bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Color Characteristics of Traditional Vegetable Dyeing
Authors: Kashiwagi Kenneth M.
Published: March 2007

Kimonos and other decorational cloths dyed with vegetable extracts are still favored today in this country. Making use of modern chemical knowledge, the author has attempted to show a few characteristic features of the traditional vegetable dyeing.

Many plants contain more than one pigment, each exhibiting different color according to its chemical structure. Nat urally, occurring tannins have a very important role both in the dyeing and in the dyed color. Tannins have shown the greying effect on the dyed color. Thus, the visible color is that of a complex nature. The reasonable color quality, based on the measurements of tristimulus values, has shown that the tannins always decrease the chroma of dyed color, while which do not contain tannin, like flower usually exhibit clear color of high chroma.
Fatty Soil Retention and the Influence of Particulate and Fatty Soils on Yellowing of an Unfinished Dacron/Cotton Blend Fabric
Authors: Rounds Mary ann johnson , Purchase Mary E. , Smith B.F.
Published: March 2007

The retention of individual fatty soils, in both the presence and absence of clay soil, on repeatedly soiled, aged, and washed unfinished Dacron/cotton blend was studied by means of a double-label radioactive tracer analysis. Fatty soil retention was influenced by unsaturation, polarity and chain length, but the presence of clay soil was not a significant factor under the experimental conditions employed.

Fabric yellowing was measured on samples soiled with clay and pairs of fatty soils and on appropriate controls. None of the organic soils caused observable yellowing in the absence of clay. While clay soil alone contributed significantly to residual yellowness, additional yellowing occurred on samples soiled with clay, oleic acid, and triolein. It was hy pothesized that the yellowing behavior observed when clay, oleic acid and triolein were present was due primarily to the embedding of pigmented particulate soil in a polymerized fatty film during the second clay soiling process.
The Impact of Natural Fiber Science on Manmade Fiber Technology1
Authors: Zahn H. , Kusch P. , Müller-Schulte D. , Nissen D. , Rossbach V.
Published: March 2007

Analytical methods are described for the chemical characterization of polyamide and polyester fibers. Their origin from natural fiber chemistry is elucidated.

End-group data (amino, acylated amino, and carboxyl groups), number-average molecular weights and breaking stress values are given for commercial polyamide fibers produced by several manufacturers. Amino groups were deter mined with 1-fluoro-2,4-dinitrobenzene, using a new technique. Besides its specifity, this chemical method allows the differentiation of primary and secondary amino groups and their determination in the presence of each other. A related topic is the detection of heat damage in polyamides. Heat treatment leads to the formation of basic groups, which can be distinguished spectroscopically from amino groups after reaction with 1-fluoro-2,4-dinitrobenzene. As a practical application the elucidation of the damage of a nylon needle felt, used in a paper machine, is described.

Hydrazinolysis was applied for the determination of carboxyl end groups. The use of this new analytical method for polyester studies is described, also its application on several commercial polyethylene terephthalate fibers. Furthermore, hydrazinolysis allows the determination of the amount of 5-sulfo-isophthalic acid in acidic modified fibers. Values ob tained are confirmed by determination of the uptake of a basic dyestuff (methylene blue). The importance of end- group analysis is stressed by its application to the analysis of hydrolytically damaged polyester fibers. The increase in carboxyl groups was determined for steam-treated modified and unmodified polyethylene terephthalate.

Results concerning the analysis and generation of oligomers in polyester are added.
Wool Modification by Activated Vinyl Compounds
Authors: Koenig N.H. , Muir Mary W. , Friedman Mendel
Published: March 2007

Wool has been modified with activated mono- and di-functional vinyl compounds in aqueous, dimethyl sulfoxide, and mixed media. Amino acid and chemical analyses showed that lysine and histidine wool side chains reacted in relative proportions dependent on the specific vinyl compound. Order of reactivity paralleled electronegativity of the activating groups: (1) vinyl sulfone (sulfone group); (2) acrylonitrile (cyano group); (3) tetramethylene diacrylate (ester groups) and N,N'-methylenebisacrylamide (amide groups). Reduced solubility in ammonia after peracetic acid oxidation suggests that some difunctional reagents form new crosslinks. Maximum weight gain was about 5%. Hand and color were good. Tear strength was impaired. Both vinyl sulfone and acrylonitrile greatly retarded the supercontraction of felts by hot dimethyl sulfoxide. Acid dyeing tests accord with some blocking of basic dyeing sites. Cross dyeing is a potential application of the observed dye resistance.
A Generalized Model for Crimp Analysis of Multi-Component Fibers
Authors: Batra Subhash K.
Published: March 2007

The theoretical development of a generalized model to predict the crimp radius of a multi-component fiber has been reported in Part I [1]. The model is based on the linear theory of elasticity and attempts to provide a first-order estimate for multi-component fibers without any restrictions on the number of components or their geometrical arrangement in the cross section. This paper illustrates the application of the formulation in [1] to a bicomponent structure. Within the limitations of the basic assumptions, the influences of dimensionless parameters (geometrical and material) on the crimp radius are investigated in some detail.
Some Functions Involving Fiber Properties for Estimating Yarn Tenacity
Authors: Iyengar R.L.N. , Gupta A.K.
Published: March 2007

Certain functions involving fiber length, fineness, tenacity, and uniformity of length have been developed from scientific considerations for estimating the yarn tenacity of yarns spun under standard processing techniques. The efficiency of these functions in this regard has been compared with that exhibited by the corresponding regression equations involving the fiber properties. It has been found that the efficiency is practically the same in both cases. Hence it is concluded that these simple functions could conveniently be employed for assessing the quality of cotton.
Some Relationships Between Wind Pressures, Forces, and Geometrical Characteristics of Air-Supported Tents
Authors: Olofsson Bertil
Published: March 2007

Calculations of membrane forces in air-supported tents, as the internal pressure and the wind velocity varies, are pre sented. Conditions for stability of a semicircular profile are derived (in good agreement with experiments). Possibili ties of stress-leveling by using "air-foil" profiles are investigated. The membrane force per unit area covered is calcu lated for circular profiles with acute base angle and also elliptic profiles. As the wind velocity increases, the optimal base angle decreases.
Fabric Oil Repellency as Related to the Critical Surface Tension and Stiffness of Coating Material
Authors: Roitman J.N. , Pittman A.G. , Ward W.H.
Published: March 2007

Although a low critical surface tension for wetting ( 15 dynes/cm or less) is necessary for oil repellency, examples of fluoropolymers with low critical surface tensions are cited that are ineffective for making wool textiles oil repellent. In contrast to effective polymers, these have relatively high glass transition temperatures (ahove 25°C) and are therefore more brittle. Scanning electron microscopy of fabrics coated with such ineffective materials supports the idea that such coatings are flawed, fragile, and poorly adherent.
An Electron Spin Resonance Study of the Copper (II) Interaction with Wool-Keratin
Authors: Kokot S. , Feughelman M. , Golding R.M.
Published: March 2007

The uptakes of Cu(II) by wool are interpreted with the help of a kinetic model developed on the basis of a previously suggested reaction scheme. The kinetic model may be used to obtain information about the Cu(II)/wool interaction.
Analysis of Transport Phenomena Associated with Through-Convective Drying of a Textile Material
Authors: Cannon S.L. , Johnson R.F. , Meenaghan G.F.
Published: March 2007

The existing empirical and semi-empirical techniques for predicting drying times for heavy woollen fabrics on perforated drums are applied to the drying of a cotton/polyester fahric in a Fleissner mini RT heat transfer unit. Recourse is also taken to applying the generalized partial differential equations of energy and continuity in order to develop a composite model of the transport phenomena associated with this operation.
The Effect of Dyes on the Flammability of Cotton Fabric. 1
Authors: Segal Leon , Timpa Judy D. , Drake George L.
Published: March 2007

A study has been initiated of the effect of dyes on the flammability of cotton fabric. The initial phase reported here concerns the effects of dyes alone on all-cotton fabric, with representative dyes being selected from the reactive, sulfur, vat, ingrain, direct, and acid classes and from the fluorescent brightening agents. The level of Rammability of the dyed fahrics was measured by the oxygen index technique; thermal degradation in a nitrogen atmosphere was followed by thermogravimetric analysis. Many of the dyes increased oxygen index over that of the undyed fabric. Dyes also markedly influenced the path of thermal degradation.
The Role of Chlorine in Oxidative Antifelting Treatments of Wool
Authors: Makinson K. Rachel
Published: March 2007

Chlorine is considerably more effective than other oxidizing agents in reducing the felting power of wool. Explanations have previously been advanced in terms of either the chemical or the physical effects of the treatments. The two ap proaches can be linked by considering how the different chemical reactions produce modified cuticle cells which have different water-sorptive capacities and, consequently, are softened to different degrees in water.
A New Perspective on Yarn Unevenness: Components and Determinants of General Unevenness
Authors: Zeidman Mishu I. , Suh Moon W. , Batra Subhash K.
Published: March 2007

A simple analysis of the local linear density of a yarn yields an equation of its overall variance, which has three components: variance of the number of fibers per cross section, variance of the mean local fiber fineness, and that of the mean parameter of fiber inclination relative to yam axis. Further mathematical analysis of the component variances reveals a set of determining factors: the sequence of the fiber ends along the yam, the distribution of the fiber length, fiber fineness and its irregularity, the irregularity of the fiber configuration relative to the yam axis, and the blend uniformity along the yarn. To help in this analysis, a representation of the yarn, free of any structural hypothesis, is derived from the way the yam emerges from a ring spinning process: a superposition of elementary strips, each resulting from an initial sliver. This represen tation demonstrates that inverse proportionality between the squared CV of the yarn and its mean number of fibers in cross section holds for any yarn, including those idealized by Poissonian or other similar models.
Measuring and Interpreting Fabric Low Stress Mechanical and Surface Properties
Authors: Mahar T.J. , Wheelwright P. , Dhingra R.C. , Postle R.
Published: March 2007

The concepts of overall handle discussed in Part IV of this series [21] for men's suiting fabrics are explained in this analysis using descriptors called handle attributes. Definitions and English word descriptors are provided for the Japanese primary hand expressions isolated by the Hand Evaluation and Standardisation Committee for these fabric types. Sleekness, fullness, firmness, and drape are isolated as the relatively in dependent descriptors of handle for winter fabrics. Similarly, firmness/hardness, crispness, and fullness also characterize men's suitings. From the results of two inter national studies of handle preferences, judges prefer a sleek, full handle with relatively little stiffness and good drape for winter fabrics. There are strong national preferences for the handle of summer fabrics: there is a common handle assessment for Australian, New Zealand, Indian, U.S., and Hong Kong/Taiwanese panels of judges. There are different, and in some sense opposite, handle preferences for the Japanese and P.R.C. (Chinese) panels, who are mutually consistent. These judges prefer a firm, crisp, hard handle for summer fabrics, while the remaining five national panels exhibit opposite preferences.
A Simplified Model for Fluid Spreading in Composite Web Structures
Authors: Yarlagadda A.P. , Yoganathan Ajit P.
Published: March 2007

It is common practice to use analogous models for solving problems that cannot be solved in their original form. Fluid spreading in composite web structures is difficult to model mathematically using mass transfer equations because of complicated driving forces and energy losses caused by a number of irreversible processes. The problem has been transformed into an analogous three-dimensional transient heat transfer model with varying thermal conductivities and heat capacities, to represent the actual phenomenon of fluid spreading in a composite web. A web structure is considered with varying porosities in the layers and pores with certain preferred orientations. A temporary point source of fluid is considered near the center of the top layer, and the dynamics of fluid spreading are modeled. A clear method of converting the temperature history of the web section into the fluid saturations of the web medium is presented. The results predicted by the model match well with the experimental data available in the literature, indicating its usefulness.
Buckling of Woven Fabrics
Authors: Clapp T.G. , Peng H.
Published: March 2007

The effect of fabric weight is incorporated into a theoretical model based on Gros berg's frictional couple theory for describing the buckling behavior of woven fabrics. Numerical solutions for fabric models with free- and fixed-end conditions are studied using various combinations of weight and friction couple factors. The weight factor is defined as the fabric weight per unit length to bending rigidity times the buckling length cubed. The friction couple factor is defined as the moment required to initiate the deformation in the fabric times the bending length divided by the bending rigidity. Results show that in the initial buckling stage, the buckling force increases as the weight factor increases above the force attributed to the friction couple factor alone. The weight factor and friction couple factor are shown to influence the buckling force linearly, and independently for both end conditions in the initial buckling stage. In the range of large deflection (>60%), increasing the friction couple factor continues to increase the buckling force, but the contribution due to the increment of the weight factor is either negative (free-free ends) or negligible ( fixed-fixed ends).
A Thermoanalytical (DSC) Study of the Effect of Inorganic Salts in Cotton
Authors: Letcher Trevor M. , Lutseke Sazi
Published: March 2007

This work supports a recently reported differential scanning calorimetric (DSC) method for discriminating between washed and unwashed cotton fibers. The discrim inating property is an exotherm found in the DSC curve of unwashed cotton heated in an inert atmosphere, and not in water-washed cotton. The cottons used in this work were grown in five different locations in southern Africa and all gave similar results. In addition, this work identifies an acid phosphate anion as being responsible for the DSC exotherm.
Repellency of Textile Assemblies
Authors: Kawase Tokuzo , Misono Kaori , Fuj Tomiko , Minagawa Motoi
Published: March 2007

In a series of studies on the relation between the wettability of textile assemblies and their structures, we measured apparent equilibrium contact angles ( ϕe) of mono filament nylon and polyester mesh screens to several ethylene glycol derivatives. As a novel measure of wettability of textile assemblies, apparent critical penetration tension ( γcapp) has been defined as the surface tension of a liquid that can just penetrate such assemblies. The γ C app values of nylon and polyester screens were 42 ~ 43 and 43 ~ 45 mN / m, respectively, determined by plotting cos ϕe against γL and extrapolating to cos ϕ(δ), where δ is a critical contact angle determined from a filament radius and the filament spacing. The values of γCapp were practically independent of the geometric structure of mesh screens, and very close to the critical surface tensions γC obtained by Zisman plots. We also examined wetting of mesh screens with an aqueous surfactant solution.
Determining Factors That Affect Fabric Shear Behavior with the Twist Method
Authors: Subramaniam V. , Sivakumar M. , Srinivasan V. , Sasikala M.
Published: March 2007

This paper discusses the effect of applied tension, specimen size, fabric sett, and shear strain on the shear behavior of fabrics using the twist method of measurement. Shear behavior depends critically on applied tension, specimen size, and fabric sett. The specimen size does not seem to affect the coercive shear stress in the nonbuckling region, but with buckling the specimen size significantly affects shear rigidity.
Donnan Approach to Equilibrium Sorption: Influence of Electrolytes on Dyeing of Dralon X-100 with CI Basic Blue 3
Authors: Alberghina G. , Fisichella S. , Occhipinti S.
Published: March 2007

We have investigated the effects of various electrolytes at different concentrations . on dyeing equilibria of CI basic blue 3 with Dralon X-100, interpreting the data with the Donnan approach. We have tried to separate the contribution of the cations and anions in the electrolytes. The results indicate that both cations and anions have independent effects on dye sorption. With increasing salt concentration, the dye sorp tion decreases, but with sodium and ammonium sulphate, an unusual increase of dye sorption occurs at salt concentrations up to 0.5 mol/l.
Bulk Characteristics of Jute / Polypropylene Yarns Texturized by Sodium Hydroxide Solution
Authors: Sinha A.K. , Mathew M.D. , Roy D.
Published: March 2007

Depending on the blend proportions of jute and polypropylene, the combined effect of axial shrinkage (14.5-27.0%) and weight loss (7.0-15.7%) of yarns was an increase in yam specific volume due to texturization by sodium hydroxide solution (18% w / v). The higher the proportion of polypropylene in the blend, the higher the specific volume of the yam. The specific volume of the texturized yarns falls with the increase in twist factor, and this effect is more pronounced when the proportion of jute in the blend is high.
Effects of Using Metallic Wires to Mechanically Clean and Shorten Scoured Wool Fibers to Produce Cotton/Wool Blended Yarns
Authors: Shepard Charles L. , Louis Gain L.
Published: March 2007

A carding cleaner that simultaneously cleans and shortens scoured wool fibers was investigated with various combinations of fine, medium and coarse metallic wires on the cylinders, four cylinder velocity differentials, and six spacings between cylinders. The optimum velocity differential and cylinder spacing for each wire was determined by measuring average fiber length, fiber length distribution, and percent of removed trash. Using the optimum factors for each wire, scoured wool was cleaned and short ened, blended with cotton, and processed into ring and open-end spun yarns using the conventional cotton processing system. Control lots of identical cotton/wool yarns were spun with wool produced using conventional wool processing methods. The results show it is possible to clean and shorten scoured wool with metallic wire cylinders, blend the wool with cotton fibers, and produce quality blended yams. Processing with the coarse wire produced the best fiber length distribution. The strength and uniformity of ring open-end cotton/wool yarns produced from carding cleaner prepared wool compared favorably with control yarns, but contained more neps and imperfections. The carding cleaner needs an improved doffing system to minimize nep formation.
Increased Resistance to Hydrolysis of Labile Bonds to Cellulose
Authors: Vail Sidney L.
Published: March 2007

Hydrolysis resistance of an N-methylol finish in acidic solutions can generally be predicted based on chemical factors, i.e., electronic effects of substituent groups on the intermediate immonium-carbonium ion, but other factors can produce unexpected results. In this respect, 2:1 and 4:1 molar ratios of formaldehyde in the finishing of cotton with a model reactant system based on N-methylol-2-pyrrolidone produced greater resistance to hydrolysis than anticipated. This effect was small and occurred primarily in the early stages of hydrolysis, suggesting that accessibility of some of the nitrogen bonds in the finish may have been reduced by the formaldehyde crosslinks.
Instrumental Techniques to Quantify Textural and Appearance Changes in Carpet
Authors: Wu Y. , Pourdeyhimi B. , Spivak S.M. , Hollies N.R.S.
Published: March 2007

Our research emphasis has been on identifying several key features of carpet quality combining both objective (instrumental) and subjective (human perception, HPA) approaches. Previously, HPA was used to determine a set of user terms and descriptions for assessing carpet quality features such as tuft geometry, luster, soiling, and overall appearance. The work reported here expands on the development of objective or instrumental methods for quantifying user perception of carpet appearance. A cus tomized, personal computer-based image analysis system, using an AT&T image cap ture board, has been developed. This new endeavor permits moderate resolution video capture of color images, with digital storage, retrieval, measurement, analysis, and enhancement. Special programming and illumination specifically designed for carpet surface analyses as well as carpet fiber-yarn properties are underway. The work reported here includes measurement of yam bundle or tuft size distribution through a regime of image enhancement, binary conversion, edge detection, and area measurement. Data are presented on various worn and unworn polyester Saxony tufted carpets using these techniques. Major new findings demonstrate the importance of color (RGB) imaging or colorimetric image analysis, in addition to gray level image processing, for determining appearance changes in carpet.
Determining Short Fiber Content in Cotton
Authors: Zeidman Mishu I. , Batra Subhash K. , Sasser Preston E.
Published: March 2007

The mathematical fundamentals of fiber length distribution are reviewed in a unified way, with particular emphasis on the derivation of short fiber content (SFC) by number and weight and other related length parameters. The concept of "similar distribu tions" is introduced to describe the resemblance in shape between different distribu tions. This is necessary because of the specific nature of cotton length distributions. The SFC as a length parameter is related to both the range and shape of the fiber length distributions. The paper concludes with the presentation of equations necessary to determine the SFC of a binary mixture, if the SFC and other fiber characteristics of each component are known.
Washing Cotton by Batch Processes
Authors: Perkins Henry H. , Berni Ralph J.
Published: March 2007

The OSHA cotton dust standard issued in 1985 exempted cottons washed on either a rayon rinse system or a continuous batt system except for medical surveillance every two years. Human challenge studies with these cottons demonstrated that the acute pulmonary response, as measured by over-work shift changes in forced expiratory volume in one second (FEV1) to card generated dusts, was substantially reduced. Batch washed cottons were not exempted because washing trials on antiquated equip ment gave inconsistent results. Cottons have now been washed by batch processes on modem equipment. Lint and card generated dusts were assayed for endotoxin contents. The levels in lint were within the acceptable range established for continuous batt washed cottons, and the levels in dust were below reported levels associated with a zero percentage change in FEV1.
Sonic Modulus of Cotton Yarn and Its Relationship to Abrasion Resistance, Friction, and Fatigue Parameters
Authors: Subramaniam V. , Muthukrishnan P. , Naik S.V.
Published: March 2007

This paper discusses the relationship between dynamic modulus and abrasion re sistance, friction, and fatigue of mercerized and crosslinked cotton yams. With slack and stretch mercerized yam samples, the correlation between dynamic modulus and abrasion resistance, friction, and fatigue is good, as it also is with crosslinked cotton yarns. These results show that sonic modulus measurements are related to the abrasion resistance of yams.
Abrasion and Lint Loss Properties of Fabrics Containing Crosslinked Polyethylene Glycol
Authors: Vigo Tyrone L. , Lamb George E.R. , Kepka Stanislaw , Miller Bernard
Published: March 2007

The attrition and wear characteristics of woven cotton and cotton/polyester blend fabrics were substantially improved (relative to untreated and conventional durable press control fabrics) when they contained crosslinked polyethylene glycols. Nonwoven cellulosic (pulp)/polyester fabrics (normally used in biomedical clean room environ ments) also generated substantially fewer particles when they contained the crosslinked polyols. Attrition and particle measurements using previously described techniques indicated that nonwoven fabrics derived from treatment with PEG-1,000 had fewer particles released at higher RH (75%) than at lower RH (25%). Conversely, nonwoven fabrics derived from treatment with PEG-1,450 had fewer particles released at lower RH (20%) than at higher RH (75%). Reduced attrition and lint loss/particle generation of modified woven and nonwoven fabrics make them candidates for use in a variety of clean room environments.
Laser Diffraction Measurements of the Parameters of Fine-Mesh Woven Textiles
Authors: Sodomka Lubomír , Komrska Jiří
Published: March 2007

There are problems in determining the warp and weft density, cover factor, and other characteristics of woven fabrics. A laser diffraction measuring technique is pro posed for determining warp and weft density, cover factor, orthotropy, and weave perfection of fine-mesh screen wovens. The applicability of the proposed method is demonstrated using two examples of screen wovens, Nybolt and Kontis.
Decoloration of Natural Coloring Matter with Sodium Percarbonate
Authors: Ohura R. , Katayama A. , Takagishi T.
Published: March 2007

We have investigated the initial rate of decoloration of some natural colorants by sodium percarbonate in solution and the influence of pH and temperature on the decoloration reaction. The natural colorants were flavonol, chrysin, carthamin, car minic acid, and shikonin. Orange II (CI acid orange 7), a typical synthetic azo dye, was used for comparison. The maximum rate constant was in the neighborhood of pH 11.5 for all cases, and increased in the following order flavonol < chrysin < car thamin < orange II < carminic acid < shikonin. The decoloration rate increased as the temperature rose. The apparent activation energy of the decoloration reaction seemed to decrease in the order above.
Analysis of Yarn Tension in Air-Jet Filling Insertion
Authors: Adanur Sabit , Mohamed Mansour H.
Published: March 2007

Yarn tension during air-jet filling insertion is analyzed experimentally and theo retically for drum and loop storage systems. In the case of drum storage, yarn tension is higher and more even. The model for drum storage shows that the yarn tension depends on the frictional force between the drum surface and the yarn, the mass linear density of the yam, and the unwinding speed. A set-up is developed for air friction coefficient measurements, and friction coefficients for two different yarns are deter mined.
Diffusion of a Disperse Dye in a Multiple Porous Membrane Assembly
Authors: Sasaki H. , Kidoh H. , Karasawa M.
Published: March 2007

The concentration distribution of a disperse dye in multiple porous membranes has been investigated. The increased surface concentration with dyeing time is attrib utable to the resistance to dye transport across the diffusional boundary layer. The apparent diffusion coefficient and the thickness of diffusional boundary layer are es timated in such a way that the experimental data fit with the theoretical curve of concentration distribution based on the diffusional boundary layer model. The pore model is applied to explain diffusion behavior in the porous membrane assembly.
Mechanics of Friction Twisting
Authors: Du Guangwu , Hearle John W.S.
Published: March 2007

A universal analysis of the behavior of a yam passing over a friction disc in false- twist texturing is given, and a numerical method to determine yam path, tension, and torque over the disc surface is developed. The analysis should be directly applicable to the earlier discs in a stack, where yam twist can be taken as constant, but a mod ification is required for the exit disc.
Characterizing Ester Crosslinkages in Cotton Cellulose with FT-IR Photoacoustic Spectroscopy 1
Authors: Yang Charles Q.
Published: March 2007

Polycarboxylic acids are being developed as new nonformaldehyde finishes for cotton fabrics to replace the traditional dimethyloldihydroxylethyleneurea. In this research, Fourier transform infrared photoacoustic spectroscopy (FT-IR/PAS) was used to char acterize the intermolecular ester crosslinkages in cotton cellulose. When esterification occurs between a polycarboxylic acid and cotton cellulose, the carbonyls retained in the cotton exist in three forms: ester, carboxylic acid, and carboxylate anion. The FT- IR data show that the band of the ester carbonyl can be separated from the bands of the other two carbonyls; therefore, the ester crosslinkages of the finished cotton fabrics can be compared on a semiquantitative basis with FT-IR spectroscopy. FT-IR/PAS was used to study the hydrolysis of the ester linkages, the recurability of the finished cotton fabrics, and the distribution of ester crosslinkages between the surfaces of the cotton fabrics and their interiors.
Tensile Viscoelastic Properties of Spunbonded Nonwoven Polypropylene Backing
Authors: Schaff A.J. , Ogale A.A.
Published: March 2007

The tensile elastic and viscoelastic properties of a nonwoven polypropylene backing, used as the main structural component during the processing of unfinished tufted carpets, are characterized in this study. Since the carpet is subjected to stretching in both the machine and cross-directions during the dyeing and drying processes, the various tensile properties are important material parameters. The average modulus of the untufted nonwoven substrate was 83,100 N/(m width) or 58.8 g/tex with a coefficient of variation of 12% within a roll. Based on the nominal thickness of 0.003 m of the carpet, the modulus was calculated at 27.7 MPa. The average modulus for the tufted substrate was 5.3 MPa (15,900 N/m width or 11.3 g/tex) with a coefficient of variation of 21 %. Since the dyeing and drying operations proceed at temperatures in the vicinity of 100°C, and the stresses and strains are applied for a time ranging up to 10 minutes, the time-dependent tensile properties are also significant at these elevated temperatures. Viscoelastic tests showed that the stress relaxation modulus for the tufted nonwoven substrate was of the order of 1 MPa and rather insensitive to temperatures over the range of 72 to 100°C. Viscoelastic models consisting of spring and dashpot elements were used to model the creep and stress-relaxation response. Variations ob served in tensile modulus, creep compliance, and stress-relaxation modulus suggest that the stress bearing structure, including filament density and bond strength, is not uniform in the nonwoven fabric.
Migration of Particulate Dye Mixtures in Textile Capillary Assemblies
Authors: Etters J.N.
Published: March 2007

A statistical analysis was made of the results of migration of a disperse dye in a homogeneous dispersion with itself and in a mixture with other dyes. The results of the analysis reveal that interaction of particulate dyes can occur. Migration of a ho mogeneous dye can be impeded by the presence of other dyes.
Development of a Computerized Method to Measure Cotton Tenacity at Different Extension Rates
Authors: Godbey L.C. , Taylor R.A. , Brown R.S.
Published: March 2007

Published research has indicated that cotton strength increases as the specimen loading rate increases when measured by Stelometer and Pressley methods. This report describes an instrument designed to test 1/8 gauge bundles at constant rates of extension from 0.05 to 50 cm/min. A computer analyzes voltage signals from force and dis placement transducers. Pressley jaws hold the fiber bundles, and a Stelometer vice is used to load them in the jaws. Specimens are selected with a mechanized sampling and combing procedure. The method provides measurements of strength, elongation, modulus, and two forms of toughness.
Vacuum Extraction of Caustic Soda Solution from Fabrics Containing Cotton: Impact on Mercerization
Authors: Broadbent Arthur D. , Fecteau Teresa , Maisonneuve Rhéo , Belkacemi Khaled
Published: March 2007

The vacuum extraction of aqueous NaOH solutions from fabrics containing cotton was studied on a laboratory scale. Removing the NaOH solution by vacuum was less effective than water removal because of the chemical combination of NaOH with the cellulose and the greater water retention of the swollen cotton fibers. Because cotton preferentially absorbs NaOH, the extracted solution was always more dilute than that in the initial bath. Thus, because of the substantivity of NaOH for cotton fibers, vacuum extraction increased the concentration of the solution retained by the material, and the extracted solution was more dilute. The water content of cotton fabrics after extraction increased by about 25% when they were mercerized, washed, neutralized, and then vacuumed again. This was a consequence of increased water absorption by the swollen fibers and not of lower air permeability decreasing the efficiency of ex traction. Vacuum extraction of wet fabrics prior to simple padding eliminated exchange of the water with the bath solution. The use of vacuum extraction in mercerization is outlined.
Effects of Mechanical Cleaning on Cotton Fibers
Authors: Bel Patricia D. , Simpson Carolyn L. , Columbus Eugene P. , Vinyard Bryan
Published: March 2007

Four different levels of lint cleaning in the gin were applied to smooth-leaf and hairy-leaf cottons. Nine different mill cleaning sequences were applied to each level of gin cleaning, resulting in a total of thirty-six different combinations of gin/mill cleanings for each variety. This study suggests lint cleaners should be used only as a step in the cleaning process, and most cleaning should be done in the mill. Such a shift from conventional processing could significantly improve the quality of cotton and reduce the short fiber content. Mills would benefit by having better quality yarns and higher processing efficiency, especially in spinning.
Birefringence of Wool
Authors: Gupta V.B. , Rao D. Rama
Published: March 2007

The birefringence of wool fibers from three different breeds of sheep, Lincoln, Chokla, and Merino, was measured at various relative humidities. Assuming that the α-helical phase in the crystalline regions is the only anisotropic component contributing to birefringence, the reduction in birefringence with increasing moisture content can be predicted reasonably satisfactorily if the intrinsic crystalline birefringence is taken to be 0.043 for all three wools. The contribution of form birefringence has also been estimated and comes out to between 8 to 13% of the total birefringence. In set fibers, humidity has an effect similar to native fibers. With increased temperature, there is a reduction of birefringence in set fibers, particularly around the melting point. The dependence of birefringence on structure and morphological features of wool is dis cussed.
Deltamethrin Spray as an Insect Repellent for Woolen Fabrics
Authors: Veer Vijay , Prasad Rameshwar , Rao K.M.
Published: March 2007

The effectiveness of solvent-based deltamethrin sprays at 0.025 and 0.05% concen tration, resulting in 0.029 and 0.052% oww, respectively, were evaluated against the larvae of the case making clothes moth Tinea translucens Meyrick and the furniture carpet beetle Anthrenus flavipes LeConte. Deltamethrin spray at 0.025% concentration provided a high degree of protection to wool fabric from the larval damage of insect pests even after 30 months of ageing in dark storage. A spray of 0.029% oww delta methrin also protected the fabric after five drycleanings from the Tinea translucens larvae.
Optimizing Textile Spindle Design Using Finite Element Analysis
Authors: Banks-Lee P. , Emerson P.D. , Keltie R.F. , Tucker P.A.
Published: March 2007

A discussion is presented on developing a finite element model to predict natural frequencies and mode shapes of an existing oil-lubricated spindle, testing the ability of the model to accurately predict the effect of changes in the spindle mass and stiffness, and using the model to determine a method of increasing the second natural frequency, thus reducing spindle vibration. In each step, model results are verified by making appropriate modifications in the existing spindle and testing the modified spindle under static conditions. Results appear promising and show an effective means of reducing spindle vibration. There is also a brief discussion of the expected performance of the modified spindle. Performance considerations are based on mode shape deflection at the top of the spindle. Results predict that the modified spindle will not cause increased performance problems.
Enhanced Bleaching and Softening of Jute by Pretreatment with Polysaccharide Degrading Enzymes
Authors: Kundu A.B. , Ghosh B.S. , Chakrabarti S.K. , Ghosh B.L.
Published: March 2007

The brightness of peroxide bleached jute material increased by about 3% when pretreated with an enzyme mix containing cellulase and xylanase. Pretreatment for 6 hours at pH 5.0 and 45°C using 0.2 u (unit) cellulase and 2.6 u of xylanase per gram of fibers gave the best results. Additives like nonionic surfactants or chelating agents during pretreatment further enhanced the brightness. Pretreatment reduced the per oxide requirement for bleaching and rendered the jute materials distinctly softer.
Dynamic Analysis of the Beat-Up Process
Authors: Dao Dekun , Bullerwell Arthur , Mohamed Mansour
Published: March 2007

This paper develops a dynamic analysis method for the beat-up process. Theoretical predictions of beat-up force and warp tension response during beat-up are made by setting up a weaving model under dynamic conditions. Weaving machine and fabric parameters, static and kinematic coefficient and index of friction between the warp and filling yams, total harness lift, shedding timing, back rest position, basic warp tension, and loom speed have been taken into account in predicting beat-up force and warp tension.
Flow Characteristics of the Main Nozzle in an Air-Jet Loom
Authors: Ishida Minoru , Okajima Atsushi
Published: March 2007

To obtain basic data for an optimum design of the main nozzle for an air-jet loom, we have made measurements of static pressures on the walls of the main nozzle and analyzed flow velocity changes in the nozzle tube by changing air tank pressures and acceleration tube lengths. The flow may reach a critical condition of Mach 1 at two positions, the needle tip and the acceleration tube exit. Increased tank pressure brings about the critical throat condition at these two positions, so the flow in the nozzle can be completely defined. The tank pressure PT to bring the needle tip to the critical condition depends on the acceleration tube length, and PT is higher for longer accel eration tubes. The PT value required to bring the acceleration tube exit to the critical condition is nearly constant regardless of acceleration tube length. For the nozzle used in this experiment, tank pressure was about 4 kgf/cm2.
Cellulase Treatment of Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Koo H. , Ueda M. , Wakida T. , Yoshimura Y. , Igarashi T.
Published: March 2007

We have investigated the rate of catalytic hydrolysis of cellulose fabrics by a cellulase enzyme in the presence of dyes on a cotton substrate. We found that both direct and reactive dyes on the substrate apparently inhibited the enzyme catalytic reaction, whereas a vat dye did not. The enzyme was more active for mercerized than for nonmercerized cotton. The enzyme treatment significantly reduced both tear strength and dye uptake of the fabrics. Enzyme-treated and successively dyed fabrics showed different color fading profiles compared to untreated fabrics after laundering.
Experimental Techniques for Measuring Parameters Describing Wetting and Wicking in Fabrics
Authors: Ghali K. , Jones B. , Tracy J.
Published: March 2007

Once capillary pressure and permeability are determined for saturations ranging from near zero to 100%, liquid transport related to both wicking and wetting behavior can be described by Darcy's equation. The purpose of the work reported here is to assess and develop experimental techniques that allow capillary pressure and per meability to be measured over a wide range of saturations. Cotton and polypropylene fabrics are the test materials. Capillary pressure head is measured as a function of saturation for cotton and polypropylene fabric samples using the column test, and permeability is measured as a function of saturation using the siphon test. The siphon test works for cotton but not for polypropylene. A new method using a transient measurement technique is developed to determine the permeability of both samples as a function of saturation; it works well for both samples.
Tissue Softness Evaluation by Mechanical Stylus Scanning
Authors: Rust J.P. , Keadle T.L. , Allen D.B. , Shalev I. , Barker R.L.
Published: March 2007

A mechanical stylus surface analyzer (MSSA) system and the corresponding software were used to conduct standard surface analysis procedures. The MSSA instrumentation measures surface characteristics of soft bathroom tissue products. This paper describes the applicability of MSSA and how human tactile response may be modeled through characterization of surfaces. The concepts of passive and active touch as related to human perceived softness are reviewed. In particular, parameters pertinent to these kinds of tactile exploration are mentioned, as well as how they can be used to build a better model of human tactile response. A novel frequency analysis parameter called the frequency index for tactile sensitivity (FITS) is based on tissue paper surface analysis results from MSSA and provides the basis for the human response model. Included is a review of subjective human softness evaluation data for select tissues gathered to represent actual human responses. The MSSA and optical image analysis (OIA) data were collected on the same tissues, and the FITS parameter was found using MSSA. Also, MSSA data were used to reproduce an old standard parameter for evaluating tissue softness called the human tactile response (HTR) index. Since it is not possible to exactly reproduce HTR, the reproduced parameter calculated in this study is called HTR equivalent (HTR_EQ). Finally, standard deviation of luminance (SDL) and loosely bonded surface fibers (LBSF) parameters are determined for select tissues using OIA. Correlation results of the human data with FITS, HTR—EQ, SDL, and LBSF are discussed; FITS correlates best with the human response data and, together MSSA and FITS, has the ability to model human response to the softness of tissue paper products.
Straightening of Crimped and Hooked Fibers in Converging Transport Ducts: Computational Modeling
Authors: Smith A.C. , Roberts W.W.
Published: March 2007

A two-dimensional dynamics model for the motion of fibers in an accelerating laminar air flow is presented. Nonlinear model equations for each fiber include effects of inertia, air drag, and flexural rigidity. This rigidity, or stiffness, acts in such a way that a curled or hooked fiber resists being straightened. Randomly distributed fiber crimps at the inlet can be preferentially straightened as the fibers are transported in two converging ducts. Statistical measures of straightening are provided.
Applying the Kubelka-Munk Equation to Explain the Color of Blends Prepared from Precolored Fibers
Authors: Amirshahi S.H. , Pailthorpe M.T.
Published: March 2007

A basic form of the Kubelka-Munk equation is proposed to explain the color be havior of blends of precolored fibers. For blends of fibers the textile industry commonly uses, which are not completely opaque, the color mixing mechanism consists of two independent processes acting simultaneously. According to the Kubelka-Munk theory for blended fibers as a translucent medium, among other parameters, the reflectance of each point on the surface is a function of the reflectances of the lower layers. This part of the color mixing mechanism is described by the law of subtractive color mixing that results from the multitude of colored dots formed by the different configurations of the fibers, from which their reflectances can be determined by the basic form of Kubelka-Munk theory. The number of these different colored dots is a function of the number of layers that are necessary to produce an opaque substrate. An increase in the fibers' translucency leads to an increase of the number of these colored dots. For fibers of the same diameter, the probability of the existence of points with a specific reflectance depends on the percentages of fibers in the blend. When this surface is viewed from a distance, the colored dots, like the dots on the screen of a color television set, mix spatially by averaging. Thus a combination of subtractive and partitive color mixing is taking place for blends.
Dyeing Natural Fibers with Disperse Dyes in Supercritical Carbon Dioxide
Authors: Gebert Beate , Saus Wolfgang , Knittel Dierk , Buschmann Hans-Jürgen , Schollmeyer Eckhard
Published: March 2007

Because of the success of dyeing synthetic fibers with disperse dyes in supercritical carbon dioxide, we have investigated the possibility of dyeing natural fibers with this technique. Experiments are presented for wool and cotton dyeings after a special pretreatment.
Novel Fluoroalkylation of Polyester Surfaces: Grafting with Perfluoroalkanoyl Peroxides
Authors: Kawase Tokuzo , Fuj Tomiko , Minagawa Motoi , Sawada Hideo , Nakayama Masaharu
Published: March 2007

Perfluoroalkanoyl peroxides such as (C3F7COO)2 have been found to react with polyester film only on the surface. The modified polyester surfaces were characterized by contact angle measurements using a two-liquid phase system and by ESCA spec troscopy. These provided surface free energy values and surface atom content values as a function of reaction time. Perfluoroalkyl groups substituted on the aromatic rings of the polyester surface influenced both the dispersive component γsd of surface free energy and the polar one γSp. The surface free energies decreased with the reaction time and reached a plateau at about 1 hour. There was a large decrease in γSd. Based on the ESCA characterization, the area ratio of the F1 s peak to the O 1 s peak was linearly correlated not only to γ Sd but also to γSp.
Sorption of Disperse Dye by Polyester Fibers: Boundary Layer Transitional Kinetics
Authors: Etters J.N.
Published: March 2007

The kinetics of disperse dyeing of polyester fibers is extremely complex. For a given dye/fiber system, the rate of dye uptake is controlled by physicochemical parameters such as distribution and diffusion coefficients. Mathematical analysis reveals, however, that even when such coefficients are constant, concentration-independent quantities, the uptake rate of disperse dye is still sensitive to other physicochemical parameters such as dyebath concentration and rate of flow.