bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Selecting Processing Parameters That Influence the Strength of Rotor Spun Yarn Formed on the SDL Quickspin System
Authors: Cheng Y.S.J. , Cheng K.P.S.
Published: March 2008

The SDL Quickspin System is designed to allow spinners to quickly evaluate raw cotton and observe its effects on the resulting yarn quality and spinning performance. This work reports on the effects of several critical processing parameters of the Quickspin System, including navel type, rotor speed, and sliver linear density, on the tenacity of Quickspin yarn. The results show that there are several significant effects of these critical parameters and their interactions on the tenacity of Quickspin yam. The navel type exerts significant effects on the tenacity of Quickspin yam. A higher tenacity, finer Quickspin yarn can be obtained at a lower rotor speed. Reducing the linear density of sliver is beneficial to the tenacity of Quickspin yarn. These findings confirm that the parameter settings of the Quickspin System closely match those of conventional rotor spinning adopted in normal yarn production. From this investigation of the interactions of the critical parameters, optimum settings of the Quickspin System can be obtained and used as a reference for spinners.
Toners for Xerographic Textile Printing Produced by Means of Thermally Induced Phase Separation
Authors: Park Heungsup , Carr Wallace W. , Pfromm Peter H.
Published: March 2008

The xerographic process is one of the digital printing technologies with a potential for textile printing. One barrier to the use of xerography for printing textiles is the lack of textile-specific toners that produce the required textile properties. Attempts have been made to produce textile-specific toners through mechanical grinding processes such as jet milling, but mechanical grinding requires that the toner resins be sufficiently brittle. In our previous work, toner compounds containing resins that are sufficiently flexible for the required textile properties could not be ground to the required particle size for xerography. In this paper, thermally induced phase separation (TIPS) is used to overcome this difficulty. Isotactic polypropylene (IPP) and poly(ethylene-co-vinyl acetate) (EVA) are converted into toners by means of TIPS. The EVA polymers meet the flexibility and colorfastness require ments of textile printing.
Structure and Properties of MVS Yarns in Comparison with Ring Yarns and Open-End Rotor Spun Yarns
Authors: Soe Aung Kyaw , Takahashi Masaoki , Nakajima Masaru , Matsuo Tatsuki , Matsumoto Tatsumori
Published: March 2008

The structure and properties of Murata vortex spun yarns are investigated and compared with ring and open-end rotor spun yarns. Cotton yarns are spun from the same lot of Australian raw cotton fibers using the Murata vortex, ring, and open-end rotor spinning methods. Yarn structures are observed with an optical microscope equipped with a digital camera. Based on the digitized photographs, fiber arrangements are classified as wild, wrapper-wild, wrapper, belly-band. and core. Yarn diameter, yarn helix angle, wrapper fiber pitch, wrapper fiber crest, wrapper fiber length for a one-turn twist, and wrapper fiber helix angle to the yarn axis are examined, and yarn parameters such as tenacity, evenness, and hairiness are evaluated. The mechanical properties of dry relaxed yarns are measured with Kawabata Evaluation System instruments. Attempts are made to relate yarn structure differences to differences in the yarn formation mechanism for the three spinning meth ods. The differences in measured yarn properties such as evenness, hairiness, bulkiness. tenacity, compression properties, and bending properties can be explained by the observed differences in the yarn structure.
Analysis of a Novel 3D Hybrid Woven/Knitted Fabric Structure
Authors: Onal Levent , Adanur Sabit
Published: March 2008

A novel 3D fabric structure is defined and modeled. The 3D hybrid woven/knitted fabric has a structure that can be categorized in the same group of 3D multiaxial warp knitted structures. The fabric consists of longitudinal yarns in the X direction and two bias yarns, which are employed to bind the multilayers of warp yarns on the Z axis with an angle of ±45° without any need for weft yams. The model of the structure is defined by basic geometric relations using fundamental yam and fabric characteristics. The geometric model is compared with the experimental results, and the length of each 3D loop, the length of the needle loop, the bias yam consumption per unit length of the fabric on a single warp yam, and fabric thickness are verified. Monofilament and multifilament yarns are used for sample production. There is reasonable agreement between theory and experiment, considering the assumptions made and the complexity of the 3D fabric structure. The deviation between the model and experiments is less with monofilament warp yams.
Using Neural Network Theory to Predict the Properties of Melt Spun Fibers
Authors: Kuo Chung-Feng Jeffrey , Hsiao Kun-Iuan , Wu Yi-Shiuan
Published: March 2008

Melt spinning is the most economically useful method for producing artificial fibers in the industry. Though the extruder screw speed, the gear pump gear speed, and the winder winding speed of the melt spinning system are the main factors affecting the tensile strength of as-spun fibers and the yarn count (denier), no mathematical model has been proposed to describe the cause and effect of these relations. In this paper, using neural network theory, we consider the extruder screw speed, gear pump gear speed, and winder winding speed of a melt spinning system as the inputs and the tensile strength and yam count of as-spun fibers as the outputs. The data from the experiments are used as learning information for the neural network to establish a reliable prediction model that can be applied to new projects, and the model's performance is verified.
Influence of Succinylation on the Interactions of Wool Fibers and Water
Authors: Kohara Natsuko , Nakajima Toshinari
Published: March 2008

Succinylation after reduction or partial hydrolysis of wool fibers raises their water absorbability, hygroscopicity, and nonfreezing bound water content. The crystallinity of wool fibers decreases after succinylation, which suggests that the reaction affects not only the amorphous region but also the crystalline region. Both the increased amorphous region and the carboxyl groups introduced by succinylation contribute to the rise in hygroscop icity and nonfreezing water content. Water absorbability increases with the number of carboxyl groups, although it is not affected by a change in crystallinity induced by succinylation.
Effect of the Structure of Coaxial Cables on Their Electrical Properties
Authors: Su Ching-Iuan , Wu Hong-Sen , Cheng Kou-Bin
Published: March 2008

Bare annealed copper wire of 1.05 mm diameter, which is coated with one layer of tin, is used as the central conductor in this study. Tinned copper wire of the same diameter, fabricated by the braiding machine as the outer conductors or wrapped with aluminum- plastic-aluminum tape, is used as outer conductors. The braiding materials and constitu ents are varied to make different 75 Ω coaxial cables. From the experimental results, the shielded layer with single and double plies at frequency ranges from 300 to 2500 MHz, the tinned copper wire, and the overlap around the aluminum-plastic-aluminum tape at the inner shield yield the minimum attenuation. At frequency ranges from 200 to 1500 MHz, the leakage of the coaxial cable has the same tendency as the attenuation.
Modeling the Dynamic Behavior of the Fiber Bundle in a Roll-Drafting Process
Authors: Huh You , Kim Jong S.
Published: March 2008

Roll drafting is a mechanical operation that is indispensable when manufacturing staple yams. However, a fiber bundle throughout this operation has a certain number of defects in its regularity of linear density, causing many problems not only for the quality of the textile product but also for the efficiency of the manufacturing processes. In this research, we attempt to set up a mathematical model for the dynamic behavior of the flowing bundle on the basis of general physical laws. Mass balance and momentum balance are applied under certain assumptions. A constitutive model for relating the surface force and the deformation of the fiber bundle is introduced by considering a representative physical variable that stands for the characteristics of the bundle and its constituent fibers. A fundamental equation system can then be simplified in the steady state of the process, and the mathematical problem is reduced to such an extent that mathematical tools can solve the equations. From a simplified model, the simulation results are confirmed by the experiments. The results show that the mathematical model can be adjusted very easily to the experimental outcomes. The fiber bundle accelerates as the bundle attenuation pro ceeds. But near the front roll, the bundle of fibers might experience a jerk, because a discontinuity of the slope of the velocity profile could take place near the nip line of the front roll, which could cause irregularities in the linear density of the output sliver.
Controlling Shrinkage in Wool Fabrics: Effective Hydrogen Peroxide Systems
Authors: Cardamone Jeanette M. , Yao J. , Nuńez Alberto
Published: March 2008

Alkaline hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) systems, including dicyandiamide, gluconic acid, and Triton X surfactant, used alone or followed by enzyme treatments, are investigated for their effectiveness in imparting shrinkage resistance to wool fabrics. Fractional factorial analysis shows that H2O2is the most important factor and enzyme the second contributing factor in shrinkage control. An effective H2O2, nonenzymatic system with Triton X-114 limits structural changes to surface smoothing of the fibers and yields a relative area shrinkage of 2.95%. Another effective H2O2system, using the same pretreatment but followed by an enzymatic treatment with additives—polyacrylamide to restrict enzyme activity to the fiber surface and sodium sulfite to reduce disulfide linkages—yields 1.16% area shrinkage. The most important factor in shrinkage control is replacing the hydro phobicity of the wool's surface with an anionic charge through the formation of cysteic acid. This leads to the release of 18-methyleicosanoic (18-MEA) acid from the fiber surface and underlying cell membrane complex attached to the surface scales of wool through thioester linkages. TLC, FTIR, and EI-MS are used to prove the presence of fatty acids and 18-MEA in spent baths and in extracts of the treated fabrics. Imparting hydrophilicity to wool by conferring an anionic charge suggests new possibilities for wool reactivity.
Woven Fabric-Based Electrical Circuits
Authors: Dhawan Anuj , Seyam Abdelfattah M. , Ghosh Tushar K. , Muth John F.
Published: March 2008

In recent years, a new area of research has emerged on textile-based electronics, called "electrotextiles." Most of the ongoing research in electrotextiles is driven by the motiva tion of creating multifunctional fiber assemblies that can sense, actuate, communicate, compute, etc. This paper discusses the development of fabric-based electrical circuits by interlacing conducting and nonconducting threads2 into woven textile structures. Wired interconnections of different devices attached to the conducting elements of these circuits are made by arranging and weaving conductive threads so that they follow desired electrical circuit designs. In a woven electrically conductive network, routing of electrical signals is achieved by the formation of effective electrical interconnects and disconnects. Resistance welding is identified as one of the most effective means of producing crossover point interconnects and disconnects. Interconnects are evaluated by measuring the DC resistance associated with the crossover points of conducting threads.
Electromechanical Behavior of Fibers Coated with an Electrically Conductive Polymer
Authors: Xue P. , Tao X.M. , Kwok Keith W.Y. , Leung M.Y. , Yu T.X.
Published: March 2008

Fibers/fabrics coated with conductive polymers exhibit sensing capacities for external stimuli like strain, temperature, relative humidity, etc. In this paper, we present our recent investigation of the sensing behavior and mechanical analysis of polymer fibers coated with an intrinsically conductive polymer, i.e., polypyrrole (PPy). PPy-coated PA6 fibers and PPy-coated Lycra fibers are prepared by chemical vapor deposition using pyrrole in the presence of an oxidizing agent, and their electromechanical behavior under tensile load is studied experimentally. The mechanism governing the electromechanical behavior of these conductive fibers is investigated, and the effects of various factors that are respon sible for variations in the electrical resistance are discussed. An electromechanical model is proposed that correlates the resistance change with the applied strain, the damage level of the conductive fibers, the environmental temperature, and the relative humidity. The model provides a theoretical basis for the analysis and design of electrically conductive fabrics.
Woven Fabric-Based Electrical Circuits
Authors: Dhawan Anuj , Ghosh Tushar K. , Seyam Abdelfattah M. , Muth John F.
Published: March 2008

One important problem in electronic textiles is crosstalk and lack of signal integrity between conductive lines. Two significant advantages of electronic textiles over tradi tional circuit boards are flexibility and the ability to scale to large areas. Capacitive and inductive crosstalk is aggravated by long parallel conductors, and varies as the electronic textile is flexed into different configurations. This paper evaluates crosstalk between woven parallel conductors. Two new thread structures—coaxial and twisted pair copper threads—to minimize cross talk are developed and evaluated. Significant reductions in crosstalk are obtained with the coaxial and twisted pair thread structures when compared with bare copper threads or insulated conductive threads.
Evaluating Hydrogen Peroxide Bleaching with Cationic Bleach Activators in a Cold Pad-Batch Process
Authors: Çiğdem Gürsoy Nevin , Lim Sang-Hoon , Hinks David , Hauser Peter
Published: March 2008

Bleach activators generate peracids in the presence of hydrogen peroxide and alkali that are more potent oxidizing agents than hydrogen peroxide under comparable bleaching conditions. The effects of key bleaching parameters (activator concentration, hydrogen peroxide, chelant, and pH) on the performance of cold pad-batch bleaching on cotton are investigated. Optimized recipes are determined for two cationic activators, N-[4-(triethylammoniomethyl) benzyl]ca prolactam chloride and 6-( N,N,N-trimethylammonio) hexanoyl caprolactam p-toluenesulfo nate, using a central composite experimental design. The laboratory optimized conditions are used for pilot plant scale bleaching of cotton knit fabric. CIE whiteness index values are calculated from measured reflectance data of the pilot scale bleaching and are in close agreement with those predicted by the experiment. A high level of whiteness ( CIE WI > 70) is achieved for both activators with 8-hour batching, and measurements of the degree of polymerization of the bleached and greige fabrics show little fiber damage in each case.
One-Bath Dyeing of Polyester/Cotton Blends with Reactive Disperse Dyes in Supercritical Carbon Dioxide
Authors: Maeda Shingo , Kunitou Katsushi , Hihara Toshio , Mishima Kenji
Published: March 2008

One-bath dyeing of polyester/cotton blends with reactive disperse dyes is investigated using supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO2) as a solvent in the range of 353 to 393 K and 10 to 20 MPa. One-bath dyeing of polyester/cotton blends is successful. The dyeing behavior is compared with the thermosol dyeing method using the same dye. Samples are subjected to a color fastness test and colorimetric measurements. Good color intensity and wash fastness are obtained by the SC-CO2 dyeing method at 393 K and 20 MPa. The color fastness properties of fabrics dyed in SC-CO2 are superior to those of fabrics dyed by the thermosol dyeing method.
Uniaxial Tensile Properties of Yarns: Effects of Moisture Level on the Shape of Stress-Strain Curves
Authors: Ahumada O. , Cocca M. , Gentile G. , Martuscelli E. , D'Orazio L.
Published: March 2008

With the aim of clarifying the complex shapes of the stress-strain curves of yams such as wool and silk and improving the reproducibility of the experimental results achieved through their mechanical characterization, nylon 6,6 yams consisting of one, three, nine, and thirty filaments are selected as a modeling system. Moreover, the uniaxial tensile properties of commercial nylon 6,6 yarns are investigated and compared with the corre sponding properties of commercial wool and silk yarns. Moisture level plays a very relevant role in determining the mechanical behavior of yarns. With an increasing moisture level of conditioning, in fact, nylon 6,6, wool, and silk yarns show neat breaking points, and their stress-strain curves tend to assume the typical shape of the curve shown by respective single fibres. This suggests that high moisture levels minimize the multiple breakage phenomena occurring in the yam. Moreover, for all the yarns investigated and, in particular, for wool, the process of conditioning at 100% RH reduces the variability of the experimental results, thus inducing a significant improvement in the precision and reproducibility of uniaxial tensile tests.
Objective Evaluation Equation for the Appearance of Swinging Flared Skirts
Authors: Matsudaira Mitsuo , Sugimura Momoko
Published: March 2008

To develop an objective evaluation equation for the aesthetic appearance of swinging flared skirts, subjective appraisals are obtained from 29 girls, aged 20 to 22, by the paired comparison method. The subjective values are regressed with basic mechanical parame ters and the vibrational parameters of the fabrics from which the skirts are made, using 'stepwise multiple regression. As the result, useful and significant objective evaluation equations to estimate "rhythmical," "blowy," "airy," "graceful," "dynamic," and "beau tiful" movements of the flared skirts are developed.
Modeling the Air-Jet Flow Field of a Dual Slot Die in the Melt Blowing Nonwoven Process
Authors: Chen Ting , Wang Xinhou , Huang Xiubao
Published: March 2008

An air-jet How field model of the dual slot die in the melt blowing nonwoven process is proposed and solved numerically with the finite difference method. The effects of dual slot die design parameters on velocity and temperature distributions in the melt blowing flow field are investigated. The computation results of the distributions of the x-compo nents of air velocity and air temperature coincide well with our experimental data. The results show that a smaller angle α, a larger slot width e, and a narrower head width f will all result in higher x-components of air velocity and higher air temperatures, which are beneficial to the air drawing of the polymer melt and thus to reduced fiber diameter. The results show the great potential of this research for computer-assisted design in the melt blowing nonwoven technology.
Modeling the Thermal Protective Performance of Heat Resistant Garments in Flash Fire Exposures
Authors: Song Guowen , Barker Roger L. , Hamouda Hechmi , Kuznetsov Andrey V. , Chitrphiromsri Patirop , Grimes Robert V.
Published: March 2008

This research developes a numerical model to predict skin burn injury resulting from heat transfer through a protective garment worn by an instrumented manikin exposed to laboratory-controlled flash fire exposures. This model incorporates characteristics of the simulated flash fire generated in the chamber and the heat-induced changes in fabric thermophysical properties. The model also accounts for clothing air layers between the garment and the manikin. The model is validated using an instrumented manikin fire test system. Results from the numerical model help contribute to a better understanding of the heat transfer process in protective garments exposed to intense flash fires, and to establishing systematic methods for engineering materials and garments to produce optimum thermal protective performance.
Structure and Elasticity of Fine Elastomeric Yarns
Authors: Su Ching-Iuan , Yang Hsiao-Ying
Published: March 2008

In this study, spandexes of three degrees of fineness are used as the core material with cotton fibers as the sheath to spin fine elastomeric yarns. We observe the cross sections of the core yarns and the migration of the spandex inside the core yarn concluding that producing a finer elastomeric yarn with a uniform structure is feasible. The results show that choosing the optimum spinning conditions gives a better cover effect to fine elastomeric yarn. In terms of elasticity, a 10 tex elastomeric yarn produced with a 2.2 tex/2f spandex core at a draw ratio of 4.0 and with a twist factor of 40 exhibits the best dynamic elastic recovery percentage.
Neural Model of the Permeability Features of Woven Fabrics
Authors: Tokarska Magdalena
Published: March 2008

A method of modeling woven fabric permeability features by means of neural nets is presented. The experiment is based on a steady-system design. A formal dependence is found, describing the relationship of the integral of a function that is a real pressure impulse formed on the woven fabric under impact air flow conditions, with its apparent density, warp twist, and weft twist. The model is assessed by verifying the structure of the neural net.
Crosslinking of Cotton Cellulose in the Presence of Alpha-Amino Acids
Authors: Shih Ming-Kuang , Wang Chang , Chen Cheng-Chi , Chen Jui-Chin , Yao Wei-Hua , Yeh Jen-Taut
Published: March 2008

Two kinds of alpha-amino acids are used to combine with dimethylol-dihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) as crosslinking agents, and the specific rate constants and other activation parameters are discussed. From the results, we find that the rate constants for the various crosslinking agent systems are in the order of DMDHEU > DMDHEU-aspartic acid > DMDHEU-glutamic acid. The energies needed to crosslink are in the rank of DMDHEU-glutamic acid > DMDHEU-aspartic acid > DMDHEU. The values of enthalpy and entropy for DMDHEU are lower than those for DMDHEU-alpha-amino acids, and enthalpy values for DMDHEU are significantly lower than those for DMDHEU-alpha-amino acids. The data of various activation parameters reveal that the reaction state of DMDHEU-alpha-amino acids is different from that of DMDHEU. Additionally, the reactions between aluminum sulfate and aspartic acid are confirmed by infrared spectra.
Polyacrylonitrile Fibers Modified by Nano-Antimony-Doped Tin Oxide Particles
Authors: Wang Dong , Lin Yao , Zhao Yan , Gu Lixia
Published: March 2008

A new method for preparing a novel antistatic polyacrylonitrile (PAN) fiber modified by nano-antimony-doped tin oxide (ATO) particles is proposed. Nano-ATO particles are first dispersed in water by the dispersant polyethyleneimine PEI, then the nano-ATo suspension is applied in a pre-heating bath during spinning of PAN fibers. When the as-spun fibers are run through the suspension, nano-ATO particles diffuse into them, and an electrically conductive channel is formed during the drawing and drying process. The average diffusion displacement of nano-ATO can reach 100 nm in the final fibers. These fibers not only posses antistatic properties, but they also have good mechanical properties.
Plasma and Antimicrobial Treatment of Nonwoven Fabrics for Surgical Gowns
Authors: Virk Rajpreet K. , Ramaswamy Gita N. , Bourham Mohamed , Bures Brian Lee
Published: March 2008

Plasma treatments are gaining popularity in the textile industry due to their numerous advantages over conventional wet processing techniques. In this study, the nonwoven fabric Sontara®, commonly used for surgical gowns, is treated with antimicrobial finishes and a plasma containing fluorocarbon gas. Treated samples are evaluated for changes in physical and functional characteristics. The plasma treatment does not alter the weight, thickness, stiffness, air permeability, and breaking strength and elongation. Plasma-treated and water-repellent Sontara samples show higher blood and water resistance compared to other treatments. Plasma-treated samples also show a zone of inhibition for Staphylococcus aureus, thus providing a barrier against microbes. There is no zone of inhibition for the water repellent Sontara, untreated, and wet control samples. This implies that the nonwoven fabric treated with plasma can provide a better barrier against microbes than commonly available surgical gown fabric with a fluorocarbon finish.
Determination of Uronic Acids in Cellulosic Materials
Authors: Whistler Roy L. , Martin A.R. , Harris Milton
Published: March 2008

Naturally-occurring cellulosic fibres appear to be a more or less intimate association of cellulose with other constituents, generally referred to as incrusting substances. A portion of these extraneous materials appears to be com posed of uronic acids, presumably contained in the pectic substance of the fibres. Many of the important properties of these fibres, such as tensile strength, moisture and dye absorption, and viscosity in cuprammonium solution have frequently been considered as related to the presence of small quantities of pectin. In order to study this relation ship in greater detail, it was necessary to develop a method for the quantitative estimation of pectin or its constituent uronic acids.

Available methods, based on the evolution of carbon dioxide during treatment of the uronic acid with a boiling solution of hydrochloric acid, were found to fail when cellulose or other carbohydrate materials were present, since these substances also decompose with the evolution of some carbon dioxide. An investigation of the rates of evolution of carbon dioxide showed that pure uronic acids evolved carbon dioxide at a rapid rate and that the evolution of gas was complete in several hours. On the other hand, carbohydrates, free of uronic acids, evolved carbon dioxide at a much slower but approximately con stant rate during the entire treatment. It was found that this difference in rates could be utilized for the estimation of uronic acids, even when they are mixed with large pro portions of cellulosic materials. A detailed description of the apparatus and its manipulation is given.
Removal of a Sulfur Black Dye from Suspension by Flotation Methods
Authors: Clanton B.R. , Cameron F.K. , Magoffin J.E.
Published: March 2008

1. It has been confirmed that the flotation of sulfur black suspensions is dependent on the electrokinetic poten tial of the dye, as measured by the migration velocity.

2. Several new floating agents have been found to be effective alone and in mixtures.

3. Partial coagulation of the dye with electrolytes or positive colloids before addition of floating agents has proved to be effective. The improvement is directly con nected with the change in the electrokinetic potential of the dye caused by the coagulating agent.
Concerning the Existence of Fractions of the Sericin in Raw Silk
Authors: Rutherford Henry A. , Harris Milton
Published: March 2008

Raw silk fibres consist of at least two proteins, silk fibroin and silk sericin. The latter forms a coating over the fibroin and constitutes 15 to 30% of the total weight of the raw fibre. In practical silk processing, the sericin is generally allowed to remain on the fibre until the fabric is ready to be dyed. In this way, it acts as a protective coating for the silk in the weaving or knitting operations.

Removal of the sericin is usually accomplished with hot soap solutions. The results of numerous studies of this process led earlier investigators to a variety of con cepts concerning the state and properties of the sericin in the raw silk fibre. Some stated that the sericin is a single protein substance, whereas others claimed it to be a mix ture of proteins which they designated as sericins A, B, etc. The latter concept formed the basis for further claims concerning the desirability of retaining certain fractions of the sericin to improve some wltimate proper ties of the silk. As many of these claims were based on insufficient experimental evidence, it seemed desirable to make a more extensive investigation of the question of the possible existence of several fractions of the sericin in raw silk.

The results of the present investigation show that the relative yields of the so-called sericins A and B, obtained after treatment of silk in an autoclave, were dependent on the duration of the treatment. Practically all of the sericin removed in the early stages of autoclaving was in the form generally designated as sericin B. On continu ing the treatment, this fraction was rapidly converted into the more soluble form, sericin. A. Analyses of the fractions, obtained after autoclaving the silk for differ ent lengths of time, showed that the alleged serieins A and B are not definite chemical entities, but are substances whose chemical compositions vary with the duration of the autoclave treatment. It is concluded from these stud ies that the sericin in raw silk does not exist as a mix ture of fractions, but that the fractions are artifacts which result from the hydrolytic decomposition of the naturally occurring sericin during its removal from the raw fibres.
The Moisture Relations of Textile Fibres at Elevated Temperatures
Authors: Wiegerink James G.
Published: March 2008

The moisture contents of ten kinds of textile fibres in the form of specially prepared yarns were determined when the fibres were in equilibrium with air for a series of relative humidities and tem peratures. Data were obtained for both "desorption." and "ad sorption," the yarns being brought to equilibrium from a wet condition and a dry condition, respectively. The fibres studied were raw cotton, "purified" cotton, mercerized cotton, clothing wool, carpet wool, viscose rayon, cuprammonium rayon, raw silk, degummed silk and cellulose acetate. The temperatures ranged from 96° F. to 302° F. and the relative humidities ranged from 5% to 90% for temperatures below 212° F. and up to the maximum obtainable at atmospheric pressure above 212° F.

The results are given in the form of graphs showing moisture content against relative humidity and also in the form of graphs in which the logarithms of the moisture contents at given relative humidities are plotted against the reciprocals of the corresponding absolute temperatures. The last show straight line relationships with changes in the slopes of the lines between 200° F. and 220° F.
Viscose Rayon: Stress-Strain Properties
Authors: Bellinson H.R.
Published: March 2008

Measurements were made of the strength and stretch of viscose rayon yarns at values of relative humidity ranging from 43 to 74%.

It was found that the strength decreases and the stretch in creases as the relative humidity is increased. Both effects are ap proximately linear in the region observed. The change in strength is 2.58 grams, in stretch .047%, for each 1% change in relative hu midity.

Stretch-load diagrams are shown, and it appears there that the "yield" region decreases and the "work hardening" region in creases with increased relative humidity.

Correlation is found to exist between strength and stretch of individual specimens. The best estimate of the coefficient of cor relation is + 0.185.
Compression Tests on Rayon Flock
Authors: Saxl Erwin J.
Published: March 2008

The use of the Gelometer described previously has been extended to the measurements of rayon flock. By taking load-versus-compression readings in a precise and simple manner with the new Compressometer, the resist ance of materials in bulk form to compression can be de termined directly. Also, the elastic recovery and the work consumed in the total compression and decompression cycle can be found. In addition to evaluating constants of material, such as the influence of the length of the indi vidual filament and the variations resulting from changes in diameter or denier, this method also permits the investi gation of auxiliaries attached to the flock. This becomes of significance in sizing treatments of flock, and in the influence of chemical processes upon its resiliency. By following the manufacture of flock through with the aid of the "Compressometer," cutting and grinding methods may be investigated as they relate to the quality of the output desired and improvements may be made in the man ufacturing procedure, resulting in a product of increased value to the consumer as well as a lower production cost. Going beyond the industrial requirements, the compres sion tests described open up new vistas by furnishing a method whereby all types of small materials as such may be investigated in bulk form, and also the influence of the materials that fills the space between the particles.
Effects of Drying Conditions on Properties of Textile Yarns
Authors: Wiegerink James G.
Published: March 2008

Yarns made from raw cotton, "purified" cotton, mercerized cotton, clothing wool, carpet wool, viscose rayon, cuprammonium rayon, cellulose acetate, and degummed silk were saturated with water and then exposed for periods of 1/2 to 6 hours in air having temperatures of 221° 257 °, and 302° F. and absolute humidities of approximately 1%, 55%, and 95%. After conditioning the dried yarns for at least 24 hours in air of 65% relative humidity and 70° F., measurements were made of the breaking strengths, elongations at break, and moisture contents of the yarns; the fluid ities of dispersions of the cellulosic fibres in cuprammonium solu tion, of the silk in aqueous zinc chloride, and of the acetate in aqueous acetone; and the relative affinities of the cellulosic fibres for the dye Benzopurpurine 4B and of the wools for acid dyes.

Heating for 6 hours at 221° F. and each of the three humidi ties weakened all of the yarns. The breaking strength and elonga tion at break of the viscose, cuprammonium, degummed silk, and cotton yarns decreased still more at higher temperatures. In com parison with heating at 1% absolute humidity, heating at 95% absolute humidity resulted in lower breaking strengths and elonga tions at break for all yarns except the raw cotton, higher fluidities, lower affinity of cellulosic fibres and higher affinity of wool fibres for the dyes.

Heating for 1/2 hour at 302° F. had little effect on the prop erties of the yarns except the viscose and cuprammonium rayon which were adversely affected. The damage which occurred at a given temperature and humidity inereased throughout the heating period.
A Method of Fibre-Length Analysis Using the Fibrograph
Authors: Hertel K.L.
Published: March 2008

The fibrograph is an optical instrument employing photovoltaic cells for scanning samples of parallel fibres and tracing a type of length- frequency curve. The theory is developed for a sample of parallel fibres in which the fibres are positioned at random. The geometrical interpreta tion of the resulting curve, or fibrogram, indicates simple length and area measurements that give various average lengths and statistical quantities, such as standard deviation and coefficient of variation. Experimental fibrograms are compared with the equivalent data derived from absolute length measurements, using a projection method. The waviness and taper of the fibres, along with other minor factors, cause the fibrogram to be too short. When the length coördinates are increased 19%, the fibrogram is equivalent to the curve obtained from absolute measurements. The instrument makes possible the rapid measurement of fibre length and fibre-length uniformity of raw fibre samples.
Combination of Silk Fibroin with Acid and with Base
Authors: Gleysteen Leland F. , Harris Milton
Published: March 2008

Silk contains a number of acidic and basic groups. The state of combination and the behavior of these groups are important in influencing the tensile and elastic properties of the fibroin and the adsorption of moisture and dyes.

As part of a broad research program of the Textile Foundation Research Associateship at the National Bureau of Standards on the acidic and basic properties of fibers, this investigation was under taken to determine the relationship between the quantities of hydro claloric acid and potassium hydroxide taken up by fibroin from solutions and the concentrations of those solutions. The effect of added potassium chloride was also studied. In general, it has been possible to correlate the several parts of the titration curves of proteins with their amino acid contents, but our knowledge of the rôle of the phenolic hydroxyl groups of tyrosine has always been uncertain. Silk fibroin, however, contains such a large proportion of tyrosine as to assure practically an indication of the rôle of the phenolic hydroxyl groups of tyrosine simply by the magnitude of the base-binding capacity. In order to investigate more care fully the part taken by these groups, a titration curve was ob tained for methylated fibroin in which most of the hydroxyl groups had been converted into nonreactive methoxyl groups.

The component parts of the titration curve of silk fibroin have been interpreted in terms of the composition of this protein. Thus the hydroxyl groups of tyrosine appear to bind base as shown by the fact that the base-combining capacity is much greater than can be accounted for by the other groups which are able to bind base.

The presence of free carboxyl groups in silk fibroin is sug gested by the shape of the titration curve. From the maximum amount of acid bound an estimate of the total content of free amino groups may be obtained. The effect of added salt is simi lar to that obtained with other insoluble proteins, namely to in crease the quantity of acid or base bound at a given pH, in a manner which suggests that the combination of hydrogen ions is affected by the concentration of anions as well as by the concen tration of hydrogen ions and that combination with hydroxyl ions is affected by the concentration of cations.
Fundamental Properties of Textile Wastes. IX. Concentration of Sulfur Black Dyes by Froth Flotation
Authors: Surprenant L.C. , Magoffin J.E. , Cameron F.K.
Published: March 2008

In a previous paper4 in this series, it was shown that, in gen eral, flotation of colloidal material is improved when the electro kinetic potential of the particles is lowered and flocculation results. Similarly, the agglomerated state has been found necessary for satisfactory flotation of minerals. The work reported here is a com prehensive study of the flotation of sulfur black dye, including the effect of concentration of dye and of various electrolytes on the process. The apparatus used was that described by Clanton, Cam eron, and Magoffin.4 Migration velocities of the flocculated dye were measured by the microscopic method, using the improved cell suggested by Moyer.6 The dyes investigated are registered under trade names. Sulfogene Carbon MCF is a product of E. I. duPont de Nemours & Co., Inc. Sodysul Black RACF was obtained from the Southern Dyestuff Corporation and is described as a solution of sulfur black with sodium sulfide and carbonate.
Fabric Properties of Blends of New and Reprocessed Wool
Authors: Bailey Barbara
Published: March 2008

Physical and chemical effects of blending new and reprocessed wool have been investigated before and after varying numbers of commercial dry cleanings and pressings.

Differences in fundamental fabric properties were found for the four blends of wool used, although identical manufacturing and finishing processes were employed.

Ash content tended to increase with dry cleaning, sulfur was not appreciably affected, and the nitrogen content showed a marked increase between, the fifteenth and thirtieth dry cleanings.

Applications of statistical methods to the tests of strength and elongation showed in general that blending the sources of new and reprocessed wool used in this study resulted in decreases in fabric strength and elongation as the percentages of reprocessed wool were increased, and these differences persisted through forty- five dry cleanings and pressings. The effects of dry cleaning and pressing were mixed and nominal in magnitude.
Continuous Filament Rayon Slashing
Authors: Yelland William E.
Published: March 2008

A series of continuous filament rayon warps, which had been sized with different grades of gelatins and glues, and some of which had been dried to high regains, all wove satisfactorily in the weave room. Comparisons were made among them using the criteria discussed in previous articles, namely, (1) the number of breaks due to balling-up in back of the reed and (2) the number of warp defects appearing in the greige goods.

It was then found that larger amounts of lower grade gelatin- glues were picked up by the warp and gave much better protection to the yarn than smaller amounts of high grade gelatin taken up by the warp from size baths of the same viscosity but of lower concentration. Moreover, the higher grade material showed a tend ency to distribute itself less regularly on the yarn than the low grade material.

Warps dried to high regains, although not classed as soft warps by the slasher tender and weaver, showed a much higher number of breaks due to balling-up in back of the reed and a larger number of defects in the greige goods than the standard warps.
Cross Sectioning of Textile Materials by Hand Without Microtome or Other Special Equipment
Authors: Lee H.N. , Schwarz E.R.
Published: March 2008

The cutting of thin cross sections of textiles with microtomes of various designs is well established and has been thoroughly de scribed in publications. Except for the cork method no description appears to be published for preparing very thin sections without the use of some kind of microtome. With the cork method it is not easy to cut sections sufficiently thin for best microscopical examina tions. In the following, methods are described which can be used for cutting very thin sections, as thin as can be made with a micro tome. These methods can be used with a microtome but entirely satisfactory sections for most purposes can be prepared with no special equipment of any kind.

Fundamentally these methods consist of impregnating a tuft or bundle of fibers or fabric with a material of such stiffness and tenacity that the fibers will be held in position during the cutting operation. Procedures are given in the following which have been satisfactorily employed.
Increased Card Speeds
Authors: Dunlap George H.
Published: March 2008

An increase in cotton yarn strength was the unexpected result obtained in a number of mills when card speeds were raised. This phenomenon—as reported by Pro fessor Dunlap, who is supervisor of the research pro gram being carried out by the Southern Textile Associa tion and the Arkwrights under sponsorship of the Textile Foundation—was discussed briefly in the January issue of TEXTILE RESEARCH. Following is a more detailed re port of some of the tests and the results obtained.
Fiber Structure
Authors: Harris Milton , Mizell Louis R. , Fourt Lyman
Published: March 2008

Fundamental research in the chemical structure of fibers has received increasing attention in recent years. This research has gone hand in hand with the improvement of regenerated and synthetic fibers, that has brought rayon. to its present commanding position among textile fibers.

The unique structure of the wool fiber, namely, flexi ble chains linked together by cross-linkages, and the fact that these cross-links can be ruptured and then re-built, with the effect of making the wool fiber more stable and resistant to the action of alkalies and attacks by moths, was outlined in TEXTILE RESEARCH, November, 1941. The following is a condensed report of further investigations, by Dr. Harris and associates at the Textile Foundation Laboratories. The complete report will be found in the July issue of Journal of Research, National Bureau of Standards; Ind. and Eng. Chemistry ; and in American Dyestuff Reporter.
Postwar Full Employment
Authors: Besse Arthur , Hansen Alvin H.
Published: March 2008

The September issue of Textile Research contained a condensation of a pamphlet issued by the National Re sources Planning Board, entitled "After the War—Full Employment." We published this because we know that Dr. Hansen's ideas are given considerable weight by men in authority in Washington, and for that reason we felt they should be brought to the attention of our members.

Arthur Besse, president of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers and one of our Directors, disa grees with many of Professor Hansen's conclusions. We, therefore, were glad to offer him the opportunity of ex pressing his views. (Mr. Besse's letter follows.) Editor.
Controlled Molecular Length
Authors: Sookne Arnold M. , Harris Milton
Published: March 2008

The mechanical properties of films prepared from a series of fractions of cellulose acetate, varying widely in molecular chain length ( DP)2 were determined. A frac tion of DP 30 would not form a coherent film; fractions of higher DP showed a rapid improvement of mechanical properties with increase in DP, but above 150, further improvement was slight. A close correlation was found between the results of folding endurance and ultimate elongation measurements. These properties are more sensitive than tensile strength to changes in DP and to heterogeneity with respect to DP. Investigation of the properties as a function of both weight-average and number-average DP indicated that at any given weight- average DP, the fractions are superior to the blends and furthermore, those blends which contain fractions of low DP are inferior to those which do not. In contrast, at any given number-average DP within the range studied, the properties of the fractions and all of the blends are approximately equal.
Wool Protein With Weak Acids
Authors: Steinhardt Jacinto , Fugitt Charles H. , Harris Milton
Published: March 2008

Wool is often exposed during processing to solutions which contain weak acids. Certain of these acids have long been known to have profound effects on the swelling and the elastic properties of wool fibers. Nevertheless, practically all of the studies which have been made on the chemistry of the reaction of wool with acids have been made with strong acids, i.e., those which are totally dis sociated into their constituent ions. The present paper (Combination of Wool Protein with Weak Acids), by re search associates of the Textile Foundation at the Na tional Bureau of Standards, fills in part this gap in our knowledge.
Warmth Without Weight
Authors: Kirkpatrick Clifford
Published: March 2008

For years the heat insulating properties of certain types of metallic coatings have been recognized by engineers and applied in the construction field, a well known ex ample being the use of aluminum paint as a coating for gasoline storage tanks. However, the application of heat reflecting coatings to textiles for the purpose of in sulating against the inflow of cold or the escape of heat from within is a comparatively recent development.

The following digest of an article* by Professor Kirkpatrick gives some of the results of his laboratory tests in which the experimental evidence indicates that a reflective film of negligible weight will compare favorably with conventional textiles in restricting heat loss, and that by proper construction it should be possible to in crease the warmth and at the same time decrease the weight of articles of clothing, blankets, bedding and the like.
The Grex Universal Numbering System
Authors: Scroggie A.G.
Published: March 2008

At the recent fall, 1943, meeting of Committee D-13 of the American So ciety for Testing Materials, it was de cided by Subcommittee B-2 on Nomen clature and Definition to place before the Textile Industry for its considera tion a proposal for a universal yarn, numbering system. The January issue of TEXTILE RESEARCH carried a digest of the first of a series of papers by A. G. Scroggie, chairman of Subcom mittee B-2, discussing the "Grex" unit. The following article gives fur ther pertinent information and deals particularly with the adoption of the unit in mills operating on other systems.