bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Distribution of Cross-Sectional Area, Perimeter, Circularity, and Secondary Wall Thickness of Different Cotton Fibers During Growth
Authors: Petkar B.M. , Mhadgut D.V. , Oka P.G.
Published: March 2008

Bolls from four cottons, one from each of the cultivated species G. arboreum, G. herbaceum, G. barbadense, and G. hirsutum, were picked at weekly intervals. Cross- sectional area and perimeter were determined for 200 fibers of each of these samples, and secondary wall thickness and circularity were calculated. Cross-sectional area, circularity, and secondary wall thickness increased with fiber growth. These increases were greater in the initial stages of development than in the later stages. The percentage of frequency distribution of cross-sectional area, perimeter, and secondary wall thick ness indicated almost normal distribution, but there was no similar trend for circularity.
Profile and Volume of Never Dried Cotton Fibers
Authors: Peeters M.-C. , De Langhe I. , De Langhe E.
Published: March 2008

Never dried fibers have a circular cross section but a very irregular profile. Fiber length is not a good parameter for the characterization of the final product of fiber growth. A simple, fast, and accurate method is proposed for determining the mean volume of a significant population of never dried fibers. The technique does not need sophisticated instruments and can be applied directly in cotton growing areas.
Mechanics of a Single Nozzle Air-Jet Filling Insertion System Part I: Nozzle Design and Performance
Authors: Mohamed Mansour H. , Salama Mahmoud
Published: March 2008

The effect of nozzle design on the air velocity for an air-jet filling insertion system has been investigated. The relationship between the supply air pressure and the air velocity at the nozzle axis is explained using a simplified model for the nozzle. The presence of the yarn tube has a substantial influence on nozzle performance. The interaction between the jet and the air guide system (in the form of a tube) is discussed in terms of the ratio of the guide diameter to the nozzle diameter.
Effects of Spinning Speed and Quench Air Temperature on the Characteristics of Melt Spun Poly(ethylene Terephthalate) Yarn1
Authors: Kim S.L.
Published: March 2008

Spinning speed and quench air temperature are two important parameters in spin ning. Yarns were spun at varying speeds and two quench air temperatures to study their effects on the spun yarn structure and properties. The spun yarns were charac terized using stress-strain testing, differential scanning calorimetry, and dynamic me chanical testing. Tensile parameters, crystallizability data from differential scanning calorimetry, and viscoelastic properties showed strong sensitivity to spinning speed and some effect of quench air temperature at high spinning speeds. These spun yarn characterizations would therefore be useful tools to establish spun yarn structure prop erty processing relationships and help optimize the spin/draw process. Various spun yarn characteristics suggest that processing parameter control would be more critical at high spinning speeds.
Estimating the Quantity of Usable Fibers in Baled Cotton
Authors: Taylor Robert A.
Published: March 2008

The accuracy of estimating weight loss in processing cotton is improved with in strument based cotton classification measurements when compared to conventional cotton classification. Two new methods of rapidly estimating trash content were in vestigated as candidates for use in instrument classification. Nonlint losses were also measured with a Shirley analyzer and a conventional carding machine. Agreement with carding loss ranged from an r2 of 36 for conventional grading to an r2 of 77 for Shirley analyzer measurements. When nonlint content data were combined with other fiber data, the Shirley analyzer method explained 90% of the variation in carding loss. When comparing the two new rapid methods, the trash monitor was a better estimator of card loss than the scanning trashmeter, but when combined with fiber data, the two were equal. Both of the rapid trash measuring instruments are commercially available, and both can be used on a routine basis to improve mill performance.
Prediction of Fabric Bagging from Mechanical Properties
Authors: Yokura Hiroko , Nagae Sadahiko , Niwa Masako
Published: March 2008

An objective evaluation method is proposed for predicting the bagging propensity of woven fabrics. The volume of the bagged fabrics was used as a measure of the bagging propensity. Dynamic creep caused by repeated shear deformation under con stant tension was measured in addition to the basic mechanical properties of fabrics. The correlations between the bagging volume of fabrics and their mechanical properties were examined statistically. For stretch fabrics, the bagging volume was correlated strongly with hysteresis behavior in tensile, bending, and low angle shearing defor mation measured after wetting conditioning for 5 hours at 32°C and 90% RH and with the value of the strain at t = 0.1 minutes, &(0.1) from the dynamic creep test. For conventional fabrics, a strong correlation was observed between the bagging volume and the value of the strain &(0.1) as well as the creep rate kd from the dynamic creep test. The equations for predicting fabrit bagging were obtained by statistical analysis of the relationship between the bagging volume of fabrics and their mechanical prop erties.
Role of Quench Air Profiles in Multifilament Melt Spinning of PET Fibers
Authors: Dutta A.
Published: March 2008

A modeling approach for multifilament melt spinning of poly(ethylene terephthalate) fibers is outlined. The complex interactions between the filament bundle geometry and the quench conditions are likely to play a critical role in controlling spun fiber properties and their variability. Numerical results for typical commercial spinning conditions illustrate the nature of this effect. Unless these interactions are accounted for while designing the quench hardware and the spinneret, the actual quench con ditions (and hence the spun fiber quality) may be far from the desired values.
Bacterial Adherence on Fabrics by a Radioisotope Labeling Method
Authors: Hsieh You-Lo , Timm Debra A. , Merry Joanne
Published: March 2008

A radioisotope labeling technique was used to quantify the adherence of Staphy lococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Escherichia coli on eight fabrics. The extent of bacterial adherence depends on the bacterial type, the fiber content, and the contact condition. Staphylococci adhered more than Escherichia coli, and Staph. epidermidis adhered more than Staph. aureus on all fabrics. There were apparently different degrees of bacterial adherence in the eight fabrics, but the ranking orders of adherence depended to a great extent on the contact condition. Bacterial adherence was increased by both agitation and saturated wetting due to increasing bacterial cell- fiber contact. There was an increasing trend in bacterial adherence on all fabrics as contact time increased up to 24 hours, with occasional zig-zag patterns. On most fabrics, cleaning and autoclaving did significantly influence the extent of bacterial adherence to the fabrics. The quantitative data along with the morphology of bacterial adherence by SEM suggested that factors other than hydrophilicity, water absorbency, and surface roughness may affect the extent of bacterial adherence to the fibers.
A Study of Wool Carbonizing
Authors: Wu Zhao  , Pailthorpe M.T.
Published: March 2008

Studies on the weight loss from wool, over an extended range of sulfuric acid con centrations and temperatures, have shown that there is a critical concentration for sulfuric acid and its effects on wool. Sulfuric acid droplets spread on wool when the concentration exceeds 40% under drying conditions. The concentrated acid causes locally damaged areas that do not exhibit the Allworden reaction. A low weight loss was observed in the treated wool for drying temperatures below 70°C, even for high sulfuric acid concentrations. Thus lower drying temperatures before baking in car bonizing could minimize damage to the wool.
Alkaline Hydrolysis of Mixtures of Reactive Dyes
Authors: Bhattacharyya N.
Published: March 2008

The alkaline hydrolysis of monochlorotriazine reactive dyes under standard con ditions has been studied individually and in mixtures. The rate and extent of hydrolysis have been determined using a high performance thin layer chromatographic technique as well as an analysis of the concentration of chloride ions liberated during hydrolysis. The results indicate that for the pair of dyes where interaction takes place under aqueous alkaline conditions, both the rate and extent of hydrolysis decrease, and when no interaction between the dyes occurs, the hydrolysis of the respective dyes individually and in mixture is the same.
States of Water Sorbed on Wool as Studied by Differential Scanning Calorimetry
Authors: Sakabe Hiroshi , Ito Hiraku , Miyamoto Takeaki , Inagaki Hiroshi
Published: March 2008

The states of water sorbed on Merino wool fibers, their histological components, and chemically modified wool fibers were investigated by differential scanning calo rimetry (DSC) in order to elucidate the amount of bound water on wool fibers, the differences between the histological components of wool fibers, and the effect of polar groups on the states of water sorbed on wool fibers. For the sake of comparison, the states of water sorbed on cotton and silk were also examined. There may exist three different kinds of water sorbed on wool fibers, i.e., free water, freezing bound water, and nonfreezing bound water. The amount of bound water on wool fibers is larger than that on cotton yam and silk. The amount of bound water on cortical cells is about two times higher than that on cuticular cells. The amount of bound water on nonkeratinous cell components is about three times higher than that on keratinous cell components. The cell membrane complex plays an important role in water pen etrating to wool fibers, but its contribution to the amount of bound water is negligible. The contribution of polar groups in wool fibers to the amount of bound water is not specific at high water contents, indicating that the peptide groups of the main chain play a significant role as water binding sites at high water contents.
Effect of Twist Factor and Stitch Length of Open-End Spun Cotton Yarn on Properties of Rib Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Sharma I.C. , Narender Kumar Gupta  , Agarwal B.R. , Patnaik N.R.
Published: March 2008

Open-end yarn of 59 tex nominal count was spun at three different twist factors of 47.8, 51.7, and 55.5. Steam setting of the yarn was done for twist setting (stabilization) and nine samples of a 1 X 1 rib structure were prepared at three different levels of stitch length. Dimensional stability was achieved with the help of a resin treatment in an open tub, and various physical and mechanical properties were tested in different states of relaxation.
Effect of Zeolite on the Dispersion Stability of Particles
Authors: Kimura Michiko , Komaki Motoko , Nakajima Toshinari
Published: March 2008

The effect of zeolite on the dispersion stability of particulate soils was investigated by absorbance and electrokinetic measurements. Ferric oxide and polystyrene latex particles were used for models of particulate soils. Maximum interaction potentials were calculated for the various interacting pairs of these particles, with surface potentials taken as the ζ-potentials found experimentally, and they provided reasonably high barriers against flocculation at low ionic strength (5 X 10-3 M). Experimentally ob served dispersion stabilities were in general accordance with this prediction. At high zeolite concentrations, however, a tendency against flocculation occurred for polysty rene-zeolite suspensions; zeolite slightly increases the dispersibility of coagulated poly styrene particles.
Maximum Extraction of Wool Proteins by Thiol-Urea Solutions
Authors: Maclaren John A.
Published: March 2008

The extraction of protein from wool fibers by alkaline thiol solutions containing urea has been re-examined with a view to achieving maximum extraction. The extent of extraction was generally less than that previously reported. Some samples of Merino wools (21 μm diameter) show marked differences in the extent of extraction, and the extractability is apparently related neither to the age of the sample nor to the lanthionine and lysinoalanine contents.
Comparison of Dust Contents of Six Cottons as Measured by the Cotton Particulates Analyzer and Several Other Methods
Authors: Deluca L.B.
Published: March 2008

Gravimetric respirable dust fractions obtained from six cotton samples with the new cotton particulates analyzer (CPA) were used to evaluate each of several different methods of measuring cotton dust. These cottons were previously used to measure dust by each method. There is no general relationship between respirable dust and trash for different cottons. Additionally, the CPA trash fractions were compared with Shirley analyzer trash fractions. The CPA can be substituted for the Shirley analyzer to measure trash fractions of different cottons.
Foam Finishing Treatment of Cotton Fabrics with Formaldehyde
Authors: Gonzales Elwood J. , Reinhardt Robert M.
Published: March 2008

A fractional factorial design of experiments was used in studying the formaldehyde release and bound formaldehyde content of cotton printcloth treated with formaldehyde (HCHO). Foam application of the HCHO with Zn(NO3)2.6H2 O catalysis was used at wet pickups (WPU) up to 40%. Statistical analysis of the formaldehyde property data by multiple stepwise regression indicated that interactions of processing variables were responsible for (or correlated with) a substantial portion of the variability in the formaldehyde release and bound formaldehyde properties. The multiple regression model equation for bound formaldehyde did not contain the reaction time variable.
Surface Wettability Scanning of Long Filaments by a Liquid Membrane Method
Authors: Kamath Y.K. , Dansizer C.J. , Hornby S. , Weigmann H.-D.
Published: March 2008

A technique is presented for characterizing the surface wettability of relatively long filaments based on scanning the filament with a liquid membrane. This technique overcomes the limitations of specimen size and crimp, which are inherent in the bulk immersion method for evaluating wettability changes along a filament. The technique can be used to study the surface distribution of finishes on long filaments, provided the wettability characteristics of the finished surface are significantly different from those of the untreated filament under the conditions of measurement. If the method is to be used to study finish distribution, an appropriate liquid must be used for the membrane, and guidelines for selection of such a liquid are discussed.
Photolytic Behavior of Some Popular Disperse Dyes on Polyester and Nylon Substrates
Authors: Freeman H.S. , Hsu W.N.
Published: March 2008

The photodegradation products that form when disperse red 1, red 17, and blue 3 dyed fabrics and films are exposed to carbon arc and xenon arc light sources have been identified. The effects of black panel and dye carrier on the nature of the deg radation products and the fading process itself were also studied. The results of this research indicate that the same photodegradation products occur in comparisons in volving carbon arc versus xenon arc exposures, polyester versus nylon substrates, black panel versus no black panel exposures, and exposures of carrier dyed versus no carrier dyed PET. It is clear that photo-reduction pathways account for the products that form when the two azo disperse dyes (red 1 and red 17) photofade, but photo oxidation characterizes the fading of the anthraquinone disperse dye blue 3. The pho todegradation products were determined with the aid of GC mass spectrometry and by TLC comparisons with authentic samples.
Surface Whitened, Shrink Resistant Wool Cloth of Improved Lightfastness
Authors: Levene R.
Published: March 2008

Chemically bleached woolen cloth was treated with a silicone based felt shrink resin and then with an acrylic resin that had a fluorescent whitening agent dissolved in it. The fluorescently surface whitened cloth thus obtained yellowed significantly more slowly, particularly when wet, then conventionally whitened cloth, in addition to being resistant to felt shrinkage. The two resin treatments were in a chlorinated organic solvent. The treated cloth had an acceptable handle and the treatment was fairly fast to gentle washing. A disadvantage was that the silicone treatment required 10-14 days for crosslinking on the cloth before the acrylic resin could be applied. Simultaneous treatment with both resins was successful only when using DC 109 silicone resin and dichloromethane as the solvent. Neither silicone nor acrylic resins yellowed the cloth upon application or caused accelerated photoyellowing afterwards. Surface whitening using an aqueous acrylic emulsion gave a satisfactory level of whiteness and rate of photoyellowing only when using a high concentration of resin on the cloth, which adversely affected its handle.
Cotton/Milkweed Blends: A Novel Textile Product
Authors: Louis Gain L. , Andrews B.A. Kottes
Published: March 2008

Experimental fabrics have been knitted from high level blends of cotton and common milkweed fibers. The milkweed fiber ( Asclepias syriaca), often called "vegetable silk," is a seed floss that is similar to the Rux fiber ( Caleotropis gigantea ) of Southeast Asia. The physical properties of the milkweed fiber, its morphology, and the properties of the blended yams and fabrics are described. The response of the fabrics to scouring and bleaching and to subsequent durable press finishing has been investigated. Certain strength and moisture related advantages can be realized from replacing part of the cotton in a fabric with milkweed, without reduction in the durable press levels obtained in similarly finished all-cotton fabrics.
Stability of DMDHEU and Alkylated Crosslinking Finishes Towards Acidic and Alkaline Hydrolysis
Authors: Abhyankar Prashant N. , Beck Keith R. , Ladisch Christine M. , Bertoniere Noelie R.
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabrics treated with various alkylated derivatives of DMDHEU were subjected to hydrolysis by urea-phosphoric acid, hot 23% sodium hydroxide, and urea-phosphoric acid followed by sodium hydroxide. Sequential treatment with acid and base removed more nitrogen and formaldehyde than the alkaline treatment, which removed more nitrogen and formaldehyde than the acid treatment. Stability of the crosslinks generated by these resins depended on both the degree of alkylation of DMDHEU and the nature of the alkyl cap. This stability was reflected in greater amounts of residual nitrogen and formaldehyde after hydrolysis. Those residues, in turn, affected the residual break ing strength, flex abrasion resistance, and wrinkle recovery of the hydrolyzed fabrics. The stability of the crosslinks also correlated well with formaldehyde release data for the treated fabrics.
Relation Between Microporous Structure of PAC/AS Blend Fibers and Sequence Distribution of AS Copolymers
Authors: Jian Qin  , Zhao Feng Liu  , Mingyuan Yang  , Ping Jun Mao  , Fantin Li
Published: March 2008

In investigating porous water-retentive acrylic fibers by the polymer blending tech nique, a small amount of acrylonitrile-styrene copolymer (AS) was used and blended with acrylic copolymer (PAC). Using the equations proposed by Harwood, the sequence distribution parameters of AS copolymers were calculated according to the C≡N infrared stretching frequencies. The microporous structure of the PAC/AS blend fibers is closely related to the AS sequence distribution. The results suggest a new explanation of why the sequence distribution of the AS copolymer is an important factor interfering with the dispersibility of the AS copolymer in the PAC/AS blend dopes as well as in the blend fibers.
A Method of Predicting the Strength and Breaking Strain of Cotton Yarn
Authors: Zurek W. , Frydrych I. , Zakrzewski S.
Published: March 2008

A method for predicting yarn strength and strain is presented, based on the main fiber parameters of linear density, length, strain, and stress. The application of special software for a microcomputer makes the time required for all the calculations extremely short (2 minutes maximum). A comparison of the theoretical and experimental values of strength and breaking strain is presented.
Appraisal of Woven Fabric Performance
Authors: Ukponmwan Joshua O.
Published: March 2008

This work evaluates the performance of 100% cotton woven fabrics. We have ex amined abrasion resistance, diverse mechanical properties (compression and flexion), and certain aesthetic properties (handle, i.e., stiffness, smoothness, and softness). Changes in the properties of a fabric as a consequence of wear are illustrated; wear is a laboratory action involving some method of abrasion such as an Accelerotor on either dry or damp fabrics. In addition, we consider some aspects of the physical and mechanical properties of woven fabrics in which changes in weight, thickness, stiffness, air permeability, and compression are used as criteria to assess damage caused by frictional abrasion. The results show that weight loss may be small as a result of short periods of accelerated wear, and changes in other physical properties may be large, particularly compression, flexion, and air permeability. The differences between worn and unworn fabrics can be detected subjectively by touch. Changes occur in fabric properties as a result of incremental wear. Weight per square meter, coercive couple, and flexural rigidity show consistent decreases with increasing abrasion time at a fairly uniform rate. Thickness, air permeability, lateral air permeability, and compression show inconsistent increases with increasing abrasion time at non-uniform rates.
Physical Ageing and Annealing in Fibers and Textile Materials
Authors: Sukigara Sachiko , Dhingra R.C. , Postle R.
Published: March 2008

The viscoelastic behavior of annealed fabric specimens produced from wool and manmade fibers has been assessed by measuring the fabric bending stress relaxation characteristics. The study reveals that the presence of water provides an effective me dium for de-ageing of fabrics produced from both wool and manmade fibers. Optimum annealing conditions occur when these fabrics are heated below the glass transition temperature of each fiber type at the equilibrium moisture regain corresponding to 20°C, 65% RH (the time taken depending on the annealing temperature). Under these conditions, the fabric bending stress relaxation rate is reduced to its minimum value, thus resulting in maximum fabric recovery from bending or wrinkling. The application of horizontal and vertical shift factors produces a master stress relaxation curve of aged and annealed fabric specimens produced from both wool and manmade fibers.
Relationship Between Triboelectric Charging and Surface Modification of Human Hair: Polymeric Versus Monomeric Long Alkyl Chain Quaternary Ammonium Salts
Authors: Jachowicz J. , Garcia M. , Wis-Surel G.
Published: March 2008

Triboelectric charging of hair modified by surface deposition of a series of monomeric and polymeric long alkyl chain quaternary ammonium salts was examined. The length of the hydrophobic alkyl chain in both monomeric and polymeric surfactants, the composition of copolymer-containing surfactant and nonsurfactant units, and the concentration of the treatment solution are the factors determining the sign and mag nitude of generated tribo-charges. The results were interpreted in terms of effective work function of modified fibers dependent upon surface concentration and com position of adsorbed species.
Detergency Study: Distribution of Natural Soils on Shirt Collars
Authors: Kay Obendorf S. , Webb Joan J.
Published: March 2008

Collar soil on woven fabrics was studied in order to characterize the distribution of residual natural soils on fibers. Scanning electron micrographs of longitudinal yarns and cross sections revealed a high degree of soil variability. The particulate soil was not homogeneously deposited in interfiber spaces and on fiber surfaces. Particle size, geometry, chemical composition, and distribution ranged widely. In the magnification of these experiments, fiber morphology did not appear to be a factor in preferentially locating the particulate components of natural soil, but it did appear to influence the distribution of the oily component. Oily soil was observed on the surfaces of polyester and cotton fibers and in the interfiber spaces of the yarn bundle. Oil was also found in the crenulation, secondary walls, and lumen of cotton fibers. These findings are consistent with the distribution of oil observed on laboratory soiled specimens. Oil was located in the interior of some worn (cracked) polyester fibers, but no oil appeared in polyester fibers that were not damaged. Composite (oily plus particulate) soil was detected in the same location on many fiber surfaces. This phenomenon was previously observed on laboratory soiled specimens.
Dyeing Kinetics of Monochlorotriazinyl Dyes for Nylon
Authors: De Giorgi Maria Rita , Cerniani Ado
Published: March 2008

Some reactive monochlorotriazinyl dyes for nylon containing the pyridinic ring were found, and their dyeing rate was studied by means of the diffusion and rate coefficients in acid conditions and by means of the rate curves in alkaline conditions. A linear correlation was found between the diffusion and the rate coefficients. In order to clarify the stability of hydrolysis of such dyes as a function of the groups present in the molecule, the results were compared with others we found previously for similar dyes derived from α-naphthothiazole.
Physical Ageing and Annealing in Fibers and Textile Materials
Authors: Tao X. , Sukigara S. , Postle R. , Dhingra R.C.
Published: March 2008

The theory of viscoelasticity in textile assemblies reported in Part I of this series of papers is extended to blended textile materials. The complex effects of ageing or an nealing or both of these on the stress relaxation processes in a blended textile material are separated into several regions according to the demarcation provided by the glass transition temperature of the constituent fibers in the blend. The influence of ageing or annealing processes on the mechanical properties contributed by constituent fibers in the blend can be represented by horizontally shifting the stress relaxation curves of the fibers in the logarithmic time scale. The time shift factors for each individual group of fibers in the blend take into account the changes in temperature and ageing or annealing history. The sufficient condition to obtain a single effective time shift factor for the blend is that all viscoelastic component fibers must have only one identical time shift factor with respect to the same reference state. The theory predicts that, in most real situations, there should be no single time shift factor obtainable for textile blends owing to the differences between the shift factor of the component fibers. The interaction between the fiber components in a blended fabric represents an important aspect of its viscoelastic behavior. An experimental study reveals that the interaction between fiber blend components in wool/polyester fabrics is influenced by the differ ences in the stress relaxation behavior of the blend constituents, blend composition, and fabric weave construction. The study also indicates that the annealing process improves the viscoelastic properties of wool/polyester blended fabrics. Optimum an nealing conditions occur when these fabrics are heated in the vicinity of the glass transition temperaure of wool fibers at the equilibrium moisture regain corresponding to 20°C and 65% RH.
Detergency Study: Comparison of the Distribution of Natural Residual Soils After Laundering with a Variety of Detergent Products
Authors: Webb Joan J. , Obendorf S. Kay
Published: March 2008

Five commercial laundry detergents were evaluated using natural soil obtained from facial wipes. The largest observed difference between products was in their removal of particulate soil from the yarn surfaces. The effectiveness of particulate soil removal was related to the surfactant/builder system, with the phosphate built, anionic powdered detergent being the most effective, and the built liquids being more effective than the unbuilt liquid detergents. For all detergent products tested, electron beam x-ray mi croanalysis indicated that the largest percentage of residual oil was located in the interfiber capillaries of the yarn structure, followed by the secondary walls, the lumen, and the crenulation of cotton fibers. Little or no oil was observed in the interior of polyester. The large variation in soil level between facial wipes prepared by different panelists had an effect on the concentration of the oil within the fibrous structures.

The type of laundry detergent used also influenced the concentration of residual oily soil found in selected locations within and around the cotton and polyester fibers. Fiber surfaces retained less oil when the fabrics were laundered with the powdered detergents than when washed with the liquid detergents, but there were no differences in performance between the liquid and powdered detergents in removing oil from the lumen, crenulation, or secondary walls of cotton. The phosphate built powdered de tergent with anionic surfactants removed oily and particulate soil from yam surfaces more completely than the carbonate built powdered detergent with nonionic surfac tants. In comparison, the distribution of residual oil within the yarn structure was the same after laundering with the two powdered detergents. The citrate built liquid had higher concentrations of residual oil in the crenulation of the cotton fiber and on the fiber surfaces than the other liquid detergents. Since the differences between products were small, it appears that the factors limiting the detergency of oil from fabric structures are the same for all the detergent products evaluated.
Repellency of Textile Assemblies
Authors: Kawase Tokuzo , Fuj Tomiko , Minagawa Motoi
Published: March 2008

In a series of studies on the relation between the wettability or repellency of textile assemblies and their structures, apparent contact angles (ϕ) of monofilament nylon and polyester mesh screens to water were measured to clarify the effect of the woven structure on the repellency of textiles. The apparent equilibrium contact angles (ϕ e), not the apparent advancing ones (ϕ A), can be quantitatively predicted by using the theoretical expressions for the liquid-solid and liquid-air interfaces per unit of mac roscopic surface area in the Cassie-Baxter equation ( f1 and f 2, respectively) and the true advancing contact angles (θ A). The effect of the size of sessile water drops on the apparent contact angles (ϕ) was also interpreted in terms of the distortion of the drop surface owing to the gravity effect.
Physical Ageing and Annealing in Fibers and Textile Materials
Authors: Mahar T.J. , De Jong S. , Dhingra R.C. , Postle R.
Published: March 2008

The work of earlier papers in this series is extended by quantifying the level of wool fabric ageing that occurs in actual garment wear. The main experimental variables considered in this paper are the ageing history of the fabric, the time of wear, the level of physical activity attributed to the subject wearers, and the position of the fabric test sample on a pair of trousers worn by each subject wearer, that is, the lap , crutch, behind the knee, and the cuff. Fabric ageing is evaluated from bending stress relaxation measurements made on the fabric test samples subjected to two sets of ambient con ditions : constant temperature and relative humidity (20°C, 65% RH), and conditions of changing relative humidity at constant temperature. The fabric stress relaxation rate is always higher for fabrics after wear than the corresponding control fabric sample, which was merely allowed to age for the same time but was not subjected to any wear. Significant differences in fabric bending stress relaxation rates under both constant and changing humidity conditions occur as a result of different levels of subject wearer activity. The fabric bending stress relaxation rate for an initially aged fabric that has been worn for an average of 1.5 days is equivalent to one of the standard de-ageing treatments [2] used in fabric wrinkle testing.
Decision Schemes for Assessing Dark Fiber Concentration in Top
Authors: Turner T. Rolf , Foulds Roger A.
Published: March 2008

Assessing dark fiber concentration in mill batches of top destined for the white and pastel trade is a problem of major economic importance in the wool industry. Thus it would seem desirable, if not essential, to have an agreed set of procedures for de termining whether a given concentration is exceeded. The decision criteria used throughout the industry vary widely, however, due in part to the lack of an underlying rationale. In this paper a framework is proposed within which a broad class of decision schemes may be constructed. The objective is to provide a rational basis for industry- wide uniform procedures. A method is then described for comparing the performance of a given scheme, from within this framework, with an "ideal" performance. Also a procedure for determining the parameters of such a scheme is outlined. The parameters of several example schemes are calculated and an example given of how one such scheme might be chosen as an industry standard.
Rapidly Conditioning Laboratory Samples of Cotton
Authors: Brown Roger S.
Published: March 2008

A rapid cotton conditioning apparatus that uses a combination of dry air and room air forced through a blended 10 gram laboratory sample is evaluated with 14 cottons. The evaluation indicates that a 6 to 10 minute conditioning cycle is equal to 24 to 48 hours of room conditioning in trays. The use of dry air in the rapid conditioner had little or no effect on hysteresis when compared to samples that were room conditioned in trays.
Kinetics of Dust Removal from Cotton by Repetitive Mechanical Cleaning
Authors: Montalvo Joseph G.
Published: March 2008

Two models of the kinetics of dust removal from cotton by repetitive mechanical processing are considered on the basis of the fiber-frictional force applied to clean the fiber. The approach in the constant-force model is to hold the fiber-frictional force constant with repetitive processing. In the decreasing-force model, the fiber-frictional force decreases with each successive stage of processing. The primary "pool" of dust in the cotton is assumed to be the in situ dust, that is, already present in the cotton and adhered to the fiber surface. Rate equations are derived to calculate at each stage of mechanical processing the remaining concentration of in situ dust, the cumulative generation of airborne dust, and the amount of airborne dust generated at each stage of cleaning. Diagnostic criteria are presented to fit experimental data to either of the models and to calculate the rate constant. Results of the theoretical calculations indicate the rate of dust removal from cotton is greater for the constant-force model. An equation is derived to compute the theoretical dust removal efficiency of the decreasing-force model relative to the constant-force model.
Effect of Solvent Treatments on the Handle of Wool Fabrics
Authors: Carr Christopher M. , Weedall Philip J.
Published: March 2008

The KES-F system has been used to investigate solvent treatments of wool, in par ticular dry cleaning and solvent scouring. Solvent scouring is compared to similar aqueous treatments by both objective and subjective measurements.
Reaction Equilibria and Textile Performance from Low Formaldehyde Release Carbamate Finishing'
Authors: Andrews B.A. Kottes , Reinhardt Robert M.
Published: March 2008

Durable press finishes for cottons based on carbamate agents have certain advantages over those based on other amides, including superior resistance to both acidic and alkaline hydrolysis and absence of yellowing on white goods. A disadvantage has been the tendency of these finished fabrics to release unacceptably high levels of formal dehyde in the unwashed state, a result of the equilibrium between the methylolcar bamate and the free carbamate and formaldehyde, which favors the free carbamate and formaldehyde. We have taken advantage of the stability imparted to the methylol- amide by etherification to design low formaldehyde release carbamates. We discuss the influence of reaction conditions such as temperature and pH on formaldehyde release in preparing these agents. We report on the textile performance of treated cotton, including formaldehyde release, for fabrics finished with the low formaldehyde release carbamates, and we compare this to a finish from dimethyloldihydroxyeth yleneurea.
Quantitative Fiber Mixture Analysis by Scanning Electron Microscopy
Authors: Wortmann F.-J. , Wortmann Gabriele , Arns W.
Published: March 2008

Part I of this series described the analysis of blends of the specialty fibers mohair and cashmere with sheep's wool by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), assuming equal densities and circular cross sections for the components. A bias may be expected in the analysis of other noncircular and medullated specialty fibers through systematic errors in determining the fiber diameters and densities. To determine whether the SEM method is subject to such a bias, blends were prepared of wool with angora rabbit hair, which can be regarded as an extreme example of noncircularity and med ullation. The results show that the blends can satisfactorily be analyzed by introducing a specific density for angora rabbit hair of 1.15 g/cm 3. No systematic bias of the results due to cross-sectional irregularities or to a density distribution of the rabbit hair could be detected. For the angora/wool blends, the errors of analysis compare favorably with those of cashmere/wool and mohair/wool blends.
Influence of Extension Rate and Specimen Length on Tenacity and Breaking Extension of Acrylic / Viscose Rayon Rotor Spun Yarns
Authors: Kaushik R.C.D. , Salhotra K.R. , Tyagi G.K.
Published: March 2008

Rapid straining of ring yam is known to result in a higher breaking load. This may or may not hold good for rotor yams, owing to their different structure. In this work, we have studied the influence of extension rate and test length on the tenacity and breaking extension of acrylic and viscose rotor spun yams and their blends. We report some interesting results that are contrary to what one generally expects.
A Viscoelastic Analysis of the Keratin Composite
Authors: Tao Xiaoming , Postle R.
Published: March 2008

The static correspondence principle for viscoelastic composites has been applied to establish two viscoelastic fibrous composite models for keratin. The composite model comprising isotropic viscoelastic matrix and filament phases provides accurate pre dictions of the effective fiber mechanical properties ( longitudinal and transverse). The composite model successfully identifies the filament phase as the microfibril structure in the wool fiber. The mechanical properties of both constituent phases in the keratin fiber, the partially crystalline microfibrils and the amorphous matrix, are influenced by variations of the water content in the fiber. The longitudinal and transverse tensile and shear relaxation moduli are calculated for the keratin fiber at different moisture regain levels. The mechanical anisotropy of keratin is related to the constituent phase properties and the packing geometry of the composite.
Thermal Bonding of Polypropylene Fibers
Authors: Warner S.B.
Published: March 2008

The thermomechanical processes that occur during thermal bonding of isotactic polypropylene are discussed. Each process is described and the magnitude of each effect estimated. The results suggest that flow is important to the formation of a good bond. Flow is facilitated by line pressure and is an important means of heat transfer to the center of the bond. Conductive heat transfer is limited. Deformation heating is small, but not negligible. Solidification of polymer that has been melted and forced to flow leads to mechanical entanglement. The Clapeyron effect is invoked to suggest that only a limited amount of melting occurs under high pressures. Diffusion, estimated using Reptation Theory, does not seem to be an important process in thermal bonding. Fabric strength is limited by the thermomechanical history of polymer at the bond perimeter.
A Solar Energy Accelerated Process for Combined Desizing, Scouring, and Bleaching of Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Gulrajani M.L. , Gupta Sanjay , Gupta S.K.
Published: March 2008

A simple "hot box" type solar collector has been used to achieve simultaneous desizing, scouring, and bleaching of cotton fabrics using a pad-batch method. Excellent properties have been obtained with a batching time of a mere 1½ hours. We discuss the design and efficiency of the solar oven and the results of the experiments done in it. Our observations clearly demonstrate that the solar energy concentrating device can be conveniently used for fabric preparation.
An Investigation of Wool Hydrolysis in Conventional Carbonizing
Authors: Wang C. , Pailthorpe M.T.
Published: March 2008

We have investigated the extent of wool hydrolysis in the carbonizing steps of acid izing, delay between acidizing and drying, baking, and delay between baking and neutralizing. We have also examined the roles played by oxygen and sorbed water. We found that wool was hydrolyzed by 5% (w/v) sulfuric acid solution even at room temperature during the delay time between the acidizing and drying steps. The drying of acidized wool can be divided into two stages. In the first stage of drying, the rate of wool hydrolysis changes with drying time, but remains constant in the second stage of drying. We observed critical temperature points at 70°C in drying and at 120°C in baking, above which wool hydrolysis increases significantly. The results suggest that in the absence of water, virtually no wool hydrolysis will occur under acid conditions; however, no amount of drying will curtail wool hydrolysis because of powerful water retention by the sulfuric acid. Oxygen does not appear to play any significant role in wool hydrolysis during carbonizing.
Influence of pH and Ionic Strength on Equilibrium Sorption of Cationic Dyes by Acrylic Fibers
Authors: Alberghina Gaetano , Amato Maria Emanuela , Fisichella Salvatore , Zollinger Heinrich
Published: March 2008

We have investigated the equilibrium sorption of two cationic dyes by acrylic fibers at different pH levels and sodium chloride concentrations. To interpret the data, we used the simple Donnan approach with the assumption that the acrylic fibers contained two different types of acidic groups. The distribution coefficients of the dyes are dis cussed in relation to the structures of the dyes and the fibers and the effect of sodium chloride. The equilibrium sorption at different pH levels gives some indication of the strength of the strongly and weakly acidic groups of the acrylic fibers not directly accessible by experiments.
Weave Room of the Future
Authors: Jayaraman Sundaresan , Malhotra Rajeev
Published: March 2008

We have examined the technological feasibility and economic viability of using monitored information for real-time operator assignment in a weave room. adopting the team weaving approach. We consider the benefits of using operator headsets for transmitting assignment information from the computer to the operator, including protection of the operator from the noise in the weave room. We also consider inte grating information on raw material costs and other processing costs with weaving costs, so that the fabric is produced in the weave room with the real-time evaluation of manufacturing costs. Based on a cost-benefit analysis, the investment in additional hardware and software required for realizing these several features of the weave room of the future is justified.
Theory of the Compression Hysteresis of Fibrous Assemblies
Authors: Carnaby Garth A. , Pan N.
Published: March 2008

An analysis of a fibrous assembly at large deformations has been explored as a means of predicting the compressional behavior, especially the compression hysteresis. The essential principle is to classify all the fiber contact points in the assembly as either slipping or nonslipping, so they can be dealt with separately. The compressional modulus and Poisson's ratio are derived and shown to be dominated by the mechanical properties and the directional distribution of the individual fibers within the assembly. An iterative algorithm, in which the system geometry is updated on successive incre ments, is developed to cope with large and nonlinear deformations. A comparison between the theoretical prediction and the experiment has indicated reasonable agree ment. An improvement could probably be achieved by including the contribution of fiber viscoelasticity to the total hysteresis.
A Viscoelastic Analysis of the Keratin Composite
Authors: Xiao Ming Tao  , Postle R.
Published: March 2008

Formulations of thermal/hygral viscoelasticity of the keratin composite are presented by applying an analogy with the theory of uncoupled elasticity. The anisotropic mois ture swelling and thermal expansion are expressed in terms of the mechanical and thermal/hygral properties of the constituent phases and filament volume fraction. The calculated moisture swelling/hygral expansion of the matrix phase in the keratin fiber increases nonlinearly with fiber regain. From dry to wet, the matrix volume increases by 83% (the wet filament volume fraction = 0.5). The filament or microfibril phase changes in dimension only slightly compared with the matrix phase. The analysis using the estimated phase thermal expansion coefficients yields a value of the volumetric thermal expansion coefficient for wet keratin equal to 5.18 × 10-4/deg, which is in good agreement with the value measured by Mason for the volume thermal expansion of wet wool.
An Integrated Approach to Dynamic Analysis of the Ring Spinning Process
Authors: Batra Subhash K. , Ghosh Tushar K. , Zeidman Mishu I.
Published: March 2008

We have re-analyzed the dynamics of the ring spinning process as a coupled set of subproblems and have obtained the solutions numerically. The analyses in Parts I and II of this series deal with the case of an uncontrolled balloon. In Part I we ignore the effects of air drag as well as gravitational and Coriolis accelerations. In Part II we include the effects of air drag. These analyses differ from the earlier ones in their choice of the relevant boundary conditions; those used here we presume are more realistic. The shapes of the spinning balloons are derived from the conditions of dynamic equi librium of the yam, from pigtail to wind-point, as well as that of the traveler. Non dimensionalization of the problem is based on two physical lengths, allowing easy comparison of the balloon shapes for widely different dynamic conditions (including collapsed balloons) on the same plot. Tension distributions along the yarn path can be predicted. Similarly, the mass of the traveler required for a specified yarn tension at the pigtail can be calculated. Air drag is particularly useful in controlling the shape and size of the balloon. The numerical solution procedures we have developed can be used to explore the regions of instability of the balloon.
Frictional Restraints During the Knitting Process
Authors: Zurek W. , Tyc E. , Piasecki M. , Frydrych I.
Published: March 2008

Friction was measured during the knitting process on a specially. constructed ap paratus. Linear regression equations representing the relationship between the driving and impeding forces were observed. The values of Howell's parameter n were calculated on the basis of derived equations, and n was found to vary for different weights.