bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
The Preparation of Partially Cyanoethylated Cotton with Acrylonitrile
Authors: Daul George C. , Reinhardt Robert M. , Reid J. David
Published: March 2008

The preparation of partially cyanoethylated cotton with acrylonitrile in the presence of sodium hydroxide is described, including effects of changes in time, temperature, and concentration of reagents. Products with retention of the fibrous form have been ob tained with degrees of substitution up to 2.7 cyanoethyl groups per anhydroglucose unit.

Hydrolysis of the cyanoethyl group occurs readily under alkaline conditions and re sults in both cleavage and conversion to the carboxyethyl group. Maximum conversion in the latter case was 29%.
Amino Acid Composition of Normal Wools, Wool Fractions, Mohair, Feather, and Feather Fractions
Authors: Ward W.H. , Binkley C.H. , Snell N.S.
Published: March 2008

Amino acid analyses of normal wools of several breeds and geographical origins are presented as evidence of the normal variation of composition. Some samples were from lots used for detailed comparative studies of fiber properties and processing behavior. A mohair sample was found to be similar to wool in composition.

White Leghorn chicken feather keratin differed from wool in yielding larger amounts of serine and proline. Feather had characteristically smaller amounts of cystine and glutamic acid.

Heterogeneity of wool and feather keratins was shown by differences in amino acid composition of fractions prepared by treatment with acid, by mechanical separation, or by partial solubilization in aqueous alcohol. Feather differs from wool in having readily separable fractions differing greatly in content of histidine, lysine, and methionine. These fractions also differ appreciably in their content of several other amino acids.
The Amino Acid Compositions of Several Wool Fractions as Determined by Paper Chromatography
Authors: Golden R.L. , Whitwell J.C. , Mercer E.H.
Published: March 2008

A paper chromatographic study of the amino acid compositions of several histo logical fractions of wool has been conducted. The fractions considered were epicuticle, cortical cell membranes, paracortex, and regenerated oxidized keratin. Samples of these fractions were hydrolyzed with hydrochloric acid, and quantitative analyses of the amino acid content of these hydrolysates were accomplished through a modification of the standard two-dimensional paper chromatographic technique. The epicuticle was found to contain normal amounts of cystine but extraordinarily large quantities of aspartic acid and glutamic acid. In addition to confirming the results of the phosphotungstic acid analyses for cystine reported in a previous paper [14], the chromatographic studies of the paracortex showed large amounts of the basic and small amounts of the dicar boxylic amino acids to be present. The extremely low total of amino acid content found in the cortical cell membranes indicated the possible presence of some nonprotein constituent.
Stress-Strain Relationships in Yarns Subjected to Rapid Impact Loading
Authors: Stone Walter K. , Schiefer Herbert F. , Fox George
Published: March 2008

Equipment is described for elongating yarns by longitudinal impact at velocities rang ing from 10 to 100 m/sec. The rate of straining at impact varies from about 100,000 to 500,000% per min.

A procedure is discussed for obtaining load-elongation curves for loading and for unloading of the specimen and for loading to rupture in a time interval of only a few milliseconds. The results of a typical loading and unloading test are presented.
Some Chemically Modified Celluloses and Their Resistance to Fungal Degradation
Authors: Thomas Robert
Published: March 2008

Cellulose has been chemically modified by partial oxidation with periodic acid followed by coupling with various carbonyl reagents.

The modified celluloses have been tested for their resistance to fungal degradation, and some have been shown to inhibit growth at relatively low degrees of substitution (D.S.). The most effective substituent tested was phenylhydrazine, which confers complete resistance to the growth of Memnonliella echinata at a D.S. of 0.37%. Some aspects of the inhibitory mechanism and the suitability of the method as a fungus-proofing procedure are discussed.
Service Fading of Disperse Dyestuffs by Chemical Agents Other than the Oxides of Nitrogen
Authors: Salvin Victor S. , Walker Ruth A.
Published: March 2008

An extensive trial of acetate drapery fabrics dyed with new "gas-fast" blues has shown that active agents in the atmosphere, in addition to the oxides of nitrogen, can cause fading in service. This fading is oxidative in nature. It has been reproduced by an accelerated laboratory test in which fabrics have been exposed to concentrations of ozone somewhat higher than those ordinarily found in the atmosphere. This type of fading has been designated as "O-fading."

All of the disperse blue dyes and some of the reds and yellows have been found to be subject to O-fading. However, the major problem is with the blues. Anthraquinone blues are bleached by O-fading without the reddening associated with gas fading. The O-fading can be inhibited by antioxidants such as the gas-fading inhibitor diphenyl ethylene diamine and the nongas-fading inhibitor p-octyl phenol. For optimum re sistance to both forms of atmospheric fading, acetate fabrics dyed with disperse blues, including gas-fast blues, should be processed with inhibitors.

Laboratory tests have shown that O-fading takes place on Dacron1 as well as on acetate and Arnel.2 With Arnel and Dacron, a marked increase in resistance to O-fading is obtained on heat treatment. The penetration of the dye into the fiber is a factor in O-fading behavior, as evidenced by the increase in resistance to O-fading of Dacron fabrics dyed with carrier and by the effect of heat treatment. Optimum resistance to atmospheric fading of Arnel is obtained by the use of inhibitor plus heat treatment.
Density of Modified Cottons Determined with a Gradient Column
Authors: Orr Rollin S. , Weiss Louis C. , Moore Harry B. , Grant James N.
Published: March 2008

A rapid method which compares favorably in accuracy with that of slower methods for measuring the density of cellulosic materials with a gradient column is described. Densities of several cottons before and after chemical modification by partial acetylation, carboxymethylation, aminization, and mercerization are given. Per cent acetyl can be expressed as a function of density in a linear empirical equation over a range of 13 to 42% acetyl with a precision of ± 2%. Density measurements of decrystallized, ball-mill ground, and acid hydrolyzed cottons were in agreement with the generally accepted con cept of the crystalline-amorphous cellulose phase composition in these materials. Cotton from which water was removed by solvent exchange was found to have a high density before, and a low density after, air drying.
Resilience of Scoured Wool
Authors: Demiruren Adnan , Burns R.H.
Published: March 2008

The 6 inherent fiber properties, tensile strength, fiber length, fiber thickness, contour (major-minor axis), crimp length to depth ratio, and crimp depth were responsible for 31 % of the variations in the compressional-bulk resilience of wool. In the case of maximum load or stiffness, these same 6 inherent fiber properties were responsible for 85% of the variations. In both cases, the most important inherent property was tensile strength. It accounted for 17% of the variations in the compressional-bulk resilience of wool and for 66% of the variations for maximum load or stiffness. Fiber thickness was the least important while the other inherent factors were intermediate, with contour and crimp affecting resilience and fiber length and crimp affecting maximum load or stiff ness. Compressional-bulk resilience has a very narrow range of figures in the three wool types studied, while maximum load has over 4 times the range obtained for resil ience. Resilience varies within wool types and is lowest in the fine wools and highest in the medium wools, with long wools intermediate. Stiffness or maximum load is high est in fine wools, lowest in long wools, and intermediate in the medium wools. Only 31 % of the variation in compressional bulk resilience of wool can be accounted for by the variation in the 6 fiber characteristics measured.
Visual Observations of the Behavior of Soil Particles in Dilute Aqueous Soap Systems
Authors: Hock Charles W.
Published: March 2008

The nature of one type of detergent action was demonstrated visually upon the addi tion of graphite to soap solutions of laundry strength. The graphite became coated with elongated soap particles and superficially bore a resemblance to pieces of candy covered with shredded coconut. The soap particles, which may bear some relation to micelles, measured 100 to 150 A wide and from 500 to 1500 A long. This exploratory study in volved an electron microscopical examination of specimens from which the water had been removed while in the frozen state.
Stress-Strain Relationships in Yarns Subjected to Rapid Impact Loading
Authors: Smith Jack C. , McCrackin Frank L. , Schiefer Herbert F.
Published: March 2008

The tensile behavior of a Hookean material elongated by rapid impact at one end has been calculated, using a theory in which wave propagation is considered. As a result of these calculations, limits have been established on the applicability of a simpler theory, discussed in a preceding publication, in which wave propagation was neglected.
Applications of Thermodynamics to the Stretching of Cellulose Fibers
Authors: Roseveare W.E. , Poore Louise
Published: March 2008

Mechanical deformations of cellulose are recognized to take place primarily in the amorphous regions whose nature has not been well defined. Since these regions do not have a regular type of order, attention has been turned to entropy of stretching as a sta tistical measure of the changes in structure on stretching.

Data are presented giving the.retractive force, coefficient of thermal expansion, and modulus under a wide variety of conditions. Thermodynamic treatment of the data shows that moisture content and temperature control the bonding between chains in the amorphous regions. These cross links to a large extent determine the mechanical prop erties, which vary from an elastic glass in the dry state to those of a partially rubbery material in the wet state at high temperatures. At low temperatures in the wet state, the amorphous parts of the chains "precipitate" out of the swelling water and thereby form cross links between chains, which makes the modulus tend to approach infinity at the cellulose-water eutectic point.

This work provides a better understanding of the relationship between molecular and fiber properties.
The Thermal Insulation of Caribou Pelts
Authors: Moote Irene
Published: March 2008

The thermal insulation of samples of three caribou pelts, six other pelts, and one pile fabric was measured in still air and in winds up to about 26 mph. In still air the values, including ambient air layer, ranged from 2.0 clos for the pile fabric to 5.4 clos for the winter caribou. In a 25-mph wind the insulation afforded by most of the samples dropped to about 50% of the still-air value; notable exceptions were winter caribou, which dropped to only 58%, and winter deer, which dropped as low as 38%.
Mechanics of Elastic Performance of Textile Materials
Authors: Teixeira N.A. , Platt M.M. , Hamburger W.J.
Published: March 2008

Tongue-tear tests were made on samples of acetate fabrics, varying certain controlled factors: weave, texture, yarn twist, and yarn structure. An analysis of the resulting experimental data showed certain relationships between these fabric factors and tear strength. A qualitative discussion was made of tearing action—the influence on tear strength of various types of fabric distortion at or near the tear such as yarn pull-out force, crimp, cover factors, and dimensional stability in the plane of the fabric. Then the relationships between these types of distortion and the variable fabric factors were examined. The actual "mechanism of tear" in the tongue-tear test was theoretically investigated from the nature of the frequency distribution of load drops through the geometry of the tear structure to the synthesis of the tear diagram. Then the effects of the tails and the untorn fabric were studied; finally, all components were studied together.
On the Bulk Compression Characteristics of Wool Fibers
Authors: deMaCarty P.C. , Dusenbury J.H.
Published: March 2008

A method has been found to prepare bulk samples of wool fibers in such a way that reproducible compression tests may be performed upon them. An evaluation of the bulk compression characteristics of 29 widely different wool samples shows that compressive load, rather than resilience, serves to bring out differences among them. This finding suggests that quality differences among wools, as determined by handling, are related to differences in the wools' resistance to compression rather than to differences in compressional resilience.

For these 29 wool samples there is an inverse relationship between compressive load and mean fiber diameter. Although this finding is in agreement with similar results re ported for cotton fibers, it conflicts with the predictions from a theoretical model that has been proposed to explain the compressional behavior of wool. The theoretical model, which was based on a consideration of bending forces only during compression, has been claimed to fit results found for 310 samples of Merino wool. There is, therefore, an implication either that there is a different dependency of resistance to compression on fiber diameter within a wool breed as compared to that among different breeds or that the proposed theory is inadequate.

When the compressing piston size is varied at a constant sample size for a Targhee 60's wool card sliver, it is found that the effective volume of fibers being compressed is greater than the volume of fibers beneath the piston, probably because of fiber-to-fiber entanglements. The experimental results indicate that a constant area should be added to the compressing piston areas in order to achieve a constant compressive stress. This area increment is independent of sample diameter, providing the sample diameter is suf ficiently greater than that of the compressing piston, and this area increment decreases with increasing degree of compression.
Penetration of Alkaline Solutions into Wool Fibers Determined by Changes in the Rigidity Modulus
Authors: Kärrholm Marianne , Nordhammar Gösta , Friberg Ove
Published: March 2008

An apparatus is described for determination of the torsional rigidity and rigidity modulus of textile fibers. The apparatus is a modification of the torsion pendulum and is especially suitable for determination of changes in torsional moduli, e.g., after some treatment.

Tests have been made on wool fibers subjected to treatments with either potassium hydroxide in ethanol or sodium hydroxide in butanol kerosene. In the first case the rigidity modulus decreased about 10% on account of the treatment, while no change occurred in the second case. The rigidity modulus is a much more sensitive indicator of changes in the outer parts of the fiber than is Young's modulus.
Studies of the Dyeing of Nylon with Acid Dyes
Authors: Atherton E. , Downey D.A. , Peters R.H.
Published: March 2008

The dyeing of nylon with acid dyes has been investigated in greater detail than hitherto and the mechanism postulated by earlier workers has been confirmed, with minor reservations. The affinities for nylon of 12 acid dyes have been determined by desorption with inorganic anions and a more generally applicable equation has been evolved for the relationship between desorption data and affinity. This equation is based upon statistical thermodynamic consideration of the dye-fiber system, and the validity of its application to dye and inorganic anions of any basicity is confirmed by the experimental data. The results obtained have enabled some conclusions to be reached regarding the effect on affinity of structural variations within a related series of dyes. A comparison of the data for nylon with the well-established values for wool has shown a satisfactory measure of agreement.
Observations on Certain Fluorescent Spots in Raw Cotton Associated with the Growth of Microorganisms
Authors: Marsh P.B. , Bollenbacher K. , San Antonio J.P. , Merola G.V.
Published: March 2008

Evidence is presented which indicates that certain fluorescent spots observed in raw cotton under ultraviolet light are associated with the prior growth of microorganisms on the fiber. A striking and characteristic type of spot which fluoresces bright greenish- yellow was noted frequently in classers' samples from the 1954 cotton crop grown around Yuma, Arizona, and Brownsville, Texas. It was also, but less frequently, noted in samples from other regions of Texas and occasionally in samples from other states. Spots of this particular type have been shown to be associated with growth on the fiber of the fungus Aspergillus flavus, three principal lines of evidence having been obtained : (1) the very common occurrence of A. flavus in the fluorescent spots; (2) the production of a fluorescence of similar appearance by A. flavus growing on cotton fiber in pure culture; and (3) the similarity of the fluorescent substances from field- and A. flavus -incubated fiber in chromatographic behavior and absorption spectrum. The fluorescent fiber in commercial samples exhibited abnormally high swelling in alkali and decreased strength.

A white-fluorescent spot, less striking and less easily recognized than the above, has been found to be associated with certain isolates of the fungus Alternaria sp. Several other common types of microbial growth on cotton prior to harvest were not accom panied by distinct differences in fluorescence as compared with uninfected fiber, indi cating that under the conditions here employed ultraviolet examination is not a general tool capable of detecting all of the types of microbial infection present in commercial cotton.
The Properties of Cotton Reacted with β-Propiolactone
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Reid J. David , Daul George C.
Published: March 2008

A number of the textile and chemical properties of cotton reacted with β-propiolactone have been investigated and are reported. Differences in the properties of the products of the reflux and of the alkali methods of treatment are shown.

Reaction of cotton with β-propiolactone yields a cellulose derivative with a bound graft polymer. The results of this unusual reaction are shown by optical means with micro scopic cross sections and electron micrographs, by changes in X-ray diffraction patterns, by influence on textile properties, by chemical effects such as saponification to yield car boxyethylcellulose, and by the production of unsaturation in the cellulose derivative.
The Design and Laboratory Evaluation of an Improved Navy Overcoat Fabric
Authors: Press J.J.
Published: March 2008

Analysis shows the 30-oz kersey fabric used in the enlisted man's overcoat to be too heavy and warm under still-air conditions, to be inefficient in resisting wind penetra tion under adverse conditions, and to have limited use life because of the rate at which it becomes threadbare. New 22-oz fabrics, in melton and kersey finishes, have been engineered to incorporate improved functional characteristics. On the basis of laboratory evaluation, the 22-oz fabrics show considerable promise for wool conservation while maintaining or improving the desired functional characteristics of the 30-oz kersey.
Effect of Colloidal Silica Treatments on Sizing and Finishing Characteristics of Cotton Yarns1
Authors: Brown Hugh M. , Langston J.H. , Murray E.A.
Published: March 2008

Cotton in lap form was treated with a colloidal silica compound, and together with an untreated lap was processed into 15/1, 36/1, and 50/1 yarns. Samples of these yarns were used for control, for mercerizing, for bleaching, and for dyeing. Analyses of ash content were made on these four sets of samples. In addition, other samples of the yarns were used to assess the reaction to slashing, desizing, and abrasion. In general, the presence of colloidal silica, on medium and fine carded yarns, did not affect the operations of mercerizing, bleaching, and dyeing. Yarn strength differences between treated and untreated samples were of the same order after as before each of these chemical processes. Quantitative tests (ash-content analyses) to determine the effect of these processes on the permanence of the colloidal silica on the fiber were inconclusive.
The Dielectric Properties of Fiber Assemblies
Authors: Hearle J.W.S.
Published: March 2008

Previous work on the dielectric properties of fibers is extended to cover the frequency range, 100 kc./sec. to 10 Mc./sec. The effects of frequency and moisture are reviewed and discussed.
The Effect of Chlorine and Subsequent Treatment with Sodium Bisulfite upon the Physical Properties of Cotton Fabrics Treated with Various Resins
Authors: Howard John H.
Published: March 2008

A study has been made of the effect of chlorine on the tensile strength, tear strength, and crease resistance of mercerized, 80 × 80, 39-in., 4.00-weight, white cotton cloth treated with three types of thermosetting resins, one of which was a straight urea- formaldehyde type, another belonged to the melamine-formaldehyde group, and the re maining was of the imidazolidone-formaldehyde class. Included in this work is the effect of sodium bisulfite on the aforementioned physical properties of the prescribed fabric treated with the indicated resins and subsequently subjected to chlorine treatment.
A Compounded Flame Retardant for Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Reid J. David , Frick J.G. , Arceneaux Richard L.
Published: March 2008

A combination of two existing flame retardants, THPC and the bromoform-triallyl phosphate polymer, produces a flame-retardant finish for cotton which is superior to that of either finish alone. Fabrics 8 oz. or heavier are made highly flame-resistant. The finish is durable and employs a single treating bath with a simple finishing procedure.
Bromine-Containing Phosphonitrilates as Flame Retardants for Cotton
Authors: Hamalainen Carl , Guthrie John D.
Published: March 2008

Bromine-containing derivatives of phosphonitrilic chloride were investigated as pos sible durable flame retardants for cotton fabrics. These, including brominated allyl phosphonitrilate, 2, 3-dibromopropyl phosphonitrilate, and the bromoform adduct polymer of allyl phosphonitrilate, were applied to cotton fabrics as polymeric products from or ganic solvent or from aqueous emulsions. Evaluation tests on tear strength and the durability of the flame resistance to laundering were made.
The Measurement of Tearing Strength of Textile Fabrics
Authors: Turl L.H.
Published: March 2008

Current versions of two methods commonly used for the determination of tearing strength require clarification regarding treatment of the data obtained and revision to accommodate newer types of inertialess testing machines. Experimental information, providing the necessary background data, has been obtained. Sixteen fabrics of mili tary interest have been tested by the Tongue (single rip) method and the Trapezoid method, on both pendulum and inertialess testing machines. The experimental data for these fabrics are analyzed to permit a comparison of both methods and both machines.

It is concluded that existing test method procedures are vague in respect to the inter pretation of the data obtained, and results given by the two types of testing machine differ significantly. The Trapezoid method could be interpreted equally well through a single maximum tearing force for each specimen, but the Tongue (single rip) method is the more satisfactory experimental procedure.

It is suggested that the latter be utilized in specifications governing fabric procure ment. The question of the relationship between existing tearing-strength test methods and service conditions and requirements is raised.
The Effect of Cotton Fiber Strength on the Properties of 2-Ply Carded Yarns
Authors: Fiori Louis A. , Brown John J. , Sands Jack E.
Published: March 2008

Two cottons (Hopi Acala 50-an irrigated variety, and Variety A) and the single yarns used in a previous study, plus yarns spun from an additional cotton, identified as Variety B, form the basis for the 2-ply constructions covered by this report. The single yarns were spun (Z twist) using twist multipliers ranging from 2.75 to 5.75 in increments of 1.00. Each single yarn twist construction was 2-ply twisted (S twist) with the same range of twist multipliers. In addition, a "balanced" ply twist construction was made wherein the ply twist multiplier was found to be approximately 0.7 times the single yarn twist multiplier. Single yarn number was held as constant as possible by varying the spinning draft to compensate for the contraction due to twist.

It was found that for cottons of comparable fiber length and weight fineness, the stronger fibered cotton produced the stronger 2-ply yarns. Also, differences in fiber strength do not affect twist-strength trends or percentage gain in strength of 2-ply over single yarns. The results of this study also indicate that fiber elongation is directly related to 2-ply yarn elongation.
Note on the Preparation of a Partial Ester of Cotton Cellulose in Fabric Form
Authors: Bullock Austin L. , Schreiber Walter T. , Guthrie John D.
Published: March 2008

Although cellulose caprates have been made previously, the processes used degraded the cellulose to some extent since the objective was to make products that would be soluble in organic solvents. This paper describes a method of preparing, possibly for the first time, a partial capric ester of cotton cellulose in fabric form, employing conditions that do not degrade the cellulose significantly. The method consists of a presoak in pyridine followed by treatment with capric anhydride. Partial esterification was shown by dyeing characteristics and chemical analysis of the modified cotton; by hydrolysis of the treated fabric and determination of the neutralization equivalent of the isolated capric acid; and by the preparation of a derivative of the capric acid recovered from the fabric. The fabric showed considerable water repellency and some rot resistance.
The Effect of Aluminum Powder on the Heat Insulation of Goose Down
Authors: Niven C.D.
Published: March 2008

The effect on the thermal insulation value of goose down was examined when dif ferent amounts of aluminum powder were added by dusting. At low density considerable improvement was found to be possible.
The Cellulose — Sodium Hydroxide — Water System in the Cyanoethylation of Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Weaver J.W. , Klein Elias , Webre Beverly G. , DuPré Elsie F.
Published: March 2008

When cotton is cyanoethylated with a large excess of acrylonitrile in the presence of aqueous alkali at fixed time and temperature, the extent of cyanoethylation and by product formation is controlled by the ratios of cellulose, sodium hydroxide, and water employed. The mechanical restraints offered by the yarn and fabric structures alter these optimum conditions as well as the extent of cyanoethylation which takes place. Cyanoethylated cottons, having essentially equal nitrogen contents but different prop erties, can be prepared from a large number of compositions of cellulose, sodium hy droxide, and water. High sodium hydroxide contents in the starting mixtures result in substantial conversion to carboxyethyl groups with a subsequent loss of resistance to microbiological attack.
Fluorine and Iodine Compounds as Flame Retardants for Cotton
Authors: Frick J.G. , Reid J. David , Moore H.B.
Published: March 2008

Fluorine and iodine compounds, both organic and inorganic, were tested as flame retardants for cotton. Comparison with bromine and chlorine compounds showed that the effectiveness of the halogens, on an equal weight basis, increases in the order. fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine, with the last two about equally effective.
Cotton Quality and Fiber Properties
Authors: Leitgeb Donald J. , Wakeham Helmut
Published: March 2008

The purpose of this research was to evaluate fiber fineness as a cotton quality factor, especially with regard to processing characteristics and fabric performance. Three lots of cotton having Micronaire values of 3.6, 4.5, and 5.4 were studied. In addition, equal weights of the 3.6 and 5.4 cottons were mixed to prepare a fourth lot of medium fineness to compare with the 4.5 cotton. The cottons were spun into 30/1 yarns, woven into a 66 X 68 fabric construction, and bleached, mercerized, dyed, and resin-finished. Samples taken throughout the trial were used to determine the properties of the single fibers, rovings, yarns, and fabrics.

Increasing fineness, or decreasing Micronaire, was found to increase roving and yarn strengths, and to decrease spinning end-breakage rates. Maximum yarn strength was reached at lower twists for the finer cottons. Neps increased with increasing fineness.

The fabrics of the finest cotton possessed more strength, more abrasion resistance, more elasticity, and a softer hand than the fabrics of the coarser cottons. Resin treat ment eliminated most of the fabric advantages of the finer cottons. Increasing fineness also caused greater fabric shrinkage and somewhat poorer crease recovery. The blended lot was generally equal to the lot of medium fineness in both processing char acteristics and fabric quality.

In general these observations suggest that distinct benefits can be obtained by the use of finer cottons, provided the accompanying increase in neps can be tolerated.
The Determination of Neppiness in Carded Webs
Authors: Chamberlain N.H. , Jordan G.
Published: March 2008

The general problems encountered in determining the number and average size of a population of opaque particles randomly distributed on a transparent or translucent ground are discussed, with particular reference to the use of optical scanning methods for such determinations. An apparatus suitable for scanning specimens of carded webs, with a view to determining their nep content, is described, and it is shown that, when used with "ideal" samples consisting of small black paper disks randomly distributed between glass plates, it is capable of counting and sizing the particle array within very close limits. The particular difficulties encountered with carded web samples are then discussed with reference to actual experimental results, and a method of computing the "neppiness index" is described. It is suggested that this index may be a more reliable and consistent measure of the neppiness of a sample of carded web than the "nep count" which has hitherto been used for this purpose.
Lubrication of the Textile Spindle Bearing
Authors: Vidosic J.P. , Cheverton R.D.
Published: March 2008

A great amount of power is consumed in overcoming friction in the high-speed tex tile spindle. Its proper lubrication is therefore a tremendously important engineering problem. An experimental study of this problem is reported in this paper. We attempt primarily to uncover and to analyze some of the factors involved in order to arrive at the characteristics of the oil-lubricated, cast-iron bolster spindle.
A Copper Process for Prolonged Microbiological Protection of Cellulosic Fabrics by Chemical Modification
Authors: Abrams Edward , Bottoms Robert R.
Published: March 2008

A new process for prolonged mildew resistance of cellulosic materials has been developed. The process consists of treating cellulose with a dilute solution of copper formate followed by a heat treatment. Heat treatment is an important part of the process. Cotton fabric treated by this process is resistant to pure cultures of cellulolytic organisms both before and after exposure in the Weather-Ometer, and it survives for relatively long periods in biologically active soil. It is believed that in fabric treated by this process, the copper is bound to the cellulose and gives the effect of cross-linking. The copper is insoluble in most copper solvents such as ammonia.
Physical Properties of Cotton Reacted with Beta-Propiolactone
Authors: Nott Emilie H. , Grant James N.
Published: March 2008

Cotton yarns made from an American upland cotton were pre-extracted with either acetone or monoethanolamine. In the present investigation they were reacted with beta- propiolactone either in the presence of xylene by the reflux method, or in the presence of either 8 or 15% sodium hydroxide by the alkali method to secure add-ons in weight of up to 36.9.% A new type of modified cotton produced by graft polymerization was attained by the reaction. Certain physical properties of the fibers and yarns were meas ured. The changes in most properties were found to be associated with the pretreatment, the method of reaction, and the add-on of beta-propiolactone. While tenacities of fibers and yarns generally decreased progressively with increase of beta-propiolactone add-on, the decreases are due principally to the add-on of the polymer. Density decreased linearly with add-on but varied depending on pre-extraction solvents and methods of treatment used. The rate of degradation of the cellulose by heat was slightly greater in the re acted yarns than in the untreated. Frictional resistance of yarns against steel was in creased for yarns reacted with beta-propiolactone in the presence of xylene, but un affected when the alkali method was used. Electron micrographs show the polymer on the surface of those fibers reacted in xylene but very little on the surface of those re acted in alkali. Elastic recovery increased 11 to 13% with beta-propiolactone treatments.
The Relation between the softness of Handle of Wool in the Greasy and Scoured States and Its Physical Characteristics
Authors: Roberts N.F.
Published: March 2008

Three sets of samples were submitted to panels of wool buyers for appraisal of handle, and partial regression analyses were carried out to determine the association of their grading for handle with their mean diameter, coefficient of variation ( C. of V.) of diame ter, number of crimps per inch, staple length, Young's modulus, yield, percentage of wax, percentage of suint, and percentage of dirt.

In a preliminary experiment the mean gradings given by 12 appraisers to 36 samples, which varied in diameter from 18 to 27 μ, were analyzed. The important characteristics were found to be mean diameter, number of crimps per inch, and, in the greasy halves of the samples, the yield. The suint was the component of yield that affected handle.

In the second experiment 66 samples varying in diameter from 16.6 to 31.6 μ were appraised by ten buyers, under more carefully controlled conditions. The gradings for handle in these appraisals appear to have been determined primarily by diameter and secondly by crimp, with staple length and C. of V. of diameter having a small influence. Neither yield nor Young's modulus were significantly associated with handle.

In the third experiment 50 samples with a range of only 2.7 μ in diameter, but a range of 10 in number of crimps per inch, and of 28% in yield were appraised by five buyers who had not been concerned in the tests previously. Once again diameter and crimp, but not yield, had statistically significant associations with softness of handle.

The results suggest that softness of handle should be used more frequently in con junction with the visual indication given by crimp for appraising fiber diameter.
Determination of the Degree of Crystallite Orientation in Cotton Fibers by Means of the Recording X-Ray Diffraction Spectrometer
Authors: Creely Joseph J. , Segal Leon , Ziifle Hilda M.
Published: March 2008

An improved technique is described for the quantitative determination of the degree of crystallite orientation of cellulose in cotton and related cellulosic fibers, using the X-ray diffraction spectrometer with potentiometer recording and a rotating specimen mount.

The method is based on the angular dispersion of the 002 diffraction arc of cellulose but employs the somewhat more conveniently determined angle at half-maximum in tensity instead of the photographically determined "40% angle," used by Berkley.

It is shown that the angle of half-maximum intensity (50% angle by analogy) is less than Berkley's "40% angle" by a constant value of 3.3°.

The effects upon the precision of the results of sample preparation and instrumental variations are described. Under the conditions proposed, the precision of the half- maximum angle is about 0.65°. This compares with a precision of about 1.0° for results obtained by photographic recording and photometering of the X-ray patterns [2].

Using the improved X-ray spectrometer technique described, the dark room required for photographic determination of orientation, with its rigid processing control, can be dispensed with, and a determination can be made in about one-fourth of the time.
Chemical Damage in Wool
Authors: Huyck F.C. , Sons F.C. , Mills Kenwood
Published: March 2008

A paper chromatographic method for determining the extent of damage by oxidizing or alkaline solutions to wool fabrics of unknown history is described. The presence of other textile fibers does not constitute an interference.
The Geometry and Properties of Two-Bar Tricot Fabrics
Authors: Fletcher Hazel M. , Roberts S. Helen
Published: March 2008

A study was made of the geometry of 97 two-bar tricot fabrics knit of several deniers of acetate and viscose filament yarns knit with different courses per inch and runner ratios. Relationships were derived from the observed data of stitch length, diameter of yarn, runner ratios, wales and courses per inch, breaking strength, elongation, and burst ing strength.
A Study of Blended Woolen Structures
Authors: Coplan Myron J. , Klein William G.
Published: March 2008

At the time of publication of Parts I and II [1, 2], the mathematical approach to establishment of criteria for judging blend distribution had been governed by two factors. First, the experimental procedures involved microscopic examination and counting of fiber sections at yarn cross sections. Second, the materials under exami nation were stock-blended woolen yarns where the manifest objective of the fiber mixing processes was to achieve random intermingling.

It was desired to extend the appropriate probability theory considerations to a more general level. This has now been accomplished, and suitable statistical criteria have been derived for use with experimental methods of measuring blend composition which involve gravimetric analysis of finite lengths of yarn, roving, or sliver. To this extent the utility of the earlier work has been considerably expanded.

Beyond this, however, the question has been examined as to whether or not the same basic criteria of blend uniformity apply to worsted-type yarns where blending is accom plished by doubling of slivers. It is shown that such methods can be expected to yield no better than a random blended yarn and therefore are subject to the same limiting ideal.
A Method for Controlling Cationic Exchange in Cotton
Authors: Hannan Patrick J.
Published: March 2008

The abnormally high copper content of cotton duck which has been impregnated with the solution of a copper salt is due to the adsorption of ionic copper by the cotton. This adsorption may be prevented completely by scouring the fabric and then applying the copper in the form of a water-soluble molecular complex. Citric acid and glycine form such complexes with copper and are effective in preventing its adsorption.
The Effect of Strain on the Electrical Resistance of Keratin
Authors: Algie J.E.
Published: March 2008

The change of resistance with time after the application of various strains has been examined at 90% RH and 20° C. for keratin fibers. There is an initial instantaneous rise of resistance much greater than that due to a dimensional change, which is related to the strain, followed by a decrease in the resistance caused by the uptake of water vapor from the surrounding atmosphere. A further stage was observed during which the resistance rose as excess water vapor left the fiber.
Comparison of the Mechanical Properties of Cotton Yarns and Fabrics Treated with Anhydrous Ethylamine and with Mercerizing Caustic
Authors: Ziifle Hild M. , Eggerton F.V. , Segal Leon
Published: March 2008

Samples of cotton yarn, tire cord, and fabric were subjected to treatment with an hydrous ethylamine to produce cellulose III. The physical and mechanical properties of these products were compared with those of the untreated materials (containing cel lulose I crystal lattice) and of mercerized cotton (containing cellulose II crystal lattice). The ethylamine treatment produced effects upon the textile properties of the original materials which were similar to those of slack-mercerization but smaller percentagewise. The properties of the treated cottons apparently were affected more by the accompanying fiber swelling and yarn shrinkage than by the shift in crystal lattice.

Ethylamine-treated bandage gauze compared favorably with the slack-mercerized "conforming bandage" pioneered at the Southern Regional Research Laboratory.
High Strength Regenerated Cellulose Fibers
Authors: Smith D.K.
Published: March 2008

Substantial improvements in the physical strength properties of certain fibrous regenerated cellulose products, notably rayon tire cord, have been achieved during the past decade. These advances in tensile and fatigue properties of tire cord rayon are reviewed and the factors responsible for the improvements are discussed in such a manner as to point the way for similar quality gains in related products, such as staple fiber.

Improvement in properties is primarily attributed to the combined use of physical and chemical actions to accomplish controlled crystallite development and orientation in the spinning filament. Beneficial use has been made of various types of chemical re generation retarding agents to prolong the plastic-gel state, thereby facilitating heavy stretching along with dehydration of the coagulated filament to yield a highly consoli dated and uniaxially oriented structure prior to complete regeneration.

The relation of current spinning practices to mechanical properties attained in the final filament are outlined and interpreted in the light of filament cross-sectional struc ture, secondary swelling properties, and differential dyeing characteristics.

Potential strength aims for future cellulosics are discussed and some suggestions made as to the type of products for which the structural skeleton of the cellulose polymer appears to offer outstanding advantages, particularly when coupled with bonding or stabilizing resins in intimate molecular association.
Effect of Creaseproofing Agents on Lightfastness of Sensitive Dyes
Authors: Goldstein Herman B. , Koenig David N.
Published: March 2008

The lightfastness of several classes of dye is known to be greatly affected by certain types of finishing agents such as cationic softeners and conventional types of crease proofing agents. However, little or nothing has heretofore been published by either the dye companies or chemical manufacturers regarding the effects on lightfastness of some of the newer or lesser known creaseproofing cotnpounds.

Three classes of dye which show the greatest sensitivity of lightfastness are the directs, the diazotized and developed, and the new "linkage" or "reactive" type dyes. This paper will describe the effects on lightfastness of most of the presently available creaseproofing agents on these three classes of dyes. A few selected vat dyes will also be included in the study.

The data presented will be helpful to mills in selecting creaseproofing compounds for the finishing of dyed and printed fabrics.
A Simple Ballooning Yarn Apparatus
Authors: Brunnachweiler D. , Mohammadain I.S.
Published: March 2008

In order to demonstrate certain properties of a ballooning yarn, an inexpensive and easily constructed apparatus has been made, which has proved very useful for experi mental and teaching purposes. The apparatus can be used for quantitative measurements of yarn tension, particularly with multiple balloons. A bibliography of ballooning theory is appended.
Formic Acid Colloid of Methylolmelamine as a Weather and Rot Resistant Finish for Cotton
Authors: Norbert Berard W. , Gautreaux Gloria A. , Reeves Wilson A.
Published: March 2008

A study of application techniques of methylolmelamine resins to cotton has revealed a practical method for producing cotton fabric with outstanding rot resistance and im proved weather resistance. This method is based upon the use of an acid colloid of methylolmelamine. The method of application of the colloid is the same as that con ventionally used for resin finishing; that is, pad, dry, and cure. The main difference is the use of formic acid to produce a colloid. Photomicrographs show that methylol melamine colloids (1-4 hr. old) are deposited in the outer portion of the cell wall of the fiber, whereas the conventional process deposits resin about halfway through the cell wall and the wet-cure Arigal 3 process deposits uniformly throughout the cell wall. Colloids five hours or older are deposited in much the same position as obtained by the conventional process. Only the fresh (1-4 hr.) colloids give outstanding rot resistance.

Cotton fabric finished with the acid colloids compares favorably with partially acetylated, fully acetylated, cyanoethylated, and Arigal fabrics which are known to have excellent resistance to rot. Experimental evidence indicates that the mechanism through which rot resistance is acquired by the acid colloid is "controlled penetration" rather than a continuous surface film.

Several acids were evaluated for colloid production; formic was the only acid which produced suitable colloids. A number of metal halides have been used as catalysts with the colloids. Small amounts of the metals become tenaciously bound in the fabric, and some of the metals alter outdoor weathering and other properties of the fabric.
Triazones—Creaseproofing Agents for Cotton
Authors: Wayland R.L.
Published: March 2008

The triazones have been known for a long time as chemical compounds, but have only recently come into prominence as creaseproofing agents. Fabrics treated with pure triazone resins show no damage due to retained chlorine and, when triazone resins are mixed with resins normally exhibiting high damage due to retained chlorine, they exert a chlorine damage depressant effect. Triazone resin finishes compare favorably with the best of the nitrogenous resin finishes in respect to durability and crease re sistance-fabric strength relationships. Fabrics treated with some triazone resins show some tendency to discolor at elevated temperatures, but this discoloration can be easily removed. Although the triazone resins have been blamed for imparting odor to fabrics, this has not been a problem in commercial usage where properly prepared resins and proper treating conditions have been employed. The triazone resins have now been used commercially on a large scale and have been found to be a valuable addition to the finisher's line of creaseproofing materials.
Theoretical Analysis of Rate of Liquid Absorption by Capillary Absorbing Media
Authors: Winch Allen R.
Published: March 2008

A theoretical analysis of rate of capillary absorption by absorbent media is presented which emphasizes the critical importance of environmental factors to the rate of liquid absorption (as well as factors which are specific to the structure of the absorbent mass). The theoretical relationships of environmental factors and capillary structure are com bined in an over-all rate of flow equation. From this equation many theoretical con clusions of interest may be drawn. The equation also suggests principles for design of capillary structures for optimum rate of absorption in proper relationship to external or competing environmental factors.