bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
SIMULTANEOUS SURFACE AND SUBSURFACE AIR AND WATER FLOWS MODELLING IN THE SWASH ZONE
Authors: Desombre Jonathan , Morichon Denis , Mory Mathieu
Published: December 2012

This study presents the results of the numerical simulation of a bore-driven swash flow over a permeable coarse- grained beach, carried out using the THETIS code. This code, based on a VOF-RANS approach, was previously used to simulate the swash flow over an impermeable beach (Desombre et al. 2013). For the present study, the code is extended to account for infiltration and exfiltration into a permeable immobile beach using the Volume-Averaged momentum equation that solves simultaneously the surface and subsurface flows. The results are compared with a laboratory data set from an experiment performed in the swash facility of the University of Aberdeen (Steenhauer et al. 2011). Comparisons between measurements and model results show the ability of the model to simulate the main features of subsurface flow during an entire swash cycle.
IMPACT OF NOURISHMENTS ON NEARSHORE CURRENTS AND SWIMMER SAFETY ON THE DUTCH COAST
Authors: De Zeeuw Roeland , De Schipper Matthieu A. , Roelvink Dano , De Vries Sierd , Stive Marcel J. F.
Published: December 2012

Assessing swimmer safety along the Dutch coast entails more than only assessing the risk of rip currents. Seven criteria have been formulated to make a comprehensive assessment of swimmer safety along the Dutch coast. These are based on interviews with lifeguards, rescue report statistics and detailed lagrangian measurements of the current patterns and bathymetry in the shallow nearshore, at three different field sites along the South-Holland coast.
TIDAL WAVE REFLECTION FROM THE CLOSURE DAM IN THE GUADALQUIVIR ESTUARY (SW SPAIN)
Authors: Díez-Minguito Manuel , Baquerizo Asunción , Ortega-Sánchez Miguel , Ruiz Inmaculada , Losada Miguel Angel
Published: December 2012

Closure dams in estuaries and tidal areas have a strong impact on their hydrodynamics and morphology. Among other reasons, this impact can be due to tidal reflection. In the Guadalquivir estuary (SW Spain), data measured allowed to identify a partially standing motion along the upper third of the estuary. We estimate the frequency-dependent complex reflection coefficients at the head dam, and analyze the effect of the combined action of the incident and reflected tidal waves on the residual currents. Erosion-deposition patterns induced by the tidal reflection were identified. The most energetic tidal constituent, the semidiurnal M2, favors sedimentation near the entrance of the Port of Seville, where the most intense dredging works take place. Finally, we briefly discuss the potential consequences of reflection on the turbidity spatial distribution.
SHEAR-DRIVEN FLUSHING OF MICRO-TIDAL MARINAS
Authors: Murphy Enda , Deiber Mathieu , Perrin Sylvain
Published: December 2012

Flushing or residence times are typically used as a first step in assessing water quality in marinas, harbours and coastal basins. Recent publications have offered guidance in relation to optimal marina basin and entrance geometries to help achieve rapid renewal. However, these guidelines have been developed for the particular case where water exchange is strongly tide-driven and are not widely applicable, particularly in micro-tidal regions. Where water renewal rates are dominated by shear-driven circulation and lateral transfer of momentum at the interface between the marina and the adjacent water body (i.e. a mixing layer), there is a strong analogy to groyne fields and other cases involving flows containing quasi-stagnant peripheral areas (dead zones). A series of numerical hydrodynamic models, developed in the TELEMAC system, were used to investigate the potential for the dead zone model of water exchange to provide a
better means to guide optimization of basin and entrance geometry under such conditions. Real-world marina case
studies were used to identify any constraints affecting the practical implementation of such an approach. The numerical model results demonstrate particular conditions under which the dead zone model of water exchange can be used effectively to optimize marina basin and entrance geometry.
NONLINEAR BEHAVIOUR OF TSUNAMI-LIKE SOLITARY WAVE OVER SUBMERGED IMPERMEABLE STRUCTURES OF FINITE WIDTH
Authors: Strusinska-Correia Agnieszka , Oumeraci Hocine
Published: December 2012

A study on the nonlinear transformation of a tsunami-like solitary wave over impermeable submerged structures of finite widths was performed to examine the feasibility of the integration of such structures into tsunami coastal protection systems. Laboratory experiments with varying structure geometry and incident wave conditions were conducted to determine wave evolution modes, incipient wave breaking and the number of solitons resulting from the wave fission process. The latter was found to be constant for a given relative structure submergence depth and width, irrespective of incident wave conditions, and tended to increase for smaller freeboards and larger barrier widths. The hydraulic performance of the structure, predicted numerically for more realistic tsunami conditions by means of the Boussinesq-type model COULWAVE, was determined in terms of wave transmission, wave reflection and wave energy dissipation coefficients. The rate of wave transmission and energy dissipation was dependent on the breaking conditions over the structure crest: the weakest wave attenuation (approximately 10%) corresponded to nonbreaking waves, while the highest wave damping (about 25%) was achieved for the widest relative structure width (B/Li = 1.0) and the smallest relative structure submergence depth (dr/h = 0.3) investigated.
INFLUENCE OF A INFRASTRUCTURE ON TSUNAMI INUNDATION IN A COASTAL CITY: LABORATORY EXPERIMENT AND NUMERICAL SIMULATION
Authors: Shin Sungwon , Lee Kwang-Ho , Park Hyoungsu , Cox Daniel T. , Kim Kyuhan
Published: December 2012

Laboratory experiments were conducted for tsunami inundation to an urban area with large building roughness. The waterfront portion of the city of Seaside which is located on the US Pacific Northwest coast, was replicated in 1/50 scale in the wave basin. Tsunami heights and velocities on the inundated land were measured at approximately 31 locations for one incident tsunami heights with an inundation height of approximately 10 m (prototype) near the shoreline. The inundation pattern and speed were more severe and faster in some areas due to the arrangement of the large buildings. Momentum fluxes along the roads were estimated using measure tsunami inundation heights and horizontal fluid velocities. As expected, the maximum momentum flux was near the shoreline and decreased landward. 3D LES (Large Eddy Simulation) model with two-phase flow was used to compare its simulation results with experimental results. The model results of tsunami heights qualitatively agreed with the data collected from the experiment.
NUMERICAL MODELING OF COASTAL TSUNAMI IMPACT DISSIPATION AND IMPACT
Authors: Grilli Stephan T. , Harris Jeffrey C. , Shi Fengyan , Kirby James T. , Tajalli Bakhsh Tayebeh S. , Estibals Elise , Tehranirad Babak
Published: December 2012

Recent observations of the coastal impact of large tsunamis (e.g., Indian Ocean 2004; Tohoku 2011) and related numerical and theoretical works have made it increasingly clear that tsunami waves arrive nearshore as a series of long waves (so-called N-waves) with, often, the superposition of undular bores around each crest. Such wave trains are much more complex and very much in contrast with the solitary wave paradigm which for a long time was the accepted idealization of tsunami waves in both experimental and numerical work. The dissipation associated with these breaking bores can be very large, particularly over a wide and shallow continental shelf such as along the east coast of North America, particularly for the shorter waves associated with tsunamis generated by Submarine Mass Failures (SMFs). In this paper, we perform numerical simulations of tsunami coastal impact in the context of both idealized laboratory experiments and several tsunami case studies. We attempt to clarify the key physical processes at play in such cases, and discuss the parameterization of long wave dissipation and implications for models of coastal tsunami hazard assessment.
Foreword: Proceedings of the 33rd International Conference
Authors: Lynett Patrick J. , Smith Jane M
Published: December 2012

The 33rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE 2012) was held in Santander, Spain, 1 July to 6 July 2012. The Local Organizing Committee, led by Iñigo J. Losada and Raúl Medina, is acknowledged for their dedicated preparation over many years that led to a successful conference with broad participation. Eight-hundred attendees from 45 countries gathered at the Santander Convention Center to discuss research and applications in coastal engineering. The papers contained in this Proceedings cover a wide range of topics including waves; swash, nearshore currents, and long waves; coastal management, risk, and environmental restoration; sediment transport and morphology; and coastal structures. The authors have provided state-of-the-art contributions, and this volume could not be produced without their commitment to solving coastal engineering challenges. The members of the ASCE/COPRI Coastal Engineering Research Council (CERC) and the ICCE 2012 Technical Review Committee reviewed 877 abstracts and selected the 524 paper and 110 posters that were presented at the conference. The dedication of the Council members has led to the continued high quality and popularity of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Preparation of these proceedings would not be possible without the assistance of many colleagues. Thank you to Prof. Robert A. Dalrymple, CERC Chairman, and Prof. Billy L. Edge, CERC Vice Chairman, for their guidance and encouragement. Additional thanks go to Iñigo J. Losada for answering our many requests for information and for his gracious hospitality in Santander.
RESILIENCE TO EXTREME EVENTS
Authors: Ewing Lesley , Synolakis Costas
Published: December 2012

Coastal communities rely upon a range of protection elements, both constructed and natural, for resilience. Although extreme events might be assumed to be quite rare, given the level of protection that is available for many communities, extreme events can happen every few decades. Resilience of protection will diminish over time unless the elements are maintained, or in the case of natural systems, given the resources to expand and grow. As a result, communities with well-balanced and diverse resilience might find that resilience decreases with time. Extreme events or the consideration of extreme events through contingency planning and scenario development, provide valuable insights into the weaknesses in any resilience effort and help identify steps to enhance resilience for a broad spectrum of future conditions. This paper provides a definition for resilience that covers the pre-disaster conditions, disaster response and post-disaster recovery. It examines resilience of various protection management approaches for a hypothetical community. While a do-nothing approach can be the most cost-effective approach if there is no risk that an extreme event might happen, for situations where extreme events are possible, the resilience of a community can be enhanced by a modified status quo approach in which elements are maintained regularly and rebuilt to the current design standards when they experience significant damage.
A STUDY OF ADAPTATION CAPACITY OF COASTAL DISASTERS DUE TO CLIMATE CHANGE IN ORDER TO STRENGTHEN SOUTHWEST AREA OF TAIWAN
Authors: Juan Hsiang-Lan , Hsu Tai-Wen , Lan Yuan-Jyh , Lin Yue-Chen , Huang Ching-Jer
Published: December 2012

The adaptive capacity of coastal disasters caused by climate change in order to strengthen southwestern Taiwan against natural calamities in the future is investigated in this paper. In Taiwan, the coastal zone suffers from approximately four typhoons each year, and the exceptionally high sea levels caused by storm surges frequently results in coastal disasters and hinders the development of the coastal area. The problems of rising sea levels and frequent typhoons induced by climate change have threatened the Taiwanese coastal environments. These influences as well as serious land subsidence upon a scenario year were carried out in the coastal areas near the cities of Chiayi and Tainan in Taiwan. The present study focuses on the construction of the disaster characteristics on Chiayi and Tainan Coasts, model establishment for situation analysis of water environmental factors, impact estimation and indefinite analysis on disasters, and vulnerability and risk estimation of coastal disasters. An understanding of the marine and meteorological characteristics in coastal zones is conducive to raising the efficiency of the defense against coastal disasters. These results could provide useful information to establish strategies to implement as well as how to analyze the benefits of such a program.
A METHODOLOGY FOR TSUNAMI HAZARD AND RISK ASSESSMENT: APPLICATION TO THE COASTAL AREA OF EL SALVADOR
Authors: González-Riancho Calzada Pino , González Rodríguez Mauricio , Gutierrez Gutierrez Omar , García-Aguilar Oscar , Aniel-Quiroga Iñigo , Aguirre-Ayerbe Ignacio , Lvarez Jose Antonio , Gavidia Francisco , Jaimes Ivonne , Larreynaga Jeniffer
Published: December 2012

Advances in the understanding and prediction of tsunami impacts allow the development of adaptation and mitigation strategies to reduce risk on coastal areas. This work, funded by the Spanish Agency for International Development Cooperation (AECID) during the period 2009-2012, presents a comprehensive methodology for tsunami risk assessment at any coastal area worldwide applied specifically in this case to the coast of El Salvador.
COASTAL HABITATS WITHIN FLOOD RISK ASSESSMENTS: ROLE OF THE 2D SPR APPROACH
Authors: Narayan Siddharth , Nicholls Robert J , Trifonova Ekaterina , Filipova - Marinova Mariana , Kotsev Iliyan , Vergiev Stoyan , Hanson Susan , Clarke Derek
Published: December 2012

Coastal habitats are highly threatened ecosystems that are sensitive to complex sets of natural and human drivers. Europe's coastal habitats are protected from damage due to human activity by the EU Habitats Directive, and are required to be mapped within flood risk assessments by the EU Floods Directive. Ecological vulnerability and risk assessments are a common way of assessing the impacts on these habitats due to human and natural drivers. Coastal flood risk assessments therefore often include assessments of the vulnerability of coastal habitats. Flood risk assessments also evaluate, where relevant, the mitigation services provided by coastal habitats. The two aspects of coastal habitats - their flood mitigation service and their ecological vulnerability are strongly correlated; however these are usually treated separately within flood risk assessments. One of the goals of the EU THESEUS project is the integrated consideration of coastal habitats within flood risk assessments. This paper investigates the integration within flood risk assessments of the two aspects of coastal habitats using the 2D SPR conceptual model. The construction of the model is first illustrated by application to a generic study site. The model is then applied to a case-study where data on habitat elevations and vulnerabilities to flood events have been collected. The model provides a unique and robust means of combining information on ecological vulnerability indices for different habitat associations with information on their distribution and spatial relationships within the coastal floodplain. Used in conjunction with information on habitat vulnerability indices, the conceptual model serves as a powerful tool for integrated and structured consideration of coastal habitats within flood risk assessments
DESTRUCTION MECHANISM OF COASTAL LEVEES ON THE SENDAI BAY COAST HIT BY THE 2011 TSUNAMI
Authors: Mano Akira , Tanaka Hitoshi , Udo Keiko
Published: December 2012

A mega tsunami hit the Sendai Bay Coast on March 11, 2011, overtopped coastal levees and intruded into far inland while sweeping houses, people and others away. Eighty percent of the levees which rimmed the coast to protect the land from storm surges together with the wind waves were broken in various degrees of damage by the tsunami. The national and local governments decided to rebuild the levees to be durable even for mega tsunamis. This requirement motivates us to find the destruction mechanism of the coastal levees. We conducted field investigations and collected the tsunami records, aerial photos and tsunami videos. Especially, the video taken from the helicopter "Michinokugo" which flew along the Sendai Coast to the south during the attack of the tsunami's leading wave enables us to see the breaking process. Integrated analysis leads to two step mechanisms of the destruction: the first step of breaking the upper structure of the levees by the surging bore of the leading wave and the second step of expanding erosion by the return flow concentration.
THE UK'S FIRST CLIMATE CHANGE RISK ASSESSMENT AND THE IMPLICATIONS FOR THE COAST
Authors: Townend Ian Howard , Panzeri Michael , Ramsbottom David , Townend Ian , Wade Steven
Published: December 2012

In 2008 the Climate Change Act was passed into law in the UK. This provides a legally binding framework for reducing carbon emissions. Much of the focus of the Act is on reducing emissions and hence on mitigation measures, however, the Act also requires a risk assessment to be undertaken every five years. The assessment of the risks (including opportunities) from climate change has to address those things that have social, environmental and economic value in the UK. The objective is to create an enabling environment in which the capacity to adapt can be developed in an informed manner and identify priorities for Government action. The risk assessment informs the National Adaptation Programme and will be updated every five years. This paper outlines the method of analysis, presents some results and draws some conclusions, with particular reference to those aspects that are likely to be of interest to the coastal community.
RISK ASSESSMENT METHODOLOGY AT ISLA DEL CARMEN, MEXICO
Authors: Escudero Castillo Mireille , Mendoza Baldwin Edgar , Silva Casarín Rodolfo
Published: December 2012

Extreme hydro-meteorological phenomena lead annually to serious damage and losses in the coastal zone of Isla del Carmen, on the Gulf of Mexico. The importance of the risk assessment is the possibility of preventing or reducing those harmful effects. In this context, an integrated risk assessment approach is performed based on the source-pathway-receptor concept to assess the flooding risk in the area. The paper analyses the consequences on the dune ecosystem that extends longitudinally along the island; and the effects on the population, infrastructure and natural habitat located next to the beach. The results of the study will be used to define the zones with a higher level of risk and to propose flood risk mitigation measures. Moreover, the study will contribute to the establishment of specific legislation which supports the protection of the coastal dune.
REAL-TIME ASSESSMENT OF WAVE AND SURGE RISK DUE TO LANDFALLING HURRICANES
Authors: Taflanidis Alexandros Angfelos , Kennedy Andrew B. , Westerink Joannes J. , Smith Jane McKee , Kijewski-Correa Tracy , Cheung Kwok Fai
Published: December 2012

In this work, a probabilistic framework is presented for real-time assessment of wave and surge risk for hurricanes approaching landfall. This framework has two fundamental components. The first is the development of a surrogate model for the rapid evaluation of hurricane waves, water levels, and runup based on a small number of parameters describing each hurricane: hurricane landfall location and heading, central pressure, forward speed, and radius of maximum winds. This surrogate model is developed using a response surface methodology fed by information from hundreds of pre-computed, high-fidelity model runs. For a specific set of hurricane parameters (i.e., a specific landfalling hurricane), the surrogate model is able to evaluate the maximum wave height, water level, and runup during the storm at a cost that is more than seven orders of magnitude less than the high fidelity models and thus meet time constraints imposed by emergency managers and decision makers. The second component to this framework is a description of the uncertainty in the parameters used to characterize the hurricane, through appropriate probability models, which then leads to quantification of hurricane-risk in terms of a probabilistic integral. This integral is then efficiently computed using the already established surrogate model by analyzing thousands of different scenarios (based on the aforementioned probabilistic description). Finally, by leveraging the computational simplicity and efficiency of the surrogate model, a simple stand-alone PC-based risk assessment tool is developed that allows non-expert end users to take advantage of the full potential of the framework. An illustrative example is presented that considers applications of these tools for hurricane risk estimation for Oahu. The development of cyber-infrastructure at the University of Notre Dame to further support these initiatives is also discussed.
CLIMATE CHANGE AND COASTAL DEFENCES IN TOKYO BAY
Authors: Hoshino Sayaka , Esteban Miguel , Mikami Takahito , Takabatake Tomoyuki , Shibayama Tomoya
Published: December 2012

Sea level rise and an increase in typhoon intensity are two of the expected consequences from future climate change. In the present work a methodology to change the intensity of tropical cyclones in Japan was developed, which can be used to assess the inundation risk to different areas of the country. An example of how this would affect one of the worst typhoons to hit the Tokyo Bay area in the 20th century was thus developed, highlighting the considerable dangers associated with this event, and how current sea defences could be under danger of failing by the end of the 21st century.
A NEW METHOD OF APPROACHING EXTREME STORM EVENTS FOR DESIGN LEVEL OR RISK ANALYSIS
Authors: Goennert Gabriele , Gerkensmeier Birgit
Published: December 2012

The North Sea coast is seriously threatened by storm surges. Climate change and its consequences, such as a rising sea level, will have serious effects on the safety of people and economic assets in coastal areas. Within the joint research project XtremRisK (bmbf-funded) the Agency of roads bridges and Waters of the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg developed a new method to calculate extreme storm surge events. The purpose of the research work, to calculated physically feasible extreme events is given consideration by detailed analyses of the single storm-surge components (tide, external surge from the Atlantic and wind surge) and their non-linear interactions by combining deterministic-empirical, statistical and numerical methods. The non-linear interactions can be comprised by hydrodynamic equations such as equation of momentum, continuity equation and volume balance. The claim to develop a comprehensive and physically feasible method is satisfied by the diversity of methodical approaches for analyzing the storm surge components and their interaction processes. Therefore a 2-method concept is developed on the basis of empirical and numerical approaches. The resultant new method is a new way of calculating extreme storm surges and can be used within new design concepts to calculate design level heights or could be a part of risk analysis
ADAPTING COASTS TO CLIMATIC FUTURES. AN AUSTRALIAN PERSPECTIVE
Authors: Sano Marcello , Baum Scott , Bussey Marcus , Carter RW Bill , Crick Florence , Golshani Aliasghar , Low Choy Darryl , Richards Russell , Roiko Anne , Serrao-Neumann Silvia , Splinter Kristen , Smith Timothy F , Tomlinson Rodger
Published: December 2012

In coastal management under climatic pressures, the final aim of vulnerability assessments, system thinking or scenario planning exercises is to inform the identification of the most appropriate adaptation options for communities under risk of coastal hazards and climate change. In this paper we show how we combined these techniques for coastal settlements adaptation in South East Queensland, one of the most populated Australian regions, including: (i) the use of suburb-level mapping and numerical modelling to identify and assess vulnerability hotspots (ii) the development and testing of systems thinking and bayesian modelling techniques to explore adaptation pathways and the adaptive capacity of coastal communities and (iii) the use of scenario planning techniques to test adaptation options in an uncertain future. We show how these outcomes were used to develop a range of research-based adaptation policies, programs and actions and to inform the preparation of practical guidance for councils across Queensland.
SEA LEVEL RISE IMPACT ASSESSMENT AND MITIGATION ALTERNATIVES DEVELOPMENT FOR BALBOA ISLANDS, CITY OF NEWPORT BEACH, CALIFORNIA
Authors: Poon Ying , Sanders Brett , Mason Randy , Stein Robert
Published: December 2012

The City of Newport Beach (City), a highly developed, densely populated coastal city in southern California is periodically subject to flooding from coincident high tides and waves. To prepare for sea level rise and potential flood damages, the City initiated a study to assess the potential flood impact to Balboa Island and Little Balboa Island. A 2D flood simulation model is utilized to investigate the effect of high tides occurring with increased sea levels, and a simple wave overtopping model is proposed to account for the effect of wind waves and ocean swells. The results of the flood model simulations were used to help the City to formulate flood inundation mitigation alternatives.
BASIC EXAMINATION OF FUTURE CHANGE OF TROPICAL CYCLONE AND STORM SURGE PROPERTIES UNDER CLIMATE CHANGE
Authors: Nakajo Sota , Mori Nobuhito , Yasuda Tomohiro , Mase Hajime
Published: December 2012

Recently high-resolution Global Climate Model (GCM) shows that global climate changes may cause the future change of the Tropical Cyclone (TC) characteristics, such as frequency, developing process and intensity. However, there are two difficulties for assessment of future TC disaster, one is uncertainty of future prediction in GCM, and another is shortage of sample TC data. In this paper, we estimated future changes of TC properties and reduced uncertainty by ensemble averaging of multi-GCM prediction results, and generated many synthetic TC data with Global Stochastic Tropical Cyclone Model (GSTCM). In addition, GSTCM which have empirical temporal correlation algorithm was improved for the reproducibility of arrival TC statistics by cluster analysis of TC data. This upgrade could pave the way to local future prediction of TC disaster.
COMBINING COASTAL DESIGN-FLOOD ELEVATIONS AND SEA LEVEL RISE PROJECTIONS
Authors: Houston James
Published: December 2012

Design-flood elevations with associated exceedance probabilities are often determined for coastal projects. Rising sea level introduces another design consideration that needs to be combined with the design-flood level. However, most sea level projections do not have exceedance probabilities that can be used in conjunction with the design flood to obtain total flood elevations with exceedance probabilities. This paper shows how to combine design-flood elevations with sea level rise projections that have exceedance probabilities, such as those of the Intergovernmental Panel for Climate Change (Bindoff et al 2007) or Houston (2012a), to obtain total elevations at desired exceedance probabilities over particular intervals.
ASSESSMENT OF THE REGIONAL FREQUENCY ANALYSIS TO THE ESTIMATION OF EXTREME STORM SURGES
Authors: Weiss Jérôme , Bernardara Pietro , Benoit Michel
Published: December 2012

Regional frequency analysis (RFA) is performed to estimate extreme storm surges along the French coasts of the Atlantic Ocean, the English Channel and the Southern part of the North Sea. An insight on the formation of physically homogeneous regions from a criterion of propagation of storms is provided. The treatment of the pairwise dependence structure within a given region through a spatial extreme value copula is also considered, leading to a model coupling physically-based RFA and spatial dependence to describe the probabilistic behavior of extreme storm surges.
DECISION MAKING UNDER UNCERTAINTY IN COASTAL ZONE MANAGEMENT
Authors: Félix Angélica , Baquerizo Asunción , Santiago Juan Manuel , Losada Miguel ngel
Published: December 2012

We analyze decision making under uncertainty in a search for an integral management solution for Playa Granada in the Guadalfeo River Delta (Granada, Spain), where the construction of a dam in the river basin is causing severe erosion. Different management strategies are considered. For each of them the assessment of the uncertainty in the accomplishment of the management targets is done with a methodology that takes into account the coupled action of atmosphere, ocean, and land agents and their intrinsic stochastic character. This information is used to infer the joint distribution function of three criteria that represent the economic benefit of different interest groups. A stochastic multicriteria decision method that accounts for the uncertainty in the performances of alternatives and also in decision makers preferences, is used to rank strategies according to their effectiveness in an informed and transparent process.
PRELIMINARY DESIGN OF DECISION SUPPORT SYSTEM FOR CHINESE SEADIKE SAFETY MANAGEMENT
Authors: Zuo Qihua , Zhou Zhengping , Chi Wang , Feng Sun , Hongchuan Wang
Published: December 2012

A Decision Support System for Chinese Seadike Safety Management (DSS-CSSM) based on Geographic Information System (GIS) and database technology is initially proposed and designed in this paper. DSS-CSSM contains three major parts, which are fundamental information database, risk analysis module and hazard assessment module. Kinds of numerical and physical model methods can be selected and used in the modules. With integration of the fundamental information, analysis models and appropriate Human Computer Interaction(HCI), DSS-CSSM can be used to help people evaluate hazard losses of Chinese seadike and make some effective decisions.
OUTLIER SENSITIVITY ON THE SEA EXTREMES BY THE TEMPORAL AND CLIMATE INDEX COVARIATIONS
Authors: Kitano Toshikazu , Kioka Wataru , Takahashi Rinya
Published: December 2012

Outlier detection is one of the classical problem in the regression analysis. For this purpose the Cook's distance was proposed as the amount of changing the predictions by removing the candidate outlier in comparison with the total variation of the residuals against the fitting plane. This distance is considered to be so useful that it is rearranged and discribed in the two terms of the leverage of covariates and the contingent discrepancy. Hence the outlier detection can be displayed as a diagram with these two terms. Extremes generally accompanies outliers. Unfortunately the Cook's distance wouldn't be applicable to the outlier among the extremes. It is one of the reason that the extreme value distribution doesn't belong to the exponential family. Thus we should find the alternative way. The degree of experience, proposed originally for evaluating the limitation of extrapolation, will play an important role of detecting the outliers, because it is decomposed into two parts of the leverage of covariates and the contingent discrepancy in the average sense. Not only the mathematical derivations are shown but also a practical judgement for the removal of outliers is demonstrated in a diagram of leverage and residual of extremes.
COASTAL ENGINEERING EDUCATION AND COASTAL MODELS
Authors: Kamphuis J. William
Published: December 2012

This paper discusses how coastal engineers are educated and how that must be changed in order to be able to meet the future demands for coastal engineers. It also addresses the use of coastal models as a vital tool to demonstrate concepts and processes that are not innately familiar to the students.
ASSESSMENT OF COASTAL DEVELOPMENT IMPACTS ON CORAL ECOSYSTEMS IN NAIBAND BAY, THE PERSIAN GULF
Authors: Razavi Arab Azadeh , Danehkar Afshin , Haghshenas S. Abbas , Ebrahimi Gita B.
Published: December 2012

This paper presents an application of Sediment Constituent Analysis (SCA) method to sediment samples taken particularly from the Naiband Bay, the Persian Gulf, to assess current conditions of the coral ecosystem in this area which has been affected by the ongoing developments in the neighboring South Pars Oil Field as well as construction a new port at Haleh in the south east corner of the bay.
BREAKS AND LONG TERM TRENDS OF TIDAL CHARACTERISTICS IN THE SOUTHERN GERMAN BIGHT
Authors: Jenning Sabine , Hein Hartmut , Mai Stephan , Schuttrumpf Holger
Published: December 2012

The recent influence of climate change and land subsidence on the water levels and tidal characteristics in the German Bight is documented by regional tide gauge observations. However, in any long time series the chance arises that measurement conditions may change over time. Some of these changes occur instantaneously like the change of the sensor or corrections of the zero-point of the gauge. Other changes occur subtly, such as alterations of the regional morphology and therefore the mode of behavior at the measurement site. We present long-term changes of tidal characteristics in the waterways of the southern German Bight, by detecting abrupt breakpoints and resulting homogenized trends. In order to understand processes of the changes of the tidal characteristics significant trends in the time series for measured and calculated tidal parameters are analyzed.
AN INTEGRATED MODELING APPROACH FOR SIMULATING OIL SPILL AT THE STRAIT OF BOHAI SEA
Authors: Wang Jinhua , Zhang Jinshan
Published: December 2012

A three-dimensional integrated model is developed for simulating oil spills transport and fate in seas. The model contains two main modules, flow and transport-fate module. The transport module uses an unstructured finite volume wave-current coupling model, giving a more accurate result compared to structured model, especially for a region has a complex coastline. In the transport-fate module the oil dispersion is solved using a particle-tracking method. Horizontal diffusion is simulated using a random walk techniques in a Monte Carlo framework while vertical diffusion process is solved based on the Langeven equation. The model simulates the most significant processes which affect the motion of oil particles, such as: advection, surface spreading, evaporation, dissolution, emulsification, and turbulent diffusion, the interaction of the oil particles with the shoreline, sedimentation and the temporal variations of oil viscosity, density, and surface-tension. This model has been applied to simulate the oil spill accident at the strait of Bohai Sea. In comparison with the observations, the numerical results indicate that the model is reasonably accurate.
DREDGING OPTIMIZATION OF AN INLET SYSTEM FOR ADJACENT SHORE PROTECTION PROJECTS USING CMS AND GENCADE
Authors: Beck Tanya M. , Legault Kelly
Published: December 2012

St. Johns County encompasses a 24-km beach and inlet system located in northeast Florida (United States) that includes several interconnected Federal Navigation and Shore Protection Projects that must be managed within a regional context to reduce cost, share sediment, and optimize the volume of sand within the littoral system. The objective of this study is to investigate optimal dredging volumes and intervals, and to determine the beach placement volume and renourishment interval to maintain two Shore Protection Projects. The Coastal Modeling System (CMS) was applied to analyze the morphological impact on the sediment dynamics for ebb-tidal delta mining at St. Augustine Inlet over 1.4-year simulations. Results determined that dredging scenarios under 4 Mill cu yd removed did not significantly modify the ebb-tidal delta. The CMS modeling results on sustainable dredging volumes, combined with historical infilling rates, provided constraints with which to develop dredging and beach fill scenarios for GenCade, a 1-D numerical model that predicts shoreline change. GenCade was applied to evaluate sediment management alternatives for dredging intervals of 5, 7 and 10 years, and varying beach fill volumes and placement lengths. Results indicate that imposing a 10-year dredging interval to the navigation project and ebb delta with the maximum dredging quantity of 3 million cubic yards will yield the best performance of the regional projects of St. Johns County. GenCade calculates future sediment budgets for various management scenarios, and can provide an essential benefit in determining optimal dredging periods for coordinated regional efforts to save in mobilization and demobilization costs for dredging and beach fill placement.
CENTURY-SCALE SHORELINE CHANGES OF FIVE BEACHES IN JAPAN
Authors: Yoshida Jun , Udo Keiko , Takeda Yuriko , Mano Akira
Published: December 2012

Coastal erosion caused by sea level rise is a serious problem for people all over the world. Global sea level will rise from 0.18 to 0.59 m (IPCC, 2007). Along the coasts in Japan, sea level will rise from 0.09 to 0.27 m by the end of this century. The future estimation considers only thermal expansion due to rising sea temperature caused by global warming. However, considering the contribution of scale-down of Greenland and Antarctic ice sheet, there is potential of the increase in the rate of sea level rise. There are few studies which evaluate impacts of the future beach erosion on society by comparing with the past shoreline change resulting from natural forces and human activities. This study evaluates the long-term shoreline changes due to natural forces and human activities by using old maps. Shoreline changes were influenced by natural forces from 1900 to 1950 and were influenced by human activities from 1950 to 1990. Shoreline changes showed that the changes tended to be stable after 1990, and coastal erosion due to climate change would likely become obvious in the future.
EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON THE DISCHARGE CHARACTERISTICS OF SLUICE FOR TIDAL POWER PLANT
Authors: Oh Sang-Ho , Lee Kwang Soo , Lee Dal Soo
Published: December 2012

The discharge characteristics of sluice caisson for tidal power plant were investigated by carrying out a physical experiment in a planar open channel. The experiment was performed by installing 10 sluice models whose scale was 1/70 of the prototype in the planar open channel, where apron sections were made in front of and behind the sluice models to reproduce the field condition. The locations and method of measuring water levels were carefully determined so as to accurately estimate the discharge coefficient, an index of representing the discharge performance of the sluice caisson. The experimental results for various conditions of flow rates and water levels showed that the discharge coefficient of the sluice caisson was in the range of 1.3 to 1.47. These values were substantially smaller than those obtained from the previous study performed in a two-dimensional open channel (Lee et al., 2010). As the previous study had some limitations in reproducing the bathymetric and flow conditions in the field, it is more recommended to use the results acquired in the present experiment.
COASTAL DEFENCE EVALUATION: AN SPRC APPROACH
Authors: Reeve Dominic , Horrillo-Caraballo Jose M. , Fox Andrew , Simmonds Dave , Kwan Sum , Pan Shunqi , Greaves Deborah
Published: December 2012

In this paper, we show how the methodology based on the Source-Pathway-Receptor-Consequence (SPRC) approach can be used to identify the risks of flooding and erosion. The methodology is applied to the Teign Estuary in Devon, UK to define the linkages between physical loads (waves, tides), sea defences, areas liable to flooding and the impacts of flooding.
BEHAVIOR OF FISH REEF BLOCKS FALLING THROUGH WATER
Authors: Mitsui Jun , Ogata Shin-ichi , Shibata Sanae , Matsumoto Akira , Yamamoto Masato
Published: December 2012

An accurate and economical placement method for fish reef blocks utilizing free fall in the deep sea area is presented in this paper. Falling behavior of concrete blocks in water was investigated by hydraulic model experiments and 3-D numerical computations. As a result, a new fish reef block which falls through water with highly stable behavior was developed. The distribution range of the developed block on the sea bottom was predicted by a stochastic model and it was proved to be sufficiently narrow. In addition, a quick estimation method for the placement position was developed to determine the release point of the block in actual construction. By using hydrodynamic force coefficients to evaluate the forces acting on the block, the method can estimate the falling behavior of the block in a flow field with sufficient accuracy and in a short time.
STUDY ON INFLUENCE OF BAIMAO SANDBANK CONTROL PROJECT IN SOUTHERN BRANCH OF THE YANGTZE RIVER ESTUARY, CHINA
Authors: Zhang Xinzhou , Dou Xiping , Zhang Jinshan
Published: December 2012

The author establishes the Yangtze estuary 2D tidal and sediment mathematical model based on the orthogonal curvilinear coordinate system. The erosion and siltation of engineering section under the hydrological conditions of flood season, dry season and the great flood after the Baimao Sand control engineering is calculated. Preliminarily expounds the correlation of Baimao Sand and Biandan Sand and the impact of Biandan Sand after the Baimao Sand control engineering is implemented.
IMPACT ASSESSMENT OF EXTREME STORM EVENTS USING A BAYESIAN NETWORK
Authors: Heijer C. (Kees) den , Knipping Dirk T.J.A. , Plant Nathaniel G. , Thiel de Vries Jaap S.M. van , Baart Fedor , Gelder Pieter H.A.J.M. van
Published: December 2012

This paper describes an investigation on the usefulness of Bayesian Networks in the safety assessment of dune coasts. A network has been created that predicts the erosion volume based on hydraulic boundary conditions and a number of cross-shore profile indicators. Field measurement data along a large part of the Dutch coast has been used to train the network. Corresponding storm impact on the dunes was calculated with an empirical dune erosion model named duros+. Comparison between the Bayesian Network predictions and the original duros+ results, here considered as observations, results in a skill up to 0.88, provided that the training data covers the range of predictions. Hence, the predictions from a deterministic model (duros+) can be captured in a probabilistic model (Bayesian Network) such that both the process knowledge and uncertainties can be included in impact and vulnerability assessments.
THE EXPANSION OF THE PORT OF HANSTHOLM - THE FUTURE CONDITIONS FOR A BYPASS HARBOUR
Authors: Christensen Bo Brahtz , Deigaard Rolf , Br¸ker Ida , Kærgaard Kasper , Hansen Asger Bendix , Dr¸nen Nils , Helkjær Anders , Gravesen Helge
Published: December 2012

As part of the investigations for a major expansion of the Port of Hanstholm a series of hydraulic studies were carried out involving: field measurements of waves and currents, establishment of design conditions for waves and currents, analysis of the wave disturbance, laboratory tests of breakwater stability, analysis of the future conditions for sediment bypass and sedimentation and possible impact on the surrounding coastlines. In this paper the extensive sediment studies made by application of numerical modelling is described.
APPLICATION OF VIDEO IMAGES FOR MONITORING COASTAL ZONE IN HASAKI BEACH, JAPAN
Authors: Zikra Muhammad , Hashimoto Noriaki , Yamashiro Masaru , Yokota Masaki , Suzuki Kojiro
Published: December 2012

The video image analysis methods are used for monitoring the phenomena at the coastal zone. A digital video camera which is mounted in the HORS research building is used to estimate directional wave spectra and bathymetry in shallow water areas. The Bayesian Directional Method is used to estimate directional wave spectra using the group of pixels brightness and non-linear bathymetry inversion is used to estimate shallow water bathymetry using time series of pixel brightness intensity at cross-shore and longshore array. The results are compared with a numerical model and field measurements. The results indicate that video image data could be used to estimate bathymetry and directional wave spectra in shallow water areas.
ESTIMATING FLUVIAL DISCHARGE IN THE CARIBBEAN SEABOARD OF COLOMBIA: MAGNITUDE, VARIABILITY AND EXTREME EVENTS
Authors: Restrepo Juan Camilo , Ortíz Juan Carlos , Maza Mauro , Otero Luís , Alvarado Manuel , Aguirre Julían
Published: December 2012

Monthly freshwater discharge data of ten rivers draining into the Caribbean Sea in the northern of Colombia (Caribbean alluvial plain) are analyzed. The data are used to quantify the magnitude, to estimate long-term trends, and to evaluate variability patterns of freshwater discharges into the ocean. These Colombian rivers contribute with ~340.9 km3 yr-1 of freshwater into the Caribbean Sea. The Magdalena River delivers the largest discharge, with a mean discharge at Calamar of 205.5 km3 yr-1 which represents 26% of the total fluvial discharge into this basin. From 2000 to 2010 the annual streamflow of these rivers rose up three fold. However, only the Mulatos, Canal del Dique, Magdalena, and Fundación Rivers have significant statistical upward trends. The concurrence of the major oscillation processes and the maximum power of the 3-7 year fluctuation defined a period of intense hydrological activity around 1998-2002. Wavelet spectrum analysis indicated a change in the variability patterns of fluvial systems between 2000 and 2010, characterized by a shift toward a domain of quasi-decadal processes (8-12 years). The Intertropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ), ENSO events, and quasi-decadal climate processes (e.g. sea surface temperatures over tropical North Atlantic, Pacific Decadal Oscillation) are the main factors controlling fluvial discharge variability of these fluvial systems.
ONLINE OPERATIONAL EARLY WARNING SYSTEM PROTOTYPES TO FORECAST COASTAL STORM IMPACTS (CEWS)
Authors: Haerens Piet , Ciavola Paolo , Ferreira Óscar , Van Dongeren Ap , Van Koningsveld Mark , Bolle Annelies
Published: December 2012

Extreme coastal storms have a destructive impact on coastal areas and directly affect people living in the coastal zone, being this emphasized by recent events (e.g. Katrina, Xynthia) which reminded the world of the vulnerability of coastal areas. The economic constraints and the increasing vulnerability of coastal areas (due to sea level rise and to increased occupation) make it impossible to continue with a coastal zone management strategy based solely on engineering schemes to protect vulnerable coastal areas across Europe. Development tools and methods that improve today's forecasting, prediction and early warning capabilities in order to improve the assessment of coastal vulnerability and risks are strongly needed and should be part of future prevention, mitigation and preparedness measures. Within the MICORE project online operational storm early warning systems (CEWSs) using open-source models and tools for reliable predictions of the morphological impact of marine storm events were developed and demonstrated. The system makes use of existing off-the-shelf models as well as a state of the art open-source morphological model (XBeach). The project specifically targeted the development of early warning and information systems to support a short term emergency response in case of an extreme storm event (CEWS). The current paper describes the applied system architecture, the model set-up and the storm impact indicator (SII) oriented approach. It also highlights the need for further developments and application.