bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
The Solubility Tèsts on Wool as Related With the Lanthionine and Lysinoalanine Content
Authors: Asquith R.S. , Miro P. , Dominguez J. J. Garcia
Published: March 2007

The present work indicates that by the use of the urea-bisulfite solubility test plus the keratose fractionation test and the fractionation into kerateines it is possible to differentiate between treated wool samples which contain either lanthionine or lanthionine plus lysinoalanine.
Variations in a Delayed-Curing Cotton Via Internal Catalysis of Reaction With Divinyl Sulfone
Authors: Rowland Stanley P. , Brannan Mary Ann F.
Published: March 2007

Cotton cellulose fabrics containing quaternary ammonium hydroxide groups at three levels of substitution were prepared directly from reaction of print cloth with 3-chloro- 2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride or with glycidyltrimethylammonium chlo ride. The reactions involved sodium hydroxide solutions of mecerizing strength. The chemically-modified fabrics were characterized for primary physical performance proper ties and for self-catalyzed reactions with divinyl sulfone and bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) sul fone. The results extend information already reported for unmercerized cotton cellulose containing quaternary ammonium hydroxide groups generated by quaternization of 2-diethylaminoethyl substituents. The nature of the quaternary ammonium substituent and the mercerized or unmercerized state of the cotton fibers are shown to have a bearing on the efficiency of this self-catalyzed reaction and on the wrinkle recovery angles and other properties developed in the products.
Fibrous Chlorodeoxycellulose Yarn
Authors: Vigo Tyrone L. , Welch Clark M.
Published: March 2007

Fibrous chlorodeoxycellulose with a D.S. as high as 0.3 can be prepared by reacting alkali-activated cotton yarns with thionyl chloride in dimethylformamide at room temperature. The resultant yarns possess the same tensile strength as untreated yarn and increased rot resistance. The chlorodeoxycellulose yarns can be converted into new fibrous cellulose thioethers, such as carboxymethylthiocellulose (Cell-S-CH 2- COOH). The yarns can also be converted into cross-linked diaminodeoxycelluloses by reaction with primary aliphatic diamines.
Internal Architecture of Potato and Canna Starch
Authors: Hall David M. , Sayre Joseph G.
Published: March 2007

Some details of the internal architecture of potato and canna starches were obtained from uniformly crushed granules. The growth appears to' be principally by intus susception and proceeds along a hilum canal toward the periphery of the granules. The presence of a cavity and hilum canal in potato starch granules is used to explain some swelling phenomena such as bubble formation and invagination. Some evidence of a membrane encasing potato and canna starches is cited. The internal details of wrinkled-pea starch were also studied; the expected shell-type layering was found with this starch and the growth is apparently by apposition.
Effect of Laundering and Starching on Insulation and Vapor Permeability of Standard Fatigues
Authors: Levell C.A. , Breckenridge J.R. , Goldman R.F.
Published: March 2007

An electrically heated copper manikin with a wettable "skin" has been used to assess the effect of laundering and starching on the insulating value and evaporative heat transfer characteristics of a new, unused U. S. Army fatigue uniform. Except for small changes attributable to shrinkage of the clothing items, machine washing with detergents or commercial laundering with soap, followed by medium heavy starching and pressing, had no effect on the insulation value or moisture permeability index of the uniform. The effect of starching and pressing was also studied on volunteer subjects performing a rest-walk-rest routine in a hot humid environment. Based on body heat storage during the period, heat stress was unaffected by starching the uniform. This study, which included three other types of uniforms, also provided evidence that the level of heat stress in a given uniform is directly related with the ratio of the permeability index to the insulating value for the uniform as measured on the "sweating" copper manikin.
A Study of the Ultraviolet Yellowing of Amino Acids, Peptides, and Soluble Proteins
Authors: Asquith R.S. , Hirst L. , Rivett D.E.
Published: March 2007

A number of amino acids in solution have been irradiated by ultraviolet light and the rate of yellowing measured. With the exception of cystine, the production of color depends on the presence of oxygen, while the decomposition of the amino acid takes place even in the absence of oxygen, although at a slower rate. Cystine produces color both in the presence and absence of oxygen. A number of ultraviolet-absorbing soluble proteins were found to "yellow" on irradiation even in the absence of oxygen. Based on the amino acid composition, it is postulated that the sulfur-containing amino acids plus tryptophan are responsible for the color produced. The degree of coloration cannot be correlated with any single amino acid.
Vapor-Phase Deposition of Surface Polymers and Cross-Linking on Cotton Fabrics 1
Authors: Brenner W. , Rugg B. , Liu W.
Published: March 2007

Vapor-phase deposition of selected polymers on cotton fibers offers certain potentially attractive characteristics over conventional liquid-phase textile processing. These include uniformity and completeness of coverage at low add-on's in the absence of solvents, lower reaction temperatures and/or shorter exposure times, and use of reactants normally sensitive to water and solvents, all or some of which may result in a more favorable balance of the performance properties of such polymer-coated cottons.

High molecular-weight polyoxymethylene polymer deposits were obtained by the immersion of cotton fabrics in a suit able alkaline catayst solution at ambient temperatures and in air, followed by exposure of the catalyzed cloths to purified monomeric formaldehyde vapor. Polyamide polymer deposits were realized by modified interfacial polymerization tech niques, also under mild reaction conditions. The properties of these polymer-coated cotton fabrics were determined over a range of polymer add-on's, with emphasis on the effects of treatments with various cross-linking agents. Both methylo lamide-treated, polyoxymethylene-coated and diisocyanate-treated polyamide-coated cotton fabrics were found to exhibit significant improvements in wrinkle recovery and other performance properties with superior strength retention at re latively low polymer add-on's, compared to conventionally cross-linked fabrics.
Morphology of Secondary Wall Fibrils in Cotton
Authors: Peterlin A. , Ingram P.
Published: March 2007

The secondary wall of cotton fiber contains well aligned helical macrofibrils of about 1000 Å diameter, changing sign in irregular intervals. The sign reversals are in some respect cross sections of enhanced mechanical strength, particularly in respect to swelling. The macrofibrils are composed of a great many microfibrils of varying width, which, as a rule, seem to be narrow, ribbon-like lamellae consisting of one single layer of elementary fibrils. The former have lateral dimensions of about 200 Å, the latter of about 50 Å, as may be derived from electron micrographs of stained samples. The mechan ical deformation of such a system of helices involves a relatively large amount of sliding motion of every single helix down to the smallest independent element which may be the microfibril or some larger agglomerate, e.g., the macrofibril. Surface forces between adjacent helices reduce the capability for sliding and, therefore, enhance the rigidity, elastic mod ulus, shape retention, and brittleness of the cotton fiber.

From the absence of an equatorial small-angle, x-ray scattering maximum, one concludes that the lateral dimensions of elementary fibrils must appreciably vary in the cotton fiber, in spite of the fact that on single micrographs their thickness and packing seem rather uniform. In the longitudinal direction, the crystalline core exhibits some interruptions and the quasiamorphous boundary layers between adjacent elementary fibrils exhibit a great many interruptions at irregular intervals. If this is not an artifact, it can be interpreted as an occasional lateral extension of the less ordered material beyond the boundary layer, thus interrupting the crystal lattice of the fibril, and as crystalline bridges by which the fibrils laterally coalesce. The coalescence is favored in the (101) surfaces containing more hydrogen bridges per unit area than the (101) planes, thus producing single-layered lamellae of the microfibrils. Dark-field electron microscopy further re veals a finite extension of equally oriented crystal lattice blocks. The subsequent blocks in the fibril axis seem to have the same orientation of molecular chain axis, but are mismatched in the perpendicular direction. The corresponding screw dislocation planes between consecutive blocks seem to be less permeable to swelling agents than the quasiamor phous layers between the fibrils.
Synthesis of Methylol Fatty Alkyl Carbamates and Their Applications to Cotton
Authors: Bajaj P. , Sattur N.B. , Chipalkatti V.B.
Published: March 2007

Work on the idea of built-in lubrication has been extended to methylol fatty alkyl carbamates having structural similari ties with stearoyl ester of 1,3-dichloropropanol-2. A study of the conditions of methylolation of the fatty alkyl carbamates, their isolation, and characterization by ir spectra and nitrogen and formaldehyde contents leads to the conclusion that the isolated methylol derivatives exist as mixtures of mono-and dimethylol carbamate, the greater the alkyl substituent in the carbamate moiety, the greater is the formation of the monomethylol derivative.

Reactivity of these methytol carbamates with cellulose in the collapsed state is poor, but is improved in the presence of free formaldehyde or formaldehyde donors such as acetals.

Cotton fabric treated with methylol derivatives of octyl, lauryl, and stearyl carbamates shows improvement in flex abrasion resistance at a wrinkle recovery level of 210-240° (Shirley), maximum improvement being shown by methylol stearyl carbamate and acetal. Although the specific attachments of these compounds with cellulose are not known, the likelihood of alkyl chain attachment is high, as observed by the effects of chain length on mechanical properties of the treated fabric. The treated cotton also shows mild water repellency as well as resistance to microbial attack due to the presence of hydrophobic and toxophoric groups.
Mixed Catalyst Systems for Reactions of Cotton with Dimethylolethyleneurea or Dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea
Authors: Berni Ralph J. , Gonzales Elwood J. , Benerito Ruth R.
Published: March 2007

Substituted acetic acids or dibasic acids in combination with MgCl2 are active catalyst systems for the reaction between cotton and dimethylolethyleneurea (DMEU) or dimethyloldihydroxyethyteneurea (DMDHEU) at cure temperatures from 105-125°C. The reaction is primarily influenced by hydrogen ion concentration of the pad bath. Based on condi tioned wrinkle recovery of treated facrics, the order of increasing activity among the substituted acetic acid-Mgcl2 catalyst systems at 115°C in promoting the reaction of cotton with DMDHEU is as follows: acetic ≤ diethylaminoacetic < methylaminoacetic ≤ aminoacetic ≤ thiohydroxyacetic ≤ cyanoacetic ≤ hydroxyacetic acid. The order for the cotton-DMEU reaction is as follows: diethylaminoacetic ≤ acetic ≤ methylaminoacetic ≤ thiohydroxyacetic < hy droxyacetic ≤ aminoacetic ≤ cyanoacetic.

Dibasic acids used with MgCl2 in the cellulose-DMEU reaction were more effective than either alone in increasing the amounts of bound nitrogen and formaldehyde and the wet recovery angles of the finished cottons. With DMDHEU, only the succinic acid-MgCl2 combination resulted in an increase in bound nitrogen over that observed with either catalyst used individually. With acids used singly or in combination with MgCl2, the pH of the pad bath was a primary factor in im proving wrinkle recovery with both DMEU and DMDHEU.
Simulation of Needle-Fabric Interactions in Sewing Operations
Authors: Khan R.A. , Hersh S.P. , Grady P.L.
Published: March 2007

The nature of the forces involved when a sewing needle penetrates a fabric have been studied on an Instron in an attempt to identify some of the factors which influence the needle-fabric interaction leading to heat generation. The measurements were made at velocities three to four orders of magnitude lower than actual sewing velocities. Four major variables considered were needle velocity, needle diameter, needle surface finish, and number of fabric layers. The influence of these factors on the maximum penetration force and on the energy required to drive the needle into and out of fabric has been studied. All these factors and their interactions (except needle velocity in some cases) affect the maxi mum penetration force of the needle and the energy of penetration. The effect of needle velocity over the range covered, even when significant, was minor (of the order of about 10%). The needle diameter affects the maximum penetration force and energy of penetration to a much greater extent. They are found to increase at a greater than linear rate with in creasing needle diameter. In one fabric, these parameters increased with the third or fourth power of the diameter. Whereas certain special high-emissivity needle-surface finishes have been found to reduce temperatures of needles during sewing, more energy is expended when these needles pass through fabrics than is expended with regular-finished needles. In a series of exploratory experiments, no differences in behavior were observed for a variety of needle-point shapes (twist point, diamond point, and standard ball point) or for tests using sewing threads compared with tests made without sewing threads. The bulged eye needle was effective in reducing energy buildup, compared with ball-point needles. The maximum penetration force and energy of penetration were found to increase linearly with increasing numbers of fabric layers. Wherever feasible, attempts are made to relate observed penetration energy measurements with expected needle heating characteristics and with results reported in the literature.
Influence of Fiber Geometry on the Mechanical Properties of Assemblies During Processing
Authors: Scardino Francis L. , Lyons W. James
Published: March 2007

Samples of polyester fibers have been processed on the worsted system from raw stock through the 4th pin-drafting stage. The samples consisted of all combinations of two widely-differing levels of each of the following fiber variables: (a) surface roughness, (b) cross-sectional shape, (c) linear density, (d) crimp, and (e) staple length. Laboratory evaluations were conducted the cohesion, elasticity, and resilience of card webs, and for the static and dynamic cohesion, evenness, and fiber orientation of slivers. In general, the important conclusions were that staple length and crimp are the most highly significant factors controlling the cohesion and related properties of the fiber assemblies; the other variables are statisti cally significant at lower levels.

Additionally, three pertinent fiber properties were measured on specimens removed from a number of subsample assemblies. The results of tests on specimens removed from 4th pin-drafting slivers showed that the rough and smooth fibers retain their distinctive surface characteristics through the successive stages of drafting. Crimp measurements indicated that this characteristic is retained through the opening and carding operations, but is substantially removed during pin drafting. Length analysis of fibers from 4th pin-drafting slivers showed that some breakage occurred in 6-in. samples during processing.
Recovery and Strength of Chemically Modified Single Cotton Fibers
Authors: Weiss Louis C. , Grant James N. , George McLean
Published: March 2007

Low-twist yarns made from Deltapine cotton were ethanol-extracted and chemically treated while slack. Fibers were taken from yarns treated with formaldehyde, by various procedures producing differences in swelling of the fiber structure when cross-linked; dimethylol ethyleneurea; N-methylol-N'-methylethyleneurea; and oleoyl chloride.

Single fibers progressively lose strength and elongation with increasing cross links when tested at 70°F, 65% RH and when wet. Cross links introduced in the swollen fiber structure usually cause less strength loss than those introduced in the nonswollen structure. Tensile strain recovery for single fibers increases with increasing cross links. The initial are more effective than the subsequent cross links. Increased energy recovery is related to increased strain recovery. Single fibers cross-linked in slack yarns show increases in recovery with decreases in stiffness. The retention of strength and the improved ability to recover are limited to some modifications, especially under the wet conditions. Changes in mechanical properties of cottons by smooth-drying treatments are due, in part, to changes in mechanical properties of the individual fibers.
Behavior of Spun Rayon Fabric Treated by the Poly-Set Process
Authors: Ohe Hideo , Takagishi Kazuo , Kuroda Haruki , Terrai Mamoru , Matsuki Shintaro , Matsukawa Saburo
Published: March 2007

Behavior of spun rayon fabric treated by the poly-set process was investigated in comparison with cotton and polynosic fabrics reported earlier. There was no significant difference between the process steps as regards dry wrinkle recovery of spun rayon fabric. Unlike cotton and polynosic fabrics, the wet wrinkle recovery showed a high, significant difference between process steps, as observed for cotton and plynosic fabrics, although the difference was not big enough to classify them into two distinctly separate groups. The dominant influence of the water-sensitive links was observed for the dry state of spun rayon. Treatment based on the simple assumption that the difference in the dry and wet wrinkle recovery angles is a criterion of water-sensitive links showed the same tendency as for polynosic fabrics. The relationships between the various physical properties and wrinkle recoveries were investigated.
Introduction and Removal of Durable Creases in Wrinkle-Resistant Cotton Fabric
Authors: Rowland Stanley P. , Brannan Mary Ann F.
Published: March 2007

Internally catalyzed, cross-linked cotton fabrics have provided the basis for an exploratory study of the introduction and removal of creases by thermal treatment. Durable creases having ratings of 4.0-5.0 have been developed in these cross-linked compositions which are characterized by conditioned and wet wrinkle recovery angles (W + F) as high as 300°. Creases are introduced by extended heat treatment or by multiple ironings of the wet fabric. By similar treatments of the creased fabric in the flat state, creases may be reduced substantially and, in some-cases, they may be reduced to the same extent as in unmodified cotton fabric. The study is based on cotton fabrics cross-linked with divinyl sulfone; the internal catalysis is provided by quaternary ammonium substituents introduced into the cellulose via ether linkages.
A New Decrimping Equation
Authors: Stuart I.M.
Published: March 2007

The solution obtained by Olofsson of the differential equation governing the shape of a yarn with some set-weave crimp under loading is applied to decrimping. A new "decrimping equation" is devised, which accounts for both longitudinal extensibility and unbending.

The new equation is found to fit the decrimping of a Corriedale fiber at both 65% RH and when wet, with errors less than the fiber diameter (40 microns) in six centimeters. However, estimates for Young's modulus in bending obtained from the application of the theory are approximately two times the estimates of Young's modulus in extension.

The decrimping of a wool yarn with set-weave crimp has also been fitted with a root mean square (rms) error of 120 microns in 10 centimeters. The variation of the fitting error with load is similar for both fiber and yarn. By introducing a nonlinearity in the linear extensibility of the yarn, its decrimping curve can be fitted to rms error of 30 microns.

KEYWORDS
The Relationship of Directional Reflectance Properties to Acrylic Pile Fabric and Fiber Characteristics
Authors: Johnson L.D.
Published: March 2007

Directional reflectance curves measured from acrylic pile fabric of various luster levels by means of the Hunter Model D-10 Recording Goniophotometer were subjected to detailed examination and analysis. The relationship of various luster-related curve properties to fabric and fiber characteristics was examined. A statistical curve-analysis technique is shown to produce the disperison index and kurtosis index, parameters which are useful for further quantization of directional reflectance curves. Dispersion index values are related to uniformity of pile lay, straightness of fibers, and basic fiber luster. Kurtosis index gives values related to "sharpness" of the luster.
Use of the Scanning Electron Microscope in a Study of the Abrasive Properties of Textile Yarns
Authors: Egerton G.S. , Fisher K.M.
Published: March 2007

The wear on latch knitting needles caused by the passage of yarn through a modified knitting assembly has been studied. The abraded needles were viewed in a scanning electron microscope. The wear produced on the surface of the needles by continuous filament polyester yarn was found to be in the form of smooth, regular and sometimes continuous grooves. The surface of a number of unused needles has been studied in some detail.
The Iodine Sorption Test. Factors Affecting Reproducibility and a Semimicro Adaptation
Authors: Nelson Mary L. , Rousselle Marie-Alice , Cangemi Sal J. , Trouard Phyllis
Published: March 2007

The iodine sorption test is a convenient though empirical method of measuring cellulose accessibility, but results show considerable variability. The relative importance of some experimental factors with respect to reproducibility of test results was, therefore, examined. Agitation during equilibration and use of a standard concentration of iodine solution and a standard sample weight were shown to be important. A fixed shedule of equilibration times and some degree of temperature control are also necessary. No increase in precision was obtained by direct titration of iodine in the sample, compared to the usual indirect determination by titration of supernatant solution and blank. The procedure can be scaled down from the usual 300-mg sample to 60-mg samples without loss of precision.
Amino Acid Composition of Human Hair
Authors: Robbins C.R. , Kelly C.H.
Published: March 2007

Samples of hair from five different female Caucasians were selected, while attempting to eliminate or minimize variables introduced by factors, suggested in previous literature, related to genetics, malnutrition, and cosmetic alteration, to analyze for 18 amino acids. The objective was to determine if human hair from such a similarly sampled group differs in composition from individual to individual. Significant differences were found for 9 of the 18 amino acids analyzed at the α = 0.01 level, however, the percent deviations for 16 of the amino acids were within ± 6%. Comparison of these samples of hair with pooled dark brown hair, from female Causasians, and purchased from a hair dealer, indicated a note-worthy difference only in the cystine content. Comparison of these data from human hair with that from 64's Merino wool indicates substantial differences between cystine, glycine, tyrosine, and phenylalanine. Statistically significant differences were suggested for other amino acids between Merino wool and human hair; however, the magnitude of the numerical differences, in these instances, was substantially lower than for the above mentioned four amino acids. Weathering effects in human hair were also explored, suggesting degradation to the amino acid residues of cystine, tyrosine, hysine, and histedine by the elements.
Mass and Strength Variations in Yarns
Authors: El-Behery H.M. , Mansour S.A.
Published: March 2007

Results are reported of a study on the strength and mass variations for the same part of the yarn. Equations are derived by regression for both carded and combed cottons. A general equation is also derived by grouping all the results. Comparison was carried out of the present results with these of previous work and values obtained in mill practice; better agreement was found in the case of combed yarns than in carded yarns. Carded cotton yarns showed better correlation between mass and strength variations than combed cotton yarns. Also, the results of this work give values different from those previously reported.
Felting Shrinkage and Dimensional Properties of Hand-Knitted Wool Fabrics
Authors: Baird K.
Published: March 2007

Hand-knitted fabrics were made on three sizes of needles using shrink resist-treated and untreated wool yams of three counts. The dimensional constants and felting shrinkage behavior of the fabrics were determined. In general, the properties were similar to those of machine-knitted fabrics, although in all states of relaxation, the course-spacing was less for the hand knits, and the dependence of shrinkage rate on cover factor was also somewhat lower than for machine knits.
Effect of Ambient Atmospheric Conditions During Spinning on Yarn Properties and Spinning Efficiency
Authors: Pillay K.P.R.
Published: March 2007

This paper presents the results of an intensive study on the influence of temperature and relative humidity during cot ton spinning on yarn properties and spinning efficiency. Two cottons (31/32 in. L 147 and 1.1/16 in. CO 4) have been spun at four temperature levels ranging from 70 to 91°F and seven relative humidity levels ranging from 34 to 76%, using different spinning factors.

The results indicate that an atmospheric temperature of 70-77°F and 41 % RH produce the least number of end breaks during spinning. The changes in the number of end breaks due to spinning factors like twist, draft, etc are to some extent influenced by variations in temperature and relative humidity. In general, high temperatures with low humidities and high humidities with low temperatures are detrimental to spinning efficiency.
Sorptions in Cottons Progressively Cross-Linked in the Pad-Dry-Cure, Mild-Cure, Poly-Set, or Wet-Fix Process 1
Authors: Honold Edith , Grant James N.
Published: March 2007

The alkali-centrifuge value (ACV) of cotton fibers is a quantitative measure of sorption from 15% NaOH solution. and reflects the fibers' swelling capacity. The ACV decreases when fiber swelling is restrained by a cross-linking agent. Cotton yarns, cross-linked with dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) to different contents by four different processes, had ACV's ranging from 260 to 160; the value for the noncross-linked control was 253. The caustic and the moisture sorptions depended upon the extent and nature of the reaction with the reagents. The cross-linking of cotton with DMDHEU, alone or in conjunction with Aerotex Resin Sp. (methylated methylol melamines) and the action of a caustic solution on the cross-linked structure seemed to be very complex. The properties of the cross-linked product depended upon many factors, such as preparatory process, content and distribution of the cross links, susceptibility of the cross links to a chemical, etc.
Structural Features of Cotton Treated by Pad-Dry-Cure, Mild-Cure, Poly-Set, and Wet-Fix Processes
Authors: Rowland Stanley P. , Stark Samuel M. , Cirino Vidabelle O. , Mason John S.
Published: March 2007

This study was directed at the nature of the cross linkages developed in cotton modified with dimethyloldihydroxyethyl eneurea (DMDHEU) in the pad-dry-cure, mild-cure, and poly-set processes and in cotton modified with DMDHEU together with Aerotex Resin 23 Sp. (methylated methylal melamines) inthe wet-fix process. The approach involved an examination of a series of samples throughout the course of each cross-linking reaction (a) for CH2O and N residues. (b) for stability of cellulose-reagent linkages to cupriethytenediamine hydroxide (Cuene), (c) for sol-gel data, and (d) for extent of swelling in Cuene. The critical structural features which distinguish the cotton cross-linked by the wet-fix process are (1) a highly uniform distribution of cross linkages throughout the fibers, (2) a high level of development of cross linkages in a fiber structure which is relatively open or noncollapsed, and (3) a high level of stable bond development (i.e., stable to base) or association between cellulose and the nitrogenous reagent residues.
Changes in the Structure of Wet-Spun Acrylic Fibers During Processing
Authors: Bell James P. , Dumbleton J.H.
Published: March 2007

The structural changes that occur during processing of a wet-spun 93% polyacrylonitrile -7% polyvinyl acetate co polymer are discussed. Stress-strain, x-ray diffraction, shrinkage, and electron microscopy data are explained in terms of a model in which the molecules are in an irregular helical conformation in the relaxed state and can extend during de formation. The molecules are arranged in fibrils which, in turn, form a three-dimensional network. The fibrillar ele ments remain intact through the coagulation, hot-stretching, and drying, although network junctures break and reform. The model proposed is an extension of that used by Rosenbaum to describe the behavior of acrylic fibers after processing and is in agreement with previous work on the structural characterization of polyacrylonitrile.
A Study of the Theory of Drafting Force in a Roller-Drafting Process
Authors: Dogu Ismail
Published: March 2007

An analysis was made of the pressure distribution inside a tensioned, twisted fiber assembly. As a result of this analysis, three different expressions for the pressure, each resulting in the same average value for low twists, are obtained. Any of these expressions can be used to calculate the drafting force of a relatively low-twisted fiber assembly such as a roving or the strength of a low-twist staple-fiber yarn. In this paper, the drafting force and other associated problems have been dealt with theoretically, which can be very useful in understanding the dynamics of a roller-drafting process.
Graft Copolymerization of Vinyl Monomers on Modified Cotton
Authors: Kantouch A. , Hebeish A. , El-Rafie M.H.
Published: March 2007

The interaction of acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate with cellulose crosslinked in either the wet or dry state under the catalytic influence of CeIV ions has been investigated. It was found that the graft yields obtained with dry cross linked cellulose are much lower than those of the control, whereas the yields obtained with wet crosslinked cellulose and the control are comparable. Dry crosslinking prior to grafting seems to cause a significant structural change, particularly in the disordered regions, reducing the accessibility of these regions to grafting. Wet crosslinking, on the other hand, appears to stabilize the uncollapsed state of the cellulose thereby leaving its susceptibility toward grafting practically unaltered. The consumption of CeIV during grafting is higher than that during oxidation, probably due to homopolymer formation. This is observed with the crosslinked celluloses as well as with the controls. The CeIV consumption during oxidation of crosslinked cellulose is comparable with that of the controls regardless of the crosslinking method. The bound formaldehyde in crosslinked cellulose decreases after CeIV treatment, indicating some cleavage of the crosslinks.
Energy Losses within Sheared Fiber Assemblies
Authors: Cheng C.C. , Duckett K.E.
Published: March 2007

A theoretical treatment of fiber-to-fiber frictional character and internal energy losses within an oscillating fibrous mass is presented. Experimental evaluation of the theoretical result is given and discussed in terms of the correlations ob tained by extending over a wide range of the variables involved. A single measurable parameter obtained from the energy loss mechanism is derived which characterizes the processibiliy of the fibrous material.
A General Relationship between "Easy Stretch" and Break Extension for Woven and Knitted Cotton Fabrics, Including Effects of Resin Setting
Authors: Olofsson B.
Published: March 2007

A most significant correlation between "easy stretch" (∈∞) and break extension (∈ b) has been observed for cotton woven fabrics, also consistent with measurements on knitted fabrics. Assuming that the reason for this correlation is an over-all similarity of the stress-strain curves, a master curve equation is derived, whose "individual" parameter is settled by force and extension at break.
Decrystallization of Cotton Cellulose by Dual Treatments with Benzyltrimethylammonium Hydroxide and Alkali Metal Hydroxides
Authors: Vigo Tyrone L. , Mitcham Donald , Welch Clark M.
Published: March 2007

Kiered, cotton yarns undergo extensive decrystallization when wet in the slack state with 2.1 N aqueous henzyltri methylammonium hydroxide. The decrystallization is temporary, inasmuch as washing and drying cause the yarn to recrystallize to Cellulose I. However, much of the decrystallization can be rendered permanent, if the swollen yarns are aftertreated with aqueous sodium or potassium hydroxide prior to washing and air-drying. The alkali aftertreatment also alters a variety of other physical properties in ways differing from either swelling treatment carried out alone.

The effects of concentration and type of alkali metal hydroxides on the decrystallization, lattice conversion, and physical properties of the yarns are reported. The effect of tension applied during various stages of these dual treatments is dis cussed with respect to textile properties of the yarns before and after crosslinking with DMEU, and also with respect to crystallinity, lattice conversion, and orientation imparted.
Making Cotton Magnetic
Authors: Thibodeaux Devron P. , Baril Albert
Published: March 2007

Techniques are being sought to impart paramagnetic properties to cotton fibers. The most promising are imbibition of aqueous solutions of rare earth salts and treatment with rare earth and transition element organometallics in hydro carbon solvents. Using the Faraday technique, determinations of the magnetic susceptibility and magnetic force to sample weight ratios were made for treated cottons. The potential applicability and the relative uniformity, efficiency, and practicality of these methods are discussed. Research reported herein is part of a continuing effort to develop means of using nonmechanical forces in cotton textile processing.
The Bottom Ignition Oxygen Index Test
Authors: Arcand C.G. , Vullo W.J.
Published: March 2007

A variant of the oxygen index flammability test has been developed which, used in conjunction with the candlelike determination, contributes to a truer understanding of the flammability of materials. This test is entitled the Bottom Ignition Oxygen Index (B.I.O. I.) and is run by igniting the bottommost surface of the test sample rather than the upper most surface as in the normal, candlelike determination.

It is shown that the high, e.g., 27 or more, candlelike Oxygen Index (O.I.) of certain materials is not an adequate indi cation of flame retardance. These materials can be completely consumed in an alternative flammability test and afford much lower O.I. when tested in the bottom ignition manner. A useful criterion for flame retardance appears to be a candlelike O.I. of at least 27 in addition to a B.I.O.I. of at least 22.
Strong Lewis Acid Salts as Catalysts in Mild-Cure Finishing Treatments for Wrinkle Resistance
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Cashen Norton A.
Published: March 2007

Lewis acid salts have been investigated in place of mineral acids as catalysts for wrinkle resistance treatments of cotton fabric with dimethylol methyl carbamate under mild-cure finishing conditions. Salts that are strong Lewis acids, such as aluminum chloride, aluminum nitrate, aluminum sulfate, and stannic chloride, produced finishes essentially equivalent to those of mineral acid catalysis when curing was conducted at 100°C. With curing at 60°C, however, the mineral acids are much more effective catalysts. Zinc chloride, zinc nitrate, and magnesium chloride, the catalysts widely used in con ventional pad-dry-cure finishing treatments, are weaker Lewis acids and are not suitable for mild-cure finishing.
Chemical Modification of Wool with Dicarbonyl Compounds in Dimethyl Sulfoxide
Authors: Whitfield R.E. , Friedman Mendel
Published: March 2007

Thirteen structurally diverse dicarbonyl compounds were used to modify arginine and lysine residues of wool chemically. Treatment in basic ethanol resulted in no ohservable weight gain. In contrast, when the reagents were applied in dimethyl sulfoxide in the presence of triethylamine, weight gains ranged from 1.5 to 7%. Amino acid analyses of hydrolysates of modified wool samples revealed that 1,2-cyclohexanedione and di (2-pyridyl) glyoxal modified only arginine side chains, whereas acenaphthenequinone and sodium 1,2-naphthoquinone-4-sulfonate were selective for lysine. Other compounds modified both lysine and arginine side chains. Several physical textile properties of the modified wools are reported.
Mechanical Properties of Reduced Wool and Methyl Methacrylate Graft Copolymers
Authors: Varma D.S. , Chaudhuri S.K. , Sarkar R.K.
Published: March 2007

Graft copolymeriration of methyl methacrylate was performed onto wool reduced by various chemicals using ferrous ammonium sulfate and hydrogen peroxide redox system at 45°C temperature. Reduced wools show higher percentage of polymer deposition as compared to natural because the thiol groups act as graft centers. Mechanical properties of MMA-reduced wool graft copolymers were studied. Results indicate that, with approximately 50% graft copolymeriza tion, the decrease in elongation is considerably high and the tensile strength is decreased slightly. In case of modulus, an initial increase with polymer deposition followed by a decrease. Density and moisture regain were also determined and the results were discussed in relation to mechanical properties of graft copolymers.
Chemical and Physical Properties of Cotton Modified by N-Methylol Agents
Authors: Vail Sidney L. , Verburg Gerald B.
Published: March 2007

Chemical and physical changes occurring in cotton cellulose when it is finished with N-methylol agents under varying degrees of cure are discussed. Resistance to acidic hydrolysis of the finish has been found to be an excellent method for establishing the degree of cure of a finish. Factors discussed include time and temperature of cure, reactant to catalyst ratio, type of catalyst, reactivity of the agent enhanced by the leaving group effect, functionality of the reactant, processing conditions, acid-base control, fabric weight, and fabric type, i.e., cotton and cotton-polyester fabrics.
Solvent and Substituent Effects on the Ultraviolet-Visible Absorption Spectra of Azo Dyes
Authors: Irick Gether , Pacifici J.G.
Published: March 2007

The effects of solvents, including polymeric substrates, and substituentson the absorption spectra of 4,4'-donor acceptor- substituted azo dyes were studied. The position of the intense, visible charge-transfer band was dependent on the di electric properties of the solvent ; a linear relationship was found between observed and calculated frequency shifts. Spec tral behavior obtained for the dyes in polymeric solvents was consistent with that obtained for the dyes in nonpolymeric solvents. The relationship between dye structure and solvent effects was also determined. Shifts in absorption maxima with substitution in positions insulated from the conjugated chromophoric system were consistent with Taft polar-substituent constants; the effects of such substituents were, therefore, primarily inductive in nature.
The Influence of Individual Differences on Garment Wear and Wear Evaluation
Authors: Morris Mary Ann , Schutz Howard G. , Prato Harriet H.
Published: March 2007

Using correlation and stepwise multiple regression techniques, the garment wear scores from a wear study of men's polyester/cotton durable-press trousers were found to be related to: (1) an estimate of the physical activity of the wearer during the wear period, (2) the wearer's height and weight, and (3) Thurstone temperament scores for Dominant and Vigorous. For this sample of 22 men, the resulting regression equation accounted for 67% of the wear score variability.

The correlation between the wearer's estimate of the severity of wear and the garment wear score was low. The addition of Thurstone temperament scores for Active, Impulsive, Dominant and Reflective improved the prediction of the regression equation and indicated the importance of personality characteristics in the evaluation of wear.
Fabrics for Gliding Decelerators
Authors: Schulman Stanley , Abbott Norman J. , Lannefeld Theodore E.
Published: March 2007

This work has been concerned with the development of fabric having suitable characteristics for use in gliding decel erators. Conventional woven fabric proved to be unsuitable because the desired low level of air permeability could not be achieved, particularly when the fabric was subjected to biaxial stress. Very low permeabilities were obtained by applying a coating having a weight of at least 0.5 oz/yd2 (0.017 kg/m2). Most conventional coating materials could not be used because of excessive adhesion between the coated surfaces under pressure packing conditions. The best coating procedure, giving the combination of high tearing strength and no pressure-induced adhesion, consisted of two base coats of a soft polyurethane covered with a coat of nylon. When applied to appropriately designed basket weaves, fabrics were produced which represent a considerable improvement over present commercially available fabrics, par ticularly with respect to tearing strength and ability to be pressure-packed without adhesion.
Radiation Modification of Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Nasr Hussein I.
Published: March 2007

This work gives the results of a series of experiments attempting to improve the crease-recovery properties of cotton fabrics. This was successfully realized by crosslinking cotton cellulose, using multifunctional monomers initiated by ionizing radiation, alone or combined with a delayed heat cure. Parameters were radiation dose, initial monomer concen tration, mixed monomer systems, and effect of a delayed heat cure. The results showed a significant improvement in wrinkle resistance of treated fabrics, with practically no loss in tensile strength.
Variability of Fiber-Length Parameters
Authors: Garde A.R. , Ganesh K.
Published: March 2007

The variability of fiber-length parameters obtained from the Baer Sorter and the Digital Fibrograph has been estimated. It has been found that the two methods have the same order of variability. The need for considering Type II errors, while detecting small changes in fibei lengths, has been brought out. Readily usable tables for choosing the ccrrect sample size have been given.
Conversion of Solid Waste to Liquid Fuel
Authors: Weiss Alvin H.
Published: March 2007

A background in the chemistry of cellulose pyrolysis and hydrogenation is provided, and the cellulose liquefaction literature and state of the ait is reviewed. A concept of an ultimate process in which cellulosic solid waste is used both to produce process hydrogen by the water-gas shift reaction and to provide the raw material for conversion to oil is de veloped. The theoretical yield of hydrocarbon oil CnH2n-2from cellulose is 35.7 weight % or 2.47 bbl/ton at 0.810 specific gravity. An economic process will probably use a reaction medium of cellulosics slurried in oil and will require a catalyst that permits operations at pressures below 1000 psig. The heating value of refuse is approximately 5000 Btu/lb, on an as, is basis and 9000 Btu/lb on a moisture and ash-free basis. At present, pyrolysis processes are capable of produc ing a tar (containing 20 weight % oxygen) with a heating value of 12,000 Btu/lb and an equal yield of char. Hydrogena tion processes have the potential of producing practically oxygen-free oil approaching 18,000 Btu/lb, without the char byproduct.
Flame-Resistant Wool
Authors: Whitfield Robert E. , Friedman Mendel
Published: March 2007

The flame resistance of wool fabrics is usefully increased by treating them with aliphatic haloorganic acid halides in dimethylformamide for 15 -30 min at 50°C. Both chlorine and bromine derivatives are effective. At least 2% com bined halogen by weight appears necessary to protect woolen fabrics. 'I'he flame resistance is durable to drycleaning and laundering. Prior stabilization of the fabric to felting shrinkage was needed to evaluate durabihty of flame resistance to laundering.
Crimp and Cover Factor of Maximum Weavable Fabrics as a Function of Displacement Ratio
Authors: Weiner Louis I.
Published: March 2007

This paper contains a sample condensed table and an example which illustrates its use.
On Large Bending and Torsional Deformations of Fibers in Space
Authors: Konopasek M.
Published: March 2007

This paper contains some comments on the paper by M. F. Massoud published in TRJ 41, 793-800 (1971). It also gives some information about the latest results in computation of the shape of a fiber in space on the theory of large bending and torsional deformations.
Wool Felting and Electrostatic Interaction Between Wool Fibers in Salt and Detergent Solutions
Authors: Stigter Dirk
Published: March 2007

The Derjaguin-Verwey-Overbeek theory of the ionic double layer is applied to problems in wool felting. The electro static repulsion between ionized wool fibers in aqueous salt solutions is shown to range from a very small value for natural wool to over 30 ergs/cm2 of contact area between chemically modified fibers with a high surface charge. In the latter case, such repulsion may reduce significantly the hydrophobic attraction beteeen the fibers and thus reduce or eliminate their felting tendency. The theory is applied to results by Meichelbeck and Knittel on modified wool with a high con centration of either acidic or basic groups. The effects of fiber modification, of solution pH, and of fiber blending on felting follow predicted trends. The influence of ionic detergents on felting is understood in terms of strong adsorption of detergent ions at oppositely charged sites at the fiber surface, or weak adsorption at hydrophobic surface sites.
An Electron Spin Resonance Study of the Copper (II) Interaction with Wool-Keratin
Authors: Kokot S. , Feughelman M. , Golding R.M.
Published: March 2007

The esr spectrum observed from a wool sample treated in a copper (II) solution in the pH range of 1.5 to 5.0 was inter preted by assuming two paramagnetic species each with an effective spin S=1/2. The interaction giving rise to this esr spectrum was ascribed to the complex formation between Cu(II) and the free carboxyl groups in the wool.
Buckling of Wool Weft-Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Hamilton R.J. , Postle R.
Published: March 2007

This investigation was confined to buckling tests on wool weft-knitted fabrics. A mounting device has been constructed to allow buckling tests on plain, rib and interlock knitted structures to be carried out on an Instron tester. Preliminary results of the buckling test method are given here.
Microscopical Properties of Some Cellulose Ethers
Authors: Cannizzaro Anna M. , Rollins Mary L. , Stanonis David J.
Published: March 2007

Microscopical features of partially etherified cotton fibers are described through examination of benzyl, benzhydryl, and trityl celluloses. Reaction appeared to be uniform throughout the fibers. Refractive indices generally increased with increase in degree of substitution (DS). Both benzhydryl and trityl celluloses exhibited zero birefringence at intermediate levels of reaction. The birefringence of tritylated cotton increased at higher levels of substitution. Sub stituted cotton fibers are diflicult to beat apart in water; in common with the cellulose esters, the ethers yielded on beating less and less fibrillar material as DS was increased. Solubility of cross sections in 0.5 M Cupriethylenediamine hydroxide (Cuen) and in chloroform indicated slight differences in fibrillar architecture among the cellulose ethers, and marked differences between ethers and esters attributable to differences in methods of preparation.