bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Water Wetting and Retention of Cotton Assemblies as Affected by Alkaline and Bleaching Treatments
Authors: Hsieh Y.-L. , Thompson J. , Miller A.
Published: March 2008

This paper reports quantitative measurements of improved water wettability and retention of scoured and bleached cotton fabrics. The water wetting contact angles (CAs) of raw cotton fibers and grey plain weave and satin weave cotton fabrics are 95.3° (±19.4°), 93.9° (±3.3°), and 93.2° (±4.7°), respectively. Improved water wet ting properties with alkaline scouring (3% NaOH ) depend on the forms of the cotton assemblies that are scoured and the duration of the scouring. Water wetting CAs of single fibers (CA = 0.3° ± 0.5 ° ) improve to a much greater extent when scoured (2 hour) in loose fiber form than in the yarn (40.8° ± 7.3°) or fabric (41.3° ± 5.4° ) form. Water wetting contact angles of single fibers taken from the scoured plain weave fabrics are identical to those of fabrics and yarns scoured under the same conditions. Scouring improves water wettability and water retention even when the pore volume in the fabric is reduced. Bleaching, on the other hand, improves surface wettability and water retention without affecting the fabric pore structure. The water retention properties of these scoured and bleached cotton fabrics are directly related to their wetting properties in water, or inversely related to their water wetting CAs. These quantitative methods are highly sensitive to differentiating the effectiveness of scouring and bleaching processes on cotton assemblies.
Photofading Behavior of Triazinylaminostilbene Fluorescent Brightener in Cellophane
Authors: Ikuno H. , Okuni M. , Komaki M. , Nakajima T.
Published: March 2008

The photofading behavior of CI Fluorescent Brightener 85 (FB 85) is investigated on cellophane. The initial photofading reaction of FB 85 on cellophane is trans-cis isomerization, and the subsequent reaction is assumed to be photodegradation. The initial photofading rate of FB 85 on cellophane is accelerated by brightener concen tration and atmospheric moisture, whereas the addition of sodium carbonate to the dyebath retards photofading. A kinetic analysis suggests the participation of a bimo lecular reaction in addition to photoisomerization through a monomolecular reaction. The contribution of the bimolecular reaction increases as the moisture content in creases. Added salt reduces the contribution of the bimolecular reaction in photofading of FB 85 on cellophane.
Kinetics of Peroxidase Catalyzed Decoloration of Orange II. with Hydrogen Peroxide
Authors: Morita Miyuki , Ito Rie , Kamidate Tamio , Watanabe Hiroto
Published: March 2008

The decoloration rate of Orange II is measured at 20°C and pH 9.0 in the presence of hydrogen peroxide and such peroxidases (POD) as horseradish POD (HRP), POD from soybean (SPO), and arthromyces ramosus POD (ARP). The decoloration rate of Orange II is expressed as pseudo-first order reaction kinetics for all PODS used. The rate constants increase in the following order. SPO < HRP < ARP. Rate constant values for HRP and ARP are much greater than that for percarbonate. The differences in rate constants between PODS can be explained in terms of the different reactivities of POD-interme diates for Orange II.
A Transmission Electron Microscope Study of Covalently Bound Fatty Acids in the Cell Membranes of Wool Fibers
Authors: Negri Andrew , Rankin Douglas A. , Nelson Wayne G. , Rivett Donald E.
Published: March 2008

A transmission electron microscope study has shown that an unstained layer, thought to contain covalently bound fatty acids, completely surrounds the cuticle cells of wool fibers. Alcoholic alkali and chlorine treatments, which both release covalently bound fatty acids, result in the disappearance of the unstained layer. This layer is thought to be an integral part of the cuticle cell membrane. Similar unstained layers between cortical cells are different from the unstained cuticle membrane, because they remain unmodified by alcoholic alkali treatments.
Enhancement of Coolness to the Touch by Hygroscopic Fibers
Authors: Schneider A.M. , Holcombe B.V. , Stephens L.G.
Published: March 2008

Coolness to the touch of smooth, lightweight fabrics is enhanced by fibers with high moisture sorption capacity such as wool. Subjective trials to assess the coolness of fabrics in wool, cotton, polyester, and a wool/polyester blend are done under controlled environmental conditions. In paired comparisons, subjects choose the fabrics with higher moisture sorption capacity more frequently as cooler as the difference in the capacity of the two fabrics increases. Laboratory measurements show a correspondingly greater temperature drop at the skin surface during contact with the more sorptive fiber. This enhanced cooling is associated with the desorption of moisture that takes place as fabrics move toward the skin through a changing humidity environment.
An On-Line Fabric Classification Technique Using a Wavelet-Based Neural Network Approach
Authors: Barrett G.R. , Clapp T.G. , Titus K.J.
Published: March 2008

A sewing system is described that classifies both the fabric type and number of plies encountered during apparel assembly, so that on-line adaptation of the sewing param eters to improve stitch formation and seam quality can occur. Needle penetration forces and presser foot forces are captured and decomposed using the wavelet transform. Salient features extracted using the wavelet transform of the needle penetration forces form the input to an artificial neural network, which classifies the fabric type and number of plies being sewn. A functionally linked wavelet neural network is trained on a moderate number of stitches for five fabrics, and can correctly classify both fabric type and number of plies being sewn with 97.6% accuracy. This network is intended for use with dedicated DSP hardware to classify fabrics on-line and control sewing parameters in real time.
Human Perception and Fabric Streakiness
Authors: Davis Hawthorne , McGregor Ralph , Pastore Christopher , Timble Neelesh
Published: March 2008

Streakiness and barré have been problems for the textile industry for years. It is interesting that streakiness can be a problem in fabrics when it is barely detectable by instruments. This paper uses theory developed to explain the way humans see, to understand the origin of the fabric streakiness problem as a perception phenomenon. It then uses this understanding to suggest and evaluate options for improving, (i.e., reducing) the appearance of streakiness in real fabrics. Testing of the options suggested is done on simulated fabrics created under precisely controlled conditions on a high- quality color printer.
Fractal Analysis and Aesthetic Evaluation of Geometrically Overlapping Patterns
Authors: Mori Toshio , Endou Yoshimichi , Nakayama Akira
Published: March 2008

An extended fractal dimension is introduced and applied to several figures whose fractal images are similar in a statistical sense. The box-counting method by computer- aided image analysis is adapted to measure the extended fractal dimension of patterns. When applied to an ideal fractal figure, the value measured with this method closely agrees with the theoretical value. Image information such as the number of voids and void sizes in twenty-nine different kinds of patterns is obtained by image processing. All these patterns are used as sample patterns for sensory evaluation and fractal analysis. A good correlation exists between the fractal dimension and the sensory evaluation value for beauty and complexity of patterns.
Thermoanalytical and FT-IR Characteristics of Fabrics Finished with BTCA/Chloroacetates
Authors: Trask-Morrell Brenda J. , Morris Nancy M. , Andrews B.A. Kottes
Published: March 2008

Cotton durable press (DP) finishes of 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) catalyzed with sodium dichloroacetate, sodium monochloroacetate, or sodium acetate (SDCA, SMCA, or SA) were prepared at four acid / catalyst ratios, and catalyst controls were also treated. Thermal analyses were performed using differential scanning calo rimetric (DSC) and thermogravimetric (TG) techniques. Overlaid DSC or TG ther mograms indicated few visible instances of progressive changes produced with varying ratios of BTCA/catalyst. Differences in finishes were assessed when means and standard errors were tabulated. Characterization of this series involved either seventeen or five individual parameters, depending on whether the finish produced two or one weight loss region(s). Some thermal parameters, when plotted versus catalyst ratios of 1/ 0.5, 1/1, 1/1.5, and 1/2, produced a peak (or a minimum) instead of steadily in creasing, decreasing, or remaining level, as found in earlier studies. Finish identification of BTCA/SDCA was rapid; recognition of BTCA/SMCA or BTCA/SA was more compli cated. All BTcA/acetate catalyzed finishes were easily distinguished from BTCA/sodium hypophosphite finished fabrics or 1,3-dimethylol-4,5-dihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) finishes. Most distinguishing thermal features are related to catalyst. Part II discusses TGA/FT-IR studies of BTCA/acetate catalyzed samples.
Two-Dimensional Simulation of Air Flow in the Transfer Channel of Open-End Rotor Spinning Machines
Authors: Kong L.X. , Platfoot R.A.
Published: March 2008

A two-dimensional computational fluid dynamics model is developed to simulate the flow patterns inside the transportation zone of a rotor spinning machine and analyze their effects on yarn properties. The strength and area of recirculation at the inlet of the transfer channel caused by the geometric variation and rotating opening roller are significantly related to fluid flow, and consequently to rotor spun yarn prop erties. Any variation of geometric dimensions of the transfer channel or opening roller velocity affects the air flow pattern, which then alters the configuration of fibers flowing inside the channel. A larger inlet at the transfer channel will lead to a decrease in the inlet mean velocity and will strengthen the primary recirculation zone, which is a potential source for fiber curving and buckling. The ratio of the circumferential velocity of opening roller to mean air flowing velocity is identified as a critical parameter to classify differences in flow patterns. If the ratio is a constant, the flow pattern will not explicitly change, but the drag force will increase with the increase in Reynolds number. Additionally, if the ratio is either too high or too low, the flow is not suitable for maintaining high quality in spun yarns due to the occurrence of strong recirculation at the outer cover side or opening roller side.
Typical Fracture Appearance of Broken Wool Fibers After Simulated Sunlight Irradiation
Authors: Zimmermann Monika , Hocker Hartwig
Published: March 2008

After determining the wet bundle strength of sunlight irradiated wool, the broken fiber ends are evaluated optically by electron microscope. Three different modes of fiber fracture are identified. Due to the breakage morphology, we assume that the histological wool components are damaged to a different extent as a function of ir radiation time. Thus, the frequency of the breakage modes may serve to indicate the stage of fiber damage. We suppose that the initial step of photodamage is the pho tooxidation of the internal lipids, because they are obviously modified after a very short time of irradiation, while the keratin components are visibly intact. After long irradiation periods, the fibrous structure of the keratin fibrils is no longer recognizable.
Influence of Spinning Parameters on Core Yarn Sheath Slippage and Other Properties
Authors: Menghe Miao  , How Yan-Lai , Ho Sau-Yee
Published: March 2008

Filament-core yams are produced to take advantage of both filament and staple . fiber properties. They offer good strength and uniformity without sacrificing the staple fiber yarn-like surface characteristics. However, a disadvantage of the core yarns is that the staple fiber sheath may slip along the filament when being pulled to pass over or when being rubbed by machine parts during further mechanical processes. In this investigation, two methods of testing core yarn sheath slipping resistance are employed to evaluate this core yarn property, using a universal fabric abrasion tester and a yarn abrasion tester. Filament tension applied during both ringframe and DREF-2 core yarn production has a highly significant effect on the sheath slipping resistance; a relatively high tension is advantageous for ring spinning, but otherwise for DREF-2 spinning. Twisting the filament before core yarn production can also alter the sheath slipping resistance of core yarn produced by either of the two spinning systems, its effect de pending on the direction and level of twist applied to the filament.
Thermoanalytical and FT-IR Characteristics of Fabrics Finished with BTCA / Chloroacetates
Authors: Morris Nancy M. , Trask-Morrell Brenda J. , Andrews B.A. Kottes
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabrics esterified with polycarboxylic acids possess excellent smooth drying properties and have good strength retention. The best results have been obtained with catalysts of inorganic phosphorus acids, especially sodium hypophosphite monohydrate (SHP). However, because SHP is fairly expensive and there is some concern that phos phorus from finishing plants would contribute to the pollution of rivers and streams, other catalyst systems are under investigation as substitutes. This paper reports on the characterization of sodium salts of chloroacetic acids as catalysts for esterification crosslink finishing of cotton with 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA). In this part of the study, we report on FT-IR identification of the volatile products formed on thermal decomposition of fabrics treated with BTCA and chloroacetate catalysts. HCl does not appear to be released at any temperature, and chloroform, which is a decom position product when trichloroacetate is used as the catalyst, is formed only above curing temperatures.
Yam and Knitting Parameters Affecting Fly During Weft Knitting of Staple Yarns
Authors: Lawrence C.A. , Mohamed S.A.
Published: March 2008

A series of experiments help determine the effect of different yarn and knitting parameters on fly formation during the knitting of staple yarns. The mean fiber length and the level of yarn twist are principal factors in reducing the tendency of staple yarns to shed fly. Other important factors are yam linear density, yarn moisture content, and package conicity. A high percentage of cotton in a cotton / polyester blend, high input tension, high knitting speed, and increased tightness factor all significantly in crease the amount of fly generated.
Filling Velocity Changes at Tip Transfer on Rapier Looms: A Simple Analysis
Authors: Dawson R.M. , Georgiadis N. , Jelveh-Moghaddam A. , Songelaeli K.W.
Published: March 2008

In rapier filling insertion by tip-transfer between two half-width rapiers, the filling clamps may be operated either positively or negatively at transfer. The trajectories of the transfer point on the giver and the clamping point on the taker rapier are observed for both cases. With positively operated clamps, these trajectories are tangential, con firming that a filling velocity change at transfer can be avoided. Negatively operating systems entail an overlap of the trajectories, and thus a filling velocity change at transfer. Observed filling deflections during transfer indicate the sequence of operations entailed in negative transfer. A simple model of these operations gives an estimate of the velocity change at transfer. For the two looms observed, this velocity change has a lower bound of about 20% of the maximum filling velocity.
Draw-Texturing of Microfiber Polyester Yarn
Authors: Pal S.K. , Gandhi R.S. , Kothari V.K.
Published: March 2008

Three POY yarns of 80/100, 80/48, and 80/34 denier/filament are textured with four variables at five levels. The Box-Hunter statistical experimental design is used to produce thirty-six samples in each case. The effects of texturing variables—draw ratio, disc surface speed to yam speed ratio ( D/Y ratio), first heater temperature and heater contact time on tensile properties, crimp characteristics, dye uptake, broken filaments, and tight spots—are studied. First heater temperature and draw ratio have a significant influence oh tensile, crimp, and dyeing properties. With increased D/Y ratio, broken filaments decrease but tight spots increase. A proper selection of the D/Y ratio gives acceptable levels of broken filaments and tight spots.
Fourier Transform Infrared Photoacoustic Spectroscopy of Surface-Treated Wool
Authors: Carter E.A. , Fredericks P.M. , Church J.S.
Published: March 2008

Infrared photoacoustic spectroscopy (PAS) is a useful technique for examining sur face-treated wool samples. Sample preparation is simple, and reproducible spectra of adequate signal-to-noise ratio are obtained in a few minutes. The ability of PAS to vary the penetration depth by varying the optical path difference velocity is used to obtain spectra of the near surface region of the samples. These spectra are compared with those taken with a greater penetration depth, which therefore represent more of the bulk wool sample. Samples are chlorinated and chlorinated/neutralized wool from a shrinkproofing process, and wool treated with a proprietary fluoropolymer.
Sizing and Desizing Polyester / Cotton Blend Yarns Using Liquid Carbon Dioxide
Authors: Bowman Lawrence E. , Caley Charles G. , Hallen Richard T. , Fulton John L.
Published: March 2008

We report a preliminary investigation of nonaqueous sizing and desizing where liquid carbon dioxide is the solvent. New size formulations are required for this process because traditional size materials are not directly soluble in liquid carbon dioxide. Candidate size compounds are first tested for solubility, and those found to be soluble are then applied to polyester/cotton yarns using two methods: immersing the yarn in a size-saturated carbon dioxide solution and drawing the yarn through a hot melt of the compound. The tensile strength and elastic modulus of the sized yarns are deter mined. Complete removal of the size compounds from the treated yarns by means of liquid carbon dioxide extraction is demonstrated.
Crosslinking of Cotton with DMDMDHEU in the Presence of Sodium Chloride
Authors: Chang Hung-Lin , Chen Cheng-Chi
Published: March 2008

A crosslinking treatment is reported for cotton fabric with dimethyldimethyloldihy droxyethyleneurea ( DMDMDHEU ) in the presence of various amounts of sodium chlo ride using a pad-dry-cure process. The crosslinked fabric and a control are studied for various physicochemical properties using standard methods. The distribution of cross links per anhydroglucose unit and the length of crosslinks are calculated from form aldehyde and nitrogen contents. Both number and length of crosslinks decrease with increased NaCl concentration in the pad bath. Self-condensation of resin and surface distribution ( on the treated fabrics ) are evident for fabric samples treated in the presence of sodium chloride. The relationships between various treated fabric properties are also considered.
Using Video Capture and Image Analysis to Quantify Apparel Fit
Authors: Kohn Inez L. , Ashdown Susan P.
Published: March 2008

The apparel industry relies on subjective traditional fit measures of expert analysis and subject responses and objective body dimension measurements to quantify the fit and size of garment prototypes. In this study, an objective method for the analysis of fit is validated by comparison with traditional measures. Assessment of apparel fit for all measures focuses on the effect of postural differences and garment fit for mature women between the ages of 55 and 65. The objective method uses slashed garments and image analysis tools. Results of the analysis of high contrast video-captured images of subjects dressed in test jackets are compared to traditional fit measures. Expert analysts and the image analysis method developed for this study are both capable of defining the complex interactions of the garment/body interface.
Effect of Fabric Mechanical Properties on Drape
Authors: Hu Jinlian , Chan Yuk-Fung
Published: March 2008

We investigate the relationship between the fabric drape coefficient from the Cusick drapemeter and mechanical properties tested on the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F) for woven fabrics. This is the first attempt at determining a compre hensive relationship between the fabric drape coefficient and mechanical properties. Drape coefficient ( DC) is the dependent variable. Sixteen mechanical properties tested on the KES-F system and their transformed forms are the independent variables. Four regression models are proposed: the multiple linear regression of the DC with KES-F original data, Niwa's model, logarithms for KES-F data, and logarithms for both the DC and KES-F data. Except for an initial run with Niwa's model, the mechanical properties correlated to drape coefficient are reduced to three or four by screening out intercor related parameters using stepwise regression. The regression results are analyzed in terms of correlation coefficients, residuals. and T values. The version with logarithms for mechanical properties and drape coefficient seems to be more accurate. We know that bending and shear properties are close related to drape coefficient. and this analysis shows that two other parameters—mean deviation of friction coefficient and tensile linearity—are also highly correlated with drape coefficient and may be independent.
Carboxymethylated Cotton Fabric for Pesticide-Protective Work Clothing
Authors: Rácz Ilona , Borsa Judit , Obendorf S. Kay
Published: March 2008

Cotton shirt weight print cloth is carboxymethylated using a pad-roll technology. Chemical accessibility is characterized by iodine sorption capacity and water retention; the values obtained for the modified cotton are significantly higher than those of the untreated and mercerized control samples. Layered clothing systems are made from combinations of treated and control fabrics, and pesticide penetration and retention are studied using radiolabeled methyl parathion. When the outer layer of the clothing sys tem is carboxymethylated, 30 to 45% more pesticide is trapped by that layer than when the outer layer is the untreated or the mercerized control fabric. Carboxymethylation reduces residual pesticide on the cotton fabric after laundering to less than half that observed for the control fabrics. Contamination of other clothes by redeposition during laundering is similar for the treated and untreated fabrics. The results of this study indicate that carboxymethylated fabrics may offer some protective advantages in re usable work clothing for pesticide handlers.
Diameter and Strength Distributions of Merino Wool in Early Stage Processing
Authors: Lijing Wang  , Xungai Wang
Published: March 2008

In this paper, we investigate fiber diameter and strength distributions in early-stage processing. We have processed two lots of merino wool from scouring to top finishing. Fiber samples collected at each processing stage are measured for diameter on an optical fiber diameter analyzer, and fiber strength is measured on a modified WIRA single fiber strength tester. Fiber diameter conforms to a lognormal distribution, and this conformity persists throughout early-stage processing. Single fiber strength also conforms to a lognormal distribution in general, but this conformity may be distorted by fiber damage in processes such as carding. Furthermore, we have established a formula to estimate the coefficient of variation of single fiber strength once we know the coefficient of variation of the fiber diameter.
Determining Gravimetric Bark Content in Cotton with Machine Vision
Authors: Lieberman Michael A. , Bragg Charles K. , Brennan Sean N.
Published: March 2008

A method is needed to accurately and rapidly determine the gravimetric bark content of a cotton sample. Gravimetric bark content represents the percent bark mass through out the volume of a cotton sample. The current method for measuring gravimetric bark content is a labor intensive, lengthy process. Machine vision, on the other hand, is a fast, inexpensive method to measure this bulk cotton property. Ten acquired images of surfaces throughout each sample are used. Classical digital image processing tech niques isolate foreign matter regions in monochrome video images. Geometric prop erties (area and perimeter) are used to identify which foreign matter is bark and to predict the gravimetric bark content in forty-eight cotton samples with varying bark and total foreign matter content. We suggest a model with six features and intercept, which has an estimated error of 0.46% bark mass.
Fabric Classification Based on Recognition Using a Neural Network and Dimensionality Reduction
Authors: Fan Kuo-Chin , Wang Yuan-Kai , Chang Bih-Lan , Wang Tzu-Po , Jou Chi-Hsiung , Kao I-Feng
Published: March 2008

Fabric classification plays an important role in the textile industry. In this paper, two fabric classification methods, the neural network and dimensionality reduction, are proposed to automatically classify fabrics based on measured hand properties. The methods are independent and reinforce each other. The first method adopts a neural network to recognize the category of an unknown fabric. In the second method, a dimensionality reduction technique is applied to reduce the dimensionality of the mea sured properties of input fabrics from sixteen dimensions to two. The reduced features are then plotted in a two-dimensional coordinate system to visualize and verify the classification results of the neural network. In experiments conducted to verify the validity of our proposed approach, fabric data are expressed in the form of hand prop erties extracted from the KES-FB system (Kawabata's evaluation system for fabrics). These experiments confirm the feasibility and efficiency of our approach with a wide variety of fabrics.
Influence of Direct and Reactive Dyes on the Enzymatic Hydrolysis of Cotton
Authors: Buschle-Diller G. , Traore M.K.
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabric is subjected to enzymatic hydrolysis with cellulases before and after dyeing. The effects of direct dyes of increasing molecular size on the rate of the en zymatic hydrolysis reaction are investigated, along with mono- and bifunctional reac tive dyes with different functional groups. All reactive dyes studied and especially bifunctional reactive dyes, have a decelerating influence on enzymatic attack. The effect of the direct dyes depends strongly on the enzymatic treatment duration. Moisture regain values of enzyme treated fabric suggest a transient state of somewhat increased disorder of the cellulose structure at a specific stage of hydrolysis, which is alleviated by longer incubation times. At this stage, direct dyed fabric shows a hydrolysis rate approximately equal to or slightly higher than undyed fabric.
Enzymatic Scouring to Improve Cotton Fabric Wettability
Authors: Hartzell M. Michelle , Hsieh You-Lo
Published: March 2008

The ability of pectinase, cellulase, protease, and lipase enzymes to improve the surface wetting properties of raw and pre-treated cotton fabrics is studied. When applied alone to raw cotton fabrics, pectinase, lipase, and protease treatments provide very little improvement in water wetting and retention properties. A combination of pectinase and cellulase significantly improves water wetting and retention properties similar to those of commercially scoured cotton fabrics. A water pretreatment at 100°C enhances the effectiveness of subsequent pectinase and cellulase reactions. Pectinase following the 100°C water pretreatment produces improved wettability with the least weight loss and dimensional change. Cellulase treatments on scoured fabrics further enhance water wettability and whiteness, but with significant reductions in fabric weight, thickness, and strength.
Analysis and Simulation of Nonwoven Irregularity and Nonhomogeneity
Authors: Cherkassky Arkady
Published: March 2008

This paper presents a study of nonwoven fabric irregularity. The method of two- dimensional random fields has been used to investigate longitudinal, transverse, and area irregularities, and micro- and macro-scale irregularities are determined. The effects of inherent random irregularity and transverse nonhomogeneity are described, and a method for separating these effects is suggested. Computer-aided simulation is used to verify and illustrate algorithms for the nonhomogeneous and irregularity analysis as applied to nonwovens. The influence of an average cross-profile of random field irreg ularities on the coefficient of variation in the transverse direction is determined. A macro-scale irregularity analysis of chemically bonded nonwoven fabrics yields esti mates of the longitudinal, transverse, and area irregularities, the value of the "degree of influence," estimates of two-dimensional correlation functions, and a set of corre lation functions in the longitudinal direction.
Filament Pre-tension in Core Yarn Friction Spinning
Authors: Merati Ali Akbar , Konda Fujio , Okamura Masaaki , Marui Etsuo
Published: March 2008

Core yams are known to improve cotton yam properties. In this research, core yarns are spun by introducing filaments under tension into the yarn-forming zone of an ex perimental friction spinning apparatus. A 30-denier (3.3 tex) nylon monofilament and a black 75-denier (35f) nylon multifilament make up the core, and cotton fibers are used as the sheath. The effect of filament pre-tension on the structural parameters and mechanical properties of the core yarn is examined, and core yarn properties are com pared with those of equivalent 100% cotton yarns. The photographic and fiber tracing methods are used to consider the appearance of the yarns and the geometric position of the core in the core yarns. The results show that the appearance of the core yarn is similar to that of regular cotton yarns, with the exception of core yarns produced with 00 gf/fil pre-tension. Core yarn irregularity does not change with filament pre-tension, and it is less than that of cotton yam. Core yam strength significantly increases as filament pre-tension and filament percentage increase, and it is greater than that of cotton yarn. Core yarn elongation is less than that of cotton yarn at a low filament percentage and greater than that of cotton yarn at a high filament percentage.
Viscoelastic Properties of Nylon 6 Fibers and Corresponding Fiber Assemblies
Authors: Seldén Ragnar , Dartman Torbjorn
Published: March 2008

The viscoelastic properties of nylon 6 fibers are studied in terms of stress relaxation and dynamic mechanical analysis. Single fibers are subjected to tensile stress relaxation tests at room temperature in air and water after rapid straining to between 5 and 40%; the duration of these tests is between 0.1 to 105 seconds. Dynamic mechanical tests are done on a Rheometrics dynamic tester at frequencies between 0.1 to 10 Hz and at various static prestrains. Results are compared with those from similar tests in com pression on waddings made of corresponding fibers. In general, correlations are good between fiber properties and wadding properties.
Enzymatic Hydrolysis to Improve Wetting and Absorbency of Polyester Fabrics
Authors: Hsieh You-Lo , Cram Lisa A.
Published: March 2008

The ability of six hydrolyzing enzymes to improve the hydrophilicity of several polyester fabrics is studied. Five of the six lipases improve the water wetting and absorbent properties of regular polyester fabrics more than alkaline hydrolysis under optimal conditions (3 N NaOH at 55°C for 2 hours). Compared to aqueous hydrolysis, the enzyme reactions are highly effective under more moderate conditions, including a relatively low concentration (0.01 g/l), a shorter reaction time (10 minutes), an ambient temperature (25°C), and no buffer. Improved water wettability is accompanied by full strength retention compared to the significantly reduced strength and mass from alkaline hydrolysis. The wetting and absorbent properties of sulfonated polyester and microdenier polyester fabrics are also improved by lipase.
An Alternative Way to Monitor H2O2 Decomposition in Bleaching Solutions
Authors: Stana-Kleinschek Karin , Golcer Mateja , Ribitsch Volker , Dolecek Valter
Published: March 2008

A new method has been developed for monitoring temperature, pressure, pH, and redox potential during peroxide bleaching of cotton fabrics. The time dependence of pressure in the closed reaction system is supposed to reflect H2O2 decomposition. Pro cess conditions are monitored on-line and compared with results obtained by mangan ometric titration. On-line monitoring results correspond very well with those from titration. The results indicate that the process very much depends on the presence of stabilizer and cotton, but it can be described as a first-order reaction in any case.
Finite Element Modeling of the Nonuniform Deformation of Spun-Bonded Nonwovens
Authors: Bais-Singh Smita , Biggers Sherrill B. , Goswami Bhuvenesh C.
Published: March 2008

Deformation of a spunbonded nonwoven fabric specimen is extremely nonuniform during a uniaxial tensile test. Complex stress/strain fields are generated in the specimen due to the effect of the jaws, the nonlinear nature of deformation, and the low shear stiffness of the fabric, causing "necking" to take place in the unrestricted region. A finite element model is presented to model the nonuniform deformation of the fabric. Nonuniform stress/strain fields developing in the fabric during a uniaxial test are mod eled for the first time. Data from representative tests are reported for comparison to the results. obtained with the model. The model correctly predicts the variation of Poisson's ratio with longitudinal strains. Unlike previous studies, correct boundary conditions and force equilibrium conditions are incorporated in the model. The im portant effects of fiber buckling and material nonlinearity are discussed.
Cotton Color Measurements by an Imaging Colorimeter
Authors: Xu B. , Fang C. , Huang R. , Watson M.D.
Published: March 2008

Color grade is one of the major components of the current cotton classing system. This paper presents the application of an imaging colorimeter to color measurements of the USDA standards for U.S. Upland cotton and cotton samples with a wide range of colors. Tests on the reproducibility and spatial uniformity of the color imeter's data are reported, and the results are directly compared with results from other colorimeters and human classers. Methods for creating new color grade dia grams in the CIE L*a*b* system are explained. A new concept suggests using primary and secondary color grades for cotton samples. These two grades can be determined from the L*∼b* and L*∼ a* diagrams created by the imaging color imeter. The secondary grade, using the red-green attribute, can help reduce the uncertainty of color grading when the color measurements are near a boundary between two grades in one color diagram.
Indigo Backstaining During Cellulase Washing
Authors: Cavaco-Paulo Artur , Morgado Jose , Almeida Luis , Kilburn Douglas
Published: March 2008

We have attempted to understand the mechanisms of indigo backstaining during enzyme stone washing by separately analyzing dye staining levels on different cotton surfaces during the process. The high ability of the cellulase enzyme protein to bind to cotton cellulose is the major cause of backstaining. Further studies of commercial cellulases show that the pH of maximum cellulase activity may not be the same pH of maximum of cellulase binding capacity to the substrate, and also that indigo dyes have completely different affinities for cellulase proteins from different fungal origins.
Carding Kenaf for Nonwovens
Authors: Weiying Tao  , Calamari Timothy A. , Crook Legrand
Published: March 2008

Kenaf is a bast fiber that offers the advantage of being biodegradable, renewable, and environmentally safe. Unfortunately, mechanically harvested (raw) kenaf fibers are coarse, brittle, and difficult to process through conventional textile and nonwoven equipment. Kenaf batts can be prepared by an air-laid process, but the batts do not have stable uniform structures. In earlier work, we attempted to card kenaf on a cotton card, since carded batts should provide better structural integrity than air-laid batts. Unfortunately, it was impossible to card raw kenaf fibers on a conventional cotton card, because the raw kenaf was discharged from the card as trash. Carding of treated ( chem ically processed) kenaf was moderately successful, although a fair proportion of kenaf was still lost during the carding process. We modified a conventional cotton card to process kenaf fibers into nonwoven structures by using different wire combinations, carding plates, card speeds, and settings. Kenaf batts (pure or blended with polypro pylene) were carded on this modified machine. Nonwoven mats were made using three methods: through-air thermal bonding, needle punching, and needle punching followed by thermal bonding. Although each of these procedures produced kenaf mats with good strength and uniformity, the combined treatment produced the strongest mats. Details of card modification as well as gathered data and properties of the mats are presented.
A New Method for Evaluating Electrical Resistivity of Textile Assemblies
Authors: Berberi Pellumb G.
Published: March 2008

A new multiple-step method for measuring the electrical resistance of textile assem blies is proposed that takes the compressional properties of the assembly into consid eration. A new parameter is introduced to describe the electrical resistivity of textile materials as the limit resistivity of a compressed fiber assembly. This new definition approaches the measured resistance of the textile assembly as something similar to the volume resistivity of a rigid homogeneous material. Experiments with different kinds of fiber assemblies clearly show that the electrical resistivity so defined is an inherent characteristic reflecting the electrical properties of fiber material and is independent of sample form (fabric, yarn, and fiber).
Dyeing Acetate Fibers with 1,4-Diaminoanthraquinone Using Didodecyldimethylammonium Bromide as the Dye Vehicle
Authors: Kim Ik-Soo , Ishikawa Yusai , Kono Kenji , Takagishi Toru
Published: March 2008

The effects of a double-tailed surfactant, didodecyldimethylammonium bromide (DDDMAB), on disperse dyeing of acetate fibers with 1,4-diaminoanthraquinone (1,4- DAA) are investigated at 60, 70, and 80°C. From dyeing rate curves and dyeing iso therms, DDDMAB makes it possible to reduce the dyeing temperature to 60°C. The evidence for vesicle formation of DDDMAB containing 1,4-DAA is obtained by trans mission electron microscopy and dynamic laser light scattering. In addition, DDDMAB strongly adsorbs on acetate fibers. It is likely that the enhanced dyeing properties in dye/DDDMAB dispersion are due to a concentrated dye layer on the fiber surface formed by the strong interaction of DDDMAB and acetate fibers.
Comfort Pressure Evaluation of Men's Socks Using an Elastic Optical Fiber
Authors: Nishimatsu Toyonori , Ohmura Kenichi , Sekiguchi Sadamu , Toba Eiji , Shoh Kenji
Published: March 2008

In this work, factor analysis is used to study six adjectives for defining comfort in Japanese men's socks. Comfort consists of three common factors: Factor A is related to a tight feeling at the sole of socks and a cramped feeling, factor B is related to a close tit feeling, and factor C is related to a tight feeling at the top of socks and a comfortable feeling. Because the comfortable feeling is closely related to the tight feeling at the top, a system is developed to measure the clothing pressure at the top of the socks using an elastic optical fiber. The relation between the subjective evaluation of comfort and the clothing pressure as measured by the experimental system is then examined by correlation analysis. Because the clothing pressure at the sock top has a positive correlation with the tight feeling at the top and a negative correlation with the comfortable feeling, men's socks are judged loose at their tops and comfortable as the clothing pressure at the top decreases.
Theoretical and Practical Aspects of Fiber Length Comparisons of Various Cottons
Authors: Xiaoliang Cui  , Calamari Timothy A. , Suh Moon W.
Published: March 2008

Fiber length is one of the most important physical properties of cotton. Frequently, it is necessary to compare the fiber lengths of various cottons. The commonly used statistical characteristics of a cotton fiber length distribution include the mean fiber length, short fiber content, and upper quartile length. These statistics may be calculated from number-based or weight-based distributions. This paper shows theoretically and experimentally that number-based and weight-based statistics may give opposite rank orders in some cases when they are used to compare cotton fiber lengths.
Influence of Waste Polymer Inclusion on the Performance of Oriented Polypropylene Geotextile Tapes
Authors: Horrocks A. Richard , Ghosh Subhas
Published: March 2008

Part I of this series demonstrated the effects of recycled polymer inclusion on the tensile properties of oriented polypropylene tapes. Part II describes the effects of re cycled waste on structure and morphology. Under constant conditions of tape extrusion and drawing, the IR crystallinity of orientated tape shows a U-shaped relationship with waste concentration. There is a sudden drop of crystallinity at low waste concentration, which passes through a minimum with increasing waste content, and then gradually rises to the lower crystallinity value of the tape containing 100% waste. Sonic modulus and birefringence values decrease with increasing waste concentration. These changes in tape crystallinity and orientation, along with decreasing molecular weight, explain the loss of tape tenacity owing to the introduction of waste polymer during extrusion. Improved molecular orientation is evident in the presence of additional antioxidant stabilizer, because polymer chain degradation during processing is reduced.
Wet Comfort of Small Disposable Incontinence Pads
Authors: Cottenden A.M. , Thornburn P.H. , Dean G.E. , Fader M.J. , Brooks R.J.
Published: March 2008

The relationship between the wet comfort of small disposable incontinence pads and their absorption capacity and rewet properties is studied by asking twenty lightly in continent women to test a range of experimental pads. In Experiment 1, testers use a random mix of three pad variants, log the time at which they put on and take off each pad, and score it for leakage performance, wet comfort, and absorbence using a three point scale ( Good, OK, Poor). Used pads are weighed and pad performance is studied as a function of urine weight, wear time, and put-on time. In Experiment 2, testers are asked to compare the overall performance and leakage performance of different pairs of pad variants, having used each for a week. As expected, pads with high absorption capacity and low rewet work best, but differences are smaller than conventional wisdom would have predicted and often fail to reach statistical significance.
Blend Uniformity of a Filament and Staple Composite Yarn and Its Effect on Dyeing
Authors: Su Ching-Iuan , Wu Wen-Yean , Lee Jiunn-Yih
Published: March 2008

This study describes the effect of spread width and spreading behavior on the blend uniformity of a cotton/polyester filament blend yarn and the latter's effect on dyeing. The results show the wider the spread width, the more uniform the spreading among individual filaments. Higher blend uniformity also ultimately results in more uniform dyeing. The spread width of polyester multifilament yarn is controlled while passing through the spreading 'electrode and condenser during the spinning process, which greatly improves blend uniformity and ultimately dyeing evenness.
Physical Properties and Processing of Fine Merino Lamb's Wool
Authors: Madeley Tony , Postle Ron , Mahar Trevor
Published: March 2008

Literature pertinent to fiber properties and handle of fine Merino lamb's and fleece wool is critically discussed. The softness of handle of fine Merino wool varies inversely with loose fiber resistance to compression. This complex raw wool parameter has geo metric and mechanical attributes. Fiber bending and torsional rigidity are important mechanical factors that depend on mean fiber diameter, cross-sectional shape, and Young's modulus. Crimp frequency, amplitude, and form are equally important geo metric factors. Those characteristics that distinguish lamb's and adult wool and appear to account for the relative softness of hand of lamb's compared with fleece wool are presented in Part II.
Drafting Force of Fine Denier Polyester Fibers
Authors: Su Ching-Iuan , Lo Kuo-Jung , Lee Jiunn-Yih
Published: March 2008

In this paper, we use fine denier polyester fibers (0.8 denier) as the test material to measure drafting force in the break draft zone. The fundamental relationships between drafting conditions (such as drafting ratio, roller gauge, twist multiplier, and fiber mass) and drafting force follow the same trend as for cotton fibers. However, the drafting force curves reveal some differences between them. The character of the former reveals that it has a high drafting force value and a broader peak range. The force variation in the lower drafting ratio before the peak is low and steady, a very important parameter that is better correlated to the properties of spun yarn than the mean drafting force. In actual spinning, better quality yam is obtained with a suitably lower draft.
Physical Properties of Wool Fibers in Electrolyte Solutions
Authors: Huson M.G.
Published: March 2008

The tensile modulus of Lincoln wool fibers immersed in a range of neutral salt solutions has been investigated as a function of time and solution concentration. Salt solutions with high water activity, reduced ionic strength, and low viscosity will lead to favorable conditions for the penetration of ions into the fibers. The reduction in tensile modulus when salts penetrate wool fibers can be fully accounted for by the increased regain and associated swelling of the fibers. It appears unlikely that the breaking of salt links or destabilization of the α-helices plays a significant role in reducing the tensile properties of wool fibers in neutral salt solutions.
Molecular Weight of Cotton Cellulose: Effect of Treatment with a Total Cellulase
Authors: Rousselle Marie-Alice , Howley Phyllis S.
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabric is treated with a total cellulase preparation in either a Launderometer or a reciprocal water bath/shaker for times ranging from 10 to 180 minutes. Control fabrics, buffer-only treated fabrics, and cellulase-treated fabrics are analyzed by gel permeation chromatography to determine peak, weight-average, and number-average molecular weights. The GPC data are compared to weight loss and breaking load mea surements on control and treated fabrics. Despite considerable weight loss and breaking load reduction with the total cellulase treatment in the Launderometer, GPC analysis does not show a reduction in the molecular weight of the cellulose.
Effect of Solvents on Physical Properties and Dyeability of Poly( ethylene-2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylate) Fibers
Authors: Ping Yueh Wang  , Jin Feng Ma
Published: March 2008

Different organic solvents are added to a dyebath containing a disperse dye for dyeing poly(ethylene-2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylate) (PEN) fibers. Four different sol vents, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 2-methyl-2-propanol, and 1,4-butylene glycol, are studied for their effect on the glass transition temperature ( Tg), swelling, tenacity, dyebath exhaustion, and color strength of PEN fibers. The treated fibers show a decrease in Tg, an increase in swelling, and a loss in tenacity. All of these solvents increase dye uptake to different extents, depending upon their ability to plasticize the fiber. Among the solvents used, 1-butanol gives the maximum increase in dye uptake.