bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Water in British India: The Making of a ‘Colonial Hydrology’
Authors: D’Souza Rohan
Published: June 2006

The environmental history of India has moved on and considerably broadened since the first studies of Indian forestry were published. This essay surveys studies on water in British India, which it has clustered into three themes. While providing a rough description of some of the most important debates and discussions on the issue of colonial rule and its hydraulic interventions, the essay argues that interest on the subject must now attempt to pursue grand questions as well. Towards to this end, it is argued that much insight and theoretical traction may be gained from pursuing the conceptual notion of a ‘colonial hydrology’: the attempt to characterise the British experience as comprising an altogether distinct paradigm for hydraulic interventions.
Reading Landscapes: The American Suburbs
Authors: Scanlon Jennifer
Published: June 2006

Recent scholarship problematizes the dichotomous reading of the American suburb as either middle‐class nirvana or homogeneous wasteland. Suburbs are spaces where race, class, and gender can be read onto landscapes in new and provocative ways. This article explores how suburban history was presented and explored in a gender and women’s studies/history course on the suburbs and their representation in American popular culture.
Correlation between the bioelimination of anionic dyes by an activated sewage sludge with molecular structure. Part 1: Literature review
Authors: Greaves A.J. , Phillips D.A.S. , Taylor J.A.
Published: June 2006

Published literature from the past 30 years concerning the removal of dyes from textile effluent has been reviewed. The relationship between the bioelimination by activated sewage sludge and the molecular structure of anionic, water‐soluble dyes has been examined. Bioelimination of many commercially available dyes as a mechanism for decolorising textile waste waters has been shown to be an inefficient process. However, the information collated will be used as the basis for development of novel reactive dyes for potential commercial application.
The preparation of Bunte salt‐terminated surfaceactive agents and their use in wool fabric shrinkproofing
Authors: Lewis D M
Published: June 2006

Model reactive surfactants based on Bunte salt acetate esters of dodecanol and 1, 12‐dodecane diol have been prepared, with mono‐, di‐ and tri‐functionality, with respect to the Bunte salt group. With the exception of the monofunctional Bunte salt derivative, all these compounds readily polymerise to polydisulphides. When applied to wool fabrics by a pad‐batch procedure, in the presence of sodium sulphite, all of these reactive surfactants gave excellent shrink‐resist properties, although the amount required varied. The trifunctional derivative was the most effective in terms of the minimum concentration required to achieve shrink resistance.
Feasibility of a one‐step process for desizing, scouring, bleaching and mercerising of cotton fabrics: dyeing kinetics of direct dyes in a finite bath
Authors: Min R R , Huang K S
Published: June 2006

The purpose of this study is to explore the effect of dyeing kinetics of direct dyes on cotton fabrics which have been pretreated by the one‐step method. The results indicate that as the dip temperature or curing time is decreased, the equilibrium absorption and rate constant increase, while the activation energy decreased, Furthermore, all the measures of dyeing indicated poorer results with the one‐step method than the conventional method, although there was no significant difference observed in terms of the structural diffusion resistance constant.
Modelling of integration dyeing of a wool package with acid dyes
Authors: Cegarra J , Enrich F , Pepió M , Puente P
Published: June 2006

This paper describes the behaviour observed during integration dyeing of a cross‐wound wool package with an anionic dye of the supermilling type. The relationships between levelness and the variables dosing time, temperature, liquor flow rate and dye concentration in the fibre, at pH conditions corresponding to the isoelectric point of wool were examined. An increase in the flow rate and of the dye concentration during the dosing was found to improve dyeing levelness, while an increase in temperature and a decrease in dosing time impaired levelness.
The effect of mercerisation on the electrokinetic potential of cotton
Authors: Pusić T , Grancarić A M , Soljaçić I , Ribitsch V
Published: June 2006

Mercerisation changes the fine structure, morphology and conformation of cotton cellulose chains (cellulose I to cellulose II), resulting in a variation in fibre strength and lustre as well as adsorption properties. Recently it has been shown that mercerisation also changes the electrokinetic behaviour of cotton. The aim of the work presented here is to study the behaviour in unmercerised and mercerised cotton. The zeta potential of cotton fibres was measured by the streaming current method, using an EKA electrokinetic analyser. The relationships between zeta potential and the pH of a potassium chloride solution on the one hand and the point of zero charge (PZC) on the other, determined by titration with a cationic surfactant (cetylpyridinium chloride), were investigated.
Enzymes as auxiliary agents in wool dyeing
Authors: Riva A , Alsina J M , Prieto R
Published: June 2006

The action of three enzymes has been comparatively studied when used as auxiliary agents in dyebath. The absorption rate of the dye, the colour differences between wool dyed with and without enzymes and the colour fastness were determined. The action of enzymes consists of increasing dye absorption and also seems to produce a better diffusion of the dye into the fibre. The use of the enzymes in wool dyeing offers the possibility of dyeing under mild temperature conditions.
Effects of a bolaform electrolyte on the sorption of acid dyes by a silk fibre
Authors: Hamada Kunihiro , Qian Jiahe , Mitsuishi Masaru
Published: June 2006

The sorption behaviour of sodium 1‐phenylazo‐2‐hydroxy‐6‐naphthalenesulphonate and sodium 1‐(3‐methylphenylazo)‐2‐hydroxy‐6‐naphthalenesulphonate by a silk fibre was investigated in the presence and absence of a bolaform electrolyte. The addition of the bolaform electrolyte influenced the dye sorption to an extent that was dependent on the pH of the dyebath. At pH 3 the amount of dye sorbed by the silk fibre decreased slightly with increasing bolaform electrolyte concentration, while at pH 4 and in pure water it increased. The sorption parameters determined from the sorption isotherms considering the dual sorption mechanism were affected by the addition of the bolaform electrolyte: most importantly, the partition coefficients were significantly enhanced. Furthermore, the effects of the bolaform electrolyte on the dye sorption by the silk fibre were quite different to those seen with a nylon 6 film.
Dye and fibre discoveries of the twentieth century. Part 3: Building bridges between dyes and fibres
Authors: Park James , Shore John
Published: June 2006

The oil crises of the 1970s had a devastating impact on the economic viability of fibre makers, dye makers and textile processors. A major theme in the last quarter of the century has been the spate of mergers resulting from these changes and thus the authors have refrained from crystal‐ball gazing. Research and new product development have been both more selective and more costly since health and safety issues became primary concerns.
Screen printing variables and their effect on print paste consumption
Authors: Lomas M , Short I G
Published: June 2006

This investigation evaluates the effects on print paste consumption of altering screen printing variables in rotary‐ and flat‐screen printing. An analysis of fabric consumption factors for a 100% coverage screen on a number of different substrates is reported. Average factors are calculated for each substrate and the uptake variations brought about by altering squeegee size, magnet pressure, mesh size, machine speed and print fall‐on recorded. Paste viscosity remained constant throughout the investigation. The fabric factors, together with screen open area percentages available from the laser engraver, are used to predict the amounts of paste required to print a designated length of fabric. A laboratory Zimmer magnetic rod printer is used under controlled conditions to draw comparisons with the bulk printing results. The data shows that the major influencing variables are squeegee size, machine speed and print fall‐on effects.
Modification of polyester fabrics by in situ plasma or post‐plasma polymerisation of acrylic acid
Authors: Öktem T , Ayhan H , Seventekin N , Piskin E
Published: June 2006

In order to increase the hydrophilicities, thereby to impart soil resistance and to improve dyeability, poly(ethylene terephatalate) (polyester) fabrics were treated in low‐temperature plasmas. Two alternative modifications were applied. Fabrics were directly treated in acrylic acid plasma in one investigation, while in the other they were first treated in argon plasma and then immersed in an aqueous acrylic acid bath. The plasma conditions (i.e. exposure time and discharge power) were changed to control the extent of plasma surface modification in the first approach, while the acrylic acid content and the incubation time were changed in the second procedure. The wettability, and therefore the dyeability and soil repellency, of polyester fabrics was significantly improved by both methods. The second method resulted in better dyeability and soil repellency in contrast to lower surface wettability.
Synthesis and application of an azo dye containing a β‐sulphatoethylsulphonyl and a dimercaptotriazinyl group: an attempt to achieve 100% fixation to cellulose
Authors: Renfrew A H M , Clarkson M
Published: June 2006

An azo dye containing a β‐sulphatoethylsulphonyl and a dimercaptotriazinyl group has been synthesised. Application to cellulose under exhaust and pad‐batch conditions gave virtually quantitative levels of exhaustion and ‘fixation’. Spectral, chromatographic, solubility and chemical evidence suggest dye immobilisation via a polymerisation mechanism rather than by covalent bond fixation.
The fluorescence of dihydroxyphenylalanine: the effects of protonation‐deprotonation
Authors: Smith Gerald J
Published: June 2006

The fluorescence excitation and emission spectra and quantum yields of 3,4‐dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA), its methyl ester (DOPAM) and the N‐acetylated derivative (DOPANA) in aqueous solution at pH values ranging from 3.0 to 10.0 have been determined and the excitation spectra related to their absorption spectra. The fluorescence quantum yield of the phenolic form of DOPA is 0.09. However, the fluorescence yield is substantially reduced for the conjugate base forms, i.e. deprotonation of the amine group and the phenolic hydroxyl group. The fluorescence spectra are dominated by the phenolic forms of DOPA, DOPAM and DOPANA from pH 3.0 to 10.0 with excitation and emission spectral maxima at 280 and 315 nm respectively. The excitation maxima for all the compounds correspond to the absorption maxima of their phenolic forms. The phenolate anions of DOPA and DOPAM exhibit weak fluorescence with emission maxima at 325 and 330 nm respectively.
Decolorisation treatments of azo dye waste waters including dichlorotriazinyl reactive groups by using advanced oxidation method
Authors: Uygur Ayse , Kök Ece
Published: June 2006

Decolorisation treatments of azo dye waste waters, which include dichlorotriazinyl reactive groups, were investigated by using ultraviolet (UV) radiation and hydrogen peroxide at various exposure times. Decolorisation time decreased when UV radiation power and hydrogen peroxide concentration increased. Colour removal reached 98.0–99.5% by using this method. Some environmental parameters of decolorised waste water, such as biological oxygen demand (BOD), chemical oxygen demand (COD), total organic carbon (TOC), total inorganic carbon (TIC), total carbon (TC), adsorbable organohalides (AOX), sulphate and chloride, were determined. It was concluded that TOC, COD and AOX decreased while BOD increased and sulphate ions remained unchanged. These results suggested that the dye molecules were totally destroyed and some of these decomposition products were removed as carbon dioxide and water to some degree.
Dyeing behaviour of poly(ethylene terephthalate) fibres spun by high‐speed melt spinning
Authors: Kawahara Y , Jeon H J , Kikutani T
Published: June 2006

Poly(ethylene terephthalate) (polyester) fibres were spun using a high‐speed melt spinning method. By changing the spinning conditions, polyester fibres with differences in crystallinity, birefringence and melting point were obtained. The dyeing behaviour of these fibres was investigated using CI Disperse Red 1. The degree of crystallisation of polyester lowered the dyeability. The fibres with lower molecular orientation and larger crystallite size showed better dyeability.
Prediction of the best‐fit regression model to correlate instrumental colour measurement and visual assessment
Authors: Li* Y.S.W. , Yuen C.W.M. , Yeung K.W. , Sin K.M.
Published: June 2006

The results of a study comparing instrumental colour measurement and visual assessment are reported. The study made use of a comprehensive set of visual colour‐difference pairs including 240 dyed samples distributed around 20 colour standards and spread evenly throughout colour space. Regression analysis was then used to attempt to describe the relationship between the visual and instrumental results. This showed that linear and logistical regression gave the two best‐fit models. This work also provided a useful data set for evaluation of colour‐difference equations so that the optimum colour tolerance levels of various colour data sets could be determined.
Dye and fibre discoveries of the twentieth century. Part 1: From the magic of electric light to the nightmare of world war
Authors: Park J. , Shore J.
Published: June 2006

The first paper in this four part series chronicles the discovery of the first man‐made filaments and the search for high fastness synthetic dyes in the period up to the first world war. Industrial developments before 1914 are discussed and the impact of the great war on dye makers and users is reviewed. Finally, post‐war production difficulties are highlighted.
The preparation of cotton knitgoods
Authors: McCaffrey S. , Santokhi G.K.
Published: June 2006

An acidic preparation procedure for cotton was assessed by comparing the performance of fabrics prepared by this method to identical fabrics prepared by caustic scouring and peroxide bleaching. The fabrics were assessed in terms of levelness of dyes, penetration of dyes and the physical properties of the fabric. The performance of all three fabrics were similar. However, the acidic preparation process is shown to be more acceptable from both an economic and an environmental perspective.
Recommended colour‐inconstancy index
Authors: Luo M.R. , Hunt R.W.G. , Rigg B. , Smith K.J.
Published: June 2006

One of the parameters of greatest interest in the design and production of coloured objects is their colour (in)constancy, i.e. their change in colour appearance with change in illuminant. Serious practical problems attend the visual assessment of colour inconstancy. Several instrumentally based models have been proposed but none has proved sufficiently reliable for routine use in the coloration industries. The Colour Measurement Committee (CMC) recommends a recently developed method, named the CMC 1997 colour‐inconstancy index, which is based on a chromatic adaptation transform, CMCCAT97, that outperforms all others and is being increasingly adopted in international standards. This paper summarises the development of CMCCAT97 and the results of its testing, and gives details of the calculations necessary to CMCCAT97 and the new colour‐inconstancy index. Publication sponsored by the Society's Colour Measurement Committee
Dependence of the dyeability of modified cotton on the substituents and the nature of the dye
Authors: El‐Hilw Z.H. , Hebeish A.
Published: June 2006

Cotton cellulose was chemically modified by introducing acrylamide, acrylonitrile and carboxyalkyl moieties in the form of groups or polymers. In carbamylethylated, cyanoethylated and carboxymethylated cotton, these moieties are in monomeric groups, whereas, in graft copolymers of cotton cellulose with acrylamide, acrylonitrile or acrylic acid, the moieties are in polymeric forms. These substrates were dyed independently using direct, acid, basic or reactive dyes. Results showed that at roughly equal nitrogen content, polyacrylamide–cotton graft copolymer exhibited a much higher colour strength than carbamylethylated cotton when the two substrates were dyed using basic dye. The opposite is the case for direct and reactive dyes. The acid dye produced comparable colour strengths. Similar trends were observed when the other samples were dyed with these four dyes. The results were explained in terms of microstructural changes in the physical and chemical structure of cotton caused by the etherification and grafting reactions.
The influence of metal ions on the aggregation and hydrophobicity of dyes in solutions
Authors: Yeung K.W. , Shang S.M.
Published: June 2006

The effect of the addition of metal ions to dye solutions in promoting dye aggregation and in changing dye association in solution has been studied. Experimental findings indicate that the promoting effects of calcium and magnesium ions are greater than that of sodium ions. It is expected that any change in dye hydrophobicity would have a direct influence on the extent of dye aggregation. Under acid conditions, a higher concentration of metal ions would result in an increase in dye aggregation with a reduction in dye hydrophobicity. On the other hand, while the dye aggregation is increased under alkaline conditions under the influence of metal ions, hydrophobicity was shown to increase. These changes in dye hydrophobicity could be used to explain the dyeing behaviour of reactive dyes in the dyeing of silk.
Aftertreatment of acid dyes on conventional nylon 6.6 with a commercial syntan/cation system. Part 3: Improvements to the Fixogene AC system
Authors: Blackburn R S , Burkinshaw S M
Published: June 2006

Dyeings (1% owf) were produced on conventional nylon 6.6 fabric using two commercial nonmetallised acid dyes. The fastness of the dyeings to the ISO 105:CO6/C2 wash test over five repetitions was determined. Aftertreatment of the dyeings using a commercial syntan alone improved the wash fastness after five washes, with respect to the non‐aftertreated sample, whereas the sequential application of a cationic compound to the syntanned dyeings imparted a further improvement in wash fastness. Yet further improvements to the system could be achieved by varying the cationic agent, the amount of cationic agent applied and the pH of the application system.
Comparison of wool bleaching with hydrogen peroxide in alkaline and acidic media
Authors: Gacen Joaquín , Cayuela Diana
Published: June 2006

A merino wool top was bleached in both alkaline and acidic media, varying the hydrogen peroxide concentration in the bleaching bath. For the same peroxide concentration, bleaching in an alkaline medium leads to a whiter and more chemically attacked wool than bleaching in an acidic medium. For the same chemical attack, wool bleached in an alkaline medium is whiter than for bleaching in an acidic medium.
Fading of azo dyes with sodium sulphite
Authors: Seguchi K , Iwata M , Machida T , Tanaka S
Published: June 2006

The fading behaviour of a variety of naphthol azo dyes with an excess of sodium sulphite was investigated spectrophotometrically at 30°C in the pH range from 3 to 10. The fading occurred most efficiently under neutral conditions. The azo dyes employed were grouped distinctly into the following three types on basis of the observed spectroscopic characteristics: addition type (A‐type), in which the dyes had relatively faster rates had isosbestic points at near 440 nm; reduction type (R‐type), in which the dyes had slower fading rates and no clear isosbestic point; and no reaction type (N‐type), in which the dyes showed no fading under the experimental conditions. The results suggested that the fading of the azo dyes with sodium sulphite occurred through a Michael addition of a sulphite ion to a conjugate active enone moiety in the hydrazone tautomer (A‐type), or to a conjugate iminone moiety in the same tautomer (R‐type).
Use of siloxanes to increase dye fastness on leather†
Authors: Hudson Andrew
Published: June 2006

Amino‐functionalised siloxanes have been used to increase the number of active sites in leather (and especially suede) available for dye fixation. The use of a second hydrophobic siloxane in conjunction with the amino‐functionalised siloxane, further increases the fastness results. The best results are found for the use of reactive dyes on siloxane pre‐treated leather samples, where washfastness and perspiration fastness results of 4–5 or 5 for all fibres on a multifibre staining material for a commercially acceptable black are obtained. Wet and dry crock fastness of 3 is reached.
Direct dyeing of cotton fabrics pre‐treated with cationising agents
Authors: Youssef Y A
Published: June 2006

Pre‐treatment of cotton fabrics with mono‐ and bis‐reactive cationic agents produces a fibre that may be dyed with direct dyes under neutral conditions in the absence of salt. Fairly high degrees of exhaustion and fixation and improved wet fastness were achieved for all cases of cationised cotton fabrics compared to untreated samples. The results also indicate that cotton pre‐treated with the bisreactive cationic agent shows higher degrees of dye exhaustion and fixation relative to cotton pretreated with the mono‐reactive agent.
A chemometric approach to understanding the bioelimination of anionic, water‐soluble dyes by a biomass ‐ Part 4: Reactive dyes**
Authors: Churchley J H , Greaves A J , Hutchings M G , Phillips D A S , Taylor J A
Published: June 2006

The bioelimination of a series of hydrolysed reactive dyes of known chemical structure has been determined using a new, rapid and robust laboratory method and a chemometric analysis conducted on the bioelimination results. The level of bioelimination varies from 0% up to only 25% and the chemometric analysis indicates that if either the number of aromatic rings increases or the number of 2‐hydroxyethylsulphone groups decreases, then the bioelimination increases. To maximise the bioelimination of reactive dyes, large, planar triazine‐based dyes should be used.
A new approach to the assessment of standard depth
Authors: Hawkyard C J , Kelly M
Published: June 2006

Standard depth is a term used to describe a subjectively defined property of colour, yet it is of great importance both in fastness testing and standardisation of dyes. In this paper, analysis of a large number of databases from the four major European dye manufacturers resulted in a new method of determining 1/1 standard depth for each angle round the hue circle. The definition holds whether the colour is dull or bright in shade. After allowance is made for the colour of the substrate the lightness at the point of maximum chroma (L* at C*max) has been found to be remarkably constant for a specified hue. An equation relating L* at C*max to hue angle round the hue circle has been obtained and is suggested as the basis of a method of defining 1/1 standard depth.
Dyeing properties of silk produced by silkworms reared on artificial and mulberry leaf diets
Authors: Sasaki* Hiroaki , Donkai Nobuo , Ito Hiraku , Imamura Katustoshi , Morikawa Hideaki
Published: June 2006

The dyeing properties were investigated for silk proteins produced by silkworms reared entirely on an artificial diet (A) and a mulberry leaf diet (M). The dyeing experiments were carried out with CI acid orange 7 at pH 3.9 and 60°C. The sericin contents of the A and the M raw silk samples were determined to be 26.0% and 23.7%, respectively. The equilibrium dye uptake and the dyeing rate of the A silk fibroin were almost the same as those of the M silk fibroin. The equilibrium dye uptake on each silk sericin was 3–4 times higher than that of the silk fibroin. On the other hand, the equilibrium dye uptake of the A silk sericin was higher than that of the M silk sericin, but the dyeing rate of the former was slower than that of the latter.
Removal of reactive dyes from wastewater using Fe(III) coagulant
Authors: Papić S , Koprivanac N , Božić A Lončarić
Published: June 2006

The coagulation‐flocculation process was employed for the treatment of reactive dye wastewaters, with ferric chloride hexahydrate employed as the coagulant. The process was found to be very effective with a more than 99.5% colour removal. Typical representatives of monochlorotriazine reactive dyes, with azo and anthraquinone chromophores, were CI Reactive Red 45 and CI Reactive Green 8, which were chosen as the model dyes. In order to determine the optimum pH range and coagulant concentration, a series of jar tests was done. Further experiments were conducted using a square flocculation tank with turbine impeller applying rapid and slow mix operations. The optimisation of initial rapid mixing, which has an important role in the overall coagulation process efficiency, was carried out. The optimum combination of velocity gradient and time of rapid mix was suggested for reactive dye wastewater treatment. Sedimentation curves for both model dyes were also obtained.
Biological treatment of effluent containing textile dyes
Authors: Gonçalves* I M C , Gomes A , Brás R , Ferra M I A , Amorim M T P , Porter R S
Published: June 2006

Colour removal of textile dyes from effluent was evaluated using a laboratory ‘upflow anaerobic sludge blanket’ reactor. Several commercial dyes were selected to study the effect of dye structure on colour removal. The anaerobic reactor was fed with glucose, an easily biodegradable organic matter and selected individual dyes. Results show that some of the dyes are readily reduced under anaerobic conditions even at a high concentration of 700 mg/l. The average removal efficiency for acid dyes using this method was between 80 and 90% and that observed for the direct dye used was 81%. Laboratory experiments using the anaerobic reactor with disperse dyes, such as an anthraquinonebased dye, were unsuccessful even at low concentrations of 35 mg/l. Additional experiments were conducted to evaluate the toxicity of a selected disperse dye to an anaerobic environment. Results indicate that the purified dye is more toxic to the biomass than the commercial one.
Salt‐free dyeing of cotton cellulose with a model cationic reactive dye
Authors: Srikulkit Kawee , Santifuengkul Pornchai
Published: June 2006

A model cationic reactive dye based on an anthraquinone chromophore was prepared. The synthesis of this dye was achieved by the modification of the a free amino group of an anthraquinone‐based dye, reacting first with cyanuric chloride and then with N‐(2‐aminoethyl)pyridinium chloride. TLC analysis was employed to follow the chemical reactions. The application of the prepared dye to cotton fabric was carried out using the exhaustion method without the addition of electrolytes. The results showed that, despite no electrolytes being present in the dye bath, a high percentage of dye exhaustion could be obtained. The high percentage of dye exhaustion was attributed to the attractive force between positive charges on the dye molecule and the negatively charged fibre surface. A high degree of dye fixation with excellent wash fastness was also achievable. Advantageously, it was found that this cationic reactive dye showed promising fastness to light when compared with that of analogous conventional basic dye on cotton. It is believed that the pyridinium cationic moiety, which attached separately to the chromophore via aliphatic spacer groups, was later eliminated during the washing‐off process, hence causing an insignificant effect on the photofading of the dyed fabric.
Decolorisation of azo dyes with hydrogen peroxide catalysed by manganese protoporphyrins
Authors: Tokuda J , Oura R , Iwasaki T , Takeuchi Y , Kashiwada A , Nango M
Published: June 2006

Manganese protoporphyrin or mesoporphyrin derivatives catalysed the decolorisation of azo dyes by hydrogen peroxide under mild conditions, pH 8.0 and 25°C. The decolorisation rate was increased by the presence of manganese protoporphyrin or mesoporphyrin derivatives and was dependent upon the structures of the porphyrins and of the azo dyes. The rate was found to depend upon the concentration of ligands. Kinetic studies of the decolorisation rate by hydrogen peroxide catalysed by a poly(ethylene glycol)‐linked manganese mesoporphyrin derivative showed how the structures of the porphyrin and the azo dye affect the rate.
Ink‐jet printing of textiles under the microscope
Authors: Dawson T L
Published: June 2006

Jet printing of textiles with equipment based on the charged drop, piezo and bubblejet technologies, which were originally developed for paper reprographics, is now fairly common, particularly for making sample prints in a rapid response environment. However, compared with conventional screen printing, these systems impose some limitations in the number and gamut of shades that can be produced and in fabric preparation, productivity and cost. The underlying principles of the formation of the coloured pixels which make up the printed design using a jet printer have been studied both at the microscopic level and colorimetrically. A wider appreciation of the reasons for the present limitations of jet printing systems for textiles should help overcome misunderstandings between designers, specifiers and their customers alike.
Studies on residual aryl amine content on discharge printed silk fabrics
Authors: Joseph M A , Somashekar T H
Published: June 2006

Degummed and bleached tabby silk fabric was dyed with easily dischargeable azo dyes and discharge printed with zinc sulphoxylate‐formaldehyde. The aryl amines released during the discharge printing were quantitatively recovered and identified by using gas chromatography mass spectrometry. Quantitative analysis by HPLC of the regenerated aryl amines shows that the initial soaking and one rinsing removes more than 43% of the amines in the case of benzidine‐based azo dyes. The quantity of the residual amine (benzidine) retained by the benzidine‐based dyes even after fourth rinsing was in the range of 300–780 mg/kg. This compared with acid dye (CI Acid Red 114) based on o‐toluidine, released 70% of the regenerated amine in the first rinsing itself and 84% after the fourth rinsing.
A study on the advanced oxidation of a cotton fabric by ozone
Authors: Prabaharan M , Nayar Ramesh Chandran , Kumar N Selva , Rao J Venkata
Published: June 2006

So‐called sdvanced oxidation involves the generation of free radical hydroxy species. Ozone, a highly unstable compound, liberates such radicals, which can be used for bleaching. In this work grey cotton fabric was bleached with an ozone/oxygen gas mixture, and the effects of ozone concentration and treatment time on the properties of the bleached fabric were studied. The properties evaluated were whiteness index, strength, elongation, extent of impurities (size and wax) removed, degree of chemical modification (carboxyl and aldehyde groups) and reactive dye take‐up. These properties were compared to those from conventionally bleached materials (acid desize‐scour‐peroxide/calcium hypochlorite bleach). The results show that an acceptable degree of whiteness (ready for dyeing) can be obtained by ozone bleaching in a very short time. This process is environmentally acceptable because it is does not use harmful chemicals, it requires a very low quantity of water, and bleaching is achieved in a very short time at room temperature.
The analysis of indigoid dyes as leuco forms by NMR spectroscopy*
Authors: Voss G
Published: June 2006

1H and 13C NMR spectra of halogen‐ and alkoxy‐substituted indigoid dyes (indigotins), and of some unknown deuterated indigotins as leuco forms (i.e., reduced forms or ‘vats’), in deuterium oxide are recorded and discussed. NMR spectroscopy is a useful technique for the identification and characterisation of this traditional class of vat dyes.
Chrome dyeing of cashmere with SCA‐Cr as the mordant
Authors: Xing J , Pailthorpe M T
Published: June 2006

The recently developed mordant SCA‐Cr has been employed in mill production for the afterchrome dyeing of cashmere for more than two years, and about 80 tonnes of the fibre has been dyed in this way. The mill results confirmed the value of the Cr(III)‐containing mordant and the new technique has replaced the conventional chrome dyeing method, in which dichromate was employed as the mordant, in three biggest cashmere processing companies in China. The concentration of Cr(VI) in the residual dyebath was greatly decreased (to less than 0.01 mg/l). Because of the reduced oxidation damage to the cashmere during mordanting, the spinning properties, as well as other properties, of the loose cashmere stock were significantly improved and the quality of the final products was greatly enhanced.
Vat dye sensitised fibre damage and dye fading by catalytic and activated peroxide bleaching
Authors: Bachmann F , Dannacher J J , Freiermuth B , Studer M , Kelemen J
Published: June 2006

At equal levels of performance, activated (TAED) and catalytic (Mn‐TMTACN) laundry bleaching can differ considerably in terms of the concomitant damage to fibres and dyes. To quantify this damage, differently dyed cotton fabrics, and a representative set of eight vat dyes and CI Reactive Brown 7 were used. It is shown that dye fading and fibre degradation are dye‐specific and are both highly coupled phenomena. The interpretation of the damage data is based on dye chemistry, reflectance spectroscopy (UV/VIS and NIR) and EPR measurements. Whereas compelling evidence for a genuine catalytic cycle with the quoted manganese complex is lacking, a possible catalytic role of the dyes is proposed. The dramatic green shift resulting from the catalytic bleaching of Cl Vat Blue 4 is explained in detail. The corresponding oxidation is reversible and possibly useful as a fibre damage indicator.
Dry action of Trichoderma reesei cellulases on cotton fabrics
Authors: Andreaus Jürgen , Ramos Luiz Pereira , Cavaco‐Paulo Artur
Published: June 2006

Following treatment with Trichoderma reesei cellulases, the mechanical properties of cotton fabrics were measured to assess the effect of adsorbed enzymes. The ability of adsorbed cellulases to act as anchors for further wet finishing processes was studied. Dried fabric samples, after 105 days under usual storage conditions, showed neither significant strength loss, nor any changes in the degree of polymerisation. After five months of storage, the enzymes were still found to be active. The adsorption of T reesei cellulases produced an increase in staining levels after dyeing with an acid dye, but washing fastness was poor. Washing with soap under alkaline conditions removed proteins almost completely. Adsorption of T reesei cellulases is reversible and desorption increases from pH 5 to pH 10. Because of the protein desorption under usual alkaline washing conditions, no practical application of adsorbed cellulases for further finishing processes is suggested and more work is required.
Aggregation and photofading behaviour of unsymmetrical squarylium dyes containing a quinolylidene moiety
Authors: Kim Sung‐Hoon , Hwang Seok‐Hwan , Kim Nok‐Kyung , Kim Jae‐Woo , Yoon Cheol‐Min , Keum Sam‐Rok
Published: June 2006

Representatives of a new class of unsymmetrical squarylium dyes containing a quinolylidene moiety have been synthesised and characterised. These dyes absorbed at a longer wavelength (11–50 nm) than the corresponding symmetrical squarylium dyes. The influence of the quinolylidene moiety on the absorption of these dyes was studied and compared with that calculated by the PPP‐MO method. The photostability properties of the dyes were investigated in chloroform with a high‐pressure mercury lamp. The aggregation of the unsymmetrical squarylium dyes were also studied in different DMSO/water solutions, including solutions with γ‐cyclodextrin.
Dyeing machine control using in‐line colour measurement. Part 3: Online dyeing quality control
Authors: Gilchrist Alison , Nobbs James H
Published: June 2006

A system is described that controls the dyeing process so as to produce a package within a final unlevelness tolerance in the minimum time. This is achieved by incorporating into the control algorithm a mathematical model capable of predicting the unlevelness in a dyed package from the current state of the system. The use of such a general strategy allows production of dyeings of acceptable quality in minimum time and requires little intervention from the machine operator.
Dyeing behaviour of relaxed and retractile components in high‐bulk yarns
Authors: Maillo Josefina , Puente Publio , Gacén Joaquín , Batriu Mireia
Published: June 2006

The evolution of dye absorption and fine structure variations due to heat treatment in high‐bulk yarns was studied. Two acrylic fibres of different commercial origin were employed. Using these, the following yarns were spun: 100% relaxed (N), 100% retractile (R), 55:45 N/R and 45:55 N/R. The evolution of fibre microstructure induced by the dyeing process was studied through the differential solubility technique in mixtures of dimethylformamide and water.
A kinetic study on the dissolution of disperse dyes in the presence of intensifying additives
Authors: Veleva S , Georgieva A , Pishev D
Published: June 2006

The kinetics controlling the water solubility of a disperse dye in the presence of the intensifiers polyethyleneglycol, caprolactam and combination of both were investigated. An exponential rate equation was found to describe the dissolution process. It was established that the additives increase the rate of dissolution.
Easy‐care finishing of silk fabrics with a novel multifunctional epoxide. Part 2
Authors: Cheng Hu , Yejuan Jin , Kai Sun
Published: June 2006

The effects of finishing silk fabrics with the multifunctional epoxide EPTA have been studied. The content of basic amino acids and tyrosine in silk fibroin decreased remarkably. Wetting properties of the EPTA‐finished silk fabrics such as water‐fabric contact angle and water retention capacity changed slightly, while dyeing behaviours showed a marked difference. The rate of hydrolysis of the EPTA‐finished fibroin in alkaline solutions was slower than that of the unfinished control samples.
The colour fastness of optionally aftertreated direct dyes on cotton during washing in an activated oxygen bleach‐containing detergent
Authors: Phillips Duncan , Taylor John , Lakhanpal Rajesh , Hall Robin , Bailey John , Bevan Geoff , Lloyd John , Hoffmeister Juergen , McKelvey Derek
Published: June 2006

This study uses previously proposed spectrophotometric pass/fail criteria for the assessment of oxidative‐bleach fading of cellulosic dyes on cotton during repeated washing. A high level of correlation (88%) has been obtained between the fading exhibited by optionally aftertreated direct dyes in the UK‐TO test and that after 20 domestic machine washes in the presence of a detergent containing an oxidative‐bleach system. The correlation, and ultimate utility of the test method, is further improved when preceded by an ISO 105 C06/C2S wash fastness test to screen out dyes having a low intrinsic fastness to washing.
Colour variation in the dyeing of denim yarn with indigo
Authors: Xin J H , Chong C L , Tu T
Published: June 2006

In this paper, various parameters of warp yarn dyeing using indigo dyes are investigated. These parameters include dye concentration, number of dips in the dyeing process, dyebath pH, amount of reducing agent, immersion time, oxidation (skying) temperature, effects of a wetting agent and soaping temperature. This study revealed that these parameters have varying degrees of influence on the resultant colour of the samples dyed. The degrees of variation in colour were expressed using the CIE L* a* b* system as well as the shade depth (Integ).
Comparison of the effects of gamma and ultraviolet radiation on wool keratin
Authors: Millington Keith R
Published: June 2006

The effects of γ‐radiation (60Co) on some chemical and physical properties of wool keratin are compared and contrasted with the effects of ultraviolet radiation in the UVC (200–280 nm) region. The effect of UVC doses up to 25 J/cm2 (equivalent to 20 min exposure to a bank of high intensity lowpressure mercury arcs) on fabric strength is small (≤5%), whereas γ‐irradiated wool experiences strength reductions of ≥15% at doses over 100 kGy. Colour changes following UVC and γ‐irradiation are quite different: UVC wool is initially green changing to yellow under ambient conditions, γ‐treated wool becomes pink‐red at doses 25–250 kGy, and yellow at higher doses. The chromophores produced by UVC are easily removed by oxidative bleaching with hydrogen peroxide, whereas γ‐treated wool remains yellow even at relatively low doses (25–50 kGy). This has implications for the use of γ‐radiation as a means of sterilising wool for compliance with quarantine regulations. The effects of the two forms of radiation on the natural fluorescence of wool, permanent setting, printing properties and the epicuticle layer are also described.
Structure—wet fastness relationships of some blue disperse dyes for polyester
Authors: Choi Jae‐Hong , Hong Sung‐Hee , Lee Eui‐Jae , Towns Andrew D
Published: June 2006

A range of monoazo blue disperse dyes has been synthesised by coupling benzenoid and heterocyclic diazo components to aniline derivatives containing ester functions. The colour properties and wet fastness of the dyes on polyester at 1/1 standard depth have been examined and rationalised in terms of dye structure. Styryl dyes have also been prepared in order to compare their wet fastness properties to those of the azo dyes.
A chemometric approach to understanding the bioelimination of anionic, water‐soluble dyes by a biomass—Part 3: Direct dyes**
Authors: Churchley J H , Greaves A J , Hutchings M G , Phillips D A S , Taylor J A
Published: June 2006

Using a new, rapid and robust laboratory method for assessing the bioelimination of water‐soluble dyes, the level of bioelimination of a series of direct dyes has been determined and a chemometric analysis has been conducted on the bioelimination results to correlate bioelimination with chemical structure. Bioelimination varies from 0 to 95% and correlates, for the majority of the direct dyes studied, with their size/charge ratio. The bioelimination of direct dyes is enhanced by large size/charge ratios, the presence of aromatic amino functions and extended azo (naphthalene) chromophores.
Crosslinking a hydroxyethylsulphonyl dye on cotton to achieve covalent fixation in a long‐liquor process
Authors: Lewis D M , Yao J
Published: June 2006

A heterobifunctional [dichlorotriazine and vinylsulphone (DCT‐VS)] reactive crosslinker, 2,4‐dichloro‐6‐{ρ‐[(2′‐sulphatoethyl)sulphonyl]phenylamino}‐1,3,5‐triazine (DC‐SES) was synthesised and coapplied with nicotinic acid to covalently fix hydrolysed Cl Reactive Black 5 (HBB) (hydroxyethylsulphonyl dye) to cotton in a long‐liquor process. It is suggested that a very active quaternised nicotinic acid ammonium salt of DC‐SES was generated in situ, which reacts readily with HBB and cellulose leading to dye fixation. Further dye fixation can be obtained by the addition of alkali at 60 °C; the final fixation value from this system is very good. Application of this system as an aftertreatment in the conventional Cl Reactive Black 5 dyeing bath, results in 10–15% higher exhaustion and fixation values compared to the usual dyeing procedure.
Acetate dyes revisited: high fastness dyeing of cellulose diacetate and polyester—polyurethane
Authors: Choi Jae‐Hong , Towns Andrew D
Published: June 2006

Colorants have been formulated from medium to high energy disperse dyes in an attempt to create dyestuffs for diacetate which not only meet existing toxicological regulations, but also build‐up well and confer good wet fastness. Comparison of the performance of the formulations with that of conventional low energy disperse dyes, considered allergenic by Oeko‐tex Standard 100, showed the former to have acceptable dyeability and superior fastness on 100% diacetate and an acetate‐nylon mix. Some of the formulations also proved suitable for low temperature dyeing of a polyester‐elastane blend, all furnishing dyeings with better wash fastness than that generally given by conventional polyester colorants.
Colour fastness of optionally aftertreated acid levelling and milling dyes on nylon 6.6 during washing in an activated oxygen‐bleach containing detergent. Part 1: Fading observed in the UK‐TO test and after repeated domestic laundering†
Authors: Phillips Duncan , Taylor John , Lakhanpal Rajesh , Scotney John , Bevan Geoff
Published: June 2006

Previous studies examining the fading exhibited by different classes of cellulosic dyes on cotton, during washing in an oxidative‐bleach containing detergent, have been extended to acid levelling and the higher wet fast acid half‐milling dyes and acid milling dyes on nylon 6.6. It has been shown that acid levelling dyes exhibit a much higher level of fading, both in the single cycle, stressed UK‐TO test and after repeated domestic laundering, than acid milling dyes. The observed fading in each case was due to wash‐down/desorption of dye rather than an oxidative‐bleaching effect.
Chemical finishing of silk fabric
Authors: Cai Zaisheng , Jiang Guochuan , Yang Shaojun
Published: June 2006

The optimum technique of finishing silk fabric with EPSIA (a silicone‐containing epoxy crosslinking agent) has been investigated through single factor experiments and orthogonal design. Treatment parameters such as finishing agent concentration, catalyst concentration, steaming temperature and time have been investigated. Changes of physical properties, durability to laundering and dyeing properties of the finished silk are also discussed.
Effect of temperature and bath composition on the dyeing of cotton with catalase‐treated bleaching effluent
Authors: Tzanov Tzanko , Costa Silgia , Guebitz Georg M , Cavaco‐Paulo Artur
Published: June 2006

Conventional rinsing to remove residual hydrogen peroxide after the bleaching of cotton fabric can be replaced by enzymatic cleaning using catalases. Our previous study showed that dyeing in such catalase‐treated bleaching baths results in a shade change on the dyed fabrics. The aim of this present study was to investigate the reasons for the unacceptable colour differences of the dyed fabrics. Experiments were performed to study the possible temperature‐dependent dye interactions in the standard dyebath, and in the dyebath prepared with bleaching effluent. Fluorescence emission spectra were used to detect changes in the structure of the catalase related to the thermal unfolding and denaturing of the protein. It was found that the colour difference on the dyed textiles could be attributed to the temperature‐dependent dye‐enzyme interaction and precipitation, as well as to the complexity of the bleaching bath composition.
Acid‐dyeable acrylic fibres copolymerised with amino alkyl methacrylates for differential cross‐dyeing
Authors: Sawa Yuko , Hoten Masanobu
Published: June 2006

The equilibrium adsorption of acid dyes on acrylic fibres copolymerised with dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate has been investigated. A typical characteristic of this type of fibre is its excellent stable dyeability over a wide pH range. This is due to the strong basicity of alkylamino groups in the copolymerised component, which makes it possible to dye the fibre thoroughly even in a weakly acidic dyebath using a normal dyeing processes of acrylic fibre with cationic dye. Consequently it is useful for differential cross‐dyeing in a single dyebath.