bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Unusual Early-Onset Huntington's Disease
Authors: Vargas Antonio P. , Carod-Artal Francisco J. , Bomfim Denise , Vázquez-Cabrera Carolina , Dantas-Barbosa Carmela
Published: October 2007

Huntington's disease is an autosomal dominant progressive neurodegenerative disorder characterized by involuntary movements, cognitive decline, and behavioral disorders leading to functional disability. In contrast to patients with adult onset, in which chorea is the major motor abnormality, children often present with spasticity, rigidity, and significant intellectual decline associated with a more rapidly progressive course. An unusual early-onset Huntington's disease case of an 11-year-old boy with severe hypokinetic/rigid syndrome appearing at the age of 2.5 years is presented. Clinical diagnosis was confirmed by polymerase chain reaction study of the expanded IT-15 allele with a compatible size of 102 cytosine-adenosine-guanosine repeats. L-Dopa mildly ameliorated rigidity, bradykinesia, and dystonia. We conclude that Huntington's disease should be included in the differential diagnoses of regressive syndromes of early childhood. ( J Child Neurol 2003; 18:429—432).
Topical Review: Developmental Screening
Authors: Rydz David , Shevell Michael I. , Majnemer Annette , Oskoui Maryam
Published: October 2007

An estimated 5 to 10% of the pediatric population has a developmental disability. The current strategy to identify these children is through developmental surveillance, a continuous procedure in which the health professional observes the infant, takes a developmental history, and elicits any concerns that the caregiver might have. However, identification of delayed children is ineffective when based solely on routine surveillance. A necessary adjunct is developmental screening: the process of systematically identifying children with suspected delay who need further assessment. Screening tests greatly improve the rate of identification. With the advent of intervention programs and the support of organizations such as the American Academy of Pediatrics, the topic of developmental screening is a timely and essential one. This review aims to describe the properties of screening tests, to evaluate the available tools for developmental screening while providing a representative sample of the currently available developmental tests, and, finally, to evaluate the efficacy of intervention programs, a needed prerequisite to justify screening. ( J Child Neurol 2005;20:4—21).
Board Certification in Child Neurology and Neurology: Cohort Study
Authors: Juul Dorthea , Percy Alan K. , Kenton Edgar J. , Scheiber Stephen C.
Published: October 2007

This study followed the progress of a cohort of child neurology and neurology graduates who sought certification by the American Board of Psychiatry and Neurology (ABPN). The 211 candidates were recent graduates when they initiated the certification process in October 1994, and 92% of them have achieved certification. First-attempt performances on the Part I and Part II examinations were related; 62% of those certified passed both on their first attempts. Of those who were certified, 24% also achieved certification in at least one additional ABPN specialty (psychiatry) or subspecialty (clinical neurophysiology, neurodevelopmental disabilities, and pain medicine). Overall, it was estimated that 82% of the 1994 child neurology and neurology graduates sought ABPN certification, and of these, 82% were successful. ( J Child Neurol 2005;20:25—27).
Epilepsy, Electroencephalographic Abnormalities, and Regression in Children With Autism
Authors: Canitano Roberto , Luchetti Anna , Zappella Michele
Published: October 2007

The association of epilepsy and autism is recognized, and it has been reported at a percentage that varies between 8 and 42%, depending on age and diagnostic criteria. One third of autistic children undergo a regression of language and behavior between 2 and 3 years, and epileptiform abnormalities and epilepsy can be concomitant in an undetermined percentage of them. The aim of this study was to investigate the prevalence of epilepsy and paroxysmal abnormalities in a group of children with autism and to determine the percentage of regression course in this group. Forty-six patients with autism (mean age 7.8 ± 2.7 years; 34 boys and 12 girls) were consecutively examined, and clinical evaluation, assessment, and electroencephalographic (EEG) recordings were performed in all of them. Thirty-five percent showed paroxysmal abnormalities and epilepsy, 22% had only paroxysmal abnormalities without seizures, and 13% of the children suffered from epilepsy. Sixty-five percent had a normal EEG. No difference in regression rate was observed between patients with paroxysmal abnormalities and epilepsy and those with a normal EEG and without seizures. In the study group, the prevalence of epilepsy was in the low range of individuals with autism, and different types of epilepsy were observed. Autism with regression was not influenced by paroxysmal abnormalities and epilepsy. ( J Child Neurol 2005;20:27—31).
Macrocephaly, Corpus Callosum Morphology, and Autism
Authors: Rice Sara A. , Bigler Erin D. , Cleavinger Howard B. , Tate David F. , Sayer Jamie , McMahon William , Ozonoff Sally , Lu Jeff , Lainhart Janet E.
Published: October 2007

Although the cause of autism is undetermined, a general consensus has been that some type of early aberrant neural development underlies the disorder. Given the increased prevalence of macrocephaly in autism, one theory of abnormal neural development implicates early brain growth resulting in larger brain and head size in autism. Surface area measurements of the midsagittal section of the corpus callosum can be used as an index of neural development and white-matter integrity because the corpus callosum is the major white-matter structure that interconnects the two cerebral hemispheres. The purpose of this study was to obtain corpus callosum surface area, shape, and contour in a sample of non—mentally retarded autistic subjects with macrocephaly ( n = 12) and compare them with those of matched ( n = 8), typically developing control subjects with benign macrocephaly. No significant differences were found in surface area, shape, or contour between groups, nor did corpus callosum surface area relate to measures of IQ or picture vocabulary. These findings suggest no unique difference in overall regional corpus callosum surface area in autism with macrocephaly. ( J Child Neurol 2005;20:34—41).
Neuroprotective Effects of Brain-Derived Neurotrophic Factor (BDNF) on Hearing in Experimental Pneumococcal Meningitis
Authors: Li Ling , Shui Quan-Xiang , Li Xianzhen
Published: October 2007

Bacterial meningitis is still one of the most common causes of acquired profound sensorineural deafness in children despite antibiotic treatment. We investigated the neuroprotective effects of brain-derived neurotrophic factor on hearing function in experimental bacterial meningitis. We implanted stainless steel tubes into both cerebral ventricles of Sprague-Dawley rats aged 21 days. Bacterial meningitis was induced by inoculating a strain of serotype III Streptococcus pneumoniae into the cisterna magna. Six micrograms per day of brain-derived neurotrophic factor (groups 1 and 3) or albumin (groups 2 and 4) was injected into the cerebral ventricles 24 hours after or before infection, respectively, for a duration of 7 days. Additionally, all rats received antibiotic subcutaneous treatment starting 24 hours after infection for 7 days. Brainstem auditory evoked potentials were recorded 24 hours before and 24 hours after infection and after 7 days of treatment with brain-derived neurotrophic factor or placebo and antibiotics, respectively, to determine hearing threshold. Our results showed that the hearing thresholds of animals in each group increased significantly 24 hours after infection compared with the results recorded 24 hours before infection ( P < .01). After 7 days of treatment with brain-derived neurotrophic factor, brainstem auditory evoked potential responses recurred in 16 ears when stimulated at 75 dB hearing level in groups 1 and 3. Their hearing thresholds significantly decreased compared with the control group 2 ( P < .05) and group 4 ( P < .01). However, 13 of 14 ears absent brainstem auditory evoked potential responses could still not be identified at 75 dB hearing level in control groups 2 and 4. The improvement of the hearing thresholds in group 3 (treated before infection) was greater than that of group 1 (treated after infection) ( P < .05), but there was no significant difference found between the control groups before and after infection ( P > .05). Our study supports the hypothesis that the administration of exogenous brain-derived neurotrophic factor can be effective in preventing or treating hearing loss following bacterial meningitis. ( J Child Neurol 2005;20:51—56).
Magnetic Resonance Imaging Findings and Novel Mutations in GM1 Gangliosidosis
Authors: Gururaj Aithala , Sztriha László , Hertecant Josef , Johansen Johan G. , Georgiou Theodoros , Campos Yvan , Drousiotou Anthi , d'Azzo Alessandra
Published: October 2007

Two unrelated children and their siblings of Arab origin were diagnosed as having GM1 gangliosidosis on the basis of clinical features and markedly low levels of β-galactosidase. The T2-weighted magnetic resonance images of the brain revealed certain characteristic features, including delayed myelination and abnormal appearance of the subcortical white matter, internal capsule, and basal ganglia. Their mutation analysis showed two novel mutations, which have not been described in an Arabic population. ( J Child Neurol 2005;20:57—60).
Residual Motor Control and Cortical Representations of Function Following Hemispherectomy: Effects of Etiology
Authors: de Bode Stella , Firestine Ann , Mathern Gary W. , Dobkin Bruce
Published: October 2007

Fifteen posthemispherectomy children were examined to assess residual motor function of the paretic side using the 74-point Fugl-Meyer Assessment of Motor Recovery scale. The degree of residual motor control differed for upper and lower extremities, with hand function being most severely impaired. Posthemispherectomy motor outcomes also differed as a function of etiology: cortical dysplasia, perinatal infarct, and Rasmussen's encephalitis. Children whose intractable seizures resulted from perinatal middle cerebral artery stroke demonstrated the most spared motor function. To detect cortical areas that represented motor control of the hemiparetic side, we focused on voluntary control of the affected lower extremity. Seven of our patients were able to carry out a foot dorsiflexion paradigm during functional magnetic resonance imaging, and these results were compared with activations found in normal controls. All children showed activations in the sensorimotor network ipsilateral to the affected side. The perinatal infarct group demonstrated greater activity in the cingulate cortex, whereas the Rasmussen's encephalitis group had significant activations in the insula, suggesting etiology-specific differences in reorganization. These findings are discussed in the framework of our understanding of mechanisms of cortical plasticity in the injured brain and its relevance to neurologic rehabilitation. We suggest that imaging techniques are important tools in identifying cortical regions underlying functional reorganization. Furthermore, detection of such areas might become a basis for specific training promoting the optimal reorganization of cortical networks to enhance motor control. ( J Child Neurol 2005;20:64—75).
Neurogenic Arthrogryposis Multiplex Congenita and Velopharyngeal Incompetence Associated With Chromosome 22q11.2 Deletion
Authors: Castro-Gago Manuel , Iglesias-Meleiro José María , Blanco-Barca Manuel Oscar , Grande-Seijo Mónica , Barros-Angueira Francisco , Eirís-Puñal Jesús
Published: October 2007

We report a case of neurogenic arthrogryposis multiplex congenita and velopharyngeal incompetence in association with a chromosome 22q11.2 deletion in a 5-month-old boy, the only child of a nonconsanguineous couple without relevant antecedents. Specifically, polymerase chain reaction amplification of microsatellite markers revealed a noninherited microdeletion in position D22S306. This phenotype has not been reported previously in association with chromosome 22q11.2 deletions, and these findings raise the possibility that at least some cases of neurogenic arthrogryposis multiplex congenita might be due to genetic defects of this type. ( J Child Neurol 2005;20:76—78).
Home Care Work: A Legacy of Slavery in U. S. Health Care
Authors: Donovan Rebecca
Published: October 2007

The home health care industry is emerging as a significant employer of lowincome and minority women in the United States. Many of the new nonprofessional jobs, such as home attendant and home health aide, are structured within subemployment systems that keep wages low and benefits few or nonexistent. This article suggests that the current conditions have historical roots in U. S. slavery and the persistent segregation of black women in work roles as domestic servants in private households. Data are presented from a survey of home care workers in New York City, and the implications for social work practice are discussed.
Privacy Rights of Adolescent Women: Counseling Dilemmas
Authors: Churchill Sallie R. , Croxton Tom A. , Fellin Phillip
Published: October 2007

A review of legal perspectives on the competence and rights of adolescents points to special counseling dilemmas that arise in serving young women. Attention is directed toward professional social work responses that would enhance the privacy rights of adolescent women.
The Politics of Equality for Women
Authors: Atcherson Esther
Published: October 2007

The cultural assumption that men should provide leadership in private and public affairs, with its implications about political and social power, has been under challenge. In the past few decades, a national consensus has pressed for action to undo the effects of sex discrimination via governors' commissions, federal and state legislation, and executive orders. Visible gains have been made in women's access to education, broader employment opportunities, entrepreneurial capital and credit, pay equity, and participation in politics. Women have learned to recognize the "muscle" inherent in being at least half the population.
Life Scripts as Sources of Reward for Women Executive Directors
Authors: Bailey Darlyne , Neilsen Eric H.
Published: October 2007

Twenty-five female and twelve male executive directors of social service agencies were interviewed about their early childhoods, job histories, the current rewards obtained from their jobs, and their criteria for effective social service leadership. An exploratory analysis of these data revealed a clear resonance between values and scripts learned early in life and intrinsic rewards experienced on the job. The linkage was especially pronounced for the female executive directors in relation to the themes of service to others. The implications of this linkage are discussed for social service leadership and leadership in general.
The Social Service Needs of Elderly Black Women
Authors: Crawley Brenda
Published: October 2007

Although the pauperization of women reaches across all age groups, it especially hits elderly black women, one half of whom are poor or marginally poor. Services can be used to enhance the survival or quality of life of aged persons, but, in recent years, services to the aged have been reduced as a result of fiscal retrenchment policies. The study presented in this article examined the self-reported social service needs of black women, aged 60 and older. It found that some of the services that are essential to the maintenance of independent living and for assistance in obtaining services have been cut back as a result of these policies.
Homeless Women
Authors: Anderson Sandra C. , Boe Tome , Smith Sharon
Published: October 2007

This study of 190 homeless women in Portland, Oregon, found that most homeless women are young, have minor children, and are mobile. The majority have a history of physical or sexual abuse, many are in poor health, 18 percent have been in a mental hospital, and one-fourth are alcoholic. The implications of these findings for policies and practice are discussed.
Rural Attitudes Toward Women, Work, and Welfare
Authors: Davis Laura F.
Published: October 2007

This article explores public attitudes toward work requirements for welfare mothers in one rural state— Wyoming—on the basis of a public opinion survey conducted in fall 1986. It investigates whether women who receive welfare should work, whether the age of children should be considered in determining who should work, what kinds of jobs women should be required to take, and whether the government should support poor mothers' pursuit of a college education. The article discusses results in terms of three values in rural culture: work, family, and education.
Fashion as a Tool of World War II: A Case Study Supporting the SI Theory
Authors: Buckland Sandra Stansbery
Published: October 2007

Through a historical case study of Akron, Ohio during World War II, a story emerged of how retailers used their fashion advertisements to influence women to take factory jobs in war industries. Akron, Ohio served as a case study because it had three nationally linked department stores, a major newspaper, and the city's war industries were the nation's second largest employer of women during World War II. Because voluntary recruitment efforts were successful, the government did not act on its planned national draft for work that would have included women. As the culture negotiated women's role in the marketplace, pants came to symbolize women's participation in the war effort. The appearance and adoption of pants offers support for the SI theory of fashion.
Am I A Feminist? Reflections on Feminism in Teaching and Research
Authors: O'Neal Gwendolyn S.
Published: October 2007

This essay exposes my personal musing about notions of feminism, their relevance to my life, ideas, ideals, teaching philosophy, and beliefs about the nature of reality.
Personal Vision and Feminist Epistemologies from a (Gay) Male Standpoint: Implications for 21st Century Textiles and Apparel Scholars
Authors: Jacob John
Published: October 2007

This paper emphasizes that feminism is both intellectually and politically relevant to textiles and apparel, a field traditionally dominated by women but also steeped in the home economics tradition, which is sometimes associated with domesticity and women's subservience. Since feminists value personal experience as a valid way of knowing, I use a personal narrative to articulate the site from which this discussion materializes and stress the connections between experience and knowing. The personal narrative also traces my intellectual development, conveys voice and shows that knowledge and the standpoints that knowledge makes possible are emergent and given to almost constant change.
Measurement Specifications for Manufacturers' Prototype Bodies
Authors: Workman Jane E. , Lentz Elizabeth S.
Published: October 2007

The objective of this study was to examine information on body measurement specifications for one prototype body used by women's apparel manufacturers-fit models. Specifically, information was examined to determine if fit model measurement specifications had changed since 1986. Measurement specifications need to be revised regularly to accommodate changes in the population's anthropometry. Advertisements for sizes 8 and 10fit models were collected from 1986 and 1997 trade publications in the apparel industry. The 1997 size 8 specifications for bust, waist and hips were larger than the 1986 size 8. In 1997, size 8 and size 10 fit model specifications did not statistically differ. The bust and waist of the 1997 size 8 were significantly larger than the 1986 size 10. The dearth of advertisements for size 10 fit models in 1997 and the fact that many advertisements either gave measurement specifications with no size designation or required a size 8 but gave no measurement specifications suggest that size 8 is the current sample size designation. While fit model measurement specifications have changed, the change appears to have been accomplished by designating as a size 8 what was previously a size 10. Technological advances have begun to revolutionize how apparel is produced. However, technology will not displace one aspect of conventional mass production-the customer's perception of fit—thus the continued need for use of a live prototype body, whether a professional fit model or a customer.
Performance Factors of Peace Corps Handcraft Enterprises as Indicators of Income Generation and Sustainability
Authors: Durham Deborah E. , Littrell Mary A.
Published: October 2007

The influence of handcraft marketing on economic development has been widely acknowledged by governments, importing and exporting agencies, microenterprise banking initiatives, and grassroots development agencies. This study provides a holistic and comparative assessment of performance factors across 17 Peace Corps handcraft enterprises in 11 developing countries and describes their potential for income generation and sustainability. Data were generated through a mail survey and telephone interviews. Six properties fundamental to income generation included the following: locally available raw materials; utilization of indigenous technologies and simple tools; a creative and organized facilitator; funding resources in the form of capital, equipment, transportation, and in-kind contributions; producer skills related to literacy, business transactions, product development, and leadership ; and a sales outlet. Once an enterprise was underway, conceptual, interpersonal, and gender-based constraints impacted long-tenn sustainability. These performance factors are discussed as a basis for model development related to microenterprise and small business initiation and sustainability.
Effects of Grain Alignment on Fabric Mechanical Properties
Authors: Orzada Belinda T.
Published: October 2007

This study was designed to measure the effect of grain alignment on selected fabric physical and mechanical properties. Kawabata's Shear Tester and Pure Bending Tester were used to assess shear and bending properties of 19 apparel fabrics. Fabric samples were cut at six different grain alignment variations. Shear properties were more sensitive than bending properties to variations in grain alignment. Significant positive correlations were identified between tilt and shear stiffness and hysteresis measurements. Although bending modulus and hysteresis values were not significantly related to tilt, a trend toward decreased bending values with increased tilt angles was observed. Results confirm a previous study by Orzada, Moore, and Collier (1997).
Global Perspective Education: A Rationale for Textiles and Clothing
Authors: Forney Judith Cardona
Published: October 2007

The textile and clothing field is relevant to the goals in the developing area of global education: (1) recognizing global interdependence, (2) understanding universal needs, (3) recognizing cultural differences in decision making, and (4) analyzing and evaluating global issues. A rationale for developing global perspective textile and clothing curriculums can be derived from the universal significance of textiles and clothing to all mankind and the expanded role global issues are taking in everyday decision making and lifestyles. In a global perspectives approach to textiles and clothing, students analyze content across cultural and national boundaries and engage in problem solving related to the impact global issues have on the social significance, material composition, product fabrication, acquisition, and use of textiles and clothing.
Textiles and Clothing Business Professionals for the Twenty-First Century: Moving Toward Diversity
Authors: Dickson Carol Anne
Published: October 2007

Textile and clothing programs of the future, including instruction, extension, and research, will be influenced to some extent by the needs of national and international fashion-related business and industry as well as by the customerlclients whose needs are served by those businesses and industries. By identifying some possible futures of the textile and clothing industries/businesses and their clients, we will be able to project the possible roles of textile and clothing business specialists, both nationally and internationally. It is almost certain that textile and clothing specialists of the future will find their roles increasingly diversified and having international implications.
Use of Schema for Evaluating Consumer Response to an Apparel Product
Authors: DeLong Marilyn Revell , Minshall Bettie , Larntz Kinley
Published: October 2007

This investigation focused upon exploration of category-based processing strategies used by consumers when evaluating an apparel product. Three exploratory studies were conducted. The category chosen, sweaters, was found to be a well-defined concept consistent among respondents and stable over time. A generalized schema consisting of properties which define the sweater concept and evaluative and inferred properties for sweater was identified. When using this generalized schema in responding to actual sweaters, the greatest amount of variation was explained by the respondents' use of evaluative and inferred properties of the sweaters. Properties necessary in defining the concept for sweater were not as significant in explaining response variability. Evaluation of specific sweaters appeared to be based on a holistic appraisal of the sweaters rather than an attribute-by-attribute analysis. Respondents also appeared to base their generalized schema for sweater on property configurations identified with exemplar or "best case" sweaters they had previously encountered.
According to the Artists: Professional Fashion Illustrators' Views About Their Art Form
Authors: Danielson Donna R.
Published: October 2007

The purpose of this study was to gather information and opinions from major contemporary fashion illustrators in order to enrich classroom teaching of the subject and to compensate for the void in literature about post-1960 artists and their work. Individualized letters were sent to artists, most of whom were producing advertising or editorial art for New York stores, designers, firms, or publications. The artists were asked to respond to two pages of open-ended questions about their careers and other fashion illustration topics. Fifty-five artists replied in written form regarding their educational and professional experiences, suggestions for content and teaching approach in a beginning fashion illustration course, sources of poses, preferred artists' tools and media, and work setting. They also assessed the dominance of fashion photography over illustration in editorial portions of fashion magazines such as Vogue and Harper's Bazaar and cited current trends and influences. in fashion art. The quantity and time span of the artists' responses produced a chronological overview of fashion illustration trends from the late 1960s to the present, together with speculations about future use and status of fashion illustration.
Comparing Fit of Basic Bodices and Skirts Altered by Traditional and Experimental Techniques
Authors: Brackelsberg Phyllis , Farrell-Beck Jane , Winakor Geitel
Published: October 2007

The goal of this research was to compare the fit of two sets of attached basic bodices and skirts. One set was altered by a traditional method that used body lengths and circumferences and the other set by an experimental method that added to the length and circumference measurements information about body angles. These angle measurements were obtained from computer-drawn plots of the body profiles and were used to alter dart size and length and slope of the shoulder seam. Three judges evaluated the sets of muslins on a 47-item rating scale developed by the researchers. Statistical analysis of the results was by analysis of variance and examination of the means for each item. Of the 16 significant treatment main effects, 10 favored the traditional method and 6 favored the experimental method. Models with deep body contours, represented by angles, more often received satisfactory fit by the traditional method; models with shallow body angles benefited from the use of the experimental method, according to the 2 0 significant subject by treatment interactions.
Assisting Small Apparel and Textile Manufacturers in New York State: The Potential for University-Based Programs
Authors: McDowell Julie E. , Hester Susan B.
Published: October 2007

The purpose of this study was to assess the perceived information and assistance needs of New York State's small apparel and textile manufacturers. The study examined the sources of information and assistance utilized by these firms, the kinds of information and assistance (e.g. marketing, technology) which were most needed, and the potential for Cooperative Extension or other college-based programs to assist this sector. A state-wide mail and telephone survey of 850 firms provided general information on questions posed by the objectives. Personal and telephone interviews were conducted with owners from two specific industry segments throughout the state: apparel contractors and industrial fabricated product manufacturers. Marketing was identified as the most necessary type of assistance. Recommendations were made for the development, implementation, and marketing of programs to assist this important industrial sector.
History of Costume: Theory and Instruction
Authors: Jasper Cynthia R. , Roach-Higgins Mary Ellen
Published: October 2007

History of costume courses were part of the clothing and textiles curriculum in developing home economics programs early in the twentieth century. Since that time nineteenth-century theories of social evolution have been a continuing influence on history of costume courses, sometimes introducing misconceptions regarding origins and an elitism featuring Westerners as those who are privileged to know civilized rules for dress. Teachers can improve learning outcomes of courses by emphasizing a global view of dress, weeding out misleading carry-overs from evolutionary theory, and working out instructional strategies for utilizing newer theories regarding changes in form and meaning of dress. Using a tri-part conceptual scheme outlining the processes of cultural, temporal, and temporo-cultural authentication of dress is one step toward helping students comprehend how the art of borrowing elements of dress from a previous era across cultural lines leads to cultural conversion of the elements into forms unique to their setting. Additional work is needed to develop a comprehensive theoretical base that will utilize these or other constructs to improve learning outcomes for students.
Freedom in Dress: Legal Sanctions
Authors: Maher Pat Marie , Slocum Ann C.
Published: October 2007

The specific purposes of this paper were to identify dress choices which resulted in legal sanctions, to examine the legal basisfor sanctions, to specify stituations in which sanctions were upheld, and more generally to examine whether judges were sensitive to traditional or emerging social values in making their decisions. Cases involved individuals who either anticipated or suffered arrest or were denied city permits because their appearance was considered deviant. Dress aspects included the American flag as dress, military uniforms, group identification symbols, degrees of public nudity, and courtroom and prison dress. Data were taken from published case law reports appearing in West's National Reporter System.

In recent years, an increasing number ofpeople initiated dress-related court cases challenging impending and actual arrests and city license denials. In 61 percent of the cases reviewed, judges ruled that legal sanctions were incorrectly applied. Judges were sensitive to emerging values in certain areas.
Archaeological Textile Evidence for Historic Costume Study: Louisiana Tiger Rifles 1861
Authors: Deegan Ann Cordy
Published: October 2007

The purpose of this research was to analyze fabric remains from the grave of an American Civil War confederate soldier of the Louisiana Tiger Rifles who was executed by military firing squad in December 1861 near Manassas, Virginia. No confirmed visual examples of this uniform exist.

A small layered mass of fabric wasfound in this grave. Fourteen fabric samples in nine layers, none larger than 10.2 cm2, were analyzed by compound light microscope, stereomicroscope, and scanning electron microscopefor fiber content, color, and fabric construction. Garment silhouettes were not obtainable through this research nor were details on lower body garments. Upper body garments were identified as a dark silk cravat located in the top layer above a porcelain shirt button. The next layer was a blue wool, twill weave jacket with red, plain weave wool binding on the edge. The only other garment was a cream colored, plain weave wool shirt with interface stiffening in the front placket region. The data were used to help reconstruct the Tiger Rifles uniform for living history demonstrations.
Developing A Learning Hierarchy for Clothing Construction: Phase I
Authors: Marshall Ruth
Published: October 2007

This study was designed to answer the question: Is there a sequence for presenting objectives in the area of clothing construction which will facilitaie the acquisition of new learnings and, thus, produce positive transfer of knowledge and skills? Two hundred seventy-one members of the Association of College Professors of Textiles and Clothing completed a questionnaire containing 159 objectives related to clothing construction. Seven factors emerged from the data. Items were listed by means within each factor, and factors were placed into difficulty levels by means. Data analysis revealed a pattern which has meaning for the ordering of objectives both within and between factors. Further study is needed to provide a basis for suggesting the prerequisite relationship that may exist within these relationships.
Perceived Risk and Information Sources Used by Wheelchair-Bound Consumers in Clothing Purchase Decisions
Authors: O'Bannon Paula B. , Feather Betty L. , Vann John W. , Dillard Betty G.
Published: October 2007

Disabled consumers confined to wheelchairs represent a special consumer group for clothing manufacturers and retailers. They have special clothing needs and may perceive different risks associated with clothing purchases than do able-bodied consumers. The purpose of this study was to examine information seeking behavior, types of perceived risk—economic, performance, physical, psychological, and social—and the relationship between information seeking and risk associated with clothing purchases of 75 wheelchair-bound consumers. Regression analysis was used to determine the relationship between the five types of risk and overall risk and the relationship between types of risk and information sources used. Perceived physical risk ranked highest and perceived social risk ranked lowest for the respondents. Performance and social risk were significantly correlated with overall risk at the.05 level. However, the correlation of various types ofrisk with the use ofspecific information sources was not significant except for a negative correlation between social risk and neutral information sources. Information sources most often used by respondents were mail order catalogs and family members. Those with cogenital disability perceived higher overall risk than those with acquired disability.
Consumers' Evaluations of Apparel Form, Expression, and Aesthetic Quality
Authors: Morganosky Michelle A. , Postlewait Deborah S.
Published: October 2007

Using a theoretical base grounded in aesthetic literature, consumers' evaluations of apparel form, expression, and aesthetic quality are compared. Results indicate that form is more closely related to consumers' aesthetic evaluations than to qualities of expression. It also was found that evaluations of apparel form, expression, and aesthetic quality were quite similar for male and female subjects.
Theoretical Development in Clothing and Textiles: Are We Stuck in the Concrete?
Authors: Nagasawa Richard H. , Kaiser Susan B. , Hutton Sandra S.
Published: October 2007

This paper addresses the need for more abstract theoretical development in clothing and textiles. Presented is a model of scientific inquiry to use as a guide to assess current research and to provide suggestions for future development and ordering of knowledge. It is argued that current practices restrain development of the discipline at a concrete, observable level. Questions are raised and recommendations are offered to aid in development of knowledge in the field.
Etowah Textile Remains and Cultural Context: A Model for Inference
Authors: Sibley Lucy R. , Jakes Kathryn A.
Published: October 2007

Archaeological textiles are products of decision making by early peoples and represent efforts to manage environmental, economic, and human resources for a variety of purposes. Their study must incorporate rigor, but the conditions of survival have hampered investigative efforts in the past. Recent applications of instrumental analyses have yielded more precise information which must be used correctly in order to reconstruct with accuracy the cultural use of textile products in the past. A theoretical framework and model are proposed for inferring cultural context from archaeological textile remains. The model incorporates two types of attribute analyses and burial site information to infer behavior and function in the cultural processes of early people. A partially mineralized fabric from Mound C, Etowah (EMC #840) was used to test the model's capabilities.
Effectiveness of Dye Setting Treatments on Cotton Fabrics Dyed with Direct, Reactive, and Vat Dyes
Authors: Crews Patricia Cox
Published: October 2007

Eight treatments were evaluated for their effectiveness in the setting of dyes in new cotton fabrics. Dyes representing three application classes (direct, reactive, and vat) widely used on cotton fabrics were selected. Because of the perceived problems of red dyes bleeding during laundering, five of the eight dyes selected for evaluation were red. Color and staining evaluations were made after treatment and after laundering of the treated specimens to determine the effects of the treatments on color change and bleeding.

The dye setting treatments did not cause large amounts of color change in the treated fabrics; however, none of the dye setting treatments significantly reduced color loss or staining during laundering for any of the dyes. Some of the treatments actually increased rather than decreased color loss and staining. Clearly, the home treatments for setting dyes evaluated in this study are a waste of the consumer's time, energy, and money.
Garments Worn by Production Workers in Cleanrooms: A Needs Assessment
Authors: Brandt Brenda , Cory E. Marie
Published: October 2007

This study represented a preparatory effort to improve understanding of contamination from cleanroom garments worn in the microelectronic and semiconductor industries. Previous research pertaining to cleanroom garments and particle contamination was assembled, and users and suppliers of cleanroom garments were surveyed to identify and categorize currently worn and desired future garments. The research review exposed the diversity of laboratory and garment wear study testing taking place and identified a critical need for industry-wide testing methods and standards to evaluate cleanroom garments. Survey data provided information as to what garments are currently worn in the work environment and pointed to garment comfort as a future research and development effort.
Linking Anthropology and History in Textiles and Clothing Research: The Ethnohistorical Method
Authors: Pannabecker Rachel K.
Published: October 2007

Ethnohistory is an interdisciplinary method combining anthropological and historical approaches. The ethnohistorical method is introduced and its application to the study of textiles and clothing is demonstrated through examples of cross-cultural research. Two controversies regarding the interdisciplinary nature of ethnohistory are investigated and analyzed in relation to textiles and clothing research. An interdisciplinary method, such as ethnohistory, can foster linkages among textiles and clothing scholars and stimulate research that crosses disciplinary boundaries.
The Acceptability of Catalogs for Apparel Purchases
Authors: Seitz Victoria A. , Massey Tom K.
Published: October 2007

Despite the growth of catalog shopping, little is known about the acceptability of mail order catalogs for apparel purchases. This study evaluated factors that contributed to the acceptability of catalog shopping for apparel among the sample of shoppers. Although it was expected that acceptability would be a function of selected demographic variables, results of an analysis of covariance test revealed no significant (p < .05) main effects for education, age, income, or sex. Significant (p <.05) interactions were found, however, among these demographic variables, functional motives, and catalog acceptability. The implications of this research are discussed.
Impressions of Personality Based on Body Forms: An Application of Hillestad's Model of Appearance
Authors: Johnson Kim K. P.
Published: October 2007

The purpose of this research was to investigate whether impressions ofpersonality varied by size and shape of male and female body forms. Three hundred eighty-five male and female undergraduates served as subjects. Each subject received a questionnaire with a line drawing attached. Each drawing was either a male or a female previously rated by judges as representing an ectomorphic (thin), ecto-mesomorphic (thin/muscular), mesomorphic (muscular), endo-mesomorphic (heavy/muscular) or endomorphic (heavy) body form. Each subject rated one body form on 22 characteristics. Ratings were scored on 5-point scales representing a high to low response, e.g., happy-not happy. Data were analyzed using factor analysis, analyses of variance, and Newman-Keul's test. Male subjects did not differ from female subjects in their ratings of the body forms. Subjects' impressions of personality were influenced by body form information. Subjects rated male body forms as generally more "masculine" than female body forms and the mesomorphic body form was rated highest on the factor "activity" as might have been expected. Unexpected was the finding that male body forms appear to have more "appeal" overall than female body forms except in the case of the female ectomorph. Results suggest researchers interested in the effect of appearance on social interaction may wish to take into consideration body form.
Selected Sports Bras: Comparisons of Comfort and Support
Authors: Lawson LaJean , Lorentzen Deana
Published: October 2007

This study compared seven sports bras on quantitative and subjective measures of support and comfort for small, medium, and large breasted women during exercise. Fifty-nine subjects representing A, B, C, and D cup sizes were filmed while jogging on a treadmill at 6 mph in each bra style and in the nude condition. The average vertical displacement of the breast relative to the body was calculated for each condition. Subsequently, subjects completed questionnaires after engaging in vigorous exercise in each bra to assess subjectively comfort and support for each of the seven sports bras. Two-way repeated measures ANOVA's and subsequent pairwise comparisons indicated significant differences by bra style in subjective mean comfort scores and a significant interaction between subjects' cup sizes and subjective mean support scores. Pearson product moment correlation coefficients among vertical displacement values, subjective measures of support, and subjective measures of comfort indicated that bras that effectively controlled breast displacement tended to score lower on comfort. There were, however, exceptions to this trend, and no single bra rated well on all three measures of performance.
Water Hardness, Detergent Type, and Prewash Product Use as Factors Affecting Methyl Parathion Residue Retained in Protective Apparel Fabrics
Authors: Laughlin Joan , Gold Roger E.
Published: October 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of water hardness, detergent type, and prewash product on methyl parathion residue remaining in fabric after laundering. Measured water hardness had not been included as a variable in earlier studies. Its effect is particularly important as water hardness may interfere with the cleaning effectiveness of the detergent, the detersive action of an anionic product being reduced more than that of a nonionic product. The factorial design included (a) two detergents (nonionic and anionic) (b) a prewash product (laundered with or without) (c) fabric finish (unfinished or repellent finished) and (d) five levels of water hardness (0, 300, 600, 900, and 1200ppm). Unlaundered 8 X 8 cm specimens were spiked with 0.2 ml of methyl parathion. Residue was extracted following laundering and quantity remaining was determined by gas chromatography.

The results showed that the repellent finish was effective in limiting methyl parathion absorption. After laundering, residues were greater for a soil-repellent finished fabric than the unfinished fabric even though the initial contamination was lower for the soil-repellent finished fabric. As level of water hardness increased, residue retained increased. The anionic phosphate detergent was less efficient in methyl parathion removal than was heavy duty liquid detergent; however, use of a prewash product before laundering with the anionic detergent resulted in residues on unfinished specimens at levels similar to those for the heavy duty liquid detergent.
Apparel Manufacturers' Perceptions of Supplier-Retailer Relationships
Authors: Dickerson Kitty G. , Dalecki Michael
Published: October 2007

Structural changes occurring in the U.S. softgoods industry have had a significant impact on manufacturer-retailer relationships. The present study examines certain aspects of these relationships within the context of theory and earlier work on channel relationships. In this study 70% of Missouri's population of apparel producers responded to a survey designed to examine apparel manufacturers' perceptions of working relationships with retailers. Results indicated that larger, more active companies appeared to have less difficulty in their relationships with retail customers than have their smaller, less active counterparts. Manufacturing firms that direct a large proportion of their production to mass merchandisers reported fewer problems in working with mass merchandisers than suppliers directing less of their production to those outlets. Manufacturers relied most heavily on traveling market representatives to establish and maintain retail accounts. Apparel producers saw lower prices and improved products and services (particularly Quick Response) as the primary means of improving their company's ability to market to U.S. retailers. Implications for the softgoods industry and for educators are considered
Body Cathexis, Clothing Attitude, and Their Relations to Clothing and Shopping Behavior Among Male Consumers
Authors: Shim Soyeon , Kotsiopulos Antigone , Knoll Diane S.
Published: October 2007

This study was designed to segment male apparel consumers based on the interaction between body cathexis and clothing attitude and to investigate differences in clothing behavior, shopping behavior, and individual characteristics among the four groups identified by adapting Sirgy's self image/product-image congruity theory: (a) positive congruity, (b) positive incongruity, (c) negative congruity, and (d) negative incongruity. Data (n = 269) from a national random sample were analyzed. A series of one-wayANOVA analyses revealed that these fourgroups differed in clothing behavior (fashion innovativeness, fashion opinion leadership, sel, f confidence in clothing), shopping behavior (store patronage, shopping interest, attitude toward catalog shopping, satisfactions with ready-to-wear and product variety/stote quality), and individual characteristics (sports lifestyle activity, annual wardrobe expenditure). Based on the findings, the authors discuss theoretical as well as managerial implications.