bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Objective Evaluation of the Trash and Color of Raw Cotton by Image Processing and Neural Network
Authors: Tae Jin Kang  , Soo Chang Kim
Published: March 2008

The trash and color of raw cotton are very important and decisive factors in the current cotton grading system. In this paper, an image system is developed that can characterize trash from a raw cotton image captured by a color CCD camera and acquire color parameters. The number of trash particles and their content, size, size distribution, and spatial density can be evaluated after raw cotton images of the physical standards are thresholded and connectivity is checked. The color grading of raw cotton can be influenced by trash if the image of raw cotton includes trash. Therefore, the effect of trash on color grading is investigated using a color difference equation that measures the color difference between a trash-containing image and a trash-removed image. Color grading of raw cotton involves a trained artificial neural network, which turns out to have a good classifying ability, suggesting that the application of an artificial neural network for color grading is highly valid.
Chemical Retting of Flax Straw Under Alkaline Conditions
Authors: Adamsen Anders Peter S. , Akin Danny E. , Rigsby Luanne L.
Published: March 2008

More controllable retting procedures to produce quality fibers from flax are sought by applying chelators at high pH and enzyme chelating formulations at lower pH. Using the Fried Test as an in vitro method for evaluating fiber separation from shive, EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) at 8 mM levels and sodium tripolyphosphate at 50 mM levels, both with 25 mM NaOH, effectively ret flax stems. Sodium gluconate, trisodium phosphate, and sulfuric acid are ineffective as retting agents. In 50 g laboratory scale retting trials, chemical retting at high pH with EDTA or sodium tripolyphosphate produces fine fiber yields (as produced through the Shirley Analyzer) that are about half that with enzyme chelator formulations; fibers are coarser with chemical versus enzyme retting. Chemical retting is influenced by chelator type and level, sodium hydroxide levels, and plant condition and maturity. These factors plus resultant fiber properties require consid eration when optimizing chemical retting with chelators at high pH.
Identifying Important Parameters for a Continuous Bioscouring Process
Authors: Lenting H.B.M. , Zwier E. , Nierstrasz V.A.
Published: March 2008

Compared to a bioscouring process in the batch mode, a continuously operating process requires relatively short processing steps. This study focusses on minimizing the required enzymatic incubation time. It is clear that the presence of a sufficient level of surfactant is of major importance in obtaining a satisfying level of water absorbency in a limited time frame. Surprisingly, it is also clear that, although essential, the level of pectin degradation is less important. The most crucial factor in the whole bioscouring process is the removal of the enzyme-weakened cuticle compounds in the rinsing phase. Rinsing at high tem peratures in the presence of surfactant and chelator is most efficient.
Low-Force Dynamic Lateral Compression of Fabrics
Authors: Taylor P.M. , Pollet D.M.
Published: March 2008

The dynamic lateral compression of unloaded fabric panels is studied under forced vibration at frequencies ranging from 5-105 Hz, as part of an investigation into the scientific understanding of vibratory feeding and orientation of fabrics for garment automation. Frequency scans of several fabrics indicate that textiles with a low static compressibility behave like a stiff spring, while others behave like a second-order system. Dynamic stiffness and damping depend on the excitation and are implemented in a Kelvin-Voigt model. Both viscous and hysteretic damping are investigated, and a com parison shows that the simpler viscously damped system gives an adequate first-approx imation to the experimental data.
Classifying Fleece Fabric Appearance by Extended Morphological Fractal Analysis
Authors: Jinlian Hu  , Binjie Xin  , Hao Jing Yan
Published: March 2008

Image analysis techniques have been widely accepted as objective methods for evalu ating fabric appearance. This paper presents the development of a fairly new fractal analysis method (extended morphological fractal analysis) for characterizing polar fleece fabric appearance after abrasion. The digital gray level image is treated as a three- dimensional surface whose fractal dimension is calculated by performing a series of dilations and erosions on this surface and plotting the area of the resulting set of surfaces against the size of the structuring element. In contrast to a single morphological fractal .parameter, which is scale-invariant, extended fractal analysis is able to characterize fabric textures where the roughness of these textures is not necessarily scale-invariant. This approach can be used to physically describe surface roughness and texture regularity with the parameter MFV (multiscale fractal vector) and to classify the appearance grade with the Bayes classification method. Our experimental results demonstrate that a good correlation can be established between estimated grades and subjective grades.
Water Vapor Transport Through Protective Textiles at Low Temperatures
Authors: Bartels Volkmar T. , Heinz Umbach Karl
Published: March 2008

This article surveys the physiological impact of waterproof textiles on the wearers of protective clothing. Wearer trials with test subjects in a climatic chamber involve ambient temperatures of +20. 0, and -20°C. The physiological function of breathable materials in comparison to a water vapor impermeable construction is quantified. Results show that water vapor permeable constructions offer a clear benefit to wearers at all tested temperatures: moisture accumulation in the breathable protective garments and in whole clothing systems are much smaller than in the nonbreathable one. Additionally, the ratio of evaporated sweat to produced sweat E/P is much higher for breathable constructions. Differences are statistically significant at levels of p > 0.995 or higher. There is no indication of a temperature dependency of the water vapor resistance of hydrophilic membrane laminates, but results show that. especially at ambient temperatures far below the freezing point. such breathable foul weather protective textiles still offer a great benefit to wearers.
Predicting the Nep Number in Cotton Yarn—Determining the Critical Nep Size
Authors: Frydrych Iwona , Matusiak Malgorzata
Published: March 2008

Neppiness is one of the most important aspects of cotton yarn quality and significantly influences the appearance of woven and knitted fabrics produced from that yarn. The direct sources are neps and trash contained in the cotton fiber sliver feeding the spinning frame. Nevertheless, not all neps cause yarn faults. For each yarn linear density, there exists a critical nep size above which neps are registered by an Uster tester as yarn imperfections. Determining the critical nep size is important from the point of view of predicting the nep number per 1000 m of cotton yarn. We consider and elaborate on theoretical models of critical nep size as a function of the linear density of cotton ring spun and OE yarns. On the basis of our equations, we calculate the critical nep size for different yarn linear densities. The experimentally obtained results confirm our theoretical models.
Grinning of ISO 514 Stitched Seams on Knitted Fabrics Under the Effects of Repeated Extension and Recovery
Authors: Uçar N.
Published: March 2008

This study attempts to better understand the seam grinning behavior of four thread overlock seams (stitch type ISO 514, seam type Ssa-1, superimposing two plies of material) on knitted fabrics under the influence of repeated extension and recovery. The effects of the mechanical properties of the fabrics, the sewing threads, and the stitch properties on the amount of seam grinning are experimentally investigated and statistically analyzed. A bivariate correlation analysis reveals that an increase in knitted fabric rigidity and sewing thread extensibility, as well as a decrease in stitch density. results in an increased amount of seam grinning.
Part I: Wear Model of Cut Pile Carpet
Authors: Liu H. , Tandon S.K. , Wood E.J.
Published: March 2008

Modem probability fracture mechanics forms the foundation of Carnaby's carpet durability theory. On the basis of this theory, mathematical models have been developed to predict the wear life of wool cut pile carpet. In this paper, the existing models are upgraded to provide an accurate mathematical expression of Carnaby's theory, in line with the current advances in knowledge about the fatigue mechanism of wear in wool carpet, The life distribution function proposed by Camaby is redefined to achieve a direct measurement of the model parameters. The advanced model gives a better fit to the experimental observations than the previous one.
Part II: Wear Model of Loop Pile Carpet
Authors: Liu H. , Tandon S.K. , Wood E.J.
Published: March 2008

A two-stage wear mechanism in a loop pile wool carpet is confirmed by current experi mental studies. A loop pile wear model is then developed on the basis of the two-stage wear mechanism. This model meets the initial and final conditions of carpet wear and shows that a loop pile construction of similar pile density has a longer life than the cut pile construction, as proved by observations. The sensitivity tests show that the delay of second-stage wear is insignificant to the wear life of a loop pile wool carpet, whereas the influence of the shape parameters b and B of the life distributions is remarkable.
Effect of Whole Cellulase on the Supramolecular Structure of Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Rousselle Marie-Alice , Bertoniere Noelie R. , Howley Phyllis S. , Goynes Wilton R.
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabrics are treated with cellulolytic enzyme preparations to alter the appearance of their surfaces. Desired objectives can be to effect a washed appearance in denims. to impart a smooth appearance by removing surface fuzz fibers, or to remove tangled bundles of surface fibers that do not pick up dyes and thus result in white specks. Such treatments are very mild and have been commercially successful. This study elucidates the effect such treatments have on the molecular, supramolecular, and morphological structures of cotton cellulose. Desized, scoured, and bleached cotton fabric is treated with a commercial textile cellulase preparation for 10, 60, and 180 minutes at 50°C in a 0.05 M (pH 4.8) acetate buffer in stainless steel canisters in the presence of stainless steel ball bearings. Changes are reported in fabric weight, fabric strength, fiber cell walls. moisture regain, cellulose molecular weight distribution, fiber pore size distribution, and cellulose micro structure as revealed by hydrogen bonding patterns.
Dermorubin and 5-Chlorodermorubin Natural Anthraquinone Carboxylic Acids as Dyes for Wool
Authors: Räisänen Rkka , Nousiainen Pertti , Hynninen Paavo H.
Published: March 2008

Wool is dyed for the first time with a mixture of two pure natural anthraquinone carboxylic acids, dermorubin and 5-chlorodermorubin (2:1), by means of the acid dyeing technique. The anthraquinone carboxylic acids are isolated from the fungus Dermocybe sanguinea and separated by multiplicative liquid-liquid partition using a stepwise pH gradient. The color of the dyed wool is investigated in terms of the CIELAB L*, a*, and b* parameters, and color-fastnesses to light, washing, and rubbing are tested according to ISO standards. The mixture of dermorubin and 5-chlorodermorubin dyes wool orange-red with good color-fastness properties. Our procedure is equivalent to the industrial winch- technique. The results indicate that wool has a high uptake for the anthraquinone carboxylic acids. Apparently, the ionic bonds between the carboxylate ions of the dye and the protonated amino groups of the wool enhance the color-fastness properties of the dyed fabric. Dermorubin and 5-chlorodermorubin have significant potential as textile dyes. affording useful alternatives to synthetic dyes.
Theoretical Analysis of Load-Extension Properties of Plain Weft Knits Made from High Performance Yarns for Composite Reinforcement
Authors: Hong H. , De Araujo M.D. , Fangueiro R. , Ciobanu O.
Published: March 2008

This paper presents a theoretical analysis of the tensile properties of plain weft-knitted fabric. Load-extension curves in the coursewise and walewise directions for fabrics made from glass fibers are theoretically calculated and compared with experimental results, and good agreement is obtained between them.
Mechanics of Disk-Type False Twisting
Authors: Endo Tetsuhiko , Shintaku Sukf-Nori , Kinari Toshiyasu
Published: March 2008

False twisting by means of a friction disk unit is an efficient technology used worldwide to manufacture synthetic fiber yarns that are textured. This paper proposes a new theory to analyze the yam path and the friction force exerted on the running yarn over a single friction disk. We do not apply discrete methods, but treat the system in a continuous manner using three-dimensional vector analysis and differential geometry.
Relationship Between Grab and Strip Tensile Strengths for Fabrics with Roughly Linear Mechanical Behavior
Authors: Pan Ning
Published: March 2008

A theoretical analysis is presented here to study the relationship between strengths tested using grab and strip specimens. The shear and tensile stress distributions at the portion of the grab specimen not directly stretched are derived. The total force carried by this portion is calculated, providing the difference between the test results of the two specimen types. Although the analysis is still primitive, the results nonethel ss establish a foundation for a parametric analysis to show the effects of the factors.
Polyester Fiber and Microfiber Structure by X-Rays and Viscoelasticimetry
Authors: Diéval F. , Mathieu D. , Durand B.
Published: March 2008

We have studied three polyethylene terephthalate filaments from the same manufac turer. The results of the dyeing process depend on the filament characteristics. Dyeing modifies the macromolecular organization according to the manufacturing process. To understand the dyeing influence, each filament undergoes heat treatments that reproduce the effect of dyeing. Organizational molecular modifications are determined by x-ray diffraction measurements and by a viscoelasticimeter. The study shows that drawing and shearing align macromolecules that act on the crystallinity. Thus, the crystallinity of a trilobal filament and a microfilament are almost identical, whatever the heat treatment. The less significant drawing of a circular filament provides more amorphous and more sensitive filaments for heat treatment. Super-drawing induces the existence of macromo lecular segments of great mobility. Moreover, organizational heterogeneity is detected at the time of the glass transition.
New Method of Producing Loop Fancy Yarns on a Modified Open-End Rotor Spinning Frame
Authors: Pouresfandiari Farshid
Published: March 2008

This paper proposes and discusses a new method of producing loop fancy yarns. First, we consider the fundamental parameters of loop fancy yams by determining the loop characteristics and final yam count. Second, we consider the effect of core tension and effect yarn over-feed on loop frequency and loop size (loop diameter) of loop fancy yams produced on a modified rotor spinning frame.
Using a Neural Network to Identify Fabric Defects in Dynamic Cloth Inspection
Authors: Kuo Chung-Feng Jeffrey , Lee Ching-Jeng , Tsai Cheng-Chih
Published: March 2008

In this research, an image system is used as a tool for dynamic inspection of fabrics, and the inspection sample is a piece of plain white fabric. The four defects are holes, oil stains, warp-lacking, and weft-lacking. The image treatment employs a high-resolution linear scan digital camera. Fabric images are acquired first, then the images are transferred to a computer for analysis. Finally, the data are adopted as input data for a neural network, which is obtained from readings after treating the images. In this system, there are three feedforward networks, an input layer, one hidden layer, and an output layer. Because it has the ability to cope with the nonlinear regression property, this method can reinforce the effects of image identification.
Tensile Properties of Silk Fibers Treated with Dimethylsulfoxide
Authors: Kawahara Yutaka , Hananouchi Tomohiko , Kimura Teruo
Published: March 2008

Silk fibers from the Japanese oak silkworm Antheraea yamamai are treated with hot . dimethylsulfoxide, and the changes in the fiber structure are investigated. The treatment structurally modifies silk sericin so that it becomes a tough. pleated sheet structure and also promotes crystallization of the fibroin. The treatment is effective at enhancing the tensile properties of degummed silk fibers and suppressing fibrillation through abrasion in the wet state.
Effect of Slipping Yarn Friction on Stress Concentration Near Yarn Breaks in Woven Fabrics
Authors: Rossettos John N. , Godfrey Thomas A.
Published: March 2008

The assumption of a constant friction force (simple slip assumption) on broken slipping yarns, which has been used in the micromechanical analysis of damage growth in stressed plain weave fabrics, is evaluated. In this analysis, the frictional traction on slipping yarns is variable. It starts from zero at the cut end of the yarn and approaches a constant value with exponential behavior, where the steepness of the approach depends on a parameter γ. The stress concentration factor (SCF) is determined for various values of γ as a function of increased loading. For values of γ that are expected to be physically realistic for most fabrics, the obtained SCF differs from that using the simple slip assumption by about 5%.
2.2' Bipyridine Catalyzed Peracetic Acid Bleaching of Cotton
Authors: Gürsoy Nevin Çiğdem , Dayio Habip
Published: March 2008

Peracetic acid is produced directly in the bleaching liquor from acetic anhydride and hydrogen peroxide. The effects of process parameters (concentrations of hydrogen per oxide, acetic anhydride, treatment temperature, time, and pH) and also the interactions of the parameters as they affect the whiteness, bursting strength, and water absorbency of fabric, are investigated using a full factorial experimental design with Maximize 3.6 software, and the significance order of the process parameters is established. Then a central composite experimental design is used to determine an estimated optimized bleaching recipe with the help of the software. Estimated response values of the estimated optimized recipe are also obtained from the software, and the recipe is applied to cotton fabric samples. Measured response values of the applied optimized recipe show that the measured and estimated values are very close to each other.
Texture Retention After Fabric-to-Fabric Abrasion
Authors: Berkalp Ö.B. , Pourdeyhimi B. , Seyam A. , Holmes R.
Published: March 2008

Changes in appearance brought about by mechanical abrasion may be evaluated with respect to changes in image texture properties, e.g., periodicity. This paper discusses the application of gray-scale image analysis to texture periodicity measurements in fabrics. The techniques described are appropriate for "ordered" textures with relatively well defined features such as the Miratec® class of fabrics. Our samples consist of three sets, a woven twill, a Miratec (nonwoven) twill, and a loosely bonded herringbone hydroentangled nonwoven. In general, our data show that mechanical wear may result in a decrease in texture definition and a tendency toward randomness. The Miratec fabric shows that at the same level of wear, the structure retains its appearance and exhibits no loss of texture.
Electrical Properties of Laminates Made from a New Fabric with PP/Stainless Steel Commingled Yarn
Authors: Lin J.H. , Lou C.W.
Published: March 2008

A new rotor-wrapping-twister is used to produce new yarns comprising stainless steel filaments, polypropylene nonwoven tapes, and reinforcing filaments. Rapier looms are used to weave commingled fabrics from these yams. The electrical properties of thermo plastic commingled laminates are investigated for the commingled fabrics and for lami nates heated at 170°C for 60, 90, 120, and 150 seconds. In this study, 3.65-4.89 wt % stainless steel filaments are used to determine the conductivity of the thermoplastic commingled laminates. The surface resistivity of these laminates is in the range of 103 to 105 ohms/square. The shielding effectiveness is in the range of 30 to 60 dB. The electromagnetic shielding effectiveness of these laminates is sufficient to enable them to be used as electromagnetic shielding materials.
Surface and Mechanical Property Measurements of H Technology Needle-Punched Nonwovens
Authors: Roedel C. , Ramkumar S.S.
Published: March 2008

The H 1 technology needle-punching process is a patented invention from Fehrer, AG. H 1 technology machinery is used to develop a set of polyester/cotton blended nonwoven substrates. A suitable protocol is developed to clean, process, and blend cotton with polyester fibers suitable for needle-punching on the needle-loom line. Results from the physical property measurements of the H 1 webs are reported in this paper. In addition, surface characteristics are studied using the sliding friction apparatus and scanning electron microscopy. Frictional properties are characterized by a newly derived simple friction factor.
Physical Properties of Nomex Yarns Pretreated with Various Amines
Authors: Wang Chyung-Chyung , Chen Cheng-Chi
Published: March 2008

In this study, we pretreat aramid (Nomex®) yarns with ethylene diamine (EDA), diethylene triamine (DETA), and triethylene tetramine (TETA) under different conditions and study some physical properties. The values of changes in tensile strength retention ΔTSR increase and then decrease, and basic dye uptake [D] f and wicking height WH increase with increased pretreating temperature, time period, and amine concentration. The rank of the minus values of Δ TSR for the pretreated fibers is EDA > DETA > TETA. but the tendencies of the plus values of ΔTSR and of [ D] f, WH, and shrinkage are inverse at a given pretreating temperature, time period, and amine concentration. The glass transition temperatures and densities of the crystals are ranked as EDA > DETA > TETA. Surface etching on TETA pretreated fibers is more obvious than on EDA pretreated fibers. The polymer chains of aramid fibers may rearrange through shrinkage of the fibers during pretreatment, and some degradation of the Nomex polymer chains may occur at higher amine concentrations.
Effects of Yarn and Knitting Parameters on the Spirality of Plain Knitted Wool Fabrics
Authors: Chen Q.H. , Au K.F. , Yuen C.W.M. , Yeung K.W.
Published: March 2008

Spirality is a particularly serious problem for plain knitted fabrics due to asymmetric loops. This study investigates the relationship between the spirality of plain wool knits and various variables. The experimental results show that the twist factor of two-ply wool yarn is the most important factor influencing fabric spirality. Loop length and fiber diameter also show significant effects. In general, increasing the twist factor of two-ply yarn, loop length, and fiber diameter increases the angle of spirality. The experimental results demonstrate that relaxation treatment of fabrics in water decreases the angle of spirality. The experimental data also lead to the derivation of empirical equations linking the angle of spirality to the twist factor of two-ply yarn, loop length, and fiber diameter in both the dry relaxed and simulated industrial relaxed states.
Effect of Crosslinking Treatment on the Crystallinity, Crystallite Size, and Strength of Cotton Fibers
Authors: Weilin Xu
Published: March 2008

In this paper, cotton fibers and their fabric are treated with butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) with the catalyst sodium hypophosfite (SHP) at different concentrations of treating agent and different curing temperatures. Results show that low curing temperatures and low agent concentrations have a slight effect on the reduction of crystallinity and crystallite size, but when the curing temperature is higher than 180°C and the BTCA concentration is higher than 6%, crystallite size and crystallinity decrease significantly. This may be ascribed to the acidic erosion of the surface of the crystals at high temperatures. An initial slight crystallinity loss induces high strength loss in the fabric. This is perhaps due to the initial slight reduction of crystallinity, which causes serious interfacial binding strength losses between the crystals and the amorphous regions.
Effect of Nozzle Geometry on the Flow Characteristics of Hydroentangling Jets
Authors: Ghassemieh E. , Versteeg H.K. , Acar M.
Published: March 2008

Cone-capillary nozzles with varying cone angles from 10° to 120° and a capillary diameter of 120μ are experimentally investigated for their application in the hydroen tanglement process. Cone-up and cone-down configurations in a range of water pressures of 30-120 bar are tested. The effects of the cone angle on flow parameters such as discharge and velocity coefficients and intact length are studied. Flow visualization techniques are used to recognize the flow regimes and characteristics and to inspect and compare the intact length and appearance of the jets. Cone-down nozzles with more consistent flow properties, lower discharges, and higher velocity coefficients are more suitable for the hydroentanglement process. Single-cone nozzles without capillaries and with varying cone angles are also tested. The flow properties of the jets from the single-cone nozzles are compared with the cone-capillary nozzles of the same cone angle to study the effect of the capillary section. The effect of the interaction of adjacent nozzles on the flow from multi-hole nozzles is studied, and the characteristics of the jets from the multi-hole nozzles are compared with the single-hole nozzles.
Evaluating Fabric Wrinkle Degree with a Photometric Stereo Method
Authors: Yang X.B. , Huang X.B.
Published: March 2008

A method is proposed for fabric 3D surface reconstruction using a photometric stereo method. As an investigation of the efficacy of the method, the 3D surface of an AATCC standard wrinkle pattern is reconstructed and its wrinkle degree is measured using four index values that indicate the variation of the surface height value. The results show that there is a good linear correlation of the index value with the wrinkle degree of the pattern.
Optimum Finishing Process for PET Self-Extensible Filaments
Authors: Su Ching-Iuan , Lin Ming-Chou
Published: March 2008

For optimum finishing of PET self-extensible filaments, we study the effect of finishing conditions on the self-extensibility of POY samples from a draw-twist machine. In this work, we adopt the shrinkage/extension from a step-by-step hot treatment to measure the properties of self-extensible filaments. The experimental results show that the optimum conditions are 1.07 pre-draw ratio, 6% over-feed ratio, 100°C pre-heater roller tempera ture, 170°C heater plate temperature, and 800 m/min yarn speed, resulting in steady production and better quality of self-extensible filaments.
Effect of Water Jet Pressure Profile and Initial Web Geometry on the Physical Properties of Composite Hydroentangled Fabrics
Authors: Pourmohammadi A. , Russell S.J. , Höffele S.
Published: March 2008

The effect of a water jet pressure profile (WJPP) and initial web geometry on the properties of hydroentangled fabrics is investigated. Different web structures (obtained by parallel, cross, and air-laid formation) are produced and hydroentangled at the same total pressure but with different water jet profiles. Composite structures are also made by combining different web structures followed by hydroentangling. The fabrics are then characterized in terms of key physical properties. Although the total pressure may be constant, the WJPP influences the tensile properties of fabrics, especially those containing air-laid structures. The results also suggest that to produce high tenacity fabrics, the webs should be hydroentangled on both sides at almost the same total pressure. The MD/CD strength ratios indicate that the most isotropic fabrics are air-laid, composite web struc tures combining cross and parallel-laid webs.
Lipid Detergency as Observed by the Quartz Microbalance Method
Authors: Shimomura Kumiko , Onozawa Haruko , Komiyama Jiro , Sehata Akiko
Published: March 2008

Removing solid lipids with surfactants in an aqueous solution is observed with a quartz crystal microbalance. The pH of the bathing solution is adjusted to 7.0-12.0 at 25 and 30°C. Concentrations of four anionic and nonionic surfactants vary from far below the CMC to ten times the CMC. The alkalinity of the solution at pH 9.0-12.0 causes swelling of the lipids by about 10%, but adding surfactants results in swelling up to 10-20%, followed by lipid removal by solubilization. This removal takes place at concentrations lower than the CMC. From this fact and the dependence on surfactant concentration of the removal rates by the two kinds of surfactants, we can infer that micelles of anionic surfactants do not participate in the removal, while those of nonionic surfactants do participate.
Behavior of Stretchable Textiles with Spatial Loading
Authors: Strazdiené E. , Gutauskas M.
Published: March 2008

A comparative analysis of two kinds of highly stretchable orthotropic textile materials (woven and knitted) reveals their behavior with spatial biaxial (membrane and punch) deformation. The investigation is illustrated by uncommon experimental cases when perpendicularly loaded disc-shaped specimens experience a stressed state very close to uniaxial tension, i.e., one of the two stresses of biaxial tension becomes negligibly small compared to the other. The conditions for a spatial textile shell to achieve an unstable shape, i.e., to wrinkle, are also analyzed.
Effect of Cellulose Pulp Type on the Mercerizing Behavior and Physical Properties of Lyocell Fibers
Authors: Chae D.W. , Choi K.R. , Kim B.C. , Oh Y.S.
Published: March 2008

Various crimped lyocell fibers are spun from isotropic dopes of cellulose solutions in N-methyl morpholine N-oxide (NMMO) monohydrate with different compositions of hard wood and softwood pulp (IPS lyocell fibers). The physical properties of IPS lyocell fibers treated with NaOH aqueous solutions are compared with those of commercially available Tencel lyocell fibers, which are obtained by anisotropic phase spinning. WAXD reveals that pulp composition has little effect on crystalline structure, and IPS lyocell fibers yield a crystalline structure almost the same as that of Tencel fibers (cellulose II structure). Alkali treatments affect physico-mechanical properties such as compaction and tensile proper ties. Mercerization with 10 wt% NaOH solution causes the largest weight loss and the highest degree of swelling. Lyocell fibers show a notable decrease in tensile strength when treated with strong alkali solutions higher than 7.5 wt%. In addition, IPS lyocell fibers with more softwood content display less reduction in tensile properties after strong alkali treatments.
Relation Between Frictional Characteristics and the Strings' Ability to Make a Tennis Ball Spin
Authors: Bao L. , Sakurai M. , Nakazawa M.
Published: March 2008

The spin of a tennis ball during play is an important factor. There are two kinds of racket strings, one that causes the ball to spin, and the other makes spinning difficult. The relationship between the spin behavior of a tennis ball and the mechanical properties of the strings is discussed. Rotations of the ball after impact are observed by high-speed photography. The rotational speed of the ball increases with the impact speed, and the speed depends greatly on string type. The frictional characteristics of the strings and ball are measured by an apparatus that reveals a good correlation between the static coefficient of friction of the strings and the spin of the ball when the impact speed is low. Spinning behavior is predicted by measuring the coefficient of friction for the strings. The tenden cies of the measured frictional characteristics agree with sensitivity evaluations by users.
Polyethylene Glycol/Polydimethylsiloxane Polyester Products as Leveling Agents in Nylon Dyeing
Authors: Liu Hsin-Jiant , Lin Li-Huei , Chen Keng-Ming
Published: March 2008

A novel series of water-soluble PEG-silicone polyesters surfactants is prepared by polymerization of polyethylene glycol (PEG), maleic anhydride (MA), polydimethylsilox ane, and fumaric acid (FA). The unique structural features of these surfactants are confirmed by FTIR, 1H-NMR, and elemental analysis. The presence of these surfactants retards the rate of nylon dyeing with acid dyes, which, along with the low-foaming property of these novel PEG-silicone polyesters, makes it possible for these surfactants to be used as leveling agents for modem nylon dyeing with acid dyes.
Comparing the Hairiness of Solospun and Ring Spun Worsted Yarns
Authors: Chang Lingli , Wang Xungai
Published: March 2008

This paper compares the hairiness of Solospun yarns with conventional ring spun worsted yams of the same specifications. A 24-spindles worsted ring spinning frame is used to spin the Solospun and conventional ring spun yarns at the same time, and yarn hairiness is measured. The total hairiness number ( Tp), the number of hairs longer than or equal to 3mm ( S3), the percentage of longer hairs in total hairs (100 S3/ Tp), and the total hair length per unit yarn length (K' ) are used to compare the hairiness of these yams. The results indicate that the Solospun yarn exhibits less hairiness in each of the hair length groups and has lower variations in yarn hairiness. The hair-length distribution of the Solospun yarn follows an exponential law just like conventional ring spun yams. There is a statistically significant difference between the Solospun and conventional ring spun yams for T p, S3, and K', but the difference in 1 00 S3 /Tp is not statistically significant for these yams. In addition, the Tp, S3, and K' values of the Solospun yarn decrease with twist increase and increase with spindle speed increase, but the 100 S3/T p values of the Solospun and conventional ring spun yarns in this study behave differently in that they are affected by twist level and spindle speed.
Water Vapor Transport Through Textiles and Condensation in Clothes at High Altitudes—Combined Influence of Temperature and Pressure Simulating Altitude
Authors: Fukazawa T. , Kawamura H. , Tochihara Y. , Tamura T.
Published: March 2008

A new apparatus is developed to measure the Water vapor permeability resistance of textiles with and without temperature differences imposed on both sides of a specimen. Water vapor resistance is measured for a combination of temperature and pressure that simulates elevated altitudes. The effect of temperature on water vapor resistance is small. while that of pressure is significant, that is, water vapor resistance decreases with increasing simulated altitude due to an increase in the water vapor diffusion coefficient with increasing altitude. The amount of condensation in the specimen tends to increase with increasing simulated altitude. Moreover, water vapor resistance decreases apprecia bly due to increased condensation in the specimen. In addition, the reduced resistance further enhances the amount of condensation. These results indicate that decreased water vapor resistance enhances condensation in clothes and thus may cause further discomfort and a drop in body temperature at high altitudes.
Removing Pectin and Lignin During Chemical Processing of Hemp for Textile Applications
Authors: Wang H.M. , Postle R. , Kessler R.W. , Kessler W.
Published: March 2008

Pectin and lignin are both very important noncellulosic substances occurring in hemp fibers. The main task in preparing hemp fibers for textile applications is to remove these noncellulosic substances without damage to the fiber cellulose. Pectin and lignin in hemp before and after chemical processing are characterized by infrared spectroscopy. The influence of chemical processes, fiber regions, and alkaline boiling parameters on lignin and pectin removal are investigated in this paper. The results indicate that the alkaline boiling process is effective for removing pectin and lignin. There is no residual pectin in the fibers after the alkaline treatment, but there is a residual level of lignin. The concentration levels of both sodium hydroxide and sodium sulphite have significant effects on lignin removal, and there are variations in lignin properties and accessibility from the lower to the upper regions of the hemp stem.
Effect of Atmospheric Plasma Treatment on Desizing of PVA on Cotton
Authors: Zaisheng Cai  , Yiping Qiu  , Chuyang Zhang  , Hwang Yoon-Jiong , Mccord Marian
Published: March 2008

Both air/He and air/O 2/He atmospheric plasma treatments are applied to desize PVA on cotton, then PDR (percent desizing ratio) and tensile strengths of cotton fabrics and single yams are measured. XPS and SEM are used to analyze the effects of atmospheric pressure plasma treatments on PVA. These treatments can both remove some PVA sizing and significantly improve PDR by washing, especially by cold water washing. The tensile strengths of cotton fabrics treated with atmospheric pressure plasma are the same as for the unsized fabric. XPS analysis of the plasma treated PVA films reveals surface chemical changes such as chain scission and formation of polar groups, which promote the solubility of PVA in cold water. Air/O2/He plasma is more effective than air/He plasma on PVA desizing.
Characteristics of Rustling Sounds Created by the Structure of Polyester Warp Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Kim Chunjeong , Cho Gilsoo , Yoon Hyesin , Park Shinwoong
Published: March 2008

The rustling sounds of seven samples are recorded in order to determine the sound characteristics of polyester warp knitted fabrics according to construction type. Physical sound parameters (LPT, ΔL, Δf, ARC) and Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters of loudness ( z), sharpness ( z), roughness ( z ), and fluctuation strength ( z) are calculated from sound spectra obtained from FIT analysis. In addition, the KES-FB system is used to measure the mechanical properties. The sharkskin stitch fabrics have the highest LPT, Δf, ARC, loudness ( z), and fluctuation strength ( z) values, followed by the double denbigh and reverse locknit stitch fabrics. The open lap is louder, sharper, and has a larger fluctuation strength than the closed lap in stitch formation. LPT, Δf, ARC, loudness ( z), roughness ( z), and fluctuation strength ( z) of the parallel direction have higher values than those in the counter direction in lapping formation between the back and front bar. Changes in the mutual guide bar movement from counter to parallel are more effective at making a warp knitted fabric's sound louder than the lapping form change from closed to open lap.
Objective Hand Measurement of Nonwoven Fabrics Used for the Top Sheets of Disposable Diapers
Authors: Yokura Hiroko , Niwa Masako
Published: March 2008

This study investigates the objective hand evaluation of top sheet materials used for disposable diapers based on their mechanical and surface properties. Previous experience has shown that a system for men's suiting is also useful for other materials, so we have used this system to assess the hand of top sheet nonwovens in terms of three primary hand values (stiffness, smoothness, and fullness). The equations for the men's suiting hand are modified such that each of the mechanical parameters substituted into these equations is normalized by using the respective mean value and standard deviation of the top sheet nonwoven population. The objective hand value of the top sheets is derived using both the men's suiting and general nonwovens equations. The subjective hand of the top sheets is assessed by students, and the mechanical and surface parameters are measured with the KES-FB system. It is clear that the hand of the top sheet nonwovens can be predicted by the equation developed for general nonwovens, for which the calculated error is within the range of the standard deviation of the subjective hand value of each product. Correlations between the hand of the disposable diapers and calculated hand of its top sheet nonwoven are also examined. The primary hand value of smoothness of the top sheets serves as a useful indicator for estimating the diaper's hand.
Fiber Friction in Yarn—A Fundamental Property of Fibers
Authors: Campos Rui , Bechtold Thomas , Rohrer Christian
Published: March 2008

Friction between fibers inside yarns is generally important for determining the physical behavior of textiles. The tendency of cellulosic fibers to slide in a yarn directly influences the extent of fuzz formation during abrasive treatment. This paper presents a test method to determine the slipping behavior of fibers in a yarn as a function of yarn twist. Different kinds of cellulosic fibers tested with the method include lyocell, modal, viscose, and cotton. To obtain a quantitative measure, a mathematical model is established to estimate the force for fibers slipping in a yam as a function of two basic fiber parameters. μ and α: μ is the coefficient of friction of fibers in a yam and α describes fiber adherence. As a result of the calculations, these fibers can be characterized by their frictional properties in a yarn.
Influence of Microwaves on Nonformaldehyde DP Finished Dyed Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Vukusic Sandra Bischof , Katovic Drago , Schramm Christian
Published: March 2008

An alternative approach to formaldehyde-releasing conventional N-methylol com pounds is based on the use of nonformaldehyde durable press polycarboxlic acid (PCA) finishing agents. Another alternative approach, investigated here, is using microwave energy to impart durable crease resistance to dyed cotton fabric. The bifunctional dyes C.I. Reactive Red 195, C.I. Reactive Yellow 145, and C.I. Reactive Blue 221 are used in the study, and the isocratic HPLC method is employed to quantify the PCA reacted with the cellulosic material for two different curing procedures. Shade change evaluation reveals that microwave curing has a greater influence on the dE values than conventional curing. In all other aspects, primarily wrinkle recovery and deformation resistance, microwave curing offers much better results.
Characteristics of Ultrasonic Dyeing on Poly(ethylene Terephthalate)
Authors: Keun Wan Lee  , Yong Sik Chung  , Jae Pil Kim
Published: March 2008

The influence of ultrasound on the dyeing behavior of PET fibers is investigated using a disperse dye. Ultrasound, when used with a dyebath, enhances the dye uptake and dyeing rate for C.I. Disperse Red 60, which has a highly crystalline structure. For C.I. Disperse Blue 56, which has a poor crystalline structure, however, there is no influence attributed to ultrasound on dye uptake and dyeing rate. The experimental results show that there is no variation in the value of Tg for PET fibers with the dyeing method when ultrasound is used with the dyebath.
Applying a Generalized Predictive Control Theory to a Carding Autoleveler
Authors: Yueyang Guo  , Ruiqi Chen  , Jinlian Hu
Published: March 2008

Usually, a carding process is difficult to control with classic control algorithms (such as PID) for three main reasons: strong stochastic disturbance, time delays, and parameter variation. In this paper, generalized predictive control (GPC) is introduced to control such a process. First, a CARIMA model is built to describe the carding process, then the GPC control law is derived and used to design the controller for a carding autoleveler. The simulation results show that the GPC controller can greatly reduce a sliver's standard deviation and can reject measured and unmeasured step disturbance. Although this paper mainly involves the design of a feedforward-feedback GPC controller for a carding autoleveler, the methods of modeling and GPC controller design can easily be extended to a feedback case and used to design controllers for other preparatory machines' autolev elers.
Wrinkle Recovery for Cellulosic Fabric by Means of Ionic Crosslinking
Authors: Hashem M. , Hauser P. , Smith B.
Published: March 2008

Methods are developed for imparting crease angle recovery performance to cellulosic fabrics based on durable ionic crosslinks. These methods, which avoid the formaldehyde release of conventional finishes, include treating cellulose with chloroacetic acid (or an other reactive anion) and cationized chitosan (or another polycation). Alternative methods include treating cellulose with 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride or another cationization reagent) and a polyanion, or with chloroacetic acid and 3-chloro- 2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride. A method for producing highly cationic chitosan is also presented. Crease angle recovery and strength data are correlated to the amount of polyelectrolyte add-on.
Determining Effective Thermal Conductivity of Multilayered Nonwoven Fabrics
Authors: Mohammadi M. , Banks-Lee P. , Ghadimi Parviz
Published: March 2008

The average effective thermal conductivity Keff is measured for forty-eight multilayered needle-punched nonwoven samples. Samples are produced using glass and ceramic fibers layered in several different constructions and punched with needles with varying numbers of barbs. The thermal conductivities are determined at steady state, using a Holometrix guard hot plate at an average applied temperature of 455°C. Statistical results show an ability to predict effective thermal conductivity with greater than 88% accuracy. Important parameters of the model include fabric weight, thickness, porosity, and structure, along with the applied temperature. Results also show that the nine-barbed structure with the highest ceramic content has the greatest potential for thermal insulation at elevated temperatures.
Cotton Fabric Inkjet Printing with Acid Dyes
Authors: Yiqi Yang  , Shiqi Li
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabric inkjet printing with acid dyes is investigated using quaternary ammonium (choline chloride (cc)) and two crosslinking agents (DMDHEU and BTCA) to examine dye uptake. The concentrations of chemicals, the finishing conditions, and the inkjet printing processes are explored. With the aid of crosslinkers, acid inks can be used satisfactorily on cotton. Adding CC to the crosslinkers improves acid dye uptake only slightly more than using the crosslinking agent alone. A disadvantage of cc is that the loose dye stains onto white unprinted areas during laundering. The main function of crosslinkers is not only to chemically link the dye to cellulose, but also to form a crosslinked network to block the entrance of the fiber pores where dye molecules have previously penetrated.
Acoustical Characteristics of Textile Materials
Authors: Moholkar Vijayanand S. , Warmoeskerken Marijn M.C.G.
Published: March 2008

An attempt is made to identify the acoustical characteristics of textile materials using precision woven monofilament fabrics as model textiles. The experiments try to eliminate the effect of entrapped air pockets in the fabric on an ultrasound wave field. The results of the experiment reveal that the power consumption of the ultrasound horn remains practically constant after introducing the textile at different positions in the standing wave field. Measurements of transmitted acoustic pressure amplitude through the textile reveal that fabrics form an almost transparent boundary for acoustic waves. A simple model involving the structural and hydrodynamic characteristics of the textiles is proposed to determine their acoustic impedance, and the results of the experiments are explained on the basis of this model. The overall conclusion of the study is that in the absence of entrapped air, textiles do not have any individual impact on the ultrasound wave field.