bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Mechanics of Texturing Thermoplastic Yarns
Authors: Arghyros Stelios , Backer Stanley
Published: March 2008

Experiments were carried out on monofilaments to determine the role of the magnitude and mode of deformation on heat setting efficiency of nylon 66 and polyester. In single mode deformations, setting efficiencies increased consistently as the temperature and the magnitude of that single imposed deformation were raised. In double and triple mode deformations, however, an increase in level of imposed strain (in any single mode) generally led to an increased residual heat set in one mode, but decreased set on the other mode. The nylon 66 monofilaments evidenced significantly higher twist setting efficiency (often exceeding 100%) than did the polyester specimens. On the other hand, the polyester bend setting was significantly greater than that of the nylon.
Enzymatic Evaluation of Sugar Content of Cotton
Authors: Bailey Nancy M. , Bailey Charles A. , Reichard Sherwood M.
Published: March 2008

Problems frequently occur during processing of raw cotton as a result of the build-up of deposits on the rolls and other parts of the processing machinery. These deposits have been related in part to the sugar content of cotton. A rapid method, designed for use at the plant location, was developed using a series of enzyme reactions in which the various sugars present in the cotton are converted to glucose. A second coupled enzyme reaction yields a compound which can be measured spectrophotometrically and is stoichiometrically equivalent to the amount of glucose present. This enzymatic method, which can differentiate between the types of sugars present on cotton, is characterized by simplicity, speed, sensitivity, and specificity. Applications of this enzyme assay to greige mill processing problems show tremendous potential for the textile industry.
The Interaction of Positively Charged Polymer Particles with Wool Fibers
Authors: Fleischfresser Barry E.
Published: March 2008

The adsorption of positively charged polymer particles onto wool fibers from an aqueous dispersion has been investigated under various conditions. The effects of pH, electrolyte, and non-ionic and charged surfactants on the rate of adsorption are reported. Desorption of polymer particles under the influence of surfactants and pH changes has also been studied.

The results of both adsorption and desorption experiments are explained in terms of the DLVO theory of heterocoagulation together with steric effects arising from the presence of adsorbed surfactant molecules.
Characterization of Fiber Length in Slivers
Authors: Perel J.
Published: March 2008

An index is proposed for characterizing the length of fibers in slivers based on the Lindsley technique. This index is simple, time-saving, and inexpensive to run and it possesses high sensitivity. Results obtained with cotton slivers are described and compared with other methods.
An Analysis of the Mechanical Behavior of Triaxial Fabrics and the Equivalency of Conventional Fabrics
Authors: Schwartz Peter , Fornes Raymond , Mohamed Mansour
Published: March 2008

The results are presented of an earlier analysis of a triaxial fabric by extension of the classical results of Peirce and Grosberg. Using the geometrical model of this earlier work, a theoretical analysis is presented in which the work necessary to deform the fabric is approximated by the change in strain energy in the constituent threads. The relationship between triaxial and conventional fabrics is discussed in the context of equivalency. The relationships among triaxial, plain, and leno fabrics are discussed. Using a specially constructed biaxial test fixture, fabric moduli predicted in earlier work are experimentally verified. In addition, equivalent weight conventional fabrics, both plain and leno, are compared with a triaxial fabric through ball burst and tear testing. The study shows that, although both conventional fabrics can be thought of as equivalent to the triaxial fabric, in reality no conventional equivalent exists.
The Effects of Projectile Geometry on the Performance of Ballistic Fabrics
Authors: Montgomery T.G. , Grady P.L. , Tomasino C.
Published: March 2008

A ballistic laboratory was designed and built to accommodate the impact of . Kevlar® woven fabric of varying ply levels, while manipulating the geometrical shape, weight, and impact velocity of the projectile. A chronograph system was used to measure the striking and residual velocities of the missile.

Empirical relations were determined between the experimental data and the quantity 1/√L, where L is the ogive length of the projectile. This quantity was found to be useful in characterizing projectile geometrical effects on the impact performance of woven fabric systems. The effects of projectile shape on the number of fabric plies, velocity loss data, and thus V50 values are characterized by the empirical relations.
Surface Temperature Measurements for Estimating Relative Heat Flow Through Textiles
Authors: Vigo Tyrone L. , Hassenboehler Charles B. , Wyatt Nancy E.
Published: March 2008

The heat flow through a variety of textile and related materials, at different relative humidity, temperature, and moisture transport combinations was satisfac torily predicted from the calculated thermal transmittance values times either (a) the temperature difference between a heated plate over which the material was suspended and the ambient room air above the material, or (b) the surface tem perature of the material measured by color changes in temperature-graded liquid crystal film strips placed on the material times a constant. Temperature differences were obtained by measuring the respective plate, fabric, and air temperatures with liquid crystal film strips and with a point-source radiation device. Calculated heat flow values using a and b were compared to those measured on a mixed flow thermal transmittance apparatus. A method of interpolating fractional temperature in the liquid crystal film strips was also devised. The latter affords an inexpensive method of predicting heat flow through textile substrates covering a body of uniform tem perature.
Crystal Structure of Saponified Cellulose Triacetate Fiber
Authors: Venkataraman A. , Subramanian D.R. , Soosamma P.C.
Published: March 2008

Structural analysis of saponified cellulose triacetate I by X-ray diffraction and infrared deuteration studies reveals that cellulose triacetate I, after saponification, does not retain the memory of the parent lattice, cellulose I, as postulated by earlier workers.
Capsule-Producing Coryneform Bacteria Associated with Stickiness in Cotton
Authors: Wyatt B.G. , Heintz C.E.
Published: March 2008

Sticky cotton samples received at the Textile Research Center of Texas Tech University for processing had a significantly higher proportion of white colonies (many of which were coryneform bacteria) than non-sticky cotton samples, al though the same kinds of organisms were present on both kinds of cottons. Four representative strains of coryneform bacteria were isolated from samples of both sticky and non-sticky cotton and examined for their ability to produce extracellular carbohydrates. When grown on thioglycollate agar, two of the strains produced copious amounts of extracellular polysaccharide in the form of a capsule. All four strains produced this material when they were grown in a liquid medium. Paper chromatography of the hydrolyzed capsular material revealed the presence of both glucose and galactose, and both glucose and galactose were present in hydrolyzed extracts of sticky cotton. Since previous investigators found carbohydrates were associated with stickiness in cotton, it is possible that capsule-forming coryneform bacteria contribute to stickiness when they constitute a significant proportion of the bacteria present on cotton.
Durable Press Finishing of Cotton with N-Methylolacrylamide Using Non-Peroxidic Polymerization Initiators
Authors: Welch Clark M.
Published: March 2008

A study is presented of the use of the water-soluble azo compound 4,4'-azobis(4- cyanovaleric acid) and its salts as nonoxidative free radical polymerization initiators for durable press finishing of cotton with N-methylolacrylamide. The azo initiators show less tendency to tender and discolor cotton fabric during high temperature curing than does ammonium persulfate. Two-stage curing at 110° and 160° was used to induce vinyl polymerization, foltowed by cellulose crosslinking in the pres ence of zinc salts serving both as co-catalysts for polymerization and as Lewis acid catalysts for cellulose crosslinking by poly(NMA). Phosphoric acid-monosodium phosphate buffer also served to minimize tendering. Adding catalytic amounts of phosphonium salts such as THP sulfate or phosphate as oxygen scavengers, in the presence and absence of azo initiator and co-catalysts, increased the efficiency of NMA polymerization in air.

It is possible to eliminate completely the loss of flex abrasion resistance normally encountered in printcloth finishing to durable press appearance ratings of 4.0-4.2, and to improve Accelerotor abrasion resistance relative to conventionally treated fabric. Increased tearing and breaking strength retention were also imparted. The treated fabrics were more supple and possessed a lower bending moment than did the original untreated printcloth.
Temperature-Sensitive Hollow Fibers Containing Phase Change Salts
Authors: Vigo Tyrone L. , Frost C.E.
Published: March 2008

Hollow rayon and polypropylene fibers have been modified to change their heat capacity dramatically in an ambient temperature range (270-310 K) by filling them with aqueous solutions of calcium chloride hexahydrate/strontium chloride hexa hydrate capable of producing latent heat gains and losses in the modified fibers during repeated heating and cooling. Both fibers produced large endotherms in the heating cycle (303 K) that were dependent on the relative humidity at which the fibers were previously conditioned; however, only the modified rayon fibers exhibited a significant exotherm in the cooling cycle (282 K). Endotherms and exotherms for modified rayon fibers (previously conditioned at 45% RH) persisted even after 10 heating and cooling cycles. Apparently, hydrophilic differences in the two fiber types require different amounts of water in the salt system of the dried and conditioned fiber to produce reversible latent heat gains and losses caused by heats of fusion and crystallization of the salt system. Neither the unmodified fibers nor another aqueous salt system incorporated into the fibers (sodium sulfate/borax) exhibited any sig nificant endothermic or exothermic changes on heating or cooling.
Durable Press Finishing of Cotton Drill Using Transfer-Pad-Cure Technique
Authors: Varghese J. , Doshi B.A.
Published: March 2008

A cotton drill fabric of 348 g/m2 was finished with DMDHEU from anti-crease to durable press level using a shock-cure technique employing a loop transfer pad with resultant low wet pickup of 40% and an active mixed catalyst system. A con ventional pad-dry-cure (PDC) treatment was also used. Evaluation of fabrics finished by the transfer-pad-cure (TPC) and PDC techniques shows that TPC leads to higher fixed N2% with better performance in resilience properties. A comparison of the two techniques using a performance profile chart reveals that the TPC technique shows better performance at lower levels of improvement in resilience, and it narrows down as the resilience approaches the durable press level. This is attributed to the slightly swollen state of DMDHEU crosslinked fibers obtained with the TPC technique.
Microelemental Analysis for Identifying Cotton-Related Dust Particles
Authors: Goynes Wilton R. , Berni Ralph J.
Published: March 2008

Identification of components of cotton mill dust is a major problem in the search for the causative agent of the chronic lung disease, byssinosis. In the mechanical processes that produce respirable dusts, most of the particles lose all morphological features, making it difficult to determine their source. Workers have used the nat urally occurring elemental content of the various cotton plant parts to show their presence in collected mill dusts. Elemental content of dust particles from known cotton plant parts was determined by electron microscopy-energy dispersive X-ray analysis and by X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy. Potassium and calcium content were used to differentiate leaf and bract materials from stem, seedcoat, and pericarp materials. Particles with elemental content patterns similar to these two groups were present in dust generated in a cotton cardroom. Cottonseed oil mill dusts showed fewer leaf-like particles but more mineral material.
Chemistry of Hydroxymethyl Phosphorus Compounds
Authors: Vail Sidney L. , Daigle Donald J. , Frank Arlen W.
Published: March 2008

The current status of applied technology for production of flame retardant cotton fabrics is reviewed, with emphasis on some of the technical problems that remain to be solved. Our thesis is that progress can best be made through a better under standing of the chemistry of the hydroxymethyl phosphorus compounds and their derivatives. The similarity of mechanisms of the reactions of hydroxymethyl phos phorus compounds to those of some of the well studied classical organophosphorus reactions ( e.g., the Wittig reaction) are noted and discussed. The chemistry of both the ammonia cure and heat cure processes are examined, with emphasis on reaction mechanisms for N-methylol reactants and the competitive nature of the reactants, including cellulose, in the system. An outline of the series of papers is provided.
Chemistry of Hydroxymethyl Phosphorus Compounds
Authors: Frank Arlen W. , Daigle Donald J. , Vail Sidney L.
Published: March 2008

The chemistry of the hydroxymethyl phosphonium salts and their derivatives is reviewed, with major emphasis on reactions in which the quaternary structure of the phosphonium salts is preserved.
Thermal Properties of Wall Covering Materials
Authors: Reagan Barbara M. , Villasi Ludwig
Published: March 2008

A major source of heat loss in homes is through walls. Increased insulation on interior walls may reduce energy consumption for heating and cooling. This study evaluated the thermal transmittance characteristics of 15 wall coverings that differed in weight, thickness, density, fiber content, and construction characteristics. A guarded hot/cold plate was used to measure the thermal conductivity of the fabrics. Significant differences in thermal transmittance were found among some of the wall coverings evaluated.
False-Twist Textured Poly(ethylene Terephthalate) Slit Film Yarn
Authors: Sen A. , Gupta V.B. , Sengupta A.K.
Published: March 2008

Poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) slit film yarn, which was crystalline and par tially oriented, was first given a 100% stretch at temperatures between 90 and 180°C. These drawn yarns were then textured on a spindle false twist texturing machine under standard conditions, and the textured samples were heat-set in hot water. The post-textured heat-set yarn samples showed good crimp retraction characteristics. The characteristics of the feeder yarn, which govern the properties of the textured yarn, are highlighted. The yarn drawn at 130°C has the lowest crystallinity and, when textured, gives optimum properties.
Chemistry of Hydroxymethyl Phosphorus Compounds
Authors: Frank Arlen W. , Daigle Donald J. , Vail Sidney L.
Published: March 2008

The chemistry of the hydroxymethyl phosphines, phosphine oxides, and phos phonium hydroxides is reviewed in relation to flame retardant finishing of cotton.2
Studies on Abrasion of Sewing Threads with Scanning Electron Microscopy
Authors: Munshi V.G. , Pai S.D. , Ukidve A.V.
Published: March 2008

The Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) was used to probe into the surface structure of three typical sewing threads after abrasion, and an attempt was made to support the visual evidence with the physical data obtained experimentally. Coarse and medium fine yarns showed more hairy appearance on abrasion. Bruising and smoothening effects were rather marked in coarse thread. Twisting of fibers and development of longitudinal cracks occurred in medium fine yam. In case of fine yam, fiber surface damage was not discernible; however, pulled out fibers clustered into a group. Visual evidence of the SEM supports the established view that the extent of damage due to abrasion depends on the size of the yarn, the twist, and the number of plies.
Mechanics of High Speed Texturing
Authors: Tae Jin Kang  , El-Shiekh Aly
Published: March 2008

The mechanics of the belt twisting principle are analyzed for slipping mode and positive driving mode. In slipping mode the yarn and the friction surfaces are ev erywhere slipping and the relative speed gives frictional forces to the yam in its direction. In positive driving mode, however, the yam is fully gripped by two belts, the system has no slippage in yarn rotational or forward directions, and the belt motion determines the twist level and tension ratios of the yam. General equations are derived relating the variables of tension, belt angle, twist level, ratio of belt speed to yarn speed, and yarn torque. The solutions to these differential equations give the expressions for the yarn tension ratio and yam torque as a function of twist, yarn parameter, and machine variables. In this paper, the theoretical performance of the system with changes in the configuration of the twister is discussed and limitations considered.
Phenomena Occurring in Bursting Tests of Circular Fabric Samples
Authors: Zurek Witold , Bendkowska Wieslawa
Published: March 2008

Based on observations of pressed samples of fabrics and on a simplified mechanical model, the ellipsoid shape of pressed sample is assumed. Comparison of the com puted values with experimental ones justifies this assumptioq.
Association Between Raw Wool Characteristics and Processing to Top
Authors: Rottenbury R.A. , Andrews M.W. , Brown G.H.
Published: March 2008

Batches in a combing plant were monitored to examine the relative influence of a number of greasy wool characteristics on the early stages of worsted processing. Characteristics measured for each batch included those normally available from core testing (mean fiber diameter, yield, and vegetable matter content), together with staple length and its variability, staple strength and the position of staple weakness, clean color, resistance to bulk compression of clean wool, and variability of fiber diameter. Combing noilage, the mean and distribution of fiber length, and the mean fiber diameter of the resultant tops were the processing factors considered. High levels of association were found between selected subsets of the characteristics of the greasy wool and the processing factors. There is some discussion of the appropriateness of the methods of regression analysis and the refevance of the work to the commercial situation.
Lint Retrieval at Ginning: Further Study of Bale Value and Spinning Performance
Authors: Baker R.V. , Lalor W.F. , Laird J.W.
Published: March 2008

Experiments were conducted to evaluate the effects of a fiber retrieving process at the cotton gin on fiber and yam quality and spinning performance of machine- stripped cotton. The retrieving process recovered about 75% of the fiber normally wasted by the gin-type lint cleaners, and returned this fiber to the bale concurrently with ginning. The process had no effect on lint classification, but increased bale weights by 4.1 to 5.4 kg and bale loan values by $3 to $4. Retrieved fiber was significantly lower in quality than conventionally cleaned fiber, but the return of this small amount of fiber to the bale had only minor effects on overall fiber quality. Yarn tenacity and spinning potential were reduced slightly by the retrieving process in one experiment, but unaffected in another experiment. The retrieving process had no significant effect on other spinning performance and yarn property measurements, percentage of comber noils, combed sliver properties, or dye-uptake characteristics of knitted fabric.
Prediction of Finished Weight and Shrinkage of Cotton Knits— The Starfish Project
Authors: Allan Heap S. , Greenwood Peter F. , Leah Robert D. , Eaton James T. , Stevens Jill C. , Keher Pauline
Published: March 2008

The "Starfish" project is a long term program of applied research that attempts to provide a sufficiently rigorous working method and a sufficiently comprehensive data base so that a rational system may gradually be developed for reliably predicting the shrinkage and dimensional properties of finished, knitted cotton fabrics. This intro ductory report presents the general outline and philosophy of the project, and sum marizes some of the main areas of progress after the first five years, so that subsequent publications of detailed results may be seen in context.
Development of a New Fire Services Wool Tunic
Authors: Mehta P.N. , Norman D.L.
Published: March 2008

Commercial exploitation of new technologies in wool has broadened the range of wool materials available for garment design. A three layer firefighter tunic was de veloped, consisting of a thin compact outer shell of wool serge fabric with a thick brushed woollen insulator and a lightweight cotton lining. The laboratory evaluation of the tunic for protection against heat, flame, water, chemical, and water vapor resistance exceeded the minimum requirements, based on the median value labo ratory results of 18 different tunics officially approved and currently used in 10 European countries. The most appropriate garment design features incorporated into the prototype garment are detailed.
Glyoxal as a Formaldehyde-Free Durable Press Reagent for Mild Curing Applications'
Authors: Welch Clark M.
Published: March 2008

The combination of aluminum sulfate and an α-hydroxy acid has proven highly effective in catalyzing the crosslinking of cotton cellulose by glyoxal under mild curing conditions. The durable press appearance ratings were increased by the presence of ethylene glycol as a coreactive additive, and a silanol-terminated silicone as softener. An unusual effect was observed with longer chain glycols, which cannot form 1:1 cyclic adducts with glyoxal as ethylene glycol does. The added glycols appeared to increase the efficiency of cellulose crosslinking by glyoxal, so that quite low curing temperatures and catalyst concentrations could be used. A preferential absorption and interaction of glyoxal with the cellulose may have occurred during the drying step to form complex cellulose hemiacetals, which subsequently interacted with added glycols to give the final crosslink structures during the heat cure. With diethylene glycol as eoreactant for glyoxal in a 1:1 mole ratio, curing at 1.15°C was effective in imparting a durable press rating of 4.0 with 298° conditioned wrinkle recovery (w + f) and 46-48% breaking or tearing strength retention in cotton printcloth. Fabric whiteness was equal or superior to that with dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea applied by a conventional pad-dry-cure treatment with magnesium chloride catalysis.
Assessment of Fabric Performance Versus Reagent Location from Lick Roller Application of DMDHEU
Authors: Rowland Stanley P. , Bertoniere Noelte R. , King Walter D.
Published: March 2008

The balance of textile performance properties and the distribution of crosslinking reagent residues throughout fabric were studied in relation to lick roller application of DMDHEU. Features of the lick roller treated fabric were compared to the con ventional pad(immersion)-dry-cure product and to a corresponding product designed to have a high degree of uniformity of reagent residue distribution throughout the thickness of the fabric by minimizing migration. A special Osnaburg-fabric was used to facilitate several aspects of the study including the measurement of distribution of reagent residues. The fabric treated to a high degree of uniformity of reagent residue distribution exhibited substantially higher abrasion resistance than the con ventional product when compared at equal levels of durable press appearance rating; it was slightly lower in strength properties. The product from lick roller treatment at optimum liquor pickup approached the high uniformity standard in uniformity of reagent residue distribution throughout the fabric thickness and in abrasion resistance. In breaking strength, tearing strength, and elongation (especially in the warp), this product from lick roller treatment performed close to the high uniformity standard. The performance of another product from lick roller treatment that involved lower liquor pickup is also described, Performance properties and distributions of reagent residues are discussed in detail.
Solution Fracture Barrier in Wet Spinning
Authors: Southern John H. , Ballman Richard L.
Published: March 2008

The dry jet wet spinning of various molecular weight aromatic polyhydrazide solutions is used to exemplify tenacity and spinnability reduction due to solution fracture, an elastic flow instability initiating in the capillary entrance region. Signif icantly, fiber spun at shear rates an order of magnitude above that required for fracture initiation evidences no tenacity loss. A flow visualization apparatus, used to photo graph the solution orientation changes resulting from fracture, verified reduced in stability amplitude at high shear rates.
Behavior of Loose Fibrous Beds During Centrifuging
Authors: Hearne E.R. , Nossar M.S.
Published: March 2008

Conditions affecting the shape, size and location of droplets of surface moisture retained in centrifuged beds of textile fibers are discussed. Equations are developed for predicting the limiting maximum volume that can be retained by the surface tension forces for droplets of different shape. Computer solutions of these equations are verified experimentally. For several droplet configurations likely to exist, the bulk of the surface moisture retained during centrifuging is in the form of large droplets (larger than the fiber diameter) trapped at points of contact between the individual fibers in the bed. A possibility is suggested for predicting the final retention of moisture after centrifuging by calculating the number of contacts between the fibers in the bed and the maximum limiting volume of large droplets in terms of the centrifuging parameters and the physical properties of the fibers and the fluid.
Distribution of Fiber Diameter in Wool Tops
Authors: Lunney H.W.M.
Published: March 2008

Ten statistics of distribution of fiber diameter are calculated for 41 commercial wool tops after measurement with the CSIRO Fiber Fineness Distribution Analyser. The range of each statistic likely to be encountered in practice is found, and an experimental estimate of the precision is made. Using three deviant tops for com parison, there is no reason at present to go beyond the well known second-order statistics of standard deviation or coefficient of variation.
Dyeing of Water Swollen, Solvent Exchanged Cotton with Anionic Dyes from Dimethylformamide-Trichloroethylene Solvent Mixtures
Authors: Chavan R.B. , Venkata Rao J.
Published: March 2008

Attempts have been made to study the equilibrium adsorption at 40°C of three acid dyes having the same structure but a varying number of sulphonic acid groups on water swollen, solvent exchanged cotton from different ratios of dimethylfor mamide-trichloroethylene solvent mixtures. The equilibrium adsorption of the dyes in general increased with decrease in dye solubility in the solvent mixture and increase in the number of sulphonic acid groups in the dye molecule. To understand the dyeing mechanism, the adsorption isotherms were plotted and interpreted in terms of distribution of dye between the dye bath and the solvent closely associated with the fiber, followed by Langmuir adsorption on cotton. The affinity values were cal culated using the Langmuir equation and were consistent over a wide range of dye concentrations. The dye affinity increased with the increase in trichloroethylene con tent in the solvent mixture and with the increase in sulphonic acid groups in the dye molecule.
Predicting the Drape Coefficient of Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Gaucher Marian L. , King Martin W. , Johnston Bruce
Published: March 2008

Multiple regression analysis was used to determine whether certain deformation properties (stiffness, shear, extensibility) and structural characteristics (fabric weight, thickness, and density) serve as reliable predictors of the drape of knitted fabrics. Stiffness, measured in terms of bending length, thickness, and shear, is the factor influencing the drape of knitted fabrics in general. Warp knits and weft knits, however, are dependent on different variables. Stiffness, thickness, and extension are the best predictors for warp knits, whereas stiffness and shear are the best predictors for weft knitted constructions.
Load-Deformation Behavior of Three-Dimensional Crimped Filaments: Theoretical Analysis and Experimental Verification
Authors: Gupta D.K. , El-Shiekh Aly
Published: March 2008

A theoretical analysis of the load-contraction behavior of a crimped filament, whose axes lie in a three-dimensional space, is presented. Three first order nonlinear si multaneous differential equations describe the deformed shape of the filament in space. These equations are solved numerically using suitable crimp boundary con ditions to analyze the load-contraction behavior and the deformed shape of a false- twist crimped filament. A bicomponent fiber model is considered as a special case of false-twist crimp with an original helix angle of 90° in the helically set filament.

To verify the theory developed, polyester and nylon 6 monofilaments were heat- set in helical shapes of different radii and helix angles to produce false-twist and bicomponent models. Experimental results show an excellent correlation with the predicted values.
Comparison of Performance Characteristics of Seven Fusible Interfacings
Authors: Koenig Sharon K. , Kadolph Sara J.
Published: March 2008

Performance characteristics of seven fusible interfacings (one from each category of fusible interfacings readily available) were investigated. The interfacings were fused to a common face fabric of 65% polyester/35% cotton broadcloth and subjected to standard testing procedures to evaluate and compare their effect on the face fabric's ability to perform in three areas: laundering (including dimensional stability, sepa ration of face fabric and interfacing, and appearance after laundering), wrinkle re covery (appearance and recovery angle), and drape.

All fusible interfacings exhibited some shrinkage in both directions and separated from the face fabric after five laundering cycles. Each kind of interfacing produced a distinct manner of surface distortion of the face fabric. All specimens received unacceptable appearance ratings after five launderings, but three specimens received acceptable ratings after ironing. All specimens received unacceptable wrinkle recovery appearance ratings. Application of fusible interfacing affected the face fabric's ability to recover from creasing. Application of fusible interfacings significantly affected the drape of the face fabric, with each interfacing type exhibiting a different drape con figuration that could be attributed to the physical structure of the interfacing fabric.
A Quantitative Method for In-Plant Determination of Hercosett 125® in Aqueous Solution
Authors: Smith A.J. , Byrne K.M.
Published: March 2008

A method is described by which the concentration of Hercosett 125® in aqueous solution may be quantitatively determined by titration against an aqueous solution of Synthappret BAP. The technique is used to monitor the Hercosett concentration in the resin bowl during continuous Kroy chlorination/Hercosett top processing.
A Microscopical Study of Residual Oily Soil Distribution on Fabrics of Varying Fiber Content
Authors: Obendorf S.K. , Namasté Y.M.N. , Durnam D.J.
Published: March 2008

Microprobe techniques were used to study the distribution of residual triolein, a major constituent of human sebum, within yams of varying fiber content. Fabrics of acrylic, polyester, nylon, cotton, and polyester/cotton were soiled with triolein, aged for 16 hours at 38°C, and washed at 38°C with a heavy-duty, unbuilt liquid detergent. After five soil-age-wash cycles, specimens were prepared for analysis by electron microscopy. For fibers of all chemical types, backscattered electron images and electron beam X-ray microanalysis showed high concentrations of triolein in the interfiber capillaries of the yarns and on the fiber surfaces. Oil appeared in beads on the surfaces of acrylic and nylon fibers and on polyester fibers from the polyester/ cotton blend that had a durable press finish. Unfinished polyester fibers, both round and trilobal, had a more uniform coating of oil around the fiber surfaces.

Radiotracer analysis indicated that less residual oil was present on the nylon fabric than on the fabrics containing other synthetic fibers. The distribution of oil, however. was similar for these fabrics. Little or no triolein was observed in the interior of any of the synthetic fibers. Cotton fibers had large deposits in the crenelated surfaces and in the lumen, as well as in the interfiber spaces. Dewaxed cotton fabric retained 10% less triolein than the cotton fabric that had not been extracted with an organic solvent. The 50% polyester/50% cotton fabric with a durable press finish had a lower amount of residual oil on it than the unfinished fabric. '
Spinning Value of Jute Fiber
Authors: Lahiri A. , Saha R.N.
Published: March 2008

The shape of the curve showing the yarn size/yarn tenacity relationship is an important criterion for judging the spinning quality of a textile fiber. This paper suggests an equation for the relationship derived empirically by spinning different qualities of jute fibers into a number of counts. Straight-forward correlation analysis and regression equations relating yarn tenacity to fiber properties are set up at each level of count.
Microspectrophotometric Study of Ozone Fading of Disperse Dyes in Nylon
Authors: Kamath Y.K. , Ruetsch S.B. , Weigmann H.-D.
Published: March 2008

The fading of disperse-dyed nylon by atmospheric ozone can pose a problem at high environmental temperatures and humidities. In attempting to devise ways to inhibit such fading, researchers have suggested that the reaction between ozone and dye occurs chiefly at the fiber surface—that ozone does not penetrate inward, but that the dye diffuses outward from the fiber interior due to the concentration gradient set up as surface dye is destroyed. This mechanism has been supported, though not proved, by observations that dye diffusion is also sensitive to humidity in such systems, that rates of dye loss due to ozone exposure correlate with dye desorption rates into water, and that dye loss, like dye diffusion, depends on the square root of time and on the size of the dye molecule. These findings were based on determinations of total dye content in fiber specimens; however, adapting the techniques of microspectro photometry to fibers, as described in this paper, makes it possible to observe directly the locus of dye destruction in the fiber and to determine the relative dye loss at selected locations, such as at the edge and center of a fiber cross section. The coefficient of diffusion of the dye within the fiber can also be evaluated using the micropho tometer. These capabilities have been applied to the ozone fading of nylon 6 dyed with C.I. Disperse Blue 3, and the experimental results do not correlate with a math ematical model based on the hypothesis of dye destruction exclusively at the fiber surface. On this basis it is postulated that, in addition to dye diffusion toward the fiber surface, ozone penetration into the fiber contributes substantially to the fading process.
Internal Lipids of Wool Fibers
Authors: Leeder J.D. , Bishop D.G. , Jones L.N.
Published: March 2008

Analyses of the lipid composition of wool fibers were made after removing surface wool grease. The internal lipids did not originate in the wool grease, nor were they related to biological membrane lipids in composition, particularly the phospholipid content. The structure of the "cell membrane complex" of keratin fibers, currently interpreted in terms of the fluid mosaic model for biological membranes, may there fore need to be reinvestigated.
A Probability Model for Estimating Fiber Breakage in Rotor Spinning
Authors: Salhotra K.R. , Kambo N.S. , Chattopadhyay R.
Published: March 2008

The opening roller system of fiber separation in rotor spinning is known to cause considerable fiber breakage. An earlier work reported an experimental technique for determining fiber breakage. This study proposes a simple probability model based on the number-length relationship of the fibers, before and after the breakage, for estimating the probabilities of multisegmental breakages. The experimental and theo retical values show a reasonably good agreement.
Evaluation of Metal Complexes and Tetrabromophthalic Acid as Flame Retardants for Wool
Authors: Benisek L. , Craven P.C.
Published: March 2008

Treatment with tetrabromophthalic acid (TBPA) produces very short after-flaming times on treated wool, also under bone-dry conditions; however, this treatment is not fast to washing, produces excessive smoke emission, and char formation is less than in the case of the metal complex treatments. The latter treatments produce low smoke emission, can protect flammable seat fillings from ignition, and reduce heat transfer through clothing exposed to convective heat (flames) by formation of intu mescent char. A simultaneous metal complex/TBPA treatment combines the advan tages of both flame-retardant systems, and there is synergism between them according to the limiting oxygen index and washfastness results.
Frictional Forces in the Heald Eye
Authors: Galuszynski S. , Ellis P.
Published: March 2008

The movement of the yarn against the guide produces some frictional force, which has to be overcome during the movement, leading to an increase in the yarn tension behind the guide. The value of this frictional force depends on a few factors, the effect of which, during the yarn movement as well as at the start of the movement, is discussed here in terms of the experimental findings, for which the heald (heddle) eyes were used as guides. The findings show that the frictional force is a function of yarn speed, yarn tension, contact angle between the yarn and the heald eye, and the diameter of the eye wire.
Effect of Additives on the Structure of Melt-Spun Poly(ethylene Terephthalate)
Authors: Warner S.B. , Holt A.
Published: March 2008

Incorporating a small amount of comonomer, sodio sulfoisophthalate, in PET produces a sharp decrease in the orientation of melt-spun fibers, but also reduces the wind-up-speed at which crystallization occurs in the spinline. This is consistent with high variations in local orientation, with crystallization in those areas where orien tation is sufficiently high. Incorporating a very small amount of an agent that ac celerates melt crystallization under quiescent conditions has no effect on spun yarn structure, because crystallization in the spinline is dominated by orientation/stress phenomena
Evaluation of Micronaire Value by Digital Fibrograph
Authors: Makwana D.N. , Munshi V.G.
Published: March 2008

A Micronaire value is an indirect measure of fineness of cotton fiber. This paper describes an experimental procedure by which a Micronaire value can be estimated from 430 model Fibrograph data.
Crimp Retraction of Textured Poly(ethylene Terephthalate) Yarn
Authors: Gupta V.B. , Ailawadi A. , Ganguly P.K.
Published: March 2008

The crimp rigidity test devised by the Hosiery and Allied Trades Research Asso ciation (HATRA), England is used as a measure of crimp retraction and also of the "degree of set." This paper attempts to assess how far this test is representative of set. Of the two components of crimp rigidity (extension under load and recovery upon unloading), only the recovery component is related to set in the samples studied.
Mechanics of Texturing Thermoplastic Yarns Part X: Effect of Frictional Snubbing on Pseudo False Twisting During Set Texturing
Authors: Hsu Peter , Backer Stanley
Published: March 2008

The occurrence of temporary twist in a torque stretch yarn passing through the resetting heater is confirmed. Separate measurements are made of threadline torque development during reheating of the yarn and of the corresponding twist required to relieve said torque. These data are used in a graphical explanation of the uptwist/ untwist phenomenon that occurs in the resetting heater and is termed pseudo false twisting because of the absence of a mechanical device.

The presence of a snub pin in the threadline downstream of the second heater modifies the yarn torque level across the resetting zone, reducing uptwist levels and suppressing residual torque of the set textured yarn. A graphical explanation of the pin effect is also provided.
Dyeing Cotton with a Reactive Dye from Polar-Nonpolar Solvent Systems
Authors: Chavan R.B. , Subramanian A.
Published: March 2008

An attempt was made to dye an aqueous alkali swollen cotton with CI Reactive Red-31 from polar/nonpolar solvent mixtures. For this purpose acetone was selected as the nonpolar solvent and the various polar solvents were water, formamide, di methylsulfoxide, dimethylformamide, and dimethylacetamide. At a suitable ratio of solvent mixture and alkali concentration used for cotton preswelling, it was possible to get 100% dye bath exhaustion and dye fixation of 79-82%, except from dimeth ylformamide-acetone and dimethylacetamide-acetone solvent mixtures. The propor tion of polar-nonpolar solvent necessary to get highest dye bath exhaustion and dye fixation was dependent on the dielectric constant of the polar solvent. Some of the polar solvents were good swelling agents for cotton as indicated by their imbibition values and high dyebath exhaustion. It was therefore possible to carry out dyeing without water preswelling; however, since the alkali used for dye fixation was insoluble in the solvents, aqueous alkali preswelling was essential. Concentration of alkali re quired during preswelling to get maximum dye exhaustion and fixation was different for different polar solvent-acetone mixtures. This was attributed to the desorption and readsorption of alkali from the solvent mixtures to different extents.
Laser-Doppler Anemometry to Study Fluid Transport in Fibrous Assemblies
Authors: Howaldt M. , Yoganathan A.P.
Published: March 2008

Laser-Doppler anemometry is a technique that has evolved over the past fifteen years as a powerful tool for measuring velocity fields in various research and industrial applications. Traditional techniques for measuring the transport characteristics of fluids in a fibrous assembly do not unfortufiately provide quantitative information about the actual dynamic transport processes occurring within the fibrous assembly. A laser-Doppler anemometer system that can provide such quantitative dynamic transport information is described. The fundamental fluid dynamic information ob tained with a laser-Doppler anemometer system should enhance our knowledge about the flow of fluids in fibrous assemblies. Such information is virtually nonexistent in the literature.
Neutralizing Fluorozirconate and Fluorotitanate Treated Wools
Authors: Ellingham Paul E. , Gordon Peter G. , Guy Frances , Rosevear Judi
Published: March 2008

A wide variety of reagents was explored in an attempt to obtain a satisfactory and cheap method for neutralizing wools flame retarded with fluorozirconate and fluo rotitanate. Conventional reagents are unsatisfactory, either because they adversely affect the flame-retardant finish or because they impair durability to laundering. Potential procedures involve the use of 10% solutions of sodium acetate, 1% sodium acetate in aqueous alcoholic solutions, or amines in dry-cleaning solvents. The use of dilute ammonia or amines in aqueous solutions destroys the flame retardant finish without removing zirconium from the fiber.
Effect of Preheating and Alkali Treatment on Crease Recovery of Rayon Fabrics
Authors: Matsukawa Saburo , Sakurai Kensuke , Nakamura Yoshiharu , Tonami Hiroaki
Published: March 2008

The effect of various pretreatments on rayon fabrics before resin finishing was studied to clarify the mechanism of improvement in dry and wet crease recovery given by resin finishing. Preheating or alkali pretreatment enhanced dry crease recovery when using a reactant-type resin, but at the expense of improvement in wet crease recovery.

To clarify the mechanism of improvement in dry and wet crease recovery by these pretreatments, infrared deuteration, x-ray diffraction, and lateral order distribution were carried out. Results are discussed taking into consideration the distribution of resin in the fibers and the water sensitive hydrogen bonds, which were effective only in dry crease recovery.
Spectral Analysis of Yarn irregularity and Its Relationship to Other Yarn Characteristics
Authors: Sharieff I. , Vinzanekar S.G. , Narasimham T.
Published: March 2008

Spectral analysis was used to break up the yarn irregularity into periodic, quasiperiodic, and random components for three different counts, namely 20 tex (30s Ne), 9.9 tex (60s Ne), 5.9 tex (100s Ne), spun at three different levels of drafts and four levels of top and bottom roller eccentricities, and their combinations. The periodic component increases nonlinearly at higher eccentricities and higher drafts and there is also an increase in quasiperiods. This behavior contradicts the commonly accepted theory of linear increase put forward by Foster. The thin and thick places in yarn increase nonlinearly, whereas single thread strength drops rapidly at higher levels of eccentricity and draft. Yam appearance grades deteriorate, particularly with increase in the periodic component. At comparable levels of irregularity, periodic component leads to a diamond barring effect, whereas existence of higher quasiperiods dampens the diamond bars by confounding the periodic component.
Migration and Location of Reagent Residues in Cotton Fabric
Authors: Bertoniere Noelie R. , King Walter D. , Rowland Stanley P.
Published: March 2008

To delineate the effect of migration to fabric surfaces during rapid drying on translocation of resin between warp and fill yarns, DMDHEU was applied to a series of fabrics with increasing fill thread count. Treated fabrics were dried under slow and rapid drying conditions which effect uniform and nonuniform distributions through the fabric thickness, respectively. The degree of crosslink uniformity (or nonuniformity) was measured with a Direct Red 81 staining technique. A fabric characterized by uniform crosslink distribution served as the point of reference. Nitrogen contents of the fabrics and of the isolated warp and fill yarns were determined. Translocation of resin during rapid drying was assessed by comparing these fabrics to the reference samples. Rapid drying caused translocation of resin towards those yarns that pre dominate in the effective evaporation surface. An extensive analysis of the relationship between resin translocation and fabric structure is reported.
Wind Induced Transfer of Water Vapor and Heat Through Clothing
Authors: Stuart I.M. , Denby E.F.
Published: March 2008

This paper describes a mechanism of heat and water vapor transfer through clothing. The flow of air past a clothed limb creates pressure differences round the surface. If the covering is permeable, ambient air will enter and air from the microclimate between skin and clothing will be extracted. A quantitative theory is developed and estimates are made of heat and water vapor transfer rates and also of the wind speeds at which the transfer rates from this mechanism equal the diffusion controlled rates.
An Imidazolidinone-Glyoxal Reactant for Cellulose
Authors: Frick J.G. , Harper Robert J.
Published: March 2008

2-Imidazolidinone (ethyleneurea) and glyoxal in an equimolar ratio formed a water soluble, polymeric adduct that was reactive to cellulose. As a formaldehyde-free fin ishing agent for cotton fabric, it gave high wrinkle recovery angles but relatively low durable press ratings. The finish showed moderately good hydrolysis resistance and caused little discoloration even when the agent was a crude reaction mixture.