A sustainable design example: Evaluation of pantyhose with bricolage and deconstruction method
Authors: Hasret Feride , Ağaç Saliha 
Published: May 2021

Calisma kapsaminda kadinlarin en cok tukettikleri, ince ve esnek yapisindan kullanim omru az olan kulotlu corap surdurulebilirlik baglamında degerlendirmeye alinmistir. Cikis noktasini kulotlu corabin komur ve petrolden cikan kimyasallarin birlestirilmesiyle elde edilen naylon malzeme icerigiyle biyolojik olarak parcalanamamasi ve dogada yok olma suresinin uzun olmasi bakimindan dogaya verdigi zarari azaltmaya yonelik atik coraplarin deneysel uygulamalarla geri kazandirilmasi olusturmaktadir. Bu baglamda kulotlu corap ileri donusum kavrami altinda ele alinarak brikoloj ve dekonstruksiyon yontemleriyle 8 deneysel tasarım gerceklestirilmistir. Deneysel tasarim sureci sonunda; corabın dikim islemlerine uygun oldugu, deforme olusturmadigi, esnek yapisina ragmen giysi turlerinin uretiminde kullanildiginda formumun bozulmadigi gorulmustur. Geleneksel susleme teknikleri (tepme kece, kordon tutturma, enkuruste, pachwork) uygulamalari esnasinda hasar almadigi, kullanılabilirligi acisindan yuksek sonuclar verdigi, fantezi giyim turlerinde alternatif malzeme olarak kullanılabilecegi, dar gelen giysilerin genisletilmesi isleminde kullanilabilecegi, her bir parcasinin degerlendirilerek yaratici tasarimlar gelistirilebilecegi gorulmustur. Calismada atik durumundaki kulotlu corabın giyim ve moda alaninda etkin, islevsel, estetik acidan deger kazandirilmasi ve tekrardan kullanima dahil edilmesi amaclanmistır. Atik miktarini azaltarak surdurulebilirlige saglayacagi katki, uygulamalar sonucunda var olan malzemelerin yerine kullanilmasiyla alternatif malzeme olmasi ve bireylerin yaraticiliklarini gelistirmesi acisindan onemli bulunmaktadir.

Anahtar Kelimeler: Atik, Kulotlu Corap, Brikolaj, Dekonstruksiyon, Surdurulebilir Moda.
Abstract
The developments in technology, industry and economy during the 21st century have affected all sectors, as well as the fashion industry. The effects of those developments have been seen as fast fashion and fast consumption which caused the fashion industry to be ranked as second among the industries seriously damaging the environment. Within the scope of sustainable fashion, the concepts of recycling and upcycling have come up with reducing environmental damage, pollution prevention and liveable environment. Within the scope of this study, pantyhose, which is used mostly by women and has a low usage due to its thin and flexible structure, was evaluated in the context of sustainability. The starting point is the recovery of waste socks for reducing environmental damage by experimental implementations in terms of the biodegradability of the pantyhose with the content of nylon material derived by combining coal and chemicals from oil and the long period of extinction in nature. Therefore, examining pantyhose with the concept of upcycling, eight experimental designs were made with bricolage and deconstruction methods. At the end of the experimental design process, it has been observed that the socks were suitable for the sewing process, were not deformed and were not misshaped, despite their flexible structure when used in the production of clothing types. It has been observed that pantyhose is not misshaped during the implementations of traditional decoration techniques (compressed felt, cord fastening, encrusted applique and patchwork); it showed great results for usability; it can be used as an alternative material in fancy clothing, for widening narrow clothes and to make creative designs using each part. In this study, it was aimed to reuse the wasted pantyhose and to add effective, functional, aesthetic value to pantyhose in the clothing and fashion industry. The pantyhose is important for its contribution to sustainability by reducing the amount of waste, as a result of implementations being used as an alternative to other materials and being suitable for improving the creativity of individuals.
Keywords: Waste, pantyhose, bricolage, deconstruction, sustainable fashion.