bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
EZH2 Is Required for Breast and Pancreatic Cancer Stem Cell Maintenance and Can Be Used as a Functional Cancer Stem Cell Reporter
Authors: van Vlerken Lilian E. , Kiefer Christine M. , Morehouse Chris , Li Ying , Groves Chris , Wilson Susan D. , Yao Yihong , Hollingsworth Robert E. , Hurt Elaine M.
Published: December 2012

Although cancer is largely seen as a disease stemming from genetic mutations, evidence has implicated epigenetic regulation of gene expression as a driving force for tumorigenesis. Epigenetic regulation by histone modification, specifically through polycomb group (PcG) proteins such as EZH2 and BMI-1, is a major driver in stem cell biology and is found to be correlated with poor prognosis in many tumor types. This suggests a role for PcG proteins in cancer stem cells (CSCs). We hypothesized that epigenetic modification by EZH2, specifically, helps maintain the CSC phenotype and that in turn this epigenetic modifier can be used as a reporter for CSC activity in an in vitro high-throughput screening assay. CSCs isolated from pancreatic and breast cancer lines had elevated EZH2 levels over non-CSCs. Moreover, EZH2 knockdown by RNA interference significantly reduced the frequency of CSCs in all models tested, confirming the role of EZH2 in maintenance of the CSC population. Interestingly, genes affected by EZH2 loss, and therefore CSC loss, were inversely correlated with genes identified by CSC enrichment, further supporting the function of EZH2 CSC regulation. We translated these results into a novel assay whereby elevated EZH2 staining was used as a reporter for CSCs. Data confirmed that this assay could effectively measure changes, both inhibition and enrichment, in the CSC population, providing a novel approach to look at CSC activity. This assay provides a unique, rapid way to facilitate CSC screening across several tumor types to aid in further CSC-related research.
A Review on EZH2 and its Epigenetic Association with Breast Cancer
Authors: Sandip K. Mishra  , K. Kanchan  , Dharmendra K. Bhargava
Published: December 2012

Enhancer of zeste homolog2 (EZH2), first identified as homolog of the Drosophila enhancer of zeste gene, is histone H3 lysine methyltransferase (H3K27me3), a component of polycomb group proteins (PRC2) that represses the gene expression by modifying the histones epigenetically, thereby silencing developmental regulatory elements in stem as well as cancer cells leading to repression of early differentiation marker genes. Although the mechanistic approach of involving EZH2 to cancer progression has not yet been clearly deciphered, its invasiveness and metastatic potential has been revealed by significant elevation of its expression in normal breast cancer cells after commencement of which a pre-cancerous state was found in morphologically normal breast cancer cells. The tissue microarray analysis of breast carcinomas has shown that EZH2 to be intimately associated with markers of tumor cell proliferation as well as with aggressive diseases. Till now, no demethylating agents have been recommended for treatment of patients, but an in-vitro study using 3-deazaneplanocin, which reduces histone modifications through methylation by reducing the levels of EZH2, has shown a significant reduction in cell proliferation in breast cancer cells. This further signifies the role of EZH2 as a transcriptional repressor. By analyzing methylation profiles of different subtypes of breast cancers like basal-like, luminal A & B, roles of EZH2 have been established in the development of breast cancers. Crosstalk of EZH2 with other silencing/regulating factors like histone deacetylases and miRNAs, have to be considered for evaluating for progression of cell proliferation in different cancer cells including breast cancer.
Biological Significance of the Proteasome Subunit LMP2/b1i as a Tumor Suppressor in Human Uterine Leiomyosarcoma
Authors: Takuma Hayashi  , Akiko Horiuchi  , Kenji Sano  , Gal Gur  , Hiroyuki Aburatani  , Osamu Ishiko  , Nobuo Yaegashi  , Tanri Shiozawa  , Yae Kanai  , Dorit Zharhary  , Susumu Tonegawa  , Ikuo Konishi
Published: December 2012

Uterine leiomyosarcoma (Ut-LMS) develops more often in the muscle tissue layer of the uterine body than in the uterine cervix. The development of gynecologic tumors is often correlated with female hormone secretion; however, the development of Ut-LMS is not substantially correlated with hormonal conditions, and the risk factors are not yet known. Importantly, a diagnostic-biomarker which distinguishes malignant Ut-LMS from other uterine mesenchymal tumors including leiomyoma (LMA) is yet to be established. Accordingly, it is necessary to analyze risk factors associated with Ut-LMS, to establish a clinical treatment method. Proteasome subunit, low-molecular mass polypeptide(LMP2)/b1i-deficient mice spontaneously develop Ut-LMS, with a disease prevalence of ~40% by 14 months of age. Recent experiments with human and mouse uterine tissues revealed defective LMP2/b1i expression in human Ut-LMS that was traced to the interferon (IFN)-g pathway and a specific effect of Janus kinase (JAK)-1 somatic mutations on LMP2/b1i transcriptional activation. Furthermore, analysis of a human Ut-LMS cell line clarified the biological significance of LMP2/b1i in malignant myometrium transformation and the cell cycle, thus implicating LMP2/b1i as an anti-tumorigenic candidate. Therefore, defective-LMP2/b1i expression may be a risk factor for human Ut-LMS. LMP2/b1i is a potential diagnostic-biomarker for Ut-LMS, and may be a targeted-molecule for a new clinical therapeutic approach.
Inhibitors of Apoptosis Proteins (IAPs): Clinical Significance in Cancer Treatment Research
Authors: Kunal M. Tewari  , Suneela S. Dhaneshwar
Published: December 2012

Apoptosis is a process, which involves a sequence of cellular changes, which ultimately lead to cell death. This programmed cell death is a normal phenomenon required for growth of an organism. Inhibition of apoptosis can result in a number of cancers, inflammatory and autoimmune diseases and viral infections. Inhibitors of apoptosis proteins (IAPs) are a family of structurally and functionally related proteins, which play a crucial role in apoptosis (programmed cell death), proliferation and angiogenesis. Till date 8 IAPs have been identified (Survivin, XIAP, Livin, cellular IAP 1 and 2, ILP-2, NAIP and BRUCE/Apollon). The current review discusses individual protein in details with respect to its structural features, functions and clinical significance. These proteins; especially survivin, XIAP and Livin have been found to express in wide range of malignancies and hence taken as a target of interest by various research groups. The review also highlights the various Phase- 1 and 2 studies of new therapeutic agents that are being developed either as a monotherapy or in combination with existent drugs, which target these IAPs.
STUDY ON DRIFT BEHAVIOR OF CONTAINER ON APRON DUE TO TSUNAMI-INDUCED INCOMING AND RETURN FLOW
Authors: Nakamura Tomoaki , Mizutani Norimi , Wakamatsu Yasuhiro
Published: December 2012

The drift behavior of a shipping container on an apron resulting from a tsunami-induced incoming flow and subsequent return flow is investigated using hydraulic experiments and numerical simulations. Experimental and numerical results show that the container initially set parallel to a quay wall can fall into the sea when the relative overflow height of an incident tsunami is large regardless of the relative initial position of the container. This suggests that it is not always effective to shelter containers near the seawall before large tsunamis. In addition, it is not evident that the container initially set perpendicular to the quay wall drifts seaward, suggesting that an effective countermeasure would be to store containers on the apron in the cross-shore direction.
BARRED-BEACH MORPHOLOGICAL CONTROL ON INFRAGRAVITY MOTION
Authors: Almar Rafael , Cienfuegos Rodrigo , Gonzalez Eduardo , Catalán Patricio , Michallet Hervé , Bonneton Philippe , Castelle Bruno , Suarez Leandro
Published: December 2012

A conceptual analysis of the coupling between bars and infragravity waves is performed combining laboratory experiments and numerical modeling. Experiments are carried out in a wave flume with a barred profile. The Boussinesq fully-nonlinear model SERR1D is validated with the laboratory data and a sensitivity analysis is performed next to study the influence on the infragravity wave dynamics of bar amplitude and location, and swash zone slope. A novel technique of incident and reflected motions separation that conserves temporal characteristics is applied. We observe that changing bar characteristics induces substantial variations in trapped energy. Interestingly, a modification of swash zone slope has a large influence on the reflected component, controlling amplitude and phase time-lag, and consequently on the resonant pattern. Variations of trapped infragravity energy induced by changes of swash zone slope reach 25 %. These changes in infragravity pattern consequently affect short-wave dynamics by modifying the breakpoint location and the breaking intensity. Our conceptual investigation suggests the existence of a morphological feedback through the action of evolving morphology on infragravity structures which modulates the action of short-waves on the morphology itself.
SIMULATION OF INUNDATION CAUSED BY TSUNAMI VIA UNDERGROUND CHANNELS
Authors: Ito Kazunori , Oda Yukinobu , Furuta Atsushi , Takayama Yuriko
Published: December 2012

Appropriate seawalls can protect landside from tsunami inundation. But, in a case that a coastal industrial facility has an underground water channel, even if a seawall works properly against tsunami attack, sea water comes into landside via the channel. So, this study focused on tsunami inundation via an underground channel caused by tsunami. Numerical simulation methods were discussed and verified by using physical model test results.
ANALYSIS OF CURRENT PATTERNS IN COASTAL AREAS USING X-BAND
Authors: Swinkels Cilia , Peters Herman , Van Heesen Jos
Published: December 2012

The Seadarq software from Nortek is designed to derive wave, water depth and current information from ordinary navigation radar images. This is done by analysis of the wave propagation patterns using an inverse dispersion fitting technique. The remotely sensed data provides the unique opportunity to assess temporal and spatial propagation patterns
of waves and currents over a significant stretch of water overlooked by a radar station. This exploratory study shows that radar data can provide very valuable insight in otherwise seldom disclosed current patterns. The spatial and temporal information of the radar data may allow us to calibrate our numerical model not only for water levels but now also for
details in the currents patterns. Moreover, the radar data has improved the understanding of the hydrodynamics in a complex tidal inlet and around a mega-nourishment.
PREDICTION OF MAXIMUM POSSIBLE STORM SURGES IN ISE BAY UNDER A FUTURE CLIMATE
Authors: Murakami Tomokazu , Yoshino Jun , Yasuda Takashi
Published: December 2012

This study aims at investigating space and time-distributions of possible maximum storm surges in Ise Bay caused by potential typhoons based on the SRES A1B scenario. Initial fields of 50 potential typhoons were provided by using potential vorticity bogussing scheme of a tropical cyclone. Then, the distributions over the whole area of Ise Bay under the 50 initial fields were predicted by using an atmosphere-ocean-wave coupled model. The results show that all storm tides in Nagoya Port caused by the 50 potential typhoons exceed 3.5 m which is the largest storm tide ever recorded in Japan and that its maximum value reaches 6.9 m.
IMPROVEMENT OF STORM SURGE SIMULATION UPON PARAMETERIZATIONS OF COUPLED AIR-SEA INTERACTIONS
Authors: Ninomiya Junichi , Mori Nobuhito , Yasuda Tomohiro , Mase Hajime , Kihara Naoto
Published: December 2012

Coupled atmosphere-ocean model has been developed in various organizations. Warner et al. developed fully coupled model, so-called COAWST, using the atmosphere model WRF, the ocean model ROMS and the wave model SWAN. Though there are several studies with coupled model, there is few research on tropical cyclone event analyzing the changes in ocean current and water temperature in detail. In this study, a series of numerical simulations was carried out targeting Typhoon Melor (2009), and it is analyzed against to the meteorologic and oceanic field data at Tanabe bay, Wakayama Prefecture in Japan. The results show that the wave energy dissipation by the wave model is effective in the change of ocean current and the thermal feedback by the atmospheric model is effective in the change of water temperature due to the typhoon passage.
MEASUREMENTS OF SURFACE KINEMATICS AND TEMPERATURE IN THE SURF AND SWASH ZONES USING INFRARED IMAGE VELOCIMETRY
Authors: Huang Zhi-Cheng , Hwang Kao-Shu , Lenain Luc , Melville W. Kendall , Hwung Hwung-Hwang
Published: December 2012

High intensity air bubbles generated in the surf zone and the thinning of swash flow make velocity measurements particularly challenging in coastal areas. These facts have led the need for a new measurement technique to quantify the surf and swash flow dynamics. Here, we tested infrared image techniques to measure the surface temperature and then to derive the velocity fields using cross-correlation algorithm for large-scale solitary waves breaking in the surf and swash zones. From the comparison with unspiked electromagnetic current meter (EMCM) data and previous validation, it is suggested that the infrared image velocimetry (IRIV) is satisfactory to quantify the surface turbulent flow in the surf and swash zones. The data obtained in the experiment provides a new description of surface thermal structure and kinematics for solitary breaking waves. Two-dimensional organized streaks of temperature structures are evident on the water surface behind the head of rebounding jet. Wavenumber spectrum analysis shows that the directionality of these thermal signatures evolves with time. Evolution of vorticity on the water surface during the run-up and run-down process of the solitary broken wave is discussed.
THE 2010 CHILEAN AND THE 2011 TOHOKU TSUNAMI WAVES IMPACT TO RIVERS IN THE TOHOKU REGION, JAPAN
Authors: Tanaka Hitoshi , Xuan Tinh Nguyen
Published: December 2012

As a result when tsunami invades into river, it may not only a threat of damages to the banks but also cause the environmental problem such as inundation. Therefore, study of tsunami impacts to rivers becomes more important. The main objectives of this study are to investigate the tsunami wave propagation at different river morphologies based on real time measurements during the 2010 Chilean Tsunami and 2011 Tohoku Tsunami events. The aim is to learn empirically from the last extreme events tsunamis in order to suggest a better solution in terms of river and coastal management in the future. The analyzed results have been shown that the tsunami wave can be affected up to several tens kilometer upstream of a large river and the measured tsunami travel time inside the river is almost similar to the tsunami travel time calculated by using the long wave theory.
ADVANCES IN COASTAL DISASTERS RISK MANAGEMENT - LESSONS FROM THE 2011 TOHOKU TSUNAMI
Authors: Jonkman Sebastiaan , Yasuda Tomohiro , Tsimopoulou V. , Kawai H. , Kato F.
Published: December 2012

The earthquake and tsunami of March 2011 led to death and destruction in coastal areas in Japan. A seminar was held in June 2012 for Japanese and Dutch coastal researchers to discuss lessons for the management of the risks in coastal areas associated with tsunamis, typhoons and storm surges. The seminar has highlighted important practical and theoretical issues in coastal protection, risk and emergency management, and climate change and sea level rise research that are of importance for the Netherlands and Japan and other coastal regions. The performance of the system during historical events gives important lessons for the (re)design of resilient coastal protection systems in the future. It has also been discussed how risk assessments can be utilized to determine how an effective combination of prevention, land use planning and emergency management can be implemented to minimize future risks in the coastal zone.
INCORPORATING A RISK ASSESSMENT PROCEDURE INTO SUBMARINE OUTFALL PROJECTS AND APPLICATION TO PORTUGUESE CASE STUDIES
Authors: Mendonça Ana Santos , Losada M. A. , Solari S. , Neves M. , Reis M.
Published: December 2012

The paper presents a risk assessment methodology for operational limit states of submarine outfall projects that considers: the environmental legislative framework, the climate agents acting on the coastline and prediction of the plume long-term behaviour near the coastline. The probability of operational failure or stoppage is assessed enabling decision on project design alternatives.
STATISTICAL ESTIMATION OF WAVE CLIMATES IN A MONSOON REGION
Authors: Kimura Akira , Ota Takao
Published: December 2012

This paper deals with a statistics of wave climate. NOWPHAS data from 7 observatories along the Sea of Japan coast are investigated. Fourier spectrum of one year time series of significant wave height H_(1â,,3) shows inherent characteristic to the monsoon region. It can be divided into three frequency regions; (A) f
WAVE DYNAMICS AND ITS IMPACT TO WAVE CLIMATE PROJECTION
Authors: Shimura Tomoya , Mori Nobuhito , Yasuda Tomohiro , Mase Hajime
Published: December 2012

Impacts and adaptations of climate change have been studied in various fields. In order to assess the impacts of climate change on coastal areas, it is necessary to evaluate how wave change due to climate changes. Projections of global wave climate have been carried out by some research groups for next IPCC report. Projection of wave climate contains uncertainties, such as scenario uncertainty, GCM uncertainty and wave model uncertainty. Impacts and adaptations of climate change have been studied in various fields. In order to assess the impacts of climate change on coastal areas, it is necessary to evaluate how wave change due to the climate changes. Projections of global wave climate have been carried out by some research groups for next IPCC report. Projection of wave climate contains uncertainties, such as scenario uncertainty, GCM uncertainty and wave model uncertainty. The uncertainties need to be estimated for reliable projections. In this study, wave model uncertainty was evaluated. Global wave hindcasts were conducted using SWAN with four different models of source terms and the impacts of different wave models on global long-term wave statistics were made clear. Furthermore, the global characteristics of differences in long-term wave statistics due to different models were compared with the result of global wave climate projection (Mori et al., 2010). Global long-term wave statistics are varied depending on choice of formula of Sin and Swc rather than that of Snl4. The uncertainty is larger in eastern lower latitude of ocean especially in the Pacific where swells dominate. On the other hand, the uncertainty of future wave climate change due to wave model is negligibly small in higher latitude where wind-waves dominate.
MULTI-MODEL ENSEMBLE PROJECTION OF FUTURE COASTAL CLIMATE CHANGE
Authors: Mori Nobuhito , Shimura Tomoya , Nakajo Sota , Yasuda Tomohiro , Mase Hajime
Published: December 2012

This study analyzes future change of averaged coastal physics such as sea level rises, sea surface winds and ocean wave heights based on the climate data set combining IPCC(2007) results and the latest MRI high-resolution AGCM results. The ocean wave height is statistically projected using an empirical formula with sea surface wind by multi-model ensemble. The ensemble means and their standard deviations of coastal forces are presented for the year 2000 to 2100. The signal of future change of Hs has stripped pattern in latitudinal direction and is clearer in the Southern Hemisphere than the Northern Hemisphere. The ratio of future change of $H_s$ to the present climate is 15% maximumly which is significant change than sea surface pressure and U10.
MOVING GRAVEL BODY METHOD TO CONTROL DOWNCOAST EROSION
Authors: Ishikawa Toshinori , Uda Takaaki , Miyahara Shiho
Published: December 2012

The concept of the moving gravel body (MGB) method, in which topographic changes are controlled by beach nourishment using gravel, was introduced, using the contour-line-change model considering changes in grain size. The model was applied to the Fuji coast, assuming that coarse materials were nourished on a straight coast wherein a predominant longshore sand transport develops. The grain size that is effective for the recovery and maintenance of the shoreline and that does not cause further downcoast erosion was d, which is 5-10 times larger than that of the original sand, d0.
ON THE TWO STEP THRESHOLD SELECTION FOR OVER-THRESHOLD MODELLING
Authors: Bernardara Pietro , Mazas Franck , Weiss Jérôme , Andreewsky Marc , Kergadallan Xavier , Benoît Michel , Hamm Luc
Published: December 2012

In the general framework of over-threshold modelling (OTM) for estimating extreme values of met-ocean variables, such as waves, surges or water levels, the threshold selection logically requires two steps: the physical declustering of time series of the variable in order to obtain samples of independent and identically distributed data then the application of the extreme value theory, which predicts the convergence of the upper part of the sample toward the Generalized Pareto Distribution. These two steps were often merged and confused in the past. A clear framework for distinguishing them is presented here. A review of the methods available in literature to carry out these two steps is given here together with the illustration of two simple and practical examples.
WAVE ATTENUATION MODELLING BY SUBMERGED VEGETATION: ECOLOGICAL AND ENGINEERING ANALYSIS
Authors: Maza Maria , Lara Javier , Ondiviela Barbara , Losada Inigo J.
Published: December 2012

The correct address of wave characteristics in the vicinity of submerged vegetation is crucial to perform an ecological analysis. Although several attempts have been done in the past using an analytical approach or depth averaged models, the rigidity of the assumptions used to solve the physics produced limited application to real cases. The use of a NS model called IH-2VOF is used first to minimize the number of predefined assumptions for wave propagation and the non-linear interactions between waves and plants and second to explore the possibility to improve existing turbulence models to consider wave interaction with vegetation. The IH2-VOF model has been validated using large scale experiments developed by Stratigaki et al. (2011). The model has shown a high degree of accordance between the lab data and the numerical predictions in free surface evolution. Numerical predictions of the velocity field have been compared both over and inside the vegetation showing also a high degree of accordance. Drag coefficients obtained during the model calibration are in accordance with previous studies such as Mendez et al. (1999). The influence of wave height, wave period, water depth and patch density have been studied using additional numerical simulations with irregular waves. Both the wave period and the water depth have been revealed as the most important parameters in the modification of the flow patterns around the patch.
THE MODIFIED COASTAL STORM IMPULSE (COSI) PARAMETER AND QUANTIFICATION OF FRAGILITY CURVES FOR COASTAL DESIGN
Authors: Basco David R. , Mahmoudpour Nader
Published: December 2012

A coastal storm-strength parameter, the Coastal Storm Impulse (COSI) parameter was introduced at the ICCE 2006 (San Diego) and further discussed in the ICCE 2008 (Hamburg) and ICCE 2010 (Shanghai) proceedings. COSI is based on the conservation of linear, horizontal momentum to combine storm surge, wave dynamics, and currents over the storm duration. Both tropical storms (hurricanes) and extra-tropical storms (low-pressure fronts) can produce similar COSI parameters. Analysis of coastal storms over a 10 year period (1994-2003) of measured data at the Corps of Engineers, Field Research Facility (FRF), Duck, NC showed the need to modify the original method to (1) use the mean, nonlinear wave momentum flux, and (2) use only the spikes in storm surge when elevated water levels are above the mean high water level of the tide. This paper presents the full details of how to calculate the modified COSI parameter; the modified results for the 10-yr Duck data set and suggest possible applications to develop fragility curves for coastal engineering design. Clearly, fragility curves are needed to quantify risk and hence resilience in coastal systems design. The intensity of the "load† or "disturbance†, i.e. the severity of the coastal storm must be quantified to develop fragility curves. Excess water levels (storm surge), wave conditions (height, period, direction) and storm duration all contribute to the intensity of a coastal storm. How to combine these three factors has long been a concern of coastal scientists and engineers.
LABORATORY OBSERVATIONS AND NUMERICAL MODELING OF THE EFFECTS OF AN ARRAY OF WAVE ENERGY CONVERTERS
Authors: Porter Aaron K. , Haller Merrick C. , Lenee-Bluhm Pukha
Published: December 2012

This paper investigates the effects of wave energy converters (WECs) on water waves through the analysis of extensive laboratory experiments, as well as subsequent numerical simulations. Data for the analysis was collected during the WEC-Array Experiments performed at the O.H. Hinsdale Wave Research Laboratory at Oregon State University, in collaboration with Columbia Power Technologies, using five 1:33 scale point-absorbing WECs. The observed wave measurement and WEC performance data sets allowed for a direct computation of power removed from the wave field for a large suite of incident wave conditions and WEC array sizes. Using measured power absorption characteristics as a WEC parameterization for SWAN was developed. This parameterization was verified by comparison to the observational data set. Considering the complexity of the problem, the parameterization of WECs by only power absorption is a reasonable predictor of the effect of WECs on the far field.
TIDAL POWER GENERATION IN GAROLIM BAY, KOREA
Authors: Shin Bumshick , Kim Kyu-Han
Published: December 2012

Among the ocean energy, tidal power generation has a great advantage on large development possibilities despite of its huge construction cost and difficulty in finding an applicable location. Furthermore, once tidal power generation is developed, various developmental benefits are expected which are not only producing semi-permanent energy but also gaining a bridge role, tourism resource effects, adjustability of flood inundation inside the bay and other multi development effects(Roger H. Charlier.,2003, John Twidell, 2006). Nevertheless, unfavorable impacts on the bay environmental have also been pointed out. The environmental problems include mud flat extinction and marine eco-system disruption. The participation of local residents is essential to resolve ecological and socioeconomic issues. In this study, the feasibility of tidal power generation is examined by reviewing the hydraulic characteristics of a target area in the Garorim bay on the west coast of Korea.
LARGE SCALE EXPERIMENTS ON FARMS OF HEAVING BUOYS TO INVESTIGATE WAKE DIMENSIONS, NEAR-FIELD AND FAR-FIELD EFFECTS
Authors: Stratigaki Vasiliki , Troch Peter , Stallard Timothy , Kofoed Jens Peter , Benoit Michel , Mattarollo Giovanni , Babarit Aurelien , Forehand David , Folley Matthew
Published: December 2012

The shrinking reserves of fossil fuels in combination with the increasing energy demand have enhanced the interest in renewable energy sources, including wave energy. In order to extract a considerable amount of wave power, large numbers of Wave Energy Converters will have to be arranged in arrays or farms using a particular geometrical layout. The operational behaviour of a single device may have a positive or negative effect on the power absorption of the neighbouring WECs in the farm (near-field effects). Moreover, as a result of the interaction between the WECs within a farm, the overall power absorption and the wave climate in the lee of the WECs is modified, which may influence neighbouring farms, other users in the sea or even the coastline (far-field effects). Several numerical studies on large WEC arrays have already been performed, but large scale experimental studies on near-field and far-field wake effects of large WEC arrays are not available in literature. Within the HYDRALAB IV European programme, the research project WECwakes has been introduced to perform large scale experiments in the Shallow Water Wave Basin of DHI, in Denmark, on large arrays of point absorbers for different layout configurations and inter-WEC spacings. The aim is to validate and further develop the applied numerical methods, as well as to optimize the geometrical layout of WEC arrays for real applications.
OFFSHORE WIND FARM MACRO AND MICRO SITING PROTOCOL APPLICATION TO RHODE ISLAND
Authors: Grilli Annette Renee , Spaulding Malcolm , O'Reilly Christopher , Potty Gopu
Published: December 2012

Since 2008, the Rhode Island (RI) Coastal Resources Management Council has been leading the development of an Ocean Special Area Management Plan (Ocean SAMP), in partnership with the University of Rhode Island, resulting in an extensive multidisciplinary analysis of the Rhode Island offshore environment and its suitability to site offshore wind farms. As part of SAMP, a comprehensive macro-siting optimization tool: the Wind Farm Siting Index (WIFSI), integrating technical, societal, and ecological constraints, was developed within the conceptual framework of ecosystem services. WIFSI uses multivariate statistical analyses (principal component and k-means cluster analyses) to define homogeneous regions, which integrate and balance ecological and societal constraints as part of a Cost/Benefit tool. More recently, a Wind Farm micro-Siting Optimization Tool was developed (WIFSO), which uses a genetic algorithm to derive the optimal layout of a wind farm sited within one of the macro-siting selected regions. In this work, we present an overview of the current state of development of the integrated macro- and micro- siting tools.
A GULF OF MEXICO MARSH RESTORATION AND PROTECTION PROJECT
Authors: Douglass Scott L. , Ferraro Carl , Dixon Caren Reid , Oliver Larry , Pitts Lloyd
Published: December 2012

A $3 million (US $) marsh restoration and protection project was constructed in 2010 along 1.6 km on the northern shore of Mississippi Sound near Bayou LaBatre, Alabama to restore about 10 ha of marsh and protect another 300 ha of an extremely productive natural salt marsh estuary - Little Bay. The project restored an historic marsh peninsula with 100,000 m3 of sand pumped from a nearby dredged material disposal area; extensive vegetation plantings including over 100,000 plants; and an offshore segmented, porous breakwater consisting primarily of individual concrete units called "wave attenuation devices† or WADs. The wave transmission characteristics of these "wave attenuation devices† were measured in original laboratory wave tests for this design. The wave transmission coefficient was found to vary, 0.4
TEMPORAL AND SPATIAL EVOLUTION OF EXTREME EVENTS
Authors: Groeneweg Jacco , Caires Sofia , Roscoe Kathryn
Published: December 2012

In this study two statistical methods for computing time- and space-evolving extreme events are implemented and assessed. The implementation and application of the methods are carried out with a view towards the safety assessment of water defences. With this type of application in mind, the methods are used to produce time- and space-varying extreme wind fields, which are needed to force wave and hydrodynamic models. Furthermore, the results of the two methods are compared and effects of the choice of distribution, threshold and reference location on
the resulting wind fields are assessed. Although the wind fields produced by the methods show more erratic spatial variations, due to the associated uncertainties, than those of the observed wind fields, they seem realistic and can in principle be used to drive wave and hydrodynamic models. However, an assessment of the results of these statistical methods in terms of the underlying physics still needs to be carried out and is part of future work.
MORPHODYNAMIC OF BEACH SCARPS ON A MACROTIDAL COAST DURING EXCEPTIONAL WATER LEVEL EVENTS (NORMANDY, FRANCE)
Authors: Bonte Yoann , Levoy Franck
Published: December 2012

Although there are numerous studies on the morphology and physical processes affecting the dune's scarp and many conceptual models describing beach scarps on microtidal and mesotidal environments (Sunamura, 1985a ; Short,1999), really quantitative informations about the beach scarp formation is lacking, especially along tidal environments where the tide controls the level of wave attack. However, Sherman and Nordstrom(1985) give a qualitative description of beach scarp formations and evolution based on field observations but without data set. The coast of Calvados (Normandy, France) is a fine example of a macrotidal coast, where beach scarps have been often observed. Along macrotidal beaches, the formation of a berm is classically observed during fair weather conditions which contribute to stabilize the coastline. During stormy conditions, the low atmosphere pressure, short waves and onshore winds cause an increase of the water level, which during spring tides, increases the high tide water level time action. Consequently, the natural berm protecting the dune foot, or sometimes a seawall foot, is threatened by erosion and often destroyed. The goal of this study is to quantify the beach scarp destruction (foot and crest scarp retreat speed, eroded volume...) in relation with the hydraulic and morphologic local conditions.
MODEL FOR PREDICTING BEACH CHANGES USING CELLULAR AUTOMATON METHOD
Authors: Endo Masatoshi , Kobayash A. , Uda T. , Serizawa M. , Noshi Y.
Published: December 2012

Sand deposition on the gently-sloping revetment, the slope of which is steeper than the equilibrium slope of sand, is often observed when storm waves ran up the beach. Serizawa et al. (2006) have developed the BG model, in which the cross-shore sand transport depends on the balance between the equilibrium slope of sand and the local slope of the beach, and seaward sand transport will occur when the local slope of the beach or the structure is larger than the equilibrium slope. This implies that shoreward sand transport on the slope steeper than the equilibrium slope of sand cannot be predicted by the BG model. This is because the fundamental equation of the BG model is expressed by the net sand transport defined by the sum of the sand transport under the ongoing and outgoing waves. In this study, sand transport under the ongoing and outgoing waves is independently taken into account, and a new model for predicting beach changes is developed using the cellular automaton method.
BOUSSINESQ TYPE MODELLING OF STORM SURGES
Authors: De BRYE Sébastien , Silva Rodolfo , Mendoza Edgar
Published: December 2012

To get a better understanding of transient stages of storm surges, this work examines the response of a Boussinesq type model to a moving low pressure system forcing, discussing results through numerical simulations in one horizontal dimension.
SUITABILITY INDEX FOR COASTAL ENVIRONMENT RESTORATION IN ENCLOSED BAY
Authors: Horie Takehito , Okada Tomonari , Watanuki Akira
Published: December 2012

HSI (Habitat Suitability Index) models are a numerical index that describes the habitat quality for individual species of aquatic organism. This models are composed of SI (suitability index) models, which show the cause-and-effect relationships between biomass of target species and the variation of individual water environmental factors. Fish are often used as the environmental indicator species of HSI models, because fish are strongly related to marine algae, sea grass, water quality, and so forth, and fish are predator high in the food chain for the aquatic system.

In order to restore the marine environment of Tokyo Bay, in Japan(Fig.1), some SI models have been proposed. However, we have few precision SI models on target fish. Therefore, the objective of this study is to reveal the relationship between seasonal or daily variations of water environment components in Tokyo bay or in offshore sea area of the Pacific coast of Tokyo metro (Fig.1) and the total mass of fish living in Tokyo bay in order to create precision SI models of fish.
MODELLING OF A NEARSHORE PLACED SAND MOUND
Authors: Smith Ernest R. , D'Alessandro Felice , Tomasicchio Giuseppe Roberto , Gailani Joseph Z.
Published: December 2012

Nearshore placement of sand is becoming a more popular option in two related types of coastal engineering projects: beach nourishment and inlet dredging. Placing the sand in the nearshore instead of directly on the beach can reduce the costs of a beach nourishment project (Douglass 1995); furthermore, the environmental impact to the beach and dune ecosystem may be perceived to be less for open-water disposal with subsequent migration than for direct placement on the beach. Nearshore placement of sand is also an option in navigation dredging projects for similar reasons. Several design and planning questions relate to the fate of dredged sand placed in the nearshore. Can we economically use profile nourishment, and what is the certainty that a constructed submerged feature will move onshore or remain in place? And if it will move, what is the rate of its movement? Another question concerns how deep material should be placed. In order to answer these questions, together with physical model experiments, several empirical/numerical models have been developed in the past in the United States as a part of the Corps of Engineers 'Dredging Research Program' (DRP) (Hands 1991, Larson and Kraus 1992).

Hydrodynamic modelling of the nearshore environment has reached a verifiable level of maturity in the last decades as a result of well-defined equations, established numerical solutions and quality laboratory and field data. On the contrary, modelling of sediment transport and beach profile evolution has not yet approached a similar level of accuracy. Most commonly applied models to predict beach profile modifications and to estimate the migration rate of nearshore constructed sand mounds rely on empirical relationships (Douglass 1995). More recently, the numerical model C-SHORE (Kobayashi et al. 2007; Figlus et al. 2011) was developed resulting in simple, practical and accurate code that predicts beach-dune profile evolution over the near-shore region in response to waves, currents and water levels. In the present work, a calibration and verification procedure is considered for the numerical model C-SHORE (Kobayashi et al. 2007) and the empirical model (Douglass 1995).
PROJECT PERFORMANCE AND MONITORING OF A REVETMENT, COCOS BAY, EAST TRINIDAD
Authors: O'Brien-Delpesh Charmaine , Gray-Bernard Candice , Tang-Kai Marisha
Published: December 2012

The eastern shoreline of Trinidad has been suffering extensively from erosion over the years. This coast is exposed to the Atlantic Ocean and is subjected to large swells especially during the North Atlantic winter period, storms and hurricanes. The coastal area of Cocos Bay located on the east coast of Trinidad between the Nariva and Ortoire Rivers has been undergoing severe erosion at a rate of approximately 0.5 m to 1.7 m per year. In 2005, the Ministry of Works and Transport, Drainage Division started the construction of a 2.3 km long rubble revetment (rip rap) which was completed in 2008. The function of the revetment was to control erosion and flooding thereby protecting the Manzanilla-Mayaro Road which is a major artery linking the oil and gas sector as well as several coastal villages. This revetment formed the emergency intervention phase of a three phase solution recommended along the South Cocos Bay. Conforming to the Certificate of Environmental Clearance (CEC), the Ministry of Works and Transport, Drainage Division has been monitoring the possible impacts of the structure on the beach environment from post construction to present and its structural integrity. During the last five years, the monitoring study has revealed that in the vicinity of the revetment, erosion and flooding have been mitigated; however there has been narrowing of the beach even though the gradient has remained the same.

Flanking has also been observed immediately north and south of the revetment. In regards to the structural integrity of the revetment, the armour layer which was constructed using local rock (blue limestone), 200 - 300 kg is showing signs of weathering and shearing. This has resulted in voids in the armour layer which has exposed the filter and underlayers. It is recommended that in order to maintain the functionality and structural integrity over a design life of 25 years, the armour layer be repaired with a suitable material which has historically been sourced externally. The post documents the prevailing wave climate, previous coastal evolution modelling, and the pre and post construction profile records. The shoreline response to the revetment is predicted using GENESIS and compared to the actual response based on an analysis of the beach profile monitoring records are also presented.
MORPHOLOGY CHANGE CAUSED BY THE 2011 GREAT TOHOKU TSUNAMI WAVE - MECHANISM OF RECENT CLOSURE AND BREACHING OF THE NANAKITA RIVER MOUTH
Authors: Nguyen Xuan Tinh , Tanaka Hitoshi , Hirao Ryutaro , Pradjoko Eko , Mano Akira , Udo Keiko
Published: December 2012

The 2011 Great Tohoku Earthquake and Tsunami in March had caused a lot of damages to people and infrastructure in Japan. With a giant tsunami height plus the subsidence due to earthquakes have destroyed most o f the nearshore constructions and coastal zone areas. According to measured data from the survey group (Mori et al. 2011); maximum
tsunami wave height measured at the Nanakita area is about 14m. This Tsunami made the topography of this region changed drastically. Many breaching places occurred along the coast and river mouth. This study will focus on investigating the mechanisms of sediment transport and hydrodynamics leading to the river mouth was closed in about five months after the event and then breached in a different location during the river flood.
EVOLUTION OF LOCAL SCOUR AROUND A COLLARED MONOPILE THROUGH TIDAL CYCLES
Authors: McGovern David J , Ilic Suzana , Folkard Andrew M , McLelland Stuart J , Murphy Brendan J
Published: December 2012

This paper presents the results of an experiment designed to assess the time-development of scour around an offshore wind turbine collared monopile over a number of tidal cycles. One collar shape and location was investigated. The scour developed more slowly and the scour depth was shallower than for the case of a smooth monopile throughout the majority of the first half-cycle. This difference reduced quite rapidly during the second half-cycle and the scour depth at the end of two tidal cycles was essentially the same as for the smooth monopile. The time development of the scour was compared with results from existing empirical models for the time-development of scour under unidirectional flow. As expected, these models give a much smoother evolution of scour and different scour rates than those measured. Time variation in scour depth was better reproduced with a simplified approach for prediction of the time-varying development of scour. This also highlighted a problem with estimation of the time scale for the development of the equilibrium scour depth. Further investigations are needed before this alternative scour protection is completely rejected.
MATERIAL PLACEMENT IN THE NEARSHORE: LABORATORY AND NUMERICAL MODEL INVESTIGATION
Authors: Johnson Bradley D. , Smith Ernest R.
Published: December 2012

Typical practice for a century has been to transport dredged sand to an offshore disposal site in deep water where the sediment is lost from the littoral system. The alternative of nearshore placement can retain the sand, but the fate of the material is poorly understood. A set of laboratory experiments were conducted, using tracer sand, with the intent of quantifying the migration of material with alternative dredged mound placements within the surf zone. Conventional depth-integrated tracer sand transport models can utilize a correction factor or a gradient diffusion mechanism to represent the effects of the depth variation. In the surf zone, however, an analytical correction factor is not available and a gradient diffusion coefficient is arbitrary with no physical basis. An alternative simple advective transport sand model is introduced herein that explicitly predicts both the advection associated with the return current and the wave-related onshore transport. With a simple
framework based on a suspended layer and a bedload layer of arbitrary transport directions, the Taylor dispersion of tracer sand is explicitly computed without any dependence on a diffusion mechanism. Both the modeled and measured results indicate transport directed offshore by the undertow, onshore by the wave asymmetry, and down-drift as forced by the longshore current.
INVESTIGATING THE BEACH PREDICTIONS OF A NEW LONG-TERM NUMERICAL MORPHOLOGICAL MODEL - A CARIBBEAN CONTEXT
Authors: Villarroel-Lamb Deborah Ann
Published: December 2012

A recently developed beach change model was investigated to assess its predictive capability with respect to shoreline change. This investigation formed part of a number of analyses being conducted to assess the capability of the numerical model. The model was firstly compared to a commonly used commercial model to assess its output on wave and sediment responses. Secondly, the beach changes were investigated to determine a likely probability density function for the shoreline responses. A number of probability density functions were compared with the results and critical deductions were made. Lastly, the new beach change model has a distinctive feature which attempts to reduce the model run-time to promote greater use. This wave-averaging feature was investigated to determine model performance as parameters were changed. It was shown that the model compares favorably to the commercial package in some aspects, but not all. The shoreline response may be best described by a single probability density function, which makes it quite suitable for quantitative risk analyses. Lastly, the wave-averaging feature can be used to reduce runtime although this requires the user to apply sound judgment in the analyses.
NUMERICAL MODELLING OF HYDRODYNAMICS AND SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE SURF ZONE : A SENSITIVITY STUDY WITH DIFFERENT TYPES OF NUMERICAL MODELS
Authors: Trouw Koen Jacobus Martha , Zimmermann Nicolas , Mathys Mieke , Delgado Rosalia , Roelvink Dano
Published: December 2012

A comparison between two very different numerical models is presented: Delft3D and XBeach. Delft3D (Deltares) calculates non-steady flow and transport phenomena that result from tidal and meteorological forcing. The wave propagation is calculated in the frequency domain. XBeach (Unesco-IHE, Delft University and Deltares) consists of formulations for short wave envelope propagation (time-dependent wave action balance), non-stationary shallow water equations, sediment transport and bed update. The model is able to resolve the time dependent long waves, which are important in the surf zone. A number of simplified cases are defined beforehand taking into account actual features and conditions existing in chosen problem areas. The examination of these simplified cases allows for the identification of driving processes and the assessment of the sensitivity to certain relevant parameters, with the advantage of working in scenarios of limited complexity and without excessive computational load.