bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Style previewing in 3D using name‐based sewing rules
Authors: Hwan Sul In 
Published: June 2010

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to combine patterns from different garment sets and preview garment styles in 3D apparel design by giving sewing names to patterns and sewing edges.Design/methodology/approachA new rule for 3D garment sewing is made. Unlike conventional vertex number‐based method, patterns and their edges are given specific names. If two edges have a same edge name, they make a sewing line. Thus, patterns from different garments can be combined and draped with this method. Numbers of boundary mesh nodes were controlled using B‐Spline to combine sewing edges of different lengths.FindingsIt is found that by only assigning names to patterns and sewing edges, garment style can be previewed by substituting patterns.Originality/valueStyles and details of garments can be previewed in 3D by mixing patterns of different garment sets like in 2D technical flat sketching. Even patterns with different edge lengths can be combined by controlling the pattern meshes using B‐Spline.
Study of heat transfer through layers of textiles using finite element method
Authors: Sun Yuchai , Chen Xiaogang , Cheng Zhonghao , Feng Xunwei 
Published: June 2010

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to present the results of a study on heat transfer through a textile assembly consisting of fabric and air layers based on a theoretical model capable of dealing with conductive, convective and radioactive heat transfer.Design/methodology/approachQuantificational results were given out by the aid of finite element (FE) analysis software MSC MARC Mentat.FindingsSignificant findings through this paper include the change in heat flux against time and the transit temperature distribution at the cross‐section of the fabric assembly. The size of the air gaps has a significant influence on the heat transfer. The balance heat flux drops by 40 per cent when the air gap increases from 2 to 10 mm. The influence of the air gap tends to become smaller as the air gap is further increased. The number of fabric layers in the textile assembly has a noted influence, more so when the ambient temperature is lower. Comparisons between the theoretical and tested results show a good agreement.Originality/valueThis paper has established a new method for clothing comfort study by making use of a general purpose FE method software package.
Comparative analysis of hand properties and compositions of trace elements in linen fabrics produced in different regions
Authors: Inoue Takako , Ishihara Kengo , Yasumoto Kyoden , Niwa Masako 
Published: June 2010

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to examine ladies' linen fabrics produced in different regions – Japan, Italy, and Poland – to ascertain differences in mechanical, thermal, and air permeability properties.Design/methodology/approachThe paper investigates mechanical properties, air permeability, and thermal conductivity. The silhouettes of Polish, Italian, and Japanese linen fabrics are different. The thermal conductivities of the Polish linen fabrics are high. The levels of 72 elements were analyzed and remarkable differences were observed in the levels of 16 elements, including Li, Al, Si, Ti, Cr, Ni, Rb, and Y, Ag, among Polish, Italian linen fabrics, and linen fabrics made in Japan. Another ten elements were detected at some level in either the samples of Polish linen fabrics or linen fabrics made in Japan.FindingsThere are differences among the Polish, Italian, and linen fabrics made in Japan, but the differences are not remarkable.Research limitations/implicationsThis paper is a wide world regional study of linen characterisation.Practical implicationsAnother ten elements are detected at some level in either the samples of Polish linen fabrics or linen fabrics made in Japan. There are differences among the Polish, Italian, and linen fabrics made in Japan, but the differences are not remarkable.Originality/valueThe paper presents useful Measurement instrumentation, analysis and characterisation of linen fabrics from different regions of the world.
Analysis of tactile perceptions of textile materials using artificial intelligence techniques
Authors: Karthikeyan B. , Sztandera Les M. 
Published: June 2010

PurposeThe first of a two‐part series, this paper aims to discuss the design and development of an artificial intelligence‐based hybrid model to understand human perception of the tactile properties of textile materials and create an objective system to express those tactile perceptions in terms of measurable mechanical properties.Design/methodology/approachA forward engineering system using the Model Free Algorithm approach of the Artificial Intelligence Technique to predict the tactile comfort score is presented.FindingsHuman perception of tactile sensation is based on the weighted stimulus perceived by the human neural system.Originality/valueContribution to intelligent textile and garment manufacture.
Analysis of tactile perceptions of textile materials using artificial intelligence techniques
Authors: Karthikeyan B. , Sztandera Les M. 
Published: June 2010

PurposeThe second of a two‐part series, this paper aims to explain the design and development of a hybrid system for reverse engineering.Design/methodology/approachA prediction engine to map the perception of tactile sensations using a neural network engine was developed. Since seventeen mechanical properties form the input ‐ and tactile compfort score is used as the output ‐ a direct reversal of the data set becomes impossible, hence, a hybrid approach was employed. The neural net is coupled with a genetic algorithm engine for the reversal process. The trained neural network acts as the objective function to evaluate the property set while the solution set is generated by Genetic Algorithm (GA) engine. Limitation of the GA and a means to overcome it is discussed. Application software based on the current research is also presented.FindingsHuman perception of tactile sensations is non‐linear in terms of the mechanical properties of textile materials.Originality/valueThe paper deals with reverse engineering and discusses application software based on the current research.
The application of codesign in new bra product innovations
Authors: Liao Chi‐Shun , Lee Cheng‐Wen 
Published: June 2010

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to discuss how brassiere manufacturers develop new designs for bra products, suitable for individual consumers, through consumer codesign.Design/methodology/approachNew product design that relies on conjoint analysis algorithms can depict multidimensional attribute profiles, such that consumers' choice behavior reflects their preferences and overall judgment of the profiles. This statistical technique provides a means to codesign and customize bra products and thereby enhance the overall bra design process.FindingsBra products codesign suggests goals such as attractive appearance, shoulder strap style, vivid/mild color, elegance/sexy lace, comfort/practicality, fabric, lining, comfort/attractive appearance, neckline design, comfort/excellent function cut, sewn cups, and generous quantities. The most preferred combination of attributes for all respondents is a cotton/cotton blend fabric, seamless bra that offers a detachable shoulder strap, lavender color, a two‐strap style, lace details, and a low‐cut plunge neckline. The paper illustrates consumers' bra awareness attributes, codesign approach, and individual optimum individualized bra designs.Practical implicationsThe results provide a useful source of information for product managers, who should consider the use of codesign to design the best products for individual consumers and decrease the risk of design failure, as well as promote consumer loyalty and satisfaction toward the product.Originality/valueThe paper provides a unique method to understand the new product codesign structure and make bra product design decisions that integrate optimum individualized design.
Relationship between growth and R&D intensity in low‐tech and high‐tech Portuguese service SMEs
Authors: Maçãs Nunes Paulo , Serrasqueiro Zélia , Mendes Luis , Neves Sequeira Tiago 
Published: June 2010

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to determine if the relationship between growth and research and development (R&D) intensity is of a different nature in the context of low‐ and high‐tech Portuguese service small to medium‐sized enterprises (SMEs).Design/methodology/approachThe System Analysis of Iberian Balance Sheets database is used. Based on the European Union's recommendation, L124/36 (2003/261/CE), the authors select 764 low‐tech and 139 high‐tech Portuguese service SMEs for the period 1999‐2006. As method of analysis, panel data are used.FindingsA negative relationship between growth and R&D intensity for low‐tech Portuguese service SMEs is identified, whatever the level of R&D intensity. For high‐tech Portuguese service SMEs, a quadratic U‐shaped relationship between growth and R&D intensity is identified. Moreover, the authors find that relationships between growth and determinants are of a special nature in the context of high‐tech Portuguese service SMEs with high levels of R&D intensity.Practical implicationsIt is recommended that as far as possible the managers/owners of low‐tech Portuguese service SMEs, and especially high‐tech ones with non‐high levels of R&D intensity, hire qualified human resources and make more continuous investment in R&D. The authors advise managers/owners of high‐tech Portuguese service SMEs with high levels of R&D intensity to establish stable relationships with creditors. Policy‐makers should increase financial support directed, above all, to innovative Portuguese service SMEs.Originality/valueThe paper is pioneering in presenting different relationships between growth and R&D intensity in the context of low‐ and high‐tech service SMEs.
Internal market orientation and market‐oriented behaviours
Authors: Lings Ian N. , Greenley Gordon E. 
Published: June 2010

PurposeThe purpose of this empirical paper is to investigate internal marketing from a behavioural perspective. The impact of internal marketing behaviours, operationalised as an internal market orientation (IMO), on employees' marketing and other in‐role behaviours (IRB) were examined.Design/methodology/approachSurvey data measuring IMO, market orientation and a range of constructs relevant to the nomological network in which they are embedded were collected from the UK retail managers. These were tested to establish their psychometric properties and the conceptual model was analysed using structural equations modelling, employing a partial least squares methodology.FindingsIMO has positive consequences for employees' market‐oriented and other IRB. These, in turn, influence marketing success.Research limitations/implicationsThe paper provides empirical support for the long‐held assumption that internal and external marketing are related and that organisations should balance their external focus with some attention to employees. Future research could measure the attitudes and behaviours of managers, employees and customers directly and explore the relationships between them.Practical implicationsFirm must ensure that they do not put the needs of their employees second to those of managers and shareholders; managers must develop their listening skills and organisations must become more responsive to the needs of their employees.Originality/valueThe paper contributes to the scarce body of empirical support for the role of internal marketing in services organisations. For researchers, this paper legitimises the study of internal marketing as a route to external market success; for managers, the study provides quantifiable evidence that focusing on employees' wants and needs impacts their behaviours towards the market.
Emotion display rules at work in the global service economy: the special case of the customer
Authors: Grandey Alicia , Rafaeli Anat , Ravid Shy , Wirtz Jochen , Steiner Dirk D. 
Published: June 2010

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to illustrate how emotion display rules are influenced by relational, occupational, and cultural expectations.Design/methodology/approachThe authors compare these influences by assessing anger and happiness display rules toward customers, coworkers, and supervisors across four cultures.FindingsOverall, the findings suggest that anger can be expressed with coworkers, can be slightly leaked to supervisors, but must be almost completely suppressed with customers. In contrast, happiness expression is most acceptable with coworkers. Moreover, though culture dimensions (i.e. power distance and collectivism) do predict display rules with organizational members, display rules with customers are fairly consistent across culture, with two exceptions. French respondents are more accepting of anger expression with customers, while American respondents report the highest expectations for expressing happiness to customers.Practical implicationsThe results support that several countries share the “service with a smile” expectations for customers, but these beliefs are more strongly held in the USA than in other cultures. Thus, importing practices from the USA to other culturally distinct countries may be met with resistance. Management must be aware of cultural differences in emotions and emotion norms, as outlined here, to improve the experience of employees of globalized service organizations.Originality/valueThe authors integrate social, occupational, and cultural theoretical perspectives of emotional display rules, and build on the small but growing research identifying variation in display rules by work target, specifically speaking to the globalized “service culture.”
Organizational learning from customer feedback received by service employees
Authors: Wirtz Jochen , Kuan Tambyah Siok , Mattila Anna S. 
Published: June 2010

PurposeCustomer feedback can help to identify problem areas and strengths, and generate ideas for service improvements. Most feedback is given to frontline employees directly rather than submitted through formal channels. UZnfortunately, employees tend to be reluctant to report such unsolicited feedback. This paper seeks to explore key drivers of employees' willingness to report customer feedback to facilitate organizational learning. Specifically, the paper examines the joint effects of relational social capital, structural social capital, feedback valence (FV) (positive versus negative), and the intended use of information (service improvement versus performance evaluation) on employees' willingness to report unsolicited customer feedback back to the organization.Design/methodology/approachThe paper used two studies. First, semi‐structured in‐depth interviews of employees across organizational levels in two service firms were conducted to explore the relationships between the variables of interest. Second, a quasi‐experimental study was conducted in which FV and intended use of information were manipulated in a true experimental design, and respondents' organization served as backdrop to measure relational and structural social capital.FindingsFV and the intended use of information moderate the impact of social capital on employees' reporting intention. Specifically, the authors found that social capital had a positive impact on employees' willingness to report negative feedback used for evaluation purposes (social capital was less important when used for service improvements). In contrast, for positive feedback, social capital had a positive impact when feedback was used for service improvements (but less so in an evaluation context where staff were naturally motivated to report positive feedback).Practical implicationsFirms need to boost social capital to enhance employees' willingness to report negative feedback that is used for performance evaluation, and positive feedback that is used for understanding and cementing strengths. Social capital can be enhanced through increasing trust and a shared vision (through open and frequent communications), and through providing incentives (rewards and recognition) and improved reporting processes, infrastructure, and training.Originality/valueService employees' reporting behavior of customer feedback received is important but under‐researched. This paper is a first step into understanding the drivers of employees' willingness to report such feedback.
Developing a scale for proactive improvement within logistics outsourcing relationships
Authors: Marcus Wallenburg Carl , Knemeyer A. Michael , Goldsby Thomas J. , Cahill David L. 
Published: June 2010

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to establish a scale for the measurement of proactive improvement, in general, and then more specifically in terms of cost‐ and service‐focused improvement in logistics outsourcing arrangements.Design/methodology/approachUpon completing a review of the literature, scale development is completed in five phases. The first two phases focus on item generation and qualitative validation. The third phase (quantitative pilot testing) involves a sample of 220 logistics managers in Germany. The fourth phase replicates these findings with a sample of 250 US logistics managers. The final phase differentiates the general scale tested and replicated in the previous two phases by assessing the merit of cost‐ and service‐focused scales adapted from the general scale among a separate sample of 298 logistics managers in Germany.FindingsAfter eliminating one measurement item, the German and US samples provide support for a four‐item scale to measure general proactive improvement. Subsequent analysis with a separate sample finds strong support for scales that are adapted to capture the distinct aspects of cost‐ and service‐focused improvement.Research limitations/implicationsResearch indicates that one of the key differentiators in the success of logistics outsourcing relationships is the service provider's ability to achieve proactive improvement, or customer‐oriented ex post adaptations that benefit the customer after the relationship's formation. Little empirical research has been conducted to assess the influence and merit of such improvements. The establishment of valid scales is an important initial step towards understanding the value and nature of proactive improvement in logistics outsourcing relationships.Practical implicationsFuture research using the established scales should help provide practitioners with a better understanding of the value and nature of proactive improvement in logistics outsourcing relationships.Originality/valueThe paper employs a thorough multi‐phase/multi‐sample approach across two distinct countries to devise a scale for an important construct in logistics outsourcing research.
Measuring the importance of attributes in logistics research
Authors: Garver Michael S. , Williams Zachary , LeMay Stephen A. 
Published: June 2010

PurposeTraditional methods of capturing and determining logistics attribute importance have serious research limitations. The purpose of this paper is to introduce maximum difference (MD) scaling as a new research methodology that will improve validity in measuring logistics attribute importance, overcoming many of the limitations associated with traditional methods. In addition, this new research method will allow logistics researchers to identify meaningful need‐based segments, an important goal of logistics research.Design/methodology/approachThis paper provides an overview of MD scaling along with important research advantages, limitations, and practical applications. Additionally, a detailed research process is put forth so that this technique can be implemented by logistics researchers. Finally, an application of this technique is presented to illustrate the research method.FindingsThe importance of truck driver satisfaction attributes was analyzed using bivariate correlation analysis as well as MD scaling analysis. The two sets of results are compared and contrasted. The resulting rank order of attributes is very different and MD scaling results are shown to possess important advantages. As a result of this analysis, MD scaling analysis allows for meaningful, need‐based segmentation analysis, resulting in two unique need‐based driver segments.Practical implicationsFrom a practitioner viewpoint, knowing which attributes are most important will help in investing scarce resources to improve decision making and raise a firm's ROI. Although a number of relevant applications exist, the most important may include examining: the importance of customer service attributes; the importance of logistics service quality attributes; and the importance of customer satisfaction attributes.Originality/valueMD scaling is a relatively new research technique, a technique that has yet to be utilized or even explored in existing logistics and supply chain literature. Yet, evidence is mounting in other fields that suggest this technique has many important and unique advantages. This paper is the first overview, discussion, and application of this technique for logistics and supply chain management and creates a strong foundation for implementing MD scaling in future logistics and supply chain management research.
Evaluating the causes of uncertainty in logistics operations
Authors: Sanchez‐Rodrigues Vasco 
Published: June 2010

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to verify a transport uncertainty triad model taking a supply chain perspective, and determine which different forms of uncertainty impact on transport operations. The aim is to qualitatively evaluate the different types of uncertainty impacting on transport operations rather than estimating the risk that each of them involved. The literature indicates that there are many factors that influence transport operations. This paper aims to determine the key factors that impinge practice.Design/methodology/approachOn the basis of a literature review, a conceptual model was developed to categorise the different factors that impact on transport operations. In order to determine the credibility of this model and assess which factors are the main barriers to effective transport operations a series of focus groups involving UK logistics practitioners and policy makers was undertaken.FindingsThe findings indicate that the main drivers impacting on transport operations are delays, delivery constraints, lack of coordination, and variable demand/poor information. The consequence of these is to reduce the efficiency of transport operations. Also, in the overall focus groups' data, unplanned road congestion represents the biggest individual issue leading to uncertainty.Research limitations/implicationsThe model is refined based only on participants' perceptions. Therefore, further empirical‐based research is needed to quantitatively validate it, for each cluster identifying the frequency with which it occurs and the impact on economic and environmental performance. This will further strengthen understanding of the main uncertainty causes within supply chains in the UK. The model should also be tested through the investigation of real‐world situations, measuring the marginal impact of logistics disruptions, in economic and environmental terms.Practical implicationsThe paper highlights the importance of looking at the whole of the logistics triad when dealing with uncertainty, as often there are multiple sources involving the shipper, carrier and customer. Equally, the paper highlights the importance of external factors, and managers need to consider how to deal with these issues. Although the easiest approach is to accommodate them within operational plans, there is scope for engaging with policy makers to identify ways forward.Originality/valueMany researchers have developed supply chain uncertainty models focusing mainly on manufacturing. Transport has traditionally been considered as a marginal activity within supply chains and it has not been explicitly taken into account in those frameworks. It is necessary to determine the forms of supply chain uncertainty that exist and their impact on transport operations, as they will define the performance of logistics operations.