bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Felting and Flocculation of Natural Wool in Water and in Mixed Solvents
Authors: Stigter D. , Menefee E. , Landwehr R.C. 
Published: October 2007

Shrinkage-time curves have been determined for untreated wool fabric in various water/dimethylformamide (DMF) and water/ethanol mixtures, using a Cubex machine. Felting shrinkage decreases drastically above 90% DMF and around 85% ethanol. In a qualitative way the shrinkage results correlate well with the decreased attraction between the wool fibers in the mixed solvents, as measured in flocculation tests of the chopped wool fibers. Root-to-tip variation of interfiber attraction for natural wool in water has been examined by the flocculation of parts of wool fibers cut from a single lock of oriented natural wool. The results indicate a decrease in hydrophobicity from fiber root to fiber tip, as expected, from increased oxidation in weathering.
An Effect of a Pretreatment of Fabric upon the Development of Durable-Press Properties in Cotton Fabrics by the Wet-Fixation Process
Authors: Bertoniere Noelie R. , Blouin Florine A. , Martin Lawrence F. , Rowland Stanley P. 
Published: October 2007

A critical factor in the development of durable-press performance in cotton fabrics by the wet-fixation process is the presence of trace amounts of residual base in the cotton. In relatively large quantities the base neutralizes the acid catalyst employed for fixation and decreases the extent of reaction of the hexamethylolmelamines. In lesser amounts the base has little or no effect upon the development of add-on and resilience but deters the development of breaking strength and abrasion resistance in the fixed and cured fabrics. Evidence obtained in this study shows that in the wet-fixation type of process high levels of resilience are developed readily and are a function of reactions occurring in the early stages of fixation but subsequently modified by curing. On the other hand, high levels of breaking strength and abrasion resistance are developed only after extensive penetration of reagents into the fiber structure; these properties are a function of reactions occurring in the later stages of fixation. These strength properties are enhanced by use of reagent systems (i.e., hexamethylolmelamines) whose moderate reactivities allow good penetration.
Studies in Wear Life of Normal- and Special-Finished Woven Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Sarma G.V. , Handu J.L. , Verma B.C. , Singh A.P. 
Published: October 2007

In a service wear trial of shirts made from chemically modified cotton fabrics, the edge wear at the collar was found to bear good correlation with flex abrasion tests in warp and filling directions performed on BFT and Stoll testers as well as with fillingwise tearing strength. By contrast, these laboratory tests showed poor correlation with edge wear at the cuffs. The Stoll flat abrasion test, however, gave best correlation with cuff edge wear. Changes in the mechanical properties of chemically modified fabrics were examined in relation to more basic changes in the fibers.
Modifying the Characteristics of Ring and Open-End Yarns
Authors: Lord P.R. , Nichols L.D. 
Published: October 2007

Various ways of treating or manipulating yarns to modify their characteristics are discussed. A method of partially untwisting, drawing, and retwisting was seen to give minor improvements in fiber extent and migration, but the resulting improvements in yarn strength were small. The gains in tenacity were more than offset by losses in breaking elongation, and the work of rupture was nearly always reduced. The treatment tended to reduce hairiness. Simple drawing was also shown to give modest improvements in tenacity providing a specific stress of 2 gf/tex or so was not exceeded. The use of wet spinning was shown to give some advantage with cotton because of the activation of natural adhesives and possibly because the wet fibers mutually conformed to a greater extent. The yarns were very smooth, but increases in strength were once again offset by losses in elongation. Wet spinning of man-made fibers showed few or none of these advantages.
Heat Transfer in False-Twist Texturing
Authors: Ecambaram T. , Afify E.W. , El-Shiekh Aly 
Published: October 2007

A mathematical model for the heating of yarn in the false-twist texturizing process was formed, and an equation for the surface temperature of the yarn for contact-type heaters was derived. An expression for the temperature distribution in the cross section of the yarn in the heater zone was derived mathematically. The surface temperatures of nylon and polyester yarns of different deniers were measured and compared with predicted values. For measuring the surface temperature, a Fiber-temp® non-contact-type temperature measuring instrument was used. The yarns were heated using controlled short heaters 12 in. and 8 in. long. The temperature distribution in the cross section of the yarns was calculated from the equation for various yarn speeds and heater temperatures. The temperature difference between the surface and the center of the yarn was found to be small for the normal yarns used in texturizing, even at very high speeds. Polyester yarns were found to heat up faster than nylon yarns due to the lower heat capacity of polyester. The heavy denier yarns were heated more slowly than the lower denier yarns because of the lower A/M (surface area/mass) ratio of the high denier ones.
Freedom in Dress: Legal Sanctions
Authors: Maher Pat Marie , Slocum Ann C. 
Published: October 2007

The specific purposes of this paper were to identify dress choices which resulted in legal sanctions, to examine the legal basisfor sanctions, to specify stituations in which sanctions were upheld, and more generally to examine whether judges were sensitive to traditional or emerging social values in making their decisions. Cases involved individuals who either anticipated or suffered arrest or were denied city permits because their appearance was considered deviant. Dress aspects included the American flag as dress, military uniforms, group identification symbols, degrees of public nudity, and courtroom and prison dress. Data were taken from published case law reports appearing in West's National Reporter System. In recent years, an increasing number ofpeople initiated dress-related court cases challenging impending and actual arrests and city license denials. In 61 percent of the cases reviewed, judges ruled that legal sanctions were incorrectly applied. Judges were sensitive to emerging values in certain areas.
Archaeological Textile Evidence for Historic Costume Study: Louisiana Tiger Rifles 1861
Authors: Deegan Ann Cordy 
Published: October 2007

The purpose of this research was to analyze fabric remains from the grave of an American Civil War confederate soldier of the Louisiana Tiger Rifles who was executed by military firing squad in December 1861 near Manassas, Virginia. No confirmed visual examples of this uniform exist. A small layered mass of fabric wasfound in this grave. Fourteen fabric samples in nine layers, none larger than 10.2 cm2, were analyzed by compound light microscope, stereomicroscope, and scanning electron microscopefor fiber content, color, and fabric construction. Garment silhouettes were not obtainable through this research nor were details on lower body garments. Upper body garments were identified as a dark silk cravat located in the top layer above a porcelain shirt button. The next layer was a blue wool, twill weave jacket with red, plain weave wool binding on the edge. The only other garment was a cream colored, plain weave wool shirt with interface stiffening in the front placket region. The data were used to help reconstruct the Tiger Rifles uniform for living history demonstrations.
Effectiveness of Dye Setting Treatments on Cotton Fabrics Dyed with Direct, Reactive, and Vat Dyes
Authors: Crews Patricia Cox 
Published: October 2007

Eight treatments were evaluated for their effectiveness in the setting of dyes in new cotton fabrics. Dyes representing three application classes (direct, reactive, and vat) widely used on cotton fabrics were selected. Because of the perceived problems of red dyes bleeding during laundering, five of the eight dyes selected for evaluation were red. Color and staining evaluations were made after treatment and after laundering of the treated specimens to determine the effects of the treatments on color change and bleeding. The dye setting treatments did not cause large amounts of color change in the treated fabrics; however, none of the dye setting treatments significantly reduced color loss or staining during laundering for any of the dyes. Some of the treatments actually increased rather than decreased color loss and staining. Clearly, the home treatments for setting dyes evaluated in this study are a waste of the consumer's time, energy, and money.
Water Hardness, Detergent Type, and Prewash Product Use as Factors Affecting Methyl Parathion Residue Retained in Protective Apparel Fabrics
Authors: Laughlin Joan , Gold Roger E. 
Published: October 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of water hardness, detergent type, and prewash product on methyl parathion residue remaining in fabric after laundering. Measured water hardness had not been included as a variable in earlier studies. Its effect is particularly important as water hardness may interfere with the cleaning effectiveness of the detergent, the detersive action of an anionic product being reduced more than that of a nonionic product. The factorial design included (a) two detergents (nonionic and anionic) (b) a prewash product (laundered with or without) (c) fabric finish (unfinished or repellent finished) and (d) five levels of water hardness (0, 300, 600, 900, and 1200ppm). Unlaundered 8 X 8 cm specimens were spiked with 0.2 ml of methyl parathion. Residue was extracted following laundering and quantity remaining was determined by gas chromatography. The results showed that the repellent finish was effective in limiting methyl parathion absorption. After laundering, residues were greater for a soil-repellent finished fabric than the unfinished fabric even though the initial contamination was lower for the soil-repellent finished fabric. As level of water hardness increased, residue retained increased. The anionic phosphate detergent was less efficient in methyl parathion removal than was heavy duty liquid detergent; however, use of a prewash product before laundering with the anionic detergent resulted in residues on unfinished specimens at levels similar to those for the heavy duty liquid detergent.
Effect of Exercise Garment Fabric and Environment on Cutaneous Conditions of Human Subjects
Authors: Markee Nancy L. , Hatch Kathryn L. , French Stephen N. , Maibach Howard I. , Wester Ronald 
Published: October 2007

The role of three experimental knitfabrics and two environmental conditions on human subjects' stratum corneum water content, rate of water evaporation from their skin surface, rate of capillary blood flow, and skin temperature are reported Exercise garments constructed from 1. 5 denier polyester, 3.5 denierpolyester, or 100 % combed cottonfabrics were worn by each subject while exercising and resting in a hot, humid and a hot, dry environment. The noninvasive cutaneous measurements were taken on the subjects' upper back using an Evaporimeter, a laser Doppler velocimetry instrument, a microwave probe, and a thermistor. Kawabata instrumentation was used to determine shear, bending, tensile, and compression, as well as surface features, of the three knit fabrics. Heat and moisture transfer properties of the fabrics were analyzed over a wide range of environmental conditions using the Kawabata Thermolabo. Rate of skin evaporative water loss was slower in the higher humidity environment. More water accumulated in the subjects' stratum corneum when they exercised in the humid environment. Capillary bloodflow was not significantly influenced by environment. Skin temperatures statistically differed in the two environments, but differences were negligible. In selecting loose fitting garments to be worn in hot environments, greater consideration should be given to openness of the fabric structure than to the fiber content. When garments fit the body snugly, fiber content may be of more critical importance in maintaining comfort.
Sino-Japanism In Western Women's Fashionable Dress In Harper's Bazar, 1890-1927
Authors: Hae Jeon Kim  , DeLong Marilyn R. 
Published: October 2007

Understanding change and its motivations in historic dress is complex because of fragmented information and the incomplete and possibly biased saving of objects of the past. In this study a media source contemporary to the period 1890-1927 was systematically analyzed for the extent and duration of Japanese and Chinese characteristics evident in forms of dress. Cultural authentication, including change in characterization and in unique forms of dress, was examined through verbal and visual references.Occurrences found within the 37 years covered by the study were quantified for analysis of patterns, and the Japanese and Chinese influences each formed a separate cycle. Dominant in the earlier periods were selection and characterization levels, often for occasions of intimate dressing. In the later periods more evidence of public presentation of self occurred with incorporation and transformation levels of cultural authentication. We found the most extensive assimilation in 1914 for the Japanese and in 1922 for the Chinese characteristics.
Specialty Retail Buyers' Evaluations of Regional Apparel Marts' Attributes
Authors: Hathcote Jan M. , Schulte Deborah D. 
Published: October 2007

This study examined low volume specialty retail buyers' desired attributes of eight regional apparel marts to determine the importance of general mart attributes and ultimately develop a Mart Choice Model. This model was adapted from Fishbein's Expectation Value Choice Model (1967), Bass and Talarzyk's Multi-Attribute Attitude Model (1972), and Mason and Mayer's Store Choice Model (1990). Using experimental factor analysis, a pre-study identified five general attributes that were labeled (1) Location, (2) Atmosphere, (3) Assortment, (4) Convenience and (5) Market Services. Specialty store buyers ranked the importance of each element comprising general attributes as well as the general attributes for any or all eight regional apparel marts that they had visited. The Mart Choice Model was then created from the findings by multiplying the average score associated with the overall perceived importance of each general attribute by the buyers' perceptions of a mart possessing those attributes.
Evaluation of Functional Fit of Chemical Protective Gloves for Agricultural Workers
Authors: Tremblay-Lutter Julie F. , Crown Elizabeth M. , Rigakis Katherine B. 
Published: October 2007

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the functional fit of commercially available protective gloves recommended to agricultural workers and to investigate the effect of polymer type, thickness of glove materials, and glove shape on such fit. The study was conducted in two parts. First the hand dimensions of the user population were estimated by conducting an anthropometric survey of 380 agricultural workers. This was followed by a fit evaluation of four test gloves by 38 farmers whose hand dimensions were representative of the user population. Fit was assessed by subjective evaluations of 15 specific hand dimensions for each glove and by conducting two standardized dexterity tests with participants bare-handed and wearing each of the four gloves. Significant differences in fit were found among gloves differing in polymer type, thickness and shape. Thinner gloves made from flexible polymers gave the most acceptable fit. Major design and sizing problems were identified for each of the four gloves. Gloves that fit snugly and enabled participants to complete dexterity tests at a rate comparable to bare hands received the highest subjective fit ratings. To enable agricultural workers to achieve optimum performance while completing fine manipulative tasks, the fit of gloves, especially in the fingers, must be improved.
Is Holistic Care Possible in the "Real Life" Clinical Setting?
Authors: White Joyce E. 
Published: October 2007

It is difficult to integrate a holistic perspective into the care which women receive in agencies such as prenatal clinics and family planning centers. Factors which mitigate against holism in these settings, the only source of health care for many women, include the separation of reproductive from comprehensive care, the categorical funding of services and the time pressure which rewards caring for more patients more quickly. At the same time there is growing evidence of the value of a holistic perspective to care. Using lifestyle assessments and developing an intervention strategy which includes the use of patient contracts can serve to integrate factors such as nutrition, stress management and exercise to form a broader perspective to care.
European Regional Development Fund and Northern Ireland: the additionality issue
Authors: Leslie David , McGurran Finbar , McDowell David 
Published: October 2007

The role of the ERDF in furthering the objective of wealth redistribution between member states of the EEC is examined with reference to tourism in Northern Ireland. A synopsis of the development of the ERDF, and the related Programmes, is presented, with particular emphasis given to the question of 'additionality' . Socio-economic factors influencing the categorisation of Northern Ireland as a 'less favoured area' are examined. The economic advantages of tourism, and associated developments supported by the ERDF, are discussed, leading to the recognition of the importance of local authorities. Questions are raised regarding the commitment of the latter which raises implications for further support.
April 1991 and Beyond: Are Health and Social Services Boards Catching the Tide of Change?
Authors: Connolly Michael , Russell Mary 
Published: October 2007

This paper is a preliminary assessment of the changed role of health and social services boards in Northern Ireland since their restructuring as management bodies by the government. Key changes in board restructuring are designed to make executive and non-executive board members more accountable and responsive to health user needs. This study seeks to discover some of the characteristics of the first group of board members. This includes their composition, operation and role. Non-executives are appointed on the basis of the professional and administrative expertise that they can contribute to the planning and policy- making processes performed at executive level. They need to be on par with executives who have now acquired the dual roles of policy planning and making decisions in the boardroom. For non-executives, a prior knowledge of the health service is not required; chairmen interviewed in this study prefer their members to show an interest in and demonstrate commitment to the health service.
Local Government and the NHS: Accountability in the Hollowed Out State
Authors: Bruce Allan , McConnell Allan 
Published: October 2007

The aim of this paper is to compare and contrast accountability within local government and the NHS in the UK. There are it seems a plethora of analyses which deal individually with each of these components of decentralised government, but few purport to compare and contrast the concept of account ability as it applies to both. A key theme of the analysis is that in spite of a number of differences between regimes of accountability in local government and the NHS, there are crucial similarities. These similarities need to be located within the political economy of the 1980s and the 1990s. The authors use Rhodes' concept of 'the hollowing out of the state' for consid ering the changes that have permeated local government and the NHS. The hollowed out state is conceptualised as a shift in the balance of power within the state towards the centre rather than as a weakening of the state, as the language may imply. This has had a crucial impact on accountability. In terms of the public services which are delivered under the auspices of local government and the NHS, it has meant that the centre has been attempting in effect to reconstitute the concept of accountability in accordance with its own predilections
Music Teachers' Role in Preparing Students for Live Symphonic Experiences
Authors: Brand Manny 
Published: October 2007

This study investigated the effect of varying the extent of music teacher involvement and training with concert-related instructional materials on student achievement and interest in music following live symphonic experiences. Three hundred and ninety-two middle school students were randomly assigned to one of six music teachers for the purposes of receiving pre-concert instruction. These six music teachers were randomly assigned to one of three different levels of involvement and training relative to the development and use of pre-concert instructional materials. Steps were taken to minimize teacher differences confounding with teacher involvement and training. There were no significant differences in music achievement or interest scores among middle school subjects based on the extent of their music teacher's involvement and training with pre-concert instructional materials. Based on this study, there are no benefits, specifically in terms of student achievement or interest, in music teachers having a high degree of involvement or training with concert-related instructional materials. Future researchers may wish to examine possible affective benefits when music teachers are involved in the design of and training with concert-related instructional materials.
Metcalf Laboratory School: A Report on a Model for Preservice Music Teacher Field Experiences
Authors: Snyder David W. 
Published: October 2007

This article reports on the first year of a collaborative effort between the instrumental methods students at Illinois State University and the beginning band and string program at Metcalf Laboratory School in Normal, Illinois, U.S.A. The curriculum of the University's methods course and the practices of the band and string program at Metcalf were aligned to allow preservice teachers from the university to work alongside the instrumental staff at Metcalf. The pedagogy learned in the methods classroom was put into practice. The university students benefited from 1) extended teaching time with the Metcalf students, (2) regular demonstration and feedback from both the university and Metcalf supervisor, (3) opportunities for peer evaluation, and (4) planned periods of reflection. The instrumental students at Metcalf achieved higher levels of proficiency on their instruments and progressed faster due to the increase in individual attention.
Practical Reason, Value and Action
Authors: Hills Alison 
Published: October 2007

AbstractHow should we decide which theory of practical reason is correct? One possibility is to link each conception of practical reason with a theory of value, and to assess the first in combination with the second. Recently some philosophers have taken a different approach. They have tried to link theories of practical reason with theories of action instead. I try to show that it can be illuminating to think of practical reason in terms of the success conditions of action, but ultimately this is in addition to, rather than a substitute for, relating practical reason to value as well. I set out three different conceptions of action and corresponding success conditions, and explain how each is linked to a particular conception of practical reason and, in two cases, to a theory of value too. My goal is to describe these different accounts, rather than to defend any in particular, though I will suggest that some are more satisfactory than others.