bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Studies of Fabric Wear
Authors: Lamb George E.R. , Kepka Stanislaw , Miller Bernard
Published: March 2008

We have shown that it is possible to make fundamental studies of fabric/fabric self- abrasion using a simple laboratory cyclic abrader. Abrasive wear rate depends on the contact pressure between the fabrics and is also influenced by the direction of curvature in the abraded zone. A concave surface is abraded more than a convex one. The observed effect of curvature is attributed to the effective change in yam count for the yams that are perpendicular to the direction of the rubbing motion. We have also found that relaxation of tension between episodes of cyclic abrasion results in reduced wear. The results for three cotton fabrics, two of which had been treated with durable press resin formulations, were as we expected in that increased abrasion wear correlated with the level of treatment.
Kinetics of Dust Removal from Cotton by Repetitive Mechanical Cleaning
Authors: Montalvo Joseph G.
Published: March 2008

In Part I of this series, the underlying mechanism and kinetics of the process of removing dust from cotton by repetitive mechanical cleaning were proposed to fit a theoretical mathematical model defined as the decreasing-force model [12]. This paper describes the successful testing of the model against a kinetic data base produced by repetitive cleaning of cotton with a fiber blender. The fiber blender allowed for a low rate of dust removal from cotton, and so meaningful experimental data (fiber-frictional force and airborne dust concentration in the fiber matrix and in the external environ ment) were taken over a wide range of processing stages. The premise that the logarithm of the fiber-frictional force is proportional to the reciprocal of the pass number is shown experimentally (correlation coefficient r = 0.9329). Also, the premise that the logarithm of the airborne dust concentration, in the fiber matrix and in the external environment, is proportional to the logarithm of the pass number is shown experi mentally ( fiber matrix r = -0.9995, external environment r = -0.9989). Because of deviation of the data base from the ideal behavior demanded by the decreasing-force model, however, the rate constant could not be computed by the method presented in Part I.
Effect of Salt Water Immersion on the Ultimate Tensile Strength of Small Diameter Aramid Braids
Authors: Sampathkumar V. , Schwartz P.
Published: March 2008

Small diameter, 1/1 eight-end braids were fabricated using 167 tex Kevlar® 29 yams. Braids, selected at random, were immersed in either distilled or salt water for a period of 30 days and then removed for testing. Half of the samples were tested immediately upon removal, and the other half were allowed to dry at standard con ditions (21°C, 65% relative humidity) for 24 hours and then tested. In addition, another set of braids was left untreated as a control. There were no statistical differences in the strength of braids taken from either the distilled or salt water and tested wet, when compared with each other or the control. The strength of braids immersed in distilled water and tested dry showed a slight but statistically significant increase in strength, but the strength of the braids immersed in salt water and tested dry was approximately 10% lower than that of control. Individual single filaments extracted from dry, untested braids from the treatment groups and the control were subjected to tensile testing. No statistically significant differences in strength were observed between the groups, in dicating that braid strength differences were not due to filament degradation. SEM photomicrographs of dried braids that had been immersed in salt water revealed the presence of interstitial NaCl crystals and clearly showed the deformation of fibers around them. When dried, salt-bearing braids were reimmersed in water and tested wet, there was no strength reduction versus control braids.
Analysis of the Intercellular and Membrane Lipids of Wool and Other Animal Fibers
Authors: Logan Raymond I. , Rivett Donald E. , Tucker Daryl J. , Hudson Antony H.F.
Published: March 2008

We report our analysis of the sterol and fatty acid composition of wools from different breeds of sheep and from different climatic zones. The results are compared with analyses of other protein fibers. Cholesterol, desmosterol, palmitic, stearic and oleic acids account for the majority of the internal lipids in animal fibers, with the exception of human hair and fibers of the camel family. We conclude that sterol and fatty acid analyses can be a useful additional procedure to the conventional methods for distin guishing between animal fibers.
Effect of Scouring / Bleaching, Caustic Mercerization, and Liquid Ammonia Treatment on the Pore Structure of Cotton Textile Fibers
Authors: Bertoniere Noelie R. , King Walter D.
Published: March 2008

The pore structure of cotton was followed through three pretreatments that com monly precede chemical modification for imparting easy care or other functional properties. These treatments included scouring/bleaching, caustic mercerization, and a liquid ammonia treatment with removal by volatilization at elevated temperature. The results include data on the pore structure of the fiber in the greige state. A reverse gel permeation chromatographic technique was used. Columns were prepared from whole cotton fibers in the form of batting, and three series of water soluble solutes were used to study their elution characteristics. The solutes were series of oligomeric sugars, ethylene glycols, and glymes ( ethylene glycol dimethyl ethers) with molecular dimensions in the range of conventional finishing agents for cotton. Scouring/bleaching decreased the water holding capacity of the greige cotton as measured by water of imbibition, but increased it as indicated by gel permeation measurements. The internal volume accessible to water was substantially increased by caustic mercerization, but was only slightly affected by liquid ammonia treatment. The relative accessibility of the cotton fibers to molecules the size of durable press finishing agents was slightly increased by scouring/bleaching, substantially increased by caustic mercerization, but moderately reduced by liquid ammonia treatment. Accessibility to molecules near the permeability limits of the fibers followed similar trends, but differences were greater. Scouring/bleaching increased the permeability limit of the greige fibers, but subsequent mercerization or liquid ammonia treatment decreased it. There was a noteworthy difference in permeability limit and relative accessibility to large molecules. This is accounted for by a decrease in the rate of change in pore size on scouring/bleaching, but substantial increases, to generally more than double, on subsequent caustic mer cerization or liquid ammonia treatment of the scoured / bleached cotton.
Free and Hydrolytically Released Formaldehyde from DMDHEU-Finished Cotton Fabric
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Andrews B.A. Kottes
Published: March 2008

The AATCC Sealed Jar test (Method 112) uses accelerated storage conditions to determine formaldehyde released from finished fabrics. A modification of the incu bation conditions of this test has been investigated in an attempt to provide a better measure of the free formaldehyde in fabric. By incubating test specimens at 20°C instead of at 49°C as in the standard test, there is less hydrolytic degradation of the finish. These modified conditions release 90% or more of the free formaldehyde from the test specimen but minimize the contribution of hydrolytically released formal dehyde from finish degradation due to incubation conditions of the test. Reproducibility of determinations was good. Typical results from DMDHEU-finished cottons in the modified and standard tests are presented. Sequential use of the tests in various com binations provides additional insight into free and easily released formaldehyde as well as that more difficult to release.
Physicochemical Behavior of Hercosett/Anionic Surfactant Dispersion and Application on Untreated Wool to Impart Shrinkproofing
Authors: De la Maza A. , Parra J.L. , Sanchez Leal J. , Comelles F.
Published: March 2008

The physicochemical properties of dispersions made with the cationic resin Hercosett 57 and anionic surfactants have been investigated. The influence of the hydrocarbon chain and the anionic groups of surfactants has been investigated to determine the relationship between the components and their interactions. The application of resin surfactant complexes on untreated wool samples to confer shrink resistance has also been investigated.
Physicomechanical Properties of Fibers from Blends of Acrylonitrile Terpolymer and Its Hydrolyzed Products
Authors: Bajaj P. , Kumari M. Surya
Published: March 2008

Acrylonitrile terpolymer containing 92.7% acrylonitrile, 7% vinyl acetate, and 0.3% sodium methallyl sulphonate was hydrolyzed to degrees of hydrolysis of ∼0.104(T1B 1), ∼0.367 (T1B2), and ∼0.450 (T 1B3), respectively, at 40°C with 5% NaOH. Each of these polymers was blended with the parent terpolymer in a 10:90 ( w/w ) ratio and wet-spun using 45:50 (v/v) dimethyl acetamide : water, varying the spin bath tem perature from 10-60°C. The dope viscosity of the blends increased with the increase in the degree of hydrolysis of the product, which could be attributed to the bulky amide-imide groups. Spinnability was the best in a blend containing T1B3. After au toclaving, these fibers showed higher tenacity (174 kN·m/kg) and moisture regain (1.8%) compared to the parent fibers (124 kN·m/kg and 1.3%) and other blends. The influence of the bath temperature on the structure of the protofibers was also investigated.
Theory of the Shear Deformation of Fibrous Assemblies
Authors: Pan N. , Carnaby Garth A.
Published: March 2008

The initial response of the unit fibrous cell to an externally applied shear stress is assumed to involve both the bending of fiber sections and slippage at contact points. The criterion used to determine whether a contacting fiber will bend the contacted fiber section or whether it will slip along it depends on the relative angles of the two fiber sections to the external stresses. The total proportion of slipping and nonslipping contact points is thus derived using the density function of fiber orientations within the unit fibrous cell. The derived modulus values for shear behavior are related to the moduli derived earlier for compression behavior. The symmetry rules for selected idealized orientation distributions ( e.g., random) of the fibers in the unit cell provide a check on the validity of the derivations.
Photolytic Properties of Ortho-Substituted 4-[N,N-Bis(β- Hydroxyethyl)amino]azobenzenes in Polymer Substrates
Authors: Freeman H.S. , McIntosh S.A.
Published: March 2008

The synthesis of some novel derivatives of 4-[ N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)- amino]azobenzene is reported, and the effects of ortho-substituents on photoinduced trans → cis isomerism about the azo group, mass spectral behavior, and the photost ability of these dyes are described. An ortho-nitro group inhibits trans → cis photo- isomerism about the azo group and affords poor photostability. Those ortho-substituted dyes showing a greater tendency to undergo photoinduced trans → cis isomerism and recover quickly are also more photostable and less subject to rupture at the β-nitrogen- carbon bond in the mass spectrometer. The photolysis experiments were done using acetate and triacetate film and fiber, and the mass spectrometric analyses were done by direct probe using the electron-impact technique.
Estimating the Variability of PET Spun Fiber Properties Using Computer Simulation
Authors: Dutta A.
Published: March 2008

A methodology is described to predict PET spun fiber properties and their variability, both of which are critical for satisfactory spinning operations. The approach uses the freezeline stress distribution obtained from a computer simulation of multifilament melt spinning of PET fibers along with the relevant information regarding the spinneret geometry and sampling procedures to determine the most probable sample distributions and corresponding values of freezeline stress and coefficient of variation. Available correlations can then be used to predict a priori the most likely ranges of spun fiber properties and their variability for a given set of process conditions.
Hydrodynamics in Packed Textile Beds
Authors: Van Den Brekel L.D.M. , De Jong E.J.
Published: March 2008

The rate of fluid flow in fabrics is an important factor in textile finishing and cleaning processes. The overall permeability of a textile material is determined by the fluid flows in and between the yarns of a fabric. Various theoretical models are briefly presented for estimating the part played by both types of pores and for calculating permeability coefficients. The features of fluid flow in cotton and polyester cloth are inaccurately described by most models, emphasizing the need for further research into and experimental determination of the permeability of packed textile beds.
Change in Surface Properties of Fabrics During Wear
Authors: Amirbayat J. , Cooke W.D.
Published: March 2008

We describe a new method of monitoring the surface properties of textile fabrics during abrasion and give results of tests performed on 20 different samples. Further, we correlate the abrasion resistance with the surface properties, areal density, and thickness of the fabrics.
Effect of Dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea on the Properties of Cellulosic Fibers
Authors: Zeronian S.H. , Bertoniere N.R. , Alger K.W. , Duffin J.L. , Kim M.S. , Dubuque L.K. , Collins M.J. , Xie C.
Published: March 2008

We have determined the effect of dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) on the tensile properties, brittleness, and flex fatigue properties of cotton fibers before and after slack mercerization. The tensile strength and extensibility of nonmercerized fibers decrease with DMDHEU application, but there are distinct differences in the effect of mercerization on the tensile properties of the fibers depending on whether a G. barbadense or G. hirsutum sample is being studied. We explain the effects of cross linking on the tensile properties of nonmercerized and mercerized cotton in terms of current knowledge of their fine structure, and we suggest that morphology also plays an important role in determining the effect of resins on such properties. The brittleness of nonmercerized and mercerized cotton fibers as measured by the breaking twist angle (BTA) method increases as DMDHEU content increases. BTA is correlated with various tensile parameters. The correlation coefficient falls in the order extensibility > nominal rupture energy > tenacity > secant modulus. When considering the effect of resins on the tensile properties of cotton fibers, yams, or fabrics, we recommend that more attention be paid to extensibility. In general, it appears that for cotton at low DMDHEU contents, a premercerization treatment retains the flex life of the sample at a value close to that of the nonresin-treated, nonmercerized control.
Optical Anisotropy in Mohair Fibers
Authors: Fouda I.M. , El-Farahaty K.A. , El-Tonsy M.M.
Published: March 2008

The diffraction from a He-Ne laser beam was used to measure the dimensional parameters, transverse sectional shape, and area of mohair fibers. Multiple-beam Fizeau fringes in transmission, and double refracting interference microscopy (Pluta polarizing interference microscope) were used to measure the refractive indices and birefringence of the mohair. The double-beam technique was applied to determine the mean re fractive indices for plane polarized light vibrating parallel and perpendicular to the fiber axis and thus the mean birefringence. Two other recent analytical methods were employed to study the optical properties of fibers from the interference patterns pro duced by the formation of multiple-beam Fizeau fringes crossing mohair fibers. These methods were used to determine Cauchy's constants and the thermal coefficient of refractive indices of the skin and core of the mohair. A comparative study of these methods is discussed and illustrated using photomicrographs.
Morphological Changes in Wool After Solvent Extraction and Treatments in Hot Aqueous Solutions
Authors: Mansour M.P. , Jones L.N.
Published: March 2008

We have studied the morphological changes in the cell membrane complex (CMC) of fine wool fibers after extraction with chloroform / methanol, using transmission electron microscopy. Treatment of extracted fabric in boiling water resulted in mod ifications to the CMC of the cortex and degradation of the cuticle. When unextracted fibers were treated in boiling water, modification to the CMC and cellular texture was minimal and an amorphous material was deposited on the fiber surface. This material was separated from the exocuticular a-layer by a narrow unstained band, presumably the epicuticle. Extraction of internal lipids has apparently made fibers more susceptible to hydrolytic damage. These modifications follow a recent report showing that solvent- extracted fabric treated in boiling water suffered from reductions in tear strength to a greater extent than did the unextracted fabric treated under the same conditions.
Correlation Between Copolymer Characteristics, Conditions of Fiber Formation, and Mechanical Properties of PAN Carbon Fiber Precursor
Authors: Mikolajczyk Teresa , Krucinska Izabella , Kamecka-Jedrzejczak Katarzyna
Published: March 2008

We have studied the effect of intrinsic viscosity of acrylonitrile-methyl methacrylate copolymer on the structure and mechanical characteristics of polyacrylonitrile (PAN) fibers. The fiber properties are determined for different values of thermal stretch. The tensile strength and Young's modulus of PAN fibers increase as the intrinsic viscosity of the copolymer increases. The increase in intrinsic viscosity is accompanied by an increase in the content of the paracrystalline phase, the degree of ordering. and the molecular orientation.
A Method for Determining the Penetration of Reducing Agents into Wool Using Fluorescence Microscopy
Authors: Evans David J.
Published: March 2008

The fluorogenic reagent 4-(aminosulfonyl)-7-fluoro-2,1,3-benzoxadiazole (ABD- F) has been used to label thiol groups in partially reduced wool fibers. In fibers in which 10% of the disulfide bonds were reduced with either dithiothreitol or tributyl phosphine, up to 66% of the thiol groups were specifically labeled in 2 hours at pH 8. The extent of the labeling was determined by analysis of ABD-labeled wool for cysteine- S-ABD. Specificity of labeling was confirmed by comparing the amino acid analyses of untreated wool with reduced wool before and after treatment with ABD-F. Fibers were reduced with a variety of reducing agents, and sections were examined by fluo rescence microscopy. From the distribution of the fluorescence. reduction was largely confined to the outer regions of the fiber for 10% reduction at pH 9 (40°C, 30 minutes) with dithiothreitol, tributylphosphine, and tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)-phosphonium chloride. With sodium thioglycollate, however, there was more even penetration of the fibers under the same conditions. The application of this method is discussed for assessing the effect of reducing agents used in conjunction with polymer shrink-resist treatments.
Pilling, Abrasion, and Tensile Properties of Fabrics from Open-End and Ring Spun Yarns 1
Authors: Paek Soae L.
Published: March 2008

This study investigates the flex abrasion, stress-strain, and pilling performance of test fabrics woven from open-end and ring spun yams. The propensity of test fabrics to pilling is evaluated after repeated exposure to random tumble pilling (RTP) and the elastomeric pad method (EPM), using scanning electron micrographs. The as sociation between the pilling and other performance properties of test fabrics is also investigated. The SEM results reveal that the degree of pilling and fiber fracture on test samples after specified test intervals is influenced by yarn types and the pilling machines themselves. The first test interval produces a few fiber pull-outs but little pilling. The second interval produces flaking and transverse cracking of fibers and fuzz assemblies. The last two test intervals produce more extensive fiber fractures and fiber entanglements. The mean abrasion, tensile strength, elongation, and pill ratings of the test samples woven from two kinds of yarns are compared using t-tests. In all groups, the test samples woven from ring spun yams for both fabric directions out- perform open-end yams in flex abrasion and filling tenacity. The association between pill ratings and other performance properties investigated indicates that RTP ratings are positively related and EPM pill ratings are negatively related to abrasion and tenacity.
High Pressure Squeezing in Sizing : Performance of Cotton Yarn
Authors: Hari P.K. , Behera B.K. , Prakash Jai , Dhawan K.
Published: March 2008

Cotton yarn (40 Ne) was sized at squeeze pressures of 22 and 33.8 daN/cm2 (cor responding to 5 and 25 daN/cm) on a laboratory sizing machine. The weaving per formance of yam sized at the high pressure was better than the yarn sized at the low pressure. This improvement is attributed to increased size penetration, greater packing density, and more uniform cross sections of the sized yam.
Correlation Between Copolymer Characteristics, Conditions of Fiber Formation, and Mechanical Properties of PAN Carbon Fiber Precursor
Authors: Mikołajczyk Teresa , Krucińska Izabella , Kamecka-Jędrzejczak Katarzyna
Published: March 2008

Our aim in this study was to find the optimum temperature of thermal drawing and stabilization at values of deformation lower than the maximum values in order to keep fiber structural defects to a minimum. Fibers with the best mechanical properties were obtained when the drawing process was done at 185°C and the stabilization temperature was 210°C.
Physicochemical Properties of Hercosett / Optical Brightener Agent Dispersions Applied to Untreated Wool for Shrinkproofing
Authors: De La Maza A. , Parra J.L. , Leal J. Sanchez , Comelles F.
Published: March 2008

Hercosett resin was applied to untreated wool samples using dispersions made with a cationic Hercosett resin and different optical brightener agents in order to improve both brightness and shrinkproofing properties. The brighteners used in this work were Blankophor BA liq B, Uvitex CF-200, Univtex NFW, and Uvitex WGS. The physi cochemical properties of the dispersion systems were also investigated.
Sorption of Synthappret BAP by Wool and Its Effect on Abrasion Resistance
Authors: Cook J.R. , Fleischfresser B.E. , Leeder J.D. , Rippon J.A.
Published: March 2008

Diffusion of large polymeric molecules into wool fibers is confirmed. Penetration occurs through the nonkeratinous regions, similar to dye diffusion, and indicates that selective modification of the mechanical properties of these regions is possible using this technique. Micrographs of affected sections of treated and untreated wool subjected to Martindale abrasion testing show that treated, cured wool has improved resistance to abrasion.
Characterization of the Structural Integrity of Air-Jet Textured Yarns
Authors: Sengupta A.K. , Kothari V.K. , Alagirusamy R.
Published: March 2008

We have developed a method to characterize the stability of air textured yams with repeated load testing using an Instron tensile tester. We compare the instability values obtained with other methods with those using this method. We also assess the influence of process variables such as overfeed, air pressure, dry and wet texturing, and heat stabilization on the structural integrity of air textured yams with the different methods. We have observed that the test method that uses recovery from a given load as a criterion for yarn instability provides a more realistic assessment of structural integrity than the method that uses an extension percentage at a given load.
Yarn Tension as a Function of Extension: A New Approach— Application to an Ideal Twisted Multifilament Yarn
Authors: Nachane R.P.
Published: March 2008

Using an approach giving yarn tension as a function of extension, which was de veloped in an earlier publication, formulas are derived for load, extension, and initial specific modulus of an ideal twisted multifilament yarn in terms of the properties of the component filaments. Experimental data on a few twisted multifilament yarn assemblies agree better with the predictions of these formulas than those reported earlier in the literature.
Electron Microscopical Analysis of Selected Dye Carriers Within Poly ( ethylene Terephthalate ) Fibers
Authors: Ravichandran V. , Obendorf S.K.
Published: March 2008

Carrier/ solvent pretreatment of poly ( ethylene terephthalate) (PET) prior to dyeing is an alternative to conventional carrier dyeing. Carrier penetration of the fiber and diffusion of the dye into the fiber are believed to be interrelated phenomena, even though there is little direct evidence that the carrier is being absorbed by the fiber. High resolution techniques of scanning electron microscopy and energy dispersive x- ray analysis were used to determine the location of the selected dye carriers, salicylic acid and anthranilic acid, within carrier/solvent pretreated PET fibers. Measurements of relative carrier concentration in and around the fiber revealed the presence of a significant quantity of carrier on the fiber surface, but smaller amounts of carrier had penetrated the fiber.
Interferometric Studies of Optical Anisotropy and Radial Differences in Orientation in Polymer Fibers
Authors: Hamza A.A. , Kabeel M.A. , Shahin M.M.
Published: March 2008

Mathematical formulas are derived for the shape of two-beam interference fringes crossing a cylindrical multilayer fiber, as well as an equation to determine the mean refractive index at any point along the diameter of the fiber. Radial birefringence of a cylindrical fiber is also reported. The derived mathematical formulas are applied to determine the variation of the refractive indices and birefringence at any point along the diameter of two polypropylene samples with draw ratios of 4 and 5.2. Refractive index values, when light vibrates parallel and perpendicular to the fiber axis, and birefringence are larger at the edges than at the bulk of the fiber. The Lorentz-Lorenz equation is applied to calculate the polarizability of the polymer material per unit volume at different points along the diameter of the fiber. The results are illustrated by microinterferograms.
Comparison of DREF-3 Cotton Yarns Produced by Varying Yarn Core Ratios and Feed Rates
Authors: Kimmel Linda B. , Sawhney A.P.S.
Published: March 2008

This study evaluated yams produced on the DREF-3 friction spinning machine using varying core inlet sliver linear densities and output yam core proportions. A long staple, medium micronaire, Acala cotton was spun into 74, 54, and 45 tex yams at constant spinning drum and outlet speeds. Inlet sliver of 1.77, 2.47, and 3.18 ktex linear densities was supplied to the yam core at rates required to produce yams con taining between 40 and 70% core. To make yams of the same size and core ratio, lighter core sliver had to be supplied at faster inlet speeds or heavier core sliver at slower speeds. Using lighter core sliver at greater inlet speeds improved yam strength and evenness. Among these, coarser yams and those with higher core ratios showed better uniformity. Yarns supplied by lightweight core sliver showed similar elongation; those supplied by heavyweight core sliver showed more variation over the range of core ratios.
Texturing of Thermoplastic Yarns
Authors: Li Shipeng , Backer Stanley , Griffith Peter
Published: March 2008

A thermal model of yam during texturing with condensation heating has been developed so as to predict yam temperature response. Yarn temperature rise during the condensation heating process is dictated by the internal conduction of the yarn and hardly varies with the surface heat transfer coefficient. On the other hand, the cooling effect due to evaporation upon threadline emergence from the high pressure steam chamber depends on the final thickness of the condensate layer, which is a function of yarn speed. Yarn speed also has a considerable effect on the rate of tem perature decrease during the convective cooling processes. Measurements of yarn tem perature in the cooling zone of the experimental false twist process are in good agree ment with predictions. Yarn quality is also consistent with the temperature history of the yarn.
Three-Dimensional Pattern Drafting
Authors: Heisey Francesann , Brown Peter , Johnson Robert F.
Published: March 2008

An algorithm for computationally drafting garment patterns from three-dimensional data is presented. A functional relationship for the garment definition step of an earlier theoretical framework is developed for a basic skirt. The three-dimensional form of an individually fitted skirt is modeled using this relationship and then projected, using the method developed in Part I, to produce a two-dimensional pattern. Previously reported methods for drafting garment patterns from three-dimensional data have combined the garment definition and projection steps; this has restricted the form of the garment that can be produced. In our method, the only factors that place restrictions on the form of the garment are the physical characteristics of the fabric from which the garment will be sewn, the figuration of the body, and the cultural definition of the garment.
Effects of Microwave Irradiation on Attagenus Unicolor (Brahm) (Coleoptera: Dermestidae) and the Physical and Chemical Properties of Wool
Authors: Dever Maureen , Hanson Patricia , Bry Roy E. , Aleong John
Published: March 2008

A nonchemical method is reported for the disinfestation of all life stages of the black carpet beetle Attagenus unicolor (Brahm) on wool. This method is based on microwave irradiation using a 2.54 GHz frequency multimode microwave oven op erating at full power (1580 AC watts). All life stages (egg, larva, pupa, and adult) of the black carpet beetle were exposed to microwaves. The results showed that two minutes of microwave exposure was sufficient to kill (100% mortality) all life stages with minimal effects on the physical and chemical properties of the wool.
Comparison of Fabrics Made with Cotton Covered Polyester Staple-Core Yarn and 100% Cotton Yarn
Authors: Sawhney A.P.S. , Harper R.J. , Ruppenicker G.F. , Robert K.Q.
Published: March 2008

Cotton covered/polyester staple-core yams [6, 8], recently developed at the Southern Regional Research Center, and conventional 100% cotton yarns of equivalent size were woven and knitted into various fabrics for evaluation. The woven fabrics were tested for abrasion resistance and tear and tensile strengths. The knitted fabrics were tested for bursting strength, air permeability, pilling resistance, dimensional stability, and DP rating (after a light application of DP finish on the heat set fabric). The staple- core yams, which were only modestly stronger than equivalent 100% cotton yams, produced fabrics remarkably improved in all the important properties when compared to the fabrics made with conventional 100% cotton yams. Fabrics from staple-core yams should therefore be useful where strength, weight, durability, abrasion resistance, dimensional stability, easy care, and comfort are desirable or critical.
Effects of Mechanical Cleaning on Cotton Fibers
Authors: Bel P.D. , Columbus E.P. , Bragg C.K. , Robert K.Q.
Published: March 2008

Smooth leaf and hairy leaf Midsouth cottons were processed through minimum, two intermediate, and maximum gin cleanings. Based on fiber measurements after mill cleaning, minimum gin cleaning yielded the best fiber quality ( i.e., length, low short fiber content). Fiber damage as a result of maximum gin cleaning was evident through all levels of mill cleaning. There were also differences in nonlint content as a result of cleaning machinery and cotton varieties.
Shrink-Resist Treatments for Wool Using Multifunctional Epoxides
Authors: Umehara Ryo , Shibata Yutaka , Ito Hiraku , Sakamoto Munenori , Miyamoto Takeaki
Published: March 2008

An attempt was made to render wool fibers shrinkproof without causing any damage to the hydrophobic nature of the scale surface. To this end, wool fibers were treated with a water soluble multifunctional epoxide, i.e., glycerol polyglycidyl ether (GPE) in concentrated salt solutions, where the prominence of scale edges was depressed. The role of GPE is not to chemically modify the fiber surface, but to crosslink the cuticular cells to prevent their edges from prominence in aqueous media. Excellent shrink resistance can be imparted to wool by applying GPE in saturated NaCl solution in the presence of a reductive agent such as Na2S2O5, while the hydrophobic nature of the surface remains unchanged.
Geometry and Mechanics of the Buckling Wrinkle in Fabrics
Authors: Shinohara Akira , Ni Qing-Qing , Takatera Masayuki
Published: March 2008

The wrinkling of garments is analyzed by deforming a fabric cylinder in axial compression. The buckling process and characteristics of such a cylinder in axial compression are explained in detail. It is obvious that the buckling pattern generated in knitted fabrics is different from that in woven fabrics: the pattern in knitted fabrics is of the bellows type, while that in woven fabric is usually of the diamond type. For the knitted fabric, the length of the wave of the bellows is calculated according to orthotropic and anisotropic theory. For the woven fabric, the buckling pattern is con structed by lobes, which are simply classified into three kinds; the pattern can be expressed by three parameters and the formulas derived for them. The results of com parison between the Yoshimura buckle pattern and the buckling pattern of a fabric will be useful for apparel design.
Part II: Buckling Model of a Woven Fabric Cylinder in Axial Compression
Authors: Shinohara Akira , Ni Qing-Qing , Takatera Masayuki
Published: March 2008

A mathematical model is proposed to describe the buckling deformation of a fabric cylinder in axial compression. The buckling characteristics of lobes are observed in detail. The deformed surface of a woven fabric in a lobe is complex and different from that of the Yoshimura buckle pattern, and it can be represented by two groups of contour hyperbolas, which can be determined by boundary conditions for any lobe ratio. The mathematical model is simulated and its suitability discussed. The buckling pattern with specified lobe ratio can be predicted, and many characteristics of the buckling pattern are understood with the use of three-dimensional graphics.
Thermal Analysis of Chemically Treated Jute Fibers
Authors: Pandey S.N. , Day A. , Mathew M.D.
Published: March 2008

DSC and TGA studies were made of jute fibers treated with a flame retardant formulation, borax-formaldehyde-sodium hydrosulphite. DSC thermograms were ob tained in both nitrogen and air atmospheres and TGA thermograms in nitrogen at mosphere. A thermal analysis was also made of fibers treated with borax alone. A comparison of thermograms for treated fibers with that of the control showed differences in the characteristic peak patterns due to the flame retardant treatment. The acquired flame retardancy of jute is explained on the basis of both the DSC and TGA analyses.
Yarn Twisting Dynamics
Authors: Miao Menghe , Chen Renzhe
Published: March 2008

To describe the dynamic process of a yarn twisting system, two conditions, kinematic and kinetic, are usually required. In this paper, general equations of twisting dynamics are derived. When combined, these equations can represent the propagation of twist in a traveling yam, and their solutions can give interesting insights into some classical problems.
Fumaric Acid as an Adhesion Promoter in Rayon/Nylon Composite Fibers
Authors: Tao W.Y. , Collier J.R. , Collier B.J. , Negulescu I.I.
Published: March 2008

Rayon/nylon skin/core composite fibers with enhanced adhesion were produced using a wire coating process. After spin finish removal by water washing, the nylon core fibers were pretreated with fumaric acid ( FA ) as an adhesion promoter and then coated with viscose rayon. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy was used to identify the chemical bonds formed between FA and both rayon and nylon. The results indicate that carboxyl groups of FA reacted with amine end groups of nylon, forming amide bonds. Other carboxyl ends of FA reacted with hydroxyl groups of rayon, forming ester bonds. Due to the formation of these bonds, the interfacial adhesion in the composite fibers significantly improved under specific sets of application conditions.
Effect of pH on Nonformaldehyde Durable Press Finishing of Cotton Fabric: FT-IR Spectroscopy Study
Authors: Yang Charles Q.
Published: March 2008

When the three sodium salts of phosphoric acid were used as catalysts for the ester crosslinking of cotton cellulose, they showed different levels of effectiveness due to the different pH values of the finish baths. In this research, the effect of finish bath pH on the esterification of cotton cellulose by 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) was investigated using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR). FT- IR data indicated that the esterification by polycarboxylic acids is pH-dependent. When a cotton fabric was finished with BTCA without a catalyst, both the number of ester linkages formed in the fabric and the effectiveness of the bonded BTCA mol ecules first increased, then decreased as the pH of the finish bath increased from 1.5 to 5.5. An optimum pH range for esterification was determined. A similar phenomenon also occurred when a catalyst (phosphate or hypophosphite) was used. Therefore, it is necessary to choose the optimum pH range of a finish bath in order to achieve the most effective esterification.
Surface Modification of Polypropylene Fabrics by Acrylonitrile Cold Plasma
Authors: Sarmadi A. Majid , Ying T.H. , Denes Ferencz
Published: March 2008

Polypropylene fabrics were extracted with carbontetrachloride and acetone by Soxhlet extraction, and then PPAN ( plasma polymerized acrylonitrile ) was grafted to the surface of the extracted fabrics using a ground pressure of 0.05 mm Hg, 0.3 mm Hg pressure in the reactor, 60 W and 100 W RF power, and reaction times of 30 seconds, 1, 3, and 5 minutes. ESCA analysis was used to determine the ratios of carbon, nitrogen, and oxygen at a 20 Å sampling depth. IR and ATR-IR were used to obtain information on the structure of the grafted surface. Major differences were detected in the IR spectra of PPAN in comparison to PAN. The spectra of deposited polymers indicated the loss of —C≡N functional groups. Dehydrogenation and in tramolecular reorganization involving =C=N— and =C =C = also occurred, and as reaction time increased, the level of structural changes increased. Longer reaction periods and higher power resulted in increased deposition rates. Studying the water uptake and dyeability of PPAN revealed that higher treatment times lead to higher water uptake and K/S values. The nature of the substrate (Pyrex glass, KBr pellet, and polypropylene fabric) did not have a significant influence on the structure of deposited films.
Fiber Cross-Sectional Shape Analysis Using Image Processing Techniques
Authors: Xu B. , Pourdeyhimi B. , Sobus J.
Published: March 2008

. Quantitative characterization of fiber cross sections has attracted considerable in terlst, since cross-sectional size and shape have an important impact on the physical and mechanical properties of fibers, as well as the performance of end-use products. We present one application of automated measurement using image processing tech niques that extract basic shape features from fiber cross sections. Cross-sectional shapes are characterized with the aid of geometric and Fourier descriptors. Geometric de scriptors measure attributes such as area, roundness, and ellipticity. Fourier descriptors are derived from the Fourier series for the cumulative angular function of the cross- sectional boundary and are used to characterize shape complexity and other geometric attributes. Shape reconstruction based on Fourier coefficients is also discussed. We present the results of shape analysis for a wide variety of fiber types.
Dyeing Behavior of Cu(II)-Wool Complex Fibers Pretreated with Hydrogen Peroxide
Authors: Fukatsu Kazuhiko
Published: March 2008

The dyeing rate and equilibrium dye uptake by Cu(II)-wool complex fibers pre treated with hydrogen peroxide were examined to elucidate the treatment's structural effect on individual histological components of intact wool fibers. A comparison of the relationships between relative dye uptake ( C t/C∞) and the square root of the dyeing time ( t1/2) for different weight losses in the fibers revealed considerable differ ences in the initial dyeing behavior between the Cu(II)-wool complex fibers pretreated with hydrogen peroxide. There were differences in the slope of the line and the negative intercept of the extrapolated straight line at t = 0. Apparently, the surface barrier effect in dyeing was diminished by the hydrogen peroxide treatment. This treatment is be lieved to affect individual histological components of wool fibers and to promote acid dye penetration into them.
Factors Influencing Steady-State Heat and Water Vapor Transfer Measurements for Clothing Materials
Authors: Gibson P.W.
Published: March 2008

Several techniques exist to evaluate the water vapor transport characteristics of clothing materials. The most common techniques include guarded hot plate sweating skin simulants and cup-type moisture vapor transmission rate tests. Theoretically, all such tests measure an identical property, water vapor resistance, but the results from different test methods rarely agree. The reasons for the discrepancies are the different conditions present in each test: in some cases the intrinsic properties of the materials are altered by the test conditions. The results of three studies illustrate important factors to be considered when evaluating the thermal and moisture vapor transport properties of textile materials. Each study concentrates on one particular aspect of the problems encountered in measuring relative performance characteristics of these ma terials. The first study involves an experimental correlation between two kinds of water vapor permeability tests. The second study looks at the influence of air per meability on heat and water vapor transport through woven and nonwoven fabrics. The final study determines the agreement between three different guarded hot plate (sweating skin simulant) test facilities that differ mainly in the air velocity over the test samples.
A Model for the Mechanical Properties of the α-Keratin Cortex
Authors: Feughelman M.
Published: March 2008

Chemical and structural analysis of low and high sulphur protein extracts from α- keratin fibers has indicated that the low sulphur protein represents the protein of the microfibrils with its organized α-helical structure. Further, the high sulphur protein, together in some α-keratins with high glycine tyrosine protein, is the matrix protein. This latter protein, because of its high proportion of hydrophobic residues and covalent crosslinks of the diamino acid cystine, exists as a globular protein formed in the moist environment of the growing cortical cell. The matrix in a wet α-keratin fiber consists of water together with the globular high sulphur protein. The water acts as a continuous three-dimensional polymer network outside the globular matrix protein, interacting with the hydrophilic residues on the surface of the protein. From these observations, a simple microfibril-matrix model of the cortex of α-keratin fibers is proposed. This model quantitatively predicts the mechanical stiffening of a fiber being extended in water from the yield to post-yield regions of the load-extension curve. The prediction is obtained by two independent approaches that give similar results. The success of this model suggests that in considering the structural state of the cortex of α-keratin fibers, the biological origin, the chemical data such as amino acid residue sequences, and the physical measurements as applied for standard polymers need to be more dosely considered.
Effects of Geometry on the Flow Characteristics and Texturing Performance of Air-Jet Texturing Nozzles
Authors: Versteeg H.K. , Bilgin S. , Acar M.
Published: March 2008

Air-jet texturing is a versatile process for producing a range of synthetic yarns with a spun-like appearance, which are widely used for apparel and furnishing fabrics and industrial textiles. There is no universal nozzle capable of processing any supply yam of any linear density. The role played by nozzle geometry is still not fully understood. The experimental study presented here seeks to compare air flow characteristics and texturing data for nine nozzles under realistic texturing conditions as a basis for an improved understanding of the effect of nozzle geometry. Compressed air consumption results show that the nozzle flow is choked at air inlets; thus the nozzles behave as converging-diverging passages. The exit flow distribution is approximately axisym metric in all cases. Nozzle exit flow characteristics are typical of underexpanded jets with a ratio of jet exit plane static pressure to ambient pressure smaller than or equal to approximately 2. Textured yams with varying visual appearance were produced by different nozzles under identical processing conditions. Nevertheless, the strength properties of the yams were broadly the same, as was their increase in linear density. Of all test variables, the tension in the stabilizing zone was the only quantity to show some promise as a correlating parameter with texturing quality. Neither the presence of shock waves in the exit region nor the magnitude of the exit zone velocity correlated with texturing effectiveness. The texturing results of these trials highlight the fact that the current descriptions of air-jet texturing are not fully capable of explaining the subtle effects due to nozzle geometry and can at best be described as incomplete.
A Computer-Aided Grading System for Both Basic Block and Adapted Clothing Patterns
Authors: Liu Z. , Harlock S.C.
Published: March 2008

Computerized pattern grading makes the grading process fast, more consistent, and more reliable than traditional manual grading. However, existing computerized grading systems still require manual calculation of grade rules and then entry into data files. This series of papers describes an automatic method for grading both basic block patterns and adapted patterns, which obviates the need for this. The concept and format of the grade rule data file, which is fundamental to pattern grading, is described in this first part of the series.
Measuring Structural Characteristics of Fiber Segments in Nonwoven Fabrics
Authors: Bugao Xu  , Ting Yu-Liang
Published: March 2008

This paper describes the image analysis techniques used for measuring structural characteristics of fiber or fiber bundle segments in a thin nonwoven fabric. The mea surable characteristics include length, thickness, curl, and orientation of fiber segments. A new skeletonization algorithm for extracting the simplified structure from a non woven image is developed. Thickness of fiber segments is calculated directly in the process of skeletonizing the web, while the length, orientation, and curl of fiber segments are measured in the skeletonized image. Fiber segments are identified and measured by tracing skeletons between any two adjacent intersecting points. For a curled segment, the best-fitting line is used to calculate its orientation angle. Several nonwoven fabrics are tested, and the results are compared with those measured by other methods. This image system enables the users to obtain comprehensive measurements on fiber seg ments in a single procedure.