bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Cotton Fiber Imperfections and Their Probable Relation to Yarn Quality
Authors: Harrison George J. , Craig Edna E. 
Published: March 2008

In this paper the common imperfections occurring in cotton fibers have been studied in order to determine (1) the growth factors contributing to the formation of such imperfec tions and (2) the importance of imperfections as factors which contribute to neppiness in spun cotton. An analysis was made of several hundred neps occurring in both carded and combed yarns which showed that they were composed of ten different elements. Although there is no con clusive proof that fiber imperfections are the cause of such neps it is shown that more neps contain immature fibers than any other element. It is also shown that fibers of large diameter and deformities are factors which contribute to neppiness and thus to spinning difficulties in greater proportion than their prevalence in cotton would indicate.
Selected References on Surface Chemistry and Physics
Authors: Dyer Agnes S. , Fischer Earl K. 
Published: March 2008

This specialized bibliography is the first of its kind to appear in TEXTILE RE SEARCH JOURNAL. It was prepared to offer a listing of books and other primary references in a restricted field of inquiry which would serve as the basis for the accumulation of a company or personal library. Similar treatment of other subjects is planned for future issues, and the Editor invites readers to send their comments on this type of expansion of the literature . service offered by the JOURNAL, particularly with respect to other fields of scientific, technological, manufacturing, and economic research with which the textile industry is concerned.
The Mechanical Properties of Textiles
Authors: Halsey George , Eyring Henry 
Published: March 2008

This paper is concerned with the deformation of a number of essentially independent molecules or molecular segments distributed statistically with respect to the distance between the ends of the molecules. They are supposed to be free to assume many configurations ( as a result of thermal agitation) except at certain points which are stabilized by chemical forces to form the more or less tightly held ( and thus well-defined) ends of the molecules. The problem solved here is as follows: Given an equilibrium distribution as a function of certain parameters, and given the expression for bulk properties in terms of molecular coordinates, what is the form of the tension as a function of the elongation and the various parameters?
Correlation of Equilibrium Moisture Data
Authors: Whitwell John C. , Tonert Richard K. 
Published: March 2008

These equilibrium moisture regain studies were initiated in an attempt to extend the data on equilibrium moisture in textile fibers as determined by Wiegerink and others. In the course of the correlation, it became evident that further material of value to the general problem of drying and concentration could be extracted from these and related data by calculations dealing with water solutions and silica gel. The combined information is now presented without an attempt to include the extrapolations and corrections for all of the textile data. The data are correlated by the use of Othmer charts. The constant regain lines on these charts are extended statistically to a common point of intersection charac teristic of any one fiber in any one process of sorption or desorption. The location of this common point is interpreted in light of the restriction of the water molecule on the fiber and the relative swelling property of the material. Regions of moisture regain are found which give conclusive evidence of pure adsorption uncomplicated by swelling. Another paper, "Statistical Methods for Equilibrium Moisture Correlations," by Professors Whitwell and Toner and Mr. P. J. McCarthy, will appear in the July issue.
Determination of Statistical Control and Related Factors in the Performance of Breaking-strength Testing of Fabrics
Authors: Edelman Norman B. 
Published: March 2008

A study of test results obtained by 50 operators, considered as a group, on meas uring the breaking strength of uniform twill fabric following a widely accepted "grab method" technique showed 26 percent of the operators to be out of statistical control. It was found that those operators whose tensile testing was out of control had not met the two requirements of considerable experience and continual performance in textile testing. Jaw breaks, which constitute about one-third of all the breaks performed, are shown to give more variable strengths and definitely lower average strengths than acceptable breaks, indicating that the jaws of the test machine contribute a weaken ing effect on the fabric and that jaw pressures should be known and regulated. Good operators (those in control) get practically the same number of jaw breaks as those out of control. A good operator will not necessarily get higher breaking strengths, or better types of breaks.
Effect of Clamp Design on Fabric Breaking Strength
Authors: Kelly Warren T. , Hays Margaret B. 
Published: March 2008

The strength values of 10 fabrics, determined by the grab and raveled-strip methods and measured with the new Scott 2-inch fabric clamp and the standard 1-inch fabric clamp, were studied. It was found that the 2-inch fabric clamp did not give more accurate results although the number of jaw breaks was reduced 30 percent.
Improvements in the Acid-Hydrolysis Method of Determining the Crystallinity of Cellulose
Authors: Nelson Mary L. , Conrad Carl M. 
Published: March 2008

In a study of the acid-hydrolysis method [5] for the determination of the degree of crystal linity of cellulose fibers, a technique has been developed for the solvent removal from the hydrolysis residues of all but traces of the humic substances which are formed from the soluble hydrolysis products and which interfere with the crystallinity determination. Although ammonium hydroxide and pyridine were effective solvents, hot 50-percent aqueous monoethanolamine was found to be the most practicable means of removing these humic sub stances. Its effectiveness was demonstrated ( a) by showing that the weights of the extracted residues were the same as the weights of residues corrected by computations based on data from experiments with glucose; ( b) by varying the liquid-solid ratio during hydrolysis and showing the uniformity of the weights of the resulting ethanolamine-extracted residues; and (c) by obtaining equal extrapolated values for degree of crystallinity from parallel extracted and un extracted but mathematically corrected hydrolysis series. Data are presented to show that preliminary extraction with either 1-percent sodium hydroxide or ethanolamine to remove the noncellulosic constituents does not change the crys tallinity values of samples of cotton and cotton linters. A revised crystallinity procedure is described which incorporates the improvements de scribed above.
The Sulfuric Acid Steep at Elevated Temperatures for Gray Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Hudson R.E. , Waddle Howard M. 
Published: March 2008

The literature dealing with the effect of sulfuric acid on the constituents of raw cotton fiber has been reviewed. The constituents of starch slasher mixes have been noted. The sulfuric acid steep has been studied at elevated temperatures in the laboratory. Under carefully controlled conditions the sulfuric acid steep may be conducted at elevated temperatures without fiber damage and with a considerable saving in time.
Measurement of the Frictional Properties of Wool Fibers
Authors: Frishman Daniel , Smith Arthur L. , Harris Milton 
Published: March 2008

The surface of a wool fiber consists of a series of overlapping scales so arranged that when the fiber is rubbed from the tip towards the root it is considerably rougher than when it is rubbed in the reverse direction. Accordingly, when a material containing wool fibers is sub mitted to mechanical action such as occurs in laundering or in fulling processes the fibers tend to migrate in the direction of their roots. This migration tendency is recognized as one of the principal factors in the formation of the entangled mass known as a felt, and in the excessive shrinkage which wool materials exhibit during laundering. An instrument for measuring these surface frictional properties on individual fibers is described. Measurements made on many wool fibers indicate large variations in frictional properties. The relationship between friction and diameter was studied and no significant correlation was found. Measurements made in the dry state resulted in all cases in lower values than measurements made on the same fibers in the wet state. The coefficients of friction of a few varieties of wool and of human hair and mohair are described.
Method for Evaluating the Elastic Properties of Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Fletcher Hazel M. , Hansen Arnold M. , Duensing Mary Ellen 
Published: March 2008

A device is described which was designed and built primarily for evaluating the visco-elastic behavior of knitted fabrics. This apparatus can be used in measuring the stretch and elastic recovery of knitted materials in either the lengthwise or crosswise direction or in both directions simultaneously when various loads are applied. Measurements made with this machine are presented which show the relationship between strain and elastic recovery in plain knit fabrics of cotton, nylon, rayon, and wool. Elastic re covery values as determined on the new device are considerably higher than those obtained with the incline-plane serigraph machine commonly employed in determining the breaking strength and elongation of yarns. This difference in values is due to the fact that in the method using the incline-plane machine only the recovery which occurs instantaneously is measured, whereas with the new device it is possible to determine the combined instantaneous and delayed recovery.
Formaldehyde Curing of Zein Fibers
Authors: Evans Cyril D. , Croston C. Bradford 
Published: March 2008

Conditions necessary for the rapid formaldehyde curing of zein fibers were investigated and a continuous two-stage curing process was developed. The first stage (precuring) consists of a mild cure to introduce approximately 0.75 percent formaldehyde into the fiber and produces, after stretching, a fine-diameter fiber of exceptional strength and elasticity. The second stage (post-curing) consists of a strong cure to introduce about 3.0 percent additional formaldehyde into the stretched fiber to stabilize its length. Formaldehyde is bound under both alkaline and acid conditions, but it is only under acid conditions that any curing occurs. Ammonium salts act as catalysts for the reaction in the pH range 0 to 4 and the resulting fibers are stable to boiling in mild alkali. When cured under highly acidic conditions (below pH 0), the fibers are stable to both acid and alkaline boiling.
The Fungi Concerned in Fiber Deterioration
Authors: Marsh P.B. , Bollenbacher K. , Butler M.L. , Raper K.B. 
Published: March 2008

On the basis of a survey of the literature and of test results here reported on more than 400 fungus isolates, cellulose-decomposing activity is shown to be very widely distributed but not universal among the fungi. It occurs with a high degree of regularity among isolates of certain genera- e.g., Alternaria, Chaetomium, Curvularia, Fusarium, Gliomastix, Helmintho sporium, Humicola, Memnoniella, Stachybotrys, and Trichoderma, and probably with equal fre quency in other genera which have not been so extensively studied. It occurs in a greater or smaller number of species in many of the several groups or subdivisions of the genus Aspergillus but apparently not in all of them, in a much smaller but rather widely diverse group of species in the genus Penicillium, apparently not at all in Mucor, Rhizopus, and other genera of the Mucoraceae, and probably only rarely among the actinomycetes. Tests on Cladosporium herbarum show that the temperature optima for growth of isolates of this fungus are in general distinctly below the approximately 30°C used by several other workers in experiments with it; this fact is believed to account, at least in part, for the poor cellulose-decomposing activity shown by it in their tests. Tests on Pullularia pullulans have failed to detect cellulolytic activity.
Levelness of Acid Wool Dyes: The Application of Laboratory Tests to Production
Authors: Leonard E.A. , Lathrop G.A. , Mersereau E.P. 
Published: March 2008

A quantitative laboratory method for evaluating levelness of acid wool dyes is described. The procedure consists of running half of a normal yarn-dye cycle and then making additions of white yarn and dye liquor equal in amount to those in the original batch. The second half of the cycle is then run, and the yarns are removed. Reflectances of the two dyed yarns are determined on a G. E. recording spectrophotometer and a "levelness index" is calculated as the ratio of dye concentration on the yarn added at the mid-point of the cycle to that on the yarn started at the beginning of the cycle. The technical background of the test method is outlined and the results of tests on repre sentative dyes are tabulated. It is shown that the test method has sufficient flexibility to permit examinations of the effects of dyeing variables on levelness. An example is cited showing the effect of salt concentration on levelness of Alizarine Cyanine Green CG ex. (C. I. 1078). The example above is applied to plant production, and the levelness of 500-pound Hussong stock-dyed batches is evaluated by spectrophotometer reflectances, converted to dye concen tration, of stratified samples from the batches of stock. It is shown that the coefficient of dye concentration variation among the 8 samples from a plant batch is proportional to the laboratory "levelness index."
Degradation of Cellulose as Revealed Microscopically
Authors: Hock Charles W. 
Published: March 2008

Because natural cellulose is fundamentally fibrous, degradation—be it caused by chemical agents such as acids and alkalies, by physical agents such as grinding and ultrasonic vibration, or by biological agents such as molds and bacteria—proceeds in a manner which reflects this basic fibrillate structure. The dimensions of the threadlike fibrils into which cellulose breaks down vary, depending upon the severity of the treatment and perhaps also on innate differences among celluloses from various sources. Following degradative action, light microscopy reveals fibrils of the order of several tenths of a micron in diameter. At the higher magnifications obtainable with the electron microscope, still finer fibrils, a few hundred Ångströms wide, are detectable. Certain degradative treatments cause a further transverse splitting of these fibrils into rod-shaped structures. From x-ray and chemical investigations it is known that cellulose is made up of long-chain molecules whose arrangement with respect to one another gives rise to more or less ordered but poorly reactive crystalline regions and to disordered but easily reactive amorphous regions. Since microscopical studies show that many reactions proceed more easily in the regions between the fibrils than within the fibrils themselves, it appears that the crystalline cellulose is located principally in the fibrils, whereas the interfibrillar regions compose, in large measure, the amorphous fraction.
Measurement and Theory of Absorbency of Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Buras Edmund M. , Goldthwait Charles F. , Kraemer Rita M. 
Published: March 2008

High and uniform absorbency of cotton fabrics is a desirable quality in nearly every wet- finishing operation and in many finished fabrics; yet absorbency-measuring tests which have been employed up to the present time are largely inadequate and arbitrary. A test method is described here which is more suitable in that it meets the requirements of wetting the fabric quickly from one side while it is under pressure and allowing the comparison of different fabrics in a readily understandable manner. Using a glass filtering funnel to provide a wet porous plate and a flowmeter for measuring rates, the apparatus is easily assembled and calibrated. The test is simple and rapid and per mits numerical evaluation of both rate of absorption and total or ultimate absorption, largely independently of apparatus characteristics. The separate evaluation of these absorbency factors and the elimination of timing procedures set this test apart from those previously published. The method is readily adaptable to the investigation of many liquid-absorbent relationships. Application of the test to the evaluation of absorbency of purified cotton fabrics has led to a plausible explanation of their absorption behavior as being due largely to spaces within the fabric rather than to absorption characteristics of the fiber itself.
Some Comparisons of Fiber "Fineness" Measurements
Authors: Calkins Edward W. S. 
Published: March 2008

Interlaboratory check tests show excellent correlation between our homemade air-per meability instrument and both the University of Tennessee's "Arealometer" and an air-per meability instrument in another laboratory. From similar results reported by other investigators for their own instruments, it is concluded that any instrument of this type if properly calibrated can do a good job of measuring surface area.† Comparison of data found in the literature on normal fiber perimeter, wall thickness, sur face area, and weight per inch with calculated values indicates that all laboratory measurements of fiber dimensions are surprisingly accurate and consistent. Drawings of fiber cross sections with various combinations of dimensions indicate that fibers with the same surface area are most alike in appearance and ought to be more alike in their spinning behavior than those selected for uniformity by any other fineness measurement. A chart is given (Figure 5) from which any two of the four fineness variables can be read if the other two are known. It is. shown that fibers of the same surface area may vary widely in weight per inch, and that no conversion from surface area to weight per inch can be accurate unless one other variable is held constant. This may be either wall thickness, fiber diameter, or their ratio, usually called "maturity."
The Rate of Drying of Fabrics
Authors: Fourt Lyman , Sookne Arnold M. , Frishman Daniel , Harris Milton 
Published: March 2008

It is frequently stated that one fabric dries faster than another, usually with reference to house hold conditions of drying on a line. However, the data of this report show that by and large all fabrics dry at the same rate under these conditions (rate being expressed as weight of water evaporating per unit area per unit time), but that the time of drying depends upon the amount of water originally held, so that some fabrics dry sooner than others. The main portion of the drying time shows this constant rate of drying, although there is a final period which is short compared to the main drying period, during which the rate of drying decreases. The water-holding capacity of a fabric depends upon how the fabric is supported (vertically or horizontally) and upon the mechanical treatment given to remove water. For simple drainage in the vertical position, the water-holding capacity of small samples is more closely correlated with fabric thickness than with fabric weight. The kind of fiber—i.e., wool or cotton-and large differ ences in moisture affinity, as shown with Vinyon, also affect the water-holding capacity. How ever, these factors have almost no effect on rate of drying, since this is controlled by the resistance of air layers to the passage of heat. The thickness of these air layers is sufficient under ordinary conditions to smooth-over the fabric surface irregularities, even when these are rather large, as in rib knits or in cellular or waffle fabrics. Increasing the hairiness of the surface in order to give more area for evaporation is sometimes proposed as a means of increasing the drying rate, but results show that this is without effect except for extremely high, open naps, for which the effect is the opposite-the thickness of the layers of still air is increased and the drying retarded.
Glycosidic Methoxyl Groups in Methanolyzed Cellulose
Authors: Reeves Richard E. , Mazzeno Laurence W. , Hoffpauir Carroll L. 
Published: March 2008

Oxidation by a glycol-cleavage reagent has proved that the acid-labile methoxyl groups in methanolyzed cellulose are linked in glycosidic combination (1 per molecule), and not in an acetal structure, which would require 2 such groups per molecule. Evidence confirming the glycosidic structure was obtained by fractionating methanolyzed cellulose to the point where number- average molecular weights must be calculated on the basis of 1 methoxyl group per molecule. The rate of removal of methoxyl groups from methanolyzed cellulose upon acid hydrolysis was reinvestigated. The rate is roughly comparable to the rate of hydrolysis of methyl gluco pyranosides. These findings contradict the basis for a claim, based on copper-number deter minations, that the methoxyl groups of methanolyzed cellulose are very rapidly hydrolyzed and are of the acetal type.
The Structure and Mechanical Behavior of Cellulose Fibers
Authors: Herrent P. , Lude A. 
Published: March 2008

The present reticular concept of the internal structure of cellulose gels is inadequate from several points of view. Principally, it fails to take sufficient account of purely energetic effects in the mechanical behavior of the gels, and is based primarily upon entropy changes. Further more, the marked influence of degree of polymerization and of concentration of cellulose solutions upon the course of coagulation has been largely neglected. The structure here proposed is a double network of macromolecules—a primary network, formed by the assembly of meshes the knots of which are small crystallites, and the sides of which are bundles of macromolecules, bound more or less closely to one another through their convolu tions, comprising the secondary network. This structure makes it possible to introduce into the system the changes in internal energy hitherto lacking. We thus obtain a better interpretation of the experimental facts and are able to fill in certain gaps in the former theory, taking into account present ideas regarding the state of aggregation of macromolecules in solutions and the density of the amorphous regions in cellulose.
Modification of Wool by the Application of Linear Synthetic Polyamides
Authors: Jackson D.L.C. , Lipson M. 
Published: March 2008

The effect of surface deposits of nylon and N-substituted nylons on the abrasion-resistance and felting shrinkage of wool has been determined. N-methoxymethyl nylons are much more effective than nylon itself, when applied from solution, in increasing the abrasion-resistance of wool fabric, but not in decreasing the felting shrinkage of the fabric. If the N-methoxymethyl nylon is first applied to the wool fabric from alcoholic solution and then hydrolyzed in situ by approximately 2N HCl, the polymer is found to confer non-felting properties on the wool. A deposit of approximately 3% by weight of polymer has been found to eliminate entirely the felting shrinkage of wool fabric under the conditions of test. The optimum degree of substitution of the nylon for the production of non-feltability is between 5% and 6% combined formaldehyde, which corresponds to between 20% and 24% —NH groups substituted. The effectiveness of these polymers in increasing abrasion-resistance and decreasing felting shrinkage is explained on the basis of their adhesion to and covering power on the wool fiber.