bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Water‐repellent Finishes—Modern Use of Silicones
Authors: Madaras G. W. 
Published: July 2010

One‐day Symposium on “New Information on Finishing Processes” held by the Manchester Section at the Manchester College of Science and Technology on 21st March 1958, Mr. J. W. Reidy in the chairRecent developments in the application of silicones to textiles are discussed. Advantages as well as shortcomings of treatments from organic‐solvent solutions and aqueous emulsions are outlined. The importance to the industry of low‐temperature‐curing silicone compositions is stressed, and the function of organo‐metallic titanium compounds in bringing about low‐temperature catalysis is explained.
The Effect of Sulphuric Acid on Wool
Authors: Elliott R. L. , Asquith R. S. , Rawson D. H. 
Published: July 2010

The attack of sulphuric acid of various concentrations on wool has been examined under different conditions of temperature and time of treatment. The damaged fibres have been observed microscopically, and results correlated with weight changes and amide‐nitrogen analyses.The attack has been shown to be of the following main types—

Hydrolysis in concentrations of acid up to 44% concentrated sulphuric acid by weight.
Rapid dissolution in concentrations of acid between 44% and 81‐3%, the histological attack being different from the simple hydrolytic attack in (1).
A slow attack, at concentrations between 93% and 98%, which becomes considerably more rapid at temperatures above 60%.
A rapid oxidative attack and dissolution, presumably due to free sulphur trioxide, in acid concentrations above 98%.

At. higher temperatures, all types of attack are more rapid.
Dyeing Properties of Mature and Immature Cotton
Authors: Furvik Nils‐Bertil 
Published: July 2010

Laboratory dyeing experiments, carried out with direct dyes on immature and mature cotton fibres of known origin, showed that the maturity did not affect the amount of dye absorbed at equilibrium. The absorption and desorption rates, however, were higher for immature than for mature fibres. Mercerisation of the fibres before dyeing did not greatly affect the differences.The causes of why immature fibres in general and especially in neps look lighter in colour than the rest of the fabric are discussed. A theory is put forward that, besides the effect of optical differences, the differences in depth are caused by the more rapid desorption of dye from immature fibres. Such differences would be exaggerated by unsuitable processing conditions, e.g. during rinsing, which was confirmed by some laboratory dyeings on fabric samples.From the results, it was predicted that, in order to obtain an even colour on a fabric containing immature as well as mature fibres, dyeing should not be carried on until equilibrium is reached and that rinsing and aftertreatments should be carried out so that the dye desorption will be as small as possible.
The Dyeing of Cellulose Acetate with Disperse Dyes VIII– Determination of Fibre Saturation Values
Authors: BIRD C. L. , PARTOVI H. K. , TABBRON G. 
Published: July 2010

Fibre saturation values have been determined at 60° and 80°c, in presence of a dispersing agent, for 15 disperse dyes on secondary cellulose acetate. In most cases the results agree with those obtained by calculation from aqueous solubilities and partition coefficients in the absence of dispersing agent. With the more hydrophilic disperse dyes, however, e. g. those containing two N–β–hydroxyethyl groups, low values are obtained in presence of dispersing agent. This is attributed to adsorption of dispersing agent rendering the fibre more hydrophobic.When a fibre saturation value is determined by means of a single dyeing carried out in presence of a large amount of commercial dye, the result may be much too high owing to (a) the presence of coloured impurities and shading components and (b) the absence of sufficient dispersing agent to stabilise the concentrated dispersion and so prevent surface adsorption of dye by the fibre.
The Fifth George Douglas Lecture
Authors: Gutmann Walter 
Published: July 2010

Meeting held at the Midland Hotel, Bradford, on 5th November 1958, Mr. John Boulton (President of the Society) in the chairOn the basis of the four fundamental requirements of textiles— sales appeal, wear resistance, ease of maintenance, and body protection— a survey is given of the resulting problems for the textile finisher. The contributions of chemistry and application development as well as recently of physics, mathematics, and electronics to modern finishing techniques are demonstrated by several examples with textiles of natural and synthetic fibres. The results obtained and possible achievements of future research work are considered. The present outstanding task is seen to lie in gaining precise and complete knowledge of the interrelationship between garment and human body to provide maximum comfort in clothing for any type of use by adjusting the fabrics to the necessities of body comfort.
Felisol An International Informative Label for Colour Fastness
Authors: McLaren K. 
Published: July 2010

Meeting of the Manchester Section held at the Textile Institute, Manchester, on 19th December 1958,Mr. J. W. Reidy in the chairA historical account of the development of the International Association for the Felisol Fastness Label with special reference to the technical problems of issuing an informative label concerned with colour fastness.
The Dyeing of Polyester Fibres and Blends
Authors: Partridge H. W. 
Published: July 2010

One‐day Conference of the West Riding Section held at the Bradford Institute of Technology on 7th November 1958, Mr. R. Heaton in the chairThe first part of this paper reviews the methods at present employed in dyeing yarns and hosiery composed of 100% polyester fibre. The use of disperse dyes in conjunction with carriers and the adoption of high‐temperature dyeing methods in the application of disperse dyes and azoic combinations are discussed, with descriptions of the machines employed. The second part of the paper is devoted to the methods employed in the dyeing of blends of polyester fibres with wool, cotton, and nylon.
Antistatic Agents in the Textile Industry
Authors: Henshall A. E. 
Published: July 2010

Meetings of the Midlands Section held jointly with the Nottingham Textile Society at the Gas Board Theatre, Nottingham, on 18th November 1958, Mr. A. W. Carpenter in the chair; of the Scottish Section held jointly with the Textile Institute at the St. Enoch Hotel, Glasgow, on 10th February 1959, Mr. W. G. B. Grant in the, chair; of the Huddersfield Section held at Silvio's Cafe, Huddersfield, on 17th February 1959, Mr. H. Boothroyd in the chair; and of the London Section held in the rooms of the Royal Society, Burlington House, London, on 6th March 1959, Dr. T. H. Morton in the chairThe causes of “static” are discussed and appropriate counter‐measures described. Surface‐active agents are the most convenient to use and possess the greatest all‐round utility in the textile industry. The preferred properties of antistatic agents are given and suitable test methods discussed. Antistatic agents reduce the electrical resistance of fibres and are hygroscopic, but cannot be evaluated solely on the basis of these properties. It is probable that the nature and orientation of the hydrophilio groups of the agents on the fibre determine the antistatic effect, and that antistatic agents function not only because they are hygroscopic and reduce fibre resistance, but because they are orientated in a specific manner on the fibre surface. The “ageing” of antistatic agents appears to be due to diffusion into the fibre, resulting in a reduced surface concentration and a correspondingly diminished antistatic effect; it is accompanied by an increase in the electrical surface resistance of the fibre. Antistatic agents reduce fibre resistance even at elevated temperatures and low atmospheric humidities.
Setting of Wool Fibres in Dyeing
Authors: Peryman R. V. , Pickup R. P. 
Published: July 2010

The degree of permanence of set (to release in boiling water) in single wool fibres which have been dyed whilst held stretched, varies widely with the method of dyeing.Dyeing under neutral to slightly alkaline conditions and dyeing by afterchrome methods produce high degrees of permanent set, but supercontraction can occur after the use of strongly acid or acid chrome‐mordant methods with sexivalent chromium. All dyeing processes give temporary set, but this can be much less with certain processes carried out at low temperature or under strongly acid conditions. The steaming of tufts of fibres, previously dyed (or chrome‐dyed) by different methods under tension, produces marked differences in length and crimp. Twist is set more completely than extension and is less affected by subsequent steaming.
Photochemical Reactions of Azo Dyes in Solution with Different Substrates
Authors: van Beer H. C. A. , Heertjes P. M. 
Published: July 2010

Solutions of azo dyes iii water containing different soluble substrates have been exposed to ultraviolet and visible radiation. It has been found that many compounds react photochemically as hydrogen donors and cause reduction of azo dyes present in the same solution. Fading of such solutions takes place only when the radiation is absorbed by the substrate. Fading is evidently the result of interaction of excited substrate molecules with dye molecules or excited dye molecules. Substrates containing carboxyl, hydroxyl, or aryl groups attached to methyl, methylene, or aliphatic CH‐ groups show high photochemical activity when the compounds absorb light of long wavelength.Kinetic measurements have shown that the fading reactions are of first order with respect to the concentration of the excited substrate molecules at low substrate concentrations. Fading of azo dyes in solutions containing different substrates is partly inhibited by the presence of oxygen. The results indicate that oxygen can act as a hydrogen acceptor in the same way as the azo dyes. Kinetic experiments carried out for one system suggest that the inhibition is partly caused by reoxidation of reduced dye radicals to the original dye by peroxide radicals. A mechanism for the inhibition is proposed.
Chemical Reactions between Dyes and Wool
Authors: DERBYSHIRE A. N. , TRISTRAM G. R. 
Published: July 2010

Work on the application of chlorotriazinyl reactive dyes to wool is reviewed. It is shown that, under the hot acidic dyeing conditions that must be used to obtain satisfactory dyeings on untreated wool without the aid of solvents, the fixation, and hence the wet–fastness properties, is limited by the absorption of hydrolysed dye. The possibility of applying dichlorotriazinyl dyes to shrink–resist–treated wool under alkaline conditions and at low temperatures is discussed.The application to wool of dyes containing acrylamido groups is considered in detail. This group does not hydrolyse in the dyebath. Consequently, very high levels of fixation to the fibre can be attained under appropriate conditions, and the relation between fixation and fastness to severe wet treatments is demonstrated. The mechanism of the reaction of acrylamido dyes with wool has been studied. Reactivity towards model compounds in solution suggests that reaction with primary and secondary amino groups and with thiol groups is the principal mechanism of their reaction with wool, and the importance of amino groups is also indicated by the relative reactivity of an acrylamido dye towards wool, silk, and nylon. Amino–acid analyses of wool dyed to heavy depths with unmetallised and 1: 2 metal–complex acrylamido dyes show that reaction takes place predominantly with the –amino group of lysine residues, there being no evidence of reaction with the thiol group of cysteine nor with histidine residues.Preliminary work with a chloroacetyl reactive dye suggests that this group reacts with both cysteine and histidine residues.
Dimensional Stability of Wool Cloth and Measurement of Relaxation Potential
Authors: LEES K. , MEDLEY J. A. 
Published: July 2010

The following three types of dimensional change in wool cloth are discussed— (1) Relaxation shrinkage, which is irreversible and is caused by the release of latent strains in the cloth. (2) Hygral change, which is the reversible change in dimensions occurring when the regain of wool cloth changes. (3) Press shrinkage caused by pressing cloth in a locked steam press.A new method of measuring steam‐relaxation shrinkage is described. This is more appropriate than water soaking as a guide to performance in garment manufacture. Finally, high‐temperature decatising is described, and its effects on the properties of the cloth are discussed.
Effect of Processing and Finishing on Wool. I‐Water‐sorption Properties
Authors: LEEDER J. D. , WATT I. C. 
Published: July 2010

Equilibrium water contents of wool samples taken from many stages of processing and wet finishing have been measured at various humidities. The absorption isotherms obtained have been related to the known effects that specific chemical modifications have on the wool—water isotherm.Mechanical processing of loose wool to fabric had a negligible effect on water uptake over the whole humidity range. In general, treatments that damage wool caused increased water uptake at high humidities, and two or more such treatments in succession resulted in higher water content than did single treatments. The presence of hygroscopic salts or reaction by‐products also increased water uptake above 80% r.h. The presence of dye generally reduced the water content at low and intermediate humidities. Under mild dyeing conditions the reduction of water content persisted up to saturation, but more severe treatment caused increased saturation water contents. Some setting treatments also reduced the water content at humidities below 80% r.h., presumably owing to the presence of added reagent, and dyeing followed by setting increased the reduction in water uptake. Surface degradation by chemical shrink‐res treatments increased water uptake at high humidities. None of the treatments studied caused large changes in regain in the humidity ranges encountered in normal use.
Surface‐active Agents in Textile Processes and their Effect on Effluents
Authors: BARNES W. V. , DOBSON S. 
Published: July 2010

Various types of surface‐active agent and their applications in textile processing are reviewed. In choosing a product for a particular application, the user must consider many factors, such as the biodegradability of the agent and its subsequent influence on effluents, waste treatment, and water pollution. A very wide choice of branded products is currently available, but approximately 95 % of the materials are based on a limited number of organic chemicals, the most important of which are the ethylene oxide condensates of alkylphenols and straight‐chain alcohols, secondary alkyl sulphates, the alkylbenzenesulphonates (both branched‐ and straight‐chain), and the primary alcohol sulphates. The biodegradability of these materials is discussed in relation to their chemical structures.Many of the surface‐active materials now in use are biologically degradable. However, many non‐ionic agents are biologically hard. Considerable attention is being focused on them since, at very low concentrations, they have a synergistic effect on the foaming of surface waters when traces of anionic detergents are present. Desirably, these biologically hard materials should be replaced by materials that do not have objectionable properties with regard to water purity. When new biodegradable products are being developed full consideration should also be given to their applicational characteristics.
The Physico‐chemical Hydrodynamics of Dyeing
Authors: McGregor R. , Peters R. H. , Varol K. 
Published: July 2010

Meetings of the Leeds Junior Section, held in the Department of Colour Chemistry and Dyeing, University of Leeds, on 11 November 1969, Mr K. R. F. Cockett in the chair; and of the Manchester Region, held at the Literary and Philosophical Society, Manchester, on 20 November 1969, Mr H. R. Hadfield in the chairFilms of methoxymethylnylon 6.6 have been inserted into a stream of dye‐liquor. The rates of dyeing of an acid dye at different points down the film were measured. Under some conditions of dyeing, the rate was shown to be controlled by the diffusion in the liquid phase. Values of the thickness of the diffusional boundary layer were calculated from the flux and shown to agree with theory. Modifications of the dyeing conditions, e.g. by increasing the pH or lowering thedyebath concentration, reduced the diffusion coefficient of the dye in the film, and the rate of dyeing became dependent on diffusion both in the film and in the liquid.
The Dyeing and Finishing of Vincel 64‐Cotton and Vincel 64‐Polyester Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Madaras George W. , Robinson C. Gordon 
Published: July 2010

Meeting of the Midlands Region, held at the Post House, Sandiacre, on 8 November 1972, MrH. W. Partridge in the chair.The manufacture, characteristics and fibre properties of Vincel 64 (Courtaulds) high‐wet‐modulus fibre are discussed. The general dyeing behaviour of this fibre is described and compared with that of Fibro (Courtaulds). Information is given on the preparation of Vincel 64‐cotton blends by batchwise and continuous techniques, followed by dyeing on winch or Jet machines with the usual classes of dye for cellulose. Attention is drawn to the importance of selecting dyes with good partition between the two fibres. Details are given of suitable chemical finishes which can be applied to impart improved easy‐care properties and dimensional stability. The preparation, heat setting, dyeing and finishing of Vincel 64‐polyester single‐ and double‐jersey fabrics are described with particular reference to practical techniques.
The Development of Disperse Dyes for Acetate Fibres
Authors: FOURNESS ROBERT K. 
Published: July 2010

Presented at the Golden Jubilee Symposium on Disperse Dyes, held at the British Celanese Sports and Social Club, Spondon, on 10 May 1973, Mr W. Venn in the chair.The early development work on disperse dyes during the ‘acetate years’ ‐ the first 30 years of use of these dyes ‐ is described. The problems encountered ‐ dispersion and choice of dispersing agents, dusting, application of dyes in mixture, gas‐fume fading, and phototropism ‐are discussed.
The Development of Dyes and Methods for Dyeing Polyester
Authors: DERBYSHIRE ALAN N. 
Published: July 2010

Early work on the dyeing of polyester fibre showed that only dyes of very low aqueous solubility had substantivity for the fibre, and that for dyeing at the boil without a carrier only the smallest molecular weight disperse dyes, and selected azoic combinations, had sufficiently high dyeing rate to give adequate colour yield in a practicable time of dyeing. The development of carriers for dyeing at the boil, and of machinery for batchwise dyeing under pressure at temperatues up to 140°C, extended the range of suitable dyes to those of lower dyeing rate but higher heat–fastness properties. As an alternative to exhaust dyeing, polyester may be dyed with disperse dyes by padding followed by dry heat fixation at temperatures up to 220°C, and this method has found its main commercial application in the continuous dyeing of polyester–cellulosic blend fabrics.The development of new disperse dyes has followed these trends in application methods, and the proportion of available dyes having higher heat–fastness properties has steadily increased from about 1950 onwards. Improvements have also taken place over the same period in the physical properties of the dyes, to meet the increasingly severe demands on dispersion properties imposed by the newer dyeing methods.
Measurement of Foam Under High‐temperature Dyeing Conditions
Authors: Derbyshire A. N. , Leaver A. T. 
Published: July 2010

A new method is described for the measurement of foaming under laboratory conditions, which permits measurements to be made from room temperature up to 140d̀ Con liquors which can be taken through a simulated high‐temperature (HT) dyeing cycle. Results obtained by this technique show that:

There is a universal tendency for foaming to decrease as the temperature is raised, and to become insignificant under HT conditions.
The solid forms of disperse dyes usually give much greater foam volumes than the liquid forms of the same dyes at the same concentration of dye.
Marked differences are found in the tendency of different dispersing agents to foam.
Existing antifoaming agents of the silicone emulsion type are effective defoamers in the early stages of the dyeing cycle, but lose their effectiveness after a period at top temperature, so that there is little control of foam by this type of product on cooling back to below the boil.
Random Errors in Dyeing — The Relative Importance of Dyehouse Variables in the Reproduction of Dyeings
Authors: SUMNER H. H. 
Published: July 2010

The effects of random variations in all aspects of the dyeing process are considered in terms of the visual differences from target of the dyed material and the statistical chances of being within certain tolerance limits at the first attempt.This work is supported by a study of the accuracy with which dye is presented to substrate in bulk dyeing and this shows that two major causes of irreproducibility are the faulty weighing of dye and the inaccurate measurement of volume. This conclusion is based on work done with the co‐operation of four large dyehouses and there is no reason to suppose that their performance in these respects is grossly misrepresentative of the trade as a whole.
Dyeing in Two Dimensions. A Review of the Use of the Monolayer Method in the Study of Dye‐Fibre Reactions
Authors: GILES CHARLES H. 
Published: July 2010

Brief reference to the origins of studies of monolayer films on water is followed by descriptions of two of the principal methods of examining their properties: the relation between film area and pressure, and the surface viscosity.Films can be produced either from actual fibre‐forming polymers, e.g. cellulose, cellulose triacetate (CTA) or models, e.g. certain proteins to represent wool, and their reactions with dyes studied. All effects of the morphology of the fibres, especially porosity, can thus be eliminated, and the actual fibre‐dye forces revealed.Three general types of film behaviour have been identified in the above type of study:

Monionic dyes penetrate the film, while their ionic group remains in the water. The film is thus expanded, but becomes weaker and more compressible. Examples include monosulphonated dyes with proteins and mono‐ionic basic dyes with cellulose.
Dyes with planar molecules and two or more widely spaced sulphonate groups, with cellulose or protein films, as well as disperse dyes with CTA, orientate beneath the film, with their molecules parallel with the polymer chains in the film. Direct dyes with cellulose react in this way, but the bond to the cellulose is weak, and the film viscosity is not increased. Disperse dyes form a strong bond with the CTA film, by polar forces, and increase the film viscosity.
Reactive dyes or bifunctional dyes with certain strongly‐bonding groups, e.g. ‐OH, in the molecule, expand the film and greatly increase its viscosity and in certain cases form crosslinks with the polymer chains, thus strengthening the film.

The application of the Gibbs adsorption equation to some of the above types of reaction is discussed.