bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
The role of sebum and epidermal lipids in the cosmetic properties of skin
Authors: DOWNING DONALD T. , WERTZ PHILIP W. , STEWART MARY ELLEN 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisLipids found in the skin are derived both from the keratinized epidermis and from the sebaceous glands. The composition of human sebum and epidermal lipids has only been fully elucidated during the past few years, and the role of these lipids is still being evaluated. This presentation reviews sebaceous gland structure and function composition of human sebum, the effects of aging and hormones on sebum secretion and the role of sebum in acne and in dry skin. In addition, a review of the role of epidermal lipids in the properties of skin includes consideration of the structure and function of the epidermis, the composition of the epidermal lipids, and the function of lipids in epidermal differentia‐tion and water barrier properties. Le r&#x006f;&#x030c;le du sébum et des lipides de I'épiderme dans les propriétes cosmétiques de la peau
Transformation of steroids by axillary coryneform bacteria
Authors: GOWER D. B. , NIXON A. , JACKMAN P. J. H. , MALLETT A. I. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe contribution made by the apocrine glands to body odour has been discussed. In particular, the role of odorous steroids, such as 5α‐androst‐16‐en‐3‐one (5α‐A), and their formation by axillary bacteria, has been explored. Isotopically labelled testosterone was incubated (21 days at 37°C) with strains of axillary bacteria, both separately and in mixtures, and the products characterized by capillary gas chromatography (GC) and GC‐mass spectrometry. In many cases testosterone was converted into large yields of 5β‐dihydrotestosterone and 4‐androstenedione, although 5α‐dihydrotestosterone, 5β‐androstanedione and androstanediols were also produced. Mixing certain coryneform bacteria appeared to cause some additive and some inhibitory effects. A non‐polar steroid, with polarity similar to that of 5α‐A, was formed in some incubations, but identification could not be confirmed. Nevertheless, preliminary experiments have indicated that 5α‐A is present in axillary hair of men, and the possible reasons why we have failed to prove the biosynthesis of this odorous steroid are discussed. La transformation des steroïdes par la bactérie coryneforme des aisselles L'article traite du r&#x006f;&#x030c;le des glandes apocrines dans l'odeur corporelle et de la composition des sécrétions apocrines en particulier des 16‐androstènes. Deux de ces stéroïdes, le 5α‐androst‐16‐en‐3‐one (5α‐androsténone) et le 5α‐androst‐16‐en‐3α‐ol provoquent des phénomènes phéromonaux sur le porc et vraisemblalbment sur l'homme. Etant donné que l'odeur axillaire caractéristique est liée à la présence de bactéries coryneformes, et qu'elle peut ětre combattue par des agents anti bactériens, nous avons tenté d'identifier l'origine de la 5 androstenone malodorante qui est peut ětre également le résultat de l'activité bactériènne.Pour cela la testoterone marquée avec un isotope radioactif a été incubée pendant 21 jours à 37°C en présence de bactéries coryneformes prélevées sur la peau et les poils des aisselles de l'homme. La testosterone non marquée et la langes de bactéris coryneformes ont été incubées en presence de testostérone marquée, le profil des métabolites obtenus deffére de celui qui résulte de bactérics parises individuellement. On a observé des effects tantčot additifs, tantčot inhibiteurs. Cela indique que la situation in‐vivo est d'une grande complexité car quelque 350 souches différcntcs dc bactéries coryneformes peuvent étre impliquées.Dans des expériences précédentes nous avons montré que la 5γ‐androstenone est présents sur les poils de lapos;aisselle de l'homme, mais n' avons pas pour autant réussi à montrer la biosynthése dc cc stéroïde. Parmi les raisons possibles 'a cel'a il y a la néessité d'un substrat stéroïde de remplacement et un micro milicu aérophile ou anaérobie.
The effectiveness of cosmetic products in alleviating a range of skin dryness conditions as determined by clinical and instrumental techniques
Authors: PRALL J. K. , THEILER R. F. , BOWSER P. A. , WALSH M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA vast array of cosmetic products are used routinely by consumers to alleviate a range of skin care problems. Consumer concern ranges from age‐associated skin changes to complexion (e.g., spots and pimples) and dryness. However, a major cause for concern amongst European female consumers is skin dryness, which spans all age ranges and skin types. Utilizing instrumental procedures (Squametry and Image Analysis) the severity of skin dryness has been correlated with expert assessment and consumer perception of dryness. The sensitivity of these techniques enables one to follow the progression of dryness alleviation for a range of product forms (e.g., creams and lotions) as well as the purported mechanism of action of various ingredient systems (e.g., occlusivity, moisturization). While conventional cosmetic products are shown to be effective, these techniques can be used to aid in the assessment and formulation of more effective products. Efficacité des produit cosmétiques à l'allégement d'un spectre d'états de peau sèche selon des measures cliniques et au moyen d'instruments
Oestrogen identification and dosage in filatov human placenta extracts by high performance liquid chromatography
Authors: BEYSSAC I. , MARTINI M. C. , COTTE J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisUsing high performance liquid chromatography the presence of natural oestrogen traces in aqueous placenta extracts of human origin has been demonstrated. This study, corroborated by results obtained by colorimetric dosage and by gaseous phase chromatography, reveals the preponderance of oestriol, which represents 80% of all the oestrogens.In all the extracts studied, oestriol concentration was not more than 100° per litre of extract. This quantity of oestrogen contained in human placenta extracts of the Filatov type, even in wide cutaneous applications, cannot influence the subject's hormonal balance.
The use of transepidermal water loss to measure and predict the irritation response to surfactants
Authors: MURAHATA RICHARD I. , CROWE DANIEL M. , ROHEIM JOHN R. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe ability of baseline transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements to predict the response of healthy subjects to a standard soap chamber irritation insult was evaluated. Chambers containing surfactant solutions were applied to the forearms of normal volunteers for five consecutive days. TEWL was measured using a Servo Med Evaporimeter. TEWL measurements were made prior to the first application of the chambers and following the removal of the second set of chambers (the afternoon of Day 1). The correlation between the TEWL values obtained on Day 1 and the subjective evaluation of irritation resulting from the application of two different toilet soaps was statistically significant. This result indicates that damage to the skin is reflected by an increase in TEWL. Interestingly, there was also a statistically significant correlation between TEWL values obtained on the untreated skin at Time 0 and the five‐day average irritation score for these two cleansing products. The results of this study indicate that a high baseline TEWL value may be predictive of a high susceptibility to soap irritation as measured by the chamber test. Le role des pertes en eau transepidermique pour mesurer et prevoir l'irritation due aux tensio‐actifs
Transparent oil‐water gels
Authors: PROVOST C. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe present article reviews both the cosmetic and the pharmaceutical literature concerning transparent oil‐water gels. We propose the term ‘transparent oil‐water gel’ for semisolid systems that consist mainly of water, oil and an emulsifying agent or agents and that are characterized by a jelly‐like consistency, transparency, homogeneity, optical isotropy, thermodynamic stability, and the occurrence of a ‘ring’ or resonance when a containerful is tapped. The literature reflects a rather remarkable degree of confusion, not only with regard to terminology, but also with regard to the basic concept of the formation of transparent oil‐water gels. After a brief discussion justifying our selection of the term, the advantages specifically attributed to these gels are summarized, and the raw materials used in their formation as well as factors affecting their formulation are described. Finally, their applications as cosmetic and as pharmaceutical vehicles are reviewed.
Hand cleansing and skin condition. A comparison of conventional soap washing and the use of alcohol‐impregnated paper cloths
Authors: PROTTEY C. , PRYCE N. G. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisBy means of a controlled hand‐cleansing trial on normal volunteers with no observable skin problems, we have compared the action of a high frequency of washing the hands with soap and water with the use of alcohol‐impregnated paper towels, using visual assessment of hand dryness by a trained operator as the criterion of skin condition. High frequency of soap‐and‐water washing (10 times daily) elicits a significantly higher level of hand dryness than a frequency of 1–2 times daily. This effect, although transient, indicates a gradual build‐up of a higher prevailing level of hand dryness with sustained higher frequency washing. Use of the alcohol‐impregnated towels even at this higher frequency of 10 times per day does not elicit the observed level of hand dryness seen with soap washing. Le lavage des mains et de la peau. Une comparaison entre le lavage traditionnel des mains avec du savon et I'usage de serviettes imprégnées d'alcool L'action d'un nombre répété de lavages des mains utilisant du savon et de I'eau comparée à l'utilisation de serviettes imprégnées d'alcool. A étéétudiée sur des volontaires ne présentant pas de problèmes particuliers de peau, I'examen de la peau et en particulier de son déssèchement étant effectué par un spécialiste forméà cet effet.Un usage répété de savon et d'eau (10 lavages quotidiens) provoque un déssèchement de la peau significativement plus élevé qu'une fréquence de un à deux lavages par jour. Cet effet, bien que temporaire, indique une accumulation graduelle d'un niveau élevé de déssèchement de la peau liée à une fréquence élevée et soutenue de lavages. L'utilisation de serviettes imprégnées d'alcool měme à cette fréquence d'utilisation de 10 usages quotidiens, ne provoque pas un désséchement des mains au niveau observé lors des lavages avec eau et savon.
Microbial degradation of cellulose polymers used in cosmetics and toiletries
Authors: HARRISON L. A. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisCellulose polymers which are commonly found in cosmetics can act as potential targets for microbial attack and sometimes support extensive growth under suitable conditions. As a result, cellulosic substances can be converted from a stiff gel into a running liquid, thereby rendering the cosmetic unfit for use.To provide an understanding of the biodeterioration of cellulose in cosmetics, this paper reviews the structure of cellulose, mechanism of enzyme degradation and effects of structural properties of cellulose on the rate of hydrolysis. At least three different types of enzymes (exo‐β‐1, 4‐glucanase, endo‐β‐1,4‐glucanase and β‐glucosidase) are involved in the degradation of crystalline cellulose. Enzyme production by three fungi belonging to the genera Aspergillus, Fusarium and Penicillium is described. Dégradation microbienne des polymers de cellulose utilisés dans les produits cosmétiques et de toilette
Contributions to the chemistry of human hair. 1. Analyses of cystine, cysteine and cystine oxides in untreated human hair
Authors: HILTERHAUS‐BONG SABINE , ZAHN HELMUT 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisAmino acid analysis, photometry and polarography were selected as analytical methods for the determination of thiol and disulphide groups in untreated human hair and the results are discussed. The pre‐treatments necessary for the different analytical methods, e.g., hydrolysis, to some extent already induce chemical changes of the cysteine and cystine derivatives leading to method‐dependent differences in the results. In many cases the partial oxidation products of cystine are supposed to be responsible for this effect. Electron Spectroscopy for Chemical Analysis (ESCA), as an analytical method for the determination of the cystine oxides, was found to be inapplicable due to insufficient resolution and sensitivity, whereas by the use of Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) Spectroscopy the sulphur‐oxygen vibrations could be analysed and cystine monoxide and cystine dioxide were detected.
Study of the optical properties of human hair
Authors: GUIOLET A. , GARSON J. C. , LEVECQUE J. L. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe optical properties of human hair were studied by photogoniometry. Starting from an optical model of hair, we developed a computerized method of decomposition of the goniophotometric curve. From our analysis we obtained structural parameters of the hair surface, average scale angle and cosmetic parameters like lustre and pigmentation. This method gave us new results in the following areas:— the effects of bleaching on scale and internally reflected light;— the study, from root to tip, of surface damage and hair pigmentation;— the effects of stretching the hair on scale angle and lustre;— the effects of sebum and dust on hair lustre.
The spectral stability of several sunscreening agents on stratum corneum sheets
Authors: KAMMEYER A. , WESTERHOF W. , BOLHUIS P. A. , RIS A. J. , HISCHE E. A. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisFilm layers of seventeen commercially available sunscreen products and sixteen active ingredients on stratum corneum sheets were spectrophotometrically monitored before and after simulated solar irradiation. Fixed irradiation doses were given within the daily terrestrial limits. From the changes in the absorption spectra after irradiation the spectral stability was determined. The spectral stability reflects the photochemical stability and the assay quickly provides an insight in the sunscreen's stability towards (solar) radiation in situ. Good to excellent spectral stability was observed for the benzophenones, paraaminobenzoic acid and its esters, homomenthylsalicylate, guanine, 2‐phenylbenzimidazol‐5‐sulphonic acid (potassium salt) and guiazulene. Moderate spectral stability was observed in case of the cinnamates and 3‐[4‐methylbenzylidene] camphor.Poor spectral stability was exhibited by phenylsalicylate and 4‐isopropyldibenzoylmethane. Among the commercial products good to poor spectral stability was established.We recommend the performance of this assay on every sunscreen agent or cosmetic formulation which may be exposed to the sun or any other ultra‐violet/visible radiation source.
Influence of microemulsion structure on cystine reactivity with keratin fibres
Authors: SOLANS C. , PARRA J. L. , ERRA P. , AZEMAR N. , CLAUSSE M. , TOURAUD D. 
Published: May 2007

SummaryThe activity of thioglycolic acid, incorporated in a microemulsion, towards cystine residues present in keratin proteins has been investigated.In an attempt to relate the structural state of the microemulsions to cystine reactivity, an appropriate model system showing a large microemulsion domain with diverse structures was chosen.The realm of preferentially hydrocarbon‐continuous microemulsion‐type media was found to induce the highest activity.
Physical changes in hydrated skin
Authors: VAN DER MERWE ERNA , ACKERMANN CHRISITA 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA phenomenon of increased permeation as a function of time in the percutaneous absorption of urea and water led to this in vitro study with skin of hairless mice in a closed diffusion cell system. The Latin square method was used to assess the effect of four variables, namely temperature, time of hydration, concentration of urea and stirring of the donor‐and receiver‐cell phases on the physical structure of the skin and the permeability coefficients of urea and water. The scanning electron microscope and the transmission electron microscope were used to assess the physical changes in skin structure.Temperature and time of hydration, but not the concentration of urea or the stirring of the donor‐ and receiver‐cell phases, affected the permeability of the skin to urea and water. The scanning electron microscope and transmission electron microscope micrographs confirmed these results.
Adverse effects of cosmetics and toiletries: a retrospective study in the general population
Authors: de GROOT A. C. , NATER J. P. , van der LENDER R. , RIJCKEN B. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisOf 1609 individuals who were interviewed and asked whether they had experienced adverse reactions to cosmetics or toiletry products in the preceding 5 years, 196 (12.2%) claimed to have experienced some such reaction.Females (n= 124) mostly attributed their complaints to soap (41%), facial creams (33%), deodorant (25%), shampoo (16%) and eye shadow (11%). Men (n= 72) complained about adverse effects from soap (49%), aftershave (22%), deodorant (19%) and shower foam (12%). Both in women and in men, most reactions were localized on the face (60% resp. 33%), followed by the hands (19% resp. 21%) and the axillae (18% resp. 14%). The majority of patients could solve the problem by stopping the use of the suspected product and purchasing a different brand. Nevertheless, medical consultation was sought by more than 30% of all patients.Presumably, the majority of all adverse effects were caused by irritation; contact allergic reactions are infrequent.
Perfume interactions with sodium dodecyl sulphate solutions
Authors: BEHAN J. M. , PERRING K. D. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisVapour phase concentrations of aroma chemicals above a model shampoo system containing sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS) have been measured using headspace gc methodology.It was shown that, to a first approximation, headspace concentrations were directly related to the phase volumes ratio (water/SDS), and that this could be rationalized in terms of simple partitioning. The headspace behaviour of the same materials dissolved in water and in diethyl phthalate was also investigated with a view to understanding the effect of the medium on the perfume ‘profile’. The octanol/water partition coefficient was identified as a potentially useful parameter in this connection.Since the phase structures of the surfactant systems were not known, the results for all the materials were expressed in terms of ‘apparent activity coefficients’, calculated from headspace concentrations and mole fractions. It was found that, to a first approximation, the headspace concentration of benzyl acetate above these surfactant systems was directly proportional to the phase volumes ratio (water/SDS), and that this could be rationalized in terms of a simple partition model. It was clear, however, that a more sophisticated model would require data on the surfactant/perfume component interaction in the absence of water—such data could be more conveniently obtained using liquid analogues of SDS.
Investigation des mécanismes de liaison impliqués dans la cohésion des compacts a usage cosmétique
Authors: KOMPAORÉ FRANCIS , PONCHEL GILLES , BOELLE ANNE , DUCHĚNE DOMINIQUE 
Published: May 2007

RésuméLa présence d'un pourcentage élevé de particules lamellaires dans les compacts à usage cosmétique les rend difficiles à compacter. La cohésion des particules de poudre n'est rendue possible que par la présence d'un liant de caractère lipophile. La détermination du bilan énergétique de compression ainsi que des mesures de dureté par indentation et de résistance mécanique des compacts mettent en évidence l'importance des propriétés rhéologiques et aussi du pourcentage auquel il est employé pour l'obtention de caractéristiques mécaniques optimales. Il est montré que les compacts cosmétiques de ce type sont un exemple d'un système de poudre humide compactée, différent en celà de ceux rencontrés dans d'autres branches de l'industrie (pharmacie, metallurgie, céramique…). Enfin, ces résultats permettent de conclure qu'une amélioration significative de la formulation passe par une bonne connaissance des propriétés rhéologiques du liant.
Approche osmotique de l'hydratation du stratum corneum
Authors: FORESTIER J. P. 
Published: May 2007

RésuméAfin de reprendre l'hypothèse selon laquelle l'absorption de l'eau par le stratum corneum est un phénomène osmotique et afin de d'effectuer des études, in vitro, de la biophysique de la diffusion de l'eau par osmose, nous avons mis au point un Modèle Osmotique de Cornéocyte (MOC), qui est constitué par de la kératine isolée par une membrane semi‐perméable.Immeré dans de l'eau, le MOC voit sa masse augmenter. En effet, bien qu'insoluble, la kératine est hydrophile et en accord avec le Deuxième principe de la thermodynamique, elle fait diffuser par osmose, de l'eau vers l'intérieur du MOC.A saturation, l'eau absorbée représente 13 fois la masse de kératine.La diffusion s'effectue selon une cinétique classique: la masse de l'eau qui pénètre est proportionelle à la racine carrée du temps.Les éléments constitutifs du Facteur Naturel d'Hydratation comme l'urée, l'acide lactique, l'acide pyrrolidone carboxylique, accroissent la vitesse de diffusion et la quantité totale d'eau absorbée. Un humectant comme la glycérine produit un effet semblable. L'urée est le composé qui donne les meilleures performances.L'accroissement de la vitesse de diffusion par osmose dans le MOC en présence de composés hydratants peut s'interpréter comme un accroissement de l'hydrophilie de la kératine induite par ces composés.Le MOC semble pouvoir permettre, outre une étude théorique sur le phénomène osmotique dans le stratum corneum, des études préliminaires in vitro des produits hydratants hydrosolubles utilisables en cosmétologie.
Photostability assessment of sunscreens. Benzylidene camphor and dibenzoylmethane derivatives
Authors: DEFLANDRE A. , LANG G. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA rapid method has been developed in order to compare the photostability of several sunscreen agents incorporated in the same type of emulsion. Thin films of the different preparations were spread on quartz plates and irradiated with a solar simulator. Differences in energy distribution according to wavelengths observed with solar simulator and sun radiation were taken into account. A kinetic study of absorption properties was carried out under solar simulator irradiation. A simple calculation gave the results which would be obtained under sunlight.This technique differentiated the reversible transformations of photoisomerizable compounds from an irreversible disappearance which resulted in a significant loss of protective power.Applied to benzylidene camphor derivatives, this technique showed the excellent photostability of these sunscreen agents.
Silicones: use of substantive properties on skin and hair
Authors: DISAPIO AL , FRIDD PETRINA 
Published: May 2007

SummarySilicones have been incorporated in personal care products since the 1950s. Initially used in skin care products, and more recently in hair care applications, silicones are recognized for their lubricating properties and for the characteristic soft smooth feel they impart. With recent advances in silicone technology, these fluids can also provide substantivity and durability.Resinous silicones such as trimethylsiloxysilicate act as effective substantivity additives when combined with dimethyl silicone in skin care formulations. In tests evaluating the number of wash cycles required to penetrate a silicone barrier, resistance to removal increases markedly as the proportion of resinous silicone to dimethyl silicone is increased. This improvement is related directly to decreased solubility of the resin.