bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
The extraction, quantification, and nature of hair lipid
Authors: SHAW D. A. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA sensitive method is described for the spectrophotometric assay of hair lipid extracted from hair samples less than 10 mg in weight, i.e. for amounts of lipid down to about 5 μg. The solvent‐free lipid extract is charred by heating in conc. sulphuric acid and the light absorbance of the acid is subsequently measured, after dilution, at 375 nm. Diethyl ether extracted only about one‐third of the total hair lipid after 10 min at room temperature but this probably constitutes most of the surface hair lipid.Water‐saturated ether heated under reflux extracted about two‐thirds of the total lipid from hair which had been previously equilibrated in an atmosphere of 100% relative humidity. Saponified internal hair lipid was extracted after dissolution of the hair in aq. 2 M potassium hydroxide. Examination of the hair lipid extracts by thin layer chromatography and gas–liquid chromatography suggested that most of the internal lipid was of sebaceous origin. L'extraction, dosage et l'identification des lipides du cheveu
Hair lipid and surfactants. Extraction of lipid by surfactants and lack of effect of shampooing on rate of re‐fatting of hair
Authors: SHAW D. A. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe efficiences of extraction of hair lipid by aqueous solutions of surfactants, using a one‐stage washing procedure, are highly variable, roughly averaging 50% of the lipid readily extractable with diethyl ether at room temperature. Anionic surfactants are significantly more efficient than the non‐ionic surfactant, Tween 20R. Repeated washing of hair continually removes lipid. It is suggested that a one‐stage washing procedure removes essentially all the hair‐surface lipids and that differences in cleaning efficiences of surfactants reflect differences in the amounts of internal hair lipid eluted. Variation of the frequency of shampooing from once to three times weekly had no significant effect on the rate of re‐fatting of hair when two anionic surfactants in commercial shampoo formulations were investigated, i.e. no evidence was obtained in support of either the hypothesis for a feedback mechanism for control of the level of hair lipid, or the suggestion that surfactants can directly stimulate sebaceous gland activity. Lipides du cheveu et surfactants‐extraction des lipides par les surfactants et absence d'effet des shampooings sur le taux de regraissage du cheveu
Preparation and characterisation of the C10 to C18 even‐numbered triethanolamine alkyl sulphates
Authors: BADWAN A. A. , JAMES K. C. , PUGH W. J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe preparation and characterisation of purified C10 to C18 even‐numbered triethano‐lamine alkyl sulphates are described. Critical micelle concentrations were determined at 25°C, using both conductance and drop volume methods. The authenticity and purity of the products are established, and evidence presented for amending the accepted melting points for two of the compounds.Preparation et identification des alkysulfates de triethanolamine en C10, C12, C14, C16, C18
Electrical impedance changes and water content in O/W emulsions during evaporation
Authors: SAETTONE M. F. , NANNIPIERI E. , CERVETTO L. , ESCHINI N. , CARELLI V. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA method for measuring the variation of electrical impedance (Z) of thin layers (0.1 mm) of O/W emulsions during evaporation in a controlled environment is presented. The evaporation of an emulsion base (A) either as such and containing 1% glycerin (B) or 1% sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate (C) was investigated for 120 min at constant air temperature (25°C) and relative humidity (55%). The measured impedance of the emulsion layers increased by three orders of magnitude during the evaporation cycles. The relationship between impedance and water content of the evaporating emulsion layers was investigated. Each emulsion showed a complex linear relationship between log Z and water content, the relationship being represented by two (three, for emulsion A) linear portions in the graph. Plots of water content vs. time, temperature vs. time and rate of water loss vs. water content of the emulsion layers are presented. The data appear to indicate that evaporation proceeds via distinct stages, whose correspondence to different mechanisms of water evaporation is discussed. The potentiality of the present method for water analysis, and for investigating structural changes in emulsions during evaporation, is also discussed. Les variations d'impédance électrique et la teneur en eau d'émulsions huile dans eau en cours d'évaporation
A statistical model for predicting the particle distribution of an atomised powder in liquid mixture
Authors: CALLINGHAM M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA general stochastic model has been derived to show how a particulate solid phase dispersed in a liquid phase will be distributed through drops of the liquid when it is atomised into air or emulsified into an immiscible liquid. The process is applicable to the atomisation that occurs with an aerosol antiperspirant of the suspension type. The model accounts for the disproportionation of such systems by particle size that occurs during atomisation. It also provides a vehicle, in the case of an aerosol antiperspirant, for relating measurements taken in‐flight by a laser imaging method with measurements of the constituent powder obtained by scanning electron microscopy to the amount and composition of material collected by the Hexhlet Elutriator, and shows these methods to be complementary. Une modeèle statistique pour prévoir la distribution des particules d'une poudre atomisée dans un liquide
Differential thermal analysis of human sebum as a new approach to rheological behaviour
Authors: BORE P. , GOETZ N. , CARON J. C. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe oily aspect of a hair is not only the consequence of an excessive lipidic production on the scalp; the quality of the fatty mixture should also be considered.Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) is a useful tool for qualitative examination of human sebum. The melting curves recorded using this technique characterise the seborrhoeic state of the subject, their profile being related to the clinical appreciation.Data from DSC are correlated with other physico‐chemical characteristics of sebum, especially with the proportion of unsaturated fatty acids in the whole fatty acids fraction.The straight chain monoenic acids have been more closely examined. A number of positional isomers can be seen; the distribution of the C18 isomers varies according to the seborrhoeic state of the subject. L'analyse énthalpique differentielle du sébum. Une nouvelle approche concernant la rhéologie.
L'excrétion sébacée. Méthodes d'étude. Intervention des facteurs physiques environnants
Authors: BLANC D. , AGACHE P. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisL'excrétion sébacée constitue une intéressante méthode indirecte de quantification de l'activité sécrétoire de ces glandes, malgré les fluctuations engendrées par des facteurs physiques environnants, tels que température cutanée et sudation. Les techniques d'exploration de l'excrétion sébacée se doivent d'être rigoureuses et au mieux codifiées, aussi bien dans la détermination de ses paramètres statiques (casual level ou CL) que dynamiques (sebum excretion rate ou SER). La méconnaissance encore à l'heure actuelle des mécanismes fins régissant l'excrétion sébacée, l'impossibilité d'affirmer ou d'infirmer une autorégulation, rendent compte des ecueils rencontrés dans l'exploration et la compréhension de ces phénomènes. Sebum Excretion. Methods of measurement and influence of physical factors SummarySebum excretion is the entire feature which governs sebum outflow to the skin surface through follicular pore. It can be measured by numerous methods, the first of which, devised by Emanuel in 1936, was a solvent extraction followed by desiccation and weighing. At present, virtually the only methods used are the gravimetric and photometric ones. The first one, using absorbent paper to collect the sebum, was introduced by Strauss and Pochi, and improved by Cunliffe and Shuster. Schaefer and Kuhn‐Bussius’ photometric method is about as accurate as the previous one, but more simple and more rapid to use.Two parameters can be used to quantify sebum excretion: one static, the casual level (CL), i.e. the skin surface lipid amount of a non protected area neither wiped nor washed; the other is dynamic, the sebum excretion rate (SER), i.e. the skin surface lipid flow of a previously cleaned area. The significant differences of these values between different sex and/or age matched groups, give an account of the various stimulation levels of the sebaceous glands according to the underlying endocrine state.Several attempts have been made to show a sebum excretion regulation. Unfortunately, because of the divergences of their results, there is still no definite evidence of such an event occuring. Numerous experiments have also been carried out on the effects of skin temperature and sweat on sebum excretion.The first of these two parameters can act upon sebum skin surface spreading by changing sebum viscosity. The second one can modify local surface tension.Finally, the existence of a circadian rhythm constitutes a further parameter which must not be neglected when interpreting investigations of sebum excretion.
Current concept of allergic skin reactions
Authors: POLAK LADISLAV 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisOn the basis of literature and experimental work the present views on the mechanism of the development of allergic skin reactions of the contact type are reviewed.Precursors of effector cells originating from stem cells are stimulated by the antigenic complex formed by the application of the hapten to the skin. Autologous skin proteins and macrophages play an important role in this preparatory and antigen recognition phases. Activated T lymphocytes proliferate in the draining lymph node and differentiate into effector and memory cells. The former react to a repeated application of the hapten with release of mediators inducing a skin inflammatory reaction. The latter produce further effector cells thus enhancing the degree of contact sensitivity (booster effect).The hapten application also activates a specific control mechanism consisting of lymphocytes with the same specificity but adverse activity. These cells, called suppressors, restrict the development of further effector cells thus limiting the degree of contact sensitivity.Elimination of suppressor cells leads to an enhancement of the degree of contact sensitivity whereas an intended extreme activation of these cells induces a state of specific immunological unresponsiveness (tolerance). Concept générale des réactions allergiques cutanées
The metabolism of androgens in male pattern alopecia: a review
Authors: BINGHAM K. D. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe studies carried out on the metabolism of testosterone and other circulating androgens in human scalp skin and hair follicles have been reviewed with the aim of understanding the role of these androgens in male pattern alopecia (baldness). Le metabolisme des androgènes dans la calvitie chez l'homme
The inhibitory effect of some amphoteric surfactants on the irritation potential of alkylsulphates
Authors: DOMÍNGUEZ J. GARCÍA , BALAGUER F. , PARRA J. L. , PELEJERO C. M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe physico‐chemical and biological properties of an amphoteric/anionic system and its behaviour against a proteinic support have been thoroughly investigated. A considerable inhibition of adsorption of SLS (sodium lauryl sulphate) on human callus caused by the presence of definite amounts of AABet (alkyl‐amido‐betaines) in the treatment bath is observed. These physico‐chemical results are in agreement with those obtained by some in vivo biological tests. A mechanism of the process via the formation of mixed micelles is postulated emphasizing the stability of such systems as a function of pH, the influence of the chain length of the amphoteric surfactant and the molar relative ratio SLS/AABet. Consequently, our work offers the possibility of a wide applicability of the synergic mixtures of both types of surfactants to inhibit considerably skin irritation of cosmetic finished products.
Study of the photochemical behaviour of sunscreens – benzylidene camphor and derivatives
Authors: BECK IRÉNA , DEFLANDRE ANDRÉ , LANG GÉRARD , ARNAUD RÉNE , LEMAIR JAQUES 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisBenzylidene camphor derivatives have been currently used as ultraviolet filters in sunscreen compositions. When solutions of these compounds are exposed to the light from a solar simulator, a photoinduced cis‐trans isomerization is observed. The initial quantum yields of this photochemical isomerization of studied molecules have been determined in several solvents. Their photochemical behaviour depends neither on the concentration nor on the presence or absence of oxygen or other inhibitors such as isopropanol or biacetyl. It means that the lifetime of the precursor states of isomerization is about 10−12s, that is to say, too short for them to react with neighbouring molecules.For each compound, the ratio of the respective concentrations of ‘E’ and ‘Z’ forms was also determined by photostationary state. A good agreement between theoretical and experimental values of this ratio shows that the studied compounds are only very slightly photodegradable. This was confirmed by the low values of photodegradation quantum yields.In case of the studied compounds, the isomerization process observed is totally reversible. During irradiation a photostationary state is quickly reached, each isomer may change into the other form after absorption of a photon which leads to a mixture of isomers. In practice, it is this mixture of E and Z forms which acts as UV filters.It may be said that a very short lifetime of the excited states, a good light stability and a reaction inertia under light irradiation make these compounds excellent sunscreen agents. Comportement photochimique des antisolaires. Benzylidène camphre et certans de ses dérivés
The effect of hair care products on dandruff
Authors: ABBE NORMAN J. VAN , BAXTER PATRICIA M. , JACKSON JILL , BELL MELISSA A. , DIXON HAROLD 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisAlthough the role of micro‐organisms located on the surface of the scalp is disputed by some authors, lipolytic organisms within the hair follicle may still be implicated in the causation of dandruff. Scale formation appears to be an adaptive response to threshold scalp irritation, taking the form of minimal parakeratosis possibly induced by products of lipolysis permeating thin regions of the horny layer. No single pathogen is yet clearly identifiable but effective anti‐dandruff compounds display good antimicrobial activity against the typical lipolytic scalp microflora; this activity is retained in the presence of sebum and a feature of the most efficacious anti‐dandruff agents is their good substantivity to the epidermal horny layer. L'action des produits capillaires sur les pellicules
Mutagenicity of aminonitrophenol compounds in Salmonella typhimurium: a study of structural‐activity relationships
Authors: SHAHIN MAJDI M. , BUGAUT A. , KALOPISSIS G. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisIn our studies of structure‐activity relationships, four aminonitrophenol isomers and eleven derivatives of 3‐amino‐4‐nitrophenol and 4‐amino‐3‐nitrophenol were tested for their ability to induce mutations in Salmonella typhimurium strains TA1535, TA100, TA1537, TA1538 and TA98. In the presence of an Aroclor‐1254‐induced rat‐liver microsomal activation system (S9mix), 4‐N‐β‐hydroxyethylamino‐3‐nitroanisole and (4‐amino‐3‐nitro) phenoxyethanol were mutagenic in several of these strains. The compounds 3‐amino‐4‐nitrophenol, 3‐N‐methylamino‐4‐nitrophenol, 3‐N‐β‐hydroxyethylamino‐4‐nitrophenol, 3‐amino‐4‐nitroanisole, 3‐N‐methylamino‐4‐nitroanisole, 3‐N‐β‐hydroxyethylamino‐4‐nitroanisole, (3‐amino‐4‐nitro)phenoxyethanol, (3‐methylamino‐4‐nitro)phenoxyethanol, (3‐N‐β‐hydroxyethylamino‐4‐nitro)phenoxyethanol, 4‐amino‐3‐nitrophenol and 4‐N‐β‐hydroxyethylamino‐3‐nitrophenol were inactive, both in the presence and in the absence of S9 mix. In contrast to the results with 3‐amino‐4‐nitrophenol and 4‐amino‐3‐nitrophenol, which were negative, the isomers 2‐amino‐4‐nitrophenol and 2‐amino‐5‐nitrophenol were found to be mutagenic. These results on mutagenic and non‐mutagenic aminonitrophenols and their derivatives suggest that the occurrence of mutagenic activity among these compounds depends on the nature of the substituent chemical groups and their position in the molecular structure of the compounds. Aminonitriphenols: relation structure‐activité
Safety evaluation of some humectants and moisturizers used in cosmetic formulations
Authors: GUILLOT J. P. , MARTINI M. C. , GIAUFFRET J. Y. , GONNET J. F. , GUYOT J. Y. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisSafety tests have been carried out on some humectants and moisturizers, continuing a study involving commonly used cosmetic ingredients (1–6). The test substances (listed in Table I) were products from various suppliers and of different types and grades. The ocular and cutaneous tolerance tests have been conducted on animals following the official French methods but with some complements or modifications (28–36). Each compound has been tested as supplied and diluted in water. Pathological lesions of the ocular mucous membrane were provoked by lactic acid at 20 and 10% concentrations. A slight corneal opacity was also noted with ethoxydiglycol and polyamino sugar condensate and a significant irritation with hexylene glycol (non‐diluted). In dilutions of 10 or 20%, these substances were non‐irritating. Only one product (lactic acid) has given a moderate primary cutaneous irritation (PII = 2.50), when applied undiluted. The indices obtained with the other raw materials correspond to a non‐irritating application.With the exception of lactic acid (the study being terminated after 1 week), no significant adverse reaction was macroscopically and histologically observed after daily application (neat) for 6 weeks.Finally, the predictive sensitizing tests (guinea‐pig) carried out with two samples of propylene glycol proved to be negative. Evaluation toxicologique d'agents d'hydratation utilisés en cosmétologie
Emulsification des huiles végétales: application à l'huile d'olive
Authors: DELONCA H. , ALVARADO D. , SAUNAL H. , Et J. PASSET , LAGET J.P. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisLe présent travail a eu pour but de comprendre les phénomènes régissant la stabilité des émulsions H/E à base d'huile d'olive et de tensio actifs non ioniques. Ces surfactifs ont été utilisés en association (un émulsif hydrophile/un émulsif lipophile) de façon à obtenir une gamme de valeurs HLB s'étendant de 7 à 12. Dans ces conditions l'émulsification de l'huile d'olive n'a été possible que dans le cas où l'émulsif lipophile du couple comportait une chaine stéarique, isostéarique ou stéarylique, et lorsque l'émulsif hydrophile possédait une chaine hydrophile de poids moléculaire moyen (400 < PM < 600). Ces résultats tendent à confirmer la théorie selon laquelle la stabilité des émulsions est favorisée par un film interfacial de type lamellaire.Ce travail a également permis de mettre en évidence la fragilité de la notion de HLB critique dans le cas de l'huile d'olive. Emulsification of vegetable oils: application to olive oil
The influence of fatty alcohols on the structure and stability of creams prepared with polyethylene glycol 1000 monostearate/fatty alcohols
Authors: ECCLESTON G. M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisLiquid paraffin in water emulsions stabilized by PEG 1000 monostearate and alcohols cetostearyl (c/s) myristyl (C14), cetyl (C16) or stearyl (C18) and ternary systems prepared by dispersing each fatty alcohol and surfactant in water were examined during 30 days using a Ferranti‐Shirley cone and plate viscometer. Microscopical diffusion experiments investigated interaction between PEG 1000 monostearate solution and each alcohol at high and low temperature.The rheological properties of each ternary system and corresponding emulsion were similar. Formulations prepared from pure C14, C16 or c/s alcohols were semisolid immediately after preparation. Flow curves were in the form of anticlockwise hysteresis loops with spur points. On ageing for 24 h, structure built‐up over a time scale similar to that observed in diffusion experiments, so that apparent viscosities increased. However, on further ageing the pure C14 and C16 alcohol systems were not as stable as those prepared with c/s alcohol. In contrast, the pure C18 systems were mobile liquids and the emulsion cracked within days. This correlated with diffusion experiments where little interaction was observed between stearyl alcohol and PEG 1000 monostearate.Emulsion consistencies and stabilities were related to the low temperature structures formed in the continuous phases. L'influence des alcools gras sur la structure et la stabilité des crèmes préparées à partir de systèmes monostéarate de polyéthylène glycol 1000/alcools gras.
An investigation of detergent action on cells in vitro and possible correlations with in vivo data
Authors: SCAIFE M. C. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA cell fluorescence method for quantifying the effects of detergents on cultured cell lines is described. The results are discussed in relation to other findings in the literature. These results are compared to data obtained with the same detergents in the rabbit eye test and the possible correlations and discrepancies are considered.SummaryDetails are given of the culture of two human epithelioid cell lines (HeLa and HEp2) and their utilization in a procedure to assess the cytotoxicity of detergents on cells in monolayer culture. The method is dependent on the ability of relatively intact cells to liberate and retain fluorescein from fluorescein diacetate. Ethidium bromide, a red fluorescent compound, is used to stain the nuclear material remaining in membrane‐damaged cells. The results of the in vitro test are compared to the data obtained from the responses seen in the rabbit eye on instillation of the same detergents. For sodium and triethanolamine alkyl sulphates at comparable concentrations, an increase in chain length increases the in vitro cytotoxicity but decreases the effects seen in the conjunctivae, cornea and iris. For the C12, C14 and C16 alkyl trimethylammonium bromides, an increase in chain length increases in vitro cytotoxicity as well as the in vivo responses. Tweens 20 and 40 appeared more damaging in vivo than Tweens 60 and 80; this differentiation was not observed in vivo. The findings of both tests are discussed in terms of detergent solubilities, penetration of, and adsorption of tissues in vivo as well as the effects of detergents on enzymes.