bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Gel-Permeation Properties of Cellulose
Authors: Blouin F.A. , Martin L.F. , Rowland S.P.
Published: March 2008

The gel-permeation technique has been applied to the characterization of cotton cellulose fibers from fabrics cross-linked with formaldehyde in wet-cure and in bake-cure reactions and reduced to a sufficiently small particle size by Wiley-milling. Measurements of total internal water contents, internal solvent volumes, and permeability limits are indicative of the nature and extent of changes in pore structure resulting from the cross-linking. Cross-linked compositions were examined at progressively higher levels of formaldehyde which were obtained under the various reaction conditions.

The wet-cure processes Forms W and W' involving water-swollen cotton produced only limited alterations of the cellu lose pore structure at the maximum levels of cross-linking attainable by these treatments. Changes in the values obtained for the gel-permeation parameters were small, but the trends show that a larger reduction of internal pore volume is pro duced under the Form W process than under the Form W' process. Reaction with the less concentrated Form W reagents caused a smaller decrease in the permeability limit than Form W'.

Large changes in pore structure resulted from cross-linking the cotton in a collapsed state by the hake-cure, Form C. process. The internal pore volumes of both the total and of the effective solvent water contents were reduced with cross- linking over the range from 0.47% to 2.20% methyleneoxy contents of the samples. The permeability limit was reduced from a molecular weight of 2430 for untreated cotton to approximately 1250 at the lowest level of cross-linking. No further decrease of this parameter was produced by cross-linking up to the maximum methyleneoxy content of 2.20%.

In all three forms of reaction, the changes produced in total internal water contents followed trends similar to the values for water of imbibition determined by centrifuging. The latter values were larger than those measured chromatographi cally by 34-100%, the discrepancies being larger for the smaller true volumes of internal water calculated from column- volume measurements. The centrifugal technique of determining water of imbibition is a simple procedure for estimating relative changes of internal pore volumes of cottons.
Breathable, Permanent Water-Repellent Treatment of Cotton 1
Authors: Deanin Rudolph D. , Patel Dhirajlal C.
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabric was esterified with C4-18 aliphatic monobasic acid chlorides in dimethyl formamide, with pyridine as acid scavenger, at temperatures of 30-85°C. Reaction for 15-60 min at 85°C produced 0.02-0.36 ester groups per monomer unit, which provided water-repellency ratings of 50-80 in the AATCC spray test; water-repellency generally improved with increasing chain length and reaction temperature. Dry-cleaning resistance was good in perchloroethylene alone, but addition of alkaline soap required longer chain lengths and preferably an aqueous post-rinse to retain water repellency. Air permeability decreased during the reaction, but this was due primarily to shrinkage rather than inherent in the pro duction of water repellency. Tensile strength decreased gradually with increasing chain length, temperature, and time, but it was possible to produce a maximum spray rating of 80 with a tensile loss of only 33% and spray ratings of 70 with tensile losses as low as 12%.
The Effect of Dry Friction on the Oscillatory Behavior of Fabrics
Authors: Chow T.S. , Hermans J.J.
Published: March 2008

A simple differential equation is developed to include the effect of dry friction in the oscillatory behavior of a material. It is assumed, following Alptekin and Zorowski, that the viscoelastic behavior is described adequately by a linear Voigt model. The contribution of dry friction to the stress is represented by a step function of the strain rate. The nonlinear equation obtained is solved by means of the perturbation theory. The amplitude of the oscillatory displacement is calcu lated, and it is found that the strain in the testpiece shows a number of discontinuities, the number depending on the length of the testpiece.
Anion-Exchange Cottons Prepared from Sodium Cellulosate1
Authors: Berni Ralph J. , Soignet Donald M. , Benerito Ruth R.
Published: March 2008

Sodium cellulosates containing from 0.5-1.9 mequivs of Na+ per gram of fabric were prepared by reacting cotton in methanolic solutions of sodium methoxide. The sodium cellulosates were reacted with β-chloroethyldiethylamine in t-butanol to form diethylaminoethyl (DEAE) cottons of greater than 1.0% nitrogen. These DEAE -cottons, easily pre pared at room temperature, were readily converted to the quaternary-base cellulose anion exchangers. Quaternary-base anion exchangers of lower capacity were prepared by reacting sodium cellulosates with glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride. Anion exchangers prepared in nonaqueous media did not differ in fabric properties from anion exchangers of similar capacities prepared in aqueous media. Ability of amino groups to catalyze cellulose-epoxide reactions was not significantly different in DEAE-cottons prepared in nonaqueous and in aqueous media.
Preliminary Studies of the Fractography of Fibers and Other Polymeric Materials in the Scanning Electron Microscope
Authors: Mckee A.N. , Beattie C.L.
Published: March 2008

This paper describes a manipulative stage which can be used to vary the strain applied to fibers, yarns, fabrics, or films within the evacuated specimen chamber of a Cambridge Stereoscan SEM. In another similar stage, an object can be twisted or rotated about its axis so that its complete periphery may be examined.

Some of the problems encountered, such as the difficulty in maintaining a conductive surface, are considered. Qualita tive observations of the fracture characteristics of some types of natural and commercial man-made fibers strained in tensile, loop tensile, and knot tensile tests are presented, as well as some observations on fibers subjected to twisting forces. Finally, observations on the tearing,of a photographic film are recorded.
Wrinkled Fabrics, Optical Illusions, and the FRL® Topometer 1
Authors: Abbott N.J.
Published: March 2008

The visual assessment of the degree of wrinkling in a fabric is influenced by the contour of the wrinkled surface, the color of the fabric, and the pattern or texture which may exist. Subjective evaluations often show inconsistencies between observers, which are related to the degree to which they allow the color, pattern, and texture effects to influence their judgment of wrinkle severity. An instrument has been developed which permits a numerical assessment of the effect of wrinkling on the uniformity of appearance of a fabric. This assessment is shown to correlate well with visual assessment, using the Munsell gray scale to create synthetic appearance unevenness.
Compression of Oriented Nylon Parallel to Fiber Axis
Authors: Miles John B.
Published: March 2008

A method was developed for preparing small specimens of oriented nylon 6-10 bristle suitable for the measurement of the behavior in compression parallel to the direction of orientation. The stress-strain curve in compression differed markedly from the tensile curve, being sharply bent toward the elongation axis. At room temperature, the stress reached a maximum of 0.45 g/den at about 10% strain, and at 100°C this maximum was reduced to 0.18 g/den at 6% strain. Con trary to the indications of the stress-strain curves, the elastic recoveries from up to 20% strain in compression and tension were quite similar. At 100°C, however, the elastic recovery in compression was greatly reduced, strains above about 5% being unrecoverable. The rate of stress relaxation in tension and compression were compared. Both the tensile and compression relationships must be known to predict bending behavior. An example analyzed indicates that, in a bend of radius of curvature 10 times that of the fiber, the maximum strain in compression on the inside of the bend is 50% greater than that in tension on the outside.
Diffusion and Copolymerization of Polyacrylic Acid in Nylon 66 Fibers
Authors: Arons Gilbert N. , Peirent Robert J. , Macnair Richard N.
Published: March 2008

Polyacrylic acid (PAA) was applied to a plain-weave nylon 66 fabric from solution at an elevated temperature and pressure. Excess solution was squeezed out and the fabric was oven-dried, heat-cured, and hot water-scoured. The weight of PAA, up to 6% fixed to the nylon, varied inversely with the pH of the PAA solution. Cured fabric with 6% fixed PAA, when converted to the sodium and potassium salts, had moisture regain values comparable to those for cotton. The calcium salt increased the melting temperature of the nylon.

Cross sections, of yarns teased from this fabric, stained with a cationic dye revealed that PAA had penetrated the in dividual fibers. This type of polymer diffusion has not been reported previously.

The PAA-nylon product isolated from the cured fabric differed from the reactants in solubility, thermal characteristics, and ir absorption. These facts suggest that the PAA had reacted chemically with the nylon. Less PAA reacted when the amine end groups of nylon were blocked, indicating that, in addition to a block copolymer, a graft copolymer formed.
Poly (1, 3, 4)-Benzimidazole
Authors: Ross Jack H. , Schulman Stanley , Stanton Robert M.
Published: March 2008

Fibers formed from poly(1,3,4)-benzimidazole (PBI) have been spun, using the cotton system, into yarns and woven into a series of plain- and twill-weave fabrics. The high moisture regain (10-13%), good abrasion resistance, and high degree of heat-blocking, in addition to nonflammability in air, has resulted in PBI being considered for Air Force personnel protection systems.

Laboratory and field evaluation of PBI fabrics in protection system configurations compared to currently used fabrics demonstrated the superior nonflammability of PBI. Based on data obtained, extensive wear testing of flight coveralls is to be initiated.
The Bending Behavior of Fabrics at High Curvatures
Authors: Skelton John
Published: March 2008

A new experimental method is described that permits the simultaneous determination of bending hysteresis and the flexural rigidity of textile or other flexible materials over a wide range of curvatures. Results are presented that show the variation of these two properties with material, fabric structure, and fabric finish. It is shown that results obtained with this method are in good agreement with those obtained by established methods.
The Mechanics of Bicomponent Fibers
Authors: El-Shiekh Aly , Bogdan J.F. , Gupta R.K.
Published: March 2008

An analytical approach has been adopted to predict the amount of bulk that would develop in a hicomponent fiber having particular geometric distribution of the components of known physical properties.

Theoretical expressions have been developed to predict the geometry and mechanical properties of bicomponent struc tures. In particular, an analytical relation has been developed for the radius of the loop of such a structure in terms of strains in the components and their physical dimensions and elastic moduli. The radius of the loop has been related to the bulk ratio. Expressions have also been derived to predict the load elongation relation for the coiled bicomponent structure
On the Torsion Constant of Cotton Fibers
Authors: Cheng C.C. , Duckett K.E.
Published: March 2008

The measurement of the torsion constant of cotton fibers is usually determined by the single-fiber method. The bundle method proves to be faster, and the determination of this physical property by the bundle method is analyzed and the experimental results are discussed.
Effect of Enzymes and Enzyme-Containing Detergent On Strength of Untreated Woolen Fabrics
Authors: Friedman Mendel
Published: March 2008

Untreated knit and woven woolen fabrics, soaked in a constant-temperature bath at 40°C up to 10 days in the presence of a detergent and an enzyme preparation used in home laundry formulations, were weakened. The loss in strength is related to soaking time and enzyme concentration and is accompanied by a loss in weight. In the case of knits, a semi- logarithmic plot of strength loss against soaking time is biphasic. In the case of woven fabrics, loss in strength is a nearly linear function of soaking time. These results suggest that repeated use of enzyme-containing detergents for soaking and washing wool fabrics and garments may be damaging.
Temporary and Permanent Fiber-Friction Increases Induced by Corona Treatment
Authors: Thorsen Walter J.
Published: March 2008

"Frictionizing" textile fibers by corona treatment produces larger effects than conventional chemical methods. A marked increase in wool fiber friction occurs, both with and against the scales. For wool, the increase in with-scale fric tion decays slowly with time after treatment; against-scale friction does not. Initial cohesiveness of air-corona treated wool roving increases 230%, but then, reflecting the decay of with-scale single-fiber friction, decreases slowly with time toa residual cohesiveness 32% above that of untreated roving. Residual cohesiveness is responsible for improved wool yarn spinnability and tensile strength.

Untreated mohair fiber friction is much less than that of untreated wool, but after corona treatment the friction values become comparable. However, treated mohair differs from treated wool in that its with-scale friction after treatment does not decrease. Increased mohair fiber cohesiveness improves yarn tensile strength 31% Injection of dilute chlorine gas into the reactor greatly reduces the required corona treatment time and indicates the feasihility of high-speed corona processing of mohair.

Cotton roving cohesiveness is increased initially by chlorine-corona treatment to four times its original value, but then its cohesiveness diminishes much more rapidly than in the case of wool. The residual cohesiveness increases cotton yarn tensile strength by 24%. It appears that the very high cohesiveness of wool and cotton roving immediately after treat ment, if followed by immediate processing, can be used to further improve spinning beyond that achieved when treatment is followed by delayed processing.
Interferometric Studies of Fibers
Authors: Barakat N. , El-Hennawi H.A.
Published: March 2008

Interferometric determination of the principal refractive indices for light vibrating parallel and perpendicular to the fiber axis and the birefringence for Acrilan® have been carried out. Multiple-beam Fizeau fringes in transmission were used for fibers of irregular cross sections. A new method suitable for evaluating small birefringence in fibers was applied. Variation of refractive index with temperature was also determined. The fringes of equal chromatic order were applied for determining the birefringence of the fibers with diameters of 15-40 microns.
Some Studies on the Formation and Removal of Fiber Hooks
Authors: Wagle N.P. , Govindarajulu R.
Published: March 2008

A study was made of the effect of cylinder-doffer setting in the card on hook formation, and the influence of drafting direction on U-shaped hook removal, regularity of output sliver, and yarn properties. The results show that the U-shaped hooks are present in the card sliver to the extent of about 13-22%. The cylinder-doffer setting influences trailinq hooks in East African cotton. The regularity of card sliver increases with windening of cylinder-doffer setting. The U-shaped hooks are removed to a considerable extent during drafting, but always at a lesser degree than total hooks. The drawing sliver drafted with majority hooks in the trailing way gives more regular output sliver, with respect to both short-term and long-term evenness, than that in the leading way. The yarns spun with majority hooks drafted on ring frame as trailing hooks give higher single-thread strength, compared to those as leading hooks.
Soiling Properties of Wool Fabrics
Authors: Benisek L. , Crawshaw G.H.
Published: March 2008

Laboratory soiling and cleaning trials on nine different fibers in woven fabrics of comparable construction revealed that wool has better overall soiling properties than manmade fibers.

Finer wools become soiled more easily than coarser wools; finer yarns soil less than coarser yarns; and resistance to soiling is also slightly improved by higher yarn twist. Soil release and soil redeposition of wool fabrics are only slightly - influenced by fiher fineness, yarn twist, and yarn count. With increasing cover factor, the knitted fabric soils less, because of the tighter construction, but soil release is inhibited slightly. The effect of fiber, yarn, and fabric construction on the scattering coefficient and its influence on "visible" soiling is discussed.

By suitable choice of yarn and fabric construction, the soiling properties of wool garments can be noticeably improved.
Soiling Properties of Wool Fabrics
Authors: Benisek L. , Crawshaw G.H.
Published: March 2008

Chemical degradative processes used for shrink proofing treatment improve significantly the soiling properties of wool, presumably by smoothening the fiber surface and increasing its hydrophilic properties. The improvement depends on the level of shrink resistance.

Resin-shrinkproofing treatments often impair the good natural soiling properties of wool, depending on the surface energy, hardness, and zeta potential of the resin.

Bleaching wool by hydrogen peroxide also improves significantly its resistance to soiling and ease of soil release in wash ing. Reductive bleaching has a slightly lower beneficial effect. Flat-setting treatments with reducing agents also slightly improve the soiling properties of wool fabrics.

In order to obtain the optimal soil release properties in washing, the pH of wool and the washing liquor should be > 7.

The oil content of wool fibers has an important influence on soiling, increasing soil retention and improving soil release in washing or dry-cleaning. From the point of view of soiling, wool garments should not have more than 0.5% oil content.

Due to their strongly hydrophobic properties, water-repellent agents, with the exception of fluorocarbons, significantly impair soiling, desoiling, and soil redeposition in washing.

Block copolymers of fluorocabrons and polyethyleneoxides are the only repellents which do not impair the good, natural soiling properties of wool. In fact, they possess a certain degree of soil repettency.
Fibrous Structure Formation in Cold-Drawing of Polyethylene
Authors: Muzzy John D. , Hansen David
Published: March 2008

Rods of spherulitic, linear polyethylene were cold-drawn at 60 and 100°C and the morphology of the drawn material, particularly the necked portion, was characterized by light and electron microscopy and by wide- and small-angle x-ray scattering. The drawing proceeded by neck formation and propagation at a draw ratio of 10. Further extension or creep beyond the neck produced draw ratios up to 20. Neck formation was characterized by spherulites deforming essentially in concert with the macroscopic deformation, becoming elongated and oriented and, thereby, defining a gross fibrous structure.

Very early in the process of neck formation, small disruptions appeared within the spherulites. Similar to crazes in amorphous materials, these disruptions measured a few microns long, perpendicular to the direction of deformation, and a fraction of a micron thick. The disruptions increased in size and number as drawing progressed, dominated the structure at the higher draw ratios, and oriented to define a fine, fibrillar structure. These observations are contrasted with the rather different results obtained in an earlier, similar study of the cold-drawing of nylon 66.
Improvement of Cotton Spinnability, Strength, and Abrasion Resistance by Corona Treatment
Authors: Thorsen W.J.
Published: March 2008

A pilot-scale corona reactor was adapted to process cotton sliver. Corona treatment improved cotton spinnability and increased yarn and fabric strength and abrasion resistance. Treatment effectiveness was greatest at 93-96°C with the injection of dilute chlorine gas into the corona cell. Dyeability was unaltered, cotton wax was not removed or oxidized, and fiber hand was unaffected by air corona treatments. Slight harshening occured in air-chlorine corona treatments, but this can be overcome by a softener.
Wearing and Washing Performance of Wool/Nylon Blend Socks
Authors: Baird K. , David H.G.
Published: March 2008

Three wearer trials of mens socks are described. The trials tested the efficacy of the shrinkproofing treatments and the effect of blend ratio upon wear life. The 80/20 wool/nylon socks had about three times the wear life of similar pure wool socks. No socks failed through shrinkage. The wear life was unaffected by the type of shrinkproofing treatment. The socks which lost least fiber during wear and which retained the best appearance were those which had been treated with resin after manufacture. Irrespective of blends socks appear to be in moisture equilibrium with RH between 65 and 85%.
Accessibility of Cotton Cellulose by Deuterium Exchange
Authors: Rousselle Marie-Alice , Nelson Mary L.
Published: March 2008

Dechant's method for determining the total accessibility of cellulose by exchange with deuterium oxide was modified for routine use with cotton fibers. Deuterated cotton was allowed to re-exchange with water or aqueous sodium hydroxide solution and the deuterium oxide content of the liquid used for re-exchange was determined by measurement of ir absorb ence at 2510 cm 1. Sodium hydroxide solution (20%) was found to bring about re-exchange of that fraction of OD-groups which resist re-exchange with water, as demonstrated by ir spectra of deuterated and rehydrogenated cotton fibers. Ac cessibility to deuterium exchange was determined for selected cotton and rayon fibers and three series of immature cotton fibers. 'I'hese measurements correlated well with measurements of moisture regain and iodine sorption value made to obtain other estimates of the accessibility of the fibers.
A Rapid and Reproducible Method for the Determination of Dry-Soil Resistance
Authors: Kissa Erik
Published: March 2008

A rapid and reproducible method is described for measurement of adsorption of particulate solids on fabrics or films and evaluation of dry-soil resistance. An Accelerotor drives the soil and samples along a circular path within a chamber. Impingement and degree of soiling can be continuously varied by changing the speed of the Accelerotor, the duration of soiling, and the amount of soil.

Soiling values of the new method correlate with soil resistance data obtained by other soiling methods involving me chanical work, such as tumbling and rubbing. A correlation exists also with nonabrasive soiling of stationary fabrics, unless the construction of the fabrics is markedly different or the transport of soil to the fiber surface determines soiling.

Simultaneous soiling of different fabrics was found to be competitive. Fabrics with the least soil resistance were preferentially soiled at the expense of the more soil-resistant fabrics. This alternative procedure has been used to enhance soil-resistance differences for visual evaluation.

It is shown that the resistance of a fluoropolymer-trealed fabric to oily particulate soil is not a function of its oil repel lency, but depends upon the nature of the polymeric finish, the substrate, and surface coverage.
Soil-Release Properties Imparted to Polyester /Cotton Fabrics by Alkali Treatment
Authors: Liljemark N. Thomas , Åsnes Harald
Published: March 2008

Treatment of fabrics containing polyester with strong alkali (of saponification strength) imparts pigment soil-release properties equivalent to those obtained by conventional Soil-Release finishes. The soil-release effect achieved by alkali treatment has excellent fastness to repeated washings. Their washfastness indicates some modification of the chemical constitution of the fiber surface as a result of the partial surface saponification; this is also indicated by an increased wetta bility.
The Fractography of Cotton Fibers
Authors: Hearle J.W.S. , Sparrow J.T.
Published: March 2008

Cotton fibers were broken under a variety of conditions and the fractures were examined in a scanning electron micro scope. Many fractures occur adjacent to the reversal zone and not through it, indicating that the reversal itself is strong, but, because of its existence in the fiber, it is a source of weakness in that it is the cause of fracture in a region adjacent to the reversal. The appearance of the fractures varies between cross-linked and scoured cotton and between fractures at a reversal and between reversals.
The Effect of Disorientation and Direction of Hooks in the Input Sliver on Drafting Irregularities and Yarn Quality
Authors: Balasubramanian N. , Bhatnagar V.K.
Published: March 2008

In the present work, the effect of some factors on drafting irregularities has been examined at the different stages of processing and under varying drafting conditions. Investigations on sliver-to-yarn spinning system showed that feeding majority hooks in the leading direction contributed to more irregularities and the size of the effect was not dependent upon the draft or the count spun. Direction of feed of the hooks has no significant effects on irregularities at the can-fed speed frame under normal conditions. But at wider roller settings and with high fiber disorder in the input sliver, feeding the hooks as leading contributed to more drafting irregularities even at the speed frame. Again, drafting direction assumed significant influence on irregularities when very fine roving hanks were prepared by using high drafts at the speed frames. The studies also indicated poorer drafting at the front (apron) zone, with low drafts at the back zone in can-fed speed frames. Condensation of the strands between the zones helped to improve the drafting quality at the front zone. The incorporation of two additional drawing passages to the second-passage drawing sliver led to better drafting and improved regularity at speed frames as well as ring frames; this effect could be utilized to upgrade the evenness of carded cotton and man-made fiber yarns.
Mechanics of Elastic Performance of Textile Materials
Authors: Skelton J. , Freeston W.D.
Published: March 2008

A theoretical analysis of the shear deformation of a fabric under biaxial load was carried out and the amount of twisting deformation of spherical inflated structures made from skewed fabric was calculated and compared with the twisting observed in a model structure. A device was constructed for the measurement of the shear resistance of fabrics, and determinations of this property were made on a range of fabrics in the off-loom, heat-set, and coated states. The theo retical expressions and the experimental results are used to show that twisting deformations could be important in full- scale structures.
A Scanning Electron-Microscope Study of Starches
Authors: Hall David M. , Sayre Joseph G.
Published: March 2008

The shapes and surface structure of eleven starches—peas (wrinkled, smooth-shell, chick, and black-eyed), cowcockles, acorns, sagos, beans (tender white, pinto and lima), shoti, dieffenbachia, pineapples, peanuts, tamarinds and chestnuts— were examined with a scanning electron microscope (SEM). The details seen in the three-dimensional images were compared with those seen in the two dimensional optical microscope views. Attempts were made to relate the surface details of the starch to possible layering and membrane phenomenon. Comparisons of surface detail seen with the metal- coated starch and the transparent sphereocrystal seen in the light-microscope views have allowed some speculations on the internal structures of some of the granules.
Practical Methods for Purification of Anionic Dyes as Their Sodium, Potassium and Lithium Salts
Authors: Hall David M. , Perkins Warren S.
Published: March 2008

Anionic dyestuffs having high purity can be obtained employing standard recrystsllization techniques. The dye may be obtained as the sodium, potassium or lithium salt. The free acid form of the dye is dissolved in butanol. Impurities are removed during partition with water. The metal salt of the dye is obtained by adding the appropriate alkali. Alter natively, dimethyl formamide (DMF) is employed to extract the dye from the ionic impurities. The sodium salt of the dye is recovered. The free acid may be obtained using DMF-acid extraction followed by conversion to the desired metal salt with alkali. The purification and characterization of four direct dyes (C. I. Direct Red 2, C. I. Direct Yellow 12, C. I. Direct Blue 78, C. I. Direct Green 26) and two acid dyes (C. I. Acid Red 85, C. I. Acid Blue 78) is described.
The Cadoxen Swelling Test for the Evaluation of Cross-linking of Cotton
Authors: Schefer Werner
Published: March 2008

A test method is described based on the cellulose swelling agent cadoxen, a complex compound of cadmium and ethylene diamine. On centrifuging swollen fiber samples under standard conditions, the amount of imbibed cadoxen is shown to be related to the degree of cross-linking. Correlations with wrinkle recovery and wash/wear performance are shown, and it is suggested that the test is useful in evaluating the efficiency of cross-linking finishes.
Effects of Constructional Factors on the Burning Rates of Textile Structures
Authors: Miller Bernard , Coswami Bhuvenesh C.
Published: March 2008

The burning behavior of thermoplastic fabrics has been studied in terms of the form or gross structural shape in which they are presented to their own flame front. Using the TRI Flammability Analyzer, mass burning rates through ma terials in any chosen direction were measured at various levels of atmospheric oxygen concentration. Gross differences in burning behavior were observed, reflecting the influence of such factors as weave patterns, yarn twist, and linear density. Studies on multilayer structures revealed that double layers of thermoplastic fabrics burn faster than single layers. Ex planations for some of the observed phenomena are offered in terms of mechanical and heat transfer factors.
Differentiation between the Various Species of Free Radicals Appearing in Irradiated Keratin
Authors: Shatkay Adam
Published: March 2008

The various species of free radicals formed on irradiation of wool keratin are compared as a function of power during EPR measurements, and as a function of the shape of the EPR signals during decay. It is shown that the change of size of the signal as a function of power is different for some different species of radicals, even though they may usually appear under common envelopes. Thus a method is available to study separately the behavior of the various species of radicals in wool having a common EPR envelope. Inspection of spectra of irradiated wool during decay in the dark reveals that one species of glycine-type radical diminishes, while another species of glycine-tye radical increases. This suggests that the kinetics of various radical species in wool are interdependent.
Strain Recovery of Twisted Viscose Rayon
Authors: Zurek Witold , Godon Jadwiga
Published: March 2008

Based on the permanent strain of the fiber as a function of total strain of fiber and yarn parameters, the permanent strain of twisted and plied rayons can be computed. Experiments performed on the single and twisted rayon with various twists showed good agreement between computed and experimental values.
Synthesis of Chlorodeoxycellulose and its Conversion to 5,6-Cefluloseen
Authors: Srivastava H.C. , Harshe S.N. , Gharia M.M.
Published: March 2008

Reaction of cellulose acetate with methylsulfonyl chloride in N,N-dimethylformamide has been studied under different conditions of time, temperature and concentration of the reagent. Using this method, chlorodeoxycellulose of a D.S. as high as 0.58 has been prepared. The reaction has also been applied to purified cotton linters to yield chlorodeoxycellulose. Attempts to prepare this cellulose derivative by reaction of cellulose acetate with acetyl chloride, anhydrous aluminum chloride and magnesium chloride in N,N-dimethylformamide were unsuccessful.

5, 6-celluloseen is obtained by dehydrohalogenation of the chlorodeoxycelluloses either with dry methanolic potassium hydroxide or with potassium tert. butoxide in dimethyl sulfoxide. With the latter reagent the conversion of chloro deoxycellulose to celluloseen is almost quantitative.
Photoinitiated Polymerization of Methacrylamide with Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Reine Alden H. , Arthur Jett C.
Published: March 2008

Unsensitized, photoinitiated copolymerization of methacrylamide with cotton cellulose, using 3500Å light, is reported. The extent of copolymerization was dependent on irradiation time and monomer concentration. Photopolymerization was almost totally inhibited when irradiation was conducted in the presence of oxygen, for example, in air. The moisture regains of cotton-poly(methacrylamide) fabric copolymers increased with increased polymer content. The copolymers were stable to hot water; however, on trea'tment of the copolymers with sodium hydroxide solutions, a fraction of the amide groups was converted to carboxyl groups. The fabric copolymers had elongations-at-break slightly greater than that of untreated cotton and retained about 90% of the breaking strength and 70% of the tearing strength of untreated cotton even at the highest polymer add-on.
Substantivity of Polyethylenimines on Cotton Fabric
Authors: Wade C.P. , Roberts E.J. , Rowland S.P.
Published: March 2008

Samples of cotton print cloth were impregnated with 10% solutions of polyethylenimines of various molecular weights, line-dried or oven-dried, and then subjected to ten standard laundering and drying cycles. Analysis for retention of the polyethylenimine (PEI) on cotton fabric through a series of ten laundering cycles showed that substantivity increased with increasing molecular weight of PEI. The effect of oven-drying of PEI-cotton fabric was to increase the retention of PEI over that on line-dried samples; the magnitude of the increase was tmoportional to the moledular weight of the PEI. Fabric properties are described.
Fiber Migration in Staple Yarns
Authors: Gupta Bhupender S.
Published: March 2008

A detailed study is made of the effects of yarn size and twist on fiber migration in staple yarns. A simple theoretical model is developed to calculate migration force in a surface fiber as a function of yarn size, twist and processing tension. The theoretical model proved useful, not only in explaining the experimental results, but also in providing some unex pected additional information. In particular, it demonstrates that some scatter of data in experimental results can be expected theoretically. Among all the variables considered thus far in this series of papers [1, 2], yarn size and twist appear to be the most influential variables controlling fiber migration in staple yarns.
Effect of Drying and Heat-Setting Temperatures on the Removal Characteristics of Polyvinyl Alcohol Size
Authors: Lyons Donald W. , Olson Edward S.
Published: March 2008

Polyvinyl alcohol applied to cotton/polyester fabrics was dried, then heat-set using temperatures ranging from 95 to 165°C. The samples were washed in water baths ranging in temperature from 45 to 85°C. Measurements of the amount of size removed during washing showed that the heat-setting temperature altered the ease of removal. Insight into the film structure of PVA which has been heat-set was gained using differential thermal analysis.
Ballistic Impact of Textile Structures
Authors: Roylance David , Wilde Anthony , Tocci Gregory
Published: March 2008

Previous work on transverse impact of single textile fibers is reviewed and extended to model orthogonal weaves in which fiber crossovers are simplified as pin. joints. A dynamic finite-element computer technique previously developed for single fibers is extended to model the woven panel, and this method is shown to produce results which are in sub stantial agreement with experimental observations of ballistic nylon panels. Impact of a woven textile panel is shown to exhibit substantial differences compared to the equivalent impact of a single fiber, primarily in that the propagating strain waves experience pervasive and complex interactions due to the influence of the fiber crossovers. The vast majority of ballistic energy is seen to be deposited in the orthogonal fibers passing through the impact point, while the other fibers are essentially ineffective, which suggests possible improvements in the design of textile structures intended for dynamic impact applications.
Mechanism of Failure in Women's Hosiery
Authors: Gibson J.W.
Published: March 2008

Analysis of failure in women's hosiery reveals that hose durability is strongly related to the amount of stretch in the hose as well as to yarn strength. Although snagging is the major cause of hose failure, only about 1% of the total snags result in failure because the snagging force is usually removed or reduced prior to yarn breakage. At equivalent yarn breaking strength, hose from stretch yarns are more durable than nonstretch hose because longer snags develop and reduce the probability of the snagged yarn exceeding its breaking strength. Long snags occur when the hosiery structure collapses easily and there is low resistance to yarn withdrawal. A high propensity for snagging, irrespective of snag length, does not necessarily result in poor durability and evidence is presented to show this. The analysis of the above mechanism of failure is supported by wear test data with both stretch and conventional hose.
Chemical and Physical Properties of Cotton Modified by N-Methylol Agents
Authors: Vail Sidney L. , Verburg Gerald B.
Published: March 2008

The chemical structure of the finish obtained from melamine-hased reagents depends primarily on the constitution of the reactant and the reaction conditions. Attempts are made to follow the reaction of these various reagents from the pad bath formulation to the finished fabric under reaction conditions of interest to the textile industry. Specific reactions discussed include hydrolysis, alkylation, demethylolation, and polymerization. The formation of oxydimethylene links from methylolated amides under acidic and basic conditions are considered and the conclusions applied to textile treat ments. Reaction conditions include those for conventional pad-dry-cure treatments and wet or steaming treatments.
Adsorption of Particulate Solids on Textiles1
Authors: Kissa Erik
Published: March 2008

Adsorption uf particulate solids and synthetic soil on cellulose and synthetic fabrics has been studied by a dynamic method involving high speed rotation of the solid and the substrate in a closed chamber. The results confirm that adhesion, and not mechanical entrapment, is the dominant soiling mechanism. Adsorption of particulate matter on the fiber surface increases with increasing pressure and mechanical work done during the soiling process. Some desorption of already adsorbed solid particles occurs because of abrasion; fibers with a higher toughness index retain adsorbed particles more firmly. The amount of particulate matter adsorbed on the fabric increases with the increasing amount of soil contacted with the fabric. A linear log-log plot of the two amounts resembles formally the Freundlich adsorption iso therm. The amount of soil adsorbed increases linearly with the logarithm of soiling time; the kinetics are apparently of second order. A linear relationship exists also between the amount of soil adsorbed and the reciprocal of rotational velocity of the impeller driving the solid and the substrate. It is shown that fabrics with different construction respond differently to the mechanical action of the soiling process. The geometry of the fabric can be a more important factor determining soil resistance than the chemical composition of the fiber.

A surface film of either hydrophilic or hydrophobic liquids on hydrophilic or hydrophobic fibers increases soil adsorption.
Strength Losses and Structural Changes in Cotton Fabric Crosslinked with Dimethylolethyleneurea 1
Authors: Segal Leon , Timpa Judy D.
Published: March 2008

Losses in tensile and tearing strengths and other physical properties of cotton fabric given durable-press finishes have been attributed to factors arising mainly from the crosslinking of the cellulose molecule. This conclusion was deduced from the results of textile testing of the treated fabrics. In order to define the sources of these strength losses, a study was made of cotton fabric treated with dimethylolethylene urea and a zinc nitrate catalyst in a commercial manner, but with varying times of cure. Heretofore unobtainable molecular parameters of durahle-press cotton fabric were estab lished from solubilized samples. Correlations made between physical properties of the fabric and the fine-structural features of the fiber, both of which were measured, estahlished the fractions of losses arising from molecular degradation and from crosslink embrittlement as a function of the extent of cure. In the shorter cure times, the predominant strength loss came from crosslink embritttement, but this proportion dropped rapidty and molecular degradation became the major source. Changes in degree of polymerization suggest that the catalyzed crosslinking reaction produces a limited chain extension of the cellulose molecule which becomes evident after removal of the crosslinks.
ALMI-Set Process
Authors: Payet George L.
Published: March 2008

A SO2-catalyzed vapor-phase formaldehyde-crosslinking process was commercialized by the ALMI-Set Process. The reactor gives garments of unusual ability to wash and dry and to be wrinkle-free.
Lactamide Modification of Durable-Press Resins
Authors: Ohlson John L.
Published: March 2008

Lactamide and N-methylollactamide have been used to modify conventional ethyleneurea-formaldehyde, prolylene urea-formaldehyde, dihydroxyethyleneurea-formaldehyde, and other resins. The effect of these modified resins is great est when they are used on 100% cotton fabrics. In general, while developing a desirable wash and wear rating, physical properties such as abrasion resitance, tensile strength and elongation are significantly increased. Lactamide also seems to have a definite favorable effect on the hand and on the bulkiness of the fabric. Lactamide modified resins have also been applied to cotton-polyester blends where they improve the resistance of the fabric to frosting as well as improving other properties.
Chemicals Used as Spin-Finishes for Man-Made Fibers
Authors: Redston J.P. , Berkholz W.F. , Schlatter C.
Published: March 2008

The necessity and difficulty of developing an ideal formulation of a chemical coating for optimum man-made fiber processing on textile equipment under varying conditions is stressed. In the absence of such a coating, the fiber has little economic value. The phrase "spin-finish" is defined. The various compounds chiefly used are listed by chemical classes under luhricants without surface activity, external antistatic agents for surface of fiters, and emulsifiers having lubricating function. The necessary properties of components and blends are discussed. Patents covering spin-finishes are reviewed for the years following the introduction of the first man-made fiber nylon in 1938. Reference is made to concepts found in new patents for internal antistatic agents and for new fibers. Suggestions for synthesis of new compounds with enhanced properties are made. The bibliography covers 80 patent and literature references.
Friction and Lubrication of Synthetic Fibers Part IV: Effect of Fiber Material and Lubricant Viscosity and Concentration
Authors: Schic M.J.
Published: March 2008

The effects of fiber material, lubricant viscosity, and concentration on friction of multifilament yarns are presented. Under conditions of good wetting, friction is independent of lubricant viscosity in the boundary region, but highly de pendent on lubricant viscosity in the hydrodynamic region. In contrast, under conditions of poor wetting, friction is independent of lubricant viscosity in both regions. Friction levels off to a plateau at a lubricant concentration of 0.5% weight on fabric (wof). The dominant factors in boundary tubrication are the geometry and wetting of the sliding surfaces, whereas in hydrodynamic lubrication both wetting of the sliding surfaces and the viscosity of the lubricant are of eyual importance.
Strain-Wave Reflections During Ballistic Impact of Fabric Panels
Authors: Freeston W. Denney , Claus William D.
Published: March 2008

A numerical model is presented which describes the strain level build-up in yarns due to multiple strain wave reflections from yarn crossover intersections in a woven fabric subject to ballistic impact. Crossing yarns present barriers from which strain waves are partially reflected. The maximum yarn strain occurs at the point of impact and decays with distance along the yarn away from this point. The rapidity of decay is governed by the crossover reflection coefficient. Using observations of the deformation cone size of ballistically impacted fabric panels, it is concluded that the reflection coef ficient is small (approximately 0.01). The strain increases with time at different rates for different reflection coefficients until failure at the impact point. Extensions of this model to other fibrous structures are discussed.
Recurable Durable-Press Fabrics
Authors: Franklin W.E. , Madacsi J.P. , Rowland S.P.
Published: March 2008

Cotton twill fabric was treated by a pad-dry-cure process with combinations of DMDHEU and several potycarboxytic acids. Fabrics were prepared with several ratios of catalytic rarhoxylic acid groups to DHEU residues in the modified cellulose. The wrinkle-recovery angles, durable-press appearance ratings, and strength retentions of these fabrics were equivalent to or slightly better than those imparted by the conventional DMDHEU-MgCl2 treatment. The fabrics were analyzed for nitrogen, formaldehyde, ester linkages, and free carboxytic acid groups. The ratios of formaldehyde residues to DHEU residues in the cured experimental fabrics decrease with increasing wrinkle-recovery angles of the fabric. These fabrics showed very good recurahility when prepared with selected polycartroxylic acids, e.g., citric, cyctopentanetetra cartroxylic, and tetrahydrofurantetracarboxylic acids. The rerurahility was lost by converting the free carboxyl groups in the fabric to salt forms, but was restored when the free carboxyl groups were regenerated.