bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Dyes from Enzyme-Mediated Oxidation of Aromatic Amines
Authors: Shaw Stephen D. , Freeman Harold S.
Published: March 2008

This paper characterizes reaction products from the oxidoreductase enzymatic conver sion of aromatic amines to dyes that have an affinity for wool fibers. The dyes are identified with the aid of mass spectrometry, FRIR, 1H-NMR, combustion analysis, and by comparison of experimental and calculated λmax data. The results of these analyses indicate that the dyes are binuclear and trinuclear aromatic compounds, depending on the number of available coupling sites in the precursor molecules and the number of reactants employed in the coupling step. Pathways associated with this enzyme-induced formation of dyes are proposed that involve a two-electron oxidation of 1.4-diamines to electrophilic diimines.
Influence of Fiber Morphology and Yarn Spinning Process on the 3D Loop Shape of Weft Knitted Fabrics in Terms of Roughness and Thickness
Authors: Bueno Marie-Ange , Renner Marc , Nicoletti Nathalie
Published: March 2008

The literature reports the parameters as well as their influence at different levels on the geometric properties of single-jersey fabrics: the main role of stitch length, the medium importance of fabric tightness, the minor influence of yarn physical properties, and the non-influence of the knitting process. This study reveals that even if yarn physical properties and the knitting process have a very small influence on fabric geometric characteristics relative to stitch length and fabric tightness, the effects must not be neglected on fabric roughness and thickness, i.e., the 3D loop shape. Even a very small difference in loop shape can change fabric tactility and quality, and therefore fabric sales. This paper shows experimentally the influence on roughness and thickness of fiber fineness and the yarn spinning process for three different cover factors, i.e., indirectly on the three-dimensional loop shape. In fact, both fiber fineness and the yarn spinning process influence yarn properties and more precisely, bending rigidity. Moreover, the influence of fabric tensile stress during knitting on 3D loop shape properties is discussed. After full relaxation, the loop shape depends on yarn characteristics, stitch length, and tensile stress walewise due to the knitting process. In fact, yarn bending rigidity and the interyarn friction coefficient are very important for loop shape: when bending rigidity decreases and the frictional coefficient increases, tensile stress in the knitting process is more influential.
An Analysis of the Felting Shrinkage of Plain Knitted Wool Fabrics
Authors: Chen Q.H. , Au K.F. , Yuen C.W.M. , Yeung K.W.
Published: March 2008

The effects of loop length, yarn linear density, cover factor, yarn twist, fiber diameter, and anti-felting treatment level on the felting shrinkage of both untreated and DC 109 resin treated plain knit wool fabrics are investigated. The standard laundering cycle, a Woolmark TM 31-5A wash cycle, is used to test felting shrinkage. The relationship between felting shrinkage and all the parameters selected is studied by multiple regression analysis. The results of the investigation show that the treatment with 4% DC 109 resin produces better anti-felting properties. The results of the multiple regression analysis indicate that the major factors affecting felting properties are cover factor and loop length. Furthermore, fiber diameter and yarn twist also have a significant effect on felting properties.
Luminescence and Mechanical Properties of Photoluminescent Core Bicomponent Fibers
Authors: Shim E. , Pourdeyhimi B. , Little T.J.
Published: March 2008

Photoluminescent fibers with a sheath-core morphology are produced to impart good mechanical properties. Both photoluminescent and mechanical properties are examined for these fibers with respect to photoluminescent pigment concentrations in the core, draw ratios, and polymer types. The photoluminescent pigment concentration in the core of the fibers directly influences their luminance intensity and afterglow properties as well as their mechanical properties.
Twist Determination in Single Yarns
Authors: Bellinson H.R.
Published: March 2008

Discussion of the method of determining twist in single yarns by the method of untwisting and retwisting to the same twist in the opposite direction, and description of an instrument, to be used with a twist counter, which indicates the end-point by measuring length. The instru ment consists of a pendulum operating in conjunction with a photronic cell, and the end-point is signaled by a buzzer. Such twist determinations become semi-automatic when done on a motor-driven twist counter.
Technical Evaluation of Textile Finishing Treatments
Authors: Winn Lelia J. , Schwarz Edward R.
Published: March 2008

The nature and use of the Kendall coefficients of rank correlation and of concordance are presented with details of the methods of computa tion involved. They are found to be superior to the Spearman coefficient previously used both as a matter of convenience and of statistics. This discussion is given in anticipation of the papers immediately following in this series which will make frequent use of the Kendall rating system.
Textile Materials and the Time Factor
Authors: Leaderman Herbert
Published: March 2008

Some relations between stress, strain, and time in high mole cular weight organic materials are discussed. In the light of these relations a better interpretation can be given to the conventional stress-strain test than is possible in terms of the mechanical proper ties of metals.

The properties of primary creep, secondary creep, swelling and thermo-recovery, and mechanical conditioning which are found in long-chain substances are discussed in detail, together with some results that have been obtained on silk and rayon.
Direct Processing of Whole Cotton
Authors: Holroyd George C. , Cameron Frank K.
Published: March 2008

Cellulose nitrates can be prepared from whole cotton without intermediate pulping. Cellulose acetates can be prepared from whole cotton but more readily from a high alpha-cellulose pulp. For cellulose ethers it appears neeessary to prepare first a pulp.
Benefit From Research
Authors: Strang Peter M.
Published: March 2008

Textile research is easy to discuss, but difficult to under take. The object of this paper is to give a better realiza tion of the problems confronting research in the textile industry, to indicate why research has not produced ex tensive results for textiles in the past, and to show what research-if properly organized—can accomplish for the textile industry.
Healthy Research Competition
Authors: Woolf Douglas G.
Published: March 2008

"As a scientist it seems to me that it is vitally important that we keep a number of competing groups busy in the field of both pure and applied science in order that we may develop to the maximum the potentialities of our industrial age. These groups must be large enough and powerful enough to have available the resources of mod ern techniques for research and development, but they should be diverse enough and numerous enough so that there is real technological and scientific competition."
Technological and Industrial Trends
Authors: Soule Roland P.
Published: March 2008

This is the second of two articles which present an abstract of an address by Dr. Roland P. Soule, delivered before the January meeting of the Industrial Research Institute. In the first article, which appeared in the previous issue of TEXTILE RESEARCH, Dr. Soule out lined changes which have been taking place in research and technology and discussed the impact of these changes on corporate profits and corporate policies. A simile was drawn between the life cycle of a typical industrial product and that of a human being: "Corporate profits can no more be per petuated without new products than family names can be perpetuated with out new children."

Reprints of these two articles bound in pamphlet form will be available on request from Textile Research Insti tute, Inc., 10 East 40th St., New York 16, N. Y.
Oxygen Balance in Hydrogen Peroxide Bleaching
Authors: Simon S.A. , Drelich Arthur
Published: March 2008

An experimental procedure for securing an oxygen balance is given using a typi cal bleach formula with cotton. Data are graphically presented showing decom position of peroxide, evolution of oxygen, and consumption of oxygen as func tions of time. Oxygen balance is suggested as a parameter for evaluating bleaching systems. It is indicated that oxygen balance data in conjunction with data obtain able by other known tests can provide an insight into bleaching otherwise not obtainable.
Staining of Viscose Rayon Cross Sections
Authors: Hermanst P.H.
Published: March 2008

If short cuttings of viscose fibers are exposed to solutions of certain dyes like Solophenyl Fast Blue Green BL and Sky Blue FF it is seen that the skin resists penetration of the dye for a considerable length of time, whereas the dye diffuses readily into the core from the fiber end. This phenomenon, designated as "anisotropic diffusion," gives a ready explanation of the selective staining of the core in fiber sections by a number of dyes.

The penetration x of the dye into the core with time t has been measured for one dye and a number of fiber samples; it conforms to the equation xt-½ = constant. The speed of penetra tion varies over several orders of magnitude in the samples investigated, including ordinary tire cord and Lilienfeld rayons.

After a very long time at room temperature, and much faster if the temperature is raised sufficiently, the dye also penetrates into the skin. At equilibrium absorption both, skin and core become stained; often, not always, depending on the dye used, the core remains stained to a darker shade than the skin when either sections or fibers are dyed.

Attention is drawn to the striking fact that Bordeaux Extra is an example of a dye which readily penetrates the skin, although it is also a tetrazo dye with almost the same molecular size as Sky Blue FF, which does not.

In sections dyed to equilibrium, the dye readily bleeds off the core on washing with water, whereas the skin remains stained. This provides an easy means to obtain selective staining of the skin with a number of dyes.

The Victoria Blue technique for selective skin dyeing disclosed by Morehead and Sisson is discussed and a much simplified modification of it is recommended.

The differential staining of viscose and cuprammonium rayon with dye mixtures such as Neocarmin W is explained by the absence of a skin in cuprammonium rayon. It is shown that Lilienfeld-process rayon also has a skin exhibiting similar properties towards dyes as ordinary viscose rayon.
Phosphorylated Cotton Cellulose as a Cation-Exchange Material
Authors: Jurgens Julian F. , Reid J. David , Guthie John D.
Published: March 2008

It was found that phosphorylated cotton cellulose made by the phosphoric acid-urea method has a high cation-exchange capacity and when used in the form of a coarse fabric it shows good now characteristics in the calcium-hydrogen cycle. Its cation-exchange capacity increases with increasing phosphorus content and at a phosphorus content of about 5 percent the cation- exchange capacity reaches about 1,000 milliequivalents per kilogram. It is possible that specialized uses may be found for phosphorylated cotton cellulose, especially in the fabric form.
Compressional Behavior of Textile Materials
Authors: Finch Rogers B.
Published: March 2008

The description of an instrument to measure the compressional characteristics of textile materials at a constant rate of compression and recovery, utilizing the high speed and sensitive response characteristics of a resistance-wire strain gage cantilever load cell, is given. It employs a high-speed, sensitive, rectilinear, electronic recorder in conjunction with the strain gages in an amplified and rectified A.C. Wheatstone bridge. Reversal of the direction of travel of the deforming foot is obtained by use of manual- or limit-switch controlled magnetic clutches. A wide range of load scales and traveling foot speeds may be obtained. Response curves are given for a variety of textile materials to indicate their behavior characteristics and illustrate the many ways in which the instrument may be employed.
An Investigation of the Relationship Between Polymer Structure and Mechanical Properties
Authors: Stein Richard S. , Tobolsky Arthur V.
Published: March 2008

Much progress in the understanding of the mechanical properties of high polymeric substances has been made in the past few years. The theory of the mechanical properties of rubberlike systems has been developed by Guth, James, Gee, Treloar, and others; those of fiberlike materials have been studied by Mark, Harris, Eyring, Halsey, and others; and, also, a theory for the double refraction of these materials has been developed by Kuhn and Treloar. In this paper some of these developments are critically reviewed and correlated. The general problems involved in specifying the viscoelastic properties of a polymer are considered and the role of the prevailing theories within this framework is discussed.

The application of the technique of simultaneous measurement of stress and birefringence for time-dependent behavior of these systems is considered. It is shown that through its use the mechanical behavior of complex systems may be resolved into more fundamental contributions. The method is applied in an experimental survey of the mechanicat-optical properties of ma terials varying in nature from ideal rubbers to polycrystalline plastics.
Influence of Fibrous Structure of Rayon on Its Swelling and Density, II
Authors: Elöd Egon , Fröhlich H.G.
Published: March 2008

Differences in the microstructures of viscose rayon fibers, especially the differences between the outer and inner layers in fibers of one type, constitute the subject of this investigation. Layers are progressively removed by chemical action. The density and extent of swelling in water are measured before and after each removal. In this second paper of the series, the method itself is explained in some detail, with a view toward a better insight into the proper interpretation of the results.
Interpretation of the Mechanical Behavior of Rayon
Authors: Hermanne L. , Lindsley Charles H.
Published: March 2008

The author of this paper is head of the Central Textile Laboratory of Fabelta ( Union des Fabriques Belges de Textiles Artificiels). The Fabelta group includes all of the Belgian rayon and staple fiber mills. Several interesting points of view which may be new to many of our readers are presented. For example, the concept of the micro-Brownian movement of the cellulose chains in the amorphous regions, the thermodynamic point of view, and the equation of state for rayon.—Editor
An Improved Multipurpose Abrasion Tester and Its Application for the Evaluation of the Wear Resistance of Textiles
Authors: Stoll R.G.
Published: March 2008

On the basis of a systematic consideration of the mechanics of fabric wear and abrasion and extensive experimentation with various test methods and machines an improved multi purpose abrasion tester has been developed under the research program of the Quartermaster Corps. This work was carried out jointly by the Quartermaster Textile Materials Engineering Laboratory and the Textile Section of the National Bureau of Standards. The apparatus is capable of quantitatively measuring resistance to flat-, edge-, and flex-abrasion under carefully controlled conditions, producing macro- and micro-wear patterns which are the same as those obtained in actual wear. Materials tested in the machine are abraded to an endpoint which is quantitatively defined and independent of individual judgment. Deviations in test results due to the machine are insignificant compared to the deviation of the samples themselves. A cor relation has been found to exist between accelerated combat-wear data and results obtained on the new tester.
The Place of Research in Textile Colleges
Authors: Fox Kenneth R.
Published: March 2008

The following article is the text of an address delivered by the author at the Anglo-American Conference on Textile Education held in Buxton, England, October 29-30, 1949. It is printed in the JOURNAL because of reader interest in the pro grams being conducted in the several textile colleges, especially as they relate to textile research.—Editor.
A Simple Quantitative Test for the Felting of Wool Top
Authors: Bogaty Herman , Frishman Daniel , Sookne Arnold M. , Harris Milton
Published: March 2008

A simple, rapid procedure for evaluating the feltability of wool in the form of top is pre sented. The method consists of subjecting a sliver to controlled wet mechanical action, and measuring its change in length. It yields results which correlate well with the shrinkage during laundering of garments made from the top; the method thus provides a useful tool for con trolling the application of some chemical shrink-resistant treatments in the mill. In addition, this method shows promise of usefulness as a tool for investigating the nature of felting.
Moisture Determination in Textiles by Electrical Meters: Part IV
Authors: Whitwell John C. , Bowen Carol F. , Tonert Richard K.
Published: March 2008

Previous studies of the precision of various types of electrical moisture meters [8-10] are extended to include meters for sheet materials. The experimental results are analyzed in a manner similar to that previously used and the techniques are extended to cover position and tension effects which could not be covered practically with the bulk materials previously used.

The analysis of precision indicates the following: the instrument which is applicable to continuously moving sheets, such as warps or fabric, has a precision equal to that obtainable from ovens; the instrument in which the sample to be tested is clamped between the electrodes is approximately twice as precise as ovens.

Precautions in the interpretation of these results are indicated.
The Kinetics of Wool Dyeing
Authors: Alexander P. , Hudson R.F.
Published: March 2008

It is shown that the rate controlling mechanism of dyeing wool with the simple acid dye Acid Orange II can be diffusion through an unstirred film of liquid or diffusion through the fiber. At low concentrations of dye, the diffusion of dye through an unstirred film of liquid is the slower of the two processes, whatever the degree of agitation. At higher concentrations of dye, the rate controlling step changes from diffusion through liquid film to diffusion through solid when the stirring of the solution is increased beyond the point at which the reaction becomes stirring- independent and the activation energy, determined from the temperature coefficient, changes from approximately 5 to 13 kg.-cal./mole.

At high concentrations of dye the diffusion of dye through the fiber proceeds from a saturated concentration on the fiber surface, which action can be readily treated quantitatively. At low dye concentrations the diffusion through the unstirred liquid film can also be treated by the simple diffusion law. In the intermediate range of dye concentrations, however, the diffusion into the fiber proceeds from a varying concentration on the fiber surface and is treated on the basis of a semi-empirical relationship.

From consideration of the diffusion coefficient and the apparent energy of activation it is con cluded that dye is not transported through pores, but rather that the swollen fiber behaves like a gel and diffusion occurs by displacement of peptide molecules.
Statistical Quality Control at Work in a Cotton Mill
Authors: Rudnick E.S.
Published: March 2008

In this article, the steps taken in setting up a quality control system are discussed. These include preliminary investigations, general analyses of variance, collection of populations of data, determination of sample size, setting of control limits, use of control charts, and various statisti cal comparisons. For each of these, common statistical tools have been put to practical use. The steps used for a three-factor analysis of variance are given in detail.
Mechanical Properties and the Structure of Hair
Authors: Reese Cecil E. , Eyring Henry
Published: March 2008

A simple quantitative method for determining the amount of mechanical strength contributed by the various types of bonds in hair fiber has been developed. The effects of various types of reagents, such as acids, bases, oxidizing agents, and reducing agents, are discussed.

The reaction between various chemical agents and hair fibers has been found to be first- order with respect to the reagent and also with respect to the bonds to be broken. The effect of temperature is discussed. Using the theory of absolute reaction rates, the heats and entropies of activation for the reaction have been calculated.

The rate of diffusion into hair has been considered. Using Fick's second law of diffusion, the diffusion coefficient of hydroxyl ion in hair has been calculated. Also applying the theory of absolute reaction rates, the values for the heat and entropy of activation have been calculated.
The Relation of Length to Other Physical Properties of Cotton Fibers
Authors: Morlier Ora W. , Orr Rollin S. , Grant James N.
Published: March 2008

Results are reported on tests of breaking load and elongation of single fibers at constant specimen length from the length groups of 6 cotton samples. A description is given of the instrument used in these tests. Average weight fineness of the center section of fibers from each length group was determined, and the tenacity and "stiffness" of the fibers were calculated.

A method is described of calculating a single-fiber tenacity "index" for a cotton sample from the tenacity values of 3 modal-length groups. A high correlation is demonstrated between this index and the weighted mean single-fiber tenacity for the whole sample.
A Study of One-Step Conversion of Continuous- Filament Rayon to Spun Yarn
Authors: Cocke Albert K. , Crowe Nancy P. , Woodell Rudolph
Published: March 2008

The character and sources of denier nonuniformities in "direct-spun" yarn were investigated, and the variations were shown to be of two distinct types: long-length variations (10-100 ft. long) that arise from nonrandom breaking of the continuous filaments; and short-length variations (1-3 ft. long) that arise from discontinuous drafting of the broken filaments. The long-length variations, the more important of the two from the standpoint of fabric appearance, were found to result from minor variations in the tow or spinning machine which were greatly magnified by the spinning operation.

A simple modification of the direct spinner, known as the "angled, high-speed apron," was de veloped to control the breaking of the filaments over a short region near the input rolls. This simple change in the path and speed of the apron increased the average length of the broken fila ments; increased the strength, elongation, and long-length uniformity of the yarn; improved the appearance of the fabric; and made possible for the first time the production of uniform, fine-count, direct-spun yarns. In order to be effective, the speed of the angled apron had to exceed a critical value that was shown to depend upon the front-roll speed and the position of the apron within the ratch.
Improvement of Cotton Cloth in Resistance to Soiling and in Ease of Washing
Authors: Utermohlen William P. , Ryan Mary E. , Young Doris O.
Published: March 2008

The general problem of producing resistance to soiling in cotton textiles is presented, and the effects of a number of treatments upon the ease of soil acquisition by cotton cloth and upon the ease of soil removal from the soiled cloth by washing are described. Of the treatments employed, those which altered the electrical charge upon the cloth by introducing acidic groups appeared to have the most favorable general effect in increasing soiling-resistance and ease of soil removal. A partial-acetylation treatment was noticeably effective in increasing resistance to dry soiling.
Sorption of Acid Dyes by Nylon Under Nonequilibrium Conditions
Authors: McGrew F.C. , Sharkey W.H.
Published: March 2008

Nylon filament yarn colored with acid dyes frequently shows unevenness in appearance. In some cases this unevenness can be traced to slight differences in orientation due to uneven drawing. In other cases small changes in the number of amine end-groups in the polymer cause this effect. It has been found that this unevenness can be minimized, and with some colors completely eliminated, by dyeing in a bath so dilute in dye as to be colorless to the eye.
Improvement of Luster of Cotton
Authors: Fourt Lyman , Streicher Pauline
Published: March 2008

Anhydrous ethylamine and solutions of sodium hydroxide both affect the luster of cotton yarns in the same direction as well as having similar effects on properties which indicate de crease of crystallinity, or increase of accessibility of the cellulose. However, the extent of the effect is less for ethylamine, under the conditions examined, with one exception. When the cotton yarn is held at nearly constant length by wrapping on plates, with minimum possibility of mechanical action, the ethylamine treatment has more effect on moisture sorption, though less on luster, than the relatively low degree of mercerization obtained on plates.

Tension or control of length is required to produce luster; treatment by either ethylamine or sodium hydroxide solution without tension decreases the luster. Luster is increased more by mercerizing after the ethylamine treatment than by the ethylamine treatment after merceriz ing, holding the yarn at original length. The stretching of the yarn, which is made possible by a swelling treatment, and the improvement of fiber roundness are more important for high luster than the degree of change of crystallinity of the cellulose. Thus, measures of accessibility, such as "barium number," do not indicate changes in luster primarily, but only indirectly and in limited ranges in which there is definite stretching of the yarn and with the important con dition that final yarn length is constant in the group being compared. In these special cases the accessibility measure can indicate the degree of action of the swelling agent and can parallel the effect on luster.
The Identification of Synthetic Fibers by Their Refractive Indices and Birefringence
Authors: Heyn A.N.J.
Published: March 2008

A simple method is described for the differentiation of synthetic fibers by their refractive indices and birefringence, using the technique of central illumination.
The Measurement of Fabric Thickness
Authors: Seaman R.E.
Published: March 2008

A discussion of the principles underlying the measurement of fabric thickness is presented. The instruments and procedures in current use are outlined, together with their advantages and disadvantages. A procedure based on the one adopted by the British Standards Institute for measuring fabric thickness under low pressures is outlined and recommended. The necessary equipment is discussed, together with the results obtained on over 200 fabrics.
Mechanical Behavior of Nylon Filaments in Torsion
Authors: Hammerle W.G. , Montgomery D.J.
Published: March 2008

The stress relaxation in torsion of 6,6-nylon filament is found to be nearly linear in the logarithm of time over periods from 20 to 20,000 sec. after twisting. On the basis of a generalized Maxwell model the behavior of the filament in free torsional vibration can be predicted from the results of the stress-relaxation experiments. The predictions were tested by experiments with a torsional pendulum whose period was varied from 50 to 400 sec. The angular displacement of the pendu lum is an exponentially damped sinusoid over nearly the entire course of the motion. The ob served dependence of the angular frequency upon the moment of inertia of the bob and the length of the filament agrees within 3 % with the values predicted from the stress-relaxation experiments. The observed and predicted values of the damping constant agree within 13%. The stress relaxa tion in extension also is found to be nearly linear in the logarithm of time over periods from 10 to 2,000 sec. after stretching. Quantitative correlation between torsional properties and extensional properties has not been made because of the complications introduced by the anisotropy of the drawn nylon.
Properties of Apparel Wools
Authors: Evans T.F. , Montgomery D.J.
Published: March 2008

A detailed report is presented on the physical properties of single wool fibers withdrawn from four master samples at various stages of worsted processing. The experimental procedure for sampling and testing is described. The following properties were taken from the force-extension curve: slope in the Hookean region, force at 20% extension, energy for 20% extension, force at break, and extension at break. A study of the correlation of these properties with cross- sectional area was made, and it was observed that at a given station in processing there is no im portant difference between wools of different origin when forces are reduced to stresses by division by the area. The changes in the force-extension properties during processing were found to be definite, but not great. Aging subsequent to certain operations was found to have negligible effect on physical properties except at very low extensions, where crimp recovery with aging occurs in single fibers free from constraints.
The Determination of Microcrystallite Size by the Small-Angle X-Ray Technique in Rayons
Authors: Heyn A.N.J.
Published: March 2008

The scattering of x-rays at small angles by various rayons of high orientation was investi gated at various degrees of swelling.

The occurrence of inflection points or maxima-minima in the scattering curves of these fibers at certain degrees of swelling is explained by interparticle interference in the densely packed condition.

The experimental conditions necessary for a reliable determination of particle size (diameter of microcrystallites) for these fibers are derived from the results obtained, and particle sizes determined by this method are given.
Abrasion Damage of Textile Fibers
Authors: Susich George
Published: March 2008

The inherent abrasion behavior of 14 different textile materials in the form of yarns was investigated. Abrasion was expressed by the abrasion damage, which is the opposite of abra sion resistance. Abrasion damage was measured quantitatively by the fiber fineness (grex) destroyed in flexing around a steel bar under standardized conditions using the Stoll-Quarter master abrasion tester. The abrasion damages were evaluated relative to that of high-tenacity nylon multifilaments. Great differences exist in the abrasion behavior of various textile fibers. The damage of multifilaments increases from nylon to Dacron polyester fiber, viscose, Fortisan, Orlon acrylic fiber, Saran, silk, acetate, and casein, while that of staple yarns increases from nylon to Dacron polyester fiber, cotton, Fibravyl, Dynel, Kuralon, Thermovyl, wool, Orlon acrylic fiber, viscose, and acetate. Staple yarns were always more abraded than corresponding multifilaments. Although high elastic energy of fibers is the main factor preventing inherent abrasion damage, extensibility, yarn surface, and friction must also be taken into account in interpreting the abrasion behavior of various textile fibers.
The Improvement of Luster of Cotton
Authors: Fourt Lyman , Howorth Ruth M. , Rutherford Marjorie B. , Streicher Pauline
Published: March 2008

The entire range of American cotton production has been examined for correlation of luster with other fiber properties over two crop years. This has been possible through the cooperation of the Division of Cotton and other Fiber Crops of the Bureau of Plant Industry, U.S.D.A. which provided the yarns and the fiber data.

Luster is shown to be a varietal characteristic, although also influenced by environmental factors. The strongest correlations are of higher luster with greater length, greater strength, and greater roundness. American-Egyptian types, experimental triple hybrids, and Hopi Acala 50 are each different in the relation of fiber properties to luster. All the rest of the cottons, that is, the main Upland group, whether rain grown or irrigated, or long staple, show a uniform general trend of relationships. This trend of relations offers a guide to both spinners and breeders who may wish to select cotton for greater luster. The selections for luster which are possible within the main crop amount to as much gain in luster as can be obtained by plying.

These results are mainly for natural or raw cotton, but the trends remain generally the same after mercerizing, with a tendency for the most lustrous cottons in the natural state to be the ones which gain most on mercerizing.
A Microscopical Study of the Effects of Some Typical Chemical Environments on the Primary Wall of the Cotton Fiber
Authors: Tripp Verne W. , Moore Anna T. , Rollins Mary L.
Published: March 2008

The topography and structure of the primary wall of the cotton lint fiber are described and illustrated by electron micrographs. The changes in this thin membrane brought about by alkali boil (kiering), hypochlorite and peroxide bleaching, mercerization, acid hydrolysis, and dry heat are shown by means of microscopical examination of isolated pieces of the primary wall after exposure to these environments. The noncellulosic constituents of the wall, which account for a large part of its chemical composition, are progressively removed during alkaline kiering. Excessive conditions of kiering appear to damage the cellulose framework of the wall. Peroxide bleaching is apparently effective in removing the encrusting noncellulosic material, but hypo chlorite alone does not have this effect. Mercerization of the isolated wall induces shrinkage in both longitudinal and transverse directions; the shrinkage increases when the noncellulosic materials are removed from the membrane prior to mercerization. The morphology and struc ture of the wall account for the observed behavior on mercerization, and electron micrographs of the mercerized wall show a shrunken network of cellulose fibrils. The primary wall shows resistance to disintegration by acid hydrolysis, and its fibrillar pattern is preserved intact, after long periods of contact with hot mineral acid. Long periods of heating in air "set" the primary wall in a configuration similar to that which it had on the corrugated surface of the cotton fiber.

The contribution of the primary wall to certain gross properties of the fiber and its behavior during finishing treatments is discussed.
The Structure of Resistant Membranes Isolated from Oxidized Wool
Authors: Fraser R.D.B. , Rogers G.E.
Published: March 2008

Evidence is presented of the nature of the resistant residue obtained from wool oxidized with peracetic acid and extracted with ammonia. The use of gold shadowing and phase contrast in optical microscopy reveals cortical cell membranes, nuclear mem branes, nuclear remnants and resistant fibrils derived from the cortex, and the composite nature of the cuticular sheath.
The Improvement of Luster of Cotton
Authors: Fourt Lyman , Elliott H.J. , Streicher Pauline
Published: March 2008

Luster tends to increase with depth of shade or increasing absorption of light, since this has greater effect on scattering from depth than on front surface reflection. Dyes which form particles on the surface or show more tendency to crock, such as the lake- forming dyes which are attached to cotton by mordants, show less increase in luster. Vat dyes which increase in crystallinity on soaping show a decrease in luster after soaping (even though the general appearance and quality is improved), indicating increased scattering by larger particles.
Stress-Strain Relationships in Yarns Subjected to Rapid Impact Loading
Authors: McCrackin Frank L. , Schiefer Herbert F. , Smith Jack C. , Stone Walter K.
Published: March 2008

The behavior of a yarn specimen, which is fastened at one end to a head mass and at the other end to a small tail mass, is analyzed for longitudinal impact of the specimen at the head. The analysis leads to a basic formula for "limiting breaking velocity," which is a characteristic property of the material and is independent of the dimensions of the specimen. A simple procedure is described for obtaining its value. The values for cotton, nylon, and undrawn nylon yarns tested at room temperature are found to be 130, 228, and 550 m/sec, respectively. The practical application of the limiting break ing velocity to safety engineering is shown by an example on safety lines. Formulas are derived for computing energy to any strain under impact loading and the computed values are found to agree with those obtained from the area under the impact load- extension curves.
Microwave Dielectric Measurements on Single Fibers
Authors: Windle J.J. , Shaw T.M.
Published: March 2008

Microwave techniques which have proved successful at frequencies of 3,000 and 9,300 Mc for the determination of the complex dielectric constant of fiber bundles have been extended to include a frequency of 26,000 Mc, where for the first time measure ments on a single wool fiber have proved to be feasible. Such measurements make it possible to compare directly the results of electrical and mechanical measurements on the same single fiber. In addition, the single-fiber technique has provided a con venient, rapid, and nondestructive method for the determination of the average mass of adjacent 1-cm sections of the fiber along its length. Variations as large as two-fold in mass per unit length are sometimes encountered within a single wool fiber. The occurrence of these variations and their effect upon mechanical measurements are discussed.
The Relation of Single-Fiber to Flat-Bundle Strength and Elongation of Cotton
Authors: Orr Rollin S. , Weiss Louis C. , Grant James N.
Published: March 2008

Seven cotton and one rayon samples were tested at various gage lengths, using the Stelometer. A method of estimating the slip length of fibers in a flat-bundle test is de rived and applied to these data in order to obtain a "corrected" gage length for use in calculating strain at break.

Also, a method similar to that proposed by Platt et al for calculating the maximum possible bundle tenacity from breaking load and elongation at break of single cotton fibers is applied to previous single-fiber tensile data. The resulting derived values of bundle tenacity and per cent elongation are compared with measurements made on fiber bundles at equivalent gage lengths. The flat-bundle values of tenacity and elongation, measured with the Stelometer, show a good correlation with the values measured on single fibers.
The Application of Electron Microscopy to Synthetic Fibers
Authors: Scott R.G. , Ferguson A.W.
Published: March 2008

A review of present electron microscope techniques used in the study of synthetic fibers is presented. These include surface replication and ultrathin sectioning. A new method is introduced in which the region to be studied is made insoluble either by chemicals or 60 kv. electrons and then the unaffected region is removed by solvents. The application of this technique to surface or internal fiber structure is reported.
Letters to the Editor
Authors: Levy Joseph B. , Dillon J.H.
Published: March 2008

Short communications in the form of Letters to the Editor are intended to provide prompt publication of significant new research results and to permit an exchange of views on papers previously published in the JOURNAL. These communications are not submitted to formal re view as are research papers, and the editors do not assume any share of the author's responsi bility for the information given or the opinions expressed. When work previously published in the JOURNAL is the subject of critical comment, the authors of the original paper are given an opportunity to submit a reply, which will be published concurrently when possible.
Accessibility of Various Cellulose Preparations from Jute
Authors: Dilip Kumar Roy Choudhury
Published: March 2008

Accessibility towards 2.4 N hydrochloric acid at 100° C. under nitrogen atmosphere has been determined for various cellulose preparations from jute. With the results of viscosity measurement in cuprammonium hydroxide solution of the hydrolyzed and unhydrolyzed material, leveling-off degree of polymerization has been determined and hence crystallite length calculated. The present study shows the effect of hemicellulose present in cellulose preparations on the accessibility and leveling-off degree of polymeri zation and hence on the crystallite length due to different treatments of jute cellulose.
Russian and Satellitè Research and Development in the Field of Synthetic Fibers
Authors: Laible Roy C. , Weiner Louis I.
Published: March 2008

Man-made fiber developments in the Soviet orbit are discussed in relation to Western achievements. At least three of the fibers—Enant, a nylon 7, Ftorlon, a fluorine-con taining copolymer, and Vinitron, a combination of nitrocellulose with chlorinated poly vinyl chloride—have no counterparts in the United States or Great Britain.

Other fibers, such as Nitron, Lavsan, Anid, Steelon, and Khlorin are so closely related to Orlon, 1 Dacron,1 nylon 66, nylon 6, and Pe Ce2 respectively that the degree of originality in their development cannot be ascertained. East German experimental work on hollow fihers and the conjectural Latvian use of 2-methyl piperazine for the preparation of new polyamides show the possible contribution of the satellite countries to the total Soviet effort. The Russian scientific climate is briefly discussed to show the increasing effort in the field of new synthetic fibers that may be expected from Russia in the future.
Kinetic Studies of the Wool-Water System
Authors: Watt I.C.
Published: March 2008

Studies have been made of the sorption of water by wool fibers, after changes of the external water vapor pressure, by following the weight changes of the fibers. The sorption kinetics are dependent on the size of the concentration change and the initial regain of the wool. For low regains, 0-2.5%, sorption is Fickian with a concentration- dependent diffusion coefficient. At 35° C. and zero regain the diffusion coefficient D0 = 1.0 × 10-10 cm.2/sec. and the activation energy of diffusion is > 11 kcal./mole. For concentrations above 2.5% regain, a portion of the water vapor uptake on absorption occurs by a non-Fickian mechanism; the relative contributions of the Fickian and nbn- Fickian mechanisms to the total uptake vary with the initial regain.
Friction Studies on Caprolan1 Filament Yarn
Authors: Schlatter Carl , Demas Harry J.
Published: March 2008

This paper is presented in three parts. Part I consists of a discussion of the parameters which affect friction and a description of the instrument used for the fric tionitl studies presented in Parts II and III.

Part II is a study of the effect of finish composition and amount of finish on both yarn-to-metal and yarn-to-yarn friction. The results are analyzed from the point of view of the mechanism of operation of the finish film, and a correlation with some of the factors which influence yarn friction has been attempted.

Part III shows the effect of yarn speed, diameter of friction pins, surface contours of pins, and angle of contact with the pin on the friction of 200/16 filament yarn with a commercial-tyhe finish. Here, the results have been explained on the basis of hydro dynamic lubrication between yarn and pins. This concept explains the enormous effect of surface smoothness on friction as well as the effect of pin diameter and of contact angle. Through the concept of hydrodynamic lubrication, it is also shown that the viscosity-temperature relationship of the lubricant is an important factor in shaping the friction-speed curve of the textile yarns.
A Review of Methods of Purifying and Analyzing Water-Soluble Dyes
Authors: Giles Charles H. , Greczek Janusz J.
Published: March 2008

Published methods of purification and determination of water-soluble dyes are criti cally surveyed, and some new experimental work is described. Very satisfactory puri fication can often be achieved by simple recrystallization from water or water-solvent mixtures, or by extraction with ethanol-water mixture, but where extreme purity is essential the sodium acetate salting-out method, perhaps followed by ion exchange, is sometimes preferable. Ion exchange by itself is often effective, but has disadvantages.

The simplest analytical procedure for acid dyes is a recent method of titration with benzidine hydrochloride, but this has some limitations. More widely applicable, though requiring special apparatus, are the classical titanous chloride reduction method and new methods based on oxidation with potassium dichromate in acid solution. The latter are more rapid than the titanous chloride method, and the reagents are stable.
Application and Properties of a Durable Wash-and- Wear Finish for Cotton
Authors: Foster S.H. , Tashlick I.
Published: March 2008

A report is presented on a new cellulose cross-linking agent that is completely resistant to chlorine and durable to all types of laundering.

A comparison of the performance of this compound, bis(β-hydroxyethyl) sulfone, with the more conventional type cross-linker is made.

The problems posed by various conditions of laundering are also discussed as they affect fabric performance.
The Measurement of Molecular Orientation in Polyethylene Terephthalate Filaments by X-Ray Diffraction
Authors: Farrow G. , Bagley J.
Published: March 2008

An x-ray method has been developed to measure the over-all crystalline orientation in polyethylene terephthalate fibers. Coupled with optical birefringence studies which measure total orientation, it allows an estimate to be made of the noncrystalline orienta tion. It has been shown, for yarns drawn under the same conditions as these fibers. that it is the noncrystalline orientation which changes with draw ratio, the crystalline orientation remaining approximately constant with draw ratio and heat treatment.

The results are also discussed in rotation to the theories on strain-induced crystalli zation in drawn polyethylene terephthalate fibers.

1 Palmer, R. P., I.C.I. (Plastics Division), unpublished work.

2 Knapp, P. E., I.C.I. (Fibres Division) unpublished work.

3 Howells, E. R., I.C.I. (Plastics Division), unpublished work.
Moisture Transfer in Textile Systems, Part II
Authors: Woodcock A.H.
Published: March 2008

While the moisture permeability index and insulation value define the heat transfer characteristics of fabric systems under equilibrium conditions, such conditions do not always occur. Moisture may accttmulate in clothing during periods of activity due to unevaporated sweat or sweat which has evaporated from the skin and recondensed in cooler layers of clothing, or to moisture which is absorbed by the textile fibers. Upon cessation of activity and sweating, this moisture accumulated in the clothing will evap orate and produce undesired cooling or "after-exercise chill." A special thermostated hot plate is described which is used to measure rates of heat transfer through fabrics before, during, and after periods of simulated sweating. Typical curves are given for absorptive and nonabsorptive systems measured under conditions in which no excess moisture secretion or recondensation takes place. An interpretation of these curves is suggested. It is shown that with an absorptive textile the after-exercise chill is large and persists for about two hours but with a nonabsorptive type it is negligible.
A Possible Source of Error in the Determination of Fiber Length of Wool Tops
Authors: Faure P.K.
Published: March 2008

Attention is drawn to an error which may occur in the use of the W.I.R.A. Fiber Diagram Machine for determining the average fiber length of wool tops. This seems to occur mainly when short fibers are absent from the top and is manifested by obtaining galvanometer deflections in excess of 100%. A method of correction is suggested. The cause is ascribed to the possibility of the free ends of the fibers being able to bend away from the parallel direction of the general mass of fibers.