Influence of surfactant mixtures on intercellular lipid fluidity and skin barrier function
Authors: Kawasaki Yoshiaki , Quan Danyi , Sakamoto Kazutami , Cooke Roger , Maibach Howard I. 
Published: October 2006

Background/aims: Surfactant mixtures are used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulas in order to establish product efficacy while maintaining mildness and skin lipids. The electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) technique of the spin labeling method with a nitroxide spin probe is a valuable method in the study of biological membranes. The objective of this study was to define the influence of surfactant mixtures on intercellular lipid fluidity and correlate EPR spectral data with in vivo safety data.

Methods: EPR experiment: EPR spectra of 5‐doxyl stearic acid (5‐DSA) labeled stratum corneum treated with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium lauroyl glutamate (SLG) and their mixtures were measured and order parameters were calculated. Clinical testing: Fifteen healthy volunteers free of skin disease and with no history of atopic dermatitis were treated with SLS solutions (0.25%, 0.50%, 0.75%, 1.00%), 1.00% SLG solution and 1.00% surfactant mixture solutions: 0.75% SLS+0.25% SLG, 0.50% SLS+0.50% SLG, 0.25% SLS+0.75% SLG. One hundred μl of solution was applied using a polypropylene chamber for 24 h. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured with an evaporimeter before and after the application of surfactant solutions and each site was also visually graded according to Lee (1).

Results: The order parameter (S) calculated from 1.00 %wt SLS treated stratum corneum was 0.56 ± 0.03, indicating disordering of lipid structure. On the contrary, the high S value (0.82 ± 0.02) for 1.00 %wt SLG suggests a reduced effect on the structured lipid, almost equaling the value of water. Treatment with 0.25 %wt, 0.50 %wt and 0.75 %wt SLS solutions revealed intermediate levels between 1.00 %wt SLG and SLS. The order parameters at each SLS concentration (0.25, 0.50, 0.75 and 1.00 %wt SLS) with 1.00 %wt SLG showed higher values than those of SLS only solutions. There were statistically significant differences between with and without 1.00 %wt SLG (P < 0.05). These results suggest that the addition of 1.00 %wt SLG inhibits the fluidization of intercellular lipid induced by SLS. The visual scores and TEWL values of 1.00% SLG solution were lower than those of the other test solutions (except for the vehicle control: deionized water). The 1.00% surfactant mixture solutions showed lower visual scores and TEWL values of the 1.00% SLS solution. An increase of SLG concentration decreased the visual scores and TEWL values. Order parameter S obtained from EPR spectra correlated with the clinical study. The correlation coefficient (r2) of visual score and TEWL values was 0.73 and 0.83, respectively.

Conclusion: SLS disorder (fluidity) intercellular lipids at low concentrations, such as 0.25 %wt, presumably due to the SLS molecules being intercalated into the intercellular lipids. However, EPR spectral data suggest that the addition of 1.00 %wt SLG to an SLS solution (<1.00 %wt) inhibits the fluidization of intercellular lipid induced by SLS. A reasonable correlation between order parameters and human clinical data (visual scores and TEWL values) was observed (r2=0.73 and 0.83, respectively). The use of the EPR spin labeling method for predicting the fluidity of stratum corneum should give further insight into the mechanism of epidermal barrier disruption by surfactants and possibly other chemicals.