bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Research on double-faced jacquard fabric with compound full-backed
structure of three wefts
Authors: BAI LINLIN , ZHOU JIU
Published: October 2021

Weft-backed structures with compound weft colours can express the mixed colour effect. However, this structure is not
suitable for jacquard fabrics with a double-faced shading effect in the traditional single layer design mode. Taking
twenty-thread sateen with a step number (S) of 7 as an example, this paper investigates a design method for compound
full-backed structure with three shaded-weave databases (SWDs) by selecting the primary weaves (PWs), designing the
compound full-backed technical points and establishing the compound structure database with three SWDs. With this
design method, a double-faced shading effect in combination with non-backed and full-backed effects on different sides
of the jacquard fabric at the same position is generated. The fabric colour card was produced with three SWDs and three
sets of different coloured wefts, and their colour values were measured, followed by an analysis of the compound
structures on the reverse side, lightness, colour purity and colour difference (DE*ab) of the specimens. The results
showed that the three covering effects on the reverse side, partly covered, critical position and totally covered, could be
adjusted by controlling the step number and the transition direction of PW-C. For the specimens on the edges of the
fabric colour card, their lightness and colour purity values showed a uniform transition effect along with the shading
process; their colour differences ranged from 1.23 to 3.69, both in the range of 2–5, and showed a trace or slight colour
difference between two adjacent fabric specimens, indicating that the colour shading effect with the three SWDs is stable.
Modelling factors of influence on business process management
in the organizations of the clothing industry
Authors: DOBROSAVLJEVIĆ ANDREA , UROŠEVIĆ SNEŽANA , VUKOVIĆ MILOVAN , ŠTRBAC NADA
Published: October 2021

Business process management (BPM) in organizations of the clothing industry can be considered as a practice of
importance for establishing a stable and progressive business. In contemporary business, which considers the
application of best business practices within production-business systems, effective process management becomes
important and emerges as a practice that contributes to the overall improvement of the organization’s operations. BPM
focuses on improving both internal and inter-organizational operations that take place between organizations within the
supply chain of clothing industry. The effective BPM in the organizations of the clothing industry may depend on the
establishment of the various elements. The assumption is that influential elements are specifics of the garment industry
such as the primary BPM activities, the different dimensions of BPM which are consistent with a comprehensive view of
this approach, as well as the mere involvement of human resources in the business processes of the organizations. The
defined influential elements are treated as variables of the structural model, created by the implementation of the IBM
SPSS AMOS structural modelling program, exploring a number of hypothesized impacts. The results of this research
help to understanding the impact of these elements on the strengthening BPM practice in the clothing industry
organizations.
Diversification opportunities in European stock markets and their impact
on textile industry development based on a financial education approach
Authors: SPULBĂR CRISTI , BIRĂU RAMONA , OLUWI VICTOR , EJAZ ABDULLAH , GORUN TIBERIU HORAȚIU , CĂLUGĂRU TONI , ALI ZULFIQAR IMRAN , MINEA LOREDANA ELENA
Published: October 2021

This research study explores the diversification opportunity among 18 European stock market indices for the sample
period from January 2001 to December 2019. However, financial education plays an important role in the development
of the textile industry, considering the dynamics of the companies listed on the European stock exchanges. The
correlation matrix, pairwise cointegration and Johansen cointegration reveal that selected 18 European stock market
indices do not reduces the portfolio risk because exhibit higher positive correlation among them, and their movement
pulsed in tandem. Potential investors are attracted by high investment opportunities in order to maximize their return
based on portfolio diversification. Financial education can effectively contribute to the sustainable growth of the textile
industry in Europe. This empirical research provides an integrated perspective on the long-term evolution of certain
major European stock exchange indices. The findings have significant implications for investors interested in selecting
these European stock indices in order to diversify their portfolio risk. Our study also imply that selected stock indices
have been strongly affected by similar political and financial belies across Europe thus, eliminating the possibility of
portfolio risk diversification.
Impact properties of continuously textile reinforced double fabric layered
riot-police-helmet-shells
Authors: ZAHID BILAL , JAMSHAID HAFSA , WAQAR RAJPUT ABDUL , CHEN XIAOGANG
Published: October 2021

The manuscript is a section of research completed for the overall impact performance of riot-police-helmet-shells having
continuously textile reinforcement. In this research paper, manufacturing of double fabric layered helmet and its impact
analysis has been discussed. Moreover, energy contained and blocking forces at various zones at the police-head
protector shells were assessed. Results are also compared with the previous work for the impact evaluation of single
piece riot-police-helmet-shell. The comparative results show significant difference in values in comparison with single
layered riot-police-helmet-shell. These results can lead to the development of Riot-police-helmet-shells that can resist
high velocity impact.
A new perspective in e-learning training toolkit development for advanced
textile research centres in Morocco and Jordan
Authors: AILENI RALUCA MARIA , CHIRIAC LAURA , RADULESCU RAZVAN ION
Published: October 2021

This paper presents an overview of training/learning tools for advanced textile research centres in Morocco and Jordan.
Within the Erasmus+ FOSTEX project, the main courses necessary for the training of researchers and students enrolled
in master’s or doctoral programs in Morocco and Jordan and who will work within the advanced research centres have
been identified and selected. Starting from good European practices on learning, teaching, research and testing
services, several courses have been structured that offer knowledge on international conformity certification,
standardization, quality management, testing/inspection, labelling, integration of technical specifications, testing
physical-mechanical, colour resistance testing, tests specific to instrumental analysis and development of advanced
materials. In order to improve the skills of human resources (research staff, masters and doctoral students), the
Erasmus+ FOSTEX consortium has developed an extensive toolkit of learning-training, thematic workshops and
services appropriate to the equipment purchased by partners in Morocco and Jordan for research centres in the field of
advanced textiles.
Textile prostheses in abdominal and pelvic surgery
Authors: SĂVULESCU ALEXANDRU-FLORIN , CÎRLAN CRISTIAN , SIMIONESCU ANCA A. , BUDRUGEAC IULIA-ANDREEA BUDRUGEAC , IORDACHE-PETRESCU MĂDĂLINA , IORDACHE MIHAI , IONESCU ALEXANDRA-BIANCA , STANCIU DRAGOȘ , SBÂRNEA EMMA-ILINCA , CĂLINA OANA CORINA
Published: October 2021

Textile prostheses have been used in abdominal surgery since ancient times. Industrial development of the last one
hundred years changed it from simple cloth to highly improved materials that are better integrated and provide superior
functional outcomes.
Understanding of the physicochemical properties of surgical meshes is essential for the rational choice of the optimal
device. This needs to be closely adapted to mechanical and biological conditions of the anatomical region that will be
placed in. The quality of the materials and the manufacturing technique are also of great importance, influencing both
the mechanical parameters and the integration of the prosthetic material. Although a hard-to-reach concept, the ideal
mesh should have high porosity, a monofilamentous structure and it should be composed of durable, non-carcinogenic,
non-allergenic, and highly biocompatible materials. These qualities will ensure a good integration of the prosthesis and
will make it easy to handle intraoperatively, resulting in a satisfactory clinical outcome.
Based on the above considerations, this article aims to bring to light useful manufacturing information regarding textile
prostheses used in surgical reconstructions, in order to support surgeons in making the correct and rational choice of
the prosthetic material, based on its physicochemical properties, thus avoiding postoperative complications.
Textile implants apply to various surgical fields such as abdominal or thoracic wall reconstruction, visceral defect repair,
pelvic floor stabilization or tissue replacement.
Postoperative complications of mesh use include chronic pain, infection, ulceration of the wound, adhesion formation,
intestinal obstruction, recurrence of parietal defect, rejection of the prosthesis, and mesh granuloma
Production and analysis of electrospun PA 6,6 and PVA nanofibrous
surfaces for filtration
Authors: DİNÇ SEZEN DÖNMEZ , GÖKTEPE FATMA
Published: October 2021

Electrospun nanofibrous surfaces were produced by using two different polymers (PA 6,6 and PVA) at three different
levels of polymer feeding rate (0.2, 0.6 and 1.0 ml/h, respectively) and three different levels of production time in
electrospinning (5, 10 and 15 minutes, respectively) and the effect of polymer type, polymer feeding rate and production
time was determined by analyzing unit weight and thickness of the nanofibrous membranes as well as fibre fineness
and pore size distributions. The results showed that much finer fibres were produced by PA 6,6 polymer compare to
PVA. The minimum average fibre fineness was 150.96 nm (by PA 6,6 polymer; 0.2 ml/h; 5 min.) while maximum fibre
fineness was 243.43 nm (by PVA polymer; 0.6 ml/h; 15 min.). Similarly, the pore sizes of nanofibrous surfaces produced
by PA 6,6 were smaller compare to the ones produced by PVA polymer. The results also indicated that coarser fibres
were produced as the polymer feed rate and electrospinning time increased. In the second part of the work, composite
structures were obtained by combining nanofibrous surfaces with PP non-woven material and their air permeability and
filtration efficiency by using an aerosol having 0.2–0.33 mm diameter range were analyzed. The air permeability of PA
6,6 nanofibrous surfaces were much higher compare to the ones produced by PVA and quite high filtration efficiency
(99.901 %) was obtained with PA 6,6 nanofibrous surfaces. Also, potential of these nanofibrous surfaces was evaluated
by analysing chemical groups eliminated following their exposure to cigarette smoke which was chosen as a specific
case study.
Reinventing the Portuguese knitwear industry: the case
of Pedrosa & Rodrigues private label management model
Authors: GUEDES GRAÇA , VAZ PAULO
Published: October 2021

During the first decade of this century, the Portuguese knitwear industry, and textile cluster, were strongly affected by
globalisation and seemed destined to decline. The Portuguese knitwear industry developed for decades a business
model based on price as the main competitive factor, and that model was no longer able to support competitiveness
against low wages countries. Portuguese knitwear industry made a dramatic change towards a competition based on
value to the client. The companies adopted as primary differentiation drives technological innovation, design, fashion,
and services customer-oriented, together with more presence on international fairs and exhibitions. The new strategy
resulted in the significant growth of exports that reached 40% from 2009 to 2018. The restructuring of the cluster,
however, changed it significantly, and the number of companies was reduced by almost 50%. The competitive change
made the entire Portuguese textile cluster an international case study where the modern concept of private label
business model is central.
The business model of private label adopted by the most competitive knitwear companies considered a full package of
services to international clients. It integrated the collection’s design, raw materials development, superior finishing,
careful and cost-effective confection and sophisticated logistics. Pedrosa & Rodrigues, SA. is a midcap company from
Barcelos County, North of Portugal, and is a highly successful example of the new competitive paradigms. This new
model is now leading the Portuguese knitwear industry to a higher level in the value chain and gives it a strong reputation
worldwide.
Predicting financial distress in the Indian textile sector
Authors: RUPESH SONI RASHMI , THONSE HAWALDAR IQBAL , SUNNY VASWANI ANJU , SPULBAR CRISTI , BIRAU RAMONA , LOREDANA MINEA ELENA , MENDON SUHAN , CRIVEANU MARIA MAGDALENA
Published: October 2021

The purpose of this paper is to predict the financial distress of companies of the Indian textile sector using Altman Z
score. The analysis conducted on 161 listed textile companies in India for a period of 10 years from 2009 to 2018. All
the listed companies are categorized into large, medium, and small using the median split method based on the size of
total assets. Kruskal Wallis test is applied to test whether the mean z-score is different for each category of companies.
This research study shows that majority of the companies in the Indian textile sector are facing financial distress. Further,
it shows that the z score of small, medium, and large-scale textile companies in India is significantly different.
ACTIVE PRINCIPLES APPLIED ON BIOMATERIALS FOR THE
CURATIVE THERAPY OF INFLAMMATORY SKIN DISEASES - A
REVIEW
Authors: Țigău A. , Vasile G. , Chirilă L. , Popescu A. , Olaru S.
Published: October 2021

Every year, millions of peoples are affected by skin injuries of either an acute or chronic nature.
Worldwide 300,000 people die every year in lower-middle-income countries due to chronic wounds and burn
injuries. Wounds are described as the disruption in the skin integrity and function, which arises from different
causes such as trauma, surgery, diabetes, and burns. Skin provides a mechanical barrier against the external
environment and has further roles in thermoregulation, metabolism and regulation of fluid balance. Skin
diseases can affect each of these regions and they can be influenced by body size, sex, age, medications, diet,
and microenvironment. Also, they can manifest whether the skin is healthy or diseased. Wound dressings are
critical to wound care, providing a physical barrier between the wound and the external environment to
prevent further damage or infection. The most promising wound dressings are biocompatible, enable physical
protection of the wound milieu against penetration of bacteria and are highly porous. The use of natural
biocompatible drugs is highly desirable in wound dressing compared to synthetic chemicals. To achieve an
adequate therapeutic effect, different polymeric systems are used for drug delivery. To improve drug efficacy,
safety, patient compliance and convenience a drug delivery system is modified to enhance drug release profile,
absorption, distribution and elimination of the drug. The present review is an attempt to brief readers about
the engineering of wound dressing materials from natural and synthetic sources upfront using active
principles, such as bee products, drugs, essential oils, metallic nanoparticles and vitamins.
DEVELOPMENT OF TEXTILE-RUBBER COMPOSITE
MATERIALS USING RECYCLED RUBBER AND TEXTILES WITH
APPLICATIONS IN INDUSTRY
Authors: Mustata F.St. C. , Curteza A.
Published: October 2021

This paper study methods to obtain composite materials based on recycled rubber from End-of-Life
tires and scrap textile. Rubber particles was obtained by industrial shredding procedures and separated by
dimension, using sieves. Recycled cotton weave was obtained from scrap cotton textiles. The composite
material was produced mixing the recycled rubber powder with a solution of acrylate rubber (AR), (NipolR
AR 51) in acetone/ethyl acetate, then coating that composition on a 100% recycled cotton weave. After
application, the composite was dried in a dryer with ventilation. The final composite material will be chemical
characterized. Attempts will be made to determine whether the composite can be used as isolation material
with temperature dissipation characteristics.
ELECTROSPINNING OF ANTIBACTERIAL POLYURETHANE/ZnO
NANOFIBERS
Authors: Mol İ.Y. , Çallioğlu F.C.
Published: October 2021

In this study, it is aimed to produce and characterize antibacterial polyurethane (PU)/Zinc oxide
(ZnO) nanofibers by electrospinning method. Firstly, polymer solutions were prepared at various ZnO
concentrations such as 0, 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, 1. Then solution properties (conductivity, viscosity, surface
tension) were determined and analysed the effects of ZnO concentration on the solution properties. PU/ZnO
nanofibers produced via electrospinning under the optimum process parameters (voltage, distance between
electrodes, feed rate and atmospheric conditions). Finally, the nanofibers were characterized in terms of
fibre morphology, thermal stability, permeability and antibacterial activity using SEM-EDS, DSC-TGA,
water vapour permeability and disk diffusion methods. According to the solution results; it was observed
that conductivity and surface tension decrease significantly with ZnO addition. On the other hand, solution
viscosity increases as the ZnO concentration increases. From the SEM images, it has been seen clearly that
average fibre diameter increases with ZnO concentration and incorporation of ZnO particles to the fibre
structure was verified by SEM-EDS. According to the thermal analyse result, nanofibers begin to degrade
between 271.94 ºC and 298.73 ºC. In addition, water vapour permeability increases as the ZnO
concentration increase. Lastly antibacterial activity against gram negative (E.coli) and gram positive (S.
aureus) was determined with specific zone diameter.
OPTIMIZATION OF SOME WEAVING MACHINE PARTS DESIGN.
THEORETICAL APPROACH
Authors: Mostafa A. , Hashima W. , El-Gholmy S. , Al-Oufy A. , Hassan M.
Published: October 2021

The factors of increasing productivity, reducing the cost and the quality improvement are the most
important research concerns in weaving machinery. Increasing the effectiveness and productivity of production
were achieved by increasing the operating time and efficiency of weaving looms. Thus, the manufacturers of
weaving equipment attempt to minimize factors that limit production speed and production conditions. Heald
frame is one of the known parts of the weaving machine that causes vibrations and noise which are important
factors that influence high-speed development of looms. In this research work, study of mechanical factors
(stresses and vibration) has been investigated for heald shaft. Finite element model of the heald frame was
constructed to simulate different type of material. Then some important natural frequencies and vibration modes
are calculated and the results. Results show a major improvement with the usage of these different material. As
well as the failure of heald shaft is mainly due to friction and vibration and not due to the stresses or weight.
CORRELATIVE AND COVARIANCE ANALYSIS OF THE
ELECTROCONDUCTIVE FABRICS
Authors: Aileni R.M. , Chiriac L.
Published: October 2021

This paper presents the correlation and covariance analysis of the electrical resistance dependence of
mass, thickness and air permeability of textile structures coated with magneto-conductive materials and used for
protection against electromagnetic waves. For this scientific approach, 9 experimental models of compositesbased
fabrics with electroconductive properties were made by applying different pastes based on organic
polymeric matrices polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), copper (Cu), aluminium (Al), zinc (Zn), iron oxide (Fe3O4) and
polypyrrole (PPY) solution using a classical deposition method such as scraping. The surface resistance was
evaluated using a resistance meter device based on two parallel electrodes. From all samples analysed 5
samples based PPY, PVA-Ni, PVA–Ni-Al and PVA-Zn present a surface resistance between 103 and 105 Ω.
Because the surface resistance has a lower value this means that the samples have a good conductivity to be
used as layers for electromagnetic shielding systems.
ROLE OF THE E-LEARNING COURSES FOR CAPACITY BUILDING
IN THE FIELD OF ADVANCED MATERIALS DEVELOPMENT
Authors: Aileni R.M. , Chiriac L.
Published: October 2021

This work presents several aspects concerning the e-learning courses about composite materials
developed for capacity building in the field of advanced materials for new or upgraded research centers in
Morocco and Jordan. The proposed course for capacity building in the field of advanced materials development
is represented by 3D advanced composites obtained through textile technologies and additive manufacturing
processes. This course presented using e-learning technologies received increased interest from students attending
the learning sessions in the framework of the Fostex Erasmus+ project because can be applied to obtain
composites for a large area of industries such as automotive, construction, medicine, electronics/electrotechnical
and aerospace. The textile composites are materials made from 2/more constituent materials with different
chemical, physical and electrical properties. When combined, these materials generate a material (composite)
with different characteristics than the initial individual components. The design and development of the composite
can lead to new materials with superior characteristics: more robust, lighter, flexible, and less expensive in
comparison with traditional materials such as metal, ceramics.
ACCESSIBILITY AND USABILITY OF THE LEARNING TOOLS TO
ACCELERATE INNOVATION IN THE FIELD OF SMART
MATERIALS DEVELOPMENT
Authors: Aileni R. M. , Chiriac L.
Published: October 2021

This work presents the general aspects concerning the accessibility and usability of the learning
tools existent for smart materials development using eco-design in the context of the circular economy. These
learning tools will be used in part and some of them developed in the framework of the Erasmus+ project
DigiTEX and will cover also the aspects of digital learning technologies capable to accelerate innovation in
the field of healthcare and protective systems based on electroconductive materials. In DigiTEX Erasmus+
project will be developed solution-based software technologies, database development and creative methods
for coaching the innovative ideas from design, development and production management in the context of
circular economy and sustainable development with reduced environmental impact. This paper is structured in
5 sections such as introduction, smart materials overview, eco-design for smart materials, circular economy
approach and conclusions.
INTEGRATION OF MAGNETIC MATERIALS WITH ACTUATOR
ROLE ON TEXTILE SUPPORTS
Authors: Grosu C. , Aileni R.M. , Olaru S.
Published: October 2021

Magnetic textile materials represent a new category of smart materials, whose properties are obtained
either by adding magnetic materials during the technological processes of obtaining fibres and yarns, either by
applying some magnetic materials on textile surfaces during the chemical finishing processes (electroless
plating, electroplating, magnetron sputtering). Therefore, by adding magnetic nano powders in the spinning
solution, fibres with magnetic properties are obtained, by adding metallic fibres, with magnetic properties,
during the spinning process, magnetic yarns are obtained, and by the insertion of a certain percent of
metallic/magnetic yarns during the weaving or knitting process, textile materials with magnetic properties are
obtained. Thus, magnetic textile materials will possess the uniqueness of a textile structure due to specific
features as flexibility, breathability or lightweight, but at the same time, also the magnetic properties necessary
in multiple applications such as magnetic sensors, actuators and electromagnetic shielding used in technical
applications for defence, automotive and aerospace.
ANTIMICROBIAL PROPERTIES OF RABBIT COLLAGEN
GLUE-CHITOSAN BIOMATERIAL LOADED WITH
CYMBOPOGON FLEXUOSUS ESSENTIAL OIL
Authors: Râpă M. , Berechet M.D. , Gaidău C. , Constantinescu R.R. , Moșuțiu A.
Published: October 2021

One approach to develop innovative antimicrobial wound dressing materials is to use natural
polymers loaded with antimicrobial agents. The valorisation of animal proteins as biomaterials with
antimicrobial properties is a new concern for development of wound healing. Plant esssential oils (EO) also
indicate a potential approach for new wound dressing materials able to replace the synthetic antymicrobial
agents. In this paper, plant-polymeric film was prepared by casting film-forming emulsion based on
lemongrass (Cymbopogon flexuosus) essential oil/Tween 80 dispersed into rabbit collagen glue hydrolysate–
chitosan biomaterial. The effect of biomaterial film composition on Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 and
Escherichia coli ATCC 10536 standard bacteria, and Candida albicans ATCC 10231 pathogenic fungus was
studied according to European Pharmacopoeia 10/2020 as compared with biomaterial film without essential
oil. The in vitro antibacterial tests against three bacterial strains showed that the rabbit collagen glue
hydrolysate–chitosan biomaterial inhibited all the three microorganisms. The rabbit collagen hydrolysate
glue-chitosan film loaded with lemongrass essential oil exhibits antimicrobial activity towards tested
microorganisms but lower as compared with control. The explanation could be due to the short time of
investigation, or maybe some active compounds constituents of EO, which favour the cellular proliferation.
Preparation of rabbit collagen glue hydrolysate-chitosan biomaterial loaded with lemongrass essential oil is
an environmentally friendly solution, which may contribute to the development of wound healing materials as
an alternative to topical antimicrobial agents.
AN INTEGRATED SOLUTION FOR THE ONLINE MARKETING OF
CUSTOM-MADE GARMENTS THAT INCORPORATES A VIRTUAL
FITTING ROOM
Authors: Avadanei M. , Matasel A. , Ionescu I. , Loghin E. , Ionesi D.
Published: October 2021

We use IT applications to solve various problems, such as buying various things, communication or
professional matters. Everything seems to be solved faster when we shop on online platforms (virtual stores)
because we can analyse several offers, see the best deals and then decide which one suits our purpose.
Sometimes the items bought online are returned for the following reasons: they do not look as they were
presented on the website; these items have functional problems or do not fit (this is the situation with clothing
and footwear products). Usually, the fit problems occur because the customer did not choose the right size, the
model does not have a size range that fits the customer, or the customer has a particular body shape. The
return rate (fit problem) can decrease if the customer can virtually try on the selected model during the
purchase process to check how it looks on their body. Assuming that customers also have the option to
personalise the product according to their body shape or desires, their satisfaction increases. In this case, the
number of returned or unsold products is reduced, and a dynamic and positive advertising campaign for the
brand can be carried out (based on customer reviews). This paper proposes an integrated solution for online
marketing of customised clothing products (website for medium or small companies), using a virtual test room
that simulates the product on the virtual mannequin in different positions (360°).
CHARACTERIZATION OF AIRBORNE PARTICLES IN
MECHANICAL TEXTILE YARNS PROCESSING
Authors: Visileanu E. , Mihai C. , Ene A. , Grosu M.C. , Scarlat R. , Vladu A.
Published: October 2021

Nano and micro plastics (NP/MPs) represent one of the most challenging classes of micropollutants,
with occurrence across all ecosystems and size distributions ranging from the nanometre to the
millimetre scale. Natural environments are receiving MPs in the form of anthropogenic direct release as well
as disintegrated and loose products of larger plastics via biological activities, mechanical abrasion, and UV
radiation. During the processing steps, the textile yarns are subjected to friction either by different driving
organs or between themselves at the binding points. The magnitude of the friction forces is influenced by the
nature of the yarns, the structure of the yarn, the type, and the raw material from which the driving organs of
the machines are made. The paper presents the shape and dimensions of the particle that is released in the air
during the abrasion resistance test of three types of polyester yarns: spun yarn, multifilament yarn, and
monofilament yarn. The structure composition of the particles consists of more microfibrils (34%.) in the case
of spun yarn and the finest microparticles were obtain from monofilament yarn (0,004μm).
PREDICTIVE MATEHMATICAL MODEL FOR ABSORBANT
SUBSTRATE ACHIEVEMENT, THROUGH ELECTROSPINNING
PROCESS
Authors: Mihai C. , Ene A.G. , Hertzog R.-G. , Popescu D. , Vladu A.F.
Published: October 2021

The new generations of wound dressings aim to create an optimal environment that allows epithelial
cells to move easily in order to support regeneration. Such optimal conditions include a humid environment
around the wound bed, efficient oxygen circulation to help regenerate cells and tissues, and low bacterial
contamination. Composite matrices have several layers and can be used as primary or secondary dressings.
Most composite dressings have three layers, respectively a semi-adherent or non-adherent layer, an absorbent
layer, and a bacterial barrier layer. A method to obtaining these materials, which can be assimilated to layerby-
layer deposition, or which can be operated in this regime, is represented by electrospinning. However, the
deposition technique by electrospinning on textile surfaces (fabrics or nonwovens) raises some problems
related to the electrostatic behaviour of textile fibres with dielectric properties. In this case, the characteristics
of the jet are affected directly proportional with the thickness of the textile material, resulting in defects of
nano- or micro-fibrillar deposition, such as unevenness and/or sputter (formation of drops, which are
deposited in mixture with electro spun fibres). The article presents a mathematical model that predicts the
diameter of the fibres in the composition of the absorbent layer of the multilayer matrix structure for the
treatment of burns or gunshot wounds, taking into account the nonlinear relationships between the parameters
explained above and specific theories of electrodynamics for thin profiles (for instance, those used in
aeronautics) for the prediction of the behaviour of the electrospinning jet.
Competing Meanings of International Experiences for Early-Career Researchers: A Collaborative Autoethnographic Approach
Authors: Sakurai Yusuke , Shimauchi Sae , Shimmi Yukiko , Amaki Yuki , Hanada Shingo , Elliot Dely
Published: October 2021

Although there is a pressing demand for international experience for early career researchers (ECRs), the meaning of this experiences arising from their day-to-day work responsibilities is still unclear. Accordingly, using our emic reflections for this autoethnographic study, we—five Japanese ECRs with years of international experiences—collaboratively explored how we made sense of our international experiences, that is, our distinct capital attained from international study and research experiences. We used Identity Trajectory as a conceptual tool to widely capture ECRs’ key experiences and sense-making. Our reflective conversations resulted in five major themes: (1) global personal network, (2) communicative competence, (3) scholarly community culture, (4) scholarly ambition and (5) pedagogical application. We consistently valued our attained capital, but simultaneously recognised dilemmas while engaging in our work. Lack of institutional support was critical, preventing us from using our international experiential capital and further developing as internationally active researchers. This study offers insights for those who may consider an academic career in Japan after returning from international sojourns and for policymakers promoting the internationalisation of Japanese higher education. Studies such as this one also contribute to the exploration of the value of international experiences for researchers in different contexts.
Is a Phone-Based Language and Literacy Assessment a Reliable and Valid Measure of Children’s Reading Skills in Low-Resource Settings?
Authors: Sobers Shauna-Marie , Anicet Konan Nana N'Goh , Tanoh Fabrice , AKPE Hermann , Ball Mary-Claire , Jasińska Kaja Kinga
Published: October 2021

PurposeTechnology-based remote research methods are increasingly widespread, including learning assessments in child development and education research. However, little is known about whether technology-based remote assessments remain as valid and reliable as in-person assessments. We developed a low-cost phone-based language and literacy assessment for primary-school children in low-resource communities in rural Côte d’Ivoire using voice calls and SMS. We compared the reliability and validity of this phone-based assessment to an established in-person assessment.Methods685 5th grade children completed language (phonological awareness, vocabulary, language comprehension) and literacy (letter, word, pseudoword, passage reading and comprehension) tasks in-person and by phone. ResultsReliability (internal consistency) and predictive validity was high across in-person and phone-based tasks. Children’s performance across in-person and phone-based assessments were moderately to strongly correlated. Phonological awareness and vocabulary skills measured in-person and by phone significantly predicted in-person and phone-based letter, word and pseudoword reading. Oral language and decoding skills measured in-person and by phone significantly predicted in-person and phone-based passage reading and comprehension.ConclusionOur phone-based assessment was a reliable and valid measure of language and reading and feasible for low-resource settings. Low-cost technologies offer significant potential to measure children’s learning remotely, increasing inclusion of remote and low-resource populations in education research.
DEVELOPMENT OF A METHODOLOGY FOR COLLECTION OF SPEECH SAMPLES OF TRANSLANGUAGING AND MULTILANGUAGING COMMUNICATIVE PRACTICES OF FOREIGN STUDENTS AT A RUSSIAN UNIVERSITY
Authors: Golovko N.V. , D.V. Sheiko D.V. ч
Published: October 2021

As a result of generalization and critical consideration of the methodological apparatus of research on translanguaging and multilanguaging as communicative practices, published over the past 10 years, the advantages and disadvantages of these methodologies are highlighted, and the problematic issues caused by them that require attention when conducting similar studies are formulated. On this theoretical foundation, possible solutions to these problematic issues, on which the effectiveness and objectivity of empirical studies of translanguaging and multilanguaging may depend, including those conducted on the material of oral and written speech generated during the educational process in higher education, are proposed, and the development of a methodology for collecting speech samples for the needs of a research project aimed at the study of translanguaging and multilanguaging communicative practices of foreign students at a Russian university is performed, based on the authors' desire to maximize the positive aspects of the earlier proposed methodological approaches and mitigate the influence of factors that could potentially have a negative impact on the results and their interpretation.
ON SOME METHODS OF WORKING WITH GERMAN-LANGUAGE TEXTS WITHIN THE DISCIPLINE "FOREIGN LANGUAGE IN PROFESSIONAL ACTIVITIES" AT A NON-LINGUISTIC FACULTY
Authors: Gryzlova G.A.
Published: October 2021

The relevance of the appeal to the problem of formation of professional and communicative competence of specialists is determined not only by State Educational Standards of the latest generation, but also by the cognitive needs and the interests of students. The article is focused on the importance of developing discourse competence as a part of profession-oriented communication of nonlinguistic faculty students in the process of studies of German. The leading strategy of training of future specialists becomes a competent approach. In order to achieve a certain level of ownership of discursive competence, it is necessary to teach students-masters to own and operate the vocabulary of the professional sphere, to form skills, including skills to understand, allocate, structure and apply lexical, grammatical resources of a foreign language, define text genres, predict.
FRIEDRICH HÖLDERLIN's AESTHETICS BETWEEN PLATO AND KANT (TO THE QUESTION OF FORMATION OF THE CATEGORIES OF THE BEAUTIFUL AND SUBLIME)
Authors: I.B. Kazakova I.B. ч
Published: October 2021

The article analyzes the aesthetic views of Friedrich Hölderlin, and, first, his understanding of the categories of the Beautiful and Sublime. Particular attention is paid to the comparison of Hölderlin's views with the aesthetic teachings of Plato and Immanuel Kant, who had a great influence on the German poet. The author of the article concludes that Hölderlin sought to unite the Platonian and Kantian understanding of beauty, seeing the similarity between the concepts of Plato and Kant in the question of the source of the beautiful. The central for aesthetics of Hölderlin was the problem of combining the spheres of aesthetic and ethical, to solve which he relied on the idea of Kant about beautiful as a symbol of the moral good and the Teaching of Plato on the climbing of the soul to the Good. Hölderlin pays less attention to the theoretical development of the category of the Sublime than to the comprehension of the category of the Beautiful, however, in his writings, the Sublime is present implicitly, and Hölderlin's understanding of this category is close, on the one hand, to Platonian, bringing together the Beautiful and the Sublime, and, on the other, to Kantian understanding, which brings the Sublime together with the idea of infinity, God and the sphere of morality. The conclusions to which Hölderlin comes, are far from Platonism, and from Kantianism. The poet concludes about the central and leading role of poetry and poetic gift in the knowledge of the world, which should be aesthetic. This indicates a romantic way to interpret Hölderlin's aesthetic concepts of Plato and Kant.
ETHICAL AHD PSYCHOLOGICAL FACTOR IN ARMY PROSE BY A. KUPRIN AND A. GREEN
Authors: Rui Zhang
Published: October 2021

The article concludes that Kuprin's prose has some influence on Green's work. The biographical basis of their army prose, the similarity of the authors' positions in describing the dramatic fate of a soldier and his psychological trauma, the suppression of his individuality by the army system, the conflict between self-awareness and depersonalization, the fear factor of a person who is naturally incapable of a military regime are pointed out. The following differences are noted: Kuprin reinforces the motive of pity for the humiliated soldier at the expense of the motive of sympathy for him by a young military officer - a protogonist and reasoner; in Green's stories, the characters don’t have double identities; Green's social revolutionary views led to the appearance of a rebel soldier in his stories, but the soldier is a passive character in Kuprin's stories.
COGNITIVE FOUNDATION OF ZOONYMS IN KUBAN SUB-DIALECTS: SYNCHRONOUS AND DIACHRONOUS MOTIVEMES
Authors: Borisova O.G. , Kostina L.Yu.
Published: October 2021

This article, based on cognitive dialectology principles, presents the results of research of motivational models for animal naming in Kuban region sub-dialects. It establishes synchronous and diachronous motivational characteristics of dialect zoonyms, which have direction properties and are generally similar to the ones observed in Russian sub-dialects and Common Slavic context. It identifies various motivemes different by their degree of productivity, which include age, color, habitat, sounds made by an animal, its behavioral features, means of getting food, human actions it is exposed to, etc. The article reviews personified folk names of animals and zoonym euphemisms. It demonstrates that the folk etymology can be projected not only in a synchronous plane, but in a diachronous one as well, thus showing the metalinguistic consciousness of linguistically creative sub-dialect carriers who possess some background knowledge. The article demonstrates the ethnocultural features that reflect the unique world view of Kuban sub-dialect carriers, which manifests in peculiar implementation of motivemes in folk naming of animals.
GENRE FEATURES OF MILITARY AVIATION NEWS TEXTS IN FOREIGN MEDIA DISCOURSE
Authors: Kalashnikova O.A. , Samoylova A.V.
Published: October 2021

In the activity of military translator much emphasis is put on the work with professionally-related texts. The article deals with the description of military aviation news texts in a foreign media discourse. On the basis of inter-discipline approach a news text is defined as a genre-stylistic variety of a media-text and discourse, as well as its distinctive features and criteria for analysis are described. According to the results of research news texts of military discourse are represented by informative and informative-analytical genres. Informative genres include military headline, breaking news, daily report and informative article; informative-analytical ones comprise analytical article, review and commentary. The article focuses on typological features of distinguished genres, including their functional purpose, structure and composition, content and lexical manifestation. Conclusion has been made that media environment has an impact on genre features of news texts with the aim to influence development of political views of the readers.
FIELD MODELLING OF SPEECH GENRE (CASE STUDY OF ELITE BRAND GOODS IN INSTAGRAM)
Authors: Savochkina E.A.
Published: October 2021

The article is striving to describe one of the genres of advertising discourse - the advertising of elite brand goods in Instagram - through the theory of speech genres. The study is based on the following principles of the theory: all communication phenomena can be described through their primary or secondary nature; any speech genre has a field structure. A field consists of a core represented by features opposing this genre to other genres, and periphery represented by shared features. Field features of a genre are represented by language units of different levels grouped around some invariant content which depends on the topic and aim of communication. We have built a field model of speech genre of advertising of elite brand goods in Instagram, where the core features are word-play, highly expressive vocabulary and allusions which all aim to create positive image of elite goods. The field periphery has been split into closer periphery (common for all e-advertising) and farther periphery (represented by features common for advertising in general). The features of closer periphery are instant, ubiquitous and interactive nature. The features of farther periphery are informative and evaluative character, inducement and creolized nature.
The Application of The Sustainable Development Concept In Indonesia’s Environmental Law
Authors: Nurmayani Nurmayani , Deviani Eka , Mahdewi Risa , Banjarani Desia Rakhma
Published: October 2021

The reality of state life places the environment in sustainable development as an integral part of the national dynamics development. Moreover, Indonesia itself has issued various policies and instruments in the development of environmental law. Therefore, the development of environmental law cannot be separated from efforts to develop environmental law in accordance with international and national concepts or principles, one of which is the concept of sustainable development. However, environmental problems in Indonesia often occur, for example, forest fires, river pollution, air pollution, garbage, etc. This can raise doubts for the Indonesian people regarding the concept of sustainable development has really been applied in environmental law regulations in Indonesia so that it is necessary to examine the application of the sustainable development concept in Indonesia’s environmental law. Based on this background, the problem discussed in this paper is how the concept and application of sustainable development are in Indonesia’s environmental law? The method used in this article is normative legal research with a library law approach. The results of the study indicate that environmental law regulations in Indonesia such as: Law Number 4 of 1982 concerning Basic Provisions for Environmental Management, Law Number 23 of 1997 concerning Environmental Management, Law no. 32 of 2009 concerning Environmental Protection and Management, and Law no. 11 of 2020 concerning Job Creation, has been in accordance with the concept of sustainable development as stated in the articles in each of these laws.
Derivati dei nomi dei mesi (Ottobre)
Authors: Francalanci Lucia
Published: October 2021

Dopo le schede dedicate ai derivati di gennaio, febbraio, marzo, aprile, maggio, giugno, luglio, agosto e settembre continuiamo la pubblicazione della nostra rubrica con la scheda relativa a ottobre. Per le informazioni generali e la bibliografia si rimanda all'Introduzione.
Tshiota Rituals among the Luba People of Kasai Central in the Democratic Republic of Congo
Authors: Bakamana David Bilungule , Magesa Laurenti , Abenguuni Majawa Clement Chinkambako
Published: October 2021

Among the Luba people, the tshiota is one of the powerful types of indigenous manga (charms) used by the community. Tshiota is a traditional fire of power used for rituals, where invocations are made to the departed ancestors, spirits, and angels. It is a place of purification, cleansing, blessings, and making sacrifices. The study employed a qualitative research that was rooted in phenomenology. The concentration of the study was on the Kasai Central Province for two main reasons: one, the region has one of the major ethnic groups in the country and thus adequate evidence exists of use of manga in the area. The target population for the study was the Luba people who lived in Kasai Central Province. From this target population, charm givers, militia and political leaders were selected as the units of observation by the researcher.The findings of the research established tshiota is used to perform rituals and invocations to call upon the ancestors for help when there is a problem in the community. This help includes protection of community members before they go out to perform an activity on behalf of the community. This includes activities such as fighting during war. Tshiota fire was used also by the militia including Kamwina Nsapu who were fighting the government. They were initiated through fires of tshiota and drinking a powerful potion called tshizaba. Manga made the militia to be very powerful and strong in their fight for justice and good governance in Kasai. Through this abilities, they were able to fight and win against the modern day government in their effort to bring change and accountability in modern political leadership.  Manga were used to deal with corruption and other mal-practices, hence bring forth justice and good governance in Kasai Central Province, in DRC.