bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Pathways between depression, substance use and multiple sex partners among Northern and Indigenous young women in the Northwest Territories, Canada: results from a cross-sectional survey
Authors: Logie Carmen H , Lys Candice , Okumu Moses , Leone Cristina 
Published: October 2017

ObjectivesSexual and mental health disparities exist in the Northwest Territories (NWT) compared with other Canadian regions. STI rates are 10-fold higher, and youth suicide rates double the Canadian average. Scant research has examined associations between mental and sexual health among youth in the NWT. The study objective was to explore pathways from depression to multiple sex partners (MSP) among young women in the NWT, Canada.MethodsWe implemented a cross-sectional survey in 2015–2016 with a venue-based recruitment sample of young women aged 13–17 attending secondary schools in 17 NWT communities. We conducted path analysis to test a conceptual model examining associations between depression and a history of MSP, examining substance use and peer support as mediators.ResultsParticipants (n=199; mean age: 13.8, SD: 1.27) mostly identified were Indigenous (n=154; 77.4%) and one-fifth (n=39; 20.5%) were sexually diverse/non-heterosexual. Almost two-thirds (n=119; 63.3%) reported depression symptoms. One-quarter (n=53; 26.6%) were currently dating, and 16.1% (n=32) reported a lifetime history of >1 sex partner (classified as having MSP). There was no direct effect between depression and MSP (β=0.189, p=0.087, 95% CI 0.046 to 0.260). Depression had a direct effect on substance use (β=0.023, p<0.050, 95% CI 0.118 to 0.500), and an indirect effect on MSP through substance use (β=0.498, SE=0.10, p<0.001, 95% CI 0.141 to 0.280). Depression was associated with lower peer support (β=−0.168, p<0.010, 95% CI −0.126 to 0.280); peer support was not associated with MSP (β=−0.158, p=0.130, 95% CI −0.126 to 0.001).ConclusionThis research is among the first to identify mental health factors associated with STI vulnerability among young women in the NWT. Findings demonstrate the importance of addressing depression and substance use in sexual health interventions in Northern contexts.
Population-level impact of infant 10-valent pneumococcal conjugate vaccination on adult pneumonia hospitalisations in Finland
Authors: Okasha Omar , Rinta-Kokko Hanna , Palmu Arto A , Ruokokoski Esa , Jokinen Jukka , Nuorti J Pekka 
Published: October 2017

IntroductionLimited data are available on population-level herd effects of infant 10-valent pneumococcal conjugate vaccine (PCV10) programmes on pneumonia. We assessed national trends in pneumococcal and all-cause pneumonia hospitalisations in adults aged ≥18 years, before and after infant PCV10 introduction in 2010.MethodsMonthly hospitalisation rates of International Statistical Classification of Diseases, 10th revision (ICD-10)-coded primary discharge diagnoses compatible with pneumonia from 2004–2005 to 2014–2015 were calculated with population denominators from the population register. Trends in pneumonia before and after PCV10 introduction were assessed with interrupted time-series analysis. Rates during the PCV10 period were estimated from adjusted negative binomial regression model and compared with those projected as continuation of the pre-PCV10 trend. All-cause hospitalisations were assessed for control purposes.ResultsBefore PCV10, the all-cause pneumonia rate in adults aged ≥18 years increased annually by 2.4%, followed by a 4.7% annual decline during the PCV10 period. In 2014–2015, the overall all-cause pneumonia hospitalisation rate was 109.3/100 000 (95% CI 96.5 to 121.9) or 15.4% lower than the expected rate. A significant 6.7% decline was seen in persons aged ≥65 years (131.5/100 000), which translates to 1456 fewer pneumonia hospitalisations annually. In comparison, hospitalisations other than pneumonia decreased by 3.5% annually throughout the entire study period.ConclusionThese national data suggest that herd protection from infant PCV10 programme has reversed the increasing trend and substantially decreased all-cause pneumonia hospitalisations in adults, particularly the elderly.
From ‘Blue and White Porcelain’ to ‘Island’s Sunrise’: Young audience perceptions of Chineseness and Taiwaneseness in Taiwan’s popular music
Authors: Lin Chen-Yu , Um Haekyung 
Published: October 2017

Abstract
This article explores how Chineseness and Taiwaneseness are constructed in Taiwan’s popular music and the ways in which young audiences in Taiwan make sense of the music to which they listen in their everyday lives. Focusing on two songs, Jay Chou’s ‘Blue and White Porcelain’ (a China Wind pop song in Mandarin Chinese) and Fire Ex’s ‘Island’s Sunrise’ (an indie rock song sung in Taiwanese Hokkien), an analysis of the lyrics, styles and settings identifies the textual and contextual characteristics that shape and signify their Chineseness and Taiwaneseness. In-depth interviews with their 18–25-year-old audience and several music industry workers were conducted in Taipei to understand how these young audiences reflect on their experiences and identities in relation to these songs. Arguably, popular music can be implicated in the politics of identity through performing and listening. Constant negotiations of Chineseness and Taiwaneseness are taking place in both the creation and the consumption of music, thereby Taiwaineseness and Chineseness can be seen as a continuum rather than a dichotomy as they are not mutually exclusive in their historical contexts, but rather are two sets of ever-changing narratives. The usefulness of ethnographic methods in this study should be noted as the diverse personal experiences and views voiced in the interviews illustrate clearly how the dichotomy between the two is an over-simplification.
All under heaven KANO: The politics of nostalgia and the making of a new Taiwanese identity in Wei Te-sheng’s Taiwan-Japan trilogy
Authors: Green Frederik H. 
Published: October 2017

Abstract
This article explores the highly contested topic of nostalgia for the Japanese colonial period in contemporary Taiwanese popular culture and the ways in which colonial nostalgia participates in contemporary identity politics in Taiwan. By analysing three of Wei Desheng’s recent movies that engage in different ways with aspects of the colonial past, this article illustrates how the creative use of nostalgia helps to challenge certain cultural and political narratives that have hitherto dominated discourses of identity in Taiwan. Focusing in particular on Wei’s baseball period-drama KANO, this study shows that nostalgia in Taiwanese cinema is not a singular trope whereby the bygone colonial era is uncritically eulogized, but a complex cultural practice through which issues such as Taiwan’s position in a globalizing economy, a new emphasis on diversity and multi-culturalism, and finally contemporary politics vis-à-vis mainland China are negotiated. The colonial past, far from being a stable, monolithic historical memory, thus constitutes a constantly shifting discursive space in which questions of national identity can be addressed from a number of angles.
From visual fantasies to bodily trajectories: The insular epistemology of around-the-island journeys in Taiwan cinema
Authors: Jessie Ssu-Fang Liu 
Published: October 2017

Abstract
Through the lens of the around-the-island journey, this study articulates the geopolitical and sensory turns in contemporary Taiwan, inspecting how the new modality of feelings connotes different political declarations and epistemological paradigms from those in the past. From the Qing Empire, through the Japanese colonial period and to the early martial law period, the island of Taiwan was visually discovered and imagined by exterior political regimes. These foreign travellers’ around-the-island journeys ‘virtualized’ the geographical knowledge through visually syndicating the island and the suzerainties’ political centre into a single entity: either prolonging it as the extended territory of imperial Japan or conflating it with the continent of China. However, the current fetish of around-the-island trips arising in the 2000s represents a tendency of bypassing such visual domination and instead demands a traveller’s poignant bodily engagement and sensory explorations to ‘actualize’ the material knowledge of the island. Through comparing around-the-island movies in the martial and post martial law periods, this study examines how insular epistemology is produced and national identity is generated in sensorium cinema.
The Chinese animation blockbuster and Lotus Lantern (1999)
Authors: Chen Shaopeng 
Published: October 2017

Abstract
This article focuses on the Chinese animated film Lotus Lantern (1999), which gains importance in the history of Chinese animation by exploring the possibilities of the domestic animation blockbuster. This article thus provides a view of cinema animation as an important subcategory of Chinese popular culture. The findings of this study can be divided into three parts. First, Lotus Lantern was created under particular historical circumstances; the film undertook two historic missions: one is to resist the pressure from Hollywood competitors and the other is to revitalize Chinese-language animated films. Second, Lotus Lantern inherits and updates the Chinese iconography through the refiguration of classic cartoon figure Sun Wukong, which indicates a more market-oriented and audience-oriented trend in animation creation. Finally, this film borrows Hollywood iconography and techniques for the purpose of replicating Hollywood’s blockbuster practice and creating China’s own animated blockbuster.
Review Article
Authors: Wang Yi-Huei 
Published: October 2017

Abstract
This paper seeks to read literature as ‘form’ to disrupt the history-based perspective in Taiwanese literature. Shawna Yang Ryan’s Green Island (2016) candidly grapples with the Taiwan’s hidden history from the February 28 Incident to the White Terror Period. While Green Island uncovers the unofficial history during Taiwan’s undemocratic years, it is more far-reaching than a mere historical fiction. In fact, Green Island takes a progressive move beyond the legacy of history dominated by nationalists, historians and authoritative discourse. In doing so, Ryan utilizes the fictional device – the unnamed, first-person female narrative ‘I’ to destabilize the patriarchal system of macro-history. By demonstrating a woman’s life experience from her childhood to being a mother, from living in Taiwan to the United States, Green Island shows us how literature works as ‘form’ to negotiate history with individual story, political milieu with personal choices. This paper claims that Green Island dissolves the stable foundation of historical discourse via activating women’s agency through the narrative in post-colonial Taiwan.
Reviews
Authors: Lee Min Joo , Massaccesi Cristina , Taylor-Jones Kate 
Published: October 2017

Abstract
Understanding the Korean Wave
What are the Differences between American and Korean TV Drama Series? TV Drama Production Environment in America and Korea, Konshik Yu (2013) Paju: Hanul Books, 295 pp., ISBN: 9788946055773, softcover, W20000
Hallyu in Southeast Asia: East Asian Hallyu based on Interviews with Locals, Ik Ki Kim and Hyun Jin Im (2014) Gwachun: Zininzin, 166 pp., ISBN: 9788963471761, softcover, W11000
Hallyu and the Transformations of Asian Pop Culture, Wonho Jang, Ik Ki Kim and Jung Eun Song (2014) Seoul: Purungil Books, 276 pp., ISBN: 9788962912630, softcover, W20000
Introduction to Hallyuology, Jang Soon Park (2014) Seoul: Publishing Company Sun, 367 pp., ISBN: 9788963124803, softcover, W20000
The Soul of Anime: Collaborat ive Creat ivity and Japan’s Media Success Story, IAN CONDRY (2013) Durham and London: Duke University Press, 256 pp., ISBN: 9780822353942, p/bk, £19.99
The Aesthetics and Affects of Cuteness, Joshua Paul Dale, Joyce Goggin, Julia Leyda, Anthony P. McIntyre and Diane Negra (eds) (2016) London and New York: Routledge University Press, 300 pp., ISBN: 1138998761, p/bk, £28.99
Book Reviews
Authors: Anders Ellen , Loranger David , Martin Kathi , Yanofsky Anna 
Published: October 2017

Abstract
Philosophical Perspectives on Fashion, Giovanni MAtteucci and STEFANO Marino (eds) (2017) London: Bloomsbury, 208 pp., ISBN: 9781474237482, p/bk, $29.95
Cult Media, Fandom, and Textiles: Handicrafting as Fan Art, Brigid Cherry (2016) London: Bloomsbury, 199 pp., ISBN: 9781474215152, p/bk, $85.00
Fabric of Vision: Dress and Drapery in Painting, Anne Hollander and Foreword by Valerie Steele ([2002] 2006) London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 208 pp., ISBN 9781474251648, p/bk, $35.96
The History of Fashion Journalism, Kate Nelson Best (2017) London and New York: Bloomsbury Academic, 304 pp., ISBN: 9781474279727, p/bk, $19.99
How stout women were left out of high fashion: An early twentieth-century perspective
Authors: Keist Carmen N. 
Published: October 2017

Abstract
Karl Lagerfeld, head designer and creative director of Chanel, made headlines in 2013 when he made comments against fat women on the French television show Le Grand 8 by saying ‘no one wants to see curvy women on the runway’. Excluding plus-size women from high fashion has occurred since the infancy of stoutwear manufacturing (an earlier term used for plus-size) near the start of the twentieth century. It is important to note that stoutwear manufacturers created ready-towear designs for middle-class women, but designers did not make or promote highfashion designs in vast quantities for upper-class women. Stout society women and couture clients were certainly consuming high fashion, but high-fashion advertising, commentary and editorials were not inclusive of stout women. In fact, many high-fashion designers stressed the importance and need to be slender. This article uses primary sources from Vogue, Women’s Wear Daily, Good Housekeeping and Harper’s Bazaar to analyse the commentary during the introduction and emergence of women’s ready-to-wear and the exclusion of high fashion for stout women by designers.
Manufacturer, retailer and consumer misbehaviour in the United States during the Second World War
Authors: Mower Jennifer M. , Pedersen Elaine L. 
Published: October 2017

Abstract
With the entry of the United States into the Second World War clothing manufacturers, retailers and consumers became concerned about the possibility of wartime regulations. Scare buying and hoarding were one response to this worry. In this article we report our analysis of advertisements, articles and editorials in the New York Times, the Los Angeles Times, Women’s Wear Daily, Vogue and other newspapers and periodicals. Wartime regulations related to use of materials and pricing were implemented to support the war effort. There is evidence that regulations were not always followed. Indications of wartime misbehaviours provide a nuanced picture of the United States home front, one that indicates misbehaviours on the part of consumers and some individuals and firms in the apparel and textile industry during the Second World War. The manufacturer and retailer advertisements, often ambiguous, coupled with consumer fear drove wartime consumer clothing purchases.
The shirtwaist: Changing the commerce of fashion
Authors: Parsons Jean L. 
Published: October 2017

Abstract
The introduction of ready-to-wear shirtwaists in the 1890s was a beginning point for significant growth in the women’s apparel industry. The almost universal acceptance of waists by women at all economic levels initially both shaped and was shaped by the organization of the men’s shirt and collar trade. These companies recognized sales potential and, as one of the most organized segments of the industry, had the capabilities to produce in large quantity. However, with seemingly unquenchable demand, competition escalated quickly. It soon became an industry characterized by rapid growth, style competition and style piracy. The incredible profusion of styles at every quality level and price point also altered how retailers marketed ready-towear, and facilitated changes in women’s perceptions of fashion. As they wholeheartedly adopted the shirtwaist in its many variations, it appeared to be a democratic style desired and worn by all women, consumers who understood and demanded access to fashion.
California Way of Life: Promotion of California sportswear, 1930–47
Authors: Farnan Sheryl A. 
Published: October 2017

Abstract
Until Second World War, Paris, to many, held the undisputed title of fashion capital of the world, and had done so for centuries, at least to women of society. American women proved to be no exception. With Nazi Occupation 1940–45, this European influence was cut off and the American fashion industry regrouped, finding a new voice in the absence of Paris fashion direction. To many, New York, with its thriving garment centre and strong union control seemed to be the heir apparent. While the New York market hustled to gain press and recognition for its vigorous but under acknowledged women’s apparel industry, the California industry, with a basis for clean, modern design coming from the neighbouring movie industry, and their rather secluded locale, worked within a different framework from their eastern counterparts. As a result, the close of Paris in 1940 seemed to not impact California the same way it did New York and other garment centres throughout America. Factors such as geographic influence, public works developments, creative innovation, resourceful private and government financing, educational development, organized public relations initiatives, and West Coast population shifts all contributed to help California leverage wartime prosperity to its own advantage. As a result, during this small window of time, the West Coast industry elevated itself to distinction in women’s fashion, particularly in the emerging apparel category of sportswear.
E. Moses and Son – the tailors who pioneered mass-market men’s tailoring?
Authors: Jones Laura A. 
Published: October 2017

Abstract
This article concerns the nineteenth century tailoring firm of E. Moses and Son and explores their significance in laying the foundations for modern mass-market retailing in men’s fashion. E Moses and Son were in operation between 1829 and 1884, and in the 55 years that they were in business, they achieved considerable success by bringing together new technologies and ideas of the time. Through their revolutionary attitude to commerce, E. Moses and Son pioneered a modern and more democratic fashion platform and, despite their virtual absence from fashion history, they hold an important place in the history of fashion and of commercial progress. Against a backdrop of social and economic change, brought about by industrialization and a re-structuring of the traditional English class system, Elias Moses and his son Isaac recognized a growing appetite for the consumption of new, affordable and accessible fashionable clothing. They pioneered a new business model that reduced the cost of fashions that operated on low margins and high-turn-over. This research explores how this was achieved by implementing new methods of production through innovative use of display and promotion, and perhaps most significantly, by devising an aggressive marketing strategy that appealed to a mass market by promoting the idea of classlessness. In their heyday, E. Moses and Son played many important roles: during the 1840s they became the preeminent men’s tailoring business in London, pioneering new methods of production and promotion; during the 1850s they also became fashion connoisseurs, offering guidance on style and fashions of the day. By the 1860s, they began to theorize about the fashion, taking ideas that contemplated fashion philosophically and simplifying and re-branding them for mass consumption. E. Moses and Son may have existed for a relatively short moment in time, however, their methods have had a lasting impact on the development of modern mass-market tailoring.
Pegging and the heterosexualization of anal sex: An analysis of Savage Love advice
Authors: Aguilar Jade 
Published: October 2017

Abstract
This article analyses the Savage Love advice columns that discuss the act of ‘pegging’, a term that US sex advice columnist Dan Savage and his readers coined in 2001 to describe a woman anally penetrating a man with a strap-on dildo. Since the term was coined, the act (and the term) has gained popularity in the United States, appearing regularly in the mass media. Using a queer theoretical approach, this article shows that while straight-identified peggers benefit from the gains that gays/lesbians/queers have made in expanding norms in sexual culture, they simultaneously engage in a form of ideological work to expand the definition of ‘straightness’ in order to maintain their straight identity and the accompanying social privileges.
Violent bodies and victim narratives: On the cinematic activism of Gregg Araki’s The Living End
Authors: Mills Robert 
Published: October 2017

Abstract
This article examines how director Gregg Araki uses violence as a means of political contestation in his queer ‘road movie’ The Living End (1992). Closely analysing the formal and aesthetic construction of the film’s various violent moments by considering them alongside both specific activist practices and works of theory, this discussion outlines the material effects, and subsequently the significance of Araki’s abrasive, often confrontational style. Throughout, this article argues that The Living End’s use of violence operates on a much more complex level than a lot of critical discussions recognize, moving its focus away from the currently dominant practice of attributing significance to ‘homo pomo’ (homosexual postmodern) stylistics and instead considering the contextually specific political realities that prompted such representational excess.
Male intimacy in Marco Berger’s Plan B and Hawaii
Authors: Korn Andrew 
Published: October 2017

Abstract
Argentinian director Marco Berger has made representing love between men, rather than their sex and individual sexual identities, his cinema’s objective. Critics and scholars have noted his original refocusing of bonds between men, which is consonant with contemporary queer Latin/o American film and theory. To elucidate Berger’s relationality, this article outlines the formal and thematic elements in his short film El reloj (The Watch) (2008) and examines their expansion in his features Plan B (2009) and Hawaii (2013). Uniting Berger’s idea of ‘love’ with Michel Foucault’s notion of ‘friendship’, I argue that the features visualize the formation of a unique male intimacy in which men can explore each other’s physicality, share affectionate gestures, express sensitivity, play together, take care of each other and have sex. Their bonds lessen heteronormative aggression and dominance and transform sexuality, as they no longer derive pleasure solely from the sexual act but rather from the range of sensations, emotions and experiences of their multifaceted intimacy.