bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Subdivision on reusable garment model
Authors: Liu Hongyan , Zhong Yueqi , Wang Shanyuan 
Published: June 2012

PurposeIn order to obtain visually appealing simulation results with smooth cloth surfaces, high resolution meshes are required. Since cloth simulation with high resolution meshes is very time consuming, subdivision of a reusable model is preferred. The purpose of this paper is to adopt an approach for the subdivision of a reusable model, using different subdivision methods.Design/methodology/approachIn order to obtain visually pleasing reusable garment model, the authors subdivide the model after the conversion to reusable garment model. Two meshes are employed, of which the coarse mesh is used to convert to deformable model while the subdivided mesh, i.e. the refined mesh, is for pleasing modeling results. The modified loop subdivision and modified butterfly subdivision scheme is adopted for the optimization of determining which is more suitable for the reusable model. The authors adopt an algorithm for resolving the collisions happened after the subdivision.FindingsA 3D reusable garment model obtained from previous work was tested. The experimental results validate this method as a useful and effective approach to resolve collisions after the subdivision process.Originality/valueThe paper presents an approach for the subdivision of a reusable model, using different subdivision methods.
Study on acoustic insulating, air permeating and water vapor transfer properties of fibrous assemblies with density variation using a new apparatus
Authors: Song Wenfang , Liu Qian , Yu Weidong 
Published: June 2012

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to describe a new apparatus for testing acoustic insulating, air permeating and water vapor transfer properties of fibrous assemblies with density variation.Design/methodology/approachAn apparatus is designed and built in order to investigate the acoustic insulating, air permeating and water vapor transfer properties of fiber assemblies with density variation. The apparatus mainly consists of three chambers, just like the structure of a syringe. The three properties can be measured by placing different sensors at the corresponding chambers. The material density variation can be realized by compression.FindingsThe new apparatus can realize the measurement of the three properties with density variation, which provides a new perspective to study the physical property of fibrous assemblies.Originality/valueThe paper introduces a new apparatus for testing acoustic insulating, air permeating and water vapor transfer properties of fibrous assemblies with density variation.
Mass production of digital garments using multi‐option data structure
Authors: Kim Sungmin 
Published: June 2012

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to facilitate the digital garment production process using a multi‐option garment data structure.Design/methodology/approachNumerous garments can be generated out of a single garment datum by combining various fashion features, size grades, fabric physical properties, and surface texture maps.FindingsIt is found that various digital garments which are required, for example, by online fashion businesses can be prepared in a relatively simple way.Research limitations/implicationsThe size of each pattern on a garment can be changed by grading process and therefore a full‐texture mapping technique cannot be applied.Practical implicationsThis method can greatly reduce the time required to prepare the digital garments, for either online or offline fashion businesses.Originality/valueThe generation of various digital garments by combining multiple fashion features and physical properties is one of the most important features needed for the practical application of drape simulation in the fashion business.
Research on 3D textured dress geometry modelling
Authors: Sun Jin , Chen Xiaobo , Lu Xiaoyong , Xi Juntong 
Published: June 2012

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to describe a processing system for 3D dress geometry modelling and texture mapping.Design/methodology/approachSince the range image and its corresponding texture from one direction could be acquired by areal 3D scanner simultaneously, the texture can be integrated into the range image exactly. In the geometry modelling stage, the graph‐based algorithm is used for multi‐view registration. In order to enhance its robustness, a method for judging bad pairwise registration is proposed based on the computation of two views' overlapping percentage. In order to enrich its completeness, combined the graph analysis with the metaview method is used to deal with the measurement data for local details. In the texture mapping stage, based on grid search structure, the method of solving the Poisson equation for the colour field that best fits the colour gradients can produce a seamlessly textured surface quickly.FindingsResults show that the processing system can provide a 3D textured dress geometry model with no seams and low distortion successfully.Practical implicationsThe processing system can provide an accurate 3D dress geometry model, which can be used to modify the further design or virtual try.Originality/valueA 3D dress geometry model with no seams and low distortion provides the fashion designer with not only the visual effects, but also accurate data used for design modification.
Colorless antibacterial cotton fabrics based on silver nanoparticles and chitosan complexes
Authors: Zhang Yufei , Li Youliang , Hu Qiaoling 
Published: June 2012

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to fabricate colorless cotton fabrics with good antibacterial activity and durability.Design/methodology/approachChitosan (CS) based silver nanoparticles (AgNPs) were formed in CS solutions as the antibacterial agent. The reducing agent was sodium borohyride. The concentrations of the CS solutions ranged from 0.1 to 1 percent (w/v). Cotton fabrics were impregnated by these CS/AgNPs solutions.FindingsAll of these fabrics exhibited superior antibacterial activities. The antibacterial activity still showed great efficiency even after 81 home launderings. Moreover, the results of color change and whiteness indicated that the cotton fabrics treated by CS/AgNPs complex with higher CS concentration had less color change compared with other samples.Practical implicationsFabrics treated by this method could reduce the brown color brought by AgNPs. The paper also suggests that cotton fabrics treated by AgNPs formed in a relatively higher CS concentration not only had good antibacterial activity but also were colorless.Originality/valueThe influence of CS ratio in CS/AgNPs complexes on the antibacterial activity and color of cotton fabrics was studied, which has been rarely reported in previous papers. The fabrics prepared by this method are promising candidates for a wide range of general applications.
Prediction of tension seam pucker formation by finite‐element model
Authors: Mousazadegan Fatemeh , Saharkhiz Siamak , Latifi Masoud 
Published: June 2012

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to model tension seam pucker by finite‐element method.Design/methodology/approachA linear three dimensional finite‐element analysis in ABAQUS 6.8 is used to model pucker formation under sewing thread tension. Fabric is modeled as a continuous shell under a constant stitch length and sewing thread tensions is the applied force. Simulation's results are compared with the experimental pucker profiles, which are derived by a triangulate laser, in the term of a surface roughness index.FindingsA consistent correlation between simulation and experimental results is observed which reveals the ability of the model to predict the seam pucker formation of fabrics.Originality/valueThis study modeled tension seam pucker based on fabric's mechanical properties and exerted forces by finite‐element method. According to this study, it is possible to predict fabric deformation after tension pucker occurrence.
Fuzzy MCDM for evaluating fashion trend alternatives
Authors: Lin Chiahsu , Twu Chorng H. 
Published: June 2012

PurposeBased on the developed personal pleasure fashion design model (PPFDM), the authors have developed six fashion trend alternatives. The purpose of this paper is to use the fuzzy multiple criteria decision making (MCDM) to select the best fashion trend alternative.Design/methodology/approachTo rationalize uncertainty associated with fuzzy, the fuzzy analytic hierarchy process (fuzzy AHP) is proposed in this work to calculate the weight for the criteria. The synthetic evaluation is used to calculate the score for each criterion from the best non‐fuzzy performance (BNP) values and the weight of the criterion. The scores for each criterion are summed up to rank the importance of the alternatives.FindingsThe results show that the preferred trend of the alternatives is in the order of Romantic hippy, followed by Greek goddess, then Black knight, Urban punk, Country yappy, and Sporty academy. The multiple dimension scale (MDS) is used to visualize the preferred fashion trend alternatives; it reveals that the preference image goes from romantic to urban, to country, and finally to sporty.Originality/valueThe paper offers important criteria for the selection of fashion trend alternatives. The calculation examples provide insight into the complicated fuzzy AHP and MDS methods to clarify each step in fuzzy MCDM. This study, through using MDS, uncovers that material‐oriented consumers will purchase products or brands that are congruent with their inner femininity desire to create their personal identity and self‐image. Moreover, the developed framework has proven to be useful in improving the quality of fashion design decision.
The uplifting effect of a prototype brassiere
Authors: Cha Sujoung 
Published: June 2012

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to examine the uplifting effect of a prototype brassiere that the author developed in Shanghai, China, for Chinese adult females in their early twenties.Design/methodology/approachThe prototype brassiere was designed according to the four breast shapes of Chinese adult females. In total, 40 breast‐related measurement items were used to quantify the body sizes of 20 subjects, who were measured both with and without the brassieres.FindingsThe results of the comparison showed significant differences in breast position, the degree of sagging, the distance between the breasts, and the bottom area of the breasts between the two contexts. This study confirms the uplifting effect of the prototype brassiere, which can produce cleavage and elevate breasts.Originality/valueThe findings are based on an experimental method that quantifies the uplifting effect of the prototype brassiere using body measurement data obtained from local women in Shanghai, China. They provide empirical criteria for manufacturing brassieres to the Chinese intimate apparel industry, which lacks a standardized measurement system.
Investigation breasts' form and internal structure by wearing a brassiere from MRI images
Authors: Inui Mariko , Murase Kouhei , Tsutsumi Sadami 
Published: June 2012

PurposeThe breast is composed of two main types of soft tissues: glandular tissue and adipose tissue. Wearing a brassiere makes them deform easily. In order to design comfortable brassieres by which the body shape is adjusted, it is important to clarify the relationship between the breast deformation and the internal structure of the breast. The purpose of this paper is to assess a method to determine the structure inside the breast. Breast shape comparison was performed to assess the relationship between the external deformation caused by wearing a brassiere and the internal structure of the breast.Design/methodology/approachThe subjects were five adult females. The breast MRI imaging in the sitting position was carried out using the vertical MRI systems under bare breasts condition and under wearing a brassiere condition. By creating 3D images from the MRI images obtained, the internal structure of the breast was determined. The 3D images under the wearing brassiere conditions were superimposed on the images under the bare breasts condition, and the breast shape comparison was performed to assess the relationship between the external deformation caused by wearing a brassiere and the internal structure of the breast.FindingsThe internal 3D structure of the breast, which had been unmeasurable in the sitting position, could be obtained using the vertical MRI system. Additionally the effect of wearing a brassiere on the breast was assessed in terms of the relation between the external deformation and the internal structure of the breast.Originality/valueThis paper's results can be utilized for human body model in simulation, and to provide fruitful data for the design of comfortable brassieres.
A review on designing viral barrier fabrics with monolithic films
Authors: Singh Mukesh Kumar , Singh Annika 
Published: June 2012

PurposeProtection of medical personnel against pathogenic viruses is a challenging task for the world scientific community. The purpose of this paper is to collect, analyze, critique, rearrange and present the scattered information scientifically to form a base for product development for viral protection.Design/methodology/approachA huge range of recently available information has been collected, studied and arranged judiciously.FindingsAfter an exhaustive study of this topic, it is possible to present all information in a manner that will be helpful to start product development activity on both sides of the Atlantic. Initially, various coated textiles with zero breathability were used to cover doctors, nurses and staff but thereafter microporous coatings replaced the poreless surface coatings. However, the pore size distribution in microporous films and coatings could not be controlled precisely and manufacturers could not claim the surface offered foolproof protection against viruses. Monolithic films are able to claim guaranteed protection against virus penetration, with sufficient breathability. Monolithic film technology has prime importance in protective clothing that has to be discussed judiciously. Permeability of block copolymers based monolithic films is an important feature for barrier materials, high performance impermeable breathable clothing and membrane separation processes.Originality/valueThis is a first paper in the field of viral barrier fabrics which will remain helpful to the scientific community to start further research work and product development.
Negative effects of US taxation
Authors: Portillo Javier , Block Walter E. 
Published: June 2012

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to criticize the current US tax system and explain in what ways taxation harms the economy. Taxes are coercive. Taxpayers are forced to pay individual income taxes. If the taxpayer refuses, several adverse consequences will unfold against him even including jail‐time. Taxes diminish taxpayer's disposable income and leave consumer's wants unattended. The money they could have used to fulfil their wants goes instead to the government in the form of taxes.Design/methodology/approachTaxation is analyzed from an economic point of view.FindingsProgressive taxation is harmful to the economy because it punishes successful individuals. The more they earn (a reflection of the productive value they bring to the market), the more they have to pay. Meanwhile less productive citizens paying little or no tax are receiving “benefits” derived from the investment of more successful taxpayers. These are inefficient since they reduce incentives. Taking money from Peter and giving it to Paul decreases the incentive, both have to earn an income and be productive. Finally, the paper exposes the influence government has over taxpayer's decisions.Originality/valueWe live at a time in the US when President Obama is calling for greater taxation for the rich, and the Republicans are rejecting this initiative on the ground that it is “class war.” A study of taxation at this point cannot help but shed light on this controversy.
A two‐pass model study of the CAPM: evidence from the UK stock market
Authors: Hwang Tienyu , Gao Simon , Owen Heather 
Published: June 2012

PurposeThere has been considerable debate on the linear relationship between systematic risk and return. The purpose of this study is to investigate whether security return can be explained by systematic risk.Design/methodology/approachThis study employs the market model to test the effect of excess return on portfolio returns. The paper divides total risk into systematic and idiosyncratic risk to examine whether the degree of inefficient portfolio diversification impairs the applicability of the capital asset pricing model (CAPM). In the two‐pass cross‐sectional regressions, the paper assesses whether excess return on a security is directly proportional to the security's beta. The paper also incorporates the total variance of securities and the squared value of beta to capture idiosyncratic risk and the nonlinear risk‐return relationship.FindingsThe CAPM is rejected due to positive intercepts in most portfolios and there are large proportions of idiosyncratic risk in these portfolios. Two‐pass regressions show that the security market line theory is valid when additional variables are included in the equation. However, survivorship bias appears to be present in the selected sample.Practical implicationsSince large excess returns are present in the models, the traditional CAPM is rejected and incomplete portfolio diversification can be explained by high levels of idiosyncratic risk.Originality/valueThe authors find that inefficient portfolio diversification is due to the level of idiosyncratic risk in a portfolio. Evidence of the nonlinear beta‐return relationship suggests that the traditional CAPM is misspecified.
The nominal rand/dollar exchange rate: before and after 1995
Authors: Gossel Sean J. , Biekpe Nicholas 
Published: June 2012

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to undertake an econometric investigation of the determinants of the nominal South African rand/US dollar exchange rate before and after the country's financial liberalisation in March 1995.Design/methodology/approachRegression models are used to examine the changing relationships between the nominal rand/dollar exchange rate and the determinants of capital flows, fundamentals, and country‐specific factors over the long‐run of 1988 to 2007, as well as over the sub‐sample periods of 1988 to 1995, and 1995 to 2007.FindingsThe results show that the factors that are associated with the rand/dollar exchange rate are different before and after the country's financial liberalisation. Prior to 1995, bond and equity purchases by non‐residents, the long‐term interest rate differential, political risk, and the Dollar price of gold were highly significant. However, post‐1995, only the net purchases of shares on the Johannesburg stock exchange (JSE) by non‐residents and the long‐term interest rate differential are significant.Originality/valueThe results suggest that the Rand has changed from being a “commodity currency” in the years before 1995 to being an “equity currency” after 1995.
Impact of future trading on stock market: a study of BRIC countries
Authors: Gahlot Ruchika , Datta Saroj Kumar 
Published: June 2012

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to examine the impact of the future of trading on volatility as well as the efficiency of the stock market of BRIC (Brazil, Russia, India and China) countries. This study also investigates the presence of day‐of‐the‐week effect in BRIC countries' stock market.Design/methodology/approachThis study uses closing prices of IBrx‐50 for Brazil, RTSI for Russia, Nifty for India and CSI300 for China to represent the stock market of BRIC countries. The Run and ACF tests are used to see impact on market efficiency. GARCH M model is used to see the impact on volatility and day‐of‐the week effect.FindingsThe insignificant coefficient of variance in the conditional mean equation of GARCH M implies that the market doesn't provide higher returns during the high volatility period. The results of the Run test showed that the Russian stock market became efficient after introduction of future trading. However, ACF showed no effect of introduction of future trading on autoregressiveness of stock returns. The result of GARCH M indicates that future trading led to reduction in the volatility of the Indian stock market. There are some evidences of presence of day‐of‐the‐week effect in the Indian stock market.Practical implicationsThis paper will help regulators to form appropriate policies as the market would have to pay a certain price, such as loss of market efficiency, for the sake of market stabilization. This will also help investors to make investment decisions, especially investing in these indices as the existence of the significant day‐of‐the‐week effect and the inefficiency in the stock market would be very useful for developing investment strategies.Originality/valueThis paper will be useful for both investors and regulators in decision making.
How responsive are Indonesia's bilateral inpayments and outpayments to real depreciation of Rupiah?
Authors: Bahmani‐Oskooee Mohsen , Harvey Hanafiah 
Published: June 2012

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to investigate the sensitivity of Indonesia's inpayments and outpayments to currency depreciation on a bilateral basis.Design/methodology/approachThe methodology used is based on the bounds testing approach.FindingsIt is found that while real depreciation of Rupiah has short‐run effects in a majority of the cases, these effects last into the long‐term in almost 50 percent of the cases. Surprisingly, almost all of the affected partners in the long run are found to be the Asian countries.Originality/valueThe paper is very original in that no one has looked at this issue before.
The public image of the contemporary Russian police
Authors: Zernova Margarita 
Published: June 2012

PurposeThe paper aims to discuss the perception of the police by members of the public in post‐Soviet Russia following their personal experiences of policing, identify broader social implications of the contemporary public image of the Russian police and assess the potential for changing the current situation.Design/methodology/approachThe discussion is conducted on the basis of findings derived from an empirical study carried out by the author which involved qualitative interviews with members of the public who had personal experiences of policing, and with police officers.FindingsFindings indicate a very negative perception of the police by members of the public. Personal experiences of police misconduct appear to affect negatively citizens' general evaluations of the entire institution.Research limitations/implicationsThe study was small, and only those who have had personal encounters with the police were interviewed, so the findings should not be treated as necessarily representing attitudes of the population in general.Practical implicationsThe negative public image of the police revealed by this study has numerous dangerous consequences: people feel insecure and unprotected, lose trust towards legal authorities and refuse to cooperate with the police.Social implicationsDistrust towards the police generates a situation where citizens have to be self‐reliant in protecting themselves against crime. Many of the strategies adopted towards this end are problematic.Originality/valueThe paper presents a unique insight into public perceptions of the Russian police. It may suggest implications for policy and practice that could help enhance support of citizens for the police, or at least prevent further deterioration of the existing situation.