bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Some aspects of hair regreasing
Authors: MAES D. , LEDUC M. , NADVORNIK I. M. , REINSTEIN J. A. , TUREK B. A. , VIEU M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA multi‐technique evaluation of the hair regreasing process is described. Preliminary experimentation in vitro was followed by a long‐term in vivo study conducted on a single subject having greasy hair. First, a shampoo for very greasy hair and one for dry hair were applied to the left and right sides of the head respectively (split‐head test) for 7 weeks; then a shampoo for greasy hair was applied to the entire head (whole‐head test) for 5 weeks. Three parameters were studied: (1) hair spacing, determined by means of a special device; (2) regreasing of individual hairs, measured using the contact‐reprint technique; (3) the amount of sebum extracted from individual hairs, performed by g.l.c. determination of squalene. Results obtained during the split‐head period showed that the shampoo for very greasy hair showed higher average hair spacing, slower progression of regreasing, and better sebum‐removal efficiency when compared to the shampoo for dry hair. During the whole‐head test period with one shampoo, results showed that there was consistent asymmetry as regards hair spacing and progression of regreasing. These results support our hypothesis concerning the role of interfacial forces in the hair regreasing process. Différents aspects du regraissage des cheveux
Cosmetics and the principle of risk acceptability
Authors: ABBE NORMAN J. VAN 
Published: May 2007

Résumé Les produits cosmétiques et le principe d'acceptabilité des risques L'article 2 de la Directive de la C.E.E. 76/768 du 27 Juillet 1976 stipule que les produits cosmétiques mis sur le marchéà l'intérieur de la Communauté ne doivent pas être susceptibles de nuire à la santé humaine lorsqu'ils sont appliqués dans les conditions normales d'utilisation.II n'est pas possible d'atteindre le niveau de risque zéro, et il faut donc décider d'un risque acceptable pour les produits cosmétiques.Ce niveau doit être établi après expérimentation sur un échantillon de consommateurs qui peuvent être exposés au risque.II est courant d'évaluer le poids respectif du risque et du bénéfice résultant de l'utilisation de produits pharmaceutiques. Cette notion ne doit pas étre transposée aux cosmétiques qui doivent être examinés par comparaison à d'autres formes de risques gnéralement reconnus comme acceptables socialement.Mr. N.J. van Abbe (left) receiving the Silver Medal for his 1979 Medal Lecture from the Society's President, Dr P.J. Wilson (right).
Allergic and toxic reactions caused by cream bases in dermatological patients
Authors: HANNUKSELA MATTI 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisIrritant and allergic reactions from cream bases observed in eczema patients are reviewed. The frequency of allergic reactions to the ingredients of vehicles in eczema patients is an indication of allergic potential for normal skin. Against this background, hypoallergenic fragrances are still very difficult to produce and a proper mixture for epicutaneous testing is lacking. Among preservatives, parabens are obviously safer and less allergenic than chlorocresol and sorbic acid.Propylene glycol (PG) is very popular for its many beneficial properties. However, it is also an irritant and a sensitiser. The exact number of allergic delayed type reactions is difficult to establish because primary irritant epicutaneous test reactions often closely resemble allergic reactions. By doing epicutaneous tests with serial dilutions of PG and by making peroral challenge tests, the number of eczema patients allergic to PG has been estimated to be as high as 1%. Glycerol is much less active in producing toxic and allergic skin reactions.Common non‐ionic emulsifiers and higher fatty alcohols cause allergic contact dermatitis occasionally. The allergenic properties of these substances have not yet been examined experimentally. It seems, however, that there are only small differences between the various emulsifying agents. Les allergies et réactions de toxicité causées par les constituants des crèmes sur les sujets atteints de dermatoses
Skin irritancy testing of toiletries and cosmetics on novel human models
Authors: VICKERS C. F. H. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA brief review of new techniques of assessing skin irritancy is presented. Some of the difficulties of assessing minor degrees of irritancy are discussed. Nouvelles méthodes pour l'évaluation sur l'être humain du pouvoir irritant des produits cosmetiques at d'hygiene
A relationship between foaming and H.L.B. value
Authors: BADWAN A.A. , CHAM T.M. , JAMES K.C. , PUGH W.J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe foaming properties of solutions of purified samples of the C10 to C18 even‐numbered sodium alkyl sulphates in water have been studied using three methods of foam generation. Foam volumes increased with increase in surfactant concentration, and reached a limiting value at the C.M.C. At post‐C.M.C. concentrations, foam volumes increased to a maximum with temperature, and then decreased. The point at which the maximum occurred, the maximum foam temperature (M.F.T.), varied from one surfactant to another, but was independent of the experimental method. M.F.T. was inversely proportional to the hydrophile‐lipophile balance (H.L.B.) value. The corresponding triethanolamine salts behaved in the same way. Similar results were observed with non‐ionics, but the plots of H.L.B. value against M.F.T. were positive.Relation entre le pouvoir moussant et la valeur H.L.B.
Evaluation de la dynamique des dystrophies du cheveu par la microscopie optique et électronique à balayage
Authors: PIERARD G. E. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisDes dystrophies du cheveu sont acquises ou ont un déterminisme génétique. Elles peuvent être isolées ou associées à un trouble du cycle de croissance. Quelles que soient les anomalies, elles peuvent toutes être aisément reconnues sur un trichogramme et leur microanatomie précisée par l'observation en microscopie électronique à balayage.Une interprétation pathogénique peut être proposée pour certaines dystrophies se marquant par une modification du calibre du cheveu. En effet, un dysmorphisme pilaire aura pour cause une altération frappant soit les cellules kératinisées, soit les cellules métaboliquement actives. Dans le premier cas, un traumatisme physique ou chimique altère la structure des cellules kératinisées du cheveu après son émergence de la peau.Dans le deuxième cas, la perturbation génétique ou acquise se marque au niveau des cellules matricielles ou en voie de différenciation. Elle est le reflet d'une perte de contrôle de l'homéostasie de croissance du cheveu sous la dépendance de la forme et du volume de la matrice (donc de la papille), de la proportion de cellules inscrites dans le cycle de division cellulaire, de la durée du cycle, de l'augmentation de volume de chaque cellule pendant sa différenciation et de sa vitesse de migration. Evaluation of the dynamics of hair dystrophy by optical and scanning electron microscopy SummaryThe size and shape of a segment of a hair are two fairly constant parameters. Their homeostasis reflects a precise regulation of the size and shape of the matrix (therefore of the papilla), of the proportion of cells normally engaged in the cycle of cellular division, of the duration of this cycle, of the increase in the average volume of cells during differentiation, and of their speed of migration. Any disturbance in this precise pattern causes dystrophies that are acquired or genetically determined. These abnormalities in hair structure can be observed and recognised by optical and by scanning electron microscopy.The metabolic pathology acting through the matrix cells has to be differentiated from other alterations induced on the hair shaft by physical or chemical agents. These latter alterations can be present all along the hair shaft after its emergence from the skin or rise in tiers. These injuries are cumulative, irreversible and increase fragility and brittleness of the hair shaft.
Le vieillissement, son expression au niveau de la microanatomie et des propriétés physiques de la peau
Authors: PIERARD G. E. , FRANCHIMONT C. , LAPIERE CH. M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisL'aspect et les qualités physiques de la peau varient avec l'âge de l'individu. Ces propriétés dépendent de la microstructure des divers tissus, et en particulier de la couche cornée, de la couche de Malpighi, du derme adventitiel, du derme réticulaire et de l'hypoderme.Ces caractéristiques microanatomiques et fonctionnelles peuvent être examinées en microscopie électronique à balayage sur des tissus soumis à des tensions variables. Ageing as shown by the microanatomy and the physical properties of the skin SummaryThe aspect and the physical properties of skin vary with age. These properties depend on the microstructure of the tissues, namely the stratum corneum, the malpighian layer, the adventitial dermis, the reticular dermis and the hypodermis.These microanatomical and functional characteristics can be observed by scanning electron microscopy on tissues under variable strain.
Attitude du dermatologue devant la peau grasse
Authors: CHIVOT M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisLa séborrhée constitue un terrain sur lequel peuvent se développer des complications à type d'acné ou d'infections à levures. Mais elle représente à elle seule un désordre dont les traitements médicaux sont actuellement peu satisfaisants.L'acné et les infections à levures sont des affections cutanees pour lesquelles il existe actuellement des traitements efficaces, mais purement suspensifs et nécessitent donc un traitement d'entretien sous peine de récidive.SummarySeborrhea is a problem which ought to be corrected in view of its inacceptability for aesthetic reasons as well as for the complications which can follow, particularly those of acne.The medical treatments of seborrhea are not entirely satisfactory. Products for treating seborrhea do not give complete satisfaction due to secondary effects. When the dosages employed are sufficient to have an effect they are also contraindicated, especially in the female. Cosmetic treatments have considerable benefit and are completely innocuous.The treatment of acne is based on the inhibition of bacterial colonization of the pilo‐sebaceous follicle (tetracycline, erythromycine and benzoyl peroxide) as well as by treatments which modify keratinization (vitamin A acid as well as salicylic acid and resorcin).Yeast infections appearing on oily skins are easily treated by classic fungicides. These two diseases associated with oily skin recur continually and require a maintenance therapy.
Antioxidant properties of wax from Yugoslavian oakmoss (Evernia prunastri)
Authors: RACINE PH. , HARTMANN V. E. , D'AUDIFFRET Y. TOLLARD 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisWax from Yugoslavian oakmoss resulting from the industrial benzene extraction of the vegetable matter was extracted by solvents of different polarities. The wax and the extracts were tested for antioxidant activities using (+) limonene as peroxidizable test substrate and were found to have such activity. The extracts are more active than the wax itself. Although not directly usable because of still too low activity, the wax and the extracts contain a small amount of substance with antioxidant activity comparable to that of the usual synthetic antioxidants.
Metabolisme des androgénes dans la peau humaine
Authors: KUTTENN FRÉDERIQUE , MAUVAIS‐JARVIS PIERRE 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisLa peau possède toutes les protéines impliquées dans le mécanisme d'action des androgènes, et le métabolisme de ces androgènes y joue un rôle capital: non seulement la peau est le siège de la 5α‐réductase qui transforme la testostérone en son métabolite actif la DHT, mais elle peut aussi produire de la testostérone à partir d'androgenes moins actifs: Δ4‐androstènedione et dehydroépiandrostérone.L'activité de la 5α‐réductase est variable selon les régions: elle est élevée d'emblée et dans les deux sexes au niveau des organes génitaux externes, quelle que soit la sécrétion d'androgenes. Elle s'élève à la puberté, surtout dans le sexe masculin, et apparaît androgéno‐dépendante, au niveau des zones à caractére sexuel secondaire et notamment du follicule pilo‐sébacé.Les modèles pathologiques viennent confirmer l'importance de cette étape métabolique: le déficit en 5α‐réductase est cause de pseudohermaphrodisme masculin, son excés d'activité est responsable d'hirsutisme idiopathique.La connaissance des diverses étapes du mécanisme d'action des androgènes est indispensable à toute tentative thérapeutique qu'elle soit androgénique ou anti‐androgénique, systémique ou topique.SummaryIn human beings, androgen metabolism plays an important role in mediating the action of male hormones upon target structures of the skin. First, human skin is capable of transforming inactive steroids supplied through the blood, such as androstenedione and dehydroisoandrosterone, into the active androgen testosterone. Second, human skin is able to reduce testosterone to 5α‐DHT, an essential prerequisite, during embryogenesis, for the male differentiation of target structures derived from urogenital sinus. At puberty, hair growth in sexual areas of skin also requires the transformation of testosterone to DHT.Regulation of 5α‐reductase activity varies according to the anatomical site of the enzyme. In foetuses, 5α‐reductase activity present in tissues derived from the urogenital tract does not seem to be androgen‐dependent, since it is acquired before the onset of testosterone secretion by foetal testis. By contrast, the enzyme that mediates development of certain secondary sex characteristics, such as pilosebaceous gland activity in sexual areas, is clearly androgen‐dependent, since it is absent before puberty and in persons with hypogonadism.These differences in the control of the 5α‐reductase activity mediating the appearance of either primary or secondary sex characteristics are important and may explain the differences in 5a‐reductase activity observed in adult skin of both sexes derived from different sexual areas.In addition, the knowledge of androgen relation to the skin is necessary in order to understand the action of the anti‐androgens, particularly the compounds which may be used by topical administration.
Studies on the mechanism of topical anhidrosis due to polyvalent cations
Authors: MICHNIAK B. B. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisAlthough eccrine sweat glands are present in the foot pads of many mammals, and are abundant in the general body skin of many of the higher primates, it is only in man that these glands have a thermoregulatory function and are cosmetically significant. The expansion in sales of various antiperspirant products containing complexes of aluminium and zirconium has resulted in many studies, whose aim is to elucidate the mode of action of these substances.Sweat production in the rat foot pad in vivo has been studied, and its modification following topical application of various polyvalent cations. Results of studies of protein precipitation by these cations are also discussed. Etude de l'action de certains cations polyvalents sur l'anhidrose cutanée.
L'acide pyrrolidone carboxylique (PCA) et la peau
Authors: CLAR E.J. , FOURTANIER A. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisUne recherche bibliographique des données de la littérature médicale fait le point sur le métabolisme et le rôle possible de l'acide pyrrolidone carboxylique (PCA) et de son sel de sodium (PCNa) dans la peau, particulièrement au niveau du Stratum Corneum. L'article présente également une série d'évaluations biophysiques (impédance et relaxation α) et cliniques des propriétés hydratantes des crèmes ou lotions contenant l'acide et/ou son sel.II est maintenant acquis que le couple PCA/PCNa est un agent hydratant efficace et que toutes les préparations cosmétiques qui en contiennent au moins 2% ont un effet bénéfique sur les peaux sèches à condition que le véhicule utilisé pénètre dans les couches superficielles du Stratum Corneum (les solutions aqueuses ne conviennent pas). Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and the skin SummaryThe medical and biological literature was reviewed with stress laid on the role of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) and its sodium salt (NaPCA) in skin, its metabolism, its functions.The paper also includes a summary of 8 years of evaluation work carried out in our Laboratory on creams and lotions containing PCA‐NaPCA which were assessed by biophysical (impedance measurement, α relaxation) and clinical methods.It is now definitely demonstrated that PCA is an hydrating agent and that all the cosmetic preparations containing at least 2% of the PCA‐NaPCA salt system improve the condition of dry skin at short or long term provided an adequate vehicle is used (e.g. aqueous solutions are ineffective).The mecanism of action is discussed with reference to metabolism and physiological role of PCA in stratum corneum.
Etude expérimental de l'hypersensibilité cutanée à la lanoline et à deux de ses dérivés utilisés en cosmétologie
Authors: BOURRINET P. , BERKOVIC A. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisParmi les avertissements apparus nécessaires à la protection de l'utilisateur et devant figurer sur les récipients, emballages ou notices des produits cosmétiques et d'hygiène corporelle, il en est un concernant la lanoline. La réglementation prévoit l'inscription de la mention ‘important contient de la lanoline'. Des réactions cutanées de type allergique ont été rencontrées ces dernières années apèes application de produits contenant de la lanoline ou des dérivés de lanoline, alors que la lanoline est utilisée depuis très longtemps.Ces pourquoi les auteurs ont voulu vérifier expérimentalement chez le Cobaye l'hypersensibilité cutanée à la lanoline et à ses dérivés, et notamment aux alcools gras de lanoline qui sont incriminés par de nombreux auteurs.Aucune réaction n'a été observée avec une lanoline purifiée, même si celle‐ci est ancienne.Une faible potentialité d'allergénicité a été mise en évidence avec un dérivé semiliquide. Des réactions de sensibilisation ont été observées avec un échantillon d'alcools gras de lanoline.Ces résultats sont analysés et comparés à ceux publiés dans la littérature. Cutaneous hypersensitivity tests in guinea‐pig of lanolin and derivatives used in cosmetology SummaryAmong the warnings which are now necessary in Europe for the protection of the consumer and which must appear on the packagings of cosmetic and corporal hygiene products, there is one concerning lanolin. The regulation requires the mention ‘Important, this product contains lanolin'. Cutaneous allergic reactions have been reported in the last few years after application of products containing lanolin or lanolin derivatives although lanolin has been used for a long time.The paper describes tests of cutaneous hypersensitivity on the guinea‐pig with lanolin, lanolin alcohol and a semi‐liquid lanolin.No reaction was observed with a purified lanolin, even if it was old.A weak allergenic effect was shown with the semi‐liquid derivative. Sensitization reactions were observed with a sample of lanolin fatty alcohols.These results were analysed and compared to those published in literature.
The effects of cosmetics on person perception
Authors: GRAHAM JEAN ANN , JOUHAR A. J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe study reported here forms part of an investigation of what psychological benefits, if any, exist for the user of cosmetics.A central theme in the work on physical attractiveness is that if one is physically attractive one is assumed to have a more ideal personality than someone of lesser attractiveness.If cosmetics really do make people look more physically attractive, then with the use of cosmetics others should perceive people more favourably in terms of personality characteristics.This study, therefore, attempted to find out whether cosmetics really do improve appearance ratings (by males and females) and in result improve ratings of personality.Colour photographs of four female stimulus persons of average physical attractiveness in each of four modes (neither make‐up nor hair care; make‐up but no hair care; no make‐up but hair care; both make‐up and hair care) were evaluated by a judge panel of sixteen males and sixteen females. The amount, extent and style of use of facial make‐up and hair care was no more than would be in everyday use.Each judge saw one stimulus person in each mode but no stimulus person in more than one mode in a counter‐balanced design, using 7‐point rating scales of six appearance and fourteen personality dimensions.Two hypotheses were confirmed:

The use of cosmetics (facial make‐up and hair care) leads to more favourable appearance ratings by others (both males and females). For make‐up there were more favourable ratings on all of the six appearance scales, and for hair care there were more favourable ratings on four of the six appearance scales.
The use of cosmetics leads to more favourable ratings of personality as perceived by others (both males and females). Facial make‐up enhanced ratings on eight of the fourteen personality dimensions tested and hair treatment led to more favourable ratings on ten of the scales.

It is not certain from this study whether persons using cosmetics are rated more favourably than without cosmetics because they are seen as more physically attractive and in result acquire more favourable ratings for attributes which are associated with being physically attractive or whether there is a direct effect on perceived personality, independent of enhancement of physical attractiveness, or both.Either explanation is possible, though there is some support for the idea that the use of cosmetics (or at least hair care) may have a direct effect on perceived personality.If this were so, it would suggest the existence of a separate positive cosmetic stereotype which carries its own concept ‘what has been cared for is good’. This stereotype would form an extension of the ‘what is beautiful is good’ stereotype for physical attractiveness. Otherwise, and as a result of the work reported here, the latter might become ‘what has been made beautiful is good’, when cosmetics are used.
The determination of N‐nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) at trace levels in shampoos and skin creams by a simple, rapid colorimetric method
Authors: TELLING G. M. , DUNNETT P. C. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA technique is described for the rapid determination of N‐nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) in shampoos, skin creams and similar products based on aqueous extraction, partition into ethyl acetate and colorimetric determination using the Eisenbrand‐Preussman cleavage reaction.Recoveries of NDELA added at levels of 5–100 μg kg−1 to a range of shampoo and cream types ranged from 90–101%. The limit of determination for the method is 2.5 μg kg−1. Observations on the application of a thermal energy analyser linked to a gas chromatograph are also reported.Application of the technique to a survey of a wide range of shampoo and skin cream types showed that levels of total N‐nitroso compounds were less than 30 μg kg−1 in < 90% of samples and, in many cases, less than 2.5 μg kg‐1. Dosage des traces de N‐nitrosodiethanolamine dans les shampooings et crèmes
A method for evaluating the photoprotective action of sunscreens against UV‐A radiation
Authors: GROVES G. A. , FORBES P. D. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe present methods of assessing the photoprotective action of sunscreens against UV‐A radiation have been reviewed. A more rapid and precise method using anthracene and the hairless mouse has been developed. The method is specific for UV‐A radiation. Une méthode pour évaluer l'action photoprotectrice des filtres solaires à l'encontre du rayonnement UV‐A