bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Technology Education in Early Childhood
Authors: Daniel-Gittens Kathy-ann
Published: April 2016

Technology in early education emerged as a discrete research area following the publication of Seymour Papert’s 1980 seminal text, Mindstorms: Children, Computers and Powerful Ideas. In this work, Papert encouraged the idea that computers should be used as creative tools to spark children’s imaginations and drive their cognitive development. Notably, he made a distinction between computers and older technologies such as television and radio. There are several researchers who have continued this line of inquiry, focusing their investigative work exclusively on computer technology use by very young children; specifically the age group birth–eight years. This research area has not developed as quickly as the study of technology use among older children and adolescents, however. One reason for this has been ethical conflicts expressed by educational and pediatric researchers who question the benefits and dangers of integrating technology into the education of children this young. Despite a slow start, there has been an accumulating body of work led by researchers and child-focused agencies that believe there should be research-based evidence to guide technology education practices for very young learners. Researchers such as Douglas Clements with his 1999 publication “Young Children and Technology” have been influential in this field. Susan Haugland has also been a pioneer with her 1999 and 2000 publications in which she asked—and answered—What Role Should Technology Play in Young Children’s Learning? Currently, a rapidly increasing array of Internet-connected computer devices such as tablets, smartphones and technology-enabled toys and games are being marketed for young learners. Because this trend is expected to grow, issues of how educators and parents can integrate these technology devices into young children’s lives and education, in productive ways, become even more significant. The headings for this topic are derived from a consideration of how technology is currently used in early education as well as critical issues that surround its use. The headings include topics such as Games and Play, the evaluation of technology, Teachers’ Professional Development, and Accessibility Issues for learners with disabilities. The citations selected represent the most influential writings and researchers as well as the most recent research on the topics. Included also are citations that survey the status of the field internationally and outlying research studies that appear to confound established thinking in the topic area. Large-scale research studies by child-focused agencies are also included.
Derivational Morphology
Authors: Lieber Rochelle
Published: April 2016

Derivational morphology is concerned with forming new lexemes, that is, words that differ either in syntactic category (part of speech) or in meaning from their bases. Derivation is typically contrasted with inflection, which is the modification of words to fit into different grammatical contexts. Words formed by derivation are complex in the sense that they typically have a base or root that has been modified in some systematic way to form a new word. The most widespread of techniques for derivation is affixation, the addition of prefixes, suffixes, infixes, circumfixes, and so on, but new words are often formed by other means such as reduplication, internal modification or rearrangement of consonants and vowels, or by subtraction of segments. Languages frequently have means of derivation that form agents, patients, or locations from verbs or other syntactic categories, or verbs of various sorts from nouns or adjectives. Adjectives may be formed from either nouns or verbs. Words may also undergo derivation that does not change their category but rather modifies their meaning, maintaining category. So, adjectives, nouns, or verbs may be negated, concrete nouns can be made abstracts or collectives, verbs may be made transitive or causative. Most general reference works on morphology treat derivation alongside inflection, so the reader is referred for additional resources to the Oxford Bibliographies in Linguistics article Morphology.
Argentine Cinema
Authors: Stites Mor Jessica , Poppe Nicolas
Published: April 2016

The field of Argentine cinema studies can be said to have begun in earnest with the publication of film journalist Domingo Di Núbila’s landmark two-volume history of Argentina’s film history in 1959 and 1960, Historia del cine argentino (Buenos Aires, Argentina: Cruz de Malta). A work of tremendous range and scope, Di Núbila’s history not only provided a synopsis and critique of an abundance of individual films but also examined the influence of professional associations and industry, more broadly speaking. Perhaps due to the comprehensiveness of these volumes, minimal scholarly publishing on Argentine cinema followed until the 1970s, when interest in political cinema propelled Argentine cinema into the global spotlight. Scholarly writing about Argentine film in Europe, the United States, and, to a certain extent, Cuba during this period of heightened Cold War tensions tended to focus on questions of the political and the techniques of radical cinema. Writers from outside Argentina focused predominantly on films being made contemporaneously that engaged questions of colonialism, violence, social movements, and revolution. However, by the late 1970s and early 1980s, filmmakers themselves took on the task of building a new media studies that centered on Latin American cinema with interests in questions of industry, cultural imperialism, and consumption at the core of their inquiry. By the 1980s and early 1990s, growing interest in Argentine filmmaking among academic audiences both at home and abroad culminated in the emergence of a local film studies culture in Argentina that was finally dominated by scholars rather than biographers or filmmakers. This wave of scholarship converged around questions related to the 1976–1983 dictatorship and the subsequent democratic opening. Since 2001, a new wave of interest in Argentine film following the financial crisis has pushed scholarship beyond political questions to engage more seriously with aesthetic and conceptual aspects of national films. However, booming grassroots documentary production in the new digital era captured the interest of nontraditional film scholars interested in media politics, social movements, gender and sexuality, and film as a mode of communication more broadly.
Vatican and the Holy See
Authors: Ruda Santolaria Juan José
Published: April 2016

The Holy See is the supreme governmental organ of the Catholic Church, representing it in the international arena. The subject of international law, for some, is the Church, while for others it is the Holy See itself. Beyond this discussion, one can verify an international performance of the latter that comprises the exercise of the right of passive and active legation, the participation as a member or as an observer in different international organizations, the celebration of bilateral (concordats or agreements of that nature) and multilateral treaties, as well as its role in the peaceful solution of international controversies. Said performance dates back several centuries, and has been ongoing in an uninterrupted manner, even during the times in which the Holy See has been deprived of a piece of territory under its sovereignty, such as, for example, during the time period between 1870 and 1929. On the other hand, in virtue of the Lateran Treaty of 1929 between the Holy See and Italy, the latter recognizes the sovereignty and ownership of the former over Vatican City, an area of 44 hectares embedded in Rome and which serves as a guarantee of liberty and independence of the Holy See. The majority opinion is that it is a State which, in its own unique way, gathers the presupposed requirements of said condition, with its own international legal personality. In spite of this, it acts internationally through the Secretariat of State of the Holy See, even though there are some treaties and international organizations to which it is, respectively, in and of itself a party of or a member of as such, in other words, as the Vatican City State. Finally, there is discussion as to whether there is only one subject of international law or if there are two subjects of international law. The more widespread criterion is the latter one, even though opinions are divided between those who propose that said subjects are the Roman Catholic Church and the Vatican State on the one hand, and those who sustain that this condition falls on the Holy See and the Vatican State on the other. At the same time, various appreciations in regards to the relationship between these two subjects have been given, in the sense that it can be defined as a personal union, a real union, or a vassal relationship of the Vatican State to the Holy See.
Amoeboma in a Saudi resident: a case report
Authors: Al Rehily Sanaa , Kaki Reham , Al Ghamdi Fahad , El-Hossary Dalia
Published: April 2016

Introduction:

Amoebiasis is the third most frequent cause of mortality after malaria and schistosomiasis. In developed countries, amebiasis is also seen in migrants who have travelled to endemic areas. The factors responsible for its progression from intestinal amebiasis to an amebic liver abscess are not fully understood.

Case presentation:

A 54-year-old man presented with abdominal pain, fever and diarrhoea. Laparotomy confirmed an inflammatory mass involving the right colon, and he underwent a right hemicolectomy. He later developed abdominal distenstion due to an amoebic liver abscess and died from secondary nosocomial bacterial infection and surgical complications.

Conclusion:

Amoeboma is an uncommon manifestation of amoebiasis, and can mimic both carcinoma and inflammatory bowel disease; so, distinguishing between these two conditions is the key to providing appropriate therapy. Hepatic amoebiasis is the most common extraintestinal disease of invasive amoebiasis. This clinical report presents a case of an uncommon parasitic disease in Saudi Arabia and discusses the difficulties encountered while attempting to establish the correct diagnosis. Hence, a high index of suspicion is crucial for diagnosing Entamoeba histolytica to avoid unnecessary surgery and further complications.
MOGSA: integrative single sample gene-set analysis of multiple omics data
Authors: Meng Chen , Basunia Azfar , Peters Bjoern , Gholami Amin Moghaddas , Kuster Bernhard , Culhane Aedín C
Published: April 2016

Gene set analysis (GSA) summarizes individual molecular measurements to more interpretable pathways or gene sets and has become an indispensable step in the interpretation of large scale omics data. However, GSA methods are limited to the analysis of single omics data. Here, we introduce a new computation method termed multi-omics gene set analysis (MOGSA), a multivariate single sample gene-set analysis method that integrates multiple experimental and molecular data types measured over the same set of samples. The method learns a low dimensional representation of most variant correlated features (genes, proteins, etc.) across multiple omics data sets, transforms the features onto the same scale and calculates an integrated gene set score from the most informative features in each data type. MOGSA does not require filtering data to the intersection of features (gene IDs), therefore, all molecular features, including those that lack annotation may be included in the analysis. We demonstrate that integrating multiple diverse sources of molecular data increases the power to discover subtle changes in gene-sets and may reduce the impact of unreliable information in any single data type. Using simulated data, we show that integrative analysis with MOGSA outperforms other single sample GSA methods. We applied MOGSA to three studies with experimental data. First, we used NCI60 transcriptome and proteome data to demonstrate the benefit of removing a source of noise in the omics data. Second, we discovered similarities and differences in mRNA, protein and phosphorylation profiles of induced pluripotent and embryonic stem cell lines. We demonstrate how to assess the influence of each data type or feature to a MOGSA gene set score. Finally, we report that three molecular subtypes are robustly discovered when copy number variation and mRNA profiling data of 308 bladder cancers from The Cancer Genome Atlas are integrated using MOGSA. MOGSA is available in the Bioconductor R package “mogsa”.
The mediating role of customer satisfaction: evidence from the airline industry
Authors: Hussain Rahim
Published: April 2016

Purpose

This study examines the mediating effects of customer satisfaction in the context of the airline industry in the United Arab Emirates through three distinct models. The first model examines the impact of service quality on brand loyalty as mediated by customer satisfaction; the second model investigates the impact of corporate image on brand loyalty as mediated by customer satisfaction; and the final model examines the impact of perceived value on brand loyalty as mediated by customer satisfaction.

Design/methodology/approach

Three conceptual models are developed based on the existing literature. These models were validated via a quantitative approach, whereby data from 253 questionnaires were analyzed employing regression analysis.

Findings

The results confirm the mediating role of customer satisfaction in the three proposed models, implying that customer satisfaction is vital for an airline to thrive in such a highly competitive market, as well as for it to retain existing passengers, acquire new ones and eventually convert them into brand loyal customers.

Research limitations/implications

Although the research models proposed in this research have been developed based on theoretical grounds, the generalizability of the result is limited to the airline industry.

Originality/value

The paper contributes to the literature by being the first to study the mediating effect of customer satisfaction on corporate image, perceived value and service quality, as well as examining their relationship with brand loyalty in the context of the UAE airline industry.
Permission email marketing and its influence on online shopping
Authors: Reimers Vaughan , Chao Chih-Wei , Gorman Sarah
Published: April 2016

Purpose

While the Internet has emerged as a retail force to be reckoned with, its’ success is dependent, at least in part, on other promotional tools. One such tool is permission email marketing (PEM). Operating within the framework of the Technology Acceptance Model (TAM), this study explores the influence of PEM on the perceived value derived from Internet shopping.

Design/methodology/approach

Data were collected through an online survey in Melbourne, Australia. Utilising a sample of 338 consumers, the resulting data was analysed using structural equation modelling.

Findings

The results of the study indicate that PEM positively influences the perceived usefulness, ease of use and enjoyment derived from shopping online. Furthermore, it also serves to reduce the perceived risk. PEM serves as an important extension of the TAM, with the findings from this study highlighting not only what the sources of online shopping value are, but also how they can be influenced.

Research limitations/implications

The limitation applies to the research context in which the study was carried out – fashion shopping.

Practical implications

The study confirms the importance of PEM and highlights to retailers that they have another important tool at their disposal.

Originality/value

This study highlights the importance of PEM and support the proposition that its key source of value lies in providing information that the consumer wants. Such relevance is the key of distinction between PEM and SPAM. Despite the rapid growth of Internet shopping in Australia, very few online shopping studies have been conducted in an Australian context. This study helps to address such an oversight.
The impact of ethnicity on luxury perception: the case of Singapore’s Generation Y
Authors: Timperio Giuseppe , Tan Kay Chuan , Fratocchi Luciano , Pace Stefano
Published: April 2016

Purpose

This study investigates Singaporean millennials’ attitudes toward luxury brands. The research focuses on the financial, functional, individual, and social dimensions of luxury value perception and whether ethnicity influences these dimensions.

Design/methodology/approach

The research measures luxury value perception among millennials of the three main ethnic groups in Singapore (Chinese, Indians, and Malays) via more than 200 questionnaires. Data were analyzed through Kruskal-Wallis non-parametric ANOVA and cluster analysis.

Findings

Luxury value perception does not vary across ethnicity, with the exception of the financial value dimension. Four market segments of young luxury consumers in Singapore are identified and profiled. These segments do not differ in terms of ethnicity.

Research limitations/implications

Millennials are an evolving and moving population segment, and thus longitudinal analyses would be useful to develop a more comprehensive understanding of this segment.

Practical implications

Ethnicity does not affect luxury value perception. The results of the cluster analysis suggest that luxury companies should address the millennials as a global target sharing the same luxury value perception. At the same time, luxury companies can emphasize some different aspects (i.e., the financial dimension) of their value offer.

Originality/value

The research studies the most interesting market for luxury brands—millennials—in a fast-growing luxury market. It adds knowledge to the previous literature on luxury value perception. This research can guide managers to devise suitable marketing strategies addressing the millennials segment as a global market that has the same set of luxury values worldwide.
Customer online shopping anxiety within the Unified Theory of Acceptance and Use Technology (UTAUT) framework
Authors: Celik Hakan
Published: April 2016

Purpose

Few studies have investigated how anxiety operates within the Unified Theory of Acceptance and Use of Technology (UTAUT) Framework. Consequently, this investigation explores the influence of anxiety on the customer adoption of online shopping based on the UTAUT.

Design/methodology/approach

The UTAUT's framework was extended by proposing new casual pathways between anxiety and its existing constructs (e.g. effort expectancy, performance expectancy and behavioural intentions) within the contingencies of age, gender and experience. The Partial Least Squares (PLS) technique was employed to evaluate the statistical significance of the proposed pathways by analysing 483 sets of self-administrated survey responses.

Findings

The results indicate that anxiety simultaneously exerts negative direct influences on performance expectancy, effort expectancy and behavioural intention constructs. While the moderating effects of age, gender and experience on the anxiety-intention link were found to be significant, there was no evidence suggesting that they moderate anxiety-performance expectancy and anxiety-effort expectancy relationships.

Research limitations/implications

The limitations of the current study are inherent in its design and methodology, providing some directions for future research.

Originality/value

This study contributes to the theory by including anxiety in the UTAUT and applying it to the online shopping context. The evidence about the significance of anxiety, with contingencies regarding age, gender and experience, supplies practical implications for online marketing strategies.
A network perspective and value added tasks: the case of agri-food value chain
Authors: Jraisat luai
Published: April 2016

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to illustrate how network perspective can be used to determine the importance of key dimensions of network in driving firm's performance within an Agri-Food Value Chain (AFVC). It aims to analyze how factors of network and value added tasks have an impact on firm’s performance in the context of agri-food sector

Design/methodology/approach

This research employs a quantitative method. Based on an illustrative empirical case, the research tests a simple variance-based reflective Structural Equation Model (SEM) with main effects based on a sample of 200 firms within AFVC in Jordan.

Findings

The results identify the high-order factors of business networks and demonstrate the role of network perspective on firm’s performance, acting as the main strategy to improve long-term business in AFVC. The results show that firm's performance is mostly driven by the three key factors of network (actors, resources and activities), as well as by the four levels of value added tasks (form, time, place and possession).

Research limitations/implications

This research has important implications for different level managers at firms. By understanding the various factors that are most important between partners at the firm level and between firms in a network, managers can focus their efforts on these factors in order to foster successful long term businesses and their performances. We further provide some managerial recommendations for more effective management of AFVC in terms of leveraging firm's performance.

Originality/value

This is one of few studies that investigate factors of network in value chain firms. The results show that the network perspective can link both the key factors of network and the levels of value added tasks for better firm's performance in AFVC.
SMS advertising the Hallyu way:
drivers, acceptance and intention to receive
Authors: Dix Steve , Jamieson Kyle , Shimul Anwar Sadat
Published: April 2016

Purpose

This paper examines the drivers of the acceptance of SMS advertising and how it is still relevant and active in South Korea.

Design/methodology/approach

An exploratory approach was applied with convenience sample of 206 valid responses. Existing scales were used to measure consumer’s acceptance of SMS advertising, intention to receive SMS advertising and responses to SMS advertising.

Findings

The findings of this study show that the utility and context of the SMS advertising as well as consumers’ trust and attitude toward the advertising are the key drivers of consumers’ acceptance of SMS advertising in South Korea. Moreover, acceptance of SMS advertising is positively associated with intention to receive the message and further behavioural responses.

Research limitations/implications

The outcomes of this study would be critical for practitioners to build strategies and conduct effective and creative SMS advertising campaigns in future. Mobile marketers should emphasize on the utility and context of the message that match with the consumers’ taste and preferences. Furthermore, consumers’ personal information needs to keep private and confidential which will create trust toward the SMS advertiser and in turn generate acceptance of SMS advertising.

Originality/value

This study focuses on the consumer’s willingness to receive SMS advertising and behavioural responses to SMS advertising in South Korea which has not been explored by earlier studies.
Staying quiet or rocking the boat? An autoethnography of organisational visual white supremacy
Authors: Liu Helena , Pechenkina Ekaterina
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to reflect on critical race theory’s application in organisational visuals research with a focus on forms of visual white supremacy in the workplace.

Design/methodology/approach

– Drawing on the authors’ personal experiences as racialised “Others” with organisational white supremacy, this paper employs reflective autoethnography to elucidate how whiteness is positioned in the academic workplace through the use of visual imagery. The university, departments and colleagues appearing in this study have been de-identified to ensure their anonymity and protect their privacy.

Findings

– The authors’ autoethnographic accounts discuss how people of colour are appropriated, commodified and subordinated in the ongoing practice of whiteness.

Research limitations/implications

– Illuminating the subtle ways through which white supremacy is embedded in the visual and aesthetic dimensions of the organisation provides a more critical awareness of workplace racism.

Originality/value

– This paper advances the critical project of organisational visual studies by interrogating the ways by which white dominance is enacted and reinforced via the everyday visual and aesthetic dimensions of the workplace. An added contribution of this paper is in demonstrating that visual racism extends beyond misrepresentations of people of colour, but can also manifest in what the authors conceptualise as “visual white supremacy”.
From whence cometh this Welfare consensus? US welfare policy discourse as class warfare in the 1980s and 1990s
Authors: Barany Darren
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to address the ideological narratives which came to comprise a new welfare consensus in the USA and subsequently a welfare state which was more fiscally austere, demeaning, and coercive. It also explores the role of the political and financial restructuring which facilitated the implementation of retrogressive reforms.

Design/methodology/approach

– Macro-level historical forces are investigated through various texts such as policy statements, journal articles, press releases, political addresses, congressional transcripts and testimony, archived papers, newspaper articles, and occasional sound bites and popular culture references pertaining to welfare and which have come to construct the common understanding of it.

Findings

– The formation of this consensus was due in part to three factors: first, the growth of and increased influence of an elite policy planning network; second, welfare program administration and financing had been decentralized which allowed greater autonomy of state and local governments to implement their own retrogressive reforms; and third, there emerged an overarching discourse and paradigm for structuring policy and explaining the causes of poverty which emphasized individual behavior.

Originality/value

– This paper focusses on the materialization of the contemporary welfare consensus during the 1980s and 1990s in terms of its ideological and political history and on its persistence which has affected the ensuing policy culture and which continues to constrain anti-poverty policy discourse as well as what can be accomplished legislatively. The paper is of value for for readers, fields, courses with work that encompasses an examination of political and social theory, ideology, social policy, power/hegemony, poverty, inequality, families, gender, race, and meaning making institutions.
Exploring political skill and deception
Authors: Clements Jeffrey A. , Boyle Randy , Proudfoot Jeffrey G.
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to explore and develop a model which examines the effects of political skill on an individual’s intent to deceive.

Design/methodology/approach

– Data were obtained through a survey research design (n=273). The sample consisted of college students. A covariance-based structural equation modeling approach was used to analyze the data.

Findings

– Individual’s with high levels of political skill had more deception confidence and less deception guilt. Increased deception confidence was shown to be positively related to perceptions of deception success which is turn is positively associated with deception intent. The factors duping delight and deception guilt were also found to be related to deception intent.

Research limitations/implications

– This research furthers deception research by using a strong behavioral framework to determine the motivational influences on an individual’s politically motivated intent to deceive. In doing so, this research identifies factors which contribute to the general understanding of politically motivated deception intent. However, caution must be applied when making external generalizations outside of the sample of college students.

Practical implications

– There are practical applications to this research as well. In general those who are highly politically skilled seem to have a stronger intention to deceive. At best, these findings can begin to contribute to the understanding of who we can trust and who we should be wary of. At worst, these findings can help us know who we should turn to when we need to deceive and manipulate others without them catching on. Perhaps this is why we love the rock-star politicians on the side of the isle but loathe the rock-star politicians on the other side of the isle. If we are able to assess the level of political skill in our friends, co-workers, bosses, politicians, etc., we may be keener in picking up on the signals of deception.

Social implications

– One final area of future research which can build on the concepts presented in this study is the area of social and political power at the macro level. Though the focus of this study is the individual, it is possible that political skill and deceptive communications play an important part of power relationships in wide range of stable institutional systems. Future research should examine to what extent an individual’s political skill and deception abilities can influence society at large.

Originality/value

– This research extends research on political skill as it explores the effect of political skill in a new context. This research identifies an important facet of why some individuals are better able than others to successfully deceive and may help explain some of the variability in the inability to consistently detect deception efforts.
Differences between business center concepts in The Netherlands
Authors: Weijs-Perrée Minou , Appel-Meulenbroek Rianne , De Vries Bauke , Romme Georges
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to analyze the objectives, tenants, spaces and services of different business center concepts and test whether the existing classifications in literature and in the real estate market draw on significantly different concepts.

Design/methodology/approach

– After a literature review, data on business centers were collected with a questionnaire among owners/mangers of 139 business centers in the Netherlands. The existing business center concepts are examined whether these concepts are significantly different, using bivariate analyses.

Findings

– The findings of this study give insight into the business center market, the existing business center concepts and (dis)similarities between the concepts. Although many dissimilarities were found between the business center concepts, like offered services, social spaces and contractual agreements, findings show that the four business center concepts can be offered in similar objects.

Originality/value

– New ideas about working and the work environment have caused the business center market to become more differentiated. Some studies have attempted to classify the business center market into several categories or analyzed in detail one specific business center concept. However, these studies did not describe in detail the differences between the concepts. Also there is hardly any empirical research on this sector. This paper addresses gaps in previous research on business centers and demonstrates that there are significant (dis)similarities between the existing business center concepts.
Strategic management in Swedish municipal housing
Authors: Lindbergh Lars , Wilson Timothy L.
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– Present directives in municipal housing have been imposed by the Public Municipal Housing Companies Act, put into force on January 2011 in Sweden. The Act, states that public municipal housing companies (PMHCs) should run their operation on “businesslike principles,” e.g., commensurate with new public management. The purpose of this paper is to determine if forthcoming practices are apparent in the owner directives that govern operations of these companies.

Design/methodology/approach

– The research is both exploratory and qualitative in nature and utilizes in-depth case studies of 20 selected PMHCs. Observations for 2013 were compared with similar documents collected ten years prior (2004) using commercially available NVivo software to qualitatively analyze information.

Findings

– Results suggest that statistically significant changes in directives have occurred and adaptation to the new Act may already have started to take place at this relatively early date.

Practical implications

– Insofar as Sweden might be a model for other countries interested in extending their efforts in managing public housing, observations here provide some insights into possible results.

Originality/value

– This is the first attempt to determine the impact that complying with “businesslike principles” has on operations in Swedish housing, which tends to be a model of effectiveness in the global housing sector.
Isolation Of Colour Component From italicJuglans Regia L.: Chromatographic Determination, Spectrophotometric Investigation And Dyeing Properties
Authors: Gungor Mustafa , Cesme Mustafa , Golcu Aysegul
Published: April 2016

In this paper, we present a more sensitive quantification of the high performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method to analyze juglon in madder root (Juglans regia L. or walnut) which appears in the South of Anatolia. The juglon is separated on a Zorbax Eclipse XDB C18 column with a phosphoric acid-acetonitrile gradient as eluent and measured with UV detection at 250 nm. With this method, the juglon can be analyzed. The regression equation that is obtained from the calibration curve reveals a linear relationship (r = 0.9999) between the mass of the juglon injected and the peak area. Then, the color component responsible for dyeing is determined and its chemical constituents are established based on chemical and spectroscopic investigations. Afterwards, the wool fabrics are dyed by using pre, together and last mordanting, and mordantless techniques. Fastness to light, washing and rubbing of the dyed fabrics are measured and discussed.
Preparation and Characterisation of Ink Formulations for Jet Printing on Nylon Carpet
Authors: El-Wahab H. Abd , El-Molla M.M. , Lin L.
Published: April 2016

Various ink formulations for inkjet printing on nylon66 carpet are prepared by using CI Acid Red 57, Natrosol and sodium alginate thickeners, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, and isopropanol with auxiliaries. The inks are characterised for their rheological, wetting, and storage stability properties. They were jetted by using a Printos P16 drop-on-demand jet print-head onto the nylon66 carpet materials, and the printed images were characterised by using an Image Xpert system.

The inks that contained the synthetic thickeners at the optimum ratio provide good printing and imaging properties, such as optical density, drop size, and depth of penetration into the substrate at pH 4-5. The optimised ink formulation is found to have good storage stability. The study has focused on ink formulations based on CI Acid Red 57. Ink formulations based on other colorants could also be studied in order to assess the applicability of the ink formulation system found for other colorants. The ink formulations developed could find both uses in industrial scale printing and low cost ink formulations for printing of nylon66 carpets.
The Effects of Industrial Environment on Colour Fastness to Light of Mordanted Wool Yarns Dyed with Natural Dyes
Authors: Kamel M.M. , Helmy H.M. , Shakour Alia A. , Rashed S.S.
Published: April 2016

Wool yarns are dyed with natural colouring matter that is extracted from cochineal, turmeric and madder, and mordanted with different mordants by using the exhaustion method. Many measurements of mordanted dyed wool samples have been carried out after exposure to air and light for different periods of time in the time frame of one year in an urban area (Helwan city). The variables that are measured include changes in colour and physical properties (tensile strength, tenacity and elongation) of mordanted dyed wool samples. Also, air pollution in Helwan city is determined by studying suspended and deposited particulate matter and sulpher dioxide concentrations.
Discharge Printing on Heat Transfer Printed Cationised Linen Fabrics
Authors: Thalouth, J.I. Abd-El , M. Rekaby , A.A. El-Halwagy
Published: April 2016

An approach for discharge printing of cationised linen fabric has been examined. Accordingly, cationic sites are first added to the fibers via a pretreatment with different aliphatic quaternary ammonium salts. Then, the cationised linen fabric samples are printed by using two different styles. First, a direct dyeing process is represented in dry transfer printing by using disperse dyes. Then, the fabric is subjected to either white or colour discharge printing by using reactive dyes. Excellent white index and colour strength values are obtained for the discharge printed cationised linen fabric.
Preparation and Characterization of Phosphorylated Sesbania Galactomannan Gum Derivatives and Their Applications in Textile Printing
Authors: El-Thalouth I. Abd , M. Rekaby , A.H. Abdel-Rahman , Sh. A. El-khabery
Published: April 2016

Galactomannan gum isolated from the seeds of sesbania is subjected to chemical modification via phosphorylation. This is conducted via heating moistened blends of the gum with a mixture of orthophosphate salt. Three different phosphate ester derivatives are prepared by changing the reaction time. The %P increases from 0.07 to 0.12 to 0.61 by increasing the reaction time from 30 to 60 to 90 minutes.

Modification of sesbania gum via phosphorylation increases the stability of their pastes to storing. Investigation of the rhelogical properties of these pastes indicate that they are characterised by non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behaviour. As the extent of the reaction increases, i.e. %P, the apparent viscosity of the pastes at a constant rate of shear decreases, while storing does not change the rheological characteristics of the pastes.

Utilization of these derivatives as thickening agents in printing wool fabrics by using acid dyes indicate that phosphate derivatives of sesbania seeds could be used as a thickening agent in printing wool fabrics with acid dyes, where the K/S slightly decreases less than the commercial thickening agent named (Meypro gum) while the overall fastness properties are nearly identical.
Antibacterial Properties of Natural Dyes on Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Karolia Anjali , Khaitan Umang
Published: April 2016

Garment functionality has become a major area of concern to the consumer. The study aimed to evaluate the antibacterial activity of five natural dyes- neem leaves, turmeric, tea leaves, pomegranate rind, and myrobalan (harda) against Staphylococcus Aureus (S.aureus) and Escherichia Coli (E.coli). The dyes were tested individually for their antibacterial activity. No relation was found between the K/S values and antibacterial activity of the treated samples. Neem leaves showed the best antibacterial activity with pomegranate rind coming in second. The wash fastness of the dyes applied was also checked after subjecting the samples to 3 wash cycles. The individually treated samples of neem leaves and pomegranate rind had better wash durability as compared to turmeric, myrobalan (harda) and tea leaves.
Multifinishing of Cotton Fabrics Using Microwave Techniques
Authors: Hebeish Ali , Sharaf Samar , Refaie Rakia , El Shafei Amira
Published: April 2016

An alternative approach is used to cure glyoxal/β-cyclodextrin treated cotton fabric to impart a crease resistance finish. Low microwave power (200 w) for 2 min of curing time is sufficient to impart a high crease recovery angle to the fabric. Comparisons have been made for conventional/and microwave cured cotton fabric with glyoxal in the absence and presence of β-cyclodextrin. The crosslinking efficiency in conventional and microwave cured samples is evaluated on the basis of the crease recovery angle, tensile strength and elongation. The ability of β -cyclodextrin to include hydrophobic molecules, such as fragrances and antimicrobial agents (Tinosan®) can be explored to produce new cotton fabric with unique performances. The physicochemical properties and performance of the untreated and treated fabrics are evaluated with crease recovery angles that reach about 260° and tensile strength of 42 kg, in which perfumed and antimicrobial finishings are evaluated. The modified cotton fabric is characterized with a scanning electron microscope (SEM) and Fourier transform infrared spectrophotometer (FTIR), and β-cyclodextrin inclusion with Tinosan® improves with a 1H nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectrum.
Optimisation of Extraction and Dyeing Processes of Parmilia Usnea - Approach to Sustainable Craft Practise in Garhwal Himalayas
Authors: Sharda Nidhi L. , Rastogi Deepali
Published: April 2016

This paper examines the commercial viability of Parmelia usnea in small-scale dyeing units of Garhwal Himalayas and the traditional craft of the region. Physicochemical analysis of the plant was carried out in order to standardise the extraction method. The parameters studied were colour, physical appearance, pH, moisture, ash, acid-insoluble ash and water-soluble extractive value. Extraction and application of the dye were carried out and its conditions on wool were standardised by studying the effects of time, pH and temperature on extraction and also the effects of shades on exhaustion of the dye by a substrate.
Dual Functionalisation of Cotton Fabrics by Using Punica Granatum Rind Extract
Authors: Balakumar C. , Rajendran R. , Kalaivani J. , Sivakumar R.
Published: April 2016

In the present study, cotton fabrics are dyed with extracts obtained from the rinds of the pomegranate fruit, Punica (P.) granatum. The fabrics are then assessed for antimicrobial, dyeability and fastness properties. The colour strength (K/S) of the dyed fabric is assessed through a dyeability test. The finished fabrics are qualitatively assessed for antibacterial activity by the disc diffusion and parallel streak methods (AATCC 147) and quantitatively by the percentage reduction test (AATCC 100) against the test organisms, Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus. The fabrics are also assessed for fastness properties, such as wash, light and rubbing fastness per AATCC standards. The fabrics are then finally subjected to wash durability tests. The dyeability results show that the fabrics dyed with P. granatum rind extracts have a high K/S value when compared with the untreated control fabric. The natural extract dyed fabric has prominent antimicrobial activity which is evidenced by a clear zone of bacterial inhibition in qualitative tests and bacterial reduction in quantitative tests whereas the control fabrics have no antibacterial activity. Wash durability testing shows that the antimicrobial activity of the fabrics is durable up to 10 wash cycles.
Wool Fabrics with Antibacterial Properties
Authors: Abdel-Fattah S.H. , El-Khatib E.M.
Published: April 2016

Wool fabric is a suitable medium for growing bacteria under favorable temperature and humidity conditions resulting in wool degradation, skin irritation or infections. Carboxylic groups were incorporated in wool polypeptide chains by grafting acrylic acid initiated chemically with hydrogen peroxide and metallic anions of Cu2+.The mechanism of grafting is suggested, and post-treatment with two antibiotics, Neomycin (Ne) and Tetracycline hydrochloride (Te), to obtain antibacterial fibers in relation to Gram-positive and Gram-negative microorganisms. This was confirmed by measuring the inhibition zone of treated wool fabric with the above mentioned antibiotic under various conditions. The modified fabrics showed different activities in relation to the microorganisms being dependent on the type and quantity of added biocide. Post-treated wool fabric displayed excellent bacteriostatic durability on fabric after multiple washing. FT-IR spectroscopy confirmed the ionic interaction between wool and the antibiotic due to the appearance of new bands at 1650 cm−1 corresponding to amide I and band at 1520 cm−1 attributed to amide II. Wool treated with the aforementioned method showed improvement in shrinkage. Changes in surface morphology were also observed.
Using Nonwoven Hollow Fibers to Improve Cars Interior Acoustic Properties
Authors: Mahmoud Abdelfattah , El-Shenawy Ghalia , Ramadan Eman
Published: April 2016

This research aims to produce nonwoven fabrics that can be used in car interior components (head liners, doors, side panels and trunk liners) to prevent noise from reaching the passenger compartment and therefore achieving comfort in the car interior. Two kinds of fibers were used, polyester and hollow polyester fibers, both of 6 denier, to produce three different fabrics of 100% polyester fibers, 75% polyester/25% hollow polyester fibers, and 55% polyester45% hollow polyester fibers. Four fabric weights were produced: 300, 400, 500 and 600 g/m2. All samples were bonded using thermal bonding technique. More results were reached and most samples have achieved the expected results for example, samples produced with high percentage of hollow fibers have recorded the highest rates of sound absorption whereas samples produced with 100% polyester fibers have recorded the lowest rates. It was also found that there is a direct relationship between weight per m2 and sound absorption efficiency. Samples produced with 55% polyester/45% hollow polyester fibers and 600 g/m2 have achieved the best results.
Preparation of Adsorptive Polyacrylonitrile Fibers Blending with Poly (N-butyl Methacrylate)
Authors: Ge Zhaogang , Xiao Changfa
Published: April 2016

Poly(n-butyl methacrylate)(PBMA) has been prepared by a suspension polymerization process, and blended with polyacrylonitrile (PAN) in N,N-dimethyl acetamide (DMAc). The rheological analysis results show that the PBMA/PAN blend solution is a typical shear thinning fluid regardless of the PBMA content, and suitable for preparing fibers through a wet spinning process. Moreover, it is observed that with an increased PBMA content, the tensile strength of the blended fibers first slightly increases and then decreases, while the breaking elongation increases, which shows a higher value than that of the PAN fiber. The scanning electron microscope (SEM) and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) results show that with low content PBMA that is evenly dispersed in the PAN matrix, the heat stability of the blended fibers is remarkably enhanced. The adsorption experiment results show that the addition of PBMA contributes to enhancing the adsorptive capacity of the blended fibers, and the adsorption of the organic solvents on the PBMA/PAN(30-70) blended fibers is two or three times higher than that of the PAN fiber
Silent Witnesses Innovation Through Tradition in Italian Fashion Companies
Authors: Vacca Federica
Published: April 2016

The aim of this essay is to examine the relationship between design and handcraft, and examine the artisan as a witness of cultural and social traditions.

In the fashion and textile sector, craft production represents a very high manufacturing cost, particularly when production is not delocalized. However, it might not be easy to position craft production in the market, because its value is not immediately perceived. In this case, a design-oriented approach is essential. Design is important for the specificity of local productive knowledge and identity, not only to develop products with a high narrative content, but also as a stimulus for innovation. In combination with a local orientation, design can build value on implicit knowledge, the search for new languages, increase in the emotional dimension of the offered work, and innovate processes and the conception of the finished products. At the same time, design can help consumers to understand and recognize the qualities and unique characteristics of handmade products, thus creating the feeling of a unique purchasing experience with high added value.