bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Effects of Heat-Drying on the Physical and Chemical Properties of Cottons
Authors: Nelson Mary L. , Andrews Frederick R. , Grant James N.
Published: March 2008

The poor spinnability of some lots of gin-dried cotton has been attributed to over heating of the seed cotton. To determine what changes in the lint might be responsible, two series of gin-dried cottons and one series that was flash-heated in the laboratory were studied. Appropriate physical and chemical properties of the lint were measured, such as fiber length distribution, single-fiber and fiber-bundle strength and elongation, moisture regain, nepping potential, fiber friction, microscopical swelling, alkali swelling, wet tability, fluorescence, copper number, carboxyl content, pH, infrared spectra, and wax properties. Limited spinning and weaving tests allowed yarn and fabric properties to be measured.

Nearly all tests showed no evidence of radical permanent changes in lint properties. The one significant finding was an altered fiber length distribution in some heated lots such that the proportion of shorter fibers was increased while the percentage of long fibers was slightly decreased. This change appeared to be correlated with poorer yarn appearance and uniformity, a slight reduction in yarn and fabric strength, and poorer resistance to flex-abrasion. A blend of unheated lint with enough short (cut) fibers to give a fiber-length distribution approximately the same as that of a gin-overheated lot produced yarns and fabric with properties in close agreement with the overheated lot whose fiber-length distribution was approximated by the blending.

Laboratory tests showed that fiber strength was lower when tested immediately after heating—that is, when the moisture regain was temporarily greatly reduced. From this finding it is deduced that the change in length distribution is the result of excessive fiber breakage when lint is subjected to mechanical agitation at too low a moisture content.
Phosphonomethylation of Cotton
Authors: Drake George L. , Reeves Wilson A. , Guthrie John D.
Published: March 2008

A new phosphorus-containing ether of cellulose was prepared by the reaction of cotton with chloromethylphosphonic acid in the presence of sodium hydroxide. Phosphorus contents from 0.2% to 4.0% were obtained. By proper control of the phosphono methylation reaction, derivatives were made which ranged from water soluble to fibrous materials in which the physical properties of the untreated cotton were substantially unaltered. Phosphonomethyl cotton was flame resistant in the ammonium salt form and had a cation exchange capacity equivalent to some of the cation exchange resins.
The Reaction of Wool With Sodium Hydroxide in Concentrated Salt Solutions
Authors: McPhee J.R.
Published: March 2008

The properties of wool after treatment with sodium hydroxide in a series of 2 M aqueous salt solutions show that anions protect from alkaline degradation in the order S2O3z, SO8z, citrate > CO3z> 504z > C2H 3O2- > Cl- > Br- > NO2- > I- > CNS-, while cations protect in the order Li+, Na+ > K+. The swelling of wool is decreased by some 2 M salt solutions (S2O2 z) but is unaffected by others (CNS-). However, the rate of sorption of OH- by wool is the same from all the alkaline 2 M salt solutions and from pure NaOH. The anion concentration in solution either increases (S2O2z) when wool is added, or is unaffected (2 M CNS-); that is, water is sorbed preferentially from some salt solutions, but no specific anion sorption occurs. Salt effects on wool are therefore unlikely to be due to dehydration of the wool or to ion binding. The present results, and many other protein properties, can be simply explained on the basis of the "effective pressure" exerted by salts in solution, a concept introduced by Gibson [8]. Results of practical interest are that wool can be shrinkproofed without damage by treatment with certain aqueous sodium hydroxide solutions and that yellowing of wool in alkali can be prevented by the addition of reducing agents, such as sodium bisulfite, to the solution.
A Second Order Transition Temperature in Wool Fibers in the Post-Yield Region
Authors: Feughehnan M. , Haly A.R. , Rigby B.J.
Published: March 2008

A second order transition temperature exists for stretched wool fibers in water for the temperature range 60-70° C. This transition is indicated by the transformation in certain physical properties of the fibers such as birefringence and the ability to set per manently. Below the transition temperature a fiber under constant rate of loading passes from the yield to post-yield regions at a value of extension of about 30%, which is independent of the temperature. Above the transition temperature the value of the extension increases with increase of temperature. This variation of the extension at the turnover from the yield to post-yield region with change of temperature above a transition temperature and the constancy of the extension below were shown to hold for chemically and physically modified fibers.
Physical Properties of Mercerized and Decrystallized Cottons
Authors: Orr Rollin S. , Burgis Albert W. , Andrews Frederick R. , Grant James N.
Published: March 2008

Yarns from samples of Pima S-1, Hopi Acala, and Coker 100 Wilt varieties were scoured, chloroform extracted, mercerized, and decrystallized with anhydrous ethylamine without tension. Breaking loads for yarns immersed in solutions when compared to those in water were essentially unchanged by ethylamine but decreased appreciably by sodium hydroxide. Untreated yarns in water showed decreases in strength with in creases in water temperature. Sodium hydroxide caused yarn to shrink in length as much as 35% but ethylamine only about 17%. Yarn shrinkages were related to in creases in cross-sectional areas of fibers and to cell sizes of the two complexes. Fiber lengths after treatments were unchanged by scouring or extraction but decreased by the sodium hydroxide and the ethylamine. Mercerization at normal length caused a reduc tion in the percentage decrease in single fiber and bundle tenacities as the gauge length was increased. Strength increases during mercerization are attributed to increased uni formity of strength along the fiber length.
Effects of Roller Ginning and Saw Ginning on Pima S-1 Cotton
Authors: Brown John J. , Howell Nathaniel A. , Ruppenicker George F.
Published: March 2008

A pilot plant evaluation was made to compare the effects of roller ginning and saw ginning on the fiber, yarn, and fabric properties and processing performance of Pima S-1 cotton. Combed and carded yarns made from roller- and saw-ginned cotton and sewing thread and fabric made from combed lots of each stock were evaluated. The fabrics were compared in the grey and after finishing (singeing, mercerization, scouring, bleaching, dyeing, and Sanforize treating).

It was found that, within the limits of this study, the general processing efficiency of the roller-ginned cotton was better than that of the saw-ginned cotton. The method of ginning had no appreriable effect on the strength, uniformity, or elongation at break of combed yarns, but carded yarns spun from roller-ginned cotton were significantly stronger than those spun from saw-ginned stock. Combed yarns spun from the roller- ginned cotton were better in appearance than those spun from the saw-ginned stock. There were no significant differences in the physical properties of sewing thread pro duced from combed saw- or roller-ginned cotton. Fabrics produced from combed cotton ginned by both methods were approximately equal in tearing strength, but the saw-ginned cotton produced fabric that, in some cases, had a lower elongation and breaking strength. There were no significant differences in abrasion resistance between the fabrics before finishing, but the results for abrasion resistance of the finished fabrics were inconclusive. The fabric woven from the saw-ginned cotton contained consider ably more neps than that woven from the roller-ginned cotton.

Since this type of cotton is generally used for the production of fine quality yarns and fabrics, it was concluded that saw-ginned extra long staple cottons would not be suitable for these uses. Also, due to the greater amount of waste during processing and poorer spinning performance of the saw-ginned cotton, processing costs would be higher and possibly offset any savings in ginning costs.
A Technique for Examining the Configuration of Fibres in Pleated Fabrics
Authors: Holdaway H.W. , Laws Valerie
Published: March 2008

A description is given of procedures and embedding media which have been used successfully to examine the "microstructure" of fabrics near pleats. The paper is illustrated with some typical photomicrographs.
Characteristics and Rate of Wear of Worsted Serge in Trousers
Authors: Dowlen Rowena P. , Ward Roy L.
Published: March 2008

The performance of a worsted serge in drycleaning and as trousers was studied. A 58's grade domestic wool was woven into a 13-oz. serge (standard 2/2 twill, 68 X 68) that was dyed gray. Fifty-four pairs of trousers were worn by college men for one, two, or three academic years (11, 22, or 33 weeks). Breaking strength was determined and microscopic examination of yarns for percentage of worn fiber ends was made in three locations of anticipated heavy wear—waist front, knee, and seat. Loss in strength was related to time in service. The rate of deterioration was greater during the second and third years than during the first, and greater for the filling than for the warp. The seat was the most severely worn area. The trousers gave satisfactory performance through the three years. Bursting strength and abrasion resistance were determined in parts where less wear was visible. After the third year, deterioration had advanced to an 18% loss in bursting strength and a 23% loss in resistance to abrasion, and air permeability increased to approximately double its original value. Drycleaning alone had little or no effect on the appearance or the physical properties of the swatches of serge which were cleaned in the same load with the trousers.
Photoelectric Twist Irregularity Tester
Authors: Uno M. , Saito H. , Shiomi A. , Hiramatu T.
Published: March 2008

The reflected light from a yarn squeezed flat shows its peak value when measured in a plane vertical to the twisted fibers. A twist irregularity tester based on this principle, which operates automatically and records the change of twist angle, was constructed. Several twist irregularity curves were obtained with both staple yarns and continuous filament yarns. Some factors affecting the accuracy of the test results were discussed, and the curve was compared with the twist angle measured by visual observation.
Phenolic-Formaldehyde Resins as Finishing Agents for Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Chance Leon H. , Perkerson Fred S. , McMillan Oscar J.
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabric was treated with phenolic-formaldehyde resins and seven halogenated phenolic-formaldehyde resins and the properties of the fabric evaluated. The fabric was treated by padding it through a solution of phenol in alkaline aqueous formaldehyde, drying, and curing in an oven. All the fabrics had improved rot resistance and crease recovery. The halogenated phenols did not seem to have any advantage over plain phenol in imparting rot resistance to cotton fabric. Fabrics treated with m-chlorophenol and m-bromophenol had the highest crease recovery.
Properties of Fabrics Produced from Three Extra Long Staple Cottons
Authors: Ruppenicker George F. , Brown John J.
Published: March 2008

Results are reported of a comparative evaluation of the properties of fabrics produced from the American-Egyptian Pima S-1, Egyptian Karnak, and a high strength Upland cotton, Hybrid Strain 330. Relationships of some fiber and yarn properties to fabric properties are shown. The reactions of fabrics woven from these cottons to chemical finishing treatments (mercerization, scouring, bleaching, and dyeing) are also discussed.

In general, it was found that the Pima S-1 cotton produced fabrics which were ap proximately equal in breaking and tearing strength to those made from Hybrid Strain 330 cotton and which were stronger than those made from Karnak. Grey fabrics made from Pima S-1 had higher elongation, greater resistance to flex abrasion, and better draping qualities than those made from the other two cottons. The finishing treat-- ments had varied effects on the fabrics, but in most cases those made from Pima S-1 re mained equal to or better than those made from the other cottons in the properties measured. Fiber and yarn properties were closely related to fabric properties.
The Mechanism of Pilling
Authors: Gintis Daniel , Mead Edward J.
Published: March 2008

Studies of the mechanism of pilling have demonstrated that pilling propensity is determined by the rates of fuzz formation, entanglement, and pill wearoff. Motion pictures of fabrics subjected to an abrading action showed that the abradant acted on exposed fiber sections to pull loops which then opened to form fuzz. A pill formed quickly when the fuzz density reached a critical level. The fibers were then twisted and entangled, gradually involving nearby fibers. As the abrading action continued, pills wore away.

Techniques were developed which permitted independent quantitative study of each of these three phenomena. The physical properties of several textile fibers were correlated with their behavior in these tests. Interfiber friction and bending stiffness were important factors in fuzz formation. Entanglement tendency was correlated with denier, cross-sectional shape, and bending stiffness. Pill wearoff was determined by abrasion resistance and tenacity.

The general applicability of this mechanism has been demonstrated with modified polyester fibers. The reduced pitting tendency of ribbon staple fibers was attributed to a directional bending which reduced their entanglement tendency. Heat-setting increased bending stiffness, which reduced pilling by lowering fuzzing tendency. The most pronounced effect on pilling tendency of polyester fibers was obtained by changes in abrasion resistance, which affected the rate of pill wearoff.
The Effect of the Short Fibers in a Cotton on its Processing Efficiency and Product Quality
Authors: Tallant John D. , Fiori Louis A. , lagendre Dorothy C.
Published: March 2008

The effect of the short fiber content of a cotton on yarn and fabric properties and processing efficiency, long a speculative and controversial subject, is investigated to a limited extent in this paper by the technique of cutting sliver into and ¼- and ½-in. segments and adding the resulting short fibers to the parent cotton. The results indicate that increases in short fibers are detrimental to virtually all yarn and fabric properties and require increased roving twist for efficient drafting during spinning. A 1% increase in fibers shorter than 3/8 in. causes a strength loss in yarns of somewhat more than 1%. The quantities of cotton processed for this paper were insufficient to draw conclusions on neps, waste, or processing efficiency. The effect of short fibers on these properties will be considered in subsequent papers.
Effects of Gin Drying and Cleaning Practices on Properties of Bleached and Resin Treated Fabrics'
Authors: Grant James N. , Andrews Frederick R. , Tsoi Ruby H.
Published: March 2008

Fabrics made from lint cotton subjected to twelve combinations of ginning practices —seed cotton cleaning, lint cleaning, and drying levels—were tested as gray, bleached, and resin treated fabrics. The seed cottons dried to the lowest moisture level before ginning produced the weakest gray fabrics. Bleaching caused no accentuation of their differences in breaking and tearing strengths which could be associated with the ginning practice since strengths of all twelve fabrics were reduced about the same amounts. Resin treatment and laundering decreased the differences in strengths among fabrics. Density of cellulose was slightly higher for the three lots dried to the lowest moisture level. Moisture regains of the bleached fabrics were essentially equal. Alkali centri fuge swelling values were more closely associated with fiber fineness than with the ginning practices. Among the fabrics, differential dyeing detected differences asso ciated with fiber fineness but not with ginning practices. Degree of polymerization was reduced by bleaching but showed no consistent relation to seed cotton treatment. Inconsistencies among samples within groups do not permit conclusions to be reached as to effects of seed cotton cleaning or lint cleaning.
Partially Carboxymethylated Cotton as an Intermediate for Further Chemical Modification
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Reid J. David , Fenner Terrence W. , Mayne Ruth Y.
Published: March 2008

Cotton can be etherified by treatment with chloroacetic acid and sodium hydroxide solution. The product, a partially carboxymethylated cotton, which retains the original fibrous nature of the cotton, has a number of properties valuable for textile and other uses. In addition, the etherified cotton bears two reactive functional groups—hydroxyl and carboxyl—capable of further chemical modification.

The rate and extent of many reactions with the etherified cotton are greater than with native cotton similarly treated. Further modifications of this cotton derivative are discussed. Among these are salt formation for the preparation of bactericidal and fungistatic finishes, reactions for the introduction of cyanoethyl, carboxyethyl, and graft polyester groups, reaction with epoxy and aziridinyl compounds, and oxidation for the preparation of alkali-soluble textile products.
A Study of the Relationship Between Dye Absorption and Cotton Fiber Properties at Equilibrium
Authors: Pal P.N. , Esteve Ramon M.
Published: March 2008

The relation between cotton fiber properties and dye absorption at equilibrium has been studied for nine cotton samples representing a large range of fiber properties. The absorption was studied both for mercerized and unmercerized cotton samples. A relationship was found to exist between dye absorption at equilibrium and the Micronaire and maturity of American Upland type cotton. A linear relationship was found to exist between maturity and dye absorption at equilibrium.

The barium hydroxide absorption also was determined ; similar results were obtained.
Use of Trifluoroacetic Anhydride in Partial Acetylation of Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Hamalainen Carl , Wade Ricardo H. , Cruz Manuel D.
Published: March 2008

Trifluoroacetic anhydride (TFAA) has been found to be an effective esterification promoter in the preparation of experimental quantities of partial cellulose acetates in which the fibrous structure of the original cotton is retained. In this reaction TFAA acts as an impellent and no additional catalyst is required. A method of preparation has been devised, and the effects of time, temperature, and molar ratio of the components in the reaction system have been studied. Optimum reaction conditions are mild with no great degradative effects. Cotton in the form of yarn has been reacted, and the composition and physical characteristics of the modified yarns have been determined.
The Effect of Certain Variables in Warp Sizing on Weavability
Authors: Saffer Henry W. , Rutherford Henry A. , Cates David M.
Published: March 2008

The effect of certain variables (size add-on, degree of polymerization of size, and temperature of application) in sizing was determined in relation to simulated weaving for a cotton yarn sized with poly(ethylene oxide).

Increasing the size add-on decreased the tendency of the sized yarns to shed fibers and size. The effect of resin DP varied with size add-on. At low add-ons an increase in DP was accompanied by an improvement in weavability which was attributed to the concomitant increase in toughness of the resin; after very high values of DP were reached, however, weaving became unsatisfactory, apparently because of poor anchoring of resin to yarn. At high add-ons an increase in resin DP resulted in improved weaving performance for all ranges of DP, and this effect was attributed both to the increase in toughness of the resin film and to the increase in film coverage of the yarn surface and in film thickness achieved at high add-ons. As the temperature of application was raised, penetration of size through yarn increased. This resulted in poor weavability at low DP's; at high DP's, however, weavability was improved, apparently because the increase in temperature permitted better anchoring of size to yarn.
The Nature of Tenaciously Bound Soil on Cotton
Authors: Powe William C.
Published: March 2008

A serious problem in drycleaning and laundering is the progressive deterioration in the appearance of fabrics caused by the gradual accumulation of unremoved and re deposited soil. Electron micrographs of natural soil in situ were taken to determine the identity and particle size of this material. These electron micrographs suggest that clay minerals 0.02-1μ in diameter are the major particulate material causing soil build-up on cotton fibers. Properties of clay minerals which contribute to their form ing strong bonds with cotton fibers are discussed.
Cord Stresses in Inflated Tires
Authors: Lauterbachl Herbert G. , Ames William F.
Published: March 2008

In order to calculate the stresses in the cords of an inflated tire, membrane theory is applied to the cord body. The equation describing the tire surface in terms of tire con struction parameters and cord properties has been given in the literature, but no solu tions have been reported, probably due to its complexity. A solution of this equation, obtained by numerical techniques on a digital electronic computer, is presented in this paper. It is shown how this equation is combined with the equilibrium equations of the surface and how the force components in the principal directions are determined and the cord stresses calculated. The cord stresses in inflated tires are nonuniform, decreas ing from crown to bead.

The deformation of a simple cord network is considered, and it is shown how the cord stretch during tire expansion can be determined. It is found that the cord undergoes nonuniform stretch and shrinkage from crown to bead. These calcuations have been confirmed by experimental x-ray measurements on metal-shadowed cord. It is sug gested that the calculated and observed nonuniform cord stretch and shrinkage during tire expansion and curing are a direct result of the nonuniform cord tension.
Some Effects of Sheep Nutrition on the Mechanical Constants of Wool
Authors: Burgmann V.D.
Published: March 2008

Results are reported of measurements on the mechanical constants of wool from sheep under closely controlled conditions of husbandry and nutrition. The experi mental wool had a change of diameter along individual fibers which was due to a deliberate variation in food intake of the sheep during the growing period. Values for the yield region are given for a Merino and a Corriedale wool. The Merino showed no change due to diameter variation and the Corriedale only a slight change.
Spectrophotometric Measurement of Color in Wool Fabrics
Authors: Lennox F.G.
Published: March 2008

A method is described for measuring the differential absorption spectra of pale- colored fine-wool fabrics in the visible and ultraviolet regions. A strip of the fabric is immersed in a liquid having a refractive index close to that of wool and compared in an ultraviolet spectrophotometer with a similarly immersed uncolored or bleached strip of the same fabric.

The method is applied to the measurement of the absorption spectra of normal un bleached wool fabrics and to fabrics which have been yellowed either by heating at 97° C. in an aqueous buffer solution at pH 8 or by exposure to ultraviolet irradiation. Fabrics which have been dyed or treated with reagents producing colored derivatives of particular amino acid residues in the wool proteins have also been tested. Sizing and finishing agents in the fabric which absorb in the visible or ultraviolet regions are detected by the method.

When wool is yellowed by heating or exposing to ultraviolet irradiation, its absorp tion increases far more in the ultraviolet region of the spectrum, especially at 3100-3300 Å, than in the visible region above 3900 A.
The Dispersion of Wool Protein by Thiols in Acid Solution
Authors: Savige W.E.
Published: March 2008

Wool suffers a loss in weight of up to 50% in 24 hr. on treatment at 50-60° C. with a salt-free aqueous solution of a particular thiol containing sufficient selected acid to bring the pH value to approximately 2. The extent of extraction depends on a number of factors such as temperature, time, pH. and the nature or concentration of thiol, acid, and any salt or other reagent which may be present. The dispersed keratin appears to undergo no appreciable chemical degradation apart from reductive fission of the disulfide bonds of the cystine residues.

Apart from a small amount of residue consisting of cell membranes. wool is com pletely solubilized by treatment with concentrated aqueous thioglycollic acid at 60° C. in the absence of salts.
The Action of Nitric and Hydrochloric Acids on Wool with Particular Reference to Supercontraction of the Fibers
Authors: Crewther W.G. , Dowling L.M.
Published: March 2008

Treatment of wool with 40% (wt./wt.) HNO3 at 0-30° C. for periods up to 18 hr. causes a decrease in sulfhydryl, disulfide, and tyrosine contents and an increase in free amino groups. An equivalent concentration of HCl under similar conditions causes an increase in free amino groups and, with the more severe treatments, a decrease in tyrosine content and an increase in disulfide content as estimated by the Shinohara method. Alkali solubility and trypsin digestibility are greatly increased by the acid treatments; the solubility in urea/bisulfite solution first decreases, then increases with increasing time of treatment. Both acids cause loss of weight of the samples treated for 18 hr. at 30° C.

Apart from a small increase in the initial rate, the kinetics of supercontraction of single fibers in solutions containing 1 N HCl and 4 M LiBr are not greatly changed by acid treatment, nor is the level of the final contraction greatly altered. In 6 M LiBr at pH ca. 6 the nitrated fibers contract very rapidly by 10-15% ; the contraction is then greatly retarded until a slow second stage of contraction develops. With HCl-treated fibers the contraction is again slightly accelerated initially and later retarded, but the changes are smaller and the division into two stages of contraction less apparent. Treat ment with HNO3 causes the fibers to contract more rapidly at all levels of contraction in 4 M LiBr at pH ca. 8, and with the more severe treatments, the initial contraction is followed by a period of elongation and a second slow contraction. On the other hand, HCl-treated fibers contract rapidly to the final level of contraction, but this may be very small. With the more severe treatments in HCl, the initial contraction is followed by elongation to a length approximating the original.

The kinetics of supercontraction are discussed in terms of chemical and configurational changes in the fibers.
Aeration Recovery of Lanolin from Wool Scour Liquors
Authors: Anderson C.A.
Published: March 2008

Further investigation of the aeration process has resulted in an improved design for a continuous recovery plant. On a pilot scale the improved design has permitted throughput rates about 21 times greater than previous designs, with equal recovery efficiencies.
The Physical State of Direct Dyes in Viscose and its Influence on Lightfastness
Authors: Weissbein Leonard , Coven Glenn E.
Published: March 2008

As part of a study on the factors determining the lightfastness of dyes on cellulosic materials, a means of examining the physical state of direct dyes in viscose was developed which makes use of dyed ultrathin films as primary specimens in the electron microscope. When this method was used to examine the physical state of two direct dyes in viscose, their physical state was found to differ markedly. Aggregates of one dye could not be detected in the viscose films at a resolution limit of about 30 Å, whereas aggre gates of the other dye were plainly visible in viscose films dyed under the same conditions. The apparently unaggregated dye exhibited considerably poorer lightfastness on rayon than the one which aggregated in viscose.

The results suggest the use of this method of study to investigate the influence of the physical state of direct dyes in viscose on their lightfastness.
Effect of Cellulase on Cotton Fiber Microstructure
Authors: Porter Blanche R. , Carra Jarrell H. , Tripp Verne W. , Rollins Mary L.
Published: March 2008

Electron microscopical studies of changes in cotton fiber microstructure, after ex posure of the fibers to the cellulase in filtrates prepared from cultures of Myrothecium verrucaria, showed evidence of the transverse, jagged cuts into the cellulose structure previously seen by cytical microscopy. The degradation appeared localized in areas along the length of the fiber which were not related to any recognized component of fiber structure. Micrographs of fragmented, degraded fibers showed etching of the macro- fibrils of the sheets of secondary wall and a sharpening of the image of the individual microfibrils. Continued enzyme attack produced smaller fragments and hydrocellulose- like particles. Measurements of changes in tensile strength, swelling in alkali, and in glucose yield were correlated with changes in microstructure. The extent of fiber degradation by cellulolytic culture filtrates was limited and could be continued only if fibers were swollen between filtrate exposures. No evidence of damage to the cellulose structure was seen which could not be explained hy hydrolysis at the β-1,4-glucosidic linkage.
Mechanical Properties of Feather and Down Fibers
Authors: Dusenbury Joseph H. , Wu Chang-Ning , Dansizer Cornelia J.
Published: March 2008

The elastic moduli of European goose feather barbs and down filaments have been measured at 70° F. and at 65% RH and various pressures of dry air. These latter meas urements at various dry-air pressures have been made to estimate the effects of air- damping on vibroscopic determinations of several fiber properties, have indicated the air-damping effects to be significant but relatively small, and are described in detail in Part II of these papers [6]. A detailed series of measurements has been made at 65% RH and 70° F. of the extensional properties, the bending modulus, and the torsional modulus. The breaking extension is about the same for all the different materials studied, but for the other extensional properties—such as elastic modulus—the properties of the feather barbs are greater than those of the down filaments, and generally the properties of the vane barbs (straight) are greater than those of the fluff barbs (curly). A similar finding holds for the corresponding cross-sectional areas. As in the case of the exten sional properties, the bending and torsional moduli of the feather barbs are greater than those of the down filaments, and vane feather barbs exhibit larger moduli than do fluff barbs. The significance and limitations of these measurements are discussed.
Physical Properties of Chemically Modified Cottons
Authors: McDonald Allan W. , Humphreys Geraldine C. , Grant James N.
Published: March 2008

Yarns from six cottons selected for their widely different fiber characteristics were partially aminized to a degree of substitution averaging about 0.043. Yarns were allowed to contract in length during the chemical reaction but were placed under a small load during the washing and souring processes. Moisture regain and linear density were increased by the treatment. Modified cellulose density and fiber length were decreased. The changes in tenacity and modulus showed inconsistencies among samples of different cottons, with trends similar to those found in mercerization. Decreases in tenacity were found for the fiber bundles but increases for the yarns. The single fibers showed no appreciable changes in tenacity. Secant moduli of fibers and yarns were intermediate , between those of slack and normal length mercerization.
Some Theoretical Considerations of the Dyeing of Cellulose Acetate with Disperse Dyes
Authors: White Howard J.
Published: March 2008

Theoretical aspects of the disperse dyeing of secondary cellulose acetate are considered. Two models for the dyeing process are develpoed provisionally, one based on mixing of polymer segments with absorbed molecules, one based on absorption onto sites within the fiber. From a consideration of the experimental results available, the model based on mixing is rejected as unsatisfactury. The model based on absorption onto sites is quatitativety consistent with most of the experimental results available. Although both models are crude approximations, the qualitative agreement with experiment shown by the site model offers the possibility that it may be used as a stepping stone to further experiments and development of a more exact theory of disperse dyeing for cellulose acetate.
Changes in Fine Structure and Mechanical Properties Induced by Cyanoethylation of Cotton Yarns
Authors: Conrad Carl M. , Stanonis D.J. , Harbrink Pieter , Creely J.J.
Published: March 2008

Cotton yarns were impregnated with 6% sodium hydroxide and reacted in the relaxed state with acrylonitrile at 60° ('. and different periods of time up to 60 min. to give prod ucts with degrees of suhstitution up to 2.6 cyanoethyl groups per anhydroglucose unit. As substitution increases, the x-ray diffraction pattern shows only slight alteration until substitution has exceeded 1.1, after which the crystalline structure rapidly gives way to ' an amorphous structure, complete at about DS = 2.0. At the same time density decreases nearly linearly with substitution. At the stage where the product becomes essentially amorphous, it can be annealed at temperatures of about 175° C. into a new pattern char acteristic of cyanoethyl cellulose. This annealing is accompanied by a substantial density increase. Stress relaxation of the cyanoethylated yarns at a substitution of 1.1 suggests a glass-rubber transition point about 140° C. which becomes more distinct and moves to lower temperatures as substitution increases. At a substitution of about 2.0 the stress relaxation reaches its lowest value (about 4% of the value at 20° C.) at the highest tem peratures tested (220° C.). With further substitution a minimum relaxation at an inter mediate temperature is followed by increasing stress as the temperature is raised. This effect is associated with crystallization. Breaking strength increases slightly at low substitutions but decreases then to less than 50% for the highest substitutions. Elonga tion at break increases gradually, exceeding 100% above the control at DS = 2 and above. Tensile stiffness decreases to about 3% of its initial value. Work of rupture and recovery show considerable decreases below DS = 2, but sharp rises between 2.0 and 2.6. Im mediate elastic recovery is little affected below DS = 2, but rises above this. Delayed elastic recovery shows continuous improvement as substitution increases, eventually ex ceeding the control by nearly 50%.
Supercontracting and Setting Behavior of Modified Wool Fibers
Authors: Haly A.R. , Feughelman M.
Published: March 2008

Ultraviolet irradiation of wool fibers increases their rates of supercontraction in unbuffered LiBr solutions and of setting in boiling water. There is a second, slower effect of ultraviolet shown by a progressive reduction in degree of contraction at equi librium. Treatment with thioglycollic acid or peracetic acid also increases the rates of supercontraction and setting. Iodination or reaction with the Van Slyke reagent reduces the rates. There is little or no loss of tyrosine. and little loss of cystine in the irradiation time which gives the maximum effect on rate of supercontraction. Rate of supercontrac tion, rate of setting, and second-order transition temperature are closely related properties, as are equilibrium contraction, maximum set, and remanent stress.
Preparation and Rates of Hydrolysis of Perfluoro- Esters of Cellulose
Authors: Benerito Ruth R. , Berni Ralph J. , Fagley Thomas F.
Published: March 2008

Partial esters of cellulose varying in degree of substitution from 0.02 to 0.58 were prepared by reacting cellulose immersed in dimethylformamide with either perfluoro butyryl chloride or perfluorooctanoyl chloride in the presence of a tertiary aromatic amine. The use of essentially homogeneous solutions of acid chlorides resulted in prod ucts which retained properties of the original cotton and showed in addition oil and water repellency which was durable to dry cleanings and aqueous launderings in the presence of neutral detergents. Rates of uncatalyzed hydrolysis of the perfluorooctanoyl cellulose esters were determined at 25°, 35°, and 45° C., and the rate of the alkaline catalyzed hydrolysis was estimated at 25° C. The energy and entropy of activation for the uncatalyzed hydrolysis were determined.
Weathering and the Resulting Chemical Changes in Some South African Merino Wools
Authors: Louw D.F.
Published: March 2008

Differences in chemical contposition between root, middle, and tip sections of a num ber of normal crimped and of copper-deficient steely South African Merino wools have been investigated, as well as the influence of these differences on such factors as acid dye absorption, alkali solubility, and urea-bisulfite sotuhitity. In the case of normal wools the loss in cystine and tryptophan and increase in cysteic acid reveal the extent of hydrolytic and oxidative weathering damage and explain subsequent changes in solubility and dye absorption.

The conclusion is reached that copper-deficiency retards fiber keratinization which can, however, continue during aging and weathering of steely wools on the animal's back, resulting in increased cross-linking.

Variations in amino acid content of root and tip sections of normal and steely wools have been found.
Variations in the Equilibrium Weight of Wool at Zero Humidity
Authors: Watt I.C. , Kennett R.H.
Published: March 2008

The equilibrium weight of a wool sample obtained on desorption in vacuo is de pendent on the previous treatment of the sample with respect to water. Exposure to < 5% RH has no effect on the subsequent equilibrium weight in vacuo, but exposure to intermediate relative humiclities causes an increased equilibrium weight in vacuo on subsequent desorption. The maximum rate of increase occurs on exposure to approxi mately 50% RH. Exposure to high relative humidities (near 100%) does not cause an increase in the subsequent equilibrium weight in vacuo.

Initially the increase of equilibrium weight in vacuo is linearly dependent on the time of exposure to a particular relative humidity. Increases are less marked at higher temperatures (> 65° C.). Increases of the equilibrium weight in vacuo can be removed by saturation with liquid water or water vapor prior to desorption.
Effects of Gamma, High-Energy Electron, and Thermal Neutron Radiations on the Fibrillar Structure of Cotton Fibers
Authors: Porter Blanche R. , Tripp Verne W. , deGruy Ines V. , Rollins Mary L.
Published: March 2008

Changes in the structure of cotton fibers after expesure to gamma, high-energy electron, and thermal neutron radiations, in various ambient atmospheres, were evaluated by the techniques of optical and electron microscopy. Radiation exposures evaluated were: gamma rays, 105 to 4 × 108 r.; 2-Mev electrons, 5 × 104 to 108 rep; integrated thermal neutron fluxes, 5 × 1014 to 1017 nvt. Changes in the physical and chemical properties of similarly irradiated fibers have been, or are to be, reported in other pub lications. All irradiated, unmodified cottons could be differentiated from unexposed cottons by optical microscopical observations of samples stained in Nile Blue Sulfate. Gamma ray and electron exposed samples differed from unexposed fibers. in swelling behavior in 0.2 M ( in Cu) cupriethylenediamine hydroxide, but thermal-neutron-irradiated cotton differed from the control only after exposure to an integrated flux of 1017 nvt. Electron micrographs of the fibrillation patterns exhibited by fibers exposed to gamma and electron radiation doses of 5 X 106 to 108 r. or rep on beating in water in a Waring Blender showed the formation of increasingly smaller fragments of samples. Some shortening of fibrils and an increase in number of broken ends of microfibrils were seen in neutron-irradiated cotton exposed to 10" nvt; at lower integrated neutron fluxes, fibrillation was unchanged. No distinct differences were found in microscopical tests between gamma and electron irradiated fibers or between gamma-exposed fibers irradiated in oxygen and nitrogen. At doses of 4 × 10" r. of gamma rays, the trend toward smaller fragments reversed and short chunks of material were observed.

Varying amounts of degradation were observed in modified cottons after irradiation. Smaller fragments were observed in cottons modified to change and reduce the total crystalline cellulose; the fibrillation of acrylonitrile-treated cotton appeared unchanged, but irradiation produced a decrease in the size of fragments of dichloropropanol- and dimethylol cyclic ethyleneurea-modified samples.
Some Principles of Nonwoven Fabrics1
Authors: Backer Stanley , Petterson Dewitt R.
Published: March 2008

The authors compare the mechanical behavior of woven and nonwoven fabrics. They outline the principal mechanisms by which woven cloths deform and recover in manufacture and in end usage. They attempt to formulate a parallel sequence of events in the distortion process for nonwovens and to show how these actions influence the ability of nonwovens to fit smoothty on three-dimensionally curved surfaces, to hang and drape freely, and to recover from bends and tensile extension.

Some results of a research program recently conducted at M.I.T. on nonwovens are presented. This study is related to the directional tensile behavior of nonwoven fabrics and demonstrates how knowledge of fiber properties and web structure can be used effectively to predict web behavior. Fiber behavior measured on the Instron provide the material constants necessary for insertion in derived analytical expressions , for nonwoven fabric stiffness and contraction ratios. Predicted nonwoven behavior shows reasonable agreement with experimental measurements on the particular materials studied.
Experiments on Wool from Copper-Deficient Sheep
Authors: Burley R.W. , Horden F.W.A.
Published: March 2008

The action of trypsin on oxidized normal and copper-deficient wool has been ex amined by ( i ) N -terminal-residue estimations and (ii) paper electrophoresis and chromatography on the tryptic digests. Trypsin readily solubilizes oxidized wool but does not digest it completely, probably because of its high cysteic-acid concentration. Little difference was found between normal and copper-deficient wool, although the latter gave a smaller amount of a certain group of acidic peptides. Preliminary tests on the chromatography of the tryptic digests using ion-exchange resins are reported.
Some Aspects of the Reaction between Urea and Cellulose
Authors: Segal Leon , Eggerton F.V.
Published: March 2008

A reaction occurs between cellulose and urea when cellulose and an aqueous solution of urea are heated to an elevated temperature. Evidence for reaction are (1) insolu bility of the treated cellulose in cupriethylenediamine, (2) changed infrared absorption spectrum, (3) nitrogen content unaffected by boiling water, (4) changed dyeing proper ties, and (5) modified moisture regain. There is no change in the cellulose X-ray dif fraction pattern, and all of the original cellulose properties are restored by boiling in 2% caustic solution. The urea treatment does not affect the textile properties of cotton fabric. Biuret also reacts with cellulose giving a product having the same properties as the material treated with urea.
Comparative Wool Scouring Studies
Authors: Williams V.A.
Published: March 2008

In laboratory trials on samples from individual fleeces solvent degreasing has shown a higher yield than aqueous alkaline scouring. Differences of 0.5% to 1.4% of clean dry fiber are found when solvent degreasing is compared with traditional soap-soda scouring.

Evidence is presented showing that the difference in yield is due to dissolution of oxidized protein material from the tip portion of the wool fiber by hot alkaline scouring solutions.

Regain of scoured wool at standard conditions is found to vary with the method of cleaning. Wool cleaned by solvent or neutral detergent has a lower regain than that from alkaline scouring.
Graft Polymerization of Acrylamide onto Cotton Fabric for Further Treatments
Authors: Kamogawa H. , Sekiya T.
Published: March 2008

Effects of variables in the graft polymerization of acrylamide onto cotton fabric using ceric ammonium nitrate as catalyst have been investigated. Trials to impart a durable creaseproofing effect to the polyacrylamide-grafted fabric by the incorporation of cross-links between graft chains of different cellulose molecules by means of a methylene-bisamide linkage (-CONHCH2HNOC-) have been made. A sharp maxi mum is found in the values of the apparent amount of grafting plotted against the pH values of treating solutions; correlations of effects of these variables with the mechanism of polymerization are described. Data are presented to explain the formation of a chemical bond between cellulose and polyacrylamide by means of solubility character istics in cuprammonium solution. Data on durability to acid extraction and alkaline laundering, as well as on mechanical properties of the aftertreated fabrics, the most excellent of which is obtained by the acid-cure of methylolated polyacrylamide-grafted fabric alone, or particularly with adipamide, are also given.
Thermal Neutron Irradiation of Cotton'
Authors: Blouin Florine A. , Arthur Jett C. , Orr Rollin S. , Ott Vega J.
Published: March 2008

Purified cotton samples were irradiated in a "pure" source of thermal neutrons in the dosage range of 5 × 1014 through 1 X 1017 neutrons per cm.2 Neutron irradiation produced chain cleavage, carboxyl groups, and reducing groups in the cotton cellulose. The water solubility of the cotton was not appreciably affected in this dosage range. The wet and dry strengths and the elongation of the cotton were decreased by neutron irradiation. The uniformity of strength along the fiber length was only slightly lowered. The reducing groups produced in the neutron-irradiated cotton were shown to be markedly different in degree of reaction with sodium chlorite, copper equivalence, and influence on alkali sensitivity from the reducing aldehyde groups produced by periodate oxidation of cotton cellulose. A close similarity between the effects of thermal neutron and gamma ray irradiation on cotton was observed.
Measurement of the Modulus of Dynamic Elasticity of Staple Fibers
Authors: Weyland H.G.
Published: March 2008

A description is given of an apparatus with the aid of which the modulus of dynamic elasticity of fibers can be determined at about 1000 cycles/sec. as a function of the strain. In principle the dynamic elasticity constant of the fiber is determined by measuring the resonance frequency of a cantilever spring which is loaded with the fiber.

The results of measurements on various types of natural, regenerated, and synthetic fibers are given.