bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Computer Simulation of the Mechanical Properties of Nonwoven Fabrics
Authors: Britton Peter N. , Sampson Arthur J. , Gettys W. Edward
Published: March 2008

A third feasibility study of the computer simulation method for determining the mechanical properties of nonwoven fabrics is presented. A new, more nearly realistic model fabric is presented. Details of the generation of the model are given. A cluster analysis is performed in relaxing the displaced fabric to its strained equilibrium con figuration. The model fabric is strained to the yield point, the final configuration consisting of two disconnected parts.
Experimental Detection of Capillary Adhesion Forces Between Single Textile Fibers
Authors: Barker Roger L. , Shin Dong-Hwa
Published: March 2008

A torsion balance arrangement housed in a specially designed chamber was used to study the effect of atmospheric humidity on the normal adhesion of single polyester, nylon, cotton, and glass fibers, which were contacted at right angles. Marked increase in fiber-to-fiber attraction detected at humidities in excess of 60% is attributed to capillary condensation from the vapor phase. Experimental results are interpreted in light of what is known about capillary condensation in small pores and the adsorption of moisture onto fiber surfaces.
Chemical and Physical Structure of Neps in Selected Nonwoven Fabrics
Authors: Jakes K.A. , Umble B.A.
Published: March 2008

The physical and chemical structure of neps from two nonwoven fabrics, a 50-50 blend of two polyester fibers and a 75-25 blend of rayon and polypropylene, were studied by scanning electron microscopy and fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The neps in both fabrics are distinct from the fabric itself and are encased in two fabric layers. Some neps contain a fiber blend similar to the unnepped fabric, while others contain a significant quantity of binder. Identification of nep composition may be useful in determining the causes of their formation and the means to reduce their occurrence.
Determination of Iron and Copper in Textile Materials by Anodic Stripping Voltametry
Authors: Katović Drago , Piuac Ivan , Soljačić Ivo
Published: March 2008

Heavy metals at low concentrations can have a damaging effect in chemical and optical bleaching of textile materials. The application of anodic stripping voltametry for determining copper and iron in textile materials is described. The preparation of the samples of cotton, wool, polyester, polyamide, and polyacrylics, and procedures for determining Cu and Fe in these materials are reported.
Cellular Debris in the Grease of Wool Fibers
Authors: Orwin Donald F.G. , Woods Joy L.
Published: March 2008

Cellular debris originating from the wool follicle, its appendages, and the epidermis has been shown by transmission electron microscopy to be dispersed in wool grease. Little interaction of the debris with the undamaged wool fiber surface was observed; however, damaged fiber surfaces invariably had cell debris adhering to them. A negative correlation was found between the protein content of wool washings and the clean wool yield.
A Generalized Model of Plain Woven Fabric
Authors: Leaf G.A.V. , Anandjiwala R.D.
Published: March 2008

A generalized model of plain woven fabric is proposed, based on a more realistic approximation of yarn bending behavior than that previously used. Peirce's rigid thread model is a special case. Approximate formulae for calculating the ratio of crimp height to thread spacing and weave angle are developed.
n-Butanol Assisted Dyeing of Acid Dyes on Nylon 66
Authors: Shah C.D. , Jain D.K.
Published: March 2008

Seven acid dyes were applied on nylon 66 from aqueous and n-butanol assisted aqueous dyebaths. n-Butanol caused disaggregation of the dyes in solution and also on the substrate and increased the diffusion rate of the dyes in the substrate and lightfastness as well. The increase in lightfastness was attributed to greater penetration of the dyes in the substrate.
Tensile Properties of Aromatically and Aliphatically Modified Wool Fibers Under Alkaline Conditions as a Function of Temperature
Authors: Ellison M.S. , Zeronian S.H.
Published: March 2008

The effect of temperature and pH on the tenacity, elongation at break, initial modulus, yield point, and yield slope was studied for untreated raw wool fibers, acetylated wool fibers, and phenylisocyanate treated wool fibers immersed in water. The mechanical property data is interpreted in terms of the temperature and pH dependence of the formation of lanthionine and lysinoalanine in the untreated raw wool, the stabilization of the cystine linkage and inhibition of lysinoalanine formation in the phenylisocyanate treated wool, and the lack of cystine stabilization and inhibition of both lysinoalanine and lanthionine formation in the acetylated wool. In addition, the influence of the α-β transition of the keratin structure on yield behavior is discussed.
Kinetics of Bleaching Agent Decomposition in a Single-Stage Preparatory Process
Authors: Sukumar N. , Gulrajani M.L.
Published: March 2008

In a single-stage preparatory process, hydrogen peroxide decomposes at a faster rate in the presence of pH buffers, whereby the activation energy is lowered. A relatively slower rate of peroxide decomposition is achieved in fabrics containing acrylic size. The damage to cellulose assessed in terms of the copper number and carboxyl content is slightly higher for acrylic-sized fabrics than starch-sized fabrics.
Dynamic Surface Wetness of Fabrics in Relation to Clothing Comfort
Authors: Scheurell D.M. , Spivak S.M. , Hollies N.R.S.
Published: March 2008

Moisture from perspiration collects in and passes through clothing as worn, and the properties of clothing fabrics influence both the collection and passage of this moisture. The selection and measure of moisture properties that relate to comfort in wear has proved to be more difficult than first perceived. Dynamic surface wetness of fabrics has been found to correlate with skin contact comfort in wear for a variety of fabric types, suggesting that mobility of thin films of condensed moisture is an important element of wearing comfort. This paper discusses how dynamic surface wetness is measured and calibrated against color standards used in the measurement.
Analysis of the Single Bar Warp Knitted Structure Using an Energy Minimization Technique
Authors: Hart K. , De Jong S. , Postle R.
Published: March 2008

Some computed results of an energy method of analysis applied to single bar warp knitted structures (Part I) are presented. They are compared with experimental results and previous models of the warp knit structures in the literature. The single bar warp knit structures are characterized by a complex interlacing pattern and relatively little restriction to changes and redistribution of yam loop shape as the fabric is stretched. Computer results show that the yam loops are oriented to lie perpendicular to the fabric plane when the fabric is stretched. At the same time the fabric thickness is reduced. The distributed forces acting along the yams within a unit repeat of the single bar warp knitted structures are more peaked than those of the weft knitted fabrics. The forces of contact arising from the neighboring but not interlocking yarns within the repeat of the warp knit structure are significant. The single bar warp knit structures are compared to the weft knitted and woven fabrics by means of a redefined tightness parameter.
Theory of the Interferometric Determination of the Refractive Indices of Multiple-Index Fibers Having Irregular Transverse Cross Sections
Authors: Wilkes James M.
Published: March 2008

A formula is derived that relates interferometer and transverse area measurements to the indices of refraction of a multiple-index fiber having an irregular transverse cross section composed of irregularly shaped regions characterized by these refractive indices. From this formula, an equation is obtained for the average index of refraction of such a fiber. Two methods are suggested for recovering the separate indices of refraction from equations based on the general formula.
Investigating the Structure of Nylon Fibers by Measuring the Diffusion Coefficient of Acid Dyes
Authors: Kobsa Henry , Herold John , Jones Carl M.
Published: March 2008

The diffusion coefficient of CI acid blue 40 at 25°C was measured in samples of a nylon BCF carpet yam that had been heatset at 100% RH at temperatures ranging from 30 to 170°C. The diffusion coefficient at first dropped modestly as the heatsetting temperature increased, went through a shallow minimum, and then rose exponentially several orders of magnitude as the melting point of the yam was approached. Some speculations about the structural changes responsible for this behavior are offered.
Effect of Blend Level, Fiber Type, and Caustic Concentration on the Texturization of Jute-Proplon Blended Yarns
Authors: Gupta N.P. , Majumdar A. , Mathew M.D. , Sur D. , Roy D. , Dasgupta P.C.
Published: March 2008

The effect of different levels of jute and proplon fiber, caustic concentration, and treatment temperature on the texturization of jute-proplon blended yams is discussed. Initially, the increase in the nonshrink polypropylene component improved yam bulk and breaking extension. The maximum increase was for the 60/40 jute-proplon blend, and further increase in the nonshrink component did not improve this. Caustic concentration and fiber type had a pronounced effect on texturized yam properties: 10% was equally as effective as 18% NaOH solution at 10°C. On texturization, white jute-proplon blended yam showed improved bulk and stretch compared to tossa jute-proplon blended yam. The polypropylene fiber denier also had significant effect on texturized yam properties.
Temperature-Adaptable Fabrics
Authors: Vigo Tyrone L. , Frost Cynthia M.
Published: March 2008

Treatment of polyester, nylon 66, cotton, and wool fabrics with aqueous solutions of polyethylene glycol phase change materials and of plastic crystal compounds by a conventional pad-dry procedure produced modified fabrics with thermal storage and release properties 2-2.5 times greater than those of untreated fabrics at the same temperature intervals. These modified or temperature-adaptable fabrics are chemically impregnated with phase change or plastic crystal substances that impart balanced thermal storage and release properties at various temperature ranges. Application of another plastic crystal compound in aqueous solution to the fabrics under these con ditions was not suitable, since it sublimed during the fabric drying process. Fiber type and heating rate appeared to have little effect on the overall heat content or thermal performance of the treated fabrics. As in earlier studies, thermal storage and release properties of the modified fabrics were reproducible after 5 cycles and remained es sentially constant for at least 50 heating and cooling cycles.
Chemical Analyses of Washed, Bleached, and Scoured and Bleached Cotton Fiber
Authors: Domelsmith L.N. , Berni R.J. , Cocke J.B.
Published: March 2008

The chemical compositions of four cottons from a 1982 washed cotton study (MQ- 111) conducted by the Industry/Government/Union Task Force for Byssinosis Pre vention were established by proximate and elemental analyses. The four cotton samples were an unwashed control grown in Mississippi and the corresponding washed, bleached, and scoured/bleached processed cottons. The proximate analyses consisted of serial solvent extractions that furnished data on moisture, water extractables, ethanol extractables, ethanolamine extractables, cellulose, and insoluble residue. Ash produc tion was also measured for the four cotton lint samples. Elemental analyses were performed by x-ray fluorescence for potassium, calcium, magnesium, silicon, phos phorus, and sulfur, and by Kjeldahl analysis for nitrogen. The analyses demonstrate that the water wash and the scouring procedure are responsible for substantially in creasing the purity of the cotton fiber. The level of water extractables was reduced by the water washing process, while the level of ethanolamine extractables was reduced by the scouring process. The washed cotton sample contained much smaller amounts of potassium and magnesium compounds than the unwashed control. Ash was reduced to approximately the same level by each of the washing processes.

The nitrogen and calcium contents dropped steadily with increasing severity of processing conditions. The changes in chemical composition of cotton lint on pro cessing are related to the layered structured of the cotton fiber. The Cotton Quality Research Station, USDA, and the Division of Respiratory Disease Studies, NIOSH, have determined the effects that dusts from these cottons have on pulmonary function in a group of human volunteers through measurements of the change in forced ex piratory volume in one second (FEV1) on exposure to dust generated by carding the cotton samples. All three processed cottons were considerably less active than the unwashed control. Many of the chemical composition parameters showed a marked decrease with water washing alone.
Determination of Free Formaldehyde in Durable Press Fabric: Comparison of Cold Sulfite Method with Headspace Gas Chromatography
Authors: Kamath Y.K. , Hornby S.B. , Weigmann H.-D.
Published: March 2008

Comparison of free formaldehyde contents obtained by the cold sulfite and headspace gas chromatography methods at 25°C indicates surprisingly good agreement at low formaldehyde concentrations (<500 μg/g fabric). At higher concentrations, the agreement is less satisfactory, the cold sulfite method giving considerably lower values than headspace gas chromatography and the actual amount present. The agreement extends to durable press fabrics with considerable N-methylol content, suggesting that the low temperature and the short reaction time of the cold sulfite method eliminate contributions from N-methylol hydrolysis.
Never Dried Cotton Fibers as a Meaningful Expression of Maturity
Authors: Peeters M.-C. , De Langhe I. , Wusmans J. , De Langhe E.
Published: March 2008

A novel microscopical technique was used for direct measurement of the dimensions of never dried fibers, fibers swollen with water, and fibers swollen in sodium hydroxide. An extensive comparative study revealed that the original state of never dried fibers cannot be recovered when using seed cotton or bale cotton. No clear relation could be found between parameters of never dried fibers and those of fibers swollen with sodium hydroxide, so a distinction should be made between the original maturity of never dried fibers and the technological maturity of seed cotton or bale cotton fibers.
A Numerical Model of the Combined Diffusion of Heat and Water Vapor Through Clothing
Authors: Farnworth B.
Published: March 2008

A model of combined heat and water vapor transport in multi-layered clothing is presented. Transport of heat by conduction and radiation and vapor transport by diffusion are included; heat and mass transport by forced convection are not. The calculations are performed in a time-dependent mode and compared to experiments performed on a sweating hot plate in a nonsteady state mode. Illustrative applications of the model and experiments display effects due to condensation and evaporation of water within the clothing and absorption and desorption by hygroscopic materials. Generally, it appears that all the observed heat loss from the hot plate can be explained in terms of the three mechanisms and the interactions between them. For the most part, the time-dependent treatment is necessary to understand the interactions. Water from sweat may accumulate within clothing because of condensation or absorption by hygroscopic materials and subsequently evaporate after the sweating has ceased. In both phases, the condensation, absorption, or evaporation substantially influences the heat loss. In the case of clothing that has been previously wetted by external means, the heat loss continuously changes as the clothing dries.
Cellulose Packing Density in the Secondary Wall of Never Dried Cotton Fibers
Authors: Peeters M.-C. , De Langhe E.
Published: March 2008

This quantitative study of the cellulose content of secondary walls of never dried cotton fibers uses a technique based on colorimetry. The study reveals that the density of cellulose, i.e., the mass of cellulose per volume of secondary wall, is identical for all never dried cotton fibers and independent of the genotype. Various plant growth conditions do not influence this cellulose density. For samples of never dried fibers with a given mean length, the mean secondary wall thickness is an accurate indicator of the amount of cellulose produced in these fibers.
Flexural Bending Fatigue of Raw and Chemically Treated Jute
Authors: Kundu S.K.
Published: March 2008

Flexural bending fatigue of raw, mercerized, and sodium chlorite (Textone) bleached jute fiber was studied. Mercerized jute fiber could withstand a greater number of flex cycles before rupture compared to raw jute, while the modal height of the fatigue cycle histogram showed a sharp fall with bleaching of jute fibers.
An Examination of the Fibrogram
Authors: Krowicki R.S. , Duckett K.E.
Published: March 2008

The theory of the fibrogram has been derived based on the probability of randomly catching and holding a fiber. The amount axis has been shown to be proportional to the relative mass when related to the original specimen. Tangential equations are used to show that theoretically, for a length l or longer, the proportional mass, the mean length by number, the relative number, and the mean length by mass of fibers in the sample can be obtained from the fibrogram, as well as the number and mass arrays. Finally, the theoretical percentage of fiber by number or by mass extending a length l or longer from a clamped random sliver of the sample is obtainable from the fibrogram.
Effects of Humidity, Ageing, Annealing, and Tensile Loads on the Torsional Damping of Wool Fibers
Authors: Phillips D.G.
Published: March 2008

The effects of humidity, ageing, annealing, and tensile loads on the torsional damping properties of wool fibers have been measured. The torsional damping increased with humidity and decreased with ageing and annealing. Wetting removed the effects of ageing and annealing, and no residual change to the fiber torsion properties was retained after annealing and wetting. Torsional damping in Merino fibers was very sensitive to applied stress and tensile loading produced changes in torsional damping similar to the de-aging effects of wetting. This effect suggests that high torsional damping following tensile stress is related to mechanical de-aging of the matrix in the wool fiber.
Scanning Electron Microscope Observations of Nonwoven Fabrics from Jute and Other Textiles
Authors: Das B.K. , Debnath C.R. , Ray P.K.
Published: March 2008

Scanning electron microscope observations have been made of needle punched and adhesive bonded nonwoven fabrics from jute, coir, goat hair, wool, viscose, polypro pylene, and acrylic fibers. Fibers in the needle punched fabric form layered structures, and their arrangement in the fabric depends on the type of fibers and mode of needling. With adhesive bonded fabrics, both point and web bonds are found, and in some fabrics the fiber surface is completely obscured by the adhesive material so that the surface structure of the fibers is not visible.
Structural Features and Luster in Jute Fiber
Authors: Bag S.C. , Ray P.K. , Das B.K. , Mukerjee A.K.
Published: March 2008

The luster of jute fibers has been measured as a contrast ratio of reflected light and diffusely scattered light. The relation of luster with cell wall thickness, fibrillar orien tation, and crystallite orientation of fibers has been discussed.
Pyrolysis Gas Chromatography of Wool
Authors: Marmer William N. , Magidman Paul , Carr Christopher M.
Published: March 2008

An investigation determined the feasibility of detecting and quantitating commer cially applied agents on wool by pyrolysis gas chromatography. Characteristic peaks were generated from benzoylated wool, from wool treated with the insect-resist agent Mitin FF and from wool dyed with Lissamine yellow 2G, thus demonstrating that the technique is suitable for detecting the presence of such agents. Two approaches were used for the quantitative analysis of the treatment and the dyeing using the data from the resulting pyrograms. One approach used peak area response per microgram of treated wool and the other used peaks generated from wool's tyrosine as internal standards. Although the latter approach gave a better linear fit, inverse regression analysis demonstrated that the former approach was most suitable for predicting agent add-on (percent on weight of fiber).
Theoretical and Experimental Opening Sizes of Heat-Bonded Geotextiles
Authors: Lombard Gérard , Rollin André , Wolff Claude
Published: March 2008

The structure of nonwoven heat-bonded geotextiles is analyzed using a geometrical probability approach. An expression of the pore size distribution of these filters is derived from basic manufacturing parameters. Two experimental techniques used to evaluate fabric opening size—dry sieving of glass beads and hydrodynamic sieving of soils—are investigated and the results compared to the calculated opening size obtained using the pore size distribution equation. Excellent agreement has been found between the calculated opening size and the filtration opening size measured with the hydro dynamic sieving technique.
Weave Room of the Future
Authors: Jayaraman Sundaresan , Malhotra Rajeev
Published: March 2008

On-line production monitoring of textile manufacturing operations is used increas ingly, but to fully benefit from this trend in automation, the monitored information should be used for real-time decision making. We have investigated the required changes in the more common methods of workload allocation in weaving, and we propose a different approach to workload allocation, called "team weaving." Through a computer simulation of the weave room operations, we have analyzed the advantages of the proposed approach over current practices.
Spirality of Knitted Fabrics
Authors: De Araujo M.D. , Smith G.W.
Published: March 2008

We have investigated spirality in both dry and fully relaxed jersey fabrics produced from a series of relaxed spun yams. From this study, it is clear that spirality depends on feed density, machine cut, and loop shape, but the magnitude of spirality can be offset by the selection of yarn twist direction. In addition, we have shown that a reduction in yam "torque" can only partially reduce fabric spirality, but the use of plied yams and plaiting techniques may completely eliminate it. In three-end fleece fabrics, spirality can be substantially reduced by balancing the twist direction in the face and binder yams. We have also developed a theory to explain the mechanism of loop inclination and loop rotation in single knit fabrics.
Spirality of Knitted Fabrics
Authors: De Araujo M.D. , Smith G.W.
Published: March 2008

We have studied the effect of yarn spinning technology of the spirality of jersey fabrics in the dry and fully relaxed states for 100% cotton and 50/50 cotton/polyester blend yarns. From this study, we have concluded that 50/50 blend yarns produce less spirality than 100% cotton yarns. Furthermore, it seems that each spinning technology influences the degree of spirality in fabrics. For all practical purposes, spirality was virtually eliminated for some of the 50/50 blend air jet and rotor spun yarns that were used.
An Integrated Approach to Dynamic Analysis of the Ring Spinning Process
Authors: Batra Subhash K. , Ghosh Tushar K. , Zeidman Mishu I.
Published: March 2008

The dynamics of the ring spinning process has been re-analyzed as a coupled set of subproblems; the solutions are obtained numerically. The analyses in Part I and II of this series deal with the case of an uncontrolled balloon. In Part I the effects of air drag as well as gravitational and Coriolis accelerations are ignored. In Part II the effects of air drag are included. These analyses differ from the earlier ones in their choice of the relevant boundary conditions; the ones used here are presumed more realistic. Shapes of the spinning balloons are derived from the conditions of dynamic equilibrium of the yam, from pig-tail to wind-point, as well as that of the traveler. Non-dimen sionalization of the problem, is based on two physical lengths, which allows easy comparison of the balloon shapes for widely different dynamic conditions (including collapsed balloons) on the same plot. Tension distributions along the yarn path can be predicted. Similarly, mass of the traveler required for a specified yam tension at the pig-tail can be calculated. Air drag is found to be particularly useful in controlling the shape and size of the balloon. The numerical solution procedures developed can be used to explore the regions of instability of the balloon.
Crosslinking of Cotton Cellulose in the Presence of Mixed Catalysts
Authors: Chen Cheng-Chi
Published: March 2008

A crosslinking treatment is reported for cotton fabric with dimethyloldihydroxy ethyleneurea (DMDHEU) in the presence of mixed and conventional catalysts using a pad-dry-cure process. The crosslinked fabric and a control were studied for various physicochemical properties by standard methods. The distribution of crosslinks per anhydroglucose. unit and length of crosslinks were calculated from formaldehyde and nitrogen content values. The data on formaldehyde and nitrogen content, physical properties, number of crosslinks, and length of crosslinks are discussed. The number and length of crosslinks increase with increased resin concentration in the pad bath. Self-condensation of resin is evident for fabric treated in the presence of the mixed catalysts; in addition, this phenomenon in the presence of aluminum sulfate/tartaric acid is higher than with aluminum sulfate/citric acid. The relationships between various fabric properties are also considered.
Development of Hairiness of Sized Warp Yarns During Flexabrasive Wear
Authors: Friedman Henry L. , Zhou Yong Y. , Miller Bernard
Published: March 2008

Polyester/cotton yarns sized with different quantities of polyvinyl alcohol were subjected to pneumatic and microscopic measurements to quantify hairiness before and after flexabrasion. For the nonabraded sized yams, overall cross-sectional areas, core areas, and hairiness all tended to decrease with increased size content. As a re sult of abrasion, the core area tended to return to that of the nonsized yarn. Hairi ness tended to decrease during the earlier cycles of abrasion, after which it increased. Although hairiness and its rate of development with flexabrasion decreased with in creased size content, differences at greater than 10% size add-on were small. Follow ing a few preliminary comparisons between pneumatic and microscopic measure ments, a method was found to quantify changes in hairiness based on pneumatic measurements alone.
Correlation Between Copolymer Characteristics, Conditions of Fiber Formation, and Mechanical Properties of PAN Carbon Fiber Precursor
Authors: Mikolajczyk Teresa , Krucińska Izabella
Published: March 2008

We present an..analysis of the copolymer molecular weight distribution effect on the mechanical properties of polyacrylonitrile (PAN) fibers. The conditions of the fiber forming process are constant for each of six copolymers. The analysis shows that the highest values of Young's modulus are obtained for copolymers that contain 70% by weight of fractions having intrinsic viscosities that range from 1 and 3. The tensile strength of the fibers depends on deformations occurring during the fiber forming process rather than on the molecular weight distribution of the copolymer.
Influence of Spinning Dope Additives and Spin Bath Temperature on the Structure and Physical Properties of Acrylic Fibers
Authors: Bajaj Pushpa , Surya Kumari Munuktla  , Vaidya A.A. , Gupta D.C.
Published: March 2008

We have studied the effect of spinning dope additives and spin bath temperatures on the structure and properties of wet spun acrylic fibers. The dope additives were secondary cellulose acetate, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl acetate, and glycerol. Amounts of 5% (w/w) of each of these were added to the spinning dope of acrylonitrile vinyl acetate sodium methallyl sulphonate (92.7:7.0:0.3 by wt) terpolymer, and wet spun using 45:50 (v/v) of dimethyl acetamide : water, varying the spin bath temper ature from 10 to 60°C. Fibers with 5% secondary cellulose acetate as an additive exhibited low density values, highest moisture regain (2.6% against 1.6% of the parent acrylic fiber), and a three- to four-fold increase in water retention values. The tenacity was greatest in fibers with 5% polyvinyl acetate, added and spun at a 45°C spin bath temperature. We also studied the microstructure of the protofibers and the final fibers using both optical and elecqon microscopy for a better understanding of the effect of spin bath temperature on physicomechanical properties.
Tearing of Fastenings Through Woven Fabrics: A Simple Theory
Authors: Lloyd D.W.
Published: March 2008

The problem of fastenings tearing through woven fabrics, whether coated or un coated, arises in most fabric end uses, although it is particularly important in engi neering and industrial applications. A simple theory is developed to explain the main factors influencing the force that is required to tear a fastening through a woven fabric. Two classes of the problem can be distinguished—tearing along warp or weft directions and tearing on the bias. The first case is dealt with here; the second case is covered in Part II.
Influence of Water in Wool Treatments with Sodium Methoxide in 2-Propanol Medium to Improve Shrink Resistance
Authors: Juliá R. , Solá J. , Erra P.
Published: March 2008

The use of sodium methoxide or sodium hydroxide at low concentrations in a 2- propanol medium can be considered as a treatment for substantial shrinkage reduction in wool fabrics. In order to determine which experimental conditions are the most closely related to the shrink-resist effect, we studied the influence of water content, reagent concentration, and treatment time, as well as the percent shrinkage, whiteness index, alkali solubility, cystine content, and reagent exhaustion. The results show that the presence of water in this kind of treatment is especially important. Different effects on wool fabrics are obtained with sodium methoxide treatments in a 2-propanol me dium, depending on whether water is present in either the treatment liquor or the fibers.
Effect of Fiber Translucency on the Color of Blends of Precolored Fibers
Authors: Burlone Dominick A.
Published: March 2008

Colored fibers can be blended together to create a spectrum of formulated yarn colors much like a paint formulator creates custom paint colors by blending dispersions of individual pigments. Unlike paint formulations, however, it is not possible to obtain a completely homogenized, uniform color with fibers because they remain separate entities on a macroscopic scale. When viewed under conditions that permit spatial or temporal integration of the discrete colors by the eye, one might expect the colors to combine much the way, for example, colored dots do on a television screen. This would require a simple weighted average or additive sort of color mixing mathematics, . but fiber blend colors follow much more closely the mathematics of subtractive color mixing, specifically the two-constant Kubelka-Munk theory. Simple experiments were performed to provide a better understanding of the color mixing mechanism operable in blends of differently colored fibers and a visual demonstration of that mechanism. The experiments show that both visual and spectrophotometric responses are linearly (additively) related to the component yarn colors in the blend only in the special cases of opaque component fibers or translucent fibers where there is no fiber overlap. For overlapping translucent fibers, the original component yarn colors form a mix according to the mathematics of the two-constant Kubelka-Munk theory, which is then additively integrated into the final blended yarn color. The two-constant Kubelka-Munk theory can be used over a wide range of fiber transparencies and degrees of overlap and can even approximate the color of opaque or non-overlapping fiber blends. Additive mixing mathematics, on the other hand, deviates rapidly from the actual visual or spectro photometric response as fiber translucency or overlap increases.
Role of Interfacial Friction and Lubrication in Yarn and Fabric Mechanics
Authors: Briscoe B.J. , Motamedi F.
Published: March 2008

We describe an experimental study of the effects of various surface treatments on the frictional and tensile properties of cotton and aramid single yams and also on the mechanical properties of fabrics woven from these yams. Lubrication of the yarn or fabric generally reduces those parameters that quantitatively describe the properties mentioned above. We present values for the coefficient of friction, the tensile modulus of single yams, and also specific parameters that describe the way in which these yams respond when they are pulled out of the corresponding fabrics. We report the behavior of both untreated and lubricated yams and their fabrics, interpreting the reduction in frictional and tensile parameters of the yams and the increase in the compliance of the weaves in terms of the changes brought about in interfilament and interyarn friction.
Surfactants in Wool Chlorination
Authors: De La Maza A. , Sanchez Leal J. , Parra J.L. , Comelles F.
Published: March 2008

The aim of this work has been to undertake a systematic study of wool chemical reactivity against sodium hypochlorite solutions at different pH levels in the absence and presence of surfactant solutions. The degradative effect on wool fibers of the oxidative treatments has been considered in terms of the cysteic acid formed as a consequence of cystine residue rupture. In addition, the adsorption of the surfactant by the fibers during the chlorination treatments has been determined, in an attempt to correlate both parameters (cysteic acid and surfactant adsorption) in order to op timize the process.
Tensile Fatigue Behavior of Staple Yarns
Authors: Anandjiwala Rajesh D. , Goswami Bhuvenesh C.
Published: March 2008

The failure of warp yarns on a loom is often caused by repeated cyclical elongation at small stresses well below the breaking point applied under static load. The phenom enon, commonly known as fatigue, is caused by the gradually diminishing resistance of the material, attributable to cumulative damage. Generally, there is no prior indi cation of impending failure due to fatigue. In this work, we have studied the fatigue behavior of warp yarn under cyclical elongation accompanied by abrasion action as measured on a Sulzer-Ruti Webtester on the basis of three criteria—failure, damage rate, and visual appearance. Fatigue behavior expressed in terms of cycles at failure exhibits a wide scatter, displaying a pattern that deviates from normal distribution. A three-parameter Weibull distribution fitted to experimental results consistently displays a unimodal pattern. The rate of fatigue damage expressed in terms of loss in tensile property indicators has proven useful in assessing the fatigue-sustaining capacity of yarn and thereby predicting impending failure. SEM photographs display the abrasion fatigue damage inflicted on the fine structure of yarns and fibers. We have systematically studied, the effect of fatigue parameters that characterize the intensity of fatigue action, such as base tension, speed of fatiguing, abrasion pin position, and strain amplitude. Increasing intensity of fatigue action results in rapid yarn deterioration. Base tension and abrasion pin deflection have profound effects on fatigue. Fatiguing speed and strain amplitude tend to accelerate yarn deterioration, though the experimental results show a slower rate but greater variability. Representing fatigue data based on failure criterion in terms only of characteristic lifetime, which is one of the three parameters of the Weibull distribution, is not enough. A representation in terms of complete distribution yields more useful information about the extent of dispersion and the extreme value in the experimental results.
Numerical Control of a Continuous Infrared Dryer
Authors: Forget Christine , Broadbent Arthur D. , Thérien Normand
Published: March 2008

This study compares the relative performance of distinct microcomputer control algorithms for drying a textile sheet in an infrared oven. The process responses to changes in the set point as well as perturbations in the traveling velocity of the sheet and the inlet humidity of the sheet are analyzed. Feedback, feedforward, and hybrid control algorithms are considered. The results indicate that the performance of the feedback control algorithm is negatively affected by the time delay associated with the traveling of the sheet in the dryer. The feedforward control algorithm exhibits more rapid dynamics, but falls short of reaching the set point because of model imperfection. The hybrid control algorithm, combining the feedback and feedforward controls, gives the best results overall.
Effect of pH on Nonformaldehyde Durable Press Finishing of Cotton Fabric: FT-IR Spectroscopy Study
Authors: Yang Charles Q.
Published: March 2008

Esterification of cotton cellulose by a polycarboxylic acid proceeds in two steps: the formation of a five-member cyclic anhydride intermediate by the dehydration of two adjacent carboxyl groups of the polycarboxylic acid, and the reaction between cellulose and that intermediate to form an ester. We studied the effect of finish bath pH on anhydride intermediate formation using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. Our previous research demonstrated that esterification of cellulose by a polycarboxylic acid was not acid-catalyzed. The infrared spectroscopy data presented here indicate that the amount of anhydride intermediate formed in a cotton fabric increases as the finish bath pH decreases from 4.5 to 1.5. Therefore, the formation of the cyclic anhydride intermediate is accelerated by an increase in proton concentration of the finish bath. Anhydride intermediate formation and cellulose esterification show different pH-de pendencies.
Simulating Textile Padding with Vacuum Extraction
Authors: Broadbent Arthur D. , Bao Xulei
Published: March 2008

Mass balance equations were developed for several equipment configurations used for textile padding, followed by vacuum extraction and solution recycling. The effects of changes in process variables on the amount of chemical in the bath and that retained by the fabric were simulated for both transitory and steady-state operation. The time to reach a new steady state after a perturbation of the process depended on the nature of the variable changed, the kind of equipment, and whether the vacuum extracted solution was recycled and to which container. Systems for which the chemical solution is metered and the bath level maintained by water make-up have quite different char acteristics from those with bath make-up by a chemical solution alone. The process simulations permitted comparison of the response times for different equipment types, along with useful information for equipment selection, process optimization, and pre diction of the influence of process changes.
Dynamic Reciprocating Bending Fatigue of Webbing
Authors: Bassam S.J. , Johnson Nigel A.G.
Published: March 2008

Bending fatigue as a possible cause of degradation of textile webbings has been investigated using a dynamic bending apparatus. Changes in strength and thickness due to dynamic bending fatigue were measured on webbings used in automotive pas senger restraints (seat belts). Influences of abrasion and webbing tension were also considered. Webbing strength dropped by about 8% after 500,000 fatigue cycles. Re peated bending also caused an increase in webbing thickness, indicating relative move ment of fibers and yarns in the fabric. Some explanations for this behavior are given.
Bubble Size Distribution During the Application of Foam to Fabrics and Its Effects on Product Quality
Authors: Isarin Jan-Cor , Kaasjager Antonie D.J. , Holweg Ronald B.M.
Published: March 2008

A method developed to determine bubble size distribution in flowing foam is targeted to foam application to fabrics, one of the minimum application techniques for applying chemicals to webs in very small volumes of water. Bubble size distribution is known to determine vital properties of the foam, such as viscosity, stability, and draining. The investigations described here reveal that bubble size distribution also affects the uniformity of the textile substrate. A measuring system incorporating a video camera was set up to study flowing foam. An image processing algorithm and analysis program were developed to determine bubble size distribution, and this method was then com pared with one where bubbles were measured individually with photographs. The correlation between the methods was close. The image processing method was used to determine bubble size distributions of various foams. The effects of foam density, residence time of foam in the transport pipe, mixer speed and time-dependent effects on bubble size distribution were demonstrated. The study revealed that foam can be applied uniformly to a cotton web using a closed system in which application of moisture and bubble size distribution vary. However, uniformity deteriorates when foam with a non-uniform bubble distribution is used.
Modeling and Simulation for Control in Carding
Authors: Gutierrez Hector M. , Rust Jon P. , Seyam Abdel-Fattah
Published: March 2008

The purpose of this work is to further study the transfer function model for carding introduced in a previous paper. Our goal is to develop mathematical and computational tools that will ultimately lead to the design of real-time controllers for carding. In this paper, we discuss a linear, time-variant version of the model presented for one carding group. We also present a reduced order, linear model and use it to build a linear estimator (observer) as part of a full-state feedback controller design. Computer sim ulations and experimental results are shown.
Applying Expert System and Fuzzy Logic to an Intelligent Diagnosis System for Fabric Inspection
Authors: Lin Jeng-Jong , Lin Chung-Hua , Tsai I-Shou
Published: March 2008

In this study, an intelligent diagnosis system capable of tracing possible breakdown causes of fabric defects is applied to fabric inspection processing. Apart from the basic structure ( e.g., user interface, inference engine, and knowledge base) of the expert system, there is also a diagnosis system developed using fuzzy set theory. This system, which uses the Turbo C program, can act as an expert consultant for operators tracing the causes of breakdowns at any time, and the expert system, developed in an artificial intelligence language PROLOG, can provide the operator with a knowledge base for further consultation in fabric inspection. The accuracy and efficiency of system im plementation are also discussed.
Devices for On-Line Assessment of Nonwovens' Basis Weights and Structures
Authors: Veerabadran R. , Davis H.A. , Batra S.K. , Bullerwell A.C.
Published: March 2008

Two devices for quantifying the basis weight and fiber orientation distribution func tion in nonwoven webs have been developed and studied. The basis weight device measures the attenuation of a light beam by the fabric. The particular device is im plemented, calibrated, and tested at speeds up to 400 m/min. By statistical analysis, this device is accurate enough to use with fabrics that are three or more times less variable than current commercial nonwovens. The device for quantifying web structure measures the orientation distribution function of a static sample by light scattering, and it is sensitive enough to detect subtle differences in spunbonded webs produced with different filament-dispersing hardware. An anisotropy ratio calculated from mea sured orientation distribution functions correlates well with fabric tensile properties.
Effects of Cotton Fiber Blending and Processing on HVI Measurements—Part I
Authors: Fryer L.F. , Rust Jon P. , Lord P.R.
Published: March 2008

To obtain a better understanding of the relationships between fiber properties of the constituents of a cotton blend and the processes up to drawing, a review is presented of the effects of blending, orienting, and removing crimp from fibers on HVI test results. These effects are also explored experimentally by testing fibers from the same laydown in bale, card sliver, and drawn sliver form using HVI equipment. Apparent reductions in upper half mean and increases in short fiber content of card sliver may be due to the formation of hooks. Significant correlations between micronaire and fiber properties related to length that are present in bale samples are lacking in both card and drawn sliver samples, suggesting that there is at least one unmeasured factor in this analysis. Measured micronaire values are sensitive to crimp and fiber packing density. Differences in fiber property distributions can have significant effects on HVI measurements, and distributions of single fiber properties of a blend may differ dras tically from those of single bales. Strength tests of blended bundles may not include all constituents in the blend, because only the longest fibers are clamped in the jaws. Testing the fiber population at various stages of processing yields different information about fiber bundles.
Properties of a Fabric Made with Tandem Spun Yarns
Authors: Sawhney A.P.S. , Kimmel L.B. , Tyndall M. , Radhakrishnaiah P.
Published: March 2008

A totally new, integrated tandem spinning system was used to produce unique, 65- and 54-tex, core-wrap, composite yarns consisting of a high tenacity polyester staple core (40%) and a pure cotton wrap / sheath (60%). The yarns were conventionally processed on standard textile equipment in winding, warping, sizing/slashing, and weaving, and converted into a 220 g/m2, 2/1-twill fabric, which was permanently heat set in the greige stage and then pad-batch desized, scoured, and bleached. One portion of the fabric was dyed for cotton only, and the rest was union-dyed for both constituent fibers. One-half of the union-dyed fabric was finished with a softener only, and the other half was specially finished with a softener plus a light, 5% DMDHEU resin finish. The differently treated fabrics were then evaluated for selected important properties such as DP rating, shrinkage, tensile and tear strengths, flex abrasion resis tance, bursting strength, air permeability, overall core-coverage, and certain hand at tributes. This paper is the first to examine and report the properties of a tandem-spun- yarn fabric.
Evolution of Structure and Properties in a Spunbonding Process
Authors: Dong Zhang  , Bhat Gajanan , Sanjiv Malkan , Wadsworth Larry
Published: March 2008

The inherent properties of filaments are of utmost importance in spunbonded webs. A good understanding of structure and property development in individual filaments is helpful in better comprehending the whole process. A polypropylene homopolymer and a copolymer (PP/PE) are processed on the Reicofil® spunbonding line at the Textiles and Nonwovens Development Center of the University of Tennessee. The properties of the filament samples taken before thermal bonding are determined through a variety of experimental techniques, such as differential scanning calorimetry. thermomechan ical analysis, scanning electron microscopy, density, x-ray diffraction, and mechanical properties. The performance properties of the bonded nonwoven fabrics from the same set of filaments are evaluated and the structure and properties of the fibers are compared with those of the bonded fabrics. Primary air temperature and throughput have a strong influence on the structure and properties of both filaments (before bonding) and non wovens (after bonding). As primary air temperature and throughput decrease, filament diameter tends to decrease, accompanied by a simultaneous increase in crystallinity. birefringence, tensile strength, initial modulus, thermal stability. and density.