bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Cosmetics and the principle of risk acceptability
Authors: ABBE NORMAN J. VAN
Published: May 2007

Les produits cosmétiques et le principe d'acceptabilité des risques

L'article 2 de la Directive de la C.E.E. 76/768 du 27 Juillet 1976 stipule que les produits cosmétiques mis sur le marchéà l'intérieur de la Communauté ne doivent pas être susceptibles de nuire à la santé humaine lorsqu'ils sont appliqués dans les conditions normales d'utilisation.

II n'est pas possible d'atteindre le niveau de risque zéro, et il faut donc décider d'un risque acceptable pour les produits cosmétiques.

Ce niveau doit être établi après expérimentation sur un échantillon de consommateurs qui peuvent être exposés au risque.

II est courant d'évaluer le poids respectif du risque et du bénéfice résultant de l'utilisation de produits pharmaceutiques. Cette notion ne doit pas étre transposée aux cosmétiques qui doivent être examinés par comparaison à d'autres formes de risques gnéralement reconnus comme acceptables socialement.

Mr. N.J. van Abbe (left) receiving the Silver Medal for his 1979 Medal Lecture from the Society's President, Dr P.J. Wilson (right).
Allergic and toxic reactions caused by cream bases in dermatological patients
Authors: HANNUKSELA MATTI
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Irritant and allergic reactions from cream bases observed in eczema patients are reviewed. The frequency of allergic reactions to the ingredients of vehicles in eczema patients is an indication of allergic potential for normal skin. Against this background, hypoallergenic fragrances are still very difficult to produce and a proper mixture for epicutaneous testing is lacking. Among preservatives, parabens are obviously safer and less allergenic than chlorocresol and sorbic acid.

Propylene glycol (PG) is very popular for its many beneficial properties. However, it is also an irritant and a sensitiser. The exact number of allergic delayed type reactions is difficult to establish because primary irritant epicutaneous test reactions often closely resemble allergic reactions. By doing epicutaneous tests with serial dilutions of PG and by making peroral challenge tests, the number of eczema patients allergic to PG has been estimated to be as high as 1%. Glycerol is much less active in producing toxic and allergic skin reactions.

Common non‐ionic emulsifiers and higher fatty alcohols cause allergic contact dermatitis occasionally. The allergenic properties of these substances have not yet been examined experimentally. It seems, however, that there are only small differences between the various emulsifying agents.

Les allergies et réactions de toxicité causées par les constituants des crèmes sur les sujets atteints de dermatoses
Skin irritancy testing of toiletries and cosmetics on novel human models
Authors: VICKERS C. F. H.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

A brief review of new techniques of assessing skin irritancy is presented. Some of the difficulties of assessing minor degrees of irritancy are discussed.

Nouvelles méthodes pour l'évaluation sur l'être humain du pouvoir irritant des produits cosmetiques at d'hygiene
A relationship between foaming and H.L.B. value
Authors: BADWAN A.A. , CHAM T.M. , JAMES K.C. , PUGH W.J.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

The foaming properties of solutions of purified samples of the C10 to C18 even‐numbered sodium alkyl sulphates in water have been studied using three methods of foam generation. Foam volumes increased with increase in surfactant concentration, and reached a limiting value at the C.M.C. At post‐C.M.C. concentrations, foam volumes increased to a maximum with temperature, and then decreased. The point at which the maximum occurred, the maximum foam temperature (M.F.T.), varied from one surfactant to another, but was independent of the experimental method. M.F.T. was inversely proportional to the hydrophile‐lipophile balance (H.L.B.) value. The corresponding triethanolamine salts behaved in the same way. Similar results were observed with non‐ionics, but the plots of H.L.B. value against M.F.T. were positive.

Relation entre le pouvoir moussant et la valeur H.L.B.
Evaluation de la dynamique des dystrophies du cheveu par la microscopie optique et électronique à balayage
Authors: PIERARD G. E.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Des dystrophies du cheveu sont acquises ou ont un déterminisme génétique. Elles peuvent être isolées ou associées à un trouble du cycle de croissance. Quelles que soient les anomalies, elles peuvent toutes être aisément reconnues sur un trichogramme et leur microanatomie précisée par l'observation en microscopie électronique à balayage.

Une interprétation pathogénique peut être proposée pour certaines dystrophies se marquant par une modification du calibre du cheveu. En effet, un dysmorphisme pilaire aura pour cause une altération frappant soit les cellules kératinisées, soit les cellules métaboliquement actives. Dans le premier cas, un traumatisme physique ou chimique altère la structure des cellules kératinisées du cheveu après son émergence de la peau.

Dans le deuxième cas, la perturbation génétique ou acquise se marque au niveau des cellules matricielles ou en voie de différenciation. Elle est le reflet d'une perte de contrôle de l'homéostasie de croissance du cheveu sous la dépendance de la forme et du volume de la matrice (donc de la papille), de la proportion de cellules inscrites dans le cycle de division cellulaire, de la durée du cycle, de l'augmentation de volume de chaque cellule pendant sa différenciation et de sa vitesse de migration.

Evaluation of the dynamics of hair dystrophy by optical and scanning electron microscopy

The size and shape of a segment of a hair are two fairly constant parameters. Their homeostasis reflects a precise regulation of the size and shape of the matrix (therefore of the papilla), of the proportion of cells normally engaged in the cycle of cellular division, of the duration of this cycle, of the increase in the average volume of cells during differentiation, and of their speed of migration. Any disturbance in this precise pattern causes dystrophies that are acquired or genetically determined. These abnormalities in hair structure can be observed and recognised by optical and by scanning electron microscopy.

The metabolic pathology acting through the matrix cells has to be differentiated from other alterations induced on the hair shaft by physical or chemical agents. These latter alterations can be present all along the hair shaft after its emergence from the skin or rise in tiers. These injuries are cumulative, irreversible and increase fragility and brittleness of the hair shaft.
Le vieillissement, son expression au niveau de la microanatomie et des propriétés physiques de la peau
Authors: PIERARD G. E. , FRANCHIMONT C. , LAPIERE CH. M.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

L'aspect et les qualités physiques de la peau varient avec l'âge de l'individu. Ces propriétés dépendent de la microstructure des divers tissus, et en particulier de la couche cornée, de la couche de Malpighi, du derme adventitiel, du derme réticulaire et de l'hypoderme.

Ces caractéristiques microanatomiques et fonctionnelles peuvent être examinées en microscopie électronique à balayage sur des tissus soumis à des tensions variables.

Ageing as shown by the microanatomy and the physical properties of the skin

The aspect and the physical properties of skin vary with age. These properties depend on the microstructure of the tissues, namely the stratum corneum, the malpighian layer, the adventitial dermis, the reticular dermis and the hypodermis.

These microanatomical and functional characteristics can be observed by scanning electron microscopy on tissues under variable strain.
Attitude du dermatologue devant la peau grasse
Authors: CHIVOT M.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

La séborrhée constitue un terrain sur lequel peuvent se développer des complications à type d'acné ou d'infections à levures. Mais elle représente à elle seule un désordre dont les traitements médicaux sont actuellement peu satisfaisants.

L'acné et les infections à levures sont des affections cutanees pour lesquelles il existe actuellement des traitements efficaces, mais purement suspensifs et nécessitent donc un traitement d'entretien sous peine de récidive.

Seborrhea is a problem which ought to be corrected in view of its inacceptability for aesthetic reasons as well as for the complications which can follow, particularly those of acne.

The medical treatments of seborrhea are not entirely satisfactory. Products for treating seborrhea do not give complete satisfaction due to secondary effects. When the dosages employed are sufficient to have an effect they are also contraindicated, especially in the female. Cosmetic treatments have considerable benefit and are completely innocuous.

The treatment of acne is based on the inhibition of bacterial colonization of the pilo‐sebaceous follicle (tetracycline, erythromycine and benzoyl peroxide) as well as by treatments which modify keratinization (vitamin A acid as well as salicylic acid and resorcin).

Yeast infections appearing on oily skins are easily treated by classic fungicides. These two diseases associated with oily skin recur continually and require a maintenance therapy.
Antioxidant properties of wax from Yugoslavian oakmoss (Evernia prunastri)
Authors: RACINE PH. , HARTMANN V. E. , D'AUDIFFRET Y. TOLLARD
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Wax from Yugoslavian oakmoss resulting from the industrial benzene extraction of the vegetable matter was extracted by solvents of different polarities. The wax and the extracts were tested for antioxidant activities using (+) limonene as peroxidizable test substrate and were found to have such activity. The extracts are more active than the wax itself. Although not directly usable because of still too low activity, the wax and the extracts contain a small amount of substance with antioxidant activity comparable to that of the usual synthetic antioxidants.
Metabolisme des androgénes dans la peau humaine
Authors: KUTTENN FRÉDERIQUE , MAUVAIS‐JARVIS PIERRE
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

La peau possède toutes les protéines impliquées dans le mécanisme d'action des androgènes, et le métabolisme de ces androgènes y joue un rôle capital: non seulement la peau est le siège de la 5α‐réductase qui transforme la testostérone en son métabolite actif la DHT, mais elle peut aussi produire de la testostérone à partir d'androgenes moins actifs: Δ4‐androstènedione et dehydroépiandrostérone.

L'activité de la 5α‐réductase est variable selon les régions: elle est élevée d'emblée et dans les deux sexes au niveau des organes génitaux externes, quelle que soit la sécrétion d'androgenes. Elle s'élève à la puberté, surtout dans le sexe masculin, et apparaît androgéno‐dépendante, au niveau des zones à caractére sexuel secondaire et notamment du follicule pilo‐sébacé.

Les modèles pathologiques viennent confirmer l'importance de cette étape métabolique: le déficit en 5α‐réductase est cause de pseudohermaphrodisme masculin, son excés d'activité est responsable d'hirsutisme idiopathique.

La connaissance des diverses étapes du mécanisme d'action des androgènes est indispensable à toute tentative thérapeutique qu'elle soit androgénique ou anti‐androgénique, systémique ou topique.

In human beings, androgen metabolism plays an important role in mediating the action of male hormones upon target structures of the skin. First, human skin is capable of transforming inactive steroids supplied through the blood, such as androstenedione and dehydroisoandrosterone, into the active androgen testosterone. Second, human skin is able to reduce testosterone to 5α‐DHT, an essential prerequisite, during embryogenesis, for the male differentiation of target structures derived from urogenital sinus. At puberty, hair growth in sexual areas of skin also requires the transformation of testosterone to DHT.

Regulation of 5α‐reductase activity varies according to the anatomical site of the enzyme. In foetuses, 5α‐reductase activity present in tissues derived from the urogenital tract does not seem to be androgen‐dependent, since it is acquired before the onset of testosterone secretion by foetal testis. By contrast, the enzyme that mediates development of certain secondary sex characteristics, such as pilosebaceous gland activity in sexual areas, is clearly androgen‐dependent, since it is absent before puberty and in persons with hypogonadism.

These differences in the control of the 5α‐reductase activity mediating the appearance of either primary or secondary sex characteristics are important and may explain the differences in 5a‐reductase activity observed in adult skin of both sexes derived from different sexual areas.

In addition, the knowledge of androgen relation to the skin is necessary in order to understand the action of the anti‐androgens, particularly the compounds which may be used by topical administration.
Studies on the mechanism of topical anhidrosis due to polyvalent cations
Authors: MICHNIAK B. B.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Although eccrine sweat glands are present in the foot pads of many mammals, and are abundant in the general body skin of many of the higher primates, it is only in man that these glands have a thermoregulatory function and are cosmetically significant. The expansion in sales of various antiperspirant products containing complexes of aluminium and zirconium has resulted in many studies, whose aim is to elucidate the mode of action of these substances.

Sweat production in the rat foot pad in vivo has been studied, and its modification following topical application of various polyvalent cations. Results of studies of protein precipitation by these cations are also discussed.

Etude de l'action de certains cations polyvalents sur l'anhidrose cutanée.
L'acide pyrrolidone carboxylique (PCA) et la peau
Authors: CLAR E.J. , FOURTANIER A.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Une recherche bibliographique des données de la littérature médicale fait le point sur le métabolisme et le rôle possible de l'acide pyrrolidone carboxylique (PCA) et de son sel de sodium (PCNa) dans la peau, particulièrement au niveau du Stratum Corneum. L'article présente également une série d'évaluations biophysiques (impédance et relaxation α) et cliniques des propriétés hydratantes des crèmes ou lotions contenant l'acide et/ou son sel.

II est maintenant acquis que le couple PCA/PCNa est un agent hydratant efficace et que toutes les préparations cosmétiques qui en contiennent au moins 2% ont un effet bénéfique sur les peaux sèches à condition que le véhicule utilisé pénètre dans les couches superficielles du Stratum Corneum (les solutions aqueuses ne conviennent pas).

Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and the skin

The medical and biological literature was reviewed with stress laid on the role of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) and its sodium salt (NaPCA) in skin, its metabolism, its functions.

The paper also includes a summary of 8 years of evaluation work carried out in our Laboratory on creams and lotions containing PCA‐NaPCA which were assessed by biophysical (impedance measurement, α relaxation) and clinical methods.

It is now definitely demonstrated that PCA is an hydrating agent and that all the cosmetic preparations containing at least 2% of the PCA‐NaPCA salt system improve the condition of dry skin at short or long term provided an adequate vehicle is used (e.g. aqueous solutions are ineffective).

The mecanism of action is discussed with reference to metabolism and physiological role of PCA in stratum corneum.
Etude expérimental de l'hypersensibilité cutanée à la lanoline et à deux de ses dérivés utilisés en cosmétologie
Authors: BOURRINET P. , BERKOVIC A.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Parmi les avertissements apparus nécessaires à la protection de l'utilisateur et devant figurer sur les récipients, emballages ou notices des produits cosmétiques et d'hygiène corporelle, il en est un concernant la lanoline. La réglementation prévoit l'inscription de la mention ‘important contient de la lanoline'. Des réactions cutanées de type allergique ont été rencontrées ces dernières années apèes application de produits contenant de la lanoline ou des dérivés de lanoline, alors que la lanoline est utilisée depuis très longtemps.

Ces pourquoi les auteurs ont voulu vérifier expérimentalement chez le Cobaye l'hypersensibilité cutanée à la lanoline et à ses dérivés, et notamment aux alcools gras de lanoline qui sont incriminés par de nombreux auteurs.

Aucune réaction n'a été observée avec une lanoline purifiée, même si celle‐ci est ancienne.

Une faible potentialité d'allergénicité a été mise en évidence avec un dérivé semiliquide. Des réactions de sensibilisation ont été observées avec un échantillon d'alcools gras de lanoline.

Ces résultats sont analysés et comparés à ceux publiés dans la littérature.

Cutaneous hypersensitivity tests in guinea‐pig of lanolin and derivatives used in cosmetology

Among the warnings which are now necessary in Europe for the protection of the consumer and which must appear on the packagings of cosmetic and corporal hygiene products, there is one concerning lanolin. The regulation requires the mention ‘Important, this product contains lanolin'. Cutaneous allergic reactions have been reported in the last few years after application of products containing lanolin or lanolin derivatives although lanolin has been used for a long time.

The paper describes tests of cutaneous hypersensitivity on the guinea‐pig with lanolin, lanolin alcohol and a semi‐liquid lanolin.

No reaction was observed with a purified lanolin, even if it was old.

A weak allergenic effect was shown with the semi‐liquid derivative. Sensitization reactions were observed with a sample of lanolin fatty alcohols.

These results were analysed and compared to those published in literature.
The effects of cosmetics on person perception
Authors: GRAHAM JEAN ANN , JOUHAR A. J.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

The study reported here forms part of an investigation of what psychological benefits, if any, exist for the user of cosmetics.

A central theme in the work on physical attractiveness is that if one is physically attractive one is assumed to have a more ideal personality than someone of lesser attractiveness.

If cosmetics really do make people look more physically attractive, then with the use of cosmetics others should perceive people more favourably in terms of personality characteristics.

This study, therefore, attempted to find out whether cosmetics really do improve appearance ratings (by males and females) and in result improve ratings of personality.

Colour photographs of four female stimulus persons of average physical attractiveness in each of four modes (neither make‐up nor hair care; make‐up but no hair care; no make‐up but hair care; both make‐up and hair care) were evaluated by a judge panel of sixteen males and sixteen females. The amount, extent and style of use of facial make‐up and hair care was no more than would be in everyday use.

Each judge saw one stimulus person in each mode but no stimulus person in more than one mode in a counter‐balanced design, using 7‐point rating scales of six appearance and fourteen personality dimensions.

Two hypotheses were confirmed:

The use of cosmetics (facial make‐up and hair care) leads to more favourable appearance ratings by others (both males and females). For make‐up there were more favourable ratings on all of the six appearance scales, and for hair care there were more favourable ratings on four of the six appearance scales.

The use of cosmetics leads to more favourable ratings of personality as perceived by others (both males and females). Facial make‐up enhanced ratings on eight of the fourteen personality dimensions tested and hair treatment led to more favourable ratings on ten of the scales.

It is not certain from this study whether persons using cosmetics are rated more favourably than without cosmetics because they are seen as more physically attractive and in result acquire more favourable ratings for attributes which are associated with being physically attractive or whether there is a direct effect on perceived personality, independent of enhancement of physical attractiveness, or both.

Either explanation is possible, though there is some support for the idea that the use of cosmetics (or at least hair care) may have a direct effect on perceived personality.

If this were so, it would suggest the existence of a separate positive cosmetic stereotype which carries its own concept ‘what has been cared for is good’. This stereotype would form an extension of the ‘what is beautiful is good’ stereotype for physical attractiveness. Otherwise, and as a result of the work reported here, the latter might become ‘what has been made beautiful is good’, when cosmetics are used.
The determination of N‐nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) at trace levels in shampoos and skin creams by a simple, rapid colorimetric method
Authors: TELLING G. M. , DUNNETT P. C.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

A technique is described for the rapid determination of N‐nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) in shampoos, skin creams and similar products based on aqueous extraction, partition into ethyl acetate and colorimetric determination using the Eisenbrand‐Preussman cleavage reaction.

Recoveries of NDELA added at levels of 5–100 μg kg−1 to a range of shampoo and cream types ranged from 90–101%. The limit of determination for the method is 2.5 μg kg−1. Observations on the application of a thermal energy analyser linked to a gas chromatograph are also reported.

Application of the technique to a survey of a wide range of shampoo and skin cream types showed that levels of total N‐nitroso compounds were less than 30 μg kg−1 in < 90% of samples and, in many cases, less than 2.5 μg kg‐1.

Dosage des traces de N‐nitrosodiethanolamine dans les shampooings et crèmes
A method for evaluating the photoprotective action of sunscreens against UV‐A radiation
Authors: GROVES G. A. , FORBES P. D.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

The present methods of assessing the photoprotective action of sunscreens against UV‐A radiation have been reviewed. A more rapid and precise method using anthracene and the hairless mouse has been developed. The method is specific for UV‐A radiation.

Une méthode pour évaluer l'action photoprotectrice des filtres solaires à l'encontre du rayonnement UV‐A
Evolution in the composition of human skin surface lipids during their accumulation on scalp and hair
Authors: BORE PIERRE , GOETZ NOEL , GATAUD PAULE , TOURENQ LUCIENNE
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Qualitative examination of human surface lipids collected using a surfactant solution shows that there are no significant differences between individuals when the samples are collected after one day, starting from clean hair and scalp. On the contrary, samples collected after 4 days reveal discrepancies within the population, related to the oily hair symptom.

An evolution in the composition of the recovered mixture occurs during the 1–4 days accumulation period, which mainly results in an increased unsaturation of the total (free + glycerides) fatty acids fraction isolated after saponification.

A two‐step mechanism is proposed to account for the observed evolution: in a first step, free fatty acids are cleaved from glycerides by the well known enzymatic hydrolysis. Analytical determinations show that this process is structure dependant, the straight chain saturated acids being more readily hydrolyzable than the unsaturated and branched chain species. In a second step, free fatty acids are immobilized on the keratinic fibers, by a process which involves the formation of Ca salts.

This evolution results in a decreased viscosity of the skin surface lipids and in an increase of the low temperature melting fraction of the mixture. Its extent is more or less pronounced, depending upon the individuals. Subjects who exhibit extensive evolution are affected by the oily hair symptom.

Evolution de la composition des lipides superficiels humains durant leur accumulation sur le scalp et les cheveux
Evaluation du pouvoir sensibilisant chez le cobaye de differents echantillons d'alcools de lanoline
Authors: GUILLOT J.P. , MARTINI M.C. , GIAUFFRET J.Y. , GONNET J.F.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

En complément d'un article publié en 1980 (1) les auteurs présentent les résultats obtenus avec 6 échantillons d'alcools de lanoline. Les substances testées étaient des produits du commerce en provenance de différents fournisseurs. L'évaluation du pouvoir sensibilisant par applications topiques chez le cobaye a été conduite selon une métode inspirée de celle de Magnusson et Kligman.

Les résultats des examens macroscopiques et histologiques, obtenus dans les conditions expérimentales adoptées sur les 6 échantillons d'alcools de lanoline étudiés, n'ont mis en évidence aucune réaction pathologique significative traduisant une allergie cutanée: ils confirment donc ceux obtenus précédemment.

Evaluation of sensitizing potential on guinea‐pig with six samples of lanolin alcohols.
Physiological background to skin ageing
Authors: EBLING F. J. G.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Ageing and ultimate death, when survival offers no reproductive advantages to the species, are essential to the evolutionary process. Yet the prolongation of youth has always been a human dream. The prevention of ageing in visible areas of skin is desirable not for physiological but for social reasons; the skin proclaims our sexuality and asserts our social image. Has the aspiration any hope of success?

Ageing of the skin involves changes in the dermis, epidermis, pigment cells, hair follicles, sebaceous and sweat glands, and sense organs. Some of these changes appear intrinsic to the organs concerned; some are dependent on hormonal and other systemic mechanisms; some involve environmental factors such as radiation. If changes of the first type appear to be inevitable, those of the second may be modifiable, and those of the third may, to some extent, be preventable.

L'histoire physiologique du vieillissement de la peau
Effects of avocado and soya bean lipidic non‐saponifiables on the components of skin connective tissue after topical application in the hairless rat: biophysical and biomechanical determination
Authors: LAMAUD E. , HUC A. , WEPIERRE J.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

The non‐saponifiable lipidic fractions of avocado and soya bean applied percutaneously to hairless rats for 15 days had been shown to produce biochemical modifications of dermal connective tissue components: increases of soluble collagen and of the ratio soluble collagen/insoluble collagen.

In this present study, we tried to show whether these biochemical modifications could be confirmed by biophysical analytical methods and could affect the biochemical properties of the skin.

The experiments were carried out on three groups of rats treated by application to the dorsal skin, either with 0.9% NaCl (control), or sweet almond oil (vehicle), or with a mixture of 2/3 soya bean and 1/3 avocado in solution at 5% of sweet almond oil (treated group). After 15 days treatment, the rats were killed and the skin of the treated area dissected.

X‐ray diffraction diagrams were recorded by varying the position of previously dried samples in controlled conditions. Results indicated that the vehicle decreased the orientation degree of collagen fibres, acting on their reticulation. The addition of the non‐saponifiable fraction did not significantly add to the vehicle effect.

The study of thermostability of the cutaneous collagen by differential scanning calorimetry showed that non‐saponifiables increased the slope of the rise of temperature of denaturation. The quantity of heat absorbed during the denaturation (enthalpy variation) reached around 0.04 J mg−1 of collagen in the control groups and did not exceed 0.03 J mg−1 of collagen in the treated ones. Taken in conjunction with previous work it is probable that the non‐saponifiables increase the proportion of soluble collagen.

The elasticity of whole skin, determined by a static method using an Instron exten‐siometer was significantly modified by treatment with non‐saponifiables. They produced a decrease of the elasticity module. These results correspond to a decrease of collagen reticulation degree.

L'action des insaponifiables d'avocat et de soja sur le tissu conjonctif par application topique sur le rat. Determination biophysique et biomecanique
Henné. Absorption de la lawsone par le cheveu
Authors: FORESTIER J. P.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Une étude préalable par chromatographie sur couche mince des extraits de cheveux traités à la lawsone (No. CAS 83.72.7) ou au henné (feuille de Lawsonia inermis) confirme que la lawsone est bien le seul colorant du henné’.

Nous avons mis au point une méthode originale de ‘gravimétric dynamique’qui nous a permis de déterminer l'absorption de la lawsone par le cheveu traité au henné.

Après un retard à l'origine, l'accroissement de masse est linéaire en fonction de la racine carrée du temps indiquant un processus de diffusion, la courbe s'incurve ensuite vers la saturation. Une étude en fonction de la température confirme le phénomène de diffusion.

La lawsone diffuse plus rapidement dans le cheveu traité au henné que traitéà la lawsone seule. De même l'extraction de la lawsone fixée dans le cheveu est plus rapide quand il a été traité par la lawsone au lieu du henné.

La lawsone diffuse plus vite et en plus grande quantité dans les cheveux châtain et décoloré que dans le cheveu noir.

Dans une compétition entre le henné et des tanins: à la surface du cheveu les tanins l'emportent, á l'intérieur la lawsone l'emporte.

La lawsone fixée aux kératines semble ètre un bon écran solaire.

Henna. Sorption of lawsone by hair
Influence du processus d'homogénéisation sur la stabilité des émulsions
Authors: SAUNAL H. , LAGET J. P. , ALVARADO D. E. A. , DELONCA ET H.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Trois processus de fabrication utilisant respectivement un mélangeur doux à hélice, un homogénéisateur à filière et un homogénéisateur à valve ont été utilisés pour la fabrication d'émulsions à base de trois phases huileuses et de quinze couples émulsifiants permettant d'obtenir différentes valeurs HLB. Les homogénéisateurs permettent d'obtenir des émulsions plus stables que le mélangeur à hélice mais le phénomène inverse est observéà plusieurs reprises. Dans ce cas plusieurs interprétations sont proposées: l'énergie mécanique apportée sous forme d'énergie libre, modifie l'équilibre de l'interaction huile couple émulsifiant; l'homogénéisation augmente considérablement l'aire de contact à un point tel que le film interfacial est déficient en tensio actifs et ne peut plus remplir son rôle; l'émulsif n'est plus en excès dans la phase externe et ne joue plus un rôle viscosifiant comme c'est le cas dans les émulsions non homogénéisées. D'une façon générale, les caractéristiques physiques des émulsions, reflètent la quantité d'énergie déployée lors de la fabrication. Elles sont d'autant plus fines et plus fluides que la pression d'homogénéisation est élevée. Mais ces caractères ne sont pas toujours systématiquement reliés à une plus grande stabilité, et peuvent évoluer au cours de la conservation.

Influence of homogenization on emulsion stability

Three manufacturing procedures using a slow propeller mixer, a labyrinth and a valve homogenizer were used for the preparation of emulsions.

Three oil phases and fifteen pairs of emulsifiers were used giving a range of HLB values.

These homogenizers gave more stable emulsions than the propeller mixer in the majority of cases although several times the reverse was the case.

To interpret these reversals several mechanisms are suggested: the mechanical engergy applied to the system modifies the equilibrium of the interaction oil/emulsifier; homogenization gives a considerable increase in the contact to the point where the interfacial film is deficient in surface agents and is unable to stablilise completely the system or the emulsifier is no longer in sufficient concentration in the aqueous phase to play its role in viscosity modification which appears to be the case in non homogenized emulsions.
Clinical characteristics and course of spinal cord involvement in Behçet's disease
Authors: Yesilot N. , Mutlu M. , Gungor O. , Baykal B. , Serdaroglu P. , Akman‐Demir G.
Published: May 2007

Parenchymal neurological involvement in Behçet's disease (p‐NBD) usually presents with a brainstem syndrome; occasionally spinal cord may also be involved. Files of patients with Behçet's disease and spinal cord involvement were reviewed retrospectively, in comparison with other types of p‐NBD. Amongst 216 patients with p‐NBD, 24 had spinal cord involvement (11%). Most commonly patients presented with sensory‐motor symptoms, sphincter and/or sexual dysfunction evolving over days. Four of 10 patients showed single or multiple cervical and/or dorsal lesions on spinal MRI's and one showed dorsal atrophy. Although the clinical picture was variable, it tended to be severe; seven cases had primary progressive course, 11 cases had a secondary progressive course after initial attack(s), four had attacks with severe residual sequela and two had improvement after attacks. After a median follow‐up period of 67 months, eight were independent and 14 were dead or dependent, whereas amongst the remaining patients with p‐NBD, 113 patients were independent and 56 patients were dead or dependent (P < 0.05). Our study suggests that spinal cord involvement has even worse prognosis compared with other types of p‐NBD. Therefore, recognition of spinal cord involvement in Behçet's patients should prompt early vigorous treatment.
Use of an electromagnetic technique to determine sodicity in saline‐sodic soils
Authors: Amezketa E.
Published: May 2007

Soil sodicity is an increasing problem in arid‐land irrigated soils that decreases soil permeability and crop production and increases soil erosion. The first step towards the control of sodic soils is the accurate diagnosis of the severity and spatial extent of the problem. Rapid identification and large‐scale mapping of sodium‐affected land will help to improve sodicity management. We evaluated the effectiveness of electromagnetic induction (EM) measurements in identifying, characterizing and mapping the spatial variability of sodicity in five saline‐sodic agricultural fields in Navarre (Spain). Each field was sampled at three 30‐cm soil depth increments at 10–30 sites for a total of 267 soil samples. The number of Geonics‐EM38 measurements in each field varied between 161 and 558, for a total of 1258 ECa (apparent electrical conductivity) readings. Multiple linear regression models established for each field predicted the average profile ECe (electrical conductivity of the saturation extract) and SAR (sodium adsorption ratio of the saturation extract) from ECa. Despite the lack of a direct causal relationship between ECa and SAR, EM measurements can be satisfactorily used for characterizing the spatial distribution of soil sodicity if ECe and SAR are significantly auto‐correlated. These results provide ancillary support for using EM measurements to indirectly characterize the spatial distribution of saline‐sodic soils. More research is needed to elucidate the usefulness of EM measurements in identifying soil sodicity in a wider range of salt and/or sodium‐affected soils.
Lower Cardiac Output Is Associated with Greater White Matter Hyperintensities in Older Adults with Cardiovascular Disease
Authors: Jefferson Angela L. , Tate David F. , Poppas Athena , Brickman Adam M. , Paul Robert H. , Gunstad John , Cohen Ronald A.
Published: May 2007

OBJECTIVES: To preliminarily examine the association between cardiac output, a measure of systemic blood flow, and structural brain magnetic resonance imaging indices of white matter hyperintensities (WMHs).

DESIGN: Cross‐sectional.

SETTING: University medical setting.

PARTICIPANTS: Thirty‐six older adults without dementia with prevalent cardiovascular disease (aged 56–85).

MEASUREMENTS: Cardiac output, WMHs.

RESULTS: Partial correlations, adjusting for age and history of hypertension, yielded an inverse relationship between WMHs adjacent to subcortical nuclei and cardiac output (correlation coefficient=−0.48, P=.03); as cardiac output decreased, WMHs increased significantly. No significant associations were found between cardiac output and total WMHs or periventricular WMHs.

CONCLUSION: These preliminary data suggest that systemic blood flow, measured according to cardiac output, is inversely associated with WMHs adjacent to the subcortical nuclei. Cerebrovascular degeneration and the chronicity of hypoperfusion may exacerbate the susceptibility of white matter integrity to alterations in blood flow in older adults.
A Comparison of Ethnic Businesses in Suburbs and City
Authors: Fong Eric , Chen Wenhong , Luk Chiu
Published: May 2007

We extend research on ethnic businesses by comparing the distribution of ethnic businesses in suburbs and city. The study is drawn from a recently compiled data set of Chinese businesses in Toronto. Drawing from four diverse and different sets of literature on ethnic businesses and urban forms, we identify factors that may affect the geographic distribution of ethnic business. The results clearly indicate a substantial presence of ethnic businesses in the suburban areas. They also suggest that Chinese businesses are more clustered in suburban neighborhoods. The multivariate analyses further show that the distribution of Chinese businesses in suburban and city neighborhoods is affected by different sets of factors, which possibly reflect the different effects of suburban and city spatial forms.
Correlation between N‐Terminal Pro B‐Natriuretic Peptide and Ultrasonic Backscatter: Implications for Diastolic Dysfunction in Hypertension
Authors: Tekten Tarkan , Yenisey Cigdem , Ceyhan Ceyhun , Onbasili Alper O. , Discigil Guzel , Kaya Murat , Unal Selim
Published: May 2007

Objective: This study was designed to determine how N‐terminal pro brain‐natriuretic peptide (NT‐proBNP) levels correlate with cyclic variation of integrated backscatter (CVIBS) as a reflection of abnormal diastolic function in hypertension. Patients: Forty essentially hypertensive patients were studied. CVIBS values were obtained from the septal wall in the parasternal long‐axis view. Twelve had normal diastolic function, 18 had impaired relaxation, and 10 had pseudonormal pattern. Results: Patients with normal diastolic function had a mean NT‐proBNP concentration of 34 ± 17 pg/ml and a mean CVIBS value of 7.1 ± 0.9 dB; those with impaired relaxation had a mean NT‐proBNP concentration of 71 ± 25 pg/ml and a mean CVIBS value of 6.7 ± 1.1 dB. Patients with pseudonormal pattern had the highest NT proBNP levels (206 ± 75 pg/ml) and lowest CVIBS values (5.7 ± 0.9 dB). An NT‐proBNP value of 62 pg/ml had a sensitivity of 83% and a specificity of 91%; a CVIBS value of 7.2 dB had a sensitivity of 83.3% and a specificity of 66.7% for detecting diastolic dysfunction. An NT‐proBNP value of 120 pg/ml had a sensitivity of 76% and a specificity of 96%; a CVIBS value of 6.1 dB had a sensitivity of 87.5% and a specificity of 75% for detecting severe diastolic dysfunction. A close correlation was found between the NT‐proBNP and CVIBS values (r: 0.54, P < 0.05). Conclusion: Combinative use of NT‐proBNP and CVIBS can detect the presence of diastolic abnormalities on echocardiography. A good correlation was found between the NT‐proBNP and CVIBS values in detecting diastolic dysfunction in essentially hypertensive patients.
Acquired acrodermatitis enteropathica: case report of an atypical presentation
Authors: Sanchez Julio E. , Barham Kelly L. , Sangueza Omar P.
Published: May 2007

Acrodermatitis enteropathica (ADE) is a rare genetic or acquired disorder of hypozincemia. It can be caused by impaired intestinal absorption of zinc or by poor consumption of the mineral. It is characterized by skin lesions on acral and periorificial areas and may be associated to alopecia, diarrhea and increased frequency of infections. We present an atypical presentation of ADE in a 33‐year‐old women with a history of mental retardation and psoriasis that presented with lesions on the periorificial areas and extremities, and low plasma zinc levels.
Georg Brandes between Politics and the Political1
Authors: Houe Poul
Published: May 2007

While conventional politics played a part in Georg Brandes's critical practice that has received ample scholarly attention, his appropriation of the political as an ontological concern with ‘‘the very way society is instituted’’ (to cite Chantal Mouffe) has gone quite unheeded in studies of his writings. Yet I consider this dimension to be indispensable for Brandes's ability to articulate his most antagonistic leanings within democratic forms of discourse. Thus he reconciled an acceptance of concensus with the need for dissent.

 My essay interrogates three areas that were strongly on Brandes's mind during successive phases of his mature life: the Danish constitutional struggle of the 1880s, the so‐called Dreyfus affair around 1900, and later the repression of minorities, foreign lands, and anti‐war movements in Europe. In each area he makes an uncompromising stand within the boundary of civil, intellectual discourse. Such antagonism channeled into democratic expresssion is what Mouffe calls agonism, and as Brandes expresses antagonism at its most agonizing, I argue that he displays the political in a nutshell for a post‐political era to behold.
The God Squad and the Origins of Transplantation Ethics and Policy
Authors: Jonsen Albert R.
Published: May 2007

This is the God Squad. It is faceless, impersonal, unmoved by tragedy, almost terrorist in aspect. The photo appeared inLIFEmagazine on November 9, 1962, and it depicted the Admissions and Policy Committee of the Seattle Artificial Kidney Center. The Committee had been established in 1962 to select those few persons who would be admitted to the new and tiny dialysis unit that was created by Dr. Belding Scribner, inventor of the arteriovenous shunt. It consisted of seven anonymous members – a minister, a lawyer, a businessman, a homemaker, a labor leader, and two physicians. Each month they received a pile of charts about persons with end-stage renal disease. A prior medical evaluation had rated them all medically suitable for dialysis. The Committee’s task was to select one or two out of a dozen or so to take the available spots. The others were left to die. After several years of this agonizing work, the amendments to the Social Security Act provided financial support for renal dialysis and transplant, allowing the Admission Committee some peace of mind.
Markets in Health Care: The Case of Renal Transplantation
Authors: Brennan Troyen
Published: May 2007

Recent developments in organ procurement have revived the much-debated role of markets in our health care system. The unique American health care system, with its presumption of universality alongside private health insurance and relatively limited federal and state programs, is in many ways consumer-driven today. We certainly tolerate more broad disparities in availability of care and in outcomes of care largely based on socioeconomic status than do many other developed countries, where notions of universal access are supported by broader public financing.
The Injustice of Enforced Equal Access to Transplant Operations: Rethinking Reckless Claims of Fairness
Authors: Engelhardt H. Tristram
Published: May 2007

This essay does not directly address organ transplantation or even issues of justice, fairness, or equality in access to organs for transplantation. Instead, it engages a higher-order question: the justice of coercively and globally imposing any particular contentfull view of justice, fairness, and/or equality (i.e., a view grounded in a particular ranking of primary human goods and/or right-making conditions) under circumstances that would violate peaceable, consensual choice. It is argued that state coercion, as in the prohibition of the sale of organs or the coercive imposition of equal access to transplantations or health care, is unjust when there are insufficient grounds to establish with certainty the canonical normative character of the particular account of justice, fairness, or equality, as well as the warrant for the use of coercive force to impose such an account.
Brain Death — Too Flawed to Endure, Too Ingrained to Abandon
Authors: Truog Robert D.
Published: May 2007

The concept of brain death was recently described as being “at once well settled and persistently unresolved.” Every day, in the United States and around the world, physicians diagnose patients as brain dead, and then proceed to transplant organs from these patients into others in need. Yet as well settled as this practice has become, brain death continues to be the focus of controversy, with two journals in bioethics dedicating major sections to the topic within the last two years.

By way of background, the Uniform Determination of Death Act states that “[a]n individual who has sustained either: (1) irreversible cessation of circulatory and respiratory functions, or (2) irreversible cessation of all functions of the entire brain, including the brain stem, is dead. A determination of death must be made in accordance with accepted medical standards.” In other words, death can be defined by either cardiorespiratory or neurological criteria, with “brain death” representing the loss of all brain function. This standard, or closely related variants, has become the accepted approach throughout the United States and in many parts of the world.
Genetic Testing and the Future of Disability Insurance: Ethics, Law & Policy
Authors: Wolf Susan M. , Kahn Jeffrey P. ,   With input from the Working Group on Genetic Testing in Disability Insurance
Published: May 2007

Genetic testing poses fundamental questions for insurance. Testing can predict a low probability of future illness and disability, which can help promote the insurability of individuals with a family history of genetic risk, but it can also invite insurers to reject applicants, increase premiums, exclude people with certain illnesses and disabilities, and otherwise adjust the underwriting processes for individuals with certain genotypes. In the workplace, these issues may cause employers who offer or pay for insurance to alter their hiring behavior, either by selecting those with desirable genetic makeup or rejecting, dismissing, or reassigning those who carry an unwanted risk, ultimately threatening employability and the safety net that insurance is intended to provide.
Disability Income Insurance: The Private Market and the Impact of Genetic Testing
Authors: Christianson David J.
Published: May 2007

This article discusses the disability insurance industry in order to provide context regarding the potential impact of genetic testing on disability insurance. It describes disability income insurance, exploring both the protection it offers and its main contract provisions. It goes on to describe the private insurance market and the differences between group and individual insurance, and concludes with implications of genetic testing with respect to the private disability insurance market. The individual disability income insurance market is theoretically of great interest as a matter of public policy since there is potential for unfair discrimination through genetic testing although this remains very unlikely as a matter of practice, however.

It is more likely that a person will become disabled than die before age 65. The loss of income during a disability can be quite devastating. In contrast to the high risk and high impact of disability are the realities of the disability market.