bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Characterization of Etch Residues Generated on Damascene Structures
Authors: Le Quoc Toan , Kesters Els , Hoflijk I. , Conard T. , Shen M. , Braun S. , Burk Y. , Holsteyns Frank
Published: September 2016

For patterned TiN/silicon oxide/low-k dielectric stack, fluorinated etch residues were detected on the TiN surface, the dielectric sidewall and bottom, regardless of the low-k material used in the stack. XPS results showed that they consisted of polymer-based (CFx) residues deposited on trench sidewall and bottom, and metal-based (TiFx) residues mainly deposited on top surface. In terms of post-etch residue removal, the efficiency of various wet clean solutions can be clearly distinguished for CFx, and TiFx using the same patterned porous low-k stack. These results also demonstrate that the removal of both TiFx and CFx residues generated during the plasma is possible in one step with optimized chemical and process.
Evaluation of Post Etch Residue Cleaning Solutions for the Removal of TiN Hardmask after Dry Etch of Low-k Dielectric Materials on 45 nm Pitch Interconnects
Authors: Payne Makonnen , Lippy Steven , Lieten Ruben R. , Kesters Els , Le Quoc Toan , Murdoch Gayle , Gonzalez Victor V. , Holsteyns Frank
Published: September 2016

In the BEOL, as interconnect dimensions shrink and novel materials are used, it has become increasingly difficult for traditional PERR removal chemicals to meet the evolving material compatibility requirements. As a result, formulated cleans that specifically target these unique challenges are required. Two formulated BEOL cleans were evaluated on blanket and patterned wafer coupons for their ability to wet etch titanium nitride (TiN) and clean post-plasma etch residue, while remaining compatible to interconnect metals (Cu and W) and low-k dielectric (k = 2.4). Both, showed an improvement in material compatibility relative to dilute HF, while simultaneously being able to remove the TiN hardmask and post-etch residue, leading > 90% yield on test structures of varying sizes.
High Throughput Wet Etch Solution for BEOL TiN Removal
Authors: Hsu Chia Jung , Wang Chieh Ju , Tu Sheng Hung , Payne Makonnen , Cooper Emanuel , Lippy Steven
Published: September 2016

Sub-10 nm technology node manufacturing processes may require the use of thicker and denser TiN hard mask for patterning at the BEOL. The modified TiN, which tends to be more chemically robust, must be removed using a wet etch process, while maintaining typical throughput - no extension of typical wet etch process times. To satisfy these needs, a new TiN etching accelerator was found that enhanced the activity of peroxide-related species in a wet etch chemical formulation that achieved increased TiN etch rate relative to formulation without TiN etch rate accelerator (Sample 1), while also minimizing the damage to ultra-low-k inter layer dielectric (ILD) layer by a strong base, also present in the formulation. We report here the result of a solvent based formulation, which adopted the TiN etching accelerator. The formulation was able to maintain TiN etch rate and remove post-etch residue, while remaining selective to ultra-low-k ILD, Co and Cu. The TiN etch rate of the accelerator enhanced formulation can be further tuned by modifying the process temperature or the hydrogen peroxide to formulation mixing ratio and has the potential capability to process > 400 wafers.
Impact of Dissolved Oxygen in Dilute HF Solution on Material Etch
Authors: Kesters Els , Iwasaki Akihisa , Le Quoc Toan , Holsteyns Frank
Published: September 2016

Using diluted HF (0.05-0.1%) as cleaning solutions, experimental results showed that the etching behavior of Cu strongly depended on the dissolved oxygen (DO) concentration and the chamber atmosphere conditions. On the contrary, the Cu etch rate was not affected by the HF concentration. A complete reverse trend was observed for plasma-treated OSG2.4. The etching behavior of plasma-treated OSG2.4 was not affected by DO concentration and chamber atmosphere conditions, but was strongly dependent on the HF concentration. The etch rate determined on patterned structure with low-k exposed, using CD measurements, confirmed the results obtained on blanket plasma-treated OSG2.4 material.
Study of TiW Conditioning through Different Wet and Dry Treatments to Promote Ni Electroless Growth
Authors: Venegoni Ivan , Scimè Fabio , Ravizza Enrica , Spadoni Simona , Pipia Francesco , Colpani Paolo , Alessandri Mauro
Published: September 2016

Electroless Ni deposition is often used in presence of Cu, Ti and Au. Recently TiW has also started to be employed, but with this alloy the Ni deposition is not always neat. In our work we investigate the effect of different wet treatments on the Ni growth by means of XPS analyses and SEM inspections. It is found that an oxidized surface inhibits the activator deposition. The de-oxidized Ti atoms in TiW on the other hand are believed to act as the principal sites for Pd seed deposition and subsequent Ni growth.
Effect of Dilute Hydrogen Peroxide in Ultrapure Water on SiGe Epitaxial Process
Authors: Masaoka Toru , Gan Nobuko , Fujimura Yu , Ogawa Yuichi , Wostyn Kurt , Pacco Antoine , Yoshida Yukifumi , Holsteyns Frank
Published: September 2016

Ultrapure water contains dilute hydrogen peroxide as an impurity. In order to clarify an impact of the dilute hydrogen peroxide on cleaning processes, a SiGe epitaxial layer was deposited on a Si(100) wafer which surface was treated by HF last process with hydrogen peroxide contained UPW or hydrogen peroxide removed UPW. The defect in the SiGe epitaxial layer was reduced when the hydrogen peroxide removed UPW was used.
Post CMP Wet Cleaning Influence on Cu Hillocks
Authors: Votta Annamaria , Pipia Francesco , Livellara Luisito , Caminati Manuela , Spadoni Simona , Ravizza Enrica , Grasso Salvatore , Bollin Maddalena , Moroni Maurizio , Alessandri Mauro , Colpani Paolo
Published: September 2016

Up to date, it is commonly reported in literature that the amount of copper hillocks is dependent on a) the total amount of residual Cu oxide after Cu CMP, and b) the Cu nitridation. The present work describes how that is only partially true: hillocks depend also on the kind of oxide and on the roughness of the surface after wet treatment. This contribution is even more important than what reported in literature. A tentative model for this behavior is proposed.
Atomic Resolution Quality Control for Fin Oxide Recess by Atomic Resolution Profiler
Authors: Kim Tae Gon , Ryu Heon Yul , Kenis Karine , Jo Ah Jin , Cho Sang Joon , Park Sang Il , Schmidt Sebastian , Irmer Bernd
Published: September 2016

A non-destructive metrology technique for critical dimension of Fin structure is important for better device characterization and development for improving yield. Due to extremely small dimension with high complexity in FinFET a new metrology solution needs to be evaluated. In-line atomic resolution profiler was performed to provide a suitable metrology for oxide recess metrology in Fin process. The technique could measure accurately the height and CD of Fin structures, which has the space with of 25 nm and the height of 60 nm. The uniformity of recess height could be measured, which could be interpreted by loading effect of etch process. High long term repeatability of the technique was achieved for process monitoring purpose.
A Mathematical Model Forecasting HF Adsorption onto Cu-Coated Wafers as a Function of the Airborne Concentration and Moisture
Authors: Herrán Fernando , Fontaine Hervé , González-Aguirre Paola , Beitia Carlos , Ohlsen Jim , Lundgren Jorgen
Published: September 2016

In order to better understand and model the whole sorption behavior of the HF when in contact with a Cu surface inside a FOUP and thus control the related yield losses, Cu-coated wafers have been exposed to varying HF (ppbv) and H2O (% RH) airborne concentrations. These experiments have yielded a HF-Cu sorption empirical-mathematical model that may be used as an industrial tool for queue-time or fluoride surface concentration predictions. Besides, the formation of CuF2 only in case of corrosion is evidenced by the XPS measurements whereas the key role of the H2O is further confirmed by the desorption experiments. The H2O retained by the surface is actually responsible for promoting the HF adsorption/desorption onto/from Cu and enables a HF threshold concentration that separates the two well differenced uptake regimes; adsorption and corrosion.
Progress in Cleaning and Wet Processing for Kesterite Thin Film Solar Cells
Authors: Vermang Bart , Mule Aniket , Gampa Nikhil , Sahayaraj Sylvester , Ranjbar Samaneh , Brammertz Guy , Meuris Marc , Poortmans Jef
Published: September 2016

Copper indium gallium selenide/sulfide (CIGS) and copper zinc tin selenide/sulfide (CZTS) are two thin film photovoltaic materials with many similar properties. Therefore, three new processing steps – which are well-known to be beneficial for CIGS solar cell processing – are developed, optimized and implemented in CZTS solar cells. For all these novel processing steps an increase in minority carrier lifetime and cell conversion efficiency is measured, as compared to standard CZTS processing. The scientific explanation of these effects is very similar to its CIGS equivalent: the incorporation of alkali metals, ammonium sulfide surface cleaning, and Al2O3 surface passivation leads to electrical enhancement of the CZTS bulk, front surface and reduced front interface recombination, respectively.
Tris(Trimethylsilyl)Germane (Me3Si)3GeH: A Molecular Model for Sulfur Passivation of Ge(111) Surfaces
Authors: Okorn Gilbert , Fischer Roland , Steller Beate , Engesser Philipp , Okorn-Schmidt Harald
Published: September 2016

Tristrimethylsilylgermane, (Me3Si)3GeH, was employed as a molecular model compound for hydrogen terminated Ge(111) surfaces. Time and temperature dependent NMR spectroscopy yielded rate constants for the reaction between (Me3Si)3GeH and elemental sulfur and allowed for the determination of the activation energy for this molecular model reaction to mimic germanium surface passivation.
Ultra-Trace Sulfate Ion Removal on Photomasks for Haze Reduction
Authors: Guo Eric , Wang Crystal , Qian Sandy , Wang Mars , Zhang Harry , Wu Keanu , Shen Jian , Jiang Wei , Xu Fei
Published: September 2016

Sulfuric Peroxide Mixture (SPM) showed excellent cleaning efficiency for organic contamination as well as metal or metal oxide particles on photomask surface. In order to reduce haze formation during litho process for ArF photomask, it is necessary to remove any ion sources on photomask, such as sulfate ion, ammonium ion, etc. In this paper we reported a new cleaning method, treating photomask with 172nm UV followed by hot DI rinse, reduces residual sulfate ion in MoSiNxOy surface and quartz surface by 50% and 80% respectively comparing to traditional cleaning process. We believe that this new process has the potential to greatly alleviate the haze issue caused by sulfate ion and helps increase the lifetime of photomasks
172 nm Excimer Radiation as a Technology Accelerator for Bio-Electronic Applications
Authors: Schäfert Andreas , Wiesmann Hartwig
Published: September 2016

The publication reviews recent applications of 172nm excimer radiation in bio-electric fields. It shows the broad field which already profit from the technology and also illustrates possible potentials. The principle of erasing static electricity from polyimide surfaces is explained as one application. The effect as a function of the dose is presented both for positive and negative charge and typical materials.In addition the VUV cleaning mechanism with 172nm excimer radiation is demonstrated by the mass spectroscopy of contaminations on the surface of a Si wafer.Surface energy changes of polyamides, glass and metal as a function of dose are presented as well as the change of the contact angle of water on the surface.Another application of surface energy enhancement is the polymer microchip production. Due to the surface activation, the bonding strength for the PMMA-Si combination is significantly enhanced. The results are presented in comparison to other surface treatment methods.Another presented application which profits from the surface activation is adhesive-free coupling. The mechanism of this application is explained and the adhesion strength as a function of material combination is presented. For 2 typical applications, the bonding strength is shown as a function of applied dose. A glance at other applications and an outlook is given as well.
Inline FOUP Cleaner - The New Type FOUP Cleaner for the Next Generation
Authors: Gwon Sa Gong , Lee Kwang Bong , Lee Byoung Jun , Choi Geun Min
Published: September 2016

The existing methodology for Front Opening Unified Pod (FOUP) cleaning, storage, and transfer is inherently flawed in three areas: a) equipment layout, b) intra-process wait time, and c) human handling. In each area, improved solutions are suggested and a new approach is developed and named In-line FOUP Cleaner (IFC). IFC is a new, singular approach accomplished via total integration of multiple equipment types including sorter, FOUP cleaner, stocker, particle counter, and the FDC monitoring system. Utilizing the IFC approach, significant improvements have been documented with respect to all three areas of concern. Overall cost savings, as well as a side benefit of improved fume removal, are carefully observed. It appears to be an interesting approach to solving the problems associated with FOUP cleaning, storage, and transfer for the next generation semiconductor fab.
Applications for Surface Engineering Using Atomic Layer Etching - Invited Paper
Authors: Papalia John , Marchack Nathan , Bruce Robert , Miyazoe Hiroyuki , Engelmann Sebastian , Joseph Eric A.
Published: September 2016

Over the course of the past few years, the semiconductor industry has continued to invent and innovate profoundly to adhere to Moore’s Law and Dennard scaling. At each of the technology nodes starting with 45nm, new materials and integration techniques, such as high-K & metal gates, double patterning techniques, and now 3D FinFet / Trigate device geometries are being introduced in order to maintain device performance. This places a large burden on unit process development to accommodate and deliver advanced process capability and is growing the need for the ultimate etch solution: etching with atomic layer precision. Atomic layer etching is a promising path to answer the processing demands of thin high mobility channel devices on the angstrom scale. Self-limiting reactions, discrete reaction & activation steps, or extremely low ion energy etch plasmas are some of the pathways being pursued for precise sub-nanometer material removal. In this invited paper, previously published in SPIE, the ability to achieve atomic layer etch precision is reviewed in detail for a variety of material sets and implementation methods. For a cyclic approach most similar to a reverse ALD scheme, the process window to achieve a truly self-limited atomic layer etch process is identified and the limitations as a function of controlling the adsorption step, the irradiation energy, and the reaction process are examined. Alternative approaches, including processes to enable pseudo-ALE precision, are then introduced and results from their application investigated. While these new plasma-enhanced atomic layer etch (PE-ALE) processes show encouraging results, most patterning applications are best realized by optimizations through discharge chemistry and/or plasma parameters. Significant improvements however were obtained when applying PE-ALE approaches to small pitch patterns. In particular the increased selectivity to OPL seems to offer a potential benefit for patterning high aspect ratio features.
Digital Etching of GaAs Materials: Comparison of Oxidation Treatments
Authors: Rebaud Mickaël , Roure Marie Christine , Enyedi Virginie , Borowik Lukasz , Martinez Eugénie , Toselli Laura , Besson Pascal
Published: September 2016

Oxidation of a GaAs surface was performed with liquid H2O2, gaseous O2 and O3 in order to identify the best solution for digital etching. The oxide layer formed with H2O2 is Garich and exhibits surface roughening which can be understood by oxide hydrolysis/condensation model. Roughening makes aqueous H2O2 irrelevant as an oxidizing agent for repeated oxidation steps. On the other hand, a smooth oxide layer can be obtained with gaseous O2 and O3. Thickness of the formed oxide layer is controlled by time exposure to the oxidizing agent. The nature of the oxide was analyzed by XRay Photo-electron Spectroscopy and is also timedependent.
Thin Layer Etching of Silicon Nitride: Comparison of Downstream Plasma, Liquid HF and Gaseous HF Processes for Selective Removal after Light Ion Implantation
Authors: Pollet Olivier , Possémé Nicolas , Ah-Leung Vincent , Garcia Barros Maxime
Published: September 2016

For technology nodes beyond 14nm silicon nitride spacer etching has become a major challenge. Conventional plasma etching techniques based on CHF3/O2 cannot achieve thorough nitride removal on horizontal surfaces without inducing either CD loss or Si/SiGe source/drain recess. This leads to either gate leakage increase or poor raised source/drain epitaxy. To overcome atomic scale control issues faced with continuous plasma processes, several techniques aiming at achieving atomic layer etching or thin layer etching were recently described [1]. An original etching approach has been reported which consists in modifying the silicon nitride through H2 ion implantation by plasma (ICP or CCP) and then selectively removing the modified fraction of the layer thanks to chemical etching [2]. Layer modification depth is controlled thanks to plasma parameters (bias voltage and process time). This unconventional technique was demonstrated on 14nm FDSOI logic device and showed less than 1nm spacer CD loss, less than 0.6nm SiGe recess which enabled defect-free source/drain epitaxy [2]. Mechanisms for silicon nitride modifications and selective removal are discussed in this article by comparing downstream plasma, liquid-phase HF and gas-phase HF as removal techniques.
Silicon Surface Passivation in HF Solutions for Improved Gate Oxide Reliability
Authors: Garnier Philippe
Published: September 2016

The silicon surface passivation with diluted HF solutions is hereby explained. Without a very stable, correct Si-H surface passivation, a rough silicon surface can be obtained, leading to poor gate oxide integrity or bad epi film quality. Detailed mechanism are depicted and solutions to obtain best Si-H passivated surface are given
Reactive Oxygen Species: Physiological and Physiopathological Effects on Synaptic Plasticity
Authors: Beckhauser Thiago Fernando , Francis-Oliveira José , De Pasquale Roberto
Published: September 2016

In the mammalian central nervous system, reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation is counterbalanced by antioxidant defenses. When large amounts of ROS accumulate, antioxidant mechanisms become overwhelmed and oxidative cellular stress may occur. Therefore, ROS are typically characterized as toxic molecules, oxidizing membrane lipids, changing the conformation of proteins, damaging nucleic acids, and causing deficits in synaptic plasticity. High ROS concentrations are associated with a decline in cognitive functions, as observed in some neurodegenerative disorders and age-dependent decay of neuroplasticity. Nevertheless, controlled ROS production provides the optimal redox state for the activation of transductional pathways involved in synaptic changes. Since ROS may regulate neuronal activity and elicit negative effects at the same time, the distinction between beneficial and deleterious consequences is unclear. In this regard, this review assesses current research and describes the main sources of ROS in neurons, specifying their involvement in synaptic plasticity and distinguishing between physiological and pathological processes implicated.
Textiles and Fashion
Authors: Udale Jenny
Published: September 2016

Textiles and Fashion explores the integration of textile design with fashion. It begins with a brief history of textiles, showing the links with technical innovation and social developments. It then focuses on the processes of textile design, including the ethical and sustainable issues around textiles today. The book also provides practical information on fibre production, dyeing and finishing techniques. Various surface treatments are explored, as well as the way in which colour and trend influences fashion and textiles.

Through case studies and interviews, fashion and textile designers discuss their production processes and how they use textiles in their work. New to the second edition are exercises to help students to explore and further their knowledge of textiles and fashion.
Basics Fashion Design 08: Styling
Authors: McAssey Jacqueline , Buckley Clare
Published: September 2016

There are few academic texts on the subject of fashion styling, and many students are unsure about what it is and who has paved the way in this specific field. Basics Fashion Design 08: Styling offers an effective mix of key stylists' biographies, high quality images by professionals and students alike and practical advice about how to produce a photo-shoot and break into the industry.

A stylist is responsible for choosing the look and clothing for a fashion image to communicate a fashion idea, trend or theme, or to advertise a fashion product. This book outlines what it means to style for a catalogue or advertisement (commercial styling), or a magazine (editorial styling) and what types of skills these different fields require.

Styling proves that even on a limited budget, with tremendous imagination and drive it is possible to create beautiful and relevant work.
Fashion Thinking
Authors: Dieffenbacher Fiona
Published: September 2016

The thinking behind a fashion collection is what sets one designer apart from another. Learning to push ideas forward, to develop concepts and to challenge the status quo is what gives us some of fashion’s greatest innovations. Yet students often struggle to develop their own style and approach to design. While the design process is fundamental to the way all fashion designers work, there is no right or wrong method: each emerging designer must find their own authentic process.

By following nine award-winning student designers through their thought processes in response to a brief, Fashion Thinking establishes key approaches to design and encourages this process of discovery. Each student project represents a diverse range of strategies at each stage of the design cycle. By following each throughout their various stages of development, these examples offer a unique and inspiring insight into the thinking behind a final collection. Supported by beautiful imagery and illuminating perspectives from professionals throughout the fashion industry, Fashion Thinking is a book that no aspiring fashion designer should be without!
The Fundamentals of Printed Textile Design
Authors: Russel Alex
Published: September 2016

The Fundamentals of Printed Textile Design explores contemporary practice in printed textile design. It outlines the process of creating designs, looking at the vital role played by drawing, colour, style and content. It also analyses how to contextualise and communicate effectively in order to build a professional portfolio, whether through traditional design staples or via a more original approach. It examines the positions occupied by designers in the industry, and the technical and ethical considerations of which they must be aware.

In order to design effectively, print and pattern practitioners need to understand not only how the industry works but must also consider the cultural and economic factors that can shape what future clients or consumers will require. This book suggests strategies for developing an understanding of these contexts within and beyond the fashion and textiles industry to provide an innovative resource for the designers of today and tomorrow.
Fashion Promotion in Practice
Authors: Cope Jon , Maloney Dennis
Published: September 2016

Fashion lives and dies by stories. Aiming to 'tell the stories of fashion', Fashion Promotion in Practice both instructs and inspires through an entertaining look at contemporary promotional practice within the fashion industry, showing you how you can apply this to your own future brands and campaigns.

Offering crucial insights into the how and why of promotional practice, Fashion Promotion in Practice explores the key issues and main areas of fashion promotion, including fashion film, the democratization of the catwalk, strategic brand collaborations, fashion magazines, celebrity endorsement, curating the fashion space, advertising, public relations, and campaign planning and evaluation. Each chapter also explores the key technologies, events and activities, which have shaped each practice.

Beautifully illustrated, this go-to guide for fashion promotion contains exercises, case studies and interviews with major industry professionals, including Oliviero Toscani, Adam Drawas, Rebecca Grant, Kathryn Ferguson, Georgia Hardinge and Josie Roscopp, Diane Pernet, Andrea Leonardi and Katie Baron, making it a must-read for all those involved in the fashion industry.
A Buyer’s Life
Authors: Connell Dana D.
Published: September 2016

The area of retail buying relies heavily on mathematical formulas and forecasting. The formulas themselves remain unchanged. However, the context in which they are analyzed is constantly evolving. The most successful retail buyers are able to withstand the highs and lows of business trends by utilizing analytical skills, trend forecasting, and customer knowledge. As a retail buyer for almost 20 years with various retailers, Connell draws on her experience providing practical fundamental mathematical formulas while also giving context in the current retail environment. This text gives students a step-by-step approach to understanding the mechanics of a six-month merchandising plan. Upon completion of the plan students will gain insight into how the plan is forecast into the future as well as how it is implemented at the actual purchasing level. the text in the classroom.
Draping for Apparel Design
Authors: Joseph-Armstrong Helen
Published: September 2016

The third edition of Draping for Apparel Design combines Joseph-Armstrong’s classic step-by-step instructions with a user-friendly layout. To show how to turn two-dimensional drawings into three-dimensional garments, the author presents the following three draping principles and techniques: manipulating dart excess, adding fullness, and contour draping. New and updated design projects illustrate how to prepare a draping plan. Design analyses identify the creative elements of each design and help determine draping techniques required to develop patterns. This text emphasizes the importance of draping foundation garments for building more complex designs. Designers will gain essential skills to creatively apply draping techniques to their own designs.
Entrepreneurship in Action
Authors: Regni Rosalie J. , Anderson Jimmie G.
Published: September 2016

Many design students dream of opening a retail store of their own, but the actual process of starting their own business can be quite daunting. Entrepreneurship in Action: A Retail Store Simulation provides an opportunity to practice all the steps necessary to conceptualize, develop, open, and finally operate a business in the safe and nurturing environment of the classroom. As they prepare to open their simulated retail business, students learn how to develop a product and product niche, conduct market research, and find funding and a good location for their store. Most important, when they reach the end of the book, they will have written a complete business plan in a format suitable for submission to a bank or other lending institution. This book brings your enterprising students one step closer to making their dream a reality. Each chapter begins with learning objectives and explains a concept, as well as addresses questions that an entrepreneur would need to ask. An assignment follows that directs the students to think creatively to apply the theoretical knowledge previously introduced. The simulation thus pulls together the content as well as the format of a well-conceived business plan.
Menswear
Authors: Londrigan Michael P.
Published: September 2016

Menswear: Business to Style explores the historical beginnings of menswear, setting the stage for today’s diverse and exciting industry and preparing students to assume a role in the business as it continues to evolve. Drawing on his experiences in menswear, the author discusses design and manufacturing in four main areas: tailored clothing, furnishings, formal wear, and sportswear. The text also covers the principles, procedures, and techniques merchandisers employ to attract their target customers, giving the reader an appreciation of menswear from both a fashion and economic standpoint.
The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers Menswear
Authors: Knowles Lori A.
Published: September 2016

The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers: Menswear offers patternmaking techniques for a variety of garment styles and includes information on sizing, lining and a variety of fabrics. Covering everything from casual to tailored designs, it can serve both as an introduction to the pattern-drafting skills necessary for menswear and as a more in-depth treatment of patternmaking techniques. The guide covers the patternmaking process for an array of menswear garments, as well as the accompanying theories and concepts.
Retailing in the Twenty-First Century
Authors: Diamond Jay , Litt Sheri
Published: September 2016

Retailing in the Twenty-First Century introduces students to the field of retailing with the most current retailing principles and practices. This comprehensive text covers such current shifts as retailers expanding into overseas markets and others repositioning themselves to respond to the latest merchandising and management trends. More and more retailers are reconsidering their customer bases and are focusing on multicultural consumer segments instead of merely relying on the “one size fits all” philosophy of the past. It is vital that both those already in the field and students who will soon enter the field be aware of the retailing principles and practices covered in this textbook.
Surface Design for Fabric
Authors: Irwin Kimberly A.
Published: September 2016

Surface Design for Fabric is a comprehensive, how-to guide to more than 55 surface design techniques for various fabrics and leather—ranging from the traditional to the experimental. Highly illustrated with more than 600 color images, the step-by-step instructions and photographs demonstrate surface design techniques, allowing readers to quickly grasp the material and further explore and experiment on their own. Irwin covers a broad range of surface design techniques including: dyeing, staining, removing color, resists, printing and transfer, fiber manipulation, fabric manipulations, embroidery, and embellishments.

Each chapter begins with a brief description and historical overview of the technique, and includes a fabric selection quick guide, tools and materials, how to set up your workspace, application methods, and safety guidelines for each technique. Photographs and designer biographies showcase surface design techniques used in real-world designs. The final chapter offers advice on how to combine techniques to create commercial and avant-garde surface design. This modern studio resource clearly guides readers in the creation of beautiful, innovative, and professional surface designs.
Key FeaturesVideo Tutorials featuring select techniques from the text available online with access codeDesigner Profiles and Collection Spotlights show current examples of surface design end uses in fashion design, textile art, fine art, and interior designEnvironmental Impact boxes address critical environmental and sustainability issues and concerns for each chapterIncludes helpful hints, important facts, shortcuts and mistakes to avoid throughout chaptersPresented in a spiral binding for easy, stay-flat use in a studio environmentInstructor's ResourcesInstructor's Guide and Test Bank
Survey of Historic Costume
Authors: Tortora Phyllis G. , Marcketti Sara B.
Published: September 2016

Survey of Historic Costume, 6th Edition, is the best-selling introduction to Western dress from the ancient world through the twenty-first century. Each chapter presents social, cross-cultural, environmental, geographic, and artistic influences on clothing. With visuals, illustrated tables, and in-depth discussions, readers come to recognize recurring themes and concepts and understand the role of dress from a diverse, global perspective. The new edition features more than 1,000 full-color photographs and illustrations, a new feature that examines global dress, and a fully updated chapter on the twenty-first century.
New Student ResourcesSurvey of Historic Costume STUDIO features digital study tools such as visual flashcards, self-quizzes, videos, and assignments and activities and includes a free Student Study Guide eBook to help students master concepts and improve grades.New to this EditionChapter Timelines present an overview and images of historic events in each chapter focusing on fashion and textiles, politics and conflicts, decorative and fine arts, economics and trade, technology, and religion.New Global Connections boxed highlights dress and textiles from around the world including China, India, Japan, Latin America, Africa and more.New Chapter 20 covering twenty-first century dress from 2000 to present.Key FeaturesContemporary Comments from contemporary sources provide a sense of the attitude toward clothing of individuals of the period.Modern Influences photo feature explains historic costume is reinterpreted in modern fashion design.Visual Summary Tables show clear line drawing of period garments and Illustrated Tables depict important accessories, footwear and headwear.Companion Survey of Historic Costume Student Study Guide (9781628922349) includes historic snapshots, review questions, summary tables, visual quizzes and glossary of key terms.Teaching ResourcesInstructor's Guide including sample syllabi and units based on the timeline in the book, chapter objectives, lecture notes, discussion questions, additional research projects, assignments, and an answer key for the Student Study Guide.Test Bank with multiple choice, true/false and essay questions for each chapter with answer key.Image Bank with all the illustrations and photos from the text.PowerPoint presentations for each chapter.
Tailoring Techniques for Fashion
Authors: Di Lorenzo Milva Fiorella
Published: September 2016

Integrating text, photographs, and a companion DVD, Tailoring Techniques for Fashion covers traditional and contemporary design and construction methods for tailored garments from ready-to-wear to couture details. Live demonstrations and hundreds of photographs illustrate step-by-step instructions for constructing a tailored skirt, trousers, jacket, and design details using traditional, fusible, machine, and mass-production methods. A history of the tailoring profession and a survey of contemporary tailoring business practices place these techniques in a professional context.
The Visible Self
Authors: Eicher Joanne B. , Evenson Sandra Lee
Published: September 2016

Everywhere around the world, people make daily decisions about what to wear or how to dress. The Visible Self, 4th Edition, presents a systematic approach to analyzing daily rituals that we all share not simply the act of putting on clothing, but also the method of cleansing the body and adorning it. Using Western and non-Western examples, the authors take a three-pronged approach to understanding dress across cultures, uncovering its relationship to human beings as biological, aesthetic, and social beings. Readings collected from classic books and academic journals enable students to appreciate the complexity of dress from a multidisciplinary perspective that includes anthropology, sociology, economics, fine arts, and the natural sciences. This new edition covers topics including social media, social responsibility, eco-fashion, plus subcultures and trends such as cosplay, making it a relevant resource for studying dress. New to this Edition: - Newly organized Part III uses John Bodley’s revised analysis of sociocultural systems to relate to dress and fashion across the world - New reading by John Vollmer in Part III on the Qing Dynasty of China - Revised and expanded art program, including 65 new photographs
World Wise
Authors: Denslow Lanie
Published: September 2016

Targeting the global business practitioner, this book bridges the gap between buttoned-up culture textbooks and flippant how-to guides about global business and communication. World Wise covers topics ranging from general etiquette to business philosophies in specific regions of the world. It is suitable both for the seasoned professional involved in international business, hoping to sharpen skills, and the newcomer to the global business scene. Denslow seeks to help the reader overcome common cultural misunderstandings and establish effective working relationships around the world.
Your Personal Style
Authors: Plummer Nancy
Published: September 2016

Packed with fashion tips that serve as a handy guide for students and professionals alike, Your Personal Style uses an active learning approach to teach what a fashion consultant does. Author Nancy Plummer shares an intimate knowledge of how the design and fashion merchandising industry best suits the client. The book is divided into five parts, all of which build upon each other. Unlike other image management texts, which simply dictate general rules about body type and coloring, this book uses personality and lifestyle assessment as a method for guiding readers in establishing a style that is truly their own.
The Design Process
Authors: Aspelund Karl
Published: September 2016

No extract of this content is available for preview
Designing
Authors: Aspelund Karl
Published: September 2016

No extract of this content is available for preview
Fashion Retailing
Authors: Diamond Jay , Diamond Ellen , Litt Sheri
Published: September 2016

No extract of this content is available for preview
The Art of Couture Sewing
Authors: Nudelman Zoya
Published: September 2016

The Art of Couture Sewing is a practical guide to custom techniques in the construction of couture garments. Beginning with a brief history of haute couture, the book covers tools and supplies then discusses matching fabrics with the appropriate needle, thread, pressing, and construction techniques. The types of closures, hems and finishes used in couture as well as basic draping techniques are discussed. The text is filled with step-by-step techniques along with clear instructions and illustrations.

Nudelman covers many embellishment techniques, including beading, embroidering, and fine stitching with added sections on shisha, couching, eyelet overcasting and ribbon rosette stitches. Highly illustrated with photographs of couture designs as well as close-ups of finishes and details, The Art of Couture Sewing will inspire the design of high-quality garments using couture techniques.
Not all feldspars are equal: a survey of ice nucleating properties
across the feldspar group of minerals
Authors: Harrison Alexander D. , Whale Thomas F. , Carpenter Michael A. , Holden Mark A. , Neve Lesley , O'Sullivan Daniel , Vergara Temprado Jesus , Murray Benjamin J.
Published: September 2016

Abstract. Mineral dust particles from wind-blown soils are known to act as effective ice nucleating particles in the atmosphere and are thought to play an important role in the glaciation of mixed phase clouds. Recent work suggests that feldspars are the most efficient nucleators of the minerals commonly present in atmospheric mineral dust. However, the feldspar group of minerals is complex, encompassing a range of chemical compositions and crystal structures. To further investigate the ice-nucleating properties of the feldspar group we measured the ice nucleation activities of 15 characterized feldspar samples. We show that alkali feldspars, in particular the potassium feldspars, generally nucleate ice more efficiently than feldspars in the plagioclase series which contain significant amounts of calcium. We also find that there is variability in ice nucleating ability within these groups. While five out of six potassium-rich feldspars have a similar ice nucleating ability, one potassium rich feldspar sample and one sodium-rich feldspar sample were significantly more active. The hyper-active Na-feldspar was found to lose activity with time suspended in water with a decrease in mean freezing temperature of about 16 °C over 16 months; the mean freezing temperature of the hyper-active K-feldspar decreased by 2 °C over 16 months, whereas the "standard" K-feldspar did not change activity within the uncertainty of the experiment. These results, in combination with a review of the available literature data, are consistent with the previous findings that potassium feldspars are important components of arid or fertile soil dusts for ice nucleation. However, we also show that there is the possibility that some alkali feldspars may have enhanced ice nucleating abilities, which could have implications for prediction of ice nucleating particle concentrations in the atmosphere.
Effects of ozone-vegetation coupling on surface ozone air quality via biogeochemical and meteorological feedbacks
Authors: Sadiq Mehliyar , Tai Amos P. K. , Lombardozzi Danica , Val Martin Maria
Published: September 2016

Abstract. Tropospheric ozone is one of the most hazardous air pollutants as it harms both human health and plant productivity. Foliage uptake of ozone via dry deposition damages photosynthesis and causes stomatal closure. These foliage changes could lead to a cascade of biogeochemical and biogeophysical effects that not only modulate the carbon cycle, regional hydrometeorology and climate, but also cause feedbacks onto surface ozone concentration itself. In this study, we implement a semi-empirical parameterization of ozone damage on vegetation in the Community Earth System Model to enable online ozone-vegetation coupling, so that for the first time ecosystem structure and ozone concentration can coevolve in fully coupled land-atmosphere simulations. With ozone-vegetation coupling, present-day surface ozone is simulated to be higher by up to 6 ppbv over Europe, North America and China. Reduced dry deposition velocity following ozone damage contributes to ~ 40–100 % of those increases, constituting a significant positive biogeochemical feedback on ozone air quality. Enhanced biogenic isoprene emission is found to contribute to most of the remaining increases, and is driven mainly by higher vegetation temperature that results from lower transpiration rate. This isoprene-driven pathway represents an indirect, positive meteorological feedback. The reduction in both dry deposition and transpiration is mostly associated with reduced stomatal conductance following ozone damage, whereas the modification of photosynthesis and further changes in ecosystem productivity (which are significant per se) are found to play a smaller role in contributing to the ozone-vegetation feedbacks. Our results highlight the need to consider two-way ozone-vegetation coupling in Earth system models to derive a more complete understanding and yield more reliable future predictions of ozone air quality.
Urbanization effect on sunshine duration during global dimming and
brightening periods in China
Authors: Wang Yawen , Wild Martin , Sanchez-Lorenzo Arturo , Yang Yonghui , Manara Veronica , Ren Dandan
Published: September 2016

Abstract. There is an ongoing debate on whether the observed decadal variations in surface solar radiation, known as "dimming and brightening", are a global or just local phenomenon. We investigated this issue using a comprehensive set of long-term sunshine duration records from China, which experienced a rapid growth in urbanization during past decades. 172 pairs of urban and nearby rural stations were analyzed over the period 1960–1989 ("dimming phase") and 1990–2013 ("brightening phase"). There is a large overlap in urban and rural sunshine duration trends for both dimming (≈ 86 %) and brightening (≈ 84 %) phases. This indicates that rather than urban dimming or rural brightening, the global dimming and brightening phenomena are more of national/regional scale in China. In the dimming phase, sunshine duration significantly declined in both urban and rural areas at an average rate of −0.20 h d−1 decade−1 and −0.14 h d−1 decade−1 respectively, i.e. rural dimming has been around two-thirds of urban dimming. This ratio generally increases from a minimum of 0.39 to a maximum of 0.87 with increasing indices of urbanization, reaching saturation when the urbanization level exceeds 50 %, or the urban population exceeds 20 million persons, or the population density becomes higher than 250 person km−2. Urbanization can be treated as a useful indicator for anthropogenic air pollution in studying pollution-driven changes in sunshine duration during the dimming phase when pollution control and monitoring were largely absent. After the transition into the brightening phase, the increasing number of environment-related laws and regulations as well as investments in the abatement of environmental pollution might have helped in counteracting air pollutants generated during the urbanization process. Therefore, in the brightening phase, urbanization no longer simply indicates an increase in air pollution and its effect on sunshine duration becomes insignificant. In conclusion, urbanization can give a general indication of pollution-driven sunshine dimming until pollution regulations become effective.
Antarctic Ozone Depletion between 1960 and 1980 in Observations
and Chemistry-Climate Model Simulations
Authors: Langematz Ulrike , Schmidt Franziska , Kunze Markus , Braesicke Peter , Bodeker Gregory E.
Published: September 2016

Abstract. The year 1980 has often been used as a benchmark for the return of Antarctic ozone to conditions assumed to be unaffected by emissions of ozone depleting substances (ODSs), implying that anthropogenic ozone depletion in Antarctica started around 1980. Here, the extent of anthropogenically-driven Antarctic ozone depletion prior to 1980 is examined using output from transient Chemistry-Climate Model (CCM) simulations from 1960 to 2000 with prescribed changes of ozone depleting substance concentrations in conjunction with observations. A regression model is used to attribute CCM modelled and observed changes in Antarctic total column ozone to halogen-driven chemistry prior to 1980. Winter-time Antarctic ozone is strongly affected by dynamical processes that vary in amplitude from year to year and from model to model. However, when the dynamical and chemical impacts on ozone are separated, all models consistently show a long-term, halogen-induced negative trend in Antarctic ozone from 1960 to 1980. The anthropogenically-driven ozone loss from 1960 to 1980 ranges between 26.4 ± 3.4 % and 49.8 ± 6.2 % of the total anthropogenic ozone depletion from 1960 to 2000. An even stronger ozone decline of 56.4 ± 6.8 % was estimated from ozone observations. This analysis of the observations and simulations from 17 CCMs clarifies that while the return of Antarctic ozone to 1980 values remains a valid milestone, achieving that milestone is not indicative of full recovery of the Antarctic ozone layer from the effects of ODSs.