bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
TCL - A FORTRAN-based pointer threaded command language for simulation
Authors: Barkakati Nabajyoti 
Published: March 2007

An interactive threaded command language (TCL) was developed for design and simulation applications. The FORTRAN imple mentation of this language emphasizes a basic approach toward developing simulation software rather then the specific command language. TCL incorporates the extensibility and interactive features of threaded interpretive languages such as FORTH and STOIC, but it allows use of all the flexible data structures and numerical capabilities of FORTRAN 77. The approach presented here can easily be adapted to develop other higher level languages tailored to specific applications. Another interesting feature, within a FORTRAN 77 program, is the handling of various display terminals through an internal data structure and an ASCII text file that contains the terminal's "characteristics".
The Application of Resin Finishes to Cotton Garments Using Drycleaning Plant Equipment1
Authors: Graham Robert T. , Loibl Fred , Wiebush Joseph R. 
Published: March 2007

Preliminary results are given from a study of the application of a resin finish to cotton garments using drycleaning plant equipment. Cotton fabric swatches of various constructions, including print cloth, denim, sateen, cord, broadctoth. gingham, corduroy, and suiting materials were used. The objective of the work is to impart wrinkle resistance and desirable permanent creases to cotton garments. A tentative procedure for the resin treatment has been devised which has proven effective on various weaves and weights of cotton fabrics. The cost of application of the resin finish to cotton cord suits in a drycleaning plant has been estimated.
Cotton Cross-Linked at Various Degrees of Fiber Swelling
Authors: Reeves Wilson A. , Perkins Rita M. , Chance Leon H. 
Published: March 2007

Wet and dry density measurements were made on a wide variety of wash-and-wear cotton fabrics and some interpretations of these values are given. Methylenated cotton was selected for more extensive fundamental study because of the simplicity of the formaldehyde cross link and the fact that formaldehyde can be reacted with cotton under greatly different conditions. Formaldehyde was used to cross link cotton print cloth at various degrees of fiber swelling by reacting in systems ranging from completely aqueous to anhydrous using hydrochloric acid as catalyst. The amount of water in the system at the time of reaction is related to the extent of fiber swotting. The extent of swelling at the time of cross-linking and the extent of cross-linking influence wet density, which may be considered to be a measure of the water swellability of a fiber. Cross-linking tends to fix or stabilize a fiber in a given state of swelling: the stabilization is more effec tive when the cross-linking is done in nearly anhydrous systems. The state of swelling at the time of cross-linking modifies moisture regain, water of imbibition, dyeabitity, and wet and dry wrinkle recovery. There seems to be an optimum water content in the reaction system at the time of cross-linking for maximum dry and wet wrinkle recovery. As the water content in the reaction system is increased beyond the optimum, the amount of dry wrinkle recovery becomes much less than wet wrinkle recovery. This phenomenon leads to vastly different wash-and-wear ratings of fabric. A mechanism is presented diagrammatically to explain wet and dry wrinkle recovery. The mechanism is based upon hydrogen-bond cross links, covalent-bond cross links, and the position of the two types of cross links.
Part III: Shearing and Buckling of Various Commercial Fabrics
Authors: Lindberg Joel , Behre Bengt , Dahlberg Bengt 
Published: March 2007

Load-deformation curves obtained by the methods for shearing and buckling de scribed in Part I and II are analyzed and discussed. Parameters obtained from these curves are given for 66 commercial fabrics covering an extreme range. Different fabrics show widely different values for the parameters obtained from both shearing and buck ling curves. It is further shown that there exist close relationships between simple de formations like shearing and plane buckling and complex deformations like buckling of corrugated fabric shells. The formability of a fabric is defined as the maximum com pression a fabric can take up before it buckles, given a certain geometric arrangement. The formability parity determines the tailorability and the crease pattern of fabrics. The formability is dependent on fabric direction, and it is shown that the integrated formability should be related to the product of buckling load and shear angle. A the oretical analysis of formability is given, and it is shown that it can be expressed as the product of an anisotropy ratio and the square of the fabric thickness. It is further shown that the shell buckling load depends on both the plane buckling load and the shear angle, in such a way that increasing shear angle leads to decreasing shell buckling load. It is shown that combination of high formability and low shell buckling load generally is attained by combining relatively high thickness with low bending modulus. It is also shown that wool fabrics generally have this combination of properties. A fabric map is given for all the commercial fabrics. Each fabric has a certain position on the map dependent on bending stiffness (which is closely related to buckling load) and shear angle. Attention is given to the relation between creasing behavior of fabrics and fabric prop erties. There is a certain relation between crease recovery angle and formability and a good relation between this angle and the noncyclical energy loss in shell buckling. The hypothesis that recovery properties depend mainly on the interaction within the fabric between frictional forces and elastic forces of the fibers is put forward. The energy loss following any fabric deformation depends mainly on friction. The permanent de formation is probably due to the fact that the elastic forces of the fibers cannot overcome the friction. By means of a rheological model it is shown how friction and fiber stiff ness may interact in a fabric. It is shown that the stiffness value should be that ob tained at infinitely slow loading of the fiber.
Studies in Adsorption
Authors: Giles Charles H. 
Published: March 2007

Recent quantitative data for adsorption of disperse dyes on cellulose acetates and the relations between adsorption and dye structure are considered. The dye probably enters the fiber partly in monodisperse and partly in associated form, and penetrates between the fiber chains in regions inaccessible to water. This type of adsorption produces the characteristic linear adsorption isotherms. Several properties of the dye molecule determine the maximum adsorption of dye. Size. The smaller the molecule the easier it can penetrate into the fiber structure, hence the higher the maximum adsorption. Number of hydrogen donor atoms. The more donor atoms there are the higher is the adsorption, in certain cases; the dye forms —OH... and —NH... bonds with the fiber. Number of hydrogen acceptor atoms. The dye forms —CH...O, —CH...N, and —CH...Cl bonds with the CH8 groups of the acetyl residues in the fiber.' Thus, the —CH...C1 bond between ethyl acetate and chlorobenzene in aqueous ethanol solution has an energy of about —3 kcal./mole and chlorobenzene itself is strongly adsorbed by cellulose triacetate from this solvent. In some cases adsorption rises with the number of acceptor atoms; in some cases it falls because of opposing electronic effects of other substituent groups. Steric effects. Functionality. There is a tendency for wide spacing (e.g. 1:4 disub stitution) of bonding atoms to reduce adsorption, probably by promoting dye-dye asso ciation rather than dye-substrate association. Nylon and polyethylene terephthalate fibers appear to adsorb by a similar mechanism, polyethylene terephthalate showing additional (aromatic nucleus) dye-fiber association.
Studies of High Fastness to Light in Coloring Matters in Hydrophilic Substrates
Authors: Giles Charles H. , Baxter George , Rahman Syed M. K. 
Published: March 2007

A variety of dyes of high lightfastness, vis., metal-complex and mordanted dyes on protein and cellulosic substrates, basic dye lakes, and reactive dyes, on cellulose, have been examined by fading-rate and CF (characteristic fastness) measurements. Ap parently in all cases the dye is highly aggregated. Normally with water-soluble dyes lightfastness improves with rise in concentration ; theoretically this should not occur with pigments applied in substance, but in practice it does do so. The cause is shown to be aggregation of particles by capillary attraction before the fluid matrix sets to a solid. It is shown that, on account of the relation between the association of a dye and its absorption spectrum, fading may tend to cause a reddening of shade of water-soluble dyes, and a blueing of water-insoluble ones. The heat of illumination can break down dye aggregates and thus cause an apparent rise in depth of color. This effect, which occasionally masks fading in the early stages. is sometimes favored by dry conditions. The accelerated fading produced by rise in atmospheric humidity is due in some cases partly to the absence of this compensating factor ; but it is also probably due to the mass action effect of an increase in concentration of the moisture that enters into the fading reaction.
Response of Cottons to Chemical Treatments
Authors: Rebenfeld L. 
Published: March 2007

Single fibers from six cottons were subjected to a resin finishing treatment during which the tension on each fiber was carefully controlled and systematically varied. It was observed that the changes in mechanical properties resulting from the treatment were highly dependent upon the tension exerted on each fiber during the treatment. Treatments at high tensions resulted in greater resilience increases and lower strength losses than corresponding treatments at low tensions. The six cottons responded differently to the variations in tension during the treat ment, and this differential response was related to fibrillar orientation as estimated by x-ray angle.
The Effect of Relative Humidity on the Crease Recovery of Some Modified Rayon and Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Gill Robert A. , Steele Richard 
Published: March 2007

The changes in crease recovery and water absorption of untreated and modified rayon and cotton fabrics have been studied as a function of relative humidity at 25° C. The crease recovery of rayon was found to be very dependent on relative humidity and water content whereas that of cotton was almost independent. The effects of "dry"-state and "wet"-state cross-linking and other special treatments on the crease-recovery-water- content relationships were studied. All of the modified fabrics exhibited a deep minimum in crease recovery, which is attributed to the glass transition of the fibers. The minimum occurs at the water content which lowers the T, of cellulose to 25° C, the temperature of the experiment. This water content is also marked by a minimum in fiber resiliency. The change in the crease-recovery-humidity relationship produced by cross-linking gen erally parallels the change produced in the corresponding fiber resiliency relation, thereby supporting the interdependency of fiber resiliency and fabric crease recovery.The rate of crease recovery up to 5-min recovery time was determined for all the fabrics at different humidities. Over this time range, the recovery data were linearly related to log time. Although no minimum in crease recovery could be discerned for untreated rayon and cotton fabrics, the glass transition point was marked by a maximum in recovery rate.
Accessibility and Lateral Order Distribution of the Cellulose in the Developing Cotton Fiber1
Authors: Nelson Mary L. , Mares T. 
Published: March 2007

Cotton fibers from bolls harvested at 5-day intervals beginning at 20 days after flowering and ending at 50 days ( when the bolls had opened on the plant) 'were preserved in three ways for study in the never-dned state. Preservation was accom plished in 70% aqueous ethanol, 50% aqueous dioxane, and by freezing. Measurements of iodine sorption, red-green ("differential") dye uptake, and liquid-phase deuteration rehydrogenation gave different kinds of estimates of accessibility. These data were interpreted as indicating a relatively open structure during the 20- to 30-day period of growth, and a consolidation of the cellulosic component of the cell wall during the subsequent period of wall-thickening (35 to 45 days after flowering). There was only a small change in magnitude of these data upon boll opening. The leveling-off D.P. was nearly constant from the 30th to the 45th day, but showed a slight decrease after boll opening. Lateral order distribution was assessed by treatment with sodium hydroxide solu tions of increasing concentrations, followed by moisture sorption measurements and x-ray evaluation of extent of lattice transformation. The data indicated perhaps a slight increase in lateral order from 20 to 30 days after flowering, then a leveling-off from 30 to 45 days and a small increase upon boll opening at 50 days. These data are interpreted as indicating that the high crystallinity of the mature cotton fiber does not suddenly appear when the fiber first dries as the boll opens, but begins to develop concurrently with the deposition of cellulose during the period of wall thickening, and reaches the final high value by crystallization of an additional small fraction of cellulose upon initial drying.
The Longitudinal Rheological Behavior of Non-uniform Fibers
Authors: Collins J.D. , Chaikin M. 
Published: March 2007

This paper is concerned with a mathematical analysis of the longitudinal rheological behavior of dimensionally and structurally variable fibers. At first, the general relation ships for the stress-strain behavior of such fibers are derived by ignoring time effects. The uniform and non-uniform fibers are compared for the case when stress and strain follow a power law relationship, and the stress-strain behavior of non-uniform wool fibers is calculated to illustrate the effect with actual fibers. Structural and dimensional non- uniformities are shown to have considerable significance. When both variabilities are present, the two non-uniformities may act additively or subtractively, depending on the relationships between them. In considering time effects, the behavior of several rheological models is examined. The uniform and non-uniform specimens are compared for creep (constant load), stress relaxation (constant extension) and stress-strain behavior at constant rates of loading and straining. To illustrate the applications possible with actual fibers, the creep behavior of wet wool fibers is briefly treated.
Wrinkling Behavior of Wool Fabrics
Authors: Katz H.J. 
Published: March 2007

A multiple-pleat test has been developed for measuring the change in wrinkling properties of light to medium-weight wool fabrics following various finishing and chemical treatments. Accordion pleats are inserted in a fabric sample (6 in. X 3 in.) by two meshing sets of 30° wedges under uniform load. After holding under the required conditions, the sample is removed and the average pleat angle is measured optically at three intervals over a period of one day. The complete wrinkling behavior is given by two terms, the percentage wrinkle recovery WR at a specified time (usually 15 min) and the recovery rate RR (WR change per unit log time). A sequence of short conditioning and pleating times at 85% RH and 30°C, with recovery at 65% RH and 21°C, is used to develop a large wrinkling effect. The method requires fewer samples than conventional 180°-fold methods and is more versatile under the specified testing conditions. Results show that the change in wrinkling properties during storage or after steam-pressing must not be overlooked in interpreting the results.
Substituted Propylene Urea in Conventional, Wet, and Moist Curing
Authors: Bille Heinz E. , Petersen Harro A. 
Published: March 2007

The properties and scope of application of a new six-membered N-methylol ring compound, 4MO-5DM-PU (4-methoxy-5,5-dimethyl-NN'-dimethylolpropylene urea) are described. Special properties, such as chlorine resistance, stability to hydrolysis, light fastness, and reactivity, are discussed in the light of theoretical considerations and of the results obtained on practical application. It has been found that 4MO-5DM-PU produces chlorine-resistant, nonhydrolyzing, and lightfast finishes. The reactivity of the product requires vigorous catalysts, but this does not adversely affect its use in numerous finishing processes. The procedures used in applying 4MO-5DM-PU by the conventional and wet and moist curing processes, as well as in permanent-press hnishing, are described. At the same time, the effects of additives, such as polyacrylates, polyolefins, and polyamides, in the various processes are dealt with. The versatility of 4MO-5DM-PU has produced a varicty of interesting results.
Spinning of Cotton Yarns from Cross-Linked and Untreated Fibers on the Woolen System and Their Performance in Winter-Weight Fabrics 1
Authors: Valko Emery I. , Angelo Paul J. 
Published: March 2007

Cotton cellulose in form of loose bleached fiber was cross-linked with dimethylol ethylene urea. No serious difficulties were encountered, but the cross-linked fiber was brittle and suffered extensive damage when carded on the woolen system. The yarn so produced was extremely weak, although it exhibited higher bulk compressional resilience than yarn spun from untreated fiber. Yarn spun on the woolen system from bleached cotton fiber exhibited high bulk, loft, and strength. Treating the yarn with DMEU reduced considerably its strength but increased its resilience. Winter-weight fabrics could be produced from untreated cotton yarn and from cotton yarn spun from blends of untreated and DMEU-treated fibers. The hand of the fabric woven from the blend was superior to the hand of untreated fabrics and also of fabrics which were treated with DMEU after weaving.
Studies on Luster in Textiles
Authors: Prakash Jai , Oka P.G. , Iyengar R.L.N. 
Published: March 2007

By using a specially designed sample holder for gripping the aligned and parallelized cotton fibers in conjunction with locally fabricated lustermeter, it has been possible to measure accurately the changes in the luster behavior of cotton fibers on slack merceri zation followed by stretching to different degrees. The differential response of cotton fibers of ten varieties to the enhancement of luster as a result of slack mercerization followed by stretching to different extents has been related to the corresponding changes in the gross morphological structure and the molecular orientation. The degree of shape improvement between unmercerized and mercerized-unstretched state of a cotton has been found to be much greater than the shape improvement from mercerized-unstretched to mercerized-stretched state, and yet the development of luster has been found to be far more pronounced in the latter case than in the former. Attempts have been made to explain this behavior in terms of the changes in the molecular orientation, surface characteristics, and convolution geometry of the cotton fibers.
Improved Cotton Durable Press by Wet Fixation. Laboratory-Mill Correlations1
Authors: Baitinger William F. , Nakajima William , DePaolo George 
Published: March 2007

Previous experimental treatment of the theoretical aspects of the wet-fixation tech nique has led to conclusions regarding the nature of the resins and reactants used, their interactions in the process, and the balancing of cross-linking for durable-press per formance and polymerization for physical-property retention. Subsequently, laboratory trials were run which were designed to elucidate and test the critical variables of the process, the ultimate objective being successful translation of the process to the mill. Recognizing that fabric type is a particularly critical variable, work to date has been limited to three fabrics-100% cotton corduroy, 100% cotton twill, and cotton broad- cloth. The following variables were considered on a laboratory basis—bath concentra tion of resin and reactant, time and temperature of wet fixation, concentration and nature of topping catalyst, and pressing and final cure. The results are analyzed by means of wrinkle recovery, physical properties, appearance and crease ratings, and resin analysis. Optimal selected laboratory conditions have been duplicated on a mill scale and, for samples examined to date, the correlation is very good. The following conclusions can be drawn from this work: for a particular fabric, e.g., corduroy or cotton twill, the "wet-fixation" technique provides an excellent level of durable-press performance with high physical-property retention, including significantly improved abrasion resistance; some latitude exists in the "wet-fixation" step, permitting either high-temperature/short-time reaction or room-temperature/longer-time batching; catalyzation, pressing and curing play a significant role in end-result performance, and the controlled translation of laboratory trials to mill trials has been successfully accomplished.
Studies in Wool Yellowing
Authors: Gruen L.C. , Inglis A.S. 
Published: March 2007

Variations in the concentrations of aluminum sulfate and sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate, added with the fluorescent brightening agent to unbleached wool, can affect both the extent of bleaching and the uptake of fluorescent brightening agent. Experi ments with different fluorescent brighteners have confirmed that several of these reagents are suitable for wool fabric if the fabric is subsequently treated with thiourea-formaldehyde. Comparisons made were based primarily on changes in fluorescence and yellowness index on irradiation. Resins may be added with the thiourea-formaldehyde treatment to increase the resistance of the fabric to shrinkage without adversely affecting the protection given against yellowing. Fabrics treated initially with hydrogen peroxide instead of chlorine showed improved shrink-resistance when followed by resin-thiourea-formaldehyde treat ment and appreciably better appearance.
A Corona Discharge Method of Producing Shrink-Resistant Wool and Mohair
Authors: Thorsen W.J. 
Published: March 2007

The felting shrinkage resistance imparted to wool by an air-corona field increases to a maximum near 100°C, decreases to a minimum at about 115-120°C, and then increases at higher temperatures. At 100°C and 415 Hz, the shrinkage resistance increases to a maximum at about 17.5 kV, then decreases rapidly. Ozone is believed not responsible for the shrinkage resistance because corona cells operating at about 90°C or higher generate little ozone. Chlorine gas in the air-corona field markedly increases the rate at . which wool is made shrink-resistant. An air/chlorine volume ratio of about 14/1 gives excellent results. If either nitrogen or oxygen, instead of air, is mixed with chlorine, only about half as much shrinkage resistance is achieved. A contribution of oxides of nitrogen to shrink resistance is suggested. Treatment effectiveness of an air-chlorine corona field is increased by adding hydrated salts to the wool or by the presence of water or HCI in the gas. Under conditions which produce satisfactory shrink resistance, the air-chlorine corona treatment causes no change in dyeing rate or in the solubility in acid or base. A continuous reactor is described which uses plane Pyrex cell electrodes. The thin webbing of fibers is transported through the cell by an endless belt. Several metals are satisfactory as belt material, but must be insulated electrically from grounded parts or high-voltage conductors so that arcing will not occur. In the presence of chlorine, the metal should be Teflon-coated.