bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
The Uses of Microscopy in Textile Dyeing and Finishiilg
Authors: Taylor G. G. , Brown J. C.
Published: July 2010

The object of this paper is to review the application of microscopy to the study of textile fibres. A brief exposition is given of the best methods of mounting anti examining various fibres, and the application of the techniques of polarised light, staining, and microtomy is discussed. Recent advances in the histology of protein fibres due to both visual and electron microscopy are described, and the more useful microscopie tests for protein fibre damage are covered. The structure of the natural cellulosic fibres cotton and linen is discussed, and the microscopical detection of chemical modifications to cellulose is described. An outline is given of some steining experiments which have a bearing on the structure of regenerated cellulosic fibres.
Doctor Streaks–Their Origin and Prevention
Authors: KRÄHEHBÜHL Emil A.
Published: July 2010

Basod upon the theory that excessive friction between doctor blade and roller surface is the primary cause of roltor damage and can provoke this trouble even in print pastes containing no trace of solid matter, the author reports on trials with a printing assembly linked with a friction‐measuring device. The entirely different behaviour of thickenings with high and others with low dry content gives evidence of their varying working properties. It is shown that the use of thickenings with high dry content, addition of lubricants to print pastes containing low dry content thickenings, and especially replacement of copper rollers by chromium‐plated ones, will in most cases eliminate the causes of roller damage. There is, however, an indication that changes of pH may completely alter the friction characteristics of thickenings and that with more and more ingredients present in the print pastes their performance becomes increasingly unpredictable and requires closer investigation.
An Investigation of the Chemical Reactions involved in the Use of Sodium Formaldehyde‐sulphoxylate in Textile Printing
Authors: Hannay R. J. , Furness W.
Published: July 2010

In discharge printing with sodium formaldehyde‐sulphoxylate, reduction of the dye is accompanied by oxidation of the formaldehyde‐sulphoxylate to formaldehyde‐bisulphite. Although some preliminary decomposition has been noted during drying of the cloth immediately after printing, the main object of this investigation has been to determine the extent, and to trace the products, of decomposition of the formaldehyde‐sulphoxylate during the steaming of a printed and dried filament visoose‐rayon crêpe.

Methods of analysis are described. Their use has shown that the extent of decomposition of the formaldehyde‐sulphoxylate on steaming depends very much on other constituents of the printing paste. In particular, the influence of added sodium carbonate and sodium sulphite in pastes made up with Hritish gum and gum tragacanth has been traced, and the effect of leaving printed goods overnight in warm storage before steaming has also been investigated.

Fluidity tests showed that no appreciable tendering of the crepe occurred under any of the conditions imposed in this investigation.
New Developments in the Application of Phthalocyanines in Textile Printing
Authors: Gund F.
Published: July 2010

A completely new method of using phthalocyanines in textile printing was introduced by the discovery of the Phthalogens, from which the phthalocyanine pigment may be produced in the fibre. Special methods of application were developed, which are characterised by the use of 10–20% of special solvent mixtures, the Levasols, in the aqueous printing pastes containing the intermediate product and the metal, the latter in the form of a soluble salt or as a complex compound.

The printing method is adapted to the usual processes and apparatus used in textile printing. Particular attention must be paid to the drying of the prints and pads. Condensation to the dye is best carried out by steaming.

The printing process with Phthalogen Brilliant Blue IF3G, the intermediate product, which with a popper salt or the copper complex compound Phthalogen K gives very bright blues of high fastness to light, weather, and boiling, and with nickel salts greenish blues of equally high fastness properties, is described in detail, and the solubility and the stability of the intermediate product are discussed. The possibility of printing alongside dyes of other groups is considered.

Success has recently been achieved in developing a process for the production of white and coloured resists under Phthalogen Brilliant Blue IF3G, the resisting agent being an organic base (Phthalotrop B).

The production of a green phthalocyanine pigment on the fibre has been made possible by the manufacture of the intermediate product Phthalogen Brilliant Green IFFB. The printing process is similar to that used for the production of the blue dye. The lower solubility of the intermediate product requires the use of another solvent, Levasol F, and the dispersing agent, Emulsifier W. Owing to its extraordinary brightness and outstanding fastness properties, the dye containing copper is of greater importance, the copper being applied as Phthalogen K. The method of printing is discussed, as well as the possibility of application alongside other dye groups in direct printing.
A Survey of the Quality of Crease‐resist Treatment on Fabrics supplied to the Retail Trade
Authors: Best‐Gobdon H. W.
Published: July 2010

The application of resin finishes to textile fabrics raises many interesting problems, and it was felt that a survey of the actual quality of finished fabrics supplied to the retail trade would provide interesting data. A detailed investigation was carried out on 260 fabrics crease‐resisted with urea‐formaldehyde resins. The results are summarised, and observations, of interest to the technician, are made on the possible causes of some of the more outstanding faults.

The most important factor, from a consumer's point of view, is the ability of the fabric to recover from creasing; next comes wash fastness (in retention of colour, overall fabric dimensions, and crease‐resistant properties), followed by fastness to light, and the degree of freedom from chemicals which have been used in the process.

The survey has shown that some fabrics could be regarded as quite satisfactory, and that a great many could have been considerably improved by adequate process control. On the other hand, a number were regarded as completely unsatisfactory.

Those fabrics with a crease‐recovery of the order of 90.0% which were wash fast, dimensionally stable, dyed with dyes of good light fastness, and with a relatively low free formaldehyde figure were considered to be satisfactory. Failure in any one item of the foregoing was regarded as an undesirable feature.
Studies in the Fundamental Processes of Textile Printing V‐The Transfer of Disperse and Water‐soluble Dyes to Cellulose Acetate during Steaming
Authors: Daruwalla E. H. , Turner H. A.
Published: July 2010

The experimental methods used in the preceding studies in this series 1‐4 have been adapted to the investigation of the transfer of selected disperse and soluble acetate rayon dyes to cellulose acetate during steaming. The effects of concentration, chemical structure, and particle size of the dye and of the presence of electrolytes and swelling agents for the fibre substance have been examined for appropriate conditions of application. The results are discussed with special reference to corresponding details of the dyeing behaviour as revealed by quantitative studies of other workers. In many of these details there is an unusually close correspondence between dyeing behaviour and printing transfer.
The Use of Non‐ionic Level‐dyeing Assistants with Chrome‐complex Dyes
Authors: Rattee I. D.
Published: July 2010

The factors involved in the absorption of chrome‐complex dyes by wool and the problems arising in the search for level‐dyeing assistants are discussed, with particular reference to the use of such non‐ionic agents as Diapersol A (ICI), Lissapol N (ICI), Palatine Fast Salt O (IG), etc.

The reactions between Lissapol N and chrome‐complex dyes have been studied. The formation of a complex between Lissapol N and chrome‐complex dyes has been observed and measured quantitatively under controlled conditions. Complex formation appears to take place via the acid groups in the dye molecule.

It has been shown that the complex formation between the chrome‐complex dyes and Lhapol N causes the latter to have a beneficial action in chrome‐complex dyebath, notably in the prevention of skittery dyeing.

A dyeing process has been developed, involving the use of 5% sulphuric acid, 20% Glauber's salt, and 1–2% Lissapol N on the weight of goods, which enables the acid addition to the dyebath to be reduced with minimum loss of levelling end the virtual prevention of skittery absorption. Comparisons are made between the new dyeing method and previously recommended decreased‐acid methods which employed other agents. Lissapol N has been shown to be superior to other level‐dyeing assistants for chrome‐complex dyes from the points of view of greater effectiveness and greater ease of use because of non‐frothing.
The Influence of the Substrate upon the Light Fading of Azo Dyes
Authors: Chipalkatti H. R. , Desai N. F. , Giles C. H. , Macaulay N.
Published: July 2010

Several series of simple phenylazonaphthalene dyes, both water‐soluble and water‐insoluble, have been applied to a variety of substrates, and the relative fading rates of the dyes in each series on each substrate have been compared with the Hammett s̀‐values of meta and para substituents in the benzene nucleus. The fading rates on transparent substrates were measured spectrophotometrically and those on opaque substrates by visual judgment, the two procedures giving concordant results. The conclusions reached may be summarised thus–

(a) All the substrates used fall distinctly into two classes, according to the sense in which they influence the relative fading rates, viz. (i) proteins, i.e. wool, silk, and gelatin; and (ii) all other materials, including cellulose, cellulose esters and ethers, and nylon.

(b) The protein substrates may perhaps take part chemically in the fading reaction, probably by reduction of the dye. The reaction does not appear to involve either the peptide linkages or the hydrocarbon portions of the protein molecules, but may perhaps involve the tyrosine or histidine side‐chains.

(c) The non‐protein substrates may perhaps not take part, chemically, in the fading reaction, which is considered to be oxidative in the absence of protein.

(d) Differences in the light fastness of any dye on different substrates of the same class are attributable largely to differences in its state of dispersion, determined by the physical nature of the substrates.
Azoic and other Fast Dyeings on Knitted Cotton Fabric
Authors: Wiltshire E. R.
Published: July 2010

Methods of dyeing the azoic dyes on knitted cotton fabrics on the winch are described. The application of the coupling component is straightforward, but development can cause difficulty. Relatively few developers can be processed satisfactorily on the winch, and as a general method pad development is recommended. For this purpose the fabric should preferably be dried after application of the coupling component. The final aftertreatment of azoic dyeings is done very efficiently on the winch.

Pale shades can be dyed with vat dyes on the winch if adequate quantities of Dispersol VL are employed. The technique described is simple and has advantages over the use of solubilised vat dyes, particularly for blues.
The Dyeing of Acetate Rayon with Disperse Dyes I‐Aqueous Solubility and the Influence of Dispersing Agents II‐The Relation between Aqueous Solubility and Dyeing Properties
Authors: Bird C. L.
Published: July 2010

Aqueous solubilities have been determined at 25° and 80°c. for a range of purified disperse dyes. The solubilising effect of a number of dispersing agents has been examined. It is shown that aqueouS solubility has some bearing on the rate of dyeing of disperse dyes and largely governs their levelling power. Addition of a dispersing agent to an acetate rayon dyebath reduces the percentage exhaustion to an extent which is proportional to the degree of solubilisation.
COMMUNICATIONS: A Laboratory Skein‐dyeing Machine
Authors: Armfield W.
Published: July 2010

A convenient laboratory dyeing machine is described for the dyeing of skeins. Dyeings can be carried out in liquor: yarn ratios as low as 10: 1 using 5 g. of yarn. Twenty‐four dyeings can be done simultaneously at the same temperature, or a maximum of twelve at each of two temperatures. Thermo‐ static temperature control is employed, together with continuous agitation of the yarn, which is kept completely submerged. The advantages compared with the usual pot dyeing methods are listed.
The Dyeing of Acetate Rayon with Disperse Dyes IVndashAdsorption Isotherms
Authors: Bird C. L. , Manchester F.
Published: July 2010

Equilibrium isotherms have been obtained at 80d̀c. with acetate rayon and five disperse dyes. Two azo dyes showed a linear relationship up to saturation between dye on the fibre and dye in the aqueous phase. Non‐linear curves were obtained with three anthraquinonoid dyes, but a straight line was obtained when a solubilisate of 1‐methylamino‐4‐anilinoanthraquinone was used in place of a dispersion. With purified Dispersol Fast Scarlet B the slope of the isotherm was found to be independent of liquor: yarn ratio, and inversely proportional to the concentration of dispersing agent over a limited range.

The adsorption by acetate rayon of purified Lissapols C and LS has been studied at 80δc. Both detergents hydrolyse gradually in hot aqueous solution.
The Effect on Wool of Boiling in Aqueous Solutions IIndashSolutions of Ammonium Salts with and without Ammonia
Authors: Peryman R. V.
Published: July 2010

The pH values at 100d̀c. obtained by extrapolation from measurements on dilute aqueous solutions of ammonium sulphate, acetate, (diammònium) phosphate, chromate, and chloride at temperatures ranging from 18d̀c. to 80d̀c. agree approximately with the pH values at 100d̀c. calculated from the published dissociation constants of the acids, ammonium hydroxide, and water. It follows that pH measurements on The solutions at room temperatures cannot, without other data, be relied upon to indicate their pH values at 100d̀c. Ammonium salt solutions containing added ammonia can have pH values ca. 2 units lower at 100d̀c. than at 18d̀c. Ammonium sulphatendashammonia solutions of alkaline pH values8 when measured at 18d̀c. have acid pH values < 6 at 100d̀c. without loss of ammonia. Metachrome mordant solutions with room‐temperature pH values ca. 6.7–8.7 are at 100d̀c. buffered at ca. pH 6.7.

Wool yarn, boiled for 3 hr. in the ammonium salt and ammonia solutions (excluding chromate and chloride) at controlled pH values and at concentrations simulating commercial dyeing, gives degrees of modification, as measured by wet breaking load and content of disulphide sulphur, in fair agreement with the salt contents of the solutions and the pH values at 100d̀c. but not with the pH values at room temperature.
The Preparation and Properties of Regenerated Cellulose containing Vinyl Polymers IIndashStaining, Swelling, and Stiffness Characteristics
Authors: Landells G. , Whewell C. S.
Published: July 2010

Staining and swelling tests have confirmed that vinyl polymers may be readily deposited inside viscose rayon filaments and that different degrees of penetration are obtained depending on the properties of the monomer employed. Vinyl polymers increase the stiffness of viscose rayon filaments, and as increasing amounts of polymers are deposited internally the filaments become increasingly distended. About 8% of polymer may, however, be introduced without causing any change in the diameter of the fibres.
The Relation of the Reflectance of Dyed Fabrics to Dye Concentration and the Instrumental Approach to Colour Matching
Authors: Atherton E.
Published: July 2010

The factors governing the reflectance of light by a dyed fabric are discussed, and several theories relating this factor to dye concentration are noted. They may all be reduced approximately to simple reciprocal functions of reflectance. Special reference is made to a theoretical treatment, similar to that given by Kubelka and Munk, for conditions of normal illumination (such as prevail in a spectrophotometer), and the use of this theory in the prediction of matching recipes is illustrated with reference to a simple laboratory instrument.
The Iodination of Wool
Authors: Richards H. R. , Speakman J. B.
Published: July 2010

When wool is iodinated with aqueous solutions of iodine in potassium iodide at different pH values and temperatures, reaction with the tyrosine side‐chains is incomplete, even under the most favourable conditions. With alcoholic solutions of iodine, however, 96% of the tyrosine is converted into 3:5‐di‐iodotyrosine in 72 hr. at 22‐2d̀c., and there is no combination with either histidine or tryptophan.

The fact that tyrosine can be iodinated exclusively and almost completely by such a simple procedure affords a useful means of discovering whether the lysine and tyrosine side‐chains are cross‐linked when wool is treated with formaldehyde. Since the amount of iodine which combines with the formaldehyde‐treated wool, after loosely held formaldehyde has been removed with phosphoric acid, is the same as for untreated wool, it is concluded that the lysine and tyrosine side‐chains are not cross‐linked by formaldehyde. It has been shown also that the distribution of tyrosine along the length of single fibres can be determined by taking radiophotographs after the fibres have been iodinated with 131I.
Modern Resin Finishing of Textiles Practice and Research
Authors: LANDELLS G.
Published: July 2010

The lecture surveys the development of the application of synthetic resins to textiles and the interrelation of practice and research. Resin application developed first on two main lines, viz. the use of emulsions of preformed vinyl‐type polymers and the urea‐formaldehyde crease‐resist process. By using different preformed vinyl polymers a wide variety of finishes may be obtained, whereas the urea‐formaldehyde finish, which is a key finish both practically and theoretically, is itself the basis of many finishes and has been the pattern for many other types of amino‐formaldehyde resin finish. The importance of the location of the resin in or on the fibre is demonstrated in numerous systems. The use of resins for modifying handle, for imparting crease‐resistance or dimensional stability, or for fixing embossed effects is now standard practice, but synthetic resins are finding increasing use in new outlets. Thus, phosphorus compounds are now being incorporated with the amino‐formaldehyde type of resins to produce anti‐flame finishes. Research is proceeding in the field of isocyanate chemistry, especially on polymer formation in and on textile fibres, and some progress is being made in practical application. A new class of polymeric substances– the silicones–has opened up a completely new field in the progress of water‐repellency. It is shown that resin application to textiles is now a specialised study and that many more new developments may be expected.
Polarographic Investigation of Fur Dyes and their Oxidation Products
Authors: SANDBERG G.
Published: July 2010

The effect of pH on the oxidation of p‐phenylenediamine has been investigated. It has been found that the maximum yield of one of the oxidation products– benzoquinone‐1:4‐bis‐(2:5‐diaminoanil). is obtained in a pH interval at which acidity has a marked effect on the state of aggregation of this compound. A change of pH from 6.0 to 7.3 causes its diffusion coefficient to change from 4.8 × 10‐6 to 1.0 × 10‐6 sq. cm./sec.

As this pH interval covers that used in technical fur dyeing, even small fluctuations in pH have an intricate effect on the diffusion properties of this oxidation product, and therefore also on fur dyeing. Absorption spectroscopy indicates qualitative differences between oxidation products formed at different pH values. There is equivalence between the shifts of position and changes of shape of the absorption bands and the observed changes in slope of the curves of half‐wave potential against pH for the different products.

Catalase in the presence of hydrogen peroxide accelerates the oxidative condensation of benzoquinone‐1:4‐bis‐(2:5‐diaminoanil). This change can thus be effected very rapidly without applying the usual chromium or copper salts.

Some applications of vertical paper electrophoresis are given, including separation and identification of oxidation products formed under different conditions, and also demonstration of differences between the dissociation constants of different nitro derivatives.

Besides the use of the analytical results in determining the percentages of p‐phenylenediamine and related compounds in batches from different suppliers, polarography provides a valuable means of determining exhaustion curves in dyebaths, usually comprising a mixture of five or six oxidisable, reducible, and non‐reducible substances, where colorimetric methods would meet with difficulties. Hydrogen peroxide, which is always present, is eliminated by the addition of catalase to the different samples of dye liquor.
Interaction between Chlorazol Sky Blue FF and Chrysophenine G in Aqueous Solution
Authors: DERBYSHIRE A. N. , PETERS R. H.
Published: July 2010

The absorption spectra of mixtures of Chlorazol Sky Blue FF and Chrysophenine G in aqueous solution have been measured at room temperature and at 60°c. Spectra of regenerated cellulose sheet dyed with the two dyes from mixture dyebaths have also been determined. Paper and column chromatography on mixtures of the two dyes confirm the formation of complexes, deduced from the spectral measurements. The heat of formation of the 1:1 complex of the two dyes, measured by direct calorimetry, is –15 kcal. per mole. Finally, equilibrium adsorption of the two dyes by cotton from mixture dyebaths has been determined.

It is concluded that formation of a 1:1 complex occurs in aqueous solution to an appreciable extent even at 90°c. This complex formation explains in a semi‐quantitative way the change in dye adsorption compared with that of the same dyes when applied singly. It is very probable that failure of dyeing data on single dyes to predict the behaviour of the same dyes in mixtures is due to interaction of this kind between the dyes in solution.
The Swelling and Solution of Synthetic Fibre‐forming Polar Polymers in Liquids*
Authors: Moore W. R.
Published: July 2010

The general principles governing the interaction of organic liquids and synthetic fibre‐forming polymers (including cellulose acetate) are considered, and the factors which determine whether a liquid will dissolve or swell a given polymer are discussed.
Studies in Hydrogen‐bond Formation VI—The Rôle of Hydrogen Bonds in Dyeing Processes*
Authors: Campbell D. S. E. , Cathcart D. , Giles C. H.
Published: July 2010

The results of a refractometric study of the formation of intermolecular hydrogen‐bond complexes in water between aromatic compounds, including sulphonated dyes, and a variety of other reagents, including casein, used as models of fibres, are interpreted as an indication of the nature of possible hydrogen‐bond complexes between dyes and fibres. Some conclusions are— (a) Non‐ionic polar groups in dyes and other aromatic compounds, whether sulphonated or not, can form intermolecular hydrogen‐bond complexes in water with a variety of organic compounds. (b) Hydrogen‐bond formation between dyes and fibres in presence of water appears to be possible with protein fibres, nylon, cellulose acetates, Terylene, and acrylonitrile fibres, but is less likely to occur with cellulosic fibres. Suggestions are made regarding the nature and the position of the dye–fibre bonds.
A Method of Isolation of a Cuticle Sheath from Wool Fibres
Authors: ELLIOTT R. L. , ROBERTS J. B.
Published: July 2010

Previous work on the wool fibre has resulted in the isolation of two membranous components, viz. the epicuticle and the cortical cell membranes, and the postulation of the presence of a third membrane, viz. the subcutiole membrane, or endocuticle. The present work describes the isolation from the wool fibre of a cuticular sheath, which has been shown to consist of epicuticle and endocuticle. The method described employs oxidation with potassium dichromate followed by extraction with ammonia. The material resistant to this treatment was examined in the optical microscope, and its morphological significance was confirmed by electron‐microscopic studies of gold‐shadowed residues. Electron microscopy also revealed a fibrillar and microfibrillar structure of the endocuticle, thus explaining the grooved appearance of the surface of damaged wool fibres (e.g. after wet chlorination). The sulphur content of the dichromate‐ ammoniaresistant endocuticle (comprising at most 2% of the original wool) is shown to be appreciably higher than that of the complete wool fibre. This sulphur is shown to be present in the form of cystine, but the resistance of the cystine in the cuticular layer to dichromate oxidation is unexplained.
Reclamation of Fibres from Rags
Authors: Atkinson J. C. , Speakman J. B.
Published: July 2010

Staining tests to distinguish between carbonisable, non‐carbonisable, and protein fibres, and between the chief non‐carbonisable fibres, have been developed. The fibres are treated with a mixture of fluorescent compounds, in presence of a stripping agent if dyed, and are then examined in ultraviolet radiation. In a few cases, notably when the non‐carbonisable fibres are heavily dyed black, stripping should precede staining.
The History and Development of Compressive Shrinkage
Authors: DAVIS F. V.
Published: July 2010

An account is given of the origins and development of machines for compressively shrinking cloth, and of the utilisation of such machines for special finishing effects. The main emphasis is on the Bradford Dyers Association Ltd. machine in its various forms.
Water‐repellent Finishes—Modern Use of Silicones
Authors: Madaras G. W.
Published: July 2010

One‐day Symposium on “New Information on Finishing Processes” held by the Manchester Section at the Manchester College of Science and Technology on 21st March 1958, Mr. J. W. Reidy in the chair

Recent developments in the application of silicones to textiles are discussed. Advantages as well as shortcomings of treatments from organic‐solvent solutions and aqueous emulsions are outlined. The importance to the industry of low‐temperature‐curing silicone compositions is stressed, and the function of organo‐metallic titanium compounds in bringing about low‐temperature catalysis is explained.
Some Aspects of the Dyeing of Acrylic Fibres, with particular reference to the Pack‐dyeing of Courtelle
Authors: Meldrum K. , Ward J. S.
Published: July 2010

The general features of the dyeing behaviour and thermoplastic properties of acrylic fibres are discussed in relation to practical dyeing operations, in particular the pack‐ and package‐dyeing of Courtelle in the form of loose fibre and slubbing. General and specific procedures for the application of disperse and basic dyes, consistent with the retention of good condition of the material, are suggested.
The Dyeing of Acrilan and Wool‐Acrilan Blends
Authors: Lister G. H.
Published: July 2010

The acid‐combining capacity of Acrilan has been determined using sulphuric acid at 60d̀c. The influence of pH on the dyeing of Acrilan with acid dyes has been examined, and the conditions required to obtain complete fibre penetration have been determined. The effect on the wool component of the blend and on the wearing properties of the cloths of the low pH required to dye Aerilan‐wool blends satisfactorily with acid dyes has been investigated. The practical problems associated with the application of acid and chrome dyes in strongly acid dyebaths are discussed, and a dyeing method for their application is suggested.
The Effect of Sulphuric Acid on Wool
Authors: Elliott R. L. , Asquith R. S. , Rawson D. H.
Published: July 2010

The attack of sulphuric acid of various concentrations on wool has been examined under different conditions of temperature and time of treatment. The damaged fibres have been observed microscopically, and results correlated with weight changes and amide‐nitrogen analyses.

The attack has been shown to be of the following main types—

Hydrolysis in concentrations of acid up to 44% concentrated sulphuric acid by weight.

Rapid dissolution in concentrations of acid between 44% and 81‐3%, the histological attack being different from the simple hydrolytic attack in (1).

A slow attack, at concentrations between 93% and 98%, which becomes considerably more rapid at temperatures above 60%.

A rapid oxidative attack and dissolution, presumably due to free sulphur trioxide, in acid concentrations above 98%.

At. higher temperatures, all types of attack are more rapid.
Dyeing Properties of Mature and Immature Cotton
Authors: Furvik Nils‐Bertil
Published: July 2010

Laboratory dyeing experiments, carried out with direct dyes on immature and mature cotton fibres of known origin, showed that the maturity did not affect the amount of dye absorbed at equilibrium. The absorption and desorption rates, however, were higher for immature than for mature fibres. Mercerisation of the fibres before dyeing did not greatly affect the differences.

The causes of why immature fibres in general and especially in neps look lighter in colour than the rest of the fabric are discussed. A theory is put forward that, besides the effect of optical differences, the differences in depth are caused by the more rapid desorption of dye from immature fibres. Such differences would be exaggerated by unsuitable processing conditions, e.g. during rinsing, which was confirmed by some laboratory dyeings on fabric samples.

From the results, it was predicted that, in order to obtain an even colour on a fabric containing immature as well as mature fibres, dyeing should not be carried on until equilibrium is reached and that rinsing and aftertreatments should be carried out so that the dye desorption will be as small as possible.
The Art of Costume
Authors: Buck Anne M.
Published: July 2010

A well illustrated account of the trends of European fashion in clothes during the past few centuries is summarised.
The Application of Reactive Dyes to Viscose Rayon
Authors: Fowler J. A. , Preston C.
Published: July 2010

Reactive dyes of the Procion type* offer a versatile dyeing system for producing dyeings of attractive colour and good fastness to washing. A merit of the Procion system is that, since it is based on a simple chemical reaction with the fibre, it is capable of variation in easily controlled and readily understood ways common to many chemical reactions. The rate of the fixation reaction can be made to vary from slow at room temperature and mild alkalinity to rapid at high temperature or high alkalinity, intermediate rates being achievable at will by controlling various simple factors. Choice of method of dyeing is therefore wide and will depend largely on the particular equipment readily available.
Studies on Aminoanthraquinone Compounds II—Photochemistry of Dyed Polymer Films
Authors: Egerton G. S. , Roach A. G.
Published: July 2010

A study has been made of the action of near ultraviolet radiation and visible light on transparent polymer films of cellulose acetate, nylon, and N‐methoxymethylnylon dyed with six aminoanthraquinones (1‐ and 2‐mono‐, 1:4‐ and 1:5‐di‐, 1:4:5‐tri‐, and 1:4:5:8‐tetra‐aminoanthraquinone). The reaction was followed spectrophotometrically in a closed system of dry nitrogen or oxygen. The general feature of the exposures in oxygen is a decrease in optical density throughout the spectrum. This is particularly a feature with the 1‐ and 2‐amino compounds. With the derivatives substituted in the 1 and 4 positions there is a reduction in the intensity of the twin peaks in the visible region, the rate of decrease being greater for the peak at longer wavelength, and in some cases a general absorption band replaces the twin peak system. The rate of fading of 2‐aminoanthraquinone on nylon and cellulose acetate film is as great in nitrogen as in oxygen, although with 1:5‐diaminoanthraquinone the rate is greater in oxygen. The light fastness of the aminoanthraquinones is greatest on cellulose acetate film, intermediate on nylon, and least on N‐methoxymethylnylon. Among the six aminoanthraquinones the light fastness on a particular substrate is least with 2‐amino‐ and 1:5‐diamino‐anthraquinone, and greatest with the 1, 1:4, 1:4:5, and 1:4:5:8 compounds. On exposure in nitrogen, but not in oxygen, of 1‐amino‐ and 1:5‐diamino‐anthraquinone on N‐methoxymethylnylon, a new peak around 400 mμ. is formed. Under the same conditions 2‐aminoanthraquinone behaves differently.
Transfer of Disperse Dyes to Cellulose Acetate during Steaming
Authors: Daruwalla E. H. , Limaye V. R.
Published: July 2010

The work reported by Daruwalla and Turner1 has been extended to include a study of the transfer of selected aminoanthraquinone and aminoazo disperse dyes to secondary cellulose acetate. The effects of particle size and chemical structure of dye, presence of dispersing agents, and different thickener compositions have been examined for appropriate conditions of application. With the majority of the dyes studied a constant partition of dye between cellulose acetate phase and thickener phase at equilibrium is maintained with increasing proportions of dye in the system until saturation of the cellulose acetate with the dye is reached. Study of binary mixtures of selected dyes indicates that the transfer characteristics of one component are unaffected by the presence of the other. The results are discussed with special reference to quantitative studies by other workers on the behaviour of these dyes during dyeing.
Fluorescent Brightening Agents
Authors: Adams D. A. W.
Published: July 2010

The nature of fluorescent brightening agents, their historical development, properties, and uses are reviewed, and some details are given of their application in soap and detergents, in textile processing, and in the production of paper. Their chemical constitution is then discussed, and indications are given of the effect on their properties of changes in structure.
Xenon–arc Fading Lamps
Authors: MCLAEEN K.
Published: July 2010

The first two models of commercially available fading lamps based on xenon arcs have been studied to determine how closely they approach the conditions necessary to duplicate an average daylight exposure in the United Kingdom. Modification of the original lamp design is necessary to obtain the required effective humidity.
Variations in the Assessment of Light–fastness Exposures
Authors: MCLAREN K.
Published: July 2010

Ten specimens exposed against the light–fastness standards have been assessed by 72 observers by the method described in B. S. 1006: 1055. The results are expressed in conventional statistical terms, and their significance is discussed. The most important factor affecting the agreement among assessors was off–tone fading, –which caused a considerable reduction in agreement. The amount of experience the assessor possessed was generally quite unimportant.
The Dyeing of Cellulose Acetate with Disperse Dyes VIII– Determination of Fibre Saturation Values
Authors: BIRD C. L. , PARTOVI H. K. , TABBRON G.
Published: July 2010

Fibre saturation values have been determined at 60° and 80°c, in presence of a dispersing agent, for 15 disperse dyes on secondary cellulose acetate. In most cases the results agree with those obtained by calculation from aqueous solubilities and partition coefficients in the absence of dispersing agent. With the more hydrophilic disperse dyes, however, e. g. those containing two N–β–hydroxyethyl groups, low values are obtained in presence of dispersing agent. This is attributed to adsorption of dispersing agent rendering the fibre more hydrophobic.

When a fibre saturation value is determined by means of a single dyeing carried out in presence of a large amount of commercial dye, the result may be much too high owing to (a) the presence of coloured impurities and shading components and (b) the absence of sufficient dispersing agent to stabilise the concentrated dispersion and so prevent surface adsorption of dye by the fibre.
The Fifth George Douglas Lecture
Authors: Gutmann Walter
Published: July 2010

Meeting held at the Midland Hotel, Bradford, on 5th November 1958, Mr. John Boulton (President of the Society) in the chair

On the basis of the four fundamental requirements of textiles— sales appeal, wear resistance, ease of maintenance, and body protection— a survey is given of the resulting problems for the textile finisher. The contributions of chemistry and application development as well as recently of physics, mathematics, and electronics to modern finishing techniques are demonstrated by several examples with textiles of natural and synthetic fibres. The results obtained and possible achievements of future research work are considered. The present outstanding task is seen to lie in gaining precise and complete knowledge of the interrelationship between garment and human body to provide maximum comfort in clothing for any type of use by adjusting the fabrics to the necessities of body comfort.
Felisol An International Informative Label for Colour Fastness
Authors: McLaren K.
Published: July 2010

Meeting of the Manchester Section held at the Textile Institute, Manchester, on 19th December 1958,

Mr. J. W. Reidy in the chair

A historical account of the development of the International Association for the Felisol Fastness Label with special reference to the technical problems of issuing an informative label concerned with colour fastness.
The Mechanism of the Coupling Process
Authors: Bradley W.
Published: July 2010

The development of modern views of the mechanism of the coupling process is reviewed.
The Dyeing of Polyester Fibres and Blends
Authors: Partridge H. W.
Published: July 2010

One‐day Conference of the West Riding Section held at the Bradford Institute of Technology on 7th November 1958, Mr. R. Heaton in the chair

The first part of this paper reviews the methods at present employed in dyeing yarns and hosiery composed of 100% polyester fibre. The use of disperse dyes in conjunction with carriers and the adoption of high‐temperature dyeing methods in the application of disperse dyes and azoic combinations are discussed, with descriptions of the machines employed. The second part of the paper is devoted to the methods employed in the dyeing of blends of polyester fibres with wool, cotton, and nylon.
The Use of Colour in Cosmetics
Authors: Anstead D. F.
Published: July 2010

Meeting of the London Section held in the, rooms of the Royal Society, Burlington House, London, on 6th November 1959, Dr. T. H. Morton in the chair
An Autoradiographic Method Based on Tritium for Locating Resin Finish in Textiles
Authors: Park G. S.
Published: July 2010

The preparation of tritium‐labelled formaldehyde and its use for the autoradiographio determination of the distribution of urea‐formaldehyde resin finish in textiles are described. The resin is found to be uniformly distributed in any filament cross‐section with no resin layer on the surfaces, except in certain unusual cases. The distribution of resin across fabric sections is consistent with migration occurring during drying to those regions where drying is the most rapid. The results of some unusual methods of treatment are given. Resin distribution in a blended fabric has been determined. The autoradiographic method and a staining method for the determination of resin distribution have been compared.
Vat Dyeing of Cotton Fabric by Pigmentation Methods
Authors: Fox M. R. , MAWSON J. F.
Published: July 2010

A brief survey of practical vat pigment padding procedures is supplemented with data on the physical properties of suitable dyes. The effect of particle size on rate of reduction is discussed in relation to its practical implications, as well as factors such as colour yield, dispersion stability and migration effects during drying. The use of a new organic polyelectrolyte as a migration inhibitor is described.
New Ideas in the Application of Phthalocyanine Derivatives to Textiles
Authors: Gund F.
Published: July 2010

Practical experience with the monomeric diiminoisoindoline and the metal–polyisoindolines is described, and the differences between Phthalogen dyes of these two types are discussed in connection with their dyeing characteristics and their methods of application. New Phthalogen products based on a monomeric compound of analogous structure to the diiminoisoindoline, but containing an additional heterocyclic ring, are described. An outline is given of the properties of the azoic coupling component, Naphthol AS–FGGR, which is a phthaloeyanine derivative.
The Permanent Creasing of All‐wool Fabrics*
Authors: Wolfram Maria A. , Speakman J. B.
Published: July 2010

The optimum conditions for obtaining permanent creases in all‐wool fabrics by the method which involves pretreatment with a solution of sodium bisulphite, followed by rinsing, drying at a low temperature and pressing, have been defined. Using a wide range of fabrics, the effects of the process have been compared with those of other methods of achieving the same end.
The Solubilities and Heats of Solution of Disperse Dyes in Water
Authors: Patterson D. , Sheldon R. P.
Published: July 2010

The aqueous solubilities of 16 carefully purified disperse dyes have been measured over the temperature range 60–90°C. From these results, the heats of solution in water have been found to lie mainly in the range 10–20 kcal./mole. It is suggested that the higher heats of solution are associated with the presence of hydroxyl groups in the dye molecules, and the possibility of intermolecular hydrogen bonding in the crystalline state. Values for the melting points, wavelengths of maximum absorption and molar extinction coefficients are also given.
Some Relations between the Chemical Constitution of Cibacron Dyes and their Dyeing Characteristics
Authors: Wegmann J.
Published: July 2010

The early history of the reactive dyes and the requirements for practical application are discussed. The structural elements of Cibacron reactive dyes are indicated, and the dyeing properties of such dyes of the azo, anthraquinone and phthalocyanine groups are correlated with their chemical constitution. Reference is made to the advantage of using a special detergent for washing off reactive dyeings produced with phthalocyanine derivatives.
The Dyeing of Cellulose Acetate with Disperse Dyes IX—Effect of Varying Acetyl Value
Authors: Bird C. L. , Tabbron G.
Published: July 2010

Fibre saturation values have been determined at 90°c. for two groups of three similar disperse dyes on secondary cellulose acetate, cellulose triacetate and three cellulose acetates of intermediate acetyl value. The results have been correlated with the accessibility of the substrates and the hydrophobic character of the dyes and substrates. The rates of dyeing at 90°c. of two commercial dyes on the five yarns were found to decrease with increasing acetyl value, especially above 58% acetic acid content.
The Effect of Environment and Substituents on the Photochemical Activity of Anthraquinonoid Vat Dyes and the Rôle of n‐π* Transitions
Authors: Bridge N. K.
Published: July 2010

The well‐established correlations between dye fading and the phototendering caused by vat dyes on the one hand and dye affinity, aggregation, radical stability, electromeric effects, etc., on the other, are reviewed. Recent work, including flash spectroscopy, photolysis of model systems, studies of fluorescence and absorption spectroscopy, and studies indicating the existence of both singlet and triplet n–* transitions, is discussed, and this leads to the suggestion that n–* transitions are of fundamental importance. Evidence is collected to substantiate this. Factors which may affect the transition, especially hydrogen bonds involving the n‐electrons and electromeric effects, are considered, as well as processes influencing the singlet‐triplet ratio. It is shown, in terms of the relative amounts of singlet and triplet formed, how the observed difference between the efficient cyclic process of photosensitisers can be explained. Finally, these arguments are applied to a few well‐known regularities of commercial dyes.
Antistatic Agents in the Textile Industry
Authors: Henshall A. E.
Published: July 2010

Meetings of the Midlands Section held jointly with the Nottingham Textile Society at the Gas Board Theatre, Nottingham, on 18th November 1958, Mr. A. W. Carpenter in the chair; of the Scottish Section held jointly with the Textile Institute at the St. Enoch Hotel, Glasgow, on 10th February 1959, Mr. W. G. B. Grant in the, chair; of the Huddersfield Section held at Silvio's Cafe, Huddersfield, on 17th February 1959, Mr. H. Boothroyd in the chair; and of the London Section held in the rooms of the Royal Society, Burlington House, London, on 6th March 1959, Dr. T. H. Morton in the chair

The causes of “static” are discussed and appropriate counter‐measures described. Surface‐active agents are the most convenient to use and possess the greatest all‐round utility in the textile industry. The preferred properties of antistatic agents are given and suitable test methods discussed. Antistatic agents reduce the electrical resistance of fibres and are hygroscopic, but cannot be evaluated solely on the basis of these properties. It is probable that the nature and orientation of the hydrophilio groups of the agents on the fibre determine the antistatic effect, and that antistatic agents function not only because they are hygroscopic and reduce fibre resistance, but because they are orientated in a specific manner on the fibre surface. The “ageing” of antistatic agents appears to be due to diffusion into the fibre, resulting in a reduced surface concentration and a correspondingly diminished antistatic effect; it is accompanied by an increase in the electrical surface resistance of the fibre. Antistatic agents reduce fibre resistance even at elevated temperatures and low atmospheric humidities.
The Adsorption of Non‐ionic Dyes by Cellulose
Authors: Aspland J. R. , Bird C. L.
Published: July 2010

Linear isotherms have been obtained on. viscose rayon, in the range 20‐90d̀C, with benzidine, o‐ and m‐tolidine, and derivatives of aminoazobenzene. o‐Tolidine has much higher affinity for cellulose than the non‐coplanar m‐tolidine. Heats of dyeing were found to be constant between 40 and 80d̀C. Non‐ionic dyes do not appear to form aggregates in aqueous solution.
Rates of Adsorption of Sulphuric Acid on Wool in Presence of Surface‐active Agents
Authors: Buchsbaum N. , Datyner A.
Published: July 2010

The rate of adsorption of sulphuric acid on wool is affected by surfactants. The effect of cationic and non‐ionic surfactants is small, but some anionic surfactants considerably decrease the rate of adsorption of acid, the effect depending on the concentration and on the critical micelle concentration of the agent. All agents are themselves adsorbed to various extents, and for anionic surfactants a correlation appears to exist between acid and surfactant adsorption. This correlation is no longer found if sodium sulphate is added, since this reduces the rate of adsorption of anionic surfactant, but increases the rate of adsorption of acid.
Pigments, Colour, and Paint
Authors: Bell S. H.
Published: July 2010

Colour in paints is provided mainly by insoluble pigments, which affect many other properties. Background information is given about the nature of paint and paint films, and the essential pigment characteristics. This is followed by a description of the disposition of pigment particles within paint films in relation to coloration. Finally, colour control of pigments and colour matching of paints are discussed, and comments are made on the potentialities of instrumental aids.