bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Crosslinking of Wool with Epoxide
Authors: Tae Jin Kang  , Su Jin Moon
Published: March 2008

Wool fabric is treated with a simple pad-dry-cure process using glycerol polyglycidyl ether, a multifunctional epoxide, to improve wrinkle recovery. Crosslinked samples with different add-ons are obtained by varying the epoxide concentration in the reaction system. Crosslinking of wool with epoxide is indirectly demonstrated by a solubility test, SEM, and FT-IR spectrometry. The crystalline structure of the crosslinked wool fabric remains unchanged, despite epoxide treatment. Moisture regain is reduced as epoxide concentration increases. Chemically modified wool fabrics show improved wet and dry wrinkle recovery behavior due to crosslinking. The effect of crosslinking on the glass transition temperature ( Tg) of wool is investigated using differential scanning calorimetry. The Tg of dry wool is predicted by plotting the reciprocal of Tg as a function of the water weight fraction using the Fox equation. The Tg of the samples increases with crosslinking. A thermomechanical analysis confirms that although the temperature of the final contraction peak of the crosslinked wool samples is similar to that of the untreated sample, it drops substantially above 20% epoxide concentration, suggesting less thermal stability.
Dynamic Air Permeability Behavior of Nylon 66 Airbag Fabrics
Authors: Partridge J.F. , Mukhopadhyay S.K. , Barnes J.A.
Published: March 2008

A novel dynamic air permeability tester (Textest FX3350) is designed to project air at high pressure through automotive airbag fabrics. The abilities of the machine are studied, and a standard operating procedure is defined. A series of fabrics is tested with the machine, and the results are correlated with readings obtained from the conventional static tester, which operates at a lower pressure. A nonlinear relationship exists between air pressure and fabric air permeability.
Advances in Carbon Dioxide Based Sizing and Desizing
Authors: Bowman Lawrence E. , Reade Nathan H. , Hallen Richard T. , Butenhoff Andy
Published: March 2008

We report advances in nonaqueous sizing and desizing where liquid carbon dioxide is the solvent. New size formulations are required for carbon dioxide based sizing and desizing because traditional size materials are not soluble in this novel solvent. Toward this end, new size formulations based on fluorinated compounds have been prepared and applied to polyester/cotton blend yams. Size performance is characterized with respect to abrasion resistance, tensile strength, and elongation-at-break. Some of these developmental size formulations appear to have abrasion resistance in excess of three times that of conventional starch/polyvinyl alcohol sizes, as measured by the number of abrasion cycles to break normalized to the size add-on. Quantitative desizing by means of supercritical carbon dioxide extraction is demonstrated using a traditional "X-test." We also report desizing through several layers of fabric to mimic desizing a roll of greige fabric.
Quantifying Fibrous Debris Released by and Generated from Wiping Materials
Authors: Oathout J.M. , Mattina C.F.
Published: March 2008

A procedure for quantifying fibrous debris from wiping materials is described. The method rests on the hypothesis that some debris, called readily releasable fibrous debris, already exists on and within the body of a wiper. Other fibrous entities, however, do not yet exist but will be generated in response to mechanical energy administered to the wiper. In the procedure, the readily releasable fibrous entities are determined by sluicing them from the wiper with water and subsequently counting them using optical microscopy. The wiper, now devoid of the readily releasable fibrous debris, is then subjected to an input of energy by means of a shaking technique, which also uses water, followed by enumeration of the fibrous entities generated. The water volume and shak ing time affect the results and are considered in the protocol. Data are presented for releasable and generated fibrous debris from a variety of commercially available wiping materials.
A Worsted Fabric Expert System
Authors: Fan J. , Hunter L.
Published: March 2008

This two-part series of papers reports on the development of a worsted fabric expert system that provides guidelines for engineering worsted fabrics. Part II describes a neural network model for predicting fabric properties based on fiber, yam, and fabric constructional parameters. An evaluation of the model shows very good agreement between the predicted and generally accepted trends of the effects of various fiber, yarn, and fabric parameters on several important fabric properties such as seam slip page, wrinkle performance, abrasion resistance, shear rigidity, bending rigidity and thickness. The predicted values of many of these fabric properties are also in good agreement with the experimental values.
Durable Press and Antimicrobial Finishing of Cotton Fabrics with a Citric Acid and Chitosan Treatment
Authors: Chung Yong-Sik , Lee Kwang-Keun , Kim Jin-Woo
Published: March 2008

Citric acid (cA) and chitosan are used as durable press and antimicrobial finishing agents for cotton, and are applied by means of the conventional pad-dry-cure process. CA is expected to react with hydroxyl groups in cellulose and chitosan or with amino groups in chitosan to form ester crosslinking or an inter-ionic attraction. Durable press appearance ratings of 3.5-4 are imparted with CA and chitosan treatments. The cotton fabric treated with CA alone shows antimicrobial properties. These and durable press performance are retained through twenty washing and tumble drying cycles. Strength retention improves more with CA and chitosan than with CA alone.
Three-Dimensional Modeling of the Behavior of Geotextile Sheets as Membranes
Authors: Villard P. , Giraud H.
Published: March 2008

Due to increased land use, road or rail infrastructure is more and more frequently being built on ground that is weak or risks collapse. To avoid any damage or dis ruption (closure to traffic), reinforcements made from geotextile sheets are cur rently being studied. To understand the three-dimensional behavior of textile sheets acting as membranes under pressure, an original finite element calculation method is discussed and compared with analytical solutions in simple cases. A sizing nom ograph and some practical solutions are presented in more complex cases of rein forcement.
A Novel Approach to Three-Dimensional Modeling of Interlaced Fabric Structures
Authors: Liao Tianyi , Adanur Sabit
Published: March 2008

This paper attempts the geometric modeling of woven and braided fabric structures in three dimensions using a computer aided geometric design (CAGD) technique. A new symbolic approach to fabric structure representation, which is useful to the textile CAD/CAM process and fabric design, is presented, and a basic model is proposed that treats a yarn as a three-dimensional solid object. Some traditional 2D fabric models are extended into 3D models and demonstrated in 3D form. The structures of various fabrics are demonstrated in graphic forms, including elementary weaves such as plain weave, twill, and satin; two layer fabrics; braided fabrics; and three-dimensional fabrics as reinforcements for composite materials.
Effect of Low Temperature Plasma Treatment on Color of Wool and Nylon 6 Fabrics Dyed with Natural Dyes
Authors: Wakida Tomiji , Cho Sungmi , Choi Sukchul , Tokino Seiji , Lee Muncheul
Published: March 2008

In a previous article, we reported that oxygen low temperature plasma treatment of wool fibers increases both the dyeing rate and saturation dye exhaustion of acid dyes, despite increased electronegativity of the fiber surface with the treatment. In this article, wool and nylon 6 fabrics treated with oxygen, carbon tetrafluoride, and ammonia low temperature plasmas are dyed with several natural dyes, such as cochineal, Chinese cork tree, madder, and gromwell. The dyeing rate of the plasma-treated wool increases con siderably with cochineal, Chinese cork tree, and madder, but not with gromwell. How ever, the dyeing rate of nylon 6 with cochineal and Chinese cork tree is not changed by the plasma pretreatment. Furthermore, plasma-treated wool fabrics dyed with cochineal and Chinese cork tree have increased brightness compared with untreated wool.
Theoretical Control and Experimental Verification of Carded Web Density Part I: Dynamic System Analysis and Controller Design
Authors: Jeffrey Kuo Chung-Feng , Wang Chang-Chung , Hsieh Chien-Teng
Published: March 2008

Control of uniform carded fiber webs becomes very important when one wants to push the state of the art with faster and more accurate textile spinning. Four steps are necessary for controlling the carded web and its uniformity. First, a good design-based model of the plant needs to be considered. Second, a good actuator, sensor and, con troller that are also realizable must exist. Third, input to the controller must be con structed using knowledge of the system's dynamic response to improve system performance. Finally, all the effort of the design is meaningful only when tested by experiment. This paper presents a complete strategy for a uniform carded fiber web control system. Part I illustrates the system dynamics, stability, controllability, and observability by application to feedback control of one worker-stripper group, and uses the root-locus design technique for the controller design. At the same time, a comple mentary control scheme for precise system control is presented. This composite control method gives the corresponding closed-loop system not only a time-optimal operation, but also the most efficient, precise control properties.
Evaluating Fabric Smoothness Appearance with a Laser Profilometer
Authors: Xu B. , Cuminato D.F. , Keyes N.M.
Published: March 2008

Automated, objective, and reliable fabric evaluation methods are needed as alter natives to existing visual inspection methods. A new profilometer has been developed for assessing fabric smoothness appearance by using laser triangulation and image processing techniques. The profilometer consists of a laser line projector, CCD camera, rotating stage, computer, and special software. This paper reports the basic principle of laser triangulation, image processing techniques for extracting surface profiles, wrin kle characterization methods, and the results of a trial test. The profilometer can gen erate results that are consistent with human observers, and the patterns and colors of the fabric do not affect the measurements. In addition, the profilometer is essentially insensitive to patterns of wrinkle orientations. This new evaluation method also solves a problem encountered in research on other instrumental evaluation techniques—the ability to discriminate differences in fabrics whose smoothness appearance falls be tween AATCC Test Method 124 replicas SA-3 and SA-3.5.
Drape Behavior of Woven Fabrics with Seams
Authors: Hu Jinlian , Chung Siuping
Published: March 2008

Drape is a unique property that allows a fabric to be bent in more than one direction with double curvature. For many years, textile researchers studied this attribute in order to evaluate the drape quality and improve the drape appearance of garments. However, fabric drape can be more realistically investigated by considering seams. At present, research in this area is very limited. This paper presents a fundamental drape analysis of seamed fabrics using Cusick's drapemeter. Simple plain and twill woven fabrics with various fiber contents of cotton, linen, silk, wool, and polyester are given radial and circular seams. The effects of seam allowance and seam position are investigated experimentally. Drape behavior is determined and compared in terms of drape coeffi cient, node analysis, and drape profile. Investigating drape on seamed fabrics can im prove apparel design and fabric end-use applications. Moreover, it contributes to gar ment drape prediction for the clothing CAD system.
Effects of Scouring with Enzymes, Organic Solvents, and Caustic Soda on the Properties of Hydrogen Peroxide Bleached Cotton Yarn
Authors: Buschle-Diller G. , El Mogahzy Y. , Inglesby M.K. , Zeronian S.H.
Published: March 2008

Three different scouring methods are applied to open-end and ring spun yarns prior to hydrogen peroxide bleaching with and without metal ions present. The scouring procedures include a penetrating treatment with aqueous sodium hydroxide solution, a nonswelling solvent extraction, and a fiber surface-affecting treatment with pectinase enzymes. Properties of the treated yarns and fiber damage are studied after each process step. Conventional scouring with sodium hydroxide followed by peroxide bleaching causes the highest deterioration on the molecular level, but results in a high level of whiteness, Solvent extracted yams exhibit superior tensile strength, which is preserved more or less unchanged throughout any subsequent treatment. The bioscouring process with enzymes renders the yams strikingly soft. The effects are generally more pro nounced for open-end spun yams, suggesting that differences in yarn structure may have an impact on the effectiveness of scouring.
A Geometric Analysis of the Stitch Form of a Circular Plain Knit Fabric Inserted Over a Cylinder
Authors: Morooka Hideo , Matsumoto Yoichi , Morooka Harumi
Published: March 2008

The particular stitch used in the legs of pantyhose is one important factor related to wear performance, for example, the way the fabric feels, its luster, etc. To obtain a fundamental knowledge of the stitch form, we analyzed geometrically the stitch form of a circular plain knit model inserted over a cylinder. We developed some formulas that can be used to calculate each of the partial loop lengths from some parameters, such as the radius of a cylinder, yarn diameter, number of courses, number of wales, covered height, and length of yarn in one course, etc., where one loop is divided into eight parts. The formulas include those in the general analysis and an analysis under extreme conditions. Some results from the numerical calculations are shown.
Fatigue Behavior of Aramid Nonwoven Fabrics Under Hot-Press Conditions
Authors: Watanabe Akira , Miwa Minoru , Yokoi Teruyuki
Published: March 2008

The purpose of this investigation is to find the most suitable design for heat-resistant nonwoven fabrics to be used as a component of laminated materials. In the earlier parts of the series [1-5], we found that needle punched nonwoven fabrics have superior recovery from pressure compared to paper-like nonwoven and four-ply woven fabrics. The three-dimensional fiber arrangement made by the needle causes these fibers to behave like springs in the nonwoven. The degree of 3-D fiber arrangement depends on needle punching density, and is one of the most important factors that determine the mechanical properties of the nonwoven. But the 3-D fiber arrangement and its effec tiveness gradually diminish after repeated hot-press fatiguing treatments. In this new experiment, we create a needle punched nonwoven by inserting a few stable base fabrics between webs, so that the 3-D fiber arrangement is maintained as long as pos sible even after many hot-press fatiguing treatments. Generally, a stable base fabric is used for dimensional stability and deformation resistance of the nonwoven. We believe that a base fabric in a nonwoven will restric the movability of fibers, so the 3-D fiber arrangement can be maintained, and the recovery from pressure and durability against repeated hot-press fatiguing treatments may be further improved. The nonwovens are made from various base fabrics in different positions between the webs. We also study the effectiveness of the base fabrics on the mechanical properties of nonfatigued non wovens and the changes in their properties with fatiguing.
Laser Doppler Anemometry for an Experimental Study of Flow Through Geotextiles: Influence of the Manufacturing Process
Authors: Saidi M.A. , Dréan J.Y. , Adolphe D.
Published: March 2008

Filtration flows through needle-punched geotextiles are experimentally studied using a laser Doppler velocimetry technique. The influence of the manufacturing process (basis weight μg and needling intensity N) on one hydraulic property of geotextiles— the influence length (IL) —is highlighted.
Surface Resistivity Behavior of Plasma Treated and Plasma Grafted Cotton and Polyester Fabrics
Authors: Bhat N.V. , Benjamin Y.N.
Published: March 2008

Cotton and polyester fabrics are treated with radio-frequency plasma (in air) at different power levels and time intervals, and moisture content and surface resistivity behavior are investigated. Plasma treatment lowers the moisture content of cotton and enhances that of polyester. The surface resistivity of plasma treated cotton is affected by both power level and treatment time, and the surface resistivity of polyester is dramatically reduced after plasma treatment. The two fabrics are subjected to further plasma initiated grafting of acrylamide and acrylonitrile. Polyester has a moisture con tent of up to 3% after plasma initiated grafting. The surface resistivity of cotton is somewhat lowered, whereas that of polyester is drastically lowered after grafting.
Objective Evaluation of Fabric Hand
Authors: Kim Jai O. , Slaten B. Lewis
Published: March 2008

A simple extraction method effectively measures the changes in hand resulting from different fabric types, flame retardant (FR) finishes, and fabric wetness. The effects of FR finishes and wetness on the original fabric hand are inconsistent in terms of the direction of increase or decrease depending on the fabric and finish. When FR finished fabrics are wetted, hand forces increase for all fabrics tested. In investigating the re lationships between hand values and selected hand-related physical and surface prop erties, flexural rigidity, drape, and static friction are the major properties that influence hand force measured by the extraction method. This simple method appears to closely approximate the fabric tactile response the human hand feels when touching and grab bing. Hand values objectively measured by this method simultaneously reflect the phys ical and surface properties of the fabric that are important in determining overall hand.
Reflective Properties of Pantyhose Cloth as Analyzed by an Image Analysis System
Authors: Morooka Hideo , Wakashima Kiyohito , Matsumoto Yoichi , Morooka Harumi
Published: March 2008

In this paper, we attempt to clarify experimentally the reflective properties of fine knit fabrics in the leg sections of pantyhose using an adjustable-angle optical imaging device with a zoom videocamera and an image analyzer. Three knit fabrics differing in yam structure are the samples. We analyze the effects of various angles of both the incidence ray and its receptor on reflectiveness, and we also look at the position of samples relative to the incidence direction and its effect on the distribution and intensity of reflection points. With the results, we clarify the effects of respective yarn structures on the reflectiveness of the cloth.
The Structure of Polyester/Cotton Blended Air-Jet Spun Yarn
Authors: Bhortakke M.K. , Nishimura T. , Matsuo T.
Published: March 2008

We investigate the differences in the structure of polyester and cotton wrappers, thus gaining some idea of their wrapper-fiber-forming tendencies. We observe and photograph forty randomly selected locations along a yarn length with a scanning electron microscope to determine the numbers of polyester and cotton wrappers, the numbers of loose polyester and cotton wrappers, and the wrapping angle for each wrapping fiber. We also study the effects of polyester length, denier, cotton fiber type, and yam delivery speed on these parameters. We investigate the possi bility of nep formation in air jet spinning by studying the structure of neps with the scanning electron microscope. The results show that though polyester fibers con tribute more to the total number of wrappers, cotton seems to have better wrapper- forming tendencies when the numbers of polyester and cotton wrappers are ex pressed as percents of the respective numbers of fibers in the yarn cross sections. Cotton forms more loose wrappers than polyester, and the wrapping angle for cotton is greater. The structural study of neps collected from air-jet spun yarns shows that some of them have probably formed during spinning.
Carding Dynamics Part I: Previous Studies of Fiber Distribution and Movement in Carding
Authors: Jian Meng  , Seyam Abdelfattah M. , Batra Subhash K.
Published: March 2008

This paper is the first of a series of publications dealing with extensive card research supported by the Nonwovens Cooperative Research Center. The paper gives a com prehensive critical review of previous investigations of fiber movement and their dis tribution on card elements. It focuses on principles governing fiber transfer from one card element to another and fiber distribution on different card elements.
Water in Wool
Authors: Pierlot Anthony P.
Published: March 2008

The polymer absorption model developed by Vrentas and Vrentas is applied to the wool/water isotherm. In principle, all parameters in this model can be determined independently of sorption behavior so that a genuine prediction can be made. This model emphasizes the role of the glass transition in generating the sigmoidal shape of the absorption isotherm. By applying an extended version of the model and thermo dynamic data obtained from the literature to the wool/water isotherm, a reasonable fit to experimental data is achieved. Sorption behavior at higher temperatures is also rea sonably well predicted. The influence of the glass transition in restricting the rate of water crystallization during cooling is used to reinterpret the results of a previous study using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). This study concluded that three different states of water may exist in wool, cotton, and silk, i.e., free water, freezing bound water, and nonfreezing bound water. However, an alternative and more plausible in terpretation for the Dsc behavior recognizes the influence of the glass transition, and the appearance of freezing bound water coincides with the depression of the glass transition to just below O°C. Thus, the DSC data do not support the presence of different classes of water in wool.
Antimicrobial and Blood Repellent Finishes for Cotton and Nonwoven Fabrics Based on Chitosan and Fluoropolymers
Authors: Lee Seungsin , Cho Jeong-Sook , Cho Gilsoo
Published: March 2008

In order to impart barrier properties against microorganisms and blood to 100% cotton fabrics and 55/45% woodpulp/polyester spunlaced nonwoven fabrics, samples are treated with chitosan and fluoropolymers using the pad-dry-cure and pad-cure meth ods, respectively. Antimicrobial activity of the samples is analyzed quantitatively by measuring the number of colonies of Staphylococcus aureus. Blood repellency is as sessed with an impact penetration test using synthetic blood. Laundering durability of the finishes is measured, and scanning electron microscopy is used to evaluate changes in the fabric surfaces. To investigate the effect of finishing on the hand and air per meability of fabrics, the mechanical properties of the samples are measured by the KES-FB system. Samples treated only with chitosan show a high reduction rate in the number of colonies. Dual finished specimens treated with 1.1 % chitosan concentration also maintain over 90% reductions in the number of colonies. The blood repellency of dual finished nonwoven fabrics is superior to that of dual finished cotton. Dual finished cotton fabrics exhibited durable antimicrobial activity with repeated laundering. As regards mechanical properties, bending rigidity and shear rigidity increase when cotton and nonwoven fabrics are treated only with chitosan, but these properties decrease after the fluoropolymer treatment. Air permeability of the specimens decreases slightly after the dual finish.
Computer Simulation of Cone Winding Mechanisms with Constant Rate of Yarn Delivery Systems
Authors: Porat I. , Greenwood K. , Bandukda Z.
Published: March 2008

The work reported here is aimed at designing a tension compensation system that will prevent increased tension with increasing package diameter, which usually occurs with constant rate of yam delivery systems such as those used on OE spinning machines. Compensation is achieved by a feed-back tension monitoring device that adjusts the driving roller speed so as to keep the tension constant. In cone winding, the design of such a system is complicated by the fact that, at any particular driving roller speed, the yarn take-up speed varies from base to nose of the package and is only equal to the driving roller speed at one point, the point of drive (POD). In order to solve this problem, a computer simulation of a cone winding system with constant rate of yarn delivery is developed. The analytical work involved in creating the simulation makes it possible to determine the location of the POD and shows that it is dependent on yarn tension and on the frictional force between driving roller and package. This means that in designing the compensating system, one must pay attention to the movement of the POD. which to some extent cancels out the effect of changes in the driving roller speed. There is good agreement between experimental results and predictions derived from the simu lation, and the new compensating system completely eliminates the effect of increasing cone diameter on yam tension.
Structure-Property Relationship of Blended Cotton Yarns Made from Low and High Tenacity Fibers
Authors: Anandjiwala Rajesh D. , Goswami Bhuvenesh C. , Bragg Charles K. , Bargeron Jefferson D.
Published: March 2008

The tensile response of staple yams is usually determined by their structure and the mechanical properties of their constituent fibers. Yarn structure is influenced by the radial disposition of fibers along the yam length, commonly known as migration, and the packing density of the fibers in the yarn cross section. These, in turn, are affected by fiber properties, yarn factors, and the dynamics of preparatory and spinning pro cesses. Yarn structure development is further complicated when the yarn is spun from blends of different fiber types because the blending method usually profoundly influ ences the position and orientation of the fibers in the yam matrix. This investigation is concerned with the effect of fiber properties and yarn structure on the tensile properties of ring spun yarns made from a 50:50 blend of high (Pima) and low (Upland) tenacity cotton fibers spun using intimate and drawframe blending techniques. The drawframe blended yarn in this work is produced by arranging all high tenacity fiber slivers in the center of the drawframe creel to determine if preferential positioning in the core of the yam helps to improve the strength of drawframe blended yarn compared with intimate blended yarns. The findings reveal that intimate blended yam has better tensile strength than drawframe blended yarn, even though more high strength Pima cotton fibers are positioned in the core of the yam. This is because non-uniform fiber distribution re sulting from blending of different fibers affects the migratory behavior of fibers. The tensile failure of such yams is governed by the mode of fiber breakage and fiber slippage as determined by the yarn structure—fiber distribution and migration—rather than predominantly by fiber breakage compared with strength.
Cuticle Scale Heights of Wool and Specialty Fibers and Their Changes Due to Textile Processing
Authors: Wortmann F.-J. , Phan K.-H.
Published: March 2008

Animal fiber identification in the scanning electron microscope (SEM) using the criterion of cuticle scale edge height (CSH) is a well established method suitable for all stages of textile processing. In his paper, P. A. Tucker ( Textile Res. J. 68, 229-230 (1998)) presents results that lead him to state comprehensively, "fiber identification based on scale heights is misleading for some and probably all chemically treated fibers." After scrutinizing Tucker's evidence in view of specific SEM investigations in the literature and applying a consistent terminology, we conclude that he fails to provide valid evidence against the CSH method for discriminating sheep's wool from specialty fibers. Furthermore, we document changes in fiber surface morphology due to textile processing and discuss their general relevance for wool and specialty fiber analysis.
Carding Dynamics Part II: Development of a Device for On-Line Measurement of Two-Dimensional Fiber Loading on Card Elements
Authors: Seyam Elfattah M. , Jian Meng  , El-Shiekh Aly
Published: March 2008

The first part of this series shows that empirical and theoretical relationships devel oped to relate cardability to fiber movement and distribution have no practical value without a technique to measure fiber loading on card elements. This paper closely examines and compares off- and on-line techniques and devices implemented by pre vious researchers to measure fiber loads on card elements. Additionally, this part pre sents research efforts to develop a new optimum device with flexible features to mea sure two-dimensional fiber loading on card elements.
Flame Retardation of Cellulosic Fibers Characterized by Apparent Activation Energy of Thermal Degradation
Authors: Nakanishi Shigeko , Morikawa Junko , Hashimoto Toshimasa
Published: March 2008

This paper extends previous investigations on the thermal degradation behavior of cotton fabric treated with compounds containing different kinds of elements that con tribute to flame retardation. The apparent activation energy (Ea) is evaluated by Ozawa's method at different stages of thermal degradation, represented by the thermal degradation onset point, maximum degradation rate point, and flash point, to observe the variation of Ea in the process of thermal degradation. Ea values of flame retardant samples are generally lower, whereas those of flammable samples are higher than that of untreated cotton fabric at every step throughout thermal degradation. Such results suggest that flame retardant materials decompose more easily than flammable samples, which supports the fact reported in earlier work that the thermal degradation of flame retardant materials is initiated at lower temperatures in comparison with that of flam mable materials.
Yarn Tail Structure in Friction Spinning
Authors: Kato Hisaaki , Konda Fujio , Okamura Masaaki , Merati Ali Akbar , Saeki Hirokazu
Published: March 2008

We have analyzed the yarn tail structure in the yarn-forming zone of a friction spinning machine by considering the shape of individual fibers in the yarn. We use photographic and fiber tracing methods to consider the shape of individual fibers in the yarn structure. In this research, we try to demonstrate that the shape of the yam tail in friction spinning can be obtained from the fiber configuration in the yarn structure. The results of our research indicate that the yarn tail in the yarn-forming zone has a complex shape. The tip of the yarn tail is thicker than in theory, not only because of the volu minous structure in this part of tail in the yarn-forming zone, but also because it may be affected by the quality of fibers feeding in to the yarn tail through the outlet of the transport channel. The experimental results of the twist imparted to the yarn tail also show that the twist in the inner and outer layers of the yarn is different and increases in the yarn center 2-2.5 times compared with twist in the yam surface.
Measuring Fiber Diameter Distribution in Nonwovens
Authors: Pourdeyhimi B. , Dent R.
Published: March 2008

This paper reports the application of image analysis methods we developed previ ously to characterize fiber diameter distribution in nonwovens using a "distance trans form." The method is verified by a series of simulated nonwoven images as well as some real web images used previously, including a carded web, a relatively dense spunbonded fabric, and another relatively open area-bonded spunbonded. The results indicate that the distance transform can be used successfully to characterize fiber diameter.
Structural Changes in Hemp Fibers as a Result of Enzymatic Hydrolysis with Mixed Enzyme Systems
Authors: Buschle-Diller G. , Fanter C. , Loth F.
Published: March 2008

Hemp fabric is hydrolyzed with cellulase, hemicellulase/cellulase, and cellulase plus additional β-glucosidase. The effect of the admixture of hemicellulase and β-glucosi dase is evaluated in terms of hydrolysis rate and product properties. The influence of mechanical action during the treatment is also taken into account. Treated samples are characterized by weight loss per incubation time, tensile strength, crystallinity, acces sibility, and pore structure. The admixture of hemicellulase and,β-glucosidase produces only minor effects without mechanical action on the hydrolysis rate, but mechanical action applied during the treatment dramatically increases weight loss. While crystal linity changes upon hydrolysis are insignificant, the pore structure is strongly influenced by the choice of enzyme system. Hemicellulase seems to promote the formation of smaller pores, while cellobiase forms larger pores.
Effects of Laundering on the Sensory and Mechanical Properties of 1 × 1 Rib Knitwear Fabrics
Authors: Mackay Colina , Anand Subhash C. , Bishop David P.
Published: March 2008

Acrylic, cotton, and wool 1 × 1 rib knitwear fabrics are subjected to up to fifty laundering cycles in a variety of washing and drying conditions. Tactile and mechanical properties of the new and washed fabrics are quantified using subjective and objective evaluation methods. Principal components analysis (PCA) identifies the most important property changes in the three fabric types, and indicates correlations between individ ual, subjectively assessed fabric attributes and objectively measured mechanical param eters. Causes of major fabric changes are discussed in terms of the wash process vari ables (agitation level, detergent product, and drying method) and the different physicochemical properties of the three fiber types. The PCA is believed to provide a means of defining fabric "total hand values" for I X I rib knitwear fabrics without recourse to regression equations based on "once-and-for-all" expert judgements.
Numerical Simulation of Filtration Flow Through and Around Textile Fibers1
Authors: Berton G. , Sigli D.
Published: March 2008

A numerical analysis based on a finite element method is used to model a Newtonian fluid flow in a channel partially closed with a thin porous structure. Our goal is to study the effects of variations of the structural parameters of this filter on the flow. The two- dimensional problem is resolved for a Reynolds number close to 0.1 with dimensionless variables. The structure is made of porous bands more or less spaced by slits. These bands represent porous fibers or fabrics according to a scale. Flows through a full porous medium and through the porous structure with slits are compared, and the influence on the hydrodynamic field of aperture porosity β, slit number, and permea bility is investigated. The results reveal the necessary conditions leading to homoge neousness and minimum perturbation of flow. The particular case of a filter being plugged is approached.
Vibrating Properties of Textile Surfaces1
Authors: Aubry E. , Postle R. , Renner M.
Published: March 2008

In this study, we investigate the propagation mechanisms for transverse vibrations in textile surfaces, On the basis of experimentation, we propose a mathematical model based on the membrane theory. The experimental study involves a rectangular fabric sample, fixed at two opposite edges, and free to vibrate at the two other edges. This fabric sample is subject to uniaxial constant load and is excited transversely with a harmonic force. The first natural frequency of vibration can be measured using this experimental system. A simple model based on membrane theory validates the exper imental results.
X-Ray Diffraction Determination of the Effective Temperature Applied to Fibers During Processing1
Authors: Roldán Luís González , Pereira Mário José
Published: March 2008

X-ray diffraction studies of the relationship between structure and fiber thermal pro cessing during texturing of yams or in fabric production has been helpful in under standing the causes of differential dyeing, as present in barré, or changes in the physical properties of fabrics. Crystalline order indices ( COI), derived from parameters mea sured on the XRD diagrams of samples carefully treated at increasing temperatures and based on the fiber's continuous structural transition from less order toward a more highly ordered state, help to obtain simple correlations capable of determining the "effective temperature" of production samples as received during processing. Defects induced during processing by faulty temperature controls can, by this correlation, be recognized and corrective steps taken. This paper describes the behavior of nylon 6 (polycaprolactam), poly (ethylene terephthalate ) (PET), and Qiana (R).
Characterizing Single Fibers with a Profile Meter1
Authors: Longrée M. , Bernardin C. , Delfosse P. , Lemaire P. , Paquet B. , Knott J.
Published: March 2008

A laboratory instrument has been developed that provides rapid and simultaneous measurements of length and diameter characteristics for individual fibers. The mea .suring device is based on the use of a CCD camera, which determines the transverse dimension on successive sections along the fiber. In this way, the detailed variation of the diameter along the fiber is measured, thus giving a full profile of the fiber. Relevant parameters are computed from these profiles: fiber length, mean diameter (along a single fiber), coefficient of variation of diameter (along a single fiber), position of minimum diameter along the fiber, etc. The principle of the instrument is described . and examples of measured profiles are given. The performance of the instrument is also described. Finally, potential applications of the method are discussed, which can be particularly interesting for the study of natural fibers like wool, but also in other fields like dermatology or cosmetology where the dimensional characteristics of human hair are important.
Low Cost Tangential Bobbin Creel for Twist-Free Intermittent Reinforcement Fiber Placement
Authors: Hoersting Karlheinz , Wienands Christian
Published: March 2008

Intermittent reinforcement fiber sheet placement is part of manufacturing high quality composite components (especially carbon fiber reinforcements). In producing mul tiaxial layer reinforcement textiles or in the filament winding process, the reinforcement fibers are subjected to special dynamic conditions during fiber placement. These con ditions are disadvantageous for achieving high quality composite components. There fore, a device is required for feeding twist-free fiber sheets with a constant low fiber tension level, which can be fitted to a filament winding machine or a warp knitting machine with a multiaxial layer weft insertion system. Solutions for twist-free inter mittent reinforcement fiber sheet placement for composite applications can only be realized by complex and expensive mechanical feeding devices. Thus, a new tangential creel has been developed, consisting of a rolling bobbin draw-off frame and a tension reducing accumulator, fulfilling the complex dynamic requirements of composite com ponent production.
A Computer Simulation Based Scheduler for Woven Fabric Production
Authors: Guorong Chen  , Harlock S.C.
Published: March 2008

Finding a feasible schedule for assigning hundreds of different fabric orders on hundreds of looms to meet the order due dates and to maximize loom utilization is a diverse and complicated task. Such a scheduling problem is of significance in practice. An attempt is made to develop a computer simulation based scheduling system to cope with this problem. An application trial of this approach by a real weaving mill is also reported.
Maximizing Yarn and Fabric Strength Through Variance of HVI Elongation
Authors: Koo Hyun-Jin , Suh Moon W.
Published: March 2008

As a new method for maximizing yarn and fabric strengths, an exploratory blending experiment is completed in a 4-week period by processing 2117 bales of three different cottons in a textile mill to produce 94.4 tex (6.3/1 Ne) open-end spun yarns, and weaving them into a denim fabric. Bale selection is done in such a way that the variance of single fiber breaking elongations can be minimized within a laydown of 29 bales as well as among the fibers to be found within an arbitrary cross section of the yam produced from the laydown. The study shows that the variance of the HVI breaking elongations obtained from the cotton bales is useful for maximizing the resulting yarn strengths, especially when they are combined with the Mantis® single fiber test results. In addition, a follow-up study analyzes the HVI data and matching physical test data obtained from a 2-year production period. In all, 121,200 bales (4180 laydowns) are tested for HVI bundle strength, elongation, micronaire, length, and other properties. As in the exploratory study, the cotton bales are processed into 94.4 tex open-end spun yams and an identical denim fabric. The final analysis shows that the between-bale variance of HVI bundle breaking elongations within a laydown is quite useful as a criterion for bale selection and yarn and fabric strength maximization. An enhanced method is also developed to make use of the HVI elongation data together with the Mantis single fiber tensile test results. The new procedure is even more effective at maximizing yarn and fabric strengths.
Effect of Surfactants on Decoloration of Various Dyes by Peroxide Bleaching Agents
Authors: Tokuda J. , Ohura R. , Nango M.
Published: March 2008

The effect of three surfactants, dodecylbenzenesulfonate (DBS), n-hexadecyltri methylammonium bromide (HTAB), and polyethylene glycol mono-p-octylphenyl ether (PEOPE), on the decoloration rates of C.I. Acid Orange 7, C.I. Basic Green 4, and C.I. Basic Orange 33 by peroxide bleaching agents such as sodium percarbonate and hy drogen peroxide is examined. The decoloration rate of Acid Orange 7 by peroxide bleaching agents accelerates in the presence of DBS, HTAB and PEOPE, especially near the cmc, with the maximum rate being observed in the presence of HTAB. However, the decoloration rate of Basic Orange 33 by hydrogen peroxide accelerates only when DBS is present near the cmc. There is no or less enhanced decoloration in the presence of HTAB or PEOPE. Interestingly, the decoloration rate of Basic Green 4 by hydrogen peroxide accelerates with increasing HTAB concentration, and in contrast, the rate de creases when DBS is present. These results indicate that decoloration rates by peroxide bleaching agents largely depend on interactions between the dyes and surfactants.
Objective Evaluation of Pucker in Three-Dimensional Garment Seams
Authors: Fan J. , Lu D. , Macalpine J.M.K. , Hui C.L.P.
Published: March 2008

This paper considers the objective evaluation of seam puckering on three-dimensional garments. In order to simulate garment surfaces in three dimensions, seamed samples are supported on five different surfaces: plane (both with and without tilt) and curved (both convex and concave). A set of five samples having seams with varying degrees of pucker are prepared from each of five fabrics, and profiles parallel to the seams are measured using a laser distance scanner. These profiles are then filtered using a band-pass Cheby shev filter (where the "frequencies" are measured in cycles/m) to remove the high frequency component contributed by the individual threads or fabric texture and the low-frequency component contributed by the shape of the sample. These band-pass filtered profiles are analyzed by calculating four statistical parameters and comparing these with the subjective AATCC grades. Excellent correlation is obtained for two of the parameters with the subjective pucker grades.
A Parameter for Comparing the Damage Tolerance of Stressed Plain Weave Fabrics
Authors: Godfrey Thomas A. , Rossettos John N.
Published: March 2008

A micromechanics-based mathematical model for a slit-damaged (i.e., a series of consecutive yam breaks), biaxially stressed, plain weave fabric is used to define and motivate a candidate screening parameter pu, which can provide a measure of damage tolerance for a class of such fabrics. Preliminary results are presented from damage growth tests on a variety of fabrics with initial slit damage consisting of the same number of breaks that corroborate the model and demonstrate the viability of the parameter. The contents of the parameter, which include microstructural properties of the fabric ( e.g. , yarn stiffness, yam strength, crossover point slip frictional forces, warp and fill direction crossover point spacings), are shown to suggest how the parameter can be useful in selecting or developing fabrics where improved damage tolerance is desired.
Fabric Bagging
Authors: Zhang X. , Li Y. , Yeung K.W. , Yao M.
Published: March 2008

Aesthetic appearance is one of the most important criteria used by consumers in judging clothing wear performance. Bagging is a kind of three-dimensional residual deformation that deteriorates garment appearance during wear and causes dissatisfaction. To understand the psychophysical mechanisms of fabric bagging perception, a method of subjectively evaluating this behavior is developed by using a series of photographs taken from bagged fabric samples. Both ranking and rating scales are used as the psychological scales. The two scales are highly correlated with each other, but the rating scale provides more information than the ranking scales and can indicate perceived differences between fabrics. A linear relationship between subjective perceptions and measured residual bagging height shows that perception of fabric bagging follows Stevens' power law. Residual bagging height contributes up to 94% of the total variance in the perception of fabric bagging. The rest of the variation may be attributed to anistropic behavior during the bagging process.
Open-End Spinning Using Air-Jet Twisting
Authors: Chongwen Yu
Published: March 2008

Open-end jet spinning, a new spinning concept, combines the advantages of both air-jet twisting and open-end spinning, and a device is designed to test this concept. The properties of the yam are measured and compared with those of some other spun yarns.
Color Measurement of Pile Fabrics
Authors: Bernard P. , Vanderhaeghen K. , Kiekens P.
Published: March 2008

The relationship between yarn color and carpet color is investigated, so that carpet color can be predicted starting from yarn color. In order to realize this, first the colors in the yarn and the carpet have to be analyzed to determine the relation between them. The results of the study present a serious first step toward a method to predict carpet color starting from yarn color.
Physical Properties and Processing of Fine Merino Lamb's Wool
Authors: Madeley Tony , Postle Ron
Published: March 2008

The effect of wool crimp, independent of fiber diameter, on loose fiber resistance to compression and the handle of fine Merino lamb's and fleece wool was reported in Part II of this series of papers. For staples in which crimp is well defined, there is a good correlation between crimp and fiber curvature. In woolen system processing, a reduction in fiber crimp/curvature results in greater sliver bulk, more even slubbing, hairier yarns, and loftier knitted fabric. A subjective and objective evaluation of knitted and woven fabrics processed from batches combining specially selected individual fleeces illustrates how fabric handle can be engineered through the principal raw wool parameters of fiber curvature and diameter.