bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
The mechanics of fixatives as explained by polymer composite principles
Authors: Rafferty D. W. , Zellia J. , Hasman D. , Mullay J. 
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 251–259 (March/April 2009)SynopsisPolymer composite principles are shown to explain the mechanism and performance of fixative‐treated hair tresses. This concept is illustrated using cassia and experimental cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride derivatives at two charge densities. Correlations are drawn between polymer film and fixative performance properties, and the primary mechanisms behind the performance of each polymer are suggested. The cationic charge density affects the adhesion and cohesion of these polymers, and the contributions of these two properties to performance are shown. It is also shown that the relationship between cationic charge density and fixative stiffness of these polymers is dependent on the relative humidity (RH) of the test. The lower charge density polymer yields higher tress stiffness than the higher charge density polymer at 50% RH, but this trend is reversed at 90% RH. A hypothesis is offered in explanation of this phenomenon, relating adhesion and cohesion to the performance of fixative‐hair composites. At high humidity, moisture can plasticize the polymers, reducing the cohesive strength, so electrostatic attraction and thus adhesion becomes the dominant force. Evidence to support this hypothesis is given.
Brazilian oils and butters: The effect of different fatty acid chain composition on human hair physiochemical properties
Authors: Fregonesi A. , Scanavez C. , Santos L. , De Oliveira A. , Roesler R. , Escudeiro C. , Moncayo P. , De Sanctis D. , Gesztesi J. L. 
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 273–280 (March/April 2009)SynopsisThis study evaluated the performance of five oils and three butters extracted from Brazilian plants with different fatty chain composition on hair mechanical properties, split end formation, combing analysis and gloss measurements. Oil treatment reduced the combing force percentage for wet conditions. However, the hair treated with butters showed poor combing. Except for ucuúba butter, oils and butters used in this work had generally no influence on hair tensile properties. In general, hair treated with oils showed a significant gloss increase and a decrease for split end formation. The fatty acid composition of the oils and butters tested showed an effect on the physicochemical properties of hair.
The shine problem in hair: Review of imaging methods and measures for luster
Authors: Kaplan P. D. , Park K. , Qi J. , Yang K. 
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 111–123 (March/April 2009)SynopsisThere is a need for both a better understanding of the technical drivers of shiny appearance in hair and for standard methods and measures of shine. To this end, we develop standard treatment methods for changing hair shine and examine a number of image‐based measurements of luster. Using psychophysical techniques to get a perceptual reference, we find that available technical measures are difficult to use when trying to quantify the small changes in shine associated with treatment.
Approaches to polymer selection for mascara formulation
Authors: Loginova Y. , Shah V. , Allen G. , Macchio R. , Farer A. 
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 125–133 (March/April 2009)SynopsisThe use of hair‐care and hair‐styling polymers in mascara formulation is well known. This paper introduces pre‐formulative evaluation of film formers which are intended to be applied on eyelashes for mascara development to screen film formers more effectively. The film‐forming characteristics of randomly selected hairstyling polymers were evaluated under the influence of pH, temperature, surfactant, and pigment dispersion. The selected polymers included acrylics, polyurethanes, and a pyrrolidone, all of which are used throughout the hair‐care and mascara industries. An Erichsen Model 299/300 Pendulum Damping Tester was used to determine film hardness. In analyzing samples by the effect of temperature, the hardest neat polymer, a styrene‐acrylate, softened 30% after heating. For most of the other polymers, the hardness was slightly lower compared to the neat polymer. The addition of pigment did not significantly influence the hardness of one acrylic copolymer and a urethane dispersion, but most of the other polymers exhibited a reduction in film hardness. Various hardnesses were observed with different surfactants and different pH's.
The Aqualon SLT: A novel device for measuring hair stiffness and lubricity
Authors: Vaynberg K. A. , Nall M. 
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 135–141 (March/April 2009)SynopsisThe ability to quantify hair property changes in response to treatment is essential to the successful development of new formulations and benefiting agents. In the attempt to expand the toolbox of hair tress testing tools, we developed a device that allows hair scientists to measure hair tress changes in stiffness and lubricity. The tool is based on a system of pins mounted on free rotating bearings and is operated in two modes: rotating and stationary. The hair attributes are measured by threading a hair tress through the pin assembly and measuring the total work of pulling through in rotational and stationary modes (the latter mode is obtained by immobilizing pins by a retaining plate). The data thus obtained is de‐convoluted into the work of apparent stiffness (rotational mode) and the work of the friction‐on‐pins or lubricity (stationary mode minus the apparent stiffness). The data can be further reduced to produce an apparent friction coefficient defined as a ratio of the apparent lubricity to the apparent stiffness. This work demonstrates the utility of the parameters measured by the Aqualon SLT and illustrates how the device can be used to predict and understand the impacts of various hair treatments.
New luster formula for the characterization of hair tresses using polarization imaging
Authors: Lefaudeux N. , Lechocinski N. , Clemenceau P. , Breugnot S. 
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 153–169 (March/April 2009)SynopsisHair luster is one of the most important parameters of visual appearance perceived by consumers. Current luster formulae (TRI, Reich‐Robbins, ...) are optimized for goniophotometric measurements. They are based on a mathematical decomposition of reflected light into specular and diffused light and the measurement of the shine peak width on the fitted angular distributions. In this expose, we are describing a polarization imaging system measuring luster of hair tresses with an innovative algorithm. Using polarization imaging allows to physically separating the specular light from the diffused light for each pixel of the imaged tress. Angular distributions of the specular and diffused light are obtained in a few seconds. Where conventional methods calculate the shine peak width on the angular distribution, the imaging system imitates the human eye and calculates the shine width directly on the image. The new formula combines different measured parameters to objectively quantify luster. It was designed to exhibit a higher correlation with visual perception along with a higher sensitivity. Results obtained with conventional formulae are compared on different hair tresses, treated and untreated. The new formula is found to be consistent for a whole range of hair colors, from light to dark.
Measurements of hair volume by laser stereometry
Authors: McMullen R. , ZISA F. , Jachowicz J. 
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 171–185 (March/April 2009)SynopsisA three‐dimensional laser stereometer was constructed utilizing an x–y two‐dimensional translational stage and a laser device, which provides distance information in the z‐direction. The distance data is obtained by triangulation of the reflecting red laser beam from the surface of the measured object, in this case hair. Since hair fiber assemblies do not have a continuous solid surface, each z‐dimension reading is obtained as an average of measurements obtained from multiple reflections corresponding to fibers at various depths below the outermost hair surface. We demonstrate the utility of this technique to perform the analysis of either an entire hair tress or relatively short sections of tresses prepared from straight, curly, and frizzy hair and subjected to cosmetic treatments such as washing, conditioning, dyeing, etc. An interpretation is provided for the three‐dimensional images of hair assemblies as well as for the calculated volume of space occupied by a hair tress. In addition, we investigated various strategies for testing the volume retention of styling polymers.
Study of hair shine and hair surface smoothness
Authors: Gao T. , Pereira A. , Zhu S. 
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 187–197 (March/April 2009)SynopsisA new hair visual appearance measurement system called SAMBA from Bossa Nova Technologies (Venice, CA, USA) has been employed to measure effects of cosmetic treatments on hair shine and surface smoothness of different types of hair samples. Experimental procedures for evaluations of shine value and surface cuticle angle of hair samples treated with rinse‐off products (shampoo or/and conditioner) have been successfully established and applied. We demonstrated that hair spray and conditioner formulas containing PPG‐3 benzyl ether myristate (PBEM) (1) showed great performance on shine enhancement for hairs with light and medium colors. Instrumental measurement of shine values was also conducted to compare different commercial shampoo and conditioner products. This study showed reliable utility of SAMBA system and demonstrated the shine enhancement of PBEM in hair care.
Multiparticulate carriers for sun‐screening agents
Authors: Jain S. K. , Jain N. K. 
Published: March 2010

SynopsisMany molecular sunscreens penetrate into the skin causing photo‐allergic and photo‐toxic reactions as well as skin irritations establishing an urgent need for the development of a safer sunscreen formulation. The search for active substances, efficient combinations, and the design of novel vehicles or carriers has led to the implementation of new cosmetic systems in contrast to the classic forms such as creams or gels. Amongst various approaches utilized to improve performance of sunscreening agents, the use of multiparticulate delivery systems is gaining increasing attention amongst researchers. Multiparticulate delivery systems can be incorporated into gels, creams, liquids, powders or other formulations, and can release active agents depending on their temperature, moisture, friction, volatility of the entrapped ingredients or time. These systems also have the ability of scattering or reflecting incoming UV radiations and therefore can act as physical sunscreens on their own.
In vivo skin analysis (INSA) for quantitative determination of lotion transfer to human skin
Authors: Ebrahimpour A. , Ullman A. H. 
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 315–321 (May/June 2009)Accepted for publication January 9, 2009.SynopsisThere is a need during the development of cosmetic and skin products for simple, quantitative, noninvasive measurements of product deposition onto skin. In this article we describe INSA (in vivo skin analysis) as such a method for measuring the amount of lotion transferred to the skin from tissue products. Using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy with an attenuated total reflectance (ATR FT‐IR) sampling accessory, we were able to quantify lotion levels on the arms of subjects in minutes.
Novel mechanism for hair shine with special optical enhancement effect on blonde hair
Authors: Iwai S. , Sato H. , Shibuichi S. , Satoh N. 
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 323–336 (May/June 2009)Accepted for publication October 21, 2008.SynopsisCompared with dark or brunette hair, blonde hair has different characteristic features of appearance such as bright shine with a soft tonal color. In this report, novel optical mechanisms of the characteristic blonde hair appearance are reported. Optical analyses of goniophotometric measurements were carried out to elucidate the mechanisms of strong reflections observed in blonde hairs. As a result, reflections with much higher intensity than those from the front surface of a fiber were confirmed to play important roles in the case of blonde hair fibers, and the intensities were found to vary with the cross‐sectional shape of a fiber, the ellipticity (=minor axis/major axis). From light path simulation analyses, these strong reflections were verified to result from total reflection from the back surface of a fiber. Furthermore, since each hair fiber acts as a lens and/or a reflector, intricate reflection behaviors are suggested to occur as a consequence of the combination of light condensation and total reflection.
Copper and calcium uptake in colored hair
Authors: Smart K. E. , Kilburn M. , Schroeder M. , Martin B. G. H. , Hawes C. , Marsh J. M. , Grovenor C. R. M. 
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 337–345 (May/June 2009)Accepted for publication December 29, 2008.SynopsisDuring hair coloring a number of disulfide bonds in cystine are oxidized (1) to create cysteic acid, forming binding sites for metal ions such as Ca2+ and Cu2+ from tap water (2). The increased uptake of these metals can have a detrimental impact on fiber properties—for example, reducing shine and causing a poor wet and dry feel (3). In addition, the increased uptake of copper can also contribute to further fiber damage during subsequent coloring due to its ability to take part in metal‐induced radical chemistry (4). It is important to know where in the fibers these metals are located in order to either effectively remove these metals or control their chemistry. Nanoscale secondary ion mass spectrometry (NanoSIMS) has been used to locate the calcium and copper within hair that has been treated with a colorant and washed multiple times in tap water containing these ions. Untreated hair is used as a baseline standard material. Images with up to 50‐nm spatial resolution of the preferential locations of calcium uptake were obtained, showing a high concentration of calcium in the cuticle region of colored hair, specifically in the sulfur‐rich regions (A‐layer and exocuticle).
Tyrosinase inhibitors isolated from the roots of Paeonia suffruticosa
Authors: Ding H. ‐Y. , Lin H. ‐C. , Chang T. ‐S. 
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 347–352 (May/June 2009)Accepted for publication November 6, 2008.SynopsisThe inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase by Paeonia suffruticosa root‐derived materials was evaluated. Six tyrosinase inhibitors were isolated by ethanol extraction, n‐hexane, ethyl acetate, n‐BuOH, and water partition, silica gel column chromatography, Sephadex LH‐20, Lobar PR‐8, and high‐performance liquid chromatography methods, and they were identified as kaempferol (I), quercetin (II), mudanpioside B (III), benzoyloxypaeoniflorin (IV), mudanpioside H (V), and pentagalloyl‐β‐D‐glucose (VI) on the basis of spectroscopic evidence. The inhibitory activities of compounds I to VI against mushroom tyrosinase were determined with IC50 values of 0.120, 0.108, 0.368, 0.453, 0.324, and 0.063 mM, respectively. The kinetic study indicated that all purified inhibitors acted competitively for the L‐dopa binding site of the enzyme, with an exception of compound VI, which acted non‐competitively.
Immune system‐driven human ageing:Inflammageing
Authors: Goto M. 
Published: March 2010

Ageing, especially human ageing can be explained by the emerging concept of para‐inflammation‐driven inflammageing, which is a coinage combining inflammation and ageing. Inflam‐mageing explains that ageing, either physiological or pathological, can be driven by a low level of a variety of pro‐inflammatory cytokines and substances produced by the innate immune system. Animals must maintain homeostasis during ageing with time against incessant attack from both intrinsic and extrinsic stimuli/antigens. These potentially harmful pro‐inflammatory signals at a variety of the later stage of life may act antagonistically to their beneficial role as developmental engines for body system formation at an earlier stage of life. The idea of inflammageing is based on an antagonistic pleiotropy theory programmed during evolution. Clinical trials including caloric restriction, sirtuin activators and p38 MAPK inhibitors against premature ageing models such as metabolic syndrome, rheumatoid arthritis and Werner syndrome have been proposed.Keywords:  ageing, inflammageing, inflammation, cytokine, evolution, antagonistic pleiotropy, development, innate immunity, metabolic syndrome, rheumatoid arthritis, Werner syndrome
Application of image processing technique for facial gloss evaluation
Authors: Fujii M. , Misaki Y. , Sasaki I. 
Published: March 2010

A total absence of gloss can make the skin appear dry, while excessive gloss can contribute to an unattractive, ‘oily‐look’. Traditionally, skin gloss has been measured by the intensity of surface reflection. The disadvantage of this method is that the gloss is determined by the amount of the surface reflection in small, localized facial areas only, and does not permit evaluation of the overall optical impression of the entire face. In our work, we recognized differences in the optical contribution of facial features such as the nose and cheekbones, and surface characteristics such as pores and wrinkles. Highlights from facial features are usually regarded as normal whereas the highlight from skin texture can accentuate the presence of large pores and wrinkles, contributing to a negative impression. For an accurate evaluation of facial gloss impression, these contributions were taken into consideration in designing our system. In this study, we propose a new method of evaluating facial gloss using an image processing technique. By this method, the surface reflection image is computed from the digital color image, and separated into the facial feature and texture images for quantitative evaluation. The purpose of this work is to explore the possibility of using 2‐dimensional parameters of gross appearance in our system for more accurate and objective evaluation of gloss impression.Keywords:  wavelet, facial gloss, simulation, oily‐look, radiant, surface reflection, facial feature image, texture image, highlights
Effect of disulfide bonds in human hair fibers on the melting behavior of their crystalline structure
Authors: Osaki A. , Okada M. , Yamamoto K. , Joko K. 
Published: March 2010

In order to reveal the role of disulfide (S‐S) bonds in the fine structure of human hair fibers, especially in the complex between intermediate filaments (IFs) and intermediate filament‐associated proteins (IFAP), we investigated the relationship between melting behavior of (‐crystallites on thermal analysis and structural orientation of the fibers when S‐S bonds were oxidized using 1.5 wt% peracetic acid (PAA) solution. It was revealed that oxidative treatment of human hair fibers immersed in PAA solution made cystine residues dissociate to cysteic acids and that the (‐crystalline structure of the oxidized hair fibers was maintained despite the fission of S‐S bonds. Their thermographs in water on high pressure differential scanning calorimetry (HPD‐SC) showed that the endothermic peak assigned as the melting of (‐crystallites became separated into two endothermic peaks with progression of the treatment time, and the one started melting at a lower temperature while the other had a higher melting temperature than the melting temperature of untreated hair. Furthermore, the sum of the two endothermic peak areas decreased. Polarized light microscopic observation indicated that the orientation of IFAP still existed at the temperature at which the orientation of IFs disappeared. Therefore, these results suggested that some S‐S linkages at the interface between IFs and IFAP dissociated with the PAA treatment and that there was not only some region of IFs stabilized by S‐S bonds but also another region of IFs stabilized by hydrophobic interaction for their thermostability.Keywords:  human hair fiber, peracetic acid, disulfide bonds, intermediate filament, (‐crystallites, thermostability, high pressure differential scanning calorimetry, polarized light microscopy, X‐ray diffraction, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy
Heterochromatin, small RNA and post‐fertilization dysgenesis in allopolyploid and interploid hybrids of Arabidopsis
Authors: Martienssen Robert A. 
Published: March 2010

SummaryIn many plants, including Arabidopsis, hybrids between species and subspecies encounter postfertilization barriers in which hybrid seed fail to develop, or else give rise to infertile progeny. In Arabidopsis, some of these barriers are sensitive to ploidy and to the epigenetic status of donor and recipient genomes. Recently, a role has been proposed for heterochromatin in reprogramming events that occur in reproductive cells, as well as in the embryo and endosperm after fertilization. 21 nt small interfering RNA (siRNA) from activated transposable elements accumulate in pollen, and are translocated from companion vegetative cells into the sperm, while in the maturing seed 24 nt siRNA are primarily maternal in origin. Thus maternal and paternal genomes likely contribute differing small RNA to the zygote and to the endosperm. As heterochromatic sequences also differ radically between, and within, species, small RNA sequences will diverge in hybrids. If transposable elements in the seed are not targeted by small RNA from the pollen, or vice versa, this could lead to hybrid seed failure, in a mechanism reminiscent of hybrid dysgenesis in Drosophila. Heterochromatin also plays a role in apomixis and nucleolar dominance, and may utilize a similar mechanism.
Spinal and peripheral analgesic effects of the CB2 cannabinoid receptor agonist AM1241 in two models of bone cancer‐induced pain
Authors: Curto‐Reyes V , Llames S , Hidalgo A , Menéndez L , Baamonde A 
Published: March 2010

Background and purpose:  The activation of CB2 receptors induces analgesia in experimental models of chronic pain. The present experiments were designed to study whether the activation of peripheral or spinal CB2 receptors relieves thermal hyperalgesia and mechanical allodynia in two models of bone cancer pain.Experimental approach:  NCTC 2472 osteosarcoma or B16‐F10 melanoma cells were intratibially inoculated to C3H/He and C57BL/6 mice. Thermal hyperalgesia was assessed by the unilateral hot plate test and mechanical allodynia by the von Frey test. AM1241 (CB2 receptor agonist), AM251 (CB1 receptor antagonist), SR144528 (CB2 receptor antagonist) and naloxone were used. CB2 receptor expression was measured by Western blot.Key results:  AM1241 (0.3–10 mg·kg−1) abolished thermal hyperalgesia and mechanical allodynia in both tumour models. The antihyperalgesic effect was antagonized by subcutaneous, intrathecal or peri‐tumour administration of SR144528. In contrast, the antiallodynic effect was inhibited by systemic or intrathecal, but not peri‐tumour, injection of SR144528. The effects of AM1241 were unchanged by AM251 but were prevented by naloxone. No change in CB2 receptor expression was found in spinal cord or dorsal root ganglia.Conclusions and implications:  Spinal CB2 receptors are involved in the antiallodynic effect induced by AM1241 in two neoplastic models while peripheral and spinal receptors participate in the antihyperalgesic effects. Both effects were mediated by endogenous opiates. The use of drugs that activate CB2 receptors could be a useful strategy to counteract bone cancer‐induced pain symptoms.