bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
J. Cosmet. Sci., 158, 651–662 (November/December 2007) Water‐handling properties of vernix caseosa and a synthetic analogue
Authors: Tansirikongkol A. , Visscher M. O. , Randall Wickett R. 
Published: September 2008

Accepted for publication May 14, 2007SynopsisA naturally occurring barrier cream, vernix caseosa, is the viscous material synthesized by the sebaceous glands in the late gestational human fetus. Vernix functions as a moisturizer by increasing the skin hydration and water‐holding capacity of treated skin. Vernix films are semi‐permeable, i.e., in the range that facilitates barrier repair. Antioxidant, disinfectant, and skin cleansing functions are also present. Premature infants have a markedly immature epidermal barrier and the excessive water loss can lead to fluid and electrolyte imbalances, along with high evaporative heat loss. Application of petrolatum‐based, low‐water creams on these infants has decreased TEWL and improved the skin condition. However, in infants of 500–750 g, this treatment was associated with an increased incidence of late‐onset nosocomial infection, and questions regarding efficacy and safety have been raised. The water‐handling properties, semi‐permeability and multi‐functionality, suggest that application of vernix may promote the development and restoration of premature or other compromised skin. The present study focuses on the development of barrier creams to simulate the water‐handling properties of native vernix. Barrier creams were prepared as high‐water‐phase emulsions containing various lipid mixtures. Several stable creams with high water content exhibited slow water release and water vapor transport rates in the range to facilitate barrier repair. The results showed the importance of emulsion type in preventing water release. Preparations with vernix‐like lipids demonstrated water release profiles closer to the native vernix benchmark than those with conventional lipids. The work resulted in a synthetic vernix barrier cream prototype for evaluation on skin and to which additional functionality, e.g., anti‐infective and antioxidant activity, could be added. J. Cosmet. Sci.,
58, 663–666 (November/December 2007)AbstractsInternational Journal of Cosmetic Science, Vol. 29, No. 4, 2007* J. Cosmet. Sci.,
58, 667–668 (November/December 2007)AbstractsJournal of the Polish Society of Cosmetic Science, “Wiadomości PTK” Vol. 10, No 2, 2007* J. Cosmet. Sci.,
58, 669–678 (November/December 2007)Author Index To Volume 58 J. Cosmet. Sci.,
58, 679–685 (November/December 2007)Subject Index To Volume 58
A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin. Part I: Cellular and molecular perspectives of skin ageing
Authors: Callaghan T. M. , Wilhelm K.‐P. 
Published: September 2008

SynopsisThe ageing process is noticeable within all organs of the body and manifests itself visibly in the skin. Skin ageing is influenced by several factors including genetics, environmental exposure, hormonal changes and metabolic processes. Together these factors lead to cumulative alterations of skin structure, function and appearance. The functioning of the central nervous, immune, endocrine and cardiovascular systems, as well as the skin is also impaired with age. Chronologically, aged skin is thin, relatively flattened, dry and unblemished, with some loss of elasticity and age‐related loss of architectural regularity. General atrophy of the extracellular matrix is reflected by a decrease in the number of fibroblasts. Reduced levels of collagen and elastin, with impaired organization are primarily because of decreased protein synthesis affecting types I and III collagen in the dermis, with an increased breakdown of extracellular matrix proteins. Oxidative stress is considered of primary importance in driving the ageing process. The original free radical theory of ageing purported that the molecular basis of ageing was derived from a lifetime accumulation of oxidative damage to cells resulting from excess reactive oxygen species (ROS) produced as a consequence of aerobic metabolism. Although the skin possesses extremely efficient anti‐oxidant activities, during ageing, ROS levels rise and anti‐oxidant activities decline. The ROS are necessary in multiple MAP kinase pathways and the induction of AP‐1, in turn, up‐regulates expression of matrix‐metalloproteinases providing a plausible mechanism for the increased collagen degradation in aged human skin.
A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin. Part 2: Clinical perspectives and clinical methods in the evaluation of ageing skin
Authors: Callaghan T. M. , Wilhelm K.‐P. 
Published: September 2008

SynopsisWith the advancement of skin research, today’s consumer has increased access to technological information about ageing skin and hair care products. As a result, there is a rapidly increasing demand for proof of efficacy of these products. Recognizing these demands has led to the development and validation of many clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin and the effects of anti‐ageing treatments. Many of the current testing methods used to research and evaluate anti‐ageing product claim to employ sophisticated instruments alongside more traditional clinical methods. Intelligent use of combined clinical methods has enabled the development of technologically advanced consumer products providing enhanced efficacy and performance. Of non‐invasive methods for the assessment and quantification of ageing skin, there is a plethora of tools available to the clinical researcher as defined by key clinically observed ageing parameters: skin roughness and surface texture; fine lines and wrinkles; skin pigmentation; skin colour; firmness and elasticity; hair loss; and proliferative lesions. Furthermore, many clinical procedures for the evaluation of ageing skin treatments are combined with invasive procedures, which enable added‐value to claims (such as identification and alteration of biochemical markers), particularly in those cases where perception of product effect needs additional support. As discussed herein, clinical methods used in the assessment of skin ageing are many and require a disciplined approach to their use in such investigations.
Validation of HPLC method for quantitative determination of Tinosorb®S and three other sunscreens in a high protection cosmetic product
Authors: Dencausse L. , Galland A. , Clamou J. L. , Basso J. 
Published: September 2008

SynopsisA chromatographic method (high performance liquid chromatography) with a diode array detector was developed for simultaneous assay of Tinosorb®S (bis‐ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) with three other sunscreen agents [benzophenone‐3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate] in high protection sunscreen. Separations were performed on a RP‐18 Nucleodur®Gravity®column (150 × 4.6 mm, 5 μm) eluted with a ternary gradient mixture constituted of tetrahydrofuran, acetonitrile and an aqueous solution of acetic acid. The quantitative analysis was achieved with internal calibration performed with octyl dimethyl para‐aminobenzoate (PABA) at 330 nm. In accordance with the analytical references (SFSTP, ICH, ISO…), the accuracy of the method was evaluated using a statistical approach of the validation parameters (specificity, response function, linearity, precision and trueness). For each studied ultraviolet filter, an accuracy profile was determined on a predicted range. These profiles show a graphical representation of the recovery percentage and confidence limits centred on 100%. The method is validated and can be used for analysis in cosmetic sunscreen products.
Adaptation of the protocol for determining in vitro the sun protection factor of anti‐solar sticks
Authors: Choquenet B. , Couteau C. , Paparis E. , Coiffard L. J. M. 
Published: September 2008

SynopsisApart from the protection offered by clothing, the application of sunscreen products suited to each type of skin constitutes one way for decreasing the frequency of skin cancers nowadays. After having adapted an in vitro method for determining the efficacy of sunscreens in emulsion form, we wished to transpose this technique by adapting it for the anti‐solar sticks for the evaluation of sun protection factor (SPF) using a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere. To do this, we tested 14 products in the market as well as sticks that we ourselves fabricated in the laboratory. In a base common to all of these sticks, we added organic (13 filters tested) and inorganic (two filters tested, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) to their maximum permitted concentration in the European Union. In parallel, emulsions containing the same filters at the same percentage of use were studied; to be in keeping with the results on the products packaging on the one hand, and with the results obtained for the emulsion form on the other hand, we were able to determine the optimal mass which needed to be placed on the support used the in vitro test to determine the SPF.
Simultaneous determination of 21 preservatives in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography
Authors: Wu T. , Wang C. , Wang X. , Ma Q. 
Published: September 2008

SynopsisAn ultra performance liquid chromatography (UPLC) method has been developed for the simultaneous determination of 21 preservatives: 2‐methyl‐4‐isothiazoline‐3‐ketone, bronopol, 5‐chloro‐2‐methyl‐4‐isothiazoline‐3‐ketone, benzyl alcohol, 2‐phenoxyethanol, methyl‐p‐hydroxy benzoate, ethyl‐p‐hydroxy benzoate, methyl benzoate, 4‐hydroxybenzoic acid iso‐propyl ester, propyl‐p‐hydroxy benzoate, 4‐chloro‐3‐methylphenol, ethyl benzoate, 2‐phenylphenol, 4‐hydroxybenzoic acid iso‐butyl ester, butyl‐p‐hydroxy benzoate, 4‐chloro‐3,5‐dimethylphenol, phenyl benzoate, 2,4‐dichloro‐3,5‐dimethylphenol, 2‐benzyl‐4‐chlorophenol, triclocarban and triclosan in cosmetics. A Waters ACQUITY UPLC BEH C18 column was used with 0.1% formic acid solution as the mobile phase under the condition of gradient elution. Preservatives were extracted with methanol by ultrasonicator, and then they were analysed by UPLC‐PDA detector. All these preservatives were baseline separated in 8.5 min. The pre‐treatment method of samples and the chromatographic condition of analysis were critically examined in this study. The recoveries ranged from 90.5 to 97.8%, with RSD values below 3.2%, and all correlation coefficients (r) were no less than 0.9997. Thus, this method could be used for analysing the preservatives in cosmetic products.
Power, Validity, Bias and Robustness of Family‐based Association Analysis Methods in the Presence of Linkage for Late Onset Diseases
Authors: Nsengimana J. , Barrett J. H. 
Published: September 2008

SummaryThis simulation‐based report compares the performance of five methods of association analysis in the presence of linkage using extended sibships: the Family‐Based Association Test (FBAT), Empirical Variance FBAT (EV‐FBAT), Conditional Logistic Regression (CLR), Robust CLR (R‐CLR) and Sibship Disequilibrium Test (SDT). The two tests accounting for residual familial correlation (EV‐FBAT and R‐CLR) and the model‐free SDT showed correct test size in all simulated designs, while FBAT and CLR were only valid for small effect sizes. SDT had the lowest power, while CLR had the highest power, generally similar to FBAT and the robust variance analogues. The power of all model‐dependent tests dropped when the model was misspecified, although often not substantially. Estimates of genetic effect with CLR and R‐CLR were unbiased when the disease locus was analysed but biased when a nearby marker was analysed. This study demonstrates that the genetic effect does not need to be extreme to invalidate tests that ignore familial correlation and confirms that analogous methods using robust variance estimation provide a valid alternative at little cost to power. Overall R‐CLR is the best‐performing method among these alternatives for the analysis of extended sibship data.
Diversity and similarity of butterfly communities in five different habitat types at Tam Dao National Park, Vietnam
Authors: Vu L. V. 
Published: September 2008

AbstractDiversity and similarity of butterfly communities were assessed in five different habitat types (from natural closed forest to agricultural lands) in the mountains of Tam Dao National Park, Vietnam for 3 years from 2002 to 2004. The line transect count was used to record species richness and abundance of butterfly communities in the different habitat types. For each habitat, the number of species and individuals, and indices of species richness, evenness and diversity of butterfly communities were calculated. The results indicated that species richness and abundance of butterfly communities were low in the natural closed forest, higher in the disturbed forest, highest in the forest edge, lower in the shrub habitat and lowest in the agricultural lands. The indices of species richness, evenness and diversity of butterfly communities were low in agricultural lands and natural closed forest but highest in the forest edge and shrub habitats. The families Satyridae and Amathusiidae have the greatest species richness and abundance in the natural closed forest, with a reduction in their species richness and abundance from the natural closed forest to the agricultural lands. Species composition of butterfly communities was different among five different habitat types (40%), was similar in habitats outside the forest (68%) and was similar in habitats inside the forest (63%). Diversity and abundance of butterfly communities are not different between the natural closed forest and the agriculture lands, but species composition changed greatly between these habitat types. A positive correlation between the size of species geographical distribution range and increasing habitat disturbance was found. The most characteristic natural closed forest species have the smallest geographical distribution range.
Larval over‐wintering: plasticity in the timing of life‐history events in the common frog
Authors: Walsh P. T. , Downie J. R. , Monaghan P. 
Published: September 2008

AbstractIn ectothermic animals living in temperate regions, winter is a critical time. During early ontogeny, the stage or size an individual reaches at the onset of winter can have a significant effect on its survival and other life‐history characteristics. Generally, temperate amphibian larvae complete metamorphosis in the summer and spend their first winter as juveniles. However, some anuran amphibians show variation in this aspect of their life history, with some individuals remaining as aquatic larvae during winter. We investigated growth and development during the larval period of Rana temporaria at a field where over‐wintering has been recorded. In the laboratory, we investigated whether larval over‐wintering could be induced at temperatures equivalent to those recorded in the field pond; this was done at both high and low food availability. Larvae within the field pond showed a bimodal distribution in developmental stage as early as July, when temperatures were still increasing, separating individuals that would metamorphose and over‐winter as juveniles from those that would spend the winter as larvae. Individuals that over‐wintered as larvae remained at a relatively undeveloped larval stage throughout the summer and autumn. The decision on whether to over‐winter as a larva appears to be made relatively early in the season. Those individuals that adopt this slow developmental trajectory may benefit in being able to metamorphose at a larger size in Spring. In the laboratory, mean temperature and food availability affected development and growth, but did not affect the life‐history stage at which individuals over‐wintered. Our results suggest that there are other factors, in addition to temperature and food availability that contribute to the observed plasticity in development pattern and over‐wintering strategy.
Consumers' switching inertia in a fictitious electricity market
Authors: Gärling Tommy , Gamble Amelie , Juliusson Erlendur Asgeir 
Published: September 2008

AbstractConsumers in the deregulated Swedish electricity market do not switch from their incumbent supplier to the extent that would be economically beneficial. To examine potential causes for this switching inertia, a mail survey was administered to 540 Swedish electricity consumers who were randomly assigned to four experimental conditions and a control condition. Survey participants in the experimental conditions first made a choice of a supplier; then, they made choices between this alternative (their ‘incumbent supplier’) and other alternatives that differed from the incumbent supplier on price, quality of information, market share and availability of ‘green’ electricity. The results showed that lower price, higher quality of information, medium–large market share, and availability of green electricity increased switching to the alternatives to the incumbent supplier. A remaining general preference for choosing the incumbent supplier was reduced by instructions that removed feelings of loyalty and informed about the economic benefits of switching for all consumers.
Selective induction of calcineurin activity and signaling by oligomeric amyloid beta
Authors: Reese Lindsay C. , Zhang WenRu , Dineley Kelly T. , Kayed Rakez , Taglialatela Giulio 
Published: September 2008

SummaryAlzheimer's disease (AD) is a terminal age‐associated dementia characterized by early synaptic dysfunction and late neurodegeneration. Although the presence of plaques of fibrillar aggregates of the amyloid beta peptide (Aβ) is a signature of AD, evidence suggests that the preplaque small oligomeric Aβ promotes both synaptic dysfunction and neuronal death. We found that young Tg2576 transgenic mice, which accumulate Aβ and develop cognitive impairments prior to plaque deposition, have high central nervous system (CNS) activity of calcineurin (CaN), a phosphatase involved in negative regulation of memory function via inactivation of the transcription factor cAMP responsive element binding proteins (CREB), and display CaN‐dependent memory deficits. These results thus suggested the involvement of prefibrillary forms of Aβ. To investigate this issue, we compared the effect of monomeric, oligomeric, and fibrillar Aβ on CaN activity, CaN‐dependent pCREB and phosphorylated Bcl‐2 Associated death Protein (pBAD) levels, and cell death in SY5Y cells and in rat brain slices, and determined the role of CaN on CREB phosphorylation in the CNS of Tg2576 mice. Our results show that oligomeric Aβ specifically induces CaN activity and promotes CaN‐dependent CREB and Bcl‐2 Asociated death Protein (BAD) dephosphorylation and cell death. Furthermore, Tg2576 mice display Aβ oligomers and reduced pCREB in the CNS, which is normalized by CaN inhibition. These findings suggest a role for CaN in mediating effects of oligomeric Aβ on neural cells. Because elevated CaN levels have been reported in the CNS of cognitively impaired aged rodents, our results further suggest that abnormal CaN hyperactivity may be a common event exacerbating the cognitive and neurodegenerative impact of oligomeric Aβ in the aging CNS.
Enhanced glycogenesis is involved in cellular senescence via GSK3/GS modulation
Authors: Seo Yong‐Hak , Jung Hyun‐Jung , Shin Hyun‐Taek , Kim You‐Mie , Yim Hyunee , Chung Hae‐Young , Lim In Kyoung , Yoon Gyesoon 
Published: September 2008

SummaryGlycogen biogenesis and its response to physiological stimuli have often been implicated in age‐related diseases. However, their direct relationships to cell senescence and aging have not been clearly elucidated. Here, we report the central involvement of enhanced glycogenesis in cellular senescence. Glycogen accumulation, glycogen synthase (GS) activation, and glycogen synthase kinase 3 (GSK3) inactivation commonly occurred in diverse cellular senescence models, including the liver tissues of aging F344 rats. Subcytotoxic concentrations of GSK3 inhibitors (SB415286 and LiCl) were sufficient to induce cellular senescence with increased glycogenesis. Interestingly, the SB415286‐induced glycogenesis was irreversible, as were increased levels of reactive oxygen species and gain of senescence phenotypes. Blocking GSK3 activity using siRNA or dominant negative mutant (GSK3β‐K85A) also effectively induced senescence phenotypes, and GS knock‐down significantly attenuated the stress‐induced senescence phenotypes. Taken together, these results clearly demonstrate that augmented glycogenesis is not only common, but is also directly linked to cellular senescence and aging, suggesting GSK3 and GS as novel modulators of senescence, and providing new insight into the metabolic backgrounds of aging and aging‐related pathogenesis.
Parallel lines: nothing has changed?
Authors: Rozing Maarten P. , Westendorp Rudi G. J. 
Published: September 2008

SummaryThe exponential increase in mortality rate with age is a universal feature of aging and is described mathematically by the Gompertz equation. When this equation is transformed semilogarithmically, it conforms to a straight line, the slope of which is generally used to reflect the rate of senescence. Historical and contemporary data of human and nonhuman populations show that adverse environmental conditions do not always change the slope of the log mortality rate over age. From these latter observations it is sometimes mistakenly inferred that the rate of senescence is unaffected by environmental conditions. Current biological inference emphasizes that gene action is dependent on the environment in which it is expressed. Here, we propose using the tangent line of the Gompertz equation to assess whether the rate of senescence has altered. Such an approach unmasks different rates of senescence when parameter G has remained constant, an observation that is in line with the notion that a plastic life history trait such as the rate of senescence results from the interplay of both genes and environment.
Aging is associated with greater nuclear NFκB, reduced IκBα, and increased expression of proinflammatory cytokines in vascular endothelial cells of healthy humans
Authors: Donato Anthony J. , Black Alexander D. , Jablonski Kristen L. , Gano Lindsey B. , Seals Douglas R. 
Published: September 2008

SummaryThe vascular endothelium may develop a proinflammatory profile with aging, but evidence is limited in humans. Expression of inflammatory proteins was determined in vascular endothelial cells (EC) obtained from peripheral veins of 24 young (23 ± 1 years, mean ± SE) and 36 older (63 ± 1) healthy men and women using quantitative immunofluorescence. The older subjects had lower vascular endothelium‐dependent dilation (forearm blood flow responses to acetylcholine, p < 0.05), and higher plasma concentrations of C‐reactive protein, interleukin‐6 (IL‐6), and oxidized low‐density lipoprotein (all p < 0.05), but not tumor necrosis factor‐α (TNF‐α). Total (O: 0.52 ± 0.04 vs. Y: 0.33 ± 0.05 NFκB/HUVEC intensity, p < 0.05) and nuclear (O: 0.59 ± 0.04 vs. Y: 0.41 ± 0.04) expression of nuclear factor κ B p65 (NFκB), a proinflammatory gene transcription factor, was greater in EC from the older subjects (p < 0.05). EC expression of the inhibitor (of nuclear translocation) of NFκB (IκBα) was lower in the older subjects (O: 0.16 ± 0.02 vs. Y: 0.24 ± 0.03, p < 0.05), whereas IκB kinase (IκK) was not different. EC expression of the proinflammatory proteins IL‐6 (O: 0.42 ± 0.06 vs. Y: 0.29 ± 0.03, p < 0.05), TNF‐α (O: 0.52 ± 0.06 vs. Y: 0.33 ± 0.05, p < 0.05) and monocyte chemoattractant protein 1 (MCP‐1) (O: 0.59 ± 0.06 vs. Y: 0.38 ± 0.02, p < 0.05) was greater in the older subjects, whereas cyclooxygenase 2 and the receptor for advanced glycation end‐products did not differ. These findings indicate that impaired function with aging in healthy adults is associated with the development of a proinflammatory phenotype in the vascular endothelium that could be caused in part by reduced IκB‐mediated inhibition of NFκB.