bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Decoupling Fabrics in Alignment from Deflection Disturbances
Authors: Huang Chang-Chiun , Chen Chong-Jei
Published: March 2008

A procedure is proposed for decoupling fabric in alignment during processing from all possible deflection disturbances. The dynamics of lateral deflection for a two-span system is mathematically described and refined to compensate for modeling errors through a parameter estimation algorithm. A disturbance decoupling problem with stability (DOPS) is adopted to eliminate the effect of deflection disturbances on a fabric that is to be fed into a process machine in a desired alignment, while the resulting closed-loop system is stable. The simulation results demonstrate that DDPS enables the fabric to stay in alignment by both shifting and swiveling a guiding roller.
Mechanical Strength of Durable Press Finished Cotton Fabric
Authors: Yang Charles Q. , Weishu Wei  , Lickfield Gary C.
Published: March 2008

Durable press finishing processes are commonly used in the textile industry to produce wrinkle-free cotton fabrics by crosslinking cotton cellulose. The most common crosslink ing agents are formaldehyde-based N-methylol reagents, such as dimethyloldihydroxyl ethyleneurea (DMDHEU). In recent years, multifunctional carboxylic acids have been employed as nonformaldehyde durable press finishing agents. In this research, we use a multiple angle laser light scattering photometer to measure the change in cellulose molecular weight as a result of cotton cellulose depolymerization caused by a polycar boxylic acid, a Lewis acid used as a catalyst for DMDHEU, or their combination. Cellulose depolymerization takes place on the fabric treated with a polycarboxylic acid or a Lewis acid. The combination of Lewis and polycarboxylic acids as an "activated" catalyst for DMDHEU causes more severe cellulose depolymerization. Our results indicate a direct correlation between tensile strength loss of the treated cotton and the molecular weight of cellulose.
Volume Porosity of Woven Fabrics
Authors: Dubrovski Polona Dobnik
Published: March 2008

A new experimental model based on the geometric parameters of a woven structure's yarn linear density and fabric tightness has been developed to predict the volume porosity of woven fabrics. The experimental model is based on a factor analysis. Experiments involve fabrics made from staple yams, but the mathematical model of volume porosity can also be applied to fabrics made from mono- or multifilament yarns. The experimental results of volume porosity correspond very well with calculated values according to the proposed equation.
Woven Fabric Quality Evaluation Using Image Analysis
Authors: Sakaguchi Akio , Kim Hyungsup , Matsumoto Yo-Ichi , Toriumi Koichiro
Published: March 2008

As a factor important to fabric quality, reed marks are studied by theoretical and experimental methods. In order to analyze their appearance, the power spectrum of a fabric's image is simulated in terms of that fabric's geometry. These power spectra offer peaks of wavelength coincident with the reed spacing. Further, they are used as an indicator to explain reed marks in terms of packed warps. At this same wavelength in experimental power spectra, there is also a peak that exhibits dependence on fabric quality. This peak adequately describes the appearance of the reed marks and thus can be used as a quality indicator for a woven fabric.
Dyeing Properties of a Polyester Ultrafine Fiber
Authors: Nakamura Takashi , Bommu Rama R. , Kamshi Youichi , Shibusawa Takao
Published: March 2008

Dyeing properties of a polyester taffeta made from ultrafine fibers (0.07 denier) with disperse dyes are clarified through an analysis of sorption isotherms and rate of dye sorption data in comparison with those for microfibers (0.25, 0.32, and 0.44 denier). Ultrafine fibers are made using sea-island-type conjugate spinning techniques, while the microfibers are made by the conventional melt spinning method. Physical properties of the ultrafine fibers relating to the dyeing properties are also measured. The sorption-diffusion behavior of purified disperse dyes in the 0.07 denier (0.07d) fibers at 95°C and the physical properties of these fibers are almost the same as those of the microfibers, except for the 0.25 denier (0.25d) fiber, which contains 0.5% additives to facilitate spinning. Therefore, ultrafine fibers can be dyed by considering only the difference in the fiber radius. Two polyester taffetas are used to measure dyeing kinetics, i.e., 0.07d fibers and 0.25d fibers. Delay of dye sorption at the initial stage is appreciable for the 0.07d taffeta with purified dyes at 95°C and the 0.07d and 0.25d taffetas with commercial dyes at 120°C. This phenomenon is explained in terms of the presence of diffusional boundary layers around the individual filaments caused by the very slow movement of dye liquor through the taffetas. Color yields of the commercial dyes on the two taffetas are discussed.
Treating Denim Fabrics with Trichoderma Reesei Cellulases
Authors: Heikinheimo L. , Buchert J. , Miettinen-Oinonen A. , Suominen P.
Published: March 2008

Cellulases are widely used to age denim fabrics. In this work the effects of three purified monocomponent cellulases, EG I, EG II, and CBH I, and two different cellulase mixtures produced by genetically modified strains of Trichoderma reesei are compared for stone washing denim fabrics. Stone washing effects are evaluated by analyzing the soluble reducing sugars, absorbance, and lightness values of the treatment solutions. The prop erties of denim swatches are evaluated by reflectance units and by a panel. Purified cellulase EG II is most effective at removing color from denim, producing a good stone washing effect with the lowest hydrolysis level. Treatment with CBH I does not produce any stone washing effect, even at high enzyme dosages. The commercial cellulase Ecostone® L produces a good stone washing effect, but the experimental cellulase mixture Cellulase B removes color only with the highest enzyme dosage, i.e., when the amount of EGS in the mixture is high enough.
Fiber Feeding onto the Yarn Tail in Friction Spinning
Authors: Merati Ali Akbar , Okamura Masaaki
Published: March 2008

The divergent channel in friction spinning causes fiber deceleration and inferior orientation in the transport channel. A convergent channel is designed, and the properties of yarns made by it are compared with conventional channel yams. The position of the convergent transport channel relative to the suction slit is a very important factor in improving yarn properties. The results of our research show that yams made by the convergent channel positioned 15 mm from the beginning of the suction slit are the strongest. The mechanical properties and structural parameters of friction-spun yams made by conventional and convergent channels are investigated at various suction air pressures. The results clearly indicate that the strength of yams made by the convergent channel is about 22% higher with no significant difference in elongation compared with yams made by the conventional channel at a suction air pressure of 2000 mmAq. Yarn twist at the various suction air pressures has no significant impact on yarns made by the two channels, meaning that the convergent channel provides the same twist efficiency as the conventional channel. We also find that yarns made by the convergent channel have a higher proportion of long effective fiber lengths and a lower proportion of short effective fiber lengths in which the total fiber extent is about 54.1 % compared to about 48.6% for conventional channel yams. We conclude that the superior strength of yarn made by the convergent channel is due to differences in its structure.
Kinetics of Enzymatic Hydrolysis of Lyocell Fibers
Authors: Valldeperas J. , Carrillo F. , Lis M.J. , Navarro J.A.
Published: March 2008

Treating Lyocell fibers with cellulases has become an indispensable step in dyeing and finishing these fibers, even though the effectiveness and influence of such treatment can only be evaluated qualitatively. This paper presents a quantitative evaluation of the effect of cellulases on Tencel fibers and studies the influence of initial concentration and treatment time. Results are then used to establish a mathematical model that relates the level of attack with concentration and time.
Sensory Measurements of the Main Mechanical Parameters of Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Alimaa D. , Matsuo T. , Nakajima M. , Takahashi M.
Published: March 2008

Mechanical parameters such as bending rigidity, thickness, compressibility, and coef ficient of friction are measured by a sensory method for a series of plain and rib weft knitted structures made from cashmere and polyester textured yarns. The values estimated by the sensory method are found to be in fairly good agreement with the values measured on the KES system. The results of our work indicate that by using a standard and controlling the handling manner, sensory assessments can be as successfully quantified as instrumental measurements. However, detectable differences in each mechanical param eter vary with the sensory assessment, depending on the property being considered. The sensory measurement of fabric thickness yields the most consistent and accurate results. Other parameters such as the bending rigidity, compressibility, and coefficient of friction are also reasonably estimated. In addition, the effectiveness of the sensory measurements is also discussed in terms of knit construction and fiber type.
Determining Mechanical Properties of Yarns and Two-Ply Cords from Single-Filament Data
Authors: Zimliki David A. , Kennedy John M. , Hirt Douglas E. , Reese Glen P.
Published: March 2008

The objective of this research is to construct a computer model that can predict the properties of flat yams, twisted yams, and twisted cords from single-filament data. In this model, a modulus versus strain curve is obtained by taking the derivative of the average stress-strain curve from single-filament tensile tests. The distribution of elongation to break is then fit to a Gaussian curve and a relationship is derived between filament elongation and bundle elongation in a twisted structure. Using the principle of conserva tion of energy, the forces from the surviving filaments at a specific strain are summed to yield the resulting force on a ply, which is then used to calculate the tensile force on the cord. The model also predicts elongation to break, tenacity at break, and initial modulus of yams and cords.
Physical Properties of Pneumatically Spliced Cotton Ring Spun Yarns
Authors: Cheng K.P.S. , Lam H.L.I.
Published: March 2008

The overall properties of yams spliced under different splicing conditions are investi gated, including strength, bending, abrasion, and appearance. A statistical model that helps to predict the overall properties of the splices under different splicing and yam parameters is established, and the optimum splicing conditions (optimizing both the splicer and the yam parameters) are investigated. The results also indicate that yam linear density is the parameter that has the most important effect on the overall properties of spliced yams.
Objective Evaluation of Textural Changes in Knitted Fabrics by Laser Triangulation
Authors: Sirikasemlert A. , Tao X.
Published: March 2008

The paper reports our recent development of an objective evaluation system for characterizing textural changes in knitted fabrics during simulated wear. The textural changes under investigation are categorized into three aspects—pilling, fuzzing, and changes in the constituent yams. Three-dimensional profiles of knitted fabrics are obtained by scanning the fabric surfaces using a laser triangulation technique. Two-dimensional Fourier analysis and wavelet analysis are introduced as new analytical tools for objec tively evaluating surface textural changes. Fourteen quantitative parameters are investi gated for their correlation with subjective assessments and the appropriate ones are selected to characterize textural changes.
A Predictive Model for the Fabric-to-Yarn Bending Stiffness Ratio of a Plain-Woven Set Fabric
Authors: Lomov S.V. , Truevtzev A.V. , Cassidy C.
Published: March 2008

A model for woven fabric behavior in bending is formulated based on a representation of fabric deformation as a coordinate transformation. The model is essentially based on previously published assumptions of yarn behavior but provides predictions closer to real fabric properties. It uses the energy approach for mechanical problems of textiles and employs a polynomial approximation of the thread shape. The mathematically subtle contact problem of yarns within a fabric can be turned into a more general consideration of yarn compression, and this can be investigated by independent, practical experimen tation. Comparison with previously published experimental data for a variety of thread types and fabric parameters shows reasonable agreement between predicted and measured bending stiffness of plain woven fabric.
Dynamic Heat and Water Transfer Through Layered Fabrics
Authors: Fohr J.P. , Couton D. , Treguier G.
Published: March 2008

A model of heat and water transfer through layered fabrics, such as wearing clothing, is developed in this paper. All particular properties of recently developed fabrics are considered: hydrophobic or hydrophilic treatment, membranes glued onto a layer. and surface modification of the textile (abrading). Physical phenomena taken into account are sorption or desorption; free water condensation or evaporation: liquid. vapor, and ad sorbed water diffusion; and heat conduction and contact resistances between layers. The model is dynamic for one-dimensional transfers. Considering this particular porous medium, the energy and mass balance lead to a system of two differential equations (moisture, temperature). The validity of the model is examined in light of basic experi ments existing in the literature. The hygroscopic character of a fabric can be expressed by a diffusion coefficient, which is a function of the water content. Two possible formulations of this property are given.
Online Characterization of Fabric Compressional Behavior
Authors: Huang Wensheng , Ghosh Tushar K.
Published: March 2008

The response of a fabric to applied forces normal to its plane is known as fabric compres sional behavior. It is one of the important properties that determine fabric performance in many applications. A system used to measure fabric compressional characteristics, online is pro posed in this paper. A controllable nip formed by a pair of rollers is employed to apply compressional deformation to a moving fabric while the compression force and displacement are continuously recorded. The influence of various system parameters on the sensitivity of the system is analyzed. An incremental differential algorithm is used to calculate the pressure- displacement relationship from the measured force-displacement data from the online system. A number of woven and nonwoven fabrics are evaluated using the online measurement system as well as other commercially available fabric compression testers, and compressional char acteristics obtained from the online measurement system compare well with the same param eters measured by the other compressional testers.
Buckling Analysis of Woven Fabric Under Simple Shear Along Arbitrary Directions
Authors: Zhang Y.T. , Xu J.F.
Published: March 2008

This work continues our study of woven fabric buckling and provides generally analytical results on the buckling of a woven fabric sheet subjected to simple shear along the direction making an angle, θ(0° ≤ θ < 90°) say, to the warp. The buckling direction is related to the angle 0 and the critical amount of shear. As an illustration, the curve of the buckling direction angle versus the amount of shear for θ = 30° is plotted. Out-of- plane fabric buckling is possible, and only a flexural buckling mode can occur. The buckling condition for the flexural mode is also obtained and, as an illustration, a curve for 0 = 30° is plotted. This work also provides foundations for numerical methods to simulate KES shear buckling for fabric.
Analyzing Structural and Physical Properties of Ring, Rotor, and Friction Spun Yarns
Authors: Huh You , Young Ryul Kim  , Oxenham William
Published: March 2008

This research is a comparative study of the structural and physical properties of ring, rotor, and friction spun yams and an attempt to explain the differences in their physical properties on the basis of yam structure. Results show that the ring spun yam exhibits the highest fiber migration, followed by rotor spun yam, and friction spun yam with the least. A higher migration factor corresponds with a higher yam breaking tenacity. An analysis of packing density shows that the fibers for the rotor yam are located most densely near the yam center, while the friction yam has the highest density of fibers near the yam surface. The ring spun yam has a moderately uniform distribution of fiber packing density. The experimental results on fiber arrangement near the yam axis show that the friction spun yam has the highest rupture elongation due to the skewed arrangement of fibers around the yam axis. Yam hairiness strongly depends on mean fiber position, with an inward shifting of the packing density leading to low yam hairiness.
Dimensional, Pilling, and Abrasion Properties of Weft Knits Made from Open-End and Ring Spun Yarns
Authors: Candan C. , Önal L.
Published: March 2008

This paper focuses on the dimensional, pilling, and abrasion properties of a series of plain jersey, lacoste, and two-thread fleece fabrics made from cotton ring and open-end spun yams as well as from blend yams (50/50 cotton/polyester, dyed). The results show that both structural differences and fiber type play a large part in determining the dimensions of these fabrics. It is apparent that the knits from blend yams have a lower dimensional stability when compared to fabrics from 100% cotton ring and open-end spun yams. Findings for the two-thread fleece fabrics suggest that the inlay yam mainly governs their dimensional behavior in the widthwise direction. The pilling tendency of the test samples and their resistance to abrasion are evaluated with the ICI pilling box (at three different test revolutions) and the Martindale abrasion tester, respectively. In addition, an extensive SEM examination is used to study the effect of fiber type and repeated launder ings on both pilling development and the degree of fiber damage within fuzz assemblies. The results show that unlike plain jersey fabrics, lacoste fabrics perform very well, and that in general fabrics knitted from open-end spun yams have a lower propensity to pilling. In the case of the two-thread fleece structure, the samples from 100% cotton (i.e., both face and fleece yam) open-end yams have higher pilling rates compared to FBOE (face yam is cotton, fleece yam is 50/50 PET/cotton) and FBB (both face and fleece yam are 50/50 PET/cotton) fabrics. The SEM study reveals that for the same number of test revolutions, the degree of damage to fibers within the fuzz entanglements tends to increase with an increased number of launderings, and that the kind of damage varies from small cracks and fractures to slight flaking, depending on the fabric and yam type. Note, however, that any damage occurring as a result of repeated launderings and pilling tests is not as severe as that reported in the literature. The lacoste fabrics have the least resistance to abrasion.
Determining the Impact Permeability Index of Textiles
Authors: Gniotek Krzysztof , Tokarska Magdalena
Published: March 2008

A new feature of flat textiles—impact permeability—is presented. It refers to differ ences in the behavior of textiles in stable and variable conditions of through airflows. A determination procedure is described in detail, and an example of an impact permeability assessment of a cotton fabric is presented.
Optical Analysis of Classimat Faults
Authors: Mukhopadhyay A. , Sharma I.C. , Dasgupta K.
Published: March 2008

This work assesses actual increases in the cross-sectional areas of Classimat yarn faults with different spinning systems. The nature of diameter deviations of yarn faults with varying blends and yarn counts is investigated. The actual decrease in the cross-sectional area at the place of thin faults lies very close to the prescribed range of Classimat, but the actual increase in cross-sectional area of the thick faults is much higher than the Classimat range limit. Of the different materials, 100% viscose yarn thick faults show the highest percent deviation from the range limit compared to polyester-viscose, acrylic-viscose, and 100% acrylic yams for different counts and spinning systems. Thin faults, however, show no such trend with varying blends and different spinning systems.
Using Genetic Programming to Predict the Macroporosity of Woven Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Dubrovski Polona Dobnik , Brezocnik Miran
Published: March 2008

This paper reports the effect of woven fabric construction on macroporosity properties. The area of a macropore's cross section, equivalent, maximum, and minimum pore diameters, pore density, and open porosity are observed in this research involving woven fabric construction parameters—yarn linear density, fabric tightness, weave type, and denting. Predictive models, determined by genetic programming, are derived to describe the influence of fabric construction. The results show very good agreement between the experimental and predicted values. This work provides guidelines for engineering staple- yarn cotton fabrics in a grey state in terms of macroporosity properties.
Mouldability of Angle-Interlock Woven Fabrics for Technical Applications
Authors: Chen X. , Lo W.-Y. , Tayyar A.E. , Day R.J.
Published: March 2008

In many technical applications, ranging from composites to body armor, fabrics that are mouldable can be very useful. This paper investigates the mouldability of angle-interlock woven fabrics, which have low shear rigidity compared to woven fabrics with other weave structures. Angle-interlock fabrics with different structural parameters are designed and produced, and their mouldability is assessed using two different methods, a shear test and a deformation test. Results show that for a given yarn type, the mouldability of angle- interlock fabrics is closely related to fabric density and the number of weft layers. The mouldability tester developed in this research is useful and effective in assessing fabric mouldability.
Novel Observation Technique for Contact Condition of Fabric
Authors: Sakaguchi Akio , Matsumoto Yo-Ichi , Toriumi Koichiro , Kim Hyungsup
Published: March 2008

An observation technique is developed to provide a fundamental understanding of the surface contact condition between the human body and clothes. As a substitute for the body, transparent silicone rubber is used. The contact condition between the rubber and fabric is observed through the rubber using photomicrography. The method visualizes contact condition changes for different contact pressures and fabric structures. Using the relationship between the contact condition and the pressure, it is useful to estimate the two-dimensional distribution of contact pressure, which is important in clothing comfort.
Measuring Fiber Fineness with the Sheffield Apparatus
Authors: Dupont Daniel , Lejarre Pierre
Published: March 2008

The Sheffield apparatus measures the fineness of cotton fibers in a sample. It gives a direct readout of the micronaire reading, that is to say, the average number of micrograms per inch of the fibers. The principle is based on a permeability-to-air method. The drawback with this apparatus is that the measurement is made on a sample with a mass defined to the nearest milligram (3.240 ± 0.001 g), which requires a relatively long measuring time. This paper attempts to show that it is possible to overcome this constraint by using a sample with a mass of between 2.5 and 3.5 g, thus reducing the measuring time by approximately 50%.
Seed Coat Fragments: The Consequences of Carding and the Impact of Attached Fibers
Authors: Krifa Mourad , Frydrych Richard , Gozé Éric
Published: March 2008

Seed coat fragments (SCF) are extremely difficult contaminants to remove from cotton fibers because of the fibers attached to them. Literature data suggest that carding is the most effective cleaning step during which a significant proportion of the SCF is eliminated. In the study described here, different detection methods are used to evaluate the ability of carding to clean SCF-Contaminated cottons. Variations in SCF number and size distribution are evaluated. The amount of fibers attached to the SCF is measured by image analysis, and it appears to have a significant effect on the ability of the card to remove SCF.
Reducing Wrinkle Formation in Wool with 2-Iminothiorane Hydrochloride
Authors: Kuzuhara A. , Hori T.
Published: March 2008

To study wrinkle formation in wool, we investigate the relationship between wrinkle recovery and moisture regain in wool fabrics and the influence of incorporating bulky molecules (ninhydrin) on wrinkle recovery. We prepare wool fabrics by introducing additional disulfide (-SS-) groups using 2-iminothiolane hydrochloride (2-IT), and inves tigate the influence of the disulfide (-SS-) content on wrinkle recovery. FT-Raman spectroscopy reveals that wrinkle recovery improves with increasing -SS- content in wool fabrics. From these experiments, we demonstrate that wrinkle formation in wool occurs with the disconnection and reconnection (rearrangement) of hydrogen bonds, and -SS groups exert a repelling force on hydrogen bonds at the time of wrinkle formation.
Hybrid Effect at Fiber Breaks in Twisted Blended Yarns
Authors: Rossettos John N. , Godfrey Thomas A.
Published: March 2008

A previously developed micromechanical model is used to formulate the problem of a blended yarn, consisting of low elongation (LE) and high elongation (HE) fibers undergoing axial extension, with a fiber break in the central region of the hybrid fiber array. A hybrid parameter R, which is the ratio of the axial stiffness of the HE fibers to that of the LE fibers, is shown to have an important effect on the intact fiber stress concentration factor (SCF), and the broken fiber slip extent at the fiber break. While the SCF increases for HE fibers adjacent to broken LE fibers, it decreases for LE fibers adjacent to broken HE fibers as R takes on values away from unity (homogeneous yarn). Higher loading can therefore be sustained by the LE fibers, and a beneficial hybrid effect can be realized.
Physical Properties of Lyocell Fibers Spun from Isotropic Cellulose Dope in NMMO Monohydrate
Authors: Chae D.W. , Chae H.G. , Kim B.C. , Oh Y.S. , Jo S.M. , Lee W.S.
Published: March 2008

This article describes the physical properties of lyocell fibers spun from an isotropic cellulose spinning dope in N-methyl morpholine N-oxide (NMMO) monohydrate (IPS lyocell fibers). Wide angle x-ray diffraction (wAxD) experiments on the crimped fibers exhibit little difference in the crystal structure of IPS and Tencel lyocell fibers: both fibers reveal a cellulose II structure. However, the IPS lyocell fibers have a lower tensile modulus than Tencel by about 12.5%, although they have a similar tensile strength. Wetting and subsequent drying shift the loss tangent values higher, which is more remarkable for the IPS lyocell fibers dried under tension. Further, the IPS lyocell fibers dried under tension have a sharper α-transition peak than the fibers dried without tension. The IPS lyocell fibers exhibit excellent wet tensile strength: 90% of tensile strength is retained after wetting twice in distilled water. In addition, the IPS lyocell fibers show good chemical stability to acids and alkalis, except for an extremely strong alkali—pH 14. Mercerization of the IPS lyocell fibers in the buffer solution of pH 14 notably decreases the tensile modulus but increases elongation.
Modeling and Computer Simulation of the Compressional Behavior of Fiber Assemblies
Authors: Beil Norman B. , Roberts William W.
Published: March 2008

A model is presented that allows prediction of the properties of a fiber assembly under compression from the physical properties of its component fibers, taking into account both static and kinetic friction. Unlike previous models, this model is not based on the assumed behavior of idealized bending elements. Computer simulations are run for four cases with two different friction conditions in order to compare predictions of this model with experimental results and with van Wyk's theory of the uniaxial compression of an initially random fiber assembly. These simulations are the first to show a reasonable ability to predict the undeter mined constant K in van Wyk's equation. They also show a significandy greater number of fiber-fiber contacts being formed than theories based only on the diameter and arrangement of fibers have predicted. The predicted contacts have a wide range of contact forces, while only a small percentage of them do not slip. Further improvements to the predictive abilities of this model may be obtained by running larger simulations, modifying the boundary conditions, and incorporating a more realistic friction model.
Shear Properties of Woven Fabrics in Various Directions
Authors: Lo W.M. , Hu J.L.
Published: March 2008

Shear behavior is one of the most important characteristics that contribute to the performance and appearance of woven fabrics. In this paper, a model derived from Kilby's work is first used to predict fabric shear rigidity in different directions. Based on the existing literature, a strong linear relationship is found between shear rigidity ( G) and shear hysteresis at two angles (2 HG and 2 HG5). The model for predicting fabric shear rigidity is then applied to the shear hysteresis of a wide range of woven fabrics by comparing the theoretical data and experimental results and presenting them in the form of polar diagrams. The results show strong linear relationships between shear rigidity and shear hysteresis, not only in the principal directions but also in various bias directions. In all experimental results, distinct maxima are presented in the polar diagrams of fabric shear properties between the warp and weft directions.
Thermal Behavior of Polyarylate/Polyester Blend Fibers
Authors: Changfa Xiao  , Yufeng Zhang  , Shizhen Wu
Published: March 2008

The thermal behavior of polyarylate/polyester (PHET) blend fibers is investigated by means of DSC thermal analysis. The results show that the crystallization behaviors of the two components in the PHET fibers, poly(4-hydroxybenzoic acid/6-hydroxyl-2-naphthonic acid) [P(HBA/HNA)] and poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET), are independent of each other during annealing, in contrast to their crystal melting behaviors. The degree of three- dimensional order of P(HBA/HNA) is not as good as that of PET. and the structural regularity of P(HBA/HNA) has been improved to a certain extent in the PHET blend fibers.
Polyester "Shingosen" Fabrics Characterized by Dynamic Drape Coefficient with Swinging Motion
Authors: Matsudaira Mitsuo , Minzhang Yang  , Kinari Toshiyasu , Shintaku Sukenori
Published: March 2008

The static and dynamic drape behavior of polyester Shingosen fabrics is investigated using the new mechanical parameter of dynamic drapability, that is, the dynamic drape coefficient with swinging motion Dd. The Dd of the Peach Face fabric is small and that of the New Worsted fabric is large. On the other hand, there are almost no differences between each group of Shingosen fabrics in node numbers and conventional static drape coefficients. In classifying production characteristics, yam-processing fabrics show larger values of Dd than other fiber-production and fabric-finishing samples. In classifying fiber characteristics contractile fiber and ultra-fine fiber Shingosen fabrics show smaller values of Dd than irregular fiber fabrics.
Physical Analysis of the Compression of Filament Assemblies
Authors: Virto Luis , Carbonell Montse , Naik Arun
Published: March 2008

This paper presents experimental results on filament assembly compression showing the influence of porosity on the compacting pressure necessary for attaining the desired packing density. At the same time, a physical description of the compacting phenomenon is given. On the basis of these observations, a theoretical approach is developed to explain the volume decrease of a mass of filaments under compression.
Structural Analysis by X-Ray Microtomography of a Strained Nonwoven Papermaker Felt
Authors: Thibault X. , Bloch J.-F.
Published: March 2008

Textiles are used in many industrial applications, especially in papermaking. During the pressing of paper, felts are used to recover the water expressed from the wet sheet. To improve this operation, felt structures have to be characterized. X-ray microtomography is a powerful tool for reconstructing the complex organization of such fibrous materials. This method is first described, then examples of measurements are shown and discussed. This nondestructive technique appears to be an excellent tool for investigating woven and nonwoven structures. The fine description of the structure permits the characterization of structural parameters and numerical modeling of physical phenomena of this true three- dimensional structure.
Absorption Behavior of Metal Ions on Chitin/Cellulose Composite Fibers with Chemical Modification by EDTA
Authors: Izumi Shinya , Shimizu Yoshiaki , Higashimura Toshinobu
Published: March 2008

The novel synthesis of EDTA-modified chitin/cellulose composite fibers is accomplished using dimethyl sulfoxide as the solvent, and the absorptive ability of the fibers for metal ions is examined by measuring absorption isotherms at different pHs. For some metal ions, the modified fibers show improved absorption powers compared with the parent fiber material. These composite fibers may be a reusable medium for metal ion removal and concentrations from an aqueous matrix.
A New Creaseproof Finish for Wool Using 2-Iminothiorane Hydrochloride and Its Reaction Mechanism
Authors: Kuzuhara A. , Hori T.
Published: March 2008

For the purpose of developing wool fabrics with good wrinkle recovery, we have studied the reaction mechanism of a new wool processed with 2-iminothiorane hydro chloride (2-IT). With 2-IT, a number of new disulfide (-SS-) groups are introduced into wool fabrics. We investigate the reactivity of 2-IT and L-phenylalanine (Phe) as the model compound of wool by adsorption chromatography. Also, we analyze the bond structure of the product obtained from the reaction of 2-IT and Phe by 1H-NMR and SIMS. As a result, we confirm that 2-IT reacts with the amino group of Phe, and the -SH group finally replaces the amino group. Furthermore, the sulfur (S) content and wrinkle recovery clearly increase with increasing content of 2-IT, as revealed by x-ray fluorometry. The result of increasing the number of -SS- groups in the wool fabrics is that wrinkle recovery and setting ability improve.
Liquid Ammonia Treatment of Nylon 6 Fabric
Authors: Lee Muncheul , Myung Sun Lee  , Wakida Tomiji , Hayashi Aya , Okada Susumu , Yanai Yuichi
Published: March 2008

Desized and scoured nylon 6 fabric is treated with liquid ammonia (NH3) at -33.4°C. and the effects of the treatment on crystallinity, density, birefringence, DSC thermogram, moisture regain, water absorption, dyeability, and mechanical properties are investigated. The NH3 treatment increases crystallinity and density, but decreases birefringence and water absorption. Although α- and γ-forms coexist in untreated fibers, the γ-form is partially transformed to the α-form by the NH3 treatment, a result that is confirmed by DSC measurements. The NH3 treatment increases crystallinity, dyeing rate, and equilibrium dye uptake, especially with disperse dyes. Mechanical properties of NH3 treated nylon 6 fabric, KES shearing ( G, 2HG, and 2HG5), and bending hysteresis ( B and 2HB) are measured. G, 2HG, 2HG5. B, and 2HB decrease with the treatment. From this result, it is clear that the NH3 treatment improves the hand of nylon 6 fabric.
Detecting Fabric Defects with a Neural Network Using Two Kinds of Optical Patterns
Authors: Tilocca Antonio , Borzone Paolo , Carosio Stefano , Durante Antonio
Published: March 2008

In this work, we present a new direct approach to automatic fabric inspection based on an optical acquisition system and an artificial neural network (ANN) to analyze the acquired data. Defect detection and classification are based both on gray levels and 3D range profile data of the sample. These patterns are simultaneously fed into a feed-forward neural network without further transformation. The ANN is trained to classify three different categories: normal fabric, defect with a marked 3D component, and defect with no 3D component. The good classification rate obtained shows that the double set of patterns acquired basically includes relevant information on the textile sample. Since no further transformation of the data is needed before classification, the response of this system can be very fast and thus suitable for on-line monitoring of fabric defects at a high inspection rate.
Effects of Basic Weave Differences in Silk Fabric and Yarn Type Variations in Satin Weave on Sound Parameters
Authors: Kim Chunjeong , Cho Gilsoo , Na Youngjoo
Published: March 2008

In order to investigate the effects of basic weaves and yarn types on the sound characteristics of silk fabrics, seven samples are woven to the same density, their rustling sounds are recorded, and their sound spectra are obtained from FIT analysis. Physical sound parameters ( LPT, Δ L, Δf, ARC) and Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters of loudness( z), sharpness( z), roughness( z), and fluctuation strength( z) are calculated from the sound spectra. The basic weave types change the amplitudes of the sound spectra, while the weft yarn type in the satin weave determines the shapes of the spectra. Loud ness( z) varies with weave type. Of all the silk specimens, twill fabric has the highest loudness( z) due to its high LPT and ARC, but satin fabric with filament yarn has the lowest loudness( z) due to low LPT and ARC. In basic weaves, loudness( z) varies, but sharpness( z), roughness( z), and fluctuation strength(z) are similar. As for yarn types, loudness(z) is increased by noil yarn, sharpness(z) by spun yarn, and roughness(z) by highly twisted yarn, compared with filament yarns.
A New Concept in Cooler Design for False-Twist Texturing Systems
Authors: Foster P.W. , Aggarwal R.J. , Lu B.I. , Gunasekera U.S.W. , Cork C.R.
Published: March 2008

In false twist texturing, yarns are bulked by the sequential operations of twisting, heating, and cooling. The current speed for false twist texturing is limited by the early onset of threadline instability. It is well known that there is a potential to increase speeds by reducing the length of each element of the process. This paper describes the develop ment of a short-length water cooler that operates by direct contact between water and yarn. The important design parameters are identified and optimized, and the predicted perfor mance is in agreement with simple transient heat transfer theory. Trials have shown that commercially acceptable 167 decitex yarns can be produced with continuous running at 1000 m/min and with a potential speed of 1700 m/min or more.
Mechanical Behavior of Irregular Fibers
Authors: Weiyu He  , Xungai Wang
Published: March 2008

Fiber buckling behavior is associated with fabric-evoked prickle, which affects clothing comfort and aesthetics. In this paper, the flexural buckling behavior of irregular or nonuniform fibers is studied using the finite element method (FEM). Fiber dimensional irregularities are simulated with sine waves of different magnitude, frequency, and initial phase. The critical buckling loads of the simulated fibers are then calculated from the FE model. The results indicate that increasing the level of irregularity will decrease the critical buckling load of fibers, but the effect of the frequency and initial phase of irregularity on fiber buckling behavior is complicated and is affected by fiber diameter and effective length.
Analysis of Energy Dissipation in Twisted Fiber Bundles Under Cyclic Tensile Loading
Authors: Qiu Y. , Wang Y. , Laton M. , Mi J.Z.
Published: March 2008

This study of energy loss due to friction in dynamic loading conditions provides a new approach to characterizing fiber-on-fiber friction. Based on the theory of dynamic me chanical behavior of polymeric materials, the systematic experimental study uses cotton and polyester rovings to examine the effect of twist level, cyclic loading magnitude and frequencies, and gauge length on frictional energy loss. The test results are analyzed in comparison with Murayama's dynamic mechanical model. The model does not fit the experimental data, and a modification is proposed for characterizing the frictional energy loss of twisted staple fiber structures.
Intelligent Animal Fiber Classification with Artificial Neural Networks
Authors: She F.H. , Kong L.X. , Nahavandi S. , Kouzani A.Z.
Published: March 2008

Artificial neural networks (ANN) are increasingly used to solve many problems related to pattern recognition and object classification. In this paper, we report on a study using artificial neural networks to classify two kinds of animal fibers: merino and mohair. We have developed two different models, one extracting nine scale parameters with image processing, and the other using an unsupervised artificial neural network to extract features automatically, which are determined in accordance with the complexity of the scale structure and the accuracy of the model. Although the first model can achieve higher accuracy, it requires more effort for image processing and more prior knowledge, since the accuracy of the ANN largely depends on the parameters selected. The second model is more robust than the first, since only raw images are used. Because only ordinary optical images taken with a microscope are employed, we can use the approach for many textile applications without expensive equipment such as scanning electron microscopy.
Manipulating Fiber Structure to Stabilize Geometry in Fibers and Yams
Authors: Miller R.W.
Published: March 2008

Single-filament crimp within a carpet tuft is its geometric feature most responsible for body in cut-pile saxony carpet. Yam twist within the tuft is most responsible for imparting wear. Crimp setting factors can be manipulated to influence either the amount of crimp or its permanence, but not without consequences: factors impacting crimp permanence, like increased energy or dwell time within the crimper, can also impact a carpet's wearability by influencing the amount of twist that can be set. At moderate levels of inserted twist. carpet wear is inversely dependent on crimp permanence: the greater that permanence, the poorer the twist is set and the worse the resultant carpet's wear. The concepts of crimp and twist permanence and their interaction are introduced, and a method for quantifying that permanence is provided.
A Fabric Sound Evaluation System for Totally Auditory-Sensible Textiles
Authors: Yi Eunjou , Cho Gilsoo , Na Youngjoo , Casali John G.
Published: March 2008

In order to provide a fabric sound evaluation system for designing auditory-sensible fabrics, sound parameters are obtained, including the level pressure of total sound (LPT), sound color factors (Δ L and Δ f), three coefficients (ARC, ARF, ARE) of autoregressive models based on the fast fourier transform spectrum, loudness(Z) and sharpness(Z) from Zwicker's psychoacoustic models, and mechanical properties from KES values for wool suiting fabrics. As psychophysical characteristics, subjective sensations of softness, loud ness, sharpness, clearness, roughness, highness, and pleasantness of the fabric sounds are evaluated by the free modulus magnitude estimation. Tropical wool has the lowest loudness(Z) and the highest Δ L value among the fabrics. Melton, a thicker and heavier woolen, shows a trend similar to saxony and flannel for sound parameters. Wool suiting fabrics have higher scores for loudness and highness rather than clearness and pleasant ness, except for tropical wool, which has the highest scores for pleasantness among the fabrics. Using the modified stepwise regression of Kawabata, all sensations are predicted by both sound parameters and mechanical properties. The sound sensation of wool suiting fabrics is related mainly to tensile, surface, and shear properties in mechanical measure ments and with autoregressive coefficients as sound parameters.
Numerical Simulation of the Yarn-Object Interaction
Authors: Vu Hung Dang , Degrieck Joris , Van Langenhove Lieva , Kiekens Paul
Published: March 2008

Experimental and theoretical investigations of yarn-object interactions are presented in this paper. The behavior of the yarn—tensioning and drop off—is studied, taking into account several factors such as yarn length, yarn tension, object speed, object orientation. and object profile. A comparison of theoretical predictions and experimental measure ments for different yams indicates good agreement. The theoretical model can be used to optimize the object profile in order to reduce interactive yarn tension.
Using Cellulases to Improve the Dimensional Stability of Cellulosic Fabrics
Authors: Cortez João M. , Ellis John , Bishop David P.
Published: March 2008

Cellulosic fabrics of various constructions and fiber compositions are treated with cellulases under pad-batch conditions. All treated fabrics exhibit commercially significant improvements in dimensional stability after subsequent washing and drying cycles. The enzyme treatments are optimized in terms of cellulase concentration, wet pick-up, cellu lase composition, and batching time. Development samples of specific EG-rich cellulases used at 1.0 to 5.0 mg per gram of fabric give good results in terms of low shrinkage. with fabric weight and strength losses well within commercially acceptable limits. The im provements in dimensional stability compare favorably with those achieved by durable press finishing, but without deterioration of fabric handle. This work formed part of a wider European Commission-funded project (Brile-Euram III project 2157), and a patent application relating to the preferred cellulase/pad-batch process has been filed (WO0153592, published in August 2001).
Factors Influencing the Properties of Ladder-Knit Fancy Yarns
Authors: Nergis Banu Uygun
Published: March 2008

Ladder-knit fancy yams are produced using a range of take-up ratios and component yams on a knitting machine that produces fancy yams. The effect of the properties of the component yarns on the final count, tenacity at break, and appearance of ladder-knit fancy yams is studied, and an expression is derived to determine the final count of these ladder yarns.
Sequential Channelling of Mass Variances in Spun Yarn Manufacturing Processes
Authors: Jeong Sung H. , Suh Moon W.
Published: March 2008

This research deals with a new method of depicting the irregularity of a spun yarn in terms of the mass density profiles of its roving and sliver. A data acquisition system is introduced for capturing analog signals of fiber strands from an Uster Tester3®. Using the system, a linear relationship can be established between the masses of the fiber assemblies and the amplitudes of the output signals, which are shown to fit a time-series model. In addition, a statistical technique is proposed for separating the input variance and the process variance when a roving is produced from a sliver by the conventional drafting process in ring spinning. A spline method and a cross-spectrum analysis demonstrate that the density profiles of a sliver are channeled down to that of the resulting roving, and suggest a strong possibility for separating and controlling the process variances apart from the input variances.