bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
The Stress Relaxation of Fibrous Materials
Authors: Kubu E.T.
Published: March 2008

An apparatus has been built to study the relaxation behavior of wool, silk, and nylon as a function of reagent temperature, concentration, and hydrogen ion concentration. In distilled water all three materials show the same behavior over most of the time range studied—that is, a gradual relaxation of perhaps one-third of the initial stress, attributable in all likelihood to the destruction of hydrogen bonds. When the water is replaced by sodium bisulfite solution at pH 6.5, the rate of stress relaxation of wool keratin increases markedly. This change is at tributed to the scission of the disulfide cross-links in this material by the sulfite ion, in view of the finding that silk and nylon, which are free of cystine, are not affected by sodium bisulfite.

Further experiments on wool have been made to show the effects of solutions of hydrochloric acid, urea, thioglycolic acid, and cysteine. The addition of 0.1 M HCl to an extended fiber re laxing in water produces a sharp drop in the stress; but the stress returns to its previous value when the acid is replaced with water. When 0.1 M hydrochloric acid is replaced by sodium bisulfite solution at pH 1.2, the rate of stress relaxation is much slower than that observed with sodium bisulfite at pH 6.5. The addition of 10 M urea to a fiber relaxing in water produces a relatively slow decay of stress. When the 10 M urea solution is replaced by a solution of 0.1 M sodium bisulfite in 10 M urea, the rate of stress relaxation is more rapid than that produced by sodium bisulfite alone. Cysteine and thioglycolic acid solutions at pH 6.5 produce an approxi mately exponential decay of stress when added to wool fibers previously relaxed in water.
The Fractionation of Cellulose
Authors: Pagé Edgar J.
Published: March 2008

Studies of molecular weight heterogeneity have been carried out on various celluloses, both before and after exposure to the degradative effect of ultraviolet radiation. Fractionation was carried out on the nitrate derivatives of the samples studied. The data show that significant changes have taken place in the molecular weight distribution patterns of the degraded celluloses.
Relationship Between Various Surface Properties of Wool Fibers
Authors: Lindberg Joel
Published: March 2008

Wool fibers were steeped in alcoholic potash for different periods of time. The mechanical properties and swelling properties of these fibers were investigated, and the results obtained indicate that the potash treatments do not influence these properties. The Allwörden reaction was studied, and the results obtained show that the reaction time for the characteristic bubbles to appear is determined by the reaction rate between the chlorine and the keratin of the wool fiber. The epicuticle of the fibers, however, must be intact. It is further shown that the results of most staining reactions are dependent upon the properties of the epicuticle.
The Skin Effect in Crimped Rayon
Authors: Sisson Wayne A. , Morehead F.F.
Published: March 2008

In an earlier publication it was noted that the filaments of most rayons have a uniform skin. This skin is usually thicker in the strong, tougher types used for tire cords than it is in textile yarns. In the present paper, the more recently introduced crimped rayon staple fibers are shown to have an unbalanced skin structure resulting from an asymmetrical distribution of skin around the core. Three general types of unbalanced cross sections, possible mechanisms for producing various types of unbalance, and conditions necessary for building crimp into a fiber are briefly described.
The Tensile Behavior of Some Protein Fibers
Authors: Susich G. , Zagieboylo W.
Published: March 2008

The tensile properties of wool, mohair, human hair, casein, Vicara, and silk, including their behavior when knotted, after repeated stresses (mechanical conditioning) and when swollen in water were investigated. The immediate elastic recovery, the delayed recovery, and the permanent set of these fibers were measured by means of a cycling technique using the Instron tensile tester and the Sookne-Harris fiber extensometer. Actual and relative values of elonga tion components under different testing conditions are demonstrated graphically from the be ginning of the stretching procedure up to rupture.

Wool has an outstanding elastic recovery in the dry state, and its elastic behavior is improved after mechanical conditioning and when wet. Mohair and human hair, and to some extent casein and Vicara, have elastic properties similar to those of wool. The tensile behavior of silk is different, being characterized by considerable permanent set (dry and wet) and by high immediate elastic recovery after mechanical conditioning.
The Reaction of Formaldehyde and Phenols with Wool
Authors: Johnson Kenneth G.
Published: March 2008

The reaction of wool keratin with formaldehyde and phenols in dilute solution and at neu trality is discussed. A covalent linking of the phenol to the free amino groups of the keratin under such conditions that the reactants do not condense and polymerize is suggested.
Relationship Between Various Surface Properties of Wool Fibers
Authors: Lindberg Joel
Published: March 2008

Wool fibers were treated with alcoholic potash for different periods of time. The diffusion rate of dyes and acids into wool fibers was measured. It was found that the epicuticle largely controls the diffusion rate. The differences in permeability of the epicuticle in different parts of the fiber complicate a mathematical treatment of the diffusion data. A theory is given in which the differences in permeability of the epicuticle are thought to be dependent on the polarity of the surface layer.
Frictional Properties of Filament Yarns and Staple Fibers as Determined by the Stick-Slip Method
Authors: Bartlett G.W. , Smith T.M. , Thompson H.A.
Published: March 2008

This paper describes instruments for measuring the forces involved in the stick-slip process in filament yarn friction and the forces between staple fibers during drafting. Electrical strain gages and high-speed recording instruments have been incorporated into testing equipment to furnish an accurately recorded measurement of the rapidly fluctuating forces which may occur during motion of yarn or fiber samples. Details of calibration and performance are given, together with typical tests illustrating the wide range of results observed. A simple equation has been employed to assign a numerical value to smoothness of fiber movement. Both static and kinetic values of friction can be obtained from a single stick-slip cycle.
Change in the Fluorescence of Deltapine-15 Seed Cotton as a Result of Heat
Authors: Sheehan W.C. , Bailey T.L.W. , Compton Jack
Published: March 2008

Examination of cotton samples in ultraviolet light revealed a variable color fluorescence of the entire bale stock, ranging from violet to blue-violet to ivory-white. Further experiments in dicated that the entire fiber mass could be made ivory-white by heating. Unlike commercially ginned fibers, hand-ginned fibers appeared uniformly bluish in ultraviolet radiations, but they could also be made ivory-white on heating.

Experiments were carried out to ascertain whether these heated, white fluorescent fibers had different physical properties from the unheated, bluish fluorescent fibers. Of the various proper ties examined, only the bending stiffness was found to be different. The heated fluorescent fibers were the stiffer. The cause of this change in fiber fluorescence on heating was found to be associated with the formation of oxycellulose.
The Effect of Draw Ratio and Temperature on Electrical Conduction in Nylon Filaments
Authors: Sharman E.P. , Hersh S.P. , Montgomery D.J.
Published: March 2008

In a study of electrical conduction in nylon as a function of draw ratio and temperature, it was found that the conductance depends upon washing history. Accordingly, a standard wash ing procedure was devised to allow reproducible and comparable measurements to be made. The conductivity at 30°C thus measured was shown to decrease with increasing draw ratio to an extent greater than can be accounted for by the decreased moisture regain produced by drawing. Upon decreasing the temperature from 45°C to 15°C, the conductivities at constant regain of both drawn and undrawn nylon fell, the difference between the two diminishing and apparently disappearing at 15°C. At none of the temperatures and regains studied could the temperature dependence be accounted for as a simple rate process.
"S Factor," A Microbial Enzyme which Increases the Swelling of Cotton in Alkali
Authors: Marsh P.B. , Bollenbacher K. , Butler M.L. , Guthrie L.R.
Published: March 2008

Exposure of cotton fiber to cell-free filtrates obtained from certain culture media after the growth of microorganisms increases the degree of subsequent swelling of the fiber in NaOH solutions. The active agency in the filtrates is here termed " S factor." Its action is measured by a previously described alkali-centrifuge test [12].

With the fungus Myrothecium verrucaria, S factor was produced during growth in media which included any of several cellulose-containing materials but not in any of several media lacking in cellulose. This finding and related results suggest that S factor consists at least in part of an enzyme or enzymes of the cellulase complex. A simple and reliable method of preparing Myrothecium filtrates of uniform and high S activity is reported.

Several properties of S factor in Myrothecium filtrates have been observed. It is operative over a wide pH range. A very considerable uptake of the factor from solution by cotton fiber and a major increase in alkali-centrifuge value of the fiber occur in 10 min. Strength losses take place much more slowly. S factor is moderately stable in sterile filtrates at room tempera ture. Filtrates may be stored in frozen condition or may be dried at 40°C and stored dry with little loss in activity. The active factor is precipitated by acetone and is inactivated by crystal line pepsin.

Although partial inactivation of S factor by heat occurred in 1/2 hr. at temperatures of 60°C and higher, complete inactivation did not take place even at much higher temperatures, and easily measurable activity remained even after heating at 100°C for 1/2 hr. Autoclaving at 15 lbs. steam pressure for 15 min. caused complete inactivation. The same filtrates also exhibited resistance to complete cellulase inactivation by heat when tested by a carboxymethylcellulose- viscosity test for cellulase.
Use of the Ballistic Pendulum for Impact Testing Of Tirecord
Authors: Lyons W. James , Prettyman Irven B.
Published: March 2008

A ballistic pendulum tester for the absolute measurement of the energy (or work) of rupture of cords and yarns on impact is described, and the applied theory of the pendulum is briefly re viewed. Essentially, the test consists of placing a looped specimen, clamped at its ends, in a horizontal plane, so that it is struck in the bend of the loop by the pendulum at the bottom of its swing with sufficient energy to break the specimen. The difference in angular displacement of the pendulum with and without a specimen in place provides the measure of the energy lost in breaking the specimen.

For expressing the results of the test as applied to tirecord, with reference to various condi tions, four physical quantities have been defined. The significance of these quantities is dis cussed, and the results of exploratory tests on a number of rayon constructions are given, showing the application of the various measures.

By means of high-speed photography, used in connection with the pendulum apparatus, the impact rupture process in tirecord has been analyzed, and the energy separated into its force and elongation components. It is revealed that an experimental cord having higher-than-normal strength by the conventional test not only has a lower energy of rupture than a viscose con trol, but also appears to have lower impact strength. The analysis shows that the "breaking point," even in an impact test, is not an instantaneous phenomenon.
Improvement of Luster of Cotton
Authors: Fourt Lyman , Howorth Ruth M. , Rutherford Marjorie B.
Published: March 2008

Luster is not an "absolute" property of the cotton or the yarn, but depends on the sheerness of the fabric, as well as on the weave pattern. One of the reasons for the greater apparent luster of sheer fabrics or thin layers of yarn is that there is less opportunity for light to be scattered within thin layers than in its return from the lower parts of thick layers of yarn. Such scattering adds an approximately equal amount to the reflectances at all angles and so lowers the apparent contrast ratio for the thicker layers.

At the opposite extreme, the reflectance of individual yarns can be determined, and it is demonstrated that yarn removed from the fabric has nearly the same luster as the original yarn, if the weaving crimp is removed. Weaving crimp by itself reduces the measured luster, tending in the same direction as the effect of cross-yarns.

The measurement of contrast ratio in yarns correlates with the average of numerous judg ments by observers. For fabrics, the ability of the eye to see sparkle or high lights, and to find the angle of maximum reflection, gives visual judgment some features not possessed by the more simple types of physical measurement, although even with fabrics there is a large degree of correlation.
Diffusion-Controlled Sorption of Water by Wool Fibers
Authors: Roberts N.F. , Haly A.R.
Published: March 2008

Short communications in the form of Letters to the Editor are intended to provide prompt publication of significant new research results and to permit an exchange of views on papers previously published in the JOURNAL. These communications are not submitted to formal re view as are research papers, and the editors do not assume any share of the author's responsi bility for the information given or the opinions expressed. When work previously published in the JOURNAL is the subject of critical comment, the authors of the original paper are given an opportunity to submit a reply, which will be published concurrently when possible.
Application of Electron Microscopy to the Study of Cellulose Acetate Fibers
Authors: Peck Virgil , Kaye Wilbur
Published: March 2008

The application of electron microscopy to the study of cellulose acetate fibers has been demonstrated by the use of high-resolution Al-Be replicas. Abraded surfaces and the skin of fibers have been studied.

Various materials used for guides abrade the fiber surfaces in different manners. Ceramic guides cause a sticking action, whereas metallic guides produce a shearing of the cellulose acetate surfaces.

The skin consists of a highly oriented layer which is caused by drafting the fiber while solvent is still within the core. It is nonuniform and less extensible than the core. Other factors remaining constant, higher draft causes formation of a thicker skin, which is made up of layers. Yarns broken in tension show very jagged cracks and hairlike protuberances. Pigment dispersions and structural details are revealed by etching the fibers.
Capacity, Dielectric Constant, and Power Factor of Fiber Assemblies
Authors: Hearle J.W.S.
Published: March 2008

The behavior of an air-fiber mixture is discussed. Measurements of the effective dielectric constant and power factor of yarns wound between cones have been made for a number of materials at various densities of packing, at frequencies between 50 c./sec. and 200 kc./sec., and at different moisture conditions. The results are discussed in their relation to the structure of the material, and are used to check the relation between electrical resistance and dielectric constant.
Optical and Electron Microscopic Studies of Cotton Fiber Structure
Authors: Rollins Mary L. , Tripp Verne W.
Published: March 2008

The appearance, growth, and structure of a cotton fiber are described, and photomicrographs and electron micrographs are used to illustrate both gross and fine features of the cell wall morphology.

Heretofore, microscopy of the fiber has been limited to the use of dispersion, swelling and staining methods, in plain and polarized light. The development during the present study of methods for isolation of individual components of the cell wall for purposes of electron microscopy has permitted interesting observations with the light microscope. Quantitative measurements of shrinkage in the isolated primary wall of the cotton fiber during mercerization confirm its restrictive influence on the fiber during swelling in various agents.

Electron microscope studies have been made on isolated primary wall fragments which have been purified by removal of noncellulosic constituents by extraction. These have revealed that the cellulosic portion of the membrane is a network of fibrils interlaced in a sort of fabric in which the general system of orientation is axial on the outer surface and transverse on the inner surface. The cellulose framework is impregnated with a complex of waxes, pectinaceous, and proteinaceous substances.

The first layer of secondary thickening, called the "winding layer," has been isolated from 17-day old cotton fibers and photographed with both optical and electron microscopes. It is revealed to be a continuous sheet or layer made up of alternating bands of fibril bundles which spiral about the fiber at an angle. The wider bands have a closely packed parallel arrangement of fibrils while the narrower bands which connect them consist of two systems of fibrils at right angles to one another in an open-weave pattern.

Electron micrographs of fragments of the main body of the secondary wall show an entirely different pattern of fibril arrangement from either the primary wall or the winding layer.
The Stress Relaxation of Fibrous Materials
Authors: Kubu E.T. , Frei F. , Montgomery D.J.
Published: March 2008

The relaxation of stress in single wool fibers (Columbia 56's) held at fixed extension in water and in dilute salt solutions was studied by techniques described previously. The early portion of the stress relaxation in water did not change much with temperature, and this stress decay may be ascribed to scission of hydrogen bonds. The later portion depended more strongly on temperature, and here the decay is ascribed to hydrolysis of cystine bonds. The relaxation in salt solutions (0.1 N) proceeded faster than in water. The rate and extent of relaxation varied strongly from fiber to fiber, and it was not possible to detect any systematic differences due to anion size, cation size, anion charge, or cation charge. The action of FeCl3 differed from that of the other salts, not an unexpected behavior in view of the oxidizing, acidic, and catalytic effects of this salt. Because the effects of dilute HCl and of cysteine on stress relaxation are not altered by previous treatment with salt solutions, it appears that the salt-sensitive linkages are neither the acid-sensitive bonds nor the cystine bonds; tentatively we ascribe the salt-sensitive linkages to highly ordered regions of hydrogen bondings.
The Improvement of Luster of Cotton
Authors: Fourt Lyman , Howorth Ruth M. , Rutherford Marjorie B. , Streicher Pauline
Published: March 2008

The relations of luster and fiber properties have been studied in numerous specimens of a limited number of varieties, both as natural and as mercerized yarns. The differences of group averages for natural yarns of several Upland varieties appear due to yarn structure factors, but the high luster of American-Egyption cotton must be due to other factors. The gain in luster on mercerization tends to be greater, the greater the original luster, both between and within variety groups.

Within one variety, Deltapine 15, the trend of the luster of mercerized yarn is to increase with increase of the fiber properties of length, wt./in., and maturity, or combinations of these. Fiber strength has no consistent relation to luster within this group. Length shows the same between and within group relations, but wt./in. shows the opposite relations between groups, and maturity shows no trend between groups.

Fiber properties or combinations can be used to select for better than average luster in the longer cottons, but there is still considerable range and overlapping. The improvement possi ble by selection within a group is small compared with either mercerization or use of American- Egyption instead of Upland cotton, but suggests the worth of continued studies in this direction.
The Relationship of the Geometry of Plain Knit Cotton Fabric to Its Dimensional Change and Elastic Properties
Authors: Fletcher Hazel M. , Roberts S. Helen
Published: March 2008

A study was made of the geometry of 34 different plain knit cotton fabrics which were knit, in a wide range of stiffness, of six different yarns (12/1, 20/1, 28/1, 36/1, 40/1, 50/1). Stitch length in terms of course and wale spacings and diameter of yarn ranged from l = 2 p + w + 4.34 d to l = 2 p + w + 6.37 d, as compared with the theoretical value of l = 2 p + w + 5.94 d which Peirce derived.

Both the gray and the finished fabrics exhibited distortion. Laundering with screen- or tumbler-drying brought about rearrangement in the structure so that the data for wale and course spacings of the laundered fabrics followed the parabolic curve p2 = a ( w + b) . When fabrics were given a relaxation treatment to remove distortion, the data of wale and course spacings both before and after laundering also followed a parabolic curve. For the relaxed fabrics, dimensional changes in length and width in laundering were not excessive and did not vary with cover factor (stitch length/diameter of yarn).

The elastic properties changed greatly with cover factor for the unlaundered, relaxed, and laundered fabrics. As cover factor increased, the strain increased linearly when the fabrics were not distorted. Cover factor varied linearly with recovery and permanent set, with delayed re covery and permanent set increasing and immediate elastic recovery decreasing. Poisson's ratio increased somewhat with cover factor when the fabrics were not distorted.
Fiber Blending
Authors: Lund G.V.
Published: March 2008

This paper discusses the inherent "greatest intimacy" of blending possible in a blend yarn of a particular construction, the effect of processing differences on the "intimacy" of a blend, and the factors involved in long-term variation of the composition of a blend yarn, and suggests how the quality of blend yarns may be controlled.
The Application of Radiochemical Techniques to the Study of the Interaction of Hair Fibers with Aqueous Solutions
Authors: Stam Paul B. , White Howard J.
Published: March 2008

Radioactive tracer techniques have proved to be uniquely adaptable to the study of the inter action of hair fibers with various aqueous solutions including dye baths. NaBr solutions, NaBr- HBr solutions, NaCl solutions, and an acid dye bath containing a sulfur-labelled acid dye for wool were used.

It was found that appreciable amounts of NaBr were absorbed by hair from solution with a linear relationship existing between the equilibrium amount absorbed and the molarity of the treating solution. If acidic or basic solutions were used, additional absorption resulting from the well-known amphoteric properties of keratin was observed. In a preliminary experiment, the absorption of each of three componen's of an acid dye bath was followed by taking advantage of differences in radioactive behavior of the three species. Certain rate processes have also been followed.
Modification of Wool by the Application of Linear Synthetic Polyamides
Authors: Delmenico J. , Jackson D.L.C. , Lipson M.
Published: March 2008

Ethanolic potassium hydroxide solutions in concentrations from 0.1% to 5.0% have been used to pretreat wool effectively for the application of N-alkoxymethyl polyamides to prevent felting shrinkage. The alcoholic alkali may be used purely as a pretreatment, or the alkali can be incorporated in the alcoholic resin solution. Even when the alkali pretreatment does not in itself reduce the felting shrinkage, effective shrinkproofing is obtained with less than 1% resin based on the weight of wool.
The Interaction of Hair Fibers with Alkali Bromide Solutions
Authors: Barnard W.S. , Palm A. , Stam P.B. , Underwood D.L. , White H.J.
Published: March 2008

The interaction of hair with alkali bromide solutions has been studied by measuring the amount of salt taken up from a given solution, using a radioactive-tracer technique, and the amount of water taken up from the solution, using a gravimetric technique.

It has been found that: ( 1) alkali bromides are taken up in a manner primarily dependent on the activity of the salt in the solution; ( 2) the amount of water absorbed is increased over the normal regain by the presence of the salt in the hair; ( 3) the ratio of salt to water is greater in the hair than in the external solution; ( 4) the rate of absorption of the salt is slower than the rate of diffusion of the same salt in water; ( 5) both rates and equilibrium are temperature- sensitive.

The interpretation of these results in terms of various simple models of the absorption process is discussed.
The Influence of Chemical Treatment on the Properties of Wool
Authors: Dusenbury J.H. , Mercer E.H. , Wakelin J.H.
Published: March 2008

The view that the cortex of the wool fiber consists of a resistant fraction, the paracortex, and a less resistant fraction, the orthocortex, which extend in the form of two twisted hemi cylinders from one end of the fiber to the other, is used to explain the mechanism of the alkali- solubility test on acid-damaged wool. The effects of acid damage on several single-fiber prop erties and on the resistance of fabrics to flex abrasion have been measured for correlation with alkali-solubility data.

During the initial exposure of the wool to acid damage, alkali solubility is observed to in crease rapidly, corresponding to damage chiefly to the orthocortex; during the later stages, as the damage proceeds into the paracortex, the alkali solubility increases at a much slower rate with time of exposure. The decreases observed in the values for physical properties of the wool with increasing exposure to acid correspond generally with the changes in alkali solubility.

Wool treated with formaldehyde, either preceding or following a series of progressive expo sures to acid, exhibits greatly decreased alkali solubility, but fails to show a corresponding im provement in physical properties. It is suggested that the acid acts to degrade the wool fiber by hydrolyzing peptide bonds, and that the formaldehyde treatments decrease alkali solubility by a cross-linking mechanism that does little to improve the physical properties of the wool.

A good correlation was found between the flex-abrasion resistance of the variously treated fabrics and the energy to break of the corresponding single fibers. The product of breaking stress and breaking extension, a fiber property related to energy to break, was also found to correlate well with the fabric flex-abrasion resistance.
Cotton Quality and Fiber Properties
Authors: Wakeham Helmut , Stickley Hester , Spicer Nancy
Published: March 2008

Several years ago Hall and Elting pointed out that certain raw cottons which had been subjected to the action of fungi in the field or immediately after harvesting suffered a deteriora tion in cotton quality characteristics upon storage in bale form. Such cotton was termed by them to be "cavitomic." This deterioration was most manifest in a reduction of processing efficiency and a lowering of yarn quality. Certain chemical tests (pH and reducible sugars) were established as methods to detect cavitomic cotton. Because there seemed to be consider able lack of information regarding the nature and primary causes of quality deterioration at tributable to cavitomic cotton, the study presented in this paper was undertaken to determine what changes in fiber properties resulting from the "cavitoma" might be responsible for the effects noted previously.

The opportunity for this study was presented when it was found that 3 of 12 bales of a homogeneous lot of Deltapine 15 cotton obtained for another investigation gave positive evidence of being cavitomic. These 3 bales were set aside, stored for a year, and then made into fabric. A similar fabric was simultaneously made from a blend of the remaining 9 bales in a processing comparison. Samples at all stages of processing were taken from both cottons and carefully compared in an extensive laboratory testing program.

It was found that the cavitomic cotton did, in fact, produce more processing waste; less even slivers, rovings, and yarns; 45 % more end breakage in spinning; and yarns as much as 10% weaker than the normal cotton. In the laboratory study it was found that the cavitomic sample exhibited lower flat-bundle strength at a 5-mm. clamp spacing, a lower fiber crimp, and a shorter fiber length than the normal sample. Although the length difference was barely detectable by conventional methods it was clearly established from number-length distributions based on single-fiber length measurements.

It is concluded from this study that some of the fibers are subjected to a localized weakening as a result of the microbial action, either directly or as a result of enzymatic action during storage. These fibers break more easily in processing than fibers in the normal cotton, giving rise to a length distribution biased in the direction of short fibers. This difference in fiber- length distribution is believed to be responsible for the reduction in cotton quality characteristics observed in this and the previous work by Hall and Elting.

These results emphasize the importance of fiber-length uniformity as a factor in raw-cotton quality and the need for more sensitive methods of evaluating this factor than are presently available.
Practical Loom Experience on Weavability Limits
Authors: Dickson John B.
Published: March 2008

Any one making a design for a woven fabric naturally wants to be sure in advance that the loom will weave the design. Thus, a practical designer, when first considering the use of Love's weavability graphs, is likely to ask himself: "The geometry may be all right, but how about loom performance? How closely can I expect the loom results to agree with the graph?" If the designer with these questions in mind wants a quick answer he can get it by looking down the columns in the data tables given in this paper. The last column in each table shows the difference between loom performance and graph prediction, a plus differ ence indicating that the loom outperforms the graph, and a minus that the loom does not come up to the graph. Then he can read the brief summary at the end.

The general answer is that data comparing loom performance with graph limits of weav ability show Love's graphs to be useful practical guides to weavability.
A Progress Report on Cyanoethylated Cotton
Authors: Grant James N. , Greathouse Lucien H. , Reid J. David , Weaver J.W.
Published: March 2008

The mechanism of cyanoethylation of cotton is discussed, and it is shown that for best effi ciency the pick-up of sodium hydroxide must not exceed 15% of the weight of the cotton. Measurements of physical properties show that any increases in the breaking strength or elon gation of yarns are results of changes in frictional forces. The physical properties of cyano ethylated fabrics reflect the properties of the yarn and are also dependent on fabric construction. Extremely high resistance to flat abrasion is obtained with high cyanoethyl substitution.

The density of cyanoethylated cotton is shown to be linearly related to the nitrogen content, and the spread of values obtained has been found to give an estimate of the uniformity of treatment.

Cyanoethylated cotton can be dyed by methods developed for polyacrylonitrile fibers such as those employing acid dyes in the presence of cuprous ion, and the dyed samples so produced are suitable for cross sectioning for microscopic examination. The intensity of dye color can be used as a measure of the amount of cyanoethylation.
A Study of Cotton Fiber Perimeters as Calculated from Arealometer Values at Low and High Compression
Authors: Pearson Norma L.
Published: March 2008

For a group of cottons selected to show a wide range in fiber perimeter, differences in perime ter as calculated from arealometer specific surface and D, for ginned lint samples, were similar to differences in primary-wall perimeter; and the actual perimeter values differed little from those calculated from specific surface and array weight per inch. Moreover, calculated weight per inch differed little from values obtained by the array method. It was shown for a second group of cottons that, with but few exceptions, D, and consequently perimeter, etc., calculated from specific surface and D, decreased from raw stock to picker lap and then increased succes sively for card sliver, first and second drawing sliver, and roving, the greatest changes in D occurring in the conversion of card sliver to first drawing sliver and second drawing sliver to roving. These results indicate that the fiber property values calculated from A and D will be valid for ginned lint samples, but will vary with processed samples and particularly will not be valid for samples that have been subjected to considerable mechanical drafting.
Static Electrification of Filaments
Authors: Hersh S.P. , Montgomery D.J.
Published: March 2008

In order to study the generation of charge on fibrous materials, an apparatus was constructed in which a fiber is held fixed while a second is rubbed across it under con trolled mechanical and ambient conditions. It was found that the reproducibility was usually within ± 5% when the same two fibers were rubbed repeatedly; that the charge generated was dependent on the manner in which the materials were rubbed; and that the magnitude of the charge generated was directly proportional to the length of material rubbed and to the normal force between the fibers (although in some cases a limiting maximum value was reached), but was independent of the apparent area of contact between the fibers and of the tension on the fibers. The effects produced by changes in velocity are more complicated to describe. Charge transfer was found to be independent of velocity when insulators (except Teflon) were rubbed together. For metals on insulators other than Teflon, the charge generated was found to increase linearly with velocity until a limiting value was reached, and then to remain constant. When Teflon and metals were rubbed together, the charge increased linearly with velocity without reaching a maximum. When Teflon was rubbed with insulators, the charge increased linearly with velocity in some cases but remained constant in others.

A study of the dependence of the sign and amount of charge transferred on the nature of the materials rubbed was undertaken, and a triboelectric series was established. For metals on insulators, the amount of charge generated was found to be related to the work function of the metal and the position of the insulator in the triboelectric series. For insulators rubbed on insulators, the amount of charge transferred appeared to be independent of the positions of the insulators in the series.
The Influence of Electrode Potentials on the Extent of Reduction of Cystine in Hair Fibers by Reducing Agents
Authors: Jass Herman E. , Fosdick Leonard S.
Published: March 2008

The effect of reducing agents on hair fibers was measured by studying the relaxation curves of fibers kept at constant elongation in a solution of the reagent. Where reduc tion occurred, the extent of reduction, as measured by the final equilibrium stress level, was dependent on the electrode potential of the reagent. The reduction of stress cor responded to reduction of cystine disulfide linkages within the fiber as shown by chemical analyses of treated hair fibers. The dependence of the amount of reduction on the reagent potential indicates that the cystine residues within the keratin fiber exhibit dissimilar E° values.
The Measurement of the Drag of Cotton Fibers
Authors: Mereness H.A.
Published: March 2008

The drag of cotton fibers has been determined in card-sliver form, using the card- sliver stress-envelope method, and as a sliver made by hand carding using the hand- sliver IP method.

In general, for the 12 cottons studied, there was a significant correlation between fiber drag data obtained using both methods and skein-strength data obtained from yarns made from these cottons. There were, however, a few notable exceptions.

Fiber drag data was found to correlate poorly with interfiber friction data obtained using the Hood Tester, a dynamic method.

The procedures used for evaluating the various cotton fiber drag methods are de scribed in detail.
Crease Recovery of Fabrics
Authors: Krasny John F. , Sookne Arnold M.
Published: March 2008

A study has been made of some single fiber properties of wool, rayon, and Vicara zein fibers at various relative humidities, and the crease recoveries of fabrics made from the same fibers have been measured under identical conditions. In general, the wool and Vicara are similar in many load-extension properties. A fair correlation was found between fabric crease recovery on the one hand, and fiber tensile and work recovery on the other hand at low and normal humidities. At high humidity, and particularly with wet fabrics, however, this relationship no longer holds. A general correlation also seems to exist between fabric crease recovery and work returned by stretched fibers during retraction from extension to 4%.
Part II: Effect of Construction on Crease Recovery of Fortisan Fabrics
Authors: Krasny J.F. , Mallory G.D. , Phillips J.K. , Sookne A.M.
Published: March 2008

An attempt has been made to establish some general relationships between crease recovery and variables of fabric construction by an investigation of 174 systematically varied Fortisan filament fabrics. Crease recovery is generally improved by open con struction, i.e., for any one fabric weight, by employment of high yarn denier and wide yarn spacing, and of open weave, i.e., one with long floats. In the case of asymmetrical weaves (e.g., 2/1 or 5/1 twills) the crease recovery is higher when measured with the longer float outside the crease. In general, little effect on crease recovery was found if the yarn properties were varied only in the filling direction.
Interaction of Acid -Treated Wool and Silk with Water Vapor and Water
Authors: Cacella Arthur F. , White Howard J.
Published: March 2008

Extensive results are given on the effects of HCI and picric acid on the capacity of wool to absorb water. Both the effect of changing the relative humidity and the effect of changing the acid content of the fibers were studied. Less extensive results were obtained using H2SO4, oxalic acid, and Orange II acid and salt on wool, and HC1 on silk. Collateral measurements were also made on the swelling of human hair in picric acid solution and on the electrical resistance of wool fibers containing acid at various relative humidities.

The absorption of acid decreases the capacity of wool to absorb water at low and moderate relative humidities. The efficiency with which the absorption of water is reduced depends on the identity of the acid.

At the highest relative humidities the acids divide into two groups. In the case of the first group, of which picric acid is an example, the effect of acid on the absorption of water is the same as at lower humidities. In the case of the second group, of which HCI is an example, there is a second mechanism of interaction, which tends to increase the absorption of water and competes with the mechanism causing the decrease at lower relative humidities. The second mechanism may become dominant, causing a net in crease. This has been shown by direct measurement and by analysis of swelling measurement.

The mechanism of interaction decreasing the absorption is identified as competitive absorption of acid on primary bonding sites for water. The mechanism of the interaction increasing absorption has been tentatively identified as osmotic absorption of water resulting from mobility of absorbed anions at the highest relative humidities. It is also possible that anion hydration is important in some cases.
Effect of Kiering on the Crystallinity of Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Nelson Mary L. , Segal Leon , Ziifle Hilda M.
Published: March 2008

Although kier boiling is a common commercial treatment applied to cotton, its effect on the crystallinity of cotton cellulose apparently has not been investigated.

In the present work, the effect on the crystalline-amorphous ratio of a laboratory kiering and of alcohol extraction and boiling in water under pressure has been studied. Acid-hydrolysis crystallinity determinations and moisture-sorption measurements on three varieties of cotton have indicated (1) that standard purification treatments can increase the crystallinity of raw cotton; (2) that the extent of crystallization varies with the in dividual sample; and (3) that the crystallinity values reported in the literature for puri fied cottons are probably higher than those for native cottons because of the changes induced by the purification treatments.
The Soiling Characteristics of Textile Fibers
Authors: Weatherburn A.S. , Bayley C.H.
Published: March 2008

Methods are described for measuring the comparative soiling tendencies of textile fibers. It is shown that reflectance readings on soiled fibers measure an overall effect, part of which can be attributed to the weight and particle-size distribution of the retained soil, and part to the optical properties of the fibers themselves. It is suggested that the "effective soil content," which is defined as the weight of soil retained multiplied by the specific absorbance (of light) of that soil, is a more significant criterion of soiling than is either the weight of soil retained or the decrease in reflectance produced by the soil. Relative values for the effective soil content can be calculated from reflectance readings through use of the Kubelka-Munk equation. The soil retention of the fibers studied in creased in the following order: cotton, acetate, viscose rayon, nylon (variable, depending on soiling conditions), wool. The same order was maintained when the time of contact with the soil varied from 5 to 80 min. The soil retention of all the fibers increased with decreasing moisture content of the yarn. The presence of even small amounts of oily material in the yarn increased substantially the amount of soil retained.
Digestibility of Chemically-Modified Wools in Papain-Bisulfite Urea
Authors: Lennox F.G.
Published: March 2008

The digestibility of wool in papain-bisulfite urea is increased by prior treatment with cold concentrated sulfuric acid, nitrous acid, or iodine but is diminished by 1- fluoro-2,4-dinitrobenzene, formaldehyde, chromium compounds, epichlorhydrin, propylene oxide, methyl iodide at pH's above 6, thiocyanate with acetic anhydride at pH's below 6, and, if applied to the reduced fiber, by 1,3-dibromopropane, acrolein, and methyl iodide at pH's above 7. Treatment with acid solutions of various aliphatic alcohols to esterify the carboxyl groups in wool likewise reduces the digestibility, maximum protection being obtained with methanol.

The rapid method of measuring enzyme resistance used in these studies may be generally suitable for detecting wool damage and for selecting chemical methods of modifying wool for assessment by moth-resistance and soil-burial methods.
Thermal Insulation of Single and Multiple Layers of Fabrics
Authors: Morris Mary Ann
Published: March 2008

Thermal insulation, thickness, and volume of air per unit area of fabric have been determined for single and multiple layers of fabrics. A comparison of the thermal in sulation and thickness values obtained by the actual measurement of multiple layers of fabrics to those obtained by adding the values of the individual fabrics involved has been made. In addition, thermal insulation data for the single and multiple layers of fabrics were plotted against the values for the other properties to show the relationships that exist.
Correlation of Laboratory Tests with Fabric Performance
Authors: Press J.J.
Published: March 2008

A basis is developed for predicting functional use characteristics of overcoat fabrics in the laboratory without going through costly, time-consuming field tests. The cor relation obtained, with a representative range of fabrics, between laboratory tests and fabric performance is reviewed. The results are analyzed for significance.
The Tensile Properties of Man-Made and Synthetic Staple Yarns
Authors: Susich G. , Vadala E. Th.
Published: March 2008

The stress-strain properties, the tensile-recovery behavior, and the response to re peated tensioning (cycling) of sixteen staple yarns were investigated. Three man-made (Fiberglas, viscose, acetate) and seven synthetic (nylon, Orlon,2 Dacron,3 Dynel, Saran, polyvinyl chloride, Kuralon) textile materials were tested at standard conditions using the Instron Tensile Tester.

The tensile recovery was obtained by measuring the three elongation and work com ponents. The total work of rupture was divided into the immediately recoverable work, creeping work, and unrecoverable work absorption. Dynamic tests were carried out by extending the yarns in 50 cycles to 80% of their elongation at break and measuring their response during and after this procedure.

A comparison was made between tensile properties of staple yarns and corresponding multifilaments of the same material. Cycling tests were found useful in evaluating those tensile characteristics which are significant for the performance of yarns in service. It was attempted to interpret the behavior of yarns in repeated tensioning and flex abrasion from their known tensile properties.
A Study of the Alcoholysis of Cellulose1
Authors: Valley Richard B.
Published: March 2008

A study was made of the alcoholysis of cotton linters using methanol, n-butanol, n-hexanol, and n-octanol acidified with hydrogen chloride. All traces of water could not be removed from this system, and further water was formed during the degradations by a reaction between the alcohol and the hydrogen chloride. The linters were degraded in all of the alcohols studied. The amount of linters solubilized during the degradations tended to increase as the molecular weight of the alcohol used increased. It appeared that, in the study made, the cellulose was being degraded by hydrolysis caused by the traces of water present. The acidified alcohols combined with the reducing groups formed to give a degraded cellulose with a low reducing value. The residual reducing power was lowest when methanol was used.
The Breaking of Single Cotton Fibers under Various Conditions
Authors: Pearson Ray L. , Funk Albert G. , Eyring Henry
Published: March 2008

Values for percentage elongation at break and average force at break of single cotton fibers immersed in water at various temperatures and in various concentrations of NaOH have been determined by statistical methods. A maximum value of average force in 1 M NaOH is explained by a cooperative effect of the fibrils.
Measurement of Crimp in Single Fibers1
Authors: Brown Alexander
Published: March 2008

A technique is described for the measurement of the crimp content of fibers that is particularly applicable to fibers of high crimp content. The technique is adaptable to the measurement of the permanence to stretch of the crimp, and this permanence is correlated with the permanence to the stretches induced in fiber processing.
Note on the Lignin and Hemicellulose of Jute
Authors: Sarkar P.B. , Mazumdar A.K.
Published: March 2008

Some facts about a combination between lignin and polyuronide hemicellulose of jute fiber are noted. An alkali lignin has been isolated from the fiber and described. An approximate estimate has been made of the different constituents removed by dilute caustic soda at ordinary temperature from jute.