bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Morphology and Properties of Crystalline Polymers with Fiber Structure
Authors: Peterlin A.
Published: March 2007

The morphological properties as derived from wide- and small-angle x-ray scattering, IR dichroism, electron spin resonance, and electron microscopy, and the anisotropy of mechanical properties of the fiber structure can be well explained by the microfibrillar concept developed on the basis of a detailed study of plastic deformation and fracture of polymer single crystals. The microfibrils bridging the cracks of a fractured crystal contain in axial direction a regular alternation of crystal blocks and amorphous layers containing chain folds, chain ends and a large ratio (between 5 and 30%) of tie mole cules providing the high longitudinal elastic modulus and strength. With lateral dimensions between 100 and 300 Å and a length of about 10 μ, they represent the strong structural element of the fiber. Lateral fit of crystal blocks of adjacent microfibrils produces the lamellae oriented more or less perpendicular to the fiber axis. They are a secondary structural element contributing to the lateral elastic modulus and strength. But the relatively easy axial slip of microfibrils, not substantially hampered by lamellae, yields the high shear compliance which is inexplicable by any model based on lamellae as primary element of fiber structure. The fracture of fibers in the tensile test most probably initiates at point defects of the microfibrillar or fibrillar superlattice, i.e., at the ends of microfibrils. The density of such defects as derived from the probable dimensions of microfibrils agrees very well with the observed number of ruptured chains.
Load Deformation Behavior of Wool at High Temperatures in Different Media
Authors: Shishoo Roshan
Published: March 2007

Extension creep measurements were made in steam on wool fibers and yarns. Samples were subjected to the action of steam for different periods (0-60 sec) before being loaded and further steamed for 60 sec. It was found that pre- steaming markedly influenced the subsequent extension and creep in steam, and maxima in deformations were obtained at a pre-steaming time of ca. 30 sec. Thus, it is advantageous to pre-steam wool before loading it so that deformations are made when wool structure is in a state of increased segment mobility. This would result in large deformations and also use of smaller loads than required otherwise. It is also shown how the effectiveness of crosslinking treatments and other structural modifications can be assessed from such measurements.
Concentration in the United States Textile Industry
Authors: Dardis R. , Langford A.
Published: March 2007

Changes in concentration in the textile industry in recent years were examined. While the results indicated an in crease in concentration since 1958, Markov analysis of the leading firms in the industry suggested that major changes in concentration may have occurred already. In most cases, changes from 1958 to 1968 were greater than those pro jected to occur from 1968 to equilibrium. In view of the growth of the world textile industry, increased concentration in the U. S. textile industry may be necessary if it is to compete in world markets.
The Effects of Disaggregating Agents on the Stress-Strain Relationship for Wool Fibers
Authors: Crewter W.G.
Published: March 2007

It has been shown that the immersion of wool fibers in solutions capable of denaturing proteins causes either a decrease in the elastic modulus of the Hookean region of the stress-strain diagram or the complete disappearance of this region and a small but significant decrease in stiffness of the fiber in the post-yield region. The strain at the turnover point between yield and post-yield regions and the breaking strain are unaffected by these reagents unless the fibers supercontract during equilibration with the solyent. A decrease in the extension at this turnover point is then observed. The results are used in a critical assessment of various structural models proposed for the wool fiber.
Evaluation of the Properties and Clothing Comfort of the Scandinavian Ski Dress in Wear Trials
Authors: Vokac Z. , Køpke V. , Keül P.
Published: March 2007

Wear trials of a woven and a knitted Scandinavian cross-country ski dress with identical underwear and other garments were performed in a climatic chamber on 5 subjects who walked at -9°C on a treadmill with a 5% grade for a total of 2 hr, changing the velocity of the walk every 20 mins from 4.1 to 6.7 km/hr. The energy output corresponded to 200, and 350 kcal/m2hr, respectively.

One-half of the produced sweat did not evaporate during the experiments and remained trapped in the clolh ing. Though the dress proper and its underwear covered two-thirds of the body surface area (trunk, arms, thighs), more than one-half of the not evaporated sweat was found in the garments of the peripheral area (head, hands, legs, feet). The vest contained a high amount of water, and the same partial pressure of water vapor was recorded in the spaces on either side of it, indicating that the beginning of the effective diffusion gradient through the clothing was shifted from the skin to the outer side of the vest. In the absence of wind in the trials, the clinging knitted dress assembly had a higher thermal resistance than the loosely cut woven one. But, subjectively, the woven assembly was felt to be warmer than the knitted which contained more trapped sweat.

The rectal and skin temperature, the temperature and humidity in the spaces between the clothing, and the subjective thermal and humidity sensations reflected well, by regular oscillations, the cyclic changes in the intensity of metabolism. The general thermal sensations correlated better with the weighted average of the rectal and mean skin temperature than with either temperature alone. However, in the quick walking periods, the general thermal sensations were the same as the sensations in the peripheral body area, while the rating of the sensations in the central area under the dress proper was distinctly lower. Special attention should be paid to the role of the peripheral parts of the body in the evalua tion of clothing comfort.
THPC-Cyanamide Flame-Retardant Finish for Sleepwear Cotton 1
Authors: Donaldson Darrell J. , Normand Floyd L. , Drake George L. , Reeves Wilson A.
Published: March 2007

Previous work at the Southern Division has shown that THPC-cyanamide reacts in the presence of phosphoric acid to impart durable flame retardancy to cotton textiles. However, the strength of the treated fabric is reduced considerably. This paper reports on a new improved formulation which contains dibasic sodium phosphate instead of phosphoric aicd. When this finish is applied to sleepwear, such as flannelette, durable flame resistance, together with good strength reten tion, is obtained. The effect of dibasic sodium phosphate concentration, mole ratio of reactants, and curing time on the durability and physical properties of the treated fabric are discussed.
A Flame-Retardant Finish Based upon Tris(hydroxymethyl)phosphine
Authors: Daigle D.J. , Pepperman A.B. , Drake G.L. , Reeves W.A.
Published: March 2007

A new flame-retardant finish utilizing tris(hydroxymethyl)phosphine (THP), trimethylolmelamine (TMM), one and a half methylolurea (11/2 MU), and a mixed catalyst (MgCl2.6H 2O-citric acid) has been developed. The process con sisted of padding cotton fabrics through an aqueous solution containing 14.3% THP, 13.35% 11/2 MU, 4.45% TMM, 1% mixed catalyst, and 1% wetting agent.

Sateen padded with 28% solids level solutions (exclusive of wetting agent and catalyst) and printcloth padded with 32% solids level solutions passed the vertical flame test after 50 launderings. Treated fabrics had good hand and appear ance. Losses in breaking strength were approximately 10% and tearing strength losses were of the same order of magni tude for wash-wear fabric.
Surface Analysis of Wool Fibers and Fiber Coatings by X-Ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy
Authors: Millard Merle M. , Pavlath Attila E.
Published: March 2007

X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy was used to detect coatings and chemical changes on the surface of wool fibers. Organic coatings containing fluorine, phosphorus, and silicon were detected on the surface of fibers by measuring the binding energy of core electrons ejected from the surface by x-rays. Changes in the concentration of these coatings on the surface of fibers were estimated from the area under the core electron binding-energy curve. Changes taking place on the surface of wool fibers subjected to oxidation in an electrical discharge were studied. Sulfur atoms on the surface , of the fiber were found to be oxidized to the plus six oxidation state by these treatments. The general application of x-ray photoelectron spectroscopy for the surface analysis of coatings and fibers is discussed.
Service Soiling of Wool, Man-Made Fiber, and Blended Carpets
Authors: Benisek L.
Published: March 2007

A comparison of carpets of identical construction made from different fibers or blends in actual service soiling condi tions shows that wool carpets have much superior soiling and soil release in shampooing properties than synthetic fibers and their blends.

The merit order of the fibers and blends tested was as follows: wool > wool/nylon 80/20 > > > continuous filament nylon > Evian > Terylene > Evlan/nylon 80/20 > Courtelle/Evlan 50/50 > Courtelle/Evlan/nylon 40/40/20 > ny lon > Courtelle, Acrilan.

There was very good agreement between instrumental and visual evaluation of soiling. With all the fibers or blends tested, loop-pile carpets show higher apparent soiling than cut pile carpets, probably because of the higher light scat tering coefficient of the latter.
Reactions of Glyoxal with Carbamoylethylated and Carboxyethylated Cotton for Improved Wrinkle Resistance
Authors: Mehta R.D.
Published: March 2007

Glyoxal was reacted with carbamoylethylated and carboxyethylated cotton under vatious conditions using: (a) two-step process employing alkaline and metal salt catalyst, (b) alkaline catalysts, (c) built-in acidity of the acid form of car boxyethyl substituent, and (d) low pH in the presence of moisture (moist cure process). It was found that the modified cotton fabrics after treatment with glyoxal produced superior wrinkle recovery with better retention of strength properties than the original unmodified fabric given parallel treatments. From the indirect evidence of comparative performance characteristics of the modified cotton and original cotton fabric, it is proposed that glyoxal may react monofunctionally with carbamoylethyl groups under alkaline condition and on curing in the presence of a metal salt catalyst, the reaction of pendent aldehyde groups may occur with cellulose hydroxyl groups.
Ionizable Groups in Fibers and Their Role in Dyeing. An Examination of the Sorption of Anionic Dyes by Cellulosic Fibers and Films
Authors: McGregor R.
Published: March 2007

The development of a simple but general approach to equilibrium dyeing has stimulated a re-examination of existing data on the sorption of anionic dyes by, cellulosic fibeis. New data are also analyzed.

The volume term V of the conventional theories has been replaced by the concept of an average practical ionic dis tribution coethcient ( K1)Pfor the inorganic ions in the system. ( K1)Pcan be measured independently of the dye sorp tion data.

The conventional theories ignore the acidic groups in cellulosic fibers and appear to use incorrect values for V. For these reasons the conventional theories appear to be seriously in error. A direct experimental test of these conclusions is proposed.
THP-Amide Flame-Retardant Finish: Rot and Weather Resistance
Authors: Daigle D.J. , Pepperman A.B. , Drake G.L. , Reeves Wilson A.
Published: March 2007

Desized, scoured, and bleached sateen and printcloth were applied by pad, dry, and cure in laboratory and pilot-plant. Fabrics were treated with THP-amide. Tests were made of breaking strength, flame resistance, and durability to launder ing. Rot and weather resistance were made of both oxidized and unoxidized fabrics.
Influence of Fiber Geometry on the Punching-Force Characteristics of Webs During Needle Felting
Authors: Goswami Bhuvenesh C. , Beck Tamas , Scardino Francis L.
Published: March 2007

This study describes the effects of fiber surface and geometric properties on the punching-force characteristics of webs during the needling process. A small needle loom assembly (consisting of a needle board, stripper, and a bed plate unit) mounted on an Instron tensile tester was used to measure the punching forces generated during the needling process. The punching speed used in this investigation was much lower than that employed in industrial needle looming. The punching force encountered during the second cycle (with and without recovery times between the successive cycles) was used to characterize the efficiency of the needling and fiber reorientation process.

It was found that fiber linear density has a profound effect on the punching force of polyester fiber webs, while surface roughness, cross-sectional shape, length and crimp seemed to have little or no effect on the punching-force values. How ever, the interaction of crimp and length, linear density and crimp, and linear density and length had a significant influence on the punching force. Measurements of the punching force in successive cycling experiments showed that, in addition to fiber linear density, fiber length, crimp and cross-sectional shape also significantly affected the recovery behavior of the reoriented fibers.
Barium Sulfate as an Adsorbent in TLC
Authors: Churi R.Y. , Shenai V.A. , Parameswaran R.
Published: March 2007

Use of barium sulfate is indicated as an adsorbent for TLC of dyes. Some merits in this context also are discussed.
The Transfer of Flame-Retardant Effects
Authors: Miller Bernard , Turner Rudolph
Published: March 2007

Burning-rate measurements on double layers of the same fabric having one layer treated with flame retardant reveal that effects of the retardant can be transferred to the untreated layer. A system consisting of a layer of cotton sheeting treated with a phosphate flame retardant placed underneath a layer of untreated material burns at about the same rate as two identically treated layers with the same net average add-on. When this average is low, the combination bums more rapidly than two untreated layers, in accordance with evidence that inorganic phosphate retardants can increase the flame-propagation rate of cotton at low add-on levels. For the double layers of synthetic fabrics studied thus far, it was found that treating only one of the layers results in almost as good and sometimes better reduction of burning rate as treating both layers to the same net add-on. Such transfer effects need to be recognized and understood by those using flame retardants in practical heterogeneous textile systems.
Comparative Microscopy of Ten Varieties of Mesta (Kenaf) in Relation to Yield and Quality
Authors: Maiti R.K. , Dasgupta Asima
Published: March 2007

Different varieties of mesta show their variabilities of the quantitative characterization of their microscope structure and quality. An attempt has been made to correlate some of the anatomical components with the performance of varieties towards yield and quality.
Load-Deformation Behavior of Wool at High Temperatures in Different Media
Authors: Shishoo Roshan
Published: March 2007

Load-extension measurements were made on wool fibers and yams in steam, air at 100°C, and water at different tem peratures in the range 20-90°C. Samples were subjected to the action of steam, air at 100°C, and water at 90°C for different periods before being loaded in the respective media. It was found that for all three heating media, extensibility passed through a maximum value when wool was elongated in the process of heat absorption. Temperature-dependent transitions in water were found to be around 40° and 70°C for reduced wool. Load-extension measurements of wool in steam showed that the effect of crosslinking treatment can be seen, if comparison is made between the load-extension curves of crosslinked and pretreated wool and not between crosslinked and untreated wool.
The Reactions of Cellulose with Amic Acids and Anhydride /Ammonia
Authors: Johnson Emmitt H. , Cuculo John A.
Published: March 2007

Reported is the generality of two new, recently reported reactions for the esterification of cellulosic fabrics using amic acids or anhydride/ammonia in aqueous solution. A study is made of amic acid structure and extent of formation of the cellulose half-acid ester, the main reaction product. The formation of crosslinked cellulose, a minor product, is also dis cussed. A series of amic acids, including the isomer pair, maleamic and fumaramic acids, as well as several anhydrides (with ammonia) were reacted with cellulosic fabrics. The results are interpreted to support a hypothesis which requires a unique combination of structural and environmental features for reaction to occur. Effects of pH, catalyst, and pres ence of moisture on extent of reaction were also studied. Resistance to acid and basic hydrolysis as well as the relative strength retention of treated fabric was determined. Comment is made on the potential utility of the modified fabrics.
Tension and Resin-Treatment Effects on Properties of Scoured and Mercerized Cotton Fibers and Fabrics of Different Constructions
Authors: Grant James N. , Hebert Jacques J. , Andrews Frederick R. , Wadsworth James I. , Orr Rollin S.
Published: March 2007

Fabrics of printcloth weight in plain and basket weave were crosslinked with dimethylolethyleneurea to 2, 5, and 10% add-on. Specimens were dried slack or under tension before curing. The amount of crosslinking, controlled by resin pickup, produced reasonably consistent nitrogen contents in samples when other parameters were varied. Among the properties measured were fiber density, fabric thickness and area changes, fabric tensile and wrinkle recoveries, and single- fiber tenacity and tensile recovery. Relationships of properties to nitrogen contents and among various physical proper ties were frequently influenced by tension, fabric construction, and pretreatment.
Radiation-Induced Addition of Flame Retardants to the Double Bond in Acrylamidomethyl Cellulose
Authors: Walsh William K. , Bittencourt Edison , Rutherford Henry A.
Published: March 2007

Cotton and rayon fabrics were condensed with N-methylol acrylamide to give products with various degrees of un saturation. Radiation-induced free-radical addition to the double bonds in these fabrics was accomplished with carbon tetrachloride, bromoform, chloroform, bromotetrachloromethane, polyethylene oxide, chloral and bromal hydrate, and sodium hypophosphite. Stannous and stannic chloride were also reacted by what seems to be a different mechanism. Bromination of these fabrics is also described. Significant flame retardancy was obtained without alteration of hand, because the reactions are limited to the inside of the cellulose fiber.
Some Observations on Shrinkage of Synthetics when Exposed to Flame
Authors: Throne James L.
Published: March 2007

Synthetics were exposed to flame by DOC FF 3-71; the highlights arc summarized. Observations were made of the (I) effect of quilting and (2) relationship between flame temperature, withdrawal, or shrinkage of the fabric. These observa tions might understand the complex relationship between the energy emitted by the flame and that absorbed and dis tributed by the fabric.
Proportion of Fiber Strength Utilized in the Single Yarn
Authors: Iyengar R.L.N. , Gupta A.K.
Published: March 2007

The proportion of fiber strength utilized in the yarn spun under standard procedures of spinning adopted at the Cotton Technological Research Laboratory and at the United States Department of Agriculture Laboratories has been examined. It has been found that the proportion of fiber strength utilized in CTRL spun yarns of lower counts is lower than that utilized by USDAL—spun yarns of similar counts. However, there is little difference in the case of higher counts. The reduction in the former case has been attributed to adoption of the three-roller system of drafting in spinning at CTRL, and of the double-apron high-draft system at the USDAL, for lower counts. For higher counts the same system is em ployed at both places.

Incidently, it has been found that improved length and fineness of fibers increase the proportion of fiber strength utilized; however, the influence of fiber tenacity depends on the system of spinning adopted.
A Model for the Crease Recovery of Fabrics
Authors: Chapman B.M.
Published: March 2007

The type of recovery behavior to be expected from a previously presented model for fabric bending and creasing is examined. This model consists of a generalized linear viscoelastic element in parallel with a frictional element. The linear viscoelastic element is characterized by the bending relaxation rigidity B( tA, T), a function of relaxation time T and absolute time tA, and the frictional element by the frictional moment Mo. The model should be relevant to the wrinkling and recovery of certain fabrics under constant conditions and under conditions of changing temperature and relative humidity. Two examples of the application of this model are presented.
Fluorescent Whitening Agents
Authors: Holt L.A. , Milligan B. , Wolfram L.J.
Published: March 2007

Immersion of fluorescently whitened wool in aqueous solutions of reducing agents during exposure to simulated sunlight has been shown to retard or prevent photoyellowing. The most effective reducing agents of the wide range examined were thioglycolic acid, sodium sulfite, and trishydroxymethylphosphine. Less photodecomposition of trytophan and histidine residues occurs during irradiation of either whitened or unwhitened wool in solutions of these reagents than in water, which may explain, in part, the role of reducing agents in inhibiting photoyellowing. In contrast, a study of bleached wool containing the bis(triazinylamino)stilbene whitener (I) showed that reducing agents do not affect signifi icantly the course or extent of photodecomposition of the whitener.

Reducing agents were less effective inhihitors of yellowing when padded onto wool and dried than when used in aqueous solution. However, treatment of fluorescently whitened wool with tetrakishydroxymethylphosphonium chloride (THPC) by padding was found to provide good protection against yellowing in sunlight, especially for exposure in the wet state. Unfortunately the protective effect was not very durable to washing. The sulfonated triphenyl phosphine (II) was substantive to wool but provided good protection against yellowing only at high concentrations. Two water-soluble antioxidants of the hindered phenol type were also tested but were found to be ineffective.
Frictional Properties of Siro Spun Yarns
Authors: Subramaniam V. , Natarajan K.S.
Published: March 2007

This paper reports the frictional properties of a series of siro spun yarns produced from cotton, polyester/cotton, and viscose. The coefficient of friction of the yarns has been measured using Howell's method where the two yams slide against each other at right angles. Yarn-to-metal friction has also been measured using a modified version of Howell and Mazur. The dependence of strand spacing and twist on the coefficients of yarn-to-yarn and yarn-to-metal friction has been examined, and the frictional coef ficient increases with increasing strand spacing and twist. The probable reasons for this behavior are discussed in terms of the nature of the yarn surfaces.
Design and Development of an Architecture for Computer-Integrated Manufacturing in the Apparel Industry
Authors: Jayaraman Sundaresan
Published: March 2007

To be successful and competitive and achieve excellence in manufacturing, the textile/apparel industry must successfully use the most advanced concepts and meth ods, including computer-integrated manufacturing (CIM). Successful implementation of CIM requires a fundamental analysis of the three major facets of the apparel en terprise : function, information, and dynamics. We discuss the concept of an architecture for apparel manufacturing, which will serve as the blueprint for implementing CIM. We present the various methodologies for developing the architecture, as well as a detailed disc on of the U.S. Air Force's integrated computer-aided manufacturing definition (IDEF). We also propose specific criteria for evaluating methodologies and software for developing the architecture.
Heat Loss Through Fabrics Under Ventilation With and Without a Phase Transition Additive
Authors: Lamb George E.R. , Duffy-Morris Kathleen
Published: March 2007

An apparatus has been built that measures the surface cooling rate of a ventilated cylinder. A special feature is that relative air motion is induced by moving the cylinder through still air, rather than by a more conventional wind tunnel. Initial measurements have been of the angular distribution of the cooling rate, the effects of permeability of fabrics covering the cylinder, and factors that influence the effectiveness of fabrics containing phase change materials in improving protection from cold weather.
Airflow Through Fiber Plugs
Authors: Neelakantan P. , Radhakrishnan T.
Published: March 2007

From Lord's data on solid fibers, we suggest a new equation for linking airflow data with fiber linear density, specific volume, and the form factor. We attempt to apply this equation to Lord's data on 44 cottons. Our results show that a single equation is sufficient to explain the airflow rates through plugs of different natural and man-made fibers, over a small range of plug porosity and specific volume and over a wider range of form factor and linear density. The specific volume is not the same for all cottons, and a precise knowledge of it is required for accurate estimates of maturity. Instruments used for airflow measurements should be capable of giving reliable and reproducible readings. We will conduct further precise experimental work on airflow through plugs made from "pedigreed"man-made fibers (solid as well as hollow) with widely different values of specific gravity, form factor, and linear density in order to standardize the principles of the method prior to testing cotton.
Adsorption of Direct Dyes on Cotton: Kinetics of Dyeing from Finite Baths Based on New Information
Authors: Chrastil Joseph
Published: March 2007

Adsorption time curves were determined for cotton fabric dyed with direct dyes under different conditions. A new simple method is described for kinetic analysis of adsorption time curves. Adsorption equilibria, specific rate constants, diffusion coef ficients, diffusion resistance, steady-state equilibrium constants, adsorbent capacities, finite bath exhaustions, activation energies, and reaction enthalpies were determined from the time curves. Specific rate constants and the diffusion coefficients correlated with the chemical structures of direct dyes (number of aromatic rings and ionizable sulfo groups).
Sensorial Comfort
Authors: Sweeney Maureen M. , Branson Donna H.
Published: March 2007

This study was part of an overall effort to explore the feasibility of using psycho physical methods to assess one component of sensorial comfort, moisture sensation in clothing, We have used a psychophysical approach to assess the relationship between moisture stimulus intensity and moisture sensation in subjects for one body location and using one fabric type. Thirteen subjects used the method of magnitude estimation to assess the intensities of moisture stimuli applied to their backs; there were highly significant differences between magnitude estimates of the moisture levels. Results showed that subjects were in good agreement on the rank order of the moisture levels. The relationship between moisture stimulus and moisture sensation demonstrated a psychophysical power function. Magnitude estimation offers the clothing comfort in vestigator the advantage of maintaining closer correspondence between objective and subjective measures over the usual psychological scaling methods used.
Part II: Determining the Effective Mean Fiber Length Acting in Each Yarn
Authors: Deluca Lloyd B. , Smith Brent , Waters William T.
Published: March 2007

Yams spun from a particular Egyptian cotton were used to develop a method of ' ° analyzing how fiber properties translate into yarn properties. The yarns in a wide range of sizes and twist factors were spun independently on a ring spinning frame. A method of yarn analysis was developed by evaluating the yam data. Single-strand breaking tenacity was determined for each yarn. Yam tenacity was normalized for fiber fineness, angle of fiber twist, and number of broken fibers. Equations relating yarn twist to the normalized yarn tenacity data for different yarn sizes at a constant twist factor for each of seven twist factors were used to determine unique effective fiber lengths in each yarn. Equations were developed relating yarn twist to effective fiber lengths at constant yam size. Effective fiber lengths for each yarn in the family were compared and agreed with the extant experimental results.
In Vivo Cutaneous and Perceived Comfort Response to Fabric
Authors: Markee N.L. , Hatch K.L. , Maibach H.I. , Barker R.L. , Radhakrishnaiah P. , Woo S.S.
Published: March 2007

We report on the perceived comfort data collected while ten female subjects exercised in the hot, humid environment ( 29.4°C, 75% RH) wearing garments made from the three experimental knit fabrics. These findings are related to the fabric thermophys iological comfort data reported in Part I, the mechanical and surface related comfort data in Part II, and the skin alteration data in Part III of this series. At four times during the wear protocol (after acclimation, after 10 minutes of wear, after 40 minutes of exercise, and after 20 minutes of rest following exercise), subjects were asked to indicate overall comfort and thermal, wetness, and contact sensations. There was no difference between the fabrics for wetness or thermal sensation, a result explainable in terms of the extremely small differences in water and heat transport data reported in Part I. The thermal insulation, permeability index, and comfort limit values we calculated predict that differences in perceived thermal and wetness sensation should be minimal.

Skin temperature was a significant determinant of perceived thermal comfort in our regression model, but capillary blood flow was not. The regression model for wetness sensation showed that stratum corneum water content and evaporative water loss were statistically significant determinants. Use of wetness-related and contact sensation descriptors differed for the three experimental fabrics. Differences in the wetness-related descriptors appear related to the percent water uptake of the fabrics during exercise. Fiber denier and fabric mechanical and surface feature data were useful in explaining the difference in contact sensations. The fabrics differed in perceived overall comfort. In the regression analysis, capillary blood flow was the only physio logical factor with a statistically significant effect on overall comfort. We suspect a link between the mechanical and surface features and capillary blood flow.
Relation Between Degree of Set and Crease Recovery for Chemically Modified Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Subramaniam V. , Chilakwad Sanjay , Basavarajaiah C.L. , Selvakumar N.
Published: March 2007

The relation between degree of flat set and crease recovery of chemically modified cotton fabrics is described. The correlation between the degree of flat set and crease recovery is good, but after washing it worsens. Values of the correlations between the degree of flat set and the crease recovery seem to interchange following washing treat ment. The relation between the ratio of the bending hysteresis and the initial elastic flexural rigidity and the crease recovery is good, indicating that this ratio can be used as a measure of crease recovery. However, the correlations in warp and weft directions before washing seem to interchange following washing.
Effects of Commercial Heat Setting on the Structure and Properties of Polyester Carpet Yarn
Authors: Cullerton D.L. , Ellison M.S. , Aspland J.R.
Published: March 2007

Polyester carpet yarn is heat set during the production process in order to impart structural stability. Although batch (autoclave) and continuous (Superba TVP and Suessen GVA ) heat setting methods are used, the continuous processes are prevalent and constitute a greater part of this study. Commercial heat setting equipment and settings are used here because previous works were the results of laboratory studies. The primary technique applied in this study to determine the microstructural features of polyester is x-ray diffraction. Crystallization and crystallite melting temperatures from differential thermal analysis ( DTA ) and colorimetric determinations of initial rates of dyeing are also measured to provide additional data for interpreting the results, and tensile properties of the yarns are reported as well.

X-ray and DTA results indicate no significant increases in the degree of crystallinity of yarns heat set by the Superba TVP method, while crystallinity increases with in creasing temperature for samples heat set by the Suessen GVA method. Crystal size increases for samples heat set by either of the continuous methods. Although x-ray determined crystallinity measures are significantly different at different levels of tem perature and dwell time, there are no significant differences in heat of fusion values obtained from DTA with changes in heat setting temperatures and dwell times. Te nacity, percent elongation, and work to break increase as a result of heat setting for samples set using the Superba TVP, autoclave, or Suessen GVA equipment, while the initial modulus decreases compared to a non-heat set sample.
Opening Behavior of Lockstitch Seams in Woven Fabrics Under Cyclic Loading Conditions
Authors: Shimazaki Kozo , Lloyd David W.
Published: March 2007

The opening behavior of lockstitch seams (seam type 1.01.01, SSa-1, stitch type 301 ) under cyclic loading conditions has been analyzed, using models of the slippage of yarns in the fabric and the deformation of the stitch itself. The extension properties of the sewing thread under constant cyclic loading conditions were included by using an empirical formula to predict the maximum strain in terms of the applied load and its number of repetitions. Similarly, an empirical formula was used to predict the amount of yarn slippage in woven fabric, in terms of the applied load and its number of repetitions. This formula was obtained from experiments in which the sewing threads in a lockstitch seam were replaced by pins. These results were combined to provide a method for predicting the deformation of a stitch under cyclic loading conditions. The amount of seam opening actually occurring was measured experimentally under different conditions and compared with the calculated values. Reasonable agreement was obtained, with the model explaining the influence of thread properties, stitch density, thread consumption, applied load, and the number of loading cycles. The model was therefore effective in predicting seam opening behavior under cyclic loading conditions.
Quality Improvement of Sirospun Yarns Through Use of Finer Rovings
Authors: Salhotra K.R.
Published: March 2007

Optimization of Sirospun yam quality is an ongoing process. The compactness of the yam appears to be an important factor. In this paper, we show that for a given yam count, a lower draft produces a stronger and more even yarn.
Three-Dimensional Pattern Drafting
Authors: Heisey Francesann , Brown Peter , Johnson Robert F.
Published: March 2007

An algorithm is presented for computationally drafting patterns from three-dimen sional data, in which the fabric is everywhere in contact with the underlying surface. The algorithm is based on an earlier theoretical framework, which models draping a garment as a two-step process. In this part, a functional relationship for the fabric flattening step of that framework is developed for woven fabric. Use of the algorithm is demonstrated in drafting coverings for a spherical object. The only factors that restrict the form to be fitted are the physical characteristics of the fabric. Previously reported methods for drafting patterns from three-dimensional data have been severely limited by arbitrarily chosen projections. In Part II, a functional relationship for the garment definition step of the framework is developed for a basic skirt.
Analysis of Mechanical Fatigue Phenomena in Wool and Wool Blend Suiting Fabrics
Authors: Yokura Hiroko , Niwa Masako
Published: March 2007

Fatigue phenomena in fabrics can be quantified by increases in mechanical hysteresis properties. Increase in the mechanical hysteresis properties of fabrics with wear are considered with respect to the structural modification of fiber assemblies, the increase in interfiber friction, and the changes in the mechanical properties and crimp of fibers. The crimp of both yams and fibers decreased due to considerable extension of the fabrics during wear; the yams became flattened, thus increasing the lateral pressure and contact region at yam crossover points in the fabrics. The shear torque parameter C1, which represents the effect of interfiber friction, increased with wear. Increased interyarn and interfiber friction is considered to govern the increase in the hysteresis properties of fabrics with wear. The yield stress and strain of fibers for tensile and torsional properties decreased with wear. The removal of fiber scales and the ragged fiber surfaces after wear were observed using scanning electron microscopy. Mechanical degradation and decreased crimp of kid mohair and polyester fibers with wear were greater than those of coopworth fibers.
A Review of the Relationship of Cotton Maturity and Dyeability
Authors: Smith Brent
Published: March 2007

A comprehensive review of cotton maturity test methods is presented, and the relationship of maturity to dyeability is reviewed. The potential use of maturity test data for controlling commercial dyeing operations is assessed.
Acrylic Acid Grafted Polyester Surface: Surface Free Energies, FT-IR(ATR), and ESCA Characterization
Authors: Kawase Tokuzo , Uchita Maki , Fuj Tomiko , Minagawa Motoi
Published: March 2007

The surface of polyester grafted with acrylic acid has been characterized using contact angle measurements of a two-liquid phase system and FT-IR and ESCA spectroscopy as a function of the concentration of acrylic acid on grafting. The COOH groups on the polymer surface influence only the polar component γspof surface energy and not the dispersive one γsd. Both the FT-IR and ESCA characterizations, showing the transformation of COOH to COONa by alkaline treatment, provide information with a high degree of surface sensitivity, comparable to that of contact angle measurements. The relative area ratios of the COONa peak to the COOR peak by FT-IR ( Asurface) and of the Na1speak to the C1speak by ESCA are linearly correlated to γsp.
Effect of Lubrication on Spinning Properties of Dyed Cotton Fibers
Authors: Berberi Pellumb G.
Published: March 2007

In order to improve cotton spinnability after wet processing, it is necessary to treat the fibers with lubricants. This study reports the influence of four commercial lubricant formulations on cotton sliver cohesion as measured by sliver tenacity. Sliver cohesion passes through two maxima as a function of lubricant concentration in the range of 0 to 1.0%, reflecting two or more competing physical processes. The dependence of roving tenacity (lubricant treated and untreated) on humidity shows a minimum char acteristic of the lubricant used. The lubricant treatment also increases the sensitivity of roving cohesion to temperature.
Factors Influencing the Detection of Dark Fiber Contamination in Plain Weave Fabric'
Authors: Foulds R.A. , Burbidge A. , Mcinnes C.
Published: March 2007

Dark fibers appearing as faults in white and pastel shaded fabrics are a major problem for manufacturers. These fabrics are subjectively assessed for suitability for their end uses. A number of different factors influence the detection of dark fibers in fabric, including viewing distance from the fabric, darkness grade, and the effects of fiber diameter and length. This experiment was designed to determine the relative impor tance of factors influencing the detection of dark fibers in fabric. Of the four operators chosen, one was a commercial fabric inspector, whose observations acted as a bench mark for the experiment. The results showed that the operators had little trouble in detecting the darker fibers, but their efficiency decreased when examining fabric seeded with lighter fibers (noticeably grades 4, 5, and 6). From these results, we concluded that fiber darkness plays a major role in the detection efficiency of operators. Fiber diameter, viewing distance from the fabric, and length of the test fiber were secondary factors influencing detection efficiency for fibers with diameters less than 38 μm.
Mechanics of Friction Twisting
Authors: Du Guang-Wu , Hearle John W.S.
Published: March 2007

The universal model of a single disc presented in Part I of this series is applied to a typical triple-stack multi-disc spindle, and a computer simulation is made for a polyester multifilament yam. Results show the influence of disc geometry, frictional coefficient, and D/Y ratio on yarn path, tension ratio, and torque.
New Technique to Label Pesticide-Contaminated Fabrics for SEM Analysis
Authors: Shaw Anugrah
Published: March 2007

Backscattered electron imaging (BEI) and x-ray analysis have been beneficial in studying the distribution patterns of pesticides on various fabrics. In order to analyze the samples, pesticides were labeled with osmium tetroxide solution, but there was a possibility of inaccurate results because the pesticide on the surface of the fabric could be dislocated in the aqueous medium. A new technique has been developed for labeling the pesticide on the textile material with osmium tetroxide in vapor form, which could produce more accurate results. The overall objective of the study was to compare BEI and x-ray microanalysis results using the earlier and the new methods. Fifteen samples with different fabric, yarn, and fiber characteristics were used for the study. One half of the samples were labeled and prepared using the earlier method and the other half with the new one. The samples were analyzed using BEI and x-ray microanalysis and the results of the two methods compared for similarities and differences.
Airflow Through Fiber Plugs
Authors: Radhakrishnan T. , Neelakantan P. , Narasimham T.
Published: March 2007

The concepts presented in Part II of this series of papers have been used to develop , alternative formulas for predicting the linear density, maturity fineness, and maturity ratio of cotton fibers from measurements obtained with the IIC Shirley fineness maturity tester. These formulas use only two constants and offer as good an agreement with the experimental data as the standard IIC formulas for this instrument. The verifications were done using a data bank furnished by the International Institute for Cotton. The results are discussed in detail and suggestions made for further experimental work toward improving the prediction of cotton fiber properties from airflow measurements.
A New Approach to the Theory of the Compression of Fiber Assemblies
Authors: Komori Takashi , Itoh Motoyoshi
Published: March 2007

A formula is presented for the mechanics of a fiber mass under extensive compres sion. The mass is treated as the assembly of the fiber elements whose individual bending behaviors are combined into the overall response of the mass. The stress-strain relation and Poisson's ratio are expressed in terms of the strain-dependent density of fiber orientation, the spatial density of fiber length, and the properties of fibers. The theory differs from others proposed in three respects: the length of the bending element depends on the respective orientation, the law to describe the change in the direction distribution induced by compression is given in a differential form, and the mechanical relation is derived by the energy method. The general theory is applied to three special cases for a random mass; in the case of isotropic compression, an analytical solution equiv alent to van Wyk's is derived; in two cases of uniaxial compression, with and without lateral confinement, numerical calculation predicts, respectively, stress and strain in duced in the transverse direction.
Role of Water in Air-Jet Texturing
Authors: Kothari V.K. , Sengupta A.K. , Rengasamy R.S.
Published: March 2007

Nylon yarns conditioned in different relative humidities were textured in both dry and wet modes, and the effect of these factors on the structure and properties of air textured yarns was investigated. Results suggest that friction plays a more important role than modulus, and the marked improvement in structure and properties of textured yarns brought about by wet texturing despite increased friction due to wetting cannot be ascribed to a reduction in the modulus of filaments. The changes in the fluid behavior inside the jet may be playing a vital role in influencing the texturing behavior of filaments in the presence of water.
Crystalline Character of Native and Chemically Treated Saudi Arabian Cotton Fibers
Authors: Khalifa Berlant A. , Abdel-Zaher Nabawia , Shoukr Fathia S.
Published: March 2007

The crystalline character of Saudi Arabian cotton fibers was studied using a wide angle x-ray diffraction technique. The purified cotton fibers were examined in their native state and after treatment with urea or caustic soda (NaOH). Cellulosic phases in Saudi Arabian cotton were identified by measuring and indexing the reflections 101, 101, and 002. The x-ray diffractograms showed a cellulose I structure in native cotton fibers as well as those treated with urea. Cotton fibers treated with NaOH and with urea followed by NaOH showed a cellulose II structure. Computer data processing was used to determine the percent crystallinity, lattice spacings, disorder parameter, and crystallite sizes. The percent crystallinity of native cotton decreased from 64% to 47% with mercerization (NaOH). The lattice spacings calculated from the resolved peak positions indicated that d101 for each phase increased by 1 %, while both d101 and d002 decreased with treatment. The disorder parameter increased from 0.0094 to 0.0123 with mercerization. The crystallite sizes L101 and L101 were 3.75 and 2.61 nm, respec tively, for native cotton, and changed to 3.39 and 2.64 nm with the urea treatment. With mercerization, L101 and L101 were 4.35 and 3.15 nm, respectively, but with mercerization after the urea treatment, the crystallite sizes dropped to 1.27 and 2.85 nm, respectively. In the direction perpendicular to the c-axis, the crystallite sizes (L002) were 4.32, 3.7, 3.07, and 2.94 nm for the untreated cotton, urea treated, mercerized, and mercerized after urea treatment, respectively.
Effect of Process Variables in Air-Jet Texturing on the Properties of Spun Yarns with Different Structures
Authors: Sengupta A.K. , Kothari V.K. , Srinivasan J.
Published: March 2007

We have analyzed the effects of process variables (texturing overfeed, air pressure) and feed material variable (yarn twist) on the important properties of air-jet textured spun yarns of different structural configurations. For this, we adopted a factorial design approach where factors are varied simultaneously in order to find the individual as well as interactive effects. Using this experimental design, we computed general re lationships relating the properties with variables as well as the significant terms in these relationships, and we plotted the response surface graphically.