bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Oxidative degradation of dyes and surfactant in the Fenton and photo‐Fenton treatment of dyehouse effluents
Authors: Ferrero F
Published: June 2006

The oxidative degradation of two dyes and a nonionic surfactant by iron(II) sulphate and hydrogen peroxide (Fenton's reagent) was studied, in the presence of UV irradiation (photo‐Fenton process). The degradation kinetics were followed by measuring the residual total organic carbon (TOC) value as a function of time at different initial TOC concentrations and temperatures. The curves interpolating the kinetic data show that the residual TOC values attained a stable level after a given treatment time; a similar trend was observed in the treatment of some dyehouse effluent samples. Moreover, by fitting experimental data, a first‐order equation was obtained that can explain the kinetic model proposed.
Computer match prediction for fluorescent dyes by neural networks
Authors: Bezerra Clovis de M , Hawkyard C J
Published: June 2006

Fluorescent dyes present difficulties for match prediction due to their variable excitation and emission characteristics, which depend on a variety of factors. An empirical approach is therefore favoured, such as that used in the artificial neural network method. In this paper, the production of a database with four acid dyes (two fluorescent and two non‐fluorescent) is described, along with the large number of mixture dyeings that were carried out. The data were used to construct a network connecting reflectance values with concentrations in formulations. The results show that, although time consuming, this approach is viable and accurate.
Decolorisation and degradation kinetics of reactive dye wastewater by a UV/ultrasonic/peroxide system
Authors: Fung P C , Sin K M , Tsui S M
Published: June 2006

The decolorisation of reactive dyeing wastewater with ultraviolet radiation and ultrasonic vibration in the presence of hydrogen peroxide was investigated by a batch operation system. Kinetic studies of the reactive dye were conducted on the effects of pH and peroxide dosage, and the performance of ultrasonic vibration on the oxidation process was also investigated. It was found that the degradation of the reactive dye followed a pseudo‐first‐order kinetic model at different pH and peroxide dosages. The relationships between the rate constants and pH, as well as peroxide concentration, were established.
Covalent fixation of hydroxyethyl sulphone dye on cotton by the use of crosslinking agent via a pad‐batch process
Authors: Yao J , Lewis D M
Published: June 2006

A trifunctional reactive crosslinker, 2,4,6‐tri{ρ‐[(2′‐sulphatoethyl)sulphonyl]phenylamino}‐1,3,5‐triazine (Tri‐SES) was synthesised and co‐applied with hydrolysed Cl Reactive Black 5 (hydroxyethyl sulphone dye) to cotton to achieve dye‐fibre covalent bonding via a cold pad‐batch process. Several factors affecting the dye—crosslinker‐cotton covalent fixation reactions have been studied and are discussed in this paper. It was found that the dye fixation was strongly dependent on the alkali type and concentration. Very high fixation values (ca. 97%) were obtained under the optimised conditions.
Effect of plasma and subsequent enzymatic treatments on linen fabrics
Authors: Wong K K , Tao X M , Yuen C W M , Yeung K W
Published: June 2006

Low temperature plasma treatments have been applied to linen fabrics prior to enzyme treatments. The effects of using oxygen and argon plasma on the bulk fibre structure, fabric properties, surface morphology and properties have been investigated experimentally by a range of methods, before and after the enzyme treatment. The results detailed in this paper indicate that the effectiveness of enzyme treatment can be enhanced by the means of plasma pre‐treatment.
The redox behaviour of CI Sulphur Black 1 ‐ a'basis for improved understanding of sulphur dyeing
Authors: Bechtold T , Berktold F , Turcanu A
Published: June 2006

The redox properties of Cl Sulphur Black 1 are studied by redox and potentiometric titration. The results permit a more detailed description of the dyestuff reduction at a molecular level. Dyeing experiments with selected reducing agents show that dyestuff reduction is important in order to obtain a certain colour depth. When tin(II) chloride or iron(II) triethanolamine are used as reducing agents, a maximum correlation between redox potential and observed colour depth can be derived and a redox potential for maximum dyestuff affinity can be determined.
A chemometric approach to understanding the bioelimination of anionic, water‐soluble dyes by a biomass—Part 2: Acid dyes§
Authors: Churchley J H , Greaves A J , Hutchings M G , Phillips D A S , Taylor J A
Published: June 2006

Using a newly developed, rapid and robust laboratory method for assessing the bioelimination of water‐soluble colorants, the level of bioelimination of a series of acid dyes has been determined. A chemometric analysis has been conducted to correlate bioelimination with chemical structure/ functionality. Bioelimination varied between 0 and 96% for the series of dyes studied, the level being generally proportional to the size/charge ratio of the dye. It has been shown that the bioelimination of acid dyes can be enhanced by the use of long, flat, hydrophobic structures bearing a number of naphthalene units or alkyl groupings together with the minimum number of sulphonate and sulphonamide groups.
Effect of sleeve colour and background colour on change in colour assessments†
Authors: Westland S , Graham C , Addison S , Sharrott P , Rigg B
Published: June 2006

The two standard grey scales, ISO 105‐A02 and ISO 105‐A03, used for assessing change in colour and staining, respectively, are both typically provided mounted in black material and within a black sleeve. However, some grey scales are now provided mounted in grey material and within a grey sleeve. This paper reports psychophysical data and shows that the change in colour grades obtained from grey scales are not affected by the background colour of the viewing cabinet. A small, but statistically significant, effect is found for the colour of the sleeve with higher grades being found when using the black sleeve compared to when using the grey sleeve. However, when the samples being assessed are masked by a sleeve of the same colour as that used with the grey scale, an extensive field trial shows that the colour of the sleeve does not affect the change in colour grades obtained under commercial conditions.
UV absorber aftertreatment to improve lightfastness of natural dyes on protein fibres
Authors: Lee J J , Lee H H , Eom S I , Kim J P
Published: June 2006

The effect of a UV absorber on the lightfastness of natural dyes has been investigated. Wool and silk fabrics, dyed with natural dyes with or without mordants, were aftertreated with two UV absorbers. This treatment improved the lightfastness of the mordant‐dyed fabric without affecting its colour or shade. The extent of photofading was evaluated by measuring the colour difference, ΔE, of the dyed sample before and after a 20 h period of irradiation under a xenon arc lamp. The uptake of the UV absorber on wool was much higher than that on silk.
Investigation of the improved dyeability of cationised cotton via photografting with UV active cationic monomers
Authors: Jang J , Ko S W , Carr C M
Published: June 2006

In this study cotton fabric was photografted with cationic monomers using UV radiation. The dyeability of cationised cotton, in the absence of salt, with three classes of dye (direct, reactive and sulphur dyes) was significantly improved due to the increased ionic attraction between the dyes and the cationic cotton. The colour fastness of the cationised fabric was similar or better than that of the untreated fabric. In addition, when cationised, crosslinked crease‐resist cotton also showed improved dyeability, in the absence of salt, to direct dyes.
Colour fastness of optionally aftertreated acid levelling and milling dyes on nylon 6.6 during washing in an activated oxygen‐bleach containing detergent. Part 2: Correlation between the fading observed in the UK‐TO test and after repeated domestic laundering†
Authors: Phillips Duncan , Taylor John , Lakhanpal Rajesh , Scotney John , Bevan Geoff
Published: June 2006

Part 1 of this study reported the fading observed when optionally after‐treated nylon 6.6, dyed with acid levelling and milling dyes, was subjected to both the UK‐TO test and multiple machine washing at different temperatures. The current study attempts to correlate the fading exhibited under the different test methodologies in an attempt to ensure that the UK‐TO test remains a reliable diagnostic test for the fading of ‘acid’ dyes on nylon 6.6 as a result of domestic laundering.
pH control in the dyeing of polyamide with acid dyes
Authors: Koh Joonseok , Sim Goohwan , Kim Jaepil
Published: June 2006

In this study, we report a number of pH control systems for the dyeing of polyamide fibres in a closed dyeing procedure. These include a phosphate buffer system and four pH sliding systems (ammonium sulphate and three hydrolysable organic esters). The dyeing properties of these systems are compared with their ability to control the pH. In comparison with sodium dihydrogen phosphate and ammonium sulphate, hydrolysable organic esters showed a much more effective pH sliding and, consequently, showed higher dyebath exhaustion and colour yields. They also showed very low conductivity, typically less than 0.5 mS. However, no difference in the levelness of the dyed samples among the five acid donors studied was observed and no difference in colour fastness of the dyed fabrics under various pH control systems was detected.
Spots before the eyes: Can ink jet printers match expectations?†
Authors: Dawson T L
Published: June 2006

The mechanism by which the coloured image is formed by digital ink jet printing is very different from that of conventional screen printing methods and success depends on the use of sophisticated software and hardware. Some commercially available systems are listed in this paper and the basic principles of the standardisation of scanners, monitors and jet printers given. Ink jet printing machines at present available for textiles are reviewed and their limitations with regard to dye selection, shade gamuts and reproducibilty are quantified. Repeatability and shade reproducibility tests of digitally printed textiles are reported showing that improvements are required in the transformation of pattern data to the printed output.
Laboratory‐ and commercial‐scale investigations into the action of cellulase enzymes on Tencel
Authors: Harnden A , Donnelly M J , York J
Published: June 2006

The surface appearance and feel of fabrics produced from the new cellulosic fibre Tencel can be enhanced by cellulase treatment. Laboratory‐scale studies have been carried out using purified Trichoderma reesei cellulase components to determine which enzymes provide a benefit and which cause detrimental effects on Tencel fibre. Two enzymes were identified as beneficial and this information was used to produce new commercial cellulase products, using genetic engineering to remove detrimental components and increase amounts of the beneficial enzyme components. The effects of the new cellulases on Tencel fibre (both 100% pure and blends) were then evaluated. The observed advantages included improved hand‐feel and reduced garment damage, especially in blends with other cellulosics.
Colour gamut of natural dyes on cotton yarns
Authors: Gulrajani M L , Srivastava R C , Goel M
Published: June 2006

Cotton fibres were dyed using various natural dyes alone and in combination to yield six basic shades: blue, yellow, red, black, green and fawn. These dyed fibres were then blended in various proportions along with undyed cotton fibres and spun on a rotor‐spinning machine to produce 204 coloured yarns. The fastness properties of the six basic shades were determined. The L*a*b* and L*C*h values of the yarns having 50% dyed fibre and 50% undyed cotton fibre was also determined. The values were plotted to obtain the colour gamut of natural dyes on cotton yarns.
Grafting of silk with electron beam irradiation
Authors: Shao Jianzhong , Liu Jinqiang , Chen Zhuliang
Published: June 2006

The radiation‐induced graft polymerisation of hydroxyethyl methacrylate on silk fabric has been studied using an electron beam irradiation technique. Two irradiation processes, pre‐irradiation and coirradiation, were compared, and some factors affecting the degree of grafting were investigated. The physical and mechanical properties such as whiteness, breaking strength and resilience of the radiation‐grafted silk fabrics were examined. The hydroxyethyl methacrylate grafting of silk with electron beam irradiation increases silk weight and improves the crease resistance of silk. Electron spin resonance technique shows the formation of free radical species on the electron beam irradiated silk and the rapid decay of radicals in water.
Study of the influence of various D65 simulators on colour matching
Authors: Lam Yuk Ming , Xin John H , Sin Kwan Moon
Published: June 2006

This study investigates the influence of various D65 simulators on visual colour matching. Spectroradiometric measurements of D65 simulators and visual assessments were obtained. The spectral power distributions of three D65 simulators were measured by spectroradiometer in a colour viewing cabinet. Based on the measured spectral power distributions, the quality of the D65 simulators were assessed using CIE No.51.2 and CIE No.13.3 methods. For visual assessment, the Davidson and Hemmendinger colour rule, which is composed of highly metameric pairs, was used in this study. The colorimetric match points and visual match points under three D65 simulators were determined. Pair‐comparison t‐tests were also used to examine the statistically significant differences among visual match points. The results show that various D65 simulators influence visual colour judgement of metameric pairs. The correlation between quality rating of D65 simulators under these two CIE methods and visual assessment was evaluated.
Dyeing and finishing of cotton fabric in a single bath with reactive dyes and citric acid
Authors: Dong Yongchun , Wang Jijun , Liu Pengfei
Published: June 2006

Simultaneous dyeing and durable press finishing of cotton fabrics with reactive dyes and citric acid finishing agent was carried out using a pad‐dry‐cure process. Factors affecting the process, such as the concentration of dye, citric acid, catalyst and alkali, as well as the curing temperature, were investigated. The dyed and finished fabrics were evaluated with respect to colour strength, crease recovery angle, breaking strength and fastness properties.
Dyeing behaviour of poly(ethylene terephthalate) fibres in supercritical carbon dioxide
Authors: Kawahara Yutaka , Kikutani Takeshi , Sugiura Kazuaki , Ogawa Satoshi
Published: June 2006

A new type of poly(ethylene terephthalate) fibre was developed via a high‐speed spinning technique. The dyeing behaviour of this fibre in supercritical carbon dioxide was compared with that of a fibre produced by conventional methods. At lower temperature and pressure, the high‐speed spun fibre, which had inherently larger crystallite sizes and lower birefringence, showed a larger dye uptake. However, when the supercritical conditions were elevated to 125 °C and 230 bar, the dye uptake of both types of fibre increased markedly and the difference in dye uptake between the fibres was reduced. The new type of fibre showed slightly higher grades in sublimation fastness tests.
Influence of bifunctionality of reactive dyes on the bending rigidity of viscose printed with polysaccharide thickeners
Authors: Kokol Vanja , Jeler Slava , Schneider Reinhold
Published: June 2006

The bending rigidity and colour depth of viscose printed with a number of reactive dyes in the presence of alginate and guar gum thickeners has been investigated. Interactions between the fabric, the dyes and the thickener were evaluated to determine the bending rigidity of the printed substrate. The results show that mono‐ or bi‐functional reactive dyes cause undesired stiff fabric handle depending on the structure (the type of the reactive system and the reactive group), the reactivity and the concentration of the reactive dye used. These interactions differ to a greater degree when guar gum thickeners are used.
Synthesis of novel dyestuffs containing sulphonamido moieties and their application on wool and polyamide fibres
Authors: Sayed Ahmed Z , El‐Gaby Mohamed S A
Published: June 2006

A new series of azo disperse dyestuffs were prepared by the reaction of sulphanilamidodiazonium chloride derivatives with indan‐1,3‐dione. Application of these dyes on wool and nylon 6.6 gave excellent results. The synthesised compounds show good biological activity towards different microorganisms.
Dyeability of corona‐treated fabrics
Authors: Carneiro N , Souto A P , Silva E , Marimba A , Tena B , Ferreira H , Magalhães V
Published: June 2006

In this study, corona technology is applied in the wet processing of cotton fabrics. The properties of cotton, such as hydrophilicity, ionisation and mechanical properties, are evaluated and compared with previous results of cuticle oxidation and morphological changes. The results of dyeings of coronatreated materials under different conditions are compared with those of raw, bleached and desized cotton. The dyeings are carried out with three different commercial direct dyes. The classical method for the processing of cotton materials and the corona discharge method are discussed and compared in order to analyse the advantages of this innovative process.
Mechanism of the degradation of Orange G by sodium hypochlorite
Authors: Kanazawa Hitoshi , Onami Tetsuo
Published: June 2006

Products in the degradation of the monoazo dye, Orange G, by sodium hypochlorite in water were investigated. A variety of products, including chlorobenzene, p‐dichlorobenzene, biphenyl, 4‐chlorobiphenyl and azobenzene, were detected in the diethyl ether extract of the reaction mixture by gas chromatography‐mass spectrometry. Three water‐soluble products were observed primarily in the reaction mixture by ion‐pair chromatography using the cationic surfactant, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide. Two of the three water‐soluble products were separated from the reaction mixture and their structures were elucidated. A possible mechanism for the formation of these products is proposed.
Dyeing studies with hydroxyanthraquinones extracted from Indian madder. Part 2: Dyeing of nylon and polyester with nordamncanthal†
Authors: Gupta Deepti , Kumari Shipra , Gulrajani Mohan
Published: June 2006

Nordamncanthal is an important constituent of the colouring matter extracted from Indian madder roots. Its dyeing properties have never been studied even though the structural characteristics closely resemble those of disperse dyes. In this study, nylon and polyester have been dyed with this colorant. Linear isotherms have been obtained, confirming that the mechanism is similar to that of disperse dyes. The dye has good affinity for both the fibres. Kinetic and thermodynamic parameters have been calculated.
pH control for dyeing polyamide in a reused acid dyebath
Authors: Koh Joonseok , Shim Goohwan , Kim Jaepil
Published: June 2006

The pH control that can be achieved in a reused dyebath was investigated. The study involved a phosphate buffer system and four pH sliding systems, including ammonium sulphate and three hydrolysable organic esters. Instead of discharging the dyebath after each dyeing cycle, the residual dyebath was analysed using a UV‐Vis spectrophotometer and reconstituted to the required concentration of dyes, auxiliaries and acid donors. The dyebath was reused for 10 cycles and colour reproducibility, levelness and fastness of the dyed samples were measured after each recycling. In comparison with ammonium sulphate and sodium dihydrogen phosphate, hydrolysable organic esters gave a stable and effective pH shifting in the dyebath reuse system. In addition, hydrolysable organic esters resulted in a very low amount of salt in residual dyebath. No deterioration in colour fastness of the dyed fabrics over 10 cycles of dyebath reuse was evident.
Control factors in the electrochemical oxidation of reactive dyes
Authors: Gutiérrez M C , Pepió M , Crespi M , Mayor N
Published: June 2006

Colour removal from textile wastewater containing reactive dyes can be achieved by using a small commercial electrochemical cell which was not specifically designed for this use. In this study, the decolorisation and electrical consumption are modelled. The results show that the electrolyte employed in the dyeing process is the main factor influencing the decolorisation of the wastewater. The flow and potential difference are also important factors controlling the electrochemical process. There are other variables such as pH and temperature that, within the intervals studied, do not have any effect on the results.
Correlation of solubility data of azo disperse dyes with the dye uptake of poly(ethylene terephthalate) fibres in supercritical carbon dioxide
Authors: Bach* E. , Cleve E. , Schüttken J. , Schollmeyer E. , Rucker J.W.
Published: June 2006

Solubility data of disperse azo dyes in supercritical carbon dioxide are presented for dyeings of poly(ethylene terephthalate) fibres with CI Disperse Red 167:1, carried out at 200–300 bar and 80–120 °C, with varying amounts of adulterants. The same dyeings were also carried out in water for comparison. Scanning electron micrographs were taken of the dyes which show a growth of dye crystals during treatment in supercritical carbon dioxide. The paper reports that at 120 °C, melting of the pure dye CI Disperse Red 167:1 is observed. The presence of adulterants in the dye formulations help prevent agglomeration by acting as spacers between the dye molecules. Dyeings of PETP carried out under conditions of the highest solubility of the dye in supercritical carbon dioxide do not necessarily result in a very high dye uptake. This was shown by pressure‐ and temperature‐dependent dyeing experiments of PETP in supercritical carbon dioxide.
Performance of lightness difference formulae
Authors: Chou W. , Lin H. , Luo* M.R. , Westland S. , Rigg B. , Nobbs J.
Published: June 2006

There are large variations between different previously published lightness difference experimental data sets. Two hundred and eight pairs of matt and glossy paint samples exhibiting mainly lightness differences were accumulated. Each pair was assessed about twenty times by a panel of fourteen observers using the grey scale method. The results were used to derive a new lightness difference formula (CII), and to a large extent, a possible new CIE lightness difference formula (CMC99). Both formulae were found to be more accurate than the typical deviation of an individual assessment from the mean of a panel of 20 observers, and outperformed the existing formulae using the present data set. The new CMC99 lightness difference formula is integrated into the new CIE colour difference equation CIEDE2000. The results also showed that special attention should be paid to measuring very dark samples. This is caused by poor instrument repeatability and inter‐instrument agreement in this colour region.
Nylon 6.6 dyeing behaviour for fibres of different levels of fineness
Authors: Viallier* P. , Jordan C.
Published: June 2006

Nylon 6.6 microfibres are now commonly produced. During dyeing, these microfibres appear to be more accessible to both acid and disperse dyes, than thicker fibres. This phenomenon is enhanced with the use of small dye molecules. In this paper, the mechanism of fixation of disperse dyes is shown to be due to adsorption as well as dissolution. In nylon 6.6 the fraction of disperse dye adsorbed is greater than the fraction dissolved. The conditions of drawing are supposed to create imperfections in the amorphous phase. The amount of microvoids created in microfibres favours the adsorption phenomena of disperse dyes via polar bonds.
Synthesis and fixation of aminocyanines to microcrystalline cellulose using cyanuric chloride as a cross‐linking agent
Authors: Pardal A.C. , Ramos S.S. , Santos L. , Almeida* P.
Published: June 2006

Although monomethine cyanines and reactive dyes, used mainly in dyeing of textile goods, are well studied, the development of cyanines with groups capable of being bound covalently to a solid support has been largely unexplored. The scope of this study was the synthesis and characterisation of aminocyanines capable of bind to microcrystalline cellulose, through the polyfunctional cross‐linking agent cyanuric chloride. In a second approach, the cyanines bound to microcrystalline cellulose in varying amounts were used as specific ligands in affinity chromatography. Two different methods to determine the amount of cyanine linked to the dyed cellulose were used, based on Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy and elemental analysis. The fixation yields of the two different cyanines bound to cellulose were determined.
In situ hypochlorous acid generation for the treatment of textile wastewater
Authors: Vijayaraghavan* K. , Ramanujam T.K. , Balasubramanian N.
Published: June 2006

An electrolytic process based on chlorine generation was adopted to treat wastewater containing textile dyes. In situ production of hypochlorous acid was achieved in an undivided electrolytic cell. The cell contained a graphite rod as the anode and a stainless steel sheet as the cathode. The generated chlorine reacts with water leading to the formation of hypochlorous acid and hydrochloric acid. The resultant hypochlorous acid, being an oxidising agent, oxidises the organic components present in the textile wastewater. In this study, the colour in wastewater containing Procion Navy and Procion Red dyes, respectively, was completely removed after 40 min of electrolysis at a constant current density of 39 mA/cm2 (where the initial dye concentrations were 3700 and 3200 mg/l, respectively). In the case of the Procion Yellow and composite dyes, complete colour removal occurred after 50 min of electrolysis (with initial dye concentrations of 3500 mg/l). Even though colour removal occurred during the electrolysis process, it required up to 180 min of electrolysis to reduce the COD values for the four dyes (Procion Navy, Red, Yellow and the composite) from the initial levels of 4520, 4200, 4170 and 4283 mg/l to 70, 45, 39 and 52 mg/l, respectively. This clearly indicates that the process removes both colour and organic components present in textile wastewater.
Effect of temperature on the ozonation of textile waste effluent
Authors: Ramasamy R.K. , Rahman N.A. , San W.C.
Published: June 2006

Ozonation in batch experiments were conducted at elevated temperatures to study the influence of temperature on the efficiency of ozonation. The effect of temperature on ozonation was determined by measuring the extent of colour removal and the reduction of chemical oxygen demand (COD) and total organic carbon (TOC) of a textile waste effluent. It was found that increasing the temperature causes a decrease in the levels of colour, COD and TOC. Complete mineralisation of the dye molecule, however, did not occur to an appreciable extent. The efficiency of colour removal was 71.3%, whilst the COD and TOC reduction efficiency was 20.3 and 19.3%, respectively, at the highest temperature studied (50 °C). The removal efficiency of COD, however, did not improve significantly when the temperature was increased from 40 to 50 °C.
Reuse of decolourised wastewater of azo dyes containing dichlorotriazinyl reactive groups using an advanced oxidation method
Authors: Uygur A.
Published: June 2006

The possibility of reusing textile wastewater in dyeing processes is investigated in this study. Wastewater was first decolourised by an advanced oxidation method and was then reused in the dyeing of cotton fabric. It was found that decomposition products of the azo dyes used in this study released hydrogen peroxide and sodium sulphate, which were found to be present in the initial wastewater following decolourisation. Removal of this hydrogen peroxide from the wastewater prior to subsequent dyeings produced a dyeing colour strength of 98.4% as compared to that of the standard dyeing. A second reuse of this wastewater resulted in a slightly lower colour strength of 94.4% as compared to standard dyeing.
Surface modification and low temperature dyeing properties of wool treated by UV radiation
Authors: Xin J H , Zhu Ruoying , Hua Junkai , Shen J
Published: June 2006

The surface modification and dyeing properties of wool treated by UV radiation have been investigated. Wool samples were exposed to UV radiation for 60 min and the surface modification of the wool fibre was investigated by X‐ray photoelectron spectroscopy. The chemical change caused by the UV treatment was identified as surface oxidation of cystine (disulphide bonds) and thereby induced changes in the dyeing properties of the wool. The dyeability of UV‐treated and untreated wool samples was determined at temperatures of 45, 50, 55 and 60 °C using CI Acid Blue 7. The UV‐treated wool samples showed greater levels of dye uptake compared with those of the untreated samples. The adsorption behaviour and diffusion coefficients were also studied. The dyeing properties of wool were enhanced by UV radiation due to the increased diffusion coefficient of the dyes in the treated wool fibres.
The effect of various anti‐setting systems in wool dyeing. Part 2: Sodium maleate based systems
Authors: Kim J , Lewis D M
Published: June 2006

Wool is subject to permanent setting reactions during dyeing at the boil. Sodium maleate additions to the dyebath exert an anti‐setting effect, and in the case of wool piece‐goods dyeing, the magnitude of anti‐setting was evaluated using the crease angle method. To achieve anti‐setting, the key reactions are the nucleophilic addition of the activated double bond in sodium maleate with wool thiolate anion groups and with free hydrosulphide anions generated by cysteine thiol decomposition. Optimum antisetting effects were achieved when wool fabric was treated with sodium maleate at pH 3. Fourier transform infrared reflectance spectroscopy was used to monitor chemical changes to the wool fibre. Compared to untreated wool, two new frequencies at 1354 and 865 cm−1 were apparent; the highest intensity values for these bands were obtained for wool treated at pH 3, which indicates that wool, being positively charged in this acidic solution, adsorbed more sodium maleate, thus enhancing the chances for nucleophilic addition reactions.
Hydrolysis and dyeing of polyester fabric using microwave irradiation
Authors: Xu Weilin , Yang Chaoli
Published: June 2006

Polyester fabric was hydrolysed using aqueous sodium hydroxide under microwave irradiation. Increasing levels of weight loss and thickness reduction were observed with increasing microwave intensity and increasing concentrations of sodium hydroxide. Comparison of the results obtained from the microwave irradiation method and the conventional heating method showed that the rate of hydrolysis was greater using microwave irradiation. The treated fabric was then dyed using microwave irradiation to heat the dyebath. Increased levels of dye uptake were observed with increasing weight loss of the hydrolysed polyester fabric.
Reactive dyeing systems for wool fibres based on hetero‐bifunctional reactive dyes. Part 2: Investigation of dyeing properties during the dyeing cycle
Authors: Cho Ho Jung , Lewis David M
Published: June 2006

The dyeing behaviour during the dyeing cycle of a Sumifix Supra dye and some other commercial reactive dyes under various dyebath pH conditions was investigated. Studies of the dyeing of wool serge fabric indicated that the diffusion properties of hetero‐bifunctional Sumifix Supra dyes generally lie between those of b‐sulphatoethylsulphone (Remazol dyes) and monochlorotriazine (Procion H dyes).
Non‐formaldehyde durable press finishing of dyed fabrics: evaluation of cotton‐bound polycarboxylic acids
Authors: Schramm Christian , Vukušić Sandra Bischof , Katović Drago
Published: June 2006

The polycarboxylic acids 1,2,3,4‐butanetetracarboxylic acid and citric acid are used as nonformaldehyde durable press finishing agents instead of formaldehyde‐releasing N‐methylol compounds. In this study, isocratic HPLC is applied in an attempt to quantify the polycarboxylic acids that react with cellulosic material dyed with CI Reactive Red 195, CI Reactive Yellow 145 and CI Reactive Blue 221. Subsequently, the fabrics are cured with formulations containing butanetetracarboxylic acid and citric acid or a combination of both. The chromatographic determination reveals that an increase in the depth of shade results in a decrease of the amount of butanetetracarboxylic acid, except in the case when the cotton is dyed with CI Reactive Blue 221, a copper formazan complex‐based dyestuff. Colour measurements indicate that the ΔE* values decrease in the order CI Reactive Yellow 145, CI Reactive Red 195 and CI Reactive Blue 221.
Colour fastness to industrial laundering: an international inter‐laboratory trial of the proposed ISO 105‐C12 test procedure†
Authors: Phillips Duncan , Scotney John , Percival Richard , Bevan Geoff , Lloyd John
Published: June 2006

A new laboratory single‐wash test procedure that describes four test conditions, ISO 105‐C12, has been developed to assess the colour fastness of textiles under industrial laundry conditions. Following an international trial, the intra‐laboratory repeatability and the inter‐laboratory reproducibility of the test were found to be fully acceptable. The results obtained under two of the laboratory test conditions were compared with five washes in an industrial laundry under similar conditions and acceptable correlations were found.
The mapping of a surface of constant visual depth in CIELAB colour space†
Authors: Chen Chao‐Chi , Wardman R H , Smith K J
Published: June 2006

Independent visual assessments of depth by a panel of four professional colourists were made on dyeings prepared along eight hue directions in CIELAB colour space. From the assessments made, the variation of lightness with chroma for dyeings of uniform depth was mapped along the hue directions. An algorithm was developed to determine the lightness on the surface for any colour of given chroma and hue angle. Whilst direct comparison with the surface defined by the Christ formula for 1/1 standard depth was not possible, it was found that qualitatively the shapes of the two surfaces were very similar. The Christ formula defined greater increases in lightness with chroma in the yellow and lime‐green regions than the surface obtained in this work, which may be due to an inconsistency of depth of the 1/1 standard depth samples in this region, as indicated by other depth formulae.
Degumming of ramie: the role of the individual constituents of the gummy material
Authors: Bhattacharya S D , Shah S R
Published: June 2006

The stepwise removal of the components of gummy material found on ramie fibres was used to determine the effects of the individual constituents on the whiteness and yellowness indices of the fibres. The main components were found to be hemicellulose, pectin and lignin and these had the greatest effect on the whiteness and yellowness indices. A spectroscopic method for assessing the hemicellulose and pectin content of the degumming bath was investigated and found to be comparable to the results of chemical analysis. The spectroscopic method was used to study the removal of hemicellulose and pectin continuously during degumming, and the data obtained were used to calculate rate constants for the degumming process.
Diffusion of disperse dyes into microfibres and conventional polyester fibres
Authors: Park K H , Casetta M , Koncar V
Published: June 2006

The dyeing properties of polyester microfibres are quite different from those of conventional polyester fibres. In this paper, the sorption isotherms, the diffusion coefficients and the amount and rate of dye uptake into the fibres are compared for both conventional fibres and microfibres. Shibusawa's approximation of Hill's equation is used to compute the diffusion coefficient, which depends on the initial dye concentration, the time and the fibre count for a fixed temperature (130 °C). The kinetic properties are analysed only under infinite bath conditions. The sorption isotherms and diffusion coefficients as functions of time for conventional polyester fibres and microfibres are compared by considering the surface area and the diffusional boundary layer influence.
Structure—reactivity studies of a new polyfunctional disulphide bis(ES‐MCT/SES) reactive dye applied to silk
Authors: Youssef Y A , Mousa A A
Published: June 2006

A new polyfunctional reactive dye containing disulphidebis(ethylsulphone‐monochlorotriazine/sulphatoethylsulphone) reactive system has been synthesised and applied to silk. High exhaustion/fixation results have been achieved at 90 °C and pH 9. The vinylsulphone precursor of the disulphidebis(ethylsulphone) group combined with a sulphatoethylsulphone/monochlorotriazine reactive system confers a relatively high fixation efficiency for this type of polyfunctional reactive dye when compared with that of a conventional bifunctional reactive dye containing the sulphatoethylsulphone/monochlorotriazine reactive system. The results also indicate that high fastness properties were obtained for the reactive dyes under investigation.
An investigation into direct dye aggregation
Authors: Ferus‐Comelo M. , Greaves A.J.
Published: June 2006

The aggregation characteristics of the direct dye CI Yellow 162 have been investigated by measuring the optical transmittance at specific temperatures, in the presence and absence of electrolyte and surfactant, using a Hellma quartz immersion probe attached via fibre optical cables to a single‐beam Zeiss Specord S 100 spectrophotometer. The experiments indicate that the dye in solution, without electrolyte, was monomolecular at temperatures of 70 °C and higher. The dye solution with electrolyte remained aggregated at temperatures up to 90 °C, a finding contrary to the still widespread assumption that the dyes are monomolecular at elevated temperatures. In the presence of a surfactant the dye appeared to be forming dye–surfactant micelles that were fairly stable even at higher temperatures.
Analysis of dyeings produced by traditional Korean methods using colorants from plant extracts
Authors: Choo C.K.K. , Lau K.S. , Lee Y.E.
Published: June 2006

In this study two 19th century dyeing recipes were used to recreate traditional Korean methods using colorants from plant extracts. Nine plants were used, either singly or in combination, to produce a wide range of colours. Some of the fabrics were then analysed for chemical identification of their dye components and mordants. The results of microchemical tests, visible spectroscopy, thin layer chromatography and high performance liquid chromatography are compiled as reference data for later comparison with the test results of antique samples that are increasingly becoming available from a number of excavations. This body of reference data will permit a more scientific understanding of traditional dyeing crafts, essential for authentic restoration and proper conservation.
In vitro measurement of the ultraviolet protection factor of apparel textiles
Authors: Algaba I. , Riva A.
Published: June 2006

The effect that ultraviolet radiation has on skin is a topic of growing interest. Textiles protect against ultraviolet radiation, but the protection provided is often not sufficient. The aim of the present review article is to clarify some basic concepts regarding the in vitro measurement of the protection factor against ultraviolet radiation provided by apparel textiles, paying special attention to the factors that are taken into account to measure it. The conditions for correct and reproducible measurement are described. The peculiarities of current standards and the details for their correct interpretation are also explained, including sample preparation and statistical calculations to determine measurement error and the adjustment of the results.
A new approach for dyeability of cotton fabrics by different plasma polymerisation methods
Authors: Özdogan E. , Saber R. , Ayhan H. , Seventekin* N.
Published: June 2006

The increased dyeability of cotton fabrics in low temperature media using two different plasma polymerisation methods was investigated in this study. In the first method, fabrics were directly treated in amine plasma (ethylenediamine or triethylenetetramine). In the second method, they were first treated in argon plasma and then immersed in an aqueous amine bath. The treated fabrics were then dyed with a reactive dye (Remazol Black B) and the colour yields and fastness properties of the resulting fabrics measured. The K/S values obtained were significantly improved when compared to the untreated fabric.
Reuse of spent dyebath following decolorisation with ozone
Authors: Hassan M.M. , Hawkyard C.J.
Published: June 2006

Spent reactive dyebaths were decolorised by treatment with ozone and reused in the bleaching, whitening and dyeing of two textile substrates. The study shows that the reuse of a spent dyebath is possible with little modification to the standard processes for dyeing cotton with reactive dyes, provided that the pH of the treated dyebath is adjusted. Moreover, the cycle of decolorisation and reuse was successfully repeated. Renovated reactive dyebaths were also reused for bleaching cotton fabric with hydrogen peroxide, whitening with optical brightener and dyeing polyester fabric with disperse dyes. The whiteness index of bleached and whitened cotton was comparable to that of the same fabric given a control treatment with fresh baths. Likewise, there was a negligible colour difference between polyester dyed using liquor from a spent reactive dyebath and the same fabric dyed in a new bath.
Degradation of reactive dyes by supercritical water oxidation in a batch reactor
Authors: Koech G.C. , Hatakeda K.
Published: June 2006

The supercritical water oxidation of three reactive dyes in a batch reactor was studied with varying levels of hydrogen peroxide oxidant. The decolorisation of each dye was measured by absorbance spectrophotometry and quantitatively determined from calibration graphs for each of the three dyes. At the lowest excess oxidant concentration (zero excess), the extent of chromogen destruction was nominally lower for the red dye than for the blue and black dyes.
Effect of the bio‐salt trisodium citrate in the dyeing of cotton
Authors: Prabu H.G. , Sundrarajan* M.
Published: June 2006

Sodium chloride and trisodium citrate have been studied as exhausting agents for dyeing bleached cotton fabrics with reactive, direct and solubilised vat dyes. The effect of dye concentration, exhausting agent concentration, dyeing time and temperature were studied and the resulting shades obtained by dyeing with trisodium citrate and sodium chloride were compared. Dye uptake values were estimated and found to be higher for trisodium citrate than for sodium chloride. The total dissolved solids content of the spent liquors was lower with trisodium citrate than with sodium chloride.
Evaluation of daylight simulators. Part 1; Colorimetric and spectral variations
Authors: Xu H , Luo M R , Rigg B
Published: June 2006

This paper describes the development of daylight simulators and various standards for specifying the quality of daylight simulators. The spectral power distributions of 15 D65 simulators and 58 D50 simulators were accumulated from UK and USA industrial laboratories, respectively. The lamp variations between the investigated simulators were examined in terms of colorimetric values and spectral results for different lamp types and manufacturers. The colorimetric results include luminance, chromaticity coordinates, chromaticity deviation relative to the CIE daylight illuminant, correlated colour temperature, colour rendering index and metamerism index for the visible range. The spectral results were calculated in terms of relative spectral power distributions and spread of relative power at each reported wavelength. Spectral analysis was conducted for the D65 and D50 broad‐band fluorescent lamps. The quality of these investigated simulators was evaluated based on the relevant CIE recommendation and ISO standards.
Towards a universal dye class for printing on multiple substrates
Authors: Hinks D , Rashad M , El‐Shafei A
Published: June 2006

Textile printing using dyes requires different dye classes to be used for different substrates, which increases complexity in the printing operation. The development of a single (universal) class of dyes that can be applied to all fibres to produce prints with excellent technical properties is desirable. Reported is one approach to a universal dye class for printing on multiple substrates. A temporarily water soluble fibre‐reactive dye, 2‐[(4‐{(E)‐[4‐(diethylamino)phenyl]diazenyl}phenyl)sulphonyl]ethyl sodium sulphate, was synthesised and printed on cotton, polyester, polyester/cotton blend, wool, nylon and acrylic fabrics. A print–dry–cure process was employed. Bright, level prints with high colour strength, good rub fastness and fair to good wash fastness were obtained for all substrates except acrylic, which did not produce good prints. However, significant amounts of unfixed dye were removed during soaping.
Solubilisation of dyes by surfactant micelles. Part 2; Molecular interactions of azo dyes with cationic and zwitterionic surfactants
Authors: Oakes John , Gratton Peter
Published: June 2006

A UV–vis spectroscopic investigation has been made of the interactions of a specially synthesised series of o‐ and p‐substituted, model arylazonaphthol dyes with the cationic and zwitterionic surfactants above and below their critical micelle concentrations at pH 10. Spectra of dyes incorporated in micelles of zwitterionic surfactant or cationic surfactant at pHs < 8 are similar to those found in nonionic micelles, i.e. dye substituents control its location similarly for all the micelle types. However, the common anion is selectively favoured in cationic micelle solutions at pH 10, due to electrostatic interactions within the micellar surface. Introduction of polar groups at either end of the molecule confines the dyes to the surface of either zwitterionic or cationic micelles and are characterised by atypical pKA shifts. Electrostatic complexes between dyes and cationic or zwitterionic surfactants were formed in sub‐micellar regions, those with cationic surfactant being sparingly soluble.
The effect of various anti‐setting systems in wool dyeing. Part 3; Sodium thiocyanate based systems
Authors: Kim J , Lewis D M
Published: June 2006

Wool fabrics undergo setting during dyeing. The degree of set can be controlled by careful selection of dyebath conditions and also by the addition to the dyebath of chemicals termed anti‐setting agents. The anti‐setting effect of sodium thiocyanate has been evaluated according to its concentration in the dyebath and the dyebath pH. The fabric crease‐angle method was adopted to estimate the degree of anti‐setting. In the case of wool fabric boiled in the presence of sodium thiocyanate, good anti‐setting effects resulted from the pH 3 and pH 5 treatment baths. Chemical changes in the wool were detected using FTIR analysis.
Photoegradation of indigo in dichloromethane solution
Authors: Novotná P , Boon J J , van der Horst J , Pacáková V
Published: June 2006

The photodegradation of indigo has been studied with emphasis on the degradation products. Ultraviolet–visible spectrometry, high performance liquid chromatography and direct temperature‐resolved mass spectrometry were employed for the characterisation of aged samples. Indigo, isatin, isatoic anhydride, anthranilic acid and indirubin were detected, together with other unidentified compounds. A new degradation product, tryptanthrin, was identified by both high performance liquid chromatography and mass spectrometry techniques, and two other possible degradation products have also been suggested. The degradation of synthetic and natural indigo has been compared and an explanation for the higher rate of degradation of natural indigo proposed.