bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Modifications to Improve the Adhesion of Crosslinked Starch Sizes to Fiber Substrates
Authors: Zhu Zhifeng , Cao Shujun
Published: March 2008

This paper describes improvements to starch sizes, both for stability of the viscosity of the hot pastes and for adhesion to fibers. Crosslinking of starch stabilizes the viscosity of sizing paste, but excess crosslinking damages the adhesion to cotton and polyester/cotton blend fibers. The problem with decreased adhesion can be eliminated by cationic modi fication of the crosslinked starch. The effect of cationic modification is present even when the degree of substitution is as small as 0.021. Increasing the extent of cationic modifi cation enhances adhesion. Moreover, cationic modification does not deteriorate viscosity stability.
Determining the Absorption Properties of Split-Type Microfiber Fabrics by Measuring the Change in Color Depth
Authors: Jae Hyung Lee  , Seong Hun Kim  , Kwang Ju Lee  , Dae Young Lim  , Han Yong Jeon
Published: March 2008

When a textile material absorbs a liquid, its color appears deeper than that when it is dry because of the difference in reflectance. The difference in the diffuse reflection between the air and the liquid leads to a difference in color depth between the dry and wet conditions. Using this observation, it is possible to measure absorption weight without a balance. In this research, a spectrophotometer measures these reflection characteristics to ascertain the weight of an absorbed liquid. The textile is a wiping cloth composed of split-type nylon/polyester conjugated multifilaments. The reflectance of the samples is scanned over wavelengths (λ) in the range 400 ≤ λ ≤ 700 nm in the spectrophotometer at intervals of λ = 20 nm. A regression analysis of the results shows a significant (P < 0.05) linear relationship between the absorption weight and the reflective character istics ( K/S value, lightness, and color difference). The correlation of the regression analysis of samples with up to 60% maximum absorption weight is much higher than those with up to 100% maximum absorption weight, and the coefficients of determination in most cases have very high values. Determining the color difference is more useful than the K/S or lightness values because it shows similar absolute values as well as the slopes.
Acrylic and Acetovinylic Polymers for Preserving and Restoring Cotton Textiles
Authors: D'Arienzo L. , Gentile G. , Martuscelli E. , Polcaro C. , D'Orazio L.
Published: March 2008

With the aim of better understanding the phenomena related to the application of polymeric materials on natural fiber textiles for restoration purposes, six commercial polymers based on acrylic and acetovinylic monomers are tested on modem cotton textiles. Cotton samples are impregnated with water dispersions of these polymers. The morphology of the polymeric films formed on the surfaces of the fibers, the chromatic and consolidating effects of the applications, and the adhesive properties of the polymers are investigated. The morphology of the films coating the fibers is independent of the morphology of the fibers constituting the textile substrate. There are no relevant chromatic effects related to the application of polymeric materials on cotton fabrics, indicating that treatments should be compatible with the aesthetic of cotton items. The consolidating effect of application is evaluated on cotton yarns artificially degraded in HCl solution, and depends strictly on the amount of polymer applied. Peel strength values exhibited by cotton samples prepared by compression molding and under vacuum suggest that the most useful adhesive agents are those with a Tg slightly lower than room temperature.
Compression Force Measured by Fiber Optic Smart Cellular Textile Composites
Authors: Bin Yang  , Xiao Ming Tao  , Jianyong Yu  , Hoilui Ho
Published: March 2008

This paper is concerned with a study of compression force measured by smart cellular textile composites integrated with fiber Bragg grating (FBG) sensors. The novel design of the cellular textile composite structures integrated with FBG sensors is reported. Unit cells of a cylindrical composite shell are fabricated from glass and polyester woven fabrics and epoxy, and are used to measure compression loads. When the composite shell unit is under pressure, the axial strain induced in the FBG sensor can be determined by the Bragg wavelength shift obtained from an optic spectrum analysis. A theoretical analysis of the fiber's axial strain focuses on compression load. The influences of environmental tem perature, thickness, and effective moduli of the composites, and position and direction of the FBG sensors are discussed. The sensitivity of this device is 0.42 nm/N (for the polyester composite) and 0.29 nm/N (for the glass composite), and the measurement range is 0-2.1 N (PET) and 0-1.3 N (glass), respectively.
The Mechanism of Crimp Removal in Synthetic Staple Fibers
Authors: Bauer-Kurz Ina , Oxenham William , Shiffler Donald A.
Published: March 2008

Fiber crimp behavior is an important parameter for processing performance and product quality. This study quantifies the mechanical behavior of a fiber during crimp removal. Single fiber tensile tests are performed on various fibers using a Textechno Favimat. Simultaneously, crimp removal is optically monitored. A methodology is developed to identify the true crimp removal region of the fiber load-extension curve during a tensile test. A mechanical model accounting for the nonlinear load-deflection behavior during crimp removal is also developed.
An Experimental Study of the Needled Nonwoven Process Part II: Fiber Transport by Barbed Needles
Authors: Miao Menghe
Published: March 2008

The intended function of barbed needle punching is to transport loose fibers through the thickness of the web to consolidate them into a cohesive fabric. Needle punching inevitably causes some fibers to weaken and even break. Parts II and III will deal with the experimental determination of these changes caused by needle punching. This part of the series reports an experimental technique for determining fiber transfer efficiency by needle punching in terms of the quantity of fibers transported through the needled fabric. The technique includes the steps of placing a layer of coloured fibers in the feed web, collecting surface fibers from the needled nonwoven fabric, and measuring the percentage of colored fibers with an optical fiber diameter analyzer. The technique is used to investigate the effects on fiber transport of some needle loom and feed web conditions.
Relationship Between Fiber Fineness, Break Draft, and Drafting Force in Roller Drafting
Authors: Korkmaz Yasemin Aydogmus , Behery Hassan M.
Published: March 2008

In this study, our objective is to investigate the role of fiber denier in a drafting process by measuring drafting force and sliver irregularity for different fiber fineness values and break drafting ratios. The test materials are 100% polyester fibers with 0.8, 1.0, and 1.2 denier fineness values, manufactured in the same way to control the other fiber properties. The break drafting ratios, the other main factor in this experiment, are 1.07, 1.15, 1.20, 1.31, 1.47, 1.57, and 1.76. Although both main factors are significant, fiber fineness interacts with break drafting ratio to affect drafting force and sliver irregularity. The drafting force increases as the break draft ratio increases up to a maximum, after which it begins to drop, indicating a curvilinear relationship. The interaction of fiber fineness and break drafting ratio shows that each of the fineness values reacts differently, and the maximum drafting force occurs at a different break draft ratio for each fiber fineness. In addition, sliver irregularity has a linear relationship with drafting ratio that significantly interacts with fiber fineness.
Image Analysis for Cotton Fibers Part II: Cross-Sectional Measurements
Authors: Xu B. , Huang Y.
Published: March 2008

Cross-sectional analysis of cotton fibers provides direct, accurate measurements of fiber fineness and maturity, which are often regarded as the reference data for validating or calibrating other indirect measurements of these important cotton properties. Despite the importance, cross-sectional methods of using image analysis have not been broadly applied to cotton quality evaluations because of the tedious procedures for both preparing cotton samples and processing cross-sectional images. This paper illustrates image pro cessing procedures dedicated to cotton cross-sectional analysis for the purpose of increas ing the efficiency and accuracy of fiber separation and feature extraction. These proce dures greatly improve the automation of processing cotton cross-sectional images and increase the number of analyzable fibers per image. The cross-sectional data of cotton fibers also have good correlations with longitudinal data and data from the Advanced Fiber Information Systems.
Predicting the Penetrating Force and Number of Fibers Caught by a Needle Barb in Needle Punching
Authors: Watanabe Akira , Miwa Minoru , Yokoi Teruyuki , Merati Ali Akbar
Published: March 2008

The mechanical properties of needle-punched nonwoven fabrics depend on the fiber entanglement effected by the needles. The needle barbs catch the fibers during punching and lead them into the thickness direction, creating fiber-to-fiber entanglement. In this research, we propose a method to estimate the number of fibers caught by a needle barb. We compare the results of our calculations with experimental data derived from micro scopic observations. Also, we consider the relationship between the number of caught fibers and the penetrating force of a needle barb, and we discuss the relationship between these factors and the tensile properties of the nonwoven fabric.
Influence of Repellent Finishing on the Surface Free Energy of Cellulosic Textile Substrates
Authors: Černe Lidija , Simončič Barbara
Published: March 2008

The aim of this research is to investigate the influence of a fluorochemical repellent treatment with and without an added durable press finish on the surface free energy changes of a cellulosic textile substrate as well as the durability of the finishing agents. For this purpose, contact angles are measured based on the goniometric-sessile drop tech nique. Different theoretical models are chosen to calculate the solid surface free energy and its dispersive and polar components. A statistical evaluation of the results with ANOVA (P < 0.01 ) shows that the values of the surface free energy components of the finished textile substrate depend on a theoretical model as well as the chosen liquid combinations. Coating the textile substrate with fluoropolymer repellents alone and in combination with the durable press finish changes the highly hydrophilic polar cellulosic fabric into an almost apolar low energy solid. Laundering of the finished substrate in a surfactant aqueous solution decreases oil repellency, and a full rearrangement of the fluorocarbon polymer film on the textile surface is achieved after the heat treatment. What is also achieved is excellent durability of the fluoropolymer film on the textile substrate.
Influence of Chenille Yarn Manufacturing Parameters on Yarn and Upholstery Fabric Abrasion Resistance
Authors: Özdemir Özcan , Çeven Erhan Kenan
Published: March 2008

In this study, forty-eight different chenille yarns are produced on a chenille machine using a range of material types, twists, and gauges. In the first group, 4 Nm count chenille yarns are produced with six different pile materials, two different twists, and two different gauges. In the second group, 6 Nm count chenille yarns are produced with the same machine and material parameters. In order to measure the performance of chenille yarns, their abrasion resistance is measured with a chenille yarn abrasion device, and the abrasion resistance of upholstery fabrics made from these yarns used as filling is measured with a Martindale wear and abrasion tester. The results of pile loss are evaluated according to material type, twist, and pile length of the chenille yams. Clearly, there is an improvement in abrasion resistance with increasing twist, gauge (pile length), and the use of natural fibers as pile materials, which may be due to increasing frictional behavior between the pile and lock yarns.
Effect of Heat Setting Temperatures on Tensile Mechanical Properties of Polyamide Fibers
Authors: Vasanthan N.
Published: March 2008

In this study, PA 66 and PA 6 fibers are heat set at temperatures between 25 and 200°C. Fractional recovery ( f) depends on heat setting temperatures and crystallinity, which provides partial crosslinking that delays the onset of the flow regime and increases the time constant of relaxation at a given temperature. Mechanical properties are examined with an Instron tensile tester, and the effect of heat setting temperatures on mechanical properties is correlated with crystallinity changes. The terminal modulus and extension at break show a direct correlation with crystallinity, while there is no noticeable effect on initial modulus with crystallinity changes.
Laboratory Test Methods to Measure Repellency, Retention, and Penetration of Liquid Pesticides Through Protective Clothing
Authors: Shaw Anugrah , Cohen Eva , Hinz Torsten
Published: March 2008

Three laboratory standards are used to measure the performance of protective clothing materials against liquid pesticides. These three standards were compared in a previous study to determine the suitability of the test methods to screen protective clothing materials against liquid pesticides. The results of that study, reported in Part I, showed that fabric performance was affected by the test methods used. For this study, the three test methods are modified so they can be used to measure the performance of fabrics based on different exposure conditions. The gutter method is modified to allow increased contact time between the pesticide formulation and the fabric. An additional volume is added to the pipette method to allow the test method to measure the performance of materials under high and low exposure levels. The atomizer method is modified to allow application of higher volumes and/or concentrations of the liquid pesticide. The results are used to determine the level of exposure(s) that the test methods represent while screening materials against liquid pesticides. Based on the results, the gutter method with a low angle of incline and rate of application as well as the pipette method with a higher volume are suitable for measuring performance for high exposure levels. The atomizer method and the pipette method with lower volume are more suitable for lower exposure levels.
Case-Based Reasoning System for Predicting Yarn Tenacity
Authors: Cheng Y.S.J. , Cheng K.P.S.
Published: March 2008

Case-based reasoning (CBR) is an advanced reasoning technique simulating how hu mans routinely solve problems. There are several steps in CBR: presentation of a new problem, retrieval of the most similar cases from the database of cases, adaptation of the most similar old solutions, validation of the current solution, and updating of the system by adding the verified solution to the database of cases. This study briefly demonstrates how CBR provides a new and alternative approach for understanding the complex rela tionships between fiber properties and predicting their influences on the resulting yarn qualities. This investigation reveals that CBR is sufficiently transparent for spinners to understand how the yarn strength of a particular cotton sample is derived.
Distribution of Power Requirements During Yarn Winding in Ring Spinning
Authors: Tang Zheng-Xue , Wang Xungai , Fraser Barrie
Published: March 2008

A model of a yam package is established for a ring spinning system. The yarn layer, surface area, and mass of the yam package are formulated with respect to the diameters of the empty bobbin and full yarn package, yarn count, and yarn winding-on time. Based on the principles of dynamics and aerodynamics, models of the power requirements for overcoming the skin friction drag, increasing the kinetic energy of the yarn package (bobbin and wound yarn), and overcoming the yarn wind-on tension are developed. The skin friction coefficient on the surface of a rotating yam package is obtained from experiment. The power distribution during yam packaging is discussed based on a case study. The results indicate that overcoming the skin friction drag during yarn winding consumes the largest amount of energy. The energy required to overcome the yarn wind-on tension is also significant.
Predicting Worsted Spinning Performance with an Artificial Neural Network Model
Authors: Beltran Rafael , Wang Lijing , Wang Xungai
Published: March 2008

For a given fiber spun to pre-determined yarn specifications, the spinning performance of the yarn usually varies from mill to mill. For this reason, it is necessary to develop an empirical model that can encompass all known processing variables that exist in different spinning mills, and then generalize this information and be able to accurately predict yarn quality for an individual mill. This paper reports a method for predicting worsted spinning performance with an artificial neural network (ANN) trained with backpropagation. The applicability of artificial neural networks for predicting spinning performance is first evaluated against a well established prediction and benchmarking tool (Sirolan Yarnspec™). The ANN is then subsequently trained with commercial mill data to assess the feasibility of the method as a mill-specific performance prediction tool. Incorporating mill-specific data results in an improved fit to the commercial mill data set, suggesting that the proposed method has the ability to predict the spinning performance of a specific mill accurately.
Performance of Plasma Modified Carbon Fiber Absorbents
Authors: Su Ching-Iuan , Yeh Ru-Shyang , Wang Ching-Luh
Published: March 2008

This research produces a carbon fiber absorbent, using rayon knitted fabric as the precursor and putting it through oxidization, carbonization, and activation processes in a semi-open high temperature furnace, then discussing its absorption characteristics. During the experiment, plasma modification is implemented, and its absorbing effectiveness before and after plasma modification is evaluated through absorption testing by a special toxic gas and SEM surface observations. The results show that a CO2 gas plasma induced reaction of monomer (chromium ion) with the substrate has a better effect on plasma modification. After plasma modification, the absorption of carbon monoxide by the carbon absorbent is about eight times better than that prior to the modification.
Tangential Load Measurements by a Smart Textile Composite
Authors: Yang Bin , Yu Jianyong , Tao Xiao Ming , Ho Hol Lui
Published: March 2008

A cellular textile composite structure integrated with fiber Bragg grating (FBG) sensors is designed for tangential load distribution measurements. The composite consists of many cylindrical shell cells for which a unit cell is fabricated from polyester and glass woven fabrics and epoxy. FBG sensors are bonded on the surface of the cells. The feasibility of using this cellular composite to measure tangential load distribution is demonstrated by experiments. The strain induced wavelength shift in the FBG sensor has a linear relationship with the tangential force within a definite range. Numerical simulations are created by finite element analysis. The influences of the environmental temperature, thickness, and effective moduli of the composite and the influences of the position and direction of the FBG sensors are discussed. The sensitivities of this device are 0.09 nm/N (for PET tension), 0.05 nm/N (for PET compression), 0.04 nm/N (for glass tension), and 0.03 nm/N (for glass compression), and the measurement ranges are 0-±3.43N (PET) and 0-±4.41N (glass). In this measurement range, the system can be used to monitor the tangential load distribution for a large area.
Skin Friction Coefficient on a Yarn Package Surface in Ring Spinning
Authors: Tang Zheng-Xue , Xungai Wang  , Fraser Barrie
Published: March 2008

The skin friction coefficient on the surface of a rotating yarn package affects the power required to drive the package. This paper examines the relationship between the skin friction coefficient on the package surface and its diameter and rotating speed, based on the fundamentals of aerodynamics and the experimental results of power consumption. Skin friction coefficients on the surfaces of an airplane, car top, and yarn package are discussed. The results indicate that the skin friction coefficient on the package surface without hairiness depends on the package diameter and spindle speed only. The skin friction coefficient on the yarn package surface is about three times that on the top surface of a car, and is about twenty times that on an airplane surface. The power consumed to overcome skin friction drag is more than that consumed to drive the spindle if the spindle speed is very slow. However, the situation reverses when the spindle speed is fast.
Water and Oil Repellent and Durable Press Finishes for Cotton Based on a Perfluoroalkyl-Containing Multi-Epoxy Compound and Citric Acid
Authors: Hui Shao  , Sun Jian-Ying , Meng Wei-Dong , Qing Feng-Ling
Published: March 2008

A novel perfluoroalkyl-containing multi-epoxy compound (PFME), designed and syn thesized in our laboratory, is applied to cotton fabrics by the pad-dry-cure process to give durable water and oil repellency by developing permanent covalent bonds to the textile substrate. The specimens pretreated by citric acid are further treated with PFME. The dual finished cotton shows both durable water and oil repellent appearances and durable press properties. The optimum treatment conditions for the dual finishing are discussed.
An Analytical Solution to the Lateral Buckling of an Elastica with Self-Contact
Authors: Jae Ho Jung  , Tae Jin Kang  , Kwan Soo Chung
Published: March 2008

An exact solution to the lateral buckling of an elastic column with self-contact is obtained. By assuming that a counter force exists to maintain the horizontal coordinate at the contact point at the same value as the highest point of the bent beam, we can prevent the shape of the solution from overlapping itself. As the simplest case, we obtain elliptical integral solutions of a laterally post-buckled shape of a linear elastic inextensible column under a concentrated load. For this case, the slope's angle at the contra-flexure point remains constant regardless of the value of the load parameter beyond the minimum critical value. The counter force and several other parameters are expressed in terms of the critical slope angle at the contra-flexure point. Finally, numerical algorithms are suggested for solving the problem, which enable a solution for a nonlinear material or a combined loading case.
Dyes on Archaeological Textiles: Analyzing Alizarin and Its Degradation Products
Authors: Ahn Cheunsoon , Obendorf S. Kay
Published: March 2008

This research investigates the degradation products and pathway of alizarin in selected conditions of accelerated aerobic degradation. The degradation study is a step toward dye identification on badly faded textiles of archaeological origin. The four major degradation products identified through GC-MS analysis are benzoic acid 4, 2,4-di-tert butyl phenol 5, phthalic anhydride 6, and dimethyl phthalate 7. Benzoic acid and 2,4-di-tert butyl phenol are the major products formed upon thermal degradation, while phthalic anhydride and dimethyl phthalate exist in thermal and peroxide/UV treated specimens. Among the four degradation prototypes of this study, peroxide/uv radiation results in the most accelerated degradation, producing phthalic anhydride 6 as its main degradation product. A degrada tion pathway is also proposed.
Influence of Flame Retardant on Manufacturing Carbon Fiber Absorbents
Authors: Su Ching-Iuan , Yeh Ru-Shyang , Wang Ching-Luh
Published: March 2008

A carbon fiber absorbent is prepared using a rayon-based fabric as a precursor, and a composite flame retardant of ammonium sulfate and dibasic ammonium phosphate as a pretreatment agent is used to prepare the carbon fiber absorbent in a continuous three- stage process in a high temperature environment of oxidation, carbonation, and activation. In the experiment, we investigate the effect of the flame retardant on the pore character istics of the carbon fiber absorbent and the removal of the flame retardant residues after treatment. The specific surface area, pore structure, and pore volume of the samples vary with the content of flame retardant, mostly due to increased flame retardant content. In addition, the experimental results show that almost all flame retardant residues can be removed in the chemical rinsing process. Also, most of the residues can be removed with ultrasonic treatment.
Evaluating Fabric Pilling with Light-Projected Image Analysis
Authors: Chen X. , Huang X.B.
Published: March 2008

An innovative method and a device for objectively evaluating fabric pilling grade based on light projection using image analysis is presented in this paper. The method can eliminate interference with pilling information from fabric color and pattern. The device for acquiring light-projected images, detecting the profile of projected images, segmenting pills appearing on converted gray images, extracting of a pill's feature index, and so on are discussed in detail. Pilling grade is assessed by a Kohonen self-organizing feature map neural network. Thirty different kind of pilled fabric samples are trained and tested, and the correlation coefficient between the objective grade and subjective grade is 0.94 for the training samples and 1 for the testing samples. The sample number with ± I grade deviation is 5, so the objective inspection accuracy is 83%.
Pectic Substance in Cotton and Its Relation to the Properties of the Fibre
Authors: Whistler Roy L. , Martin A.R. , Harris Milton
Published: March 2008

Pectic substance has long been known to be present in naturally-occurring cotton fibres. There exist, how ever, at least two divergent viewpoints regarding the lo cation of this substance in the fibre. The difference in these viewpoints has led to very different conclusions re garding the influence of pectic substance on such important properties of cotton as tensile strength, moisture and dye absorption, and viscosity in cuprammonium hydroxide solu tions.

The chief difficulty, heretofore encountered in attempts to evaluate more precisely the role of the pectic substance, has been the lack of a reliable method for its quantitative estimation in the presence of other carbohydrate material. Recently, however, a new method, which permits the accu rate determination of small amounts of uronic acids in the presence of large proportions of cellulose, was developed in this laboratory. This development has made possible the present investigation, which concerns itself with the state of the pectic szcbstance in native cotton fibres, its ease of removal by various reagents, its behavior in cuprammonium hydroxide solutions and its influence on the tensile strength and on the viscosity of cuprammonium dispersions of the cotton.

The results indicate that a pectin-cellulose complex does not exist in cotton fibres and that the pectic sub stance is present as an insoluble salt. The replacement of these ions, under non-hydrolytic conditions, by the mono valent cations, sodium or ammonium, renders the pectic substance soluble.

Cotton freed of pectic substance with alkali showed no change in tensile strength or in viscosity, whereas treatment of the fibre with acids, which removed only a small proportion of the pectic substance, produced an appreciable lowering of these two properties.

When dewaxed fibres were dispersed in cuprammonium solutions, it was found that a small portion remained in soluble and was readily removed in a centrifuge. Analysis of the material showed it to consist practically entirely of pectic substance. Similar results were obtained on fibres which had been pretreated with concentrated hydro chloric acid. Consideration of these results led to the con clusion that the pectic substance does not contribute to the viscosity of cuprammonium dispersions of cotton. Deter minations of the viscosities of cuprammonium solutions to which had been added several samples of pectic material from different sources substantiate this conclusion.
Equipment for Conditioning Materials at Constant Humidities and Elevated Temperatures
Authors: Wiegerink James G.
Published: March 2008

Equipment is described for the study of the mois ture relations of materials in air of controlled relative humidities at elevated temperatures. The air is brought to the desired relative humidity and temperature by an arrangement including a saturator and automatically controlled heaters and then passed through a working chamber in which the materials to be studied can be weighed rapidly and accurately. Provision is made for measuring the rate of flow of air and for accurately de termining the relative humidity in the working chamber.

The equipment has been used at temperatures from 96° F. to 300° F., relative humidities from 10% to 90% for temperatures up to 212° F. and to the maximum rela tive humidities obtainable at atmospheric pressure for temperatures between 212° F. and 300° F. The tem perature in the working chamber can be maintained con stant within ± 0.4° F. and the relative humidity within ± 1% relative humidity for experimental runs of several days' duration.

Data are given illustrating the performance of the equipment.
Moisture Control: Practical Applica tion in Rayon Slashing
Authors: Yelland William E.
Published: March 2008

Results obtained during a study of the sizing of continuous filament bright viscose rayon warps indicated that: (1) Greater uniformity in the regain of sized warps was made possible by means of automatic control of the steam pressure in the dry cans in place of the usual manual control.

(2) A pressure of 7 lbs, to 9 lbs. on six dry cans was szuffi cient to dry a warp of the type used in these experiments to a regain of 10% at a speed of 40 yards per minute.

(3) The pressure required was determined partly by the amount of moisture left in the warp by the squeeze roll. The type and condition of the blanket on the roll was an important factor.

(4) At pressures below 7 lbs. in the dry cans good control was not obtained due to the clogging of the condensate traps in the steam line.

(5) Automatic control was most effective when there were fewest stops during slashing. Warps must be made curefully in order to prevent stops due to crossed ends, cylinder laps, etc., on the slasher.
Simplified Method. for the Deter mination of Refractive Indices of Textile Fibres
Authors: Fox Kenneth R. , Finch Rogers B.
Published: March 2008

A new method of determining the refractive indices of fibres is described which uses as its basis, a photometric match of Becke line intensities emanating from the difference between the maximum and the minimum refractive indices of the fibre and the index of the mounting fluid.
An Instrument for the Study of Com pressional Creep and Creep Recovery of Yarns and Fabrics
Authors: Fox K.R. , Schwarz E.R.
Published: March 2008

A brief outline of previous developments in compression testing of textiles is given and the details of construction of an instrument intended for the study of the compressional creep and creep recov ery of yarns and fabrics are noted. Preliminary results are pre sented to show the characteristics of the instrument. Later papers will discuss specific tests.
The Rôle of Cystine in the Structure of the Fibrous Protein, Wool
Authors: Patterson W.I. , Geiger W.B. , Mizell L.R. , Harris M.
Published: March 2008

Wool is remarkable among textile materials in that it possesses high extensibility and the ability to return to its original length or shape after being stretched or distorted. These properties are of advantage in such products as clothing, blankets, and carpets. It is shown that a number of the important physical properties as well as some of the chemical properties of wool are dependent upon a unique molecular structure, provided by the presence of disulfide or cystine cross-linkages between the main molecular chains of the fiber. As a result, wool fibers possess a three-dimensional molecular net-work while most other textile fibers are composed of bundles of chain-like molecules, arranged more or less parallel to the axes of the fibers.

The rôle of these disulfide cross-linkages is made clear by a study of the behavior of wool before and after alteration of the mode of linkage of the sulfur. For example, the disulfide cross- linkages are readily broken to form sulfhydryl groups by the re ducing agent, thioglycolic acid. The sulfhydryl groups of the reduced fibers readily react with alkyl halides to form thioether groups with two possible results. Thus, the reaction of reduced wool with alkyl monohalides results in permanent rupture of di sulfide linkages and greatly increases the extensibility and decreases the strength of the fibers. The reaction with aliphatic dihalides introduces hydrocarbon chains between pairs of sulfur atoms of cystine molecules in the fibers. Such fibers are very similar to untreated fibers in physical properties.

Wools in which the disulfide linkages have been broken by reduction, or by reduction followed by treatment with alkyl mono halides possesses much higher alkali-solubilities than untreated wool, while wools in which the disulfide cross-linkages have been replaced by new cross-linkages through reduction followed by re action with dihalides possess much lower alkali-solubilities. Since the susceptibility of wool to degradation by alkalies is one of its greatest disadvantages, practical processes that would make it stable at its cross-linkages should also enhance its durability.
Photochemical Reactions in Silk
Authors: Rutherford Henry A. , Harris Milton
Published: March 2008

Silk is more readily deteriorated by the action of light than any other natural textile fiber. While the nature of the deteriora tion has not been clear, it has been known that the rate of decompo sition may be considerably altered by pretreatment of the fiber with solutions of various chemical compounds. For example, silk treated with dilute solutions of basic compounds is more stable toward the action of light than untreated silk, whereas silk treated with dilute solutions of mineral acid exhibits greatly decreased stability under the same conditions.

An investigation by Research Associates of the Textile Foun dation at the National Bureau of Standards of the influence of a number of reagents on the photochemical deterioration of silk now reveals that the rate of deterioration is in part influenced by the cationic content of the silk. The removal of cationic substances, . by two independent methods results in practically identical de creases in the stability of the fibers to light. On the other hand, the stability is readily restored by treatment with basic compounds. Inorganic bases produce a number of undesirable effects, such as a harsh "feel" and a tendency for the cloth to yellow. These effects can be eliminated by the use of any one of a number of different organic basic compounds.

It was further shown that the inaetivation of the carboxylic acid groups of silk by methylation with diazomethane does not ap preciably change the photochemical behavior of the fiber but that the methylation of only a small percentage of the hydroxyl groups of tyrosine results in a marked increase in photochemical stability. The results suggest that alteration of the tyrosine hydroxyl groups by reaction with various reagents is responsible for at least part of these stabilizing effects.
Plastic Bonded Cotton Fiber
Authors: Goldman M.A. , Olsen Gerner A.
Published: March 2008

The authors have stated that the laying of thin bonded sheets of unwoven fibers has progressed to the practical stage. However the data given in this article are based on early experimentation and are presented at this time in the hope of stimulating additional research on the de velopment of moulded plastic with this type of reinforce ment.
Properties of Bubblfil
Authors: Quig Joseph B.
Published: March 2008

Although the idea of entrapping air in viscose fibers, is not new, as evidenced by a patent issued to J. E. Brand enberger in 1921, the development of a practical process for producing a usable material is new. The following article which is condensed from a paper delivered at the meeting of the American Association of Textile Tech nologists held in New York, December 9, describes some of the important uses to which Bubblfil is adapted and compares the qualities of the new product with those of kapok, a critical war material.
Inter-research-the Present Need
Authors: Wickliffe Rose H.
Published: March 2008

Unprecedented expansion of research lends new emphasis to the need of an immediate approach to a solution of broad over-all organization problems. A discussion of ways and means of preventing the escape or pigeon-hol ing of ideas and new discoveries is presented below. This is the first of a series of three articles by H. Wick liffe Rose. The second, "Research and The Patent Sys tem," will appear in an early issue of TEXTILE RE SEARCH. Some of the subject matter of these articles was given by Mr. Rose in an address on "Planning Coopera tive Research and Development"' before the Practising Law Institute in New York, April 19, 1943.
The New Textile Technology
Authors: Schwarz Edward R.
Published: March 2008

Belief in the possibility that man may ultimately succeed in synthesizing the cellular and fibrillar structure characteristic of natural fibers, was expressed by Prof. E. R. Schwarz in an address given May 7 at the joint meeting of the American Association of Textile Technol ogists and alumni of the various textile schools and col leges, held at The Builder's Club in New York. He stated, however, that an exact duplication of nature's structure and physical behavior may not be necessary. Sufficient information as to the relationships between the physical and chemical structure and the various proper ties of the natural fibers may enable man to engineer fila ments that will function in the desired fashion. An abridgment of the address by Prof. Schwarz follows:
Research and the Patent System
Authors: Wickliffe Rose H.
Published: March 2008

Attacks on the patent laws and proposals for revi sion of the patent system appear again to have become popular. However, the importance of adequately assur ing the element of time required for the development of a new process or a new machine can hardly be overesti mated. For this affects noy only the individual research worker and inventor but also the continuity of life for the corporate structure.

In "Research and the Patent System," Mr. Rose dis cusses the workings of the patent system. Part I., which follows, deals mainly with its relationship to the indi vidual inventor, and the question of right of access by the newcomer to the technology in a field fenced off by patent claims. Part II., which will appear in the August issue of TEXTILE RESEARCH, will discuss "Patents and the Corporation."
Vertical or Horizontal?
Authors: Davis H.S.
Published: March 2008

In discussing current cases of vertical organization the following article builds on a comprehensive study of the subject which was sponsored by the Institute and the Tex tile Foundation in the late '30's. The report of this study, titled "Vertical Integration in the Textile Industries," was prepared by the Industrial Research Department, Wharton School, University of Pennsylvania from whom copies may be obtained at a special price of $1.00 per copy—address, 3440 Walnut Street, Philadelphia, 4, Pennsylvania. They may also be obtained from the Tex tile Foundation, 10 East 40th St., New York 16, N. Y.
Unpredictable Year
Authors: Woolf Douglas G.
Published: March 2008

This is an attempt to look into the fu ture—into 1944 and beyond—from the standpoint of textile rescarch. Since the trend of every major phase of tex tile activity depends very largely upon research, this is a summary of the tex tile outlook as a whole.
The Philadelphia Textile Institute
Authors: Rose H. Wickliffe
Published: March 2008

One of the agencies through which re search can be channèled to the industry is the textile school. Recognizing that fact, the Textile Research Institute, Inc., keeps in touch with the programs of the various schools. In recent months, several of them have expanded their plans. We hope to supply from time to time, in these columns, infor mation on those plans. We start the ball rolling with this article about the Philadelphia Textile Institute, the old est textile school in the country.
The Dynamics of Flowing Cords
Authors: Vose R.W.
Published: March 2008

The behavior of fast-running cords is analyzed, with particular reference to the behavior of ropes of cloth encountered in a textile finishing plant. Theoretical formulas are de duced whereby the behavior at any point may be calculated, and from them practical deductions are drawn for direct use by the engineer.
The Story of Coated Fabrics
Authors: Tuttle Francis J.
Published: March 2008

The evolution of methods for the manufacture of coated fabrics has fol lowed a sequence as the three main classes of raw materials became avail able, commencing with vegetable oils and leading to the modern synthetic resins. Much of the current technique follows closely some of the practices de scribed in these articles. The following article deals with the development of oilcloth. Processes for coating textiles with rubber and with the pyroxylin coatings will be described in an early issue of TEXTILE RESEARCH.
Selected Ordinate Method for Interpretation of Spectrophotometric Data
Authors: Stearns E.I.
Published: March 2008

In an effort to standardize the se lected ordinates for use in inter preting spectrophotometric data to determine if camouflage samples pass U. S. Specifications 100-12, the basis of the calculation of a proposed set is presented.
The Growth Factor in Small Business
Authors: Stevenson Earl P.
Published: March 2008

The following article by Earl P. Stevenson, president of Arthur D. Little, Inc., will be of interest to many of our members. It is a paper which was delivered by Mr. Stevenson at a Forum on the Future of Industrial Research sponsored by the Standard Oil De velopment Company in connection with the recent National Chemi cal Exposition held in Chicago. A complete reporting of the papers delivered at this forum appeared in Chemical and Engineer ing News, October 25, 1944.
Country Homes for Research Laboratories
Authors: Foulk W.B.
Published: March 2008

The following article will be of general interest because it illustrates the comparative ease with which a mansion can be converted to meet the requirements for a research laboratory or for educational purposes and because it typifies a movement, accelerated by wartime con ditions, for the utilization of idle estates. It will be of special interest to the members of Textile Research Institute because it describes the alterations, now underway, to our build ing at Princeton which will make it into a modern laboratory devoted to fundamental re search and to graduate training for textile scientists. The author, who is the Institute's building representative, has applied his expert knowledge and long experience in the design and maintenance of scientific laboratories to the planning and execution of the conversion task.
Skin Effect in Viscose Rayon
Authors: Morehead Frederick F. , Sisson Wayne A.
Published: March 2008

The differential staining of the "skin" and "core" of viscose rayon by certain dyes has been previously explained on the basis of a more highly oriented skin. Improved meth ods of staining, developed in the present investigation, show that the formation of a skin is more closely related to the crystallization rate of the cellulose in the spinning bath than to the orientation resulting from stretching. A possible mechanism for skin formation is suggested and the relationship of fiber structure to fiber properties is discussed briefly.
Decreasing the Acid Degradation of Cotton Sewing Thread
Authors: Reid J. David , Mazzeno Laurence W. , Ward Kyle
Published: March 2008

The prevention of the acid degradation of industrial cotton fabrics is a problem of considerable importance, since such degradation often causes serious financial loss. Some data gathered during an investigation of a special phase of the acid hydrolysis which occurs in the cotton sewing thread used to sew paper bags for certain types of fertilizer may prove of help in the eventual solution of the problem.
Measurement of Cotton Fiber Strength by the Flat Taped Bundle Method
Authors: Barnes James C. , Elting John P.
Published: March 2008

The flat taped bundle test as applied to the measurement of the strength of cotton fibers has been modified during the course of several years. The method has proved satisfactory for both routine and research purposes. The techniques and apparatus are described in detail. Some causes of error and factors other than the fiber strength which introduce variations in test results have been investigated and are discussed. The effects of varying bundle width and weight) direction of fibers, jaw pressure and separation, humidity, and type of tape used have been studied. The observed precision of test results and their statistical reliability are presented. A calibration method is described which greatly reduces the effects of several operators.
Active Chlorine Compounds—Their Chemistry and Application
Authors: Chenicek Albert G.
Published: March 2008

Active chlorine compounds form a group of substances capable of many useful reactions. In addition to their well-known bleaching properties, newer compounds of this class are finding unusual and specialized applicatians in the textile industry. It would appear that if the nature of these compounds were better known they would find wider usage in the industry. This article describes the chemistry of some of the known active chlorine compounds.
Discussion of Published Papers
Authors: Katz Sidney , Halsey George , Eyring Henry
Published: March 2008

We are publishing this communication which presents supplementary data from the authors and Mr. Katz in connection with Part III of the series "The Mechanical Properties of Textiles." This paper appeared on page 13 of the January, 1946, issue of TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL.
An Approximate Function for Testing the Significance of Differences According to the "Student"-Fisher t-Test
Authors: Lyons W. James
Published: March 2008

The method proposed in the following paper has been deemed by its reviewers to be suitable for adoption by industrial research laboratories. Although it was not designed specifically for textile applications, in view of the fact that statistical methods are used to a greater or lesser extent in textile laboratories, it would appear that this method should be of interest to textile research personnel.
Wear-Resistance of Apparel Textiles, II
Authors: Kaswell Ernest R.
Published: March 2008

Portion of a research program on the Wear-Resistance of Apparel Textiles sponsored by the Office of The Quartermaster General and the National Research Council, and conducted by the Textile Division of the Massachusetts Institute of Tech nology, Cambridge, and the Fabric Research Laboratories, Inc., Boston, Massachusetts.

Part I, "Tests of Military Fabrics on Quartermaster Combat Course," appeared in the September, 1946, issue.