bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Phylogeography of the white‐tailed eagle, a generalist with large dispersal capacity
Authors: Hailer F. , Helander B. , Folkestad A. O. , Ganusevich S. A. , Garstad S. , Hauff P. , Koren C. , Masterov V. B. , Nygård T. , Rudnick J. A. , Shiraki S. , Skarphedinsson K. , Volke V. , Wille F. , Vilà C.
Published: April 2007

Aim Late Pleistocene glacial changes had a major impact on many boreal and temperate taxa, and this impact can still be detected in the present‐day phylogeographic structure of these taxa. However, only minor effects are expected in species with generalist habitat requirements and high dispersal capability. One such species is the white‐tailed eagle,Haliaeetus albicilla, and we therefore tested for the expected weak population structure at a continental level in this species. This also allowed us to describe phylogeographic patterns, and to deduce Ice Age refugia and patterns of postglacial recolonization of Eurasia.

Location Breeding populations from the easternmost Nearctic (Greenland) and across the Palaearctic (Iceland, continental Europe, central and eastern Asia, and Japan).

Methods Sequencing of a 500 base‐pair fragment of the mitochondrial DNA control region in 237 samples from throughout the distribution range.

Results Our analysis revealed pronounced phylogeographic structure. Overall, low genetic variability was observed across the entire range. Haplotypes clustered in two distinct haplogroups with a predominantly eastern or western distribution, and extensive overlap in Europe. These two major lineages diverged during the late Pleistocene. The eastern haplogroup showed a pattern of rapid population expansion and colonization of Eurasia around the end of the Pleistocene. The western haplogroup had lower diversity and was absent from the populations in eastern Asia. These results suggest survival during the last glaciation in two refugia, probably located in central and western Eurasia, followed by postglacial population expansion and admixture. Relatively high genetic diversity was observed in northern regions that were ice‐covered during the last glacial maximum. This, and phylogenetic relationships between haplotypes encountered in the north, indicates substantial population expansion at high latitudes. Areas of glacial meltwater runoff and proglacial lakes could have provided suitable habitats for such population growth.

Main conclusions This study shows that glacial climate fluctuations had a substantial impact on white‐tailed eagles, both in terms of distribution and demography. These results suggest that even species with large dispersal capabilities and relatively broad habitat requirements were strongly affected by the Pleistocene climatic shifts.
Steatohepatitis is associated with diabetes and fibrosis in genotype 1b HCV‐related chronic liver disease
Authors: Masarone M. , La Mura V. , Bruno S. , Gaeta G. B. , Vecchione R. , Carrino F. , Moschella F. , Torella R. , Persico M.
Published: May 2007

Summary.  Liver steatosis, diabetes mellitus and hepatitis C virus (HCV) genotype have been implicated in liver fibrosis in HCV‐related chronic active hepatitis (CAH). The aim of this study was to evaluate whether steatosis and diabetes were associated with more severe liver fibrosis in patients with genotype 1b HCV‐related CAH. One‐hundred and eighty patients (98 men, 82 women; age range 17–68 years; median 51) infected with genotype 1b HCV underwent ultrasound examination and liver biopsy because of elevated levels of serum alanine transaminase. Based on liver histology, patients were divided into three steatosis classes: 1 (involving <33% of hepatocytes), 2 (34–66%) and 3 (>66%). Fibrosis was graded with the Ishak score (range: 0–6). Virological and epidemiologic characteristics, biochemical data, body mass index, and apparent duration of disease were recorded. Diabetes was identified according to American Diabetes Association criteria. The median fibrosis grade was 2 (23 patients had liver cirrhosis) in the three steatosis classes, with no significant differences between classes. At multivariate analysis, fibrosis was significantly related to age, alanine transaminase, diabetes, hepatitis B core antibody, steatohepatitis and grading. At binary logistic regression analysis, only diabetes and fibrosis stage were significantly associated with steatohepatitis. Steatosis was not an independent risk factor for liver disease severity in our CAH/genotype 1b HCV‐infected patients. Steatohepatitis was associated as well as diabetes and affected the severity of liver fibrosis.
Differences of YMDD mutational patterns, precore/core promoter mutations, serum HBV DNA levels in lamivudine‐resistant hepatitis B genotypes B and C
Authors: Pan X. P. , Li L. J. , Du W. B. , Li M. W. , Cao H. C. , Sheng J. F.
Published: May 2007

Summary.  The aims of this study were to investigate the viral differences among lamivudine‐resistant hepatitis B virus (HBV) genotypes B and C in vivo. Fifty‐three patients carrying lamivudine‐resistant HBV were enrolled in this study. HBV genotypes, Levels of alanine aminotransferase (ALT), HBV DNA levels were monitored during therapy. The polymerase and precore/core promoter genes were amplified by polymerase chain reaction and their products were sequenced directly. Among 53 patients resistant HBV genotypes B and C accounted for 41.50% and 58.50%, respectively. The occurrence of reverse transcriptase rt204I mutants was lower in genotype B (36.36%) than that in genotype C (87.10%), whereas rt204V mutants was higher in genotype B (63.64%) than that in genotype C (12.90%). The occurrence of precore mutation (nt1896A) was higher in genotype B (77.27%) than that in genotype C (32.26%). Serum HBV DNA levels after emergence of lamivudine resistance were higher in genotype C (7.71 ± 0.80 Log copies/mL) compared with genotype B (6.97 ± 0.77 Log copies/mL). Multivariate analysis identified pretreatment HBV DNA levels, HBeAg status and HBV genotype as independent factors associated with a shorter time to lamivudine resistance(P = 0.035, P = 0.006 and P = 0.001, respectively). Multivariate analysis showed that HBV genotype (P = 0.004) and pretreatment ALT levels (P = 0.01) was independently associated with YMDD mutational patterns. The results showed that the YMDD mutational patterns, precore mutation and serum HBV DNA levels differ between lamivudine‐resistant HBV genotypes B and C in vivo. It is valuable for treatment of lamivudine‐resistant HBV in clinic.
Heritable body size mediates apparent life‐history trade‐offs in a simultaneous hermaphrodite
Authors: MILLER B. L. W. , SINERVO B.
Published: May 2007

Physiological trade‐offs between life‐history traits can constrain natural selection and maintain genetic variation in the face of selection, thereby shaping evolutionary trajectories. This study examines physiological trade‐offs in simultaneously hermaphroditic banana slugs, Ariolimax dolichophallus. These slugs have high heritable variation in body size, which strongly predicts the number of clutches laid, hatching success and progeny growth rate. These fitness components were associated, but only when examined in correlation with body size. Body size mediated these apparent trade‐offs in a continuum where small animals produced rapidly growing progeny, intermediate‐sized animals laid many clutches and large animals had high hatching success. This study uses a novel statistical method in which the components of fitness are analysed in a mancova and related to a common covariate, body size, which has high heritability. The mancova reveals physiological trade‐offs among the components of fitness that were previously masked by high variation in body size.
Does predation select for or against avian coloniality? A comparative analysis
Authors: VARELA S. A. M. , DANCHIN É. , WAGNER R. H.
Published: May 2007

Some studies have supported predation as a selective pressure contributing to the evolution of coloniality. However, evidence also exists that colonies attract predators, selecting against colonial breeding. Using comparative analyses, we tested the reduced predation hypothesis that individuals aggregate into colonies for protection, and the opposite hypothesis, that breeding aggregations increase predation risk. We used locational and physical characteristics of nests to estimate levels of species’ vulnerability to predation. We analysed the Ciconiiformes, a large avian order with the highest prevalence of coloniality, using Pagel's general method of comparative analysis for discrete variables. A common requirement of both hypotheses, that there is correlated evolution between coloniality and vulnerability to predation, was fulfilled in our data set of 363 species. The main predictions of the reduced predation hypothesis were not supported, namely that (1) solitary/vulnerable species are more prone to become colonial than solitary/protected species and (2) colonial/protected species are more likely to evolve towards vulnerability than solitary/protected species. In contrast, the main predictions of the increased predation hypothesis were supported, namely that colonial/vulnerable species are more prone (1) to become protected than solitary/vulnerable species and/or (2) to become solitary than colonial/protected species. This suggests that the colonial/vulnerable state is especially exposed to predation as coloniality may often attract predators rather than provide safety.
Admixture and patterns of linkage disequilibrium in a free‐living vertebrate population
Authors: SLATE J. , PEMBERTON J. M.
Published: May 2007

Linkage disequilibrium (LD), a measure of nonrandom association of alleles at different loci, is of great interest to evolutionary geneticists as it can be used to help identify loci that explain phenotypic variation. Surveys of the extent of LD across genomes have been carried out in a number of systems, most notably humans and model organisms. However, studies of natural populations of vertebrates have rarely been performed. Here, we describe an investigation of LD in a free‐living island population of red deer Cervus elaphus. Relatively high levels of LD extended several tens of centimorgans, and significant LD was frequently detected between unlinked markers. The magnitude of LD varied depending on how the population was sampled. It also varied across different chromosomes, and was shown to be a function of sample size, intermarker distance and marker heterozygosity. A recent admixture event in the population led to an ephemeral increase in LD. Association mapping may be possible in this population, although a high ‘baseline’ level of LD could lead to false positive associations between marker loci and a trait of interest.
Genetic population structure, queen supersedure and social polymorphism in a social Hymenoptera
Authors: BARGUM K. , HELANTERÄ H. , SUNDSTRÖM L.
Published: May 2007

In social insects, the emergence of multiple queening is linked to changes in a suite of traits such as the reproductive life span of queens, mating patterns and population structure. We investigated queen turnover, colony longevity, spatial distribution patterns and genetic differentiation in a population of the socially polymorphic antFormica fusca. Genetic differentiation between the social forms was absent, and mating patterns were similar in the two forms. The spatial distribution of single‐ and multi‐queen colonies indicated an absence of colony reproduction by budding in both colony types. However, the rate of queen supersedure was high in multi‐queen colonies and absent in single‐queen ones. The social structure of colonies remained stable across years, but colony mortality did not differ between the two social forms. These results imply that differences between social types may appear and persist also in sympatry, and that these differences may occur in some traits, but not others, despite the presence of homogenizing gene flow.
Emulsion multiple de type L/H/L: étude de l'obtention et du mécanisme de libération
Authors: BAILLET A. , PIRISHI E. , VAUTION C. , GROSSIORD J.L. , FERRIER‐BAYLOCQ D. , SEILLER M.
Published: May 2007

Une émulsion multiple L/H/L contenant de l'huile d'amande douce en phase interne et de la paraffine liquide légère en phase externe a été mise au point. Pour cette étude, la nature de l'émulsionnant primaire puis le taux et la nature de l'émulsionnant secondaire ainsi que le pourcentage de l'émulsion primaire à disperser pour l'obtention de l'émulsion multiple, ont été optimisés. Le rôle de chacun de ces constituants a été envisagé dans la stabilisation de l'émulsion multiple ainsi que celui des différents additifs ultérieurement introduits. La différence de nature chimique entre les phases huileuses externe et interne et l'introduction de traceurs ont permis de suivre la stabilité de l'émulsion dans le temps et d'appréhender le mécanisme de libération de substances actives dans ce type de système, par dosages chromatographiques de l'acide oléique et de la vitamine E dans la paraffine liquide légère. Le taux de vitamine E libéré est inférieur à celui de l'acide oléique. Ce phénomène s'explique par une rétention de la vitamine E dans le réseau formé par les tensioactifs polymériques utilisés. La libération apparait done essentiellement provenir de l'éclatement des globules aqueux.

Multiple emulsion of oil in water in oil type: preparation and breakdown mechanisms
Application of TLC and HPTLC in the analysis of semipermanent hair dyes
Authors: MARIANI EMILIA , BARGAGNA ALBERTO , LONGOBARDI MARIO , DORATO STEFANO
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Semipermanent or direct colouring includes any product capable of affecting to some extent a change in the natural hair colour that will last through at least five shampoo washings. Semipermanent dyes are simple and easy to use, as opposed to oxidation dyes, and are normally formulated for application on nonbleached hair. Following increases in supply of such formulations, we have started an analysis for quality control purposes of 21 commonly marketed dyestuffs (nitroaminobenzenes, anthraquinone and Arianor dyes) and 20 colouring products manufactured by four leading companies. By using TLC (silica gel and reversed phase) and HPTLC (silica gel) procedures we have determined relative retention values to 1,3‐diamino‐4‐nitrobenzene of standards and dyes found in the commercial products. All the values reported (standards and samples) are the average of five analytical results (+/‐SD).
Principles for the conduct of non‐drug clinical studies*
Authors: SCHMITT GERHARD J.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

The World Medical Association's Declaration of Helsinki outlines the principles for the conduct of drug and non‐drug clinical studies. The key difference between drug and non‐drug biomedical research is to be seen in the fact that for non‐drugs, the potential benefits, hazards and discomforts for the volunteer enrolled in a clinical study cannot be weighed against advantages of improving current diagnostic or therapeutic methods. The principles reflected in the Guidelines for Good Clinical Practice for Trials on Medicinal Products in the European Community, issued by the Commission of the European Communities in substantial parts also apply for trials on non‐medicinal products. Specifically this is true with regard to the requirements for the privacy, integrity, and well‐being of volunteers subjected to research, and fully informing them about the risks and benefits potentially associated with the use of a test product. Skin care products are the most prominent group of non‐drug products for which clinical studies are conducted. Using these products, the key differences between executing the principles in a non‐drug and a drug clinical study are highlighted.
First‐derivative spectroscopic determination of sunscreens in cosmetic formulations
Authors: MICHAUD P. , SOTO P. , ROY T. LE , RODRIGUEZ F.
Published: May 2007

Nowadays, cosmetic as well as pharmaceutical forms must undergo many controls, i.e. in‐process controls on the finished product and stability testing. The authors suggest using first derivative spectroscopy for active ingredients assay presenting an ultra‐violet absorption. It offers the advantage of a direct assay through simple dilution and without active ingredient extraction.

Tests were made on classic mixtures of the sunscreens benzimidazol and cinnamate derivative (pair 1), and a mixture of two benzophenones (pair 2). The studied forms were solutions in propylene glycol and commercialized W/O and O/W creams.

After analytical method validation for each sunscreen by precision, reproducibility and repeatability studies, the percentages of error of the various assays have been reported in various preparations (solutions or creams).

A comparative study between HPLC assay (traditionally used) and the proposed method was carried out. The results show that a highly significant linear correlation exists between the two methods for the four sunscreens (R > 0.992). The speed and simplicity of the first derivative spectrometric method should find applications in routine control or in development of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations.
Infrared photoprotection properties of cosmetic products: correlation between measurement of the anti‐erythemic effect in vivo in man and the infrared reflection power in vitro
Authors: VIOLIN L. , GIRARD F. , GIRARD P. , MEILLE J.P. , PETIT‐RAMEL M.
Published: May 2007

Measurements were carried out on 19 commercial cosmetic samples. Initially, their anti‐infrared properties were quantified, in vivo, on healthy volunteers, by measuring variations in the Colorimetric Erythema Index ΔCEI, before and after application of a normalized quantity of product. Subsequently, the physico‐chemical response of the product was tested in vitro by measuring the infrared reflection coefficient ΔIR at 800 nm.

The correlation established between these two parameters enables products to be ranked in three categories. A good correlation was demonstrated between reflective power (ΔIR) and anti‐erythemic properties (—ΔCEI) of the products in the first two groups.

A qualitative examination of the diffraction of X‐rays confirms the presence of titanium dioxide, TiO2 rutile, in most products with high IR protection properties whereas TiO2 anatase was detected in a sample with no IR reflection properties.
Activity of Vittel water on proliferation of human fibroblasts, proliferation and differentiation of human keratinocytes
Authors: COLLOBER I. , NOEL‐HUDSON M. S. , WEPIERRE J. , MONTASTIER CH.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

The effects of Vittel water on the proliferation of fibroblasts, proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes from human origin were studied. To determine the relative importance of calcium and other elements of the mineral water, cultures were raised in a low‐calcium medium (low‐Ca medium), in a medium prepared with Vittel water (Vittel medium) and in a medium containing an identical calcium concentration to that of Vittel medium (Ca medium). The fibroblasts and keratinocytes were cultured in immersion for proliferation assays and on a reconstructed epidermis at the air‐liquid interface to evaluate keratinocyte differentiation. Vittel medium decreased proliferation of keratinocytes when compared to low‐Ca medium. The effect was similar to that of Ca medium at the beginning of the experiment, but significantly higher at day 7. A stratified epithelium appeared with the three types of media when keratinocytes were incubated at the air‐liquid interface; however the number of sheets was more regular and greater in Vittel medium and Ca medium than in low‐Ca medium. Filaggrin and transglutaminase expression appeared earlier with Vittel medium than with the other media. After 2 weeks, expression of markers was similar in the three media. After 3 weeks culture in Vittel medium, there was a greater expression of filaggrin. Proliferation of young fibroblasts was significantly higher in Vittel medium than in Ca medium. It was lower in low‐ Ca medium. With old fibroblasts the degree of proliferation was lower than with young fibroblasts. The augmentation of proliferation happen earlier in Vittel medium than in low‐Ca medium and Ca medium. Vittel medium regulated the growth rate of old fibroblasts, rendering it identical to that of young fibroblasts in low‐Ca medium. The effects of Vittel water were not linked to the sole presence of calcium since, with medium at an equimolecular concentration in calcium, the medium containing Vittel water had a better activity. One explanation of these effects of Vittel water might be the presence of magnesium.
Enhanced substantivity of hyaluronic acid on keratin substrates via polymer complexation
Authors: PAVLICHKO J.P. , GODDARD E.D. , BAND P.A. , LESCHINER A.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Complexes of glycosaminoglycans and certain cationic polymers have been identified which provide utility in skin and hair care applications. The combination of biologically engineered hyaluronic acid and the cationic cellulose polymer, polyquaternium‐10, results in a unique, stable, multifunctional, association complex with enhanced polymer functionality. Complexation of the anionic and cationic polysaccharide polymers renders hyaluronic acid substantive to keratin, as evidenced by zeta potential changes of the surface charge of hair via electrokinetic streaming potential measurements. Radiolabelling techniques show as much as a ten‐fold increase in bound hyaluronic acid on hair after water rinsing. The resulting ‘enhanced’substantivity of hyaluronic acid, as part of the complex, thus extends the time hyaluronic acid remains in contact with keratinous surfaces, prolonging its humectant, moisturizing and skin‐smoothening effects.
New protein ingredients for skin detergency: native wheat protein–surfactant complexes
Authors: TEGLIA A. , SECCHI G.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

The cutaneous tolerability of detergent formulations can be improved by means of suitable additives. Exogenous proteins, for example, are able to reduce the skin irritation potential of surfactants according to a double mechanism: they complex the surfactant molecules lowering the concentration of their free monomeric species; they link to the skin keratin forming a protective colloidal layer that shields the denaturing attack of surfactants. Protein derivatives used as additives for detergency are usually prepared by partial hydrolysis of animal scleroproteins or plant reserve proteins. The main purpose of the hydrolytic cleavage is to make them water soluble and suitable for liquid products. Native, non hydrolysed wheat proteins have been recently introduced as active ingredients for detergents. Water solubility and stability are obtained by means of complexation with surfactants which also increases their actual hydrophobicity, an important parameter affecting cosmetic properties of proteins. The anti‐irritant properties of these new derivatives of detergents have been evaluated by in vitro predictive tests (swelling response of collagen membranes), by acute irritancy in vivo methods (occlusive patch tests) and by use tests (forearm washing test). Transepidermal water loss and electric capacitance have been adopted as investigation techniques to evaluate the skin integrity/damage after the in vivo tests. The performance of native wheat protein‐surfactant complexes has been compared with traditional protein hydrolysates and to amphoteric surfactants as detergent additives. The results show a noticeable reduction of skin irritation in surfactant formulations with addition of native wheat proteins.
Chemico‐physical and functional properties of inorganic sunscreens in cosmetic products
Authors: SEMENZATO A. , DALL'AGLIO C. , BOSCARINI G.M. , ONGARO A. , BETTERO A. , SANGALLI M.E. , BRUNETTA F.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

This paper reports preliminary results of a study carried out on liquid crystal emulsions added to three different inorganic sunscreens: ultrafine zinc oxide, ultrafine titanium dioxide (inorganic‐treated) and ultrafine titanium dioxide (organic‐treated hydrophobically).

The aim of the work was to investigate the influence of chemico‐physical properties of inorganic sunscreens on the microstructure of cosmetic emulsions. The study was carried out using three different techniques: rheological measurements performed in dynamic conditions, to study the homogeneity of samples and their structural features; dispersion of powders in emulsions by optical microscopy and SEM/EDX analysis; and functionality of emulsions by UV spectroscopy, with adhesive tape as substrate.

Results show that the different chemico‐physical properties of the micropigments lead to different interactions with emulsion components; these interactions may affect the functionality and microstructure of the whole system, with loss of stability.
LDV assessment of methyl nicotinate biological response in aqueous solution against that of a w/o microemulsion system
Authors: MELONI M. , POELMAN M.C. , LAVAZZA M.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

The aim of this work was to check if the specific microstructure of a water/oil nonionic microemulsion could induce a modification of the bioavailability of a probe (methyl nicotinate). The vasodilatory drug effects were recorded by laser doppler velocimetry in vivo, in man. The results show a quicker activity, and a better release of the drug in the microemulsion, than in the well‐known kinetics of an aqueous solution.
Determination of impurities in oxidation hair dyes as raw materials by liquid chromatography (HPLC)
Authors: ANDRISANO V. , CAVRINI V. , SUMMER P. , PASSUTI S.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Oxidation hair dyes as raw materials may present toxic impurities from synthesis or degradation pathways, which are responsible for allergic phenomena. In the present study selective and sensitive HPLC methods are proposed for the determination of Bandrowski base, 4‐chloroaniline, 1,2‐phenylenediamine and 4,4′‐diaminoazobenzene in 1,4‐phenylenediamine as well as 2,4‐diaminoanisole in N‐hydroxyethyl‐4‐methoxy‐1,3‐phenylenediamine. The proposed methods, based on reversed phase mode separation using 1,8‐diaminooctane as amine modifier and photodiode array detection, proved to be suitable for the purity assessment of these widely used hair dyes; in particular the cited potential impurities were determined at ppm level.
Capacitance, transepidermal water loss and causal level of sebum in healthy subjects in relation to site, sex and age
Authors: CONTI A. , SCHIAVI M.E. , SEIDENARI S.
Published: May 2007

To determine normal levels of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), capacitance and sebum according to different sex and age groups, 93 healthy subjects were studied at 14 different anatomical locations with three different instruments: the Evaporimeter EP 1, the Corneometer CM 820, and the Sebumeter SM 810, evaluating respectively the transepidermal water loss, the capacitance and the causal level of sebum. Differences depending on the anatomical site were noticed. Unlike the capacitance, the transepidermal water loss and the causal level of sebum significantly decreased according to age. Furthermore, in some sites, male subjects showed a significantly higher transepidermal water loss than females, while hydration of the horny layer expressed by the capacitance showed an opposite trend. Correlations between the above‐mentioned skin parameters were calculated: a positive correlation between TEWL and hydration was observed only at plantar and palmar areas.
Protective effect evaluation of free radical scavengers on UVB induced human cutaneous erythema by skin reflectance spectrophotometry
Authors: MONTENEGRO L. , BONINA F. , RIGANO L. , GIOGILLI S. , SIRIGU S.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

This paper assesses the suitability of UVB induced skin erythema measured by reflectance spectrophotometry in humans as a model for differentiating topical efficacy of free radical scavengers. Two different formulations (aqueous gels and O/W emulsions) of each active compound (tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione, ascorbyl palmitate) were tested on healthy human volunteers before and after skin exposure to UVB radiation. Skin erythema was monitored by calculating erythema index values from the skin spectral data obtained using a reflectance spectrophotometer. The free radical scavengers tested were not able to inhibit UVB induced skin erythema from both formulations when they were topically applied before UVB irradiation. Applying the free radical scavenger formulations after skin exposure to UVB radiation, glutathione and SOD showed the best ability in inhibiting the induced erythema (percentage inhibition 53.3 and 41.6%, respectively from gels). Tocopherol and tocopherol acetate inhibited UVB skin erythema by 27% while ascorbyl palmitate showed a poor efficacy. For all the active compounds tested, no significant difference was observed comparing the results obtained from gels to those from emulsions. Liposomal gel formulations containing the free radical scavengers which showed the best activity (SOD and glutathione) were prepared and topically applied after skin exposure to UVB radiation. SOD and glutathione liposomal formulations were more effective than the corresponding conventional gels. The proposed model, if validated by further studies, could be useful for differentiating the effectiveness of free radical scavengers in inhibiting photoaging due to long‐term sunlight skin exposure.
Opto‐thermal measurements for the non‐invasive, non‐occlusive monitoring of in vivo skin condition
Authors: BINDRA R.M.S. , IMHOF R.E. , ANDREW J.J. , CUMMINS P.G. , ECCLESTON G.M.
Published: May 2007

Opto‐thermal transient radiometry (OTTER) is a non‐invasive measurement technique, well suited for in vivo skin research. Its excitation and detection wavelengths can be selected to give a high sensitivity to stratum corneum hydration. This is demonstrated with measurements of hydration changes resulting from occlusion with a neoprene cover and with a topical application of an occlusive preparation. In the former case, the hydration was found to recover to normal levels upon exposure to atmospheric conditions in a characteristic time of 15 min. In the latter case, a topical application of petroleum jelly was found to lead to a doubling of stratum corneum hydration over 2h. This ability to measure hydration changes in the presence of topical hydrating agents is thought to be a particularly valuable property of the OTTER technique. With a different choice of excitation and detection wavelengths, OTTER can be used to measure skin thickness, from the surface down to the vascular bed. This technique was used to measure a skin thickness map of the ventral surface of the forearm of a volunteer, showing distinct thickening near the wrist and ulna. Another use of this technique is the study of changes in subcutaneous blood distribution associated with erythema. As a demonstration of this, blood distribution changes brought about by the topical application of a salicylate/nicotinate preparation were studied. The main finding is that the subcutaneous blood spreads towards the surface, with the mean depth decreasing from 63 μm to 55μm.
Cosmetic preservation and structure‐activity relationships of 4‐diazo‐pyrazole‐5‐carboxamides
Authors: BARALDI P.G. , GUARNERI M. , BADER S. , ZANOTTI F. , MANFREDINI S. , SPALLUTO G. , CACCIARI B. , BRIGIDI P.
Published: May 2007

Diazoles have attracted considerable attention for a long time owing to their potentially interesting chemical, biochemical, and medicinal properties. We have reported the synthesis and in vitro antibacterial activity of a new series of (N‐substituted)‐3‐methyl‐4‐diazo‐5‐pyrazolecarboxamides 1a‐n along with their quantitative structureactivity study. There was a trend towards a better Gram‐negative activity with decreasing molecular refraction values of the substituents on the carboxamidic moiety and a better Gram‐positive activity with increasing values of IR carbonyl shift. The compounds which displayed the broadest antibacterial spectrum were 3‐methyl‐4‐diazo‐5‐pyrazolecarboxamides substituted with 2‐pyridinyl and 3‐isoxazolyl moieties, making evident the structural requirement of a heterocyclic substituent with aminic function located in the ortho position with respect to heteroatom(s). The introduction of new substituents with different lipophilic properties in place of the C3‐methyl group such as cyano, methoxy, ethoxy, benzyloxy substituents have been examined followed by application of these materials to the cosmetic formulations. An emulsion utilizing the 2‐pyridinyl compound at 0.2% and 0.4% has been prepared, and their specific antimicrobial activity has been evaluated. Preliminary antimicrobial challenge studies indicated the excellent preservative activity of this compound in cosmetic formulations.
Esters of 1,3,3,‐trimethyl‐2‐oxabicyclo [2.2.2]octan‐6‐ols: synthesis, odour evaluation and in vitro preliminary toxicity assays
Authors: MARIANI E. , NEUHOFF C. , BARGAGNA A. , LONGOBARDI M. , FERRO M. , GELARDI A.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

The synthesis of a series of alkyl and arylesters of 1,3,3,‐trimethyl‐2‐oxabicyclo[2.2.2]octan‐6‐ols (2‐cineolylols) is described. All cineole esters obtained were tested for their olfactive character; the esters derived from aryl acyl chlorides were odourless, while aliphatic esters showed interesting multipurpose aromas. Some of these compounds exhibited fruity, woody, green, pine oil and violet‐like notes and some showed aromas interesting for foodstuffs. In vitro toxicity tests were carried out on the cyclopropyl ester of 2‐cineolylols, the most promising of these compounds as a potential perfume ingredient. In this study, cultured mouse fibroblast L‐929 and human keratinocyte NCTC 2544 cell lines were used. The results obtained with the evaluation of three different physiological end points showed that the tested compound possess much lower cytotoxicity than sodium dodecylsulphate (SDS) used as positive control
Inhibition of human neutrophil elastase by wheat ceramides
Authors: BIZOT‐FOULON V. , GODEAU G. , GUESSOUS F. , LATI E. , ROUSSET G. , ROCH‐ARVEILLIER M. , HORNEBECK W.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Ceramides, composed of sphingosineN‐acyl linked to fatty acids have become widely used in cosmetology. They play several physiological roles in the regulation of skin barrier function. Human neutrophil elastase (HNE) can be inhibited by long‐chain fatty acids and their derivatives; it was therefore postulated that plant ceramides could be inhibitors of HNE. Ceramides were extracted from wheat, isolated and characterized. The main fatty acids were 16:0, 18:1, 18:2 and the sphingoid moiety was phytosphingosine. Concentrations necessary to reach 50% inhibition of HNE were, respectively, 33 and 41 μg ml‐1for non‐glycosyl ceramides (CER) and glycosyl ceramides (gly‐CER) when using a synthetic specific substrate. Similar extents of inhibition were obtained using a physiological substrate, insoluble elastin.Ex vivostudies showed that CER protected human skin elastic fibres against HNE degradation. Ceramides, being natural non‐toxic substances, besides their role in cosmetics, could be of pharmacological interest in dermal inflammatory disorders.
Percutaneous absorption of parabens from cosmetic formulations
Authors: POZZO A. DAL , PASTORI N.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Absorption through human skin of a series of six p‐hydroxy‐benzoates (parabens) was studied in vitro. A diffusion chamber was used, where the receiving phase was a physiological solution of albumin. Maximum fluxes and permeability constants of the parabens were measured from different vehicles representing hydrophilic and lipophilic phases, and from different types of common commercial cosmetic emulsions, each containing a known quantity of a single member of the series. Significant skin absorption was observed, depending upon the partition coefficient (log P octanol/water) of the permeant, composition and time of storage of the emulsions. Fluxes from all types of emulsions were higher for methyl paraben and decreased with the increasing lipophilic character of the preservative. Comparatively, fluxes from oil/water emulsions were higher than from water/oil emulsions. Moreover, a clear dependence of preservatives’percutaneous absorption on the time of storage was observed, the fluxes becoming constant after about three months after the time of preparation. The relationship between preservative activity and percutaneous absorption is discussed.
Collaborative development of a sun protection factor test method: a proposed European Standard. COLIPA Task Force ‘Sun Protection Measurement’, Europe
Authors: FERGUSON J. , BROWN M. , ALERT D. , BIELFELDT S. , BROWN J. , CHARDON A. , HOURSEAU C. , MAZILIER C. , CUTHBERT J. , D'ARCY‐BURT K. , JOLLEY J. , MURDOCH M. , FINKEL P. , MASSON P. , MEROT F. , MACLENNAN A. , PORET J. , SILADGI S.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Standardization of the method to determine sun protection factors (SPF) is fundamental to uniform labelling of SPF values on sun products. The COLIPA Task Force ‘Sun Protection Measurement’(SPM), including representatives of major European sun‐product manufacturers and contract testing laboratories, was established in 1990 to define methods for sun products testing. The process involved in developing the COLlPA SPF Test Method started with a critical appraisal of previously existing methods, and identification of areas for improvement. Experiments were performed by the participating laboratories to establish the new recommended test protocol which was then confirmed in two multicentred ring tests. Improvements to test methodology included the number and selection of volunteers and skin types, the application of the product, the definition of W output from solar simulators, and the method for assessing erythemal response (MED) including an option to use colorimetry to define objectively the ‘erythemal threshold’ of skin and to predetermine MED prior to exposure. Four cosmetic formulations and neutral density physical filters (SPF from 4 to 20) were tested in two ring tests. Results showed that variations in SPF of the cosmetic products were, on average, directly proportional to SPF value. An excellent correlation was found between visual and colorimetric SPF assessments (r = 0.99). An acceptable range of values for low and high SPF standard products was also established. The COLIPA SPF test method is now fully defined and supported by experimental data. Its use will harmonize SPF testing throughout Europe and help in the quest for global harmonization in testing sun products.
Novel glyceride gels II. Viscosity characteristics
Authors: GAUTHIER P. , AIACHE S. , AIACHE J.M.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

A gelling process for glycerides (synthetic or natural) by a cellulose derivative has been developed to obtain transparent oleogels of different consistencies. The present work examines the rheological behaviour of these oleogels. The study was carried out with a Trombomat Viscosity Follower. This measurement system allowed the determination of the gelling time and viscosity changes as a function of temperature.
W/O emulsions: solvent phase separation for pH determination
Authors: BUNGARD A. , HAMEYER P. , METZELAARS J.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

The aim of this investigation was to find a measure for the phase separation by substances capable of rapidly demulsifying emulsions, which is necessary for the correct determination of the pH in cosmetic W/O emulsions. Results are reported for pH determination in the separated water phase of W/O emulsions containing metal soaps, micropigments and thermally unstable active agents. Of the substances investigated – solvents of different polarity and electrolytes – the best were mixtures of the polar butanol, which has a surfactant‐like molecular structure and limited oil and water solubility, and the low polar trichloromethane which in particular has strong fat‐ and wax‐dissolving properties. The combination achieved within 10 to 20 min at room temperature complete phase separations. Stable preparations, based on a polymer emulsifier (cetyl dimethicone copolyol), were demulsified as well as metal soap stabilized creams which characteristically contain a high amount of stabilizing waxes. The so‐called solvent phase separation method was confirmed by using model preparations of known pH. During the investigation of model emulsions matching those used in practice, it was found, for example, that magnesium and aluminium stearate as well as various types of micronized zinc oxide which are dissolved or dispersed in the oil phase can shift the pH of the aqueous phase during manufacture from an initial acidic value through neutral to pH 8–10. Time‐related and temperature‐related changes in pH in formulations containing thermally unstable additives such as dihydroxyacetone or urea can be easily monitored.
Effect of Vichy water on catalase activity in the stratum corneum
Authors: BRUNEAU F. , BERNARD D. , RAGUENEAU N. , MONTASTIER C.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Vichy spa water is essentially known for its therapeutic action on liver and bile duct functions. Its mechanism of action may be partially explained by the activation of certain digestive enzymes. A literature survey showed that Vichy water has also been used for local application in the treatment of certain dermatoses. Based on these data, the effects of Vichy spa water on the skin were studied using cutaneous enzymatic systems. The first studies were carried out on catalase, an oxidoreductase. The results showed a statistically significant increase (p<0.05) in the activity of the enzyme in the presence of Vichy spa water both in vitro and in vivo. Considering the involvement of catalase in skin defence against oxygen‐derived free radicals generated, its increased activity may explain the beneficial role of Vichy water observed in various dermatoses.
FTIR investigation of the damage produced on human hair by weathering and bleaching processes: implementation of different sampling techniques and data processing
Authors: SIGNORI V. , LEWIS D. M.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

Untreated and bleached hair samples were analysed by FTIR spectroscopy. Cysteic acid and cysteine‐S‐thiosulphate were analysed by different data manipulations and various sampling techniques. Single‐fibre analysis was achieved using the IR‐microscope attachment to the FTIR instrument (transmission mode). An ATR diamond crystal was also used for both single fibres and tresses; this sampling technique was compared to a contact sample ATR cell based on a ZnSe crystal. The microscope was found to be very useful for the analysis of small portions of hair fibres; the effect of weathering along the length of the fibres and the extent of variability among the single fibres was assessed by this technique. The results clearly show a trend in the cysteic acid content increasing from the mid‐point to the tip; it was found that hair samples are very heterogeneous. A standard variation of up to 11% is reported for the mean value of the intensity of absorption of cysteic acid in untreated fibres belonging to the same tress sample. The value of the variation decreases when the tress is bleached – the longer the bleaching process the lower the value of the standard variation (4.5% for hair fibres bleached for 60 min using hydrogen peroxide). The contact sample ATR cell gave poor reproducibility as only poor sample‐crystal contact was achieved and the level of noise recorded was too high to allow accurate detection. However the ATR diamond crystal was found to give sensitive and reproducible spectra since much higher levels of transmittance were achieved (better sample‐crystal contact); this technique allowed measurements of groups of seven to nine hair fibres at once, but did not provide reproducible spectra of single fibres. Different data manipulations have been assessed; these include derivatization and calculation of peak heights and areas (ratioed by the intensity of absorption of the peaks chosen as internal standards to the amide III 1232–1242 cm−1 and CH2 stretching 1451 cm−1), normalization, averaging spectra and spectral subtraction.
Influence des ions sur le pouvoir hydratant de I'urée: étude sur peau de porc ex vivo
Authors: DUPUIS L. , MANFAIT M. , SERPIER H. , CAPON F. , KALIS B.
Published: May 2007

Synopsis

This study deals with the influence of ions (NaCl and MgSO4) in a W/O emulsion containing 10% urea. Moisturization kinetics are assessed by corneometry on pig skin ex vivo. The formula's influence on urea penetration is measured by infrared spectrometry with an ATR device and the stripping method. Corneometry and spectroscopy were chosen to record simultaneously the hydratation levels and urea localization into superficial cell layers. Urea crystallization after evaporation of emulsions and aqueous solutions is described. Results show that urea does not hydrate nor penetrate when applied to the skin through an aqueous gel. In a W/O emulsion, sodium chloride increases the ability of urea to moisturize without improving penetration. In vitro urea crystallization is disturbed by sodium chloride or magnesium sulphate for solutions and emulsions. This stabilization by ions is correlated with good moisturization values. The stabilization of urea in the solute state provided by ions increases its water epidermal binding capacity without enhancing penetration.
Skin smoothing effects of Dead Sea minerals: comparative profilometric evaluation of skin surface
Authors: MA'OR Z. , YEHUDA S. , VOSS W.
Published: May 2007

The skin smoothing effects of three different liquid gels were compared on 20 mature women. Treatment applications were performed twice a day over a period of 4 weeks, and the skin roughness parameter (Rz) of all test participants was determined at the beginning and at the end of the study using a computer‐aided laser profilometry, in accordance with DIN 4768 ff. At the end of the application period, the liquid gel with 1% of a Dead Sea mineral solution had an average skin roughness parameter reduction of 40.7%. The liquid gel without mineral additives showed an average reduction in skin roughness of 27.8%. The control gel without anti‐wrinkle agents or the additives showed an average reduction of only 10.4%. Resume. On a teste l'influence d'une formulation aux liposomes d'un melange ceramide/phospholipide sur la fonction protectrice de la peau de personnes en test atopique, avec une peau saine, et apres extraction lipidique. On a utilise la perte d'eau transepidermique et l'hydratation de l'epiderme comme parametres d'evaluation de l'influence du traitement sur la fonction protectrice. On a en outre effectue apres application un test de la fonction protectrice avec un ester d'acide nicotinique. On a constate des effets stabilisateurs de la fonction protectrice apres application seulement sur peau atopique et apres extraction lipidique mais pas sur peau saine. Les resultats nous conduisent a esperer des effets positifs uniquement en cas d'alteration de la fonction protectrice.