bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Bacterial Polymers: Physicochemical Aspects of Their Interactions at Interfaces
Authors: Neu Thomas R. , Marshall Kevin C.
Published: January 2008

How do bacteria stick to a surface? There is still not enough information about to answer this question especially at the molecular level. This question only gives rise to more questions. What is the structure of the true adhesive bacterial polymer? Is only one bacterial polymer or several polymers involved in the adhesion process? What is the role of proteins associated with the bacterial polysaccharides? What type of polymer is produced for the adhesion to hydrophobic surfaces? Is the polymer produced as a response to the surface ?

This review is an attempt to summarize the physicochemical aspects of bacterial polymers and their interaction with surfaces. It was tried to give an overview of the literature published in this field. The article is divided into the following sections: first, the forces involved in bacterial adhesion are described. Second, the theoretical approaches to bacterial adhesion are discussed. Third, different fluid conditions are investigated. Fourth, the nature of different bacterial polymers which are important for the interaction with a surface is elaborated. Fifth, the current knowledge about biological polymers at interfaces is shown. And sixth, the role of polymers in the adhesion of bacteria available to date is highlighted.
Surface Proteins of Coagulase-Negative Staphylococci: Their Role in Adherence to Biomaterials and in Opsonization
Authors: Fleer A. , Timmerman C.P. , Besnier J.M. , Pascual A. , Verhoef J.
Published: January 2008

During the last decade coagulase-negative staphylococci (CN-Staph) have clearly emerged as pathogens in patients equipped with foreign devices. This has fuelled the interest in these bacteria considerably and as a result, knowledge of the biology of CN-Staph as well as insight into the pathogenesis of biomaterial-associated infections due to these bacteria are rapidly expanding.

Adherence of bacteria to biomaterials is a necessary step in the process of these infections.

Evidence is accumulating that surface proteins of CN-Staph are essential in the early phases of adherence to biomaterials.

By using monoclonal antibodies in immunoblotting and immune electron micrography we have identified a cell wall protein complex apparently located on the surface of CN-Staph and involved in adherence to biomaterials. Further studies will be oriented at characterization of the protein adhesin(s) and at identification of the surface structures with which the adhesion is associated.
Adhesion and Stability of Blood Cells onto Polymer Substrates: Effect of Glow Discharge
Authors: Sharma Chandra P. , Hari P.R.
Published: January 2008

The adhesion of platelets, red blood cells, and lymphocytes onto various polymer substrates, hydrophobic to hydrophilic in nature, has been studied. Cell adhesion is found to be higher on hydrophilic substrates. The stability of these adhered cells has also been studied under a flow rate of 20 ml/min. Further the effect of glow discharge treatment onto various substrates is investigated. It seems the stability is more on glow discharge treated substrates due to increased surface free energy.
Bioactive Polymers 54. Pharmacological Properties of Modified Neomycin
Authors: Dumitriu Severian , Popa Marcel , Dumitriu Maria , Vancea Petre , Mungiu Ostin C. , Costin Danut , Dumitriu Daniela
Published: January 2008

Modified neomycin prepared by the ionic coupling on xanthan with an activity of 380 UI/mg was characterized in regard to its in vitro and in vivo release rate and therapeutic action with artificial tear eluent. The dynamic system in vitro release showed that after 4 h, there appears a "zero-order" kinetic. Ophthalmic inserts were prepared from modified neomycin and they are used in treating bacterial conjunctivitis. Sterilization of the conjunctival sac is obtained 12 h after insert administration.
Quantification of Vascular Ingrowth into Dacron® Velour
Authors: Estridge Trudy D. , Feldman Dale S.
Published: January 2008

Evaluation of vascular ingrowth into Dacron® velour was performed to compare methods and to determine the amount of vascular ingrowth. Microcasting and direct measurement were compared based on their ability to quantify ingrowth, the type of information obtainable, and the time required for data acquisition. Microcasting did not produce results indicative of the actual vascular ingrowth; however, direct measurement of histological slides gave quantifiable data for comparing vascular ingrowth.
Hydrogel Grafted Surfaces: Protein Interaction and Platelet Adhesion
Authors: Hari P.R. , Sharma Chandra P.
Published: January 2008

The blood compatibility of an artificial polymeric implant largely depends on the physicochemical nature of the polymer substrate. In the present study our aim is to develop an understanding of polymer surfaces having similar surface free energy, but different chemical characteristics. We attempted to graft hydrogels onto a silastic polyurethane (Angioflex) material and optimised the surface free energy to about 35.0 ergs/cm2. We compared the protein adsorption and platelet and lymphocyte adhesion on these surfaces. It is observed that there is a relative change in behavior because of the difference in chemical nature.
Trends in the Development of Bioresorbable Polymers for Medical Applications
Authors: Pulapura Satish , Kohn Joachim
Published: January 2008

The gradual shift from biostable prostheses to degradable, temporary implants represents one of the most significant trends in biomaterials research. In view of this trend, medical applications of degradable implant materials were reviewed with special emphasis on orthopedic polymeric implants. Among the polymeric implant materials derived from natural sources, collagen, various polysaccharides such as cellulose, and microbial polyesters have been intensively investigated. Among the synthetic, degradable polymers, aliphatic polyesters such as poly(glycolic acid), poly(lactic acid), poly(caprolactone) and polydioxanone, are most commonly investigated. Only recently, several new classes of polymers such as poly(ortho esters), polyanhydrides, and degradable polycarbonates have been introduced as potential implant materials. A particularly versatile group of new biomaterials with promising engineering properties are the "pseudo"-poly(amino acids), amino acid derived polymers in which conventional peptide bonds have been replaced by various chemical linkages.
Bioactive Polymers: In Vitro and In Vivo Study of Controlled Release Neomycin
Authors: Dumitriu Severian , Dumitriu Maria , Dimitriu Stefan M. , Turcu Tatiana , Grigore Lucia , Dumitriu Daniela , Iacob Monica
Published: January 2008

Neomycin is coupled on xanthan—a polysaccharide of microbial biosynthesis produced by Xanthomonas campestris -through ionic complexation. The kinetics of neomycin release, in vitro, at pH = 8.2 is studied. A controlled release of neomycin, following a zero order kinetics is observed, regardless of the eluent flow. Neomycin complexed on xanthan, administered in a unique daily dose to patients suffering from disentery in the 100 cases taken in study, has shown a high clinical efficiency as compared with the treatments with ampicillin or furazolidone, administered for 5-10 days or longer.
Non-Thrombogenicity by Novel Surface Modification Methods
Authors: Ito Yoshihiro , Imanishi Yukio
Published: January 2008

Three novel methods, recently developed by us, for the synthesis of non-thrombogenetic materials were reviewed. The first was the utilization of poly(vinyl sulfonate) as a heparinoid and a newly synthesized polymerizable-thrombin-inhibitor. The chemicals were grafted onto the surfaces of materials. The second was the use of thrombin-substrate-analog peptide. The immobilized peptide was decomposed by blood coagulation factors and inhibited thrombus formation on the surface. The third method was the enhancement of endothelialization by immobilization of biosignal molecules. The immobilized biosignals remarkedly accelerated the growth of endothelial cells.
Polymeric Membranes for Silicon Based (Bio)Sensors
Authors: Arquint PH , Van Den Berg A. , Strike D.J. , De Rooij N.F. , Koudelka-Hep M.
Published: January 2008

During the last decade, chemical and biochemical sensor research has benefited from the availability of new technologies and materials. New embodiments of classical devices have resulted from the use of e.g., solid state technology for the realization of the transducers. In this paper we describe several examples of membrane deposition techniques used in connection with planar, silicon based electrochemical transducers. Casting and electrochemical deposition of glucose oxidase containing membranes are described for the fabrication of glucose enzyme electrodes. Photolithographic patterning of polyacrylamide hydrogel and of siloxane based gas permeable membrane is used for the realization of an amperometric oxygen sensor and an ISFET-based pCO2 device. The last example is that of a free-chlorine sensor for which the photolithographic patterning of the polyHEMA hydrogel layer is described.
Bioactive Polymers 55. Synthesis and Characterization of a Macromolecular Drug Based on 5-Acetylamino-2-Sulfamoyl-1,3,4-Thiodiazole
Authors: Dumitriu Severian , Popa Marcel , Dărângă Mihai , Dumitriu Cristina
Published: January 2008

The paper studies the coupling reaction by covalent bonding of acetylamino-2-sulfamoyl-1,3,4-thiodiazole (AcAA) on the poly(acrylic acid-co-styrene) copolymer (PAcA-S) in homogeneous system, in the presence of dicyclohexylcarbodiimide (DCC) as activator. The influence of some factors on. coupling efficiency (the drug/support ratio, time, volume of solvent), as well as the mathematical model correlating the amount of coupled drug with these parameters is established. Maximum amounts of drug (28%) are chemically bound when employing maximum values of the parameters mentioned (i.e., AcAA/ PAcA-S ratio = 2 mole/mole; time = 50 h; THF volume = 60 ml). Physicochemical and spectral analyses evidence the existence of some chemical bonds of the -CO-NH-SO2- type between the macromolecular support and the drug. In vivo tests have demonstrated the gradual hydrolysis of the chemical bonds as well as the release of the drug, due to the diuretic effect produced.
Preparation of Poly(2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate)-Collagen Composites
Authors: Štol Miroslav , Smetana Karel
Published: January 2008

Linear and three-dimensional polymer composites were prepared on the basis of poly(2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate)-pHEMA-and collagen. Their biological properties were tested by in vitro as well as in vivo methods. The composite material (unlike pure pHEMA) supported myoblast adhesion as well as their fusion into multinuclear myotubes in vitro. The three-dimensional polymer composites stimulated a new bone formation after their intraosseal implantation in dogs and pigs. The biomaterial itself was degraded in the host organism, in contrast to stable pHEMA.
Protein Adsorption - Effect of External Lubricants at the Interface
Authors: Hari P.R. , Sharma Chandra P.
Published: January 2008

Upon exposure to blood, rapid adsorption of proteins is the initial event at the contacting surface, followed by the adhesion of platelets and other blood components. Surfaces absorbing albumin appear to possess antithrombotic character in discouraging adhesion of platelets. Therefore, for the development of a blood contacting device, the interfacial events are extremely important and need serious investigation. We have attempted to observe the variations in competitive adsorption of fibrinogen and albumin onto the polyetherurethane urea (PEUU) surface in the presence of external lubricant, such as calcium stearate and silicone fluid coating. It seems, in the presence of such mediators, that fibrinogen adsorption is increased relatively with reduction in albumin at the surface.
Biological Interactions: Causes for Risks and Failures of Biomaterials and Devices
Authors: Jayabalan M.
Published: January 2008

Biomaterials and devices have been used in a variety of applications ranging from disposable extracorporeal devices and soft and hard tissue augmentation, to total artificial internal organs. However, there are risks and failures in each application which are a result of undesirable biological interactions. This article deals with various biological interactions in each category of implants and devices used in medical applications.
Bacterial Adhesion to Protein-Coated Hydrogels
Authors: Cook Alonzo D. , Sagers Richard D. , Pitt William G.
Published: January 2008

Extended wear soft contact lenses have been implicated in the increased occurrence of corneal bacterial infections. This research investigated the effects of polymer chemistry, water content, and pre-sorbed proteins upon the adherence of Pseudomonas aeruginosa to model hydrogels with chemistries similar to those of extended wear soft contact lenses. The hydrogels were exposed to washed suspensions of R aeruginosa in a laminar flow cell. Albumin, fibrinogen, desialylated fibrinogen, or mucin were deposited on the hydrogels before exposure to the bacteria. Results showed that with or without protein pre-exposure, bacterial adhesion decreased as water content increased. In the presence of the sorbed protein, the number of adherent bacteria increased by about 45%, and all four proteins caused similar increases in adhesion. Bacterial adhesion was not significantly influenced by the presence of sialic acid residues in the pre-sorbed protein.
Phenyl Alanine, Tryptophan Immobilized Chitosan Beads as Adsorbents for Selective Removal of Immunoproteins
Authors: Beena M.S. , Chandy Thomas , Sharma Chandra P.
Published: January 2008

The use of adsorbents for the treatment of patients suffering from various immune diseases is still in its infancy. Therefore, the development of selective adsorbents for the removal or decrease of immunoproteins from plasma is of great importance.

In this study, chitosan, a natural polysaccharide having structural characteristics similar to glycosamino glycans, which is non-toxic and biocompatible, has been used for protein adsorption studies. Amino acids like phenyl alanine and tryptophan in different ratios are bonded to these polymers to observe immunoadsorption. Several layers of phenyl alanine or tryptophan have been coated covalently on chitosan beads using N2-plasma, carbodiimide or glutaraldehyde treatments. Scanning electron micrographs have revealed the surface morphological changes after such modifications. The surface modified chitosan beads have exhibited high binding affinity for γ-globulin compared to bare beads. It is also observed that the amount of fibrinogen adsorption is reduced on modified substrate. A selective removal of IgG and IgM has also been observed with these modified matrix when tested with human plasma, using immuno diffusion methods.

The modified chitosan membranes have demonstrated a reduction in platelet attachment, showing that these substrates have become more blood compatible. Hence, it appears that modified chitosan surfaces may be an excellent sorbent system for haemoperfusion due to their high binding affinity for immunoproteins and blood compatibility. Further studies are needed to determine the behaviour under clinical conditions.
Facilitating Students' Integration of Textiles and Clothing Subject Matter Part One: Dimensions of a Model and a Taxonomy
Authors: Fiore Ann Marie , Ogle Jennifer Paff
Published: January 2008

Scholars have written literature elucidating the integration of textiles and clothing subject matter. However, this literature does not clearly explicate how students can integrate subject matter or how integration can serve professional development of students. The purpose of part one of a two part paper is to describe elements of two learning aids, a model and a taxonomy, that may be used to help students conceptually integrate textiles and clothing subject matter and assist their professional development. The model illustrates how the outcome ofprofessional decision-making regarding aspects of theproduct and/or productenvironment affects perceived aesthetic and instrumentalvalue that the targetedconsumer derives from the product and environment. The model also shows that socio-cultural and individual differences of the targeted consumer influence perceived or, desired value derived from the product and environment. Furthermore, theglobal context (e.g., technological, political, economic factors) affects every aspect of the model. Analyses of the product, product environment, consumer, perceived or desired value, and global context contribute to professional decision-making. A taxonomy of value presents 20 benefits that may be derived from products and environments. The 20 benefits are sensual pleasure, beauty, physical comfort, physical protection and safety, quality, efficiency, sexual attractiveness, aroused emotion, creative expression, elevated emotion, reflected emotion, spiritual ecstasy, identity, alternative existence, cognitive challenge, self-acceptance, status, social acceptance or affiliation, spiritual protection, and quest for knowledge.
Fashion Leaders' and Followers' Attitudes Toward Buying Domestic and Imported Apparel
Authors: Beaudoin Pierre , Moore Mary Ann , Goldsmith Ronald E.
Published: January 2008

Using the Fishbein Attitude Model as the conceptual framework, this study investigated whether female fashion leaders and fashion followers differed in the importance they gave to 12 selected clothing attributes and in their attitudes toward buying imported and domestic apparel. A random sample of 641 female consumers completed a mailed questionnaire. Results showed that fashion leaders accorded significantly more importance than fashion followers to six apparel attributes: color, attractiveness, fashionableness, brand name, appropriateness for occasion, and choice of styles. Both fashion leaders and followers accorded similar importance to six other apparel attributes: good fit, durability, ease of care, price, comfort, and quality. Also, fashion leaders as well as fashion followers had more positive attitudes toward domestic apparel than imported apparel. However, compared to followers, fashion leaders had more positive attitudes toward imported apparel.
Clothing and Identity Among Female In-line Skaters
Authors: Dickson Marsha A. , Pollack Ashley
Published: January 2008

Role and identity theories provided perspective for this exploratory study of the needs and preferences of consumer athletes who participate in an emerging sport, in-line skating. Female in-line skaters (N = 54) were surveyed in Ohio and Florida regarding their skating commitment, sport clothing interests and preferences, and skating behaviors. Greater interests in achieving a unique and feminine appearance for performance enhancement and greater desire for fashion rather than comfort significantly predicted female skaters' likelihood of buying clothing specifically for in-line skating. Additionally, age and commitment to skating predicted the likelihood of purchasing special skating clothing. Findings are compared and contrasted with previous studies of sports and clothing addressing how identity in a sport without a long history and traditions in dress is enhanced with clothing, and the salience of brand name logos to sport identity. Finally, implications to manufacturers and retailers of sport clothing are suggested.
Facilitating Students' Integration of Textiles and Clothing Subject Matter. Part Two: Substantiating the Applicability of Proposed Structures
Authors: Ogle Jennifer Paff , Fiore Ann Marie
Published: January 2008

In recent history the field of textiles and clothing has witnessed a shift from a home economics to a professional (industry) focus and an increased effort to integrate elements of varied textiles and clothing subject matter around a common perspective. Literature elucidating the importance of integration of textiles and clothing subject matter has been written for the scholar and does not clearly explicate integration of subject matter for the student or how integration can serve his/her purpose of professional development. In part one we described the dimensions and components of an overarching model and a taxonomy of value (i.e., benefits derived from textile products and related environments) for use in the classroom to help students conceptually integrate subject matter to assist their professional development. In part two we utilize the concept of schema to justify the use of structures in fostering cognitive integration of subject matter. We substantiate the applicability of these structures for integrating textiles and clothing core subject matter by referring to educational materials used at universities within the United States. We also offer suggestions for application of these structures within one's program. We propose these working structures as a beginning for all faculty in textiles and clothing programs to develop a balanced integrative structure representing all aspects of the program and the larger textiles and apparel industry.
Department Store Apparel Buyers: Relationships Among Environmental Characteristics, Environmental Uncertainty, Boundary Spanning Activities, Managerial Discretion and Power
Authors: Lazorchak Shirley A. , O'Neal Gwendolyn S.
Published: January 2008

The purpose of the study was to explore the relationships among environmental characteristics, uncertainty, boundary spanning activities, managerial discretion, and power of the department store apparel buyer who assumes combination or independent buyer responsibilities. Almubarek's Model of Organizational Boundary Spanning and Duncan's (1972) Model of Environmental Uncertainty were used as conceptual frameworks. A questionnaire was mailed to buyers who purchased merchandise in the moderate-to-better sportswear areas in the top 10 department store groups in the United States.

The results generated support for the nature of relationships found among the variables in Almubarek's Model: a complex, dynamic environment leads to environmental uncertainty and perceptions of uncertainty trigger the use of boundary spanning activities which enhances the power of the buyer. In addition, the placement of apparel retailers within Duncan's (1972) Model should be revised to reflect a highly uncertain environment.
Apparel Descriptions in Catalogs and Perceived Risk Associated with Catalog Purchases
Authors: Gaal Brigitte , Burns Leslie Davis
Published: January 2008

The present study had two overall objectives: (a) to identify and clarify important yet inadequate information in a catalog's apparel descriptions, and (b) to test if clarifications of the descriptions altered consumers' perceived ability to evaluate the garments and the degree of perceived risk associated with purchasing the garments. The two-phase study consisted of focus groups and an experiment. A total of seventeen female focus group participants evaluated information about the sizing/fit, color, fabric/fiber content, style/detail, and laundering instructions of garments within the catalog, as well as general information regarding the catalog and retailer. Per the suggestions of the focus group participants, the investigated garment descriptions were altered to include additional sizing/fit and fabric/fiber content information. An experiment was conducted to test whether the changes made to the descriptions influenced consumers' perceived ability to evaluate the garments, as well as consumers' perceived risk associated with purchasing the garments. Results indicated that changes made regarding the fabric/fiber content increased participants' perceived ability to evaluate the garments, whereas changes made regarding the sizing/fit did not. Furthermore, the results did not support the notion that either type of change would alter the degree of perceived risk associated with purchasing the garments.
Views on Mentoring by Clothing and Textiles Faculty
Authors: Johnson Kim K.P. , Yust Becky L. , Fritchie Louise Lystig
Published: January 2008

Mentoring is one strategy that might be key to facilitating faculty retention and promotion. The purpose of the present research was to investigate how prevalent mentoring is and whether it is perceived as aiding the development, success, and work satisfaction of clothing and textiles faculty in post-secondary education. A random sample of 33 ITAA members (N = 32 females, 1 male) completed an in-depth telephone interview. Most participants were involved either in mentoring their colleagues or in being mentored. Relationships reported involved senior faculty mentoring junior faculty rather than peer mentoring. Participants noted that a mentoring relationship was important to their career advancement as junior faculty and to work satisfaction as senior faculty. Participants also noted that administrative support in several forms was necessary for mentoring relationships to be successful. Implications are presented for faculty concerning their involvement in mentoring.
The Emergence of Modern Infantwear, 1896-1962: Traditional White Dresses Succumb to Fashion's Gender Obsession
Authors: Huun Kathleen , Kaiser Susan B.
Published: January 2008

The first half of the twentieth century witnessed a number of innovations and ambiguities in the clothing of young children. Dominant, popular period literature reveals mixed cultural sentiments regarding how children, and especially boys, should be dressed. Our analysis of this literature and of new clothing styles offered for the first five to six years of a child's life reveals that a larger re-visioning of gender and age boundaries was underway. Between 1896, the first year infantwear (the androgynous white dress) was offered in the Sears catalog in the United States, and 1962, the first year gender-specific wear for newborns appeared in the catalog, complex processes of visual negotiation and evolution occurred. "Revolutionary" changes in playwear and "interim" dressy garment innovations helped to bridge masculinity and femininity across the first years of life, hence easing the transition toward more modern, streamlined styles for boys, in particular. Integrating three fashion theories (Hollander's, McCracken's, and Kaiser, Nagasawa, and Hutton's), we interpret the changes in young children's clothing during this period as part of a complicated, evolutionary (male) "flight from femininity": one that required negotiating complex ambivalences and ambiguities in order to construct a binary system of modern, gendered infancy.
Body Image: Linking Aesthetics and Social Psychology of Appearance
Authors: Rudd Nancy A. , Lennon Sharron J.
Published: January 2008

Body image is the mental picture we have of our bodies, has both perceptual and affective components, affects how we interact with clothes, and affects how that clothed appearance is presented publicly. The purpose of this article is to theoretically justify the inclusion of body image in textiles and clothing subject matter in institutions of higher education. Although pioneering efforts have addressed the body from aesthetic and social psychological standpoints, no theoretical justification integrates both aesthetic theory and social psychological concepts as applied to body image. We present discussions of both aesthetic and social psychological theories and concepts related to body image, make suggestions for curricular strategies at both undergraduate and graduate levels, and provide links to various stakeholders. We argue that textiles and clothing educators have a significant role to play in research, education, and outreach efforts related to body image and appearance-related behaviors and can address important quality of life issues.
Disability and the Social Importance of Appearance
Authors: Lamb Jane M.
Published: January 2008

In this paper, I use a social view of disability developed by disability activist-scholars to encourage research in the textiles and clothing field. Early research on "clothing for people with special needs" occurred within a socio-political context dominated by a medicalized view of disability. A social view of disability is compatible with textiles and clothing scholarship on appearance and social realities. The paper includes suggestions for research directions that would benefit the disciplines of textiles and clothing and disability studies.
A Framework for Assessing Military Dress Authenticity in Civil War Reenacting
Authors: Strauss Mitchell D.
Published: January 2008

In the United States, hobby organizations participate in the public reenactment of historical events. The most popular is Civil War reenacting, which can be viewed as a manifestation of the unresolved nature of that war. Interpretation of reenacting has high potential for exploring American sensibilities. Among reenactors, the quest for historical authenticity is considered a core value. To that end, it was the intent of this research to develop a framework to assess the authenticity of reenactor's period military dress. Analysis of dress authenticity is a vehicle for understanding the underlying motivations of participants in the hobby. Demonstrated in the form of a conceptual model, authenticity can be viewed in terms of variables that either contribute to or detract from it. From construction of authenticity, cues can be discerned regarding individual responses to social and cultural conflict. Variation from the authentic can be indicative of the underlying implications of reenactor dress.
Changing Focus of Textiles and Clothing Within Home Economics: An Analysis of Two Professional Journals
Authors: Chowdhary Usha , Meacham Esther
Published: January 2008

The visibility of textiles and clothing within home economics was measured by the number of articles published in the Journal of Home Economics from 1911 through 1980 and the Home Economics Research Journal from its introduction in 1972 through 1980. The articles with textiles and clothing subject matter emphasis were quantified and categorized in five areas: clothing construction/design, consumerism, historical textiles and costumes, sociological and psychological aspects of clothing and textiles, and textiles. The data were condensed at 10-year intervals and percentages were calculated. Articles dealing with subject matter other than textiles and clothing were counted for the first and last decades to ascertain the relative position of the field within home economics. The findings revealed coexistence of two or more areas during each decade with a dominance of textiles throughout except for the 1961-70 interval. Changes in one area affected the relative importance of other areas. The percentage representation of textiles and clothing increased from 8.4 percent (1911-20) to 15.8 percent (1971-80). Pertinent questions were posed for consideration by professionals in the field to help improve the visibility of textiles and clothing within home economics.
A Demographic and Psychographic Assessment of a Specialty Store's Customers and Non-Customers
Authors: Thorpe Dayle Ingerick , Avery Carol E.
Published: January 2008

The purpose of the study was to identify demographic and psychographic profiles of customers and non-customers of a retail specialty store. Objectives were to determine (1) the characteristics of the customers and (2) the combination of characteristics that could be used to discriminate customers from non-customers. A revised version of an instrument prepared by Walter K. Levy Associates was employed. Questionnaires were mailed to a randomly selected sample of 600 customers and 600 non-customers. Of the 760 questionnaires returned, 459 were usable—273 from customers and 186 from non-customers. Stepwise discriminant analysis was used to analyze the data. A set of 24 variables described the characteristics of the customers and non-customers. One variable was concerned with shopper viewpoint, 13 with store image, 6 with shopper behavior, 1 with media preference and usage, and 3 with demographic characteristics. The discriminant function was highly accurate in predicting which respondents were customers and which were non-customers. In the pseudo-jackknifed classification procedure, the 24 variables successfully classified 85 percent of the 459 respondents.
Correspondent Inference: Theoretical Framework for Viewing Clothed Appearances
Authors: Kelley Eleanor , Sweat Sarah
Published: January 2008

Clothing and textiles researchers recognize the need for theory building, including borrowing ideas from root disciplines. Appearance has been treated as dressing for either a single role or a single situation. Yet single situation preparation is often unlikely in urban life. Sociologists recognize that role strain, created by demands of multiple-roles, is normal and actors find ways to minimize it. Appearance may either magnify or minimize role strain in multiple-role situations. Ideas from correspondent inference, an aspect of attribution theory, are presented as a basis for exploring multiple-role dressing, and they are illustrated with comments added by respondents in several studies in which the instruments focused on single situations. Potential research approaches, researchable questions from the points of view of actors and perceivers, and resources whose ideas seem appropriate to refocus on multiple-role dressing also are suggested. Potential explorations of multiple-role dressing seem as limitless as actors, perceivers, and situations.
The Effectiveness of Specimen Tactile Evaluation As a Predictor of Garment Tactile Acceptability for Garments As a Whole and on a Regional Basis
Authors: Laing Raechel M. , Ingham P.E.
Published: January 2008

Tactile perceptions of five fabrics commonly used for protective clothing were made by four subjects from specimens using the hand and from garments using selected body sites. Results indicated there was considerable agreement among subjects on ratings of prickly-smooth, stiff-limp, cool-warm, thick-thin, and the five fabrics being assessed did not differ significantly. Regional variations in perception were not demonstrated.
Perceptions of Functional Clothing By Persons with Physical Disabilities: A Social-Cognitive Framework
Authors: Freeman Carla M. , Kaiser Susan B. , Wingate Stacy B.
Published: January 2008

A social-cognitive framework for the study of special clothing features is presented in this paper, along with supporting data derived from a series of focused group interviews with 36 physically disabled students. The context of clothing styles was explored in terms of the consequences of potential stigmatization as compared to personal evaluations of the styles per se, without accompanying social cues. The students tended to express ambivalence about specific clothing styles and about the general concept of functional clothing, particularly in relation to functionality versus perceived image and stigmatization. Suggestions to ameliorate the negative social consequences of functional apparel included: (a) personal adaptations to normative attire, (b) networking to facilitate dissemination of the ingenious strategies developed by disabled persons themselves, and (c) increased attention to the incorporation of functional features into all clothing.
Hypothermia, Use of Textile Items, and the Elderly
Authors: Avery Carol E. , Pestle Ruth E. , Radcliffe Pamela M.
Published: January 2008

Hypothermia can be a serious threat to the elderly, even in the relatively warm climates found in the southeastern part of the United States. The objectives of this paper were to report initial efforts to examine the use of clothing and bedding items by the elderly, to relate usage to selected demographic variables, and to provide a baseline for future research. Data were collected by interviewing 381 subjects, sixty-five years of age and older, who were participants in home-delivered and congregate meal site programs across north Florida. Data were analyzed by means of descriptive statistics and by chi square and cluster analyses. Respondents reported using a wide variety of textile items to keep warm inside their homes in the winter. Six variables (sex, race, education, income, age, and type of meal program) were significantly related to selected patterns of textile use; all but education were related to the perceived textile needs of the respondents. Even though few subjects understood the dangers of hypothermia, those at the lowest income and educational levels appeared to have more characteristics that might make them susceptible to hypothermia than other groups. Additional research, improved educational programs, increased clothing use, and continuation of public service programs could help prevent the occurrence of accidental hypothermia among the elderly.
Methyl Parathion Residue in Cotton and Polyester Functionally Finished Fabrics After Laundering and Abrasion
Authors: Laughlin Joan , Gold Roger E.
Published: January 2008

A number of researchers have reported the contribution of laundering factors including temperature, detergents, laundry aids, and drying conditions on residue of pesticides in protective apparel fabrics after laundering; however, all laundering research to date has been conducted with unused fabrics. Soiling is enhanced by maximum surface area per volume; that is, the more crevices and fiber disruptions, the greater the potential for penetration and entrapment of soil. Abrasion, a usual part of wear oftextiles, can increase fiber disruptions. This study was undertaken to assess the predisposition of functionally finished cotton and polyester specimens to pesticide soil because of the physical and chemical changes that occur during wear and to assess the effectiveness of soil removal. Specimens were altered by laundering and abrasion and differed in methyl parathion soil absorption and completeness of residue removal in laundering, theorized to be due to changes caused by laundering rather than abrasion damage. Durable press cotton was particularly susceptible to abrasion and pesticide residue retention and thus should not be selected for protective apparel. Acrylic acid soil release finish did not contribute to soil removal but did enhance soiling and inhibit soil removal.
Documentation and Analysis of Dated Victorian Crazy Quilts
Authors: Jung Kathy M. , Paoletti Jo B.
Published: January 2008

It has been suggested that as the popularity of crazy patchwork quilts waned at the end of the nineteenth century, the decorative features which characterized them also declined in quantity and quality. The purpose of this study was to test this hypothesis as means of understanding how needlework styles may change throughout the duration of their popularity. In order to determine the characteristics of the crazy quiltfad, a sample of 37 dated Victorian crazy quilts was examined. A method was developed to quantify the features found on the sample quilts, such as average number ofpatches and different embroidery stitches for a given area on the quilt. The distribution of the number of quilts by year of origin supported documentary evidence of the fad's appearance, duration and decline. Deviations from the popular form of the crazy quilt did not occur until after the fad had lost its mass appeal.
Fashionable Versus Out-of-Date Clothing and Interpersonal Distance
Authors: Workman Jane E.
Published: January 2008

Affiliative conflict theory states that interpersonal situations involve avoidance tendencies which are induced by the presence and characteristics of others. The purpose of this study was to show that clothing is a variable which affects interpersonal distance in social interaction. Wearing out-of-date clothing is highly visible and may be a negatively valued characteristic which may induce spatial avoidance reactions. Wearing clothing currently in fashion may give an impression ofgreater sociability and lead to closer interpersonal distances. To test these hypotheses, a repeated measures design utilized five figure drawings which varied only in style of jeans drawn on the figure. Subjects were asked to draw a stickfigure, representing themselves, at a distancefrom the other person at which they would feel most comfortable. Distance between each experimental figure and subject's corresponding figure drawing was analyzed for relationships between distance and clothing fashionability. Multivariate analysis indicatedfashionability was a factor in distance. Further analysis revealed distance from most fashionable figures was significantly less than distance from leastfashionable,figures. Results of this study imply that interpersonal distance in social interaction is modifiable through clothing manipulation.
Fashion Involvement: An Instrument Validation Procedure
Authors: Fairhurst Ann E. , Good Linda K. , Gentry James W.
Published: January 2008

The purchase of apparel items is classified as a high involvement activity. A majority of the involvement research deals with product-specific measures of involvement. Recently, a general measure of involvement, the Personal Involvement Inventory (PII), was developed to be used across a wide variety of product categories (Zaichkowsky, 1985). One objective of this study was to use the PII to determine women's fashion apparel involvement across two fashion-oriented groups. In addition, the measure's convergent validity was investigated by comparing its performance with two product-specific involvement measures. The sample consisted of two groups, women's specialty store customers (n=220), aged 30-50, and female home economics students (n=103), aged 18-20. Data were collected through a questionnaire distributed to both groups. Both groups were more highly involved with apparel than the Zaichkowsky groups were with most other products, cars being the lone exception. Despite its more general form, the PII demonstrated convergent validity in that the intercorrelations between the three involvement measures were signiricant (p < .01). Results indicated that the PII is both a reliable and valid measure of the involvement construct.
The Effect of Store Image on Consumers' Perceptions of Designer and Private Label Clothing
Authors: Baugh Dawna F. , Davis Leslie L.
Published: January 2008

The effects of brand labeling and store image on perceptions of clothing characteristics were investigated using a 3X3 completefactorial between-subjects experimental design. Ninety women individually examined and rated a knit shirt on status, utility, styling, and purchase evaluation characteristics. The shirt had either a designer, private, or no label attached to it and was associated with either a high image store, a low image store, or no store. Both brand label and store image affected ratings of status characteristics of the shirt. Store image affected the ratings of styling characteristics of the private label shirts but not of the designer label shirts. The results are discussed in terms of Congruity Theory.
Profiling the Career Development of Women Fashion Merchandising Graduates: A Beginning
Authors: Avery Carol E.
Published: January 2008

This discussion paper summarizes recent literature and concepts concerning the career development of women, relates this material to careers in merchandising, examines somepreliminary data provided by 115 graduates of a four-year baccalaureate program in fashion merchandising, and raises some issues that require further investigation by educators and researchers in the discipline. The author concludes that fashion merchandising appears to provide a viable basis for a career in retailing but emphasized the need for comparative and longitudinal research designs to track the career development of women in this field. Educators are encouraged to emphasize the increasing need for career preparation for women, to teach transferable skills, to investigate the role of continuing study in meeting the labor market needs of retailers, and to prepare women to compete for upper and middle management positions in retailing.
Buying For the Small Apparel Retail Store: Job Content Across Four Merchandise Categories
Authors: Fiorito Susan S. , Fairhurst Ann E.
Published: January 2008

The success of a retail store is dependent upon the skills and knowledge of the buyer. The purposes of this study were to investigate the job content of buyers in small apparel stores and to compare specific job elements across four merchandise categories: a) men's apparel, b) women's apparel, c) children's apparel, and d) accessory and other apparel. MANOVA was used to compare six divisions of worker-oriented job elements across the four merchandise categories and to test for differences between the variables which would indicate the most and least important/frequently usedjob components. There were 153 buyers who completed and returned surveys adapted from the Position Analysis Questionnaire (PAQ). The results indicated that some of the aspects deemed most important/frequently used by the buyers were judging quality, decision-making, consumer behavior, and attention to detail. Some of the least important/frequently used job aspects were estimating time, keyboard devices, buying offices, public speaking, and supervisors. Eight significant differences were found among the buyers of the four merchandise categories at the 05 alpha level in relationship to color perception, estimation of size, amount of physical exertion, persuasion, semi-professional personnel, civic obligations, travel, and responsibility for waste.
Retail Buyers' Saleability Judgments: A Comparison of Merchandise Categories
Authors: Stone Linda C. , Cassill Nancy L.
Published: January 2008

The purpose of this study was to compare the product, vendor, and information source saleability judgments of retail store buyers. The sample chosen for the study was retail buyers of women's wear and men's wear from three retailers in the southwestern United States. A mailed questionnaire consisting of saleability judgments was sent to 81 retail buyers resulting in a 77% (n = 63) return rate. Three Principal Component Factor Analyses with Varimax Rotation were used to reduce the number of product, vendor, and information source items to eight factors. Analysis of Variance was used to determine if women's wear buyers and men's wear buyers differed significantly on the eight product, vendor, and information source factors. Women's wear buyers rated reputation, price/promotion, and competition significantly higher than did men's wear buyers, indicating that women's wear and men's wear buyers emphasize different saleability judgments in making purchase decisions. Results will benefit retail management in developing buyer training programs, apparel manufacturers in designing and promoting apparel lines, and educators in designing retail curricula.
In Search of a Common Thread: Classification of Information Communicated Through Dress
Authors: Damhorst Mary Lynn
Published: January 2008

In previous research of person perception and dress a wide array of measurement items often have been incorporated with little consideration of relationships among findings. The objective of the present qualitative meta-analysis was to find consistent themes among findings ofprevious research. The sources of data were 109 impression formation studies reported between 1943 and 1986; 869 significant findings in the studies related to dress and comprised the data. Four superordinate categories—Evaluation, Potency, Dynamism, and Quality of Thought-were tailor made to fit recurrent themes in the data and incorporated 93% of the previous findings. The parsimonious dimensions emerging from the content analysis could facilitate development of future research instruments and serve as a framework for interpretation offindings. In addition, research designs were examined for trends in inclusion of perceiver variables, context of stimulus persons, measurement approaches, and efforts at programmatic inquiry.