bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Load-Deformation Behavior of Two-Dimensional Crimped Filaments
Authors: Gupta D.K. , El-Shiekh Aly 
Published: March 2008

A theoretical analysis is presented of the load-elongation behavior of a crimped filament, whose axes lie in a two-dimensional plane. The crimp shapes considered are ideal and very closely related to those produced by some texturing processes. A second order nonlinear differential equation describes the deformed shape of the crimped filament, which is subjected to a terminal load in its axial direction. Numerical solution of the equation uses Maclaurin's series. The analysis describes the deformed shape and the load-elongation behavior of two-dimensional crimps. such as zigzag, gear-tooth, semicircular, and knit-de-knit crimps. The theoretical analysis is verified experimentally by heat setting polyester and nylon 6 monofilaments in zigzag and gear-tooth crimps of different amplitudes and wavelengths. The values obtained from the theoretical analysis have excellent cor relation with the experimental results.
Effect of Single and Double Carding on Comber Noil Removal and Yarn Properties
Authors: Simpson Jack 
Published: March 2008

A cotton was double carded at twice the speed as it was single carded, processed into sliver laps, and combed with identical settings. The double carded laps were also combed at two other settings. The increase in carding speed for double carding improved the fiber parallelization, which reduced the comber noil removal and resulted in a more uniform yarn with less spinning end breakage. The amount of flat strips removed with double was not much greater than that removed with single carding. Since double carding is a good simulation of tandem carding, the study demonstrates the advantages of using tandem carding and faster carding rates for combed ring yarns.
Changes in Concentration in the U.S. Textile Industry
Authors: Dardis R. , Lee Yen-Ching 
Published: March 2008

This paper examines changes in concentration in the U.S. textile industry in recent years and projects future changes using Markov analysis. The top 75 firms, based on assets, are classified according to five size categories, and the total movements of firms between size categories from 1970-1979 are used to generate a transition prob ability matrix. Projections for future years are obtained using the size distribution of firms in 1979 and various powers of the transition probability matrix. While the analysis is confined to the top 75 firms in the textile industry, such firms account for approximately 53% to 60% of the industry assets in the base period. It is likely that changes and, in particular, increases in concentration would be reflected in data for the top 75 firms. The results indicate that concentration is expected to decrease in the U.S. textile industry over the next 20 years, a continuation of a trend from 1970 to 1979. The equilibrium distribution is reached after 150 years, and since the values for the year 2000 and equilibrium are close, the decrease in concentration is projected to occur at a decreasing rate.
Modifying Wear Life of All-Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Raheel Mastura 
Published: March 2008

The modifying effects of caustic soda and liquid ammonia as independent pre treatments as well as a two-step double pretreatment to durable press (DP) finish in cotton broadcloth were investigated. Scanning electron microscopy was used as a technique to study the effects of abrasion on chemically treated cotton broadcloth under various conditions of laboratory abrasion. As a result of Stoll flex abrasion in the dry condition, the chemically treated fabrics exhibited less damage compared to the control fabric; however, in general, numerous spiral cracks and fiber breaks with jagged ends and negligible fibrillation were observed. Stoll flex abrasion in the wet condition produced extensive fiber mashing, bruising, and fibrillation in the control fabric, but the chemically treated fabrics maintained more or less smooth fiber ap pearance, Some peeling of the surface layers, limited fibrillation, thinning of the fibers, and long spiral fiber breaks which were almost parallel to the fiber axis were observed. DP treated fabrics in both dry and wet conditions of abrasion exhibited reduced fibrillation and the broken fiber ends had a blunt appearance. Abrasion due to repeated laundering, on the other hand, produced fewer cotton fiber breaks but extensive peeling of the surface layers and exposure of the fibrillar structure in the form of sheets rather than fibrillar bundles. Durable press finish seemed to be the overriding factor in the reduced fiber and fabric damage observed, compared to the nonresin treated fabrics.
Architectural PTFE-Coated Glass Fabrics—Their Structure and Limitations
Authors: Ansell M.P. , Hill C.A.S. , Allgood C. 
Published: March 2008

PTFE-coated glass fabrics, used as membranes for advanced architectural tension structures, offer advantages over conventional low cost coated fabrics in terms of their chemical stability, mechanical properties, and expected service life. These ma terials have a high shear stiffness, however, and the brittle behavior of glass fibers necessitates careful handling. The structure and performance of several commercial PTFE-coated fabric systems were investigated by scanning electron microscopy, mechanical testing, and weathering in artificial and natural environments. Acoustic emission analysis demonstrated that these flexible coated fabrics respond to stress in a predictable manner similar to rigid composite materials. The susceptibility of these materials to bending and fatigue loads was confirmed in flexure tests. Sintered PTFE coatings contain pinholes and regions of surface rupture around glass sphere filler particles. Exposure of coated fabrics to hot moist environments and to the natural environment, when loaded uniaxially outdoors, results in further surface damage. PTFE coatings are likely to incur progressive surface damage during envi ronmental exposure in architectural membranes, leading to possible damage to the underlying glass fabric.
Mechanisms of Raw Wool Scouring—The Role of the Protein Contaminant Layer
Authors: Anderson C.A. 
Published: March 2008

The mechanisms of grease removal from raw wool by various scouring solutions were studied. The protein contaminant layer (PCL) played a key role and the "classical" mechanism of rolling up of the grease from the fiber was not significant in most scouring solutions. In surfactant solutions, there were four stages in the removal mechanism: (a) an initial swelling of the proteinaceous contaminants; (b) formation of grease globules within, or on, the swollen PCL; (c) removal of the swollen PCL with attached globules; and (d) breaking up of the swollen PCL/grease complex into spherical or irregularly shaped particles in the solution. The mechanism was not affected by desuinting the wool; however, adding small quantities of builders to the surfactant solutions affected the swelling of the PCL, the temperature of globule formation, and the ease of removal of the PCL/grease complex. In concentrated builder solutions, such as those used in the Lo-Flo process, swelling of the PCL was suppressed and the grease formed globules that were displaced free of any observable PCL. Several previously anomalous situations in wool scouring related technologies are briefly discussed on the basis of the observed mechanisms.
Scavengers and pH Control in Aftertreatments for Reducing Formaldehyde Release from Durable Press Cottons1
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Daigle Donald J. 
Published: March 2008

Recent studies from this Center have demonstrated the influence of the pH of washing and of application of buffered solutions on the amount of formaldehyde released from finished fabrics in the standard AATCC sealed jar test. This work has been extended to include investigation of the effect of aftertreatments, and the in terrelated influence of pH, on formaldehyde release from durable press cottons. In cluded in the study were application of aftertreatments from solutions of salts, acids, and bases that produce various pH levels; formaldehyde scavenger agents; and scavenger agents in conjunction with pH control. Also, aftertreatments with ammonium hy droxide and ammonium salts were explored for condensing ammonia with free form aldehyde in the finish to give hexamethylenetetramine and thus reduce formaldehyde release. Fabrics were investigated that had been finished with dimethylol dihydroxyeth yleneurea, dimethylol ethyleneurea, and dimethylol isopropyl carbamate. Effectiveness of aftertreatments and scavenger applications for controlling formaldehyde release varied as a function of pH and the chemical nature of the finish. Depending on the particular finish, aftertreatments yielded formaldehyde release values ranging from considerably below that of the unwashed, finished fabric to several times that value.
Force-Extension Behavior of Helically Wrapped Elastic Core Yarns
Authors: Abbott G.M. 
Published: March 2008

The force-extension behavior of a helically wrapped rubber-like core up to the point of wrap failure has been theoretically analyzed. In addition to the forces required to extend the wrap and core, there is a significant Poisson effect because the wrap applies a radial pressure to the core, particularly at higher helix angles. Agreement between theory and experiment for gum-rubber cores closed butt wrapped with paper tapes was satisfactory, except at high strains where an increasing proportion of the core was no longer covered by the wrap and where the frictional contribution of wrap/core slippage became significant.
Dynamic Sorption of Semistable Foams by Fabrics
Authors: Bryant George M. 
Published: March 2008

Foam is an effective medium for chemical treatment of fabrics at low wet pickup, due to the expanded volume and large internal surface area of the foam bubbles. For a high speed continuous process combining foam application and dissipation steps, foam of limited stability, with high shear susceptibility and dynamic sorption rate is needed. Such semistable foams require delivery of uniformly aged foam to the fabric under positive hydrostatic pressure and precise control of the foam-fabric contact time to achieve uniform distribution in the substrate. For these reasons, semistable foams cannot be applied uniformly by conventional coating methods using a doctor blade and foam bank of variable dimensions. Conversely, stable foams applied by coating methods lack the rapid dynamic sorption rate needed for high speed single- step application. A mechanism of high speed foam application is proposed, whereby the breaking foam is distributed through the fabric via yam interstices under hydrostatic pressure, and the broken foam liquor wets the interfiber pores driven by interfacial forces. Wetting rates are calculated using typical FFT process operating conditions and cotton fabric geometric parameter estimates. The results indicate that through-fabric wet- out is completed during the interval when the fabric is over the applicator slot. The wetting of interfiber pores is predicted to be slower than through-fabric wetting, but rapid enough to be completed at the applicator. The comparatively rapid wetting rates of yam and fiber surfaces with respect to fiber swelling rates is postulated to make possible the uniform semistable foam application of finishing chemicals to hydrophilic fiber substrates at pickup levels substantially below their moisture ab sorption capacity.
Chemical and Physical Properties of Cotton Modified by N-Methylol Agents
Authors: Vail Sidney L. 
Published: March 2008

Reaction mechanisms for conventional chemical finishing treatments for cotton and hydrolysis of these finishes involving acetals, aldehydes, or N-methylol finishing agents are similar in that the rate-determining step involves the formation of a res onance-stabilized intermediate ion. A study of these mechanisms suggests that in acetal or aldehyde type reactions, cellulose by virtue of its chemical structure can have an influence, often predictable, on reaction paths and rates. On the basis of the concepts developed, the study suggests that acetal crosslinking agents in an optimized, conventional pad-dry-cure process must primarily involve either reactive acetals that act as donors of an appropriate aldehyde, e.g., formaldehyde, or less reactive acetals that must be applied under relatively strong reaction conditions. A similar prediction is made concerning crosslinking of cellulose with aldehydes; however, each aldehyde must be considered on its own because of the many factors involved. The theory behind these predictions is examined in detail and the importance of the chemical structure of the reactant and intermediates is stressed.
Stretch Mercerization of Cotton Fibers
Authors: Kim Y.K. , Tae Jin Kang  , Seyam A.M. , El-Shiekh Aly 
Published: March 2008

In this investigation three techniques were developed by which cotton fibers in roving form were mercerized and stretched to their original length and then neutralized in the stretched configuration. The effectiveness of the three stretching systems was evaluated by testing the processed fibers and yams. The mechanical properties of the yarns made from stretch mercerized rovings were compared with those of yarns made of untreated fibers and slack mercerized fibers. Their properties were also compared with the properties of yams that were package mercerized and single strand stretch mercerized. The results show that a series of closely set rollers, gradually increasing in diameter from back to front, provide a reasonable device for stretching the individual fibers during mercerization. The yam produced from rovings with this technique shows superior properties over those of other methods studied in this investigation. Yarns made of stretch mercerized roving will have a higher strength retention after durable press treatment.
Mechanisms of Transient Moisture Transport Between Fabrics
Authors: Adler Martha Molly , Walsh William K. 
Published: March 2008

A technique was developed to study moisture transport and to determine the mechanism by which moisture is transported between fabrics under transient conditions at low moisture contents. A variety of fabrics were tested and experiments were performed at various levels of moisture content from 3% to over 100% above regain.Vapor diffusion was the major mechanism of moisture transport between two layers of fabric at low moisture levels for all fabrics. Wicking did not begin until the moisture content was high, more than 30% above regain for the woven samples. The knitted samples did not wick at all. Hydrophilic finished polyester samples had markedly improved transport rates at high moisture contents but showed no improvements at low levels of moisture where vapor diffusion prevails.Moisture transport appears to be closely related to comfort. At low moisture levels, fabrics rated as comfortable transported more moisture than fabrics rated as uncom fortable. Polyester fabric to which a hydrophilic finish was applied to improve moisture transport by wicking was judged similar in comfort to the unfinished polyester. Both transport little moisture at low levels of moisture content, perhaps because at low levels of moisture content, wicking cannot occur, since there is an insufficient amount of moisture to fill the capillaries to permit wicking.
Improved Comfort Polyester
Authors: Demartino R.N. , Yoon H.N. , Buckley A. , Evins C.V. , Averell R.B. , Jackson W.W. , Schultz D.C. , Becker C.L. , Booker H.E. , Hollies N.R.S. 
Published: March 2008

A series of polyester, cotton, and polyester/cotton blends and a few miscellaneous types were evaluated in a number of subjective wearer trials by the Gillette Research Institute. The modifications, which were shown most substantially to improve the comfort of polyester, included certain engineering modifications, cross-section variations, and pressure jet treatments. Some modification combinations increased the perceived comfort level of polyesters to a point equal to or exceeding that of a 50/50 PET/ cotton blend and close to all cotton.
Tinctorial Efficacy of Dyes in Polyester Fibers
Authors: Kissa Erik 
Published: March 2008

Tinctorial efficacy of a dye, at any given concentration, is defined as the perceptual color intensity per unit dye concentration (g/m2) in the fabric. Color intensity is expressed by the Kubelka-Munk ΔK/S values calculated from reflectances measured as lightness-darkness with a green tristimulus filter. A plot of ΔK/S versus dye con centration in the fabric is linear on logarithmic scales and yields two parameters that describe the tinctorial efficacy of the dyeing process. The tinctorial efficacy of dyes in polyester fabric is shown to depend on dyeing conditions. Padding with an aqueous dye dispersion containing a migration inhibitor produces a higher tinctorial efficacy than padding with a solution of the dye in a volatile solvent. The tinctorial efficacy depends also on the dye fixation conditions and increases in the following order: heating in tetrachloroethylene vapor at 160°C for 120 seconds << immersion in an aqueous surfactant solution at 130°C for 60 minutes ≤ heating in air at 213°C for 90 seconds. A lower tinctorial efficacy of dyes in continuous solvent dyeing in tetrachloroethylene is related to microscopically uneven dye distribution in fibers. The tinctorial efficacy increases when a fabric, padded with a dye solution and dried, is immersed in a hot aqueous surfactant solution to redistribute the dye before it diffuses into the fibers.
Effect of Hydroquinone on Light-Induced Degradation of Nylon 6 Dyed with SolubilizedVat Dyes
Authors: Shah C.D. , Jain D.K. 
Published: March 2008

Photostability of nylon 6 has been studied in the presence of four solubilized vat dyes in the lightfastness tester with an MBTF lamp. Two of the four dyes exhibit catalytic activity to enhance the actinic degradation of nylon 6, whereas the other two dyes are photochemically inactive and confer photoprotective action to the fibers. Photochemically inactive dyes possess better lightfastness compared to active dyes.Light-induced degradation of nylon 6 in the presence of solubilized vat dyes is retarded by an aftertreatment with hydroquinone because of the anti-oxidant action of hydroquinone, and not because of ultraviolet absorption by this aftertreatment agent.
Effect of Modified Rinsing Conditions on the Whiteness of Laboratory Scoured Wool
Authors: Bateup B.O. 
Published: March 2008

The effect of detergent distribution and the influence of various additives to the penultimate rinse bowl on the whiteness of laboratory scouted wool was investigated. With different distributions of scouring reagents (nonionic detergent plus alkali) between bowls 1 to 3 and a rinse in bowl 4, the whitest samples of both high yielding and low yielding merino fleece wools were obtained with the following bowl compositions: bowl 1, a large amount of detergent plus alkali; bowl 2, rinse; bowl 3, a small amount of detergent plus alkali; bowl 4, rinse. The lowest whiteness resulted when all the detergent was added to the first bowl. Intermediate whitenesses were obtained when a small amount of detergent plus alkali was followed by a large amount in the later bowls. In a more conventional scouring system with constant scouring conditions in bowls 1 and 2, the addition of various builders to bowl 3 increased the whiteness in the order sodium carbonate < trisodium citrate < trisodium ethylenediamine tetraacetate (EDTA-3) < trisodium nitrilotriacetate. Analyses of the level of residual contaminantes gave a statistically significant negative linear correlation between whiteness and residual iron content for both high and low yielding wool. For the low yielding wool, statistically significant correlations aiso existed between whiteness and residual solvent extractables, residual calcium, and ash content. The improved whiteness obtained using EDTA-3 compared with no additive was also observed initially in simulated continuous scouring, but the overall whiteness decreased rapidly thereafter because of the rapid build-up of contaminants in the liquor.
Magnesium Nitrate, A Neglected Catalyst for Producing Durable Press Fabrics with Low Formaldehyde Release
Authors: Reeves Wilson A. , Allgood Ann C. 
Published: March 2008

Magnesium nitrate was compared to magnesium chloride for curing an unmeth ylated DMDHEU for the production of durable press fabrics under mild cure conditions with a minimum of formaldehyde release. The catalysts were used alone, with propanediol, and with the diol plus aluminum dichlorhydroxide. A wide range of catalyst concentrations and curing conditions were used in the study. Magnesium nitrate produced fabrics with substantially less formaldehyde release and higher wrinkle recovery values than magnesium chloride did when the catalysts were used alone or with the diol plus the aluminum salt, and curing conditions were mild with respect to catalyst concentration, cure time, and cure temperature.
Effect of Synthappret BAP on the Wrinkle Recovery of Uncrosslinked and Crosslinked Cotton
Authors: Rippon J.A. 
Published: March 2008

The dry and wet wrinkle recovery angles of a cotton fabric are increased by treatment with the carbamoyl sulphonate-terminated poly(ether) urethane, Synthap pret BAP. This product cures best under alkaline conditions, but in the presence of an organometallic catalyst, it can also be cured under the acid conditions used to crosslink cotton with dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea (DMDHEU). Synthappret BAP improves wrinkle recovery by decreasing the frictional component of wrinkling, probably through the formation of interfiber and interyam bonds. This contrasts with DMDHEU, which acts largely by changing the viscoelastic properties of the fibers. When the treatments are done separately, the improvements obtained with the elastomer and fiber crosslinker are additive for both dry and wet wrinkle recovery. Even better results are obtained however, when the treatment with Synthappret BAP, DMDHEU, and magnesium chloride catalyst is done from a single bath, provided a nonionic surfactant is present. The surfactant is necessary to prevent precipitation of the magnesium salt of Synthappret BAP. The practical significance of these results is that fabrics with dry and wet wrinkle recovery angles similar to those produced by treatment with a high level of DMDHEU alone can be produced by a pad-dry-cure method, using low concentra tions of Synthappret BAP (<1.0% solids omf) plus DMDHEU (1-2% solids omf). These fabrics have better abrasion resistance and tear and tensile strengths than fabrics treated solely with a high level of the crosslinker.
Stability of a Borax-Based Smolder Retardant Finish for Cotton Upholstery Fabrics
Authors: Cheek L. , Wilcock A. , Olsen N. 
Published: March 2008

The stability of a borax/phosphoric acid/resin smolder retardant on cotton fabric following continuous exposure to varying degrees of temperature and relative humidity for up to 100 days was examined. Specimens were assessed for boric acid active ingredient by chemical analysis, for smolder resistance by the UFAC procedure, and for morphologic changes by scanning electron microscopy. Prior to exposure of the specimens, the finish formed a non-uniform waxy film with short protrusions covering the superficial fibers. During exposure to low temperature and relative humidity for 100 days, there was a small loss of boric acid with no accompanying loss of smolder resistance or change in microscopic appearance. The more severe conditions of temperature and relative humidity led to greater boric acid losses. With one exception, the smolder resistance of all specimens was classified as UFAC class I (safe for use over polyurethane foam substrates). The original waxy film encapsulating the fibers of the finished specimens became lobular and crystalline during exposure to the more severe environmental conditions.