bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
A Study of the Causes of Variation in the Acid Dye-Combining Capacity of Human Hair
Authors: Robbins Clarence R. , Scott George V. , Barnhurst James D. 
Published: March 2007

The capacity for human hair to combine with acid dye is rapidly and precisely determined by a modification of Maclaren's method for measuring the equilibrium uptake of Orange II from formic acid solution. The uptake determined in this manner provides a reliable estimate of the number of "free" basic sites in keratin fibers, which is shown to be a good index of chemical alteration produced by current bleaching products. A collection of hair samples with a known history of prior chemical treatment, from 30 female Caucasians, was examined by this method. Although significant differences in equilibrium dye pickup were found among 20 samples that had not been permanent-waved or bleached, the range was from only 0.67 to 0.77 mmoles/g. Permanent-waved samples were also in this range. Bleached hair, however, showed a marked reduction in Orange II pickup, the range being 0.30 to 0.63 mmoles/g. These data, together with amino acid analysis data and results from differential infrared spectroscopy, indicate that a primary reaction during the bleaching of hair with current bleach products is the conversion of cystine residues to cysteic acid residues. Distal ends of undamaged hair (unbleached, unwaved, undyed) showed a significantly lower uptake of Orange II than proximal ends, which is presumably a result of weathering.
Bilateral Structure of Cotton Fibers as Revealed by Enzymatic Degradation
Authors: Kassenbeck P. 
Published: March 2007

The morphological appearance of cotton fibers scoured at 100 and 140°C then subjected to a treatment with cellulase, has been examined as a function of the enzymatic action time. The rate of enzymatic digestion varies according to the region of the secondary wall under consideration, and examina tion of the degraded fibers by optical and scanning electron microscopy clearly shows the bilateral structure of cotton. Four zones can be distinguished in the secondary wall, which differ in their accessibility to reagents. These differences can be attributed to local variations in the packing density of the fibrillar structure, caused by the mechanical forces which appear in the fibers during their drying. The effect of scouring at a higher temperature is to increase the rate of enzymatic degradation without affecting the relative and important differences in the resistance to biodegradation of the different regions of the secondary wall.
Recent Developments in the Chemistry of Cross-Linking Agents
Authors: Petersen Harro 
Published: March 2007

Kinetic and thermodynamic studies of the reaction of urea with formaldehyde have led to a technically feasible synthesis of hitherto unknown trialkoxymethyl ureas, particularly trimethoxymethyl urea. Fabrics cured with trimethoxymethyl urea exhibit better resistance to acid hydrolysis than those finished with dimethylol urea. Reactivities, hydrolysis stabilities and other applied properties are described in relation to various reaction parameters. Investigations of the equilibrium states and formation and dissociation constants led to the discovery that, when a monocarboxylic acid amide is reacted with at least two molecules of formaldehyde in highly concentrated solutions, dime thylol compounds can be converted in high yields, by acetalation with alcohols, to the stable N, N-dialkoxymethyl mono carboxylic acid amides. Chlorine-and hydrolysis-resistant, nonwrinkling finishes can be obtained with the N,N-dimethoxy methyl monocarboxylic acid amides just like the dimethylol carbamates. Methylol compounds of 4,5-dihydroxyethylene ureas and of 4-hydroxy (alkoxy)-5, 5-dialkylpropylene ureas occupy a special position, since not only the methylol groups, but also the ring hydroxy or alkoxy groups can be substituted by O- cellulose residues under certain reaction conditions. 4,5-Dihydroxy (alkoxy)-ethylene ureas undergo conversion reactions in acid media, particularly at elevated tempera tures, and hydantoin derivatives and strongly colored intermediate products are formed after passing through the 4-hy droxy (alkoxy)-imidazolone stage. While the 4,5-dihydroxy (alkoxy)-ethylene ureas are practically useless for a wrinkle-free finish, and their monomethylol compounds are only conditionally suitable, finishes with good characteristics can be achieved with the monomethylol compounds of 4-hydroxy (alkoxy)-5.5-dialkylpropylene ureas. The kinetics and reaction mechanisms of curing with 4, 5- dihydroxy (alkoxy)-ethylene ureas and with 4-hydroxy (alkoxy)-5,5-dialkylpropylene ureas in relation to various reaction parameters are discussed in detail. Finally, the kinetics and mechanisms of crosslinking with N-methylol compounds are briefly considered.
Graft Polymerization of Vinyl and Acrylic Monomers in Phosphorylated Cotton Fabric
Authors: Gallagher Dudley M. 
Published: March 2007

The ion-binding capacity of cotton was readily increased by heating fabric with alkali phosphates to effect phosphoryla tion. Subsequent contact with solutions of redox polymerization initiators then bound the cationic component of the ini tiator to the cellulose. Graft polymerization of olefinic monomers in this phosphorylated, ion-exchanged fabric occurred with high speed and efficiency. The polymers formed were for the most part durable to solvents, acid, and alkali. At high weight gains, increased flex- abrasion resistance was imparted by polymerization of methyl acrylate in phosphorylated cotton. Polymerization of bifunctional monomers such as glycidyl acrylate or N-methylolacrylamide within the fibers was similarly accomplished. Delayed curing with acid catalysts then produced cross links between polymer and cellulose. Wrinkle recovery angles of 265°-285° (W+F) were observed at weight gains of 4-11%. Mixtures of monofunctional and bifunctional monomers could be used in varying ratios, permitting the proportion of cellulose-reactive groups in the resulting graft copolymer to be varied.
Reaction of Cellulosic Fabrics to Air Contaminated with Sulfur Dioxide
Authors: Zeronian S.H. 
Published: March 2007

Fabrics made from cotton, viscose rayon, or high-wet-modulus rayon were exposed to air or to air containing 0.1 ppm sulfur dioxide and simultaneously to light from a xenon arc lamp. The presence of sulfur dioxide caused an additional loss in the breaking strength of yarn taken from the cotton and regenerated cellulose fabrics, compared to the loss in light and air alone. The chemical modifications that occurred in the fabrics were followed by measuring copper numbers, carboxyl contents, and fluidities. The changes that were observed were compared to similar samples degraded by hy drolysis in dilute sulfuric acid. In a set of preliminary experiments, fabric made from cotton containing a durable-press finish was also exposed to the same conditions as the cotton and regenerated cellulose materials. There was no loss in strength of yarn from the resin- treated fabric, when exposed to light plus air or to light plus air containing sulfur dioxide. In fact, exposure to light and air caused a significant increase in breaking load.
Moisture Characteristics of Some Knit Fabrics Made From Blend Yarns 1
Authors: Knight B.A. , Hersh S.P. , Brown P. 
Published: March 2007

The moisture responses of plain jersey and 1 X 1 rib fabrics constructed from synthetic fiber-cotton blend yarns have been studied. The fabric responses include water vapor transmission, moisture imbibition, moisture regain, and air permeability. Measurements of the fabric strength and shrinkage are also reported. The fabrics were constructed from 24/1 yarn of cotton-nylon, cotton-polyester, and cotton-acrylic blends in 100/0, 80/20, 60/40, 50/50, 40/60, 20/80, and 0/100 percent. A simplified technique for measuring water vapor transmission through fabric was used to provide a means for com paring the blends. It was found that water vapor is transmitted through single thicknesses of plain jersey fabric faster than through equivalent rib fabrics, and significant increases in water vapor transmission occur as the synthetic com ponent of the cotton-synthetic blend is increased. Even greater relative increases in air permeability were observed with increasing synthetic-fiber content. It was, therefore, concluded that moisture vapor flow through knit fabric occurs almost entirely through the fabric interstices, and the hygroscopic nature of the fibers in the blend plays a minor roll in the moisture vapor transfer through fabric. Thus, it can be expected that garment comfort, at least as correlated with water and air permeability, should not be adversely affected by the addition of synthetic fibers to the blend. Moisture regain, moisture imbibition, and shrinkage decreased as the synthetic fiber content of the fabrics increased.
Adhesion and Autohesion in the System Clay-Cellulose
Authors: Schott Hans 
Published: March 2007

Adhesion between sodium montmorillonite and cellulose was investigated by three techniques. (1) Beaten cellulose pulp was treated with aqueous clay suspensions to cover the fibers completely with a thin clay film. The adhesion was estimated by measuring the mechanical properties of handsheets made from this pulp. (2) Finely dispersed cellulose was added to montmorillonite suspensions in amounts up to 77 volume %. The mixed suspensions were cast into thin layers and dried to films. The clay-cellulose adhesion was estimated from the mechanical properties of these mixed films. (3) Cellophane strips were embedded in clay matrices, while other cellophane strips were bonded together. The stresses required to detach cellophane strips from the clay and the stresses required to rupture bonds between pairs of cellophane strips are measurements of the adhesion between clay and cellulose and of the autohesion of cellulose, respectively, and permit a direct comparison of the two, Results obtained with the first two methods indicate that the cellulose-clay adhesion is at least as great as the autohesion of cellulose. According to the third method, it is greater.
Microscopical Studies of Cottons Reacted in Vapor Phase
Authors: Cannizzaro Anna M. , Goynes Wilton R. , Rollins Mary L. , Keating Esmond J. 
Published: March 2007

Morphological effects of the modification of cotton by vapor-phase treatments were studied by light and electron microscopy. Observations were made of etherified, grafted, and cross-linked cottons. The uniformity of reaction was followed by swelling whole fibers in cupriethylenediamine hydroxide (Cuene) solution and observing the swelling and dissolution along the length of the fiber. In addition, ultrathin sections were prepared and dissolution characteristics of the sections, after immersion in Cuene, were observed with the electron microscope. Observations of cotton cross-linked with methanol hemiformal in the presence of SO2, in an open constant-volume reactor, gave indications that little reaction had occurred; reacted areas observed were at the periphery of the fiber. Samples of cotton cross-linked with vapors of paraformaldehyde, with formic acid as catalyst, appeared to be cross-linked throughout the fine structure of the fiber; when HCl or SO2 was used as the catalyst in this reaction, peripheral crosslinking was observed. When fabrics were treated for long periods of time with formalin in the presence of SO2, the reaction seemed to penetrate the entire structure of the fiber; after short periods of treatment it was peripheral. Large amounts of HCl with formalin resulted in some limited cross-linking of the fiber. When cotton was treated in a closed, constant-pressure reactor with formalin in the presence of SO2, the cellulose was reacted throughout the fiber. Observations of a series of cottons impregnated with 2-hydroxyethyl carbamate exposed to butanol hemiformal vapor indicated that the degree of penetration of the cross-linking agent was dependent upon the length of time the samples were exposed to the cross-linking agent in the vapor phase. Examination of sections from cotton grafted with acrylic acid revealed that the material remaining after solution in Cuene was not fibrillar, but rather one of spongy character. Hydroxyethylation made the fiber sensitive to a dimethylolethylene urea (DMEU) cross-linking treatment.
Effects of Shrinkproofing and Other Chemical Treatments on the Epicuticle of Wool
Authors: Leeder J.D. , Bradbury J.H. 
Published: March 2007

Treatment of wool with degradative shrinkproofing reagents or extraction with ethanol or formic acid does not prevent the occurrence of the Allworden reaction. Thus, the epicuticle is not disrupted by these treatments (as has been often stated) and this agrees well with its known chemical inertness. Treatment with anhydrous potassium t-hutoxide produces shrink-resistance and harsh handle but no appreciable loss of weight, change in mechanical properties, modification of the Allwörden reaction, or modification of the surface, as shown by scanning electron microscopy. We believe this to be the first documented example of a shrink-resist treatment which is due solely to modification of the surface of the epicuticle.
Evaluation of the Properties and Clothing Comfort of the Scandinavian Ski Dress in Wear Trials
Authors: Vokac Z. , Køpke V. , Keül P. 
Published: March 2007

Wear trials of a woven and a knitted Scandinavian cross-country ski dress with identical underwear and other garments were performed in a climatic chamber on 5 subjects who walked at -9°C on a treadmill with a 5% grade for a total of 2 hr, changing the velocity of the walk every 20 mins from 4.1 to 6.7 km/hr. The energy output corresponded to 200, and 350 kcal/m2hr, respectively. One-half of the produced sweat did not evaporate during the experiments and remained trapped in the clolh ing. Though the dress proper and its underwear covered two-thirds of the body surface area (trunk, arms, thighs), more than one-half of the not evaporated sweat was found in the garments of the peripheral area (head, hands, legs, feet). The vest contained a high amount of water, and the same partial pressure of water vapor was recorded in the spaces on either side of it, indicating that the beginning of the effective diffusion gradient through the clothing was shifted from the skin to the outer side of the vest. In the absence of wind in the trials, the clinging knitted dress assembly had a higher thermal resistance than the loosely cut woven one. But, subjectively, the woven assembly was felt to be warmer than the knitted which contained more trapped sweat. The rectal and skin temperature, the temperature and humidity in the spaces between the clothing, and the subjective thermal and humidity sensations reflected well, by regular oscillations, the cyclic changes in the intensity of metabolism. The general thermal sensations correlated better with the weighted average of the rectal and mean skin temperature than with either temperature alone. However, in the quick walking periods, the general thermal sensations were the same as the sensations in the peripheral body area, while the rating of the sensations in the central area under the dress proper was distinctly lower. Special attention should be paid to the role of the peripheral parts of the body in the evalua tion of clothing comfort.
A Flame-Retardant Finish Based upon Tris(hydroxymethyl)phosphine
Authors: Daigle D.J. , Pepperman A.B. , Drake G.L. , Reeves W.A. 
Published: March 2007

A new flame-retardant finish utilizing tris(hydroxymethyl)phosphine (THP), trimethylolmelamine (TMM), one and a half methylolurea (11/2 MU), and a mixed catalyst (MgCl2.6H 2O-citric acid) has been developed. The process con sisted of padding cotton fabrics through an aqueous solution containing 14.3% THP, 13.35% 11/2 MU, 4.45% TMM, 1% mixed catalyst, and 1% wetting agent. Sateen padded with 28% solids level solutions (exclusive of wetting agent and catalyst) and printcloth padded with 32% solids level solutions passed the vertical flame test after 50 launderings. Treated fabrics had good hand and appear ance. Losses in breaking strength were approximately 10% and tearing strength losses were of the same order of magni tude for wash-wear fabric.
Service Soiling of Wool, Man-Made Fiber, and Blended Carpets
Authors: Benisek L. 
Published: March 2007

A comparison of carpets of identical construction made from different fibers or blends in actual service soiling condi tions shows that wool carpets have much superior soiling and soil release in shampooing properties than synthetic fibers and their blends. The merit order of the fibers and blends tested was as follows: wool > wool/nylon 80/20 > > > continuous filament nylon > Evian > Terylene > Evlan/nylon 80/20 > Courtelle/Evlan 50/50 > Courtelle/Evlan/nylon 40/40/20 > ny lon > Courtelle, Acrilan. There was very good agreement between instrumental and visual evaluation of soiling. With all the fibers or blends tested, loop-pile carpets show higher apparent soiling than cut pile carpets, probably because of the higher light scat tering coefficient of the latter.
Ionizable Groups in Fibers and Their Role in Dyeing. An Examination of the Sorption of Anionic Dyes by Cellulosic Fibers and Films
Authors: McGregor R. 
Published: March 2007

The development of a simple but general approach to equilibrium dyeing has stimulated a re-examination of existing data on the sorption of anionic dyes by, cellulosic fibeis. New data are also analyzed.The volume term V of the conventional theories has been replaced by the concept of an average practical ionic dis tribution coethcient ( K1)Pfor the inorganic ions in the system. ( K1)Pcan be measured independently of the dye sorp tion data.The conventional theories ignore the acidic groups in cellulosic fibers and appear to use incorrect values for V. For these reasons the conventional theories appear to be seriously in error. A direct experimental test of these conclusions is proposed.
Influence of Fiber Geometry on the Punching-Force Characteristics of Webs During Needle Felting
Authors: Goswami Bhuvenesh C. , Beck Tamas , Scardino Francis L. 
Published: March 2007

This study describes the effects of fiber surface and geometric properties on the punching-force characteristics of webs during the needling process. A small needle loom assembly (consisting of a needle board, stripper, and a bed plate unit) mounted on an Instron tensile tester was used to measure the punching forces generated during the needling process. The punching speed used in this investigation was much lower than that employed in industrial needle looming. The punching force encountered during the second cycle (with and without recovery times between the successive cycles) was used to characterize the efficiency of the needling and fiber reorientation process. It was found that fiber linear density has a profound effect on the punching force of polyester fiber webs, while surface roughness, cross-sectional shape, length and crimp seemed to have little or no effect on the punching-force values. How ever, the interaction of crimp and length, linear density and crimp, and linear density and length had a significant influence on the punching force. Measurements of the punching force in successive cycling experiments showed that, in addition to fiber linear density, fiber length, crimp and cross-sectional shape also significantly affected the recovery behavior of the reoriented fibers.
Proportion of Fiber Strength Utilized in the Single Yarn
Authors: Iyengar R.L.N. , Gupta A.K. 
Published: March 2007

The proportion of fiber strength utilized in the yarn spun under standard procedures of spinning adopted at the Cotton Technological Research Laboratory and at the United States Department of Agriculture Laboratories has been examined. It has been found that the proportion of fiber strength utilized in CTRL spun yarns of lower counts is lower than that utilized by USDAL—spun yarns of similar counts. However, there is little difference in the case of higher counts. The reduction in the former case has been attributed to adoption of the three-roller system of drafting in spinning at CTRL, and of the double-apron high-draft system at the USDAL, for lower counts. For higher counts the same system is em ployed at both places. Incidently, it has been found that improved length and fineness of fibers increase the proportion of fiber strength utilized; however, the influence of fiber tenacity depends on the system of spinning adopted.
Fluorescent Whitening Agents
Authors: Holt L.A. , Milligan B. , Wolfram L.J. 
Published: March 2007

Immersion of fluorescently whitened wool in aqueous solutions of reducing agents during exposure to simulated sunlight has been shown to retard or prevent photoyellowing. The most effective reducing agents of the wide range examined were thioglycolic acid, sodium sulfite, and trishydroxymethylphosphine. Less photodecomposition of trytophan and histidine residues occurs during irradiation of either whitened or unwhitened wool in solutions of these reagents than in water, which may explain, in part, the role of reducing agents in inhibiting photoyellowing. In contrast, a study of bleached wool containing the bis(triazinylamino)stilbene whitener (I) showed that reducing agents do not affect signifi icantly the course or extent of photodecomposition of the whitener. Reducing agents were less effective inhihitors of yellowing when padded onto wool and dried than when used in aqueous solution. However, treatment of fluorescently whitened wool with tetrakishydroxymethylphosphonium chloride (THPC) by padding was found to provide good protection against yellowing in sunlight, especially for exposure in the wet state. Unfortunately the protective effect was not very durable to washing. The sulfonated triphenyl phosphine (II) was substantive to wool but provided good protection against yellowing only at high concentrations. Two water-soluble antioxidants of the hindered phenol type were also tested but were found to be ineffective.
In Vivo Cutaneous and Perceived Comfort Response to Fabric
Authors: Markee N.L. , Hatch K.L. , Maibach H.I. , Barker R.L. , Radhakrishnaiah P. , Woo S.S. 
Published: March 2007

We report on the perceived comfort data collected while ten female subjects exercised in the hot, humid environment ( 29.4°C, 75% RH) wearing garments made from the three experimental knit fabrics. These findings are related to the fabric thermophys iological comfort data reported in Part I, the mechanical and surface related comfort data in Part II, and the skin alteration data in Part III of this series. At four times during the wear protocol (after acclimation, after 10 minutes of wear, after 40 minutes of exercise, and after 20 minutes of rest following exercise), subjects were asked to indicate overall comfort and thermal, wetness, and contact sensations. There was no difference between the fabrics for wetness or thermal sensation, a result explainable in terms of the extremely small differences in water and heat transport data reported in Part I. The thermal insulation, permeability index, and comfort limit values we calculated predict that differences in perceived thermal and wetness sensation should be minimal. Skin temperature was a significant determinant of perceived thermal comfort in our regression model, but capillary blood flow was not. The regression model for wetness sensation showed that stratum corneum water content and evaporative water loss were statistically significant determinants. Use of wetness-related and contact sensation descriptors differed for the three experimental fabrics. Differences in the wetness-related descriptors appear related to the percent water uptake of the fabrics during exercise. Fiber denier and fabric mechanical and surface feature data were useful in explaining the difference in contact sensations. The fabrics differed in perceived overall comfort. In the regression analysis, capillary blood flow was the only physio logical factor with a statistically significant effect on overall comfort. We suspect a link between the mechanical and surface features and capillary blood flow.