bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Changes in Disposable Diaper Properties Caused by Wetting
Authors: Yokura Hiroko , Niwa Masako
Published: March 2008

Changes caused by wetting in the compression, surface, and heat transfer properties of forty-nine commercial disposable diapers are investigated to clarify their performance in use. In the tests, a segment cut from the center of a diaper is moistened with 0.9% NaCl solution, and the hand of the wet diaper is assessed and compared with dry ones by mothers and female students. After wetting, the diaper samples become harder due to increased compression linearity, and the recovery decreases due to decreased compres sional resilience (RC). Increases in the coefficient of friction ( MIU), surface roughness ( SMD), thermal conductance ( K'), and maximum heat flux result in a lack of smoothness and reduced warmth. The diapers evaluated as having good hand in both dry and wet conditions show small mean deviations of MIU, SMD, and K', and large RC in the dry test. These diapers also show small rewet values (large water retention). The range of the values is clarified for the diaper properties that are estimated to provide good hand.
Mechanical Strength of Durable Press Finished Cotton Fabric
Authors: Yang Charles Q. , Weishu Wei  , Lickfield Gary C.
Published: March 2008

In our previous research, we investigated the strength loss of durable press cotton fabric caused by acid-catalyzed depolymenzation. In this paper, we study the relationship between the tensile strength loss of crosslinked cotton fabric and the molecular structures of the crosslinking agents. We use 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) and all- cis-1,2,3,4- petanetetracarboxylic acid (CPTA), linear and cyclic terrafunctional carboxylic acids, respec tively, to treat cotton at different concentrations and different temperatures. We find that BTCA is more effective and imparts higher levels of wrinkle resistance than CPTA, but the relationship between tensile strength loss and wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) for the treated fabric is independent of the differences in their molecular structures and reactivity. We also compare the tensile strength loss of cotton fabric treated with DMDHEU and 1,3-dimethyl-4,5-dihydroxyl ethyleneurea (DHDMI) and observe a similar phenomenon.
Developing a New Drafting System for Ring Spinning Machines
Authors: Chen Ke-Zhang , Huang Cun-Zhu , Chen Shang-Xian , Ning Pan
Published: March 2008

In order to raise yam quality, a new drafting system concept for ring spinning machines is developed in this study, along with an analysis of its controlling effects. To optimize the new drafting system, its structural parameters are studied and two empirical equations for yarn unevenness and nep count model its design. The equation of yam unevenness is used to find the optimum structural parameters of the new drafting system. Practical spinning tests with the optimized system prove that it can reduce unevenness, thin places, thick places, and neps in spun yarns, and that the equation for yarn unevenness can be used to satisfactorily estimate the unevenness of spun yams.
Effect of Liquid Ammonia, Sodium Hydroxide/Liquid Ammonia, and Subsequent Cellulase Treatments on Mechanical Properties of Cotton Fabric
Authors: Wakida Tomiji , Moriya Takae , Lee Muncheul , Yoshioka Hiromu , Yanai Yuichi
Published: March 2008

Liquid ammonia and cellulase treatments are known to be effective in improving the soft hand of cotton fabrics. In this study, cotton fabric is treated with liquid ammonia, sodium hydroxide/liquid ammonia, and subsequently with cellulase. Shearing and bending hysteresis curves are measured with a KES instrument. Shearing G, bending modulus B, and hysteresis widths 2HG and 2HB are calculated on the basis of the curves. G, B, 2HG, and 2HB decrease with the NH3 treatment, especially with NaOH/NH3. Although inde pendent cellulase treatment decreases the parameters and produces a soft handle, the combination with NH3 , NaOH/NH3 and with susequent cellulase is much more effective at improving hand.
Predicting the Strength Variation of Wool from Its Diameter Variation
Authors: Xungai Wang
Published: March 2008

In this study, we have derived and evaluated a simple statistical relationship between the coefficient of variation ( CV) of fiber breaking load and that of minimum fiber diameter. This relationship indicates the CV of fiber breaking load is about twice the CV of fiber minimum diameter. We have made single fiber measurements on a recently developed single fiber analyzer (SIFAN). We test wool fibers for both diameter along the fiber length and fiber breaking load, and use the coefficient of variation of minimum fiber diameters ( CVDmin) to predict the CV of single fiber breaking load ( CVF). The results support the statistically derived relationship between the CV of fiber breaking load and that of minimum fiber diameter. In addition, we modify an equation we derived in a previous study to better relate the fiber diameter variation to fiber strength variation for small fiber samples.
Frictional Behavior of Textile Fabrics
Authors: Virto Luis , Naik Arun
Published: March 2008

In this paper, the dynamic response for sliding friction is considered through dynamic models. A new interpretation of the non-uniform sliding phenomenon response is given, based on new topographic details of the fabric surface in front of the leading edge of the sled in movement.
Structure and Properties of Cotton Sirospun® Yarn
Authors: Sun M.N. , Cheng K.P.S.
Published: March 2008

Cotton Sirospun® yarn has a circular cross-sectional shape, with the two strands segregated and consolidated into an adjacent array. When it is untwisted, the strand twists in an alternate direction. When compared to single yam with the same linear density and twist multiplier, cotton Sirospun yam is superior in tenacity, evenness, hairiness, and abrasion resistance. Although cotton Sirospun yam is less hairy and more extensible than two-plied yarn, it is inferior to two-plied yam in evenness and imperfections.
Experimental Study of Capillary Flow in Yarns
Authors: Perwuelz Anne , Mondon Pascal , Caze Claude
Published: March 2008

Capillary flow is studied in polyester and polyamide yams and glass fibers using a technique based on the analysis of CCD images taken during the capillary rise of colored liquid in yams. The transition from dry yam to wet yam is not abrupt. Experiments analyze the causes of this gradually rising liquid front and the results are explained. As expected, the kinetics of capillary rise always follows the Lucas-Washburn equation, but the great dispersion of the experimental results along the yams is attributed to the yarn heterogeneity of the interfilament space.
Bleaching of Cotton Fabric by Electrogenerated Species—Decoloration of Coloring Matter by Electrolysis
Authors: Fukatsu K. , Kokot S.
Published: March 2008

Decoloration of dyes such as methylene blue and tartrazine solutions is investigated by subjecting dye solution to electrogenerated oxygen or chlorine species in electrolytes at a Pt anode. Decoloration is weak in the presence of electrogenerated oxygen species but increases in the KCl electrolyte. Decoloration in this solution is accomplished by the electrogenerated hypochlorite ion. Also, when placed in contact with a Pt anode, cotton fabric dyed with reactive dyes is decolorized significantly after short-term electrolysis in an electrolyte containing KCl, but decoloration of dyed fabrics is very weak in an electrolyte that is free from KCl.
Effect of Filament Spread Behavior on the Structure of Composite Yarns
Authors: Su Ching-Iuan
Published: March 2008

In this study, three defined spreading types of polyester filaments— evenly divided, one-sided, and tight section types—are adopted to analyze the twisting of model assem blies. The experimental results reveal that filament spreading behavior is the main factor influencing the structure of composite yams. If the polyester multifilament spreads effectively and divides evenly after passing through a spreading electrode, the percentage of the uniformly distributed area of the composite yam structure will be 43.0%.
Studying the Mechanical Properties of Blended Fibrous Structures Using a Simple Model
Authors: Ning Pan  , Kezhang Chen  , Monego Constantin J. , Backer Stanley
Published: March 2008

A simple theoretical model is proposed for studying the properties of blended fibrous structures. The model is verified using experimental results from blended yams. The effect on a blended system's properties due to interactions of the different constituents in the blended structure is analyzed, and the parameters influencing these interactions are revealed and discussed. A systematic dimensionless analysis is carried out, and the applicability of the model to predict the relationship between the optimal twist factor and the blend ratio for a blended yam is also examined.
Deformation of a Single Helix Under Simultaneous Application of Extension, Compression, and Bending
Authors: Göktepe F. , Lawrence C.A. , Leaf G.A.V.
Published: March 2008

An idealized model for a twisted yarn structure assumes that each fiber or filament follows a helical path and the yarn has a circular cross section in the undeformed state. An investigation of the behavior of a single helix can therefore be considered as a first step toward the mechanical analysis of yarn deformation under simultaneous extension, compression, and bending, which is the kind of deformation that occurs in many textile processes and applications. This paper presents a theoretical model of the large-scale deformation of a single helix subjected to bending, compression, and extension. The work studies the effects of varying the ratio of the flexural rigidity to the torsional rigidity of the helix material and of varying the helix angle together with the variation of the deformation forces. The cross section of a deformed helix is discussed in relation to the position of the neutral axis and strain energy. Also, some experimental data are presented to show the relevance of the theoretical results to the experimental findings.
Influence of Warp Loading on Weaving Machines upon Yarn Deformation
Authors: Kovačevič Stana , Hajdarović Krešimir , Grancarić Ana Marija
Published: March 2008

The breaking force of warp yarns taken per segments on the loom is measured using three weaves from the same warp on different looms. To simulate the deformation of warp yarns, samples from the warp beam are taken and, after various conditions of cyclic stress on a dynamometer, the most approximate degree of warp deformation is that which occurs in the weaving process per segments on the loom and per weave types. The F-test, t-test, χ2-test, and correlation coefficient reveal that there are no differences among breaking force values of the yarns from the looms or on yarns after cyclic stress and relaxation measured on the dynamometer, meaning that deformation imparted to the warp on the loom during weaving is very similar. Deformation caused by friction among yarns and imparted by metal pieces is not discussed here, but is included in the deformation caused by stress. Under the same conditions of cyclic stress, the elongation of the warp during stress in the segments of the loom is tested, and the conclusion is reached that elongation follows yarn deformation almost linearly. Investigations involve the same weaving conditions on the same loom and with the same warp, employing the three weaves. Dynamic tension of the warp is measured for each weave in the course of weaving, and the change in tension caused by changing the weave is registered.
Modeling for Suppression of Moisture/Temperature Induced Dimensional Changes in Unbalanced Fibrous Composite Structures with Periodic Bonding
Authors: Yiping Qiu  , Backer Stanley
Published: March 2008

Suppression of dimensional change induced by moisture and temperature change is studied for unbalanced structures composed of at least one hygroscopic component. An unbalanced parallel structure with periodic bonding is modeled, taking into account various parameters such as moisture content and temperature at the time of assembly, molecular orientation, and bonding length. The results show that two factors play a major role in moisture/temperature induced dimensional change: longitudinal swelling/shorten ing and material softening/stiffening. Whether the two factors add their effects to each other or compete against each other depends on the moisture content and temperature at the time of structural assembly. There is a range of critical aspect ratios over which the structure is dimensionally stable. This range increases with increasing width and thickness ratios, and decreases with increasing initial moisture regain, initial temperature, and orientation factor.
Influence of Cellulases on Indigo Backstaining
Authors: Andreaus Jürgen , Campos Rui , Gübitz Georg , Cavaco-Paulo Artur
Published: March 2008

We have found that increasing concentrations of fungal cellulases on a fabric decrease indigo staining levels. Deletion of the cellulose binding domains (CBD) from either bacterial or fungal cellulases decreases indigo staining levels and generally causes less backstaining than the entire enzyme. Increasing the concentration of cellulases with a CBD of family I on fabric decreases indigo staining, whereas increasing the concentration of cellulase with a CBD of family II has no effect on staining. After-washing experiments of indigo-stained cotton fabrics show that it is easier to remove indigo adsorbed on cellulase adsorbed onto cotton than indigo directly adsorbed onto cotton.
Sheerness of Extended Circular Plain Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Azuma Yoshiaki , Matsumoto Yo-Ichi , Saito Hideki , Shinohara Kazuo , Wakashima Kiyoto , Morooka Hideo
Published: March 2008

To improve the sheerness of pantyhose to enhance the beauty of women's legs, the design and development of a new yarn and product are proposed. The sheerness of circular plain knitted fabric made from single covered yarns is examined, and the relationships between color, covering level of single covered yarns, and degree of extension of knitted fabrics are discussed. The results show that the appearance and sheerness of pantyhose are greatly influenced by yarn characteristics, degree of extension, and color. Furthermore, sheerness cannot be defined only by light transmittivity. It is necessary to evaluate the lightness difference Δ L* of a uniform color space for a colorless sample and/or chroma ticity differences, Δ a* and Δ b* of a uniform color space for a colored sample.
Mechanical Profilometry of Wool and Mohair Fibers
Authors: Wortmann F.-J. , Wortmann Gabriele , Greven R.
Published: March 2008

In the scanning electron microscope, the surface of wool fibers is much rougher than that of mohair or other specialty fibers, mainly due to differences in the frequency and height of the cuticle scales. In order to assess and quantify these differences, which are essential for the perception of "roughness" and thus for fast fiber discrimination, mechan ical profilometry is used to assess coarse Merino wool and Texas mohair fibers. The data are analyzed by smoothing and Fourier analysis to separate cuticle-related effects of roughness from longer term fiber diameter changes attributed mainly to the characteristic circadian (daily) biological rhythm of the animal. The results show that subjectively observed differences in the roughness of the two fiber types are reflected in roughness and frequency parameters obtained from their mechanical profiles, enabling reliable discrim ination between wool and mohair.
Color Measurement of Flax Retted by Various Means
Authors: Akin Danny E. , Epps Helen H. , Archibald Douglas D. , Sharma H.S. Shekhar
Published: March 2008

Color measurements are made of various kinds of flax retted by dew, water, or enzymes. Two sets of samples are analyzed under different conditions using different spectropho tometers and by reflectance in the visible and near infrared spectral regions. Sample set one consists of 55 samples of various flax types retted by traditional dew and water methods and various experimental enzyme retted samples. Means and standard deviations of CIELAB color values for each of the classes are displayed as spheroid plots. The enzyme retted fiber flax class forms a separate group that is substantially lighter and slightly yellower than dew retted flax. Water retted flax is intermediate between dew and enzyme retted flax, but tends to be closer to dew retted flax. Near infrared spectra vary with different cleaning methods to remove shives from fibers. A second set of 16 samples consists of dew, water, and spray enzyme retted samples, the latter samples also analyzed with regard to subsequent cleaning processes. CIELAB and Hunter Lab methods provide similar comparisons, although CIELAB values are higher within treatments. Enzyme retted fibers tend (P > 0.05) to be lighter and yellower than water retted ones. None of the flax fibers are as light as the cotton samples included for comparison. The Δ ECIELAB values are 8.8 between dew and water retted fibers, 13.6 between dew and enzyme retted fibers, and 4.9 between water and enzyme retted fibers. Factors that affect the color of enzymatically retted flax fibers are prior microbial activity, shive content, and fiber fineness. These color methods could form the basis for developing a color standard for short staple flax fibers.
Two-Dimensional Analysis of Card Web Irregularity
Authors: Cherkassky A. , Kit B. , Porat I.
Published: March 2008

Irregularity of the surface mass density of a card web is presented as a two-dimensional random field. Transverse nonhomogeneity of the web is studied, and homogeneous equivalents of the measured random field irregularity are obtained using a homogenization procedure. The "degree of influence" of the card web's transverse nonhomogeneity is estimated. On the basis of two-dimensional smoothing, the effects of micro- and macro- irregularity are selected and studied. Influences of the parameters of two-dimensional smoothing on web irregularity in the micro- and macro-scales are analyzed. Statistical estimations of the relative area and volume of outliers of the web's surface mass density are obtained. The influence of CD-nonhomogeneity of the random field of web irregularity on the outlier characteristics is studied, and characteristics of the outliers for micro- and macro-scale random field irregularity are estimated.
Cotton Fabric Strength Loss from Treatment with Polycarboxylic Acids for Durable Press Performance
Authors: Xu Weilin , Yi Li
Published: March 2008

In this study, cotton fabrics are treated at different curing temperatures with different concentrations of 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) catalyzed with sodium hy pophosphite (SHP). Strength retention and wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) are tested, and the results show that high curing temperature and high BTCA concentration will reduce fabric strength and increase WRA. Regression models show that WRA has a close negative linear relation with the strength of the treated fabric. Both WRA and fabric strength are closely related with curing temperature and BTCA concentration. When the treated samples are further treated with 3% sodium hydroxide solution, fabric strength recovers in differing degrees and WRA decreases to the level of the control sample. Recoverable strength is assumed to be mostly induced by intramacromolecular crosslinking in the fibers, and unrecoverable strength is assumed to be due to the acidity of the treatment solution. The ratio of recoverable to unrecoverable strength shows that when curing temperature is around 160°C, strength loss due to the acidity of the treating solution is minimized.
Selecting Optimal Interlinings with a Neural Network
Authors: Jeong Sung H. , Kim Jung H. , Hong Cheol J.
Published: March 2008

This paper reports on the construction of an integrated tool consisting of a neural network and subjoined local approximation technique for application to the sewing process, especially for selecting optimal interlinings for woolen fabrics. A single hidden layer neural network is constructed with five input nodes, ten hidden nodes, and two output nodes. To train the network with a back-propagation learning algorithm, the mechanical parameters used as inputs for the fabrics are tensile energy, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, shear stiffness, and shear hysteresis, while mechanical parameters used as outputs for the interlinings are bending rigidity and shear stiffness, all of which are measured on the KES-FB system. Even though the back-propagation algorithm has a higher learning accuracy and can be successfully used to select the appropriate interlining, its learning process is too slow and it gets stuck in a local minimum. This research presents a few methods for improving the efficiency of the learning process. The raw data from the KES-FB system are nonlinearly normalized, and input orders are randomized. This proce dure produces a good result, such that the error values of the prediction model are low despite the relatively small data set for training. After training, the optimal interlinings for unknown fabrics can be correctly selected through mapping and the local approximation method.
Effect of an Air-Suction Nozzle on Yarn Hairiness and Quality
Authors: Boong Soo Jeon
Published: March 2008

Various types and parameters of nozzles in the conventional ring spinning machine diversely impact yarn hairiness, which inevitably occurs during spinning. This research attempts to reduce yarn hairiness by designing an air-suction nozzles as alternatives to the commonly used air-jet nozzle, and attaching them to a conventional spinning machine. To examine the effect of various nozzle parameters on yam hairiness and quality, air-suction nozzles with different hole angles and arrangements are designed and employed. The number of hairs longer than or equal to 3 mm is reduced by more than 50% when yams are spun through these specifically designed air-suction nozzles. Other yarn quality measures such as strength, elongation, and appearance also improve with these nozzles, without sacrificing yarn evenness.
Closed-Loop Control of Nonwoven Air-Laying Systems
Authors: Fang C.Y. , Gong R.H. , Porat I.
Published: March 2008

The feasibility of controlling the area density distribution in low-density air-laid nonwoven webs in both the machine direction and the cross direction is investigated. To improve web area density uniformity, it is necessary to control web uniformity in both directions. An air-laying web former with feedback to control web density distribution both along and across the machine direction is developed. Performance evaluation proves that the control method is effective.
Parameters of Rotor Spun Slub Yarn
Authors: Jun Wang  , Xiubao Huang
Published: March 2008

Using the mechanism of collecting and doubling in rotor spinning, the parameters of rotor spun slub yam are analyzed with special reference to slub length, factors affecting slub length, and the inherent connection of slub length to slub amplitude. The results show that slub length increases with an increasing slub multiple: the slub length is always longer than the rotor's circumferential length, and the factors affecting the slub length are rotor diameter, normal yam count, slub multiple, and servomotor performance.
Polymeric Fluorocarbon-Coated Polyester Substrates for Waterproof Breathable Fabrics
Authors: Hongjin Qi  , Kunyan Sui  , Zhaoli Ma  , Dong Wang  , Xiquan Sun  , Jianjun Lu
Published: March 2008

Fluorocarbon (FC) coatings are applied to poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) fabrics by ion beam sputtering of polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) under different conditions. The range of the adhesion work of the coated fabrics is 5-75 10-3N.M-1 . After a washing and wearing test, most of the original coating grains remain on the fabrics, exhibiting good hydrophobicity. From XPS and ATR-FTIR analysis and property experiments, the adhesion work decreases with increasing energy due to increased fluorine content in the coatings, while it basically increases with increasing pore diameter and porosity of the specimens, probably due to the decrease in the real water-coating contact areas and roughness. For most of the just-coated specimens, no yellowing is observed due to high fluorine content. The coated fabric generally exhibits the original moisture permeability of the uncoated fabric because the PC coating covers only the fiber surfaces and most of the original pores in the fabrics remain.
Deodorant Properties of Wool Fabrics Dyed with Acid Mordant Dyes and a Copper Salt
Authors: Kobayashi Yasuko , Nakanishi Tadashi , Komiyama Jiro
Published: March 2008

Wool fabrics with a deodorant function are prepared by acid mordant dyeing with copper(II) nitrate. The effects of pre- and after-mordanting are examined for C.I. Mordant Yellow 3 and C.I. Mordant Red 17. Carboxylate groups in the wool fibers and the dyes work to fix copper ion with the deodorant ability against mercaptan. The elimination of mercaptan from the air by the mordant dyed fabrics is measured in a Teddler bag. Fabrics untreated or dyed without mordanting show no deodorant ability, but those pre-mordanted or pre- and after-mordanted show considerable deodorant ability. By controlling the pH of the dyebath to about 4, dye and copper ion uptake of the fabric is optimized and the deodorant ability is also optimum.
Developing a Twist Draft Spinning System for Small-Scale Production of Special Material Yarns
Authors: Takemura H. , Nakazawa M. , Kawamura T. , Kobayashi T.
Published: March 2008

This paper presents a new spinning system, a kind of twist draft spinning in which the withdrawal tension in a yam being spun out is used to control its count. This system produces the yam directly from a large mass of fibers in a pot, can spin even low quality fibers that are difficult to spin with modem spinning systems, and is able to keep up with small-scale production of functional yams made from special materials. The spinning process is analyzed and the relation between the yam properties and the fiber properties is revealed. This relation is a valuable tool for designing properties of yarns spun with twist draft spinning. Several functional yarns of a special material are also spun with this system.
Three-Dimensional Computer Modeling of Warp Knitted Structures
Authors: Goktepe O. , Harlock S.C.
Published: March 2008

In this work, a 3D computer aided designing (CAD) system is developed for solid modeling and visual simulation of warp knitted structures on Silicon Graphics workstations. In the first part, a three-dimensional cylindrical and uniform solid yarn model is developed, such that its central axis is a space curve, using non-uniform rational B-spline (NURBS) surfaces to achieve a true 3D solid representation of warp knit loops and structures. This yarn model is then used to create single warp knit loops and fabrics. The necessary data for empirical loop models are obtained from experimental work. This paper describes the methodology and mathematics used to create the yarn and loop models. Some examples of warp knit fabrics are generated on a computer using the empirical loop models, and these images are compared with real warp knit fabric pictures for visual evaluation.
SAXS Method for Evaluating Changes in the Supermolecular Structure of Wool Fibers Treated with Chemical Agents
Authors: Pielesz A. , Wlochowicz A. , Ślusarczyk CZ
Published: March 2008

Changes in the supermolecular structure of wool fibers, particularly those on the level of the microfibril-matrix complex, are analyzed using the small-angle x-ray scattering method (SAXS). The interfibrillar distances increase after dyeing; conformation changes within disulfide bonds are also suggested, caused by a chemical reduction of the fiber. Internbrillar distances decrease in dyed fibers treated with a solution of natural sweat.
Applying Pattern Recognition Principles to Grading Textile Yarns
Authors: Lien Hsin-Chung , Lee Shyong
Published: March 2008

This research reports on a simple and effective system for grading textile yarns by pattern recognition theory. During the learning processes of textile yarn grading, yarn property vectors can be transferred to the principal axis vector (PAV) of the orthononnal, function with Karhunen-Loeve expansion, in order to select features and then reduce dimensions. With the Bayes classifier or the minimum distance method, the decision function for grading textile yarns can be obtained. Then, under the premise of not sacrificing the identification rate, the learning process can be repeated to search for the transfer matrix and the decision function with PAVS of the lowest identifiable dimension. This system is a quick and effective way to grade textile yarns by using PAVS of only one dimension, thus both simplifying the identification system and providing objective grading results.
Predicting Circular Knitting Machine Parameters for Cotton Plain Fabrics Using Conventional and Neuro-Fuzzy Methods
Authors: Ucar Nuray , Ertugrul Seniz
Published: March 2008

Although there are many studies related to predicting the dimensions of knitted fabrics, there are no studies available about predicting the knitting machine used to produce the knit. Until now, the decision to select a knitting machine was made through experience, trial and error, or rough calculations. This study predicts the machine gauge and diameter more accurately for cotton plain knitted fabrics. Both conventional (multiple linear regression) and neuro-fuzzy methods are used for the predictions. High correlation coefficients are obtained with multiple linear regression analysis. A neuro-fuzzy method using an adaptive network based fuzzy inference system (ANFIS) is also used for predic tions, and the results of both systems are compared.
Analyzing the Dyeing Behavior and Chromaticity Characteristics of Polyester Microfibers
Authors: Keqiang Chen  , Zhongxun Chen  , Jianwei Xing
Published: March 2008

The dyeing properties of polyester microfibers and regular polyester filaments are studied by measuring the dyeing rates of four disperse dyes, the K/S values, and the color properties of cross-sectional views of the dyed fibers. The research reveals that at 70°C, dye exhaustion of microfibers is very small, meaning that dyeing the fibers at a low initial dyeing temperature is less effective in achieving good color effects, particularly with high energy disperse dyes. Also, when dyeing microfibers, small disperse dyes require a low dyeing temperature and bulky dyes require a higher dyeing temperature. Microfibers have a lower initial dye exhaustion temperature than regular fibers. Based on reflective curves, some chromaticity characteristics of the microfibers are also reported.
Cotton Wax and Its Relationship with Fiber and Yarn Properties
Authors: Cui Xiaoliang Leon , Price John B. , Calamari Timothy A. , Hemstreet James M. , Meredith William
Published: March 2008

In this study, thirty-six cultivars of U.S. upland cotton are selected and their wax content determined by the Conrad method. Both ring spun and open-end yarns are then made from these cottons. Various fiber and yarn properties are measured before and after wax removal using AFIS, HVI, the West Point cohesion tester, and the Uster Tensorapid yam tensile tester, Correlations of wax content with fiber properties and yam properties are analyzed.
Influence of Thickness and Porosity on Coupled Heat and Liquid Moisture Transfer in Porous Textiles
Authors: Yi Li  , Qingyong Zhu  , Yeung K.W.
Published: March 2008

This paper focuses on a theoretical investigation of the coupling mechanism of heat transfer and liquid moisture diffusion in porous textiles using a mathematical model developed earlier. In the model, an equation describing liquid diffusion behavior is incorporated into an energy conservation equation and mass conservation equations of water vapor and liquid water transfer, which include vapor diffusion, evaporation, and sorption of moisture by fibers. A series of computations with systematic variations of fabric thickness and porosity is made to investigate the interactions between heat transfer and moisture transfer. Meanwhile, experiments are conducted to validate the model for fabrics with different degrees of hygroscopicity and thickness. Predictions of temperature changes during moisture transients are compared with experimental measurements, and . good agreement is observed between the two, indicating that the model is satisfactory. Analysis of the computational and experimental results illustrates that the heat transfer process, which is influenced by fabric thickness and porosity, significantly impacts moisture transport processes.
One-Bath Dyeing and Nonformaldehyde Durable Press Finishing of Cotton Using Dialdehyde and a Monochlorotriazinyl Reactive Dye
Authors: Choi Hyung-Min
Published: March 2008

Cotton is subjected to one-bath dyeing and durable press finishing (ODF) with dialde hyde and a monochlorotriazinyl reactive dye. Results indicate that an optimal curing temperature is 150°C to simultaneously fix dialdehyde and reactive dye on cotton.- Changing the immersion temperature and time (40°C for 20 minutes) in the treatment bath greatly enhances the efficiency of the ODF process with dialdehyde and reactive dye.
Fluid Simulation of the Airflow in Texturing Jets
Authors: Rwei Syang-Peng , Pai Hsin-I
Published: March 2008

This study attempts to understand flow behavior inside texturing nozzles by computer simulation. The texturing degree and fluctuation number are calculated for different texturing conditions while processing fine denier yarn thread. Simulation results indicate that texturing is enhanced when the cross-sectional area of the inlet hole reaches 1/4, or when the ratio of the length over diameter ( L/D) of the yarn channel is between 8 and 10. Additionally, the obliqueness of the air inlet hole with an angle between 45° and 60° facilitates texturing. A yarn channel with a noncircular cross section outperforms one with circular cross section. Finally, a yarn channel with a 10° divergent exit can benefit texturing. All these results are compared with the experimental observations of other researchers or with satisfactory industrial nozzles, and there is good agreement.
Compressional Behavior of Perpendicular-Laid Nonwovens Containing Cotton
Authors: Parikh D.V. , Calamari T.A. , Sawhney A.P.S. , Robert K.Q. , Kimmel L. , Glynn E. , Jirsak O. , Mackova I. , Saunders T.
Published: March 2008

This paper discusses highloft perpendicular-laid nonwovens made with cotton, poly ester, and bicomponent bonding fibers rather than the usual synthetic fibers. Compres sional resistance and subsequent recovery properties (when the deforming forces are removed) of perpendicular-laid highlofts are compared to those made by conventional cross-laid technology. A simple thickness measurement instrument is used as a highloft compressibility gauge. The perpendicular-laid fabrics show higher compressional resis tance and their recovery properties are superior to those of cross-laid fabrics. Low cotton-content highlofts containing up to 20% cotton have a compressional behavior and dimensional stability similar to 100% synthetic fiber fabrics. These low cotton-content highlofts are economical to produce and have improved biodegradability.
Cotton Wax and Its Relationship with Fiber and Yarn Properties
Authors: Price John B. , Xiaoliang Cui  , Calamari Timothy A. , Meredith William R.
Published: March 2008

Skeins of yams spun from a wide range of cottons are dewaxed by Soxhlet extraction with ethanol. After drying, their mechanical properties are determined by single yarn tensile tests. Dewaxing produces a significant increase in yarn tenacity and a slight decrease in elongation at break. Yarn tensile properties are regressed on data sets of fiber properties that include wax content. Yarn strength is explained primarily by fiber strength and fiber fineness, although fiber strength and Micronaire value provided a reasonably good estimate. Wax content, which appears to be closely related to the specific surface area of the fiber, and hence Micronaire value, fails to qualify for entry into regression equations for yarn strength.
Effect of Bonding Temperature on Load-Deformation Structural Changes in Point-Bonded Nonwoven Fabrics
Authors: Kim H.S. , Pourdeyhimi B. , Abhiraman A.S. , Desai P.
Published: March 2008

We have recently reported on in situ experimental visualization and measurement of the structural changes that occur during controlled deformation experiments for a point- bonded nonwoven fabric. This paper extends that work to a series of point-bonded nonwovens with different processing conditions. We demonstrate that changes in the structure are driven by the initial orientation distribution function (ODF) of the fibers. We show that changes in the bond spot strain, unit bond repeat pattern strain, and shear deformation of this unit cell as a function of applied macroscopic deformation are similar for all structures with the same initial ODF.
Twisting Mechanisms of Open-End Rotor Spun Hybrid Yarns
Authors: Matsumoto Yo-Ichi , Fushimi Satoshi , Saito Hideki , Sakaguchi Akio , Toriumi Koichiro , Nishimatsu Toyonori , Shimizu Yoshio , Shirai Hirofusa , Morooka Hideo , Gong Hugh
Published: March 2008

We have developed a mechanical hybrid yam spinning system that produces different kinds of yam on a modified open-end rotor spinning frame. In order to understand the characteristics of hybrid yam and produce novel yarns, it is necessary to investigate yarn formation and the twisting mechanism in the spinning rotor during yam production. Our results reveal that the rotor revolution generally results in combining the filament yam and the staple fiber strand. The fiber twist angle of the strand in a hybrid yarn is smaller than that of a rotor spun single yam with the same spinning conditions. Although a fed filament yam has a false twist inserted by increasing the filament over-feed, the filament yarn in the hybrid yarn has a smaller level of fiber twist angle in the same direction as the twist of the staple fiber strand due to untwisting of the false twist.
Tensile Drawing of Rotor Spun Yarn
Authors: Jinlian Hu  , Xiuying Jiang
Published: March 2008

Rotor spun yarn, despite its growing popularity, suffers the disadvantages of lower tenacity, limited count range, and harsh handle of the resulting fabrics. Therefore, this work probes the possibility of eliminating these drawbacks by using tensile drawing. The yams are produced with different specifications from the same fibers. The results are encouraging, since contrary to predictions, staple yams treated this way do perform properly. Tensile drawing especially improves rotor spun yarn quality in terms of structural/mechanical evenness and processability. Other features include increased pack ing density, reduced yarn diameter, enhanced mechanical rigidity, and even the potential for larger tenacity. The influence of processing variables on yarn properties is also revealed by examining the contribution of the number of yarn loops mounted on the feed roller and rewinding to drawing and the resulting products. The number of yarn loops wound on the feed roller is significant in terms of drawing tension. Optimum drawing can be obtained without rewinding in terms of better yarn properties and economics, though rewinding can effectively eliminate fiber breakage. Moreover, the truely critical factor in the drawing extent should be drawing tension rather than the so-called drawing ratio.
Tensile Drawing of Rotor Spun Yarn
Authors: Jinlian Hu  , Xiuying Jiang  , Postle Ron
Published: March 2008

Rotor yams subjected to a tensile drawing process, as reported in Part I. not only differ from their original form in terms of yam structure, but also in bulk, mechanical, and surface properties. The fabrics produced from drawn rotor spun yams are no doubt affected by these changes. This paper presents a report on changes in fabric characteris tics. Experimental observation reveals an appreciable improvement in most fabric me chanical properties. What is more important, dimensional stability and pilling perfor mance are not seriously influenced. Both subjective evaluations and rational experimental results particularly indicate that comfort significantly improves as well. Other features of modified yam fabrics include a whiter appearance, a slight increase in fabric weight-per- unit-area, and a rise in fabric thickness.
Color and Weave Effects with Some Small Weave Repeat Sizes
Authors: Dawson R.M.
Published: March 2008

The derivation of families of color and weave effects from a family of weaves is analyzed. All conceivable color and weave families derived from two-color yarn se quences over one weave repeat are identified for repeat sizes up to 4 X 4. The numbers of effect families realizable with individual weave families vary greatly, and tend to be fewer with the more symmetrical weaves. The fewest effect families occur with the 2/2 twill weave family, and all are illustrated. Also examined for each effect family are the number of weave families with which it is realizable, compatible pairs of yarn color sequences, and corresponding conditional weave diagrams. Families of effects not real izable for any combination of weave and yarn color sequences are identified. Effect diagrams without rows or columns all of one color are shown to be identical to weave diagrams for stacks of unconnected fabrics. Effects with yarn color sequences over several weave repeats are mosaics of those with sequences over one repeat; their numbers are given for 2 × 2 and 3 × 3 weave families.
Measuring and Modeling 3D Wrinkles in Fabrics
Authors: Jinlian Hu  , Binjie Xin  , HaoJing Yan
Published: March 2008

In this paper, we propose a new method for measuring fabric wrinkling based on integrating photometric stereo and image analysis techniques. In the traditional method. wrinkled fabrics are evaluated subjectively according to the grades of replica plates supplied by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC). But due to the disadvantages of subjective methods. which are tedious, time-consuming, subjective, and so on. image analysis techniques are used in this work as an objective method. However, serious problem occur when colored and patterned fabrics are tested with conventional images and processing techniques, although they work for tests of solid fabrics. In this paper, a photometric stereo method is used to extract three-dimensional surfaces of fabrics and successfully eliminate the influence of color and pattern. Image analysis techniques are furthered to extract wrinkling features of these reconstructed 3D images, and there is a good linear correlation between objective parameters and subjective AATCC grades.
A Method of Feature Selection for Textile Yarn Grading Using the Effective Distance Between Clusters
Authors: Lien Hsin-Chung , Lee Shyong
Published: March 2008

By using the effective distance between clusters (EDC) as the basis for feature selection, this paper achieves a significant and effective feature for textile yarn grading, and further upgrades the operational efficiency of such grading. The results, such as feature selection processing to principal axis vectors (PAVS) by EDC, show that the feature's average number and average total distance of mistaken ranking by EDC are only 33.3% and 16.7% of those by Karhunen-Loeve (K-L) expansion, respectively. Furthermore, EDC can be applied directly to the feature selection of property vectors (PVS) and can reduce the measured items of pvs without lowering identification precision. Compared with our previous method of textile yarn grading, EDC provides 16.7% greater efficiency both in measuring pvs and calculating PAV1 time.
A New Tensile Model for Rotor Spun Yarns
Authors: Jiang X.Y. , Hu J.L. , Postle R.
Published: March 2008

This paper reports a refined model to predict the tensile behavior of rotor spun yarn from the knowledge of specimen specifications and yarn strain. Fundamental approaches used in modeling include a discrete fiber-modeling principle, an energy method, and a "shortest-path" hypothesis. The study is based on a coaxial-helix structural model, taking account of nonuniform yarn packing density. Most importantly, a changing-pitch system is introduced for the first time in yarn modeling. A pitch function is thus determined with the aid of a nonlinear regression method and a curve-fitting approach using images obtained from a tracer fiber technique. The model is also compared with experimental data, together with a theoretical analysis of fiber strain distribution, confirming that, due to the introduction of the changing-pitch system, the model is very successful in explain ing the experimental observations.
Comparison of Total Hand of Single Knitted Fabrics Made from lincLITE® and Conventional Wool Yarns
Authors: Park Shin-Woong , Hwang Young-Gu
Published: March 2008

Two sets of single wool weft-knitted fabrics made from conventional yarn and lin cLITE®, which was developed by the Wool Research Organization of New Zealand in an effort to make a softer and bulkier wool, are used to analyze a total hand evaluation model for outerwear knitted fabrics. Mechanical properties and total hand value are measured on the KES-FB system, and three kinds of fuzzy membership functions (a decreasing half- Cauchy equation and two linear functions, increasing or decreasing) are used to calculate fuzzified overall hand values of the knitted fabrics. The weighted factor vectors surveyed by a Korean panel are strongly related to those of a New Zealand panel. Based on these surveys, we calculate the total hand value of the KES-FB and the fuzzy model. The latter results show that the bulkiness of single wool fabric knitted from lincLITE yarn is a little higher than the same fabric knitted from conventional yarn. Furthermore, the fuzzy total hand evaluation from the Korean panel is highly correlated with the result of the New Zealanders.
Comfort Sensations of Polo Shirts With and Without Wrinkle-Free Treatment
Authors: Lau L. , Fan J. , Siu T. , Siu L.Y.C.
Published: March 2008

This paper reports an experimental investigation of comfort sensations of people wearing polo shirts with different garment treatments. Subjects are asked to rate their comfort sensations before and after exercising. Before exercise, overall discomfort is largely determined by tactile sensations ( e.g., itchiness and prickliness): after exercise. overall discomfort is mostly governed by moisture related sensations ( e.g., dampness and clinginess).
Stitch Length Variation in Circular Knitting Machines Due to Yarn Winding Tension Variation in the Storage Yarn Feed Wheel
Authors: Dias T. , Lanarolle G.
Published: March 2008

The yarn delivery rate required to knit a given stitch quality on a multifeeder circular knitting machine is generally based on the belt speed of the positive yarn feed system. The actual stitch length in the fabric measured after knitting is always less than the stitch length required. Yam tension immediately before the yarn is wound on the storage yarn feed wheel is the main cause of this problem. This paper investigates the tension build-up of the yam on its way from the yarn, package to the storage yarn feed wheel. Several fabric samples are knitted with different winding tensions to the storage yam feed wheel, and the stitch lengths of the samples are measured. The results show that the stitch length is largely affected by the winding tension to the storage yarn feed wheel.