bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Impressions of IT MA 1979 (Hanover)
Authors: Bent Christopher J. , Glover Brian , Lewis John F
Published: July 2010

Little of intrinsic novelty for either the textile dyer or printer was on exhibition at Hanover, Refinements to existing machines were many, particularly geared at reducing energy requirements, conserving resources and/or increasing the versatility of substrates handled.

The manufacturers of jet dyeing machines (both atmospheric and high–temperature) were noteworthy in this respect, and although there were several exhibits of mercerizing machines for knitgoods, there was no–one yet tackling the fully continuous coloration of them.

Washing ranges was another sector where everyone was exhibiting improved machines, usually featuring dwell chambers, counter–current and very low water usage per treated kg of fabric. So/vent washing ranges were featured for preparation and for washing–off of printed synthetic fabrics.

Printing machinery, with the exception of the Penta–screen (Stork), showed no novelty.

Two suppliers offered indigo dyeing ranges and reported still buoyant interest. Radio frequency, with the exception of Pegg's Electrodry and Stray field's Fastran, received scant attention, whilst dyehouse control systems were more prominent. Finally, three machines (two based on foam techniques) were exhibited which have minimum liquor pick–up as alternatives to padding mangles. Whilst the two foam applicators (Gaston County and Kuster) are both currently being developed for resin finishing, their extension into dye application will be almost inevitable. The third machine, based on centrifugal sprays of droplets (Farmer Norton), looked more speculative with respect to its future adoption. It is not possible in this review to fully describe all the machines which were on display. Accordingly, we have concentrated on machines which were new or novel in some respect, particularly where we felt that these could have an impact on the trade.
Relationship between the Practical Saturation Value and Dyeing Kinetics of Basic–dyeable Poly (ethylene terephthalate) Fibres
Authors: Kryšt˚ufek Jiří , Militký Jiří
Published: July 2010

To characterize the maximum amount of basic dye bonded to basic–dyeable polyester fibres under practical dyeing conditions, the term ‘practical saturation value’ has been introduced. The connection between this quantity and the kinetics of dyeing is indicated and methods for calculating it are discussed.
Studies on Some New Reactive Disperse Dyes
Authors: Farag Ahmed A. , Mahmouc Hassan S. , Nassa Ahmed M. G. , Shawki Ahmed
Published: July 2010

The preparation of some new reactive disperse dyes which can be used for dyeing 100% synthetic and fibre blends is described. The preparation of some disperse dyes containing a chlorohydrin group is also described. This radical is the precursor of the epoxide reactive group in the active form of these dyes. Dyeings produced on various fibre blends by a two–stage high–temperature and by a carrier–dyeing technique are assessed. It was found that dyeings produced by the high–temperature technique were brighter, more level and possessed much better technical properties than those obtained using the carrier–dyeing method. The fastness properties of dyed samples were determined and found to be comparable with those of conventional disperse and reactive dyes. The colour yield was also determined in order to examine the possibility of obtaining deep dyeings on blended fibres, and to evaluate the potential commercial use of these dyes for dyeing blends as well as 100% synthetic–polymer fibres.
Polynomial Approximations Describing Rate of Dyeing from a Finite Bath
Authors: Shibusawa Takao
Published: July 2010

Three polynomial approximations to Wilson's equation were derived by means of Hastings's method. One of them is an approximation to Crank's equation with 3–figure accuracy and it approximates to Wilson's epuation very closely for high values of fractional equilibrium exhaustion (E), E > 0. 95. Two other polynomials approximate to Wilson's equation very well in the ranges 0. 95 > EX). 76 and 0. 76 > E > 0. 30 respectively. The polynomials derived here only include up to second order terms, so that by using the equations which are obtained by solving the polynomials for diffusion coefficient (D), D can easily be calculated from experimental dye uptake data.

By using the polynomial approximation, the changes in rate–of–dyeing of a non–ionic dye on a nylon 6 fibre by addition of a dispersing agent were calculated. Results of the experiment agreed well with the calculated.
Publication Sponsored by the Society's Scarce Resources Committee‐II
Authors: Collis P. W.
Published: July 2010

The Scarce Resources Committee welcomes any comments readers of this paper wish to make. These should be addressed to Mr M. Roberts, The Technical and Education Officer, The Society of Dyers & Colourists, PO Box 244, Perkin House, 82 Grattan Road, Bradford, West Yorkshire BD1 2JB.

The price of oil has risen by approximately 70% in 1979 giving greater need to conserve energy. This paper demonstrates that savings of 30% can easily be made in relation to stenters. The basic thinking behind the work could be applied to other processes.
The Use of Disperse Dyes Containing Diester Groups and Fibre Reactive Dyes Containing Phosphonic Acid Reactive Groups to Produce New Discharge and Resist Printing Styles on Polyester, Cellulose and Polyester– Cellulose
Authors: Glover Brian , Hansford John A.
Published: July 2010

Finally it is shown how, by combining the above two techniques described for polyester and cellulosic fabrics, it is possible to obtain discharge prints on polyester–cellulose with a design potential not previously obtainable. Special emphasis is given to describing the implementation of the technique to practical situations.
Evaluation of Disperse Dye Solubility/Stability at High Temperature by a Fractional Filtration Technique
Authors: Odvárka Jaroslav , Schejbalová Hana , Gärtner Frantiek
Published: July 2010

A novel method of fractional pressure filtration is used to test disperse dyes under high–temperature conditions. The method can be used for the determination of the solubility of disperse dyes, solubitizing power of dispersing agents and dispersion stability of disperse dyes.
Effect of the Structure of Metallized Pyrazole–monoazo Dyes on their Chromatic Behaviour
Authors: Folli U. , Iarossi D. , Vivarelli P. , Battisti R.
Published: July 2010

A number of metal complexes of l–substituted–3–pyrazolylazo compounds have been synthesized and their relative visible spectra recorded in acetonitrile solution. The chromatic dependence of these dyes on type of completing metal cation, structure of coupling component, and pyrazole system used, has been studied and is discussed.
Revision of the Scheme for Extraction and Classification of Dyes from Polyacrylonitrile Fibres
Authors: Home J. M. , Dudley RJ.
Published: July 2010

The simple sequential scheme for the extraction and classification of dyes from 1–2–cm lengths of polyacrylonitrile fibres reported by Beattie et al., J. S. D. C, 95 (1979) 295, is revised to avoid misclassification of some basic dyes.
Visual and Instrumental Colour Control in the Paper Industry
Authors: McConnell D. J.
Published: July 2010

The way in which a combination of visual and instrumental assessments is used to control the colours of a wide variety of papers is outlined.

Some thoughts on the most economical balance between instrumental and visual methods are also given.
The Development of Pass/Fail Colour Matching Formulae for Single Number Shade Passing
Authors: McDonald Roderick
Published: July 2010

A series of modifications to the ANLAB colour–difference formula is described which has progressively improved the agreement between the formula and the pass/fail decisions of visual observers. The latest modification, the JPC 79 formula has been suggested as a viable alternative to visual colour matching.
The Use of Colour–difference Formulae in the Leather Industry
Authors: Landmann A. W. , Rowe K. J.
Published: July 2010

There has been an interest in colour measurement and the measurement of colour differences for a considerable number of years in the leather industry. A brief outline of their use and of the related problems is given and the application of colour–difference equations to matching, sorting and specifications is reviewed. Particular attention is drawn to the fact that no single colour–difference formula is likely to be acceptable for all productions of leather.
Cost Saving by Heat Recovery. 1 – Stenters
Authors: WEAVER TA , HAMPSHIRE D.
Published: July 2010

From Mr T A Weaver Sir, I read with interest the above publication [J. S. D. C., 96 (June 1980) 305], and feel that observations arising from our own experience in supplying stenters over a number of years may be appropriate.
Economics of Dye Manufacture in the 1980's
Authors: Gow J. S. , Booth G.
Published: July 2010

Economics of dye manufacture are reviewed as a basis for projecting development over the next decade. The conclusion is that major process and plant technology changes are unlikely to be of great significance to the overall economics of dyes production in the 1980's. Although relatively minor changes in process technology will occur, they will be aimed mainly at improved productivity of both capital and labour by rationalization and streamlining of existing types of plant.
Testing for Compliance with a Performance Specification
Authors: Jaeckel S. M.
Published: July 2010

Statistical data from an inter!aboratory trial of a new test method are applied to yield advice on quality–control criteria. It is shown how repeatabilities and reproducibilities of the test can be converted into critical differences for comparison with a specified fastness rating. Adding the right critical difference to the rating tells one what result to lay down as a quality–control target for a defined, high probability of the bulk goods conforming to the specified rating. The difference between ‘two–tailed’ and ‘one–tailed’ limits is explained. The stages in the procedure described include: correlating critical difference with fastness rating; comparing limits for different numbers and types of tests and assessors; suggesting the most useful procedures; deriving the minimum results needed to satisfy different specifications for the particular test; and explaining the related appendix to the test method on precision for quality control. Information is given on ways to alter limits according to particular needs.
Energy in the 1980's
Authors: Slesser Malcolm
Published: July 2010

Presented to the Scottish Region at a one–day conference entitled ‘A Profile of the 80s’, held at the Eurocrest Hotel, Glasgow, on 23 May 1980.
A Screening Test for Substances that can Cause Yellowing of White Textiles During Storage
Authors: McEwan John , Murdoch William
Published: July 2010

Complaints of the yellowing of white garments during storage led to a study of the effects of atmospheric gaseous contaminants. Previously published work is summarized. Tests to determine the effect of nitrogen dioxide on fluorescent brightening agents (FBA) and other substances present in white textiles are described. The yellow components formed after exposure of the most susceptible FBA examined to nitrogen dioxide have been isolated by thin layer chromatography (t. l. c). Other causes of yellowing are briefly discussed.
Synthesis and Electronic Spectra of Some Disperse Dyes Derived from N—2—Cyanoethyl—1,2,3,4—tetrahydroquinoline
Authors: Hallas Geoffrey , Saadatjou Naghi
Published: July 2010

Various monoazo dyes suitable for transfer printing have been prepared from N—2cyanoethyl—1, 2, 3, 4—tetrahydroquinoline and compared with the corresponding N—methyl (kairoline) derivatives. The presence of a β—cyanoethyl group brings about significant hypsochromic shifts of the first absorption band and leads to some improvement in light—fastness properties on polyester fibre.
Annual Dinner
Authors: Dinner Annual
Published: July 2010

The Ninety–seventh Annual Dinner of the Society was held in the Peacock Suite, Hotel Piccadilly, Piccadilly Plaza, Manchester, on Friday 24 April 1981, under the presidency of Dr J V Butcher. The principal guest was Norman Tebbit, Esq, MP, Minister of State, Department of Industry. Some 370 members and guests were present.
The Ef]fect of a Synthetic Tanning Agent on the uptake of Acid Dyes by Nylon 6
Authors: Guthrie J. , Cook C. C.
Published: July 2010

The effect of pretreating various nylon 6 fibres with a synthetic tanning agent on the rates of dyeing of five acid dyes has been studied. From the adsorption properties of these dyes on nylon 6 samples differing in amine end‐group content, it is shown that as the basicity of the dye increases, the saturation value tends to approach more closely to the content of amine end‐groups in the fibre. For a monobasic, hydrophobic dye, the saturation value is not governed by the amine end‐group content of the fibre. Assuming that an increase in hydrophobicity results in a higher dye anion affinity, it is suggested that as the affinity of the dye for the fibre increases, the rate of dyeing becomes less affected by the presence of the synthetic tanning agent. For dyes of low affinity and greater hydrophilic character, the rate of dyeing of pretreated nylon is initially low but increases as the dyeing proceeds. It is postulated that this is caused by the initial deposition of the syntan in the outer regions of the fibre acting as a partial barrier to dye diffusion. Although the syntan does not desorb significantly during dyeing, it diffuses slowly into the fibre and gradually loses some of its retarding influence.
Latest Developments in the Batchwise Application of Hot‐dyeing Reactive Dyes to Cellulosic Knitwear
Authors: Bent C J , Davies P A , Phillips D A S
Published: July 2010

A dyeing profile for a range of reactive dyes suitable for application to cellulosic knitwear is defined. Such a profile shows good level‐dyeing, reproducibility and fastness properties together with potential for simplified dyeing processes.
New Intermediates and Dyes for Synthetic‐polymer Fibres. N‐Alkylated Derivatives of 4‐anilino‐8‐amino‐1,5‐dihydroxyanthraquinone and of 4‐anilino‐5‐amino‐1,8‐dihydroxyanthraquinone
Authors: Lee Chi‐Sun , Peters Arnold T
Published: July 2010

N‐alkylated derivatives of 4‐anilino‐8‐amino‐1,5‐dihydroxy‐anthraquinone and of 4‐anilino‐5‐amino‐1,8‐dihydroxy‐anthraquinone are obtained either by reaction of the corresponding nitro derivatives with alk ylamines or of the corresponding amino derivatives with alkyl halides. They are excellent dyes for polyester fibre, giving deep greenish‐blue dyeings of good fastness to light and sublimation.
Changes in Energy Consumption in the French Textile Finishing Industry between 1973 and 1980
Authors: Freytag R. , Viallier P.
Published: July 2010

Energy costs have escalated dramatically over the last few years and this has meant that consumers have been anxious to find ways of economizing. In France there is a unique situation since the Government made it mandatory for significant savings in energy to be made. Secondly, the Government has also decreed that a substantial proportion of the energy used should be electricity. This paper describes how the textile industry in France has dealt with these two factors and indicates a number of ways by which energy savings can be achieved.
Preparation, Dyeing and Finishing of Tussah or Wild Silk
Authors: Liddiard A G
Published: July 2010

A short description of the production of tussah (wild silk) is given. The degumming, batch dyeing, semi‐continuous dyeing and finishing of tussah yams and fibres are described.
Sublimation Transfer Printing of Wool with Metallizable Dyes
Authors: Brady P Rex , Cookson Peter G , Fincher Keith W , Lewis David M
Published: July 2010

The transfer printing of pretreated wool using sublimable dyes that form metal complexes on the fibre during printing is described. The most successful pretreatment involved padding a mixture of chromic chloride, an an ionic surfactant, urea and lactic acid and then drying. Low molecular‐weight monoazo dyes containing salicylic acid residues, or hydroxyl or amino groups on carbon atoms in two ortho positions relative to the azo group, were screen printed onto transfer papers. Optimum heating conditions for transferring dye from paper to fabric were 200d̀C for 30 s. After separation of the transfer paper, the fabric was steamed at 100d̀C for 30 min. Prints with good fastness properties were obtained in a wide range of colours. The method offers promise for commercial transfer printing of pure wool fabric.
Synthesis and Electronic Spectra of Some Monoazo Disperse Dyes Derived from N‐Methylindoline
Authors: Hallas Geoffrey , Ho Swee F
Published: July 2010

Several monoazo dyes suitable for transfer printing have been prepared from N‐methylindoline and compared with the corresponding derivatives of N‐methyl ‐12,3,4‐tetrahy‐droquinoline (kairoline). The presence of a five‐membered terminal ring system leads to diminished π‐interaction and results in modest hypsochromic and hypochromic shifts of the visible absorption band, relative to the analogous kairo‐line derivatives, together with some deterioration in light‐fastness properties on synthetic‐polymer fibres.
New Dyes and Intermediates for Synthetic‐polymer Fibres. 7,7‐Dioxo‐Benzo(K, /)thioxan‐thene‐3,4‐dicarboxylic Acid Imides
Authors: Kadhim Abla M. , Mak Kam‐Hung , Peters Arnold T.
Published: July 2010

The synthesis of benzo [k, l] thioxanthene‐3,4‐dicarbo‐xylic acid‐7,7‐dioxide is described. Condensation of this heterocycle with amines, or oxidation of the corresponding imides of benzo [k, l] thioxanthene‐3,4‐dicarboxylic acid, affords a new range of dyes which colour synthetic‐polymer fibres, especially polyester, in yellow shades of excellent fastness to light and sublimation.
The Colour Index: The Past, Present and Future of Colorant Classification
Authors: Burdett B. C.
Published: July 2010

The evolution of the present Colour Index is discussed with reference to nineteenth and early twentieth century English, German and French classifications, as well as to previous editions of the Index. Details of the first, second and third editions are described and comments made on future developments.

Based on lectures given at meetings of the Bradford Student Section, the West Riding Region jointly with the Leeds Student Section, the Manchester Student Section, and the Midlands Region of the Society of Dyers and Colourists.
The Package Dyeing of Wool Yarn — Process Appraisal and Product Assessment
Authors: Graham J F , Holt R R D , Mason J S , Park J.
Published: July 2010

Five basic types of commercially produced yarns designed for machine knitting, weaving or hand knitting have been bulk‐dyed in package form to demonstrate the technical possibility of producing commercially acceptable products. Various factors were examined including yarn type, package type, package presentation, type of dyeing machine and method of drying. The dyed yarns were evaluated by producing fabrics under commercial conditions. Finally, the cost effectiveness and productivity of the various systems were assessed.

The principal results from this project have indicated that certain methods of preparing packages favour level dyeing and that these are the most economical due to advantageous payloads. It has been established that certain of the operations usually associated with package‐dyeing processes can be omitted with a significant reduction in cost.

Package‐dyed yarns in a variety of qualities have produced commercially acceptable fabrics. In some instances, to imitate fabrics already available by alternative processing routes, a change in finishing routine may be necessary.
Fastness Testing — A Retailer's Viewpoint
Authors: Levy I.
Published: July 2010

Isidore Levy served in the Royal Navy during the 1939‐45 war, after which he obtained a first class honours degree in chemistry and then a PhD. He joined ICI as a research and plant chemist, later moving to Marks & Spencer as a technical and scientific adviser and finally to the Littlewoods Organisation as an executive director. He is responsible for standards and quality of all merchandise sold through its mail order and chain store outlets and for fabric purchasing. Dr Levy is currently chairman of the Clothing Standards Committee and a member of the Textile Divisional Council and the Consumer Standards Advisory Committee of BSI.
Liquid Brands of Azoic Coupling Components and Azoic Diazo Components
Authors: Frey Peter , Hertel Hasso
Published: July 2010

Liquid brands of azoic coupling components are concentrated solutions of the monoalkaline salts of aromatic oxycarboxylic acid arylamides in alcohols. Solvents that are particularly suitable are ethylene glycol and diethylene glycol.

There are two different types of liquid brands of azoic diazo components: solutions and dispersions. Solutions consist of the Fast Base (an arylamine), the solvent and a surfactant. This form is especially suitable for low‐melting‐point amines. For those with a higher melting point the dispersion form is more suitable, with ethylene oxide adducts being used as dispersing agents, which also act as surfactants during dyeing.

The particular value of these liquid grades is that, besides making metering easier, they considerably reduce the time taken for the preparation of the impregnation liquors and particularly for diazotisation.
The Influence of Demand on the Emergence of the Dye Industry. The Roles of Chemists and Colourists
Authors: Homburg Ernst
Published: July 2010

Editor's note: This article, which presents a novel and controversial interpretation of the early development of the synthetic dye industry, first appeared as a report issued by the University of Nijmegen. For those interested in delving further into the subject, full bibliographical details are available from the author.
The Production of Easily Dyed Wool ‐ An Evaluation of Saline Ammonia Scouring
Authors: Al‐Hariri D K , Rattee I D
Published: July 2010

Treatment of wool with dilute ammonia solutions containing salt for short times at low temperatures modifies the wool to make it readily dyeable at 50–70°C. A saline ammonia scouring procedure to produce an easily dyed wool has been developed and has been evaluated both as a scouring procedure with particular preservation of wool quality and as a means of producing wool that can be dyed at 50–70°C. A short‐time dyeing cycle for Lanasol (CGY) dyes is considered in detail.
The Benzoylation of Wool and its Effect on Dye Affinity and Shrink Resistance
Authors: Lewis D M , Pailthorpe M T
Published: July 2010

Wool was treated with benzoic anhydride in a variety of solvents under different treatment conditions. Samples produced in the swelling solvent, N, N–dimethyl formamide, gave a machine–washable finish and outstanding dyeability, when using disperse dyes. The non–applicability of benzoic anhydride from aqueous solutions is a major problem in transferring these interesting results from a laboratory curiosity to practical mill conditions.
Evaluation of Stabilisers for Peroxide Bleaching
Authors: Hickman W S , Andrianjafy H.
Published: July 2010

A composite experimental design has been used to investigate the effect of stabiliser concentration, alkali concentration and treatment time on the reflectance (whiteness) and fluidity of hydrogen peroxide bleached cotton fabric. Four stabilisers were investigated under short and long dwell steaming conditions. The results show that this experimental method is well suited to the comparison of stabilisers for peroxide bleaching. The work shows that the conditions required to provide optimum whiteness with low chemical damage vary considerably from stabiliser to stabiliser and from system to system.
Role of Diffusion in Carrier Dyeing of Synthetic‐polymer Fibres—An Alternative Approach*
Authors: Kulkarni M G , Mashelkar R A
Published: July 2010

A method of correlating dye diffusivity with carrier concentration is presented, which also supports the free‐volume theory of carrier dyeing.
Crystal Data for C.I. Pigment Yellow 6
Authors: Whitaker A
Published: July 2010

The single‐crystal data and X‐ray powder pattern are reported for CI. Pigment Ye/low 6 (α‐[1‐hydroxy‐ethylidene] acetanilide‐α‐azo‐ [4′‐chloro‐2′‐nitrobenzene]). The powder pattern has been indexed from the cell dimensions given by the single‐crystal measurements. The problems of multiple indexing have been reduced by comparison with observed structure factors.
The Structure and Properties of Disperse Dyes in Polyester Coloration
Authors: Dawson J F
Published: July 2010

John Dawson was educated at Prince Henry's Grammar School, Otley, and the University of Leeds. He graduated from the Department of Colour Chemistry and Dyeing in 1961 before taking up an appointment as a research chemist with the then Yorkshire Dyeware & Chemical Co. Ltd, working primarily on the synthesis of new disperse and cationic dyes. He was appointed dye research manager in 1969 and elected to the board in 1976. He is now technical director of Yorkshire Chemicals plc, and also a member of the Society's Publications Committee.

Presented to the Society's Leicester Student Section on the 29 October 1980, to a joint meeting of the Society's West Riding Region and Leeds Student Section on 25 February 1982 and to the Society's Scottish Region on 2 March 1982.
An Introduction to the Burning Behaviour of Cellulosic Fibres
Authors: Horrocks A R
Published: July 2010

The actions of heat and flame on cellulosic fibres are compared with the physical and chemical behaviour of other fibres. The combustion mechanism is discussed in terms of concerted pyrolysis and oxidative stages, which can be represented as an energy feedback system. The action of different flame retardants are seen to interfere with the system and thereby inhibit burning. The condensed‐phase synergistic mechanism of phosphorus‐nitrogen‐containing retardants used for cotton and viscose rayon are discussed in terms of char enhancement whereas halogen‐based retardants operate in the vapour phase. The latter synergistically function in the presence of antimony (III) oxide and, although lacking extreme durability, offer the advantage of conferring flame retardance to adjacent fibrous and non‐fibrous materials. The effect of retardants on smoke and combustion product toxicity is also considered.
Phenolic Yellowing of Textiles during Storage. Part 1 ‐ Occurrence, Characterisation and Causes
Authors: Litherland A , Young T C
Published: July 2010

A commonly occurring type of yellowing is described that typically takes the form of bright yellow patches or bands on the folded edges of nylon garments stored for long periods in cardboard boxes; it can also occur on other substrates and in other modes of storage not associated with cardboard. It can be distinguished from other types of yellowing by chemical and physical tests and is shown to be caused by the interaction of atmospheric nitrogen oxides with certain phenolic substances present in, for example, storage materials. The resulting compounds, which are almost certainly nitrated phenols, are colourless in acid media but yellow in alkaline; they can sublime in the acid form and migrate at room temperature through protective plastic films, to be fixed in the yellow, alkaline form on nylon fabric., or on other substrates contaminated by alkaline residues. In unbleached cardboard the phenolic precursors appear to be decomposition products of lignin. In the absence of cardboard the yellowing is attributed to other substituted phenols such as antioxidants that may have been added deliberately, or may be present as residual traces in, for example, dyed fabrics. The most likely source of nitrogen oxides is exhaust fumes from motor vehicles. Methods of preventing this type of yellowing are outlined.
Some Thoughts on Textile Plant Development and Process Technology for the Future
Authors: Richardson G A
Published: July 2010

Presented at a joint meeting of the Society's Coloration Machinery Group and Midlands Region on 16 February 1983.
Quinone–Quinoneimine Tautomerism of Some Aminonaphthoquinonoid Dyes
Authors: Takagi Koichi , Matsuoka Masaru , Obayashi Hiroharu , Kitao Teijiro
Published: July 2010

Quinone–quinoneimine tautomerism of 7, 10–dihydroxy–2, 3, 4–trihydrobenzo f quinoxalin–6–one derivatives has been investigated by means of their n. m. r. and visible absorption spectra. The quinonoid ring protons gave signals in the range 5. 6–6. 1 p. p. m., while the benzenoid ring protons showed signals in the range 6. 9–7. 0 p. p. m. These differences in chemical shift were valuable in identifying the structure of the tautomer. Tautomerism was found to be largely influenced by the nature of the substituents and the polarity of the solvent, and the equilibrium shift to the quinoneimine form in polar solvents. The quinone form absorbed visible light at much longer wavelengths (by about 100 nm) than does the quinoneimine form. The isosbestic point of the tautomerism was observed at about 510 nm. The calculated absorption maximum of each tautomer obtained using the PPP MO method was correlated with the observed values to predict the principal tautomer in solution.
Improving the Dye Coverage of Immature Cotton Fibres by Treatment with Chitosan
Authors: Rippon John A
Published: July 2010

A study has been made of the sorption by cotton of chitosan (a partially deacetylated poly(N‐acetyl‐D‐glucosamine)) which had been applied to fabric by pad and exhaust methods. Chitosan pretreatment increases the exhaustion of direct dyes and is also very effective in eliminating differences in colour between dyed immature and mature cotton fibres. Some reduction in dye fastness results from the chitosan pretreatment when the dyeings are aftertreated with a conventional cationic fixing agent. However, much higher levels of fastness are obtained by aftertreatment with fibre‐reactive quaternary ammonium compounds; in general, these compounds produce dyeings of similar fastness properties on both untreated and chitosan‐treated cotton.
Dyeing Behaviour of Cotton after Pretreatment with Reactive Quaternary Compounds
Authors: Evans G E , Shore J , Stead C V
Published: July 2010

Previous attempts to modify the dyeability of cellulosic fibres for anionic dyes by pretreatment with reactive quaternary agents are discussed critically. Agents of the epoxypropyl type are compared with those of the chlorotriazine type and experimental investigation of their mode of action is reported, with particular reference to the preparation and evaluation of two classes of chlorotriazine‐type quaternary agents. Comments are made on the possible mechanism of dyeing of cotton modified by pretreatment in this way. It is concluded that the ideal method of quaternising pretreatment for enhancing the dyeability of cellulose has not yet emerged.
Properties of Monoazo Disperse Dyes Derived from 3‐amino‐5‐nitro(2,1) benzisothiazole
Authors: Kraska J , Sokolowska‐Gajda J
Published: July 2010

Some disperse dyes based on 3‐amino‐5‐nitro(2, 1) enz‐isothiazole have been synthesised by coupling with derivatives of N‐phenyl‐β‐alanine or N‐(2‐cyano‐ethyljaniline. Spectral properties in the infra‐red and visible range of the dyes obtained were investigated. The visible spectra suggest the possibility of aggregation when the secondary amines were used as a coupling component. This probably has some influence on the intensity of the dyeings obtained. The dyes were found to have good fastness to light and dry‐heat treatment and very interesting colouristic properties.
The Use of Statistical Methods in a Study of the Effect of Contact Heat on Fabric Handle
Authors: Souren I , Finnimore E
Published: July 2010

A study of the effect of contact heat on the handle of wool fabrics is used as an example to discuss the designing of an experiment with four process variables and the evaluation of the results. Successive refinement of the regression model shows which handle parameters are most affected, which process variables have the greatest influence and to what extent the variables interact.
Water for the Dyehouse: Supply, Consumption, Recovery and Disposal
Authors: Park J , Shore J
Published: July 2010

Factors which account for the almost universal choice of water as a medium for textile dyeing processes are outlined. Many of the dominant trends in the development of improved equipment and processes during the last decade have been associated with the control and treatment of this essential resource. Typical examples include the strong links between water conservation and most of the effective ways of saving energy, improvements in effluent treatment plants to minimise the impact of water‐borne contaminants on the environment, exploitation of the possibilities for reuse of process water or treated effluent in further processing, as well as the direct objective of holding in check the rising contribution of water supply and effluent treatment to limit overall costs. This broad expanse of water, pure and impure, is surveyed from the viewpoint of the textile dye user, since, by virtue of the physical and chemical properties of textile dyes, he is also invariably a continual user of water.
The Influence of Temperature on the Thermodynamics of Acid Dye Adsorption on Wool Fibres
Authors: Iyer S R Sivaraja , Srinivasan D.
Published: July 2010

Thermodynamic data which have been obtained from the measured equilibrium isotherms for the adsorption of the sodium salts of 1–amino–4–alkylaminoanthraquinone–2–sulphonic acid on wool fibres at different temperatures in the range 40–80°C indicate that hydrophobic interactions are present in the dye–fibre adsorption process.
Dyeing Kinetics of an Acid Dye in a Nylon Film
Authors: Sada E , Kumazawa H , Ando T
Published: July 2010

The dyeing kinetics of an acid dye (C. I. Acid Blue 182) in a nylon 6 substrate was investigated using partition–cell and film–roil methods. The concentration dependence of the diffusion coefficient of acid dye in the nylon film was derived from both methods and compared with a prediction based on diffusion together with adsorption equilibrium established instantaneously between mobile and immobilised dye molecules in pores. These two sets of experimental results were found to be incompatible with each other. It was deduced that two kinds of region exist in the nylon, one being a region available for rapid penetration and the other, connected to it and formed by slow relaxation, a region of poor penetration.
Disperse Dyes Incorporating N–Substituted Carbamate Groups for Transfer Printing of Natural Fibres
Authors: Sarwar M , Datyner A
Published: July 2010

Disperse dyes of both azo and anthraquinone types containing N–substituted carbamate groups as ‘masked’ isocyanate reactive groups have been synthesised. These dyes have been found to behave like reactive dyes containing free isocyanate groups, when employed for transfer printing of natural fibres. The N–substituted carbamate group in these dyes readily regenerates the isocyanate group during transfer printing, which in turn reacts with amino groups in wool or hydroxy! groups in cellulose. These dyes have, therefore, shown high transferability and fixation on natural fibres.
Synthesis and Infra–red Spectral Studies on Some New Phthalein Dyes –Unsymmetrically Substituted Phthalides
Authors: Makhloga P S , Chamoli R P
Published: July 2010

2–(m–Nitrobenzoyl) benzoic acid, a γ–keto acid, has been condensed with various phenols to synthesise some novel analogues of phthalein dyes. The products so obtained are unsymmetrically substituted phthalides, ir which the central triphenylmethane carbon is attached tc two different rings. Structures of these new dyes were established by elemental analysis, chemical reactions anc infra–red studies. Their absorption maxima have been determined in ethanol (neutral and alkaline media) and are found to be shifted like those of true phthaleins.
The Instabilisation of Dye‐Fibre Bonds by Peroxide Treatments
Authors: Rattee Ian D , Gomes Jaime I N Rocha
Published: July 2010

The results are presented of an investigation into the instability induced in dye‐fibre bonds by peroxide treatments. The nature of the reactions involved are discussed.
Reconstitution and Reuse of Dyebaths in Carpet Dyeing
Authors: Tincher W C , Cook F L , Carr W W , Olson L H , Bergenthal J.
Published: July 2010

Techniques for analysis, reconstitution and reuse of spent dyebaths have been extended to production winch dyeing of nylon 6 and nylon 6. 6 carpets. Results of in–plant dyeing show a 35% reduction in energy, a 40% reduction in water and a 56% reduction in auxiliary requirements by dyeing in reconstituted baths. Substantial decrease in discharge of pollutants is also achieved. Results suggest that dyeing in reconstituted baths is attractive economically, with a $28 per cycle reduction in dyeing costs and a 1. 5 year pay–back period on capital investment.
Dyeing Properties of a Polyamide–Epichlorohydrin Resin
Authors: de Fries W. , Altenhofen U. , Zahn H.
Published: July 2010

The dyeing behaviour of cured films prepared from a polyamide–epichlorohydrin resin (Hercosett) was examined in orderto obtain a better understanding of the dyeing beha viour of Hercosett–treated wool. The polymer films swell by 500–1000%. The swelling decreases with increasing dye content in the polymer and with increasing temperature. The diffusion of acid dyes into the polymer is extremely fast (D =10‐7 cm2/s), and can be accelerated by the addition of salt. The sorption of the dye is described in terms of a Langmuir isotherm, indicating that an ion–exchange mechanism is operative. The concentration of cationic groups in the polymer is very high (2. 4mo//kg) and does not depend on the curing conditions. The addition of salt reduces the exhaustion of the dyebath. Reactive dyes were found to be bound covalently to the resin. During industrial resin treatment it has been shown that the molecular weight distribution of the Hercosett in the resin bath changes markedly, molecular weight increasing with running time and the spread of values being much narrower. This may explain the variation in the dyeing behaviour of wool fibres that have been treated at different times in the same resin bath.
A Water Authority's Service to Industry
Authors: Bailey David A
Published: July 2010

Presented to a joint meeting of the Society's West Riding Region and Leeds Student Section, and the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists, on 7 February 1985.
Landmarks in the Technology of Coloration and Implications for the Future
Authors: Rattee I D
Published: July 2010

Society Centenary Lecture presented at the 13th Congress of the International Federation of Associations of Textile Chemists and Colourists in London on 21 September 1984.
Low‐energy Preparation of Cotton and Cotton Blends
Authors: Burdett B C , Roberts J G
Published: July 2010

Shirley Institute Didsbury Manchester M20 8RX

Presented at the 13th Congress of the International Federation of Associations of Textile Chemists and Colourists in London on 21 September 1984.

Surveys of current practice show that energy requirements for fabric preparation range between Wand 30 GJ for each tonne of fabric processed. The procedure recommended in this paper consumes as little as 3.4 GJ/tonne. The process depends upon steam purging loom‐state fabric prior to the fabric entering the preparation liquor, and combining the three separate stages of desizing, scouring and bleaching into a single‐stage process. Acceptable preparation of cotton fabrics can be obtained by batching such impregnated fabric at room temperature, followed by washing‐off and drying.
Transport of Acid Dye in Nylon Film
Authors: Sada E , Kumazawa H , Ando T
Published: July 2010

The results of both steady‐state permeation and non‐steady‐state dyeing experiments over a wide range of dye concentrations for a system consisting of an acid dye (C.I. Acid Blue 182) and a nylon 6 film were analysed on the basis of surface diffusion with simultaneous multimodal adsorption. The concentration dependence of the diffusion coefficient of the dye in the nylon film can be explained by surface diffusion incorporating one Nernst‐type and two Langmuir‐type adsorption mechanisms except when high concentrations of dye are applied. The concentration dependence of the diffusion coefficient taken from the permeation experiments in the high concentration region is predicted by a surface diffusion mechanism in which two true adsorption equilibria of the Langmuir type are established throughout the nylon, whereas only a pseudo‐equilibrium adsorption of the Nernst type is achieved.
Protection of Wool Products from Insect Damage by Blending Untreated and Insectproofed Wool
Authors: Jones F William
Published: July 2010

Berber‐style products, containing significant amounts of undyed wool, have been found to be protected from insect attack when the untreated wool is blended with wool treated with sufficient insectproofing agent to give 1. 5 times the recommended application level, based on the total wool content. Best protection is obtained if the untreated and treated wool fibres are intimately blended. Adequate protection, in some instances, can be obtained by treating individual yarns. In this case the spatial distribution of the treated wool and untreated wool in the final product is important.
Intramolecular Quenching of the Photofading of Some Dyes
Authors: Oda Hironori , Kitao Teijiro
Published: July 2010

Some dyes containing a nickel sulphonate intramolecular singlet‐oxygen quenching group have been synthesised and the influence of such a substituent on the photofading of the dyes examined. Dyes containing this quenching group showed improved resistance to photofading in the adsorbed state in visible light.
Wide‐ranging Polynomial Approximations to Wilson's and Hill's Equations
Authors: Shibusawa Takao
Published: July 2010

A close approximation to Wilson's equation has been obtained that is applicable for exhaustion levels between 30 and 99. 9% at an accuracy of up to four significant figures, A similar approximation to Hill's equation was also obtained, which is shown to be highly accurate. The approximation to Wilson's equation has been used to calculate the diffusion coefficient of CI. Disperse Violet 1 in alkali‐corroded polyester fibres. The effects of removing the surface fibre layer by alkali hydrolysis on the ph ysicai characteristics of a polyester fibre and on the diffusion coefficient of the disperse dye in the fibre are discussed.
Colour Measurement in the Hungarian Textile Industry — Research and Application
Authors: Hirschler R , Goreczky L , Csimcsa‐Füredi M , Pataki P
Published: July 2010

Presented at the 13th Congress of the International Federation of Associations of Textile Chemists and Colourists in London on 21 September 1984.

The Colour Measurement and Recipe Formulation Centre was opened some years ago to help dyehouses in the Hungarian textile industry. The work of the Centre and research conducted at various other institutions are discussed in this article. The main topics of research include linear approximations in colour calculations, statistical treatment of colour measurement data, the repeatability of textile dyeing, comparison of different methods for expressing the dyeing strength of dyestuffs, application of instrumental measurement in fastness evaluation, comparison of colour‐difference formulae in establishing tolerances and in colour sorting, and the effect of mercerisation on the colour of dyed cotton.
Determination of the Mothproofing Agents Eulan WA New, Eulan U33 and Mitin FF High Cone on Wool and Wool Blends Using U.v. Spectrophotometry
Authors: George Margaret M
Published: July 2010

A method has been developed for the identification and determination of Eulan WA New (or Eulan U33) and Mitin FF High Cone, used as mothproofing agents on wool and wool blends. The mothproofing agent used is separated by solvent extraction from a sodium hydroxide solution of the wool and determined by u.v. spectrophotometry. The possibility of interfering impurities should not be overlooked. Such interferences have rarely been encountered in the author's laboratory, but can be detected by comparison of curve shapes.
The Photostability of Fluorescent Whitening Agents on Wool
Authors: Davidson R Stephen , King Doreen , Lewis David M , Jones Stuart K R
Published: July 2010

The stabilities, both on wool and in solution, of several commercial fluorescent whitening agents (FWAs) were examined. Stability in solution was found to vary considerably. However, the photoye/lowing rates of wool whitened with these compounds were found to be similar, suggesting that the photodegradation pathway in solution is probably different to that on wool. The stabilities of two pyrazolines were also examined, and in accordance with previous results it was found that the stabilities of these compounds in solution did not relate to the photoye/lowing rates of wool whitened with them. The photoye/lowing of whitened wool was also followed by diffuse reflectance spectroscopy. The sample was illuminated by monochromatic light and the presence of FWAs on the fabric detected by an increase in transmission. This apparent increase is due to the fluorescence contributing to the reflected light. Using such a method the presence of an FWA can be easily verified and its photodegradation followed.
Dye‐Fibre Bond Stabilities of Some Reactive Dyes on Silk
Authors: Meyer Ulrich , Wang Jian‐ziong , Xia Yushu , Yang Jin‐zong , Zollinger Heinrich
Published: July 2010

57th Communication on Investigations in Textile Chemistry, for 56th Communication see ref. J.

Silk was dyed with twelve reactive dyes containing various reactive groups. The dyeings were thoroughly extracted so that all non‐covalently bonded dye was removed. The extracted dyeings were treated with buffer solutions in the pH range 1.89 to 10.65 at 70°C for 24 h. The exhaustion, fixation ratio and extent of reaction of the dyeings and the rate of hydrolysis of all dyed samples in six buffers were measured. The dye‐fibre bond was found to be sufficiently resistant to hydrolysis for ail dyeings. The fixation ratio and wet fastness were particularly good for dyeings with α‐bromoacrylamide groups and with difluorochloropyrimidine groups.
Economic Aspects of the Dyeing of Cotton Knitgoods with Reactive Dyes in Winches and Jet Machines
Authors: Park James , Shore John
Published: July 2010

The choice between alternative dye recipes to match the same colour using reactive dyes on cotton does not reduce simply to comparing the costs of the individual dyes and their proportions in the recipes. Often the conditions of application of the recipes are significantly different and it is not sufficiently accurate to represent process cost by a constant factor independent of applied depth or dyeing‐cycle profile. For example, depending on the dyeing cycle and machine selected, a pale depth costing perhaps 5 pl kg for the dyes required would demand a further 10–25 p/kg in process costs, even if no shading problems arose. The processing ‘surcharge’ on a 50 p/kg full‐depth recipe would amount to 15–40 p/kg dyed faultlessly.

The cost‐effectiveness of the process is adversely affected if shading and reprocessing become necessary. Shading corrections to a pastel dyeing may be almost negligible in terms of dye cost but an extra 10–15% in processing cost is registered each time. A substantial addition to a full‐depth dyeing from a fresh bath is a severe penalty, however, amounting to a major proportion of the cost of the original dyeing. The contribution of the fixed‐cost component to the total costs of dyeing can become a heavy burden if the productive capacity is not being effectively used. It makes no economic sense to replace an unsophisticated but still viable winch by a costly jet machine unless the available workload and technological control systems can justify this decision by ensuring that the new machine is kept full and effectively occupied throughout its productive life. The relationships between these factors are illustrated by means of typical examples, based as far as possible on realistic recipe costs and process details.