bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Structure of Regenerated Cellulose Fibers from DMAc/LiCl Solution
Authors: Hong Young-Keun , Chung Kyung-Ho , Lee Wha-Seop
Published: March 2008

Solutions of celtulose (Cell) in dimethylacetamide (DMAc)/lithium chloride (LiCl) solvent are spun and annealed. The resulting fibers show various polymorphs with the different coagulants and annealing temperatures. Prior to annealing, as-spun fibers show Cell III morphology without differentiating the kind of coagulants. Fibers annealed at 170°C show Cell IV morphology and have better tensile strength than fibers annealed at 190°C, which show Cell III morphology.
Fatigue Behavior of Aramid Nonwoven Fabrics Under Hot-Press Conditions
Authors: Watanabe Akira , Miwa Minoru , Yokoi Teruyuki , Nakayama Akira
Published: March 2008

We set out to find the most suitable design for heat-resistant nonwoven fabrics to be used as components of laminated cushion materials. The changes in mechanical prop erties and durability of a nonwoven fabric subjected to repeated hot-press fatiguing treatments depend on the properties of the fiber material and the structure of the non woven. In this paper, we focus on fiber fineness, one of the material properties, and discuss its influence on the mechanical properties of nonwoven fabrics after hot-press fatiguing. We find that a nonwoven made of fine fibers has a higher tensile breaking strength and a higher tensile modulus than those made of larger diameter fibers. The nonwovens we prepared have the same fabric basis weight with different fiber diam eters. Accordingly, the finer fiber nonwoven has a larger number of component fibers than those of larger diameter fibers, and the degree of fiber entanglement in the finer fiber nonwoven is higher because the number of fibers caught by the needle is greater when the fibers are finer. Tensile breaking strength is proportional to the degree of fiber entanglement, so the finer fiber nonwoven has a higher tensile breaking strength. However, this strength decreases after too many fatiguing treatment cycles, probably due to the deterioration of the fiber material (Nomex). As regards compressive behav ior, the finer fiber nonwoven has a lower compressive strain and a higher modulus than those of the larger diameter fibers. These tensile and compressive properties are closely related to the nonwoven's fiber packing factor.
Classifying Textile Faults with a Back-Propagation Neural Network Using Power Spectra
Authors: Chen Pei-Wen , Liang Tsair-Chun , Yau Hon-Fai , Sun Wan-Li , Wang Nai-Chueh , Horng Chi lin  , Rong Cherng Lien
Published: March 2008

A real-time system designed to detect and classify textile defects is presented. The system starts with an analysis of the optical Fourier transform of sample textiles. We also use a back-propagation neural network to help detect and classify defects. Exper imental results show that the system is able to detect and classify nine out of the twelve kinds of defects in its data base.
Combining Traditional Cotton Scouring with Cellulase Enzymatic Treatment
Authors: Csiszár Emília , Szakács György , Rusznák István
Published: March 2008

The action of a cellulase enzymatic pretreatment in the efficient alkaline scouring of cotton fabrics is studied and reported in this work. Improved removal of seed-coat fragments is the primary goal of the experiments, and spinning blowroom waste, rich in seed-coat fragments, is the main target substrate for enzymatic studies. Commercially available cellulase enzyme, a complex mixture of cellulase components (endo- and exoglucanases, beta-glucosidase) and accompanying enzymes (e.g., hemicellulases. pectinases ), is used throughout the experiments. Depending on time and enzyme con centration, 28-34% of the spinning blowroom waste can be hydrolyzed by cellulase. With consecutive cellulase treatment and traditional pad-steam scouring, weight loss is as high as 78-86%. Alkaline cotton scouring (control) results in only 66% weight loss. The cellulase enzyme complex makes the residual seed-coat fragments more ac cessible to scouring chemicals. The effect of enzymatic treatment on seed-coat fragment removal from desized cotton fabric is also significant. As photomicrographs show, the tiny fibers that attach the seed-coat fragments to the fabric are hydrolyzed by the enzyme, facilitating removal of these impurities from the fabric surface.
Intermediate Filament Packing in α-Keratin of Echidna Quill
Authors: James Veronica J. , Amemiya Yoshiyuki
Published: March 2008

The swelling and associated physical behavior of wool α-keratin fibers when im mersed in a solution of formic acid in water have given rise to a detailed model for hexagonal packing of the intermediate filaments in hard α-keratin. Low-angle syn chrotron x-ray diffraction studies of the α-keratin fibers of dry and fully hydrated echidna quills not only provide extremely accurate measurements of the radii of the intermediate filaments and their center-to-center spacing, but also reveal the superpos ition of two separate infinite lattices in the meridional direction, one the accepted infinite repeat length of α-keratin, 47.0 ± 0.2 nm, and the other 62.6 ± 0.2 nm. Despite considerable overlapping, there are sufficient reflections unique to each lattice. These results and the equatorial data are consistent with the hexagonal packing suggested from the swelling experiments.
Fatigue Behavior of Aramid Nonwoven Fabrics Under Hot-Press Conditions
Authors: Watanabe Akira , Miwa Minoru , Yokoi Teruyuki , Nakayama Akira
Published: March 2008

Changes in the mechanical properties and durability of a nonwoven fabric with repeated hot-press fatiguing treatment depend on the properties of the fiber material and the structure of the nonwoven. Following Part IV, which deals with fiber fineness, in this paper we focus on punching density, which greatly affects the nonwoven struc ture, and we discuss the influence of punching density on the mechanical properties of nonwoven fabrics after hot-press fatiguing cycles. We hypothesize that a nonwoven with greater punching density will have a larger number of fibers reaching perpendic ularly across its width. This will increase fiber entanglement because more fibers will be caught by the needle. In Part IV, we found that a nonwoven fabric with more entangled fibers has a higher tensile breaking strength, so it is natural to believe that a nonwoven with a higher punching density has a higher tensile strength than one with a low punching density. The experimental results show, however, that a nonwoven with too much punching density has a lower tensile strength due to fiber breakage by too much needle punching. Thus, there is an optimum punching density that gives the highest tensile strength. Regarding compressive behavior, a nonwoven fabric with higher punching density has a small compressive strain and high compressive modulus, meaning it is stiffer. We have found that changes in tensile and compressive behaviors with hot-press fatiguing closely relate to nonwoven fiber packing factors.
Characterizing Spin Finish Layers on Polypropylene Fiber Surfaces by Means of Scanning Force Microscopy Techniques
Authors: Leijala Antti , Hautojärvi Joni
Published: March 2008

For a better understanding of the structure, distribution, and composition of spin finish layers on fiber surfaces, scanning force microscopy techniques are used to image spin finish layers on polypropylene fiber surfaces with submicrometer resolution. The polypropylene staple fibers are made into nonwovens, and common antistatic, wetting, and hydrophobizing agents are the spin finishes. Distribution and thickness profiles of the wax-like antistatic and hydrophobizing agents are successfully measured with con tact mode atomic force microscopy and lateral force microscopy. Nanometer scale measurements of local adhesion forces and elastic moduli of the spin finish layer sur faces by force modulation techniques (pulsed force mode) provide further information on the distribution and composition of the spin finish layers. In addition, the oil-like wetting agent layer, which is too soft and sticky for contact mode measurements, can be imaged with the pulsed force mode technique.
Properties of Fabrics Made from Cotton/Polyethylene Blend Yarns
Authors: Sawhney A.P.S. , Ruppenicker G.F. , Price J.B.
Published: March 2008

This paper describes the techniques used to process a rather difficult DyneemaR polyethylene staple fiber of a fine denier, and to develop, for the first time. some cotton- rich intimate-blend and bi-component yams and fabrics containing Dyneema. Basi cally, a cleaned cotton is intimately blended with Dyneema in several different blend ratios. The blends are converted into different size rovings appropriate for spinning regular intimate-blend yarns on a standard ring spinning system and comparable bi- component core-wrap yarns on the SRRC core-spinning system using the intimate- blend roving as the core material and two equivalent cotton rovings for the wrap. Yams thus produced are compared with equivalent 100% cotton (control) yarns produced conventionally. All yams are separately woven into standard duck fabrics and flame- retardant finished to determine their FR performance. Dyneema PE fiber has a low melting point of only 149°C. Results show that Dyneema fiber in an intimate blend with cotton can be processed on existing typical cotton processing equipment. A blend yarn (whether an intimate blend or a core wrap) containing as low as 10% Dyneema is much stronger than an equivalent cotton yam. Fabrics made with the blend yams are also considerably stronger and more tear resistant than the cotton equivalent. De spite Dyneema's sensitivity to high temperatures, blend fabrics containing as much as 30% Dyneema can be FR finished to provide adequate fire retardancy with greater tear strength retention compared to 100% cotton fabric.
The Interaction of Water with Fabrics
Authors: Crow Rita M. , Osczevski Randall J.
Published: March 2008

This study examines the interaction between water and a range of fabrics because of claims that synthetic fibers such as polypropylene do not pick up moisture and so when made into active wear, leave the wearer warm and dry. We have found that all fiber types, when made into fabrics, pick up water, with a strong correlation between a fabric's thickness and the amount of water it picks up freely expressed in absolute terms rather than percent of its mass. We have also found that properties relevant to clothing on an exercising person, such as drying time and energy required to evaporate water from under and through a dry fabric or dry a wet fabric, depend on the amount of water the fabric picks up, not fiber type. The amount of water wicked from one layer to another depends on pore sizes and their corresponding volumes. These results are supported by manikin and human subject experiments.
Analytical Determination of the Drying Characteristics of Carpet Tiles
Authors: Solís Carlos F. , Wepfer William J.
Published: March 2008

Carpet manufacturing involves a crucial energy-intensive drying stage at the end of the process to remove the moisture left from dye setting. Determining drying charac teristics for carpet tiles, such as temperature levels, transition times, total drying times, and evaporation rates, is vitally important so as to optimize this drying stage. This paper describes a way to determine the drying characteristics of foam-backed carpet tiles using experimental data along with analytical data generated by a computer pro gram developed for this purpose. The computer model is simplified by using a lumped capacitance assumption, neglecting internal conduction within each layer. The data are later collected in profiles versus time, where the transition point is identified at the point where the mass versus time profile changes slope. Similarly, the total drying time is identified at the point where this profile flattens. A decrease in the initial moisture and an increase in the oven temperature predict a decrease in the total drying time, simulating the experimental results. Both the modeling results and results from the parametric study provide a better understanding of the drying mechanisms and lead to a series of important recommendations for carpet drying optimization.
A Poisson Model of Nonwoven Fiber Assemblies in Compression at High Stress
Authors: Schoppee Meredith M.
Published: March 2008

A new model has been developed that predicts the compression behavior of thick. nonwoven fiber assemblies at high stress levels. The model uses the Poisson distribution to describe how fibers are stacked on top of one another during web formation. The stress/thickness relationships developed are based solely on the compression properties of the stacked fiber mass. Effects predicted by the model include greater packing uni formity for increasing web weight, decreasing fiber diameter. and decreasing fiber transverse compression modulus. An expression for the fractional area of a compressed web that is actually under stress is also given. The stress/thickness behavior predicted by the model is compared to the measured compression characteristics of nylon. Spec tra®, Kevlar®, and fiberglass needled batts. The measured and predicted behavior agree well enough in most cases to validate both the Poisson distribution approach to the placement of fiber mass in randomly formed nonwoven materials and the simple com pressive stress relationships developed from it.
An Improved Capstan Equation for Nonflexible Fibers and Yarns
Authors: Wei M. , Rongjuan Chen
Published: March 2008

An approximate theoretical analysis of the tension increase for nonflexible fibers and yams passing around a peg is presented, yielding a convenient, improved capstan equation. The formulas include the influence of fiber and yarn bending behavior on the tension increase, and they correct the capstan equation for outgoing tension T2 when the incoming tension T1 is zero. The formulas are especially useful for relatively rigid fibers and yams.
Dyeing Characteristics of Acala Cotton Seed Fibers
Authors: Thompson J.A. , Hsieh Y.-L.
Published: March 2008

The dyeing characteristics of fibers from three Acala cotton varieties, i.e., Maxxa, SJ-2, and SJC-9, are investigated using direct and reactive dyestuffs along with the Goldthwait cotton maturity test. Dyed and less-dyed fibers are detached from the dyed seed fibers, separated, and characterized by seed fiber weight, single fiber strength, and color measurement. With Direct Blue 1, SJC-9 fibers are dyed to the darkest shade across all seed fiber weights, whereas the Maxxa fibers have the lightest shade. The SJC-9 seed fibers have the least amounts ( ~5%) of less-dyed fibers and the proportions of such fibers are independent of seed fiber weights. For the Maxxa and SJ-2 varieties, the proportions of less-dyed fibers decrease with increasing seed fiber weights. The proportions of less-dyed Maxxa and SJ-2 fibers are above 30% on seed fibers weighing less than 100 mg and are 10% or less on seeds weighing more than 150 mg. The SJ- 2 seed fibers contain higher proportions of less-dyed fibers, but their overall shades are deeper than the Maxxa fibers. For all three varieties, most less-dyed fibers are from the chalazal ends of the seeds of all seed fiber weights. Dyeing with Reactive Blue 19 results in the same proportions of less-dyed fibers on the Maxxa seed fibers as with Direct Blue 1. The Goldthwait cotton maturity test confirms the trend of decreasing amounts of less-dyed fibers with increasing seed fiber weight with both direct and reactive dyes. For all three varieties, the force to break is higher for the dyed fibers than the less-dyed fibers, confirming that less-dyed fibers have less developed cell wall structures.
Durable Water-Repellent Cotton Fabrics Prepared by Low-Degree Substitution of Long Chain Alkyl Groups
Authors: Sawatari Chie , Sekiguchi Yuka , Yagi Tatsuhiko
Published: March 2008

Three kinds of water-repellent cotton fabrics, A, B, and C-, are produced by alkylation with only 0.07 alkyl units per glucose unit. Sample A is prepared by alkylation by means of acetylation without mercerization, B is by direct alkylation after merceriza tion, and C is by alkylation by means of allylation and bromination. The merits of the methods are compared by contact angle measurements and spray tests after repeated laundry cycles. Sufficient water-repellency is attained with an alkyl length of over C12. These samples retain a fabric hand, water-vapor permeability, and biodegradability similar to those of untreated cellulose fabric. The end-use properties of alkylated fabrics before and after laundering are also tested.
Structural Effects on Flax Stems of Three Potential Retting Fungi
Authors: Akin D.E. , Rigsby Luanne L. , Henriksson G. , Eriksson K.-E.L.
Published: March 2008

Rhizomucor pusillus and Fusarium lateritium, isolated from flax dew-retted in South Carolina, and Epicoccum nigrum, isolated from flax dew-retted in the Netherlands, are evaluated for structural modifications of various cells in their flax stems, particularly the effects on fiber walls and bundles as related to retting. All fungi are effective in degrading parenchyma tissues and isolating fibers, but F. lateritium and particularly E. nigrum also degrade the fiber cell walls, including the secondary layers, indicating the potential for over-retting and reduced fiber strength. In contrast, R. pusillus does not appear to attack the main portion of the secondary wall, but degrades the most central portion of the fiber wall, thus expanding the fiber lumen. Extracellular enzymes pro duced by this fungus appear to effectively degrade the middle lamellae, separating bundles into fibers. The lignified walls of the core cells are partially degraded by F. lateritium but not by R. pusillus or E. nigrum. R. pusillus and E. nigrum appear to partially degrade or alter the cuticular surface of the stem, possibly facilitating hyphal penetration to the internal tissues. These observations of structural alterations indicate that R. pusillus possesses the best retting abilities. Results are interpreted in light of previous information on the enzymatic profile of these fungi.
On-Line Measurement of Fabric Bending Behavior
Authors: Naiyue Zhou  , Ghosh T.K.
Published: March 2008

A generalized fabric bending model is developed based on the nonlinear bending moment-curvature relationship of fabrics. This model makes it possible to theoretically investigate the effects of fabric nonlinear bending behavior on measured bending prop erty values. The dependence of measured parameters (e.g., bending length, bending rigidity) on the conditions for the cantilever and heart loop, loop 3, and loop 4 tests is determined theoretically. Calculated results show good agreement with experimental observations reported in the literature for the cantilever and heart loop. An important discovery in this investigation is that the bending length values calculated and measured from loop 3 and loop 4 are not influenced by fabric sample length if that length is beyond a certain critical value.
Studies of Webbings Under Multiaxial Dynamic Loading
Authors: Taipalus Rtta , Järvelä Pentti
Published: March 2008

The aim of the project is to study the bending fatigue properties of one kind of webbing under multiaxial dynamic loading in order to determine its maximum dura bility and longest useful lifetime. The study uses a dynamic fatiguing test machine, and the varying test parameters are camber radius and pulley diameter, the safety factor of the webbing, and bending frequency. The influence of the different test parameters on the final temperature of the webbing is also considered. In addition to the bending fatigue properties, another object of the study is to determine the residual strength of the webbing after increased bendings and for different safety factors. Pulley diameter and safety factors have the most important influence on the long-term reliability of webbing. By using big pulleys and high safety factors, the final temperature of the webbing is held at a low level due to insignificant movement of the fibers and yams in the webbing (low friction).
Single-Step Dyeing and Formaldehyde-Free Durable Press Finishing of Cotton Fabric
Authors: Raheel Mastura , Chen Guo
Published: March 2008

Single-step dyeing in conjunction with formaldehyde-free durable press finishing of cotton textiles is discussed. The efficacy of polycarboxylic acids (BTCA and CA) as crosslinkers when used individually and as mixtures of various ratios in conjunction with direct dyes is investigated. Wrinkle recovery and dye fixation levels are compared with the conventional two-step dyeing and finishing process. Effects of additives on dye fixation and wrinkle recovery also are addressed.
Optimizing a Wool Dyeing Process with an Azoic 1:2 Metal Complex Dye Using Commercially Available Liposomes
Authors: De la Maza A. , Coderch L. , Manich A.M. , Marti M. , Parra J.L. , Serra S.
Published: March 2008

We investigate the application of a commercially available phosphatidylcholine li posome suspension of defined size (about 100 nm) as a carrier for the azoic metal complex 1:2 dye Lanaset Yellow 2R to untreated wool fibers at the pilot plant level. To explore the influence of the experimental conditions on the dyeing process and on dyed yarn properties, we use a Box and Behnken factorial design for three variables. From this optimization study, we conclude that commercially available liposomes are suitable for dyeing wool at lower temperatures and shorter times than those needed in conventional industrial wool dyeing. Thus, wool may be dyed at 80°C using liposomes at 1 -2% owf with satisfactory dye exhaustion and fixation levels and good mechanical properties and handle. The main novelty of this procedure is the use of commercial liposomes as a simple dyebath additive. Increasing liposome concentrations in the dyebath improve dye exhaustion on the fibers at high temperatures, but dye fixation at these temperatures is independent of liposome concentration. depending instead on dye concentration. Liposomes also improve the leveling effect of the dye compared to that with conventional auxiliaries in all cases. Although liposome concentration does not significantly affect yarn mechanical properties, there is an optimal liposome concen tration that improves handle (yarn-to-yarn friction ).
Tension Variations During Cone Winding on an Open-End Spinning System
Authors: Babaarslan Osman , Iype Cherian
Published: March 2008

The two main criteria for successful high speed yam winding with no yarn failure are maintaining yarn tension variations at a level sufficiently high to achieve package stability while at the same time keeping tension fluctuations to a minimum. Their importance arises from the fact that uneven tension causes uneven package density. which in turn results in unevenness in subsequent technological processes such as dyeing, knitting, weaving, etc. Therefore, to manufacture a package with acceptable quality features such as stability, constant density, constant package stiffness, etc., the yarn winding tension must be controlled during winding operations.
Characterizing Textile Fiber Surfaces with Streaming Potential Measurements
Authors: Ribitsch V. , Stana-Kleinscheck K.
Published: March 2008

A method and an. instrument are described to measure the electrokinetic potential of textile materials, either fibers or fabrics. Based on the established principles of stream ing potential/current and using specially designed measuring cells, the zeta potential of a textile material is calculated by two methods. Examples of measurements are presented to demonstrate the straightforward use of the instrument for investigating the influence of different process steps on surface charges and adsorption properties ( i.e., interaction with different process compounds) during textile finishing processes.
Cross-Sectional Structure of Composite Yarns
Authors: Su Ching-Iuan , Leu Ching-Shyang
Published: March 2008

This work investigates the effect of spinning conditions such as traveller, twist multiplier, and front top roller pressure and hardness on the cross-sectional structure of 19.7 tex T/R composite yarns. A traveller of #1 /0, a TM of 2.8, and a front top roller pressure of 18 kg and hardness of 70° are the optimum spinning conditions. This combination results in the best mixing of spread polyester filaments and drafting rayon fibers in the nip of the front rollers, arranged in the best dispersion to form a T/R composite yarn with better quality and good blend uniformity. The results reveal that the 61.5% asymmetrically sided type is the predominant cross-sectional structure of T/R composite yams. However, the fraction of the uniform distribution type increases from 10.0 to 24.5%. indicating that the blend uniformity of T/R composite yams improves remarkably.
Flame Retardation of Cellulosic Fibers as Characterized by Thermal Degradation Behavior
Authors: Nakanishi Shigeko , Hashimoto Toshimasa
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabric, one of the most flammable materials, is treated with various com pounds containing nitrogen, phosphorus, sulfur, halogens, and boron, individually or in combinations of two components, for a study of flame retardation from the standpoint of thermal decomposition. These samples are subjected to thermogravimetry and ther mal analysis to determine if there is any characteristic difference in the thermal deg radation behavior of flame retardant and untreated samples. The results show that flam mable samples ignite immediately or soon after the onset of thermal degradation, before the degradation rate reaches the maximum point, whereas flame retardant samples ignite considerably above the thermal degradation onset point, after the thermal degradation rate reaches the maximum. The flame retardant samples exhibit characteristic differ ences in thermal degradation behavior compared with those of combustible samples.
Effect of Low Temperature Plasma, Chlorination, and Polymer Treatments and Their Combinations on the Properties of Wool Fibers
Authors: Kan C.W. , Chan K. , Yuen C.W.M. , Miao M.H.
Published: March 2008

In this study, wool fibers are treated with low temperature plasma, chlorination, polymer deposition, and their combinations. The treatments are classified into four categories for easy discussion. After the treatments, the surface properties in term of feltability, fiber damage, and dyeability are assessed and quantitatively discussed, and the relationships between the different properties are statistically assessed.
Evaluating Staple Fiber Processing Propensity
Authors: El Mogahzy Yehia , Broughton Roy , Hong Guo  , Taylor R.A.
Published: March 2008

In this study, we present a novel approach to simulate and characterize the behavior of fibers during processing using a modified version of the familiar rotor ring system. With this modification, we attempt to create an area approximately resembling the carding zone and measure the energy required to shear the fibers in this area. We then use the energy readings to provide an index of fiber processing propensity. Such an index is believed to be a function of combined fiber cohesion and fiber resiliency. In addition to the rotor ring, we present corresponding results from other independent techniques such as NIR wax analysis and sliver cohesion. The most important finding of this part of the study is that deterioration in the quality of yarns and fabrics should not be rationalized only on the basis of standard fiber properties (such as length, fine ness, and strength) and that measures of processing propensity, wax content, and sur face cohesion provide a complete picture of fiber processibility and its impact on end product quality.
Mechanical Strength of Durable Press Finished Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Kang In-Sook , Yang Charles Q. , Weishu Wei  , Lickfield Gary C.
Published: March 2008

Severe tensile strength loss is the major disadvantage of durable press finished cotton fabrics. Such strength losses have been attributed to two main factors: acid-catalyzed depolymerization and crosslinking of cellulose molecules. In this research, we inves tigate the effects of acid degradation and cellulose crosslinking on the tensile strength of cotton fabric crosslinked by polycarboxylic acids. Multifunctional carboxylic acids such as butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) are used as nonformaldehyde crosslinking agents for cotton fabrics. The strength loss caused by acid degradation is an irreversible process, and the magnitude of the loss is determined by the curing temperature and time, the dissociation constants of the acid, and the concentration and pH of the acid solution applied to the fabric. Crosslinking of cellulose molecules by a polycarboxylic acid causes a reversible fabric strength loss, which increases as the degree of crosslink ing increases. The magnitude of tensile strength loss caused by acid degradation and that by crosslinking for cotton fabrics treated with BTCA is measured. Losses caused by crosslinking can be restored after the ester crosslinking is hydrolyzed under alkaline conditions.
Nep Structure Identification and Analysis Using Image Processing Methods
Authors: Iype C. , Wan T.R.
Published: March 2008

This paper presents a new approach to nep identification and analysis based on image processing methods. A new edge detection method entailing local contrast analysis. which is insensitive to noise, is used to identify neps. The structure of a nep is regarded as consisting of a number of nep elements. Methods for nep element searching, iden tification, and merging are developed. Three nep element distributions are obtained, and these provide detailed information about nep structures. Experimental studies in volve this new technique to investigate the effects of various processing conditions on the incidence of neps in fiber assemblies produced during top manufacture. A com parative study of the new method and the conventional simple threshold method for nep structure identification is also included.
Tensile and Uniaxial Fatigue Behavior of Poly (p-Phenylene-co-3,4'- Oxydiphenylene Terephthalamide) Fibers: Relationship with Chain Orientation
Authors: Ferreira M. , Lam T.M. , Labache P. , Delvael Y.
Published: March 2008

This paper investigates the physical properties of poly( p-phenylene-co-3,4'-oxy diphenylene terephthalamide) [P pPOT] fibers in comparison with poly (p-phenylene terephthalamide ) (PPTA) fibers. With regard to tensile responses, the two fibers show nearly the same elastic deformation with significant modulus increase during extension. However, they form a singular contrast when it comes to tensile-tensile fatigue behav ior. The modulus decreases quite rapidly after some increase for PPTA, while the de crease is much slower for P pPOT. These observations are interpreted in correlation with the chain and crystallite movements of the polymers under load, and the influence of hydrogen bonds on slipping is also compared.
A Three-Dimensional Analysis of Specular Reflection from Single-Jersey Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Tao X. , Asemlert A. Sirik
Published: March 2008

This paper presents a mathematical model for calculating specular reflection of sin gle-jersey knitted fabrics using a three-dimensional analysis. A computer simulation program based on the model is developed to generate goniophotometric curves using Cartesian coordinates and Euler angles derived from the geometry of a knitted loop. Two correction factors are introduced by taking into consideration the sensor and sam ple geometry. The theoretical work is verified with a black monofilament yam with nine different values of tilted and rotated angles and two black single-jersey knitted fabrics made from monofilament yams. There is good agreement between the simulated and measured curves for both cases.
Automatic Recognition of Fabric Weave Patterns by Digital Image Analysis
Authors: Tae Jin Kang  , Chang Hoon Kim  , Kyung Wha Oh
Published: March 2008

By using computer image processing and analysis, a system to detect both weave patterns and yarn color designs is developed in this study. The image of a woven fabric is captured by a Hitachi color CCD camera and converted into digital data by a Targa+32 board. Two images—transmitted and reflected—are used to detect weave patterns. From the transmitted images, warp and weft cross points and the sizes of the yarns are determined by analyzing gray value changes in both horizontal and vertical directions. Then the warp and weft crossed states are determined by analyzing the normalized aspect ratio of an ellipse-shaped image at crossed points of the fabric. Furthermore, from reflected images, the total number of yarn colors and their arrangements in the fabric are determined. An HSV color model differentiates or groups similar yarn colors. Consequently, the system allows the weave pattern, either colored or solid, and the color design of a fabric to be correctly recognized.
Thermal Decomposition Behavior of Polyester Fabrics Treated with a Bromine-Containing Compound
Authors: Kubokawa H. , Tsunesada T. , Hatakeyama T.
Published: March 2008

The thermal decomposition behavior of poly ( ethylene terephthalate) (PET) fabrics containing meso-1,2,3,4-tetrabromobutane (TBB) is investigated using thermogra vimetry (TG), differential thermal analysis (DTA), and pyrolysis gas chromatography- mass spectrometry (Py-GC-MS). Isothermal TG analysis proves that the presence of TBB has little effect on the thermal decomposition of PET. However, isothermal DTA data reveal that the absorbed TBB participates in some reactions in the condensed phase of PET. On the other hand, Py-GC-MS analysis reveals that bromine atoms exist in the thermal decomposition products of PET. Thus, vinyl groups are generated from PET by β-CH hydrogen transfer, and they then react with hydrogen bromide, which is produced by TBB, to form bromine-containing thermal decomposition products. These facts show why TBB molecules, which have strong affinities for PET segments, are effective for Hame retardation.
Image Analysis Tools to Study Nonwovens
Authors: Thorr F. , Drean J.Y. , Adolphe D.
Published: March 2008

A device composed of a mechanical dynamometer and optical sensor coupled with image analysis software is designed to provide powerful tools to study the evolution of the nonwoven structure under stress. Images of the samples are recorded before undergoing mathematical analysis, and various parameters are calculated. The evolu tion of these parameters provides original information on the mechanical behavior of complex nonwoven materials.
Dynamic Moisture Vapor Transfer Through Textiles
Authors: Kim J.O.
Published: March 2008

This study investigates the influence of semipermeable functional films on the sur face vapor pressure and temperature of fabric-film-fabric assemblies. The film added between two fabric layers affects vapor pressure and temperature changes on both surfaces of the assembly under simulated body-clothing conditions. The physical char acteristics of films greatly influence the level of transient, comfort-related variables such as changes of inner surface vapor pressure and temperature. Mixed cotton and polyester layers of a film reveal that the film can negatively affect moisture sorption of the assembly, not only by blocking the air spaces for moisture diffusion, but more importantly, by ineffective heat dissipation from the cotton inner fabric for continued moisture sorption. Using film and fabric assemblies, this study reinforces the interde pendence of moisture sorption and temperature barrier effects during dynamic moisture transfer through clothing assemblies. Fiber hygroscopicity of the layered fabrics and physical properties of breathable waterproof film are more important than the hygro scopicity of film in determining comfort performance of multilayer functional clothing in transient conditions.
A New Objective Method of Measuring Fabric Wrinkles Using a 3-D Projecting Grid Technique
Authors: Tae Jin Kang  , Dae Hwan Cho  , Hyun Suk Whang
Published: March 2008

A new objective method for evaluating fabric wrinkles involves a 3-D projecting grid technique based on image processing. The uniform grid is projected on the AATCC replica surface, and then the gridded image of each replica is captured by the image capturing system. Noise reduction and extraction of the horizontal features of the image by enhancement and horizontal filters follow, and finally the projected grid phase is analyzed. The 3-D shape of the wrinkling of each replica is reconstructed with the data calculated from the deformation of grid lines obtained from the image capturing system. Based on the reconstructed 3-D information of each replicate, the degree of wrinkling is quantified using parameters that describe the quantity of fabric wrinkling: roughness ratio, surface area ratio, wrinkle density, and power spectrum density of the fast Fourier transform. Results indicate that the grades of AATCC wrinkle recovery replicas show a good logarithmic relationship with the parameters defined in this study. The precise and reliable wrinkle grades of four colored and complicated fabric patterns are obtained by usmg the wrinkle grading equation through multiple regression of four parameters.
Dye-Surfactant Interactions Studied Using Job's Method
Authors: Tavčer Petra Forte , Špan Jože
Published: March 2008

Interactions between the anionic dye Acid Orange 7 and two cationic surfactants N- cetylpyridinium chloride (CPC1) and cetyltrimethylammonium bromide (CTMABr) in aqueous solutions far below the CMC are studied using the method of continuous variations, also called Job's method. Light absorbance in the visible spectral range is measured. Both surfactants form stable associates with the acid dye. Job's method is suitable for determining the stoichiometric composition and equilibrium association constants of the associates studied. The molar binding ratio of both surfactant/dye associates is 1:1. The calculated equilibrium constants are high (about 106), indicating strong interactions. From the constants calculated at different temperatures ( 15, 25, and 35°C), the corresponding thermodynamic functions Δ G 0, Δ H0, and Δ S0 are ob tained. We have concluded that strong interactions between cationic surfactants and anionic dyes are the result of attractions between oppositely charged ions combined with hydrophobic and dispersive forces.
Dimensional Changes in Knitted Silk and Cotton Fabrics with Laundering
Authors: Quaynor Leticia , Nakajima Masaru , Takahashi Masaoki
Published: March 2008

Deformation by laundering is investigated for single jersey and 1 × 1 rib flat knit silk and cotton fabrics with yams of varying linear densities and fabric tightness. The fabrics are subjected to relaxation processes and an extended series of wash and tumble- dry cycles. Changes in dimensions are measured in every process and cycle. Statistical analyses of the experimental data reveal the effect of yam type as well as linear density and tightness factor on the linear and area shrinkage behavior of silk as compared to cotton. Cotton shrinks more than silk, and silk rib knits stretch excessively in width. Silk attains full relaxation after one laundering cycle. Microscopic views reveal the appearance of ball-like formations along silk fibers after repeated laundering. It is possible to predict fabric dimensional changes with wet relaxation as well as with laundering, especially in silk.
Evaluating Fibrous Architecture of Nonwovens with Computer-Assisted Microscopy 1
Authors: Krucinska I. , Krucinski S.
Published: March 2008

A new computerized imaging, circular polarized light microscopy technique is de veloped to measure the orientation of fibers in images of nonwovens. The system consists of a modified Olympus BX50 polarized microscope, a Sony AVC-D7 video camera, and a Silicon Graphics Indy computer. There are two methods of image seg mentation : Gaussian distribution' based minimum error thresholding and Poisson dis tribution based minimum error thresholding. Segments of fiber midlines are traced with vertical and horizontal scanlines or, alternatively, whole midlines are identified recur sively with the Hilditch technique. The fiber midlines produced with this technique are traversed by a midline traversal algorithm, and the orientation distribution is obtained by least squares line fitting. The accuracy of the technique is evaluated against synthetic images composed of straight lines and sinuous curves. Kupier's statistic is used to evaluate the consistency of the fiber orientation calculations. A statistical analysis of the results shows that the proposed Hilditch connectivity, which preserves skeletoni zation, produces the most accurate results.
Assessing Yarn Structure with Image Analysis Methods1
Authors: Cybulska Maria
Published: March 2008

This paper presents a system for assessing yarn structure. Image analysis techniques and mathematical methods are used to develop the method of estimating basic structural parameters of yarn thickness, hairiness, and twist. The method provides numerical characteristics of the structure at each point of the yam length. It also provides mean values and irregularity measures of structural parameters for the whole section of the yarn that is analyzed.
Graft Copolymerization of Polyester Fibers with a Fluorine-Containing Monomer
Authors: Louati M. , Elachari A. , Ghenaim A. , Caze C.
Published: March 2008

Polyester monofilaments are grafted with perfluorooctyl-2 ethanol acrylic monomer (AC8) (C 8F17—C2H4—O—CO—CH=CH 2) to improve water and oil repellency and chemical and thermal stability and to enhance adhesion with a fluor matrix. Kinetic parameters like the percent grafting and grafting rate are measured as a function of monomer concentration, initiator concentration, and time and temperature of the re action. The results show that the optimum graft yield is obtained for a monomer con centration of 1.125 moles/liter and for an initiator concentration of 1.8 10-2 moles/ liter. The impact of the graft modification is characterized by crystallinity and surface topography.
Yarn Quality Indexing Using a Mechanical Stylus
Authors: Peykamian Shahram , Rust Jon P.
Published: March 2008

Fabric hand, an important characteristic to the textile industry, is influenced by such fiber parameters as flexural rigidity and friction and by yarn parameters such as count, twist, CV%, hairiness, stiffness, and softness. This study deals primarily with predicting the softness of knitted T-shirts from yarn quality parameters. The work consists of a short literature review on the existing yam parameters as well as fabric hand evaluation and prediction techniques. The latest developments in measuring the roughness of textile material surfaces are, also covered. Using the surface profile as tested by the mechanical stylus surface analyzer (MSSA), developed at North Carolina State Uni versity, a novel yarn surface analysis parameter called the "surface response average" (SRA) is developed, along with a model for the fiber/stylus tip interaction. Ten T-shirts produced from ten different yarn samples are ranked based on their softness by a panel of judges. The yams used to make these T-shirts are tested by Uster III and MSSA, and standard roughness parameters are calculated. The results show no significant corre lation between standard roughness parameters and fabric softness. The correlation be tween hand and SRA is about -0.6, which suggests that a higher SRA corresponds to a softer fabric.
Noncontact Measurements of Sanding and Raising Effects
Authors: Bueno Marie-Ange , Durand Bernard , Renner Marc
Published: March 2008

The method presented in this paper pertains to an optical roughness meter that considers a fabric in all surface directions. A previous paper presented a tribological method for investigating textile fabrics, which used a roughness meter with a contact between the probe and the surface. However, a contact is not always acceptable, and sometimes a noncontact method is better. Thus, an optical multidirectional roughness meter with the same signal processing and sample movement of the earlier apparatus has been developed. The principle is to consider the reflection of a laser beam by a fabric. The reflected ray is converted into an electrical signal with a photomultiplier, and this signal is subjected to Fourier analysis. The power spectral density versus frequency presents some peaks that reveal the basic directions of the fabric structure, the function of the weave or knit, and the fabric density. The height of these frequency peaks decreases after sanding or raising, thus characterizing the state of the fabric surface.
Fabric Bagging
Authors: Zhang X. , Li Y. , Yeung K.W. , Yao M.
Published: March 2008

Part I of this series reports on the psychophysical relationship between the subjective perception of bagging and the residual bagging height. Subjective perception is mainly influenced by residual bagging height, accounting for 94% of all variations. In Part II, we investigate the physical mechanism of fabric bagging by developing an equation to describe the fatigue process as decreasing fabric internal energy. On the basis of the equation, we identify three fundamental mechanical parameters (elastic energy U, vis coelastic-frictional energy Qo, and its decay rate δ) and develop a procedure for objec tively evaluating fabric bagging using the Instron tension machine. For practical use, we select two criteria (bagging fatigue F fatig and bagging resistance Fresist) to characterize bagging behavior. As the physical stimulus to subjective perception of bagging, fabric bagging residual height depends on these mechanical parameters. Further, subjective ratings on bagging are predictable from the two criteria selected (bagging fatigue and resistance) and from the three parameters (elastic energy U, viscoelastic-frictional energy Qo, and its decay rate 8) describing the bagging fatigue process.
Evaluating Uniformity of Drafted Roving
Authors: Su Ching-Iuan
Published: March 2008

This study discusses the evaluation of roving uniformity (U%) of fine denier polyester and rayon fibers after drafting in the break draft zone. A new method is presented for determining a suitable draft ratio of break draft in spinning to obtain the best yarn quality using the technique of drafted roving uniformity. The fundamental relationships between drafting conditions (such as draft ratio and roller gauge) and uniformity (U%) of the drafted roving have the same trend as drafting force. Base on the correlation of drafted roving uniformity and yarn properties, a drafting ratio corresponding to a lower U% can be chosen as the suitable break draft in spinning to obtain the best yarn quality. The results reveal that the techniques of drafted roving U% and drafting force provide nearly identical results.
The Carrier Effect in the m-Aramid Fiber/Cationic Dye/Benzyl Alcohol System
Authors: Nechwatal Axel , Rossbach Volker
Published: March 2008

Studies with benzyl alcohol and other substances (acetophenone, dimethylacetamide, dimethylsulfoxide) interacting with poly( m-phenylene isophthalamide) fibers have shown that the carrier effect in the dyeing process takes place through a balanced combination of several factors. For a substance acting as a carrier, the distribution equilibrium must be on the side of the fiber. This is the case if the substance has only a limited hydrophilicity, indicated by a low solubility of the carrier in the dyeing liquor. In order to be effective, it is not sufficient that the sorption of the carrier takes place only in the interior of the fiber; it must also take place on the fiber surface. If the carrier layer on the fiber surface is removed, the dye uptake rate decreases. An optimal carrier effect is accompanied by an increase in the degree of crystallinity and changes in the mechanical properties (decreased tensile strength and elongation at break, as well as increased Young's modulus). When combined with the carrier substance, water is also able to enhance the dye uptake rate (co-carrier). Electrolytes do not influence the sorption of carrier.