bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
A Human Perception Analysis Approach to Clothing Comfort
Authors: Hollies Norman R.S. , Custer Anna G. , Morin Catherine J. , Howard Marilyn E.
Published: March 2008

Clothing-comfort assessment by human perception analysis provides a sound basis for comparison of apparel garments under combined microclimates and human-activity levels of normal wear. The perception-analysis process attempts to seek out the wearing conditions that produce differences in human sensation and the descriptors used by indixiduals to describe these sensations.

Details of the human perception approach to comfort are illustrated by applications to a shirt and a jeans study in volving men and women. The comfort preference for cotton garments in these studies is documented using statistical analysis of the data appropriate to the perception process.
Absorption of Sodium and Chloride Ions by Degraded Wool
Authors: Peters R.H. , Rippon J.A.
Published: March 2008

The Donnan distribution of sodium and chloride ions has been measured between wool and aqueous solutions, in the pH range 3 to 10, following treatment with either sulphuric or peracetic acids. Changes in the sorption isotherms at 25°C were found to depend upon the concentrations of the acids used, and they have been interpreted in terms of the formation of ionizable groups within the wool fiber.
Fiber-Type Elasticity
Authors: Stuart I.M.
Published: March 2008

This is an elementary introduction to the type of classical elasticity most likely to be exhibited by fibers. It relates to properties that are independent of direction in certain transverse planes, but which may be quite different in the axial direction that is normal to these planes.

A number of aspects of such elasticity are considered. Although textile fibers do not generally meet requirements that enable their mechanical behavior to be described by the classical elasticity model, there are valuable applications of this theory in textile physics.
Shrinkproofing Wool with Ozone-Enriched Water
Authors: Thorsen W.J.
Published: March 2008

Wool fabric shrinkage can be controlled by pumping ozone-enriched water through top or fabric. Treating in water agitated and saturated with ozone by sparging, although inherently simpler, is less effective because circulation is weaker and less uniform. Temperatures from 18° to 32°C are satisfactory. Ozone utilization is about 2% (w/w [percentage of ozone based on conditioned (21°C, 65% RH) weight of top or fabric]) for top, and 3 to 4% for fabrics.
Natural Hard Fibers of the North American Continent. Statistical Correlations of Physical and Mechanical Properties of Lechuguilla (Agave lechuguilla) Fibers
Authors: Belmares Hector , Castillo J. Ernesto , Barrera Arnoldo
Published: March 2008

The present trend in the USA and elsewhere is to find industlial applications for renewable raw materials. In our research program to use natural hard fibers in the woven fabric of composite materials, we have initiated a characteriza tion study of lechuguilla fibers obtained from the plant Agave lechuguilla, which grows in a wild form in the arid and semiarid lands of the North American continent, particularly in the Chihuahuan desert. These fibers were characterized in their physical properties such as porosity, density, diameter, and length distribution and in their mechanical properties such as tenacity, percent elongation, and initial modulus. This characterization was carried out statistically for the bases and the tips of the fibers, although in some cases the intermediate segment was also included. The results obtained indicate that the fiber tips are of greater tenacity, initial modulus, and density than the fiber bases. Additionally, the physical and the mechanical data show that lechuguilla fibers are comparable to glass fibers and therefore are potentially an acceptable candidate for applications in composite materials.
Structure-Property Relationships in Polytetramethylene Terephthalate/Polytetramethylene Isophthalate Copolyesters Part I : Glass-Transition Temperatures
Authors: Moore R.A.F. , Peters R.H.
Published: March 2008

The glass-transition temperatures (Tg) of a series of polytetramethylene terephthalate/polytetramethylene isophthalate, copolyesters have been measured by a variety of methods including differential thermal analysis, dilatometry, and broad- line nuclear magnetic resonance. The values measured for Tg are discussed in relation to differences in copolymer com position, sample crystallinity and the method used in the measurement of Tg. An increase in the isophthalate content of the copolyester has been found to decrease T g, whereas annealing and increasing the test frequency have both been shown to raise Tg. Values calculated for the apparent activation energy of the glass-transition (Δ ETg) for the series of copoly esters are also reported. In addition, the influence of water on the Tg of polyesters has been investigated.
PET Filaments with Radially-Differentiated Structure
Authors: Gerold E.A. , Rebenfeld L. , Scott M.G. , Weigmann H.-D.
Published: March 2008

An undrawn polyester monofilament was subjected to sequential solvent and thermal/stress crystallization during drawing to produce a radially-differentiated structure. Solvent-induced crystallization of outer regions of the filament was achieved using methylene chloride or dimethylformamide at room temperature. The thermal/stress crystallization of the filament core was conducted at a draw ratio of 4.0 at temperatures ranging from 90 to 120°C. The resulting filaments were characterized by measurements of density and mechanical properties, by wide-angle x-ray diffractometry, and by scanning electron microscopy. The structure of the outer regions of these novel filaments consists of highly- deformed spherulites, while the inner core is fibrillar in character with well-developed orientation and crystallinity. The extreme outer surface appears to be cavitated, leading to extremely high surface areas. It is proposed that such radially- differentiated filaments will have the combined desirable properties of spherulitic and fibrillar morphologies, such as high liquid-retention values, improved adhesion, and high strength.
Statistical Techniques in the Analysis of Jacquard Weft-Knitted Structures
Authors: Fahmy A.H. , Newton A.
Published: March 2008

A series of two-color double-jersey jacquard fabrics were made under different conditions: namely, with two levels of yarn input tension, two levels of take-down tension, two levels of dial height, and five levels of stitch-cam setting. Measure ments of the dimensions of one design repeat, and the length of yarn in the design repeat indicates that jacquard weft-knit fabrics are geometrically determined, with the run-in of yarn having a controlling influence on the fabric dimensions.
The Electrochemical Process in the Molding of Nonwoven Structures
Authors: Miura Yoshito , Hosokawa Juzo
Published: March 2008

The electroforming process was used in the fabrication of different grades of nonwoven materials from a variety of fibers and binders using electrodes of different materials. Various kinds of three-dimensional and molded nonwoven fabrics can be produced by changing the shape of electrodes. For example, a conical nonwoven fabric can be produced by using conically-shaped eledtrodes. A hollow cylindrical nonwoven body can also be produced by using a revolving anode and a stationary cathode. The above cylindrical nonwoven body can be produced with the bottom closed to form a cup shape. Products with nonwoven fabrics laminated on a metal surface can be made by not removing the anode after the deposition of fiber flock onto the anode.
An Analysis of Sensory Hands as Identified by Selected Consumers
Authors: Paek Soae L.
Published: March 2008

The fabric hand perceived by evaluators was investigated on the basis of basic hand properties and sensory hand categories. The ten test fabrics, chosen to represent sensory hand categories, and two nonwovens were evaluated for their subjective attributes and eleven physical hand properties. The analysis of data revealed that subjective thickness and warmth were significantly correlated with objective thickness, hardness, tenacity, and coefficient of friction, while other subjective hand attributes, namely stiffness and roughness, were correlated with flexural rigidity and coefficient of friction, respectively. The similarity of sensory hand categories was evaluated by subjective hand profile and cluster analyses. The new insight gained from these analyses can be used to improve the aesthetic properties of new textile products.
Structure-Property Relationships in Polytetramethylene Terephthalate/ Polytetramethylene Isophthalate Copolyesters Part II : Relationships Between Dyeability and the Glass-Transition Temperature
Authors: Moore R.A.F. , Peters R.H.
Published: March 2008

The dyeing properties of a series of poly tramethylene terephthalate/polytetramethylene isophthalate copolyester films with C.I. Disperse Orange 3 have b investigated. Incorporating isophthalate units into polytetramethylene terephthalate leads to an increase in both the rate of dye diffusion and the amount of dye sorbed at equilibrium. The rate of dye diffusion in the series of copolyesters is found to depend on (T — Tg) for Tg measured by several methods. Linear relationships between log D and (T — Tg) allow empirical equations relating the rate of dye diffusion in the series of copolyesters to (T — Tg) to be derived. An application of these equations in studies of dye diffusion in polymers is envisaged. The relationships obtained between log D and (T — Tg) for the diffusion of C.I. Disperse Orange 3 in the series of copolyesters are compared with those found by workers in other dye-fiber systems. In addition, the effects of varying annealing temperature and dyeing temperature on the dyeing properties of the series of copolyesters have been studied.
A Statistical Examination of Influences Affecting Lightfastness of Dyed Fibers—The Effect of Fiber Polarity
Authors: Giles Charles H. , Strevens Elizabeth A.
Published: March 2008

Comparisons of the lightfastness (LF) of ranges of dyes, each respectively between a pair of fibers, are described. The data give scattered points when plotted as LF on one fiber vs. LF on another fiber, hut regression lines show significant differences between the slopes of the plots. The differences are interpreted as evidence of the effect of the polarity of the fiber polymer, which, it is suggested, infiuences the charge on the auxochrome groups of the dye molecule. The higher the polarity of the fiber, the more is this charge reduced, the result being to reduce the difference in LF between all the dyes applied to the fiber.

The effect is observed with all types of fiber examined: cellulosic, protein, and synthetic-polymer. It may have technical value, by indicating that to achieve more uniform LF of all dyes on a given fiber, the dipole moment of the monomer forming the fiher polymer should be increased.
Studies on Some Wool Components : Skin Flakes, Cuticle, and Cell Membrane Material
Authors: Kulkarni V.G. , Baumann H.
Published: March 2008

When wool is vigorously shaken in formic acid, initially, the skin flakes and; later on, cuticle cells are liberated with a dissolution of some wool protein. The rate of release of skin flakes and dissolution of protein is increased with increasing periods of shaking wool in formic acid. The cuticle is isolated by ultrasonication of wool in formic acid. Amino acid compositions of wool and its components are determined and discussed in terms of helix and nonhelix indices, a degree of polarity, and cystine content. Skin flakes contain only cysteic acid but no cystine, double the amount of aspartic acid, half the ambunt of proline and tyrosine, and more glycine than the respective amino acids present in cuticle. Electron microscope studies revealed that the skin flakes and cuticle differ from each other in their structural features.
The Use of Textile Yarns in Separation Processes
Authors: Miller Bernard , Friedman Henry L. , Meiser Charles H.
Published: March 2008

A new method has been developed for preparing chromatography columns quickly, uniformly, and with high reproduci bility, using textile yarns as the solid adsorbent. Gas-chromatography experiments using columns packed in this way have revealed that rayon yarns have a high affinity for water vapor but allow other species, even those quite similar to water in size and chemistry, to pass through essentially unretarded. The degree of water retardation by rayon yam- filled columns has been found to depend on a number of controllable factors: charge volume and frequency of injection, column pressure and temperature, and yarn packing density. To demonstrate the usefulness of the rayon-water specificity for removing water from mixtures, two novel devices have been built that are capable of producing dry ethanol from aqueous mixtures on a laboratory scale at modest energy cost. One of these designs, taking advantage of the high tensile strength of yarn, makes use of a moving yarn loop to achieve almost continuous separation and a high yield of ethanol. Even if such processes do not turn out to be economically practicable for large-scale ethanol production, the concept of gas or liquid chromatography using bundles of yarns with suitable chemical properties should find application in many practical separation problems.
Vapor-Phase Dyeing Studies in PET and Their Bearing on the Effects of Water, and Carriers on Dye Diffusion
Authors: Pace R.J. , Datyner A.
Published: March 2008

Diffusion results are reported for seven penetrants in poly(ethylene terephthalate), over the range 98 to 180°C, with penetrant application from the vapor phase. The penetrants are low molecular weight disperse dyes and smaller related compounds. These results, and earlier solution phase data, are analyzed in terms of a recently developed theory of diffusion in polymers, in an attempt to clarify the roles of aromatic carriers and water in promoting dye diffusion in PET.
Evaluation of Cleaning and Washing Processes for Cotton Fiber
Authors: Sasser Preston E.
Published: March 2008

Strict good ordinary grade cotton was mechanically cleaned and washed using treatments that ranged from water at 333 K (60°C) to a complete scour and bleach at 344 K (71°C). The micronaire of the cotton increased slightly when washed. The length of the fiber decreased slightly when higher washing temperatures were used, but the decrease was not statistically significant. The length-uni formity ratio was lowered about 1 unit by washing in hot water, and about 2 units by scouring. Wash ing increases the fiber bundle strength about 20 kN·m/kg (2 gf/tex). Washing in water at 333 K does not change the reflectance, but scouring causes a slight increase, and bleaching causes a large increase. The yellowness readings are significantly decreased by washing in water and decreased even further by scouring.
Evaluation of Cleaning and Washing Processes for Cotton Fiber
Authors: Winch Allen R.
Published: March 2008

A brief survey of wet-processing equipment of potential interest for washing cotton staple prior to spinning is provided, emphasizing continuous processes for staple-and highlighting a) wool-scouring equipment, b) rayon-washing equipment, and c) various adaptations of the full scour-and-bleach process developed by Cotton Incorporated for cotton staple in continuous batt formation. A series of seven different washing treatments ranging from simple warm- and hot-water washes to a full scour and bleach were applied to cotton in continuous batt formation for subsequent evaluation by other authors of this series of papers. They characterize these washed cottons with respect to dust levels, carding and spinning properties, and the chemical nature and biological activities of the dust remaining on the cotton fiber subsequent to washing. Technical and economic feasibility perspectives are also discussed.

The remarkable reduction in biological activity of residual cotton dust remaining on the cotton fiber subsequent to washing, as reported by Battigelli [1] and Fisher [6], indicates that reasonable washing disciplines inherent in continuous-washing systems should be highly effective in qualifying cotton for exemption from the dust standard.
Evaluation of Cleaning and Washing Processes for Cotton Fiber
Authors: Chewning Charles H.
Published: March 2008

Mechanically-cleaned and/or washed cotton card sliver was processed into both ring- and open- end-spun yarn. Three yarn counts, two open-end and one ring, were spun. Ends-down were found to be low for a coarse count open-end yarn and high for a medium count. The ring-spun yarn ex hibited mixed ends-down results. Rotor residue was shown to significantly decrease, and yarn strength increased slightly with washing. Yarn evenness and elongation decreased somewhat with washing. For best spinning, a fiber lubricant must be used to assure satisfactory drafting.
Closed-Boll Cotton
Authors: Rousselle Marie-Alice , Nelson Mary L. , Barker Gary L. , Colwick Rex F.
Published: March 2008

Never-dried and dried cotton fibers from closed bolls harvested at various stages of growth were treated with propylene oxide. Both sets of treated fibers, which were tested after drying and rewetting with water, had moisture-sorption and tensile properties close to those of never-dried cotton. Com parison of treated fibers to untreated dried fibers showed that water-retention values were doubled by the treatment, regains at 87% RH were increased by a third, and fiber-bundle and single-fiber elonga tions were more than doubled. Bundle tenacity and single-fiber breaking load were also increased
Cotton-Wrapped Yarns—A Process to Eliminate Sizing and Desizing1
Authors: Graham C.O. , Shepard C.L. , Kullman R.M.H.
Published: March 2008

Wrapping cotton yarn with a filament yarn may preclude the necessity for sizing prior to weaving and eliminate desizing and associated size-recovery systems. A study was made to define the proper ties of cotton/nylon and cotton/polyester spin-wrapped yarn of various filament sizes, weaving effi ciencies, and fabric applications. Core-wrapping is described, and the properties of the yarn produced are shown. Weaving efficiency results in terms of warp stops and lint shedding are presented.
Wool Processing on the Cotton System: A Comparison Between Cut-Top Wool and Six-Month Shorn Wool in a Blend With Polyester1
Authors: Lupton Christopher J.
Published: March 2008

Fiber blends composed of cut-top wool/polyester and short-shorn wool/polyester in the ratio of 60:40 were processed on the short-staple system of spinning into 49.2 mg/m (12/1 No) and 98.4 mg/m (6/1 No) yarns. Subsequently, apparel and home-furnishing fabrics were woven and their physical properties were measured. Generally, fabrics containing cut-top wool exhibited higher grab strengths than their short-shorn wool counterparts. Conversely, resistance to flex abrasion tended to be better in the case of the fabrics composed of short-shorn wool/polyester. Other fabric properties including tear strength, shrinkage due to home launderings, and appearance after home launderings were very similar.
Ultraviolet Radiation in Treatments for Imparting Functional Properties to Cotton Textiles 1
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Harris James A.
Published: March 2008

The desirability of developing new methods for the chemical processing of textile materials has encouraged studies of ultraviolet radiation in textile finishing. Wrinkle-resastant cotton and flame- resistant cotton were prepared by processes that include photo-initiated, free-radical reactions resulting from ultraviolet radiation of cotton in the presence of reactive monomers. The influences of variables in the treatments were determined and optimum conditions identified. Other important findings on the chemistry and technology of ultraviolet radiation were observed.
Improved Ammonia Finishing of Corduroys1
Authors: Troope Walter S.
Published: March 2008

Commercial use of the liquid ammonia process has expanded from its initial application as a pure finish technique on denims and bottomweight fabrics. In recent developments it is being used in con junction with crosslinking resin treatments, resulting in a rebirth of 100% cotton shirtings. It now promises a similar result for 100% cotton sheetings, which will soon be introduced to the market. Utilization of the process in specific areas has often required extensive product development in order to achieve the proper balance of physical and aesthetic properties required by today's consumer. One of the areas that has remained illusive has been in the application of ammonia finishing to corduroys. Previous attempts have resulted in significant improvements in performance after laundering, but the appearance of the fabric at the point of sale was not totally satisfactory. The major difficulty has been associated with excessive shrinkage and disorientation of the pile structure during ammonia treatment.

New developments in ammonia finishing of corduroys have now been achieved by stabilizing the pile structure through a controlled resin treatment prior to ammonia treatment. This has proven to be effective in limiting excessive shrinkage and distortion of the pile as well as minimizing the flattening of the pile during ammonia removal. These results have been achieved in addition to re taining most of the benefits normally associated with liquid ammonia treatment.
Formaldehyde Release—Are Current Test Methods Reahstic?1
Authors: Kottes Andrews B.A. , Harper R.J.
Published: March 2008

The way that durable-press finishes from various formaldehyde-containing agents behave in current tests for "free formaldehyde" was studied to assess the relevance of the tests. The tests included both the release, or vapor-phase type (AATCC 112-1975 test) and the immersion, or extraction type (Japanese Law 112-1973 test). The agents were the methylolated cyclic ureas, glyoxal-ureas, and carbamates. The influence of ring size and substituents and the influence of protective substituents on the hydroxyls were observed. Response of these agents to variations in test conditions was also noted. Evidence for cleavage of both the amidomethyl cellulose ether bond and the N-C bond within the agent itself during both the release and the extraction tests is presented for after-washed, odor-free fabrics finished for durable-press.
Engineered Wool Industrial Protective Clothing'
Authors: Mehta P.N.
Published: March 2008

Environmental hazards in manufacturing industries are detailed, and guidelines are presented to enable fabric and garment assemblies to be engineered in such a way as to optimize the protection offered against heat, flame, molten metal, generation of static, electromagnetic radiation, and chemical hazards. Appropriate wool and wool-blend fabrics are critically examined from the point of view of the protection offered, and wherever possible they are compared with fabrics made from other fibers.
Assessment of Ventilation Characteristics of Standard and Prototype Firefighter Protective Clothing1
Authors: Reischl Uwe , Stransky Alfred
Published: March 2008

Specialized clothing is an integral part of a firefighter's protective system. However, existing fire fighter clothing, which attempts to protect against environmental hazards, also restricts dissipation of metabolic heat. This restriction can lead to severe heat stress and may result in subsequent hazards to the health and safety of the firefighter. A new prototype design has been developed that exhibits some improved heat-dissipation characteristics under controlled laboratory settings. Two versions of the prototype design were tested for ventilation and compared with the ventilation of standard turnout gear. Laboratory information was obtained using one male and one female test subject participating in a series of treadmill exercise tests. Biophysical data collected show that the proto type design provides improvements in clothing ventilation over the standard turnout gear presently in use. Analysis of results suggests that reduction in firefighter heat stress can be achieved, and con tinued development of the prototype design is recommended.
Furniture Flammability: Fabric Opportunities1
Authors: Baitinger William F. , Haynes Patricia L.
Published: March 2008

The requirements and interrelationships of federal, state, and industry regulations addressing the issue of smoldering combustion in upholstered furniture are reviewed. An analysis of composite behavior is made with respect to component tests employed. A significant number of cotton and cotton-containing fabrics are examined and classified for cigarette-ignition capacity by a test proposed by the Upholstered Furniture Action Council. The distinction between Class I and Class II behavior is related primarily to fabric weight. Technology available to alter smoldering capacity by chemical treatment is reviewed in a few specific cases.
Studies on Acrylonitrile-Hydrozyalkyl-Methacrylate Copolymer Fibers
Authors: Bajaj P. , Sengupta A.K. , Jain P.C.
Published: March 2008

The effect cf wet spinning conditions on the properties of acrylonitrile-2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate (AN-HEMA) and acrylonitrile-2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate (AN-HPMA) copolymer fibers were studied. Copolymers containing 1 to 4.8 mole% hydroxyalkylmethacrylate comonomer were synthesized by slurry polymerization using redox initiator. The spinning dope used was a 15% solution of polymer in dimethylformamide. The spinning conditions studied were: extrusion pressure, coagulating bath temperature, take-up velocity, and draw ratio. Low coagulating bath temperature and high draw ratio gave fiber with better strength properties. Sonic modulus and x-ray diffraction were used for study ing the molecular orientation and crystalline organization. The influence of hydrophilic comonomers in polyacrylonitrile on moisture sorption, dyeability, and tensile properties was considered.
Studies on Fiber Belts in Rotor-Spun Yarns
Authors: Sengupta A.K. , Dutta B. , Radhakrishnaiah P.
Published: March 2008

The formation of belts and their influence on tenacity of rotor-spun yarns have been studied. When two fibers of different lengths are blended together, the longer fiber predominates as belts, with the result that the composition of constituents in the form of belts is changed considerably. An increase in twist density increases the number of belts but has no influence on the composition of constituents in the belts. Neither differences in denier nor in fiber type has any marked influence on the composition of belts in blended yarns.

Contrary to the generally-held view, it has been observed that belts can help in enhancing the strength of rotor-spun yarns. When a small percentage of long viscose fiber is blended with a short staple cotton, the blended yarn strength improves due to the reinforcement of the yarn matrix through belts. The influence of belts is most pronounced when the twist factor used is low.
Horizontal Burning Rates of Fabrics with Low Add-Ons of Fire Retardant
Authors: Reeves Wilson A. , Hammons Margerite A.
Published: March 2008

Plain-weave, scoured, and bleached cotton (103 g/m2) and polyester/cotton (92 g/m2) fabrics were treated with two durable, fire-retardant, durable-press finishes. The retardants were based on Fyrol 76® (contained phosphorus) and Caliban® F/R P®-44 (contained bromine). Oxygen index (OI) and horizontal burning rates at atmospheric oxygen concentration were studied with emphasis on fabrics with low add-ons of the retardants.

OI values increased as add-ons increased; however, the OI values were increased about twice as much by 2% add-on at low levels of add-on as with 2% at high levels of add-on. Rate of burning of both type fabrics was greatly affected by very low add-ons of the retardant. The burning rate of cotton with about 1 to 3% add-on was increased as much as 58%; that of the polyester/cotton was increased 24%. The increased burning rate is apparently related to theamount of cotton in the fabric. Polyester/cotton (PE/C) fabric required substantially less retardant than cotton to become self-extinguishing in the horizontal position.
Simultaneous Dye and Finish Fixation on a Radiation-Induced N-Methylolacrylamide-Treated Wool/Viscose Blend
Authors: Nasr H.I. , Abdel-Fattah S.H. , El-Kharadly E.A.
Published: March 2008

The present work deals with the radiation-chemical modification of a wool/viscose (W/V) blend (50/50), aiming at studying the feasibility of a simultaneous dyeing and finishing of the modified substrate in a single-step process. Gamma rays (0.54-1.35 Mrad)-induced grafting of N-methylolacrylamide (NMA) onto W/V was studied. Results indicate that a dose of 1.08 Mrad is appropriate under the given conditions. The role of NMA concentration (1-6%) was also investi gated, and the add-on was found to increase with initial monomer concentration. An appropriate thermocatalytic setting process is reported in addition to a suggested reaction mechanism for the simultaneous dyeing and finishing. Excellent dyeability is obtained towards S-triazinyl reactive dyes with improvements in dry-crease resistance and dimensional stability of the treated blend, with the tensile strength remaining intact. The textile evaluations are reported.
Fabric Ignition by Flame Impingement
Authors: Miller Bernard , Martin J. Ronald , Turner Rudolph
Published: March 2008

An apparatus has been constructed and data evaluation techniques developed for quantifying the ease of ignition of fabrics exposed to a small flame. The method takes careful account of fabric moisture content, which can have a substantial influence on this form of ignitability. A proposed specific ignition resistance coefficient, obtained from yes-no trials at preset exposure times, is inde pendent of fabric weight and ambient humidity, so that ignitability can be compared on a common basis.
A Contribution to the Study of the Contraction of Rotor Yarns
Authors: Barella A. , Vigo J.P. , Manich A.M.
Published: March 2008

Experiments carried out on cotton, acrylic, and polyester/cotton rotor-spun yams obtained in two types of open-end machines (Süssen and Elitex) show that the spinning contraction value seems to be dependent on machine type and on yarn winding tension during spinning. Some predicting formulas are given for special cases.
Thermal Shrinkage and Mechanical Crimping During False-Twist Texturing
Authors: Quynn Richard G. , Poisson William H.
Published: March 2008

A mass flow analysis of the conventional double-heater false-twist process shows that the yarn thermal shrinkage over the first heater equals exactly the imposed first overfeed. A relationship is derived between the yarn " mechanical shrinkage," thermal shrinkage over the second heater, and the imposed second overfeed. Single-heater results are shown to result from a special case of the more general analysis. Some supporting experimental results are given.
Dacron®/Orlon® Blends in Apparel—Product Value, Wear Comfort, Energy Savings, and Environmental Aspects
Authors: Wallenberger F.T.
Published: March 2008

A growing trade interest has recently developed in cotton spun yarns from blends of low-dpf Dacron® and Orlon® staple for traditional cotton-type knits and wovens. Dacron as the major blend com ponent (e.g. 75%) offers excellent strength, ease-of-care, better fabric stability, and better whiteness retention than cotton and cotton blends. Orlon as the minor blend component (e.g. 25%) offers a soft, natural hand, high bulk and cover, superior coloration potential, and better wear comfort than cotton and cotton blends.

Dacron/Orlon blends will place a lower demand on energy resources—an important advantage today and for the future. They dry faster in finishing plants and home dryers. Also, lower wash temperatures and shorter drying cycles are satisfactory in commercial and home-laundering. Dacron/ Orlon blends use less water in commercial dyeing operation and hence conserve an important resource. Furthermore, Dacron/Orlon dyebaths gave lower effluent loads than those used for cotton and blends. In addition, the cotton dust problem is eliminated with Dacron/Orlon blends.
On the Mechanisms of Tearing in Woven Fabrics
Authors: Hamkins Christopher P. , Backer Stanley
Published: March 2008

A short review is provided of the models used by earlier researchers to explain or predict tear re sistance of woven fabrics. Many such models emphasize either differential yam extension in the region of the tear or differential yarn slippage across the apex of the tear. A limited number of experi ments with selected specimen extremes are used to demonstrate the presence of yam slippage and/or local yarn extensions, both across and along the tear. The use of commercial reprography provides a simple inexpensive method of recording local displacements and strains during or after the tear test.
Theory on Heater Cross-Over in the False-Twist Texturing Operation
Authors: Familant Harold M.
Published: March 2008

A simple mathematical theory is proposed that suggests that heater "cross-over" in the false-twist texturing process is caused by an upset in the friction-tension balance of a threadline on the primary heater. This theory predicts that there are a number of finish and texturing variables that could be associated with heater cross-overs, and these predictions are consistent with many experimental observations of cross-over behavior that have been observed in practice. Further fundamental studies are required to test the theory and to achieve better understanding of heater cross-over mechanisms.
A Study of the Input and Output Variability in Jute Breaker Card
Authors: Mazumder M.C.
Published: March 2008

The finding of a study on input and output variability (computed on input test length multiplied by the draft) at the breaker card stage is reported here. It has been shown that, under normal condi tions, breaker card itself does not contribute towards added irregularity, even when different drafts and different grades of fibers are used. Control of the regularity at the input is essential to achieve better regularity of breaker card sliver.
The Prediction of the Yield of Greasy Wool by Near-Infrared Reflectance Spectroscopy
Authors: Connell J.P. , Norris K.H.
Published: March 2008

The prediction of the yield of greasy wool from the estimation of the wool content of washed wool by near-infrared reflectance spectroscopy is demonstrated. This rapid, dry, nondestructive instrumental method is free from systematic error and approaches the accuracy of the conventional gravimetric method against which it is calibrated.
Photo-Oxidation of the Serine, Threonine, and Cystine Side-Chains of Wool to Carbonyl Derivatives
Authors: Holt L.A. , Milligan B.
Published: March 2008

Irradiation of wool by simulated sunlight, followed by reduction with sodium borotritide and acid hydrolysis, gives radiolabeled serine, threonine, and allo-threonine. Application of the same procedure to wool in which cystine residues have been reduced and carboxymethylated, or in which serine and threonine residues have been sulphated, gives the same three labeled amino acids, but in different pro portions. Our interpretation of these results is (1) that serine and cystine residues are photo-oxidized to α-formylglycine residues, which borotritide reduction converts to 2H-serine residues, and (2) that threonine residues are photo-oxidized to α-acetylglycine residues, which reduction converts to threonine and allo-threonine residues. Circumstantial evidence for the photo-oxidation of serine (and possibly cystine) residues to α-carboxyglycine residues is also presented.
The Fundamental Basis for Fiber Formation and Fiber Structure
Authors: Lindenmeyer Paul H.
Published: March 2008

The basic fiber-forming process is treated as a dissipative process in which the structures formed depend upon both the stochastic nature of the fluctuation that initiates the process and the minimum dissipation of energy that determines its path. In contrast with equilibrium structures, which are homogeneous and unlimited in size, dissipative structures are inhomogeneous and have characteristic sizes. Such structures are formed when a steady-state irreversible process far from equilibrium becomes unstable to a space-dependent fluctuation. In effect, an inhomogeneous structure becomes a more efficient means of storing the excess energy--given quantitatively by the temperature times the entropy production. What would appear to be a highly improbable molecular arrangement accord ing to equilibrium thermodynamics becomes the arrangement that minimizes the dissipation of energy as well as the thermodynamic forces on the system.
Factors Influencing the Critical Dissolution Time of Textile Fibers
Authors: Gulrajani M.L. , Saxena R.K.
Published: March 2008

The dissolution of the fiber takes place on penetration of the solvent sufficient enough to break down the intermolecular forces to an extent that molecular chains become virtually free, and this is observed as a mechanical failure of the fiber under tension due to the load. The tension on the fiber influences the critical dissolution time (CDT) significantly. Since the tension leads to the orientation of the molecular chains, it appears that the increase in CDT is due to the restriction to the diffusion of phenol molecules into the oriented space of the fiber kept under tension. The results imply that in addition to the crystallinity, the size, and the stability of the crystalline portions of the fiber, the orientation also influences the CDT.
Improved Sheath/Core Adhesion in Biconstituent Fibers via Interface Mixing
Authors: Southern John H. , Martin Donald H. , Baird Donald G.
Published: March 2008

Biconstituent melt-flow through a porous unit, known as the Interface Mixer Insert, is used to achieve adhesion within sheath/core fibers spun from two incompatible polymers, as exemplified herein by nylon and polyester. Sheath splitting and void formation at the interface are documented for nylon sheath/polyester core filaments having essentially no adhesion between the sheath and the core. Improved adhesion as a function of Interface Mixer Insert filtration media is examined via optical and electron microscopy and correlated with a qualitative fabric-endurance evaluation as well as a quantitative adhesion-peel-strength test.
Some Physico-Chemical Studies on the Primary and Secondary Fibers of Low-Crimp Merino Wool
Authors: Kulkarni V.G.
Published: March 2008

Regardless of whether primary fibers are richer in sulfur and/or more crystalline and swell less, the results in the present study on primary and secondary fibers from low-crimp Merino wools on normal nutrition show that both the wool fiber types have very similar sulfur contents and nearly identical levels of swelling in formic acid, irrespective of the marked difference in their diameters, length, and crimp frequehcy. The agreement among the sulfur contents, chemical compositions, and swelling results in the present study suggests very strongly that the structure and composition of the keratins extruded by the two follicle types are virtually identical. It is postulated that the distribution of high- sulfur (matrix) protein and low-sulfur (microfibrillar) protein in these keratin fibers must be practically the same.
The Binding of Polyamines to Wool
Authors: Rivett Donald E.
Published: March 2008

The irreversible binding of 14C radiolabelled polyamines to wool, under conditions comparable to that used in shrink-resist treatments, has been demonstrated. An estimate of the relative levels of ionically and covalently bound polyamine has also been made. Analysis of the hydrolyzed treated wool revealed a complex mixture of radiolabelled products with no single product predominating. Comparative studies with silk, lysozyme, and acetyldehydroalanine support the hypothesis that the reaction is mainly confined to addition to dehydroalanine residues, arising from cystine or serine residues. No evidence for transamination of asparagine or glutamine residues could be found.
Torsional Fatigue and the Initiation Mechanism of Pilling
Authors: Goswami B.C. , Duckett K.E. , Vigo T.L.
Published: March 2008

Torsional fatigue studies in polyester fibers have revealed that the fracture morphology of ruptured fiber surfaces is influenced by the level of torsional strain amplitude. At relatively high strain ampli tude the mechanism of fracture seems to be governed by the propagation of a single large crack. However, at low strain amplitudes, the fibers exhibit a slow and gradual breakdown of structure, starting with the surface layers. The surface morphology and the fracture phenomenon observed in the later case essentially resemble what happens in the formation of pills from polyester fibers in garments.
Dye-Induced Changes in the Mechanical and Physical Properties of Dyed Nylon 6 Fibers
Authors: Gulrajani M.L. , Saxena R.K. , Sengupta A.K.
Published: March 2008

The effect of the presence of dyes in nylon 6 fibers has been studied. It is seen that the presence of acid, disperse, and reactive dyes brings about perceptible changes in the stress-strain characteristics of the dyed fibers. From the results it was concluded that the physical hindrance by the dye molecules is independent of the forces binding the dye to its site in the fiber phase. The dye participates in the structural rearrangements of the fiber during dyeing with disperse and disperse reactive dyes, and this is detected by the increase in critical dissolution time of the dyed fibers. However, such a phe nomenon is not observed in the case of fibers dyed with acid dyes.
Improvement of Filter Media for Cotton Dust Control
Authors: Lamb George E.R. , Dunbar Janet B. , Costanza Peter A.
Published: March 2008

The performance of pile fabrics used as filter media in cotton-mill local-exhaust-ventilation systems was examined.. It was first established that a satisfactory laboratory-test aerosol of cotton dust could be generated from previously collected trash. It was found, as a by-product of this first step, that cotton dust contains few particles smaller than about 0.5 μm. A filtration apparatus was built for measurements at face velocities from 0.5 to 1.0 m/s. Within this range the penetration for these fabrics increased almost linearly with velocity. The particle-size distribution up- and downstream of the fabrics was almost identical, indicating that penetration was either of the "straight through" or of the "pinhole plug" type. The concepts of electrical stimulation of fabric filtration were explored to establish whether this method could be used to improve the performance of cotton-dust filter media. It was observed that an electric field generated by the application of 9 kV to wires on the up stream surface of the fabrics reduced both penetration and cake resistance by approximately 50%. It was also found that certain modifications of the fabric structure can improve filtration efficiency.
The Use of Moving Yarn Belts for Continuous Dehumidification
Authors: Miller Bernard , Friedman Henry , Meiser Charles H.
Published: March 2008

A novel low-energy alternative to conventional dehumidification systems has been devised. A moving loop of cellulosic yarns adsorbs water vapor from an air space, transports it outside where it is desorbed by solar or other heating, and returns to the interior to repeat the process, so that moisture is removed and disposed of continuously. The method is based on the potential of cellulosic yarns for rapid interaction with water vapor, the strong inverse dependence of water uptake on temperature and the tensile strength and flexibility of yarns. A laboratory-scale unit, found capable of reducing humidity to a satisfactory level in a reasonable time, has supplied data for potential scaling-up using practical equipment dimensions, air flow rate, yarn velocity, etc. Experience with the demonstration unit indicates that the yarn is far from saturated under the dynamic conditions of operation, and that the transient water is taken up on the most accessible yarn surfaces and does not diHuse to any great extent into the interior.
Migration of Crosslinking Reagents in Cotton Fabric During Resin-Finishing Treatments
Authors: Pandey S.N. , Raje C.R.
Published: March 2008

Migration and distribution of crosslinking reagents during controlled drying of cotton fabric cross linked with dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea (DMDHEU) and dimethytotatkyl triazone (TAE) has been reported. Effects of different temperatures (60, 70, and 80°C) and times (0 60 min) on rate of drying and migration of DMDHEU reagent have been investigated. Migration and distribution of reagent and drying of crosslinked fabric treated with triazone were studied at 80°C only. Rate of drying for fabrics treated with DMDHEU and dried at different temperature showed similar trends, and the rate of drying increased with an increase in the drying temperature. The sample treated with TAE showed a similar trend, but the rate of drying was higher. The agent migration was highest after 60 min of drying at 60°C and lowest at 80°C. The fabric sample treated with TAE showed a higher rate of migration compared to the corresponding sample of DMDHEU after 10 min of drying. The relationship between agent migration and rateof drying is discussed.
The Effect of Cotton Grade, Variety, and Growing Location on the Dust Generated in a Model Card Room
Authors: Hersh S.P. , Hobby C.K. , Fornes R.E. , Batra S.K.
Published: March 2008

The influence of cotton grade, growing location, and genetic variety on the amount of cotton dust generated while processing cotton in a model card room has been examined. Even though data collected from 140 bales were considered, an analysis of variance based on a standard linear additive model could not be made because the samples available were unbalanced with respect to the inde pendent variables. The data were therefore evaluated by determining whether any deviations in the amount of dust emitted by individual bales from that of the average measured on all bales of the same grade of cotton could be attributed to growing location and/or variety. In general, the results suggest that cottons grown in the eastern U. S. A. produce somewhat less dust in the card room for a given grade of cotton than the U. S. A. average; and cottons grown in the arid areas of the west, somewhat more than average. Quantitatively, deviations from the U. S. A. average ranged from -146 to +145 μg/m3, a spread that is almost inconsequential when compared with the 3.5 times greater range observed among bales of a single grade of cotton grown in a single state. Variety effects were even smaller than state effects. Many factors other than growing location and variety were observed to have large effects on the measured dust concentrations.
Mechanics of Large Deformation of Twisted-Filament Yarns
Authors: Komori Takashi , Makishima Kunio , Itoh Motoyoshi
Published: March 2008

An extended theory on the mechanics of twisted homogeneous-filament yarns is put forth, in which yarns are regarded as random fiber assemblies characterized by the distributions of fiber orientation; the large deformation is discussed, taking into consideration the possible change in fiber orientation. The obtained result relates the load-strain properties of twisted-filament yarns to those of the original twistless strands, the orientation distributions, and the ratios of transverse contraction of the yarns. The general expression is applied to a special case of constant contraction ratio and reduced to an explicit formula.

Experimental estimations of the distributions of orientation and other properties are carried out for actual yarns of various twists, on the basis of which their load-elongation relations are numerically calculated using the special formula. Their agreement with the experimental values is fairly good over the wide range of strain up to the breaking-point for the yarns of moderate twist (less than about 3.2 turns/cm).