bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Alleviating stress in residency training through enhanced communication: A practical guide
Authors: Bost Richard H.
Published: February 2019

Stress is an inherent component of residency training and its effect on healthcare provided is well documented. Although stress-related signs and symptoms are easily recognized, residents and trainers are likely to ignore them-until a crisis occurs. Based on the theory that good communication alleviates stress, the "I" Language Model, discussed in this article, is designed to enhance communication between residents and their superiors, colleagues, and families. As such, it is meant to provide one means of intervention before stress affects the resident's on-the-job performance.
Snake venom NAD glycohydrolases: primary structures, genomic location, and gene structure
Authors: Koludarov Ivan , Aird Steven D.
Published: February 2019

NAD glycohydrolase (EC 3.2.2.5) (NADase) sequences have been identified in 10 elapid and crotalid venom gland transcriptomes, eight of which are complete. These sequences show very high homology, but elapid and crotalid sequences also display consistent differences. As inAplysia kurodaiADP-ribosyl cyclase and vertebrate CD38 genes, snake venom NADase genes comprise eight exons; however, in theProtobothrops mucrosquamatusgenome, the sixth exon is sometimes not transcribed, yielding a shortened NADase mRNA that encodes all six disulfide bonds, but an active site that lacks the catalytic glutamate residue. The function of this shortened protein, if expressed, is unknown. While many vertebrate CD38s are multifunctional, liberating both ADP-ribose and small quantities of cyclic ADP-ribose (cADPR), snake venom CD38 homologs are dedicated NADases. They possess the invariant TLEDTL sequence (residues 144–149) that bounds the active site and the catalytic residue, Glu228. In addition, they possess a disulfide bond (Cys121–Cys202) that specifically prevents ADP-ribosyl cyclase activity in combination with Ile224, in lieu of phenylalanine, which is requisite for ADPR cyclases. In concert with venom phosphodiesterase and 5′-nucleotidase and their ecto-enzyme homologs in prey tissues, snake venom NADases comprise part of an envenomation strategy to liberate purine nucleosides, and particularly adenosine, in the prey, promoting prey immobilization via hypotension and paralysis.
Genetic alteration of histone lysine methyltransferases and their significance in renal cell carcinoma
Authors: Yan Libin , Zhang Yangjun , Ding Beichen , Zhou Hui , Yao Weimin , Xu Hua
Published: February 2019

Background

Histone lysine methyltransferases (HMTs), a category of enzymes, play essential roles in regulating transcription, cellular differentiation, and chromatin construction. The genomic landscape and clinical significance of HMTs in renal cell carcinoma (RCC) remain uncovered.

Methods

We conducted an integrative analysis of 50 HMTs in RCC and discovered the internal relations among copy number alterations (CNAs), expressive abundance, mutations, and clinical outcome.

Results

We confirmed 12 HMTs with the highest frequency of genetic alterations, including seven HMTs with high-level amplification, two HMTs with somatic mutation, and three HMTs with putative homozygous deletion. Patterns of copy number and expression varied among different subtypes of RCC, including clear cell renal cell carcinoma, papillary cell carcinoma, and chromophobe renal carcinoma. Kaplan–Meier survival analysis and multivariate analysis identified that CNA or mRNA expression in some HMTs were significantly associated with shorter overall patient survival. Systematic analysis identified six HMTs (ASH1L, PRDM6, NSD1, EZH2, WHSC1L1, SETD2) which were dysregulated by genetic alterations as candidate therapeutic targets.

Discussion

In summary, our findings strongly evidenced that genetic alteration of HMTs may play an important role in generation and development of RCC, which lays a solid foundation for the mechanism for further research in the future.
Quantitative color profiling of digital images with earth mover’s distance using the R package colordistance
Authors: Weller Hannah I. , Westneat Mark W.
Published: February 2019

Biological color may be adaptive or incidental, seasonal or permanent, species- or population-specific, or modified for breeding, defense or camouflage. Although color is a hugely informative aspect of biology, quantitative color comparisons are notoriously difficult. Color comparison is limited by categorization methods, with available tools requiring either subjective classifications, or expensive equipment, software, and expertise. We present an R package for processing images of organisms (or other objects) in order to quantify color profiles, gather color trait data, and compare color palettes on the basis of color similarity and amount. The package treats image pixels as 3D coordinates in a “color space,” producing a multidimensional color histogram for each image. Pairwise distances between histograms are computed using earth mover’s distance, a technique borrowed from computer vision, that compares histograms using transportation costs. Users choose a color space, parameters for generating color histograms, and a pairwise comparison method to produce a color distance matrix for a set of images. The package is intended as a more rigorous alternative to subjective, manual digital image analyses, not as a replacement for more advanced techniques that rely on detailed spectrophotometry methods unavailable to many users. Here, we outline the basic functions of colordistance, provide guidelines for the available color spaces and quantification methods, and compare this toolkit with other available methods. The tools presented for quantitative color analysis may be applied to a broad range of questions in biology and other disciplines.
LAMINAR DAMPING OF OSCILLATORY WAVES DUE TO BOTTOM FRICTION
Authors: Iwagaki Yuichi , Tsuchiya Yoshito
Published: February 2019

The purpose of this paper is to discover the mechanism of the laminar damping of oscillatory waves due to bottom friction with the aid of the theory of the laminar boundary layer due to waves and of the measurements of instantaneous shearing stresses exerted on a smooth bottom, resulting from wave motion and wave amplitude attenuation with distance. In a theoretical approach the effects of convective terms involved in the basic equations of laminar boundary layers developing both on the bottom and the side walls of a wave channel, are considered on the basis of an approximate solution of the equation, and a theory of the laminar damping of Airy waves is established. In experimental studies, furthermore, direct measurements of instantaneous stresses and observations of wave amplitude attenuation were performed, and the experimental results are compared with both the above theory and the linearized one.
DIFFRACTION OF WIND GENERATED WATER WAVES
Authors: Mobarek Ismail E. , Wiegel Robert L.
Published: February 2019

In designing a harbor an engineer must consider the diffraction of waves. In most studies, only uniform periodic waves coming from a single direction are treated. However, wind generated waves in the ocean are two dimensional, and the diffraction of waves due to a breakwater should be treated with this in mind. As methods of measuring the two-dimensional spectra of waves were developed recently, it was decided to determine whether or not diffraction theory could be applied with sufficient accuracy for two-dimensional wave spectra. The results of a laboratory study presented herein show that a knowledge of the two-dimensional spectra can be used together with diffraction theory to predict the energy spectra of waves in the lee of a breakwater within an accuracy that is probably acceptable for many engineering problems.
WAVE DECAYING DUE TO BREAKING
Authors: Nakamura Makoto , Shiraishi Hidehiko , Sasaki Yasuo
Published: February 2019

In the planning and design of coastal engineering works for the control of beach characteristics, a proper and effective measure against wave must be the most important problem to be solved. When the wave generated on the open sea approaches the shallow sea area, it will be transformed under the influence of sea bottom. For the construction works of coastal structures on a shoreline or in shallow water, the estimation of the rate of wave transformation is needed. In this concern, many reports were already published by the researchers,i. e, R.L.Wiegel, M.A.Mason,H.W. Iversen and T.Kishi. Moreover, the so-called Breaker Index which shows the breaking conditions has been obtained by the Beach Erosion Bord (U.S.A.), based on the data of field observations. Furthermore, these characteristics were investigated theoretically and experimentally by H.W. Iversen, Hamada, Sato and Kishi. Though these results show the wave transformation from the deep sea to a breaking point, there are few reports dealing with the wave transformation in the process of breaking and after a breaker zone. In the execution of coastal works projected in Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry such as shore reclamation works, coastal defence works and river mouth improvement, the wave inshore from a breaker zone often should be taken into consideration. In the past design of coastal structure, the wave acting on structures in the shallow water is calculated from the deep sea wave usually by using very rough estimation that wave height is reduced by about 30 per cent after a single breaking and wave period by about 10 per cent. Consequently, in order to analyze the wave decaying due to breaking, this paper treated with the wave transformation in the vicinity of a breaking point.
A THEORY ON THE FETCH GRAPH, THE ROUGHNESS OF THE SEA AND THE ENERGY TRANSFER BETWEEN WIND AND WAVE
Authors: Hino Mikio
Published: February 2019

It is the aim of this paper to give theoretical derivations of the windwave characteristics from a viewpoint of fundamental mechanism of wind-wave generation. A hypothesis is proposed as a basic principle of the air-sea interaction, which asserts the maximum ratio of the energy transfer from wind to wave to the energy dissipation within wind. As the theoretical consequences of the hypothesis combined with the recent theories on wind-wave spectra by Miles and Phillips, wind-wave characteristics such as the fetch graph, the roughness of the sea, the spectral peak frequency, the ratio of pressure contribution to total drag and the energy transfer from wind to wave are derived with remarkable agreements with experimental data.
THE SHOALING, BREAKING AND RUNUP OP THE SOLITARY WAVE ON IMPERMEABLE ROUGH SLOPES
Authors: Kishi Tsutomu , Saeki Hiroshi
Published: February 2019

Variations m wave characteristics for solitary waves in shoaling water are discussed. The transition of wave character from the solitary wave to the bore is basic to the understanding of the problem. Experimental curves representing the transformation of wave height prior to breaking as well as the curves giving the breaker conditions are presented. Theories for the transformation of wave height after breaking and the prediction of the plunge point are presented and compared favorably with the laboratory measurements. Runup heights and wave quantities at the shoreline are measured to compare with the theory of a bore on a dry bed.
WAVE RUN-UP AMD OVBRTOPPINC ON COASTAL DIKES
Authors: Tominaga Yasuteru , Hashimoto Hiroshi , Sakuma Noboru
Published: February 2019

The experimental results of wave run-up and overtopping on coastal dikes with a steep seaside slope are presented. Wave run-up heights are calculated by regarding to the crest height of standing wave m none breaking zone and to the reflected bore height m breaking zone. The calculated values indicate good agreement with the experimental results. As for wave overtopping, the experimental results are mainly discussed with regard to the effect of wave breaker to overtopping phenomena.
TRANSFORMATION OP SURGES
Authors: Murota Akira
Published: February 2019

This paper deals with the transient deformation of surges (bores) both theoretically and experimentally. Ideal surges in open channels would normally disperse into periodic waves and be transformed to the undular bore. A train of these dispersive waves may finally reach some stable form e.g. solitary or cnoidal vwaves. In the transient process, with the development of the undulations, the height of the initial wave would not be constant as has been suggested by Keulegan-Patterson(19il-0), but would fluctuate in a complicated manner. The author indicates, theoretically, regions in which wave crests or troughs can exist and gives experimental criteria by which modes of breaking (spilling, surging or plunging) can be determined. He also believes that the curvature of the wave surface plays a leading role in the mechanism of dispersion and may act as a convective agent in the development of the undulation.
DYNAMICS OF WIND IN THE VICINITY OF PROGRESSIVE WAVES
Authors: Shemdin Omar H. , Hsu En Yun
Published: February 2019

This paper presents a fundamental study of the dynamics of wind in the vicinity of progressive water waves. The normal pressure distribution and the structure of the velocity profile immediately above progressive water waves are investigated. A wind-wave facility 115 feet long, 74J4 inches high, and 35^ inches wide is used which is equipped with an oscillatmg-plate wave generator. Velocities up to 80 fps can be obtained at a nominal water depth of 3 feet. An oscillating device (or wave follower) was designed and built, on which a pressure sensor could be mounted and could be held at a fixed distance (within % inch) above progressive water waves at all times. The results indicate that a pressure shift does exist as predicted by Miles [1957] within the assumptions of the theory. Furthermore, the results demonstrate clearly the importance of using a pressure sensor which follows the water surface in obtaining meaningful pressures at the air-water interface. Mean velocity profiles with and without mechanically generated waves were obtained. Contrary to what is normally assumed, the results indicate that the boundary layer in the vicinity of water waves is affected by the presence of waves.
ON A COEXISTENCE SYSTEM OF FLOW AMD WAVES
Authors: Matsunashi Junzaburo
Published: February 2019

It is a well known experimental fact that the undulation such as sand-ripples or antidunes are formed on the bed surface composed of fine sand, corresponding to the flow characteristics of open channel flow.O In this case, as the mechanical effects of the bed undulationes stated above, a kind of periodic motion is superposed on the flow, and accordingly the water surface undulates periodically. On the other hand, the mechanical effects of this surface undulationes are surperposed on these undulating bed surfaces as another kind of periodic motion. The wave generated in open sea propagates upstream through an estuary. Accordingly the incoming wave is superposed on the flow stated above as a forced oscillation. Both of these phenomena are in the coexistence system of flow and waves in the open channel flow. In this paper, as the first step to study the subjects stated above, the author treats the problem of the coexistence system in the case when the forced oscillation of water surface is superposed on the open channel flow with fixed bed, and analyzes theoretically and experimentally the mechanical properties of the reciprocal action between flow and waves.
MODEL STUDIES OF IMPULSIVELY-GENERATED WATER WAVES
Authors: Jordaan Jan M.
Published: February 2019

The wave action due to a sudden impulse in a body of water was studied in a wave basin with beach in the laboratory. Waves were impulsively generated in the 90 ft. tank of water, 3 ft. deep, by the impact or sudden withdrawal of a paraboloidal plunger 14 ft. in diameter. The waves had a dominant height of 2 inches and period of 3 seconds, respectively, at a distance of 50 ft. from the plunger. Such waves are scale representations of those generated by sudden impulses in the ocean, such as an underwater nuclear explosion, a sudden change in the ocean bed due to earthquakes, or the impact of a land slide. The waves produced by a downward impulse, or by an underwater explosion, form a dispersive system: whose properties are not constant as in a uniform progressive wave train. Wave periodicities, celerities and wave lengths increase with time of travel and wave heights decrease with travel distance. Theory has already been developed to predict the wave properties at a given travel time and distance for given source energy, displacement and travel path depth profile (Jordaan 1965). Measurements agree fairly well with predictions.
SEDIMENT TRANSPORT & ACCRETION ABOUND THE COASTLINES OF JAPAN
Authors: Silvester Richard
Published: February 2019

The process of sedimentation can be traced from its initiation as weathering of base rock, transport to the ocean by rivers, and its distribution by waves. The sediment supplied by a river is dependent upon catchment characteristics - topography, precipitation, vegetation and geology. The grading of this sediment can change over geologic time. The transport of material by waves is an important aspect of this overall movement, to a destination of either coastal plain or offshore shoal. The persistent occurrence and direction of ocean swell make this wave domain the most important in this process. In enclosed seas littoral drift is effected by storm type waves, per medium of a different beach profile from that on oceanic margins. Accepting that the wave climate has not changed significantly over geologic time, it is possible to picture the geomorphology of river and coastal plains to the present continental outline. The coastlines of Japan are examined in this paper with such an emphasis. Lowland so formed is of extreme economic importance. In order to promote accretion of further areas on a large scale, the character of the sediment and of the natural forces available at any location must be considered. Suitable structures and their siting within natural shoreline features are discussed.
SYSTEMATIC MEASUREMENTS ALONG THE DUTCH COAST
Authors: Edelman T.
Published: February 2019

Since more than a century some features of the Dutch beach have been measured systematically* Some characteristics of the coast, which could be derived from these valuable series of data, are discussed in this paper. Since 1963 a new and largely extended program of measurements has been established, that will produce, every year, more than one million of numbers. It is hardly possible to handle such a huge quantity of data in the conventional manner; mechanical handling by means of modern computers becomes necessary. A short description is given how this is done and how it will perhaps be done in the near future.
LONGSHORE CURRENTS AND NEARSHORE TOPOGRAPHIES
Authors: Sonu Choule J. , McCloy James M. , McArthur David S.
Published: February 2019

Validity of seven analytical formula as well as linear and non-linear multiple regressive schemes was tested using field data from the Outer Banks, North Carolina. Generally, agreement proved unsatisfactory. Field experiences indicate that the longshore current is a velocity field consisting of a multitude of velocity vectors whose basic pattern varies depending upon the regimes of wavecurrent- topography interaction. The need to recognize topography as a responding variable as well as a process variable in the physical scheme of longshore current is emphasized.
MODEL STUDY ON THE CHANGE OP SHORELINE OF SANDY BEACH BY IHE OFFSHORE BREAKWATER
Authors: Shinohara Kinji , Tsubaki Tooichiro
Published: February 2019

This paper presents some results of experiment made to clarify the changes of shoreline taken place by the construction of offshore breakwater, the amount of sand deposits within the region sheltered by the breakwater and the sand movement at the sandy beach through the progress of beach deformation up to the accomplishment of the equilibrium profile. The initial profiles are made by the waves of two kinds of wave steepness it = 0.0192 and Oe = 0.0461 and the new equilibrium profile of sandy beach is formed by sending again the wave of the same steepness in the state of existence of offshore breakwater.
MODEL STUDY ON THE FILLING-UP OF A FISHERY HARBOR BX DRIFTING SAND
Authors: Noda Hideaki
Published: February 2019

This paper is concerned with certain field investigations and model experiments whose purpose was both to discover the mechanism of the movement of coastal material and its deposition m harbor basins and to consider some protective measures which might be taken against the fillmg-up of basins by drifting sand. From view point of similarity for the falling velocity of bottom materials, vinyl pellets were used as the model sediment. In experiments the height of the deposition of sediment was measured, together with the direction and velocity of currents, while m various cases the wave height inside and outside the harbor was measured as a means of elucidating the behavior of drifting sand as it fills up a hart or basin. It is concluded from these experiments that the fillmg-up of a harbor basin can be reproduced quantitatively in a model and that currents induced in basins by waves and harbor oscillations may have an important bearing on the problem of fillmg-up.
FIELD INVESTIGATION ON SAND DRIFT AT PORT KASHD.IA FACING THE PACIFIC OCEAN
Authors: Sato Shoji , Tanaka Norio
Published: February 2019

Port Kashima has been constructed since 1963 on the coast of Kashimanada located north-east of Tokyo. Fig. 1 is the general plan of Port Kashima showing the layout of breakwaters and inner basins. The length of south and north breakwaters will be 2,800 and 1,380 m, respectively. The depth of fairway will be 16 m below L.L.W.L. (lowest low water level) aiming to accomodate 100,000 ton class vessels. The coast of Kashimanada is a bowshaped sandy beach of some 70 km long facing the Pacific Ocean; Naka River flowed out at the north end and Tone River at the south end, as shown in Fig. 2. The northern portion has a narrow beach with the cliff of Kashima Plateau behind it and the southern portion is of alluvium zone by Tone River with the sand dunes. Port Kashima is being constructed at about 25 km north from the south end of Kashimanada Coast and this place is geologically called as the south alluvium zone. In the coast around Kashima Port, there runs a sand dune along the coast. The crest of this dune is about 8 m above L.L.W.L. in elevation. The back shore in front of the dune is 50-80 m in width and 3-4 m above L.L.W.L. in elevation. There are alongshore bars at 100-150 m seaward from the shore line on a usual day and at T00-400 m on a stormy day in beach profile. The bottom materials are composed of mainly fine sand and the mean spring tide range is about 1.4 m. The wave, large or small, attacks this coast every day. From the above-mentioned, the sand drift should be estimated to be remarkable at the constructing site of the harbor. Therefore, the field investigation concerning sand drift has been conducted since tow years before the beginning of the works of harbor construction. In this paper, a few recent investigations will be presented in detail, after a brief description of main field investigations conducted until 1965*
TRANSPORT PATTERNS IN THE CHAP PHYA ESTUARY
Authors: Allersma E. , Hoekstra A.J. , Bijker E.W.
Published: February 2019

Present day's society asks for ever larger engineering works to be carried out in estuaries. The developing techniques of dredging and construction allow for great interventions in the natural phenomena with often far reaching consequences. The whole intricate system of transports of water, salt and sediments may be drastically changed,affecting the existing quasi-static equilibria between sedimentation and erosion. For the planning of such works a thorough knowledge of the estuarme hydrology is indispensable. The port of Bangkok, the mam gateway for traffic into Thailand, is situated in the estuary of the Chao Phya river (figure 1). Increasing navigation demands improvement of the harbour and its 55 km long approach channel but the interests of agriculture and municipal water supply must also be taken into account. The Netherlands Engineering Consultants (NEDECO) m combination with the Delft Hydraulics Laboratory have made a four-years study of the estuary covering a field survey and a hydraulic model test. The observations in nature served to obtain insight into the estuarme transport pattern m relation with the boundary conditions given by the regimen of the river and the state of the sea. The small scale tests gave indications of the changes in these phenomena to be expected from alterations of the situation m the estuary and of the discharge characteristics of the river. The field survey was carried out from 1961 to 1965 with four fully equipped survey vessels to measure current velocities (60,000 times) to take samples of water and sediments, to measure wave heights and for echo-soundings. In a laboratory the samples of water (70,000) and sediments were tested as to silt concentration, salinity and soil-mechanical properties. Together with meteorological, oceanographical and hydrological data from cooperating local authorities a picture was obtained of the phenomena in the estuary and the causes of the siltation m the dredged channel.
LITTORAL BYPASSING AND BEACH RESTORATION IN THE VICINITY OF FORT HUENEME CALIFORNIA
Authors: Herron William J. , Harris Robert L.
Published: February 2019

Port Hueneme Harbor, California, constructed in 19^0, resulted in the average annual erosion of 1,200,000 cubic yards from the shoreline downcoast of the harbor. The cause was diversion by the north jetty of the harbor of littoral sand movement into the Hueneme canyon, A sand bypass system was established in i960 - 6l by construction, one mile upcoast, of Channel Islands Harbor fronted by an offshore breakwater 2,300 feet in length and located on the 30-foot-depth contour. This breakwater serves a dual function of sheltering the harbor entrance and acting as a littoral sand trap. Three cycles of biennial littoral sand bypassing havebeen successfully completed resulting in supply of 11,000,000 cubic yards of sand to the eroding shoreline at an average annual cost of $0.40 per cubic yard, including annual maintenance and amortization of structures. Comparison of design of the structure to the impounding characteristics experienced during three bypass cycles indicates that the dimensions and capacity of a sand trap formed by an offshore breakwater can be based upon the diffraction patterns of prevailing wave trains at the two ends of the structure and is independent of the depth and dimensions of the entrapment area. Rate of impoundment is equal to the rate of littoral drift at Port Hueneme.
A PROBABLE LEVEL OF WAVE CREST FOR THE DESIGN OF COASTAL STRUCTURES
Authors: Kubo Masafumi , Takezawa Mitsup
Published: February 2019

The height of sea water level in front of a coastal structure changes by the astronomical tide, the meteorological effect and the short period wave. From three histograms of the astronomical tide, meteorological tide and wave height, the probable level of wave crest in the coast will be estimated by the method presented in this paper.
DEPOSITIONAL BEHAVIOR OF FINE SEDIMENT IN A TURBULENT FLUID MOTION
Authors: Partheniadis Emmanuel , Kennedy John F.
Published: February 2019

An experimental investigation, utilizing an apparatus consisting of a counterrotating annular channel and ring, of the depositional characteristics of fine, cohesive sediment revealed that after an initial period of rapid deposition, the sediment concentration approaches asymptotically an equilibrium value. The ratio of this equilibrium concentration to the initial concentration is nearly independent of initial concentration and for a given sediment and environment depends only on the flow conditions. For the three water depths investigated, the ratio of equilibrium to initial concentration was found to he a single function of an average shear stress around the channel-section perimeter. A comparison of the size distributions of the parent material with the material retained in suspension when equilibrium was achieved indicated that the greatest losses occur in the clay-size fractions, suggesting that the deposition is controlled predominantly by flocculation, and that the strength and size of the floes exert a stronger influence on the deposition than does the particle weight. A silty-clay sediment with a mean particle diameter of 0.0009 mm was used in all experiments.
EMPLOI DES TRACEURS RADIOACTIFS POUR ETODIER L'EVOLUTION D'UN NUAGE DE VASE DANS UN ESTUAIRE
Authors: Bonnefille Rene , Heuzel Marcel , Pernecker Leopold
Published: February 2019

Dans le chenal d'acces de la Gironde, le Port Autonome de Bordeaux effectue contlnuellement des dragages pour assurer la navigation dans l'estuaire. La rentabilite de ces travaux depend de la distance du lieu de dragage et de 1'emplacement du depfit. Sur la demande du Port Autonome de Bordeaux, le Laboratoire National d'Hydraulique a effectue' avec le Commissariat a l'Energie Atomique, Section des Applications des Radioslements, une campagne de traceurs radioactifs dans l'estuaire de la Gironde (figure 1) dans le but d'^tudier le cheminement des produits de dragage lfich^s a partir des puits d'une drague. Le nuage radioactif ainsi form£ fut ensuite suivi a l'aide de bateaux munis d'appareillage de detection.
MATHEMATICAL SIMULATION OF BOTTOM SEDIMENT MOTION BY WAVES
Authors: Kamphuis J.W.
Published: February 2019

A mathematical model is developed to calculate the amount of bottom sediment moved by wave action. The simplified case of a horizontal bottom and spherical material of uniform size is presented here; however, with some further groundwork it is thought that the model may be extended to actual field conditions without too much difficulty.
WAVE DAMPING IN HARBORS
Authors: Lee Charles E.
Published: February 2019

The purpose of harbors is to give the maximum shelter to vessels to prevent damage or allow greatest ease in loading or unloading. Small craft are most effected by short period waves, while commercial craft are more effected by long period waves or surge. Small craft require that the wave action be reduced to about 1 foot or less in height to prevent damage at moorings. To obtain quietness within the harbor, it is essential to prevent energy from entering the harbor, or, by absorbing it, after it enters. Energy can enter through three sources: through the entrance, by overtopping, or by transmission through the structures. The entrance to the harbor should be made as small as possible to reduce the amount of energy entering yet it must be wide enough to provide navigation ease and safety. The optimum width of the entrance depends on the type of harbor, the amount of traffic, size of the vessels, and entrance conditions. Assuming the layout of the harbor structures as being fixed, several methods may be used to obtain maximum quietness. Porous breakwaters may be sealed. If a narrow channel is feasible, flat channel side-slopes protected by a rubble cover layer will dissipate a large portion of the energy. Wave energy reaching the interior may be absorbed by suitably placed stone wave absorbers or dissipators. Discussion of some recent pertinent studies follows.
RESEARCHES ON STEEL-PIPE BREAKWATER
Authors: Nagai S.
Published: February 2019

As a new type of vertical-wall breakwater built in soft ground a breakwater, composed of a single row of large steel pipes with diameters of some 1.5 to 3.0 meters driven into a sea bottom, has been proposed for the water areas where are not directly exposed to a great ocean. Experiments for the fundamental study were conducted in the medium wave channel of the hydraulic laboratory in Osaka City University, and model experiments were performed for practical design of the steel pipe breakwater planned to build in the Port of Osaka at a 1/10 scale in the large wave tank in the Field Hydraulic Laboratory.
A NOTE ON THE DEVELOPMENT OF WIND WAVES IN AN EXPERIMENT
Authors: Hamada Tokuichi , Shibayama Akihiko , Kato Hajime
Published: February 2019

This is a note paper of experiment in an air-water experimental waterway. Two cases of the uniform depth of water 50 cm and of the uniform depth of water 15 cm are examined. The boundary condition for air flow is not changed. In a condition of almost the same discharge of air flow on the water surface, the development of wind waves is investigated. The properties of wind waves are slightly different in each case, but the analysis of physical mechanism of the development suggests that almost the same mechanism is active throughout both cases. Stillmore the portion of tangential stress, which is apparently transfered to wave momentum, is numerically obtained, and it is not so different in both cases of depth of water.
RESEARCHES ON DOUBLE CURTAIN WALL BREAKWATER
Authors: Tanaka Shigeru
Published: February 2019

It has been clarified by some researchers(R. L. Wiegel1 , F. Ursell", R. Morihira & S. Anezaki3), etc.) that the single curtain wall breakwater has no good wave-dissipating effect at the usual coastal area where the ratio of water-depth to wave-length is considerably small. The author has made researches concerning "Multiple Curtain Wall Breakwater", anticipating the supposition that it may be very effective for the dissipation of wave energy even at a shallow coastal zone, because of its peculiar effectiveness upon wave dissipation. Double curtain wall breakwater is composed of two parallel rows of curtain walls attached to the supporting props installed at an adequate interval. The interval of the said two rows is very important, and the determination of a proper interval, relating to a high wind wave having a definite length and a definite wave height, is one of the main objects of this research. These researches were mainly made experimentally. At first the author assumed that the design wave had the period of 5-6 sec, the length of 50 - 60 m and the height of 1.5 m. The results of the model experiment show that the double curtain wall breakwater, installed at the depth ranging 3 - 10 m, has remarkable effect on wave dissipation.Secondly the author selected a particular location on the north coast of Osaka Bay where the design wave has the period of 7 - 9 sec, the wave length of 65 - 70 m and the wave height of 3.8 - 4.0 m at offshore. At the expected site of thebreakwater, the sea bottom is flat and nearly horizontal, and the water depth under the condition of the extraordinary high tide is 10.5 m above the sea bottom, and an experiment was carried out by the model for this location. One kind of model was constructed in a shallow basin of 0.5 m x 25 m x 30 m, in the scale of 1 to 40 and of 1 to 70, in order to determine its transmission coefficient of wave height. Another kind of model was made in a glazed steel frame tank of 1.6 mx 1.8 m x 28 m, equipped with a piston type wave generator operated by 5 HP motor. The scale of this model is 1 to 10, and its purpose is to secure the surface disturbance and to trace the trajectories of small suspended particles by a 16 mm cine camera and a high speed motion camera.
PROTECTION AGAINST WAVE ACTION BASED ON HYDROELASTIC EFFECT
Authors: Molero F.
Published: February 2019

The authorfe conception on the mechanism of continuous slope protection under wave action (elements of flexible screen theory) are given in the paper in brief. Slope structures with continuous revetments are widely used in the Soviet Union, not only in canals but even in large reservoirs where waves reach nearly sea wave height. When ordinary design methods are used, strength and stability of the revetment is provided by its thickness increase, and an expensive filter layer is placed under the revetment, Though continuous revetments were expensive, slope structures proved to be cheaper and more reliable than other measures of protection against wave action. Now it appears that the revetment's stress conditions may be improved by reducing its thickness and eliarijaatiyjtfee filter layer. There are types of coverings, the flexibility of which contributes to the self-consolidation of sand soil, filling the voids, and reducing the effective wave pressure. There exists however a definite thickness minimum (critical rigidity) below which dangerous slope deformations occur. The various attempts to determine this critical rigidity are shortly reported below. Results of laboratory and field tests are given, permitting to get knowledge of physical processes occurring under the revetment and of structural features improving their reliability,
A SIMPLE MATHEMATICAL MODEL OP WAVE MOTION ON A RUBBLE MOUND BREAKWATER FRONT
Authors: Brandtzaeg Anton , Torum Alf
Published: February 2019

This paper is a continuation of a paper under the same title, presented at the Vlllth Conference in Mexico City, 1962, where a mathematical model was proposed, intended to give a rough idea of the order of magnitude of velocities and accelerations in the downrushmg wave on a rubble mound breakwater front. Here observations of 85 individual waves of various dimensions are presented and compared with the formulae derived from the model. Considerable scatter is evident, but it is concluded that the model does correspond roughly to the actual displacements of the water surface during downrush, and therefore may be expected to give useful indications also of velocities and accelerations. The importance of the slope of the surface is emphasized, and, within the scope of the tests, this slope seems to stand in linear relation to the wave steepness.
DAMPING EFFECT OF FLOATING BREAKWATER TO WHICH ANTI-ROLLING SYSTEM IS APPLIED
Authors: Kato Juichi , Hagino Seiya , Uekita Yukio
Published: February 2019

Among the recent problems in the fisheries in Japan, the development of fish farms is getting to be important. The breakwater for fish farms is required to have the functions of exchanging sea water and the preservation of fishing ground, as well as the outer facilities of finning ground.. Various types of breakwater to meet the requirements can be considered,the floating breakwater being one of them. When we limit the studies in the wave damping effect of a mobile breakwater, we can summarise that an effective floating breakwater should have sufficient draught under water surface and should have a comparatively large displaced water volume. In other words, the natural oscillation period of the floating body must be large enough as compared with that of the incident wave. (R. L.Wiegel '64) (K. Horikawa et al. '64) for practical purposes the studies on the shape and type must follow. However, if a floating breakwater is provided with a mechanism for attenuating wave, the above-mentioned criterion for the effectiveness must be largely changed.
A PERFORATED MOBILE BREAKWATER FOR FIXED AND FLOATING APPLICATION
Authors: Marks Wilbur
Published: February 2019

A mobile breakwater concept based upon a perforated front wall and solid back wall is presented. The principles of energy dissipation by the system is discussed as well as the potential role of such a device within the framework of practical application. Model test results, comparing the perforated breakwater's response to waves with that of a caisson-type breakwater, are discussed. It is shown that the perforated breakwater experiences less force on the structure when it is fixed to the bottom and less force on the mooring lines when afloat than the caisson-type. However, the perforated breakwater is not more effective in reducing waves, for the conditions tested. Visual observations show that scouring is prevalent when the caisson-type is fixed to the bottom; there is no evidence of scouring with the perforated breakwater. Recommendations are made for future work.
SHORE PROTECTION ON THE COAST OP "YAIZU"
Authors: Seo Goichi , Fukuchi Tatsuma
Published: February 2019

This report describes the history of beach erosion and the countermeasures against it extending over the last few centuries on the coast of "YAIZU" Pishing Port. It also includes a study on the causes of erosion by analysing geographical, topographical and oceanogrphical conditions of the coastal area.
OCEANOGRAPHIC CRITERIA FOR DESIGN OF SMALL CRAFT HARBORS
Authors: Timme Richard C.
Published: February 2019

The most important oceanographic criteria which are required in establishing the optimum design of a harbor complex for small craft harbors located adjacent to large bodies of water are: 1. Wave Statistics Incident to the Site. 2. Effects of Breakwaters or Jetties upon Incident Waves. 3. Design of Interior Configuration and Water Levels. 4. Littoral Processes at the Site.
THE HILO HARBOR TSUNAMI MODEL
Authors: Palmer Robert Q. , Funasaki Gerald T.
Published: February 2019

The city and harbor of Hilo, located on the northeast coast of the island of Hawaii, have been severely damaged by numerous tsunamis. It was decided that the best approach to arriving at a feasible solution to the problem would be by conducting hydraulic model studies. The purpose of this paper is to discuss the problems which were encountered prior to and during the model testing. Discussions will include such factors as the selection of the distorted model scale, the type of wave generator used in reproducing the tsunami bore, the test conditions employed during model operation, and the requirements in tsunami behavior which had to be met before the verification of the model was deemed acceptable. This paper will also cover results of the study regarding the causes of tsunami bore formation in Hilo and the various possible schemes of protection. The tests described and the resultant information presented herein, unless otherwise noted, were obtained from research conducted under the Hilo Harbor Model Study of the United States Army Corps of Engineers by the Honolulu Engineer District. The permission granted by the Chief of Engineers to publish this information is appreciated.
RESPONSE CHARACTERISTICS OP UNDERWATER WAVE GAUGE
Authors: Masashi Hom-ma , Howrikawa Kiyoshi , Komori Shuzo
Published: February 2019

The paper concerns the characteristics of the correction factor which is introduced into the relationship between the water surface elevation of progressive waves and its corresponding fluctuation of underwater wave pressure. As a result of extensive investigations conducted both in laboratory and field, it is verified that the correction factor is well expressed by a certain function of relative water depth. By using an empirical formula proposed in this paper the power spectrum of surface elevation and its significant wave height off the Ohita Coast are estimated from the record of underwater pressure fluctuation. The estimated values, generally speaking, have a satisfactory agreement with the actual ones determined from the records of surface water elevation.
COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCHES ON THE WESTERN COAST OF TAIWAN
Authors: Tang Frederick L.W.
Published: February 2019

Taiwan is an island located at the edge of the continental shelf of the East China Sea. Her eastern coast fronts precipitously on the Pacific Ocean, whereas the major part of the western coast is formed by very flat sandy beaches. Various engineering works such as the planning of newly building or extension of harbors, tidal land development, cooling water intake of steam power plants as well as shore protection works have been performed on this coast. However, owing to the geomorphological situation of this coast, monsoons of NNE or NE direction originated from high pressure atomosphere overlaying East Asia continent prevail from September to March, and in the summer months, the coast is assailed by typhoons. Waves caused by these meteorological phenomena are mainly being generated in shallow water region, besides, their fetch areas are limitted by the China mainland and Taiwan island. The forecast technics must be reconsidered in stead of utilizing traditional methods. Most coastal engineering structures are subjected to the waves after breaking since the beach slope is exceptionally flat. Many rivers of rapid stream bring tremendous amount of sediment from the high mountains down to the sea. In consequence, sand drift along this coast is so severe that small harbors will be silted up only a few months during monsoon season or after one strong typhoon assailing.
HYDRAULIC SURVEY AND MODEL INVESTIGATION OF THE INNER RANA FJORD
Authors: Carstens Torkild
Published: February 2019

The characteristic feature of the water masses in a fjord is their stratification. This stratification and its annual cycle are explained in terms of the physiography of the fjord regions. The glacial origin of these regions is outlined in order to expose the sediment sources and the present sediment regime. A case study of a fjord in Northern Norway is reported. The results of a field survey comprising measurements of tidal and river flows are given. The measurements revealed that the tidal flow had a steady component giving a horizontal circulation in the fjord, in addition to the vertical circulation associated with the diffusion of salt water upwards into the surface layer. The reduced scale model of the lower river and the Inner Fjord was built to avoid adverse affects of a constriction of the river mouth. The model also showed that a small jetty would turn the turbid surface jet away from the incoming tidal current towards the outbound current caused by the horizontal circulation, thereby relieving the harbour area of some of its present sediment supply.
SOME ASPECTS OF LAND RECLAMATION IN THE NETHERLANDS
Authors: Blumenthal K.P.
Published: February 2019

A description is given of the land-reclamation works along the northern coast of the Netherlands. The works are placed in their historical background, and possibilities for their future are discussed. This opens an opportunity to regard them against a general frame of land-reclamation works and future plans in the Netherlands.
EFFECT OF LOCAL CONDITIONS ON EFFLUENT DISPOSAL IN COASTAL WATERS
Authors: Allen J.H. , Barr D.I.H. , Frazer W. , Smith A.A
Published: February 2019

Since 1957 the Civil Engineering Department of the University of Strathclyde has been engaged on basic and ad hoc studies in the field of Marine Technology. These studies have included problems of heat dissipation from the cooling water of very large power stations of capacities up to 2H00 M.W. discharging 3200 cusecs at 7.5°C above ambient temperature sited on the sea coast or on estuaries, and problems of disposal of industrial wastes including highly toxic chemical wastes and pulp mill effluent. A number of these problems have been amenable to treatment by hydraulic models and a great deal of the basic research of the Department has been concerned with investigations into model scaling laws, complementary field work being carried out from the Department's research vessel. The paper describes some of the work in hand and the general approach of the group to the problems.
A STUDY ON PHENOMENA OF FLOW AND THERMAL DIFFUSION CAUSED BY OUTFALL OF COOLING WATEP.
Authors: Wada Akira
Published: February 2019

This report concerns with the investigation of recirculation of cooling water discharged from outlet of thermal (or atomic) power stations sited on a hay under the tidal and wind effects. In this study, the author describes the effect of some dominant factors on the recirculation and shows a method to estimate the temperature distribution and velocity field in the bay by numerical experiment. Especially, numerical experiments m the vertical section are examined by taking account of the interaction between the flow and thermal diffusion.