bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Friction Between Keratin Surfaces as Affected by Some Shrinkproofing Treatments*
Authors: LIPSON M. , HOWARD P. 
Published: July 2010

SummaryThe results of the present experiments show that it is not necessary to alter the physical structure of the fibre scales in order to reduce their D. F. E. on a smooth keratin surface. Treatment of the keratin surface alone with certain of the reagents used for reducing shrinkability will bring about the necessary reduction. These findings therefore support the views of Martin2 (1944) in indicating that the D. F. E. is not simply the physical result of scaliness. They also show that when dealing with fibre surfaces in which the coefficients of friction are very low, the D. F. E. is not as important in interpreting results as the actual value for the coefficients of friction in each direction.Finally, they emphasise the need to have both keratin surfaces treated by the different reagents when observing the effect of the latter on the wool fibre surface. With both surfaces treated it has been found that all the reagents used for reducing shrinkability, except alcoholic caustic potash, markedly reduce the with‐scale and anti‐scale coefficients. Alcoholic caustic potash, on the other hand, increases the value of each.
The Felting of Animal Fibres
Authors: Menkakt J. , Speakman J. B. 
Published: July 2010

Previous work on the related subjects of felting and milling has been reviewed and it 1ms been shown that seemingly divergent theories are complementary rather than contradictory. Special attention has been drawn to the peculiar effects of variations in temperature and pH on the rate of shrinkage in milling: it has been argued that the existence of a critical temperature for milling in alkalis, the nonexistence of a critical temperature for milling in acids, and the decreasing rate of shrinkage with rise of pH in alkaline media are due to two causes. The first, which was originally suggested in 1933, is conflict between case of deformation and power of recovery from deformation; the second, arising out of Martin's theory of milling, is conflict between ease of deformation and penetrating power of the root ends of migrating fibres.Conflict of the second kind suggested that it might be possible to augment the felting power of wool fibres by differential treatment of root and tip ends. Hardening the root ends with cross–linking agents, e. g. mercuric, acetate, and softening of the tip ends with sodium metabisulphito, have both been shown to give fibres of increased felting power, the former by increasing the penetrating power of root ends and the latter by increasing the ease of deformation of the fibres. The highest rate of felting is obtained when hardening of root ends is combined with softening of the tips.The chief importance of the investigation is in relation to the carroting of fur fibres. Although sodium hydroxide was suggested as a possible carroting agent some years ago, increased felting power seems always to be obtained in practice by softening the tip ends with oxidising agents, and the successful use of sodium metabisulphite to augment the felting power of wool confirms an earlier suggestion that the essential function of carroting agents is to cause disulphide bond breakdown. There can be little doubt, therefore, that the range of carroting agents will be extended to include all compounds which promote disulphide bond breakdown. Further, it now seems likely that processes in which hardening of root ends is combined with softening of tips will replace present–day carroting processes, forwhen large–scale experiments were carried out with rabbit fur, which had been cross–linked with mercuric acetate and then carroted with mercuric nitrate, a dramatic rise in felting power was obtained.
Permanent Finishes on Viscose Rayon depending on Cross–bonding
Authors: CAMBBON W. G. , MOBTON T. H. 
Published: July 2010

Evidence is presented which demonstrates the existence of cross–bonds in the molecular struoture of nine modified viscose rayons. In a resin treatment, e. g. the urea–formaldehyde anti–crease process, the greater part of the material is deposited between the molecules of cellulose in the amorphous regions of the fibre. The change in fibre properties, however, is due mainly to a muoh smaller amount of reaotant actively cross–bonding adjacent molecules. In technically important modifications of viscose rayon there is one cross–bond to each 40–100 glucose residues of the fibre cellulose. In the majority of instances the behaviour of the cross–bonds can be adequately represented by definite structural formulae. The cross–bonds studied differ widely in stability, and the technical importance of this point is indicated.The teohnical processes depending on cross–bonding are reviewed, and the anti–crease process is discussed.
Photosensitisation and Tendering by Vat Dyes
Authors: BAMFORD C. H. , DEWAR M. J. S. 
Published: July 2010

The relative activities of a number of vat dyes have been compared for the following photosensitised reactions– (a) tendering of viscose, (b) autoxidation of tetialin, (c) polymerisation of styrene, and (d) deactivation of the excited dyes by oxygen.The tendering activities show no correlation with (c) or (d) but sliow a moderato correlation with (b). It is concluded that the tendering of colluloso in tho presence of water involves a preliminary oxidation of hydi'oxyl ion by tho oxcited dye, and not a transfer of energy to oxygon as Egerton has postulated. The main tendering action involves hydrogen poroxide as an intermediate, in agreement with Egerton. The detailed mechanism is discussed.The tendering of dry cellulose, or of nylon, silk, or cellulose acetate, probably involves non–chain oxidations of the fabrics by the excited dyes. A mechanism is postulated which accounts for the non–formation of hydrogon poroxido in the absence of moisture.The quantum yield and the intensity oxponont in the tendering of moist cellulose have boon ostimatod. The effect of the distribution of dye in the fibre has also been studied.
Some Observations on the Levelling Properties of Acid Dyes I–Level–dyeing Acid Dyes
Authors: LEMIN D. R. , RATTEE I. D. 
Published: July 2010

The rates of dyeing of a large number of level–dyeing acid dyes, measured under specific conditions, tend to decrease with increasing basicity of the dye. The reverse is found to be the case with regard to the relative boiling–off properties of acid dyes. With regard to the production of level dyeings, the Jatter property is of greater importance in view of the general rapidity of uptake of the level–dyeing acid dyes by wool.The effect of pH on the exhaustion of a number of acid dyes has been examined, and the pH–exhaustion curves have been found to follow the shape of the acid titration curves of wool. The sensitivity of the dye exhaustion to pH has been found to increase with the basicity of the dye. A study of the effect of dye remaining in the dyebath after dyeing on the rate of levelling has been made with Naphthalene Red JS and Naphthalene Scarlet 4RS, and a hyperbolic relationship has been found to exist between the time of half–dyeing and the concentration of dye anions in the dyebath. It is shown that good levelling can be promoted only at the expense of exhaustion, and that the safest way in which this can be obtained is by an increase in anion concentration by addition of Glauber's salt or a similar source of anions rather than a decrease in the amount of acid, thereby raising the dyebath pH.
Combination of Wool with Acids in presence of Salts
Authors: Olofsson Bertil 
Published: July 2010

1. Titrations of wool with hydrochloric acid in the presence of sodium chloride, sodium sulphate, potassium chloride, potassium sulphate, and barium chloride, and with sulphuric acid in the presence of sodium chloride and sodium sulphate, have been performed, the absorption of hydrogen, chloride, and sulphate ions being determined.2. The presence of sulphate ions always gives greater absorption of hydrogen ions than does that of chloride ions.3. A critical review of absorption theories is given, as regards their value for interpreting the experimental results.4. Both the Gilbert‐Rideal and the theories are used for accurate comparison with the experiments; the former gives quite satisfactory results, but the latter gives only qualitative agreement.5. It is concluded that chloride and sulphate ions are not dispersed at random in the fibre phase, but are to some extent localized at positive sites, the former having greater affinity for the wool fibre than the latter ions.
An Investigation of the Chemical Reactions involved in the Use of Sodium Formaldehyde‐sulphoxylate in Textile Printing
Authors: Hannay R. J. , Furness W. 
Published: July 2010

In discharge printing with sodium formaldehyde‐sulphoxylate, reduction of the dye is accompanied by oxidation of the formaldehyde‐sulphoxylate to formaldehyde‐bisulphite. Although some preliminary decomposition has been noted during drying of the cloth immediately after printing, the main object of this investigation has been to determine the extent, and to trace the products, of decomposition of the formaldehyde‐sulphoxylate during the steaming of a printed and dried filament visoose‐rayon crêpe.Methods of analysis are described. Their use has shown that the extent of decomposition of the formaldehyde‐sulphoxylate on steaming depends very much on other constituents of the printing paste. In particular, the influence of added sodium carbonate and sodium sulphite in pastes made up with Hritish gum and gum tragacanth has been traced, and the effect of leaving printed goods overnight in warm storage before steaming has also been investigated.Fluidity tests showed that no appreciable tendering of the crepe occurred under any of the conditions imposed in this investigation.
New Developments in the Application of Phthalocyanines in Textile Printing
Authors: Gund F. 
Published: July 2010

A completely new method of using phthalocyanines in textile printing was introduced by the discovery of the Phthalogens, from which the phthalocyanine pigment may be produced in the fibre. Special methods of application were developed, which are characterised by the use of 10–20% of special solvent mixtures, the Levasols, in the aqueous printing pastes containing the intermediate product and the metal, the latter in the form of a soluble salt or as a complex compound.The printing method is adapted to the usual processes and apparatus used in textile printing. Particular attention must be paid to the drying of the prints and pads. Condensation to the dye is best carried out by steaming.The printing process with Phthalogen Brilliant Blue IF3G, the intermediate product, which with a popper salt or the copper complex compound Phthalogen K gives very bright blues of high fastness to light, weather, and boiling, and with nickel salts greenish blues of equally high fastness properties, is described in detail, and the solubility and the stability of the intermediate product are discussed. The possibility of printing alongside dyes of other groups is considered.Success has recently been achieved in developing a process for the production of white and coloured resists under Phthalogen Brilliant Blue IF3G, the resisting agent being an organic base (Phthalotrop B).The production of a green phthalocyanine pigment on the fibre has been made possible by the manufacture of the intermediate product Phthalogen Brilliant Green IFFB. The printing process is similar to that used for the production of the blue dye. The lower solubility of the intermediate product requires the use of another solvent, Levasol F, and the dispersing agent, Emulsifier W. Owing to its extraordinary brightness and outstanding fastness properties, the dye containing copper is of greater importance, the copper being applied as Phthalogen K. The method of printing is discussed, as well as the possibility of application alongside other dye groups in direct printing.
A Survey of the Quality of Crease‐resist Treatment on Fabrics supplied to the Retail Trade
Authors: Best‐Gobdon H. W. 
Published: July 2010

The application of resin finishes to textile fabrics raises many interesting problems, and it was felt that a survey of the actual quality of finished fabrics supplied to the retail trade would provide interesting data. A detailed investigation was carried out on 260 fabrics crease‐resisted with urea‐formaldehyde resins. The results are summarised, and observations, of interest to the technician, are made on the possible causes of some of the more outstanding faults.The most important factor, from a consumer's point of view, is the ability of the fabric to recover from creasing; next comes wash fastness (in retention of colour, overall fabric dimensions, and crease‐resistant properties), followed by fastness to light, and the degree of freedom from chemicals which have been used in the process.The survey has shown that some fabrics could be regarded as quite satisfactory, and that a great many could have been considerably improved by adequate process control. On the other hand, a number were regarded as completely unsatisfactory.Those fabrics with a crease‐recovery of the order of 90.0% which were wash fast, dimensionally stable, dyed with dyes of good light fastness, and with a relatively low free formaldehyde figure were considered to be satisfactory. Failure in any one item of the foregoing was regarded as an undesirable feature.
The Use of Non‐ionic Level‐dyeing Assistants with Chrome‐complex Dyes
Authors: Rattee I. D. 
Published: July 2010

The factors involved in the absorption of chrome‐complex dyes by wool and the problems arising in the search for level‐dyeing assistants are discussed, with particular reference to the use of such non‐ionic agents as Diapersol A (ICI), Lissapol N (ICI), Palatine Fast Salt O (IG), etc.The reactions between Lissapol N and chrome‐complex dyes have been studied. The formation of a complex between Lissapol N and chrome‐complex dyes has been observed and measured quantitatively under controlled conditions. Complex formation appears to take place via the acid groups in the dye molecule.It has been shown that the complex formation between the chrome‐complex dyes and Lhapol N causes the latter to have a beneficial action in chrome‐complex dyebath, notably in the prevention of skittery dyeing.A dyeing process has been developed, involving the use of 5% sulphuric acid, 20% Glauber's salt, and 1–2% Lissapol N on the weight of goods, which enables the acid addition to the dyebath to be reduced with minimum loss of levelling end the virtual prevention of skittery absorption. Comparisons are made between the new dyeing method and previously recommended decreased‐acid methods which employed other agents. Lissapol N has been shown to be superior to other level‐dyeing assistants for chrome‐complex dyes from the points of view of greater effectiveness and greater ease of use because of non‐frothing.
The Influence of the Substrate upon the Light Fading of Azo Dyes
Authors: Chipalkatti H. R. , Desai N. F. , Giles C. H. , Macaulay N. 
Published: July 2010

Several series of simple phenylazonaphthalene dyes, both water‐soluble and water‐insoluble, have been applied to a variety of substrates, and the relative fading rates of the dyes in each series on each substrate have been compared with the Hammett s̀‐values of meta and para substituents in the benzene nucleus. The fading rates on transparent substrates were measured spectrophotometrically and those on opaque substrates by visual judgment, the two procedures giving concordant results. The conclusions reached may be summarised thus–(a) All the substrates used fall distinctly into two classes, according to the sense in which they influence the relative fading rates, viz. (i) proteins, i.e. wool, silk, and gelatin; and (ii) all other materials, including cellulose, cellulose esters and ethers, and nylon.(b) The protein substrates may perhaps take part chemically in the fading reaction, probably by reduction of the dye. The reaction does not appear to involve either the peptide linkages or the hydrocarbon portions of the protein molecules, but may perhaps involve the tyrosine or histidine side‐chains.(c) The non‐protein substrates may perhaps not take part, chemically, in the fading reaction, which is considered to be oxidative in the absence of protein.(d) Differences in the light fastness of any dye on different substrates of the same class are attributable largely to differences in its state of dispersion, determined by the physical nature of the substrates.
Azoic and other Fast Dyeings on Knitted Cotton Fabric
Authors: Wiltshire E. R. 
Published: July 2010

Methods of dyeing the azoic dyes on knitted cotton fabrics on the winch are described. The application of the coupling component is straightforward, but development can cause difficulty. Relatively few developers can be processed satisfactorily on the winch, and as a general method pad development is recommended. For this purpose the fabric should preferably be dried after application of the coupling component. The final aftertreatment of azoic dyeings is done very efficiently on the winch.Pale shades can be dyed with vat dyes on the winch if adequate quantities of Dispersol VL are employed. The technique described is simple and has advantages over the use of solubilised vat dyes, particularly for blues.
The Dyeing of Acetate Rayon with Disperse Dyes IVndashAdsorption Isotherms
Authors: Bird C. L. , Manchester F. 
Published: July 2010

Equilibrium isotherms have been obtained at 80d̀c. with acetate rayon and five disperse dyes. Two azo dyes showed a linear relationship up to saturation between dye on the fibre and dye in the aqueous phase. Non‐linear curves were obtained with three anthraquinonoid dyes, but a straight line was obtained when a solubilisate of 1‐methylamino‐4‐anilinoanthraquinone was used in place of a dispersion. With purified Dispersol Fast Scarlet B the slope of the isotherm was found to be independent of liquor: yarn ratio, and inversely proportional to the concentration of dispersing agent over a limited range.The adsorption by acetate rayon of purified Lissapols C and LS has been studied at 80δc. Both detergents hydrolyse gradually in hot aqueous solution.
The Effect on Wool of Boiling in Aqueous Solutions IIndashSolutions of Ammonium Salts with and without Ammonia
Authors: Peryman R. V. 
Published: July 2010

The pH values at 100d̀c. obtained by extrapolation from measurements on dilute aqueous solutions of ammonium sulphate, acetate, (diammònium) phosphate, chromate, and chloride at temperatures ranging from 18d̀c. to 80d̀c. agree approximately with the pH values at 100d̀c. calculated from the published dissociation constants of the acids, ammonium hydroxide, and water. It follows that pH measurements on The solutions at room temperatures cannot, without other data, be relied upon to indicate their pH values at 100d̀c. Ammonium salt solutions containing added ammonia can have pH values ca. 2 units lower at 100d̀c. than at 18d̀c. Ammonium sulphatendashammonia solutions of alkaline pH values8 when measured at 18d̀c. have acid pH values < 6 at 100d̀c. without loss of ammonia. Metachrome mordant solutions with room‐temperature pH values ca. 6.7–8.7 are at 100d̀c. buffered at ca. pH 6.7.Wool yarn, boiled for 3 hr. in the ammonium salt and ammonia solutions (excluding chromate and chloride) at controlled pH values and at concentrations simulating commercial dyeing, gives degrees of modification, as measured by wet breaking load and content of disulphide sulphur, in fair agreement with the salt contents of the solutions and the pH values at 100d̀c. but not with the pH values at room temperature.
The Iodination of Wool
Authors: Richards H. R. , Speakman J. B. 
Published: July 2010

When wool is iodinated with aqueous solutions of iodine in potassium iodide at different pH values and temperatures, reaction with the tyrosine side‐chains is incomplete, even under the most favourable conditions. With alcoholic solutions of iodine, however, 96% of the tyrosine is converted into 3:5‐di‐iodotyrosine in 72 hr. at 22‐2d̀c., and there is no combination with either histidine or tryptophan.The fact that tyrosine can be iodinated exclusively and almost completely by such a simple procedure affords a useful means of discovering whether the lysine and tyrosine side‐chains are cross‐linked when wool is treated with formaldehyde. Since the amount of iodine which combines with the formaldehyde‐treated wool, after loosely held formaldehyde has been removed with phosphoric acid, is the same as for untreated wool, it is concluded that the lysine and tyrosine side‐chains are not cross‐linked by formaldehyde. It has been shown also that the distribution of tyrosine along the length of single fibres can be determined by taking radiophotographs after the fibres have been iodinated with 131I.
Polarographic Investigation of Fur Dyes and their Oxidation Products
Authors: SANDBERG G. 
Published: July 2010

The effect of pH on the oxidation of p‐phenylenediamine has been investigated. It has been found that the maximum yield of one of the oxidation products– benzoquinone‐1:4‐bis‐(2:5‐diaminoanil). is obtained in a pH interval at which acidity has a marked effect on the state of aggregation of this compound. A change of pH from 6.0 to 7.3 causes its diffusion coefficient to change from 4.8 × 10‐6 to 1.0 × 10‐6 sq. cm./sec.As this pH interval covers that used in technical fur dyeing, even small fluctuations in pH have an intricate effect on the diffusion properties of this oxidation product, and therefore also on fur dyeing. Absorption spectroscopy indicates qualitative differences between oxidation products formed at different pH values. There is equivalence between the shifts of position and changes of shape of the absorption bands and the observed changes in slope of the curves of half‐wave potential against pH for the different products.Catalase in the presence of hydrogen peroxide accelerates the oxidative condensation of benzoquinone‐1:4‐bis‐(2:5‐diaminoanil). This change can thus be effected very rapidly without applying the usual chromium or copper salts.Some applications of vertical paper electrophoresis are given, including separation and identification of oxidation products formed under different conditions, and also demonstration of differences between the dissociation constants of different nitro derivatives.Besides the use of the analytical results in determining the percentages of p‐phenylenediamine and related compounds in batches from different suppliers, polarography provides a valuable means of determining exhaustion curves in dyebaths, usually comprising a mixture of five or six oxidisable, reducible, and non‐reducible substances, where colorimetric methods would meet with difficulties. Hydrogen peroxide, which is always present, is eliminated by the addition of catalase to the different samples of dye liquor.
Interaction between Chlorazol Sky Blue FF and Chrysophenine G in Aqueous Solution
Authors: DERBYSHIRE A. N. , PETERS R. H. 
Published: July 2010

The absorption spectra of mixtures of Chlorazol Sky Blue FF and Chrysophenine G in aqueous solution have been measured at room temperature and at 60°c. Spectra of regenerated cellulose sheet dyed with the two dyes from mixture dyebaths have also been determined. Paper and column chromatography on mixtures of the two dyes confirm the formation of complexes, deduced from the spectral measurements. The heat of formation of the 1:1 complex of the two dyes, measured by direct calorimetry, is –15 kcal. per mole. Finally, equilibrium adsorption of the two dyes by cotton from mixture dyebaths has been determined.It is concluded that formation of a 1:1 complex occurs in aqueous solution to an appreciable extent even at 90°c. This complex formation explains in a semi‐quantitative way the change in dye adsorption compared with that of the same dyes when applied singly. It is very probable that failure of dyeing data on single dyes to predict the behaviour of the same dyes in mixtures is due to interaction of this kind between the dyes in solution.