bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Substantivity of sunscreens—preparation and evaluation of some quaternary ammonium benzophenone derivatives
Authors: SAETTONE M. F. , ALDERIGI C. , GIANNACCINI B. , ANSELMI C. , ROSSETTI M. G. , SCOTTON M. , CERINI R. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisIn continuation of previous studies on keratin‐substantive sunscreens, two series of quaternary ammonium compounds, derived from 2,4‐dihydroxy and from 4‐hydroxybenzophenone and containing O‐alkyl and N‐alkyl chains of different length were prepared and submitted to substantivity tests on wool, to microbiological tests on two bacterial and two fungal species, and to tests for allergenicity/irritation on human skin. All compounds were rapidly adsorbed by wool in aqueous solution: as expected, the maximum amounts adsorbed at equilibrium (Smax), indicative of the skin substantivity, were greatest for the C12 N‐alkyl derivatives, and showed a progressive decrease with increasing length of the N‐alkyl substituent. No substantial substantivity differences were detected in four C12 quaternary derivatives, differing by the presence (or absence) of a 2‐OH group in the benzophenone moiety and by the length of the O‐alkyl (n= 2 or 3) side chain. When tested for antimicrobial activity, however, only the 4‐hydroxybenzophenone C12 quaternary derivatives showed an order of activity comparable with that of two reference compounds. The conditions leading to a maximal antibacterial activity in the present compounds appeared to be the absence of the 2‐OH group, and a shorter O‐alkyl side chain. None of the new quaternary derivatives showed skin‐irritant properties. The results of this investigation, while confirming the peak substantivity of C12 quaternary derivatives, indicate the possibility of dissociating, in a quaternary ammonium sunscreen, the skin substantivity from other unwanted side‐effects, and offer some guidelines for the development of safer agents of this type.
Etude de l'action d'un traitement par voie topique sur la synthèse de la kératine pilaire chez le Rat
Authors: ZAHAF F. , OUSTRIN J. 
Published: May 2007

RésuméDeux protocoles expérimentaux sur des rats Wistar ma&#x030c;les prépubères, ont été comparés en étudiant l'influence d'une lotion d'extraits végétaux sur la synthèse de la kératine du poil. Par l'utilisation de la cystéine S‐35 comme précurseur marqué on démontre un effet stimulant de la préparation essayée sur la synthèse de la kératine par les follicules pileux permettant peut‐ětre secondairement une pousse plus active du poil.Les deux protocoles expérimentaux, avec un ou plusieurs prélèvement de poil chez le měme animal, donnent des résultats comparables et significatifs. L'activité de la lotion est démontrée dès le huitième jour d'application quotidienne, et 24 heures aprés l'ingestion du précurseur marqué avec un maximum en fin de la phase catagène.
Determination of sun protection factors. Correlation between in vivo human studies and an in vitro skin cast method
Authors: FERGUSON J. , BROWN M. W. , HUBBARD A. W. , SHAW M. I. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisSun protection factors were determined by both an in vitro method which used resin casts taken from replicas of human skin and by an in vivo SPF method. Thirty‐eight product development samples were tested for the level of sun protection using both methods and the results were compared. The values obtained showed a positive relationship which was closely approximated by a log‐linear regression of in vivo data on in vitro data (regression coefficient, r2= 0.86).It is concluded that the cast technique is quick, convenient, inexpensive and in its present form useful for screening sunscreen products prior to in vivo SPF testing.
Image analysis as a tool for measuring biological phenomena of the skin
Authors: BARTON S. P. , MARKS R. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisIn an industry very much concerned with image it is not surprising to find that Image Analysers are beginning to fulfil the potential that a few groups recognized some time ago. This presentation will outline briefly the principles of image analysis and demonstrate how these can be put to use in measurement. Skin will be referenced as the example almost throughout this text, though it is important to remember that there are other applications which may interest cosmetic chemists; in the field of particulates and emulsions for example, and generally in production quality control. Finally, since the technology is often very easy to use, potential dangers in its misuse will also be pointed out where necessary.
Evolution of lipid composition in skin treated with blackcurrant seed oil
Authors: BROD J. , TRAITLER H. , STUDER A. , De LACHARRIERE O. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThis report utilizes a new procedure based on epidermal stripping to analyse unlabelled skin fatty acids. This technique was applied to the study of human dry skin treated with blackcurrant seed oil, an essential fatty acid rich lipid also containing γ linolenic acid.In human dry skin the usual fatty acids were found in the stratum corneum as in normal skin outer layers. Among the saturated series no significant difference was observed in the C16 chain but a smaller quantity of C18:0 was detected. In the unsaturated series a marked fall of linoleic acid as well as a higher level of C16:1 in the stratum corneum appeared as the major significant events that could characterize dry skin. γ linolenic acid was detectable neither in normal nor in dry skin. α linolenic acid was found but not consistently.After multiple applications of blackcurrant seed oil in an emulsion preparation, impregnation of the stratum corneum was complete, and essential or other fatty acids contained in the oil (particularly linoleic and linolenic acids) were found in combination with endogenous lipids. Possibly they contribute to enhance the protective effect of the stratum corneum.
Odours, emotion and psychophysiology
Authors: VAN TOLLER S. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe basis for the relationship between emotion and olfaction is reviewed and discussed from both the theoretical and experimental approach. Published studies include olfactory memory, human semiochemicals, and olfactory communication between humans. Evidence for the olfactory system being a special emotion sense has not been conclusive. One limitation has been the verbal paucity of subjects in describing smells. This has led to the development of psychophysiological techniques involving the use of subvert bioelectrical signals generated within the body. A number of techniques involving measurement of the electrical activity of the brain are discussed. These involve evoked olfactory potentials (OEP), contingent negative voltage (CNV) and brain electrical activity mapping (BEAM). These new techniques involving the electrical activity of the cortex are helping us to unravel the complexities of olfaction and emotion.
In vivo transepidermal water loss and skin surface hydration in assessment of moisturization and soap effects
Authors: WILSON D. , BERARDESCA E. , MAIBACH H. I. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisTransepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface water loss (SSWL) and water content of the stratum corneum are utilized to assess the hydration effects of moisturizers and soaps. The relationship among these parameters may help differentiating hydration obtained via occlusion or by water‐holding in the stratum corneum. Furthermore, skin function (hydration, dehydration, barrier damage) can be studied comparing the data obtained with these techniques. In this study, the effects of glycerol, petrolatum, soaps and commercial moisturizers on the skin are investigated and discussed.
The behaviour of cationic cellulose derivatives containing fatty quat groups
Authors: JONES R. T. , BROWN C. A. 
Published: May 2007

SummaryThe use of trimethyl quat cellulose derivatives in hair and skin care products is well established. The introduction of fatty quat groups into cellulose can modify the surface activity and conditioning behaviour. The present study was directed to a coconyl dimethyl quat derivative of cellulose, with an average molecular weight of approximately 100,000. A modified version of the rubine dye test, capable of giving quantitative results, was used to seek information on substantivity and tendency for build‐up on hair. The evidence presented indicates that this surface‐active cellulose polymer exhibits a plateau maximum value for substantivity which is achieved by a single conditioning treatment as an aqueous solution with a concentration of 1% or higher. The same plateau value can be approached by successive shampoo/conditioning cycles at lower polymer concentrations. This in‐built mechanism for preventing excessive build‐up from aqueous solutions is compared with the behaviour of other cationic cellulose polymers of higher average molecular weight.
Chemical stability and microbiological reply of preservative systems in cosmetics: a direct correlation
Authors: BENASSI C. A. , RETTORE A. , SEMENZATO A. , BETTERO A. , CERINI R. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe results of a chemical/microbiological comparative study on different preservative mixtures are reported. The aim of the investigation was to ascertain whether there was a correlation between chemical stability and microbiological activity.The studies were carried out directly in cosmetic emulsions preserved with different mixtures of Prevan, Bronopol, Germall 115 and Kathon CG.The degree of microbiological activity was tested with respect to E. coli, Ps. aeruginosa, Asp. niger, S. aureus using the agar diffusion test, over a period of 400 days.The chemical behaviour of the different mixtures was evaluated by HPLC in reverse phase mode. The emulsion samples were directly injected after dilution with a THF/H2O) (9/1) solvent mixture.
In vitro studies on the effect of linear alkyl benzene sulphonate on serum albumin
Authors: JAVED SEEMA , MISRA VIRENDRA , VISWANATHAN P. N. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisLinear alkyl benzene sulphonate was found to influence the thermal and fluorescence profile of serum albumin in vitro, indicating the possibility of protein‐detergent interaction in the skin irritancy of detergents.
Screening tests of free radical scavengers for preventing sun‐accelerated cutaneous ageing
Authors: BONNE C. , MULLER A. , GREGOIRE C. , SINCHOLLE D. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisFree radical formation has been shown to occur in UV‐irradiated skin and a large body of evidence suggests that these reactive agents are responsible for sun‐accelerated cutaneous ageing. The paper describes two tests for screening free radical scavengers potentially capable of inhibiting photo‐induced skin alterations. They are based on analysis of thiobarbituric acid‐reactive materials either in an acellular model in vitro or in the epidermis of rose bengal‐sensitized mice after white light irradiation. The tests were illustrated with silymarin, a potent vegetable free radical scavenger.
Action of skin penetration enhancers—the Lipid Protein Partitioning theory
Authors: BARRY B. W. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisSkin penetration enhancers reversibly decrease the barrier resistance of the stratum corneum and allow drugs to penetrate more readily to the viable tissues and the systemic circulation. This paper presents a general theory for accelerant activity based on possible alterations at the molecular level of the components of the horny layer. Within the intercellular route, enhancers may interact at the polar head groups of the lipids, within aqueous regions between lipid head groups, and between the lipophilic tails of the bilayer. Inside the corneocyte it is the keratin fibrils and their associated water that are the targets. High concentrations of solvents may also alter partitioning processes. Because of the involvement of lipid and protein modifications, together with partitioning phenomena, the scheme of possible enhancer interactions has been termed the Lipid Protein Partitioning (LPP) theory. This theory is applied specifically to water, Azone, dimethylsulphoxide, dimethylformamide, 2–pyrrolidone, N‐methyl‐2–pyrrolidone, oleic acid, decylmethylsulphoxide, sodium lauryl sulphate and propylene glycol.
Ageing and free radical formation. A biochemical approach to evaluate the efficacy of cosmetic preparations
Authors: MIGNINI E. , GIANI P. , LANGLOIS G. C. M. , PANTAROTTO C. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA new method is described for studying the in vivo formation of oxygen reactive species (free radicals) in humans after exposure to UV radiation. The procedure is based on the quantitative determination in urine of (i) metabolic products of pentane, a hydrocarbon formed during lipid peroxidation, and (ii) thymine hydroxylated bases and deoxyribonucleosides as indices of DNA repair that has taken place. Creams containing UV filters protect the organism against free radical formation. Subjects using such cosmetic preparations during complete body tanning sessions do, in fact, have reduced urinary excretion of 2‐pentanol and hydroxythmine derivatives.
Acetylene‐derived polymers and their applications in hair and skin care
Authors: PETTER P. J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisSince the introduction over 30 years ago of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) as the first synthetic hairspray resin, acetylene‐derived polymers have found wide and increasing applications in the cosmetics and toiletries industry. This review covers the two main classes of acetylenic polymers. In the first class, in which the chemistry may be traced back to reaction of acetylene with formaldehyde, are included PVP homopolymers and copolymers of VP with vinyl acetate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactam and styrene. In the second class, stemming from reaction of acetylene with methanol, are the poly (vinyl methyl ether/maleic acid) monoester resins.
Non‐invasive assessment of stratum corneum structure and function
Authors: MARKS R. , EDWARDS C. , BLACK D. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisMethods for the study of the stratum corneum in situ are described and their application to clinical problems and cosmetic science are discussed. In vivo measurements of the thickness of skin and the components of skin can be made using high frequency pulsed ultrasound. Improved resolution of the device should allow measurement of epidermal thickness, and even that of the stratum corneum, which may vary with hydration.The protective ability of the stratum corneum can be estimated in a number of ways, the most familiar technique being transepidermal water loss measurements. Mechanical properties of the stratum corneum have been widely investigated in vivo by numerous researchers. A recent technique devised by us to deform the stratum corneum using an extendable metal frame has been used on patients with ichthyotic disorders. The deformation or compliance of the skin surface has been measured using profilometric methods, and compared to normal individuals. The results appear to be in agreement with the loss of flexural ability experienced by ichthyotic patients.Other mechanical methods more usually involve the measurement of the forces generated by skin while undergoing extension. Three techniques are described which have been used to investigate hydrational change with emollient application.Finally, the phenomenon of desquamation is discussed and methods presented for its evaluation. Passive collection of corneocytes using chambers is useful for estimation of the rates of desquamation, but are laborious and inconvenient. Forced desquamation using the desquamator enables rapid controlled harvesting of corneocytes. In addition to this, the dansyl chloride fluorescence technique has been adopted for estimation of stratum corneum kinetics using visual comparison and fluorimetric techniques.These techniques require further refinement and validation, but the tests available now are nonetheless important in understanding the biology and pharmacology of the stratum corneum.
The measurement of hair colour
Authors: GERRARD W. A. 
Published: May 2007

SummaryThe colour of the hair of 65 subjects was measured using a Minolta Chromameter model CR200. Readings were taken by holding the unit against the back of the subject's head, and recorded using the L*a*b* system of colour co‐ordinates.All subjects had hair in which yellow and red (rather than blue or green) dominated. The lightness (L*) of all hair fell in the range 17–67, the redness (a*) in the range 0–6 and the yellowness (b*) 0–20. These limits can be seen as effectively outlining the range of colours which can be said to be natural.The chromameter gave rapid and reproducible results on hair in situ and was easy to use. The method should be of use to those who wish to quantify the effects brought about by bleaching or dyeing formulations.
Progressive evaluation of skin irritancy of cosmetics using human volunteers
Authors: JENKINS H. L. , ADAMS M. G. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisCosmetics and toiletries should not elicit adverse reactions in use. Neither should they cause unacceptable effects if mis‐used. Reliable prediction of these product attributes can be achieved by subjecting human volunteers to typical product exposure and to grossly exaggerated exposure. However, to ensure that volunteers do not sustain harmful effects there needs to be a cautiously progressive programme of testing.There must be adequate data on record to support exposure of human skin to the test material. The first contact with human skin should be in a small area, for short duration, and be very closely observed. When the effects are well within acceptable limits the exposure can be extended. As information accumulates, the application procedure can evolve towards simulation of the intended use of the product under controlled conditions, and eventual free use in consumer tests; and also towards exaggerated use to evaluate potential irritancy, using exaggerated frequency of use, exaggerated product concentration, or occlusive cover to promote skin penetration and enhance irritancy.Skin reactions under exaggerated exposure conditions do not necessarily mean that a product would be unacceptable under normal use conditions or when misused predictably. Therefore, appropriate standard products must be included in tests to provide relevant comparison when significant skin reaction does occur.Data will be presented to demonstrate progressive evaluation of irritancy of cosmetics and toiletries, based on expert assessment of visible skin reactions and on analysis of spontaneous and prompted comments about subjective effects, and including appropriate attention to the ethical requirements for tests involving human volunteers.
New oil‐gelling agents for cosmetics: formation mechanism of oil gels
Authors: FUKASAWA JUN‐ICHI , TSUTSUMI HISAO , ISHIDA ATSUO 
Published: May 2007

SummaryNew oil‐gelling agents have been developed composed of a long‐chain dialkyl phosphate (DP) surfactant and aluminium ion or multinuclear aluminum ion (MAI) which provide good oil‐gel systems. One such gelling agent is the aluminum salt of DP (DP‐Al) prepared as a precipitate by mixing DP with aluminum chloride in aqueous solutions. Addition of small amounts of the salt to non‐polar oils led to hardening of the oil solutions at temperature below the melting point of the alkyl chain (Tc) of DP‐Al. Results obtained by X‐ray diffraction techniques and with scanning electron microscopy (SEM) revealed that linearly‐polymerized assemblies of DP‐Al expand in oils three‐dimensionally, which suggests that the excellent stability of the gel systems arises from the highly ordered structure. The gelling agent of DP‐Al offered the ideal rheological property to waxy cosmetic products such as lipsticks. The complexes of DP with MAI particles (1 nm diameter) of aluminum chlorohydrate, Al13O4(OH)24(H2O)12CI7, provided the ideal thixotropic behaviour in non‐polar oils. The DP‐MAI particle complexes were found to interact weakly by cohesive forces which makes a highly ordered structure of the DP‐MAI particle complexes. The DP‐MAI particle complexes gave excellent stability and transparency to cosmetic products such as w/o creams.
Assessment of surfactant cytotoxicity: comparison with the Draize eye test
Authors: TACHON P. , COTOVIO J. , DOSSOU K. G. , PRUNIERAS M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisWe have compared the in vitro cellular toxicity and the in vivo ocular irritation potency of 16 surfactants (7 non ionics, 3 anionics, 2 amphoterics, 4 cationics) ranking from very weakly irritant to strongly irritant. In vitro, the cellular toxicity was estimated on Chinese hamster lung fibroblasts (V79) using a cell mortality test and a cell growth inhibition test. For each surfactant, a lethal concentration 50% without foetal calf serum (LC.50–0) and with 10% foetal calf serum (LC50–I0), as well as the concentration required to reduce 50% of the growth (CI.50) were determined. In vivo, each surfactant was applied directly to the cornea of six albino rabbits. The maximal ocular irritation score (I0 max) and the ocular irritation score obtained seven days later (I0 J7) were collected. Comparison of in vitro results with those obtained in vivo showed good correlations, particularly when I0 max and the difference (LC.50–10 ‐ LC50–0) were considered (r= 0.845, P<0.001). These results suggest that the use of cell culture tests as pre‐screening systems to appreciate eye irritation potency of surfactants could be a reliable alternative method in order to reduce the use of the Draize rabbit eye test. They can provide a better knowledge of the irritative process induced by surfactants (cellular toxicity and protein interaction potency).
Pitfalls in the in vitro determination of sunscreen protection factors using broad band ultraviolet radiation detectors and solar simulating radiation
Authors: DIFFEY B. L. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisReliable in vitro techniques for assessing sunscreen protection factors have relied upon obtaining the forward scattering transmission spectrum of the test compound applied to a suitable substrate such as mouse or human epidermis. A theoretical analysis of alternative techniques using broad‐band ultraviolet radiation detectors in conjunction with a source of simulated sunlight shows that the method is likely to yield unreliable values of sun protection factors and the reasons for this are discussed.
Activity of capryloyl collagenic acid against bacteria involved in acne
Authors: FOURNIAT J. , BOURLIOUX P. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisCapryloyl collagenic acid (Lipacide C8Co) has similar bacteriostatic activity in vitro to that of benzoyl peroxide towards the bacteria found in acne lesions (Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Propionibacterium acnes) (MIC between 1 and 4 mg ml−1 for C8Co, and between 0.5 and 5 mg ml−1 for benzoyl peroxide). The presence of Emulgine M8 did not affect the bacteriostatic activity of C8Co. A 4% w/v solution of C8Co (incorporating Emulgine M8) fulfilled the criteria for an antiseptic preparation as laid down by the French Pharmacopoeia (10th Edition), and had a spectrum 5 bactericidal activity according to the French Standard AFNOR NF T 72–151. The excellent cutaneous tolerance of capryloyl collagenic acid would indicate that an aqueous solution might be of value for topical treatment of the bacterial component of acne.
Use and properties of perfluoropolymethyl‐isopropylethers in skin and hair cleaning; system stabilization and interference with sebum redistribution on skin and hair
Authors: RIGANO L. , SAVONELLI S. , BENCINI P. L. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisPerfluoro‐polymethyl‐isopropyl ethers (PPIE) are known for their low surface tension and spreading characteristics. Their use in detergent systems was difficult because of their insolubility in most fluids (except fluorinated ones), but microdispersions have been obtained with surfactant blends, the compositions of which minimize the interfacial tension. Thickeners have been tried in order to improve suspension stability during shelf life. Spreading of PPIE has been studied by using in vivo and in vitro evaluations, both on hair and on skin. Results are discussed, as these systems could improve greasy skin conditions and decrease the rebound effect.