bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Introduction to the Influence of Rotor Cleanliness on the Properties of Open-End Yarns
Authors: Barella A. , Vigo J.P. 
Published: October 2007

The physico-mechanical properties of cotton and staple viscose open-end yarns were studied in connection with layer depth. It was observed that there are systematic trends, more visible for cotton yarns, for the parameters considered here, dependent on bobbin build. Thus, breaking strength and extension, resistance to repeated extensions, abrasion resistance, and short-term irregularity tend to deteriorate more or less as bobbin build increases. These phenomena are related to both material and rotor cleanliness, the spectrograms of the yarns being a valuable index to the existence of certain zones in the bobbin where the yarn presents anomalies in the shape of transient periodic irregularities together with deterioration of mechanical properties, yarn irregularity, and yarn defect content. Such anomalies gradually appear in cotton bobbins from spinning rotors in which no end break has occurred, culminating in the outer layers (full bobbin). But in the staple viscose bobbins they appear in the central layers and then disappear, which is thought to be related to the accumulation of impurities in the rotor and to the eventual break of the yarn and subsequent cleaning operation. The fact that there should be less difference between the beginning and the end of the bobbin for staple viscose yarns is attributed to the greater cleanliness of this fiber as compared with cotton. Other yarn parameters such as diameter and hairiness are affected by the phenomena mentioned above, but the nature of the fiber can offset, to some 'extent, some of the observed effects. The differences observed, while significant in some cases, are usually not great, but the existence of yarns with fluctuations in their irregularity, fault content, and hairiness, can originate defects and patterning in the woven fabric; it is thus concluded that the cleanliness of the rotor is a factor of major importance is open-end spinning.
An Analysis of Carding Efficiency and Processing Performance of Cotton /Polyester Blends
Authors: Simpson Jack , Fiori Louis A. 
Published: October 2007

The effect of various levels of cotton and polyester fibers blended during opening and picking on carding efficiency and processing performance was investigated. The cotton was middling grade, 1 1/16-in. staple length, and 4.2 micronaire reading; the polyester was high modulus, 1.5 in. long, and 1.5 denier. As the percent polyester in the blend increased, compression recovery increased moderately and shear friction appreciably. The increase in friction offset the increase in compression recovery so that cylinder load, fiber hooks, and card sliver variability increased with greater polyester content. However, as the polyester content increased, the increase in fiber friction and length uniformity improved drafting efficiency so that second drawing sliver and yarn uniformity improved. Increasing the polyester content of a blend did not improve yarn grade; high cotton content blends had the same grade as high polyester content blends. At constant end breakage, production in spinning increased rapidly to a 65c/35p blend; additional increases in polyster resulted in only slight improvements in spinning efficiency. Very little polyester was lost in the carding waste even with close flat-to-cylinder settings (0.010 in.), which no doubt provided better carding action on the cotton component in the blend than do settings commonly used. However, it is possible that this close a setting for high percentage polyester blends might cause excessive cylinder loading under mill conditions.
Travel Agency Marketing Strategy: Insights from Switzerland
Authors: Dolnicar Sara , Laesser Christian 
Published: October 2007

This article provides insight into alternative strategies for travel agencies in a matured travel market with a high Internet penetration. Discounting arguments that claim that there will be no need for travel agents in the future, two possible roles for travel agents can be derived from theory and prior studies in the field: travel agents can survive if they focus on specific specialized services, such as travel consultation (specialization; hypothesizing that systematic differences exist between the usage of travel agents for different travel contexts); and travel agents can survive if they focus on specific segments of the market, such as older travelers (segmentation; hypothesizing that systematic differences exist between the usage of travel agents depending on the personal characteristics of travelers). Results indicate that the use of travel agencies is indeed associated with specific services related to package holidays, transport services, beach or city holidays, as well as destinations travelers are not familiar with. In contrast, no clear association between travel agent use and sociodemographic characteristics of travelers exists. Hence, the findings from this study support the notion that the most promising future for travel agents will lie in specializing in travel contexts and travel components where other booking channels and media are unlikely to be able to offer a full substitute for travel agent services.
Literacy, Illiteracy, and Learning From Television News
Authors: Stauffer John , Frost Richard , Rybolt William 
Published: October 2007

This paper reports on an investigation of the abilities of literates and adult nonreaders to recall and use information from a national network television news program. On a test of unaided recall of news stories the literates recalled 55% more stories than the nonreaders. On a multiple-choice test of information gain from the news program, the literates performed 63% better than the nonreaders. The samples were found to be virtually identical in their use of and opinions about television news. A control group of college students was given the information test without first seeing the news program and did no better than chance. The most important factor affecting recall was the length of time the story was on the air. Human interest stories were recalled much better by both groups than any other type of story. The level of performance among the adult nonreaders correlated highly with their reading levels.
Human Resource Policies and Company Performance: A Quantitative Approach Using Longitudinal Data
Authors: d'Arcimoles Charles-Henri 
Published: October 2007

The organization of employment is often seen as a means to attain or retain competitive advantage in current product markets. High committment organizations and flexible specialization workplaces are some of the new labels of such modem human resource policies (Osterman 1994), the shaping of which should result in high performance. From an outsider's perspective, for instance that of an investor or a banker, such an assumption raises two important sets of questions: - The first concerns the main features of these supposed high-performance work systems and their true association with economic performance indicators. These questions relate to a better understanding of new human resource management (HRM) models in order to understand the effects of HRM on the performance of the firm. - The second set of questions concerns the ability of outside actors to analyze and truly understand these HRM models, about which they often have only poor and piecemeal information. In the event of a negative answer, investors and other outside actors might well be tempted to ignore or distort HRM issues. The latter set of questions is rarely considered by recent research. It is more often the case that investors and financial markets do not fully consider human resource management issues because of speculation and the short-term pressures which are seen to dictate their decisions. Such pressures surely exist, but the main problem might relate more to analytical and informational problems. In this respect, the paper suggests that the French Company Personnel Report could be a useful document. Its published data may enable investors to understand HRM issues more fully and to evaluate their impacts on the performance of the firm. Empirical results are thus presented which reveal some interesting and significant correlations between profitability or productivity ratios and HRM indicators. The two major conclusions are that (a) training expenses may have some important effects on immediate and future economic performance; and (b) some recovery effects of dismissals can also be identified.
Development Information in Sri Lanka
Authors: Karunanayake C.I. 
Published: October 2007

Reviews the present status of activities relating to development information in Sri Lanka with special reference to the role of the Centre for Development Information. Briefly outlines the generation of development information, the infrastructure developed for the collection, organization and dissemination of such information and resource-sharing programmes at the national. regional and international levels. Discusses the bibliographic control programme developed by the Centre for Development Information, highlighting the necessity of such a programme to avoid duplication of effort and Development information in Sri Lanka to overcome the problem of paucity of information for planning, policy making and research.
Desire for hastened death in patients with advanced disease and the evidence base of clinical guidelines: a systematic review
Authors: Hudson Peter L , Kristjanson Linda J , Ashby Michael , Kelly Brian , Schofield Penelope , Hudson Rosalie , Aranda Sanchia , O'Connor Margaret , Street Annette 
Published: October 2007

Purpose: Patients’ desire for hastened death within the context of advanced disease and palliative care is a controversial topic, frequently discussed in the international literature. Much of the discussion has focused on opinion and debate about ethical matters related to hastened death. Not many research studies seem to have specifically targeted why palliative care patients may desire hastened death, and few have focused on clinical guidelines for responding to such requests. Methods: Using a systematic literature review process, we evaluated the research evidence related to the reasons patients express a desire for a hastened death, and the quality of clinical guidelines in this area. Results: Thirty-five research studies met the inclusion criteria related to reasons associated with a desire for hastened death. The factors associated with a desire to die were often complex and multifactorial; however, psychological, existential and social reasons seem to be more prominent than those directly related to physical symptoms, such as pain. Much of the evidence supporting the reasons for these statements is based on: (a) patients’ perceptions of how they may feel in the future, and (b) health professionals’ and families’ interpretations of why desire to die statements may have been made. Several publications provided expert opinion for responding to requests for physician-assisted suicide and euthanasia. In keeping with this limited research base, there is a lack of evidence-based guidelines for clinical care that addresses the desire to die among terminally ill patients. Most literature has focused on discipline specific responses, with minimal exploration of how clinicians might respond initially to a statement from a patient regarding a desire to die. Conclusions: In order to advance understanding of the complex issue of desire for hastened death in the context of palliative care, research should focus on studies with patients who have actually made a desire to die statement and the development of guidelines to help health professionals respond. Direction for research in this area is described.
Listening to Jane Cunningham Croly's "Talks with Women": Issues of Gender, Dress, and Reform in Demorest's Monthly Magazine
Authors: Nelson Nancy J. 
Published: October 2007

This paper explores how popular women's magazines promoted change in women's roles and reform in dress during the nineteenth century. Selected writings about women and dress for Demorest's Monthly Magazine by its editor, Jane Cunningham Croly, are examined. A journalist and women's rights advocate, Croly wrote in support of women's advancement and tied issues of women in society to reform in dress and appearance. A fashion-oriented woman's magazine, Demorest's popularity was comparable to that of other such periodicals of the day, including Godey's Ladies Book. "Talks With Women," a column written by Croly and published in Demorest's are interpreted for indication of the ways that reform issues were incorporated into the popular press. The framework of gender as a category of analysis within the area of women's history is used for a discussion of the relevance of Croly's writings for contemporary interpretations of dress and gender identity. This discussion is structured around the following themes: (a) women and society, (b) women and fashion, and (c) women, dress, and reform. Croly's perspectives on women and dress were found to be similar to others of her day; however, her ability to make ideas espoused by various reform groups palatable to the audience of a fashion-oriented woman's magazine sets her apart from her contemporaries in the woman's magazine industry.
Effect of Garment Style on the Perception of Personal Traits
Authors: Paek Soae L. 
Published: October 2007

The personal traits formed by perceivers of a stranger clothed in two sets of polar garment styles, daring-conservative and dressy-casual, were investigated in this study. The relationship between clothing interest ratings of subject and personal trait ratings of each garment style was also explored. The cues conveyed by four garment styles on the judgment of 18 personal traits evaluated on 1-7 semantic differential ratings revealed that a stranger dressed in conservative and casual styles was perceived to be more self-controlled, understanding, and reliable, whereas a person dressed in daring style was regarded as more attractive and individualistic than a person clothed in other clothing styles. On the other hand, a stranger clothed in dressy style conveyed social unease and dependency on others. Significant positive correlations were found between the clothing interest ratings of subjects and several personal traits of daring garment style, while significant negative correlations were disclosed between the former and attractive and popular traits of conservative and casual styles. These findings seem to indicate that first impression conveyed by different clothing styles was also influenced by the clothing interest of perceivers.
Imported Apparel: Retail Buyers' Reasons for Foreign Procurement
Authors: Sternquist Brenda , Tolbert Sheila , Davis Bonnie 
Published: October 2007

As initial assemblers of merchandise assortments, retail buyers play a critical role in determining what clothing will be available to consumers. This study examined retail buyers' reasons for procuring imported apparel. Sixty-nine retail buyers for specialty, department, and discount stores were the subjects of the study. All subjects strongly believed that imports offer better quality for price than domestic products do. There were significant differences between buyers in specialty stores and buyers in discount stores on the question of exclusive merchandise andprivate branding: specialty store buyers indicated that these were important reasons for their buying imports. Analysis of covariance and stepwise multiple regression were used to examine the influence of age, education, salary, and position experience upon buyers' responses. Implications of these findings for domestic apparel manufacturers are discussed.
Eider Skin Garments Used by the Ungava Unuit from the Belcher Islands, Northwest Territories: Construction and Context
Authors: Oakes Jill 
Published: October 2007

Until recently, ancient skin clothing construction procedures using a variety of mammals, frsh, and birds have been passed down from one generation to the next in Inuit culture. Since about 1890, eider skins have been used for clothing on the Belcher Islands by the Ungava Inuit. Since the 1960's few young people have learned the historical skills of producing eider skin clothing from their elders. These skills have become obsolete in today's modern world The purpose of this research paper is to record procedures used to construct, lay out, alter, and maintain bird skin garments. It is critical to document these techniques before the elders who have the knowledge pass away. Participant-observation technique supplemented with data from museum artifacts, historic photographs, archival sources, and literature was used to collect detailed information on production procedures used to make men's, women's, and children's parkas, bonnets, stockings, and overslippers. A comparison is made between historical and contemporary sewing tools, construction techniques, and materials used in bird skin garments. Findings provide a more complete understanding of the role of dress in social/cultural survival. Findings also record an obsolete garment construction technique which will enable future generations to learn about their own historic material culture based on information presented by their ancestors.
Meanings in Mid-Nineteenth Century Dress: Images from New England Women's Writings
Authors: Gordon Beverly 
Published: October 2007

This article draws on the writings, including diaries, letters, etiquette books, and popular fiction, of mid-nineteenth-century women to explore the roles and meanings of dress in everyday life in Victorian New England By mid-century, with the rapid change engendered by industrialization, immigration, and urbanization, individuals were especially concerned about their social position and were preoccupied with social front, the persona they presented with their attire. Women were the prime monitors of their own and their family's dress and were responsible for front, as well as assembly, upkeep, and management of clothing. Their sense of self was intimately tied up with appearance, and they struggled simultaneously to keep up-to-date and to avoid being too fashionable and thereby conspicuous. Women's writings about dress indicate a general acceptance of their prescribed roles, including modesty, domesticity, nurturance, thrift, and piety. Personal accounts mirror the great amount of backrtage labor that was necessary to maintain the proper social front and the constancy and centrality of managing and caring for clothes. The women who emerge from the writings are hard workers, good managers, and intelligent and concerned individuals.
The Comely Rowers The Beginnings of Collegiate Sports Uniforms for Women Crew at Wellesley, 1876-1900
Authors: Warner Patricia Campbell 
Published: October 2007

Wellesley College, opened in 1875, had rowing from the beginning. Crews designed and wore individual costumes to distinguish their classes, starting in the sophomore year. These uniforms represent the earliest team uniforms for women in a collegiate setting in the United States. Costume became an important element of Float Day, the annual rowing event that lasted until 1948. However, the first 25 years, until 1900, were most important in developing a suitable uniform for the sport. From the first, the gymnastic dress was the model; in the 1880s fashion overtook function, but in the 1890s, because of improved rowing shells, regulation gymnasium costume became the norm. Archival written and photographic materials provided primary sources, but photo documentation raised important questions and problems for the historic researcher dealing with chronological dating.
The Fabric's the Thing: Literal and Figurative References to Textiles in Selected Plays of William Shakespeare
Authors: Owens Nancy J. , Harris Alan C. 
Published: October 2007

Shakespeare revealed his notion of the nature of his times and culture in his plays. In this study the authors concentrate on terms and references identified with textiles used in dress in the plays of William Shakespeare. They categorize those terms which are literal and those which are figurative. The analysis demonstrates that Shakespeare, a product of and interactive with his times, ultimately stated important generalizations regarding social, economic, and political conditions in Elizabethan society by means of those terms and references. Class consciousness, for example, permeated every aspect of Elizabethan society, and this comes through clearly in the distinctions made between three-ply velvet and hempen homespun, between silk and Welsh, flannel. By understanding the historical and social contexts of the terms used in the plays, the reader has a clearer understanding of the meaning of the plays as well as a deeper appreciation of the importance of textiles as used in dress throughout history. In addition, the analysis has validity for our own age as we use material in apparel to state aspects of, conditions of, issues in, or beliefs about our culture. The study, moreover, results in an applied, interpretive strategy for symbolically analyzing language phenomena in a literary creation.
Attitudes and Behavioral Intentions of Agricultural Workers Toward Disposable Protective Coveralls
Authors: Perkins Helena M. , Crown Elizabeth M. , Rigakis Katherine B. , Eggertson Bertha S. 
Published: October 2007

The purpose of this study was to understand better the behavior of grain farmers toward the use of disposable protective coveralls by measuring beliefs, attitudes, and other components of the Fishbein-Ajzen theory of reasoned action and determining relationships among these components. The results indicate that most of the farmers believe that wearing disposable coveralls would provide the best method of protection and a more secure feeling about pesticide use. Respondents believe important referents such as their spouses will likely suggest that disposable coveralls should be worn while applying pesticides. Overall, farmers have positive attitudes and behavioral intentions. Pearson correlations and regression analyses indicate significant relationships among all components of the model. Attitude and subjective norm together provide considerable influence on behavioral intention with attitude being the stronger component. Thus the Fishbein-Ajzen model was applied effectively to the behavior of wearing disposable protective coveralls.
Product Line Characteristics as Determinants of Quick Response Implementation for U.S. Apparel Manufacturers
Authors: Ko Eunju , Kincade Doris H. 
Published: October 2007

The purpose of this study was to identify the implementation of QR technologies by a broad spectrum of U.S. apparel manufacturers and to examine relationships between organizational characteristics and implementation of QR technologies. Conceptual framework for the study was based on the environmental interpretation model in the business domain (Daft & Weick, 1984, p. 284). The implementation level of selected QR technologies was the dependent variable, and the independent variables were product category, fashion change, and seasonal change. A better understanding of QR is needed to increase implementation of this approach to environmental change. A random sample of 306 U.S. apparel manufacturers was selected from a purchased list. A mail questionnaire was pilot tested, and the revised survey questionnaire was sent to plant managers. Adjusted response rate was 47% (n = 103). Descriptive statistics and one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) were used for data analysis. The most frequently used QR technologies were small lot orders, production planning with customer, computerized inventory, and short cycle cut planning. Fashion change was significantly related to implementation of QR technologies. This study contributes to the knowledge of the fashion change variable and has implications for strategic planning by U.S. apparel manufacturers.