bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Effects of Roller Ginning and Saw Ginning on Pima S-1 Cotton
Authors: Brown John J. , Howell Nathaniel A. , Ruppenicker George F. 
Published: March 2008

A pilot plant evaluation was made to compare the effects of roller ginning and saw ginning on the fiber, yarn, and fabric properties and processing performance of Pima S-1 cotton. Combed and carded yarns made from roller- and saw-ginned cotton and sewing thread and fabric made from combed lots of each stock were evaluated. The fabrics were compared in the grey and after finishing (singeing, mercerization, scouring, bleaching, dyeing, and Sanforize treating). It was found that, within the limits of this study, the general processing efficiency of the roller-ginned cotton was better than that of the saw-ginned cotton. The method of ginning had no appreriable effect on the strength, uniformity, or elongation at break of combed yarns, but carded yarns spun from roller-ginned cotton were significantly stronger than those spun from saw-ginned stock. Combed yarns spun from the roller- ginned cotton were better in appearance than those spun from the saw-ginned stock. There were no significant differences in the physical properties of sewing thread pro duced from combed saw- or roller-ginned cotton. Fabrics produced from combed cotton ginned by both methods were approximately equal in tearing strength, but the saw-ginned cotton produced fabric that, in some cases, had a lower elongation and breaking strength. There were no significant differences in abrasion resistance between the fabrics before finishing, but the results for abrasion resistance of the finished fabrics were inconclusive. The fabric woven from the saw-ginned cotton contained consider ably more neps than that woven from the roller-ginned cotton. Since this type of cotton is generally used for the production of fine quality yarns and fabrics, it was concluded that saw-ginned extra long staple cottons would not be suitable for these uses. Also, due to the greater amount of waste during processing and poorer spinning performance of the saw-ginned cotton, processing costs would be higher and possibly offset any savings in ginning costs.
Properties of Fabrics Produced from Three Extra Long Staple Cottons
Authors: Ruppenicker George F. , Brown John J. 
Published: March 2008

Results are reported of a comparative evaluation of the properties of fabrics produced from the American-Egyptian Pima S-1, Egyptian Karnak, and a high strength Upland cotton, Hybrid Strain 330. Relationships of some fiber and yarn properties to fabric properties are shown. The reactions of fabrics woven from these cottons to chemical finishing treatments (mercerization, scouring, bleaching, and dyeing) are also discussed. In general, it was found that the Pima S-1 cotton produced fabrics which were ap proximately equal in breaking and tearing strength to those made from Hybrid Strain 330 cotton and which were stronger than those made from Karnak. Grey fabrics made from Pima S-1 had higher elongation, greater resistance to flex abrasion, and better draping qualities than those made from the other two cottons. The finishing treat-- ments had varied effects on the fabrics, but in most cases those made from Pima S-1 re mained equal to or better than those made from the other cottons in the properties measured. Fiber and yarn properties were closely related to fabric properties.
The Mechanism of Pilling
Authors: Gintis Daniel , Mead Edward J. 
Published: March 2008

Studies of the mechanism of pilling have demonstrated that pilling propensity is determined by the rates of fuzz formation, entanglement, and pill wearoff. Motion pictures of fabrics subjected to an abrading action showed that the abradant acted on exposed fiber sections to pull loops which then opened to form fuzz. A pill formed quickly when the fuzz density reached a critical level. The fibers were then twisted and entangled, gradually involving nearby fibers. As the abrading action continued, pills wore away. Techniques were developed which permitted independent quantitative study of each of these three phenomena. The physical properties of several textile fibers were correlated with their behavior in these tests. Interfiber friction and bending stiffness were important factors in fuzz formation. Entanglement tendency was correlated with denier, cross-sectional shape, and bending stiffness. Pill wearoff was determined by abrasion resistance and tenacity. The general applicability of this mechanism has been demonstrated with modified polyester fibers. The reduced pitting tendency of ribbon staple fibers was attributed to a directional bending which reduced their entanglement tendency. Heat-setting increased bending stiffness, which reduced pilling by lowering fuzzing tendency. The most pronounced effect on pilling tendency of polyester fibers was obtained by changes in abrasion resistance, which affected the rate of pill wearoff.
Partially Carboxymethylated Cotton as an Intermediate for Further Chemical Modification
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Reid J. David , Fenner Terrence W. , Mayne Ruth Y. 
Published: March 2008

Cotton can be etherified by treatment with chloroacetic acid and sodium hydroxide solution. The product, a partially carboxymethylated cotton, which retains the original fibrous nature of the cotton, has a number of properties valuable for textile and other uses. In addition, the etherified cotton bears two reactive functional groups—hydroxyl and carboxyl—capable of further chemical modification. The rate and extent of many reactions with the etherified cotton are greater than with native cotton similarly treated. Further modifications of this cotton derivative are discussed. Among these are salt formation for the preparation of bactericidal and fungistatic finishes, reactions for the introduction of cyanoethyl, carboxyethyl, and graft polyester groups, reaction with epoxy and aziridinyl compounds, and oxidation for the preparation of alkali-soluble textile products.
A Study of the Relationship Between Dye Absorption and Cotton Fiber Properties at Equilibrium
Authors: Pal P.N. , Esteve Ramon M. 
Published: March 2008

The relation between cotton fiber properties and dye absorption at equilibrium has been studied for nine cotton samples representing a large range of fiber properties. The absorption was studied both for mercerized and unmercerized cotton samples. A relationship was found to exist between dye absorption at equilibrium and the Micronaire and maturity of American Upland type cotton. A linear relationship was found to exist between maturity and dye absorption at equilibrium. The barium hydroxide absorption also was determined ; similar results were obtained.
The Effect of Certain Variables in Warp Sizing on Weavability
Authors: Saffer Henry W. , Rutherford Henry A. , Cates David M. 
Published: March 2008

The effect of certain variables (size add-on, degree of polymerization of size, and temperature of application) in sizing was determined in relation to simulated weaving for a cotton yarn sized with poly(ethylene oxide). Increasing the size add-on decreased the tendency of the sized yarns to shed fibers and size. The effect of resin DP varied with size add-on. At low add-ons an increase in DP was accompanied by an improvement in weavability which was attributed to the concomitant increase in toughness of the resin; after very high values of DP were reached, however, weaving became unsatisfactory, apparently because of poor anchoring of resin to yarn. At high add-ons an increase in resin DP resulted in improved weaving performance for all ranges of DP, and this effect was attributed both to the increase in toughness of the resin film and to the increase in film coverage of the yarn surface and in film thickness achieved at high add-ons. As the temperature of application was raised, penetration of size through yarn increased. This resulted in poor weavability at low DP's; at high DP's, however, weavability was improved, apparently because the increase in temperature permitted better anchoring of size to yarn.
Cord Stresses in Inflated Tires
Authors: Lauterbachl Herbert G. , Ames William F. 
Published: March 2008

In order to calculate the stresses in the cords of an inflated tire, membrane theory is applied to the cord body. The equation describing the tire surface in terms of tire con struction parameters and cord properties has been given in the literature, but no solu tions have been reported, probably due to its complexity. A solution of this equation, obtained by numerical techniques on a digital electronic computer, is presented in this paper. It is shown how this equation is combined with the equilibrium equations of the surface and how the force components in the principal directions are determined and the cord stresses calculated. The cord stresses in inflated tires are nonuniform, decreas ing from crown to bead. The deformation of a simple cord network is considered, and it is shown how the cord stretch during tire expansion can be determined. It is found that the cord undergoes nonuniform stretch and shrinkage from crown to bead. These calcuations have been confirmed by experimental x-ray measurements on metal-shadowed cord. It is sug gested that the calculated and observed nonuniform cord stretch and shrinkage during tire expansion and curing are a direct result of the nonuniform cord tension.
Spectrophotometric Measurement of Color in Wool Fabrics
Authors: Lennox F.G. 
Published: March 2008

A method is described for measuring the differential absorption spectra of pale- colored fine-wool fabrics in the visible and ultraviolet regions. A strip of the fabric is immersed in a liquid having a refractive index close to that of wool and compared in an ultraviolet spectrophotometer with a similarly immersed uncolored or bleached strip of the same fabric. The method is applied to the measurement of the absorption spectra of normal un bleached wool fabrics and to fabrics which have been yellowed either by heating at 97° C. in an aqueous buffer solution at pH 8 or by exposure to ultraviolet irradiation. Fabrics which have been dyed or treated with reagents producing colored derivatives of particular amino acid residues in the wool proteins have also been tested. Sizing and finishing agents in the fabric which absorb in the visible or ultraviolet regions are detected by the method. When wool is yellowed by heating or exposing to ultraviolet irradiation, its absorp tion increases far more in the ultraviolet region of the spectrum, especially at 3100-3300 Å, than in the visible region above 3900 A.
The Dispersion of Wool Protein by Thiols in Acid Solution
Authors: Savige W.E. 
Published: March 2008

Wool suffers a loss in weight of up to 50% in 24 hr. on treatment at 50-60° C. with a salt-free aqueous solution of a particular thiol containing sufficient selected acid to bring the pH value to approximately 2. The extent of extraction depends on a number of factors such as temperature, time, pH. and the nature or concentration of thiol, acid, and any salt or other reagent which may be present. The dispersed keratin appears to undergo no appreciable chemical degradation apart from reductive fission of the disulfide bonds of the cystine residues. Apart from a small amount of residue consisting of cell membranes. wool is com pletely solubilized by treatment with concentrated aqueous thioglycollic acid at 60° C. in the absence of salts.
The Action of Nitric and Hydrochloric Acids on Wool with Particular Reference to Supercontraction of the Fibers
Authors: Crewther W.G. , Dowling L.M. 
Published: March 2008

Treatment of wool with 40% (wt./wt.) HNO3 at 0-30° C. for periods up to 18 hr. causes a decrease in sulfhydryl, disulfide, and tyrosine contents and an increase in free amino groups. An equivalent concentration of HCl under similar conditions causes an increase in free amino groups and, with the more severe treatments, a decrease in tyrosine content and an increase in disulfide content as estimated by the Shinohara method. Alkali solubility and trypsin digestibility are greatly increased by the acid treatments; the solubility in urea/bisulfite solution first decreases, then increases with increasing time of treatment. Both acids cause loss of weight of the samples treated for 18 hr. at 30° C. Apart from a small increase in the initial rate, the kinetics of supercontraction of single fibers in solutions containing 1 N HCl and 4 M LiBr are not greatly changed by acid treatment, nor is the level of the final contraction greatly altered. In 6 M LiBr at pH ca. 6 the nitrated fibers contract very rapidly by 10-15% ; the contraction is then greatly retarded until a slow second stage of contraction develops. With HCl-treated fibers the contraction is again slightly accelerated initially and later retarded, but the changes are smaller and the division into two stages of contraction less apparent. Treat ment with HNO3 causes the fibers to contract more rapidly at all levels of contraction in 4 M LiBr at pH ca. 8, and with the more severe treatments, the initial contraction is followed by a period of elongation and a second slow contraction. On the other hand, HCl-treated fibers contract rapidly to the final level of contraction, but this may be very small. With the more severe treatments in HCl, the initial contraction is followed by elongation to a length approximating the original. The kinetics of supercontraction are discussed in terms of chemical and configurational changes in the fibers.
The Physical State of Direct Dyes in Viscose and its Influence on Lightfastness
Authors: Weissbein Leonard , Coven Glenn E. 
Published: March 2008

As part of a study on the factors determining the lightfastness of dyes on cellulosic materials, a means of examining the physical state of direct dyes in viscose was developed which makes use of dyed ultrathin films as primary specimens in the electron microscope. When this method was used to examine the physical state of two direct dyes in viscose, their physical state was found to differ markedly. Aggregates of one dye could not be detected in the viscose films at a resolution limit of about 30 Å, whereas aggre gates of the other dye were plainly visible in viscose films dyed under the same conditions. The apparently unaggregated dye exhibited considerably poorer lightfastness on rayon than the one which aggregated in viscose. The results suggest the use of this method of study to investigate the influence of the physical state of direct dyes in viscose on their lightfastness.
Weathering and the Resulting Chemical Changes in Some South African Merino Wools
Authors: Louw D.F. 
Published: March 2008

Differences in chemical contposition between root, middle, and tip sections of a num ber of normal crimped and of copper-deficient steely South African Merino wools have been investigated, as well as the influence of these differences on such factors as acid dye absorption, alkali solubility, and urea-bisulfite sotuhitity. In the case of normal wools the loss in cystine and tryptophan and increase in cysteic acid reveal the extent of hydrolytic and oxidative weathering damage and explain subsequent changes in solubility and dye absorption. The conclusion is reached that copper-deficiency retards fiber keratinization which can, however, continue during aging and weathering of steely wools on the animal's back, resulting in increased cross-linking. Variations in amino acid content of root and tip sections of normal and steely wools have been found.
Variations in the Equilibrium Weight of Wool at Zero Humidity
Authors: Watt I.C. , Kennett R.H. 
Published: March 2008

The equilibrium weight of a wool sample obtained on desorption in vacuo is de pendent on the previous treatment of the sample with respect to water. Exposure to < 5% RH has no effect on the subsequent equilibrium weight in vacuo, but exposure to intermediate relative humiclities causes an increased equilibrium weight in vacuo on subsequent desorption. The maximum rate of increase occurs on exposure to approxi mately 50% RH. Exposure to high relative humidities (near 100%) does not cause an increase in the subsequent equilibrium weight in vacuo. Initially the increase of equilibrium weight in vacuo is linearly dependent on the time of exposure to a particular relative humidity. Increases are less marked at higher temperatures (> 65° C.). Increases of the equilibrium weight in vacuo can be removed by saturation with liquid water or water vapor prior to desorption.
Effects of Gamma, High-Energy Electron, and Thermal Neutron Radiations on the Fibrillar Structure of Cotton Fibers
Authors: Porter Blanche R. , Tripp Verne W. , deGruy Ines V. , Rollins Mary L. 
Published: March 2008

Changes in the structure of cotton fibers after expesure to gamma, high-energy electron, and thermal neutron radiations, in various ambient atmospheres, were evaluated by the techniques of optical and electron microscopy. Radiation exposures evaluated were: gamma rays, 105 to 4 × 108 r.; 2-Mev electrons, 5 × 104 to 108 rep; integrated thermal neutron fluxes, 5 × 1014 to 1017 nvt. Changes in the physical and chemical properties of similarly irradiated fibers have been, or are to be, reported in other pub lications. All irradiated, unmodified cottons could be differentiated from unexposed cottons by optical microscopical observations of samples stained in Nile Blue Sulfate. Gamma ray and electron exposed samples differed from unexposed fibers. in swelling behavior in 0.2 M ( in Cu) cupriethylenediamine hydroxide, but thermal-neutron-irradiated cotton differed from the control only after exposure to an integrated flux of 1017 nvt. Electron micrographs of the fibrillation patterns exhibited by fibers exposed to gamma and electron radiation doses of 5 X 106 to 108 r. or rep on beating in water in a Waring Blender showed the formation of increasingly smaller fragments of samples. Some shortening of fibrils and an increase in number of broken ends of microfibrils were seen in neutron-irradiated cotton exposed to 10" nvt; at lower integrated neutron fluxes, fibrillation was unchanged. No distinct differences were found in microscopical tests between gamma and electron irradiated fibers or between gamma-exposed fibers irradiated in oxygen and nitrogen. At doses of 4 × 10" r. of gamma rays, the trend toward smaller fragments reversed and short chunks of material were observed. Varying amounts of degradation were observed in modified cottons after irradiation. Smaller fragments were observed in cottons modified to change and reduce the total crystalline cellulose; the fibrillation of acrylonitrile-treated cotton appeared unchanged, but irradiation produced a decrease in the size of fragments of dichloropropanol- and dimethylol cyclic ethyleneurea-modified samples.
Some Principles of Nonwoven Fabrics1
Authors: Backer Stanley , Petterson Dewitt R. 
Published: March 2008

The authors compare the mechanical behavior of woven and nonwoven fabrics. They outline the principal mechanisms by which woven cloths deform and recover in manufacture and in end usage. They attempt to formulate a parallel sequence of events in the distortion process for nonwovens and to show how these actions influence the ability of nonwovens to fit smoothty on three-dimensionally curved surfaces, to hang and drape freely, and to recover from bends and tensile extension. Some results of a research program recently conducted at M.I.T. on nonwovens are presented. This study is related to the directional tensile behavior of nonwoven fabrics and demonstrates how knowledge of fiber properties and web structure can be used effectively to predict web behavior. Fiber behavior measured on the Instron provide the material constants necessary for insertion in derived analytical expressions , for nonwoven fabric stiffness and contraction ratios. Predicted nonwoven behavior shows reasonable agreement with experimental measurements on the particular materials studied.
Comparative Wool Scouring Studies
Authors: Williams V.A. 
Published: March 2008

In laboratory trials on samples from individual fleeces solvent degreasing has shown a higher yield than aqueous alkaline scouring. Differences of 0.5% to 1.4% of clean dry fiber are found when solvent degreasing is compared with traditional soap-soda scouring. Evidence is presented showing that the difference in yield is due to dissolution of oxidized protein material from the tip portion of the wool fiber by hot alkaline scouring solutions. Regain of scoured wool at standard conditions is found to vary with the method of cleaning. Wool cleaned by solvent or neutral detergent has a lower regain than that from alkaline scouring.
Measurement of the Modulus of Dynamic Elasticity of Staple Fibers
Authors: Weyland H.G. 
Published: March 2008

A description is given of an apparatus with the aid of which the modulus of dynamic elasticity of fibers can be determined at about 1000 cycles/sec. as a function of the strain. In principle the dynamic elasticity constant of the fiber is determined by measuring the resonance frequency of a cantilever spring which is loaded with the fiber. The results of measurements on various types of natural, regenerated, and synthetic fibers are given.
Softness of Cotton Yarns as Affected by Fiber and Yarn Properties
Authors: Honold Edith , Grant James N. 
Published: March 2008

Yarn softness is evaluated quantitatively as the percent increase in yarn width under a definite lateral force. Single-yarn softness decreases with twist and increases with yarn number and fiber maturity. With the above parameters constant, softness has no relation to fiber linear density. An equation is developed for estimating single-yarn softness from yarn diameter and twist and from fiber maturity. The softness of 2-ply yarns as related to the component single yarns is discussed. For modified cottons, in creased fiber friction apparently contributes to the decrease in yarn softness. An equation is developed to estimate the single-yarn diameter from yarn number and twist multiplier. The possibility that the diameter of the 2-ply yarn is related mathematically to the ply yarn twist multiplier and to the softness of the original unplied single yam is discussed.
Relaxation Shrinkage of Wool Fabrics: Its Occur rence in Worsteds and Dependence upon Cloth Structure
Authors: Baird K. 
Published: March 2008

Relaxation shrinkage measurements have been made on seven worsted fabric struc tures from five different mills. It appears that the warp shrinkages differ significantly between mills and also between structures; by contrast no regular variation was dis cerned for the weft shrinkages. Examination of the load-extension curves of these fabrics has shown big differences in the extensions which occur in the warp direction at loads typical of those found in finishing machines. A linear relationship between relaxation shrinkage and fabric ex tensibility in the warp direction is shown to hold for all mills.