bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
An inorganic biocide using a novel presentation of silver
Authors: CORBETT R.J. 
Published: September 2010

SynopsisA silver‐based preservative system has been developed which overcomes difficulties often associated with metals, namely solubility, dispersion and toxicity. It comprises a silver chloride titanium dioxide composite which allows the controlled release of silver ions. Microbiological data has shown the composite to be active at concentrations less than 25 ppm against a wide range of micro‐organisms, including Gram‐negative non‐fermentative bacteria, yeasts and moulds. The composite has satisfactory preservative activity against bacteria and fungi at application concentrations of between 50 ppm and 500 ppm, depending on the formulation. At high concentrations (>300 ppm) there may be some grey discoloration of the product, but the composite remains effective. To overcome this problem, a system of enhancing antimicrobial activity was devised, based on a sulphosuccinate salt dispersing agent. This allows lower concentrations of composite to be used whilst maintaining equivalent antimicrobial activity.
Skin color and makeup strategies of women from different ethnic groups
Authors: Caisey L. , Grangeat F. , Lemasson A. , Talabot J. , Voirin A. 
Published: September 2010

SynopsisThe development of a world‐wide makeup foundation range requires a thorough understanding of skin color features of women around the world. To understand the cosmetic needs of women from different ethnic groups, we measured skin color in five different groups (French and American Caucasian, Japanese, African‐American, and Hispanic‐American) and compared the data obtained with women's self‐perception of skin color, before or after applying their usual foundation product. Skin color was measured using a spectro‐radiometer and a spheric lighting device with CCD camera ensuring a highly reliable imaging and data acquisition. The diversity of skin types involved in the study lead to define a large, continuous color space where color spectra from various ethnic groups overlap. Three types of complexion – dark, medium, or light – were distinguished in each group. Only Japanese women did not identify with this lightness scale and considered it makes more sense to classify their skin according to a pink–ocher–beige color scale. The approach however revealed the great variety of skin colors within each ethnic group and the extent of unevenness. A fairly good agreement appeared between women's self‐perception and data from color measurements but in Hispanic‐American group. Data recorded, after foundation was applied, showed overall consistency with makeup strategy as described by volunteers except for the latter group whose approach looked more uncertain and variable. The findings of the study demonstrate the advantage of combining qualitative and quantitative approach for assessing the cosmetic needs and expectations of women from different ethnic origin and cultural background.
The riddle of genuine skin microrelief and wrinkles
Authors: Quatresooz P. , Thirion L. , Piérard‐Franchimont C. , Piérard G.E. 
Published: September 2010

SynopsisWrinkles result from distinct structural changes occurring in specific parts of the dermis and subcutaneous tissue. There is a need for evidenced‐based cosmetology identifying and quantifying the different aspects of wrinkling. Histology allows to detect specific changes associated with particular types of wrinkles. Four main types of wrinkles can thus be recognized, including the atrophic crinkling rhytids, the permanent elastotic creases, the dynamic expression lines, and the gravitational folds. Each type usually develops on specific skin regions exhibiting distinct microanatomical characteristics. Whereas skin microrelief, expression lines and skin folds appear clearly marked at the histological level, only little dermal changes are identified under other reducible or permanent wrinkles compared with the skin immediately adjacent to them. Distinguishing different types of wrinkles brings more precision to the clinical practice. This is of importance because the different types of wrinkles respond differently to cosmetic, dermatological and surgical treatments.
Equivalence of face and volar forearm for the testing of moisturizing and firming effect of cosmetics in hydration and biomechanical studies
Authors: Bazin R. , Fanchon C. 
Published: September 2010

SynopsisThe objective of the study was to compare measurements of skin hydration and of biomechanical properties performed on different zones of face and volar forearm. Two short‐term (1 h) and two long‐term (3 weeks) studies were conducted with a moisturizing and a firming product, respectively, on groups of female volunteers with dry skin. Measurements (Corneometer® and Dermal Torque Meter® or DTM) were performed on different zones of the face and of the volar forearm, 1 h after product application, and after 1, 2 and 3 weeks of repeated twice daily application. While the sebaceous‐gland rich T‐zone behaves differently, probably due to sebum/skin, sebum/product and/or sebum/measuring device interactions, there are no statistically significant differences between measurements made on temple, cheek, maxilla and volar forearm. The volar forearm is representative of the face for measuring skin hydration and biomechanical properties, and relevant for the assessment of the efficacy of cosmetic products destined for facial use.
MAPS FOR MANAGERS: WHERE ARE WE? WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE?
Authors: Fiol C. Marlene , Huff Anne Sigismund 
Published: September 2010

ABSTRACTResearch on managerial cognition in genetal, and on cognitive mapping in particular, is receving a great deal of attention in Europe and the US, but the work being done is currently disparate and loosely coupled. Furthermor, the development of maps as a decision aid has tended to focus on specific sub‐areas of cognition. In this article we argue that the broad strategic concerns of managers require a portfolio of different kinds of cognitive maps. The interactions among these maps are as important as the functions of each one separately. We develop a framework for classifying cognitice maps and argue for the importance of managing multiple maps.
THE ANALYSIS OF CAUSE MAPS
Authors: Eden Colin , Ackermann Fran , Cropper Steve 
Published: September 2010

ABSTRACTCause maps are coded following many different conventions. It is therefore arguable that there can be no general approach to their analysis. Indeed the interpretation and meaning of the analysis can only be undertaken in relation to both the purpose of the research and the theoretical basis of the form of representation to be analysed, be it a cause map, network, or any other graphical picture. Given these reservations, this article outlines a number of techniques for the analysis of cause maps.In order to make the arguments about cause‐map analyses concrete, the article suggests what the various analyses described might imply for an understanding and evaluation of cognitive complexity. It does not address the difficult issue relating to the status of cognitive complexity as measured in these ways but rather simply notes that they are each as plausible or more plausible than many others that are often used. Ultimately the measures are to be taken as a portfolio of indicators of the complexity of the map itself.
MAPPING OF AN IDIOSYNCRATIC SCHEMA*
Authors: Cossette Pierre , Audet Michel 
Published: September 2010

ABSTRACTAmong researchers interested in organizations and management, some of those who use cognitive mapping share a common objective: to improve organizational action. Some intervene directly at the level of the organization while others prefer to achieve this indirectly, by working at the individual level. Nevertheless those who work at the individual level rely on the ‘emancipatory’properties of a cognitive map, which facilitates reflectiveness.After calling upon the notions of natural logic, schematization, contextuality, representation, knowledge and schema to characterize the cognitive map and its construction, we present a case, that of the idiosyncratic map of the owner‐manager of a small business. We describe the mode of construction of the map and its content. A critical discussion follows underlining the traps to avoid, the elements to be improved and those that should be kept for construction of future idiosyncratic maps.
A GIS‐Based Procedure for Downscaling Climate Data for West Africa
Authors: Akinyemi Felicia O , Adejuwon James O 
Published: September 2010

AbstractLocal studies aimed at assessing the impact of climate variability on crop yield at the individual farm level require the use of weather and climate data. These are often collected at points known as meteorological stations. In West Africa, meteorological stations are sparsely distributed and as a result, are often unable to satisfy the data requirements for such studies. One major problem arising from this is how to estimate values for locations where primary data is not available. General Circulation Models (GCMs) have recently been deployed for weather forecasting and climate change projections but the resolution of their outputs is low requiring downscaling. This article describes a GIS‐based procedure for downscaling GCMs’ outputs for use in studies assessing the impacts of climate variability on crop yield at the farm level. The procedure is implemented with the Hadley Centre's GCM (HadCM2) data, although any other GCM can be used. Results in this study show that the model works best when representing drier months as compared to wet months in all three domains tested. For example, it estimated the rainfall for January (the driest month) better than that of July which is the peak of the rainy season in West Africa. There is also a north‐south pattern influencing the accuracy of estimated rainfall distribution, with stations in the south better represented than those in the north. For the greater part of West Africa where similar climatic conditions persist as in Nigeria, this procedure can be considered suitable for interpolation and downscaling.
ON ‘TENSENESS’ IN MODERN ICELANDIC1
Authors: ALLEN W. SIDNEY 
Published: September 2010

ABSTRACTModern Icelandic presents phonological oppositions between two series of stop consonants and two series of vowels. Unlike in Old Icelandic, these are not phonetically characterized by voice in the former case or length in the latter, and the modern distinguishing features have commonly been described in both cases as ‘tenseness’ (versus ‘laxness’). There has, however, been no adequate definition of this feature, and the distinctions involved are fully describable in terms of various more traditional and observable processes. There is in fact no one feature common to the consonantal and vocalic oppositions in question; and even within each of these some problems arise when one attempts to find a single defining criterion. Various possible solutions are examined and evaluated. Some consideration is also given to the relevant historical and dialectal dimensions.
COLOUR TERMS IN CATALAN: AN INVESTIGATION OF EIGHTY INFORMANTS, CONCENTRATING ON THE PURPLE AND BLUE REGIONS1
Authors: DAVIES IAN , CORBETT GREVILLE , MARGALEF JOSÉ BAYO 
Published: September 2010

ABSTRACTWe set out to establish the ‘basic’ colour term inventory of Catalan, and to see if the inventory was consistent with Berlin and Kay's theory of colour universals. Pilot work had indicated that, like Russian, Catalan might have more than the maximum eleven ‘permissible’ basic colour terms allowed by Berlin and Kay's theory, and have more than one basic term for blue. A sample of adults and a sample of children performed a colour list task (in which they were asked to give as many colour terms as they knew) and a colour naming task. The list task provided a general indication of the likely basic colour terms, and the naming task indicated the referents of these terms. The results show that Catalan is best described as a standard stage seven Berlin and Kay language with just eleven basic colour terms. However, it has more than one salient term in the blue region and these correspond to the exceptional blue terms of Russian. Furthermore, whilst Catalan has a basic term for purple, its focus is unusually displaced from Berlin and Kay's ‘universal’ focus for purple, and this may be related to the way in which Catalan segments the blue region.
BARRIERS TO THE STANDARDIZATION OF THE BRETON LANGUAGE1
Authors: PRESS J. IAN 
Published: September 2010

ABSTRACTThe decline of many European languages is related to their marginalization by recent sociopolitical developments: modernization, centralization, industrialization; but in the case of Celtic Breton it is also linked to long‐standing isolation. The concepts of codification and standardization are separable. Breton, in spite of a fine literature, has, through lack of prestige and of public presence, dialectal fragmentation, the ‘mentalities forged by history’ (Hagège 1987:198), and dissension among speakers, never achieved real standardization. It is feared that current support may be too late, though the untiring efforts being made by activists give cause for hope.
Protective effect of collagen upon irritation response of detergents
Authors: MORGANTI P. , MUSCARDIN L. , FABRIZI G. 
Published: September 2010

SynopsisIn order to evaluate the protective effect of collagen solution on the skin in the case of an irritation response to detergents, it was measured, by a washing simulator, on collagen‐pretreated human skin (3% solution of native acid‐soluble collagen) after washing with different cleansers. Moreover, collagen protective effects were evaluated on human skin by chamber test methodology (fifty women aged 20–35). Human data obtained demonstrate a rather general property of collagen solution, used in protecting the skin from the harsh effects of various cleansing preparations.L'effet protecteur du collagène a l'action irritante des détergentsRésuméOn sait que la diminution de l'humidité relative de l'atmosphère qui entraine un dimunition de la teneur en eau de la couche cornée est le facteur principal de la perte de souplesse de la peau. Le vent ainsi que l'utilisation de l'eau et du savon peuvent constituer des facteurs agravants.En fait, lorsque la peau est traitée de façon répétitive par des savons, des détergents, des lotions ou des crèmes de nettoyage, il se produit souvent une irritation des tissus dont l'importance dépend de la fréquence et de la durée du traitement, de la concentration des détergents et plus généralement de la formulation des produits utilisés. On a voulu évaluer l'effet protecteur des solutions de collagène sur la peau humaine avec des solutions à 3% de collagène natif acido soluble et on a utilisé un simulateur de lavage pour appliquer différents produits de nettoyage.L'effet protecteur du collagène a été évalué par la ‘chamber test methodology’ sur 50 femmes agées de 20 à 35 ans. Les résultats obtenus montrent que la solution de collagène exerce un effet protecteur à l'encontre de l'irritation dûe aux produits de nettoyage. La raison de cette efficacité n'est pas claire.Les réactions inflammatoires qui sont réduites de façon significative et la plus faible solubilisation de certaines fractions des protéines de la peau sont probablement dûes à une diminution du pouvoir dégraissant des solutions détergentes.Le collagène forme vraisemblablement un film autour des micelles de détergent et modère de ce fait l'action des savons et des pains de détergents. Cet effet protecteur peut également être expliqué par un mécanisme qui met en oeuvre l'absorption du collagène sur la surface externe du stratum corneum.
Substantivity of perfume materials to hair
Authors: BLAKEWAY J. M. , SEU‐SALERNO M. 
Published: September 2010

SynopsisThe substantivity of seven fragrance materials from a surfactant solution to human hair has been followed both olfactively and by gas chromatography. From an 0.5% solution in sodium lauryl 2 ethoxy sulphate solution between 0.13 mg g−1 hair and 0.72 mg g−1 hair were absorbed, giving strong retained odour on the hair; amyl salicylate showed the greatest absorption. After 24 h air drying, up to 0.01 to 0.08 mg g−1 hair remained, giving different odour strengths dependent on the molecule used.Mixtures gave somewhat lower substantivity and increased concentration in the shampoo base gave an increase in the amount absorbed on the hair. The percentage uptake however decreased. The mechanism appears to be a simple partitioning of the organic molecules between the water phase and keratin, the effect being wholly reversible as the molecules evaporate when left in air.The technique gives a method of objectively studying perfume substantivity to hair.Substantivité des parfums aux cheveuxRésuméLa substantivité aux cheveux humains de sept matiéres premières de parfumerie en shampooing, a été étudiée olfactivement et par chromatographie en phase gazeuse. Les matières premières ont été incorporées dans la solution de shampooing (lauryl ether sulfate à raison de 0.5%). Les cheveux absorbent entre 0.13 mg g−1 et 0.72 mg g−1 donnant une forte rétention olfactive sur les cheveux. Le salicylate d'amyle montre l'absorption la plus importante. Après 24 heures à tempàrature ambiante, il persiste 0.01 à 0.08 mg g−1 sur les cheveux.Les mélanges sont moins substantifs que les molécules prises individuellement, mais l'augmentation de la concentration dans la base shampooing permet l'accroissement de la quantité dc mélange absorbé par les cheveux. Le mécanisme de la substantivité ne parait être qu'une répartition des molécules organiques entre la phase aqueuse et la kératine, l'effet est totalement réversible du fait de l'évaporation des molécules lors du séchage des cheveux à température ambiante.La technique donne un méthode objective pour étudier la substantivité des matières premières do parfumerie aux cheveux.
Increased carbonyl protein levels in the stratum corneum of the face during winter
Authors: Kobayashi Y. , Iwai I. , Akutsu N. , Hirao T. 
Published: September 2010

SynopsisThe stratum corneum (SC) is the interface between the body and the environment, and is continuously exposed to oxidative stress that results in carbonyl modification of proteins. We previously developed a simple and non‐invasive method to assess the stratum corneum carbonyl protein (SCCP) levels. In this study, we used this method to examine the seasonal changes in the SCCP levels and the relationship between the SCCP level and the physiological condition of the SC. SC was collected from the face of healthy Japanese volunteers by adhesive tape stripping and its carbonyl groups were determined by reaction with fluorescein‐5‐thiosemicarbazide. The average fluorescence intensity of the SC was calculated as the SCCP level. The SCCP level in the cheek was higher in winter than summer. The SCCP level was negatively correlated with the water content in the SC measured by the conductance and capacitance, and also negatively correlated with the extensibility of the skin measured by a Cutometer, suggesting that the mechanical properties of the skin can be affected by oxidative modification of the SC. These data suggest the involvement of oxidative modification of SC proteins in the generation of rough skin during winter.
Confocal Raman microspectroscopy of stratum corneum: a pre‐clinical validation study
Authors: Wu J. , Polefka T. G. 
Published: September 2010

SynopsisSkin moisturization is not only important for maintaining skin functional properties but also has great impact on the skin’s aesthetic properties. The top layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), plays a key role in protecting and preventing against external aggressions as well as in regulating water flux in and out. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is the first commercially available technique that provides a non‐invasive, in vivo method to determine depth profiles of water concentration in the skin, however, in this case it was applied in an in vitro setting. As the first phase of validating the usefulness of confocal Raman microspectroscopy, we used porcine skin as a surrogate for human skin. Water concentration profiles were obtained using confocal Raman microspectroscopy from isolated pigskin SC and compared with that using the Karl Fischer titration method. The two methods correlated very well with a regression coefficient of 1.07 as well as a correlation coefficient, R2 = 0.989, which demonstrated the consistency and accuracy of confocal Raman microspectroscopy for water concentration determination. To evaluate the instrument’s response to different skin care/cleansing products, a wide range of products were tested to compare their skin moisturization ability. Among those tested were a lotion, commercial soap bar, syndet bar, traditional non‐emollient shower gel (water, Sodium Laureth Ether Sulfate (SLES), cocamidopropyl betaine system) and emollient containing shower gel (water, sunflower oil, SLES, cocamidopropyl betaine, glycerin, petrolatum). The results were consistent with what was expected. The water content on skin treated with (A) lotion was significantly higher than the non‐treated control; (B) syndet bar‐treated skin had a significantly higher water content than soap‐based bar‐treated sites; (C) non‐emollient shower gel washed sites were more moisturized than soap‐based bar‐treated samples; and (D) emollient shower gel‐treated skin was significantly more hydrated than non‐emollient shower gel washed skin. The unique and direct quantitative water content information provided by confocal Raman microspectroscopy offers a whole new perspective for fundamental skin moisturization studies and will play an important role in evaluating moisturizing profiles and the hydration potential of products designed for personal care in the cosmetic industry.
Topical granulocyte colony‐stimulating factor for the treatment of oral and genital ulcers of patients with Behçet's disease
Authors: Bacanli A , Yerebakan Dicle O , Parmaksizoglu B , Yilmaz E , Alpsoy E 
Published: September 2010

AbstractBackground  Recurrent and painful ulcers of the oral mucosa and genital skin/mucosa are the most commonly observed manifestations in patients with Behçet's disease (BD). They affect patients’ quality of life. Because of the effectiveness of granulocyte colony‐stimulating factor (G‐CSF) in wound healing, it may also be useful for the treatment of oral ulcers (OU) and genital ulcers (GU) of BD.Objective  We aimed to determine the efficacy of topically applied G‐CSF in the treatment of OU and GU of BD.Methods  Seven patients with BD diagnosed according to the criteria of the International Study Group for Behçet's Disease were involved in the study. The patients were observed for 3 months before the study, and all occurrences were recorded during this period. Patients were given topical G‐CSF for OU (4 × 120 µg/day, for 5 days) and/or GU (4 × 30 µg/day, for 5 days) and followed‐up for 3 months after treatment. No concurrent disease‐specific or immunosuppressive topical or systemic drugs were given during the study period.Results  G‐CSF treatment decreased the healing time and pain of OU and GU in six of seven patients compared with the pretreatment period. However, the effectiveness of the G‐CSF treatment on OU and GU healing time and pain severity did not continue during the post‐treatment period.Conclusions  G‐CSF has beneficial effects on the healing duration and pain severity of OU and GU of patients with BD. However, given the high cost, impractical preparation and inability to cure the disease, G‐CSF treatment should be chosen only in selected patients.