bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Orientations Toward Home Sewing
Authors: Kean Rita C. , Levin Catherine O.
Published: January 2008

An exploratory study was undertaken to examine the orientations of persons who sew at home for their personal or their family's consumption. Objectives of the study were to 1) identify orientations toward home sewing, 2) identify clusters of home sewers using sewing orientations as criteria for group membership, and 3) propose a hypothesis for further testing. A survey instrument was completed by 105 females. Seven sewing orientations and five clusters of home sewers were identified. It was concluded that the individuals within the sample comprised a diverse group of home sewers. A hypothesis was formulated for further study. It was suggested that home sewing marketers and retailers aim promotional strategies to specific groups of home sewers and provide the appropriate product mix.
Fashion Information Seeking by Younger and Older Consumers
Authors: Chowdhary Usha
Published: January 2008

The study examined the frequency use of media by younger (college students) and older consumers (65 and over) for both sexes. The Total Design Method (TDM) of Dillman (1978) was used to conduct the research. Nine hundred and fifty older adults and 750 younger consumers participated in the study. Samples were selected from the list of registered voters and the residence hall directory, respectively. Adoption and diffusion of innovations guided the theoretical framework. Descriptive statistics, factor analysis, and t-tests were used to analyze the data. The findings revealed that younger consumers used media more frequently than older consumers and that females used media more often than did their male counterparts. Most commonly used sources of fashion information were identified for both younger and older consumers. Future implications for retailers and consumers were discussed.
Toward a Model of the In-Store Purchase Decision Process: Consumer Use of Criteria for Evaluating Women's Apparel
Authors: Eckman Molly , Damhorst Mary Lynn , Kadolph Sara J.
Published: January 2008

To identify criteria considered by consumers while making garment purchase decisions, free response interviews of 80 female customers were conducted at point of purchase in two specialty apparel stores. Subjects described the criteria they used to evaluate a garment they had tried on. The most important criteria for apparel assessment were related to aesthetics. Comparison of responses of customers who purchased and customers who did not purchase their garments revealed that different criteria had primary effects in two stages of the purchase process. During the Interest phase, color/pattern, styling, and fabric were most critical in influencing selection of garments from the display racks. Fit, styling, and appearance on the body were more important in determining rejection or adoption of the garments during the Trial phase in the dressing rooms. The research begins to fulfill a need for store intercept data collection, study of free responses minimally shaped by the researcher, and development of theoretical models of the apparel purchase process.
Textile Knowledge for Merchandising Professionals: Significance for Pedagogy in Clothing and Textiles
Authors: Fair Nancy B. , Hamilton Jean A. , Norum Pamela S.
Published: January 2008

Designed to explore ways in which undergraduate textile education could be strengthened, this study assessed perceived security with and importance of textile knowledge of merchandising graduates with regard to their job performance in retailing. Data are reported for 21 individual textile topics including importance/security interactions by topic and for perceptions of expectations of textile knowledge on the part of supervisors and peers. While the results are seemingly reassuring, they suggest problems with both superficiality and time specificity. They also raise a number of broader issues for pedagogy in the field. These include (a) concern with appropriating responsibility for curricular content, (b) the problem of communicating product knowledge as the structure of the communication system changes, (c) the preparation of students for participation throughout the soft-goods channel, and (d) the value of teaching from a global perspective so that students/professionals can remain adaptive to ongoing change.
Body Cathexis and Satisfaction with Fit of Apparel
Authors: LaBat Karen L. , DeLong Marilyn R.
Published: January 2008

Apparel as the product of standard sizing is reflected in female evaluation of self and body, i.e., body cathexis. This study focused upon body cathexis and the perceptions offit of clothing of 107 female consumers. Responses were measured on three scales: (1) satisfaction with fit of apparel at upper, lower, and total body; (2) satisfaction with fit at specific body sites; and (3) a body cathexis scale developed by Rosen and Ross. Analysis of data indicated satisfaction with overall fit at lower body was less satisfying than at upper body and total body. Satisfaction with fit at specific sites below the waist (hip and thigh) was also generally less satisfying than at sites above the waist (neck and arm). Fashion at the time, close fit at lower body, reflected in blue jeans and slim skirts, no doubt influenced more stringent evaluation of fit at lower body. The body cathexis scores were slightly lower for lower body and lower body sites. Correlation for lower body fit satisfaction and lower body cathexis was statistically significant, confirming a relationship between the respondents' satisfaction with fit and feelings towards personal body.
Using Geometric Models to Develop a Pattern for the Lower Bodice
Authors: Winakor Geitel , Beck Marvin S. , Park SookHyun
Published: January 2008

This exploratory research was intended to develop and test a pattern for the lower front bodice based upon quasi-conic surfaces having a hyperelliptical cross section. Data came from measurements of rigid body forms and from somatographs of these forms. Patterns calculated and plotted by computer were compared with patterns draped on the body forms. Experimental patterns based on rectangular cross sections were used to explore further the geometric nature of the body forms. Although reasonably good fit was obtained for some forms, quality of fit was limited by difficulties in obtaining consistent data from measurements and somatographs. Analysis of patterns generated helped to explain some limitations of using angle measurements from somatographs for pattern alteration.
Consumers of Hmong Textiles
Authors: Slaybaugh Jeanette , Littrell Mary Ann , Farrell-Beck Jane
Published: January 2008

Profiles of midwestern consumers of Hmong textiles were developed and recommendations were made for improved product design and marketing of Hmong textiles. Participants were 20 consumers of Hmong textiles. In-depth interviews were followed by participants' completing a questionnaire. Central to the interviews were the participants' 1) ranking a set of 10 Hmong textiles according to preference and 2) discussing their reasons for placement of textiles at the top and bottom ranks. Data were analyzed using a content analysis system and hierarchical cluster analysis. Six consumer profiles were developed for Fine Workmanship Consumers, Supporters of the Hmong People, Pragmatic Consumers, Patrons of Hmong Folk Art, Function-Oriented Consumers, and Color-Centered Consumers. The results contributed to a proposition that the majority of textile craft consumers fit a common set of profiles regardless of the textile craft purchased or the consumer's home locale.
Mentoring Relationships for Women in Retailing: Prevalence, Perceived Importance, and Characteristics
Authors: Gaskill LuAnn Ricketts , Sibley Lucy R.
Published: January 2008

This paper describes a study on the prevalence, perceived importance, and characteristics of mentoring relationships for women employed in middle and upper level retail positions in the southwestern region of the United States. Survey questionnaires were mailed to 466 female executives employed by specialty, department, or discount store retailers; 205 (44%) were returned and usable. Results of this study indicated that mentored mid-level executives reported more promotions over a five-year period than nonmentored executives and that upper level executives were more likely to be mentored than mid-level executives. Upper level women experiencing mentoring relationships reported higher levels of job motivation than did their nonmentored counterparts. Study results also revealed that upper level executives were more likely to have been mentored by someone of the male gender than were the mid-level participants and were more likely to have been mentored by an older individual. The similarity in the relationship characteristics for middle and upper level executives suggests that upper level executives who had been mentored were serving this function for other females in the organization. The findings indicate that mentoring relationships can be an important force in the career development of women in retailing.
Big and Tall Men as Apparel Shoppers: Consumer Characteristics and Shopping Behavior
Authors: Shim Soyeon , Kotsiopulos Antigone
Published: January 2008

This study explores big and tall men as an untapped market. More specifically, the study was designed to segment the big and tall men's apparel market by their clothing involvementand investigate its relationships to consumer characteristics and clothing shopping behavior. The big and tall men (n=172) reflected a wide range of clothing involvement and were classified into three groups: "low, " "medium, " and "high" involved consumers. These three groups were compared on consumer characteristics such as clothing orientations, lifestyle activities, and demographic characteristics and clothing shopping behaviors such as satisfaction with clothing shopping experiences and clothing buying practices. Managerial implications are provided for big and tall manufacturers and retailers.
Design Characteristics and Inspiration Sources of Depression Era Quilts
Authors: Blanchard Rebecca T. , Feather Betty L. , Wilson Laurel
Published: January 2008

One hundred and fifty eight Missouri Depression era quilts were documented and analyzed to characterize the design components and to substantiate design sources. The typical Missouri quilt made in the 1930s can be described as one which was pieced with scraps and purchased coordinating solids. It was moderately to heavily quilted by hand in more than one style to accent the different design elements. The whole design was contained by borders and was bound at its edges. Over 84 % of the quilts were traced to distinct pattern sources which included newspapers, magazines, catalogs, companies that sold quilt-making products, books, and exhibits. The Kansas City Star newspaper was one of the most influencial pattern sources.
Job Design of Patternmakers in Apparel Manufacturing
Authors: Staples Nancy J.
Published: January 2008

The job structure of apparel patternmakers in North Carolina manufacturing units producing women's and children's apparel in 1989 was examined Sixty companies met the eligibility requirement of employing their own patternmakers. Self-administered questionnaires were completed by patternmakers and managers during visits to the companies by the researcher. The response rate of 83 % represented 50 companies employing 79 female and 40 male patternmakers. The independent variables were fashion change frequency and organizational strategy. The dependent job structure variables were task differentiation, skill variety, task identity, task significance, autonomy, and feedback. Results indicate that companies with high fashion change frequency and analyzer strategy require patternmakers with strong patternmaking skills. Companies with low fashion change frequency and defender strategy require patternmakers with diverse pre-production manufacturing skills and minimal patternmaking skills. Implications for pattermnaker education and for future research are discussed
Perceived Store Performance and Retail Purchase Decisions of Buyers for Small Specialty Stores
Authors: Arbuthnot Jeanette Jaussaud , Sisler Grovalynn , Slama Mark
Published: January 2008

The purpose of the study was to examine perceived satisfaction with store performance in relation to selected information sources and selection criteria used in buying. Data were collected from a sample of 313 small specialty store owners/buyers who participated in a nationwide survey representing 37 states. Responses of owners/buyers that indicated a high level of satisfaction with store performance were compared with responses of owners/buyers that indicated a low level of satisfaction on 5 selection criteria factors and 10 information sources. Three selection criteria factors (Fashionability, Aesthetics, Quality) were significantly and positively related to satisfaction with store performance. Four information sources (store personnel/salespeople, resident buying offices, trade publications, exhibitions and trade shows) were also significantly and positively related to perceived satisfaction with store performance. One information source (seminars and workshops) had a significant negative relationship with perceived satisfaction with store performance.
Multisensory Integration of Visual, Tactile, and Olfactory Aesthetic Cues of Appearance
Authors: Fiore Ann Marie
Published: January 2008

Integration of olfactory, visual, and tactile aesthetic cues of appearance in the impression formation process was examined. Eighty-nine female college students, each responding to three fragrances, rated 30 fabric swatches on 7-point Likert-type scales as to the fabrics' likeliness to be worn by someone who prefers to wear a particular fragrance. Rank orders of fabrics for the two fragrances with similar olfactory structures were associated (p <. 05) whereas rank orders of fabrics for two pairs of fragrances with dissimilar structures were not associated (p > .05) according to Spearman correlations, suggesting multisensory integration of appearance cues. A priori visual and tactile aesthetic qualities of fabrics ranked high or low for each fragrance were examined for similarities. Similarities of visual and tactile qualities were found within each group of fabrics for each fragrance, suggesting multisensory integration of appearance cues on an aesthetic level.
Intercultural Communication: Appearance as a Factor in Attributional Confidence
Authors: Pradheepram Lathalini , Littrell Mary A.
Published: January 2008

Opportunities for intercultural communication are increasing on U.S. university campuses. Little is known about the impact of students' appearance in initial stages of intercultural classroom encounters. University students (n = 250) from the U.S. recorded perceptions of a projected partner for a classroom project. Potential partners were female and male students from India, dressed in Indian or western attire. Attributional confidence, the ability to predict how another person will behave and think during an interaction, was examined with a variety of intercultural communication variables included as covariates in the ANOVAs. U.S. students' attributional confidence toward the Indian partners varied little based on the partners' appearance. In two exceptions students evaluated partners differently when the students' experiences with a foreign teaching assistant and their interest in study and work abroad were covariates. Future research is recommended in which evaluations for specific social interactions are compared to more general evaluations of interpersonal attraction.
Comparison of Buyers' Job Content in Large and Small Retail Firms
Authors: Fiorito Susan S. , Fairhurst Ann E.
Published: January 2008

The purpose of this study was to compare the job content of apparel buyers in large and small retail companies. Data were collected from 100 department store buyers and 153 independent specialty store buyers in four merchandise categories: women's, men's, and children's apparel and other apparel and accessories. The Position Analysis Questionnaire was used to describe the buyer's job content with regard to 64 worker-oriented job elements. Bonferroni paired comparison t-tests were used to adjust for a Type I error. Results tended to confirm general perceptions that large store buyers (LSBs) were more quantitative, assertive, skillful in negotiations, and time conscious than were small store buyers (SSBs). SSBs appeared to be more consumer, community, and hands-on oriented than LSBs. Similarities in job content elements or universal components were also found Buyers in both sizes of organizations found the following job elements to be important or frequently used: judging quality, estimating quantity, making decisions, and personal sacrifice.
Animal Trademark Emblems on Fashion Apparel: A Semiotic Interpretation
Authors: Morgado Marcia A.
Published: January 2008

In Part I Peirce's trichotomy of icon, index, and symbol is described as the theoretical frame for analyzing signifying aspects of animal emblems; Panofsky's model of interpreting visual art forms is discussed as the method for interpreting the signs. In Part II representative emblems are interpreted and their signification proposed Iconic interpretation suggests that the signs affirm human dominion over the natural world and that they perform social gatekeeping functions. Indexical interpretation suggests the signs point to deception in social relationships and serve as metaphoric reference to conditions of angst and alienation. Interpretation as symbol reveals that the signs delineate relationships in the fashion goods hierarchy, stand as power markers, serve as archetypes of classical myth, and function as tokens of participation in the consumption ritual. The potential value of Peirce's trichotomy for further study of semiotics in clothing and dress is suggested.
The Process of Westernization: Adoption of Western-Style Dress by Korean Women, 1945-1962
Authors: Park Sunae , Campbell Warner Patricia , Fitzgerald Thomas K.
Published: January 2008

This paper details the process of Korean women's abandoning traditional dress and its accessories for the more functional western dress. We analyzed the reported reactions of a sample of Korean women to their experiences during the acculturation period from 1945 to 1962. The 21 women selected for interviews had lived in Korea through the acculturation period and were now living in the United States.

The findings generated from this study of Korean women's adoption of western-style dress during the acculturation period revolve around the variables of age and education, physical and psychological comfort, body image, societal and peer pressures, and clothing symbolism as ethnic identity makers. This exploratory study using acculturation as a framework for understanding the different reactions of Korean women showed that change has been dramatic and relatively swift, influenced by two major factors: age and educational background The adoption of western clothing by Korean women reflects their acceptance of this new cultural milieu.
Fashion Opinion Leadership, Fashion Innovativeness, and Need for Variety
Authors: Workman Jane E. , Johnson Kim K. P.
Published: January 2008

The purpose of this study was to identify the relationship between need for variety and four consumer groups: fashion opinion leaders, fashion innovators, innovative communicators, and fashion followers. We predicted that fashion opinion leaders, fashion innovators, and innovative communicators would have a greater need for variety than would fashion followers. Subjects were 425 undergraduate students. Hirschman and Adcock's Measurement of Innovativeness and Opinion Leadership was used to identify the four consumer groups. Need for variety was measured by the Sensation Seeking Scale. Data were analyzed using analysis of variance and the Student-Newman-Keuls test. Results indicated that there was a significant difference between fashion innovators and fashion followers on need for variety as measured by the experience seeking component of the Sensation Seeking Scale. There were no significant differences between fashion opinion leaders or innovative communicators and fashion followers on the Sensation Seeking Scale. Results suggest that part of the psychological makeup of fashion innovators is a greater need for variety in the form of mental stimulation than fashion followers possess.
Effect of Clothing on the Use of Person Information Categories in First Impressions
Authors: Burns Leslie D. , Lennon Sharron J.
Published: January 2008

The present study investigated the relative strength of perceiver and target person variables on person information categories used in first impressions. Descriptions of four target persons written by fifty-two females were content analyzed according to person information categories. Comparisons were made in amount of overlap in categories used when one perceiver described two target persons (1 on 2) dressed to convey either similar or different professional images, when two perceivers described the same target person (2 on 1) dressed to convey either similar or different professional images, and when two perceivers described two different target persons (2 on 2) dressed to convey either similar or different professional images. No differences in category usage were found for 1 on 2, 2 on 1, and 2 on 2 descriptions. Data were re-analyzed for valence (positive or negative tone) of the overall descriptions. As with category usage, agreement on valence of descriptions was similar for I on 2, 2 on 1, and 2 on 2. Results are discussed in terms of social perception research and methods used by researchers investigating person perceptions.
Analysis of the Mathematical Achievement of Students in a Fashion Merchandising Course
Authors: Flynn Judy Zaccagnini , Sandberg Sonja
Published: January 2008

Perceived lack of mathematical competence of students in a Fashion Merchandising course was a concern to faculty and students. Using an interdisciplinary approach, two professors, one in the Home Economics Department and one in the Mathematics Department, collaborated to determine which factors influenced performance on mathematical content and how to enhance mathematical skills. Goals of this research were to: (l) establish students' mathematical ability, (2) track their achievement during the fashion merchandising course, and (3) provide recommendations for improving student performance. Data on high school achievement (SAT scores), grades in college mathematics course, scores on a pretest and background data (i.e. age, hours of outside employment) were collected Correlation coefficients were calculated for these variables and the grade on the mathematical portion of the course. Students'progress was monitored throughout the course. The best predictor of the grade on mathematical content was the score on the pretest. The only other significant predictor was the overall grade in the course. The importance of consistently emphasizing mathematical content was found to positively aid students in their performance.
Clothing Values and Country of Origin of Clothing: A Comparison of United States and New Zealand University Women
Authors: Forney Judith C. , Rabolt Nancy J. , Friend Lorraine A.
Published: January 2008

University women in California (n = 108) and New Zealand (n = 101) were surveyed to determine the importance attributed to 18 descriptors defining nine clothing values. Awareness of, and concern about, clothing's country of origin were determined. Mean scores, t-tests and chi square analyses were done. Although a similar rank order of importance for clothing values exists for both groups with exploratory, economic, sensory, and aesthetic values rated highest, and social I (putting others at ease) and social II (approval from others) rated lowest, some differences were found. The New Zealand sample rated sensory, aesthetic, and political value descriptors significantly higher and one social II descriptor significantly lower than the United States sample. Both groups appeared to be more aware of, rather than concerned about, clothing's country of origin. The two groups differed in ability to recall country of origin. More New Zealand women were able to recall country of origin. Over half the United States sample but less than ten percent of the New Zealand sample recalled purchasing primarily imported apparel.
Apparel Selection Criteria as Predictors of Brand Orientation
Authors: Huddleston Patricia , Cassill Nancy L. , Hamilton Lucy K.
Published: January 2008

Over the last decade, demand for brand name apparel products in both discount and department stores has continued to rise. A better understanding of the brand oriented customer is needed to assist businesses in producing and marketing apparel products to meet consumer needs. The purpose of this study was to determine if apparel selection criteria (quality proneness, fiber consciousness, easy care preference and "made in the USA") were predictors of female consumers' brand orientation. A sample of 383 female consumers (ages 25-44) completed a mailed instrument concerning brand orientation and apparel selection criteria. Forward stepwise regression analysis revealed that quality proneness and "made in the USA" were predictors of brand orientation. Results have implications for educators in planning consumer programs and retailers in planning product and promotion mixes, understanding target consumers, and refining training programs.
Psychology of Color: Similarities Between Abstract and Clothing Color Preferences
Authors: Lind Charlene
Published: January 2008

Two studies, one of university students and one of non-students, of the similarities between color preferences as an abstract concept and color preferences for clothing are reported. Using Munsell color standards in a controlled viewing setting, subjects ranked preferences for 10 hues, the color of a favorite garment, and dominant colors in their wardrobe. Chi Square, Kendall Coefficient of Concordance and Friedman Two-way Analysis of Variance by Ranks were used in data analysis. Blue and purple-blue were most preferred hues for any use. Colors of favorite garments and dominant colors in the wardrobe were similar to stated color preferences. Findings support the importance of both biological and social factors influence on color preferences. Knowledge of color preferences is useful for planning colors of consumer products, but color preferences may be product specific. The 15 to 25% of subjects who selected different colors as most preferred for abstract color and clothing color present an obstacle to using clothing colors as indicators of personality traits.
A Typology of Apparel Shopping Orientation Segments Among Female Consumers
Authors: Shim Soyeon , Kotsiopulos Antigone
Published: January 2008

The purposes of the study are (1) to segment female apparel shoppers into unique apparel shopping orientation groups; and (2) to develop a profile for each segment with respect to information sources, importance of store attributes, lifestyle activities, patronage behavior, and demographics. Data (N = 482) were collected via a questionnaire sent to a nationwide random sample of 1,400 females. By cluster analysis of apparel shopping orientation factors, three groups are identified: (1) Highly Involved Apparel Shopper (46%); (2) Apathetic Apparel Shopper (34%); and (3) Convenience-Oriented Catalog Shopper (20%). These three groups were then compared on several characteristics through multivariate analysis of variance (MANOVA) and chi-square statistics. The results indicate that shopping orientations are a base for segmenting female apparel shoppers and these groups are unique in consumer buying characteristics. These characteristics include: (1) three factors of information sources (Store Fashion Service/Promotion, Fashion Publications, and Mass Media); (2) five factors of importance of store attributes (Store Personnel, Visual Image of Store, Customer Service, Easy Access, and Brand/Fashion); (3) two factors of lifestyle activities (Cultural and Grooming), and (4) other variables (patronage behavior, annual wardrobe expenditure, occupation, housing area and income).
Investigating Abrasiveness of Backing Fabrics for Historic Textile Mounting
Authors: Simpson LoErna P.
Published: January 2008

The study is a continuation of an investigation of abrasive textile fabrics used as backing fabrics in textile conservation. Whether for exhibition or storage purposes, frequently it is necessary to mount a historic textile to another fabric surface. Choosing a textile mounting surface that is not abrasive to delicate fibers in historic textile items is a consideration. A test method for evaluating abrasiveness was refined on eleven backing fabrics. The rubbing of a donor fabric (a fabric that contributed loosened fibers) against selected backing fabric specimens was done with the measurement of number of fibers transferred after ten crockmeter rubbing cycles. The four fabrics with the lowest abrasiveness fiber counts were the membrane film side for both a heavy and a lightweight laminate fabric structure, velveteen pile and muslin. The backing fabrics highest in abrasiveness were tulle, the nonwoven sides of the two laminate fabric structures, and sailcloth. Fabric construction was more influential in abrasiveness performance than fabric thickness or weight.
Can Professional Women Appear Too Masculine? The Case of the Necktie
Authors: Johnson Kim K. P. , Crutsinger Christy , Workman Jane E.
Published: January 2008

Women have been advised to adopt a masculine appearance to denote an executive role. But can women appear too masculine and consequently diminish their professional role and chances for promotion? A necktie (a masculine symbol), a scarf, and an open-collared blouse were used to investigate the effect of clothing on responses to a female middle manager. Ninety-three female subjects responded to a photograph modeling a female manager in one of three clothing variations. Subjects indicated how likely the individual pictured possessed traits identified as necessary for executive success. Subjects also indicated how likely the manager was to be promoted. Data were analyzed using factor analysis, multivariate analyses of variance, and the Newman-Kuel's test. Results indicate subjects rated a female manager wearing either a necktie or a scarf as more likely to possess managerial characteristics than when wearing an open-collared blouse. However, subjects rated the female manager wearing a scarf as more likely to be promoted than when wearing a necktie or an open-collared blouse.
A Theoretical Framework for Clothing Awareness
Authors: Lyon Lynn Krise , O'Neal Gwendolyn
Published: January 2008

Researchers in psychology developed a thought process theory which could be useful in integrating much of what we know and study about clothing. Information is collected and sorted, historic precedents are located in memory, and inferences are cross-checked with original descriptive information. The entire process takes only a few seconds. In this paper, thought process theory is outlined, a clothing example is given to illustrate how the process works, and research relating to each stage is examined.
Apparel Acquisition for Consumers with Disabilities: Purchasing Practices and Barriers to Shopping
Authors: MacDonald Nora M. , Majumder Ranjit K. , Bua-Iam Pisnu
Published: January 2008

Consumers with disabilities from State/Federal Vocational Rehabilitation programs were surveyed to determine the consumers'profile, apparel acquisition practices including preferred shopping site, knowledge of distributors of apparel for consumers with a disability and perceived economic risk, and the frequency and causes of apparel shopping barriers for consumers with functional limitations. Independent apparel selection decisions were made by most of the 625 respondents who rarely had someone shop for them. They purchased apparel more frequently at department, discount, and mass merchandise stores located preferably in shopping malls. While most of the respondents were unaware of retailers of functional apparel, they were willing to spend more for such apparel. Women had more difficulty than men with architectural barriers. Major obstacles were fitting rooms, space between aisles, restrooms, steps, traffic routes through stores, curbs, and merchandise location.
Technology Innovativeness and Adopter Categories of Apparel/Gift Retailers: From the Diffusion of Innovations Perspective
Authors: Shim Soyeon , Kotsiopulos Antigone
Published: January 2008

This study using diffusion of innovation theory examines the influence of perceived characteristics of innovation, individual characteristics, and organizational characteristics on retailers' technology innovativeness. Apparel and gift retailers from five western states (N = 804) were classified into five adopter categories: Innovators (6%), Early Adopters (8.1%), Early Majority (20.6%), Late Majority (41%), and Laggards/Non-Adopters (28.2%). Multivariate and univariate analysis of variance with Tukey's HSD test revealed that these five groups differed overall on perceived characteristics of innovation (relative advantage, compatibility, and observability), individual characteristics (information-seeking, age, education, formal computer training, gender, retail experience in years, seminar attendance, perceived profitability), and organizational characteristics (store sales volume, city size, business competitiveness, and store's actual profitability). Discussion about the differences among the groups is presented along with theoretical, managerial, and educational implications.
Equity, Attribution, and Reactance in Giving and Receiving Gifts of Clothing
Authors: Manikowske Linda , Winakor Geitel
Published: January 2008

This study explores equity, attribution, and reactance theories as they relate to giving and receiving gifts of clothing. About 100 each of male and female subjects responded to a set of affective statements written to express the three theories and other aspects of giving and receiving clothing gifts. Factor analyses of responses resulted in four factors for each sex, three of which were similar in content. For each sex, the first factor concerned receiving gifts and incorporated the three theories. The following two factors were concerned with giving gifts, one factor emphasizing the recipient's well-being, the other factor the self-esteem of the giver. Content of the fourth factors differed for males and females. Attribution, equity, and reactance statements did not form separate factors, but were mixed with other statements. Results supported suggestions in the literature that theories overlap in explaining gift-giving behavior. Findings were consistent with others' reports of sex differences in gift-giving behavior and attitudes.
Comparison of Apparel Production Systems: A Simulation
Authors: Oliver Barbara A. , Kincade Doris H. , Albrecht Donna
Published: January 2008

The purpose of the study was to analyze efficiencies of three production systems used in the apparel industry, "push" (bundle), kanban, and "team" (modular). A simulation model developed by the Textiles/Clothing Technology Corporation ([TC]2) was implemented and the "product" was retractable ball point pens. Three university faculty who were veterans of a [TC]2 seminar that focused on this simulation conducted the study. A 3x3x3 (production system x order x university) factorial with Latin Square design was implemented. Multivariate analysis of variance (MANOVA) tests were run and Least Significant Difference (LSD) comparison tests conducted to compare differences among pairs. Dependent variables were number of units produced, units in process, number of defects and average time (in seconds) per unit produced. Significant differences were found in relation to dependent variables, the production system used and order in which systems were introduced. Implications were given regarding implementation of the production systems within the apparel industry and utilization of the simulation model in the apparel production classroom.
Maja Dress and The Andalusian Image of Spain
Authors: Worth Susannah , Sibley Lucy R.
Published: January 2008

This study examines use of maja costume to express the Andalusian image of Spain. The visual appearance of the costume is described and its wearers are identified. Portraits and other works of art, extant costumes, and travel accounts were the primary sources of data. Works of art and stage productions, including ballets with Spanish themes, traveling Spanish dance troupes, and Bizet's opera Carmen have contributed to and perpetuated the Andalusian image of Spain. The use of the maja costume to symbolize Andalusia and Spain is discussed.
Construction of an SI Theory of Fashion: Part 3. Context of Explanation
Authors: Nagtsawa Richard H. , Kaiser Susan B. , Hutton Sandra S.
Published: January 2008

This final paper of a three-part series focuses on the context of explanation in the development of theory. We illustrate how our SI theory of fashion may be used to explain regularities and how those regularities may be used to explain singular occurrences. The theory presented in the first part of this series is used to explain phenomena in the deductive sense. How theories subsume and thereby organize findings into a body of knowledge is illustrated Recommendations for a wide variety of approaches to the study of fashion change in appearance styles are provided.
Garment-Doffing Kinematic Analysis
Authors: Todd Wendy L. , Norton Marjorie J. T.
Published: January 2008

This research sought to develop a method to identify the critical upper-body movements in the doffing of a selected garment type, and to develop and test a method for quantitative kinematic analysis of doffing. Two nightgowns, one short and one long, were purchased and replicated in sheer fabric. Twelve critical movements were observed regardless of which of the four garments was doffed The adaptation of a three-dimensional motion analysis system, WATSMART, to quantify doffing movements was equivocal in terms of reliability and validity. WATSMART was consistent within and between doffing trials in tracking movement patterns. It was valid in recording the sequence, directions, and types of motions; however, large divergences were found in the arms' angular displacements when comparing within and between doffing trials. Despite WATSMART's mixed performance, three-dimensional analysis shows promise in providing useful information about the body's movements in the doffing process.
Aesthetics: A Comparison of the State of the Art Outside and Inside the Field of Textiles and Clothing Part Two: Object
Authors: Fiore Ann Marie , Kimle Patricia Anne , Moreno Josephine Maria
Published: January 2008

This is the second of three papers in which we review aesthetics literature published from 1970 to 1992, found outside and inside the field of textiles and clothing. In this paper we review Object literature, including perception and preference of formal, expressive, and referential aspects of the object and its functions. For this paper, the literature external to the field of textiles and clothing came in large part from books and journal articles of the fields of anthropology, marketing, and psychology. We limited our review of textiles and clothing literature to articles found in Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Dress, Home Economics Research Journal, Journal of Consumer Studies and Home Economics, and Textiles Research Journal. Much research within textiles and clothing has focused upon the visual and tactile qualities of the object that lead to preference of the fonn. Suggestions for future studies are given. Future studies of visual qualities should conceptualize the problem of pleasingness using concepts tapping underlying stimulus characteristics. Designing research using these variables should promote theoretical explanations of the nature of the aesthetic object, essential for the understanding of object to move forward.
Fabric Hand as Perceived by U.S. and Korean Males and Females
Authors: Kim Hyunsik , Winakor Geitel
Published: January 2008

The purpose of this research was to explore the possibility of developing comparable sets of unipolar adjectives for consumer evaluation of fabric hand for English and Korean speakers. To better understand differences in use of adjectives, the researchers examined (a) how male and female respondents in the United States and Korea apply these adjectives and (b) their preferences for hand for a specific end use for members of the judge's own sex and for the other sex. The research included four phases: focus group interviews, word list development, trial, and final data collection. Stimuli were selected to represent shirting fabrics for U.S. and Korean males and females. Subjects were 70 Korean males, 70 Korean females, 70 U.S. males, and 68 U.S. females. Three hypotheses were examined by using analyses of variance; comments made during focus group interviews suggested interpretations of results. Sex and country interacted to affect responses to fabric hand; sex and country differences were found in fabric preferences for persons of the judges' sex and for persons of the other sex. Results provided implications for international manufacturers and retailers and for researchers using affective stimuli.
Acute Extrapyramidal Syndromes in Neuroleptic-Treated Elders: A Pilot Study
Authors: Ganzini Linda , Heintz Ronald , Hoffman William F. , Keepers George A. , Casey Daniel E.
Published: January 2008

The incidence, morbidity, and risk factors for acute extrapyramidal syndromes (EPS) such as akathisia and drug-induced parkinsonism (DIP) in neuroleptic-treated elders have not been systematically explored. This study presents data on 17 elderly patients who were prospectively examined for up to 4 weeks for acute EPS, functional and cognitive status, and behavioral disturbances. Seventy-one percent of subjects developed DIP, and 18% developed akathisia. Predictors of DIP included pre-neuroleptic treatment parkinsonian signs and neuroleptic dose, despite use of low doses of neuroleptics. Development of acute EPS was associated with failure to improve behaviorally. New-onset urinary incontinence was the most common functional abnormality. ( J Geriatr Psychiatry Neurol 1991;4:222-225).
Longitudinal Analysis of Nortriptyline Side Effects in Elderly Depressed Patients
Authors: Miller Mark D. , Pollock Bruce G. , Hind Rifai A. , Paradis Cynthia F. , Perel James M. , George Charles , Stack Jacqueline A. , Reynolds Charles F.
Published: January 2008

Forty-five depressed elderly patients were closely monitored in a research setting during treatment with nortriptyline and interpersonal psychotherapy for 7 consecutive months of acute and continuation treatment. Overall, nortriptyline was efficacious and well tolerated in this group. The frequency of somatic complaints measured by the Rating Scale for Side Effects declined by 50% during the acute phase of treatment, suggesting that many somatic complaints that may be attributed to side effects of nortriptyline are actually somatic symptoms of depression. The authors discuss the implications of these findings and offer practical advice for the treating clinician. ( J Geriatr Psychiatry Neurol 1991;4:226-230).
Teachers as leaders: a case study
Authors: Gunter Helen M. , McGregor Debbie , Gunter Barry
Published: January 2008

Current popular and officially mandated models of leadership position teachers as followers. Transformational leadership is based on the integration of the self into organisational goals, and so the teacher must either feel, or be seduced by, the charismatic vision of the leader if schools to are to deliver outcomes that will meet the needs of the predicted future economy. While the rhetoric is of participative problem solving, the reality is of control and compliance. Creative pedagogy, through which teachers have the capacity to exercise professional courage over learning processes and needs, is being reworked into target setting and auditing and so by its very nature can only pay lip service to educational values. Being 'led' and being prepared to be led is marginalising alternative ways in which teachers can and do understand and experience their work. Teachers as leaders is not a new approach, but is being silenced through the current policy discourse (Gunter 2001). This article makes a contribution to making teacher leadership visible through an analysis of the CASE (Cognitive Acceleration through Science Education) project within the Department of Education at Keele University.
The round of the year
Authors: Rowan David
Published: January 2008

Fitting appraisal into the year's cycle of events makes it part of the furniture, and that's the way to quality it seems - Ed.
How was it for you?
Authors: Reed David
Published: January 2008

Assess yourself against this checklist at how one primary school organised its appraisal system - Ed.
Potential Threat Defused
Authors: Hattersley Molly
Published: January 2008

An LEA survey in Camden schools found a brighter view than some of the schools reporting in this issue. Quite a relief! Ed.
You Win Some, You Lose Some
Authors: Embery Chris , Jones Jeff
Published: January 2008

In contrast to the negatives from Copley and Thomas, attitudes to appraisal at the Bishop of Hereford's Bluecoat School were distinctly swings and roundabouts but it led to a helpful checklist - Ed.
Appraisal at the Crossroads
Authors: Nixon Judy
Published: January 2008

If you've read this far, you'll be finding that all is not sweetness and light in the application of appraisal outcomes. This school discovered the same and tried to find a route through. - Ed.

Appraisal is at a crossroads; the enthusiasm generated in the first round of appraisals is beginning to wane and it is vital that staff see practical outcomes from the process.
Service with a Smile: The Primary School Secretary
Authors: Crawford Megan
Published: January 2008

Share this one with your Secretary provided your budget will accommodate a salary increase for the role - Ed.
Napoleon Reborn?
Authors: McNay Ian
Published: January 2008

Controversial views against which to test your own. Whatever your phase of education, there are echoes here for you. And women readers, note the implications for keeping out of Committees - Ed.
Get Rid of the Net Shops!
Authors: Thody Angela
Published: January 2008

'Hastings Council and English Heritage are to spend £40,000 restoring 48 Victorian net shops for fishermen's gear to their original condition' (reported in The Guardian), 26 September 1995.
Becoming a middle manager in school
Authors: Blandford Sonia
Published: January 2008

This article examines briefly the rationale, role and demands of middle management in schools.
Headship? No thanks!
Authors: James Chris , Whiting Denise
Published: January 2008

Set against the current interest in participation in the NPQH, this article looks at the factors which may influence the decision of deputy headteachers not to seek headship.
HEADLAMP: headteachers' reactions
Authors: Gunraj Judith , Rutherford Desmond
Published: January 2008

Do heads matter? The evidence from research and inspection, as well as from our own experience, tells us that heads do indeed make a difference. The authors report on their evaluation of a programme for newly appointed heads.
True to its promises
Authors: Sassoon David
Published: January 2008

Everyone in power is entitled to a honeymoon period. Unsurprisingly, Tony Blair's government has had a rather longer honeymoon stint with the public than most other governments. Liz Allen, Policy and Research Officer with Education Network — who addressed BEMAS South-East on 7 March 1998 — would like to think that this has been so for positive reasons. Others would argue that it is entirely because Labour has been out in the cold for 18 long years.
Socratic dialogue in a secondary school
Authors: Saran Rene
Published: January 2008

During 1997 the author facilitated a Socratic dialogue with ten girls and boys drawn from Years 8 and 10 at Hampstead School. All were elected members of the School Council, which from time to time reviews the school's rules and classroom code. She therefore suggested the topic 'Are Rules Necessary?' Most of this article is a report on the students' dialogue.