bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Pectic Substance in Cotton and Its Relation to the Properties of the Fibre
Authors: Whistler Roy L. , Martin A.R. , Harris Milton 
Published: March 2008

Pectic substance has long been known to be present in naturally-occurring cotton fibres. There exist, how ever, at least two divergent viewpoints regarding the lo cation of this substance in the fibre. The difference in these viewpoints has led to very different conclusions re garding the influence of pectic substance on such important properties of cotton as tensile strength, moisture and dye absorption, and viscosity in cuprammonium hydroxide solu tions. The chief difficulty, heretofore encountered in attempts to evaluate more precisely the role of the pectic substance, has been the lack of a reliable method for its quantitative estimation in the presence of other carbohydrate material. Recently, however, a new method, which permits the accu rate determination of small amounts of uronic acids in the presence of large proportions of cellulose, was developed in this laboratory. This development has made possible the present investigation, which concerns itself with the state of the pectic szcbstance in native cotton fibres, its ease of removal by various reagents, its behavior in cuprammonium hydroxide solutions and its influence on the tensile strength and on the viscosity of cuprammonium dispersions of the cotton. The results indicate that a pectin-cellulose complex does not exist in cotton fibres and that the pectic sub stance is present as an insoluble salt. The replacement of these ions, under non-hydrolytic conditions, by the mono valent cations, sodium or ammonium, renders the pectic substance soluble. Cotton freed of pectic substance with alkali showed no change in tensile strength or in viscosity, whereas treatment of the fibre with acids, which removed only a small proportion of the pectic substance, produced an appreciable lowering of these two properties. When dewaxed fibres were dispersed in cuprammonium solutions, it was found that a small portion remained in soluble and was readily removed in a centrifuge. Analysis of the material showed it to consist practically entirely of pectic substance. Similar results were obtained on fibres which had been pretreated with concentrated hydro chloric acid. Consideration of these results led to the con clusion that the pectic substance does not contribute to the viscosity of cuprammonium dispersions of cotton. Deter minations of the viscosities of cuprammonium solutions to which had been added several samples of pectic material from different sources substantiate this conclusion.
Equipment for Conditioning Materials at Constant Humidities and Elevated Temperatures
Authors: Wiegerink James G. 
Published: March 2008

Equipment is described for the study of the mois ture relations of materials in air of controlled relative humidities at elevated temperatures. The air is brought to the desired relative humidity and temperature by an arrangement including a saturator and automatically controlled heaters and then passed through a working chamber in which the materials to be studied can be weighed rapidly and accurately. Provision is made for measuring the rate of flow of air and for accurately de termining the relative humidity in the working chamber. The equipment has been used at temperatures from 96° F. to 300° F., relative humidities from 10% to 90% for temperatures up to 212° F. and to the maximum rela tive humidities obtainable at atmospheric pressure for temperatures between 212° F. and 300° F. The tem perature in the working chamber can be maintained con stant within ± 0.4° F. and the relative humidity within ± 1% relative humidity for experimental runs of several days' duration. Data are given illustrating the performance of the equipment.
Moisture Control: Practical Applica tion in Rayon Slashing
Authors: Yelland William E. 
Published: March 2008

Results obtained during a study of the sizing of continuous filament bright viscose rayon warps indicated that: (1) Greater uniformity in the regain of sized warps was made possible by means of automatic control of the steam pressure in the dry cans in place of the usual manual control. (2) A pressure of 7 lbs, to 9 lbs. on six dry cans was szuffi cient to dry a warp of the type used in these experiments to a regain of 10% at a speed of 40 yards per minute. (3) The pressure required was determined partly by the amount of moisture left in the warp by the squeeze roll. The type and condition of the blanket on the roll was an important factor. (4) At pressures below 7 lbs. in the dry cans good control was not obtained due to the clogging of the condensate traps in the steam line. (5) Automatic control was most effective when there were fewest stops during slashing. Warps must be made curefully in order to prevent stops due to crossed ends, cylinder laps, etc., on the slasher.
The Rôle of Cystine in the Structure of the Fibrous Protein, Wool
Authors: Patterson W.I. , Geiger W.B. , Mizell L.R. , Harris M. 
Published: March 2008

Wool is remarkable among textile materials in that it possesses high extensibility and the ability to return to its original length or shape after being stretched or distorted. These properties are of advantage in such products as clothing, blankets, and carpets. It is shown that a number of the important physical properties as well as some of the chemical properties of wool are dependent upon a unique molecular structure, provided by the presence of disulfide or cystine cross-linkages between the main molecular chains of the fiber. As a result, wool fibers possess a three-dimensional molecular net-work while most other textile fibers are composed of bundles of chain-like molecules, arranged more or less parallel to the axes of the fibers. The rôle of these disulfide cross-linkages is made clear by a study of the behavior of wool before and after alteration of the mode of linkage of the sulfur. For example, the disulfide cross- linkages are readily broken to form sulfhydryl groups by the re ducing agent, thioglycolic acid. The sulfhydryl groups of the reduced fibers readily react with alkyl halides to form thioether groups with two possible results. Thus, the reaction of reduced wool with alkyl monohalides results in permanent rupture of di sulfide linkages and greatly increases the extensibility and decreases the strength of the fibers. The reaction with aliphatic dihalides introduces hydrocarbon chains between pairs of sulfur atoms of cystine molecules in the fibers. Such fibers are very similar to untreated fibers in physical properties. Wools in which the disulfide linkages have been broken by reduction, or by reduction followed by treatment with alkyl mono halides possesses much higher alkali-solubilities than untreated wool, while wools in which the disulfide cross-linkages have been replaced by new cross-linkages through reduction followed by re action with dihalides possess much lower alkali-solubilities. Since the susceptibility of wool to degradation by alkalies is one of its greatest disadvantages, practical processes that would make it stable at its cross-linkages should also enhance its durability.
Photochemical Reactions in Silk
Authors: Rutherford Henry A. , Harris Milton 
Published: March 2008

Silk is more readily deteriorated by the action of light than any other natural textile fiber. While the nature of the deteriora tion has not been clear, it has been known that the rate of decompo sition may be considerably altered by pretreatment of the fiber with solutions of various chemical compounds. For example, silk treated with dilute solutions of basic compounds is more stable toward the action of light than untreated silk, whereas silk treated with dilute solutions of mineral acid exhibits greatly decreased stability under the same conditions. An investigation by Research Associates of the Textile Foun dation at the National Bureau of Standards of the influence of a number of reagents on the photochemical deterioration of silk now reveals that the rate of deterioration is in part influenced by the cationic content of the silk. The removal of cationic substances, . by two independent methods results in practically identical de creases in the stability of the fibers to light. On the other hand, the stability is readily restored by treatment with basic compounds. Inorganic bases produce a number of undesirable effects, such as a harsh "feel" and a tendency for the cloth to yellow. These effects can be eliminated by the use of any one of a number of different organic basic compounds. It was further shown that the inaetivation of the carboxylic acid groups of silk by methylation with diazomethane does not ap preciably change the photochemical behavior of the fiber but that the methylation of only a small percentage of the hydroxyl groups of tyrosine results in a marked increase in photochemical stability. The results suggest that alteration of the tyrosine hydroxyl groups by reaction with various reagents is responsible for at least part of these stabilizing effects.
Research and the Patent System
Authors: Wickliffe Rose H. 
Published: March 2008

Attacks on the patent laws and proposals for revi sion of the patent system appear again to have become popular. However, the importance of adequately assur ing the element of time required for the development of a new process or a new machine can hardly be overesti mated. For this affects noy only the individual research worker and inventor but also the continuity of life for the corporate structure. In "Research and the Patent System," Mr. Rose dis cusses the workings of the patent system. Part I., which follows, deals mainly with its relationship to the indi vidual inventor, and the question of right of access by the newcomer to the technology in a field fenced off by patent claims. Part II., which will appear in the August issue of TEXTILE RESEARCH, will discuss "Patents and the Corporation."
Wear-Resistance of Apparel Textiles, II
Authors: Kaswell Ernest R. 
Published: March 2008

Portion of a research program on the Wear-Resistance of Apparel Textiles sponsored by the Office of The Quartermaster General and the National Research Council, and conducted by the Textile Division of the Massachusetts Institute of Tech nology, Cambridge, and the Fabric Research Laboratories, Inc., Boston, Massachusetts. Part I, "Tests of Military Fabrics on Quartermaster Combat Course," appeared in the September, 1946, issue.
Cotton—A Versatile Textile Fiber
Authors: Berkley Earl E. 
Published: March 2008

Certain recent researches on cotton are reviewed, together with further data on natural variations of it as found on the cottonseed and modifications of the fiber by chemical and physical treatments. No attempt has been made to present a general review. A more extensive over-all treatment of cotton quality may be found in a report by the Bureau of Plant Industry [11]. Cotton fibers grow first in length, then in thickness. The physical properties of the fiber and, therefore, its use value are determined by its length, fineness, and cell-wall construc tion, all of which are genetically controlled but are also sub ject to modifications by weather conditions during growth. Since fiber length is established before the cell walls thicken, length and cell-wall structure may be influenced independ ently. As growth proceeds there is a general trend toward compensation of loss of fiber length by added strength and vice versa; however, the failure of weather conditions to remain the same throughout the growing period of the fiber may result, for example, in short, weak fiber or long, strong fiber. Cotton fibers may be modified by swelling treatments while tension is applied. Such treatments may increase the fiber strength at the expense of other properties. The spinning quality of cotton is dependent upon a com bination of fiber properties and upon the spinning technique used. In general, however, the size of yarn or thread made from cotton is dependent upon its fiber length. For a given length, fiber fineness, and even strength, may influence the maximum count to be expected. Strong yarns require relatively strong fiber for any given fiber length and fineness. Uniformity of fiber length undoubtedly influences the ease of manufacture and the percentage of waste to be expected from a given cotton, but it is indicated that well-bred mod ern varieties have sufficient length uniformity to give good results. Within a variety, however, growth conditions, gin ning, and baling may affect the fiber-length uniformity enough to influence fiber property-yarn strength relationships. Since variety characteristics may be influenced by growth conditions, causing positive varietal relationships to reverse and become negative for environment, the analyses of data consisting of fiber properties and yarn strengths, except for very general treatments, will give more information if variety and environmental effects can be segregated. It is indicated that if good certified seed of suitable varie ties for each type of environment are planted, cotton of ac ceptable quality can be produced throughout the Cotton Belt. In selecting a cotton for specialized uses, variety and growth conditions as well as grade and staple should be considered for best results.
Effect of Grinding on the Crystallinity of Cellulose Fibers, as Indicated by the Acid-Hydrolysis and Other Techniques
Authors: Nelson Mary L. , Conrad Carl M. 
Published: March 2008

A study was made of an effect previously noted, that grinding cotton fibers in a Wiley mill causes a reduction in degree of crystallinity as determined by the acid-hydrolysis method. It is shown on samples of purified linters and cut cotton, ground under conditions of increasing severity, that even mild grinding—for example, through a 2-mm. sieve—causes a detectable reduction in indicated degree of crystallinity, and that as the severity of grinding increases the degree of crystallinity drops correspondingly. This drop is not caused by passage of more of the finely ground particles from the more severely ground samples through the filters. When the ground samples were moistened with water and allowed to dry, a portion of the lost crystal linity was regained. The acid-hydrolysis results are supported by accessibility, heat of wetting, and moisture adsorption measurements, which, with few exceptions, indicate increasingly larger amounts of amorphous material in the samples receiving the more severe grinding. While the x-ray diffraction patterns did not reveal any effect of the most severe grinding, it is assumed that the changes were not sufficient to permit their detection by this means. Some implications of the results on the interpretation of cellulose structure are discussed.
An Electron-Microscopical Examination of Rayon
Authors: Hock Charles W. 
Published: March 2008

By metallic shadow-casting of specimens for electron-microscopical examination, fibrils a few hundred Angstroms in diameter were demonstrated in cuprammonium and in viscose rayons. Fibrillation was more distinct in the rayons having a high degree of orientation. The fine fibrils in the fibers of both these regenerated celluloses were similar to those previously observed in native cellulose fibers. A comparison of surface replicas of the fibers revealed distinct differences. Whereas the cuprammonium rayon fibers were relatively smooth except for occasional markings which gave them a scaly appearance, the viscose rayon fibers were rougher, and showed an irregular netlike pattern.
Some Aspects of the Photochemical Degradation of Nylon, Silk, and Viscose Rayon
Authors: Egerton G.S. 
Published: March 2008

The vat dyes that are particularly effective in increasing the photochemical degradation of nylon, silk, and viscose rayon are capable of increasing the degradation of undyed cotton that is simultaneously irradiated in their vicinity. The experiments took the form of irradiating a sheet of yarn composed of alternate dyed and undyed threads not in contact with one another. The dyed threads used included nylon, silk, and viscose rayon yarns dyed with various vat dyes. Many of the dyed yarns have a considerable effect upon the degradation of adjacent undyed yarns of cotton or silk, but the same dyed yarns generally have only a small or negligible effect upon the degradation of undyed yarns of nylon or viscose rayon. These results are ap parently due to the greater resistance of the latter textile materials to oxidation by the volatile agent (hydrogen peroxide), which is responsible for the "action at a distance." In some cases- for example, dyed nylon-there is evidence that although the volatile agent is produced by the dye in a relatively large amount it is not responsible for the major proportion of the degradation of the dyed yarn. The effect of humidity on the rate of photochemical degradation of textile materials dyed with active vat dyes appears to be closely related to the ease with which the textile fiber is oxidized by the volatile agent. These results are interpreted in terms of a theory in which the photochemical degradation of the textile material is represented as the result of oxidation by activated oxygen and/or hydrogen peroxide. The relative effectiveness of these two oxidation processes depends upon the particular experimental conditions and the nature of the textile fiber.
Small-Angle X-Ray Scattering in Various Cellulose Fibers and Its Relation to the Micellar structure
Authors: Heyn A.N.J. 
Published: March 2008

The study of the molecular structure of cellulose fibers by x-rays has been concerned until very recently with diffraction of only relatively wide angles. Almost no work has been done on the diffraction and scattering of x-rays within very small angles adjacent to the primary beam. The only fact known was that such "small-angle scattering" is produced by ramie and viscose rayon. In the present study, the small-angle scattering by various cellulose fibers has been investi gated and it has been found that the scattering by different fibers is completely different. The hypothesis that the small-angle scattering in cellulose fibers would be related to the micellar size and distance is substantiated by the fact that an experimental change of those distances results in a corresponding (inverse) change in the extent of the scattering. On this basis the difference in the scattering patterns of different fibers is explained as a difference in the size and distance of the cellulose micelles or crystallites. An orientation of crystallites is also expressed in the small-angle diffraction pattern giving rise to the interesting phenomenon of "cross" formation when the crystallites form an angle with the long axis of the fiber. The angle between the intersecting lines of the cross proved to be related to the pitch of the spiral of the crystallites in the fiber.
The Viscosity of Newtonian, Pseudoplastic, and Dilatant Liquids
Authors: Krieble James G. , Whitwell John C. 
Published: March 2008

An equation, for the calculation of the counterpart of viscosity for a pseudoplastic (or dilatant) liquid exists from the relationship existing between 1/ t and ΔP. Evaluation of ζ and Z defines the liquid property as completely as does η alone for a Newtonian liquid. The counterpart of viscosity-ratio, which is independent of the rate of shear and viscometer dimensions, can be used to determine the intrinsic viscosity, [η]. The general character of the change in Z with the concentration is indicated.
A system for the Sizing of Women's Garments
Authors: Staples M.L. , DeLury D.B. 
Published: March 2008

Body measurements for a representative number of American women (over 10,000) have been analyzed and a system is proposed for the sizing of women's garments based on this analysis. Size classes for the entire population of women 18 years of age and over have been developed in terms of independent control dimensions which are essential for the proper fit of the particular type of garment considered. Dimensions have been computed for standard forms set up to represent each size class of the population. The calculations involve the use of the control variables and certain dependent variables required to define the size and shape of each mannequin. A scheme for identifying the different size classes is also proposed. This scheme takes advantage of the fact that body measurements may be divided into three categories which are virtually independent of one another.
Detergency Studies
Authors: Utermohlen William P. , Fischer Earl K. , Ryan Mary E. , Campbell Gordon H. 
Published: March 2008

Natural soils on textiles usually contain both oily and solid components, and the generally accepted mechanism of soil removal postulates the emulsification and suspension of oil droplets or of solid particles covered with an intact oil film. Thus the ready removal of solid soil has been considered as dependent upon the presence of an emulsifiable oily soil, which had also served, prior to washing, to bind the solid soil more tightly to the fabric. Washing tests have been made on samples of cotton cloth soiled to the same extent with lampblack or iron oxide in the presence of an oily liquid binder, of non-oily, water-soluble liquid binders, and of no binder at all. The ease of removal of the pigments was equal or only slightly different in all of these cases, indicating that the removal of solid soil and of oily soil . are separate phenomena and not interrelated to any great extent. This result indicates the desirability of reconsidering the theory of soil removal, and a possible improvement and simplification of laboratory test methods for detergent action.
A Study of Roving Coil Spacing on Bobbins
Authors: Bogdan J.F. 
Published: March 2008

An equation, Cc = 8.365 H0.6617, makes possible the calculation of roving coils per inch for American carded cottons from a given roving number. Relative roving density, width of coils, and rates of change are discussed. An application to a manufacturing problem is illustrated.
The Relaxation of Stress in Wool Fibers
Authors: Katz Sidney M. , Tobolsky Arthur V. 
Published: March 2008

A study of the decay of tension of Columbia 56's wool fibers maintained at constant tem perature and extension has been carried out in water, in solutions of sodium bisulfite of various concentrations, and in neutral salt solutions. The experimental results obtained in water are similar although not identical to the results previously found by Speakman and Shah for human hair. The rapid stress decay of stretched wool which occurs when sodium bisulfite is added appears to be due to a chemical reaction involving the cystine linkages. The rate becomes independent of bisulfite concentration at sufficiently high concentrations. A much slower but unexpectedly large stress decay occurs in the presence of neutral salts such as sodium chloride.
Law of Critical Yarn Diameter and Twist Influence on Yarn Characteristics
Authors: Barella Alberto 
Published: March 2008

The effect of increased twist upon yarn density is explored and a law of critical diameter is postulated. It is suggested that at the time at which a yarn breaks under tensile load the density of the yarn is equal to the fiber density. The influence of twist on contraction is examined and prediction formulas are given for cotton, woolen, worsted, and rayon yarns.