bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Effect of Bound Water on Tensile Properties of Native Cellulose
Authors: Nakamura Kunio , Hatakeyama Tatsuko , Hatakeyama Hyoe
Published: March 2008

Tensile properties of native cotton cellulose having various water contents from 0% to 50% in weight were measured. X-ray diffraction patterns of samples containing sorbed water were also measured. The dimensional change of the cross section of a single fiber was observed under a microscope. The amount of bound water found in cotton cellulose was estimated by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).

Tensile strength, elongation, aqd elasticity of cotton fibers varied with water content; however, these values leveled off at about 20% water content. The half width of diffraction peak (002) obtained from x-ray diffractometry increased as the amount of sorbed water increased, and then attained a constant value at about 20% water content. The results obtained by DSC showed that values of 20% water content agreed well with the amount of bound water.
Influence of Nutrition on Some Properties of High- and Low-Crimp Merino Wools and Their Cellular Components
Authors: Kulkarni V.G.
Published: March 2008

High- and low-crimp wool fibers, due to the influence of low nutrition levels, had increased crimp frequencies and increased volume swelling in formic acid but decreased sulfur content and fiber diameter. Ortho- and paracortical cells were liberated by ultrasonification of the two types of wool swollen in formic acid. Low-crimp fibers disintegrate more readily than high-crimp fibers, and the rate is markedly accelerated in wools from sheep with low levels of nutrition. The expected compositional variations between ortho- and paracortical cells were observed, but in addition, both cell types were sensitive to genetic and nutritional variation.
Finishing Agents for Cotton from Acrylamide and Dialdehydes
Authors: Frick J.G. , Harper R.J.
Published: March 2008

Reaction products from acrylamide and glyoxal or glutaraldehyde have been used as finishing agents to give cotton wrinkle resistance and durable press properties. These reaction products serve as examples of adducts from aldehydes and an amide with an electron-withdrawing acyl group. The effectiveness of these products was less than that of conventional amide formaldehyde agents but about equal to that of presently available formaldehyde-free agents. The finish from acrylamide and glyoxal had greater resistance to acid than the most common formaldehyde-free finish. At its present stage of development, the experimental finish caused some discoloration and lacked chlorine resistance.
Mathematical Fitting of Modulus-Strain Curves of Poly(ethylene Terephthalate) Industrial Yarns
Authors: Lucas L.J.
Published: March 2008

A mathematical model was developed for fitting the modulus-strain curves of poly(ethylene terephthalate) industrial yams. To develop the model, several asym metric, bell-shaped lines in different combinations were tried out on the modulus- strain curves of no fewer than 90 yarns with widely varying mechanical properties. The model that gave the best fit consists of the sum of three modified Pearson VII lines. The fitting procedure yields a set of 13 parameters by which the modulus-strain curve is fully determined. To illustrate the practical usefulness, some examples are given of relations between process conditions and the calculated modulus-strain pa rameters.
Computer Simulation of the Mechanical Properties of Nonwoven Fabrics
Authors: Britton Peter N. , Sampson Arthur J. , Gettys W. Edward
Published: March 2008

The feasibility is considered of describing bond breaking effects in a nonwoven fabric with the computer simulation method. The results of calculations on each of two model fabrics of different sizes are presented. The simulation method successfully describes the response of the fabric to the discontinuous and irreversible bond breaking events. The behavior of both fabrics is virtually identical, indicating that size effects are negligible for this model fabric.
Surface Characterization of Bimorphic PET Filaments by Inverse Gas Chromatography
Authors: Gózdz Antoni S. , Weigmann Hans-Dietrich
Published: March 2008

Undrawn poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) monofilaments were surface-crystal lized through contact with dimethylformamide (DMF) using a continuous method. The specific surface area (SSA) of the resulting bimorphic filaments determined by inverse gas chromatography was found to be several hundred times the SSA of the starting material. The cavitated surface morphology has limited thermal stability, thermal annealing and hot drawing causing a monotonic decrease in SSA with in creasing temperature; however, scanning electron micrographs show that a substantial part of the surface structure is preserved even after annealing at 180°C. In addition, though hot drawing produces filaments with lower surface areas that are found for undrawn filaments, the areas are more thermally stable. The presence of small amounts of water or methanol in the DMF increased the SSA of the filaments, but amounts larger than several volume percent brought about a rapid decrease in SSA.
Dispersion and Polar Force Components of Surface Tension of Oily Soils
Authors: Saito Masako , Yabe Akihiko
Published: March 2008

The surface tension and the dispersion and polar components of the surface tension for fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and triglycerides were estimated by contact angle mea surements in order to apply these concepts to a detergency study. An extended Fowkes' equation was adopted for the calculation.

γL of liquid oils (fatty acids, C4-Cs; fatty alcohols, C4-C11) at 293 K decreases slightly with increasing chain length. The contribution of γLd to γL is 90% or more. γS of fat oils (fatty acids, C12-C 18; fatty alcohols, C14-C18, triglycerides, C 12-C18) at 293 K increases with small carbon chain length and decreases when the carbon chain length increases. Triglyceride is the lowest surface energy solid among these three kinds of fats. γ S of decanoic acid, 1-dodecanol and 1-tetradecanol at 283 K (solid state), is larger than γL of the same materials at 313 K (liquid state).
Reversal Frequencies in Developing Cotton Fibers
Authors: Hebert J.J. , Boylston E.K.
Published: March 2008

Directional reversals in the helical deposition of fibrils affect the performance of cotton fibers. A developmental study was therefore conducted to determine the in fluences of genetics and developmental pattern on the incidence of these reversals. One cultivar of cotton, Deltapine 61, was studied in both 1980 and 1981; four other cultivars, Acala SJ-5, Stoneville 825, Stoneville 213, and Pima S-5, were studied only in 1981. Of these, the first four are upland cotton (Gossypium hirsutum L.) while the latter is a long-staple cotton (G. barbadense L.). Reversal frequencies were measured by polarized light microscopic techniques. In each cultivar, reversals were first detected after the third week of fiber development, coincident with the initiation of secondary wall formation. Reversal frequency increased with fiber maturity. Because reversal frequencies increased with fiber age, it seems that not all layers of the secondary wall reverse together. Slippage between layers may result from reversals occurring during late stages of fiber development. A plausible explanation for the two types of reversals reported in the literature is offered.
Effect of Drying Rate on the Location of Durable Press Reagents in Fabric
Authors: Bertoniere Noelie R. , King Walter D. , Rowland Stanley P.
Published: March 2008

The effect of various drying conditions on the location of DMDHEU or MgCl2·6H2O in fabric samples was assessed. A nonsubstantive dye/grid technique was developed for following solute movement during drying.
Sensory and Physical Hand Properties of Inherently Flame-Retardant Sleepwear Fabrics 1
Authors: Kim Charles J. , Piromthamsiri K.
Published: March 2008

Inherently flame-retardant sleepwear fabrics for children were assessed by 38 judges for sensory hand qualities using the semantic differential, and for hand preferences using the full forced-choice paired comparison. A 99 point certainty scale was used for both assessments. Physical hand properties were also measured instrumentally. Sensory hand responses differed more by fabric construction type than by fiber content, whereas hand preferences differed more by fiber content than by fabric construction type. There were no clear relationships between sensory hand qualities and preferences, although smoothness, softness, and gentleness of hand were associated with more favorable preferences. The word pairs that described physical properties directly (e.g., "flimsy/firm" for stiffness) were highly correlated with physical measures.
Cotton Dust Characterization: A Comparison of Sonically Separated Fine Dust (<20 μm) with Respirable (Vertical Elutriator) Dusts
Authors: Fornes R.E. , Gilbert R.D.
Published: March 2008

Based on comparison of properties of the inorganic composition of various cotton dusts, this paper demonstrates that cotton dusts <20 μm in diameter separated from card room condenser trash material are very similar chemically to dusts collected in that same environment by a vertical elutriator cotton dust sampler. A method to estimate the fraction of cotton dust from sources such as cotton leaf and bract, humidifier water solids, soils, and background ambient air is given. Data from dusts obtained from the North Carolina State model card room and dusts reported in the literature are compared. In a study of 24 bales of cotton processed in the Model Card Room, approximately 26% of the elutriator dust was from humidifier water solids, less than 15% from ambient air and soils, and the remainder mostly from cotton bract and leaf.
Production and Performance of Wool Blend Fabrics Composed of Yarns Spun on the Cotton System
Authors: Lupton Christopher J. , Khan Samina
Published: March 2008

Two grades (62's and 80's) of 50.8 mm (maximum fiber length, 2 inches) cut-top wool were intimately mixed with cotton and with polyester fibers at varying blend levels. Subsequently, 13 yarns (36.9 tex, 16/1 Nc) were ring-spun using the short- staple system of mechanical processing and standard crepe fabrics were manufactured from each. Some production problems are highlighted together with their solutions. Simple finishing routines and resulting fabric properties are described.
Thermodynamic Features in Acrylic Fiber Dyeing with Basic Dyes
Authors: Alberti Guido , Degiorgi Maria Rita
Published: March 2008

The dyeing affinity of some pyridine basic azo dyes for Leacril 16 acrylic fiber was measured from the Langmuir isotherms. Results show a dependance of affinity on dye structure. Comparison with previous results supports the hypothesis of constant group contributions to dyeing standard free energy.
Morphological Composition of the Cuticle from Chemically Treated Wool
Authors: Roper K. , Föhles J. , Peters D. , Zahn H.
Published: March 2008

The cuticle plays a decisive part in wool processing, and changes in its morphological composition after industrial finishing are of particular interest. The known enzymatic method for determining the content of endo- and exocuticle is not applicable to chemically modified keratins. A new method was developed for calculating the com position of the cuticle from industrially finished wool on the basis of the results of amino acid analysis. The cuticle was isolated by mechanical treatment of wool in sodium dodecyl sulfate solution. A linear relationship was found between the content of the characteristic amino acids, aspartic acid and leucine, and the amount of en docuticle in isolated cuticle. The results were confirmed by quantitating the diagnostic compounds asparagine and N'-(γ-glutamyl)lysine by means of enzymatic hydrolysis. Shrinkproofing processes effected a specific destruction of the exocuticle, while chrome dyeing caused a loss of nonkeratinous proteins from the endocuticle.
Reduction of Warp Tension Fluctuation and Beat-up Strip Width in Weaving
Authors: Gu Huang
Published: March 2008

Analytical examination is made to ascertain the effect of the whip roll movement on warp tension fluctuation and beat-up strip width in weaving. The study reveals that the improved whip roll movements on Draper model X-3 looms enable the warp cyclic tension to be more even. The increase in the hardness of beat-up as a result of the modified whip roll motion reduces the width of the beat-up strip by 23%. Machine performance data and fabric property data are reported. The effectiveness of the modified whip roll motion is shown.
Heat Transfer Through Fiber Beds by Radiation with Shading and Conduction
Authors: Stuart I.M. , Holcombe B.V.
Published: March 2008

Heat flow through a bed of fibers takes place by conduction through the air and fibers and also by infrared radiation. A proportion of the radiation is absorbed by fibers in its path, and the result is a shading or shadowing effect along the projected path. This paper describes the derivation of heat transfer equations that take this shadowing into account and permit description of the temperature profile through the bed together with the net heat flow rate through the boundary surfaces of the bed.
Applying Stepwise Multiple Regression Analysis to the Reaction of Formaldehyde with Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Gonzales Elwood J. , Rowland Stanley P.
Published: March 2008

A fractional factorial design of experiments was formulated for the reaction of formaldehyde with cotton cellulose in the presence of hydroxymethanesulfonic acid in the conventional pad-dry-cure process. None of the 30 experimental treatments of cotton offered an attractive balance of durable press performance properties. Ap plication of multiple linear regression analysis to the experimental data resulted in equations relating the experimental variables to eight textile physical properties. These equations were used to calculate predicted values for each textile property that met or exceeded a minimum acceptable specification (MAS). The MAS was satisfied or exceeded (except for Accelerotor abrasion resistance) within small regions of profile plots for finishing reactions only at 140°C and in these cases, with decreasing area of regions for cures of 1, 3, 5, and 7 minutes. Experiments failed to confirm the validity of the regions of MAS. Correlation coefficients for the cellulose-formaldehyde- hydroxymethanesulfonic acid reaction were found to be lower than those for cellulose- DMDHEU reactions. These items are considered in some detail.
Origin of Acidity in Jute Fiber
Authors: Das N.N. , Das S.C. , Dutt A.S. , Mukherjee A.K.
Published: March 2008

The nature of acidic functionalities associated with raw, demineralized, and sa ponified and demineralized jute fibers, and with a D-xylan derived from the raw fiber were investigated. Neutralization curves for each sample, prepared by plotting pH at different stages of neutralization against the amount of alkali added for a definite weight of the sample, were compared with one another. A technique, involving a diazo coupling reaction with some aromatic amines, was developed for estimating phenolic groups present in the lignin component of the fibers. The results pertaining to these investigations indicated that the free acidity in raw and demineralized jute fibers arises only from the phenolic groups of the lignin component.
Variation of Microbial Contaminants in Classers' Raw Cottons
Authors: Morey P.R. , Fischer J.J. , Sasser P.E. , Foarde K.K. , Attfield M.D.
Published: March 2008

The content of endotoxin, gram negative bacteria (GNB), gram positive bacteria (GPB) and fungi was determined for 296 classers' raw cottons derived from various U.S.A. growing areas in 1980. Levels of endotoxin varied from 0.01 to 83 ng per mg of raw cotton, while GNB counts covered the range from 5 to 2.3 X 105 colony forming units per mg. Tinged and spotted color groups contained higher levels of endotoxin than white grades. Significant differences between geographical regions were observed in the content of each microbial contaminant entrained in raw cotton. The Southwest and Southeast growing regions were characterized by raw cottons with the highest endotoxin levels. In general, Southwest raw cotton had the highest counts of GNB, GPB, and fungi, whereas cotton from the Farwest contained the lowest numbers of these same microorganisms.
Loss in Fiber Tenacity During Separation in Rotor Spinning
Authors: Salhotra K.R. , Chattopadhyay R.
Published: March 2008

During the opening of fibers by the opening roller, a considerable number of fibers suffer breakage at one or more points along their length. The vigorous action of the teeth of opening roller also causes a drop in fiber tenacity and elongation. Majority hooks fed in the leading direction cause a greater loss in tenacity than in the trailing direction.
Residual Oily Soil Distribution on Polyester/Cotton Fabric After , Laundering with Selected Detergents at Various Wash Temperatures
Authors: Breen N.E. , Durnam D.J. , Obendorf S.K.
Published: March 2008

The reduction of wash water temperatures to conserve energy and the changes in detergent formulations in response to environmental concerns have intensified the already difficult consumer problem of soil removal by laundering. In this investigation, the effect of wash temperature on the extent of oily soil penetration into a durable press polyester/cotton fabric was studied using wash temperatures of 4, 27, 38, and 49°C and three different detergents. The total amounts of residual oleic acid were determined by radiotracer analysis, and the distribution of the oil was evaluated by backscattered electron images and electron beam x-ray microanalyses.

At all wash temperatures, the two built, heavy-duty powdered detergents removed a larger amount of oleic acid than the unbuilt, heavy-duty liquid detergent. Higher wash temperatures increased the removal of oleic acid from the polyester/cotton fabric for all detergents. The largest improvement in oil removal with increase in wash temperature was observed for the unbuilt, heavy-duty liquid detergent. With increased wash temperature, the concentration of oil was markedly reduced in the crenulations of the cotton fibers and the small interfiber spaces between closely spaced polyester or cotton fibers. These decreases in concentration of oil in capillaries within the yam structure with increase in wash temperature were larger for the unbuilt, heavy-duty liquid than for either of the built, heavy-duty powdered detergents.
Potassium: A New Marker for Washed Cotton
Authors: Domelsmith L.N. , Berni Ralph J.
Published: March 2008

Potassium salts are readily removed from raw cotton by washing the cotton with water. The potassium contents of cotton samples determined by ion-selective electrode, atomic absorption, and x-ray fluorescence methods confirmed that washed samples had low levels of potassium compared to unwashed samples. A sodium cobaltinitrite spot test for potassium is consistently positive for unwashed cotton samples and negative for washed cotton samples. Thus, the potassium content can serve as a marker for washed cotton.
Performance of a High Velocity Pulse Jet Filter in a Wool Carbonizing Process
Authors: Humphries W. , Miceli M. , Madden J.J.
Published: March 2008

Experiments on a high velocity pulse jet filter used to control emissions from a wool carbonizing process have shown that it is necessary to use filter cloths with a surface skin to prevent premature blinding of the fabric. The skin partially prevents dust and wool fiber from penetrating into the depth of the fabric and, subsequently, the dust is more easily dislodged during cleaning. Although both Goretex® and a calendered needlefelt have given satisfactory performance at a filtration velocity of 65 mm/s, there is a gradual increase in the resistance to airflow through the fabrics with time. This is due to the accumulation of dust on the fabric, which is not removed by the normal cleaning pulse. After eight months service, 56% of the resistance of the Goretex cloth was due to dust that was not dislodged from the fabric during cleaning, 38% to dust which was dislodged during cleaning but immediately redeposited on the bag, and 6% to dust added during the filtration cycle and cleaned from the fabric by the cleaning pulse. The efficiency of the cleaning process can be improved by cleaning the filter off-line rather than the more normal on-line cleaning. Under these conditions the dust that is usually redeposited on the bag is allowed to reach the hopper.
Morphological Composition of the Cuticle from Chemically Treated Wool
Authors: Röper K. , Föhles J. , Peters D. , Zahn H.
Published: March 2008

The effect of shrinkproofing processes on the surface of wool was studied. Tops were subjected to the individual steps of various industrial antifelting processes. Two shrinkproofing procedures involving resins and one oxidative chlorination procedure were investigated. The samples were characterized by analyzing the whole fiber. Chemical and physical data from equivalent processing steps were compared. The cuticle from the modified fibers was isolated and investigated by means of amino acid analysis. Based on these results, the morphological composition of the isolated cuticle was determined. Calculations involving the known composition of the isolated cuticle cells and the amount of proteins dissolved during the cuticle isolation procedure give information about the loss of exocuticle during industrial shrinkproofing. The findings reflect the role of pH value and nature of active oxidative agents in shrink proofing procedures. Short chlorination procedures at low pH values caused more drastic damage than extremely lengthy chlorination procedures at higher pH values.
Evaluation of a Series of Reactive Ionic, Nonionic, and Hydrophobic Compounds as Antistatic Agents for Wool
Authors: Lewis D.M. , Pailthorpe M.T.
Published: March 2008

Over thirty reactive, ionic, and nonionic compounds were evaluated as possible antistatic agents for wool. The reactive groups included mono- and dichloro-s-triazine, epoxy, γ-chlorohydrin, β-sulphato ethyl sulphone, aceto-s-thiosulphate, and chlo roacetyl groups. The ionic groups were sulphonate, sulphate, sulphamate, carboxylate, phosphonate, and quarternary ammonium groups; the nonionic groups were poly ethylene glycols (PEGs) ranging in molecular weight from 200 to 6000.

Anionic and hydrophobic groups have little effect on electrical resistance mea surements, in marked contrast to the cationics. For nonionics, as the molecular weight of the PEG increased, the electrical resistance decreased, reaching a minimum at molecular weight 600 after which the electrical resistance increased, until for PEGs of molecular weight exceeding 2000, the antistatic effect was lost. A synergism appears to exist between the PEG600 and cationic groups both in simple mixtures of the two compounds and for covalently bonded products made from them. On the basis of these observations, an idealized model antistat is proposed which should allow the production of wash fast antistatic wool.
Improved Comfort Polyester
Authors: Yoon H.N. , Buckley A.
Published: March 2008

Thermal transport properties of a series of polyester, cotton, and polyester/cotton blend fabrics were determined in an effort to understand physical basis of clothing comfort. The results indicate that both the fabric construction and the constituent fiber properties affect thermal transport. In general, thermal insulation, air permeability, and water vapor transmission rate are dependent mainly on the fabric geometrical parameters, namely, thickness and porosity. Conversely, liquid water transport is strongly dependent on the constituent fibers, with cotton generally showing advantages over polyester. Geometrical factors do, however, play a major role in this mechanism, and a 50/50 polyester/cotton blend was nearly identical to cotton in liquid water transport behavior. Further, the perceived superior comfort performance of cotton seems largely due to the packing behavior in the yam.
Relationship Between the Whiteness of Scoured Wool and the Level of Residual Nitrogen-Containing Contaminants
Authors: Bateup B.O.
Published: March 2008

Samples of Merino fleece wool that had been scoured either in the laboratory or in commercial plants were analyzed for whiteness, residual solvent extractables, ash content, and residual nitrogen-containing contaminants. A statistically significant linear correlation existed between whiteness and residual nitrogen containing contaminants for laboratory scoured wool, provided that the wool had not been excessively yellowed as a result of highly alkaline (i.e., pH ≥ 11) treatments. For wools from a commercial plant using immersion bowls, whiteness and residual nitrogen-containing contaminants were linearly correlated. Whiteness at each stage of scouring (bowl 4— dryer) deteriorated as the time of scouring increased. Whiteness and residual con taminants were also linearly correlated for wool scoured by a Lo-flo system. The whiteness of the product deteriorated slightly as the time of scouring increased; however, the decrease in whiteness could not be attributed to inefficient removal of contaminants as with the commercially scoured samples. The decrease was possibly due to staining of the wool by either the Lo-flo liquor or the alkaline rinse bowl. When the level of residual solvent extractables and ash content was high, a statistically significant correlation existed between both of these contaminants and the whiteness of scoured wool.
Mechanism of Light Fading of Azo Dyes on Polyvinyl Chloride and Poly(ethylene Terephthalate)
Authors: Shah C.D. , Jain D.K.
Published: March 2008

A series of monoazo compounds based on phenyl azo-β-naphthol and phenyl azo-8-hydroxyquinoline were applied to polyvinyl chloride and poly(ethylene terephthalate), respectively. From the relation between the electron attracting or withdrawing properties of the substituents in the benzene nucleus and relative fading rates, the conclusion was that the fading reaction in both the dye-fiber systems is probably oxidative. This conclusion agrees with that from an earlier analysis of fading products of anthraquinone disperse dyes on polyester. It is therefore clear that both polyvinyl chloride and poly(ethylene terephthalate) conform with the general observation that fading on any nonprotein is oxidative, provided the oxygen has access to the dye.

Lightfastness of phenyl azo-β-naphthol dyes on polyvinyl chloride and that of phenyl azo-8-hydroxyquinoline dyes on poly(ethylene terephthalate) was very low. Also, in both the systems, the dyes in the substrate were in the form of a collection of particles of many different sizes.
Selected Single Fiber Mechanical Properties of Different Gossypium Barbadense Cotton Varieties
Authors: Kamal M.M. , Zeronian S.H. , Ellison M.S. , Hyer A.H.
Published: March 2008

The mechanical properties, including the breaking twist angle (BTA) and flexural fatigue life, of fibers of a number of different cotton varieties belonging to Gossypium barbadense were determined. The BTA test was used to obtain an indication of their brittleness. The brittleness of the cotton fibers correlated significantly with their length, flat bundle tenacity, and elongation. It appeared to be independent of fiber fineness and wall thickness. Scouring caused a small decrease in BTA. Longer staple cotton fibers appear to be inherently more brittle than shorter staple fibers. Differences were observed between the flexural fatigue behavior of the long staple cotton fibers and that of the medium-long staple types tested in this study. Flexural fatigue properties appear to be inversely and significantly related to fiber brittleness and tenacity and also directly and significantly related to Micronaire reading.
Improved Comfort Polyester
Authors: Yoon H.N. , Sawyer L.C. , Buckley A.
Published: March 2008

Mechanical and surface properties were determined for polyester, cotton, and polyester/cotton blend knit fabrics. The polyester fabric showed a higher resistance to tensile deformation than the cotton fabric, while the blend fabrics showed an intermediate resistance in accordance with the blend level. This behavior was due to better packing efliciency of polyester fibers, resulting in a yarn with a higher modulus. In contrast, the trend was reversed in bending and lateral deformation behavior. This is postulated to be related to higher residual stress in the fabrics due to the different creep behavior of cotton fibers. The compression behavior, friction behavior, and contacting surface fiber counts all point to increasing numbers of surface fibers with increasing cotton content in the fabrics; however, the 50/50 polyester/cotton blend fabric showed almost an identical behavior to the 100% cotton fabric, as was the case with transport properties.
Determination of Poisson's Ratio in Thermally Bonded Nonwoven Fabrics
Authors: Goswami Bhuvenesh C. , Suryadevara Jogendra , Vigo Tyrone L.
Published: March 2008

Uniaxial and biaxial tests were compared in terms of their efficiency and accuracy in determining Poisson's ratios for thermally bonded nonwoven fabrics. The uniaxial test did not provide as true an estimate of the ratio as the biaxial test, because the binder fiber film characteristics dominated the effect on dimensional changes during uniaxial straining. The biaxial test was more time consuming but produced a truer Poisson's ratio.
Fibrillation of the Cortex of Merino Wool Fibers by Freezing-Thawing Treatment
Authors: Ito Hiraku , Sakabe Hiroshi , Miyamoto Takeaki , Inagaki Hiroshi
Published: March 2008

This work deals with the fibrillation of the cortex of Merino wool by successive freezing (freezing followed by thawing) in various swelling liquids. The freezing- thawing experiments were carried out on native and decuticled wool fibers using water, n-propanol/water, dichloroacetic acid, and formic acid as swelling liquid at freezing temperatures of -78°C and -196°C. The results on native wool showed that the fibers were finely cut in round slices under suitable conditions, but no fi brillation of the cortex occurred under the experimental conditions. For decuticled wool, on the other hand, fibrillation of the cortex was caused by repeating the freezing cycles of 200 in dichloroacetic acid or in formic acid. The orthocortical and paracortical cells were separated from the disintegrated cortex by using a difference in density between both cortical cells, and their amino acid compositions were compared with those reported in literature.
Load-Elongation Properties of Filaments in a Multifilament Yarn
Authors: Datye Keshav V. , Mishra Sachi
Published: March 2008

The load-elongation values of individual filaments in a multifilament yarn were studied. The behavior of individual filaments in a bundle is not the same as that of filaments tested individually; therefore, the load-elongation diagram of a multifilament yarn has to be used to arrive at tenacity values of individual filaments in a yam. A technique for obtaining load-elongation values of individual filaments was developed using the breaking steps in a load-elongation diagram of a multifilament yam. Preliminary results are described.
Sorption of Water-Soluble Anionic Polymers by Wool
Authors: Cook J.R. , Fleischfresser B.E.
Published: March 2008

The sorption by wool of two water-soluble, anionic polymers based on poly- (propylene oxide) with molecular weights in the range 3,000-10,000 has been in vestigated. Despite their high molecular weights, both polymers readily diffused into wool fibers under acidic conditions. Staining tests show that the polymers are pref erentially sorbed into the orthocortex of the fibers.
Improved Comfort Polyester
Authors: Hollies N.R.S. , Demartino R.N. , Yoon H.N. , Buckley A. , Becker C.L. , Jackson W.
Published: March 2008

A series of 21 knit fabric variations, including cotton, rayon, polypropylene, a number of polyester constructions and finishes, and poly/cotton blends, were compared in four wearer trials in order to produce a more comfortable polyester garment. Polymer type, cross-sectional shape, and other engineering modifications were all found to affect the comfort of female subjects wearing knit tops with these clothing variations. Combined with a jet dyeing procedure and, in one case, a topical finish, comfort levels close to all cotton were achieved with an 80/20 polyester/cotton blend and an all polyester fabric.
Estimation of Tensile Properties of Single Cotton Fibers from Load-Elongation Curves of Bundles
Authors: Dhavan K. , Bhatt H.H. , Radhakrishnan T.
Published: March 2008

A simple mathematical model was derived to predict tensile properties of single cotton fibers from bundle load-elongation curves. The average breaking extension, coefficient of variation of breaking extension, and the average breaking strength were obtained. The validity of the model was verified on two samples of cotton.
Effect of Humidity on Soiling Behavior of Textiles
Authors: Kumar Raj , Dave A.M. , Srivastava H.C.
Published: March 2008

Soiling of cotton, crosslinked cotton, and polyester fabrics with a model particulate and a mixed soil has been investigated at different levels of relative humidity. Measurements have been repeated with fabrics containing sorbed liquid water. Soiling with oil increases with increase in relative humidity up to ∼65% and then decreases with further increase in humidity. Soiling characteristics of different fabrics with oily soil are in the following order: cotton > crosslinked cotton > polyester. The effect of relative humidity on the soiling behavior of different fabrics with particulate ferric oxide soil is not pronounced. An attempt has been made to explain the soiling . behavior under different relative humidities in terms of the molecular picture of moisture sorption at the fiber surface.
SRRC Carding Cleaner for Cleaning and Shortening Wool Fiber
Authors: Shepard Charles L.
Published: March 2008

A carding cleaner, developed at the Southern Regional Research Center for opening and cleaning cotton fiber, was adapted to clean and shorten the length of scoured wool fibers. Investigations were conducted with two types of wire clothing on both cylinders, a fine wire clothing having a high tooth density and a coarse wire clothing having a low tooth density, and two velocity differentials between cylinders. The effects of these conditions on removing trash and shortening the length of the fibers were examined using eight grades of scoured wool.

The study showed the cylinders clothed with these wires significantly reduced the length of the wool fibers. It further indicated a low velocity differential between cylinders clothed with coarse wire cleaned the scoured wool as well as the fine wire cylinders and with an improved fiber length distribution.
Sulphonic Acid Groups in Monoazo Acid Dyes and Their Effect on Lightfastness on Nylon 66
Authors: Shah C.D. , Jain D.K.
Published: March 2008

This paper discusses the measurement of the increase in lightfastness of some monoazo acid dyes on nylon 66 obtained by increasing the number of sulphonic acid groups in the dye molecules. The increase may be attributed to decreasing surface activity of dye molecules and also to increased strength of dye-fiber bonding caused by an enhanced likelihood of ionic links forming between dye and fiber.
Protective Fabrics: A Comparison of Laboratory Methods for Evaluating Thermal Protective Performance in Convective/Radiant Exposures
Authors: Shalev Itzhak , Barker Roger L.
Published: March 2008

Two laboratory methods used to evaluate the ability of fabrics to provide protective insulation against high intensity thermal exposures are compared. These procedures are ASTM D4108-82, a method that uses a single laboratory gas burner as the heat source, and a more versatile method that combines two gas burners and quartz heaters to provide a different mixture of radiant and convective heat. Comparisons are based on a series of tests made on a large group of specialized fabrics that might be used in the construction of protective apparel. Among the fabrics tested are samples made with flame resistant cotton, rayon, and wool, fabrics from glass and ceramic fibers, and fabrics from polyaramids, cross-linked phenolics, modacrylics, polybenzimidazole, and stabilized acrylic fibers. Differences in materials comparisons caused by the test procedure are discussed, especially the difference made by the balance of radiant to convective energy provided by the heat sources. Correlations are made with fiber and fabric properties. Special emphasis is placed on observing the performance of alu minized samples.
Structure-Property Relations in Chemically Treated Cotton Fibers
Authors: Chidambareswaran P.K. , Sreenivasan S. , Patil N.B. , Sundaram V.
Published: March 2008

A study has been made of the influence of fine structural parameters on the tensile properties of cottons swollen in slack condition in aqueous solutions of sodium hy droxide and ethylenediamine. The results confirm that lattice type and crystallinity are important in deciding the tensile properties of the treated cottons.
Measuring Refractive Indices and Birefringence of Multiple Skin Polymer Fibers from Their Interference Patterns
Authors: Hamza A.A. , Fouda I.M. , Hashish A.H. , El-Farahaty K.A.
Published: March 2008

Two different analytical methods were used to study the optical properties of fibers: from the interference pattern produced by the formation of multiple-beam Fizeau fringes in transmission and at reflection crossing polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl chloride, and polyethylene fibers. The advantages of the methods are discussed and illustrated using photomicrographs.
Influence of Resin Add-on and Co-applied Water in Foam Finishing of Cotton Fabric
Authors: Brown Russell L. , Bryant George M.
Published: March 2008

Multiple regression analysis is used to determine the effect of resin add-on and co-applied water in crease resistant finish on cotton. Dry crease recovery angle (DWRA) and tear resistance of treated fabrics are measured. Regression equations show that increasing resin add-on increases DWRA and decreases tear resistance. Conversely, increased co-applied water reduces DWRA and increases tear resistance. A hypothesis is presented to account for the independent and interactive effects of resin add-on and the amount of co-applied water, when used with the FFT process.
Coir Fibers
Authors: Varma D.S. , Varma Manika , Varma I.K.
Published: March 2008

Coir ( Cocos nucifera ), a ligno-cellulosic fiber, is cheap and abundant in the coastal regions of tropical countries. In this paper the effect of physical and chemical treatments on the mechanical properties of coir fibers is reported. Changes in moisture regain, crystallite orientation, and percentage crystallinity were observed when fibers were treated with hydrochloric acid (10%), sodium hydroxide (10%), and acetic acid (10%). Scanning electron micrographs of the fractured surfaces of the fibers showed extensive fibrillation. Tenacity and elongation-at-break decreased with chemical treatment and UV irradiation. An increase in initial modulus and crystallinity was observed with alkali treatment.
Assessing the Wool Characteristics and Liquor System Performance of an Optimized Lo-flo Scouring Plant
Authors: Anderson C.A. , Bateup B.O. , Warner J.J.
Published: March 2008

Three merino fleece wools of different characteristics were scoured in a pilot-scale Lo-flo machine under conditions designed to achieve minimum water consumption, uniformly high quality scoured wool, and high recoveries of pollutants from the scouring liquors. Bowls 1 to 4 were neutral to remove most of the grease and to enhance destabilization of the scour liquor; bowls 5 to 8 were operated under conditions designed to maintain the quality of the scoured wool over a long period. The only liquor discharges were a dilute rinse effluent from bowl 5 (maximum, 2.4 l/kg greasy wool) and a concentrated discharge comprising the bowl 1 flowdown and wet sludges from the grease centrifuge and settling tank (0.31 l/kg GW). Under the modified conditions the characteristics of the scoured wool, including whiteness (WCIE), did not change significantly over a long scouring period and the removal of pollutants from the effluent was high.
Liquid Ammonia and Caustic Mercerization of Cotton Fibers Using X-Ray, Infrared, and Sorption Measurements
Authors: Saapan A.A. , Kandil S.H. , Habib A.M.
Published: March 2008

X-ray and infrared spectroscopic analyses were used to measure crystallinity of cotton fibers swollen in liquid ammonia and an aqueous solution of caustic soda. Changes due to such swelling, which took place in the accessible regions, were determined by moisture regain and iodine and dye sorption. Results showed that mercerization treatments lead to a sharp decrease in cellulose crystallinity as assessed by determining the increase of reactivity of cellulose towards dye sorption. Iodine and moisture sorption were used to estimate cellulose accessibility. From these measurements general correlations were obtained between the x-ray crystallinity index and iodine sorption values, as well as a correlation between crystallinity ratio determined by infrared spectroscopy and accessibility determined by moisture sorption.
Effects op Flame Retardant Cotton of Laundering with Bleach
Authors: Johnsen A.C. , Eggestad J.
Published: March 2008

Flame retardant cotton fabrics (Pyrovatex CP-treated) were subjected to laundering or soaking in hypochlorite bleach. The quantity of bleach and the method of bleaching are discussed with respect to changes in flammability as shown by trends in char length and elemental composition. Low concentrations of hypochlorite used for a short period of time (3.5 minutes) did not affect the flammability after 20 washes. High concentrations of hypochlorite used for a longer period of time (30 minutes) resulted in loss of flame retardancy after 6 washes. No morphological changes in the flame retardant fibers caused by the laundering and soaking were observed by scanning electron microscopy.
Evenness Testing of Continuous Filament Glass Yarns
Authors: Köhler K.
Published: March 2008

The presence of substantial within-package linear density variations of continuous filament glass yarn bobbins is discussed. Methods for measuring these variations are shown, and test results on some commercial yams of current production are presented.
Quantitative Determination of Indole-3 Carboxyaldehyde in Aqueous Extracts of Cotton Bracts by HPLC
Authors: Hong Y.K. , Gilbert R.D. , Fornes R.E.
Published: March 2008

A reverse phase, high performance liquid chromatbgraphy procedure for the quantification of indole-3 carboxyaldehyde in aqueous extracts of cotton bract is described. The amount of indole-3 carboxyaldehyde that could be extracted by water was 14.3 and 14.1 ppm in frost-killed (brown) and air dried green cotton bract, respectively.
Investigation of the Fine Structure and Morphology of Preswollen Indian Silk Fibers
Authors: Bhat N.V. , Ahirrao S.M.
Published: March 2008

Mulberry and tasar silk fibers were treated with formic acid, lithium thiocyanate, and zinc chloride. The fine structure of these preswollen fibers was investigated using infrared spectroscopy, x-ray diffraction, and sonic velocity. Densities were determined by means of a liquid density gradient column, and the sonic velocity was measured using a dynamic modulus tester. The surface morphology of swollen fibers was studied using electron microscopy. The x-ray and infrared crystallinity indices of fibers change due to swelling treatments, and these changes correlate to the changes in density and sonic velocity.
Comparing the Wrinkle Recovery of Cotton Fabrics: An Appraisal of AATCC Test Method 66-1978
Authors: Rippon John A.
Published: March 2008

Variations in wrinkle recovery values for untreated and treated cotton fabrics caused by unknown degrees of ageing are discussed. A method for avoiding this problem is reported which involves a wet pressing procedure and conditioning in a standard atmosphere. This method should improve the interlaboratory reproducibility of results for samples tested according to AATCC Test Method 66-1978.
Surface Frictional Resistance of Fabrics Woven from Filament Yarns
Authors: Zurek Witold , Jankowiak Danuta , Frydrych Iwona
Published: March 2008

The differences in frictional forces acting between fabrics woven from filament yarns are dependent on the morphology of the fabrics and the rubbing direction. When one fabric is moved across a second stationary fabric and the projecting yarn waves of one of the fabrics is rubbed perpendicular to the yarn axes orientation, the Howell's characteristics of frictional resistance for the fabric and yarn have similar values.
A New Catalyst System for Improved Durable Press Properties of Cotton Fabric
Authors: Pandey S.N. , Raje C.R.
Published: March 2008

A new catalyst system using DMDHEU as a crosslinking reagent to improve the durable press (DP) properties of cotton fabric is described. Cotton cellulose fabric was crosslinked with DMDHEU in the presence of mixed catalysts Al2(SO4) 3.16H2O and citric acid in constant and varying proportions. Cotton fabric was also crosslinked in the presence of a single catalyst as well as a conventional catalyst. Resin finished samples were cured at 140 and 160°C separately. Crosslinked cotton fabric and control samples were evaluated for various physicochemical properties such as resin add-on, nitrogen content, DP rating, wrinkle recovery angle, breaking strength, tearing strength, and abrasion resistance. Relationships between various properties are also discussed. Use of mixed catalyst in constant and varying proportions in the resin finishing treatment improved durable press and wear properties of fabrics compared to the samples crosslinked in the presence of a single catalyst. Fabric samples cured at 140°C showed higher strength retention and flex abrasion values compared to the samples cured at 160°C. Better results in DP ratings and physical properties were attributed to the complex formation.
Detecting a Glass Transition in Wool by Differential Scanning Calorimetry
Authors: Phillips D.G.
Published: March 2008

The use of large volume sealed stainless steel capsules has allowed the measurement of a transition temperature in wool at a range of moisture contents using differential scanning calorimetry. Aged wool showed an endothermic peak that disappeared after cooling from above the transition temperature, but was restored with subsequent ageing at ambient temperature. Similar behavior is characteristic of amorphous polymers annealed below their glass transition temperature. Moisture appeared to act as a plasticizer in wool and lowered the transition temperature. At moisture contents of 22% the transition temperature approached 35°C, and the application of this result to the formation of severe wrinkles in wool garments during wear is discussed.
New Hydrolysis Method for Total Formaldehyde Analysis in Durable Press Resins or Resin-Treated Fabrics
Authors: Kim E.A. , Yeh K. , Smith B.F.
Published: March 2008

Total formaldehyde was determined in durable press resins and resin-treated fabrics after hydrolysis in I N H2SO4 for one hour under reflux using chromotropic acid. This new hydrolysis technique gives total formaldehyde values that are closer to theoretical values and requires less time. The technique also results in higher formaldehyde values for THPOH-NH3-treated fabric and for THPS resin. Thus, the hydrolysis method may have wider applicability than durable press resins or resin- treated fabrics.
Objective Differentiation of Washed and Unwashed Cottons by Thermal Analyses
Authors: Ward T.L. , Calamari T.A. , Benerito R.R.
Published: March 2008

Washed and unwashed cottons grown in Mississippi, Texas, or California were tested by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). The effects of temperature and ratio of water to cotton in cleaning were investigated, as was the use of a scouring process. DSC detected washing readily, as exotherms for all raw cottons were replaced by endotherms for all washed samples. TGA could also detect washing primarily by measuring the amount of residue: unwashed cotton had about 50% more residue than washed cotton. Other, more subtle differences were also detected by both DSC and TGA.