bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Relative Affinities of the Anions of Strong Acids for Wool Protein
Authors: Steinhardt Jacinto , Fugitt Charles H. , Harris Milton
Published: March 2008

The fastness of wool dyes to washing varies widely not only among different classes of dyes but even among members of a given class. These variations are manifestations of the differences in affinities of the dyestuffs for the fibers. A possible basis for understanding such differences in affinities was described in two earlier papers in which it was shown that wool immersed in hydro chloric acid solutions combines not only with hydrogen ions but with chloride ions as well. As a consequence of this, it appeared that the affinities for wool of the anions of different acids might vary considerably and that therefore the positions of the titration curves with respect to the pH axis might vary by correspondingly large amounts, according to the acid used. The determination of the titration curve of wool with a gvien acid could then be used to measure the affinity of the anion of the acid for the fiber.

Measurements have therefore been made by Research Associates of the Textile Foundation at the National Bureau of Standards of the combination of wool with nineteen different acids, including, in addition to some of the common mineral acids, several of the simpler aromatic sulfonic, carboxylic, and phenolic acids and a soluble mono-azo acid dye. Wide differences were found between the positions of the resulting nineteen titration curves. A gen eralized form of the equations previously developed to account for the effect of the concentration of chloride ion on the amounts of hydrochloric acid combined was utilized to calculate the affinity for wool of each of seventeen anions involved. Predictions, based on the equations, as to the effects of variations of anion concentrations and of temperature were tested and confirmed.

Measurements of the combination of a number of the same acids with a soluble protein, crystalline egg albumin, were also made. Since qualitatively similar differences in the corresponding titration curves were found with both proteins, it is concluded that the property of combining with anions is not restricted to insoluble proteins, such as wool, but is an inherent property of proteins in general. The affinity of the anions appears to increase with their dimensions, and is higher in aromatic than in aliphatic ions of the same size. These relationships are used as the basis of a consid eration of the nature of the forces involved in the binding by pro teins of anions, including the anions of acid dyes.
Electrophoretic Studies of Nylon
Authors: Harris Milton , Sookne Arnold M.
Published: March 2008

The surface electrical properties of "unoriented" and of highly "oriented" nylon fibers were investigated by a microelec trophoretic technique. Both types of fibers exhibited definite re versals of charge but at different pH values; the unoriented fiber at pH 3.9 and the oriented at pH 2.7. Since nylon consists of hydrocarbon chains linked together by amide groups, it appears that reversal of charge is principally dependent on the presence of the amide groups, especially since hydrocarbons do not exhibit reversal of sign of charge under comparable conditions. This sug gests that amide groups may also influence the electrophoretic be havior of other substances, such as proteins. The difference in the electrophoretic behavior of the two types of nylon is attributed to the difference in their degrees of "crystallinity."
Surface Characteristics of Cotton Fibers as Indicatcd by Electro phoretic Studies
Authors: Sookne Arnold M. , Harris Milton
Published: March 2008

Natural cotton is composed of a primary and a secondary wall. The former forms a thin sheath on the surface of the fiber and is composed principally of small amounts of cellulose imbedded in a membrane of wax and pectic substance. The latter is composed principally of cellulose and forms the main body of the fiber. The pectic substance, although present to the extent of only approxi mately 1 percent, accounts for 85 percent of the total acidic groups of the mature fiber. The highly acidic nature and the location of this substance in the naturally-occurring fibers would be expected to influence greatly a number of the properties of the fibers, espe cially those dependent on surface characteristics. These surface characteristics are of considerable importance in a number of in dustrial processes such as, for example, the scouring, dyeing, and finishing of textile materials.

Since the electrophoretic technique has been shown by research associates for the Textile Foundation at the National Bureau of Standards to be a useful tool for characterizing other fiber surfaces, it appeared advisable to apply it to an investigation of the cotton fiber as well. Samples of dewaxed cotton, cotton which had been depectinized by treatment with a boiling 1-percent solution of so dium hydroxide for various lengths of time, and pectic substance from cotton gave widely different pH-mobility curves. The curve for pectic substance is characteristic of a highly acidic substance whereas that of depectinized cotton shows a low order of acidity. The curve for dewaxed cotton appears to be a composite of the curves for cellulose and pectic substance.

The purified cellulose exhibits a reversal of charge below pH 2.5, and accordingly is isoelectric at that pH. It is shown that the reversal of charge has not resulted from irreversible changes pro duced in the fiber during immersion in the dilute solutions of acid used in the present investigation.
Microscopic Structure of the Wool Fiber
Authors: Hock Charles W. , Ramsay Robert C. , Harris Milton
Published: March 2008

An investigation was undertaken to obtain information con cerning the fine details of structure of wool fibers and especially of their constituent scale and cortical cells. Treatment of chemi cally modified wool with the enzyme, pepsin, was found to be an excellent method for releasing individual cells for such studies.

It is shown by microdissection that the striated appearance of the cortical cells is due to the presence of many fibrils which can be separated with microneedles. Near the center of each cell is a nucleus which has a granular structure. Between crossed nicols, the fibrillar part of the cortical cells appears birefringent, whereas the nucleus does not.

The scales show little internal organization such as exhibited by the cortical cells. When examined with crossed nicols they appear nonbirefringent. Unlike the cells of the cortex, the scales are not easily separated by treatment with enzymes, but remain attached to each other in a manner comparable to the arrangement of shingles on a roof.

A comparison of root and shaft of the fiber reveals numerous differences in reaction to microchemical color tests, as well as differences in cellular structure. The root, for example, gives a positive test for sulfhydryl groups whereas the shaft gives a nega tive test. Similarly, the shaft appears birefringent whereas the root does not. These and other observations clearly indicate that as the cells of the root emerge into the shaft a number of physical and chemical changes take place simultaneously.

When wool is placed in chlorine water bubbles arise on the surface of the fibers (Allwörden reaction). Evidence is presented in support of the viewpoint that these bubbles arise solely from the scales and that their formation is associated with the reaction of the chlorine with disulfide groups of the cystine in the scales.
Oxidation of Wool Keratin by Potassium Permanganate
Authors: Barr Mildred , Edgar Rachel
Published: March 2008

The degradation of wool by fifty volumes of 0.0100 to 0.0400 M potassium permanganate, by fifty volumes of 0.0100 to 0.0600 M potassium permanganate, 0.1800 N as to sulfuric acid, and by 62.5, 75.0, 87.5, and 100 volumes of 0.0200 M potassium perman ganate, both aqueous and acidic, in ten hours at 40 ± 0.1° C. has been measured by the weight, nitrogen, total sulfur, sulfate sulfur, and wet strength of the residual wool.

Percentage losses in weight, nitrogen, and non-sulfate sulfur have been shown very similar in fifty-volume baths of either aqueous or acidic permanganate in the same molarity.

With increasing volume of 0.0200 M potassium permanganate, loss of nitrogen by wool has been shown greater in acidic than in aqueous solutions.

In no case did the wool's sulfate sulfur increase although part of its original sulfate sulfur dissolved in acid permanganate.

Wet strength of wool has been shown to decrease more rapidly than weight, nitrogen, or non-sulfate sulfur with increasing mo larity or volume of permanganate and more rapidly in aqueous than in acidic permanganate.
A Comparison of Five Methods of Measuring Fineness of Cotton Fibers
Authors: Grimes Mary Anna
Published: March 2008

A comparison is made of five methods of determining the fine ness of the fibres of each of five cottons. The methods used are weight per inch; area of cross sections; and widths of fibres col lapsed, flooded with sodium hydroxide, and mercerized without tension. Identical fibres were used where methods permitted.

It is concluded that small differences may not be determined with certainty but that wide differences in fineness may be de tected by any of these methods. It is suggested that the choice of method be made after deciding whether the area the fibre oc cupies or the quantity of material in the fibre is the information desired.
Increased Card Speeds
Authors: Dunlap George H.
Published: March 2008

Results of increasing cylinder speed of cotton cards equipped with regular wire clothing were reported in the April, 1942, issue of TEXTILE RESEARCH. Following is a supplementary report covering results in a mill having cards equipped with metallic clothing. These tests com prise part of the practical research which is being carried out by the Southern Textile Association and the Ark wrights under sponsorship of the Textile Foundation, Professor Dunlap is research supervisor.
Acid Dyeing of Wool
Authors: Steinhardt Jacinto , Fugitt Charles H. , Harris Milton
Published: March 2008

The nature of the attraction of dyes for textile fibers, how the dyes go on, and what makes them stick so that they resist washing should be explained by any theory of dye ing. Such a theory must also be capable of predicting the effect on the transfer of the dye from bath to fibers of such factors as the amounts of each acid, dye, and salt present in a complicated solution—the dyebath. Earlier papers by Research Associates of The Textile Founda tion, demonstrated that different strong acids including acid dyes combine with wool to very different extents. This new paper describes experiments that contribute to a better understanding of the more complex equilibria which obtain in more complicated baths.
Modern Textile Technology
Authors: Schwarz E.R.
Published: March 2008

This is the second article in a series by Dr. Schwarz. The first article appeared in TEXTILE RESEARCH, Dec. 1942. Other articles will discuss in detail some of the general aspects raised in the first two articles of the series. The application of polarized light, electron mi croscope, creep and creep recovery, will be among the subjects considered (Editor).
Army Service Forces
Authors: Steadman Frank M.
Published: March 2008

Evolution of our present system of meeting military re quirements in clothing and supplies for the Army, and the organization of the Army Service Forces, were de scribed by Lt. Col. Frank M. Steadman in an address delivered before the American Association of Textile Chemists & Colorists, April 16, in New York. An abridgement of Lt. Col. Steadman's remarks follows:
Research and the Patent System
Authors: Wickliffe Rose H.
Published: March 2008

To stimulate research and development was the primary purpose for which the patent law was enacted. That there have been abuses of the system is admitted, but as a prelude to intelligent correction of existing faults there should be more widespread knowledge of the facts as re vealed by actual practice.

In this series of articles by Mr. Rose, Part I.1 dealt with the system in its relationship with the individual in ventor. Part II., which is presented herewith, discusses the experience of corporations in the use of patents. Al though the cases cited are taken from the rayon industry an analogy may be drawn which will apply to other branches of the textile industry. Part III., which con cludes "Research and the Patent System," will discuss the commercialization of patents and will appear in the September issue of TEXTILE RESEARCH.
Infra-Red Drying of Textiles
Authors: Grapnel Stefan L.
Published: March 2008

Results of an investigation of infra-red drying of textiles are embodied in a thesis presented by the author in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Bachelor of Mechanical Engineering at the Polytechnic Institute of Brooklyn. The author of the thesis con cludes that the present infra-red ray gas generators de pend for their drying properties mostly on convected heat. However, these generators provide a compact and useful method of drying, which has definite merit when judiciously applied. Test results, including an abstract of methods and description of apparatus employed, are given below. The critical review of literature and bibli ography of the subject are contained in a separate mime ographed report being issued currently to members of Textile Research Institute, Inc.
The Future of the Corporation
Authors: Rose H. Wickliffe
Published: March 2008

The following concludes a series of related articles by Mr. Rose. The first, "Inter-Research," appeared in the June issue of TEXTILE RESEARCH; the second, "Research and the Patent System," appeared in three parts, in the July, August, and September issues. Reprints of this series bound together in a pamphlet titled "Planning Corporate Research and Development," will shortly be available. Copies may be had without charge by addressing either H. Wickliffe Rose, American Viscose Corporation, Wil mington, Delaware, or from TEXTILE RESEARCH, 10 East 40th St., New York 16, N. Y.
Vibration in Textile Testing Devices 1
Authors: Vose R.W.
Published: March 2008

As part of a critical review of all testing and measuring equipment in the Cotton Laboratory of the Chicopee Manufacturing Corp., two testing de vices, the Saco-Lowell Sliver Tester and the Belger Roving Tester, were rebuilt to run at increased speed, and the be havior of a Tensile Tester was investi gated. Increasing the speed of the machines required the reduction of in ertia, the substitution of springs for dead weights, and other alterations to reduce vibration. The investigation of the Tensile Tester shows that this ma chine has inherent characteristics which render it unsatisfactory for use on new materials of high elasticity or others with unusual properties.

The speeds of both the sliver tester and the roving tester have been in creased by a factor of approximately seven.
N. C. State College Textile School
Authors: Campbell Malcolm E.
Published: March 2008

A new perspective on the relationship of the textile school to industry is re flected in the expanded programs of some of our textile schools. In TEXTILE RESEARCH for February the objectives of the Philadelphia Textile Institute were outlined. The following article from a recent address by Dean Camp bell before the Piedmont Section, American Association of Textile Chem ists and Colorists, describes the pro gram at North Carolina State College. We hope to supply in these columns, in formation on the plans of other schools as they are developed.
Control of Continuous Processes
Authors: Fischer Earl K.
Published: March 2008

Experiments designed to determine the variables which affect the ab sorption and retention of Hevea latex in fibrous batting revealed that the following are of para mount importance: (a) total non volatile content of the bath; (b) wetting time and its control through the addition of surface-ac tive agents; and (c) squeeze-roll pressure. Although the use of Hevea latex for treating batting is not a common textile-mill process, it is believed that the following resumé of the experiments will be of interest to all textile men con cerned with the control of continu ous operations in which a web of material is immersed in a saturat ing bath, subjected to pressure be tween rolls, and dried.
An Industrial Research Department
Authors: Chambers D.E.
Published: March 2008

Of value alike to large and small or ganizations and to all engaged in the conduct of research, the following ar ticle by the assistant director of one of the nation's greatest industrial organi zations merits wide attention and study. This paper was presented at a round table conference on "The Role of Technical Research on Product Development," which was held in con junction with the 262nd regular meet ing of the National Industrial Confer ence Board at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, New York, N. Y., September 21, 1944.
Photomicrography of Textiles for Legal Purposes
Authors: Gurley Martin H.
Published: March 2008

In the following article there is dem onstrated clearly the principle of the use of "activating" or cementing fib ers in a yarn which is woven into the bonding layer of a, sandwich of fabrics in the construction of a fused collar.
I. Effect of Stretch in Slashing
Authors: Shinn W.E. , Biggers Paul T.
Published: March 2008

Research on warp sizing was conducted by the Textile Research Institute over a period of several years, the earlier research on the warp sizing of filament rayon having been reported in TEXTILE RESEARCH (see references at the end of this paper). That part of the program covering the period from October, 1940, through November, 1942, has not been published previously. This was in accordance with the agree ment between the Institute and the sponsors of the project. The papers in this issue and those to follow in early issues of TEXTILE RESEARCH deal with warp sizing of staple rayon and include some of the results of this part of the program which have been thought to be of greatest interest. A summary of this project and of the fur ther study recently completed has been prepared and preparations are being made for publication at an early date.
Sizing of Spun Viscose Warp Yarns
Authors: Shinn W.E. , Biggers Paul T.
Published: March 2008

One of the projects in the program of research on the subject of warp sizing which was organized and administered by Textile Research Institute, Inc., com prised a study of the sizing of warp yarns constructed from spun viscose rayon. The papers in the series now being presented in this journal cover certain parts of a project carried out during the period from October, 1940, through No vember, 1942. In accordance with an agreement between the Institute and the sponsors of the project these papers have not been published previously. Part I— "Effect of Stretch in Slashing," and Part II—"Abrasion Testing of Sized Warp Yarns," appeared in the January issue of this year. Parts III and IV in this issue cover Confidential Reports Nos. 7 and 8 respectively. Part V—"Application of Corn Starch Ether Gum and Its Removal from Fabric," will conclude the series and is scheduled for the March issue. A comprehensive summary of this project, including the recently concluded project, has been prepared and will be published at an early date as an Institute report.
Swelling of Fibers as a Method for Morphological Research
Authors: Roberts Bruno R.
Published: March 2008

The application of cinemicrography to the dark-field ultramicroscopy of tex tile fibers permits repeated and close observation of the rapidly changing movements of colloidal inclusions energized by suitable swelling agents. Through this tech nique the permeable membranes of starch particles and natural fibers are made visible. The effects of osmotic pressure, such as the instantaneous eruption of col loidal masses from the ruptured envelope of starch grains and cotton fibers, have been recorded by the motion picture camera and thus made available for careful study.

The inhomogeneity of wool scales and their capsule-like structure are recorded. The movement of colloidal particles within and through the outer walls of the swol len cotton fiber has been photographed and it can be analyzed at leisure by project ing the film.

The fact that some of the material in this article has previously appeared in Kolloid Zeitschrift 64, 257 (1933), and Der Papier-Fabrikant 32, 61 (1934), empha sizes its value, and for this reason it is now being presented in its present form in this journal.-Editor.
Mechanics of Abrasion of Textile Materials
Authors: Hamburger Walter J.
Published: March 2008

A method is described for predicting the inherent abrasion resistance of textile materials substantively by the use of load-elongation diagrams of mechanically conditioned specimens. Immediate and delayed deflections are discussed as they affect energy coefficient E. This coefficient is shown to be a function of: ( 1) low modulus of elasticity; (2) large immediate elastic deflection; (3) high ratio of primary to secondary creep; ( 4) high magnitude of pri mary creep; and (5) high rate of primary creep.

Nylon shrunk, nylon unshrunk, acetate, and viscose yarns are evaluated on the Taber Abraser, and from rate-of-destruction curves durability coefficients D are obtained. Corre lation is shown to exist between durability coefficients and energy coefficients for the four yarns.
The Electric Strain Gage and Its Use in Textile Measurements
Authors: Hindman Harold , Krook Cyril M.
Published: March 2008

The general principles of the bonded metalectric strain gage are given, and some specific applications to certain general problems are discussed. The variables in the measuring system are considered, the importance of each is shown, and the choice of the proper units for solving a given type of problem is indicated. Formulas are given as references for any design work the reader might wish to undertake, and derivations not already in the literature are presented. Some data concerning various instruments are reported as an indication of the results which can be achieved and to point out certain important differences which result from this type of measurement, as opposed to data obtained on conventional equipment.
Design of Devices Used in the Study of Stress-Strain-Time Properties
Authors: Morey D.R.
Published: March 2008

It is shown that a number of stress-strain devices control the rate of increase of the total load applied to the specimen, but that none takes account of the diminishing cross section as extension proceeds. It is shown how this may be done, thus providing a constant rate of stress increase, by means of a cam which introduces a variable lever arm through which the load is applied.

In the case of extension-versus-time curves, it is important to run the experiment at constant stress rather than at constant total load. A simple means of loading a specimen to accomplish this is described.
Problems for Future Quartermaster Textile Research
Authors: Kennedy Stephen J.
Published: March 2008

Many facts, hitherto unpublished, with respect to the textile research program initiated in 1942 by the Research and Development Branch of the Office of The Quartermaster General are high lighted in this paper by Lt. Colonel Stephen J. Kennedy. Problems which have pressed for solu tion, the manner in which these problems were attacked, and the noteworthy accomplishments are briefly outlined. Nine areas of research which must occupy the attention of industry as well as of the military services are described.

This paper deserves the careful attention of all textile men. It was read by Colonel Kennedy, Chairman of the Conference on Quartermaster Research held at the National Academy of Sci ences, in Washington, D. C., October 25, 1945. Other papers given at the conference were: "Importance of Quartermaster Research in Winning the War," by Lieutenant General Edmund B. Gregory; " Washable Woolens for the Army," by Captain Henry F. Clapham; "The Use of Army Service Testing Techniques in the Development and Interpretation of Laboratory Textile Tests," by Oliver P. Beckwith; " Tropical Deterioration of Textile Products," by Dr. William H. Weston; "Synthetic Fabrics in the Quartermaster War Program," by Chandler Robbins, II; "Increasing the Wear Life of Army Textiles Through Research," by Captain Stanley Backer; and " The Program of the Quartermaster Corps for Future Research," by Brigadier General Georges F. Doriot; and "Comments on the Program of Research," by Dr. Harold DeWitt Smith.

The above papers are included in a complete report, with illustrations, which is being pub lished under the sponsorship of the Intersociety Council for Textile Research. Copies may be had at $1.00 each by writing Textile Research Institute, Inc., 10 East 40th Street, New York 16, New York.
Cellulose Studies
Authors: Pacsu Eugene
Published: March 2008

The various modifications of the aldehyde group determination by alkaline iodine solution were found to be unreliable for the aldehyde type of oxycellulose. The failure of the method is chiefly attributed to the instability of the oxidizing reagent, to certain prototropic and anionotropic conversions suffered by the oxycellulose in alkaline media, and to an iodoform-producing side-reaction of non-oxidative nature.
Devices for Producing Artificial Rainfall for Tests of Water-Repellent and Waterproof Materials
Authors: Landsberg M.I. , Moody F.J.
Published: March 2008

This article is one of a series of technical papers dealing with the principal phases of the research, development, and production problems of the Army's water-repellent clothing. These publications will appear in early issues of various journals in the fields of textiles and garments, and will emanate from the laboratories and organiza tions participating in the Quartermaster Corps research and development program.
Statistical Methods for Equilibrium Moisture Correlations
Authors: McCarthy P.J. , Toner R.K. , Whitwell J.C.
Published: March 2008

In the first paper of this series § there was presented a method for the treatment of equilibrium moisture data for textile fibers. Results of extensive statistical calculations were reported and analyzed. This paper presents the details of the methods which were used in arriving at those correlations.

Of major interest is a means of calculating the best point of intersection of a series of lines and of evaluating the probability of the existence of such a common point on all lines. When it is suspected that the lines are parallel, the test of probability must be adapted to this eventuality.

In general, the probabilities are estimated by analysis of variance. In this calculation, the individual lines are fitted to the experimental points by the method of least squares. They are then again fitted to the points with the additional condition of intersection or parallelism, which ever is thought to be more likely. The additional variance imposed by the added condition is then compared to that of the deviations from the simple individual least-squares lines and evaluated for probability by Snedecor ratios.

Illustrative graphical material based on the Wiegerink data for degummed silk in positive sorption from dry condition to equilibrium state is presented to show the various procedures.
Mechanical Properties of Textiles, VIII
Authors: Eyring Henry , Halsey George
Published: March 2008

In this paper the spring-dashpot theory which has been applied in previous papers in this series to single fibers and to yarns is applied here to the experimental investi gations of a plush fabric which have been published by Fox and Schwarz. This serves to outline the experimental methods which should be followed if the data are to have maximum theoretical significance.
Wear-Resistance of Apparel Textiles, I
Authors: Kaswell Ernest R.
Published: March 2008

Portion of a research program on the Wear Resistance of Apparel Textiles, sponsored by the Office of The Quartermaster General and the National Research Council, and conducted by the Textile Division of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, and the Fabric Research Laboratories, Inc., Boston, Massachusetts.

Part II, "Laboratory Evaluation of Military Fabrics and Correlation with Com bat Course Tests," will appear in a later issue.
Color Measurements of Standards for Grades of Cotton
Authors: Nickerson Dorothy
Published: March 2008

Measurements of the color of standards for grades of cotton, which were made in the United States Department of Agriculture, are shown in a series of diagrams. These illustrate the relation of the grades to each other in color, how the color may change during a period of years, and color measurements of the original standards, copies of them, and of the standards adopted in 1946 to become effective August 1, 1947.
Constitutional Factors in the Production of Artificial Protein Fiber
Authors: Hoover Sam R. , Kokes Elsie L. , Peterson Robert F.
Published: March 2008

Recent developments in the chemistry of artificial protein fiber are reviewed, with emphasis on the differences in amino acid content of the various proteins. New experimental results of thermoelastic analysis of protein fibers and determinations of peptide chain length in proteins by end-group analysis are presented.
Relation of Specific Strength of Cotton Fibers to Fiber Length and Testing Method
Authors: Grant James N. , Morlier Ora W.
Published: March 2008

Four cottons in commercial production, covering a range of such physical properties as strength, length, and fineness, were studied in a comparison of two methods of determining fiber strength—the individual fiber test and the Pressley flat-bundle test.

Because of the combing action in bundle preparation, cotton fibers broken in the flat-bundle test represent the longer fibers found in a sample of cotton. These remaining fibers are not representative of the length of the original sample; and since fiber specific strength increases with fiber length, neither are they representative of the strength of the original sample. This increase in specific strength with increase in length is evident whether fibers are broken indi vidually or in aggregates.

The relationship between the logarithm of individual fiber tensile strength and the logarithm of the specimen length used is inversely linear. The flat-bundle test represents the strength of fibers whose specimen lengths were deduced to be between 1/16 and 3/32 inch.
Dyeing Studies at Elevated Temperatures
Authors: Royer G.L. , Zimmerman C.L. , Walter H.J. , Robinson R.D.
Published: March 2008

An apparatus has been built for dyeing textiles in the temperature range of 200°F to 300°F and fundamental dyeing data have been obtained using a wide variety of textile fibers. The high- temperature technique is particularly applicable in the dyeing of those fibers which require a long time for the diffusion of the dye into the individual fibers when it is applied under normal dyeing conditions. The high-temperature technique increases the speed of dyeing to such an extent that dyeings which normally require hours can be produced in a matter of seconds. Commercially acceptable dyeings have been made on wool and wool-cotton unions in less than 90 seconds at 270°F. In general, it can be stated that because of the short periods of contact at these high temperatures the same extent of dyeing can be obtained without any greater change in the tensile characteristics than is obtained when an equivalent dyeing is carried out for a longer time at lower temperatures.

The amount of thermal decomposition of a large number of dyes was determined, and a number which are suitable for high-temperature dyeing have been selected.

A method for the application of dyes by padding and then developing at elevated tempera tures has been worked out; this method, owing to the increased speed of dyeing, makes it prac tical to dye continuously at a rapid rate many fabrics which previously have not been dyed by a continuous process.
The Modification of Cellulose by Reaction with Formaldehyde
Authors: Gruntfest I.J. , Gagliardi D.D.
Published: March 2008

Experiments relating to the chemistry of the technologically important cellulose-formalde hyde reaction are described. While for many reasons definitive statements about the reaction cannot now be given, certain of its gross features are revealed.

As the formalization process is usually carried out, the reaction with cellulose is com petitive with the evaporation of the formaldehyde. At low temperatures (to 30°C) no reaction takes place. At higher temperatures (150°C) reaction takes place over a wide range of con ditions of acidity. The product formed at high acidity is stable to hydrolysis and is charac terized by reduced swelling, increased elastic modulus, and resistance to creep. At lower acidities and under alkaline conditions, the properties of the product are much more like those of the starting material and the formaldehyde is easily removed by washing in neutral aqueous solutions.

The combining weight of formaldehyde with cellulose varies, among other things, with the concentration of the formaldehyde applied. The lower the concentration the more nearly the combining weight approaches 12, which corresponds to the formation of simple methylene ethers with the cellulose. At higher concentrations, the combining weight increases toward a value of 30, indicating the formation of polyoxymethylene ether linkages.
The Relationship Between the Structural Geometry of a Textile Fabric and Its Physical Properties
Authors: Backer Stanley
Published: March 2008

This is the first in a series of papers to be issued by the Quartermaster Corps discussing the importance of fabric geometry in the development of more utilitarian and serviceable textile materials. It is a literature review which shows the relationship between the structural char acteristics of fabrics and various functional characteristics, such as breaking strength and elongation, tear-resistance, thermal insulation, abrasion-resistance, and gas permeability.
Mechanics of Elastic Performance of Textile Materials
Authors: Hamburger Walter J.
Published: March 2008

A technique is developed for the quantitative evaluation of the deformation components of visco-elastic materials when these are subjected to tensile loading, for loads ranging from zero to rupture, under dynamic loading conditions, at constant rates of load, elongation, or strain for different magnitudes of constant rates of load, elongation, and strain. The technique serves not only to determine the mechanism of elastic performance of materials but also to quantitatively evaluate their performance characteristics as engineering materials.

A sensitive and responsive instrument for the determination of the dynamic modulus of elasticity of materials under any and all loading conditions, such as those enumerated above, has been developed and is described.

The effects of the visco-elastic behavior of high polymers upon their stress-strain relation ships are investigated and discussed.
Moisture Determination in Textiles by Electrical Meters: Part II
Authors: Toner Richard K. , Bowen Carol F. , Whitwell John C.
Published: March 2008

This is the second paper in this series reporting experiments on representative moisture meters. It discusses the effect on their calibration of temperature, heating history, wool type and dye, and presents basic types of curves for cotton sliver and acetate staple. All variables affect the calibration sufficiently to require separate curves for each new condition if high precision is to be maintained.
The Interaction of Various Organic Liquids with Cellulose Acetate Fibers as Detected by Specific-Gravity Measurements
Authors: Fortess Fred
Published: March 2008

The pycnometer liquid displacement method of determining the specific gravity of solids has been applied to the study of the rate and the extent of penetration of a large variety of pure liquids into cellulose acetate yarn. Various members of the homologous series of aromatic and aliphatic alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, esters, halogens, nitriles, phthalate esters, nitro- compounds, and hydrocarbons were used. The maximum apparent specific gravities obtained for a Celanese yarn were found to be a function of the polar groups on the molecules of the liquid medium, as well as of their size and shape. These values range from 1.306 at 20° C with carbon tetrachloride to 1.415 with n-heptaldehyde.

A hydrogen-bonding mechanism is suggested to explain the manner by which the liquid- medium molecules penetrate and solvate the yarn.

Several applications of this technique and the resultant data are indicated.
Dynamic Properties of Filaments, Yarns, and Cords at Sonic Frequencies
Authors: Lyons W. James
Published: March 2008

A brief description of the stretch-vibrometer developed at the Firestone Research Laboratories is given, and the theory of its operation is outlined. Described are new measurements made on the instrument verifying the previous conclusion that loss of energy to the apparatus is immeasur ably small. Values of the dynamic stretch moduli E, coefficients of internal friction μ, and hyster etic energy losses of 15 samples of natural and synthetic textile materials, Fiberglas, and steel wire are given. Corresponding static values of moduli and energy losses are also given. The latter, it is shown, do not correlate with dynamic values, and hence cannot be regarded as predictive of dynamic behavior. The resonant frequencies at which measurements were made on these samples ranged from 65 to 360 cycles per second.

The significance of the various measures which have been employed with the present data to express hysteretic losses is discussed, and it is shown that the quantity μω 0/E, while not rigidly constant, is confined to a narrow range of values in most samples. Further evidence is submitted generalizing the near-hyperbolic relationship between μ and ωo. Results of application of the method to the comparison of various tire-cord rayons are given. Measured on the stretch-vibrom eter have been dynamic moduli ranging from 2.1 × 10 10 (rubber thread) to 226 × 1010 (steel wire) dynes/cm.2, and internal-friction coefficients from 0.74 × 106 (rubber thread) to 25.7 × 106 (silk thread) poises.
An Experimental and Theoretical Study of the Adsorption and Swelling Isotherms of Human Hair in Water Vapor
Authors: White Howard J. , Stam Paul B.
Published: March 2008

Quantitative data on the length and diameter changes accompanying the adsorption of water by human hair are given as functions of the relative humidity. Data are also given on the effects of a load on the swelling isotherms. A theoretical treatment is proposed which accounts in a semi-quantitative way for the swelling isotherms and the effects of tension as well as for the adsorption isotherm.
Improved Single-Unit Schiefer Abrasion Testing Machine
Authors: Schiefer Herbert F. , Crean Lawrence E. , Krasny John F.
Published: March 2008

An improved single-unit Schiefer abrasion testing machine was developed. It can be adapted for testing a great variety of materials under a wide range of test conditions. Different types of specimen holders and abradants can be used with the machine. Both the pressure and the tension on the specimen can be fixed at selected values and maintained constant throughout the test period. A variety of materials, including woven, knitted, and coated fabrics, plastics, paper, leather, and other materials, were abraded with the machine. The abrasive wear of each material was found to be extremely uniform over the abraded area. The effect of the amount of plasticizer on the resistance to abrasion of plastics was readily measured. The rate of abra sion was directly proportional to the amount of plasticizer present. The abrasive wear in tests of woven fabrics appeared very similar to that which occurred in service. A quantitative method based upon the change in electrical capacitance of the specimen with abrasion was de scribed for evaluating the amount of abrasion. A quantity which is a measure of abrasive destruction or ruin was defined. This quantity was used to obtain an iso-ruin map of a large area of a trouser leg. This iso-ruin map showed very clearly a number of areas at which ex cessive wear in service had occurred. The change of the abradant during abrasion tests is discussed. Carborundum paper, a generally used abradant, decreased very greatly in abrasive power. The spring steel blade abradant remained essentially constant, although in testing one resin-finished fabric the surfaces of this abradant became coated with the resinous substance, which greatly increased its abrasive power.
The Fungi Concerned in Fiber Deterioration
Authors: Marsh P.B. , Bollenbacher K.
Published: March 2008

A review of the literature and certain new findings are presented which relate to the types of fungi which occur on cellulosic textile fibers under various practical exposure conditions.

Numerous observations, some original and others assem bled from the literature, indicate that the following fungi are commonly found growing on fibers in particular types of situations : Alternaria, Cladosporium herbarum, and Fusarium (especially F. moniliforme) on cotton which has undergone weathering in the field before harvest; Alternaria and Cladosporium herbarum on cotton fabric in relatively short- term moderate- or high-light weather exposures, with Phoma and related forms, Leptosphaeria and related forms, and Pullularia pullulans appearing after longer periods under the same conditions; Alternaria, Cladosporium herbarum, Pul lularia pullulans, and, under some conditions, Fusarium on dew-retting flax and hemp; species of Aspergillus, Peni cillium, Stachybotrys, Chaetomium, and probably other fungi on cotton and other natural fibers in unprocessed or in textile form in humid storage; Aspergillus fumigatus on jute which has undergone microbiological damage in the bale; Halo phiobolus and certain other unusual salt-water-adapted forms on decaying cordage in marine exposures. Fungi other than the above-named may occur commonly under the conditions mentioned, but if they do this appears not to have been reported frequently or in any detail in the literature. Soil- contact exposures are believed to involve a very wide range of fungus forms, including numerous genera and species which have not been observed to occur commonly in mod erate- or high-light above-ground exposures. Information is presented which indicates that resistance on the part of the fungus to sunlight is an important factor in determining which fungi grow on fibers in different types of exposures. Differences among the fungi in moisture requirements and in temperatures favorable for growth are also important.
A Study of the Bleaching of Blue Cotton Fiber
Authors: Hudson R.E. , Waddle Howard M.
Published: March 2008

The apparent cause and location of the color in blue cotton has been studied. The color which appeared to be located in the lumen was not particularly resistant to conventional scour ing and bleaching agents. The controlling factor in the bleaching of blue cotton appeared to be lack of access to the blue color in the lumen by the treating solution. No ready means of rapid access to the lumen of the whole fiber was found. Diffusion of the blue coloration through the fiber appeared to occur slowly when the fiber was placed in a mildly alkaline bath at elevated temperatures. A bibliography is given.
Understanding Accomplishment
Authors: Schwarz E.R.
Published: March 2008

"Considering the fact that he has been at it for only a few thousand years, man makes rather good textiles. He even is able to make acceptable textile fibers. Com pared to nature, however, he still is an amateur with much to learn. Of course nature has carried on its development over some hundreds of thousands of years, and man cannot wait that long. Fortunately he doesn't have to. He can accomplish in a decade results that would require hundreds of years by empirical methods or thousands of years by processes of evolution and natural selection. This he can do in one way only: by research, intelligent and intensive research vigorously supported and patiently followed up in production.... In our modern tempo that industry is in danger which is in a static state. Research, with its yield of new and better products, is not a luxury; it is a necessity, often as a defense against encroachment from without. The world in which we live is going to change, politically and sociologically, no doubt, but also technically. We have no choice as to whether we will change with it. We simply have a choice as to whether we will change rapidly enough and sanely enough to remain part of the essential scheme of things."—VANNEVAR BUSH
Degree of Polymerization as Evidence of the Damage to Cotton in Mechanical Processing
Authors: Krieble James G. , Whitwell John C.
Published: March 2008

Mechanical processing of cotton causes two types of damage: the first type is physical in nature, resulting from the breaking and bruising of fibers; the second type is chemical in nature, as shown by a decrease in D.P. This change in D.P. is brought about by a mechanical-chemical rupture of molecular bonds and not through a thermal mechanism. A quantitative estimate of the relative damage occurring in each mechanical operation investigated is presented. A loss in D.P of 30 percent was measured as a result of the mechanical operations which converted an Empire seed cotton into yarn.
Urea as a Solvent Aid for Cellulose Textile Sizes
Authors: Tasker Clinton W.
Published: March 2008

Urea was evaluated as a solvent aid for alkali-soluble ethylene oxide ethers of cellulose which are suitable as textile sizes. It was not found to be an economical aid for this purpose, although it apparently reduced solution viscosity. The ratios of caustic to water and cellulose ether to water were shown to be the main factors controlling solution viscosity. Based upon the fact that urea has a very high partial and apparent molal volume in aqueous solutions, it is suggested that urea acts as an inert diluent when incorporated into alkaline solutions of the ethylene oxide ethers. Further, it was shown that urea could bring about either increases or decreases in the viscosity of these ether solutions, depending upon whether urea is added to or replaces water in any given system.
The Fine Structure of Cotton Fibers from Density Measurements
Authors: Wakeham Helmut
Published: March 2008

Research on the apparent densities of cellulose fibers in different liquids gives information concerning inner fiber structure which may be useful in characterizing certain desirable prop erties of cotton fibers. The following report describes an investigation of some factors involved in evaluating density data in terms of fiber structure. The interpretation is made of some experimentally determined densities of cotton and rayon fibers in benzene and in dioctyl phthalate —two liquids differing greatly in molecular dimensions—and in mercury, a nonwetting liquid. In the last case, the "over-all density" of a fiber, defined as the average density of all material within the outer wall of the fiber, is determined by a method utilizing a mercury-pressure volumenometer.

In the case of the wetting liquids, higher densities were obtained with benzene—which has the smaller molecule; this indicates that the fibers have pore spaces which in size approach the dimensions of the molecule. When the cotton fibers are cut into short sections, about 1 mm. long, more of these pores and intrafiber channels are open to the liquid medium; a higher density is, therefore, obtained for the cut fibers than for the whole fibers. Pore-space values within the fiber are calculated and compared with values obtained by other methods. The significance of these observations in the consideration of fiber structure is discussed.