bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Thermal Transitions in Keratin
Authors: Mason P. 
Published: March 2007

Simple methods for the observation of thermal transitions in keratin fibers are dis cussed and some typical results are described. For wool fibers or human hair stretched in water by approximately 0.5% (Hookean region), transitions were detected by bends in the force-temperature curve at points A. D. and E. occurring at approximately 30°. 80°, and 90° C. respectively. In addition, a transition region BC was shown up by a "smeared" curvature of the force-temperature curve over the approximate range 50- 60° C. This region BC corresponds to previously reported transitions in mechanical behavior and in thermal expansion: it is shown to be associated with crystalline micro- fibrils. Reduction of the cystine in human hair, followed by methylation, widened the region BC but produced little change in the other transitions. Reduction of wool fibers without methylation produced a significant decrease in temperature of the whole region BC. but again there was little change in the other transition temperatures. By contrast, the transition A was lowered by using dilute alcoholic solutions, showing that hydrophobic bonding makes a contribution to the stability of the wool structure.
Studies on Cotton Crimp
Authors: Shiloh Miriam , Litav Yvette 
Published: March 2007

The crimp parameters of various cotton samples were measured at four testing cycles with a relaxation period between the second and the third cycles. The recovery co efficients of these parameters were determined. It was found that at a second cycle the immediate recovery coefficients are 70 % for the crimp diameters and 50% for the crimp ratios and uncrimping energies. After a relaxation period of 24 hours, the re coveries become higher—65% for the crimp ratios and uncrimping energies and an almost complete recovery of the crimp diameters. At a fourth cycle, which follows the third one immediately, the results were found to be essentially the same as at the second one. By these results the presence of reversible and irreversible components of the crimp in cotton was indicated and their respective amounts were estimated. The differences between the mean recovery coefficients of the various crimp parameters of all cotton samples were not found to be significant. Typical linear relationships which were found in the first part of this study for the crimp parameters at the first cycle were found for other testing cycles as well. The role of crimp recovery in cotton spinning is discussed.
Mechanical Behavior of Fabrics
Authors: Brenner F.C. , Chen C.S. 
Published: March 2007

In the cyclic plate buckling and shearing of fabrics, two types of load-deformation response have been observed. There are those whose load deformation curves closely reproduce each other upon cycling and those whose curves precess. The former are referred to as "stable" curves, the latter as "unstable" curves. Unstable curves are obtained on fabrics in which there are large frictional effects and the yarns move appreciable distances during deformation. From energy considera tions, it is shown that fabrics that produce stable curves will recover from' deformation better than those that produce unstable curves. This results because more energy will be stored during deformation and it requires less of the stored energy to overcome frictional effects during recovery in fabrics with stable responses.
Uptake of Clays by Cotton1
Authors: Schott Hans 
Published: March 2007

Cotton swatches were treated with dispersions of sodium and calcium montmorit lonite and kaolinite. The amount of clay taken up by the fabric or retained after washing with water was studied as a function of clay concentration, number of wash cycles, and stirring speed. Fabrics treated with sodium montmorillonite dispersions of different concentrations seemed to reach a saturation uptake of 0.32% clay at very low clay concentrations. An apparent saturation limit of 0.75% clay was obtained for calcium montmorittonite only at higher concentrations, and no saturation was observed for kaolinite. Cotton swatches treated with sodium montmorillonite dispersions and given suc cessive wash cycles attained the constant clay content of 0.13% ± 0.01% after the third wash cycle. This level of tenaciously retained clay was independent of concentration. rate of stirring, and temperature. It was not increased by introducing carhoxytic acid groups into the cellulose in the H+, Na+, Ca++ or Fe+++ form. The ash of fabric treated with sodium montmorillonite was a shrunken replica of the fabric, preserving microscopic details faithfully. These facts and comparison of the specific surface areas of cotton and sodium montmorillonite indicate that cotton was completely covered with a clay layer having an average depth of 3-4 laniellae of 9.5 A each. Owing to the fact that primary particles in sodium montmorillonite dis persions are packets averaging 3-4 lamellae, the depth of coverage was greater than single lamellae. The ash of fabric treated with kaolinite retained the bare outline of the weave because kaolinite did hot cover the fibrils with a coherent layer. Successive wash cycles gradually reduced the kaolinite level of the fabric, following first-order kinetics. Cal cium montmorillonite was intermediate between sodium montmorillonite and kaolinite : the ashes preserved the microscopic details of the fabric structure, but a constant clay level was only attained by fabric treated with dilute dispersions and after many wash cycles. The difference between sodium montmorillonite and kaolinite results from the fact that montmorillonite breaks up into very thin flakes in water and has a much higher specific surface area than kaolinite. Moreover, the thinner montmorillonite flakes mold themselves to the cellulose fibrils and establish a much more intimate contact than the less Hexible kaolinite.
Nonwoven Fabric Studies
Authors: Zeronian S.H. , Wilkinson J. 
Published: March 2007

The binder contents, initial moduli (measured from the initial slopes of load- elongation curves) and bending moduli of laboratory-made and commercial, saturation- bonded nonwoven fabrics have been determined. The materials have also been de laminated and the binder contents of the delaminated materials have been determined, together with the initial moduli of the delaminated surface sections. The results show that in all the fabrics examined the binder distribution is not uniform in the thickness direction of the materials. It is found that the fabrics become more difficult to delaminate as the binder distribution becomes more uniform. There is a considerable discrepancy between the initial modulus and bending modulus of all the fabrics tested. The results are discussed in terms of the effect of binder content distribution on the initial modulus and bending modulus of the fabrics. The fibrous material present in laboratory-made saturation-bonded nonwoven mate rials of progressively decreasing binder content has been dissolved out and the form of the residues examined. With all three binders examined, the residues of fabrics of 6% binder content were in the form of films, indicating the presence of a continuous matrix of binder in the original materials. With two of the binders, the residues of fabrics of 3% binder content were also in the form of films.
Effects of Variety and Location on Stress-Strain Components of Cotton Fiber Bundles
Authors: Worley Smith , Krowicki Richard S. , Henry Zachary A. 
Published: March 2007

A definition and a method of measuring true gage length is presented. An increase of true gage over nominal gage length is shown. Greater differentiability of true gage length is indicated for locations than varieties at the same locations. Tenacity and elongation values with and without adjustment for true gage length are compared. Adjusted values indicate underestimates of tenacity and overestimates of elongation at nominal gage length. Tenacity values appear to decrease while elonga tion appears to increase with decreasing night temperatures.
Improvement of Luster of Wool Fabrics
Authors: Fourt Lyman 
Published: March 2007

Methods for increasing the luster of wool fabrics have been compared. Where luster arises from oriented pile fibers, as in velour coating fabrics, the luster can be increased and made more durable by light interfacial polymerization treatments or by reduction and setting with monoethanolamine sulfite. When luster depends on the surface properties of the fibers, as in clear finish worsteds, some of the oxidative or subtractive antifelting treatments also add to luster. Chlorination with chlorine gas or acid hypochlorite treatments are the most favorable. Adverse effects on hand limit these treatments. Other oxidative shrinkproofing treat ments show less improvement in luster or even lower it. Film-forming polymers can be used to increase the luster of clear-finish fabrics if they are applied after a preliminary treatment which increases the surface energy of the wool fibers. When applied without the pretreatment, the polymers produced smaller increases in luster or even decreased the luster. ' Effective preliminary treatments are shrinkproofing by acid or alkaline hypochlorite, oxidation with hydrogen peroxide, or reduction with thioglycolic acid.
The Behavior of Fabrics in Shear
Authors: Spivak S.M. 
Published: March 2007

A new instrumental method for the analysis of the stress-strain behavior of fabrics in shear has been designed which utilizes the Instron and its automatic recording. It is similar in principle to the laboratory method previously employed by Treloar. A cotton and a spun viscose fabric were investigated for their dependence of shear properties on specimen shape and normal stress. The range of variables previously investigated by Treloar has been extended to include specimen shapes corresponding to length: width ratios of 1:1 to 20: 1, and normal stresses of 0 to 120 g/cm. It was found that the properties of the long, narrow specimen in shear were much less sensitive to the normal stress than were those of the square specimen, particularly at the important lower values of the normal stress. The more favorable wrinkling behavior of the long, narrow specimen enables one to extend the range of test conditions beyond those of the square specimen. It is further shown that Behre's theory for the incidence of wrinkling could not be experimentally corroborated.
The Modification of Wool Fabric by Certain Organic Sorbates
Authors: Griffith June C. 
Published: March 2007

Organic sorbates, chiefly sulfate and sulfonate derivatives, when adsorbed by wool from aqueous solution decreased the amount of water the fabric would absorb subse quently. The thermodynamic parameters for the adsorption of one of the sorbates have been obtained and compared with those for other protein/detergent systems. The over all change in standard entropy of adsorption is positive ; the interpretation of this is that dye adsorption is accompanied by water desorption, leading to an increase in entropy. As the amount of sorbate incorporated into the wool increases, the amount of water desorbed increases. The sorbate is not readily desorbed when the treated fabric is sub sequently exposed to water and, hence, the change in entropy for the sorption of water by the treated fabric will be different from the corresponding change for the untreated fabric. This factor should be considered in discussion of the regain of treated fabric. It was not possible to compare the water-sorption properties of all the treated fabrics on the basis of the molar concentration of the additive. Where comparisons could be made, it was evident that those additives containing the highest percentage of alkyl chain per molecule produced the greatest lowering of regain in the hydration region of the sorption isotherm and, therefore, presumably the greatest decrease in the polar nature of the wool. It is suggested that the decrease in saturation regain of the treated fabrics is analogous to the precipitation of water-insoluble anionic detergent/protein complexes.
Improved Abrasion Resistance Through Internal Lubrication
Authors: Chipalkatti V.B. , Sattur N.B. , Husain I. , Bajaj P. 
Published: March 2007

, The cross-linking reaction of cellulose with lauroyl and stearoyl ester is described. With increasing number of carbon atoms in the ester substituent, the reactivity and wet crease recovery decreased. There is an improvement in tear and abrasion resistance and, with stearoyl ester, a remarkable improvement (5 to 20 times) in flex abrasion resistance. The tear resistance, however, is improved only to the extent of 10% to 50%. By using a modified microscopic count technique and a polarizing microscope, it is shown that the cellulose is cross-linked. The degree of insolubility in cuprithylene diamine is proportional to the degree of cross-linking. Bulk scale application of stearoyl dichloropropanol (DCP) to two fabrics, viz, medium and superfine poplins, has been done. An improvement in abrasion resistance of about 500% to 800% and tear resistance of 20% to 50% has been recorded. The finish is stable to mild laundering, boiling 0.5 N aqueous caustic soda, and boiling 0.5% non-ionic detergent. However, boiling solutions of soap (0.5%) and soda (0.2%) hydrolyze the ester-link, though the cross-linking is still unaffected. The treated fabrics are suitable base materials for wash-wear treatment and it is possible to obtain wash-wear fabrics with abrasion resistance equivalent to or higher than the starting material. Some data on field wear trials of SDCP-treated fabrics are presented and discussed. It is concluded that the idea of providing internal or built-in lubrication by the use of three carbon cross links, with a bulky substituent at the center, may open up a new approach to enhance the abrasion resistance of cotton and other cellulosic textiles.
New Catalysts for Resin Finishing
Authors: Burkitt F.H. , Ryan J.J. , Tattersal R. , Taylor P.J. 
Published: March 2007

The chemical characteristics of a new class of catalysts have been investigated. The development of acidity has been shown to depend only on the catalyst concentra tion—a mechanism which gives the new catalysts special advantages in resin finishing. Another group of catalysts based on sulfonium compounds has also been developed. They have been shown to possess a "trigger" temperature, but the mechanistn of their behavior is obscure.
The Effect of Machine Action on Soil Removal from Wool During Laundering
Authors: Brooks J.H. , McPhee J.R. 
Published: March 2007

Two artificial soils were most effectively removed from wool in an impeller-type machine, but, considering their greatly different effects on felting rate, the differences in efficiency of all the machines studied were relatively small. A rotating-drum machine was almost as good as the impeller-type for removing a particulate soil, but was worst of all for an oily soil. Soap removed the oily soil from both untreated and shrink-resist-treated wool more effectively than did the synthetic anionic detergents, but the order was reversed for the particulate soil.
Mixed-Stream Spinning of Bicomponent Fibers1
Authors: Fitzgerald W.E. , Knudsen J.P. 
Published: March 2007

Studies of the flow properties of merged spinning solutions have led to new methods for spinning bicomponent acrylic fibers. The underlying principle is that two or more spinning solutions can be merged into a common-flow stream without any significant mixing between component streams. With proper control, the technique produces a flow stream with a predetermined arrangement of the component streams. The arrange ment of component streams can be very regular or seemingly random. When a mixed-component stream is spun from a spinnerette, a bicomponent fiber is produced. The distribution of components between and along filaments is determined by the arrangement of components in the common stream and the arrangement of holes on the spinnerette. Readily controllable variations in the mixed-stream patterning and spinnerette-hole arrangement are sufficient to permit production of a whole family of bicomponent fibers, ranging from "true" conjugate (similar to those produced with conventional conjugate spinnerettes) to fibers with a truly random distribution of components.
Oxidation of Formaldehyde Cross-Linked Cotton
Authors: Lewin Menachem , Weinstein Shulamit 
Published: March 2007

Cross-linking with HCHO appears to exert a highly stabilizing effect on cotton fabrics, which expresses itself in greatly lowered oxidation rates with NaClO at pH 7 and in a change in the oxidation mechanisms, bringing about a smaller yield of functional groups, an increase in oxidant consumed per chain scission, i.e., a smaller degradation and smaller losses in tear and burst strength upon oxidation. The main stabilization occurs for 0.3% to 0.9% bound HCHO, in which the largest increase in wrinkle recovery angle and the largest decrease in oxidation rates are observed, indicating that at this range interchain cross links are formed. Upon increasing the bound HCHO level from 0.9 to 2.0%, a relatively small further decrease in oxidation rate, a small, further increase in WRA, an insignificant increase in amount of oxidant per chain scission, but a drastic reduction in the number of functional groups per scission are obtained, indicating the formation of intra-AGU links. Most of the oxidation of the cotton at the 2.0% HCHO level appears to be associated directly with chain scissions occurring at the glucosidic C 1-C4 linkages, yielding aldehyde groups at C1 and ketone groups at C4. The nitration method for the determination of the D.P. was found to be applicable to HCHO-cross-linked cottons and straight-line relationships were obtained for tear strength versus 1/D.P. for cottons containing up to 0.9% HCHO.
Fiber Surface Properties in Relation to Linear Assemblies During Processing1
Authors: Scardino Francis L. , Lyons W. James 
Published: March 2007

This paper reports the results of processitig on the worsted system. Two model fiber samples, which differed only in surface roughness, were specially prepared and cut into lengths suitable for processing on the worsted yarn system (also for the cotton and woolen yarn systems). Static and dynamic cohesion tests on sliver and roving samples indicated that geometrically smoother fibers (those having fewer asperities on the surface) lead to greater cohesion in fiber assemblies. Similarly, in blends of smooth and rough fibers in slivers, the cohesion was found to increase consistently with increas ing percentage of smooth fibers. As indicated by performance during opening processes, geometrically smooth fibers were found to be more difficult to separate from one another. The rougher fiber samples appeared to open much more easily and more thoroughly than the smooth sam ples in the same number of operations. In subsequent processes, the greater cohesion of the smooth samples was found to lead to reduced actual drafts under certain processing conditions. It was found that the degree of twist normally used in staple yarns itself sufficiently restricts the relative movement of fibers to mask the direct effects of fiber surface properties under tensile load. However, results indicated that twist masks the direct effects of fiber surface properties in the yarns (at near optimum twist), but the yarns reflect in evenness, average tensile properties, and actual draft—features introduced in earlier processing.
The Relative Reactivities of the Hydroxyl Groups of Cotton Cellulose—A Progress Report1
Authors: Rowland S.P. , Bullock A.L. , Cirino V.O. , Roberts E.J. , Hoiness D.E. , Wade C.P. , Brannan M.A.F. , Janssen H.J. , Pittman P.F. 
Published: March 2007

Major preceding studies of the distribution of substituents in cellulose have been reviewed. Over-all results indicate that the highest degree of reaction occurs at the hydroxyl group on C-2 in the case of the irreversible Williamson syntheses involving reagents of small molecular size. Pronounced preferential reaction occurs at the hy droxyl group on C-6 in the case of reversible reactions and with increasing molecular size of reagent. The relative reactivities of the hydroxyl groups on C-2, C-3, and C-6 of the D(1→4)- β-glucopyranosyl unit of cotton cellulose have been explored with three chemical agents. Predominant reaction of cotton cellulose occurs at the primary hydroxyl group on C-6 in the case of the reversible Michael addition of methyl vinyl sulfone (i.e., 2-0- : 3-0- : 6-0- = 0.20: 0.03: 1.00), at the hydroxyl groups on C-2 and C-6 in the case of the irreversible reaction with diethylaminoethyl chloride (1.27 : 0.35 : 1.00), and at the hydroxyl groups on C-6 and C-2 in the case of the irreversible Williamson synthesis with sodium allyl sulfate (0.7:0.2:1.0). The D-(1→4)-α-glucopyranosyl unit of dextrin (employed as a soluble model compound for cellulose) undergoes reversible esterification with formic acid most rapidly and to the highest equilibrium level at the primary hydroxyl group on C-6.
Effects of Bases on the Pyrolysis of Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Mack Charles H. , Donaldson Darrell J. 
Published: March 2007

Highly purified cotton cellulose, which has been impregnated with alkali metal bases or basic salts to various weight levels (up to 2% for the bases and up to 5% for the basic salts), was examined by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), differential thermal analysis (DTA), and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). All analyses were carried out under purified dry nitrogen at heating rates up to 40°/min. The enthalpies ΔH of pyrolyses, transition temperatures, and activation energies were estimated, using published methods and equations. The effect of added base, in the temperature ranges associated with cellulosic thermal degradation (> 280°C), resulted in (1) altered thermal pattern and AH of pyrolysis, (2) lowered transition temperature, (3) no change in first- order reaction kinetics (between 20-80% decomposition), (4) decreased energy of activation, (5) decreased release of "tars," and (6) increased residue (char). These observations are interpreted to mean that the base is acting as a cellulose pyrolysis catalyst. The significance of these results is discussed in relation to recent studies of the pyrolysis of cellulose itself.
Design of an On-Line Computer-Based Textile Information Retrieval System
Authors: Sheldon R.C. , Roach R.A. , Backer S. 
Published: March 2007

A design is reported for a compatible time-sharing system for textile information storage and retrieval. Simultaneous utilization of an IBM 7094 by 25 to 30 independent users is indicated, some solving mathematical problems, others retrieving information. The principal files of the information system permit the recording and retrieval of document data as to authors, subject matter, and other necessary bibliographic infor mation. During posting and updating of the files, a structured thesaurus is employed as an automatic filter for data input. Varied searching techniques are described, some based on subject inquiry, others on authors, references, or citations. Emphasis is given to action by the user to immedi ate computer response to his inquiries. A sample dialogue between man and machine is reported. Successful interstate and transatlantic demonstrations of the system are reported.