bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Comfort of Subjects Clothed in Cotton, Water Repellent Cotton, and Orlon1 Suits
Authors: Galbraith Ruth L. , Werden Jane E. , Fahnestock M.K. , Price Barbara
Published: March 2007

The effect of wearing clothing made from cotton, water repellent cotton, and Orlon fabrics of similar constructions on the comfort of women subjects seated in an environ ment of 94° F and 80% RH was determined. In no case did the subjects state that they were hotter in one suit than in another nor were there differences in the total weight losses, evaporative weight losses, rectal temperatures, or times of onset of sweating of the subjects when clothed in the three suits. However, the water repellent cotton suit did have a lower weight gain during the tests than did the untreated suit and, conse quently, left more liquid moisture on the skin of the subjects. If the subject perspired freely, this liquid moisture on the skin was rated as a source of discomfort.
Studies on Wool Yellowing
Authors: Milligan Brian , Tucker Daryl J.
Published: March 2007

The yellowing of wool fabrics caused by exposure to sunlight differs from that produced by some artificial light sources. Atlhough the initial pH of the fabric has little effect on the rate of sunlight yellowing in the pH range 4-10, mild treatment with alkali subsequent to yellowing increases the discoloration. The effects that bleaching, shrinkproofing, and other chemical treatments have on yellowing by subsequent exposure to sunlight are discussed.
The Effect of Fiber Configuration in Feed on Comber Waste
Authors: Wakankar V.A. , Bhaduri S.N.
Published: March 2007

The effect of the fiber configuration in the feed to the comber on the waste extracted has been investigated at different step-gauge settings and with different cottons. Experi ments have been conducted with normal combing and with combing without the top comb. With normal combing, the waste decreases with decreasing fiber disorder, and at a given fiber disorder it generally decreases with a reduction in the number of trailing hooks fed. However, with a high degree of fiber disorder in the feed. the waste tends to increase with a decrease in the number of trailing hooks fed to the comber. Without the top comb, the comber almost always extracts more waste when leading hooks predominate in the lap, irrespective of the fiber disorder. These results have been critically examined. and a hypothesis has been formulated with respect to the mechanism of waste removal at combers, to explain the observed facts.
Through-Flow Drying of Tufted Textile Materials
Authors: Brock J. Don , Gorton Charles W.
Published: March 2007

It is shown in this investigation that by forcing heated air through the material, tufted carpet can be dried in approximately one-fifth the time required in present industrial dryers. An experimental study showed that the variables which influence the pressure drop across the carpets tested can be correlated with two dimension-less groups. This correlation can then be used to predict the drying time for the constant-rate period.
Preparation of Very Small Representative Samples of Raw Cotton
Authors: Goldthwait Charles F.
Published: March 2007

Since immature cotton fibers are colored green and mature fibers red in differential dyeing, this technique has been employed to show visually how well the fibers are mixed in the sampling of cotton. It has been shown by such dyeing that raw cotton usually con tains groups of immature fibers that tend to remain in groups that are not completely broken up and distributed, even in very small test specimens prepared for cross sectioning. The danger has also been shown of too much confidence in the mixing of fibers by me chanical blending, and of excessive loss of immature fibers, as at the combing stage of sampling. The representativeness of subsamples and of small test specimens was im proved, using differential dyeing of portions of subsamples at intermediate steps in sampling and of parts of final specimens as a guide. An extension of this type of study could well resutt in the improvement of standard procedures for the sampling of raw cotton.
Elastic Properties of Plain and Double Knit Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Fletcher Hazel M. , Roberts S. Helen
Published: March 2007

The elastic behavior of plain and double knit fabrics was studied before and after laundering. Thirty-four fabrics were knit of 24/1, 20/1, and 16/1 cotton yarns. Elonga tion, recovery, and growth were determined by a manual method and by the Instron machine set at predetermined extension. Also, elongation and growth were measured with loads of 2 and 4 lb applied manually and after extension of 10% in lengthwise specimens and of 30% in widthwise specimens. Relationships of cover factor to elongation and to growth were studied.
Studies on Decrystallization of Cotton
Authors: Patil N.B. , Dweltz N.E. , Radhakrishnan T.
Published: March 2007

X-ray methods have been used to measure crystallinity and crystallite dimensions in cotton fibers that have been swollen in aqueous solutions of caustic soda, ethylene diamine, and zinc chloride. Different times, temperatures and concentrations of swelling agent have been used. Optimal decrystallizing conditions are given, together with re sidual crystallinities and crystallite sizes. The inter-relation between crystallinity and crystallite size is discussed.
Cellulose Studies
Authors: Arendt Volker D. , Pacsu Eugene
Published: March 2007

In an attempt to establish unambiguously the presence of the nonreducing end group in cellulose when treated under nondegrading conditions, different celluloses were sub jected to exhaustive methylation, using sodium hydroxide and dimethyl sulfate in toluene. Other methods of methylation were also investigated. Samples with 43.8% methoxyl content were obtained which were found suitable for this investigation. Identification and quantitative estimation of tetramethyl glucose, which originates from the nonre ducing end of the cellulose chain, involved hydrolysis, extraction of the tetramethyl glucose from the main component, trimethyl glucose, and chromatographic analysis.

Paper, thin-layer, and gas chromatography were used in the analysis and special techniques were developed for each method. Identification and quantitative estimation by gas chromatography were accomplished for the methyl glucosides and the trimethyl silyl derivatives of the methylated glucoses. Isolation of crystalline tetramethyl glucose and the preparation of its anilide derivative provided unambiguous proof of the presence of nonreducing end groups in cellulose when treated under nondegrading conditions. It was observed that methyl tetramethyl glucoside is volatile at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. This is advanced as a probable reason for the previously reported absence of nonreducing end groups in cellulose.

The quantitative method of tetramethyl glucose estimation, in relation to the tri methyl glucose content, was used for the determination of the number average degree of polymerization of cellulose. For methyl celluloses of different origins, these were found to be: 908% ± 18% for cotton cellulose, 465% ± 21% for a commercial methyl cellulose, and 197% ± 20% for viscose rayon cellulose.
Chemical Structure of Resin-Treated Cellulose1
Authors: Willard J.J. , Turner R. , Schwenker R.F.
Published: March 2007

The nature of the interaction of trimethylolmelamine resin with cotton substrates, arising from the dry curing (ca. 140° C for 4 min) of the resin on cotton, has been in vestigated. A new chemical analytical method is described for the elucidation of the chemical structure of the resin-treated cottons. It is expected that this method will constitute the basis of a general method for the chemical structural analysis of resin- treated celluloses. Data are presented which show cheruical evidence for covalent bonding of the resin to cellulose and that some of the cellulose hydroxyl groups at each position, i.e., C6, C2, and C3, are involved in resin substitution (C6 > C2 > C3). The presence of interchain cross links is indicated. The results also indicate lower DS than anticipated from the resin content of the treated cottons analyzed.
A Transition Temperature in Wool Fibers Under Stress in Relation to Structure
Authors: Weigmann Hans-Dietrich , Rebenfeld Ludwig , Dansizer Cornelia
Published: March 2007

The temperature dependence of the mechanical properties of wool fibers was investi gated in relation to sulfhydryl concentration and disulfide bond decrease. It was shown that only the highest level of modification (200 μ mole SH/g) influences the properties in the Hookean and yield regions. This effect could be assigned partly to the increase in SH content and partly to the decrease in disulfide content. In the post-yield region. the influence of chemical modification was much more pronounced and became evident even at the lower levels of fiber modification.

The "turn-over point" between the yield and post-yield regions underwent a transi tion at 72° C for the untreated fibers. The transition temperature was found to be strongly dependent upon the SH content, decreasing with increasing sulfhydryl concen tration. In the absence of SH groups, the transition temperature was increased to approximately 85° C and was independent of the disulfide content. This transition is discussed in terms of the stability of the disulfide bond, which is closely connected with the probability of an interchange between disulfide bonds and SH groups. It is suggested that the transition indicates the onset of a chemical flow region in the matrix rather than a glass transition as proposed by other workers.
Stress-Strain Relationships in Yarns Subjected to Rapid Impact Loading
Authors: Smith Jack C. , Fenstermaker Carl A. , Shouse Paul J.
Published: March 2007

If a textile yarn, marked at intervals along its length, is struck transversely by a rifle bullet, a flash photograph taken shortly after impact will reveal a shifting of the marks caused by passage of a strain wave. Analysis of these shifts provides data on the dis tribution of strain and strain velocity in the wave. Tests were performed on specimens of a high-tenacity nylon and a high-tenacity polyester yarn, to determine strain-velocity distributions at various times after impact and at various impact velocities. The observed distributions were then compared with the predictions of a theory which assumed that stress-strain behavior was independent of strain rate. From discrepancies between theo retical and observed results, it was concluded that at strain levels up to 9%, significant creep and stress relaxation occurred within 30 μ sec after impact, but in the time interval 30 μ sec to 300 μ sec, creep and stress relaxation were negligible. For strains of the order of 1%, the 30 μ sec creep and stress relaxations at the point of impact were of the order of 15% and 5%, respectively.
Correlation of Nylon Tirecord Properties with Tire Flatspotting
Authors: Claxton W.E. , Forster M.J. , Robertson J.J. , Thurman G.R.
Published: March 2007

The theory of flatspotting in tires is reviewed and found to be in essential agreement with that given in earlier publications. The importance of cord moisture content (humidity), temperature, and dynamic response rate in affecting the flatspotting per formance of tirecords is emphasized. Two methods are discussed for favorably altering the viscosity-temperature relationship of nylon tirecords: (a) incorporation of moleculea of bulky groups along the polymer chains (achieved through blending with other poly mers), and (b) plasticization. A new, dynamic flatspot cord testing machine is described which permits close simulation of tirecord stress cycles that duplicate the flatspotting phenomena under various cord moisture contents (humidity test atmospheres) corre sponding to both summer and winter driving conditions. Good correlation is obtained between the laboratory test results and tire results. Applications of the test machine in screening prospective low flatspotting tirecord materials is discussed.
The Specificity of Certain Phosphine Derivatives as Reducing Agents for the Disulfide Bond in Wool Keratin
Authors: Sweetman B.J.
Published: March 2007

It is suggested that, while the phosphine derivatives tetrakis-hydroxymethyl phos phonium chloride and tris-diethylaminomethyl phosphine can readily reduce disulfide to thiol in wool, they also lead to the formation of some monosulfide (lanthionine) in hydrolyzates of wool samples, together with what is apparently thiohemiacetal (—SCH2OH) in the intact wool. Furthermore, examination of hydrolyzates of these reduced wool samples reveals probable modification of lysyl, tyrosyl, prolyl, and histidyl residues. These observations must limit the use of these reagents in cases where specific modifications of proteins are required.
Delayed Cure With Ionizing Radiation1
Authors: Walsh W.K. , Rutherford Henry A.
Published: March 2007

The use of ionizing radiation as the delayed step in a durable-press process has been investigated. Methylol acryl article is reacted monofunctionally with cotton by a pad- dry-cure procedure, using acid catalysis. The fabric is washed free of all unreacted chemicals, made into garments, and cross-linked at room temperature with β rays 2 from a machine irradiator. The machine used in the experiments is capable of finishing up to 8,000 pairs of slacks in an 8-hr shift.
Influence of Swelling and Mowosubstitution On the Strength of Cross-Linked Cotton
Authors: Gagliardi D. D'. , Wehner A.
Published: March 2007

The reduction in the wear resistance of cotton fabrics in wrinkle-resistant, wash-and- wear, and durable press garments is shown to be related to the lowering of fiber, yarn, and fabric toughness resulting from concentrated cross-linking of limited regions of the cellulose polymer network. Various approaches which have been suggested for improv ing over-all toughness in cotton fabrics are reviewed and discussed. A new concept is presented for achieving major improvements in tensile strength, elongation, tear strength, toughness, flexing resistance, and surface abrasion resistance of wrinkle- resistant cotton fabrics. This concept involves the swelling of cotton fibers to increase the sites for chemical reactions, introduction of bulky, plasticizing side groups, and, finally, cross-linking the distended polymer network to achieve more uniformly placed cross links than is possible in existing methods.

Preliminary experimental data are presented for several cases which help to support the above concept. Both by sequential swelling, substitution, and cross-linking and also by one-step reaction with fiber-reactive swelling agents, it is demonstrated that substantial improvements may be obtained in all or some of the various fabric mechanical properties. Studies are described on the characterization of the swelling effect of various organic structures and on the synthesis of cellulose-reactive monofunctional and polyfunctional swelling analogs. Aqueous solutions of increasing concentrations of such compounds are shown to produce variously shaped swelling-concentration curves. When cross-linking swellable, substituted cotton fabrics, much less strength and toughness reduction is produced than is normally obtained in unmodified cotton. Some esterifica tion reactions, however, themselves produce some strength loss prior to cross-linking and need to be improved. Others, such as carbamylation, ethoxylation, and grafting have given higher strength retention. In some cases, substantial increases in both flex and surface abrasion resistance have been produced. This work is continuing in attempts to synthesize the most efficient monofunctional and difunctional cellulose swelling and reactive pair of reagents.
Photochemistry of Cotton and Chemically Modified Cotton
Authors: Daruwalla E.H. , D'Silva A.P. , Mehta A.C.
Published: March 2007

A study has been made of photochemical degradation of cotton, mercerized cottons, partially acetylated cotton, and partially cyanoethylated cotton, during exposure to carbon-arc radiations under different conditions of atmosphere in the system and during exposure to selected wavelength bands in the visible and uv of sunlight. Exposed fiber substances have been examined for both mechanical and chemical damage suffered, and explanations have been put forth for the behavior of modified cottons on the basis of the nature of the modification effected through different treatments.
A Comparison of the Tensile Properties of Kemp, Mohair, and Wool Fibers
Authors: Hunter I.M. , Kruger P.J.
Published: March 2007

A comparative study has been made of the breaking strength and extension-at-break of mohair, kemp, and wool fibers. The results point towards the presence of material in the medulla of kemp fibers, which does not contribute significantly towards the breaking strength of the fibers but which has a dielectric constant comparable to that of the rest of the fiber. Breaking strengths of kemp and mohair fibers are significantly higher than those of merino and German merino fibers.
Wet-Fixation DP Process—Polymer Deposition1
Authors: Hollies Norman R. S.
Published: March 2007

When made into simulated cuffs and laundered twenty times, twill fabric given a wet-fixation treatment was found to abrade quite differently from twill finished by a pad-dry-cure process. Sections of these fabrics examined in the electron microscope revealed an even distribution of resin in the wet-fixed samples and little tendency for fibrillation from beating or washing. The expansion techniques of the SURDD applied to these sections revealed a tight bonding of cellulose layers in the wet-fixed samples. Samples from the same treatments examined in the transmission-interference microscope revealed a definite loss in internal birefringence in the wet-fixed samples and a smaller loss in the pad-dry-cure samples, revealing again a difference in degree of penetration of the resins from the two systems. In addition, with this means of viewing in which the treated fibers appear in brilliant interference colors, there was clear indication of sub stantial polymer formation inside the fibers given the wet-fixation treatment. This is possible because the refractive index of these fiber sections can be measured directly, and this technique provides an interesting avenue for future studies of resin-treated cottons of optimum performance.

Both types of treated cotton were observed in replica experiments, each showing a fiber surface coating, presumably of resin, masking the surface striations of untreated cotton. Strength and elongation measurements on yarns and fibers from these same samples revealed, however, that neither treatment resulted in measurable interfiber sticking or bonding. Instead, the differences in strength and elongation noted in the fabrics were even more pronounced in the yarns and fibers of each. Only the wet-fixed samples retained a substantial portion of the original cotton fiber strength and elongation properties. If these particular changes in cotton introduced by the wet-fixation process are the main ones responsible for the enhanced performance of treated fabrics, then it appears that there may be several routes to placing resins in the right location in cotton for effective use. Vapor-phase grafting may, indeed, be an example of such a variation.
Wet-Fixation Durable-Press Process—Reactions with Cellulose
Authors: O'Brien S. James , Hagan Patricia M. , Nakajima William N. , Roth Phillip B. , White David
Published: March 2007

The nature and extent of the reactions involved in the two-step, wet-fixation durable- press process of Getchell and other processes have been determined by means of a perio date oxidation method. The wet-fixation, durable-press process is shown to differ from the acid colloid process and other wet-fixation procedures. The variations show up in terms of the concentration of the methoxymethylol compound and reactant fixed on the fiber and the extent to which covalent crosslinking of cellulose occurs.

The results indicate that in the wet-fixation, durable-press process the methoxy methylmelamine results in only a relatively low degree of cross-linking, but it is, never theless, durably fixed to the fabric, probably as a low molecular-weight polymer. It also appears to interact with and moderate the strong cross-linking tendency of the reactant. Predrying the fabric before wet-fixation leads to a greater degree of cross linking. The nature of the reactant influences the results obtained. The degree of methoxymethylation of the melamine compound also has an effect on the final result which appears to be related to the ability of the methoxymethylmelamine to resist the rinsing (neutralization) step after wet fixation which, in turn, appears to be related to the tendency of the various methoxymethylmelamines to form low polymers.
Cross-Linked Silicone Films in Textile Finishing
Authors: Welch Clark M. , Bullock Joel B. , Margavio Matthew F.
Published: March 2007

Dimethyl silicone imparted wrinkle recovery values of 250-285° to various types of fabric when the silicone was cross-linked as a film on the cotton. To enhance this effect, a small amount of cellulose cross-linking was carried out using dihydroxydimethylol ethyleneurea without added metal salt catalysts. Conditioned wrinkle recoveries of 288- 308° and wet recovery angles of 302-310° (W + F) were obtained. The combination treatment has been adapted to durable-press techniques. High crease retention and wash-wear ratings were obtained on sateen after 30-45 machine launderings, with major abrasion damage occurring only after 45 cycles. The application of cross-linked silicone by coating as well as impregnation methods was carried out prior or subsequent to differential (one-sided) cross-linking of fabric: High crease retention and wash-wear ratings after 30 launderings were obtained on twill by this means. Possible effects of these treatments on both the interior and exterior of the cotton fiber are discussed.
Relation of Intermicellar Bonding and Some Mechanical Properties of Swollen Cotton Fibers
Authors: de Boer J.J. , Borsten H.
Published: March 2007

An attempt has been made to define the course of the load—elongation curves of cotton fibers as a function of three variables. The physical meaning of these variables has been traced. They can be described as orientation f0, coherence n/nT and easily ac cessible and easily broken bonds m0/ nT.

Afterwards an analysis has been made of the load—elongation curves of differently treated fibers and it has been established as to how far the tensile strength, the elongation at break, as well as the elastic properties might be predicted from the values of the variables. Finally, attention has been paid to the causal coherence of these mechanical properties and the derived physical quantities.

1 Fafegraph-Stein, München-Gladbach.
The Application of Radioisotopes in a Study of Fiber Breakage During Recombing on the Rectilinear System
Authors: Aldrich de V.
Published: March 2007

A radioactive marker has been used to assist in the direct observation of the influence of fiber diameter and length on fiber breakage during recombing on the rectilinear system. The average diameter of the broken fibers was found to be 5.6% lower than that of the originally marked fibers, and fibers longer than a certain "threshold length" suffered significantly more breakage. The majority of portions broken off were in the interval 0.2 to 0.5 cm. Good agreement has been obtained between the percentage fiber breakage, as obtained by observing singly marked fibers and by calculation using the conventional formula.
Chemical Investigation of the Sulfur-Containing Amino Acids and Sulfur Content of Persulfate-Oxidized Wool
Authors: Kantouch A. , Bendak A.
Published: March 2007

The sulfur content and the sulfur-containing amino acids in wool are greatly affected by oxidation with persulfate. The sulfur content apparently increased due to uptake of sulfate radicals by the wool as a result of the persulfate treatment. This could be reversed by a bicarbonate treatment, and the real trend is a decrease of sulfur with increasing the oxygen consumption.

Cystine decreased rapidly in the early stages; with further treatment, no further loss in cystine can be detected. Methionine and its oxidation products could not be detected in the oxidized wool, while lanthionine is only found as traces in the persulfate- treated wool at alkaline pH values. Infrared spectroscopy, carried out to detect other oxidation products without hydrolysis of the wool, gave bands due to sulfoxide, sulfinic, and sulfonic acid groups in the persulfate-oxidized wool. Cysteic acid was found in the hydrolyzate of the persulfate-oxidized wool and could be estimated ionophoretically. Cysteic acid content increased with the degree of oxidation and was found to attain a limiting value of 7.5% at an oxygen consumption of more than 4.30.
Studies in Wool Yellowing
Authors: Holt L.A. , Inglis A.S. , Lennox F.G.
Published: March 2007

When wool which has been yellowed by irradiation with a fluorescent sunlamp is bleached with hydrogen peroxide, its susceptibility to subsequent photochemical yellow ing is increased. In addition, its strength is diminished and three successive irradiations and peroxide bleachings reduce the tensile strength to a quarter of its original value. Bleaching with peroxide followed by hydrosulfite causes losses of strength and chemical changes similar to those produced by peroxide alone. On the other hand, susceptibility to yellowing by heating dry or in pH 8 buffer is not increased by previous heating and peroxide bleaching nor is there any appreciable loss in strength.

Saturation of the peroxide solution with sodium chloride reduces its bleaching action but has little effect on the fall in tensile strength during repeated alternate uv yellowing and bleaching. Impregnation of wool with thiourea and formaldehyde to retard uv yellowing confers some protection against loss in strength but also diminishes the bleaching effect of peroxide.

The concentration of thiol plus disulfide groups is progressively lowered by the successive bleachings, regardless of the method used for yellowing. The concentration of "apparent thiol" groups is increased sharply by each uv treatment, and to a small extent by dry heating, but not by heating in pH 8 buffer.
Studies in Wool Yellowing
Authors: Kirkpatrick A. , Maclaren J.A.
Published: March 2007

With the aim of inhibiting the yellowing of wool by sunlight, organic substances representing a wide variety of different chemical types have been padded from solution onto wool fabric. After exposure under standardized conditions to a filtered xenon arc or to sunlight, the extent of yellowing of the treated fabrics has been compared visually and quantitatively by reflectance measurements. Of 270 substances tested so far, sixteen showed marginal inhibition of yellowing.
X-Ray and Optical Orientation Measurements on Single Cotton Fibers
Authors: Duckett Kermit E. , Tripp Verne W.
Published: March 2007

Diffraction patterns from single fibers have shown sufficient resolution in the 002 density peaks expected from near perfect spiral structures that direct measurements may be made independently of any theory. Single walls from fractured weakened fibers are observed between crossed polarizers and give an easy measure of fibril orientation. Both sets of measurements are used to corroborate the results obtained from a theoretical analysis of the 002 diffraction arcs recorded for bundle samples.
Knitting Performance of Wool Yarns: Instrumentation Studies 1
Authors: Knapton James J. F.
Published: March 2007

The knitting performance of a yarn, in terms of the work Ty required to knit the yarn into jersey fabric, is measured hy use of a sensitive torque transducer located on the driving shaft of an experimental knitting machine. Using this technique, the knitting per formances of a variety of worsted wool yarns are studied, and the effects of input tension, yarn/metal friction, yarn/yarn friction, twist level, and the WURLAN shrink-resist treatment on knitting performance are investigated.

By the use of a mathematical analysis, the knitting behavior of a worsted yarn with changes in input tension is shown to be essentially similar to that predicted. Under normal commercial knitting conditions, Ty is directly proportional to yarn/metal friction but independent of yarn/yarn friction. It is proposed that if the coefficient of yarn/metal friction ≤ 0.2, little trouble will be encountered in the knitting of wool yarns, and that the sometimes irregular appearance of knitted wool fabrics may be attributed to both spin ning irregularity and the magnitude of yarn/metal friction. The knitting performance of a multi-filament nylon yarn is also shown to be dependent on yarn/metal friction.

The use of yarn feeding devices at the standard knit construction reduces Ty at any input tension, confirming that higher knitting speeds, increased efficiencies, and more regular fabric are attainable. The effect of yarn/metal friction on knitting performance is substantially decreased by the use of positive feed. An increase in twist factor from 1.8 to 2.8 had little effect on Ty, although slightly increased values are found for high- twist yarns. However, the WURLAN interfacial-polymerization wool shrink-resist treatment increased T y as much as 60% at normal input tensions. This effect seemed to be unrelated to measured changes in yarn/metal friction and yarn flexural rigidity, but could possibly be due to changes in yarn/yarn friction.

Some interesting observations of the mechanical performance of knitting machinery are also reported in this paper.
An Investigation of Cloth Bending
Authors: Stuart I.M. , Mann R.K.
Published: March 2007

A set of postulates, called the remanent curvature hypothesis, is proposed to de scribe the behavior of cloth in creasing. The differential equations describing the behavior of a loop of fabric in loading and unloading are established and integrated for a range of values of a parameter which measures the susceptibility of a fabric to retain a crease or wrinkle. The loading and unloading curves so obtained are compared with experimental results. Up to loads of 4 kg, the geometric similarity predicted by the theory is maintained, although the shape of the experimental unloading curves differs from the theoretical curves at low loads.
Sonic and Ultrasonic Irradiation of Cotton Fibers
Authors: Boucher R.M.G. , Staples M.L.
Published: March 2007

An investigation was made of the effects of exposure to sonic and ultrasonic energy on the physical and chemical properties of Deltapine and Acala 4-42 cotton irradiated in partially degassed water. From the results of more than 1300 different tests, it appears that some of the cotton fibers properties can be modified. However, the main changes observed to date appear to be of a physical and not of a chemical nature. Cavitation, specially vaporous cavitation, has been singled out as the main factor responsible for fibers modification. Frequency and acoustic energy density in the liquid phase play a key role only because they indirectly control the intensity of cavitation phenomena. The importance of sample size for uniform irradiation has also been stressed. Irradia tion around 30 kcps with an energy density of 20 watts/liter and a cavitation activity of 220 cavits lead to strong fiber surface modifications and fibers entanglement after a few hours of insonation. Evidence of severe fibrillation has been established not only by optical and electron microscopic techniques but also through alkali swelling tests and Micronaire readings.

Generally speaking the Deltapine variety of cotton grown under conditions of natural rainfall seems slightly more susceptible to cavitation effects than Acala 4-42 grown under irrigated conditions. It has also been clearly established that contrary to nonirradiated fibers, ultrasonically treated cotton enables to make paper sheets of acceptable tensile strength. From both the theoretical and experimental viewpoint a rather promising avenue seems to have been opened for future large scale ultrasonic fibrillating of fibers suspension.

On the negative side we must mention that due to absorption phenomena high-power sonic irradiation does not seem a very promising tool for trash removal from raw cotton.
Reactive Polymer Finishes for Wool
Authors: Whitfield R.E. , Remy D.E. , Pittman A.G.
Published: March 2007

A study of the application of several reactive urethane elastomer finishes [based on polyesters or polyethers] to wool is reported. The polymer is applied to the wool in an organic solvent and cross-linked by a diamine applied separately in aqueous solution. Several textile properties of the treated wool are reported. The treated wool has good resistance to felting shrinkage during machine laundering with little or no alteration in the desirable physical and textile properties of the wool.
Dimensional Stability of High-Bulk Acrylic Knit Fabrics1
Authors: Hurley R.B. , Duby R.G.
Published: March 2007

The dimensional stability of single jersey fabrics knitted from high-bulk acrylic yarns produced on the Turbo stapler is examined. Geometric changes occurring during bulking, and dimensional stability of the finished fabrics during machine-washing (120°F) and tumble-drying (165°F) are discussed in terms of Munden's theory of knit fabric stability. The effect of bulking under both relaxed conditions and with an along-wale tension of 0.003 g/den is described.
The Effect of Oil and Water on Jute Fiber Friction
Authors: Bandyopadhyay S.B. , Bose B.K.
Published: March 2007

The coefficient of friction between jute fiber pads has been measured after treatment with jute batching oil, water, and oil-water emulsion. The variation of friction with moisture regain, in the presence of oil or without it, has been studied and explained in terms of molecular bonding and factors influencing the area of real contact. The lubricating action of oil is seen only when the fiber is very rough or when its regain value is above 35% to 40%; otherwise batching oil increases friction.
Differential Thermal Analysis of Wool—The Phase-Transition Endotherm Under Various Conditions1
Authors: Haly A.R. , Snaith J.W.
Published: March 2007

Wool samples in vacuo, as well as samples sealed with various amounts of water, were studied by differential thermal analysis (DTA). In all cases, a phase-transition endotherm, often a doublet, was observed. The temperature of the first peak T m depends on the amount of water present, heating rate, level of disulfide reduction, and type of keratin fiber. Parallel x-ray studies showed that the conformation of the polypeptide chains in samples at room temperature, after heating to the completion of the endotherm, depended on the first three of these parameters. Tm was 142°C for a Merino wool heated at 3.8°C/min in a sealed tube with an amount of water greater than 80% of the dry weight of the wool and, after fusion, the sample showed no x-ray reflections other than a diffuse ring at 9.8A and the usual halo at 4.15Å. Cystine-reduced samples similarly treated and unreduced samples sealed with 7-10% of water subsequently gave a sharp arc at 4.65A, indicating the presence of partially disoriented β-crystallites. Relative entropies of transition were computed from the DTA curves and showed a correlation with the x-ray results. For instance, when the relative entropy was low the x-ray patterns showed loss of the α-form and appearance of the β-form, but when the relative entropy of transition was high, the α-pattern was replaced by one showing no specific ordered form.
The Behavior of Fabrics in Shear
Authors: Spivak S.M. , Treloar L.R.G.
Published: March 2007

The effect of heat-setting on the properties of a nylon monofil fabric in shear has been investigated, and considerable changes have been found to occur. These changes particularly depend on whether heat-setting is done with the specimen held at fixed dimensions or allowed free contraction. Photographs of the actual contact area at fila ment crossovers are presented to interpret many of the resulting shear properties. It has also been found that bending properties of the filaments were unaffected by heat-setting, and that the bending stiffness of the filaments may significantly contribute to the fabric shear resistance.

In addition, a new dynamic method of measuring the cyclical/energy loss of the fabric in shear has been devised. General agreement was found between loss values thus obtained, and with those obtained by the static method described in an earlier paper (Part I).
Knitting Performance of Wool Yarns: Effects of Yarn/Metal Friction, Loop Length, and Cover Factor on Knitting Performance
Authors: Knapton James J. F.
Published: March 2007

The knitting performance of wool yarns, in terms of the work required to form the loop configuration of the plain-jersey structure, is shown to be dependent not only on the magnitude of the yarn tensions developed in the knitting zone, but also on the yarn forces at "knock-over," the loop length, and the design of the latch needle hook. On measuring knitting performance against cover factor for a range of worsted count wool yarns and a multi-filament nylon yarn, knitting performance is found to be inde pendent of the type of yarn being knitted and only dependent on the effective yarn diameter. However, at the standard commercial cover factor of 1.25, knitting perform ance is independent even of count. The concept of the "knitting performance factor" is introduced as a means of comparing the knittability of wool yarns of differing physical properties.
Correlation of the Electrical Resistivities of Fabrics With Their Ability to Develop and to Hold Electrostatic Charges
Authors: Ramer E.M. , Richards H.R.
Published: March 2007

Surface and volume resistivities, charge generation by friction with nylon, poly ethylene and Teflon, and rates of decay of charge in air were determined for 29 fabrics at 25, 38, and 65% RH. In addition, the coefficients of kinetic friction were determined at 65% RH. The initial charges generated were approximately the same for all the fabrics and were independent of relative humidity for the range used. However, these initial charges varied with the surfaces against which the fabrics rubbed, but the varia tion has no relationship to the coefficients of friction. For some of the fabrics, the decay curves (In voltage/time) were linear. However, for most of the fabrics, the decay curves were linear only after several minutes, and these curves are shown to be the sum of two linear components. Good correlation is shown to exist between the electrical resistivities and the rates of charge decay, especially at low values of relative humidity.
Strength of a Textile Webbing Connection
Authors: French Kenneth E.
Published: March 2007

Textile webbing straps are usually connected to a load by insertion of a bolt or fitting through a looped end in the strap. The strength and efficiency of such a connection are analyzed in this paper. Several simplifying assumptions, e.g., a linear elongation- load characteristic for the webbing, negligible friction, etc, are made. The analytical results are compared with test data for Nylon and Dacron webbing straps with various end-loop configurations. The comparison shows that the analysis of loop strength and efficiency is approximately correct. Both theory and test data indicate the need for close specification of loop configuration parameters during design.
Study of the Reversal Phenomenon in the Fibrillar Structure of the Cotton Fiber
Authors: Raes G. , Fransen T. , Verschraege L.
Published: March 2007

The work presented here is a part of a fundamental study on the nature and origin of structural reversals in cotton fibers and their relation to mechanical properties. Special attention is drawn to the reversal distance distribution. In a first attempt, the observed distribution is adjusted to a combinapon of two Poisson distributions. The rather arti ficial systems which have to be visualized in order to relate the parameters of this com bined distribution with a possible growth model and the fact that no evidence could be found for the existence of two distinct causes for reversal generation, gave rise to certain suspicion about the validity of the proposed adjustment.

A more thorough analysis of the observations leads to the conclusion that the observed frequency distribution shows significant periodicities which are presumed to be inherent in the generation of reversals. The distance between two consecutive modi in the fre quency-distribution curve is of the order of 200-250 microns. From these observations and from information in the literature, a fiber growth model has been sugegsted. If this model can be accepted as true, it shows that between visible reversals there must be places in the fiber with structural properties similar to the structure of the visible reversals.

In order to corroborate this statement, a new and improved technique has been de veloped to perform more than one tensile test on the same single fiber, with jaw space at zero gauge. Sufficient data have been gathered which indicate that the strength ob served between reversals is about 25% higher than the strength of the same fiber at reversals.
Suspending Power and Soil Removal in Detergency
Authors: Ford Oliver E.
Published: March 2007

A theory is proposed which allows quasi-quantitatively to distinguish and separate the effects of soil removal and suspending power of a detergent. The procedures allowing experimental realization of the theoretical concepts are indicated.
Vapor-Phase Treatment of Cotton, Fabrics with Formaldehyde Catalyzed by Sulfur Dioxide1
Authors: Wilson Katherine , Gamarra Jose , Swidler Ronald
Published: March 2007

A process has been developed for cross-linking cotton fabrics with formaldehyde at temperatures between 80°C and 130°C using sulfur dioxide as a catalyst. Reaction times of 2-5 min are required. To obtain wrinkle recovery angles between 300° and 330°, fabrics should be pretreated with a soft film-forming additive. Wash-wear ratings of 41 2 and crease retention ratings of 4 were obtained with twill. Trouser cuffs made from twill or printcloth had approximately double the laundering life of cuffs of equal wash-wear ratings made with Permafresh. Fabrics treated with formaldehyde retained their wrinkle recovery values through at least 15 wash-dry cycles. Ammonium chloride, substituted for the sulfur dioxide catalyst, caused the desired amount of formaldehyde to react in 1-2 min. When zinc nitrate was substituted for sulfur dioxide, the reaction required 5-6 min.
Nonwoven Fabric Studies
Authors: Hearle J.W.S. , Newton A.
Published: March 2007

A study of the behavior of fiber—binder systems has been carried out by bonding single fibers together and carrying out tensile tests on these systems. The behavior at low strain has been related to the tensile properties of the fibers and the shear properties of the binder lying between the fibers. At high strain, failure occurred due to either fiber rupture or slippage of fiber through the bond. The difhculty associated with the prediction of which effect will occur is demonstrated.
Alterations in Structural and Mechanical Properties of Wool Fibers Versus Sheep's Age
Authors: Wlochowicz Andrzej , Marchlewska Teresa
Published: March 2007

This study deals with changes in birefringence, degree of crystallinity, density, content of ortho and paracortex, tensile strength, elongation-at-break, and percent of medullated fibers in samples of wool taken from a permanently marked place on the side of a sheep during various periods of its life. It has been found that these charac teristics change with the age of the animal, their magnitudes mostly increasing. Partic ularly interesting are the changes in birefringence, which increases from 0.0090 at lamb's birth to 0.0128 after 365 days, and changes in the degree of crystallinity which vary within the range of 26-32%, depending on the fiber growth. It has also been noticed that the ratio of ortho to paracortex diminishes with the sheep's age and the tensile strength of the fiber increases.
Effect of Fiber Diameter in the Liquid Scintillation Counting of Wool Labeled by Reaction with [2-3H] and [2-14C] Iodoacetic Acid
Authors: Downes A.M. , Till A.R.
Published: March 2007

Wool samples were labeled by reaction with aqueous solutions containing [2-14C] iodo acetic acid or [2-3H] iodoacetic acid. The counting rate of each sample was measured, firstly, with the 'wool suspended in a liquid scintillation solution (direct method) and, secondly, after oxidizing the same sample and dissolving the products in another liquid scintillation solution. The counting rate determined by the direct method depended on fiber diameter, because of self-absorption of β-particies by the wool, whereas the counting efficiency of the oxidation method was constant. The ratio of the counting rates, direct/ oxidized, for 14C-labeled samples decreased linearly from 1.30 to 0.96 as the mean diameter increased from 14 to 35 μ. With 3H-labeled wool, the inverse ratio, oxidized/ direct, increased linearly from approximately 5.5 to 10.5 with increase in diameter from 14 to 35 μ.

It was also shown that wool samples may be labeled with a known amount of 14C by reaction with [2-14C] iodoacetic acid dissolved in a liquid scintillation solution. The results, which show that the reaction occurred uniformly through the fiber, provide the basis for a new method of measuring mean fiber diameter.
A Liquid Scintillation Counting Technique for the Determination of the Mean Fiber Diameter of Wool Samples Labeled with [14C] Formic Acid
Authors: Downes A.M. , Till A.R.
Published: March 2007

A simple method of labeling wool in vitro with a known amount of 14C has been developed. Accurately measured volumes of a liquid scintillation solution, containing a small proportion of [14C] formic acid, were added to the wool samples in counting vials. After the formic acid had been absorbed by the wool, the counting rates of such samples depended on mean fiber diameter and on the degree of quenching of the scintillations. When the counter was operated at the appropriate ("balance-point") settings for each series of samples with the same degree of quenching, the counting rate fell linearly with increasing mean fiber diameter. Although the fall in counting rate was small— approximately 1% for a 1-μ increase in diameter—the results indicate that the accuracy of the method is sufficiently high to provide a new rapid method of measuring mean fiber diameter of large numbers of samples. An important advantage of the method is that the counting rate at the balance-point is independent of the presence of small amounts of vegetable matter. When vegetable matter is absent, the degree of quenching, which is measured simultaneously, is probably closely related to the yellowness of the wool and may, therefore, provide a useful index of this property.
Effect of Noncellulosic Material on the Actinic Degradation of Cotton Fabric
Authors: Wiles D.M. , Cooney J.D. , Gingras B.A.
Published: March 2007

Cotton duck samples were treated with derivatives of salicylaldehyde or with copper complexes of these derivatives, and were exposed in a carbon-arc Weather-Ometer. The effectiveness of the treatments in reducing the rate of photo-induced depolymeriza tion of cotton cellulose has been related to (a) the volatility of the treating compounds and complexes, (b) the ability of the compounds to form intramolecular, six-member chelate rings; and (c) the absorption of the treating materials in the spectral region of most intense emmission from the carbon-arc light source. Comparison with oxine and copper oxinate has been made.