bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
A Model for the Tensile Fracture Behavior of Air-Jet Spun Yarns
Authors: Rajamanickam Rangaswamy , Hansen Steven M. , Jayaraman Sundaresan
Published: March 2008

A model that describes the fracture behavior of air-jet spun yarns is proposed. The failure mechanism of wrapper and core fibers is described, and an expression for com puting total yarn strength is derived. The effects of structural parameters and fiber properties on the strength of air-jet spun yarns are discussed, and the limitations of the model are analyzed.
A Study of Smoldering Conditions in Upholstery Fabrics Using Thermal Imaging
Authors: Gandhi Sanjeev , Spivak Steven M. , Pourdeyhimi Behnam
Published: March 2008

Thin, porous textile fabrics that are predominantly cellulosic in content are partic ularly prone to smoldering when exposed to a low energy, localized heat source such as a cigarette fire cone. A thermal imaging technique for measuring transient temper ature fields is used to study smoldering ignition in upholstery fabrics with a simulated cigarette source. A method is described for measuring dynamic surface temperature gradients. Empirical data are presented in terms of peak surface temperature and en closed area within specific isotherms. When the representative temperature in the smol dering zone is greater than 450°C, the smoldering spread is maintained. Cotton duck fabrics do not show the reported reduction in smoldering propensity with decreasing areal density and washing of alkali metal ions. In contrast, the results for upholstery fabrics do allude to a mitigation of smoldering propensity with a significant lowering of surface temperature and isothermal area measurements.
Investigating the Photo-Oxidation of Wool Using FT-Raman and FT-IR Spectroscopies
Authors: Jones D.C. , Carr C.M. , Cooke W.D. , Lewis D.M.
Published: March 2008

Fourier transform infrared and Fourier transform Raman spectroscopies are used in combination to investigate the photo-oxidation of wool and the protective effect of the uv absorber Cibafast W. Extended light exposure decreases the intensity of the S-S and C-S bands due to cystine and also reduces the intensity of the C-C stretching band, which is mainly attributed to the α-helix. A "new" band at 977 cm-1 in the Raman spectrum increases with exposure time, but its nature is uncertain. Exposure to light also produces changes in the chemical environment of tyrosine residues. Cibafast W decreases the rate of disulphide bond fission and cysteic acid formation, being most effective at low levels of light exposure. This effect is confirmed by measurements of the rate of photoyellowing and phototendering of wool fabrics.
Quality Control of Silicone Softener Application
Authors: Tzanov TZ , Betcheva R. , Hardalov I. , Hes L.
Published: March 2008

In this paper, the effect of silicone softener application on low-stress mechanical and surface properties of textile materials is investigated using the Kawabata evaluation system for fabrics. Regression equations are derived to describe the influence of the treatment conditions—temperature, curing time, and softener concentration—on mea sured KES characteristics. The physicomechanical parameters of most correlation in teractions and the importance of end quality are outlined. This work provides an ap proach for selecting KES parameters that are appropriate for quality control in silicone softener application.
Investigating New Factors in Cotton Color Grading
Authors: Xu B. , Fang C. , Watson M.D.
Published: March 2008

The objective of this research is to further investigate factors that may have significant influence on cotton color measurement but are not considered in the current cotton color grading system. These factors include the redness content ( a) in cotton chroma and the presence of yellow spots and trash particles in cotton. The study is based on the color data of the USDA physical standards for U.S. upland cotton and a number of selected samples measured by the imaging colorimeter (CTC), developed in the previous research, and a Minolta CR-210 colorimeter. There are three major results in this study: first, the a content makes up 10% to 33% of the chroma, varying primarily with the major color category (white, light spotted, spotted, tinged, and yellow stained). Within the same category, a is less variable than yellowness b. An approximate +a range for each major color category is determined. Second, CTC is less sensitive to the presence of spots and trash particles in the sample than CR-210 because CTC has a much larger viewing area. Third, the influence of spots and trash on the cotton color measurements depends on their sizes and colors in the sample. A change in cotton color data made by spots and trash may lead to a change in color grade. The computational removal of these regions from the sample image in CTC is effective in minimizing the effects of spots and trash. In addition, the paper introduces a new color diagram built on the measurements of reflectance-redness ( Rd ∼ a) , which identifies the useful role of a in cotton color grading.
Effects of Variations in Thermal Properties on the Performance of Flame Resistant Fabrics for Flash Fires
Authors: Torvi David A. , Dale J. Douglas
Published: March 2008

A numerical model of heat transfer in thermal protective fabrics under high heat flux conditions is used to determine the effects of varying individual thermal properties and boundary conditions on the predicted performance of single layer fabrics during bench top tests simulating flash fire conditions. The fabric thermal properties with the largest effects are thermal conductivity and specific heat. The boundary conditions, i.e., flame temperature and emissivity and convective heat transfer coefficient, have an even larger effect on predicted bench top test results. The results of the parametric studies are described in this paper, along with a discussion about how these results may be used to design thermal protective fabrics.
Quantitative Determination of BTCA Bound to Cellulosic Material by Means of Isocratic HPLC
Authors: Schramm Christian , Rinderer Beate , Bobleter Ortwin
Published: March 2008

1,2,3,4-Butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) offers an alternative to the conventional N- methylol compounds as a crosslinking agent for cellulosic textiles. Thus, it is of particular interest to determine the amount of BTCA that reacts with the cellulosic material. In this research, we saponify the cured fabric by means of a NaOH solution. The BTCA concen tration in the saponification mixture is measured with the aid of isocratic HPLC using the strong cationic exchange column Aminex HPX-87-H in combination with a uv detector. We study the effect of different concentrations of NaOH and find that there is a significant saponification reaction with NaOH concentrations greater than 0.05 M. Measurements of the dry crease recovery angle (DCRA) and IR transmission spectra indicate that the sapon ification reaction is complete. We test the analytical procedure by investigating three dif ferent fabrics impregnated with finish solutions containing 2, 4, 6, and 8% (w/w) BTCA and 6% (w/w) SHP (sodium hypophosphite). To verify the accuracy of the quantitative determination, we use calibration curve and standard additions methods. Recovery is 97.4 - 103.2% depending on the weight fraction of BTCA in the finish bath and on the fabric. Our statistics confirm that this procedure proves a precise and accurate analytical method for quantifying BTCA that has reacted with cellulosic fabrics.
Modeling Uniaxial Tensile Properties of Multiaxial Warp Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Jinlian Hu  , Yaming Jiang  , Ko Frank
Published: March 2008

Multiaxial warp knitted (MWK) fabrics were formerly developed as substrates for flexible coated fabrics. They have an important role in industrial applications due to their outstanding mechanical properties. At the beginning of the 1990s, MWK fabrics entered the field of rigid structural composites to produce aerospace quality compo nents, marine parts, and automotive frames. Although many papers have been published on the technology, structure, and properties of MWK fabrics as well as their composites, so far there is no model dealing with mechanical properties, which greatly restricts the designs and applications of these fabrics. In this paper, a uniaxial tensile model is built, and a formula for calculating the tensile modulus of the fabric in any direction is presented. In addition, the theoretical model is justified by the tests from the Instron 4466, which show good agreement between theoretical and experimental results.
Effects of Repeated Extension and Recovery on Selected Physical Properties of ISO-301 Stitched Seams
Authors: Webster J. , Laing R.M. , Enlow R.L.
Published: March 2008

A theoretical viscoelastic model based on the four-element Burgers model is devel oped to predict changes in load with time of ISO-301 stitched seams under longitudinal loading subjected to extension/recovery cycling at a constant rate of extension. Param eters calculated from experimental stress relaxation curves are used to determine the theoretical relationship between load and time for tensile cycling. The model gives good agreement with experimental stress relaxation behavior of seams over the range 0-30 seconds. Theoretical predictions of load versus time give the best agreement with experimentally derived tensile cycling curves for seams cycled between the lowest extension limits. The exact solution of the theoretical model consists of a double ex ponential expression, suggesting that two processes are responsible for the change in load of seams with tensile cycling, a result consistent with the statistical model for seam ageing and with visual observations described in Part I of this series.
Evaluating Staple Fiber Processing Propensity
Authors: El Mogazhy Yehia , Broughton Roy , Hong Guo  , Rollins Chad
Published: March 2008

This part of our study focuses on an analysis of the fiber processing propensity of polyester fibers and cotton/polyester blends. Using the modified rotor ring system discussed in Part I, we conduct several experiments and obtain some interesting results indicating that polyester fibers have a uniquely different processing propensity than cotton fibers, and that different kinds of polyester fibers may behave differently during processing. When polyester fibers are blended with cotton fibers, the processing pro pensity of the blend varies in a nonlinear fashion with respect to the behavior of the individual components. When repeated processing runs are considered, cotton fibers require lower energy for opening than the first run, while polyester fibers require sub stantially higher energy. Finally, the proposed processing propensity measures correlate well with parameters characterizing actual processing performance. including nep count and short fiber content of fibers and cohesion of actual drawn slivers.
Moisture Vapor Transport Through Waterproof Breathable Fabrics and Clothing Systems Under a Temperature Gradient
Authors: Gretton J.C. , Brook D.B. , Dyson H.M. , Harlock S.C.
Published: March 2008

Moisture vapor transport through waterproof breathable samples and clothing sys tems under a temperature gradient is examined using a simple research method. The results are compared with those obtained from isothermal tests. The transport properties are identified as being dependent on the temperature gradient across the waterproof breathable layer, the humidity of the clothing microclimate, and the interaction between water vapor and the clothing layers. The transport properties of hydrophilic polymers and clothing systems incorporating hydrophilic polymers, especially those with low transmission rates in the isothermal tests, improve by considerably greater amounts than those incorporating microporous polymers when a temperature gradient is applied.
Chemical/Physical Retting of Flax Using Detergent and Oxalic Acid at High pH
Authors: Henriksson Gunnar , Eriksson Karl-Erik L. , Kimmel Linda , Akin Danny E.
Published: March 2008

An oxalic acid-based system for chemically retting flax is tested and compared with enzymatic retting. The retting effect is substantially higher at pH 10 and 11 than at lower pH levels, and the optimal oxalic acid concentration is 50 mmol. The presence of the strong detergent sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) further enhances retting. The rate of retting with the oxalic acid/SDS mixture at pH 10 is strongly temperature dependent, and at 75°C the process is completed within 2 hours. Tests of fiber properties ( e.g., tex, tenacity, and elongation) indicate that the chemical/physical retting method pro duces fibers of textile quality that can be spun into flax-rich blends with cotton.
Peculiarities in the Apparent Fading Behavior of Some Reactive Dyes in Binary Mixtures
Authors: Nandy D.
Published: March 2008

This paper deals with studies of the lightfastness of reactive dyes in combination shades. In this work, fifteen commercially available reactive dyes are chosen to obtain both self and binary shades on 100% cotton fabric. Lightfastness of the dyed samples is evaluated by exposing them to a xenon arc lamp using a xenon Weather-O-meter (Atlas S-3000) and assessed subjectively with the Blue Wool Standard. Lightfastness is further confirmed objectively with the help of a spectrophotometer, when the total color difference (CIE-DE) between unexposed and exposed samples is 3.4 or more in CIELAB units. The study reveals that some reactive dyes, when used in combination shades, show lightfastness ratings that are even lower than the lowest values of the individual dyes constituting the mixture.
Measuring and Fuzzy Predicting Total Handle from Selected Mechanical Properties of Double Weft-Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Park Shin-Woong , Hwang Young-Gu
Published: March 2008

The mechanical and handle properties of three groups of double weft-knitted fabrics are measured using the KES-FB system. The double-jersey fabrics consist of double weft-knitted structures (knit, tuck, and welt stitches), and are further divided according to density and then fully relaxed. For hand measurements, seven principal physical and mechanical properties are selected (EMT, RT, RC, B, 2HG, w, MIU), which are related to four possible ways of deformation in double weft-knitted fabrics. The importance of their characteristics is deduced from a survey of a panel of thirty judges. Primary hand and total hand values from the KES-FB are analyzed and compared with our alternative simplified fuzzy total hand test result. The results from the new method for double weft-knitted fabrics provide experts with meaningful values in comparison with Ka wabata's total hand values.
An Experimental Study of the Effect of Test Speed on Yarn Hairiness
Authors: Xungai Wang  , Lingli Chang
Published: March 2008

In this paper, we examine the hairiness of ring and rotor spun yarns at four different speeds of 20, 60, 100, and 140 m/min using the latest Shirley SDL096/98 hairiness/ friction meter. Contrary to previous results obtained for similar yarns using other com mercial hairiness meters, we observe a reduction in yarn hairiness with increased test speed. We also examine the effects of yarn guide, yarn angle, and rewinding on yarn hairiness. The results indicate that hair direction, air drag on hairs, and frictional rub bing of the yam being tested have a significant effect on yarn hairiness. We postulate that the different trends of speed effects on yarn hairiness from different hairiness meters may stem from differing contact conditions between the yarns and the various yam guides on the respective hairiness meters. Such different trends also suggest that reconciling hairiness results from different hairiness meters may be difficult.
Air Flow Through Textiles at High Differential Pressures
Authors: Belkacemi Khaled , Broadbent Arthur D.
Published: March 2008

Air flow through fabrics at relatively high differential pressures is studied both ex perimentally and theoretically. An extension of a previous model for fluid flow through a bed of fibers takes into account the geometric irregularities and deflection of the fibers, successfully predicting that the pressure drop across the fabric is a linear function of the air flow rate up to the pressure corresponding to critical flow conditions. It also correctly predicts values for the elastic moduli of the various fibers. The influence of fiber swelling induced by wetting on air permeability is examined. At high differential pressures (55 kPa), a decreased air flow rate is found only for wool fabrics. Under the conditions of the standard fabric air permeability test (differential pressure 12.3 Pa), water blocking the channels in the wet fabric is not removed, so the air permeability is much less than that for the conditioned fabric.
A Simple Method for Measuring the Potential Resuspension of Dust from Carpets in the Indoor Environment
Authors: Kildesø Jan , Vinzents Peter , Schneider Thomas , Kloch Niels Peter
Published: March 2008

Carpets have an important influence on the comfort of room occupants in the indoor environment, but dust accumulating in carpets due to insufficient cleaning may have an adverse effect on indoor air quality. An easy-to-use method for evaluating the clean ing quality of carpets has been developed in this study, based on the resuspension of dust from a carpet by a falling weight. The resuspended dust is drawn with the airflow through a sampling pipe, where part of the dust is deposited on a sticking foil due to turbulence in the pipe. The amount of dust on this foil is quantified by a laser-based instrument. The new method is tested in the laboratory and in the field on three different carpet types with different dust loadings. It proves to be highly feasible for quantifying the potential resuspension of dust from different carpet types.
On-Line Measurement of Fabric Bending Behavior
Authors: Naiyue Zhou  , Ghosh Tushar K.
Published: March 2008

A nonlinear, dynamic fabric bending model is introduced to study the dynamic effects on loop formation and measured characteristic parameters. In order to verify the theoretical results and test the measurement principle, an experimental system based on the principles of loops 3 and 4 is developed. The influence of fabric linear speed and movement direction on the measured values is discussed. Discrepancies between theoretical and experimental observations indicate that a full understanding of the ef fects of the fabric bending rate on bending properties is necessary to accurately model bending behavior when a high bending rate is involved. The work demonstrates a strong correlation between the on-line and off-line measured results.
Measuring Fiber Orientation in Nonwovens Part V: Real Webs
Authors: Pourdehyhimi B. , Dent R. , Jerbi A. , Tanaka S. , Deshpande A.
Published: March 2008

This paper extends the work of the first four parts of this series to apply the image analysis methods we have developed to characterize the fiber orientation of real non woven fabrics. The "real" fabrics chosen as typical are a carded crimped fiber web, two relatively dense overall or area bonded fabrics, a pattern or point bonded spun bonded-meltblown-spunbonded fabric, and a lightweight spunbonded nonwoven. In order to deal with real webs, it is necessary to develop a lighting system to give images with sufficient contrast along with an appropriate thresholding method to yield data suitable for analysis. The results indicate that the chord tracking method can charac terize orientation reliably when a direct measure is needed, and the information can be used to characterize and compare nonwoven laydown processes.
Image Analysis of Composite Yarn Cross Sections
Authors: Su Ching-Iuan , Leu Ching-Shyang , Chern Horng-Ming
Published: March 2008

This work discusses the application of computer image analysis to study cross sections of polyester filament/rayon staple fiber composite yarns. It attempts to quantify the distri bution of dispersed filaments in images of cross sections obtained with a scanning electron microscope and analyzed by computer algorithms. This work also defines parameters such as radial and lateral distribution indices and aggregation and normalized indices for quan tifying the composite yarn cross sections. The results reveal that computer image analysis and manual analysis systems provide nearly identical results.
Steady-State Unwinding of Yarn from Cylindrical Packages
Authors: Xiang Ming Kong  , Rahn Christopher D. , Goswami Bhuvenesh C.
Published: March 2008

Over-end unwinding involves pulling yam from a fixed package to be used in textile processes such as knitting, sewing, twisting, weft insertion in weaving, and doubling. During unwinding, the yam slides on the package surface and lifts off into the balloon formed between the package and the guide eyelet. Variations in yam tension and bal loon shape can adversely affect process efficiency and final product quality. This paper investigates the steady-state motion of inextensible yam during unwinding. Previously developed models that predict the yam tension and motion in the unwinding balloon and on the package surface are modified to include the effects of nonzero wind angle packages and to allow comparison with experimental results. In the experiment, PC controlled video, tension, speed, and yam rotation sensors measure nine dynamic un winding process variables. Synchronized tension measurements and video images allow simultaneous measurement of eyelet and lift-off tension, balloon height, and lift-off and unwind height and angles. The optical balloon rotation sensor measures balloon rotation rate and balloon shape. In agreement with the theory, increased balloon height and decreased air drag lead to higher tension. Multiple loop balloons have lower tension and occur at larger balloon heights. Yam tension during forward unwinding (i.e., lift off point moving toward the guide eye) is significantly smaller than in backward un winding due to increased balloon rotation rate. A higher unwinding tension and liftoff angle result in a longer yam sliding path on the package surface.
Humidity-Dependent Air Permeability of Textile Materials1
Authors: Gibson Phillip , Rivin Donald , Kendrick Cyrus , Schreuder-Gibson Heidi
Published: March 2008

Changes in fabric structure as hygroscopic fibers swell at high humidities can have a large influence on the measured air permeability of fabrics such as cotton, wool, silk, and nylon. The variation of air permeability as a function of relative humidity is of practical importance in ranking and evaluating candidate textiles for protective clothing applications. This paper describes a test method used to determine the relative humidity dependence of the air permeability of hygroscopic woven textile fabrics. The instru mentation also permits dynamic measurements during a step change in relative humid ity. Typical results are shown for woven fabrics, nonwoven battings, and novel elec trospun fiber mats.
Viscoelastic Behavior of Polypropylene Fibers1
Authors: Manich Albert M. , Ussman Mahomed H. , Barella Alberto
Published: March 2008

The influence of mass dope dyeing and fiber fineness on polypropylene's viscoelastic behavior is studied. The standard linear. solid element model, the Vangheluwe model, and the Zurek model are used to determine this behavior. Some modifications of the Vangheluwe and Zurek models improve their ability to model viscoelastic behavior.
Simulating the Drape Behavior of Fabrics1
Authors: Fischer P. , Krzywinski S. , Rodel H. , Schenk A. , Ulbricht V.
Published: March 2008

This paper is the result of an interdisciplinary research project at the Institute of Textile and Clothing Technology and the Institute of Solid Mechanics. The aim of this project is to describe and simulate the deformation behavior of flexural fabrics ( espe cially woven fabrics). For the simulation model, the shell theory is taken as a basis. Simulating drape behavior presents a geometrically nonlinear field problem with con siderable displacements. The deformation theory and its application for fabrics is used as a practicable approach for simulating drape. Investigations of the description of the material's behavior and its properties are a further necessary focus.
Modeling the In-Plane Permeability of Woven Geotextiles1
Authors: Ariadurai S. Anbahan , Potluri Prasad , Whyte Ian L.
Published: March 2008

The in-plane permeability or transmissivity of a geotextile becomes an important property when it is used in applications involving cohesive soils (clays). Because cohesive soils are relatively impermeable, the geotextile is mainly responsible for drain ing the water from the soil structure, thus releasing the pore water pressures. When developing a woven geotextile for reinforcing cohesive soil structures, there is a need to predict transmissivity in addition to tensile properties. Existing models for predicting flow through porous media are not sufficiently accurate to predict a relatively small flow through woven fabrics. This paper presents a modeling approach, taking into consideration the intra- and interyarn geometry for any weave.
An Application of the Kubelka-Munck Relationship to Calculate the Color Fastness of a Fabric1
Authors: Convert R. , Schacher L. , Viallier P.
Published: March 2008

The fastness of a dyed fabric is currently estimated using empirical rules, and gen erally the same rule is used for a complete class of dyes, such as reactive dyes. Actually, by measuring the different colorimetric coordinates of a fabric before and after the test. it is possible to calculate a fastness assessment, this measurement being more reliable than the classical visual fastness assessment. The relation between the dye concentra tion in the fabric and the shade of the fabric is the Kubelka-Munck relation, which determines the dyeing. By using the degradation kinetics of a dye during the fastness test, it is possible to calculate the concentration variation, and with the Kubelka-Munck relationship, the change in shade during the fastness test and then a fastness assessment. But this simple calculation can be used only if we assume that the degradation of every dye is independent of the other dyes. If this hypothesis cannot be assumed, the calcu lation is much more complex. We have studied the prediction of shade degradation during a fastness test for cellulose fabrics dyed with reactive dyes.
Theoretical Control and Experimental Verification of Carded Web Density Part III: Neural Network Controller Design
Authors: Chung-Feng Jeffrey Kuo  , Chang-Chung Wang  , Chien-Teng Hsieh
Published: March 2008

A nonminimum phase property of a carded web system introduces difficulties for both classical control and neural network inverse model control. In this part of the series of papers, a two-stage artificial neural network model, including a controlled system learning scheme and controller design, is illustrated by application to feedback control for uniformly carded web density. A learning scheme is introduced using the dynamic model for general learning of the neural network along with a modified error back propagation algorithm based on propagation of the output error through the plant. A performance comparison is made of conventional control versus the artificial neural network control scheme, and the advantages of the new control strategy are effectively revealed by computer simulations.
Low Temperature Plasma on Wool Substrates: The Effect of the Nature of the Gas
Authors: Kan C.W. , Chan K. , Yuen C.W.M. , Miao M.H.
Published: March 2008

Low temperature plasma (LTP) with three different nonpolymerizing gasses—oxy gen, nitrogen, and a 25% hydrogen/75% nitrogen gas mixture—are used to study the influence of the nature of each gas on the properties of wool substrates. The properties include fiber-to-fiber friction, feltability, fabric shrinkage, surface structure, dyeability, alkali solubility, and surface chemical composition. After the LTP treatment, those prop erties of the LTP-treated substrates change, and the changes depend on the nature of the plasma gas used. All the results are discussed quantitatively.
Fiber Recognition and Distribution Analysis of PET/Rayon Composite Yarn Cross Sections Using Image Processing Techniques
Authors: Chiu Shih-Hsuan , Chen Jyh-Yeow , Lee Jun-Huei
Published: March 2008

Traditionally, the blending composition of a composite yams has been analyzed by human visual inspection, but such a method is time-consuming and inaccurate. In this study, we apply image processing techniques to analyzing cross sections of a PET/ Rayon composite yam, obtaining single fiber positions in the image with mask pro cessing. Fibers are recognized with four features: area, perimeter, compactness, and shape factor, and fiber distributions of cross sections of composite yarns are analyzed using three predefined index categories: the radial distribution index, the lateral distri bution index, and the angular distribution index.
A New Method for Improving the Dyeability of Cotton with Reactive Dyes
Authors: Cai Y. , Pailthorpe M.T. , David S.K.
Published: March 2008

In this paper, we present a fiber modification technique based on Polymer PL. The treatment shows commercial potential for improving the dyeability of cotton and re ducing the effluent discharge from dyeing processes. By examining the dyeing behavior of a wide range of reactive dyes, we have found that the modified substrates can be dyed more efficiently, even under neutral to slightly acidic conditions and in the ab sence of salt, with satisfactory dyeing quality.
Penetration of Multifunctional Epoxide into Wool and Its Effect on Shrink Resistance
Authors: Ito Hiraku , Sasaki Hiroaki , Tsuji Masaki , Kohjiya Shinzo
Published: March 2008

Wool fibers are treated with hydrophilic multifunctional epoxides (glycerol polyglyci dyl ether—GPE) under different reaction conditions, i.e., in saturated aqueous NaCl solution (sample S) and in the absence of NaCl (sample W). Add-on percentages of both samples are almost equal, but shrink-resistant properties are different for these two samples: the shrink resistance of sample W does not improved, while that of sample S improves significantly. TEM investigations of the cross sections of these samples stained with AgNO3 reveal remarkable morphological differences.
Predicting the Performance of Fabrics in Garment Manufacturing with Artificial Neural Networks
Authors: Gong R.H. , Chen Y.
Published: March 2008

Neural networks are used to predict the performance of fabrics in clothing manufac turing. The predictions are based on fabric mechanical properties measured on the KES-FB system. The influence of the number of input and hidden nodes on the convergence speed and the prediction accuracy are investigated. Tests indicate that these artificial neural networks are effective for predicting potential problems in clothing manufacturing.
Preparing Chito-Oligosaccharides as Antimicrobial Agents for Cotton
Authors: Seong Ha-Soo , Kim Jae-Pil , Ko Sohk-Won
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabric with good antimicrobial activity and durability to washing is obtained by using chito-oligosaccharides without the need for a binding chemical as a crosslinker. The fully deacetylated chitosan is depolymerized into chito-oligosaccharide using sodium nitrite. The average degree of polymerization (DP) of chito-oligosaccharide is determined by color imetric titration of a terminal aldehyde group of chito-oligosaccharide. In a pad-dry-cure process, two different chito-oligosaccharides (DP = 3 and 10) are applied to cotton fabric using the chemical reactivity of the terminal aldehyde group. The antimicrobial activity and durability to washing of the treated cotton are evaluated. The results show that at the fiftieth wash cycle, the cotton fabrics treated with 2.4% chito-oligosaccharide are able to maintain 95% (for a DP of 3) and 100% (for a DP of 10) bacterial reductions.
Tensile Behavior of Slack Fiber Bundles—Theory and Application to HVI Testing
Authors: Xiaoliang Cui  , Suh Moon W. , Sasser Preston E.
Published: March 2008

A statistical model for the tensile behavior of a bundle of slack fibers is developed in terms of its constituent single fiber properties. A large amount of data on single fiber tensile properties is obtained by a Mantis® tester. Application of this theory to HVI tensile test results shows much better agreement than other models developed earlier for bundles of straight, equal length fibers.
A Model for Calculating the Noise Absorption Capacity of Nonwoven Fiber Webs
Authors: Shoshani Yakir , Yakubov Yakov
Published: March 2008

Nonwovens can be used as noise control elements for a wide range of applications. This paper suggests a numerical method for calculating their acoustic performance using the theory of Zwikker and Kosten on sound propagation through porous media. The results for nonwovens made from acrylic fibers, cotton, and polyester are in fair agreement with experimental findings. The model yields the noise absorption coefficients of fiber webs as a function of their thickness and porosity. This relationship might serve as a guideline for the optimal design of passive control components made of nonwovens.
Clarity of Films from Wool Keratin
Authors: Pavlath Attila E. , Houssard Catherine , Camirand Wayne , Robertson George H.
Published: March 2008

The keratin in wool is a highly crosslinked protein. The high molecular weight, crosslinked structure prevents its shaping into films without extensive decomposition. Since the crosslinks are —S—S— bridges, reducing agents can break them up. resulting temporarily in lower molecular weight polymers. In this work, wool fibers are pretreated with an aqueous solution of various reducing agents to open the disulfide bonds, and then pressed into films at 130-150°C and pressures of 41.7-66.7 MPa in a hydraulic press. The optimum conditions to obtain clear, transparent films include using Na2SO3 in aqueous alcohol solutions before pressing 135°C and 55.6 MPa.
Transmissivity Behavior of Layered Needlepunched Nonwoven Geotextiles
Authors: Hwang Gin-Shing , Lu Chiu-Kuang , Lin Ming-Fung , Hwu Bao-Lin , Hsing Wen-Hao
Published: March 2008

Needlepunched nonwoven geotextiles contain considerable void space that is available for liquid transmission. Compressing a geotextile reduces its in-plane and cross-plane liquid flow because it alters the fabric's pore structure. In this study, we investigate single-fiber and layered needlepunched nonwoven geotextiles as a function of various needlepunching parameters and fiber linear density. We also evaluate the transmissivity parameter β, which describes the transmissivity property of needlepunched nonwoven geotextiles. Experimental results indicate that these transmissivities decrease to a constant value with increasing normal stress. The transmissivity behavior of needlepunched non woven geotextiles depends on raw material characteristics, needlepunching parameters, and normal stress. This study also proposes relationships to predict the transmissivity behavior of two needlepunched nonwoven geotextiles in parallel.
Molecular Modeling in Dye Chemistry: Studies Involving Two Disperse Dyes
Authors: Lye Jason , Freeman Harold S. , Hinks David
Published: March 2008

The equilibrium geometries of C.I. Disperse Yellow 86 and C.I. Disperse Red 167 are predicted using semi-empirical and mechanical methods. All semi-empirical geometry optimizations involve MNDO, MINDO/3, AM1. and PM3 Hamiltonians implemented in MOPAC, and CNDO and INDO Hamiltonians implemented in ZINDO for self-consistent field energy calculations. MOPAC optimizations use a Broyden-Fletcher-Goldfarb-Shanno func tion minimizer, while ZINDO optimizations employ a Newton-Raphson search minimiza tion technique. All semi-empirical optimizations are initiated from an identical starting structure that has been optimized with an augmented MM2 mechanical forcefield in conjunction with a conjugate gradient minimizer algorithm. When the predicted structures of the two disperse dyes are compared to x-ray crystal structures, PM3 and AM1 give the best correlations between predicted and experimental values for atomic and hydrogen bond lengths. MINDO/3 gives the closest predictions of the improper torsion angle asso ciated with aryl amino groups. PM3 and, to a lesser extent, AM1 tend to distort planar aryl amino nitrogen atoms.
Proteases as Scouring Agents for Cotton
Authors: Hsieh You-Lo , Cram Lisa
Published: March 2008

Extending from our previous work on enzymatic removal of the noncellulosics on cotton fiber surfaces, this paper reports the effects of proteolytic enzymes on improving the water wettability and absorbency of cotton fabrics. Ten proteolytic enzymes or proteases are used on greige cotton fabrics pretreated in 100°C water for 2 seconds twice. Reactions with four of the proteases significantly improve the wettability of cotton fabrics, and the resulting wetting behavior is similar or superior to alkaline scoured cotton. Several other proteases also improve cotton wettability, but to lesser extents. The optimized reaction conditions for the most effective proteases afford a range of moderate scouring conditions, including neutral to acid (pH 4) media, low temperatures (25 to 45°C), and short reaction times (10 to 30 minutes). The low temperatures of these protease reactions also lead to fewer changes in fabric thickness and porosity than in the alkaline scoured cotton fabrics.
Characterizing and Modeling Bending Properties of Multiaxial Warp Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Yaming Jiang  , Jinlian Hu  , Ko Frank
Published: March 2008

The bending behavior of multiaxial warp knitted (MWK) fabrics is quite different from that of plain weaves and other apparel materials. According to the bending hysteresis curves obtained from KES-FB-2 (Kawabata's evaluation system), MWK fabric bending involves not only the spreading of filaments in inserting yarns, but also the buckling of inserting yams, which accounts for the more remarkable irregularity and nonsymmetry of MWK fabric bending hysteresis curves compared with those of plain weaves. Furthermore, the inserting yarns not completely parallel to the applied bending moment direction will undergo both bending and torsional deformation during a bending cycle. Experimental observation and theoretical study has shown that the bending paths of those non- orthogonally bent yarn systems follow different cylindrical helices. In this paper, a predictive bending model proves to be applicable in assessing the bending behavior of MWK fabrics in different bending directions, and the bending rigidity corresponding to an arbitrary curvature can be calculated with this model as well. Frictional restraint within fabrics is also discussed.
Evaluating Nonwoven Fabric Irregularity on the Basis of Linnik Functionals
Authors: Cherkassky Arkady
Published: March 2008

New statistical characteristics are suggested for analyzing nonwoven fabric irregularity. These characteristics are based on the concept of outliers of random field irregularity beyond (or beneath) a fixed level, and allow the area and volume of these outliers to be determined. Outlier statistics are studied and results are presented for calculating their confidence intervals and the dimensions of the sample. The results of the simulation are presented, and the influence of nonhomogeneous random field irregularity on the outliers is depicted. The experimental part of the paper presents the results of a study in micro- and macroscale of some nonwoven fabrics. Some practical aspects of the new characteristics of nonwoven irregularity are also given. Typical application problems are set up, and examples of solutions are given.
Influence of Fiber Structure on Properties of Thermally Point Bonded Polypropylene Nonwovens
Authors: Dharmadhikary Rahul K. , Davis Hawthorne , Gilmore Thomas F. , Batra Subhash K.
Published: March 2008

Carded webs with a basis weight of 30 g/m2 are prepared from Hercules T-196 and Hercules T-101 polypropylene fibers, then thermally point bonded with "Novonette" rolls at various temperatures and pressures. A subset of samples is studied in relative detail using various methods. In particular, the distribution of bridging fiber strengths after bonding is measured directly. Bonding at higher temperatures reduces single fiber strength and increases its variability while increasing the effectiveness (strength) of the bonds. These competing effects appear to explain the maximum fabric-strength-versus-bonding temperature relationship. Bonding performance differences between these two fibers appear to depend on the fact that nonfailing bonds can be produced at lower temperatures in the T-196, where fiber strength degradation is less, and possibly to a lesser extent on the higher elongation and concave-down curvature of the stress-strain relationship.
Objective Evaluation of Seam Pucker Using Artificial Intelligence
Authors: Chang Kyu Park  , Tae Jin Kang
Published: March 2008

A quantitative method for evaluating seam pucker in garment manufacturing is devel oped from three-dimensional image analysis using artificial intelligence. A laser scanning system created with a specially designed laser sensor measures the surface profile of seam pucker. Since the conventional AATCC rating system is not sufficient to quantitatively evaluate seam pucker, a new quantitative evaluating method is developed based on the geometric model of seam pucker. For shape descriptions of seam pucker, five shape parameters are proposed considering the surface of a seamed fabric puckered with wavy shapes. The shape of seam pucker can be defined as three-dimensional waves generated on the seam line and propagated to the edge line. The five shape parameters are the number of wave generating points, the wave amplitudes, and the wavelengths on the line next to the seam and on the edge line. A simulator produces puckered shapes when the five shape parameters are specified. For the simulator, puckered waves are assumed to be sine curves with one cycle, and a wave propagation algorithm is applied considering the randomness and irregularity of the materials and sewing parameters. The shape parameters are sufficient to represent the realistic shape of seam pucker. In order to construct neurofuzzy engines for a new evaluation method of seam pucker with the shape param eters, the engines are trained using many reference puckered seams for which the shape parameters are specified. The reference puckered seams are produced with a simulator when the shape parameters are specified.
Bending and Shear Properties of Cotton Fabrics Subjected to Cellulase Treatment
Authors: Mori R. , Haga T. , Takagishi T.
Published: March 2008

Changes in the residual curvature and residual shear strain of eight cotton fabrics after cellulase treatment are compared with those of a polyester staple fabric after alkali treatment. The residual curvature of the cottons decreases less than that of the polyester, and the residual shear strain in the weft measurements of the cottons also decreases less than the polyester. These behaviors can be explained by the fact that cotton fibers are hydrolyzed not only on the fiber surface, but also within the fiber by cellulase treatment. The relation of the change in residual curvature in weft measurements to treatment time and mass/area suggests that the inelastic property decreases less efficiently in the cottons than in the polyester. These observations are consistent with the fact that the inner structure of the cotton fibers is degraded during cellulase treatment.
Analyzing Convective Heat and Mass Transfer in Through-Air Drying of Fabrics
Authors: Ramaswamy S. , Cui Y.
Published: March 2008

In studying the through-air drying (TAD) of tissues and towels, the drying and heating of TAD fabrics as part of the overall system is considered for the first time. For a simple, single-layer TAD fabric structure, convective drying and heating is modeled using well- known heat and mass transfer models developed in general chemical engineering practice. The models are circular pipe flow, flow over cylinder, and packed bed. All three models predict a long fabric drying period and a quick fabric heating period. The constant temperatures of the fabrics during the fabric drying period predicted by all three models are nearly the same, and are close to the adiabatic saturation temperature of the inlet air, depending only on the temperature and supply humidity and not on the air flow rate. The drying rates predicted by the packed bed and flow over cylinder models are significantly higher than that by the circular pipe flow model. Further verification of the suitability of using either the packed bed or the flow over cylinder model to simulate fabric drying and heating during through-air drying is suggested.
Flexible Multifunction Instrument' for Automated Nonwoven Web Structure Analysis
Authors: Yan Zanyao , Bresee Randall R.
Published: March 2008

We have developed analysis tools to characterize nonwoven web structures based on image analysis techniques. Six analysis modules we previously reported are integrated into one automated instrument system. In this paper, we discuss hardware and software designs used to achieve instrument flexibility, automated operation, and multifunctional analysis capability. We hope this discussion will be useful to other people interested in textile instrument development and automated testing.
Cotton Fiber Length Changes in the Spinning Process on the Basis of AFIS Measurements
Authors: Zurek W. , Greszta M. , Frydrych I. , Balcar G.
Published: March 2008

Theoretical considerations of changes in fiber length during technological processes are presented along with an experimental study. Special attention is paid to the combing process. A comparison of fiber length results measured by AFIS and MShU is given at different stages along the particular technological processes.
Low Temperature Plasma Treatment of Linen
Authors: Wong K.K. , Tao X.M. , Yuen C.W.M. , Yeung K.W.
Published: March 2008

Low temperature plasma treatments are applied to linen with oxygen and argon at various discharge power levels and exposure times. Their effects on bulk structure, surface morphology, flax fiber properties, and related fabric properties are investigated with a range of analytical methods. X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy reveals that the surface oxygen content of the plasma treated samples increases, which is supported by the results from fabric whiteness tests. Formation of voids and cracks on fiber surfaces is revealed by scanning electron microscopy. There is no significant change in x-ray crystallinity and cuprammonium fluidity, but there is a slight reduction in moisture regain for all plasma treated samples. Fabric weight loss increases with exposure time. Fabric water uptake and strength first increase and then decrease with prolonged exposure, whereas fabric bending rigidity, hysteresis, and wrinkle recovery improve slightly.
Color Grading of Cotton Part I: Spectral and Color Image Analysis
Authors: Duckett Kermit , Zapletalova Terezie , Cheng Luo , Ghorashi Hossein , Watson Michael
Published: March 2008

Spectrometer measurements of the color of cotton based on CIE standards are investi gated and compared with high volume instrumentation (HVI) methods. Additionally, color imaging and spatial interpretation are examined with the intent of demonstrating the importance of color uniformity, trash content, and yellow spots on classer color grading. The result is that agreement between HVI color grading and the cotton classer can likely be enhanced by including the CIE color space redness parameter α*, trash content, and yellowness variability.
Effect of Test Speed and Twist Level on the Hairiness of Worsted Yarns
Authors: Xungai Wang  , Wei Huang  , Xiubao Huang
Published: March 2008

This paper examines the effect of test speed and yarn twist level on the hairiness of worsted yarns. Pure wool yarns of three different twist levels are spun on a worsted ring frame, then tested for hairiness on the hairiness attachment to a Uster Tester 3 at three speeds of 25, 100, and 400 m/min. The results indicate that regardless of the yarn's twist level, yarn hairiness tested at 400 m/min is higher than that obtained at 25 and 100 m/min, and the difference is statistically significant at the 5% significance level. But there is no statistically significant difference between hairiness results obtained at 25 and 100 m/min. In addition, yarn hairiness readings in single mea surements follow a lognormal distribution.