bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Egypt, Ptolemaic
Authors: Fischer-Bovet Christelle
Published: April 2016

After the death of Alexander, king of Macedon, his generals fought to control most of the Persian empire he had conquered. Ptolemy, son of Lagos, secured Egypt as governor (satrap) of the Argead kings and then as the king from 305/4 bce, expanding his kingdom to include territories around the eastern Mediterranean from Cyrenaica to Asia Minor. The dynasty of the Ptolemies, ruling from its new capital Alexandria for about three centuries, was the longest-lasting both in Egyptian history and among the contemporary Hellenistic states. The last queen of Egypt, Cleopatra VII, and her ally, Mark Antony, were defeated at Actium by Octavian, who annexed Egypt after Cleopatra’s suicide and created the Roman province of Egypt in 30 bce. The main literary sources are Polybius and Diodorus of Sicily, who provide only partial accounts of Ptolemaic history, and Justin’s Epitome of Pompeius Trogus. Flavius Josephus offers a Judean perspective. Greek and Demotic Egyptian papyri preserved in the dry Egyptian sand form most of the evidence, which ranges from land registers and accounts to petitions and letters. Together with Greek and Egyptian inscriptions, coins, and archaeological material, these papyri make Egypt one of the best-documented regions of the period.
arms and armour, Greek
Authors: Sears Matthew A.
Published: April 2016

Evidence for Greek arms and armour is found throughout literature and art, and from archaeological excavation and historical reenactment. Mycenaean and Homeric warriors fought with spears and swords, protecting themselves with figure-eight shields and sometimes body armour. Hoplites wielded large round shields with double grips and attacked their enemies with thrusting spears backed up by swords. This basic kit could be supplemented by helmets, breastplates (including linen options as well as bronze), and greaves. Light-armed troops, with virtually no armour, attacking with arrows, slings, and stones were always a part of armies, and peltasts throwing javelins became increasingly popular. The Macedonians modified the phalanx by giving it longer spears and smaller shields, and coordinated this infantry in a combined arms force with cavalry of various types, particularly heavy cavalry with lances, and light-armed troops. Arms and armour were often key to a soldier’s identity and could feature in competitive display.
Atlantic Ocean
Authors: Roller Duane W.
Published: April 2016

The Atlantic Ocean (literally “the Ocean of Atlas”) was known to Greeks since the time of Homer, but the term did not come into use until the 5th century bce, because of mythological associations of the giant Atlas with the far western Mediterranean. Phoenicians were the first to sail on the ocean, perhaps as early as the beginning of the first millennium bce, and Greeks first went beyond the Pillars of Heracles into the Atlantic in the latter 7th century bce.

Much of the early Greek exploration of the Atlantic was due to Massalians, who by 500 bce had gone south of the Pillars into the tropics, and north perhaps to the British Isles, primarily seeking trade connections. The Carthaginians also went beyond the Pillars, even farther than the Massalians, but their explorations were only vaguely known to the Graeco-Roman world until 146 bce.

The greatest Greek explorer of the Atlantic was Pytheas of Massalia, who in the latter 4th century bce explored the British Isles and headed north into the Arctic, discovering Thule (probably Iceland), and reaching the Norwegian coast. After the fall of Carthage, the South Atlantic was open to Greeks (and eventually Romans). Polybius of Megalopolis went to the equatorial regions, and Eudoxus of Cyzicus attempted to perfect a route to India around the continent of Africa.

The Atlantic islands were also explored, in part. There is evidence for contact with the Madeiras and Canaries, and less certain information about the Cape Verdes and Azores. There is, however, no reliable evidence that anyone from Graeco-Roman antiquity crossed the Atlantic and returned to report on it: casual finds of antiquities in the New World are generally dismissed. Yet exploration of the Atlantic led to the development of tidal theories—tides in the Mediterranean are minimal—first by Pytheas, and then later by Poseidonius and others.

The Romans added little to ancient knowledge of the Atlantic, although they explored the region between the British Isles and Scandinavia, which they named the North Sea. But a series of maritime disasters in the early 1st century ce led the Romans to abandon travel on the ocean, and nothing more was discovered until medieval times.
art, funerary, Greek
Authors: Arrington Nathan T.
Published: April 2016

Art was an essential component of funeral practices in ancient Greece. From inexpensive vases deposited with the dead to monumental statues standing over tombs, graves are one of the most important sources of evidence for Greek material culture. These archaeological contexts provide data on the chronology and regional variation of Greek art. The funeral setting allows scholars to study the relation of art to its social, political, and cultural contexts. Literary sources, such as texts that describe burial rituals or attitudes toward the dead, complement this study. The picture, detailed as it is, remains selective. Some physical materials, such as textiles, do not survive well in the archaeological record, despite their ancient value, and poor or simple graves may remain invisible to excavators. The looting of archaeological sites and the absence of detailed publications from excavated sites preclude scholarly access to the full spectrum of material culture in funeral settings.
athletics, Greek
Authors: Bertolín Cebrián Reyes
Published: April 2016

Athletics is often used as a synonym for sport. It involves physical activity, mostly organized through training and competition. Athletics was an integral part of Greek cultural identity throughout all periods of Greek history. In the realm of material culture, sources for the study of sport range from the great sanctuaries at Olympia or Delphi to sculpture, ceramics, votive offerings, and even coins. Written sources of all genres describe the practice of athletics or use sport metaphors and anecdotes to embellish the narrative or discuss issues. There are mentions of athletics in epic poetry, lyric, tragedy, comedy, oratory, philosophy, history, and technical writings. Inscriptions offer abundant information as well. From the great variety of sources available, it is obvious that athletics was more than a mere pastime for the Greeks. Apart from competition, the Greeks saw value in athletics as a way to socialize and educate the young. Through the practice of athletics, the Greeks projected the image of strong, self-controlled, and independent individuals.
Lucrezia Marinella
Authors: Stampino Maria Galli
Published: April 2016

Lucrezia Marinella (b. 1571–d. 1653) was a widely known author in Venice and throughout Italy in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. Her poetry and prose works were printed (and even reprinted), attracting notice and renown. Despite her subsequent fame as a proto-feminist, most of her writing is devoted to religious topics, in which her personal, pro-woman stance is present but expressed in ways that are in keeping with the constraints of genre and the culture of her time. She was daughter, sister, and wife to physicians. Marinella’s knowledge emerges as varied and extensive in her writings. Her published texts fall between 1595 and 1605 and then 1617 and 1648; this hiatus is usually explained by the date of her marriage (1607). As remarkable as the length of her career is the span of topics her works engage: lives and stories of the Virgin and of several saints, the struggle of man to defeat sin under the guise of classical mythology, the role of women in society and culture, and the Fourth Crusade are but a few. From her will we know she had a son and a daughter, as well as a granddaughter from the latter. Her diverse topics, choice of form, wide-ranging selection of dedicatees, individual voice, and long career make her an important point of reference for exploring post–Council of Trent literary production by women in Italian.
Abolitionism and Africa
Authors: Everill Bronwen
Published: April 2016

From the beginning of the organized abolition campaigns in the Atlantic world in the 1780s, antislavery campaigners were interested in Africa as both an idea and a place for action. Different groups looked to Africa with ideas for how to suppress the supply of slaves from Africa, to use Africa to establish colonies that would demonstrate the efficiency of free labor over enslaved labor, and to develop new African exports for the Atlantic economy. Africa served a dual purpose in European and American abolitionist thinking, as both an object of anti–slave trade and later antislavery interventions, and as a rhetorical trope for developing new ideas about nonslave labor and utopian social formation. Much of this rhetoric drew on long-standing ideas about Africa’s potential as a place for the production of primary commodities, but abolition’s rhetoric also changed the way that people around the Atlantic were thinking about Africa and Africans by linking the evangelicalism and “civilizational” discourse of antislavery rhetoric to, on the one hand, the imagined image of Africa as a “savage” wilderness, and, on the other, the imagined place of Africans as objectified victims of the slave trade. These competing ideas shaped the political and economic role of Africa within the Atlantic world over the course of the 19th century. The impact of abolitionism on African political, social, and economic life over the course of the 19th century varied widely as a result of these multiple objectives. African societies responded to or anticipated abolitionism in different ways depending on their earlier involvement in, or resistance to, the slave trade. Internal commercial and political changes in Futa Toro, in Futa Jallon, in the Oyo Kingdom, in the Akan states, in the Kingdom of Kongo, and elsewhere in the early 19th century affected African regions’ differential participation in the Atlantic slave trade and in abolitionism. As a result of these varying experiences of abolitionist interventions in Africa, historians have debated the extent of connections between abolitionism and economic crises in Africa, abolitionism and political disruption, and abolitionism and colonial rule. Because European abolitionism coincided with these political changes, and brought about a fundamental change in the economic organization of the Atlantic system, there is no clear cause-and-effect chain linking abolitionism to imperialism, or economic change to abolitionism. Nonetheless, abolition played an important—if multidimensional and contested—role in shaping the relationship between African producers, consumer, politicians, and religious figures and the Atlantic world in the 19th century.
Childhood as Discourse
Authors: Ryan Patrick
Published: April 2016

Outside of pediatric medical science, positivistic developmental psychology, or econometrics and demography, childhood researchers highly value and often practice reading childhood as discourse, as a body of representational practice. Unfortunately, “discourse” is a concept whose bibliographic handling is susceptible to two errors: (a) the mistake of using overwrought theoretical distinctions that do not reflect the thick empirical nature of studying childhood as discourse, and (b) the futility of lumping most of the critical study of childhood into one meta-category. In response to this difficulty, this bibliography will pay little attention to whether writers offered an allegiance to discourse analysis as such. Instead, it identifies works that have significantly contributed to our ability to read childhood as discourse. After outlining the foundational works, guides, and invaluable tools of reference for discourse research, this bibliography is organized around the conclusion that our ability to read childhood as discourse stems from three fruitful pathways: the history of language, ideas, and knowledge; literary and art criticism; and cultural studies and contemporary ideology critique.
François Truffaut
Authors: Fox Alistair
Published: April 2016

François Truffaut (b. 1932–d. 1984) is renowned both for the originality and for the enduring popularity of his films, being considered an iconic figure of the French New Wave, a movement for which he was an aggressive and controversial spokesman. Prior to becoming a filmmaker, Truffaut was a critic and film theorist, contributing to the journal Cahiers du Cinéma. Notorious for his ferocious attack on traditional French “quality cinema,” he also asserted that the director is the true author of a film, on the grounds that a director’s stylistic and thematic choices reveal his identity as surely as fingerprints. Having turned to filmmaking, Truffaut achieved instant success with his first feature film, The 400 Blows (Les 400 coups), which gained a prize at the Cannes Festival in 1959 and was universally acclaimed. Thereafter, he regularly produced a film every two years, accumulating an oeuvre of twenty-five films, a number of which, such as Day for Night (La Nuit américaine, 1973) and The Last Metro (Le Dernier Métro, 1980), were highly successful both in France and abroad. Subsequently, Truffaut’s reputation suffered a decline as his popularity grew with the incorporation of elements of genre cinema into his films, which caused certain of his fellow filmmakers, such as Jean-Luc Godard, to see him as betraying the ideals of the New Wave for the sake of achieving commercial success. In recent years, however, there has been a revival of interest in Truffaut, reflected in several retrospectives of his films, and the discovery of complexities in his work that have modified earlier appraisals of him as a sentimental, lightweight filmmaker. Indisputably, Truffaut has exerted an enormous influence on subsequent filmmaking in France and elsewhere, his influence being most evident in the auteur cinema of le Jeune Cinéma Français (Young French Cinema) of the 1990s and 2000s, the New Hollywood cinema of the 1970s, recent American “indie” movies, and various “New Waves” in a number of national cinemas such as those of Germany, Denmark, Taiwan, Australia, and New Zealand. Prominent contemporary filmmakers such as Steven Spielberg, Arnaud Desplechin, and Tsai Ming Liang have freely confessed their debt to Truffaut, leaving little doubt that Truffaut is emerging as one of the most influential figures in the history of cinema. Tragically, Truffaut’s career was cut short by his death from a brain tumor in 1984, leaving a number of foreshadowed projects unrealized.
The Great Leap Forward and the Famine
Authors: Wemheuer Felix
Published: April 2016

Until the early 1980s, little was known about the Great Leap Famine (1959–1962) that caused the deaths of 15 to 45 million Chinese. Mao Zedong’s campaign called the “Great Leap Forward” (1958–1961) (大跃进) aimed to transform China into a modern industrial nation and to prepare China for communism in the near future. However, the Great Leap resulted in one of the greatest disasters in history. In the three years that followed, a massive famine occurred. Serious academic demographic research started when the population census completed in 1982 became available. In the 1990s, political scientists and economists dominated the field of research. They tried to adopt Western theories of bureaucratic organizations and apply statistical models to understand the causes and progression of the Great Leap. The research in this period was strongly focused on the role of Mao Zedong and elite politics. In the 2000s, a new generation of scholars carried out research regarding the experiences of ordinary people and the famine at the village level. It became possible for foreign scholars to hold oral history interviews with survivors of the famine and get access to county archives. Substantial provincial and local variations regarding death rates and the radicalism of leaders were debated. While some books on the famine were banned on mainland China, memoirs of cadres, new biographies of party leaders, or collections of government documents could be published. In the last few years, the Great Leap Famine has become a hot topic and scholarly research has reached a broader Western audience. New archival histories have been published based on documents from provincial archives.
Evolutionary stability of microbial communities with antibiotic degrading species
Authors: Kelsic Eric D. , Vetsigian Kalin , Kishony Roy
Published: April 2016

A major puzzle in ecology is how antibiotic resistant, sensitive and producer species coexist in close proximity. Recently, we showed that antibiotic degrading species dramatically alter community dynamics: replacing intrinsic resistance with resistance through degradation generates stable communities resilient to spatial mixing, large species abundance perturbations, changes in interaction strengths, and differences in species growth rates1. In addition to ecological stability, it is interesting to consider evolutionary stability of these communities to the appearance of cheater species that either cease production or degradation of antibiotics. Our investigation of evolutionary stability of cyclical 3-species communities revealed that these communities are robust to cheaters that stop degrading antibiotics. Our simulations also showed that cheaters that stop producing antibiotics do not take over the community1, yet they can transiently invade and cause community collapse2. In the analytical approximation we initially investigated, production cheaters with a small fitness advantage can invade the community simply because the benefit of inhibiting competitors is shared among all cells2. Here, we consider evolutionary stability to cheaters in our complete model1, where spatial mixing is introduced only after a short range colonization step. In this regime, an antibiotic producer cell directly benefits from killing nearby competitor species as it has a greater chance of colonizing the newly voided spaces created by the action of its antibiotic. Simulating response to cheater invasions for the cyclical three species community and for random 4-species ecologically stable topologies, we find that these communities can be fully resilient to both degradation and production cheaters. The strength of selection against cheaters varies with the area of the zone of inhibition around producers and is maximized for weak inhibition, where there is less overlap between the killing zones of neighboring cells. These results may aid the construction of complex synthetic communities that are both ecological and evolutionary stable.
Repeated duplication of Argonaute2 is associated with strong selection and testis specialization inDrosophila
Authors: Lewis Samuel H. , Webster Claire L. , Salmela Heli , Obbard Darren J.
Published: April 2016

Argonaute2 (Ago2) is a rapidly evolving nuclease in theDrosophila melanogasterRNA interference (RNAi) pathway that targets viruses and transposable elements in somatic tissues. Here we reconstruct the history of Ago2 duplications across theDrosophila obscuragroup, and use patterns of gene expression to infer new functional specialization. We show that some duplications are old, shared by the entire species group, and that losses may be common, including previously undetected losses in the lineage leading toD. pseudoobscura. We find that while the original (syntenic) gene copy has generally retained the ancestral ubiquitous expression pattern, most of the novel Ago2 paralogues have independently specialized to testis-specific expression. Using population genetic analyses, we show that most testis-specific paralogues have significantly lower genetic diversity than the genome-wide average. This suggests recent positive selection in three different species, and model-based analyses provide strong evidence of recent hard selective sweeps in or near four of the six D. pseudoobscura Ago2 paralogues. We speculate that the repeated evolution of testis-specificity in obscura group Ago2 genes, combined with their dynamic turnover and strong signatures of adaptive evolution, may be associated with highly derived roles in the suppression of transposable elements or meiotic drive. Our study highlights the lability of RNAi pathways, even within well-studied groups such asDrosophila, and suggests that strong selection may act quickly after duplication in RNAi pathways, potentially giving rise to new and unknown RNAi functions in non-model species.

Supporting Data

All new sequences produced in this study have been submitted to Genbank asKX016642-KX016771.
A new dispersal-informed null model for community ecology shows strong performance
Authors: Miller Eliot
Published: April 2016

Null models in ecology have been developed that, by maintaining some aspects of observed communities and repeatedly randomizing others, allow researchers to test for the action of community assembly processes like habitat filtering and competitive exclusion. Such processes are often detected using phylogenetic community structure metrics. When biologically significant elements, such as the number of species per assemblage, break down during randomizations, it can lead to high error rates. Realistic dispersal probabilities are often neglected during randomization, and existing models make the oftentimes empirically unreasonable assumption that all species are equally probable of dispersing to a given site. When this assumption is unwarranted, null models need to incorporate dispersal probabilities. I do so here, and present a dispersal null model (DNM) that strictly maintains species richness, and approximately maintains species occurrence frequencies and total abundance. I tested its statistical performance when used with a wide breadth of phylogenetic community structure metrics across 3,000 simulated communities assembled according to neutral, habitat filtering, and competitive exclusion processes. The DNM performed well, exhibiting low error rates (both type I and II). I also implemented it in a re-analysis of a large empirical dataset, an abundance matrix of 696 sites and 75 species of Australian Meliphagidae. Although the overall signal from that study remained unchanged, it showed that statistically significant phylogenetic clustering could have been an artifact of dispersal limitations.
The proper connection between shelterin components is required for telomeric heterochromatin assembly
Authors: Wang Jiyong , Cohen Allison L. , Letian Anudari , Tadeo Xavier , Moresco James J. , Liu Jinqiang , Yates John R. , Qiao Feng , Jia Songtao
Published: April 2016

Telomeric regions contain prominent sites of heterochromatin, which is associated with unique histone modification profiles such as the methylation of histone H3 at Lys9 (H3K9me). In fission yeast, the conserved telomeric shelterin complex recruits the histone H3K9 methyltransferase complex CLRC to establish subtelomeric heterochromatin. Although many shelterin mutations affect subtelomeric heterochromatin assembly, the mechanism remains elusive due to the diverse functions of shelterin. Through affinity purification, we found that shelterin directly associates with CLRC through the Ccq1 subunit. Surprisingly, mutations that disrupt interactions between shelterin subunits compromise subtelomeric heterochromatin without affecting CLRC interaction with shelterin component Pot1, located at chromosome ends. We further discovered that telomeric repeats are refractory to heterochromatin spreading and that artificial restoration of shelterin connections or increased heterochromatin spreading rescued heterochromatin defects in these shelterin mutants. Thus, subtelomeric heterochromatin assembly requires both the recruitment of CLRC by shelterin to chromosome ends and the proper connection of shelterin components, which allows CLRC to skip telomeric repeats to internal regions.
Genetic insights into the mechanisms of Fgf signaling
Authors: Brewer J. Richard , Mazot Pierre , Soriano Philippe
Published: April 2016

The fibroblast growth factor (Fgf) family of ligands and receptor tyrosine kinases is required throughout embryonic and postnatal development and also regulates multiple homeostatic functions in the adult. Aberrant Fgf signaling causes many congenital disorders and underlies multiple forms of cancer. Understanding the mechanisms that govern Fgf signaling is therefore important to appreciate many aspects of Fgf biology and disease. Here we review the mechanisms of Fgf signaling by focusing on genetic strategies that enable in vivo analysis. These studies support an important role for Erk1/2 as a mediator of Fgf signaling in many biological processes but have also provided strong evidence for additional signaling pathways in transmitting Fgf signaling in vivo.
Microfluidics Technologies for Low Cell Number Chromatin Immunoprecipitation
Authors: Wu Angela R. , Quake Stephen R.
Published: April 2016

Protein–DNA interactions are responsible for numerous critical cellular events: For example, gene expression and silencing are mediated by transcription factor protein binding and histone protein modifications, and DNA replication and repair rely on site-specific protein binding. Chromatin immunoprecipitation (ChIP) is the only molecular assay that directly determines, in a living cell, the binding association between a protein of interest and specific genomic loci. It is an indispensible tool in the biologist’s toolbox, but the many limitations of this technique prevent broad adoption of ChIP in biological studies. The typical ChIP assay can take up to 1 wk to complete, and the process is technically tricky, yet tedious. The ChIP assay yields are also low, thus requiring on the order of millions to billions of cells as starting material, which makes the assay unfeasible for studies using rare or precious samples. For example, fluorescence-activated cell sorting (FACS) of cancer stem cells (CSCs) obtained from primary tumors, rarely yields more than ~100,000 CSCs per tumor. This protocol describes a microfluidics-based strategy for performing ChIP, which uses automation and scalability to reduce both total and hands-on assay time, and improve throughput. It allows whole fixed cells as input, and enables automated ChIP from as few as 2000 cells.
Melilite-like modulation and temperature-dependent evolution in the framework structure of K2Sc[Si2O6]F
Authors: Hejny Clivia , Kahlenberg Volker , Eberhard Tim , Krüger Hannes
Published: April 2016

The crystal structure of synthetic K2Sc[Si2O6]F has been solved and refined as an incommensurately modulated structure in (3 + 2)-dimensional superspace. This paper describes the tetragonal structure in the superspace groupP42/mnm(α,α,0)000s(−α,α,0)0000 [a= 8.9878 (1),c= 8.2694 (2) Å,V= 668.01 (2) Å3] with modulation wavevectorsq1= 0.2982 (4)(a* + b*) andq2= 0.2982 (4)(−a* + b*). Structure refinement taking into account the modulation of positional and ADP parameters for all atoms from 3074 observed mainhkl00 and satellite reflectionshklmnof first order with single,m·n= 0, and mixed,m·n= ±1, indices converged to a finalRvalue of 0.0514. The structure is a mixed octahedral–tetrahedral framework composed of [ScO4F2] octahedra, [Si4O12] rings and K in variable coordination. Due to the modulation the O atoms move into and out of the first coordination sphere of K leading to a minimum of five and a maximum of 10 interatomic K—O distances up to 3.1 Å. Although this feature is comparable to observations in modulated fresnoite and melilite group compounds, these structures differ from K2Sc[Si2O6]F with respect to their topology. On temperature increase the intensity of the satellite reflections decreases until they disappear just above 443 K. The high-temperature normal structure, in space groupP42/mnm, is identical to the room-temperature average structure of K2Sc[Si2O6]F.
Learning the discourse of quality assurance
Authors: Lundin Mona , Lundin Johan
Published: April 2016

Purpose

In this study, online in-service training for people employed in the food production industry is scrutinized. The purpose of this study is to analyse how the participants adapt to such online environments in terms of the kind of discussions they establish. The more specific interest relates to how the participants discuss current work experiences in relation to the contents of quality assurance they are expected to learn.

Design/methodology/approach

The data analyzed are Web discussions in forms of chat log files from ten courses.

Findings

The results show that, on the one hand, general principles have to be substantiated in the form of concrete examples to actually function as principles and, on the other hand, concrete examples are made interesting only if they have a bearing on a more general issue. Another interesting finding is that the course participants gradually take over the vocabulary of quality assurance; they more frequently write about their work in terms of, e.g. criteria, relevance, estimations and hazards. The conclusion is that Web discussions as part of in-service training constitute a new arena for reflection in and on practice.

Originality/value

This is interesting to explore, as it is designed to meet the needs of employers and employees to learn the new set of rules and procedures, which regulate the European food industry. In this respect, the training activities are of direct relevance to daily work practices. Simultaneously, online environments seem to offer flexibility and thus constitute a solution for training in a dispersed industry.
Ultrasonic Assisted Dyeing Part I: Dyeing of Acrylic Fabrics Using C.I. Astrazon Basic Golden Yellow GLE
Authors: Kamel M.M. , Nassar F.A. , Helmy H.M. , Kafafy H.H.
Published: April 2016

The dyeing of acrylic fabrics using C.I. Astrazon Basic Golden Yellow GLE is studied with both conventional (CH) and ultrasonic (US) techniques. The factors that affect dyeability, such as dye bath pH, US power, dyeing time and temperature, are studied. The colour strength values obtained are found to be higher with US than CH heating. Also, the fastness properties of the dyed fabrics are determined with. A comparative study using x-ray and scanning electron microscope (SEM) that is implemented on samples to explain for the better dyeability of acrylic fabrics with the US method. Dyeing kinetics and the time/dye-uptake isotherms reveal enhanced dye-uptake in the second phase of dyeing. The values of the dyeing rate constant, half-time of dyeing and standard affinity, and US efficiency are calculated and discussed.
Self-Cleaning Wool: Effect of Formulation Concentration on Low-Stress Mechanical and Surface Properties
Authors: Tung Wing Sze , Daoud Walid A.
Published: April 2016

Self-cleaning fabrics have aroused attention in recent years by showing great potential in changing our life style to a more environmental friendly way. Although efforts have been devolved to boost the efficiency of photocatalytic self-cleaning functions, there have been
limited studies with regard to the effect of the self-cleaning finishing on fabric properties. One of the criteria in determining the usability of a fabric is its mechanical properties. In order to enhance the practicability of the self-cleaning coating treatment and widen its application, the effect of a titanium dioxide photocatalytic coating on the low-stress mechanical properties of the fabrics is studied.
Impressions of a Career on the Hard Shoulder of Textile Software: the Route to Modelling
Authors: Hearle John W S
Published: April 2016

The last 65 years have seen a development of modelling of the structural mechanics of textiles at the same time as computation moved from primitive calculations to powerful software and hardware. The development of means of access to computing is described. Early work could only deal with numerical solutions at the end of analyses of simple, general models. Now it is possible to follow individual fibre elements in space and time. The paper reviews topics covered by myself and my associates in the University of Manchester and elsewhere after my retirement: fibre fine structure; yarn mechanics; fabric mechanics; product mechanics; and rope modeling. The final part of the paper discusses modeling for the 21st century, including the problem of the “virtual catwalk” and the development of software for 3D fabrics used in composites. In contrast to aesthetic design where computer aided design (CAD) has become the common mode, the industry has not taken to modeling for technical textiles. This means that there is a lack of creative interchange between academia and industry. CAD is bound to come, but it is not possible to say when and how.
Solid Particle Erosion Behavior of Needlepunched Nonwoven Reinforced Composites
Authors: Patnaik Amar , Tejyan Sachin , Rawal Amit
Published: April 2016

The paper describes a series of preliminary experiments that are conducted to investigate the mechanical properties and erosive wear behavior of needlepunched nonwoven polypropylene (PP) fibre reinforced epoxy based composites. The tests are conducted on an air jet erosion test
rig and design of an experimental approach which utilizes Taguchi’s orthogonal arrays is adopted for an analysis of the results. The findings of the experiments indicate that fiber content in needlepunched nonwovens, impingement angle and impact velocity are significant factors in descending importance with regard to their influence on the wear rate. It is confirmed from a steady state erosion study that PP fiber reinforced epoxy nonwoven composites mostly exhibit a semi-ductile erosion response. An optimal parameter combination has been determined for minimization of erosive wear rate. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) and S/N (signal-to-noise) ratios have been performed on the measured data. The results of Taguchi’s experimental design are proposed as empirical equations for the estimation of the erosion wear rate of these composites. It is demonstrated that the predicted results obtained using the empirical model are consistent with experimental observations.
Damage Behaviour of Ncf Carbon / Epoxy Laminates Under Tension
Authors: Lomov Stepan V. , Ivanov Dmitry S. , Vallons Katleen , Verpoest Ignaas , Truong Thanh Chi
Published: April 2016

Composites reinforced by non-crimp fabrics (NCF) reach stiffness level close to the ideal cross-ply laminates with unidirectional plies, but damage behaviour of NCF-composites exhibit significant differences from the behaviour of the laminates with unidirectional plies
(non-stitched laminates). The paper presents results of experimental studies of the initiation and development of damage in NCF-composites. Some of the observed phenomena can be explained and predicted using FE modelling of the composite deformation. Others are difficult to explain; they present a challenge for understanding the behaviour of NCF-composites. The materials are carbon/epoxy composites, reinforced by biaxial NCF 0°/90° and ±45°. Two different sets of fabrics (different producers) were used for the reinforcement, and the fibre volume fraction of the plates had two different levels: about 45% and about 55%. The samples were loaded in different directions in tension. Damage initiation and development was studied using acoustic emission and X-ray investigation.
Designing Sustainable Fashion: Possibilities and Challenges
Authors: Aakko Maarit , Koskennurmi-Sivonen Ritva
Published: April 2016

In this study, we present a theoretical model, which draws together the elements of sustainability and fashion design. The data have been gathered from various sources, mainly academic literature, and a qualitative analysis has been carried out by following the principles of the grounded theory method: the data is analyzed by identifying and categorizing relevant concepts by using a constant comparative method, i.e. examining the internal consistency of each category. The aim of the model is to serve fashion designers, who wish to take sustainability into consideration. The analysis and the model answer the question of which principles and practices should be considered in sustainable fashion design. However, under further development, an integrated model helps to simultaneously see a number of facts and viewpoints that affect fashion production. The core category of the model is "considered take and return". It is based on design philosophies that are linked to other categories: material sourcing; fabric treatment; production methods; saving resources; societal implications; information transparency; and attachment and appreciation.
Substantivity and Extraction of Eco - friendly Floral Dyes: Better Waste Management
Authors: Banerjee Debanjali
Published: April 2016

This study attempts to provide an eco-friendly substitute for synthetic dyes from an unconventional but natural source. Colours obtained from nature have been part of our life for centuries. Today craftsmen in various parts of the world also use natural dyes in a limited way mainly because they are eco-friendly, non-toxic and have attractive shades. Though these dyes have been used for ages, there is limited scientific documentation on them. It is found that most flowers (especially corolla) contain colouring matters (e.g. anthocyanine and flavone) which may be in a free form or in combination with sugar (i.e. glycosidic). Most of the colouring matters present in flowers are soluble in hot water and is eco-friendly in nature. Thus, it can be applied to suitable substrates like textile fibres and paper. Natural dyes can be obtained from various plant parts, namely leaves, roots, bark, seeds, fruits and flowers. Synthetic dyes during manufacture and after use cause water pollution. Some synthetic dyes are very harmful and hazardous to health. Thus, in order to get an alternative source, substantivity of colouring matters obtained from flowers was tested on different natural fibres. Improvement of shades was achieved with fair to very good results using different eco-friendly chemicals. The results obtained show that natural dyes are almost as good as synthetic dyes.
Effect of Low Temperature Plasma Treatment on the Properties of Wool/Polyester Blend
Authors: El-Khatib E. M. , Raslan W. M. , El-Halwagy A.A. , Galab S.
Published: April 2016

Low temperature plasma (LTP) treatment of textiles has emerged as one of the environmentally friendly surface modification methods. In this work, the effect of LTP treatment generated by a dielectric barrier discharge technique (DBD) under atmospheric pressure by using three different gases; oxygen, nitrogen and air, on the properties of wool/polyester blend, is studied. The induced changes in wool/polyester blend properties, such as whiteness index, wettability, surface roughness, tensile strength, elongation %, surface morphology, dyeability and fastness properties are investigated. These changes are found to be dependent on the plasma treatment conditions, such as the gas that is used, discharge power and exposure time. The LTP treatments enhance the dyeing ability of the fibres with acid, basic and disperse dyestuffs as well as the fastness properties, and represent an approach to dyeing the blend in one bath.
Fashion Education in Sustainability in Practice
Authors: Fletcher Kate , Williams Dilys
Published: April 2016

This paper sets out the experiences of and critical reflections on devising and delivering a Masters level fashion education course in sustainability at London College of Fashion, UK. The course, first established in 2008, has been created from a collaborative, participatory and ecological paradigm, and draws on an approach to fashion education that is oriented towards process, action and creative participation in all aspects of the transition to sustainability: social, environmental and economic. This stands in contrast to conventional educational models that concentrate on product or outcome and the preparation of students for economic life. The paper describes the Masters course's broad disciplinary approach and its theoretical framework, drawn from design for sustainability. Through reference to student work, the paper goes on to set out some of the opportunities and challenges that working in this way has presented, including among others; the bridging of epistemological differences at an institutional level; new roles for designers who are working within a framework of sustainability; and emerging ways to visualize the process and practice of sustainability.
Achievement of Different Color Tones Using Natural Dye Via Burn-Out Printing Style
Authors: Abd EL-Thalouth J.I. , Nassar S. H.
Published: April 2016

Four different blended fabrics which comprised polyester/viscose (50/50), wool/cotton (50/50), wool/cotton (30/70) and cotton/linen (50/50) were subject to burn-out printing style using different agents. The latter comprised different concentrations of aluminum sulphate, sodium mono hydrogen phosphate, aluminum potassium sulphate, sodium hydroxide, tartaric acid, oxalic acid and citric acid. The burn-out printed blends were subject to dyeing using an eco-friendly natural dye, namely madder. The results obtained were evaluated via measuring the percentage (%) loss in weight, the K/S of the colored samples as well as the overall color fastness properties. The results revealed that the loss in weight was dependent on (a) the nature of the blend components, (b) the nature of the burn-out reagent, and (c) the concentration of the used reagent. The dyed burn-out areas were found to have a higher or lesser K/S than that of the ground shade. Hence, different color tones could be obtained which reflect attractive and beauty features. The overall color fastness properties for the blended fabrics printed before and after the burn-out treatment were nearly identical.
A Novel Approach to Incorporation of Chitosan in Cotton for Improving Fabric Performance
Authors: Abd el-moneim Ramadan Mohamed , Samy Samar , Abdelhady Marwa , Ali Hebeish Ali
Published: April 2016

Incorporation of chitosan in the molecular structure of a cotton surface was effected by two approaches. The first approach involved oxidation of cotton fabric with sodium periodate (NaIO4) and treatment of the fabric with chitosan in the subsequent step. The second approach formed the basis for devising a single-step process in which the fabric was treated in an aqueous solution containing both oxidants and chitosan. Appropriate conditions were established for a two-step process. The results of one step process were used to devise a novel one-step process in which cotton fabric containing chitosan could be achieved. This fabric exhibited significantly improved performances when compared with the untreated and processed fabric. It is assumed that NaIO4 oxidants and chitosan enhance the interaction of chitosan with cotton by modifying the molecular structure of both.
Flume testing of seepage velocity monitoring using optic fiber distributed temperature sensing for embankments
Authors: Wang Chunhong , Chen Jihong , Wang Jin , Chen Jianping
Published: April 2016

Purpose

Distributed temperature sensing (DTS) can identify locations and factors of seepage in embankments. Inspired by the classical transient hot-wire method (THW), the focus of this paper is to investigate the feasibility and propose a calibrated method of seepage velocity monitoring using the optical fiber DTS.

Design/methodology/approach

According to the definition and the measurement of thermal conductivity, the nominal thermal conductivity, which comprehensively reflects the influence of heat transfer and seepage factors, is proposed and the corresponding solution is also derived. Then, a flume testing platform of an embankment seepage monitoring system composed of the optical fiber heat-up subsystem, the seepage controlling subsystem and the optical fiber DTS subsystem is designed and built. Meanwhile, the data processing and assistant analysis subsystem (DPAAS) is also developed to effectively acquire the experimental data of concerned locations and obtain the corresponding nominal thermal conductivity under various seepage conditions. Based on these setups, a series of laboratory flume experiments are carried out under controlled velocities and heating powers.

Findings

The plots of recorded temperature rise versus natural logarithm of time allow the calculation of nominal thermal conductivities, and then the seepage velocity monitoring model particular to the experimental setup is successfully established with satisfactory precision.

Research limitations/implications

Considering the complexity of water flow in embankments, a seepage flume that matches the natural system, allowing for larger experimental model scales, various water temperatures, various engineering materials and a wider range of seepage velocities, should be investigated in future.

Practical implications

The combined THW and DTS method provides promising potential in real-time seepage monitoring of embankment dams with the help of the developed DPAAS.

Originality/value

In this work, we performed a flume testing of seepage velocity monitoring platform using optical fiber distributed-temperature sensing for embankments based on the transient hot-wire method. Through the testing of data, the seepage velocity monitoring model particular to the experimental setup was established. The results presented here are very encouraging and demonstrate that the DTS system can be used to monitor the temperature and the seepage factors in field applications.
Novel method for hyperspectral unmixing: fuzzy c-means unmixing
Authors: Nie Mingyu , Liu Zhi , Li Xiaomei , Wu Qiang , Tang Bo , Xiao Xiaoyan , Sun Yulin , Chang Jun , Zheng Chengyun
Published: April 2016

Purpose

This paper aims to effectively achieve endmembers and relative abundances simultaneously in hyperspectral image unmixing yield. Hyperspectral unmixing, which is an important step before image classification and recognition, is a challenging issue because of the limited resolution of image sensors and the complex diversity of nature. Unmixing can be performed using different methods, such as blind source separation and semi-supervised spectral unmixing. However, these methods have disadvantages such as inaccurate results or the need for the spectral library to be known a priori.

Design/methodology/approach

This paper proposes a novel method for hyperspectral unmixing called fuzzy c-means unmixing, which achieves endmembers and relative abundance through repeated iteration analysis at the same time.

Findings

Experimental results demonstrate that the proposed method can effectively implement hyperspectral unmixing with high accuracy.

Originality/value

The proposed method present an effective framework for the challenging field of hyperspectral image unmixing.