bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Preparing a Core-Sheath Bicomponent Fiber of Poly(butylene Terephthalate)/Poly(butylene Succinate-co-L-lactate)
Authors: El-Salmawy Ahmed , Miyamoto Masatoshi , Kimura Yoshiharu
Published: March 2008

A core-sheath bicomponent fiber is melt-spun by co-extrusion of poly(butylene tereph thalate) (PBT) as the core and poly(butylene succinate-co-L-lactate) (PBSL) as the sheath. The resulting melt-drawn fiber is continuously guided to cold-drawing at 80°C. The core/sheath ratio of the melt-drawn fiber increases with increasing melt-draw ratio at a constant extrusion of the two polymers, because the melt viscosity of PBT is much higher than that of PBSL. The tensile strength of the final drawn fiber increases with increasing melt-draw ratio. The highest strength is obtained at a core/sheath ratio of 65/35. Scanning electron micrographs of the cross-sectioned fibers reveal that the adhesion of both polymers at the interface is strong. The core-sheath fibers are then treated with alkali or a lipase solution for hydrolysis of the PBSL sheath at mild conditions where PBT receives no hydrolysis. The treated fibers, consisting only of PBT, show a very smooth surface. Their tensile strength and orientation are slightly lower than those of the original bicomponent fibers, maintaining a high level of quality as apparel material. These data suggest that conjugate fibers consisting of biodegradable and ordinary polyesters can be used for the environmentally friendly denier reduction treatment of polyester fibers.
Objective Evaluation of Garment Seams Using 3D Laser Scanning Technology
Authors: Fan J. , Liu F.
Published: March 2008

This paper reports on the development of an objective method for evaluating the degree of puckering in garment seams. With this method, a garment is put on a dummy and a seam is scanned by a 3D laser scanning system. The geometric surface of the scanned seam is then processed with a 2D digital filter to obtain a pucker profile by removing the "high frequency" components due to the fabric surface texture and the "low frequency" components due to three-dimensional garment surface contours. From the pucker profile, we can derive a physical parameter, log (σ2), which is linearly related to the subjective pucker grade. From the objectively measured log (σ2), we can objectively evaluate the pucker grade of the garment seam.
Effect of Changes in Knit Structure and Density on the Mechanical and Hand Properties of Weft-Knitted Fabrics for Outerwear
Authors: Choi Mee-Sung , Ashdown Susan P.
Published: March 2008

This study focuses on the mechanical properties of weft knits for outerwear as a function of knit structure and density and the relationships between hand, structure, and density. Eighteen weft knits are produced with six different structures (1 × 1 rib, half-cardigan rib, half-milano rib, interlock, single-pique, and crossmiss interlock) and three different densities (loose, medium, tight). The mechanical properties and hand values of the fabrics are measured using the KES-F method. Tensile properties increase for fabrics with a higher density, as do bending and shear properties. Compression values decrease somewhat as knit density increases but differences in compression values are not very large. Surface properties such as softness and smoothness increase with density. Specific findings for tensile properties reveal that the single-pique and the crossmiss interlock can not absorb external stress as much as the 1 × 1 rib and the interlock when stresses are applied in the course direction. Knits with tuck and miss stitches (half- cardigan rib, half-milano rib, single-pique, and crossmiss interlock) have better dimen sional stability than fabrics with only knit stitches. Testing of primary hand values shows increased stiffness and fullness and softness and decreased smoothness as knit density increases. Total hand value increases with knit density. Double knits show higher total hand values than single knits. Half-milano rib and crossmiss interlock structures have the highest total hand values. Based on the tests results and an understanding of current market needs for dimensionally stable fabrics with a soft hand, we conclude that knit structures with combined miss and tuck stitches exhibit properties appropriate for outer wear fabrics for the winter season.
Role of Hydroxypropylcellulose in Free Radical Induced Reactions of the Anthraquinone Based Textile Dye, Uniblue A
Authors: Das Suresh , Kamat Prashant V. , Mccallum Jeremy E.B. , Rojas Wahl Roy U. , Madison Stephen A.
Published: March 2008

Radical reactions that involve one-electron reduction and oxidation of the anthraqui none based dye, Uniblue A, are studied by pulse radiolysis in the presence and absence of hydroxypropyl cellulose, a water soluble cellulose model. The dye is readily reduced by e aq- and 2-propanol radicals in aqueous solution. A comparison of the transient spectrum obtained in the reaction of the dye molecules and hydroxyl radicals with those from the reaction with one-electron oxidants, such as SO4*- and N3*, suggests that hydroxyl radicals react by means of both electron-transfer and adduct formation. In radiolytic experiments where the concentration of hydroxypropyl cellulose greatly exceeds that of Uniblue A, hydroxyl radicals react exclusively with the soluble cellulose to generate cellulose radicals. Subsequent reaction of the cellulose radicals with Uniblue A leads to the formation of the one-electron oxidized form of the dye.
Effects of Epoxide and Silicone Polymers on the Mechanical and Performance Properties of Wool Fabric
Authors: Su Jin Moon  , Tae Jin Kang
Published: March 2008

To improve the wrinkle recovery as well as the performance properties of garments, wool fabric is treated separately with epoxide, silicone polymers, and a mixture of the two, where the two reagents are sequentially applied in a simple pad-dry-cure process. Each reagent improves the wrinkle recovery of wool by a different mechanism. The epoxide improves wrinkle recovery by changing the viscoelastic properties of wool fibers and increasing their resilience. This contrasts with silicone polymers, which act largely by decreasing the frictional component of wrinkling through the formation of a thin film of polymers on the fiber surface. Electron spectroscopy of chemical analysis is used to investigate the chemical changes. Mechanical properties closely related to wrinkle recov ery of treated fabrics are analyzed in relation to changes in the structure of the fibers. The effects of the silicone polymer and epoxide on the wrinkle recovery of wool fabric are additive when the reagents are applied in a two-stage procedure. Fabrics treated by this method show better abrasion resistance, high tear strength, and better hand than fabrics treated solely with the epoxide.
Determining Mechanical Properties of Yarns and Two-Ply Cords from Single-Filament Data
Authors: Zimliki David A. , Kennedy John M. , Hirt Douglas E. , Reese Glen P.
Published: March 2008

Part I provided a detailed description of a model developed to predict the mechanical properties of yarns and cords from single-filament properties. The objective in Part II is to assess the accuracy of the model by comparing predicted results with experimental data. Multifilament PET yams were obtained from various manufacturing facilities. For all but one case, the bundles were formed into twisted yams and two-ply cords using laboratory- scale equipment. The model shows good agreement with experimental force-elongation data, although there is some deviation at higher twist levels. This discrepancy is likely due to slight non-uniformities present in the laboratory-produced yarns and cords. A cord with a high level of twist and uniformity produced at a manufacturing site demonstrates excellent agreement between model and experimental results. As an example of its predictive capabilities, the model calculates the elongation to break and tenacity at break within 5% of the experimental value for the vast majority of twisted yarns and cords studied.
Friction of Cotton Yarn in Relation to Fluff Formation on Circular Knitting Machines
Authors: Koo Young-Seok , Kim Han-Do
Published: March 2008

The problem of fluff formation on circular knitting machines from spun yarns like cotton is investigated in order to study the amount of fluff with respect to knitting conditions, including yam tension, yam feeding speed, and angle. A novel test-rig is designed to measure tension variation and the extent of fluff generation. The results demonstrate that the amount of fluff is influenced by yarn tension, which is caused by yarn friction with the knitting elements.
A Portable Tester for Nondestructively Measuring Fabric Properties
Authors: Fan J. , Gardiner I.V. , Hunter L.
Published: March 2008

A measurement technique for fabric extensibility, thickness, and compressibility is presented. The method uses a portable fabric testing apparatus that measures in a rapid and nondestructive manner. The apparatus is evaluated by measuring the properties of a wide range of woven fabrics. Results are validated by comparison with measurements obtained with FAST (fabric assurance by simple tests) system.
Retting Flax with Endopolygalacturonase from Rhizopus oryzae
Authors: Akin Danny E. , Slomczynski David , Rigsby Luanne L. , Eriksson Karl-Erik L.
Published: March 2008

Retting, which is the process of separating fibers from nonfiber tissues in bast plants, is the major problem in processing flax for linen, and new methods, especially enzyme retting, are being pursued to overcome this problem. Production of an endopolygalact uronase (EPG) from Rhizopus oryzae, which was isolated earllir from dew retted flax, is optimized, and the enzyme is subsequently purified and characterized. Purified EPG is evaluated for its efficiency in retting flax alone and in combination with other cell wall degrading enzymes. The Fried test, light and scanning electron microscopy, and fiber strength and fineness properties indicate that EPG alone (without additional enzymes) plus chelator gives retting efficiencies similar to previously used enzyme mixtures. The addition to EPG of pectin methyl esterase, pectin lyase. xylanase, or endoglucanase does not improve retting efficiency or strength and fineness properties of the retted flax fibers over EPG alone. Spray enzyme retting of a 50 g flax sample with EPG/chelator formulation produces retted flax fibers with strength and fineness properties similar to those retted with a commercial enzyme mixture. Our results indicate that EPG is of paramount importance in flax retting, and they suggest an opportunity, through cloning technology, to produce a consistently effective but simplified enzyme formulation for flax retting.
Fuzz and Pills Evaluated on Knitted Textiles by Image Analysis
Authors: Jensen Kare L. , Carstensen ens Michael
Published: March 2008

An automatic method has been developed with digital image analysis. The method uses background from the fuzz and pills on the textile with an automatically generated Fourier mask. An evaluation feature is calculated from values enclosed in the power spectrum by the Fourier mask. The image analysis evaluation results are in agreement with evaluations from a textile expert group, thus suggesting that it is reasasonable to use the method objectively to evaluate knitted fabrics.
Dimensional and Surface Properties of Plasma and Silicone Treated Wool Fabric
Authors: Min Sun Kim  , Tae Jin Kang
Published: March 2008

To improve the dimensional properties of wool fabric, two kinds of silicone polymers are applied to plasma pretreated wool. With this treatment, hygral expansion increases slightly but still remains smaller than that of silicone treated wool without the plasma pretreatment. The wrinkle recovery angles of wool increase with the treatment, and the values of fabric treated with plasma and silicone polymers are higher than those with no plasma pretreatment. In addition, the harsher handle imparted by plasma modification is improved with silicone treatment. The results show that the plasma pretreatment modifies the cuticle surface of the wool fibers and increases the reactivity of the wool fabric toward silicone polymers. Therefore, the combination of plasma and silicone treatments can improve the dimensional stability, wrinkle resistance, and performance properties of the wool. Surface smoothness of the treated fabrics as measured with a new evaluation system shows good correspondence with results from a KES-FB4 surface tester.
Preparing Chitosan-Poly(acrylic Acid) Composite Fibers by Self-Assembly at an Aqueous Solution Interface
Authors: Ohkawa Kousaku , Ando Masayoshi , Shirakabe Yoshiaki , Takahashi Yae , Yamada Masanori , Shirai Hirofusa , Yamamoto Hiroyuki
Published: March 2008

In this work, we describe chitosan-poly(acrylic acid) (PAA) fibers formed at the interface of aqueous solutions by means of polyion complex (PIC) formation between chitosan and PAA. We examine the spinning conditions, tensile strengths, and load-extensibility curves of the chitosan-PAA PIC fibers. Chitosan-PAA fibers are spinnable by gravity and by wet spinning in ethanol. The resulting chitosan-PAA composite fibers are water-insoluble, and the highest tensile strength is 20 kgf/mm 2 using 1.0% chitosan and 1.0% PAA. From the load-extensibility curves, chitosan-PAA fibers exhibit higher softness and toughness than chitosan-gellan fibers, as we previously reported. Thus, the chitosan-PAA PIC fiber is a new composite fiber composed of a polysaccharide and a vinyl polymer.
Determining the Molecular Weight Distribution of Cotton Cellulose: A New GPC Solvent
Authors: Rousselle Marie-Alice
Published: March 2008

Dimethylimidazolidinone/lithium chloride (DMI/LiCL) is shown to be an effective solvent system for a variety of celluloses, including the high molecular weight cellulose of cotton, when a swelling pretreatment in sodium hydroxide is incorporated. DMI/0.5% LiCl is suitable for use as a mobile phase in gel permeation chromatography to determine the molecular weight of cellulose. The results of using the DMI/LiCl solvent system to determine molecular weight parameters (number-average, weight-average, and peak mo lecular weight) of a variety of celluloses (cotton, rayon, tencel, linen, ramie, flax, kenaf) are reported.
A Combinatorial Method for Developing Deep Dye Polyesters
Authors: Schiraldi David A. , Martin Denise L.
Published: March 2008

In situ generation of copolyesters of PET, followed by test tube screening with a textile dyestuff under mild conditions, produces a rank ordering of dye uptakes mimicking that obtained with independently produced copolymers and with (in some cases) textile dyeing of polyester fibers. From these results, we find that PEG is a generally superior diol polyester modifier, that adipate is superior to the lower molecular weight succinate and the higher molecular weight dodecanedioate, and that adipate-PEG combinations are highly effective at improving PET dyeability. The strategy of incorporating diacid modifiers into the polyester during melt polymerization, then incorporating diol modifiers by means of alcoholysis, appears to be an effective means of generating a large library of modified polymers in a relatively short period of time.
Differential-Twist Wrapped Yarns Made on a Hollow Spindle Spinning Machine
Authors: Xin Li  , Jianghun Zhang  , Jiexin Li
Published: March 2008

A hollow spindle wrapped yarn is a new yarn consisting of a core yarn and a wrapping yarn. In order to improve the wrapped yarn' strength and evenness, it is twisted after the wrapping course in this research, thus forming a differential-twist wrapped yarn. The yarn has a particular differential-twist structure, caused by the different twists and twist directions between the wrapping yarn and the core yarn. The general equation of a twist's change in the twisting course is t' = t ± cos2 β. This paper discusses two differential-twist wrapped yarns; one is the SWF (strand-wrapping filament) yarn, and the other is the Fws (filament-wrapping strand) yarn. With increased wrapping twists and twisting twists, the yam's tenacity increases, elongation rises, irregularity decreases, and abrasion resistance strengthens. The two yarns have different properties and structures, leading to different fabric styles.
Appearance of Fibers from Trichosurus vulpecula (Opossum)
Authors: Gore S.E. , Laing R.M.
Published: March 2008

Samples of opossum fibers are examined using scanning electron microscopy to describe their appearance, including any visible damage that may have resulted from early processing. Variations in the surface morphology among individual fibers and along the length of a single fiber are observed. Even tile-like, rounded tile-like, wave-like, and cornet-like scales are present, most with smooth surfaces and smooth scale margins. The mean fiber length and diameter are 29 mm and 19.89 μm, respectively, and neither fiber length nor diameter seems related to scale type. Breaks accompanied by transverse and longitudinal cracking, fibrillar failure, buckling, and peeling back of scales are evident in fibers extracted by machine. No damage is visible on bleached fibers.
Effects of Some Surfactants as Stabilizers to Reduce the Phase Separation Rates of Blended Pastes for Warp Sizing
Authors: Zhifeng Zhu  , Yaohua Li
Published: March 2008

Reducing the phase-separation rates of starch/PVA blend pastes for warp sizing by adding a small amount of surfactant as a stabilizer is investigated. The effects of reducing the separation rates or raising the stability of the blended pastes are evaluated in terms of initial demixing time and volume percentage of phase separation. Surfactants such as sodium dodecylsulfate, sodium dodecylsulfonate, Tween 20, and Span 20 are individually evaluated. The type and amount of the surfactant strongly affect the phase-separation rates or the paste stability. Sodium dodecylsufate and sodium dodecylsulfonate effectively retard phase separation and enhance paste stability, whereas Tween 20 and Span 20 do not. Increasing the amount of sodium dodecylsulfate favorably reduces the separation rates. Moreover, the effects of starch content and PVA type on the separation are also investigated.
Influence of Different Guar Thickeners on Interactions with Monoreactive Dyes and Cellulose Fibers
Authors: Kokol Vanja , Turk Sonja Šostar , Schneider Reinhold
Published: March 2008

The suitability of carboxymethyl guar derivatives as thickeners in reactive printing of viscose fabrics is investigated. We show the influence of different guar thickeners on the stiffness of viscose fabric printed with monoreactive vinylsulphone dyes. The conse quences of interactions that are proportional to the bending rigidity of prints are confirmed with the quantity of residual add-on and with IR spectroscopy. The interactions depend on the macromolecular structure of the guar thickener, its degree of polydispersity, and the number of free reactive OH groups able to react with guar molecules. We conclude that higher bending rigidity is the result of physicochemical binding of guar molecules on the viscose fibers by means of hydrogen and/or ether bonds by free OH groups. Hydroxyl groups of monoreactive dyes also increase bending rigidity as a result of chemical interaction with the OH groups of guar and viscose.
Influence of Fiber Length Distribution on Strength Efficiency of Fibers in Yarn
Authors: Zeidman Mishu , Sawhney Paul S.
Published: March 2008

The tensile and tear strengths and hence the durability of a cotton fabric are greatly influenced by the length and strength of cotton fibers in addition to the fabric structure. This is so because fiber length to a large extent determines yam strength, which ultimately contributes to fabric strength. Also, fiber length and its distribution affect fiber processing and hence yarn performance during subsequent mechanical processing, including knitting and weaving. Therefore, fiber length distribution and its ultimate effect on the yarn strength are important. To better understand the length-strength relationship in cotton fibers, we have tried to model the strength of fibers assemblies in a yarn, based on some simple assumptions. In this model, we address an important issue of friction among adjacent fibers in a yarn structure and also introduce and derive a new parameter called the "strength efficiency" of fibers in a yarn, which may contribute to an understanding of the yarn failure mechanism. The paper should be helpful to the scientific community involved in improving the properties of cotton fibers, yarns, and fabrics.
Aggregation of Direct Dyes Investigated by Molecular Modeling
Authors: Inglesby M.K. , Zeronian S.H. , Elder T.J.
Published: March 2008

Molecular modeling simulating aqueous conditions is used to elucidate the formation of aggregates of sulfonated chromophores, including Congo Red and Trypan Blue. The relative energies involved in the aggregation process are calculated and geometric features of the molecules and their aggregates are discussed. Parallel stacking facing one another occurs with slight shifts along the long axes of the chromophores to accommodate the sterically demanding sulfonate groups. The Connolly surfaces and volumes of the indi vidual molecules as well as their aggregates are determined.
Dyeing Cellulose Fibers with Reactive Disperse Dyes in Supercritical Carbon Dioxide
Authors: Maeda Shingo , Hongyou Setsuaki , Kunitou Katsushi , Mishima Kenji
Published: March 2008

Dyeing of cellulose fibers with reactive disperse dyes is attempted using supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO2) as a solvent at 393 K and 20 MPa. For pretreatment, cellulose fibers are treated with tetraethylene glycol dimethylether or N-methyl-2-pyrrolidinone. Results are compared with dyeing with other disperse dyes under the same conditions. The color yield of the fibers is assessed by K/S measurements before and after washing to investigate dyeing quality in this medium. Good color intensity and wash fastness are obtained.
Numerical Simulation of 3D Dynamic Garment Pressure
Authors: Zhang X. , Yeung K.W. , Li Y.
Published: March 2008

This paper presents a mechanical model for numerical simulations of 3D dynamic garment pressure during wear using a finite element method. Based on analyzing the contact characteristics between the human body and the garment, a mechanical model is developed based on the theory of dynamic contact mechanics. The garment is regarded as an elastic shell of geometric nonlinearity and the human body is assumed to be rigid. The contact between body and garment is modeled as a dynamic sliding interface. A series of examples is presented to illustrate the simulation results of the computational model using commercial finite element software: a female human model wearing a set of perfectly fitting sportswear. The garments have the same style but are made from different materials: a cotton denim fabric and a knitted nylon fabric. Compared with values of measured garment pressure reported in the literature, the predicted pressure is close to the magnitude of experimental measurements, indicating that the model is able to simulate garment pressure during wear with reasonable accuracy. The computational model can simulate and predict the dynamic mechanical behavior of garments during wear, such as garment deformation, pressure, and internal stresses, without actually producing the garment.
Textural Defect Segmentation Using a Fourier-Domain Maximum Likelihood Estimation Method
Authors: Chiu Shih-Hsuan , Shen Chou  , Liaw Jiun-Jian , Wen Che-Yen
Published: March 2008

When automatically inspecting textured surface defects, the most important step is to segment the defects from the background. For complicated textures, however, defect segmentation is still a challenging problem. In this paper, we use a Fourier-domain maximum likelihood estimator (FDMLE) based on the fractional Brownian motion (FBM) model to inspect surface defects of textile fabrics. From the experiments, we obtain good results for defect segmentation, and find the method's performance is invariant under geometric transformation.
A New Model of DC Conductivity of Hygroscopic Solids
Authors: Christie J.H. , Woodhead I.M.
Published: March 2008

We investigate the DC conductivity of cotton, viscose, and wood and develop a quantitative theory. We propose that conduction occurs by exchange of protons within a hydrogen-bonded network of water molecules, in a manner analogous to that in liquid water and ice. According to this model, the very strong dependence of conductivity on regain, which is characteristic of these materials, arises from its dependence on the average distance between adjacent water molecules. We derive expressions for DC conductivity as a function of regain, which provide very good agreement with experimental data. With independent experimental evidence, we confirm a prediction by the theory that a similar conduction process occurs in dry cellulose.
Moisture Accumulation in Sleeping Bags at Subzero Temperatures—Effect of Semipermeable and Impermeable Covers
Authors: Havenith George
Published: March 2008

Because subzero temperatures are expected to affect the vapor resistance of micro porous membranes, the effect of using semipermeable and impermeable rain covers for sleeping bags on moisture accumulation in the bags during 6 days of use at -7°C is investigated. Moisture accumulation is related to the vapor resistance of the materials. The best semipermeable material gives the same moisture build-up as no cover. Semiperme able cover materials are effective at reducing moisture accumulation in sleeping bags at moderate subzero temperatures.
Chelating Agents and Enzyme Retting of Flax
Authors: Adamsen Anders Peter S. , Akin Danny E. , Rigsby Luanne L.
Published: March 2008

Chelators added to pectinase-rich enzyme mixtures increase the efficiency of enzyme retting of flax. The multitude of available chelators requires research to optimize enzyme retting for cost and fiber quality, Of several chelators tested, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) is the most effective in sequestering calcium from solution, with substantial activity even at pH 4 or 5. Phosphate is also effective, but only at high pH. EDTA and Mayoquest 200, a commercial product with ∼37% EDTA, in combination with Viscozyme L or Lyvelin, commercial enzymes with polygalacturonase activities, yield high Fried test scores, indicating efficient separation of fibers from core tissues. Neither chelator nor enzyme at the levels tested alone effectively rets flax at a pH of around 5. In contrast, EDTA at 20 mmol/L levels and alkaline pH yields high Fried test scores. The addition of BioPrep, a commercial pectate lyase, does not influence retting measured by the Fried test with EDTA at alkaline pH, but the enzyme does improve retting with the weaker chelator sodium tripolyphosphate. The quality of fibers, as determined by the yield of fine fibers obtained by passing retted flax through the Shirley analyzer, is substantially greater with EDTA plus Viscozyme at pH 5 than alkaline chemical retting with EDTA, sodium tri polyphosphate, or sodium oxalate without enzyme. EDTA is the most effective chelator at acidic pH levels for stimulating flax retting by various commercial pectinase-rich enzyme mixtures. However, other less expensive candidates require additional study for more cost-effective formulations and applicable fiber properties.
A New Model of DC Conductivity of Hygroscopic Solids
Authors: Christie J.H. , Woodhead I.M. , Krenek S. , Seocole J.R.
Published: March 2008

A theory of electrical conduction in hygroscopic solids developed in Part I of this paper is applied here to wool and silk. Very good agreement is obtained with published experimental data. Application of the model leads to the prediction that sorbed water in wool and silk exists in two separate phases, and extensive evidence from the literature is cited in support of this prediction.
Mathematical Simulation of the Perception of Fabric Thermal and Moisture Sensations
Authors: Wang Z. , Li Y. , Kowk Y.L. , Yeung C.Y.
Published: March 2008

A mathematical simulation of the perception of thermal and moisture sensations is developed using mathematical models that describe the physical mechanisms of heat and moisture transfer in fabrics, the neurophysiological responses of thermoreceptors. and the psychoneurophysiological relationships identified from experiments. The sensations of coolness and dampness to the touch of knitted fabrics are predicted and compared with the subjective perceptions measured in a psychological experiment. The experimental results show that, in general, the relationships between the neurophysiological responses of thermoreceptors and the psychological perceptions follow Stevens' power function. The good agreement found between the measured and simulated perceptions shows that this mathematical simulation, based on heat and moisture transfer in fabrics, neurophysiolog ical mechanisms of the thermoreceptors, psychophysical relationships, is able to predict the perception of coolness and dampness sensation to the touch with reasonable accuracy.
Effect of Fiber Cross Section on Rotor Spinning of Polyester
Authors: Alston P.V. , Hansen S.M. , Duncan P.J.
Published: March 2008

The effect of polyester fibers with nonround cross sections on the rotor spinning of 100% polyester and 50% polyester/50% cotton yarns is determined. The polyester cross sections are hollow with a 5% void and trilobal, oval, ribbon, peanut, and scalloped oval shapes. The polyester fibers (oval, ribbon, peanut, scalloped oval shapes) with aspect ratios greater than one have fewer yarn breaks than the stiffer polyester fibers (round, hollow, trilobal shapes) with an aspect ratio of one. The peanut and scalloped oval fibers, which combine a multilobal character with an aspect ratio greater than one, have the fewest yarn breaks. The superior rotor spinning of these nonround fibers is believed to be the result of enhanced twist propagation due to lower torsional rigidity and lower fiber-to-surface contact.
Nonformaldehyde Durable Press Finishing of Cotton Fabric: Quantitative Evaluation of Cellulose-Bound Glyoxal
Authors: Schramm Christian , Rinderer Beate
Published: March 2008

Cellulosic material is treated with formulations containing 14.5% (w/w) glyoxal (40%) as a nonformaldehyde crosslinking agent in order to impart durable press properties. MgCl 2 · 6 H2O and Al2(SO4)3 · 16 H2O are applied as catalysts and different hydroxy carboxylic acids (citric, tartaric, and malic acids) as co-catalysts. The amount of cotton- bound glyoxal is measured by means of isocratic HPLC using HPX-87H as a stationary phase. Prior to chromatographic analysis, the cotton-bound glyoxal is converted to glycolate by means of an internal Cannizzaro reaction. The results indicate that MgCl2 · 6 H2O possesses lower effectiveness in comparison to Al2(SO4)3 · 16 H2O. A reduction of the cure temperature from 150 to 110°C does not influence the portion of glyoxal that has reacted with the cellulose when citric, tartaric, or malic acids are added to the formulations as co-catalysts.
A New Cellulose Based Carbon Fiber from a Lyocell Precursor
Authors: Qilin Wu  , Ding Pan
Published: March 2008

The structure and properties of lyocell and viscose rayon fibers are compared in this paper. SAXS results show that the rayon precursor has a higher ratio of larger microvoids, WAXD curves show that both fibers have a monoclinic crystalline structure, but lyocell fibers have higher crystallinity and a larger crystal size. The morphology of lyocell and rayon, observed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), is the same with an average diameter of 10.6 μm, but different distributions. A Gaussian statistical analysis indicates that the single-strand strength of lyocell fibers is twice as high as for rayon precursors, which have a wider strength distribution. Similar TGA curves show the same pyrolysis mechanism, and based on this, lyocell fibers are proposed as high performance carbon fiber precursors. Lyocell fibers are successfully carbonized under conditions identical to those for manufacturing rayon-based carbon fibers. The two kinds of carbon fibers are compared by SEM and a Weibull statistical analysis.
Evaluating Wrinkled Fabrics with Image Analysis and Neural Networks
Authors: Mori Toshio , Komiyama Jiro
Published: March 2008

Gray scale image analysis is used to evaluate visual features of wrinkles in plain fabrics made from cotton, linen, rayon, wool. silk, and polyester. The angular second moment, contrast, correlation, and entropy extracted from the gray level co-occurrence matrix are measured as visual feature parameters. The fractal dimension is determined from fractal analysis of the relief of the curved surface of the gray level image. These image information parameters are useful for visual evaluations of wrinkled fabrics. In this study, a visual evaluation system using neural networks is discussed. A high performance neuron training algorithm with a Kalman filter is introduced to tune the network in order to maximize the accuracy of the visual evaluation system. The trained neural network model is successfully implemented to show the feasibility of neural network applications for objective visual evaluation of wrinkled fabrics.
The Influence of Treatment Conditions on the Quantity and Composition of Oligomers Extracted from Polyester Fabric
Authors: Receu Petra , Gorenšek Marija , Žigon Majda
Published: March 2008

We investigate the influence of treatment conditions of polyester (PES) fabric on the quantity of extracted oligomers and their composition. Oligomers are extracted by petroleum ether and dichloromethane. The quantities of oligomers from the treated and untreated fabrics are determined gravimetrically, whereas the composition of the oligo meric extract is determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC). The quantity of extracted oligomers decreases with alkaline pretreatment prior to acid dyeing or with an alkaline dyeing process. GPC chromatograms show that all oligomeric extracts consist mainly of cyclic trimers. The treatment conditions of PES fabric have only a slight influence on the breaking stress and elongation of the fabric. Alkaline pretreatment before acid and alkaline dyeings of PES fabric greatly decreases overall flexural rigidity compared with acid dyed fabric.
Modeling a Fabric Drape Profile
Authors: Lo W.M. , Hu J.L. , Li L.K.
Published: March 2008

This paper presents a model for predicting fabric drape profiles using polar coordinates. The drape coefficient (DC%), node locations, node numbers, and node shape in the fabric drape profile can be predicted accurately with this model. Polar coordinate fitting is used to determine the constants in the drape profile model, and good agreement is obtained between the theoretical and experimental drape profiles of thirty-five woven fabrics. In addition, constants in the drape profile model may also be obtained by bending and shear hysteresis using regression analysis. Good agreements are found between the calculated DC% and the experimental DC% for the fabrics examined in this study. This means a drape profile may be directly predicted from bending and shear hysteresis. Moreover, better prediction of the fabric drape profile may be obtained from the mean value taken in the warp, weft, and ±45° directions than that in the warp and weft directions.
Relaxation Shrinkage Characteristics of Steam-Ironed Plain Knitted Wool Fabrics
Authors: Chen Q.H. , Au K.F. , Yuen C.W.M. , Yeung K.W.
Published: March 2008

This study e valuates the dimensional changes of steam-ironed plain knitted wool fabrics after conditioning in air and then washing with an IWS 7A wash cycle. During steam ironing, different extensions are given to the fabrics by using larger sized ironing boards. Part of the expansion of the fabrics is recovered during conditioning in air and residual expansion depends mainly on the extensions given to the fabrics during steam ironing. After undergoing the IWS 7A wash cycle, the dimensional changes of the steam-ironed fabrics are identified as depending on yarn linear density, fabric tightness, anti-felting treatment of wool yarn, and the degree of extension imparted to the fabrics during steam ironing. Further analysis also shows that whether or not the fabrics are treated with steam ironing and regardless of the extensions imparted during steam ironing, all fabrics with the same yam and knitting parameters approach similar dimensions and shapes after IWS 7A washing.
Applying a Co-occurrence Matrix to Automatic Inspection of Weaving Density for Woven Fabrics
Authors: Lin Jeng-Jong
Published: March 2008

This paper evaluates the efficiency and accuracy of a way to detect a fabric's weaving density using a co-occurrence-based method. Three basic fabric weave structures—plain, twill, and satin—are evaluated by this method. Based on the co-occurrence matrix algorithm, the weaving density of a plain weave structure can be computed exactly. The method used to process image feature extraction, the co-occurrence-based method, is one in which a feature parameter (the contrast parameter or CON) is obtained. It consists of contrast measurements involving sixty-four spatial displacements ( i.e., 1-64) and two directions (0 and 90 degrees) of fabric images used for calculation. The results show that the calculation precision for the plain weave is far better than that for the twill and satin weaves.
Modifying Nylon and Polypropylene Fabrics with Atmospheric Pressure Plasmas
Authors: McCord M.G. , Hwang Y.J. , Hauser P.J. , Qiu Y. , Cuomo J.J. , Hankins O.E. , Bourham M.A. , Canup L.K.
Published: March 2008

Polypropylene and nylon 66 fabrics are subjected to atmospheric pressure He and He-O2 plasmas for selected exposure time intervals. Scanning electron microscopy anal ysis of the fabrics shows no apparent changes in the plasma-treated nylon fiber surfaces, but significant surface morphological changes for the polypropylene. Surface analyses of the nylon filaments reveal small differences in the surface carbon and oxygen contents between the treated and control groups. The surface oxygen and nitrogen content of the polypropylene fabric increases significantly after treatment in both He and He-O2 plasmas. There is a slight decrease in nylon fabric tensile strength after treatment in He plasma for 3 minutes, while. there is no significant change in tensile strength of the nylon fabric treated with He-O2 after exposure times of up to 8 minutes.
Stain Test for the Fiber Blending Ratio of a Polyester/Cellulose Nonwoven
Authors: Lai Sang-Song
Published: March 2008

Along with the trend toward automation in the textile industry, an objective, correct. and efficient fiber identification method has become an important component of rapid respondent systems the textile industry desires. Using a polyester/cellulose nonwoven fabric, currently the highest in demand in the market, as the material and applying a combined stain test and regression method, an identification model for nonwoven blending ratios is established in this study. The results clearly indicate that with regression, CIE L*a*b*c*h can be used to establish the required identification model for polyester/ cellulose nonwoven blending ratios. The correlation coefficient between the predicted regression value and the actual blending ratio is more than 0.99, indicating that the model's fitting ability is extremely high.
Cotton Color Classification by Fuzzy Logic
Authors: Xu B. , Dale D.S. , Huang Y. , Watson M.D.
Published: March 2008

This paper describes the application of fuzzy logic to cotton color grading in an attempt to improve the acceptance of machine grading for cotton colors. Cotton color grades are a number of classes in the (Rd, b) color space. Adjacent color classes have blurry and overlapping boundaries, making crisp-boundary methods ineffective for cotton color classification. Fuzzy logic is specialized to deal with uncertainty and imprecision in the decision-making process, and thus offers a new approach for grading cotton colors. In this paper, we present the procedures for constructing a fuzzy inference system (FIS) using fuzzy logic to classify major classes of cotton colors, and the preliminary results to demonstrate FIS effectiveness in reducing machine-classer disagreements in color grading. The results from the Fis show great consistency for multiple year of cotton color data.
Influence on Flax Fibers of Components in Enzyme Retting Formulations
Authors: Akin Danny E. , Foulk Jonn A. , Dodd Roy B.
Published: March 2008

A series of formulations with varying enzyme and chelator components is tested for flax fiber yield and properties using a recently developed enzyme retting system on Ariane flax grown as a winter crop in southeastern South Carolina. The levels of Viscozyme L, a commercial pectinase-rich enzyme mixture, and Mayoquest 200, a commercial chelator containing 38% ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) as tetrasodium salt, are varied. Enzyme retted flax straw is hand-carded and passed one time through a Shirley Analyzer for cleaning. The chelator level determines the fine fiber (i.e., Shirley cleaned) yield. Fiber strength measured by Stelometer is inversely proportional to enzyme level and not affected by chelator level. Fiber fineness measured by air flow methods is better with higher enzyme levels, and within enzyme levels the higher chelator levels tend to produce fibers with the highest degree of fineness. Relative cost calculations, taking into account fiber yield with costs of enzyme and chelators, provide a framework for determining retting efficiency and fiber quality. Results indicate that fiber properties can be tailored by enzyme or chelator levels. Further, commercial enzyme mixtures and chelators effectively ret flax and can serve as a basis for large scale retting tests.
Effect of NaOH Mercerization on the Crosslinking of Ramie Yarn Using 1,2,3,4-Butanetetracarboxylic Acid
Authors: Zhou L.M. , Yeung K.W.P. , Yuen C.W.M.
Published: March 2008

The effect of NaOH mercerization on the crosslinking properties of 1,2,3,4-butanetet racarboxylic acid (BTCA) on ramie yarn is studied, with emphasis on mercerization tension. NaOH at mercerization strength decrystallizes the ramie fibers, resulting in a higher accessibility to BTCA. Due to the change in fiber orientation caused by mercerization, tension mercerized and crosslinked ramie yarn shows a higher tenacity than the crosslinked control, while the low-tension or slack mercerized and crosslinked ramie yarn exhibits more serious tensile strength loss than the crosslinked control.
Modifying Dew-Retted Flax Fibers by Means of an Air-Atomized Enzyme Treatment
Authors: Evans Jeff D. , Akin Danny E. , Morrison Wiley H. , Himmelsbach David S. , Foulk Jonn A.
Published: March 2008

The use of atomization or an aerosol formation is investigated as a vehicle for enzyme treatment of dew-retted flax fibers. A cellulase/endoglucanase from Trichoderma reesei is applied by atomization to dew-retted fibers at concentrations of 0. 50, and 100 U. Enzyme activity post-atomization is verified by GLC analyses of sugars hydrolyzed from the treated fibers. Cellulase treatment results in the release of glucose and galactose moieties in a dose response manner. Fiber strength determination also demonstrates a dose response effect in relation to treatment with 50 and 100 U of enzyme, yielding strength decreases of 17 and 56%, respectively. Visualization of treated flax fibers by polarized light microscopy reveal the presence of structural aberrations previously identified as nodes, and treatment with the atomized enzyme coincides with fiber disruption at these regions. Mid-IR attenuated total reflectance spectra of fiber mats show a reduction in bound water and loss of acetylated components at the fiber surface resulting from enzyme treatment. Collectively. these results demonstrate the effectiveness of atomization as a means of applying enzymes for fiber modification, and the results also have implications for the flax fiber structure.
Improved Chemical Retting of Kenaf Fibers
Authors: Parikh D.V. , Calamari T.A. , Sawhney A.P.S. , Blanchard E.J. , Screen F.J. , Warnock M. , Muller D.H. , Stryjewski D.D.
Published: March 2008

Moldable nonwoven fabrics for automotive applications make up a large market, but they are currently made from synthetic fibers that are not easily biodegraded. Incorpo rating kenaf fibers into automotive nonwovens may enhance their biodegradability, while imparting improved acoustical insulation and reducing vehicle weight (kenaf fiber density is 1.4 versus 2.55 for glass). Traditional biological (water) retting of kenaf is tedious, time consuming, costly, and environmentally sensitive. As a consequence, it does not provide necessary incentives for a new, potentially large kenaf market. Continuing research efforts at the Southern Regional Research Center (SRRC) nave resulted in simplified chemical retting procedures for two mechanically harvested, distinctly different varieties of kenaf, the forage harvested Tainung-2 (T-2, 3.75-7.5 cm short fibers) and the naturally retted cultivar Everglades-41 (E-41, 100-125 cm long ribbons). In this paper, an improved caustic formulation for effective retting and a special soap finish for improved carding of kenaf fibers are suggested. Development of some nonwoven fabrics containing SRRC refined kenaf fibers for automative applications are discussed in a subsequent paper. Successful use of kenaf in automotive nonwovens is expected to lead to a considerable expansion in kenaf cultivation.
Fabric Pilling Performance and Sensitivity of Several Pilling Testers
Authors: Göktepe Özer
Published: March 2008

The pilling behavior of polyester/viscose, polyester/viscose/Lycra®, and %100 cotton fabrics, is investigated in both normal and wet conditions. The experimental results show that the pilling tendency of fabrics in the wet state is directly related to the constituent fiber tenacity in the wet state. We also test three different pilling testers, the Martindale wear & pilling, the ICI pilling box, and the pilling drum, using both gray and finished fabric samples to investigate the sensitivity of different testers to various fabric parameters. In the gray state, the pilling box is sensitive to changes in the fiber blend ratio, weave type, and fabric stretch direction (mono or bi-stretch). The pilling drum exhibits a similar tendency, except that it is not sensitive to weave type. However, Martindale test results indicate that this apparatus is sensitive only to the yarn count and stretch direction of fabrics with spandex filaments. In the finished state, the picture changes dramatically, because the pilling box is sensitive to the yarn count, yarn twist, and stretch direction of fabrics with Lycra. The pilling drum again exhibits a similar tendency, except for weave type. The martindale, on the other hand, is sensitive to the yarn count, yam twist, and stretch direction of fabrics with Lycra. Generally, the Martindale gives worse pilling grades than the pilling box and pilling drum. Since the test results show that each tester has a different sensitivity for different factors, we recommend using at least two different testers to obtain reliable results, one of these being the Martindale while the other might be either the pilling box or drum.
Breakage Characteristics of C. I. Disperse Red 60 Under an Ultrasound Field
Authors: Keun Wan Lee  , Yong Sik Chung  , Jae Pil Kim
Published: March 2008

The characteristics of ultrasonic breakage are investigated quantitatively by measuring the particle size of a dye dispersion subjected to ultrasound radiation. The breakage of dye particles strongly depends on the liquid medium temperature, the ultrasound intensity, and the dye dispersion volume. The degree of breakage is also determined by the total sonic energy per unit volume radiated to the dye dispersion, regardless of factors such as ultrasound radiation intensity, dye dispersion volume, and ultrasound radiation time. There exists a temperature at which the breakage rate reaches a maximum.