bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Surface active molecules: preparation and properties of long chain nα‐acyl‐l‐α‐amino‐ω‐guanidine alkyl acid derivatives
Authors: INFANTE R. , DOMINGUEZ J. GARCIA , ERRA P. , JULIA R. , PRATS M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA new route for the synthesis of long chain Nα‐acyl‐l‐α‐amino‐ω‐guamdine alkyl acid derivatives, with cationic or amphoteric character has been established. The general formula of these compounds is shown below.A physico‐chemical and antimicrobial study of these products as a function of the alkyl ester or sodium salt (R), the straight chain length of the fatty acid residue (x) and the number of carbons between the ω‐guanidine and ω‐carboxyl group (n) has been investigated.The water solubility, surface tension, critical micelle concentration (c.m.c.) and minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) against Gram‐positive and Gram‐negative bacteria (including Pseudomonas) has been determined.Dicyclohexylcarbodiimide has been used to condense fatty acids and α‐amino‐ω‐guanidine alkyl acids. In these conditions protection of the ω‐guanidine group is not necessary. The main characteristic of this synthetic procedure is the use of very mild experimental conditions (temperature, pH) to form the amide linkage which leads to pure optical compounds in high yield in the absence of electrolytes.The results show that some structural modifications, particularly the protection of the carboxyl group, promote variations of the surfactant and antimicrobial properties. Only those molecules with the blocked carboxyl group (cationic molecules, where R = Me, Et or Pr) showed a good surfactant and antimicrobial activity. When the carboxyl group was unprotected (amphoteric molecules, where R = Na+) the resulting compounds were inactive.
Histamine determination in tears as an index of safety in use of cosmetic products
Authors: BETTERO A. , ANGI M. R. , GALIANO F. , BENASSI C. A. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisTo assess ocular irritancy caused by chemical and cosmetic products a reliable method based on evaluation of histamine (Hm) in tears is presented. Hm is measured at picomole levels by HPLC and fluorimetric detection after fluorescamine‐HM derivatization. In order to avoid any uncontrolled irritation and stimulation of the conjunctiva during sample collection, a procedure of conjunctiva lavage was developed. A balanced salt solution (50 μl) containing a known amount of Hm‐fluorophore as reference standard is instilled in the conjunctiva fornix. After a few seconds 20 μl of tear fluid is collected: 10 μl are immediately analysed and 10 μl after derivatization reaction. In this way it is possible to evaluate tear dilution and to assess Hm content in less than 10 minutes.In a group of 20 normal subjects Hm has been determined in comparison with that of two volunteers after topical application of 50 μ of 0.2% and 0.4% sodium lauryl sulphate solution. A contact of 30 seconds of the cosmetic ingredient caused an immediate dose‐dependent Hm release through a direct cytotoxic damage of cell membranes due to the surfactant action.Évaluation de l'irritation occulaire due aux cosmétiques par la détermination de l'histamine lacrimale
Antibacterial properties of soap containing some fatty acid esters
Authors: PANDEY N. K. , NATRAJ C. V. , KALLE G. P. , NAMBUDIRY M. E. N. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisChemical microbial inhibitors compatible with formulations of soaps and deodorant perfumes are more effective if they are substantive to the skin. However, highly effective inhibitors are toxic and their substantivity on skin may accentuate the toxicity. Natural compounds such as short to medium chain fatty acids and their derivatives, which are known to be germicidal, offer a viable alternative to chemical inhibitors. We report here the synthesis of sodium 2‐lauroyloxy propionate and an in vivo method to test its substantivity on skin following its incorporation in soaps. Among several compounds tested, sodium 2‐lauroyloxy propionate was found to be highly substantive in soap formulation.Propriétés antibactériennes d'un savon contenant des esters d'acides gras
Physical attractiveness, cosmetic use and self‐perception in the elderly
Authors: Graham Jean Ann , Kligman Albert M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe relationships between physical attractiveness, cosmetic practices and self‐perception were examined in elderly females. Sixteen individuals of high and 16 of low attractiveness were evaluated with regard to ‘how they saw themselves’in terms of their behaviour, attitude, appearance, etc., and some aspects of their utilization of cosmetics.The attractive evaluated themselves more highly than the unattractive on an overall measure of self‐perception, and they rated themselves more highly on a number of important individual dimensions of self‐perception: they perceived themselves as being healthier, with a greater feeling of wellbeing, as having a more positive outlook on life; as being more cheerful/less depressed, and better adjusted; they registered greater satisfaction with their lives; were more socially engaged; and more realistic.Attractiveness did not appear to be correlated with the aspects of cosmetic practices examined. The physically attractive and unattractive did not differ significantly with respect to cosmetic usage (frequency and number of products), attitude towards cosmetics, history of cosmetic care, or difference between their cosmetic and basic attractiveness.Since our previous research1 on this subject sample has shown that the unattractive elderly benefit from cosmetic therapy more than the attractive ‐ not only in terms of appearance but psychologically ‐ it is suggested that explicit training in effective cosmetic usage as used in cosmetic therapy programmes could help to bridge the psychological gap between the handsome and unhandsome elderly and reduce discrimination against the unhandsome elderly.
Evaluation of the anti‐inflammatory activity of biolysat hafnia®, in vivo in man
Authors: DUBERTRET L. , LEBRETON C. 
Published: May 2007

Synopsis‘Biolysat Hafnia®', an active principle, whose anti‐inflammatory activity had been demonstrated in animals, also has anti‐inflammatory properties in vivo in human volunteers as shown by the technique of migration chambers after suction blisters.Évaluation de l'activité anti‐inflammatoire du Biolysat Hafnia®, en vivo chez l'homme
Preservative stability and preservative systems
Authors: TOLER J. C. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe stability of cosmetics must be examined from a chemical, physical and biological viewpoint. Biological stability is dependent on many factors including preservative effectiveness, preservative stability and the levels of initial and in‐use contamination.Bronopol, a highly active preservative with less than ideal stability in alkaline systems, may be usefully combined with more stable preservatives whose activity is generally lower at high pH. Some consequences of preservative decomposition are discussed.Mélange et stabilité d'agents conservateurs
Studies on the dermal toxicity of p‐phenylene diamine
Authors: VISWANATHAN P. N. , GUPTA V. , MISRA V. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisSingle dermal application of p‐phenylene diamine in guinea‐pigs caused pathomorphological lesions over a period of 24 h which later disappeared. Lipid peroxidation activity of skin homogenate showed significant inhibition, whereas superoxide dismutase was unaffected. Histamine content increased initially but showed drastic reduction during recovery. The significance of the data in the potential dermal toxicity of hair dyes is discussed.
Comparison of selection procedures for the formation of homogeneous groups in clinical tests of dental care agents
Authors: BILL E. , KLUEPPEL H.‐J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisDental trials of new dental care formulations are studied with regard to specific quality characteristics such as inhibition of plaque formation and reduction of gingival bleeding, and require homogeneous panels of test persons in which both systematic and random sources of experimental error are excluded. The homogeneous panels must be formed from an available pool of test persons (global panel) so that each panel as a subset presents the same dental features on average and can be compared statistically one with another. This is a necessary condition for a valid scientific conclusion to be obtained from comparative dental studies. This type of homogeneous group division of a global panel can clearly be based on other medical features.Four selection procedures for the formation of homogeneous panels from the global panel were compared quantitatively with regard to their efficiency and homogeneity of group division, namely:— randomization method;— block target method;— median pair method;— block median pair method.With the exception of the randomization method, which can be applied more generally, the other selection methods require a preliminary study of the available test persons with regard to their medical features.A comparison of the four selection procedures shows that the three other methods are more likely to provide more homogeneous panels than the randomization method.Comparaison des procedures de selection concernant la formation de groupes homogènes dans les tests cliniques des agents de soins dentaires
Substantivity of sunscreens: an appraisal of some quaternary ammonium sunscreens
Authors: SAETTONE M. F. , GIANNACCINI B. , MORGANTI C. , PERSI A. , CIPRIANI C. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisTwo series of quaternary ammonium UV‐B sunscreens, derived from salicylic acid (S) and from p‐methoxycinnamic acid (C), and containing N‐alkyl chains of different length (C2 to C16) were prepared and submitted to substantivity tests on animal (wool) keratin, and to microbiological tests. A direct correlation between substantivity and antimicrobial/antifungal activity was observed in all cases, the compounds bearing C12 alkyl chains displaying peak values. The C‐derivatives, when compared with the S‐derivatives, showed relatively higher substantivity and sunscreen index (SI) values, coupled with lower antibacterial activity. The substantivity‐microbiological activity correlations and the particular behaviour of the C12 derivatives are briefly discussed in the light of the existing literature data. On the basis of the experimental results, possible guidelines for the development of substantive and non‐antibacterial (and possibly, non‐irritant) quaternary ammonium sunscreens are indicated. La substantivité des filtres solaires
Location and nature of the epidermal permeability barrier
Authors: BOWSER P. A. , WHITE R. J. , NUGTEREN D. H. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe lowest region of human and pig stratum corneum has been isolated as an integral layer, referred to as the stratum compactum. This preparation is resistant to disruption by enzymes, 6M urea, Triton X‐100 and organic solvents. Our evidence suggests that penetration of materials to and through the corneum depend on the state of cohesion between cells, and of the organization of intercellular lipid species. As the cells move up towards the outside of the stratum corneum, the cohesive forces are reduced due to desmosome degradation and lipid modifications, with ultimate dyshesion and sloughing of individual cells.A number of linoleate‐rich lipids have been identified within human and pig epidermis which could contribute to the formation or maintenance of an epidermal permeability barrier. Our current belief is that the molecule key to barrier function is a hydroxylated linoleate derivative which appears to be formed in the stratum compactum region. Situation et nature de la barrière de perméabilitéépidermique
The epidermal engine: a commentary on epidermopoiesis, desquamation and their interrelationships
Authors: MARKS R. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe physiology and methods for study of epidermal cell production are reviewed. The importance of desquamation to any consideration of epidermal cell population size is stressed. Techniques for the measurement of the rate of desquamation are described with particular emphasis on quantitative dansyl chloride clearance time methods. Although the rates of cell production and cell loss must be related, the possibility of aberrations from a strict equivalence are discussed. Finally, the questions of the control of epidermopoiesis and the changes that occur with ageing are discussed. La fonction épidermique
Corrélation d'une technique d'analyse d'images et d'une méthode profiométrique dans l'étude des rides de la patte d'oie
Authors: SCHMIDT C. , CAMUS C. , CAUDIU H. , HER C. , SOUDANT E. , BAZIN R. 
Published: May 2007

RésuméIl existe plusieurs méthodes pour appréhender le relief cutané. La profilométrie consiste à enregistrer le contour relevéà l'aide d'un palpeur sur une empreinte de la peau en Araldite (positif). L'analyse d'images détecte les ombres portées par un éclairage rasant sur une empreinte souple de la peau (négatif). Ce travail s'attache à comparer les deux méthodes et à discuter l'utilité de chacune, à partir d'empreintes réalisées sur la patte d'oie de l'oeil.
A novel proposal for the assessment of sunscreen product efficacy against UVA
Authors: STOCKDALE M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe ideal characteristics are outlined for an assessment method for the protective properties of sunscreen products against UVA. Existing sun protection factors (SPFs) are reliant on largely UVB‐induced delayed erythema, which is inappropriate for the UVA. A novel instrumental method for assessing a protection index is detailed which is applicable to the UVA. The validation of the method relies on measurements in the UVB and comparison with conventional SPFs, since no reliable UVA protection index exists. The method uses UV transparent skin casts to which products can be applied. Throughput of appropriately filtered light, with and without applied product, is measured to generate a protection index. Comparison with SPFs confirms that the measurements are similar to those generated by in vivo methods, but that careful choice of the casting medium is essential.
Thixotropy
Authors: Cheng D. C.‐H. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThis paper summarizes the characteristics of thixotropic behaviour and gives examples of industrial materials that show this property. It reviews the physical and chemical bases of thixotropy and discusses the theoretical derivation of mode constitutive equations. Measurement techniques are described and some results are given. The paper concludes with a brief discussion of application of measurement results.
Routine patch testing with the preservative system Kathon CG
Authors: GROOT ANTON C. DE , BRUYNZEEL DERK P. , SCHROEFF JAN GERRIT VAN DER , BOS JAN D. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisOf 1620 patients routinely patch tested with Kathon CG 100 p.p.m. aqua for suspected allergic contact dermatitis, 81 (5.0%) had a positive reaction. Sixty‐two reactions (3.8%) were relevant for the dermatitis for which the patient consulted the dermatologist. Most patients were females who presented with dermatitis of the hands and/or face. Forty‐six per cent of the patients had become sensitized by using cosmetic products on healthy skin. The other 54% had pre‐existing dermatitis, especially atopic dermatitis and irritant dermatitis. Most reactions were caused by moisturizing creams.
Percutaneous absorption of p‐phenylene diamine during an actual hair dyeing procedure
Authors: GOETZ NOËL , LASSERRE PIERRE , BORÉ PIERRE , KALOPISSIS GRÉGOIRE 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisAn analytical method has been developed that allows the determination of p‐phenylene diamine derivatives in urinary samples collected from women after hair dyeing with commercial formulations. During an on‐line flash hydrolysis of the urine, a number of metabolites of p‐phenylene diamine were hydrolyzed to free p‐phenylene diamine, which was then determined using gas chromatography‐mass spectrometry. The excretion of metabolites of p‐phenylene diamine could be followed during 24 or 48 hours after the dye had been applied. Most of the p‐phenylene diamine cleaved by the flash hydrolysis procedure was, in fact, involved in the N,N′‐diacetyl combination. The dose excretion for p‐phenylene diamine as measured by this method was comparable to that found by other authors who made use of radioactively labelled material. The present analytical method can be used to evaluate procedures intended to decrease the percutaneous absorption of p‐phenylene diamine. Thus, a five‐ to ten‐fold decrease in its penetration was observed by protecting the scalp with clay before applying the dyeing composition.
Optical methods for measuring the pearlescent effect in toiletries
Authors: MILLER DENNIS J. , RENG ALWIN K. , SKRYPZAK WERNER 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisPearling agents used to improve the appearance of toiletries are generally judged visually, as it is difficult to devise suitable quantitative tests. If a pearling agent is added to a stirred liquid, moving light and dark patches may be seen. A method has been developed to put this simple test on a quantitative basis. The reflected light is measured using a fibre optic probe. An on‐line computer calculates the ratio of the standard deviation to the mean of the intensity; this is a measure of the pearlescent effect. By combining such measurements with turbidity data, a two‐parameter description of the appearance of the product is obtained. The method may be used for quality control, comparison of commercial formulations or to monitor changes during storage.
Photoallergic potential in the guinea‐pig of the nitromusk perfume ingredients musk ambrette, musk moskene, musk xylene, musk ketone, and musk tibetene
Authors: LOVELL W. W. , SANDERS D. J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe nitromusk perfume ingredient, musk abrette, has been reported to cause photoallergic reactions in man. The potential of alternative, chemically related, nitromusks to cause photoallergy has been studied using the Colworth guinea‐pig photoallergy test.The results showed that, compared with musk ambrette, musk moskene had a weak potential for inducing photoallergy, and that the musks xylene, ketone and tibetene had only very weak potentials. A study of photo‐crossreaction to musk ambrette showed that musk moskene was active, musk xylene was weakly active, while the musks ketone and tibetene were inactive.We conclude that musk moskene is likely to be less hazardous for man than musk ambrette, but caution should be used in selection of concentrations for use on sun‐exposed skin. The musks xylene, ketone and tibetene are likely, photobiologically, to be acceptable alternatives to musk ambrette. The photoallergic potential of the nitromusks can, probably, be related to chemical structure.
Simulated consumer exposure to propellant HCFC 22 (chlorodifluoromethane) in aerosol personal products
Authors: HARTOP P. J. , ADAMS M. G. 
Published: May 2007

SummaryThe potential human exposure to the aerosol propellant HCFC 22 (chlorodifluoromethane) arising from its use in personal products has been assessed. HCFC 22 concentrations were measured in the ‘breathing zone' of an experimental manikin and an ‘accompanying child' designed to simulate human use of hairsprays, body sprays and antiperspirants in a closed room. Results were expressed as the 10‐min time‐weighted average concentration in the air (TWA 10) and as the peak concentration in the ‘breathing zone' of the ‘user’.Following a 10‐s use of hairspray containing approximately 20–40% HCFC 22, TWA10 values for an adult user and child were 64–116 ppm and 44–100 ppm, respectively. Use of an aerosol body spray containing 20–65% HCFC 22 for 5–20 s gave rise to TWA10 values of 32–411 ppm for an adult user and 20–395 ppm for a child. A 4‐s use of an antiperspirant containing approximately 20–40% HCFC 22 sprayed at a distance of 10–30 cm from the breathing zone of the adult user generated TWA 10 values in the range of 14–34 ppm for both the adult user and child. Opening the door of the room prior to hairspray and antiperspirant spraying slightly reduced these TWA 10 values. The peak values recorded in these studies for the adult user were 208 ppm for hairspray, 1415 ppm for body sprays and 82 ppm for antiperspirants.
Changes in surface configuration of the skin caused by ageing and application of cosmetics: three‐dimensional analysis according to a new system based on image analysis and Fourier transformation
Authors: HAYASHI S. , MIMURA K. , NISHIJIMA Y. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe surface configuration of the skin, as characterized by surface furrows and plateaux, is known to change with ageing and skin condition. There have been many attempts to analyse the surface configuration in order to evaluate the effect of skin care products. However, the systems proposed up to now are insufficient to obtain three‐dimensional data.A system based on image analysis and Fourier transformation has been developed. By using this system, we can make a quick and quantitative analysis of the three‐dimensional surface configuration of the skin. This system was applied to measure changes in the surface configuration with ageing, and to clarify the effects of cosmetic cream.As a result, it was found that the furrows become less clear, become parallel in one direction and the texture becomes coarse and irregular, as ageing continues. These changes are believed to correspond to deterioration of the metabolic and moisturizing functions of the skin.It was also found that the furrows become clear and the texture becomes finer after the application of cream than before. This is believed to be the result of the improvement of the skin condition due to the moisturizing effect of the cream.
Hyaluronic acid: analytical procedures for purity determination, polymerization degrees and comparative instrumental test ‘in vivo’
Authors: FIORENTINI G. , BECHERONI L. , IORIO G. DI 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisRecent studies have shown that hyaluronic acid is an important molecule in cosmetics, although there are different, sometimes controversial theories about its role.This work is an analytical contribution to the characterization and control of hyaluronic acid. The main techniques used are UV, GCP or SEC, IR and corneometry.Surveys conducted with the aid of these techniques have allowed a better knowledge of the molecular weight determination and of the uniform quality of commercial supplies.These procedures may be of application for quality control and promote further investigation on the biological tissular role played by hyaluronic acid in topical cosmetic products.The analytical results of a study of the evaluation of oil/water (o/w) emulsions containing hyaluronic acid of different origins are reported. The analytical data obtained from cutaneous hydration control apparatuses were compared statistically.The choice of hyaluronic acid, made through screening and evaluation by the abovementioned techniques, ensures the optimal formulation of the finished product and a quality standard of the active principle.
Contributions to the chemistry of human hair: II. Lipid chemical aspects of permanently waved hair
Authors: HILTERHAUS‐BONG SABINE , ZAHN H. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe cell membrane complex (CMC) and the internal lipids of untreated and permanent waved hair were investigated. The permanent waving procedure results in a lower amount of the cell membrane fraction that could be isolated compared to untreated hair. There is no difference in the amino acid composition of the CMC fractions. The internal hair lipids were extracted from the CMC fraction with chloroform/methanol. For untreated human hair the cell membrane complex yields 57% of lipid material, whereas from the CMC of permanent wave hair only 35% of lipids could be extracted. The polar lipids and the fatty acids are the main components of the internal hair lipids. After a permanent waving treatment there is a distinct decrease in the polar lipid fraction which is higher at alkaline (pH 9) than at neutral pH (pH 7). The reduction treatment at pH 9.0 also causes a cleavage of the fatty acid fraction in the internal hair lipids.