The current state and prospects of peptides use in cosmeceuticals
Authors: Khokhlenkova N. V. , Soloviova A.V. , Filiptsova O. V. , Kaliuzhnaia O. S. , Dvinskykh N. V. 
Published: November 2024

Aim. To analyze the range of peptides in cosmeceuticals.
Materials and methods. The study materials were publications in scientific periodicals. The study used methods of content analysis, comparative, logical, analytical methods and generalization of information.
Results. The analysis of scientific literature data has shown that bioactive peptides of various origins are widely used as active ingredients in cosmeceuticals. In 2022, the global market for the synthesis of cosmetic peptides was estimated in 195.3 million USD. The market is expanding due to the growing consumer demand for skin care and anti-ageing products. Consumers are shifting towards a holistic approach to beauty, appreciating products that not only provide instant results, but also support the skin’s natural processes. Peptides, with their various benefits, perfectly match this approach by promoting skin elasticity from the inside, providing a long-lasting positive result. Peptides can be used to address specific skin problems, such as hyperpigmentation, acne and inflammation. According to the mechanism of action, biologically active peptides are classified as carrier peptides, signal peptides, neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides and enzyme inhibitor peptides. Carrier peptides facilitate the transport of cofactors, such as copper and manganese, across the skin barrier. Both cofactors are essential for enzymatic reactions involved in preventing aging and wound healing. Copper tripeptide-1 and manganese tripeptide-1 are examples of carrier peptides that have been successfully used to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation associated with photoaging. Signal peptides or matrikines are derived from extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen, elastin and fibronectin. Matrikines interact with specific receptors that stimulate the synthesis, repair and remodeling of the extracellular matrix. These peptides also regulate the activity of certain key enzymes involved in the aging process, such as collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase. Neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides are the latest cosmeceutical peptides. Similar to botulinum toxins, these peptides prevent the release of acetylcholine, a neurotransmitter responsible for muscle contraction. Inhibiting this process relaxes facial muscles, preventing the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. Neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides are a safer alternative to traditional botulinum toxin treatment with fewer potential side effects. Enzyme inhibitor peptides have become popular active ingredients in anti-ageing cosmetics. This class of peptides inhibits the activity of certain enzymes involved in various biochemical processes of the skin. Their application in cosmeceuticals is to control or inhibit those processes that cause skin damage, aging or loss of elasticity.
Conclusions. The study of peptides for use in cosmeceuticals has opened new prospects in skin care and aesthetic medicine. Bioactive peptides of various origins – from plants, animals, marine organisms, and edible insects – exhibit a wide range of properties, including antiaging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial effects. Peptides open new horizons in the creation of innovative cosmeceuticals, especially when combined with other active components, such as antioxidants or retinoids. Their safety, ability to biodegrade and spot impact make peptides an attractive ingredient for solving various dermatological problems without the side effects of more aggressive skin correction methods.