bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Studies in Wool Yellowing
Authors: Gruen L.C. , Inglis A.S.
Published: March 2007

Variations in the concentrations of aluminum sulfate and sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate, added with the fluorescent brightening agent to unbleached wool, can affect both the extent of bleaching and the uptake of fluorescent brightening agent. Experi ments with different fluorescent brighteners have confirmed that several of these reagents are suitable for wool fabric if the fabric is subsequently treated with thiourea-formaldehyde. Comparisons made were based primarily on changes in fluorescence and yellowness index on irradiation.

Resins may be added with the thiourea-formaldehyde treatment to increase the resistance of the fabric to shrinkage without adversely affecting the protection given against yellowing. Fabrics treated initially with hydrogen peroxide instead of chlorine showed improved shrink-resistance when followed by resin-thiourea-formaldehyde treat ment and appreciably better appearance.
Yarn Mercerization Techniques in Preparing High-Strength Wash-Wear Cottons
Authors: Murphy A.L. , Margavio M.F. , Cooper A.S. , Welch C.M.
Published: March 2007

The strength of dimethylolethyleneurea (DMEU)-treated yarns and fabrics has been studied as a function of yarn premercerization technique. Yarns, which were suitably mercerized and tensioned, possessed, after subsequent cross-linking, a strength equal to or greater than unmercerized, untreated yarn. Fabrics woven from certain of the mercerized yarns showed extraordinarily high strength retention when treated with DMEU. At a level of treatment which imparted 275-279° conditioned wrinkle recovery and a wash-wear rating of 5.0, the average percent of break and tear strength retention equalled or exceeded the same average for unmercerized, uncross-linked fabric. In one of these fabrics, the average strength retention, after cross-linking, was 96% of that prior to cross-linking. Thus, the effects of mercerization cannot be explained on the basis of a strength buildup which merely offsets subsequent losses during resin treatment. It is concluded that the strength of cotton after DMEU cotton-linking depends critically on the physicochemical state of the cotton prior to cross-linking. The results demonstrate that large strength losses are not inherent to the formation of covalent cross links in cotton cellulose and that cotton fabrics having high wash-wear performance can be produced with negligible reduction in strength properties.
Mobile Ester Cross Links for Thermal Creasing of Wrinkle-Resistant Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Rowland Stanley P. , Brannan Mary Ann F.
Published: March 2007

Ester cross linkages in cotton cellulose have been investigated for mobility (trans esterification) at elevated temperature. Cotton cellulose polycarboxylates were prepared by reaction of cotton print cloth with polycarboxylic acids having 3-6 carboxyl groups per molecule, at least two of the carboxyl groups being on adjacent carbon atoms. Durable creases were developed to various degrees when these fabrics were subjected to thermal creasing treatments subsequent to the cross-linking reaction. Thermal mobil ity of ester linkages in selected model compounds has been shown to result from participation of the unesterified carboxyl group adjacent to the ester linkage. The cyclic anhydride was detected from dissociation of model ester compounds at elevated tempera tures; similar cyclic anhydrides are the probable intermediates in transesterification of ester linkages in cotton cellulose polycarboxylates.
A Corona Discharge Method of Producing Shrink-Resistant Wool and Mohair
Authors: Thorsen W.J.
Published: March 2007

The felting shrinkage resistance imparted to wool by an air-corona field increases to a maximum near 100°C, decreases to a minimum at about 115-120°C, and then increases at higher temperatures. At 100°C and 415 Hz, the shrinkage resistance increases to a maximum at about 17.5 kV, then decreases rapidly. Ozone is believed not responsible for the shrinkage resistance because corona cells operating at about 90°C or higher generate little ozone.

Chlorine gas in the air-corona field markedly increases the rate at . which wool is made shrink-resistant. An air/chlorine volume ratio of about 14/1 gives excellent results. If either nitrogen or oxygen, instead of air, is mixed with chlorine, only about half as much shrinkage resistance is achieved. A contribution of oxides of nitrogen to shrink resistance is suggested. Treatment effectiveness of an air-chlorine corona field is increased by adding hydrated salts to the wool or by the presence of water or HCI in the gas. Under conditions which produce satisfactory shrink resistance, the air-chlorine corona treatment causes no change in dyeing rate or in the solubility in acid or base.

A continuous reactor is described which uses plane Pyrex cell electrodes. The thin webbing of fibers is transported through the cell by an endless belt. Several metals are satisfactory as belt material, but must be insulated electrically from grounded parts or high-voltage conductors so that arcing will not occur. In the presence of chlorine, the metal should be Teflon-coated.
Vinyl Cellulose Copolymers
Authors: Blouin Florine A. , Morris Nelle J. , Arthur Jett C.
Published: March 2007

Polyacrylonitrile-cotton copolymers were prepared by post-irradiation, simultaneous- irradiation, ceric ion, and ferrous ion/hydrogen peroxide-initiated graft copolymerization reactions. Molecular weights of the grafted polyacrylonitrile ranged from 33,000, when the simultaneous-irradiation method and dimethylformamide solvent were used, to 1,200,000 when the post-irradiation method and 75% aqueous zinc chloride solvent were used. The location of the grafted polyacrylonitrile ranged from principally the outer layers of the fibrous structure to uniform distribution within the structure. All of the textile properties of cotton yarns and fabrics, which had been graft-copolymerized with acrylonitrile, were apparently not wholly dependent on the molecular weight of the grafted polyacrylonitrile, the fraction of the cellulose molecules containing grafted polyacrylonitrile, or the distribution of the polymer within the fibrous structure. Of the properties evaluated, only the flat abrasion resistances of cotton fabrics, copolymerized with acrylonitrile using radiation methods and aqueous zinc chloride solvent, were significantly greater than those of copolymers prepared by other methods. The wrinkle recoveries of fabrics, containing the polyacrylonitrile which had the lowest molecular weight, were greater than those for fabrics grafted with polyacrylonitrile which had higher molecular weight. The relationships between the site on the cellulose molecule of the graft copolymerization reaction to the method of initiation and the properties of the cotton copolymers were considered.
The Influence of Natural Variations in Fiber Properties on the Bulk Compression of Wool
Authors: Chaudri M.A. , Whiteley K.J.
Published: March 2007

Extremely large variations occur in the compressional properties of wool samples. These variations are attributed to differences in the crimp structure of the fibers, crimp form and crimp frequency together accounting for 88.6% of the observed varia tions in compressional load. Alternatively, a single variable consisting of the product of crimp frequency and fiber diameter accounted for 88.7% of the variations. Other characteristics such as diameter, length, and mechanical properties of single fibers proved to be nonsignificant.
Kinetics of the Reactions of Ethyleneurea Derivatives with Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Ziifle Hilda M. , Benerito Ruth R. , Gonzales Elwood J. , Berni Ralph J.
Published: March 2007

Cotton print cloth has been treated with 0.55 M aqueous solutions of 1,3-dimethyl- 4,5-dihydroxy-2-imidazolidinone or dimethylhydroxyethyleneurea (DMeDHEU) in the presence of either ZnCl2, Zn(NO3) 2, MgCl2, or Mg(NO3)2 catalyst at 0.03 and 0.1 M concentration of metal ion. The rates of the reaction at 45, 55, and 65°C in the presence of each of the above catalysts at 0.03 M concentration of metal ion have been determined by following the changes in bound nitrogen. Changes in wet and conditioned crease recovery with reaction time were also followed. Enthalpies, entropies, and free energies of activation at 45°C have been calculated. The kinetics followed a pseudo first-order reaction with zinc salts and zero-order reaction with magnesium salts. With zinc salt catalysis, substitution of the amido hydrogens by methyl groups in DMeDHEU increased the reactivity of the ring hydroxyl groups when comparison was made with dihydroxyethyleneurea (DHEU) and dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU).
Mechanics of Form-Persuasive Garments Based on Spandex Fibers1
Authors: Ibrahim Salim M.
Published: March 2007

Form-persuasive garments are new lightweight briefs and panty girdles which use 40-140-den spandex yarns and have a level of control intermediate between stretch nylon panties and conventional high-support foundations. This work was done to provide a basic understanding of the functionality of these garments and to provide a basis for proper garment design. Consumer tests showed high interest in this concept, and a new market potential exists for form-persuasive garments to complement the high-sup port segment of the foundation market, particularly for casual wear and sportswear . and for subjects requiring relatively minor adjustments to their figures. The major functional contribution of form-persuasive garments is to provide geometric adjustments and dynamic control of the body approaching that of high-support foundations but with about 60% of the constraint. The required levels of fabric extension were specified, and expressions were derived and confirmed by actual wear tests to predict these levels. Definitions were also furnished for preferred levels of garment support to provide wearer identi6able geometric and dynamic adjustments to the body. Several new tests were developed to identify garment pressure and body responses to varying support levels. A modified fabric test was also proposed.
A Study of the Causes of Variation in the Acid Dye-Combining Capacity of Human Hair
Authors: Robbins Clarence R. , Scott George V. , Barnhurst James D.
Published: March 2007

The capacity for human hair to combine with acid dye is rapidly and precisely determined by a modification of Maclaren's method for measuring the equilibrium uptake of Orange II from formic acid solution. The uptake determined in this manner provides a reliable estimate of the number of "free" basic sites in keratin fibers, which is shown to be a good index of chemical alteration produced by current bleaching products.

A collection of hair samples with a known history of prior chemical treatment, from 30 female Caucasians, was examined by this method. Although significant differences in equilibrium dye pickup were found among 20 samples that had not been permanent-waved or bleached, the range was from only 0.67 to 0.77 mmoles/g. Permanent-waved samples were also in this range. Bleached hair, however, showed a marked reduction in Orange II pickup, the range being 0.30 to 0.63 mmoles/g. These data, together with amino acid analysis data and results from differential infrared spectroscopy, indicate that a primary reaction during the bleaching of hair with current bleach products is the conversion of cystine residues to cysteic acid residues.

Distal ends of undamaged hair (unbleached, unwaved, undyed) showed a significantly lower uptake of Orange II than proximal ends, which is presumably a result of weathering.
The Effect of Convolutions on Orientation Measurements in Cotton Fibers
Authors: Hebert J.J. , Giardina R. , Mitcham D. , Rollins M.L.
Published: March 2007

Ten genetic varieties of cotton were examined by x-ray orientation and birefringence techniques. The relationship of an optically measured convolution angle to x-ray and birefringence orientation parameters is illustrated. It is believed that the data presented confirm the previous prediction that the spiral angle in an unconvoluted cotton fiber is a constant independent of genetic variety.
Phosphonate Finishes for Fire-Retardant, Durable-Press Cotton
Authors: Sanderson W.A. , Mueller W.A. , Swidler R.
Published: March 2007

Continuing efforts to develop an economical flame-retardant, durable-press finish for 100% cotton fabric are described. A system based on the reaction product of guanidines, dimethyl phosphite, and formaldehyde (GDMPF), applied by a conventional pad-dry-curve process, gives fabrics with excellent flame retardance durable for over 50 home launderings. Dry crease recovery is in the range 220°-270°, depending on fabric construction and weight. A second system based on the in situ reaction of methyl phosphonic acid (MPA) and cyanamide, applied by a pad-dry-cure process at low pH, gives flame retardance durable for over 50 home launderings at add-ons of less than 10%. Fabrics have moderate crease recovery with excellent hand and strength retention. Phosphorus-nitrogen synergism and the role played by calcium in the deactivation of phosphonate finishes are also discussed.
Some Chemical and Physical Factors Influencing Flame Retardancy
Authors: Reeves Wilson A. , Perkins Rita M. , Piccolo Biagio , Drake George L.
Published: March 2007

Information is given to explain why or how bromine or nitrogen contributes to phosphorus-containing flame retardants. Amide and amine nitrogen generally increase flame resitance, whereas, nitrile nitrogen can detract. Essentially, all of the phosphorus in a flame retardant is accounted for in the char or solid phase and this is also true when amide or amine nitrogen is present. Nitrile nitrogen can cause a significant reduction in percent phosphorus accounted for in the char. The amount of nitrogen accounted for in the char is dependent upon the type of nitrogen and the atomic ratio of N to P in the flame retardant. When large proportions of amide or amine nitrogen are present they also contribute to flame resistance in the gas or vapor phase. Bromine makes its contribution to flame retardants by acting mainly in the vapor phase, and its action appears independent of phosphorus.
A Scanning Electron-Microscope Study of Starches
Authors: Hall David M. , Sayre Joseph G.
Published: March 2007

A scanning electron microscope was used to study the shape and surface details of six cereal starches—five corn varieties, oat, barley, rice, sorghum varieties, and wheat. Considerable information concerning the internal and surface detail seen in the ordinary light microscope can be obtained from comparisons. The extent of surface damage, starch shapes, and some information concerning the internal structure of some of the starches is shown directly with the scanning electron microscope. From such a study, some speculation concerning the internal architecture and development of granules is made.
Evidence Regarding Relative Activations and Accessibilities of Cellulosic Hydroxyl Groups
Authors: Bullock Austin L. , Rowland Stanley P. , Cirino Vidabelle O.
Published: March 2007

The courses of the reversible reactions of methyl vinyl sulfone with hydroxyl groups at C-2, C-3, and C-6 of the D-glu copyranosyl units of a decrystallized cotton cellulose and a fibrous crystalline cotton cellulose have been investigated. Rate constants for reactions at the three types of hydroxyl groups of decrystallized cellulose have been estimated. The ratios of k2:k3:k6 at 18° and 70°C, respectively, were found to be 0.50:0.18:1.00 and 0.28:0.11:1.00. The relative thermal activations of hydroxyl groups at C-2, C-3, and C-6 in these reactions appear to be 0.58:0.65:1.00. From data on the relative reactions in the fibrous cotton cellulose and in the decrystallized cotton cellulose, we obtained an Indica tion and an estimation of the relative accessibilities of the individual types of hydroxyl groups in the fibrous cellulose. As a result of short reaction periods (30 min), the relative accessibilities of the hydroxyl groups at C-2, C-3, and C-6 in fibrous cellulose are about 1.5:1.5:1.0 in dimethyl sulfoxide and about 1.1:0.6: 1.0 in water.
Bilateral Structure of Cotton Fibers as Revealed by Enzymatic Degradation
Authors: Kassenbeck P.
Published: March 2007

The morphological appearance of cotton fibers scoured at 100 and 140°C then subjected to a treatment with cellulase, has been examined as a function of the enzymatic action time.

The rate of enzymatic digestion varies according to the region of the secondary wall under consideration, and examina tion of the degraded fibers by optical and scanning electron microscopy clearly shows the bilateral structure of cotton. Four zones can be distinguished in the secondary wall, which differ in their accessibility to reagents. These differences can be attributed to local variations in the packing density of the fibrillar structure, caused by the mechanical forces which appear in the fibers during their drying.

The effect of scouring at a higher temperature is to increase the rate of enzymatic degradation without affecting the relative and important differences in the resistance to biodegradation of the different regions of the secondary wall.
Recent Developments in the Chemistry of Cross-Linking Agents
Authors: Petersen Harro
Published: March 2007

Kinetic and thermodynamic studies of the reaction of urea with formaldehyde have led to a technically feasible synthesis of hitherto unknown trialkoxymethyl ureas, particularly trimethoxymethyl urea. Fabrics cured with trimethoxymethyl urea exhibit better resistance to acid hydrolysis than those finished with dimethylol urea. Reactivities, hydrolysis stabilities and other applied properties are described in relation to various reaction parameters.

Investigations of the equilibrium states and formation and dissociation constants led to the discovery that, when a monocarboxylic acid amide is reacted with at least two molecules of formaldehyde in highly concentrated solutions, dime thylol compounds can be converted in high yields, by acetalation with alcohols, to the stable N, N-dialkoxymethyl mono carboxylic acid amides. Chlorine-and hydrolysis-resistant, nonwrinkling finishes can be obtained with the N,N-dimethoxy methyl monocarboxylic acid amides just like the dimethylol carbamates.

Methylol compounds of 4,5-dihydroxyethylene ureas and of 4-hydroxy (alkoxy)-5, 5-dialkylpropylene ureas occupy a special position, since not only the methylol groups, but also the ring hydroxy or alkoxy groups can be substituted by O- cellulose residues under certain reaction conditions.

4,5-Dihydroxy (alkoxy)-ethylene ureas undergo conversion reactions in acid media, particularly at elevated tempera tures, and hydantoin derivatives and strongly colored intermediate products are formed after passing through the 4-hy droxy (alkoxy)-imidazolone stage.

While the 4,5-dihydroxy (alkoxy)-ethylene ureas are practically useless for a wrinkle-free finish, and their monomethylol compounds are only conditionally suitable, finishes with good characteristics can be achieved with the monomethylol compounds of 4-hydroxy (alkoxy)-5.5-dialkylpropylene ureas. The kinetics and reaction mechanisms of curing with 4, 5- dihydroxy (alkoxy)-ethylene ureas and with 4-hydroxy (alkoxy)-5,5-dialkylpropylene ureas in relation to various reaction parameters are discussed in detail.

Finally, the kinetics and mechanisms of crosslinking with N-methylol compounds are briefly considered.
Structure of Reagent Residues in Cotton Cellulose Modified with Tris(1-aziridinyl)phosphine Oxide
Authors: Roberts E.J. , Wade C.P. , Rowland S.P.
Published: March 2007

Several samples of tris(1-aziridinyl)phosphine oxide (APO)-modified cotton were prepared with 5.8-14.6% APO in corporation. The samples were degraded by acid hydrolysis and attempts were made to isolate the expected 0-(2-amino ethyl)-D-glucopyranoses and 0-[N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl]-D-glucopyranoses by a variety of techniques. Neither of these glucose derivatives could be detected in the hydrolyzates; however, the hydrolyzates were found to contain a considerable quantity of ethanolamine along with N-(2-aminoethyl)ethanolamine and complex products resulting from reaction of the functional group at C-1 of glucose and the amino compounds derived from the APO during acid hydrolysis. The ethanolamine in the hydrolyzates of two samples of APO-modified cotton was estimated to account for about 85% of the total nitrogen in the samples. The N-(2-aminoethyl)ethanolamine was estimated to account for about 5% of the original nitrogen. The remaining 10% was in the form of polyethylenimines, N-glucosylamine complexes, and glucose substituents.
The Interaction of Wool with Cold Urea Solutions
Authors: Asquith R.S. , Booth A.K.
Published: March 2007

A more reproducible method for determining the swelling of wool fibers is suggested. It has been shown that high concentrations of urea do not increase the swelling of wool in cold aqueous solution. The influence of the addition of small amounts of sodium metabisulfite and wetting agents on the swelling of wool in urea solutions is discussed. It has been shown that small amounts of surface protein material are removed from the wool by concentrated urea solutions. The reported presence of a amino adipic acid in the surface material has been confirmed and over-all analysis of the urea-soluble material indicates its similarity with a previously isolated cuticular sheath fraction. The implications of these findings in relation to wool processing are discussed.
Dyeing of Resin-Treated Wool
Authors: Temin Samuel C. , Park Chunghi H.
Published: March 2007

The dyeing of wool, both with respect to rate of coloration and depth of penetration of fibers, has in the past been used as a tool to detect the locus of resin deposition. It has now been demonstrated that the results obtained from dyeing experiments are highly dependent upon the choice of dye. Whereas one dye may color more slowly and not penetrate resin-treated fibers, another may show increased rate and better penetration with treated wool fibers than with untreated. Thus, the conclusions based on observations made with one particular dye may be opposite to those from use,of another dye.
Intermediate Oxidation Products of Cystine in Oxidized Hair
Authors: Nachtigal Julius , Robbins Clarence
Published: March 2007

The disulfide-plus-thiol content and the "apparent thiol" content of altered and unaltered human hair have been determined by using both hydrolytic (colorimetric)a nd nonhydrolytic (polarographic) methods of analysis. Hair bleached with commercial cosmetic preparations, alkaline peroxide, and alkaline peracetate showed only small differences between the results obtained for the disulfide-plus-thiol contents obtained by the two analytical procedures. Furthermore, neither of these three bleaching systems yielded higher "apparent thiol" levels in bleached hair than in unbleached hair. These results suggest negligible quantities of cystine oxide residues as end products of these alkaline oxidations. In contrast, relatively large differences between hydrolytic and nonhydrolytic determinations of disulfide-plus-thiol contents and relatively large amounts of "apparent thiol" have been found in hair treated with aqueous solutions of acidic hydrogen peroxide or acidic peracetic acid. These results suggest cystine oxide residues as end products of these reactions, which implies oxidation of cystine by the —S—S— fission route rather than C—S fission.
Studies of Nonwovens
Authors: Winchester S.C. , Whitwell J.C.
Published: March 2007

The performance characteristics of nonwoven fabrics have been studied as a function of fiber properties, binder properties, and web construction. The particular type of nonwoven selected for study was a web of random-laid base fibers in which randomly placed thermoplastic fibers provide the bonds. The responses studied were those related to rupture, elastic, and handle (aesthetic) properties. Fourteen variables were investigated: Base fiber linear density, base fiber staple length, amount of crimp in base fiber, post-yield extension of base fiber, type of binder, linear density of binder, staple length of binder, binder concentration, mass per unit area of nonwoven, amount of needle looming, number of laminations per web weight, pressure of bonding, temperature of bonding, and time of bonding. The performance characteristics measured as a function of these variables were maximum tenacity at dry and wet conditions, elongation at dry and wet conditions, tear strength, abrasion resistance, elastic modulus at dry and wet conditions, proportional limit at dry and wet conditions, crease recovery, bending length, flexural rigidity, bending modulus, bulk density, and air permeability. Crimp, linear density, and staple length of the base fiber influence rupture, elastic, and handle prop erties, as expected. Binderproperties, other than type, have no effect due to the destruction of the fiber in the bonding process. Bonding conditions, particularly pressure and temperature, are extremely influential in all types of properties. These variables govern the effectiveness of the bonds. Concentration of binder is extremely important to all types of responses since it governs the number and distribution of bonds. Needle looming affects only rupture properties.
Graft Polymerization of Vinyl and Acrylic Monomers in Phosphorylated Cotton Fabric
Authors: Gallagher Dudley M.
Published: March 2007

The ion-binding capacity of cotton was readily increased by heating fabric with alkali phosphates to effect phosphoryla tion. Subsequent contact with solutions of redox polymerization initiators then bound the cationic component of the ini tiator to the cellulose. Graft polymerization of olefinic monomers in this phosphorylated, ion-exchanged fabric occurred with high speed and efficiency.

The polymers formed were for the most part durable to solvents, acid, and alkali. At high weight gains, increased flex- abrasion resistance was imparted by polymerization of methyl acrylate in phosphorylated cotton.

Polymerization of bifunctional monomers such as glycidyl acrylate or N-methylolacrylamide within the fibers was similarly accomplished. Delayed curing with acid catalysts then produced cross links between polymer and cellulose. Wrinkle recovery angles of 265°-285° (W+F) were observed at weight gains of 4-11%. Mixtures of monofunctional and

bifunctional monomers could be used in varying ratios, permitting the proportion of cellulose-reactive groups in the resulting graft copolymer to be varied.
Temperature and Moisture Regain Changes of Textiles During Vacuum-Steaming
Authors: Fell K.T. , Postle R.
Published: March 2007

A report is given of temperature and regain changes which occur during steaming of a mass of hygroscopic textile fibers held in an initially evacuated chamber. The experimental measurements for wool are compared with values of temperature and regain calculated by Nordon and Haly. Similar calculations are carried out for cotton and are compared with experimental measurements. When the initial regain of the textile is low, the temperature of the mass of fibers during steaming rose to a value considerably in excess of the steam temperature (because of the effect of heat of sorption). At higher initial regains, the fiber temperature during steaming was equal to the steam temperature. The accuracy of the theoretical calculations is discussed in terms of the accuracy of the data used, viz, sorption isotherms for wool and cotton at elevated temperatures, specific heats, and differential heats of sorption for these fibers.
Reaction of Cellulosic Fabrics to Air Contaminated with Sulfur Dioxide
Authors: Zeronian S.H.
Published: March 2007

Fabrics made from cotton, viscose rayon, or high-wet-modulus rayon were exposed to air or to air containing 0.1 ppm sulfur dioxide and simultaneously to light from a xenon arc lamp. The presence of sulfur dioxide caused an additional loss in the breaking strength of yarn taken from the cotton and regenerated cellulose fabrics, compared to the loss in light and air alone. The chemical modifications that occurred in the fabrics were followed by measuring copper numbers, carboxyl contents, and fluidities. The changes that were observed were compared to similar samples degraded by hy drolysis in dilute sulfuric acid.

In a set of preliminary experiments, fabric made from cotton containing a durable-press finish was also exposed to the same conditions as the cotton and regenerated cellulose materials. There was no loss in strength of yarn from the resin- treated fabric, when exposed to light plus air or to light plus air containing sulfur dioxide. In fact, exposure to light and air caused a significant increase in breaking load.
Moisture Characteristics of Some Knit Fabrics Made From Blend Yarns 1
Authors: Knight B.A. , Hersh S.P. , Brown P.
Published: March 2007

The moisture responses of plain jersey and 1 X 1 rib fabrics constructed from synthetic fiber-cotton blend yarns have been studied. The fabric responses include water vapor transmission, moisture imbibition, moisture regain, and air permeability. Measurements of the fabric strength and shrinkage are also reported.

The fabrics were constructed from 24/1 yarn of cotton-nylon, cotton-polyester, and cotton-acrylic blends in 100/0, 80/20, 60/40, 50/50, 40/60, 20/80, and 0/100 percent.

A simplified technique for measuring water vapor transmission through fabric was used to provide a means for com paring the blends. It was found that water vapor is transmitted through single thicknesses of plain jersey fabric faster than through equivalent rib fabrics, and significant increases in water vapor transmission occur as the synthetic com ponent of the cotton-synthetic blend is increased. Even greater relative increases in air permeability were observed with increasing synthetic-fiber content. It was, therefore, concluded that moisture vapor flow through knit fabric occurs almost entirely through the fabric interstices, and the hygroscopic nature of the fibers in the blend plays a minor roll in the moisture vapor transfer through fabric. Thus, it can be expected that garment comfort, at least as correlated with water and air permeability, should not be adversely affected by the addition of synthetic fibers to the blend. Moisture regain, moisture imbibition, and shrinkage decreased as the synthetic fiber content of the fabrics increased.
Dynamic Measurements of the Wetting of Single Filaments
Authors: Dyba Raymond V. , Miller Bernard
Published: March 2007

A means for a fairly rapid determination of a velocity that is characteristic of the dynamic wetting behavior during the vertical entrance of a filament into a liquid bath is described. The velocity chosen is that at which the dynamic contact angle is increased to 90° and has been named "rise-cancelling velocity." Sensitivity of this velocity to the composition of the filament and liquid, and to temperature is generally consistent with equilibrium wettability and with the viscosity of the liquid, although an adequate physical model has not as yet been developed.
Adhesion and Autohesion in the System Clay-Cellulose
Authors: Schott Hans
Published: March 2007

Adhesion between sodium montmorillonite and cellulose was investigated by three techniques. (1) Beaten cellulose pulp was treated with aqueous clay suspensions to cover the fibers completely with a thin clay film. The adhesion was estimated by measuring the mechanical properties of handsheets made from this pulp. (2) Finely dispersed cellulose was added to montmorillonite suspensions in amounts up to 77 volume %. The mixed suspensions were cast into thin layers and dried to films. The clay-cellulose adhesion was estimated from the mechanical properties of these mixed films. (3) Cellophane strips were embedded in clay matrices, while other cellophane strips were bonded together. The stresses required to detach cellophane strips from the clay and the stresses required to rupture bonds between pairs of cellophane strips are measurements of the adhesion between clay and cellulose and of the autohesion of cellulose, respectively, and permit a direct comparison of the two,

Results obtained with the first two methods indicate that the cellulose-clay adhesion is at least as great as the autohesion of cellulose. According to the third method, it is greater.
Comparison of Methods for Estimating Fiber Fineness
Authors: Hourihan Mary E. , Terrill Clair E. , Wilson Ruel L.
Published: March 2007

The Micronaire and Port-Ar airflow instruments are in use in this country for the determination of the average fiber diameter of wool fibers. The results from these instruments were compared with those from three laboratories which had determined the average fiber diameter on 90 wool top samples by the microprojection method. Results from the analysis of variance indicate that either instrument can be used equally well for determination of mean wool-fiber diameter.
Contact Angles from Capillary Rise Between Filaments in a V-Configuration
Authors: Princen H.M.
Published: March 2007

The capillary rise of liquids between two fibers in a V-configuration can be calculated on the basis of an existing theory for two parallel fibers. Experimental results previously obtained by Miller et al. are in fair agreement with the theory, considering the uncertainty in some of the experimental parameters. Several improvements in the technique are suggested. The theory for fibers in a V-configuration is subject to the same limitations as that for parallel fibers, i.e., reliable results can be expected only when the capillary rise is large compared to the radius of the fibers.
Cystine Content of Wool
Authors: Friedman Mendel , Noma Amy T.
Published: March 2007

Disulfide bonds in wool were reduced with tri-n-butylphosphine in 50% n-propanol at pH 7.6. Native and generated sulfhydryl groups were then alkylated in the same medium with 2-vinylpyridine. Cystine and the original of cysteine residues were thus changed quantitatively to residues of S-β-(2-pyridylethyl)-L-cysteine (2-PEC). Occurrence of this new amino acid in hydrolyzates of the modified wool was confirmed by independent synthesis. 2-PEC is stable to acid hydrolysis and is eluted from the basic physiological column of an amino acid analyzer as a discrete peak before arginine. Quantitative modification of sulfhydryl groups in reduced keratins to 2-PEC permits quantitative determination of cysteine or of cystine via cysteine by two independent techniques-ion-exchange chromatography and ultraviolet spectroscopy. The new procedure is suitable for routine analyses.
Microscopical Studies of Cottons Reacted in Vapor Phase
Authors: Cannizzaro Anna M. , Goynes Wilton R. , Rollins Mary L. , Keating Esmond J.
Published: March 2007

Morphological effects of the modification of cotton by vapor-phase treatments were studied by light and electron microscopy. Observations were made of etherified, grafted, and cross-linked cottons.

The uniformity of reaction was followed by swelling whole fibers in cupriethylenediamine hydroxide (Cuene) solution and observing the swelling and dissolution along the length of the fiber. In addition, ultrathin sections were prepared and dissolution characteristics of the sections, after immersion in Cuene, were observed with the electron microscope. Observations of cotton cross-linked with methanol hemiformal in the presence of SO2, in an open constant-volume reactor, gave indications that little reaction had occurred; reacted areas observed were at the periphery of the fiber. Samples of cotton cross-linked with vapors of paraformaldehyde, with formic acid as catalyst, appeared to be cross-linked throughout the fine structure of the fiber; when HCl or SO2 was used as the catalyst in this reaction, peripheral crosslinking was observed. When fabrics were treated for long periods of time with formalin in the presence of SO2, the reaction seemed to penetrate the entire structure of the fiber; after short periods of treatment it was peripheral. Large amounts of HCl with formalin resulted in some limited cross-linking of the fiber. When cotton was treated in a closed, constant-pressure reactor with formalin in the presence of SO2, the cellulose was reacted throughout the fiber.

Observations of a series of cottons impregnated with 2-hydroxyethyl carbamate exposed to butanol hemiformal vapor indicated that the degree of penetration of the cross-linking agent was dependent upon the length of time the samples were exposed to the cross-linking agent in the vapor phase. Examination of sections from cotton grafted with acrylic acid revealed that the material remaining after solution in Cuene was not fibrillar, but rather one of spongy character. Hydroxyethylation made the fiber sensitive to a dimethylolethylene urea (DMEU) cross-linking treatment.
Effects of Shrinkproofing and Other Chemical Treatments on the Epicuticle of Wool
Authors: Leeder J.D. , Bradbury J.H.
Published: March 2007

Treatment of wool with degradative shrinkproofing reagents or extraction with ethanol or formic acid does not prevent the occurrence of the Allworden reaction. Thus, the epicuticle is not disrupted by these treatments (as has been often stated) and this agrees well with its known chemical inertness.

Treatment with anhydrous potassium t-hutoxide produces shrink-resistance and harsh handle but no appreciable loss of weight, change in mechanical properties, modification of the Allwörden reaction, or modification of the surface, as shown by scanning electron microscopy. We believe this to be the first documented example of a shrink-resist treatment which is due solely to modification of the surface of the epicuticle.
Sewing Needle Temperature
Authors: Howard G. Michael , Sheehan J.J. , Mack E.R. , Virgilio D.R.
Published: March 2007

A study has been made of the effect of various needle characteristics on the needle temperature during high-speed sewing without thread. The needle temperatures were determined by means of infrared flux measurements. A very fast indium antimonide detector coupled with a closed-circuit television recording system and the individual determination of needle emissivities overcame almost all the dit1iculties previously associated with this methcxl. Despite the accuracy of the measuring system, there was a fair amount of variation among the needles of a particular group. An average tem perature difference hetween groups of less than 30°F is probably not significant. Xeedle surface finish was found to be the most significant needle variable. Kooltorr R or dark matte surface finishes ran at much lower temperatures than any other finishes, while sewing heavy cotton-duck fabric at 4200 stitches per minute. Nickel, plain steel, and chrome gave increas ing temperatures in that order. There is a moderate, but not completely consistent, effect of higher needle temperatures with increasing diameter. Point type and most other physical variations had very little effect. The range of maximum temperatures for standard 88X 1 size 16 needles was from 640°F for the Kooltorr® to over 800°F for the chrome and nickel finishes.
Advances in the Chemistry of N-Containing Cross-Linking Agents
Authors: Petersen Harro
Published: March 2007

A survey has been made of newly discovered relationships between chemical constitution and properties of well-known and new cross-linking agents for cellulosic fibers. Kinetic investigations into the cross-linking and hydrolysis of N- methylol and N-alkoxymethyl compounds have led to the discovery that the cleavage of the C-O- and the N-C- bonds is not subject to a specific, but to a general, acid catalysis; the mechanisms of these reactions are explained Apart from some special cases, the rate of cross-linking is defined by a linear relationship between the logarithms of the catalyst constant k cat and the p KA values of the acids used. The BrØnsted law of catalysis is valid for cross-linking. The rate constants of cross-linking are dependent on both the groups linked via oxygen as well as those linked via nitrogen. The rate constants of cross-linking are generally greater than those of cleavage of the N—C-bonds. Depending on the chemical constitution of the cross-linking agents, ditfierences in the rate constants of up to several powers of 10 were found for the reactivities. The condensations of X -methylol compounds with alcohols, as well as the hydrolysis of the N-alkoxymethyl compounds, are subject to states of equilibrium that are governed by temperature, molar ratio, concentration, solvent, and particularly by the chemical constitution of the cross-linking agents and the alcohol.
The Role of Fiber Cohesion in DP Treatments of Cotton
Authors: Weigmann H.-D. , Scott M.G.
Published: March 2007

Cotton twill fabrics were subjected to conventional pad-dry-cure DP treatments with Permafresh 183 and the "im proved" wet-fixation treatment. The mechanical properties of the treated fabrics, warp yarns, and single fibers were determined, and the results for the two treatments were compared. It appears that, with the exception of the wrinkle recovery angle, the wet-fixation treatments resulted in properties equivalent to those obtained with conventional treat ments with much lower add-ons. This leads to the hypothesis that changes in fiber-fiber interactions are responsible for the improved performance of the samples that had received the wet-fixation treatments. A method was developed that permits the determination of fiber cohesive interactions. Relationships between such interactions, and surface modifica tions, as revealed by scanning electron microscopy, and wrinkle recovery angle were established. While the conventional pad-dry-cure DP treatment resulted in low cohesive interactions, which were independent of the level of resin add-on, the wet-fixation treatment caused substantial deposition of resinous material on the fiber surfaces, resulting in higher cohesive interactions and higher wrinkle recovery angles.
Bicomponent Composites
Authors: Blais P. , Carlsson D.J. , Suprunchuk T. , Wiles D.M.
Published: March 2007

Corona treatment of various substrates in nitrogen was found to markedly improve the adhesion between the substrate and polymeric coatings which were subsequently applied by in situ polymerization of the appropriate monomers. Sub strates included films, fibers, and fabrics of polymers such as polypropylene, polyethylene, polyelhylene terephthalate, polytetrafluoroethylene, and Saran. Condensation polymers employed as coatings included polyamides, polyesters, poly- sulfonamides, and poiyureas. Other polymer coatings were also applied by anionic and cationic polymerization. Com posites prepared after corona treatment of the substrate were shown to have superior interfacial adhesion and abrasion and solvent resistance, compared with composites which had been prepared without corona treatment. Electron micro copy was used to demonstiate the difference between differently treated samples of films and fabrics. The good interfacial adhesion exhibited by coatings on corona-treated films, even after extensive elongation of the composites, indicated the possibility of preparing bicomponent fibers from coated substrates which fibrillate on drawing.
On the Problem of Large-Deflection Analysis of Space Fibers
Authors: Massoud M.F.
Published: March 2007

A general theory is presented to analyze the geometric free configuration of statically loaded space fiber. The external loads acting along the center line of the fiber are both distributed and concentrated forces and moments. The generaliza tion is confined largely to the formulation of the problem, with the assumption that the fiber is inextensible and plane cross sections remain plane and perpendicular to the center line after deformation. The dependent variables in the governing equations are the components of the linear displacement vector u and the angle of twist ψ of the fiber cross section. The relation between the linear displacement vector u and the angular displacement vector ϕ of the fiber cross section is also presented. A closed solution of the governing equations, in most cases, is difficult to obtain. An analog-computer block diagram is proposed to simulate the equations.
Effect of Cooling of Peripheral Parts of the Body on General Thermal Comfort
Authors: Vokac Z. , Køpke V. , Keül P.
Published: March 2007

The Scandinavian cross-country ski dress covers only about two thirds of the body surface area (trunk, arms and thighs). The peripheral area (head, hands, legs, and feet) is covered by garments which are not an integral part of the dress. Selective cooling of the peripheral area in six subjects in a climatic chamber showed that a general feeling of being cold was achieved by lowering the skin temperature in the peripheral area. The same general thermal sensation was also arrived at by keeping the peripheral area warm and cooling the central skin area. 'I'he general thermal sensation was related to the average weighed skin temperature, irrespective of the location of the cold and warm surface areas. In the evaluation of thermal comfort of any clothing system, attention should be paid to the insulation of the parts of the body which are not covered by the garments under investigation.
Reaction of Aryl Isocyanates with Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Mack Charles H. , Hobart Stanley R.
Published: March 2007

The thermal dissociations of cellulose N-(2-, 3-, and 4-pyridyl)-carbamates to their respective isocyanates and cellulose were investigated using dynamic and isothermal thermogravimetric analyses. With the aid of a digital computer, kinetic parameters were determined for the dissociation reactions measured by both techniques. First-order kinetics were ob served in every case. Activation energies ranged from 28 to 45 kcal/mole. Entropy of activation values were positive for the 4-isomer and negative for the 2- and 3-isomers. The intermediate postulated for the more thermally labile 4-isomer results from intermolecular catalysis, while those for the 2- and 3-isomers resulted from intramolecular catalvsis.
Fibrous Structure and Properties of Cotton-Poly(Butyl Methacrylate) Copolymers Prepared by Post-Irradiation Initiated Reactions
Authors: Harris James A. , Carra Jarrell H. , Degruy Ines V. , Arthur Jett C.
Published: March 2007

Graft copolymerization reactions of butyl methacrylate from aqueous methanol solutions with radiation-activated cotton cellulose fibers and fabrics were investigated. The effects of the initial concentration of long-lived free radicals (formed on the cellulose molecule at different radiation dosages) on the rate and extent of copolymerization of butyl methacrylate, with radiation-activated cellulose, and on the distribution of poly(butyl methacrylate) in the fibrous structure were determined. Copolymerization with cotton, containing the lowest initial concentration of free radicals of about one free radical per five to six cellulose molecules, gave a fibrous cotton copolymer which tended to have a layered structure. As the initial concentration of free radicals in cotton was increased, a fibrous copolymer with a higher degree of compactness of structure was obtained. The textile properties of fabric copolymers, which were crosslinked with dimeth yloldihydroxyethyteneurea, were determined.