bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Anti‐static properties of some cationic polymers used in hair care products
Authors: PATEL C. U. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisAnti‐static properties of cationic polymers on hair have been measured by using an electrostatic voltmeter. Comparisons are made with conventional cationic surfactants. Behaviour of cationic polymers from a cationic base and an anionic base have been explained. Experiments are performed to arrive at the hypothesis that cationic polymers form a complex with anionic detergent and that this cation‐anion complex solubilizes in excess of anionic detergent, but on dilution with water it forms a turbid solution. Propriétés anti‐statiques de certains polymères cationiques utilisés dans les produits de soins pour les cheveux
Percutaneous absorption of 2‐nitro‐p‐phenylenediamine
Authors: HOWES D. , BLACK J. G. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisStudies have been done on the absorption and metabolism of the hair colourant 2‐nitro‐p‐phenylenediamine (2‐NPPD) in rats with particular reference to skin penetration.When [14C]2‐NPPD was given orally or injected intraperitoneally into male and female rats, excretion was rapid and mainly in the faeces (60%) and urine (35%). No radioactivity was measurable in the expired air. At 3 days after dosing, approximately 2% of the dose was retained in the body.Application of [14C]2‐NPPD in ethanol to the clipped skin of rats gave a high skin penetration. Male rats absorbed less (11.7 μg cm‐2) through the skin than did female rats (24.6 μg cm‐2).Application of [14C]2‐NPPD in a solution of a hair colourant product base to the clipped skin of rats gave a high penetration if the skin was occluded or not rinsed. Penetration was much reduced after rinsing and protection by non‐occlusive patches. With these latter conditions, skin penetration in clipped rats treated with a 0.5% (w/v) solution of [14C]2‐NPPD doubled to 6.1 μg cm‐2 when the contact time was increased from 5 to 30 minutes, increased two to three times after two and three repeated applications, increased in proportion to the applied concentration and was reduced by half when applied to unclipped skin.The metabolic pattern in urine from rats after different routes of administration showed only a trace of the parent [14C]2‐NPPD but six other radioactive components. The identity of these components has not yet been fully resolved. Blood levels of radio‐activity during 2 days after topical administration were low.Under realistic conditions of use by the consumer the calculated dose through the skin based on the experimental rat data is up to 10 μg/kg body weight per application of a semi‐permanent hair colourant product containing 1% of 2‐NPPD. L'adsorption transcutanée de la 2‐nitro‐p‐phenylenediamine On a étudié l'adsorption transcutanée et le métabolisme du colorant capillaire 2‐nitro‐p‐phenylènediamine (2‐NPPD) sur le rat.Lorsque la [14C]2‐NPPD est administrée par voie orale ou injectée par voie intra‐péritonéale sur des rats mâles et femelles, l'excrétion est rapide et principalement dans les fèces (60%) et dans les urines (35%). Il n'y a pas de radioactivité mesurable dans l'air expiré. Trois jours après l'administration, environ 2% de la dose est retenue dans l'organisme.
A new approach to assessing sweat production
Authors: MICHNIAK B. B. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisSince 1916 when Stillians (1) first reported that excessive axillary sweating could be reduced by the application of 25% aqueous aluminium chloride, sales of antiperspirant products have increased dramatically. In spite of many studies, the mechanism of action of these compounds has not been clearly elucidated (2). In most cases, investigations have been performed on animal foot pads, excised human biopsy specimens and skin samples in vivo (3). A model which eliminated problems encountered in whole body investigations (for example, influence of blood flow) would be preferable. One such method, introduced in part by Sato (3), has been investigated. Preliminary investigations suggest that this method could become useful in the evaluation of the mode of action of antiperspirants.Sweat production was induced using carbachol and methacholine in isolated rat plantar sweat glands. These were maintained in a suitable environment (modified Krebs‐Ringer bicarbonate at 38°C containing 30% w/v fresh rat serum). The output of sweat was measured every 5 minutes for 85 minutes and the maximal final volume obtained with any one gland was 23 nanolitres.Sweat production ceased on administration of appropriate concentrations of atropine or the withdrawal of calcium ions from the bathing fluid. Une nouvelle approche pour évaluer la transpiration
Influence of some humectants on the physical characteristics of solidified sodium stearate‐based sticks
Authors: KASSEM A. A. , MATTHA A. G. , EL–KHATIB G. K. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA comparative study was conducted on the influence of widely used humectants [glycerol, propylene glycol (PG), polyethylene glycols 400 and 600 (PEG 400 and PEG 600)] on the physical characteristics of solidified sodium stearate‐based sticks (SSSS).– Sticks prepared with PG or PEG 600 generally tended to be harder than the corresponding ones containing glycerol or PEG 400;– PG lowered the penetrability of the sticks while PEG 400 tended to increase it. Glycerol or PEG 600 produced sticks with intermediate penetrability values;– all investigated sticks showed practically acceptable softening points;– PG‐based sticks showed the lowest yield by abrasion values while PEG 400‐based ones showed the highest such values. Glycerol or PEG 600 produced sticks with intermediate behaviour;– sticks prepared with PG generally showed the highest tendency to dry by evaporation. There was a clear tendency towards reduction in evaporation with all the considered humectants, proportional to humectant concentration increase;– sticks formulated with PEGs showed considerably longer disintegration times than those formulated with glycerol or PG;– all sticks showed a plastic thixotropic flow behaviour;– static and dynamic yield value‐humectant concentration curves exhibited an almost identical behaviour with all investigated systems;– generally speaking, SSSS with PG showed the highest dynamic and static yield values while those formulated with PEG 400 showed the lowest such values; the presence of PEG 400 or glycerol resulted in sticks with intermediate behaviour in this respect;– PG produced sticks showing the highest thixotropic breakdown by shear; glycerol came next in this respect. PEG‐based sticks showed strong fluctuations in their thixotropic breakdown‐humectant concentration behaviour;– PG gave sticks with the highest plastic viscosity; they, indeed, had a tough texture. Glycerol or PEG 600‐based sticks had intermediate plastic viscosities and acceptable spreading characteristics. PEG 400‐based sticks had the lowest plastic viscosity and best spreading characteristics;– almost all sticks investigated proved to be stable after 18 months storage as far as
Use of fibroblast cell culture for the study of wound healing drugs
Authors: ADOLPHE M. , POINTET Y. , RONOT X. , WEPIERRE J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisWound healing involves the activity of epithelial cells and fibroblasts. This process is particularly accompanied by an increase in the proliferative capacity of the fibroblasts and by the biosynthesis of constitutive proteins of connective tissue. To study the action of wound healing drugs on the growth of fibroblasts, they were cultured in a medium containing a suboptimal concentration of serum. Several growth factors (eye‐derived growth factor and fibroblast growth factor) were compared with various healing products for their effects on the growth curve. Some products slightly increased the proliferation of fibroblasts, in comparison with the optimal growth obtained with growth factors. Intérêt des fibroblastes en culture dans l'étude de produits cicatrisants
ESR study of hair and melanin–keratin mixtures – the effects of temperature and light
Authors: ARNAUD RENÉ , PERBET GILLES , DEFLANDRE ANDRÉ , LANG GERARD 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe ESR spectrum of hair presents a symmetrical absorption band with the same characteristics as pure melanin (g= 2.0030; δH= 5 G). Between 250°K and 490°K, the intensity of the signal increases as for pure melanin. This variation may be explained by a change in the moisture content of hair as function of the temperature. Below 250° K, in a frozen medium, melanin‐water interactions remain constant and the number of radicals is no longer a function of temperature.Under exposure to light of hair, melanin‐derived radicals were formed. Stable and short‐lived radicals were observed at λ > 345 nm; only unstable radicals were formed at λ > 450 nm. At shorter wavelengths (λ > 280 nm), a new asymmetric signal (g= 2.0065H= 20 G) appeared on UV exposure of black, grey or white hair; this signal was attributed to radicals formed in the direct excitation of keratin amino acids. Le spectre RPE des cheveux
Bacteriological contamination of products used for skin care in babies
Authors: BAIRD ROSAMUND M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisTwo hundred and thirty‐two products used in the skin care of babies were examined for bacterial contamination. Contamination rates were compared between unused samples collected from homes, those used in the home, and those used in the maternity wards of a local hospital. Products used and unused, originating from the home had a low incidence of contamination and small bacterial populations. One product used in hospital was found to be susceptible to contamination; several samples were contaminated with Gram‐negative rods. The significance of these contaminants in products used on babies is discussed and proposals are put forward for avoiding in‐use contamination. Contamination bactérienne des produits utilisés pour les soin de la peau des bébés
Electrostatic emulsification of domestic and personal care products
Authors: HUGHES J.F. , ROBERTS J.M.C. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA technique is described for producing high quality emulsions in a controllable and reproducible way. The dispersed liquid phase is atomized electrostatically, thus enabling particle size to be well below 10μm for wax solutions while at the same time maintaining a very narrow particle size distribution. The energy saving over conventional emulsification methods is considerable, amounting to up to 85% for one typical domestic care product.Emulsification is achieved in a one‐step process in a machine which essentially has no moving parts and requires no auxiliary air supply. In addition to the ability to create high quality emulsions, electrostatic atomization of the dispersed phase itself introduces a new and useful parameter, electrical conductivity, enabling greater flexibility in terms of ensuring emulsion stability. Even in conventional emulsifier systems, electrically charging the dispersed phase may have important implications which have not to date been fully appreciated. Emulsification de produits de soins de la peau et de produits de ménage par une méthode électrostatique
Étude de la stabilité thermique du réseau collagène de la peau par calorimétrie différentielle. Influence d'un traitement cosmétique
Authors: FLANDIN F. , MASMEJEAN M. , Et C. BUFFEVANT , ROMEU M. 
Published: May 2007

RésuméAfin d'étudier l'influence d'un traitement cosmétique (crème au collagène) au niveau du derme de rats, nous avons utilisé une technique physico‐chimique: la calorimétrie différentielle programmée. Cette méthode renseigne sur la température et l'enthalpie de dénaturation des fibres collagènes du derme.Nous avons pu mettre en évidence par cette technique un abaissement de plus de 2°C de la température de fin de dénaturation du collagène chez des animaux âgés de 5 mois et ayant subi 4 mois de traitement (entre 1 et 5 mois). En revanche, aucune modification n'est apparue après ce même traitement chez des rats de 9 mois (traités entre 5 et 9 mois).Par ailleurs, l'étude de l'évolution de ces paramètres thermiques avec l'âge sur des animaux témoins montre que les animaux traités pendant 4 mois par une crème au collagène et âgés de 5 mois possèdent un réseau collagène dont la stabilité thermique étudiée par calorimétrie différentielle est voisine de celle obtenue pour des animaux témoins âgés de 3 mois.La différence observée pourrait correspondre à des modifications de la structure des fibres collagènes et/ou de la nature et du taux de leurs liaisons de réticulation. Study of the thermal stability of skin collagen by differential calorimetry. Influence of a cosmetic treatment
A fully automated system to study skin surface patterns
Authors: CORCUFF P. , CHATENAY F. , LEVEQUE J. L. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisAn image analysis method to measure the human skin microrelief has been previously proposed.This new method has been recently automated, using a ‘robot’electronically driven by a Quantimet 900. This ‘robot’consists of a change‐over specimen driven by four motors, and allows forty Silflo® replicas to be analysed in 6 hours, each analysis giving the main directions of the furrows, their density and their mean depth.For example, the volar forearm microrelief was studied from the detected shadows created by a 26° angle lighting, in the range of 5 to 100 μm deep furrows. A 38° angle lighting allows such measurements from 50 to 1000μm and is used for studying ‘crow's feet’wrinkles of the face.Results clearly show that deep wrinkles appear as early as 30 years old on the human face. The consequences of actinic and mechanical stresses over the life span are discussed. Un système automatique pour l'étude du relief cutané chez l'homme
Stabilisation des émulsions: influence des colloïdes hydrophiles
Authors: SAUNAL H. , ALVARADO D. , Et J. PASSET , DELONCA H. 
Published: May 2007

RésuméAfin d'améliorer la stabilité des émulsions à base d'huile de paraffine, d'huile d'olive, de Myglyol 812 et de plusieurs couples émulsifiants constitués de tensio‐actifs non‐ioniques, cinq polymères hydrophiles ont été utilisés: la carboxyméthyl cellulose sodique, l'hydroxyéthyl cellulose, l'agar‐agar, une argile hydrophile synthétique et un polymère carboxyvinylique.Après douze mois de conservation, il ressort un certain nombre de points: parmi les trois huiles utilisées l'émulsion à base d'huile d'olive se révèle être la plus difficile à stabiliser. L'addition d'un hydrocolloïde n'entraîne pas forcément la stabilisation d'une émulsion et parmi les additifs testés c'est le polymère acrylique qui se révèle être le plus efficace. Stabilisation of emulsions: influence of hydrophilic colloids
Major isomers of the active ingredient of the sunscreen 5(3,3‐dimethyl‐2‐norbornylidene)‐3 pentene‐2‐one
Authors: SAUNAL H. , BEIJERSBERGEN G. M. J. , HENEGOUWEN VAN , DELONCA H. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisWith high‐performance liquid chromatography the three major isomers present in the sunscreen agent, 5(3, 3‐dimethyl‐2‐norbornylidene)‐3 pentene‐2‐one, have been isolated and quantified. Their structures have been determined using mass, infra‐red, and NMR spectrometry. Isomères dans le filtre solaire 5(3, 3‐dimethyl‐2‐norbornylidene)‐3 pentene‐2‐one
Influence des variations thermiques sur la structure du cheveu
Authors: BORIES M. F. , MARTINI M. C. , Et M. F. BOBIN , COTTE J. 
Published: May 2007

RésuméLes auteurs ont étudié l'incidence de températures croissantes de 20 à 200°C sur la structure superficielle et profonde du cheveu dans le but de définir une température optimale de séchage permettant de respecter l'intégrité de la fibre de kératine tout en favorisant la permanence de sa déformation.Pour ce faire, diverses techniques ont été mises en oeuvre: microscopie à balayage, dosage de l'eau par la méthode de Karl Fischer, calorimétrie différentielle et diffraction des rayons X.Il apparait une température critique de 140°C en deçà de laquelle les modifications observées sont faibles, réversibles et liées à la perte progressive de l'eau libre. Au delà de 140°C, les modifications structurales sont profondes et irréversibles. Elles se traduisent par un changement d'aspect dû au plissement de la cuticule, les écailles de la cuticule disparaissant peu à peu.Après élimination de l'eau liée, la dégradation totale de la structure interne est obtenue aux environ de 200°C.On peut toutefois sélectionner une température optimale de séchage de 60°C pour laquelle la fixation ultérieure de l'eau par le cheveu sec sera plus lente le rendant moins sensible aux variations hygrométriques. Effects of heat treatment on hair structure
Study of the fate of Bronopol and the effects of antioxidants on N‐nitrosamine formation in shampoos and skin creams
Authors: DUNNETT P. C. , TELLING G. M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe role of antioxidants in preventing nitrosamine (N‐nitroso diethanolamine) formation in shampoos and skin creams and the levels of Bronopol (2‐bromo, 2‐nitropropane‐1, 3‐diol) addition in relation to the resultant levels of N‐nitroso compounds have been studied.The addition of 0.05% BHT, α‐tocopherol or ascorbate was effective in preventing nitrosamine formation (limit of determination: 2.5 μg kg‐1) in products preserved with 0.01% Bronopol. At 0.05% Bronopol, 0.2% of all three antioxidants was effective in preventing nitrosamine formation but at 0.1% Bronopol only α‐tocopherol was effective.Levels of Bronopol found in shampoo formulations stored for 2 weeks at 37°C with initial concentrations of 0.005‐0.1% were reduced by 64‐86%, independent of the initial concentration. The levels in skin creams stored for extended periods at ambient temperature with 0.01% Bronopol initially were reduced by, on average, 60%.High nitrite levels (NO2‐) were found in formulations containing 0.01% Bronopol but no antioxidants (200‐250 mg kg‐1). Detected levels of nitrite in skin cream formulations were greater than could be formed by stoichiometric decomposition of Bronopol. In formulations with both Bronopol and antioxidants the levels of nitrite were considerably reduced. When α‐tocopherol rather than BHT or ascorbate was the antioxidant then the nitrite levels were appreciably higher but formation of N‐nitroso diethanolamine was no greater.High nitrite levels correlated with the formation of detectable levels of N‐nitroso compounds in the absence of antioxidants. Le rôle préventif du Bronopol et des antioxygènes dans la formation de la nitrosamine
Fatty acid sulphoalkyl amides and esters as cosmetic surfactants
Authors: PETTER P. J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA review is given of the manufacture, properties and applications of the anionic surfactants commonly known as taurates and isethionates (fatty acid sulphoalkyl amides and esters, respectively). Originally developed in the 1930s for textile processing, these surfactants are used increasingly in the cosmetic field, particularly those derived from coconut fatty acid.Both types are produced from sodium isethionate, HO°C2H4SO3Na. The acyl isethionate, R°COO°C2H4SO3Na, is obtained by reaction with a fatty acid (‘direct process’). or fatty acid chloride (‘indirect process’). The direct process is cheaper but requires extreme conditions which can lead to discoloration of the product and a loss of shorter chain fatty acid components.The N‐methyl‐N‐acyltaurate, R°CON(R1)C2H4SO3Na, is obtained by Schotten‐Baumann reaction of a fatty acid chloride with N‐methyltaurine, which is derived from sodium isethionate via methylamine.Taurates and isethionates retain the benefits of the soaps to which they are structurally similar, but chemical modifications have eliminated many undesirable features. Thus they combine good detergency and wetting with high foaming, and maintain their performance in hard or salt water. Taurates are stable to hydrolysis over the whole pH range. Isethionates are prone to hydrolysis at high (>8) or low (<5) pH, but this does not normally present a problem in cosmetic formulations.Above all, these surfactants are characterized by their extreme mildness to skin. Syndet and syndet/soap bars based on isethionate can be formulated at neutral pH (‘Dove type’bars) instead of the alkaline pH of soap, and have been shown in various studies to be milder than soap and better tolerated by the young, the old and those with sensitive skins. Similarly, isethionates have been shown to be less irritating than other anionic or amphoteric surfactants used in cosmetics. The difference has been related to the negligible effect of isethionate on the water‐binding capacity of stratum corneum.Other cosmetic applications besides toilet bars include shampoos (excellent cleaning, mild to scalp, some hair conditioning effects), liquid soaps (mild for all‐over body use), bubble baths (copious stable foam, efficient lime soap dispersal, low irritancy), skin creams and lotions (emulsification, alleviation of ‘dry skin’), baby care products (ultra‐mild cleansing bars and milks, impregnated baby wipes) and oral products (foaming agents with low toxicity for toothpastes and mouthwashes).
Prediction and measurement of surfactant action upon human skin under realistic conditions
Authors: PROTTEY C. , OLIVER D. , COXON A. C. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe lysosomal enzyme acid phosphatase has been characterized and quantified in tapestrip biopsies of human stratum corneum by means of a sensitive spectrofluorometric procedure. When the stratum corneum of panellists was exposed to dilute solutions of various surfactants under realistic exposure conditions, the changes observed in stratum corneum acid phosphatase specific activity have been found to correlate very closely with the visual, macroscopic changes such as dryness and flakiness, that are elicited in skin as a result of surfactants. This method monitors denaturation of stratum corneum proteins, which is an important feature of skin surfactant interactions, and serves as an effective, non‐invasive predictive tool for skin irritancy and mildness of surfactants. Prevention et mesure de l'action des tensio‐actifs sur la peau humaine dans des conditions conformes a la réalité
Analysis of hexamidine, dibromohexamidine, dibromopropamidine and chlorhexidine in cosmetic products by high‐performance liquid chromatography
Authors: BUKANSKI B. WYHOWSKI DE , MASSE M.O. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA method of determining qualitatively and quantitatively hexamidine, dibromohexamidine, dibromopropamidine and chlorhexidine in cosmetic products by means of paired ion, reverse‐phase high‐performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and ultraviolet detection (UV) at 264 nm. Détermination de l'hexamidine, du dibromohexamidine, du dibromopropamidine et de la chlorhexidine dans les produits cosmétiques
Interpretation of predictive data on safety‐in‐use of toiletry products
Authors: EBBÉ N. J. VAN 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisToiletries are the subgroup of cosmetics mainly used for cleansing and personal hygiene of the skin, the hair or the dentition. Some of these preparations may be considered also to have medicinal characteristics and are liable to be placed in a ‘borderline’category which may have regulatory implications.Predictive safety testing is designed to ensure as far as possible that new toiletries may be used without harm to health. Attention to the severity of adverse effects rather than their numerical incidence is necessary when assessing risks associated with toiletry use. Benefits derived from using toiletries are primarily concerned with personal hygiene and grooming, to give increased self‐assurance and social acceptance. The relationship between benefit and risk is not easily described in mathematical terms, mainly because benefits from using toiletries are hard to quantify. However, other ways of studying risk in relation to benefit may be considered. Évaluation des risques du produits d'hygiène corporelle