bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
HYDRO-METEOROLOGICAL ANALYSIS OF EXTREME WEATHER IN INDONESIA USING COUPLED ATMOSPHERIC-HYDROLOGICAL MODEL
Authors: Chrysanti Asrini , Son Sangyoung
Published: September 2023

In recent years, hydro-meteorological hazard in the area involving coastlines has been dominated the disaster occurrence in Indonesia. In the last 10 years, the combination of the extreme weather and the environmental capacity degradation result in more flooding vulnerability. In 11-17 January 2021, heavy flood affected South Kalimantan, Indonesia, with causing many casualties. The flood characteristics was similar with the extreme flood in Jakarta in the preceding year in 2020, and more extreme floods occurred in the following year in 2022. Our goal is to analyze the extreme weather from the hydro-meteorological perspective and identify the key factor behind the high impact flood in South Kalimantan. Two factors, sea surface temperature (SST) and soil moisture (SM) content were highlighted and the sensitivity analysis was performed to identify their influence to the flood response at the time of the event. The coupled atmospheric model of Weather Research and Forecasting (WRF) and the hydrological model extension (WRF-Hydro) will be used to reconstruct the flood event.
MOVEMENT OF MICROPLASTICS IN THE WASTEWATER DISCHARGED FROM THE ANTARCTIC RESEARCH STATION
Authors: Kim Bo-Kyung , Hwang Jin Hwan
Published: September 2023

As a large number of microplastics (MPs) have been found around the Antarctic research stations, the wastewater from the station is presumed to be a local source of MPs pollution (Waller et al., 2017). In addition, more than half of stations in Antarctica have no adequate sewage treatment systems (Gröndahl et al., 2009). The present study collected MPs in Marian Cove, West Antarctica. In this bay, the King Sejong Station, which is a Korea station, is located, and other research stations are located around. And, we actually found a significant amount of MPs in the seawater and wastewater of the station. So, we assumed that this research station can be a local source in this cove. To investigate how the MPs discharged from the stations are transported and accumulated, it is necessary to understand the movement of MPs. This study investigated the movement of MPs discharged from the research station through numerical simulation to elucidate the transport mechanism of MPs. And, the Lagrangian particle tracking method was coupled with the numerical simulation to track the trajectories of MPs. The present study finally suggested an optimal wastewater discharge method by simulating MPs according to waves, tidal cycles, and discharge locations.
CREEK RESTORATION EFFECTS ON TIDAL DYNAMICS IN MANGROVES
Authors: Horstman Erik , Gijsman Rik , Zee Rob van , Engel Sabine , Johnson Jessica , Wal Daphne van der , Wijnberg Kathelijne
Published: September 2023

Mangroves provide natural buffers between land and sea, protecting both coastal communities and nature as they attenuate waves and stabilize shorelines but also filter terrestrial runoff. Tropical mangroves are also biodiversity hotspots and provide other ecosystem services such as supporting fish and shellfish habitat, accommodating ecotourism and sequestering carbon. Nevertheless, mangrove coasts have become increasingly exposed to changing environmental conditions, a trend that has resulted in a declining mangrove cover on a global scale. At the protected Ramsar site of Lac Bay, Bonaire, large areas of mangroves have been subject to deterioration and tree mortality (Senger et al., 2021). Excessive sediment inputs from the land and mangrove growth have clogged existing creeks and reduced hydrodynamic circulation through the mangrove system. Resulting changes in sedimentation rates, submergence and water quality affect the survival of the inland mangroves in Lac Bay. The (re-)creation of suitable morphological and hydrodynamic conditions is key for mangrove restoration (Friess et al., 2019). This study investigates the potential of creek restoration to increase the hydrodynamic circulation in the mangroves of Lac Bay, thereby accommodating their survival.
EVALUATION OF OVERTOPPING MODEL PERFORMANCE USING NOVEL EXPERIMENTAL DATA FROM INDUSTRIAL DESIGN PROJECTS
Authors: Downie Steven , Vaz Jorge , Anastasaki Eleni
Published: September 2023

A critical requirement in successfully planning to mitigate wave overtopping is the ability to predict the frequency at which coastal defences will be overtopped. Many empirical formulae have been developed to predict wave overtopping rates for specific structural typologies and hydrodynamic conditions. More recently, Machine Learning methods have been deployed in an effort to make models that generalize across a wide range of structures and environments. A critical enabling factor has been the compilation of systematically parameterized physical model data, culminating in the EurOtop extended database. Practitioners now have the luxury of choosing between multiple, high-quality models. In addition, given the rapid advancement in usability of modern Machine Learning frameworks, training their own bespoke models is an increasingly realistic option. What is now needed is more information, showing how these models perform on unseen data, in a practical design context, in order to continue to refine guidance around their use.
3D VELOCITY FIELDS WITH 2DH NUMERICAL STABILITY: A 3D ANALYTICAL-NUMERICAL MODULE FOR 2DH NUMERICAL MODELS
Authors: Araujo Thalles A. A. , Rosman Paulo C. C.
Published: September 2023

This research consists of the mathematical development of a three-dimensional (3D) analytical-numerical module that can be installed on vertically-averaged (2DH) numerical models. Designed to combine the advantages of both 3D and 2DH hydrodynamic models, it simulates a wide range of coastal natural water bodies of free surfaces and irregular geometries. Examples include estuaries, rivers, bays, lakes, and lagoons. Assuming a parabolic profile of turbulent viscosity and a predictor-corrector scheme applied to 2DH variables, a preliminary (predicted, analytical) logarithmic profile of horizontal velocity is used for the calculation of an adjusted (corrected, analytical-numerical) realistic 3D velocity field (u,v,w). Through a process of continuous synergetic interdependence, both the 3D module and the 2DH model feed on and enhance one another at every time step of a simulation in a cycle of mutual contribution that increases its accuracy. The following terms of the Navier-Stokes horizontal equations are considered in full three-dimensionality: local acceleration, non-linear advective accelerations, Coriolis acceleration, barotropic and baroclinic pressure gradients, and vertical shear stresses. All 2DH variables are allowed to vary in time and space (x,y,t) and all boundary conditions (dynamic and kinematic, bottom and surface) are analytically satisfied.
UNRAVELLING THE DRIVERS OF SHORELINE CHANGE
Authors: Luijendijk Arjen , Kras Etienne , Calkoen Floris , Moreno-Rodenas Antonio
Published: September 2023

The availability of public satellite imagery, combined with advanced image processing, machine learning and cloud computing, triggered an unprecedented flow of information relevant to the coastal engineering community. From satellite imagery we can nowadays for example derive subtidal bathymetry, beach slopes, beach sediment types and coastline dynamics, at accuracies that increasingly allow for engineering applications. Regarding the latter two, global datasets on the occurrence of sandy beaches and historic shorelines have recently become available (Luijendijk et al., 2018). The high spatial and temporal resolution of this information yields more comprehensive understanding of our coasts and its dynamics (see Figure 1). This is not only of great added value in data-poor environments, it will also allow for more cost-effective coastal monitoring in data rich environments as the necessity of in-situ measurements will reduce in future. In this study we will expose the main drivers for coastal change for sandy and muddy coasts using satellite-derived shoreline (SDS) and machine learning algorithms.
HIGHWAYS IN THE COASTAL ENVIRONMENT: NEW USA GUIDANCE
Authors: Douglass Scott , Krolak Joseph , Webb Bret
Published: September 2023

There are over 60,000 miles (100,000 km) of coastal highways in the United States (US) that are occasionally exposed to coastal waves and water levels. Wise stewardship calls for the integration of coastal engineering principles and practices in the planning and design of these roads and bridges to make them more resilient. A new, 3rd, edition of the primary guidance document Hydraulic Engineering Circular No. 25 (HEC-25), entitled “Highways in the Coastal Environment” was recently released by the Federal Highway Administration (FHWA). It provides guidance on a range of issues for the design, planning and operation of coastal highways. This manual should help those with little experience in coastal engineering to understand and, as appropriate, to apply scientific methods and engineering approaches that are unique to the coast. For experienced coastal engineers, this manual should serve as a reference document in providing specific highway-oriented assistance and consultation for FHWA and state Department of Transportation projects.
DEEP LEARNING OBJECT DETECTION APPLICATION TO SURFING WAVE QUALITY
Authors: Atkin Edward A , Davies-Campbell Jai , McIntosh Rhys
Published: September 2023

Quantitative monitoring is imperative to the sustainable management of coastal resources. Surfing resources have been both created and degenerated or destroyed by activities in the coastal zone. Effective surfing wave quality monitoring requires identification and tracking of the breaking part of the wave and the unbroken wave crest. Remote Camera Systems (RCS) have proven their utility in being able to monitor the coastal zone and provide almost continuous, high frequency data collection. RCSs lend themselves very well to the monitoring of surf breaks which are highly dynamic. The images captured from an RCS monitoring a surf break on the west coast of Aotearoa New Zealand are used to train a Convolutional Neural Network (CNN) to detect the break points (BP), associated crest orientation and relative Still Water Level (SWL) of each instance of breaking waves in each image. Model settings and image annotations were modified over a suite of training cases to improve model efficacy, which was evaluated each epoch of training with mean Average-Precision (mAP; max 1). A mAP of 0.794 was achieved for the BP and Crest Point (CP) CNN, and 8.634 for the SWL. The model was used to detect ~1.6 M objects across ~1 million images, with a mean confidence value of all BP-CP detections of 0.63 and more than 70percent of detections being greater than 0.5. This model enables the first automation of meaningful surfing wave quality monitoring.
AVERAGE OVERTOPPING DISCHARGE PREDICTION FOR BERM BREAKWATERS
Authors: Andersen T. Lykke , Eldrup M.R. , Meer J.W. Van der
Published: September 2023

The present paper deals with overtopping prediction for berm breakwaters in line with the EurOtop methodology. The basis for the paper is the recent advances proposed for EurOtop for conventional breakwaters with respect to the influence of the wave steepness and the crest width. New model tests have been performed to investigate the applicability of these influence factors to berm breakwaters. To cover a white spot in existing data for berm breakwaters, the model tests included wave conditions with very low wave steepness. The results show that the recently developed influence factors for conventional breakwaters also improve predictions for berm breakwaters. Based heron an additional influence factor for the dimensionless berm width is established. The berm width was in previous studies made dimensionless by the wave height, but the present study indicates that the wavelength is more appropriate.
MODELLING WAVE-STRUCTURE INTERACTION WITH A NEW COMPRESSIBLE TWO-PHASE FLOW SOLVER
Authors: Formentin Sara Mizar , Huerta Juan Carlos Alcérreca , Zanuttigh Barbara
Published: September 2023

This contribution presents and investigates the effects of the air entrainment and air compressibility on the shape and magnitude of the wave impacts occurring at crown walls on top of sea defenses. To this purpose, a new solver, developed in the OpenFoam environment to represent the wave interactions with impermeable and porous coastal structures, accounting for the fluid compressibility, is checked against recent laboratory tests of wave overtopping and wave impacts. By comparing the first results of this new code to the ones obtained with the native solver dealing with incompressible fluids exclusively, significant advances in the representation of the pressure signals and peaks at the walls seem to be achieved.
AN INTEGRATED MACHINE LEARNING-PROBABILISTIC APPROACH TO PREDICT BEACH VOLUME CHANGE
Authors: Pieterse Aline , Lara Hilario Castro , Habtemariam Bereket , Schepper Rob , Leyssen Gert , Bolle Annelies
Published: September 2023

In the DataBeach study a machine learning model was developed with the aim to improve the efficiency and sustainability of design of soft coastal defense projects. A morphological model based on machine learning was trained and tested to predict beach volume changes with significantly reduced computational time compared to traditional process-based models. The machine learning model was then applied, combined with a ‘penalty function’ for inclusion of morphological feedback, to predict beach volume changes for the study area of approximately 2 km alongshore and on a 10-year project timescale. In order to run many different scenarios for the 10-year prediction, a probabilistic methodology was developed to take into account the uncertainties in this time period. The machine learning-based model provides great benefits for probabilistic simulations, due to the lower computational time, compared to process-based numerical models such as XBeach, and a flexible way in which it can incorporate measurement data. The performance of the tested machine learning models was comparable to that of the short term volume predictions of XBeach. Comparison of 10-year predicted volume changes using the machine learning model and measured beach topography (LiDAR) showed good agreement between measured and predicted volume changes for the dry beach area (when accounting for nourishments), but overestimation in the beach volume change predictions for the intertidal beach. These differences are partially attributed to the poor performance on XBeach for long term, normal wave conditions, which are an important factor in the intertidal area.
NEW STANDARDS FOR MITIGATING DREDGING IMPACTS IN SENSITIVE HABITATS IN SAUDI ARABIA
Authors: Kaergaard Kasper , Geil Thue , Trinder Damien , Shepherd Barry , McGrath David , Palmer Edwin
Published: September 2023

We propose a systematic approach to monitoring and managing dredge operations based on industry best practice advice, tailored to the specific conditions in the Red Sea, including the following key elements: 1) Relocation of corals from the direct dredging footprint, 2) Development of a site and project-specific dredging environmental management plan, 3) Undertaking turbidity and coral monitoring, 4) Turbidity plume hindcast and forecast, 5) Adaptive management involving all key project stakeholders. The paper lists the above key elements and presents a case study from Sindalah Island where the system was successfully applied – the first time such an approach has been implemented in the Middle East region.
NUMERICAL MODELING OF SHINNECOCK INLET, NEW YORK, FOR COASTAL EROSION CONTROL SUPPORT AND INLET SEDIMENT MANAGEMENT
Authors: Lin Lihwa , Demirbilek Zeki , Greenblatt Elisheva R. , Rice Suzana S. , Buonaiuto Frank
Published: September 2023

The Shinnecock Inlet on the south shore of Long Island, New York, has experienced chronical erosion at the down-drift beaches which require periodic nourishment to stabilize the local shoreline. The potential sand borrow site is selected outside the inlet with minimum impact to the natural bypass process at the inlet. Supported by the US Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) District, New York, a numerical sediment transport modeling study is presently conducted to explore engineering solutions for the sand borrow area and structural alternatives to reduce the down-drift beach erosion. New field surveys have indicated a drastic decrease of sand outside inlet and along the adjacent coast. The modeling result shows a partial ebb shoal borrow area design without structural alternatives performs better together with the down-drift beach nourishment applications.
IMPACT OF THE SHIP WAVES AND TIDAL FORCES ON THE SEDIMENT RESUSPENSION IN INLAND WATERWAYS
Authors: Chakraborty Mainak , Sriram V , Murali K
Published: September 2023

Ship movement in narrow intertidal waterways generate complex hydrodynamics and sediment resuspension along with tides. In order to investigate the complex hydrodynamics and induced sediment concentration, field measurements were performed at the Falta stretch of the Hooghly river, India. The low frequency primary waves and high frequency secondary waves are dominant in this region as ships navigate in subcritical range due to complex river bathymetry. The time-frequency analysis is a useful tool to separate the ship-generated waves with the tides. The modest performance of the existing empirical models led to the development of the new empirical models for the prediction of ship-generated primary waves. The tides are the dominant factor for the sediment resuspension during the spring period whereas the ship-induced waves are dominant in neap period. The overall contribution of the ship waves on sediment resuspension during the tenure of field measurement was 24.66percent.
REPEATABILITY OF MORPHOLOGICAL CHANGE ON A SANDY BEACH ACROSS MULTIPLE TIMESCALES
Authors: Blenkinsopp Chris , Bayle Paul , Baldock Tom , Conley Daniel , Masselink Gerd
Published: September 2023

The swash zone is a highly dynamic region of the nearshore in terms of both hydro- and sediment dynamics. Previous work has demonstrated that the majority of swash events transport only small amounts of sediment and net beachface volume change over several hours tends to be small. However, a small number of individual swash events can deposit or remove hundreds of kilograms of sediment per metre width of beach. These events are typically associated with swash flows that involve one or more highly turbulent swash-swash interactions, causing enhanced suspension and transport of sediment (Blenkinsopp et al. 2011). The timing and location of these interactions is complex and small changes in either can lead to very different local flow conditions. The complexity of these flows make sediment transport prediction on a swash-by-swash basis very challenging, and raises the question whether deterministic physical and numerical modelling of swash sediment transport is warranted.
THE IMPACT OF RESTORED FRESHWATER INFLOW ON TIDAL DISTORTION IN A SHALLOW ESTUARY
Authors: Razzaghi Mojgan , Gallop Shari L , Bryan Karin R , Largier John L
Published: September 2023

Te Awa o Ngātoroirangi (the Maketū Estuary) in the Bay of Plenty of Aotearoa New Zealand has had multiple major shifts in the salinity regime, associated with a long history of engineering works on river inflows. The Kaituna River was diverted out of the estuary in 1957 to prevent flooding, resulting in degradation of the estuary, including increased sedimentation, loss of tidal channels, decreased flushing, saltwater intrusion and ecological decline. However, in 2020 and 2021, a total of 20 percent of the river flow was restored back into the estuary in two stages through 12 control gates, with a key driver being to restore the mauri (life force) of the estuary and kaimoana for tangata whenua (Māori people of the land). This study focuses on the immediate effects of the partial (13 percent) restoration of the Kaituna River flow on the tidal distortion at 5 sites throughout the estuary. One of the issues before the partial freshwater restoration was infilling of the estuary with sediment. Infilling can be driven by flood-dominant tidal asymmetry and thus changes to asymmetry are a focus of this study.
S2SHORES: A PYTHON LIBRARY FOR ESTIMATING COASTAL BATHYMETRY
Authors: Bergsma Erwin W. J. , Almar Rafael , Giros Alain , Lemai-Chenevier Solange , Thoumyre Gregoire , Artigues Stephanie , Garlan Thierry , Degoul Romain
Published: September 2023

Understanding coastal zone dynamics covering large spatial and dense temporal scales is paramount to understand and mitigate emerging coastal issues relating to climatological changes. However, the uncertainties on the coastal zone risks are still too large to predict effectively impacts on an overall increasing coastal population. Prediction, by deploying numerical models for waves, tide, and currents in the coastal zone, requires accurate and up-to-date bottom boundary conditions (bathymetry) to simulate coastal hydrodynamics accurately, let alone predict morphological change. There are three main approaches for estimating coastal bathymetry using satellite sensors: 1) linking water depth to a spectral response (colour), 2) underwater photogrammetry and 3) linking wave kinematics to a water depth. Here, we present S2Shores (Satellite to Shores), a python library that detects and extracts local wave parameters (geometry and kinematics) to derive coastal bathymetry.
FIELD STUDY FOR WIND-BLOWN SAND ON THE SWASH ZONE
Authors: Katano Akiyoshi , Arikawa Taro
Published: September 2023

Niigata West Coast faces the Sea of Japan and Sado Island is located approximately 45 km to the west from there (Fig.1). This coast has suffered severe erosion since the early 1950s. Hiyoriyamahama beach where is a part of the Coast is a highly erosive beach. For the protection of the beach erosion, the combined shore protection system with the jetty, submerged wide breakwater and beach nourishment have been constructed at the beach. There, strong winds from NW to WNW blow in the winter season and nourished sand has been blown off from the beach. For the prevention of blown off nourished sands from the beach, an attempt to develop an integrate system for controlling the wind-blown sand combined with sand fences, a green belt (an artificial low dune) and a vacancy space (road) has been made. To examine the function of the integrate system under development, extensive field surveys for beach topographical changes, wave runup on the swash zone, wind at the site, waves have been conducted. The purpose of this paper is to describe the field measurement results.
MONITORING OF A DYNAMIC REVETMENT DURING A SPRING TIDAL CYCLE IN NORTH COVE, WASHINGTON STATE, USA
Authors: Kaminsky George M. , Bayle Paul M. , Blenkinsopp Chris E. , Weiner Heather , Cottrell David
Published: September 2023

A dynamic revetment is a cobble-gravel berm constructed around the high tide wave runup limit. These structures mimic composite beaches, which consist of a lower foreshore of sand and a backshore berm constructed of gravel or cobbles, which stabilizes the upper beach and provides overtopping protection to the hinterland. Dynamic revetments contrast with static coastal defense structures as they are “dynamic” and are expected to reshape under wave attack. The idea of a dynamic structure made of smaller material than a classic riprap type of revetment is not new, and previous laboratory and field research has investigated the use of dynamic revetments for coastal protection (Allan et al., 2016). However, applications of such a structure remain sporadic and often differ to each other in terms of their design and aim. Furthermore, few existing dynamic revetments have been monitored to evaluate their function, and therefore, the way they behave at the particle and global scale remains poorly understood. In this study, 2D Lidar, GPS topography, particle tracking, and sub-surface particle composition data were collected on the dynamic revetment at North Cove, Washington State, USA, during a spring tidal cycle. Together they enabled investigation of the revetment dynamics and evolution in response to waves and water levels. In addition, this monitoring is proposed as a suitable protocol for short and long-term monitoring of dynamic revetments.
STORM MORPHODYNAMICS AND DECADAL EVOLUTION OF BEACHES IN MODIFIED ESTUARIES AND BAYS
Authors: Vila-Concejo Ana , Gallop Shari L , Fellowes Thomas E , Rahbani Maryam , Kennedy David M , Largier John L
Published: September 2023

Estuaries and bays have a long history as important locations for humanity, where societies and civilizations have thrived. The many sandy beaches within estuaries and bays (BEBs), often in urban environments, provide critical habitats and shoreline protection, as well as being important for recreation, often in urban environments. Due to their historic importance, many estuaries are subject to anthropogenic modification including: (1) dredging; (2) construction of ports and other infrastructure leading to “hard shorelines”; (3) urban sprawl causing encroachment of natural shorelines including BEBs, and wetlands such as mangroves or saltmarshes; (4) contamination and overfishing, leading for example to the ecosystem collapse of oyster reefs and loss of their shoreline protection, although there are efforts internationally at restoration to improve water quality and shoreline protection. Here we present selected examples of BEBs located in modified estuaries and bays, highlighting their morphological diversity.
COUPLED MODELLING OF DUNES AND COASTS – THE CODAC MODEL
Authors: Hallin Caroline , Huisman Bas , Vries Sierd de
Published: September 2023

Long-term forecasts of coastal evolution are becoming increasingly relevant in view of climate change and a further transition to sustainable long-term management of the coast. An integrated approach is required to deal with the decadal timescale interactions between the marine, beach and dune sections of the coast. A new coupled dune and coastal model, coDaC, has been created for this purpose, which is described in this paper.
STORM AND TSUNAMI OVERWASH SEDIMENT TRANSPORT INFERRED FROM RECENT DEPOSITS
Authors: Jaffe Bruce , Selle SeanPaul La
Published: September 2023

Overwash deposits from storms and tsunamis record information about sediment transport and flow that can be used to inform hazard assessments. Here we explore deposits from two extreme wave events: (1) the 2012 Hurricane Sandy, a Category 5 hurricane that is the largest storm in the Atlantic basin on historical record, and (2) the 2011 Tohoku-oki tsunami, created by a 9.0 Mw earthquake, that was up to 20 m high at the coast.
REAL-TIME MONITORING OF HYDRODYNAMICS AND SUSPENDED SEDIMENT CONCENTRATIONS IN A COASTAL REEF
Authors: Ly TrungNguyen , Huang Zhi-Cheng
Published: September 2023

The algal reef ecosystem in Taoyuan coast, Taiwan, is considered a unique endemic species population, but the coastal constructions might cause the sensitive ecological area problems (Kuo et al., 2020). Several studies have confirmed that suspended sediment concentration (c) is a major detrimental factor affecting reef health. In recent years, there has been a focus on long-term monitoring of the c, but without continuous data. Most of study used an optical backscatter sensor (OBS) for long-term monitoring of the c because of its small size, low power, highly linear response and insensitivity to bubbles or organic matter. By contrast, few studies focus on testing how frequency the OBS should be calibrated because of other factor such as sediment size also affect the sensor response. Furthermore, although the long-term monitoring was demonstrated over the years ago, little attention has been paid to the real-time monitoring of c, especially since this method is achieved in the sensitive algal reef. For this reason, the real-time and long-term monitoring of waves and c (started in 2019 and lasts for 7 years) are necessarily performed in this algal reef conservation.
LIFE-CYCLE ANALYSES OF SUBAERIAL BEACH NOURISHMENTS WITH CONCURRENT NEARSHORE PLACEMENT OF DREDGED SEDIMENT
Authors: Krafft Douglas , Melby Jeffrey , McFall Brian , Johnson Bradley
Published: September 2023

The practice of placing sediment dredged from navigation channels in the downdrift nearshore is common in the US. These nearshore placements of dredged sediment, or nearshore nourishments, often correspond to a variety of positive nearshore morphology and shoreline stability benefits. They are often able to beneficially use sediment not directly suitable for dry beach placement, which increases the volume available to nourish the full beach profile and keeps sediment in the system that would otherwise be removed. Concentrating dredged sediment placement in nearshore berms may dissipate wave energy farther offshore and reduce the sediment needs of the co-located shoreline. This strategy may be able to extend subaerial beach nourishment lifespan, which typically cost substantially more. Co-located nearshore and subaerial beach nourishments could lead to large cost savings, but the potential to increase subaerial beach fill lifespan has not previously been quantified.
ESTIMATING ALONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT FROM DREDGED ACCESS CHANNELS
Authors: Roest Bart , Rauwoens Pieter
Published: September 2023

Alongshore sediment transport rates are important in sediment budget studies or design of coastal structures. Underestimated transport rates give rise to severe siltation updrift from cross-shore structures and severe erosion downdrift. Overestimates may lead to over-design and thus high costs. Currently, these estimates are generally obtained from sediment transport equations, morphodynamic numerical modelling or bathymetrical changes in accumulation areas (Vandebroek et al. 2017). However, alongshore transport is difficult to estimate from regular bathymetrical surveys, since only locations with gradients in the transport will provide information via volume changes. On a straight coastline the sediment will simply pass by. Here an alternative data-based approach is proposed, studying an access channel suffering from repeated siltation. As the access channel effectively serves as a sediment trap it can be used to study alongshore sediment transport rates. The access channel is frequently dredged and even more frequently surveyed. It is therefore suitable to make estimates of sediment transport on the time-scale of weeks to months.
STABILITY ANALYSIS OF OLD BREAKWATERS: CASE STUDIES OF FAILURES AND SUCCESSES
Authors: Allsop William , Bruce Tom
Published: September 2023

Until about 1930, analysis of wave loads on vertical breakwaters was based on trial and error. Russell(1) noted it was unfortunate that “the young engineer …should be left to be guided entirely by circumstances, without the aid of any one general principle.” Stevenson(2) noted “the engineer has always a difficulty in estimating the force of the waves with which he has to contend.” Wave force formulae by Sainflou(3) and Goda(4) improved design methods, but were 50 to 100 years too late for many ‘old’ breakwaters, and do not apply to many composite breakwaters – ignoring the seminal influence of shoals or mounds on wave breaking and impulsive loadings. This paper presents case studies using empirical methods developed over the last 20-30 years to calculate loads and stability of example ‘old’ breakwaters including: Wick (failed before completion); Alderney (multiple breaches during construction, and only survives to 1/2 of its original length); and Dover (survives with substantial Factors of Safety). The screening analysis(5) used empirical methods developed over the previous 20 years(10), summarised in the case studies(6,7). Methods used here are empirical (no numerical modelling) so that the calculations can easily be repeated by local engineers.
FIELD MEASUREMENTS OF WAVE INTERACTIONS WITH A DIKE ON A SHALLOW FORESHORE USING AN “ARTIFICIAL DIKE” CONCEPT
Authors: Gruwez Vincent , Willems Marc , Verwaest Toon , Hillewaere Jeroen , Decrop Boudewijn , Troch Peter
Published: September 2023

Low-lying countries typically have mildly-sloping beaches as part of their coastal defence system. Many countries in north-western Europe have coastal urban areas that rely on this type of defence system, which consists of a lowcrested impermeable sea dike with a relatively short promenade, and a long (nourished) beach in front that acts as a very/extremely shallow foreshore as defined by Hofland (2017). Along the cross-section of this hybrid beach-dike coastal defence system, storm waves are forced to undergo many transformation processes before they finally overtop the dike. These hydrodynamic processes include shoaling, sea and swell wave energy transfer to sub- and superharmonics via nonlinear wavewave interactions, wave dissipation by breaking and bottom friction, reflection against the dike, wave run-up and overtopping on the dike, bore impact on a wall or building, and finally reflection back towards the sea interacting with incoming bores on the promenade. Field measurements of all these processes at the same time are very challenging but necessary since these suffer from neither scale nor model effects. Field data are therefore crucial to evaluate design methodologies, which rely on physical and numerical modelling. This paper presents the field setup and the design features of the innovative artificial dike, unique in the world.
SCOUR AMPLIFICATION CAUSED BY STRUCTURE PROXIMITY IN EXTREME FLOWS
Authors: April-LeQuéré Philippe , Nistor Ioan , Mohammadian Abdolmajid
Published: September 2023

Forensic engineering field surveys of recent tsunamis (Saatcioglu et al. 2005, Chock et al. 2013) highlighted the importance of scour-related damage to structures located in coastal communities. To date, only a limited number of studies have investigated the interaction of extreme hydrodynamic flows and groups of structures, and none have studied the scour around multiple structures interacting with each other. One field example discussed by Yeh et al. (2013) documented flow concentration in between two tsunami-resistant buildings, leading to a deep scour hole between them and infrastructure failures onshore of the gap between the two buildings. This field example shows that multiple buildings, often crammed, lead to complex flow-structure interactions, leading to flow and scour either amplification or reduction depending on the relative position of the buildings. Nouri et al. (2010) and Thomas et al. (2015) investigated the flow velocity amplification caused by structures proximity, which concentrated the flow onto a downstream monitored structure. Their results informed the ASCE7 Ch.6 “Tsunami Loads and Effect” standard on flow velocity amplification caused by nearby structures. However, in this standard, there is currently no link between flow velocity amplification factors and their effects on scour around structures.
INFLUENCE FACTORS FOR CREST WIDTH, ROUGHNESS AND WAVE PERIOD ON OVERTOPPING OF RUBBLE MOUND STRUCTURES
Authors: Doorslaer Koen Van , Eldrup Mads Røge , Andersen Thomas Lykke , Meer Jentsje van der
Published: September 2023

New data was collected in the wave flumes of Ghent University and Aalborg University on wave overtopping discharges over rubble mound structures, focusing on the influence of (large) crest width and surface roughness in combination with wave period. Combining these new data with existing data, analysis has led to the improvement of the guidance for wave overtopping prediction. The data and full analysis are presented in Eldrup et al. (2022). The present extended abstract adds a comparison of this improved guidance to the Neural Network prediction by Formentin et al. (2017), and to the EurOtop (2018) prediction.
PERFORMANCE OF A TERMINAL GROIN – FOLLY BEACH, SC USA
Authors: Kana Timothy W. , Traynum Steven
Published: September 2023

A terminal groin was designed by the authors and constructed at Folly Beach County Park (South Carolina) in June 2013 to restore and stabilize a highly eroded spit. Groins are rarely permitted in the Carolinas and require extensive monitoring to assess impacts. In the case of the Folly Beach project, permits prescribe groin removal or periodic downcoast nourishment if erosion rates exceed pre-project rates. The common expectation is that groins will accelerate downcoast erosion because of sand trapping by the structure. Annual surveys have been performed by an independent surveyor, GEL Engineering (Charleston), and provide source data for the present analysis.
MODELLED AND OBSERVED IMPACT OF THE APRIL 2021 SOUTHERN OCEAN STORM
Authors: Meucci Alberto , Young Ian R. , Pepler Acacia , Rudeva Irina , Ribal Agustinus
Published: September 2023

Wind-wave extreme events are a major driver of coastal erosion (Lowe et al., 2010). As such, accurate estimates of metocean extremes are crucial to implement efficient and resilient coastal defense strategies. Global wave reanalysis datasets are commonly used to estimate wind and wave statistical properties for coastal engineering purposes. However, despite the impressive accuracy of such datasets in representing average significant wave height conditions (global biases against observations of less than 5 cm), models usually underestimate metocean extremes (Cavaleri et al. 2009; Cavaleri et al., 2020). To obtain an understanding of model performance under extreme conditions, we focus on a single storm event generated in the Southern Ocean on April 7th, 2021.
THE INFLUENCE OF CORAL REEF SPUR AND GROOVE MORPHOLOGY ON WAVE ATTENUATION
Authors: Perris Lachlan , Vila-Concejo Ana , Salles Tristan , Fellowes Thomas
Published: September 2023

Wave energy dissipation on coral reefs provides protection from coastal hazards to over 200 million people globally (Ferrario et al. 2014). The mechanisms of wave energy dissipation over the complex morphologies of the fore-reef slope have typically been overlooked (Duce et al. 2016). Here we focus on wave attenuation by the elongated troughs and depressions typical of fore-reef slopes known as spurs and grooves (SaGs).
ADVANCES IN UNSTRUCTURED WAVEWATCH III AND APPLICATIONS TO NEARSHORE WAVES
Authors: Smith Jane McKee , Hesser Tyler J. , Abdolali Ali , Bryant Mary Anderson , Roland Aron
Published: September 2023

The spectral wave generation and propagation model WAVEWATCH III (WW3) (WW3DG 2019) is undergoing rapid community development to extend capability and nearshore modeling applicability. An option for unstructured grids and implicit solution provides WW3 with the flexibility and efficiency to resolve complex shorelines and high-gradient wave zones to drive nearshore circulation, wave setup, and wave-driven sediment transport with multi-scale spatial coverage over approximately three orders of magnitude. A hybrid approach to parallelization uses spectral partitioning for advection in geographical space and domain decomposition for spectral advection and the source term integration. The advection part of wave action equation is integrated fully implicitly, and a new convergent action limiter derived from Komen et al. (1994) and Hersbach and Janssen (1999) is applied. The model is compatible with community-based coupling infrastructure to facilitate two-way coupling with circulation models for simulating hurricane storm surge and waves. Abdolali et al. (2020) evaluated WW3 enhancements on a large-scale numerical domain employing the new parallelization algorithm and implicit solver for unstructured grids and compared to the existing parallelization algorithm, domain decomposition, and robust explicit numerical solver of WW3 on both structured and unstructured grids. These new capabilities in the wave model push the limitations of the model, including minimum resolution (10s of meters), maximum number of model grid points (~2 million), and computational scalability, as well as better accuracy in contrast to the explicit scheme. This paper describes model enhancements and validation.
DISPLACEMENT BASED COMPARISON OF ACCELEROMETER AND LOW-COST GNSS WAVE BUOYS
Authors: Hansen Jeff , Cuttler Michael , Lowe Ryan , Young Ian , Ierodiaconou Daniel
Published: September 2023

Wave observations are critical in both coastal and deep water and feed into applications including improving ocean forecasting, industry activities, and marine safety. Wave buoys are typically the most robust method to collect in situ wave observations, particularly when real-time data is required, however they have historically been expensive to purchase and operate. With the advent of low-cost and small-format Global Navigation Satellite System (GNSS) based wave buoys (e.g. Sofar Spotter), the ability to collect wave observations across a wider range of locations is feasible at a much lower cost. However, understanding the performance and behaviors of small-format GNSS buoys (e.g. spectral response and mooring effects), against more traditional accelerometer based platforms, is critical to inform their use across research and industry applications. Here, we focus on comparing the Sofar Spotter to Datawell Waverider (Mark 3 and 4) buoys which are commonly deployed in operational networks globally. However, instead of comparing processed products (e.g. spectral statistics) produced by the buoy’s onboard software, we begin our analysis with the buoy displacement time series directly to ensure consistency. We also assess the detailed spectral properties/moments, the GNSS buoy performance in different conditions (locations), and with different mooring configurations.
Capital, educação pública e trabalho: estratégia neoliberal como legitimadora da precarização do trabalho no Novo Ensino Médio na Paraíba
Authors: Franca Diego
Published: September 2023

Este artigo analisa as relações entre capital, educação pública e trabalho no contexto das transformações estruturais da acumulação. Assim, a ofensiva neoliberal torna o complexo da educação em nicho lucrativo para conglomerados capitalistas, bem como usa-o como catalisador da ideologia hegemônica. A abordagem marxiana, aqui adotada, articula as tendências gerais da crise do capital às particularidades curriculares da educação paraibana. A pesquisa bibliográfica, documental e as experiências nas formações continuadas para a implementação do Novo Ensino Médio consistem nos procedimentos metodológicos, que permitem entender as mudanças no ensino público como expressão do projeto hegemônico voltado a adaptar as relações sociais a um mundo da precarização.
Pesquisa em educação e luta de classes: o método de Marx na crítica às reformas educacionais globais
Authors: Accioly Inny Bello
Published: September 2023

O artigo defende a atualidade da crítica de Marx à Economia Política, tanto como método para analisar a Economia Política da Educação que está por trás das reformas educacionais globais, quanto para lutar contra elas. O texto apresenta a crítica de Marx aos autores clássicos e o método que emergiu da crítica; apresenta uma crítica da Economia Política da Educação, a problemática do aumento da produtividade do trabalhador, a teoria do capital humano e a divisão internacional do trabalho; e apresenta elementos metodológicos a serem considerados na pesquisa em políticas educacionais, tomando como estudo as reformas educacionais em Moçambique. Conclui que, no atual estágio da divisão internacional do trabalho, a educação está mergulhada em contradições.
Movimento social de resistência à reforma do ensino médio: análise das ocupações estudantis no Espírito Santo 2015-2016
Authors: Leal Fernando , Lima Marcelo
Published: September 2023

Analisamos as ocupações de escolas no Brasil e no estado do Espírito Santo em 2015 e 2016. Com base em categorias como Estado, bloco no poder, hegemonia e guerra de movimento e de posições evidenciamos por entrevistas e análise de publicações que, embora a ampla articulação das frações de classe dominante tenha combatido o movimento social com êxito na aprovação da Lei nº 13.415/17 e da EC n.95/16, os estudantes conseguiram ampliar forças, engajar novos sujeitos, garantir recuos na lei da reforma do ensino médio e, em nível local, colocar em xeque a composição do bloco no poder e afetar a legitimidade do programa Escola Viva, atrasando e descontinuando a implementação da reforma.
Militarização e desmilitarização das escolas públicas brasileiras: contradições e resistências
Authors: Saraiva Ana Pontes
Published: September 2023

Este artigo discute o programa de militarização das escolas públicas brasileiras, por meio do Programa Nacional das Escolas Cívico-militares (Pecim), criado em 2019, sob o enfoque dos movimentos de resistência a esse modelo e suas fragilidades, em diversos aspectos do Direito Constitucional e Educacional. Oferta breve análise dos aspectos jurídicos e pedagógicos conflituosos, delineia ações de resistência de comunidades escolares, entidades ligadas à educação, coletivos e sindicatos em relação a esse cenário com a urgência de um plano no atual governo federal, a despeito de seu anúncio de interrupção, para finalização real dessa experiência sem novos prejuízos às comunidades escolares e à sociedade. Parte da educação escolar como direito humano fundamental na Constituição Federal. Também procura apresentar as razões das ações de resistência àquele modelo, tendo o cuidado de detalhar que as iniciativas de militarização apresentaram peculiaridades e diferenças institucionais em diferentes estados e municípios.
Vulnerability of Older Adults to Government Impersonation Scams
Authors: Yu Lei , Mottola Gary , Kieffer Christine N. , Mascio Robert , Valdes Olivia , Bennett David A. , Boyle Patricia A.
Published: September 2023

Importance

Financial fraud and scams targeting older adults are on the rise and pose serious public health and economic threats. Research on the vulnerability of older adults to fraud and scams relies almost exclusively on self-reported data, which have several intrinsic limitations. Thus, how older adults truly respond to fraud attempts remains unclear.

Objective

To explore the vulnerability of older adults to a US government impersonation scam.

Design, Setting, and Participants

This cross-sectional study, conducted from October to December 2021 among communities in the greater Chicago metropolitan area, was framed as a fictitious government agency reaching out to older adults about a potential compromise of personal information relevant to their Social Security and Medicare benefits. Participants were older adults participating in the Rush Memory and Aging Project, an ongoing cohort study of chronic conditions of aging. Data analysis was performed from February to August 2023.

Exposures

Participants were exposed to deceptive materials through mailers, emails, and phone calls by a live agent.

Main Outcomes and Measures

Based on the phone call data, participants were classified into 3 groups: no engagement (participants who did not answer the phone or call in), engagement (those who answered or called in but were skeptical about the legitimacy of the outreach and did not give away personal information), and conversion (participants who answered or called in without skepticism, or confirmed that they did not change their personal information, or provided the last 4 digits of their Social Security number).

Results

A total of 644 older adults (501 [77.8%] female, 143 [22.2%] male), with a mean (SD) age of 85.6 (7.5) years, were included. A total of 441 (68.5%) participants did not engage, 97 (15.1%) engaged but raised skepticism, and 106 (16.4%) converted. Older adults who engaged but with skepticism had the highest cognition and financial literacy, while those in the conversion group had the lowest scam awareness. No differences were observed in psychological and other behavioral measures by the levels of engagement.

Conclusions and Relevance

In this cross-sectional study using a behavioral experiment that mimicked a real-world imposter scam, a sizable number of older adults engaged without skepticism. Results suggest that many older adults, including those without cognitive impairment, are vulnerable to fraud and scams.