bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Research on a natural sunscreen from Chinese herbs
Authors: HU G. , WANG X. 
Published: March 2003

SynopsisTo compare the difference in SPF values between a synthetic sunscreen and a sunscreen derived from Chinese herbs, by using optical and biological methods, we observed the effects of these sunscreens by photochemical reaction, sun protection factor (SPF) values, and UV absorption. The results showed that the synthetic sunscreen was more effective in UV absorption than the sunscreen derived from natural Chinese herbs. When they were tested biologically, it was found that the sunscreen derived from Chinese herbs was able to improve skin tonicity, as well as reduce the itching, photoerythema, squamation, burning, and reddening caused by the excessive UV radiation, while the synthetic sunscreen could not improve these conditions of the skin, and even induced some side‐effects in the skin with photoerythema. By comparing the in vivo SPF values of the two types of sunscreen, they were found to be mainly similar. The results indicate that the SPF value was related to both a photo‐reaction and a biological reaction. The sunscreen derived from natural Chinese herbs, although having low UV absorption, was able to exhibit the same SPF value as the synthetic sunscreen because of its biological effects.RésuméAfin de comparer la différence des facteurs de protection solaire (FPS) entre les filtres chimiques et les filtres naturels provenant de médicaments traditionnels chinois au niveau de la photochimie et de la biologie, nous avons observé les effets de ces deux types de filtres sur la réaction photochimique, les FPS et l'absorbant ultraviolet. En utilisant le spectophotomètre, les résultats démontent que les filtres chimiques ont un absorbant ultraviolet plus important que les filtre naturels. Avex la méthode biologique, les résultats indiquent que les filtres naturels peuvent améliorer la solidité de la peau et alléger des syndromes provoqués par l'exposition excessive au rayonnement solaire comme le prurit, l'erythème, la desquamation, le brûlé et l'ampoule, tandis que les filtres chimiques n'ont pas ces effets et ils peuvent produire des effets secondaires dans certains cas de la peau brûlée. Les FPS de ces deux types de filtres sont à peu près les mêmes. Les résultats suggèrent que les FPS des filtres lient avec les réactions chimique et biologique. L'absorbant ultraviolet des filtres naturels provenant de médicaments traditionnels chinois est moins important que celui des filtres chimiques mais les filtres naturels peuvent atteindre les mêmes FPS que les filtres chimiques grâce à leur effet bilogique. © Rapid Science Ltd. 1998
The Effects of Topical L(+) Lactic Acid and Ascorbic Acid on Skin Whitening
Authors: Smith Walter P. 
Published: March 2003

SynopsisSubjects with medium to dark skin and many exhibiting facial age spots or discolorations participated in this twelve week study to evaluate the skin whitening ability of lactic and ascorbic acid. Using clinical and biophysical test methods we observed prolonged treatment with 8.8% L(+) lactic acid resulted in no significant effects on skin pigmentation. However treatment with L(+) lactic acid supplemented with ascorbic acid (1%) did produce a whitening effect which becomes apparent after three months. These effects were demonstrated clinically by the test panelists, and trained clinicians, and with objective instrumental methods. We observed a general skin lightening and did see a modest preferential lightening of age spots with the combination of acids.
Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product
Authors: Lintner  , Peschard  
Published: March 2003

Synopsis Small, biologically active peptides (short sequences of amino acids) were first described about 40 years ago: TRH, angiotensin, vasopressin, oxytocin, bradykinin. Since then, many more peptides have been isolated from mammalian tissue and organs, and their activity investigated. Essentially, these molecules play a hormonal (messenger) role: released at one point in the body, they act at specific receptor sites at different locations in the organism. Mostly the peptides are transported from the site of release to the site of biological activity through the blood or lymphatic fluid.The use of these molecules in cosmetics does not appear obvious, as the topical application of these highly soluble, fragile and extremely expensive molecules seems inappropriate, and systemic effects (blood transport) are not desired.This paper shows that the obstacles to using highly specific, powerful peptides as ‘actives’ in cosmetic products can be overcome. Cosmetically interesting activities such as stimulation of collagen synthesis, chemotaxis, anti‐stinging effects and others, can be observed and substantiated with chemically modified peptide sequences. Long chain fatty acid conjugates improve skin penetration, specific activity and economic feasibility of these molecules. Résumé De petits peptides (séquences courtes d’acides aminés), biologiquement actifs, ont été décrits pour la première fois il y a environ 40 ans: TRH, angiotensine, vasopressine, oxytocine, bradykinine. Depuis, beaucoup d’autres peptides ont été isolés à partir de tissus et organes de mammifères, et leur activité a étéétudiée. Ces molécules jouent principalement un rôle hormonal (messager): libérées en un point de l’organisme, elles agissent en des sites récepteurs spécifiques à différents endroits de l’organisme. La plupart du temps, les peptides sont transportés du site de libération au site d’activité biologique par le sang ou le liquide lymphatique.L’utilisation de ces molécules en cosmétique ne semble pas évidente car l’application topique de ces molécules fortement solubles, fragiles et extrêmement coûteuses, semble inappropriée et les effets systémiques (transport par le sang) ne sont pas souhaités.Cet article montre que les obstacles à l’utilisation de peptides puissants, fortement spécifiques comme ‘principes actifs’ dans des produits cosmétiques peuvent être surmontés. On peut observer (et démontrer) des activités intéressantes pour la Cosmétique (stimulation de la synthèse du collagène, guérison de lésions, chimiotactisme, effets apaisants et autres) avec des séquences de peptides chimiquement modifiés (produits conjugués lipophiles à chaîne longue) lorsque les paramètres de pénétration dans la peau, d’activité spécifique et de faisabilitééconomique s’associent pour donner de nouveaux principes actifs, tant qu’aucun effet systémique ni pharmacologique (thérapeutique) n’est généré. Des exemples spécifiques de peptides concernant la peau sont donnés.
In vitro and in vivo evaluation of ellagic acid on melanogenesis inhibition
Authors: Shimogaki  , Tanaka  , Tamai  , Masuda  
Published: March 2003

Synopsis The efficacy of ellagic acid (EA), one of the naturally occurring polyphenols, in inhibiting melanogenesis was examined in vitro and in vivo. When mushroom‐derived tyrosinase, a metaloprotein containing copper, was incubated with EA, enzymatic activity tended to decrease with decreasing copper concentration. Enzyme activity partially recovered when copper was added to the inactivated enzyme. Tyrosinase activity in the B16 melanoma cells was observed to recover in a dose‐dependent manner when copper ions were added to the medium containing EA. Based on these results, EA is thought to react specifically with the copper located at the active centre of the tyrosinase molecule.Furthermore, when EA was applied for 6 weeks to brownish guinea‐pigs, which have melanocytes in their skin, at the same time as irradiating for 2 weeks with ultra‐violet light, skin pigmentation was clearly suppressed and the skin to which EA had been applied showed features similar to that of non‐irradiated skin. These areas were irradiated again when the application of EA had been completed, and skin pigmentation occurred at the former site of EA application. In similar studies with hydroquinone, re‐pigmentation did not occur on the sites at which hydroquinone (1%) had been applied. Based on the results reported here, EA is thought to suppress melanogenesis by reacting with activated melanocytes and without injuring cells. Résumé Le pouvoir inhibiteur de la melanogenese par l’acide élagique (AE), un polyphénol naturel, a étéétudiéin vitro et in vivo. Nous avons fait incuber avec l’AE la tyrosinase extraite de champignons. C’est une métallo‐protéine contenant du cuivre dont l’activité enzymatique tend à diminuer proportionnellement à la diminution de concentration en cuivre. Mais l’activité enzymatique se restaure partiellement, lorsque du cuivre est ajouté au milieu. Par ailleurs, l’activité de la tyrosinase dans des cellules de mélanome B16 s’exprime de façon dependante des ions cuivre ajoutés au milieu contenant l’AE. Sur la base de ces résultats, on peut penser que l’AE réagit de manière spécifique vis à vis du cuivre situé au centre actif de la molécule de tyrosinase.De plus, l’AE a été appliqué sur la peau de cochons d’Inde bruns durant 6 semaines. Ces animaux possèdent des mélanocytes cutanés, et suite à irradition simultanée aux UV pendant 2 semaines, la pigmentation cutanée disparait clairement. La peau sur laquelle on a appliqué l’AE montre des caractères similaires à ceux de la peau non‐irradiée. Lorsque ces surfaces furent irradiées à leur tour en fin de période d’application, on observa la re‐pigmentation de la peau à l’endroit de l’application de l’AE. Par des experiénces comparables avec de l’hydroquinone, le phénomène de re‐pigmentation aux points d’application d’hydroquinone (en solution a 1%) n’a pas été observé. A la base de ces résultats, on peut penser que l’AE inhibe la mélanogénèse par réaction avec les mélanocytes activés, sans endommager les cellules.
Evaluation of commercial herbal shampoos
Authors: Mainkar  , Jolly  
Published: March 2003

Synopsis Selecting the evaluation parameters of a shampoo is a challenging task, simply because of the multitude of both subjective and instrumental test methodologies available for this purpose. The present paper focuses on the evaluation of herbal shampoos using some of these parameters. Commonly used test protocols for foam test, detergency, etc. are discussed. The commercial herbal shampoos are evaluated on the basis of these tests. The results of these tests also give an idea about what standards should be met by a shampoo formulated in the laboratory to be comparable with the commercial shampoos. Résumé Le choix des paramètres d’évaluation d’un shampoing n’est pas une tâche aisée, tout simplement en raison de la multitude de méthodologies de tests qu’ils soient subjectifs ou instrumentaux. Cet article s’attache à l’évaluation des shampoings à base de végétaux en utilisant certains de ces paramètres. Les protocoles de tests couramment utilisés concernant la mousse, la détergence, etc., sont commentés. Les shampoings commerciaux à base de végétaux sont évalués par ces tests. Les résultats donnent aussi une appréciation des normes auxquelles devrait satisfaire un shampoing formulé en laboratoire afin d’être comparable aux shampoings commerciaux.
Formulation of natural shampoos¶
Authors: Mainkar A.R. , Jolly C.I. 
Published: March 2003

Synopsis Formulating cosmetics using completely natural raw materials is a difficult task. The challenge lies in selecting materials that can be rationally justified as ‘natural’ and formulating them into cosmetics whose functionality is comparable with their synthetic counterparts.The present paper focuses on the formulation of completely natural shampoos, their evaluation and comparison with commercial herbal shampoos. Attention is drawn to the fact that, due to the ambiguous definition of the word ‘natural’, several so‐called natural cosmetics are available in the Indian market. It is up to the cosmetic chemists themselves to promote and encourage the development and use of truly natural cosmetics. Résumé La formulation de produits cosmétiques utilisant des matières premières complètement naturelles est une tâche difficile. La difficulté réside dans le choix de matières qui peuvent rationellement être démontrées comme “naturelles” et de les formuler en produits cosmétiques dont l’utilisation est comparable à celle de leurs contreparties synthétiques.Le présent article s‘intéresse à la formulation de shampoings entièrement naturels, à leur évaluation et à la comparaison avec les shampoings végétaux du commerce. On attire l’attention sur le fait que, en raison de la définition ambiguë du mot “naturel”, plusieurs produits cosmétiques dits naturels sont disponible sur le marché Indien. C’est aux chimistes cosmétiques eux‐mê,es de promouvoir et encourager le développement et l’utlisation de produits cosmétiques réellement naturels.
In vivo and in vitro assessment of UVA protection by sunscreen formulations containing either butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane, methylene bis‐benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, or microfine ZnO
Authors: Herzog B. , Mongiat S. , Deshayes C. , Neuhaus M. , Sommer K. , Mantler A. 
Published: March 2003

SynopsisThe UVA‐attenuating properties of the three UVA filters butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane (BMDBM), methylene bis‐benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT), and microfine zinc oxide (ZnO), are compared. For this purpose persistent pigment darkening (PPD) as an in vivo method as well as different in vitro approaches like the UVA/UVB ratio, the critical wavelength, and the Australian standard have been used. For the case of the UVA/UVB ratio and the critical wavelength the behaviour was also assessed after irradiation with 10 minimal erythemal doses (MED). Sunscreen formulations were manufactured containing either one of these UVA filters or combinations of one UVA filter and a constant amount of UVB filter. The concentration of the respective UVA filter was varied. BMDBM was dissolved in the oil phase of the formulations. MBBT, which is produced as particulate organic UVA‐filter dispersion with average particle size smaller than 200 nm, was added to the aqueous phase. The microfine ZnO was incorporated into the oil phase. If no additional UVB filters were present, UVA/UVB ratio and critical wavelength stayed almost constant, independent of UVA‐filter content. With constant levels of additional UVB filters these parameters increased with UVA‐filter concentration. In contrast to the behaviour of the UVA/UVB ratio, which appeared to be a sensitive measure for the UVA protection in relation to UVB protection in almost the whole ranges of UVA‐filter concentrations, the critical wavelength approached saturation already at low UVA‐filter levels. The UVA‐protection factors (UVA‐PF) obtained from the in vivo studies increased with the concentration of the UVA filter in the formulations. Formulations, which showed UVA‐PFs ≥ 4 in most cases met also the conditions of the Australian Standard. An irradiation dose of 2.5 kJ m−2 (10 MED) induced significant decreases of UVA/UVB ratio or critical wavelength only with some BMDBM formulations, indicating a loss of UVA protection in those cases.
Does physical activity prevent weight gain – a systematic review
Authors: Fogelholm M. , Kukkonen‐Harjula K. 
Published: March 2003

SummaryThis paper is a systematic review of research data on associations between physical activity and weight gain, with or without prior weight reduction. The selected studies were restricted to Caucasian (white) adults. Most studies with data on physical activity collected at follow‐up, found an inverse association between physical activity and long‐term weight gain. This finding was present in studies both with and without prior weight reduction. Prospective studies with physical activity measured at baseline, and randomized weight reduction interventions, gave inconsistent results regarding the effects of increased physical activity on weight change. The weighted mean weight regain in randomized studies with or without exercise training was 0.28 and 0.33 kg/month, respectively. Based on observational studies, it seemed that an actual increase in energy expenditure of physical activity of approximately 6300–8400 kJ/week (1500–2000 kcal/week) is associated with improved weight maintenance. This is more than was prescribed in most randomized trials, and certainly more than the participants actually achieved. Adherence to a prescribed exercise programme remains a big challenge. Before new methods to improve exercise adherence are found, the role of prescribed physical activity in prevention of weight gain remains modest.
Biological determinants of spontaneous physical activity
Authors: Thorburn A. W. , Proietto J. 
Published: March 2003

SummaryA decline in daily physical activity levels is clearly a major factor contributing to the current obesity epidemic affecting both developed and developing countries in the world. This escalating problem is associated with increased morbidity and mortality and reduced psychosocial health. Thus, increasing physical activity has become the strategy of choice in public health strategies to prevent obesity. Efforts to improve levels of physical activity in the population rely upon an accurate understanding of the determinants of physical activity. Most research has focused on environmental and social influences, while the potential for physical activity to be controlled by intrinsic biological processes has been largely overlooked. This review presents some of the compelling and diverse evidence that has emerged recently showing that physical activity energy expenditure is a critical factor in both the successful regulation of energy balance in normal individuals, as well as the abnormal regulation of energy balance that characterizes obesity. Although the metabolic and genetic factors involved in these regulatory processes remain mostly unidentified, some novel discoveries have been made in this area recently and these are described within this review.
The peripheral sympathetic nervous system in human obesity
Authors: Baak M. A. van 
Published: March 2003

SummaryThe peripheral sympathetic nervous system is a key factor in the regulation of energy balance in humans. Differences in sympathetic nervous system activity may contribute to variations in 24 h energy expenditure between individuals. β‐Adrenoceptors play a more important role than α‐adrenoceptors in this regulation. The involvement of both β1‐and β2‐adrenoceptor subtypes has been demonstrated, the role of the β3‐adrenoceptor subtype is not yet clear. Normal or increased levels of sympathetic nervous system activity and reduced reactivity appear to be present in established obesity. Furthermore, the sensitivity for β‐adrenoceptor stimulation is impaired in obesity. The blunted reactivity and sensitivity may contribute to the maintenance of the obese state. There are data to suggest that they may also play a role in the aetiology of obesity, because the impairments often remain after weight reduction. Furthermore, a negative correlation between baseline sympathetic nervous system activity and weight gain during follow‐up has been found in Pima Indians. Recently, genetic evidence about the involvement of adrenoceptors in obesity has become available. Although the results of association and linkage studies on polymorphisms in the β2‐, β3‐ and α2‐adrenoceptor genes are inconsistent, the functional correlates of some of these polymorphisms (changes in agonist‐promoted down‐regulation, protein expression levels, lipolytic sensitivity, basal metabolic rate, sympathetic nervous system activity) suggest that they may be important in the aetiology of obesity.
Obesity and health‐related quality of life
Authors: Fontaine K. R. , Barofsky I. 
Published: March 2003

SummaryAlthough it is well documented that obesity is strongly associated with morbidity and mortality, less is known about the impact of obesity on functional status and health‐related quality of life (HRQL). However, in recent years research has been conducted to estimate the impact of obesity on HRQL, and to determine the effects of weight reduction on HRQL. The majority of published studies indicate that obesity impairs HRQL, and that higher degrees of obesity are associated with greater impairment. Obesity‐associated decrements on HRQL tend to be most pronounced on physical domains of functioning. Studies of the effect of obesity surgery among morbidly obese patients indicate that this procedure produces significant and sustained improvements in the majority of HRQL indices; among mild‐to‐moderately obese persons, modest weight reduction derived from lifestyle modification also appears to improve HRQL, at least in the short term. Additional research is needed to (1) further characterize the effect that obesity has on HRQL; (2) estimate the short‐ and long‐term effects of various methods of weight reduction (e.g. surgery, lifestyle modification) on HRQL; (3) improve both the conceptualization and measurement of HRQL to incorporate the personal preferences and values of the patient; and (4) develop ways to enhance and sustain positive changes in HRQL, even if weight maintenance is elusive.
The importance of physical activity in the prevention of overweight and obesity in childhood: a review and an opinion
Authors: Steinbeck K. S. 
Published: March 2003

SummaryThe prevalence of childhood obesity is increasing and there are a number of theoretical reasons as to why intervention may be more effective in childhood. There are certain risk times for the development of obesity in childhood, which provide a basis for targeted intervention. In addition, tracking data supports the persistence of obesity, at least in later childhood, as well as cardiovascular risk factors. Physical activity is the discretionary component of energy expenditure and there is evidence that falling levels of physical activity are contributing to the obesity epidemic. Physical activity in children is related to developmental stage, is reduced with increasing age and is influenced by parental physical activity. While there is debate about the immediate health benefits of physical activity to children, there are data to support that lower physical activity levels and sedentary behaviours are associated with a higher prevalence of obesity in children. Physical activity is an accepted strategy in the treatment of established obesity (tertiary prevention). The role of physical activity in the prevention of obesity (primary and secondary prevention) is less clear. However a number of recent school‐based interventions directed at either increasing physical activity and/or decreasing sedentary behaviours, have shown encouraging results. On balance, increasing physical activity in children is an attractive and non‐restrictive approach to obesity prevention. To adopt this approach requires the support and involvement of many community sectors other than health.
Quality of life and obesity
Authors: Kolotkin R. L. , Meter K. , Williams G. R. 
Published: March 2003

AbstractInterest in the quality of life of patients with different diseases continues to grow. Recent years have witnessed a dramatic rise in the prevalence of obesity worldwide, stimulating interest in the health and quality of life consequences of this phenomenon. The body of research on the quality of life of obese individuals has grown to a point that a review of this literature is warranted. Numerous studies have demonstrated that obese persons experience significant impairments in quality of life as a result of their obesity, with greater impairments associated with greater degrees of obesity. Weight loss has been shown to improve quality of life in obese persons undergoing a variety of treatments. Further research is needed to clarify whether quality of life differs among subsets of obese persons. Until recently, there has been little standardization of quality of life measures in obesity. The SF‐36 has been used in a number of studies of obese persons. Several obesity‐specific instruments have also been developed and have shown great promise. The quality of life of obese individuals is an important issue that should be included in weight management treatment and research.