bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Colour extension properties of individual pigments and effects on shades of foundations in cake form
Authors: TSUGITA AKIRA , FUKISHIMA TAKASHI , YONEYA TOHRU , INISHIJIMA YASUSH 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe mechanism of colour change during the pigment dispersion process and during powder application to the skin surface was studied by examining the colour extension properties of Yellow. Red, and Black iron oxides in white powder bases. A new measure for the evaluation of the degree of colour extension was devised. This measure corresponded well with human visual sensation, and was found to be useful for comparing the rates of colour extension of pigments. The rate of colour extension of pigments was found to vary in the order: Yellowacicular Redgranular RedBlack. This result explains colour darkening and the change towards reddish tones during the pigment dispersion process, because Yellow extends fully in the early stage of the process but Red, especially in granular form, and Black continue to extend even in the later stage. Acicular Red iron oxide is more favourably employed than the granular form to attain sufficient colour extension of foundations with lower energy expenditure, and to decrease the discrepancy between the cake colour and the colour of applied powder.Le développement des oxydes de fer et effet sur les nuances des fonds de teint compacts
Activité et modalités d'action de la sébathionine (D.C.I.) sur la séborrhée
Authors: OUSTRIN JEAN , ROMECKI ALAIN 
Published: May 2007

RésuméL'activité antiséborrhéique de la sébathionine a étéétudiée sur la glande costovertébrale de hamster mâle castré et supplémenté en testostérone. Le test utilisé est l'incorporation de précurseurs marqués de la synthése lipidique.Le glucose comme l'acétate de sodium voient leur vitesse d'incorporation diminuer sous l'influence de la sébathionine. L'emploi d'un faux précurseur: le déoxyglucose montre que le produit agit de façon non spécifique sur la synthése lipidique.Cependant, au niveau de la synthése des acides gras, on peut préciser que l'action se situe au niveau des mécanismes d'allongement des chaines carbonées et non au niveau des processus de désaturation.Activity and mechanism of sebathionine (D.C.I.) on sebum formation
An in vivo assessment of the biomechanical properties of human skin modifications under the influence of cosmetic products
Authors: AUBERT L. , ANTHOINE P. , RIGAL J. DE , LEVEQUE J. L. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA new device using a torsional technique has been developed to record the biomechanical properties of the skin.After determination of the optimal experimental conditions, effects of cosmetic products on the stratum corneum biomechanical properties are described.
Topical and bioavailability of benzoyl peroxide
Authors: SAHUT A. , AIACHE S. , ANDERMANN G. , BURLET G. DG , AIACHE J.‐M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisBenzoyl peroxide has been used for over 20 years to treat youthful acne. The aim of this study is to determine its release rate from the vehicle that allows it to reach and treat the skin (topical availability) and its ability to pass through the skin and reach the general circulation (bioavailability), in order to bring about good topical availability, linked to bioavailability or, an ‘abioavailability'.Three preparations containing 10% of benzoyl peroxide were administered to the back of shaven New Zealand rabbits. At day 0, day 5, day 12, day 19, day 26 and day 33, the topical effects were measured by cutaneous temperature, degree of erythema and the benzoic acid plasma record card, which shows blood sample results of the metabolism of the drug.The results obtained show that the topical availability of benzoyl peroxide coincides with a decrease in cutaneous temperature, after application in various dosage forms, in spite of the appearance of a marked erythema.The bioavailability is demonstrated by plasma benzoic acid evaluation. Before administration, benzoic acid levels are low but increase half an hour after administration, to reach a maximal level at 3 h.Benzoyl peroxide metabolizes quickly and does not seem to be able to cross the skin without being changed. Disponibilité topique et biodisponibilité du péroxyde de benzoyl*
Substantivity to hair and skin of 125l‐labelled collagen hydrolysates under application simulating conditions
Authors: TUROWSKI A. , ADELMANN‐GRILL B. C. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisSubstantivity of various 125I‐labelled collagen hydrolysates to virgin or bleached and dyed European hair or human callus was tested under conditions which simulated actual application of such hydrolysates in shampoos or foam baths. Factors which most strongly influence protein substantivity were identified. The molecular properties of the hydrolysate are the most important factor. The hydrolysate which adsorbed best had the lowest overall isoelectric point, the highest pH in solution and the largest content of high molecular weight peptides. The extent of adsorption was also a function of concentration of protein, of the duration of application and of the nature of the components of the formulation. Thus, the combination of shampoo and hydrolysate can be adjusted so that a desired substantivity is attained.
Absorption of materials by or through the living skin
Authors: HADGRAFT J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe skin comes into contact with a large range of materials either deliberately or inadvertently. It should be possible to predict the exact transport rates of these materials through the skin as a function of the physicochemical properties of the different compounds. With this sort of knowledge it is possible to predict the exact disposition of compounds and use this in the formulation of new products both in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic field. The information will also be useful from the standpoint of skin toxicology and environmental health. In order to be able to predict this complex process it is necessary to split the overall transport into different component parts. This article will identify these components and provide illustrations. The major areas discussed will be barrier function of the skin, the release properties of different topical formulations and how these may be monitored. Novel means of enhancing the penetration of drugs will be discussed and how some additives that are incorporated into formulations will perhaps alter the barrier function of skin. A mathematical model describing skin penetration has been developed and its use in predicting blood levels will be described. This model has been tested both in animal experiments and in limited human studies and its relevance to these situations will be highlighted.Absorption cutanée et transcutanée in vivo
Evaluation of anti‐wrinkle effects on humans
Authors: CORCUFF P. , CHATENAY F. , BRUN A. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisImage analysis provides a practical method for studying the cutaneous relief and better understanding of the formation of wrinkles during ageing and their regression induced by an anti‐wrinkle product. Quantimet 900° allows a fully automated analysis of 40 replicas of skin surface per cycle of 6 h. The basic principle consists of measuring shadows, generated by incident lighting at the surface of Silflo replicas. Incident light of 38° was selected for analysing crow's feet wrinkles and 26° for the microrelief when crow's feet were absent (slight furrows less than 50 μ‐m). The following parameters were recorded: the number of wrinkles, their mean depth, and the coefficient of developed skin surface (CDSS).An O/W emulsion containing 30% biological ingredients was applied daily on the face of 140 female subjects, aged from 20 to 57 years, during 4 weeks. Replicas were made before the first application (t0) and 24 h after the last one (t0). Data obtained with the image analysis method showed a decrease in number and depth of crow's feet from t0, to t4 of 16% and a sharp decrease of the CDSS (30%). No modification of the microrelief was observed. These results were confirmed by measuring forehead casts with the Anaglyphographc® apparatus (a profilometric method) on the same subjects: a decrease of 40% in number and 23% in depth were recorded for the forehead wrinkles, with no modification of the microrelief.Both image analysis and profilometry measured the effects provoked by this treatment. The CDSS, which might measure the reservoir of extensibility of the surface of the skin, should be the best parameter to demonstrate the efficiency of anti‐wrinkle products.Evaluation des effets anti‐rides chez I'homme
Use of microemulsions as vehicles for nucleophilic reagents in cosmetic formulations
Authors: PARRA J. L. , GARCÍA DOMÍNGUEZ J. J. , COMELLES F. , SÄNCHEZ J. , SOLANS C. , PELEJERO C. , BALAGUER F. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe modifications of chemical reactivity induced in the human hair during its treatment with oxidative (H2O2) or reductive (HSO3Na) agents via a micellar or a microemulsion system have been investigated. For this purpose, phase diagrams of micellar solutions and microcmulsions with H2O2 or NaSO3H have been made in order to find out the corresponding areas of solubility. The properties of conductivity, surface tension and light scattering of various monophasic compositions as a function of their water content, have been studied.As a result of the chemical reactivity data of human hair obtained through the reaction of H2O2 or HSO3Na via a micellar or a microemulsion system, it appears reasonable to predict a more effective reaction of such agents with cystine residues existing in keratinic substrates, particularly when they are applied via a microemulsion. The decrease of the water content of the compositions considered, increases chemical reactivity of the keratinic proteins favouring the formation of cysteine and of cysteic acid in the reductive or oxidative treatments respectively.
The dissolution rate of zinc pyrithione
Authors: DAVIES T. W. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA method of measuring and correlating the rate at which zinc pyrithione dissolves during a shampoo is described. The rise in zinc concentration of a solution in a stirred vessel following the introduction of a dose of zine pyrithione suspension was measured as a function of time using atomic absorption spectrophotometry. An analysis of the mass transfer processes occurring during the dissolution of a suspended solid in a stirred vessel was used to correlate the concentration‐time measurements. The analysis allows a calculation of the characteristic solution time, the mass transfer coefficient and the diffusion coefficient for the system. In this way the effect of changing shampoo formulation can be systematically studied.Le taux de dissolution de zinc pyrithione.
Photostability of Cosmetic Materials
Authors: SUGDEN J. K. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe basic principles of photochemistry and photochemical reactions applicable to the topic are briefly reviewed. A more detailed survey of the photochemical reactions of raw materials used in the formulation of cosmetics is treated, according to the principal chemical classification of the material. In each group the photochemical reactions of the substance are reported with the more apparent implications for the cosmetic industry highlighted. The effects of photochemical catalysts are discussed, including the sources of impurities which can catalyse photochemical spoilage of cosmetic products. The methods of retarding photochemical degradation are appraised, including precautions which could be adopted in manufacturing processes and the use of additives collectively known as antioxidants.La stabilite a la lumiere des produits cosmetiques
Application of emulsion theory to complex and real systems
Authors: ECCLESTON G. M. , FLORENCE A. T. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisTheories of emulsion stability are discussed in relation to dilute, concentrated and semisolid emulsions. It is shown that whilst a unified theory cannot be applied quantitatively to emulsion systems, a better understanding of the various mechanisms of stabilization and breakdown is emerging. Established concepts, eg, the HLB concept, are now given a less empirical gloss.The application of colloid stability theory, even to very dilute emulsions, is difficult. This is because of the polydispersity of the systems and because surfactant and stabilizers may be free to move on the globule surfaces, as well as dissolve in the dispersed or continuous phases. Further difficulties arise because flocculation is not necessarily a sign of emulsion instability in the practical sense, as creamed or flocculated emulsions often may be redispersed by shaking. Crucial to emulsion stability is the prevention of coalescence, and this is governed by the nature of the adsorbed emulsifier film.The flocculation and coalescence that can be understood in dilute emulsions from the DVLO theory and the metastability of thin films against rupture do not address themselves to flocculation and coalescence in concentrated, structured or semi‐solid emulsions. These may possess surfactant multilayers rather than monolayers at the oil/water interfaces and the bulk phases are frequently structured. Some emulsions invert at critical temperatures. In semi‐solid emulsions, stability is controlled by the phase behaviour of the emulsifier components, rather than by the forces governing stability in dilute colloids and thin films. Stability is usually considered to be product stability during storage. The stability of an emulsion in use, eg, during and after application to the skin, is a topic of equal importance but little documented. This related problem is also discussed. Application de la theorie des emulsions aux systemes complexes et reels On discute les théories de la stabilité des émsions diluées. concentrées et semi solides. Bien qu'une théorie unique ne puisse s'appliquer de façon quantitative á tous les systemes d'emulsions, il ne s'en dégage pas moins une meilleure compréhension des mécanismes de stabilisation et de rupture. Les concepts établis, tels que la valeur HLB apparaîssent maintenant moins empirique.L'application de la théorie de la stabilité des colloïdes est difficile même pour les émulsions diluées. Cela est dûá la diversité des systèmes et au fait que les surfactifs et les agents de stabilisation sont libres de se mouvoir sur la surface des globules comme de se dissoudre dans les phases dispersée et continue.Des difficultés supplémentaires surviennent du fait que la floculation n'est pas obligatoirement synonyme de l'instabilité de l'émulsion et que des émulsions eremeuses ou floculées peuvent souvent être redispersées par agitation. Le paramétre important pour la stabilité des émulsions est la prévention de la coalescence ce qui est liéà la nature du film d'émulsif adsorbé.
Sun protection factors
Authors: STOCKDALE M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe absorption of ultraviolet light by a film of sunscreen product on the surface of the skin is considered from a theoretical standpoint. It is apparent that Beer‐Lambert's Law would predict protection factors in excess of the actual factors by many orders of magnitude. The possible reasons for this are discussed in detail, and the relevance of it to in vitro and in vivo measurements of protection factors, and also the in‐use situation, are discussed. The implications for formulators of sunscreen products are also discussed.The methods of measuring protection factors are reviewed. These include instrumental methods, based on both solutions and thin films, model systems, animal methods and human volunteer studies. The current situation with respect to proposed standard methods for measuring sun protection factors, particularly the American FDA method and the German DIN method, is reviewed.
Percutaneous absorption of urea
Authors: ACKERMANN CHRISITA , FLYNN GORDON L. , WYK CHRIS J. VAN 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe effect of several variables on the in vitro permeation of urea through hairless mouse skin has been studied in order to determine the causes of an increasing permeability phenomenon found in studies with a range of hydrophilic compounds.The permeation of urea increased for a period of approximately 100 h after which a steady state permeation pattern was observed for approximately 25 h. Urea did not effect its own permeation in concentrations between 0.01 M and 1.67 M, and the same pattern of increasing permeation was followed in the presence of (N‐morpholine)propanesulphonic acid and tris(hydroxyme)amino‐methane buffers, as in the presence of normal saline. Urea did not affect the permeation of tritiated water. Methanol and water exhibited the same pattern of increasing permeation as urea.The continuously increasing permeation rate of urea up to 100 h is believed to be due to penetration and extensive association of water with the components of the stratum corneum, altering the ultra‐structure of the stratum corneum and leading to the formation of large and extensive hydrophilic diffusion channels which do not exist in fresh, untreated skin. These presumed channels open the stratum corneum to facile permeation of highly polar substances such as urea. The physical events leading up to the ultra structural changes within the tissue at the microscopic level remain obscure and are the subject of ongoing research.L'absorption percutanée de l'urée
Mutagenicity evaluation of nitroanilines and nitroaminophenols in Salmonella typhimurium
Authors: SHAHIN MAJDI M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisIn our studies of structure‐activity relationships, three nitroanilines and nine nitroaminophenols were tested for their ability to induce mutations in Salmonella typhimurium strains TA1535, TA100, TA1537, TA1538 and TA98. The compounds m‐nitroaniline, 4‐nitro‐2‐aminophenol, and 3‐nitro‐6‐aminophenol were active in two or more of these strains. The compounds o‐nitroaniline, 2‐nitro‐3‐aminophenol, 3‐nitro‐4‐aminophenol, 4‐nitro‐3‐aminophenol, 3‐nitro‐2‐aminophenol, 2‐nitro‐6‐aminophenol, 2‐nitro‐4‐aminophenol and 2‐nitro‐5‐aminophenol were inactive, both in the presence and in the absence of S9 mix. The compound p‐nitroaniline was also inactive in all tests with the possible exception of that in strain TA98 in the presence of S9 mix, where it was either very weakly mutagenic or non‐mutagenic. The mutagenic activity or inactivity of these compounds appears to be dependent on the positions of the amino, nitro, and hydroxy groups in their chemical structures.Etude en mutagénèse des nitroanilines et nitroaminophénols sur Salmonella typhimurium.
Fundamentals of stability testing
Authors: CANNELL JOHN S. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe principles on which stability tests are based are reviewed. The need to differentiate between product stability and product‐container compatibility is emphasized. Recognition of this distinction is fundamental to the efficient organisation and execution of stability tests.Attention is also drawn to the desirability of having for every product a release specification with which it must comply when manufactured and a broader check specification with which it must comply throughout its shelf‐life.Test methods and the interpretation of the data accrued throughout a test are also discussed.It is concluded that stability tests should not be conducted in accordance with a standardized routine pattern but that the objectives of each test should be defined and the test designed to achieve those objectives in the most efficient way.Les regles fondamentales des essais de stabilite
The stumptailed macaque as a model for baldness: effects of minoxidil
Authors: UNO HIDEO 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisTopical application of minoxidil in bald scalps of stumptailed macaques successfully induced regrowth of terminal hairs. The rate and degree of hair growth by minoxidil are much greater in the early stage of baldness in adolescent and young adults. Minoxidil also prevented the development of baldness when applied on non‐bald scalps of peri‐adolescent animals. Morphometric analysis of hair follicles (folliculograms) has brought a new aspect in observing cyclic dynamics and growth (transformation) of hair follicles. Using this analytic method and autoradiographic observation of DNA synthesis of hair follicles, the action of minoxidil appears to be a potent mitotic stimulator of the follicular as well as peri‐follicular germinal (or reserve) cells, thus inducing an enlargement of vellus follicles through the process of cyclic growth and maintaining anagen follicles in the growing phases. Most importantly, minoxidil has no influence in epidermal keratinocytes, sebaceous glands and other dermal components. During almost 3 years of consecutive treatment, the animals showed no detectable local or systemic side effects when examined by laboratory tests of blood cells, chemistry, steroid hormones, measurement of blood pressure and EKG test. Le macaque a queue courte: exemple de calvitie
Distribution and dissociation of benzoyl peroxide in cutaneous tissue after application on skin in the hairless rat
Authors: WEPIERRE J. , CORROLLER M. , DIDRY J. R. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe distribution and dissociation of 14C‐benzoyl‐peroxide were studied in the skin of hairless rats after the application of a 10% gel during 3, 8 and 24 h. The distribution was appraised in the stripped horny layer and in the epidermis, and the dermis cut in slices parallel to the cutaneous surface. The conversion of benzoyl peroxide (b.p.) to benzoic acid (b.a.) was investigated from extracts of these different cutaneous layers by thin layer chromatography (TLC). The greatest amount of penetrating b.p. (9 to 14% of the applied dose) was found in the horny layer, which forms a reservoir and where biotransformations were reduced. Small quantities of b.p. diffused toward the epidermis down to the deeper dermis, where b.a. represented 74% of the radioactivity. Distribution gradients of the radioactivity and conversion rates to b.a. were stable between 3 and 24 h of application in all parts of the skin. This result showed that diffusion of b.p. from the vehicle was in balance with the dissociation processes and the blood resorption as b.a., throughout the experiment. Distribution et dissociation du peroxyde de benzoyle dans le tissu cutané aprés applicationsur la peau chez le rat sans poils
A study of correlations between the release of drugs from petrolatum‐based gels containing nonionic surfactants and some physical and physico‐chemical characteristics of the gel systems
Authors: COLO G. DI , NANNIPIERI E. , SERAFINI M. F. , VITALE D. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe in vitro release of benzocaine and 2‐ethyIhexyl p‐di‐methylaminobenzoate (EH‐PABA) from petrolatum‐based gels either containing two nonionic surfactants, or not, was compared with some physical and/or physico‐chemical characteristics of the drugs, the gels and the drug‐gel systems. The surfactants had no effect on the release of EH‐PABA, the less polar drug, whereas they decreased the release of benzocaine. Moreover, the release data show a complex dependence of diffusive properties of ben‐zocaine on drug and surfactant concentration. Benzocaine appears to form mixed micelles with each of the two surfactants and/or undergoes self‐aggregation phenomena within surfactant micelles. The results indicate that drug diffusion is influenced by gel porosity, drug molecular size and polarity and molecular interactions. Ětude des corrélations entre la disponibilité des medicaments dans les gels a base de vaseline contenant des surfactifs non ioniques et quelques propriétés physiques et physicochimiques des gels