bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
LONG-TERM SUBSIDENCE OF BEACH NOURISHMENT AND DUNE RESTORATION IN CAMINADA HEADLANDS, COASTAL LOUISIANA
Authors: Jafari Navid H. , Harris Brian D. , Stark Timothy D.
Published: February 2019

Coastal barrier islands are the first line of defense for protecting wetlands, inland bays, and mainland regions from direct effects of wind, waves, and storms. Rosati (2006) indicate that 20 to 40% of the total sand volume can be sequestered and lost from the sandy barrier island through consolidation. As a result, predicting long-term subsurface sediment consolidation is integral to determining the ability of barrier islands to provide coastal protection and resilience to future hazards, such as relative sea level rise, sediment erosion, and hurricanes. This study uses the Caminada Headlands geotechnical investigations and monitoring data to determine empirical correlations for deltaic sediment compressibility and develop a validated and calibrated consolidation and subsidence numerical model for future barrier island restoration projects. With this calibrated model, differential settlements associated with sand fill placement can be estimated to design placement elevations to maintain post-construction topography for ecological habitat and restoration requirements and can be used for future beach restoration projects along barrier island shorelines.
COUPLED COASTAL TOWN RISK FRAMEWORK TO EVALUATE MANAGEMENT DECISIONS
Authors: Karanci Ayse , Dietrich Casey
Published: February 2019

Past research has shown feedback between natural and human decision systems in coastal areas influence the efficiency of management actions. To capture these feedbacks, a coupled coastal town risk framework was developed (Karanci et. al., 2017) which uses storms and sea level rise as exogenous drivers and simulates the evolution of the morphological landscape, implementation of soft-engineered coastal protection measures and householdâ€™s occupation/abandonment decisions through the years. Employing scenario analysis, the framework can be used to illustrate and explore the ramifications of coastal management decisions and policies. Numerous scenarios with diverse conditions can be considered by varying natural (storm frequency, SLR) and socio-economic conditions (insurance rates, flooding risk perception, costs of prevention measures). The utilization of the process-based model XBeach (1-D) to determine the coastal response and inundation depths due to storms enables the framework to accurately estimate the morphological response (Roelvink et al., 2009). However, it also imposes steep computational time requirements when conducting scenario analysis which call for numerous XBeach simulations (~2100 simulation runs for a single scenario of 50-year time frame). Additionally, the implementation of XBeach requires broad knowledge of coastal processes and modeling skills which constrains the potential user community. To overcome this challenge, a Bayesian network (BN) was created to act as a surrogate for XBeach simulations in the framework. This study describes the surrogate storm impact estimation BN and demonstrates its integration to the framework through a scenario analysis study.
VEGETATED FORESHORES AS COASTAL PROTECTION STRATEGY: COPING WITH UNCERTAINTIES AND IMPLEMENTATION
Authors: Borsje Bas , Willemsen Pim , Hulscher Suzanne
Published: February 2019

Worldwide, hard structures are used as coastal protection measure. These structures are static and do not respond to the changing climate like sea level rise and increasing storminess. Moreover, the energy released during extreme events is hardly dissipated, resulting in enormous losses and damage. Recently, the use of soft solutions in front of hard structures is more and more proposed â€“ but not applied â€“ as sustainable coastal protection measure. These measures allow for economic growth in coastal regions, which are the worldâ€™s most valuable areas. Promising Building with Nature solutions for flood protection, such as vegetated foreshores, inherently have a dynamic nature. Therefore there is a relatively large degree of uncertainty with respect to their contribution to flood protection. This hampers innovation and the implementation of vegetated foreshores in flood risk management worldwide.
ESTIMATING GLOBAL SEA LEVEL VARIATIONS AND RESULTING INUNDATION EXPOSURE
Authors: Demirci Ebru , Young Ian
Published: February 2019

Concerns about climate change highlights the needs to understand extreme sea levels and the resulting flood exposure in coastal areas on a global scale. The combined impacts of storm surge, tide, breaking wave setup and potential sea level rise will pose many economic, societal and engineering challenges in coming years. In order to predict the global coastal flood risk, a global sea level dataset of sufficiently long duration is required to undertake extreme value analysis. This presentation will outline the development and application of such a dataset.
DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION OF A LIVING SHORELINE PROJECT ALONG THE GULF COAST
Authors: Mears Wendell , Henderson Matthew , Mohan Ram , Robertson Renee
Published: February 2019

The Hancock County Marsh Living Shoreline Project (project) was developed as an NRDA Early Restoration project. NRDA Early Restoration projects are intended to accelerate meaningful restoration of injured natural resources, and their services, resulting from the Deepwater Horizon oil spill. The Mississippi Department of Environmental Quality and National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (the federal and co-implementing trustee) worked cooperatively to develop a project along the Hancock County, Mississippi, shoreline. This project would partially offset injuries by preserving and protecting existing marsh and providing for increased secondary productivity. Currently, it is the largest restoration project to be designed and constructed in Mississippi.
A SOLUTIONS APPRAISAL TOOL TO ADDRESS THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS OF TIDAL LAGOONS
Authors: Mackinnon Kathryn , Smith Helen C.M , Moore Francesca , Van Der Weijde Harry , Lazakis Iraklis
Published: February 2019

The deployment of renewable energy is regarded as a strategy to combat climate change. There have been a number of global agreements aiming to mitigate climate change, the most recent of which was the 2015 Paris Agreement. Often overlooked is the vast amount of marine renewable energy available around the worldâ€™s coastlines. In particular tidal range energy is a largely untapped resource which has benefits including reduced uncertainty through use of proven technology, a high level of predictability, the ability to phase shift energy to provide base load supply and a long expected life span (100 years). The key barriers to development of tidal range energy have been environmental concerns and high capital cost. Tidal lagoons are often presented as environmentally friendly alternatives to tidal barrages, but this does not mean their environmental impacts can be overlooked. Recent developments in the UK lagoon industry such as the awarding of a Development Consent Order to Swansea Bay tidal lagoon, mean it is now more important than ever to consider the environmental impacts of tidal lagoons and what solutions are available to address them. This is challenging considering there are no operational tidal lagoons in the world yet. This study aims to: 1. Identify the key impacts through industry engagement 2. Find available solutions through systematic review 3. Select and analyze solutions using Multi Criteria Decision Analysis (MCDA), Cost Benefit Analysis (CBA) and Ecosystem Service Valuation (ESV).
ANALYZING FLOW ENERGY POTENTIAL OF THE BOSPHORUS STRAIT
Authors: Ã–zturk Mehmet , Sahin Cihan , Yuksel Yalcin
Published: February 2019

Ocean currents represent a potentially notable, currently untapped, reservoir of energy. The regions with strong current velocities such as narrow straits connecting two water bodies exhibit high current energy (power) potential especially where the water depths are relatively shallow (EECA, 2009). The Bosphorus, connecting the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara, is a typical narrow sea strait that generally exhibits a two-layered flow pattern: the upper layer current flows south towards the Sea of Marmara while the underlying current flows in opposite direction towards the Black Sea (YÃ¼ksel et al., 2008). The predominant mechanisms for the upper and lower layer flows are the higher water level of the Black Sea and the denser water of the Sea of Marmara, respectively.
RESILIENT COMMUNITIES: A VULNERABILTIY ASSESSMENT IS ONLY STEP ONE
Authors: Ewing Lesley C. , Grifman Phyllis
Published: February 2019

Sea level is rising and climate scientists project a rapid increase in the rise in sea level resulting from current greenhouse gas emissions and latent buildup of atmospheric carbon dioxide. Coastal cities are rapidly coming to grips with the possibility that much of their critical facilities, infrastructure, housing and cultural and environmental assets will need to adapt to changing coastal conditions in the coming years and decades. Increasing sea level will exacerbate most of the coastal hazards that already plague coastal communities â€“ beach and bluff erosion, flooding, inundation, wave impacts, rising groundwater, saltwater intrusion and other water-related hazards.. Discussions of resilience can provide a framework to help coastal communities examine and evaluate options for minimizing the consequence of the risks. Broadly speaking, resilience covers both efforts to minimize the extent of damage to a coastal community that results from a hazard event and ways that the community responds to damages and restored community functions. As defined by the US Army Corps of Engineers (the Corps), resilience includes preparation, protection, recovery, and adaptation. In California, coastal communities are in various stages of vulnerability assessment development and adaptation planning (For example, Regional AdaptLA, USC Sea Grant, 2015). Numerous tools and studies are being developed to assist with the planning efforts. However, few communities have enacted steps beyond planning. The Coastal Community Hazard Protection Resilience Index (CCHPR Index) is a tool that helps communities evaluate adaptation options in the context of their economic, environmental and social/cultural expectations for the coast. Since development of the CCHPR Index (Ewing 2015), it has been applied to several coastal communities.
A DESIGN LIFE BASED APPROACH TO MULTI-HAZARD RISK ANALYSIS
Authors: Keen Adam S. , Lynett Patrick J.
Published: February 2019

Small craft harbors are important facets to many coastal communities providing a transition from land to ocean. Because of the damage resulting from the 2010 Chile and 2011 Japanese tele-tsunamis, the tsunami risk to the small craft harbors in California has become an important concern. However, tsunamis represent only one of many hazards a harbor is likely to see in California. Other natural hazards including wave attack, wind events, storm surge and sea level rise all can damage a harbor but are not typically addressed collectively in traditional risk studies. Existing approaches to assess small craft harbor vulnerably typically look at single events assigning likely damage levels to each event. However, a harbor will likely experience damage from several different types of hazards over its service life with each event contributing proportionally to the total damage state. The approach presented here will consider the how the damage from many different natural phenomena is likely to be distributed during a harbors service life and how the cumulative effect of the events could contribute to failure potential of components within the harbor.
INTERCONNECTIVITIES BETWEEN HAZARD, DAMAGE, AND SHORELINE TYPE: LESSONS LEARNED FROM HURRICANE IRMAâ€™S IMPACT ON THE FLORIDA KEYS
Authors: Tomiczek Tori , Webbmartin Brittany , Scyphers Steven , Oâ€™Donnell Kiera , Furman Kelsi
Published: February 2019

The 2017 Atlantic hurricane season had 17 named storms, 10 hurricanes, and 6 major hurricanes, generating over 226 units of accumulated cyclone energy (ACE), a measure used by the National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Association (NOAA) that refers to the combined the intensity and duration of a hurricane. These statistics earned the hurricane seasonâ€™s classification as â€œextremely active,â€ the most active since 2005. Preliminary estimates of damage due to Hurricanes Harvey, Irma, and Maria amount to over $200 billion dollars in the United States alone. Recent studies suggest that the frequency of these high intensity Category 4 and 5 hurricanes is increasing (e.g. Mendelsohn et al., 2012). The 2017 hurricane season may thus be representative of an expected season. Accounting for projected increases in mean sea level, storm impacts may be exacerbated in coastal regions. These trends emphasize the need for effective damage mitigation techniques that improve the robustness and resiliency of coastal communities. Structures must be designed to not only avoid wave and surge loads, but also resist these forces in the event of a wave impact. Furthermore, creative, cost-effective solutions are required to mitigate waves and surge before they reach developed coastal areas. Thus, engineers require a robust, science-based methodology for predicting details of wave propagation over land and inland effects to ensure life safety and reduce economic loss due to extreme events. While traditional engineering strategies (e.g. seawalls, bulkheads) have been used to prevent coastal erosion and mitigate inland effects of hurricane waves and surge, recent storm events have shown potential of nature and natural based features (e.g. dune vegetation, mangroves, wetlands, salt-marshes, coral reefs, and seagrass) to protect coastal structures during storm events.
COASTRR: COASTAL STORM RAPID RESPONSE MEASUREMENTS OF HURRICANE HARVEY IMPACT AND RECOVERY ON TWO TEXAS BARRIER ISLANDS
Authors: Figlus Jens , Anarde Katherine , Dellapenna Timothy , Bedient Philip
Published: February 2019

The COAstal STorm Rapid Response (COASTRR) system has been implemented to measure hydro-dynamic, morphodynamic, and sedimentary processes occurring along coastlines during storm impact and subsequent recovery. Relatively few measurements are available to evaluate the physical processes shaping coastal systems during extreme storm events, nor to assess post-storm system recovery (e.g. Sherwood et al., 2014). Prior to landfall of Hurricane Harvey, instruments to collect high-resolution in-situ hydrodynamic measure-ments across two different barrier island transects on the upper Texas Gulf Coast were deployed before and recovered after the storm. Hurricane Harvey struck the central Texas Gulf Coast as a Category 4 storm on August 25, 2017 causing severe infrastructure damage and erosion near its landfall location but generating mostly accretional features at the two field sites on Hog Island and Follets Island, respectively, which were located more than 160 miles northeast of Harveyâ€™s landfall location.
MARINE MODELLING IN SUPPORT OF KOOLAN ISLAND MINE RECOMMENCEMENT AND EVENTUAL DECOMMISSIONING
Authors: Driscoll Andrew M. , Antenucci Jason P. , Schmied Lauren D. , Bhautoo Prema S. , Collie Troy
Published: February 2019

Koolan Island is located in a remote macrotidal (9m mean spring range) area of the Buccaneer Archipelago of NW Australia. High-quality hematite has been mined from the island since the 1940s, with direct export by ore carriers from a dedicated marine terminal. Mining in recent decades has focused on an open pit immediately adjacent to the ocean. The initial operator decommissioned the site in 1993, at which time a channel connecting the pit to the sea was excavated, the pit was flooded and a productive marine ecosystem developed within the photic zone of the former mine. The site was subsequently acquired by Mt. Gibson Iron, which drained the pit in 2007 and constructed a protective seawall to facilitate additional ore extraction through the extension of the pit both in depth as well as closer to the historical shoreline. A catastrophic failure of a section of the seawall in 2014 re-flooded the pit, which resulted in no injuries as the site was successfully evacuated in response to instrumented movements in the seawall structure. Construction of a strengthened seawall has recently been completed, and pit dewatering activities will be initiated during the week of the ICCE conference to enable in-Pit mining activities to recommence by the end of 2018. The presentation will present a summary of the unique history of the site, as well as supporting numerical modelling performed to describe a) the complex regional and local macrotidal dynamics, b) sediment spillage in connection with the reconstruction of the seawall following the 2014 failure, and c) coupled 2D/1D model calculations optimizing channel geometry to ensure adequate flushing of the pit following its eventual re-flooding in connection with final decommissioning.
WORKING THROUGH STATE DIFFERENCES TO CREATE A REGIONAL DREDGED MATERIAL MANAGEMENT PLAN FOR FEDERAL HARBORS IN LONG ISLAND SOUND
Authors: Habel Mark , Quinn Meghan
Published: February 2019

On January 11, 2016 the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) New England District (NAE) completed a Final Dredged Material Management Plan (DMMP) for Long Island Sound (LIS). The DMMP was requested by the Governors of Connecticut and New York, in their letter of February 8, 2005 to the Chief of Engineers, following the U.S. Environmental Protection Agencyâ€™s (EPA) publication in April 2004 of the Long Island Sound Dredged Material Disposal Site Designation Study Final Environmental Impact Statement. The LIS is a large coastal estuary located between Long Island, New York on the south, and the shores of New York, Connecticut and southwestern Rhode Island on the north. A total of nearly 240 harbors, coves, bays and rivers supporting various levels of navigational access are located along these shores. Twelve Congressional districts and 112 municipalities border the Sound and its adjacent waters in the three states. The ideals, goals, and needs along the LIS do not always align and thus the need for open communication throughout each dredging project.
HURRICANE MARIE AND THE PORT OF LONG BEACH, CALIFORNIA, USA
Authors: Mesa Chuck , Wesley Matthew
Published: February 2019

This paper describes the performance of the Middle Breakwater at the Port of Long Beach, California, USA. On 27 August 2014, swell waves generated by Hurricane Marie, a category 5 storm, severely damaged the breakwater. This paper evaluates general breakwater characteristics, incident wave conditions, and a wave transformation analysis that identifies uniquely contributing factors to the structure damages.
SURROGATE MODELING OF STORM RESPONSE
Authors: Melby Jeffrey A. , Taflanidis Alex , Nadal-Caraballo Norberto , Gonzalez Victor , Diop Fatima
Published: February 2019

Surrogate models are yielding simple, fast and accurate storm response predictions. Surrogate modelling is being applied to compute regional response or compute thousands of realizations in seconds. These tools are useful for forecasting, scenario analysis and risk assessments. Approaches used for coastal application include artificial neural networks (ANN), Gaussian process regression (Kriging), and response surface techniques (e.g. Kim et al. 2015, Jia et al. 2013,). These previous approaches were limited to hurricane suites that were already optimally preconfigured using joint probability methods. The results were surprisingly effective in large part because the simulation suites were already optimized and the high dimensional parameter space was well correlated in time and space. The kriging method was applied for the study reported here to: 1) Optimize the parameter space and resulting selection of storms for high fidelity modelling, and 2) Construct surrogate models for both extratropical and tropical storm suites and for wave transformation as well as hurricane surge and other hurricane responses. The results were used for forecasting, scenario analysis, and risk assessments.
NATURAL DESIGN AND MANAGEMENT OF AN ESTUARY MOUTH SYSTEM
Authors: Canning Paul , Cox Richard
Published: February 2019

Estuaries often are the focus of both man-made infrastructure and valuable flora and fauna. Sand spits are common at the mouth of estuaries, and are one of the key features that influence hydrodynamics and geomorphology in estuaries. The Environment Agency has delivered a long term coastal management scheme, which has recently been designed and built, to manage the Dawlish Warren sand spit at the mouth of the Exe Estuary, in south Devon, UK. This scheme is designed to â€¢ Protect 3,000 properties and critical national infrastructure from flooding. â€¢ Restore 2km of internationally designated (SAC) dune and associated ecology continue protection to the SPA bird assemblages in the Exe Estuary. â€¢ Provide a flexible way forward through this century for the sand spit to be managed in a sustainable and balanced manner. The Exe Estuary is macrotidal with a range of 4m, and main tributary inflows of the order of 20-400m3/s. Dawlish Warren sand spit covers three quarters of the estuary mouth width, sheltering the estuary from the coastal wave and tide climate. Consequently, the inestuary extreme wave heights are limited to less than 1.1m, with storm surges of up to 1-2m. The estuary exhibits high tidal velocities through its mouth, with flood/ebb tidal deltas and offshore banks present. The sand spit has breached around 13 times over the last two centuries, prompting reactive construction of concrete, rock armour and
IMPROVING PREDICTIVE MODELLING OF COASTAL PROTECTION BY SALT MARSHES
Authors: Van Veelen Thomas J. , Karunarathna Harshinie , Fairchild Tom P. , Bennett William G. , Griffin John , Reeve Dominic E.
Published: February 2019

Salt marshes are vegetated tidal wetlands, which can typically be found at sheltered coastal areas in moderate climate zones. Their potential as natural coastal protection by wave attenuation (MÃ¶ller et al, 2014), reduction of flood-surge propagation (Stark et al., 2016) and shoreline stabilization (Bouma et al, 2014) has been increasingly recognized among scientists and engineers, but it comes with risks. Our understanding of the biogeomorphological dynamics between salt marsh vegetation, hydrodynamics and sediment is limited, while these are essential to identify the protective value of marshes to coastal protection (Wu et al., 2017). In this study, we present a predictive process-based model with a newly validated vegetation module to study the potential of salt marshes to contribute to coastal protection for a case study site in West Wales, United Kingdom.
CHALLENGES AND LESSONS LEARNED FROM COASTAL FLOOD RESILIENCE PLANNING IN VIRGINIA BEACH, VIRGINIA, USA
Authors: Batten Brian K. , Johnson Gregory , Davenport Shanda
Published: February 2019

Many U.S. coastal cities face the challenge of increasing flood frequency and magnitude due to a combination of increasing sea levels, changing rainfall, and aging infrastructure. Recurrent flooding, sometimes referred to as â€œnuisance floodingâ€, can be symptomatic of such issues. Responding to such impacts can either be tacked in a piece-meal, reactive fashion, or proactively. A number of cities, such as New York (SIRR, 2013) and Boston (City of Boston, 2016) have undertaken or are in the process of planning efforts to recognize such issues and develop strategies to reduce impacts. The flood resilient planning process can take many forms, we shall provide a case-study example overview of a bottom-up, risk-informed effort by the City of Virginia Beach, VA.
ASSESSMENT OF DAMAGE AND MITIGATION STRATEGIES FOR THE MISQUAMICUT, RI COASTAL COMMUNITY FROM A 100 YEAR STORM EVENT AND SEA LEVEL RISE
Authors: Schicho Jamie , Bianchi Christopher , Folkert Lauren , Knight Julie-Ann , Madison Hannah , Maroukis Mathew , Quinn Brendan , White Michael , Spaulding Malcolm , Baxter Christopher
Published: February 2019

Misquamicut is a coastal community located in Westerly, Rhode Island with a high density of structures that is at risk from inundation, wave, and wind damage from large storm events. The area has suffered significant damage from storms in the past such as the Hurricane of 1938, Hurricane Carol in 1954, and most recently, Superstorm Sandy in 2012. This area is also highly susceptible to sea level rise (SLR), which is predicted to be as high as 7 feet by the year 2100 (NOAA, 2017). A tool called the Coastal Environmental Risk Index (CERI) was used to estimate damage to structures located in Misquamicut due to a 100 year storm event with and without 7 feet of sea level rise. Using CERI, four mitigation strategies were evaluated to improve resiliency of the community: basement window plugs, dune restoration and reinforcement, a tide gate, and elevation of structures.
TSUNAMI CASUALTY ESTIMATION CONSIDERING INTENDED EVACUATION BEHAVIOR OF LOCAL RESIDENTS AND VISITORS
Authors: Takabatake Tomoyuki , Shibayama Tomoya , Miguel Esteban
Published: February 2019

Tsunamis could cause devastating damage to vast coastal areas. In order to understand tsunami hazards in a certain area, it is important to assess the potential casualties that can result from a given event. Although many studies related to tsunami casualty estimations exist, most of them have not taken detailed evacuation behavior of at-risk individuals into account. For instance, although people have been found to have a variety of triggers that can prompt them to evacuate (e.g. feeling earthquake shaking, seeing others evacuating), to the authorsâ€™ knowledge these effects have been ignored when conducting an estimation of the numbers of potential casualties. For some coastal areas, during a tsunami large number of visitors could be present, who have less knowledge about the locations of safe places. Nevertheless, there has also been little consideration regarding their presence and behavior. In this study, an advanced approach for estimating the number of tsunami casualties is presented and applied to Yuigahama Beach, Kamakura City, Japan, which has a high risk of tsunami and large number of tourists throughout the whole year.
INFLUENCE OF BEACH LENGTH ON THE DEVELOPMENT OF ESTUARINE DELTAS
Authors: Van Duy Dinh , Tanaka Hitoshi , Larson Magnus , Mitobe Yuta , Trung Viet Nguyen
Published: February 2019

Larson et al. (1987) proposed a closed-form solution to describe the development of river delta coastlines owing to sediment supply from the river. This solution is for a beach of infinite extent adjacent to the river mouth. However, in reality, the beach length is always finite due to the existence of man-made structures or headlands. It is, therefore, useful to derive a new analytical solution to gain a better understanding of beach behavior under the effect of boundaries.
EVOLUTION OF NOBIRU COAST AT DECADAL TO CENTENNIAL SCALES INCLUDING THE 2011 TSUNAMI IMPACT
Authors: Tanaka Hitoshi , Tinh Nguyen Xuan , Hoang Vo Cong
Published: February 2019

Nobiru Coast, which is 2.8 km long coast located in Miyagi Prefecture, Japan, is a well-known coast because of high sediment deposition rate (Figure 1). The predominant littoral drift of this coast is from east to west (Takahashi and Tanaka, 2005). The sediment deposit at the western end causes significant effect on the aquaculture in Matsushima Bay which is located on the right of Miyato Island, due to closure of a channel connecting open sea and Matsushima Bay. Tanaka et al. (2006) reported the sediment deposition rate on this coast from historical maps. The tsunami, which occurred on 11 March 2011, caused different types of damage on the left and right-hand sides of the coast. Accordingly, this study would evaluate the change of shoreline on Nobiru Coast at decadal to centennial scales including the 2011 tsunami impact using aerial and satellites images.
DYNAMIC RESIDUAL SEABED RESPONSE AROUND A MOVABLE PILE FOUNDATION
Authors: Sui Titi , Zhang Chi , Zheng Jinhai , Jeng Dong-Sheng
Published: February 2019

Wave-induced seabed soil response and its resultant liquefaction is common observed in a silt seabed with relative poor drainage condition, which poses a great threaten to the foundation safety of marine structures. Regarding the governing equations, three different approaches namely the Fully-dynamic (FD), Partialdynamic (PD) and Quasi-static (QS) model, have been used in the previous studies. Among these, both PD and FD approaches consider the effect of the inertial terms of soil skeleton/fluid. It has been reported in the literature that effects of the inertial terms on the seabed response could not be neglected, especially for the seabed around a movable structure (Ulker et al., 2010). However, these studies only focused on the oscillatory mechanism which are probably seen in a sandy seabed with high permeability. Recently, Zhao et al. (2017) investigated the residual soil response around a pile foundation by integrating a RANS wave model and a QS seabed model. In their study, the inertial terms of soil skeleton and pore water were neglected. To the authorsâ€™ best knowledge, up to now, effects of the inertial terms on the residual response of a silt seabed have not been investigated.
STUDY ON ESTIMATION OF SCOURING BEHIND THE BREAKWATER
Authors: Suzuki Kohei , Seki Katsumi , Arikawa Taro
Published: February 2019

For realization of tenacious structure, it is significant to investigate the influence of scouring behind the seawall due to tsunami overflow. Although studies have been made on the estimation of maximum scour depth, there is few studies on the relationship between overflow time and scour depth.
THE RELATIVE CONTRIBUTION OF SEA LEVEL RISE AND STORM EROSION TO LONG TERM NET COASTLINE RECESSION
Authors: Ranasinghe Roshanka L.-F. , Wainwright David , Callaghan Dave , Duong Trang
Published: February 2019

The potential Climate change (CC) impacts on coasts and associated socio-economic and environmental risks are widely recognised internationally. One of the most talked about CC impacts is coastline recession. Any increase in mean sea level is expected to result in an upward and landward shift of the entire active profile causing net coastline recession (Bruun, 1962). Another phenomenon that can result in net coastline recession is the cumulative effect of storm erosion. This is due to the hysteresis effect in the storm erosion/dune recovery cycle (Ranasinghe et al., 2012). But what causes more recession: storms or sea level rise? This is a commonly asked question, to which science-backed answers have not been presented to date. This paper addresses this question via the application of a physics based, probabilistic numerical model at a typical swell and storm beaches located in SE Australia and The Netherlands, respectively.
OBSERVATIONS OF HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL SEDIMENT FLUXES ON A SANDBAR IN THE SUSPENDED AND SHEET FLOW LAYERS
Authors: Mieras Ryan S. , Puleo Jack A. , Anderson Dylan , Cox Daniel T. , Hsu Tian-Jian , Calantoni Joe
Published: February 2019

The majority of prior sandbar migration studies have been conducted from the morphological standpoint, whereby, (i) bathymetric profiles are recorded over periods of time ranging from days to decades, at frequencies ranging from hourly to yearly (Ruessink et al., 2003), and (ii) hydrodynamic observations typically consist of far-field wave and environmental conditions. Subsequent modeling efforts have generally focused on tuning parameters in the sediment transport formulations (suspended load and bed load) to maximize model skill in predicting observed beach profiles over time (FernÃ¡ndez-Mora et al., 2015; Hoefel and Elgar, 2003). However, little emphasis at the operational level has been placed on tuning coastal morphology models to the true relative contributions of the physical processes (e.g. suspended load, bed load and/or sheet flow) that drive the changing bathymetry. This is due, in part, to the lack of detailed sediment transport observations (field and lab) under realistic wave forcing conditions and spatially variable bathymetry. Such a modeling approach leads to the improper quantification (magnitude and/or direction) of each modeled sediment transport component under skewed-asymmetric and/or breaking waves, often observed in the surf zone. The present study aims to better understand the physical mechanisms responsible for driving cross-shore sediment transport over a sandbar by quantifying (a) the vertical exchange of sediment at the near-bed interface (i.e. pick-up layer), and (b) intra-wave horizontal sediment fluxes in the suspended load and sheet layers.
A COMPREHENSIVE ANALYSIS OF MEASURED AND COMPUTED DEPTH OF CLOSURE AROUND THE COAST OF JAPAN
Authors: Udo Keiko , Takeda Yuriko , Ranasinghe Roshanka
Published: February 2019

The Depth of closure (DoC), i.e., the depth seaward of which significant sediment transport and consequent elevation changes do not occur, is one of the most important parameters in coastal morphodynamics. The concept is widely used for estimating sediment budgets, numerical models of coastal change, beach nourishment design and disposal of dredged material. With recent interest on climate change impact assessments on coasts, the Bruun (1962) rule, in which DoC is a key parameter, is often used for future beach loss analysis (e.g., Udo and Takeda, 2017); However, the determination of DoC, especially in the absence of repeated profile measurements, is one of the controversial issues in employing the Bruun rule for such impact assessments for decision making (e.g., Ranasinghe et al., 2012).
BASIN-SCALE MODEL FOR PREDICTING MARSH EDGE EROSION
Authors: Jafari Navid H. , Chen Qin J. , Couvillion Brady , Johnson Cody , Everett Thomas
Published: February 2019

Recent attempts to relate marsh edge retreat rate to wave power have met varying levels of success. Schwimmer (2001) correlated wave power to marsh boundary retreat rates over a five-year period along sites within Rehoboth Bay, Delaware, USA. Marani et al. (2011) derived a linear relationship between volumetric retreat rate and mean wave power density using Buckinghamâ€™s theorem of dimensional analysis. Leonardi and Fagherazzi (2015) added an exponential function to the Schwimmer (2001) equation to account for variability in soil resistance and mean wave height. These equations factor in soil type, water elevation, vegetation, and macrofauna through field-calibrated empirical constants, i.e., they are not explicitly considered. Consequently, the existing capability of predicting marsh edge erosion rate as a function of wave power and soil and vegetation properties is rather limited for engineering applications. For instance, Allison et al. (2017) show that without taking the marsh platform, soil, and vegetation into account, the relationships between marsh edge erosion rates and wave power on a basin or coastal-wide scale are not strong enough statistically to serve as a useful predictive model. The objective of this study is to develop a more robust marsh edge erosion model by characterizing the shear strength, wave power, and retreat rates in Terrebonne Bay, Louisiana.
MEDIUM-TERM VARIATION OF BAR MOVEMENT AND ITS LINKAGE TO WAVE CLIMATE
Authors: Rathnayaka Dilan , Kuriyama Yoshiaki , Tajima Yoshimitsu
Published: February 2019

Longshore bars are a common site in sandy beaches which is influential on currents, morphology variation and the marine eco system. Longshore bar reacts to the variation of environmental factors and wave properties like wave height, water depth, wave period, wave skewness and it tends to move seaward or shoreward while changing its amplitude. According to Lippmann and Holman, (1990) short term bar migration has been triggered when the wave height or the wave height to water depth ratio are large. Elgar et al. (2001) has shown that short term seaward bar migration was caused by velocity skewness, undertow velocity and acceleration skewness. Influence of the wave breaking on the seaward bar migration has been identified as minimum according to Sallenger and Howd (1989).
SEDIMENT TRANSPORT AND SHORELINE RESPONSE TO NEARSHORE PLACEMENT OF DREDGED SEDIMENT IN SOUTHERN LAKE MICHIGAN, USA
Authors: McFall Brian C. , Li Honghai , Arnold David , Brutsché Katherine E. , Bucaro David , Maloney Erin
Published: February 2019

Shoreline erosion downdrift of littoral barriers, such as harbor breakwaters, is a universal concern. The beneficial use of dredged sediment through placement in the nearshore downdrift of littoral barriers is common place, but key questions about the sediment transport and shoreline response remain challenging. To that end, the shoreline at Ogden Dunes, Indiana, along the southern shores of Lake Michigan is investigated with historical aerial photographs, nearshore placement records, hydrodynamic and bathymetric field data, and numerical models.
EVALUATION OF SHORELINE STABILIZATION USING A HYBRID SHORELINE MORPHOLOGY MODEL
Authors: Kabiling Michael B. , Trudnak Michael E. , Bouchard Richard
Published: February 2019

The Fort Pierce Shore Protection Project, located in St. Lucie County, Florida, nourishes a 2.09-km Atlantic Ocean shoreline south of Fort Pierce Inlet on Floridaâ€™s east coast. After each beach nourishment, historical measurements indicate the beach fill erodes nonuniformly, with a hotspot along the northernmost 0.7 km requiring nourishment after about two years of normal wave regimes. However, storms can quickly erode the beach fill and require nourishment earlier than the normal two-year interval. Longshore transport carries most of the eroded fill to the south, creating a strong feeder-beach effect. This study evaluated several designs and combinations of coastal structures to produce more uniform erosion throughout the project area and to increase the nourishment interval. The study applied several state-of-the-art numerical models to evaluate the two-dimensional effect of a â€œcoastal structuresâ€ alternative on hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport, and beach morphology.
DIFFUSION OF A MEGA FEEDER NOURISHMENT - ASSESSING 5 YEARS OF SAND ENGINE SPREADING
Authors: De Vries Sierd , De Schipper Matthieu , Roest Bart , Luijendijk Arjen , Aarninkhof Stefan
Published: February 2019

Feeder nourishments, where sand quantities of O (10 million m3) are placed locally to feed adjacent coastal stretches, are suggested nowadays as an alternative for local, smaller-scale nourishments (< 1 million m3). These feeder nourishments rely on natural forces to spread the sediment. While processes that govern this spreading such as tidal flows, waves and wind are well known, the quantification of associated sediment transport processes remains a scientific challenge. Due to the lack of knowledge with respect to sediment spreading, no tools exist to optimize the design of feeder nourishments. The Sand Engine project that is implemented in the Netherlands in 2011 consists of 21.5 million m3 of nourished sediment, and is the largest existing feeder nourishment (Stive et al., 2013). In this paper the morphological development of the Sand Engine mega feeder nourishment and the adjacent coastal sections is presented. The alongshore extent of the analysis is 17 km and spans a coastal cell between 2 harbor entrances.
TEMPERATURE VARIATIONS IN MIXED-SAND-GRAVEL SEDIMENTS AT A STEEP, MEGA-TIDAL BEACH
Authors: Tavakoli Arash , Stark Nina , Hay Alex E.
Published: February 2019

The increasing urbanization of coastal regions makes beach erosion and coastline protection an important field of research (Elko et al., 2014). Excess pore pressures and pore pressure gradients in the soil matrix can impact sediment mobilization and erosion in terms of liquefaction (Sumer, 2014). Despite previous studies, there are still unsolved questions regarding coastal liquefaction due to wave action. Particularly, the role of groundwater dynamics, the impact of wave breaking, sediment reorganization, and potential air content represent unsolved problems. Furthermore, open questions still exist regarding the interaction and roles of excess pore pressure built-up, vertical pressure gradients and horizontal pressure gradients (Foster et al., 2006; Yeh and Mason, 2014; Sumer, 2014; Stark, 2017). We hypothesize that temperature variations may reveal complementary information with regard to pore water fluid behavior, such as pore space saturation, groundwater flows, exfiltration and infiltration processes, and impact of wave forcing. The study presented here shows some preliminary data sets of combined pore pressure and temperature recordings.
SHORELINE RESPONSE TO FUTURE SEA LEVEL RISE
Authors: Houston James
Published: February 2019

Florida, United States, has shoreline change measurements starting in the 1800s with spacing of about every 300 m. In addition, due to extensive shoreline development and tourism, processes causing shoreline change have been studied extensively. The 1160-km east and 275-km southwest shorelines advanced seaward on average from the 1800s even before widespread beach nourishment and despite sea level rise. Shoreline advance despite sea level rise has been noted along other coasts such as the Netherlands central coast (Stive and de Vriend, 1995). In contrast, the 335-km Florida west coast retreated landward on average almost 30 m from 1867 to 2015.
MODELLING RAPID COASTAL CATCH-UP AFTER DEFENCE REMOVAL ALONG THE SOFT CLIFF COAST OF HAPPISBURGH, UK
Authors: Payo Andres , Walkden Mike J.A.
Published: February 2019

There are currently no well-established methods of predicting coastal catch-up, i.e. the response of shores to the removal of existing coast protection. Such estimates are vital to inform decisions around the renewal of such structures. At a deeper level, the lack of predictive methods undermines progress towards more sustainable approaches to coastal management, and the implementation of policies of managed realignment. Some progress has been made in recent years using the SCAPE numerical modelling tool (e.g. Walkden et al, 2015). That study demonstrated coastal response that included retreat beyond the position the shore would have been expected to reach in the absence of coast protection (i.e. coast protection apparently causing a net loss of land). That study raised important questions, but was limited in the respect that it represented the coast in two-dimensions (i.e. without alongshore interactions). In this work we illustrate how the novel Coastal Modelling Environment (CoastalME, Payo et al. 2017) is able to reproduce coastal catch-up at Happisburgh at the East coast of UK, and to do so with more physical realism than was possible with the SCAPE model, including accounting for alongshore variations).
THE EFFECT OF OBLIQUE SHOREFACE-CONNECTED RIDGES ON ALONGSHORE TRANSPORT AND SHORELINE CHANGE
Authors: Haas Kevin , Xu Tongtong
Published: February 2019

Shoreface-connected ridges (SFCR) are series of ridges and troughs obliquely oriented towards the shore in the inner-continental shelf. They exist sporadically from Long Island to Florida on the North American Atlantic Shelf with maximum expression on the Delmarva peninsula (Swift et al., 1978), including the western half of Fire Island, NY. The long-term historic shoreline record of Fire Island (e.g., Allen and LaBash, 1997) shows persistent undulations in shoreline shape at an alongshore scale similar to the alongshore scale of the ridges. These ridges and troughs are spaced approximately every 2 to 3 km in the alongshore and occupy a total length about 14 km in the cross-shore direction with an average crest to trough height of 2 m.
OBSERVATIONS OF SEDIMENT PARTICLE MOVEMENTS UNDER ACCRETIVE WAVE CONDITIONS
Authors: Suzuki Takayuki , Inami Yu , Yanagishima Shinichi , Sakihama Shuhei , Cox Daniel
Published: February 2019

From the aspect of beach management, understanding of sediment movement from the outer-surf zone to the swash zone during recovery duration is important. In this study, field observations were conducted during accretive wave conditions to investigate the sediment movement from the outer side of the bar to the swash zone using fluorescent sand tracers.
WAVE IMPACT AND DUNE EROSION DURING HURRICANE MATTHEW
Authors: Raubenheimer Britt , Elgar Steve , Brodie Kate , Spore Nick , Gorrell Levi , Oâ€™Dea Annika
Published: February 2019

Extreme storms can cause rapid morphological changes that pose high risk to society (Sallenger 2000). Semiempirical and process-based models often are used to simulate storm-induced coastal processes (Roelvink et al. 2009, Palmsten & Holman 2012, Stockdon et al. 2014, Overbeck et al. 2017). However, there are few observations of surfzone waves and currents during extreme storms. Therefore, parameterizations often are calibrated by minimizing model-data errors for pre- to post-storm bathymetric and topographic changes, and the accuracy of the simulated processes during the storm is unknown. Here, surf, swash, and dune observations collected near Duck, NC, USA, will be used to investigate wave processes and dune erosion during the passage of recent (2015-2017) Hurricanes.
LONG-TERM DUNE EVOLUTION UNDER INTERACTING CROSS-SHORE AND LONGSHORE PROCESSES
Authors: Fredriksson Caroline , Huisman Bas , Larson Magnus , Hanson Hans
Published: February 2019

Coastal dunes play an important role in flood protection and erosion mitigation along sandy coasts. Still, few models are available that predict long-term dune evolution. Dune processes are typically modeled at shorter time scales, focusing on storm impact. Meanwhile, long-term coastline evolution models typically ignore exchange of sediment between the beach and the dune. Instead, these models often consider a fixed profile that moves seaward or landward if gradients in the longshore transport are negative or positive, respectively. Nevertheless, it is evident from field studies and morphological models that longshore transport gradients provide a relevant contribution to both beach and dune evolution (Psuty, 1988), and that the dune and the beach respond to sediment budget changes at different time scales (Stive et al., 2002). As a step towards bridging the gap between nearshore, beach, and dune modelling, this study investigates the interaction between longshore transport gradients and the beach and dune evolution on decadal time scales. This aim is addressed by combining an analysis of a 22- year long data set at IJmuiden (The Netherlands; see Figure 1) with simulations using a semi-empirical crossshore model, the CS-model (Larson et al., 2016).
STORM-INDUCED EROSION OF NOTSUKEZAKI SAND SPIT, JAPAN
Authors: Itori Seiya , Yagisawa Kazuki , Sasaki Takayuki , Yamaguchi Ryo , Kobayashi Nobuhisa
Published: February 2019

The hook-shaped sand spit at Notsukezaki is the longest (26 km) spit in Japan. The spit is located down-drift of the Shibetzu River. Beach erosion became severe in the 1960s after the construction of the Shibetsu Port updrift of the sand spit. The breakwater of the port intercepted longshore sediment transport. The deposited sediment up to 20,000 m3 has been dredged every year. The dredged sediment has been placed on Sections I and II on the spit. In addition, 39 groins of 35 m length were constructed from 1995 to 2015 in order to protect fishing facilities on the spit.
PREDICTION OF SHORELINE CHANGES FOR DIFFERENT COASTAL CONFIGURATIONS USING FUTURE CLIMATE PROJECTIONS
Authors: Rajasree B R , Deo M C
Published: February 2019

The estimation of shoreline change as well as sediment transport at a specified site can be reliably made with the help of corresponding numerical models that are run with the help of historical wave data generated using windwave models based on the input of past wind conditions. It is well known that the magnitude and behavior of historical wind and waves would not remain same in future as a result of the climate change induced by global warming. (Komar et al., 2010). In this light the present study attempts to understand what happens if future wind and waves are generated using regional climate models (RCMs) and the shoreline change and sediment transport is determined on that basis instead of historical wind and wave data. Toward this we have considered there different types of shorelines, namely (a) an uninterrupted coastal stretch, (b) the coast interrupted by an artificial structure and (c) the coast interrupted by natural features. This study goes beyond an earlier one (Rajasree et al., 2016) in which only case (a) was discussed and where coastal vulnerability was not assessed.