bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Evaluation expérimentale de l'hydratation et du pouvoir occlusif in vivo et in vitro d'excipients lipophiles et de leurs émulsions phase huile continue
Authors: MARTI‐MESTRES G. , PASSET J. , MAILLOLS H. , SAM V. VAN , GUILHOU J.J. , MESTRES J.P. , GUILLOT B. 
Published: May 2007

RésuméUne étude a été réalisée sur trois émulsions eau dans huile et leurs phases grasses respectives, vaseline, huile de paraffine et huile d'amande douce, en vue de comparer leurs propriétés occlusives et par voie de conséquence leur influence sur l'hydratation cutanée. Une méthode in vitro utilisant des cellules de type ‘Patel’a permis dans un premier temps de classer les différentes émulsions et leurs phases grasses‐en fonction de leur perméabilitéà la vapeur d'eau, ce qui conduit par ordre croissant de degré d'occlusion à: huile d'amande douce, huile de paraffine et vaseline. Pour les études in vivo chez l'homme, l'influence de l'application des mêmes substances sur la perte insensible d'eau (PIE) et l'hydratation cutanée a été mesurée avec un évaporimètre et un cornéomètre. Les différentes phases grasses, utilisées pures, augmentent l'hydratation par effet occlusif, ce phénomène étant objectivé par les mesures de PIE. Par contre pour les émulsions correspondantes, il semblerait que l'augmentation de l'hydratation ne fasse pas intervenir de mécanisme occlusif.
Synthesis of quaternary ammonium bromides of 5‐[4‐(ω‐dialkylaminoalkoxy)phenyl‐methylene]‐1, 3, 3‐trimethyl‐2‐oxabicyclo [2.2.2]octan‐6‐ones as potential UV sunscreens
Authors: MARIANI E. , SCHENONE P. , BARGAGNA A. , LONGOBARDI M. , DORATO S. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisMaterials and methods for the synthesis of eight quaternary ammonium bromides of 5‐[4‐(ω‐dialkylaminoalkoxy)phenylmethylene]‐1,3,‐trimethyl‐2‐oxabicyclo[2.2.2]octan‐6‐ones are illustrated. They were routinely prepared starting from cineole aminoethers by reaction with primary alkyl bromides and their physico‐chemical data are reported. These substances have been tested for UV filtering and/or microbiological activity. The substances have their UV absorption maxima at 315–322 nm. Tests on antimicrobial activity were performed using benzalkonium chloride as reference standard. All quaternary ammonium bromides were totally inactive against Escherichia coli (Gram —) and partially active on Staphylococcus aureus (Gram +). These preliminary findings seem to indicate that these new quaternary ammonium bromides could be considered as potential UV sunscreens.
Measurement of diffusional parameters in membranes using ATR‐FTIR spectroscopy
Authors: WATKINSON A.C. , HADGRAFT J. , WALTERS K.A. , BRAIN K.R. 
Published: May 2007

SummaryThe use of ATR‐FTIR spectroscopy for the assessment of synthetic and biological membrane permeability is described. Measurement of the diffusion coefficient of acetonitrile in a polydimethylsiloxane membrane showed the method to be of reasonable reproducibility. It has been demonstrated that the concurrent measurement of both solvent and solute permeability is feasible and that the deconvolution of the diffusion and partition coefficients of these species is theoretically possible. Where the diffusing species changed the nature of the membrane a correcting normalization routine was performed by assessing the state of the membrane as a function of time. The use of this method for the routine investigation of membrane permeation phenomena has great potential for the future.
Fruit acid extracts, a fresh approach to skin renewal
Authors: SCHOLZ D. , BROOKS G.J. , PARISH D.F. , BURMEISTER F. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisAlpha‐hydroxy acids are a common class of naturally occurring chemicals that have become increasingly popular for cosmetic use. Currently alpha‐hydroxy acids from both natural and synthetic sources are being used in skincare products. From lactic acid to complex natural blends, several different approaches have been adopted for the use of alpha‐hydroxy acids. This paper reviews the history of alpha‐hydroxy acids use in cosmetics and gives new data showing the increased rate of cell renewal by topical application.
Evaluation of predictable irritative power of surfactant mixtures by human fibroblast culture and its correlation to physico‐chemical parameters
Authors: RIGANO L. , CAVALLETTI T. , BENETTI S. , TRANIELLO S. 
Published: May 2007

SummaryThe predictable toxic effects of some surfactants, their blends and some preserving agents on human fibroblast cultures were investigated with in vitro tests, with the aim of finding a possible correlation between the biologic evaluations and some physical characteristics of detergent solutions. Lactate dehydrogenase release into the medium was used as a marker of the plasma membrane integrity, while the amount of 3H‐radiolabelled proteins in the fibroblasts was measured in order to assess the cell biosynthetic machinery function. Disodium‐alkyl‐semi‐sulphosuccinate induced membrane damage in the lactate dehydrogenase test and decreased the protein synthesis, with an EC 50 around 1mm, while sodium lauryl ether sulphate had an EC 50 at about 100 μm, indicating that this compound is ten‐fold more toxic, when measured by this method. An ethoxylated glyceride, on the contrary, was completely harmless on the plasma membrane and, surprisingly, activated fibroblast protein synthesis in a dose‐response way up to two‐fold. Mixtures of the three surfactants evidenced the protective effect of the non‐ionic against the cellular functionality damage. Parabens do not influence this type of evaluation, while some influence was shown by the formaldehyde releaser 2‐bromo‐2‐nitro‐propandiol at the highest concentration. The comparison between critical micellar concentration measures of the different surfactants and their in vitro detected irritative power shows, for the two anionics, that in vitro toxicity is proportionally bound to the amount of micelles even if the structural differences between the two types of molecules are reflected into different damage values, while the non‐ionic compound shows a not defined CMC and a very low toxicity profile. Blends of anionics with the non‐ionic show an increased CMC and a reduced toxicity profile. Toxicity evaluations of complex finished foaming formulations, carried out with human fibroblast cultures evaluation show that a relationship between micelles amount and cell toxicity seems to exist, mainly when multiple surfactants blends are tested.
Headspace analysis study of evaporation rate of perfume ingredients applied onto skin
Authors: VUILLEUMIER C. , FLAMENT I. , SAUVEGRAIN P. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisDiffusion of perfume ingredients from skin or hair is measured using an original method based on dynamic headspace technology. This has been used for pure odorants, fine fragrances, as well as for perfumed cosmetic applications such as soaps, creams or shampoos, in order to characterize diffusion processes and air/skin or air/hair partitioning. Accordingly, a special collection system, applied on the inner face of the forearm, has been developed, allowing the adsorption of diffusing organic vapours from skin onto Tenax (poly‐diphenyl phenylene oxide) with a controlled air flow rate. A simple model composition containing eleven volatile synthetic odorants was prepared in an alcoholic matrix and the solution was applied onto the skin. The diffusion rate of the different components was measured by determining the concentration of each in the gas phase versus time. Conversely, the same experiment was effected by the application of an alcoholic solution of each individual component. In this manner, the relative diffusion from skin of the components alone or mixed was compared using the same experimental technique. The effect of a musky component was also tested. Both compositions (with and without musk) were then applied in a soap base. Thus, following a rigorous protocol, the forearm was washed with the perfumed soap and rinsed with water before collection of the headspace. The results show the different diffusion rates of the individual odorants. In particular, components evaporate slower from the skin when they have been applied from a soap bar compared to when they have been applied from alcoholic solution. We also present results describing the characterization of skin types using a panel comprised of 80 people (40 females and 40 males); amount of sebum, hydration and pH were systematically measured on different parts of the face, the neck as well as the outer and inner faces of the forearm. The panelists were then classified into different sub‐groups taking into account these parameters. It should be noted that the foregoing results were obtained on an ‘average’skin type.
Reduction of nitrosamines in cosmetic products
Authors: CHALLIS B.C. , TREW D.F. , GUTHRIE W.G. , ROPER D.V. 
Published: May 2007

SummaryFrom initial rate studies of morpholine nitrosation in aqueous media by nitrite ion in the presence of formaldehyde at pH 5–7 and 25°C, four potential pathways are revealed for the concurrent formation of nitrosamine contaminants in cosmetic and toiletry products. Three of the pathways involve conventional electrophilic nitrosation by XNO reagents of both neutral amine and N‐hydroxymethylamine compounds obtained by prior reaction with formaldehyde. The fourth pathway involves a nucleophilic reaction by nitrite ion with the iminium ion derived from N‐hydroxymethylamine. For morpholine, reaction via XNO reagents is substantial at pH 5 only, whereas the iminium ion pathway is pre‐eminent at pH 7. The concurrent formation of nitrosamines by mechanistically different pathways implies that combinations of nitrosation inhibitors are necessary to minimize contamination of cosmetic and toiletry products. For these different pathways, novel inhibitory compounds are described which fulfil the usual acceptance criteria for cosmetic and toiletry materials. The efficacy of these compounds is assessed against N‐nitrosomorpholine formation in the presence of formaldehyde. These include erythorbate, ascorbate, pentanedione and pyranone compounds for the XNO pathways (pH 6) and neutral organic and inorganic salts for the iminium ion pathways (pH 7). Preliminary results for both a bath gel and a cream‐base formulation deliberately adulterated with morpholine, diethanolamine, nitrite and a preservative which releases low levels of formaldehyde on decomposition show better than 90% inhibition of nitrosamines by selected pairs of inhibitor compounds on storage at 40°C over several months. This novel technology is the subject of a worldwide patent application.
Synthesis of 2‐N‐oleoylamino‐octadecane‐1,3‐diol: a new ceramide highly effective for the treatment of skin and hair
Authors: PHILIPPE M. , GARSON J.C. , GILARD P. , HOCQUAUX M. , HUSSLER G. , LEROY F. , MAHIEU C. , SEMERIA D. , VANLERBERGHE G. 
Published: May 2007

Synopsis2‐N‐Oleoylamino‐octadecane‐1,3‐diol is a new synthetic ceramide. The process enables a four‐step preparation of 2‐amino‐octadecane‐1,3‐diol (D,L‐erythro/threo) and a five‐step synthesis of 2‐N‐oleoylamino‐octadecane‐1,3‐diol (D,L‐erythro/threo). The latter compound is related to ceramide 2 according to the classification of Downing. This route of synthesis is rapid, reproducible and uses low‐cost starting materials. The new ceramide was analysed as follows: 1H, 13C, 15N NMR spectra afforded an unambiguous characterization of the structure; additionally, these three methods identified the threo and erythro isomers. 1H and 13C NMR permitted the measurement of the threo/erythro ratio (26.6/73.4 and 25.5/74.5, respectively). Chemical ionization mass spectrometry confirmed the expected mass of the pseudo‐molecular ion (m/z= 566.5: [M + H]+) as well as the presence of different chain lengths other than the oleic moiety due to the fatty acid composition of the technical grade oleic acid used for the synthesis. Capillary gas chromatography measured the threo/erythro ratio (23.5/76.5) which agrees with the 1H and 13C NMR data. Moreover, this method afforded the relative distribution of the different N‐acylated chains. The properties of the new synthetic ceramide for the treatment of skin and hair were mainly assessed by two in vitro methods. The first measured the flux of water through lipid‐extracted stratum corneum. The described ceramide showed high efficacy in decreasing water loss. The second recorded the friction coefficient of different types of hair: virgin, permanent‐waved, and bleached. Treatment by the ceramide led to a strong decrease in this coefficient. This was particularly observed on unrinsed hair. These findings suggest two potential fields of application and beneficial contribution for the new ceramide: repairing the barrier to transepidermal water loss, and improving the surface properties of hair.Synthèse du 2‐N‐oleoylamino‐octadécane‐1,3‐diol: nouveau céramide à haut potentiel dans le soin de la peau et du cheveu.
Studies in vivo by electron spin resonance of free radical mechanisms implicated in UV‐induced skin photocarcinogenesis
Authors: VALAVANIDIS A. , RALLIS M. , PAPAIOANNOU G. , XENOS K. , KATSAROU A. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisSolar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is implicated in many types of skin damage, such as photodermatoses, photoageing, erythema, pigmentation, skin cancer etc. Free radicals and reactive oxygen species are considered to play an important role in cutaneous photocarcinogenesis. But skin is endowed with photoprotective agents, namely melanins and antioxidant enzymatic and non‐enzymatic mechanisms. In this study we describe the in vivo electron spin resonance (ESR) signals of melanins after UVR exposure, using skin specimens of various types of mice, which were taken from different parts of their bodies. The ESR signals were used as a model for testing the antioxidant properties of butylated hydroxyanisole, tocopherol acetate, and octyl p‐methoxycinnamate with butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane and superoxide dismutase (SOD). Additional UVB radiation was applied to the skin samples in situ (in the cavity of the ESR spectrometer). Suppression of ESR signals of melanins was observed in all cases.Etudes in vivo par resonance paramagnetique electronique, après exposition au rayonnement UV, des méchanismes radicalans impliqués a la photocarcinogénèse cutanée
Water retention of treated stratum corneum measured by a coupling method: thermal desorption‐mass spectrometry
Authors: GOURNAY A. , NAVARRO R. , MATHIEU J. , RIVIERE M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA thermal desorption autosampler coupled to a mass spectrometer has been used to measure the in vitro water retention of human stratum corneum as a function of treatment applied. Samples were treated with ingredients possessing good hygroscopic properties which are used in the formulation of moisturizing creams. After being treated, stratum corneum samples were dried and rehydrated and then analysed. The paper describes the method used to quantify their hygroscopic capacity in terms of the percentage of water retained. Ten humectants were examined, of which urea, glycerine, ammonium lactate and a new salt of an α‐hydroxy acid were found to have the highest activities. This method can also be used to quantify the water retention capacity of various types of pathological skin such as ichthyosis and psoriasis.
Influence du protocole opératoire sur les caractéristiques d'une émulsion L/H réalisée avec des surfactifs polymériques non ioniques
Authors: NIELLOUD F. , LAGET J.P. , FORTUNE R. , MARTI‐MESTRES G. , MAILLOLS H. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe mode of operation has an effect on the properties of emulsions. We have studied the influence of the method of preparation (temperature, stirring rate, time of phase introduction and method of cooling) on the rheological properties of an oil in water emulsion. The importance of factors is classified with the help of two‐level full and fractional factorial designs. The most significant factor is the mode of cooling, a progressive cooling produces an increase of viscosity and the influence of the other studied factors is insignificant. Sudden cooling entails a lowering of the viscosity and a diminution of the stability, and shows the influence of the rate of mixing and the temperature of manufacture.
Alternative methods: Hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane and in vitro cytotoxicity – a complementary approach
Authors: BOUE‐GRABOT M. , BERNARDIN G. , CHAUMOND S. , PINON J.F. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe ocular irritation potential of 107 cosmetics and toiletries was compared using the rabbit's eye Draize test (IOMA), a cytotoxicity in vitro method (CFIO), and the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET‐CAM). There was a good correlation between both alternative methods and the Draize test. Non‐correlating results were observed in 12 cases with the HET‐CAM method (six false positives, two false negatives, four technical failures) and in 14 cases with the CFIO method (ten false positives, four false negatives). However, all clearly irritant products were detected. False negatives were only found in products whose ocular irritation index lay close to the boundary (IOMA = 15) between the slightly and the moderately irritant products. None of the products was falsely found to be negative by both alternative methods. Therefore, the risk of underestimating the ocular irritation potential was avoided. The coupling of these two methods seemed to be of interest as an alternative approach to the assessment of the potential for ocular irritation of cosmetics and toiletries.
A screening procedure for total N‐nitroso contaminants in personal care products: results of collaborative studies undertaken by a CTPA Working Group
Authors: CHALLIS B.C. , COLLING J. , CROMIE D.D.O. , GUTHRIE W.G. , POLLOCK J.R.A. , TAYLOR P. , TELLING G.M. , WALLACE L. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA modified procedure for the determination of total N‐nitroso compounds in personal care products was evaluated in collaborative studies organized through the UK Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA). The method offers a true ‘totals’determination in that a solution of the whole sample is analysed. Samples are dissolved/suspended in water or aqueous THF, and nitrite/nitrite ester interferences are removed by prior treatment with sulphamic acid. The treated test solution is denitrosated in a single reaction with HBr/acetic acid, in refluxing n‐propyl acetate, and ‘total’N‐nitroso compounds are determined in a chemiluminescence reaction of the released nitric oxide with ozone. The use of a propyl acetate denitrosation solvent and of higher concentrations of HBr have improved both the sensitivity (routine limit of determination at 10 μgkg‐1) and water tolerance of the method. The method was shown to recover N‐nitrosamines quantitatively, and to be sufficiently repeatable and reproducible to be used as a screening technique for N‐nitroso compounds in personal care products.
Some simple theoretical considerations on the bending stiffness of human hair
Authors: SWIFT J.A. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisFactors affecting the cantilever bending of human hair have been investigated by theoretical structural mechanics in which the hair was treated as if it was of isotropic structure and internal mechanical property. Despite the simplicity of the model it is a valuable one for assessing the major geometric factors affecting a hair's bending behaviour in relation to perceptions of coarseness and fineness. Simple equations have been used for predicting relative bending stiffness between hairs of different racial types using published fibre cross‐sectional information and these accord with existing perceptions of behaviour. Strikingly it is the hair's minor elliptic diameter which has a dominant effect upon bending resistance and it is shown that the hair's cuticle could be making a very high proportional contribution. It is shown that triangular hairs of the uncombable hair syndrome will be stiffer than normal elliptical hairs of the same cross‐sectional area and that this goes some way to explaining the condition.
Seasonal influences on stratum corneum ceramide 1 fatty acids and the influence of topical essential fatty acids
Authors: CONTI A. , ROGERS J. , VERDEJO† P. , HARDING C. R. , RAWLINGS A. V. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisCeramide 1 is the main repository of stratum corneum linoleic acid, and changes in the levels of ceramide 1 linoleate are associated with cutaneous abnormalities: essential fatty acid deficiency, atopic dermatitis and acne. We have previously reported seasonal variation in stratum corneum lipids where lipids, particularly ceramides, are very much reduced in winter which probably influences the appearance of skin xerosis in this season. However, investigations into the seasonal variation in ceramide 1 fatty acid levels and the effects of topical essential fatty acids on the composition of these lipid species have not been conducted in healthy subjects. We determined the composition of stratum corneum ceramide 1 esterified fatty acids in leg skin from Caucasian women in winter and summer and also investigated the effects of topical triglycerides rich in linoleic acid on stratum corneum ceramide 1 fatty acid levels in winter. A dramatic seasonal variation was observed. Whereas decreased levels of linoleic acid and some saturated fatty acids (C‐15 and C‐24) were observed in the winter months, increased levels of oleic acid were found. Nevertheless, it was possible to normalize the levels of stratum corneum ceramide 1 linoleate following topical application of formulations containing linoleic acid‐rich triglycerides for 4 weeks. The reduction in ceramide 1 linoleate may lead to impaired stratum corneum function and increased susceptibility to skin xerosis in winter. However, by using formulations containing linoleic acid esters it is possible to correct these changes and possibly improve barrier resilience.
Consequences for sun protection factors when solar simulator spectra deviate from the spectrum of the sun
Authors: UHLMANN B. , MANN T. , GERS‐BARLAG H. , ALERT D. , SAUERMANN G. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe sun protection factor (SPF) of two products, one with an expected SPF of 4 and another with an expected SPF of 15 were determined, using two solar simulators: Multiport Solar UV Simulator (xenon, Solar Light, Philadelphia, PA, USA), and Supersun 5000 (metal halide, Mutzhas, Munich, Germany). The mean SPFs using the Multiport were: 4.8 for the low SPF product and 19.4 for the high SPF one. The results using the Supersun were lower: 2.6 for the low SPF product and 7.2 for the high SPF one. Relative emission spectra of the two sources were recorded using a fluorescence spectrophotometer in bioluminescence mode. Efficacy spectra were calculated and compared with the corresponding spectrum of natural sunlight. It was evident that the spectral power of the xenon source is too high in the UVB, leading to overestimation of SPFs, whereas the Supersun irradiator emits too much in the UVA, resulting in too low SPFs. Heat effects and photodegradation of UV filters are discussed as further possible reasons for the discrepancies between the experimentally determined SPFs. Our results confirm a recent publication about theoretical SPFs, calculated with emission spectra of a xenon source and spectra of the sun at different elevation angles, where the authors provide evidence that in natural sunlight the contribution of UVA to total UV radiation is twice as high as in a xenon source. This may contribute to an understanding of why sunscreens tested according to the FDA method (xenon sources) often yield higher SPFs than those obtained from European testing procedures.