bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Skin permeability to aromatic carboxylic acids: an in vitro comparison in pig ear, white mouse and brown mouse
Authors: DYER A. , AZIZA M. A. E. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA comparative study in vitro was undertaken for pig ear, white mouse, and brown mouse in which the percutaneous absorption of the following compounds, labelled with 14C‐carboxyl, were studied: benzoic acid, 2‐methylbenzoic acid, and 4‐methylbenzoic acid. The effects of temperature on the penetration through various skin membranes have been evaluated. The possible influences of chemical structure on transport across the skin were discussed. The results indicated that brown mouse skin was the most permeable membrane to all acids. Introduction of the methyl group to the aromatic ring, in the ortho and in the para positions, increased the diffusion coefficients for the benzoic acid.
Hydrolysed ginseng‐saponin quaternary: a novel conditioning agent for hair care products
Authors: YOUNG‐DAE KIM , CHANG‐KEW KIM , CHUNG‐NAM LEE , BYUNG‐JO HA 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA new quaternary ammonium compound, hydrolysed ginseng‐saponin quaternary (HGSQ), from Korean ginseng saponin and 2,3‐epoxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, has been developed as a conditioning agent for hair care products. This structure has a hydrophobic group from the aglycone of ginseng saponin which is biologically active and considered as the most important component of Korean ginseng. Its properties of surface tension, conductivity, critical micelle concentration (CMC), eye irritation, sorption onto hair, tensile strength for 20% extension and moisture retention effect were studied. Its cationic character allows the molecule to be more substantive than ginseng saponin. HGSQ had good physical properties and was safe enough as a cosmetic raw material. Also half‐head tests of HGSQ‐containing shampoo were carried out to evaluate the conditioning effects in shampoos. HGSQ showed good conditioning properties in a shampoo.
Contributions to the chemistry of human hair: III. Protein chemical aspects of permanent waving treatments
Authors: HILTERHAUS‐BONG SABINE , ZAHN HELMUT 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe influence of permanent waving on hair proteins was studied in order to obtain additional information about the chemistry of this cosmetic treatment. It was shown by amino acid analysis that with increasing reduction time during treatment fewer disulphide bonds were reformed in hair during subsequent reoxidation. Simultaneously, an increasing amount of sulphur‐containing material is liberated from the hair, as demonstrated by the sulphur balance calculated from the sulphur‐containing amino acids. The amount liberated is increased when an extensive soaking of the samples in water between the reduction and reoxidation step is performed. Comparing treatments with the use of reducing solutions of pH values between 7.5 and 10.0, it was found that the largest amount of cystine cleavage occurs at pH 9.0. All hair samples reduced at pH values above pH 8.5 showed incomplete reformation of the disulphide bonds during subsequent reoxidation. This was indicated by the content of free SH‐groups and cysteic acid, as quantified by amino acid analysis. The damage to the hair proteins due to permanent waving was further confirmed by the determination of the pronase solubility. The reductive treatment of hair at pH 7.5 led to a relatively low degree of reduction, however all sulphur bonds were reformed during subsequent reoxidation.
Structure/activity relationships in contact allergy
Authors: BASKETTER D.A. , ROBERTS D.W. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisTo minimise consumer risk of allergic contact dermatitis, predictive testing may need to be carried out. An alternative approach examining physicochemical properties of substances, and from these trying to assess sensitization potential, formed the basis of a model described by Roberts and Williams [1]. The concept related electrophilic reactivity (k), the partition coefficient (P) and dose (D) in a term which described a relative alkylation index (RAI). This was shown to correlate well with experimental data for sultones and p‐nitrobenzyl halides: RAI =kD/(P±P2) (1)In recent studies of dose response relationships, the ‘overload effect’ predicted by Roberts and Williams is demonstrable. However, the simple relationship above omits two potentially important parameters, ‘intrinsic antigenicity’ of a chemical and activation in skin of an apparently unreactive chemical. Data on the sensitization potential of alkyl transfer agents shows that for small haptens, intrinsic antigenicity may depend in part on the nature of modifications to carrier protein tertiary structure. The ability of skin to metabolise 1,4‐substituted benzene derivatives in vivo appears even more complex than suggested [2], involving a spectrum of reactive intermediates characteristic of each molecule.These results suggest that the RAI formula needs to be modified.
Screening tests for free radical scavengers on cutaneous cultured cells.
Authors: NOEL‐HUDSON M.S. , CORNELIS M. , LINDENBAUM A. , WEPIERRE J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisNumerous studies discuss the important development of free radicals in human skin after exposure to UV irradiation. They suggest that these reactive molecules are responsible for sun‐accelerated cutaneous aging.We reproduced two types of radical agression on cutaneous human cell cultures. The first brings into action oxygen radicals generated by hypoxanthine‐xanthine oxidase system and the second involves the use of UV radiation. These complementary models may be used as screening methods for antioxidant molecule research because they allow the distinction between molecules with filtering properties and free radical scavengers. The possibility of introducing molecules at different stages (before, during and after exposure to agression) permits the study of the molecular mecanism. These models were tested on silymarin, catechin, ascorbic acid and alpha tocopherol.
Emulsification by the phase inversion temperature method: the role of self‐bodying agents and the influence of oil polarity
Authors: FÖRSTER TH. , SCHAMBIL F. , TESMANN H. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisOil‐in‐water emulsions stabilized with nonionic emulsifiers change to water‐in‐oil emulsions as the temperature rises when the hydrophilic and lipophilic properties of the mixed emulsifier are just balanced. Preparation above the phase inversion temperature followed by rapid cooling yields emulsions that exhibit very fine droplet size and extreme long‐term stability. Cosmetic emulsions were prepared by this phase inversion temperature (PIT) method using typical raw materials such as polar oils, e.g. decyl oleate, 2‐octyl dodecanol or isopropyl myristate, and nonionic emulsifiers, e.g. ceteareth‐12 or polyoxyethylene eicosyl/docosyl ether combined with cetostearyl alcohol as a co‐emulsifier. The phase inversion temperature was measured as a function of the oil polarity and the concentration of mixed emulsifier. The relationship between phase inversion temperature, droplet size and emulsion stability was investigated. In addition, self‐bodying agents such as cetostearyl alcohol or monoglycerides were added to these thin, fine disperse emulsions to adjust the consistency. The influence of these ingredients on phase inversion temperature, droplet size, yield value and emulsion stability was studied.
Identification des filtres UV dans les produits cosmétiques par CCM et HPLC
Authors: MASSE M.O. , HERPOL‐BORREMANS M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe method describes the identification of 22 UV filters authorized in Cosmetic products in Europe (dir. 76/768 EEC, annex VII, modified by dir. 89/174 EEC). (Table I).Twelve UV filters registered in part 2 of annex VII (dir. 83/574EEC) provisionally allowed in 1983 were abandoned by Industry. Consequently they were suppressed from the list of UV filters which cosmetic products may contain (dir. 89/174 EEC). Nevertheless the method describes also the identification of these 12 chemicals because they could interfere with the analysis of the 22 authorized UV filters in view of similarities in chemical structures (Table I (suite)).The screening of the UV filters in final products is based on thin layer chromatography (TLC) and confirmed by high pressure liquid chromatography (HPLC/UV).TLC combines four different systems and several detection reagents: absorption chromatography on silica gel with development in a neutral solvent, an acidic solvent, a basic solvent, reversed phase chromatography on RP 18 bonded silica with development in a methanol/water mixture.The results of these screening tests are confirmed by reversed phase HPLC/UV in an isocratic elution system. The acid components and the salts which are eluted before or with the solvent peak are separated in a gradient elution system at pH 3.5.Several UV filters available on the market of cosmetic ingredients are impure chemicals or mixtures.The identification of their principal components by nuclear magnetic resonance spectrometry (NMR) and by gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (GC/MS) will be the subject of future publications.
Biosurfactants for cosmetic applications
Authors: BROWN M.J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisBiosurfactants are biologically‐produced, natural surface active agents and are synthesized by a range of microorganisms. These compounds include glycolipids, lipopeptides and phospholipids. The yields of biosurfactants in microbial fermentations may be as high as 150g l−1 and may be increased by optimizing production conditions and by strain improvement. Biosurfactants display very low critical micelle concentration (CMC) values when compared with conventional surfactants and are stable at a wide range of temperatures, pH values and salinities. They show many promising characteristics for cosmetic applications.
Mise en place d'un modèle in vitro d'étude du vieillissement cellulaire sur fibroblaste dermique humain
Authors: LAFFORGUE Ch. , ZABOT M.T. , COTTE J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe normal dermal human fibroblastic cell (NDHF) was used to determine a cellular ageing pattern. Cells were cultured in monolayers until the 30th passage. First of all, the following cell growth characteristics were studied: growth rate, fluorimetric DNA determination, DNA repair after UV irradiation. Secondly, metabolism characteristics were examined: lysosomal enzymatic activity and type I and III collagen biosynthesis. Strains were obtained from 10,30,43 and 69‐year‐old donors to favour a comparison between in vitro and in vivo ageing.Cell growth ability is modified in vitro only for the oldest strain which shows a significant decrease in the cellular density at the 30th passage. The DNA rate and its repairing ability are not changed by in vitro ageing whatever the strain age.Lysosomal activity increases during in vitro ageing whereas the collagen I synthesis decreases. In vitro proliferating potentialities do not reflect in vivo ageing. On the other hand, in this study, metabolic potentialities evolve in the same way in vitro as in vivo and could be a good enough pattern to select anti‐ageing products.
Influence of skin cleansing preparation acidity on skin surface properties
Authors: KORTING H.C. , MEGELE M. , MEHRINGER L. , VIELUF D. , ZIENICKE H. , HAMM G. , BRAUN‐FALCO O. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisTwo long‐term trials were conducted each over eight weeks to compare the effect of the regular application of skin cleansing preparations of pH 5.5 and pH 8.5 and pH 5.5 and pH 7.0 respectively on the surface pH, roughness and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of normal human forehead and forearm skin. Both trials were based on a cross‐over design: five healthy volunteers started with a pH 5.5 preparation and switched to the other after four weeks, five additional volunteers used the preparations in the opposite order. While the skin surface pH was markedly lower in those individuals using the pH 5.5 preparation at each examination, as compared to those using the pH 8.5 or pH 7.0 preparation, no such difference could be established with respect to skin roughness and TEWL. Hence the skin irritancy of a cleansing preparation does not seem to be linked to its pH within the pH ranges tested.
Solution behaviour of new cationic surfactants derived from Guerbet alcohols and their use in hair conditioners
Authors: YAHAGI KAZUYUKI , HOSHINO NAOKO , HIROTA HAJIME 
Published: May 2007

SummaryThe solution behaviour of new cationic surfactants, synthesized by using long‐chain Guerbet alcohols, in water was investigated by a polarizing microscopic technique, differential scanning calorimetry, and electric conductivity measurements. These surfactants show the gel–liquid crystalline phase transition to be lower than 0°C and form lamellar liquid crystals even in cold water and at low concentrations of surfactants. The sorption of cationic surfactants from aqueous solutions onto hair was determined as a function of temperature. The effect of adsorbed cationic surfactants on the critical surface tension and kinetic frictional coefficients of hair surface have been investigated. These surface characteristics of hair treated with quaternary ammonium compounds derived from Guerbet alcohols were found to be significantly improved. These results can be explained by the high ability of sorption onto hair. Hair rinses and conditioners having excellent ease of combing or brushing for wet and dry hair can be formulated by the application of these cationic surfactants.
Sodium lauryl sulphate/amphoteric surfactant interactions: selective diffusion through a collagen film
Authors: DOMINGO X. , PHILLIPS B.M. , LEAL J. SANCHEZ , GARCIA T. , GARBAYO A. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisDiffusion tests of anionic, amphoteric and mixtures of amphoteric/anionic surfactants have been performed using a collagen film.A sensitive potentiometric method has been developed to determine the surfactant diffused avoiding the interferences observed in the usual analytical measurements due to the simultaneous presence of amphoteric/anionic surfactants.From the results obtained it is evident that the surfactant mixtures exhibit a synergistic behaviour as there is a mutual inhibition of the surfactant diffused through the collagen film.Empirical equations have been derived to describe the diffusion process of both the individual surfactants and mixtures of surfactants which allow the diffusion of the individual surfactants and the inhibition of diffusion in mixtures to be quantified.
Three phase emulsions for controlled delivery in the cosmetic field
Authors: BONINA F. , BADER S. , MONTENEGRO L. , SCROFANI C. , VISCA M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisAdding perfluoropolymethylisopropylether (Fomblin HC) to conventional cosmetic emulsion, causes the physicochemical and applicative properties of the formulation to be deeply modified, the main feature being the formation of three phase systems.The in vitro effects on percutaneous absorption of adding Fomblin HC to a cosmetic emulsion of three model compounds was assessed using caffeine, testosterone and tritiated water as model compounds. In vitro experiments were carried out through human skin using static and flow‐through diffusion cells. The presence of Fomblin HC (1, 3, 5%) in the emulsion decreased the percutaneous absorption of testosterone (0.01%) but increased water permeation. These effects were dependent on Fomblin HC concentration. On the contrary, caffeine flux through the skin was not affected by Fomblin addition to the emulsion.
The effect of smoking on skin moisture and on surface lipids
Authors: WOLF RONNI , TUR ETHEL , WOLF DANNI , LANDAU MARINA 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisIn the present retrospective study we investigated the effect of smoking on the moisture and surface lipid levels of the skin. We analysed data from the files of 576 female clients treated in a Tel‐Aviv cosmetic parlour. Measurements have been conducted by the same cosmetician, by commercially available equipment, on every client receiving cosmetic treatment, regardless of the nature of the treatment.Results demonstrated a significant difference of skin moisture in the various smoking groups: women who smoked 11–20 cigarettes per day showed significantly lower mean values than the non‐smoker group, as expected. Moreover, women before or after menopause showed no significant differences in their moisture measurements.The surface lipid variables showed no significant differences in mean over the four smoking groups.We believe that the objective of the study was achieved, and that the results, indicating decreased skin moisture in smokers, will serve well in anti‐smoking campaigns. We also believe that the present study will stimulate other investigators to conduct similar studies that will provide answers to the many questions which still remain open.
Future developments in cosmetic formulations
Authors: TADROS T.F. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisIn recent years, there have been a great deal of interest in applications of microemulsions, liposomes (vesicles) and multiple emulsions in cosmetic formulations. These systems will provide the cosmetic industry with new types of formulations which are easier to apply, better functional benefit and potentially safer formulations. Microemulsions are thermodynamically stable systems and hence shelf life is no problem. Many cosmetic ingredients can be adequately solubilized in the swollen micelles of the microemulsions. Such solubilized systems may enhance transport and diffusion through various barriers, eg., the skin, thus enhancing the efficacy of the formulations. However, microemulsions may cause skin irritation by disrupting the liquid crystalline structure of the stratum corneum. This problem may be overcome by formulating microemulsions, which on evaporation produce lamellar liquid crystalline structures. The problem of skin irritation is certainly reduced or eliminated using liposomes or vesicles, which offer an alternative to microemulsions. The principles for formation and stabilization of vesicles are discussed in this paper and research work is needed to produce nanocapsules from liposomes, using polymerizable surfactants. Multiple emulsions of the water/oil/water (w/o/w) or oil/water/oil (o/w/o) types are also valuable systems for formulating cosmetics. In the first place, they offer a means of sustained release of the various ingredients. Secondly, they allow one to separate the various ingredients in the formulation, thus preventing their possible interaction. The basic principles required for preparation of stable multiple emulsions are summarised. Developments of polymeric surfactants led to the formulation of stable multiple emulsions. An example of a recently formulated stable w/o/w multiple emulsion is given in this paper The stability of the system was investigated using optical microscopy. Creaming occurred on storage, particularly at high temperature (40°C) and this was significantly reduced by addition of Kelzan (a polysaccharide with high molecular weight). The final formulation was studied rheological techniques.
Method for quantifying cutaneous pigmentation in animals and preliminary study in humans
Authors: MEROT F. , SENIUTA R. , BENITA G. , MASSON Ph. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA preoccupation with aesthetics and a real desire for social development has brought about an increase in the demand for safe, effective depigmenting products among African and Asian populations.For many years now, we have used an experimental model which uses the black mouse CS BL/6/JICO.As a result of developing needs and the necessity to check the results obtained from animals on humans, we have had to change the methodology in order to take into account the specific characteristics of human skin.After a summary of the protocol used on the mouse, here you will find a description of the technical changes which had to be made in order to carry out the study on humans.The results of a comparative test between the two models are given. This was carried out with a cosmetic preparation containing 2% hydroquinone introduced via a vector that facilitates its absorption.The depigmentation observed in the animal model was not found significant in humans.Taking into consideration the large number of differences between individuals, and in order to demonstrate a significant result on humans, it would be necessary to use a larger experimental group, treated for a longer period than that normally used with animals.
Determination of methyldibromoglutaronitrile in cosmetic products by high performance liquid chromatography with electrochemical detection
Authors: ROOSELAAR J. , WEYLAND J.W. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA method for the determination of methyldibromoglutaronitrile in cosmetic products is described. Reversed phase high performance liquid chromatography and reductive electrochemical detection is employed to provide for improved selectivity and detectability compared to alternative methods. The method detects 0.002% methyldibromoglutaronitrile in cosmetic products and has a linear range from 0.006 up to 0.06%, which can easily be extended to the legally allowed limit of 0.1% by means of a simple dilution step. At a level of 0.03% the coefficient of variation was estimated to be 1.7%. Recoveries measured were between 98 and 100%.The method has been subjected to a ruggedness test, which indicated that it was stable, but slightly sensitive for a decrease in the detection potential. More than 130 cosmetic products have been analysed using the method. In 19 samples methyldibromoglutaronitrile was detected in concentrations varying between 0.002% and 0.030%.
Substantivity of sunscreens —in vitro evaluation of the transdermal permeation characteristics of some benzophenone derivatives
Authors: MONTI D. , SAETTONE M.F. , CENTINI M. , ANSELMI C. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe in vitro permeation through excised hairless mouse skin of a series of 4‐O‐(N, N‐dimethylaminoalkyl)‐benzophenones, non‐quaternarized and quaternarized, and of two commercial benzophenone sunscreens, taken as reference compounds, was investigated. The aim of the study was to verify the skin penetration of the highly skin‐substantive quaternary ammonium derivatives, in comparison with their parent, non‐quaternarized compounds. While the quaternary derivatives proved unable to permeate the skin during the period of observation (45 h), their parent amine hydrochlorides and the reference sunscreens (2‐hydroxy‐4‐methoxy‐benzophenone‐5‐sulphonic acid and 2,2′‐dihydroxy‐4,4′‐dimethoxy‐benzophenone 5,5′‐sodium disulphonate), showed appreciable transdermal fluxes.These data indicate that the presence of a quaternary ammonium group in a molecule, besides inducing a high affinity for cutaneous keratin, may result in hindered or reduced transdermal (and possibly systemic) absorption. Both features may contribute in improving the safety of a cosmetic sunscreen.
Rheology: how to characterize and to predict the evolution of W/O/W multiple emulsions
Authors: TERRISSE I. , SEILLER M. , RABARON A. , GROSSIORD J.L. , MAGNET A. , Le HEN‐FERRENBACH C. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe purpose of this work was to compare the evolution of three multiple emulsions (ME) by different controls. The series of water‐in‐oil‐in‐water (W/O/W) multiple emulsions were elaborated and controlled by both the usual analyses which permitted the classification of the multiple emulsions with respect to their thermal stability, and the rheological oscillatory and flow analyses which are polyvalent methods. Further, these allow the ‘identity card’ of the multiple emulsion to be drawn, its evolution to be followed, and moreover, its behaviour being foreseen by simulating ageing by shear. Three different behaviours are observed; a destructuration, a phase inversion and stability.