bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Durable Creasing of Wrinkle Resistant Cotton1
Authors: Reid J. David , Reinhardt Robert M. , Kullman Russell M. H. 
Published: March 2007

Research is under way at the Southern Regional Research Laboratory to improve cotton by resin treatment to strengthen its competitive position with respect to other fibers. In preliminary stages of the work, garments were finished using improved formulations and improved methods of curing which yielded garments which are truly wash and wear in that they may be machine laundered, dried, and worn without ironing. Attention is now being concentrated on attempting to perfect a finish aimed particularly at men's "no muss" summer weight dress cotton suits and slacks, an 180 million square yard per year market of which cotton now holds only about 11%. In the phase of the work reported here, both fundamental and practical studies have been conducted on a "recuring" process, proposed by the National Cotton Council of America, in which cotton goods, already treated with resin and cured, are made into garments and aftercured by careful introduction of catalyst. The creases, pleats, cuffs, and so forth are then set by heat curing. Creases so introduced are not as durable to laundering as those which can be set in the fabric on an initial cure, but they compare favorably with those found in worsted wool garments. Two possible mechanisms for the recuring process are suggested and evidence in favor of each hypothesis is given. Results on the recuring of both laboratory and commercially resin-treated cotton fabrics are reported.
Progress Reports on Use and Application of the Nepotometer: Some Factors that Affect Test Results 1
Authors: Markezich Anthony R. , Tallant John D. , Worner Ruby K. 
Published: March 2007

The Nepotometer is in many respects a miniature card designed to simulate on laboratory samples of cotton the effects of actions encountered during the carding opera tion which are largely responsible for nep formation. It was developed at the North Carolina State College School of Textiles. under a contract with the U. S. Department of Agriculture, to predict the nepping potential of cottons. The use of a standard-weight test specimen does not necessarily produce a standard weight web. There may be considerable differences in this respect among different cot tons. For each of eight cottons tested, the web weight and log of neps per grain increased with increase in specimen weight in the region tested between 17.5 and 27.5 grains in clusive, the increases being linear with no indication of curvilinearity. Since evaluations are based on comparison of the webs with appearance standards, the production of a constant weight web in the test is believed to be necessary. The possibility of controlling web weight by consideration of some readily determined property such as Micronaire reading or Fibrograph upper half mean length, or a combination of these, appears promising. Two simple equations have been derived for determining the specimen weight to use for a fixed web weight—one based on Micronaire reading and the other on upper half mean length. Good correlation was found between the log of neps per grain and the photographic standards when the web weights were approximately constant. The regression curve above Grade 1 was essentially a straight line. Neppiness stindards following a regular progression can be obtained from the present photographic grades by adding another grade between the present Grades 1 and 2.
Transmission of Cotton Fiber Strength and Extensibility1.2
Authors: Rebenfeld L. 
Published: March 2007

The breaking tenacities and breaking elongations of six experimental cottons are compared in several textile structures. These structures include single fibers, fiber Pressley bundles, yarns, and fabrics in two constructions. It is shown that the breaking tenacity of single fibers is not fully transmitted to more complex textile structures. The degree of transmission of single fiber strength is not constant for the six cottons, hut is dependent upon the breaking tenacity of the single fibers. The transmission of fiber breaking elongation to more complex textile structures also is found to vary for the six cottons and to be inversely proportional to the single fiber breaking elongation. It is concluded that while the differences among the experimental cottons in fiber strength and extensibility are clearly evident in the textile structure properties, these differences tend to be leveled out by the textile manufacturing operations.
Predicting Ends Down From Small Lot Spinning Tests1
Authors: Woo Henry K. C. 
Published: March 2007

The Poisson frequency function was used to translate the end breakage rate of 35 and 75, 1000 spindles hr, into a series of critical values which would be used to judge spinning performance in small lot spinning tests for various numbers of spindles used. The critical values for various numbers of spindles used were determined graphically from the cumulative frequency of Poisson distribution. A graph of these critical values for various numbers of spindles for the two levels of end-breakage has been constructed for a rapid evaluation of spinning performance.
A Study of Blended Woolen Structures Part V: Methods of Within-Section Blend Analysis1
Authors: Coplan Myron J. , Klein William G. 
Published: March 2007

Statistical implications of the index of blend irregularity have been elaborated, with consequent improved utility of this measure. A more complete characterization of within-section blend distribution is now possible by two new techniques developed. Some new light is shed on the characteristics of fiber clustering and blend irregularity within the sections of woolen wool-nylon yarn.
The Effects of Wear and Laundering on the Wrinkling of Fabrics1
Authors: Wilkinson P.R. , Hoffman R.M. 
Published: March 2007

In a garment, freedom from wrinkling depends upon the ability of the fabric to recover from bending deformations which occur during wear and laundering. During wear, the important variables are the ambient temperature and humidity and the activity of the wearer. Fabrics next to the wearer's body are exposed to temperatures of 90-95° F., to relative humidities of 60-95%, and to pressures up to 2 psi for various times. During laundering, the important conditions are temperatures of 100-140° F. while wet, pressure of 1-2 psi, and deformation times of 4-6 min. followed by temperature changes which may either set wrinkles in or remove them as in tumble drying. The mechanical agitation during washing does not cause wrinkling; it actually assists the fabric to recover from wear wrinkles. Centrifugal spinning to remove water is the major cause of wrinkling in automatic washing machines. Data and information on the above factors can be used in the design of laboratory tests which can currently prediet the performance of wash-wear fabrics. Several new and modified test procedures which are being developed along these lines are described.
The Mechanism of the Loss of Copper from Cotton Fabric During Actinic Breakdown under Conditions of Wetting
Authors: Rose G.R.F. , Clifford J.B. , Bayley C.H. 
Published: March 2007

The factors responsible for the rapid loss of most fungicidal compounds from treated cotton fabric subjected to weathering outdoors include water-solubility of the compound. actinic breakdown of the compound or the substrate, reaction between compound and substrate, migration of compound, and mechanical loss of compound. Experiments designed to study the above factors are described in which bleached cotton fabric untreated and treated with copper carbonate was subjected to the action of continuous water leaching and to intermittent leaching and drying; the loss of copper and amount of chemical deterioration were determined. Intermittent leaching and drying increased both breakdown and loss of copper. In experiments in which similar samples were exposed to light containing moderate amounts of radiation in the region of 3000-4000 Å the presence of copper was found to enhance the deterioration. Loss of copper caused by water leaching following ex posure, or by intermittent exposure and leaching, increased with increasing exposure to light. Exposure of similar samples to light with intermittent dampening with water, with or without drying prior to re-exposure, increased the tendency of the copper to be removed by subsequent water leaching. There is evidence of marked migration of copper in these experiments. the loss of copper noted in these experiments appears to involve solubilization of the copper by the oxidation products of the cotton cellulose.
Blending Cottons Differing in Fiber Bundle Break Elongation
Authors: Louis Gain L. , Fiori Louis A. , Sands Jack E. 
Published: March 2007

Two long staple cottons, differing in fiber bundle break elongation but having other pertinent fiber properties substantially equal, were blended in different percentages to permit a study of the effects of break-elongation on yarn properties and spinning etbciency. Yarn strength and elongation were affected by fiber elongation, with fibers having the highest fiber elongation exerting the greatest influence. Furthermore, nep formation increased linearly as the percentage of higher elongation cotton increased in the blend, indicating that neps are directly influenced by average fiber stiffness. It was also found that yarn toughness index correlated closely with yarn impact data, thus suggesting its possible substitution for yarn impact data. The inconsistency of end breakage of the warp and hlling yarns during spinning offered no conclusive evidence as to the relative spinnability of the cottbns and cotton blends investigated.
The in Situ Polymerization of Ethylene Ureas and Ethylene Amides Within the Fibers of Cotton
Authors: Jones F.B. , Hammon H.G. , Leininger R.I. , Heiligmann R.G. 
Published: March 2007

A research program has been carried out to investigate a new approach to cotton finishing. This approach has involved a study of various diaziridinyl compounds, such as those obtained by reacting ethylene imine with org-anic diisocyanates, diacid chlorides, and bischloroformates as potential cross-linking agents for cotton cellulose to produce "minimum care" or "wash-wear" fabric finishes. Over 25 different aziridinyl com pounds were prepared experimentally and screened for utility on the basis of water solubility and effect on such fabric properties as crease-recovery angle, tear strength, breaking strength and elongation, flex abrasion, washfastness, and chlorine retention. The experimental finishes were applied to an 80 X 80-count cotton print cloth, using . laboratory-size padding and drying equipment. The diaziridinyl compounds based on aliphatic diisocyanates and bischloroformates were found to demonstrate the greatest utility for the contemplated application, particu larly those compounds prepared from hexaniethylene-1,6-diisocyanate and mono- and diethylene glycol bischloroformate precursors. Increases in crease-recovery angle in the range of 30-60% were achieved with these finishes under conditions of application generally similar to those employed for commercial polymethylol type finishes. While these particular diaziridinyl finishes impart considerable crease resistance to cotton cloth, they were found to generally cause less impairment of other fabric prop erties than an experimentally applied commercial polymethylol cotton finish (CEU resin). The diaziridinyl finishes, being nitrogen-containing compounds, demonstrate a strong tendency to retain chlorine after chlorine bleaching. Further development of curing techniques for application of these finishes should be considered as a possible means of reducing chlorine retention.
On Changes in the Weight Distribution Function of Artificial Fibers Due to Random Fiber Breakage
Authors: Byatt W.J. 
Published: March 2007

It is possible to prepare artificial fibers so that each of them has, initially, the same length. This possibility simplifies the mathematical treatment of the subsequent ran dom time breakage, as in ginning. Upper and lower bounds to an exact expression for the time-dependent weight distribution function, W(l, t), are found. Under certain conditions, the bounds coalesce to the exact solution W(l, t). The usefulness of the approximations found for testing the theory and in finding cer tain transition probabilities associated with fiber decay is discussed.
The Effect of Speed of Drafting, in Terms of Spindle Speed, on Skein Breaking Strength of Cotton Yarns Spun on the Double-Apron System
Authors: Audivert R. , Vidiella J.E. 
Published: March 2007

This is an account of work primarily intended to find the effect of speed of drafting, associated with spindle speed, on yarn breaking strength. To this end, yarns were spun from a series of rovings widely different in size, with a series of twist multipliers, and a range of spindle speeds. The results showed that, for the 6000 to 12,000 rpm range there was an increase in strength with increasing spindle speed. At speeds below this range a minimum in strength was found between 4000 and 5000 rpm. Other findings: strength decreased with increase in roving twist above normal values, and thinner rovings gave stronger yarns under the particular conditions of these experiments.
The Relationship between Fabric Structure and Ease-of-Care Performance of Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Abbott N.J. 
Published: March 2007

The study described herein was undertaken to determine the extent to which the ease- of-care performance of resin-treated cotton fabrics was affected by changes in fabric construction. Ease-of-care performance was estimated by measuring wrinkling during automatic wash-tumble dry cycles: wrinkle recovery and fabric stiffness under a wide variety of atmospheric conditions including two temperatures, three relative humidities, and, in the case of wet wrinkle recovery, two water temperatures: and, finally, tearing strength, Twenty-one cotton fabric constructions were treated both in the unmercerized and mer cerized states with DMEU and APO wash-wear resins. When resin treatment followed mercerization, substantial improvements in tearing strength were obtained. The best cotton fabric construction for all-round ease-of-care performance is one which permits the maximum degree of yarn mobility without excessive loss of hand. Ten of the fabrics were selected for a study of the interrelationships among wash-wear performance, wrinkle recovery and flexural rigidity. The best correlation between wash-wear rating and wrinkle recovery was obtained when the wrinkle recovery meas urements were made at 120° F, 15% RH. However, although the ability to recover from wrinkling is of prime importance in determining wash-wear performance, it is shown that fabric stiffness also has an important influence. the higher the fabric stiff ness, for a given fiber type, the lower the wrinkle recovery angle may be, for the same wash-wear performance. Because an inverse correlation exists between wrinkle recovery and flexural rigidity for tightly woven fabrics, the evaluation of both characteristics before estimating wash-wear performance is desirable.
Free Radical Cross-Linking of Synthetic Polymers on Cotton Textiles
Authors: Gonzales Elwood J. , Bullock Joel B. , Welch Clark M. 
Published: March 2007

A variety of saturated thermoplastic polymers have been cross-linked as interfiber coatings on cotton fabric, without the cotton cellulose. the polymer with catalytic amounts of benzoyl peroxide or 2,4-dichlorobenzoyl peroxide on fabric at 100-165° C caused fixation of the coatings within a few minutes. Polyvinyl esters, acetals and ethers, and linear aliphatic polyesters were used. Copolymers of vinyl chloride with vinyl esters and with alkyl acrylates were also found applicable. The efficiency of polymer insolubility was 60-80% and was independent of the fabric used. whether cotton, glass, paper. Orlon,2 nylon, Dacron,3 or acetate rayon, Grafting of polymer to substrate apparently did not occur. Multiple layers of cross-linked coatings were readily formed. Application of poly(vinyl stearate) at add-ons of 4-30% imparted considerable water repellency to cotton and moderately increased the flex abrasion re sistance, while leaving air permeability, breaking strength, and tearing strength essen tially unchanged, Most of the polymer was located in interfiber spaces within individual yarns. Protection of interfiber bonding in cellulose from disruption by water occurred when cross-linked vinyl chloride-alkyl acrylate coatings were used.
Thermal Transitions in Keratin
Authors: Mason P. 
Published: March 2007

Wool fibers in water at room temperature were extended by constant loads chosen to produce extensions in the range 0% to 25%. After relaxation for 1 hr, the tempera ture was increased to 100° C at a constant rate of approximately 1° C/min. The length of the specimens increased progressively with the temperature; the increase was taken as a measure of a transformation in the fibers, which embodies both the normal α β phase transition of α-helical proteins as well as other structural changes which may contribute to the free energy of the transition in keratin. On reduction of the temperature from a higher to lower value, there was generally no recovery of length, although in comparable experiments at constant extension there was a considerable recovery of the force. Under the present conditions, it was not possible to observe the length changes cor responding to the complete transformation. However, families of curves for arbitrary small extensions were obtained for different stresses and used to calculate "effective" thermodynamic parameters appropriate to the time scale of the experiments. The entropy of transition was found to be 6 cal/deg mole of residues, and the heat of transi tion was 3 kcal/mole of residues. Treatment by formaldehyde or by an anionic detergent appeared to elevate the tem perature range of the transition region, whereas permanently setting the fiber or testing at pH 1 depressed it. Measurements on unmodified wool fibers in water at different temperatures indicated the existence of a viscous flow mechanism with an apparent activation energy of 28 kcal/mole.
Measurement of Opacity in Fibers
Authors: Brody H. , Quynn R.G. 
Published: March 2007

A light-transmission measurement was developed to compare opacities of experimental nylon 6-T fibers. A fixed concentration of chopped-up fibers was suspended in a mixture of organic liquids, which matched the average refractive index and density of the fibers, to suppress surface scattering and to prevent settling. The transmission of any given sample showed a spectral dependence, i.e., decrease of transmission with decreasing wavelength, indicating that the size of the scattering unit was of the order of magnitude of the wavelength of visible liglit. This dependence, as measured with a Beckman spectrophotometer, was analyzed by a semi-theoretical ap proach to yield values of n, the wavelength exponent appearing in the scattering law. The values of n obtained lay between about 0.9 and 2.3 and decreased on boiling, which was to be expected theoretically if the size of the scatterer was increasing. There was a rough correlation, with all the samples, between the n values and the percent transmission at a fixed wavelength, indicating that the differences in "voidiness" among the different fibers were a function of the size of the light scattering unit. The transmission showed a good inverse correlation with V, the void volume, as calculated from density measurements, assuming a melt-spun sample to be void-free. This suggested that the opacity was indeed caused by voids and not by other kinds of light scatterers—spherulites, gels, etc. There was an excellent correlation between transmission and the quantity V/n, which emphasized the dual dependence of opacity on total void volume and void size.
Calculation of Finishing Effects on Cotton on the Basis of a Padding, Weave, and Cross-Linking Function1
Authors: Ruttiger W.A. 
Published: March 2007

Up to now, there has been a lack of a physical-chemical function which would establish a link between the formulation of a procedure for a conventional wash-and-wear finish and the properties of the finished fabric after it has been given a household laundering. It appeared reasonably possible to work out a general function, provided excessive ac curacy was not called for. This function was arrived at by coordinating both precisely defined and approximate expressions. Details are given. The amount of cross-linking agent taken up can be calculated from the given formula tion and padding data by means of the "impregnation function." The diffusion proc esses which occur during contact with the liquor and which can be ascertained theo retically only with great difficulty can be represented by an experimentally determinable integrated factor, the "exchange coefficient." The attainable degree of finish for cotton, i.e., the crease recovery angle,' can be determined by means of the "cross-linking function," taking into account the yield of the condensation reaction and the loss in strength. The experimental basis and the range of validity of this function and its dependence on the nature of the fabric ("weave function") are dealt with in detail. Finally, the self-smoothing effect (Monsanto rating) can be given in relation to house hold laundering methods (from drip to tumble drying) by employing empirical conver sion curves. The functions are, at present, being applied to selected practical cases by means of an analog computer in order to test the utilizability of this new system of functions for re search and development purposes.
Thermal Transitions in Keratin
Authors: Mason P. 
Published: March 2007

A method is described for measuring lateral load-deformation relations of fibers. The results of tests on Lincoln wool fibers are given, for aqueous test liquids at pH 2.1, 6, and 9.1, and for fibers treated with formaldehyde, with an anionic detergent, and with mercuric acetate. In water at 20° C the shear modulus (for loading times of several seconds) is near to 2 X 108 dynes/cm2 and does not vary greatly with the chemical treatment or the acidity of the test liquid. As the temperature increases, the shear modulus slowly decreases. At a certain temperature, approximately 80° C for this Lincoln wool in water, the modulus starts to decrease much more rapidly with temperature. This transition is accentuated and dis placed to lower temperatures at pH 9.1 or by the treatment with mercuric acetate. Measurements of viscous flow under constant load were also obtained. Between 70° and 100° C the native wool fibers show a viscosity of the order of 1011-1012 poise, with an activation energy of about 26 kcl/mole. Some structural implications of these phenomena are discussed.
Comparison of Young's Modulus for Bending and Extension of Single Mohair and Kemp Fibers
Authors: King N.E. 
Published: March 2007

The bending and extension moduli of single mohair and kemp fibers have been deter mined and compared. Previous results are not consistent—bending moduli values rang ing from larger-than to smaller-than the values obtained by stretching. Moduli for bending and stretching of mohair were found not to differ significantly, while kemp fibers can be divided into two distinct bending moduli groups, depending, ap parently, on the structure of the medulla. The medulla of these kemp fibers may be solid or hollow (semi-solid), yielding two different results for bending. Stretching moduli for all kemp fibers do not differ significantly and are comparable with the bend ing moduli of hollow fibers only.