bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
BEACH PROFILE EVOLUTION IN FRONT OF STORM SEAWALLS: A PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL STUDY
Authors: Saponieri Alessandra , Di Risio Marcello , Pasquali Davide , Valentini Nico , Aristodemo Francesco , Tripepi Giuseppe , Celli Daniele , Streicher Maximilian , Damiani Leonardo
Published: February 2019

Large-scale physical experiments (Froude scale, 1:4.3) were performed at the new Delta Flume in 2017, aimed at investigating wave impacts on a vertical wall placed on the top of a dike in a mild slope shallow foreshore. Experiments also allowed to investigate the morphological evolution of the sandy foreshore, the scour at the dike toe and its development under irregular and bi-chromatic wave conditions. Both experimental results and numerical study performed to design the experiments are reported. Moreover, preliminary validation of the model to investigate the scour within a wider range of wave conditions and foreshore slopes is illustrated.
DEVELOPMENT OF A STORM EROSION CLIMATOLOGY FOR THE NEW JERSEY COAST, US
Authors: Lemke Laura , Miller Jon K.
Published: February 2019

In this study, the Storm Erosion Index (SEI), developed by Miller and Livermont (2008), is used to reevaluate storms that have impacted New Jersey over the past several decades based on their erosion potential. This index considers all three drivers of coastal erosion including wave height, water level, and storm duration and has been shown to more closely correlated to observed erosion than more traditional indices (Miller and Livermont 2008). Here, storms are assessed at thirteen shoreline segments defined along the Atlantic coast of New Jersey. When reevaluated with SEI, the top three storms across all shoreline segments are the December 1992 norâ€™easter, the Veteranâ€™s Day Storm in November 2009, and Hurricane Sandy in October 2012. In general, the December 1992 norâ€™easter and Hurricane Sandy are more highly ranked in the northern half of the state with Hurricane Sandy having a maximum return period of 38 years. The Veteranâ€™s Day Storm on the other hand is more highly ranked in the southern half of the state having a maximum return period of 42 years. A closer look at these three storms illustrates the importance of each of the three drivers of coastal erosion in determining erosion potential. A particular emphasis is placed on storm duration which explains why the Veteranâ€™s Day Storm (td = ~90 hours) outranks Hurricane Sandy (td = ~60 hours) in the southern portion of the state. The assessment performed in this study produces a record of historical storms ranked by SEI that future storms can be compared to. This allows for an understanding of the erosion potential of future storms in the context of what has occurred previously.
A METHOD TO SYSTEMATICALLY CLASSIFY DESIGN CHARACTERISTICS OF SAND NOURISHMENTS
Authors: Gijsman Rik , Visscher Jan , Schlurmann Torsten
Published: February 2019

The decades of collected monitoring data of coastal profiles in combination with the decades of experience with sand nourishments in the Wadden Sea, forms an invaluable basis to study the inter-site efficiency of sand nourishment design. However, a systematic data-driven study of this type needs to be applicable for the inter-site varying (i) nourishment design strategies, (ii) coastal monitoring data sets and (iii) natural morphodynamics of the shorelines, respectively. This study introduces a four-step method able to systematically classify the influence of individual nourishment design parameters on the nourishment lifetime (i.e. the period of influence on the natural dynamics of a coastal profile). With the non-linear and adaptive principle component analysis (PCA) method, nourishment lifetimes of beach- and shoreface nourishments are extracted from data sets that describe different natural morphodynamics. Based on an application of the method to a limited number of nourishments placed in two coastal areas in the Netherlands (Ameland) and Germany (Sylt), increasing nourishment concentration, alongshore nourishment length and absolute nourishment peak elevation seem to increase the lifetime of beach- and shoreface nourishments. Nourishment lifetimes at profile more downstream seem to decrease for beach nourishments, but increase for shoreface nourishments. The method supports inclusion of additional coastal profiles and parameters related to the nourishment design, natural morphodynamics of the coastal profile and hydrodynamic forcing, to quantify nourishment design influences on nourishment lifetimes at different locations.
BLACK SWANS AND RISK - ASSESSING CONSEQUENCES OF EXTREME EVENTS FOR THE GERMAN BIGHT
Authors: Ulm Marius , Arns Arne , Jensen JÃ¼rgen
Published: February 2019

Westerly and north-westerly storms regularly hit the German North Sea coast causing surges of several meters at the dikes. But extreme events like cyclone Xaver in 2013 are not the largest physically possible events on record. Dangendorf et al. (2016) show that the individual components of the total water level (i.e. mean sea level, surge, and tide) were not at their observed maximum during Xaver. The research project â€œEXTREMENESSâ€ was initiated to examine the meteorological potential of storms in the German Bight and to assess the consequences of extremely large and rare but physically possible storm surge events, so called â€œblack swansâ€. Our project partners, the German Meteorological Office, the German Federal Waterways Engineering and Research Institute, and Helmholtz-Zentrum Geesthacht, evaluate possible meteorological and resulting hydraulic boundary conditions including regionally projected sea level rise scenarios which we use to simulate inundations in the study area around Emden (Lower Saxony, Germany) using a two-dimensional hydrodynamic numerical (2D-HN) model. Large parts of the region are situated below mean sea level and drained using tide gates and pumping stations. Therefore the area is highly vulnerable to dike failures and loads exceeding the design levels of defense structures. Combining inundation scenarios with exceeding probabilities and dike failure probabilities will yield risk maps, showing the most vulnerable dike sections and pointing out areas that need particular attention in maintenance.
MAPPING SHIP TRAFFIC IN NARROW CHANNELS WITH BENDS USING AUTOMATIC IDENTIFICATION SYSTEM (AIS) DATA
Authors: Oskamp Jeffrey A. , Smith Eric D.
Published: February 2019

Coastal, port, and waterway projects often require an understanding of the waterborne traffic in the site vicinity. Knowledge of what types of vessels transit near a project site, along with the vessel speeds and typical transit times/paths, can be valuable information to an engineer. Often the best available information for vessel traffic can be obtained from Automatic Identification System (AIS) data. AIS data includes information about the vessel type, position, course, and speed (IMO, 2014). Historic AIS data is available from a variety of free and commercial sources. Inside the United States, a large quantity of AIS data is available freely to the public from the United Statesâ€™ Coast Guard datasets. AIS data can be summarized in a variety of tabular and graphic formats. For spatial planning and visualization, an intuitive format for communicating vessel traffic to non-technical audiences is a vessel density map. Straightforward methods are available (BOEM/NOAA, 2015) for producing vessel density maps in relatively open water and away from sharp channel bends. This paper addresses challenges with preparing vessel maps in areas with narrow channels and around bends.
BEACH RESTORATION IN THE TARRAGONA COAST (SPAIN); SAND MANAGEMENT DURING THE LAST 25 YEARS AND FUTURE PLANS
Authors: Galofré Jordi , Jiménez José A. , Valdemoro Herminia I.
Published: February 2019

Erosion is the dominant behavior along worldwide coastlines. Although many factors can locally influence processes governing coastline evolution some common factors can be identified. Thus, the sediment budget has largely been modified in most of developed coasts, with river sand supplies being drastically reduced due to human influence in drainage basins. On the other hand, coastal segmentation due to infrastructures alters sediment transport patterns and induces and/or accelerates coastline erosion. Within this general context, artificial nourishment has been one of the most used coastal engineering measure by mimicking the role played by river sediment supplies to compensate local erosion problems. Since nourishment is not acting on the origin of the problems, erosive processes will continue to control shoreline evolution. Thus, the evolution of beach fills will be controlled by the sediment budget within the coastal cell where works have been done and, this will determine required sediment volumes to maintain the future shoreline. Within this context, we present data on long-term (25 years) shoreline evolution and nourishment operations in the Tarragona coast (Spain, NW Mediterranean). The main aim of the work is to analyze the coastal stability and the effects of beach fills along the coast taking into account the type of the coastal cell where works have been implemented. Once this has been evaluated, the sustainability of an adaptation strategy based on the use of this protection measure to cope with climate change induced scenarios is also assessed to propose a long- term sediment management plan.
PROGRESSION OF BARRIER ISLAND RESTORATION IN LOUISIANA
Authors: Lanclos Jason , Borne Brett , Poff Michael
Published: February 2019

Over the last several decades restoration efforts in coastal Louisiana have evolved from efforts known mostly to State and Parish officials and academic community to national recognition in the wake of Hurricanes Katrina and Rita and the Deepwater Horizon Oil Spill. Consolidated efforts of coastal restoration developed in the early years through the Coastal Wetlands Planning, Protection, and Restoration Act (CWPPRA). Additional funding and organizational efforts include State funding; the Coastal Impact Assessment Program (CIAP); and most recently from programs resulting from Deepwater Horizon Oil Spill penalties.
CHALLENGES AND STRATEGIES FOR ECOSYSTEM RESTORATION OF A SINKING DELTA PLAIN
Authors: Khalil Syed , Raynie Richard
Published: February 2019

Coastal erosion is a major global problem and is most acutely felt along developed coastal areas where coastal communities and infrastructures are threatened by storm surge flooding. This situation gets compounded to a bigger challenge around most of delta plains which are rapidly subsiding. The degree and magnitude of challenges associated with erosion and submergence along muddy deltaic coasts is intricately related to population density. It is estimated that about 500 million people in the world live on river deltas (Syvitski et al., 2009). Coastal populations and their associated industries/economies (oil & gas, fisheries, port and commerce etc.) are thus threatened by rapid degradation of the deltaic landscapes. This situation is further complicated by sea level rise and high-energy events such as hurricanes (cyclones, typhoons).
FUZZY COGNITIVE MAPPING: PROPOSED ASSESSMENT FRAMEWORK FOR COASTAL RISK MANAGEMENT PROJECT PROCESSES
Authors: Robichaux Laura , Owen Susan , Kench Paul
Published: February 2019

As coastal development, understanding of coastal hazards and engineering capability have increased over the past century, it has become standard practice to implement risk reduction strategies to mitigate impacts of inundation, flooding and erosion on coastal communities. The implementation process of coastal risk management projects can be simplified to three phases: i) conceptualization, ii) engagement, and iii) execution with project termination possible at any stage. Each phase is affected by both actors and actants (non-human influencers). To date, there have been few attempts to robustly analyze and understand the technical, institutional, financial, social and temporal complexities of these risk management processes. Consequently critical factors that underpin implementation or abandonment of these projects are poorly resolved. For the purposes of this research, the ratio of projects that are constructed or policies which are enacted as compared to those that are abandoned prior to implementation is termed the â€œimplementation gapâ€ (Lowry, 1985). The implementation gap in coastal risk management in Germany over the past 30 years is approximately 50% (Becker, Huitema, & Aerts, 2015). Furthermore, the implementation gap for policy-centric retreat or adaptation projects is wider than for conventional defense (Gibbs, 2016; Heffernan, 2012). While singular case study approaches aid in understanding dynamics of a particular project and location, coastal risk management and climate change literature have both called for creation of a robust framework to examine decision making processes across several case studies to better understand the â€œadaptation deficitâ€ in climate change adaptation or the â€œimplementation gapâ€ in coastal risk management (Eisenack, et al., 2014; Dow, et al., 2013). Here we summarize the methods undertaken to develop and test a framework reliant on fuzzy cognitive mapping that will allow comparison of the varied social, financial, and institutional influences driving project outcomes in the conceptual design, engagement, and execution phases of coastal risk management implementation. Testing of this framework will be performed with approximately 25 case studies in Hawkeâ€™s Bay, New Zealand and Terrebonne Parish, United States.
PROJECTION OF FUTURE STORM SURGES AROUND THE KOREAN PENINSULA BASED ON LARGE ENSEMBLE CLIMATE EXPERIMENTS
Authors: Yang Jung-A , Kim Sooyoul , Mase Hajime , Mori Nobuhito
Published: February 2019

Projection of future storm surge height (SSH) based on results of ensemble climate experiments performed using a general climate model (hereafter, GCM) under future climate conditions is ready to start at the regional scale for disaster prevention against storm surge. However, there are limitation to estimate future SSHs with particular return periods which required in coastal structure design because of the lack of sample numbers of storm surge events on local scale. To obtain a large number of samples in localized catastrophic events, Mizuta et al. (2016) carried out an unprecedentedly large ensemble of climate simulations using a high-resolution global climate model over 5000 years. In this study, spatial pattern of storm surge values around the Korean Peninsula (hereafter, the KP) with 100-years return period are assessed based on the large ensemble experiments.
REAL TIME COASTAL MONITORING FOR EFFECTIVE MANAGEMENT OF DUBAI COAST
Authors: Juma Ibrahim Mohammad , AlHarmoudi Alya Abdulrahim , Hokal Noora Mohammed , Kizhisseri Abdulla Sharief
Published: February 2019

The Dubai coastal zone is defined as a land mass stretching from the Abu Dhabi border in the south to Al Mamzar lagoon in the north, from approximately +4 m DMD (Dubai Municipality Datum) onshore to 10 nautical miles offshore. In its natural state this approximately 70km long coastline consists primarily of long sandy beaches backed by low level dunes and ridges. However, recent infra-structural developments related to trade, tourism and real estate have resulted in significant development within the Dubai coastal zone. These developments have interfered with the natural coastal processes of waves, tidal currents and sediment transport. To understand the dynamics of coastal processes Coastal Zone & Waterways Management Section (CWMS) of Dubai Municipality (DM) developed an advanced coastal real-time monitoring system for coastal management and future planning. This paper provides an overview of the coastal monitoring programme and how these data are used in managing the coastal zone and decision making.
CASE STUDY ON DESIGNING ADAPTATION MEASURES FOR STORM SURGE DISASTERS ALONG INNERMOST COAST OF ARIAKE SEA, JAPAN
Authors: Ide Yoshihiko , Hashimoto Noriaki , Yamashiro Masaru , Kodama Mitsuyoshi
Published: February 2019

Based on the Japanese governmental adaptation plan against the influence of climate change, the local governments promptly have to design such measures. We focused on the vulnerability of storm surge disasters along the innermost coast, Saga Plain, of the Ariake Sea (Fig.1a) since most of the area is below sea level. We present our experiences of the attempts to design adaptation measures from various approaches as collaborative research with members of Saga Prefecture. Figure 1b shows a meeting with members of the prefecture.
A PROBABILISTIC MODEL OF REGIONAL-SCALE RESPONSE TO EXTREME STORM EVENTS
Authors: Beuzen Tomas , Splinter Kristen D. , Turner Ian L. , Harley Mitchell D. , Marshall Lucy A. , Palmsten Margaret L. , Stockdon Hilary F. , Plant Nathaniel G.
Published: February 2019

Predicting beach erosion caused by extreme storms remains a key focus of the coastal engineering community, having important implications for both emergency and long-term coastal management and planning. In June 2016, an extra-tropical cyclone impacted the east coast of Australia, resulting in the largest erosion event recorded in this region for several decades. High-resolution data collected during this event included immediate pre and post-storm airborne LIDAR measurements of the subaerial beach along 400 km of coastline, as well as detailed modeling of inshore wave conditions. This unprecedented data set presents a unique opportunity to explore key drivers of the observed local and regional variability in the response of beaches to extreme storm events.
LIVING BREAKWATERS: DESIGNING FOR RESILIENCY
Authors: Tschirky Paul , Brashear Pippa , Sella Ido , Manson Todd
Published: February 2019

In the aftermath of Hurricane Sandy, the Rebuild by Design competition was born to encourage cross-disciplinary collaboration and resilience planning in coastal and flood protection design. The Living Breakwaters project is a layered resilience approach to promote risk reduction, enhance ecosystems, and foster social resilience. Following the competition, the project was awarded $60 million by HUD (US Department of Housing and Urban Development) in June 2013. It is currently in final design and permitting with construction anticipated to begin the summer of 2019. The Living Breakwaters Project is a unique design of an offshore breakwater system to promote coastal resilience in Tottenville, Staten Island, New York. It combines physical risk reduction through wave attenuation and erosion prevention functions with ecological enhancement and habitat creation as an integrated part of the design. This paper explores the modeling and design of these unique coastal engineering and ecological structures.
REAL TIME VESSEL SIMULATION INCORPORATING COASTAL NUMERICAL MODELING
Authors: Smith Eric D. , Oskamp Jeffrey A.
Published: February 2019

Real time vessel simulation has become an integral part of design of navigation channels, harbor geometries, and marine terminals. Generalized guidance for channel width, bend radii, and turning basin dimensions is documented in numerous sources (e.g. PIANC, ASCE) based on typical environmental parameters of current magnitude, wind speed, and wave height. Common to all the guidance is to confirm and finalize geometry and operability based on vessel simulation studies. A real time vessel simulator incorporates various data to represent the response of a vessel to helm controls of the pilot such as water depth, currents, waves, winds, drag, rudder force, and tug boat power. A key component of the simulation is that the computations occur in real time such that the pilot does not notice any lag due to computer processing. As such the fidelity of environmental input to the simulation has often been limited to avoid congestion. Furthermore, vessel simulation software was designed for quick modification in training simulations with simple parameters to apply the conditions uniformly over the model domain. As a result, the implementation of metocean conditions in real time simulation is often truncated based on a simple characterization of sea state and currents to a snap shot of time, represented by a static current field representing peak and ebb or flood tide or by simple representative vectors. However, there are aspects of assessing channel design which benefit from simulating the changing of metocean conditions simultaneously with vessel maneuvering. With improving processing power of simulators, it is possible to incorporate time-varying numerical modeling results directly with fine resolution. This paper presents applications of coastal engineering tools and techniques for real time vessel simulation in conjunction with high resolution coastal hydrodynamic modeling for waterway design.
BARBADOS COASTAL RISK ASSESSMENT AND MANAGEMENT PROGRAMME
Authors: MacIntosh Kevin , Williamson Derek , Armstrong Matthew , Brewster Leo , Arthur Ricardo
Published: February 2019

Monitoring of coastal environments is critical to understanding the responses of the natural environment to human interventions. The ability to definitively attribute impacts to a development versus those which are part of the natural variation of a dynamic system is a valuable tool to understanding the successes and failures of coastal zone management planning. The Coastal Zone Management Unit of the Government of Barbados (CZMU) undertook the Coastal Risk Assessment and Management (CRMP) project to define the baseline conditions and risks for the entire coastline of Barbados in order to have this comprehensive database upon which to base future decisions and coastal planning. This paper will focus on three of the nine baseline studies and the unique approaches used, and challenges encountered, along the way.
PORT PERFORMANCE PREDICTION THROUGH MARITIME OPERATIONS SIMULATION
Authors: Benedicto MÂª Izaskun , GarcÃ­a Morales Rafael M. , Marino Javier , De los Santos Francisco
Published: February 2019

In recent decades, international shipping trade has grown considerably and ports have been extended in order to satisfy the demands of new ships and cargo. Port management has become a difficult task due to the high number of simultaneous operations in ports and the random nature of the agents that are involved in port operations (climate agents, ship arrivals). This makes necessary an aid-decision making tool that reproduces maritime operations and estimates the uncertainty of the port performance. In this work, the software, based on the methodologies proposed in Benedicto et al (2013) and GarcÃ­a Morales et al (2015), is presented. The software has a user-friendly interface, reproduces port operations for a given case and provides a set of indicators that measure the performance of the simulated case, like waiting times or occupancy of berths and harbor services. Port performance is characterized from a statistical point of view. Software validation, with Algeciras Port (Spain) as pilot port, is also presented.
POST-HURRICANE COASTAL MAPPING AND CHANGE ANALYSIS: NATIONAL COASTAL MAPPING PROGRAM
Authors: Eisemann Eve , Dunkin Lauren , Hartman Michael , Wozencraft Jennifer
Published: February 2019

Hurricane and other extreme storm impacts pose one of the greatest threats to coastal environments, populations, and infrastructure. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) National Coastal Mapping Program (NCMP), executed by the Joint Airborne Lidar Bathymetry Technical Center of Expertise (JALBTCX), collects and processes high resolution aerial imagery and lidar data that provide regional datasets to support assessments of coastal change. The NCMP surveying methods and data products are invaluable tools for coastal management and have the potential to produce rapid-response data following extreme storm impacts. Emergency post-storm deployment of this system was used following Hurricane Matthewâ€™s impact in October 2016 where the NCMP surveyed from Key Biscayne, FL to the VA/MD border between October 27th and December 2nd, collecting topographic and bathymetric lidar along the coast in a 1.5 km swath. Approximately one year later, Hurricane Irma impacted the Florida east and west coast in September 2017. The NCMP surveyed the entire Florida east coast, including the Keys, in addition to Collier County on the West Coast of Florida from September 22 to October 25.
IMPACT ASSESSMENT OF CLIMATE CHANGE ON COASTAL HAZARDS DUE TO WINTER CYCLONE AROUND JAPAN USING LARGE ENSEMBLE DATABASE
Authors: Ninomiya Junichi , Taka Yuya , Mori Nobuhito
Published: February 2019

IPCC AR5 reported that the extreme events like tropical cyclone, heavy rainfall and so on will be strengthen. The winter cyclone is one of the cause of coastal hazard. The winter cyclone is defined as the extratropical depression with rapid development. It causes high wave and storm surge from winter to spring, and Japan sometimes have casualties and economical loss. Some researches reported that the number of winter cyclone tend to increase. Because its tendency seems to go on, future change estimation of winter cyclone activity is important for disaster reduction. Understanding of winter cyclone is developing. For example, Yoshida and Asuma showed that the winter cyclones are classified by their track and the development of winter cyclone is related to lateral heat flux. On the other hand, almost of all researches of impact assessment on coastal hazard focus on the tropical cyclone. Mori et al. showed the maximum potential storm surge in Japan using maximum potential intensity of tropical cyclone and GCM outputs, and large storm surge will increase. Shimura et al. showed that extreme wave caused by the tropical cyclone will develop at offshore region of east from Japan. This research aims to reveal stochastic future change of winter cyclone using the database for policy decision making for future climate change (after here, d4PDF) which is huge ensemble dataset of present- and futureclimate. Then, the risk of coastal hazard will be evaluate.
HIGH-RESOLUTION TSUNAMI-BEDLOAD COUPLED COMPUTATION IN AMR ENVIRONMENT
Authors: Watanabe Yasunori , Mitobe Yuta , Tanaka Hitoshi , Watanabe Kazuya
Published: February 2019

Conventional tsunami computations on coarser grids have employed Manningâ€™s friction coefficients of subgrid equivalent roughness for buildings, vegetation and public facilities (roads, dikes and so on), depending on land-use at the grid location. This equivalent roughness macroscopically models to integrate all effects of resistances against the flow within the computational cells; that is, drag force and pressure reduction behind structures in addition to wall roughness defined in turbulent boundary layer theory. Recently high-resolution land elevation data (2-m resolution), measured by an aerial laser profiler, has been used for computing local inundation of tsunami flood. Since the high-resolution data resolves major buildings and facilities, the mechanical contributions of the structures, such as drag and pressure reduction, are included in the computed result. In this case, conventional equivalent friction may be unacceptable to use.
TURBULENCE-RESOLVING NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF FINE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT OVER BEDFORMS
Authors: Yue Liangyi , Cheng Zhen , Hsu Tian-Jian , Horner-Devine Alexander R. , Manning Andrew J.
Published: February 2019

Wave-supported gravity currents in turbulent wave bottom boundary layer (WBBL) are one of the most important processes causing cross-continental shelf sediment transport. The high numerical accuracy 3D numerical model has been used to investigate the fine sediment transport in the WBBL and several different transport modes have been found due to sedimentinduced density stratification (Ozdemir et al., 2010; Cheng et al., 2015). However, laboratory experiments suggest the presence of a small amount of sand fraction and the formation of ripple bed alter the structure of WBBL significantly (Hooshmand, et al., 2015). The purpose of this study is to understand the interplay of fine sand, bedforms, and sediment-induced density stratification in determining the transport modes of fine sediments in WBBL through turbulence-resolving numerical simulations.
NUMERICAL INVESTIGATIONS OF THE MECHANISMS ASSOCIATED WITH THE ONSHORE RIPPLE MIGRATION
Authors: Cheng Zhen , Traykovski Peter
Published: February 2019

Quantification of cross-shore sediment transport is one of most intriguing challenges in shoreline and coastal geomorphology. During the past decades, several key mechanisms associated with onshore/offshore sediment transport have been identified, such as wave skewness/asymmetry, progressive wave streaming and undertow current. However, applying these mechanisms to the migration of wave formed bedforms (ripples) is not straightforward. For example, recent field observations off Fire Island, NY showed that ripples migrated onshore even during periods of offshore directed wave skewness, which is contradictory to the prediction of empirical sediment transport formulations. The physical processes driving ripple vortex formation, ejection and boundary layer streaming associated with rippled bed can further complicate the bedload/suspended load sediment transport over ripples. To fully understand these mechanisms, a comprehensive model that can resolve the ripple dynamics and interactions between free surface wave and rippled bed is examined.
NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF BERM AND DUNE EROSION DUE TO WAVE OVERTOPPING AND SEDIMENT OVERWASH USING OPENFOAM
Authors: Karagiannis Nikolaos , Karambas Theophanis , Koutitas Christopher
Published: February 2019

The present work follows authorsâ€™ previous works, published and presented at ICCE 2016 and Coastal Dynamics 2017 conferences (Karagiannis et al. 2016, 2017) and concerns the numerical simulation of berm and dune cross-shore profile evolution due to wave overtopping and sediment overwash through an innovative repetitive approach of coupling a hydrodynamic model, synthesized on the OpenFoam platform with a morphodynamic one, whose origin code is developed in FORTRAN by the authors. The hydrodynamic model is used for the wave propagation, while the morphodynamic one gets the results of the first model and yields the new cross-shore seabed formation. The above process is repeated until the equilibrium profile is achieved.
SEA-LEVEL EFFECT ON ANNUAL CYCLIC BEACH MORPHOLOGY IN SWASH ZONE AT HASAKI COAST
Authors: Banno Masayuki , Kuriyama Yoshiaki
Published: February 2019

depend on the accurate knowledge of the beach response to sea level regime on multi-time scale. For the long-term beach response, Bruun (1962) suggested that the equilibrium beach profile would move to new equilibrium profile in response to a rising sea level. In this concept called as Bruun rule, the upper part of the beach profile is eroded due to the sea level rise, resulting in the shoreline retreat. It is widely used for the future shoreline prediction. However, the Bruun rule predicts just only the final beach state with a constant wave impinging for an infinite period after sea level rise. On the other hand, simultaneous function of wave and sea level is more important on interannual to decadal-scale beach response. El niÃ±o in 2015 and 2016 increased wave energy and sea level, corresponding to large beach erosion across the US west coast (Barnard et al., 2017). Sea level influences the response sensitivity to the wave forcing as a subordinate factor on the morphological change. High water level anomalies made the beach more eroded even if the wave condition was equal. Beach morphology in the swash zone often changes on a 1-year cycle due to seasonal wave conditions. The effect of sea level on the annual cyclic beach morphology in swash zone is still unclear because long-term beach observation data required for the analysis are difficult to obtain. In this study, we investigated the simultaneous effects of the wave and sea level on annual cyclic beach morphology in the swash zone with spectrum analysis for 25-year Hasaki beach observation data.
MEGA-NOURISHMENTS AND AEOLIAN DEVELOPMENTS: LESSONS LEARNED SIX YEARS INTO THE SANDMOTOR PILOT PROJECT
Authors: Wijnberg Kathelijne , Limpens Juul , Nolet Corjan , Van Puijenbroek Marinka , Riksen Michel , Williams Isaac
Published: February 2019

In 2011 a multifunctional peninsula-shaped nourishment project (the Sandmotor) was implemented on the West coast of the Netherlands. Its objectives included an increase in sediment supply towards the dunes to maintain their function as a flood defense on the longterm as well as the development of (temporary) new dune area for nature and recreational purposes. In this contribution we will present an overview of the observed developments related to aeolian processes at the Sandmotor in the first six years after implementation of the nourishment, as well as discuss the relation of these developments to specific characteristics of the design and management of the Sandmotor.
SEASONAL BEACH VARIABILITY ON A SEA-BREEZE DOMINATED BEACH
Authors: MedellÃ­n Gabriela , Torres-Freyermuth Alec
Published: February 2019

The knowledge of seasonal beach variability is fundamental to evaluate the beach resistance and resilience to either natural or anthropogenic perturbations. Therefore, beach monitoring programs are required to understand seasonal and long-term beach changes (e.g., Harley et al., 2010). Despite their importance, beach monitoring programs are scarce in Mexico. Thus, this study aims to analyze the inter-annual and intra-annual variability in the vicinity of coastal structures on a sea breeze dominated beach by means of high-spatial and temporal resolution beach surveys.
LONG-TERM SHORELINE POSITION MONITORING AND PREDICTION, PEA ISLAND, NC
Authors: Sciaudone Elizabeth , Montoya Liliana Velasquez , Overton Margery , Smyre Elizabeth
Published: February 2019

Pea Island is a barrier island located on the Outer Banks of North Carolina, with Oregon Inlet to the north and Hatteras Island to the south. The northern end of the island is stabilized by a terminal groin, constructed between fall of 1989 and spring of 1991. Since 1990, approximately 10 km of shoreline downdrift (south) of the inlet has been monitored via aerial orthophotography every two months. In 2010, the monitoring area was expanded to approximately 21 km downdrift of the inlet. Shoreline position was historically drawn, and later digitized, as the visible wet-dry line on the orthophotos. These data, as well as available historical shoreline position information, were used to develop a robust shoreline position database to monitor changes and predict future shoreline behavior. Predictions of shoreline positions are of interest to coastal managers and state transportation authorities, whose obligation to maintain a transportation corridor along the barrier island necessitates careful planning. The aim of the present study is to evaluate the accuracy of shoreline forecasts made based on linear regression with a prediction interval, and their applicability to coastal planning and management.
CHANNEL SEDIMENTATION CAUSING BY GROUPING WAVES AND WIND WAVES AT THE FISHING PORT, JAPAN
Authors: Horie Takehito , Kamo Takashi , Nozaka Yasuji , Tanaka Hitoshi
Published: February 2019

Most of fishing ports in Hokkaido, Japan are located in the surf zone on the sandy beach. As a result, channel sedimentation has become a serious problem in many fishing ports. As an example, when planning a coastal structure to control littoral drift and nearshore current, annual maximum wave heights (wind waves) is used as the external forces condition in many cases. However, the effect as expected is not obtained on channel sedimentation at fishing ports in Hokkaido. To solve such a problem, it is necessary to understand the relationships between channel sedimentation and external force, and be able to reveal the developmental process of channel sedimentation. Then, field observation and theoretical approach (wave-to-wave analysis, spectral analysis, EOF analysis, et al) become important tools.
CROSS-SHORE VARIATIONS IN SEDIMENT STRENGTH AT A SANDY BEACH
Authors: Reeve Bridgit , Stark Nina , Mewis Peter
Published: February 2019

The potential for erosion and accretion of coastal sediments is governed by local hydrodynamics and sediment characteristics. These factors are highly spatially and temporally variable and strongly interact in the surf zone. It is known that for any change in the wave load, the system quickly seeks and adopts a new state of equilibrium. It follows that the understanding of the interactions between hydrodynamics and sediment properties is crucial for beach engineering. Particularly, there seems to be a lack of knowledge regarding the role of geotechnical sediment properties. The research goal of this study is to characterize the cross-shore variation of sediment strength across a sandy, erosive beach on the island of Sylt, Germany.
NORTH JETTY COASTLINE EVOLUTION AND SHORELINE ENGINEERING, GRAYS HARBOR, WASHINGTON
Authors: Porter Aaron , Shepsis Vladimir , Kaminsky George , Michalsen David
Published: February 2019

This study was initiated by the Port of Grays Harbor and the City of Ocean Shores, WA to address ongoing shoreline erosion processes, and sedimentation at the Grays Harbor Federal Navigation Channel. The North Jetty at the entrance to Grays Harbor Estuary, WA was constructed at the beginning of last century (1907) and resulted in major regional changes to the coastline. During the first 40 years post-construction of the jetty, approximately ten miles of sandy beach shoreline, two miles wide north of the jetty, was created by natural sediment transport processes. The accreted land was the base for the creation of the City of Ocean Shores. Since that time the shoreline has been periodically altered by extreme erosion events.
FORM DRAG AND EQUIVALENT SAND-GRAIN ROUGHNESS FOR WAVE-GENERATED SAND RIPPLES
Authors: Yuan Jing , Wang Dongxu
Published: February 2019

Moderate shoaling waves usually generate some small-scale bottom bedforms, i.e. sand ripples, which are 1-10cm tall and 10-100cm long. Wave-induced boundary layer flows over sand ripples are characterized by coherent vortices, which are alternatively generated on both sizes of ripples under the oscillatory free-stream motion. This process leads to a form drag, which significantly increases the local flow resistance. A large equivalent sand-grain roughness scaled with ripple dimension is therefore adopted in coastal models to account for ripple presences. Very few quantitative experimental results on this topic are available in the literature, so this study is aimed at filling this gap.
LONG-TERM BAR DYNAMICS USING SATELLITE IMAGERY: A CASE STUDY AT ANMOK BEACH, SOUTH KOREA
Authors: Athanasiou Panagiotis , De Boer Wiebe , Tonnon Pieter Koen , Yoo Jeseon , De Schipper Matthieu , De Vries Sierd , Ranasinghe Roshanka , Reniers Ad
Published: February 2019

Nearshore sandbar patterns can affect the hydrodynamics and, as a result, the beach morphodynamics in the nearshore zone. Hence, spatial and temporal variability in the sandbars can influence beach accretion and erosion. Understanding the variability of the sandbar system can therefore be crucial for informed coastal zone management. So far, the methods to study sandbar dynamics mainly include datasets of video observations or occasional bathymetric surveys. However, at most locations around the world, these types of data are not or only scarcely available. In this paper we present an alternative method to analyze long-term sandbar variability by means of freely available satellite imagery. These images are globally available since the 1980â€™s and, thus, have the potential to be applicable at any location in the world. Here, we will illustrate the methodology by means of a case study at Anmok beach at the South Korean East coast.
BEACH RESPONSE TO EXPOSED RIVERINE SEDIMENT AND BEACH NOURISHMENT
Authors: Huang Yu-Qi , Lin Jing-Hua , Yang Ray-Yeng , Chen Yang-Yih , Chen Jia-Lin Julie
Published: February 2019

Studying the process of riverine sediment at mouths and continental shelves is a critical subject for many engineering applications, such as dredging, navigation, dispersal and remobilization of contaminants. Sediment deposits also determine seabed properties, coastal geomorphology, and the health of coastal habitat/ecology. During extreme conditions, episodic river discharge triggered by large rainfall due to tropical cyclones may contribute significant amount of riverine sediment into the ocean. In the past decade, evidence of severe seabed erosion (up to 1m/year) along the sandy coast of Yunlin County has raised concerns regarding the sustainability of coastal structures. The exposed riverine sediment from the Jhuoshuei River is considered as one of major sources for sediment supply in this region. Bottle samples collected from bridge station in the Jhuoshuei River during the passage of tropical cyclones suggest sediment concentration can exceed 40 g/l for the major duration of the storm (Milliman et al. 2007). To mitigate the damage caused by shoreline retreat, 600,000 cubic meters per month of sand has been placed in two specific locations near the offshore industry park. The overarching goal of this study is to clarify the contribution of exposed riverine sediment and beach nourishment to enhance our understanding on the observed sediment transport and morphological evolution.
VIOLENT IN-CHAMBER LOADS IN AN OSCILLATING WATER COLUMN CAISSON
Authors: Pawitan Krisna Adi , Gossling Ben , Allsop William , Bruce Tom
Published: February 2019

In 2009, four of 16 chambers in the Mutriku breakwater-integrated Oscillating Water Column (OWC) were badly damaged by storms, probably due to breaking wave loads, and slam within the chamber. To minimize exposure of future plant to such risks, it is necessary to characterise wave conditions under which such an installation could experience impact loads. This characterisation can be crucial to controling the power-take off resistance to increase the survability of the device during extreme weather. Large scale physical model tests in the Grosse Wellenkanal (GWK) included a video camera installed inside the chamber facing the rear chamber wall. Pressure sensors in the ceiling of the chamber were utilised to quantify the water loads. In-chamber impact pressures of up to 8 ÏgH were recorded on the chamber ceiling, associated with the â€˜sloshingâ€™ observed. The â€œsloshingâ€ phenomenon is not uncommon and should be considered in design processes.
NUMERICAL MODELLING OF SOLITARY AND FOCUSED WAVE FORCES ON COASTAL-BRIDGE DECK
Authors: Moideen Rameeza , Behera Manasa Ranjan , Kamath Arun , Bihs Hans
Published: February 2019

In the recent past, coastal bridges have been subjected to critical damage due to extreme wave attacks during natural calamities like storm surge and tsunami. Various numerical and experimental studies have suggested different empirical equations for wave impact on deck. However, they do not account the velocities of the wave type properly, which requires a detailed investigation to study the impact of extreme waves on decks. Solitary wave assumption is more suitable for shallow water waves, while the focused wave has been used widely to represent extreme waves. The present study aims to investigate the focused wave impact on coastal bridge deck using REEF3D (Bihs et al., 2016).
INDIVIDUAL WAVE EFFECTS ON COASTAL STRUCTURE DAMAGE DURING WINDSTORMS
Authors: Westcott Gregory , Grilli Annette R. , Grilli Stephan , Kirby James T. , Shi Fengyan
Published: February 2019

In hazard assessment studies that evaluate the damage caused to coastal structures by windstorm-generated surge and waves, the standard approach has been to estimate structural loading by applying phase-averaged wave propagation models (e.g., SWAN, STWAVE) and storm surge models (e.g., ADCIRC), coupled or not with each other. Bare-earth â€œDigital Elevation Modelsâ€ (DEMs) have typically been used as a basis for model grid development, with sometimes empirical adjustments being made to beach profiles or dune crest levels to account for storm-induced erosion. In recent work, the latter approach has been improved by including real time morphodynamic changes in simulations, using models such as XBeach (e.g., Schambach 2017; Schambach et al., 2017), which are still based on the wave action conservation equation, including semi-empirical parameterizations of wave breaking and many formulations based on linear wave theory (e.g., phase/group velocity, radiation stresses,â€¦), as well as low-order wave-wave interaction terms. Finally, structural damage has typically been estimated based on empirical damage curves, developed based on field surveys, that use flow depth and controlling wave crest height as inputs (e.g., Grilli et al., 2017). Neglected in this modeling approach, however, are dynamic set-up and runup effects, as well as strongly nonlinear wave interactions that occur near and in the surf and swash zones.
SMALL BUILDING PERFORMANCE IN HURRICANE IKE ON THE BOLIVAR PENINSULA
Authors: Rogers Spencer , Rosul Lauren , Dietrich Casey , Kennedy Andrew , Peterman Matthew
Published: February 2019

Hurricane Ike made landfall on the U.S. Gulf of Mexico coast on September 13, 2008 over the Galveston Bay Entrance in Texas (Edge, 2013). The Bolivar Peninsula is a barrier island/peninsula on the east side of the Entrance that received peak overland storm surge and wave heights in the right front quadrant of the hurricane. Prior to the storm Bolivar had been developed with 6000+ buildings, primarily low-density, single-family houses elevated on piling foundations. Over 2000 buildings were destroyed during the storm.
UPGRADING BREAKWATERS IN RESPONSE TO SEA LEVEL RISE: PRACTICAL INSIGHTS FROM PHYSICAL MODELLING
Authors: Howe Daniel , Cox Ron J
Published: February 2019

Coastal structures in many parts of the world are typically designed for depth-limited breaking wave conditions. With a projected sea level rise of up to 90 cm by 2100 (Church et al., 2013), the design wave height for these structures is expected to increase. Many of these structures will require significant armour upgrades to accommodate these new design conditions (for example, a 25% increase in wave height will require the mass of similar density armour to be doubled).
DESIGN, ENGINEERING AND CONSTRUCTION OF A WAVE WALL FOR NORTHWESTERN UNIVERSITY
Authors: Lira-Pantoja Alejandra , Boshek Margaret
Published: February 2019

Northwestern University sits on prime Lake Michigan real estate in Evanston, Illinois, north of Chicago . Needing to make the most of their landlocked urban campus, the university planned to build a new athletics center on coastal land extending onto a sandy beach. Because the design process occurred after a number of years of low water, architects designed the state-of-the-art building extremely close to the lakeâ€™s ordinary high water mark without understanding the historic dynamics of the lake. With the architectural design already completed, SmithGroupJJRâ€™s coastal engineers were asked to perform a rigorous review of the site and potential wave conditions. They determined that the building would be subject to large wave forces and foundation erosion if left unprotected, and designed a reflecting wave wall integrated into and wrapped around the lakeside of the building.