bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Improved Ammonia Finishing of Corduroys1
Authors: Troope Walter S. 
Published: March 2008

Commercial use of the liquid ammonia process has expanded from its initial application as a pure finish technique on denims and bottomweight fabrics. In recent developments it is being used in con junction with crosslinking resin treatments, resulting in a rebirth of 100% cotton shirtings. It now promises a similar result for 100% cotton sheetings, which will soon be introduced to the market. Utilization of the process in specific areas has often required extensive product development in order to achieve the proper balance of physical and aesthetic properties required by today's consumer. One of the areas that has remained illusive has been in the application of ammonia finishing to corduroys. Previous attempts have resulted in significant improvements in performance after laundering, but the appearance of the fabric at the point of sale was not totally satisfactory. The major difficulty has been associated with excessive shrinkage and disorientation of the pile structure during ammonia treatment. New developments in ammonia finishing of corduroys have now been achieved by stabilizing the pile structure through a controlled resin treatment prior to ammonia treatment. This has proven to be effective in limiting excessive shrinkage and distortion of the pile as well as minimizing the flattening of the pile during ammonia removal. These results have been achieved in addition to re taining most of the benefits normally associated with liquid ammonia treatment.
Studies on Fiber Belts in Rotor-Spun Yarns
Authors: Sengupta A.K. , Dutta B. , Radhakrishnaiah P. 
Published: March 2008

The formation of belts and their influence on tenacity of rotor-spun yarns have been studied. When two fibers of different lengths are blended together, the longer fiber predominates as belts, with the result that the composition of constituents in the form of belts is changed considerably. An increase in twist density increases the number of belts but has no influence on the composition of constituents in the belts. Neither differences in denier nor in fiber type has any marked influence on the composition of belts in blended yarns. Contrary to the generally-held view, it has been observed that belts can help in enhancing the strength of rotor-spun yarns. When a small percentage of long viscose fiber is blended with a short staple cotton, the blended yarn strength improves due to the reinforcement of the yarn matrix through belts. The influence of belts is most pronounced when the twist factor used is low.
Horizontal Burning Rates of Fabrics with Low Add-Ons of Fire Retardant
Authors: Reeves Wilson A. , Hammons Margerite A. 
Published: March 2008

Plain-weave, scoured, and bleached cotton (103 g/m2) and polyester/cotton (92 g/m2) fabrics were treated with two durable, fire-retardant, durable-press finishes. The retardants were based on Fyrol 76® (contained phosphorus) and Caliban® F/R P®-44 (contained bromine). Oxygen index (OI) and horizontal burning rates at atmospheric oxygen concentration were studied with emphasis on fabrics with low add-ons of the retardants. OI values increased as add-ons increased; however, the OI values were increased about twice as much by 2% add-on at low levels of add-on as with 2% at high levels of add-on. Rate of burning of both type fabrics was greatly affected by very low add-ons of the retardant. The burning rate of cotton with about 1 to 3% add-on was increased as much as 58%; that of the polyester/cotton was increased 24%. The increased burning rate is apparently related to theamount of cotton in the fabric. Polyester/cotton (PE/C) fabric required substantially less retardant than cotton to become self-extinguishing in the horizontal position.
Dacron®/Orlon® Blends in Apparel—Product Value, Wear Comfort, Energy Savings, and Environmental Aspects
Authors: Wallenberger F.T. 
Published: March 2008

A growing trade interest has recently developed in cotton spun yarns from blends of low-dpf Dacron® and Orlon® staple for traditional cotton-type knits and wovens. Dacron as the major blend com ponent (e.g. 75%) offers excellent strength, ease-of-care, better fabric stability, and better whiteness retention than cotton and cotton blends. Orlon as the minor blend component (e.g. 25%) offers a soft, natural hand, high bulk and cover, superior coloration potential, and better wear comfort than cotton and cotton blends. Dacron/Orlon blends will place a lower demand on energy resources—an important advantage today and for the future. They dry faster in finishing plants and home dryers. Also, lower wash temperatures and shorter drying cycles are satisfactory in commercial and home-laundering. Dacron/ Orlon blends use less water in commercial dyeing operation and hence conserve an important resource. Furthermore, Dacron/Orlon dyebaths gave lower effluent loads than those used for cotton and blends. In addition, the cotton dust problem is eliminated with Dacron/Orlon blends.
Mechanics of Large Deformation of Twisted-Filament Yarns
Authors: Komori Takashi , Makishima Kunio , Itoh Motoyoshi 
Published: March 2008

An extended theory on the mechanics of twisted homogeneous-filament yarns is put forth, in which yarns are regarded as random fiber assemblies characterized by the distributions of fiber orientation; the large deformation is discussed, taking into consideration the possible change in fiber orientation. The obtained result relates the load-strain properties of twisted-filament yarns to those of the original twistless strands, the orientation distributions, and the ratios of transverse contraction of the yarns. The general expression is applied to a special case of constant contraction ratio and reduced to an explicit formula. Experimental estimations of the distributions of orientation and other properties are carried out for actual yarns of various twists, on the basis of which their load-elongation relations are numerically calculated using the special formula. Their agreement with the experimental values is fairly good over the wide range of strain up to the breaking-point for the yarns of moderate twist (less than about 3.2 turns/cm).
Fabric Hand: Tactile Sensory Assessment
Authors: Winakor Geitel , Kim Charles J. , Wolins Leroy 
Published: March 2008

The assessment of fabric hand involves two major classes of variables: fabrics as stimuli with certain physical properties, and people as judges with certain traits. This research investigated the tactile sensory assessment of selected fabrics that varied in specified physical dimensions—namely : stiffness, roughness, and thickness—replicated in two fiber contents: cotton and polyester. In the analysis- of-variance design, physical dimensions of fabrics were taken as fixed, rather than random, variables, and judges as blocks. The subjective-hand properties were measured by polar adjectives using a 99-point certainty scale, transformed to normal deviates. Sensory responses of judges to the nine pairs of polar adjectives differed significantly with respect to all four main effects: fiber content, stiffness, roughness, and thickness. The sensitivity of the 99-point certainty scale resulted in a wide range of F values; various interactions were clarified by graphic analysis. Editing of data for suspected errors in responses caused few changes in the ANOVA results.
Determination of Free Formaldehyde on Cloth at Low Concentrations'
Authors: Floyd W.C. , Yoon S.H. 
Published: March 2008

When the AATCC Test Method 112-1978 is used to determine free formaldehyde on cloth, the accuracy and precision become progressively poorer as the level of free formaldehyde drops below 200 μg/g (ppm). Because of the introduction of new cellulose reactants, which yield ultra-low levels of formaldehyde on cloth, a modified analytical procedure has been developed that gives accurate and reproducible results with formaldehyde content on cloth in the range of 15 to 175 μg/g. This paper provides details of the colorimetric procedure, which is based on use of 3-methyl-2-benzothiazolinone hydrazone in lieu of the Nash reagent. No additional equipment is necessary.
Reagents for Low-Formaldehyde Finishing of Textiles
Authors: Petersen H. , Pai P.S. 
Published: March 2008

The most important reactants for finishing textiles are the N-methylol compounds. They not only crosslink with the cellulose but also split up to form formaldehyde. To decrease the content of formaldehyde on the fabrics finished with N-methylol compounds, a very efficient fog-chamber technique using solutions of special formal dehyde-binding substances was developed, which reduces the liberation of formalde hyde on finished fabrics to levels below 100 ppm, according to the AATCC Sealed Jar Test Method 112—1975. Low-formaldehyde finishing agents can be prepared by etherifying the methylol groups with alcohols. Fabrics finished with N-alkoxymethyl compounds give off less formaldehyde than those finished with the corresponding unetherified methylol compounds. A few examples are demonstrated. Using the basics of statistical experi mental designs, it was possible to optimize a finishing process with a partly etherified dimethylol-4.5-dihydroxyethyleneurea to obtain simultaneously all desired levels of properties, including a low level of formaldehyde release. A new class of crosslinking agents is described with a nonformaldehyde-containing reactive group beside a N-methylol or N-alkoxymethyl group as a second reactive group on the base of 4-hydroxy- and 4-alkoxy-cycloalkyleneureas. The optimum of application conditions to obtain the desired properties was derived from the results of experimental designs. Another class of crosslinking agents for easy-care, antipilling, and hydrophilic finishing of polyester/cotton fabrics, where cotton is equal or less than 50% in the blend, was developed on the base of polyfunctional carbamates. In comparison to the methylol compounds of cyclic ureas, these products show a higher molecular weight. They are ideal for the swelling and crosslinking of cellulose under heat conditions and provide a smooth, pleasing hand to the finished fabric. This class of reactants exhibits lower abrasion loss than glyoxal reactants and shows less development of unpleasant formaldehyde odor on treated fabrics than most of the usual glyoxal-based reactants.
Low-Formaldehyde Finishing in Production
Authors: Lee Wayland R. , Smith Louis W. , Hoffman Julian H. 
Published: March 2008

The relative importance of the contribution of the various chemical structures present in the fabric to the total formaldehyde-evolution potential of the fabric will vary with the reactant used and finishing conditions. Experience and limited studies with dynamic air-flow systems indicate a correlation between AATCC Test Method 112-1975 results and formaldehyde evolution from the fabric during storage and use. The chemical structure of the reactant nucleus is more important than formalde hyde mole ratios in determining formaldehyde-evolution potential. Methylation of reactants greatly improves their formaldehyde-evolution potential. Proprietary prod ucts can afford even lower formaldehyde-evolution potential. Shifts in equilibria on dilution can increase unreacted formaldehyde in reactants. Nitrate salts or modified magnesium chloride catalysts give good results. Exces sively strong catalysts are detrimental. Relatively high fixation levels are needed to achieve low formaldehyde-evolution potential. Alkalis or buffers have an adverse effect. A near neutral pH on the finished fabric is advantageous.
Electrical Stimulation of Fabric Filtration
Authors: Lamb G.E.R. , Costanza P.A. 
Published: March 2008

With zero airflow, the currents passing between parallel wires in contact with a fabric appear to be the sum of corona currents and of non-ohmic conduction currents. The origins of the latter are not clear. Wheo an aerosol is flowing, electrode currents increase with increasing air velocity. Part of this effect seems due to charges carried on the aerosol particles, and part may be due to distortion of the ion cloud by the moving air stream. Pressure-drop reduction by external electric fields generated with wire electrodes occurs in two ranges: below corona voltages there is a small dependence on applied field, while above that voltage the dependence is much steeper. It is assumed that the latter case is the result of heavier particle-charging by the ion cloud. It seems, therefore, that corona-charging of the aerosol can play an important role in reducing pressure drop by ESFF. However, another mechanism appears to operate—one which becomes apparent if fabrics with different degrees of packing density are compared. Then, the pressure-drop dependence on applied field shifts with changing packing density in a manner, that suggests the onset of additional polarization effects.
Studies on Structural Deformities in Egyptian Cotton Fibers
Authors: El-Sahhar Kassem F. , Al-Ashwat Ali A. , Soliman Ahmed S. 
Published: March 2008

This study deals with fiber deformities in thirteen cultivars of Egyptian cotton, namely: Giza 45, Giza 70, Menoufi, Giza 68, Giza 76, and Giza 77 of the long-staple category, Giza 67, Giza 69, Giza 75, and Dandora of the long-medium-staple category, and Giza 66, Giza 72, and Ashmouni of the medium staple category. The cotton fiber deformities were classified major and minor according to their frequency. The major fiber deformities included thin fiber, knee, knot, small spur, and large spur, whereas the minor fiber deformities included forked and protuberant fibers. Difference in number of fiber deformities among the studied cultivars, types of fiber deformities, and the interaction between number and type of fiber deformities differed statistically. Fiber deformities occurred in about ½ to 2/3 of the developing neps, ensuring their troublesome role in the cotton textile industry. Neps were classified into groups according to number of fiber deformities associated with each, in order to evaluate the role of fiber deformities in neppiness.
Antibacterial Fiber Treatments and Disinfection1
Authors: Vigo Tyrone L. , Benjaminson M. Aaron 
Published: March 2008

Developments and research in the present decade on the antibacterial finishing and disinfection of textiles are reviewed. Definitions and concepts of terms such as antimicrobial agent, antibacterial agent, disinfectant, and sanitizers are discussed from both a regulatory and scientific perspective. Quantitative tests for determining antibacterial activity of textiles usually involve sterilization of fabric, inoculation with a microorganism, and determination of bacteria remaining by wash-recovery or colony-count under a low-power microscope. Most qualitative tests for antibacterial activity are based on the ability of the agent to diffuse off the fiber into an agar medium. Most antifungal tests consist of inoculation of fabric, then inspection for visual growth of fungi after varying periods of time. Microbial ecology of the skin-clothing interface differs in everyday environments and situations from environments conducive to growth of microorganisms and cross- infection ; predominant bacteria and fungi and microbial population on different parts of the body are discussed in this context. Microorganism persistence on textiles is influenced to some extent by fiber type. Recent studies show that synthetics retain more odor-causing bacteria, and that dermatophytic fungi are more persistent on synthetics than on natural fibers; persistence time of pathogenic bacteria,on natural and synthetic fibers is dependent on relative humidity and method of fabric contami nation. Newer and commercialized processes for producing antibacterial fabrics durable to laundering are evaluated, and frequently-used disinfectants and sanitizers for textiles are stressed. Various techniques for affixing such agents to fibers are listed, and requirements for producing effective antibacterial and antifungal fibers for particular end-uses are enumerated. Some novel and recent uses for antibacterial fibers, such as water disinfection and air purification, are also mentioned.
Oily-Soil Release for Easy-Care Cotton Fabrics1
Authors: Latta Bruce M. , Sello Stephen B. 
Published: March 2008

When crosslinked polyester-cotton blend fabrics came into general use about fifteen years ago, problems of soil retention that are inherent with these fabrics were soon recognized. Many studies were conducted to identify the factors responsible for soiling and soil retention in blends, and to develop finishes capable of improving soil release. Several finishes for the improvement of the soil-release properties of blend fabrics have been developed and introduced commercially. These finishes are typically based on one of three polymer types: nonionic poly(ester-ethers); anionic copolymers of acrylic acid; or "dual-action" fluoropolymers. Two particular finishes, developed in our laboratory, that are based on combinations of Huoropolymers with hydrophilic reagents, such as polyether derivatives and acrylic acid polymers, are discussed in detail.
The Relation Between the Number of Sulphonic Groups in Acid Dyes and the Yield Stress of Dyed Nylon Monofilament
Authors: Suganuma Keiko 
Published: March 2008

Studies have been made of the relation between the number of sulphonic groups in acid dyes and the yield stress of dyed nylon monofilament. The three dyes—mono-, di-, and tribasic azo dyes, which have α-naphthylamine → β-naphthol as a skeletal structure—were applied to nylon filament in a range of concentrations, and the yield stress of the dyed one was measured. The yield stress of the dyed nylon filament is larger than that of undyed one. It increases with increase in the dye concentration in the filament. But the effect seems to be much smaller when dyeing takes place on the terminal amine groups than when overdyeing. The concentration of dye in the filament in which the amine groups become saturated decreases with increasing sulphonation, so that in the same concentration of dye in the filament the yield stress increases with increasing sulphonation, and apparently the number of sulphonic groups seems to have an effect on the yield stress. But the careful treatment reveals that the net effect of dyes on the yield stress is independent of the number of sulphonic groups in dyes. This suggests that a polybasic dye behaves as a monobasic one in a region of overdyeing.
Application of Sonic Wave Theory to the Measurement of the Dynamic Elastic Moduli of Woven and Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Ryan A. , Postle R. 
Published: March 2008

The dynamic elastic modulus is one of the fundamental properties of textile materials and also one of the most difficult to quantify. The development of sonic methods to measure this property results in a test that is simple and nondestructive as well as being independent of sample cross-sectional characteristics. A brief survey of the literature based on this technique reveals both the limited application of theory and also the limited range of test samples and conditions that have been treated, especially in the fabric area. The fundamental theory of dynamic modulus measurement and the theory of sonic wave propagation is developed in this paper and is applied to series of laboratory- produced and commercially-produced fabrics. Three separate series of experiments are undertaken to quantify the effects of fabric parameters (i.e. yarn crimp, degree of set, and fiber diameter) and yarn on the principal dynamic elastic moduli and the dynamic shear modulus for both woven and knitted fabrics. These experimental results show that the method predicts the configuration of fibers in fabrics and yarns. The indications are that this work can be expanded by the use of microprocessors and computers to predict fabric specifications from fiber and yarn properties. The application of this technique to quality and process control is also discussed.
Fire Retardance Treatment of Fabrics for the 80s: Smolder Resistant Cotton Treated with Boric Acid
Authors: Baitinger William F. 
Published: March 2008

Laboratory scale demonstrations have shown that cotton fabrics and battings that were treated with boric acid had excellent smolder resistance in upholstery composites when exposed to cigarette ignition. The results presented in this paper illustrate a reduction to practice using trimethylborate vapor as a chemical precursor to boric acid by Cotton Incorporated and a cooperator mill of a developmental, pilot operation of this technology. Details examined in the paper include requirements for a means of delivering methylborate to fabric in a dynamic system, chemistry and kinetics of the formation of boric acid, and equilibrated moisturization of fabric to ensure proper and complete reaction.
A Study of Hairiness and Diameter of Open-End Yarn Processed Through Single- and Double-Cylinder Carding Machines and Its Comparison with Ring Yarn
Authors: Sirang Yang , Dinfon Gou , Behery Hassan M. 
Published: March 2008

An investigation was made on the hairiness and diameter of ring and open-end (OE) yarns processed through single- and double-cylinder carding machines. Yarn hairiness was measured with a photoelectric tester designed by the East China College of Textile Technology. When the length and the number of frequency distributions of hairs of both yarns were measured, three conclusions were reached: 1) the total and average length of hairs and the percentage of extremely short and long hairs of OE yarns are both greater than those of ring yarns; 2) Hairiness of OE yarns processed through single- or double-cylinder carding machines is of nearly the same value in both total and average length but differs significantly in coefficient of variation; 3) the between-bobbin coefficient of variation of the hairiness of OE yarn is greater than that of ring yarn, but there is no great difference in the within-bobbin coefficients of variation of the hairiness of these two yarns. The diameter of OE yarn processed through the double-cylinder carding machine is about 2% smaller than that of yarn processed with the single-cylinder carding machine, which is not very significant. OE yarn has a lower coefficient of variation in diameter than ring yarn. The within-bobbin coefficient of variation in diameter of either OE yarn or ring yarn is higher than its between-bobbin coefficient of variation.
Electron Microscopical Analysis. of Oily Soil Penetration into Cotton and Polyester/Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Obendorf S. Kay , Klemash Nancy A. 
Published: March 2008

A method was developed for microscopical analysis of oily soils on fiber surfaces and in the fiber structure. Triolein, an unsaturated triglyceride which is a dominant consituent of human sebum, was applied to cotton and polyester/cotton fabrics with durable press finishes. Osmium tetroxide was used to label the triolein by reaction with the double bond. Backscattered electron imaging and electron beam X-ray microanalyses were used to study the location of the oil in the interfiber capillaries within yarns and in the fiber structure after 5, 10, and 15 soil-age-wash cycles. Large amounts of residual triolein accumulated in the interfiber capillaries within the yarns. Cotton fibers also entrapped oil in the crevices of fibers that had bean- shaped cross sections and in the lumen. Retention of oily soil by cotton fibers was thus highly dependent on fiber maturity. For polyester fibers, no triolein was ob served in the interior region of the fiber, although there were large quantities of residual oil on the fiber surfaces. A powdered detergent containing carbonate and zeolite builders cleaned fiber surfaces better than an unbuilt, liquid laundry detergent. Less residual triolein remained in the interfiber capillaries of cotton fabrics after laundry treatments using longer wash time, increased mechanical action, and a higher concentration of detergent. Treating with a prewash product containing an organic solvent re moved oil from the interfiber capillaries and the crevices of the cotton fibers. Oil in the lumen of the cotton fibers was partially removed by a prewash product followed by laundering, and completely removed by extraction with an organic solvent.