bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
VESSEL WAKE INDUCED DYNAMICS IN A SHALLOW-BAY ENVIRONMENT
Authors: Figlus Jens , Tong Fangzhou , Fuller William
Published: September 2023

Ship wakes generated by large deep-draft vessels as well as those generated by smaller barges have the potential to cause significant compounding erosion and sedi-mentation issues, especially along high-traffic waterways. Yet, long-term in situ measurements of the actual hydro-dynamics initiated by ship wakes are rare. These data, however, are needed to optimize the design of erosion mitigation structures, to plan dredging efforts, to validate numerical modeling efforts, and to establish a basis from which the erosion and sedimentation potential of projected ship traffic can be estimated. This study is intended to help close some of these existing knowledge gaps through detailed analyses of measured velocity, water free-surface elevation change, and suspended sediment concentration caused by wind waves and ship wakes in the shallow-bay environment of Galveston Bay, Texas (GBT). In addition, numerical modeling efforts are being presented using the Boussinesq-type wave model FUNWAVE-TVD (Shi et al., 2012) to simulate individual vessel wake hydrodynamics and sediment-related dynamics and interactions with the local bathymetry and wetland edges based on the collected field data.
EROSION PROCESS IN THE CARIBBEAN SANDY BEACHES
Authors: Juanes José Luis , Jack Colin Peter , Izquierdo Miguel , Caballero Vladimir , Morales Pavel
Published: September 2023

Beach erosion is a widespread phenomenon on Caribbean beaches, with rates of coastline retreat between 2.2 and 0.5 m/year and higher reports in some areas. Different investigations indicate the combination of natural and anthropogenic causes and highlight the current influence of climate change related sea level rise. It is recorded as a generalizing trend the landward displacement of the beach profile, with sand transfer above the dunes and sand bars in a process that fits better the model proposed by Dean and Maurmeyer (1983) than the recognized model by Brunn (1962).
GREENSURGE: AN EFFICIENT ADDITIVE MODEL TO ASSESS STORM SURGE INDUCED BY TROPICAL CYCLONES
Authors: Pérez-Díaz Beatriz , Cagigal Laura , Tausía Javier , Vloten Sara O. Van , Castanedo Sonia , Cofiño Antonio S. , Méndez Fernando
Published: September 2023

Storm surge is one of the main components of coastal flooding induced by tropical cyclones (TCs), a big concern for Pacific Island Countries (PICs). It is well-known that storm surge levels can be accurately estimated using numerical models capable of considering both the inverse barometer effect and wind set-up. Therefore, dynamic simulations of a shallow water (SW) numerical model can be forced with the corresponding dynamic pressure and wind fields to accurately assess the storm surge induced by any TC at any spatial scale. However, this kind of dynamic simulations are a very computationally expensive task to be implemented in an operational inundation forecasting system, particularly for Small Island Developing States (SIDS) where computational resources are often limited. For this reason, in order to rapidly assess storm surge levels under the threat of occurrence of any TC, an additive model based on a library of pre-run cases has been developed.
COASTSNAP: A GLOBAL CITIZEN SCIENCE PROGRAM TO MONITOR CHANGING COASTLINES USING SMARTPHONES
Authors: Harley Mitchell , Drummond Chris , Kinsela Michael
Published: September 2023

CoastSnap is a low-cost community beach monitoring program that empowers local communities to collect quantitative measurements of coastline change using their smartphones. Underpinning CoastSnap is a stainless-steel smartphone cradle that is installed overlooking a beach in a location easily accessible to the public. Using the cradle for image positioning, passers-by simply take a photo of the coast and upload it to a centralized database, which in turn provides a crowd-sourced record of coastline change over time.
THE EFFECT OF WAVE OBLIQUITY ON DUNE EROSION: A FIELD EXPERIMENT
Authors: Wiechen Paul van , Rutten Jantien , Tissier Marion , Vries Sierd de , Mieras Ryan , Anarde Katherine , Aarninkhof Stefan
Published: September 2023

Storm conditions can lead to excessive dune erosion with potential floods as a consequence. Barrier islands and low-lying countries protected by dunes are especially vulnerable to dune erosion. To properly assess the risks these areas face, a clear understanding of the physical processes during dune erosion is required. One of such processes is the effect of wave obliquity on sediment transport in the surf zone. Classic dune erosion models assume that dune erosion volumes decrease under oblique wave attack, because the time-averaged cross-shore undertow decreases in magnitude and with that offshore directed sediment transport decreases (Steetzel, 1993). More recent process-based erosion models predict an increase in erosion quantities, because the generated longshore currents increase surf zone sediment concentrations, and with that offshore directed sediment transport increases (Den Heijer, 2013). The main objective of this study is to analyse the effect of wave obliquity on dune erosion through a field experiment, by quantifying the effect of the decreasing undertow but increasing alongshore current on sediment concentrations in the surf zone.
THE IMPACT OF EXTREME WATER LEVELS ON TORONTO ISLAND PARK AND INCREASING RESILIENCE AGAINST FUTURE FLOOD EVENTS
Authors: Crilly Jennifer , Anglin Dave , Salvatore Rebecca
Published: September 2023

Toronto Island Park is a chain of fifteen low-lying islands in Lake Ontario located just south of the Toronto shoreline in Ontario, Canada. The Park serves as a popular year-round urban attraction of significant economic importance, and showcases unique natural features, cultural heritage, and sensitive ecosystems. The Park is home to Billy Bishop Airport, Centreville Amusement Park, numerous small businesses, and over 250 residential homes. In recent years, the Toronto Islands have suffered significant physical and economic impacts due to flooding caused by extreme wet weather and record high water levels on Lake Ontario. In 2021, Baird was retained by the Toronto and Region Conservation Authority (TRCA) to develop long-term flood and erosion mitigation concept alternatives to replace temporary and emergency measures and to increase the functionality and resilience of the flood control infrastructure on the islands. This abstract outlines the various concept alternatives that were considered, the public engagement process and resulting preferred concepts for flood mitigation.
HYDRODYNAMIC AND WATER QUALITY MODELING OF GENOVA HARBOR
Authors: Daliri Mohammad , Loarca Andrea Margarita Lira , Cremonini Giulia , Leo Francesco De , Curtrone Laura , Reboa Anna , Capello Marco , Stocchino Alessandro , Besio Giovanni
Published: September 2023

A contaminant is a chemical or biological substance in a concentration that can potentially cause adverse effects on the physical, chemical, or biological properties of a water body. Contamination of surface water bodies poses serious risks to both aquatic ecosystems and human health. In this respect, hydrodynamic modeling is an essential method to study scenarios for hydroenvironmental problems, such as the impact of marine pollutants in coastal areas. In the framework of the Interreg Italy-France Maritime Cooperation Project Wastewater Management for the improvement of the harbor water quality, GEREMIA, this study numerically implements such a concept on Genova (Italy) harbor using a world-leading 3D modeling suite, Delft3D to investigate the hydrodynamics and transport process within these ports.
A GLOBAL CHARACTERISATION OF COASTAL REGIONS TO GUIDE NATURE-BASED SOLUTIONS TO SEA TURTLE NESTING BEACHES
Authors: Christiaanse Jakob , Antolínez José A. A. , Aarninkhof Stefan , Luijendijk Arjen , Duarte Carlos
Published: September 2023

Sea turtles are an important part of marine and coastal ecosystems around the world. Yet, six of seven sea turtle species are endangered (IUCN, 2021). While they spend most of their lives at sea, female turtles use sandy beaches as nesting habitat, where they dig their nests in the sand to incubate for up to two months. A major challenge to sea turtles is the degradation of their nesting beaches due to anthropogenic climate-change effects, such as accelerated sea level rise (SLR) and anomalous storm activity. While it is still uncertain how sandy beaches will respond to SLR, beaches backed by hard structures cannot migrate landward, leading to ‘coastal squeeze’—the erosion and consequential narrowing of beaches. Increased storm activity may lead to persistently high water levels at nesting beaches, resulting in the flooding or even erosion of incubating nests. Moreover, beach erosion during storms can bury nests under excessive sand and limit beach access through the formation of scarps. Nature-based solutions—for example in the form of turtle-friendly design of beaches along new land reclamations or by adding coastal vegetation or reefs to limit runup and reduce erosion on existing beaches—may offer promising opportunities to preserve and even expand global habitats for turtle nesting.
NON-STATIONARY PROBABILISTIC TSUNAMI HAZARD ASSESSMENTS INCORPORATING TIDES AND SEA LEVEL RISE
Authors: Sepulveda Ignacio , Liu Philip , Grigoriu Mircea , Haase Jennifer S. , Winckler Patricio
Published: September 2023

Tides and climate driven sea level rise (SLR) contribute significantly to water level changes in the short and long term, respectively. In terms of magnitude, they could be comparable to tsunamis of interest at certain coasts. New non-stationary probabilistic tsunami hazard assessment (nPTHA) methods that were developed to include the mean sea level changes due to a warming climate are now extended to incorporate the uncertainty of the tidal phase at the moment of tsunami occurrence. Here, a collocation-based model is used in the nPTHA method to render the calculation feasible and efficient.
NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF TSUNAMI IMPACT FROM THE 1/15/22 ERUPTION OF THE HUNGA TONGA - HUNGA HA’APAI VOLCANO
Authors: Grilli Stephan , Mohammadpour Maryam , Grilli Annette , Zhang Cheng , Tappin Dave , Novellino Alessandro , Watt Sebastien
Published: September 2023

Tsunamis from volcanic ‘explosive’ eruptions are rare, with the last catastrophic event being Krakatau in 1883 (Verbeek, 1885), during which, tsunamis were generated in the far-field by pressure shock-waves and in the nearfield of the volcano, in the Sunda Straits, by several potential geological mechanisms including pyroclastic flows, ash column, and/or caldera collapse. On 1/22/55, at about 4:15 UTC, a one in 1,000 year eruption of the Hunga Tonga-Hunga Ha’a-pai Volcano (HTHHV), that had started on12/20/21, reached its paroxysm with a series of large underwater explosions, releasing enormous energy (4-18 Mt of TNT), and ejecting a large ash plume 58 km into the stratosphere. We simulate both the near- and far-field tsunami generation from the eruption, but in this paper we focus on analyzing and validating the near-field impact against field data.
COMPARISON OF FIELD AND FORECAST METOCEAN DATA IN THE GERMAN BIGHT
Authors: Froehling Lukas , Grotebrune Thilo , Hildebrandt Arndt
Published: September 2023

Offshore wind energy can contribute significantly to achieve greenhouse gas neutrality in the near future. But the planning, construction and operation of offshore wind parks is associated with high costs. In particular, the operation and maintenance (OandM) costs account for a major fraction and in turn are also dependent on appropriate weather windows in which working vessels can operate. A precise knowledge of how wind, sea state and currents affect each other, as well as the most accurate possible prediction of the development, is essential to maximize these periods and reduce the resulting costs. For the German Bight, the high-resolution coastal wave model (CWAM) is often used for this purpose. The CWAM is based on WAM (Hasselmann et al. 1988) and was developed by the German Meteorological Service (DWD) and German Maritime and Hydrographic Agency (BSH) in cooperation with the Helmholtz-Zentrum Hereon. Compared to other WAM models it offers the advantages of higher resolution, as well as the consideration of current speeds and tide-dependent water depths. The BSH also operates multiple measuring stations in the German Bight, which enable real-time investigation of sea state parameters. The general objective of this study is to compare historical data sets from in situ measurements in the German Bight with numerical forecast data and to identify which factors influence the accuracy of the CWAM and why deviations occur.
INVESTIGATION INTO HOUSTON SHIP CHANNEL SHOALING AT THE BAYPORT FLARE IN GALVESTON BAY
Authors: Joubert Josh , Figlus Jens , Dellapenna Timothy
Published: September 2023

Sedimentation at the confluence of the Houston and Bayport Ship Channels (Bayport Flare) in the Upper Galveston Bay, along the Gulf Coast of Texas, USA, is a costly issue requiring frequent dredging. Hydrodynamic and sediment dynamic processes in the Upper Galveston Bay, particularly around the Bayport Flare, are being explored using measurements from vessel mounted and fixed Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers (ADCP), Optical Backscatter Sensors (OBS), Tilt Current Meters (TCM), as well as densely spaced sediment surface grab samples, core samples, and salinity profiles. These field measurements are used to assess the causes of the extremely high sedimentation rates (approximately 30 cm per year based on dredging records between 2013 and 2017) seen in the Bayport Flare. The effect of salinity on the flocculation and sedimentation of particles near the ship channels is also being explored through laboratory experimentation.
GRAY LEADS TO GREEN IN THE BLUE: BUILDING INFRASTRUCTURE TO ENHANCE COASTAL HABITAT
Authors: Agardy Tundi , MacIntosh Kevin
Published: September 2023

Structures that are used to build and protect coastal habitats and properties are often referred to as gray infrastructure, distinct from the green infrastructure provided by nature. This green infrastructure includes natural habitats such as mangroves, coral reefs, shellfish reefs, saltmarshes, and seagrasses - all of which have been demonstrated to maintain shorelines, balance hydrology, buffer land from storms, improve water quality, and provide recreational and aesthetical values. Concerns arise when built infrastructure damages such beneficial habitats, as can happen if designs are inadequate or poorly planned. The result is that much of the current narrative around gray/green infrastructure has created a false and dangerous dichotomy: green infrastructure is labelled a ‘nature-based solution’, while gray infrastructure is portrayed or perceived by certain stakeholders as the opposite (sometimes implying that engineered solutions are not long-term solutions at all, but rather short-term solutions that can pose long-term problems). Coastal structures can stabilize shorelines, prevent erosion, and create space for colonization by mangroves, seagrasses, corals, and other foundational marine species. The structures themselves can contribute to improving water quality, creating the enabling conditions for ecosystem recovery.
IMPACT OF CLIMATE CHANGE-INDUCED SEA ICE RETREAT ON ARCTIC STORM SURGES
Authors: Kim Joseph , Nistor Ioan , Murphy Enda , Ferguson Sean , Provan Mitchel
Published: September 2023

Canada’s Arctic coastline is significantly affected by climate change factors such as relative sea-level rise, thawing permafrost, sea ice retreat, accelerating coastal erosion and increasingly extreme wave climate (Environment Canada, 2019). These factors exacerbate the impacts of storm surges and associated coastal flooding of Arctic communities. While there have been studies studying the impact of sea ice retreat on wave climate (Casas‐Prat and Wang, 2020; Waseda et al., 2021), there have not been any studies on its effect on storm surge development. This is the first study quantifying the projected increase in storm surge hazard along the coast of the Beaufort Sea due to climate change-induced sea ice retreat and shortening of ice season duration through numerical modelling.
DEEP LEARNING TO PREDICT TSUNAMI HEIGHT AT THE SHORELINE USING OCEAN BOTTOM PRESSURE DATA
Authors: Renteria Willington , Lynett Patrick
Published: September 2023

Real-time tsunami prediction is a required component of a tsunami warning system. Several advances have been made to improve prediction in the tsunami warning process, including precomputed databases and the assimilation of deep-ocean observations (DART buoys) into numerical modeling (Bernard and Titov, 2015). These improvements aim to accurately and quickly predict the time and height of the tsunami wave impact. Here, two deep learning models (DLM) are developed to predict the maximum tsunami height at a local/long shoreline from four time series observations of ocean bottom pressure data.
SHORELINE VARIATION OF AN ISLAND IN RESPONSE TO CHANGE IN WAVE DIRECTION
Authors: Uda Takaaki , Noshi Yasuhito , Yokota Takuya , Sekine  Masato
Published: September 2023

We selected Komaka Island located 3 km offshore of Chinen Peninsula in Okinawa and surrounded by coral reef as a study site, and we conducted field observation of the shoreline changes on this coral cay on 13 July 2019, and the shoreline changes were investigated using satellite images. The shape of the sandbar behind the island was classified into one of three types (circular, slender oval, and elongated oval). Then, the changes in the sandbar were numerically simulated using the modified BG model (a model for predicting 3-D beach changes based on Bagnold’s concept). In this model, waves were assumed to be incident from every direction so as to focus at the center of the circular island. Under this condition, the distribution of the wave diffraction coefficient Kd was assumed, taking the wave-sheltering effect of the cay into account, and longshore sand transport was assumed to be induced owing to the change in Kd in the direction normal to the wave direction. The results of numerical simulation explained well the deformation of the sandbar on Komaka Island.
FREE AND BOUND WAVES IN THE COASTAL ZONE: FIELD, LABORATORY AND NUMERICAL EXPERIMENTS
Authors: Kuznetsov Sergey , Saprykina Yana , Shtremel Margarita
Published: September 2023

Traditionally we look on storm waves as on periodic in space and time motion. Main feature of wave transformation in the coastal zone over inclined bottom is the higher harmonic generation that occurs so fast (during the one wavelength) that we can’t consider the wave motion as periodic in space. Spatial measurements of the wave profile are difficult in the coastal zone and are replaced by point chronograms of free surface elevations and then interpreted using traditional wave theories to calculate the practically important the wave energy and speed of wave propagation. These interpretations very often lead to paradoxical results, such as unexpected spatial fluctuations of the wave energy and propagation velocities, which are usually interpreted as shortcomings in the calibration of gauges, but our experience told that is the result of simultaneous existing of free and bound waves. Many researchers consider the free and bound second and higher harmonics of waves on the intermediate water as “parasitic” or “spurious” and try to avoid it in laboratory and in numerical experiments, but second harmonic are practically important. We will try to figure out what is the matter on the basis of field, laboratory and numerical experiments consider the waves in both time and space domains.
A VALIDATION OF WAVE LOADS ON CREST WALLS ON TOP OF COMPOSITE BREAKWATERS USING OPENFOAM
Authors: Mata Marisol Irías , Boersen Stef , Gent Marcel R.A. van , Antonini Alessandro , Jensen Bjarne , Cock van der Lem
Published: September 2023

The design of crest walls is often based on empirical formulations, physical model tests, numerical models and a fair amount of expert judgement. The present work validates the prediction of wave induced forces on the front face of crest walls on top of composite breakwaters in the numerical model OpenFOAM. The results show that OpenFOAM is able to capture the shape and order of magnitude of the force events caused by non-breaking and heavily breaking waves. In addition, a calibrated model predicts the highest wave induces forces caused by breaking waves with errors lower than 20percent.
ESTIMATING SEDIMENT GENERATION FROM ROCK CONSTRUCTION WORKS
Authors: Adamantidis Christopher , Thomas Colin , Berthot Alexis , Cussioli Mariana , Bayley Martin , Carlyle Peter
Published: September 2023

The dispersal of fine sediments into receiving waters from dredging and disposal associated with major port developments, and the modelling of these, is often a major focus of the environmental approval process for the construction of these works. An aspect that is often overlooked in the environmental assessment of these works is the generation of sediment sourced directly from the construction materials used for breakwater and revetment construction. While fine sediment generation from dredging and offshore sediment disposal is often well documented, there is little guidance or research that has been undertaken in quantifying the direct generation of sediment from the placement of rock armour. This paper demonstrates a method applied to a construction project at Eastland Port NZ to quantify the generation and dispersal of construction-generated fine sediments.
PHYSICAL EVALUATION OF THE HYDRODYNAMIC STABILITY OF AN ECO-ENGINEERED ARMOURING UNIT
Authors: Martínez Jorge Gutiérrez , Bezner Maor , Molenkamp Auke , Bos Jeroen v.d. , Hofland Bas , Leblanc Philippe , Rella Andrew , Rosenberg Yaeli , Sella Ido
Published: September 2023

ECOncrete®‘s Coastalock is an ecologically designed armour unit, providing an alternative and/or a complement to traditional armour layers with ecologically enhanced armouring that provides shoreline stabilization, while also creating well-defined local ecosystems that mimic natural rock pools. The 2D physical model tests performed at TU Delft focused on the stability, reflection and overtopping of a slope with regularly placed single layer Coastalock armour. The 2V:3H slope had an impermeable core, no wave breaking on the foreshore and no rock toe. The stability was seen to double, with stability number Ns (Ns= Hs/ΔDn50) increasing from roughly 2 to 4 and above, by increasing the porosity between the blocks from spacing the units from 0percent to 25percent. So less concrete use led to more stability. The mean overtopping discharge could be characterized by a roughness factor of gamma_f = 0.610 (for 25percent spacing). A key goal of the Coastalock development is to demonstrate that with the use of innovative eco-engineered armour unit design it is now possible to add ecological considerations into the design process to promote biodiversity and provide ecosystem services, achieving both structural and ecological goals.
INVESTIGATING DREDGE PLACEMENT OPTIMISATION TO BENEFIT SURF AMENITY
Authors: Naderi Nick , Atkinson Alexander , Nielsen Kane , Boswood Paul
Published: September 2023

Dredge material removed from the Tweed River Entrance is deposited offshore from Gold Coast beaches to assist in mitigating erosion. Research was undertaken by the Queensland Government Hydraulics Laboratory (QGHL), in collaboration with Tweed Sand Bypassing (TSB), to investigate the potential of targeting dredge depositions to also improve surf amenity. A time-domain numerical wave model (SWASH) was developed as a design tool and calibrated using physical model data. Overall, SWASH reproduced wave heights over and in the lee of the mound with reasonable accuracy. However, tuning of the breaking parameters (α and β) is necessary to accurately simulate the onset and persistence of the breaking process. The results of both physical and numerical modelling highlight the importance of sand mound shape in disrupting the wave field, resulting in breakpoint variability in the mound's lee, which could potentially create more favorable surfing conditions.
FUNWAVE MODELLING OF BEACH INUNDATION IN RESPONSE TO MASS SAND NOURISHMENT: A STUDY USING SOME PROFILES FROM STOCKTON BEACH NSW
Authors: Taggart Ian
Published: September 2023

Mass sand nourishment is recognized as a means of restoring beach amenity and one that possibly offers long-term protection from further shoreline loss and inundation of adjacent urban areas. While large scale beach nourishment has been used elsewhere, examples in NSW are extremely limited. Model inundation results, based on an actual beach profile, suggest that nourishment alone provides little reduction to inundation rates and therefore inundation risks.
ASSESSMENT OF THE FAILURE PROBABILITY OF UPGRADED RUBBLE-MOUND BREAKWATERS
Authors: Stagnitti Martina , Lara Javier L. , Musumeci Rosaria E. , Foti Enrico
Published: September 2023

Nowadays, the existence of a huge number of aging harbor defense structures and climate change-induced forcing variability highlight the need for a methodology able to deal with uncertainties which arise during the design of new and above all upgraded structures. In the present work, a probabilistic design methodology based on the Monte Carlo simulation technique for the assessment of the failure probability due to independent failure modes and on the factor of change method for the inclusion of the effects of climate change is described, together with its application to the emblematic case study of the Catania harbor breakwater (Italy). The performances of the rubble-mound breakwater under present and future climate scenarios are assessed considering the existing structure and different upgrading options, which include both the raising of the wave wall and the addition of extra armor blocks. Three novel indexes describing the acceptability level of the structure performances as well as the rate of growth and the coefficient of variation of the failure probability along lifetime are employed to quantitatively asses the performances of the existing and upgraded breakwater under present and future climate, considering the ultimate limit state due to the collapse of the outer armor layer and the serviceability limit state due to excessive mean wave overtopping discharge. The obtained results demonstrate that such indexes may give useful indication to designers and decision makers who deal with the upgrade of existing harbor defense structures under the effects of climate change.
COAST4US: APPLICATION OF THE COAST TOOL TO THE PORTUGUESE WEST COASTLINE
Authors: Ferreira C.C. , Narra P. , Mendiguren B. , Cardoso A. , Coelho C. , Lima M. , Rocha B.
Published: September 2023

Over the years, people have been settling in coastal areas, as they provide opportunities, both economically and in terms of well-being and leisure. However, the coastline is also exposed to serious problems of coastal erosion, particularly on urban fronts, increasing the consequences derived from adjacent phenomena such as overtopping and flooding. It is therefore essential to deepen the study of strategies for the prediction, prevention and mitigation of this phenomenon. In this sense, COAST (Coast Optimization Assessment Tool), a tool for integrated cost-benefit analysis of coastal interventions to mitigate erosion problems, was developed. The COAST4US project - Application of the COAST tool to the Portuguese coast - aims to contribute to the feasibility of applying this tool in real situations, contributing to an efficient mitigation of coastal erosion, and providing decision makers with more and better information. The project proposes to apply COAST to three stretches of coastline at high risk of coastal erosion on the Portuguese west coast: Aveiro, Figueira da Foz, and Costa de Caparica. The project is divided in several tasks, including scenario modeling, cost prediction and benefit assessment, being this work focused on benefit assessment by estimating the value of each beach, and analyzing the effectiveness of three nourishment scenarios.
STUDY OF CROSS-SHORE PROFILES AT SOUTH COASTS OF THE CASPIAN SEA UNDER RAPID CHANGES IN WATER LEVEL
Authors: Enayati Hesamodin , Soltanpour Mohsen , Shibayama Tomoya , Nistor Ioan
Published: September 2023

Coastal zone management needs the prediction of the changes in shoreline and coastal profiles, where the fluctuation of sea water level plays an essential role. Climate change and human activities have accelerated the fluctuation/falling of water levels in lakes and enclosed water basins. Using satellite images and cross-shore beach profiles at twelve monitoring stations along the southern coasts of the Caspian Sea, the effect of the rapid fall of water level on the nearshore morphology is studied in this research. Radiometric and atmospheric corrections are made on satellite images, and the NDWI index is used to increase the accuracy of the shoreline extraction. Comparing the accuracy of different methods, it is concluded that the Hands (1984) formula relatively better predicts the shoreline advancement rate due to lowering water level.
ORBITAL VELOCITIES DUE TO BICHROMATIC-BIDIRECTIONAL WAVES
Authors: Silva Mario G. Souza e , Guimarães Ricardo , Kerpen Nils , Rosman Paulo Cesar , Neves Claudio F. , Schlurmann Torsten
Published: September 2023

The paper describes the orbital velocity pattern generated by Bichromatic-Bidirectional waves (Bi-Bi waves), and investigate how the forced (long period) wave decays along the depth. Experiments conducted at a wave basin proved that the use of ADVs provided much better results than free surface elevations, due to the higher sensitivity of the instrument, as compared of the free surface measurements.
PERSPECTIVE FOR ENERGY EXPLOITATION ALONG THE BRAZILIAN COAST
Authors: Guimarães Ricardo Cardoso , Marques Wiliam Correa , Neves Claudio Freitas
Published: September 2023

The constant need to supply the growing global energy demand, leads to an increase in the generation of greenhouse gases. To circumvent this problem, more and more alternative means of energy generation have been used to compose the energy grid. One of the alternatives, which in recent decades has received great attention from researchers, is the conversion of wave energy into electrical energy. In Brazil, studies have also gained momentum, and the possibility of implementing wave energy converters on the Brazilian coast is increasingly recognized. With this in mind, the present work aims to determine the regions on the Brazilian coast that are most capable of being explored through wave energy. For this, a simulation of 37 years of the Brazilian sea state, is used in conjunction with a multicriterial methodology, where the logistical and energetic conditions of the Brazilian coast are quantified. Subsequently, power matrices of 8 wave converters are used to quantify the theoretical potential generated in the improved locations. The results showed that, in energy terms, the South and Southeast regions of Brazil have the greatest potential. This factor also proved to be the cause of the presence of lower logistical indexes in these regions, when comparing them with the North and Northeast regions of Brazil. After parameterization of the indices, three zones of interest were observed on the Brazilian coast: Cabo Frio, Imbituba and São José do Norte. When applying the conversion matrices in these locations, average daily generation power between 1.5 and 230kW were observed, the largest being located in the Cabo Frio region, using the BHBA model of converter. Variability in energy production was also discussed, and it should be a primary factor in the choice of the convert model, as well as in its design. Finally, all results were consistent with previous work, however, the path to implementing a wave energy conversion site in Brazil is still long, and should be focused on optimizing devices for Brazilian waters.
40 YEARS OF FLEXIBLE SCOUR APRONS: ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC COAST CASE HISTORIES
Authors: Brown Chris
Published: September 2023

Flexible scour apron mats are sometimes used where seawalls are ‘floating’ in the beach, where firm rock foundations are out of economic reach. This paper reviews the use of flexible scour aprons for the toe protection of seawalls and revetments, based on some 20 to 40 years exposure at sites in NSW, Australia and in Cubut, Argentina. It contains examples of simple and compound revetments, and discusses the problems of design variations driven by cost cutting, and the risks of post-design and post- construction policy changes that critically affect the original design concepts, especially where reliance had been placed on concurrent beach nourishment, and apron elevation had been raised to take the benefit of increased protection offered by the beach nourishment.
UNDERSTANDING THE BENEFITS AND LIMITATIONS OF COASTAL NBS
Authors: Pontee Nigel I
Published: September 2023

As Coastal NBS are implemented more widely it is important to be clear in our definition of NBS and understand the benefits and limitations of the various approaches. Coastal NBS involve using natural features to offer, or improve, coastal protection while producing additional economic, environmental and social benefits. There are, however, a broad range of solutions spanning the creation of large expanses of habitats, hybrids of habitats and harder engineered structures and ecological enhancements of existing infrastructure. Costs and performance therefore vary widely and not all NBS are low cost or self-maintaining. In many instances the capacity for sedimentary habitats to self-maintain will depend on sediment availability and this emphasizes the need to consider whole life costs when comparing NBS with more traditional harder defences. The incorporation of habitat components can however bring multiple benefits for both nature and people. Implemented correctly, Coastal NBS therefore have the potential to be ‘no regret’ solutions in many locations.
SANDSNAP – AMASSING A BEACH GRAIN SIZE DATABASE IN THE UNITED STATES
Authors: McFall Brian C. , Young David L. , Whitmeyer Shelley J. , University James Madison , Buscombe Daniel , Science Marda , Stever Shannon
Published: September 2023

U.S. beaches are data rich environments with readily accessible topographic and hydrodynamic data, but a national database of beach grain size information does not exist. Unfortunately, grain size is often poorly parameterized, particularly for geographically large studies, because it is unfeasible to collect beach grain size information on a large, multi-state or national scale with traditional methods. As a result, sediment size often has the largest uncertainty of the input parameters for sediment transport modeling (Soulsby, 1997). “SandSnap” is a research initiative to amass the first nationwide beach sand grain size database with the help of citizen scientists using their smart phones.
EFFECTS OF WAVE SKEWNESS AND ASYMMETRY ON THE EVOLUTION OF FIRE ISLAND, NEW YORK
Authors: Parlak Muhammed Said , Ayhan Bilal Umut , Warner John C. , Kalra Tarandeep S. , Safak Ilgar
Published: September 2023

Bedload transport of sediment by waves and currents is one of the key physical processes that affect the evolution of coasts, nearshore areas, and the engineering practices there. Wave skewness and asymmetry, both of which increase as waves shoal, result in a net bedload sediment flux over a wave cycle. The impacts of this mechanism on large-scale coastal and shoreline change are investigated in this study, using field observations and Coupled Ocean Atmosphere Wave Sediment Transport (COAWST), a hydrodynamic process-based numerical modeling system (Warner et al., 2010). The study site is Fire Island, New York, located at the Atlantic Coast of the USA, with a focus on the persistent shoreline shape, at the western half of this 50-km-long barrier island, that has been hypothesized to be linked to the sand deposits at the shoreface.
ANALYSIS OF 3D COASTAL TERRAIN BY UAV IMAGE AND BUNDLE ADJUSTMENT
Authors: Shin Bumshick
Published: September 2023

Recently, studies on the construction of 3D terrain modeling and location accuracy evaluation using UAV have been conducted, but the application to coastal areas lacking image matching points has not been made in detail yet. In coastal topography survey using UAV, ortho-images and DSM (Digital Surface Model) data were constructed through imaging and ground control point (GCP) surveying on the ground. In the case of ortho-images, VRS survey was used to analyze horizontal and vertical errors between GCP points, to evaluate accuracy, and to construct terrain data from the ortho-image and DSM data.
CHALLENGES IN DESIGNING A WIND FARM ON AN ERODING BEACH ALONG THE DUTCH COAST
Authors: Beer Anne de , Sokolewicz Marius , Peters Dirk Jan , IJntema Jelmer , Luijendijk Arjen , Leeuwen Bas van , Hamoen Arjan
Published: September 2023

The Dutch energy company Eneco received the concession to construct a 116 MW windfarm on the Maasvlakte-2, a recent large seaward port extension of the Port of Rotterdam. The land reclamation is protected partly by a hard sea defence and partly by a soft sea defence, consisting of a sandy beach and adjacent dunes. Twelve wind turbines with a monopile foundation will be constructed on the beach, close to or in the waterline. The beach is erosive and is maintained by regular beach and foreshore nourishments. Designing and constructing wind turbines in this dynamic environment forms an unprecedented challenge.
THE ROBIN HOOD APPROACH TO COASTAL MANAGEMENT - SAND HAVESTING THROUGH THE EYES OF BEACH SCRAPOLOGISTS
Authors: Daley Marc , Gordon Angus , Fitzgibbon Ben
Published: September 2023

Beach scraping or as originally and perhaps more appropriately described “Nature Assisted” Beach Enhancement (NABE), remains a somewhat poorly understood concept in Australia (Gordon 2015) and is often overlooked as a legitimate approach for coastal management. NABE is best suited to manage a situation where there is a need to rapidly restore a beach following an erosion event, or where a beach is suffering short to medium term recession, and there is a natural bypassing sand resource in the littoral zone that can be effectively “harvested” to establish or increase a dune sand buffer to protect built assets. The paper discusses both aspects but will focus on the latter, to provide a review of the overall viability of NABE in the context of sand harvesting operations at two NSW locations, where NABE operations have been integral in ensuring both the short and medium-term coastal security.
BEACH BUILDINGS ON POLES AND THEIR IMPLICATIONS FOR DUNEWARD SEDIMENT TRANSPORT: A NUMERICAL STUDY
Authors: Pourteimouri Paran , Campmans Geert , Wijnberg Kathelijne , Hulscher Suzanne
Published: September 2023

Sandy beaches are attractive worldwide. An increasing number of beach users induces a higher demand for buildings at the beach-dune interface. These buildings alter the local flow speed and direction which, in turn, changes the aeolian sand transport around buildings, and the sediment supply to the dunes. This study aims to understand how and to what extent beach buildings on poles affect duneward sediment transport.
MODELLING SHORELINE EVOLUTION AT COLLAROY-NARRABEEN, DUE TO COMBINED CROSS-SHORE AND LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT PROCESSES
Authors: Hunt Emily , Davidson Mark , Steele Edward , Scott Timothy , Russell Paul
Published: September 2023

Changing wave climates and sea levels are leading to enhanced pressures on coastal communities and infrastructure. Coastal managers require better predictive tools in order to predict current and future coastal evolution and mitigate the potential impacts of coastal erosion and flooding. This contribution utilises a longshore extension and simplification of the Forecasting Coastal Evolution (ForCE; Davidson, 2021) profile model to examine the shoreline evolution of the Collaroy-Narrabeen embayment. The resulting one-line model combines cross-shore and longshore sediment transport processes, and unlike previous one-line models of this kind, both (longshore/cross-shore) terms are derived from the same theoretical arguments. Both model components are founded on equilibrium principles, whereby sediment transport is directly related to the disequilibrium in longshore and cross-shore components of wave energy dissipation.
NEW PROCESS BASED EQUATION FOR A STATIC EQUILIBRIUM BEACH PLANFORM
Authors: Gainza June , Gonzalez Mauricio , Medina Raúl
Published: September 2023

Equilibrium planform formulations of beaches are engineering tools for providing solutions for beach erosion problems. They aim at defining the final orientation of the beach on a scale of years and thus they are used for evaluating the shoreline response due to human interference (ports, breakwaters, protection works…etc). These formulations create engineering solution to numerous coastal stability problems. The Parabolic Bay Shape Equation (PBSE) proposed by Hsu and Evans (1989) is the most used equation and allow to solve problems. However, these shape equations are valid under certain simplifications. Therefore, they are unable to determine the beach planform when the bathymetry is complex, with rocky areas or/and islands. The aim of this study is to present a new equilibrium beach planform equation (Gainza et al. 2018) that overcomes the problem previously mentioned. What is more, an extension of the model is presented in order to modeled the shape of a shoreline on a given day.
INVESTIGATION INTO THE MECHANISMS OF CREST GROWTH ON GRAVEL BERMS
Authors: Foss Oliver , Blenkinsopp Christopher , Bayle Paul
Published: September 2023

The continual sea-level rise predicted over the next century poses a significant threat to coastal regions. Preserving the coastline will require innovative coastal protection techniques and structures. A potential defence is to introduce artificial gravel beaches (Loman et al., 2010), or dynamic revetments (Bayle et al., 2020), a gravel berm placed at the high tide berm(Bayle et al., 2020). A key feature of these types of defences is their ability to maintain the berm elevation relative to the water level. As the water level rises, the structure is overtopped by waves which drives sediment up and over the berm crest peak. This leads to elevation gain for the berm and limits the landward excursion of waves. Berm crest behaviour has only been recorded at frequencies that do not allow wave-by-wave analysis of the process and the resultant ‘snapshot’ profiles may not be representative of the true variability of gravel berms. Through application of continuous 2-D Lidar monitoring on several active gravel berms this paper addresses this gap. It presents new findings related to sediment transport at the berm crest, the morphodynamic behavior under wave attack and a conceptual model for berm state.
EFFECT OF GRAIN SHAPE ON BEDLOAD TRANSPORT OF CORAL GRAVELS UNDER TURBULENT FLOW
Authors: Mao Lilei , Li Jiabo , Tajima Yoshimitsu , Shimozono Takenori
Published: September 2023

Coral islands with low-lying accumulations of wave-deposited carbonate bioclasts are suffering significant erosion and flooding threats due to sea level rise and wave climate changes. Properties of coral gravels are distinct from natural quartz sands in its larger skeletal porosity and more irregular shape (de Kruijf et al., 2021). This study aims to investigate how the particle shape affects bedload transport process of coral gravels under turbulent flow by means of laboratory experiments, which can provide insights for better predictive skills of morphology change of coral islands.
INCLUSION OF CONTACT FRICTION FOR PARTICLE-BASED SIMULATION OF SEDIMENT TRANSPORT OVER MOBILE BED
Authors: Cao Zhe , Li Ming
Published: September 2023

The particle based approach, including the particle resolving method, such as CFD-DEM, e.g. Drake and Calantoni (2001), Schmeeckle (2014), and the Particle-In-Cell (PIC) method, e.g. Patankar and Joseph (2001); Finn, M. Li, and Apte (2016); Y. Li et al. (2014), has become important tool for simulation of sediment transport in recent years. The latter is advantageous in the required computing resources when large amount of particles are involved and hence is more suitable for simulation of sediment transport over mobile bed. However, unlike that in CFD-DEM, special treatment is needed in the PIC method in order to prevent overlap and over-packing of sediment particles in a computational cell. Most models so far ignore the contact friction force between particles that hinders relative movement but often is essential to maintain particles in static position, especially in the seabed where the contact forces between particles are the largest. An new friction force is proposed to simulate the particle interactions, similar to the collision used in previous studies, so that the kinetic energy driving particles motion can be effectively dissipated and over-packing can be minimised under either static or dynamic stages of the particle motion.
BENEFICIAL USE OF DREDGED MATERIAL AND FATE OF PLACED SAND USING A HYBRID COSMOS-XBEACH SEDIMENT BUDGET MODEL
Authors: Quan Rebecca , Dibajnia Mohammad , Wise Larry , Das Himangshu S.
Published: September 2023

The Corpus Christi Ship Channel in Texas connects the Port of Corpus Christi to the Gulf of Mexico. The Port is seeking to deepen the channel to allow fully loaded very large crude carriers to access proposed terminals within the port complex. Dredge material from the channel deepening is to be used as beach nourishment and to create offshore berms along Mustang Island and San Jose Island. The fate of the beach nourishment and offshore berms was assessed using the Hybrid C-X (COSMOSXBeach) Sediment Budget Model. Longshore and cross-shore transport processes were incorporated in the model using COSMOS (longshore) and XBeach (cross-shore) models. Multi-year simulation of the fate of placed material using process-based twodimensional horizontal (2DH) models requires long CPU times which are often impractical. A hybrid sediment budget model using process-based crossshore profile models was thus developed.
MULTI-PLATFORM MONITORING OF COASTAL EROSION AT A POCKET BEACH
Authors: Angnuureng Donatus Bapentire , Brempong Emmanuel Kwadwo , Rafael Almar
Published: September 2023

As in many other regions of the world, coastal recession in West and Central Africa is the result of natural factors, anthropogenic factors, or both (Anthony et al., 2016; Luijendijk et al., 2018), and when it occurs, it may continue unless it is firmly addressed. Erosion along Ghana's coastline is endemic as in most of the Gulf of Guinea countries in West Africa. The current challenge is how to document and understand the dimensions of erosion despite limited human and logistical capacity. Regular monitoring of coastal areas is a prerequisite to evade any imminent erosive disaster within the coastal cities (Angnuureng et al., 2022). Data-driven decisions have remained more uncertain because most monitoring platforms are unable to capture events of a certain frequency. The main goal of this work is to test the feasibility of using multiple sources of remote sensing platforms to assess the dynamics of a pocket beach at Elmina in Ghana, as a showcase for local governance.