bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Sensitivity of the resting-state haemodynamic response function estimation to autonomic nervous system fluctuations
Authors: Wu Guo-Rong , Marinazzo Daniele
Published: April 2016

The haemodynamic response function (HRF) is a key component of the blood oxygen level-dependent (BOLD) signal, providing the mapping between neural activity and the signal measured with functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI). Most of the time the HRF is associated with task-based fMRI protocols, in which its onset is explicitly included in the design matrix. On the other hand, the HRF also mediates the relationship between spontaneous neural activity and the BOLD signal in resting-state protocols, in which no explicit stimulus is taken into account. It has been shown that resting-state brain dynamics can be characterized by looking at sparse BOLD ‘events’, which can be retrieved by point process analysis. These events can be then used to retrieve the HRF at rest. Crucially, cardiac activity can also induce changes in the BOLD signal, thus affecting both the number of these events and the estimation of the haemodynamic response. In this study, we compare the resting-state haemodynamic response retrieved by means of a point process analysis, taking the cardiac fluctuations into account. We find that the resting-state HRF estimation is significantly modulated in the brainstem and surrounding cortical areas. From the analysis of two high-quality datasets with different temporal and spatial resolution, and through the investigation of intersubject correlation, we suggest that spontaneous point process response durations are associated with the mean interbeat interval and low-frequency power of heart rate variability in the brainstem.
Uncovering brain–heart information through advanced signal and image processing
Authors: Valenza Gaetano , Toschi Nicola , Barbieri Riccardo
Published: April 2016

Through their dynamical interplay, the brain and the heart ensure fundamental homeostasis and mediate a number of physiological functions as well as their disease-related aberrations. Although a vast number of ad hoc analytical and computational tools have been recently applied to the non-invasive characterization of brain and heart dynamic functioning, little attention has been devoted to combining information to unveil the interactions between these two physiological systems. This theme issue collects contributions from leading experts dealing with the development of advanced analytical and computational tools in the field of biomedical signal and image processing. It includes perspectives on recent advances in 7 T magnetic resonance imaging as well as electroencephalogram, electrocardiogram and cerebrovascular flow processing, with the specific aim of elucidating methods to uncover novel biological and physiological correlates of brain–heart physiology and physiopathology.
Detecting DNA Methylation using the Oxford Nanopore Technologies MinION sequencer
Authors: Simpson Jared T , Workman Rachael , Zuzarte P. C. , David Matei , Dursi L. J. , Timp Winston
Published: April 2016

Nanopore sequencing instruments measure the change in electric current caused by DNA transiting through the pore. In experimental and prototype nanopore sequencing devices it has been shown that the electrolytic current signals are sensitive to base modifications, such as 5-methylcytosine. Here we quantify the strength of this effect for the Oxford Nanopore Technologies MinION sequencer. Using synthetically methylated DNA we are able to train a hidden Markov model to distinguish 5-methylcytosine from unmethylated cytosine in DNA. We demonstrate by sequencing natural human DNA, without any special library preparation, that global patterns of methylation can be detected from low-coverage sequencing and that the methylation status of CpG islands can be reliably predicted from single MinION reads. Our trained model and prediction software is open source and freely available to the community under the MIT license.
Crystal structure ofL-leucyl-L-isoleucine 2,2,2-trifluoroethanol monosolvate
Authors: Görbitz Carl Henrik
Published: April 2016

Hydrophobic dipeptides with either L-Leu or L-Phe constitute a rather heterogeneous group of crystal structures. Some form materials with large water-filled channels, but there is also a pronounced tendency to incorporate organic solvent molecules, which then act as acceptors for one of the three H atoms of the charged N-terminal amino group. L-Leu-L-Ile has uniquely been obtained as two distinct hydrates, but has so far failed to co-crystallize with a simple alcohol. The present structure of C12H24N2O3·CF3CH2OH, which crystallizes with two dipeptide and two solvent molecules in the asymmetric unit, demonstrates that when 2,2,2-trifluoroethanol is used as a solvent, its high capacity as a hydrogen-bond donor leads to formation of an alcohol solvate.
cis-Diammine[3-(3-chloro-7-methoxy-9,10-dihydroacridin-9-ylideneamino)propan-1-amine-κ2N,N′]platinum(II) dinitrate
Authors: Cheun Young , Lee Seongmin
Published: April 2016

The title complex salt, [Pt(C16H17N3)(NH3)2](NO3)2, is of interest with respect to anticancer activity. The secondary amine of 9-aminoacridine coordinates with the platinum(II) atom, leading to imine–platinum complex cation formation. The crystal structure displays extensive N—H...O and N—H...N hydrogen bonding and weak C—H...Cl and C—H...O hydrogen bonding.
Introduction to the special issue
Authors: Shneor Rotem , Jenssen Jan Inge , Vissak Tiia
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to set the papers included in the special issue into their unique contextual stage of entrepreneurial eco-systems in Nordic and Baltic countries.

Design/methodology/approach

– The editorial first presents the current status of entrepreneurship in the Nordic and Baltic regions. It then provides an overview of the papers included in this special issue, while highlighting their contributions. Finally, it concludes with suggestions for further research, while pointing out promising areas for future investigations.

Findings

– The papers included in this special issue help advance the understanding of important aspects of entrepreneurship in general, and within the context of Nordic and Baltic countries in particular. The first two papers focus on antecedents of entrepreneurial behaviour, namely – education and passion, while the last two papers address entrepreneurial behaviour and its outcome in terms of both growth aspiration and actual growth. Finally, the editorial identifies three important themes for future research, namely – the roles of Web 2.0 and online communities, crowdfunding and alternative finance, as well as current immigration trends on entrepreneurship development and dynamics in Nordic and Baltic Europe.

Originality/value

– This editorial and special issue are in tune with current calls for better understanding of entrepreneurship-related phenomena within their social context, and some of the linkages between social settings and manifestations of entrepreneurship. And while most papers concentrate on themes that may be associated with mainstream entrepreneurship research, each introduces new angles and/or conceptual combinations surrounding such themes and variables, which are unique and inspirational.
Growth aspirations among women entrepreneurs in high growth firms
Authors: Bulanova Oxana , Isaksen Espen John , Kolvereid Lars
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to investigate the relationship between perceived desirability (attitude towards growth) and feasibility (entrepreneurial self-efficacy) of business growth and women entrepreneurs’ continued business growth aspirations. Hypotheses are derived guided by the Entrepreneurial Event Model (EEM). The authors also address the following research question: what reasons do women entrepreneurs state for wanting or not wanting continued business growth?

Design/methodology/approach

– The sample consists of 93 of the largest independent businesses in Norway started by women entrepreneurs in 2004, 2005 or 2006 (response rate 57.5 per cent). The hypotheses are tested using logistic regression. The authors carry out a post hoc analysis of open-ended questions, containing a qualitative analysis of the reasons for not wanting or wanting the business to grow.

Findings

– The results support the hypotheses. Controlling for industry, location and the women entrepreneurs’ age, perceived desirability and feasibility of business growth predict growth aspirations. Thus, the findings suggests that the EEM is an appropriate and useful model. Reasons are grouped in reasons relating to considerations for the entrepreneur, the business and the environment. The most common reason for not wanting the business to grow relates to business considerations, including that growth would jeopardize the quality of services offered by the business. Important reasons for wanting the business to grow include fun and excitement.

Research limitations/implications

– Policy makers and educators can encourage business growth by efforts aiming to increase the desirability and feasibility of growth. Practitioners as well as scholars should be aware of the inducements and costs associated with business growth. The study contributes to the entrepreneurship literature by exploring and identifying areas that both encourage and hinder further business growth among high-growth women entrepreneurs.

Originality/value

– Research on women-owned businesses is still scarce, and few if any previous studies have surveyed growth aspiration in new high-growth women-owned businesses. The combination of quantitative and qualitative techniques is also a novel contribution of this survey.
Toward understanding principals’ hiring practices
Authors: Engel Mimi , Curran F. Chris
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to explore variation across principals in terms of the number and types of strategies they engage in to find teachers to fill the vacancies in their schools. The practices that the authors consider to be strategic are aligned with the district’s goals and objectives for teacher recruitment.

Design/methodology/approach

– The authors selected 31 schools from the Chicago Public Schools system through a combination of stratified random sampling and purposive sampling. Through analysis of qualitative interviews with the 31 principals of these schools, the authors explore a range of principals’ hiring strategies and provide brief case examples to illuminate differences in hiring practices across principals.

Findings

– The authors find that the majority of principals in the sample engage in relatively few of the practices considered strategic. Interestingly, sample principals who engaged in seven or more strategic practices were more likely to work in high schools than in elementary schools.

Research limitations/implications

– While the range of strategic hiring practices the authors explore provides a starting point for analyzing principals’ hiring practices, it is important to recognize that the list of strategies the authors consider is not exhaustive. For instance, the context of the study did not allow the authors to analyze practices such as the consideration of teacher value-added scores.

Practical implications

– This study should be replicated in other contexts in order to see whether and how principals’ hiring practices vary by country, geographic location, urbanicity, and other factors.

Originality/value

– This study is the first, to the authors’ knowledge, to detail principals’ hiring practices in relation to their district’s teacher recruitment plan with the aim of adding to the knowledge base on teacher hiring.
Generational change in Australian school leadership
Authors: Lambert Phil , Marks Warren , Elliott Virginia , Johnston-Anderson Natalie
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to report on a study examining the existence and perceived influence of “generational collide” for teachers and leaders across three generations – Baby Boomers, Generation X (Gen X) and Generation Y (Gen Y). The study sought to further determine if a teacher’s generation, gender, school level or position influenced their beliefs about generational leadership change.

Design/methodology/approach

– This study employed a cross-sectional survey using an explanatory sequential mixed methods design. A random sample of teachers and leaders from schools in the Sydney metropolitan area participated in a questionnaire (n=244) and a purposive sample of eight participants from each of the three generational groups (n=24) participated in a follow up interview.

Findings

– The data revealed that teachers and leaders across all three generations agreed that “generational collide” is real and is currently happening in some schools. Each generation has their own perceptions about the “collide” and often do not recognise that this may differ for other generations. In relation to the key variables, this study demonstrated that primary teachers were significantly more likely to believe that generational leadership change was happening than secondary teachers and that Baby Boomers were significantly more likely to view their staying on past retirement age as positive compared to both Gen X and Gen Y.

Practical implications

– The findings from this study have practical implications for system leaders charged with the responsibility of providing the supply of quality leadership for schools through effective succession planning programmes and policies.

Social implications

– The findings from this study have social implications for principals’ (and deputy principals’) professional associations who have the responsibility for the personal, professional and career welfare of principals and aspiring principals.

Originality/value

– This paper adds to the growing body of evidence around generational collide in schools by providing an Australian perspective on the phenomenon. Moreover, this paper raises important concerns for school leaders and administrators involved in leadership development initiatives at the micro, meso and macro levels. Teachers in each generation have specific beliefs around promotion, career pathways, knowledge transfer and talent retention that need to be recognised and considered in future succession planning.
Heeding the CALL (Comprehensive Assessment of Leadership for Learning)
Authors: Min Sookweon , Modeste Marsha E. , Salisbury Jason , Goff Peter T.
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to examine what school leadership practices are associated with a school’s level of instructional collaboration among school professionals and also investigates what school characteristics are linked to the level of instructional collaboration in a school.

Design/methodology/approach

– This study drew data from the Comprehensive Assessment of Leadership for Learning (CALL) survey. CALL is a multi-source measure of distributed leadership, comprised of five domains of school leadership practices. Responses from 3,767 teachers and 167 administrators working at 129 schools were analyzed using ordinary least squares regression analysis.

Findings

– The findings show that there are significant relationships between school leadership practices and the extent of instructional collaboration taking place within schools, both in terms of quantity and quality. In particular, school leadership practices that are closely related to facilitating instruction and allocating resources are associated with a school’s instructional collaboration, whereas a leadership practice related to environmental factors tends not to be significantly correlated with a school’s collaborative culture. This study also found that leadership perspectives on instructional collaboration are an important predictor of both quantity and quality of collaboration among school professionals.

Originality/value

– This study clarifies the importance of school leadership in a collaborative culture and also provides empirical evidence of what specific practices of school leadership predict the frequencies of professional collaborative activities in school as well as their quality. In addition, this study demonstrates how schools’ contextual factors are related to the level of instructional collaboration among professionals.
School-based management: Arab education system in Israel
Authors: Arar Khalid , Abu-Romi Amal
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to investigate the issue of school-based management (SBM) in elementary schools in the Arab education system in Israel, comparing schools experienced in SBM, schools beginning to use SBM and schools that do not use SBM.

Design/methodology/approach

– A quantitative research used a structured questionnaire to gather responses from 214 teachers from ten Arab schools in Israel, 70 from schools that do not practice SBM, 64 from schools beginning to use SBM and 80 from schools defined as experienced in the use of SBM. The questionnaire included six parts.

Findings

– Findings indicated that perceived improvements in pedagogy, organizational structure and participation in decision making were strikingly evident in schools with experience of SBM, more than in the two other types of school. Contrastingly, perceived improvements in budget management were more evident in schools beginning to use SBM. It was also found that teachers teaching in schools with experience in SBM reported the highest levels of satisfaction while teachers teaching in schools that do not use SBM reported lowest levels of satisfaction. The most influential dimension of satisfaction was teachers’ participation in decision making.

Originality/value

– The paper is original in its context, uniqueness, social and practical contribution.
Femininities in teaching: dialectic of self and others
Authors: Ramezanzadeh Akram , Adel Seyyed Mohammadreza , Eghtesadi Ahmad Reza
Published: April 2016

Purpose

Purpose – The present study based on grounded theory explores the gender identity development of 40 Iranian female EFL teachers teaching at Iranian universities to examine how these women’s gender identity as part of their broader personal identity is developing through actions and inter-actions resulting from their job.

Design/methodology/approach

Design/methodology/approach–A grounded theory study including theoretical sampling and constant comparison was conducted to address our main research questions. Data were gathered through online focus group interviews, online, asynchronous, in-depth interviews, and reflective memos. Collected data were analyzed through open, axial, and selective coding techniques.

Findings

Findings – The results of the analysis of data led to the emergence of the final core theme of dialectic of self and others. Participants were in constant conflict of being a true woman, a woman behind the mask of a man, and a human wearing no gender.

Originality/value

Originality/value –The paper provides a new portrait of gender identity development in line with Wenger’s (1998) communities of practice demonstrating multidimensionality and complexity of femininities. Such a study can shed light on challenges, experiences, and expectations of women working outside the home.
Visualization of Textile Surface Roughness Based on Silhouette Image Analysis
Authors: Jin-lian Hu , Binjie Xin
Published: April 2016

This paper presents a digital imaging method based on silhouette image analysis to visualize the 3D surface roughness of textile or other flexible materials. A prototype of imaging system consisting of five components was developed: visible lighting source (white backlighting), sample stage, progressive sample feeding equipment, detector (CCD camera) and software. A sequence of silhouette images of textile surface patches could be digitalized progressively when the sample passes through the sharp edge of crossbeam in bending status, so that the whole 3D surface profile could be generated by the combination of silhouette height profile of each surface patch in sequence. This non-destructive testing method is effective for surface roughness characterization or defects detection of flexible materials; it could reconstruct a pure 3D surface profile of textile surface while discarding the information of surface color so as to avoid the fusion of shadows and dark colors, which is impossible to be implemented based on the traditional 2-D image analysis.
Peel Test: A Tool to Assess The Stickiness of Honeydew Sugar
Authors: Amara A. Ayed , Drean J.Y. , Nardin M. , Frydrych et R.
Published: April 2016

People involved in the cotton industry, from growers to spinners, have been concerned about the problem of stickiness encountered during cotton processing from fibres to yarn. Many methods have been successfully developed to identify and measure stickiness and also to
reduce the effect of these contaminations. Yet due to the poor fundamental scientific knowledge regarding the mechanisms of sugar adhesion on fibres, the major part of these methods is empirically based. Today, gaining knowledge about stickiness seems impossible without the help of a fundamental study on the accurate composition of honeydew and on the mechanisms of honeydew adhesion. This paper introduces a new quantitative analysis method for honeydew adhesion behaviour measurement. Adhesion measurement has been carried out on both individual sugar and sugar mixture and it reveals a strong influence of moisture content on adhesion energy and a weak influence of the type of metallic surface on adhesion energy.
Binge Eating Behaviors, Neuroticism, and Compulsive Clothing Buying: Are They Related?
Authors: Trautmann Julianne , Johnson Tricia Widner
Published: April 2016

The purpose of this research is to determine if bulimic behaviors and high levels of neuroticism lead to compulsive clothing buying. Female students from a large midwestern university in the United States were administered a Compulsive Clothing Buying scale, the binging/control subscale of the BULIT-R, and the NEO-FFI personality questionnaire. Using Amos 6.0, a path analysis indicated that neuroticism significantly predicted binging behaviors, and binging tendencies significantly predicted compulsive clothing buying. Neuroticism was not found to be related to compulsive clothing buying directly. Findings may suggest that appearance and appearance-related products are of utmost importance to female consumers who engage in compulsive consumption behaviors (i.e., binging or compulsive buying).
Evaluating Textile Fabric Color Variation by Scanner
Authors: Shams-Nateri A.
Published: April 2016

The purpose of this publication is to describe the possibility of using a scanner for the evaluation of color variation or color difference of textile fabrics. Initially, the color specification of colored fabrics were measured by spectrophotometers and the actual color
differences between colored fabrics were calculated by the δE*ab color difference formula. Then, a scanner was used to take images of the textile fabrics. The obtained images were filtered for noise removal. The RGB values of the obtained images were used for the evaluation of textile fabrics color variation. Several methods were used to evaluate color difference by a scanner. The best prediction was obtained by the neural networks methodwith 1.014 δE*ab. Using this method, the accuracy of prediction for training sets was better than that for the testing sets. The performance of each method depends on the color difference values. so that, for low and high color difference, the best prediction was obtained by neural network, and for median color difference, the best prediction was obtained by the multi linear regression method. The obtained results show that the color variation of textile fabrics can be estimated by using scanner RGB variation.
Finite Element Modelling of the Warp Knitted Structure
Authors: Kallivretaki Argyro , Vassiliadis Savvas , Blaga Mirela , Provatidis Christopher
Published: April 2016

The finite element modelling of the Charmeuse warp knitted fabrics is the main subject of this paper. The proposed model consists of a three-dimensional representation of the warp knitted fabric microstructure and a mechanical analysis of the defined unit cell. An iterative
calculation procedure was used for the definition of the geometrical representation of the structure. The parametric modelling is based on the main structural parameters: yarn crosssection, warp density, course density, and yarn consumption of the front and the back bar. The flattening of the yarn cross-section has been introduced in the undeformed state of the model for the realistic approach of the authentic situation. The Finite Element Method (FEM) with contact analysis was implemented for a mechanical analysis of the multi-body structural unit. The appropriate contact algorithm was defined for fast convergence during the solution. Although the complexity of the unit cell was high, the modelling was possible and it can become a tool for the mechanical analysis of warp knitted fabrics.
Modelling of Virtual Garment Design in 3D
Authors: Cichocka Agnieszka , Bruniaux Pascal , Koncar Vladan
Published: April 2016

This paper presents an introduction to the modelling of virtual garment design process in 3D… Our global project of virtual clothing design, along with the conception of a virtual adaptive mannequin, is devoted to creating and modelling garments in 3D. Starting from ideas of mass customization, e-commerce and the need of numerical innovations in the garment industry, this article presents a model of virtual garment and methodology enabling virtual clothing to be conceived directly on an adaptive mannequin morphotype in 3D. A short description of the overall garment model under constraints is presented. To explain the overall methodology, the basic pattern of trousers is given. The global model of garment creation in 3D is composed of three parts - a human body model, an ease model and a garment model. The most essential part is the ease model, which is necessary for the proposed process of garment modelling. After describing each garment modelling element influencing this process, a detailed presentation of the ease model in relation to the garment model is proposed. The combination of the previously mentioned models may be considered as 2 interconnected sub-models. The first sub-model is linked with the front pattern position on the body and the second with the back pattern position on the trousers with appropriate ease values. In order to execute the identification procedure of the correct ease values and consequently their right positions on the human body, an algorithm of identification is proposed. The two sub-models are strongly connected as in the feedback effect caused by the interactions of the trouser front and back patterns. The aforementioned connection phenomenon appears during modelling and it depends on the structure of the proposed ease model. The relatively significant number of parameters requires the use of the identification technique. Finally, the superposition of virtual and real patterns was done in order to visualise the results.
Effects of Sampling Methods on Detection of Yarn Quality
Authors: Kan C.W. , Lau M.P.
Published: April 2016

Quality control is essential to ensure product quality in the textile industry and the way of sampling can determine its effectiveness as the facts regarding the quality are derived from the inspection of the samples chosen. Such data can be used in the control charts to determine whether control is necessary at the desirable level and whether further industrial processes are required. If products or processes are not inspected carefully, these decisions cannot be made properly.

Two case studies were carried out in order to investigate the effects of two sampling methods, namely, fixed sampling and random sampling, on the detection of yarn characteristics. According to the results of the yarn strength (tenacity) test, it was found that data obtained by random sampling were more revealing about the reality of a spinning process (whether it was in control or out of control) than fixed sampling. The findings also help detect the quality characteristics of different types of yarn, such as ring-spun yarn and open-end yarn.
Effect of UV Curable Pretreatments on the Color Quality of Inkjet Printed Polyester Fabrics
Authors: Fan Qinguo , Xue Hongxia , Kim Yong K.
Published: April 2016

Woven and knitted polyester fabrics were pretreated with formulations containing waterborne UV curable resins and silica particles to improve inkjet print quality. The selected formulations were applied with low add-on to reduce the adverse effect on fabric hand without sacrificing the print quality. A print pattern with block areas and lines in cyan, magenta, yellow, and black colors was designed and inkjet printed on the pretreated fabrics with a wide-format inkjet printer (Encad Novajet 750) to investigate the effects of the UV curable pretreatment on the inkjet print color qualities including color depth, color gamut and color lightness.

Experimental results show that both the color depth and gamut of prints on the pretreated taffeta and knitted polyester fabrics were enhanced compared to those on untreated polyester fabrics. However, both the color depth and gamut of the prints on the pretreated satin polyester fabrics were reduced. The lightness change of the inkjet printed colors on pretreated knitted fabrics is similar to that of untreated fabrics whereas the lightness change of prints on pretreated satin and taffeta fabrics shows some differences. All colors have increased lightness on pretreated satin fabrics. However, magenta and black have decreased lightness on the pretreated taffeta fabrics.
Fading Time Study on Prepared Thymolphthalein, Phenolphthalein and their Mixture Disappearing Ink
Authors: Shama S.A. , El-Molla M.M. , Basalah Riad F. , Saeed S. El-Sayed
Published: April 2016

Disappearing ink was prepared using different concentrations of thymolphthalein, phenolphthalein and their mixture, applying to different types of handwriting surfaces such as cotton, polyester and polyamide. The effects of thymolphthalein, phenolphthalein and alkali concentrations (i.e. pH) on the fading time were studied. The handwriting stability increased when the concentration of thymolphthalein or phenolphthalein was increased. At a high concentration of alkali with phenolphthalein and its mixture with thymolphthalein, the handwriting stability decreased with polyester or polyamide handwriting surfaces and the stability increased in the case of cotton. When the faded handwriting surfaces were subject to the thermal effect in a thermostatically controlled oven at 100°C for 10 minutes by hanging them with suitable hooks, there was no change in the faded handwriting. When they were at 150°C for 20 minutes, the faded phenolphthalein ink, which contained 0.5ml of 1N NaOH, was visible and shown red on the polyester and polyamide handwriting surfaces, but there was no change on the faded cotton handwriting surface.
Prediction of Color Attributes Through Geometrical Modeling
Authors: Mathur Kavita , Seyam Abdel-Fattah M. , Hinks David , Donaldson R. Alan
Published: April 2016

Today, Jacquard woven fabric producers are able to digitally control each warp yarn individually, pre-program the variable pick density and speed for each filling yarn, and automatically change a pattern without stopping the weaving process. Jacquard CAD systems dramatically reduce the time to produce fabric from the artwork or target design The process of weave/color selection for each area of the pattern is, however, still highly dependent on the CAD system operator who works from a particular color gamut. Multiple weaving trials are required to get a sample that matches the original artwork since the process requires the designer‘s subjective evaluation. The lack of automatic selection of weaves/color matching prompts this research.

This paper addresses the development of a geometric model for predicting the color contribution of each warp and filling yarn on the fabric surface in terms of construction parameters. The combination of geometric modeling and existing color mixing equations enables the prediction of the final color of different areas of a Jacquard pattern. The model was verified experimentally and a close agreement was found between a color mixing equation and the experimental measurements.
Oil Removing of Waste Silk by a Process of Combining Bacteria with Surfactants
Authors: Xuexia Yang , Jihong Lao , Hui Chen
Published: April 2016

The removing of oil from waste silk is carried out widely by microbial fermentation. However, it is difficult to remove the oil completely. In this study, surfactants were used to enhance microbial oil removing. In seven of the surfactants that were tested, 0.1% of the anionic surfactants inhibited the growth of bacteria and 0.1% of the nonionic surfactants partially inhibited the growth of bacteria. When only the surfactant was used to remove oil, all of the tested surfactants helped remove oil from the waste silk and treatment that added 0.1% AEO-9 gave the lowest oil content.

When surfactants were combined with bacteria to remove oil, the oil content was further reduced and the lowest oil content was obtained by combining AEO-9 and bacteria. The optimum conditions for oil removing by combining AEO-9 with bacteria were pH8.0, temperature 40°C, 4% (v/v) inoculum size and 3 days incubation time. Compared with untreated silk, silk treated by combining surfactants with bacteria resulted in a decrease in oil content and improvement in appearance. Scanning electron micrographs showed that treated samples had a clean surface.
Analysis of Keratin Fibre Damage under Various Surface Treatment Conditions
Authors: Cheng S.Y. , Yuen C.W.M. , Kan C.W. , Cheuk K.K.L.
Published: April 2016

This paper investigates the effect of three different treatments, namely (i) sunlight exposures, (ii) bleaching and (iii) perming on the damage of the keratin fibres (with the use of human hair). Scanning electron microscopy was applied to examine the surface morphology of the samples. Hair samples appeared to be rougher and their scales diminished after the treatments. The degree of colour change of samples was measured using a diffuse reflectance spectrophotometer. All three different treatments caused a certain degree of colour change on the samples. Urea bisulphite solubility test was also employed to investigate the alkaline damage of samples.

The results illustrated that the urea bisulphite solubility of samples conformably decreased when they were subject to these three types of treatments. With respect to the tensile strength property, the results indicate that the breaking load of treated samples decreased dramatically after undergoing three different types of treatments. On evaluating the test results, it was concluded that the bleaching process imparted the most severe damages to hair. The results of the different test methods were evaluated and discussed.
Study on Decolouration of Reactive Dyes by Laccase
Authors: DING Li , XING Tieling , CHEN Guoqiang
Published: April 2016

Five different structural reactive dyes (Reactive Brilliant Blue K-3R, Everacion Blue H-ERD, Moderzol Blue FBR, Atuzol Black B and Moderzol Blue HEGN) were treated with laccase (Denilite II US) in order to determine the optimum decolouration conditions. The experiments showed that laccase had distinct decolouration effects on these five dyes. Under optimum conditions, the colour removal rates of Everacion Blue H-ERD and Moderzol Blue HEGN were over 90%. Furthermore, the effects of different additives, such as acid ion, metal ion, and surfactants on the decolouration rate of Reactive Brilliant Blue K-3R were discussed. The results show that the decolouration rate is significantly promoted through the addition of Cu2+ and Al3+, while it is inactivated with Fe2+ and ion surfactants. Moreover, the COD removal rates of the five dyes are more than 75%.
A Novel Approach to Measure Friction in Textile Fibre Assemblies
Authors: Mahendra Gowda R.V. , Mohanraj S.
Published: April 2016

Textile technologists have already recognized the role of fibre friction in various textile processes. Attempts have been made to develop a novel instrument system to quantify fibre friction and relate it with fibre processing, yarn quality and ultimately, the fabric handle. In this context, the current paper presents research work carried out in designing and developing a novel system to measure friction in various textile fibre assemblies. The paper discusses the novel features of the Computer Aided Friction Tester, designed and developed exclusively for characterising friction in fibres, sheets of yarn, fabrics, nonwovens, polymeric films, composites and other technical textiles. It also provides the highlights of frictional characteristics measured in various textile fibre assemblies and the reasons for their occurrences.
An Exploration on the Compact Level of the Ballistic Fabric of the Military Helmet and Its Ballistic Performance
Authors: Chang Jin Jiang , Cheng Wang
Published: April 2016

The fabric construction of the ballistic fabrics used in military helmets is analyzed in this research and the ballistic performance of the fabric construction is compared. The advanced compact index Ψz is used in designing the construction of the ballistic fabrics used for military helmets. There is a relationship between the compact index of the fabric and its ballistic performance when this method is selected. Once the compact level of the fabric is grasped accurately, it raises the distinct thinking that antiballistic fabric design and its weavability in relation to the product performance of antiballistic fabric, gives free rein to get twice the results with half the effort. An effective parameter can then be supplied to a Computer Simulation Design to be used as a reference plan to increase ballistic fabric design. The particularity of national defense products which require reducing costs, raising efficiency, performing effective combat and putting into use quickly is addressed. This is a method to improve the performance of current basic materials.
Demand and Retail Management in Luxury Fashion Industries
Authors: Caniato Federico , Caridi Maria , Castelli Cecilia , Luca Luca
Published: April 2016

Supply chain management is a critical issue when dealing with the fashion industry. When managing retail, Demand Management is an area that requires investigation because retail is usually the only contact point between the company and its customers. This paper focuses on two luxury fashion industries; fashion apparel and shoes, watches and jewellery. The goal is to understand how the players in these markets deal with their retail channel and the Demand Management process and to find out which are the main drivers that influence their behaviour.

Management practices are analysed using the case study methodology. The findings show that a relationship exists between the company’s features, such as ( the configuration and control of the retail stores) and the products they sell (the duration of the products lifecycle) and the use of retail and Demand Management levers which have been grouped into five main families; information management; demand forecasting; assortment planning; orders and replenishments management, and demand and supply synchronization.
Bleaching and Dyeing of Superfine Wool Powder / Polypropylene Blend Film
Authors: Wang Xin , Xu Weilin , Cui Weigang , Li Wenbin , Wang Xungai
Published: April 2016

Fibers based regenerated protein draw much attention for recycling discarded protein resources and can produce biodegradable and environmental friendly polymers. In this study, superfine wool powder is blended with polypropylene (PP) to produce wool powder/PP blend film through extrusion and hot-pressing. Hydrogen peroxide is used to bleach the black colored surface of the blend films. The effects of peroxide concentration, bleaching time and powder content on the final whiteness and mechanical properties of the blend films are investigated.

The bleached films are dyed with acid red dyes and the dyed color is evaluated using a Computer Color Matching System. Color characters of dyed films, such as L*, a*, b*, ΔE*ab, C*ab and K/S values are measured and analyzed. The study not only reuses discarded wool resources into organic powder, widens the application of superfine wool powder on polymers, but also improves the dyeing properties of PP through the addition of protein content.
Production and Characterization of Novel Perfumed Curtain Fabrics
Authors: Shahba Afaf Farag
Published: April 2016

Different types of curtain fabrics were subject to a long lasting treatment. These fabrics are generally used in the manufacture of curtain fabrics, namely 100% cotton, cotton/viscose, cotton/linen and cotton/polyester. In addition to these fabrics, polyester/linen and polyester/viscose blend fabrics were also used. All these fabrics were separately functionalized with monochlorotriazenyl β-cyclodextrin (R-β-CD) and then treated with citronella oil or camphor. The perfumed curtain fabrics were evaluated for smell intensity during almost six months, retained tensile strength and durability of odour (smell) against several washing cycles. Results obtained show that the odour retention of functionalized curtain fabrics is dependent on the amount of β-CD moieties on the curtain fabrics (expressed as nitrogen content).

Unmodified curtain fabric lost its odour after 2 months and the smell intensity was approximately zero. It was also found that at the same nitrogen content (i.e., same amount of β-CD moieties on the fabrics); the odour retention of modified curtain fabrics treated with either citronella oil or camphor was identical. In addition, cellulosic-based curtain fabrics (100% cotton, cotton/viscose and cotton/linen fabrics) showed higher odour retention after 6 months and higher resistance against washing compared with polyester-based curtain fabrics.
Bioallethrin – Based Cotton Finishing to Impart Long – Lasting Toxic Activity Against Mosquitoes
Authors: Hebeish A. , Hamdy I.A. , EL–Sawy S.M. , Abdel –Mohdy F.A.
Published: April 2016

The chemical treatment of cotton fabric with bioallethrin to impart a toxic effect against mosquitoes is thoroughly investigated. The treatment is carried out either by an impregnation method or surface coating method. These fabrics are washed and stored, then tested against mosquitoes. A bioassay investigation, scanning electron microscopy examination, and testing for physico mechanical properties of the bioallethrin ∓ treated fabrics are performed. Additionally, we evaluate treated cotton fabrics with a polymer coating process designed to increase the wash durability and time of storage of bioallethrin ∓ treated fabrics.
Optimization of Dyeing Performance of an Eco Friendly Natural Dye “Vervain Barks” applied to Silk Fabrics at Different pH Values
Authors: Al-Amoudi E.S. , Osman E.M.
Published: April 2016

The present study is carried out to optimize the dyeing conditions for silk fabrics using a new natural dye, Vervain barks at different pH values in the absence of mordants. Also, experiments are implemented to investigate the effects of processing conditions on color difference, color scale, color strength and light fastness characteristics. The changes in the morphology of the silk fabric surface after dyeing are studied using a scanning electron microscope. The pH in the acidic range 1-5 is optimum for dyeing, showing very good fastness properties for silk dyed fabrics
Swelling Behavior of Stimuli-Sensitive Hydrogels Based on N-Isopropylacrylamide and Sodium Acrylate Copolymer
Authors: Huang He , Mao Zhi-Ping , Yu Wei-Dong
Published: April 2016

Stimuli-sensitive poly (N-isopropylacrylamide-co-sodium acrylate) [poly (NiPAAm-co-SA)] hydrogels are prepared by free radical polymerization of N-isopropylacrylamide (NiPAAm) and sodium acrylate (SA) using N, N'-methylene bisacrylamide (BIS) as a crosslinking agent. The effects of SA content, crosslinking agent concentration and the pre-gel solution concentration on the swelling behavior of poly (NiPAAm-co-SA) hydrogel are investigated systematically. The results indicate that the swelling capacities increase with an increase in the amount of hydrophilic poly (sodium acrylate) anionic units, and thermo-sensitivity is weakened simultaneously. The effect of the pre-gel solution concentration on the swellabilities of poly (NiPAAm-co-SA) is more than that of the crosslinking agent concentration. Furthermore, the pH-sensitivity of the networks is also investigated, and it is found that the swelling behavior of poly (NiPAAm-co-SA) hydrogels obviously improves when the pH value is 5.
Effect of Fiber Orientation on Air Permeability of Fibrous Layers
Authors: Kornoohin I.P. , Kornoohina T.A. , Mironov S.A.
Published: April 2016

The experimental setup for studying fibre orientation effects on air permeability of fibrous layers is described. The orientation parameter is obtained through small-angle scattering by laser radiation. Experimental dependence of pressure drop on air velocity follows Darcy's law. Permeability factors depend on orientation parameters and effective density of porous layers. It is demonstrated that for a fibrous layer porosity of ε > 0.9, the streams around individual fibres may be considered independent.

In such a case, the resulting force acting on the entire layer can be defined by force summation over individual fibre length. Resistance force acting on the unit segment of a fibre inclined at an angle to the flow direction is specified by the formula involving two empirical constants, which defines longitudinal and transversal resistance factors.

Integrating the procedure over all possible fiber directions that are defined by axially symmetric angular distribution density gives the resistance force acting on the entire layer of fiber and also pressure drop value. A comparison with obtained experimental data gives the values of transversal and longitudinal resistance factors. Their ratio, which approximately equals to 2, fits the findings of other publications
User-Friendly Permeability Predicting Software for Technical Textiles
Authors: Verleye B. , Morren G. , Lomov S.V. , Sol H. , Verpoest I. , Roose D.
Published: April 2016

For simulating the injection stage of the manufacturing process of composite materials, the permeability of the textile is an important input parameter. The permeability of textiles can be determined experimentally.

However, this is a time and resource consuming process and no standard procedure is yet available. In this paper, we will present a user-friendly software package to simulate the flow through a textile model and predict the permeability

Results are presented for a woven fabric and two different non-crimp fabrics. The computed permeability values are compared with experimental results.
Automatic Classification of Woven Fabrics using Multi-class Support Vector Machine
Authors: Ben Salem Yassine , Nasri Salem
Published: April 2016

This paper proposes the recognition and classification of three mean woven fabrics, twill, satin and plain. The proposed classifier is based on the texture analysis of woven fabric images for the recognition.

In the pattern recognition phase, three methods are tested and compared: Gabor wavelet, Local Binary Pattern operators (LBP) and gray-level co-occurrence matrices (GLCM).

Taking advantage of the difference between the woven fabric textures, we adopt a technique which is based on the texture of the images in the pattern recognition phase. For the classification phase we used a support vector machine (SVM) which we have proven is a suitable classifier for this type of problem

The experimental results show that some of the studied methods are more compatible with this classification problem than others. Although it is the oldest method, GLCM always remains accurate (97.2 %).The fusion of the Gabor wavelet and GLCM give the best result (98%), but the GLCM have the better running time.