bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Effects of Pin Drafting on Irregularities of Sliver Made from Fine Denier Fibers
Authors: Sakaguchi Akio , Matsumoto Yo-Ichi , Toriumi Koichiro
Published: March 2008

To improve the quality of spun yarn made from fine denier fibers, the technique of pin drafting is examined and discussed. Slivers made from four levels of fiber fineness are drafted with an experimental pin drafting system by changing the draft ratio. Deviations between indices of irregularities I corresponding to output and input slivers are calculated to evaluate the performance of the drafting process. Deviations of the gill sliver decrease with decreasing fiber denier. This phenomenon can be explained by the larger number of fibers contacting the pins of the gill fallers and the greater interfiber cohesive force with decreasing fiber denier. Irregularities of sliver from fine denier fibers are effectively negated by an appropriate pin drafting system.
Evaluating and Predicting Fabric Bagging with Image Processing
Authors: Yeung K.W. , Li Y. , Zhang X. , Yao M.
Published: March 2008

The aim of this work is to develop a method to evaluate garment bagging by image processing with different modeling techniques. Garment bagging is a kind of three-dimen sional residual deformation during wear, which can be characterized by a few parameters such as bagging height, volume, shape, and anisotropy. Traditional methods are limited to evalu ating bagging appearance by single parameters such as height, which cannot represent the abundant information given by the appearance of a bagged fabric. In this paper, we develop a method to evaluate fabric bagging from captured images of bagged fabrics by image processing and abstracting the criteria to recognize bagging magnitude. Based on an analysis of the intensity images, eight criteria are extracted to characterize the image features including bagging height, volume, and shape, and fabric surface patterns on bagging appearance. The criteria are used as variables in three predictive models. The work shows that bagging appearance can be predicted by the criteria extracted from the images of bagged fabrics.
Measuring Fiber Orientation in Nonwovens: The Hough Transform
Authors: Pourdeyhimi B. , Kim H.S.
Published: March 2008

This paper extends the work discussed previously in a series of papers devoted to the use of image analysis methods to characterize the fiber orientation. This paper outlines the theory and application of the Hough transform in determining the fiber orientation distribution of a series of simulated and real nonwoven fabrics. The results are compared to those obtained using fast Fourier transform methods.
Washing Durability of Cotton Coated with a Fluorinated Resin: An AFM, XPS, and Low Frequency Mechanical Spectroscopy Study
Authors: Juhué D. , Gayon A.C. , Corpart J.M. , Quet C. , Delichère P. , Charret N. , David L. , Cavaillé J.Y. , Perriat P.
Published: March 2008

The evolution, during laundering, of mechanical, chemical, and morphological prop erties of cellulose fibers covered with a fluorocarbon resin is studied using a combination of low frequency mechanical spectroscopy (LFMS), x-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS), and atomic force microscopy (AFM). From this study of the roughness and surface composition of the film covering cellulose fibers, new explanations are proposed for the decrease in water and oil repellency with washing, and its partial recovery with subsequent heat treatment such as ironing. The observed phenomena involve de-wetting and re wetting of the fluorinated polymer on the cellulose surfaces, inducing a modification of adhesion mechanisms between the fluorocarbon polymer and the cellulose fibers and the formation and/or destruction of fluorinated polymer bridges (matrix or ligand effect) between the fibers.
Digital Image Analysis for Fabric Assessment
Authors: Cardamone Jeanette M. , Damert William C. , Phillips John G. , Marmer William N.
Published: March 2008

Conventional methods of fabric inspection are tedious and require close association. In this work, digital image analysis for fabric assessment (DIAFA) is applied to modem and historic fabrics. Fabric images are divided into arrays of pixels with peak intensities distributed over gray scale ranges (histograms) and along constructed lines (line profiles). Fabric cover is measured by segmenting a histogram's B/w pixels, yarn spacing, and yarn thickness from moving point averages by calculating the breadth of a peak corresponding to an individual yarn at half the maximum peak height for a given line profile. The results show very good agreement with known values ( r = 0.919, n = 30, p < 0.01). Fourier power spectra provide facile measurements of yarn parameters in close agreement with the results from line profiling. With DIAFA, a small tool kit is developed to assist in the objective analysis of the structural integrity of fabrics in the museum environment, and it could be very useful in advancing automated fabric inspection.
Relationships Between Fibrillation Behavior of Lyocell Fibers and Their Physical Properties
Authors: Udomkichdecha W. , Chiarakorn S. , Potiyaraj P.
Published: March 2008

Lyocell, a novel cellulosic fiber, has superior mechanical properties along with envi ronmental friendly aspects. Nevertheless, in some applications, its fibrillation behavior is considered to be a drawback. This behavior can be easily measured by the so-called fibrillation index, which is a value indicating the degree of fibrillation of the fibers. This paper investigates the relationship between the degree of fibrillation of Lyocell fibers and three of their physical properties: birefringence, viscosity. and relative crystallinity. Optical microscopy is used to determine the fibrillation indices of Lyocell fibers after being finished with a commercial crosslinking agent in various concentrations. Birefrin gence, viscosity, and relative crystallinity are studied with polarized optical microscopy. the dilute solution technique, and x-ray diffractometry, respectively. The results show that certain concentrations of the crosslinking agent can be used effectively to control the degree of fibrillation. Relative crystallinity and birefringence decrease steadily, while the concentration of crosslinking agent increases. Intrinsic viscosity marked increases when concentrations of crosslinking agent are higher. There are firm relationships between the fibrillation index and these three properties; accordingly, a simple mathematical model is derived to predict the degree of fibrillation in relation to them.
Static Low-Load Lateral Compression of Fabrics
Authors: Taylor P.M. , Pollet D.M.
Published: March 2008

Van Wyk's equations are used to approximate static low-load compression curves (maxi mum 10 gf/cm2) of both woven and knitted materials generally used in garment automation. The simple two-parameter approach, which excludes the volume in unloaded conditions, is first used as an estimate and gives the starting values for the more refined three-parameter model, which eventually gives an almost perfect fit with the experimental results.
Determining the Structural Parameters That Affect Overall Properties of Warp Knitted Fabrics Using Cluster Analysis
Authors: Yoon Hye-Shin , Park Shin-Woong
Published: March 2008

Two-bar warp knitted structures are grouped by cluster analysis of mechanical and physical properties, and the resulting classified groups show distinctive characteristics. The first group represents highly smooth, full and soft properties compared with other groups, and the characteristics of the second group are less smooth, full and soft. The fabrics of the third group are very stiff and smooth, and those of the last group are the least stiff, smooth, full, and soft. By analyzing the structures within and between groups, the structural parameters affecting the overall properties of warp knitted fabrics are deter mined. The results show that the formalized factors affecting the characteristics of warp knitted fabrics are the run-in ratio, pillar-lapping movement, direction of mutual guide bar movement with parallel or counter lapping, and closed or open lap type.
Dimensional and Physical Properties of Cotton/Spandex Single Jersey Fabrics
Authors: Marmarali A. Bayazit
Published: March 2008

In this study, the dimensional and physical properties of cotton/spandex single jersey fabrics are investigated and the results compared with fabrics knitted from otton alone. The loop length and amount of spandex are usted to determine the dimensions and properties of the knits. It is apparent that as the amount of spandex increases loop length values remain nearly the same and the course and wale spacing values decrease. Further more, because spandex-containing fabrics tend to tighter, the weight and thickness of the fabrics are higher but air permeability, pilling grade, and spirality are lower.
Camera-Based Measurement of Textile Card Web Density
Authors: Dorrity J. Lewis , Fan Zhao  , Carr W.W.
Published: March 2008

A new process is being developed to significantly shorten the current process sequence of short-staple yarn manufacturing. Measuring carded web density is critically important in this new process. Typical technologies that might be used to measure card eb density rely on significant density in order to have enough absorption of radiation to work properly. However, the card web has a very low density (about 13 g/m2) that provides very little absorption. In the absence of an inexpensive method for measuring card webs. the research discussed in this paper attempts to determine whether a digital image processing system can be used to measure card web density. The system consists of a camera focused on the web, illuminated by a light source. A good linear correlation is found between the reflected light from a section of card web and the weight of that section.
Evaluating Wool Shirt Comfort with Wear Trials and the Forearm Test
Authors: Wang G. , Zhang W. , Postle R. , Phillips D.
Published: March 2008

The comfort of light-weight woven fabrics in the form of next-to-skin clothing is investigated by wear trials and the forearm test. The wear trial in neutral environmental conditions shows that light-weight wool and wool blend fabrics are generally less comfortable than the summer polyester, cotton poplin, and polyester/cotton, fabrics tested in this study. In terms of comfort, the main shortcoming of these light-weight wool fabrics is prickle. When the environmental temperature is high, especially when the body is sweating, the comfort of wool and wool blend fabrics is greatly reduced due to signifi cantly increased prickle. The forearm test in neutral environmental conditions shows that fabric-evoked prickle decreases with an increasing wool quality number, i.e., as the wool becomes finer. For light-weight wool and wool blend woven fabrics proddced from 70s quality and coarser wools, there is the potential problem of prickle when used as next-to-skin clothing materials.
Contribution of Fabric Characteristics and Laundering to Shrinkage of Weft Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Onal Levent , Candan Cevza
Published: March 2008

Cotton and cotton/polyester blended weft knitted fabrics are prone to shrinkage during finishing processes and customer usage. The effect of various fabric characteristics on the shrinkage behavior of weft knits is as important as that of the fiber characteristics. In this work, three different single jersey knits with varying fabric tightnesses, yarn types, and fiber blends are selected for their characteristics. The contribution of each characteristic to shrinkage behavior is presented statistically using an analysis of variance. The fabrics are subjected to several laundering cycles followed by tumble drying. Changes in the dimensions are measured right after each process and cycle. Double pique knits shrink less widthwise but more lengthwise than the other knit types. Yam type and fiber blend have a relatively more significant contribution to fabric shrinkage lengthwise than widthwise. Knit loop formation is defined in each relaxation stage from dry relaxed to fully relaxed. The effect of dyeing on fabric relaxation is also studied.
Simulating and Characterizing Water Flows Inside Hydroentangling Orifices
Authors: Tafreshi H. Vahedi , Pourdeyhimi B. , Holmes R. , Shiffler D.
Published: March 2008

The hydroentangling technique uses cone-capillary orifice nozzles to direct high-energy water jets against loose fiber webs. This study simulates the effects of orifice configuration on the water-jet properties. An axisymmetric steady-state model is considered for this two-phase system. The turbulent water jet is simulated using a realizable k - ε model, and the behaviors of cone-up and cone-down geometries are investigated. The simulation reveals that the water jet produced by a cone-up orifice keeps contact with the walls all the way through the orifice and may undergo cavitation to reduce the water-jet intact length and damage to the orifice surface. In contrast, the cone-down geometry can form a constricted water jet that is enveloped by an air gap, which separates the water from the orifice surface and therefore prevents cavitation. The results are in excellent agreement with previous experimental studies.
Thermal Analysis and Differential Solubility of Polyester Fibers and Yarns
Authors: Manich A.M. , Bosch T. , Carilla J. , Ussman M.H. , Maillo J. , Gacén J.
Published: March 2008

The differential sdlubility and thermal analysis of three kinds of polyester fibers designed for rotor, worsted ring, and carded ring spinning are measured. Poly(ethylene terephthalate) yarns are obtained through the three processes and then analyzed. Using a thermomechanical analyzer, the thermal transitions of the different yarn types are deter mined. The crystallinity of fibers and yarns is measured by DSC. The relationship between thermal transitions, crystallinity, and differential solubility of the polyester fibers and yarns is studied and some inferences on its fine structure are reported.
Modeling the Twist Level at the Peeling Point in Rotor Spinning
Authors: Ta Ba  , Xiubao Huang
Published: March 2008

By analyzing yarn motion and yam dynamics in rotor spinning, this paper provides an analytical model to determine the twist level at the peeling point in rotor spinning. The model shows that the twist level of the yam arm near the peeling point obviously declines, mainly because its bent shape acts like a "virtual twist blockage device," to such an extent that the twist level at this point is even lower than that of machine twist. The twist level at the peeling point for finer yams can be higher than that for coarser ones, because of the multiple effect of yarn linear density, rotor speed, and rotor diameter, etc. This finding infers that the spinning stability of finer yams may improve if the spinning and machine parameters mentioned above are properly matched.
Dependence of Sorption Properties of Fibrous Assemblies on Their Fabrication and Material Characteristics
Authors: Seong Hun Kim  , Jae Hyung Lee  , Dae Young Lim  , Han Yong Jeon
Published: March 2008

To characterize the sorption behavior of a fibrous assembly, an experimental method must measure the sorption rate and the capacity in conditions similar to those found in the real state. The gravimetric absorbency testing system (GATS) has advantages in that it can dynamically observe the spontaneous transplanar uptake of liquids by a fibrous assembly. and it can simultaneously obtain the sorption rate and the capacity of the specimen by observing the real-time sorption weight per second. Fibrous assemblies with the optimum sorption properties are obtained by analyzing the GATS sorption characteristics of woven and knit fabrics with different materials, structures, and pore sizes. For the greatest sorption capacity wiping cloths, the knit or woven density and fineness have to be as low as possible, the thickness and pore size have to be as large as possible, and the pile has to be formed so as to have as many inner spaces as possible. For the greatest sorption rate, the density has to be as high as possible, and the fineness has to be as low as possible in order to increase the surface area in contact with the fluid.
Enthalpies of Water in Freezing and Thawing of Wool-Water Mixtures
Authors: Takahashi Hidenori , Mitomo Hiroshi , Arai Kozo , Takigami Shoji
Published: March 2008

Enthalpies of freezing and thawing of water in wool-water mixtures are evaluated by DSC. The two different samples are clean wool extracted with acetone and delipided wool prepared by extraction with a mixed solvent composed of chloroform, ethanol, and water in volume ratios of 19:8:1. On cooling curves at 5 K/min for both samples, there are three main peaks for crystallization at about 228, 240, and 255K. The enthalpy of water corresponding to each peak is determined from the slope of the linear relationship between heat and water content. The enthalpies estimated from the three exotherms are 17, 181, and 287 J/g of water, respectively, for the acetone extracted wool, and the values for the delipided wool are 17, 85, and 281 J/g. On the heating curves, there are two peaks—a broad endotherm beginning at a temperature of T d, which varies with the water content, and a sharp peak due to melting of ice for bulk water at 273K. The respective enthalpies are 222 and 330 J/g for the acetone-extracted wool and 110 and 326 J/g for the delipided wool. A possible explanation is proposed for the marked difference in enthalpy between the samples upon freezing and thawing. Removing the unbound internal lipids increases diffusion resistance to water transport within the fibers. The relationship of Td to water content is also discussed.
Dynamic Wetting of Fibers Observed in an Environmental Scanning Electron Microscope
Authors: Wei Q.F. , Mather R.R. , Fotheringham A.F. , Yang R.D.
Published: March 2008

Wetting is an important characteristic of textile materials in many applications. Micro scopic observations of dynamic wetting of untreated and oxygen plasma treated polypro pylene fibers on the environmental scanning electron microscope (ESEM) are explored in this study. The relative humidity in the ESEM chamber is raised to 100% by controlling the specimen's temperature and the chamber pressure to produce water condensation on the fiber surfaces. Dynamic wetting, that is, the formation, spreading, and coalescence of water droplets on fiber surfaces, is observed and recorded in real time. Contact angles are measured from the ESEM images, which reveal the dynamic wetting of textile fibers on a micron level.
Effect of Stitches on the Permeability of Interbundle Channels in Stitched Fabrics
Authors: Jinlian Hu  , Yi Liu  , Xueming Shao
Published: March 2008

Stitched multilayer fabrics have drawn increasing attention as reinforcing materials for high performance composites due to their integrity and wide variety. In this paper, the focus is on the effect of stitches on the equivalent permeability of interbundle channels, which is inves tigated systematically through numerical simulation of Navier-Stokes equations and expressed as the value of K/K0. The results show that stitches may dramatically affect the permeability of interbundle channels, even if stitch size is relatively small. Thus, this effect has to be considered when establishing an effective permeability model for stitched fabrics. The nu merical simulation results also suggest that the effect of stitches is quite different for a different stitch size, off-center position, slope, array, distribution density, and average Darcy velocity in fiber bundles. Changes in K/K0 with these parameters are discussed.
Hydrophilic Treatment of Polyester Surfaces Using TiO2 Photocatalytic Reactions
Authors: Sawada Kazuya , Sugimoto Masakatsu , Ueda Mitsuo , Chan Hun Park
Published: March 2008

Photocatalytic hydrophilic treatment of polyester surfaces is investigated using TiO2 as a photocatalyst. The hydrophilicity of photocatalyzed polyester film and fabric is evaluated by means of water absorbency, contact angles, and XPS analyses. Irradiation of uv light with an approximate wavelength of 352 nm produces effective photocatalytic action of TiO2 on polyester. The surface properties of photocatalyzed polyester materials significantly improve and show high hydrophilicity. XPS analysis also indicates that the photocatalytic reaction of TiO2 generates C—O and C==O groups on the surface of polyester.
Free Radical Formation in Wool Fibers Treated by Low Temperature Plasma
Authors: Molina Ricardo , Erra Pilar , Julià Luís , Bertran Enric
Published: March 2008

Electron spin resonance studies of merino wool fabrics provide evidence of the presence of stable free radicals. Ultraviolet/visible (λ > 250 nm) irradiation increases the radical concentration. Nitrogen, air, and water vapor plasma treatments on wool fabrics result in new signal bands attributed to nitrogen-centered radicals. The formation of the different additional radicals could be related to the high reactivity of the plasma species or to the vacuum-ultraviolet radiation component (λ < 200 nm) of the plasma environ ment. The presence of these radicals depends on the treatment time and the kind of gas used for plasma generation.
Internal Structure of Mature and Immature Cotton Fibers Revealed by Scanning Probe Microscopy
Authors: Maxwell J.M. , Gordon S.G. , Huson M.G.
Published: March 2008

A scanning probe microscope (SPM) is used to investigate morphological, nano-me chanical, and moisture absorption properties of transverse sections of mature and imma ture cotton fibers. Using TappingModeTM, images of whole sections reveal growth bands and the lumen. Increasing the imaging force produces contrast in the phase images, revealing discrete fibrils and variations in fibril density across the fiber cross sections. The effect of relative humidity (RH) on the fiber structure and hardness is also examined with the SPM. As RH increases, immature fibers swell above the face of the resin block in which they are mounted and become "softer," as indicated by a series of force-distance mea surements. What is thought to be fibril aggregation is evident when the immature fibers dry. Mature fibers in the resin block also "soften" to some degree but fail to swell, and fibril aggregation is not evident. Transverse sections of both mature and immature fibers. which have been cut from the resin block and floated in water onto glass microscope slides, show fibril aggregation. Both the mature and immature fibers are believed to pass through a glass transition at about 78% RH at 22°C. To our knowledge, this is the first study to reveal the fine structure of cotton fiber cross sections that have not received chemical or physical pretreatment. Proposed future work will attempt to relate both fibril density and hardness to the degree of crystallinity and, in turn, fiber maturity. In addition, the ability to obtain images of the growth bands that have been unaltered since the initial drying of the fiber may be useful in studying growing conditions.
Ester Crosslinking Treatmen for Reducing the Fibrillation Tendency of Lyocell Fibers
Authors: Kuanjun Fang  , Longyun Hao  , Xuecha Hu  , Huili Shao
Published: March 2008

Lyocell fibers have excellent properties, but they show a distinct tendency to fibrillate with wetting and mechanical stress. Chemical modification by esterification of these fibers could be a good means of solving this problem. A scanning electron microscopy analysis shows that treatment with polycar oxylic acids can effectively reduce the fibrillation tendency of lyocell fibers. A revised wet abrasion test method is used to measure fibrillation tendency. Wet abrasion time and mechanical property measurements reveal that fibers treated with 5-6% 1,2,3,4-butanetetra-carboxylic acid or 13-14% polymaleic acid exhibit satisfactory fibrillation resistance and mechanical properties.
Compressibility of Cotton Blend Perpendicular-Laid Nonwovens
Authors: Parikh D.V. , Calamari T.A. , Goynes W.R. , Chen Y. , Jirsak O.
Published: March 2008

Perpendicular-laid and cross-laid highloft nonwoven fabrics are constructed of cotton, polyester, and bicomponent co-polyester bonding fibers. Kawabata parameters describing the compressional resistance and recovery of these fabrics are measured with a comput erized Q-test instrument. Results are obtained from tests replicated by two independent operators in triplicate and on different dates. Compared to cross-laid fabrics, perpendic ular-laid fabrics show higher compressional resistance and superior elastic properties. These results confirm earlier findings on the compressional behavior of highlofts deter mined on a Gustin-Bacon thickness measurement instrument.
Predicting Clothing Sensory Comfort with Artificial Intelligence Hybrid Models
Authors: Wong A.S.W. , Li Y. , Yeung P.K.W.
Published: March 2008

This paper investigates the process of human psychological perceptions of clothing- related sensations and comfort to develop an intellectual understanding of and method ology for predicting clothing comfort performance from fabric physical properties. Var ious hybrid models are developed using different modeling techniques by studying human sensory perception and judgement processes. By combining the strengths of statistics (data reduction and information summation), a neural network (self-learning ability), and fuzzy logic (fuzzy reasoning ability), hybrid models are developed to simulate different stages of the perception process. Results show that the TS-TS-NN-FL model has the highest ability to predict overall comfort performance from fabric physical properties. To summarize, the three key elements in predicting psychological perceptions of clothing comfort from fabric physical properties are data reduction and summation, self-learning, and fuzzy reasoning. This paper shows that the model that integrates these three elements can generate the best predictions compared with other hybrid models.
Effect of Process Variables and Feeder Yarn Properties on the Properties of Core-and-Effect and Normal Air-Jet Textured Yarns
Authors: Rengasamy R.S. , Kothari V.K. , Patnaik A.
Published: March 2008

Tensile and dimensional properties of air-jet textured yarns are affected by air pressure, overfeed, and different overfeed levels of the core and effect components. There is considerable deterioration in the tenacity and modulus of yarns after texturing. Yarn breaking extension mostly decreases after texturing. Yarns textured at higher air pressures have poor strength and low instability. Yarns textured at higher overfeeds have poor strength and higher extension, instability, and shrinkage. Normal (parallel-feed) textured yarns are stronger and less stable with lower shrinkage values. When the difference is greater between the overfeed amounts of the core and effect components, the tensile properties deteriorate and the stability of the textured yarns improves. The stability of yarns textured with the core end wetted is better than with the effect end wetted.
Simulating Cavitation and Hydraulic Flip Inside Hydroentangling Nozzles
Authors: Vahedi Tafreshi H. , Pourdeyhimi B.
Published: March 2008

Hydroentangling owes its success to the peculiar properties of coherent water jets. For hydroentangling to be feasible at higher pressures, it is extremely important that water jets maintain their collimation for an appreciable distance downstream of the nozzle. How ever, water-jet breakup accelerates at high pressures. Recent studies have shown that cavitation severely affects the integrity of high-pressure water jets. Investigating cavita tion experimentally is not trivial. Computational fluid dynamics simulations offer appro priate tools as a first step. This paper discusses the results of an unsteady-state simulation, which shows the inception and time-evolution of a cavitation cloud inside a hydroentan gling nozzle. Under certain conditions, the cavity cloud extends to the nozzle outlet, resulting in the so-called hydraulic flip. Once hydraulic flip occurs, cavitation suddenly vanishes because the downstream air moves upward into the nozzle and fills the cavity. This air envelops the water flow inside the nozzle, which results in the depletion of cavitation-induced instabilities from the jet surface and elongates the jet breakup length. Moreover, our simulations reveal the approximate time scales of cavity growth through the nozzle. This information is highly relevant for experimental visualization of nozzle cavitation. The discharge and velocity coefficient obtained from the simulation are in a good agreement with published experimental data.
Bacteriostasis of Nanosized Colloidal Silver on Polyester Nonwovens
Authors: Hoon Joo Lee  , Sung Hoon Jeong
Published: March 2008

This research deals with the antibacterial efficacy of a nanosized silver colloidal solution and its application to nonwoven fabrics. The nutrient solution including the nanosized silver colloidal solution or the nanosilver treated nonwovens are placed on germ containing agar plates and inoculated with gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria and evaluated for bacteriostasis and calculated bacterial reduction, respectively. Nanosized silver colloids and nanosilver treated nonwovens have good bacteriostasis. TEM observa tions of silver nanoparticles show their shape and size distribution. SEM images of treated fabrics indicate silver nanoparticles are well dispersed on the surfaces of specimens. Antibacterial treatment of nonwoven fabrics is easily achieved by the nanaosized silver colloidal solution.
Effect of Boric Acid and BTCA on Tensile Strength Loss of Finished Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Sricharussin W. , Ryo-Aree W. , Intasen W. , Poungraksakirt S.
Published: March 2008

Several polycarboxylic acids have been studied as durable press finishing agents for cotton fabrics. The most effective is 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA). One of the drawbacks of this crosslinking is the severe loss of mechanical strength of the treated fabrics, which is responsible for the reduced durability of finished cotton garments. In this research, boric acid mixed with BTCA is considered as a remedy for this problem. Fourier transform infrared spectra, tensile tests, and crease recovery angle (CRA) measurements are used to investigate the effects of the treatment. The results reveal that if cotton fabrics are treated with the combination of BTCA and boric acid, they show high CRA values at a low curing temperature. In the presence of sodium hypophosphite as a catalyst, higher CRA values may be obtained, although at higher curing temperatures. Interestingly, adding boric acid to BTCA in the right proportions leads to almost complete retention of the mechanical strength originally present in the untreated cotton.
Analysis of a Novel 3D Hybrid Woven/Knitted Fabric Structure
Authors: Adanur Sabit , Onal Levent
Published: March 2008

In Part I of this series, a geometric model was developed to predict loop length, yarn consumption, and thickness of a novel 3D hybrid woven/knitted fabric structure. In this part, a mechanical model is generated for estimating the Young's modulus and extension of the 3D hybrid woven/knitted fabric structure. Castigliano's theorem is used to derive the relations. The compression, extension, and bending energies of yarns are considered for the total strain-energy formula of the fabric. The mechanical model is verified for the fabric Young's modulus. There is reasonable agreement between theory and experiment considering the assumptions made and the complexity of the 3D fabric structure. The deviation is less with high performance multifilament fibers in the warp and bias yarns.
Novel Fluorinated Inorganic-Organic Finishing Materials for Nylon Carpeting
Authors: Satoh K. , Nakazumi H. , Morita M.
Published: March 2008

Fluorinated inorganic-organic finishing materials prepared by a sol-gel process using poly(methacrylic acid) (PMAA), tetraethoxysilane (TEos), and perfluoroalkyltriethoxy-silane are applied to nylon carpeting, and their performance is evaluated by means of the industry standards for water repellency, compressibility, surface friction, soil release, and flame resistance of the carpet. Surface modification is further characterized by x-ray photoelectron spectroscopy. The carpeting treated with the fluorinated sol-gel finishing agent exhibits higher water repellency and improved soil release and surface friction despite its low fluorine content. The fluorine component is thought to migrate to the coating-air interface of the carpet and agglomerate at the surface during the finishing process. PMAA, used as an organic component in carpeting, functions as an effective stain blocker, preventing dyeing from acid dyes. Results indicate that fluorinated sol-gel finishing agents are useful for multiple improvements in the properties of nylon carpeting.
The Sampling of Domestic Wool for Shrinkage Determination
Authors: Burns Robert H.
Published: March 2008

The terms shrinkage, yield, and clean content are de fined. The methods of obtaining shrinkages on lots of wool are explained. The research work completed with wool shrinkage tests in the past is reviewed.

The method of selecting the sub-lot and the samples from the sub-lot is described, and the methods of scouring at the laboratory and the mill are explained. The shrink ages of the small samples are compared with those of the sub-lot and the entire lot.

The grading and sorting of the sub-lots are compared with that of the entire lots. The grading of 10 bags, of five bags, and of every nth fleece is compared to that of an entire clip.

The grading of the first bag sheared from each band is found usually to be coarser than that of the last bag sheared from each band, and the cause is explained.

Figures are given for the percentage of grease in the scoured wool. The variations in shrinkage of samples drawn by different operators, and between the first and fourth samples drawn are given, and are found not to be significant.
Result Obtained by Use of an Oil-type Size on Viscose Rayon
Authors: Yelland William E.
Published: March 2008

A warp which had been slashed with an oil-type size wove very well in the loom, but the results obtained during the desizing and finishing of this warp were poor. The laboratory tests for break ing strength and cohesion indicated that over a period of time a change had taken place in the sized yarn. This change was evi dent as a marked decrease in the breaking strength of the yarn and in its resistance to abrasion. The poor results in finishing were attributed to changes occurring in the size during ageing. The be havior on ageing of sizes of this nature should therefore be in vestigated carefully before use, and too much confidence should not be placed in loom tests alone.
Some Mechanical Factors Influencing Size Application
Authors: Yelland William E.
Published: March 2008

Results presented in this article indicate that (1) at higher slashing speeds warps of 150 denier 40 filament bright viscose pick up less size than at lower speeds when the warp is completely im mersed in the size mix by means of an immersion roll.

(2) The use of a blanket on the squeeze roll (or of fewer weights on the squeeze roll) causes more size to be taken up by the warp than when the squeeze roll is bare. No difference in size dis tribution on the yarn was detected in this case. The use of a blanket on the squeeze roll also increases the drying requirements of the warp.
Factors Influencing Flocculation and Precipitation. Influence of Initial Particle Size
Authors: Beavers Ellington M. , Magoffin James E. , Cameron Frank K.
Published: March 2008

It has been found that the following properties of flocculated suspensions of bentonite are dependent upon initial degree of dis persion : (a) the shape and form of the floc produced; and conse quently, (b). the rate of settling of the dispersed phase through a given distance; (c) the extent to which the particle charge is low ered by a fixed amount of coagulating agent; (d) the adsorbability and solubility effect.

A general equation has been developed for the type of "com pression settling" observed here, which has been shown to be ap plicable to these data.

Some of the physical properties of the suspending media have been studied, and it has been suggested that still other variable factors (possibly changes of surface phase), which should be in vestigated, have an integral part in the flooculation process.

The various factors studied are discussed as to their influence on flocculation, and previously observed sedimentation behavior of similar suspensions is explainable on the basis of the conclusions drawn.
Relation of Warp Sizing to Loom Efficiency
Authors: Yelland William E.
Published: March 2008

In a test covering a period of eight weeks the average loom efficiency of a group of looms was 90.4%. A careful analysis of the data collected during this test showed that the largest single cause of warp breaks was balling-up in back of the reed, which accounted for 23.1% of the warp stops or 10.1% of the total loom stops. If to this are added the number of other breaks occurring at the reed, i.e., those not due to balling-up, and the number of breaks due to frayed yarn, we have all the stops which can be con sidered as being caused by size failure. The results of this test showed that 37.59% of the warp stops, or 16.39% of the total loom stops, could be attributed in this way to size failure.

Moreover, supplementary tests showed that the time required to repair a warp break was approximately 2.19 times as long as that required for a filling break. So the failure of the warp size is an appreciable factor in the loss of loom efficiency even when the sizing is considered satisfactory by the weave room.

Next to size failure, knots were the most important source of warp stops. They accounted for 14.75% of the total loom stops.

Filling stops formed a large percentage: 56.37% of the total loom stops. Although this is an important cause of loss in weav ing efficiency it is not as large as it might first appear to be, because of the fact that the average filling break takes less than one-half of the time required for repairing a warp break.
The Disposal of Textile Wastes with Domestic Sewage
Authors: Horton Robert K. , Baity Herman G.
Published: March 2008

Disposal of textile wastes with domestic sewage appears log ical since it reduces the capital outlay for plant facilities, places all treatment under constant and skilled supervision, and elimi nates many chances of neglect and mismanagement by mill labor. Of the many problems arising from combined treatment the most important is the character of sewage reaching the disposal plant. Equalization and regulation of discharge of industrial wastes are necessary to prevent rapid change in environmental conditions for the bacteria and other organisms carrying on purification proc esses. Reduction of waste volume and recovery of by-products should be employed wherever practical. Preliminary treatment, including nentralization, chemical precipitation, and aeration is sometimes necessary to lessen the load applied to biological proc esses. The activated sludge process and biological filters employing recirculation of the effluent can be used successfully to treat textile wastes-domestic sewage mixtures. The activated sludge process removes color better, but it is more easily upset by variations in the character of the waste. In general, digester capacity will have to be increased when treating textile wastes with domestic sewage. The successful treatment of textile wastes in conjunction with domestic sewage calls upon the operator for the highest type of service. By means of adequate control and adjustment of the various, processes excellent results are obtainable.
A Better Day
Authors: Woolf Douglas G.
Published: March 2008

"We have lived and we are living in a rotten world.... Only by handling the old structure roughly, only by con quering our inertia, only by daring to venture on new ways, can we hope to see a better day."
The Story of Coated Fabrics
Authors: Tuttle Francis J.
Published: March 2008

The evolution of methods for the manufacture of coated fabrics has fol lowed a sequence as the three main classes of raw materials became avail able, commencing with vegetable oils and leading to the modern synthetic resins. Much of the current technique follows closely some of the practices de scrib ed in these articles. Part 1, which described the development of oil cloth, appeared in July TEXTILE RESEARCH. The following article concludes the series.
Sizing of Spun Viscose Warp Yarns
Authors: Shinn W.E. , Biggers Paul T.
Published: March 2008

This is the last of a series of papers which describe certain parts of a program, of research on warp sizing conducted by Textile Research Institute, Inc. Part I— "Effect of Stretch in Slashing," and Part II—"Abrasion Testing of Sized Warp Yarns," appeared in the January, 1945, issue of this JOURNAL. Parts III and IV— "Application of Synthesize" and "Application of Methyl Cellulose," were presented in the February issue. A summary report of the entire program of research on the sizing of spun rayon warp yarns will be ready for distribution about May 1.
Effect of Tire Cord Uniformity on the Strength of Tire Fabrics
Authors: Philipp Howard J.
Published: March 2008

The strength of tire fabrics, which largely determines tire carcass strength, is dependent not only upon the average strength of the tire cords of which the fabric is made but also upon their uniformity. The degree of uniformity can be meas ured by the coefficient of variation of strength and of elongation, but such data do not, by themselves, show directly the influence of tire cord uniformity on fabric strength. Various methods of estimating the effective strength of tire cord are discussed. A formula is presented which permits a simple calculation of the effec tive cord strength from the coefficient of variation of cord strength. The various methods show a satisfactory degree of correlation. The effective cord strength of several rayon and cotton tire cords has been calculated.
Counting Thin-Walled Fibers in Cotton by Polarized Light
Authors: Calkins Edward W. S.
Published: March 2008

A method is described which classifies as thin-walled only 10 to 15 percent of the fibers in normal American Upland cotton instead of the 30 percent usually found by the ASTM caustic-soda method. From studies of neps this appears to be a more reasonable standard and the author's experience has shown that it is one on which different operators can agree more readily and to which they adhere more consistently than to the artificial criterion of a two-to-one lumen-to-wall ratio called for by the ASTM method.
Fiber from Peanut Protein
Authors: Merrifield A.L. , Pomes A.F.
Published: March 2008

Research at the Southern Regional Research Laboratory has resulted in the de velopment of a fiber produced from peanut protein which has been named Sarelon. This fiber is light-cream-colored in its natural state and possesses a soft hand and a warmth similar to that of wool. It possesses an affinity for dyes normally used on protein fibers and may be dyed with vat and direct cotton dyes. Its major weak ness, like that of all synthetic protein fibers, is its low strength.
Mechanics of Elastic Performance of Textile Materials
Authors: Hamburger Walter J.
Published: March 2008

The factors which affect the textile quality usually known as resilience are discussed, and a normalized co efficient is derived which quantitatively expresses the degree of resilience of textile fibers. Use of the term "elastic performance," rather than "resilience," is sug gested. The dependence of elastic performance upon the fundamental load-deformation properties of textile ma terials is considered and it is demonstrated that the elastic performance coefficient reflects the effect of immediate-elastic, primary-creep, and secondary-creep deflections.

The coefficient is indicated to be applicable to all types of loading: tension, compression, bending, torsion, etc. All that is required for its calculation is a load-deforma tion diagram under uniform, controlled cyclical loading and unloading.

Data are presented upon the tensional elastic per formance of two different materials—continuous filament acetate rayon and fully drawn nylon—under various magnitudes of tension loading. Variations in elastic performance with yarn geometry—that is, twist—are given for the acetate rayon yarn.

The evaluation of elastic performance under com pression and other types of loading will be presented in a future paper.
Water Sorption and the Poly-Phase Structure of Cellulose Fibers
Authors: Howsmon John A.
Published: March 2008

Many of the methods used to study the fine structure of cellulose are tedious and not suitable for routine use. In the present work, an equilibrium moisture regain method which can be carried out on a large scale with a high degree of accuracy has been developed. The method is illustrated by a wide variety of cellulose materials covering a wide range of moisture sorption capacity. The terms "accessibility" and "crystallinity" are discussed and possible errors arising from assumed equivalence of these terms are pointed out. A preliminary attempt to evaluate both accessibility and crystallinity of cellulose from moisture regain data has been made. This evaluation results in a proposed revision of the scale of reported crystallinities of various types of cellulose.

The hydrolysis method for studying cellulose accessibility has been compared with moisture regain and x-ray diffraction methods. It is proposed that recrystallization of cellulose during hydrolysis is a determining factor in this method and, therefore, that published data obtained from hydrolytic studies should be reconsidered.
A Comparison of Fiber Tensile Values Obtained on the Pressley Tester and Scott IP-4 at Different Test Speeds
Authors: Phillips J.K.
Published: March 2008

A comparison was made of fiber tensile values obtained on the Scott IP-4 machine and the Pressley Tester at their normal test speeds and also at comparable test speeds. The effect of elapsed time to break on the strength of fibrous materials was shown to be very great at the test speeds normally used on the Pressley Tester as compared to those on the Scott IP-4 machine.
The Autoxidation of Alkali Cellulose
Authors: Entwistle D. , Cole E.H. , Wooding N.S.
Published: March 2008

The previous paper in this series discussed the uncatalyzed autoxidation of alkali cellulose and suggested that the reaction proceeds via a chain mechanism involving transient free radicals. The present paper describes the effect of certain transition metal catalysts on the kinetics of oxygen absorption and cellulose depolymerization. It is further shown that the reaction is subject to catalysis by substances which generate free radicals and by the presence of certain other autoxidizable substances. Silver and gold compounds behave as inhibitors, as do some typical organic antioxidants. The results provide further evidence for the free-radical chain character of the reaction. Possible depolymerization processes are discussed in terms of this approach.
Pore-Size Distribution in Textiles-A Study of Windproof and Water-Resistant Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Wakeham Helmut , Spicer Nancy
Published: March 2008

A modified method for evaluating the distribution of pore spaces within a textile fabric, based on the principle outlined in the preceding paper in this series [1], is described. Data are reported for 14 tight fabrics, 6 of which had been treated with a water-repellent finish. The porosities of these fabrics are compared with the results of air- and hydrostatic-permeability measurements.