Textile Dyeing
Authors: Leube Herbert , Rüttiger Wilhelm , Kühnel Gerd , Wolff Joachim , Ruppert Günther , Schmitt Michael , Heid Christian , Hückel Max , Flath Hans‐Joachim , Beckmann Wolfhard , Brossmann Rolf , Söll Manfred , Sewekow Ulrich 
Published: April 2004

AbstractThe article contains sections titled:1.History, Economic Importance1.1.Historical Dyeing Methods1.2.Economic Importance of Textile Dyeing2.Dyeing Technology2.1.General2.1.1.History2.1.2.The Field of Dyeing Technology2.1.3.Fundamental Principles of Dyeing2.1.3.1.Dyeing Systems2.1.3.2.Phases of Exhaustion Dyeing2.1.3.3.Dyeing Phase (Dyeing Kinetics)2.1.3.4.Equilibrium Phase2.1.3.5.Dye Fixation, Improvement of Colorfastness2.1.3.6.Sources of Further Process Data2.2.Batchwise Dyeing (Bath Dyeing)2.2.1.Fundamental Principles and Equipment2.2.2.Theoretical and Technical Fundamental Principles2.2.3.Circulating Machines (Stationary Goods, Circulating Liquor)2.2.3.1.Systems and Functions2.2.3.2.Loose Stock Dyeing Machines2.2.3.3.Package Dyeing Machines (Cross‐Wound Packages)2.2.3.4.Hank Dyeing Machines2.2.3.5.Beam Dyeing2.2.4.Circulating‐Goods Machines with Textile Storage (Winch Type)2.2.4.1.System and Functions2.2.4.2.The Winch Beck2.2.4.3.Jet Dyeing Machines2.2.4.4.Overflow Dyeing Machines2.2.4.5.The Air Jet (“Airflow”) Dyeing Machine2.2.5.The Dyeing Jigger2.2.5.1.Normal (Direct) Jig Dyeing2.2.5.2.Pad Jig Process2.2.6.Special Bath Dyeing Equipment2.2.6.1.Star‐Shaped Dyeing Frames2.2.6.2.Machines for Dyeing Hanks of Yarn2.2.6.3.Paddle Dyeing Machine2.2.6.4.Rotary Dyeing Machine2.2.6.5.Cabinet Dyeing2.2.6.6.Hosiery Dyeing Machines2.2.7.Automatic Control of Bath Dyeing2.2.7.1.Aims2.2.7.2.Functions of Automatic Control2.2.7.3.Equipment Requirements2.3.Continuous and Semicontinuous Dyeing2.3.1.The Principal Stages of Continuous Dyeing2.3.1.1.Dye Pickup2.3.1.2.Intermediate Drying2.3.1.3.Dye Fixation2.3.1.4.Aftertreatment of the Dyed Fabric (Finishing)2.3.2.Dyeing Plants2.3.3.Continuous Dyeing of Yarn and Fiber2.3.4.Automatic Operation of Continuous Dyeing Plants2.3.4.1.Important Process Stages and their Automation2.3.4.2.Technology of Automation2.4.Laboratory Dyeing Techniques2.4.1.Objectives2.4.2.Laboratory Dyeing2.4.2.1.Typical Laboratory Equipment2.4.2.2.Small‐Scale Production Equipment2.4.3.Laboratory Dyeing Technology2.5.Techniques of Dispensing Products used in Dyeing2.5.1.Dispensing of Dyes2.5.2.Dispensing of Dye Auxiliaries2.5.3.Dispensing of Chemicals2.5.4.Preparation of the Initial Liquor Charge and its Replenishment2.5.4.1.Batch Dyeing2.5.4.2.Continuous Dyeing2.6.Colorimetry2.6.1.Measuring Instruments2.6.2.Methods of Expressing Colorimetric Results2.6.3.Developments in Colorimetry3.Physical Properties of Textiles Important for Dyeing3.1.Classification of Textile Properties3.2.Fibers3.3.Yarns3.4.Fabrics3.5.Makeup of Textiles for Dyeing4.Dyeing of Cellulose Fibers4.1.Dyeing with Reactive Dyes4.1.1.Fundamentals4.1.2.Dyeing Techniques4.1.3.Special Processes and Development Trends4.2.Dyeing with Direct Dyes4.2.1.Applications and Properties4.2.2.Dyeing Principle4.2.3.Pretreatment of Substrates4.2.4.Dyeing Parameters4.2.5.Dyeing Techniques4.2.6.Special Processes4.2.7.Aftertreatment4.3.Dyeing with Anthraquinone Vat Dyes4.3.1.Chemistry of Vat Dyes4.3.2.Vatting4.3.3.Dye Absorption in the Exhaustion Process4.3.4.Oxidation4.3.5.Aftertreatment (“Soaping”)4.3.6.Dyeing Techniques4.4.Dyeing with Indigo4.4.1.Chemistry and Historical Development4.4.2.Dyeing Technique4.5.Dyeing with Sulfur Dyes4.5.1.Types and Mode of Reaction4.5.2.Additives to the Dye Bath4.5.3.Dyeing4.5.4.Dyeing Techniques4.5.5.Combination with Other Dye Groups4.5.6.Wastewater4.6.Dyeing with Naphtol AS Dyes4.7.Dyeing with Pigments4.8.Other Dyeing Methods4.8.1.Dyeing with Leuco Esters of Vat Dyes4.8.2.Dyeing with Mordant Dyes4.8.3.Dyeing with Acid Dyes4.8.4.Dyeing with Basic Dyes4.8.5.Dyeing with Mineral Dyes4.8.6.Dyeing with Oxidation Dyes4.8.7.Dyeing with Phthalogen Dyes4.8.8.Dyeing with Coupling and DiazotizationDyes4.9.Other Plant Fibers5.Dyeing of Wool and Silk5.1.Dyeing of Wool5.1.1.Principles5.1.2.Dye Classes and Dyeing Processes5.1.2.1.Acid Dyes5.1.2.2.Chrome Dyes5.1.2.3.1 : 1 Metal‐Complex Dyes5.1.2.4.1 : 2 Metal‐Complex Dyes5.1.2.5.Reactive Dyes ()5.1.2.6.Vat Dyes, Leuco Esters of Vat Dyes5.1.3.Technology of Dyeing5.1.4.Properties of Dyeings5.1.5.Dyeing of Wool ‐ Polyamide Blends5.2.Dyeing of Silk5.2.1.Fiber Structure and Dyeing Behavior5.2.2.Classes of Dyes5.2.3.Technology of Dyeing6.Dyeing of Polyamide Fibers6.1.Chemical Structure6.2.Supermolecular Structure6.3.Interactions Between Dye and Fiber6.4.Dyes6.4.1.Disperse Dyes6.4.2.Acid Dyes6.4.3.1 : 2 Metal‐Complex Dyes6.4.4.Reactive Dyes6.5.Technology6.6.Properties of Dyed Materials6.7.Selection of Dyes6.8.Toxicological and Physiological Aspects7.Dyeing of Polyester Fibers7.1.General7.1.1.Dyeing in Aqueous Liquor7.1.2.Thermosol Process7.2.Dyeing Processes for Polyester Fibers7.2.1.Requirements to Be Met by Dyes and Auxiliaries7.2.2.Dyeing from Aqueous Dye Baths7.2.3.Special Dyeing Processes7.2.4.Continuous and Semicontinuous Dyeing Processes7.2.5.Dyeing of Microfibers7.2.6.Dyeing of Modified Polyester Fibers7.3.Aftertreatment8.Dyeing of Cellulose Acetate8.1.Dyeing Processes for Cellulose Acetate8.2.Dyeing Processes for Cellulose Triacetate8.3.Aftertreatment, S‐Finish9.Dyeing of Acrylic (Polyacrylonitrile and Modacrylic) Fibers9.1.Economic Aspects9.2.Principles9.2.1.Disperse Dyes9.2.2.Cationic Dyes9.3.Exhaustion Process9.4.Dyeing of Special Fiber Types According to the Exhaustion Process9.5.Continuous Processes10.Dyeing of Other Synthetic Fibers10.1.Poly(Vinyl Chloride) Fibers10.2.Elastomeric Fibers10.3.Polypropylene Fibers10.4.Poly(Vinyl Alcohol) (PVA) Fibers10.5.Aramid Fibers11.Dyeing of Fiber Blends11.1.Polyester ‐ Cellulose Blends11.1.1.General Finishing Information11.1.2.Dyeing Processes11.1.2.1.Dyeing with Disperse and Vat Dyes or Appropriate Mixed Dyes11.1.2.2.Dyeing with Disperse and Reactive Dyes11.1.2.3.Dyeing of the Cellulose Component with Other Dyes11.2.Polyester ‐ Wool Blends11.2.1.Dyes11.2.2.Dyeing Processes11.2.3.Auxiliaries11.3.Polyamide ‐ Cellulose Blends11.4.Polyacrylonitrile ‐ Cellulose Blends11.5.Polyacrylonitrile ‐ Wool Blends11.6.Blends of Synthetic Fibers12.Characterization of Textile Dyes13.Testing of Colorfastness13.1.Organization13.2.Standard Test Methods13.2.1.Group A: General Principles13.2.2.Group B: Colour Fastness to Light and Weathering13.2.3.Group C: Colour Fastness to Washing and Laundering13.2.4.Group D: Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning13.2.5.Group E: Colour Fastness to Aqueous Agencies13.2.6.Group G: Colour Fastness to Atmospheric Contaminants13.2.7.Group J: Measurement of Colour and Colour Differences13.2.8.Group N: Colour Fastness to Bleaching Agencies13.2.9.Group P: Colour Fastness to Heat Treatments13.2.10.Group S: Colour Fastness to Vulcanization13.2.11.Group X: Colour Fastness to Miscellaneous Agencies13.2.12.Group Z: Colourant Characteristics14.Legal Aspects, Toxicology, and Ecology14.1.Water Consumption14.2.Legal Regulations14.3.Components of Textile Wastewater14.4.Reduction of Wastewater Load by Special Preventive Measures14.5.Special Methods of Wastewater Treatment14.6.Recycling of Water and Valuable Substances14.7.Ecotoxicology of Textile Dyes