bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
The Structure and Properties of Arnel 60—A New Cellulose Triacetate Staple Fiber1
Authors: Sprague B. Sheldon
Published: March 2008

A new cellulose triacetate staple fiber, Arnel 60, is undergoing development. This fiber has tensile strength in excess of 2 g./den. and elongation of about 25% which imparts higher strength to spun yarns and permits the spinning and use of much finer counts, since fiber deniers as low as 1.5 can be utilized. The wet and hot wet mechanical properties of Arnel 60 are also improved over Arnel staple, suggesting improved wash ability and ease-of-care performance. The improvement in mechanical properties is ascribed to increased orientation and a narrower molecular tautness distribution. Un like Arnel, the fiber has a rough textured surface which provides a natural semidull luster and gives, in conjunction with natural crimp, sufficient cohesiveness for fiber processing. Arnel 60 is similar to Arnel in heat settability, ironing and glazing per formance, dimensional stability, dyeing behavior, and dyefastness.
The Efficiency of Multiple Spindle Automatic Winding Machines with Constant Patrolling and Servicing Times
Authors: Howie A.J. , Brunnaschweiler D.
Published: March 2008

A general solution for the efficiency of a single winding spindle is given, where the patrolling time of the automatic knotting unit may be less than the unwinding time of the supply bobbin. Constant supply bobbin unwinding times and random yarn breaks are assumed in obtaining the solution, which is modified to allow for "doffing" and servicing times.

The case where different winding spindles are allocated to supply bobbins having different unwinding times is considered, and the patrolling time giving the maximum combined spindle efficiency is determined by means of a simple arithmetic technique.
Cotton Fiber Maturity and Fineness: Both Predicted Separately, Accurately, and Rapidly
Authors: Chapman Walter E.
Published: March 2008

Both Causticaire fineness and Causticaire maturity of cotton fibers can be predicted separately, yet simultaneously, accurately, and rapidly. Only Micronaire readings, a conversion table, and the varietal identity are necessary for accurate predictions.
The Effect of Blending Cottons of Dissimilar Fiber Properties upon Spinning Performance and Yarn Quality
Authors: Waters William T. , Phillips Joe
Published: March 2008

The blending of cottons with dissimilar fiber properties has been investigated to determine its effect upon processing performance, spinning performance and yarn quality in medium and fine count yarns. In these trials, the effect of grade and cavitomic damage (SM and LM, Sp.), fiber fineness (3.4 and 5.5 Micronaire reading), staple length (1/8 in. and 1 1/16 in.) and fiber strength (70,000 lb./in. 2 and 95,000 lb./in.2) was evaluated. Cotton bales differing appreciably in the property being investigated but having other pertinent properties similar were used. For each trial, the 100% components of the property being investigated and three blends of these cottons were run. The effects of varying percentages of the different cotton fiber properties upon spinning performance and yarn quality are shown.
The Molecular Structure and Mechanical Properties of Polyethylene Terephthalate Fibers
Authors: Ward I.M.
Published: March 2008

In this paper, the application of several techniques of molecular structure deter mination to polyethylene terephthalate (henceforth abbreviated to PET) polymer and fibers will be described. These investigations have been directed partly towards obtain ing an understanding of the dynamic mechanical properties of PET and related polymers and partly to the characterization of PET fibers with respect to crystallinity and orientation.

In considering the dynamic mechanical properties of PET and their relationship to the molecular structure two main points have been investigated: first whether the dynamic mechanical transitions can be related to specific motions of the molecular chains and second whether the influence of crystallinity and orientation can be simply understood.

2 Use of a company and/or product named by the De partment does not imply approval or recommendation of the product to the exclusion of others which may also be suitable.
The Use of Coreactant Curing Agents with a Diepoxide to Impart Wrinkle Resistance to Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Kullman Russell M. H. , Moore Harry B. , Reid J. David
Published: March 2008

Wrinkle resistance can be imparted to cotton fabrics with a diepoxide when certain coreactant curing agents are used. Such materials coreact to become a part of the finished product and introduce linkages and chemical groups which differ from those obtained when a true catalyst is used. Several coreactants including, for example. phthalic anhydride, citric acid, 1-aminoethyl-2-methyl-imidazoline, triethanolamine, and potassium thiocyanate, were used with 1,3-diglycidylglycerol as the diepoxide. In some cases mere deposition seemed to occur while in other cases cross-linkage was accom plished. Some indications of the types of reaction were obtained from infrared data and from the responses of the treated fabrics to various classes of dyes. In some cases coreaction between the diepoxide and the curing agent appeared to take place at rela tively low temperatures, producing improved wrinkle resistance. Phthalic anhydride was used to investigate this aspect in more detail.

For comparison with the coreactant materials, several acid salts were used as catalysts, and the results are reported. Among the more suitable acid catalysts are magnesium perchlorate, aluminum sulfate, and zinc fluoborate.

The inorganic acid catalysts produced fabrics with excellent durability and wrinkle resistance. Tearing strength losses, however, were greater with epoxide-treated cotton than those observed, at equivalent crease recovery angle, when a typical methylolamide finishing agent with catalyst was used. The durability to alkaline solutions of some of the epoxide finishes applied with coreactant curing agents was not as good as that of fabrics prepared with the inorganic acid catalysts. Tearing strength and wrinkle re sistance of epoxide-treated cotton can be improved by inclusion of additives such as polvethylene, acrylic polymer, or silicone, in the finishing bath.
Studies on the Chlorine Retention of Fabrics Treated with Dimethylol Ethylene Urea
Authors: Mehta P.C. , Mody J.R.
Published: March 2008

Chlorine retention and loss in strength due to scorching have been reported for fabrics treated with dimethylol ethylene urea DMEU) under different conditions of processing and use. Since DMEU is theoretically not expected to be chlorine retentive, various mechanisms have been proposed in the literature to explain this anomaly. The present paper reports the results of studies designed to follow the chemical changes produced in DMEU under different conditions of treatment and to relate these to chlorine retention and damage. It has been shown that DMKU-treated fabrics contain varying amounts of >NH, >NCH2OH and > NCH 2OCH2N< groups under different conditions of treatment. All these groups lead to chlorine retention. The molar ratio of formalde hyde to cyclic ethylene urea (CEU) in the DMEU, the efficiency of the catalyst in promoting cross-linking with cellulose, the possibility of hydrolysis of the cross-links during storage or laundering, etc., are all factors affecting chlorine retention. Even under optimum conditions of processing and storage. changes are produced in the finish which increase considerably the damage due to chlorine retention, particularly when such a fabric is given repeated alkaline washings.
A Modification of the Method for Defining and Measuring Crimp of Textile Fibers1
Authors: Shiloh M. , Goldstein J. , Mejzler D. , Alexander E.
Published: March 2008

The main parameter used to describe the geometry of the crimp of a fiber is the crimp diameter. This corresponds to an average amplitude of the fiber in space while the fiber is kept in a static position of stress.

In order to measure the crimp diameter, it is necessary to measure the coordinates of a sufficient numher of points on the fibers. From these measurements, a "fiber axis" can be defined as the straight line for which the sum of squares. S. of the distances of the fiber points from this line is minimal. The crimp diameter is then defined as D=2√S N, where N is the number of points measured along the fiber.

The calculation of S according to this definition involves the solution of third-order equations. Therefore a simplified equation is suggested. It was found that this equation can. for all practical purposes, serve as a satisfactory approximation for the results obtained when S is calculated according to the definition . i.e., from the fiber axis.

In order to measure the crimp diameter, a special apparatus had to be built. A series of limitations of the rotatory crimp apparatus led to the modification of the measuring method and to the, development of the method of two perpendicular planes. This method was applied to various types of fiber, such as cotton and fine wools.
Boundary Friction of Textile Yarns
Authors: Fort Tomlinson , Olsen J.S.
Published: March 2008

A method and apparatus for determining the boundary friction of textile fibers are described. Mineral oil and oleic acid are shown to be ineffective boundary lubricants for "Dacron," 1 nylon, acetate, rayon, and polyacrylonitrile fibers. Stearic acid and n-octadecylamine reduced the boundary friction compared to that of the clean fibers. Polyacrylic acid grafted to nylon gave low boundary friction when treated with n-octa decylamine. Oleic acid formed an elective boundary film on chrome which gave low friction when rubbed by various textile fibers and was stable at temperatures up to 160° C. Lubricants had no effect on the boundary friction of "Teflon." 2 These results are interpreted in terms of adsorption of the lubricants on the rubbing surfaces.
Fiber Configuration in Sliver and Roving and its Effect on Yarn Quality
Authors: Garde A.R. , Wakankar V.A. , Bhaduri S.N.
Published: March 2008

Fiber configuration in sliver and the incidence of hooks in sliver and rovings have been studied, employing two different techniques. It has been established that during the drafting of sliver at draw frames, trailing hooks are removed preferentially as com pared to leading hooks. The direction of presentation of hooks in the ingoing material (sliver or roving) at the ring frame has been shown to have a considerable effect on yarn strength and evenness. For best results with carded yarn, the majority of hooks in the feed to the ring frame should be presented to the drafting system in a trailing direction, i.e., there should be an odd number of processes between carding and spinning.
Thermal Conductivity of Nylon Parachute Fabrics Subjected to Compressional Stresses 1
Authors: Lis S.J. , Engholm G. , Bambenek R.A.
Published: March 2008

Measurements were made of the "effective" thermal conductivity of a controlled weave sampling of eighteen different nylon fabrics which are used in parachutes. Fabric conductivity data were determined under varying conditions of compressive stress, at ambient pressure, and at a mean temperature of 190° F using a modified Cenco-Fitch apparatus. A similarity relation was obtained, from dimensional analysis, which correlated the effect of compressive load upon fabric conductivity. Limited available published data indicate that this similarity relation may also be extended to include cotton and wool fabrics as well as nylons.
Ultraviolet Microscopy of Fibers and Polymers
Authors: Felton Clinton D. , Thomas Edward J. , Clark James J.
Published: March 2008

Ultraviolet microscopy has been made practical for the industrial laboratory by the advent of an RCA image-converting vacuum tube known as the Ultrascope tube, which is incorporated in Bausch & Lomh's Ultraviolet Photo-Microscope attachment. Methods of preparing samples for ultraviolet microscopical observations are generally discussed. Examples of application are given to illustrate the unique and significant information concerning polymers and fibers that can be obtained by ultraviolet microscopical tech niques.
The Effects of Gamma Radiation on Cotton
Authors: Arthur Jett C. , Demint Robert J.
Published: March 2008

The interaction of high-energy radiation with cellulose, which leads to the formation of free radicals, excited atoms, or chemical groups, gave decreased intermolecular bond ing. This decreased bonding was probably due to the decreased number of interacting anhydroglucose units per molecule. The enthalpy of activation of viscous flow of dilute solutions of purified and irradiated cottons was relatively constant. The entropy of activation of viscous flow was negative and directly related to the molecular weight of the celluloses. Consequently, the free energy of activation of viscous flow for dilute solutions of irradiated cottons was less than for purified cotton. This indicated decreased intermolecular bondi ng in the irradiated cottons as compared with purified cotton.
A Study on the Agglomeration, Deposition, and Removal Process of Clay Particles During Washing
Authors: Tuzson John , Short Brant A.
Published: March 2008

When a piece of cloth is introduced into an agitated suspension of fine particles, interaction between the surface forces on the particles and on the cloth material occurs and results in simultaneous removal-redeposition and agglomeration-dispersion proc esses. The mechanical aspect of these processes was studied here using Kaolin clay particles, standard AHLMA cloth, and de-ionized water.

In order to monitor the changes of the suspension state, particle counts were made with the Coulter Counter.

Observed similarities between the agglomeration-dispersion process and the depo sition-removat process lend support to the assumption that forces of the same nature are responsible for both. Consequently, the agglomeration properties of other particu late soil suspensions are expected to be ultimately related to their soiling characteristics.

1 Minerals and Chemicals Corp. of America. 20 Essex Turnpike, Menlo Park, N. J. (Approx. 70% of Kaolin ASP- 400 is between 2 and 10 μ in mean diameter.)
The Polymerization of Vinyl Monomers in Cellulosic Fibers
Authors: Kaizerman S. , Mino G. , Meinhold L.F.
Published: March 2008

A method has been devised for the rapid deposition of vinyl polymers within the fibers of cotton and viscose rayon fabrics. Polymerization is effected by means of a ceric ion-cellulose redox system. Two techniques of polymer deposition are described. A high order of rot and mildew resistance, comparable to that obtained by cyano ethylation, is achieved by polyacrylonitrile deposition. The deposition of polyacryloni trile, polyacrylamide, or polyniethyl acrylate results in no major improvement in the mechanical properties of the fabrics.
Fatigue in Textile Fibers
Authors: Lyons W. James
Published: March 2008

Equipment on which six fiber specimens can be simultaneously fatigued in cyclic tension, at one common strain amplitude, has been developed and constructed. Fre quencies are continuously variable from zero to 18 cycles/sec, and the total stroke is adjustable from zero to 1 in. Provisions are made for the automatic taking up of the slack resulting from growth in each fiber and stopping of the machine at the conclusion of a test. The growth in each specimen and the time to rupture are recorded on a strip chart.

Results on two viscose samples and one experimental acrylic sample suggest that the growth that occurs during the fatiguing has two phases, in both of which the increase in extension is substantially linear with the logarithm of time. The rate of extension (per unit log time) in the initial phase is at least twice as great as in the later phase. In a third viscose sample, of high crystallinity, in which the growth rate of extension and the extensions at break were both low, the distinction between the two phases prac tically vanishes.

Fatigue lifetimes of the acrylic sample appear, from plots on probability paper of the individual lifetimes of the specimens, to conform better to a logarithmic normal distri bution than to the normal.
The Treatment of Cotton with Formaldehyde in Calcium Chloride Solutions
Authors: Chance Leon H. , Leonard Ethel K. , Reeves Wilson A.
Published: March 2008

Cotton print cloth and broadcloth were cross-linked by soaking in aqueous solutions containing calcium chloride, hydrochloric acid, and formaldehyde. The calcium chloride concentration was varied to study the effect it would have on the rate at which combined formaldehyde content and wet and dry wrinkle recovery were obtained on the fabrics. Striking differences were observed between 10% and 50% calcium chloride. Thirty-five percent calcium chloride solutions were found to be best. A typical laboratory procedure consisted in soaking the fabric samples at room temperature (28°-30°C) in a solution containing 35% CaCl2, 3.7% HCl, and 7.2% HCHO for the required length of time. Samples treated in this manner contained about 0.7% to 0.9% HCHO and had good wet and dry wrinkle recovery. The effect of time. temperature, and HCl and HCHO concentrations on reaction rates, combined HCHO content, and physical properties was also studied. Tearing strength and breaking strength retentions were in the range of 50-70%.
Residual Lipid Contaminants in Processed Wool
Authors: Anderson C.A. , Leeder J.D.
Published: March 2008

The composition of the free fatty acid remaining in wool fabric that has been washed extensively in nonionic detergent solutions has been determined by thin-layer and gas chromatography. The acids are different from those of freshly secreted wool wax and contain straight-chain (64.6%, 10 members) and unsaturated (35.4%, 13 members) acids. The major acids are n-hexadecanoic (21.3%), n-octadecanoic (33.0%), and cis-Δ9-octadecenoic (18%). No hydroxy acids are present. The origin of the acids has not been ascertained, but their composition and the treatment of the wool prior to the analysis preclude the possibility that they are suint components or soap products. By extracting the fabric with different solvents under controlled conditions, it has been shown that the lipid contaminant is situated both on the surface and inside the fiber.
A Vapor-Phase Epichlorhydrin Process for Wet and Dry Wrinkle Recovery
Authors: Ferrante Gerald R.
Published: March 2008

Epichlorohydrin vapors were used to treat cellulose in the presence of selected acid salts. After washing out of the acid catalyst, the fabrics were treated with aqueous alkali and cured under wet and dry conditions. The usual increases in wet crease recovery and, quite unexpectedly, significant increases in dry crease recovery were ob tained with either the wet or dry alkali treatment. Radiotracer techniques were utilized to obtain selected data regarding chemical reactivity. In addition the chemical reaction sequence and its relation to the above results are discussed.
Mechanism for Stretch and Recovery Properties of Certain Stretch Fabrics1
Authors: Cooper A.S. , Robinson Helen M. , Reeves Wilson A. , Sloan William G.
Published: March 2008

The crimp in all-cotton, nylon, and polyester/spandex core stretch fabrics was ex amined by physical tests and by photographic enlargements of yarns and fibers removed from the fabrics. Measurements of total crimp and crimp due to yarn crossover indicate that yarn crossover crimp, external yarn crimp, has a major influence on the stretch and recovery properties of the comfort stretch fabrics having less than 30% stretch. Hysteresis curves show that faisetwisted nylon is significantly changed by weaving and subsequent finishing treatments. Nylon yarns raveled from stretch fabrics and filaments removed from the yarn show no evidence of residual effects of fatsetwisting if the fabric has less than 30% easy strech. The limited data obtained in this study indicate that interfiber friction may play a significant part in the stretch and recovery properties of all-cotton stretch fabrics. These data also suggest that fabric design and processing procedures that promote crossover yarn crimp are the areas most likely to improve the stretch and recovery properties of a comfort stretch cotton fabric.
The Role of Alkali Metal Hydroxides in the Benzylation of Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Wade Ricardo H. , Welch Clark M.
Published: March 2008

The preparation of fibrous benzyl cellulose having a D.S. of 0.5-1.7 has been studied. Cotton yarn was reacted with benzyl chloride in the presence of alkali metal hydroxides under various conditions. A process was developed in which yarn could be benzylated to a D.S. of 0.6 within 30 min, while retaining 100% to 120% of the breaking strength and 315% to 345% of the elongation of untreated yarn.

The order of effectiveness of alkali metal hydroxides in activating cotton for benzyla tion was found to be CsOH > RbOH > KOH > NaOH > LiOH, contrary to earlier reports. The rate of benzylation was increased by a factor of 2-4 in going from lithium or sodium hydroxides to potassium, rubidium or cesium hydroxides. This order is the same as the known order of effectiveness of the alkali hydroxides in converting cellulose to cellulosate ions, but is opposite to the relative degree of swelling they produce. It is concluded that benzylation of cotton proceeds by an SN2 type displacement of chloride by cellulosate ions. The primary function of the alkali is to convert cellulose to cellulosate ions, and swelling of the cellulose is of secondary importance.
Shrinkage of Cotton Fibers in Sodium Hydroxide Solutions and Resulting Elastic Properties
Authors: Goldthwait Charles F.
Published: March 2008

Since the shrinkage of the constituent fibers represents a fundamental change during the slack mercerization of cotton yarns and fabrics, the literature on shrinkage of fibers as such in sodium hydroxide solutions has been reviewed; also that on the elastic properties of air-dry mercerized fibers in comparison with those of the original untreated fibers. It has been reported that raw cotton fibers shrink less than purified fibers. Elongation at break is increased by mercerization of fibers while they are free to shrink, but the shrunken fibers have little if any greater elastic recovery from moderate stretch than similar untreated fibers. Data are included on fibers taken from 2-ply yarns that were mercerized without tension. These fibers seem to have been completely shrunken in the yarn, in which the fibers, if free to swell, apparently shrink as a group.
Dimensional Stability and Elastic Properties of Plain Knit Wool Fabrics With and Without Wurlan Finish
Authors: Fletcher Hazel M. , Roberts S. Helen
Published: March 2008

The dimensional stability in laundering and the elastic properties of 40 experimental wool fabrics knit of 1/12, 1/24, and 1/36 worsted yarns were studied. The fabrics were knit of yarns spun from top with and without Wurlan finish. All fabrics were machine laundered five times. Dimensional changes were determined after each laundering; elastic properties were measured before laundering and after the fifth laundering.
Variation in Fine Structure of Partially Benzylated Cotton Fibers With Increasing Degree of Substitution By X-Ray Study
Authors: Manjunath B.R. , Nanjundayya C.
Published: March 2008

The mechanism of reaction of partial benzylation of cotton fibers has been followed through a systematic study of such parameters as crystallinity, crystallite size, and crystal lite orientation. Benzylation was found to be accompanied by a general loss in crystal linity of the fibers, shifting of the amorphous maximum towards the small angle region, and a possible change in the shape of crystallite. Unit cell dimensions for benzyl cel lulose with a degree of substitution less than 1 have been determined from a study of partially benzylated flax. An explanation is given for the persistence of (101) peak in amorphous benzyl cellulose.
A Study of the Mechanical Behavior of Polyimides
Authors: Cooper S.L. , Mair A.D. , Tobolsky A.V.
Published: March 2008

The mechanical properties of four different polyimide samples are measured. H-film, poly(N,N'-( p,p'-oxydiphenylene)pyromellitimide), shows no softening phenomena below 500°C. The three other polyimides exhibit a definite softening at elevated temperatures. All of the samples investigated show evidence of chemical reaction and eventual deRrada tion taking place above 400°C.

While x-ray techniques show H-film to be slightly crystalline, the other polyimides display typical amorphous scattering patterns.

Annealing raises the softening temperature and induces crystallinity in one of the samples.

Factors such as the purity of starting materials and the complete conversion to polyimide linkage must be considered when comparing the mechanical properties of these various polyimides.
Some Properties of Benzoylated Cotton
Authors: Arthur Jett C. , Mares Trinidad , McLean George
Published: March 2008

Protection of fibrous cotton cellulose from weathering degradation and from degrada tion on exposure to high energy radiation (as measured by breaking strength retention), by substitution of benzoyl groups on the cellulose molecule, was demonstrated. It can be concluded that the presence of the benzoyl groups affected the absorption of incident energy by the cellulose molecule and/or the localization of energy within the molecule.
Residual Lipid Contaminants in Processed Wool: Effect on Permanganate-Salt Shrinkproofing
Authors: Anderson C.A. , Leeder J.D.
Published: March 2008

The effect of the site and composition of lipid-type contaminants on the permanganate- salt shrinkproofing process has been studied. Contaminant on the fiber surface ad versely affects the shrinkproofing reaction, although most of the extractable matter is situated inside the fibers.

Additives which might be expected to contaminate wool during normal processing were applied to the fabric ; their effect on the shrinkproofing treatment varied with the chemical nature of the additives.
Study of the Phenomena of Diffusion and Adsorption of Direct Dyes in Viscose Fibers by the Method of Differential Dyeing
Authors: Iwanow N. , Schneider R.
Published: March 2008

An original method is described which allows to study the axial dyeing of viscose fiber populations (batches, yarns, fabrics). This method is characterized by the simultaneous dyeing of a few thousands fiber segments and by the statistical treat ment of the measured axial penetrations plotting frequency curves and determining their parameters). For an invariable dyeing time, the mean (or median) penetration varies considerably from one population or kind of viscose fibers to another. A thorough study of the mechanisms of differential dyeing showed that the Hermans coefficient of penetration is not a constant but varies with the dyeing time; also viscose fibers im mersed in an aqueous medium undergo a continuous modification, teaching the equi librium after a long time. The differential dyeing method can be used to study viscose fibers and to control their variation during all stages of their production and processing; this is illustrated by numerous examples of analyses of streaks in commercially dyed fabrics. The results constitute a basis for a more general study of the dyeing mecha nisms in viscose fibers and for a further extension of this method of investigation to other fibers..
Liquid Rise Between Filaments in a V-Configuration
Authors: Miller Bernard , Coe Arthur B. , Ramachandran P.N.
Published: March 2008

A new experimental approach is described for obtaining a quantitative measure of the wettability of filaments. This technique is based on the spontaneous capillary rise of liquid between two filament surfaces held in an adjustable v-shaped arrangement. No contact angle measurements are necessary, all information being obtained from simple length readings. The apparatus allows a filament sample to be tested in different liquids and conditioned without being removed from the test mounting. Results are expressed in terms of the free energy of wetting. Some dependency on filament spacing at the liquid source level has been observed, but none connected with the angle between them.
Nuclear Magnetic Resonance Spectra of the Hydrolysis Products of Dimethylolethyleneurea and of Cotton Reacted with Dimethylolethyleneurea
Authors: Miles Sylvia H. , Wall James H. , McCall Elizabeth R.
Published: March 2008

To obtain a better understanding of the breakdown of the crosslink between cotton cellulose and N-methylolethyleneurea compounds, it was desirable to identify the products of the acid hydrolysis of dimethylolethyleneurea (DMEU) and of fabric treated with DMEU. An approach to the identification of these hydrolysis products was made through a study of their nuclear magnetic resonance spectra. To interpret these spectra, an examination of spectra of some simpler urea derivatives was necessary. Evidence indicates that the products of miad acid hydrolysis of DMEU are unhydrolyzed DMEU, N-methylolethyleneurea, ethyleneurea and two polymeric forms of formaldehyde. The ethyleneurea ring was found to be stable to the hydrolysis conditions employed.
Some Mechanical Properties of Swollen and Stretched Cotton Using Different Swelling Agents
Authors: Joshi V.S. , Shelat B.R. , Radhakrishnan T.
Published: March 2008

Bundles of cotton fibers were given swelling and stretching treatment using three different swelling agents, namely, sodium hydroxide, ethylene diamine, and zinc chloride in aqueous solution. The mechanical properties of the treated fibers are found to be dependent on their x-ray orientation factors and also on the nature of the swelling agent used. Lateral order, as measured by x-ray crystallinity, has not been found to be very important in relation to mechanical properties. A very strong and general correlation has been found to hold good between the tensile strength and static Young's modulus of the fibers.
Prediction of Stretch-Woven Fabric Behavior From False-Twist Textured Filament Yarn Properties
Authors: Butterworth G.A.M. , Platt M.M. , Singleton R.W. , Sprague B.S.
Published: March 2008

This paper is concerned with the significance of stretch-textured yarn properties in relation to the character and properties of filling stretch fabrics constructed from them. The study deals with a series of commercially produced false-twist textured polyester and polyamide multifilament yarns having various filament and yarn denier combinations made under different stretch texture processing conditions. These yarns represent differ ent combinations of stretch and bulk texture and cover the range of shrinkage properties and yarn geometries usually employed in the construction of woven stretch fabrics.

Each of the false-twist textured yarns was used to construct filling stretch fabrics containing different combinations of weave type, weave texture, and warp yarn count. All of the test fabrics were commercially finished by conventional means to achieve maximum filling stretch potential and were subsequently tested to evaluate fabric stretch performance characteristics. Data obtained during the performance of this work have led to the conclusion that one can obtain a physically meaningful correlation between yam and fabric properties by considering retraction force in addition to linear yam shrinkage. fabric weave type, and fabric cover factors. Prediction of fabric stretch from the properties of false-twist textured yarns depends upon the ability of the yarn test and evaluation procedures to duplicate the loading and mechanical restraint histories experi enced by the yarn during its conversion into woven and finished fabric.

The merits of using loom-state as opposed to off-loom dimensions as a basis for computing fabric shrinkage and, hence, computing fabric stretch, are discussed.
Studies of Soiling and Detergency
Authors: Grindstaff T.H. , Patterson H.T. , Billica H.R.
Published: March 2008

A study was made of the transfer of compounds, similar to those found in human sebum, from cellulose to polyethylene terephthalate films and the deposition of these soils on polymer films from surfactant and aqueous solutions. The polymer films were used as end windows of a Geiger tube. The soils were labeled with radioactive 14carbon so that the amount of sorbed material could be continuously monitored. The effect of variables such as detergent type, detergent concentration, temperature, sorption time, addition of sodium carboxymethylcellulose, and soil concentration on deposition have been investigated. Results are discussed in terms of possible mechanisms for soil depo sition and changes in wash conditions that should reduce deposition on man-made polymers.
Creaseproofing Cotton by in Situ Polymerization of N-Methylol Acrylamide (NMA), Acrylamide (AM), and Tetrakis (Hydroxymethyl) Phosphonium Chloride (THPC)
Authors: Warburton C.E.
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabric was impregnated with partially methylolated acrylamide, THPC, and zinc acetate, then cured and washed. In situ polymerization was encouraged. In a second step, fabric was padded with ceric ammonium nitrate catalyst, cured, and washed. A very favorable balance of crease recovery 1/tensile strength was obtained when condi tioned crease recovery angles (W + F) were less than 260°. However, beyond this angle, strength loss increased rapidly with increasing crease recovery and approached that of conventional treatments. If the balance of crease recovery/tensile strength is optimized, there is not sufficient phosphorus in the fabric for flameproofing.
Hydrophilic Polymer Surfaces Via Radiation-Chemical Treatments
Authors: Hoffman A.S. , Berbeco G.R.
Published: March 2008

Nylon film and fabric and polyester film substrates have been treated to render their surfaces more hydrophilic. Pre- irradiation in air was followed by treatments in solutions containing acrylic acid, sodium styrene sulfonate, N-methylol acrylamide, polyethylene oxide and water. The relative effectiveness of the different treatments was estimated by measur ing contact angles of water on the polymer film surfaces. A nylon fabric was also radiation-grafted and it exhibited significantly improved stain release under water.
Preliminary Investigations of Feasibility of Weaving Triaxial Fabrics (Doweave)
Authors: Dow Norris F. , Tranfield George
Published: March 2008

Studies were carried out to determine the feasibility of weaving triaxial fabrics (Doweave) in tight, low-porosity con figurations, and to investigate the stability and isotropy of triaxially woven fabrics. Detailed analyses of yarn motions required in triaxial weaving cycles disclosed no fundamental problems to prevent the achievement of tight fabrics woven of fine yarns. A breadboard loom, assembled to produce samples, confirmed to a degree the analytic predictions of loom configuration precision required to yield quality triaxial fabrics. Guidelines were generated for extending weaving capa bilities for full-scale production.
Open-End Spinning The Problem of Fiber Opening and Yam Formation
Authors: Krause H.W. , Soliman H.A.
Published: March 2008

The principles of open-end spinning are reviewed. This is followed by a discussion of the problems of fiber opening and yarn formation. Data on spinning trials are given. Considerable progress in open-end spinning for coarse yarns is predicted.
Nature of the Swollen State as Determined from Tensile Properties After Cross-Linking
Authors: Wade Ricardo H. , Vigo Tyrone L.
Published: March 2008

Changes in internal fiber structure of cotton during swelling and tensioning were determined from the effects of these changes on physical properties imparted by cross-linking with dimethylolethyleneurea (DMEU). Cotton yarns were swollen with various agents and subjected to tension during swelling and subsequent washing. Dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), aqueous benzyltrimethylammonium hydroxide (BTOH), and solutions of KI and KCNS in NaOH were used as swelling agents. The effect on structure caused by repeated cycling between slack and original length during the base-swollen stage was judged from the effect of subsequent low-level cross-linking on physical properties. Resin pickup and distribution in the yarns were controlled by high-speed centrifugation.

The type and concentration of swelling agent are related to the form and degree of tension needed during the swelling steps to produce optimum properties after cross-linking. Improvement of physical properties after cross-linking was found to correlate with increased crystallite orientation over a part of the range studied. The relationship between degree of conversion of native cotton to Cellulose II and energy-to-rupture values is discussed. The characteristic features of low- level cross-linking previously observed in the fiber fragmentation patterns of yarns treated with DMEU, centrifuged to a low wet pickup, and cured, were also seen in the samples repeatedly swollen and restretched prior to DMEU treatment, centrifuging, and curing.
A Monochromatic Method for Measuring the Apparent Soil of Dyed Carpeting
Authors: Costanza Peter A.
Published: March 2008

Reflectance methods have been investigated for measuring the ability of the fiber in dyed carpeting to retard or "hide" soil. The ideal method should be able to eliminate the effect of color which may mask or accentuate apparent soil. A method which approaches this ideal consists of measuring reflectance before and after soiling by using an interference filter with a bandpass centered at a wavelength close to the dominant wavelength of each color. This method reduces the effect of color sufficiently that the average calculated apparent soil for a set of 16 differently colored carpets soiled equally is significantly different from that of the same set of carpets after the addition of a small amount of soil (0.06% owf). Two other methods, one with a Y-tristimulus filter and another with three tristimulus filters (total color change), are not suitable for this type of evaluation.
Interferometric Studies on Fibers
Authors: Barakat N.
Published: March 2008

Mathematical expressions are derived for the shape of multiple-beam Fizeau fringes and the associated white-light fringes of equal chromatic order crossing a fiber of circular cross section having a core surrounded by a skin. Formulas are obtained for calculating the refractive indices of the core from fringe shifts. A formula is deduced for a fiber having a single medium. An expression for the focal power of a cylindrical fiber is derived and the focal aberration across it is calculated.
Absorption of Formaldehyde by Wool
Authors: Reddie R.N. , Nicholls C.H.
Published: March 2008

A radiochemical method has been used to follow the course of reaction of formaldehyde with wool. The amount of formaldehyde absorbed from aqueous solutions was dependent on the conditions of treatment. It was found that the pH of the solution, the concentration of formaldehyde in the solution, and the treatment time and temperature markedly affect the extent of the wool-formaldehyde reaction. The presence of salt in the solution has some modifying effect on the uptake of formaldehyde by wool, and there are some apparent differences in the effects of different salts.

The amount of formaldehyde bound by the wool was affected by the rinsing conditi ons to which the formalized material was subjected, indicating that not all of the absorbed formaldehyde was present in the form of stable products; this was confirmed by the gradual loss of formaldehyde from formalized wool on exposure to the atmosphere.
Interaction between Polyethylenimine and Human Hair
Authors: Da Chow Carl
Published: March 2008

An irreversible penetration of [14C] polyethylenimine into a human hair was demonstrated by radioactive-tracer technique. Under ambient conditions, 1% of the imine diffused into the hair in an hour. Desoprtion of the imine was rather slow; most of the imine could not be washed out by an untagged imine solution in 24 hr indicating a possible strong interaction between the imine and the hair. The results are assumed to be applicable to the untagged imine. The swelling rate of hair in distilled water and the swelling behavior of hair in the imine were studied by light micro scopic observation. When dry hair was wetted with deionized water, a 36 ± 7% swelling was found in 24 hr. The degree of hair swelling by the imine was much greater at pH 7 than at higher pH.

The effect of pH, concentration, and temperature on the swelling of the hair in the imine and some aspects of the permanent-waving mechanism by using the imine have been postulated and discussed.
The Discontinuous Nature of Epicuticle on the Surface of Keratin Fibers
Authors: Leeder J.D. , Bradbury J.H.
Published: March 2008

There has been considerable controversy over the question of whether the epicuticle forms a continuous outer sheath on keratin fibers or surrounds each cuticle cell individually. The evidence advanced by earlier workers in support of the former concept is reassessed critically and reinterpreted in other ways. At the same time, the formation of Allwörden sacs on isolated cuticle cells and other results show that the latter concept is correct, viz, that the epicuticle surrounds each cell individually and, hence, forms part of the cell membrane complex.
Effect of Dimethyl Sulfoxide on Chemical and Physical Properties of Wool
Authors: Friedman Mendel , Koenig N.H.
Published: March 2008

A study was made of the chemical reactivity of wool in dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) as well as the effect of DMSO and related aprotic solvents on the physical properties of wool. Some functional groups in wool, especially amino groups of lysine and imidazole groups of histidine, are readily modified in DMSO in the presence of triethylamine by activated vinyl compounds (e.g., acrylonitrile and (di)vinyl sulfone). Treatment with vinyl sulfone increases the resistance of wool to oxidation by peracetic acid, suggesting that new cross links are present. Also studied were (a) the relative reactivities in aqueous, aqueous-DMSO, and DMSO media; (b) the supercontraction of wool and densification of felts by DMSO; (c) the effect of heating wool in DMSO on amino acid composition; and (d) stress relaxation of hair, including sulfhydryl- disulfide interchange. Our studies suggest that DMSO is a useful medium in which to modify wool with various reagents. In some applications, DMSO has advantages over water.
Practical Aspects of Drafting Tenacity of Cotton at the Ring Spinning Frame
Authors: Audivert R. , De Castellar María D.
Published: March 2008

Drafting tenacity was measured at the front draft zone of double-apron drafting system used in cotton spinning. The results show the relationship between drafting tenacity and fiber length and micronaire, fiber bundle tenacity, fiber parallelization at the front draft rolls, fly liberated at the ring frame, and tenacity-to-break of the spun yarn. Generally, good correlations were found between these factors and drafting tenacity.
Effect of Tuft Characteristics in Opening Room on Yarn Properties
Authors: Sripathi R.
Published: March 2008

This study deals with the effect of tuft size and its variation on lap uniformity, carding quality, and yarn properties. Three different types of tufts (small, big, and blend) have been covered in 40s, 80s, and 30s counts from suitable cottons and staple fiber.

Results of this study show that, while opening the cotton in opening room, it is essential to ensure that the tufts are made into small and uniform size for producing even laps and better-quality yarns. Higher variation in tuft properties may affect count and strength variation significantly.
Pyrolysis and Combustion of Cellulose
Authors: Yeh Kwan-Nan , Barker Robert H.
Published: March 2008

A series of cotton fabrics treated with model flame retardants has been studied by static oxygen bomb calorimetry. The amount of heat evolved when these fabrics were burned in the open atmosphere has been determined indirectly using calculations based on Hess' law of summation. This heat evolution was found to correlate with the efficiency of the flame retardant treatment and was interpretable in terms of mechanisms of flame retardant action.
The Compression by Liquid Stress and the Permeability of Assemblies of Wool Fibers
Authors: Samson A.
Published: March 2008

The permeability relationships and wet compressibility of scoured wool, card sliver, tops, and fabrics were determined by applying flowing water under pressure. Dry and wet assemblies of wool fibers were also compressed mechanically and the pressure-volume relationships obtained.

Critical Reynold's numbers have been evaluated for flow through loose wool fibers, and the characteristics of the types of flow within compressible porous media have been discussed.

Loose wool fibers when wet were more resistant to compression than an equal mass of dry fibers; also, fabrics were less permeable and compressible than equivalent areal densities of loose wool at pressures up to 8 atm.
A Study of Tensile Properties of Twill-Woven Fabrics
Authors: Varma D.S , Chakraberty M.
Published: March 2008

Four 8-end twill-weave structures (1/7, 2/6, 315, and 4/4) were chosen to study the tensile behavior of fabrics in relation to the varying float length and the number of picks per inch. For each weave structure at a given warp set, a range of picks per inch was woven. Warp sets were 30, 44, and 60 ends per inch. The results indicate that, with increase in float length, the warp strength decreases. With increasing float length, localization of rupture and binding effect decrease, thereby reducing the strength. There is practically no effect of tloat length on the weft strengths. Further, the wap strength of the fabric increases with picks per inch ul to a certain limit and then it starts decreasing This limit depends upon the nature of the weave. Atso, the dependence of elongation on maximum float length and number of picks per inch is discussed
Partial Cellulose Esters of Unsaturated Monobasic Acids
Authors: Benerito Ruth R. , Berni Ralph J. , McKelvey John B.
Published: March 2008

The effects of the method of esterification on fabric properties of cottons esterified to a low degree of substitu tion (D.S. = 0.2) with unsaturated monobasic acids have been studied. Partial cellulose esters of similar D.S. prepared by the following four methods have been compared: (1) acid chloride in dimethylformamide and pyridine at 105°C, (2) acid and trifluoroacetic anhydride in benzene at 25°C, (3) cotton pretreated with aqueous NaOH and reacted with acid chloride in CCl4 at 35°C, and (4) cotton converted to sodium cellulosate in nonaqueous medium and then reacted with acid chloride in dimethylformamide and pyridine at temperatures ranging from 25°C to 105°C.
Drafting Force Measurement as an Aid to Cotton Spinning
Authors: Graham John S. , Bragg Charles K.
Published: March 2008

Three length groups of cotton (1.04, 1.09, and 1.15 in. 2.5% span length), each comprising 8 two-bale mixes, were spun on a Tru-Set (Saco-Lowell Duo-Roth) drafting system at four different cradle openings centered about the cradle opening that gave minimum end breakage for 40s carded yarn. Drafting force measurements made on a Spin-Draft Tester dupli cating the Tru-Set drafting system showed drafting force for minimum spinning end breakage to be approximately 12.5 g for all of the cotton lengths tested. In another spinning test, drafting force and drafting force variability measured at a constant cradle setting were correlated with spinning efficiency measured at optimum cradle setting For drafting force vs spinning efficiency, the simple correlation coefficient, r, was +0.84, and for drafting force variability vs spinning efficiency r was -0.88.
Photogreening of Wool—Energy of Formation and Intensification in the Dark
Authors: Launer Herbert F.
Published: March 2008

The greening of wool in normal air is caused by ultraviolet light at various wavelengths, 303 mμ and shorter, corre sponding to photon energies of 94.4 kcal and above. The green color, which normally disappears in thermal reactions in the presence of O2 and H 2O, increases considerably in dry nitrogen in the dark. The significance of these findings is discussed,