bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Progress of Package Dyeing with Vat Dyes and Indigosols
Authors: Smith Fred 
Published: July 2010

Hot‐dyeing vat dyes strike on to the fibre very quickly even at low temperatures. With open‐beck dyeing on hanks, small lots only could be dyed with any success. On cotton in hank or on properly wound cones, cheeses, or beams, package dyeing enables the dyer to put the dye liquor where it is required more quickly and more evenly and produce a good result without the use of retarding or levelling agents. Should there be any slight fault in the build of the package, faulty dyeing will be the result. Higher temperatures up to 200d̀ F., with dyes that will stand them, will sometimes overcome these faults. It is safer to use a suitable retarding agent from the start. The same remarks apply to the dyes of Classes B and C that strike very quickly.The introduction of stainless steel machines has led to greater use of the package system.Large weights of cotton yarn are now dyed in one batch with vat dyes, up to 2000 1b. suitable for casements, denims, gaberdines, etc.Loose Fibro and Fibro yarns and sliver are now being dyed satisfactorily in some cases by the ordinary method, in others by the use of pigment padding, the Abbot‐Cox process, or the improved pigment process using special finely ground dyes.The use of vat dyes other than indigo, thioindigo, Soledons, or Indigosols is not practicable to any great extent on wool.The introduction of the various retarding and levelling agents and research into the rate of dyeing of vat dyes has extended the use of package‐dyed yarns.
The Application of Direct Dyes to Viscose Rayon Yarn and Staple
Authors: Boulton J. 
Published: July 2010

Dyeing theory has been very largely worked out on the basis of regenerated cellulose substrate and direct dye. Improvements in the dyeing of viscose rayon have followed closely developments in fundamental understanding of the dyeing process.This paper gives the history of the dyeing process with direct dyes, a comprehensive survey of the theory, and a statement of the best modern practice with respect to yarn and fibre dyeing. The objects have been to make dyeing theory intelligible to those responsible for dyehouse work and further to relate it to recommended dyeing practices.A section is devoted to future trends in dyeing practice and to outstanding requirements for new dyes.
The Combination of Wool with Acid Dyes
Authors: Chamberlain N. H. , Listee G. H. 
Published: July 2010

An automatic photometer for measuring the rate of absorption of dyes from solutions of constant concentration is described, and its use illustrated. It is shown that photometric control of dye concentration in solutions of free dye acids and at pH below approx. 3.5 is not feasible, owing to hydrolysis of the wool sample by the dye liquor; alternative means of control by electrical conductivity are described. When the correct means of control are applied, the sensitivity and accuracy of the apparatus, and hence the reproducibility of the results obtained, are of a high order.A new type of D.C. amplifier circuit is incorporated in the photometer, which can be almost perfectly stabilised towards variations in the mains Bupply voltage, without the use of constant‐voltage transformers or other external voltage‐regulating devices.
The Influence of Particle Size on the Dyeing Properties of Vat Dyes
Authors: Flanagan T. 
Published: July 2010

An attempt has been made to assess the importance of the particle size of commercial vat dyes as a factor influencing level dyeing, when using the padding technique in dyeing viscose rayon cakes. A number of dyes have been subjected to the Hampson filtration test and classified according to particle size. A similar classification has been based on filtration of dye from the padding liquor during the actual dyeing process. A fair degree of correlation between the two methods has been established. Some factors affecting the filtration properties of the vat dyes have been investigated.The classification of dyes according to particle size has been compared with actual dyeing results. It has been found that in the case of dyes with a high rate of strike and poor levelling properties some advantage is obtained by virtue of the more, level pigmentation which results from the use of dyes of small particle size. In general, however, it is concluded that particle size is not a major factor affecting the dyeing of viscose rayon cakes with vat dyes, and that a more important part is played by the migration of the leuoo vat dye. This migration is promoted by dyeing at elevated temperatures, and with many dyes is influenced by the concentration of Dispersol VL.
The Printing Efficiency of Vat Dyes
Authors: Michie A. G. H. , Thornton R. 
Published: July 2010

A method of assessing vat‐dye prints has been established involving determination of the amount of dye applied to a cotton fabric by a roller printing technique, and the amount fixed at various stages during the afterprinting processes. By extracting the vat dye from the fabric and determining optically the amount present in a given area it is possible to calculate the percentage dye fixation under a variety of conditions.This method of assessment was used initially to study a range of seventeen vat dyes, applied by the potassium carbonate‐Formosul process under conditions of varying Formosul concentration in the print paste, varying steaming times, and varying depths of shade. Later the effect of using different alkalis at various concentrations was studied, and also the effect of the addition of glycerol and of different thickening agents.The predominant feature which emerged was the marked difference between the dyes in sensitivity to the Formosul concentration in the print paste. The dyes varied from those showing little change in percentage fixation, despite large variations in the amount of Formosul present, to those requiring a “threshold” concentration for adequate fixation, while a final group showed the threshold effect and was also susceptible to over‐reduction at still higher concentrations. It is apparent, therefore, that the instability of Formosul gives rise to the bulk of troubles experienced in printing vat dyes, since, provided the required amount of Formosul was added to the print paste and remained on the print up to the time of steaming, all vat dyes could be satisfactorily printed.Varying the thickening agent did not affect the amount of print paste applied to the fabric nor the percentage dye fixation, though marked visual differences were apparent. Caustic soda was shown to be a more efficient alkali than potassium or sodium carbonate, giving both increased percentage fixation and increased rate of fixation. The addition of glycerol had the greatest effect when the steaming times were short.A preliminary study of the pad‐steam prooess showed a general decrease in the sensitivity of the dyes to the amount of Formosul present on the prints. The basic underlying principles were the same, however, since the order of “printability” was the same for both the pad‐steam and the potassium carbonate‐Formosul process.
The Dyeing of a Blend of Wool and Fibrolane for the Hand Knitting Trade
Authors: Cheetham R. C. 
Published: July 2010

The dyeing of a hand knitting yarn consisting of a blend of wool and Fibrolane has been investigated with a view to providing a method of obtaining dyeings of adequate wet fastness and softness of handle.Preliminary work on separate fibres showed the effect of acid solutions as used in normal wool‐dyeing methods on Fibrolane, and indicated the necessity of employing modified dyeing techniques if degradation of the fibre were to be avoided. It was found that pH control, and to a lesser degree temperature control, were essential, and as far as possible dyeing should be conducted at pH 4.0, using buffered solutions for the purpose; under these conditions imbibition by Fibrolane of water from acid solutions is at a minimum.Rate‐of‐dyeing curves for Fibrolane, wool, and a blend of the two, at various pH values between 2.0 and 7.0, show that Fibrolane has a high initial rate of absorption of dye at the lower pH values in this range; in a dyebath at pH 4.0 the absorption of acid is such that the final pH approaches neutral where acid is used alone, but with buffered acid solutions the pH can be stabilised much more readily, and remains about pH 4.0.Dyeing at pH 4.0 is most effectively conducted with a buffered solution based on an acid with a pKa value around 4, e.g. lactic, formic, or acetic acid.It was found necessary to use aggregated acid dyes to obtain the requisite wet fastness, which remained satisfactory with the modified method. Suggestions are made for assisting level dyeing.
Proceedings of the Society: The Textile Trade and the Newer Fibres
Authors: Clayton F. H. 
Published: July 2010

The three main phases of growth of the textile industry are considered.The world consumption of all fibres is still increasing, but the use of man‐made fibres is increasing much more rapidly than that of the natural fibres.The properties of the synthetic fibres are summarised and some end‐uses for which they are suitable. When we know what properties are required for satisfactory service for all the various end‐uses, then by skilful fabric design we shall be able to make even better textile articles than we have been used to so far.
Affinity Effects during Padding
Authors: Marshall W. J. 
Published: July 2010

One‐day Symposium on Continuous Dyeing held by the Manchester Section at the Manchester College of Technology on 19th March 1954, Mr. G. S. J. White in the chairThe advantages and disadvantages of continuous dyeing methods are briefly discussed. A factor of great importance in these processes is the change in colour during the initial period of the run, which makes shade matching and running to shade a matter of considerable skill. This is due to the change in concentration of the pad liquor caused by the affinity of the dye and similar effects. Assuming the simplest possible relations, the magnitude of this change has been calculated, and measurements of a practical system, have shown that this mathematical treatment is adequate to characterise the system. Finally, the practical significance of this work is discussed.
Adsorption at Organic Surfaces IV—Adsorption of Sulphonated Azo Dyes by Chitin from Aqueous Solution
Authors: Giles C. H. , Hassan A. S. A. , Subramanian R. V. R. 
Published: July 2010

Lobster‐shell chitin has been used in quantitative adsorption studies with sulphonated azo dyes in aqueous solutions, mainly under acid conditions. The extent of adsorption has been correlated with the dye structures.The mechanism of adsorption appears to be largely one of physical association between the aromatic residues of the dye and the molecular chains of the chitin, hydrogen bonding in acid solutions being unimportant. When inorganic acid is present, one sulphonate group in the dye anion takes part in ion exchange with inorganic anions at the cationic centres in chitin. Additional sulphonate groups appear to remain uncombined with the substrate and to reduce the affinity of the dye.
Flameproofing of Textile Fabrics with particular reference to the Function of Antimony Compounds
Authors: Read N. J. , Heighway‐Bury E. G. 
Published: July 2010

Some modern flameproofing processes are outlined, and the requirements of an ideal process discussed together with some methods of testing flameproofness and durability. The importance of ease of ignition as distinct from rate of burning as a fire hazard is referred to.The action of antimony oxide in association with hydrogen chloride liberated at ignition temperature is examined, and an experimental demonstration of the mechanism of the flameproofing effect of antimony chloride is described. The preparation, application, and performance of oil‐in‐water emulsions of plasticised polyvinyl chloride are discussed, and evidence of possible side‐effects of the composition and antimony oxide is supplied.
Adsorption at Organic Surfaces V—A Study of the Adsorption of Dyes and Other Organic Solutes by Cellulose and Chitin
Authors: Giles C. H. , Hassan A. S. A. 
Published: July 2010

Adsorption experiments with cellulose and chitin and a variety of solutes, including non‐ionic hydroxy compounds, aromatic sulphonic acids, and azo dyes, are described. In non‐aqueous solvents the non‐ionic compounds are adsorbed by both substrates, but in water they are adsorbed only by chitin. Almost all the sulphonated compounds are adsorbed by both substrates, but benzenesulphonic acid is not adsorbed by cellulose.It is concluded that cellulose adsorbs by hydrogen bond formation with the solute in absence of water, but in presence of water by van der Waals attraction alone. Chitin can adsorb by both of these mechanisms and also by ion exchange. In chitin the active centres for both hydrogen‐bond and ion‐exchange adsorption are the acetamido and ammo groups; the hydroxy groups in both cellulose and chitin are believed to be strongly solvated in water, and unable to adsorb solutes by hydrogen bonding.The affinity for cellulose of the aromatic solutes and of vat dyes for which published data are available increases linearly with the logarithm of the length of the conjugate chain in the molecule. This appears to confirm that the affinity represents the attraction between the cellulose chain and the 77‐electron system of the solute molecules, which must be planar to have high substantivity. The effect on affinity of the amido group is discussed.
Studies on Haematoxylin and Haematein, the Colouring Principles of Logwood
Authors: LALOR G. C. , MARTIN S. L. 
Published: July 2010

A method is described for measuring the absorption spectra of both compounds in aqueous solutions under conditions which minimise the risk of oxidation. Data so obtained are presented for concentrations 10‐4 to 10‐5M. over the pH range up to 10. Despite the special precautions, oxidation effects are still observed with. both compounds above pH 9–10. Below pH 6 haematein undergoes an acid–catalysed reaction.There is no evidence of any ionisation process with haematoxylin solutions up to pH 9'6, above which reliable data could not be obtained. For haematein at 25°C. pKa(I) is 6. 86 ± 0. 05 and apparently applies to the hydroxyl in the quinonoid ring, and pKa(II) is 9. 9 ± 0. 1.Absorption and kinetic studies suggest that in the acid reaction of haematein, catalysed by hydrogen ions in a pseudo–first–order manner, a molecule of water is added to form dihydrohaemateinol, by a reversible process proceeding to about 65% completion at equilibrium under the present conditions. The reaction is thus in some respects analogous to the reverse of the previously reported dehydration of hydroxy–di– or –tri–phenylmethanols to give the corresponding p–methylenequinones.
Stenter Drying
Authors: Uthwatt T. A. , Woollatt J. S. 
Published: July 2010

Meetings of the Northern Ireland Section held in the Grosvenor Booms, Belfast, on 10th March 1959, Mr. W. J. Macnab in the chair; and of the Manchester Section held at the Textile Institute, Manchester, on 17th April 1959, Mr. H. A. Turner in the chairStenter drying by forced convection is discussed. The physical laws and the limitations which they impose are detailed. The factors which affect evaporative capacity are divided into those beyond and those within the designers' and operators' control. The methods used to develop a new design of stenter are described.
The Theory and Practice of Sodium Chlorite Bleaching
Authors: Skelly J. K. 
Published: July 2010

The decomposition of sodium chlorite during the bleaching of flax has been studied at different pH values and various temperatures. Bleaching with sodium chlorite should be accompanied by maximum formation of sodium chloride and minimum formation of sodium chlorate and chlorine dioxide. The oxidising power of the bleaching agent is discussed. Whilst there is a good margin of safety with sodium chlorite under normal bleaching conditions, extreme conditions must be avoided, in order to prevent chemical damage. The effect of sodium chlorite on the impurities present in cotton and flax is discussed. The use of hot, weakly acid oxidising solutions permits shortened bleaching processes.The main problems in practical sodium chlorite bleaching are (1) choice of a suitable method of activation of the bleaching agent, (2) selection of corrosion‐resistant materials for construction of bleaching plant, and (3) design of the equipment to be used.
The Gradient Method— A Contribution to Metameric Colour Formulation on the Basis of Colour‐difference Measurements
Authors: Gugerli U. , Buchner P. 
Published: July 2010

An instrumental method is described for the correction of approximate starting recipes derived froma prioricalculations based on reflectance spectra or taken from pattern cards. The degree of metamerism is irrelevant to the effectiveness of the method. It is designed primarily for matching dyeings in the laboratory.The corrections to the colorant concentrations in each successive step are based on the measurement of the colour differences of several dyeings in relation to the pattern. From the measured results, an improved dyeing recipe is set up with the aid of a technique of linear extrapolation based upon the calculation of the gradient of the colour difference in the concentration space. The rate of convergence of the method is more rapid than that of the conventional procedure of visual estimation and in many cases is more rapid than that of other existing instrumental techniques.
Applications of Spectrophotometric Measurement in Dyeing and Finishing
Authors: BUNKALL P. R. 
Published: July 2010

Presented at a Symposium on 'Modem Methods of Control in Dyeing and Finishing held by the Scottish Region in the Royal College of Science and Technology, Glasgow, on 3rd April 1964, Mr J. Bruce Jones in the chair, and (i n part) at a meeting of the Manchester Junior Section held at the College of Science and Technology, Manchester, on 25th February1965The important applications of spectrophotonietry dependent upon Beer's Law are discussed and a number of spectrophotometers suitable for the examination of dye solutions are mentioned. Equipment that has been used with recording spectrophotometers for the investigation of dyeing behaviour is described. Whilst reflection or transmission curves from spectrophotometric measurements may be converted to tristimulus values (A, Y, Z) in the CIE system, direct measurements of A, Y, 2 by means of suitable photoelectric colorimeters, a number of which are suggested, may be made. Reference is made to colour‐difference formulae and their applications. An equation, based on the Kubelka‐Munk theory, relating reflectance, at a given wave‐ length to dye concentration on the fibre is stated. Applications, including instrumental colour‐match prediction, are discussed, and a brief survey of instrumental matching methods is presented. Probable future developments in the application of computer
Polarographic Analysis of Sodium Dithionite
Authors: BROADBENT A. D. , PÉTER F. 
Published: July 2010

The oxidation and decomposition of sodium dithionite and the polarography of concomitant substances have been studied to find the optimum conditions for polarographic analysis of this compound. The behaviour of sodium dithionite has been examined in detail.A method of analysis is described which allows accurate determination of dithionite concentrations. It is particularly useful for routine analyses and the investigation of decomposed samples.
Durable Antistatic Finishes for Nylon Fabrics II‐Regenerated‐cellulose Coatings
Authors: GARDINER D. , HOLMES F. H. 
Published: July 2010

Effect of Temperature of Heating and of Conditions of Saponification on Antistatic Action and Durability of Cellulose Coatings*In further attempts to develop a satisfactory durable antistatic finish, films of acetone‐soluble or water‐soluble cellulose acetate were applied to nylon and Terylene fabrics and saponified. The regenerated‐cellulose coatings had a moderately effective antistatic action, which was maintained even after numerous mild washes.
Water for the Dyer
Authors: MORTON T. H. 
Published: July 2010

The present and estimated future use of water in England and Wales is compared with available resources. Use is overtaking easily available supply. The changes in procurement of water and disposal of effluent implied in recent legislation (setting up River Authorities and the Water Resources Board) are discussed, particularly as they are likely to affect the dyeing industry.The quality of water for use in the dyeworks is discussed in terms of dissolved and suspended impurities; and the methods available for the control of the effects on the dyeing process of ionic solutes, residual hardness, heavy metals, and bicarbonate are summarised. The problems of disposal of dyeworks' effluent are considered in so far as they impinge on national water‐management policy. Savings in the cost of effluent treatment may be possible in an integrated textile industry where all processes, including disposal, are considered together in planning. Instances of process modification to avoid effluent‐disposal problems are cited.
Dyeing of Blends of Wool and Man‐made Fibres
Authors: CHEETHAM R. C. 
Published: July 2010

The blending of wool with man‐made fibres is described generally. It is shown how the results of dyeing wool‐man‐made‐fibre blends are controlled by physical properties such as wet tensile modulus; it is also indicated how a wide range of coloured effects can be obtained with different man‐made fibres. The dyeing of blends containing wool is considered first from the point of view of the circulation of dye liquor through a mass of fibre and then of the relative dye absorption by the blend components.The relationship between tensile modulus and behaviour in wet processing is illustrated by laboratory work on the measurement of rate of flow through a mass of loose fibre. It is concluded that the dyeing of loose fibres in blend form could be a practical proposition and in some cases could result in over‐all economies in processing.The relative dye absorption by fibres in blends is discussed in detail and fibres are classified according to their substantivity for acid or for direct dyes. One group consists of regenerated‐protein, polyamide, and elastomeric fibres, a second group of viscose rayon fibres, and a third, larger, group of hydrophobic fibres, e.g. acetate, polyester, and acrylic fibres. The cross‐staining of wool by dyes intended for the man‐made fibre is considered, with particular reference to blends of acetate and wool; the effect of dyebath conditions, e.g. pH and temperature, is referred to and methods are outlined for minimising staining. Some three‐fibre blends are then briefly considered. Finally, possible future developments, with particular reference to blends, are discussed.