bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Fashion Design: The Complete Guide
Authors: Hopkins John 
Published: September 2016

Fashion Design: The Complete Guide is a modern and stylish introduction to working within the fashion industry today. Catwalk images show the latest trends and contributions from industry professionals span centres of fashion across London, Paris and New York. A fabulous selection of images and plenty of suggestions of further resources make this a useful and exciting springboard into a successful career in fashion. This behind-the-scenes guide to the study of fashion is for current and aspiring designers, fashion lovers and students. It provides an all-inclusive overview of the entire design process, covering the history of fashion, fashion illustration, colour and fabrics, the journey from concept to finished garment, research processes, presenting a collection and professional practice. It is generously illustrated throughout with images from famous designers, includes promising graduate work and showcases original artwork from a variety of studios.
The new essential text for aspiring fashion designers, Fashion Design: The Complete Guide is filled with practical advice at every stage, including help with portfolios, personal promotion and career opportunities. With an attractive and colourful layout, every chapter also includes interviews, discussion questions, activities and further reading. The book is illustrated with beautiful examples of work from both established and up-and-coming designers, including Alexander McQueen, Viktor & Rolf, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, Anna Sui, Jonathan Saunders, Mary Katrantzou and Elie Saab, and pictures of style icons such as Tilda Swinton and Gwen Stefani.
Sourcing and Selecting Textiles for Fashion
Authors: Cadigan Erin 
Published: September 2016

Written with the innovative fashion student in mind, Sourcing and Selecting Textiles for Fashion gives a full overview of the current textile market and shows how to apply this knowledge when creating a fashion collection.
Following a brief look at the historical growth of fashion textiles in industry and culture, the book explores the manufacturing, design, sourcing and end-use of fashion textiles. Natural and man-made fibres are discussed along with current woven, knit and non-woven production methods. A variety of industrial and custom surface design techniques including dye, print, embellishment and fabric manipulation are covered. Trend, inspiration, colour, creating the collection and how to enhance design through textile choice and surface design are included. A perspective of current innovation and sustainability is offered in each area.
Colour photographs, illustrations and designer spotlights supplement informative text throughout the book, and the text includes a bonus section of interviews with designers at different levels of their career and marketplace, focusing on how they select and source fabrics and apply them to their designs.
Developing a Fashion Collection
Authors: Renfrew Elinor , Renfrew Colin 
Published: September 2016

Fully updated with new interviews and inspiring images, the 2nd edition of Developing a Fashion Collection covers everything the fashion student needs to know before designing their own collections.
Developing a Fashion Collection focuses on the process of designing a collection, and explores different types of research, fabric sourcing, the key roles within a design team and the many sources of inspiration available to designers. Different market levels from ready-to-wear to online shopping are covered in-depth, and are given real-world context through insightful interviews with practising contemporary designers. Collections for niche markets, including knitwear, childrenswear and footwear are also discussed.
The 2nd edition of Developing a Fashion Collection features interviews with high-profile international contemporary fashion designers, including Sister by Sibling, Holly Fulton, Todd Lynn, thefuturelaboratory, People Tree, Leutton Postle and Insley & Nash.
The Fashion Designer’s Sketchbook
Authors: Rothman Sharon 
Published: September 2016

The Fashion Designer's Sketchbook is a must-have resource for both fashion students and practising designers who wish to learn new ways of generating design ideas in order to create successful fashion collections, and who wish to develop their own creative aesthetic. It demonstrates how the fashion design sketchbook serves as a crucial creative tool for professional development - and a valuable portfolio of design work to present to potential employers.
This book identifies four distinct types of creative journal, each representing a different phase in the design process: the inspiration diary, the working journal, the presentation journal and the design log; and it explores how one develops out of the other, each stage in the idea generation process moving the process forward organically from discovery, to direction, to design development and delivery.
Designing with Smart Textiles
Authors: Kettley Sarah 
Published: September 2016

If you want to understand, and be a part of, the creative revolution in materials design, then Designing with Smart Textiles is the complete toolkit you need to get started.
Beginning by introducing the terminology and key applications, the book goes on to examine the key design processes needed to develop interactive textile design concepts, with detailed projects and examples to help you apply these approaches in your own practice.
Case studies and interviews with innovative designers introduce you to different artistic and technological practices, and demonstrate how world-leading researchers are creating new technologies, yarns, fabrics, and applications. Practitioners share unique insights into their processes, and "Tech Tips" so you can build on their research in your own work.
Apparel Merchandising
Authors: Rosenau Jeremy A. , Wilson David L. 
Published: September 2016

Apparel Merchandising: The Line Starts Here analyzes the evolution and development of the merchandising function in branded apparel companies and retail private label apparel. It describes today’s challenges for both apparel manufacturers and retailers in meeting the consumer’s demands for the right products at the right prices - and at the right times. Approached from the perspective of the apparel product manager, Rosenau and Wilson cover men’s and women’s sportswear and activewear and children’s wear in both domestic and international markets.
The text follows the evolution of the merchandising function with emphasis on product development and production efficiency, highlighting the philosophies of industry executives and the effective integration of the merchandising, marketing, and manufacturing functions along the way. The third edition emphasizes the increased importance of retailer’s private brands, explores how companies apply technology to all facets of product development and supply chain management, and addresses the impact of social media on both retailers and apparel manufacturers.
Apparel Quality Lab Manual
Authors: Bubonia Janace E. 
Published: September 2016

This student lab manual reinforces the chapter
content and lecture material from Apparel Quality, but may also be used as a
standalone product in conjunction with another apparel quality textbook. With more
than 30 hands-on lab activities and projects to enhance learning, the lab manual
offers a greater understanding of quality issues that arise with apparel production
and end use. Designed for courses that emphasize textile testing or offer a
laboratory component, Apparel Quality Lab Manual includes supply lists; extensive
reference tables; assignments for analyzing products, testing and evaluating
materials and garments; project sheets for product comparison testing; worksheets to
record data; directions for mounting specimens after testing; and templates for
cutting specimens.
Students will be actively engaged in their
learning and participate in determining the quality level of apparel products,
allowing them to simulate how apparel products are analyzed in the industry.
Functional Clothing Design
Authors: Watkins Susan M. , Dunne Lucy E. 
Published: September 2016

Functional Clothing Design is a book about how and why clothing works. This interdisciplinary text introduces new ways to look at the human body, the environment and clothing and to explore the relationships between them by looking at the ways clothing achieves goals such as protecting the body, increasing health and safety, improving a workers efficiency on the job or increasing body function.
Watkins and Dunne present technical material using clear, simple language that can be readily understood by beginning design students with no science or engineering background. Building on the groundbreaking text by Watkins, Clothing: The Portable Environment, this text covers a full range of factors involved in designing functional clothing: protection from thermal, impact and other environmental hazards; enhancing movement and visibility and increasing body function with smart clothing; designing clothing for people with handicaps and designing protective clothing for groups such as the military, who face multiple hazards.
Functional Clothing Design focuses on the full range of activities needed to develop functional clothing from analysis of user needs to choosing appropriate materials to design and design evaluation. The text includes case studies throughout as well as new content on smart textiles and all the latest developments in wearable technology. Designers and others seeking clothing solutions to problems in many fields will find a common language linking a number of disciplines through which they can explore both problems and solutions.
The Why Of The Buy
Authors: Rath Patricia Mink , Bay Stefani , Petrizzi Richard , Gill Penny 
Published: September 2016

"Consumer behavior affects the fashion industry-in design, production, merchandising and promotion at all levels-as much as it affects retailing. The Second Edition of Why of the Buy: Consumer Behavior and Fashion Marketing continues to address how psychology, sociology, and culture all influence the how, what, when, where, and why of the buy. The unifying element of this text is its presentation of current knowledge of consumer behavior applied to the fields of fashion and design in an enthusiastic and relevant way that will attract and engage students.
New to this Edition
—New What Do I Need to Know About …? feature lists the objectives of each chapter, providing a roadmap for study
—New Chapter 11, Social Media and the Fashion Consumer, explores how the relationship between marketers, retailers, and consumers is aided by social media and the internet
—New discussion of Omnichannel retailing in Ch. 13"
Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics
Authors: Cole Julie 
Published: September 2016

With hundreds of step-by-step illustrated instructions and a user-friendly, stay-flat format, Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics provides emerging fashion designers with comprehensive information on how to draft patterns for popular cut-and-sew stretch knit fabrics such as jersey and knits with spandex. After covering the basics of knits and techniques for gauging stretch capacity, Julie Cole introduces a unique, simplified approach to drafting slopers using hip and top foundations. She then provides information on converting, drafting, grading, and reducing patterns for proper fit in four categories of stretch. The book proceeds to drafting slopers and patterns for tops, dresses, jackets, sweaters, cardigans, skirts, pants, lingerie, swimwear, and activewear.
Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics is ideal for students with basic or intermediate design, patternmaking, and sewing skills for any course in which students design and draft patterns for knits; or courses that incorporate both knits and woven fabrics.
Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear
Authors: Cabrera Roberto , Antoine Denis 
Published: September 2016

Since its first publication, Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear has been the authoritative resource for custom hand tailoring production. This new edition focuses on updating these timeless construction techniques through extensive use of all new photography and digital illustrations to enhance the clarity of each process. The enduring art of tailoring and the nature of bespoke tailoring processes means that the techniques presented in the first edition remain as relevant for today’s designers as ever.
The new edition is updated with information on measuring, alternative approached in use today and all new photographs and illustrations. It also includes a brief overview of contemporary tailoring and the identifying key components of luxury tailoring from Britain, Italy and the Unites States. This introduction also familiarizes the reader with ways in which traditional production methods have been used in the development of luxury ready-to-wear men’s tailoring.
The text is ideal for students with basic design, patternmaking and sewing skills of at least an intermediate level for courses including Tailoring Techniques, Menswear Design, Couture Sewing, Intermediate or Advanced Construction Techniques, Costume Construction and Fashion Design Studios.
Sky camera geometric calibration using solar observations
Authors: Urquhart Bryan , Kurtz Ben , Kleissl Jan 
Published: September 2016

Abstract. A camera model and associated automated calibration procedure for stationary daytime sky imaging cameras is presented. The specific modeling and calibration needs are motivated by remotely deployed cameras used to forecast solar power production where cameras point skyward and use 180° fisheye lenses. Sun position in the sky and on the image plane provides a simple and automated approach to calibration; special equipment or calibration patterns are not required. Sun position in the sky is modeled using a solar position algorithm (requiring latitude, longitude, altitude and time as inputs). Sun position on the image plane is detected using a simple image processing algorithm. The performance evaluation focuses on the calibration of a camera employing a fisheye lens with an equisolid angle projection, but the camera model is general enough to treat most fixed focal length, central, dioptric camera systems with a photo objective lens. Calibration errors scale with the noise level of the sun position measurement in the image plane, but the calibration is robust across a large range of noise in the sun position. Calibration performance on clear days ranged from 0.94 to 1.24 pixels root mean square error.
O TRATAMENTO DA CULPABILIDADE ANTES DA FORMAÇÃO DA DOGMÁTICA PENAL E O SURGIMENTO DA PRESUNÇÃO DO CONHECIMENTO DE LEI
Authors: Filho Marco Aurélio Pinto Florêncio 
Published: September 2016

<p>O presente artigo tem a pretensão de analisar o desenvolvimento histórico da culpabilidade no direito penal, bem como o princípio da presunção do conhecimento de lei. Assim, foi realizada uma abordagem da culpabilidade e da presunção do conhecimento de lei nas sociedades primitivas, na Grécia antiga, no Direito Romano, para, posteriormente, analisar-se a Alta Idade Média e a Baixa Idade Média, para, enfim, analisar referidos institutos no direito germânico. </p>
Do leaf-mining Nepticulidae occur in the natural but so threatened Andean Polylepis forests?
Authors: Stonis Jonas R. , Diškus Arūnas , Remeikis Andrius , Karsholt Ole 
Published: September 2016

Despite the fact that Polylepis forests constitute the natural but threatened vegetation in much of the high Andes and are very important for their ecological functions, no leaf-mining Nepticulidae (Insecta: Lepidoptera, Nepticuloidea) associated with Polylepis Ruiz & Pav. as a host-plant have been recorded previously. In this paper, for the first time, we report on four discoveries of Polylepis-feeding Nepticulidae species in Ecuador and Peru. From the high Andes of Peru, we describe a new species Stigmella polylepiella Diškus & Stonis, sp. nov., whose larvae throughout all instars are leaf-miners in leaves of Polylepis racemosa Ruiz & Pav. and spin a unique shaped cocoon inside the leaf-mine. We also provide illustrations and short descriptions of male genitalia and leaf-mines of two other new Stigmella Schrank species, whose larvae are leaf-miners on Polylepis pauta Hieron. in Ecuador; these two taxa are documented but left unnamed because they are described from dissected developed pupae, not emerged adults. Additionally, we document leaf-mines of an unknown Nepticulidae taxon associated with Polylepis racemosa in the Peruvian Andes.
Cell electrotransfection and viability dependence on electrotransfection and viability dependence on electoporation medium
Authors: Ruzgys Paulius , Šatkauskas Saulius 
Published: September 2016

Electroporation is a physical method that uses electric fields to increase membrane permeability. The method is widely used for intracellular drug and gene delivery. In this study we aimed to investigate the importance of the medium for efficiency of cell electrotransfection and viability following the application of electric field pulses. The experiments were performed using 2 different cell lines: Chinese hamster ovary (CHO) and Chinese hamster lung fibroblast (DC-3F) and 2 different electroporation media: SMEM (medium conductivity equal to 1.3 S/m) and laboratory-made low-conductivity (0.1 S/m) electroporation (EP) medium. Cells suspended in these media were supplemented with plasmid (10 µg/ml) encoding luciferase and then were treated with 1, 5, or 10 high-voltage (1200 V/cm, 100 µs, at 1 Hz) pulses. Transfection efficiency was determined by luciferase activity 24 h after cell treatment, while cell viability was determined by clonogenic assay. Results showed significant differences between cell lines and used electroporation media. CHO transfection was higher when electroporation was performed in low conductivity EP medium. Low transfection efficiency in SMEM medium resulted from low viability. In contrast, transfection efficiency of DC-3F cells was higher in SMEM. Possible mechanisms governing these differences are discussed.
Borrelia burgdorferi sensu lato genospecies in Ixodes ricinus ticks feeding on passerine birds in southern Norway
Authors: Radzijevskaja Jana , Rosef Olav , Matulaitytė Vesta , Paulauskas Algimantas 
Published: September 2016

Birds are increasingly considered important in the global dispersal of tick-borne pathogens. The purpose of this study was to investigate the prevalence of Borrelia burgdorferi sensu lato genospecies in Ixodes ricinus ticks collected on passerine birds from two ornithological stations (Jomfruland and Lista) in southern Norway. In both sampling sites a total of 608 (109 larvae and 499 nymphs) of immature ticks were collected from 157 infested birds representing 26 species. The presence of B. burgdorferi s.l. DNA in ticks was tested using direct PCR amplification of the ospA gene, localized on lp-54 plasmid in B. burgdorferi s.l. genome. Twenty one out of 157 infested (13%) birds carried B. burgdorferi s.l. infected Ixodes ricinus ticks. B. burgdorferi s.l. DNA was detected in 19.7% of the tick samples. In total, 6.4% of larvae (7/109) and 10% of nymphs (50/499) were positive. The vast majority of infected ticks were found on blackbird (Turdus merula). The most frequent genospecies was B. garinii (85.5%), followed by B. afzelii (9.0%) and B. valaisiana (5.5%). Five different B. garinii genotypes were identified. Our findings showed that the blackbirds may support the circulation and spread of B. garinii and B. valaisiana. B. garinii was not detected in questing ticks from investigated locations. B. afzelii genospecies, however, dominated in questing ticks, rodents and ticks from rodents.
Investigation of foliar application of nano-micronutrientfertilizers and nano-titanium dioxide on some traits of barley
Authors: Janmohammadi Mohsen , Sabaghnia Naser , Dashti Shahryar , Nouraein Mojtaba 
Published: September 2016

Nanofertilizers are new products which contain readily available nutrients in the nanoscale range and are preferred largely due to their efficiency. To investigate the effects of micronutrient nanofertilizers (iron and zinc) as F factor and nano-titanium dioxide (nano-TiO2) solution as n factor on yield performance and some morphologic traits of barley, a field experiment was carried out with treating with chelated nanoscale zinc oxide (nano-ZnO) and ferric oxide (nano-Fe2O3) suspensions during three phonological stages. The treatment combination by trait (TT) biplot was used for two-way dataset as various treatment combinations (Fn) with multiple traits. The GT biplot explained 83% of the total variation of the standardized data. The polygon view of TT showed five vertex treatment combinations as F1n1, F1n2, F2n2, F3n1, and F3n2. Therefore, it seems that F3n1 treatment combination had the highest values for all of the days to maturity, grain yield, straw yield, harvest index, spike length, number of fertile tillers, and grain weight per plant traits. The most prominent relations of tester-view biplot were: a strong positive association between days to maturity and straw yield and among grain yield, harvest index and spike length, while there was a near zero correlation of the number of tillers per plants with days to maturity and straw yield. It can be concluded that TiO2 nanoparticles and nano-micronutrient fertilizers (iron nano-chelate and zinc nano-chelate) could increase yield and yield components of barley. Our findings suggest that the foliar application of nanoparticles resulted in sustainable and high crop production, and among six treatment combinations, F3n2 (zinc nano-chelate with 2000 ppm nano-TiO2) indicated the best performance for most of the measured traits of barley.
Ni rojos ni ateos: las difíciles relaciones entre la España franquista y el exilio argentino
Authors: Martínez Rus Ana 
Published: September 2016

RESUMEN: En este artículo se abordan las difíciles relaciones editoriales entre la España de Franco y el exilio argentino debido a la censura. La industria editorial argentina se desarrolló publicando los originales y traducciones prohibidas en la Península y con la colaboración de profesionales del libro y autores exiliados. Estas obras llegaban con notables obstáculos en pequeñas cantidades y para un público muy reducido. ABSTRACT: This study approaches the difficult editorial relationships between Franco's Spain and the Argentine exile because of censorship. Argentina's publishing industry developed the originals and translations prohibited in Spain and in collaboration with book professionals and exiled authors. These books came with significant obstacles in small quantities and for a very small audience. KEYWORD PUBLISHING, ARGENTINA, FRANCO DICTATORSHIP, LOSADA