bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Socialism and the fashion business: The case of China and Hong Xiang
Authors: Tsui Christine 
Published: November 2017

Abstract
This article explores how fashion businesses were transformed from capitalist fashion firms to socialist fashion firms after the Communist Party established the People’s Republic of China (PRC) in 1949. By exploring the case of the first Chinese fashion company, Hong Xiang, through business records stored in the Shanghai Municipal Archive Center, I argue that during the Mao era (1950s–1970s) the Chinese government socialized fashion businesses in five key areas. It first took over ownership of private businesses in the name of a ‘merger’, while imposing a particular ideology in which working attitudes and clothing represented people’s political attitudes towards the nation. In clothing design, a set of dichotomies defined what was socialist dress and what was capitalist dress: socialist design was simple, economic and practical; capitalist design was complicated, luxurious and over-decorated. In business management, the government encouraged the Chinese to believe that socialist systems were better than anything under capitalism by manipulating business information and offering different interpretations of bourgeois business strategies. At a micro-level, the socialist country meticulously manipulated particular vocabularies to reflect the change of the system from capitalism to socialism. This article re-examines this rich history to offer new insights into the tensions and translations between capitalism and socialism that occurred in the Chinese fashion business between the 1950s and the 1970s.
Fashioning tradition in contemporary Korean fashion
Authors: Lee Yunah 
Published: November 2017

Abstract
This article reconsiders the debate of ‘self-orientalization’ in Asian fashion within the context of contemporary Korean fashion and its place in the promotion of the national economy and culture. Case studies of Korean fashion labels such as Tchai Kim and Isae reveal that they have challenged the typical images of hanbok, the traditional Korean dress, and provided styles and brands that resonate with local Korean characteristics as well as global fashion concerns. By reinterpreting traditional shapes and purposes of hanbok, employing traditional dressmaking methods and craft skills, and cleverly presenting and promoting their products and brands, these fashion companies have created a hybrid design and style. This has been built from the development of complex and mutually reinforcing interactions between local and global fashion knowledge and practice. This article argues that these new movements in contemporary Korean fashion provide further understanding of the complex and multifaceted dialectics of Korean fashion, beyond the dichotomy of tradition versus modernity.
The role of madoguchi in transnational fashion
Authors: Glover Catherine 
Published: November 2017

Abstract
This article uses the Japanese concept of madoguchi, literally ‘window opening’, and applies it in the context of a transnational fashion landscape. Here, a madoguchi acts as an essential go-between person, operating as a mediator between two cultures as well as functioning as a scout, fashion hunter and interpreter. The author’s personal experience as a fashion journalist reporting on notable British creative talent for Hanatsubaki, Shiseido’s Japanese in-house fashion magazine, provides a relational perspective on the role, value and skills of a transcultural madoguchi, as well as consideration of the challenges that arose from this exchange. Reflections on the peculiarities of translation when communicating cultural content to a foreign readership reveal the ‘traffic in things’ involved in global flows and the impact of evolving technology on professional fashion transmission.
Book Reviews
Authors: Guth Christine M.E. , Peters Lauren Downing , Kutesko Elizabeth , Boyer Axelle 
Published: November 2017

Abstract
The Stories Clothes Tell: Voices of Working-Class Japan, Tatsuichi Horikiri (2016), translated and introduced by Reiko Wagoner Lanham, Boulder, New York and London: Rowman and Littlefield, 206 pp., ISBN: 9781442265103, Paperback, $29.00, ISBN: 9781442265110, Hardback, $79.00
Dress History: New Directions in Theory and Practice, Charlotte Nicklas and Annabella Pollen (eds) (2015, First edition) London: Bloomsbury, 215 pp., ISBN: 9780857855411, Hardback, £85.00
Fashioning Identity: Status Ambivalence in Contemporary Fashion, Maria Mackinney-Valentin (2017, first edition) London: Bloomsbury, 186 pp., ISBN: 9781474249102, Hardback, £84.99
‘Black Fashion: Art. Pleasure. Politics’, Noliwe Rooks (ed.), special issue, Nka Journal of Contemporary African Art, 37 (2015) Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 132 pp., ISSN: 10757163, Paperback, $27.00 e-ISSN: 2152-7792
Constants in Discrete Poincaré and Friedrichs Inequalities and Discrete Quasi-Interpolation
Authors: Carstensen Carsten , Hellwig Friederike 
Published: November 2017

Abstract
This paper provides a discrete Poincaré inequality in n space
dimensions on a simplex K with explicit constants. This inequality bounds the norm of the piecewise derivative of
functions with integral mean zero on K and all integrals of jumps zero
along all interior sides by its Lebesgue norm times

C
⁢

(
n
)

⁢

diam
⁡

(
K
)

{C(n)\operatorname{diam}(K)}

.
The explicit constant

C
⁢

(
n
)

{C(n)}

depends only on the dimension

n
=

2
,
3

{n=2,3}

in case of an adaptive triangulation with the newest vertex bisection.
The second part of this paper proves the stability of an enrichment
operator, which leads to the stability and approximation of a (discrete)
quasi-interpolator applied in the proofs of the discrete Friedrichs
inequality and discrete reliability estimate with explicit bounds on the
constants in terms of the minimal angle

ω
0

{\omega_{0}}

in the triangulation.
The analysis allows the bound of two constants

Λ
1

{\Lambda_{1}}

and

Λ
3

{\Lambda_{3}}

in the axioms of adaptivity for the practical choice of the
bulk parameter with guaranteed optimal convergence rates.
Brick-by-Brick: Rebuilding the Language-Games
Authors: Gorlée Dinda L. 
Published: November 2017

AbstractWittgenstein gave no real definition of the strategy of language, so that clear definitions of thelanguage-gameand the underlyingforms of lifeare explained in tentative hypotheses. The study of the language-game is an empirical idea of inquiry: Its possible definition can be extrapolated from the source of Wittgenstein’s own writings, tracing out the meaning from the examples. Here viewed from a semiotic standpoint, Wittgenstein is boosted as a semiotic philosopher of language, moving in the conceptual development from Saussure’s interpreted-signs to Peirce’s interpretant-signs. The history of Wittgenstein’s language-game and forms of life generate linguistic-and-cultural (linguïcultural) forms ofplay-acts. Wittgenstein liked “engineering” examples of practical language-games, such as the carpenter’s toolbox and the building blocks. The “bricks” of the reconstruction of Wittgenstein’s language-games are shown by the interjective keywords to announce the building blocks. This cognitive and creative game of language can be applied to solve and understand the “building” messages of Wittgenstein’s language-games.
The trolley rumbled through the tunnel: On the history of the English Intransitive Motion Construction
Authors: Fanego Teresa 
Published: November 2017

AbstractThis article examines the history, from Old English times to the first quarter of the twentieth century, of the Intransitive Motion Construction. It compares the development of its result subschema (The trolley rumbled through the tunnel), where the verb is one of sound emission, with the development of other subschemas of the construction, in particular the manner subschema (The man walked in), where the verb denotes manner of motion. As shown by earlier research, the manner subschema and the manner of motion lexicon have greatly expanded since the Old English period, especially in Modern English. The result subschema, by contrast, although attested as far back as Old English, remains marginal until the nineteenth century, when it finally gains in importance, thus making the Intransitive Motion Construction more versatile. This expansion in the conceptual range of the construction, from predominantly coding manner of motion to describing other highly specific details of motion, such as the sound resulting from it, is linked to the addition to the English lexicon, in relatively recent times, of a great number of new sound verbs whose frequency of use has been constantly on the increase. Furthermore, the paper argues that these changes in the English sound verb inventory are also responsible for some of the developments undergone by the so-calledWay-construction (The steamer plashed its way forward) in the Late Modern English period.
On causativedarand its alternatives in the history of Spanish
Authors: García Salido Marcos 
Published: November 2017

AbstractThis paper studies the linguistic change whereby Spanishdarprevailed as the default verb to express causation when taking a state noun as its object, displacing alternatives such ashacer vergüenza‘to cause embarrassment’ orponer miedo‘to frighten’. In spite of the seeming regularity of thedar-plus-state-noun pattern, it is argued that this collocational pattern has an idiosyncratic character, since not all combinations of lexical units conveying an equivalent meaning are acceptable in present day Spanish, whilst some alternatives that are currently possible in related languages and were commonly found in previous stages of this language’s history (hacer miedolit. ‘to make fear’) are no longer available. The study tries to show that the idiosyncratic character of these combinations in present-day Spanish can be explained in diachronic terms and that they are the result of two frequency effects that have been observed in other instances of linguistic change: on the one hand, the prevalence as productive patterns of linguistic structures with a high type frequency and, on the other, the resilience of structures with a high token frequency.
A reconstruction of Proto-Kiranti verb roots
Authors: Jacques Guillaume 
Published: November 2017

AbstractIn Kiranti languages, rich alternations in verbal paradigms make internal reconstruction possible, and allow a better understanding of the vowels and codas of the proto-language than is possible for other parts of speech. This paper, using data from four representative languages (Wambule, Khaling, Bantawa, Limbu), proposes a new approach to Proto- Kiranti historical linguistics combining the comparative method and internal reconstruction, and taking morphological alternations and analogy into account. It presents a comprehensive account of the sound correspondences between the four target languages and reconstructs more than 280 proto-Kiranti verb roots.
Secretary letter-shapes in County Durham
Authors: Thaisen Jacob 
Published: November 2017

AbstractThis paper applies quantitative methods in palaeography. It develops tree-structured regression models of the palaeographical variation found in a synchronic corpus of texts written in orthographically less standardised late Middle English and establishes their accuracy. There are sixteen models, each one relating to a letter-shape known to distinguish the Gothic cursive scripts Anglicana and Secretary. The models predict the presence of the individual letter-shape from one or more of the following variables, in no particular order: (1) localisation of texts’ orthographic variation; (2) text-type; and (3) in-word position. The discussion asks why several Secretary letter-shapes cluster in documents localisable to County Durham and the area further north, given the script’s association with (a) institutions of national administration in the London-Westminster area and (b) orthographic standardisation. It concludes that the linguistics and the palaeography do not co-vary during this period in the history of the English language and suggests that it may illuminate studies of the gradient between Anglicana and Secretary to pay attention to provincial centres, not least Durham.
Proto-Germanicaiin North and West Germanic
Authors: Versloot Arjen P. 
Published: November 2017

AbstractProto-Germanic (PGmc.)aiin stressed syllables shows varied outcomes in Germanic languages (ā, ē, ei), with many of these developments being conditioned by different phonological contexts. This article presents a reconstruction that unifies this variation by assuming that the monophthongisation spread over ‘Germania’ in two waves with different scopes and directions. The first wave expanded from north to south and was primarily limited to the contexts before -hand -r. A second wave, affecting the remaining instances of PGmc.ai, did not reach Old High German and Old West Nordic. The whole process covered the time between 400 and 900. The monophthongisation of PGmc.aidoes not reflect any structural contrast among the Germanic languages, but the results had a differentiating impact on their vowel systems. The presented reconstruction is consistent with the information from runic inscriptions. It supposes a geographical configuration of tribes in a post-Migration setting.
A conceptual perspective of the evolution of Spanishfrentefrom body part to locative/spatial concept and beyond
Authors: Waltermire Mark 
Published: November 2017

AbstractThe Spanish wordfrente(O.Sp.fruente<Lat.frōns), meaning ‘forehead’, has changed gradually over time to be incorporated into a wide variety of modern forms that convey locative meanings and spatial relations as well as personal qualities. The purpose of the current study is to determine approximately when these new forms incorporatingfrentedeveloped, the mechanisms for these various changes, and the cognitive ramifications of such developments. A total of 725 tokens offrentefrom works of fiction spanning three time periods (1200–1450; 1451–1750; 1751–2000) are analyzed quantitatively and qualitatively according to collocation, meaning, and syntactic phrase. Each of these analyses, when viewed holistically, shows that the original source lexeme has largely decategorialized as a noun and has been abstracted of its locative/spatial characteristics to be gradually incorporated into prepositional and adverbial forms. It is shown that, conceptually, prepositions profile spatial relations between a trajector and a landmark whereas adverbs profile the location of a trajector alone. These grammatical uses offrenteas well as other even more abstract uses denoting personal qualities have developed over time due to cognitive processes such as abstraction, synecdoche, metaphor, and inference. Cases such as the evolution offrentefrom concrete noun to uses in locative/spatial forms as well as forms with even more abstract meanings give further justification for the need of a linguistic model that is cognitive-based.
The role of microRNAs in chronic respiratory disease: recent insights
Authors: Stolzenburg Lindsay R. , Harris Ann 
Published: November 2017

Abstract
Chronic respiratory diseases encompass a group of diverse conditions affecting the airways, which all impair lung function over time. They include cystic fibrosis (CF), idiopathic pulmonary fibrosis (IPF), chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD) and asthma, which together affect hundreds of millions of people worldwide. MicroRNAs (miRNAs), a class of small non-coding RNAs involved in post-transcriptional gene repression, are now recognized as major regulators in the development and progression of chronic lung disease. Alterations in miRNA abundance occur in lung tissue, inflammatory cells, and freely circulating in blood and are thought to function both as drivers and modifiers of disease. Their importance in lung pathology has prompted the development of miRNA-based therapies and biomarker tools. Here, we review the current literature on miRNA expression and function in chronic respiratory disease and highlight further research that is needed to propel miRNA treatments for lung disorders towards the clinic.
Unripe Banana Flour Produced by Air-Drying Assisted with Ultrasound – Description of the Mechanisms Involved to Enhance the Mass Transfer in Two Approaches
Authors: La Fuente Carla I.A. , Tadini Carmen C. 
Published: November 2017

Abstract
In this research the application of ultrasound, prior to air-drying, describing the phenomena in two approaches: unripe banana slices immersed in water (hydrated) and vacuum packaged (non-hydrated) were investigated. The results showed two falling rate periods during the air-drying. For the second rate period, an increase of water effective diffusivity due to the “sponge effect” (direct effect of ultrasound) and the microscopic channels formation (indirect effect) was observed. Scanning electron microscopy images showed that untreated dried slices were less porous, characterized by small cavities and high density, while ultrasound pretreated slices resulted in a porous structure with more free volume between cells. An increase in porosity decreased the resistance for diffusion, influencing positively the water effective diffusivity. Moreover, ultrasound produced partial disorder of the crystalline structure within the starch granules, reducing the amount of energy required for gelatinization. Moreover, reduction of resistant starch content was not observed.
Preparation of Melatonin-Loaded Zein Nanoparticles using Supercritical CO2 Antisolvent and in vitro Release Evaluation
Authors: Li Sining , Zhao Yaping 
Published: November 2017

Abstract
In this work, we reported preparation of melatonin-loaded zein nanoparticles using the technique of solution-enhanced dispersion by supercritical CO2 (SEDS) for prolonging the release of melatonin. The influence of pressure, temperature and the ratio of melatonin and zein on the morphology, the particle size and drug loading was investigated. The release profiles of the melatonin-loaded nanoparticles were evaluated. The sizes of the most particles were less than 100 nm at most conditions examined, and the morphology had three types: rod-like, globule, and filament. The maximum drug loading of 6.9% and encapsulation efficiencies of 80.2% were obtained, respectively, under different conditions. The release speed of the melatonin in the nanoparticles is lower than both the pure one and that in the physical mixture. It displayed a near zero-order release which implied that it could be applied as a potential controlled-release drug.
Walnut leaf extract acts as a fertility agent in male Wistar albino rats – A search for herbal male fertility enhancer
Authors: Akomolafe Seun F. , Oboh Ganiyu 
Published: November 2017

Abstract

Background
Walnut leaf is one of the many medicinal plants used in folklore as male fertility enhancers. The present work was therefore undertaken with an aim to scientifically validate this claim. As such, we evaluated the effect of the aqueous extract from walnut leaves on biomolecules related to fertility in adult male rats and its mode of action as fertility-enhancing agent.

Methods
Twenty-five rats were randomly divided into five groups of five animals each; Group 1 served as control and received normal (0.9%) saline only; Groups II, III, IV received 50, 500, 1,000 mg/kg body weight (BW) of T. conophorum leaf extract orally, while Group V served as standard and was given suspension of clomiphene citrate orally at the dose of 1.04 mg/kg/ml BW. The extract and drug were given daily and the experiment lasted for 21 consecutive days.

Results
The testicular biochemical parameters in treated groups showed significant (p<0.05) increase in lactate dehydrogenase activity activity, Glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase (G-6PDH) activity, glycogen content, 3β and 17β hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase activities and testicular and epididymal Zn and Se contents with a significant decrease in cholesterol content. A significant increase in testis weight and epididymis weight were also observed. Also, a significant (p<0.05) increase in the level of serum testosterone, luteinizing hormone (LH), follicle-stimulating hormone, sperm count, motility, viability and a decrease in sperm abnormality were observed in the various treated groups when compared with the control group. This increment was concentration dependent, while the extract at the highest concentration showed a more pronounced effect than the standard drug. Also, no sperm DNA fragmentation index was found in all the treatment groups. Photomicrographs from light and scanning electron microscopy showed large fenestrae of interstitial tissue, large fluid space and intact seminiferous epithelium layers fully packed with spermatogenic cells in treated groups than the control group.

Conclusions
The present study has demonstrated that Tetracarpidium conophorum leaf possesses fertility-enhancing property and have useful effects on spermatogenesis and sperm parameters in rats.
Legitimate Expectations and Land
Authors: Moore Margaret 
Published: November 2017

Abstract
This paper focuses on land as a domain in which legitimate expectations can give rise to entitlements. The central argument is that people are connected to other people and to projects, which are symbolically and materially rooted in particular places. This gives rise to an interest – an interest that is sufficiently weighty that it imposes obligations on other people – to protect stability of place. There are two ways in which legitimate expectations structure argument about land. It justifies liberty rights to remain in a place, and not be removed or expelled from it, independently of the coercion that often accompanies forcible expulsion, and argue for rights of return as a second-order right when this right has been violated. I also argue that passage of time in a changed context can affect people’s legitimate expectations, and so their entitlements.
Membrane processes
Authors: Staszak Katarzyna 
Published: November 2017

Abstract
The membrane processes have played important role in the industrial separation process. These technologies can be found in all industrial areas such as food, beverages, metallurgy, pulp and paper, textile, pharmaceutical, automotive, biotechnology and chemical industry, as well as in water treatment for domestic and industrial application. Although these processes are known since twentieth century, there are still many studies that focus on the testing of new membranes’ materials and determining of conditions for optimal selectivity, i. e. the optimum transmembrane pressure (TMP) or permeate flux to minimize fouling. Moreover the researchers proposed some calculation methods to predict the membrane processes properties. In this article, the laboratory scale experiments of membrane separation techniques, as well their validation by calculation methods are presented. Because membrane is the “heart” of the process, experimental and computational methods for its characterization are also described.