bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Molby: Graphical Molecular Modeling Software with Integrated Ruby Interpreter
Authors: Nagata Toshi 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
Molby is graphical molecular modeling software that runs on Windows and Macintosh computers. It has useful features for coordination compounds such as built-in support for universal force field and metal–π bonds. Molby has an embedded Ruby interpreter that can be used for interactive numeric processing and extending the program.
H2 Sensing Mechanism of Pd-Loaded WO3 Nanoparticle Gas Sensors
Authors: Hua Zhongqiu , Yuasa Masayoshi , Kida Tetsuya , Yamazoe Noboru , Shimanoe Kengo 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
Neat and Pd-loaded WO3 sensors were fabricated from lamellar-structured nanoparticles. The sensing mechanism of hydrogen was investigated. Oxygen adsorption properties were studied through the resistive responses and TPD measurements. It was observed that oxygen adsorption was significantly enhanced by Pd loading from the viewpoint of p–n junction for PdO–WO3. In the presence of H2, the resistive response to oxygen for Pd-loaded WO3 was obviously different from that of neat WO3, which demonstrated a relatively weak response to oxygen. It was concluded that Pd loading not only promoted the sensor response but also made the sensing mechanism different from that of neat WO3. It was proposed that with Pd loading, the surface lattice oxygen near Pd sites was involved for the sensing process of H2.
Class, clothes, and co-creativity
Authors: Partington Angela 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
This article discusses the proliferation of class distinctions through the consumption of fashion, using the concept of co-creativity to further our understanding of the role of consumers in the production of newness and difference. Drawing on recent theories of identity and creativity, it is a contribution to the development of research methodologies adequate to the task of understanding fashion, by focusing on cross-media practices through which clothes/objects become meaningful, rather studying clothes within the confines of an object-based discipline (such as Dress History). It emphasizes creative production as the outcome of historically specific relationships between practitioners, objects/images, and consumers. The broader context for this discussion relates to current issues and debates around the creative economy’s need for a fusion of knowledge and skills from graduates who are comfortable working across the boundaries of established disciplines such as design and marketing.
Sporting hats and national symbolism: The Kangol beret and the London Olympic Games of 1948
Authors: Biddle-Perry Geraldine 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
This article explores the British Olympic Association’s adoption of the Kangol beret for both male and female athletes at the London Games of 1948. The Games represented a critical juncture in both Olympic and British political history. The article outlines the fashion historical development of the ‘Anglo-Basque’ beret as a context for examining how the beret came to function as the symbolic embodiment of shifting concepts of British sporting nationalism within the Olympic arena. In World War II the beret became synonymous with Lord Montgomery of Alamein (Monty), and by extension the fighting spirit of the British nation. The article questions to what extent the choice of the ‘Monty’ beret in London in 1948 can be seen as both a response to the Berlin Olympics in 1936 and the wider contemporary context of a nation at the crossroads between austerity and affluence, and new demands for wider democratic freedom and welfare reform.
Missiles, eroticism and fetishes
Authors: Lönnqvist Bo 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
This article addresses ideas about the origins of clothing in practice today. Clothing that conceals as protection, conceals mentally against shame and clothing that can be viewed as an aesthetic object. It examines the power of sexuality and erotic sexuality that has found a new means of expression and influence through men’s underwear. It explores language as an instrument for the exercise of power and the idea of protection and beauty as exemplified by men’s underwear in advertising.
Book Reviews
Authors: Martin Kathi , Cecil Anne , Golembuski Cynthia 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
Shanghai Street Style, Toni Johnson-Woods and Vicki Karaminas with Photography by Fung Chan (2013) Bristol: Intellect, 168 pp., ISBN: 9781841505381, Paperback, £15.95, $25
Shanghai Street Style, Toni Johnson-Woods and Vicki Karaminas with Photography by Fung Chan (2013) Bristol: Intellect, 168 pp., ISBN: 9781841505381, Paperback, £15.95, $25
Why Would Anyone Wear That? Fascinating Fashion Facts, Celia E. Stall-Meadows with Illustrations by Leslie Stall Widener (2013) Bristol: Intellect Ltd., 83 pp., ISBN 9781841507279, Paperback, £9.95, $18, €12
‘Oh, honey! It’s not so much the style, it’s what carrying it means’: Hermès bags and the transformative process
Authors: Boyd Annita 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
This article investigates the characteristics that define the suitability of certain characters in a number of film and television programmes to be consumers of Hermès prestige handbags. First, it examines the status of a Birkin or Kelly bag and how it is perceived to have transformative powers within the narrative, its impact upon its carrier’s own sense of identity and how it is read by others. Apart from signalling itself as an index of luxury, the bag may also trigger connotations of a suspicious sexual nature if carried by characters that do not have the means to purchase it, and by virtue of its inherent ability to conceal. Characters require a sophisticated knowledge and class in order to bear successfully the kind of distinction that Hermès represents. Second, it addresses the viewers of these programmes as highly informed and discerning consumers of images of Hermès bags. The ability to identify specific sizes, leathers and speculate upon the authenticity of the bag is remarkable, and can be considered as a particular kind of specialized and exclusive knowledge. These readings invite us to consider this accessory as something that exceeds its function as mere costuming or prop within the mise-en-scène, as the bag seems to have agency and at times overshadows the centrality of characters.
Dress and disaster: Fashioning creative responses to disaster
Authors: Rangel Valerie 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
In the aftermath of a disaster, much attention is given to the reconstruction efforts of architects, urban planners and non-profit agencies. However, very little is known about the role of the fashion industry and its contribution to disaster response and recovery efforts. To what extent do disasters prompt the fashion industry to address the needs of disaster victims? Does it compel them to reassess the creative potential of fashion? If so, what is the extent of their involvement and impact? In addressing the role of fashion in disaster, this article has three goals – the first, to understand the nature and effectiveness of creative responses to disaster; the second, to analyse consumer perception and attitudes towards disaster-related initiatives undertaken by the fashion industry; and finally, to discuss ways in which the fashion industry might aspire to contribute to the impacts of disaster in ways that are more meaningful and socially responsible.
Selling whose dream? A taxonomy of aspiration in fashion imagery
Authors: Barry Ben 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
Scholars and practitioners assume that women aspire to fashion photographs of idealized models. It is unknown, however, what makes a fashion image aspirational because previous researchers have not explored the various dimensions that evoke this concept. In this article, I share the development of a taxonomy that explains the evaluative criteria and image elements that elicit aspiration in fashion photographs based on data gathered in focus groups with 100 women. Findings reveal that women aspire to a fashion image according to their evaluations that it is honest, empowering and socially responsible. The models, creative direction and visual cues in the image trigger these three aspirational criteria. My research contributes the first taxonomy of aspiration in fashion photographs and to the enhancement of knowledge about consumer engagement with images. Industry professionals are encouraged to incorporate promotional photographs into their corporate social responsibility agenda and produce imagery that represents women’s diverse beauty and character alongside glamour and artistry.
Antecedents of consumer misbehaviour on Black Friday: A social responsibility view
Authors: Lennon Sharron J. , Lee Jaeha , Kim Minjeong , Johnson Kim K. P. 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
Consumer misbehaviour is non-normative behaviour in consumption situations and is a form of socially irresponsible behaviour motivated by self interest. Consumer misbehaviours have been widely reported on Black Friday (BF), the day after Thanksgiving in the US when retailers offer ‘doorbuster’ deals. Based on the exchange paradigm and the General Aggression Model (GAM), five hypotheses were developed and tested with structural equation modelling using data from BF shoppers (N=260). Results found that the presence of unpleasant fellow customers positively influenced perceptions of inequity, while crowding negatively influenced perceptions of inequity. Perceptions of crowding negatively affected consumer misbehaviour on BF, while the presence of unpleasant customers inflated consumer misbehaviour on BF. A positive relationship was found for perceptions of inequity on BF consumer misbehaviour. Both presence of unpleasant fellow customers and perceived crowding had significant indirect effects on BF consumer misbehaviour via perceptions of inequity. We show how BF misbehaviour is socially irresponsible and use a social responsibility framework to interpret results and suggest solutions that fairly balance the needs of all stakeholders.
The branding of sustainable fashion
Authors: Weiss Catharine , Trevenen Anne , White Tracy 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
The major focus of this article is to highlight the consumer’s understanding of sustainable practices in the context of fashion branding and how it relates to purchasing behaviour. My colleagues and I questioned 151 consumers through snowball surveys transmitted via social media to measure consumer receptiveness to sustainability as a marketing issue. As a result, we suggest there is potential value for both wholesale and retail companies to create sustainability standards and branding methods in order to highlight this important message; such efforts could include an industry-wide logo, trademark or rating system. While there are currently a multitude of sustainable business practices being employed, including corporate indexes, certification programmes, core value inclusion and advertising, these have not achieved a high level of visibility with the end consumer. Companies are spending millions on sustainable practices but are failing to communicate the message through industry-wide standards reflected in a simple product mark. Through this study we argue that a concerted educational campaign is needed to promote mainstream consumer awareness and adoption of sustainability standards. In addition, for the United States market, federal involvement may be necessary to help create acceptable benchmarks. The irony is that multiple studies have been done – some of which we later examine – showing that consumers may be ready to embrace branded sustainable products in the world of fashion. One question remains: are they willing to pay an additional price for something that can benefit the planet? Does the consumers’ conscience stop at their wallet? We posed these questions accordingly. The results of our study show that consumers do value products made using sustainable practices. Moreover, when asked if it made a big difference in their purchasing decisions, the answer was yes, as long as the price did not increase significantly. The conundrum was that many respondents we surveyed just did not seem to fully understand the meaning of sustainability. For that matter, there is also a great deal of confusion about the meaning of sustainability across the fashion industry: it is a complicated subject.
As a result, we recommend a threefold action plan for the fashion industry:
1. Convey and educate in an easy, transparent way what sustainability means for the consumer, clarifying the myriad of mixed meanings within the industry.
2. Consolidate and streamline industry standards and create federal benchmarks for measuring the sustainability of fashion manufacturing processes. This will prevent companies from ‘green-washing’ their products through trumped-up advertising.
3. Establish and publicize a standard sustainability logo, trademark or ranking system to provide consistent product labelling and allow consumers to choose sustainably manufactured products.
Folk author: Collaborations between folk artist and publisher, a Tara Books case study
Authors: Ramanathan Rathna 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
This article refers to a specific case study, i.e. collaborations between folk artists and an independent publisher in India – Tara Books – with the purpose of creating book narratives. Central to this article is the concept of the folk artist as author and illustrator as well as that of the publishing process as a community effort. The article begins by reflecting on popular definitions of folk art with the aim of providing an understanding of ‘the function of folk’ in the Indian context. Using examples of two titles – The London Jungle Book (2004) and Following my Paintbrush (2010) – on which this author has worked in the role of book designer, the article examines and illustrates with visual examples the roles and nature of collaboration between folk artist, publisher and book designer. It looks at the development of a folk-art book from concept origin through to completion. The article explores the challenges of working with folk art within the constraints of a commercial book market and queries what place folk art conventions have in the context of communication design.
The transatlantic romance of television studies and the ‘tradition of quality’ in Italian TV drama
Authors: Buonanno Milly 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
The starting point of the critical discourse developed in the article is the current celebration of (a certain kind of) American series, which having gained huge cultural and aesthetic cachet due to a set of generic features, have turned into the epitome of ‘quality TV’ and monopolize scholarly attention and investigation. In this connection, I make the claim that television studies are at risk of validating processes of unilateral canonization which end up overshadowing the range of different conceptions and traditions of quality that exist in different televisual cultures. The Italian case is emblematic of the role assumed by American television in supplying the touchstone against which the value of domestic TV drama is tested, appraised and placed in the cultural hierarchy of contemporary media art forms. The enthusiastic embrace of US quality TV within academic and intellectual circles has in fact entailed disregard and rejection of the peculiar ‘tradition of quality’ that Italian TV drama has built over the years on the grounds of a public service ethos.
Misuse of The Monument: The art of parkour and the discursive limits of a disciplinary architecture
Authors: Lamb Matthew D. 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
This article explores the emancipatory potential of misuse. Through the practice of parkour, I investigate misuse as a form of empowerment within entanglements of power demarcating acceptable uses of city space. I critically examine my experience practising parkour on Monument Circle in Indianapolis, Indiana. The research questions include, first, how can we define the misuse of space? What can the misuse of Monument Circle teach us about how architecture communicates the interests of power? Can parkour be a practice of empowerment that challenges spatial expectations of use? Foucault’s discussion of disciplinary power theoretically frames the understanding of discourse, power and the use of misuse. Lefebvre’s theorizations on the production of space ground an understanding of the body in and around architecture. Offered here is an analysis of parkour’s misuse of architecture and its challenge of disciplinary power codified and maintained in the built environment.
Re-enchanting the city: Hybrid space, affect and playful performance in geocaching, a location-based mobile game
Authors: Klausen Maja 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
This article presents an empirical analysis of the location-based mobile game (LBMG) geocaching – a worldwide scavenger hunt enabled by Web 2.0 and global positioning system (GPS) technology. The analysis is informed by a non-representational approach through which the urban space where the game is played and the use and performance of information and communication technologies (ICTs) are grasped as mutually constitutive processes. This approach sheds new light on the phenomenon of geocaching as it prioritizes the embodied performances through which the player relates the hybrid game space with the contingency and affective potential of urban space. This relation is partly constituted through the notion of a ‘player gaze’, through which the player appropriates his/her surroundings. The analysis also demonstrates how the game expands the edges of the ‘magic circle’ of play, thereby merging the ‘serious’ spaces of everyday life with the playfulness related to the game. Previous studies on geocaching have mainly focused on the sharing of places and ‘local knowledge’ within the game, and thus paying little, if any, attention to the role of the player and the ways in which he/she enhances the playability of the game through playful improvisations invoked by affective encounters with non-players. The article suggests that these embodied performances intertwine with the urban fabric and technological affordances, thereby sparking a potential ‘re-enchantment’ of the urban space. The analysis draws on a qualitative fieldwork conducted from 2011 to 2012 amongst practitioners of geocaching in Copenhagen, Denmark.
Legionnaires, or the post-dramatic, political theatre, Latvian style, goes on Legionnaires - directed by Valters Silis, produced by Theatre Gertrudes ielas teatris (Latvia), Turteatern (Sweden), Kokoteatteri (Finland) - against the background of a 'punching with tenderness' political theatre wave
Authors: Stefanova Kalina 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
This article is an attempt at an introduction of the Latvian show Legionnaires on several levels: as an extraordinary theatre production in its own right, as part of the Baltic theatre phenomenon, and as part of the New Wave of political theatre aimed at looking inwards in search of a change in the bigger world and using love not only as a springboard but as the 'thing' imbuing its main means of expression as well - in brief, a theatre that prefers 'punching with tenderness' (according to a phrase by Alvis Hermanis). A daring claim is made that this type of theatre may, to a great extent, have Latvian roots, with Hermanis's Long Life as its first excellent sample of world-wide fame.
Theatre - power - subject: On Dragan Živadinov's Elizabethan Trilogy
Authors: Anđelković Bojan 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
The text offers a philosophical reflection on the cycle of five performances that form the Elizabethan Trilogy project (2008-2013) by director Dragan Živadinov. By introducing four conceptual pairs - theatre and sovereignty, words and things, the subject and the mask, and difference and repetition - it also attempts to reflect on Živadinov's entire opus and on the meaning of his theatre. At the centre of attention in the theatre of repetition, which is opposed to the theatre of representation, there is the relation between theatre, sovereignty and the subject; the author of this text tries to shed light on this relation by drawing on Antonin Artaud's concept of the theatre of cruelty and possible connections between theatre and the philosophies of Friedrich Nietzsche, Michel Foucault and Gilles Deleuze.
Walking as choreography and the city as scenography 'Walk the City' and 'The Unnoticed'
Authors: Dobovšek Zala 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
With their interventions, the art projects 'Walk the City' and 'The Unnoticed' penetrated the core of urban environment and selected the centre of Ljubljana as the stage for their performances. Both projects bring art into a public space, where anonymous, coincidental and 'undirected' passers-by, knowingly or not, become viewers and at times even participants within the performance. Regardless of the numerous possibilities, the two art interventions will be primarily looked at in terms of the conceptualization of space and the diverse definitions of walking, while we will lean upon the theories of Michel de Certeau. We will also look at the interventions through the perspective of the ground plan, which will lead to a new understanding and meaning.
Brouillon: Sketches of moving with others
Authors: Theodoridou Danae 
Published: May 2014

Abstract
The article examines the project 'Musée de la danse'/'Brouillon - An exhibition in motion' as an experiment on the innovative forms that our 'new institutions' could have according to Paolo Virno. It argues that through its 'sketches' of movement and the spatial and temporal qualities involved in them, Brouillon ('sketch' in English) constructed forms that remained constantly open and on the move, while registering a pass from the utopian togetherness of the united 'we' that 'moves together freely' of the 1960s, to today's ethics of 'doing a project with others' (Laermans). In this way the project constituted an insightful proposition of dance regarding alternative production and curation models, and the way we can meet, work and move with others today.