bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Stitching across time: Heritage and history in contemporary Hong Kong fashion
Authors: Radclyffe-Thomas Natascha 
Published: September 2015

Abstract
Popular media celebrates the iconic Hong Kong dress – the cheongsam; yet, its existence is threatened as Hong Kong’s population of master tailors is rapidly dwindling. Hong Kong’s fashion identity is closely intertwined with the changing patterns of the global fashion industry. Hong Kong once buzzed with factories supplying the world’s wardrobes, but recent developments resulted in the loss of its manufacturing base, and as fashions changed the once ubiquitous cheongsam was consigned to fashion history. With the recent focus on heritage and slow fashion, making has become a key component in fashion marketing. Companies in the United Kingdom and United States are reviving old brands and launching new ones, using abandoned industrial equipment and reinvigorating local economies. This increased focus on country of origin, artisanship and sustainability also offers opportunities for Hong Kong to reposition itself, and this article surveys the contemporary fashion landscape in order to inform a debate on cultural heritage in fashion and its marketing.
Two different tales of fashion media industry development in Mainland China and Hong Kong
Authors: Tse Tommy 
Published: September 2015

Abstract
By revisiting relevant literature and case studies, this article first outlines Euro-American fashion media’s influence on and the development of the Chinese fashion media industry. The participant field research created chances for interviews with sixteen Chinese fashion media insiders from 2011 to 2013. Apparently, Hong Kong journalists take a pessimistic view of the local fashion industry. Mainland fashion media personnel, by contrast, take an optimistic view of the industry’s potential in China. The interview data suggest that such contradictory visions may arise from differing political changes and cultural biases. It is argued that the fashion media industry has never reached a cultural renaissance in either Hong Kong or China proper, despite their respective economic boom over the past decades. Fashion was taboo, a sign of bourgeois taste, and considered morally inferior in the communist ideology. Against this backdrop, colonial Hong Kong, where fashion was adopted to manifest a modern Chinese identity, did not share this ideological change. With the arrival of 1997, the situation changed under the fast-growing Chinese economy and information flow. The shifting fashion industries and cultural politics in the two regions construct new relations between the post-socialist country and its postcolonial city.
Born global: A new perspective for Chinese fashion design
Authors: Lindgren Tim 
Published: September 2015

Abstract
In this article I contend that the gathering momentum of the Chinese fashion industry has reached an important tipping point. Typically this impetus has been constrained by two key forces that have shaped the perception of Chinese development. Chinese culture and Chinese politics have long held an almost insurmountable presence over many aspects of daily life, including cultural and creative expression; however, this is changing rapidly, in part because of China’s global ascendency as an economically powerful nation, but more importantly because of borderless exchanges of aesthetic information due to globalization and the integration of digital and social media in daily life. This new perspective means that Chinese fashion designers must increasingly be born global, with a focus on creating innovative and agile business models as well as distinct aesthetic design signatures that resonate no longer with a country-specific consciousness but invoke a sophisticated world-view.
The fashioned victims: Addressing the un/dressed body in Hwang’s M. Butterfly
Authors: Lin Emile Cheng-Hsien 
Published: September 2015

Abstract
In The Body and Society, Turner indicates that ‘There is an obvious and prominent fact about human beings; they have bodies and they are bodies’. Human bodies are simultaneously dressed bodies. In M. Butterfly, Song’s dressed body lures/ seduces Gallimard into his calculated scheme, whereas his undressed body triggers the collapse of Gallimard’s fantasy and foregrounds the undermining subversion. Thus, Song’s un/dressed body plays a vital role and deserves further investigation. By addressing the un/dressed body it not only delves into the mechanism of deconstruction but also focalizes the inextricable connection between body and self-identity. The focus on the dressed and undressed body can exemplify how the representation of self through fashion can be carefully calculated to make and then break a person. Thus, this article seeks to address the un/dressed body to redress the core issues, such as power relation, sexuality and sexual orientation, dramatized in Hwang’s M. Butterfly in order to show the seminal relation between the body and shaping of identity. Moreover, it goes beyond to re-examine and challenge the dress/ body/self as a totality by arguing how both Song and Gallimard become fashioned victims through the experience of the sublime in the economy established by the bodily scheme.
Book Reviews
Authors: Sperling Joy , Lindholm Christina , Loranger David , Muratovski Gjoko , Yoo Jeong-Ju , Hart Rachel , Martin Kathi 
Published: September 2015

Abstract
Sustainable Fashion: Past, Present, and Future, Jennifer Farley Gordon and Colleen Hill (2015) London, New Delhi, New York and Sydney: Bloomsbury, 237 pp., ISBN h/bk: 978-0-8578-5184-0, p/bk: 978-08578-5185-7
Shoes: An Illustrated History, Rebecc a Sh awcross (2014) Bloomsbury: London, 256 pp., ISBN: 9781472531001, h/bk, $40.00
Cultural Threads: Transnational Textiles Today, Jessica Hemmings (2015) London, UK: Bloomsbury, 248 pp., ISBN: 9781472530936, p/bk, $47.45
Luxury: Fashion, Lifestyle and Excess , Patrizia Calefato (2014) London, New Delhi, New York and Sydney: Bloomsbury, 116 pp., ISBN: 9780857853318, p/bk, £16.19; h/bk, £49.50
The Visible Self: Global Persp ectives on Dress , Culture, and Society, Joanne B. Eich er and Sandra Lee Evenson (2015) New York and London: Fairchild Books, 406 pp., ISBN: 97816099018702, p/bk, $115.00
Who’s Who in Fashion, Price Allford, Holly and Stegemeyer, Anne (2014) 6th ed. London and New York: Fairchild Books, An Imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc., 476 pp., ISBN: 9781609019693, $93.99
Fashion and Museums : Theory and Practice, Marie Riegels Melch ior and Birgitta Svensson (eds) (2014) London: Bloomsbury Academic, 210 pp., ISBN: 9781472567932, p/bk, $24.50–$29.85
The relationship between classroom teachers’ perceptions of workload and intent to leave<p>Sınıf öğretmenlerinin iş yükü algıları ile işten ayrılma niyetleri arasındaki ilişki
Authors: Cerit Yusuf , Özdemir Tuncay 
Published: September 2015

<p>The purpose of the present study was to explore the relationship between perceives of classroom teachers’ workload and intent to leave. Data in this study were collected from a total number of 263 classroom teachers. Workload was measured using the workload scale. The scale was developed by Bacharach, Bamberger and Conley (1990) and was adapted for teachers by Conley and You (2014). Intent to leave was measured using intent to leave scale. The scale was developed by Landen and Hammer (1986) and was adapted for teachers by Conley and You (2014). Mean, standard deviation, correlation and regression test were used in analysis of data. Data analysis indicated that there was a significant positively correlation between workload and intent to leave, and workload was significantly predictor of intent to leave.</p><p> </p><p><strong>Özet</strong></p><p>Bu çalışmanın amacı sınıf öğretmenlerinin iş yükü algıları ile işten ayrılma niyetleri arasındaki ilişkiyi incelemektir. Bu çalışmanın verileri 2013-2014 öğretim yılında Bolu ili merkez ilçe sınırları içerisinde yer alan ilkokullarda görev yapan 263 sınıf öğretmeninden elde edilmiştir. Araştırmanın verileri Bacharach, Bamberger ve Conley (1990) tarafından geliştirilen ve Conley ve You (2014) tarafından öğretmenlere uyarlanan iş yükü ölçeği, Landen ve Hammer (1986) tarafından geliştirilen ve Conley ve You (2014) tarafından öğretmenlere uyarlanan işten ayrılma niyeti ölçeği kullanılarak elde edilmiştir. Verilerin analizinde aritmetik ortalama ve standart sapma, korelasyon ve regresyon analizi kullanılmıştır. Araştırmada iş yükü algıları ile işten ayrılma niyetleri arasında olumlu ve anlamlı ilişki bulunmuş ve iş yükünün, öğretmenlerin işten ayrılma niyetlerinin anlamlı bir açıklayıcısı olduğu saptanmıştır.</p>
Youth and intimate media cultures: Gender, sexuality, relationships, and desire as storytelling practices in social networking sites
Authors: de Ridder Sander , van Bauwel Sofie 
Published: September 2015

AbstractThis paper investigates how young people give meaning to gender, sexuality, relationships, and desire in the popular social networking site (SNS) Netlog. In arguing how SNSs are important spaces for intimate politics, the extent to which Netlog is a space that allows contestations of intimate stories and a voicing of difference is questioned. These intimate stories should be understood as self-representational media practices; young people make sense of their intimate stories in SNSs through media cultures. Media cultures reflect how audiences and SNS institutions make sense of intimacy. This paper concludes that intimate stories as media practices in the SNS Netlog are structured around creativity, anonymity, authenticity, performativity, bricolage and intertextuality. The intimate storytelling practices focusing on creativity, anonymity, bricolage and intertextuality are particularly significant for a diversity of intimacies to proliferate.
Carbon fiber-reinforced plastics based on epoxy resin toughened with core shell rubber impact modifiers
Authors: Park Hyeongcheol , Jung Hana , Yu Jaesang , Park Min , Kim Seong Yun 
Published: September 2015

AbstractThe weak impact properties of carbon fiber-reinforced plastics (CFRPs) are due to their laminated structure, thus limiting the use of these materials in various automotive applications even though they provide weight savings as compared with metal materials. In this study, core shell rubbers (CSRs), which are known for their excellent dispersion characteristics, were selected as an impact modifier and CFRPs incorporated with CSRs were fabricated using the vacuum-assisted resin transfer molding process to enhance their impact properties. CFRPs with highly reinforced carbon fibers of 72–74 wt.% were prepared without voids as confirmed by morphological and thermogravimetric data. The impact strength of the CFRPs was improved by up to 87.5%, depending on the increase in CSR content, but their tensile properties were not reduced, indicating that these properties were predominantly determined by the continuous reinforcement of carbon fibers. Therefore, CSRs are an effective impact modifier for improving the impact properties of CFRPs. These findings will help in increasing the use of CFRPs as automotive structural materials.
Hydrogel beads from sugar cane bagasse and palm kernel cake, and the viability of encapsulated Lactobacillus acidophilus
Authors: Chia Pei Xin , Tan Ly Jun , Ying Huang Caroline May , Chiang Chan Eric Wei , Wei Wong Stephenie Yoke 
Published: September 2015

AbstractCarboxymethyl cellulose and hydrogel beads produced from sugar cane bagasse (SCB) and palm kernel cake (PKC) were characterised, and the ability of the hydrogel beads to encapsulate and protect the probiotic bacteria of Lactobacillus acidophilus (LA-5) under simulated gastrointestinal conditions was investigated. Encapsulation with SCB and PKC hydrogel beads was performed with 87.4% and 80.9% efficiency, respectively, compared with that with alginate hydrogel beads, which had 75.0% efficiency. LA-5 free cells and those encapsulated in alginate hydrogel beads showed no survival. LA-5 cells encapsulated in SCB and PKC hydrogel beads retained high survival under stomach conditions of pH 2 after 1.5 h (>6 log CFU/ml) and 3 h (>4 log CFU/ml). However, no survival of cells was observed under colon conditions of pH 7.5 after 24 h. SCB and PKC hydrogel beads were able to protect the cells against the pH conditions of the stomach but not of the colon.
Capacity of Cognitive Radio with Partial Channel Distribution Information in Rayleigh Fading Environments
Authors: Xu D. , Li Q. 
Published: September 2015

AbstractThis paper investigates the capacity of the secondary user (SU) in a cognitive radio (CR) network in Rayleigh fading environments. Different from existing works where perfect channel state information (CSI) or channel distribution information (CDI) of the interference link from the SU to the primary user (PU) is assumed to be available, this paper assumes that only partial CDI is available. Specifically, we assume the distribution parameter is unknown and estimated from a set of channel gain samples. With such partial CDI, closed-form expressions for the ergodic and outage capacities of the SU are obtained under the transmit power and the interference outage constraints. It is shown that the capacity with partial CDI is not degraded compared to that with perfect CDI if the interference outage constraint is loose. It is also shown that the capacity can be significantly improved by increasing the number of channel gain samples.
Optimization of tribological behavior of Pongamia oil blends as an engine lubricant additive
Authors: Singh Yashvir , Garg Rajnish , Kumar Suresh 
Published: September 2015

AbstractThis investigation reports on the effect of Pongamia oil doped with lube oil on tribological characteristics of Al-7% Si alloy using the Taguchi method. The control factors involved were Pongamia oil percentage (PB 0%, PB 15%, PB 30%), sliding velocity (1.3 m/s, 2.5 m/s, 3.8 m/s) and load (50 N, 100 N, 150 N) which was optimized for weight loss, friction coefficient and wear rate characteristics of Al-7% Si alloy. The conventional lubricant SAE 40 was used for the experiment and for contamination. In this study, L
Military Expenditures and Free-Riding in NATO
Authors: Odehnal Jakub 
Published: September 2015

AbstractChanges in the security environment after the Cold War and decreasing number of armed conflicts in NATO member states lead these countries to a gradual reduction in military expenditure. However, new security threats that these countries faced at the beginning of the 21st century brought a massive growth of military expenditure especially in the USA which lead to significant deepening of disparities between the USA and European NATO member states. The aim of the article is to investigate disproportionality of burden sharing among 28 NATO members and via multidimensional statistic methods identify free-riding in Alliances. A model based on theory of the demand for military spending provides the basis for an investigation of the disparities (identified especially in the characteristics of the economic and security environment) in determinants influencing military expenditure. Finding suggest that the Alliance is not mainly an economically homogenous body and individual economies thus allocate a significantly different amount of GDP for the needs of the armed forces in dependence on political priorities of individual governments, public finances or overall economic condition of national economies. However, the results of the classification model reveal the fact that group of countries identified as core states of the “traditional” NATO member states (with above-average values of variables) do not allocate the long-term recommended amount of military expenditure of 2% of GDP. These countries are suspected of dangerous free-riding.
N,N′-Bis(benzoyl) adipic acid dihydrazide and talc: nucleating agents for poly(l-lactic acid)
Authors: Xue Bai , Guo Dan , Bao Jianjun 
Published: September 2015

Abstract
In this paper, high-heat-resistant polymeric composite products were prepared via the traditional melt blending process by incorporating N,N′-bis(benzoyl) adipic acid dihydrazide (BAAD) into poly(l-lactic acid) (PLLA), which acted as an organic nucleating agent. The heat distortion temperature (HDT) of the PLLA/BAAD composite samples was measured by an HDT apparatus, and a high value of 96.2°C was achieved at a BAAD loading fraction of 0.5 wt.%, whereas, at the same processing conditions, the HDT of PLLA/talc specimens reached a similar value at a talc content of 20 wt.%, which was much higher than the BAAD content. Differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray diffraction analyses were applied to determine the melting and crystallization behavior of the PLLA/BAAD blends. Polarized optical microscopy was used to observe the crystalline morphologies. Thermogravimetric analysis was employed to study the effect of BAAD on the thermal stability of PLLA. Measurement of the mechanical property confirmed that the addition of BAAD was beneficial to the enhancement of the mechanical properties of the resulting blends. However, the tensile strength of the PLLA/talc composites decreased with increasing weight fraction of talc.
Valorization of industrial by-products through bioplastic production: defatted rice bran and kraft lignin utilization
Authors: Klanwan Yanut , Kunanopparat Thiranan , Menut Paul , Siriwattanayotin Suwit 
Published: September 2015

Abstract
The objective of this study was to develop a bioplastic from industrial by-products. Commercial defatted rice bran (DRB) was extruded with 0–30% kraft lignin (KL) as a filler and 30% glycerol as a plasticizer. Firstly, the effect of extrusion temperature on the plasticized DRB’s processability was determined. Increasing the die extrusion temperature from 100°C to 150°C improved the extrudability by decreasing the die pressure and motor current. Subsequently, the effect of KL on plasticized DRB was studied. The addition of 10–30% KL improved DRB processability. The addition of 30% KL markedly lowered the die pressure in comparison to using a 150°C extrusion temperature. Moreover, KL addition decreased DRB viscosity determined by a capillary rheometer. These results were coherent with a decreased storage modulus in a rubber state and an increased tan δ height determined by a dynamic mechanical thermal analyzer (DMA). However, n values of DRB with 10–30% KL could not be explained by a simple mixing rule. This may be attributed to the interaction between DRB and KL, as shown by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectra. KL addition increased Young’s modulus and the glass transition temperature (T
g) of plasticized DRB. Therefore, blending DRB with KL is an effective way to improve polymer flowability at the processing temperature and mechanical properties at ambient temperature.
On “R” in phrasal compounds – a contextualist approach
Authors: Meibauer Jörg 
Published: September 2015

AbstractIn phrasal compounds of the type XP+Y, one can assume a relation “R” that holds between the head and the non-head just as in ordinary N+N compounds. The paper discusses the question how “R” should be understood. Three recent approaches, i.e., construction morphology, parallel architecture view, and indexicalism are discussed. It is argued that all approaches lack a pragmatic component which is necessary for modeling pragmatic inferencing with respect to phrasal compounds. Thus, an “unspecific meaning” approach to the semantics of phrasal compounds, together with contextualist views on pragmatic enrichment, is a serious alternative to the approaches discussed.
Phrasal vs. morphological compounds: Insights from Modern Greek and Turkish
Authors: Bağrıaçık Metin , Ralli Angela 
Published: September 2015

AbstractIn this paper, we compare Modern Greek nominal compounds to their Turkish counterparts and reveal that Modern Greek nominal compounds under investigation are morphological while Turkish ones are syntactically built. Based on this, we offer an explanation for the availability of phrasal compounds in Turkish but not in Modern Greek: phrase-level items can be involved in syntactic compounds, but not in morphological compounds involving solely morphological items. The study reveals that the locus of compound formation is not confined to a single module both cross-linguistically and within a language, but the locus of a specific type of compound in a language entails whether or not phrasal compounds with the same compound structure can also occur in that specific language.
Phrasal compounds in Turkish: Distinguishing citations from quotations
Authors: Göksel Aslı 
Published: September 2015

AbstractTo date, studies of phrasal compounds, most of which are on Germanic languages, have been inconclusive with respect to whether the non-heads are phrases or quotations. In this paper, I present syntactic, semantic, and prosodic evidence from a typologically different language, Turkish, to distinguish between the two types. I will show that what look like equally complex constructions turn out to differ radically in complexity and in terms of their internal structure; phrases that are sensitive to syntax versus quotations which are not, and head-complement relations versus type-token relations. I further discuss the structural implications of having phrasal units within morphological units, arguing that this is a natural phenomenon within frameworks where the relation between morphology and syntax is bidirectional.
Do Romance languages have phrasal compounds? A look at Italian
Authors: Bisetto Antonietta 
Published: September 2015

AbstractPhrasal compounds did not constitute a highly debated issue in Italian, apart from some sporadic observations (Ricca 2005) on peculiar compounds as, for example, V+N exocentric compounds likespazzaneve‘snowplough’ that admit NP constituents. This paper is devoted to the analysis of a group of N+NP constructions, found in the ItTenTen10 corpus, a corpus of 2.588.873.046 words investigated by means of the Sketch-Engine, with the purpose of establishing whether phrasal compounding is a phenomenon present in Italian too.
Personality trait
correlates of color
preference in schizophrenia
Authors: Tao Baiping , Xu Shaofang , Pan Xin , Gao Qianqian , Wang Wei 
Published: September 2015

Abstract
Background: The goal of the present study was to evaluate the color preferences of patients with schizophrenia
and their correlations with personality traits. Methodology: Sixty-three patients with schizophrenia and 59
healthy volunteers were asked to undertake the color preference and the Zuckerman-Kuhlman Personality
Questionnaire (ZKPQ) tests. Results: The healthy volunteers showed a greater preference for green but a lesser one
for brown compared to the patients with schizophrenia. Patients scored higher than the healthy volunteers on
the ZKPQ Neuroticism-Anxiety and Activity scales. Moreover, in patients, black preference ranking was associated
with the Neuroticism-Anxiety, whereas pink and orange preferences were negatively associated with Activity;
white preference correlated negatively with Sociability. Conclusions: Patients with schizophrenia preferred green
less but brown more, and displayed their personality correlates of these color preferences. These findings are
suggesting that patients with schizophrenia should be encouraged to be more exposed to bright colors such as
green and white, and less to dark colors such as black, during therapy and rehabilitation sessions.