bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Protective effect evaluation of free radical scavengers on UVB induced human cutaneous erythema by skin reflectance spectrophotometry
Authors: MONTENEGRO L. , BONINA F. , RIGANO L. , GIOGILLI S. , SIRIGU S. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThis paper assesses the suitability of UVB induced skin erythema measured by reflectance spectrophotometry in humans as a model for differentiating topical efficacy of free radical scavengers. Two different formulations (aqueous gels and O/W emulsions) of each active compound (tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione, ascorbyl palmitate) were tested on healthy human volunteers before and after skin exposure to UVB radiation. Skin erythema was monitored by calculating erythema index values from the skin spectral data obtained using a reflectance spectrophotometer. The free radical scavengers tested were not able to inhibit UVB induced skin erythema from both formulations when they were topically applied before UVB irradiation. Applying the free radical scavenger formulations after skin exposure to UVB radiation, glutathione and SOD showed the best ability in inhibiting the induced erythema (percentage inhibition 53.3 and 41.6%, respectively from gels). Tocopherol and tocopherol acetate inhibited UVB skin erythema by 27% while ascorbyl palmitate showed a poor efficacy. For all the active compounds tested, no significant difference was observed comparing the results obtained from gels to those from emulsions. Liposomal gel formulations containing the free radical scavengers which showed the best activity (SOD and glutathione) were prepared and topically applied after skin exposure to UVB radiation. SOD and glutathione liposomal formulations were more effective than the corresponding conventional gels. The proposed model, if validated by further studies, could be useful for differentiating the effectiveness of free radical scavengers in inhibiting photoaging due to long‐term sunlight skin exposure.
Opto‐thermal measurements for the non‐invasive, non‐occlusive monitoring of in vivo skin condition
Authors: BINDRA R.M.S. , IMHOF R.E. , ANDREW J.J. , CUMMINS P.G. , ECCLESTON G.M. 
Published: May 2007

SummaryOpto‐thermal transient radiometry (OTTER) is a non‐invasive measurement technique, well suited for in vivo skin research. Its excitation and detection wavelengths can be selected to give a high sensitivity to stratum corneum hydration. This is demonstrated with measurements of hydration changes resulting from occlusion with a neoprene cover and with a topical application of an occlusive preparation. In the former case, the hydration was found to recover to normal levels upon exposure to atmospheric conditions in a characteristic time of 15 min. In the latter case, a topical application of petroleum jelly was found to lead to a doubling of stratum corneum hydration over 2h. This ability to measure hydration changes in the presence of topical hydrating agents is thought to be a particularly valuable property of the OTTER technique. With a different choice of excitation and detection wavelengths, OTTER can be used to measure skin thickness, from the surface down to the vascular bed. This technique was used to measure a skin thickness map of the ventral surface of the forearm of a volunteer, showing distinct thickening near the wrist and ulna. Another use of this technique is the study of changes in subcutaneous blood distribution associated with erythema. As a demonstration of this, blood distribution changes brought about by the topical application of a salicylate/nicotinate preparation were studied. The main finding is that the subcutaneous blood spreads towards the surface, with the mean depth decreasing from 63 μm to 55μm.
Cosmetic preservation and structure‐activity relationships of 4‐diazo‐pyrazole‐5‐carboxamides
Authors: BARALDI P.G. , GUARNERI M. , BADER S. , ZANOTTI F. , MANFREDINI S. , SPALLUTO G. , CACCIARI B. , BRIGIDI P. 
Published: May 2007

SummaryDiazoles have attracted considerable attention for a long time owing to their potentially interesting chemical, biochemical, and medicinal properties. We have reported the synthesis and in vitro antibacterial activity of a new series of (N‐substituted)‐3‐methyl‐4‐diazo‐5‐pyrazolecarboxamides 1a‐n along with their quantitative structureactivity study. There was a trend towards a better Gram‐negative activity with decreasing molecular refraction values of the substituents on the carboxamidic moiety and a better Gram‐positive activity with increasing values of IR carbonyl shift. The compounds which displayed the broadest antibacterial spectrum were 3‐methyl‐4‐diazo‐5‐pyrazolecarboxamides substituted with 2‐pyridinyl and 3‐isoxazolyl moieties, making evident the structural requirement of a heterocyclic substituent with aminic function located in the ortho position with respect to heteroatom(s). The introduction of new substituents with different lipophilic properties in place of the C3‐methyl group such as cyano, methoxy, ethoxy, benzyloxy substituents have been examined followed by application of these materials to the cosmetic formulations. An emulsion utilizing the 2‐pyridinyl compound at 0.2% and 0.4% has been prepared, and their specific antimicrobial activity has been evaluated. Preliminary antimicrobial challenge studies indicated the excellent preservative activity of this compound in cosmetic formulations.
Esters of 1,3,3,‐trimethyl‐2‐oxabicyclo [2.2.2]octan‐6‐ols: synthesis, odour evaluation and in vitro preliminary toxicity assays
Authors: MARIANI E. , NEUHOFF C. , BARGAGNA A. , LONGOBARDI M. , FERRO M. , GELARDI A. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe synthesis of a series of alkyl and arylesters of 1,3,3,‐trimethyl‐2‐oxabicyclo[2.2.2]octan‐6‐ols (2‐cineolylols) is described. All cineole esters obtained were tested for their olfactive character; the esters derived from aryl acyl chlorides were odourless, while aliphatic esters showed interesting multipurpose aromas. Some of these compounds exhibited fruity, woody, green, pine oil and violet‐like notes and some showed aromas interesting for foodstuffs. In vitro toxicity tests were carried out on the cyclopropyl ester of 2‐cineolylols, the most promising of these compounds as a potential perfume ingredient. In this study, cultured mouse fibroblast L‐929 and human keratinocyte NCTC 2544 cell lines were used. The results obtained with the evaluation of three different physiological end points showed that the tested compound possess much lower cytotoxicity than sodium dodecylsulphate (SDS) used as positive control
Inhibition of human neutrophil elastase by wheat ceramides
Authors: BIZOT‐FOULON V. , GODEAU G. , GUESSOUS F. , LATI E. , ROUSSET G. , ROCH‐ARVEILLIER M. , HORNEBECK W. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisCeramides, composed of sphingosineN‐acyl linked to fatty acids have become widely used in cosmetology. They play several physiological roles in the regulation of skin barrier function. Human neutrophil elastase (HNE) can be inhibited by long‐chain fatty acids and their derivatives; it was therefore postulated that plant ceramides could be inhibitors of HNE. Ceramides were extracted from wheat, isolated and characterized. The main fatty acids were 16:0, 18:1, 18:2 and the sphingoid moiety was phytosphingosine. Concentrations necessary to reach 50% inhibition of HNE were, respectively, 33 and 41 μg ml‐1for non‐glycosyl ceramides (CER) and glycosyl ceramides (gly‐CER) when using a synthetic specific substrate. Similar extents of inhibition were obtained using a physiological substrate, insoluble elastin.Ex vivostudies showed that CER protected human skin elastic fibres against HNE degradation. Ceramides, being natural non‐toxic substances, besides their role in cosmetics, could be of pharmacological interest in dermal inflammatory disorders.
Percutaneous absorption of parabens from cosmetic formulations
Authors: POZZO A. DAL , PASTORI N. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisAbsorption through human skin of a series of six p‐hydroxy‐benzoates (parabens) was studied in vitro. A diffusion chamber was used, where the receiving phase was a physiological solution of albumin. Maximum fluxes and permeability constants of the parabens were measured from different vehicles representing hydrophilic and lipophilic phases, and from different types of common commercial cosmetic emulsions, each containing a known quantity of a single member of the series. Significant skin absorption was observed, depending upon the partition coefficient (log P octanol/water) of the permeant, composition and time of storage of the emulsions. Fluxes from all types of emulsions were higher for methyl paraben and decreased with the increasing lipophilic character of the preservative. Comparatively, fluxes from oil/water emulsions were higher than from water/oil emulsions. Moreover, a clear dependence of preservatives’percutaneous absorption on the time of storage was observed, the fluxes becoming constant after about three months after the time of preparation. The relationship between preservative activity and percutaneous absorption is discussed.
Collaborative development of a sun protection factor test method: a proposed European Standard. COLIPA Task Force ‘Sun Protection Measurement’, Europe
Authors: FERGUSON J. , BROWN M. , ALERT D. , BIELFELDT S. , BROWN J. , CHARDON A. , HOURSEAU C. , MAZILIER C. , CUTHBERT J. , D'ARCY‐BURT K. , JOLLEY J. , MURDOCH M. , FINKEL P. , MASSON P. , MEROT F. , MACLENNAN A. , PORET J. , SILADGI S. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisStandardization of the method to determine sun protection factors (SPF) is fundamental to uniform labelling of SPF values on sun products. The COLIPA Task Force ‘Sun Protection Measurement’(SPM), including representatives of major European sun‐product manufacturers and contract testing laboratories, was established in 1990 to define methods for sun products testing. The process involved in developing the COLlPA SPF Test Method started with a critical appraisal of previously existing methods, and identification of areas for improvement. Experiments were performed by the participating laboratories to establish the new recommended test protocol which was then confirmed in two multicentred ring tests. Improvements to test methodology included the number and selection of volunteers and skin types, the application of the product, the definition of W output from solar simulators, and the method for assessing erythemal response (MED) including an option to use colorimetry to define objectively the ‘erythemal threshold’ of skin and to predetermine MED prior to exposure. Four cosmetic formulations and neutral density physical filters (SPF from 4 to 20) were tested in two ring tests. Results showed that variations in SPF of the cosmetic products were, on average, directly proportional to SPF value. An excellent correlation was found between visual and colorimetric SPF assessments (r = 0.99). An acceptable range of values for low and high SPF standard products was also established. The COLIPA SPF test method is now fully defined and supported by experimental data. Its use will harmonize SPF testing throughout Europe and help in the quest for global harmonization in testing sun products.
Novel glyceride gels II. Viscosity characteristics
Authors: GAUTHIER P. , AIACHE S. , AIACHE J.M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisA gelling process for glycerides (synthetic or natural) by a cellulose derivative has been developed to obtain transparent oleogels of different consistencies. The present work examines the rheological behaviour of these oleogels. The study was carried out with a Trombomat Viscosity Follower. This measurement system allowed the determination of the gelling time and viscosity changes as a function of temperature.
W/O emulsions: solvent phase separation for pH determination
Authors: BUNGARD A. , HAMEYER P. , METZELAARS J. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThe aim of this investigation was to find a measure for the phase separation by substances capable of rapidly demulsifying emulsions, which is necessary for the correct determination of the pH in cosmetic W/O emulsions. Results are reported for pH determination in the separated water phase of W/O emulsions containing metal soaps, micropigments and thermally unstable active agents. Of the substances investigated – solvents of different polarity and electrolytes – the best were mixtures of the polar butanol, which has a surfactant‐like molecular structure and limited oil and water solubility, and the low polar trichloromethane which in particular has strong fat‐ and wax‐dissolving properties. The combination achieved within 10 to 20 min at room temperature complete phase separations. Stable preparations, based on a polymer emulsifier (cetyl dimethicone copolyol), were demulsified as well as metal soap stabilized creams which characteristically contain a high amount of stabilizing waxes. The so‐called solvent phase separation method was confirmed by using model preparations of known pH. During the investigation of model emulsions matching those used in practice, it was found, for example, that magnesium and aluminium stearate as well as various types of micronized zinc oxide which are dissolved or dispersed in the oil phase can shift the pH of the aqueous phase during manufacture from an initial acidic value through neutral to pH 8–10. Time‐related and temperature‐related changes in pH in formulations containing thermally unstable additives such as dihydroxyacetone or urea can be easily monitored.
Effect of Vichy water on catalase activity in the stratum corneum
Authors: BRUNEAU F. , BERNARD D. , RAGUENEAU N. , MONTASTIER C. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisVichy spa water is essentially known for its therapeutic action on liver and bile duct functions. Its mechanism of action may be partially explained by the activation of certain digestive enzymes. A literature survey showed that Vichy water has also been used for local application in the treatment of certain dermatoses. Based on these data, the effects of Vichy spa water on the skin were studied using cutaneous enzymatic systems. The first studies were carried out on catalase, an oxidoreductase. The results showed a statistically significant increase (p<0.05) in the activity of the enzyme in the presence of Vichy spa water both in vitro and in vivo. Considering the involvement of catalase in skin defence against oxygen‐derived free radicals generated, its increased activity may explain the beneficial role of Vichy water observed in various dermatoses.
FTIR investigation of the damage produced on human hair by weathering and bleaching processes: implementation of different sampling techniques and data processing
Authors: SIGNORI V. , LEWIS D. M. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisUntreated and bleached hair samples were analysed by FTIR spectroscopy. Cysteic acid and cysteine‐S‐thiosulphate were analysed by different data manipulations and various sampling techniques. Single‐fibre analysis was achieved using the IR‐microscope attachment to the FTIR instrument (transmission mode). An ATR diamond crystal was also used for both single fibres and tresses; this sampling technique was compared to a contact sample ATR cell based on a ZnSe crystal. The microscope was found to be very useful for the analysis of small portions of hair fibres; the effect of weathering along the length of the fibres and the extent of variability among the single fibres was assessed by this technique. The results clearly show a trend in the cysteic acid content increasing from the mid‐point to the tip; it was found that hair samples are very heterogeneous. A standard variation of up to 11% is reported for the mean value of the intensity of absorption of cysteic acid in untreated fibres belonging to the same tress sample. The value of the variation decreases when the tress is bleached – the longer the bleaching process the lower the value of the standard variation (4.5% for hair fibres bleached for 60 min using hydrogen peroxide). The contact sample ATR cell gave poor reproducibility as only poor sample‐crystal contact was achieved and the level of noise recorded was too high to allow accurate detection. However the ATR diamond crystal was found to give sensitive and reproducible spectra since much higher levels of transmittance were achieved (better sample‐crystal contact); this technique allowed measurements of groups of seven to nine hair fibres at once, but did not provide reproducible spectra of single fibres. Different data manipulations have been assessed; these include derivatization and calculation of peak heights and areas (ratioed by the intensity of absorption of the peaks chosen as internal standards to the amide III 1232–1242 cm−1 and CH2 stretching 1451 cm−1), normalization, averaging spectra and spectral subtraction.
Influence des ions sur le pouvoir hydratant de I'urée: étude sur peau de porc ex vivo
Authors: DUPUIS L. , MANFAIT M. , SERPIER H. , CAPON F. , KALIS B. 
Published: May 2007

SynopsisThis study deals with the influence of ions (NaCl and MgSO4) in a W/O emulsion containing 10% urea. Moisturization kinetics are assessed by corneometry on pig skin ex vivo. The formula's influence on urea penetration is measured by infrared spectrometry with an ATR device and the stripping method. Corneometry and spectroscopy were chosen to record simultaneously the hydratation levels and urea localization into superficial cell layers. Urea crystallization after evaporation of emulsions and aqueous solutions is described. Results show that urea does not hydrate nor penetrate when applied to the skin through an aqueous gel. In a W/O emulsion, sodium chloride increases the ability of urea to moisturize without improving penetration. In vitro urea crystallization is disturbed by sodium chloride or magnesium sulphate for solutions and emulsions. This stabilization by ions is correlated with good moisturization values. The stabilization of urea in the solute state provided by ions increases its water epidermal binding capacity without enhancing penetration.
Reregulating the UK Dairy Industry: The Changing Nature of Competitive Space
Authors: Banks Jo , Marsden Terry 
Published: May 2007

In November 1994 the statutory Milk Marketing Board within England and Wales was disbanded, ending over sixty years of structured formal involvement by the state in the operation of the dairy market. This paper examines the changing form and function of regulation in the UK dairy sector as actors, both new and old, renegotiate internal and external sectoral relations. The process of reregulation is set within the context of a food system in which producer‐dominated corporatism has been challenged by retailer‐based regulation through the supply chain. Through studying this example of agri‐food restructuring, the paper investigates how new state/market configurations are being played out, and how new ideological approaches to agricultural and economic policy may in turn impact on rural space. Viewing rural space as an area of contest and challenge within which reregulation occurs, the role of food quality in driving new processes of differentiation is seen as particularly important.Im November 1994 wurde der offizielle Milchmarkt‐Ausschuß in England und Wales aufgelöst. Damit gingen 60 Jahre formeller Beteiligung des Staates an der Gestaltung des Milchmarktes zuende. In dem Artikel wird untersucht, wie sich Form und Funktion der Regulierung des Milchsektors in Großbritannien verändern, wenn die Akteure von gestern und heute die internen und externen sektoralen Beziehungen neu aushandeln. Der Reregulationsprozeß findet im Rahmen eines Nahrungsmittelsystems statt, innerhalb dessen ein erzeugerzentrierter Korporatismus durch eine einzelhandelsorientierte Regulation via Versorgungskette herausgefordert wurde. Anhand dieses Beispiels einer Restrukturierung im Bereich landwirtschaftlicher Nahrungsmittel untersucht der Artikel, wie sich neue Konstellationen von Staat und Markt darstellen und wie stattdessen neue ideologische Ansätze in der Landwirtschafts‐ und Wirtschaftpolitik Einfluß auf den ländlichen Raum gewinnen. Indem wir den ländlichen Raum als Sphäre für Wettbewerb und Herausforderung betrachten, in der Reregulierungen stattfinden, wird der Lebensmittelqualität für den Anstoß zu neuen Differenzierungsprozessen besondere Bedeutung zugewiesen.
Changing Patterns of State Intervention in the Brazilian Agro‐industrial Complex
Authors: Belik Walter 
Published: May 2007

This paper analyses recent changes in Brazilian agricultural policies, which are seen as linked to new forms of market intervention emerging at the end of the 1980s. Using an institutionalist approach, particularly with regard to forms of governance, we identify three distinct phases that characterize the development of Brazilian agricultural policy over the last thirty years. First, with the formation and constitution of sectorial interests, the state engaged in a sort of ‘regulatory fury,’ from which modern Brazilian agriculture springs. Later, under the pressure of budgetary difficulties and with the emancipation of relevant social actors, we enter a period of ‘controlled autonomy’ in the different sectors of the agro‐industrial complex. Finally, under the conditions of ‘commercial opening,’ the fiscal crisis of the state and the increasing role of foreign capital, decision‐making arenas multiply and the state's role in the management of agricultural policy diminishes.Der Artikel analysiert neuere Veränderungen in der brasilianischen Agrarpolitik, die in Verbindung mit neuen Formen der Marktintervention Ende der 80er Jahre auftauchten. Auf der Basis eines Institutionalismus‐Ansatzes und mit besonderer Berücksichtigung der Herrschaftsformen identifizieren wir für die letzten 30 Jahre drei verschiedene Phasen der brasilianischen Agrarpolitik: Zunächst engagiert sich der Staat im Zusammenhang der Bildung und Konstituierung sektoraler Interessen mit einer Art ‘regulatorischem Fieber,’ aus dem die moderne brasilianische Landwirtschaft hervorgeht. Sodann tritt—unter dem Druck von Haushaltsproblemen und im Gefolge der Emanzipation wichtiger sozialer Akteure ‐ eine Phase ‘kontrollierter Autonomie’ in den verschiedenen Sektoren der Agroindustrie ein. Schließlich nehmen im Rahmen der Marktöffnung, der Finanzkrise des Staates und der wachsenden Rolle des ausländischen Kapitals, die Ebenen der Entscheidungsfindung zu und die staatliche Rolle bei der Gestaltung der Landwirtschaftspolitik ab.