bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
The Scale Substance of Wool
Authors: Geiger Walton B.
Published: March 2008

The scaly outer layer of wool fibers is commonly believed to protect them from injury and to assist in the felting process. Little is known about the composition of this layer because no ready means of separating it from the rest of the fiber has been available. Earlier work in this laboratory has shown that wool that has been reduced with thioglycolic acid and then alky lated with ethyl bromide is attacked by pepsin in such a, way that the scale material remains intact while the in terior of the fiber is completely dis solved. The composition of the scale material so obtained has now been studied. It has been found that it is essentially protein in nature and, al though it contains the same amino acids as the whole wool, the proportions of these in the two materials differ.
. Thermal Properties of Moist Fabrics
Authors: Hock Charles W. , Sookne Arnold W. , Harris Milton
Published: March 2008

The following article is a condensed report of studies conducted by re search associates of the Textile Foun dation, working at the National Bureau of Standards, Washington, D. C. The complete report appears in the current (May) issue of Journal of Research published by the Bureau.
Sound Velocity Measurements
Authors: Ballou J.W. , Silverman S.
Published: March 2008

A method for measuring the modu lus of elasticity of fibers and films by sonic means is described, and the results of an exploratory study of this modulus in various nat ural and synthetic fib ers and films are given. The method is based on the equation for the prop agation of longitudinal (sound) waves in elastic materials, which expresses the velocity of propa gation in terms of the elastic modulus and density of the me dium. The procedure involves measuring the sound velocity and calculating the modulus, using the proper density value. The modu lus so calculated is characteristic of a dynamic, essentially adiabatic, high-loading rate, short period measurement, since a sound fre quency of approximately 10,000 cycles per second was used. The range of moduli for common textile materials was from 1 X 1010 to 50 X 1010 dynes per square centi meter.
Research in the Physical Sciences
Authors: Taylor Hugh S.
Published: March 2008

The following abstract from an address presented by Dr. Taylor, Nov. 13, 1943, before the Autumn general meeting of the American Philosophical Society is of particular interest to the textile in dustry in view of its aroused participa tion in research. Dr. Taylor is a mem ber of the scientific advisory committee of the Textile Foundation, and of the Textile Research Institute, Inc. This address appears in full in the Society's "Proceedings," Vol. 87, No. 4.
Cotton Fiber Imperfections and Their Probable Relation to Yarn Quality
Authors: Harrison George J. , Craig Edna E.
Published: March 2008

In this paper the common imperfections occurring in cotton fibers have been studied in order to determine (1) the growth factors contributing to the formation of such imperfec tions and (2) the importance of imperfections as factors which contribute to neppiness in spun cotton.

An analysis was made of several hundred neps occurring in both carded and combed yarns which showed that they were composed of ten different elements. Although there is no con clusive proof that fiber imperfections are the cause of such neps it is shown that more neps contain immature fibers than any other element. It is also shown that fibers of large diameter and deformities are factors which contribute to neppiness and thus to spinning difficulties in greater proportion than their prevalence in cotton would indicate.
Selected References on Surface Chemistry and Physics
Authors: Dyer Agnes S. , Fischer Earl K.
Published: March 2008

This specialized bibliography is the first of its kind to appear in TEXTILE RE SEARCH JOURNAL. It was prepared to offer a listing of books and other primary references in a restricted field of inquiry which would serve as the basis for the accumulation of a company or personal library.

Similar treatment of other subjects is planned for future issues, and the Editor invites readers to send their comments on this type of expansion of the literature . service offered by the JOURNAL, particularly with respect to other fields of scientific, technological, manufacturing, and economic research with which the textile industry is concerned.
The Mechanical Properties of Textiles
Authors: Halsey George , Eyring Henry
Published: March 2008

This paper is concerned with the deformation of a number of essentially independent molecules or molecular segments distributed statistically with respect to the distance between the ends of the molecules. They are supposed to be free to assume many configurations ( as a result of thermal agitation) except at certain points which are stabilized by chemical forces to form the more or less tightly held ( and thus well-defined) ends of the molecules.

The problem solved here is as follows: Given an equilibrium distribution as a function of certain parameters, and given the expression for bulk properties in terms of molecular coordinates, what is the form of the tension as a function of the elongation and the various parameters?
Cellulose Studies
Authors: Van Fossen Paul , Pacsu Eugene
Published: March 2008

Oxidation of cotton by somewhat concentrated alkaline hypobromite solutions is non-selective and approaches the extent of a wet combustion. A method is pro posed for rapid determination of the composition of hypobromite-bromate mixtures.
Discussion of Published Papers
Authors: Schwarz E.R. , Krook Cyril M.
Published: March 2008

We are publishing this discussion of a paper which appeared in the November, 1945, issue of TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL in the belief that such discussion of papers will result in bringing out additional information with respect to a given subject. The JOURNAL will welcome constructive comments concerning papers which we publish. When possible, additional data from the correspondent's research should be incor porated. We, of course, reserve the right to decide whether such comments will or will not be published in this department.—Editor
Correlation of Equilibrium Moisture Data
Authors: Whitwell John C. , Tonert Richard K.
Published: March 2008

These equilibrium moisture regain studies were initiated in an attempt to extend the data on equilibrium moisture in textile fibers as determined by Wiegerink and others. In the course of the correlation, it became evident that further material of value to the general problem of drying and concentration could be extracted from these and related data by calculations dealing with water solutions and silica gel. The combined information is now presented without an attempt to include the extrapolations and corrections for all of the textile data.

The data are correlated by the use of Othmer charts. The constant regain lines on these charts are extended statistically to a common point of intersection charac teristic of any one fiber in any one process of sorption or desorption. The location of this common point is interpreted in light of the restriction of the water molecule on the fiber and the relative swelling property of the material. Regions of moisture regain are found which give conclusive evidence of pure adsorption uncomplicated by swelling.

Another paper, "Statistical Methods for Equilibrium Moisture Correlations," by Professors Whitwell and Toner and Mr. P. J. McCarthy, will appear in the July issue.
Determination of Statistical Control and Related Factors in the Performance of Breaking-strength Testing of Fabrics
Authors: Edelman Norman B.
Published: March 2008

A study of test results obtained by 50 operators, considered as a group, on meas uring the breaking strength of uniform twill fabric following a widely accepted "grab method" technique showed 26 percent of the operators to be out of statistical control.

It was found that those operators whose tensile testing was out of control had not met the two requirements of considerable experience and continual performance in textile testing.

Jaw breaks, which constitute about one-third of all the breaks performed, are shown to give more variable strengths and definitely lower average strengths than acceptable breaks, indicating that the jaws of the test machine contribute a weaken ing effect on the fabric and that jaw pressures should be known and regulated. Good operators (those in control) get practically the same number of jaw breaks as those out of control. A good operator will not necessarily get higher breaking strengths, or better types of breaks.
Solvent Extraction of Cotton Wax
Authors: Kettering James H. , Goldthwait Charles F. , Kraemer Rita M.
Published: March 2008

Solvent extractions of many samples of cotton showed that the usual methods of wax extraction are not always adequate for general use, particularly on cottons whose extractable matter has been changed by manufacturing operations such as the addition of spinning oil or warp size, or the removal of part of the wax by bleaching processes. The usual simple extractions may be satisfactory for routiue work on raw or processed cottons if the solvent is selected according to the type of cotton and to the purpose of the extraction. If, however, an accurate estimation of amount of wax is needed, a more inclusive method is desirable. The alcohol- chloroform extraction procedure developed by Conrad is shown to be such a method. Several of the various other methods of extraction discussed are more suitable for dewaxing cotton for special uses than for analysis for wax content.
Discussion of Published Papers
Authors: Engeler A.
Published: March 2008

In this department from time to time are published discussions of papers which have appeared in previous issues of this publication. These are presented in the belief that such discussion will result in bringing out additional information with respect to a given subject. The JOURNAL welcomes comments concerning papers which it publishes. When possible, additional data from the correspondent's re search should be incorporated. The editors of course reserve the right to decide whether comments will or will not be. published in this department.
Effect of Clamp Design on Fabric Breaking Strength
Authors: Kelly Warren T. , Hays Margaret B.
Published: March 2008

The strength values of 10 fabrics, determined by the grab and raveled-strip methods and measured with the new Scott 2-inch fabric clamp and the standard 1-inch fabric clamp, were studied.

It was found that the 2-inch fabric clamp did not give more accurate results although the number of jaw breaks was reduced 30 percent.
Improvements in the Acid-Hydrolysis Method of Determining the Crystallinity of Cellulose
Authors: Nelson Mary L. , Conrad Carl M.
Published: March 2008

In a study of the acid-hydrolysis method [5] for the determination of the degree of crystal linity of cellulose fibers, a technique has been developed for the solvent removal from the hydrolysis residues of all but traces of the humic substances which are formed from the soluble hydrolysis products and which interfere with the crystallinity determination.

Although ammonium hydroxide and pyridine were effective solvents, hot 50-percent aqueous monoethanolamine was found to be the most practicable means of removing these humic sub stances. Its effectiveness was demonstrated ( a) by showing that the weights of the extracted residues were the same as the weights of residues corrected by computations based on data from experiments with glucose; ( b) by varying the liquid-solid ratio during hydrolysis and showing the uniformity of the weights of the resulting ethanolamine-extracted residues; and (c) by obtaining equal extrapolated values for degree of crystallinity from parallel extracted and un extracted but mathematically corrected hydrolysis series.

Data are presented to show that preliminary extraction with either 1-percent sodium hydroxide or ethanolamine to remove the noncellulosic constituents does not change the crys tallinity values of samples of cotton and cotton linters.

A revised crystallinity procedure is described which incorporates the improvements de scribed above.
Thixotropic Viscoelastic Systems
Authors: Dunell Basil A. , Halsey George
Published: March 2008

An attempt is made to explain the thixotropic behavior of certain fibers when they are stretched by postulating a number of potential energy surfaces which may govern the nature of the viscous flow within the fiber. On the basis of these energy surfaces, equations are obtained relating rate of elongation and applied stress, and these equations are integrated numerically to give a relation ship between applied stress and actual elongation. The energy surface giving results which ap proach the results of actual experiment is a simple modification of the surface which Eyring used to explain shear flow in viscous materials [3].
The Sulfuric Acid Steep at Elevated Temperatures for Gray Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Hudson R.E. , Waddle Howard M.
Published: March 2008

The literature dealing with the effect of sulfuric acid on the constituents of raw cotton fiber has been reviewed. The constituents of starch slasher mixes have been noted.

The sulfuric acid steep has been studied at elevated temperatures in the laboratory. Under carefully controlled conditions the sulfuric acid steep may be conducted at elevated temperatures without fiber damage and with a considerable saving in time.
A Theory of Commercial Yarn Testing
Authors: Geyer Charles J. , Reichardt C.H. , Halsey George
Published: March 2008

A method has been devised for the application of the theory of the three-element shear model of Eyring and coworkers to textiles which does not necessitate the location of the "basic spring line" and thus is readily applicable to both yarn and fiber tests and to the commercial inclined-plane and pendulum-type testers. It is also applicable as a first approximation to those textiles which do not possess a "basic spring line" as such. The method employs the conven tional spring constants or elastic moduli but determination of the viscous constants involves the magnitude of the relaxation in constant-rate-of-elangation experiments (or the magnitude of the creep in constant-rate-of-loading experiments) from the upper envelope per interval of time. The relationship has been employed to establish the correlation between the viscoelastic prop erties of "slashed" and "unslashed" viscose tire-cord rayon yarns and also to show the identity of single-filament stress-strain relationships with those of yarns of normal twist of the same textile. The simplicity of technique which enables this method to be used as a routine labora tory test for the determination of the viscoelastic properties of textiles is an advantage over previous methods, which were often unsatisfactory from both a theoretical and an experimental viewpoint.
Cellulose Studies
Authors: Mehta P.C. , Pacsu Eugene
Published: March 2008

On the basis of their experiments, Pacsu and Hiller have shown that the classical concept of the structure of cellulose as built up from glucose anhydride residues connected by 1,4-β- glycosidic linkages is inadequate. They proposed that in cellulose there are units of about 260 glucose anhydride residues linked through 1,4-β-glycosidic bonds, these units being then con nected by hemiacetal or acetal bonds. The present experiments on the kinetics of heterogeneous hydrolysis of cellulose, in organic and inorganic acids, were conducted to test the validity of this concept. The results are: (1) an initial rapid hydrolysis down to a D.P. of about 260; k = 3.43 x 10-3 at 97° C, which is of a much higher order than the rate constant for hydrolysis of the 1,4-β-glycosidic bonds under similar conditions; (2) a practically complete stand still of the hydrolysis after the limiting D.P. of 260 is reached; (3) a negative value for the entropy of activation as calculated from Eyring's equation for absolute reaction rates, in con trast to the positive value obtained for the random hydrolysis of cellulose, starch, maltose, etc. Similar experiments on commercial viscose rayon showed hydrolysis to be at a uniform rate down to a D.P. of about 60, after which no appreciable change occurred.
Imparting Water-Repellency to Textiles by Chemical Methods
Authors: Schuyten H.A. , Reid J. David , Weaver J.W. , Frick John G.
Published: March 2008

The literature relating to the water-repellency of textile materials has been surveyed for those articles and patents dealing with the production of this property by chemical methods. The 332 pertinent references found have been abstracted and classified on the basis of the type of compound used to impart water-repellency. No attempt has been made at critical evaluation. Reactions, where known, have been described with the aid of equations. Additional references for collateral reading are given. An index which has been compiled of the chemical water-repellent agents proposed is being published by the U. S. Department of Agriculture as Research Publication AIC—179.
Taber Yarn-Sheet Abrasion Test
Authors: Hicks E.M. , Scroggie A.G.
Published: March 2008

A technique is described for the determination of yarn abrasion-resistance free from other wear factors such as flexibility, strength, elongation, and fabric construction. The procedure is based on a sheet of parallel yarns wound under controlled tension and subsequently abraded to failure on a Taber Abraser. The method has been used to evaluate the effect of yarn prop erties as well as fiber type on yarn abrasion-resistance. Results on yarns correlate well with the Taber abrasion-resistance of fabrics made from these yarns, and can be used to determine the inherent yarn abrasion-resistance without the necessitiy of fabric preparation.
An Application of Spectrophotometry in the Textile Industry: Testing Dyestuff Shipments
Authors: Mersereau E.P. , Barach J.L.
Published: March 2008

Newer spectrophotometric techniques for the absorption measurements of solutions of dyestuffs to determine their strengths are compared to the traditional methods of testing dye stuff shipments by visual appraisal of yarns or fabrics dyed by standard procedures. Sampling errors are measured and discussed in relation to a control-chart method of handling the resultant information. Various examples are cited.
A New Concept of the Mechanical Behavior of Fibers
Authors: Burte Harris , Halsey George , Dillon J.H.
Published: March 2008

The first portion, Part I, of this paper presents a review of the various theories of mechanical behavior of fibers. It is shown that the linear three-element model gives a fairly good qualitative description of relaxation, creep, and stress-strain phenomena. With this linear model extended to give a dis tribution of relaxation times, the time scales of the relaxation and creep functions are expanded to ranges which approach those observed experimentally. However, the more compli cated linear model is cumbersome, particularly when used to explain stress-strain data, and it does not yield the proper values of the elastic and viscous constants when the rate of strain is changed by a large factor. The three-element model with Hookean springs and Eyring dashpot is discussed, and it is shown that it accomplishes the extension of the time scale for relaxation and creep, and also yields relationships involving changes in the rate of elongation of stress-strain experiments which agree quite well with data on acetate rayon. The use fulness of graphical methods of analysis of stress-strain curves is pointed out. For other fibers, the agreement with experi ment is not so good. Efforts to generalize the Eyring model by considering the "energy barriers" to be asymmetric, em ployment of non-Hookean springs, and increasing the number of elements in the model have given better agreement of theory with experiment but leave much to be desired in the explana tion of the behavior of wool fibers.
Measurement of the Frictional Properties of Wool Fibers
Authors: Frishman Daniel , Smith Arthur L. , Harris Milton
Published: March 2008

The surface of a wool fiber consists of a series of overlapping scales so arranged that when the fiber is rubbed from the tip towards the root it is considerably rougher than when it is rubbed in the reverse direction. Accordingly, when a material containing wool fibers is sub mitted to mechanical action such as occurs in laundering or in fulling processes the fibers tend to migrate in the direction of their roots. This migration tendency is recognized as one of the principal factors in the formation of the entangled mass known as a felt, and in the excessive shrinkage which wool materials exhibit during laundering.

An instrument for measuring these surface frictional properties on individual fibers is described. Measurements made on many wool fibers indicate large variations in frictional properties. The relationship between friction and diameter was studied and no significant correlation was found. Measurements made in the dry state resulted in all cases in lower values than measurements made on the same fibers in the wet state. The coefficients of friction of a few varieties of wool and of human hair and mohair are described.
A. Method for the Electron Microscopy of Wool
Authors: Swerdlow Max , Seemant Gloria S.
Published: March 2008

A simplified method for making shadowed thermoplastic negative replicas of fibrous mate rials was developed. Through this technique fine details of the morphology of the wool fiber, before and after treatment, were clearly revealed by the electron microscope. The structural implications of the electron micrographs are discussed with respect to the subject of wear and with reference to the observations of other investigators.
Radiation Drying of Textiles
Authors: Paul George T. , Wilhelm Richard H.
Published: March 2008

This paper deals with radiation drying of woven and matted wool felts, of woven wool crepe, and of absorbent cotton batting. Radiant energy was supplied by R-40 electric lamps, and air conditions at the surface of the samples were controlled. Drying rate curves are analyzed in terms of drying mechanisms, and comparisons are made with convection drying by means of heated air. Among the variables discussed are air conditions, air velocity, intensity of radiant energy, sample thickness, optical properties of the materials being dried, and the initial regain.
A Modification of the Flat-Bundle Test Method for Testing Cotton-Fiber Strength
Authors: Phillips J.K.
Published: March 2008

A new testing technique is described in this paper which permits the use of the Pressley fiber jaws on the Scott I P-4 tester to measure the tensile strength of cotton fiber. This method also makes it possible to test the flat bundle at different test-specimen lengths or jaw spacings. Some data are included which show the effect of increase of test-specimen lengths on the tensile strength of cotton fiber and other textile fibers.
Retardation of Heat-Induced Strength Loss in Cotton Yarns by Liquid Ammonia Treatment
Authors: Moore Harry B.
Published: March 2008

Treatments of cotton in the form of yarns and rovings with liquid ammonia are described. Smaller loss of strength as a result of prolonged heating at 160°C was found in these treated yarns. Since no strength changes were found in the fibers, it is concluded that this was due to a greater tendency of the ammonia-treated cotton to curl and crinkle, which increases the friction between the fibers in the yarn.
Method for Evaluating the Elastic Properties of Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Fletcher Hazel M. , Hansen Arnold M. , Duensing Mary Ellen
Published: March 2008

A device is described which was designed and built primarily for evaluating the visco-elastic behavior of knitted fabrics. This apparatus can be used in measuring the stretch and elastic recovery of knitted materials in either the lengthwise or crosswise direction or in both directions simultaneously when various loads are applied.

Measurements made with this machine are presented which show the relationship between strain and elastic recovery in plain knit fabrics of cotton, nylon, rayon, and wool. Elastic re covery values as determined on the new device are considerably higher than those obtained with the incline-plane serigraph machine commonly employed in determining the breaking strength and elongation of yarns. This difference in values is due to the fact that in the method using the incline-plane machine only the recovery which occurs instantaneously is measured, whereas with the new device it is possible to determine the combined instantaneous and delayed recovery.
Formaldehyde Curing of Zein Fibers
Authors: Evans Cyril D. , Croston C. Bradford
Published: March 2008

Conditions necessary for the rapid formaldehyde curing of zein fibers were investigated and a continuous two-stage curing process was developed. The first stage (precuring) consists of a mild cure to introduce approximately 0.75 percent formaldehyde into the fiber and produces, after stretching, a fine-diameter fiber of exceptional strength and elasticity. The second stage (post-curing) consists of a strong cure to introduce about 3.0 percent additional formaldehyde into the stretched fiber to stabilize its length.

Formaldehyde is bound under both alkaline and acid conditions, but it is only under acid conditions that any curing occurs. Ammonium salts act as catalysts for the reaction in the pH range 0 to 4 and the resulting fibers are stable to boiling in mild alkali. When cured under highly acidic conditions (below pH 0), the fibers are stable to both acid and alkaline boiling.
Easier Grade Determination by Measurement in Wool Top
Authors: Wadley F.M. , Pohle Elroy M. , Mueller Werner A.
Published: March 2008

This paper is a discussion on the determination of the grade of wool top using sequential sampling, thereby minimizing the sample sizes. Industrial firms con ducting fineness testing and wool-grade variability determination will be interested in this presentation and approach, which is suggestive of considerable time-saving analysis.— Editor
The Effect of Variations in Degree of Structural Order on Some Physical Properties of Cellulose and Cellulose Acetate Yarns
Authors: Workt Robert W.
Published: March 2008

It is shown by means of x-ray diffraction diagrams that cotton, a highly crystalline and oriented material, gives a triacetate of low crystallinity which may be rendered more crys talline by annealing. This triacetate is partially hydrolyzed to form the secondary cellulose acetate used in textile yarns, which gives an x-ray pattern showing a highly amorphous structure. Although steric effects prevent increases in crystallinity by annealing, this type of yarn can be oriented, the degree of orientation depending upon the conditions under which stretching of the yarn takes place. By swelling and allowing limited mobility, this orienta tion may be increased over that produced by dry stretching. Cellulose acetate fibers may be converted into highly crystalline celluloses, the orientation of the original material carrying over into a hydrolyzed product. The load-elongation characteristics of families of these 2 types of yarns are described and the effects of orientation are discussed. The decrease in lateral strength, due to orientation, is illustrated by means of electron micrographs of the material. The relationship between orientation in series of cellulose acetate and correspond ing cellulose yarns having greater or lesser degrees of orientation and the sonic moduli of these materials are illustrated. Possible explanations are suggested. Dye retention simi larities between mature cotton and slightly oriented cellulose yarn on one hand and immature cotton and unoriented cellulose yarn on the other hand are given to indicate that orientation may be one basic difference between mature and immature cottons.
The Fungi Concerned in Fiber Deterioration
Authors: Marsh P.B. , Bollenbacher K. , Butler M.L. , Raper K.B.
Published: March 2008

On the basis of a survey of the literature and of test results here reported on more than 400 fungus isolates, cellulose-decomposing activity is shown to be very widely distributed but not universal among the fungi. It occurs with a high degree of regularity among isolates of certain genera- e.g., Alternaria, Chaetomium, Curvularia, Fusarium, Gliomastix, Helmintho sporium, Humicola, Memnoniella, Stachybotrys, and Trichoderma, and probably with equal fre quency in other genera which have not been so extensively studied. It occurs in a greater or smaller number of species in many of the several groups or subdivisions of the genus Aspergillus but apparently not in all of them, in a much smaller but rather widely diverse group of species in the genus Penicillium, apparently not at all in Mucor, Rhizopus, and other genera of the Mucoraceae, and probably only rarely among the actinomycetes.

Tests on Cladosporium herbarum show that the temperature optima for growth of isolates of this fungus are in general distinctly below the approximately 30°C used by several other workers in experiments with it; this fact is believed to account, at least in part, for the poor cellulose-decomposing activity shown by it in their tests. Tests on Pullularia pullulans have failed to detect cellulolytic activity.
Wool Damage Data
Authors: LaFleur Kermit S.
Published: March 2008

Rough categories into which wool damage may be classified for study include hydrolysis, reduction and oxidation effects, and incipient decomposition caused by exposure to light or high temperatures in the presence of air. Data have been accumulated which describe some specific effects obtained by treating woolen swatches in boiling water as a function of time, in boiling acid (sulfuric) or alkaline (sodium hydroxide) solutions over a wide pH range, in boiling reducing (thioglycollic acid, zinc formaldehyde sulfoxylate) or oxidizing (hydrogen peroxide) solutions over a wide rH range, and upon drying at 260°F for periods ranging to 128 hours. Quantitative measures of wool damage which have been used include loss of weight, area shrink age, alkali solubility, wettability in water and 0.1 N sodium hydroxide, and loss of tensile strength.
Correlation of Simulated Rainfall Tests with Laboratory Penetration Tests
Authors: Landsberg M.I. , Kelly Roger , Sinski Dorothy
Published: March 2008

In an effort to establish a relationship between the length of time a garment will keep the wearer dry and laboratory tests of the fabric from which that garment was made, the study described in this report was undertataken. Since the rainroom has been recognized as a valid testing device, a correlation between rainroom re sults and data obtained by the much simpler and more economical laboratory tests should in most cases furnish an accurate method of predicting the performance of a garment under conditions of actual wear. This study shows that it is possible to estimate from the results of laboratory penetration tests the most probable rain room protection time of a fabric treated with a durable water-repellent compound.
The Autoxidation of Alkali Cellulose
Authors: Entwistle D. , Cole E.H. , Wooding N.S.
Published: March 2008

The kinetics of the uncatalyzed oxidation of alkali cellulose by molecular oxygen (autoxida tion) have been studied. It is shown that a linear relationship exists between the copper num ber of cellulose regenerated from a freshly prepared alkali cellulose and the initial rate of autoxidation of the alkali cellulose. As reaction proceeds, however, the rate approaches a constant value which, under given conditions, is independent of the initial copper number. Peroxides are formed during the reaction, to an extent which is dependent upon trace concen trations of various heavy metals. The effects of temperature, oxygen pressure, and alkali cellulose composition on reaction rate are discussed. The results are consistent with the present picture of autoxidation processes being free-radical-propagated chain reactions.
The Spectrophotometer as an Aid to Dyeing
Authors: Simon Frederick T.
Published: March 2008

Dyeing as it is known today in the textile industry is a technical process which has recently graduated from the stage of being an art to becoming a science. The primary thing responsible for this change is the control of the variables in the process. The spectrophotometer is a physi cal tool which is eminently suited to measure the most important variable of all, the shade and strength of the dyestuffs themselves, whether they be in solution or on the fiber. The general principle of operation of several of these instruments is explained. In practical applications of color measurement, some of the techniques employed to obtain and translate spectrophotometric data into useful information are discussed. Examples of these are standardization of both water soluble and certain insoluble dyes; measurement of production dye-mixture solutions and print pastes in order to control the color before their use on fabric; qualitative and quantitative esti mation of dyes on the fiber; and study of the mechanism of the dyeing process itself.
Levelness of Acid Wool Dyes: The Application of Laboratory Tests to Production
Authors: Leonard E.A. , Lathrop G.A. , Mersereau E.P.
Published: March 2008

A quantitative laboratory method for evaluating levelness of acid wool dyes is described. The procedure consists of running half of a normal yarn-dye cycle and then making additions of white yarn and dye liquor equal in amount to those in the original batch. The second half of the cycle is then run, and the yarns are removed. Reflectances of the two dyed yarns are determined on a G. E. recording spectrophotometer and a "levelness index" is calculated as the ratio of dye concentration on the yarn added at the mid-point of the cycle to that on the yarn started at the beginning of the cycle.

The technical background of the test method is outlined and the results of tests on repre sentative dyes are tabulated. It is shown that the test method has sufficient flexibility to permit examinations of the effects of dyeing variables on levelness. An example is cited showing the effect of salt concentration on levelness of Alizarine Cyanine Green CG ex. (C. I. 1078).

The example above is applied to plant production, and the levelness of 500-pound Hussong stock-dyed batches is evaluated by spectrophotometer reflectances, converted to dye concen tration, of stratified samples from the batches of stock. It is shown that the coefficient of dye concentration variation among the 8 samples from a plant batch is proportional to the laboratory "levelness index."
Laboratory Techniques
Authors: Douglass Pritchard C. , Crossmon Germain C.
Published: March 2008

The "dispersion staining" method is used for observing textile fibers in colors which aid in the determination of their structure and in their identification. Fibers which are classified as striated or microscopically structureless are distinguished by this technique without the need for any special preparation of the fiber. A sample is mounted in a liquid of high dispersion which has a refractive index near that of the fiber and the fiber is identified by the resulting coloration, using an ordinary compound microscope set-up for dark-field illumination.
Cellulose Studies
Authors: Mehta P.-C. , Pacsu Eugene
Published: March 2008

For the determination of the degree of polymolecularity in acid-modified celluloses the nitrates of hydrocelluloses from native cotton, surgical cotton, and viscose rayon were frac tionated from dilute acetone solutions. The results indicate that a large proportion of the hydro celluloses are uniform in that almost 33% of the methanolyzed native cotton consists of mole cules with D.P. 252, about 70% of the hydrocellulose from surgical cotton has D.P. 260, and some 36% of the material from viscose rayon possesses D.P. 62. Moreover, the most important fractions were found to be integral multiples of the assumed "limit hydrocellulose" with D.P. 64. Integral- and mass-distribution curves were constructed from the experimental data according to the procedure outlined by Schulz and were compared with the theoretical mass-distribution curves calculated on the basic assumption of random hydrolysis of a long-chain molecule with uniform hydrolyzable bonds. In all three cases the experimental curves show pronounced peaks, which can be readily interpreted only on the basis of the new concept of cellulose structure.
The Flow Properties of Fibers
Authors: Rossmassler Stephen A. , Eyring Henry
Published: March 2008

A sinusoidal rate of loading is one of the less common ways of testing fibers. A mathematical treatment of the behavior of visco-elastic materials under such conditions is developed, and this theory is applied to data obtained using Nylon 66 monofils. The results indicate that the sig nificant values for the flow process are dependent on the frequency of vibration. An experimental method of obtaining the data necessary is described.
Direct Steam-Injection Continuous Starch-Cooker
Authors: Rainard L.W. , Zanolli G.
Published: March 2008

A number of different continuous starch-cooking devices are available for the production of starch-based textile pastes and sizes. This paper discusses the advantages and operation of a simple, direct steam-injection type made from standard piping. Characteristics of pastes produced with this type of cooker are also discussed.
Mechanics of Elastic Performance of Textile Materials
Authors: Platt Milton M.
Published: March 2008

Stress-analysis methods for textile materials are illustrated through a study of the forces pro duced when a continuous-filament yarn is stressed in tension. It is shown that the effects of yarn twist and yarn size on the tensile properties of singles continuous-filament yarns depend upon the stress distribution. Mathematical formulas are derived to express variations in tensile character istics, both for one-time loading to rupture and repeated stress, as a function of yarn geometry. The influence of fiber inherent properties is described and illustrated by experimental data ob tained for viscose rayon, acetate rayon, and nylon of various singles geometry.
The Thermodynamics of One-Component and Two-Component Elastic Systems
Authors: Katz Sidney M.
Published: March 2008

The thermodynamic analysis of stress in one-component, one-phase elastic systems is reviewed, and it is suggested that the stress be evaluated in terms of entropy and enthalpy contributions. The analysis is then extended to two-component, two-phase systems, and the necessary equations are derived. By so doing, the temperature effect on swelling is taken into account. In addition, the basic hypotheses of the kinetic theory of rubber elasticity are shown to lead to conclusions which are thermodynamically impossible.
Selection of Electric Drives for Looms
Authors: Demartini R.J. , Lukens A.F.
Published: March 2008

This paper outlines a method for calculating requirements of the drive for a weaving loom from knowledge of system constants and without the necessity for extensive testing. When elec trical testing is performed the pulsating character of the load must be taken into account in selection of instruments and in interpretation of data. The value of inertia in the successful drive also is discussed.
Degradation of Cellulose as Revealed Microscopically
Authors: Hock Charles W.
Published: March 2008

Because natural cellulose is fundamentally fibrous, degradation—be it caused by chemical agents such as acids and alkalies, by physical agents such as grinding and ultrasonic vibration, or by biological agents such as molds and bacteria—proceeds in a manner which reflects this basic fibrillate structure. The dimensions of the threadlike fibrils into which cellulose breaks down vary, depending upon the severity of the treatment and perhaps also on innate differences among celluloses from various sources. Following degradative action, light microscopy reveals fibrils of the order of several tenths of a micron in diameter. At the higher magnifications obtainable with the electron microscope, still finer fibrils, a few hundred Ångströms wide, are detectable. Certain degradative treatments cause a further transverse splitting of these fibrils into rod-shaped structures.

From x-ray and chemical investigations it is known that cellulose is made up of long-chain molecules whose arrangement with respect to one another gives rise to more or less ordered but poorly reactive crystalline regions and to disordered but easily reactive amorphous regions. Since microscopical studies show that many reactions proceed more easily in the regions between the fibrils than within the fibrils themselves, it appears that the crystalline cellulose is located principally in the fibrils, whereas the interfibrillar regions compose, in large measure, the amorphous fraction.
Measurement and Theory of Absorbency of Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Buras Edmund M. , Goldthwait Charles F. , Kraemer Rita M.
Published: March 2008

High and uniform absorbency of cotton fabrics is a desirable quality in nearly every wet- finishing operation and in many finished fabrics; yet absorbency-measuring tests which have been employed up to the present time are largely inadequate and arbitrary. A test method is described here which is more suitable in that it meets the requirements of wetting the fabric quickly from one side while it is under pressure and allowing the comparison of different fabrics in a readily understandable manner.

Using a glass filtering funnel to provide a wet porous plate and a flowmeter for measuring rates, the apparatus is easily assembled and calibrated. The test is simple and rapid and per mits numerical evaluation of both rate of absorption and total or ultimate absorption, largely independently of apparatus characteristics. The separate evaluation of these absorbency factors and the elimination of timing procedures set this test apart from those previously published. The method is readily adaptable to the investigation of many liquid-absorbent relationships. Application of the test to the evaluation of absorbency of purified cotton fabrics has led to a plausible explanation of their absorption behavior as being due largely to spaces within the fabric rather than to absorption characteristics of the fiber itself.
Some Comparisons of Fiber "Fineness" Measurements
Authors: Calkins Edward W. S.
Published: March 2008

Interlaboratory check tests show excellent correlation between our homemade air-per meability instrument and both the University of Tennessee's "Arealometer" and an air-per meability instrument in another laboratory. From similar results reported by other investigators for their own instruments, it is concluded that any instrument of this type if properly calibrated can do a good job of measuring surface area.†

Comparison of data found in the literature on normal fiber perimeter, wall thickness, sur face area, and weight per inch with calculated values indicates that all laboratory measurements of fiber dimensions are surprisingly accurate and consistent. Drawings of fiber cross sections with various combinations of dimensions indicate that fibers with the same surface area are most alike in appearance and ought to be more alike in their spinning behavior than those selected for uniformity by any other fineness measurement. A chart is given (Figure 5) from which any two of the four fineness variables can be read if the other two are known.

It is. shown that fibers of the same surface area may vary widely in weight per inch, and that no conversion from surface area to weight per inch can be accurate unless one other variable is held constant. This may be either wall thickness, fiber diameter, or their ratio, usually called "maturity."
The Swelling of Cotton in Water
Authors: Moore Anna T. , Scott Lorraine W. , deGruy Ines V. , Rollins Mary L.
Published: March 2008

A method is described for comparing microscopically the cross-sectional areas of the same cotton fiber in wet and dry conditions, for evaluation of swelling. Results indicate the change in cross-sectional area of raw cotton fibers to be between 21 % and 34% of the dry area regardless of variety of cotton or degree of maturity of the fiber. Immature samples show slightly less mean swelling than mature samples, but this is believed to be due to the presence of fibers with no secondary thickening at all which tend to shrink in cross-sectional area rather than swell. In the immature fibers deformation (defined as change in circularity) is slightly more than that of mature fibers. This, coupled with the fact that in a given weight of immature fibers there are approximately twice as many fibers as in a like weight of mature fibers, helps to explain the greater closing capacity of yarns made from immature cotton. Flax and a sample of viscose rayon show twice the swelling of cotton, Fortisan two-thirds as much, and nylon no cross- sectional swelling at all.
Conversion of the Saco-Lowell Sliver Tester to Electrical Recording
Authors: Rusca Ralph A.
Published: March 2008

The theory and mechanics of converting a Saco-Lowell sliver tester from a graphic-recording instrument to one which records by means of electrical counters are described. General design of the equipment is discussed and photographs of the machine are included. Experience with the converted instrument since March, 1949, indicates that it provides a worth-while improvement in accuracy and in speed of analyzing the uniformity of sliver and heavy roving.
An Investigation of Fabric Structure and Its Relation to Certain Physical Properties
Authors: Hottet G.H.
Published: March 2008

This research is concerned with the study of the breaking load and ultimate elongation charac teristics of combination fabrics as a function of the load-elongation characteristics of their com ponent fabrics.
Mechanical Hysteresis Properties of Single Fibers and Cords
Authors: Wakeham Helmut , Honold Edith
Published: March 2008

An apparatus for stretching and relaxing single fibers for the purpose of determining mechanical hysteresis losses is described. Results obtained on cotton, viscose rayon, and nylon fibers are compared with similar data previously obtained on cords from which the fibers were taken. Such comparison indicates that interfiber friction is probably the major cause of hysteresis energy losses in cotton and rayon tire cords under cyclic loads at low frequencies.
The Rate of Drying of Fabrics
Authors: Fourt Lyman , Sookne Arnold M. , Frishman Daniel , Harris Milton
Published: March 2008

It is frequently stated that one fabric dries faster than another, usually with reference to house hold conditions of drying on a line. However, the data of this report show that by and large all fabrics dry at the same rate under these conditions (rate being expressed as weight of water evaporating per unit area per unit time), but that the time of drying depends upon the amount of water originally held, so that some fabrics dry sooner than others. The main portion of the drying time shows this constant rate of drying, although there is a final period which is short compared to the main drying period, during which the rate of drying decreases.

The water-holding capacity of a fabric depends upon how the fabric is supported (vertically or horizontally) and upon the mechanical treatment given to remove water. For simple drainage in the vertical position, the water-holding capacity of small samples is more closely correlated with fabric thickness than with fabric weight. The kind of fiber—i.e., wool or cotton-and large differ ences in moisture affinity, as shown with Vinyon, also affect the water-holding capacity. How ever, these factors have almost no effect on rate of drying, since this is controlled by the resistance of air layers to the passage of heat. The thickness of these air layers is sufficient under ordinary conditions to smooth-over the fabric surface irregularities, even when these are rather large, as in rib knits or in cellular or waffle fabrics.

Increasing the hairiness of the surface in order to give more area for evaporation is sometimes proposed as a means of increasing the drying rate, but results show that this is without effect except for extremely high, open naps, for which the effect is the opposite-the thickness of the layers of still air is increased and the drying retarded.