bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Oude wijn in nieuwe zakken?
Authors: Snaphaan Thom , Pauwels Lieven , Hardyns Wim
Published: April 2022

Old wine in new bottles? A study on the perceived effectiveness of neighborhood watch projects in a changing context

The rise of the internet and social media has important consequences for the way we interact, communicate and access information. This has repercussions for the police organization and also for the cooperation between police and citizens. One of these forms of cooperation between police and citizens are neighborhood watch (NW) projects (also known as ‘BINs’ in Belgium and ‘burgerwachten’ in the Netherlands). This study uses semi-structured interviews (n=380) in Belgium to examine how NW members and non-NW members perceive the effectiveness of both formal and informal NW projects and how the two relate to each other. The perceived effectiveness is assessed based on several criteria, including impact on crime, fear of crime, policing, and the relationship between police and citizens.
Burgerparticipatie bij vermissingen: een toepassing van de Theory of Planned Behavior binnen de districtsrecherche
Authors: Lam Jerôme , Schoonderwoerd Eline , Kop Nicolien
Published: April 2022

Citizen participation in missing persons cases: an application of the Theory of Planned Behavior in the District Criminal Investigations Teams

This article examines the use of citizen participation in urgent missing person cases. The Theory of Planned Behavior was used to examine which specific considerations investigators have in this regard and which have the greatest influence on the choice of whether or not to involve citizens. The findings suggest that this choice is primarily attitude-driven. Detectives are predominantly positive about participation, but see harm to the investigation as the main risk. A practical implication is to focus collaboration primarily on professionally organized groups of citizens to reduce (perceived) risks.
Politie en de COVID-19-pandemie in België: impact op het politiewerk, de interne relaties en politie-burgerinteracties
Authors: Feys Yinthe
Published: April 2022

Police and the COVID-19 pandemic in Belgium: impact on policing, the internal relations and police-citizen interactions

In this article, the author reflects on the impact of COVID-19 on policing, the relations among police officers and the interactions between police and citizens based on systematic social observations in small to semi-sized local police forces during the pandemic. The article discusses the nature of police work during the crisis and new types of interventions that police officers are confronted with (e.g. curfew controls). Additionally, the impact of the pandemic on the internal and external relations is discussed. Internally, the COVID-19 measures may have an impact on police officers’ possibilities for personal, social interactions among colleagues, which may potentially challenge the solidarity within the police force. Externally, tensions may arise in relations with citizens, partly because of unclear regulations or variable interpretations of those regulations. Those unclear regulations, but also uncertainties concerning one’s own competences and questions regarding the police’s role in enforcing the pandemic regulations, put pressure on the police’s (self-)legitimacy.
Kabinetsformaties op termijn? Een daadwerkelijk demissionaire status als alternatief voor een onwenselijk idee
Authors: van Oort S.P.
Published: April 2022

Kabinetsformaties op termijn? Een daadwerkelijk demissionaire status als alternatief voor een onwenselijk idee

De stelling in deze aflevering van TvCR luidt: ‘Kabinetsformaties moeten voortaan aan een maximumtermijn worden onderworpen.’ Simon van Oort pleit tegen de stelling. Om kabinetsformaties vlotter te laten verlopen, zou de Tweede Kamer actiever gestalte moeten geven aan de figuur van controversieel-verklaring.
Failed or incomplete constitutional transitions in Sub-Saharan Africa
Authors: O’Kubasu D.
Published: April 2022

Failed or incomplete constitutional transitions in Sub-Saharan Africa

The subject of this article is constitutional transformations in Sub-Saharan Africa upon and after the region’s encounter with the third wave of democratization in Africa (TWD) that took place between 1989 and 1994. Since failure in democratic rule in the region was associated with the ease with which political elites amended formal constitutions to subvert democracy, anti-authoritarian factions perceived the solution to the problems bedevilling democratic governance in Africa to lie in formal constitutional rewriting. Hence, virtually all countries ventured into constitutional change – amendment or substitution – in the early 1990s. Inasmuch as different countries changed different formal aspects of their constitutions, they largely recognized multiparty democracy and obliterated the hitherto formulations that either allowed or endorsed single-party political regimes. Yet, on the ground different transitional outcomes were achieved, with a majority of countries either failing to transform at all from de facto authoritarianism or simply making partial transitions into semi-authoritarian or rather hybrid regimes. Using Cameroon, Kenya and Benin, this article contends that disestablishment of authoritarian rule depends on certain enabling factors, which seem to go beyond textual formulation and which may account for both the present conditions of these countries and the different transitional outcomes that were realized after these countries changed their formal constitutions in the early 1990s.
Pelatihan Budidaya Maggot sebagai Alternatif Pakan Ikan di Desa Carawali
Authors: Bibin Muhammad , Ardian Ani , Mecca Adiba Nuwaira
Published: April 2022

Commercial feed produced by the factory has a guaranteed quality and quantity. However, the problem is the price of commercial feed produced by factories that are getting more and more expensive and troubling to fish breeders, thus making fish breeders have to look for other alternatives to reduce the cost of feed. Cultivation of maggots or larvae of black soldier fly flies (Hermetia illicens) the right solution to overcome the problem in lieu of high-protein fish feed. Maggot cultivation training activities as an alternative to fish feed are carried out in Carawali Village. The implementation method is done by means of lectures, discussions and practices. The result of this community service activity is the amount of enthusiasm of participants to the training activities by evidenced that the active participants follow the activity from start to finish. In addition, many participants are active in discussion and question and answer sessions. So it can be concluded that the maggot cultivation training in Carawali Village went successfully and smoothly. The continuation of this PKM activity is to train the understanding and attitude of the trainees on the importance of organic waste management for maggot cultivation as an alternative to fish feed.
Kedisiplinan dalam Kasih Sebagai Dasar Melaksanakan Pendidikan Karakter
Authors: Yesnita Yesnita
Published: April 2022

Character education is not detached from the discipline of love and its evaporation to confront the moral crisis among the younger generations. Lack of discipline resulted in lack of responsibility. Discipline is not detached from the coaching that has been sought and carried out. The business of coaching in guiding the personality of one's behavior, acting in accordance with Christian values to become more mature, independent and integrity. Abstrak : Pendidikan karakter tidak terlepas dari kedisiplinan dalam kasih dan penguatannya untuk menghadapi krisisnya moral dikalangan generasi muda. Kurangnya kedisiplinan mengakibatkan kurangnya tanggungjawab. Kedisiplinan tidak terlepas dari pembinaan yang telah di upayakan dan dilaksanakan. Usaha pembinaan dalam membimbing kepribadian seseorang dalam berperilaku, bertindak sesuai dengan nilai-nilai Kristiani untuk menjadi lebih dewasa, mandiri dan berintegritas.
STUDI BIBLIKA 1 YOHANES 4:19 TENTANG MENGASIHI DALAM PENINGKATAN KEPEDULIAN SESAMA
Authors: Susanti Marselina Reni
Published: April 2022

Kasih merupakan  perasaan yang dimiliki oleh setiap manusia, perasaan ini akan timbul apabila manusia tersebut mempunyai rasa memiliki dan menyayangi. Kasih juga bisa dikatakan hubungan keterkaitan antara manusia tersebut dengan sesuatu, bukan hanya antara manusia dengan manusia, tetapi bisa juga antara Tuhan dengan manusia. Makna kasih yang sesungguhnya itu dimana manusia memberi yang terbaik buat orang lain, baik itu membahagiakan dan tidak merebut kebahagiaan orang lain, tetapi kasih yang mau dan rela berkorban seperti kasih Allah yang sempurna yang mengasihi semua orang, kasih Allah yang menjadi teladan bagi setiap orang sehingga dalam surat Yohanes yang pertama mengatakan kita mengasihi karena Allah lebih dahulu mengasihi (1 Yohanes 4:19).Ketika seseorang tidak mengasihi maka akan memiliki dampak tersebut ia akan mengalami kepahitan, kebencian, dendam, mudah marah dan tidak ada lagi kedamaian dalam kehidupannya. Ketika seseorang memiliki kasih Allah dalam hidupnya maka ia akan memiliki kasih kepada semua, Kasih yang disertai tindakan yang nyata. Metode yang dipakai ialah metode kualitatif dan kuantitatif karena mengunakan berbagai sumber dan juga pendekatan penelitian  teologi biblika dengan cara metodelogi eksegesa, dan Hermeneutika. Metode eksegesa menurut Douglas Stuart dalam bukunya “Eksegesa perjanjian lama” merupakan suatu penelaahan yang cermat dan analitis.Oleh sebab itu kasih perlu dibuktikan melalui kehidupan sehari-hari terutama mengenai kepedulian terhadap sesama. Seseorang peduli bukan saja dengan perkataan. Tetapi bukti dari peduli ialah melalui suatu tindakan yang nyata. Seperti kasih Allah yang telah rela mengorbankan anak-Nya yang tunggal untuk menebus semua dosa umat manusia.
MULTIPLIKASI PERAN GEMBALA PADA JEMAAT LOKAL: GURU SEKOLAH MINGGU SEBAGAI GEMBALA ANAK
Authors: Sulistyawati Theresia Endang
Published: April 2022

Memajukan kualitas pelayanan dan penggembalaan dalam suatu gereja tidak dapat dilakukan hanya oleh gembala sendirian, sepandai apapun seorang gembala tersebut. Diperlukan kerelaan gembala untuk membagikan perannya, secara khusus kepada guru-guru sekolah Minggu dan menjadikan mereka sebagai gembala anak. Memultiplikasi peran gembala sesungguhnya sangat membantu dan meringankan pekerjaaan gembala dalam melakukan pelayanannya, sebagimana telah dicontohkan secara nyata oleh Yesus sendiri. Metode dalam penulisan ini adalah kualitatif dengan sumber pustaka sebagai bahan kajian dalam mengetahui topik pembahsan. Tujuan penulisaan adalah untuk menyampaikan pesan bahwa dalam tugas pelayanan diperlukan kerjasama yang baik untk memajukan gereja, memultiplikasi peran gembala adalah cara terbaik yang dapat dilakukan.
EFEKTIVITAS KEDISIPLINAN GURU DALAM MELAYANI.
Authors: Gideon Dianto
Published: April 2022

Serang Guru yang tidak disiplin akan tugas dan tanggung jawab yang diberikan kepadanya, serta menunda-nunda akan melaksanakan tanggung jawab itu sehingga menjadi masalah akan melalaikan tanggung jawabnya. Sebagai seorang Guru yang dapat menjadi teladan bagi para muridnya adalah cara yang diajarkan secara nyata kepada para murid-Nya agar menjadi contoh yang baik. sehingga guru menjadi sorotan akan keteladan oleh sekolah, murid, dan lingkungannya sendiri. Tujuan dari kedisiplinan seorang guru dala melayani ialah meningkatkan kualitas serta hidup lebih mandiri dalam melakukan segala tanggung jawab serta mempunyai integritas yang baik. dengan adanya dorongan kedisiplinan tang timbul dari dalam diri sendiri akan membawa perubahan yang lebih baik lagi, agar dapat berkontribusi dengan maksimal dalam sekolah serta kehidupannya. Metode yang digunakan dalam penelitian ini ialah metode kuantitatif dan kualitatif. Dalam bentuk observasi lapang dan wawancara secara langsung sehingga dapat memperoleh data yang akurat. Rencana penelitian adalah gambaran yang menditail tentang ketiga langkah proses dalam mempersiapkan, proses pelaksanaan penelitian, dan proses pelaporan penelitian yang akan dilakukan oleh peneliti. Dalam hal ini peneliti mengungkapkan hasil yang diperoleh. Dari penelitian yang telah dilakukan bahwa Guru dapat disiplin jika mempunyai dorongan dari dalam dirinya yang dapat mengubah prilaku hidup dan dapat bertanggung jawab akan tugas yang diberikannya kepadanya dengan sungguh-sungguh dalam keterlibatannya mengikuti setiap tugas sekolah dan mempunyai wewenang terhadap anak didiknya. Dengan melakukan kedisiplinan membuat seorang Guru lebih kritis, mandiri, dan menghargai waktu. Pembelajaran secara nyata yang dilakukan seorang guru ialah dengan melakukan kedisiplinan hidup, sehingga dapat menjadi teladan dan contoh yang nyata terhadap sekolah, murid, dan lingkungannya. Kediplinan ialah perubahan hidup kearah yang lebih baik serta hidup yang berkualitas serta berintegritas sangat dibutuhkan dalam kehidupan sehari-hari.[1] M.pd. Zaenal Arifin, Metodologi Penelitian Pendidikan (Surabaya: Lentera Cendikia, 2008).
KUASA MENGUCAP SYUKUR DALAM SEGALA HAL MENURUT 1 TESALONIKA 5:16-18 DIAPLIKASIKAN DALAM KEHIDUPAN JEMAAT DI MASA PANDEMI
Authors: Nenosono Yance Ivoni , M.TH,. M.Pd.K. Dr. Simon Subagio
Published: April 2022

Mengucap syukur dalam segala hal merupakan kehendak Allah. Tetapi  dalam kondisi atau keadaan yang sedang mengalami pandemi tidaklah mudah, namun Allah yang menginginkan umatNya atau orang yang percaya kepadanya untuk selalu mengucap syukur di dalam keadaan apapun. Penelitian ini ingin mencari kebenaran sesungguhnya maksud dari mengucap syukur dalam segala keadaan di masa pandemi. Maksud dan makna sebenarnya dari 1 Tesalonika 5:16-18. Supaya dapat dijadikan pegangan dalam menghadapi krisis dan memberikan pengaruh bagi iman jemaat yang berada di daerah Pacet. Sebagaimana krisis pernah dialami oleh jemaat di masa jemaat mula-mula atau para rasul. Penelitian dalam penulisan skripsi ini mengunakan metodelogi penelitian kualitatif dan kuantitaf. Kualitatif untuk melakukan pendekatan dengan orang maupun situasi di sekitar peneliti dan berkaitan tentang realita atau kondisi kehidupan jemaat dimasa pandemik atau mengetahui lebih dalam makna sesungguhnya mengucap syukur dan juga kehidupan jemaat di masa pandemi, Sedangkan kuantitatif untuk mengatahui atau melihat seberapa banyak jemaat yang mengucap syukur dalam segala hal. Alat yang digunakan dalam penelitian ini yaitu penyebaran angket, wawancara, dan observasil.
KETELADANAN GIDEON BERDASARKAN HAKIM-HAKIM 6:12 DIAPLIKASIKAN TERHADAP MAHASISWA DALAM BERKOMUNIKASI DI DEPAN UMUM
Authors: Ataria Andina Dungu , M. Th Michael Christianto,
Published: April 2022

How Gideon's example as a valiant hero can be seen in the book of Judges, and also how the humble Gideon was changed and used by God to be a leader for the Israelites. This example is a behavior that can be imitated for others, through attitudes, behavior, morals and also through actions. Gid eon was a humble man, when he met God he experienced a change from being afraid to being brave in doing God's will to restore the Israelites from the oppression of the Midianites.Communication in public is to convey information in front of many people. Barriers in communicating in public when experiencing lack of confidence are nervous, afraid, not mastering the material, so that when conveying information in public they become afraid and feel inferior. The purpose of this study is to find out Gideon's example as a valiant hero. The method used is a qualitative and quantitative methodology. Qualitative (Combined) because by using various sources and conducting research directly. God uses people not from an educational background, but God sees the potential of each person. When communicating in public to be able to be a blessing to others and bring about a change
Contraceptive practices and contraceptive counselling in high-performance Portuguese athletes
Authors: Neves Gomes Inês Margarida , Ruivo Coelho Alexandra , Bento Lino Metello José Luís
Published: April 2022

We present an observational, prospective, descriptive study of answers collected through an online self-assessment questionnaire in High Performance Portuguese Athletes aged 18 years old or over. The main objective was to evaluate contraceptive practices, menstrual patterns and contraceptive counselling in these athletes. Overall, 115 women aged between 18 and 39 years were studied, from 18 different sports. In our sample, most athletes used some type of contraception. Most believed that they had a better performance after menstruation and that starting contraception did not interfere with their performance. However, a high number of athletes believes that contraceptives are contraindicated for sports.
Natural Antioxidants as Multifunctional Additives for Polymeric Materials
Authors: Olejnik Olga , Masek Anna
Published: April 2022

The additional substances commonly used for polymeric materials mostly have a negative impact either on the natural environment or human health. Therefore, there is a need for replacing these compounds by more pro-ecological ones. In this paper, some natural antioxidants of plant origin, including xanthone, rutin hydrate, quercetin and a mixture of various polyphenols derived from green tea, were proposed as multifunctional as well as eco-friendly additional compounds for polymers. These substances were implemented by means of the impregnation process into ethylene-propylene copolymer (EPM) matrix. Some significant results of the research work are presented, including the mechanical properties and oxidation induction time (OIT) of the material tested. Moreover, ethylene-propylene copolymer (EPM) with antioxidants was investigated in terms of thermooxidative and UV ageing resistance. The impact of ageing processes on the material tested was analysed mainly by means of Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) absorbance spectra and colour change assessment.
Development and Investigation of a Textile Heating Element Ensuring Thermal Physiological Comfort
Authors: Padleckienė Ingrida , Stygienė Laimutė , Krauledas Sigitas
Published: April 2022

The aim of this research was to develop a flexible heating element and investigate its heating capability in simulated wearing conditions. Polyester silver (Ag)-plated yarns incorporated in the reverse side of the knitted structure were used to provide electrical conductivity. A special knitted structure was selected to keep conductive yarn only in the reverse side of the material. All the heating element was made using only textile materials and yarns. A temperature sensor thermistor was used as an electronic element to follow the body temperature, and the remaining elements ensuring a correct electric circuit and heating were made of textile. Another type of heating element was produced using enamelled copper wire, which was inserted into the knitted fabric structure. Investigation of both types of heating elements was made by determining the dependences of the heating elements’ temperatures on the current and voltage applied. It was concluded that the heating element with silver plated yarns used gave out warmth more evenly over all the resistive area. The microcontroller, which has a heating dynamics data storage function, was programmed to control the operations of the two heating elements. A model of an intelligent apparel product with two heating elements ensuring a comfortable microclimate for the user was created. Field tests were performed for the model created by wearing the product and setting the temperatures of both heating elements, for which the continuous operating time was determined.
Influence of Wave-Absorbing Functional Particles on the Electromagnetic Properties and Mechanical Properties of Coated Composites for Nickel Powders
Authors: Liu Yuanjun , Wang Yi , Wu Xiang , Zhang Lulu , Niu Jiarong
Published: April 2022

In this subject, a single-layer coated composite for nickel powders was prepared using PU2540 polyurethane as the matrix, nickel powder as the wave-absorbing functional particle, and coating technology on plain cotton fabric. The influence of wave-absorbing functional particles on the dielectric, shielding effectiveness and mechanical properties of the single-layer coated composite for nickel powders was mainly analysed and compared. Results showed that the real and imaginary parts and loss tangent of the dielectric constant were all the largest when the iron powder was mixed with the nickel powder, and its polarizing ability, loss ability and attenuation ability with respect to electromagnetic waves were all the maximum. When the graphene was mixed with the nickel powder, the shielding attenuation ability with respect to electromagnetic waves was the best.
Woman’s Costume in the Territories of Poland during the Roman Period. Reconstruction Based on Finds from Nowy Łowicz in Pomerania
Authors: Cybulska Maria
Published: April 2022

During archaeological excavations in Nowy Łowicz, Pomerania (Poland), in 1991, burial mound 55 with a woman’s grave was examined, in which numerous fragments of textiles, costume accessories and jewellery had been preserved. The work presents the results of structural and technological analysis of fragments preserved. Based on these, as well as on preserved iconography and analogous archaeological finds, an attempt was made to reconstruct the woman’s clothing from the period to which the grave is dated, i.e. phase B2/C1 of the Roman period. The reconstruction was made by means of computer graphics and includes three elements of clothing: a shirt, dress and short coat, made by identified techniques and partly taking into account the original colours. The work done is particularly important due to the fact that this is the first attempt to reconstruct a woman’s complete clothing worn on the territory of what is now Poland in the above-mentioned period.
Effect of Stitch Density and Stitch Type on the Moisture Management Properties of Seams for High Active Sportswear Application
Authors: Maanvizhi M. , Prakash C. , Rameshbabu V.
Published: April 2022

The impact of stitch density and seam class on the moisture management properties of seams was investigated in this study. A lapped seam (Class 2) using a Flat Lock Stitch class ASTM 607 and a super imposed seam (Class 1) using an Overlock Stitch Class ASTM 514 were constructed with four different stitch densities – SPI 10, SPI 14, SPI 18 and SPI 22, and the moisture management properties of seamed fabric in terms of the spreading speed, area of spreading, absorption time, wetting time, one-way transport index and overall moisture management capability (OMMC) on the seam line were investigated. It was observed from the results that the seams made with low stitch density show better moisture management capability, and the lapped seam exhibits better moisture management capability when compared to the superimposed seam.
High Efficiency Covering Technology for Covered Yarn Production: Controlling the Spandex Yarn Draw Ratio
Authors: Feng Pei , Liu Dashuang , Yang Chongchang
Published: April 2022

This paper proposes a new covered yarn system in which the tension of spandex elastic yarn drawing is controlled. By analysing the relationship between the draw ratio and yarn tension, it was verified that the new tension controlled drawing system is feasible and results in yarns of superior quality and process stability.
Influence of Crimp and Inter-Yarn Friction on the Mechanical Properties of Woven Fabric under Uniaxial/Biaxial Tensile Loading
Authors: Huang Canyi , Cui Lina , Xia Hong , Yiping Qiu , Ni Qing-Qing
Published: April 2022

In the present research, a physical-geometric-feature of continuous yarn in a plain woven fabric was created and its FE model was analysed by considering the two key issues of woven fabric, the crimp and inter-yarn friction. The basic parameters of Young’s modulus of single yarn and the inter-yarn friction coefficient were investigated for practical fabrics in tensile and pull-out tests. FE analysis indicated that the stress-strain curves of the FE model were effective in evaluating the equivalent modulus of a woven fabric by comparing with a tensile experiment on Twaron CT® Plain Woven Fabric. In addition, a simplified three dimensional model of the unit cell of plain woven fabric (UCPW) was employed to quantitively investigate two important fabric characteristics – the crimp rate of the yarn and inter-yarn friction-to determine their influence on the mechanical properties of the fabrics. Furthermore, we used FE analysis to evaluate how the crimp rate and inter-yarn friction affected the mechanical properties by determining the equivalent modulus of single yarn and UCPW in both uniaxial and biaxial tensile loading. The stresses at representative nodal points and the mechanical interaction between yarns were also investigated from a microscopic perspective, and their deformation mechanisms were also analysed and discussed.
Study on the Electromagnetic and Mechanical Properties of Coated Composites
Authors: Liu Yuanjun , Wang Huanhuan , Zhang Yiqu , Wang Xichen , Yin Guang , Han Xiaohui , Niu Jiarong
Published: April 2022

In this paper, a single-layer coated composite was prepared using PU2540 polyurethane as the matrix, nickel powder as the wave-absorbing functional particle, and coating technology on plain cotton fabric. The influence of the content of nickel powder on the dielectric properties (the real and imaginary parts and the loss tangent value), the shielding effectiveness and the mechanical properties was studied adopting the method of controlling variables. The result showed that when the content of nickel powder was 0~20% and that of nickel powder relative to that of polyurethane was 20%, the real and imaginary parts of the dielectric constant of the coating were the largest, and its polarising and loss ability with respect to electromagnetic waves were the strongest; when the content of nickel powder relative to that of polyurethane was 15%, the loss tangent value of the coating was the largest, and its absorption and attenuation ability with respect to electromagnetic waves was the strongest. When the values of the coating thickness were at 0.5~2 mm, the real and imaginary parts of the dielectric constant of the coating with a thickness of 1 mm were the largest, and the polarising and loss ability with respect to electromagnetic waves were the strongest. When the loss tangent value and the shielding-attenuation value of the coating with a thickness of 2 mm were the largest, the absorbing-attenuation and shielding-attenuation ability with respect to electromagnetic waves were the strongest.
New Geometrical Model of Woven Fabric Taking into Account the Change of Its Form, Size and Lateral Bending
Authors: Grechukhin A.P. , Rudovskiy N.
Published: April 2022

This paper suggests a technique for the construction of fabric three-dimensional models based on the piecewise continuous representation of the thread surface. The approach allows to exclude such simulation defects as “interpenetration” of threads in the fabric, and takes into account the geometric features of the thread structure, the possibility of their bending in several planes, and changes in the form and sectional area. The geometric models obtained can be used to analyse the forces and deformations occurring in the fabric with the help of the finite-element simulation programs in various specialised software complexes, such as ANSYS, LS-DYNA, ABAQUS, NASTRAN etc. The structure parameters which are difficult to calculate using standard techniques, e.g. the pore volume and contact area between threads can be calculated with the help of describing the fabric three-dimensional structure.
Design of an Adaptive Scheduling Algorithm for a Warp Knitting Machine Industrial Wireless Network Based on Fuzzy Control
Authors: Wen Xia , Lai Sencai , Ren Wen
Published: April 2022

Aiming at resolving the technical bottlenecks existing in current warp knitting machine control systems, such as the distributed industrial wireless networked control system, in this study the architecture of a warp knitting machine industrial wireless networked control system based on the WIA-PA international standard is proposed which provides a design idea for building a „smart factory”. Secondly, according to the WIA-PA specification, an allocation plan of time slots in a super-frame for intra-cluster and inter-cluster communication is given. Third, in order to enhance the real-time access of equipment, expand the network capacity, and reduce the energy consumption of the system, based on the carrier sense multiple access (CSMA) mechanism supported by IEEE STD 802.1 5.4:2006, an adjustment algorithm of the super-frame structure based on fuzzy control was designed. The effectiveness of the design method was verified by simulation.
Artistic Characteristics and Fashion Practice of Traditional K’o-ssu in China
Authors: Wang Zhicheng , Cui Rrongrong , Cong Tianzhu , Liang Hui’e
Published: April 2022

K’o-ssu is one of the representative textile techniques of ancient China. It was used in the royal court, known to few people in folk life. However, it was not until the 1950s that the K’o-ssu technique was rediscovered. This paper focus on summarising K’o-ssu artistic characteristics through analysing K’o-ssu’s materials, patterns and colours by interviewing experts and physical observation. Taking the NE·TIGER brand as an example, this article will discuss the fashion practice of traditional K’o-ssu art in modern life in order to provide modern designers a reference for promoting this traditional Chinese craft and culture by way of sustainable development.
Going Green and Socially Responsible – Textile Industry in Transition to Sustainability and a Circular Economy
Authors: Warwas Izabela , Podgórniak-Krzykacz Aldona , Przywojska Justyna , Kozar Łukasz
Published: April 2022

The textile industry is faced with many problems today. In addition to having to meet customers’ changing preferences and expectations, who wish to stay abreast of fashion trends and stand out from the crowd, it also needs to make efforts to change its image of one the biggest polluters in the world it has earned due to production processes consuming large amounts of resources that end up as piles of household waste. The circular economy (CE) model to reduce the environmental footprint seems to be the right solution for textile companies implementing sustainable development strategies. This paper discusses the principles of the CE model and makes an attempt at explaining how textile companies transition to it. It is based on the analysis of 34 textile companies sampled from among the members of the European Circular Economy Stakeholder Platform, which was conducted using a special analytical checklist compiled from the ReSOLVE and BECE frameworks. Because of the proportions and degree of integration between strategic and operational practices they used to achieve circularity, they were divided into integrated, hybrid, and selective organisations.
Optimisation of Process Parameters in Flocked Fabric Production to Eliminate the Non-Recovery Problem of Bent Fibres in Flock
Authors: Çamliyurt İlkay , Deni̇z Ferit , Ay lknur Çinar , Atav Rıza
Published: April 2022

This study was focused on the elimination of defects due to the non-recovery of bent fibres in flock. For this reason, it was aimed to shorten the recovery time of bent fibres in flock as much as possible by optimising selected process parameters in flocked fabric production. For this aim; the diameter of flock fibre, the flock type, paste type, foam density, presetting, dyeing machine type, finishing treatment type, amount of treatment (finishing chemical), use of the brake mechanism during packing the fabric, and tension during winding were changed in two levels and their effects were investigated statistically. As a result of pareto analysis and statistical evaluations, among the many parameters that may affect this problem, the type of finishing process and presetting were found to have a critical effect. According to the experimental results, it was concluded that the recovery time of bent fibres in flocked fabrics could be significantly shortened if the flocked fabrics are not preset and silicone softener is applied during finishing treatments.
Natural Silk – an Unusual Fibre: Origin, Processing and World Production
Authors: Czaplicki Zdzisław , Gliścińska Eulalia , Machnowski Waldemar
Published: April 2022

The article presents the history of the development of sericulture in the world, including Poland. The advantages of natural silk which cause interest in its production and processing in many countries of the world are indicated. A brief description of mulberry silkworm breeding and the technology of silk processing into textile products are presented. The article provides information on the production of natural silk in several countries in 2015-2019. The share of silk in the world global production of fibres is about 0.2%. Over the last few years, the largest amounts of natural silk have been produced by the following countries: China, India and Uzbekistan – the total share of these countries in the world silk production is about 98%.
Analysis of Underwear Used with Protective Clothing Worn by Metallurgy Workers and Welders – Research Survey
Authors: Bartkowiak Grażyna , Miśkiewicz Pamela
Published: April 2022

Employees of the metallurgy industry and welders are constantly exposed to a hot factors and hot microclimate in working environment. Difficult working conditions associated with expose employees to hot factors occurring in the form of flame, contact heat, convective heat, and splashes of molten metal may consequently lead to extensive body burns and even death. Scientific publications have proven that the temperature of the working environment is an important factor affecting human safety and performance. Improved comfort and safety can be achieved by using properly selected clothing and underwear/undergarment, meeting the requirements for a specific occupational group. In order to obtain information regarding underwear/undergarments usually used under protective clothing as well as to get acquainted with expectations regarding the subject matter, questionnaire surveys were conducted among two professional groups, namely employees of the metallurgy and welders, who are constantly exposed to a hot factors and hot microclimate.
Analysis of Modellings, Techniques and Functions of the Chinese Skullcap
Authors: Niu Li , Shen Linlin
Published: April 2022

The Chinese skullcap is a kind of headgear for men specific to China, which prevailed in the dynasties of Ming, Qing and the Republic of China. Its modellings fall into two types: flat-topped and peaked, and its lining is divided into hard and soft to fit the different needs of each season. Through analysis of the physical objects that have remained to this day, it reveals that four types of Chinese skullcap can fit well with t he human head, covering half of the forehead. By means of analysing and carding of the crafting techniques of the peaked Chinese skullcap with a hard inner lining, it could be found that it is precise in material selection and fine in making, which is the embodiment of the increasingly approaching perfection of traditional headgear techniques. The modelling and production techniques of the Chinese skullcap also reflect its unique practical, aesthetic and social functions, displaying the philosophy of “the integration of beauty and practicality” in Chinese headgear art.
Scouring of Sheep Wool Using an Acoustic Ultrasound Wave
Authors: Czaplicki Zdzisław , Matyjas-Zgondek Edyta , Strzelecki Stanisław
Published: April 2022

The paper describes a method of scouring sheep wool using ultrasound.The inspiration to start work on the use of ultrasound in the process of scouring sheep wool was positive results that had already been achieved for alpaca wool. Due to the fact that sheep wool has many more impurites than alpaca wool, the scouring process is divided into two stages. The first involves the removal of faeces from the wool, which may be up to about 35% of the impurities of sheep wool, while the second stage involves the scouring cycle, wherein the remaining impurities are removed. The ultrasonic scouring process uses domestic merino wool heavily clad, particularly, by faeces. In this study, detergent solutions, alkali soap and sodium carbonate were used. The scouring of wool was carried out with a special apparatus equipped with an ultrasonic generator, at a frequency of 40 kHz. To determine the optimal conditions for scouring sheep wool that could affect the amount of impurities removed, the following parameters were examined: the effect of the scouring time, the concentration of detergents, and the scouring bath ratio. The study resulted in achieving optimal scouring parameters that ensured a satisfactory level of the removal of wool impurities.
Distribution of the Polymer Melt Velocity and Temperature in the Spinneret Channel of Bi-component Fibre Melt Spinning: a Mathematical Model
Authors: Feng Pei , Liu Dashuang , Zhang Ronggen , Yang Chongchang
Published: April 2022

For the stability of composite fibre spinning, the difference in and distribution of the polymer melt velocity during the spinning are among the factors of importance. Based on the basic equation for the control of composite spinning dynamics, boundary conditions are identified and reported in this paper. A mathematical model for the symmetric and asymmetric distribution of the melt flow velocity in the microhole of the spinneret of the composite spinning assembly was developed. The accuracy of the mathematical model was also ascertained. It gives a theoretical basis for the designing of a composite spinning assembly.
Perceptions Influencing Apparel Safety Sustainable Consumption Behaviour: Exploring the Contextual Relationship
Authors: Chen Lihong , Qie Kexin , Yu Hong , Ding Xuemei
Published: April 2022

The purpose of this paper is to develop and test a theoretical model that explains that the impact of consumer perceptions of apparel safety on their consumption behavior is moderated by consumers’ attitude and the price in the relationship studied. A survey questionnaire was developed and conducted first in a pretest by 231 participants to initially identify possible measurement problems. Another 321 potential consumers subsequently filled in the questionnaire on our website, out of which 296 questionnaires were used to verify the validity and reliability by statistical analysis and the structural equation model. The paper identifies a set of apparel safety perception dimensions that do not drive safe consumption practices. It is further seen that price is more likely to moderate the relationship with consumer behaviors than perceptions and attitudes. Therefore, the paper significantly fills the gaps between apparel safety perceptions and apparel safety consumption behavior. The findings of the paper have significant implications for apparel companies who wish to explore the apparel market potential in China.
Optical Fibers in the Design and Fabrication of Smart Garments – a Review
Authors: Raji Rafiu King , Qin Luo , Ning Li , Haijin Liu
Published: April 2022

Several publications and even commercial products showcasing the application of optical fibers for textile goods abound in literature. Optical fibers can be employed as sensors by making use of physical principles to sense strain, temperature, and other quantities by tailoring the fiber such that the quantity to be measured alters the intensity, phase, polarisation, and wavelength of light within the fiber. However, a paper directed at the development of textile based applications or smart garments using optical fibers is lacking. This review seeks to serve as apt reference material for the development of optical fiber based textile sensors or smart garments with a focus on the application of plastic optical fibers (POFs). Highlighted are the salient material properties of POFs and their importance in delivering satisfactory sensing results. Special treatment has also been given to their proposed feasibility for embedment within weft knitted structures.
Interfacial Structure of Polytrimethylene Terephthalate/Polyethylene Terephthalate Bicomponent Filament
Authors: Yang Zhuli , Wang Fumei , Guan Fuwang , Luo Jin , Yiping Qiu , Zhang Chuyang
Published: April 2022

The interfacial structure and binding forces of polytrimethylene terephthalate/polyethylene terephthalate filament were investigated through the methods of Carbon-13 nuclear magnetic resonance (13C-NMR), differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and optical microscopy. When two molten polymers met during the spinning process, an interface layer between the PTT and PET components formed and played an important role in binding the two components together. When the blending time was sufficient, an ester-interchange reaction took place with the generation of the copolymer. The PET recrystallisation was observed in the DSC curve under the influence of entangled PTT molecular chains. The morphology of the cross-section and side view proved that the linear boundary line was short and weaker in binding without a chemical bond and molecular diffusion. Side-by-side bi-component fiber and split-type fiber was able to be controllably spun by adjusting the spinning parameters.
La Trinidad y la historia, en san Agustín
Authors: Cipriani Nello , Eguiarte B. Enrique A. ,   Order of Augustinian Recollects
Published: April 2022

The article deals with St. Augustine’s idea of the Trinity as it is presented in De Trinitate and other of his Works, to answer to some controversial points stressed by some theologians, focusing in the Revelation of the Trinity within the History; the History of Salvation as a work of the Trinity and caused by the intratrinitarian love; and about the religious meaning of the trinitarian revelation within the particular life of the faithful, as individuals and as a part of an ecclesial community.
Agustín lee a Mateo (II). Descubrimiento de la gratuidad en la relectura de su ‘prólogo de la gracia’
Authors: Gómez García Enrique ,   Order of Augustinian Recollects
Published: April 2022

The article deals with the explanation of St. Augustine to the “prologue of Grace”, namely, the prologue of St. Mathew’s Gospel, underlining St. Augustine’s commentaries in his sermones ad populum, and also its application to everyday life.
Enfermo durante treinta y ocho años. La predicación de san Agustín sobre la curación en la piscina de Betesda (Jn 5, 1-18)
Authors: van Reisen Hans , van der Post Marc ,   Order of Augustinian Recollects
Published: April 2022

This article deals with Augustine’s sermons on John 5,1-18, the story about the healing by Jesus on a sabbath at Bethesda of a men, who had been sick thirty-eight years. Augustine connects the events narrated in the gospel with everyday life: biblical stories happen not just in the distant past and in a far away land, but express God’s salvation history for people in the here and now. Augstine’s object is to stimulate different groups among his audience to truly live their faith: he exhorts the candidates for baptism to attend the Christian bathhouse (the baptisterium); together with the baptized he helps them throughout a life of difficulty (38 years of illness) to attain a deeper experience of God’s commandments through the double commandment of love (38+2=40). He helps his listeners to consider the special function of their bed as a reference to their neighbor and to reflect on the sense of the seventh-day rest as the destination of each person’s life’ journey. Outsiders he points to the special role and significance of Jesus Christ. Finally, Augustine transforms the tension that is visible in the gospels between Jesus and the Jews into a careful and critical contemplation of all differences between those who share a spiritual and intellectual closeness: he interprets this tension as an encouragement to come to a deeper knowledge of each other and so to banish mutual disaffection. The healed man in the bathhouse becomes a figure of all people, both through his long illness and through the fact that Jesus cured him.
Designing to Attract in an Emerging Market: Applying Behavioural Reasoning Theory to South African Consumer Reactions to an Ultra-High Temperature Milk Product Line Extension
Authors:   Department of Life and Consumer Sciences, University of South Africa, Kempen Elizabeth , Christie Lorna ,   Department of Life and Consumer Sciences, University of South Africa
Published: April 2022

In the ultra-high temperature (UHT) milk category, parent brands introduce line extensions as innovative product designs to address the competitiveness in the market. However, not knowing if consumers will purchase the product results in uncertainty for the product design and marketing team. Using the behavioural reasoning theory, the purpose of this study was to explore South African consumers’ reasons for purchasing a UHT line extension that was designed to include the word ‘enriched’ and other extrinsic line extension attributes comprising product packaging design, country of origin and price. An exploratory-descriptive qualitative study was conducted using six focus groups involving milk consumers from a South African university. Three behavioural approaches (i.e. curiously cautious, unconditional and habitual) emerged, with diff erentiating characteristics of the behaviour towards the UHT line extension. Each extrinsic product attribute was characterised by specifi c behavioural acts that positively or negatively infl uenced the reasons for purchasing the UHT line extension. The behavioural reasoning theory was useful in explaining the linkage between the reasons for or against purchasing a UHT line extension product and the intended behaviour, which contributes to a better understanding of consumers’ approaches to a UHT line extension. Findings can assist food designers and marketers in designing a UHT line extension that resonates with consumers.
Brand Love and Brand Forgiveness: An Empirical Study in Turkey
Authors:   American International University, Al Jahra, Kuwait, Yanar Gürce Merve , Tosun Petek ,   Marketing Faculty of Economics, Administrative and Social Sciences, Kadir Has University, Istanbul, Turkey, Öncü Eroğlu Pektaş Güzide ,   Marketing Faculty of Engineering, Istanbul University, Istanbul, Turkey
Published: April 2022

Brand love is an interesting and important concept that required further research in brand management. This study tested the impacts of consumer attitudes, subjective norms, and brand anthropomorphization on brand love and brand forgiveness in the framework provided by the theory of planned behavior. Regression analyses showed that brand anthropomorphization and subjective norms have a signifi cant impact on brand love. Brand love positively infl uences brand forgiveness and acts as a mediator between subjective norms, brand anthropomorphization, and brand forgiveness constructs. Besides mediation, brand anthropomorphization directly infl uences brand forgiveness. The findings of this study contribute to the existing knowledge on brand love and brand forgiveness concepts by presenting empirical research fi ndings that investigate brand love antecedents. This study has also shown the signifi cant impact of anthropomorphizing a brand on brand forgiveness and brand love.