bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Things Change: Trends in Austrian Football Hooliganism from 1977–1990
Authors: Horak Roman
Published: August 2010

The essay argues that the European phenomenon of football hooliganism should be discussed in the context of the process of internationalization and standardization of youth subcultures. In outlining general developmental steps soccer hooliganism in Austria is being discussed to illustrate this argument. The essay distinguishes three different ‘fan-generations’ which came into being in a context of changing social conditions especially regarding the social circumstances, the situation of the job market, a changing security policy, changes in the sport itself as well as general international influences. Focusing on the specific internal structures of the different fan cultures the essay describes each of these ‘generations’ separately and tries to answer the following questions:

Can we detect fundamental changes in the styles, norms and moral standards of the fans within these subcultures since they first appeared in the seventies? Can we detect changes in the environment which the fans live in, and, if so, in which way do these changes affect the fans? Can we detect generation gaps within the fan-population? In which way does the change from one generation to the next proceed?

Finally, the essay gives a description of the present situation, which is characterized by the existence of a ‘postmodern’ mixture of various styles. Against a generally peaceful background a tendency of a new (self)destructive violence can be seen among very young (13, 14, 15 years of age) supporters in the cities of Vienna and Linz.
Social Work, Modernity and Post Modernity
Authors: McBeath Graham B. , Webb Stephen A.
Published: August 2010

In this article we argue that current reform proposals coming from Robert Pinker and others are challenging the universalist premises of generic social work. Pinker et al. argue that social work should, for the sake of efficiency and performance, be a connected set of specialist activities. This ‘determinate dispersal’ which we recognise as falling within the remit of postmodern strategies, we contrast with the far more libertarian ideas of the noted post-modern theorist J.F. Lyotard. Thus we site the political and cultural meanings of Pinker's ideas between generic social work which upholds ideas of universal ethical values and universal provision, and those of Lyotard whose anti-foundationalism proposes a radically heterogeneous society with no central value-structure.

We express our concern that the ‘new specialist’ remit may allow too much power to the social worker. Thus we have considerable sympathy for Lyotard's call for a radical anonistics – a field wherein the inequalities of power between say, a worker and her client, to some extent can be redressed.
Management Consultants: Systems Development, Power and the Translation of Problems
Authors: Bloomfield Brian P. , Best Ardha
Published: August 2010

This paper aims to shed light on the exercise of power during the development and implementation of organisational information systems. Considering the use of Information Technology (IT) to help solve organisational problems, we employ the concept of the ‘sociology of translation’ to theorise the process by which the organisational problem is constituted and for which the appropriate IT solution is proposed. Discussing the nature of the power relationship between external management consultants in IT and client or user organisations, the paper considers the role of symbolic resources such as managerial discourse, and the differential access to IT knowledge and skills, as important aspects of power in that relationship.
Soil, Blood and Identity
Authors: Bauman Zygmunt
Published: August 2010

Modern nations are products of nationalism, and can be defined only as such, rather than by their own distinctive traits – which anyway vary over an extremely wide range. Nationalism was, sociologically, an attempt made by the modern elites to recapture the allegiance (in the form of cultural hegemony) of the ‘masses’ produced by the early modern transformations and particularly by the cultural rupture between the elites and the rest of the population by the ‘civilizing process’, whose substance was the self-constitution and the self-separation of new elites legitimizing their status by reference to superior culture and knowledge. In the same way in which the modern state needed nationalism for the ‘primitive accumulation’ of authority, nationalism needed coercive powers of the state to promote the postulated dissolution of communal identities in the uniform identity of the nation. In the practice of both, there was an unallayed tension between the ‘inclusivist’ and ‘exclusivists’ prongs of the nation-state project; hence the never fully effaced link between nationalism and racism, nationalism being the racism of the intellectuals, and racism -the nationalism of the masses. Currently our part of the world undergoes the process of the separation between state and nation, effected by lesser reliance of state power on culturalist legitimation and a degree of de-territorialization of communal affiliations, which fills the efforts of nation-building, invention of heritage, tribal integration etc. with a new urgency and may lead to the sharpening of either of the two prongs of the nationalist project.
Social Identities, Class Identity and Political Perspectives
Authors: Devine Fiona
Published: August 2010

There has been considerable controversy over the extent to which class is a salient social identity, and the importance of other social identities. Marshall and his colleagues (1988) argue that class identity remains a salient frame of reference in people's daily lives while Saunders (1989; 1990) and Emmison and Western (1990) argue that class identity is not as strong as they claim, and the importance of other social identities cannot be denied. However, proponents and opponents in the debate are agreed that the salience of social identities depends upon the context in which they are found which cannot be fully explored in highly-structured interviews. Drawing on data from a ‘qualitative re-study’ of the Affluent Worker series, it will be argued that people have many different identities, including a strong class identity, which co-exist at the same time. That said, their class identity is the most important influence on the formation of political perspectives. This finding concurs with the Essex team and Saunders even though he has sought to distance himself from this conclusion.
The Vegetarian Option: Varieties, Conversions, Motives and Careers
Authors: Beardsworth Alan , Keil Teresa
Published: August 2010

This paper reports the findings of a qualitative study of the dietary beliefs and practices of a ‘snowball sample’ of seventy-six vegetarians and vegans. The dynamics of the process of conversion are examined, along with respondents' accounts of their motives and of the impact of their dietary stance upon their relationships with kin, friends and colleagues. The study's findings, which appear to indicate the central importance of ethical considerations for this particular response group, are set in the context of broader debates concerning the sociological dimensions of the selection or avoidance of specific food items.
Careers and Partnerships: The Strategies of Secondary Headteachers
Authors: Evetts Julia
Published: August 2010

This paper considers the importance of the personal dimension in individuals' experiences of careers in teaching. The career and partnership strategies of a group of twenty comprehensive headteachers, ten women and ten men, are classified into three main types: single career, dual career and marital breakdown. The concept of ‘strategy’ is discussed and the main alternative strategies within the three types are described. Finally, gender differences in respect of career/partnership strategies are suggested.
Research Notes: The Effects of Research on Participants: Findings from a Study of Mothers and Employment
Authors: Brannen Julia
Published: August 2010

The article explores a neglected topic – the effects of research on participants. At the end of a three year longitudinal research project concerning mothers return to the labour market after maternity leave, participants (mothers) were asked to assess their experiences of taking part in the research process. The paper examines three particular aspects of the research process which have important consequences for participants: the theoretical framework and research design, the research methods, and the study findings. A situation where there is a close match between the concerns and characteristics of the researchers and the researched is likely to benefit the project and participants alike.
Renegotiating the Domestic Division of Labour? A Study of Dual Career Households in North East and South East England
Authors: Gregson Nicky , Lowe Michelle
Published: August 2010

This paper is concerned with extending debate on the renegotiation of the domestic division of labour within the context of contemporary economic restructuring. Our focus is on a form of household which is becoming increasingly common in Britain in the 1990s. This is the dual career household, in which both partners are in full time professional/managerial employment. A sample of 71 households drawn from the North east and South east, forms the basis for the study. The paper is divided into three main sections. In the first we establish a typology of forms of the domestic division of labour, as well as a means of allocating individual households to particular forms of the domestic division of labour. Then we move on to discuss the degree of variation in particular forms of the domestic division of labour found within our sample households and illustrate these with reference to five case studies. In our final section we consider the implications of our findings for the respective arguments of Lydia Morris and Jane Wheelock; point to the significance of gender identities to an understanding of between household variation in form of the domestic division of labour; and suggest how our findings shed light on the debate over women and social class.
Popular Attitudes to the Transition to a Market Economy in the Soviet Union on the Eve of Reform
Authors: Clarke Simon
Published: August 2010

This paper surveys a wide range of Soviet opinion poll data, mostly collected between the middle of 1990 and the middle of 1991, to investigate attitudes to the transition to the market economy. The majority of the population welcomed the transition to a market economy as the only means of freeing themselves from an oppressive system, and were willing to pay a high price for their liberation, but they were not willing to exchange one form of exploitation for another.
Labour and Racism: Trade Unions and the Selection of Parliamentary Candidates
Authors: Back Les , Solomos John
Published: August 2010

The issue of the representation of minorities in political institutions has become central in recent debates about the political sociology of race in British society. This paper uses a case study of a selection process for a prospective parliamentary candidate for the Labour Party to explore the dynamics of recent developments. It explores the following questions: What impact have minority activists had on processes of candidate selection? How have political parties responded to demands for the selection of more black candidates?
Isolated Housewives and Complex Maternal Worlds — The Significance of Social Contacts between Women with Young Children in Industrial Societies
Authors: Bell Linda , Ribbens Jane
Published: August 2010

This article reconsiders the picture of the mother of young children in industrialised societies as the ‘isolated housewife’, suggesting this notion is by no means straightforward. We suggest there is considerable evidence for the existence of mothers' social contacts and their significance both as ‘work’ and ‘friendship’ in industrial societies. A pre-occupation with the notion of the ‘isolation’ of ‘housewives’ has led social researchers to neglect sustained examination of the social relationships within which many/most mothers are involved on a day-to-day basis. Complexities of interpretation, for example what ‘isolation’ can actually mean, need to be drawn out from the existing literature. Evidence presented from two recent ethnographic studies shows patterned opportunities/constraints occurring in relation to mothers' social contacts within localised settings, whether through organised groups or other personal ties. The complex nature of individual women's social contacts is thus brought out. Some key questions are raised for the importance to sociology, anthropology and social policy of these apparently insignificant or invisible women's networks.
The Managed Heart Revisited: Health and Social Control
Authors: O'Brien Martin
Published: August 2010

In this paper I investigate emotional labour in the field of nursing. I show how new ideologies of health promotion have become attached to the prior agenda and already-embedded relationships which structure health provision. Beginning with an outline of health promotion principles and policies the paper goes on to trace how the radical dimensions of health promotion philosophies are subverted in practice by discussing data from a research project into nursing roles in health promotion. I present the data to show how nursing's focus on relationships and relationship skills create divisions of knowledge and information between ‘expert’ discourses located in the institutions of health provision and the everyday agenda of the populations using their services. In the final section of the paper I argue that a focus on the deployment of emotion work in specific social and institutional contexts provides a perspective on emotions as resources that are consciously drawn upon by actors in order to achieve socio-cultural and wider political ends.
Preliminary Observations on Globalisation and the Migration of Sport Labour
Authors: Maguire Joseph
Published: August 2010

Focusing on sport labour migration, several broader issues regarding labour migration and globalisation are highlighted. The observations made, and the connections drawn, will be somewhat preliminary in nature. Several dimensions and issues of sport labour migration and globalisation are examined. A range of sports in different societies and across continents are also considered. This migration must be viewed as part of other global cultural flows. Discussion of these flows precedes the case study that focuses on the role of, and the resistance to, American sport labour migrants in the commodification of English basketball over the past two decades, the paper concludes by drawing together the strands of sport migration and global sport development.

It's still England against Scotland, no matter who's playing, but the rivalry is born into the British lads. The Canadians tell you they're British when they get a British passport. That might be so but it doesn't make them English or Scottish. The Guardian, 29th January 1993, p. 15.
Young People and the Division of Labour in Farming Families
Authors: Wallace Claire , Dunkerley David , Cheal Brian , Warren Martyn
Published: August 2010

The family farm has been identified as the main unit of agricultural production in Britain and it has been widely studied as an economic unit in agricultural research. However, it is also a social unit: one with a division of labour based upon gender and generation. Here we will consider a relatively unexplored area of agricultural production: the contribution of children to the family farm, based upon a quantitative survey of young people in a rural area and detailed qualitative interviews. The approach is to look at the farm family in terms of a ‘household work strategy’ although in the paper we argue that this should take into account the importance of moral obligation and patriarchal ideology. The importance of gender and generation are explored as intersecting factors in the division of labour.
‘Race’, Employment and Equal Opportunities: Towards a Political Economy and an Agenda for the 1990s
Authors: Jewson Nick , Mason David
Published: August 2010

This paper attempts to provide a broad overview of the recent history of equal opportunities, particularly of work-place policies and programmes directed towards ethnic minorities. It identifies three main stages in the recent history of equal opportunities at the work-place and seeks to connect these with an analysis of the economic arrangements and dominant political philosophies characteristic of each phase. The paper concludes by noting that there is currently a widespread view that equal opportunities policies represents a happy coincidence of principle and expediency for firms in the 1990s. It suggests that whilst a number of trends with the potential to realise this promise can be discerned, other outcomes are possible. Writing in mid-1992, it remains to be seen whether the new rhetoric of citizenship and business efficiency can secure both the continuing commitment of those with the power to make changes and the enduring support of the disadvantaged.
Food, Memory and Meaning: The Symbolic and Social Nature of Food Events
Authors: Lupton Deborah
Published: August 2010

Food preparation and consumption practices are considered integral to the maintenance or deterioration of bodily health. As a consequence, individuals in western societies are regularly exhorted to follow health guidelines in their everyday diets. However many fail to heed this advice. Various reasons have been proposed for lack of behavioural change, but few have fully considered the social function and symbolic meanings of food and eating.

This paper presents the findings of an exploratory study using the innovative qualitative research method of memory-work to uncover the meanings surrounding food practices in developed societies. The data used are childhood memories about food written by students at an Australian university. The memories are examined for common themes and patterns, revealing important aspects of the ways in which food contributes to social relationships and cultural practices. The findings provide explanations for individuals' adherence to certain eating habits and avoidance of others, and point the way towards the further application of memory-work to elucidate the meanings and symbolic role played by food in western societies.
Boys' Thoughts and Talk about Sex in a Working Class Locality of Glasgow
Authors: Wight Daniel
Published: August 2010

This paper analyses data on sexuality from ethnographic research and from group discussions and in-depth interviews with 58 14–16 year old males in two schools. The research was carried out in a working class locality (Brockhill) in Glasgow, Scotland. Fourteen to sixteen year old boys in Brockhill lead homosocial lives and learn about sex and develop their sexual identities almost entirely from males. Heterosexuality is taken-for-granted as the cultural norm. There is considerable ambivalence about heterosexual sex, however, because of the gulf between male and female worlds, the inconsistencies between the dominant norm of teenage male sexuality and the boys' own personal experiences and emotions, and the vulnerability of their sexual identities. Although most boys conform to the convention of talking about sex in a way that objectifies women and focuses on male gratification, this discourse does not always reflect their more private views, particularly amongst those most familiar with girls. Several of these latter respondents expressed frustration with the passive role to which girls usually conform. There is a strong sense of the social construction of sexuality, but resignation to the idea that existing norms are inevitable.
Notes on Materiality and Sociality
Authors: Law John , Mol Annemarie
Published: August 2010

In this paper it is argued that materiality and sociality are produced together. In order to explore the implications of this suggestion, three metaphors are developed through a series of note-like stories. The first is that of semiotics. This suggests that materials are relational effects. The second is that of strategy. Here it is suggested that strategy is recursively and reflexively implicated in the performance of materiality. And the third is that of the patchwork. This is a way of exploring the possibility that though material and social relations might be matters of local performance, they may not ‘add up’ to form an overall pattern or structure.
Understanding Variation in Marital Sexual Pleasure: An Impossible Task?
Authors: O'Connor Pat
Published: August 2010

Over the past twenty years, sociologists have begun to explore the social and cultural context within which sexual relationships are constructed and in Western society, given such importance. However, although it is commonly recognised that the contraceptive pill has changed the meaning of sexuality (Giddens, 1992; Ferguson, 1989) comparatively little attention has been paid to locating the level of pleasure married women derive from marital sex within the situational, structural and cultural parameters of their lives.

The material in this paper is based on intensive interviews with 60 married women, aged 20–42 years old and randomly selected from the records of general medical practitioners in North London. The paper indicates that methodological squeamishness about the viability of a study of sexual pleasure is unwarranted. It shows that only just over one third of these respondents had a high level of sexual pleasure on the scale devised in the study (weighted kappa = .89). For the most part, such pleasure was not associated with other aspects of the marital relationship. Drawing on illustrative material, it locates such pleasure within the context of their marital and family situation and suggests future lines of enquiry.
Allocation of Resources in Households: Children's Perspectives
Authors: O'Brien Margaret
Published: August 2010

This paper incorporates children's perspectives on the issue of resource distribution in households. It is part of a relatively new trend of sociological explorations into childhood. The paper aims to review earlier studies and literature on children's access to money, food, space and time. The data illuminates norms governing distributive justice between adults and children in families.
Contemplating a Postmodern Sociology: Genealogy, Limits and Critique
Authors: Pavlich George
Published: August 2010

As its title suggests, this paper explores certain directions a specifically postmodern sociology (rather than say a sociology of postmodernism) might take. It reinterprets Gouldner's prescient warnings of a crisis in ‘academic’ sociology as an expression of despair within modern sociology. In particular, three important ‘contradictions’ are examined as possible points of departure for a postmodern sociological discourse. Foucault's genealogical approach, it is argued, is useful in helping to orientate any attempts to develop a sociology of this kind. The analysis concludes by anticipating possible objections, showing how these might profitably be incorporated into future enquiries. The aim of the paper is not to offer concrete enunciations for a postmodern sociology, but to develop more modest rules of thumb through which such a discourse might be erected.
Managerial Discourse and the Restructuring of a District Authority
Authors: Maile Stella
Published: August 2010

This paper arises out of continuing debates on the class position of managers and professionals in the context of public sector restructuring. Recently, attention has been focused on the self-sustaining and autonomous character of ‘professionalism’ in organisational dynamics. Such an approach underplays the cultural significance of managerial discourse as this is active in the reconstitution of professional work. In a case study of a district authority it is possible to highlight the complex nature of managerial discourse in its relations to both central and local government. This relation is above all mediated by shifting conceptions of public service on the part of managers and those in non-managerial positions. The paper concludes that due to the structural constraints under which local authorities operate directly managerial discourse is becoming increasingly significant in the reconstitution of professional and semi-professional identities.
Up-Skilling and the Intensification of Work: The ‘Extended Role’ in Intensive Care Nursing and Midwifery
Authors: Harvey Janet
Published: August 2010

In his seminal work Braverman (1974) suggested that, like manual workers, the majority of ‘non-productive’ workers are equally subject to scrutiny and Tayloristic methods of rationalisation and differentiation (sub-division of work into simple, repetitive operations) of the tasks they perform. The result is ‘de-skilling’ whereby labour is reduced to the repetitive performance of mechanical tasks and an intensification of work is achieved. Following the debate that has arisen from Braverman's work, concentrating largely on either de-skilling and/or strategies of management control, there have been wide-ranging qualifications to Braverman's core theory. I wish to suggest that ‘up-skilling’ (as opposed to de-skilling) may also represent an intensification of work, since the terms and conditions under which skill is enhanced is centrally relevant. This is argued in relation to the ‘extended role’ functions of midwives and Intensive Care nurses, whereby the tasks normally carried out by doctors are performed in a proxy capacity by nurses/midwives, while remaining in the ‘ownership’ of the medical profession. In the course of the above discussion, the article explores the way in which the sexual division of labour (between the female gendered profession of nursing and the male gendered medical profession) changed but survived in a negotiated form.
Face to Face with the ‘Sovereign Consumer’: Service Quality and the Changing Role of Professional Academic Librarians
Authors: Davies Annette , Kirkpatrick Ian
Published: August 2010

This article considers the impact of service quality initiatives on the role of professional academic librarians.1 It is argued that these initiatives – by asserting the dominant role of ‘sovereign’ consumers – offer a powerful legitimating device which is currently being used to support radical changes in professional work. One possible outcome of this is a weakening of professional autonomy and power to unilaterally determine levels and standards of service. The case of academic librarians is adopted to illustrate these points. Firstly, two ideal types of library and professional organisation, developed from a review of the librarian literature, are compared. These are the ‘traditional’ and the ‘service quality-led’ models. Following this, a case study of an academic library which has recently adopted various quality improvement strategies is discussed. The results of this investigation suggest that not only have service quality initiatives provided a legitimation for radical change, but they have also generated a number of unintended consequences and hidden costs for the users of library services. Finally, some of the wider problems associated with service quality initiatives in the public sector are discussed.
Sociology and the Case for Realism
Authors: New Caroline
Published: August 2010

It is argued that in the present era of ecological threat we need a critical sociology, which requires a realist ontology. Using Beck's Risk society as an example, I maintain that to the extent that postmodernist sociology rejects realism, its critical and substantive potential is compromised. The second half of the article argues that realism must extend also to moral positions, which are assessed in terms of knowledge of the natural and social world. Through various examples it shows that while postmodernist thinkers reject meta-narratives and universal truth, they are inevitably moral realist in practice when talking politics. Contra Bauman, sociology cannot dispense with the project of emancipation. The moral realist discourse of human needs permits us to move from statements about the world to recommendations for action.
Is This the end? Organising Identity as a Post-Modern Means to a Modernist End
Authors: Coates Grant
Published: August 2010

Many analyses have focused on the extent to which processes of Japanisation have affected power relations (Sewell and Wilkinson, 1992), commitment relations (Chonko, 1988) and health relations (Strauss et al., 1982) within organisations. There has, however, been less of a focus on the uses post-modern forms of work organisation make of individual identity. This paper attempts with the use of case study material, to show how organisations seek to modify individuals' identities to match those of their companies. It illustrates a situation in which despite forward sounding rhetoric, organisations are still seeking to gain control over individuals, rather than share in a partnership with them; but in which, also, individual employees can still resist, despite hard economic times.
War and the Contest over National Identity
Authors: Coles Roberta L.
Published: August 2010

This paper looks at a recent historical moment in which the American national identity was defined and contested in the public arena. The Persian Gulf crisis of 1990–91 presents a case in point in which official actors attempted to define the American character and in so doing prescribed particular actions necessary to fulfill what it means to be an American confidence. He described Americans as unique in esteemed values and America as the only country capable of leading the world. In so doing, he invited American participation in support for US military intervention. On the other side, the peace movement chose to emphasize American weaknesses, domestic problems, and the gullible nature of the American people. In so doing it attempted to shame Americans into supporting the anti-war movement.
Deontological Restrictions and the Self/Other Asymmetry
Authors: Alm David
Published: August 2010

This paper offers a partial justification of so‐called “deontological restrictions.” Specifically it defends the “self/other asymmetry,” that we are morally obligated to treat our own agency, and thus its results, as specially important. The argument rests on a picture of moral obligation of a broadly Kantian sort. In particular, it rests on the basic normative assumption that our fundamental obligations are determined by the principles which a rational being as such would follow. These include principles which it is not essential for rational beings to accept, but acceptance of which we could non‐arbitrarily attribute to them simply in their capacity as rational. Among these principles is the asymmetry mentioned above.
Ecological Aspects of Water Usage in the Textile Industry
Authors: DORIC G.
Published: August 2010

From cave drawings and from records preserved on clay tablets, the history of man's use of textiles can be traced back to well before the birth of Christ. Obviously the quantities per head of population required for clothing and other purposes were then minute compared with those of today, and their production and processing was unlikely to have caused any ecological problems. When considering that over the last thousand years alone the world's population has increased more than tenfold, and in that time, the demand for clothing has grown out of all proportion, it can be seen that the process is bound to have left its mark.
The Application of Colour Measurement
Authors: GUTHRIE J. C. , MOIR JEAN
Published: August 2010

Earlier review papers by Hunt [I] and McLaren [2] have dealt with the basic principles of colour measurement and its application to the measurement of colour difference, respectively. This paper is mainly an attempt to assess the present situation on instrumental recipe prediction, but it also includes topics such as whiteness and fluorescence, metamerism, blends of coloured fibres, and the production of colour‐separation transparencies in printing. Colour differences are used at various stages of the recipe prediction procedure.
The Dyeing and Finishing of Circular‐knitted Cotton and Cotton Blends
Authors: RICHARDSON G. A.
Published: August 2010

This paper reviews the major recent developments in the field of dyeing and finishing of knitted fabrics and the market and economic forces which have influenced them.

These are identified as the fast growing demand for leisure and sports wear, with cotton and cotton blends finding major consumer preference, and the rapid escalation in costs for energy; water, effluent treatment and oil‐based dyes and chemicals.
Continuous Dyeing
Authors: SHORE JOHN
Published: August 2010

The review concentrates on the period 1973‐79 and is restricted to fully‐continuous methods, i.e. semi‐continuous processes such as pad‐batch or pad‐roll are not considered. An indication of the major trends of development during this period is given.

The most important section relates the form in which the substrate is dyed to the type of equipment used: topics include the continuous dyeing of (a) undrawn synthetic filaments in the gel state, (b) warp yams, (c) conventional woven and knitted fabrics, (d) carpets. Developments in low pick‐up techniques of application, such as foam‐padding, loop‐transfer and spray methods, as well as in fixation and washing processes, are discussed.

A much shorter section on non‐aqueous methods follows. me large number of patents referring to continuous dyeing from organic solvents and dating mainly from early in the period covered by the review are mentioned briefly. The more promising recent development of the combined dyeing and mercerizing of cotton in liquid ammonia is given attention.

The third section is concerned mainly with developments in dyes, auxiliaries and process sequences in continuous dyeing. Unlike the earlier sections, it is subdivided according to the major fibre types: wool and nylon, cellulosic fibres, polyester‐cellulosic blends.

The concluding paragraphs reiterate the major themes, with an attempt to indicate possible future trends in continuous dyeing.
The Coloration of Metals
Authors: Barnes C
Published: August 2010

The traditional recipes for metal coloration are briefly mentioned and the problems associated with these processes are discussed. The important developments since 1945 are reviewed; particular attention is paid to the industrial processes that have become established for the coloration of aluminium, stainless steel, zinc and gold. Processes for the blackening of metals for use as solar collectors are also discussed.
Some innovative uses of dyes
Authors: Jones F
Published: August 2010

‘The ultimate catastrophe is when theory supersedes practice’: Leonardo da Vinci
Stain blockers for nylon fibres
Authors: Cooke Theodore F , Weigmann Hans‐Dietrich
Published: August 2010

The literature on stain blockers, which are employed for reducing the staining of nylon fibres used in carpeting, has been reviewed. These compounds include the reaction products of sulphonated phenolic compounds and formaldehyde. They may be applied as a spin finish immediately after the extrusion of the nylon fibres or to the fibres after the carpets have been made. The composition of stain blockers, the methods of application to nylon fibre and the resulting properties are described. Mechanisms to explain the action of stain blockers are discussed.
Colour in prosthetic facial reconstruction
Authors: Roberts A C
Published: August 2010

‘We restore, repair and make whole those parts of the face which nature has given but which fortune has taken away, not so much that they may delight the eye, but that they may buoy up the spirit and help the mind of the afflicted’. Gaspare Taglacozzi 1546‐99
Adsorbable organic halogens in textile effluents
Authors: Müller Bettina M
Published: August 2010

In recent years legislation on environmental pollution has become more and more stringent. The parameter AOX (adsorbable organic halogen) was developed for the detection of organohalogens in drinking water and effluents. In this paper restrictions on the discharge of various chemicals into waste water are reviewed. In the first part of the paper a survey on the history of AOX and the associated legislation is presented. The second part summarises the work that has been done on bleaching of cellulose pulp and focuses on AOX generation in cotton and wool finishing.
Environmental aspects of flame‐retardant textiles ‐an overview
Authors: Roberts D L , Hall M E , Horrocks A R
Published: August 2010

Industries throughout the world are being compelled into reviewing their manufacturing processes and disposal techniques because of the implementation of stricter regulations by local and national governments. This paper will attempt to outline some of the areas of concern regarding flame‐retardant textiles and highlight areas that require stricter control. In considering a full environmental audit of any chosen flame‐retardant textile, comparisons between competing products are neither simple nor, at present, possible. Environmental audits for current flame‐retardant finished cotton and inherently flame‐retardant polyester are undertaken and compared in order to illustrate this complexity. Any given product appears to have a similar environmental impact to others of the same generic type.
The Canadian macroeconomy and the yield curve: an equilibrium‐based approach
Authors: Garcia René , Luger Richard
Published: August 2010

Abstract.  The authors develop and estimate an equilibrium‐based model of the Canadian term structure of interest rates. The proposed model incorporates a vector‐autoregression description of key macroeconomic dynamics and links them to those of the term structure, where identifying restrictions are based on the first‐order conditions that describe the representative investor's optimal consumption and portfolio plan. A remarkable result is that the in‐sample average pricing errors obtained with the equilibrium‐based model are only slightly larger than those obtained with a far more flexible no‐arbitrage model. The gains associated with parsimony become obvious out‐of‐sample, where the equilibrium model delivers much more accurate predictions, especially for yields with longer‐term maturities. The preferred equilibrium model has impulse responses that are consistent with long‐term inflation expectations being anchored, so a surprise increase in inflation does not necessarily raise expectations of higher future inflation.
Donations in a recursive dynamic model
Authors: Liu Haoming , Zhang Jie
Published: August 2010

Abstract.  This paper studies how donations respond to unexpected permanent changes in income and tax rates in a recursive dynamic model. The dynamic approach yields several interesting insights. If marginal tax rates are progressive, a permanent jump in a household's income increases its consumption and donations in the short run, but has no effect in the long run. The permanent income elasticity of current donations is likely to exceed one. If the marginal tax rate is flat, the jump in income raises consumption and donations in both the short and the long run. A permanent marginal tax rate cut raises consumption and donations in the long run if marginal tax rates are progressive, while it reduces donations in the short run if it has little direct impact on tax payments. If the marginal tax rate is flat, a tax cut has a positive effect on consumption in both the short and the long run, but has an ambiguous effect on donations.
Effort, trade, and unemployment
Authors: Altenburg Lutz , Brenken Anke
Published: August 2010

Abstract.  This paper incorporates equilibrium unemployment caused by efficiency wages into a monopolistic competition model of trade. Worker effort is treated as an endogenous variable that depends on the optimizing behaviour of firms and workers. Opening up trade induces firms to demand greater worker effort and to cut the size of their workforce. This counteracts the positive employment effect due to entry of firms. Circumstances are indicated in which the two effects just balance, leaving aggregate employment unchanged. Trade unambiguously increases worker effort, thereby enhancing within‐firm productivity.
The wage gap between Francophones and Anglophones: a Canadian perspective, 1970–2000
Authors: Albouy David
Published: August 2010

Abstract.  The wage gap between Francophone and Anglophone men from 1970 and 2000 fell by 25 percentage points within Quebec, but only by 10 points Canada‐wide, largely because the wages of Quebec Anglophones fell by 15 points relative to other Canadian Anglophones. Accordingly, the Canadian measure of the Francophone gap better reflects the changing welfare of Francophones than the Quebec measure. Over half of the reduction in the Canadian Francophone wage gap is explained by rising Francophone education levels. In Quebec, the declining number and relative wages of Anglophone workers is best explained by a falling demand for English‐speaking labour.
Endogenous protection of R&D investments
Authors: Milliou Chrysovalantou
Published: August 2010

Abstract We examine firms' incentives to protect their non‐cooperative R&D investments from spilling over to competitors. We show that, contrary to findings in most of the literature, the lack of full appropriability can lead to an increase in R&D investments. Consequently, as long as the R&D spillovers are not too strong, firms decide to let their R&D knowledge flow. Since, as we show, welfare is higher when R&D spillovers are present, it follows that public policies that promote the dissemination of technological knowledge could be welfare‐enhancing.
Agricultural Biotechnology and the Precautionary Principle
Authors: Ahteensuu Marko
Published: August 2010

The precautionary principle (PP) has come to the fore in agricultural biotechnology debate. It calls for early measures to avoid and mitigate uncertain environmental damage and health hazards in the future. This summary article reviews the discussion on the PP. Main arguments for and against invoking the principle in the context of genetically engineered crops are considered.
MONETARY REGIMES: A PUBLIC CHOICE PERSPECTIVE
Authors: SPINDLER Z.A.
Published: August 2010

The key is to realize that in a decentralized system of many players and many markets, a centralized approach to reform is unlikely to work well. Moreover, in a market‐based system, regulations that run counter to the market are probably doomed to failure. It is simply too easy with modern technology to find ways around burdensome controls. And the incentives to do so are too great. Andrew Crockett, (1999). General Manager, Bank of International Settlements.
Development of Ceria Based SOFCs With a High Performance La0.6Sr0.4Co0.2Fe0.8O3−δ–Ce0.9Gd0.1O1.95–Ag Composite Cathode
Authors: Liu Y. , Yasumoto K. , Hashimoto S. , Takei K. , Mori M. , Funahashi Y. , Fijishiro Y. , Hirano A. , Takeda Y.
Published: August 2010

In this work, a microtubular cell consisting of a thin Ce0.9Gd0.1O1.95 (GDC) electrolyte (thickness: below 10 μm) on a support NiO/GDC anode (1.8 mm outer diameter, 200 μm wall thickness) with a La0.6Sr0.4Co0.2Fe0.8O3−δ/GDC functional cathode has been developed for intermediate/low temperature operation. The functional cathode was prepared by in situ infiltrating the electrochemically catalytic nano-Ag particles into the as-established 20 μm thick cathode. The as-proposed Ag-impregnation route ensures a very homogeneous particle dispersion and a good adhesion of Ag to the ceramic matrices. The cells were successfully operated to produce the maximum power densities of 0.41 W cm−2 (1.27 A cm−2, 0.32 V), 0.83 W cm−2 (2.23 A cm−2, 0.37 V), and 1.05 W cm−2 (2.39 A cm−2, 0.44 V) at 450°C, 500°C, and 550°C, respectively.
Numerical Investigation of a Delta High Power Density Cell and Comparison With a Flattened Tubular High Power Density Cell
Authors: Iyengar Arun K. S. , Desai Niranjan A. , Vora Shailesh D. , Shockling Larry A.
Published: August 2010

The thermal, electrical, and fluid flow fields associated with a Siemens Power Generation Inc., Stationary Fuel Cells, flattened tubular high power density (HPD) solid oxide fuel cell (SOFC) were investigated comprehensively in a previous study. The present computational investigation is the subsequent part of an ongoing numerical pursuit at Siemens of an optimized cell geometry, commercialization of SOFC technology being the ultimate objective. A Delta type HPD cell featuring eight air channels was investigated and compared with a flattened tubular HPD cell. The computational models were developed using the commercial computational fluid dynamics software FLUENT 6.2 along with its SOFC user defined routine to model the electrochemical effects. The SOFC model parameters were derived from experimental data. The cathode, the anode, and the interconnection layers of the cell were resolved in the model and all modes of heat transfer, conduction, convection, and radiation were included. The resulting electrical performance and the thermal hydraulic characteristics of the cells for fully reformed natural gas fuel flow (reformed external to the cell) are presented and discussed. It was clear from these studies that the Delta HPD cell has distinct advantages over the flattened HPD cell in terms of system electrical performance as well as power density.
Designing Microfuel Cells for Portable Electronics
Authors: Flipsen Bas
Published: August 2010

The main driving force in the developments of consumer electronics, such as cell phones and laptop computers, is longer run times and more functionality. In this quest for higher energy densities, battery characteristics improve at a constant pace. Fuel cells seem to be the next big technology breakthrough improving energy density with a factor of 3–10 compared with current lithium-ion batteries. In particular, the direct methanol fuel cell (DMFC) is an interesting opportunity because of the high energy capacity of methanol and the handling of the fuel making “charging” easy, safe, and fast. To get information on the different aspects that determine the boundaries of the DMFC power source, a power source for an MP3 player, the Samsung YP-Z5F, is designed. This design is based on a DMFC plus battery (DMFC hybrid) and utilizes standard available components [Flipsen, 2007, “Design Challenges for a Fuel Cell Powered MP3 Player,” International Power Sources Symposium, Bath, Great Britain]. The design of a DMFC hybrid power source in a conventional way (standard practice engineering) will not result in a smaller power source for this particular application. The design has a power and energy densities of lower than the currently available lithium-polymer battery, mainly because of the low fuel-efficiency of the cell at low temperatures, the use of commercially available but still too bulky components, and a large amount of dead space (≈34%). There are three ways to increase the power and energy densities of the system. First is by increasing the fuel-efficiency of the cells membrane. Second is by scaling down the system components to the right proportions and third is by improving the systems architecture diminishing empty space. This paper presents the design of a DMFC hybrid with scaled-down components. A literature study is done on the efficiency improvements of DMFC cells. The results are presented in a computer aided design (CAD) model and evaluated, comparing the “improved design” with “standard practice” design and the current lithium-polymer battery. The energy density of the redesigned fuel cell system is still low compared with the used lithium-polymer battery but an improvement to the preliminary design.