bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Kinetics of the Crosslinking Reaction of Cotton Catalyzed with Mixtures of Aluminum Salts and Tartaric Acid
Authors: Chen C.C.
Published: March 2008

We have determined the physical properties of cotton fabrics treated with di methyloldimethyldihydroxyethyleneurea in the presence of aluminum salts, tartaric acid, or their mixtures under various curing conditions. We have also investigated the kinetics of the cellulose-DMDMDHEU reaction catalyzed by 0.015 M of various ratios of aluminum sulfate and tartaric acid mixtures in the 50 to 120°C temperature range. We calculated the specific reaction rate constant and activation parameters for the reaction, and found that the transition state complex at lower curing temperatures (<100°C) differs from that formed at higher curing temperatures (≥ 100°C). We also compared the activation parameters of a single catalyst with the values of the mixed catalyst, and measured the IR spectra of DMDMDHEU and the baked materials of DMDMDHEU + catalyst.
Factors Affecting Rotor Spinning of Fine Cotton Yarns
Authors: Steadman Robert G. , Gipson Jack R. , Mehta R.D. , Soliman Ahmed S.
Published: March 2008

To examine some of the challenges of extending rotor spinning to finer cotton yams, we performed a set of experiments combining five factors: fiber type, presence or absence of combing, sliver weight, yarn count, and twist level. We assessed processing behavior by the end-break rate, using a BD200S rotor spinner, and yam quality by tests of evenness, single-end tenacity, and appearance. The design of the combined experiment was sensitive to interactions of these factors. Compared with control con ditions (spinning carded sliver of a coarse stripper cotton with a sliver weight of 4.2 ktex at weaving twist to a yarn of 30 tex ), trials with other combinations yielded several significant interactions. At the finest count (13 tex), the experimental cottons, notably the low micronaire variety, were all more spinnable than the fiber typically used in rotor spinning. Combing lowered end-break rate by a factor of approximately 3.5 under most conditions and improved yam properties. Reducing draft by halving the weight of input sliver reduced end-break rate appreciably for all except the control cotton, but had little effect on yam properties. The lower (knitting) twist was not feasible when using a four-groove navel with the shorter cottons, but it improved yarn evenness. This favors knitting over weaving yarns at fine counts. The longer staple cottons showed less need for a higher twist, but had poorer fiber strength utilization at all twists.
Degradation of the Copper (II)-Wool Keratin Complex by Hydrogen Peroxide
Authors: Fukatsu Kazuhiko
Published: March 2008

In the copper(II)-wool keratin complex and hydrogen peroxide system, we have studied the relation between the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide and the deg radation of wool keratin fiber. We measured the catalytic action of the copper(II)- wool keratin complex in hydrogen peroxide decomposition. The copper(II) ion has a great deal of catalytic activity, while the copper(II)-wool keratin complex exhibits less activity. The decomposition of hydrogen peroxide occurs with the degradation of wool keratin fiber, fragmenting the keratin molecule. The fragments experience a random coil-α-helix transition in ethanol-water mixtures with increasing ethanol component. This behavior is similar to that of charged polyamino acids, but the keratin fragments undergo a less sharp transition in comparison with charged polyamino acids.
Diagnostic Procedures for Multicollinearity Between HVI Cotton Fiber Properties
Authors: El Mogahzy Yehia E. , Broughton Roy M.
Published: March 2008

An advanced statistical procedure for diagnosing multicollinearity between HVI fiber properties is demonstrated. The procedure consists of sequential analyses in which validation of a regression model is examined, diagnostic procedures for collinearity are demonstrated, and remedies for the problem of collinearity are proposed. This paper is presented to textile scientists in an effort to introduce new statistical techniques that should improve the performance of linear multiple regression analyses relating HVI fiber properties to yam strength.
Characterization of Proteinaceous Contaminants Extracted from Scoured Wool and Wool Top
Authors: Elling L. , Zahn H.
Published: March 2008

This study presents a combination of methods by which the proteinaceous contam inants (PC) removed from scoured wool and wool top are characterized. The com ponent analysis of PC reveals that keratinized skin proteins (stratum corneum) are mainly present on industrially scoured wool. The composition of PC on scoured wool is different from that on raw wool, indicating different mechanisms of removal for the PC components (skin flakes and stratum corneum). The proteinaceous material re moved from wool tops with a low brightness consists mainly of skin flakes. The results suggest that these skin flakes serve as an adsorption matrix for fine mineral dirt. By the methods presented in this study, it is possible to distinguish between PC components and cuticle removed from wool and to evaluate the importance of PC in relation to the properties of scoured wool and wool tops.
Production of Regenerated Cellulose Fibers Without Carbon Disulfide
Authors: Chegolya A.S. , Grinshpan D.D. , Burd E.Z.
Published: March 2008

The dissolving ability and technological suitability of different cellulose solvent systems are compared. Based on a critical analysis of the available literature and ex perimental data, the dimethylformamide-dinitrogen tetroxide system is the most suit able solvent from the point of view of solution preparation and fiber production. The principal parameters of the technological process for manufacturing regenerated cel lulose fibers by the "Camilon" process are compared with those for the viscose process. The Camilon process is demonstrated to have ecological and economical advantages. Composite fibers of cellulose and various synthetic polymers are considered. The special properties of cellulose solutions in zinc chloride and the regenerated cellulose fibers produced from these solutions are discussed.
Fenton's Reagent Initiated Graft Copolymerization of Methyl Methacrylate onto Jute Fibers
Authors: Das J. , Mohanty A.K. , Singh B.C.
Published: March 2008

Graft copolymerization of methyl methacrylate (MMA) onto chemically modified jute fibers has been studied using the Fe2+-H2O2 (Fenton's reagent) redox initiator system. The effects of reaction time, temperature, and varying concentrations of monomer, Fe2+, H2O2, sulfuric acid and amount of jute fiber on graft yield have been studied, as well as the effects of some organic solvents and inorganic salts on graft . yield. Optimum conditions for affording maximum grafting are evaluated and the percent grafting is expressed as functions of different reaction variables.
Theoretical Study of Wrapping Twist in Single Jet False Twist Spinning
Authors: Krause H.W. , Soliman H.A.
Published: March 2008

A new mathematical approach is presented to explain the structure of a jet-spun staple yarn. The mechanism of how edge fibers wrap around the yarn core is explained, and the effects of the main parameters that determine the wrapping twist are inves tigated. The important factors are the position of the edge fiber when contacting the yam core, the length of the edge fiber, and the twis level of the core upstream from the twisting element. The twisting configuration al g a single wrapping fiber is con sidered, as well as the resulting average twist of multiple edge fibers. The effect of the edge fiber length on its wrapping efficiency is also determined.
Studies of Foam Finished Cotton Fabrics Using FT-IR Photoacoustic Spectroscopy
Authors: Yang Charles Q. , Perenich Theresa A. , Fateley William G.
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabrics were treated with dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) and methylated DMDHEU using conventional padding and a foam finishing tech nique. The finished fabrics were studied using Fourier transform infrared photoacoustic spectroscopy (FT-IR/PAS). Both finishing agents appeared to have a more homo geneous distribution in the foam finished fabrics than in the conventionally finished fabrics. This probably explains the observation that wrinkle recovery angle was generally higher for foam finished fabrics than for conventionally finished fabrics, since a more homogeneous distribution of the finishing agents allows more cotton cellulose to be crosslinked throughout the fabrics.
Use of Cellulose Ethers in Migration Control
Authors: Lambert Allan H. , Harper Robert J.
Published: March 2008

A novel approach to restricting migration of reagents during drying of cotton textiles is to add thermal gels such as cellulose ethers. Aqueous solutions of cellulose ethers such as methyl cellulose have the unique property of forming gels when heated in the range of 323 to 363 K, are metabolically inert, exhibit a wide range of viscosities, provide pH stability from 3 to 11, have no ionic charge, and exhibit a moderate surface tension of 44 to 56 mN/m. Cellulose ethers can also be used at low concentrations. The gelling property helps to restrict or "lock" the reagent solution applied to the fabric during drying and therefore partially prevents migration. Methyl cellulose is combined with a crosslinker, padded onto cotton printcloth, dried, cured, and washed. The effects of drying rates and reagent concentrations on textile properties and uni formity of crosslink distribution are presented.
Discrete-Event Simulation in the Design of Textile Finishing Processes
Authors: Livingston Don L. , Sommerfeld Jude T.
Published: March 2008

The General Purpose Simulation System (GPSS) was used to model and perform a discrete-event simulation of a large textile finishing mill, producing a variety of woven and knit fabrics for sheeting and men's and women's apparel. This model was validated with actual mill operating data. Simulations were made to determine the effects of market demands, maintenance practices, quality control policies, and total production on equipment and manpower utilization, work-in-process, inventory, and total processing time. For this particular mill, the numbers of dye machines represented the primary bottleneck in increasing mill capacity, and the effect of adding more such machines on capacity was studied in further simulations.
Pyrolysis Gas Chromatography of Wool
Authors: Marmer William N. , Magidman Paul , Farrell Harold M.
Published: March 2008

Although determination of tyrosine and most other amino acids is straightforward by conventional methods of amino acid analysis, determination of tryptophan is dif ficult and time-consuming due to its sensitivity to acid-catalyzed protein hydrolysis. Pyrolysis gas chromatography (Py-GC) therefore was investigated as an alternative method for tryptophan analysis. Py-GC revealed that wool gives rise to indole and skatole from degradation of its tryptophanyl residues, along with phenol' and para- cresol from its tyrosyl residues. To test Py-GC for determining tryptophan content relative to tyrosine content, mixtures of poly-tryptophan and poly-tyrosine were used to establish a linear relationship between the peak area ratio indole/(phenol + para- cresol) and the tryptophan / tyrosine molar ratio (Trp/Tyr). The polypeptide data were supplemented with data from pyrolysis of several proteins of known Trp/Tyr ratio. The supplemental data also were used to confirm the utility of the linear rela tionship in deriving a Trp/Tyr ratio for an unknown protein. The accuracy of the derived Trp/Tyr ratio diminished somewhat when the tryptophan content was low; using Py-GC, wool was predicted to have one tryptophan for every eight to nine tyrosines, as opposed to one for every seven tyrosines using conventional amino acid analysis. The method permitted facile monitoring of tryptophan degradation in wool during treatment with dimethyl sulfoxide in hydrochloric and acetic acid. There also was a strong indication of tryptophan degradation during wool carbonizing.
Abrasion Studies of Sized Cotton Yarns Before and After Weaving
Authors: Friedman Henry L. , Miller Bernard , Kepka Stanislaw , Moreau Jerry P.
Published: March 2008

Cotton warp yams treated with various sizing formulations were subjected to weaving trials. Warp yams extracted from the greige fabrics (woven yarns) and those from their antecedent loom beams (feed yarns) were subjected to abrasion resistance mea surements with the Zweigle yam abrader and TRI's multistation cyclic tensile abrader (CTA), as well as to tensile measurements of breaking force. CTA abrasion resistance values were much more sensitive to differences in size treatments than Zweigle values, and there were significant differences in the rankings by the two methods. In general, correlations were good between weaving performance and CTA values for both feed and woven yams and Zweigle values for feed yams only. A statistical analysis was developed for finding the fraction of "most vulnerable" yam specimens for each sample. Using CTA data, this fraction showed good correlation with weaving performance for both feed and woven yams. Using CTA measure ents of the abrasion resistance of warp yams from greige fabrics to evaluate weavin performance could significantly shorten the time currently devoted to weaving trials. Weaving performance tended to improve with increasing relative tensile breaking force of the feed yams, but there was no such correlation for the woven yams.
Polymerization-Crosslinking of Cotton Fabric for Superior Performance Properties
Authors: Shin Y. , Hollies N.R.S. , Yeh K.
Published: March 2008

A "polymerization-crosslinking" treatment to impart durable press properties to cotton fabric has been investigated, using N-methylolacrylamide as a polymerizing resin and dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) and urea formaldehyde as crosslinkers. Nonconventional treatment techniques such as "wet fixation" and "steam fixation" were used to better facilitate penetration of polymerizing monomers into the fiber interior. Various experimental parameters were studied, and optimum con ditions for each treatment process were determined. Performance properties of cotton fabrics treated using these techniques were evaluated and compared to those treated with DMDHEU using a conventional pad-dry-cure process. Comparing at a similar level of durable press rating, the polymerization-crosslinking treatment gave fabric samples with superior performance properties, including retention of mechanical properties, bending stiffness, and moisture regain. Analysis of the treated samples using scanning electron microscopic, infrared spectroscopic, and dye-staining tech niques has revealed that nonconventional treatment results in significant modification of the fiber structure, which is directly related to the improved performance properties. The results further suggest that these techniqucs can be used to improve fiber properties such as dye affinity, fabric hand, and moisture absorbance through controlled modi fication of fiber structure.
Molecular Characterization of Three Cotton Varieties
Authors: Timpa Judy D. , Ramey Harmon H.
Published: March 2008

Cotton fiber cellulose was dissolved in the solvent dimethyl acetamide with lithium chloride without cleanup or formation of derivatives. Molecular weight distributions of cotton fiber samples were obtained by gel permeation chromatography using com mercially available instrumentation. Upland cotton fiber samples from three varieties (Deltapine Acala 90, Deltapine 41, and DES 422) possessed similar physical properties, indicated by measurements of fiber length, Micronaire, and strength by Stelometer, except for inconsistencies in the HVI strength values compared to those determined by Stelometer. An evaluation of the samples demonstrated different molecular weight distributions, different peak locations of the secondary wall, and different weight average molecular weights.
Expanding the Use of the Rapid Ninhydrin Test Method
Authors: Wang C. , Pailthorpe M.T.
Published: March 2008

The rapid ninhydrin test method established for measuring wool damage in car bonizing has been expanded to examine wool hydrolysis in various wet treatments. bleaching, and exposure to light and to dry heat. The pH range from about 3 to 8.5 was safe for wet treatments, but the extent of hydrolysis damage in wet treatments at 100°C for 1 hour, even in the safe pH range, was greater than that with carbonizing. If the temperature of the wet treatments could be reduced to 90°C. the extent of hydrolysis would reduce to half of its value at 100°C. Wool was highly sensitive to hydrolysis under the action of light, but the action of dry heat did not appear to yield ninhydrin-positive extractable material.
A Comparison of the Response of Cotton and Milkweed to Selected Swelling and Crosslinking Treatments
Authors: Andrews B.A. Kottes , Kimmel Linda B. , Bertoniere Noelie R. , Hebert J.J.
Published: March 2008

Research on experimental fabrics knitted from yams containing cotton and common milkweed fibers has been extended to selected swelling treatments. Results are presented on the response of cotton / milkweed blends to caustic and ammonia mercerization, and to subsequent crosslinking. The physical properties of the mercerized fabrics are described before and after crosslinking with dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea. Dif ferences are noted on the morphology and chemical properties of the cotton and milkweed fibers after the chemical treatments.
Effects of Ultrasound on Dyeing of Nylon 6
Authors: Shimizu Yoshio , Yamamoto Ryoko , Shimizu Hiroko
Published: March 2008

In order to study the effect of ultrasound, amorphous and unoriented nylon 6 films were dyed with disperse, acid, acid mordant, and reactive dyes with and without ultrasound. Dyeings were done at 20, 40, and 60°C. Ultrasound was effective in in creasing the uptakes of all four dyes on nylon 6 at these temperatures. The activation energies of the four dyes decreased with ultrasound. It is clear that ultrasound has an effect on the rate of dyeing on nylon 6.
Longitudinal Fiber Distribution in Relation to Rotor Spun Yarn Properties
Authors: Ishtiaque S.M.
Published: March 2008

A study of the spinning-in coefficient and critical fiber length ratio in sliver explains the longitudinal behavior of rotor spun yam. The results show that fiber length and parallelization in rotor spun yarn are inferior to those in feed sliver. Yarn tenacity varies linearly with spinning-in coefficient. The sliver linear density and number of drawframe passages have significant correlations with the spinning-in coefficient and critical fiber length ratio in sliver. Too high an opening roller speed leads to excessive fiber breakage, thus reducing the spinning-in coefficient. Too low a speed, on the other hand, causes a reduced degree of fiber separation and orientation, which also results in a low spinning-in coefficient and hence lower yarn tenacity.
A Critical Evaluation of the Relationship Between Fiber Quality Parameters and Hairiness of Cotton Yarns
Authors: Viswanathan G. , Munshi V.G. , Ukidve A.V. , Chandran K.
Published: March 2008

A certain level of hairiness in yarn is generally acknowledged as unavoidable because of the practical limitations of mechanical processing machines. Spinners are therefore interested to know the effect of fiber properties on yarn hairiness when selecting suitable raw materials. The literature on parameters such as fiber fineness and short fibre percent reports contradictory trends, while the influence on hairiness of other param eters such as uniformity ratio and fiber quality index is not considered. In this paper, we have investigated the influence of fiber characteristics on the hairiness of cotton yarns.
Effects of Heat Setting on Tensile and Dye Sorption Characteristics of Anionic Modified PET-A Comparison With Normal PET
Authors: Pal S.K. , Mehta Y.C. , Gandhi R.S.
Published: March 2008

Anionic modified and normal poly(ethylene terephthalate) yarns were heat set at temperatures from 100 to 220°C and times from 3.75 to 45 seconds. Tensile properties, critical dissolution times, and dye sorption of these yarns were examined as a function of time and temperature of heat stabilization. Melting behavior (DSC thermograms), thermal stress, and critical dissolution times vary as a function of time and temperature of heat setting in the same way for both cationic dyeable and normal PET yams.
Tearing of Fastenings Through Woven Fabrics: A Simple Theory
Authors: Lloyd D.W.
Published: March 2008

The development of a simple theory, designed to explain the main factors influencing the force required to tear a fastening through a woven fabric, is continued from Part I. That paper dealt with tearing parallel to the warp or weft diroctions; the more complex case of tearing in the bias direction is covered here.
Effect of Processing Parameters on the Properties of Double-Rove Spun Yarn Produced on a Short Staple Spinning System
Authors: Subramaniam V. , Srinivasamoorthi V.R. , Mohamed A. Peer
Published: March 2008

This paper is concerned with the optimization of a double-rove spinning process in the short staple spinning system, using Box and Hunter's technique of a central compound rotatable design. The influences of strand spacing, twist, and spindle speed on yarn tensile and regularity properties are discussed.
Evaluation of Fiber and Yam from Three Cotton Fiber Mutant Lines
Authors: Triplett Barbara A.
Published: March 2008

Analysis of the biochemical factors required for improved cotton fiber growth is aided by a collection of near isogenic mutants. The cotton mutants (Gossypium hir sutum L. Texas Marker-1 background ) tested in this study include immature fiber, pilose, and naked seed. Fiber physical properties for each mutant were determined for two years of greenhouse-grown and one year of field-grown cotton plants. Yarn spun from 50-gram fiber samples was subjected to physical properties testing. A com parison of open-end and ring spinning methods was made for two of the fiber samples. The comparison of nep content in yam and fiber between the mutants and Texas Marker-1 control lines shows one mutant (naked seed) with a substantial reduction in biological nep content. Another mutant, pilose, has a substantial increase in bio logical neps over the control fiber. Quantitative data on fiber physical properties ob tained from this study support the mostly descriptive information previously reported for these mutants lines.
Quantitative Analysis of Durable Press Resin on Cotton Fabrics Using Near-Infrared Reflectance Spectroscopy
Authors: Ghosh Subhas , Cannon Michael D. , Roy R.B.
Published: March 2008

Two durable press resins, DMDHEU and DMeDHEU, most commonly used in finishing cotton fabrics, were analyzed using near-infrared (NIR) reflectance spec troscopy. The NIR procedure was an acceptable technique for determining the amount of fixed resin on the fabrics. A three-wavelength regression model was used to quan titatively analyze the durable press resin. The NIR values correlated very strongly with the conventional Kjeldahl values with r2= 0.96. NIR spectra of DMDHEU and DMeDHEU are discussed.
Factors Affecting the Tensile Properties of Nonmercerized and Mercerized Cotton Fibers
Authors: Haig Zeronian S. , Kawabata Hiroko , Alger Kenneth W.
Published: March 2008

When a G. hirsutum cotton fiber was suspended under tension in water and then allowed to dry without removing the stress, its strength increased and its extensibility decreased. If the sample was slack mercerized before the treatment, its strength and extensibility changes were not as marked. The altered properties of the nonmercerized cotton are ascribed to the water inducing plasticization of the fiber, thus permitting the structural units of the sample to readjust as its convolutions began to untwist and as creep occurs. By comparing the properties of the nonmercerized and mercerized counterparts, we propose that the increased strength and extensibility of cotton with slack mercerization is due to the swelling effects of this treatment, which causes un twisting of the fiber and reduces its degree of crystallinity and its crystallite lengths.
SEM Studies of the Surface and Fracture Morphology of Pineapple Leaf Fibers
Authors: Saha S.C. , Das B.K. , Ray P.K. , Pandey S.N. , Goswami K.
Published: March 2008

The structural features and fracture morphology of raw and chemically treated pineapple leaf fiber have been studied using scanning electron microscopy. Pineapple leaf has a multicellular structure, and alkali treatment clearly reveals the ultimate fibers. Surface morphology progressively changes with gradual removal of noncehulosic constituents like lignin and hemicellulose. Fracture morphology shows that there is a uniform sharing of the load in the ultimate fibers of raw pineapple leaf, whereas treated leaf shows irregular fractures characterized by the slippage of individual ultimate fibers.
Properties and Structure of Never-Dried Cotton Fibers
Authors: Tsuji W. , Nakao T. , Mori M. , Yamauchi Y.
Published: March 2008

Field-opened cotton fibers show remarkable torsional rotation during ambient hu midity changes between about 30% and 100%. If the never-dried cotton fibers are freeze-dried or treated with NaOH (-urea) and acrylonitrile, the resulting fibers have fewer convolutions, lower torsional rotation during humidity changes, and lower spe cific gravity and higher moisture regain than air-dried fibers. There is no definite correlation between number or direction of fiber convolutions and maximum angle or direction of torsional rotation during humidity changes. The tensile strength of never-dried wet fibers is low and increases when dried; it does not decrease with rewet ting, but increases further.
Reversals in Cotton: A Study with Scanning Electron Microscopy
Authors: Patel G.S. , Iyer P. Bhama , Sreenivasan S. , Iyer K.R. Krishna
Published: March 2008

The fibrillar morphology of the reversal zones in cotton fibers swollen in aqueous zinc chloride (ZnCl 2) is examined using scanning electron microscopy. There are dis tinct differences in the size of fibrillar aggregates on the two sides of structural reversals in some of the ZnCl2 treated fibers in all four varieties of cotton studied. These dif ferences seems to suggest that fibrils flanking a structural reversal could differ in their fineness levels.
Nylon 66 Carpet Streaks Versus Fiber Crimp and Dyeability
Authors: Miller R.W. , Southern J.H.
Published: March 2008

Texturing conditions were systematically varied in a factorial experiment, and the resulting yams characterized for crimp, relative dyeability, and propensity to form streaks in two-ply saxony carpets. The streaks were highly correlated with crimp rather than dye variations, with high and low crimp yarn implants producing light and dark streaks, respectively. The crimp level was also quantitatively correlated with texturing changes and a novel carpet tuft compression measurement. This analytical tool allows, for the first time, confirmation. of crimp-related carpet streaks.
Global Modeling of a Textile Process
Authors: Polo C. , Pepio M.
Published: March 2008

The latest enhancements in off-line quality control deal with the possible functional relationship between the variability of the process response and the regressors ( exper imental variables controlled by the experimenter and measured with negligible error). In the past, the analysis of experimental data generally focused on means or location parameters, and variability was only taken into account to apply generalized least squares. Currently, however, the dispersion parameters are estimated using a least squares analysis of the logarithm of the sum of the squared deviations from the within- replications mean. The adopted dispersion model is used thereafter to reduce the location model to homoscedasticity to obtain a global model, which will help to as certain the conditions that make the best of a process, i.e. minimum variance, closeness to target, and robustness to noise.
Profile of Lockstitch Seams: A Theoretical Study
Authors: Amirbayat J.
Published: March 2008

Equations are derived for the profile of lockstitch seams in terms of three dimen sionless groups, which can in turn be used to analyze the geometry of a lockstitch seam and the locking point location. These equations can be used to investigate seam deformation as well as, for example, pressure distribution and bending and compression energies.
Mechanical Properties of Fabric Woven from Yarns Produced by Different Spinning Technologies: Yarn Failure in Woven Fabric
Authors: Seo Moon H. , Realff Mary Lynn , Pan Ning , Boyce Mary , Schwartz Peter , Backer Stanley
Published: March 2008

A study has been conducted on the mechanisms of in-situ tensile failure of staple yams during uniaxial tensioning, as in a conventional ravel strip test. The yarns were PET/cotton blends processed on ring, rotor, and airjet spinning systems, and then woven into plain or twill weave fabrics. Load-extension behaviors of the yarns were recorded for the in-fabric state as well as for the free state (out-of-fabric), and SEM comparisons were made of the fractured yam ends obtained in the two states. When the tensioned yarns became jammed between cross yarns before straightening, the fracture ends were abrupt, similar to those observed in near zero gauge length tests of free-state yarns. However, when fabric structure was such that tensioned yams could straighten without cross yam jamming, the resulting failure zones were considerably longer, with a mixture of fiber fracture and slippage similar to that observed in long gauge length tests of free-state yams. The interaction between yarn properties and weave geometry had a strong influence on the local disturbance of cloth structure resulting from isolated yam failure during fabric tensioning. The extent of such dis turbance permitted estimates of the stress recovery length of the failed yam and showed its dependence on cloth tightness and yarn type.
Mechanics of Woven Fabrics
Authors: Seyam A. , El-Shiekh Aly
Published: March 2008

Extensive coverage of previous work in the area of weavability limit theories, their experimental validation, and their practical importance is reviewed. The review also includes previous work on maximum construction relationships derived empirically, as well as a comparison of different theories and empirical studies.
Innovation in Polyester Fibers: From Silk-Like to New Polyester
Authors: Fukuhara Mototada
Published: March 2008

In the past several years, "Shingosen," or new synthetic fibers have been developed in Japan. Polyester fibers and fabrics have attained a new status among other synthetic and natural fibers and textiles, and the Japanese have begun to recognize that recent polyester products are comparable to natural fibers such as silk. Shingosen is used typically in synthetic silk applications. The progress and relating key technologies for Shingosen production, which are focused on new silky textiles, are reviewed in this paper.
Solvent Texturing of Polyester Yarn
Authors: Hashemi-Pour M. , Tucker P.A.
Published: March 2008

Poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) structure and morphology were modified and set during a continuous false twist solvent texturing process. Three yam types were included in this study: partially oriented yam (POY), high speed spun yarn (HSSY), and an experimentally extruded yarn known as quenched high speed spun yarn (QHSSY). A prototype continuous false twist solvent texturing machine was used to produce textured samples (thermally as well as with solvents). Excessive extensibility of POY was virtually eliminated by drawing on the machine, in the same zone as the solvent treatment, but this action reduced solvent diffusion into the filaments. HSSY crystallinity increased slightly, about 8% during solvent texturing, the main reason being a large amount of initial crystallinity for the feed yam. QHSSY was most suitable for solvent texturing, since it initially contains a large amount of oriented noncrystalline material that is crystallized during texturing. Textured QHSSY set by solvent plus heat, in comparison with heat only, increased significantly in percent crystallinity and crys tallite dimensions.
Strength Properties of Cotton Blend Yarns
Authors: Frydrych Iwona
Published: March 2008

This paper discusses two methods of predicting strength properties of ring spun cotton blend yams produced using a normal technological process. Another facet of the research is the application of fiber parameters obtained on a high volume instrument ( HVI ) to the predictions. Fiber strength as measured by breaking individual fibers is higher than that measured on the HVI line using the bundle method, and the mean and mean ratio of these values is 1.34. The experimental results and the strength predictions are compared.
An Analysis of Fabric Large Strain Shear Behavior Using Linear Viscoelasticity Theory
Authors: Asvadi Sima , Postle Ron
Published: March 2008

Linear viscoelastic theory is used to analyze fabric shear behavior under high shear strain conditions (up to maximum shear angles of 20°). A fabric trellis shear test method yields shear relaxation data as well as residual shear strain. Interfiber frictional stress in fabric shear under high shear strain conditions is evaluated.
Effect of Catalyst on the Pore Structure and Performance of Cotton Cellulose Crosslinked with Butanetetracarboxylic Acid
Authors: Bertoniere Noelie R. , King Walter D. , Welch Clark M.
Published: March 2008

Pore structures of cotton crosslinked with butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) and different catalysts were assessed. The catalysts included NaH2PO2.H 2O, Na- H2PO 3.2.5H2O, Na2HPO3.5H2O, NaH2PO4.H2O, Na2HPO4, Na4P2O7, and Na2CO3. Treatments were applied to all-cotton printcloth using a pad-dry-cure process. Textile performance properties were determined for the treated fabrics. Pore size dis tribution was assessed on Wiley milled fabric using a reverse gel permeation chro matographic technique. The water soluble molecular probes employed were sugars and ethylene glycols. Plots were prepared of V, , the accessible internal water, versus the molecular diameters of the probes. In addition, internal structure differences were elucidated by moisture regain, considered to be a measure of the internal surface of the cotton fiber in the conditioned state, and water of imbibition, a measure of internal volume in the water-swollen state. There were definite patterns in textile performance with the different catalysts. The total volume in residual small pores was inversely related to the resilience level achieved, and retained breaking strength was directly related to the volume in residual small pores. Patterns with respect to abrasion resistance were more complex. Because BTCA add-ons were comparable, the data suggest that the more effective catalysts, NaH2PO2 and NaH2PO3, are effecting either a greater number of crosslinks in the cotton or producing crosslinks that differ in actual structure.
Simulating Textile Padding with Vacuum Extraction
Authors: Broadbent Arthur D. , Bao Xulei , Hamoudi Safia , Kong Xiao Xing
Published: March 2008

Mass balance equations have been solved to simulate textile padding followed by vacuum extraction and recycling for seven equipment configurations. These equations include five parameters describing a number of perturbations that change the con centration of the chemical solution being applied: evaporation of the solution under vacuum, incomplete recovery of the chemical after vacuum extraction, preferential absorption of the chemical or of water from the applied solution before the pad nip or between the nip and the vacuum extractor, hydrolysis of the reactive group of a dye or chemical, and desorption of water or chemical already present in the fabric being treated. Methods for determining numerical values for the parameters describing these effects are given. In addition, the model also includes bath overflow and deviation of the extracted solution to a recovery unit. A number of typical process simulations are given, demonstrating time dependence and magnitude of concentration changes for single or combinations of effects. Since the conditions for steady-state operation are easily calculated, the required quantity of chemical in the fabric can be maintained constant from the start of the process.
Enzymatic Hydrolysis of Cotton, Linen, Ramie, and Viscose Rayon Fabrics
Authors: Buschle-Diller G. , Zeronian S.H. , Pan N. , Yoon M.Y.
Published: March 2008

Cotton, linen, ramie, and viscose rayon fabrics along with a cotton / linen blend were hydrolyzed with cellulase from Trichoderma viride. Surface fibrils were eliminated by a 6 hour treatment in all cases. The loss of fibrillar matter appeared to be the primary cause of weight loss at this stage. On prolonged treatment, cotton, linen, and viscose rayon lost weight at a faster rate than ramie and the cotton / linen blend. The fall in yam strength was progressive with increasing weight loss for cotton and viscose, while for linen and ramie it was slight initially and then increased sharply. Retention of strength after 48 hours' incubation time increased in the order viscose rayon << cotton < ramie < linen, whereas weight loss increased in the order ramie < linen < cotton < viscose rayon. X-ray crystallinity and moisture sorption of the samples did not change after the treatment, indicating that the mechanism of endwise attack of the cellulase at accessiblc cellulose chains on crystallite surfaces appeared to apply to all four fibers. The location of enzymatic attack could be monitored with a light microscope using Congo red staining in the case of cotton and linen, but not ramie or rayon. Changes in surface morphology could be followed for all the enzyme-treated fibers by scanning electron microscopy. Additionally, mechanical tests demonstrated the changes in stretchability and stiffness of the fabrics and the mobility of yams within the samples.
Parametric Study of Leakage Flow in Braided Fiber Seals
Authors: Cai Zhong , Mutharasan Rajakkannu , Ko Frank K. , Steinetz Bruce M.
Published: March 2008

In applications of braided fiber engine seals, the preload and engine pressures are the two main parameters determining seal leakage, and experiments evaluating seal leakage flow are designed using these pressures. To simplify seal performance evalu ation, an empirical expression for the relationship of seal leakage resistance against preload and engine pressures is proposed. The basis for this approach is that seal leakage resistance depends on both preload and engine pressures. The physics of these pressure effects is studied both theoretically and experimentally. The main effect of preload pressure is to change seal porosity and thus leakage flow resistance. At the low porosity range of seal fiber architecture, seal porosity change due to imposed engine pressure is negligible; the effect of engine pressure is related to the flowing fluids, which also contribute to overall seal leakage resistance. Experimental data show that the proposed empirical model can be used to predict seal leakage within a range of engine and preload pressures of practical interest. Its simple form is advantageous in estimating seal performance under various pressures.
Mechanistic Role of Yarn and Fabric Structure in Determining Tear Resistance of Woven Cloth
Authors: Scelzo W.A. , Backer S. , Boyce M.C.
Published: March 2008

The goal of this study is to acquire an understanding of the manner in which cotton yam properties (including structure) contribute to the tear resistance of woven fabrics as measured by the tongue tear test. Our approach to this overall goal is a three step process. First, we examined samples during and after failure to identify the important phenomena that contribute to tearing strength, termed the subcomponents of tear. Next, we designed tests to observe the isolated contributions of pull-in (of yams into the del zone), pull-ahead (of yams towards the untorn fabric), and yam tenacity. Finally, in Part II of this paper, we will describe a model based on a mechanical spring analogy that will allow us to predict load-displacement responses of woven fabrics being torn.
Dynamic Mechanical Properties, Superstructure, and Texturability of PA 6.6 Partially Oriented Yarns
Authors: Kveder Sonja Malej , Rijavec Tatjana
Published: March 2008

The results of dynamic mechanical testing of five industrially produced partially oriented yams (POY) and two conventionally spun and drawn PA 6.6 filament yams are presented, along with some of their structural parameters. Dynamic mechanical spectra of POY samples differ from conventionally spun and drawn yams across the entire testing temperature range from 20 to 260°C according to their superstructure parameters. Differences in the low temperature range are primarily due to amorphous orientation, whereas differences in the high temperature range are ascribed to the perfection and stability of the crystalline structure. Preoriented yams of lower orien tation and unstable crystalline structure are more suitable for the simultaneous false- twist draw texturing process than the POY with more stable crystalline structures and higher orientation.
Nonphosphorus Catalysts for Formaldehyde-Free DP Finishing of Cotton with 1,2,3,4-Butanetetracarboxylic Acid
Authors: Choi Hyung-Min , Welch Clark M. , Morris Nancy M.
Published: March 2008

We examined catalyrtic activities of mono- or disodium salts of fumaric, maleic, and itaconic acids for the reaction of 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid ( BTCA ) with cotton cellulose. Evidence for esterification and crosslinking of cellulose with BTCA in the presence of these carboxylic acid salts was shown by improved durable press rating and conditioned wrinkle recovery angles of the treated fabric and the presence of ester groups in the treated fabric by FTIR analyses. In addition, FTIR and FT- Raman analyses revealed that these carboxylic acid salts did not participate in formation of permanent linkages with cellulose and BTCA.
A New Carpet Wear Simulator
Authors: Pourdeyhimi B. , Ramanathan R. , Javadpour S.
Published: March 2008

Changes in the appearance of carpet pile are brought about by several methods of mechanical wear. These machines subject carpet samples to a compression force. We introduce a new system where the samples are subjected to repeated torsion and compression loads. Changes in appearance are monitored and quantified using image analysis methods.
Tensile Properties and Static Fatigue Behavior of Cotton Warp Yams
Authors: Anandjiwala Rajesh D. , Carmical Mike , Goswami Bhuvenesh C.
Published: March 2008

Warp yams under a state of dynamic loading on a loom have to withstand cumulative damage caused by tensile fatigue at relatively low loads coupled with the abrasive action of the machine parts. To evaluate the fatigue phenomenon of sized cotton yams and its correlation with performance on a loom, one must first understand basic mechanical properties of yams in terms of fiber properties and fiber length distribution. The first section of this paper reports on the effect of fiber length distribution on tensile properties of yams at various tensile strain rates, and the second section presents the . fatigue behavior of 100% cotton yams. Fiber length and its distribution in cotton yams seem to influence the tensile behavior of both sized and unsized yams at all strain rates, but strain rates do not play a significant role in determining the properties of sized yams. Adding size tends to mask the effect of fiber length variation, particularly at higher size loading. The tensile properties of sized cotton yams are also influenced by the size type, such as polyester, carboxymethyl cellulose, and polyvinyl alcohol, at all add-on levels. The fatigue behavior of 100% cotton unsized and sized yam is eval uated using a Sulzer-Ruti Webtester. The mechanism of yam failure due to fatigue/ abrasion for unsized yam is affected by short fiber content. The base tension has the largest overall effect. Unsized yam containing 10% comber noil has an optimum bal ance of short and long fibers, making the yam structure more resistant to fatigue / abrasion. In sized yam, the effect of short fibers is partly masked by the properties and compatibility of size materials with the substrate. Polyester size has poor com patibility with cotton fibers; carboxymethyl cellulose and partially hydrolyzed polyvinyl alcohol tend to produce very highly increased resistance to fatigue and abrasion. Rep resenting fatigue /abrasion data in terms of mean or average lifetimes is questionable due to contradictory evidence. Representing fatigue data in terms of a three-parameter Weibull distribution leads to realistic interpretations.
Assessing Wrinkling Using Image Analysis and Replicate Standards
Authors: Na Youngjoo , Pourdeyhimi Behnam
Published: March 2008

This paper describes the application of digital image processing to the grading of fabric wrinkle recovery. Degrees of fabric wrinkling of AATCC replicate standards are analyzed using a combination of texture and profile analysis techniques. Results in dicate that wrinkling can be reliably measured using gray level and surface statistics, co-occurrence analysis, and power spectral density of image profiles.
A Computer-Aided Grading System for Both Basic Block and Adapted Clothing Patterns
Authors: Liu Z. , Harlock S.C.
Published: March 2008

Parts I and II have described a method of automatic pattern grading for both basic block and adapted patterns. Part III, the last of this series, will introduce the structure of the program and the use of the system. Some examples will be given to demonstrate its feasibility. The AutoGrader system has been implemented using CADDS 4X, which is a CAD software program, but the algorithms do not depend on this particular software, and the concept may be applied to any CAD system with the appropriate functionality.
Effect of Ethyl Xanthogenate on the Absorption of a Cationic Dye on Polyester Fibers: Zeta Potential and Sorption Thermodynamics
Authors: Espinosa-Jiménez M. , Cano-Suárez A.
Published: March 2008

Data are presented for the zeta potential, kinetics, and sorption thermodynamics of CI Brilliant Green on both untreated polyester fibers and polyester pretreated with constant amounts of potassium ethyl xanthogenate at different temperatures. The rising temperature of the system increases dye absorption on untreated polyester, and the rising temperature of absorption increases dye uptake on pretreated polyester. Cationic dye absorption is enhanced by increasing amounts of ethyl xanthogenate taken up by the fibers during pretreatment. The negative zeta potential of pretreated polyester rises when the amount of ethyl xanthogenate in the pretreatment is increased at low concentrations of dye solution. The zeta potential sign changes at high con centrations of cationic dye in the liquid phase. When the amount of ethyl xanthogenate in the pretreatment increases, there is a displacement of this sign inversion toward lesser concentrations. Absorption equilibria, empirical rate constants, activation energy, standard affinity, and enthalpy and entropy of reaction are determined for cationic dye absorption on untreated and pretreated polyester. The results and the molecular structure of the dye and ethyl xanthogenate suggest that the absorption of CI Brilliant Green on the pretreated polyester probably takes place by means of an electrostatic attraction between the dye cation and the negatively charged - S- groups of the ethyl xanthogenate.