bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Reactive Dyes Containing Phosphonic and Carboxylic Acid Reactive Groupings and Their Reactions with Cellulose
Authors: Nkeonye Peter O
Published: July 2010

Factors influencing the fixation efficiency on cotton of reactive dyes containing phosphonic and carboxylic acid groupings have been briefly investigated and inferences made. Reactions of some carboxylic acids with some alcohols, including acetylcellulose, in the presence of carbodiimides, including cyanamide and dicyandiamide, have also been undertaken and the reaction products analysed and quantified by n.m.r. and micro‐analytical techniques. The results of these studies have given a strong indication of the dye‐fibre product formed when a carboxylated dye is reacted with cellulose in the presence of a carbodiimide. High‐temperature steam fixation of dye in the presence of cyanamide and dicyandiamide has in addition been studied. The level of dye fixation achieved by high‐temperature steaming was found to be partly limited by hydrolytic deactivation of carbodiimide under such conditions, while loss of carbodiimide by thermal decomposition has been identified as the single most important factor which limits the optimum level of dye fixation on baking.
Foam Generation in Rotor‐Stator Mixers
Authors: Kroezen A B J , Wassink J Groot
Published: July 2010

One of the unit operations in foam technology is foam generation in a liquid/gas mixer. The foaming process of an aqueous liquid system with a surface‐active agent in a rotor‐stator mixer has been studied, and it was found that it could be represented by a mixing characteristic relating the liquid flow rate to the maximum gas flow rate needed to produce a foam without ‘blow‐by’. Too high a gas flow rate resulted in a short‐circuiting flow of gas via the rotor shaft to the outlet. The influence of the number of rotor‐stator blades, equipment size and operating pressure on the behaviour of the foam mixer has been investigated.
N‐Alkylbetaines in Wool Dyeing
Authors: Cegarra J. , Riva A.
Published: July 2010

The influence of N‐alkylbetaines, with alkyl chain lengths from eight to 18 carbon atoms, on the dyeing of wool with acid dyes has been studied. In the first part of the study the presence of N‐alkylbetaines was found to cause spectral changes of the dye in solution, and two clearly differentiated dissociation stages have been observed. These represent the formation of dye‐betaine complexes and the solubilisation of these complexes in the betaine micelles. The second part of the study examined how the presence of betaines influenced dyeing kinetics. Generally N‐alkylbetaines were found to increase the rate of dyeing, the type and amount of betaine present being important factors.
Dyeing of Nylon Fabrics with an Acid Dye in a Rotating‐disc Contactor
Authors: Sada E , Kumazawa H , Ando T
Published: July 2010

The kinetics of dyeing a nylon fabric with an acid dye (C. I. Acid Blue 182) were investigated using a rotating‐disc contactor, and were analysed in terms of intrapolymer diffusion with trimodal (one Nernst‐type and two Langmuir‐types) adsorption. The resistance of mass transfer from liquor to film in film dyeing was found to be negligible relative to resistance inside the film. The effective interfilament diffusion coefficient in the fabric was found to be dependent on the rotational speed of the disc. It appears that the process of dyeing nylon fabric with an acid dye might be governed by interfilament diffusion of dye in the fabric rather than mass transfer from liquor to fabric and intrafilament diffusion.
Absorption Spectra of Some Phenothiazinequinonoid Dyes
Authors: Matsuoka Masaru , Kim Sung Hoon , Kubo Yuji , Takagi Koichi , Kitao Teijiro
Published: July 2010

Phenothiainquinonoid dyes were found to absorb at much longer wavelengths(50–70 nm) than the corresponding phenoxazinequinone and N, N‐dihydrophenzinequinone analogues, and are approximately 100 nm more bathochromic than the corresponding arylaminoanthraquinoid dyes. Several types of phenothiazinequinonoid spectra have been compared with those of the related quinonoid dyes. The effects of the epi‐thio group in phenothiazinequinones on their absorption spectra were evaluated by the PPP MO method, and the colour‐structure relationships for the related dyes are discussed.
Ecology, Beauty, Profits: Trade in Lichen‐based Dyestuffs through Western History
Authors: Perkins Patricia
Published: July 2010

This paper summarises what is known about the production and trade in orchil, viewing the dyestuffas an economic commodity. The slow‐growing ecologically sensitive lichens that furnish the raw material for the dyestuff were susceptible to overharvesting and depletion, and there is evidence to indicate that restricted availability of lichen supplies may have limited the use and trade of orchil at several points in history.
Quinonen‐Quinoneimine Tautomerism of Phenothiazine‐and Phenoselenazine‐quinonoid Dyes: Isolation of a Quinoneimine Tautomer
Authors: Matsuoka Masaru , Kim Sung Hoon , Kubo Yuji , Kitao Teijiro
Published: July 2010

Quinone‐quinoneimine tautomerism of phenothiazine‐and phenoselenazine‐quinonoid dyes has been investigated by means of their visible absorption spectra.
Performance of Fluorescent Whitening Agents for Polyester in a Yellowing Test with an Unrealistically High Concentration of Nitrogen Oxides
Authors: Reinehr D. , Schmidt E.
Published: July 2010

To test the yellowing tendency of FWAs for polyester on exposure to nitrogen oxides, McEwan and Murdoch proposed a rapid test using an unrealistically high concentration of these gases. Our studies have shown that this test induces yellowing reactions that are associated with the high nitrogen oxide concentration, but which do not occur under practical conditions.
The influence of amphoteric products on the affinity of wool for acid dyes*
Authors: Riva A. , Cegarra J.
Published: July 2010

This paper deals with the influence of N‐alkylbetaines and alkylamidobetaines on the levelling of acid dyes on wool. The effects of chemical composition of the betaines and their concentration in the dyebath on levelling have been studied. The relationship between levelling behaviour and variation in dye absorption has also been examined.
Soil deposition on shrink‐resist‐treated wool fabrics in the presence of anionic and non‐ionic surfactants
Authors: Fité F J Carrión
Published: July 2010

The deposition behaviour of carbon black on shrink‐resist‐treated wool fabric, and on untreated wool, in the presence of different mixtures of anionic and non‐ionic surfactants has been investigated. Two types of surfactant mixtures were studied; sodium dodecylbenzenesulphonate and sodium dioctylsulphosuccinate were used as anionic surfactants and Triton X‐100 as a non‐ionic surfactant. An electrokinetic study was also carried out, under similar conditions; the zeta potential was obtained, which was related to the amount of deposition found. From these zeta potential measurements the surface charge density was determined.
Spectrophotometric and potentiometric studies of chelates formed between some metals and some azo dyes
Authors: Dessouki H A , Ghonium A , Zaghloul A
Published: July 2010

The chelation of phenylazo derivatives of α‐and β‐naphthols with Co(II), Ni(II) and Cu(II) compounds have been studied in solution spectrophotometrically, while chelation with Ti(IV), Zr(II)O, Th(IV) and U(II)O2 compounds has been studied potentiometrically. The proton‐ligand stability constants, the formation constants and the coordination of the chelates have been determined.
The printing of polyester/cellulose blends‐a new approach
Authors: Provost John R , Connor H George
Published: July 2010

This paper introduces a new dye system for the printing of polyester/cellulose blends. The new system is based on a combination of disperse dyes containing diester groups and reactive dyes containing a monochloro‐s‐triazinyl reactive group. By reference to published work on the reaction mechanism of monochloro‐s‐triazinyl reactive dyes with cellulose the development of a new approach to bring about reactive dye fixation in essentially neutral pH conditions is discussed. Practical application details of the new dye system are emphasised.
The exploitation of colour physics technology in the textile industry‐A study in technology transfer
Authors: Park James
Published: July 2010

Whilst the technology is available for computer colour matching and quality control of the dyed shade, it is often difficult for the small textile dyeing company to assess the potential for this technology in its own operation. This paper describes a project, carried out with UK government financial assistance, in which a number of small dyeing firms have been assisted in evaluating this technology. Financial and technical benefits have been identified in all of the participant companies and a number of them have transferred the available technology into their production plants.
Cuticular “cell membrane complex‘ modification of wool fabrics by sulphite treatment in aqueous organic solvent media
Authors: Erra P. , Coderch L. , Juliá R. , Infante R. , Dominguez J García
Published: July 2010

Cuticle modification on knitted wool fabrics treated with sodium sulphite in an isopropanol water medium has been studied. Isolation of the cuticle and its components, as well as amino acid composition determinations after acid and enzymatic hydrolysis from untreated and treated wool, indicate only slight modification. However, from the amino acid composition of the lipoproteic material dissolved during the treatment and from transmission electron microscopic observations, a modification of the ft‐layer in the cuticle‐cuticle ‘cell membrane complex’ has been clearly observed.
The quantification of metamerism
Authors: Moradian S. , Riggf B.
Published: July 2010

The usefulness of various indices for quantifying metamerism has been assessed using a combination of different illuminants and light sources. Recommendations are made regarding the suitability of the indices considered.
Improved energy efficiency‐a case study
Authors: Roberts John G
Published: July 2010

This paper describes a case study showing the steps taken by Strines Textiles Ltd in its efforts to achieve increased energy efficiency in textile processing. Major cost savings, now assessed at £200,000 annually, have been achieved. The important role played by monitoring in providing incentive and the ability to chart progress toward targets is demonstrated. Some of the actions taken show that in the long term it may well be possible for dyeing/printing/finishing works to be operated without a boiler house.
The photosensitising properties and photostability of stilbene fluorescent whitening agents
Authors: Davidson R Stephen , Ismail Gulam M , Lewis David M
Published: July 2010

Several stilbenes have been shown to sensitise the formation of singlet oxygen, which is capable of oxidising indole residues, e.g. tryptophan. Some stilbenes were found to quench singlet oxygen, e.g. disodium 4,4′‐diaminostilbene‐2,2′‐disulphonate. Such materials have been shown to be capable of sensitising the photoyellowing of wool and proved to be no more stable than conventional stilbene fluorescent whitening agents.
Photodegradation of acid dyes in nylon films
Authors: Lishan David G , Harris Paul W , Brahim Karime , Jackson Robert L
Published: July 2010

The photodegradation of three representative acid dyes commonly used to colour nylon was studied in nylon films. It was observed that irreversible photodegradation of the dyes occurs only at wavlengths shorter than 350nm and that the quantum yield increases as the photolysis wavelength decreases. It was also found that u.v. photolysis of the dyes is partially reversible and that photodegradation is inhibited by oxygen. Evidence is presented that photodegradation occurs by a reduction process, involving hydrogen transfer from the nylon polymer to the excited dye.
The chemical analysis of insect‐resist agents on wool. Part 1ndashtraditional agents
Authors: Wimbush Jeremy M
Published: July 2010

Rapid and reliable procedures for the chemical analysis of insect‐resist agents, or mothproofers, on wool have been developed. These methods, based on chromatographic analysis(using g.l.c. and h.p.l.c), are routinely employed by many laboratories for the quality control of insect‐resist agents on wool textile products. Full details of the procedures used to determine the traditional agents, recognised by the International Wool Secretariat, are described in the paper.
The distribution of some fluorescent anionic surfactants applied to wool
Authors: Holt Leo A , Stapleton Ian W
Published: July 2010

The distribution of surfactants in the different regions of the wool fibre has been studied by applying several novel fluorescent surfactants to wool under various conditions and studying sections of the treated fibres under the fluorescence microscope. The intercellular and cell remnant regions appear to be the preferred locations for these surfactants in the wool fibre, but various distributions can be obtained, depending on the length of the hydrocarbon chain of the surfactant and the conditions under which it is applied. The similarities in surface activity, sorption and extraction behaviour of the more typical surfactant sodium dodecyl sulphate and some of the fluorescent surfactants suggest that the former surfactant may have a similar distribution between the different regions of wool.
Relationship between direct dye characteristics and coverage of immature fibre neps in dyed cotton fabric
Authors: Cheek Lenore , Wilcock Anne
Published: July 2010

Cotton fabric containing a large number of neps was dyed with each of 17 azo direct dyes. Visible coverage of neps composed of immature fibres varied widely among the dyes. An evaluation of those structural characteristics of the dyes that might account for their differential ability to achieve coverage of neps was undertaken. Direct dyes containing more than one amino or amido group in their structure were found most likely to achieve relatively good nep coverage. Scanning electron micrographs revealed considerable variation in the types of fibres making up the individual neps in a single piece of cotton fabric. Differences in direct dye behaviour towards nep coverage were most evident with those neps composed of immature fibres with some secondary wall development.
Ozone fading of phenolphthalein and aurin
Authors: Matsui Masaki , Koike Tsuneyuki , Shibata Katsuyoshi
Published: July 2010

The reactions of phenolphthalein, which exists as a lactone‐quinonoid tautomeric mixture in solution, and aurin with ozone have been examined. The reactivity of the lactone tautomer of phenolphthalein with ozone was found to be low and the ozone attacks the aromatic ring. In the case of the quinonoid tautomer the ozone readily reacts with the carbon skeleton. In the case of aurin ozone also attacks the carbon skeleton.
Iodo‐substituted 4‐aminoazobenzenes and 4‐phenylazonaphthylamines‐dyes for synthetic‐polymer fibres
Authors: Peters A T , Soboyejo N O
Published: July 2010

2‐Iodo‐4‐nitroaniline, 2,6 diiodo‐4‐nitroaniline, 6‐iodo‐2,4‐dinitroaniline and 2‐cyano‐6‐iodo‐4‐nitroaniline were prepared from the appropriate nitroanilines by various iodination procedures. Diazotisation of these, and coupling to N‐ß‐cyanoethyil‐N‐ß‐hydroxyethylaniline, 2‐methoxy‐5‐acetylamino‐N‐ß‐cyanoethyl‐N‐ß‐hydroxyethylaniline and N‐ß‐hydroxyethyl‐1‐naphthylamine afforded a series of red to blue disperse dyes. The colour, dyeing and fastness properties of the dyes are evaluated with respect to analogous fluoro‐, chloro‐and bromo‐substituted derivatives.
Shrink‐resist treatment of wool with a nucleophilic reagent/cationic surfactant/ cationic resin mixture
Authors: Erra P. , Juliá M R , Infante M R , Coderch M L , Domínguez J J García
Published: July 2010

A new sodium sulphite/cationic surfactant/cationic resin treatment, which prevents felting shrinkage in wool fabrics, has been investigated. The presence of cationic resin inthese treatments allows the use of lower reagent concentrations and temperatures than employed if the resin were not present. Furthermore its presence avoids the loss of mechanical strength which takes place when the shrink‐resist treatment is carried out without resin.
The desorbing action of polyvinylpyrrolidone
Authors: Nishida Kenzo , Ando Yutaka , Toriumi Shingo
Published: July 2010

Work has been carried out to obtain an understanding of the interaction between a cationic (basic) dye and polyvinylpyrrolidone, using visible absorption spectroscopy and viscometry. Changes in the enthalpy, entropy and number of binding sites on the polymer have been calculated.
Blend analysis by conventional infra‐red spectrophotometry. Part 1‐polyester/cotton blends
Authors: Pancholi B S , Talele A B , Rao M V S , Gandhi R S
Published: July 2010

This paper deals with the blend analysis of polyester/cotton blends using conventional i.r. spectrophotometry. More accurate prediction of blend composition is possible by using the peak areas at the 725cm‐1 band and logarithmic ratios of 3385cm‐1/725cm‐1 and 3385cm‐1/1715cm‐1 than by using the 1715cm‐1 peak area as is the normal practice. The results are then found to be less affected by sample inhomogeneity and variations in sampling accuracy.
Recent developments in wool printing
Authors: Bell Veronica
Published: July 2010

This paper discusses the processing steps involved in the printing of wool, i.e. preparation, printing, steaming, washing‐off and aftertreatment, and comments on the pitfalls to be encountered at each stage. Recent developments in the preparation for printing (the most likely source of problems) are reviewed. The special styles of discharge and resist are discussed, and newly developed resist printing processes described. The printing of blends, print‐batch (cold), and the numerous attempts to apply transfer printing to wool are also reviewed.
The effect of substituent groups in bis(dithiobenzil) nickel compounds on their absorption spectra, reduction potential and singlet oxygen quenching efficiency
Authors: Shiozaki Hisayoshi , Nakazumi Hiroyuki , Kitao Teijiro
Published: July 2010

The influence of substituents on the longest wavelength (Λmax) of absorption maxima and the reduction potential of bis(p‐substituted dithiobenzil) nickel compounds has been evaluated by the classical Hammett equation. A good linear relationship between Λmax or reduction potential and σp or σp+ shows that at least one phenyl ring is conjugated with the five‐membered nickel chelate ring, although neither of the phenyl rings is actually coplanar to the chelate ring. The amount of singlet oxygen quenched by bis(p‐substituted dithiobenzil) nickel has been conveniently measured by means of a gas chromatograph using a capillary column.
The effect of annelation on the absorption spectra of polyazo dyes
Authors: Yasui Shigeo , Matsuoka Masaru , Takao Mitsukazu , Kitao Teijiro
Published: July 2010

The effects of annelation on the absorption spectra of polyazo dyes are discussed on the basis of the PPP MO method. Large bathochromic shifts (15–80 nm) of Λmax were observed if the 1, 4‐phenylene ring in the conjugating bridge of polyazo dyes was replaced with a 1, 4‐naphthylene ring (annelation). The annelation effect on Λmax was increased as the strength of acceptor group increased in disazo dyes with an intramolecular charge‐transfer chromophore. The additive properties of Λmax were observed in a number of annelated trisazo dyes, which were confirmed by the PPP MO method. Steric effects were observed in trisazo dyes derived from N‐alkylnaphthylamine. The solubility of dichroic polyazo dyes in liquid crystals was generally improved, but their dichroic properties were only slightly affected by annelation.7
Crystal structures of azo pigments derived from acetoacetanilide
Authors: Whitaker A
Published: July 2010

The crystal structures often azo pigments derived from acetoacetanilide have been determined by single crystal X‐ray diffraction techniques. A review of these crystal structures indicates the existence of certain common features. It is found that, in the solid state, the molecules do not exist in the azo form but in the form of the hydrazone tautomer. The hydrogen in the hydrazone group and the one in the CONH group both take part in intramolecular hydrogen bonding. In both cases the hydrogen bond may be bifurcated (shared) between two acceptor atoms. These intramolecular hydrogen bonds hold the molecule more or less planar. In general the molecules stack in columns and these columns are linked by van der Waals forces, but in a minority of cases (three out often) intermolecular hydrogen bonds have been found. A relationship between molecular stacking and crystal morphology is pointed out.
The effects of residual surfactants on the dyeing of wool
Authors: Cafarella V A , Cornell H J , Rivett D E
Published: July 2010

Wool fabric was extracted with various organic solvents at their boiling points and then dyed with Coomassie Blue BL200. Non–dyed areas of fabric were observed after extraction with ethanol, acetone/ water (70:30) and chloroform/methanol (70:30) mixtures, but not after extraction with perchloroethylene. Silica column chromatography separated the extracts from various solvent pretreatments into five major peaks, based on mass obtained. Some of these peaks were shown to contain cholesterol, non–ionic surfactant and phospholipid. Up to 14 components were detected by two–dimensional thin layer chromatography of the extracts. Thin layer chromatography revealed that some of the more polar components were not extracted by perchloroethylene. Separation of the extracts by column chromatography enabled a study of dye uptake to be carried out after recontamination of pretreated fabric with the major fractions. Materials in two of these fractions were found to eliminate the uneven dyeing observed with Coomassie Blue BL200. Column chromatography and spot tests showed that they behaved similarly to the non–ionic surfactant Antarox CO 630. These experiments also showed that refluxing perchloroethylene extracted only about half as much non–ionic surfactant as did refluxing chloroform/methanol (70:30) mixture. The residual surfactant may originate from the scouring process and/or from processing oils such as Mulrex.
The use of a natural dye in the formation of a thin coloured coating on an aluminium surface
Authors: Tsangaraki‐Kaplanoglou I , Moshohoritou R , Kallithrakas‐Kontos N
Published: July 2010

This paper describes a novel method for the electrolytic colouring of unanodised aluminium. The clean metal is treated using an alternating current in an aqueous bath containing tin(II) sulphate and the natural colouring matter crocin, the digentobiose ester of crocetin. This coating has a bright grey‐greenish‐yellow colour about 3 μm thick and is suitable for decorative purposes. If the aluminium has been anodised the coating cannot be formed.
Colour specifiers – a tool for ‘quick response’?
Authors: Lewis Kevin , Park James
Published: July 2010

Colour selection is an important factor in the design of textile products and traditionally this has depended on a large number of laboratory matchings being prepared from which the final selection is made. Colour atlases as an aid to colour selection are not new and those available are reviewed in this paper. The design of an ideal colour specifier is considered and its role is outlined together with a discussion of the advantages gained from its use. Finally the use of the specifier by dyers and printers as a further aid to ‘quick response’ is demonstrated. It is shown that the laboratory matching tier in the product development process can be eliminated by the use of the specifier in conjunction with a dedicated sample dyeing facility backed by colour measurement technology.
Some remarks on the Donnan approach to the equilibrium sorption of cationic dyes by acrylic fibres
Authors: Alberghina G , Amato M E , Fisichella S
Published: July 2010

Recent developments in the theoretical study of the dyeing of acrylic fibres with cationic dyes are reported. By using a simple Donnan approach and by assuming that the acrylic fibres contain strongly (K1) and weakly (K2) acidic groups, it has proved to be possible to determine the values of the distribution coefficients for the inorganic ions and the values of the dissociation constants of the acidic groups, which are not otherwise directly measurable. The distribution coefficients of the cationic dyes were then determined, based on experimental sorption measurements at different sodium concentrations and at different pH values.
Cost‐effective processing developments in the batchwise dyeing of cotton
Authors: Collishaw Peter S , Parkes David T
Published: July 2010

Cotton continues to be the most important textile fibre worldwide and market research indicates that this situation will continue into the 1990s. Differences in labour costs between the major importers of textile goods and the leading textile exporting countries of Asia continue to widen. To be completely meaningful, however, productivity factors and production‐related costs should also be taken into consideration. Refinements in machinery design, and in process technology and control continue to be developed by the innovative leaders in their respective fields of technology. This paper will briefly review some of the more recent developments for the batchwise dyeing of cotton, with emphasis on cost‐effectiveness.
Crystal data for C.I. Solvent Yellow 56
Authors: Whitaker A
Published: July 2010

The single crystal data and X‐ray powder pattern are reported for C.I. Solvent Yellow 56 (1‐phenylazo‐4‐N,N‐diethylaniline). The powder pattern has been indexed from cell dimensions given by single crystal measurements. The problems of multiple indexing have been reduced by comparing the powder data with observed single crystal intensities.
Crystal data for C.I. Disperse Yellow 16
Authors: Whitaker A
Published: July 2010

The single crystal data and X‐ray powder pattern are reported for C.I. Disperse Yellow 16 (1‐phenyl‐3‐methyl‐4‐phenylazo‐5‐pyrazolone). The powder pattern has been indexed from cell dimensions given by single crystal measurements. The problems of multiple indexing have been reduced by comparing the powder data with observed single crystal intensities.
The analysis of indigoid dyes by mass spectrometry
Authors: McGovern P E , Lazar J , Michel R H
Published: July 2010

High–resolution mass spectrometry provides an expeditious technique for positively identifying indigoid dyes of molluscan origin. Indigoids on modern and ancient textile fibres, as well as indigoid mixtures produced by reactions, are discussed. Steam treatment of the fibre or isolation of the dye by solvent extraction permits the analysis by mass spectrometry of dyes which bind more tightly to fibres, such as 6, 6′‐dibromoindigotin (C. I. 75800, Natural Vat Dye). The demonstration of the stepwise photolytic denomination of the leuco base of 6, 6′‐dibromoindigotin may be of more far‐reaching significance in distinguishing between natural and intentional mixtures of indigotin and its dibromo derivative.
The photochemistry of sulphuric acid esters of leuco vat dyes and their use in photographic printing and the cross–linking of poly(vinyl alcohol)
Authors: Badri Babiker
Published: July 2010

The photofission of vat esters proceeds through a free radical mechanism to give a vat dye and two bisulphite radicals. The bisulphite radicals may react with water to produce sulphite and sulphate or with each other to produce dithionate. The use of vat esters in photographic printing is hampered mainly because the free radicals generated by irradiation of a single vat ester in a mixture can initiate development of all vat esters in the mixture. However, when vat esters are used in cross–linking of poly(vinyl alcohol) films, their photofission depends on the degree of plasticity of the film. Water in the film acts as a plasticiser and as a source of hydroxyl radicals, which can oxidise more vat ester to vat dye or initiate cross–linking. Dependence of vat dye formation on water is diminished by the use of non–hygroscopic plasticisers, but the extent of cross–linking is also reduced.
Dyeing behaviour of aqueous solutions of dispersant–free disperse dyes in the high–temperature dyeing of polyester (Part 2)
Authors: Navratil Josef
Published: July 2010

High–temperature dyeing of polyester with true solutions of crude dyes and dispersant–free disperse dyes dissolved in the presence of a surfactant mixture has been simulated with the help of two mathematical models. The dyeing behaviour, i. e. the kinetics of exhaustion and of dye distribution in the fibre have been evaluated for nine hypothetical dyes. In the first method kinetics of hypothetical crystalline modifications of three Terasil dyes and in the second method for hypothetical surfactants have been studied. For both methods the laws governing the dyeing behaviour have been formulated. The advantages and disadvantages of the methods and the scope for implementing them are discussed.
Accurate representation of the colour of physical samples on a cathode ray tube graphics monitor
Authors: Hawkyard C J , Wilkinson C
Published: July 2010

A colour graphics monitor has been calibrated using data obtained with a telespectroradiometer (TSR) by the method known as gamma correction. The accuracy of the calibration was checked by measuring standard surface colours with a spectrophotometer, displaying the colours on the monitor, and obtaining chromaticity and luminance readings for them with the TSR. Excellent correlation was achieved. Chromaticity coordinates have also been successfully predicted for screen colours.
Laser Raman studies of α–bromoacrylamide reactive dyes and wool
Authors: Lee–Son G , Hester R E
Published: July 2010

The use of laser Raman spectroscopy in the investigation of interactions in α–bromoacrylamide reactive dye–wool fibre systems has been established. The spectra obtained (in particular using C. I. Reactive Red 84) provide some evidence to support the proposal that the dye reacts via addition at the double bond of the reactive group, followed by ring closure through nucleophilic substitution. Furthermore, preliminary studies of the effect of the commercial levelling assistant Albegal B on the aqueous dye environment have been made using C. I. Reactive Yellow 39. The results show that, whilst the primary interaction between the dye and auxiliary may be via the water–solubilising sulphonate groups of the dye, hydrophobic interactions are also important.
The effects of dye structure and a cationic aftertreatment on the coverage of neps in cotton fabric
Authors: Wilcock A. , Lloyd‐Graham D.
Published: July 2010

The effects of dye structure and aftertreatment with cationic fixative on the ability of a series of twelve direct dyes to cover neps in cotton fabrics have been examined. Colour differences before and after laundering have also been investigated.
Studies on the chemical and physical interactions between collagen and leather dyes
Authors: Muralidharan D , Rao V S Sundara
Published: July 2010

Studies on the interactions between collagen and C. I. Acid Yellow 36, an acid dye, have been carried out. Hide powder, both natural and chemically modified, was dyed by an equilibrium dialysis method and the dye–substrate affinities determined. Stripping studies of the dyed samples indicated the nature of the dye–fibre bonds.
Photo–oxidation of azo dyes in the presence of biacetyl and oxygen
Authors: Neevel J G , van Beek H C A , den Ouden H H I , van de Graaf B
Published: July 2010

Irradiation of aqueous solutions of biacetyl (2, 3–butanedione), oxygen and a variety of different azo dyes with light has been shown to result in the rapid oxidation of the dye to phenolic and quinonoid products. The quantum efficiency values of the dyes and the oxygen consumption during fading of some commercially available and some laboratory–synthesised azo dyes have been measured. The photo–oxidation was found to be inhibited by phenolic compounds. Since these compounds are products of the photo–oxidation of azo dyes, they could play an important role in the determination of the dyes' light fastness properties. As keto groups are present in many substrates, the ketone–sensitised photo–oxidation could be relevant in the fading of azo dyes.
The application of electronic and vibrational spectroscopic techniques to the identification of quinacridone pigments in vehicle paint systems
Authors: Binant C , Guineau B , Lautié A
Published: July 2010

Six red quinacridone pigments have been studied and characterised by electronic, infra–red and Raman spectroscopic techniques. The pigment colour can be correlated to the crystal structure rather than in terms of intramolecular substituent effects. Study of the pigments in paint formulations shows the complementary nature of these techniques; in particular, Raman spectra are very useful for pigment identification while infra–red spectroscopy is useful for characterising resins.
Reactive dyes for cellulose. An unexpected hydrolysis product of a triazinyl reactive dye with a 3–carboxypyridine (nicotinic acid) leaving group
Authors: Taylor J A , Renfrew A H M
Published: July 2010

During a recent investigation into the relative rates of hydrolysis of a series of triazinyl reactive dyes bearing various leaving groups, an unexpected reaction was observed in the case of a nicotinic acid derivative. In model studies in dilute aqueous sodium carbonate solution none of the expected hydroxytriazine was detected; instead the aminotriazine was formed cleanly and rapidly (pseudo–first–order rate constant k = 1. 60 times 10‐1min‐1). The nicotinamide derivative behaved similarly. Other pyridinium derivatives examined all behaved as expected, yielding the hydroxytriazine, but at much slower rates (e. g. k = 1. 28 times 10–3min‐1for the unsubstituted pyridinium salt). A possible mechanism to account for the rapid generation of aminotriazine is proposed and the significance of this observation to the dyeing of cotton with quaternised nicotinic acid dyes under basic and neutral conditions is discussed.
The chemical analysis of insect–resist agents on wool. Part 2 – pyrethroids
Authors: Wimbush Jeremy M
Published: July 2010

Rapid and reliable procedures for the chemical analysis of insect–resist agents, or mothproofers, on wool have been developed. These methods, based on chromatographic analysis (using gas–liquid and highperformance liquid chromatography) are routinely employed by many laboratories for the quality control of insect–resist agents on wool textile products. Part 1 of this paper described the methods used to determine the traditional agents. Part 2 describes the procedures used to determine another class of insectresist agents: the pyrethroids.
Degradation of azo dyes by cell‐free extract from Pseudomonas stutzeri
Authors: Yatome Chizuko , Ogaw Toshihiko , Hishida Hiroyuki , Taguchi Tom
Published: July 2010

The degradation of several azo dyes by the cell‐free extract from Pseudomonas stutzeri has been studied. The compounds 2‐carboxy‐4′‐dimethylaminoazobenzene, 4‐carboxy‐4′‐dimethylaminoazobenzene, 2‐carboxy 4′‐die thy lam inoazobenzene, 2‐met hoxycarbonyl‐4′‐dime t h y lam inoazobenzene, 4‐dime t h y lam inoazobenzene sulphonic acid, and 2‐hydroxy‐1 ‐naphthaleneazobenzenesulphonic acid were appreciably degraded by the cell‐ f ree extract. The cell‐ f ree extract was quite specific for 2‐ca rboxy‐4 ′‐diet h y lam inoazo benzen e, 2 met hoxyca rbonyI4′‐dime t h y lam inoazo benzene, and 2‐ca rboxy4′‐dime t h y lam inoazo benzene, which a reequal in their redox potential. Thus, it is suggested that the substrate specificity is characterised by a log Pdependence. The presence of azo reductase in the cell‐free extract was alsoconfirmed by electrophoresis.
The untrained industry — some food for thought
Authors: Wynne Roger
Published: July 2010

At a time when further technical training and education is strongly recommended for employees within the coloration industry, criticism is repeatedly levelled at members of higher management who have never undertaken formal management training. The result is that the younger company members who are learning new management techniques are actually being poorly managed by their superiors. Roger Wynne discusses the need for higher managers to resume training and considers some of the basic tools that are available to them.
Sublimation transfer printing of silk
Authors: Chavan R B , Nalankilli G
Published: July 2010

The results of a study are reported in which silk fabrics have been pretreated with modified melamine‐formaldehyde resin. This treatment makes the fabrics amenable to subsequent transfer printing and crease‐recovery finishing.
Legislation and the control of dyehouse pollution
Authors: D'Arcy Brian
Published: July 2010

The aim of this paper is to briefly review the law as it relates to the cost and prevention of water pollution, with particular reference to the textile and dyeing industries in Scotland. It examines how the statutes affect the industrialist. The procedures adopted for the control and prevention of pollution are described, and the rationale behind current practices is explained. Finally, a few thoughts are offered on options to avoid pollution and meet the requirements of the pollution control authorities.
Dynamic behaviour of dyeing machinery and computer simulation — some examples
Authors: Burley Roger , Flower John R
Published: July 2010

A summary of two studies of different types of well‐known dyeing machinery is presented. Logical analysis and experimental studies of fluid flow in wet textile processes give a clear understanding of machine operation. This fundamental information combined with present knowledge of dye‐fibre chemistry then allows the operation and control to be simulated in ways not previously possible.
Re‐equipping a dyehouse for maximum productivity — the factors involved
Authors: Gaunt J F , Moffitt A B
Published: July 2010

Before an existing dyehouse can be re‐equipped for maximum productivity, substantial changes in machinery, techniques and in personnel attitudes are needed. These are described, along with an outline of further work that will be undertaken when suitable equipment becomes available.
The influence of the diffusional boundary layer on dye sorption from finite baths
Authors: Etters J N
Published: July 2010

A non‐rigorous technique for approximating the effect of the diffusional boundary layer on the sorption of dye from finite baths is proposed. Dimensionless half‐times of sorption are given for various fractional equilibrium bath exhaustion and boundary layer effect conditions. At higher fractional equilibrium exhaustions of the dyebath, the boundary layer is shown to have a greater influence on half‐time of sorption.
Minimising the impairment of the physical properties of wool during dyeing by restricting the level of permanent set
Authors: Cookson P G , Fincher K W , Brady P R
Published: July 2010

If permanent setting of the wool fibre, which occurs during dyeing, can be restricted, the impairment of physical properties is reduced. This can be achieved by adding an oxidising agent, such as potassium bromate or hydrogen peroxide, to the dyebath. Oxidising agents also restrict the extent to which hygral expansion increases as a result of piece dyeing. When used in the presence of dyes, oxidants may cause differences in the colour of the dyed wool.
Improved cotton dyeing with the direct dye Solamine Fast Red 4BL in the presence of ethylenediamine tetra (methylenephosphonic) acid
Authors: Riad Y , El‐Nahas H M , Hamza H M
Published: July 2010

Ethylenediamine tetra (methylenephosphonic) acid when adsorbed by cotton fibres prior to the application of the direct dye Solamine Fast Red 4BL causes a marked increase rate of dyeing. It also improves the wet fastness properties of the dyed cotton.
Key considerations for business in a single European market
Authors: Welford Richard
Published: July 2010

The creation of the Single European Market after 1992 poses both opportunities for and threats to British business. The freedom to buy and sell anywhere in the Community, the increased size of potential markets, new opportunities for the use of new production technology and the advantage of currency stability means that there is great potential for expansion. This potential is further increased if and when some EFTA countries, Turkey and some Eastern European countries join the Community. But Europe will also become a more competitive place and the competition from well established industries in successful economies such as Germany as well as low‐wage European economies will be fierce. Businesses in the UK will also have to be aware of and adhere to new European directives on a wide range of issues from employment law to environmental protection. Some of these new considerations are reviewed here.
The consequences of abolition of the MFA
Authors: Silberston Aubrey
Published: July 2010

The principal restriction on imports of textiles and clothing into Western Europe is the Multi‐Fibre Arrangement (MFA). This came onto effect in 1974, and has been renewed three times. The present MFA IV is due to expire on 31 July 1991, but in the meanwhile discussions regarding the MFA are taking place in the Uruguay Round of GATT.
Automation of yarn package dyeing
Authors: Bocus E
Published: July 2010

The application of fully automated procedures in a modern package‐dyeing plant is described.
One‐bath dyeing of wool/polyester blends with acid and disperse dyes. Part 1‐wool damage and dyeing conditions
Authors: Wang Jiping , Åsnes Harald
Published: July 2010

The relationship between dyeing conditions and wool damage during one‐bath dyeing of wool/ polyester blends is described. At a dyeing temperature of 110d̀ C, wool damage was not severe during the first hour. An agent used in an attempt to protect the wool from damage was not effective.
The quality system‐BS 5750/ISO 9000
Authors: Smith A
Published: July 2010

The last 20 years has seen something of a revolution in the field of quality management in the UK. The fact that ‘quality’ was being used as a source of competitive advantage by other countries, most notably Japan, together with the emergence of an increasingly demanding customer base, has promoted the realisation that quality is the basis of manufacturing or service excellence. In the context of the evolution of ‘quality thinking’ four major ‘quality eras’ (Table 1) have been identified. Recognition of these eras is useful to establish a frame of reference for considering the emergence and the role of quality assurance system standards. This article will be concerned with the third stage, ‘quality assurance’, the primary concern being one of a coordinated approach to quality.
Low chrome dyeing. Part 1 — the role of sulphamic acid in the afterchrome dyeing of wool
Authors: Xing Jianwei , Pailthorpe Michael T
Published: July 2010

The role of sulphamic acid in the afterchrome dyeing of wool has been investigated. It was found that chromium residues in the dyebath effluent were significantly reduced when the commonly used formic acid was either partly or wholly replaced with sulphamic acid. The wash fastness properties of the wool fabric dyed in the presence of sulphamic acid were the same as those of wool fabric dyed by the conventional afterchrome process. There was no significant difference in the wool damage caused during the sulphamic acid‐assisted dyeing process and the conventional formic acid dyeing process.
Kinetics of solvent‐assisted dyeing of acrylic fibres
Authors: Shukla S R , Hundekar R V , Saligram A N
Published: July 2010

The kinetics of dyeing acrylic fibres with cationic dyes in the presence of small amounts of the solvents ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, nitromethane and iso‐amyl alcohol has been studied. The time of half‐dyeing was taken as a measure of the rate of dyeing, which was found to decrease with increasing concentration of the solvent in the dyebath. A linear correlation was observed between the rate of dyeing and the change in glass transition temperature of the fibre.
Printing flax/polyester blends—a new approach
Authors: Hill Brian , Gray George
Published: July 2010

Work at the University of Ulster has been carried out to investigate methods of achieving startling print colour effects. It has been realised that by arranging fibre blends and distribution, pleasing aesthetic results are made possible. In this article Brian Hill and George Gray give a brief account of their research.
The graft printing of silk fabric in the presence of sulphamic acid
Authors: Luo J T
Published: July 2010

The effect of printing silk fabrics in the presence sulphamic acid has been investigated. Sulphamic acid introduces sulphonate groups into silk's structure and confers good resist properties for acid dyes on silk. An increased uptake of basic dyes has also been found. The light fastness of such dyeings was better than on ungrafted silk, being similar to values obtained on acrylic substrates. White and coloured resist effects have been investigated.
Effective colour communication for industry
Authors: Luo Ronnier , Rhodes Peter , Xin John , Scrivener Stephen
Published: July 2010

How many times have you agreed to a colour design on a monitor, only to find that the final version on your fabric is a totally different shade? The problem of mismatch between colours on screen and on physical materials has been a focus of two collaborative projects funded by the DTI and SERC. The result is the Colour Talk system, which demonstrates that high colour fidelity and effective colour communication can be realised using modern colour computer systems.
Colour in photography
Authors: Attridge Geoffrey
Published: July 2010

Colour photography uses films and printing papers that incorporate gelatin dispersions of silver halide crystals as light‐sensitive elements. About one micrometer in size, these crystals are insensitive at wavelengths greater than approximately 500 run and require development to reveal the effects of exposure. This paper describes methods by which photographic materials can ‘see’ most of the visible spectrum, how colours of subjects are analysed and how final images are synthesised, all within layers a few microns thick.
Non‐isothermal dyeing of wool
Authors: Popescu C
Published: July 2010

Kinetic models of the dyeing process are reviewed and diffusion of dye into the fibre is identified as the rate‐determining step in most dyeing processes. A simpler approach to defining a linear exhaustion profile of acid dyes on wool fibres is proposed that takes into account non‐isothermal kinetic models and analyses their possibilities of use. In this endeavour a novel dyeing rate constant is defined that appears to be characteristic of a particular dye class.
Eastern promise for clothing?
Authors: Anson Robin
Published: July 2010

The East European textile and clothing markets, for decades neglected and virtually closed to the outside world, are now opening up. With Western markets set for slower growth in the 1990s, the potential of an East European marketplace of 400 m people is ripe for investment.
Mechanistic investigations on the action of levelling agents in reactive wool dyeing
Authors: Hannemann Klaus
Published: July 2010

Although levelling agents for reactive dyes have been on the market for more than twenty years, there still remains some uncertainty as to their mode of action. Therefore an investigation has been carried out, using Albegal B as a typical levelling agent and reactive dyes from the Lanasol range. There are three mechanisms proposed to describe how auxiliaries such as Albegal B can act to overcome tip/root unlevelness when dyeing wool fibres: a dye complex mechanism, a surface mechanism and a fibre mechanism. These are discussed in the light of the experimental results.