bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
CULTURAL DIPLOMACY CHARACTERISTICS OF THE FORMER SFRY
Authors: Shutarov Vasko
Published: August 2019

Cultural diplomacy is a recent diplomatic practice. Although elements of cultural-diplomatic actions have been evident ever since the early beginnings of diplomacy, it is safe to assume that cultural diplomacy saw its full development during the Cold War. Through cultural contents and forms, diplomacy promotes the system of values, ideas, representations and perceptions of a particular country. Cultural diplomacy is in direct and dynamic relation with both the internal and foreign political processes and contexts. When political, diplomatic, economic and military instruments and tools fail to produce the desired results, cultural diplomacy can unobtrusively create a favorable perception, affection and friendliness to its state and its policies. In this context, and from the aspect of international relations, the efforts of the former SFRY to implement cultural-diplomatic actions in its foreign policy are quite interesting. The first more complex international cultural-diplomatic representation of the SFRY occurred in years of unfavorable economic and social performance on the internal political scene and tense political relations with the countries of the Eastern Bloc on the foreign political scene. The profiling of the SFRY as a country different than those of the so-called "communist camp" and the creation of a favorable perception among the Western states and peoples shifted to the terrain of culture, and quite successfully so. Although the then Yugoslav authorities and official political intellectuals treated these activities as international cultural cooperation, from today's point of view, those were actually cultural-diplomatic actions that were strategically well devised and created, and also realized in the best possible way - in the spirit of the best practices of cultural diplomacy. The more fruitful cultural-diplomatic activities of the former SFRY, the better the possibilities for successful international political and economic positioning of the country. And vice versa, the new international positioning of the then Yugoslavia, changed the directions, methods and contents of its cultural diplomacy. The creation of the perception of a leader country in the Non-Aligned Movement was directly related to the cultural-diplomatic actions towards the countries of the so-called Third World. Statistical parameter analysis of the scholarships, students exchange and educational programs with countries from Africa, the Middle East and Asia indicates that the SFRY practiced extremely serious, thorough and modern cultural diplomacy, which for several decades had been effectuating excellent results in the international positioning of the country, simultaneously improving the domestic socio-economic and cultural performances.
IDEOLOGY OF POLITICAL PARTIES IN ALBANIA
Authors: Lami Roland
Published: August 2019

In this paper, ideological confusion is explained based on the structural-functionalist perspective. Analysis of the phenomenon in question focuses mainly on the interdependence created between the “deeply-social” factors of and political discourse. This analysis is undertaken to better understand the circumstances that condition political parties on representing social categories in different social contexts and on showing the implications of political identity building based on the type of discourse used by the political actors. For this reason, while Almond (1968), Easton (1865), Luhmann (1981) analyze the ideology, they pay attention directly to the way of society structuring, and not as much to the political discourse. According to them, no partial aspect of social life and no isolated phenomenon can be understood unless it is linked with historical integrity and social structure conceived as a general unit. In this study, macro analysis focuses on the identification and treatment of several important indicators in terms of influences in structuring the political identity as important elements even for the empirical testing to the solutions this paper proposes. In this article the political discourse of Democratic Party and Socialist Party is analyzed in three different time periods, 1992 - 1996, 1997 - 2001 and 2002 - 2012. In the first period, on the one hand, the government of the right wing undertook many structural reforms, while on the other hand it does not neglect social assistance for certain groups affected by these reforms. During this period, the Socialist Party is focused more on dealing with itself in terms in order to break with the past than to create a particular profile in an ideological sense - in relation to the opponent. This approach makes political parties differ little from one another. The only difference between them in this period is the discourse: “anticommunism” and “antiberishism”. Democratic Party refers to the origin of Socialist Party to attack it for its relation with the past, while Socialist Party denounces the whole Democratic Party for its leadership qualities. More specifically, each attitude of SP in opposition was labeled as a reminiscence of the former Labour Party, while for the SP every each attitude of the government manifested authoritarian, provincial and tribal tendencies of Berisha.
THE ROLE OF INSTITUTIONS OF THE REPUBLIC OF MACEDONIA DURING THE CRISIS OF MIGRANTS 2015 2016
Authors: Saliu Argëtim , Agushi Muaz
Published: August 2019

During 2015 and at the beginning of 2016the Republic of Macedonia faced the issue of the large number of refugees and emigrants from the Middle East, especiallyfrom Syria, who used the territory of the Republic of Macedonia as a bridge between the Balkans and the European Union. The Republic of Macedonia was the first country to offer medical assistance to the refugees; moreover, it registered the refugees and later on shared the recorded data with other countries.Furthmore, in order to help this important process except state institutions other non-governmentalorganizations were involved.With the usage of the decsriptive, statistical and historical methods, this project aims to offer readers the wide range of activities that the state institutions of the Republic of Macedonia undertook regarding the noted issue.
THE EUROPEAN STRATEGY FOR DISABLED PEOPLE FOR BETTER PUBLIC HEALTH
Authors: Mavrov Momchil
Published: August 2019

In the last decade, the European Community has extended measures to guarantee the fundamental rights and freedoms of people with disabilities and to improve the relevant legal framework. European policies and programs aimed at protecting one of the most vulnerable groups of human society aim to ensure the full exercise of fundamental human rights, among which are the subjective rights related to human health and the improvement of the quality of life.One of the most important acts in this direction is the European Disability Strategy with a programming period 2010-2020 in which it is set cooperation on concerted action at national and European level in specific areas of public life, one of which is healthcare.The most common problems of people with disabilities in the field of public health are unequal treatment, limited access to health care and medical treatment, the lack or deficit of specific health and rehabilitation services and access to appropriate medical equipment, corresponding to the health status of the persons with disabilities, as well as insufficient financial support from the state.All listed disadvantage inherent in most health systems lead to the violation of one of the most important social rights of people with disabilities, namely: their right to health.In order to overcome the barriers identified by persons with disabilities in the exercise of their subjective rights,In order to overcome these barriers which people with disabilities face when exercising their subjective rights, in the Strategy of the European Union is indicated that the community will support national health measures taken to provide accessible and quality health services, appropriate rehabilitation services for people with disabilities, the promotion of mental health services and the development of early intervention services and the assessment of the needs of vulnerable persons, including equal treatment.The stride of the European Community to ensure the highest possible protection of the civil, health and other basic rights of persons with disabilities needs to be actively supported by the governments of the Member States, since only through joint efforts and synchronized common policies could be achieved, the objectives set out in the strategic document.
CHILDREN'S RIGHT TO HEALTH IN THE ACTS OF THE UNITED NATIONS ORGANIZATION
Authors: Hristozova Mariya
Published: August 2019

One of the most vulnerable people in every society is children who, due to their physical, emotional, psychological and social immaturity, can not protect their fundamental rights and freedoms themselves and need increased support from the international community and national authorities. In view of these objective circumstances, in the system of the United Nations has adopted a number of legal acts which lay down minimum international standards for the protection of children's righThe most important and comprehensive international treaty for the protection of children 's rights is the 1989 United Nations Convention on the Rights of the Child. This Act proclaims a number of civil, economic, social and cultural rights for children who should be protected in all legal systems, such as: the right to education, the right to social security, the right to a standard of living appropriate to the physical, mental, social development of the child and other rights.Article 24 of the UN Convention also sets out the right of every child to enjoy "the highest attainable standard of health and health services to treat illness and restore his health." The right of children to health includes in its content, separate, autonomous rights and freedoms, such as the right to access quality medical care and remedies for illness and health rehabilitation, the right to control one's own health and body and others.In fulfillment of their obligations under the UN Convention on the Rights of the Child, States have an obligation to take comprehensive measures to ensure the fundamental human rights enshrined in the international treaty, including children's health, such as legislative, administrative, economic and other measures.However, the adoption of an appropriate legal framework is not sufficient to ensure effective protection of children's health. That right falls under the category of social rights, the full exercise of which requires active cooperation from the States. Today in a number of reports by international organizations is stated that many countries do not have sufficient financial resources to ensure the practical implementation of their obligations under international treaties, which creates a real risk to the children's right to health and for all their fundamental rights. In view of these disturbing data, further steps need to be taken to strengthen and guarantee all children's fundamental rights, especially their right to health, both at international and national level.
INTERNATIONAL PROTECTION OF THE RIGHT OF EQUAL ACCESS TO HEALTH CARE OF PEOPLE WITH DISABILITIES
Authors: Mavrov Momchil
Published: August 2019

The right to equal access to health care is a fundamental irrevocable right for every person which should be guaranteed in every legal system. It is clear from the established international standards in the field of health that the right of access to healthcare guarantees universal access on an equal basis to really available quality and acceptable health services and health facilities. According to the World Health Organization, access to health services also includes health promotion and disease prevention. In regard to people with disabilities and disadvantaged people, ensuring effective access to healthcare is extremely important, in mind their vulnerability and increased need for moral, social and financial support. The international community has always paid serious attention to the protection of the fundamental rights and freedoms of people with disabilities, especially their health care rights. Evidence for this positive policy is the many legal acts adopted within the United Nations system and within the European Union.The most important of these acts are the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, the International Covenant on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights, the International Convention on the Elimination of All Forms of Racial Discrimination, the Convention on the Elimination of All Forms of Discrimination against Women, the Convention on the Rights of the Child, the Convention on the Rights of Persons with Disabilities, all adopted by the United Nations, as well as the Charter of Fundamental Rights of the European Union, the European Disability Strategy and other European acts. The listed legal instruments proclaim the right of every person to the highest attainable standard of health and as an element of it is protected and the right to equal access to quality health care for all persons.At the same time with creating an appropriate legal framework to protect the health rights of people with disabilities, specialized bodies have been set up within the United Nations system and within the European Union to monitor and control the implementation of international treaties. This approach of the international community deserves support, as only the introduction of comprehensive and adequate measures could provide for a sufficiently high level of protection of the rights of persons with disabilities, who as full citizens of society should have equal and appropriate conditions for full exercising their subjective health rights, without discrimination on the basis of their disability.
PROFESSIONAL OBLIGATIONS AND RESPONSIBILITIES OF THE SOCIAL WORKER
Authors: M. Dimitrova Yana
Published: August 2019

Current study presents professional qualities of social worker and summarizes his professional knowledge, skills and qualities. Like any other profession, social work also has its obligations and responsibilities. They are based on ethical norms and requirements. Ethical rules are set in the Social Worker's Code of Ethics. It represents standards of ethical conduct in professional relations with clients, colleagues, institutions and society as a whole.Professional ethics is an integral part of the components that form the structure of the professional competence of the social worker. The term "professional ethics" refers to the set of requirements for the morality of the worker in each area of professional activity. There are common, valid for all professions requirements for labor morality, as well as specific for the specific profession or position.In the context of social work, the issue of professional ethics is particularly important because of the often necessary need in the daily life of the specialist to confront ethical dilemmas, to make a choice between the purely human response and the professional solution, to observe and apply moral norms.Moral categories in professional and educational activity are manifested in several ways: professional abilities; relations between the subjects in the pedagogical process; ethical relationship within the work team.Professional social work also requires the need for other components in the structure of professional ethics considered as a helping activity, more in the context of social support and assistance, such as caring for the social well-being of people. Professional social work also requires the need for other components in the structure of professional ethics - confidentiality, support volunteering, anti-discriminatory attitude, the best interest of the client, etc.Social work is among the professions that are realized and represent a special category - filled with humanity, compassion; a profession that requires love and concern for people, concern and responsibility towards their destiny, readiness for conscious and voluntary support in the name of their prosperity. It is these characteristics that can only occur when the social worker has high morals, values that are transformed into ethical attitudes and behaviors.
FACTORS AFFECTING EU LOCAL SELF-GOVERNANCE SYSTEMS
Authors: Djordjevic Sasa , Boykov Daryan
Published: August 2019

Improved efficiency of execution of EU activities is more and more dependant from local and regional authorities’ capability of implementation of decisions and law to society. From one side it is connected with administrative and financial possibilities of local and regional level. One of the basic roles of decision making close to the citizens is larger accountability and responsibility, which leads to more effective use of public resources. Expectations are that decreasing of central control and acquisition of higher level of financial independence to regional and local authorities will improve efficiency.
FUNCTIONING OF THE MENTAL DEFENSES IN THE CONDUCT OF INTERROGATION WITHIN THE CRIMINAL PROCESS
Authors: Ivanov Popnikolov Hristo
Published: August 2019

From the subject presented in the report it is evident that the pre-trial and the court bodies may, to some extent, be influenced both by the person of the accused and by his competence to participate in the criminal process. In this regard as an expert, the psychologist can offer invaluable assistance. Each expertise would assist all actors involved in the administration of justice on their objective assessment of the offenders, the understanding of their individual protection and the inherent self-justification during procedural actions. The involvement of psychologists in the criminal process is key to establishing the truth in the investigation, because every crime as an act has a subjective side, expressed in the psychic attitude of the perpetrator to the committed act. Establishing these psychological motives is a key point in the criminal process with a view to establishing the truth.Psychological protection stabilizes the personality in the critical conditions of counteraction, related to the elimination of the experiences of tension, anxiety, stress and frustration, leading to maximum mobilization of its resources and at the same time to their overpayment. Thus, the individual who is the subject of the process action is protected against the adverse external influences, but at the cost of a lot of effort and enormous loss of nervous-mental energy, which increases his own vulnerability instead of contributing to its reduction. The appearance and functioning of psychological protection can be significantly impeded by the interaction of the investigator with the accused. Even more complicated is the situation when it breaks the communication contact that may arise in the psychological alienation and self-isolation of the accused due to the desire to protect himself.Protective psychological dominance is a real psychic activity that investigators, investigators, investigators and judges need to take into account in order to effectively deal with their task and to overcome the resistance of the investigated persons and in a time to prove in a lawful and moral way their guilt and participation in the commitment of the crimes.
A DIACHRONIC PERSPECTIVE ON SUFFIX DERIVATION OF NOUNS IN THE MODERN BULGARIAN LANGUAGE
Authors: G. Ilieva Teodora
Published: August 2019

The paper outlines the dynamics and competition of suffixes for the formation of one-stem and two-stem nouns (nomina agentis, nomina actoris, nomina abstracta, nomina essendi, nomina loci) in the Old Bulgarian, Middle Bulgarian and Modern Bulgarian period in the development of the modern Bulgarian written language. The Old Bulgarian written canon (the accessible Preslav and Ohrid manuscripts from 10-12 c.), a wide range of manuscripts and lexical indices of manuscripts from 13-15 c. (some of them not studied until now), late Renaissance lexicographic studies from 18 c. (mostly the excerpted lexical data in Nayden Gerov’s Dictionary of the Bulgarian Language, v. I-VI, etc.) and studies of the synchronic Bulgarian lexis (Dictionary of the Bulgarian Language 1-15 volumes, etc.) have been put to use for the purposes of the analysis.The paper studies the productive/bound and non-productive/unbound suffix morphemes of deverbatives, denominatives and deadjectival nouns in the different historical periods and outlines their diachronic qualitative tendencies. It seeks to establish the reasons for the gradual limiting of suffix derivation as a word-formation process. These include among others the transformation of the Bulgarian language from a synthetic into an analytic one; the perception of some affixes as uneuphonic or as borrowed; the progressively limited transfer of foreign derivational models (through morpheme-to-morpheme translation from Greek in the Middle Ages or through borrowing of Russian affixes in the Renaissance, as well as their higher frequency since the 1940s); the tendency for economy of derivational synonymy; the interrelation of suffix derivatives and the genre and stylistic features of the text. The paper enumerates the active inherited and newly created derivational formants-suffixes in the Bulgarian language, while the researcher strives not to illustrate the full list of derivational suffixes in modern Bulgarian, which have already been studied, but rather to elucidate the qualitative fluctuations and the realization of suffixes. The formants have been inspected from a semasiological point of view as well — as a resource for the production of semantic doublets. Thus, the paper adds a new perspective to the kaleidoscope of Bulgarian historical morphology.
A COMPARATIVE STUDY OF IDIOMS WITH THE WORD “HAND” IN ENGLISH, SPANISH AND ALBANIAN
Authors: Skenderi Lindita , Ejupi Suzana
Published: August 2019

Idioms as phraseological expressions in English have always been a topic of interest for linguists, because they represent a rich world of words, which are always attractive to be analyzed. Every language has idioms and native speakers use them very normally. However, non-native speakers find them hard to understand and even harder to use them in their communication. The paper is focused on the idioms in English which have the word “hand” in them. Furthermore, those English idioms are compared to Spanish and Albanian idioms. The aim of the study is to see where those three languages have the same idioms, based on cultural translations, and where are they different. Most of the often-used idioms which include the word “hand” were found to be the same in Spanish and Albanian. Only few of them are completely different and don’t include the word “hand”, but they still convey the same message. The examples taken are compared based on full equivalence, partial equivalence and non equivalence meaning.
OVER THE NAMIK KEMAL’S LIFE, ART AND WORKS
Authors: Gurel Zeki , Chelik Mahmut
Published: August 2019

Namık Kemal (1840-1888) is one of the most important poets and writers of Turkish literature. The mother of Namık Kemal is from the Balkan Turks. . Namık Kemal, due to the duty of his grandfather, was also found in Bulgaria in the Balkans as a child. Namık Kemal is known as a poet, writer and journalist in the period called Turkish Literature which developed in the Western Effect in the history of Turkish Literature. He is one of the founders of Tanzimat Literature. Art has an opinion for society. He is known as “Fatherland Poet and“ Freedom Poet ”in Turkish Literature with his works. Many writers who came after him have affected with his works , especially the young generations. His poems, theaters and novels, as well as his historical works of personality, influenced the masses. Many works have been done and published about Namik Kemal to this day. With this statement, we wanted to draw attention to Namık Kemal from the beginning.
A TECHNOLOGICAL APPROACH TO OVERCOME SPECIFIC PHONOLOGICAL ERRORS MADE BY FOREIGN STUDENTS LEARNING BULGARIAN
Authors: Kavrakova Lidiya , Genova Mariya , Genova Mariya
Published: August 2019

The purpose of this article is to suggest a technological approach in order to help foreign students learning Bulgarian to overcome specific phonological mistakes at a beginning level.The complex psychological process which takes place during foreign language acquisition is unavoidably accompanied by mother tongue interference. The interference takes place on various levels; however, it is definitely most noticeable with the new phonetic system acquisition. Differentiating phonemes which sound similar is a problematic area in Bulgarian language learning. Foreign students, regardless of their nationality, make specific phonetic-phonological errors, one of which is the so called Epenthesis [i] is being incorrectly inserted in word forms where only [ya] is required.Certain word forms are differentiated in tables, thus helping to understand and rationalize the language regularities which is part of the core language skills for producing oral and written language. Word classes with grammatical forms requiring [-ya], [-iya] are presented in opposing rows. The suggested tables are of great practical value and have been approbated in teaching Bulgarian to foreign students at MU – Plovdiv. They enhance building phonemic perception of individual sound combinations. The work with the students has proved that the suggested technological approach is effective in forming certain practical skills to differentiate the structures in question and to use them appropriately in speaking.Errors ‘anticipatory‘diagnosis enhances their assessment and defines the choice of a relevant technique in order to rectify them. A system of purposeful exercises has been developed to achieve good phonemic awareness, defined concept of sound-letter correspondence, knowledge of segmental and super segmental units of speech flow and good pronunciation. This approach activates students’ motivation in acquiring Bulgarian phonetics and phonology and implementing new general and medical vocabulary.The technological approach suggested in the article is part of the teaching activities, designed to help learners master new knowledge and skills to use Bulgarian both in casual and academic environment. The main purpose of this technique and the observations from teaching practice is to share our professional experience and ideas so that the process of teaching Bulgarian as a foreign language could be optimizes.
FINDING WAYS TO INCREASE TRANSLATORS’ COMPETENCE
Authors: Pavlović Tanja , Hanić Jasmina , Hadžiahmetović Jurida Sanel
Published: August 2019

Many scholars have so far attempted to answer the question as to what constitutes translation competence. In doing so, it has been established that this competence requires a combination of various types of knowledge and skills, which consequently results in the complexity of the matter. It is precisely this complexity that has yielded in a number of approaches to defining and analyzing translation competence, which is considered to be a number one prerequisite for a successful professional in this field.Since many scholars who study translation competence agree that it is most effectively developed at an academic institution, modern language faculties that educate future translators and interpreters need to adapt their curricula so as to increase students’ translation competence and skills. This article looks at one of the possible ways in which translation classes have been designed in order to pursue this goal. It explores students’ perceptions on the presence of a native English speaker during translation classes and direct benefits (or the lack thereof) and presents possible guidelines for the improvement of translation classes.
CONSTRUCTIVISM AS A PLATFORM FOR BILATERAL RELATIONS RECOGNIZING THE JOINT CAPACITY AND EVALUATION OF DEVELOPMENTAL POTENTIALS
Authors: Radovic Vladeta , Cvetanovic Ivan
Published: August 2019

Social development is the only timeless and ubiquitous ideology. Conflicts and disagreements, on an individual and collective level, are immanent in the human species. Conflicts of interests and values are universal and in constant process of development. Communication, basically, can have three modes at least: constructive, destructive and indifferent. However, even, thinking about prosperity, indifference can be recognized as destruction. The key of any progress can only be constructive communication as opposed to destruction, or lack of interest. Constructive ratio, among other things, includes confronting positions and critical analysis. A critic may be creative only when able to achieve the objective, or desired changes. On the other hand, destructive criticism can not lead to a solution but, in opposite, provokes, destabilizes, increases resistance and emphasizes the detachment. Communication, therefore, is not a provocation, but refined design to implicate "expectations", and do not "require". Finally, it is very difficult to cooperate or have a positive impact on those who feel they are being attacked, insulted or humiliated. The only thing that can cause such feelings are: counter-aggression, aggression or withdrawal. Partnership coexist together with: reciprocity, taking into account, a common control, as well as many positive and negative constructs. There are many destructive forms of communication, from passivity and passive aggression to aggression, moved aggression, arrogance and other diverse instrumental behavior, in one word, manipulation. As opposite, constructive communication styles, require a direct relationship, concrete, accurate and clear messages. An open mind implies flexibility, moderation, tolerance, timeliness and also the developed awareness of political, cultural and social implications of the context. Therefore, bilaterally99, in the communication that obtains positive development trends in all relevant domains, is the same as constructive100. On the other hand, the development requires an effective and permanent incentives, as well as the continuing commitment to reforms, sustainable solutions and improvement of good neighborly relations, regional cooperation and stability. A constructive relationship is a prerequisite for creating and improving bilateral cooperation. Developing construct of bipolar structure, implies two basic processes: understanding, formulation, sublimation and protecting common interests and needs, and then promotion of understanding, values, cooperation and mutual respect.
ECONOMIC MANAGEMENT WINTER THERMAL DESCRIPTION OF RESIDENTIAL ROOMS
Authors: Elezaj Shaqir
Published: August 2019

In the cold period of the year, the fences protect the living space from outside temperatures and wind, and the heating system allows the maintenance of a certain temperature. The stability of the temperate regime of housing or work space is in correlation with the existence of cold surfaces of outside fences and heating surfaces of the heating system. Cold and hot surfaces bind convective air currents and appear as sources of "positive” and “negative" radiation fluctuations, which are all the more intense - if there are major temperature differences. The outside air temperature is constantly changing. As a consequence, the temperature of the walls of the living or working space changes. The highest temperature differences occur in the peaks of rough winters. If the outside fences and the heating system allow the comfort conditions to be met within the living and working space, especially in the case of raw winters, it is possible to fill the required comfort throughout the winter. Infiltration of cold masses of the air, heat loss by radiation, or vice versa, in proportion to the increase in heat allocation, in people living inside the living or working space, create an unfavorable feeling of cold or increased heat. Such shades not only cause the feeling of a confrontation of life or work, but can also lead to various illnesses.
DIGITAL SMILE DESIGN (DSD)- TECHNOLOGY OF THE FUTURE
Authors: Kasnakova Gergana , Giteva Desislava , Kilova Kristina
Published: August 2019

Digital Smile Design (DSD) is a digital design of the smile by means of the study the relationships between the teeth, gums, and lips of the patient in order to plan their treatment virtually. The use of digital tools offers a new perspective to daily clinical activities. The digital information is an objective and efficient communication tool among dentist, patient, and technician. Тhe DSD simulation is not enough for the patient to understand and observe the changes that will be performed on the teeth. This combination of techniques can offer predictability to results as.A beautiful smile and harmonic facial esthetics are attributes that contribute to the well-being of any patient. Smile esthetics are related to the form, texture, color, and alignment of the teeth as well as to intraoral soft tissues. An important objective of an esthetic treatment is that the final result should be as close as possible to the patient's expectations, improving his/her facial esthetics and smile.
The concept of fashion marketing as an instrument of reducing tensions
between designers and marketing experts in fashion companies
Authors: MILAN M. GAŠOVIĆ , DJURDJICA DJ. VUKAJLOVIĆ , NIKOLA V. ĆURČIĆ
Published: August 2019

Tensions between designers and marketing experts in fashion companies are created largely because the design values
are opposing to the values of marketing. Among other things, a better understanding of the concept of fashion marketing,
which is based on equal respect for design, customers and profits of fashion companies, contributes to the reduction of
misunderstanding. It has been confirmed by research carried out in the countries of the Western Balkan.
Structure with controllable permeability for vertical aerodynamic
stabilizers-decelerators
Authors: CARMEN MIHAI , ALEXANDRA ENE , CRISTIAN JIPA , CARMEN DENIS GHIMUS
Published: August 2019

The scientific and technical issues related to the high-tech materials applications in the recovery systems ensemble are
very numerous and varied. The parachute ensemble represents the most important part of a recovery system, and
therefore this fact requires a thorough knowledge of the performance characteristics as they are the decision-making
elements in the selection and design of this extremely complex system. In this context, the paper presents the main
achievements in the field of designing and realizing the structures for the stabilization-deceleration of the combat
divisions’ ammunition.
Investigation of the effect of fabric properties on the fabric use efficiency
Authors: MAHMUT KAYAR , NİHAN KIRAR , ÖYKÜ CEREN BULUR
Published: August 2019

There are several factors affecting fabric usage efficiency, one of them is fabric properties. The usage of different
fabrics for production of the same product increases or decreases the amount of fabric needed, which affects the cost
of the product. In this study, effect of fabric properties on the fabric usage efficiency was investigated. For the application processes, 3 different fabrics properties and 3 different garments were used and totally 9 marker plans were prepared. By analyzing the prepared marker plans fabric usage ratios were obtained and effect of fabric properties on the
fabric usage efficiency was investigated.
Novel portable device to analyze the moisture permeability of car seat
Authors: FUNDA BUYUK MAZARI , ADNAN MAZARI , ANTONIN HAVELKA , VIERA GLOMBIKOVA
Published: August 2019

The comfort performance of car seat is important factor while producing car seats, each layer of the car seat is tested
separately on classical testing machines, which lacks the real car seat performance when all layers are sandwiched.
The complication of car seat design and the testing method bring a great demand of portable device which can measure
the comfort performance of the real car seat. In this research a novel portable device is designed which work with special
heat flux sensor and the device is connected to computer by USB port and values of heat flux temperature of the water
and temperature of the surface is provided by the software. Heat flux sensors measure the heat transfer through a
surface, and are expressed in kw/m2. The software controls the heating plate adjustment using PID controller. The
device is tested with real car seat and shows repeatable and reproducible results.
Export competitiveness analysis of Pakistan garments industry based
on GEM Model
Authors: ASIF ALI SAFEER , MUHAMMAD ABRAR , SAJJAD AHMAD BAIG , ABDUL BASIT , MUHAMMAD ZIA-UR-REHAMAN , MUHAMMAD HASHIM
Published: August 2019

The main purpose of this research study is to investigate export competitiveness of Pakistani garment industry in the
global markets by applying the GEM Model. GEM model is vastly applied in many industries to analyse the export
competitiveness of the particular cluster. Survey technique applies to primary data collection through a structured
questionnaire. Pakistani garments industry export competitiveness based on GEM Model is analysed by using the
analytic hierarchy process (AHP) technique. After thorough analysis, overall calculated GEM score is 382 for Pakistani
garment industry. GEM score 382 means that Pakistani garment industry is above the national average level and
possess country wide competitive advantages. The future research scope is that there can be studied the associations
between one or many other factors to check the competitiveness level of Pakistani garment industry. This research work
has very important practical implications for all stakeholders to evaluate the export competitiveness level of the garment
industry. By applying the GEM model, the organization can evaluate its strengths and weaknesses, so that organizations
can cope with the international competition accordingly which is supportive to make decisions for their businesses.
Harness/container assembly for sport parachutes – A new concept
Authors: ADRIAN SALISTEAN , CLAUDIA NICULESCU , GEORGETA POPESCU , SABINA OLARU , CONSTANTIN NITE
Published: August 2019

The paper presents a new design concept of the harness/container assembly for sport parachutes. It can be used with
reserve parachutes and main parachutes of different volumes. So the assembly will be multifunctional. The container
is the subassembly that keeps the main and reserve parachute canopies in a folded condition, together with the
suspensions lines, the deployment device and the pilot chute in the reserve and main compartments. The harness, or
suspension system, ensures the link between the parachute jumper and the canopies and supports the weight of the
parachute jumper.
Currently, container parachute manufacturers produce containers whose compartments have a well-defined volume and
dedicated to a particular type of parachute with the same volume in folded state.
The new concept consists in the design and development of a harness/container assembly with variable volume compartments. Thus it is possible to have a multifunctional container usable with canopies of different volume in a folded
state.
Some validation aspects on the analytical method for assaying carcinogenic amines from textile dyes
Authors: ELENA PERDUM , ANDREI VALENTIN MEDVEDOVICI , FLORENTIN TACHE , EMILIA VISILEANU , IULIANA DUMITRESCU , CORNELIA-ELENA MITRAN , OVIDIU-GEORGE IORDACHE , ION RAZVAN RADULESCU
Published: August 2019

Chemicals safety control and ecological properties have become a priority for the textile industry in order to avoid the
negative effects on humans and environment. The increasing interest for toxicology of textiles is determined by the
presence of dangerous compounds in clothes generated from dyeing and finishing processes. In order to protect human
health, European Regulations as Oeko Tex Standard 100 and REACH Regulation limit the presence of dangerous
chemicals, such as aromatic amines, generated by reductive cleavage of azo dyes, by no more than 30 mg/kg of textile
material. The main goal of this research work was to develop and validate a HPLC/MWD method for precise and reliable
identification and quantification of carcinogenic aromatic amines derived from banned azo dye specific to the textile
industry. The simultaneous determination of 24 regulated aromatic amines has been conducted by two chromatographic
methods according to SR EN ISO 14362-1:2017 in order to avoid matrix interferences and compounds misidentification
due to the presence of structural isomers. Preliminary analyses to establish the maximum absorption wavelength of
each standard solution of aromatic amine were performed simultaneously at four wavelengths, 240, 280, 305 and
380 nm. With the scope of demonstrating the consistency, reliability and accuracy of the analysed data, both liquid and
gas chromatographic method were validated. Parameters as selectivity, precision, limit of detection and limit of
quantification of the analytical methods were evaluated. The certainty of the determinations was also proved by the
results of proficiency testing conducted by IIS Netherlands on azo dyes in textiles.
The analysis of dimensional stability of 1x1 RIB Co and Co/LY knitwear
Authors: MARIJA PEŠIĆ , VASILIJE PETROVIĆ , JOVAN STEPANOVIĆ , CARIŠA BEŠIĆ
Published: August 2019

This paper analyzes the impact of knitwear’s fiber composition, linear density and finishing of yarn used in the
dimensional stability of the 1x1 RIB knitwear made on the same circular knitting machine. Dimensional stability of these
samples was analysed by FAST 4 method. Different samples were compared across multiple indicators. The results
show that the most stable dyed knitted fabric are made of cotton 96% and 4% of Lycra and of yarn with linear density
19.14 tex. Tightness factor’s values in the dry relaxation stood at 17.90, in the wet 18.45, in total 18.73 and 18.59 in air
conditioned terms. Knitwear with the highest values of dimensional instability are raw knitted fabric made of 100% CO,
and yarn with linear density of 13.39 tex. Tightness factor’s values in the dry relaxation stood at 12.16, in the wet 12.36,
in total 13.26 and 13.35 in air conditioned terms
Air permability of worsted fabrics
Authors: HAKAN ÖZDEMİR
Published: August 2019

Comfort is one of the most important aspects of clothing. Air permeability, one of the comfort charectaristics of fabrics,
depends mainly on the fabric structure, which can be described by weave and yarn density. In this study, 16 worsted
woven fabric samples were produced for winter clothing using eight frequently implemented weave types together with
one warp density (28 ends/cm) and two weft densities (25 and 28 picks/cm). Additonally, semi-dull finish was applied on
raw fabrics. Results revealed the effect of weave, weft yarn density and finishing process on air permeability of woven
fabrics. 2/2 twill woven fabric, whose porosity is the lowest, have the lowest air permeability properties, therefore it is
more convenient for winter clothing. It is observed that in all weave types, an increase at weft setting caused to decrease
in air permeability and porosity values. Finishing process also leads to decreasesin porosity thereby to decrease air
permeability property
The influence of texturing process parameters on yield points and
breaking forces of pes filament yarns
Authors: PETAR STOJANOVIĆ , DUŠAN TRAJKOVIĆ , JOVANA STEPANOVIĆ , NATAŠA RADMANOVAC , JOVAN STEPANOVIĆ
Published: August 2019

An analysis of the mechanical properties of textured PES yarns shows that the texturing speed has a
significant effect on these properties. The results showed that with the increase in the texturing speed, a
decreasing trend was observed in the breaking forces of the analyzed textured PES yarns at stretching
degrees of 1.665 and 1.685. Some deviations of the results were found in the textured PES yarns with the
applied stretching degree of 1.675. Also, the results showed that at a stretching degree of 1.685, the
analyzed yarns generally have higher values of breaking forces. Applying a higher degree of stretching of
PES filament yarns improves the orientation of molecular chains in the direction of the stretching force,
which contributes to better mechanical characteristics of textured PES yarn. In addition, the results of the
analysis of the influence of the first heater temperature show that, at higher temperatures, the textured PES
yarns with higher values of breaking forces are produced. The results obtained were used to suggest the
equations for predicting the yield points and breaking forces of textured PES filament yarns depending on
the process parameters of production.
The use of neoprene fabric evaluation in terms of comfort in child
tracksuit production
Authors: ZUMRUT BAHADIR UNAL , E.RÜMEYSA EREN
Published: August 2019

Neoprene fabric, which used in the manufacture of diving, wind surfing and fishing clothes, made a rapid entry into the
fashion industry. This fabric is resistant to petroleum products, water and wind. At the same time it is also resistant to
temperatures between –50 ° C and +120 ° C. It has been used in daily wear because of the flexible structure. In this
study, neoprene fabrics having different properties are compared in terms of comfort and physical properties in order to
determine whether a neoprene fabric is suitable in the child tracksuit production
A novel approach for Identification of pills based on the method of Depth from Focus
Authors: LING JIE YU , RONG WU WANG , JIN FENG ZHOU
Published: August 2019

For automatic pilling evaluation of textiles, the depth information is one of the most critical and effective features in
extracting pills from fabric image. Laser-scanning techniques are often used for acquiring 3D depth images. However,
due to the high-cost and low-efficiency of Laser-scanning system, researchers have found it unsuitable for fabric
analysis. This paper illustrates a new approach for acquiring the depth image used to extract pills by introducing the
method of Depth From Focus (DFF). This approach firstly captures a sequence of images of the same view at different
focal positions under the automatic optical microscope. Then the best-focused position (z) of each pixel(x, y) was
determined by choosing the layer of image declaring the max sharpness and formed the depth image. This paper
proposed a new sharpness-evaluation criterion which was based on the variance of gradients. Afterwards, a few basic
points indicating the background area was selected from the depth image, and then the depth coordinates (x, y, z) at
these basic points were used to calculate a predicted background plane. Via the background plane, pills above the
background were extracted. A fabric sample with a single fiber upon it was presented to illustrate the process and result
of the approach.
Analysis of thermal properties, water vapor resistance and radiant heat
transmission through different combinations of firefighter protective clothing
Authors: JAWAD NAEEM , MAZARI ADNAN , ENGIN AKCAGUN , ANTONIN HAVELKA , ZDENEK KUS
Published: August 2019

This experimental work is an effort to seek the possibility of improvement in thermal protective performance of firefighter
protective clothing at different levels of heat flux density. Improvement in thermal protective performance means
enhancement in the time of exposure against the heat flux, which will provide extra time to firefighters to perform their
duties without suffering from severe injuries. Four different multilayer combinations of firefighter protective clothing were
investigated. Each combination consists of outer shell, moisture barrier and thermal liner. Aerogel sheet was also
employed as a substitute to thermal barrier. Initially, properties like thermal resistance, thermal conductivity, and water
vapor resistance of multilayer fabric assemblies were investigated. Later on these combinations were exposed to
different levels of radiant heat flux density i.e. at 10, 20 and 30 kW/m2 as per ISO 6942 standard. It was noted that those
combinations in which aerogel blanket was used as thermal barrier acquire greater thermal resistance, water vapor
resistance and have less transmitted heat flux density values.