bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025_split huggingface dataset:
Feasibility and user experience of virtual reality fashion stores
Authors: Park Minjung , Im Hyunjoo , Kim Do Yuon 
Published: August 2018

AbstractVirtual reality (VR) is a computer-simulated, realistic three-dimensional environment. VR heightens a user’s sense of being in the environment and enables the user to interact with the environment. We propose that VR can be a very cost-effective way to evaluate fashion retail store designs because of the ease of developing and adjusting the store designs as well as its ability to allow users to closely mimic the real store shopping experience. Also, these benefits create an opportunity for consumer researchers to investigate realistic shopper behaviors. In order to assess the effectiveness of using VR fashion retail store models in developing store designs and in understanding the way shoppers interact with the stores, an experiment with 40 female undergraduate students was conducted. This case study was written to share the advantage of using VR and the challenges VR uniquely presents with both fashion retailers and scholars. Implications for fashion retail store designers and managers as well as consumer researchers are discussed.
SCML2 promotes heterochromatin organization in late spermatogenesis
Authors: Maezawa So , Hasegawa Kazuteru , Alavattam Kris G. , Funakoshi Mayuka , Sato Taiga , Barski Artem , Namekawa Satoshi H. 
Published: August 2018

ABSTRACT
Spermatogenesis involves the progressive reorganization of heterochromatin. However, the mechanisms that underlie the dynamic remodeling of heterochromatin remain unknown. Here, we identify SCML2, a germline-specific Polycomb protein, as a critical regulator of heterochromatin organization in spermatogenesis. We show that SCML2 accumulates on pericentromeric heterochromatin (PCH) in male germ cells, where it suppresses PRC1-mediated monoubiquitylation of histone H2A at Lysine 119 (H2AK119ub) and promotes deposition of PRC2-mediated H3K27me3 during meiosis. In postmeiotic spermatids, SCML2 is required for heterochromatin organization, and the loss of SCML2 leads to the formation of ectopic patches of facultative heterochromatin. Our data suggest that, in the absence of SCML2, the ectopic expression of somatic lamins drives this process. Furthermore, the centromere protein CENP-V is a specific marker of PCH in postmeiotic spermatids, and SCML2 is required for CENP-V localization on PCH. Given the essential functions of PRC1 and PRC2 for genome-wide gene expression in spermatogenesis, our data suggest that heterochromatin organization and spermatogenesis-specific gene expression are functionally linked. We propose that SCML2 coordinates the organization of heterochromatin and gene expression through the regulation of Polycomb complexes.
Ivy1 is a negative regulator of Gtr-dependent TORC1 activation
Authors: Varlakhanova Natalia V. , Tornabene Bryan A. , Ford Marijn G. J. 
Published: August 2018

ABSTRACT
The highly conserved TORC1 complex controls cell growth in response to nutrients, especially amino acids. The EGO complex activates TORC1 in response to glutamine and leucine. Here, we demonstrate that the I-BAR domain-containing protein Ivy1 colocalizes with Gtr1 and Gtr2, a heterodimer of small GTPases that are part of the EGO complex. Ivy1 is a negative regulator of Gtr-induced TORC1 activation, and is contained within puncta associated with the vacuolar membrane in cells grown in nutrient-rich medium or after brief nitrogen starvation. Addition of glutamine to nitrogen-starved cells leads to dissipation of Ivy1 puncta and redistribution of Ivy1 throughout the vacuolar membrane. Continued stimulation with glutamine results in concentration of Ivy1 within vacuolar membrane invaginations and its spatial separation from the EGO complex components Gtr1 and Gtr2. Disruption of vacuolar membrane invagination is associated with persistent mislocalization of Ivy1 across the vacuolar membrane and inhibition of TORC1 activity. Together, our findings illustrate a novel negative-feedback pathway that is exerted by Ivy1 on Gtr-dependent TORC1 signaling and provide insight into a potential molecular mechanism underlying TORC1 activation by vacuolar membrane remodeling.
The unusual flagellar-targeting mechanism and functions of the trypanosome ortholog of the ciliary GTPase Arl13b
Authors: Zhang Yiliu , Huang Yameng , Srivathsan Amrita , Lim Teck Kwang , Lin Qingsong , He Cynthia Y. 
Published: August 2018

ABSTRACT
The small GTPase Arl13b is one of the most conserved and ancient ciliary proteins. In human and animals, Arl13b is primarily associated with the ciliary membrane, where it acts as a guanine-nucleotide-exchange factor (GEF) for Arl3 and is implicated in a variety of ciliary and cellular functions. We have identified and characterized Trypanosoma brucei (Tb)Arl13, the sole Arl13b homolog in this evolutionarily divergent, protozoan parasite. TbArl13 has conserved flagellar functions and exhibits catalytic activity towards two different TbArl3 homologs. However, TbArl13 is distinctly associated with the axoneme through a dimerization/docking (D/D) domain. Replacing the D/D domain with a sequence encoding a flagellar membrane protein created a viable alternative to the wild-type TbArl13 in our RNA interference (RNAi)-based rescue assay. Therefore, flagellar enrichment is crucial for TbArl13, but mechanisms to achieve this could be flexible. Our findings thus extend the understanding of the roles of Arl13b and Arl13b–Arl3 pathway in a divergent flagellate of medical importance.
This article has an associated First Person interview with the first author of the paper.
Adapting the Bridges stroke self-management programme for use in Australia
Authors: Singer Barbara , Jones Fiona , Lennon Sheila 
Published: August 2018

Background/Aims: This study explored the applicability of the UK Bridges stroke self-management programme for use in an Australian health care context, and specifically, the need for any modification to the workbook tool. Methods: Data were collected via survey from Australian stroke professionals who had attended a 2-day Bridges training workshop and from focus groups with community-based stroke survivors across three different states. Findings: A total of 18 out of 30 workshop attendees (60%) completed the electronic survey. Most (94%) agreed that the training had advanced their practice with a stronger focus on self-management principles and that they would recommend the training to colleagues. The majority (71%) had incorporated some Bridges stroke self-management programme principles or strategies into their practice; although 81% reported a range of barriers to doing so. A total of 26 stroke survivors attended focus groups. The workbook was considered to be a useful tool to support self-management. Suggestions for change included the addition of some culturally contextualised patient stories and locally relevant stroke support resources. Conclusions: Stroke survivors and health professionals recognised the need for structured training, such as the Bridges stroke self-management programme, to develop self-management skills and knowledge post stroke. The Bridges stroke self-management programme workbook would be able to be used in Australia with minor modification.
Using Machine Learning to Aid the Interpretation of Urine Steroid Profiles
Authors: Wilkes Edmund H , Rumsby Gill , Woodward Gary M 
Published: August 2018

Abstract

BACKGROUND
Urine steroid profiles are used in clinical practice for the diagnosis and monitoring of disorders of steroidogenesis and adrenal pathologies. Machine learning (ML) algorithms are powerful computational tools used extensively for the recognition of patterns in large data sets. Here, we investigated the utility of various ML algorithms for the automated biochemical interpretation of urine steroid profiles to support current clinical practices.

METHODS
Data from 4619 urine steroid profiles processed between June 2012 and October 2016 were retrospectively collected. Of these, 1314 profiles were used to train and test various ML classifiers' abilities to differentiate between “No significant abnormality” and “?Abnormal” profiles. Further classifiers were trained and tested for their ability to predict the specific biochemical interpretation of the profiles.

RESULTS
The best performing binary classifier could predict the interpretation of No significant abnormality and ?Abnormal profiles with a mean area under the ROC curve of 0.955 (95% CI, 0.949–0.961). In addition, the best performing multiclass classifier could predict the individual abnormal profile interpretation with a mean balanced accuracy of 0.873 (0.865–0.880).

CONCLUSIONS
Here we have described the application of ML algorithms to the automated interpretation of urine steroid profiles. This provides a proof-of-concept application of ML algorithms to complex clinical laboratory data that has the potential to improve laboratory efficiency in a setting of limited staff resources.
Wardrobe Hack and Uncatwalk: Design interventions to encourage more fulfilling relationships with our clothing
Authors: Whitty Jennifer 
Published: August 2018

Abstract
Fashion is now fast and disposable. The current product–service system for fashion ensures that unwanted items are quickly abandoned in favour of the next shiny new thing. Leaving little time or motivation for consumers to engage, appreciate and articulate oneself through fashion. This activity is destroying the value of clothing both figuratively and literally and is having a huge negative impact on people and planet. This research asks can designers create systems and services that improve and extend the use phase of the person–product relationship and ensure ongoing contentment and fulfilment for the user? The practice-led research projects, Wardrobe Hack and Uncatwalk, encourage everyday user autonomy of clothing from the site of their fashion experience, their own wardrobe. The aim of these projects is to enable the development of alternate ecologies of practice or behaviour for fashion users in the use phase of a garment’s life in order to encourage more fulfilling relationships with clothing to address the environmental impact of overconsumption. This practice-based fashion research project and its associated design intervention occur during the ‘use’ phase of clothing. This is a means of encouraging more sustainable consumer activity through longer-term consideration and connectivity with existing clothing. This is an under-researched stage of the conventional person-product-service relationship, and can be a means of encouraging more sustainable consumer activity.. This is achieved by exploring the viability and potential of a Wardrobe Hack service or courses of actions that enable ‘wearers’ to share their everyday practices, build competencies and create a space for sustainable fashion product–services and practices to emerge. This research builds on Fletcher’s work in the Local Wisdom (2013) project, exploring the emerging field of enriching the fashion user experience in the post-production and post-retail environment. It seeks to create a better integration of clothing and material culture in our lives by proposing alternative roles for designers and consumer to design services for longevity of use practices. These models demonstrate how digital and social media can provide a vehicle for fashion designers to facilitate participatory experiences amongst fashion users. Future research requires a longitudinal study to evaluate the impact from the consumer’s perspective.
Case study: Swat Valley Guild peace-building initiative and Artisan enterprise for community empowerment and sustainable development
Authors: Deo Zulfiqar 
Published: August 2018

Abstract
The Swat Valley Guild (SVG) is engaging local artisans in the Swat Valley region of Northern Pakistan with the global fashion community. The local artisan heritage is centuries old and is under threat from conflict, climate change and industrialization. The SVG is organizing a demand-centric approach, which allows the artisans to engage with the global community and ensures it solves some key challenges of the fashion industry as well, focusing on waste, sustainability and people development. There is a unique form of embroidery (Panjara) indigenous to the Swat Valley being preserved by this project. Artisans from the Guild are changing the face of the fashion industry. The local artisan ecosystems allow for flexible bespoke production, enabling the fashion industry to solve some of its key challenges. These being waste, pollution and people insensitivity. Fashion as a discipline helps the individual to find him/herself through self-expression. It supports new and original form, which in time finds its function. When the founders of the SVG first decided to set up the Guild in 2016 in the Swat Valley Region, Northern Pakistan, they had to decide how to position this high social impact business in the open market to support the fashion industry with its key challenges. They felt the openness, innovativeness and the global presence of the fashion industry would be the best place to start.
Perceived class mobility and veiled stratification of contemporary fashion: A comparison with proletariat and bourgeois class structure in the nineteenth century
Authors: Cha Hana 
Published: August 2018

Abstract
It is important to bear in mind as to what extent this distinction exists, or whether we can confidently say it does not exist at all. As a matter of fact, we find that with higher income, individuals spend more of their capital income on clothing. There is still an intangible class division and stratification on the street, even though it is representative. Therefore, it is important to examine the historical role played by clothing as a symbol or a form of self-expression within the social hierarchy, and to identify its antithetic aspects during post-industrial Britain and France, and from the twentieth century to present day. In this article, the principal plan is to outline the contrast between the past and the present examining two antithetic aspects of clothing within the social structure for those periods; the first era is post-Industrial Revolution in Britain and France. The intention is to explain the intensive opposition between the bourgeois, which represents the upper class, and the proletariat, which is the lower class in the mid-eighteenth century to the end of nineteenth century. The second period is the twentieth century to the present and democracy and equilibrium in fashion will be examined. Finally, class mobility through ether existing hierarchy or reduced representation (i.e. ambivalence to Democracy in fashion) as the main debate of multifaceted stratification in fashion will be elaborated and the class boundaries are increasingly blurred, yet whether we accept it or not, class distinctions still exist.
Guardian: Made in Cambodia: Experimental textile design responding to Cambodian factory conditions, unionism and the phenomenon of Neak Ta possession
Authors: Adams Cynden , Keulemans Guy 
Published: August 2018

Abstract

Guardian: Made in Cambodia is an ethical textiles project undertaken in response to the low-income and hazardous working conditions of garment factory workers in Cambodia. The project critically designs a range of garments that acknowledge and raise awareness of cultural manifestations of unionism in Cambodia, specifically the Neak Ta phenomenon. The garments are speculatively imagined as capable of ethical production by a small community of workers from Cambodia’s garment factories in order to (capacitate) provide a mode of production and sustainable source of income alternative to industrial factory employment. The Neak Ta phenomenon refers to mass fainting associated with land guardian spirits unique to Cambodian Animist belief. The phenomenon is regarded as a culturally appropriate form of rebellion occurring in a country where unionism is discouraged and labour protests can become violent. Guardian: Made in Cambodia applies a methodology of experimental material and processes research through textile-focused studio practice, as a means to better understand the conditions of Cambodian garment workers and the Neak Ta phenomenon. This process corresponds to a critical design approach that engages with the topic interrogatively through experimental making, in order to challenge paradigms of design and production. The resulting textile and apparel products visualize the repetitive piecework of garment factory work and the disruption caused to it by the Neak Ta phenomenon. Open and closed seams, darts and hems recall the repetitive qualities of piecework labour, disrupted by dark-toned natural dyeing techniques intended to capture and convey expressions of fainting and possession.
Digital tools to support motivation of music students for instrumental practice
Authors: Wan Lydia A. , Gregory Sue 
Published: August 2018

Abstract
Instrumental practice is fundamental to the development of musical expertise, and motivation plays a vital role. Music practice can be challenging for many children as it demands significant effort, resilience and perseverance. Motivation is also essential in applying appropriate strategies necessary for effective practice and musical attainment. Founded on multiple motivational theories, motivational design models aim to provide a comprehensive framework to address motivational issues in learning environments. This case study analysed digital tools to determine their potential to facilitate motivational strategies to increase children’s engagement and motivation for music practice. Five such categories of tools were identified: practice logs, note feedback tools, portfolios, music stand software and accompaniment tools. Using the attention, relevance, confidence and satisfaction (ARCS) motivational framework, this research found that most tools potentially facilitated motivational strategies to a restricted extent and suggests that a limited range of digital tools may currently be available to fully support children’s motivation for instrumental practice.
Overcoming barriers: Towards a framework for continuing professional development to foster teaching sound-based music
Authors: Wolf Motje , Younie Sarah 
Published: August 2018

Abstract
This article presents a theoretical discussion emerging from a pilot study within the EARS 2 teacher’s pack study, in which the suitability of the teacher’s packs that accompany an online sound-based music resource (EARS 2, www.ears2.dmu.ac.uk) was tested. The study investigated if the teacher’s packs could bridge the gap between the teacher’s current knowledge and the knowledge that was provided in the resources on sound-based music given to the teacher. During the study a minor technical glitch appeared, which caused the teacher to discontinue with the teaching trial. This was seen as a critical incident and was analysed using the critical incident technique. During the analysis, three different theoretical concepts were applied to the critical incident: cognitive prototype theory, the threshold concept theory and the concept of metacognitive knowledge. The article concludes by suggesting a theoretical framework for teacher Continuing Professional Development (CPD) in sound-based music. The results presented in this article cannot be generalized due to the sample size; however, this is currently followed up in further research.
Minimal cost service rate in priority queuing models for emergency cases in hospitals
Authors: S. Udoh Nse , A. Etukudo Idorenyin 
Published: August 2018

Performance measures and waiting time cost for higher priority patients with severe cases over lower priority patients with stable cases using preemptive priority queuing model were obtained. Also, a total expected waiting time cost per unit time for service and the expected service cost per unit time for priority queuing models: M/M/2: âˆž/NPP and M/M/2: âˆž/PP were respectively formulated and optimized to obtain optimum cost service rate that minimizes the total cost. The results were applied to obtain optimum service rate that minimizes the total cost of providing and waiting for service at the emergency consulting unit of hospital.Â Â Â Â
Intimate Clips: Sealskin Sewing, Digital Archives and the Mittimatalik Arnait Miqsuqtuit Collective
Authors: Wachowich Nancy 
Published: August 2018

This article reflects upon the interplay of digital, material, and social relations in the context of a small-scale digital archiving project currently being undertaken by a group of women ethnographers, videographers, and sealskin seamstresses in the Canadian Eastern High Arctic Inuit settlement of Mittimatalik (Pond Inlet). I illustrate the documentation work of our Mittimatalik Arnait Miqsuqtuit Collective, situating it in the new media landscapes that have developed in the Canadian Arctic, and draw on case studies to challenge claims that new communications technology has led to the breakdown of social and environmental relationships. Clips from our digitizing work in progress offer insight into the relational ecologies emergent the making of this archive: illustrating how the unique materiality of sealskin and digital archives, the politics of Inuit hunting, the sensibilities of family and friends, and the challenges of broadband connectivity in Arctic settlements shape this initiative. Technology also emerges here as a key agent, enabling new collaborative relationships, political voice, and forms of knowledge production, but also denying others.
Genetic morphometry in Nigerian and South African Kalahari Red goat breeds
Authors: Sanni Muyideen Timothy , Okpeku Moses , Onasanya Gbolabo Olaitan , Adeleke Matthew Adekunle , Wheto Mathew , Adenaike Adeyemi Sunday , Oluwatosin Bamidele Omonuwa , Adebambo Oluwafunmilayo Ayoka , Ikeobi Christian Obiora Ndubuisi 
Published: August 2018

Abstract
Genetic improvement of goat breeds in growth and other traits (e.g. milk production) is limited by the demographics of the goat herds, extensive production system and the seemingly long-term nature of improvement through traditional genetics and breeding methods. We studied the genetic morphometry in Nigerian goats and South African Kalahari Red goat breeds. A total of 192 goats belonging to three Nigerian breeds (Red Sokoto (RS), Sahel (SH) and West African Dwarf (WAD)) and one South African Kalahari Red (KR) goat breed were analysed. Animals were classified into four age groups: A group – less than 1 year, B group – between 1 and 2 years, C group – between 2 and 3 years and C group – older than 3 years based on dentition. Analysis of variance, correlation matrix, regression and discriminant analyses were used to evaluate morphological variability. Results revealed that the effect of breed on the measured morphometric traits was significant (P < 0.05). The best prediction equation for body weight (BW) with R2 = 0.84 was obtained when body length (BL), withers height (WH) and chest depth (CD) were included in the model for KR goat. Growth traits were positively correlated with each other with the highest correlation coefficients found between BL and BW (r = 0.877, P < 0.01), WH and BW (r = 0.541, P < 0.01), WH and BW (0.661, P < 0.01) and CD and BW (0.738, P < 0.01) in KR, RS, SH and WAD goats, respectively, which are important for a conscious selection and breeding programme for desired traits. Stepwise discriminant procedure showed that WH, CD and BL were the most discriminating variables to separate KR, RS, SH and WAD goats. In accessing morphological diversity, efforts should be made to include phenotypic variables of at least ≥ 3 in order to minimize ambiguity in classification. Based on the pair-wise distances from the Discriminant function, the study provided informed decision, reference information on goat breeding and conservation strategy.