bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Relation of Warp Sizing to Loom Efficiency
Authors: Yelland William E. 
Published: March 2008

In a test covering a period of eight weeks the average loom efficiency of a group of looms was 90.4%. A careful analysis of the data collected during this test showed that the largest single cause of warp breaks was balling-up in back of the reed, which accounted for 23.1% of the warp stops or 10.1% of the total loom stops. If to this are added the number of other breaks occurring at the reed, i.e., those not due to balling-up, and the number of breaks due to frayed yarn, we have all the stops which can be con sidered as being caused by size failure. The results of this test showed that 37.59% of the warp stops, or 16.39% of the total loom stops, could be attributed in this way to size failure. Moreover, supplementary tests showed that the time required to repair a warp break was approximately 2.19 times as long as that required for a filling break. So the failure of the warp size is an appreciable factor in the loss of loom efficiency even when the sizing is considered satisfactory by the weave room. Next to size failure, knots were the most important source of warp stops. They accounted for 14.75% of the total loom stops. Filling stops formed a large percentage: 56.37% of the total loom stops. Although this is an important cause of loss in weav ing efficiency it is not as large as it might first appear to be, because of the fact that the average filling break takes less than one-half of the time required for repairing a warp break.
Mechanics of Elastic Performance of Textile Materials
Authors: Hamburger Walter J. 
Published: March 2008

The factors which affect the textile quality usually known as resilience are discussed, and a normalized co efficient is derived which quantitatively expresses the degree of resilience of textile fibers. Use of the term "elastic performance," rather than "resilience," is sug gested. The dependence of elastic performance upon the fundamental load-deformation properties of textile ma terials is considered and it is demonstrated that the elastic performance coefficient reflects the effect of immediate-elastic, primary-creep, and secondary-creep deflections. The coefficient is indicated to be applicable to all types of loading: tension, compression, bending, torsion, etc. All that is required for its calculation is a load-deforma tion diagram under uniform, controlled cyclical loading and unloading. Data are presented upon the tensional elastic per formance of two different materials—continuous filament acetate rayon and fully drawn nylon—under various magnitudes of tension loading. Variations in elastic performance with yarn geometry—that is, twist—are given for the acetate rayon yarn. The evaluation of elastic performance under com pression and other types of loading will be presented in a future paper.
Water Sorption and the Poly-Phase Structure of Cellulose Fibers
Authors: Howsmon John A. 
Published: March 2008

Many of the methods used to study the fine structure of cellulose are tedious and not suitable for routine use. In the present work, an equilibrium moisture regain method which can be carried out on a large scale with a high degree of accuracy has been developed. The method is illustrated by a wide variety of cellulose materials covering a wide range of moisture sorption capacity. The terms "accessibility" and "crystallinity" are discussed and possible errors arising from assumed equivalence of these terms are pointed out. A preliminary attempt to evaluate both accessibility and crystallinity of cellulose from moisture regain data has been made. This evaluation results in a proposed revision of the scale of reported crystallinities of various types of cellulose. The hydrolysis method for studying cellulose accessibility has been compared with moisture regain and x-ray diffraction methods. It is proposed that recrystallization of cellulose during hydrolysis is a determining factor in this method and, therefore, that published data obtained from hydrolytic studies should be reconsidered.
Submicroscopic Structure of Cellulose from Nitrogen-Sorption Measurements
Authors: Hunt Charles M. , Blaine Raymond L. , Rowen John W. 
Published: March 2008

When cotton linters were soaked in cold 10% sodium hydroxide, washed and neutralized, transferred successively to methyl alcohol and benzene, and carefully dried at reduced pressure, a surface area as great as 71.3 sq. m. per g. was obtained by the Brunauer-Emmett-Teller tech nique. Previously obtained areas for untreated cotton were all less than 1 sq. m. per g. Linters carried through the above steps after soaking in water instead of in alkali had areas as great as 47.3 sq. m. per g. When the alkali-treated sample was conditioned in water vapor to a 3.3% gain in weight, the surface decreased to 31.6 sq. m. per g.; further conditioning to an 11.0% gain in weight decreased the surface to 2.1 sq. m. per g. The isotherms of the treated samples showed strong hysteresis, while the isotherms of untreated cotton showed little or no hysteresis. Calculations of pore-size distribution by the method of Wheeler and Shull indicated that these materials have rather narrow distribution ranges, the alkali-treated material having a maximum at a pore radius of about 20 Å. and the water-soaked material a maximum at about 16 Å.
Correlation Studies of Accelerated and Natural Weathering Tests of Protectively Finished Cotton Duck
Authors: Fynn P.J. , Daly Catherine N. , Fleming Constance M. , Dean J.D. 
Published: March 2008

Artificial and natural weather exposure tests were made with unfinished and with protectively finished cotton duck samples. The treating agents employed were chiefly mineral pigments, film-forming resins, and vat dyes, alone and in combinations. The finishes were ranked in order of excellence on the basis of amounts of original strength retained by individual samples in both types of exposure. The results of the natural and accelerated tests were compared and then correlated by a statistical method and by a simple computation of agreement among groups of good, intermediate, and poor performance. Although statistical interpretation of the data indicated a positive corre lation between the 2 types of tests, the relationship was not sufficiently constant to justify reliance on the accelerated techniques employed in predicting the behavior of finished cotton textiles in outdoor service conditions.
Modification of Wool by the Application of Linear Synthetic Polyamides
Authors: Jackson D.L.C. 
Published: March 2008

The effect of surface deposits of N-hydroxymethyl polyhexamethylene adipamide on the felting shrinkage of wool has been determined. These polymers resemble the N-methoxymethyl poly amides in that the polymer itself is not particularly effective in preventing felting shrinkage of wool, but when the substituted polymer is applied to wool fabric and then converted to the un substituted polyamide on the fabric, its effectiveness in reducing felting shrinkage is very much increased. A deposit of approximately 3% by weight of polymer on the fabric has been found to eliminate entirely felting shrinkage of the fabric under the test conditions. The optimum degree of sub stitution of the polyamide for production of non-feltability is similar to that found for the N- methoxymethyl derivatives— vi., between 20% and 25% -NH groups substituted. The N-hydroxymethyl polyamides can be converted to the unsubstituted polymers either by hydrolysis—e.g., with acids—or by heating in air.
Microscopical Observations on the Contents of the Cotton Fiber Lumen
Authors: Catlett Mamie S. , Giuffria Ruth , Moore Anna T. , Rollins Mary L. 
Published: March 2008

A method is described for isolating the lumen contents of the cotton fiber by digestion of the cellulose in chilled 72% sulfuric acid. Microscopical observations on the isolated "lumens" as well as the lumen in the whole fiber are reported. The isolated lumens appeared tubular in shape, and electron micrographs of thin sheets of the membrane material showed an unoriented, granular structure. The lumen residue isolated by sulfuric acid was found to be completely hydrolyzed by 1% sodium hydroxide, but only partly hydrolyzed in dilute mineral acid. Amino acid determination by paper chromatography disclosed no free amino acids in the lumen material; but in an acid- hydrolyzed sample, glutamic and aspartic acids, valine, alanine, and probably serine and arginine were found, in addition to several unidentified amino acids.
Analysis of Staple Fiber Mixtures
Authors: Fisher D.C. , Roberts E.D. 
Published: March 2008

Methods were developed for the qualitative and quantitative analyses of staple fiber blends con taining acetate, dynel, wool, nylon, viscose rayon, cotton, Orlon acrylic fiber, and Dacron poly ester fiber in any combination. The qualitative analysis involves determination of density and microscopic appearance; the quantitative analysis employs selective solvents. The methods presented in this paper are suitable for the analysis of most blends in use at the present time. The nature of the methods presented is such as to permit extension by suitable modification for use in the detection and determination of other fibers also.
Viscometric Studies of Cellulose in Cotton in Relation to Mechanical Processing
Authors: Conrad Carl M. , Rusca Ralph A. 
Published: March 2008

A study was undertaken at the Southern Regional Research Laboratory to determine whether or not the mechanical processing of cotton fibers into yarn causes any chemical degradation to the cellulose. The study seemed timely in view of a report [22] indicating that the mechanical processing of cotton into yarn by conventional textile machinery causes as much as 30% average reduction in intrinsic viscosity. Studies were made on four sets of samples which had been treated as follows: ( 1) powdered in a Wiley mill; (2) processed a number of times through a new type of textile cotton opener developed at the Southern Regional Research Laboratory; (3) mechanically processed in essen tially the same manner as in the study referred to above; and (4) portions of the same samples used by Krieble and Whitwell [22]. The viscosity measurements determined by the methods employed at the Southern Regional Research Laboratory failed to show any demonstrable chemical damage to the cellulose which could be associated with processing. When the new method described by Krieble and Whitwell was applied to the viscosity data, the linear plots depended upon for extrapolation could not be obtained. It was concluded that the damage previously reported to have been found is not fully supported by a statistical treatment of the data; also, that chemical damage is not produced in ordinary cotton textile processing to any appreciable extent, although it might conceivably become notice able in excessively processed cotton. Some suggestions are given to explain the failure to secure linear plots by the suggested new method.
Improvement of Luster of Cotton
Authors: Fourt Lyman , Rutherford Marjorie B. 
Published: March 2008

One of the means of increasing luster, which is available to designers working in any fiber, is variation of weaving pattern or construction. It is examined here for comparison with other means of improvement which are more specifically applicable to cotton. The increase in luster in going from plain weave to a 4/1 float is considerable; a 4/1 float is significantly higher in luster than a 3/1 float, all at constant texture, with the same yarns. Sheerness obtained either by finer yarns or decreased texture also increases luster. How ever, if cover is kept constant by using more of the finer yarns, the two tendencies oppose each other, reducing the change of luster.
The Improvement of Luster of Cotton
Authors: Fourt Lyman , Elliott H.J. 
Published: March 2008

The range of increase of luster from the application of thermosetting resins in a cotton twill is found to be as large as that produced by mercerization and to be generally similar in ap pearance. Further increases in luster, as measured by contrast ratio, can be obtained by high pressure embossing, although the appearance of the embossed areas is different and can be recognized as flattened. Various types of urea formaldehyde and melamine formaldehyde resins are very similar in their effects on the luster of cloth, and variations in mechanical smoothing similar to tentering or light calendering have more influence on luster than the type of resin. The resins do differ, however, in their effect on wrinkle recovery, stiffness, and tensile and tear strength. Thus it appears that the chief effect of thermosetting resins on luster of fabrics is indirect, through their durable control of fabric structure. The direct effect of the resins on luster, as shown by tests on yarns, is to decrease the luster of mercerized cotton and only slightly to in crease the luster of nonmercerized cotton.
Properties of Apparel Wools
Authors: Burte Harris M. 
Published: March 2008

Mechanical properties derived from the force-extension curve, and including tensile recovery, have been measured for single strands of steamed worsted yarn throughout their aging at 65% R.H. and 70°F. None of these properties appears to change significantly throughout an aging period of several months. Measurements on single strands of unsteamed yarn which are permitted to untwist prior to test indicate a progressive change in physical properties with time of aging. This is caused by a slow setting-in of the twist similar to that provided rapidly by a steaming treatment.
Cotton Quality and Fiber Properties
Authors: Virgin W.P. , Wakeham Helmut 
Published: March 2008

The purpose of this research was to evaluate the use of single-fiber testing methods for the determination of cotton fiber properties and for the prediction of yarn quality. Samples of unprocessed cotton, finisher drawing sliver, and 36's carded yarn were ob tained for 21 domestic cotton varieties representing extremes in length, fineness, and strength. Single fibers from all three processing stations were tested for their fineness and mechanical properties: crimp, Hookean slope, breaking load, elongation, elastic modulus, breaking stress, and energy to rupture. Ranges for each of these properties were established. The results were compared with the mechanical properties of the fiber bundles, slivers, and yarns. Correlation studies of the results show that all of the mechanical properties measured on fibers are related to fiber fineness and, among the varieties, to fiber length. Bundle strengths and elongations at clamp spacings greater than 1.5 mm. relate well to fiber breaking strengths and elongations. Sliver force-extension slope is dependent on fiber fineness and fiber elastic modulus. Yarn strength depends strongly on fiber length, fine ness, and elastic modulus, and only weakly on fiber strength; yarn elongation depends greatly on fiber elongation and elastic modulus. These observations suggest that yarn strength and elongation are related to the single fiber properties and can be predicted from them fully as well as from bulk measurements of fineness and bundle strength data. They also indicate that elastic modulus is an im portant parameter for predicting fiber assembly behavior.
Performance Characteristics of Synthetic Fibers, Wool, Viscose, and Blended Fibers in Axminster Carpets
Authors: Schappel J.W. 
Published: March 2008

The soiling and crushing characteristics of nylon, Dacron,2 Orlon,3 Saran, Dynel, acetate, wool, and smooth viscose, as well as the 50/50 blends of the synthetics and wool with smooth viscose were studied in Axminster carpets. Soiling properties are shown to be related to the fiber surface smoothness and avail able surface area, and the reflective properties of the fiber. The soiling properties of fibers in blends are not influenced by the companion fibers of the blends. Electrostatic effects are unrelated to the soiling properties of carpet fibers. Smooth viscose has the highest soil resistance of all the fibers appraised and con tributes this property to carpets consisting of blends of smooth viscose and synthetics. Crush recovery characteristics of the synthetics are good with nylon and Orlon per forming better than wool. Blends of the synthetics and smooth viscose show poorer crush recovery than the average crush properties of the respective fibers. Pile density is a variable controlling crush properties of carpets and varies in rela tion to the fiber's specific gravity. Differences in pile density of carpets as a result of differences in specific gravities of fibers are insufficient to materially shift the crush re sistant rankings of the fibers.
The Effect of Laundering, Mercerizing, and Simulated Vat Dyeing on the Properties of Partially Cyanoethylated Cotton
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Markezich Anthony R. , Moore Harry B. , Reid J. David 
Published: March 2008

The effect of laundering, mercerizing, and simulated vat dyeing on the properties of partially cyanoethylated cotton was investigated. Cotton sheeting cyanoethylated to various nitrogen contents, from 2.2 to 6.4%, was subjected to laundering, mercerizing, or simulated vat dyeing. The samples were then analyzed for thread count, weight, and thickness and tested for breaking strength, elongation, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, air permeability, stiffness, moisture regain, heat resistance, and rot resistance. In addition, wrinkle recovery of the partially cyanoethylated and untreated cloth was determined. Results of the study indicate that neither laundering, mercerizing, nor simulated vat dyeing seriously affects the usual textile properties of partially cyanoethylated cotton. The rot resistance and heat resistance of samples of more than 4% nitrogen content were not greatly impaired by these treatments; however, a sample of 3.2% N was not rot- resistant after these subsequent treatments.
Spindle Drafting of Woolen Slubbings
Authors: Angus J. , Martindale J.G. 
Published: March 2008

An apparatus incorporating a single mule spindle was designed to draft woolen slub bings under a variety of conditions of twist and speed, and to measure the drafting forces generated. Experiments were done on this apparatus and on the mule itself. The way in which drafting force is generated was investigated for Cheviot and Saxony slubbings with varying speed, count, and twist. The way in which the thread irregularity changed during drafting was investigated simultaneously. It was found that force first increased with extension and then decreased. During this second stage of decreasing force, evidence was sometimes found of the spasmodic slipping and sticking of fibers. Levelness of thread improved while drafting force was increasing, but deteri orated rapidly as the force declined. This indicates that optimum draft might be deter mined by force measurements. The angle of inclination of the spindle was also found to affect the magnitude of the drafting force. A two-phase hypothesis of fiber behavior has been advanced, in which it is suggested that fiber response during the first phase consists mainly of straightening and stretching. This is superseded by a second phase which is characterized by fiber slippage, often of a violent nature. It is suggested not only that this does provide a new standpoint from which the process of spindle drafting can be considered, but also that development of the experi mental technique might provide ready means of investigating the importance of various fiber properties, and their modification, in the spinning process.
Density Changes in Cellulose Treated With Urea-Formaldehyde Resins
Authors: Steele Richard , Schiwall Raymond P. 
Published: March 2008

Density changes produced in cotton and rayon fabrics by treatment with four thermo setting resin precondensates have been determined in density gradient columns. With the assumption that the density of resin cured in vitro corresponds to its density in the fiber, the results indicate that the predominant effect is fiber swelling, with very little resin being deposited in void spaces not previously accessible to the solvent mixture in the gradient column. Scouring the treated fabric to remove reaction residues lowers the density, indicating that the fiber structure does not collapse, presumably because it is stabilized by the reacted resin. The effect of resin concentration on moisture regain was also determined with these samples. The results are consistent with the changes in mechanical properties observed for cross-linking and non-cross-linking resins on cotton and rayon.
Fatigue in Textile Fibers
Authors: Lyons W. James 
Published: March 2008

A single-station machine on which a fiber can be fatigued in a localized region, by being axially rotated in a bent configuration, has been built. The test fiber, on either side of the bend, is mounted on shafts at 90° to each other, driven at the same rotary speed. Speeds up to 550 rpm are attainable. Nylon 66 and nylon 6 monofils in a number of diameters from 8 to 28 mils have been fatigued in biaxial rotation on this machine, in a fourfold range of rotary velocities and for periods of 15, 30, and 45 min. They were then tested for residual breaking tenacity and extension. A few fibers have been fatigued for other periods of time, or to rupture, for microscopic examination of the fatigued region. In most samples the rupture properties decrease with increasing rotary velocity, for any given fatiguing period. The rate of this decrease tends to be lower in the range of higher velocities. The shapes of the breaking-extension curves are largely determined by those of the breaking-tenacity curves, reflecting the near-linearity of the tenacity- extension relationship. The monofils of smaller diameter, especially those of nylon 6, are less affected by the increase in rotary velocity. In most of the samples, the residual breaking tenacity appears to be largely determined by the total number of revolutions sustained by the specimen, with no consistent influence of rotary velocity on the results. Monofils of the higher draw ratios and those that had been heat-set show a much sharper decline in residual properties with increasing rotary velocity than do the non- heat-set samples of lower draw ratio. However, the breaking tenacities of the heat-set samples retain their relatively higher positions after fatiguing under most conditions. Representative photomicrographs of monofils fatigued at various velocities and for different periods short of rupture show progressive development of diagonal fissures in the fatigued regions, especially in the nylon 66, and of a bulbous expansion in the nylon 6 specimens. Photomicrographs of the broken ends of monofils fatigued to rupture indi cate that the breakage in nylon 6 occurs across planes coinciding with the diagonal fissures. In nylon 66 the breakage appears to occur in a roughly transverse plane.
Mechanics of Elastic Performance of Textile Materials
Authors: Freeston W. Denney , Platt Milton M. , Schoppee Meredith M. 
Published: March 2008

A theoretical analysis of the load-elongation behavior of idealized plain-weave fabrics subjected to biaxial stresses is presented. Fabric strains resulting from both crimp interchange and yarn extension are considered. The analytical expressions de rived have been solved with the aid of a digital computer for both linearly elastic and elasto-plastic materials. Time effects, although not explicitly included, are discussed. Generalized plots of the results are presented for the two extremes of initial fabric structure: (1) equal crimp distribution in both sets of yarns and (2) one set of yarns noncrimped (straight). The predicted and measured response of model fabrics are compared.