bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Measurement of the Needle Heat Generated during the Sewing of Wool and Wool-Nylon Fabrics
Authors: Frederick Edward B. , Zagieboylo Walter
Published: March 2008

A procedure for measuring the temperatures reached by sewing-machine needles during high-speed sewing is presented along with a quantitative evaluation of the effectiveness of several sewing finishes in reducing needle heat. It is shown that the use of sewing finishes on fabrics made of blends of nylon and wool can effectively reduce needle temperatures substantially below the melting point of nylon and thus prevent needle encrustation during production sewing of these fabrics.
National Cotton Council of America Proceedings of the Fourth Chemical Finishing Conference
Authors: Compton Jack , Martin W.H. , Word B.H. , Barber Richard P.
Published: March 2008

The papers in this issue comprise those given at the first day's session of the Fourth Chemical Finishing Conference of the National Cotton Council of America, held at Atlantic City, N. J., September 20-21, 1955. The remaining papers will appear in the February issue. A reprint of the entire proceedings, bound in a cover, will be dis tributed through the National Cotton Council.
Certain Physical Properties of Selected Samples of Chemically Modified Cottons 1
Authors: Grant James N.
Published: March 2008

Measurements are given on certain physical properties of fibers and yarns for cottons which were chemically modified by mercerization, ethylamine decrystallization, aminiza tion, carboxymethylation, acetylation, and cyanoethylation. The changes in physical properties are shown to be affected by the type of modification, the extent of reaction, and the tensional forces on the yarns during the treatment. A spread in the per cent change was found when untreated cottons with their natural noncellulosic constituents were chemically treated under controlled conditions.
Improved Weather Resistance by Acetylating Vat-Dyed Cotton
Authors: Berard W. Norbert , Gremillion Samuel G. , Goldthwait Charles F.
Published: March 2008

Cotton has been made unusually resistant to degradation by weather by first dyeing it with certain light-stable vat dyes and following this with partial acetylation. Vat dyeing alone or partial acetylation alone do not make cotton significantly more resistant to deterioration by sunlight than undyed fabrics, except for a few colors which do have a protective effect. However, when these two processes are combined, excellent re sistance to solar radiation is added to the excellent mildew- and rot-resistance of partially acetylated cotton. Data were obtained on a number of individual vat-dyed and vat-dyed and acetylated cotton materials that had been exposed to outdoor weathering. From the results of these tests, it is estimated that the combination of vat dyeing with light fast colors and acetylating may more than double the outdoor service life compared to cotton vat dyed only, or acetylated only, with somewhat better color retention when the cotton has been both dyed and acetylated.
A Theory of Flame-Retardant Finishes
Authors: Gottlieb Irvin M.
Published: March 2008

A survey of the newer flame retardants suggests a simple theory for their constitu tion. The molecule should be water-insoluble to achieve durability in laundering. A solvent-soluble organic molecule is therefore proposed. The ortho-phosphate group should be present in the molecule to dehydrate catalytically the cellulose substrate. The molecule should contain polymerizable groups to effect a permanency of finish. The molecule should contain halogen or other groupings to reduce the flammability of the gases of decomposition. The necessity to reduce this flammability is shown in anomalous results obtained with the Vertical-Bunsen test method. This is one of the failures of several treatments. The influence of other factors such as fabric weight and finish is discussed.
Influence of the Fiber Structure on the Nitration of Native Cellulose
Authors: Miller Bernard , Timell T.E.
Published: March 2008

The nitration of native cotton cellulose has been investigated under both rate- and equilibrium-controlled conditions and in a manner that caused the least possible changes in the original fine structure of the fiber. By successive extractions the nitrates were subdivided into a number of fractions, which were examined for chemical composition and molecular weight, the fractionation being continued until swelling became noticeable.

The results indicated that the specimens studied were chemically nonuniform and more so the lower the average degree of substitution. Products formed in an equi librium-controlled reaction or regenerated from solution were more homogeneous than similar ones obtained under rate-controlled conditions or with the original fiber structure left intact. The nitration involved an initial, rapid but only partial conversion of the surface and outer regions of the microfibrils of the cellulose, followed by a slower but more complete esterification of the interior, more crystalline portions, the easily ac cessible, short-chain parts being less substituted than the remainder of the material. In this respect nitrates were accordingly found to be different from most other cellulose derivatives.
Studies of the Dyeing of Nylon with Acid Dyes
Authors: Atherton E. , Peters R.H.
Published: March 2008

The rate of uptake by nylon of nine acid dyes and 21 binary mixtures thereof have been determined at pH 3 and 75° C. using infinite dye bath conditions. The results have been analyzed by a modified diffusion equation in which the flux of dye is assumed proportional to the gradient of activity of the dye on the fiber. This equation enables the adsorption of two dyes to be treated and leads to the result that the uptake of dye 1 is proportional to that of dye 2, a fact which is confirmed by the experimental data. The slope of a graph of the uptake of dye 1 versus dye 2 is related to the ratio of the diffusion coefficients, the affinities of the dyes for the fiber, and the concentrations of the dyes in the bath. Using diffusion coefficients deduced from the rate of uptake of the dyes taken singly, the affinity difference of each binary pair has been calculated. The results obtained are discussed with reference to affinity data on the same dyes obtained by desorption techniques.
Trouble Shooting in Textile Processing by Use of the Brush Uniformity Analyzer
Authors: Bernet E.J. , Dunn George Z. , Harris William C.
Published: March 2008

There are many mechanical faults in cotton processing which may cause periodic variations in the resulting yarn, roving, or sliver. Each of these defects causes a particular pattern of thick and thin places in the resulting material. An eccentric part (roll or gear) on a drawing, roving, or spinning frame results in a wavy pattern of thick and thin places in the material. The pattern formed in the material by a flat spot in the top roll is dependent upon the position (front, second, third, or back) on the particular frame. A flat spot in the back roll position has very little effect on the resulting material. In the third roll position (four roll frame) it yields a thin place directly followed by a thick spot, while a defective front roll causes periodic thick places in the material.

Defective bottom rolls on the drawing frame affect the sliver differently, depending upon the position on the frame. Defective drafting rolls used primarily as delivery rolls have a greater effect on the resulting material than defective rolls used primarily as feed rolls. Most of these mechanical faults have a particular pattern which can be distinguished by proper use of the Uniformity Analyzer.

There are certain settings (pen average, pen sensitivity, chart speed, and material speed) which can be used on the Brush Uniformity Analyzer to assist in the search for periodic variations. The particular setting to use when searching for periodicities is generally dependent upon the distance between the expected periodic variation. For closely spaced periods (3 to 10 in.) in the material, a fast chart speed (25 mm./sec. or 125 mm./sec.) and the pen average at position 0 or 1 is generally used. A slow chart speed (5 mm./sec.) and the pen average at position 2 or 3 will illustrate longer periodic variations. The pen sensitivity control is generally used to increase the amplitude of the variations on the chart after the pen average and chart speed have been selected.
Effect of Alkaline Hydrolysis on the Properties of Cyanoethylated Cotton
Authors: Mazzeno Laurence W. , Reinhardt Robert M. , Reid J. David , Dickson John B.
Published: March 2008

Cyanoethylated cotton has been subjected to treatment with excess 1% aqueous sodium hydroxide at temperatures of 22°, 60°, and 97° C. Rates of cleavage of cyanoethyl groups at these temperatures have been determined. Resistance to rotting is destroyed by re moval of part of the cyanoethyl groups. Heat resistance is decreased by the alkaline treatment, but only to the extent that nitrogen is removed. It appears that heat resistance is directly proportional to the nitrogen content regardless of the previous history of the sample. Dyeing characteristics, measured by a differential staining technique, show reversion to the color of untreated cotton even though only half the nitrogen is removed.

Physical properties are not adversely affected by alkaline hydrolysis. Tenacity in creases as groups are cleaved but does not return to the original value of the gray yarn. This is the usual case with other cellulose derivatives. The knot strength data do not indicate brittleness. Hydrolysis has little effect on elongation.
Physical Properties of Chemically Modified Cottons
Authors: McDonald Allan W. , Humphreys Geraldine C. , Orr Rollin S. , Grant James N.
Published: March 2008

Yarns manufactured from samples of the same six cotton varieties discussed in the previous paper were partially acetylated to an acetyl content of approximately 24% while held under tension. Certain physical properties of the component fibers, fiber bundles, and yarns were then measured. The changes in most properties were found to be associated with differences in the cottons and the acetyl contents. The averages for breaking loads and tenacities of the fibers were decreased while their linear densities and secant moduli were increased. Breaking loads, linear densities, and secant moduli of the yarns were increased. Elongation of the yarns at break was decreased, while tenacity remained essentially unchanged. The changes were greater for some cottons than for others; whether the changes were advantageous or disadvantageous would depend somewhat upon the use to which acetylated cotton is to be put.
The Characterization of Spinning Quality
Authors: Bogdan J.F.
Published: March 2008

Four parameters characterizing spinning quality are described and determined for a set of yarn strength data by a method developed from one which was first proposed by F. T. Peirce. The skein break of any yarn number at any twist can be calculated for any fiber if these four parameters are known.
Random Tumble Pilling Tester
Authors: Baird E.M. , Legere L.C. , Stanley H.E.
Published: March 2008

A new type of tester for pilling tendency is described in which apparel fabric speci mens are tumbled inside a rubber-lined cylinder in the presence of a small amount of cotton lint. The fuzz and pills formed in this process correlate well both in amount and appearance with those formed during wear on garments from the same fabrics.
The Reaction of Formaldehyde with Cellulosic Fibers
Authors: Woo H.K. , Dillon J.H. , Dusenbury J.H.
Published: March 2008

The effects of an acid-catalyzed formaldehyde treatment on such mechanical proper ties as breaking strength and crease recovery have been determined for three cellulosic fabrics: cotton, Fortisan, and viscose rayon. Samples of these materials, treated under a selected set of conditions, were compared with three "controls": untreated fabric, fabric treated with distilled water under the conditions of the formaldehyde treatment, and fabric treated with the acid solution used in the formaldehyde treatment under the same conditions. The two-dimensional load-elongation behavior of the fabrics was investi gated, and comparisons were made with the results of corresponding one-dimensional tests. The mechanical properties of single fibers and yarns taken from the variously treated fabrics were also measured.

In general, cotton fabrics showed a deterioration in mechanical properties due to formaldehyde cross-linking with respect to the acid-treated control, while correspond ingly, Fortisan and viscose rayon were improved by such treatment. In the case of cotton fibers and fabrics, it was found that the formaldehyde treatment had reduced the fiber and fabric elastic moduli with respect to the acid-treated control, although the formaldehyde treatment had also reduced correspondingly the fiber and fabric breaking strains. The deterioration in mechanical properties caused by hydrochloric acid was most marked in the case of Fortisan. It was found that generally the properties of single fibers, yarns, and fabrics are closely related.

The improvement in crease recovery caused by the formaldehyde treatment was great est for cotton, less for Fortisan, and least for viscose rayon. These different responses to the cross-linking reaction appear to be related to the different states of internal order of the three cellulosic fibers. Crease-recovery tests carried out on all the variously treated fabrics showed that marked improvements in crease recovery were usually ob tained only with those treated at an initial pad-bath pH of 2.0, which indicates that a high degree of cross-linking of the hydroxyl groups in the amorphous regions of the fibers is necessary to achieve high degrees of crease recovery.
The Effect of Nuclear Radiation on Fibrous Materials
Authors: Teszler Otto , Rutherford Henry A.
Published: March 2008

Dacron polyester filaments of different draw ratios were prepared and were exposed to high-energy radiation from two sources. Exposure both in a reactor and to a Cobalt-60 source resulted in an increase in the moduli of elasticity of the filaments. This indicated that cross-linking reactions took place and predominated over chain scission, particularly during the early stages of irradiation. Draw ratio, i.e., the degree of orien tation of the filament, had an influence on the behavior. The materials of lower draw ratio tended to show more cross-linking than those of high draw ratio, the optimum being between 2.5:1 and 3.0:1. The degree of cross-linking in Dacron under the conditions of these experiments was, however, of a low order of magnitude. The solubility of the filaments was decreased only slightly, and the melting point remained unchanged. The degree of crystallinity of the filament did not influence the behavior of the filaments.

Although the work has not yet been extended to many other polymers, it is believed that materials which show a marked tendency to cross-link during exposure to high- energy radiation would show an effect similar to Dacron. For example, polyethylenes of different degrees of orientation or of different pretreatments might well behave quite differently with respect to changes in properties brought about by a given level of radi ation. This has been partially substantiated by some preliminary results obtained with polyethylenes of unknown history, but at the same time known to be different in character prior to irradiation.
Stress-Strain Relationships in Yarns Subjected to Rapid Impact Loading
Authors: Smith Jack C. , McCrackin Frank L. , Schiefer Herbert F. , Stone Walter K. , Towne Kathryn M.
Published: March 2008

If a textile yarn segment, clamped at each end, is impacted transversely at the mid point, the stress-strain curve for this yarn can be obtained from measurements on a high speed photographic record of the yarn's motion. This paper describes the apparatus and procedure used. Stress-strain curves for high rates of straining, of the order 5000%/sec., obtained by this method are given for high tenacity nylon, Fortisan, and Fiberglas. Comparison with stress-strain data obtained at conventional rates shows that these mate rials have higher initial moduli, and that their stress-strain curves remain linear up to higher stress values, when the testing rate is high. The breaking tenacities are slightly greater and breaking elongation slightly smaller at these high test rates.
Polyvinyl Alcohol as a Warp Size for Various Staple Yarns1
Authors: Abrams Edward , Rougeux Charles W. , Coker James N.
Published: March 2008

Polyvinyl alcohol has been evaluated as a warp size for cotton, Dacron 4 polyester staple yarn, and blends of Dacron staple with cotton and viscose rayon. Under simu lated weaving conditions, superior sizing performance on all these yarns was given by completely hydrolyzed, high viscosity product. This type of polyvinyl alcohol also proved to be effective as an extender for various sizes based on starch or modified starch. The size formulations tested are described.
Modification of Wool with Monofunctional Isocyanates
Authors: Moore Joseph E.
Published: March 2008

The reaction of wool with ethyl, octadecyl, phenyl, and α-naphthyl isocyanates under anhydrous conditions is described. At low uptakes these reagents confer marked re sistance toward solubilization in hot acid; increasing uptakes reduce the felting shrink age and impart stability to degradation by alkali and oxidizing and reducing agents.
Polyamine Resins for Finishing of Hydrophobic Fibers
Authors: Valko Emery I. , Tewro Giuliana C.
Published: March 2008

A finish designed to protect textiles in use against accumulation of static must possess hygroscopicity, high ionic concentration, and resistance to washing and drycleaning. Polyelectrolytes deposited from aqueous solution and cross-linked on the fiber are capable of fulfilling these requirements. Polyamines cross-linked by alkylation with polyhalides were selected to study the correlation between structure and antistatic per formance. The gelling time of the polyamine/polyhalide mixture in vitro supplied an excellent indication for the suitability of the reactants to form durable antistatic finishes on the fiber. Some correlation between the degree of polymerization and branching of the polymers and their antistatic performance was established. The new class of poly amine resins promises to be a useful addition to available textile finishes.
Recent Developments in Cotton Finishing with Acetal Reactants
Authors: Irvine J.B. , Cronin T.J. , Davids J.H.
Published: March 2008

An acetal cellulose reactant which imparts high crease resistance to fabrics is dis cussed. Determination of optimum conditions of application in the laboratory are fol lowed by discussion of several applications in textile mills.

A catalyst which permits low temperature rapid curing of acetal reactants is also discussed. Results of textile mill usage of the catalyst are given.

An efficiency factor relating crease resistance increase to tensile loss is suggested.
Study of Improvement of Smoothness of Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Goldthwalt Charles F. , Kirby Rosa D. , Fretwell Sam , Wiehart Hans
Published: March 2008

An exploratory research has sought the most promising ways of imparting a high degree of durable smoothness to cotton cloth. This work, limited to laboratory pro cedures, has resulted in finishes characterized by different degrees of smoothness, of luster or glaze, and of durability. Smoothness was very well retained in the best of these finishes and can be considered permanent, although luster decreased gradually upon washing. Some of these finishes seem readily adaptable to lining and other apparel fabrics. The work was based on the use of an experimental calender and largely upon the calendering of cloth while it was wet, in a state of swelling greater than that from mere wetting with water. There would be difficulties in practical opera tion if the water in the cloth contained dissolved finishing agents or if the cloth was too wet. Objections have been partially met by preswelling, washing, padding the wet cloth in a softening and fixing agent, and then drying before calendering. Promising for further investigation is close control of moisture content of the cloth at the time of calendering, at levels between those of present practice and values attained in this re search. A range of 15-40% regain in cottons treated as described, but only partially dried before calendering, is suggested. Higher calender temperatures and pressures should also be considered.
Imparting Crease Resistance and Crease Retention to Cotton With APO
Authors: Drake George L. , Guthrie John D.
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabric (80 × 80) was made crease resistant by processing with APO, tris(1-aziridinyl)phosphine oxide. Application was made by wetting the fabric with an aqueous solution of APO containing catalytic quantities of zinc fluoborate, squeezing out the excess with squeeze rolls, drying for 4 min. at 80-90° C., and curing for 4 min. at 140° C., followed by a good wash. An aftertreatment with a 1% Primenit VS2 solu tion increased the crease recovery angle. Monsanto crease angles of from 250° to more than 300° (warp + fill) have been obtained, depending on the resin add-on. The crease recovery is not changed much by home laundering. A loss of 30% in the Elmen dorf tearing strength was observed with samples with over 300° crease recovery angles. Creases durable to washing were obtained by drying the fabric with a hand iron followed by an oven cure. The resin could not be stripped from the fabric by methods that are effective with other resins. In addition to imparting crease resistance, this resin also imparts some degree of flame resistance.
Mechanical Behavior of Cyanoethylated Cotton Textiles
Authors: Conrad Carl M.
Published: March 2008

A rather detailed study has been conducted at the Southern Regional Research Laboratory, as well as at other places, on the textile properties of cyanoethylated cotton. For the most part the studies have been concerned with improvements in rot and heat resistance and a comparison of such improvements with those resulting from acetylation of cotton. In the course of these studies various mechanical properties have been measured. These include breaking strength, knot strength, tearing strength, ultimate elongation, tensile and flexural stiffness, toughness, elastic recovery, wrinkle recovery, and flex and flat abrasion resistance. While many of these data have been published, they are in most cases reported incidentally and with little effort at completeness. The results are expressed in varying units, thus limiting their ready comparisons. Finally, they are widely dispersed in many papers, thus not readily accessible. It is the purpose of the present report to assemble the mechanical data on fibers, yarns, and fabrics; to express them in consistent units ; and to interpret them in terms of degree of cyanoethyl substitution, conditions of reaction, textile products involved, and fine structure of the fiber. The report also points out the still unexplored areas of chemical substitution, textile product, and conditions of treatment which are in need of further study if an adequate picture of the mechanical behavior of cyanoethylated cotton is to be provided.
The Action of Copper Ammines on Wool
Authors: Whewell C.S. , Ashworth J. , Srinivassan V.R. , Vassiliadis A.G.P.
Published: March 2008

When wool is immersed in solutions of metal ammines, metal is adsorbed and the fibers contract. There are also interesting changes in the x-ray photographs of the fibers. Data are given for the absorption of copper from several copper ammines by untreated and chemically modified wools. The mechanism of the reactions involved is discussed. The effect of the absorbed copper on the physical properties of the fibers is also considered, special attention being given to the moisture relations and the setting characteristics of metal-containing fibers.
The Effect of a Surface Barrier on Uptake Rates of Dye into Wool Fibers
Authors: Medley J.A. , Andrews M.W.
Published: March 2008

It is shown that any surface barrier to the entry of a dye into a fiber must modify the form of the uptake-time relation, the barrier exerting its greatest influence in the early stages of sorption, but becoming progressively less important as sorption proceeds. This is manifested by an initially concave-upwards tendency in the uptake-timel curve. The analysis, which takes account of variable diffusion characteristics of fibers forming the ~asemhly, is applied to the uptake of Naphthalene Orange G by wool, and a small but definite effect is found, which could for instance be attributed to the epicuticle.
Stress-Relaxation and Permanent Set in Keratin Fibers
Authors: Feughelman M. , Mitchell T.W.
Published: March 2008

Variation of force with time in water for single wool and hair fibers stretched at both 10% and 40% extension was measured at various temperatures between 20° C. and 100° C. It was shown that at 100° C. and 40% extension the force after 1 hr. (the remanent force) was mainly elastomeric, and that between 60° and 70° C. a second order transition occurs for the stretched wool fiber in water. Chemical treatments which accelerate or retard the ability of a fiber to permanently set also reduce or in crease the value of the remanent force in the fiber.
The Silver Staining Method for Cross Sections of Regenerated Cellulose Fibers
Authors: Kato Koichi
Published: March 2008

A staining technique is discussed which has been presented as an alternate method for differentiating the skin-core effect of viscose rayons. This technique, using silver nitrate solution, furnishes good results, generally corresponding to those obtained by the usual methods employing normal dyes. The staining, however, proceeds in a quite different manner from these dye methods, thus suggesting a different mechanism.

Several cellulosic rayons have been examined and a number of factors have been evaluated regarding their influences upon the silver staining. The staining in question is chemical, immediately associated with the accessible reducing end groups in cellulose; therefore it is possibly a measure of the degree of accessibility of regenerated cellulose fibers.
The Influence of High Energy Radiation on Cotton
Authors: Pan Huo-Ping , Proctor B.E. , Goldblith S.A. , Morgan H.M. , Naar R.Z.
Published: March 2008

Sliver lap, yarn, and fabric made of the same raw cotton of known composition were irradiated with cathode rays under various conditions. Changes in the chemical and physical properties were investigated. Some yarns also were irradiated with gamma rays. The changes that occurred in these samples were found to be the same as those in samples irradiated with cathode rays. Data for the copper number, the methylene blue number, and the intrinsic viscosity indicated that degradation of the cathode ray irradiated yarn had taken place. A new absorption maximum was found in infrared spectrograms of the cotton irradiated at high dose levels. Direct-dye affinity of the irradiated fabric was similar to oxycellulose.

The tensile strength of the yarn decreased with the amount of dose it received. However, at low levels the tensile strength was found to increase to a maximum before it started to decrease; a "natural curve" of tensile strength and a "natural curve" of toughness were defined.

Microbiological tests showed that both yarn and fabric were sterilized by a dome of one megarep. A general increase in mildew resistance was noted in irradiated samples compared with unirradiated samples. '
Part III: 2-Thiobarbituric Acid Test for Degradation
Authors: Pan Huo-Ping , Proctor B.E. , Goldblith S.A.
Published: March 2008

Raw cotton irradiated with cathode rays was found to form color compounds with 2-thiobarbituric acid (TBA) in acidic solutions. The color intensity of the test solution was derived from cellulose and the minor constituents of raw cotton.

A test method was evolved from this finding based on the measurement of the ab sorption at 449 mμ. The color of the test solution is stable and the results of the test are reproducible; the test method is direct and rapid to perform. The results of this test compared well with those of the tests of tensile strength, copper number, and in trinsic viscosity. A proposed cotton TBA index is defined.

Microbiologically deteriorated cotton is also sensitive to this test.

The possibility of using this test for the rapid determination of chemical damage to raw cotton and other substances that contain cellulose as the major constituent is suggested.
Carbonizing Investigations
Authors: Crewther W.G. , Pressley T.A.
Published: March 2008

Eighty-eight nonionic surface active agents, all containing polyoxyethylene as the hydrophilic group, and some anionic and cationic agents have been tested in the labora tory to determine the extent to which they protect wool from loss of tensile strength during carbonizing. Nonionic agents in which the lipophilic portion consists of poly oxypropylene provided little protection even at the highest concentrations tested, whereas nonionic agents containing an alkyl or aryl hydrocarbon group were generally effective. With the latter compounds, the length of the polyoxyethylene group influenced the optimal concentration of the reagent. Anionic agents were ineffective at low concen trations; cationic agents were comparable in their effects with nonionic agents.
Infrared Study of Oxidized Keratin
Authors: Stein Herman H. , Guarnaccio Julia
Published: March 2008

The infrared spectra of oxidized human hair, callus, and wool were examined. An absorption band at 9.6 μ was observed in the spectra of all the oxidized species, whereas the untreated keratin did not absorb at that wavelength. The nature of the group responsible for the band is not clear, but it was established that infrared absorption by keratin at 9.6 μ is a specific test for a prior oxidative treatment.
A Kinetic Study of the Supercontraction of Wool Fibers in Solutions of Salts, Acids, and Alkalies
Authors: Crewther W.G. , Dowling L.M.
Published: March 2008

Wool fibers contract in hot solutions of acids or alkalies, the initial rate of contraction increasing with increasing concentration of the acid or alkali. At the higher concentra tions contraction is followed by elongation of the fibers to lengths which may exceed the original length. The maximum contraction obtained decreases with increasing con centration of acid or alkali used. Comparison of the rates of contraction of wool fibers in solutions of different salts in 1 or 4 N HCl shows that cations and anions fall in the fol lowing order of decreasing contraction rate: Li+ > Na+ > K+ and I- > Br - > Cl-. Kinetic curves for the contraction of wool fibers in 1 N HCl containing salts show well- defined two-stage contraction. With 4 M LiBr or NaI this appears as a shelf in the curve at 25-30% contraction, and with many fibers the final level of contraction exceeds 70%. With 5 or 6 M LiI or 6 M NaI the fibers contract by about 25%, elongate to a length which may approach the original, and then again contract; in such solutions a con siderable proportion of the wool protein is dissolved, leaving a sulfur-rich residue. Two-stage contraction kinetics have been observed only when using solutions with pH values in the lower range. As the pH is increased the rate of contraction also increases, particularly at pH values greater than about 8.

The two-stage contraction kinetics have been interpreted in terms of the contraction at different rates of two structures in the wool fiber.
Thermal Effects in Tire Cord Materials
Authors: Wood J.O. , Goy R.S. , Daruwalla F.S.
Published: March 2008

Consideration is given to the effect of heat on the strength and dimensional char acteristics of typical tire textile materials. The dimensional change in a hot-stretched nylon cord is divided into two components: the change in filament length and the lateral packing of the filaments.

Dimensional changes are also related to the elastic behavior, to the shrinkage forces, and to the creep characteristics of the cord.

The generality of the thermal effects is demonstrated by data obtained using a range of textile fibers.
Advancing Frontiers of Nylon and Dacron Polyester Fibers
Authors: Nebel R.W.
Published: March 2008

Several examples of what is believed to be typical of the principal direction of evolution of thermoplastic fibers are given—i.e., the development of special nylon and polyester fibers that, while retaining their basic fiber qualities, will be tailored for specific end-use applications. The preparation of these special fibers has been accom plished by making use of the thermoplastic nature of nylon and polyesters. By changing the manufacturing process, a nylon staple fiber has been developed that has a load- elongation curve similar to that of cotton; blends with cotton containing only 25% of this nylon showed an average improvement in fabric life of 70% over that of cotton alone. Another modification of nylon is designed specifically to give carpets a luxurious hand with soil and crush resistance, intrinsic durability, and freedom from fuzzing or pilling; this specially engineered fiber has a selected denier, roughly triangular cross section, and a curvilinear crimp. The use of a sewing thread of Dacron specially prepared so that it will elongate when ironed has greatly alleviated the problem of seam pucker in garments. Finally, a lightweight nylon tricot fabric with excellent covering power and handle can be obtained by Schreiner calendering 20-den. nylon tricot fabric and then finishing it by beck-working.
An Empirical Method for Estimating the Degree of Crystallinity of Native Cellulose Using the X-Ray Diffractometer
Authors: Segal L. , Creely J.J. , Martin A.E. , Conrad C.M.
Published: March 2008

An empirical method for determining the crystallinity of native cellulose was studied with an x-ray diffractometer using the focusing and transmission techniques. The influence of fluctuations in the primary radiation and in the counting and recording processes have been determined. The intensity of the 002 interference and the amor phous scatter at 2θ = 18° was measured. The percent crystalline material in the total cellulose was expressed by an x-ray "crystallinity index." This was done for cotton cellulose decrystallized with aqueous solutions containing from 70% to nominally 100% ethylamine. The x-ray "crystallinity index" was correlated with acid hydrolysis crys tallinity, moisture regain, density, leveling-off degree of polymerization values, and infrared absorbance values for each sample. The results indicate that the crystallinity index is a time-saving empirical measure of relative crystallinity. The precision of the crystallinity index in terms of the several crystallinity criteria is given. Based on over 40 samples for which acid hydrolysis crystallinity values were available, the standard error was 6.5%.
An Instrument for Study of Friction and Static Electrification of Yarns
Authors: Zaukelies D.A.
Published: March 2008

An instrument for measuring the friction and static electrification of moving yarns has been designed, constructed, and tested. The instrument allows measurements to be made on yarns over a wide range of speeds under a practically constant predetermined tension. The instrument also has applications for measurements of certain yarn me chanical properties. Some static electrification and friction studies are discussed. These have revealed some interesting effects which are not yet fully understood, such as reversal of the sign of transferred charge with change of speed and the unusually plastic behavior of nylon yarns in moving contact with surfaces.
Stress-Strain Response of Fabrics Under Two-Dimensional Loading
Authors: Klein William G.
Published: March 2008

The general philosophy of biaxial testing is discussed and several criteria estab lished for the performance of such tests. Existing testers have been evaluated in the light of these criteria and shortcomings pointed out. A tester developed in 1952 and embodying the more important principles is described, and some selected results are presented to indicate the possible scope of operation. Subsequent publications will be concerned with analysis of data on mechanical fabrics.
The Heat Transmission of Fabrics in Wind
Authors: Niven C.D.
Published: March 2008

The thermal transmission of various combinations of fabrics was measured on the hot plate in winds around 17 m.p.h. under conditions simulating to some extent those often present when outdoor clothing is worn in winter. Figures are tabulated which prove that winter overcoats could be immensely improved by use of semineoprene coated nylon cloth and goosedown for cold windy weather. A conventional winter overcoat for men is shown to be quite inadequate, while the pile fabrics without wind- proofing are equally disappointing.
A New Replica Technique for the Study of Fabrics and Other Surfaces
Authors: Rhett Berry W.
Published: March 2008

The Silastic replica technique provides a new, unique, and simplified means for the replication and examination of fabric streaks, pile fabrics, and other surfaces. The basic technique is extremely simple and requires no special equipment. It depends on the properties of the silicone rubber, Silastic, produced by the Dow Corning Corporation. This material, received as a liquid, sets up at room temperature, upon the addition of a catalyst, to a smooth, rubbery, fine textured, nontacky film in approximately 30 min. The Silastic produces a replica of the sample fabric that will not only automatically classify the streak, but will also permit microscopical examination and photomicrography of the streak at a relatively high magnification. This material has also proved useful for replicating surfaces of other materials such as godets, draw pins, etc., which are inaccessible for microscopical examination of their surfaces.
Reaction of Epoxides with Cotton Cellulose in the Presence of Sodium Hydroxide
Authors: McKelvey John B. , Webre Beverly G. , Klein Elias
Published: March 2008

The reactions of various commercially available epoxides with cotton cellulose in the presence of sodium hydroxide have been investigated at 25°, 50°, and 95° C. The effects of solvents and alkali content of the yarn steep on the epoxy add-on have been studied.
The Development of Washable Non-Iron Effects in Pure Wool Fabrics
Authors: Farnworth A.J. , Lipson M. , McPhee J.R.
Published: March 2008

The use of reducing agents for setting wool has been extended to give washable non-iron effects on pure wool fabrics. Initially this was accomplished by applying the Si-Ro-Set process to garments made from shrinkproofed wool. This led to flat setting of fabrics in the mill by applying a dilute solution of a reducing agent to the fabric fol lowed by immediate steaming on a blowing machine.

When preceded by shrinkproofing, this method of setting gives excellent washable non-iron effects on pure wool fabrics. Garments made from fabric treated in this way showed satisfactory laundering and wear performance in practical trials.
The Relation of Wet and Dry Crease Recovery to Wash -Wear Behavior
Authors: Steele Richard
Published: March 2008

The chemical changes in cellulose fiber which lead to various wet: dry crease re- , covery ratios are reviewed. Covalent cross-linking of a dry fiber enhances both wet and dry recovery, and the ratio of the two values is believed to depend on the relative accessibilities of the fiber to water and to the cross-linking reagent. Water-sensitive links between cellulose chains can give high dry and low wet crease recovery. Cross- linking reactions carried out when the fiber is wet and swollen lead to a higher degree of intrachain reaction, which is equivalent to substitution, and to some interchain cross links. The swelling of such a fiber in water leads to good wet crease recovery, although the dry recovery is not improved.

To achieve good tumble-dry wash-wear behavior, both wet and dry crease recovery must be increased In line- and drip-drying, the we crease recovery has more sig nificance than the dry.
The Plasticity of Wool
Authors: Whiteley K.J. , Speakman J.B.
Published: March 2008

Differences of substance among various wools play an important part in determining their suitability for use in manufacturing different types of fabric, and quality in wool cannot be assessed by measuring only the dimensional characteristics of the fibers.
Aldehyde-Ethylenimine Reaction Products as Finishes for Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Chance Leon H. , Perkins Rita M. , Reeves Wilson A.
Published: March 2008

In an exploratory study the reaction products of ethylenimine with four aldehydes were evaluated primarily as wash-wear finishes for cotton fabric. Two dialdehydes, glyoxal and glutaraldehyde, and two α,β-unsaturated monoaldehydes, acrolein and crotonaldehyde, were used in the study. One of the new finishing agents, the reaction product of acrolin and ethylenimine, imparted good wrinkle recovery to cotton fabric.
Shrinkproofing of Wool with Neutral Permanganate or Acid Bromate in Concentrated Sodium Chloride Solution
Authors: McPhee J.R.
Published: March 2008

Two shrinkproofing processes of possible industrial value are described. Each may be used continuously or as a batch process.

Treatments are with neutral permanganate (4-6% potassium permanganate on weight of wool) or acid bromate (1-2% potassium bromate on weight of wool) in concentrated sodium chloride solutions, the latter resulting in a chlorination which is more easily con trolled to give even treatment than simple acid chlorinations. Batch processes are carried out at 20-40° C. in normal mill equipment, total processing times being 1-2 hr. Each process produces shrinkproofed wool at relatively low cost with no adverse effects of practical significance, although the acid bromate treatment requires a final softening. Permanganate/salt treatment requires no analytical control, causes no problems with fumes, gives even treatments so that there is no difficulty in piece dyeing after shrink- . proofing, and does not yellow or alter the handle of the wool.
Electrical Conduction in Keratin
Authors: Algie J.E. , Downes J.G. , Mackay B.H.
Published: March 2008

The increase in electrical conductivity of keratin fibers after the application of an abrupt change of the relative humidity from 0 → 90% RH has been examined as a function of time. A comparison of these results with regain vs. time, for the same experimental conditions, indicates that the water inside a fiber is not initially in a state which facilitates conduction. It is proposed that the slow rise of conductivity is due to the formation of a hydrogen bonded network which allows the passage of protons under the influence of the applied electric field.
An X-Ray Study of Acetylated Jute
Authors: Roy S.C.
Published: March 2008

X-ray results for progressively acetylated jute fibers are described. The diffraction pattern of partially acetylated jute has certain features in common with that of a similarly treated pure cellulose fiber such as ramie or cotton, but the intense equatorial reflection characteristic of the acetyl cellulose appears to be absent in it. At highest acetyl content, the x-ray photograph of jute is closely similar to that of cellulose triacetate I, and the transformation to the new lattice appears as complete as in a pure cellulose fiber. The two large spacing equatorial reflections Ax and Ay show improved sharpness and in tensity as well as increased spacing on the partially acetylated jute diagram but are absent in the fully substituted one. The results are discussed in the light of the structure of jute.
Behavior of Sample Pleated Strips of Wool Fabric in an Extensometer
Authors: Holdaway H.W.
Published: March 2008

The simple theoretical model previously considered [1] was inadequate in some respects to provide a complete account of the observed elasto-mechanical behavior of a pleat when extended. Factors now included are the radius of curvature at the pleat and the variation in fabric stiffness as a function of tension. The use of additional parameters to take account of these effects permits a very good description of the ob served behavior. Values of "initial pleat angle" and "initial fabric stiffness" can be determined from experimental results of longitudinal extension and lateral deflection as a function of load.
Experiments on Wool from Copper-Deficient Sheep
Authors: Burley R.W.
Published: March 2008

It has been confirmed that wool from copper-deficient sheep has a faster rate of extension in water under constant load than normal; it has been found that this wool has a greater diameter swelling in formic acid and is more easily penetrated by certain large reagent molecules than normal.

The dissolution in aqueous buffer solutions of copper-deficient and normal wool after oxidation has been examined and further evidence that the copper-deficient wool is deficient in a sulfur-rich protein fraction, whose absence may he responsible for its physical abnormalities, has been obtained.
Factors Influencing the Cohesion of Worsted Yarns
Authors: Barella A. , Miró P. , Crespo R.
Published: March 2008

In the present paper the different factors influencing the cohesion of worsted yarns, expressed as minimum twist of cohesion, are examined. The study involves (a) the influence of the testing conditions, (b) the influence of fiber parameters, and (c) the influence of the treatments undergone by the fiber.
Relationship Between Fiber Properties and Fabric Wrinkle Recovery1
Authors: Daniels W.W.
Published: March 2008

This research was undertaken to obtain a better understanding of the role of fiber properties in determining fabric wrinkle recovery. For a variety of fibers a one-to-one correspondence was found between fabric crease-angle recovery and a modified tensile recovery parameter, i.e., the average value of tensile recovery (over the range of strains imposed during creasing) measured against a restraining force related to the coefficient of intertiler friction. From this index of recovery, it was predicted that fabric bending recovery would tend toward zero with decreasing strain (increasing radius of crease curvature). Such behavior was observed in the fabrics of nylon and Dacron 2 polyester fiber subsequently studied. The tensile recoveries under load, effective frictional re straints, and qualitative fabric-recovery features are presented. The results reported here indicate that the predominant fiber properties controlling fabric recovery can be determined without recourse to a complete mathematical treatment. Consideration of a simple, idealized model showed interfiber friction to be a property which must be con sidered in order to obtain even a qualitative description of the mechanism of fabric recovery from deformations involving small strains.
The Torsional Properties of Single Wool Fibers
Authors: Mitchell T.W. , Feughelman M.
Published: March 2008

An apparatus is described for the direct measurement of torque-twist relationships for single wool fibers. Calculation of the rigidity of a dry fiber (0% relative humidity) agrees with results obtained by Speakman, who used a torsion pendulum technique. However, this latter technique is shown to give an underestimation of the rigidity of the fiber at 100% relative humidity. This discrepancy is explained as being due to the hyperbolic relationship between the torque and twist of a single fiber. Measure ments were also carried out on the torque relaxation of a single fiber, both wet and dry. at fixed values of twist. All the results obtained are consistent with a molecular model in which the matrix consists of a cross-linked polymer held together by a network of hydrogen bonds.