bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
ECO-SYSTEM BASED BEACH EROSION CONTROL BY BERM NOURISHMENT COMBINED WITH BURIED SAND TUBE
Authors: Sato Shinji , Murakami Keisuke , Watanabe Kunihiro , Okamura Yuuichi , Hashimoto Shin , Ohno Masahiro
Published: February 2019

Miyazaki Coast is a 10 km stretch sandy beach between the Miyazaki Port and the Hitotsuse River, located south of Japan facing the Pacific Ocean. Significant beach erosion has been observed owing to the entrapment of sand in the harbor area and the blockage of longshore sand transport by the river mouth jetties. Sato et al. (ICCE 2010) estimated that the direction of the long-term longshore sand transport is to the southward on the basis of thermo-luminescence measurement of beach sediments. Continuous bathymetry surveys indicated the southward longshore sand transport rate at 200 thousand m3/year. However, a large variability of the incident wave direction suggested the variability in the direction of the longshore transport. Occasional attacks of typhoon storms appeared to accelerate the erosion. As a countermeasure to mitigate the erosion, sand nourishment has been introduced since 2008 with the amount of 50 to 80 thousand m3/year. Three groins were constructed to decrease the longshore transport. However, further erosion has been observed by typhoon storms even on the nourished area. This paper describes the results of on-site monitoring of waves, currents and topography change to understand the role of typhoon storms in beach erosion and to investigate the performance of eco-system based erosion control works.
NATIONAL SCALE MULTI-HAZARD MODEL PLATFORM FOR EXTREME CYCLONE IMPACTS ON COASTS AND INFRASTRUCTURE
Authors: Taylor David , Aldridge Joanna , Dent Jarrod , Churchill Jim
Published: February 2019

Extreme event impacts on coastlines and infrastructure is often driven by a combination of processes and factors. In cyclone (hurricane) prone coastlines, wind, rain, storm surge, tide and waves can all contribute to damage and loss of infrastructure. With increasing value of coastal assets, hazard and risk management is increasingly assessing multi-hazard impacts from extreme events, and cumulative damage from multiple events within short time frames. A novel multi-hazard model system has been developed to assess cyclone hazards on the Australian coastline from a combination of wind, rain, tide, storm surge and wave impacts. The model system is capable of deriving return period hazard levels for single and combined hazards, and also long-duration, for example 10,000 year duration, event sets to analyze cumulative impacts. The hazard model system is comprised of high-resolution, calibrated process models addressing the various physical processes that contribute to the overall hazard.
ADVANCES AND ISSUES IN UNCERTAINTY QUANTIFICATION FOR COASTAL FLOOD HAZARDS
Authors: Asher Taylor G. , Irish Jennifer L. , Resio Donald T.
Published: February 2019

Probabilistic flood hazard assessments have advanced substantially, with modern methods for dealing with the risk from tropical cyclones utilizing either a variation of the joint probability method with optimal sampling (JPM-OS)2,3 or the statistical deterministic track method (SDTM)1,4. In the JPM-OS, tropical cyclones are reduced to a set of 5 to 9 parameters, whose characteristics are analyzed statistically to develop a joint probability distribution for tropical cyclones of given characteristics. In the SDTM, cyclogenesis of a large number of storms is seeded via a statistical model from historical data, then storms are propagated using one of several different methods, incorporating varying degrees of the physics of cyclone transformation as the storms propagate. Due to the significant cost of storm surge simulations, some form of optimization or selection is then performed to reduce the number of synthetic storms that must be simulated to determine the flood elevation corresponding to a given recurrence interval (e.g. the so-called 100-year flood). In both methods, substantial uncertainties exist, which have a tendency to increase the estimated flooding risk. Efforts to account for these uncertainties have varied, and there remains significant work to be done. Here, we demonstrate how these uncertainties tend to increase the flood risk and show that additional sources of uncertainty remain to be accounted for.
MODELING THE EFFECT OF LAND-BUILDING PROJECTS ON STORM SURGE AND HURRICANE WAVES IN COASTAL LOUISIANA
Authors: Hu Kelin , Chen Qin , Meselhe Ehab
Published: February 2019

Wetland loss on the hurricane-prone Louisiana coast continues at an alarmingly high rate. Coastal Louisiana is at risk of losing between 2118 and 4677 km2 of land over the next 50 years (Couvillion et al., 2013). To combat the devastating wetland loss, the Louisiana 2017 Coastal Master Plan (CMP) called for sediment diversions along the lower Mississippi River to enhance sediment supplies to coastal wetlands and build more wetlands. The Louisiana Coastal Protection and Restoration Authority (CPRA) plans to spend $2 billion on the Mid-Breton and Mid-Barataria sediment diversion projects. In this study, numerical experiments were conducted to quantify the effect of land-building projects on storm surge and hurricane waves in Barataria and Breton Basins of Louisiana.
OPTIMIZING NATURE-BASED FEATURES FOR WAVE DISSIPATION AND LAND-WATER CONNECTIVITY
Authors: Boswell Maura , Tahvildari Navid
Published: February 2019

Living shorelines integrate structural and natural features to stabilize the shoreline, through reduction of erosion from the wave climate, while keeping the connectivity between land and aquatic ecosystems. This study includes field study for two different types of living shoreline systems to quantify and compare their wave dissipation services and provide physics-based guidance for the design of living shoreline systems that are efficient in wave dissipation yet maximize land-water connectivity.
PROBABILISTIC TSUNAMI HAZARD ASSESSMENT (PTHA) AND PTHA-BASED TSUNAMI SCENARIO AT A PACIFIC COAST OF TOHOKU
Authors: Kihara Naoto , Kaida Hideki , Kimura Tatsuto , Fujii Naoki , Iizuka Keiichi
Published: February 2019

When planning tsunami disaster mitigation and designing important infrastructure from the viewpoint of tsunami resistance in coastal areas, the scale and frequency of tsunamis that will arrive at coastal areas in future are important information. On the other hand, there are large uncertainties in predicting future tsunamis, and thus it is difficult to predict a future tsunami correctly. The technology of probabilistic tsunami hazard assessment (PTHA) has been proposed to evaluate the relationship between the height and frequency of tsunamis that will arrive at coastal areas in future. To consider the uncertainties of the prediction in the PTHA, the logic-tree approach is often adopted. In this approach, both epistemic and aleatory uncertainties are considered systematically. The epistemic uncertainties are caused by lack of knowledge and the aleatory uncertainties are variabilities due to natural randomness. In the logic-tree approach, the epistemic uncertainties are expressed by tree branches and the aleatory uncertainties are expressed by the probabilistic density functions of predicted tsunami heights. By carrying out PTHA, we can obtain a hazard curve, which expresses the relationship between the tsunami height and annual frequency of exceedance. Recently, methodologies by which PTHA-based-tsunami-scenarios are determined have been proposed. By using tsunami scenarios, detailed inundation processes and patterns can be evaluated. In this study, we apply the technologies of PTHA to the pacific coast of Tohoku, Japan. Then, we determine PTHA-based tsunami scenarios, that overflow a seawall constructed at the target coast and can be used for the evaluation of inundation processes.
CLIMATE CHANGE KEY-CHALLENGES IN COASTAL ENGINEERING
Authors: Losada IÃ±igo J. , Camus Paula , Toimil Alexandra , Espejo Antonio , Izaguirre Cristina
Published: February 2019

Coastal engineers play a leading role in assessing climate change impacts in coastal and low-lying areas and in the design and implementation of adaptation solutions to build resilient coastal systems. Given the continuous growth of coastal communities and assets along the world coastlines, the need to protect and preserve natural and socioeconomic coastal systems and the escalating impacts of climate change (Wong et al. 2014), there is an urgent demand by decision makers for coastal engineering practice dealing with risk assessment and adaptation under high levels of uncertainty.
AT-SEA EXPERIMENT AND SITE MONITORING ON A NEW COASTAL PROTECTION ENGINEERING METHOD-ARTIFICIAL MARINE FOREST
Authors: Lin Jing-Hua , Liu Cheng-Chi , Hwang Kao-Shu , Chen Ching-Ju , Liang Nai-Kuang
Published: February 2019

A new engineering method on the coastal protection, "Artificial Marine Forest (AMF)" proposed by Liang et al. (2004) is composed by lots of tautly-moored floating structures (TMFS). The concept of this method is to establish a buffer zone between the shoreline and the sea area by building a dense forest to reduce the wave energy and protect the coast. When deploying a larger number of cylindrical floating bodies in the offshore region, the scene is similar to a marine forest.
PROTECTING THE SHORELINE OF THE SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT FROM SEA LEVEL RISE
Authors: Johnson Anna , Trivedi Dilip , Hanegan Kevin , Yu Rosalyn
Published: February 2019

The San Francisco International Airport (SFIA) has approximately eight miles of shoreline along San Francisco Bay. It was built on a series of land reclamations constructed between 1927 and 1972. Primary consolidation and secondary settlement are still ongoing and expected to continue for 10 to 30 more years (M&N 2015). Figure 1 - SFIA Shoreline and Runways The length of shoreline makes SFIA susceptible to flooding. The flood risk is expected to increase with ongoing settlement and future sea level rise (SLR). A system of seawalls has been constructed along the perimeter to protect the airport from flooding. The shoreline along SFIA includes the end of Runway 1-19 and Runway 10-28, shown in Figure 1. Because the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) requires that the end of runways be object-free areas (OFA), which prohibit seawalls from encroaching into the airspace and limits the allowable elevation, protection against future sea level rise (SLR) must be achieved without raising the seawalls. With SLR projections in San Francisco Bay of 1 foot by 2050 and 3 feet by 2100 (NRC 2012), SFIA decided to investigate alternative forms of flood protection at the end of the runways. Presented here is a feasibility study of alternative solutions.
NC BEACH AND INLET MANAGEMENT PLAN: AN EVALUATION OF A DEDICATED BEACH NOURISHMENT FUND
Authors: Finegan Katie , Grant Brandon , Martin Johnny
Published: February 2019

The North Carolina General Assembly started the process for the original NC Beach and Inlet Management Plan (BIMP) in 2000 (HB 1840 Section 13.9c), with completion of the document occurring in 2009. The General Assembly passed legislation to update the BIMP in 2015 (HB 97) to review new coastal and socio-economic data driven by policy changes created since the original document. The NC Department of Environmental Quality (NCDEQ) served as the managing agency for both the original and updated BIMP studies.
UNCERTAINTY AND BIAS IN EXTREME VALUE ANALYSIS OF RECORDS OF STORM SURGES FOR COASTAL PROTECTION PLANS
Authors: Kitano Toshikazu
Published: February 2019

There are several arguments to be discussed for the probability of hazards due to the storm surge. One is a common point of describing the uncertainty of extreme events, and another point is for the special case due to the storm surge. 1) Return level is one of the important results by extreme value analysis, and the confidence interval also serves us an useful and desirable information for uncertainty. Is it true? The answer is negative. Return period is right, and important. But the confidence interval, in this case, is shown for return level which is the constant value that is significant after the repeating encounters of the exceedance levels over very long period. But it is of our interest to know which value is the successively occurring level in the future return period, which is a stochastic variable. It is not a constant value but unknown even for the God. The prediction interval should be employed for the next realized value of our interest.
COASTAL RESILIENCY: MULTI-TIER PROTECTION SYSTEM & RISK MANAGEMENT STRATEGY
Authors: Sloop Robert , Branyon Jacqueline , Trowbridge Matthew
Published: February 2019

North Atlantic hurricanes pose a significant threat to Caribbean islands and their low-lying coastal communities through storm surge, long period swells, coastal flooding, and duration wind and rain events. The increasing intensity and frequency of these damaging storms and rising sea levels require advances in the traditional approaches to coastal protection systems and risk management strategies. Adaptation strategies for coastal locations that do not have the option of mitigated retreat due to the significant infrastructure investment require innovative and tailored solutions to combat the threat of these storm events. In this paper, an 18-year case study of a Caribbean island Resort evaluates a long-term cumulative process of providing coastal protection solutions in stepped tiers and assessing their effectiveness over four Category 4 hurricanes (Lenny, 1998; Omar, 2008; Earl, 2010; Matthew, 2016).
PROBABILISTIC ASSESSMENT OF PORT OPERABILITY UNDER CLIMATE CHANGE
Authors: Camus Paula , TomÃ¡s Antonio , Izaguirre Cristina , Rodriguez Beatriz , DÃ­az-HernÃ¡ndez Gabriel , Losada IÃ±igo
Published: February 2019

Harbors are strategic infrastructures within the local, regional and global economy. The objective of a harbor is to guarantee the safety, serviceability and exploitation of all activities, for each element, and in all project phases. Within this context, Level III Verification Method is recommended for the probabilistic evaluation of failure modes and operational stoppage modes (downtime) of maritime structures; and the Spanish Recommendations for Maritime Structures (ROM) proposes a simulation method based on the Monte Carlo technique. On the other hand, ports are susceptible to impacts from climate change driven processes, like sea level rise (SLR) or changes in waves and storm surges. These impacts could reduce the functionality of ports and therefore negatively affect the effectiveness of supply chain network. In this work, we focus on a very long-term probabilistic assessment of the port operability due to wave agitation inside the port including the potential effects of climate change.
RISK EVALUATION AT DIQUE DEL OESTE BREAKWATER IN PALMA DE MALLORCA (SPAIN)
Authors: Calcerrada Elena , DÃ­az Ana MarÃ­a , Balmaseda Raquel , GalÃ¡n Ãlvaro , Castillo Carmen
Published: February 2019

Breakwaters are subject to coastal storms but also to climate change. The stochastic nature of both wave loading and structural response is different nowadays (and in the near future) from those at the time they were designed and the main investments are related to conservation and maintenance. Therefore, an updated risk analysis is needed in order to decide about adaptation or mitigation actions.
A SLACK MOORING FOR A LARGE SHIP UNDER BEAM SEAS IN PORT
Authors: Sakakibara Shigeki , Sunahara Shunji , Ito Kaku
Published: February 2019

As an empirical and traditional ship mooring method, a pretension mooring (a hard mooring) or slack mooring (without pretension in mooring line) is performed for large ship or small ship, respectively. However, the slack mooring is applied to a large ship under beam seas in port to avoid large roll and sway motions, and excessive loads in mooring lines and fenders. In this study, the mechanism and validity of the slack mooring for large ship is investigated by a physical model test and a numerical simulation method of the moored ship motions and mooring loads under beam seas.
POLLUTANT ADVECTION AND DIFFUSION PROCESSES IN THE LAGOON OF FUNAFUTI ATOLL, TUVALU
Authors: Soto Daisaku , Yokoki Hiromune
Published: February 2019

Funafuti Atoll, where is located on the South Pacific (179Â° 11â€™ 50â€E, 8Â° 31â€™ 16â€S) is the capital atoll of Tuvalu. Most of residents live in Fongafale Island which is located in the eastern-side of the atoll. Lagoonal nearshore of Fongafale Island has a problem of nearshore pollutant caused by outflowing of untreated domestic wastewater. Sato et al.(2015) conducted the numerical simulation of the lagoonal flow field, and the particle advection simulation for estimating the pollutant transportation in the lagoon. However, the simulation was not included the diffusion process of pollutant. In this study, numerical simulation including advection-diffusion processes was conducted to understand the characteristics of the pollutant behavior in the lagoon of Funafuti Atoll.
COASTAL ADAPTATION UNDER SEA LEVEL RISE: PROTOTYPE SCALE MEASUREMENT AND MODELLING OF A DYNAMIC REVETMENT
Authors: Bayle Paul , Blenkinsopp Chris , Masselink Gerd , Conley Daniel
Published: February 2019

A dynamic revetment is a gravel ridge constructed around the wave runup limit to mimic composite beaches which consist of a lower foreshore of sand and a backshore ridge constructed of gravel or cobbles which stabilises the upper beach and provides overtopping protection to the hinterland. These structures contrast with static coastal defence structures as they are â€œdynamicâ€ and are expected to reshape under wave attack. The performance and resilience of a dynamic revetment under sea level rise (SLR) for a range of wave conditions was studied in a large scale laboratory flume. This work provided new information about the application of such structures for coastal protection in the face of a rising sea level.
ADAPTATION MEASURES TO SEA-LEVEL RISE & SUBSIDENCE FOR COASTAL STRUCTURES
Authors: White Thomas E.
Published: February 2019

Sea-Level Rise (SLR) (and often subsidence) are realities in coastal settings. Planning adaptive designs for this reality is prudent, safe, and cost effective.
50-YEAR HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES (USA) ARMY ENGINEERS COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH BOARD (CERB)
Authors: Pope Joan
Published: February 2019

The U. S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Board (CERB), established on 7 November 1963 by Public Law No. 172, of the 88th USA Congress, has had a major impact on the field and profession of coastal engineering for over 50 years. The CERB replaced the Beach Erosion Board (BEB) (created in 1930) and provided oversight to the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC), now the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory. The greatest names in USA coastal engineering and science have served on the CERB and helped to define the course of USA coastal research and practice.
NAGS HEAD RENOURISHMENT â€“ PLANNING, DESIGN, AND NUMERICAL MODELING
Authors: Kaczkowski Haiqing Liu , Kana Tim W , Visser Ruben
Published: February 2019

The 16 kilometer (km) beach along Nags Head (North Carolina, USA) has sustained chronic erosion over the past 50 years. In 2011, 3.5 million cubic meters (m3) of beach-quality sand was dredged from offshore and placed along the oceanfront at fill densities ranging from 150 m3/m to 400 m3/m (averages 220 m3/m). It is the largest locally funded beach nourishment project completed to date in the U.S. Following successful completion of the project, the Town of Nags Head monitored performance and developed strategies for beach maintenance and preservation with the goal of improving protection to all properties and recreational beach area. The short-term plan is a renourishment anticipated to commence in the summer of 2018 or before the 2011 project reaches 50% fill remaining. The long-term plan targets a timeframe of 30 years. This abstract will focus on the short-term plan whose original purpose and goals are to supplement and enhance the initial 2011 project.
MONITORING OF ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS IN WORLDWIDE BEACH NOURISHMENT PRACTICE
Authors: Staudt Franziska , Deutschmann Bjoern , Ganal Caroline , Gijsman Rik , Hass H. Christian , Hollert Henner , Mielck Finn , Shiravani Gholamreza , Schimmels Stefan , Strusinska-Correia Agnieszka , Visscher Jan , Wolbring Johanna
Published: February 2019

The growing pressure on the coastal ecosystem, e.g. through fisheries, tourism or maritime traffic demands the careful balancing of activities and developments in the coastal zone. Strategies and planning tools like Integrated Coastal Zone Management (UNEP/MAP/PAP, 2008) or the ecosystem approach (which is planned to be implemented in the EU through the Marine Strategy Framework Directive, European Commission, 2008) aim at a holistic, environmentally friendly and sustainable development of the worldâ€™s coastlines. Especially in view of rising sea levels, coastal protection becomes crucial for many densely populated coastlines. For the past few decades beach nourishments have been carried out in many coastal regions as â€œenvironmentally friendlyâ€ alternative to hard coastal protection structures, such as groins, revetments or breakwaters (Hamm et al, 2002). However, the extraction, transport and deposition of sediment can have (long-term) impacts on the environment, which are often not completely understood. Subsequently, these impacts cannot be fully taken into account in national and local nourishment practice, leading to an insufficient implementation of the ecosystem approach.
THE ECONOMICS OF SEA LEVEL RISE: FORECASTING FLOOD DAMAGE COST
Authors: Schedel Angela , Schedel John
Published: February 2019

Globally, sea levels are rising. As property owners decide whether and how to protect their assets to minimize future damage, a comprehensive understanding of potential damage costs is vital to making informed, cost-effective decisions. These estimates, when combined with probabilistic modeling of future flood events and sea level rise, can be used to forecast the future costs of flood inundation. Using this information, the economic benefits of different adaptation measures are compared to select the most cost-effective option. This study describes a methodology using Expected Monetary Value (EMV) to make risk-informed decisions for adapting vulnerable assets to sea level rise.
DEVELOPMENT OF FUTURE RETURN PERIOD STILLWATER FLOODPLAINS FOR THE COASTS OF MISSISSIPPI, ALABAMA, AND THE FLORIDA PANHANDLE
Authors: Hagen Scott C. , Bilskie Matthew V. , Irish Jennifer
Published: February 2019

Rising seas increase the exposure, vulnerability, and thus the risk associated with storm surge flowing across the coastal floodplain (Passeri et al. 2015). This is especially true across low-gradient coastal landscapes such as Mississippi, Alabama, and the Florida Panhandle. The extent and depth of flooding will be exasperated over the long term by morphologic changes to the shoreline, dunes and barrier islands (Plant et al. 2016, Passeri et al. 2016), marsh evolution (Alizad et al. 2016, Kidwell et al. 2017, Morris et al. 2016), and land use and land cover changes (Bilskie et al. 2014 & 2016). This presentation will describe how to incorporate biogeophysical impacts of climate change into future tide and surge models. A methodology will be presented (Bilskie et al. 2018) to down select a suite of synthetic storms from recent flood insurance studies to force hurricane storm surge models that represent present day and future changes to the coastal landscape under four sea level rise (SLR) scenarios of low (0.2 m), intermediate-low (0.5 m), intermediate-high (1.2 m), and high (2.0 m). Results of peak storm surge are used to compute the 100-year and 500-year return period floodplain and stillwater surge heights for each SLR scenario.
COASTAL ENGINEERING, COASTAL RESEARCH, UNIVERSITIES AND CLIMATE CHANGE
Authors: Kamphuis William J.
Published: February 2019

Coastal Engineering was new in 1950/1960 and at first, it was all about solving urgent coastal problems. There were no recipes, no formulas, no models; nor was there much experience at that time. Inventiveness and ingenuity were the key design ingredients. Coastal Engineering is a broad subject that is concerned with the interaction between the water and the shore. This involves fluid motion, such as waves and currents and its interaction with a shore that can be anything from sandy beaches to marshlands to highly engineered shorelines, such as found in centers with dense populations. It involves complex hydraulics and fluid mechanics principles on the one hand and complex design criteria on the other hand. It also involves detailed knowledge of the environmental systems where the projects are located. Thus, one obvious need for Coastal Engineering analysis and design is individuals with broad knowledge, interests and background. Such individuals need access to and communication with colleagues in related technical and scientific areas. As a result, much of the early coastal engineering was done at universities.
SURFACE-GROUNDWATER FLOW NUMERICAL MODEL FOR COASTAL BARRIER BEACH
Authors: Perera Eranda , Zhu Fangfang , Dodd Nicholas , Briganti Riccardo , Blenkinsopp Chris
Published: February 2019

Fine-grain beaches are relatively common where the beach forms part of a larger coastal barrier system. In such a coastal system, different water levels could be present in the seaward side and back-barrier lagoon. The water level changes in the steady-state lagoon may potentially induce groundwater dynamics near the beach which would subsequently affect seepage flow into (or out of) the beach. The exchange of water could generate varying hydrodynamical and morphodynamical behaviour at the seaward boundary. Hence, it is important to gain insight into groundwater flow dynamics which results in exchange of water between sea, barrier and lagoon; especially for coastal engineers responsible for planning and managing such a coastal environment. In present work, a numerical model is developed to simulate flows through a coastal barrier and it is validated against prototype-scale experimental results, which can then be extended to model small time-scale groundwater flows that may be too expensive or impractical to set up in a lab.
ESTIMATION OF THE WAVE POWER POTENTIAL IN COASTAL REGIONS OF FLORIDA
Authors: Ozkan Cigdem , Mayo Talea L.
Published: February 2019

The state of Florida has an abundance of renewable energy resources. Florida sees sun in an average 60% of its available daylight hours, and has 8,436 miles of coastline, and thus solar and wave energy are two promising alternatives to more conventional energy sources. The Electric Power Research Institute estimates the wave power potential along the Gulf of Mexico coast and East coast of the United States as 60 TWh/year and 160 TWh/year, respectively. One TWh/year can power approximately 93,850 US homes annually, and thus it is likely that ocean wave energy has the potential to greatly contribute to the overall energy supply. This can be acheived by harnessing and converting wave energy into electricity using wave energy conversion devices. However, the feasibility of wave energy conversion must be assessed before such technologies can be employed. As a first step, the amount of available wave power in regions where devices may be deployed should be estimated. In this study, we assess the wave power potential of Floridaâ€™s nearshore coastal regions.
A MODEL TO SIMULATE BEACH PROFILE EVOLUTION INDUCED BY STORMS
Authors: Zhang Jie , Larson Magnus , Ge Zhenpeng
Published: February 2019

Beach profile change induced by storms is a common and complex process in coastal engineering. Storms often bring high water levels and large waves, which erode the berm and dune, carrying large quantities of sand offshore, often causing severe damage to coastal properties. Thus, considerable research has been carried out to determine storm impact. Early studies mainly focused on laboratory investigations and analysis of field data. Since the 1980â€™s, many engineering numerical models of beach profile change have been developed. Kriebel and Dean (1985) proposed a model (EBEACH) to simulate the beach profile evolution with focus on dune erosion during storms, using the concept of an equilibrium beach profile (EBP). However, features such as bars and berms are not described in this model. Larson and Kraus (1989) developed an empirically based model (SBEACH) for describing the formation of bars and berms, also applying the EBP concept. Steetzel (1990) developed a model for cross-shore transport during severe storms that focuses on offshore transport and erosion. Johnson et al. (2012) developed a CS profile evolution model, CSHORE, that is mainly used to predict beach erosion under the combined effect of waves and currents. Although the model provided satisfactory performance in simulating measured berm and dune erosion in field applications, further improvements in dealing with the sediment transport in the intermittently wet-dry areas are desirable. At present, XBeach proposed by Roelvink et al. (2009) is the most popular and widely used model together with SBEACH. Although the objective of the XBeach model is to predict the profile evolution along the entire profile, i.e., both in the subaerial and subaqueous regions, the processes in the former region are less well described from a physics point of view compared to the latter. The response of the subaerial region in XBeach, including the foreshore, berm, and dune, relies on rather ad-hoc empirical sediment transport formulations. This study presents a profile evolution model that is based on the work by Larson et al. (2015). The emphasis of the model development is physically based descriptions of the subaerial profile response induced by storms. Focus of the model validation here is the berm and foreshore region.
PHYSICAL MODELLING OF PROPELLER SCOUR ON AN ARMOURED SLOPE
Authors: Berard Neville , Prasad Sundar , Miller Brett , Deiber Mathieu , Fuller Nathan
Published: February 2019

CITIC Pacific Mining (CPM) is proposing to increase throughput at their existing Sino Iron Terminal in Cape Preston, Western Australia, using self-propelled Handysize transshipment shuttle vessels (TSV) instead of dumb barges. Initial assessment using various desktop methods (PIANC, 2015) indicated that the armoured rock slope adjacent to the berth face would incur damage due to wash from the vessel side thrusters and the main propeller. Large scale (13.5:1) physical model tests were undertaken in a 6 m x 15 m x 1.4 m deep basin at UNSW to measure wash velocity and armour stability. The physical modelling demonstrated that the rock slope was more stable than expected, but that some armour was mobilized. Additional tests were also completed to investigate the efficacy of Articulated Concrete Block Mattresses (ACMs) to protect the rock slope from propeller wash.
STUDY ON CHARACTERISTICS AND CAUSE OF SAND WAVES IN THE KANMON WATERWAY
Authors: Yamashiro Masaru , Oka Kosaku , Hashimoto Noriaki , Nakagawa Yasuyuki , Yokota Masaki , Ikki Yukifumi , Takayama Masaru
Published: February 2019

The Kanmon waterway is one of the most important international routes in Japan. The waterway is in the Kanmon Strait, which is remarkably narrow and meandering considerably, and the tidal current is rapid and complicated in several places. In the waterway, sand waves, which may hamper the ship navigation, develop on the bottom at some places. The dredging is indispensable to the maintenance of required water depth in the waterway. In this study, for the purpose of accumulating useful knowledge for the efficient maintenance of the Kanmon waterway, the characteristics and cause of the sand waves in the waterway were investigated.
THREE-DIMENSIONAL NUMERICAL MODELING OF SEDIMENT TRANSPORT NEAR COASTAL INLETS
Authors: Wu Weiming
Published: February 2019

Simulation of the hydro- and morphodynamic processes near coastal inlets is important but challenging, due to multiple interacting forces (waves, wind, tides, river flows, density currents, etc.) on a wide range of spatial and temporal scales. A number of 2-D models have been used in the past, but recently 3-D models have gained more and more attentions because better accuracy and reliability are desired. A 3-D model has been developed in this study to simulate the complex flow, sediment transport and bed change near coastal inlets.
DESIGN AND PERFORMANCE OF A MIXED SEDIMENT NOURISHMENT PROJECT ALONG AN URBAN SEDIMENT-STARVED SHORELINE
Authors: Ramsey John , Kelley Sean , Quan Rebecca
Published: February 2019

The long-term shore protection of Bostonâ€™s open ocean shoreline has utilized a variety of coastal engineering strategies to prevent or at least inhibit the impacts of coastal flooding and storm wave action to urban development. The Winthrop Beach region is located to the north of the Boston Harbor entrance and historically incorporated a variety of coastal engineering structures, beginning in the late 1880s, to mitigate the impacts of coastal flooding and storm wave action. To some degree, these â€œhardâ€ shore protection measures have prevented further degradation of upland infrastructure; however, loss of the littoral sediment supply due to coastal armoring of the adjacent upland and the related lowering of the beach fronting the seawall along the length of Winthrop Beach have increased the storm damage potential of the community protected by these structures. Recent, relatively minor northeast storms have caused significant damage to the seawall originally constructed in 1899, requiring temporary stabilization to prevent failure of the wall and the adjacent roadway. Winthrop Beach faces the open ocean, is approximately 2,100 meters in length, and is situated along the east side of Winthrop between two glacial headlands or relic drumlins. To address the issues of shore protection and â€œsediment starvationâ€ along the Winthrop Beach shoreline, a beach nourishment project has been designed to return the shoreline to historic conditions.
BEACH MORPHOLOGICAL CHANGES ON SENDAI COAST BY TYPHOON LIONROCK
Authors: Mitobe Yuta , Tanaka Hitoshi , Suzuki Akihiro , Umeda Makoto , Komori Daisuke , Touge Yoshiya
Published: February 2019

In 2016, a few typhoons attacked Tohoku Area of Japan, and one of them, named Typhoon Lionrock, approached and hit Tohoku Area from the Pacific Coast, which is the first observed typhoon to have such a course in the observation history of Japan. In order to know magnitude of the storm surge and high waves induced by the typhoon and their influence on the coastal area, field surveys were conducted on the day of the typhoon arrival and also the next day. The target of the survey was Sendai Coast, which is a part of the Pacific Coast of Tohoku Area. The coast was severely affected by the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake Tsunami, and its effect on the beach morphology still remains according to shoreline change analysis with aerial photographs by Hoang et al. (2016). In this paper, the shoreline changes by and after the typhoon were analyzed with the aerial photographs taken in every one or two months to understand its effect on the beach processes. And the results were combined with the shoreline data after the 2011 tsunami to see the impact of the typhoon on the beach processes under the recovery from the tsunami event.
VALIDATION OF SAND-MUD MIXTURE TRANSPORT MODEL WITH FIELD AND FLUME EXPERIMENTS
Authors: Kosako Taichi , Nakagawa Yasuyuki , Umeyama Takashi , Takayama Masaru
Published: February 2019

In coastal and estuarine environments, sand-mud mixtures are often formed due to supply of various types of sediment discharge from rivers. For better prediction of the sediment transport patterns and the resultant bathymetry changes in these areas, it is important to apply a sediment transport model that can represent the behavior of sand-mud mixtures depending on the mud content to the simulation. This study aims at elucidating the effect of the mud content on the erosion processes of sand-mud mixtures under the combined wave and current forces through a field observation and flume experiments. A sand-mud mixture transport model was validated based on the field and experimental results.
PREDICTING PORT SEDIMENTATION AND NAVIGATIONAL DEPTHS ON MEDIUM/LONG-TERM TIMESCALES: COMBINING 2D AND SHORELINE MORPHOLOGICAL MODELLING
Authors: Kristensen Sten E. , Niemann Sanne L. , Kaergaard Kasper , Deigaard Rolf , DrÃ¸nen Nils
Published: February 2019

Navigational depths in entrances of ports located on open sandy coasts are governed by the supply of sediment from adjacent coastlines and the complex morphodynamics in and around the port. To predict the depths, a model encapsulating the transport along adjacent shorelines and the detailed morphology around the port structures is required. To resolve this in a fast and robust manner, a novel model which couples the features of DHIâ€™s shoreline model (MIKE 21 FM Shoreline Morphology) and the morphological area model (MIKE 21/3 FM MD) is developed. Morphological simulations with the new tool show very promising results, when predicting the development over relatively long periods. Such new advances in medium/long term modelling of the temporal changes of the bathymetry in and around ports is key to the prediction of the navigational depth, including seasonal and annual variations.
POST-STORM DUNE RECOVERY IN CAPE LOOKOUT NATIONAL SEASHORE, NC
Authors: Hovenga Paige , Ruggiero Peter , Cohn Nick , Hacker Sally , Jay Katya , Moore Laura , Itzkin Michael
Published: February 2019

Coastal dunes are often the first and primary form of defense against destructive surge and waves that accompany extreme storm events. Beach grasses are known to affect dune height, width, and stability, contributing to the duneâ€™s ability to protect the hinterland from wave and flooding hazards (Hacker et al. 2012). However, the interaction and feedbacks between dune development and properties of beach grasses (e.g., species, density) is not fully understood. In particular, our knowledge of the ecomorphodynamic processes controlling the recovery of coastal dunes following storms and the long-term ability of dunes to adapt to changes in climate remains inadequate. The objective of this interdisciplinary research is to characterize the temporal and spatial variability of coastal foredune recovery following major storm events and the subsequent impact of this recovery on future vulnerability. The study region consists of three low-lying barrier islands within the Cape Lookout National Seashore (CALO) along the central coast of North Carolina. The 90 km stretch of coast exhibits spatial variability in dominant dune grass species, grass cover density, coast orientation, beach slope, and wave energy. Using physical and ecological field datasets and process-based numerical modeling, post-storm dune recovery is assessed following Hurricane Matthew (2016).
ENSEMBLE PREDICTION OF MEGA-NOURISMENT MORPHODYNAMIC EVOLUTION
Authors: Valsamidis Antonios , Reeve Dominic , De Schipper Matthieu , Dodd Nicholas
Published: February 2019

Mega-nourishment is an innovative soft coastal protection method (Stive et al., 2013) which was applied for first time in 2011 in the Netherlands. Although conventional nourishments are considerably smaller in size, and designed to maintain their sediment volume to the specific site of their application for as long as possible, mega-nourishments are expected to redistribute via the local hydrodynamic forcing their massive volume along a beach, and provide coastal protection at regional scale.
AN EVALUATION OF SUSPENDED SEDIMENT CONCENTRATION MODELS UNDER BREAKING WAVES
Authors: Lim Gabriel , Jayaratne Ravindra , Shibayama Tomoya
Published: February 2019

Implementing the effects of turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) is essential in producing accurate suspended sediment concentration (SSC) models, especially under breaking wave conditions. SSC is commonly attributed to two different turbulent sources under breaking wave conditions: 1) bed-friction and 2) breaking-induced turbulent vortices. Numerous studies have endeavoured to quantify the effects of TKE and incorporate them into SSC models. To name a few: Mocke & Smith (1992, henceforth MS92), Shibayama & Rattanapitikon (1993, henceforth SR93), Jayaratne & Shibayama (2007, henceforth JS07), and Yoon et al. (2015, henceforth Y15). The present study evaluates these 4 existing SSC models and validates them against recently published datasets from the â€˜CROSSTEXâ€™ (Yoon & Cox, 2010), â€˜SandT-Proâ€™ (Ribberink et al., 2014) and â€˜SINBADâ€™ (vdZ et al. 2015) projects. Following critical evaluation, suggestions are made to enhance existing SSC models, and these findings are then incorporated into producing two new SSC models that indicate improved accuracy.
APPLICATIONS OF A SEDIMENT CELL HIERARCHY AND LANDFORMS TO COASTAL EROSION MANAGEMENT AND MODELLING
Authors: Stul Tanya , Eliot Matthew , Eliot Ian
Published: February 2019

Landform analysis has an integral and often understated role in coastal engineering. The strength of a hierarchical approach derives from a capacity to simultaneously consider change at a wider variety of scales and to focus on processes that are characteristic to each scale. A hierarchy of sediment cells and landforms provides potential for refined evaluation of coastal erosion hazard. Decision-making for erosion management, including identification of setbacks or design of coastal defenses, typically considers several future decades. This time scale presents challenges when using numerical modelling to provide forecasts, because of the reliance on often conceptual oceanographic-sediment process relationships and potential for dynamic coastal behavior to diverge from existing trends or historic behavior. Analysis of coastal morphology in a hierarchical approach may provide a basis for (i) refined modelling, (ii) identification of strategic monitoring effort and (iii) improved interpretation of model outcomes for coastal management.
BEACH EROSION ON GOLDEN BEACH IN SOUTH TAIWAN
Authors: Pao Chun-Hung , Uda Takaaki , Lin Yu-Hsiang , Chen Jia-Lin Julie
Published: February 2019

Golden Beach in Taiwan is a sandy beach attracting many beachgoers because of its wide sandy beach and beautiful sunset. In recent years, this beach has been eroded. The cause of the beach erosion is considered to be due to the wave-sheltering effect of the Anping Harbor breakwaters constructed 4 km north of the beach. Now the restoration of sandy beach is underway by the construction of groins as well as beach nourishment using sand procured from the downcoast deposition area. This study aims to investigate the cause of the beach erosion of this beach to work out the effective measures against beach erosion.
A SCALE MODEL SEDIMENT BYPASSING AND BACK-PASSING SYSTEM ON GALVESTON ISLAND, TEXAS INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGY FOR REGIONAL SEDIMENT MANAGEMENT
Authors: Weber Cris , Moya Juan , Halm Brian , Tucker Randall , Trevino Reuben , Welp Timothy , Maglio Coraggio , Figlus Jens
Published: February 2019

Field deployment for scale model evaluation of an innovative sediment bypassing/back-passing system developing technologies to support present and future sustainable beach nourishment programs and projects on Galveston Island. This is a field scale demonstration project modeling a system designed to harvest beach quality sand using a hybrid, closed system that collects transported bedload material using gravity and natural energies, without any suction component, as sediment is mobilized along the coast through longshore currents and wave energy. The analysis and results of the field deployment will be presented.
FORMATION, TRANSPORT AND BREAKDOWN OF NEAR-BED HIGH-CONCENTRATED MUD SUSPENSION WITHIN THE NORTH PASSAGE OF THE CHANGJIANG ESTUARY
Authors: Ge Jianzhong , Zhou Zaiyang , Ding Pingxing
Published: February 2019

The turbidity maximum region of the Changjiang Estuary would potentially produce near-bed high-concentrated mud suspension (HCMS), which significantly contributes to the sediment transport and morphology within estuary channel. However, the near-bed high-concentrated mud suspension is technologically difficult to be observed and measured in traditional survey methodology. HCMS can frequently occur around an estuary as a result of sediment deposition, mass or bulk erosion, and convergence under physical mechanisms (Bruens et al., 2002; Winterwerp, 2002, 2011).
MODELLING THE EFFECTS OF A TIDAL LAGOON ON THE MORPHOLOGY OF SWANSEA BAY, WALES, UK
Authors: Horrillo-Caraballo Jose M. , Fairley Iain , Karunarathna Harshinie , Masters Ian , Reeve Dominic E.
Published: February 2019

The Severn Estuary (west coast of UK) is a highly dynamic environment and thus understanding of sediment transport under both natural and man-made changes is vital to the sustainable use of the coastal area in this region. The area is likely to be the site of the worldâ€™s first tidal energy lagoon. The construction and operation of the lagoon will result in some localised changes to hydrodynamic processes, leading to some potential changes in sediment transport and depositional processes at identified receptors within Swansea Bay (Fairley et al., 2014, Fairley et al., 2016, TLSB, 2016). There are some concerns about the possible impacts on the Site of Special Scientific Interest â€“ SSSI (Blackpill and Crymlyn Burrows) and Kenfig Special Area of Conservation â€“ SAC (not shown on figure), located Southeast of the tidal lagoon. A three dimensional hydrodynamics model (DELFT3D) of the Swansea bay area has been set up to investigate the sediment transport dynamics within Swansea Bay and longer term hydrodynamics of bedform features in the area. This project will underpin improved environmental understanding and coastal management in the Swansea Bay region because the models produced will also provide input data for other projects reliant on tide, wave and sediment transport information in the area.
WAVE ATTENUATION AND SEDIMENT TRANSPORT MONITORING OF LIVING SHORELINES IN THE DELAWARE BAY, U.S.
Authors: Walling Katlin , Gaffney Douglas , Katkowski Moses
Published: February 2019

Living shorelines are considered a more natural approach to shoreline stabilization for low-energy coastlines in contrast to traditional â€œhardâ€ shoreline armoring methods (i.e. bulkheads). Living shorelines often vary by design and materials, which are optimized for site-specific coastal and environmental conditions, such as wave climate, tidal range, sunlight exposure, etc.; however, the core benefits of all engineered living shorelines are typically the same: reduce shoreline erosion; enhance marine, intertidal, or backshore habitat; and increase resiliency to storm surge and/or sea level rise. While the general benefits of living shorelines are well known, project-specific technical data (i.e. percent of wave energy attenuation, shoreline advancement rates) documenting the effectiveness of living shorelines is more sparse. Moreover, monitoring equipment and analysis techniques required to capture the fine-detailed technical data can prove to be cost and/or labor intensive.
EFFECT OF NET CROSS-SHORE SAND TRANSPORT ON BEACH PROFILES
Authors: Mallavarapu Sravani , Kobayashi Nobuhisa , Zhu Tingting
Published: February 2019

The concept of an equilibrium beach profile is convenient and widely adopted for long-term simulations of shoreline changes and beach profile evolutions. The equilibrium profile is regarded as a profile with net cross-shore sediment transport rate qn = 0. Kobayashi et al. (2008) proposed formulas for offshore suspended sediment transport rate qs and onshore bedload transport rate qb and derived the equilibrium profile equation of Dean (1991) for the case of qn = (qs+ qb) = 0. Their model is extended to equilibrium profiles with net offshore (qn0) sediment transport rates. The equilibrium profile with qn=0 is modified by periodic beach nourishment (qn0). The extended model predicts the degree and location of profile modifications as a function of qn and it can be used to improve beach nourishment design and devise barrier beach overwash countermeasures.