bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Detecting Colored Fiber Contaminants in Wool Top Using Balanced Illumination
Authors: Chudleigh P.W. , Foulds R.A. , Wong P.
Published: March 2008

Balanced illumination techniques have been used for many years to improve the detection efficiency for colored fiber contaminants in a white fiber mass, e.g., white wool top. The individual fibers in a mass of white wool are essentially transparent, and their images can be partially suppressed by a suitable choice of illumination to increase the contrast of the colored fibers. This paper uses geometrical optics to explain the partial suppression of images formed by transparent fibers under balanced illumination. The paper also shows that these images can be completely suppressed in the ideal situation, where transparent fibers with circular cross section are completely surrounded by a uniformly diffuse source of illumination. The performance of a balanced illumination system can be optimized by choosing illumination conditions that conform more closely to this ideal situation.
A New Approach to Reduce Sugar Content of Cotton Fibers and Its Consequence for Fiber Stickiness
Authors: Heuer Bruria , Plaut Z.
Published: March 2008

Serious production and quality problems occur from time to time in cotton processing as a result of fiber stickiness, which is related to an increase in the level of monosaccharides on cotton fibers, mainly fructose and glucose. Microbiological activity may alter this sugar level, both qualitatively and quantitatively, since microorganisms consume sugars. The laboratory and semi-commercial experiments reported here produced optimal conditions for sugar decomposition to enable normal, undisturbed spinning of cotton fiber. Enhanced microbial activity, based on a supply of ammonium compounds at certain moisture contents and the amount of sugar on the fibers, led to a remarkable reduction in cotton stickiness without affecting quality.
Comparison of Yarn Costs Between Standard and Washed Cottons
Authors: Bargeron J.D. , Shaw Dale L.
Published: March 2008

Washing cotton before it is processed into yarn may eliminate or attenuate the biologically active byssinotic agent, reduce dust levels in mills, and exempt mills from the OSHA cotton dust standard. The tandem carding and reduced spinning speed specified to maintain yarn quality in processing washed cotton results in an 8.9% increase in the cost of yarn from washed as compared to unwashed standard cotton. Washing procedures and finishes that would allow the processing of washed cotton at normal spindle speed would increase yarn cost by 1.4%.
Hydrophilic Nylon for Improved Apparel Comfort
Authors: Lofquist R.A. , Saunders P.R. , Tam T.Y. , Twilley I.C.
Published: March 2008

The perceived comfort of cotton fabric has been attributed, at least in part, to its high moisture regain relative to synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester. A cotton-like moisture absorption level can be achieved by incorporating a telechelic water soluble segment, such as an amine-terminated polyethylene oxide (PEOD), into the nylon backbone, or grafting onto the nylon chain a low molecular weight poly(dimethylacrylamide) (PDMAA).
Comparison of Properties of Cotton Yarns Produced by the DREF-3, Ring, and Open-End Spinning Methods
Authors: Louis Gain L. , Salaun Harold L. , Kimmel Linda B.
Published: March 2008

The DREF-3 spinning method produces a yarn by wrapping a fibrous core with a fibrous sheath at production speeds up to 200 meters per minute. The comparative merits of this high-production spinning method to spin all-cotton yarns are inves tigated and reported. Two sets of cotton differing mainly in fiber length, strength, and Micronaire reading are used in this experiment. Yarns produced by the DREF- 3 machine are compared with yams spun by conventional ring and open-end methods. The influence of fiber properties on yarns spun by the three methods are discussed in terms of yarn strength, elongation, uniformity, and appearance. The effect of exhaust air pressure on yarns spun by the DREF-3 is also discussed.
Dyeing Behavior of Poly(acrylonitrile-CO-Haloalkyl Acrylate/Methacrylate) Fibers
Authors: Bajaj P. , Padmanaban M.
Published: March 2008

The dyeing behavior of poly(acrylonitrile-CO-haloalkyl acrylate/methacrylate) fibers was studied using three basic dyes and two disperse dyes. The diffusion coefficient values for the dyes were calculated from Hill's equation and related to the difference in molecular size of the dye molecules. The equilibrium dye uptake values were greater for copolymeric fibers and increased further with increased comonomer concentration. The increase in dye uptake was attributed to the loose packing of polymeric chains in copolymers and hence more free volume, a low glass transition temperature, free segmental mobility, and a greater number of accessible dye sites. The Arrhenius relation was used to relate the change in the apparent diffusion coefficient with absolute temperature, and the activation energy of dyeing was low for copolymers. Light fastness and wash fastness of the dyed fibers are also reported.
A Microprocessor-Based System for Obtaining Variance-Length Curves of Jute Yarns
Authors: Jain A.K. , Das D.K. , Ray P.K.
Published: March 2008

A microprocessor-based system for deriving variance-length curves in conjunction with Uster evenness tester has been described with particular reference to jute yams. Reliable variance-length curves can be obtained easily, and the higher CVs often encountered in jute yarns do not pose any problem. Thick and thin portions of the yarns can also be counted without additional circuitry.
A New and Effective Method for Removing DMDHEU Crosslinks from Cotton 1
Authors: Abhyankar Prashant N. , Beck Keith R. , Ladisch Christine M. , Rowland Stanley P.
Published: March 2008

A new and relatively simple method for removing zinc nitrate-cured DMDHEU crosslinks from cotton cellulose is reported. The method entails boiling the finished fabric in 23% NaOH for 10 minutes. Removal of the finish was verified by nitrogen and formaldehyde analyses and by wrinkle recovery measurements. Little change in viscometric degree of polymerization (dpv), copper number, carboxyl content, breaking strength, and abrasion resistance of an untreated control fabric subjected to alkaline hydrolysis indicated that the stripping method was nondegradative.

Losses in breaking strength and flex abrasion resistance produced in the cotton fabric upon treatment with DMDHEU were almost completely restored by resin stripping. Relatively small increases in reducing groups and carboxyl content and a dp loss of only about 13% (500 out of 3700) indicated that treatment of cotton with the DMDHEU/zinc nitrate system produced little chemical damage in the cellulose.
Elastic Properties of Twill and Modified Twill Warp Knitted Elastic Fabrics
Authors: Cooke W.D. , Assimakopoulos G.S.
Published: March 2008

Although elastic warp knitted fabrics occupy an important market sector, very few published papers have reported on the factors that determine their elastic properties. Part I of this series deals with the methods of manufacture and finishing conditions of a range of twill and modified twill fabrics, establishing a test methodology and presenting the raw test data.
Measurement of Electric Charge on Airborne Dusts in Textile Industry Workplaces
Authors: Vincent J.H. , Johnston A.M. , Jones A.D. , McLachlan C.Q.
Published: March 2008

Airborne dusts become electrified during mechanical dispersal, and this may have a significant influence on their subsequent behavior. This paper presents an extensive series of measurements on the states of charge of airborne dusts at a range of jute, flax, cotton, glass, and asbestos textile industry workplaces. Distributions and magnitudes of charge carried by fine, inhalable particles of defined size were examined. The charges on clouds of dust particles were invariably distributed symmetrically between positive and negative. For each factory process producing dust consisting of predominantly isometric ( i.e., nonfibrous) particles, the median charge on individual particles usually increased somewhat faster than linearly with particle diameter. The highest levels of charging appeared to be associated with the most energetic dust-making processes. From the industrial hygiene point of view, the levels of charge on the isometric inhalable dust particles associated with the jute, cotton, and glass textile factories were not thought high enough to influence dust uptake in the lungs of exposed workers. On the other hand, for the fibrous dusts associated with the asbestos factories, effective charging levels were high enough that the possibility of an effect on lung uptake caused by electrostatic image forces should not be neglected.
Dimensional Deformation of Filaments—An SEM Assessment
Authors: Rao M.V.S. , Chauhan R.S. , Dweltz N.E.
Published: March 2008

A qualitative method is described to assess the lateral deformation of polyester filaments by making a simple overhand knot and observing the changes in dimensions and shape produced at the wrapping portion of the knot. The resistance to deformation is well correlated with density, residual shrinkage, crease recovery angle, and the lateral order in the filaments.
Heat Exchange and Thermal Insulation Compared in Woolen and Nylon Garments During Wear Trials
Authors: Holmér Ingvar
Published: March 2008

Heat exchange and thermal insulation were determined in four subjects during 120 minutes exposure (60 minutes exercise and 60 minutes rest) at +8°C in a climatic chamber. Two types of garment assemblies were investigated, each comprising a jacket, trousers, socks, mittens, and a hat of identical construction made of wool and nylon. Mean skin and rectal temperatures were significantly higher at rest in wet woolen garments compared to wet nylon garments. No significant difference was obtained in heat exchange and thermal insulation of garments when wool was compared to nylon during walking, running, and resting in wet and dry clothing, respectively. Overall thermal insulation ( Rc) was significantly lower by 15% in wet clothing compared to dry clothing at rest. Rc was significantly reduced by 30-40% during walking and by 50-60% during running in comparison with resting in dry clothing. Reduction was partly explained by reduced insulation of surface air layer, but predominantly by ventilation of clothing due to the pumping effect.
Distribution of Residual Pesticide Within Textile Structures as Determined by Electron Microscopy
Authors: Solbrig C.M. , Obendorf S.K.
Published: March 2008

An electron microscopical technique was developed to determine the location and distribution of the organophosphorus pesticide, malathion, on and within yams and fibers. X-ray microanalysis and backscattered electron imaging of contaminated fiber cross sections was accomplished by using OsO4 as a tag for the pesticide. On contaminated 50% cotton/50% polyester fabric with and without a durable press finish, malathion was observed on the surface of the cotton and polyester fibers and in the lumen of the cotton fibers, but no malathion was found inside the polyester fibers. A statistical comparison of differences in the distribution of malathion was made for durable press finished and unfinished cotton/polyester fabrics and between various regions on fiber cross sections for each fabric. X-ray mapping was also used to define the location of malathion on yams and in fiber cross sections.
Role of Moisture in the Performance of Sized Yarn
Authors: Hari P.K. , Tewary A.
Published: March 2008

Moisture considerably improves the performance of cotton yarn sized with a starch-based sizing recipe. Higher moisture increases yarn elongation but reduces modulus, flexural rigidity, and elastic recovery. Increased hairiness of the sized yarn caused by loom action is minimum under higher moisture conditions. The moisture in the sized yarn affects yarn performance mainly because of the change in the size film and adhesion properties of the size.
Thiol Differences Along Keratin Fibers: Stress/Strain and Stress-Relaxation Behavior as a Function of Temperature and Extension
Authors: Robinson M.S. , Rigby B.J.
Published: March 2008

The stress-relaxation behavior, in water, of the root and tip ends of wool fibers with normal and abnormal thiol contents and of human hair has been studied. For both wool samples, differences in behavior are seen at all strains from 1-15% and over the temperature range 0-90°C. For human hair, the differences persist even after 170 hours of relaxation, when the process is close to completion. These changes in mechanical properties along keratin fibers are ascribed to differences in thiol content along the fibers. A thermal transition temperature occurs in all samples, and is directly related to the thiol content: the greater the thiol content the lower the transition temperature.
Permeability of Soil-Geotextile Systems
Authors: Wei K.Y. , Vigo T.L. , Goswami B.C. , Duckett K.E.
Published: March 2008

A specially designed laboratory-type permeameter was used to characterize liquid flow behavior through various combinations of soils and geotextile fabrics subject to different flow rates and hydrostatic pressures of water. Spunbonded geotextiles made from two different fiber types ( e.g., polyester and polypropylene) were selected for the study. Volume flow rates were varied up to 21 cm/second by adjusting hydrostatic pressure differences from 2.5 to 76.2 cm.

The results suggest single layer barriers of the geotextiles alone have small effects on flow rates of water, but sand-geotextile combinations exhibited strikingly different behavior. In prewashed soil-geotextile combinations, the permeability decreased non linearly with increasing depth of soil above the fabrics, independent of the supporting fabric. For soils that were not prewashed, however, fine particles in suspension settled at the soil-water interface to produce an almost impervious layer or cake structure. This caking was a function of time and became the controlling factor of flow throughout the composite.

High clogging in even thin fabrics was observed when sand was replaced by fine material such as Kaolite. The behavior was different than that of the fine material in unwashed sand. In addition, geotextile fabrics showed low resiliency to recovery from cyclic compression. The practical interpretation of this is that the porosity of the fabric may decrease significantly with time if incorporated into structures that are subject to compressive forces.
Heat and Water Transport Through Cotton and Polypropylene Underwear
Authors: Farnworth B. , Dolhan P.A.
Published: March 2008

Polypropylene is often hailed as a superior fiber for underwear for winter sports activities because of low water absorption and good wicking properties. Experiments were performed on a sweating hot plate to try to discern any difference in heat loss through polypropylene and cotton underwear. Differences were noted but were too small to have any discernible influence on the thermal well-being of the wearer.
A Model for Fabric Buckling in Shear
Authors: Ly Nhan G.
Published: March 2008

A mathematical model is presented for the buckling of fabric under combined shear and tensile forces. This model takes account of the anisotropic characteristics of the fabric in terms of the flexural rigidities in the warp and weft directions, its corresponding Poisson's ratios, the shear modulus, and the width to height ratio of the rectangular specimen. Numerical solutions show that the critical shear force at which buckling starts and the number of buckles increase with increasing pre-tension. Furthermore, as the height or width of the rectangular specimen decreases, the critical shear force increases. For most fabrics where the flexural rigidity in the warp direction is higher than that in the weft direction, the results suggest that during tailoring, it is beneficial to orient the fabric so that the tension is in the warp direction to reduce the possibility of shear buckling in the garment.
Analysis of the Humidity-Time Superposition for Wool Fibers
Authors: Wortmann F.-J. , De Jong S.
Published: March 2008

Data on the linear viscoelastic relaxation of wool fibers for a range of relative hu midities below the gas transition ( Tg) are systematized by a humidity-time superposition method. The differences in the relaxation behavior in water where the fiber is above its Tg are pointed out. The analysis relates to the properties of the water sensitive, viscoelastic component of the wool fiber and consists of superimposing the relaxation curves for different humidities onto the curve for the dry state by multiplicative scaling and shifting on the logarithmic scale of the reduced time variable λ, that corrects for the influence of ageing. The change of the scaling and shift factor with the absorption mechanism of the water is discussed.
Finishing Cotton-Wool Blends
Authors: Harper Robert J. , Mehta Parvez
Published: March 2008

This paper covers the application of crosslinking agents and polymers to cotton wool blends. In particular, the influence of a catalyst on performance levels attained was investigated. Likewise, the role of polymers in improving dimensional stability and wet wrinkle recovery was elucidated.
Effect of pH and the Role of N-Methylol Hydrolysis in Formaldehyde Release from Durable Press Fabric
Authors: Kamath Y.K. , Hornby S.B. , Bergeron D. , Weigmann H.-D.
Published: March 2008

A series of experiments are reported that demonstrate the effects of fabric pH on the release of formaldehyde from fabrics treated for durable press with formaldehyde- containing resins. Release, as measured by the AATCC sealed jar procedure, is a minimum in the neutral pH range; it increases as residual fabric acidity increases because of increased crosslink (C—O) hydrolysis, which produces N-methylol groups that hydrolyze in turn to form formaldehyde; release increases to even a greater extent as the fabric becomes increasingly alkaline because of the hydrolytic sensitivity of the C—N bond in pendant N-methylol groups at high pH. Similar pH effects are observed with methylated ("capped") resin. To determine the degree to which formaldehyde release results from N-methylol hydrolysis, a series of fabrics containing pendant N-methylol groups over a considerable range of concentrations were analyzed for N-methylol content before and after the AATCC measurement of formaldehyde release. In general, release is somewhat higher than expected from the decrease in N-methylol content. This suggests that other mechanisms, for example, release of free formaldehyde initially present in the fabric and hydrolysis of crosslinks to form additional pendant N-methylol, contribute to the formation and release of formaldehyde from these treated fabrics.
Frictional Effects in Glass Fabric
Authors: Ly Nhan G.
Published: March 2008

A series of cyclic bending experiments conducted to investigate the frictional effects in bending glass fabric are described. The results indicate that for a given maximum curvature of bending, the coercive couple caused by frictional effects does not change as the bending curvature increases. On the other hand, the hysteresis, which is the coercive couple at zero curvature, increases with increasing maximum curvature of bending. The frictional effects created by interyarn movement are not as important as those caused by interfiber movement.
An Extended Range Liquid Extrusion Method for Determining Pore Size Distributions
Authors: Miller Bernard , Tyomkin Ilya
Published: March 2008

A liquid extrusion method for determining pore volume distributions has been developed that is especially useful for, but not restricted to, characterizing fibrous materials. It involves gravimetric monitoring of liquid that drains from an initially saturated sample as incremental increases in pressure gradient are applied across it. Any liquid that wets the material can be used. Using techniques devised for applying an extended range of pressure gradients, it is possible to detect pore radii from 0.5 to 1,000 μm. Results for a variety of substrates show the sensitivity of the method. For example, bimodal distributions obtained for woven fabrics reflect the larger interyarn and smaller intrayarn pores. Advantages and limitations of the method and the meaning and usefulness of the data are discussed.
Microstructure of Poly(ethylene Terephthalate) Tire Yarn and Its Relation to Heat Generation in Rubber
Authors: Yabuki Kazuyuki , Iwasaki Mitsuo , Aoki Yoshihide
Published: March 2008

Polyester tire cords were prepared from poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) of dif ferent molecular weights. The relation between the microstructure and heat generation in rubber was investigated through the effect of degree of polymerization, which was one of the major factors controlling both the microstructure and the physical properties. The microstructure of PET tire cord was determined using wide angle x-ray diffraction, small angle x-ray scattering, density, and dynamic viscoelasticity. The heat generation and fatigue properties of PET tire cords in rubber were evaluated by means of the Goodyear tube fatigue test and the Goodrich disk fatigue test. The heat generation property of PET tire cord in rubber was highly related to the mobility of molecular chains in the amorphous regions.
Incidence of Fiber Reversal and Change in Fiber Configuration in Rotor Spinning
Authors: Chattopadhyay R. , Sarkar S.
Published: March 2008

One of the most important operations in rotor spinning is the transportation of separated fibers from the feed to the rotor chamber through the transport channel. Any disturbance in the smooth flow of fibers through the channel is detrimental to yarn quality and spinning stability. In this investigation, many fibers changed their directions during passage through the channel. Straight fibers present in the feed sliver changed configurations by either getting hooked or looped. Surprisingly, long fibers changed configurations less than to short fibers.
Foam Sizing of Cotton and Blend Yarns: Slashing Trials
Authors: Namboodri C.G.
Published: March 2008

The objective of foam sizing, like other textile foam processing, is to reduce wet pickups and conserve energy during the drying operation. In foam sizing, a concentrated size composition is mechanically foamed at room temperature and is applied to the warp yarns by the Reed-Chatwood applicator. The main feature of the applicator is a horizontal padder. The foam collapses at the nip of the padder, applying the size uniformly to the warp yarn at a lower wet pickup. The size add-on is controlled by the blow ratio and the solid present in the mix. Because of lower wet pickup, energy savings and increased production speeds are realized. At low wet pickup, less bridging of yarns and reduced yam hairiness are also anticipated benefits. For colored yarn warps, foam application at lower pickups results in less color bleeding and reduced staining of adjacent yams. This paper reviews critical factors in the development of foam sizes and results from production trials.
Effect of Short Fiber Content in Cotton on Plant Performance and Quality'
Authors: Backe Everett E.
Published: March 2008

A large scale plant trial was performed to determine the effect that 2.5% span length and micronaire mix laydown variability (while maintaining the same average, high, and low levels of short fiber content as measured by the Peyer AL-101 instrument) and the number of bales in the mix laydown have on processing performance and quality. Eight conditions, representing various combinations of these variables, were processed through the same equipment and deliveries in the plant. Frequency checks and quality measurements were made at each process, and the 100% carded cotton, 23/1, ring spun yams produced were fully characterized for all normal quality char acteristics. The results indicate that short fiber has a major effect on manufacturing and yam quality, the number of bales per laydown and fiber property variability have a significant effect on ends-down in spinning, and short fiber content has a much greater influence on yam quality than bales per laydown and fiber property variability.
Preliminary Investigation of the Length Measurement of Cotton Fibers with the Peyer Texlab System: Comparability and Repeatability'
Authors: Bargeron J.D.
Published: March 2008

The short fiber content of raw cotton is important to yarn manufacturers, but current measurement methods are slow and may not accurately characterize short fibers. The Peyer Fibroliner-AL101 system is a relatively easy and rapid method of determining the length-frequency distribution of cotton samples. A comparison between Suter- Webb and Peyer fiber length distributions by weight (barbe) indicates that barbe 25% length is approximately 0.10 inch shorter than Suter-Webb upper quartile length, and the mean length is approximately 0.05 inch shorter than the Suter-Webb mean length. The barbe percent fibers shorter than ½ inch averaged 1.70% greater than the Suter- Webb percent short fibers. The Peyer Fibroliner-Almeter test can be performed in approximately 15 minutes, while it takes about two hours to make the Suter- Webb test.
Market Values of Fiber Properties in Southeastern Textile Mills
Authors: Hembree Joel F. , Ethridge Don E. , Neeper Jarral T.
Published: March 2008

Effects of fiber properties (length, length uniformity, strength, micronaire, white, yellow, and trash content) on U.S. mill prices of cotton were estimated. USDA data on fiber properties and mill prices on cottons from four production regions in the U.S. were used in the statistical analysis. All fiber properties were found to significantly affect mill prices; the fiber properties having the greatest influence were fiber strength, length, and micronaire, followed by length uniformity, yellowness, whiteness, and trash content. These properties explained 18% of the total variation in mill prices between 1977/78 and 1983/84.
Instability Tests for Air-Jet Textured Yarns
Authors: Demir A. , Acar M. , Wray G.R.
Published: March 2008

The air-jet texturing process is briefly introduced and its advantages over other texturing processes are summarized. Characteristics of air-jet textured yarns are stated with special reference to the stability of the yarns. Test methods used in industry and research to determine the "stability" or "instability" of air-jet textured yarns are crit ically reviewed. These methods involve different basic principles and therefore inev itably give different results. There is no consensus on a standard method. Effects of various test parameters, such as specimen length, test duration, and the alternatives of using a single yarn, a hank, or a skein as a test specimen are investigated. An improved test method is suggested as a standard instability test, and various existing methods are compared with it. Results of all the methods show similar trends for varying values of air pressure. Other yarn characteristics such as linear density, breaking elongation, and tenacity are also determined, and their indications of yarn quality are compared with the indications of instability tests. Stability test results alone provide misleading information regarding air-jet textured yarn quality.
Photoprotection of Wool with a Sulfonated 2-(2'-Hydroxyaryl)-2H-Benzotriazole UV Absorber
Authors: Evans N.A. , Waters P.J. , Wilshire J.F.K.
Published: March 2008

A detailed study has been made of the photoprotective effect afforded to wool fabric against irradiation (by simulated sunlight or natural sunlight through glass) by the 2-(2'-hydroxyaryl)-2H-benzothazole ultraviolet absorber, sulfonated Tinuvin P. The degree of photoprotection depends on the amount of absorber applied to the wool and the pH at which it is applied. Wool dyed with representative acid dyes was also protected to a significant extent by the absorber against both phototendering and dye fading.
Physical Properties of Weft Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Zurek Witold , Cislo Romualda , Bialek Urszula , Dziewiecka Malgorzata
Published: March 2008

The geometrical dimensions of weft knitted fabrics made of polyester and polyamide (twisted and textured) yarns and their effect on the tensile properties of these fabrics are discussed. Tests show that textured yarn fabrics have a higher elastic recovery than twisted yarn fabrics. All fabrics show higher elastic recovery when they are stretched in the wale direction rather than the course direction. The air permeability of textured fabrics is half that of fabrics made of twisted yarns.
Feasibility of Single Jersey Fabric from Open-End Spun Blended Yarn
Authors: Sharma I.C. , Mukhopadhyay D. , Agarwal B.R.
Published: March 2008

The dimensional and mechanical properties of plain knitted fabrics from open-end and ring spun acrylic-viscose blended yams are investigated. The fabric area shrinkage (%), thickness, and areal density of open-end spun yarns are greater but the bursting strength is less in comparison to ring-spun yarns. Knitted fabrics from ring spun yarns have a greater propensity to pill.
Hydrothermal Setting of Wool-Polyester Blend Fabrics
Authors: De Boos A.G. , Harrigan F.J. , Wemyss A.M.
Published: March 2008

Hydrothermal setting techniques (setting in the presence of water) were used to stabilize wool-polyester blends to piece dyeing. The resultant dyed and finished fabrics differed in several respects from those that were heat set prior to dyeing. Hydrothermal setting generally produced fabrics that were thinner and smoother than those that were heat set, giving the fabrics a smoother and "cooler" feel. The method used to achieve hydrothermal setting also had a considerable influence on the subsequent properties of the fabrics, particularly the tensile properties. Under the conditions used, the tailoring performance of heat set fabrics was marginally superior to that of the hydrothermally set fabrics, but again the extent of the difference depended on the conditions of setting.
Apparel Flammability: Accident Simulations and Bench-Scale Tests
Authors: Krasny John F.
Published: March 2008

Various apparel flammability characteristics of more than 60 fabrics were explored within the framework of the Cooperative Industry Program on General Apparel Flam mability sponsored by the American Textile Manufacturers Institute. Testing consisted of apparel fire simulations on a full size mannequin and a device simulating a moving leg, as well as laboratory measurements of ignition time, heat release, weight loss, and linear and area flame spread. This paper supplements earlier reports by participants in the program by providing a different analysis of the experimental results. Almost any test method used for these purposes satisfactorily identifies apparel fabrics with low burn injury potential. Differentiation according to injury potential among the other fabrics does not appear to be possible with any single test method, although the heat release test methods appear more promising than the others. Fabrics with short ignition times and high heat release rates and total heat release are believed to present a relatively high burn injury hazard. In addition, a tendency to continue burning after contact with a surface (as when a burning garment touches the skin), which is found only in a few fabric types, can add to the burn injury hazard. A test method concept that incorporates these three factors is discussed.
Effect of Zeolite on the Dispersion Stability of Iron Oxide Particles
Authors: Kimura Michiko , Komaki Motoko , Yabe Akihiko
Published: March 2008

The mechanisms of zeolite that contribute to the dispersion stability of iron oxide were investigated. It was evident that an interaction exists between iron oxide and zeolite by the sedimentation method and absorbance measurements. Moreover, zeolite enhances the dispersion stability of iron oxide particles. This study proves that zeolite exerts an effect of increasing pH, which is one of the mechanisms that contributes to the dispersion stability of iron oxide particles.
Dyestuff Diffusion in Oriented Polypeptide Membranes
Authors: Mizutani Setsuko , Takizawa Akira , Kinoshita Takatoshi , Tsujita Yoshiharu
Published: March 2008

Diffusion of dyestuff in "oriented" poly(γ-methyl L-glutamate), poly(γ-butyl L- glutamate), and poly(γ-hexyl L-glutamate) membranes was studied. The three poly peptide membranes differ in the widths of the diffusion paths between helical rods. The diffusion of the dyestuff observed as the reduced concentration gradient in the membrane was calculated on the assumption of a concentration-dependent diffusion coefficient. This dependence corresponds to the diffusion with a Langmuir-type ad sorption of dyestuff. The coefficient obtained in the direction parallel to the helical rod is a few times larger than that in the perpendicular direction. The reduced con centration gradient proceeds quickly to the inner part of the membrane when the side chain region is wide. Using electropositive methylene blue and electronegative alizarine red S and acid blue 45, the effects of the electrostatic and structural nature of the dyestuff on the diffusion were examined. Alizarine red S may diffuse rapidly with low concentration dependence, and methylene blue may diffuse slowly with high concen tration dependence. The behavior with acid blue 45 is intermediate.
Effects of Fiber Properties of Acrylics on Rotor Spinning
Authors: Özipek Bülent
Published: March 2008

An investigation is reported to determine which of the differences in properties of commercially available acrylic fibers are most important in influencing rotor spinning performance and ultimate yarn quality. A crushing test appeared to be a successful method to isolate the differences between acrylic fibers and to predict their processing behavior, Fiber damage and rotor deposit build-up were assessed when different acrylic fibers were spun, and some similarities were found between spinning behavior and yarn properties and the results obtained from the crushing test. Consequently, the different behavior of the fibers during rotor spinning was defined by the differences in fiber characteristics.
ElectroSweep—Electrodynamic Transportation of Cotton Trash
Authors: Weiss Louis C.
Published: March 2008

Electrodynamic forces for moving waste or trash from beneath and around textile processing equipment are produced by a set of parallel electrodes encased in a plastic panel and connected to a polyphase source of AC power. Such an apparatus is known as an electric curtain of the contact type, or more simply, an "electric panel." When the panel is energized, particles in contact with it become charged and are levitated and transported. An electric panel is mounted beneath an experimental opener-cleaner that is considered representative of cotton trash-removing machines. Trash is separated from fibers by mechanical action at a rate implied to be a function of the opener- cleaner's velocity and the amount of cotton processed. Particles of trash, linters, and fine dust fall onto the electric panel and are removed from beneath the opener-cleaner by the electrodynamic forces of ElectroSweep, which removes trash at its maximum production rate of 20 mg/s. To promote the scaling of ElectroSweep to regular mill operation, the effectiveness of a panel was determined. To do this the weight of trash transported in a unit time per unit of panel's surface area was determined. The max imum trash encountered in practice was 0.8 g per (m 2 X sec), and this specific trash was satisfactorily swept along by electrical forces.
X-Ray Photoelectron Spectroscopic Study of the Wool Fiber Surface
Authors: Carr Christopher M. , Leaver Ian H. , Hughes Anthony E.
Published: March 2008

The surface analysis technique of x-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) has been used to investigate the chemical composition and reactivity of the wool epicuticle. Approximate relative proportions of protein and lipid material in the epicuticle have been deduced from the surface elemental ratios; the sulfur content of the proteins in the epicuticle was estimated to be about 9% by weight. Treating wool with potassium t-butoxide in anhydrous t-butanol, a reagent that is reported to cause specific epicuticle modification, caused only minor changes in the elemental composition of the fiber surface. There were marked changes, however, in the sulfur (2p) photoelectron spec trum. Approximately one third of the cystine residues in the epicuticle were converted to cysteic acid residues. Evidence was also obtained for the partial conversion of cystine residues into lanthionine residues.
Plastic Deformation, Crazing, and Fracture Morphology of Acrylic Fibers1
Authors: Kulshreshtha A.K. , Garg V.N. , Sharma Y.N.
Published: March 2008

Morphology and tensile properties of acrylic fibers with different manufacturing histories have been investigated. Acrylic fibers that have been partially drawn undergo appreciable plastic deformation after passing through a yield point and exhibit "crazing" over the entire surface. On the other hand, acrylic fibers that have been fully drawn and annealed display no yield point or crazing and have a lower modulus and con siderably reduced elongation-to-break. SEM photomicrographs of tensile fractures in dicate that the former acrylic fibers show a straight fracture along a transverse section, while the latter invariably fail by axial splitting. The morphological structure of acrylic fibers develops and is perfected as a consequence of the manufacturing process, which alters the fibers' response to applied tensile stress.
Plain-Weave Fabrics Made from Twistless and Low-Twist Staple Yarns
Authors: Lord Peter R. , Stuckey W.C.
Published: March 2008

Although considerable data exists for plain-weave fabrics with twistless and low- twist fillings in combination with ring-spun warps, little data have been published about twisted fillings in combination with a twistless warp. The twist level, yarn spacing, and location of the yarn in either the warp or filling have major effects on the yarn crimp levels in the fabric. These in turn affect the properties of the fabric. In this work, twistless warps were used and the effects of changing the filling were studied. The filling twist levels were varied from zero to the value normally used in ring yarns; the fiber lengths and pick spacings were also varied over a wide range. The critical com binations of these parameters, beyond which failure by fiber slippage occurs, were identified and other forms of fabric failure studied. In particular, the effects of the unusual yarn geometry within the fabric produced considerable differenoes in the resistance of the fabric to tearing. The whole work underlines the importance of the in-situ yarn crimp in determining fabric properties.
Set in Bending of Australian Cashmere and Superfine Merino
Authors: Tester D.H. , Foley C.A.
Published: March 2008

Cashmere and superfine merino fibers of similar diameter but markedly different crimp curvature were wound onto mandrels and set in boiling distilled water for varying times. Regardless of fiber type, the one minute permanent set increased with increasing fiber crimp curvature (mandrel curvature 1.72 mm-1). Wool set very well, and with longer setting times the mean permanent set became asymptotic with values ranging from 89.8% to 98.5% as the time approached 60 minutes. The permanent set of cashmere was more variable but much less than wool; after five minutes cashmere reached its maximum set of about 40%.
Detachment of Solid Particulate Soils in a Laminar Flow—Influence of Particle Diameter on the Detachment of Spherical Glass Particles
Authors: Iwasaki Yoshie , Hikage Yayoi , Yabe Akihiko
Published: March 2008

Experimental studies were made on detaching glass particles with a diameter of 4.0 ∼ 28.0 μm from a glass substrate using a double cylindrical washing device producing laminar flow. The force of particle removal was estimated from the viscosity resistance of the laminar flow imposed on the particles, and the relation between said force and the diameter of the particles was also examined. The greater the diameter of the par ticles, the more difficult their removal as given by the order of 4.0 < 28.0 < 22.2 < 17.6 < 12.8 < 7.6 μm, except in the case of 4.0 μm. The force FH,1/2 of particle removal at 50% efficiency is shown in the ascending order of particle size, i.e., 7.6 < 4.0 < 12.8 < 17.6 < 22.2 < 28.0 μm, and its range falls in 1.17 ∼ 34.6 × 10-4 dyn. For particles with a diameter of 12.8 μm or more, the force of removal per unit volume is almost constant, i.e., 3.01 ∼ 3.49 × 10-7 dyn. The relation between the force of the particle removal and the hydrodynamic function could be graphically traced on the continuous line of locus, without exception, as the result of the calculation made in consideration of the intermolecular force acting between the particle and the sub strate.
Surface Characteristics of Jute Fibers at Different Stages of Growth
Authors: Mukherjee A.C. , Mukhopadhyay A.K. , Mukhopadhyay U.
Published: March 2008

The surface features of jute fibers at various stages of growth were studied. In the early stage, incomplete formation of the middle lamella and collapsing of cell walls occur. Fibrillar orientation in the secondary layer of early stage fibers is helically oriented. The angle of the helix gradually decreases with growth, and after 35 days and onwards, fibrils are almost parallel to the fiber axis.
A Simple Apparatus to Measure Water Vapor Resistance of Textiles
Authors: Van Beest C.A. , Wittgen P.P.M.M.
Published: March 2008

An apparatus has been constructed to measure the water vapor resistance of textiles and other permeable fabrics. The samples are sandwiched between microporous mem branes but are not compressed. The reliability of the apparatus is shown by measuring the vapor resistance of air layers. In practice, a textile sample can be tested within half an hour with an accuracy of 1% or better.
Effects of Sodium Hydroxide and Liquid Ammonia Treatments on the Coverage of Neps in Dyed Cotton Fabric
Authors: Cheek Lenore , Wilcock Anne , Hsu Li-Hua
Published: March 2008

Four swelling treatments were examined for their ability to improve the appearance of cotton fabrics containing numerous neps. Cotton printcloth was treated with two concentrations of sodium hydroxide, 14% and 20%, and with two liquid ammonia treatments, one in which the ammonia was removed through water rinsing and the other through evaporation. The treated fabrics were subsequently dyed with CI direct red 81 and CI direct green 26 and compared for coverage of neps and change in depth of shade. Both sodium hydroxide treatments resulted in virtually complete coverage of the neps. Application of ammonia followed by water rinsing had no significant effect, whereas when the ammonia was removed by evaporation, coverage of neps was significantly improved. The depth of shade of the treated fabrics, in decreasing order, was NaOH-20%/NH3-H2O, NH3-air, NaOH-14%/untreated control.
Effect of Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate on Deposition of Polymer Latices onto Polyester and Cotton Fibers
Authors: Kawasaki Kiyoko , Tamai Hisashi , Suzawa Toshiro
Published: March 2008

The deposition of polystyrene and poly(methyl methacrylate) latices onto polyester and cotton fibers in the presence of sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) was studied. The deposition rates were obtained as functions of pH and SDS concentration by immersing the fiber in latex dispersion without agitation. The results are considered in terms of an electrostatic and van der Waals interaction (heterocoagulation theory). The de position onto polyester fiber at an SDS concentration below critical micell concen tration is influenced by the electrostatic and van der Waals interaction, and at an SDS concentration above critical micell concentration, steric repulsions caused by the sur factant that is adsorbed seem to influence the deposition. No deposition was observed on cotton fibers, even at low SDS concentrations below critical micell concentration. This suggests the presence of steric effects at the surface of cotton fibers.
Shrinkage Modifications of Wool Fabrics by Sulphite Treatments in Aqueous Organic Solvent Media: Effect of the Organic Solvent on the Internal Lipids
Authors: Erra P. , Coderch L. , Juliá R. , Infante R. , Dominguez J. García
Published: March 2008

If a certain solubilization of lipoproteic material takes place during treatments of knitted wool fabrics with sodium sulphite in an isopropanol/water medium, and if these treatments prevent wool shrinkage at some particular conditions of solvent con centration and temperature, then a relationship exists between the dissolved lipoproteic material and the shrinkproofing effect. The lipids of the fiber play an important role in obtaining this effect.
Spreading of Liquids in Textile Assemblies Part II: Effects of Softening on Capillary Spreading
Authors: Kawase Tokuzo , Sekoguchi Sakiko , Fuj Tomiko , Minagawa Motoi
Published: March 2008

The effects of softening agents on the wetting of textiles were investigated by mea suring the capillary spreading of liquid as a function of time. The values of the exponent n during phase II of the capillary spreading of softened fabrics increased in comparison with those of unsoftened fabrics owing to the adsorption of the softening agent, which made the fiber surface more hydrophobic and produced a larger advancing contact angle of the fiber to the water (θ A). Based on experiments with DTAC as a softening agent for nylon, the following quantitative relationship was found between the value of the exponent n and the advancing contact angle of water (θ A): n = (4.62 X 10-3)θ A, - 0.001. From this, reasonable advancing contact angles were also estimated for other fabrics.
Evaluation of Fabrics Woven with Durable Polymeric Sizing Agents
Authors: Moreau Jerry P.
Published: March 2008

From a laboratory evaluation of yarns treated with various polymers, two poly acrylates and a polyurethane offered the potential for further evaluation in full scale slashing and weaving trials. These aqueous polymeric emulsions were applied at room temperature in various combinations to cotton warp yarns (19.7 mg/m). The warps were woven into a 163 g/m 2 poplin fabric. Weaving evaluation demonstrated that some formulations presented problems with yarn clinging and polymer deposits, but one formulation produced a weaving performance equivalent to that of a warp slashed with a conventional starch formulation. The polymers were still present on warp yarns after pilot plant scouring and bleaching of fabrics. Durability was determined by fabric properties and confirmed by infrared spectroscopy. Data are presented on the physical properties of bleached fabrics and the effect of laboratory dyeing, mercerization, and durable-press treatment of experimental fabrics compared to a control fabric. Polymers, used as permanent sizing agents, offer opportunities for energy savings, less water pollution, and improved fabric properties after finishing.
Mechanism of Bilateral Staining of Merino Wool Fibers with Basic Dyes
Authors: Sakabe Hiroshi , Ito Hiraku , Miyamoto Takeaki , Inagaki Hiroshi
Published: March 2008

The mechanism of bilateral staining of the cortex of wool fibers by basic dyes has been investigated in detail. Merino wool fibers were treated with formic acid and pronase, and their behavior in staining with basic dyes such as methylene blue and janus green was examined using light and electron microscopy. Formic acid is known to remove intercellular cement, one of the nonkeratinous proteins, from the cell mem brane complex, while pronase removes all nonkeratinous proteins. Bilateral staining was still distinctly observed after cuticle removal, but not for wool fibers treated with pronase, for fiber fragments obtained by treatment with formic acid with stirring, or for cortical cell particles recovered after fibrillation of the cortex in formic acid. The microfibril-matrix structure of the cortex remained unchanged, however, even after treatment with formic acid and with pronase. These results imply that bilateral staining with basic dyes occurs because of the difference in the network structure of nonker atinous proteins, especially the intercellular cement of the cell membrane complex between the orthocortex and paracortex.