bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Entering, and returning from, the underworld: reconstituting Silbury Hill by combining a quantified landscape phenomenology with archaeoastronomy
Authors: Sims Lionel 
Published: May 2009

Landscape phenomenology limits the number of possible narratives for interpreting prehistoric monuments through the embodied experience of walking their remains in their landscape. While this method may improve upon an archaeology that narrows interpretation to single site excavations isolated in Euclidean space, it has been criticized for deploying unsubstantiated metaphors as an interpretative resource. Contemporary archaeoastronomy's dominant methodology submits regional groups of prehistoric monuments to rigorous statistical methods for testing whether perceived alignments were in fact intended by their builders. However, it is presently unable to saturate alignment findings with meaning, and reaches its limits when monuments are found to align on local landscape features rather than ‘astronomical’ bodies. Through a detailed examination of Silbury Hill in its landscape and late Neolithic/Early Bronze Age monument context, this article shows that problems in both methods can be transcended by studying the emergent properties generated by their combination. These emergent properties are consistent with the predictions of a recent anthropological model of lunar‐solar conflation.RésuméLa phénoménologie du paysage limite le nombre d'interprétations possibles des vestiges préhistoriques à celle obtenue par l'expérience vécue d'un arpentage dans leurs alentours. Bien que cette méthode puisse enrichir l'archéologie, qui restreint l'interprétation aux seules fouilles du site isolé dans l'espace euclidien, elle est critiquée pour l'usage de métaphores infondées comme sources d'interprétation. Par ailleurs, la méthodologie dominante de l'archéoastronomie contemporaine consiste à appliquer à des groupes régionaux de monuments préhistoriques des méthodes statistiques rigoureuses pour vérifier si les alignements perçus avaient effectivement été projetés par leurs constructeurs. Elle ne peut cependant pas saturer de signification les alignements retrouvés et atteint ses limites quand les monuments s'avèrent alignés sur des repères locaux du paysage plutôt que sur des corps « astronomiques ». À travers un examen détaillé de Silbury Hill dans son paysage et dans son contexte monumental du Néolithique et du Bronze ancien, l'article montre que les points faibles des deux méthodes peuvent être transcendés si l'on étudie les propriétés émergentes nées de leur combinaison. Ces nouvelles propriétés sont cohérentes avec les prédictions récentes d'un modèle anthropologique de rapprochement entre temps lunaire et temps solaire.
Beyond nature versus culture: cultural variation as an evolved characteristic*
Authors: Nettle Daniel 
Published: May 2009

There is a perceived dichotomy between evolutionary explanations for behaviour and social or cultural ones. In this essay, I attempt to dissolve this dichotomy by pointing out that organisms are susceptible to social or cultural influence because they have evolved mechanisms that make them so. I review two classes of evolutionary explanation for cultural variation, ‘evoked’ and ‘transmitted’ culture, and argue that these two classes of mechanism enrich and strengthen existing social science accounts, as well as making new predictions. I suggest a high degree of mutual compatibility and potential gains from trade between the social and biological sciences.RésuméLes explications du comportement opposent deux écoles de pensée, privilégiant les explications par l'évolution (biologique) et par le social ou la culture. Dans cet article, l'auteur tente de résoudre cette dichotomie en montrant que les organismes sont sensibles aux influences sociales et culturelles parce qu'ils ont acquis au cours de leur évolution des mécanismes qui leur confèrent cette sensibilité. Il étudie deux classes d'explications évolutionnistes des variations culturelles, celle de la culture «évoquée » et celle de la culture « transmise », et avance que ces deux types de mécanismes enrichissent et renforcent les comptes‐rendus existants, tout en permettant de nouvelles prédictions. L'article suggère qu'il existe une grande compatibilité mutuelle et qu'il y a beaucoup à gagner des échanges entre sciences sociales et naturelles.
HIV‐infected long‐term nonprogressors display a unique correlative pattern between the interleukin‐7/interleukin‐7 receptor circuit and T‐cell homeostasis
Authors: Marchetti G , Riva A , Cesari M , Bellistrì G M , Gianelli E , Casabianca A , Orlandi C , Magnani M , Meroni L , D'Arminio Monforte A , Mussini C , Cossarizza A , Galli M , Gori A ,   for the Elvis Study Group
Published: May 2009

BackgroundWe hypothesized that there may be a correlation between the interleukin‐7 (IL‐7)/IL‐7 receptor (IL‐7R) regulatory system and parameters of T‐cell homeostasis in HIV‐infected long‐term nonprogressors (LTNPs) as compared with patients with disease progression.MethodsThe possibility of a correlation between T‐cell homeostatic parameters and IL‐7/IL‐7R was investigated in 22 LTNPs (CD4 count ≥500 cells/μL for >10 years) vs. HIV‐positive patients at different disease stages [12 early: CD4 count ≥400 cells/μL; 15 late (AIDS‐presenters): CD4 count ≤150 cells/μL].ResultsCompared with early‐stage HIV‐positive patients, LTNPs displayed a higher circulating IL‐7 concentration (P=0.05), which was positively associated with higher IL‐7Rα expression and a higher T‐cell receptor excision circle (TREC) content specifically within CD4 cells (P<0.05). Compared with late‐stage disease patients, early‐stage disease patients displayed a lower IL‐7 concentration (P<0.01) and higher percentages of IL‐7Rα+ CD4 and CD8 cells (P=0.05). IL‐7 was positively correlated with the percentage of TREC+ CD4 cells (P<0.01), which translated into a higher percentage of naïve CD4 cells in early‐stage disease patients than in late‐stage disease patients; however, the CD4 cells in early‐stage disease patients were less enriched in recent thymic emigrants (RTEs) compared with LTNPs (P<0.05). In late‐stage AIDS‐developing patients, substantially increased IL‐7 was correlated with a decreased percentage of IL‐7Rα+ CD4 cells (P=0.01), which resulted in these patients having a significantly lower percentage of naïve T cells (P<0.01) and a significantly lower content of TREC (P<0.01) than the other patients.ConclusionsThe maintenance of high CD4 cell counts in LTNPs was associated with a specific IL‐7/IL‐7R pattern characterized by increased IL‐7 and highest IL‐7Rα‐expressing CD4 cells relative to other patients. Compared with patients with late‐stage disease, LTNPs displayed a phenotypically naïve, less activated CD4 cell pool highly enriched in RTEs, suggesting the existence of a compensatory IL‐7‐mediated pathway specifically sustaining peripheral CD4 counts.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 217–224 (May/June 2008)  In vivo spectrophotometric evaluation of skin barrier recovery after topical application of soybean phytosterols
Authors: Puglia C. , Bonina F. 
Published: May 2009

SynopsisThe skin's uppermost thin layer, stratum corneum, plays a crucial role in protecting the body against unwanted influences from the environment. Disruption of the stratum corneum, by tape stripping or chemical injury, results in epidermal recovery of the skin barrier. Soy phytosterols are widely used in the cosmetic field as active ingredients in creams and lipsticks. Furthermore, they deserve an important place among nutracosmeceuticals; in fact, after their absorption from the diet they are transferred from the plasma to the skin, playing an important role in the constitution of skin surface lipids. The aim of the present work was to study the effect of the topical application of soybean phytosterols on skin barrier recovery in human volunteers using the extent of methyl nicotinate (MN)‐induced erythema in damaged skin as a parameter to evaluate the rate of stratum corneum recovery. MN was chosen as an erythematogenous substance for its capability to cause an erythema whose intensity and duration are proportional to the quantity of the substance that has entered the living epidermis over time. MN‐induced erythema was monitored using reflectance spectrophotometry as a non‐invasive instrumental technique. The results show clearly that soy phytosterols exert positive results on skin repair; in fact, 3 days after tape stripping, the sites treated with a formulation containing phytosterols showed an appreciable recovery of barrier function compared to those treated with a vehicle control without soy phytosterols.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 225–232 (May/June 2008) AFM capabilities in characterization of particles and surfaces: from angstroms to microns*
Authors: Starostina N. , Brodsky M. , Prikhodko S. , Hoo C. M. , Mecartney M. L. , West P. 
Published: May 2009

SynopsisScanning probe microscopy (SPM), invented 25 years ago, is now routinely employed as a surface characterization technique. Atomic force microscopy (AFM) is the most widely used form of SPM, since AFM can be used in ambient conditions with minimal sample preparation. Examples of applications relevant to cosmetics include, but are not limited to, hair and skin roughness measurements and powder particle and nano‐emulsion characterization. AFM is well suited for individual particle characterization, especially for measurements of volume, height, size, shape, aspect ratio, and particle surface morphology. Statistical distributions for a large set of particles can be generated through single‐particle analysis techniques (i.e. ensemble‐like information). AFM is better capable of resolving complex particle‐size distributions than dynamic light‐scattering (DLS). Single‐particle analysis techniques with AFM can be more cost‐and time‐effective than analyses using scanning electron microscopy (SEM). However, AFM offers resolution that is comparable to or greater than SEM or transmission electron microscopy (TEM) and routinely allows direct measurements of the particle height and volume and produces images easily displayed in a quantified 3D format.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 233–242 (May/June 2008)  Electrospun poly (vinyl alcohol) fiber mats as carriers for extracts from the fruit hull of mangosteen
Authors: Opanasopit P. , Ruktanonchai U. , Suwantong O. , Panomsuk S. , Ngawhirunpat T. , Sittisombut C. , Suksamran T. , Supaphol P. 
Published: May 2009

SynopsisElectrospinning is a process used to produce ultrafine fibers with diameters in the nanometer range. Electrospun fiber mats have high potentials for biomedical uses, due to their high surface area and ease of drug incorporation into the fibers. They can be used as carriers for drug delivery and can enhance drug release and skin permeability. The aim of this study was to prepare electrospun fiber mats and to incorporate extracts from the fruit hull of mangosteen. Anti‐oxidant activity and extract release were determined and compared between the extract incorporated in the electrospun fiber mats and in the cast films. Poly (vinyl alcohol) (PVA) was selected as the polymer matrix. Extracts in the amount of 2.5%, 5%, and 10% w/w, based on the weight of PVA, were incorporated with 10% w/w PVA to finally obtain electrospun fiber mats and cast films. The extract content was evaluated by anti‐oxidative activity using the 2,2‐diphenyl‐1picryhydrazyl (DPPH) method. The morphology of the electrospun fiber mats was analyzed using a scanning electron microscope (SEM). The results showed that the diameters of the fibers were in nanoscales and that no crystal of the extract was found at any concentration of the extract. The extract contents in the electrospun fiber mats prepared at 2.5%, 5%, and 10% w/w of the extract were 9.6%, 9.7%, and 10.8% of the initial loading concentration, respectively, whereas, those in the cast films were 23.9%, 14.5%, and 21.0%, respectively. The release of the extract from the electrospun fiber mats prepared at 2.5%, 5%, and 10% w/w of the extract at 120 min were 73.2%, 83.6%, and 81.3% w/w, respectively. However, much slower release from the cast films was observed (i.e. 4.3%, 29.1%, and 40.8% w/w, respectively).
Design and application of a screening and training protocol for odour testers in the field of personal care products
Authors: Maxeiner B. , Ennen J. , Rützel‐Grünberg S. , Traupe B. , Wittern K.‐P. , Schmucker R. , Keyhani R. 
Published: May 2009

SynopsisThe assessment of odours and in particular of human axillary odour is an integral part of the research and development of deodorant and anti‐perspirant products. One method to perform odour assessment is the odour evaluation that is carried out by experts, designated as odour testers or sniffers. Product development decisions are therefore based on human assessment. As for every scientific measurement, the influencing factors need to be standardized or regularly calibrated as effectively as possible for reasons of quality assurance. We therefore developed a screening and training concept aiming to examine the general suitability of odour testers by determining the individual odour sensitivity for relevant odours. This newly developed method is based on the national and international standards and guidelines EN 13725:2003, VDI 3882 sheet 1 and ASTM‐1207. Suitable odour testers are subsequently trained to correlate their individual odour intensity perception with an intensity calibration scale in order to achieve reproducible results. Training sessions held on a regular basis help to achieve a greater homology in the response of an existing panel. Our established screening and training protocol has already been successfully put into practice and is also subject to permanent improvement with regard to practical requirements.
Combined structural and biological activities for new polyunsaturated fatty derivatives obtained by biotechnological process
Authors: Couturier L. , Yvergnaux F. 
Published: May 2009

SynopsisThe objective of this study is to demonstrate the use of new polyunsaturated fatty derivatives for cutaneous applications. These new compounds present an analogue structure of cutaneous lipid, stabilize the polyunsaturated fatty acids (face to oxidation) and demonstrate specific biological activities. Three molecules described are Omega 6 fatty acid stabilized compound (O6FASC), the O3FASC and the O9FASC. The derivatives are synthesized via the same biotechnological process. This work describes the choice of final structure, the design of the biotechnological process and the free solvent enzymatic synthesis used for the synthesis of these three cutaneous lipid analogues. The restructuring effect of such analogues has been demonstrated with an in vivo study on volunteers. The stabilization of the O3FASC and O6FASC, and the biological activities of these three compounds are presented. The O6FASC shows very good results in anti‐inflammatory effects; the O3FASC has anti‐stress activities, whereas the O9FASC presents interesting results in improving elasticity and firmness. All these activity tests are presented in this work.
Antioxidant capacity of 3D human skin EpiDermTM model: effects of skin moisturizers
Authors: Grazul‐Bilska A. T. , Bilski J. J. , Redmer D. A. , Reynolds L. P. , Abdullah K. M. , Abdullah A. 
Published: May 2009

SynopsisThe objective of this study was to determine the effects of skin moisturizers on total antioxidant capacity (TAC) of human skin using EpiDermTM model. Three different skin moisturizers containing antioxidant ingredients (samples 1–3) or aloe vera extract were topically applied to EpiDermTM units and incubated for 2 and 24 h to determine acute and longer‐term effects of applied samples on TAC and glutathione peroxidase activity in medium and/or homogenized skin tissues. Total antioxidant capacity in medium and skin homogenates was enhanced (P < 0.0001) by gel containing antioxidant ingredients (sample 2) after 2 and 24 h of incubation. Total antioxidant capacity in medium was also enhanced (P < 0.001) by cream containing antioxidant ingredients (sample 3) after 24 h of incubation. Overall, TAC in medium was greater (P < 0.02) after 24 h than 2 h of incubation. Skin moisturizer cream with high antioxidant levels determined by using oxygen radical absorbance capacity testing (sample 1) and aloe vera extract did not affect TAC. Glutathione peroxidase activity was enhanced (P < 0.0001) in medium and skin homogenates by sample 2 but not by any other sample. These data demonstrate high potential of gel and cream (samples 2 and 3) containing antioxidant ingredients in enhancing antioxidant capacity of EpiDermTM which will likely contribute to overall skin health. Results of this experiment will help to better understand mechanisms of effects of skin moisturizers containing antioxidant ingredients on skin function at the tissue level and to establish effective strategies for skin protection and clinical treatments of skin disorders and possibly healing wounds.
Design and evaluation of a photoprotective compound able to release taurine under conditions of oxidative stress
Authors: Lafitte P. , Valenti Lionel , Casciani Lydia , Hoarau Thierry , Lomonte E. , Maccario Frédéric , Nicola Jean‐François 
Published: May 2009

Citation: IFSCC Magazine, 11 (2008) (2) 105–112Abstract:  A novel photoprotective ingredient with anti‐oxidant and electrophilic scavenging properties was designed. A structure–activity relationship study was conducted in order to optimize its bioavailability, specifically its ability to reach deep layers of the skin that may be affected by ultraviolet radiation‐induced oxidative stress. A particular characteristic of this compound is its ability to release taurine upon reaction with some reactive oxygen species. In situ taurine formation may contribute to photoprotection. Preliminary in vitro experiments provide some evidence for effective protection against UVA‐induced oxidative stress. Scavenging of the electrophilic species 4‐hydroxynonenal, a highly cytotoxic end product of membrane lipid peroxidation, seems to be 2‐oxo‐1,3‐thiazolidine major photoprotective mechanism.Keywords:  antioxidant, electrophilic species scavenging, photoprotection, structure‐activity relationship, taurinePaper presented at the IFSCC Conference 2007, Amsterdam, The Netherlands
No. 1  Vol. 42, No. 3, pp. 185–200, 2008  A tentative mechanism of oxidative dyeing for keratin fibers
Authors: Joko K. , Yoshikatsu Y. 
Published: May 2009

A number of papers have been published on the oxidation coupling reactions of the active intermediate of a dye precursor with an electron‐rich dye coupler. At the present stage, however, little information is available about the oxidative reaction mechanism to colored oxidation products and the dye distribution inside the keratin fibers. From the results of dyeing in the presence of both reducing agent and chelate agent, we found that the coupling reaction developing oxidation dyes occurred on the outer surface in the cuticle cell phase, and that not only the cell membrane complex (CMC) regions play an important role as accumulation regions of the finished dye, but also the components of CMC contribute directly to the oxidation coupling reactions. Furthermore, we suggested from the other results that the metal ions and disulphide bond presented primarily within the intercellular materials play an important role in developing the colored oxidation dye. Then, on the basis of the general scheme of the oxidation dye process, we proposed a tentative mechanistic scheme of oxidative dyeing to account for the oxidation dying phenomenon of keratin fibers. The scheme is made up of four step‐reactions.Keywords:  oxidation dye, oxidative dyeing, precursor, coupler, active intermediate, keratin fiber, chelate agent, cell membrane complex, intercellular materials, metal ion, disulphide bond
No. 2  Vol. 42, No. 3, pp. 201–217, 2008  Enhancing facial beauty: diminishing tension‐caused forehead wrinkles through upper back massage
Authors: Oba A. , Sato C. , Takahashi K. , Futagawa M. 
Published: May 2009

The organs and tissues of the human body function together, and many women know that facial skin quality can be influenced by the condition of other areas. From the perspective of esthetics, the condition of other tissues and organs can have significant impact on facial skin. In our lives, increasing numbers of people experience pain and discomfort in the neck and shoulder region; this study investigates the effects of neck/shoulder pain and discomfort on facial beauty, and demonstrates that facial beauty can be improved by alleviating this pain and discomfort. Shoulder pain and discomfort are correlated to increased shoulder muscle stiffness, increased tension in the frontalis muscle (a muscle of facial expression in the forehead, and forehead wrinkling. We show that body massage aimed at alleviating muscle tension in the neck and upper back alleviate frontalis muscle tension and improve forehead wrinkles. Since other non‐facial factors are likely to affect facial beauty, our results show that measures to make the face beautiful and healthy‐looking involve the entire body.Keywords:  facial beauty, non‐facial factors, entire body, neck/shoulder pain and discomfort, shoulder muscle stiffness, frontalis muscle tension, forehead wrinkles, body massage aimed at alleviating muscle tension
No. 3  Vol. 42, No. 3, pp. 218–225, 2008  Optimizing performance of makeup products by controlling surface free energy
Authors: Toyoda T. , Iyanagi H. , Mohri K. , Nakamae K. 
Published: May 2009

We investigated the use of Surface Free Energy (SFE) measurements, describing coherence between surfaces of two solids, in evaluation of affinity between skin surface and foundation, a possible predictor of makeup longevity. We found that the gp values of skin varied significantly among subjects. After discovering that the SFE values of most available conventional foundation products were very different from that of skin, specially formulated experimental foundations with SFE values close to that of the skin surface were prepared using conventional powder ingredients and novel powder ingredients coated with polyethylene glycol. In our usage tests, the SFE‐controlled foundations demonstrated superior performance to that of conventional foundations and most of subjects preferred the SFE‐controlled foundations. Examination with a digital microscope revealed that SFE‐controlled foundations adhered evenly all over the skin surface, while conventional foundations tended to localize on the skin surface, offering support to the usage test result.Keywords:  surface free energy, contact angle, adherability, skin properties, surface treatment, makeup foundation