bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
A New Insight into the Thermofix Dyeing of Polyester‐Cellulose Blends
Authors: Bent C. J. , Flynn T. D. , Sumner H. H.
Published: July 2010

Novel experimental techniques have been used to show that in thermofix dyeing disperse dyes are transferred from cotton to polyester fibres—in a blend or union fabric—solely by a vapour‐phase mechanism. Other possible modes of transfer were examined, but no evidence was found to support them. The heat fastness of paniculate disperse dyes on cotton was correlated with their transfer properties to polyester fibres. The various types of behaviour of disperse dyes in bulk application are explained. Functions of padding assistants and, in particular, a migration inhibitor and the importance of time and temperature in thermofixation procedures are dealt with in practical terms in Part II of the paper.
Prospects and Problems in the Dyeing and Finishing of Differential‐dyeing Nylon 6.6 Yarns
Authors: Chantler M. D. , Partlett G. A. , Whiteside J. A. B.
Published: July 2010

In the first section of the paper, the various types of differcntial‐dyeing nylon 6.6 yarns are described, together with recommended dyes and the colour effects attainable. The effect of dyebath pH and the degree of sulphonation of acid dyes and the use of buffer systems, antiprccipitants, levelling agents and syntans are then dealt with. Finally, the main end‐uses—warp‐ and weft‐knitted and woven fabrics, and carpets—are discussed, with special reference to dyeing techniques.
Some Aspects of the Development of Dyeing and Finishing Methods for Teklan
Authors: Ward J. S.
Published: July 2010

Taking as a basis the current state of dyeing and finishing technology for Teklan, a modacrylic fibre, an account is given of the technical and economic considerations and the supporting investigations which have led to the present polymer composition and techniques.
Continuous Dyeing of Synthetic‐polymer Fibre Carpets, Especially those Made of Nylon
Authors: Stern H. , Kaiser L. E.
Published: July 2010

The essential differences between the methods by which carpeting with a nylon pile may be dyed continuously are explained. Attention is drawn to the various factors, e.g. pH of the dye‐liquor, pick‐up, and steamer design, which influence the results obtained. Brief reference is made to the continuous dyeing of carpets made from acrylic or polyester fibres.
Symposium On ‘Principles and Practice of Automation’
Authors: Swindells P. C.
Published: July 2010

Held by the West Riding Region at the University of Bradford, on 28 March 1968, Miss E. Smith in the chair

Automation in Yarn‐package Dyehouses

The reasons for the introduction of full automation into a small yarn‐package dyehouse are discussed. The effectiveness of full automation compared with semi‐automation is also considered.
Photodegradation of Cotton Cellulose I—Reactions Sensitised by Anthraquinone Sulphonates
Authors: Baugh P. J. , Phillips G. O. , Worthlngton N. W.
Published: July 2010

The mechanism of photodegradation of cotton cellulose sensitised by sodium anthraquinone‐1‐ and ‐2‐su!phonates (A) has been examined. Measurements of diffuse reflectance indicate that the sensitisers are present in monodisperse form on the cotton cellulose and interact, on irradiation (λ, 365 nm), to give the corresponding anthrahydroquinones (AH2). A hydrogen‐abstraction reaction, involving the nπ*‐excited state (A*), leads to the formation of the semiquinone (AH·), which produces the anthrahydroquinone, probably by a further abstraction process:

A* + Cell → AH· + Cell radical

The accompanying decrease in degree of polymerisation of the cotton cellulose is equivalent to the production of AH2. The photoinduced changes in the sensitiser and substrate are first‐order in sensitiser concentration. Oxygen and water vapour are necessary for the cyclic regeneration of the sensitiser, which proceeds at the same rate for both 1‐ and 2‐sulphonates. However, sodium anthraquinone‐2‐sulphonate is 16 times more efficient as a sensitiser than the 1‐sulphonate, a result which is in agreement with the quantum yields for the production of AH2 from these sensitisers in solution.
Imidazole Dyes. XX—Colouring Properties of 1,2‐Naphthoylenebenzimidazole Derivatives
Authors: Arient J. , Marhan J. , Havíčková (Mrs) L.
Published: July 2010

The relation between the constitution and colouring properties of 1,2‐naphthoylenebenzimidazole derivatives has been studied. The dyes were applied from aqueous dispersion to cellulose acetate, nylon, polyester and acrylic fibres, and by a mass‐coloration technique to nylon, polyester and polypropylene fibres. The effects of the position of substituents on the substantivity of the dyes for the different fibres, on the colour obtained and on its fastness properties were also studied. Some new 1,2‐naphthoylenebenzimidazole derivatives were prepared.
The Physico‐chemical Hydrodynamics of Dyeing
Authors: McGregor R. , Peters R. H. , Varol K.
Published: July 2010

The rates of uptake of two disperse dyes by films of methoxymethylnylon 6.6 have been measured as a function of rate of flow of liquid using the apparatus described in part I (p. 437). The kinetics were found to be in general controlled by diffusion through the liquid and into the film itself. It has been shown that the kinetics may be described in terms of a model in which dye is assumed to diffuse across a boundary layer, followed by adsorption at the film surface, from which diffusion into the polymer film proceeds. The shape of the rate‐of‐dyeing curve has been shown to depend on a parameter that is dependent on the diffusion coefficients of dye in the aqueous and in the film phases, the partition coefficient of the dye and the thickness of the boundary layer.
An Introduction to Marketing
Authors: Ford J. E.
Published: July 2010

The importance of marketing involvement in management organisation is outlined, and the main branches of marketing studies are described briefly.
Motivation to Work
Authors: Hobbs P. T. G.
Published: July 2010

Hard cash is not the universal motivator for hard work. Recent developments in behavioural science provide management with a better understanding of how and why people work. It is essential to relate this knowledge to existing management‐science skills if we are to improve our economic performance and meet the expectations of our changing society.
The Dyeing and Finishing of Tricel for Fashion Knitwear
Authors: Ratcliffe J. D.
Published: July 2010

This paper deals with ‘fashion knitwear’ made from high‐bulk Tricel, crimped Tricelon and Tricel knit‐deknit yarns. In addition to a discussion of the dyeing and finishing of fabrics and garments, brief details are given of the methods of yarn production and yarn dyeing.
Steric and Electronic Effects in Basic Dyes. I—Electronic Absorption Spectra of Derivatives of Malachite Green Containing Trifluoromethyl Groups in the Phenyl Ring
Authors: Hallas G. , Grocock D. E. , Hepworth J. D.
Published: July 2010

Absorption spectra of derivatives of Malachite Green containing trifluoromethyl groups in the phenyl ring have been examined. As anticipated, substituents in the 3‐ or 4‐position have little effect on the maximum intensity of the first‐frequency band but they modify the position of the band to an extent linearly related to the appropriate Hammett substituent constant. Although a substituent in the 2‐position markedly increases the intensity of the first band, the expected bathochromic shift relative to that of the 4‐substituted isomer is not observed. Steric hindrance of the central carbon atom in the 2‐trifluoromethyl and 2,6‐di‐(trifluoromethyl) derivatives facilitates replacement of a terminal dimethylamino group by a hydroxyl group, with formation of a fuchsone. The hindrance is sufficient to permit replacement of a dimethylamino group in the corresponding dye‐bases.
Publications Sponsored by the Colour Measurement Committee—IV
Authors: Coates E. , Durrans J. , Rigg B.
Published: July 2010

Two sets of industrially dyed 8‐oz fabric, one (green cotton) containing 46 pieces that had been visually sorted into five batches and the other (blue cotton‐Terylene) 30 pieces, sorted into three batches at the production stage, have been measured colorimetrically. Two instruments (the Signature Model Color‐Eye and the Colormaster Model V) have been compared for precision in use consistent with speed, and the latter was favoured. Two ends from each piece were available and the best procedure for measurement was determined, taking into account the variations in colour across and along the piece. One measurement on four thicknesses of any specimen from an end of a piece is satisfactory, measured behind plain glass in a rotating‐head, four specimens from each end being required to provide suitable average results for a piece. A consistent set of results for many pieces measured over several hours can best be obtained by the use of one specimen as a reference sample. Repeat measurements on the reference sample, every 30 min, enable the results for all pieces to be related by colour‐difference measurements to a fixed point for the reference sample. This procedure compensates for significant variations in measured results for any specimen taken over periods longer than 15 min. There are insignificant variations in colour differences for a given pair of specimens over long periods when the pair are measured within a short period (ca 15 min). The instrumental results are consistent with the visual assessments and could be used for instrumental sorting. The colour variations among these pieces are essentially due to strength variations, and additional systems showing more random colour variations must be studied before a comprehensive sorting procedure can be considered.
The Structural Causes of the Dyeing Variations of Nylon Yarns Subjected to Dry Heat
Authors: Warwicker J. O.
Published: July 2010

When nylon 6 and nylon 6.6 yarns are subjected to dry heat in a texturing machine, the subsequent rate of dyeing with Durazol Blue 2R at first falls and then increases with increasing temperature of heat treatment. It becomes greater than that of the unheated yarn for samples that have been preheated to temperatures near the melting point of the nylons. It has been shown that Fick's law is valid for nylon 6.6 dyed with Durazol Blue 2R in an infinite dyebath. This does not hold for nylon 6, so that, in consequence, for characterising the dyeing process for both nylons the rate of dyeing is a better parameter than the diffusion coefficient. Measurements of density, birefringence, and degree of lateral order by an X‐ray method show that these are all increased by the heat treatments. The moisture regain is, however, decreased, but little change is produced in the amine end‐group content and X‐ray orientation in the samples. An explanation of the dyeing results in relation to the physical and chemical changes is advanced. A morphological structure is envisaged of long ribbon‐like units held together by binding material that allows an increase in the relative size of voids, or the total void content, on heating the nylons above a certain temperature, this temperature depending on the particular nylon.
Shrink‐resist Finishing of Wool Materials with Polyurethane
Authors: Rutley R. O.
Published: July 2010

The application of polyurethane films to wool textiles by polymerisation of isocyanates in organic‐solvent systems provides a convenient and economical way of imparting shrink resistance to wool fabric. Methods of application and a description of this relatively new technology are given, with particular reference to the factors affecting the reactivity of polymeric isocyanate materials.
Publications Sponsored by the Colour Measurement Committee‐VI
Authors: Coates E. , Provost J. R. , Rigg B.
Published: July 2010

A set of gloss‐paint samples exhibiting large (10–25 CIE units) colour differences has been prepared. Visual assessments have been made under different viewing conditions. The results substantiate the view that visual assessments vary markedly with the size of sample and, together with earlier work (2), show that assessments also vary with the size of the colour difference. Thus, colour‐difference equations can correlate well with visual assessments only for given conditions. Existing equations apply best to conditions very different from those encountered in industry. It should not be too difficult to develop a more suitable equation for industrial use, given sufficient experimental data obtained under appropriate viewing conditions.
Aftertreatment of Anionic Dyes on Nylon Fibres
Authors: SHORE J.
Published: July 2010

Meeting of the Bradford Junior Section, held in Bradford Technical College, on 13 October 1969, Mr R. S. Stringer in the chair

The improvement in wet fastness of anionic dyes, e.g. C.I. Acid Blue 25, on nylon fibres by aftertreatment with natural tannins is attributable mainly to modification of the substrate by the tannin, which lowers the rates of diffusion of the dye (a) out of the dyed fibre and (b) into undyed adjacent nylon. Ultraviolet spectroscopy of solutions of tannic acid (a polygalloylated glucose) has given indications of the alkaline oxidative degradation of the tannin believed to be responsible for the discoloration of backtanned dyeings. Tartar emetic increases the effectiveness of backtanning by formation of a less soluble complex with tannic acid which is more resistant to alkaline oxidation. Formic acid increases the rate of diffusion and the equilibrium uptake of tannic acid on nylon. The adsorption and diffusion behaviour of several related anthraquinone acid and disperse dyes on nylon is discussed and possible explanations are advanced of the low effectiveness of backtanning in preventing loss of dye by dyed nylon 6 and staining of undyed wool. No conclusive evidence has been obtained of interaction between C.I. Acid Blue 25 and tannic acid or tartar emetic in aqueous solution.
An Analysis of the Present and Future Position of Commission Finishing
Authors: SMITH P. W.
Published: July 2010

The development of the textile finishing industry during this century is traced, with particular reference to commission finishing. New factors affecting the future of commission finishing are discussed, and an attempt is made to define the probable future balance between horizontal and vertical organisation. Those commission‐finishing units which continue to operate as a purely service medium to converters are at greatest risk. The chief operators in a ‘commission’ sense will be the vertical organisations. Particularly with industrial textiles, different patterns may develop, but these will essentially be based on the finisher being directly involved in the production and marketing of the final products.
Vapour‐phase Transfer Printing
Authors: HOLLAND G. , LITHERLAND A.
Published: July 2010

Recent developments in textile printing by vapour‐phase transfer are described, and the scope and commercial prospects of the process, in the printing of fabrics and garments or garment pieces, are discussed. An experimental investigation has been carried out with special reference to the fastness properties of the prints, and recommendations are made for optimum conditions of processing and the selection of dyes for six different fibres.
Formation of Hydrazyl Radicals and Hydrazo Compounds by Photoreduction of Azo Dyes
Authors: van BEEK H. C. A. , HEERTJES P. M. , HOUTEPEN C. , RETZLOFF D.
Published: July 2010

The photoreduction of eighteen different monoazo dyes in aqueous and ethanolic solutions, containing d, l‐mandelic acid or acetone as hydrogen donors, to the corresponding amines has been investigated by flash‐photolysis and rapid‐flow techniques. The photoreduction of azo dyes proceeds in stages involving hydrazyl radicals and hydrazo compounds. The former are formed in a rapid reaction of the azo dyes with the active reducing agent produced upon absorption of light by the hydrogen donor. These radicals are unstable and disproportionate with formation of hydrazo compounds and regeneration of the original azo dye. The hydrazo compounds are also unstable and decompose with formation of amines and regeneration of the dye. The reaction schemes presented are supported by kinetic evidence and electron spin resonance measurements.
Carbonising of Woollen Fabric
Authors: PARK J.
Published: July 2010

Several wet‐processing sequences were examined on a bulk scale to determine the best point at which to carry out carbonising. Any one of several sequences can be used in practice to achieve commercially acceptable results. The effects of temperature and immersion time on acid uptake have also been investigated.
Studies in Accelerated Oxidation of Cellulose. I—Hypochlorite Oxidation of Cellulose in Presence of Manganous Hydroxide
Authors: SHENAI V. A. , SINGH O. P.
Published: July 2010

The oxidation of cellulose by treatment with sodium hypochlorite in the presence of different amounts of manganous hydroxide at different pH values (4·5–9·0) for a short time (10 min) has been investigated. Treatments with chlorous acid and sodium borohydride have been utilised to determine the different types of reducing and acidic groups formed in cellulose during accelerated oxidation. Manganous hydroxide has been shown to be a milder accelerant of the hypochlorite oxidation of cellulose than either leuco vat dyes or ferrous hydroxide under similar conditions.
The Interaction between Acid Dyes and Non‐ionic Surfactants and its Effect on Sorption and Diffusion Behaviour. II–Sorption of Dyes and Surfactants on Nylon 6.6 Fibres from Finite Baths
Authors: DELANEY M. J. , DATYNER A.
Published: July 2010

Rates of sorption of a series of acid dyes and three non‐ionic surfactants on nylon 6.6 fibres from finite baths have been measured. The observed sorption behaviour has been explained in terms of the equilibria between dye, surfactant and dye–surfactant complex species in the dyebath. There is evidence that sorption of surfactant micelles occurs, and a hydrogen‐bonding mechanism for adsorption of micelles has been proposed.
The Photochemistry of Dyes. IV—The Role of Singlet Oxygen and Hydrogen Peroxide in Photosensitised Degradation of Polymers
Authors: EGERTON G. S. , MORGAN A. G.
Published: July 2010

The effect of sensitising dyes on the photochemical degradation of textile fibres is discussed. The degradation is dependent upon the presence of oxygen, and is accelerated by water vapour and rise in temperature. The study of simple model photochemical systems intended to simulate the dyed fibre system indicates that there are significant differences between the two systems. The sensitising effect of dyes in the textile systems seems to be due to the formation of excited singlet oxygen and hydrogen peroxide. The latter is not formed in the absence of water vapour.
The Role of Auxiliary Products in the High–temperature Dyeing of Polyester
Authors: DERBYSHIRE A. N. , MILLS W. P. , SHORE J.
Published: July 2010

The effect of a number of auxiliary products of both the carrier and the non–carrier type on the levelling of disperse dyes under high–temperature (HT) conditions has been determined for a range of 12 dyes. The most effective products are carriers based on butyl benzoate, trichlorobenzene, diphenyl and benzyl benzoate. The effectiveness of a particular chemical type depends on its emulsification under dyebath conditions. Non–carrier agents show less improvement in levelling than all but the most ineffective carriers. Non–ionic agents can retard and restrain dyes, and can also adversely affect the dispersion stability of dyes.
The Mechanism of Formation of Phenosafranine Dyes
Authors: Corbett J. F.
Published: July 2010

The formation of phenosafranine dyes, from the oxidation of mixtures of p‐diamines and arylamines, is shown to be a seven‐step process. It entails oxidation of the p‐diamine to the p‐benzoquinonedi‐imine, which, as its conjugate acid, reacts with the arylamine to give a diarninodiphenylamine. Rapid oxidation of this gives an indamine that reacts, as its conjugate acid, with a second molecule of the arylamine to give a tetramino compound that is rapidly oxidised to the corresponding arylaminoindamine. The latter compound, in the form of its conjugate acid, undergoes intramolecular cyclisation, followed by rapid oxidation, to give the phenosafranine. In dilute solution (˜10‐4m), all but the four oxidation steps are slow and proceed at comparable rates, whereas, under preparative conditions, the arylamine addition and the intramolecular cyclisation are the slow steps.
Curing of Polyurethane Prepolymers II‐Thermal Stability on Wool
Authors: RIPPON J. A. , WHITE M. A.
Published: July 2010

During the curing or finishing of polyurethane‐treated wool, the effectiveness of the shrink‐resist treatment can be reduced by overtreatment at high temperatures. The thermal sensitivity is greater when the polymer is uncured and increases with increasing molecular weight of the prepolymer. Under industrial conditions of steam curing, the rise of temperature on the surface of the fabric, caused by the heat of absorption of water by dry wool, is sometimes sufficient to cause loss of effectiveness. Partially polymerised prepolymer can be cured by heating alone, but further heating causes degradation. Possible mechanisms for the thermal degradation are discussed.
The Causes of Anomalous Results in the Measurement of Wool Fibre Swelling
Authors: Asquith R. S. , Booth A. K. , Cockett K. R. F. , Rattee I. D. , Stevens C. B.
Published: July 2010

The causes of anomalous results obtained in the measurement of the swelling of wool fibres by different methods have been investigated. The British Standard method (BS 2043) and the fixed‐point method were examined. When urea solutions are used as the swelling media, the results obtained by the two methods differ considerably. The short lengths of fibre used in the BS 2043 method are well within the fibre dimensions for swelling to occur by end penetration and hence give results that can be misleading when related to the swelling of undamaged fibres during processing. When the swelling agent itself can penetrate the fibre wall, either method will give reliable results. When, however, the agent can show colligative osmotic properties typical of many non‐volatile salts, discrepancies may arise between the two methods.
Prediction of Colour Change in Dye Equilibria I‐Azo and Hydrazone Tautomers and Anions of 4‐Phenylazo‐1‐naphthols
Authors: Griffiths J.
Published: July 2010

When a dye can exist in two forms in equilibrium, the difference in frequency between their visible absorption bands should exhibit a linear relation with Hammett substituent constants. This has been tested successfully with the 4‐phenylazo‐1‐naphthols for the frequency shifts between their azo and hydrazone tautomeric forms and their common anions in alkali. The practical and theoretical significance of these results is discussed.
Bleaching Cellulosic Fabrics with Hydrogen Peroxide at Short Liquor: Goods Ratios
Authors: Dickinson K. , Heathcote D.
Published: July 2010

The important factors governing the satisfactory bleaching of cellulosic fabrics with hydrogen peroxide at short liquor: goods ratios are considered. They are: silicate and alkali concentration, metal impurities, and temperature and time of bleaching. The suitability of the equipment available for short‐liquor pad‐steam continuous peroxide bleaching is considered. Finally, the prospects of solvent preparation are assessed briefly.
Adsorption of Cationic Dyes by Acrylic Films I—Sorption Isotherms
Authors: Harwood R. J. , McGregor R. , Peters R. H.
Published: July 2010

Sorption isotherms have been determined for five basic dyes on films prepared from an acrylic polymer. The results can be explained by an ion‐exchange mechanism over 80% of the concentration range, or by a simple ion‐distribution mechanism over the whole of the range. Addition of sodium ions reduces the dye uptake in accordance with the suggested mechanism. Isotherms of a dye mixture have shown that competition occurs, and the ‘ion selectivity’ constants calculated from these results agree well with those derived using the dyes singly.
Steric and Electronic Effects in Basic Dyes
Authors: Ferguson Angus S. , Hallas Geoffrey
Published: July 2010

Absorption spectra of several derivatives of Malachite Green containing more than one substituent in the phenyl ring have been examined. In most cases where steric effects are unimportant an additive relationship is found between the electronic effects of the substituents and the position of the first‐frequency absorption band. The presence of a second unsaturated electron‐withdrawing group in the phenyl ring leads to a further reduction in the intensity of the first band. In certain cases, the overall electron‐withdrawal is such that the equilibrium between dye‐base and univalent dye cation in acid solution is shifted in favour of the former species.
Dyeing of Texturised Polyester Yarn
Authors: Kenneth J. , Kelly S.
Published: July 2010

The paper describes a study of many factors which play a significant part in the dyeing of texturised‐polyester yarn at high temperatures. The variables chosen for study are the selection of disperse dyes to give the desired fastness properties, coverage of dyeing‐substantivity differences before, during and at the end of the dyeing process. The effects of different types of dispersing agents on dispersion properties and the selection and behaviour of different types of ‘carrier’ suitable for high‐temperature dyeing are also considered, the latter in relation to levelling, dye yields, ability to compensate for small differences in dyeing temperature, coverage of yarn variations, minimisation of dye and oligomer crystallisation at the end of dyeing and the stability of the ‘carriers’ themselves. The formation and behaviour of oligomer have also been investigated. Factors governing the choice of optimum dyeing cycles for polyester yarn are also reviewed.
Theoretical Aspects of the Role of Fibre Structure in Dyeing
Authors: PETERS RAYMOND H. , INGAMELLS WILFRED
Published: July 2010

A comparison is made between the pore theory and the free‐volume theory as applied to the diffusion of dyes through fibres. The usefulness and the limitations of the theories are discussed, and the use of the free‐volume theory for explaining the mechanism of carrier action during dyeing is described.
A Novel and Comprehensive Final Finishing Process for Worsted and Related Fabrics
Authors: Bissett Ian S. , Medley John A. , Pullin John S. , Wrennall Leslie M.
Published: July 2010

In conventional processing, handle, thickness, lustre, dimensional stability, etc., are largely determined by the three final finishing processes known as pressing (hydraulic or rotary), blowing and high‐temperature decatising (the last being essentially a ‘setting’ process). The significant changes in fabric properties which are brought about in these three industrial procedures are briefly mentioned, and emphasis is given to the results that can be achieved in respect of fabric compression and subsequent recovery. There are serious limitations to the extent to which a high degree of compression can be permanently ‘set’ into fabric when it is in roll form, and also to the permanence of finish that can be achieved by continuous blowing or pressing.

The principles underlying the proposed new process are then described. Data are given for the compression and recovery characteristics obtained with this process, and these are compared with the results of conventional methods.

The paper consists of an account of the development of a machine for industrial production, indicating some of the problems that have had to be solved, and ends with an assessment of its anticipated commercial advantages.
Development of Techniques for Studying Dye Penetration in Rapid Carpet Coloration Processes
Authors: Barker Paul G. H. , Crawshaw Geoffrey H. , Ince John
Published: July 2010

A programme of work designed to assess the suitability of modern methods of colouring carpets (continuous dyeing, carpet printing, yarn printing) for wool revealed few problems for the fibre, but ring‐dyed fibres could result from any of the processes. The performance defect associated with ring dyeing was abrasion frosting in use. It seemed that ring dyeing could be due to excessive oil residues, incorrect selection of dyes or chemicals, or too short a steaming time. A systematic investigation was indicated, but existing techniques for measuring ring dyeing were too tedious to provide adequate data.

An existing test for assessing abrasion frosting in furnishing fabrics has been modified for use with carpets. In addition, a rapid electronics method for measuring dye penetration into fibre cross‐sections has been developed. Some preliminary results are presented.
Education and the Coloration Industries
Authors: Stevens Cyril B.
Published: July 2010

Technical education for the coloration industries is reviewed with particular reference to course and syllabus content, the needs of industry, and the development of the ability and capability of students. The Associateship examination scheme of the Society is considered in detail in relation to aims and content, achievements, possible developments and future prospects. The current position and future of technical education is outlined and discussed briefly.
Practical Vacuum Impregnation
Authors: Fox Maurice R.
Published: July 2010

Impregnation of difficulty wettable substrates by exposing the dry substrate to a sufficiently low atmospheric pressure to remove occluded air, followed then by immersion in aqueous baths with a final return to atmospheric pressure, gives thoroughly saturated substrates in a fraction of the normal time. This process was first described in patent literature in 1966 and then in the Journal a year later [1]. Considerable progress has since been made in the practical development of the process. Advances in this new technology are described; commercial machines are now available. Comparisons of bulk findings with those anticipated from the early laboratory work are reported.
The Preparation and Assessment of a Series of Pure Dye Acids
Authors: Nursten Harry E. , Williams Kenneth E.
Published: July 2010

High‐load paper chromatography has shown previous preparations of the free acids of C.I. Acid Red 88, 13, and 27 to have been impure, although their purity, like that of the free acids of C.I. Acid Orange 7 and 8, had seemed satisfactory according to spectrophotometric examination and titration with alkali and titanous chloride. Reasons are given for the lack of sensitivity of these latter methods when used without supporting data from high‐load paper chromatography. The preparation of pure samples of these dye acids is described, together with appropriate analytical data.
The Real Cost to Industry of Fabric Faults
Authors: LEVY ISIDORE
Published: July 2010

Using an annual turnover figure for the U.K. dyeing and finishing industry of £150 million, the author shows how the industry may be wasting up to £71/2 million per year through faults arising during processing. All dyers must examine their processing routes to attempt to make savings in this respect. One approach is to modernise the equipment used, making greater use of instrumentation and automation.
Colour Differences in Azo Pigments
Authors: GLOVER BRIAN , PATTERSON DAVID
Published: July 2010

Four azo pigments ‐ C.I. Pigment Red 1 and 6, Yellow 1 and Orange 6 ‐ have been prepared using a continuous coupling process under a range of conditions of pH, coupling temperature, concentration and rate of flow. The colour and size distribution of the pigments have been measured, the latter using a modified optical centrifuge for which new conversion factors have been determined. Continuous methods generally give lower particle sizes than comparable batch methods. This is discussed in terms of theories of nucleation and growth, as is the potential industrial application of continuous coupling.
Sixteen Years with Reactive Dyes A Dyer's Experiences
Authors: Ferguson Derek A.
Published: July 2010

Held at the University of Bradford, on 1 November 1972, the Immediate Past President of the Society, Mr R. K. Foumess in the chair

A dyeing technologist's view of the development of reactive dyes over the 16 year's of their use, particularly in the package dyeing of sewing threads.
The History and Use of the Freundlich Adsorption Isotherm
Authors: Giles Charles H.
Published: July 2010

The history of the log—log plot of adsorption of a gas or solute against the concentration in the external phase, usually known as the Freundlich isotherm, is traced, from its first use by Boedeker in 1859, in studying adsorption of inorganic compounds by soil, and its applicability to dye—fibre systems is described.
The Role of Benzyl Alcohol in the Solvent–assisted Dyeing of Acrylic Fibres
Authors: GUR–ARIEH ZEEV , INGAMELLS WILFRED C.
Published: July 2010

The mechanism of the solvent–assisted dyeing of acrylic fibres using benzyl alcohol has been investigated. The carrier action of benzyl alcohol plays a major role in increasing the rate of dyeing.
The Plasticisation and Swelling of Acrilan under Dyebath conditions
Authors: GUR–ARIEH ZEEV , INGAMELLS WILFRED
Published: July 2010

Measurements have been made which show that there is no predictable connection between fibre swelling and the plasticisation of acrylic fibres. The diffusion of dyes into the fibres is controlled by the segmental mobility of the fibrous polymer chains and not by fibre swelling.
Fibre–reactive Basic Dyes I–Polymethine Dyes Containing the N–Chloroacetyl Group
Authors: GALE DOUGLAS J. , WILSHIRE JOHN F. K.
Published: July 2010

Several fibre–reactive basic (polymethine) dyes containing the N–chloroacetyl group have been prepared. They had better washing fastness on wool than their non–reactive analogues.

Exhaustion figures were obtained in the usual way (colorimetrically) for all the dyes in Table 1 at the following pH: 2. 5, 3. 6, 4. 7, 5. 8, 6. 9 and 8. 4. However, these results were not in accord with visual assessments of the depths and it appears likely that some decomposition of the dyes takes place, in the presence of wool, particularly at higher pH values.
New Developments in Acrylic Carpet Fibres for Specific End–uses
Authors: FRYER S. E.
Published: July 2010

There is considerable activity in the introduction of new acrylic fibres, and second–and third–generation fibres are being developed for specific end–uses. Bicomponent fibres have found considerable application in woven carpets because their increased bulk and cover offer advantages over traditionally used fibres. Improved flame–resistant fibres incorporating halogen compounds have been developed to meet flammability requirements for carpets. Modacrylic blends are used for shag and some ‘saxony’ (high–pile low–density) applications. Three acrylic fibres of different dyeability have been developed for continuous piece dyeing: reduced–affinity basic, regular or deep basic, and acidic. Rapid–dyeing fibres are being introduced for use on the Craw ford–Mohasco equipment with which the fixation time is limited to 3 min at 100°C Finally, highshrinkage fibres can be used to impart extra bulk and cover or alternatively to produce sculptured effects in woven or tufted carpets.
Multiple Coloration of Carpets in Piece Form
Authors: DAWSON TIMOTHY L.
Published: July 2010

The three main methods of producing multicolour patterns on carpet piece, other than by conventional printing, are reviewed under the general classification of:

Winch dy eing of carp ets composed of producer– or dyer–modified yarns.

The application of multicolour dye streams, continuously or intermittently, under continuous–processing conditions.

Transfer of patterns from suitably impregnated papers.

Process requirements and limitations are discussed in general terms.
Some Fundamental Aspects of Transfer Printing
Authors: JONES FRANCIS , LEUNG T. S. M.
Published: July 2010

Conventional studies of integral sorption rates to determine diffusion coefficients cannot be applied to transfer printing. A simple technique based on the Daynes time–lag method is described which allows the steady–state diffusion coefficients of dyes to be determined under conditions of transfer printing. Both diffusion coefficients and activation energies of diffusion are similar to those found in vapour–phase and heat–fixation methods of dyeing. The saturation values and extent of fibre–bundle penetration by dye vapour are discussed in terms of dye flux to the surface and mean free–path lengths over a range of ambient pressures.
The Effect of Reactive Dyes on the Main–chain Scission of Wool on Exposure to Light
Authors: BAUMANN HANNO
Published: July 2010

The extent of the photo–oxidative scission of the main peptide chain of native and reactive–dyed wool has been investigated by a DNP–analysis technique. The total end–group content of native wool, as well as that of dyed wool, is increased sharply by photo–oxidation. This increase is somewhat smaller in native wool than in dyed wool. The changes in individual N–terminal amino–acid contents vary widely in both dyed and native wool. Although the content of N–terminal threonine remains practically unchanged, that of N–terminal glycine increases very sharply, and high increases in aspartic acid, alanine, and glutamic acid also occur. The increase in content of N–terminal serine and valine is smaller.
Structural Studies of Shrink‐resist Polymers for Wool: The Influence of Molecular Weight and Functionality in Polypropylene Oxide Polyisocyanates
Authors: Guise G. Bruce , Rushforth Michael A.
Published: July 2010

A series of polypropylene oxide diols and triols of different molecular weights was reacted with excess hexamethylene di‐isocyanate to form polyisocyanates. These polymers were applied to wool, steam‐cured, and examined in shrink‐resist and durable‐press treatments. Some difunctional polymers were effective in shrink‐resisting wool even though the cured polymer should be essentially uncrosslinked. This was attributed to interchain hydrogen bonding in the cured polymer. Optimum ranges for the functionality and molecular weight of this type of polymer for use on wool are discussed.
The Fast and the Fugitive: Light Fastness Testing of Dyed Textiles up to the 1870s
Authors: Forrester Stanley D.
Published: July 2010

The older literature has been surveyed to assess if any attempts had been made to determine systematically and scientifically the light fastness properties of the natural dyes. In the period under review (up to the 1870's) only Dufay in the early 1730's seems to have carried out a vigorous series of comparitive tests including the measurement of the total actinic energy falling on the dyed patterns by a fading standard. Otherwise the light fastness properties are never tabulated and are only mentioned infrequently and not consistently in the descriptions of the dyes.
A Method for Determining the Distribution of Cationic Shrink‐resist Resins on Wool*
Authors: GARCIA‐DOMINGUEZ J. , JULIA M. R. , de la MAZA A. , PUJOL J. M. , SANCHEZ J. , SHAW T.
Published: July 2010

A method for determining the distribution of cationic shrink‐resist resins on wool has been developed. The method is based on a staining technique, using an anionic fluorescent brightening agent (FBA) under specific conditions in which the FBA stains the cationic resin in preference to the wool. When the stained samples are observed under ultraviolet radiation by means of the optical microscope, the areas on the wool fibres where resin is located fluoresce, whereas areas free from resin appear dark. The technique is simple and rapid, and enables the regularity of deposition of cationic resins on wool to be followed when the various parameters which play a role in the pretreatment of the fibre and the application of resins are changed. Regularity of resin deposition is important in the achievement of high levels of shrink‐resistance in treated fabrics.
A Qualitative Detection of Hercosett 57 in extremely Dilute Solutions
Authors: LEWIS JAMES
Published: July 2010

The detection of Hercosett in very dilute solution is described. By using this simple technique it is possible to monitor the exhaustion of resin from a dilute bath during, e.g. a batch treatment of garments – even if a high concentration of sodium bisulphite is present also. Experiments have demonstrated conclusively, that the detection of the resin, at dilutions of the order of 1:100,000 is feasible.
The Milling of Wool Garments in Perchloroethylene: A Review of Processing Procedures and Practice
Authors: WHITE MAX A.
Published: July 2010

The milling of wool garments in perchlorethylene to produce lamb'swool, cashmere, Shetland and other finishes is now widely used. The paper reviews existing procedures for milling wool garments in solvent and discusses variables important in achieving the required uniform finish.
Measurement of Concentration Profiles by the Method of Optical Sectioning
Authors: RAIS JIRÍ , MILITKÝ JIRÍ , SCHNABLOV́A BLAŽENA
Published: July 2010

In this paper a relationship is derived enabling the description of a general concentration profile in a cylindrical fibre from data obtained by the optical sectioning method.
Photoconductivity and Fading
Authors: HORTON F. J. , PATTERSON D. , RIZZO F. J.
Published: July 2010

The conductivity of purified films of the eight dyes used in the ISO Light‐fastness Test have been studied both in the dark and under illumination by the visible and ultra‐violet radiation from a mercury vapour lamp. All eight dyes behaved as n‐type semiconductors and additionally those of light fastness ratings five and above showed p‐type semiconduction. All the dyes also behaved as photoconductors and the activation energies of photoconduction were between one third and one fifth of those for semiconduction. Very rapid response to illumination was shown by the dyes of highest light fastness. Although the dyes were of five different chemical types, some tentative rules relating properties to light fastness can be formulated. These are: (1) Dyes should show p‐type and n‐type semicon‐ductivity. (2) Response time of photo‐conduction should be short. (3) In the case of dyes of similar structure, higher activation energies for photoconduction favour higher light fastness.
Isoreactive Dyeing Systems
Authors: CEGARRA J. , PUENTE P. , VALLDEPERAS J.
Published: July 2010

An isoreactive dyeing system is a system in which the sorption rate is kept constant throughout the whole kinetic period. A theoretical study of this condition was carried out using the modified kinetic equation of Cegarra–Puente and the Arrhenius equation. The isoreactivity equation is used to determine the conditions of temperature–time which should be applied during dyeing to achieve constant sorption at different sorption times. Finally, the theoretical values and those found experimentally in the dyeing systems: wool–acid dyes, viscose rayon–direct dyes and acrylic fibres–cationic dyes are compared.
1,4‐Dihydroxyanthraquinone‐2‐thioethers. Dyes for Synthetic‐polymer Fibres
Authors: PETERS ARNOLD T. , TENNY BRIAN A.
Published: July 2010

The synthesis of a series of 2‐thioethers of 1,4‐dihydroxyanthraquinone by various preparative routes is described. The colour, dyeing and fastness properties on synthetic‐polymer fibres of these dyes is discussed in terms of the nature of the substituent in the thiol group. 2‐(2‐aminophenylthio)‐l, 4‐dihydroxyanthraquinone, which gave the new heterocycle 6,13‐dihydroxyanthra‐[2,3‐b]benzo[d] thiophen‐7,12‐dione on Pschorr intramoleadar cyclization, was observed to undergo cyclization, during both its synthesis and its application to polyester fibres, to the blue coloured 7‐hydroxy‐14H‐mphtho[2,3‐a] pheno‐thiazine‐8,13‐dione.
Process Advantages and Economics of Hot Mercerizing/Flash Scouring
Authors: DUCKWORTH C. , WRENNALL L. M.
Published: July 2010

This paper describes the basic principles of hot mercerizing, which can be combined with scouring by including a steaming chamber in the mercerizing sequence. It outlines the benefits that arise from adoption of the new process in respect of improved finished‐fabric properties and by way of economic advantages in capital cost and works layout and various operating costs such as labour, power, steam, water, etc. The operating costs of the new process have been accurately calculated and are displayed in this paper as tabular comparisons with costs of plant employing traditional mercerizing and scouring procedures.
Steric and Electronic Effects in Basic Dyes
Authors: Gandhi Sham S. , Hallas Geoffrey , Thomasson Jeffrey
Published: July 2010

Absorption spectra of nine derivatives of Malachite Green containing two or three methoxy groups in the phenyl ring have been examined. In the absence of varying steric effects an excellent additive relationship is found between the electronic effects of the substituents and the position of the first electronic absorption band. Conformational changes brought about by crowding substituents are detected by an increase in intensity of the first band accompanied by a decrease in intensity of the second band.
Azide Reactive Dyes
Authors: Griffiths John , McDarmaid R. Ian
Published: July 2010

Reactive dyes containing a sulphonylazide group can undergo fixation on nylon substrates by two different mechanisms. Under aqueous dyeing conditions, at or below 120d̀ C, the free amino end‐groups of the polymer attack the sulphonylazide group with displacement of azide ion, and results in attachment of the dye to the substrate by a sulphonamide linkage. In contrast, if the dyed substrate is subjected to dry heat fixation at 170d̀ C, the azide group decomposes to a sulphonylnitrene species which undergoes insertion into C‐H bonds of the polymer. The dye is again attached by a sulphonamide bridge, but in this case the amount of dye that can be fixed is independent of the amino end‐group content of the polymer.
Scientific Aspects of Transfer Printing
Authors: GRIFFITHS J. , JONES F.
Published: July 2010

The mechanism of vapour phase transfer printing is described on the basis that the process involves a 3‐phase system consisting of a printed dye layer separated from a fabric by air space. The behaviour of dye in each phase under transfer printing conditions is examined and recent experimental results on differential air flow and permeability of printed paper are described. Finally the development of disperse and other dye structures for specific use in transfer printing is reviewed.
Dye‐transfer Printing Systems Relying on the Use of Substrate Pre‐treatment
Authors: HEYWOOD D. W. , LAMBERT D. S.
Published: July 2010

The use of transfer printing techniques on synthetic polymer fibres is now well‐established. Until recently, however, similar techniques on cellulose and mixtures containing appreciable percentages of cellulosic fibres were not commercially practical or acceptable because the colours were skittery and wash fastness was generally poor.

The process described enables full, bright colours to be produced on fabrics composed of synthetic‐cellulosic fibre blends (mainly polyester‐cotton) and even on all‐cotton; it requires a pre‐treatment of the fabric with a resin formulation, which can usually be applied on conventional resin finishing equipment.

Investigations have shown that some amino resins did accept dyes of the disperse type, and did produce acceptable prints, but it was generally found that the fastness properties of most were poor and the results comparable with that of acrylic, resin‐treated fabrics.

Further investigations led to the identification of the resin structure giving the best fastness properties, but, at the same time when using conventional papers, even with the right resin, these fastness properties varied from dye to dye.
‘Masked’ Isocyanates as Reactive Groups for obtaining Dyes of High Fastness to Washing
Authors: KIRKPATRICK A. , MACLAREN J. A.
Published: July 2010

Reactive dyes for wool which incorporate a water‐stable bisulphite‐isocyanate adduct as the ‘masked’ reactive group can be applied in the form of levelling acid dyes. High fastness to washing on wool can subsequently be attained by fixing the dye with alkali or steam treatments.