bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Dyeing Properties of Polyester Microfibers
Authors: Nakamura T. , Ohwaki S. , Shibusawa T.
Published: March 2008

Sorption isotherms and dyeing rates of purified disperse dyes on polyester microfibers (fineness of 0.25-1.0 denier) from water have been measured at 95°C. The isotherms are curved and well described in terms of the dual-mode sorption model: Nemst-type partitioning and Langmuir sorption are concurrently operative. The effect of a diffusional boundary layer on the dyeing rate is small under the conditions; the microfibers were dyed in the form of a bulky two-ply yarn in a well stirred bath. Dyeing rates of a commercial dye are also measured at 110 and 130°C. For dyeing of a 0.32d fiber at 130°C, the amount of dye sorbed by the fibers attains a maximum value at an early stage and then decreases gradually. This phenomenon is explained in terms of the aqueous solubility of very fine dye particles. The relation between dye sorption behavior and the fine structure of the microfibers is discussed.
Analysis of Crosslinked Silicones on Wool by Atomic Absorption Spectroscopy
Authors: Evans David J.
Published: March 2008

A simple method has been devised for the quantitative analysis of crosslinked silicones on wool. The advantages of this method are its insensitivity to the presence of silica or silicates and its ability to detect concentrations less than 0.1% silicone solids on the mass of wool. The method involves depolymerization of the cured silicone by aminolysis with anhydrous n-propylamine. The solubilized silicone is then extracted into methylisobutylketone and the silicon content determined by atomic absorption spectroscopy. The method has been tested with two commercial amino functional organosiloxanes currently used in finishing wool fabrics.
Analysis of the Forces Generated During the Clipping of Travellers onto Rings
Authors: Sonntag Eckhard
Published: March 2008

The first stress on a traveller occurs while clipping it onto the ring flange. To clip a C-shaped traveller onto the appropriate T-flange, a force of 1 to 10 N is necessary, depending on the material and geometry of the cross section. During this operation, very high local tensions can arise in the traveller because of its small dimensions. Plastic deformation of the traveller material or damage to the traveller surface or its plating can result. It is interesting to know the tensions that arise in the ring traveller contact zone and at the point of the yam path area. During spinning, the traveller undergoes high mechanical and thermal stress in the contact zone, and so damage ( i.e., cracks, scratches, and detachment of coatings) leads to an accelerated breakdown of the traveller. If there is any damage of the coating during clipping, the performance of the ring/traveller system will be poor; therefore, it is important to thoroughly examine the clipping procedure.
Self-Organizing Neural Nets: A New Approach to Quality in Textiles
Authors: Sette S. , Boullart L. , Kiekens P.
Published: March 2008

Until recently, textile quality assessment has been very difficult and mostly done by human experts. In the search for a more objective methodology, neural network techniques can be an excellent alternative. The first part of our paper presents a general introduction to neural network modeling techniques and focuses more extensively on the "topological mapping" model. The second part applies those techniques to textile quality assessment. Two problem cases are assessed—carpet wear and set marks. Both are objectively analyzed using self-organizing Kohonen neural networks. In both cases, the results are good and the system also indicates the objectivity of the human experts.
Heat and Moisture Transfer in Textile Assemblies
Authors: Le C.V. , Ly N.G. , Postle R.
Published: March 2008

We have studied heat and mass transfer in wool, cotton, nylon, and polyester fabric beds during steaming. Our mathematical model, which is based on local volume average methods, considers the finite rates of heat and mass transfer between the solid, gaseous, and liquid phases of the system. Experiments involve the steaming of fabric beds of various types. Theoretical calculations and experimental work focus on the initial stage of steam penetration characterized by steep rises in bed temperature and moisture content. The effects of fiber diameter, absorption rate, bed porosity, and initial regain on the heat transfer front are examined. With a dry bed of wool or cotton fabric, steaming produces a sharp increase in regain at the heat transfer front, accompanied by a significant rise in the bed temperature. With a nylon or polyester fabric bed, the heat transfer front is followed by a "transient equilibrium" period during which the bed temperature remains unchanged.
Fatigue Behavior of Aramid Nonwoven Fabrics Under Hot-Press Conditions
Authors: Watanabe Akira , Miwa Minoru , Takeno Akiyoshi , Yokoi Teruyuki
Published: March 2008

Tensile and compressive behaviors of aramid and polyamide nonwoven fabrics are studied under hot-press fatigue conditions. Tensile breaking strength and the maximum modulus of tensile strength-elongation curves for the polyamide nonwovens gradually decrease with increasing fatigue after around 15 cycles, while those of the aramid nonwovens substantially increase. Aramid nonwoven values are about three to five times those of the polyamide nonwovens. These fatigue behaviors result from the differences in heat resistance and mechanical properties of polyamide and aramid fibers, indicating that polyamide fibers greatly deteriorate with heat while aramid fibers deteriorate only a little. Although we have assumed that the aramid nonwoven fabrics compact their fiber assemblies under increasing cycles, there are no substantial dif ferences in the compressive behaviors of polyamide and aramid nonwovens.
Visible/Near Infrared Spectroscopy of Scoured Wool
Authors: Hammersley M.J. , Townsend P.E. , Grayston G.F. , Ranford S.L.
Published: March 2008

Residual grease levels and moisture content of commercially scoured wools have been estimated using spectroscopic methods over the wavelength range 400 to 2500 nm using both transmission and reflectance techniques. The most reliable predictive equations come from the longer wavelength region ( 1100-2500 nm), and reflectance measurements are more satisfactory than transmission measurements. Also, the com monly used algorithms for calculating prediction equations tend to give similar values of SEP (standard error of performance), suggesting that the calibration population coverage and the quality of the data from the reference method are the main deter minants of the quality of NIR-based predictions.
Fatigue Behavior of Aramid Nonwoven Fabrics Under Hot-Press Conditions
Authors: Watanabe Akira , Miwa Minoru , Takeno Akiyoshi , Yokoi Teruyuki
Published: March 2008

Relationships between the mechanical properties and geometric fibrous configu rations for aramid and polyamide nonwoven fabrics under hot-press fatigue are dis cussed. In order to examine fiber configurational changes in nonwoven fabrics under compression, image data of fabric cross sections prepared for observation were input in a computer processing system, and the cross-sectional configuration of the fibers, cross-sectional area, circle index of fiber configuration, and packing factors were com puted. The tensile breaking strength and tensile maximum modulus of polyamide nonwoven fabrics decreased despite the increase in the fibrous packing factor of the fabrics, while those' of aramid nonwoven fabrics increased. This may be attributed to the difference in high-temperature resistant properties between the two fiber types. The compressive modulus of both nonwovens increased similarly as their packing factors increased. It is clear that the very high compressive modulus of Ny fabrics, which is nearly the same as that of Nx fabrics, is caused by the high packing factor of Ny, higher than that of Nx fabrics.
Heat and Moisture Transfer in Textile Assemblies
Authors: Le C.V. , Tester D.H. , Buckenham P. , Postle R.
Published: March 2008

The heat and mass transfer model developed in Part I has been further modified to evaluate the steaming of blended and interleaved fabric-wrapper assemblies. Various conditions relating to the batch decatizing of a wool fabric with a cotton, nylon, or polyester wrapper have been examined. Results of the computations show that cotton wrappers produce a constant and uniform increase in the regain of wool fabric, but a high fabric temperature may result when steaming a low-regain assembly. With nylon or polyester wrappers, fabric regain increases significantly with steaming time, while fabric temperature remains close to the steaming temperature. The effects of initial temperature, moisture content, and wrapper fiber type on the wool fabric are greater at higher wrapper-to-fabric weight ratios.
Effect of Water on High-Strength and High-Modulus Poly(vinyl Alcohol ) Fibers from Crosslinking Wet Spinning /Multistep Drawing
Authors: Lin Chin-An , Hwang Kuen-Shan , Lin Chung-Hua
Published: March 2008

The presence of water in poly (vinyl alcohol ) fibers spun from a water-soluble poly mer was investigated using differential scanning calorimetry, polarizing microscopy, scanning electron microscopy, and x-ray diffraction techniques. Poly( vinyl alcohol ) fibers were produced using the crosslinking wet spinning technique, which is an im provement on conventional noncrosslinked wet spinning. Borate ion-aided crosslinks were introduced during the coagulation process. Fibers had a higher drawability with the advanced wet-hot process and multi-step drawing. The tensile strength and modulus of drawn poly(vinyl alcohol ) fibers were 1.82 and 51.76 GPa, respectively. The presence of water in the fibers damaged their structure and drastically disturbed the orientation of their molecular chains. After tensile testing, there was a fractured circular layer in the fibers.
Fiber Hygroscopicity and Perceptions of Dampness
Authors: Li Y. , Plante A.M. , Holcombe B.V.
Published: March 2008

The role of fiber moisture sorption behavior in the sensory perception of dampness in fabrics has been investigated both experimentally and mechanistically. The way in which water is held in fabrics influences the thermal transients that occur during skin contact. Fabrics with water content in excess of the equilibrium regain for the ambient conditions, but below fiber saturation, depress skin temperature less during skin contact than those in which the water content is above fiber saturation. The brief temperature drop at the skin surface that occurs at the moment of contact correlates with the subjective assessment of dampness.
A Physically Based Model of Fabric Drape Using Flexible Shell Theory
Authors: Bijian Chen  , Govindaraj Muthu
Published: March 2008

A shear flexible shell theory is used to predict the drape of fabrics. The fabric is considered a continuous, orthotropic medium. Finite element formulations are used to numerically solve governing equations under specific boundary conditions. Initially, the fabric is assumed to be a flat plate, which goes through large deformation during the process of draping. The load (fabric weight) is applied in steps to the model. During each step, a Newton-Raphson iteration method is used to solve nonlinear equilibrium equations under current load level. The material characteristics used in the model are Young's modulus in the warp and weft directions, shear modulus, and Poisson's ratio. Simulation of a 30 × 30 cm fabric draped over a 12 × 12 cm table is achieved in less than eight minutes of CPU time on an IBM RS 6000 workstation.
An Automated Color-Sorting Device for Wool and Other Fibers
Authors: Abbott G.M.
Published: March 2008

A new method is described for on-line sorting of colored faults from undyed fibrous materials such as scoured or carbonized wool. To obtain realistic throughput rates, the wool is pneumatically conveyed in sorting ducts at air speeds of 16 m/s and the faults selectively removed by a high-speed reject device. A prototype six-duct sorter having a designed capacity of 1000 kg/h is tested on both wool and cotton. The sorting performance of the device with carbonized wool is a large improvement over existing manual sorting procedures, with reject rates of up to five faults per second per duct. Trials are also described in which stains and matted clumps are removed from top- making wools. In addition, sorting manmade contaminants from wool and cotton proves to be both efficient and selective.
Effect of Oil on Spread Width of Composite Yarn
Authors: Wu Wen-Yean , Lee Jiunn-Yih
Published: March 2008

This study describes the effect of oil on the spread width of polyester multifilament composite yam. The results show that a special oil for this use is critical: the solid content and viscosity of the oil are slightly lower in order to reduce the sticking of the spread multifilament; the coefficient of kinetic friction μ k and electrical conductivity of the oiled polyester multifilament are higher so as to conduct and accumulate electrical charges, and then more easily divide and spread the multifilament. In addition, pickup of the oil is set to about 0.7% for a better spreading effect. Further, spread width increases with an increase in mill absolute humidity and spreading voltage when using a special oil. Yam properties are improved with increased spread width, and spread width depends on oil type.
Dyeing Polyester at Low Temperatures: Kinetics of Dyeing with Disperse Dyes
Authors: Fité F.J. Carrion
Published: March 2008

This paper proposes a dyeing process for polyester at low temperatures ( 40°C and below) with disperse dyes using a microemulsion prepared by ultrasonic agitation, composed of a small proportion of organic solvent ( alkyl halogen) and phosphogliceride as the emulsifier. The kinetics of this dyeing system are determined as a function of temperature with various disperse dyes at different molecular weights. In general, dyes with lower molecular weight have a faster dyeing rate and those with a higher molecular weight have a lower rate. Activation energies range from 20-40 Kcal . mol-1 ; these values are similar to those achieved in traditional dyeing with a carrier.
Cotton Fiber Secondary Wall Development—Time Versus Thickness
Authors: Goynes W.R. , Ingber B.F. , Triplett B.A.
Published: March 2008

Secondary wall thickness is a function of maturity in cotton fibers. Fibers begin to elongate at anthesis, and elongation continues for approximately 20 days. As this elongation period ends, deposition of the secondary wall begins and continues for 25- 30 days until the boll "matures" and opens. The exact period of elongation and sec ondary thickening depends on factors such as variety, growing temperature, and light level. This microscopical study illustrates rates of secondary wall development in three cotton varieties, and shows effects of drastic changes in light and temperature, as well as differences in fiber development within a single boll.
Imaging Wool Fiber Surfaces with a Scanning Force Microscope
Authors: Phillips T.L. , Horr T.J. , Huson M.G. , Turner P.S. , Shanks R.A.
Published: March 2008

Surfaces of wool scales are imaged using a scanning force microscope (SFM) and a field emission scanning electron microscope (FESEM). Atomic force microscope (AFM) images of wool fiber surfaces can be correlated with FESEM micrographs to provide complementary views of surface features. The AFM images are analyzed for scale height; on average there is a 21% increase when changing from air to water. The variability of scale height changes is large, and a model involving both swelling and scale move ment has been proposed. Lateral force microscope (LFM) images show complementary information to topographic AFM images and reveal the effects of surface treatment not available with other imaging techniques. Such images of treated wool surfaces reveal major inhomogeneities in friction, which are interpreted as differences in chem ical composition.
A Nonlinear Viscoelastic Model for Describing the Deformation Behavior of Braided Fiber Seals
Authors: Zhong Cai
Published: March 2008

A nonlinear viscoelastic model has been proposed to describe the time-dependent deformation behavior of a fiber assembly including braided fiber seals. The model is based on the standard solid model, but modified to contain three nonlinear spring and damper elements. For a fiber assembly under a compressive load, the deformation status can be characterized by the fiber volume fraction Vf. The elastic spring and viscous damper elements in the proposed model are assumed to be nonlinear functions of Vf. General deformation solutions in the cases of creep and stress relaxation are obtained, as are nonlinear functional forms of the spring and damper elements versus V f through a series of stress relaxation experiments on the fiber seals. The results are then used to analyze the deformation behavior of the fiber seals in the case of creep, and in other cases with ramp pressure or ramp displacement conditions.
Degree and Stability of the Flat Set of Plain. Weft Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Phukan Ava Rani , Subramaniam V.
Published: March 2008

This work investigates the degree and stability of flat set for a series of plain weft knitted structures made from ring and rotor spun yams produced from cotton, poly ester, and polyester blends. While the flat set of cotton fabrics shows more or less similar values following bleaching and dyeing, for polyester fabrics a lower value follows scouring and heat setting. Of the various methods used to study the degree of flat set, curling couple merits consideration in view of its sensitivity.
Changes in the Chemical Composition of Wool During Dyeing and Finishing and Their Effects on Fabric Properties
Authors: Garcia J. , Postle R. , Pailthorpe M.T.
Published: March 2008

The chemical composition of a wool fabric is determined after each of a variety of dyeing and finishing processes. The main concern is to observe the effect of dye-fiber interactions and dyeing recipe differences. Dyeing liquor pH and decatizing have a large influence on chemical composition. Reactive dyes react at histidine and cysteine sites, and affect the behavior of cystine during dyeing and both cysteine and cystine during decatizing. Low stress fabric mechanical properties are related to cysteine levels. It is clear that cysteine plays a role in fabric property changes during processing, possibly due to its importance in the thiol-disulphide interchange reaction, which is thought to be important in stress relaxation processes.
Relation of Single Fiber and Bundle Strengths of Cotton
Authors: Frydrych Iwona
Published: March 2008

A theoretical derivation of an equation for bundle strength is presented, assuming a normal distribution of single fiber strains. Unfortunately, the experimental fiber strain distribution cannot be considered as normal. Therefore, further theoretical con sideration involves the derivation of an equation for bundle strength assuming Ray leigh's distribution of single fiber strains. Theoretical values of coefficients of cotton fiber strength efficiency in the bundle are compared with the experimental values obtained in our earlier work, and a satisfactory agreement is reached.
Twist in the Spinning of a Composite Yarn
Authors: Wu Wen-Yean , Lee Jiunn-Yih
Published: March 2008

We describe the effects of yarn twist on the structure, properties, and production of a T/C composite yarn. The results show that yarn twist in the special structure of a composite yarn is very critical, and good properties of 19.7 tex T/C composite yam such as high skein strength, good abrasion resistance, and low irregularity and imper fection index are retained when using a low twist of about 650 TPM(TM = 3.0). In addition, when the spread width of polyester multifilament is about 8-10 mm, low twist is good for producing normal torqued composite yams, and medium twist is enough to produce high torqued yams. Hence, there is an economic advantage of an increase of about 75% in production when using medium twist 863 TPM(TM = 4.0) to produce a high torqued composite yarn, which is able to take the place of traditional highly twisted, cotton-rich spun yarns.
A Technical Approach to Characterizing Perceived Walking Comfort of Carpet
Authors: Norton Michael A. , Fiest Jack R. , Orofino Thomas A.
Published: March 2008

A long-term, comprehensive investigation of carpet comfort is described, and its relationship to measured maximum decelerations recorded by a free-fall missile in strument. Comfort is measured by collecting and averaging scores provided by test panels of 25-51 pedestrians. Maximum decelerations are measured with an impact instrument specially modified for this application. Both comfort and impact data are collected as functions of pedestrian traffic, extending to several hundred thousand passages. The results are for the most part quite consistent and permit comfort ranking of five carpets with attached polyurethane cushions and one noncushion control, as well as the establishment of a preliminary correlation between subjective comfort and maximum decelerations obtained with the impact instrument. Relationships of the latter sort may provide a convenient means for rating and tracking the decline in walking comfort of floor covering systems.
Effect of Brominated Flame Retardants on the Properties of Acrylonitrile /Vinyl Acetate Copolymer Fibers
Authors: Shen Chou  , Wu Chi-Jen
Published: March 2008

Two brominated flame-retardant additives, Great Lakes CD-75P (hexabro-mocyc lododecane) and Great Lakes PDBS (a polymer of dibromostyrene ), are introduced into acrylonitrile/vinyl acetate (AN/VA) fibers, and their effects on the fibers' thermal and mechanical properties, morphology, and flammability are investigated. Because the additives influence the viscosity of AN/ VA solution dope, the influence of spinneret diameter on spinning the modified AN/VA fibers is also studied. The results show that the both additives can reduce flammability with little effect on tensile strength but large effect on the breaking elongation.
Determining the Heat-Set Temperature for Poly(ethylene Terephthalate) Carpet Yarn with Near-Infrared Reflectance Spectroscopy
Authors: Dorrity J.L. , Kumar A. , Tincher W.C.
Published: March 2008

Near infrared reflectance spectroscopy can be used effectively to predict the heat- set temperature of poly(ethylene terephthalate) carpet yams in the Suessen process with customized calibration. Reflectance at three wavelengths used with a linear regression model is sufficient to predict the desired property (heat-set temperature) accurately. The coefficients of fit found in these sets are approximately 0.978. The justification for the wavelengths selected is explained on the basis of previous work and the experimental data.
Torsional Vibrations of the Roller Card Doffing Comb
Authors: Stadnicki Jacek , Wojciech Stanislaw
Published: March 2008

This paper presents the concept of a doffing comb device in a roller card based on the action of the comb shaft within the resonance area. The analysis of the vibrations of the shaft and the method for calculating its construction data have been elaborated. The rigid finite element method has been used to analyze the vibration, and the op timization method used to calculate its construction data, while its frequency of motion has been assumed. Results of the calculations are shown in a numerical example.
A Study of Fabric Deformation Using Nonlinear Finite Elements
Authors: Gan L. , Ly N.G. , Steven G.P.
Published: March 2008

Fabric deformation characterized by large displacements and rotations but small strains is analyzed using a geometric nonlinear finite element method. The fabrics are modeled by shell/plate elements. Special considerations for applying the finite element method to fabric analysis are discussed and several examples of fabric deformation presented. The results from the finite element model are compared with experimental data and are in good agreement.
Fourier Transform Analysis of Plain Weave Fabric Appearance
Authors: Hosseini Ravandi S.A. , Toriumi K.
Published: March 2008

Protruding yarns influence a fabric's properties and its end use. This paper discusses a new approach to measuring fabric appearance objectively using image processing techniques by Fourier transform analysis. Characteristics of the fabric surface such as directionality, density of yarns protruding from the fabric body, and periodicity of weft and warp yams (yarn spacing) for plain-weave cotton fabric are discussed. The protruding yarn density obtained in this study correlates with those from previous work by spectral analysis of dynamic friction in the fabric surface. This new approach is regarded as a useful method for estimating protruding yam density on fabric surfaces. Through the angular Fourier power spectrum, changes in protruding yarns due to wear are evaluated for yarns spun by different systems such as air-jet, core-spun, open- end, carded, and combed.
Image Analysis of Mispicks in Woven Fabric
Authors: Jasper Warren J. , Potlapalli Harsh
Published: March 2008

Images of a woven fabric with missing picks are digitized, and three different image analysis techniques are compared: the Sobel edge operator, the fast Fourier transform, and the discrete wavelet transform. The wavelet transform, used as a multi-resolution spectral filter, is able to give both spectral and frequency information about a fabric. For the samples tested, the wavelet transform can characterize defects due to missing picks and ends faster and more accurately than the other methods.
Asymptotic Approximations Used in Probabilistic Failure Modeling of Woven Fiber Networks
Authors: Laumakis P.J. , Harlow D.G.
Published: March 2008

Approximate numerical results for the strength distributions of large woven fiber networks are given. The system under consideration consists of fibers arranged in a mutually orthogonal, simple weave pattern. The goal is to estimate the cumulative distribution function for failure of the network as a function of the fiber properties and the failure mechanism. Based on a two-dimensional load sharing model developed earlier and appropriate asymptotic theory, we have constructed conservative upper bound approximations for arbitrarily large networks. Additionally, we have introduced a translation ratio that may be used to relate the lower tail behavior of diverse networks experiencing different biaxial loading conditions.
Analysis of Beat-up Force During Weaving
Authors: Shih Yangping , Mohamed Mansour H. , Bullerwell Arthur C. , Dao Dekun
Published: March 2008

Instrumentation used by Bullerwell and Mohamed has been employed to measure the beat-up force on the Müller CKM 1 / 220 needle loom. An additional measuring system using strain gauges verifies the accuracy of the load washer. Both systems show close agreement in measuring beat-up force. The effects of different weaving parameters on beat-up force are also investigated. Experimental results reveal that when the har nesses are level, beat-up force shows a linear relationship with warp tension and with filling linear density, but an inverse relationship with pick spacing. Early shed timing causes an increase in beat-up force. An earlier theoretical model for the beat-up dy namics is verified. Both theoretical and experimental results show good agreement in relation to warp tension, pick spacing, shed timing, and loom speed.
Surface Attrition of Worsted Fabrics
Authors: Amirbayat J. , Bozzalta G.
Published: March 2008

This paper describes the effects of wear on the geometric roughness and luster of ten worsted fabrics. It goes further to examine how the changes in surface properties affect the subjective evaluation of fabric appearance according to a panel of assessors.
Uniformity and Softness of Kenaf Fibers for Textile Products
Authors: Ramaswamy Gita N. , Craft Stephanie , Wartelle Linda
Published: March 2008

To incorporate kenaf fibers into textiles, it is important to establish uniformity of fibers extracted from the base to the tip of the plant. Bast fiber quality depends on both physical (crystallinity, crystallite size, and orientation) and chemical (lignin, gum, and hemicellulose) properties. Therefore, the first objective is to determine fiber uniformity, evaluating the effect of processing on tenacity, elongation, crystallinity, crystallite size, and chemical composition of fibers extracted from base to tip of the stalk. Second, to make fibers spinnable, the effect of various softeners is evaluated. Decorticated kenaf stems (variety E41) have been retted chemically and bacterially to extract fibers. Fiber bundle strength ranges from 22-30 g/tex. Gum content decreases from 20-10% with the initial chemical processing; later degumming does not reduce gum levels. Initial gum removal increases crystallinity by 3-5% and crystallite size by 20-25%. Physical and chemical properties of kenaf fibers are uniform along the whole length of the native stalks. Alkali treatment with 1% NaOH is not sufficient to impart noticeable stretch. Enzyme and degumming treatments weaken the fibers significantly (30-45%). The commercial softener makes fibers too sticky, and they stick to the carding equipment. Bending rigidity and hysteresis (recovery after repeated bending) do not significantly improve for the softened fibers. Degummed fibers are the strongest. most pliable, with least hysteresis and lowest residual gum content, and are spinnable.
Wetting, Pore Structure, and Liquid Retention of Hydrolyzed Polyester Fabrics
Authors: Hsieh Y.-L. , Miller A. , Thompson J.
Published: March 2008

This study investigates the contributions of surface wetting and pore structure to liquid retention of fibrous materials using regular and microdenier poly(ethylene te rephthalate) (PET) fabrics as the porous media. Varying surface wetting contact angles and pore structures are produced by hydrolysis of these PET fabrics using aqueous sodium hydroxide. Increasing levels of weight loss, porosity, and thickness reduction are observed with increasing hydrolysis temperatures (3N NaOH for 2 hours). The effects of hydrolysis temperature on wetting and pore structure are different for the two PET fabrics. Varying lengths of hydrolysis time (3N NaOH at 55°C) also impose different effects on wetting and the pore structure of the microdenier fabric. With considerably varied wetting contact angles and pore structure, water retention of all PET fabrics is inversely related to water wetting contact angles. Data on hydrolysis of regular and microdenier PET fabrics show that improved water wettability plays a primary role in increasing water retention of these hydrophobic fabrics. Pore size distribution and pore connectivities can be limiting factors in liquid retention of hy drolyzed PET fabrics with modified wetting properties and porosity.
Water Vapor Transfer Through a Hydrophilic Film at Subzero Temperatures
Authors: Osczevski R.J.
Published: March 2008

The water vapor diffusion resistance of the hydrophilic component of Gore-Tex™ II is measured at temperatures down to -24°C. The experiment is designed to simulate diffusion of water vapor through a clothing shell from a coating of ice on its inner surface. The permeability of the samples decreases exponentially with decreasing tem perature; this variation is a combined effect of temperature and relative humidity. At subzero temperatures, water vapor transfer through this material is only a few percent of its room temperature value. Other hydrophilic films used in outdoor clothing are likely to be similarly affected.
An AFIS Parameter for Correcting Mass Measures on the Spinlab HVI
Authors: Krowicki R.S. , Hinojosa O. , Thibodeaux D.P. , Duckett K.E.
Published: March 2008

The radial cross-sectional area measured by the AFIS is used to provide a correction to the diverse slopes of the relationship between the mass and the natural logarithm of the ratio of the incident light to the light attenuated by cotton fibers. The correction appears to be comparable to that obtained from Arealometer data. Comparisons with Arealometer cross sections indicate an R2 of at least 0.97. This measurement, obtained more rapidly using the AFIS, may be used as a mass correction to determine strength on the Spinlab high volume instrument.
Morphology of Cloth Surfaces of Pantyhose in Real Contact with a Rigid Plate
Authors: Morooka Hideo , Seto Tomoko , Morooka Harumi
Published: March 2008

The touch of pantyhose on skin is affected by the morphology of the hose surface in real contact with the skin, and the morphology differs with different kinds of hose. This study clarifies peculiar differences in the morphology of the real contact of cloth surfaces of different hose types, using a slide as a rigid plate. The morphology of real contact between the surface of hose leg parts and a slide to which candle soot was applied beforehand is examined. Black spots of soot transferred to the hose surface after contact between the slide and the cloth are regarded as being in real contact, and the effects of contact pressure and elongation of hose on real contact are examined. The study investigates six kinds of hose, including support hose, sheers, and wooly hose, all with different real contact results.
Effect of Nozzle Geometry on Air-Jet Texturing Performance
Authors: Bilgin S. , Versteeg H.K. , Acar M.
Published: March 2008

This paper systematically investigates the effect of a number of geometric parameters on the texturing performance of air-jet texturing nozzles. In order to facilitate the research, an air-jet texturing nozzle with a rectangular cross section has been developed. The texturing performance of the nozzles is assessed by means of process observations and on-line measurement of stabilizing zone tension, and also by measuring the in creased linear density of the yams on textured yarn samples. Furthermore, instability, elongation at break, and tenacity are measured, and texturing quality is judged by visual inspections and examination of scanning electron microscopy images of the textured yarns. Tension in the stabilizing zone, increase in linear density, and to a somewhat lesser extent instability are reliable measures of texturing quality. The best texturing comes from nozzles with a slightly diverging main channel and a single air inlet hole located far from the nozzle exit. A curved diverging exit profile is essential for successful texturing. The results of the tests to determine the effect of air inlet angk are inconclusive and require further investigation.
Effect of Dyes on the Tensile Properties of Colored Poly(ethylene Terephthalate) Film
Authors: Muraoka Yoichiro , Ito Hiraku , Fujiwara Tomoko , Nagata Minoru , Maekawa Teruhiko
Published: March 2008

The effect of dye / substrate interaction on the tensile properties of colored poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) film has been examined. The PET is colored with anthracene (AC) and its hydroxyl derivatives ( group I dyes) as well as with anthra quinone (AQ) and its hydroxyl derivatives ( group II dyes). The offset yield stress of PET colored with anthrarobin (group IB) and with 2,6-dihydroxyanthraquinone (group II H) increases respectively by 16 and 12 MPa more than the control. After annealing, the values increase further by 7 and 5 MPa, respectively. This reinforcing effect is thought to arise from the formation of hydrogen bondings between dye and substrate, while 1-hydroxyanthraquinone (group II E) has a plasticizing effect. Dye H has a slower stress-relaxation rate than the control, whereas dye E has a faster rate. As the dye concentration in the films increases, the melting points ( Tm) of melt-quenched dye/PET mixed systems are depressed. The interaction parameter between dye and substrate X1 is obtained using Flory's equation, which shows Tm depression of the systems. The values of X1 for AC and AQ are approximately zero, but other dyes have positive values. These results suggest that most of dye molecules aggregate in PET because the affinity of dyes for the substrate is inadequate. However, the values depend somewhat on the strength of the dye/substrate interaction.
Carding of Tender Wool
Authors: Burling-Claridge G. Robert
Published: March 2008

This is the second of two papers dealing with a new conceptual model of fiber breakage in carding. Part II deals with the development of a computer simulation based on the theoretical model postulated in Part I. Some remaining fundamental unknowns are identified and left as operator choices at this stage of the model. The model shows good agreement between predicted and measured fiber length distribu tions. Not only will this model be useful as a predictive tool (predicting length distri butions from measured fiber properties), but we will also be able to investigate possible consequences of altering fiber properties and carding parameters for the resultant carded fiber length distributions.
Thermoanalytical Study of Durable Press Reactant Levels on Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Trask-Morrell Brenda J. , Andrews B.A. Kottes , Vinyard Bryan T.
Published: March 2008

Cotton printcloth has been treated with five low- and nonformaldehyde finishes at multiple treatment levels. In Part I, two polycarboxylic acids, butanetetracarboxylic and citric, catalyzed with sodium hypophosphite produced the nonformaldehyde fabric finishes. Three formaldehyde-based finishes have been produced with 1,3-dimethylol- 4,5-dihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) catalyzed with magnesium chloride / citric acid and are the subject of Part II. Differential scanning calorimetric and thermogravimetric analyses are performed and the results compared with those of untreated and treated controls. Thermal parameters and various parameter ratios are analyzed for progressive changes as agent / catalyst levels increase. Thermal profiles of catalyst controls indicate that the catalyst is a substantial contributor to thermal parameters. We can distinguish between the low and nonformaldehyde DP finishes, between the three DMDHEU-based finishes, and between the four finish levels. Finish level is the most difficult. Three- dimensional comparison graphs of three parameters chosen by means of stepwise discriminate analyses allow finish level assessments to within 2%. The preponderance of evidence after parameter-by-parameter comparisons correctly assigns finish level. A current goal of our research is to identify unknown durable press finishes on cotton fabrics using only thermal analytical techniques. Quality control applications relative to finish and finish level are clearly possible at this time. This study has brought us much closer to realizing our primary goal of finish identification using only ther moanalytical procedures.
UV Stabilization of PET Fibers: Microscopy Study
Authors: Ruetsch S.B. , Huang X.X. , Salem D.R. , Weigmann H.-D.
Published: March 2008

Ultraviolet microspectrophotometry is used to monitor the radial diffusion of three uv stabilizers in high molecular weight PET fibers. Under identical application con ditions, the benzotriazole and benzotriazine derivative stabilizers show peripheral penetration only, whereas the benzophenone derivative stabilizer diffuses throughout the fiber cross section. Peripheral penetration of the benzotriazole and benzotriazine derivatives does not prevent polymer photodegradation in the unprotected interior, whereas all regions of the fiber are protected by the more uniformly distributed ben zophenone stabilizer. Heavy peripheral deposition of the benzotriazole stabilizer pre vents these highly protected regions from polymer photodegradation.
Modifying the Mechanical Properties of Ramie and Its Blends
Authors: Cheng K.P.S. , How Y.L.
Published: March 2008

Compared with other natural cellulose fibers, ramie's handle is harsh and rigid and its elastic recovery is poor. Ramie's undesirable properties affect its performance and comfort during wear. A considerable amount of work has been done at our Institute to ameliorate the undesirable properties of ramie and ramie-blended products by mod ifying the chemical structure and surface properties.
SEM, EDS, and FTIR Examination of Archaeological Mineralized Plant Fibers
Authors: Chen H.L. , Jakes K.A. , Foreman D.W.
Published: March 2008

The chemical and p ysical structures of archaeological mineralized plant fibers are studied using energy x-ray dispersive spectroscopy (EDS), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and FTIR microspectrometry, and compared with two contemporary bast fibers. The outer surfaces of the fibers and the inner surfaces of the lumens are heavily en crusted with copper. Fresh-fractured cross sections of the mineralized fibers display small bead-like copper inclusions embedded within the fiber structure. In comparison with modern bast fibers, the mineralized fibers display an absence of hemicellulosic absorption bands (1740 cm-1), greater intensity, and sharper and well-defined indi vidual absorption bands in the 1200-1500 cm-1 region rather than a broad overlap of absorption found in the modern fibers. The mineralized fibers also display a lower crystallinity ratio ( 1372/2900 cm-1) than those of their counterparts.
Ultimate Mechanical Properties of Basalt Filaments
Authors: Militky Jiri , Kovacic Vladimir
Published: March 2008

Basic characteristics of basalt filaments are described. The main aim of this study is to explore tensile strength distribution based on experimental data. To select the appropriate failure risk function, the maximum likelihood method and methods based on order statistics are used. The use of basalt filaments in sewing thread constructions is also discussed.
Biodegradable and Tensile Properties of Cotton/Cellulose Acetate Nonwovens
Authors: Suh Hageun , Duckett Kermit , Bhat Gajanan
Published: March 2008

A possible candidate as an environmentally friendly nonwoven fabric is one that can be formed from the thermal calendering of a cotton/cellulose acetate blend. Our results focus on biodegradable properties of the fibers as well as tensile properties of the fabric. Cotton, which is a comfortable, absorbent, biodegradable fiber, is the base fiber in the nonwovens. Cellulose acetate, which is a thermoplastic, hydrophilic, mod ified cellulosic fiber, is used for the binder fiber. We examine the biodegradability of cellulose acetate, cotton, and these fibers in the blend using an ASTM standard pro cedure in which the amount of CO 2 evolved from the decomposition of cellulose acetate and cotton fibers due to microbial activity is monitored. Increased biodegra dation rates in fiber blends are attributed to the synergistic effects of multi-enzyme systems. Opening, blending, carding, and thermal calendering processes are used to fabricate the nonwovens. Pretreatment with solvent vapors is introduced to modify the softening temperatures of the cellulose acetate and to lower the calendering tem peratures. The success of this procedure is demonstrated in enhanced tensile strength of the nonwoven. In addition, modifying tensile properties with solvent vapor pre treatment shows how enhanced strength can be obtained with lower calendering tem peratures.
A Knowledge-Based System for Spinning Management
Authors: Vasconcelos Rosa Maria
Published: March 2008

This paper describes the development of a knowledge-based system to support and improve the spinning process. It is divided in three parts. The first part describes a statistical study using sixteen raw cottons and three kinds of yarn. A set of mathematical models describes the relationships between cotton fiber and yam properties. Eighteen different models have been identified according to different control processes (HVI motion control and Spinlab and individual instruments) and different production processes (ring and rotor spinning, OE RU 14 Spincomat and Autocoro 117). The second part details the implementation of the knowledge-based system using the pro gramming languages PROLOG and C. The knowledge base uses a framework shell (flex or forward logical expert systems) that interfaces with PROLOG. This prototype can be used either to predict the characteristics of the yam according to those of the available raw materials, or to select the raw materials adequate to produce yarn with specific characteristics. The last section presents some conclusions of the work.
Performance Evaluation of Nonwoven Geotextiles in Soil-Fabric Interaction
Authors: Honglian Zhai  , Mallick Sumita Basu , Elton David , Adanur Sabit
Published: March 2008

A laboratory research program was undertaken to determine the influence of fabric mass and normal pressure on the stress-strain characteristics of a geotextile-soil inter face. Pullout tests were done in a large pullout box using three needlepunched non woven geotextiles with the same apparent opening sizes and different mass/unit areas. A dry medium sand was the cover material. Effects of mass/unit area of the fabric and normal pressure on pullout test results were analyzed in terms of ultimate pullout load and strain at different points on the geotextile specimens. Pullout tests were conducted at 7, 14, and 21 kPa normal pressures and at a constant displacement rate of 20 mm/min. Pullout resistance decreased with increased gootextile mass / unit area due to extensive necking of the geotextiles. Pullout resistance also increased with increasing normal pressure. Effective embedment length was determined at each normal pressure level based on the strain developed along the length of the geotextiles.
Sewing Performance of Cotton/ Lycra Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Zeto W.Y. , Dhingra R.C. , Lau K.P. , Tam H.
Published: March 2008

This paper describes a computer-based system installed on industrial lockstitch and overlock stitch sewing machines. The system uses commercial hardware and developed software to acquire and analyze the collected signals of needle thread tension, presser foot displacement, presser foot pressure, and needle penetration/withdrawal forces. The effects of sewing speed, needle size, and the number of plies of a fabric sewn together on variations in measured needle penetration and withdrawal forces are in vestigated.
Effects of Agitation and Endoglucanase Pretreatment on the Hydrolysis of Cotton Fabrics by a Total Cellulase
Authors: Cavaco-Paulo Artur , Almeida Luis , Bishop David
Published: March 2008

We have attempted to clarify the effects of low and high levels of mechanical agitation on the cellulolytic activity of a pure endoglucanase ( EG ) and a total cellulase mixture (TC) on scoured and bleached cotton fabric, along with the effect of EG pretreatment on subsequent treatments with TC. Methods used to follow the progress of fabric treatments include weight loss, breaking load loss, bending hysteresis, and the pro duction of soluble reducing sugars and reducing end groups in the fibers. The results show that agitation rate affects the mechanism of cellulolytic attack, and that this has implications for delivering desired finishing effects.
Fluid Flow Through Basic Weaves of Monofilament Filter Cloth
Authors: Lu Wei-Ming , Tung Kuo-Lun , Hwang Kuo-Jen
Published: March 2008

The effects of woven structures on fluid flow through basic weaves of monofilament filter cloths are studied numerically using the fluid-flow software FLUENT. The flow pattern and resistance to flow in the interstices are obtained as results of the numerical solution. The results show that the construction of the fabric pores has a significant influence on flow pattern in the interstices and downstream. Plain weave gives the highest fluid flow resistance, while satin weave has the lowest with the same thread count.
Tension Measurements in Weaving of Singles Worsted Wool Yarns
Authors: Blanchonette Ian
Published: March 2008

The variation of tension in weaving 25 tex singles worsted wool yarns is investigated using a commercial on-line tension measuring device. The maximum rate of tension change in warp yarns is 35 to 45 N/s (at beat-up) and in weft yarns 60 to 1000 N/s (depending on the system of weft insertion). Weft yarn failure rates are predicted from measured weft tensions and Uster Tensojet results. Clinging of warp yarns is shown to increase the average tension by up to 20% for a plain weave.