bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Disperse Dyes on Hydrophobic Fibres
Authors: BIRD C. L.
Published: July 2010

Although disperse dyeing appears at first sight to be very different from the application of dyes which are readily soluble in water, closer study shows that the two processes are in fact similar. But disperse dyes are not ionised, and dyeing does not depend on the presence of salt‐forming groups in the fibre molecule, so disperse dyeing systems are much easier to treat theoretically than the older systems. In spite of the absence of ionising sulpho groups in the dye molecule, disperse dyes are not completely insoluble in water. They diffuse into the fibre from a very dilute aqueous solution, which, as dye is removed from solution by the fibre, is replenished owing to the presence of fine particles of suspended dye. At equilibrium a linear relationship is found between dye on the fibre and dye in the bath, so the dyeing process resembles the partition of a solute between two immiscible solvents.
A Study of the Photochemistry of Dyes on Proteins and other Substrates
Authors: CUMMING J. W. , GILES C. H. , McEachran A. E.
Published: July 2010

The rates of oxidation and of reduction in aqueous solution, and of fading in films of a typical protein (gelatin) and a typical non‐protein (methylethylcellulose), have been determined for several series of dyes of different chemical classes. The general conclusion reached is that the photodegradation of a dye may follow either of the alternative mechanisms of oxidation or reduction, but normally oxidation occurs more readily on all non‐proteins and reduction on proteins. In photochemical oxidation of dyes on non‐proteins the substrate does not necessarily take part directly, but in reduction on proteins some constituent of the protein itself appears to act as the reducing agent. The histidine side‐chains are probably the active constituent.

The conclusions in some instances have been confirmed by examination of spectral absorption curves of oxidation, reduction, and fading products of certain dyes.
Fibro and Fibrolane in the Carpet Trade with particular reference to Dyeing
Authors: CHEETHAM R. C.
Published: July 2010

The impact of man‐made fibres on the carpet trade is discussed, and the desirable attributes of a carpet fibre are suggested. The properties and the performance of viscose rayon staple (Fibro) and regenerated protein staple (Fibrolane) are then considered in detail, some indication being given of the relative advantages of these fibres as well as any apparent disadvantages. The methods being developed to overcome these disadvantages include modifications to fibre structure as in crimped Fibro and Fibre M 55 and also treatments designed to reduce rate of soiling. Suggestions are then made regarding the composition of man‐made fibre blends and reference is made to spun‐dyed staple.

The scouring and the dyeing of blends consisting of Fibro and/or Fibrolane are then considered, detailed methods and selections of dyes being given for the various staples and yarns. Particular reference is made to the effect of denier on dyeing rate as it affects both staple and yarn. The absorption of direct dyes by protein blends containing Fibro is shown to follow similar lines to that by Fibro itself, but certain special considerations apply. Finally, brief reference to the dyeing of tufted carpets is followed by a summary of progress.
The Determination of Damage to Wool Fibres
Authors: Brown J. C.
Published: July 2010

Testa for chemical damage to the wool fibre are classified according to the type of modification measured. Microscopical and staining tests are discussed, and a new test for alkaline damage is described. The swelling of wool fibres in aqueous buffer solutions has been accurately measured using a centrifuge technique under easily reproducible controlled conditions. Rupture of disulphide bonds by alkaline modification has been shown to lead to a rapid increase in percentage swelling, which can be used as a measure of damage. A slight proportional decrease in swelling capacity results from dyeing, and an interesting distinction has been made between neutral‐dyeing metal‐complex dyes and other types of wool dyes. Chrome dyeings possess greater resistance to alkaline attack than undyed wools.
Publications Sponsored By The Society's Fastness Tests Co‐Ordinating Committee—XXVI The Measurement of Colour Fastness to Steam Pleating
Authors: Subcommittee Pleating Fastness
Published: July 2010

The Pleating Fastness Subcommittee has studied the problem of testing the fastness of coloured textiles to steam pleating processes and has devised a suitable test method. There is good correlation between the results of the test and those produced in practical pleating. A simple piece of apparatus has been designed to maintain close and even contact between the test pattern and adjacent undyed fabrics. Any staining of these adjacent fabrics takes place uniformly, and reliable assessment of the degree of staining can be made. A range of steaming conditions has been chosen to cover all fibres. The test has been adopted as an I.S.O. Tentative Test, the only modification being the addition of two extra steaming conditions.
Optical Studies: I–Relation of Colour to the Apparent Soilability of Textile Materials
Authors: MANN H. B. , MORTON T. H.
Published: July 2010

The apparent degree of soiling of a coloured object is a matter of subjective assessment, but is, as we have been able to show with a group of observers, closely paralleled by the physical quantity Hs, the diminution (%) in the brightness coefficient of the surface–Hs = YO−YS/YO×100

A study of soiled coloured starch has indicated the possibility of relating Hs and hence degree of apparent soiling to the physical concentration of soil and the reflectance spectrum of the original surface. It is possible to compute from the spectrum a characteristic empirical quantity, the Sim value, which ranks the coloured material in order of relative apparent unsoilability in a series of materials, similar in structure but differing in colour. The derivation of SMR values for coloured starch involves no optical hypothesis, and the generalisation to fibrous materials depends only on the essential optical similarities of the systems. Full practical details, with tabulated data, are given for the determination of the SME values of coloured fibres. The conclusions are discussed with special reference to the behaviour of carpets made from viscose rayon staple.
The Mechanism of the Dyeing of Polyester Fibres with Disperse Dyes
Authors: Glenz O. , Beckmann W. , Wulder W.
Published: July 2010

Measurements of the diffusion coefficients and saturation values of seventeen disperse dyes on Dacron polyester fibre under dyeing conditions seem to indicate that the differences in diffusion coefficient between the individual dyes are mainly due, after elimination of geometrical effects, to energy effects associated with the formation of hydrogen bonds, the dye being the proton donor. The efficiencies of three different carriers were approximately the same if equimolar quantities were present inside the fibre.
The Supercontraction of Wool Fibres by Aromatic Compounds
Authors: Ceewther W. G.
Published: July 2010

The kinetics of supereontraetion of wool fibres have been investigated using solutions of phenol and other aromatic compounds over a large range of concentrations and pH. The evidence shows that the phenolate ion together with its associated cation is more effective than the un‐ionised form of phenol in causing supercontraction of wool fibres. However, the un‐ionised form of phenol also causes contraction, and is chiefly responsible for contraction of the wool at low pH values. It is suggested that the two forms of phenol cause contraction of wool fibres by different mechanisms.
Relation of Apparent Diffusion Coefficient to the Time of Half‐dyeing
Authors: Kilby W. F.
Published: July 2010

The relationship of the time of half‐dyeing to the fractional exhaustion of a finite dyebath is considered in detail. The implications of these considerations for the theory and practice of dyeing are discussed with particular emphasis on dyeing from small volumes.
New Observations on the Tippy Dyeing of Wool
Authors: Hadfield H. R. , Lemin D. R.
Published: July 2010

New information on the relation between dye constitution and behaviour in dyeing skittery wools is provided. It is shown that the production of skittery dyeings depends upon (a) the hydro‐phiiic/hydrophobic properties of the wool surface and (b) the hydrophilic/hydrophobic balance of the dye. Information on the hydrophilic nature of the. wool surface was obtained by contact angle measurements and on the hydrophobic properties of the dye by measurements of partition between water and butyl alcohol saturated with water.
Stripping of Procion Dyes from Cotton for Investigation of Faults
Authors: Nevell T. P.
Published: July 2010

Procion‐dyed cotton that is insoluble in cuprammonium hydroxide may be rendered soluble by treating it in boiling 4% sodium carbonate solution, thus enabling its fluidity to be determined. By means of hot 40% aqueous hydrazine, all except one of twenty Procion dyes examined may be completely stripped from cotton without degrading it. Cloth stripped in this way is suitable for fluidity determinations and for re‐dyeing for testing purposes.

Some of the experimental work was done by Miss V. A. Morris and Miss D. M. Wynne.
A Computed Colour Catalogue of Fibre Blends and its Use in Match Prediction
Authors: Miller A. , Moir J. , Guthrie J. C. , Oliver P. H.
Published: July 2010

A catalogue of approximately 57,000 colours has been calculated, based on pigmented viscose rayon staple of 22 different colours. The catalogue is in two parts; the first provides the resultant colour of a blend of either two or three colours and the second enables match predictions to be made. The procedure is to measure tristimulus values X, Y, and Z on a colorimeter, look up these values in the catalogue, and obtain immediately one or more blends that will be approximate matches to the pattern. If this match is not good enough, the catalogue can be used to obtain a corrected recipe. Details are given of the calculation of the catalogue, and of factors that affect the limits of accuracy attainable when the catalogue is used in match prediction.
Fading of the British Dyed‐wool Light‐fastness Standards in the U.K.: Some Energy Measurements
Authors: Rawland Miss O.
Published: July 2010

The relation between the fading of the British dyed‐wool light‐fastness standards in the U.K. and the amount of solar radiation required to produce the fading has been investigated. It has been shown that the successive standards require exposures to quantities of solar radiation which increase, in general, by a factor of two, but there is a considerable range of energy values for any one standard, this range being great enough to permit some overlapping. It is suggested that this may be because the Eppley pyrhelio‐meter records all radiant solar energy, whereas only a fraction, which may be variable, is operative in the fading of the standards.
Variations in Assessment of Light Fastness and in Rates of Fading and Spacing of the Blue Standards
Authors: Jaeckel S. M. , Ward C. D. , Hutchings D. M.
Published: July 2010

Variations in visual assessments of fastness to light, and in rates of fading and spacing of the blue light‐fastness standards, are discussed. Comparisons are made of the effect of sample size, seasonal variations, and visual and colorimetric assessments. Assessment varies more with observer than with pattern size. Standards above 3 are spaced irregularly. The average spacing of Standards 1–6 is by a factor greater than 2. Luminous flux and radiant energy requirements for fading calculated in different ways differ seriously. Although colorimetric estimates of fading based on graphical transformations of MacAdam ellipses agree fairly well with visual assessment, the correlation differs from colour to colour.
The Practical Exploitation of Instrumental Match Prediction
Authors: Alderson J. V. , Atherton E. , Preston C. , Tough D.
Published: July 2010

Instrumental match prediction based on the spectrophotometer, the tristimulus colorimeter, and the digital computer has been applied to a wide range of fabrics, using Procion dyes applied by a wide variety of dyeing methods, and to mass‐pigmented viscose rayon. The technique described produces satisfactory matches in a very much shorter time than by traditional colour‐matching methods. The accuracy is such that commercially acceptable matches can he obtained with no more than one shading addition. The implications of these findings for the immediate future are discussed.
Notes on the Prevention and Rectification of Faults in Dyed and Finished Wool Pieces
Authors: Slack I. S.
Published: July 2010

Some of the many faults likely to be revealed when dyeing wool pieces are discussed. These faults may be clue to natural causes or to faulty processing before dyeing, or they may result from unsatisfactory treatment in the dyehouse. Various precautionary measures are proposed and suggestions are made for dealing with these faults.
The light Fastness of Yellow Wools
Authors: Derbyshire A. N. , Lemin D. R.
Published: July 2010

Naturally yellow and artificially yellowed wools fade rapidly whiter on short exposure to light. This fading of the substrate can result in the apparently poor light‐fastnessproperties of dyes applied to yellow wool. Bleaching results in wools which show the effect to a smaller extent, but subsequent dyeing causes partial reversion of the colour. Theaddition of small amounts of suitable mild reducing agents to dyebaths may result in whitening of yellow wool and a reduced tendency to rapid fading of the substrate, although this effect was not completely eliminated with the agents studied. It is suggested that themost practical method of eliminating trouble arising from the rapid fading of yellow woolwhen producing pale, bright dyeings is to use as naturally white a wool as possible.
The Effect of Wool Quality and Packing on Flow and Level Dyeing in Hank‐dyeing Machines
Authors: Derbyshire A. N. , Lemin D. R.
Published: July 2010

Liquor circulation has been measured in single‐stick and double‐stick hank‐dyeing machines under various loading conditions. This has shown the dependence of flow on the weight of yarn, and also on the quality of the wool and the count of the yarn. Measurements of dye‐liquor concentration in different areas of the load in this type of machine have shown marked variations in flow in these areas during the early stages of dyeing. An approximate theoretical treatment has related the probability of obtaining a level result with dyes of poor migration properties to the overall circulation rate and to the rate of dyeing of the dyes used.
Photodegradation and Yellowing of Polyamides
Authors: MAREK B. , LERCH E.
Published: July 2010

Dicarbonyl compounds, e. g. dialdehydes and γ–diketones, formed during the exposure of nylon 6. 6 fabrics and of various polyamide model compounds in a Fade–Ometer, can be regarded as intermediates in the yellowing of photodegraded polyamides. They react easily with substances containing free amino groups to form pyrroles, which are primarily responsible for the yellowing. The mechanism of formation of the dicarbonyl compounds during photodegradation is discussed. The sensitivity of a photodegraded nylon 6. 6 fabric to yellowing on storage, as well as in various treatments, has been studied.
Dye Fixation by means of Polyfunctional Cross–linking Agents
Authors: LÜTZEL G.
Published: July 2010

Covalent bonds can be established under alkaline conditions between cellulose and dyes containing nucleophilic groups by employing cross–linking agents which are able to provide several positively charged carbon atoms. Examples are given of various cross–linking agents and dyes. The reaction gives a high colour yield and is the basis for the new Basazol (BASF) range of dyes. These dyes give strong prints on cotton and regenerated cellulose fibres, and possess good fastness properties.
The Diffusion of Disperse Dyes in Polymer Films
Authors: McGregor R. , Peters R. H. , Ramachandran C. R.
Published: July 2010

The diffusion of disperse dyes in various polymer films has been studied by a microdensitometric technique. The films were dyed in aqueous dye dispersions, in presence and in absence of dyeing accelerants, and in solutions of dye in organic solvents. Dyeing of appropriately pretreated films conformed to the model of Fickian sorption, whereas dyeing of polymer films in the presence of dyeing accelerants showed in some instances marked deviations from this model. These results are discussed in terms of modern theories of diffusion.
A Laboratory Study of Dry Chlorination of Wool at Atmospheric Pressure II—Evaluation of Treated Wool
Authors: BAIRD K. , NORDON P. , FOULDS R. A.
Published: July 2010

Wool dry‐chlorinated in the laboratory plant described in Part I of this study was subjected to three tests. Degradation of the treated wool was assessed by load‐extension measurements on single fibres. Batches of treated wool were converted into knitted fabrics and handle and washing shrinkage tests were carried out on the fabrics. The treatment only slightly affected the elastic behaviour of single wool fibres, indicating insignificant degradation of the fibre. The best shrink resistance was obtained under conditions that also caused greatest deterioration in handle.
Peroxide Bleaching of Different Wools
Authors: Cegarra J. , Ribé J. , Gacén J.
Published: July 2010

The influence of the initial degree of whiteness of some wools on the whites obtained on bleaching has been studied. Bleaching under industrial conditions has only a slight effect on the differences in whiteness of the wools. The stability and sensitivity of bleached wools to different treatments that cause yellowing have been studied. The differences between the effects of these treatments, and the influence of the initial degree of whiteness and the bleaching method used on the stability and sensitivity of the white obtained, are examined.
The Photochemistry of Dyes II—Some Aspects of the Fading Process
Authors: Egerton G. S. , Morgan A. G.
Published: July 2010

The effect of various factors (oxygen, temperature and humidity, atmospheric contaminants and concentration of dye) on the fading of dyes is discussed. The phototropic behaviour of azo and thioindigoid dyes is described. The fading products resulting from the prolonged irradiation of dyes are discussed, as is the relation between the light‐fastness properties of a dye and its chemical constitution.
Light‐fastness Assessments—An Extension of Recipe Prediction
Authors: MOIR J.
Published: July 2010

Fabrics dyed with single dyes have been faded in daylight, the exposure being measured in langleys. The spectral reflectance data before and after exposure have been used, in the Kubelka‐Munk function, to calculate the reflectances of the unfaded and faded dyeings. The colour difference ΔE is a measure of the fade. By exposing the BSI blue wool standards alongside the dyes, the colour difference can be converted to blue‐scale assessments. The predicted assessments agree with visual assessments within one‐half a blue standard.
Photodecomposition of Aminoanthraquinone Disperse Dyes on Poly(ethylene terephthalate)
Authors: Giles C. H. , Sinclair R. S.
Published: July 2010

The rapid fading on polyester fibres of certain blue anthraquinone disperse dyes under normal conditions of exposure is due to the ease of photochemical de‐alkylation of their substituted‐amino groups. The products of the photoelimination reaction for a series of dyes have been identified, and a mechanism for the reaction is proposed. The higher photochemical stability of these dyes on cellulose acetate and nylon is perhaps due to hydrogen bonding of the alkylamino groups to the polymer. The influence of wavelength of irradiation, oxygen, moisture and the physical structure of the polymer is discussed.
The Behaviour of Disperse Dyes at High Temperatures
Authors: MCDOWELL WILLIAM
Published: July 2010

Investigations on disperse dyes in the vapour phase are described. The various methods of determining the vapour pressure of such dyes at high temperatures are compared. By means of direct spectrophotometric determination, a relation is established between the partial vapour pressure of a disperse dye over its solution in polyester, and its concentration in polyester. It is shown that the heat‐fastness properties of such dyes depend on their vapour pressures, any exceptions being due to the instability of the particular dye under the conditions of testing. Finally, the kinetics of such processes are considered and some attempt is made to analyse practical systems.
The Fading in Solution and on Nylon 6.6 of Model Disperse Dyes Based on Stilbene
Authors: BLAIR HAL S. , BOYD NEIL L.
Published: July 2010

The effect of light on a series of stilbene derivatives in solution and dyed on nylon 6.6 film is described. The initial fading reaction occurring is stereomutation of the stilbene derivative and is unaffected by the presence of oxygen or water. The rates of fading in solution and on nylon are similar, but decrease with the initial concentration of the stilbene. The results indicate that this retardation is due mainly to a filter effect rather than to aggregation alone.
The Visible Spectra of Some 1,4‐Diaminoanthraquinone Disperse Dyes in Solvents and on Polymer Substrates
Authors: Sinclair Roy S. , McAlpine Eoghan
Published: July 2010

The visible spectra of a series of 1,4‐disubstituted aminoanthraquinone dyes dissolved in different solvents and polymer substrates have been measured. The position of the absorption maximum has been correlated with a weighted mean ionization potential of the substituent groups. Solvent shifts were found to be small but the dependence on polarity and hydrogen‐bonding ability was shown to act in opposite directions.

A detailed examination of the characteristic double‐peak structure of the visible‐absorption band has shown that the splitting is due to vibrational effects. The variation in the absorbance ratio of the two peaks with substituent and solvent has been explained in terms of the relative disposition of the ground‐ and excited‐state potential‐ energy curves. The effect of concentration on the double‐peak ratio has been re‐examined and found to be negligible.
A New Practical Approach to the Dyeing of Fabrics of Polyester‐Cellulose Fibre Blends
Authors: HARRISON V. W. , NORRIS R. T. , WARD A.
Published: July 2010

Some of the difficulties faced by the dyer in selecting dyes and methods for the continuous dyeing of polyester–cellulose blends are described. A simple, versatile solution to many of these problems uses ternary‐colour mixtures of disperse and reactive dyes to complement the colours of existing vat and sulphur dyes.
The Use of Non‐aqueous Solvents in Dyeing II ‐ Solvent Clearing of Dyed Polyester Yarns
Authors: LOVE RONALD B.
Published: July 2010

Acetone rinsing in place of reduction clearing to remove loose surface dye from aqueous‐dyed polyester materials offers superior fastness, a substantial reduction in cycle times and other advantages. Pilot‐plant trials have shown that it is possible to combine rapid cycles with high‐temperature discharge, acetone rinsing and steam drying.
The Coloration of Wool with Disperse Dyes
Authors: BELL VERONICA A. , LEWIS DAVID M.
Published: July 2010

Work is described which shows that, by treating wool with certain amides, polyhydric alcohols or carboxylic acids, the affinity of the fibre for disperse dyes can be greatly enhanced. The most suitable compounds, with regard to effectiveness, price and commercial availability, are thiodiglycol and glycerol. Particular reference is made to the sublimation transfer‐printing technique; the fibre is pretreated by pad‐dry application of the compounds, and prints of excellent yield and clarity are obtained using standard disperse dye transfer papers. Yellowing and fibre damage during transfer printing are minimized by the inclusion of sulphamic acid in the pad‐liquor. Wet‐fastness properties of the prints are poor, but may be improved to a certain extent by the use of selected disperse dyes.
Orientation of Dyes in Liquid Crystalline Media
Authors: JONES F. , REEVE T. J.
Published: July 2010

These two papers form part of a research project investigating the effect of dye orientation in liquid crystalline media. The first paper describes briefly the principles underlying the development of present–day liquid crystal displays, and the second describes a method used for the quantitative investigation of the efficiency of such media in orienting dye molecules (order parameter) in relation to the chemical structure of the dye and the effects of solvent orientation and polarity on absorbance and colour. The data obtained should permit choices of dye to be made to improve visibility and contrast in current liquid crystal display systems.
Carrier Dyeing of Polyester Fibre Part II – The Influence of Carriers on the Diffusion of Disperse Dyes
Authors: ROBERTS G. A. F. , SOLANKI R. K.
Published: July 2010

The influence of carriers on the diffusion of disperse dyes in polyester fibre has been studied. The extent to which the diffusion rate of a dye is increased is independent of the chemical structure of the carrier but depends on the molar concentration of carrier in the fibre and on the chemical structure of the dye. The influence on the diffusion rate decreases with increase in temperature, and the rates of decrease increase with increase in the activation energies of diffusion of the dyes when no carrier is present.

The presence of carrier reduces the activation energies of diffusion of the dyes, the reduction being related to the decrease in the entropies of activation of diffusion brought about by the plasticizing action of the carrier. This reduction in the activation energy of diffusion leads to the existence of a temperature at which the presence of carrier would have no effect on the diffusion coefficient of the dye, and above which the presence of carrier would actually reduce the diffusion coefficient. The value of this temperature depends upon the carrier concentration in the fibre and the specific dye.
Application of Computer Control in the Batch Dyeing Industry
Authors: GRAY A.
Published: July 2010

This paper describes the application of computer control in the industry of batch dyeing, and relates facilities offered by a computer system to the requirements of the dyeing process.

The facilities described range from basic dye cycle control to the monitoring and control of chemical and material weighing. However, this is not intended to imply that all the facilities are suitable for every plant. Each facility must be evaluated in relation to the operating requirements of an individual plant, and a selection made based on return against invested capital.
Physico–chemical and Dyeing Properties of Disperse Dyes containing Phthalimide Residues
Authors: Szadowski Jerzy , Malinowski Wlodzimierz
Published: July 2010

The relationship between the constitution and the physico–chemical and dyeing properties of disperse dyes containing phthalimide residues has been studied. The influence of the –NH or –NCH3 group in the phthalimide residues on the thermal and spectral properties of dyes has been investigated. Their influence on the dyeing process and on the colour and fastness properties of dyed polyester have also been studied.
Contribution of Singlet Oxygen to the Photofading of Some Dyes
Authors: Kuramoto N. , Kitao T.
Published: July 2010

The contribution of singlet oxygen to the photofading of arylazonaphthols, indigo, quinophthalones, aminoanthra‐quinones, triphenylmethanes and stilbenes in solution is discussed, and mechanisms for their photo fading reactions are proposed.
John Dalton — The Facts Concerning His Colour Blindness
Authors: Elliott R L
Published: July 2010

John Dalton made a number of notable contributions to science, but he was also colour blind. This short paper discusses the evidence leading to the discovery of his colour blindness and describes Dalton's work on colour vision. The nomenclature of colour vision defects is briefly mentioned.
Reaction of Water–soluble Dyes with Ozone
Authors: Matsui M , Kimura T , Nambu T , Shibata K , Takase Y
Published: July 2010

Reaction of various kinds of water–soluble dyes with ozone was examined. It was found that the reaction of dyes with ozone improved their biodegradability, and the values of biochemical oxygen demand (BOD} and total organic carbon (TOC) of the ozonation products correlated with those of the theoretical TOC of the original dyes. In addition, the azo dyes had a tendency to be easily decomposed with ozone, and the decomposition of dyes was markedly accelerated when ozonation was accompanied by ultra–violet irradiation.
The Colour and Fastness of Natural Dyes of the Scottish Highlands
Authors: Grierson Su , Duff David G , Sinclair Roy S
Published: July 2010

From an extensive study of dyeings on wool using natural dye plants indigenous to the Highlands of Scotland, a selection representing some of the brighter colours obtained have been examined colorimetrically, and the fastnesses to washing and light recorded. The original colours and the colour changes during light fading have been recorded in Munsell and CIELAB (1976) colour coordinates. The fastnesses of these dyeings have been compared with the corresponding results previously reported for the more widely used natural dyes that formerly were traded internationally. The colours and colour changes are briefly discussed in terms of biosynthetic pathways, and related to the colours of yarns used in Scottish tartans of the past and present.
Estimation of Dyes in Solution by Transmission Measurements
Authors: Park James , Shore John
Published: July 2010

The estimation of dyes in solution by absorption spectrophotometry is reviewed with special emphasis on the use of such techniques by manufacturers and users to compare the strengths of commercial dyes. Although a secondary evaluation in relation to the determination of dye strength by application to a relevant substrate, this does not diminish the importance of the spectrophotometric method. The theoretical basis of measurements of absorbance or transmittance is outlined. Comments are made on recommended procedures with regard to deviations from ideal behaviour and the sources of error that may arise in practice. Specific test conditions that have been suggested for the estimation of dyes from various application classes are summarised. Techniques of extraction of dyes from textile substrates are included, because these often precede spectrophotometric measurement in quantitative analysis and the investigation of dyeing mechanisms.
Uniform Colour Space Based on the CMC(l:c) Colour‐difference Formula
Authors: Luo M R , Rigg B
Published: July 2010

The CMC(c) colour‐difference formula agrees more closely with visual assessments than does the CIE L*a*b* formula, but hitherto there has been no associated ‘uniform colour space’. A new colour space similar in form to CIE L*a*b* space has been derived in which distances agree closely with the corresponding ΔE(CMC) values. The new space was extensively tested using real and hypothetical pairs of samples. In each case the distance, in the space, between a pair of samples was compared with the ΔE(CMC) value. The disagreement rarely exceeded 20%, while discrepancies between distances in CIE L*a*b* space and those implied by the CMC formula can exceed 500%.

It is easy to construct ‘micro‐spaces’ apparently corresponding to the CMC formula which should be applicable to small regions of colour space and hence useful for applications such as colour sorting. Such micro‐spaces did not agree with the CMC formula as well as did the new space.

The new space represents a substantial improvement over CIE L*a*b* space with respect to uniformity; its form is similar to CIE L*a*b* and so is easy to use.
Kinetic aspects of dye addition in continuous integration dyeing
Authors: Cegarra J , Puente P , Valldeperas J , Pepió M
Published: July 2010

Following on from previous papers by the authors concerning the integration dyeing method, this paper studies the kinetic behaviour of the dye when integrated continuously in an isothermal solution over a period of 60 min. The dyeing systems selected were acid dyes on wool and cationic dyes on Leacril 16 fibre. Curves of the kinetics of dye absorption by the fibres were similar to those of the addition of dye to the dyebath. At low exhaustion the systems followed an Arrhenius law, contrary to the behaviour at high exhaustion where the dye absorption was almost independent from temperature. A mathematical method is described to assess the total amount of the dye to be added in relation with the desired temperature and exhaustion.
Dyehouse pollution‐engineer your way out?
Authors: Cooper Peter
Published: July 2010

Pollution control has never been as rigorous as it is today and many manufacturers claim that they are swimming as hard as they can simply to stay above water. Peter Cooper considers the threats of ‘green’ legislation facing dyers and finishers and assesses what benefits can be derived from tighter effluent consent limits.
Pollution control in the textile industry — the chemical auxiliary manufacturer's role
Authors: Norman Peter I , Seddon Roy
Published: July 2010

In the first half of a two‐part paper, the authors discuss what efforts are being made to control atmospheric and effluent pollution in the coloration industry and closely related processes such as fabric production, preparation and finishing.
Towards just‐in‐time
Authors: Hobson J
Published: July 2010

It should be evident that total quality management (TQM) is a tool that can be used in isolation, achieving results in its own right. TQM is an ideal that may never be attained, but it should be our intention to get closer and closer to the optimum. Like TQM, just‐in‐time (JIT) is also an ideal, the holy grail in this case being stockless production, but, unlike TQM, installing JIT in isolation is potentially very dangerous. The route towards JIT is therefore one that must be planned and understood if we are to avoid costly and potentially disastrous errors.
Greener mordants for natural coloration
Authors: Dalby Gill
Published: July 2010

Calls for the use of natural colorants on textiles has been just one of the consequences of increased environmental awareness. However, these demands are often misguided because, whereas the dyes themselves are harmless, the necessary fixatives can be very pollutive. Gill Dalby has focussed her attention on this problem. Here she offers some recipes for ‘cleaner’ mordants which she says also improve light and wash fastness as well.
Polaroid's waste reduction programme
Authors: McKeown Ian
Published: July 2010

Over the last few years, Polaroid has been actively trying to reduce the amount of waste produced at its sites. In this article, Ian McKeown looks at the measures taken at the UK site in Scotland to achieve this aim.
The photolytic production of chromophores and fluorescence in wool keratin
Authors: Smith Gerald J , Melhuish W Hugh
Published: July 2010

The differential reflectance and three‐dimensional fluorescence spectra of wet and dry wool following UVB irradiation at 303 nm in the presence and absence of oxygen were measured. Fluorescence originating from tryptophan residues was reduced under all irradiation conditions and a nonfluorescent chromophore with a maximum at 320 nm was produced. These findings suggest that neither singlet oxygen nor triplet states are involved in the formation of the chromophore. Following irradiation of wool at 303 nm in the absence of oxygen, fluorescence with an excitation maximum between 360 and 380 nm and an emission maximum at 440 nm appeared. Fluorescence with an excitation maximum between 410 and 420 nm and an emission maximum at 470 nm from a different species was produced by photolysis in the presence of oxygen. The presence of water accelerates the formation of the latter fluorophore and this observation suggests that singlet oxygen is not involved in its formation.
The reaction of wool keratin with tetrazonium cations
Authors: Ifrim Savel
Published: July 2010

A novel dyeing method is described in which wool can be treated with salts formed by tetrazotising benzidine, o‐dianisidine and 4,4′‐diaminostilbene. Evidence is provided that the salts react with aromatic nuclei present in certain amino acids that form part of the keratinous molecular structure of wool, to form in situ azo dyes. Details of the process and a number of potential practical advantages are discussed.
Dyeing as a new environmental challenge
Authors: Horstmann Gerhard
Published: July 2010

The impact of textiles on both the environment and the consumers' health and sense of well being is important. The public and the authorities pay increasing attention to this fact and additional regulations and new labels are developed accordingly. Gerhard Horstmann of Ciba‐Geigy, Switzerland, suggests that optimisation is no longer sufficient to meet these requirements. We need new products, new procedures and new techniques
Dyeing machine control using in‐line colour measurement Part 1: In‐line monitoring of colour in dye liquors
Authors: Gilchrist A , Nobbs J H
Published: July 2010

A novel method of dyebath analysis is described, based on an in‐line optical cell with links to a computer‐based match prediction system. A multiple path length cell has been used to allow accurate concentration determination over a wide range of dyebath concentrations, and a temperature compensation system has been devised. Problems encountered in previous attempts at carrying out such analysis, due to the large changes in the absorbance of the dyebath during the dyeing and the effect of the dyebath temperature on the measured absorbance, have thus been circumvented. A high level of accuracy has been demonstrated.
Application of a reactive cationic dye to wool
Authors: Kongliang X , Aiqin H
Published: July 2010

This is a study on the application of a new type of reactive cationic dye. Stripping agents and the influence of aftertreatment are discussed. The result shows this kind of dye is more suitable than conventional reactive dyes for wool and the urea‐surfactant method is the best stripping method.
The application of cationic fixing agents to cotton dyed with direct dyes under different pH conditions
Authors: Blackburn R S , Burkinshaw S M , Collins G W
Published: July 2010

The effect of application pH on the effectiveness of the conventional cationic fixing agents Matexil FC‐ER and Fixogene CXF in improving the wash fastness of the commercial direct dyes CI Direct Red 89, CI Direct Yellow 106 and CI Direct Blue 85 on cotton has been investigated. While the recommended neutral pH application resulted in improved fastness of the dyeings to the ISOC06/C2 wash fastness test, wash fastness was noticeably better when the fixing agents were applied under alkaline conditions.
Levetiracetam: The Preclinical Profile of a New Class of Antiepileptic Drugs?
Authors: Klitgaard Henrik
Published: July 2010

Summary:Levetiracetam is a new antiepileptic drug (AED) devoid of anticonvulsant activity in the two classic screening models for AEDs, the maximal electroshock and pentylenetetrazol seizure tests in both mice and rats. This contrasts a potent seizure suppression in genetic and kindled mice and rats and against chemoconvulsants inducing partial seizures in rats. The highly selective action in “epileptic” animals distinguishes levetiracetam from classic and other new AEDs that have nearly equipotent effects in normal and “epileptic” animals. Levetiracetam induces minor behavioral alterations in normal and in kindled mice and rats. This results in an unusually high safety margin in animal models reflecting both partial and primary generalized epilepsy. Furthermore, experiments in the kindling model suggest that levetiracetam may possess antiepileptogenic properties due to a potent ability to prevent the development of kindling in mice and rats at doses devoid of adverse effects. Electrophysiologic recordings from different experimental models suggest that levetiracetam exerts a selective action against abnormal patterns of neuronal activity, which probably explains its selective protection in epileptic animals and its unique tolerability. This effect appears to derive from one or more novel mechanisms of action that do not involve a conventional interaction with traditional drug targets implicated in the modulation of inhibitory and excitatory neurotransmission. Instead, ligand‐binding assays have disclosed a brain‐specific binding site for levetiracetam. These studies reveal a unique preclinical profile of levetiracetam, distinct from that of all known AEDs, suggesting that levetiracetam could represent the first agent in a new class of AEDs.
Pharmacokinetic Considerations in Prescribing Antiepileptic Drugs
Authors: Faught Edward
Published: July 2010

Summary: Each antiepileptic drug has a characteristic pharmacokinetic profile, and the unique properties of each must be considered when selecting the optimal agent for a particular patient. Detailed pharmacologic data are obtained during the preapproval evaluation of a drug, particularly in early phase studies in healthy volunteers. Each drug is then evaluated in the target population in later phase trials and in certain populations, such as children and individuals with various types of organ failure. Key considerations are bioavailability, protein binding, metabolism and elimination, and drug interactions. Important pharmacokinetic considerations in the selection and use of these drugs are presented in this review, with examples from currently available drugs.
Potassium Channels: How Genetic Studies of Epileptic Syndromes Open Paths to New Therapeutic Targets and Drugs
Authors: Cooper Edward C.
Published: July 2010

Summary:How can epilepsy gene hunting lead to better care for patients with epilepsy? Lessons may be learned from the progress made by identifying the mutated genes that cause Benign Familial Neonatal Convulsions (BFNC). In 1998, a decade of clinical and laboratory‐based genetics work resulted in the cloning of the KCNQ2 potassium channel gene at the BFNC locus on chromosome 20. Subsequently, computer “mining” of public DNA databases allowed the rapid identification of three more brain KCNQ genes. Mutations in each of these additional genes were implicated as causes of human hereditary diseases: epilepsy (KCNQ3), deafness (KCNQ4), and, possibily, retinal degeneration (KCNQ5). Physiologists discovered that the KCNQ genes encoded subunits of the “M‐channel,” a type of potassium channel known to control repetitive neuronal discharges. Finally, pharmacologists discovered that retigabine, a novel anticonvulsant with a broad but distinctive efficacy profile in animal studies, was a potent KCNQ channel opener. These studies suggest that KCNQ channels may be an important new class of targets for anticonvulsant therapies. The efficacy of retigabine is currently being tested in multicenter clinical trials; identification of its molecular targets will allow it to be more efficiently exploited as a “lead compound.” Cloned human KCNQ channels can now be expressed in cultured cells for “high‐throughput” screening of drug candidates. Ongoing studies of the KCNQ channels in humans and animal models will refine our understanding of how M‐channels control excitability at the cellular, network, and behavioral levels, and may reveal additional targets for therapeutic manipulation.
The Maudsley Bipolar Disorder Project
Authors: Frangou Sophia
Published: July 2010

Summary:  Purpose: The Maudsley Bipolar Disorder Project set out to investigate the cognitive and brain structural and functional characteristics of Bipolar Disorder I (BDI).

Methods: Participating patients were recruited while in remission from a secondary care setting and were matched to healthy volunteers in terms of age, gender, race, and years of education. All participants underwent extensive clinical and cognitive assessment. Brain structural and functional data also were obtained by using magnetic resonance imaging (MRI).

Results: Compared with controls, patients showed subtle widespread decrements, with executive function being more markedly impaired. Patients also showed volume decrements in the ventral prefrontal cortex (VPFC) bilaterally and the dorsal PFC (DPFC) on the left, whereas the volume of the amygdala was bilaterally enlarged. Patients showed subtle abnormalities in functional MRI in their DPFC, with marked decrements in activity in both the DPFC and VPFC in tasks that rely on the functional interaction of these brain regions.

Conclusions: Our results suggest that BDI is associated with trait deficits in executive function and in the structure and function of the PFC.
Long‐term social outcomes for children with epilepsy
Authors: Camfield Carol S. , Camfield Peter R.
Published: July 2010

Summary  Children with epilepsy often grow into adults with significant social problems including decreased employment, marriage, social relationships, and independent living arrangements. These problems are noted in population‐based longitudinal and cross‐sectional studies from many countries. Learning disorder and mental handicap are the most consistent predictors of poor social outcome. Epilepsy variables, even remission, appear to have little effect. The influence of epilepsy on social outcome is greater than found in other childhood chronic disease control groups. More attention and research is needed to correct these unfortunate outcomes.
Social stigma for adults and children with epilepsy
Authors: Jacoby Ann , Austin Joan K.
Published: July 2010

Summary  For many people with epilepsy, the continuing social reality of their condition is as a stigma. Epilepsy stigma has three different levels; internalized, interpersonal, and institutional. While there have been documented improvements in public attitudes towards epilepsy, the remnants of “old” ideas about epilepsy continue to inform popular concepts resulting in a difficult social environment for those affected. The social and quality of life problems arising from a diagnosis of epilepsy can represent greater challenges than are warranted by its clinical severity. The relationship between stigma and impaired quality of life is well documented. Tackling the problem of stigma effectively requires that all three of different levels at which it operates are systematically addressed.
Long‐term memory impairment in patients with focal epilepsy
Authors: Hoppe Christian , Elger Christian E. , Helmstaedter Christoph
Published: July 2010

Summary  In temporal lobe epilepsy, long‐term memory disturbance starts early in life mainly affecting declarative memory. Primary impairment of episodic memory often results in reduced semantic and autobiographic memory. Neuropsychological performance predicts academic achievement and everyday life functioning while subjective memory complaints are highly correlated with depression. Memory impairment is also influenced by initial brain damage, developmental retardation and dynamic factors (e.g., seizure frequency, medication). Damage of functional tissue, low mental reserve capacity, and poor seizure outcome increase the risk for postsurgical memory impairment whereas functional release due to seizure freedom counteracts negative impact. Preliminary findings indicate that postsurgical training improves memory deficits and encourage further research.
The interaction between sleep and epilepsy
Authors: Malow Beth A.
Published: July 2010

Summary  Sleep and epilepsy are interrelated. Understanding the relationship between epilepsy and sleep is important for optimizing management of the epilepsy patient in several ways. First, sleep modulates the expression of epileptic seizures and interictal epileptiform discharges. Second, epilepsy and its treatment influence sleep organization and daytime alertness, and may contribute to, or ameliorate, sleep disorders. Finally, treatment of a coexisting sleep disorder may improve seizure control, daytime alertness, and health‐related quality of life. In this article, aspects related to the interrelationship of sleep and epilepsy will be discussed and the model of how sleep can interact with a neurological disorder will be illustrated.