bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
The early days of French sociology of religion
Authors: Isambert F.A.
Published: March 2007

Ecartant l'idée selon laquelle la sociologie religieuse ne commence en France qu'avec les enquêtes de pratique religieuse dans les années trente, l'auteur entreprend d'illustrer la filiation des courants actuels de recherche explorés par les sociologues français.

Pour qu'une sociologie religieuse fût possible, il a fallu que les sciences humaines se voient reconnues, que la sociologie se pose comme science et qu'on admette de voir la religion examinée par une science profane. L'auteur montre ce que ces acquisitions doivent au 'siècle des Lumières' avec Montesquieu, Rousseau et les Encyclopédistes et en particulier avec des hommes comme le Président des Brosses ou B. Constant. L'apport du 19eme siècle aussi est fondamental dans la constitution d'une science des sociétés. Saint Simon, avec le Nouveau Christianisme, ouvre la voie à Buchez et surtout Auguste Comte.

Parallèlement, avec des chercheurs comme Le Play s'ouvre la voie des monographies de familles ou de villages, pour l'étude du facteur reli gieux. Avec Malte-Brun, Fournier de Flaix, le Comte d'Angeville la recherche s'oriente vers la statistique de l'appartenance religieuse et des cultes.

Mais la sociologie 'classique' trouve sa référence principale en France dans les oeuvres de Durkheim et son école ainsi que dans les recherches de Lévy-Bruhl. Les travaux de Durkheim comme Les formes élémentaires de la vie religieuse ou Le suicide fournissent un apport capital à l'étude des contenus religieux et marquent profondément l'école française de sociologie religieuse dans son goût pour la positivité, l'objectivité et la méthode qualitative. Les pistes ouvertes par Lévy-Bruhl et après lui par R. Hubert et M. Mauss en ethnologie continuent d'être explorées dans l'étude de la religion vécue.
L'innovation religieuse (*)
Authors: Estruch Juan
Published: March 2007

Taking into account the fact that all points of view, in~ cluding the sociological, are inevitably partial, a sociology of religious phenomena may be said to be capable only of studying that which corresponds to a social, « reality ». The proliferation of sociographic studies on the relationship between religion and society has its roots in a form of sociological theory of religion so impoverished as to place it on the margins of the discipline in relationship to sociological theory in general. This means that it is now necessary to start to re~develop theory relating to the sociology of religion.

This article is an attempt to do this in relation to the analysis of the phenomena of religious innovation. As a result, the article moves in three successive stages from sociological theory to the sociology of religion and from there to the application of a theoretical model to certain aspects of the Church as an institution. It appears that the religious institu~ tion legitimates some values but has been deprived in con~ temporary western society of its previous monopoly of the definition of what is legitimate. This is the reason why, after an analysis. of the sociological literature, the process of « secularization » and « pluralism » appear as the factors which are defining the actual situation and are chosen as key variables in determining the extent to which one, could today regard religious innovation as creative or merely adaptive.

The evidence of this attempt to analyse the situation of religious institutions starting from their situation in society and following a particular theoretical approach, indicates that religious innovation is clearly adaptive in nature.
Family, Ritual and Secularization
Authors: Lüschen Günther , Staikof Zaharj , Stolte Heiskanen Veronica , Ward Conor
Published: March 2007

A partir des résultats d'une étude dans plusieurs pays aux degrés divers de modernisation, la fonction du rituel familial se dégage dans le sens d'une actualisation des liens familiaux et d'un renforcement de la famille nucléaire. Le rituel spéci fique de la Noël devient plus orienté vers la famille qu'orienté vers l'Eglise, tandis que soumis à un changement révolution naire, il perd la plus grande partie de son sens et de sa fonc tion.

Malgré les changements, uh intérêt fondamental pour le sacré l'emporte sur la modernisation. Là sécularisàtion appa raît alors comme un processus de re-locatisation et de privati sation du sacré, entre autre et surtout dans la famille; plutôt que comme un mouvement de désacralisation des sociétés «plus traditionnelles » vers des sociétés « plus modernes >.
Les Eglises européennes et la Paix Réflexions sociologiques sur leur engagement et leur pensée
Authors: Houtart François
Published: March 2007

In 1972, the European Conference of Churches decided to launch a survey on their action in favor of peace. François Houtart's article consists of a sociological reflection on the documents published by these churches (protestant, orthodox, anglican). The first part treats the relationships between the Churches and their respective societies and it establishes a typology: established churches, churches of the liberal capitalist regimes and churches of the socialist regimes. In the first two connections existing between the social, economic and political systems and the churches considerably reduce their autonomy. In the socialist countries, the churches can only have a role of administration of private religion, ex pressing themselves within the limits determined by the ideo logy of the State. Their historical operation in feudal and capitalist societies makes an active role difficult in an egali tarian society.

The polarization within the Churches, provoked by the stands taken in areas concerning peace, brings to light the fact that they are affected by the social appurtenances of their members. This generally remains hidden when only the so-called purely religious questions are approached. Thus the difficulty arises of accepting prophetic minorities within them as well as of administrating conflicts linked with ideological options, options which are themselves fruits of social ap purtenances. In capitalist societies the dominating classes generally have a preponderant voice within ecclesiastical organizations.

One can notice a lack of socio-political analyses in the churches. This permits the author to study the notions of macro and micro-dimension in depth. The latter, which is that of the immediately perceptible, forms the general level of the apprehension of religious agents who have difficulty in placing themselves at a more global and structural level. The theological reflection concerning these areas often seems rather contradictory as it passes from a more or less explicit socio-political analysis to an ignorant production of its own social and ideological consequences. In any case, what is new is the development, at the heart of the churches, of an awareness that theological thought is ideologically situated and that their action is socially conditionned.
Occupational Versus Organizational Influences on Reference Group Identification
Authors: Kronus Carol L.
Published: March 2007

Two models of influence on reference-group identification were tested; the professional model that posits that occupational members retain an enduring stable identity established via their socialization experience was compared to the situational model, which emphasizes the resocializing pressures of the work situation. The pharmacy occupation provides a chance to compare occupational versus organizational effects on reference group identity because of the diversity in role orientations (business and professional) and work settings. Data from a population of pharmacists in a middle sized urban area strongly support the situational model. Reference group identity follows the power structure of the work setting as hospital pharmacists identified with physicians, while neighborhood pharmacists displayed a colleague-identity and chain store pharmacists rejected both occupational groups to identify with clients. Focusing on the power hierarchy of the work setting accounts for the diverse findings of both professional and situational models. Only in settings where the occupation dominates is identity colleague-based. Suggestions for revamping the outdated professional model to take into consideration the changed employment settings are offered.
Effects of Air and Yarn Characteristics in Air-Jet Filling Insertion
Authors: Turel Tacibaht , Bakhtiyarov Sayavur , Adanur Sabit
Published: March 2007

The main objective of this study is to investigate the air flow and effect of several parameters on weft insertion, and thus to provide a valuable guide for both air-jet weavers and researchers by establishing a better understanding of air-yam interactions in air-jet weaving machines. Air pressure and velocity are measured on the air-jet weaving machine simulator, along with the effects of running conditions on air velocity and air pressure. The influences of running speed, supply pressure, and distance on the insertion channel are analyzed. The significance of these system parameters on air flow characteristics during insertion is investigated.
Analysis of Tear Strength
Authors: Hager O.B. , Gagliardi D.D. , Walker H.B.
Published: March 2007

An analysis has been made of the factors involved in the A.S.T.M. Trapezoid Tear-Strength Test. The tear strength of a fabric measured by this test is dependent mainly on the extensibility of the threads, the breaking strength of the threads, the effective specimen length, and the number of threads per inch of fabric. An analytical interpretation of the part played by each of these factors resulted in a general equation relating tear strength to the breaking strength and extensi bility of a given fabric. The evaluation of the derived equation gave a good correlation between the calculated and measured tear-strength values of the fabrics investigated.
Acetylation of Zein Fibers
Authors: Evans Cyril D. , Bradford Croston C. , Van Etten Cecil
Published: March 2007

The acetylation of zein fibers increased the water-resistance, improved the softness of the fiber by moderation of the severe formaldehyde post-cure, improved the boil-resistance, whitened the fiber by removal of pigments, and decreased the dye uptake. Acetylation was accomplished with acetic anhydride, with sodium acetate or sulfuric acid as catalyst. Acetyl contents of more than 5 percent were quickly obtained in continuous-processing equipment. The amount of acetyl groups introduced can be regulated by changing the composition, time of reaction, or the temperature of the acetylating mixture.
Quantitative Evaluation of the X-Ray Diffraction of Ramie Fiber
Authors: Hermans P.H. , Weidinger A.
Published: March 2007

A quantitative evaluation of the principal paratropic and diatropic interferences of ramie fiber is undertaken using a diffractometer technique with Geiger counter detection and strictly monochrotnatized radiation. The relative intensities of the main crystalline interferences have been measured and found to be in reasonable agreement with those calculated for the Andress lattice structure. Absolute values of the crystalline fraction however could not be derived from the present results.
Improvement of Rayon by Continuous High-Temperature Steaming
Authors: Okajima Saburo , Inoue Kimio , Yazawa Masahide , Kuwazuka Yasuhiko
Published: March 2007

An apparatus was constructed, and heat treatment of rayon tow or sliver was carried out continuously using steam or water of 120° to 190° C for 15 to 80 sec Flash heating with saturated Steam of 7 to 14 kg/cm2 for 15 sec is sufficient to reduce the degree of swelling of rayon to the order of that of cotton. with negligible depolymerization Fine structure of the fully treated rayon is stable, and the reduced swelling and the mechanical properties do not change when the rayon comes into contact with water of 100° to 180° C Upon being immersed in caustic alkaline solutions, the treated rayon always has lower swelling compared to the untreated, and part of the net structure formed by the treatment remains undestroyed.

In some cases increase in elongation and decrease in Young's modulus are brought about by an annealing effect at a sufficiently high temperature
Dyeing of Polyacrylonitrile Fibers
Authors: Rosenbaum S.
Published: March 2007

A new method for the study of dyeing rates and equilibria combines the accuracy and ease of various other methods used previously. The dyehaths are closed systems in Erlenmeyer flasks modified to provide very efficient agitation during horizontal motion of a holding tray in a shaking bath of good temperature constancy. When a stopcock is opened, pressure inside the flasks pumps the solution directly into modified spectro photometer cells. Dilution is avoided by the use of spacers and various parts of the dye spectrum, so that the measured solution can be returned to the system. Illustrative ex amples include the effect of steam annealing temperature, orienting stretch sequence, and shaking speed on the dyeing rate of polyacrylonitrile fibers with Malachite Green, dyeing rate with Orange II on various fibers, its concentration dependence on poly acrylonitrile fibers and desorption with temperature increase. Many of the methods can be used for other than dyeing studies.
Durably Creased Wash-Wear Cottons
Authors: Goldstein Herman B. , May J. Michael
Published: March 2007

The deferred curing characteristies of several commercially available reactants have been studied and compared. Data based on laboratory as well as plant scale applications are presented to show the practical feasibility of deferred curing to produce durable creases and pleats in 100% cotton wash-wear garments.
A Study on Liquid Extraction from C otton Fabrics in a Centrifugal Field
Authors: Short Brant A. , Gertz William J.
Published: March 2007

A study on the extraction of liquid from a cotton fabric is presented. As in the recently published study by Loeb, the extraction is accomplished through the use of a laboratory centrifuge System. The effects of centrifugal field strength, initial liquid content of the fabric load, thickness of the fabric load, the temperature of the extracted liquid, the sur face tension of the extracted liquid, and the extraction time are illustrated by experi mental data. A comparison is made wherever possible with the experimental data of Loeb, and the results of these comparisons are discussed.
Relationship of Polypropylene Fiber Orientation as Determined by Optical Birefringence and Sonic Velocity Measurements
Authors: Ross Stanley E.
Published: March 2007

Sonic velocity and optical birefringence measurements were made on yarns prepared from various polypropylene polymers that were extruded and cooled under conditions leading to the formation of yarns possessing different crystalline structures. Yarns produced from relatively-low-temperature melts were of the predominantly monoclinic crystalline structure in contrast to the paracrystalline structure of yarns produced from high-temperature melts. The basic relationships of melt temperature, molecular weight degradation, and development of spuming orientation are briefly discussed. A correla tion of sonic modulus with birefringence for undrawn yarns was found for yarns with a given molecular weight and crystalline structure. Orientation of the varns by stretch ing brought about the simultaneous increase of both the sonic modulus and the bire fringence for those yarns possessing the paracrystalline structure. Yarns of the mono clinic crystallme structure were observed to exhibit a temporary decrease in sonic modulus, although birefringence continued to increase. The minimum in the sonic modulus curve is presumed to be a result of reduction of crystallinity due to cleavage of crystalline zones resulting from stretching or of the conversion of the crystal form to the paracrystalline form.
Determination of the Refractive Indices, Birefringence, and Tensile Properties of Normal Viscose Rayon Fibers
Authors: Barakat N. , Hindeleh A.M.
Published: March 2007

The refractive indices, birefringence, percentage skin, and the teilsile properties of normal viscose rayon fibers spun under different conditions are measured. The experi mental technique is described, and the results are correlated.
The Spreading and Adhesion of Polymers on Wool
Authors: Feldtman H.D. , McPhee J.R.
Published: March 2007

The application of polymers to wool is considered from the point of view of the surface free energies of wool and the polymers. A theory is developed explaining the effectiveness of different polymers in reducing felting shrinkage as heing due to the ease with which spreading can occur over the surface of the wool fibers. It is shown that a useful criterion for spreading is that γ, (the critical surface tension) of wool must be greater than γe of the applied polymer.

Spreading coefficients are calculated for various polymers on normal wool and on wool pretreated with chemical reagents. The spreading coefficients agree with the relatiye effects of chemical pretreatments, which can improve the efficiency of polymer treatments. The best pretreatments are those which increase the critical surface tension of wool from 45 dyne cm (normal wool) to 65-70 dyne cm.
Temperature Changes in Sorption Systems Due to Heat of Sorption
Authors: McMahon G.B. , Watt I.C.
Published: March 2007

The ability of a surbing sample to transfer heat of sorption has been calculated for vapor-phase sorption. In the presence of vapor at pressures > 1 mm Hg. conduction is the major mode of heat transfer for a sample consisting of a single piece of sorbent. For fibrous samples, the effective surface for heat transfer is less than the sorbing surface, and radiation may become comparable with conduction as a means of heat transfer, while heat transfer by natural convection is negligible. At zero vapor pressure radiative heat transfer is the most important. Factors affecting the rate of heat transfer are the size of the sorption vessel, the mass and the shape of the sorbing sample, the distribution of serbing surface, and the packing density. The calculations have been applied to the keratm-water system, and the efficiency of heat transfer for differing fiber assemblies has been expressed as the permissible rate of water sorption that will allow temperature variations to be kept within 1°C.
The Effect of Detergents on the Felting of Wool
Authors: Feldtman H.D. , McPhee J.R.
Published: March 2007

. Synthetic anionic and nononic detergents can produce higher felting rates than soap and the concentrations of detergents giving maximum felting rates can vary, with the type of machine used. In rotating-drum machines, maximum felting with synthetic detergents is found at about 0.01% concentration or less, compared with 0.05% in ma chines in which the wool is completely immersed for the duration of the test. With soap, maximum felting occurs at 0.05% in both types of machines.

The felting rates with commercial detergent formulations depend mostly on the con centration of active ingredient, although the relatively high pH (>10.0) of some "heavy-duty" detergent solutions may give lower felting rates than those with solutions of pH 6.8-9.6.

Tests for felting shrinkage carried out in the absence of detergents do not necessarily give a true indication of the degree of felting which is possible in machine washing, and standard tests may need to be related to the maximum, felting rates which could be encountered in practice.

The relative effects of different detergents are more marked with shrink-resistant than untreated wool and wool treated with some processes is more sensitive to the lubricating effect of detergents than that treated with other processes.
Wash and Wear Finishing of Cotton Fabric with N,N'-Dimethylol-Itaconamide (DIMIA)
Authors: Narita Shoji , Date Masakazu , Ishii Kiyoshi
Published: March 2007

A tri-functional monomer, N,N'-dimethylol-itaconamide (DIMIA) gave excellent wash-wear properties to cotton fabric. The cross-linking and polymerization mechanisms were investigated. The acid catalysts, MgCl2 and Zn(BF4)2, have been used to react the methylol groups of the reagent with cellulose hydroxyls while peroxide catalysts (free radical initiators) such as ammonium or potassium persulfates and H2O2 were examined for double bond polymerization. Mixtures of the two types of catalysts were also tested. The persulfates apparently are able to cause both etherification and polymerization. though they are surpassed by Zn(BF4)2. It is suggested that such a mixed catalyst system could be used in delayed cure wash-wear processes. The methylol groups of DIMIA reacted with the hydroxyl groups of cellulose in presence of acidic catalysts MgCl2 or Zn(BF 4)2. The double bonds of DIMIA polymerized in cellulose in presence of peroxide catalysts APS, KPS, or H2O2.

Only etherifications of dimethylol groups of DIMIA and cellulose hydroxyls can cross-link the cellulose, but the combination of the etherification and the polymerization is particularly effective for improving the crease recovery and wash-wear properties of cotton fabric.
Influence of the Specific Surface of Polyester Fiber on the Kinetics of Dyeing with Disperse Dyes
Authors: Cegarra José , Puente Publio
Published: March 2007

The influence that the diameter of selected polyester filaments has on the rate of dyeing of these fibers with the purified disperse dyes is studied in this work. It is shown how the dyeing rate increases with the specific surface and the relation between the dyeing rate and the diffusion coefficient is seen. A mathematical relation between the time of half dyeing and the specific surface of the fiber is determined, which allows to obtain the value of the diffusion coefficient of the dye.
Microscopical Comparisons of Some Reactions of Cotton Cellulose with Ethyleneurea Derivatives
Authors: Rollins Mary L. , Carra Jarrell H. , Gonzales Elwood J. , Berni Ralph J.
Published: March 2007

Reactions of cotton cellulose with dihydroxyethyleneurea (DHEU) and with dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) in the presence of Zn(NO3)2, ZnCl2, Mg(NO3)2, and MgCl2 as catalysts have been compared at various temperatures and times. Temperatures and times selected covered the range of conditions pertinent to the "delayed cure" process for making permanently pressed garments and, therefore, included slow rates of reaction from room temperature up to 65° C followed by high temperature cures at 160° and 180°C. Changes in fiber morphology which accompany changes in physical properties have been illustrated with electron micrographs of fiber sections. Correlations of these microscopical observations with those previously made on reactions between cellulose and dimethylolethyleneurea (DMEU), and with reaction rates and changes in physical properties are made. At no temperature of curing and with none of the catalysts used were reaction products of DHEU resistant in ultrathin section to solution in cuene; DMDHEU reaction products when catalyzed with zinc nitrate were resistant when reacted at temperatures as low as 65° for prolonged curing times.
Nonlinear Deflection Analysis of Fibers Using Displacements
Authors: Whitney James M. , Leissa A.W.
Published: March 2007

A general theory is presented for finding the deflected mode shape of a statically loaded coplanar filament as a function of the undeflected shape and the imposed loads. The solution is in terms of normal and tangential displacements from points on the original undeflected curve. The analysis results in five nonlinear differential equations. Three are equilibrium equations and two relate displacements to axial strain and to change in curvature. Analog computer solutions are presented for horizontal and circular cantilever fibers subjected to several different loadings. For a linear deflection analysis, the equations will reduce to those associated with the elastic stability of thin bars.
Observations on the Effect of Slow Speeds, and Electrostatic, Aerodynamic, and Mechanical Forces on Carding Cotton
Authors: Miller August L. , Brown Roger S. , Shepard Charles L. , Weller Heber W.
Published: March 2007

Some observations were made of a card during developmental research. A reduction in air pressure above the lap feed to below zero, by means of an outside suction, affects detrimentally lickerin performance. Fiber separation in the card feed system is poorly accomplished and improvements will probably require a departure from the conventional design. A 3.6-in-diameter lickerin his about the same cleaning performance as a standard 9-in. lickerin. A 9-in.-diameter doffer cylinder with metallic closing per forms equally as well as a standard doffer, but the setting is more critical. An electro static force improves the alignment of unrestrained fibers, but practical application is difficult. Operation of a card at reduced speed shows normal performance and permits observation of the loading of the main cylinder.
Cellulosic Flame Retardants Prepared Directly from Elemental Phosphorus
Authors: Arney W.C. , Kuryla W.C.
Published: March 2007

A new class of phosphorus-containing polyols that are prepared as residue products directly from elemental phosphorus can be effectively used as cellulosic flame retardants. Long-term laundry durability has been observed through the use of appropriate binder systems and typical textile finishing techniques, even in the case of low-level polyester-cotton blends. The high phosphorus content and ease of synthesis of the phosphorus polyols offer the possibility of a novel approach to developing low-cost textile flame retardants.
Moderated Mineral Acid Catalysis for Durable-Press Finishing Under Mild-Curing Conditions 1
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Kullman Russell M.H.
Published: March 2007

Mineral acids are effective catalysts in mild-cure finishing treatments for producing wrinkle resistance in cotton fabrics. In these treatments fabrics are impregnated with a solution containing an N-methylolated amide crosslinking agent and the catalyst, and heated without predrying, at 60-100°C for a short time. The heating is regulated so that the moisture content of the fibers at the end of the crosslinking treatment is about 3-5%. However, because of the potentially corro sive effect on equipment and the precise control necessary during treatments that utilize mineral acid catalysts, other catalyst systems have been sought. The present approach has been to modify the activity of the mineral acid by in cluding a moderating salt in the catalyst system. Certain acid/salt combinations that provide sufficient catalytic activity for mild-cure finishing were developed. The catalyst systems used were HCl/NH4H2PO 4, HCl/NH4C2H3O2, and HNO 3/ NH4H2PO4. Treatments utilizing these catalysts gave fabrics with greater strength but lower wrinkle- and chlorine- resistance than those receiving treatments catalyzed by mineral acid alone. Magnitude of the changes varied with concentrations and relative amounts of acid and salt in the catalyst system; quantities for optimum relationships were established.
A Computerized Data-Handling System for the Children's Sleepwear Standard DOC FF 3-71
Authors: Jakes K.A. , Smith B.F. , Spivak S.M.
Published: March 2007

A computer program was written in Fortran IV which organizes all information generated by garment prototype testing in DOC FF 3-71, the flammability standard for children's sleepwear. The raw data is plotted in a frequency distribution and also listed. The required calculations are performed, the averages recorded, and test results compared against specific criteria in the standard. A Pass, Fail, or Retest decision is indicated.
The Effect of Low Doses of Co60 Gamma Radiation on Some Physical Properties and the Structure of Wool Fibers
Authors: Beevers R.B. , McLaren K.G.
Published: March 2007

It has been found that small doses of gamma radiation (0.5-10 Mrad) produce marked effects on some physical prop erties of wool. These effects are not readily detected by mechanical strength measurements on fibers, but are revealed by changes in the behavior of the wool when it is converted to the supercontracted quasi-rubbery state by treatment with LiBr solution. Kinetic studies of the initial supercontraction reaction indicate that irradiation produces a marked reduction in the activation, energy and increases the rate of the reaction. There is also a trend for the initial contractile force to increase and for the equilibrium length contraction to decrease at the higher radiation dose levels. Stress-strain measurements on supercontracted wool show that doses as low as 0.5 Mrad greatly reduce the number of effective cross links in the rubbery network, the effect being similar to that produced by complete removal of the normal disulfide cross links in wool by chemical treatments. There is also evidence of the rebuilding of stable linkages as the radiation dose is increased over a limited range, before bond breakage predominates at the higher dose levels where changes in mechanical strength properties begin to become noticeable. Measurements of the swelling of wool in formic acid give similar evidence of bond breakage and rebuilding processes in wool as it is irradiated.

The results indicate that even small doses of gamma radiation break sufficient covalent bonds to make the crosslinked heptide chain structure more susceptible to the action of swelling and disordering agents. These small radiation-induced changes can be expected to affect properties of wool significant in absorption and penetration processes, such as those involved in dyeing, chemical modification, and grafting treatments of wool.
Characterization of Fabric Luster via Image Analysis
Authors: Anton A. , Johson K.A. , Jansson P.A.
Published: March 2007

Fabric luster is usually described visually (e.g. dull, bright, glittery, etc). Instrumental reflectance measurements have been applied to gauge luster, but these techniques only give overall reflectance values and do not adequately describe the luster. Image texture analysis, on the other hand, has been successfully applied to characterise luster. In the procedurc a fabric surface is photographed, the photonegative scanned on a digital microdensitometer, and the data processed in a computer. In the work described the images formed by light rellected from carpet surfaces accurately represent the carpet luster appearance. Quantitative and descriptive luster measurements show that people rate carpet luster mainly on the quantity and intensity of specular glitter points.
Development of a Method to Measure Cotton Spinnability
Authors: Graham John S. , Taylor Robert A.
Published: March 2007

The spinning quality of lint cotton is related to the efficiency with which the cotton can be processed into a fine yarn. An apparatus was developed to measure the force required to pull an end down during spinning (spinning strength). An electronic force pickup was used on a research ring spinning frame to measure peak yarn tension. Spinning-strength data fit a normal distribution curve. In two specific tests analysis of 2400 breaks taken on a single cotton roving showed, at the 95% level of confidence, that the average strength was within 0.6% of the true mcan, and that the standard de viation was within 3% of the true standard deviation. Of the design parameters tested, front-drafting roll pressure had the greatest influence on spinning strength. Spindle speed and the presence of the yarn-tension transducer did not influence spinning strength.
The Dimensions of 1 X 1 Rib Fabrics
Authors: Poole Hardy B. , Brown Peter
Published: March 2007

A literature review of the various fabric geometry studies of single-jersey and rib-knit fabrics is presented, and compila tion and comparison of some of the results for the latter are given. Fabric shrinkage is discussed briefly in light of the loop length, shape changes, and degree of intermeshing changes.
The Removal of Dust and Trash from Cotton Sliver by Segmental Drafting
Authors: Deluca Lloyd B.
Published: March 2007

Segmental drafting makes use of a roll with a discontinuous surface, located in the front, bottom position of a two zone drafting system. Segmental drafting removes more coarse trash and dust (larger than 43 μm) and slightly less fine dust than a continuous drafting roll used in the same position. Segment roll design, sliver production rate, drafting force, and draft ratio all have an effect on dust removal.
Studies on the Orientation of Cotton Fibers Under Stress
Authors: Kalyanaraman A.R.
Published: March 2007

The rate of change of orientation in cotton fiber bundles with rate of change of stress is very interesting. Although increase in stress improves the orientation, the rate of increase is complicated. These studies may ultimately throw light on the chemical behavior of cellulose under stress. This paper reports some preliminary investigations.
Blending Irregularity in Blended Yarns
Authors: Zurek Witold , Piwowarska Grazyna
Published: March 2007

Two methods of analysis of fiber composition is a cross section of hlended yarns are presented. One is based on the observation of cross sections of yarn in the microscope, and the second is based on the separation of fibers going through the cross section of the yarn, then counting the total number of fibers in the cross section, dissolving of fibers of one com ponent, and then counting the remaining fibers. To analyze which of the components influences more the blend irregu larity, the.use of Huberty's coefficient for both components is proposed. The coefficient of correlation between the num bers of fibers of both components can offer insight into the irregularity of local composition of blended yarns.
A SEM Study of Abrasion Damage to Cotton Fibers
Authors: Dweltz N.E. , Sparrow J.T.
Published: March 2007

Resin-finished cotton fabrics and their controls were subjected to accelerated laboratory abrasion on the Accelerator, the Stoll Flex Quartermaster Universal Wear Tester, and the wash wheel. Dry and wet abrasion were tested. Similar fabrics from actual garments put through normal wear trials were also investigated in order to compare abrasion damage occurring in normal wear life with that resulting from accelerated laboratory abrasion. Abraded fabrics were examined with the aid of scanning electron microscope, and examples of damage at the fiber level are illustrated. The type of fiber damage depends upon the abrasion test method adopted. Damage resulting from actual wear conditions is different from that resulting from any of the accelerated test methods employed and cannot really be simulated by any single laboratory test available at present. Therefore, it is not surprising that very poor correlation has been observed in the past between actual wear life of fabrics and accelerated laboratory abrasion tests.
Preparation and Spinning of Wool with the Rotor-Spinning System
Authors: Landwehrkamp Hans
Published: March 2007

When spinning wool on the rotorspinning system, some conditions for the choice of the wool and its preparation must be observed. Also, the spinning elements such as feed roller and plate, opening roller, feed channel, rotor, and doffing tube must be adapted to the specific demands for wool. These considerations have led to a successful industrial applica tion of the rotorspinning system for wool. Rotor spun wool yarns are used for woven fabrics for example, furnishings, upholstery, blankets, outerwear, and knitted fabrics.
Chemical and Physical Properties of Cotton Modified by N-Methylol Agents
Authors: Vail Sidney L. , Xiang Zhou
Published: March 2007

A study of the influence of cotton cellulose on reaction paths and rates involving intermediate oxonium-carbonium ions has been expanded to include a similar study of immonium-carbonium ions. A study of these mechanisms suggests that for acetal- or aldehyde-type reactions, cellulose can have an influence on reaction paths and rates, but for N-methylol-type reactions, cellulose would only be expected to have an influence on the rate. These generalizations depend on a number of factors and limitations which are discussed here for both the forward (cure) and reverse (recure or hydrolysis) reactions. Monomeric grafts or crosslinks to cellulose in the presence of formaldehyde crosslinks were found to be readily accessible to the hydrolytic medium. Considerations based on comparisons of the resistance to acid hydrolysis of cellulose ethers prepared from N-methylol methyl carbamate, its isopropoxy and acetoxy derivatives, and from N-methylolpyrrolidone suggest that these pure car bamates do not produce a pure finish. The finish from N-methylolpyrrolidone is considered to be pure and its formation in the presence of organic solvents and its resistance to hydrolysis were examined. Based on these studies the conclusion was that in comparisons of derivatives of cotton cellulose, chemical effects appear to determine completely the resistance to hydrolysis of a specific or pure finish. Further, leaving group effects from 2-, 3-, or 6-positions of cellulose play only a partial role, and cellulose appears also to influence the rates of reaction in a manner similar to the solvent in homogeneous reactions. Stronger or longer reaction conditions are needed for an agent to complete reaction because of a slower rate in certain portions of cotton cellulose during the cure. Links to cellulose formed in this manner produce a more durable finish. Generalizations made in this paper apply to conventional finishing and stripping conditions.
Friction in Fibrous Materials
Authors: El Mogahzy Yehia E. , Gupta Bhupender S.
Published: March 2007

In this part of the series, the effects of a number of structural and morphological factors on fiber friction are examined and rationalized on the basis of the structural model discussed in Part I. The factors are fiber cross-sectional shape, molecular ori entation, annealing, and fiber type. Friction tests have been conducted using techniques that allow measurements in both the point contact and line contact modes. Selected tests have also been done with the contact regions immersed in water. The results show that the coefficient of friction μ is higher for annealed than unannealed structures and increases with increasing molecular orientation. Circular fibers exhibit higher values than noncircular fibers. The value of the friction index a varies in the same fashion as the value of the coefficient of friction μ in all cases, except when fiber orientation is the variable. The friction index n increases with orientation and is higher for circular fibers than for noncircular ones. Wetting of the contact region or annealing of the structure has no effect on the value of n. Results are explained in light of the structural model presented in Part I.
In-situ Copolymerization and Crosslinking of Cotton Fibers for Improved Performance'
Authors: Choi H. , Yeh K.
Published: March 2007

A heterogeneous copolymerization of N-methylolacrylamide (NMA) and N,N-di methylacrylamide (DMA) with potassium persulfate was examined as a means of controlling the degree of crosslinking in a polymerization-crosslinking treatment of cotton fibers. The results indicate that in-situ copolymer composition is strongly affected by the relative adsorption / diffusion rates of the comonomers. The reaction mechanisms reveal that several competing reactions such as homo- and copolymerization of co monomers, graft copolymerization on the cellulose chains, and condensation of N- methylol with cellulose chains also result in the fixation of comonomers in the fiber. Increases in resilience and fiber strength retention reveal a dependence on the degree of crosslinking similar to that observed previously.
Relaxation and Inverse Relaxation of Yarns After Dynamic Loading
Authors: Vangheluwe Lieven
Published: March 2007

During weaving, warp yams are subjected to dynamic loading before stress relaxation during a loom stop. A test method is presented for simulating this behavior. There are three types of relaxation curves—simple relaxation, inverse relaxation, and mixed relaxation—depending on the previous load history of the yam. One can calculate the residual force at infinite time in a relaxation test from a model for the tensile curve of spun yams. There seems to be good correlation with the results of tests made using this method.
The Bed And Breakfast And Small Inn Industry Of The Commonwealth Of Massachusetts: An Exploratory Survey
Authors: Warnick Rodney B. , Klar Lawrence R.
Published: March 2007

The status of the bed and breakfast and small inn lodging industry in the Common wealth of Massachusetts was examined. Factors considered to be important were age and size of establishiments, organizational format, rate structure, occupancy rates, guests served, and management staff. Specifically, the study was undertaken to explore various industry characteristics specific to bed and breakfast establishments within Massachusetts and to determine whether any specific relationships or differences existed within the industry according to variables such as regional location, rate structure, and seasonal business patterns.
A Critical Incident Approach to Examining the Effects of Service Failures on Customer Relationships
Authors: Bejou David , Edvardsson BO , Rakowski James P.
Published: March 2007

This article presents the results of empirical studies of critical incidents in airline services in Sweden and the United States. The main aim is to describe and analyze service break downs from the customer's point of view and thus create a basis for crisis management. The aim is also to compare Sweden, a monopoly market, with the United States, a market with keen competition in airline services. The discussion is based on personal interviews with 320 customers and 80 airline employees in Sweden and 241 customers and 100 employees in the United States. The study focuses on negative critical incidents in the relations between the service provider and business passengers.
Factors Critical to the Success of Implementing Vintage Trolley Operations
Authors: Harris Robert , Masberg Barbara
Published: March 2007

Vintage trolleys currently serve tourists and shoppers destinedfor recreation, tourism, shopping, and convention facilities in 26 cities in North America and have become community icons and significant cultural heritage tourism attractions. This article reports the findings of a study to determine the factors critical to the success of vintage trolleys. Eight vintage trolley operations were investigated, and case studies of each operation were completed. A cross case analysis identified a total of 12 factors as either common to all operations or present in a majority of the vintage trolley operations.
Calcutta's labour migrants
Authors: de Haan Arjan
Published: March 2007

This article, drawing on fieldwork in Calcutta in the early 1990s, focuses on the variety of ways in which migrants'encounters with modernity have been structured and perceived. It takes 'modernity' as referring to a set of conditions relating to industrial work and living in the colonial and postcolonial periods. Rather than criticising the notion of modernity, it unpacks it and tries to show how different groups of migrants may have differentially perceived their move from countryside to city. It describes the relative continuity between rural and urban work, illustrated in a continuity of livelihood strat egies straddling rural and urban areas. It then goes on to describe how the experiences of labour migrants differed according to—and were structured by-gender, generation, regional, religious and caste backgrounds and identities.
Having the Authority to Know
Authors: Mukerji Chandra
Published: March 2007

This paper examines how people gain authority over areas of expert knowledge and use this authority to claim the right to make decisions in small group situations. Students who enter film crews are ranked and typed as members both of a school and of a crew. They claim decision-making authority based on these ranks. Thus, depending on the social characteristics students bring to crews, the authority and decision-making patterns of these groups can vary widely.
Patterns of Early Adult Status Attainment and Attitudes in the Nonmetropolitan South
Authors: Cosby Arthur G. , Thomas John K. , Falk William W.
Published: March 2007

Utilizing data from a study of Southern, nonmetropolitan youth, this paper reports the patterns of congruency and deflection in occupational and educational attitudes and attainment. Descriptive comparisons of status aspiration, expectations and attainment were made for 427 white and 268 black males from six Deep South states. Aspirations and expectation levels for future occupational and educational attainment were apparently "unrealistic" in terms of available opportunities and also appeared to be marginal related to present attainment. Although white levels of these variables somewhat exceeded comparable levels for blacks, both groups generally were found to have such unrealistic and optimistic attitudes. A hypothesis was offered where unrealistic future orientations are seen as having positive consequences in a success-oriented society for those who are not succeeding by allowing them to not admit failure by projecting future achievements.
The Computer Worker in the Labor Force
Authors: Loseke Donileen R. , Sonquist John A.
Published: March 2007

Mail survey and interview data are used to examine the work characteristics of persons employed in the computer field. The middle- and upper-middle strata of computer workers (programmers, analysts, engineers, academics and first-line managers) were studied. Specific job features examined include job content, pay and hours worked, employment and subemployment, job autonomy, and supervision. A new concept based on job content, "techno-metier", indicating the worker's relationship to technology, is found to differentiate among workers more clearly than the use of traditional job titles.
Peronism Yesterday and Today
Authors: Ciria Alberto
Published: March 2007

The socialist content of populist mobilizations, the persistent efficacy of the urban guerrillas, and the contradictions that managing a dependent capitalist economy prod uces, are among the principal weaknesses of official Peronism today. The analysis of these phenomena is essential to an understanding of Peronism, especially as events sug gest that it is moving to a close. Alberto Ciria's essay provides background to Peronism. He is Associate Professor of Political Science at Simon Fraser University in Canada. Nan cy Hollander explores the background and ideology of Evita Perón and ties her analysis to Peronism today; she also examines the role of women in Argentina today. She teaches history at California State University, Dominguez Hills. Michael Dodson looks at the ac tivities of radical priests and their role in promoting the return of Peronism. He teaches political science at Texas Christian University, Fort Worth. Finally, the commentary by Argentine sociologist Juan Carlos Torre, appeared in Pasado y Presente at the end of 1973. It is one of the very few commentaries on current working-class struggles by a competent observer. It reflects how the class struggles have moved to the center of Peronism, within the working-class movement itself as a struggle between the rank-and-file and the union bureaucracies. Not only is income redistribution more difficult for Peronism than it ever was before. It is not enough in terms of proletarian consciousness at this stage of develop ment. The inability to control the labor movement by persuasion or force is likely to speed up the historical closure of Peronism and open up the prospect of a more advanced revolu tionary movement. Juan Carlos Torre is a research sociologist at the Di Tella Institute in Buenos Aires. His essay was translated by Anna Marie Taylor of the Department of Span ish, University of Chicago.