bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
STABILITY ESTIMATION METHOD FOR ARMOR UNITS FOR BREAKWATERS WITH PARAPETS AGAINST TSUNAMI OVERFLOW
Authors: Mitsui Jun , Kubota Shin-ichi , Matsumoto Akira
Published: February 2019

This paper presents a stability estimation method for armor units to cover a rubble mound on the rear side of a caisson breakwater against tsunami overflow while taking into account the influence of the shape of the superstructures of the caisson. In this method, the required mass of the armor units is obtained from the impinging velocity onto the rear side mound. This is calculated by using the overflow depth. Accordingly, the influence of the shape of the superstructure is taken into account directly. This method also takes the influence of the slope angle into account properly by using the formula by Isbash. In addition, the influence of the impingement position of the overflow nappe and the influence of the thickness of the water jet are considered. The validity of this method is confirmed by comparing with the results of hydraulic model experiments conducted in a wide range of conditions.
WAVE DIFFRACTION AND TRANSMISSION BY A SUBMERGED BREAKWATER
Authors: Filianoti Pasquale G. Fabio , Gurnari Luana
Published: February 2019

The wave field around a rectangular submerged breakwater is investigated by means of an experiment in numerical wave flume. The results were compared with those obtained making use of the Boundary Element Method. The numerical experiment is carried out to determine the share of the incident wave energy that are reflected, dissipated over the roof of the breakwater, and transmitted in the lee. The wave field before the breakwater (i.e. the quasi standing field) obtained with the CFD simulations is quite similar to that obtained with the BEM. Some relevant differences between the two models arise in the lee of the breakwater, because the wave motion is strongly affected by the dissipation occuring over the breakwater roof by friction and wave breaking. They cannot be foreseen with BEM, being the motion ideal. Their analysis show that the dissipation is more than halves the transmission of energy, despite the relevant submergence of the considerated breakwater.
WAVE LOADING FOR RECURVED PARAPET WALLS IN NON-BREAKING WAVE CONDITIONS: ANALYSIS OF THE INDUCED IMPULSIVE FORCES
Authors: Castellino Myrta , Lara Javier L. , Romano Alessandro , Losada IÃ±igo J. , De Girolamo Paolo
Published: February 2019

This paper describes 2-D numerical simulations aiming to reproduce the pressure impulse named confined-crest impact (Castellino et al., 2018), which occurs when a recurved parapet wall and non-breaking wave conditions are interacting. The simulations are carried out by using the IH2VOF and IHFOAM, the latter developed as OpenFOAM additional library. The results show a large increase of the pressures and forces value when the recurved part of the vertical parapet results completely occluded by the non-breaking wave crest. A sensitivity analysis has been carried out to study the influence of the geometrical parameters (radius r and opening angle a). It has been found a low variability with respect to the radius increase (from 1.0 m to 2.0 m) and a higher influence related to the opening angle variation. Finally, the non-dimensional force component has been represented as a function of the hydraulic and geometrical parameters by means of the dimensionless product (l/h)*s. These parameters represent the overhang extension seaward of the parapet, the water depth and the wave steepness with reference to deep-water conditions.
SIMULATION OF SEA STORMS INCLUDING MULTIVARIATE STORM EVOLUTION
Authors: Solari SebastiÃ¡n , Losada Miguel A.
Published: February 2019

A new method for the simulation of storms is proposed which takes into account the multivariate evolution of the storms, allowing to innovate in the form of each simulated storm, for all the variables involved. The method is based on two novel aspects: (a) measured storms are grouped using clusters techniques and a set of average evolution forms is defined for each cluster, one for each of the variables involved, and (b) a Vector Autoregressive model is fitted to the differences between the average evolution of each variable and the actual measured evolutions. The ability of the methodology to properly reproduce the joint probability distribution of all the variables involved is demonstrated for a case study at the mid Rio de la Plata northern coast.
RESPONSES OF CONCRETE VERTICAL WALLS TO TSUNAMI WAVE PRESSURES AND DEBRIS IMPACT
Authors: Kihara Naoto , Kaida Hideki , Shibayama Atsushi , Miyagawa Yoshinori
Published: February 2019

By carrying out a set of experiments on the responses of vertical concrete/RC walls to tsunami impacts, the characteristics of the responses of concrete/RC walls to tsunami impacts were investigated. Experiments on both the responses of walls to only tsunami wave pressure and those to both tsunami wave pressure and debris collision were carried out. In experiments on the responses only to tsunami wave pressure, flexural failure at the base of the wall was observed when the bending moment at the base of the wall was greater than the predicted cracking moment. In experiments on the responses to both tsunami wave pressure and debris impact, flexural cracks and failure at the base of the wall were observed in some cases, and impulsive oscillations whose frequency immediately after debris collision depended on the debris material were observed.
STABILITY EFFECTS OF CUBE ARMOR UNIT PLACEMENT CONFIGURATIONS IN THE BERM OF A BREAKWATER
Authors: YÃ¼ksel Yalcin , Ã‡evik Esin , Van Gent Marcel , Sahin C. , GÃ¼ltekin MÃ¼ge GÃ¼lver , GÃ¼ltekin Cihan
Published: February 2019

For the sake of overtopping, stability and economy, rubble mound breakwaters have been built with a berm in the seaward slope. Here, a breakwater model with cube armour units in the lower slope and a horizontal berm, and rock in the upper slope was tested experimentally. The purpose of the study was to investigate the stability of berms for two different configurations of the transition of armor units from the lower slope to the berm. Based on the test results, an effective configuration of cube units at the transition has been obtained.
MODEL FOR PREDICTING FORMATION OF BLOWOUT ON COASTAL SAND DUNE USING CELLULAR AUTOMATON METHOD
Authors: Yokota Takuya , Kobayashi Akio , Uda Takaaki , Serizawa Masumi , Katsuki Atsunari , Noshi Yasuhito
Published: February 2019

On a sand dune, a blowout is often formed owing to wind effect. The formation of a blowout was observed on November 25, 2016 at the Node coast facing the Pacific Ocean, where a blowout has been formed to leave a concave topography. Then, a model for predicting the formation of a blowout was developed using a cellular automaton method, in which two important factors of saltation and avalanche were taken into account. The results of the numerical simulation were compared with the measured results on the Node coast, and the predicted and measured shapes of the blowout were in good agreement. Also, it was found that the direction of the beach access must be extended in the direction normal to the direction of prevailing wind to prevent blowout formation.
DEFORMATION OF COASTAL PROFILE DURING DIFFERENT STORM PHASES
Authors: Korzinin Dmitry , Shtremel Margarita
Published: February 2019

The aim of the work is to describe the mechanisms controlling the sediment transportation at different stages of the storm cycle including three main phases, namely development, stabilization and attenuation. The resulting morphological effect of the considered storm depends presumably not only on its strength, but also on the relative duration of the destructive and recovery phases. Two full-scale experiments conducted on the Bulgarian coast in 2016 and 2018 provided materials on the shore profile dynamics under conditions of storm waves. It proved that the profile deformations usually considered to be seasonal may happen in the course of a single extreme event of once a year frequency. Field experiment data analysis proved the concept that long mild waves move sediments onshore (cause accumulative profile) and short steep waves create erosional profile with sandbar. In studied case waves steeper than 0.02 create sandbars and milder than 0.02 â€“ transport sandbars onshore. It was observed that in some cases accumulative phase corresponds to decrease of the peak period while mean period stays unchanged, which indicates narrowing of the wave spectrum.
A CLASSIFICATION METHOD FOR THE PRESENCE OF TIDAL SAND WAVES AND MAINTENANCE DREDGING DESIGN
Authors: De Koning Rick , De Vries Jaap van Thiel , Borsje Bas
Published: February 2019

The study into sand wave dynamics in South Channel commenced after large dune forms were observed in monitoring campaigns following the channel deepening project of the Port of Melbourne. The project involved deepening of the harbor berths and channels, but more importantly, it involved the deepening of South Channel in Port Phillip Bay. South Channel, the main shipping channel, crosses the bay over â‰ˆ20km. The growth of bedforms at various locations in South Channel now threatens to impede marine traffic. The dimensions and migration rate of the bedforms in the channel are remarkable, especially in the harsh flow conditions in the narrow channel. Therefore, the bedforms in South Channel cannot be given an obvious classification. In this paper it is shown that the bedforms in South Channel can be classified as a tidal sand wave type with a method that requires only insight in water depth, tidal flow velocity and grain size. Tidal sand waves are large-scale bedforms generated by recirculating flow cells that drive sediment to the top of a crest and are commonly observed on shallow coastal seas such as the North Sea. The bedform concern in the channel illustrates the necessity of an evaluation of the present, and alternative, channel maintenance strategies. A numerical model in Delft3D software is applied, along with a probabilistic calculation that combines insights from the simulations and survey data, to assess different maintenance strategies.
THE IMPACT OF BARRIER ISLAND DEGRADATION ON HURRICANE-INDUCED SEDIMENT TRANSPORT
Authors: Liu Ke , Chen Qin , Hu Kelin
Published: February 2019

Hurricanes are recognized as a strong forcing in changing coastal morphology by redistributing sediments. Barrier islands protect estuaries from storm surge and severe waves and confine water and sediment discharge into estuaries during a hurricane event. In this study, we developed a three-dimensional, fully coupled storm surge, waves, and sediment transport model. The impacts of barrier islands degradation on hurricane hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics were evaluated by comparing a hypothetical model configuration for four major barrier islands in Terrebonne Bay and Barataria Bay against a baseline configuration. With the hypothetical deterioration of barrier islands, model results showed that the sediment transport from the shelf to the estuary increased in Terrebonne Bay but decreased in Barataria Bay. In the simulations, most of the deposition on coastal wetland still originated from the bay even when the barrier islands were degraded.
ON SPECTRUM CALIBRATION FOR NEARSHORE WAVE TRANSFORMATION
Authors: Peng Zhong , Bradon Jill
Published: February 2019

A â€˜shape-focusâ€™ method is proposed for wave spectrum calibration. In this method calibration factors at each frequency bin are derived from measured and modelled data using a least square error approach. Modelled wave spectra are calibrated using the shape-focus method and then applied to a SWAN wave model to simulate nearshore wave transformation. Nearshore wave spectra are then compared with measurements. Results show that spectrum calibration with the shape-focus method improves wave data accuracy significantly for both significant wave height and mean wave periods, thus provides a more accurate solution to calibrating wave spectra for nearshore wave modelling.
GEOTECHNICAL PROPERTIES OF SALT MARSH AND TIDAL FLAT SUBSTRATES AT TILLINGHAM, ESSEX, UK.
Authors: Brooks Helen , MÃ¶ller Iris , Spencer Tom , Royse Kate , Price Simon James
Published: February 2019

Salt marshes and, to a lesser extent, tidal flats, attenuate incoming hydrodynamic energy, thus reducing flood and erosion risk in the coastal hinterland. However, marshes are declining both globally and regionally (the Northwest European region). Salt marsh resistance to incoming hydrodynamic forcing depends on marsh biological, geochemical and geotechnical properties. However, there currently exists no systematic study of marsh geotechnical properties and how these may impact both marsh edge and marsh surface erosion processes (e.g. surface removal, cliff undercutting, gravitational slumping). This has led to poor parameterization of marsh evolution models. Here, we present a systematic study of salt marsh and tidal flat geotechnical properties (shear strength, bulk density, compressibility, plasticity and particle size) at Tillingham, Essex, UK.
REASON OF FIXATION OF MOUTH OF A SMALL RIVER BEHIND NATURAL REEF
Authors: Noshi Yasuhito , Uda Takaaki , Kobayashi Akio
Published: February 2019

The mechanism by which the mouth of a small river is stably fixed in the wave-shelter zone behind an offshore reef composed of natural rocks was studied, taking a small river flowing into the Moriya coast together with two other small rivers as examples. The beach topography around the river mouth and the shape of the stream behind the reef were measured on this coast, and the wave height distribution around the reef was calculated using the angular spreading method, and the reason why the river mouth is stably fixed at this location was considered. Furthermore, the numerical simulation of beach changes using the BG model when an offshore breakwater was installed as a model of a natural reef was carried out to study the longshore change in the berm height. The primary cause for the fixation of a river mouth behind a reef was found to be the decrease in wave height behind the reef, which in turn decreases in the berm height.
SCOUR PROTECTION AROUND A SINGLE SLENDER PILE EXPOSED TO WAVES
Authors: Corvaro Sara , Marini Francesco , Mancinelli Alessandro , Lorenzoni Carlo
Published: February 2019

The study of the scour around a monopile foundation and, in particular, the evaluation of the performance of alternative scour protection systems made of geotextile sand containers (GSCs) are here presented. Different configurations of the scour protection system were experimentally analyzed. The scour protection efficiency has been tested with both regular and random waves. A design dynamic formula for the scour protections is developed based on the stability of the GSC and, hence, on the evaluation of the weight of the geotextile sand container by means of the stability number. A damage level has been defined and related with the modified stability number. The paper provides useful information for the design of the scour protections made of geotextile sand containers, for the evaluation of the performance of such systems in terms of scour reduction, sinking and damage level of the scour protections.
WAVE ENERGY CONVERTER WITH WAVE ABSORBING CONTROL
Authors: Kawaguchi Takashi , Nakano Kunio , Miyajima Shogo , Arikawa Taro
Published: February 2019

The wave absorbing control using wave sensors was theorized and developed by the authors, about 30 years ago. It was originally for absorbing wavemakers for tank tests in laboratories. This control enables wavemakers to generate the desired incident waves while absorbing undesirable reflected waves from the tank wall. When waves are absorbed by the wavemaker, the energy of the waves are also absorbed, that is, the energy is regenerated to electric power with the wavemaker drivemotor. According to this theory, in case that certain waves are generated by an oscillating body, these waves can be absorbed by the same body. Therefore, we can design a wave energy converter as a kind of absorbing wavemaker.
RESONANT OSCILLATIONS IN SMALL CRAFT HARBOURS: OBSERVATIONS AND MITIGATION MODELING EXAMPLES FROM ATLANTIC CANADA
Authors: Leys Vincent , Fernandez Victoria , Kolijn Danker
Published: February 2019

Agitation from swells and long waves can pose serious challenges for harbours, in terms of both infrastructure design and operations. Wave gauge observations from Atlantic Canadian harbours of varying sizes were used to assess how combinations of basin dimensions and external wave forcing may lead to swell agitation, resonance, and scour problems. This paper summarizes how basin resonances were investigated with field observations, analytical methods, and then phase-resolving numerical models. The case studies illustrate how resonance mitigation may require substantial (and sometimes impractical) changes in harbour layout. Swell and scour mitigation may be more readily achieved by modifications or additions to existing structures.
INFLUENCE OF WAVE TRANSFORMATION PROCESSES ON EVOLUTION OF UNDERWATER BEACH PROFILE
Authors: Saprykina Yana , Kuznetsova Olga
Published: February 2019

On the base of field experimental data were confirmed that the main wave parameters for cross-shore sediment transport are the significant wave height, spectral peak period and wave steepness. Waves with narrowband spectrum more effect on changes of underwater profile. For a qualitative assessment of erosion/accumulation the Dean parameter, the Ursell and Iribarren numbers can be used. However the physical processes of wave transformation play an important role. The most significant are nonlinear wave transformation and wave breaking, especially the type of wave breaking.
NEW WAVE HINDCAST FOR THE RIO DE LA PLATA ESTUARY
Authors: Alonso Rodrigo , Santoro Pablo , Solari SebastiÃ¡n
Published: February 2019

This paper present a wave hindcast for the RÃ­o de la Plata Estuary. It was based on the version 5.16 of the numerical wave model WAVEWATCH III Â®, forcing with CFSR winds and considering non-stationary water levels and currents obtained from the hydrodynamic model TELEMAC 2D. A multi-mission altimetry database processed by IFREMER was considered as the ground truth. It was taken as reference to calibrate and validate the wave model, and also to do a local validation of CFSR winds. Tuning the Î“ coefficient of the JONSWAP parametrization of dissipation by bottom friction (Sbot) and the BETAMAX coefficient of the energy input by wind (Sin), it was possible to correct the large negative BIAS in significant wave height (Hs) obtained with the default configuration. The hindcast cover the period 1985â€“2016 providing wave parameters with a spatial resolution of 1 km and a time step of 1 hour and full spectra at a 10 km offshore distance along the coast.
DEPENDENCIES OF BREAKING TYPE, BREAKING CRITERIA AND ENERGY DISSIPATION ON AMPLITUDE-PHASE FREQUENCY STRUCTURE OF WAVES
Authors: Kuznetsov Sergey , Saprykina Yana , Volkova Valentina
Published: February 2019

Type of wave breaking - plunging or spilling - depends on symmetry of waves. The spilling waves are asymmetric against horizontal axis and are practically symmetric against vertical axis so the phase shift between first and second nonlinear harmonics (or biphase) is close to zero. The plunging breaking waves have larger asymmetry against vertical axis, (biphase is close to -pi/2), and near symmetric on horizontal axis (close to saw-toothed form). Non-linear wave transformation influences on depth-induced wave breaking. Breaking index depends on relation of wave energy in frequency range of second nonlinear harmonics to wave energy in frequency range of main harmonic and on biphase. The dissipation rate of spilling breaking waves energy quadratically depends on frequency, while in plunging breaking, this dependency is practically linear for all frequencies.
SEDIMENT DYNAMICS BEHAVIOR AND BEACH PROFILE TYPES BASED ON SEDIMENT PROPERTIES
Authors: Tsujimoto Gozo , Tamai Masahiro , Takano Yasuhide , Yamaguchi Ryuta
Published: February 2019

Sand samples along the shorelines and in the rivers of Tottori Prefecture were assayed for chemical elements using energy dispersive X-ray spectrometer. Samples contained more than 60 wt. % Si, Al, Ca, Fe, Na and Mg less than 10 wt. %. It was found by EOF analysis that Si, Al, Ca and Fe were the significant chemical elements. The spatial variations of first mode of Si are related to sediment dynamic behavior. The transport regime is net accretion when the first mode value of Si is increasing, and net erosion when being decreasing.
EFFECTIVENESS OF GEOTEXTILE TUBES AS A BREAKWATER CORE
Authors: Hidayat Hendra , Andrianto Steven
Published: February 2019

Geotextile Tube is an innovative technology which can be used as the core of a breakwater structure to address shoreline erosion problems. One of the advantages of Geotextile Tubes is the use of sand fill material which is available in most project sites. Another significant advantage of Geotextile Tube system is simple and fast in installation When a filled Geotextile Tube is combined with rocks and concrete armour units, Geotextile Tube Breakwaters become an effective structure in absorbing wave energy thus preventing shoreline abrasion.
MOTION OF SOLID SPHERES UNDER SOLITARY WAVE ATTACK: PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL MODELING
Authors: Guler Hasan Gokhan , Arikawa Taro , Baykal Cuneyt , GÃ¶ral Koray Deniz , Yalciner Ahmet Cevdet
Published: February 2019

In this study, physical and numerical test are carried out focusing on the motion of two solid spheres under solitary wave attack. The numerical model CADMAS-SURF/3D-2F-DEM coupling a multiphase flow solver solving Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes Equations based on a porous body model and a discrete element method solver for Newtonâ€™s equations of motion is validated against the data of physical model experiments carried out in the wave flume of METU Ocean Engineering Research Center. Comparisons of the numerical simulations and physical model experiments show that the numerical model is capable of simulating the motion of solid spheres under solitary wave attack in a reasonably well accuracy.
SIMULATING THE FORMATION OF TIDAL CHANNELS ALONG AN OPEN-COAST TIDAL FLAT: THE EFFECTS OF INITIAL PERTURBATION
Authors: Zhang Ying , Zhou Zeng , Geng Liang , Coco Giovanni , Tao Jianfeng , Zhang Changkuan
Published: February 2019

A state-of-the-art morphodynamic model (Delft3D) was used to explore the effects of bathymetric perturbation on the morphodynamic modeling of tidal channels and flats. Short-term and medium-term modeling results indicate that the two-way interaction of the hydrodynamic forcing and initial perturbation has influence on the evolution of tidal channel ontogeny. There is a critical range of the magnitude of initial perturbation, within which the morphodynamic development tends to be similar. By comparing with the case without initial perturbation, the case with a slight increase in perturbation magnitude can considerably enhance the rate of the morphodynamic development.
NUMERICAL MODELING OF TSUNAMI INUNDATION USING SUBGRID SCALE URBAN ROUGHNESS PARAMETERIZATION
Authors: Fukui Nobuki , Prasetyo Adi , Mori Nobuhito
Published: February 2019

The importance of accurate numerical modeling of tsunami inundation in an urban area has clearly realized due to the devastating damage from 2011 Tohoku Earthquake Tsunami. Although, numerical inundation simulations using high resolution topography data (O(1m)), the medium resolution tsunami inundation model (O(10m)-O(100m)) needs and useful for tsunami hazard assessment. This study develops and validates a numerical model of tsunami inundation using upscaled urban roughness parameterization: Drag Force Model (DFM) which deals with the effect of structures as drag force acting on flow based on physical modeling. The validation of the DFM reveals that the DFM can express the effect of the flow direction and inundation ratio.
COST STUDY OF COASTAL PROTECTION
Authors: Igigabel Marc , Yates Marissa
Published: February 2019

A better definition of the long term protection strategies against littoral hazards requires evaluating investment, management, and maintenance costs of various interventions on levees and other civil engineering structures, as well as on beaches and dunes. The cost study of coastal protections (Cerema 2018) aims at providing the assessment of the project global cost. Based on the study of a large number of projects completed in France, estimations were produced to enhance the reliability of these calculations at the scale of a site in the littoral zone or of an individual natural or artificial structure. For each structure type, the obtained results are essentially linear, surface, volume or mass costs (initial costs or annual average costs), as well as lifetime and intervention frequency. To obtain this information, the analysis mainly consisted of:

â€¢ the creation of a typology which crosses Â« structure type Â» and Â« intervention type Â» which allows establishing homogeneous groups of characteristic operations;

â€¢ the identification, for every group, of physical parameters influencing the associated costs, which allows the user of the manual to evaluate better the difference between the observed high and low values.

This paper presents the context of the study, its methodological process, the progress of the investigations and the analyses, the obtained results, and finally the generic lessons learned.
A METHOD FOR EVALUATING THE MAXIMUM TSUNAMI LOADINGS ON SEAWALLS
Authors: Toriyama Takuya , Azuma Kisaburo , Moritani Hiroshi , Ishida Nobuo
Published: February 2019

A seawall in a nuclear power station is one of the important structures to protect from tsunami. Estimation of tsunami loadings on structures is an important part of the proper design of seawalls. In this study, hydraulic flume tests was conducted to investigate the characteristics of tsunami loadings. Correlations between the loading on a seawall and the Froude number as characteristics of the tsunami flow were investigated. Finally, we proposed a new evaluation method to evaluate the design wave pressure on a seawall. A new evaluation method can predict the design wave pressure on a seawall with taking the characteristics of the tsunami flow into consideration.
DESIGN FEATURES OF THE UPCOMING COASTAL AND OCEAN BASIN IN OSTEND, BELGIUM
Authors: Troch Peter , Stratigaki Vicky , Devriese Peter , Kortenhaus Andreas , De Maeyer Jeroen , Monbaliu Jaak , Toorman Erik , Rauwoens Pieter , Vanneste Dieter , Suzuki Tomohiro , Verwaest Toon
Published: February 2019

The new Coastal and Ocean Basin (COB) located at the Greenbridge Science Park in Ostend, Belgium is under construction since February 2017. The laboratory will provide a versatile facility that will make a wide range of physical modelling studies possible, including the ability to generate waves in combination with currents and wind at a wide range of model scales. The facility is serving the needs in Flanders, Belgium, in the fields of mainly offshore renewable energy and coastal engineering. The COB will allow users to conduct tests for coastal and offshore engineering research and commercial projects. The basin will have state-of-the-art generating and absorbing wavemakers, a current generation system, and a wind generator. It will be possible to generate waves and currents in the same, opposite and oblique directions. The basin is expected to be operational in 2019. This paper presents an overview of the basinâ€™s capabilities, the ongoing work, and selected results from the design of the COB.
COMBINED EFFECT OF RIVER DISCHARGE AND STORM SURGE ON SAFE WATER LEVEL AROUND URBANIZED ESTUARY
Authors: Kim Dong-Hwan , Hong Sung-Jin , Lee Hwa-Young , Kim Dong-Seag , Jung Yong-Han , Kim Heon-Tae , Yoo Chang-Ill
Published: February 2019

Suyeong Bay near Suyeong River, which is a well-known and highly populated area that offers attractions such as Haeundae and Gwangalli beaches, was extensively damaged by Typhoon Maemi in 2003. This region is exposed to the effects of global warming such as super typhoons, sea level rise, and heavy rain. Lowlands near river mouths are particularly vulnerable to the dual effects of flooding from heavy rain and storm surge. Therefore, accurate predictions of the interaction between river discharge and storm surge are crucial for the safety of residents. In this study, numerical simulations of storm surge and flooding were conducted using Advanced Circulation Model for Oceanic, Coastal, and Estuarine Water (ADCIRC) under Typhoon Maemi conditions. The model grid represented the characteristics of the bay and the domain of the Suyeong River basin accurately. In addition, an unstructured grid was used, which was driven by tidal forcing at the open boundary and river discharge at the upriver boundary. The results of this study indicate that the influence of storm surge and river discharge resulted in water levels of more than 0.381 m compared to estimates without river discharge. This study also examined the vulnerability of the river mouth using water elevation data combined with river discharge and storm surge. Interaction of river discharge and storm surge in coastal-inlet areas is essential for assessing water safety and developing a safety index for flood events.
DEVELOPING A SUSTAINED AND COORDINATED U.S. COASTAL RESEARCH PROGRAM
Authors: Elko Nicole , Lillycrop Jeff , Haines John , Stockdon Hilary
Published: February 2019

To address societal needs along the coast, a community of researchers from Federal agencies, academia, industry, & NGOs are developing a National science plan. The goal is to identify and address research priorities through better coordinated Federal activities to enhance funding sources, strengthen academic programs, and build a skilled workforce. This abstract describes a grassroots effort, initiated by researchers, that has led to meaningful engagement from the coastal community and swift action to build a National plan. The effort began in Mar 2014 when academic & Federal researchers, convened the Future of Nearshore Processes Workshop to develop a research vision to address societally-relevant coastal science challenges. They organized science needs in three broad research themes, 1) long-term coastal evolution 2) extreme events and 3) human and ecosystem health, identified a need to strengthen science infrastructure (e.g. observations and modeling) and recommended creation of a U.S. Coastal Research Program and Nearshore Advisory Council (NAC) to support the vision (Nearshore Processes Community 2015).
IMPACT OF SEA LEVEL RISE ON THE ACCESSIBILITY OF COASTAL PORTS: A CASE STUDY OF THE PORT OF ZEEBRUGGE (BELGIUM)
Authors: Kolokythas Gerasimos A. , De Maerschalck Bart , Vanlede Joris , Chu Kai
Published: February 2019

The effect of sea level rise on the hydrodynamic flow in the Belgian coastal zone is investigated in the light of the nautical accessibility of the port of Zeebrugge in Belgium. To this end, numerical simulations are performed considering three different scenarios of sea level rise along with a reference scenario (current situation). Specifically, a moderate, a warm and a worst case scenario of sea level rise (SLR) equal to 60 cm, 90 cm and 200 cm by the year 2100, are considered. The main objective is to find out how the strong tidal currents, which are mainly directed transversely to the access channel and limit the access to the port to a certain tidal window, will be affected by the considered SLR scenarios.
ENVISIONING COASTAL FUTURES: EXPLORING ALTERNATIVE SCENARIOS FOR THE US PACIFIC NORTHWEST COASTLINE
Authors: Ruggiero Peter , Bolte John , Evans-Wilent Janan , Parker Kai , Schwartz Cynthia , Serafin Katherine , Stevenson John
Published: February 2019

Sea level rise (SLR), changing storminess patterns, and development have exposed coastal communities to chronic coastal change and flooding hazards. Several U.S. Pacific Northwest communities are at high risk from coastal hazards and local decision makers often lack tools for developing adaptive capacity to increase resilience, particularly under climate change. Several sectors (e.g., local community groups, emergency managers, and land use planners) have recently begun to define responses to perceived increases in the frequency and magnitude of coastal hazards. Here we describe the efforts of a group of Oregon State University researchers and students, outreach specialists, and coastal community members in both Tillamook County, OR and Grays Harbor County, WA who are assessing climate change impacts and associated evolving community and ecosystem resilience.
ADVANCING COASTAL ENGINEERING IN US HIGHWAYS
Authors: Douglass Scott L. , Krolak Joseph , Beucler Brian , Webb Bret M.
Published: February 2019

Transportation systems along the coast need integration of coastal engineering principles and practices in their planning, design, and operation. The Federal Highway Administration (FHWA), with statutory authority allowing consideration of â€œextreme events,â€ develops technical engineering guidance and professional development training focused on highways in the coastal environment.
PORT EVERGLADES SAND BYPASSING: AN IMPORTANT FUTURE SAND SOURCE FOR SOUTH FLORIDA
Authors: Creed Christopher G. , Sharp Nicole S. , Howard Steven C.
Published: February 2019

This paper will describe the history, planning, design, and construction of a new sand bypass project at Port Everglades Inlet in Broward County, Florida, USA. The sand bypass project will address one of the most significant remaining inlet sand management needs in Florida. The discussion will focus on the importance of the sand bypass project to the future sustainability of beaches in South Florida where beach nourishment sand from traditional sources has been depleted. The paper will also highlight the highly complex physical, environmental, and socio-political conditions that have guided the planning and implementation of the project.
ADAPTATION TO A CHANGING CLIMATE IN THE COASTAL ZONE â€“ A CASE STUDY OF PRIME HOOK NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE
Authors: Tabar Jeffrey R.
Published: February 2019

Prime Hook National Wildlife Refuge and its adjacent water bodies are important natural features along western Delaware Bay, USA. Historically salt and brackish marsh habitats, portions of the Refuge were diked and managed as freshwater impoundments starting in the early 1980s. Over the past decade, some of these impoundments have reverted to saline conditions, largely due to several storm events (including Hurricane Sandy in 2012) that have caused flooding, erosion, and opened several breaches between the Refuge and Delaware Bay. Because of these significant morphologic changes, the United States Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) completed a series of surveys and coastal engineering analysis to aid in developing restoration alternatives for managing the Refuge. As part of this effort, seasonal shoreline surveys were conducted in the fall of 2011 through the spring of 2017 to provide a temporal span of data for evaluating the rapid retreat.
MODELLING PARAMETERS AND IMPACTS OF FOUR EXTRATROPICAL CYCLONES UNDER FUTURE CLIMATE SCENARIOS
Authors: MÃ¤ll Martin , Nakamura Ryota , Shibayama Tomoya , Suursaar Ãœlo
Published: February 2019

Coastal zone is among the most vulnerable areas of the Earth to global warming, firstly, due to anticipated mean sea level rise, and secondly, regarding changes in storm activity. In Europe, much of the high-impact weather events are associated with extratropical cyclones (ETC). It is highly possible that tropical cyclones will get stronger under future climate conditions, however projections for ETC-s are still far more mixed. The study at hand is an improved extension to that of MÃ¤ll et al. (2017) where the authors aimed to study how an individual extreme storm (2005 Gudrun) would change under future climate conditions. The main aim is to learn whether the similar results are found for four different (tracks, thermal conditions) ETC-s under improved methodology and homogenous initial and boundary conditions in order to decrease uncertainty and draw stronger climatological generalizations. The study area is the Baltic Sea region and more specifically Estonia.
NORTH BRETON ISLAND RESTORATION, DESIGNING TO INCREASE A BARRIER ISLANDâ€™S HABITAT AND LONGEVITY
Authors: Utku Murat , Emmanuel Gary B. , Poff Michael
Published: February 2019

The product and purpose of a well-planned program of investigation and design will be realized later this year when restoration construction begins on North Breton Island. North Breton Island is the southern-most of a chain of barrier islands forming the Chandeleur Islands. The barrier island formation lies within the Mississippi River delta plain system approximately 62 miles southeast from the metropolitan city of New Orleans, LA. Under the authority of the Natural Resource Damage Assessment (NRDA) process, NRDA Trustees selected enhancement of North Breton Island as part of the 2014 Deepwater Horizon NRDA Phase III Early Restoration Plan to help restore injuries to natural resources (Trustees, 2014). The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) is the lead implementing agency for this Project. The Project includes restoring the barrier shoreline along the entire length of North Breton Island through beach, dune, and marsh fill placement utilizing an offshore sand source in the Borrow Area located approximately 3.3 nautical miles (NM) east of the Restoration Area in the Gulf of Mexico.
COMPREHENSIVE STUDY AND MONITORING PROGRAM FOR BEACHES AT VIÃ‘A DEL MAR CHILE
Authors: CarriÃ³n BenjamÃ­n , GarcÃ­a Rolando
Published: February 2019

On August 8th 2015, an extreme storm event affected central Chile. Significant wave heights up to 5.0 m at a depth of 20m were estimated in front of ViÃ±a del Mar. Beaches suffered massive erosion and relevant damage to coastal infrastructure occur (Figure 1), jeopardizing the touristic industry of the city. These episodes motivated the execution of the largest comprehensive study and monitoring plan ever done on the littoral system of ViÃ±a del Mar. The study considered reviewing historical records, hydrological analysis of the related river basins, several bathymetric and topographic surveys, sediment samples, measurements of waves and currents, monitoring cameras for field recording and extensive numerical modelling.
LIVING SHORELINE DESIGN USING NUMERICAL AND PHYSICAL MODELS TO CREATE A PUBLIC PARK IN EUCLID, OHIO
Authors: Boshek Margaret , Lira-Pantoja Alejandra
Published: February 2019

The shoreline of Euclid, Ohio consists of silty-clay cliffs that are naturally eroding into Lake Erie, supplying sediments to the littoral system. Updrift stabilization and entrapment of sands along the shoreline have led to accelerated deterioration of Euclidâ€™s cliffs along a thousand meter stretch of lakefront. Due to the cliffsâ€™ unstable nature and privately held ownership, long stretches of shoreline are inaccessible and only a few property-owning residents have visual access to the lake. Through state funding and creative negotiations, the City of Euclid and SmithGroupJJR were given permission to create a recreational waterfront park using both hard and soft engineering techniques designed to dynamically adapt to the forces of Lake Erie and not impede natural littoral transport. A series of numerical and physical modeling studies were undertaken to optimize a natural design that will remain stable throughout extreme events. This design married revetments, headland habitat beaches, offshore breakwaters, vertical structures, submerged structures, tee-groin breakwaters, recreational sand beaches, and natural plant stabilization techniques to achieve a stable, resilient waterfront park that can be enjoyed by the public.
BLUFF STABILIZATION AND PROTECTION ON THE GREAT LAKES; A CASE STUDY
Authors: Farber David T. , Weitzner Heather
Published: February 2019

The focus of this project was to design a shoreline remediation system that would stabilize and protect an eroding bluff on Lake Ontario. The significance of this project is the innovative techniques utilized to stabilize a 100-foot-high, almost 45Âº angle bluff from the erosive forces caused by waves, wind, groundwater, and rain. Geosynthetics, blown on compost material, and the installation of an irrigation system were all tools that were utilized for bluff stabilization, while an armor stone revetment was used to protect the toe of the bluff. This project may be used as an example for other shorelines experiencing similar bluff failure and erosional issues.
PROTECTION SERVICE OF CORAL REEFS AND MANGROVES IN THE COASTAL ZONE OF PUERTO MORELOS, MEXICO
Authors: Castillo Mireille Escudero , CasarÃ­n Rodolfo Silva , Baldwin Edgar Mendoza
Published: February 2019

Social awareness of preserving the future of the environment has led to a worldwide interest on the evaluation of the ecosystem services to protect the coastal zones. The analysis presented here focuses on the coastal zone of Puerto Morelos, on the Mexican Caribbean. The area is a Protected Marine Area and an Area of Mangroves with Biological Relevance (CONABIO, 2015). The peaceful natural environment and the beautiful turquoise sea make this a desirable tourist location.
BARBADOS NATIONAL COASTAL RISK INFORMATION AND PLANNING PLATFORM A SOFTWARE SYSTEM FOR HAZARDS, VULNERABILITY & RISK
Authors: Taylor David , Williamson Derek , Kaur Harprit , Macintosh Kevin , Brewster Leo , Roach Ramon
Published: February 2019

The Barbados National Coastal Risk Information and Planning Platform (NCRIPP) is a study nearing completion to quantify coastal risk and develop a software system to serve this information country-wide. The NCRIPP follows extensive coastal baseline studies and includes assessment of eight hazards, vulnerability assessment and finally a risk assessment. The software platform is a cloud-based system that includes a large catalogue of assets, hazard overlays, and the ability to calculate damages , and mitigation alternatives.
REPLACING NAVD88: THE EFFECTS OF VERTICAL DATUM MODERNIZATION ON COASTAL ENGINEERING
Authors: Kinsman Nicole , Youngman Monica
Published: February 2019

The United States (US) National Geodetic Survey (NGS) will be replacing the North American Vertical Datum of 1988 (NAVD88) with the North American-Pacific Geopotential Datum of 2022 (NAPGD2022). NAVD88 is still the official vertical datum of the NSRS at this time, but it is in need of improvement; it is both biased (by about one-half meter) and tilted (about 1 meter coast to coast) relative to the best global geoid models available today. This issue stems from the fact that NAVD88 was defined primarily using terrestrial surveying techniques at passive geodetic survey marks. For access, users must often collect hours of Global Navigation Satellite System (GNSS) data, or rely on our nationâ€™s network of passive survey marks, which is not fully stable (consider areas of subsidence such as the Mississippi River delta) and is deteriorating over time. Maintenance of these marks requires significant resources and vertical motion of marks is not tracked in a systematic way. A modernized vertical reference frame will primarily rely on GNSS such as the Global Positioning System (GPS) in combination with an updated and time-tracked geoid model. This paradigm shift will result in improvements to the National Spatial Reference System (NSRS) that will provide users with enhanced access, easier maintenance, and more consistent coordinates for precise positioning activities nationwide.
PORT ADAPTATION TO SEA LEVEL RISE: LESSONS FROM PRESENT EXAMPLES OF LAND SUBSIDENCE
Authors: Esteban Miguel , Takagi Hiroshi , Fatma Dyah , Mikami Takahito , Valenzuela Paolo , Avelino Erick , Crichton Richard , Jamero Laurice , Chadwick Christopher , Onuki Motoharu
Published: February 2019

According to the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change 5th Assessment Report, or IPCC 5AR (2013), sea level is rise (SLR) could be in the order of 26 to 98 cm by 2100. However, more onerous predictions, such as those set forth in recent probabilistic process-based models by Kopp et al. (2017), or Bars et al., (2017), indicate that SLR could be almost in the order of almost 3m by the end of the 21st century. As a result of sea level rise a number of authors have stated that many ports and coastal communities would be forced to relocate or attempt expensive adaptation countermeasures (Yamamoto and Esteban, 2016). However, most of the forecasted problems and their knock-on consequences on coastal communities remain hypothetical, despite a number of past examples of relative sea level rise due to earthquake induced subsidence or groundwater extraction (Jamero et al, 2016, 2017, Takagi et al., 2016, Esteban et al., 2017). In order to better understand the consequences of future sea level rise the authors have analysed the effects of two instances land subsidence that have taken place in the 20th and early 21st century, and the adaptation measures that ports and other low-lying areas have adopted in the northern Japanese region of Tohoku following the 2011 Earthquake Tsunami, and Jakarta in Indonesia (where groundwater extraction has been inducing rates of subsidence of 10-20cm per year in several parts of the city, Takagi et al, 2017). To date, the authors are not aware of any other work that has systematically attempted to learn from real examples of land subsidence as a proxy to study the effects of SLR on ports, despite a number of calls for more research to be done on the subject (Becker et al., 2013).
FOCUS ON ECOLOGICAL IMPROVEMENTS IN THE DESIGN OF A BEACH STABILIZATION PROJECT
Authors: MacIntosh Kevin , Agardy Tundi , Logan Seth
Published: February 2019

Baird harnessed the latest technology to improve the beach while minimizing environmental impacts and improving habitat wherever possible at a west coast location in Barbados. Baird used an Echoscope to precisely map bathymetry, living reef, and voids in relic reef. Following numerical and physical modeling, underwater structures for beach stabilization were specifically designed to accommodate coral transplants and lab grown corals. This first phase of shoreline stabilization creates new opportunities for enhancement, training, and education. Subsequent monitoring of biodiversity will measure the rate of reef recovery. Turbidity monitoring, as well as rainfall and surface run-off rates, will provide much needed information regarding the relative impacts of wave sediment resuspension and surface run-off on coral health.
A METHODOLOGY TO PRIORITIZE INVESTMENTS TO REDUCE RISKS IN PORTS
Authors: Castillo Carmen , GalÃ¡n Ãlvaro , Balmaseda Raquel , DÃ­az Ana MarÃ­a , Calcerrada Elena
Published: February 2019

In many countries worldwide, a strong economical effort in the construction of coastal infrastructures has already been faced. Nowadays, due to the financial crisis, most of the efforts are devoted to the conservation and maintenance of coastal structures instead of building new ones. Furthermore, the expected variations in sea level and met-ocean conditions due to climate change modify the stochastic nature of both wave loading and structural response which is different nowadays from that at the time the structures were designed. These facts encourage the coastal engineering community towards the development of reliable risk management and decision-making tools. A key point in the decision-making process is how to prioritize investments when deciding about adaptation or mitigation alternatives. This paper aims at providing a proposal including tips to select among the possible alternatives based on risk analysis and how each alternative modifies the risk level compared to the do-nothing alternative. An example on a Spanish port will be provided for better understanding.