bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
How to do humans with fashion: Towards a posthuman critique of fashion
Authors: Vänskä Annamari 
Published: June 2018

Abstract
Since the publication of Li Edelkoort’s Anti Fashion Manifesto (2015), fashion scholars are increasingly asking what will become of fashion in the third millennium. Has fashion ended, like Edelkoort claims, or, should we understand fashion differently? The article sees Edelkoort’s manifesto as representative of a moment when fashion scholarship entered a self-critical stage that aimed to redefine fashion beyond consumerism. Recent critiques of fashion have specifically focused on the lack of sustainability and have called for a more ecological and ethical production of fashion. The article argues that while this is a positive development, it is not enough. Alongside the changing landscape of manufacturing, a new definition of fashion beyond the commodity is also needed. The article shifts focus from understanding fashion as a means of constantly reconstructing one’s identity through hectically changing trends (commercial self-fashioning) to understanding fashion as a form of critical thinking and as a sustained process of conceptualizing, defining and contesting the limits of the human and humanity (fashioning the human). The article argues that this shift needs new theoretical frameworks. It therefore tests posthumanist theory to rethink what fashion can mean. It explains the theoretical points through examples where the act of becoming human is negotiated: evolutionary theory, the Bible, childhood and pet dogs. In doing so, the article aims to reconceptualize fashion as an act of hominization and as a theory of the human.
A decade of challenges and possibilities: Establishing fashion studies at Stockholm University
Authors: Wallenberg Louise 
Published: June 2018

Abstract
This article offers a recount of the establishment and the development of the Centre for Fashion Studies at Stockholm University, Sweden, inaugurated in 2006. The centre, which was initially located in conjunction with the Department of Art History and later at the Department of Media Studies, has often been referred to as the very ‘first’ fashion studies institution ever to be positioned within the university (and not within a design school context). The article reflects on the possibilities, challenges and difficulties that creating and developing a space for a ‘new’ field have entailed – both within the local context (in this case, a rather traditional university context) and within a larger scholarly context (which, to a large extent, is dominated by Anglo-American institutions). Where does one look for inspiration? With whom does one create alliances to be able to offer a solid fashion studies ground (when there is none)? Also, how does one create curricula that both include and deviate from the ‘canon’ of previous fashion studies so that the Anglo-American dominance becomes less prominent?
Entanglement, affect and experience: Walking and wearing (shoes) as experimental research methodology
Authors: Sampson Ellen 
Published: June 2018

Abstract
Wearing is fundamental to our experience of cloth and of clothing; though we experience our garments through other senses it is a relationship predicated on touch. It is through the tactile experience of our garments that we come to know them; to comprehend texture, fit and form. Drawing upon both a phenomenological and a psychoanalytic approach to touch and wear this article examines the possibility of wearing as a methodology for practice and performance based research, wearing as a means of ‘doing’ research. This article presents the act of wearing, the embodied experience of clothing and the body together, as a tool for developing knowledge, of ‘being in’ or ‘being with’ rather than observing from outside. Building on the work of phenomenologists Schilder and Merleau-Ponty, it proposes a methodology of entanglement – a methodology that draws upon and abstracts the idea of participant observation. This article explores the possibility of a wearing-based research, as an addendum or adjunct to the more widely understood practice and performance based research. It asks if wearing as a research practice might open up new avenues in fashion and textile knowledge, uncovering different aspects of our lived experience of cloth and clothes. What might the parameters of wearing as performance practice be and how might it differ from wearing as a habitual embodied experience.
La nueva sala de aula
Authors: Niskier Arnaldo 
Published: June 2018

No sólo la escritura ha evolucionado con las nuevas tecnologías. El lector también se ha transformado. Es necesario buscar una nueva forma de ver la Educación, ya que los alumnos de hoy no son los mismos de antes. La preocupación que permanece es: nuestros niños, en la mayoría de las escuelas, no están aprendiendo a pensar, sacrificando, de alguna forma, la existencia de un desarrollo científico y tecnológico prometedor. El nativo tecnológico no es sólo un consumidor, sino que quiere participar. Ante de la pluralidad de opciones en el mundo occidental, ¿cómo tomar decisiones correctas? La Educación debe tratar ese aspecto.
Differences between sheep and red deer in in vitro apparent and true digestibility of commonly used red deer feeds
Authors: LAVRENČIČ Andrej , VETERNIK Darko 
Published: June 2018

The nutritive value of red deer feeds is frequently determined by sheep despite the ultimate arbitrator of the nutritive value of any feed is the host animal. The objective of the trial was to determine the influence of rumen fluid donor (sheep vs red deer) on in vitro dry matter (DMD), neutral-detergent fibre (NDFD) and true digestibility (ivTD) of eleven substrata, naturally occurring in Slovenian forests (chestnut fruits, acorns of common and sessile oak, two fresh grasses) and those frequently used in supplemental red deer feeding (two grass hays and two grass silages, apple pomace and sugar beet roots). Only the fresh grass from Jelendol had greater (p < 0.05) DMD (646 vs 508 g/kg) when incubated in red deer inoculum. The NDFD and ivTD were always numerically greater when substrates were incubated in red deer inocula, however the NDFD and ivTD were significantly greater (p < 0.05) only when fresh grass from Jelendol (590 vs 343 g/kg and 801 vs 681 g/kg, respectively), grass silage from Kokra (541 vs 359 g/kg and 742 vs 639 g/kg, respectively) and apple pomace (428 vs 328 g/kg and 704 vs 653 g/kg, respectively) were incubated in the inoculum prepared from red deer rumen contents. These results indicate that rumen fluid from sheep can be used to predict in vitro digestibility in red deer and that these parameters can be used in the formulation of deer diets.
Analysis of Changes in Fiber Density Distribution in a Cotton Combed Spinning System Using Modified Regulation of the Sliver Draft
Authors: Idzik Marek 
Published: June 2018

Abstract
Shortening the technological spinning processes, aiming at the reduction in production costs, causes problems with keeping up a high quality of yarn. Of great significance is the use of autolevellers that not only equalize the distribution of fiber linear density but also straighten the fibers and lay them parallel to the product axis. Consequently, they replace the machines eliminated from technological lines and contribute to the improvement in the quality of intermediate products and yarns. Using an example of the cotton combed spinning system, the article presents the analysis of the possibilities of using a short-term autoleveller with a modified operation algorithm that takes into account the phenomenon of sliver retardation after the process of short-term regulation. The regulation of draft was used before and after combing. The quality parameters of slivers used for feeding roving frames or rotor spinning machines were analyzed.
Electron density: historical remarks with a focus on the Berlin school
Authors: Zobel Dieter , Strumpel Marianna 
Published: June 2018

Abstract
The history of electron density (ED) research is surveyed and its historical highlights in the 20th century are summarized. The progress, reached at the beginnig of the 21st century, is described including contributions from the Berlin school. Key experimental advances concern X-ray sources and synchrotron radiation, measuring reflection data at very low temperatures (down to ~10 K), as well as the introduction of area detectors. Methodological progress was reached by new software systems for the refinement and analysis of ED data sets. This allowed to obtain quantitative ED properties, making use of Bader’s Quantum Theory of Atoms in Molecules (QTAIM). More recently methods, which combine experimental X-ray data and quantum-chemically derived wave functions, established the rapidly developing new field of “Quantum Crystallography.”
Effects of a Hip Flexor Stretching Program on Running Kinematics in Individuals With Limited Passive Hip Extension
Authors: Mettler Jeffrey H. , Shapiro Robert , Pohl Michael B. 
Published: June 2018

Abstract
Mettler, JH, Shapiro, R, and Pohl, MB. Effects of a hip flexor stretching program on running kinematics in individuals with limited passive hip extension. J Strength Cond Res 33(12): 3338–3344, 2019—Tightness of the hip flexor muscle group may theoretically contribute to altered kinematics of the lumbo-pelvic-hip (LPH) complex during dynamic movements. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to analyze the effects of a 3-week home-based stretching program on passive hip extension and sagittal plane kinematics of the LPH complex when running. Twenty healthy subjects with limited passive hip extension underwent a 3D gait analysis both before (PRE) and after (POST) a hip flexor stretching program. After the stretching program, passive hip extension increased significantly (p < 0.001), whereas no improvements during running were reported for active hip extension, anterior pelvic tilt, or lumbar spine extension (p ≥ 0.05). In addition, no relationship was found between the change in passive hip extension with either the change in active hip extension, anterior pelvic tilt, or lumbar spine extension. A 3-week static stretching program of the hip flexor muscle group resulted in an increase in passive hip extension, but the sagittal plane kinematics of the LPH complex during running remained unchanged. The results suggest that passive hip joint flexibility may be of limited importance in determining the kinematics of the LPH complex during submaximal running. However, it is possible that an increase in the range of motion at the hip may be beneficial when running at or near maximal speeds.
Insight Into the Development and Competitiveness of Male UK-Based Stand-up Paddleboard Flatwater Distance Racing From 2013 to 2017
Authors: Dyer Bryce 
Published: June 2018

Abstract
Dyer, B. Insight into the development and competitiveness of male UK-based stand-up paddleboard flatwater distance racing from 2013 to 2017. J Strength Cond Res 35(2): 535–541, 2021—An analysis of 2 stand-up paddleboard “distance” events was undertaken to investigate any change in their participation, racing behavior, and whether such events should be approached differently by practitioners. The completion time paddler-to-paddler gap was investigated as a means of assessing the performances in 2 flatwater distance events from 2013 to 2017. The level of participation at these events had not noticeably changed. An analysis indicated that both events did not significantly change in their completion time paddler-to-paddler range from year to year when looking at 3 subgroups (p > 0.05) and did not differ significantly in behavior when normalized against each other (p > 0.05). Post hoc tests revealed that the paddler time gaps at an event held in 2015 were significantly different when compared with all the other years it had taken place (p < 0.05). The use of a performance intensity chart indicated that there was different finishing paddler-to-paddler gap behavior between the 2 events. Ultimately, it is proposed that athletes and coaches should be aware that 2 events with the same generic classification of being designated a “distance event” may warrant different training methodologies and tactical decision-making.
Residual Strength and Fracture Toughness of 0.3C-CrMoV(ESR) Ultrahigh-Strength Steel Used for Solid Booster Motor Cases
Authors: Manikandan P. , Rao G. Sudarsana , Murty S. V. S. Narayana , Nayak Goutam , Mishra A. K. , Narayanan P. Ramesh , Ramkumar P. , Venkitakrishnan P. V. 
Published: June 2018

Abstract
0.3C-CrMoV(ESR) steel is an ultrahigh-strength low-alloy steel developed primarily for use as a cost-effective material for aerospace pressure vessel applications. These large-sized (Ø 2,800 mm) pressure vessels are manufactured by auto Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) welding of plates/end domes. During the welding process, defects are likely to be generated, which will reduce the strength of the material. Therefore, residual strength in the presence of a possible missed defect has to be analyzed to qualify the pressure vessel for aerospace applications. In order to evaluate the residual strength and fracture toughness of welded specimens using surface crack tension specimens, mechanical tests were conducted as per the ASTM E740/E740M-03(2010) standard, Standard Practice for Fracture Testing with Surface-Crack Tension Specimens. Plates of 7.6 mm were TIG welded with filler wire matching the chemical composition of the base metal. The welded plates were hardened at 920 ± 10°C and tempered at 505 ± 5°C. The material exhibited a 0.2 % proof strength of 1,417 MPa, ultimate strength of 1,466 MPa, residual strength (σr) of 1,301 MPa, and apparent fracture toughness (KIe) of 86.5 MPa√m in the presence of a surface crack, sized 6 by 2 mm.
Deferred Lynching and the Moral High Ground in Charles W. Chesnutt’s The Marrow of Tradition
Authors: Seger Maria 
Published: June 2018

Maria Seger, “Deferred Lynching and the Moral High Ground in Charles W. Chesnutt’s The Marrow of Tradition” (pp. 94–118)
As a literary trope, deferred lynching can attempt to establish lynching as a moral act: the deferral implies that mobs never lynch innocent men or that they always allow the law to take its course under normal (unexceptional) circumstances. But in some canonical literature at the end of the nineteenth century, the deferred lynching instead serves to critique this alleged morality of lynching. Throughout these texts, the persistent underlying threat of extralegal violence is revealed to undergird a system of exploitation on which racial capitalism depends. Taken together, then, this body of work featuring deferred lynching suggests how racial capitalism has managed to escape blame for extralegal violence for so long: by constructing its own generosity as the reason for lynching’s deferment rather than recognizing its structural role in inspiring and profiting from lynching violence. In Charles W. Chesnutt’s The Marrow of Tradition (1901), the deferred lynching of a black servant, brokered through a gentlemen’s agreement between elite white men, demonstrates that the forces encouraging the mob are not motivated by doing the right thing but instead by economic and political gain. But by deferring the lynching instead of executing it, the white elite maintains its claim to the moral high ground while still reaping the economic and political benefits that executed lynchings provided. In exposing the paradoxical rhetoric of lynching in this way, Chesnutt’s novel attends to the parallels between the white elite’s justification of lynching and the defense of unequal personhood and uneven risk under racial capitalism.
Idiopathic Scoliosis Families Highlight Actin-Based and Microtubule-Based Cellular Projections and Extracellular Matrix in Disease Etiology
Authors: Baschal Erin E , Terhune Elizabeth A , Wethey Cambria I , Baschal Robin M , Robinson Kandice D , Cuevas Melissa T , Pradhan Shreyash , Sutphin Brittan S , Taylor Matthew R G , Gowan Katherine , Pearson Chad G , Niswander Lee A , Jones Kenneth L , Miller Nancy H 
Published: June 2018

Abstract
Idiopathic scoliosis (IS) is a structural lateral spinal curvature of ≥10° that affects up to 3% of otherwise healthy children and can lead to life-long problems in severe cases. It is well-established that IS is a genetic disorder. Previous studies have identified genes that may contribute to the IS phenotype, but the overall genetic etiology of IS is not well understood. We used exome sequencing to study five multigenerational families with IS. Bioinformatic analyses identified unique and low frequency variants (minor allele frequency ≤5%) that were present in all sequenced members of the family. Across the five families, we identified a total of 270 variants with predicted functional consequences in 246 genes, and found that eight genes were shared by two families. We performed GO term enrichment analyses, with the hypothesis that certain functional annotations or pathways would be enriched in the 246 genes identified in our IS families. Using three complementary programs to complete these analyses, we identified enriched categories that include stereocilia and other actin-based cellular projections, cilia and other microtubule-based cellular projections, and the extracellular matrix (ECM). Our results suggest that there are multiple paths to IS and provide a foundation for future studies of IS pathogenesis.
Закономірності кількісної динаміки тканинних компонентів лімфатичних вузлів кролів м’ясного напрямку використання
Authors: Gavrilin P.M. , Gibert I.I. 
Published: June 2018

Метою роботи було визначити закономірності вікової динаміки відносної площі строми, компонентів лімфоїдної паренхіми та системи внутрішньовузлового лімфатичного русла деяких соматичних та вісцеральних лімфатичних вузлів кролів м’ясного напрямку використання. Проведено комплексний аналіз гістоархітектоніки лімфатичних вузлів на різних етапах постнатального онтогенезу. Подано результати комплексного дослідження структурно-функціональних особливостей соматичних (підколінних, підщелепних) та вісцеральних (каудальних брижових та середостінних) лімфатичних вузлів від 1- до 90-добового віку. Наведено морфометричні показники кількісної динаміки тканевих компонентів (стромального апарату, функціональних зон паренхіми та системи синусів) з особливостями їхнього співвідношення в межах функціональних сегментів. З’ясовано, що на структурно-функціональному рівні організації всі без винятку лімфатичні вузли кролів представлені скупченням компартментів, кожен з яких складається з лімфатичних вузликів та прилеглих до них територій паренхіми, мозкових тяжів, що продовжуються в глибину мозкової речовини, та розвиненої системи синусів. Проведеними дослідженнями встановленно, що у лімфатичних вузлах переважає відносна площа лімфоїдної паренхіми, найбільш розвиненими структурно-функціональними зонами якої є одиниці глибокої кори та мозкові тяжі. Визначено, що в момент народження у кролів лімфатичні вузли представленні скупченням лімфоїдної тканини та стромою. Зі збільшенням віку тварин в лімфатичних вузлах збільшується кількість сполучної тканини, потовщується капсула та трабекули. Одночасно з цим у вузлах зменшується кількість кіркової речовини і відносно збільшується кількість мозкової. Встановлено, що активне формування лімфатичних вузликів починається з 20-денного віку, а остаточна зональна диференціація лімфатичних вузлів у кролів досягається після 30-го дня. Кількісна вікова динаміка паренхіми на пізніх етапах онтогенезу по досягненню 90 днів визначається переважанням розвитку лімфатичних вузликів з центрами розмноження, особливо у вісцеральних лімфатичних вузлах, які мають різнорівневий характер розташування та розміщуються на бокових поверхнях одиниць глибокої кори, на їх полюсах, а також в глибоких шарах паренхіми. Мозкові синуси широкі та займають більшу площу, ніж підкапсулярні та проміжні як в соматичних, так і в вісцеральних лімфатичних вузлах, незалежно від віку тварин.
Existing problems and measures in safety management of chemical engineering
Authors: Liu Yuepeng , Zhang Zhigang , Yang Quan , Zhang Qiang , Liu Zhen’an 
Published: June 2018

For a country, the industry is a very important system, the embodiment of the country's comprehensive national strength, the country's economic development level and the development of science and technology level has direct impact on industry. The development of chemical industry also has great impetus to the national economic development. The technical requirements for chemical engineering are particularly high. Because of the danger of the chemical itself, safety becomes the first thing to notice in the construction process. In order to prevent the occurrence of danger in the actual construction process, the safety of chemical engineering construction is made, and the effective safety management is the most critical step. A reliable safety management is the guarantee for the smooth construction of the construction, so the early safety management becomes the key to the development of the chemical industry. Chemical engineering is an extremely complex and changeable system, and the kinds of problems involved are very many, which requires the construction personnel to pay more attention to ensure the safety. In order to implement the safety management measures in the process of chemical engineering construction, it is necessary for the management personnel to strictly control the whole construction process. In case of any problem, we should deal with it in a timely manner and pay more attention to the details. We should pay attention to fire prevention, pollution prevention and anti-explosion prevention. Technical personnel should pay more attention to technical problems and eliminate safety hazards. The construction company must also strengthen the personal quality of the project management personnel and other issues. It is necessary to examine personal responsibility and safety awareness and avoid unnecessary losses caused by various construction safety issues to the company[1].
Racial/Ethnic Disparities in Arrests for Drug Possession After California Proposition 47, 2011–2016
Authors: Mooney Alyssa C. , Giannella Eric , Glymour M. Maria , Neilands Torsten B. , Morris Meghan D. , Tulsky Jacqueline , Sudhinaraset May 
Published: June 2018

Objectives. To evaluate the effects of California Proposition 47, which reclassified felony drug offenses to misdemeanors in 2014, on racial/ethnic disparities in drug arrests. Methods. Using data on all drug arrests made in California from 2011 to 2016, we compared racial/ethnic disparities in drug arrests between Whites, Blacks, and Latinos, immediately and 1 year after policy changes, controlling for secular and seasonal trends. Results. In the month following passage, absolute Black–White disparities in monthly felony drug arrests decreased from 81 to 44 per 100 000 and continued to decrease over time. There was an immediate increase of 27% in the relative disparity, however, because a higher proportion of felony offense types among Whites was reclassified. Total drug arrest rates also declined, suggesting drug law enforcement was deprioritized. During the first year after enactment, felony drug arrests fell by an estimated 51 985 among Whites, 15 028 among Blacks, and 50 113 among Latinos. Conclusions. Reducing criminal penalties for drug possession can reduce racial/ethnic disparities in criminal justice exposure and has implications for improving health inequalities linked to social determinants of health.