bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
The use of decorated titanium oxide nanoparticles for the development of handmade textile heritage in Egyptian villages: Design, mechanical, flammability, and antibacterial properties
Authors: Moustafa Hesham , Fawzy Ibrahim Saher , Ahmed Emad M. , Atef Heba 
Published: February 2024

AbstractImproving eco‐friendly coating‐based materials for wool artifacts, such as kilim fabric can inspire new‐fashion design avenues for conserving ancient cultural heritage. Thus, this research addresses an efficient treatment agent from natural rosin acids (R) and dapsone (D) with variable sublethal proportions of synthesized titanium dioxide nanoparticles (TiO2 NPs) (i.e., 0.1%, 0.3%, and 0.6%) for modifying kilim fabric (KF) using a dip‐coating method. The nanostructure of prepared TiO2 nanoparticles and their particle size were examined by x‐ray diffraction (XRD) and Zetasizer analyzer. The data showed that the majority of prepared TiO2 oriented to a rutile‐type structure with an average hydrodynamic diameter of 48.30–49.65 nm. The KF‐R/D‐0.3% TiO2 NPs specimen provided the best tensile properties reached ~3192 N compared with the untreated KF (i.e., 1125 N). This finding confirmed by SEM observations. Whereas, the specimen containing decorated TiO2 NPs (i.e., 0.6%) possessed higher flammability resistance property compared with other specimens. Moreover, XRD and FTIR results for treated KF specimens demonstrated the significant role of TiO2 NPs, which react with KF keratin either by new linkages or through chelating geometry to form a compact KF matrix. This contributed to enhance the tensile and flammability properties. Additionally, a great achievement in antibacterial properties occurred when TiO2 NPs used and their inhibitory zones were 18–36 mm, depending on the bacteria and specimen type.Highlights
Novel treatment of KF fabric‐based bioagents with sublethal contents of TiO2 NPs was successfully prepared by dip‐coating route.
The tensile force and flammability of treated KF fabric were greatly enhanced.
A great achievement in antibacterial activity was noticed when TiO2 added.
These treated fabrics have excellent possibility for use in conserving cultural heritage.
Exploring women's strong preference for women surgeons in breast healthcare
Authors: Kahalon Rotem , Adar Roy 
Published: February 2024

AbstractBackgroundThis study challenges the prevalent belief that surgical roles demand masculine traits, potentially limiting women's suitability for such positions. Contrary to this stereotype, we explored the hypothesis that in sensitive surgical procedures, where communal traits are valued, women patients might favor women surgeons. Two experimental studies investigated women's preferences for a man versus a woman surgeon in a breast exam and breast surgery.MethodsIn two studies we experimentally tested women's preferences for a man versus a woman surgeon for a breast exam (a noninvasive and non‐complicated procedure), and breast surgery (an invasive and more complicated procedure). Study 2 delved into factors influencing these preferences, including patients' age, stereotypical perceptions of women surgeons as communal/warm, past negative experiences with men and women doctors, and previous body‐related trauma.ResultsWomen consistently preferred a woman surgeon for both procedures and expressed increased willingness to wait for an appointment with a woman surgeon. However, this preference was less pronounced for surgery than for an exam. Study 2 identified the stereotypical perception of women surgeons as communal/warm as the strongest predictor for this preference, along with previous negative experiences with men doctors and age.ConclusionsWhile some gender bias persists, this study underscores a notable preference for women surgeons in intimate medical services like breast exams or surgery. This preference holds practical implications for healthcare providers encouraging women's preventive checkups and offers insights for women medical students making residency choices.
Towards a Gendered, Decentred History of Cultural Mediation in the Eighteenth Century
Authors: Bolufer Mónica , Guinot-Ferri Laura 
Published: February 2024

AbstractHow can transnational and global perspectives on the Enlightenment and approaches that take gender as a standpoint fertilise each other? This volume aims at doing so by exploring women’s contributions to cultural mediation and the ways in which notions of gender circulated and were transformed, hybridised and creatively appropriated in contextualised and material forms. The introduction considers previous scholarship on eighteenth-century travel, translation and cultural circulation, and on women’s participation in intellectual and cultural life, to propose new avenues for research that expand the geography of Enlightenment to cover Southern Europe and the Hispanic world. It also highlights how examining debates about women’s “nature” from Madrid and Paris to Mexico and Peru (and the other way round), and looking at the roles of women of letters, travellers, translators, readers, owners of books and agents in multilingual epistolary networks provide fresh knowledge on the workings of transnational and transoceanic exchanges, and the obstacles and limits to circulation and mobility.
Trans-Adriatic Enlightenments: Maria Petrettini’s Italian Translation of the Turkish Embassy Letters
Authors: Papalexopoulou Elisavet 
Published: February 2024

AbstractIn 1838, Maria Petrettini, a Greco-Venetian aristocrat, published a translation of Lady Mary Wortley Montagu’s Turkish Embassy Letters from English into Italian. In this paper, taking as a focal point Petrettini’s translation of the Letters, I aim to unravel the story of two parallel texts that challenged religious and political presuppositions. In the work of Petrettini and Montagu, the view of the Turk as a savage is deconstructed through a gendered perspective. The writer and the translator propose that a traveller can know a foreign land only if they are able to penetrate all aspects of public and private life; a feat that only a female scholar can accomplish. Apart from the importance of the Letters and their translation, focusing on a scholar like Maria Petrettini allows us to broaden our gaze to the intellectual possibilities available to high class women in the North-Eastern Mediterranean; the multiple strategies for women’s political representation within an era of Revolutions; the mosaic of religious, political and ethnic affiliations and the ways in which Enlightenment and Romantic ideas merged into each other within the framework of the Greco-Italian intellectual milieu providing us with a transcultural, trans-Adriatic Enlightenment.
Women’s Libraries and “Women’s Books”, 1729–1830
Authors: Montoya Alicia C. 
Published: February 2024

AbstractDuring the eighteenth century, as the practice of selling books at auction spread throughout Europe, moving beyond its original Dutch origins to the rest of the continent, an increasing number of female-owned libraries were also sold at auction. These sales were accompanied by printed catalogues that, together with widespread discourses about women’s reading, helped construct new images of the female reader. During the same period, a new ideal type of female-gendered library was conceptualized, the bibliothèque choisie, that foregrounded personal reading taste and belles-lettres, and was sometimes associated with historical, real female readers. This essay explores the historical reality of the discursively imagined woman reader, using bibliometric tools to examine a corpus of auction catalogues of smaller and medium-sized female-owned libraries or bibliothèques choisies sold in France, the Dutch Republic and British Isles between 1729 and 1830. Adopting a geographically comparative perspective, I study the historical evolution of these female-owned libraries, focusing particularly on women as readers of devotional literature and of novels. I demonstrate that while women’s libraries did differ perceptibly from men’s libraries, these differences were sometimes subtler than inherited narratives might suggest, and require rich contextualization taking into account multiple geographic, social, and material factors.
The Production and Circulation of Literature for Women Between Europe and America: A Perspective from the Hispanic-American World
Authors: Guinot-Ferri Laura 
Published: February 2024

AbstractThis essay aims to analyse how literature “for women” and the image of the ideal female reader were shaped in the eighteenth century by focusing on relations between Spain and colonial Latin America and comparing them with the situation elsewhere in Europe. The tendency has been to adopt a “national approach” to the study of women as potential readers and moral subjects with little regard for the similarities and differences between disparate geographical spaces. To overcome these limitations, this essay will apply a comparative and transnational perspective. I shall set out a general overview of works addressed to women in Spain and New Spain that were published or translated in the second half of the eighteenth century, paying particular attention to the transatlantic circulation of this kind of literature. By drawing on a variety of sources, such as newspaper advertisements and bibliographic catalogues relating to book production in America and Spain, I shall present a dynamic vision of the complex relationship between gender and reading, one that belies any simplistic and increasingly outdated assertions of Hispanic and Iberian backwardness in comparison with the rest of Europe during the Enlightenment.
Women and Novels: Educating the Female Public in the Age of Enlightenment
Authors: Delpiano Patrizia 
Published: February 2024

AbstractThis chapter addresses efforts to govern the female public in the Age of Enlightenment, bringing to light the difficult relationship between Catholicism and women’s reading in the Italian context. The aim is to study the strategies Catholic moralists adopted in Italy to regulate the emerging female audience in a century characterised by important changes, particularly in terms of secularisation. The first part analyses the reasons that led ecclesiastical hierarchies, censors and moralists to condemn novels. The novel, deemed capable of reaching a vast public—especially women and so-called “incautious” readers—was increasingly viewed as one of the instruments of the Enlightenment and, as such, a vehicle for spreading irreligion. The second part examines the origins and use of the antiphilosophical novel as a way of educating women. I take as a case study Emirena by Benvenuto Robbio di san Raffaele (1735–1794) and place it in the wider European context to show the international breadth of the pedagogy of “good books” and reading that dated back to the age of Enlightenment and continued in the nineteenth century.
Discussing Gender, Discussing Modernities in the Global Enlightenment: The Many Lives of a Spanish Defence of Women in Europe and America
Authors: Bolufer Mónica 
Published: February 2024

AbstractThis chapter discusses the ways in which the essay entitled Defensa de las mujeres (Defence of women, 1726), by Benito Jerónimo Feijoo (1676–1764), travelled around Europe and the Americas throughout the eighteenth century and into the early nineteenth century. It examines translations in four different languages and the contexts in which they appeared and were disseminated, asking how, when, by whom and for what readership the essay was adapted, reviewed, reused or contested. The far-reaching and lasting impact of the Defensa de las mujeres raises significant theoretical and methodological questions. It endorses a multicentred understanding of Enlightenment discussions of gender. It also makes us wonder, as the text did in its own time, how modernity was framed (by the author, a cleric, and by his readers and critics) in relation to Catholicism and to national stereotypes. It stimulates reflection about what might be called “transtemporal translation”: the process by which texts written long ago are redefined and turned into symbolic contemporaries. Finally, the way in which Feijoo’s arguments were used in colonial Spanish and Portuguese America allows us to interpret cultural relations between peninsular and transatlantic territories of those empires in terms not of unilateral dissemination, but of active, critical discussion.
Female Faces in the Fraternity. Printed Portraits Galleries and the Construction and Circulation of Images of Learned Women in the Republic of Letters
Authors: van Deinsen Lieke 
Published: February 2024

AbstractHow women tried to secure a place in the early modern male-dominated intellectual field has been the subject of numerous studies over the last decade. The most visible sign of their growing presence in the intellectual field—their printed portraits—has, however, received surprisingly little critical attention. This chapter discusses printed portraits of learned women as vehicles of public image in the male-dominated Republic of Letters. It unravels how the inclusion of the likenesses of four prominent contemporary learned women—Luise Gottsched, Emilie Du Châtelet, Laura Bassi and Magdalena Sibylla Rieger—in one of the most ambitious printed portrait galleries of the eighteenth century, the Bilder-Sal, contributed to their representation as intellectual authority in the Republic of Letters. Especially due to their visual nature their portraits proved ideal vehicles to readily disseminated representations of female intellectual authority across regional, national and linguistic borders, finding their ways to the study rooms of prominent scholars. As such, they contributed to a more inclusive image of the intellectual across Europe. It remained, however, a fine line between embodying intellectual authority and maintaining female modesty. Besides reflections on their intellectual capacities, these women’s portraits continued to spark discussions on their physical—and evidently female—appearances.
Elsewhere. Women Translators and Travellers in Europe and the Mediterranean Basin in the Age of Enlightenment
Authors: Simonutti Luisa 
Published: February 2024

AbstractTravel as sentimental education, travel as cultural transfer and translation of texts, ideas, and emotions. Travel literature is an amalgam and hybridisation that can be analysed from different disciplinary perspective. Between the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, this area became a sphere of expression not only for women philosophers, scientists and religious figures, but also for translators. Translation was mostly considered a non- creative activity, subordinate to the primacy of the author and hence devoid of the risk that the translator could independently promote ideas or foster controversies. However, there were women translators who consciously used translation and descriptive narrative as a tool for spreading new and sometimes provocative ideas. This chapter focuses on the analogy between two worlds, both involving strategies of cultural mediation and mutual diachronic and geographical bonds: the world of translation that interprets works to offer them to new contexts of reception, and the world of travelling, of journeys lived, narrated, and translated, that make distant and unknown places intelligible. I will concentrate on the figures of women travellers, translators, and writers, especially in the Levant and the Mediterranean, with a particular emphasis on the cases of Anne-Marie Fiquet du Boccage and Lady Mary Wortley Montagu.
Translating Genre and Gender for Madrid Audiences: The Case of María Rosa de Gálvez
Authors: Lewis Elizabeth Franklin 
Published: February 2024

AbstractThis essay highlights the importance of translation for eighteenth-century women writers, giving special focus to the life and work of María Rosa Gálvez (1768–1806), the most successful Spanish woman writer of her day and a member of a family with important positions in the Bourbon administration in both Spain and colonial America. We will consider Gálvez’s comments on translation, theatre, and lyric, as well as the international texts that she adapted, translated, or imitated to understand better her attempts to make a place for herself in literary history. A focus on two translations—Catalina o la bella labradora (1801) and the opera Bion (1804)—along with one original sentimental drama—El egoísta (1804) will reveal the importance of genre and gender in the aesthetic and thematic choices that Gálvez made in her translations, adaptations, and original texts. Ultimately, we will go beyond the dichotomy of previous approaches to Gálvez’s work, seeing her translated and original work as separate and unequal endeavours, to see how her choices of genre and emphasis on gender run throughout her career.
Kultur von allen für alle mit allen? Eine Einleitung
Authors: Hanke Benjamin 
Published: February 2024

ZusammenfassungSpitzenklöppeln, Poetry Slam und Chorgesang. Das alles ist Kultur. Und zwar nicht nur im anthropologischen Sinne. Alle drei Formen sind konkrete Kultur in Form von kreativen Tätigkeiten. Kann man auf die Idee kommen, diese drei sehr unterschiedlichen Kulturformen in ein und dieselbe Kategorie einzuordnen? Durchaus! Die staatlichen und nichtstaatlichen Akteure, die die Umsetzung der UNESCO-Konvention zur Erhaltung des immateriellen Kulturerbes in Deutschland verantworten, haben alle drei als Immaterielles Kulturerbe in Deutschland anerkannt. Kann mit der Konventionsumsetzung in Deutschland (endlich) das Ziel „Kultur von allen für alle“ verwirklicht werden?
Konzepte und Methoden einer empirischen Untersuchung von kulturpolitischen Instrumenten zur Umsetzung der UNESCO-Konvention von 2003
Authors: Hanke Benjamin 
Published: February 2024

ZusammenfassungDie Arbeit bewegt sich an der Schnittstelle zwischen den Disziplinen der Politikwissenschaft und den Kulturwissenschaften. Methodisch werden v. a. sozial-, verwaltungs- und politikwissenschaftliche Ansätze verfolgt, da es um die Untersuchung des Politikfelds Kulturpolitik geht und über die Thematik des Immateriellen Kulturerbes hinaus allgemeingültige Aussagen getroffen werden sollen. Während vier von fünf Forschungsfragen dieser Arbeit vorrangig politikwissenschaftlicher Natur sind, lässt sich auch jene, die den Untersuchungsgegenstand kulturwissenschaftlich in den Blick nimmt, mit den entsprechenden gewählten sozialwissenschaftlichen Methoden gut untersuchen.
Evaluierung der kulturpolitischen Maßnahmen: Ergebnisse aus der bisherigen Praxis und Erkenntnisse für eine künftige Politik zum Immateriellen Kulturerbe
Authors: Hanke Benjamin 
Published: February 2024

ZusammenfassungWelche Ergebnisse hatte die Politik zum Immateriellen Kulturerbe in Deutschland darüber hinaus und welche Erkenntnisse ergeben sich daraus für eine künftige Politik? Welche Modifikationen wären, auch unter Betrachtung der Erfahrungen in anderen Staaten, zu empfehlen? Welche Bereiche bedürfen einer weiteren politik- und/oder kulturwissenschaftlichen Erforschung?
Afterthought: Vulnerability and Tenacity
Authors: Budianta Melani 
Published: February 2024

AbstractThis closing chapter reflects on the global-local context for the conservative rise in Indonesia, examining artists’ and women activists’ creative strategies in dealing with the return of patriarchies in public and private spheres. The chapter argues that the interface between gender, sexuality, and Islam occurs in a terrain mediated by digital transformation, affected by complicated legal battles and global markets, which can both enlarge and limit women’s space for expression. The battleground is filled with ambiguities and complexities, with no linear direction. Referencing, among others, the activism of KUPI (Congress of Indonesian Female Ulama), the chapter captures the core theme of this edited volume: the tenacity of the collectives and individuals in continuously transcending women’s vulnerabilityin Indonesia.
Fraught Relations: Indonesian Modest Fashion, New York Catwalks, and the Spectacle of Travel
Authors: Saraswati Asri 
Published: February 2024

AbstractThis chapter examines the rise of Indonesian Muslim fashion, or “modest fashion,” and its connection to the New Yorkcatwalks. It seeks to uncover the interplay between the narratives of freedom and travel in creating the global capitalist pullfor modest fashionin Indonesia. Thus, it contributes to one of the aims of this volume to “explore the different ways in which modestyand commodification interact” (see Arnez 2023, this volume, Chap.1). Contributing to studies examining political statements of designers of Islamic clothing for women, this chapter discusses the popularity of Indonesian modest fashion on the New York catwalks in the context of the Western world’s feelings of guilt towards Muslims, prompted by anti-Muslim sentiment. Displays of fashion by Indonesian designers on catwalks and the designers trotting New YorkCity were used as political statements and marketing tools. Particular attention will be paid to Indonesian designers’ engagement with the New York Fashion Week and the Couture Fashion Week, and the images of travel displayed. This article sheds light on the problematic relationship between Indonesian Muslim fashion and narratives of travel, specifically considering the highly politically contentious moment when refugees from Islamic countries were denied entry into the U.S. This created a platform for Indonesians to promote equality and stand against the racist travel ban posed upon Muslims, yet it also produced the myth that the freedom to travel is guaranteed.
On Certification and Beauty: Representations of Halal Cosmetics on YouTube in Indonesia
Authors: Manzo Annalisa 
Published: February 2024

AbstractWith the world’s largest Muslim population, Indonesia is one of the world’s most prospering Islamic economies, with a leading role in manyhalal marketsectors. Since 2018, food and cosmetics have been certified by the Indonesia Ulama Council (Majelis Ulama Indonesia; MUI), which is the body for issuingfatwas(religious edicts) in Indonesia. This has opened more opportunities for the sales market ofhalal-certified (permitted, legal) cosmetics. The potential ofhalalproducts has prompted Incumbent Indonesian Vice President K.H. Ma’ruf Amin to announce in June 2021 that Indonesia aims to become the largest producer and exporter ofhalalgoods globally. This paper examines the interplay between certificationand beauty, using the example ofhalal-labelledcosmeticson YouTube. The first objective of this chapter is to analyze how commercialsonhalal cosmeticscombine notions of Islamic identity and beauty, and thus set new standards for a gendered Indonesianhalallifestyle. The second objective is to strengthen an understanding of how Islamic male preachers discusshalal cosmeticson YouTube. The analysis reveals howhalalcommercials, on the one hand, and Islamic male preachers, on the other, pursue the same objective to funnel thehalallabel into concrete instructions.
Online Halal Dating: AyoPoligami and the Contestations of Polygamy as the “New Normal” in Indonesia
Authors: Kurnia Lilawati , Nurbaity  
Published: February 2024

AbstractThis chapter explores how the online datingapp AyoPoligami expresses ahalallifestyle that has become increasingly popular in Indonesia in recent years. While it is desirable for many middle-class Muslims, both women and men, to live a Sharia-compliant life and to document this in public, it is questionable to what extent corresponding online services want to be associated with thehalallabel that delivers on this promise. It compares AyoPoligami with other dating apps, particularly Salams(previously Minder), a popular dating app for Muslims whose slogan is to “find love or friends thehalalway.” While scholars have explored Islamic branding andhalalproducts as well as online datingin Indonesia, an analysis of online dating in the context of polygamy in Indonesia is under explored. We break new ground with this research by using interviews with users and an analysis of app features to explore how the online app AyoPoligami uses thehalallabel to make polygamy socially acceptable, to make it the “new normal,” the more visible popular polygamous marriage.