bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Studies on High Fastness to Light in Coloring Matters in Hydrophobic Substrates
Authors: Giles Charles H. , Rahman Syed M. K. 
Published: March 2008

Disperse dyes C. I. 12770, 61100, and 61105, have been applied to disoriented polyester film, oriented polyester film and fiber (Terylene), and to cellulose secondary acetate and triacetate ( films and fibers). Some control tests with a direct cotton dye (C. I. 24410) on regenerated cellulose films (normal and gel state ) have been included. Spectral absorption (x- and y-baud) and lightfastness (fading rate and CF curve) measurements have been made in dry and damp atmospheres. The dyes become increasingly aggregated with rise in concentration, in each substrate, and also with rise in porosity (i.e., moisture regain) of all the substrates. The results show that if the adsorbed dye were freely accessible to water vapor and air, lightfastness would in all cases follow the normal rule and increase with the degree of aggregation of the dye, and thus with the moisture regain of the substrate. In substrates of very low regain, however, i.e., polyesters, fading is retarded by the "diffusion-restriction effect," i.e., the restricted access of, probably, water vapor and air to the dye particles. Lightfastness of disperse dyes on polyesters is thus higher than would be expected, and in one case (C. 1. 61100) it is better on Terylene fiber than on cellulose acetates. In films lightfastness rises in the order: disoriented polyester < oriented polyester < cellu lose triacetate < cellulose secondary acetate. A hydrogen-bonding carrier (4-hydroxydiphenyl) reduces the degree of aggregation of a disperse dye in polyester film. This effect probably accounts for its deleterious effect on the lightfastness of disperse dyes on Terylene fiber. The results agree with published data on lightfastness of disperse dye on cellulose acetate and polyester fibers. In agreement with Color Index data, the present results appear to show that sym metry of substitution in anthraquinone disperse dyes favors the diffusion-restriction effect in polyester fibers and thus tends to raise lightfastness.
Increasing the Felting Rate of Wool
Authors: McPhee J.R. 
Published: March 2008

Treatment with acid solutions of iodate or chlorate increases the rate of felting of wool in soap solution by about 30%. Reagents used for carroting rabbit fur, such as mercuric nitrate in nitric acid, peracetic acid, or alkaline thioglycolate, increase felting rate but cause severe damage. Acid and alkaline peroxide, acid chlorine, hypochlorite at pH 8, ethanolic sodium hydroxide, persulfate, and acid bromate can all produce a small increase in felting rate under mild conditions of treatment, but more severe treat ment decreases the felting rate. Permanganate/saturated salt, permanganate/water, permanganate/hypochlorite, and permonosulfuric acid treatments do not give increased felting rate under any conditions. , The best treatments found for increasing felting are those with acid iodate or chlorate, but these would be too expensive, for the limited increase in felting rate , obtained, to be useful industrially. Increased felting appears to be due to weakening of fibers by extensive reaction of the reagent with cortex rather than to changes in frictional properties. Decreased felting seems logicall to be due to reaction with cuticle, but a large decrease in felting rate can be obtained with a relatively small change in the difference between anti- and with-scale frictional coefficients (0.29 to 0.22), as measured by the capstan method. Reaction does not have to be confined to, or concentrated at, the surface of fibers to decrease felting rate. All that is necessary is that a sufficient degree of modification of cuticle be obtained, with or without extensive modification of cortex. Industrially useful shrinkproofing reagents are those which are sufficiently reactive to give cuticle modification when low concentrations are used and thus when over-all reaction and damage are correspondingly low.
Mechanical Principles of Natural Crimp of Fiber
Authors: Brand R.H. , Backer Stanley 
Published: March 2008

A mathematical model for natural fiber crimp is proposed which assumes that the analogy with Timoshenko's theory of bimetal thermostats is valid. Formulas for crimp parameters are derived accordingly. They correctly account for the inverse relation ship between crimp and denier which has been shown to exist for wool fibers. Experi mental data obtained with fibers related to "Orlon Sayelle" 2 Type 21 fibers support the validity of the assumed model. The crimp model hypothesis leads logically to a helical coil spring model for the spatial configuration of natural crimp of fibers. The actual spatial path of crimp is shown to depend in part on fiber bending and torsion rigidities and environmental constraints. The equations derived by Holdaway, based on the helical coil model, for the force-extension characteristic of natural crimp are shown to be valid for the elastic behavior of crimped fibers in the unerimping regions of the load-elongation curve. A technique is described for direct measurement of the ratio of bending to torsion rigidity of naturally crimped fibers. For a number of fibers, of the type that includes Orlon Sayelle Type 21, the ratio has been measured and found to vary between about 1.0 and 3.5.
Studies in Adsorption
Authors: Giles Charles H. , Montgomery Alan P. , Tolia Arun H. 
Published: March 2008

Relative rates of adsorption by gelatin and by wool have been determined for a number of series of sulfonated azo acid dyes and 2: 1 dye-metal complexes. It is shown that: (i) The rate of adsorption of each dye by a given area of the external surface of gelatin is about four times that by the same area of the external surface of wool; (ii) the logarithm of the rates falls linearly with both the number of substituent groups in the dye molecule and with its molecular volume; each series of dyes gives points lying on a different line. A few experiments, including measurements of absorption spectra, are described in which benzyl alcuhol and other organic solutes have been added to the dyebath. Benzyl alcohol, and to a less extent dioxan, tends to disaggregate dyes of low basicity when added to their aqueous solutions, but D-glucose and inositol do not do so. Of these solutes, only benzyl alcohol is effective in accelerating dyeing. It is considered that the mecha nisms already proposed to account for the acceleration of dyeing by addition of solvents probably all operate, but the most important may be the effect of adsorption of the solvent by the fiber. On the basis of the present results, the very rapid adsorption of benzyl alcohol by wool is attrihutahle to its low molecular volume and nonionic nature.
A Critical Comparison of Available Methods for the Spectrophotometric Determination of Micro- Amounts of Copper in Textiles
Authors: Kempton A.G. , Greenberger M. , Kaplan A.M. 
Published: March 2008

A survey has been made of methods available for the spectrophotometric determina tion of copper in fabrics treated with copper-containing fungicides. Seven of the most promising copper reagents were compared on the basis of sensitivity, simplicity of pro cedure, and specificity for copper in the presence of the metallic oxides used to render fabrics resistant to fire, ultraviolet light, and water. Methods employing rubeanic acid and zinc dibenzyldithiocarbamate offered the best combination of desirable character istics. These methods proved to be as precise as the electrolytic method described in current federal specifications. These methods were also successfully tested against commercially treated fabrics obtained through actual Army procurements. Since only 3-5 mg of fabric are required for each determination, these spectrophoto metric methods offer a means of determining the evenness of application of the fungicide on the fabric. The analysis of commercial fabrics treated with copper 8-quinolinolate and copper naphthenate indicated that the textile manufacturing industry is capable of obtaining a very even distribution of this mixture of fungicides throughout the material. Details of the rubeanic acid and zinc dibenzyldithiocarbamate methods are presented.
Hydrolysis Resistance of Cross-Linking Finishes for Cotton
Authors: Andrews B. A. Kottes , Arceneaux Richard L. , Frick J.G. , Reid J. David 
Published: March 2008

The relative acid and alkali stabilities of various nitrogenous finishes for cotton have been compared. The effect the groups attached to the carbonyl and the substituents on the amido nitrogen exert on the electron density of the amido group has been related to acid and alkali resistance. The finishes studied included those derived from urea. cyclic ureas, carbamates, and carhoxylic amides. In general, the groups exerting strong electron-attracting force on the amido group will increase the acid stability of the resulting finish and decrease the alkali resistance, and the groups which are strong electron donors increase the alkali stability and decrease the acid resistance.
Yarn and Fabric Properties and Processing Performance of Cotton Treated with a Cross-Linking Resin
Authors: Ruppenicker George F. , Brown John J. , Hoffman Milton J. 
Published: March 2008

Results are reported of an investigation to determine the general processing per formance, in the cotton processing system, of cotton containing various percentages of fibers treated with dimethylol ethyleneurea, and the properties of the resultant yarns and fabrics. The resin-treated cotton was evaluated in 100% form and in blends with scoured cotton. Fabrics woven with filling yarns spun from the 100% treated cotton and the blends, using a common untreated warp, were evaluated for warmth properties in terms of thickness, bulk density, and air permeability. Difficulties were experienced in processing cotton with large percentages of resin- treated fibers due mainly to uneven drafting and the formation of static charges during the carding and drawing operations. Yarns spun from cotton containing resin-treated fibers were progressively weaker. less uniform, and more degraded in appearance as the percentage of resin-treated fibers was increased. Yarn elongation-at-break decreased with the addition of resin-treated fibers, but elongation at loads below the breaking point increased, indicating a relationship between yarn elongation at low loads and yarn bulk. Although experimental fabrics having improved warmth properties were made from yarns composed of 50% or more resin-treated fibers, it was concluded that, with present knowledge, the lower yarn quality and the poor processing performance would make production difficult on a commercial scale.
The Recovery of Crimp of Wool Fibers
Authors: Banbaji Joseph , Alexander Ernst , Shiloh Miriam , Lewin Menachem 
Published: March 2008

In this work the uncrimping force and energy are used to characterize the crimp of wool fibers. These parameters are measured through the load-extension curves of single wool fibers. It seemed necessary to investigate the stability of the uncrimping energy and force. This stability is referred to as crimp recovery. The dependence of crimp recovery on recovery times as well as on the amount of extension was studied. It was found that for immediate recovery the crimp decreases, and that this decrease varies with the percent of final extension of the fibers. When the fibers are kept in a relaxed state after the final extension for various times, it is found that the crimp recovery is almost complete after 24 hr of relaxation; with smaller times of relaxation the crimp recovery increases with time, while the extent of the recovery depends on the amount of final percent of extension—the higher the extension the lower the recovery. 1 Instron Engineering Corporation, Canton, Mass. 2 American Society for Testing and Materials.
The Operating Principles of a Jute Sliver Thickness Detector
Authors: Mather J.N. 
Published: March 2008

The mass profile of textile slivers is required for process control and routine testing. It can be derived from the thickness profile got by passing the material between loaded cylindrical rollers, provided the effects of different test conditions and the relation between thickness and mass are known. These have been examined for jute finisher card slivers. The effects of roller diameter, compressive force, and throughput speed have been included in a single relation. Diameter affected the area compressed only, and through put speed was unimportant for compression times longer than 0.1 sec. Thickness was proportional to mass for the short lengths of sliver under instantaneous compression. Fiber moisture content and denier had negligible effect on the thickness over the ranges of practical interest, fiber alignment being more important. The compression characteristics of slivers loaded statically under a plane shoe are discussed, also.
Diffusion Kinetics of Orange-II in Nylon 661
Authors: Davis G. Thomas , Taylor Hugh S. 
Published: March 2008

The effect of draw ratio on the diffusion kinetics of Orange-II in nylon 66 has been investigated in an infinite dyebath buffered at pH 5.8 at temperatures between 40° and 102° C. Diffusion coefficients were ohtained by applying Hill's equation to the total amount of dye adsorbed as a function of time. As the fiber is drawn, there is very little reduction in the equilibrium adsorption of dye, but the diffusion coefficient is reduced to about one-half its previous value for each integral unit of draw ratio. Activation energy for diffusion increases from about 22 to about 28 kcal/mole as the draw ratio increases from 1.0 to 5.99. The effect of a boiling water pretreatment on the rate of diffusion relative to un treated samples depends upon the temperature at which they are compared. Even though the density increases upon treatment, the rate of diffusion is greater when dyed at 60° but lower when dyed at 102°. The wet treatment lowers the activation energy for diffusion to about 18 kcal/mole, a value which is nearly independent of draw ratio.
The Stress-Strain Behavior of Dimensionally and Structurally Non-Uniform Wool Fibers in Water
Authors: Collins J.D. , Chaikin M. 
Published: March 2008

The areaa-atrain behaviors of wool fibers varying in cross-sectional area are cal culated theoretically and the predicted effects verified experimentally. Calculation of the uniform fiber curve has been carried out and values are obtained for the curve parameters for a range of cross-sectional area variability. Besides this type of dimensional irregularity, structural variations occur in wool fibers and these can considerably influence stress-strain behavior. A knowledge of the relationship between structural variability and stress-strain behavior can be used to test the adequacy of the various models which have been proposed to explain the mechanical hehavior of wool fibers. 'rhis has been achieved by predicting the stress-strain behavior that might be expected from fibers with varying structural compositions and comparing the results with actual stress-strain behavior variations (after removing any effects due to cross-sectional area variability). 1. Collins, J. D., J. Sci. Instr.40, 198-199, 1963. 2. Collins, J. D., Ph.D. Thesis, University of N.S.W., Australia, 1964. 3. Collins, J. D. and Chaikin, M., Proceedings of the 3rd International Wool Textile Research Confer ence, Paris, 1965. 4. Dusenbury, J. H. and Wakelin, J. H., Textile Res. J.28, 989-1005, 1958. 5. Evans, T. F. and Montgomery, D. J., Textile Res. J.23, 689-701, 1953. 6. Feughelman, M., Textile Res. J.29, 223-228, 1959. 7. Feughelman, M. and Haly, A. R., Colloque, "Struc ture de la Laine," Paris, 159-183, 1961. 8. Feughelman, M. and Lunney, H. W., Wool Sci. Rev.21, 25, 1962. 9. Feughelman, M., Textile Res. J.33, 1013-1022. 1963. 10. Kenny, P. and Chaikin, M., J. Text. Inst.50, T18- 38. 1959. 11. Lindberg, J., Textile Res. J.23, 683-689, 1953. 12. Lundgren, H. P. and Ward, W. H., "Ultrastructure of Protein Fibres," edited by R. Borasky, printed in U.S.A. by Academic Press, New York and Lon don, 1963, Page 64. 13. Meredith, R., J. Textile Inst.36, T107-130, 1945. 14. Munakata, H., Textile Res. J.34, 97-109, 1964. 15. Rigby, B. J., Textile Res. J.32, 1034-1035, 1962. 16. Schiefer, H. F., Fourt, L., and Krofp, R. T., Tex tile Res. J.17, 689-713, 1947. 17. Skertchly, A. R. B., J. Textile Inst.55, T154-161. 1964. 18. Skertchly. A. R. B., Nature202, 161-164, 1964. 19. Turner. J. D. and Woods. H. J., Colloque, "Struc ture de la Laine," 19-24, Paris, 1961.
The Stress—Strain Characteristics of Animal Fibers After Reduction and Alkylation
Authors: Crewther W.G. 
Published: March 2008

Animal fibers were reduced to varying degrees with solutions of thiols and alkylated with methyl iodide or ethylene dibromide. The stress-strain curves of S-methylated Lincoln wool fibers showed the following characteristics. The stresses at the end of the Hookean region and yield region and the breaking stress approached zero at zero disulfide content and maintained a constant ratio. Likewise the slopes of the yield and post-yield region showed a constant ratio and extrapolated to zero at zero disulfide content. The decrease in stress or slope per disulfide bond broken was much greater at low disulfide contents than at high disulfide contents. The strains at the end of the yield region and at break increased with decreasing disulfide content and the effect of each disulfide broken was greatest at low disulfide contents. The relationship between strain at the end of the yield region and residual disulfide content was the same, within experimental error, for all fiber types. Reduction followed by reaction with ethylene dibromide did not greatly affect the stress-strain properties of the fibers. Reduction without subsequent alkylation, how ever, decreased the stiffness of the fibers much more than the rupture of an equal number of disulfide bonds by reduction and methylation. It is concluded that side-chain interactions between helical structures and matrix molecules containing many intrachain disulfide bonds are chiefly responsible for stiffen ing the fiber in the Hookean region. The yield and post-yield regions also are con sidered in terms of interactions between microfibrils and matrix, particularly with respect to the effects of disulfide bonds linking proteins in the two phases.
Vinylated Cotton
Authors: Chiddix M.E. , Duncan J.J. , Fredericks R.J. , Glickman S.A. , Hecht O.F. 
Published: March 2008

Samples of vinylated cotton slivers with DS (degree of substitution) values of about 0.05 and below were found to be soluble in cupriethylenediamine hydroxide solution. Vis cosity determinations indicated D.P.'s of 97 to 586 which were considerably lower than that of the starting cotton (about 3000). Samples with higher D.S. values were all insoluhle in the reagent indicating at least a small amount of cross-linking. X-ray diffraction patterns made from the vinylated cotton slivers and cloth showed a nearly complete loss of cellulose crystallinity at D.S. values above about 0.10. This indicates good penetration of the crystalline regions by the catalyst and acetylene in the vinylation reaction. Good crease recovery angles were obtained by heating a sample of vinylated cotton print cloth ( D.S. = 0.21 ) with acidic catalysts. Most samples had breaking strength measurements 55-85% of the control cloth and showed 20-50% elongation at break.
On Huberty's Coefficient of Irregularity of Yarns and its Estimators
Authors: Linhart H. 
Published: March 2008

The coefticient K (Huberty) has been introduced to obtain a characterization of the irregularity of yarns, which depends only on the structure of the distribution of the fiber endpoints along the axis of the yarn and not on the length L and cross section Q of the fibers, and also not on the expected number of fiher endpoints per unit length. The coefficient K is a parameter which has to be estimated from a piece of yarn of length T. In this paper, bias and standard error of the customary ( K1) and an alternative ( K2) estimator are obtained. For ideal yarn, the mean and variance of K1 and K2 depend only on the sampling ratio s = L/T. The estimators have, therefore, properties which one would demand in analogy to the requirements which led to the introduction of k. Both, in particular K2, are very suitable for a test of the hypothesis that the yarn is ideal. It is conjectured that the estimators are approximately distributed as a constant times χn2 (chi-squared with n degrees of freedom), where the constant and n are functions of s only. Significant points of K are given. If the yarn is real, k has certain disadvantages: it depends not only on the structure of the distribution of endpoints (on the statistical anomaly), but also on L; it covers only "short-term irregularity." Bias and standard error of the estimator depend—besides on s—also on the anomaly and similar higher- order parameter functions. If the logic leading to k is applied to some of the usually used parameter functions of the yarn (covariance function, spectral density, variance length curve) one obtains— for ideal yarn—standardized parameter functions which depend only on L, and this dependence is such that it can be eliminated by a suitable choice of scale on the abscissa. The paper is based on the traditional model which has been considerably extended by Giesekus [1, 2] whose terminology is also used here.
Drafting Force in the Front Zone of a Double Apron Drafting System
Authors: Audivert R. , Villaronga M. , Coscollá R. 
Published: March 2008

The drafting force was measured in the apron zone of the Casablancas GX-2 drafting system by causing a small deflection in the slubbing being drafted between the aprons at the front rolls. The drafting force increased with the size of the front beard, i.e., with total draft, fiber length, speed of drafting, ambient relative humidity, and regain of the material. The drafting force decreased as the break draft and apron-to-apron spacing increased. There was a difference in the force when the roving was fed in the normal direction and then in the reverse, thus showing that the effect of fiber hooking that originated at the card still persists at the spinning frame. For good spin, a certain amount of fiber tension is necessary at the front draft zone, but an excessive tension of the front beard will not always lead to optimum conditions.
Continuous Shrink-Resist Treatment of Wool Fabric with Ozone
Authors: Thorsen W.J. , Kodani R.Y. 
Published: March 2008

Continuous, rapid pruduction of highly shrink-resistant wool fabric is obtained by passing ozone in a carrier gas over one surface of hot, wet fabric moving in the opposite direction. Exhaustion of ozone from the carrier suggests that utilization is efhcient. Effective treatment requires a temperature of at least 95°C, ozone concentrations of 60 to 80 mg/liter, and treatment time of at least 30 sec. The fabric is not significantly degraded in the shorter treatments. Longer treatments impart increasing shrinkage resistance, but also increase dye uptake and solubility in acid and alkali, and decrease resistance to abrasion. In these tests, useful control of shrinkage was obtained with 0.01 1b of ozone per square yard of fabric at a cost of $0.0015/yd2 for the ozone in high volume use.