bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Cotton Stretch Fabrics by Slack Mercerization: Part II: Effects of Cross-Linking
Authors: Kullman Russell M. H. , Fenner Terrence W. , Frick J. G. , Reinhardt Robert M. , Reid J. David
Published: November 2015

The effects of cross-linking cotton stretch fabrics with dimethylol ethyleneurea have been studied. Results are similar to those obtained with ordinary cotton; that is, the stretch cloth, after cross-linking, has wash–wear and wrinkle resistance properties but loses in tearing and breaking strength. The amount of add-on governs strength loss, and in practical use it must be balanced against the degree of wash–wear improvement desired.

Stretchability of the fabric is not greatly lowered by cross-linking. The effect of prolonged stretching on size and on shape, measured as growth, is reduced by cross-linking, but washing is essential for recovery. Under conditions of repeated stretching without washing, permanent set, immediate recovery, and delayed resiliency are affected very little by cross-linking.
Supercontraction of Orthocortex and Paracortex of Wool: Relative Disulfide Contents
Authors: Haly A. R.
Published: November 2015

This paper gives supercontraction data for Lincoln and Corriedale wool fibers and for orthocortex isolated from these wools by abrasion. It is shown that the supercontraction of a Lincoln wool fiber with radial cortical asymmetry is that of its paracortex. First-stage and final levels of supercontraction are given for a number of keratins, including reduced and unreduced samples of Corriedale wool and reduced and unreduced orthocortex that had been isolated, by abrasion, from selected Corriedale fibers. It is concluded that, in this Corriedale wool, the ratio of orthocortical to paracortical cystine density is probably between 0.8 and 0.95. The suggestion is made that the “acid-labile bonds,” which have been said to limit second-stage supercontraction, are not specific chemical bonds but chiefly chain entanglements.
Studies in the Reaction of Formaldehyde with Unmodified, Modified, and Dyed Celluloses: Part III: The Reaction of Formaldehyde with Oxycelluloses
Authors: Datye K. V. , Nabar G. M.
Published: November 2015

The reaction of formaldehyde with oxycelluloses obtained by the oxidation of cotton cellulose with four oxidizing agents is investigated. The rate and the extent of the reaction with these oxycelluloses before and after their treatment with chlorous acid and sodium borohydride have been studied to see the effect of oxidative modification of cellulose on its reaction with formaldehyde. It is observed that the rate and extent of reaction depend upon the nature and extent of oxidation, the change in the fine structure of cellulose during oxidation, the subsequent treatments, and the carboxyl content. A tentative mechanism for the inhibiting action of carboxyl groups present in the anhydroglucose units of the cellulosic material has been suggested.
X-Ray Diffractograms of Cotton: Effect of Sample Weight and Other Variables
Authors: Nelson Mary L. , Schultz E. Fred
Published: November 2015

Day-to-day and within-day variation in the principal peak height and in the area under the curve of x-ray diffractograms from a single specimen of cotton cellulose were examined. A normalizing procedure was shown to be capable of removing much of the short-term random variation in peak height.

An appropriate standard sample weight for a 1 cm × 2 cm rectangular x-ray specimen of cotton cellulose is 100 mg. Samples of 50 mg give diffractograms of lower over-all intensity; however, the normalizing procedure makes peak heights from 50-mg samples compatible with similar data from 100-mg samples.

Cement of the type and quantity described can be used to hold cotton fibers in a compact specimen without affecting the diffractogram. Steel supporting plates and steel specimen holders should be used with caution when irradiating with copper K α radiation, since undesirable background radiation can be produced by fluorescence of the iron in the steel. Aluminum holders are recommended.
Heating, Cleaning, and Mechanical Processing Effects on Cotton: Part II: Equilibrium Moisture and Density
Authors: Andrews F. R. , Honold Edith , Grant James N.
Published: November 2015

Several series of cottons were dried by gin and laboratory methods to secure ranges in levels of drying. Moisture regain and density were determined after drying and after several types of mechanical working. The lower moisture regains for cottons excessively dried at the gin persist for long periods following drying but storage for several years essentially eliminates the influences of initial drying. Repeated exposure to high and low relative humidities at normal temperatures reduces but does not eliminate the drying effects. Cellulose density increases as lint moisture is reduced by gin drying. The changes in moisture and density suggest changes in cellulose structure but their direct influences on spinning behavior are inconclusive. Gin drying has a greater influence on moisture of cotton lint at opening and carding than in the second drawing sliver. By the latter stage, moisture differences caused by drying have been essentially eliminated, but the initial stages of mechanical processing take place when the maximum differences exist in moisture level of the lint.
Contribution to the Study of the B–L Curve of Cotton Yarns
Authors: Balasubramanian N.
Published: November 2015

For the worsted system of processing Grosberg [9] has developed an equation which makes possible the derivation of the variance–length curve of a yarn from the total variance of each of the slivers made during the manufacture of the yarn. The present study is an attempt to evaluate the suitability of this equation for cotton processing. For this purpose, two cottons were spun to 40s and one to 30s using the orthodox system of processing consisting of 3 speed frame passages. The irregularity of the material at different stages of processing was determined with the Uster evenness tester, and the B–L curve of the yarn was deduced using Grosberg's equation. The actual B–L curve of the yarn was also determined with the evenness tester by the “inert test” method. On plotting the results it is found that there is considerable discrepancy between theory and experiment—the predicted curve is seen to be too high in every case. The reasons for this discrepancy are discussed. A preliminary study on two yarn samples showed that there is good agreement between the B–L curves obtained by the Uster evenness tester and the cut-and-weigh method. The log B ( L)–log L plot is found to be fairly linear, except for short lengths, for cotton yarns.
Wool Shrinkproofing Studies: Part III: Fiber Modification in Neutral Potassium Permanganate–Salt Treatments
Authors: Andrews M. W. , Inglis A. S. , Rothery Freda E. , Williams V. A.
Published: November 2015

Reaction of wool with potassium permanganate in water is shown by electron microscopy to extend into the outer cortex, whereas reaction with potassium permanganate in saturated salt solution takes place at the cuticle. Deductions based on relative reaction and clearing rates (in Part I [37]) are therefore confirmed.

Attack by the reagent on the fiber is preferential in the region of the scale edges. The most dense deposition of manganese dioxide is found in the outer layer of the exocuticle. Staining of cross sections of wool with permanganate suggests that the cuticle reacts faster initially than the cortex.

Amino acid analyses of wool fabrics treated with permanganate in water and different concentrations of salt show no significant variation and are similar to those obtained after dry chlorination of the same fabric. All treatments produce significant increases in cysteic acid content and decreases in serine, cystine, and tryptophan residues.

Treatment with permanganate in high salt concentration appears to reduce the differential friction effect of the fiber by reducing the against-scale friction.
Changes in Certain Structural and Mechanical Properties of Cotton Cellulose with Progressive Acetylation
Authors: Conrad G. M. , Harbrink P. , Murphy A. L.
Published: November 2015

Scoured cotton yarns were acetylated by two processes: (1) by a 1:3 mixture of acetic anhydride and acetic acid to give a series of low- and medium-substituted products (PA); and (2) a 1:1 mixture of acetic anhydride and isopropyl acetate to give a series of medium- to highly-substituted products (FA). Perchloric acid was the catalyst in both processes. The products were studied with reference to rate of esterification and changes in gross morphology, density, x-ray fiber diagram, tensile properties, and thermal behavior at various temperatures up to 230° C.

Esterification proceeds by what appears to be a diffusion-controlled reaction. Above about DS = 2, the x-ray diffraction pattern disappears. Although the gross morphology, as viewed by electron microscopy, does not change noticeably during reaction, the density decreases progressively with substitution and is independent of method of preparation. On the other hand, breaking strength is influenced by acetylation process and increases somewhat as substitution increases.

Thermal studies disclose a plastic region in the products between 125° and 175° C. Above that temperature crystallization of cellulose triacetate I sets in and increases progressively with temperature to about 225° C. The plastic and crystal responses of the fibers are reflected in stiffness, elastic recovery, and resiliency behavior at different temperature regions. The results are interpreted in terms of molcular structure.
Determination of Non-Flow Shrinkage Ratio in Oriented Fibers
Authors: Prevorsek D. , Tobolsky A. V.
Published: November 2015

A method for the determination of the non-flow shrinkage ratio of oriented fibers is described. The dimensional changes accompanying the transition of an oriented semi-crystalline molecular structure into a disoriented amorphous random coil structure are shown for various types of fibers. Irradiation and fatiguing had a pronounced effect on fiber shrinkage, both in the magnitude of shrinkage and in the temperature range where the shrinking process terminates. A previously derived theory of shrinkage was applied to obtain values for the average crystallite sizes in the fibers studied. These were found to be in accord with estimates made by others using x-ray methods.
The Theory of Shrinkproofing of Wool; Part VI: Identification by Light Microscopy of Scale Masking and Spot Welding of Fibers by Polymer Deposits
Authors: Bradbury J. H.
Published: November 2015

Light microscopy has been used to examine polyglycine and poly(hexamethylene sebacamide) deposited on the fiber by polymerization of the appropriate monomers and also polymethylmethacrylate deposited from solution in acetone. Two types of deposits occur: (i) a thin, discontinuous layer which covers most of the cuticle and is observed by mounting in “Sellotape” and (ii) irregularly placed, large pieces of polymer which cover only a very small fraction of the cuticle and are observed by mounting in water. The former is produced by polymerization of monomers in situ and effects shrinkproofing by scale masking, and the latter is produced by treatments with preformed polymer, in which case shrinkproofing is due to spot welding of fibers. It is thus possible to distinguish by simple microscopic examination of the treated fibers between the two different types of shrinkproofing produced by polymer deposition. It is concluded that deposition of preformed polymer by the usual techniques results in formation of irregularly placed, large pieces of polymer and that shrinkproofing is achieved by means of spot welding of fibers.
Cationic Dyeing Equilibria on Polyacrylonitrile Fibers
Authors: Rosenbaum Shlomo
Published: November 2015

Variation of the equilibrium uptake of cationic dyes with pH has shown that sulfonic groups in polyacrylonitrile fibers behave as weak acids. Deviations of experimental results from a Langmuir-type relation derived for competition between different cations for a limited number of anionic sites could be explained by electrostatic repulsive interactions between the sites. What appeared to be favorable interactions were attributed to a partial covalent character in the bond between dye and sulfonate group.
Photochemical Degradation of Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Gingras B. A. , Cooney D. , Jackson K. A. , Bayley C. H.
Published: November 2015

The photochemical degradation of purified cotton cellulose by ultraviolet light has been studied and the following nonvolatile breakdown products identified: cellobiose, 3-β-d-glucosido-d-arabinose, glucose, and arabinose. Their formation can be explained by fission of bonds around carbon atoms no. 1 of glucose units, while the initiating step is probably cleavage of the glucosidic linkages. Some evidence for the presence of smaller fragments indicates that fission of carbon-to-carbon bonds may also occur, although this appears to be a relatively small contribution to the over-all process of degradation.
The Extension of Unoriented Nylon 66 Filaments: Part II: Phenomenological Relationships
Authors: Williams Malcolm L. , Bender Malcolm F.
Published: November 2015

Previous experimental investigations of cold drawing have employed two different techniques, (i) a study of load-elongation curves obtained on a constant-rate-of-elongation apparatus, and (ii) the operation of a two-roller drawing machine. In the first case, the length of yarn is fixed and the travel of the neck is followed along this length. In the second case, the neck is fixed in space by adjusting the speed and draw ratio applied to the traversing fiber.

A third experimental method is to apply a constant load to an undrawn fiber and measure the increase in length with time (creep). In this experiment, cold drawing is observed by a marked yield region on the logarithmic time scale. Prior to the yield point, there is a region of uniform extension or pre-yield creep. Following the yield point, there is also a region of uniform extension or post-yield creep.

These creep curves can be used to predict cold drawing behavior on both a two-roller drawing machine and a constant-rate-of-elongation apparatus. In particular, the location of the neck between feed and draw rolls, the drawing tension, and the speed dependence can be understood. These concepts are illustrated using results on nylon 66 monofilaments.
Dimensional Stability of Woven Wool Fabrics: Hygral Expansion
Authors: Baird K.
Published: November 2015

In worsted fabrics, one factor contributing to lack of dimensional stability is the reversible change of dimensions that takes place with regain changes, here termed hygral expansion.

The hygral expansion of ten worsted fabrics is studied, and it is shown that the yarn and fabric behavior can be explained in terms of the bending and straightening of single fiber arcs. The observed change of arc radius from dry to wet is about 50%, and when this figure is applied to the geometry of the weave, quantitative predictions of the hygral expansion of the yarn can be satisfactorily made.

Such a large change of curvature in single fibers cannot arise from radial swelling alone, and it is suggested that with regain changes, the fibers behave in a way that is analogous to the behavior of bimetal strips with temperature changes. Such a mechanism is possible because of the bilateral structure of the fibers, with different longitudinal swelling of the two segments. Since the fibers are preferentially oriented in the fabric, this mechanism can play a dominant role in yarn and fabric behavior.

The hygral expansion increases with increased setting, probably because the yarns no longer tend to revert to their straight form at high regain. Correspondingly, there is a reduction in the reaction forces between yarns at the points of intersection; the higher these reaction forces are, the greater the restriction that is put upon hygral expansion.

Some applications of hygral expansion—to measurements of relaxation shrinkage and assessment and effectiveness of mill machines—are discussed.
Triaxially Woven Fabrics: Their Structure and Properties
Authors: Skelton John
Published: November 2015

A loom developed for producing small samples of triaxially woven fabrics was used to weave experimental amounts of fabric from coarse string, from 3-ply, 840-den nylon yarn and from graphite yarn. The shedding and warp yarn indexing motions are controlled by a series of cams mounted on a cam roll. The sequence of cams can be changed to produce various weave patterns; changes in weave pattern can also be produced for any particular cam roll by varying the sequence of shedding and indexing motions.

The nylon triaxial fabric and a range of square orthogonal fabrics woven from the same yarn were evaluated for various structural and mechanical properties. The stability of the triaxial fabric is much greater than that of an orthogonal fabric with the same percent open area. The triaxial fabric exhibits greater isotropy in its bending behavior and a greater shear resistance than a comparable orthogonal fabric.
A Study of the Removal of Synthetic Sebum from Durable-Press Fabrics, Using a Liquid-Scintillation Technique
Authors: Huisman Mary Ann , Morris Mary Ann
Published: November 2015

A study was made of the retention of a doubly labelled synthetic sebum mixture by durable-press cotton and polyester/cotton fabrics after soiling and laundering. The laundry conditions were ineffective in removing the labelled, oily soil components (tristearin, octadecanol, cholesterol, stearic acid, and oleic acid) from the fabrics. After one soiling and laundering, more tristearin was retained by the fabrics than the other four soil components. The untreated cotton retained significantly less tristearin than DP cotton and the untreated and DP polyester/cotton fabrics. In contrast, after several soilings and launderings, both tristearin and the polar components accumulated on the fabrics and untreated cotton retained significantly more of these components than the other three fabrics.
Evaluating Loss of Texture Definition in Carpets Using Mathematical Morphology: Covariance
Authors: Sobus J. , Pourdeyhimi B. , Xu B. , Ulcay Y.
Published: November 2015

Carpet textures contain periodic information that varies across constructions and is degraded by mechanical wear. We apply image covariance, a digital implementation of mathematical morphology, to binary carpet images for the purpose of measuring aspects of texture periodicity. Our test materials consist of four kinds of double ply wool carpets of differing textures divided into control, light, and heavy wear samples. Video images were digitized by a True Vision Vista frame grabber. Gray-level images were histogram equalized and converted to binary. Covariance data allow one to measure period frequency, amplitude, and overall mean. Results for our carpet samples show changes in amplitude and mean with wear, and are consistent with findings for a previous paper using grey level co-occurrence analysis. Covariance analysis requires relatively minimal computation for processing and preprocessing, but results may be affected by loss of gray level gradient information. If textural features of interest are preserved, this method is an efficient and easily implemented alternative to co-occurrence analysis. Attention is also given to the covariance analysis of computer generated carpet-like textures. We attempt to duplicate the covariance behavior of our carpet series by altering the placement of the component texture objects and simulate carpet wear by degrading regular textures with noise. We offer some thoughts on modeling carpet texture appearance loss with the aid of simulated texture images.
Effects of Fabric Structure on Frictional Properties
Authors: Ajayi Joseph O.
Published: November 2015

When the yarn sett of a woven fabric is systematically increased, there is also a systematic increase in the frictional resistance to motion, and it is greater for weft-over-weft motion than for warp-over-warp. The greater warp crimp producing a “knuckle effect” could be the explanation, although the diminishing spaces between the weft threads could also be a factor. In another case involving a series of pile-type woven fabrics, an increase in the height of fiber tufts produces an increase in the resistance to motion and also the amplitude of the stick-slip motion. A good linear relation exists between the number of peaks and number of cords. The size of cords and the degree of spacing between them may enhance interlocking and intermeshing of fiber pile.
Twist and Linear Density Coefficient of Variation-Length Curves of Polyester/Cotton Yarns Spun by Different Processes
Authors: Manich A. M. , de Castellar M. D. , Barella A.
Published: November 2015

The coefficients of variation-length curves for yarn twist and linear density have been determined for polyester/cotton yarns spun by ring, rotor, and friction processes as a function of blend proportion, yarn twist, and yarn linear density. The influence of each of these parameters on twist and linear density irregularity is described according to the spinning process. The coefficients of variation length curves can be mathematically represented with sufficient accuracy by a polynomial expression including first-and second-order terms.
Spatial Distribution of Local Permeabilities in Fibrous Networks
Authors: Montgomery Susan M. , Miller Bernard , Rebenfeld Ludwig
Published: November 2015

The shape of a developing radial fluid boundary in the plane of a fabric is a reflection of the structure of the fabric. Homogeneous fabrics, with permeabilities independent of position, yield circular or elliptical flow fronts, depending on the existence of a universally preferred flow direction. Heterogeneous networks yield flow fronts that deviate from this elliptical shape due to spatial variations in permeability. The time-dependent development of the fluid front that occurs when liquid flows radially in the plane of a fabric may be analyzed using Darcy's law to calculate local fabric permeabilities. The resulting spatial distribution of permeabilities is representative of the spatial heterogeneity of the fabric structure. Sample permeability distributions of geotextile fabrics are discussed.
Optimizing Hercosett/Optical Brightener Agent/Hydrogen Peroxide Systems Applied to Untreated Wool for Shrinkproofing
Authors: de la Maza A. , Manich A. M. , Parra J. L. , de Castellar M. D.
Published: November 2015

We have studied the application on untreated wool fibers of different aqueous dispersion systems made with Hercosett, a cationic resin; three commercial anionic optical brightener agents (OBA), Uvitex CF-200, Blankophor BA Liq. B, and Uvitex NFW; and the oxidative agent hydrogen peroxide to improve both whiteness and shrink-proofing properties with less damage to the keratinic structure. Treatment times and temperatures were optimized using the central composite rotatable design of Box and Hunter and, in all cases, a weight ratio of Hercosett/OBA that produced better shrink-proofing. Results obtained for each OBA were also compared to determine optimum application.
Developing an Equilibrium Equation for Direct Dye Mixtures on Cellulose
Authors: Porter John J.
Published: November 2015

An equilibrium.equation has been developed to correlate data for direct dye/cotton systems containing single dyes, mixtures of two dyes, and cotton fibers containing carboxyl groups. The data for Direct blue 1, red 2, red 81 and yellow 12 at 90°C can be explained in terms of a modified Langmuir equation that can account for positive and negative dye interactions on the fiber. Standard chemical potentials are tabulated and sorption isotherms are plotted for the dye systems evaluated.
Compressional Energy of the Random Fiber Assembly
Authors: Lee Dae Hoon , Carnaby Garth A. , Tandon Surinder K.
Published: November 2015

In this paper, we describe the method used to evaluate the theory of the compressional energy of the random fiber assembly, which was developed mathematically in Part I. We also introduce a mathematical derivation of the method for updating the orientation density function of fibers in a general fiber assembly. In order to evaluate the energy, the distribution of the fiber segment lengths is characterized using the gamma distribution. In addition, the curvature of the fiber segments is characterized by an equation that relates the crimp and the effective diameter of the crimped fiber configuration. We use minimization technique to compute the compressional energy. Effects of the mechanical properties of fibers and the structural parameters of the assembly on the minimum compressional energy are computed for New Zealand wools. Except for fiber crimp, there is good agreement between the computed results and experimental results for the various fiber and structural parameters. The model shows that if only fiber crimp is increased for a given initial geometry, the tangent compression modulus actually decreases. However, this point cannot be tested because crimpier fibers cannot be brought to the same initial geometry without generating nonzero compressional strain energy. We plan further investigation of this point.
A New Approach for Predicting Strength Properties of Yarn
Authors: Frydrych Iwona
Published: November 2015

We present a new approach to yarn characterization and yarn tensile response based on fiber parameters such as strength and strain-at-break, length, and fineness. Yarn characterization is concerned with twist, linear density, and the ratio of experimental yarn unevenness to the Martindale's limit characteristic for spinning mills. Experimental strength results are compared with predicted ones on the basis of theory.
Behavior of Fibers in Active Media under Load—A Dynamic Gel Self-Organizing Structure
Authors: Vaykhansky L. E. , Frenkel S. Ya. , Chereisky Z. Yu. , Dobrovolskaya I. P.
Published: November 2015

Experimental data are presented to show that the combined action of interactive media, temperature, and load on polymeric fibers can exert not only a cumulative damaging effect, resulting in rapid fiber failure, but also under certain conditions an abnormal increase in fiber lifetime. We propose that combined molecular processes take place to create a new time-dependent dissipative structure, which we call a “dynamic gel.” The dynamic gel is characterized by nonlinear, nonequilibrium processes, as indicated by the presence of bifurcation regions. Improvements in the structure and properties of different fibers are shown. We believe that this improvement is related to self-organization, as visualized in nonequilibrium thermodynamics and synergetics.
Properties of Small Diameter Aramid Double Braids: Fatigue Lifetime, Strength Retention after Abrasion, and Strength Modeling
Authors: Heirigs L. T. , Schwartz P.
Published: November 2015

Small diameter double braids were fabricated using poly ( p-phenylene terephthalamide) (PPTA) as the core material and nylon 66 and polyester (PET) as the braided sheath materials. The degree of deterioration from abrasion was characterized by residual strength measurements, while the number of cycles to failure was used to determine fatigue resistance. Fracture zones from both, along with the failed specimens from static strength tests, were investigated using SEM. Tensile testing of both the sheathed braid and unsheathed core revealed that the sheath improves load-bearing capabilities, but pre-conditioning the braids before testing decreases strength. A modified model was applied to predict the mean failure stress of the unsheathed core, and a good fit was found, with the rope failure strain being more difficult to predict when the model was applied in a similar fashion. Abrasion testing of the sheathed samples did not result in a strength loss within the number of cycles tested, but when the unsheathed core was tested at a moderate number of cycles, a 60% loss of strength resulted. The sheath also improved the lifetime when the braids were subjected to cycling around a capstan. Lifetimes were short due to the sensitivity of the PPTA core to lateral compressive forces and the high loading force (∼50% UTS). SEM investigation of the failure zones for both the abrasion and fatigue samples resulted in similar topographies. Surface abrasion of the PPTA core resulted in fibrillation. Splitting was evident in the morphologies of both nylon and polyester sheaths. There was little evidence of self-abrasion of the PPTA in the braided structure, indicating low relative strand movement.
Measuring Medullation in Mohair with near Infrared Reflectance Analysis
Authors: Boguslavsky A. , Botha A. , Hunter L.
Published: November 2015

Existing methods of measuring medullation in wool and mohair have certain shortcomings, such as testing time, cost, and variability, especially at low levels of medullation. A new method using near-infrared analysis (NIRA) is proposed. The main difference between the new method and the conventional NIRA method involves the immersion of the mohair sample in a liquid with a refractive index similar to that of mohair. All the calibration and validation statistical parameters improve significantly compared to the conventional NIRA method. The standard error of prediction for the new method is 0.31%. There is a high reproducibility of single measurements, especially at low levels of medullation. The main factor limiting the precision of conventional NIRA estimates of medullation is considered to be the influence of the light signal reflected from fiber surface.
Degradation of Sulfonated Azo Dyes with Sodium Percarbonate
Authors: Ohura Ritsuko , Katayama Akira , Takagishi Tohru
Published: November 2015

Sulfonated hydroxyarylazo and aminoarylazo dyes were reacted with sodium percarbonte in water at pH 10.6 and at various temperatures. We have determined the initial rate and the apparent activation energy of the decoloration reaction. The results suggest a greater susceptibility to attack of the hydrazone form than the azo form. Aminoarylazo dyes are more resistant to degradation relative to similar hydroxyarylazo dyes, which contain a hydroxyl group that can be ionized in alkaline solutions. They are more resistant and have greater apparent activation energy than the others.
Effect of Heat-Setting Temperature on the Hydrazine Treatment of Poly (ethylene Terephthalate) Partially Oriented Yarn
Authors: Niu Shouhua , Wakida Tomiji , Ueda Mitsuo
Published: November 2015

Poly (ethylene terephthalate) partially oriented yarn (PET POY) was heat set at 100 to 220°c in a fixed state and then treated with hydrazine. Although crystallinity of the heat-set PET POY increased with increased heat-setting temperature, weight loss from the hydrazine treatment initially decreased at a temperature up to 120°c and subsequently increased above 120°c. The hydrazinolyzed POY fiber is dyeable with acid dyes because of the hydrazide groups incorporated by hydrazinolysis. Nitrogen content and dye exhaustion with CI acid orange 7 showed trends similar to the weight loss of the hydrazinolyzed POY fibers. On the other hand, the dyeability of the hydrazinolyzed POY fibers with CI disperse violet 1 was lower than that of the untreated fibers. Many cracks appeared on the surface of the hydrazinolyzed fibers, and they were smallest on the fibers that were heat set at 120°c.
Influence of Strain Rate and Yarn Number on Tensile Test Results
Authors: Vangheluwe L.
Published: November 2015

The influence of strain rate and yarn number on tensile test results is investigated using a model to describe the tensile curve. A good correlation is obtained with the experimental stress-strain curves. The influence of the yarn number on the tensile modulus and the tensile curve is not quite the same for ring and rotor yarns.
Nonformaldehyde Polymerization-Crosslinking Treatment of Cotton Fabrics for Improved Strength Retention
Authors: Choi Hyung-Min
Published: November 2015

A new concept in polycarboxylic crosslinking agents for cellulose is introduced using olefinically unsaturated dicarboxylic acids, maleic acid (MA), and itaconic acid (IA). In contrast to previous studies involving acids containing at least three carboxylic groups per molecule, we found that the dicarboxylic monomers can be effective cross-linking agents for cellulose when they are applied in the presence of a free radical initiator and an esterification catalyst. The results demonstrate that the system of a 1:1 mole ratio of MA and IA substantially increases a smooth drying appearance while maintaining much improved strength retention of the treated fabric and without involving any formaldehyde. Striking effects appear in the increased Stoll flex abrasion resistance of the treated fabric. The evidence of cellulose crosslinks through esterification reactions of carboxyl groups in MA and IA and cellulose hydroxyl groups is confirmed by chemical analyses and FT-IR spectra.
Moisture Buffering Behavior of Hygroscopic Fabric During Wear
Authors: Li Y. , Holcombe B. V. , Apcar F.
Published: November 2015

Water vapor buffering of hygroscopic fabrics during wear has been studied using both theoretical modeling and wear trials. Both theoretical predictions and experimental observations demonstrate that highly hygroscopic wool fabrics absorb significantly more sweat than fabrics of very low hygroscopicity, such as polyester, during a period of exercise following rest. The wool fabric removes more moisture from the microclimate than polyester, and reduces the perceived discomfort caused by moisture buildup on the skin under wear trial conditions. The prediction technique is applied to previously reported wear trials, and used to explain the results observed under different wear conditions. Hygroscopic buffering is effective during wear under dry environmental conditions in combination with light to moderate physical activity.
Yarn Hairiness and the Process of Winding
Authors: Rust J. P. , Peykamian S.
Published: November 2015

The influence of winding on yarn hairiness is examined, and increased hairiness during winding is verified using a Zweigle hairiness tester. Specifically, this study concentrates on the increase of wild hairs on the yarn surface after winding, and the relationship between winding tension and yarn hairiness. Fiber transfer is proposed to explain the increased wild hairs; experimental results verify that fiber transfer occurs. A theory is proposed to explain the mechanism of fiber transfer during winding, and experimental results are given to support this mechanism.
The Glass Transition of Wool: An Improved Determination Using DSC
Authors: Kure Julie M. , Pierlot Anthony P. , Russell Ian M. , Shanks Robert A.
Published: November 2015

The glass transition temperature ( Tg) of wool and its dependence on water content is reinvestigated using differential scanning calorimetry (dsc). Previous studies with dsc have not accounted for the influence of thermal history, which may introduce a large variability in Tg measurements. Because the Tg of wool is an important parameter affecting textile performance and properties, it needs to be clearly defined. When the finite volume of the water-impenetrable phase is taken into account, an important correction of the Fox equation is obtained, describing the dependence of Tg on water content. On melting of the water-impenetrable crystalline regions, a reduction in the temperature range of the glass transition region is apparent, suggesting that the crystalline regions behave in a manner analogous to filler particles in rubber. The ratio of the change in heat capacity at the glass transition, before and after melting, may provide a way to estimate the crystalline weight fraction in native wool.
Effects of Level of Fiber Opening on Moisture Regain, Tenacity, and Breakage of Wool
Authors: Suadipradja A. , Wang X.
Published: November 2015

We have studied the effects of the level of fiber opening, expressed in points per fiber (ppf), on the reduction in moisture regain of wool, the fiber tenacity change, and the associated level of fiber breakage in an opening process. Two kinds of short Merino cardings wool are first converted into draw slivers, which are then opened at different opening levels on an open-end rotor spinner. The draw slivers are free from vegetable matter contamination in order to limit the number of variables in this study. The results indicate that as the ppf value increases, the reduction in fiber moisture regain increases linearly. The test of fiber bundle strength reveals that fiber tenacity drops after opening, but this drop is not proportional to the level of fiber opening. Reasons for this disproportion are discussed. Percent of fiber breakage during opening is examined by measuring changes in mean fiber length before and after opening; it also increases linearly with increasing ppf values.
Air Interlaced Self-Twist Yarns
Authors: Miao Menghe , Lui Kam-Che Kalina
Published: November 2015

An earlier investigation revealed that commingling self-twist yarn with a thin multifilament improved yarn appearance and strength. This paper describes a continued effort in that direction. Self-twist yarns are spun and air interlaced in a continuous operation on the Repco self-twist yarn spinning machine without the introduction of filaments. The abrasion resistance of the self-twist yarn is remarkably enhanced after air interlacing, especially in the zero-twist parts. When compared with counterparts made from self-twist and STT yarns, the knitted fabrics from the air interlaced self-twist yarn show improvements in handle and most mechanical properties, along with reduced knit loop distortion, which is inherent in ordinary self-twist yarn due to its structural variation.
A Computer Simulation Approach for Engineering Air-Jet Spun Yarns
Authors: Rajamanickam Rangaswamy , Hansen Steven M. , Jayaraman Sundaresan
Published: November 2015

A computer simulation approach for engineering air-jet spun yarns is proposed, and the advantages of computer simulations over experimental investigations and stand-alone mathematical models are discussed. Interactions of the following factors in air-jet spun yarns are analyzed using computer simulations: yarn count and fiber fineness, fiber tenacity and fiber friction, fiber length and fiber friction, and number of wrapper fibers and wrap angle. Based on the results of these simulations, yarn engineering approaches to optimize strength are suggested.
Studies of JetRing Spinning Part I: Reducing Yarn Hairiness with the JetRing
Authors: Wang Xungai , Miao Menghe , How Yanlai
Published: November 2015

This paper introduces the concept of JetRing spinning, a new spinning technique that incorporates features of both ring and air-jet spinning systems. In JetRing spinning, a single air jet is used below the yarn-forming zone of a conventional ring spinning system; this jet acts in a way similar to the first jet in air-jet spinning. The swirling air currents in the jet wind the protruding fibers around the yarn body, thus reducing yarn hairiness. The air pressure applied to the jet in this study is 0.5 bar, which is much lower than the air pressure used in air-jet spinning. To evaluate the performance of JetRing spinning, ring spun and JetRing spun worsted yarns of 56 tex are tested for hairiness, tensile properties, and yarn evenness. The hairiness results from the Zweigle hairiness meter show that the JetRing spun yarn has much lower numbers of hairs than the ring spun yarn in almost all the hair length groups. The total number of hairs exceeding 3 mm ( i.e., the S3 value) for the JetRing spun yarn is nearly 40% less than that of the ring spun yarn, while both yarn types show little difference in evenness and tensile properties.
Compatibility of Outer and Fusible Interlining Fabrics in Tailored Garments Part III: Selecting Fusible Interlinings
Authors: Fan J. , Leeuwner W. , Hunter L.
Published: November 2015

Based on the desirable range for mechanical properties of fused composites and the relationship between these properties and those of the outer and fusible interlining fabrics already reported in Parts I and II of this series, a set of equations is derived in this part to estimate the desirable range of mechanical properties for these interlinings. Based on the predictions of the mechanical properties, an objective method is proposed for selecting a compatible interlining for a specific outer fabric. The practical application of this method is demonstrated by examples.
Fabric-Evoked Prickle in Worsted Spun Single Jersey Fabrics Part I: The Role of Fiber End Diameter Characteristics
Authors: Naylor G. R. S. , Phillips D. G. , Veitch C. J. , Dolling M. , Marland D. J.
Published: November 2015

Fabric-evoked prickle is studied in a range of worsted spun single jersey knitted wool fabrics made from wools with different fiber diameter characteristics. Relative prickle sensation in these fabrics can be predicted from the density of coarse fiber ends per unit area of fabric, with the percentage of fiber ends greater than 32 μm in diameter being the key factor. Naturally occurring variations in the percentages of coarse fiber ends at a given mean fiber diameter found in individual fleeces can lead to significant differences in fabric-evoked prickle.
Modeling and Simulation of a Falling Yarn with One End Fixed
Authors: Ghith A. , Bruniaux P. , Koncar V. , Vasseur C.
Published: November 2015

This paper presents a model and simulation of yarn dynamics to predict the drape behavior of clothes by generalizing the model to fabrics. In the first part of this work, mathematical and mechanical theoretical bases are developed to attempt modeling the shape of a falling yarn with one end fixed. The equations describing the model are strongly interconnected and nonlinear. In the second part, a software implementation of the nonlinear system goes beyond the bounds of computing memory, requiring some simplifications. A series of simulations tests the influence of yarn parameters on this model.
Training-Free Counter Propagation Neural Network for Pattern Recognition of Fabric Defects
Authors: Rajasekaran S.
Published: November 2015

We present an application of a Training-free counter propagation network (tfcpn) to detect fabric defects. The TFCPN, which is a modification of Hecht-Nielsen's counter propagation network (cpn), learns through a simple recording algorithm devoid of any training, while retaining the topology of the cpn model. The mathematical justification for the modification is also presented. Four kinds of fabric defects—neps, broken ends, broken picks, and oil stains—most likely to be found during weaving are considered for recognition by the network. Results show that fabric defects such as these inspected by means of image recognition in accordance with the tfcpn agree approximately with initial expectations. The cpn reported in this paper is training-free, and it can learn complicated textile design problems.
Cleavage of Integral Surface Lipids of Wool by Aminolysis
Authors: Evans David J. , Lanczki Miklos
Published: November 2015

A complex mixture of lipids is obtained upon treatment of wool with anhydrous alkylamines, with the major class being identified as N-alkylfalty amides (0.60 mg/g of extracted wool). Analysis of the lipids released by isopropylamine treatment shows that the major fatty amide is N-isopropyl-18-methyleicosanamide, which comprises 61% by weight of the total fatty amides released. Fatty acid hydroxamates (RCONHOH) are formed upon treatment of wool with anhydrous hydroxylamine. The alkyl hydroxamates (0.55 mg/g of extracted wool) are analyzed by HPLC, which again shows the 18-methyleieosanoic acid derivative to he the dominant species (71% by weight of the total fatty acid hydroxamates). These results indicate that the covalently bound fatty acids on the surface of wool may be readily cleaved by aminolysis with anhydrous alkylamines. I hey also support the hypothesis that the proteins within the cuticle cell membrane are acylated with fatty acids through a thioester linkage.
Determining Fiber Orientation Distribution in Nonwovens with Hough Transform Techniques
Authors: Xu Bugao , Yu Ling
Published: November 2015

This research explores the application of an image transform technique, the Hough transform (ht), to measuring fiber orientation distribution in nonwoven fabrics. In this paper, various forms of the ht for straight lines and the implementing algorithms are presented, the factors that may influence the accuracy of ht results are discussed, and the way to determine fiber orientation distribution from ht data for a nonwoven is explained. The usefulness of the ht method is tested using simulated nonwoven images with known dominant fiber orientations, and nonwoven fabrics differing in fiber content, weight, and other characteristics. Fiber orientation distributions generated by the ht method are also compared with those obtained from the zero-span tensile testing method. The principal advantages of using the ht are that it is robust in suppressing image noise and is able to deal with fibers containing gaps and breaks. Measurements with the ht method show good correlation with those obtained from other methods. The ht appears to be an effective and efficient image analysis technique for extracting information about fiber orientation from images of nonwoven fabrics.
Dyeing Behavior of Indigo Reduced by Indirect Electrolysis
Authors: Bechtold T. , Burtscher E. , Turcanu A. , Bobleter O.
Published: November 2015

Dispersed indigo dyestuff can be reduced by indirect electrolysis using an iron (II)-triethanolamine complex. The iron (III) form of the complex can be transformed to the iron (II) form by cathodic reduction, thus leading to a regenerable reducing agent. Electrochemically reduced indigo is tested in laboratory scale dyeing experiments, and the results of different reduction conditions in the dyebath are discussed. The influence of the concentration of the complex-system on the build-up of color depth and shade with increasing number of dips is discussed and compared with samples of the standard dyeing procedure using sodium dithionite as reducing agent. The results of the latter conventional process show that the dyestuff in the dyebath behaves in a manner similar to that when a regenerable Fe(II)-complex is used as the reducing agent.
Resilience Properties of Polypropylene Carpets
Authors: Vangheluwe L. , Kiekens P.
Published: November 2015

This paper deals with the problem of carpet resilience which depends on pile yarn properties and carpet construction characteristics. Up to now, resilience could only be measured on the carpet itself. New methods are being developed to assess the resilience properties of pile yarns directly before carpet manufacturing. The test methods are explained and results discussed.
Absorption of N-Cetylpyridinium Chloride on Leacril Fibers: Kinetics and Thermodynamics
Authors: Espinosa-Jiménez M. , Giménez-Martin E. , Ontiveros-Ortega A.
Published: November 2015

Data are presented on the kinetics and thermodynamics of absorption of N-cetylpyridinium chloride (N-CP-Cl) by Leacril fibers at different temperatures. The increased temperature of the system increases the surfactant content of the fibers. The experimental time-sorption isotherms are represented by the exponential kinetic equation, Mt = Meq(1 – e−kt), where Mt and Meq refer to the amounts of surfactant taken up by Leacril at time t and equilibrium, respectively, and k refers to the rate constant. The empirical rate constant decreases with temperature. Values of half-absorption time at different temperatures are presented. Sorption equilibria of N-CP-Cl by Leacril are described by a Freundlich isotherm equation. Changes of enthalpy and entropy related to the process of absorption are calculated from the Clausius-Clapeyron equation. Isosteric heats of absorption are positive, between 20 and 120 kJ/mol. The global change of entropy is positive, between 126 and 500 J/mol K. The best thermodynamic conditions for surfactant uptake by Leacril appear at the highest temperatures, when the standard free energy of absorption takes the most negative values. From the results, we find that the absorption of N-CP-Cl by Leacril in the temperature interval investigated takes place wim establishment of chemical bonds, although physical contributions of an electrostatic nature between the cation of the surfactant and the sulphonate and sulfate end-groups of Leacril are the most important.