bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Softness of Cotton Yarns as Affected by Fiber and Yarn Properties
Authors: Honold Edith , Grant James N.
Published: March 2008

Yarn softness is evaluated quantitatively as the percent increase in yarn width under a definite lateral force. Single-yarn softness decreases with twist and increases with yarn number and fiber maturity. With the above parameters constant, softness has no relation to fiber linear density. An equation is developed for estimating single-yarn softness from yarn diameter and twist and from fiber maturity. The softness of 2-ply yarns as related to the component single yarns is discussed. For modified cottons, in creased fiber friction apparently contributes to the decrease in yarn softness.

An equation is developed to estimate the single-yarn diameter from yarn number and twist multiplier. The possibility that the diameter of the 2-ply yarn is related mathematically to the ply yarn twist multiplier and to the softness of the original unplied single yam is discussed.
Some Studies on the Formation of Hooks in Carding
Authors: Wakankar V.A. , Bhaduri S.N. , Ramaswamy B.R. , Ghosh G.C.
Published: March 2008

Hook formation at fiber ends and fiber disorder in the card sliver have been studied by using a fluorescent-tracer-fiber technique and Lindsley's method for measuring comb ing ratio. The rate of throughput at the card and the cylinder and doffer loadings have been shown to affect the proportions of the different types of hooks in the sliver. Other factors, such as the type of wire on cylinder and doffer, the action of flats, and the doffer comb speed, have been seen to have no influence on hook formation. Within the range of speeds investigated, the speed ratio between doffer and cylinder has little influence on hook formation. On the basis of the results obtained and the different hypotheses of Morton, it is suggested that the trailing and leading hooks are both formed at the junc tion of cylinder and doffer, but by different mechanisms.
The Physical Properties of Wool Fibers at Various Regains
Authors: Feughelman M. , Watt I.C.
Published: March 2008

Watt and Kennett [11] have shown that water may be incorporated into the keratin structure by long exposure at relative humidities between 5% and 80%. This incor porated water is not removed on drying in vacuo and results in an increase of the "dry" weight of the wool fibers. Mechanical tests carried out on fibers containing incorporated water show an increased stiffness for relative humidities less than 60-70% over stiff ness measured at the same humidities after the incorporated water had been removed by saturation in liquid water. It is proposed that the water which is incorporated into the keratin structure and produces the "dry" weight increase becomes immobilized at intermediate relative humidities by increased strength of bonding of the water directly with the keratin structure. Saturation in liquid water reduces the amount of associa tion between any one molecule and the keratin structure. Drying rapidly from this state hence lowers the possibility of formation of strong, direct bonds between water and keratin.
Relaxation Shrinkage of Wool Fabrics: Its Occur rence in Worsteds and Dependence upon Cloth Structure
Authors: Baird K.
Published: March 2008

Relaxation shrinkage measurements have been made on seven worsted fabric struc tures from five different mills. It appears that the warp shrinkages differ significantly between mills and also between structures; by contrast no regular variation was dis cerned for the weft shrinkages.

Examination of the load-extension curves of these fabrics has shown big differences in the extensions which occur in the warp direction at loads typical of those found in finishing machines. A linear relationship between relaxation shrinkage and fabric ex tensibility in the warp direction is shown to hold for all mills.
The Accelerotor as a Test Machine for Felting Shrinkage
Authors: Stott G.L.
Published: March 2008

Results of felting shrinkage tests on a number of worsted and woolen fabrics using a modified form of the AATCC Accelerotor1 abrasion tester reveal a significant rela tionship to shrinkages obtained in three domestic washing machines. This, together with the rapidity with which these tests can be carried out, show that the modified Accelerotor could be useful as a laboratory-scale felting-shrinkage tester.
Studies on High Fastness to Light in Coloring Matters in Hydrophobic Substrates
Authors: Giles Charles H. , Rahman Syed M. K.
Published: March 2008

Disperse dyes C. I. 12770, 61100, and 61105, have been applied to disoriented polyester film, oriented polyester film and fiber (Terylene), and to cellulose secondary acetate and triacetate ( films and fibers). Some control tests with a direct cotton dye (C. I. 24410) on regenerated cellulose films (normal and gel state ) have been included. Spectral absorption (x- and y-baud) and lightfastness (fading rate and CF curve) measurements have been made in dry and damp atmospheres.

The dyes become increasingly aggregated with rise in concentration, in each substrate, and also with rise in porosity (i.e., moisture regain) of all the substrates. The results show that if the adsorbed dye were freely accessible to water vapor and air, lightfastness would in all cases follow the normal rule and increase with the degree of aggregation of the dye, and thus with the moisture regain of the substrate. In substrates of very low regain, however, i.e., polyesters, fading is retarded by the "diffusion-restriction effect," i.e., the restricted access of, probably, water vapor and air to the dye particles. Lightfastness of disperse dyes on polyesters is thus higher than would be expected, and in one case (C. 1. 61100) it is better on Terylene fiber than on cellulose acetates. In films lightfastness rises in the order: disoriented polyester < oriented polyester < cellu lose triacetate < cellulose secondary acetate.

A hydrogen-bonding carrier (4-hydroxydiphenyl) reduces the degree of aggregation of a disperse dye in polyester film. This effect probably accounts for its deleterious effect on the lightfastness of disperse dyes on Terylene fiber.

The results agree with published data on lightfastness of disperse dye on cellulose acetate and polyester fibers.

In agreement with Color Index data, the present results appear to show that sym metry of substitution in anthraquinone disperse dyes favors the diffusion-restriction effect in polyester fibers and thus tends to raise lightfastness.
Tensile Behavior of Cut Skeins and Single Threads
Authors: Radhakrishnan T. , Shelat B.R.
Published: March 2008

A simple theoretical formulation is developed whereby it is possible to predict the load-extension behavior of an ideal bundle of textile strands in terms of the behavior of the components. Further, it is shown that the same theory can be applied in reverse to extract from the load-extension curves of the bundle the following tensile properties of single strands: (a) the extensibility distribution (b) the average breaking strength. The theory has been applied to single strands and cut skeins of cotton and viscose staple fiber yarns and is shown to be very successful in these cases.
Increasing the Felting Rate of Wool
Authors: McPhee J.R.
Published: March 2008

Treatment with acid solutions of iodate or chlorate increases the rate of felting of wool in soap solution by about 30%. Reagents used for carroting rabbit fur, such as mercuric nitrate in nitric acid, peracetic acid, or alkaline thioglycolate, increase felting rate but cause severe damage. Acid and alkaline peroxide, acid chlorine, hypochlorite at pH 8, ethanolic sodium hydroxide, persulfate, and acid bromate can all produce a small increase in felting rate under mild conditions of treatment, but more severe treat ment decreases the felting rate. Permanganate/saturated salt, permanganate/water, permanganate/hypochlorite, and permonosulfuric acid treatments do not give increased felting rate under any conditions. ,

The best treatments found for increasing felting are those with acid iodate or chlorate, but these would be too expensive, for the limited increase in felting rate , obtained, to be useful industrially.

Increased felting appears to be due to weakening of fibers by extensive reaction of the reagent with cortex rather than to changes in frictional properties. Decreased felting seems logicall to be due to reaction with cuticle, but a large decrease in felting rate can be obtained with a relatively small change in the difference between anti- and with-scale frictional coefficients (0.29 to 0.22), as measured by the capstan method. Reaction does not have to be confined to, or concentrated at, the surface of fibers to decrease felting rate. All that is necessary is that a sufficient degree of modification of cuticle be obtained, with or without extensive modification of cortex. Industrially useful shrinkproofing reagents are those which are sufficiently reactive to give cuticle modification when low concentrations are used and thus when over-all reaction and damage are correspondingly low.
Mechanical Principles of Natural Crimp of Fiber
Authors: Brand R.H. , Backer Stanley
Published: March 2008

A mathematical model for natural fiber crimp is proposed which assumes that the analogy with Timoshenko's theory of bimetal thermostats is valid. Formulas for crimp parameters are derived accordingly. They correctly account for the inverse relation ship between crimp and denier which has been shown to exist for wool fibers. Experi mental data obtained with fibers related to "Orlon Sayelle" 2 Type 21 fibers support the validity of the assumed model. The crimp model hypothesis leads logically to a helical coil spring model for the spatial configuration of natural crimp of fibers. The actual spatial path of crimp is shown to depend in part on fiber bending and torsion rigidities and environmental constraints. The equations derived by Holdaway, based on the helical coil model, for the force-extension characteristic of natural crimp are shown to be valid for the elastic behavior of crimped fibers in the unerimping regions of the load-elongation curve.

A technique is described for direct measurement of the ratio of bending to torsion rigidity of naturally crimped fibers. For a number of fibers, of the type that includes Orlon Sayelle Type 21, the ratio has been measured and found to vary between about 1.0 and 3.5.
Studies in Adsorption
Authors: Giles Charles H. , Montgomery Alan P. , Tolia Arun H.
Published: March 2008

Relative rates of adsorption by gelatin and by wool have been determined for a number of series of sulfonated azo acid dyes and 2: 1 dye-metal complexes.

It is shown that: (i) The rate of adsorption of each dye by a given area of the external surface of gelatin is about four times that by the same area of the external surface of wool; (ii) the logarithm of the rates falls linearly with both the number of substituent groups in the dye molecule and with its molecular volume; each series of dyes gives points lying on a different line.

A few experiments, including measurements of absorption spectra, are described in which benzyl alcuhol and other organic solutes have been added to the dyebath. Benzyl alcohol, and to a less extent dioxan, tends to disaggregate dyes of low basicity when added to their aqueous solutions, but D-glucose and inositol do not do so. Of these solutes, only benzyl alcohol is effective in accelerating dyeing. It is considered that the mecha nisms already proposed to account for the acceleration of dyeing by addition of solvents probably all operate, but the most important may be the effect of adsorption of the solvent by the fiber.

On the basis of the present results, the very rapid adsorption of benzyl alcohol by wool is attrihutahle to its low molecular volume and nonionic nature.
Modification of Wool in Dimethyiforpiamide with Mono- and Diisocyanates
Authors: Koenig N.H.
Published: March 2008

By virtue of hot dimethylformamide as a medium, wool has been chemically modified with organic isocyanates. Fabrics have been treated with 19 aromatic and aliphatic monoisocyanates, 6 diisocyanates, and 1 polyisocyanate. With phenyl isocyanate as a model compound, the reaction is most rapid when the mole-ratio of isocyanate to dimethylformamide is about 1 to 2. With p-bromophenyl isocyanate, an uptake (weight increase) of 71% of the weight of the wool has been achieved. Most of the treatments. particularly with diisocyanates, considerably increase chemical resistance. The modified fabrics are also more resistant to laundering shrinkage; however, their physical properties are usually poorer than those of the untreated fabric.
The Interrelationships of the Mechanical Properties of Wool Keratin
Authors: Whiteley K.J.
Published: March 2008

Load-extension, supercontraction, set. and post-yield creep characteristics of two different fiber types containing reduced methylated, reduced re-cross-linked, and normal disulfide bonds are presented. A close relationship is observed between the extension at the turnover point and the early stages of supercontraction and post-yield creep. Final values for set. supercontraction, and post-yield creep are closely related but cannot be predicted from load-extension curves.
A Critical Comparison of Available Methods for the Spectrophotometric Determination of Micro- Amounts of Copper in Textiles
Authors: Kempton A.G. , Greenberger M. , Kaplan A.M.
Published: March 2008

A survey has been made of methods available for the spectrophotometric determina tion of copper in fabrics treated with copper-containing fungicides. Seven of the most promising copper reagents were compared on the basis of sensitivity, simplicity of pro cedure, and specificity for copper in the presence of the metallic oxides used to render fabrics resistant to fire, ultraviolet light, and water. Methods employing rubeanic acid and zinc dibenzyldithiocarbamate offered the best combination of desirable character istics.

These methods proved to be as precise as the electrolytic method described in current federal specifications. These methods were also successfully tested against commercially treated fabrics obtained through actual Army procurements.

Since only 3-5 mg of fabric are required for each determination, these spectrophoto metric methods offer a means of determining the evenness of application of the fungicide on the fabric. The analysis of commercial fabrics treated with copper 8-quinolinolate and copper naphthenate indicated that the textile manufacturing industry is capable of obtaining a very even distribution of this mixture of fungicides throughout the material.

Details of the rubeanic acid and zinc dibenzyldithiocarbamate methods are presented.
Characterization of Acrylic Fiber Structure
Authors: Craig J.P. , Knudsen J.P. , Holland V.F.
Published: March 2008

The fine structure of acrylic fiber has been characterized using techniques based on gas adsorption, density, electron microscopy, and light microscoly. The techniques are complementary and have heen applied to acrylic fiber prepared under current commercial conditions. The existence of a fibril-void type of structure, with voids and fibrils of the order of 200 Å diameter, has been established for wet-spun fibers. This structure was shown to originate during coagulation and has been followed through stretching and collapsing. Dry-spun samples developed a similar structure, which becomes evident after the orientation step.
X-Ray Measurements of Crystallinity and Crystallite Size in Swollen and Hydrolyzed Cottons
Authors: Patil N.B. , Dweltz N.E. , Radhakrishnan T.
Published: March 2008

Crystallinity and crystallite size determinations have been carried out on a number of samples of swollen, hydrolyzed, and swollen and hydrolyzed cotton fibers, employing x-ray diffraction techniques and a Geiger counter recording spectrometer. A new hi variate analysis technique has been developed in order to determine the crystalline con tent of samples in which two crystalline phases are present, namely cellulose I and II. In the determination of crystallite dimensions the tilted fiber technique has been adopted for measuring crystallite lengths. A new method of resolving superposed line profiles for the measurement of crystallite width has also been developed. The results of these studies seem to suggest that there is a very close relationship between crystallinity and crystallite volume for all the types of chemical treatment studied, and that increasing crystallinity is a measure of increasing crystallite volume. On the other hand, no unique relationship between crystallinity and any one crystallite dimension has emerged for all the treatments studied. However, there are relationships which are specific to different kinds of chemical treatment of cotton.
Stress-Strain Relationships in Yarns Subjected to Rapid Impact Loading
Authors: Smith Jack C. , Blandford Josephine M. , Shouse Paul J. , Towne Kathyrn M.
Published: March 2008

Samples of high-tenacity deacetylated cellulose acetate yarn were braided or plied and twisted by various amounts. Stress-strain data were obtained on these yarns at conventional rates of straining and under conditions involving transverse and longi tudinal impact at velocities near 40 m/sec. Strain-wave velocities were also measured. The effects of twisting and braiding were the same at high rates of straining and at conventional rates of straining. The addition of twist or braid caused the following effects. The initial slope of the stress-strain curve and the strain-wave velocity de creased. The bend in the curve at the yield stress became less sharp so that the stress- strain curve became more linear. The breaking tenacity decreased and the breaking elongation increased. The work required to break a unit mass of yarn material re mained unchanged. The calculated value of the longitudinal critical velocity at which a specimen breaks immediately upon impact in tension remained unchanged. Calculated transverse critical velocities tended to decrease as the yarn was twisted or braided.
Hydrolysis Resistance of Cross-Linking Finishes for Cotton
Authors: Andrews B. A. Kottes , Arceneaux Richard L. , Frick J.G. , Reid J. David
Published: March 2008

The relative acid and alkali stabilities of various nitrogenous finishes for cotton have been compared. The effect the groups attached to the carbonyl and the substituents on the amido nitrogen exert on the electron density of the amido group has been related to acid and alkali resistance.

The finishes studied included those derived from urea. cyclic ureas, carbamates, and carhoxylic amides. In general, the groups exerting strong electron-attracting force on the amido group will increase the acid stability of the resulting finish and decrease the alkali resistance, and the groups which are strong electron donors increase the alkali stability and decrease the acid resistance.
A Critical Study of Wool Carbonizing 1
Authors: Mizell Louis R. , Davis A. Eleanor , Oliva Edward C.
Published: March 2008

A critical study was made of the sulfuric acid carbonizing process. Three main fac tors governed the strength loss of the wool: (1) the acid content of the wool as it en tered the dryer; (2) the moisture content of the acid-containing wool as it entered the dryer; and (3) the temperature of the air used in drying the extracted, acid-containing wool prior to baking. Increase in any one of these factors beyond a certain level, while the others were maintained constant, caused a loss in tensile strength of the wool ; these three factors were all interrelated in their effects on the strength of the wool. Studies are presented which indicate the critical limits for each factor in raw wool carbonizing. Conditions were found which cumpletely charred the burrs in the wool without causing any measurable strength loss. The rates of absorption of acid by the wool and by the burrs were found to be very different. This was used to advantage in depositing the amount of acid on the burr contaminants required for satisfactory carbonization, while applying a minimum amount of acid in the wool. Wetting agents in the acid hath also had beneficial effects. Practical implications of the data for commercial processing are discussed.
Yarn and Fabric Properties and Processing Performance of Cotton Treated with a Cross-Linking Resin
Authors: Ruppenicker George F. , Brown John J. , Hoffman Milton J.
Published: March 2008

Results are reported of an investigation to determine the general processing per formance, in the cotton processing system, of cotton containing various percentages of fibers treated with dimethylol ethyleneurea, and the properties of the resultant yarns and fabrics. The resin-treated cotton was evaluated in 100% form and in blends with scoured cotton. Fabrics woven with filling yarns spun from the 100% treated cotton and the blends, using a common untreated warp, were evaluated for warmth properties in terms of thickness, bulk density, and air permeability.

Difficulties were experienced in processing cotton with large percentages of resin- treated fibers due mainly to uneven drafting and the formation of static charges during the carding and drawing operations. Yarns spun from cotton containing resin-treated fibers were progressively weaker. less uniform, and more degraded in appearance as the percentage of resin-treated fibers was increased. Yarn elongation-at-break decreased with the addition of resin-treated fibers, but elongation at loads below the breaking point increased, indicating a relationship between yarn elongation at low loads and yarn bulk. Although experimental fabrics having improved warmth properties were made from yarns composed of 50% or more resin-treated fibers, it was concluded that, with present knowledge, the lower yarn quality and the poor processing performance would make production difficult on a commercial scale.
Polarographic Determination of Isophthalic Acid in the Presence of Terephthalic Acid in Polyester Fibers
Authors: Beníšek Ladislav
Published: March 2008

The reduction waves of 5-nitroisophthalic acid and 2-nitroterephthalic acid were studied in aqueous buffered solutions. By means of polarography there was shown in these solutions the presence of two forms, whose ratio varies with the pH. The determination of 5-nitroisophthalic acid in the presence of 2-nitroterephthalic acid may be carried out by means of derivative polarography in the pH range of 9.2-10.2. There were found optimum conditions for the determination of 5-nitroisophthalic acid in the nitrated hydrolysate of the polyester fiber. The isophthalic acid content was determined in 49 samples of polyester fibers.
The Recovery of Crimp of Wool Fibers
Authors: Banbaji Joseph , Alexander Ernst , Shiloh Miriam , Lewin Menachem
Published: March 2008

In this work the uncrimping force and energy are used to characterize the crimp of wool fibers. These parameters are measured through the load-extension curves of single wool fibers.

It seemed necessary to investigate the stability of the uncrimping energy and force. This stability is referred to as crimp recovery. The dependence of crimp recovery on recovery times as well as on the amount of extension was studied.

It was found that for immediate recovery the crimp decreases, and that this decrease varies with the percent of final extension of the fibers. When the fibers are kept in a relaxed state after the final extension for various times, it is found that the crimp recovery is almost complete after 24 hr of relaxation; with smaller times of relaxation the crimp recovery increases with time, while the extent of the recovery depends on the amount of final percent of extension—the higher the extension the lower the recovery.

1 Instron Engineering Corporation, Canton, Mass.

2 American Society for Testing and Materials.
Application of an Electronic Counter to Determine Fiber Fineness Distribution in Wool Top
Authors: O'Connell R.A. , Martsch R.J.
Published: March 2008

The Coulter Counter, an electronic particle-sizing instrument, can appraise the average fineness and fineness distribution in wool tops with precision equivalent to that of the standard microscopic method. A time saving of 1/2 to 3/4 is realized over the microscopic method, with avoidance of subjective errors inherent in the latter. Oper ating conditions are described, along with methods of sampling, preparing a nonswelling but conductive solvent system, calibrating and checking the instrument, and minimizing error. Examples of results are presented with comparative microscopic data.
The Operating Principles of a Jute Sliver Thickness Detector
Authors: Mather J.N.
Published: March 2008

The mass profile of textile slivers is required for process control and routine testing. It can be derived from the thickness profile got by passing the material between loaded cylindrical rollers, provided the effects of different test conditions and the relation between thickness and mass are known. These have been examined for jute finisher card slivers.

The effects of roller diameter, compressive force, and throughput speed have been included in a single relation. Diameter affected the area compressed only, and through put speed was unimportant for compression times longer than 0.1 sec. Thickness was proportional to mass for the short lengths of sliver under instantaneous compression. Fiber moisture content and denier had negligible effect on the thickness over the ranges of practical interest, fiber alignment being more important.

The compression characteristics of slivers loaded statically under a plane shoe are discussed, also.
Effect of Light Upon Wool
Authors: Launer Herbert F.
Published: March 2008

In Berkeley, California, it was found that sunlight bleached wool during exposures of 1 to 150 sun-hr. However, when the visible light was excluded, wool was yellowed by the solar ultraviolet. Bleaching was increased by progressive exclusion of solar UV with various cut-off filters and was greatest with only visible light, the visible violet being the most effective. Solar UV below 311 mμ was the most yellowing. Thus, the net effect of sunlight upon wool varies with its spectral composition, and its variability in place and time probably explains the variable results, yellowing or bleaching, reported by others around the world. Full sunlight also bleached wet wool that, after a long induction period, turned yellow, apparently, in a dark-follow reaction.
The Plasticity of Wool
Authors: de Wet P.J. , Speakman J.B.
Published: March 2008

Estimation of the proportions and sulfur contents of the keratoses in thirteen, mainly South African, merino wools has shown that the plasticity of wool decreases with in creasing proportion of α-keratose and with increasing sulfur content of both α- and y-keratoses.
Diffusion Kinetics of Orange-II in Nylon 661
Authors: Davis G. Thomas , Taylor Hugh S.
Published: March 2008

The effect of draw ratio on the diffusion kinetics of Orange-II in nylon 66 has been investigated in an infinite dyebath buffered at pH 5.8 at temperatures between 40° and 102° C. Diffusion coefficients were ohtained by applying Hill's equation to the total amount of dye adsorbed as a function of time. As the fiber is drawn, there is very little reduction in the equilibrium adsorption of dye, but the diffusion coefficient is reduced to about one-half its previous value for each integral unit of draw ratio. Activation energy for diffusion increases from about 22 to about 28 kcal/mole as the draw ratio increases from 1.0 to 5.99.

The effect of a boiling water pretreatment on the rate of diffusion relative to un treated samples depends upon the temperature at which they are compared. Even though the density increases upon treatment, the rate of diffusion is greater when dyed at 60° but lower when dyed at 102°. The wet treatment lowers the activation energy for diffusion to about 18 kcal/mole, a value which is nearly independent of draw ratio.
Longitudinal Swelling of Permanently Set Wool Fibers
Authors: Weigmann Hans-Dietrich , Rebenfeld Ludwig , Dansizer Cornelia
Published: March 2008

The longitudinal swelling of permanently set wool fibers was measured by a desorption method as a function of the time the fibers were held in the extended state. It was found that, after a setting treatment involving extensions below 40%. the longitudinal swelling, following an initial rapid increase, was independent of setting time and the dimensional changes of the fiber resulting from the setting process. At a setting ex tension of 60%, a maximum in longitudinal swelling is reached, which is followed by a rapid decrease and then by a gradual decrease with increasing times of setting. The results are interpreted in terms of differences in the stabilization mechanism for the extended configuration, depending on the strain level. Elimination of free sulfhydryl groups, before the fibers are released from extension, decreases chain mobility and, therefore, decreases disordering during the subsequent recovery step.
Relative Reactivities of Cotton Celluloses: Formylation
Authors: Rowland Stanley P. , Pittman Paul F.
Published: March 2008

Autocatalytic formylation with 90% formic acid at 30° C has been employed as a means of assessing the chemical reactivities of cotton celluloses in a variety of physical and chemical modifications. The reaction is reproducible and sensitive to small changes in physical or chemical modification of cotton. By comparing relative degrees of formylation at a selected reaction period (16-hr), relative reactivities are measured and assigned to cotton celluloses. Significant differences in relative reactivities are found with different lots of cotton, degrees of purification, physical state, tension, mercerilation, amine treatments, and modification by various cross-linking agents, the directions of effects being consistent with those indicated by moisture regain, dye absorption, crystal linity by acid hydrolysis and crystallinity by X-ray diffraction. Relative reactivities obtained via formylation are discussed, together with the relationship between formylation and acetylation.
The Stress-Strain Behavior of Dimensionally and Structurally Non-Uniform Wool Fibers in Water
Authors: Collins J.D. , Chaikin M.
Published: March 2008

The areaa-atrain behaviors of wool fibers varying in cross-sectional area are cal culated theoretically and the predicted effects verified experimentally. Calculation of the uniform fiber curve has been carried out and values are obtained for the curve parameters for a range of cross-sectional area variability.

Besides this type of dimensional irregularity, structural variations occur in wool fibers and these can considerably influence stress-strain behavior. A knowledge of the relationship between structural variability and stress-strain behavior can be used to test the adequacy of the various models which have been proposed to explain the mechanical hehavior of wool fibers. 'rhis has been achieved by predicting the stress-strain behavior that might be expected from fibers with varying structural compositions and comparing the results with actual stress-strain behavior variations (after removing any effects due to cross-sectional area variability).

1. Collins, J. D., J. Sci. Instr.40, 198-199, 1963.

2. Collins, J. D., Ph.D. Thesis, University of N.S.W., Australia, 1964.

3. Collins, J. D. and Chaikin, M., Proceedings of the 3rd International Wool Textile Research Confer ence, Paris, 1965. 4. Dusenbury, J. H. and Wakelin, J. H., Textile Res. J.28, 989-1005, 1958.

5. Evans, T. F. and Montgomery, D. J., Textile Res. J.23, 689-701, 1953.

6. Feughelman, M., Textile Res. J.29, 223-228, 1959. 7. Feughelman, M. and Haly, A. R., Colloque, "Struc ture de la Laine," Paris, 159-183, 1961.

8. Feughelman, M. and Lunney, H. W., Wool Sci. Rev.21, 25, 1962.

9. Feughelman, M., Textile Res. J.33, 1013-1022. 1963. 10. Kenny, P. and Chaikin, M., J. Text. Inst.50, T18- 38. 1959.

11. Lindberg, J., Textile Res. J.23, 683-689, 1953.

12. Lundgren, H. P. and Ward, W. H., "Ultrastructure of Protein Fibres," edited by R. Borasky, printed in U.S.A. by Academic Press, New York and Lon don, 1963, Page 64.

13. Meredith, R., J. Textile Inst.36, T107-130, 1945.

14. Munakata, H., Textile Res. J.34, 97-109, 1964.

15. Rigby, B. J., Textile Res. J.32, 1034-1035, 1962.

16. Schiefer, H. F., Fourt, L., and Krofp, R. T., Tex tile Res. J.17, 689-713, 1947.

17. Skertchly, A. R. B., J. Textile Inst.55, T154-161. 1964.

18. Skertchly. A. R. B., Nature202, 161-164, 1964.

19. Turner. J. D. and Woods. H. J., Colloque, "Struc ture de la Laine," 19-24, Paris, 1961.
Thermally-Induced Structural Changes in Wool
Authors: Menefee E. , Yee G.
Published: March 2008

As wool is heated in a vacuum, the following succession of events occurs: ordinary drying, removal of strongly-bound water at 150°C, a possible glass transition in the amorphous protein at about 160°, slow formation of amide crosslinks at about 160°, melting of a small part of the ordered wool protein at 215°, rapid formation of amide cross links above 215° in the newly formed amorphous material, melting of the major ordered part of the wool protein at 235°, disulfide bond cleavage at 230-250°C, and general pyrolysis above 250°C.
Part V: Yellowing and Bleaching by Ultraviolet and Visible Arc Light1
Authors: Launer Herbert F.
Published: March 2008

Various spectral regions isolated from mercury and carbon arcs affect wool as follows: ultraviolet at 331 mμ and below increases yellowness, visible light above 398 mμ decreases yellowness, and the transition region in between does both. Thus, near uv, at 365 or 389 mμ, yellows wool in the first few minutes but subsequently removes this yellowness and then continues to bleach the wool. Aside from the visible effects, the various uv bands, even when close together, have distinct effects upon the uv reflectance curves. The results with electric sources confirm, extend, and resolve those with sunlight.
The Stress—Strain Characteristics of Animal Fibers After Reduction and Alkylation
Authors: Crewther W.G.
Published: March 2008

Animal fibers were reduced to varying degrees with solutions of thiols and alkylated with methyl iodide or ethylene dibromide. The stress-strain curves of S-methylated Lincoln wool fibers showed the following characteristics. The stresses at the end of the Hookean region and yield region and the breaking stress approached zero at zero disulfide content and maintained a constant ratio. Likewise the slopes of the yield and post-yield region showed a constant ratio and extrapolated to zero at zero disulfide content. The decrease in stress or slope per disulfide bond broken was much greater at low disulfide contents than at high disulfide contents. The strains at the end of the yield region and at break increased with decreasing disulfide content and the effect of each disulfide broken was greatest at low disulfide contents. The relationship between strain at the end of the yield region and residual disulfide content was the same, within experimental error, for all fiber types.

Reduction followed by reaction with ethylene dibromide did not greatly affect the stress-strain properties of the fibers. Reduction without subsequent alkylation, how ever, decreased the stiffness of the fibers much more than the rupture of an equal number of disulfide bonds by reduction and methylation.

It is concluded that side-chain interactions between helical structures and matrix molecules containing many intrachain disulfide bonds are chiefly responsible for stiffen ing the fiber in the Hookean region. The yield and post-yield regions also are con sidered in terms of interactions between microfibrils and matrix, particularly with respect to the effects of disulfide bonds linking proteins in the two phases.
Improving the Operation and Understanding of the Neptel
Authors: Tallant John D.
Published: March 2008

Improvements to make the Neptel2 instrument of more practical use by improving its stability are described, It was found that the yarn imperfections measured by the instrument are very short in nature. are not influenced by medium and long term variability, and that the variation in the number of imperfections between different yarn numbers of the same cotton and processing organization very closely follows a square root law. Operating procedures with the new lamp power supply and other modifica tions are described.
Local Heat Transfer Coefficients of Laboratory Facial Protective Systems in Wind
Authors: Fonseca George F. , Woodcock Alan H.
Published: March 2008

This paper describes a laboratory experiment which determined the local heat transfer coefficients from a nonuniformly insulated cylinder in wind. Application of these data to the problem of facial cooling in wind is discussed. It is shown that the quantitative data obtained are comparable to the beliefs based on qualitative human experience.
The Effect of Changes in the Relative Humidity on the Electrical Conductivity of Wool Fibers
Authors: Algie J.E. , Watt I.C.
Published: March 2008

The changes which take place in the electrical conductance of wool fibers, following the application of sudden changes in the humidity from zero up to various values, have been studied as a function of time. There is an initial rapid increase followed by a long-term increase or decrease in the conductance (depending upon the final relative humidity). The changes have been related to changes in the mobility of the absorbed water. Structural modifications produced by a setting process also have been found to affect the conductance. It has been concluded that wool fibers cannot be considered as a fixed unchanging substrate for absorption as changes in the relation between water content and conductivity occur during the absorption process and as a result of the fibers past absorption history.
I. Vinylation of Cotton Slivers and Print Cloth
Authors: Chiddix M.E. , Glickman S.A. , Hecht O.F.
Published: March 2008

Cotton cellulose in the form of slivers and print cloth was successfully vinylated with acetylene without destroying the fiber structure. D.S. (degree of substitution) values up to 0.70 were achieved in vinylation reactions at 120° C, using potassium hydroxide as the catalyst. The important variables in the vinylation reaction were found to be the catalyst and its concentration, the moisture content of the catalyst-impregnated cotton, solvent, acetylene pressure, time, and temperature. The weight of vinylated cotton re covered was 95% to 100% of the weight of the cotton used in the case of the best vinylation conditions, and the vinylated cotton showed good storage stability.
Vinylated Cotton
Authors: Chiddix M.E. , Duncan J.J. , Fredericks R.J. , Glickman S.A. , Hecht O.F.
Published: March 2008

Samples of vinylated cotton slivers with DS (degree of substitution) values of about 0.05 and below were found to be soluble in cupriethylenediamine hydroxide solution. Vis cosity determinations indicated D.P.'s of 97 to 586 which were considerably lower than that of the starting cotton (about 3000). Samples with higher D.S. values were all insoluhle in the reagent indicating at least a small amount of cross-linking.

X-ray diffraction patterns made from the vinylated cotton slivers and cloth showed a nearly complete loss of cellulose crystallinity at D.S. values above about 0.10. This indicates good penetration of the crystalline regions by the catalyst and acetylene in the vinylation reaction. Good crease recovery angles were obtained by heating a sample of vinylated cotton print cloth ( D.S. = 0.21 ) with acidic catalysts. Most samples had breaking strength measurements 55-85% of the control cloth and showed 20-50% elongation at break.
Preparation and Properties of Cotton Cellulose Diazonium Salts
Authors: Vigo Tyrone L. , Wade Ricardo H. , Welch Clark M.
Published: March 2008

Remarkably stable, yet reactive diazonium salts of cotton cellulose fabric have been prepared under ambient conditions by the action of dilute acid and nitrite solutions on cellulose ortho-aminobenzoate. These salts, which may be stored for four to six weeks, coupled readily with phenolic and aromatic amino compounds to produce deeply dyed fabrics.
Mildew Staining of Jute Materials
Authors: Basu S.N. , Ghose S.N. , Bose R.G.
Published: March 2008

Mildew stains in jute materials are usually produced by certain "superficial" species of fungi belonging to the genera Penicillium and Aspergillus, which cause little or no loss in strength. Metabolic acids, often produced simultaneously, may deepen the stain, and one fungus produced enough oxalic acid to cause acid staining. Apart from metabolic pigments, stains may be caused by colorless products combining with the non-cellulosic fractions of jute. This and the fact that superficial fungi grow more easily on jute than cotton render the former more susceptible to mildew staining. Other species which failed to produce stain in inoculation experiments but gave strongly staining filtrates may be implicated in the staining of jute. For some unknown reason, sacking proved less susceptible to staining than other fabric materials.
On Huberty's Coefficient of Irregularity of Yarns and its Estimators
Authors: Linhart H.
Published: March 2008

The coefticient K (Huberty) has been introduced to obtain a characterization of the irregularity of yarns, which depends only on the structure of the distribution of the fiber endpoints along the axis of the yarn and not on the length L and cross section Q of the fibers, and also not on the expected number of fiher endpoints per unit length. The coefficient K is a parameter which has to be estimated from a piece of yarn of length T. In this paper, bias and standard error of the customary ( K1) and an alternative ( K2) estimator are obtained. For ideal yarn, the mean and variance of K1 and K2 depend only on the sampling ratio s = L/T. The estimators have, therefore, properties which one would demand in analogy to the requirements which led to the introduction of k. Both, in particular K2, are very suitable for a test of the hypothesis that the yarn is ideal. It is conjectured that the estimators are approximately distributed as a constant times χn2 (chi-squared with n degrees of freedom), where the constant and n are functions of s only. Significant points of K are given. If the yarn is real, k has certain disadvantages: it depends not only on the structure of the distribution of endpoints (on the statistical anomaly), but also on L; it covers only "short-term irregularity." Bias and standard error of the estimator depend—besides on s—also on the anomaly and similar higher- order parameter functions.

If the logic leading to k is applied to some of the usually used parameter functions of the yarn (covariance function, spectral density, variance length curve) one obtains— for ideal yarn—standardized parameter functions which depend only on L, and this dependence is such that it can be eliminated by a suitable choice of scale on the abscissa. The paper is based on the traditional model which has been considerably extended by Giesekus [1, 2] whose terminology is also used here.
Design and Analysis of Inflated Membranes Reinforced With Extensible Cords Part I
Authors: Walston W.H. , Ames W.F.
Published: March 2008

Three configurations of reinforced membranes termed loxodromic, geodesic, and quadratic are considered. Prescriptions for the construction of each design are derived. In all cases the cords are assumed extensible and the case of cylindrical symmetric de formation is considered. The equilibrium shape and stress problem, for each design, is solved. Principal stresses, cord tensions, cord lengths, and membrane strengths are calculated and compared to a standard design. The advantages and disadvantages of each design are discussed.
Comparison of Properties of Anion-Exchange Cottons in Fabric Form
Authors: Soignet Donald M. , Berni Ralph J. , Benerito Ruth R.
Published: March 2008

The effects of the substitution of various types of amino groups in cotton on the crease recovery properties have been investigated. The potentiometric titration curves of the various aminized cottons have been used to differentiate the presence of quaternary ammonium groups (strong-base anion exchangers) from the presence of primary, sec ondary, or tertiary amino groups (weak-base anion exchangers). Weak-base anion exchange cottons have been quaternized by treatment of cotton containing tertiary amine groups with methyl iodide and with epichlorohydrin. In addition, strong-base exchangers have been prepared directly by a one-step process in which cotton pretreated with a base is reacted with a mixture of epichlorohydrin and a tertiary amine at a 3: 1 molar ratio. Weak-base aminized cottons containing primary amino groups have been reacted with epichlorohydrin in the presence of an aqueous base to form cottons of improved dry- and high wet-crease resistance. Only those quaternized cottons prepared from the reaction of pure epichlorohydrin on cottons containing tertiary amine groups possessed both high dry- and improved wet-crease recovery properties. Equations are given to illustrate types of reactions investigated and mechanisms of reactions.
Properties and Uses of Boron Nitride Fibers
Authors: Economy J. , Anderson R.V.
Published: March 2008

Boron nitride fibers have been prepared for the first time. The fibers possess corro sion resistance and thermal stability superior to any known fibers. The electrical insulating properties for boron nitride fibers are unique, particularly at elevated tempera tures. The mechanical properties approach the values normally ascribed to glass fibers ; however, because of their polycrystalline nature, the fibers do not appear to abrade as readily. Preliminary studies on processing boron nitride fibers into end use forms indicate that yarn and cloth can be fabricated. Properties of resin composites rein forced with boron nitride fibers are discussed. Difficulties in preparing ceramic and metal composites indicate the need for suitable coupling agents. Potential aerospace and industrial applications are described, based on properties and availability of various fabricated forms of the fiber.
The Effect of Fiber-Bundle Elongation of Medium Staple Cottons on Processing Performance and Y arn Properties
Authors: Waters William T. , Phillips Joe , Fiori Louis A.
Published: March 2008

Cottons differing in fiber-bundle elongation (5.8%, 7.3%, and 10.1%) were processed into 30/1 (20 tex) and 40/1 (15 tex) yarns at two levels of twist (3.75 T. M. and 4.50 T.M.) and of spinning draft (27.5 and 40.0). Fiber elongation had no effect on nep potential or uniformity of slivers. No relation was found between fiber-bundle elonga tion, 2.5% span length and fiber strength measured at " gage length, and only a general inverse trend was found with Micronaire reading. The reduction in fiber hooks when the cottons differing in elongation were processed from card sliver into second drawing sliver was significantly lower for the high- than for the low-elongation cotton. The higher-elongation cotton spun with fewer ends down than the lower-elongation cotton with this effect being more,pronounced at higher drafts and spindle speeds, lower twists, and as the yarn became finer. Generally, an increase in fiber elongation from 6% to 10% made possible a spindle speed increase of about 1000 rpm for the high twist 30/1 and 40/1 yarns at constant end breakage rate. In practical terms, it appears that the overall effect of fiber elongation (low to high) was approximately twice that of draft and about two-thirds that of twist and yarn number. It was possible to use higher spindle speeds without increasing end breakage with a tougher fiber and with a fiber of lower average tensile stiffness. Fiber average tensile stiffness and toughness were linearly and directly correlated with their yarn counterparts. Single-strand yarn strength and yarn elongation were linearly related to fiber elongation, with increased fiber elonga tion resulting in increased yarn strength and elongation.
Studies in Wool Yellowing
Authors: Milligan Brian
Published: March 2008

The relative extents to which untreated and shrink-resistant fabrics become yellow in boiling dyebaths have been assessed. Most shrink-resist treatments increase the susceptihility to yellowing, but additive processes, in which a polymer is deposited on the wool, actually decrease the amount of yellowing which occurs in the dyebath. Two commercial products, which are claimed to minimize yellowing during dyeing, have been examined.