bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Cloning of a novel protease required for the molting of Locusta migratoria manilensis
Authors: Wei Zhang , Yin Youping , Zhang Basheng , Wang Zhongkang , Peng Guoxiong , Cao Yueqing , Xia Yuxian
Published: August 2010

Molting is required for progression between larval stages in the life cycle of an insect. The essence of insect molting is the laying down of new cuticle followed by shedding of the old cuticle. Degradation and recycling of old cuticle are brought about by enzymes present in the molting fluid, which fills the space between the old and new cuticle. Here, we describe the cloning of a novel protease gene from Locusta migratoria manilensis, designated as Lm‐TSP. The cDNA and its deduced protein sequences were deposited in GenBank (accession numbers EF081255 and ABN13876, respectively). Sequence analysis indicated that Lm‐TSP belongs to the trypsin‐like serine protease family. We show, by RNA interference (RNAi), that silencing of Lm‐TSP leads to dramatic reductions in protease and cuticle‐degrading activity of a molting fluid, which leads to molting defects from fourth‐instar larvae (L4) to fifth‐instar larvae (L5), and between L5 and adult stages. These observations suggest that Lm‐TSP plays a critical role in L. migratoria manilensis ecdysis.
Adhesive papillae on the brachiolar arms of brachiolaria larvae in two starfishes, Asterina pectinifera and Asterias amurensis, are sensors for metamorphic inducing factor(s)
Authors: Murabe Naoyuki , Hatoyama Hideo , Komatsu Miéko , Kaneko Hiroyuki , Nakajima Yoko
Published: August 2010

It has been hypothesized by Barker that starfish brachiolaria larvae initiate metamorphosis by sensing of metamorphic inducing factor(s) with neural cells within the adhesive papillae on their brachiolar arms. We present evidence supporting Barker's hypothesis using brachiolaria larvae of the two species, Asterina pectinifera and Asterias amurensis. Brachiolaria larvae of these two species underwent metamorphosis in response to pebbles from aquaria in which adults were kept. Time‐lapse analysis of A. pectinifera indicated that the pebbles were explored with adhesive papillae prior to establishment of a stable attachment for metamorphosis. Microsurgical dissections, which removed adhesive papillae, resulted in failure of the brachiolaria larvae to respond to the pebbles, but other organs such as the lateral ganglia, the oral ganglion, the adhesive disk or the adult rudiment were not required. Immunohistochemical analysis with a neuron‐specific monoclonal antibody and transmission electron microscopy revealed that the adhesive papillae contained neural cells that project their processes towards the external surface of the adhesive papillae and they therefore qualify as sensory neural cells.
Alpha‐fetoprotein is dynamically expressed in rat pancreas during development
Authors: Liu Lijie , Guo Jing , Yuan Li , Cheng Mei , Cao Lihua , Shi Hui , Tong Hui , Wang Ning , De Wei
Published: August 2010

To identify proteins involved in pancreatic development, we used a differential proteomics approach by comparing pancreatic extracts from four biologically significant stages of development: embryonic day (E) 15.5, E18.5, postnatal (P) days 0 and adult. By two‐dimensional gel electrophoresis (2D‐E) and MALDI‐TOF MS (Matrix Assisted Laser Desorption/Ionization Time‐Of‐Flight Mass Spectrometry) following database searching and protein annotation, 15 proteins were identified as being differently expressed in the pancreas between the four phases. The expression pattern and the localization of alpha‐fetoprotein (AFP), one of significant changed proteins observed, were further determined. Four isoforms of AFP (72 kDa, 60 kDa, 48 kDa and 37 kDa) were found by Western blotting in the pancreas tested, most of them showed a stronger signal in E18.5 followed by a steady decrease and only a 60‐kDa isoform was detected in the adult pancreas. Immunolocalization for AFP revealed that a positive reactivity was detectable at E15.5 pancreas, became stronger in the cytoplasm of mesenchyme cells at E18.5, and declined after birth to a nearly undetectable level in adults. The dynamic expression of AFP in rat pancreas from different stages indicates that AFP might be involved in some aspects of pancreatic development.
Philosophical Affinities of Postmodern Sociology
Authors: Bauman Zygmunt
Published: August 2010

Both the nature of philosophical and sociological discourses are undergoing a profound change, attuned to the gradual substitution of the postmodern sensibility for the cultural climate dominant during the modern age. In particular, philosophy sustained by legislative reason recedes, replaced by a philosophical style informed by interpretative reason; a movement in many respects reminiscent of the Pyrrhonian Crisis of the 16th–17th centuries. The passage from the orthodox consensus of modern sociology to a postmodern sociological strategy parallels this transformation. The present change, however, affects the very relationship between philosophy and sociology. From the search for the foundations of cognitive certainty, the outspoken domain of philosophy guided by the legislative reason, epistemological concerns move to the communicative problems of communally founded cognitive systems – the acknowledged realm of sociological investigation.
The Self as Risk Taker: A Cultural Theory of Contagion in Relation to AIDS
Authors: Douglas Mary , Calvez Marcel
Published: August 2010

Some people are prepared to take high risks with their lives and those of others. Should this be surprising? Is it more normal to be risk-taking? or risk averse? The argument below will be that the risk taking facet and the risk-averse facet of the personality each emerges in the course of a public debate on freedom and control. It is not psychology but anthropology that shows how the community forces sharp and clear ideas about the self upon its members.
Military Technology and Socio-Cultural Change in the Ancient Greek City
Authors: Bryant Joseph M
Published: August 2010

The political culture of classical Greek civilization, with its distinctive twin ideals of citizenship and mass participatory democracy, represents a revolutionary development in the history of human society. The social origins of that momentous cultural breakthrough are examined in this essay, with specific attention being given to those forces – destructive as well as reorganizing – which undermined the bases of traditional aristocratic domination and which prepared the ground for the emergence of new institutional patterns. Pressures for structural and normative ‘democratization’ are shown to have been exerted primarily by changes in the military domain, the central axis of political and economic power within the ancient city.
Aspects of Information Technology: Constructing Time and Needs as Universals
Authors: Parsons Stephen D.
Published: August 2010

Postmodernist writers question the applicability of universal narratives to contemporary societies. Through an investigation of the introduction/construction of information technology (IT) in the NHS, it is possible to discern processes of universalisation. The phenomena of money, needs, and time all provide universal media which orientate developments in IT. This orientation is possible in so far as these media facilitate universal communication whilst also allowing for an increase in differentiation.

Needs and time provide the possibility of investigating how universalisation proceeds as, unlike money, they are not already universal within a market economy. Needs require detaching from their traditional framework in order to facilitate universal communication, whereas time must be constructed so that objectivity and rationality are seen to prevail. Through the construction of temporal relations, money and needs can provide indeterminate futures which hold out the promise of universalised communication. It is argued that, as a consequence, investigations of the relevance of IT in health care provision must forgo the orientation towards ‘funding problems’.
Anthropological versus Sociological Approaches to the Study of Soccer Hooliganism: Some Critical Notes
Authors: Dunning Eric , Murphy Patrick , Waddington Ivan
Published: August 2010

It is argued that the anthropological approach, as used by Armstrong and Harris, has not generated any breakthrough in the study of soccer hooliganism. In particular, it is suggested that their use of a commonsense rather than a sociological concept of violence vitiates their analysis in several ways, contributing above all to substantial inconsistencies between some of their own empirical data and their general conclusions concerning levels of soccer-related violence.

It is also contended that their critique of the ‘figurational’ or ‘process-sociological’ approach followed by the Leicester researchers is based on a confused misrepresentation of that approach. Specifically it is argued (i) that Armstrong and Harris fail to recognize the wide range of methods, including extensive participant observation, used by the Leicester group, (ii) that their attempt to cast doubt on the Leicester group's contention that the core football hooligans come predominantly from the ‘rougher’ sections of the working class is based on nothing more than a priori speculation. In this connection, Armstrong and Harris themselves provide no reliable data on the social class of soccer hooligans in Sheffield, and they seem unaware of the fact that several different sources of data appear to confirm the finding of the Leicester group, (iii) they have misunderstood both the terminology and the reasoning of the Leicester group concerning the ‘rougher’ sections of the working class and their relationship to football hooliganism.
Postmodernism, Rationality and the Evaluation of Health Care
Authors: Fox Nicholas J.
Published: August 2010

This paper examines the logic of evaluation of health care services, calling into question the possibility of assessing the extent to which medicine and health care systems are ‘rational’ or ‘irrational’ The paper analyses and rejects claims to rationality made in discourses on evaluation and in particular economic evaluation, by recourse to Weber's distinction between formal and substantive rationalities. The rationality claimed by evaluation is a value-laden and therefore substantive rationality. Similarly, the claims of the rational actor model are seen to over-simplify the ways actors interact in the market.

This leads to a postmodernist perspective rejecting the idea of a single rationality, which if it can only be grasped enables the achievement of Truth, and substituting the position of contingent and fragmentary discourse, brought into being to serve the interests of particular groups in determining knowledge and power. With regard to the evaluation of health services, whereas the modernist assumes that the Enlightenment metanarrative of rationality has imbued the provision and delivery of health care, and that the evaluation by another discipline within this metanarrative, for instance health economics, can fine-tune this rational system for efficacy and efficiency, and suggest changes, the postmodern position recognises that both are distinct discursive perspectives, constituted for local reasons.

This position is then applied to a case study of the management of surgical services based on ethnographic work conducted by the author. Deconstruction of the ethnography derives an understanding of the disruption of surgery as being a consequence of the arrangements for clinical advice in the committee structure of management.
Family Structures and the Moral Politics of Caring
Authors: Rodger John J.
Published: August 2010

The paper seeks to develop the discussion of informal care in the community stimulated by feminist analyses in social policy of what has been called ‘the moral politics of caring’. In particular the paper enquires into the relationship between family structures and the ‘political styles’ through which families bargain about caring issues. A selection of studies dealing with family structure and decision-making are discussed. The paper closes by making some observations about the potential development of family therapy strategies, particularly by social workers trying to ensure the co-operation and involvement of family members, friends and neighbors in caring responsibilities within the new community care framework.
Women's Experience of Power within Marriage: An Inexplicable Phenomenon?
Authors: O'Connor Pat
Published: August 2010

Relatively little attention has been paid within mainstream sociology to the examination of marital power, although there is considerable disenchantment with measures of it based on replies to questions about who makes a range of decisions. Marxists and feminists have stressed the importance of economic dependence as an element in understanding power relationship within marriage, although there has been little empirical work to support/undermine their views.

This paper draws on material from 60 in-depth interviews with predominantly white married women aged 20–42 years old whose oldest child was at most 15 years and who were randomly selected from general practice medical registers in North London. The paper looks at three aspects of their marital power position: first, their experience of powerfulness/powerlessness; second, their level and pattern of emotional dependence on their husband (in the context of Waller's and Hill's (1951)‘principle of least interest’); and, third, their absolute and relative levels of structural power resources (such as education, occupation, etc.)

It shows that although the overwhelming majority of the respondents were partially if not totally financially dependent on their husband, only roughly one third felt powerless within their marriage. The importance of relational and structural sources of power in influencing these feelings is explored, the paper arguing that such feelings are less influenced by the respondents’ own structural resources than by factors associated with the husband's economic position and his role within the family.

Hence, paradoxically, although the respondents feel less powerless than they ‘should’ in terms of their level of economic dependence, the factors associated with variation in feelings of powerlessness highlight the constrained nature of their situation.
The Impact of Early Life-Course Transitions on Equality at Work and Home
Authors: Ward Clare , Dale Angela
Published: August 2010

This paper investigates two aspects of the paid employment relationship between female and male partners aged 23. It is argued that in order to understand women's position in the home and the labour market it is necessary to consider employment relationships in the context of the household. The impact of children on women's labour force participation is already well known and in this paper we show that marriage also has an independent effect on hours worked. The second aspect of the paper concerns the relative financial contribution of each partner to the family income from their labour market earnings. It is recognised that power and equality within the home are to some extent derived from the relative contribution of partners to the family income. It is shown that women are economically dependent on men even in the early stages of their partnership before children and that this dependence is greater among women with children.
Entering the Labour Market in Britain: The Survival of Traditional Opportunity Structures
Authors: Roberts K. , Parsell Glennys
Published: August 2010

This article analyses the career development from age 16 to 20 of representative samples from Kirkcaldy, Liverpool, Sheffield and Swindon who were surveyed by mailed questionnaire in three successive years – 1987, 1988 and 1989. Although most respondents attributed significant power of career determination to themselves, the evidence shows that the young people's career choices had typically been inconsequential for their later achievements. These had depended on their places of residence, secondary school qualifications, and social class backgrounds. The samples' self-concepts and social beliefs were not systematically affected by, but had played a part in determining, their career paths. However, social class origins, on account of their cumulative effects at successive career stages, were the best predictors of the samples' longer-term career trajectories. The evidence from this research shows that the benefits of the new opportunities in post-compulsory education and youth training that were introduced in Britain in the 1980s were filtered by the traditional predictors of career success. Furthermore, the main routes into the workforce of the 1970s and before – an academic track for high achievers in education, and employment-led inductions from age 16 or 17 for the rest – remained the main routes at the end of the 1980s.
Research Note: Women's Experience of the Mother Role
Authors: O'Connor Pat
Published: August 2010

Despite the feminist critique of the assumptions implicit in the ideology of motherhood, relatively little empirical work has been done on women's own experience of this role. This research note uses data from a small scale intensive study of 51 married or cohabiting mothers aged 20–42 years old, whose oldest child was 15 years old, and who were randomly selected from medical records in a lower middle class area of North London. Building on Boulton's (1983) conceptualization, it differentiates between three aspects of this role (namely their commitment to it; its perceived identity enhancing/ destructive character and the positive/negative quality of their interaction with their children). These women's experience of the mother role was then assessed on these dimensions – using rating scales and anchoring examples (which are illustrated here).

This research note suggests that even within this relatively homogenous lower middle/upper working class sample, the experience of motherhood was extremely varied: with less than half of the sample experiencing it positively at all three levels. An attempt is made to explain this variation.
Money, Power and Inequality within Marriage
Authors: Vogler Carolyn , Pahl Jan
Published: August 2010

The growing body of research on the intra-household economy suggests that in couple households there are significant associations between control over household finances and more general power within the household. However, most earlier research has been based on relatively small samples. Here a major new British data set, produced by the Social Change and Economic Life Initiative, is used to examine the relations between money, power and inequality within marriage. Six different systems of financial allocation are identified. The results suggest that even when couples nominally pool their money, in practice either husband or wife is likely to control the pool. In only one fifth of couples was the pool jointly controlled, but these households were characterised by the highest levels of equality between husband and wife in terms of decision making, experience of deprivation and access to personal spending money.

Findings from the study indicate a complex pattern of relationships between household income level, household allocative system and gender. Female control of finances, though it was associated with greater decision-making power for women, did not protect them against financial deprivation; however, male control of finances, especially when it took the form of the housekeeping allowance, did serve to protect the financial interests of men in comparison with women. Gender inequality was least in households with joint control of pooled money and greatest either in low income households or in higher income households with male control of finances.
The Postmodern Critique of Ideology
Authors: Larrain Jorge
Published: August 2010

Postmodernism is a complex cultural phenomenon which is characterised, among other things, by its distrust of totalising discourses, of reason and of universal truth. It propounds indeterminacy, the primacy of difference and the incommensurability between discourses, which are supposed to have their own regimes of truth. This is why postmodernism is suspicious about the critical concept of ideology, because according to its tenets it is impossible to pass judgement on a discourse from the perspective of another discourse. Hence the critical concept of ideology must be abandoned. However, an examination of Foucault's, Baudrillard's and Lyotard's work shows that they unwittingly end up re-introducing the concept through the back door thus contradicting themselves. While they doubt the validity of total discourses and of their ideological critique, they must assume the validity of their own critique of total discourses.
Ideology, Domination and Unemployment
Authors: Howe Leo
Published: August 2010

Criticisms of the neo-Marxist dominant ideology thesis tend to underemphasize the role which ideology plays in legitimating and sustaining systems of inequality, and instead to privilege explanations based on the ‘iron cage’ of economic and political relationships. A serious problem with some neo-Marxist analyses is the rather crude conceptualization of ideology which makes them susceptible to attack. Using material collected in Belfast amongst Protestant and Catholic working class, employed and unemployed, married men, this article seeks both to recast the notion of ideology, in particular to suggest that ideology would be better conceived not as a coherent, self-consistent system of ideas, but rather as a possibly contradictory set of themes whose primary importance lies in their specific, changing and tactical relationships to typical forms of practice, and also thereby to demonstrate how powerful and pervasive is the ideological dimension of domination.
Laughter for Sale
Authors: Mulkay Michael , Howe Gerard
Published: August 2010

An audio-visual recording is examined in detail to show how humour can be made available as an economic good and. at the same time, employed as a means of social control. It is argued that, in unstructured settings, vendors face special interactional problems in accomplishing economic exchange and that the special features of humour as a form of discourse and social action can be used to deal with these problems.
AZT Kill or Cure? The Social Essences of Scientific Authority
Authors: Grinyer Anne
Published: August 2010

This paper examines differing institutional responses to and interpretation of the same scientific and medical data, and looks at the way in which policies, ostensibly based upon these interpretations, are presented to public audiences. The case study concerns the use of AZT as a prophylactic for injured health care workers. Data was collected from personal in depth interviews in two health authorities and telephone interviews with a further 35 health authorities. Observations include the fact that widely different interpretations of scientific data by scientific and medical experts is likely to be presented to the lay audience in terms of scientific certainty, based on an institutional need for certainty and consensus. Contrary to conventional perspectives which would suggest that scientific knowledge was completed in its expert arena, then applied in different settings, this analysis suggests that the scientific knowledge is socially ‘completed’ or ‘closed’ in each of the different situations in which it is interpreted into practice. Ideal models of both the science and of organisational working practice, appear to have been used as the basis of these different constructions.
English Households and Routine Food Practices: A Research Note
Authors: Warde Alan , Hetherington Kevin
Published: August 2010

This paper reports some findings from a study of households in the region of Greater Manchester. As part of a wider study of divisions of labour within households, information was collected about food preparation, the place of food in domestic routines and aspects of food preferences. The results are compared with Charles and Kerr's (1988) account of British domestic food practices.
The Discursive Structure of the Social-Technical Divide: The Example of Information Systems Development
Authors: Rachel Janet , Woolgar Steve
Published: August 2010

The social and technical are commonly defined in opposition to each other. Yet technology practitioners are often quite comfortable with the idea that the technical is constitutively social. Drawing on an ethnographic study of a computerised information systems development project, this paper examines various usages of notions of ‘technical’. Attempts to situate the study at the ‘technical core’ of the project were met with a series of rebuffs. ‘Technical’ talk is to be understood as a categorising device which does boundary work. Technical talk invokes and performs a disjunction between networks of social relationships and stipulates a moral order with associated norms for acceptance and transition.

The difficulty of penetrating the intelligibility of technical talk is understandable as a struggle in familiarising oneself with the routine social actions of a separate community. In addition, the private sphere of the technical is often distanced in time. The costs involved in journeying into the future are analogous to those of penetrating alien cultures. Ideas of progress and advance are often associated with the invocation of ‘the technical’. These connote a notion of timing which reinforces the distance and difference of – and hence depicts the costs involved in penetrating – removed sets of social relationships.

Technical a. Appropriate or peculiar to, or characteristic of, a particular art, science, profession, or occupation (OED).
Where the Mystical Meets the Market: Creativity and Commerce in the Production of Popular Music
Authors: Negus Keith
Published: August 2010

Taking as my theme the familiar opposition between commerce and creativity, this paper contrasts different sociological approaches to the production of popular music and questions some of the assumptions about the rational nature of the market and mystical character of creative inspiration, that are often implied when these terms – ‘creativity’ and ‘commerce’ – are used in this binary oppositional manner. In arguing for a sociology of the mundane practices that produce ‘commercial’ and ‘creative’ texts, I suggest that the production of popular music does not so much involve a conflict between commerce and creativity, but a struggle over what is creative, and what is to be commercial.
The English as They See others: England Revealed in Provence
Authors: Aldridge Alan
Published: August 2010

Peter Mayle's best-selling accounts of his life in Provence have appealed to a wide audience in Britain but have also attracted harsh criticism. It is argued here that these works, although ostensibly about Provence, are better analysed as myths for the English. The contrast with an account from the 1930s reflects wider social change, showing a move from a confidently colonial to a self-consciously ‘anthropological’ mode. Doubts about the authenticity of Mayle's accounts are related both to his use of free indirect discourse and other literary devices in order to convey ethnographic colour, and to ideological tensions in post-colonial Britain.
Food Practices and Division of Domestic Labour. A Comparison between British and Swedish Households
Authors: Jansson Sören
Published: August 2010

This paper emanates from a problem with general reference to basic conditions of family life and food practices. More specifically it concerns the striving of preventive health care in persuading contemporary Western Europeans to change their attitudes to food in a health oriented direction. The question is: Do gender roles at home influence people's attitudes towards food? A survey of current sociological and ethnological research in Great Britain and Sweden shows two partly different gender role patterns, one (the British) with obvious traits of role segregation and the other (the Swedish) comparatively more integrated. From these observations follows an analysis of how each pattern respectively affects food practices on a household level. One conclusion is that segregated roles seem to favour conservatism while equality oriented relations create prerequisites for changeability. The discussion comments on social and historical conditions generating differences in gender role patterns, with special emphasis on working class culture and peasant culture as important historical factors. The paper concludes by asserting that the conditions for political initiative aimed at increased equality at home are better today than ever before during the twentieth century. But to succeed these initiatives must primarily focus upon the male role and its relation to domestic work.
Motivation and Motherhood: Past and Present Attributions in the Reconstruction of Illegitimacy
Authors: Blaikie Andrew
Published: August 2010

‘Epidemics’ of teenage pregnancy and ‘amazing rises’ in illegitimacy are part of a recurrent moral panic about the social implications of sexual nonconformity. Simultaneously, major social surveys attempt to provide empirical assessments of actual sexual behaviour. There is often a yawning gulf between the images created by press and politicians and the experiences of their subjects. Similarly, in the 1850s when statistics first ruptured the cosy notion that rural Scotland was the home of all that was virtuous and that vice inhabited the cities, perplexed clerics and reformers set about creating convenient fictions to explain high levels of bastardy in farming districts. Their conclusions tell us far more about middle-class suppositions about sexual attitudes than they do about the motives of those that they purported to be investigating. Thus explanation of rural sexual behaviour needs to be sought in ways that reach beyond the ideology of social concern. This paper explores, first, the vocabularies of motive informing social investigation and, secondly, the local contexts in which women conceived, bore and reared their children, and the roles of poor relief, the churches, grandparents and fathers. Far from representing ‘an index of “disorganisation” in an urbanising epoch‘, unmarried motherhood appears to have been both a relevant and culturally sanctioned response to straitened circumstances (Goode, 1961). The discussion considers the pervasiveness of attempts to classify and contain illegitimacy within an underclass interpretation despite clear evidence to the contrary. Against such willing opacity, accessing the motives of the parents themselves remains a tantalizingly difficult exercise, especially when dealing with historical data beyond oral recall. The routes by which intentionality may be inferred are critically assessed.
Contemplating the Monster: UK National Press Treatment of the Frank Beck Affair
Authors: Aldridge Meryl
Published: August 2010

In November 1991, at Leicester Crown Court, Frank Beck was sentenced to five life terms and twenty-four years' imprisonment for sexual abuse during his work as a residential social worker. His activities resulted in four official reports. Given the scale of his wrong-doing, surely a torrent of sensational coverage would have been predicted at every stage of these events? Yet neither the trial nor the official reports received high profile press treatment. This relative silence about a major criminal episode with fundamental policy implications graphically illustrates the social construction of news. It is first described, and then analysed in terms of the daily practices, the political preoccupations, and the framing devices that constitute ‘news’ in UK national newspapers.
The Unity of Social Movements
Authors: Jordan Tim
Published: August 2010

A coherent intellectual structure for social movement studies has recently been emerging over a range of theoretical and empirical studies. This structure counterposes ‘within social movements’ a diverse range of collective actions against the unity imposed by a collective identity. However, theorisations of this collective identity have so far failed to address the contradiction between structure and agency. A definition of collective identity for social movements that is not caught in the structure/agency divide is proposed by defining the appropriate level of abstraction for such a definition, defining why movements are unified and then how.
Protest, Poverty and Power: A Case Study of the Anti-Poll Tax Movement
Authors: Bagguley Paul
Published: August 2010

In 1989–90 a regressive local tax, the Community Charge or poll tax as it became known, was introduced by the Conservative government. Its implementation was met by widespread sometimes violent protest, and a systematic campaign of non-payment. In response the tax Was replaced by the more progressive Council Tax. This paper considers the nature of the anti-poll tax protest. Its social base, forms of organisation and tactics are considered in relation to theoretical debates about new social movements and poor people's movements.
Developments in Package Dyeing
Authors: FLEMING R. , GAUNT J. F.
Published: August 2010

Progress in package‐dyeing yarn during the past ten years has been rapid, both in the total weight of yarn dyed, the types of fibre being dyed, and particularly in the design of dyeing machines and to a lesser extent in dyeing techniques. Polyester filament yarn is of great importance, but there have been significant developments in dyeing high‐bulk acrylic yarns. In machinery developments, the outstanding features are in the rate of flow of liquor, and the frequency with which the liquor is circulated. New techniques have been developed to take advantage of these mechanical features, so that dyeing can be commenced at 135°C and the liquor dropped at this temperature, thus minimizing oligomer problems with polyester yarn. Many new disperse dyes of high sublimination fastness on polyester fibre have been introduced and these take full advantage of the new machinery and dyeing techniques.

Another factor leading to wider use of package dyeing has been the need for shorter manufacturing cycles in the production of coloured yarn, particularly for woven fabrics. Worsted yarn, which would normally have been spun from dyed top is now being package dyed on a large scale.

With spun yarns, the advantages of dyeing acrylic yarn in muff form have led to the rapid growth of this method of dyeing.
Colour Chemistry and The Environment
Authors: ANLIKER R.
Published: August 2010

This paper was presented at the Sixth International Colour Symposium, FreudenstaJt, Germany, September 27 October 1, 1976.

Dyes, and by extension the various organic compounds used for coloration, including organic pigments and fluorescent whitening agents (FWAs)†, are among the organic chemicals which we encounter as technological and functional necessities in nearly every sphere of our daily lives. They also greatly influence our mood and thus contribute enormously to the very quality of the lives we lead. At the same time we have come to realize that our achievements and continuing technological progress are only worthwhile provided they pose no hazard to the environment. Tremendous efforts have been undertaken on a worldwide scale to identify, measure, evaluate, and eliminate the undesirable effects of chemicals and hence dyes, on man and the environment. The present paper deals in particular with the environmental problems associated with the manufacture and use of dyes, problems so complex and so varied in impact that only a discerning appraisal can put them into proper perspective. An attempt is made to define and evaluate these problems and to show, with reference to selected examples, what measures have been and are being implemented to overcome them. Various aspects of the relevant legal regulations, the obligation on manufacturers to take due care in their operations, and product liability are touched upon. It is certain that a good deal of creative, interdisciplinary effort and meticulous attention to minor detail will be necessary to master existing and future environmental problems in this area. That is the challenge facing all scientists engaged in colour chemistry.
The Coloration of Wallcoverings
Authors: STRETTON ELIZABETH
Published: August 2010

It has not been my intention to give an in‐depth study of wallcoverings, but more an appreciation of its development from its early beginnings to the present day. It is hoped, however, that the contents of this summary may encourage the reader to delve a little further into the various areas of interest.

The term “wallcovering” in this article is used to describe all forms of flexible web supplied in roll form for hanging onto walls or ceilings by means of an adhesive.
The Dyeing, Finishing and Performance of Fabrics for Military Uniforms
Authors: Morris John V.
Published: August 2010

The historical background to the evolution of fabrics for military uniforms is reviewed together with some of the dyeing and finishing problems met. Changes from subjective to objective specification requirements following developments in test methods; from direct to indirect acceptance following developments in quality assurance procedures and in procurement are commented upon. Outstanding problems are discussed and recommendations made.
Instrumental Measurement of Fluorescence and Determination of Whiteness: Review and Advances
Authors: Griesser Rolf
Published: August 2010

Fluorescent whitening agents (FWAs) area special class of fluorescent dye. Their physical characteristics are such that special illumination (standard illuminant D65) resembling average daylight is necessary for colorimetric determination. With the aid of this illuminant, modern methods of measurement can determine the visual sensation “whiteness” in quantitative terms as selectively as required for practical purposes

Methods of assessing whiteness should be flexible enough to allow for the particular “whiteness preference” of an observer or group of observers, i.e. a country. There are considerable advantages in relating levels of whiteness to a physically existing white scale — at its simplest it need only span the range of whiteness values encountered in a mill's production range — hence this should always be an objective.

Formulae have been devised for this purpose. An easy‐to‐follow description of the methods based on them is given here. It is a fairly simple matter to adapt existing whiteness measuring systems to these methods, particularly where the necessary computing aids are concerned The results obtainable are well worth the effort. These methods can be used for other substrates besides textiles.

Problems still unsolved and moves to standardize whiteness assessment internationally are also reported.
Colour Reproduction
Authors: Hunt R W G
Published: August 2010

It was in 1935 that the forerunner of today's systems of colour photography first appeared on the market in the form of ‘Kodachrome’ film. This, and other subtractive systems, quickly replaced the earlier additive methods and remain the accepted practice today. The intervening period of nearly 50 years has been one of intense research and improvements have been made in virtually every aspect of the systems. The cyan, magenta and yellow imaging dyes have been improved in their spectral absorption properties, in their light fastness and in their stability to long‐term storage in the dark. The photographic speed of the systems has been increased and the graininess reduced, by better emulsion‐making and coating techniques and by the use of better developers and dye‐forming couplers. The sharpness of the systems has been improved by the use of thinner layers and special additives to control the spatial properties of the images. Very short access times have been made available by special systems that provide automatic processing immediately after ejection from the cameras. Colour television has been developed mainly over the past 25 years and, unlike photography, continues to use additive, rather than subtractive display devices. This is because the photographic disadvantages of additive display (limited resolution and absorption of light) do not apply in television. Recent years have seen attempts to apply television principles to traditionally photographic markets such as amateur photography, by the use of electronic cameras. The electronic systems have the advantage of re usable recording media, but the photographic systems have the advantages of much less costly cameras and higher resolution. Combined film‐electronic systems are likely to provide the highest technological performance in the future.
The Development of Pigment Printing Over the Last 50 Years
Authors: Schwindt W , Faulhaber G
Published: August 2010

With the release of the Aridye system, 46 years ago, the Interchemical Corporation laid the foundations of modern pigment printing with a process characterised by the use of emulsion thickenings and film‐forming copolymer dispersions.

It is a long way from these beginnings to the high technical standard that pigment printing has reached today. Following a definition of pigment printing, its historical development is traced, the advantages and disadvantages of pigment printing are compared and reference is made to the most important ranges on the market.

Four sections describing the product groups used in pigment printing, namely: pigments, binders, thickening agents and pigment printing auxiliaries follow. These deal both with the physico‐chemical principles and with the selection criteria for their practical application. The section on thickening agents includes a comparison of emulsion thickenings and fully synthetic thickeners.

Consideration of the substrates that are suitable for pigment printing, the different printing procedures and the requirements with regard to pretreatment and finishing complete the review.
The Yellowing and Bleaching of Wool
Authors: Duffield P A , Lewis D M
Published: August 2010

The yellowing of wool is a complex phenomenon which is induced by a variety of agencies such as light, heat and aqueous chemical reactions.

Yellowing of wool by light depends critically on the wavelength distribution of the light (u. v. region), humidity and the type of prebleach given to the wool; if fluorescent whitening agents (FWAs) are employed in the bleaching process then the sensitivity to photo‐yellowing is drastically increased. The copious amount of work carried out to overcome this complex situation will be summarised and the important role of the aromatic indole amino acid, tryptophan, will be detailed.

In contrast to photoyellowing, exposure of wool to visible blue light (maximal effect 420–450 nm) promotes photobleaching of the yellow pigments, giving rise to complaints of colour change, especially in wool products dyed to pastel colours.

To remove natural yellowness, chemical bleaching of wool is usually carried out by using hydrogen peroxide, the usage of which should be carefully controlled because of its fibre damaging characteristics. Optimisation of wool peroxide bleaching procedures has therefore been the subject of much work and these studies will be reviewed. Bleaching of wool with reducing agents is often practised either as an alternative to peroxide bleaching or more usually as an aftertreatment of peroxide‐bleached wool to improve the whiteness and stability to light.

Trade practice in the field of wool bleaching has recently been critically reviewed; the results and recommendations of this assessment will be given.

More recently, significant progress has been made in the field of selective dark fibre bleaching and in the bleaching of heavily pigmented wools (e.g. karakul) using methods based on ferrous ion mordanting.
Purple Dyes Made from Shellfish in Antiquity
Authors: Ziderman I Irving
Published: August 2010

Two types of precious purple dye were prepared in antiquity from Mediterranean shellfish. Red‐purple (biblical argaman, ‘Tyrian purple’) was 6,6'‐dibromoindigotin (I, C.I. 75800), made from spiny dye‐murex and rock‐shells. The nature of the other dye, blue‐purple (biblical tekhelet, Greek hyakinthos) has been unclear until recently. The eight proposals advanced during the last 100 years regarding its identity are critically evaluated as to their compliance with the characteristic features historically ascribed to a genuine blue‐purple. It is concluded that the banded dye‐murex, Phyllonotus trunculus, was the authentic source of this ancient dye, which is, accordingly, a violet‐coloured mixture containing two major colorants, I and indigotin (C.I. 73000). The analytical detection of tekhelet is described as is the biochemistry of purple dyeing. Biblical byssus is considered to be white linen rather than purple cotton.
Machinery for continuous carpet dyeing
Authors: Peak H
Published: August 2010

This review gives an outline of the current position of continuously dyed tufted carpets in relation to total world production of all textile floorcoverings.

As the main fibres used are nylon and wool, equipment suitable for continuous coloration of these fibres is discussed.

The reasons for the choice of particular equipment and likely future trends are also noted.
Instrumental measurement and control of colour
Authors: CHONG T F
Published: August 2010

In spite of the fact that the basic method of colour measurement was established more than harf a centuy ago, it is only during the last fifteen years that the application of colour measurement is particularly substantial and significant because of the advancement of computer technology, better understanding of colour science, and the revolution in equipment design. This has brought colour science from a scientific exercise in the research laboratory to a widely used industrial and commercial tool.

The present state of the art of colour measurement is such that an analogy can be made to the measurement of linear dimensions at one time by the relatively crude yardstick, but now replaced by the precisely scaled micrometer. Thus with colour measurement now, colour can be measured with a precision unmatched by the human eye. To‐day, both the colorant industry and colour dependent commerce (industries such as dyes, textiles, pigments, cosmetics, coatings, paper, plastics etc.) are taking advantage of such techniques since the economic advantages are quite substantial. Furthermore, the techniques involved are, to a large extent, no longer trade secrets. The literature abounds with practical theories and concepts which can be applied directly in the workplace by competent colourists. It is expected that more applications of colour measurement for similar general usage are being developed.

This paper is designed to introduce the fundamental concept of colour science and various types of colour measuring instruments and their selection. The value of these colour measuring instruments for practical use in industry and commerce is discussed. Finally, the sources of the technical information and assistance are given.
Compatibility of dyes
Authors: Hoffmann F
Published: August 2010

Normally a combination of several dyestuffs is necessary to obtain a given colour. The behaviour of dyes in admixture is therefore of great practical interest. Level and repeatable dyeings are achieved more easily if dyes of almost equal behaviour in admixture can be selected.

Most fundamental work on dyeing deals with up‐take of single dyestuffs. Papers on dye‐uptake in combination dyeings are comparatively rare. The early literature has been reviewed by Vickerstaff [1] and Peters [2]. At the end of the 60s compatibility values for cationic dyes were introduced [3, 4] and since then they have been used in practice as a criterion for dye selection. Meanwhile several dyelfibre classes have been investigated [5] and similar behaviour in admixture is recognized to be an important requirement of optimised dye ranges.

In this article, papers on compatibility of dyestuffs for uniformly dyeable fibres will be reviewed. Coverage of fibre differences or on‐tone dyeing of fibre blends is not included.