bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Modèle mathématique pour l'étude des équilibres physico‐chimiques de permanentes
Authors: CHIODI F. 
Published: May 2007

RésuméLa plupart des permanentes du commerce sont constituées d'acide thioglycolique (éventuellement associéà l'acide thiolactique), neutralisé par l'ammoniac, elles sont additionnées de carbonate d'ammonium comme tampon. Le système peut ětre traité comme la neutralisation d'un mélange d'acides thioglycolique et carbonique par l'ammoniac, et il est complètement défini par trois paramètres, trois concentrations, ou deux concentrations et le pH, ou trois paramètres analytiques indépendants. Les calculs théoriques de l'équilibre sont compliqués du fait qu'il s'agit de l'équilibre de deux diacides faibles neutralisés par une base faible. Un modèle mathématique développé exclusivement par des équations théoriques permet l'interprétation des équilibres et la réalisation des calculs fiable pour la préparation des formules remplissant certaines caractéristiques. Le modèle permet de réaliser facilement des simulations en faisant varier les concentrations, les acides (par la voie des constantes de dissociation) ou d'associer différents acids et/ou bases organiques ou minérales. Une application complémentaire du modèle est de tracer la courbe dérivée à la courbe de neutralisation et de cette façon mesurer l'effet tampon en différents points par la mesure de sa pente.
Rheological behaviour of ‘Cérat Cosmétique, Ph. F.’
Authors: SELLÉS E. , JIMÉNEZ I. , FRESNO M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisRheological analysis during the preparation of dermocosmetic products allows the deduction of properties related to consistency and fluidity, which are very important for cream application. This paper rheologically examines a cold‐cream formula, ‘Cérat Cosmétique’ from the French Pharmacopoeia. ‘Cérate’, or cold‐cream, is one of the most ancient cosmetic preparations.The Rheotest 2 viscometer, which was used for experimental determinations, allowed the rheograms to be plotted and the characteristic rheological constants to be calculated. On the basis of this information, the preparation under study was seen to present plastic behaviour. However, posterior thixotropic studies indicated that ‘Cérat Cosmétique, Ph. F.’ had no true thixotropic behaviour.
Reactivity of hair cystine in microemulsion media
Authors: ERRA P. , SOLANS C. , AZEMAR N. , PARRA J. L. , TOURAUD D. , CLAUSSE M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisReduction of keratin cystine by thioglycolic acid incorporated in microemulsions of the water/sodium dodecilsulphate/n‐pentanol/n‐dodecane system has been determined. The results obtained have been interpreted in relation to the properties of the reaction media. Microemulsions with constant oil‐to‐surface active mixture weight ratios (Ro/s) and different concentrations of water were chosen as reaction media. At low water concentrations a steep increase in reactivity with the increase of water was observed at all values of Ro/s. However it was more pronounced the higher the oil content. A relation between maximum cysteine formation and percolative behaviour of the microemulsion was found at high Ro/s values.
Sensitivity to perfumes and preservatives in patients with contact dermatitis
Authors: KINTZIOU H. , PAPAIOANNOU G. , RALLIS M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisPatients with contact dermatitis were patch tested for sensitivity to perfumes (perfume mixture, balsam of Peru) and to preservatives (formaldehyde). The percentages of sensitivity in Greek patients with contact dermatitis were 8.1% for the perfume mixture, 3.7% for the balsam of Peru and 2.3% for formaldehyde. It is notable that 1.4% of the patients demonstrated simultaneous sensitivity to the perfume mixture and to balsam of Peru, while no case of simultaneous sensitivity occurred for formaldehyde and the two other compounds. Factors such as sex, age, occupation and anatomic site of the appearance of dermatitis in patients were taken into account and related to the percentages of sensitivity.Comparing with the literature we have concluded that the frequency of appearance of sensitivity by Greek patients is not significantly different from the average observed for patients in Northern or Southern Europe.
Studies of factors affecting light scattering by individual human hair fibres
Authors: BUSTARD H.K. , SMITH R.W. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisAn automated goniophotometer has been built to investigate the scattering of light by different types of singly mounted human hair fibres using white light and laser illumination. The effects that varying hair colour and treatment (gold coating, ultraviolet irradiation and dyeing) have on the specular reflectance and on the half‐peak‐height width (ω) have been studied. The polarization of light has been used to discriminate between light reflected from the front surface and light scattered internally by the hair. It has been found that the analysis of results from individual hair fibres has been useful in understanding the light scattering mechanisms which occur in human hair.
Direct contact membrane method for evaluating preservative efficacy in solid cosmetics
Authors: TRAN A.T. , HITCHINS A.D. , COLLIER S.W. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA method was developed for evaluating in‐product preservative efficacy of solid cosmetics. Microbes (105–106 colony‐forming units) resting on membrane filters were placed in direct contact with the surface of pressed eye shadows at room temperature in a moist chamber. At daily intervals, or as appropriate, the filters were removed and viable counts were determined by pour plates of modified letheen agar. Linear regression analysis was used to evaluate preservative efficacy. Decimal reduction times (D values) of 1.2–1.7 days were obtained for Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 9027, Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 and Escherichia coli ATCC 8739 on in‐house pressed eye shadows preserved with parabens and Germall 115. An average D value of 1.7 was also obtained for P. aeruginosa and S. aureus on a commercially pressed eye shadow containing the same preservatives as the in‐house formulation. However, this commercial product was either totally ineffective or about 3–6 times less effective against E. coli. The predicted complete inactivation time corresponding to the above D value was about 9 days and was within the limits of current cosmetic guidelines for bacteria of ‘less than 0.1% survival by the 14th day.’
The skin microflora and the formation of human axillary odour
Authors: RENNIE P.J. , GOWER D.B. , HOLLAND K.T. , MALLET A.I. , WATKINS W.J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisWe have examined the relationship between human axillary skin microflora and underarm odour (UAO), in particular, the ability of cutaneous bacteria to transform steroids. A study was made of bacterial population density and odour intensity of the axillae of 34 normal male subjects. There was a statistically significant association between population density of aerobic coryneform bacteria and UAO intensity. No associations could be found between population densities of staphylococci, micrococci or propionibacteria and UAO intensity. An in vitro model for formation of UAO was developed, and used to test individual bacterial isolates. Only aerobic coryneforms could produce axillary odour in vitro, most notably C. xerosis. Many aerobic coryneforms could transform testosterone, the principal metabolites being 5α‐ and 5β‐DHT, androstenedione, and 5α‐ and 5β‐androstanedione. UAO positive coryneforms were more metabolically active than UAO negative bacteria. Micrococci also transformed testosterone to androstenedione, whilst staphylococci and propionibacteria could not metabolize it. A hypothesis for the role of aerobic coryneforms in the formation of human axillary odour is discussed.
Measurement of beard hair removal efficacy using image analysis
Authors: BREUER M.M. , ACKERMAN C.S. , POZZI S. , SNEATH R. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisUsing an image analyzer, a method was developed for measuring differences in the beard hair removal efficacy of shaving systems. The method involves the collection of shaved whiskers from three panels of shavers. The panelists use two different shaving products on the two sides of their faces which they alternate from day to day. The lengths or projection areas of about 200 whiskers from each shave is then measured using an electronic image analyzer. By comparing the mean values of the whisker lengths (areas), differences in hair removal efficacies less than 1% can be measured at statistically significant levels. The protocol allows the determination of differences in both the first and second cuts of hair lengths, when twin bladed razors are used.
Influence of hazelnut oil phospholipids on the skin moisturizing effect of a cosmetic emulsion
Authors: MASSON P. , MEROT F. , BARDOT J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisPrevious studies have shown significant differences between the moisturizing effects and skin tolerances of virgin and refined vegetable oils when incorporated in cosmetic emulsions. They have also shown significantly greater and longer lasting moisturizing potential for a cosmetic emulsion containing virgin vegetable oils when compared with refined oils in the same emulsion. Results were obtained with sweet almond and hazelnut oils. Hazelnut oil has now been analysed to show the effect of refining. The phospholipid content of the oil decreased from 286 ppm in virgin oil to traces in refined oil.These oils were added at 10% to a cosmetic emulsion applied twice a day for 28 days to the skin of 56 volunteers and the changes in moisturizing effect measured by means of the capacitance method (corneometer CM 240 Khazaka). Measurements were made under conditions of controlled temperature and humidity on the first day of application and repeated after 21 and 28 days of treatment. A significant increase in the moisturizing effect of the emulsion containing virgin hazelnut oil was found and this was itself significantly greater than the emulsion containing refined oil. Both emulsions had a greater moisturizing effect when compared with the control emulsion and the untreated skin.Phospholipids were isolated by dialysis from virgin oil and added to the refined oil (234 ppm). The moisturizing effect obtained with the emulsion containing the enriched refined oil was shown to be the same as that obtained with the virgin oil emulsion.
Preliminary Communication: Treatment of irritant contact dermatitis in workmen with perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether (Fomblin HC)
Authors: PANTINI G. , FORESTIERI R. , BRUNETTA F. , BENCINI P. L. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisNon‐allergic contact dermatitis is a major dermatological problem for the workmen of an important factory which manufactures industrial machines (SAIMP SpA) located at Padua. Such dermatitis is due to the presence in the environment of paints, solvents, surfactants, lubricants and metal powders (steel and cast‐iron). As medical treatment, the factory doctor practises the use of common barrier creams which do not give completely satisfactory results. To cope with this problem, some workmen were treated with preparations containing Fomblin HC.The highly successful results of this new type of treatment are reported: among other findings this study shows, through experimental evidence, that Fomblin HC has a protective effect not only against water soluble substances but also against oil soluble substances (in fact, the latter are probably the main cause of contact dermatitis contracted by these workmen).
Skin surface profile technique and its applications
Authors: HATZIS J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisIn this study the ‘skin surface profile’(SSP) technique and its applications are described. With this technique the SSP is replicated by means of silicone impression materials. The SSP preparations were studied by a stereomicroscope or microscopic projector. Some applications of SSP technique are as follows: a. measurement of the stratum corneum hydration, b. study of the profile of primary crests and lines, c. measurement of the primary crests reservoir available for extension, and d. estimation of the true area of the skin surface in a body region.
In vivo evaluation in man by two noninvasive methods of the stratum corneum barrier function after physical and chemical modifications
Authors: KOMPAORE F. , DUPONT Ch. , MARTY J.P. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThis study investigated the effect of different treatments on skin permeability, in vivo in man, by two noninvasive methods: transepidermal water loss (TEWL) determination measured with an evaporimeter, and Laser Doppler velocimetry (LDV) to measure the lag time before the vasodilatation induced by application of methyl and hexyl nicotinates.Different treatments were performed on forearms of volunteers: 1. removal of the stratum corneum by stripping, 2. occlusion and hydration of the stratum corneum, 3. application of three surfactants in aqueous solution (Tween 60, sodium dodecyl sulphate and cetyl trimethylammonium bromide).Increase in TEWL and decrease in lag time before the vasodilating effects of nicotinates measured with LDV after all treatments confirmed the modifications in skin permeability. The variations observed were more or less significant depending on the treatment, the investigative method, and the molecule used for the penetration study. With methyl (hydrophilic) nicotinate, the more TEWL increased, the more lag time decreased. A significant decrease in lag time after hexyl (lipophilic) nicotinate application was observed when there was a very high increase in TEWL. The lipophilic nature of the stratum corneum barrier was confirmed in vivo. Use of these two complementary methods, TEWL and LDV, allows the evaluation in vivo of the effect of different treatments on skin permeability in man.
The replacement of animal testing: ethical issues and practical realities
Authors: BALLS M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisIncreasing expectation that products and materials of many kinds should be ‘safe’ is leading to demands for more toxicity testing. At the same time, there is mounting pressure to reduce, refine and replace laboratory animal experimentation. The testing of cosmetics is particularly controversial. The only way out of this dilemma is the development, validation, acceptance and use of non‐animal test procedures, i.e. replacement alternative methods. Given realism and determination, more funding, better science and good strategic planning, the future for replacement alternatives, and thus for human and animal welfare, could be a very bright one.
Dental plaque – associated infections and antibacterial oral hygiene products
Authors: VERRAN J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisDental plaque accumulates on hard non‐shedding surfaces such as teeth, dentures and orthodontic appliances. This accumulation is facilitated by the absence of adequate oral hygiene procedures.The term ‘plaque’ describes a mass of microorganisms embedded in an organic matrix of host and microbial origin. In addition to the aesthetic desirability of ‘clean teeth, healthy gums and fresh breath’ associated with the absence of plaque, obvious consequences of the presence of plaque include tooth decay (dental caries), gingivitis and periodontal (gum) disease and denture associated problems.Thus the prevention of plaque formation, the reduction of plaque accumulation and the effective removal of plaque are considerations of the cosmetic and health professions alike.There are many oral hygiene products available to the general public – toothpastes, mouthwashes, denture cleaners, and, more recently, chewing gums and novel mouthwashes. Several of these products have antimicrobial components.This paper reviews the microbiology of plaque and plaque associated problems, and surveys the type of products currently available for maintenance of good oral hygiene. Potential areas for future development are also explored.
Viscosity regulation by surfactants
Authors: DAHMS G. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe viscosity of cosmetic emulsions is of great practical importance and related to their skin feel. To achieve a desirable and constant viscosity is not an easy task because numerous factors must be considered. Based on theoretical considerations a new surfactant, steareth‐5‐stearate, has been developed. It can be shown that its use, together with a second more hydrophilic surfactant, results in flowable emulsions, the viscosity of which remain stable under normal conditions.
Skin lipids
Authors: BROOKS G. , IDSON B. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisConcepts regarding the structure and function of the stratum corneum (SC) have changed from that of a tough film of loosely adherent cells to that of a two‐compartment system of protein‐enriched cells embedded in intercellular lipids. The two‐compartment arrangement enlarged the role of epidermal lipids from that of the plasticizing component of the SC to that of the epidermal barrier governing water‐holding properties as well as take‐up of water, the differences in permeability of topically applied lipophilic and hydrophilic agents as well as cohesion and desquamation of the SC. Barrier properties of SC are dependent largely on the intactness of the lipid lamellae that surround the corneocytes. The pliability of the SC depends on a correct balance of lipids, hygroscopic water‐soluble substances and water.Mammalian differentiation involves characteristic changes in lipid composition consistent with the requirements for waterproofing. There is a progressive depletion of phospholipids and glycosphingolipids with enrichment in ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids, and small amounts of other polar (e.g. cholesterol sulphate) and non‐polar species (e.g. hydrocarbons, cholesterol esters, triglycerides). The sphingolipids account for the most lipid by weight and are presumed to be of major importance for the water‐retaining properties of the epidermal barrier. Decrease of sphingolipid content occurs in aged skin. Deficiency of essential fatty acids leads to enhanced transdermal water transport in addition to dryness and scaliness of the skin. A mixture of both saturated and unsaturated fatty acids produces the optimal barrier to water loss from the SC. The balance between solid crystal and liquid crystalline phases in epidermal lipids is determined by the degree of fatty acid unsaturation and the amount of water.
Changes in glutathione content in human hair follicle keratinocytes as a function of age of donor: relation with glutathione dependent enzymes
Authors: PRUCHE F. , KERMICI M. , PRUNIERAS M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisGlutathione (GSH) plays an important role in cellular protection during ageing. The hair plucking technique is a non‐invasive method for the direct biochemical study of keratinocytes. Hair was taken from the suboccipital area of 63 volunteers (men and women whose ages ranged from 13 to 103 years). The results show a diminution in the glutathione content as a function of age. We compare two groups of population: group A (less than 80) and group B (more than 80). A remarkable fact is observed: group B displays a weak dispersion of the values as compared to A. The glutathione content (nmol 10−3 mg DNA) is 5.42 ± 0.60 for A and 1.86 ± 0.35 for B. A reduction of 88% was observed in glutathione reductase activity and of 78% in the activity of glutathione‐S‐transferase from group A to group B. The glutathione peroxidase activity remains relatively constant. The decrease in the GSH concentration and the constancy of the glutathione peroxidase suggest that the capacity of the cell to protect itself from peroxides remains unchanged but that the GSH concentration may become the limiting factor.
Propriétés antiélastasiques des propionylaminoacides
Authors: LAFFORGUE Ch. , CROUTE F. , NICOLAS J.F. , HARTMANN D.J. , DELAPORTE E. , COTTE J. , MARTINI M.C. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisAntielastase activity of derivatives like ‘propionylaminoacid’(C3 prolin, C3 hydroxyprolin, C3 collagen) was examined for pancreatic elastase, and fibroblastic elastase production. Essential metabolic variations of normal dermal fibroblasts were evaluated: adhesion, proliferation capacity, total protein biosynthesis and collagen type I and type III production. Possible other factors such as cellular nutrients were examined by oxygen consumption evaluation.Propionylaminoacid derivatives have antielastase activities. Pancreatic elastase showed dose related inhibition (20% to 50% inhibition for concentration from 5 to 80 mg ml−1.Moreover, fibroblastic elastase production was inhibited, cellular respiration was enhanced. A very good tolerance in vitro was observed for concentration 0–1 mg ml−1 range: adhesion, proliferation capacity and collagen (type I and type III) production were not altered, and oxygen consumption was enhanced.
Fine details on the surface of human hair
Authors: SWIFT J.A. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisSome previously unreported fine variations in the form of normal hairs are described as they are observed in the scanning electron microscope (SEM). They all arise in the course of surface frictional wear and the chipping away of the hair surface scale edges and include remanent surface impressions of cuticle scale edges, ‘false’ scale edges, granular surface remnants and highly irregular (chevron) scale patterns. Mechanisms are proposed for the way in which each of these different fine features arise.The paper also contains deliberations on the conditions for operating the SEM consistent with obtaining the best information about the architecture of hair surfaces. The correctness of viewing orientation of scanning electron micrographs is also emphasized to avoid misinterpretation of features on the hair surface.
Novel quaternary ammonium salts derived from triglycerides and their application in skin and hair products
Authors: BAYDAR AHMET , JOHNSTON RICHARD 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisAn investigation has been carried out into the synthesis of quaternary ammonium salts of triglycerides. The aim of this work was to produce such compounds without breaking the triglyceride skeleton. The reaction of chloracetyl chloride with the triglyceride of ricinoleic acid which is the major constituent (88–90%) of castor oil gave an intermediate derivative with pendant chloro groups. Quaternization with stearyl dimethylamine gave a 98% yield of a quaternary ammonium salt containing three quaternary groups per molecule. This reaction sequence overcame the steric hindrance problems encountered in unsuccessful attempts to quaternize halogen groups attached directly to the main chain. Using the same procedure, a quaternary salt was prepared from castor oil.In skin care studies this quaternary was used at a low level in a moisturizing lotion. Subjective assessment of the ease of application of the test lotion versus control was significantly in favour of the test. Viscoelastic measurements of the skin were made using two techniques before and after application of the lotion. Both showed an advantage to the test lotion. No difference between the test and control lotions was found when sebum levels and transepidermal water loss measurements were measured. A C‐12 quaternary synthesized from dimethyl‐dodecylamine exhibited antimicrobial activity. An aqueous dispersion of the C‐18 quaternary when applied to bleached hair in order to improve combing, gave excellent results showing superiority to four other commercially available quaternary ammonium salts.