bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Application d'une méthodologie expérimentale à l'étude du diagramme ternaire d'un gel
Authors: FORESTIER JEAN‐PIERRE , PUECH EDITH , TICHADOU JEAN‐LOUIS 
Published: May 2007

RésuméNous avons montré sur l'exemple d'un gel, mélange de trois constituants (C12–C15 Alcohols Benzoate, Cyclomethicone et Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer) qu'il est possible d'optimiser une formulation en un nombre preécis d'essais en faisant appel à une stratégic expérimentale optimale. Le gel avait déjàétéétudié par Chang,1mais par approches successives.Nous avons utlisé les matrices d'expériences développées dans le cas des mélanges par Scheffe sous le nom de ‘reseaux‐simplex'. Prévoyant des intéractions de 2éme ordre entre les constituants nous avons retenu le modéle appelé‘cubique réduit'. Cette approche permet l'exploration systémique de tout le domaine.Les réponses étudiées sont la compatibilité (gel homogène ou non), la consistance, la blancheur et le coût. Le meilleur gel étant celui qui se rapproche le plus de la vaseline.A partir des résultats, nous avons tracé des courbes d'isoréponse en blancheur, consistance et coût. La superposition des diagrammes conduit à la détermination d'une zone où les réponses sont optimales.En ajoutant la réponse supplémentaire: ‘facilité d'étalement sur la peau’on arrive au meilleur gel avec un nombre réduit d'essais.La même méthode s'appliquerait à des mélanges de plus de trois constituants.Study of a ternary diagram gel according to a methodology of experimental research
Transparent macroemulsions for cosmetic applications
Authors: GARTI N. , ASERIN A. , KOPILOVICH A. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThis study proposes a method for preparation of transparent emulsions for cosmetic applications. The continuous phase in oil‐in‐water emulsions consisted of both water and several polyols in order to equalize the refractive indices of the two phases. Sorbitol, glycerol and mannitol were the main polyols used in the adequate concentration and isopropyl myristate was the oil phase. Stabilities of a few days in 60°C incubation and a few months on the shelf were obtained.Combinations of triethanolamine oleate together with sorbitan esters and ethoxylated sorbitan esters were found to improve the emulsion stability.The optimal water concentration was checked by spectrophotometer measurements at 660 nm in order to achieve best transparency.In conclusion, it was demonstrated that relatively stable transparent macroemulsions can be prepared by equalizing the refractive indices of the two phases composing the emulsion. Application des macroémulsions transparentes a la cosmétique
A new technique for the evaluation of cosmetics effect on mechanical properties of stratum corneum and epidermis in vitro
Authors: ROCHEFORT A. , DRUOT P. , LEDUC M. , VASSALET R. , AGACHE P. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe mechanical properties of stratum corneum and epidermis have been measured in vitro and a dispersity of approximately 30% to 50% between samples from the same donor has been found. To overcome such a limitation, a technique was developed in order to compare the mechanical properties of the same skin sample before and after treatment. The chosen parameter (initial slope of the stress‐strain curve) appeared to be influenced by the topical application of products. A different time response was found with stratum corneum and epidermis reflecting their structural differences. Une nouvelle technique d'evaluation de l'effet des produits cosmétique sur les propriétés mécaniques du stratum corneum et de l'épiderme humains (etude in vitro)
Dandruff: infection or not?
Authors: ABBE NORMAN J. VAN , HEAD DEBORAH , REED JOHN V. , MURRELL ELSPETH A. , BAXTER PATRICIA M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe presence of apparently normal corneocytes as well as parakeratotic material in dandruff scales suggests that atypical keratinization in the scalp epidermis has not been of long duration. Abundance of hair fat on the scalp after puberty, colonization by fat‐splitting micro‐organisms (notably yeasts of the genus Pityrosporum) and transitory upsurges of epidermal mitosis in response to fatty acids produced by lipolysis of sebum triglycerides within the hair follicles, especially those in the anagen phase, seem likely to be implicated in the generation of dandruff scaling.Antidandruff efficacy apparently calls not only for antifungal potency demonstrable in vitro but also for the ability, when incorporated in a suitable formulation, to reach the microflora within the hair follicles and to inhibit the metabolic activity of these microorganisms even in the presence of sebum. The in vivo demonstration of an alleged ‘anti‐hyperproliferative'effect of an antidandruff compound has been described but probably has only coincidental relationship to its normal function in the control of dandruff, which seems more likely to depend on its antimicrobial properties. The available evidence thus tends to favour the view that the scalp microflora have a predominant role in the generation of dandruff. Pellicules: origine microbienne ou non microbienne?
Contribution analytique à la détermination de la pureté et du degré de polymérisation de l'Acide Hyaluronique
Authors: DAVID M. , BLANDEL H. 
Published: May 2007

RésuméDe par ses propriétés physico‐chimiques et son r&#x006f;&#x030c;le biologique tissulaire, l'Acide Hyaluronique s'avère une molécule de choix pour la formulation cosmétique. Les divers échantillons commerciaux présentent des teneurs variables en chondroitines sulfates, composants biologiques naturellement associés.D'un point de vue analytique, les auteurs ont étudié la possibilité de séparer l'Acide Hyaluronique des chondroitines sulfates par une méthode simple et rapide, laquelle ne nécessite qu'une infime quantité de produit à tester.Pour ce faire, ils utilisent la chromatographie par perméation de gel ou chromatographie de type exclusion. Les chromatogrammes obtenus par cette technique permettent de visualiser l'Acide Hyaluronique et les chondroitines sulfates sous forme de deux pics juxtaposés dont les surfaces sont proportionnelles aux teneurs respectives des deux polysaccharides.Le profil configurationnel du pic correspondant à l'Acide Hyaluronique et son volume de rétention apportent de précieux renseignements sur le caractère polymérisé de l'échantillon.Comparéà un étalon connu, il est possible en 30 minutes de déterminer les pourcentages respectifs en Acid Hyaluronique et chondroitines sulfates d'un échantillon et de préciser le degré de polymérisation de celui‐ci. Analytical contribution to the determination of the purity and the degree of polymerization of Hyaluronic Acid Hyaluronic Acid (H.A.) is of importance in cosmetic formulation because of its physical chemical properties and its role in biological tissues; it occurs in association with chondroitin sulphates and a method of analysis of separating the two substances has been developed.The method is based on gel permeation chromatography, or ‘exclusion’chromatography, and requires extremely small quantities of product. The conditions which have been found give two neighbouring peaks of which the surfaces are proportional to the contents of H.A. and the chondroitin sulphates.In addition to the quantity, the shape of the H.A. peak and the relative retention volume give further information as to the polymerization character of the sample. Using a known control sample it is possible, in 30 minutes, to determine the relative proportions of the polysaccharides H.A. and chondroitin sulphates and to determine the degree of polymerization of the H.A.Results are given of the analysis of a commercial sample of H.A.
Influence du butyrylhydroxyproline sur le developpement des fibroblastes en culture
Authors: MARTINI M. C. , DOLQUES Ch. , VIOLLAND N. , COTTE J. 
Published: May 2007

RésuméLes auteurs ont cherchéà mettre en évidence éventuelle action d'un lipoaminoacide, le butyrylhydroxyproline, à la fois sur la vitesse de croissance des fibroblastes en culture et sur leur capacité de biosynthèse des protéines.Les cultures cellulaires ont été réalisées en milieu de HAM additionné de 10%, 5% ou 2% de sérum de veau nouveau‐né et l'évaluation de la croissance cellulaire effectuée par comptage. Les souches utilisées provenaient de prélèvements de peau humaine (fetus, enfant, adulte) mis en culture monocouche et utilisés à des stades de subculture voisins.La biosynthèse des protéines a étéétudiée par incorporation de L‐Proline 3H‐5 ou de L‐Leucine 3H à raison de 5 μCi/ml de milieu de culture, soit 3 jours, soit 7 jours après confluence.Les produits étudiés furent:— le butyrylhydroxyproline en solution à 48%;— le N‐acetylhydroxyproline servant de produit de référence.Après détermination de la cytotoxicité, les quantités incorporées furent les suivantes:— de 10 à 100 μg de produit pur par millilitre de milieu de culture pour le lipoaminoacid butyrylhydroxyproline;— de 17.4 à 500 μg/ml pour le N‐acetylhydroxyproline.Quelles que soient les conditions expérimentales et les concentrations utilisées, les deux produits sont sans action nettement significative sur la croissance cellulaire. En revanche, les auteurs ont pu mettre en evidence une action sur la biosynthèse des protéines totales pour les deux produits. Trois à cinq jours après la confluence, le lipoaminoacide et le N‐acetyl hydroxyproline provoquent une augmentation d'environ 30% de la biosynthèse des proteines par rapport au témoin. Cette action se manifeste pour des doses faibles (10 à 20 μg/ml) et pourrait correspondre à une augmentation du métabolisme cellulaire. Influence of butyrylhydroxyproline on the development of fibroblasts in culture
Effect of placental extracts on the growth of fibroblasts in vitro
Authors: L'HEVEDER Ch. , MARTINI M. C. , COTTE J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisMonolayer cultures of human fibroblasts were used both to confirm clinical experiments in which it was found that placental extracts increased the rate of healing and to demonstrate the action on cellular regeneration. The cytotoxic dose of lyophilized extracts from human placentae was first determined and the extracts were then added to culture media at concentrations of 100 to 400 μg/ml.A variable amount of newborn calf serum was used in order to obtain media lacking nutrient substances. The tests were carried out on cells from both young and elderly donors and growth was evaluated by counting cell numbers and by microassay of DNA.A stimulatory action of the placental extracts was only observed on young cells cultivated in deficient culture media and no stimulation could be demonstrated on cells aged in vivo or in vitro. Effets des extraits placentaires sur la croissance des fibroblastes in vitro
A comparison of the in vitro permeability properties of human and some laboratory animal skins
Authors: SCOTT R. C. , WALKER M. , DUGARD P. H. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe in vitro permeability of human and some common laboratory animals'skin has been measured to two chemicals with different physico‐chemical properties: [3H] water, a small polar molecule and [14C]paraquat dichloride (the ion), a fully ionised divalent cation. All the skins examined had similar permeabilities to [3H]water: relative to human skin the greatest difference (x4.8) was measured through guinea pig skin. However, relative to human skin, all the animals were much more permeable to [14C]paraquat, with factors of difference ranging between 40 (haired rat) and 1460 (hairless mouse). The in vitro technique allows the permeability of human and animal skin to be compared, facilitating extrapolation to Man of effects seen in animals during dermal exposure studies. Comparaison de la permeabilite in vitro de la peau humaine et de la peau de certains animaux de laboratoire
Identification et dosage de l'hydroquinone et de ses éthers méthylique et benzylique dans les produits cosmétiques pour blanchir la peau
Authors: HERPOL‐BORREMANS M. , MASSE M. O. 
Published: May 2007

RésuméMise en évidence de l'hydroquinone et de ses éthers méthylique et benzylique par chromatographie sur couche mince d'adsorption.Détermination qualitative et quantitative par chromatographie liquide à haute performance en phase inversée et détection par spectrophotométrie UV à 294 nm. Identification and dosage of hydroquinone, methyl and benzyl ethers in cosmetic products for whitening the skin.
Effects of a topical preparation on some hair growth parameters, evaluated utilizing a morphometric computerized analysis
Authors: Pelfini C. , Fideli D. , Speziali A. , Vignini M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe action of a topical preparation on some hair growth parameters has been evaluated. The morphometric computerized analysis applied to photographic images of a predetermined area (with shots after cutting and after 96 h) enabled an estimation of the percentage of elements in active growth phase compared to the total number, the length of all elements and that of the sole elements in active growth phase after 96 h and the growth with respect to the base values; statistically significant differences are observed before and after 60 days treatment. L'évaluation des effets d'un topique sur quelques paramètres de la croissance des cheveux à travers une analyse morphométrique informatisée.
Epidermal lipids
Authors: YARDLEY H. J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisFrom the time an epidermal cell leaves the basal layer to the time it is desquamated, the cell lipids change dramatically, both qualitatively and quantitatively. The most abundant lipid class in basal cells is phospholipid with the remaining lipid being accounted for by roughly equal proportions of cholesterol, non‐esterified fatty acid, triacylglycerol and glycolipid: minor components include cholesteryl esters and ceramide. In contrast, approximately half of the lipid in a desquamated cell consists of ceramide, with the remainder consisting largely of cholesterol and non‐esterified fatty acid. Immediately before desquamation, small concentrations of cholesteryl sulphate and glycolipid have been found and there is evidence that these polar lipids are important components of the water barrier and also contribute towards the physical integrity of the lower part of the stratum corneum. The change in lipid content as cornification proceeds is no less dramatic than the change in lipid composition. A basal cell contains about 10 pg lipid, whereas a desquamated stratum corneum cell contains approximately six times this amount. The change in lipid composition of a cell undergoing cornification results, therefore, largely from de novo synthesis of lipid, especially cholesterol, non‐esterified fatty acid and ceramide. Les lipides de l'épiderme
A study of the interaction of sodium dodecyl sulphate with the proteins of human heel stratum corneum
Authors: CONRADS ANDREA , ZAHN HELMUT 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe aim of this research is to study the in vitro interaction of the anionic surfactant sodium dodecyl sulphate with human heel callus with special regard to the callus proteins.The sorption of SDS by callus is analysed at different pH values, demonstrating the expected maximum binding of the anionic surfactant at low pH. In both surfactant and blank solutions, swelling of the callus pieces occurs but to different extents. The sorption of SDS by callus is accompanied by a loss of free amino acids and proteins. The protein composition of the callus residues after chemical treatment and of the corresponding treatment baths is examined by amino acid analysis and shows differences in the respective molar amino acid ratios. Results obtained with more specific techniques, such as gel electrophoresis and immunoblotting, demonstrate identical as well as different protein components in the treatment baths depending on the experimental conditions (pH, blank or SDS). Although effects due to the surfactant treatment are in principle more distinct than with blank experiments, those of the latter cannot be neglected.
Studies on the skin uptake and efflux kinetics of N‐phenyl‐p‐phenylenediamine: an aromatic amine intermediate
Authors: KHANNA S. K. , TEWARI PUSHPA , JOSHI ANIL , SINGH G. B. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisN‐phenyl‐p‐phenylenediamine (N‐PPDA), an industrial intermediate and hair dye ingredient, has been implicated in a variety of toxic symptoms including cutaneous manifestations. However, the role of physiological factors that may determine and modify its absorption and transport within and through the skin is not fully understood. The present study reveals that N‐PPDA binds readily to skin showing saturation kinetics with Km and Vmax of 2.54 × 10−4 M and 4.76 μmol g−1 skin, respectively. The uptake was dependent upon the area of skin, concentration of the amine, exposure time, temperature and pH of the vehicle. Heat treatment facilitated the binding but temperatures abouv 50° caused significant lowering of the uptake, indicating the possible involvement of collagen matrix. Skin lipids also contributed in the binding of N‐PPDA. Bioinhibitors such as KCN, sodium arsenate, NaF, N‐ethylmaleimide, cycloheximide, iodoacetic acid and 2,4‐dinitrophenol had no effect on the uptake potential, suggesting it to be a non‐energy dependent process. Most of the skin‐bound N‐PPDA was effluxed through serum proteins reaching the target organs via systemic circulation.
Chemical reactions in perfume ageing
Authors: BLAKEWAY J. M. , FREY M. L. , LACROIX S. , SALERNO M. S. 
Published: May 2007

SummaryThe interactions between a typical range of perfume materials, alcohol, water, air, elevated temperatures and daylight have been studied. The changes of composition, acidity, peroxide content and the formation of new molecules were followed. The stabilizing effects of UV absorbers, antioxidants and sequestering agents were examined;— the formation of acid reaction products was accelerated by air, temperature, daylight and the presence of natural products;— peroxide formation was accelerated by heat and light and the presence of air; as the acidity increased, the peroxides decomposed;— the acetalization of other aldehydes was accelerated by temperature and daylight and the presence of natural products up to 40% of certain aldehydes may be converted into acetals after 3 months at 37°C;— many stereoisomerizations occur, e.g., transisoeugenol is converted up to 10% into the cis isomer after 3 months at 37°C and 58% in daylight;— evaluation of antioxidants UV absorbers and sequestering agents showed a significant protection against deterioration only by EDTA dipotassium salt;— ethanol was converted into acetaldehyde and its diethylacetal by peroxides present and formed on ageing up to 0.08%. Natural products accelerated this formation;— the reaction between benzoyl peroxide and ethanol was shown to yield up to 63% of acetaldehyde+diethyl acetal whilst di‐t‐butyl peroxide gave only 23% under the same conditions.These results go some way to explaining odour changes in perfume ageing.
Evaluation of an in vitro percutaneous permeation model with two oxidative hair dyes
Authors: BRACHER M. , FALLER C. , NOSER F. K. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe percutaneous permeation of two oxidative hair dyes was measured by means of pig skin in a flow‐through diffusion cell system entirely constructed from Teflon. Pig skin membranes were prepared by reducing full thickness skin with a dermatome to a more in vivo‐like barrier layer and their integrity was checked by measuring the steady‐state permeation of tritiated water. Initially, the inter‐ and intraindividual variability of percutaneous permeation was determined with an aqueous solution of 1‐(2′‐hydroxyethyl)‐amino‐3,4‐methylenedioxybenzene‐hydrochloride, an oxidative hair dye component. In the same way the proper flow rate of elution fluid through the receptor cell was found to be most favourable at 10 ml h‐1, the thickness of permeation membranes was fixed at 1 mm, and it was shown that storage of the skin at −20°C for up to 35 days did not change the permeability. The percutaneous permeation of the same hair dye component and of 4‐amino‐2‐hydroxymethylphenol‐hydrochloride was determined after application to pig skin membranes under practical conditions of hair dyeing. The in vitro skin permeation was in the same order of magnitude as results from comparable in vivo skin absorption studies in rats. Perméation percutanée in vitro de colorants d'oxydation pour cheveux
Henna as an antimicrobial agent
Authors: GUERRIER C. J. W. , ABDULWAHAB A. , BASRI N. , REVILL S. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisPowdered henna leaf as used as a cosmetic in the Middle East has been tested for its antimicrobial qualities against a series of common organisms. It has been shown to be effective against bacteria and some common fungi, but to have only limited potency against Candida albicans and Trichosporon beigelii. Le henne utilisé comme agent anti‐microbien La poudre de henné, préparée à partir des feuilles séchées de Lawsonia inermis, est largement utilisée comme produit cosmétique au Moyen et en Extrěme‐Orient. Elle a également une longue renommée en tant qu'agent antiseptique et conservateur, utilisée par les pharaons égyptiens pour la conservation des momies. Le henné est également connu pour de prévenir l'infection de la peau et du cuir chevelu. C'est pourquoi il a été décidé de tester son pouvoir d'inhibition sur les germes pathogènes communs en laboratoire. On a d'abord testé la stérilité de la poudre de henné; on a trouvé qu'elle contenait à la fois des bacilles non‐pathogènes et l'Aspergillus niger, mais aucun autre microbe pathogène humain reconnu.On a démontré qu'une suspension de 10% de poudre de henné sèche du commerce dans de l'eau distillée stérile inhibe la prolifération de Pseudomonas pyocyanea, Escherichia coli, Straphylococcus aureus, Microsporum gypseum, Microsporum canis et Trichophyton mentagrophytes en culture. Le succès a été moins flagrant pour inhiber la prolifération des Trichosporon beigelii et l'opération a échoué pour le Candida Albicans. Le henné utilisé en solution sur la peau humaine perd ses propriétés inhibitrices à l'encontre des germes précités. On en a donc conclu que le henné a des propriétés anti‐microbiennes, mais avec un spectre limité.
Surfactant‐induced fluorescence changes in fluorescein dye
Authors: MATHUR A. K. , AGARWAL CHITRA , PANGTEY B. S. , SINGH A. , GUPTA B. N. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisAddition of non‐ionic surfactants revealed changes in the visible absorbance and fluorescence characteristics of fluorescein dyes. Non‐ionic surfactants induced a shift in Δmax, towards shorter wavelengths along with a decrease in absorbance of the dye. On the other hand, addition of anionic surfactants induced a shift of Δmax, towards longer wavelengths along with enhancement in absorbance and fluorescence. The absorbance value decreased initially, but increased on further addition of cationic surfactant, whereas fluorescence increased initially but decreased on further addition of cationic surfactant. These changes are attributed to the interaction of surfactant micelle with dye molecules, resulting in change of the coloured quinoid form to the colourless lactone form and vice versa.
A method for the determination of the carbon chain length composition of amine oxides.
Authors: LANGLEY N. A. , SUDDABY D. , COUPLAND K. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisAlkylamine oxides and alkylamidopropyldimethylamine oxides belong to an important group of surfactant materials. They are used extensively in formulations for cosmetics, toiletries and household products.Although there are numerous analytical methods available to evaluate physical and chemical properties of these compounds, there remains a demand for a qualitative method for the determination of the carbon chain length composition.Amine oxides cannot be analysed directly by gas liquid chromatography (GLC) as they decompose at temperatures above 100°C to give the terminal alkenes and tertiary amines. However, amine oxides can be analysed by GLC if they are first reduced to the tertiary amines. Examples of each type of amine oxide were reduced with triphenylphosphine in boiling glacial acetic acid between 1 and 1.5 h.In this paper a rapid qualitative analytical procedure is described.