bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Some Observations on Colour Fastness to Washing with Particular Reference to Disperse Dyes on Polyester
Authors: Baldwinson T. M.
Published: July 2010

In recent years there has been a trend away from the traditional soap‐based washing tests towards methods based on commercial‐type washing powders. Experience with tests based on washing powders, and the relationship between these tests and the traditional soap‐based tests, are described. It is shown that the degree of staining of adjacent fabrics, particularly nylon, increases as the detergent concentration in the wash liquor is decreased. Post‐stentering and the quality of fabrics used as adjacents in the wash test can have a considerable influence on the results.
Solvent‐assisted Dyeing of Nylon 6.6 and Polyester Fibres
Authors: Derbyshire A. N. , Harvey E.D. , Parr D.
Published: July 2010

The results of laboratory semi‐bulk and bulk trial work on the dyeing of nylon 6.6, with anionic dyes in the presence of n‐butanol, in an aqueous dyebath are described. The method gives improvements in coverage of barre which cannot be achieved in other ways, without detectable adverse effects on the physical properties of the nylon 6.6 or the colour and fastness properties of the dyes. Results of work by a similar, solvent‐assisted dyeing method for polyester fibre are given. Improvements in migration and speed of fixation of dye in the presence of n‐butanol are noted, but these are similar in magnitude to the improvements obtainable with conventional carriers for polyester dyeing at much lower concentrations. The method is likely to be commercially viable only if a substantial proportion of the butanol added to the dyebath can be recovered for re‐use. This should theoretically be possible, but experimental confirmation of the process has not yet been obtained.
The Covalent Reactions of Primary Amino Side‐chains and Disulphide Bonds in Wool Keratin
Authors: Abbott Thomas J. , Asquith Raymond S. , Chan David K. , Otterburn Michael S.
Published: July 2010

Previous work on the reactions of different types of reactive dyes with wool is reassessed and new jindings presented. The decrease in reactivity of basic wool side chains to reaction with 1:fluoro:2:4 dinitrobenzene after wool has been dyed with acidic or reactive dyes is further investigated. New and previous correction factors measuring the extent of this inactivation are compared. Using such corrections, the extent of actual covalent binding of reactive dyes to basic wool side chains is determined. Applying these corrections gives reasonable stoichiometry in the dye‐fibre reaction. The extent of reaction of thiols, basic and hydroxyl groups in wool with five reactive dyes of different classes has been measured, and compared for two dyeing methods (long‐liquor and urea pad‐batch). The differences and similarities in the extent and type of reaction of the dyes with the fibre sites, using the two methods of application, is discussed. The role of disulphide degradation in reactive dyeing is further investigated. The effect of alkaline treatments on the fixation of reactive dyes, and the availability of wool lysine side‐chains for reaction (in the urea pad‐batch dyeing system) is reported upon.
Alternatives to Water in Textile Processing
Authors: Skelly J. K.
Published: July 2010

Attempts have been made to correlate the use of organic solvents as alternatives to water in textile processing with the ‘solubility parameter’ concept. Chlorinated hydrocarbons prove suitable for scouring and some finishing operations since their solubility parameters are ideal for such operations. In dyeing, however, the solubility parameter of polyester fibres, dyes and perchloroethylene are very similar, resulting in poor exhaustion of conventional disperse dyes. New solvent dyeing systems and new dyes, with high partition coefficients in polyester fibres, must be developed for solvent dyeing to become of practical consideration. Other solvents have been examined for solvent assisted dyeing. It has been shown that when benzyl alcohol and 2‐phenoxy ethanol are used in dyebaths at concentrations at which these solvents are not completely in solution, both the rate of dyeing and penetration of dye into the fibre can be markedly increased in comparison to normal aqueous dyeing with polyester, nylon and acrylic fibres.
New Approaches to Washfast Dyes for Wool:
Authors: Guise G. Bruce , Stapleton Ian W.
Published: July 2010

The possibility of using isothiuronium salts as ‘protected’ reactive dyes for wool has been examined. In principle, it should be possible to apply chromophores containing such salt groups as cationic dyes and to ensure levelness while they are still in the unreactive salt form. By raising the pH of the dyebath they could then be hydrolysed to insoluble thiol dyes, which could bind covalently to cystine residues in the wool by a thiol / disulphide interchange reaction. Various model isothiuronium salts have been synthesized and a study made on the effect of S‐ and N‐substituents on the ease of hydrolysis to thiol. The β‐isothioureidopropion‐anilide structure is proposed as a suitable group upon which a series of dyes could be based. Commercial Alcian (ICl) dyes, which contain isothiouronium salt groups, are shown to be unsuitable as ‘protected’ reactive dyes for wool because of their instability in hot solution. Mechanistic reasons are advanced to account for their sensitivity to hydrolysis.
Small and Moderate Colour Differences
Authors: Morley Dorothy I. , Munn Ruth , Billmeyer Fred W.
Published: July 2010

In nineteen regions of colour space groups of about 30 samples, differing by small to moderate amounts from one designated as ‘the standard’ were generated by offset printing. Twenty observers estimated the perceived size of each of these differences twice, using cateogry scaling ‐ the judgements were not based on acceptability. The samples were placed, in turn, adjacent to the standard on a middle gray surround, subtended 4d̀ on the retina, were illuminated with semidiffuse fluorescent light, simulating daylight at about 45d̀ incidence, and viewed along the normal. The visual data were converted from an ordinal to an interval scale. The samples were measured by abridged spectro‐photometry, and CIE coordinates, obtained by integration using the spectral‐power distribution of the illumination source and the 1931 2d̀ standard observer. Colour differences were calculated by eleven formulae and correlated with the visual interval‐scale results. The usual low correlation coefficients were found. The data are analysed colour by colour and significant differences are noted. Collectively, the Adams Chromatic Value (ANL AB 40), Saunderson‐Milner, and CIE 1976 L*a*b* formulae gave better performances.
New Approaches to Washfast Dyes for Wool:
Authors: Guise G. B. , Stapleton I. W.
Published: July 2010

Dyes incorporating β‐isothioureidopropionamide and β‐isnthioureidoethyl salt groups have been synthesized by reaction of the corresponding bromide or iodide with thiourea. Such dyes can be applied in the cationic form to wool and bask‐dyeable fibres, and then, by raising the pH to 9–10, decomposed on the fibre to give fast dyeings. These dyes can also be successfully applied as disperse dyes to appropriate fibres by carrying out the decomposition before dyeing in the presence of dispersing agents. By a combination of these two systems, both components of wool polyester blends can be dyed with the same dye. The high washfastness of isothiouronium dyes on wool is thought to be due to insolubilization within the fibre rather than to mixed disulphide formation with cystine.
Determination of Acid‐dye Standard Affinities for Nylon Fibres from Sorption Isotherms
Authors: GRIEDER K.
Published: July 2010

The dyeing equilibria of acid dyes on nylon 6.6 are studied using a model in which the substrate is divided into solid polymer and an internal solution. A Nernst distribution is assumed for the distribution of dye between these two phases, while a Donnan equilibrium is presupposed for that between the internal and external solutions. It is shown experimentally that the Donnan coefficient of the nylon increases exponentially with the amount of fixed dye provided that the substrate is initially present in the isoelectric state. Based on this finding, the standard affinity of an acid dye for nylon 6.6 can be derived from the sorption isotherm, without the necessity of knowing the acidity and basicity of the carboxyl and amino groups respectively. The effect of introducing an alkyl group on the standard affinity is demonstrated with four anthraquinone dyes.
Spectrophotometric Analysis of Multicomponent Dye Solutions which do not Obey Beer's Law
Authors: WERTHEMANN DIETRICH P.
Published: July 2010

A method for computing the dye concentrations of a multidye solution from measured absorbances is described. This method is very effective for determining concentrations of dyes when the absorption of light does not follow Beer's law. It is based on an iterative procedure, using calibrated extinction functions to vary the extinction coefficients which are used for a least squares calculation. Examples are given for mixtures of basic dyes and acid dyes respectively.
Observation of Aqueous Dye Dispersions at High Temperature I ‐ Construction of a Simple Microscope Pressure Hot Stage
Authors: JONES F. , PATTERSON K.
Published: July 2010

There is at present, considerable interest in the behaviour of aqueous dye dispersions at high dyeing temperatures and in the variable solution properties of such dispersions prepared from metastable and stable dye solids. Earlier methods to observe dyebath conditions include the Microdyeoscope designed by Millson 1. This required a large dyebath, the solution from which passed through a cell situated in the focal plane of a microscope. The fibre or filament to be dyed was held in the cell. Observation was limited to temperatures of less than 100C. A cell formed within the dyebath by two inverted periscopes facing each other at a fixed distance has also been described 2 which allows the rate of dye concentration change to be determined spectrometrically. More recently Biedermann 3 has used a ‘microautoclave’ in which a composite (Teflon/glass) optical cell enclosed in a metal holder and heated indirectly on a Reichert microscope hot‐stage was used for examining crystal growth and habit changes in dye dispersions up to 140C. This autoclave was, however, clumsy to use, the heat transfer to the liquid was poor, and the cell could not easily be scanned. Also the material was not in the normal focal plane of the microscope. In the design described in this paper we have eliminated several of these disadvantages to provide a cell which is more easily scanned and incorporates a combined heating and direct temperature reading control unit.
Increased Dyehouse Profitabilty from Improved Utilization of Services
Authors: SQUIRE D. H.
Published: July 2010

Careful study of the services and machinery in a dyehouse will usually reveal a considerable waste of water and energy. Examples are given to show how by modification of existing machines or by the installation of new equipment, water and energy losses can be reduced to a minimum, thereby lowering the cost of dyeing.
Reactive Dyes and Resin‐treated Wool — Keys to the Attainment of Superwash Standards
Authors: COCKETT KEITH R. F. , LEWIS DAVID M.
Published: July 2010

The importance of control in the application of the water‐soluble polymer, Hercosett 57, to prechlorin‐ated wool tops and garments, is stressed with special reference to its effect on washability and subsequent dyeing operations. Reactive dyes play a vital role in achieving adequate colour fastness to meet machine‐washable specifications and this paper pays special attention to problems of wet fastness encountered with full‐depth dyeings produced with these dyes. In order to overcome these problems, both the dyeing operation and the after‐treatment stage have been closely studied. A novel after‐treatment is proposed as being more effective than the usual dilute ammonia method. Both high‐temperature dyeing and low‐temperature dyeing are discussed, the former method showing advantages in the case of full‐depth dyeings and the latter in the case of pale‐depth dyeings.
Water and Effluent Charges and Water‐consumption Studies on Six Product Groups for the Knitting Industry
Authors: JAECKEL S. M. , KNIGHT J. , PYLE P.
Published: July 2010

Charges for water and effluent are rising and problems of availability of the former and disposal of the latter are growing. Extensive relevant studies by Hatra of water consumption and conservation, in the dyeing of nylon hose, nylon socks, acrylic garments, wool garments, wool hank, and synthetic knitted fabric, completed some years ago, are outlined with emphasis on factors leading to economies.
Continuous Contacting of Porous Materials in Treatment Tanks
Authors: BURLEY R. , HILL R. G.
Published: July 2010

Consideration is given to a typical multi‐stage process in which a continuous porous material passes through a tank section containing reagent. The reagent is sorbed from surrounding interstitial fluid at all the interior solid surfaces as the material passes through the tank. The sorbate concentration reaches an intermediate level at the end of each stage. The upper and lower limits of this concentration are examined and the effect of the multistage process on the approach to true thermodynamic equilibrium is considered. It is shown that one may achieve a given sorbed concentration by a number of different process policies. At the upper limit of a large number of stages, the sorbed concentration level tends to that which would be attained if it were physically possible to continuously replenish interstitial liquor. At the lower limit, the sorbed concentration value tends to that due to the equilibrium between a single un‐replenished volume of the entrained interstitial fluid and the porous material. Achievement of a given treatment level of sorbed species concentration in the minimum time is also considered, and this again shows the advantageous effects of two or more stages in a continuous contacting process.
The Efficiency of Automated Multipurpose Machines for the Dyeing of Nylon Hose
Authors: CHAPMAN N. B. , JAECKEL S. M. , STUBBS P. H.
Published: July 2010

Water is only one aspect of utilization of services: steam consumption, rate of processing, and effects on shade reproducibility are others. Extensive savings in water consumption, cycle time, and chemicals are claimed for automated machines in the dyeing of hose and garments. The efficiency for pantyhose dyeing of three such machines is compared with processing in rotary drums of appropriate capacity. The automated machines studied were a 25‐kg capacity Milnor 3621 DYA Dyeing‐Extracting machine experimentally installed in a dyehouse, a 50‐kg Sancowad machine at the machine makers, and a 100‐kg Dytex Model 54 machine operated in routine production in another dyehouse. Under these different circumstances, all three were more economical in operation than drums or paddles, but not to the extent claimed. Savings in water and dyes increased in the sequence Milnor‐Dytex‐Sancowad, but the Sancowad had some limitations for bagged goods. Savings in time and auxiliaries increased in the reverse sequence, but loading of the Milnor was a more critical operation. Other aspects are discussed.
The Chemistry of Hair‐care Products
Authors: CORBETT JOHN F.
Published: July 2010

The chemical composition and mode of action of products designed for use on human hair are reviewed and contrasted with processes for the dyeing and finishing of wool. The morphological structure of human hair and wool are compared and the restrictions required of hair‐care processes are discussed. The product classes considered include bleaches, hair colorants, permanent waving and straightening, setting and styling aids, shampoos, conditioners, and cream rinses.
Fresh X‐ray Data for Two Forms of Linear trans‐quinacridone, C.I. Pigment Violet 19
Authors: WHITAKER A.
Published: July 2010

Fresh X‐ray data are given for the β‐ and γ‐ forms of linear trans‐quinacridone (C.I. Pigment Violet 19, C.I. 46500). These new data are better resolved than those reported previously. The new pattern of the γ‐form is compared with the previously reported pattern of γ‘‐form, and it is concluded that the latter pattern could be accounted for by better resolution of the former and the reports of the existence of the γ’‐form should be treated with caution.
Brominated Diamino Dihydroxyanthraquinones. Blue Dyes for Synthetic‐polymer Fibres
Authors: PETERS ARNOLD T. , TENNY BRIAN A.
Published: July 2010

The synthesis of all the isomeric mono‐, di‐, tri and tetrabromo derivatives of 1,8‐diamino‐4,5‐dihydroxyanthraquinone and of 1,5‐diamino‐4,8‐dihydroxyanthra‐quinones is described. The effect of the number and orientation of bromine atoms on the dyeing and fastness properties of these dyes on polyester fibres is reported. Synergistic effects pertinent to the dyeing and fastness properties of mixtures of unbrominated and brominated derivatives are also noted.
A Method of Evaluating the Exhaustion of Disperse Dyebaths
Authors: DATYE K. V. , ACHAREKAR J. Y.
Published: July 2010

Exhaustion of dyebaths when dyeing polyester fabric with disperse dyes can be evaluated by comparing two consecutive dyeings in the same bath either by visual assessments or by estimating the ratio of the dye concentrations of the two dyeings. Exhaustion ratings, related to the residual dye concentration in dyebath, are proposed.
Dyeing and Printing Methods for the Coloration of Carpet Yarns and Carpet Piece by Jet‐impregnation Methods
Authors: Dawson T. L. , Roberts B. P.
Published: July 2010

The jet‐printing machines developed to date are outlined, and the equipment available to programme such machines mentioned.

Advantages of jet‐printing systems are listed and disadvantages discussed, including the results of varying such parameters as liquor viscosity, jet pressure and jet size.

The criteria affecting the selection of dyes and auxiliaries are also given.
Worker‐Management Relations ‐ The Scandinavian Outlook
Authors: MORTENSEN PEDER
Published: July 2010

Presented at the Management Forum held by the Manchester Region at the University of Lancaster, on 5 April 1975

An overall picture of Danish industry is presented, with particular reference to the sources of the national income and the way in which it is spent. Trades union organization, in Denmark and abroad, is next discussed, and a detailed account is given of the procedures in Denmark for co‐operation between employees and management. In conclusion new, and somewhat controversial, forms of worker participation are considered.
Vapour Pressures and Heats of Sublimation of Some Disperse Dyes
Authors: NISHIDA K. , ISHIHARA E. , OSAKA T. , KOUKITU M.
Published: July 2010

The vapour pressures, latent heats of sublimation and associated entropy changes of anthraquinone and monoazo disperse dyes have been obtained by the transpiration method. These compounds have vapour pressures of 0.0005‐0.193 mm Hg over the temperature range of 120–215°C. The heats of sublimation are discussed in terms of their molecular structure.
The Effect of Buffer Systems on the Uptake of Acid Dyes by Wool and Nylon
Authors: BURDETT B. C. , COOK C. C. , GUTHRIE J.
Published: July 2010

For the measurement of adsorption of acid dyes by wool and nylon a dyebath pH of 4 can be achieved either by the use of aqueous solutions of acids, e.g. formic acetic or sulphuric acid or by the use of standard buffer solutions, e.g. acetic acid/sodium or ammonium acetate, phenylacetic acid/potassium phenylacetate or potassium hydrogen phthalate. In this work, wool yarn and nylon 6 filament have been dyed from aqueous solutions of C.I. Acid Reds 1 and 41 at a pH value of approximately 4.2 in the presence of either aqueous acetic acid or a selected pH 4 buffer. The effect of each buffer system on the rate of adsorption of each dye by wool and nylon fibres has thus been studied. It was found that, in some cases, the buffer system had a significant effect on the rate and extent of dye uptake. The use of potassium hydrogen phthalate, a primary pH standard, to produce a dyebath pH of 4.2 gave a greatly reduced adsorption of the two dyes by both fibres.
Continuous Dyeing and Polymer Shrink‐resist Processes for Wool
Authors: LEWIS D. M.
Published: July 2010

A number of polymer shrink‐resist treatments for wool in various forms have been proposed; one of the most popular of these being the chlorine‐Hercosett 57 process, applicable to both wool tops and garments. In order to increase the versatility of such processes, polymers have been developed which can be applied together with dyes at the dyeing stage. This paper describes the application of several different water‐soluble polymers to wool piece goods and tops, using pad‐batch methods of application. Fabrics produced by the combined dyeing and finishing techniques are capable of meeting both machine washability and colour fastness criteria required in the Superwash specification. Problems in developing the method for wool tops are discussed, together with indications as to their solution.
Styryl Dyes for Synthetic‐polymer Fibres Part I ‐ Synthesis and Characterization of some 4‐Amino‐β, β‐dicyanostyrenes and Ethyl‐α‐cyano‐4‐aminocinnamates
Authors: PETERS ARNOLD T. , WILD MALCOLM S.
Published: July 2010

The synthesis of a series of disperse dyes based on 4‐amino‐β,β‐dicyanostyrene and ethyl‐α‐cyano‐4‐aminocinnamate is described; various preparative routes to these dyes are discussed. Infra‐red and mass spectra characteristics of the dyes are reported, indicating data relevant to the characterization and identification of these commercially useful dye classes.
Part II ‐ Colour, Dyeing and Fastness Properties of some 4‐Amino‐β, β‐dicyanostyrenes and Ethyl‐α‐cyano‐4‐aminocinnamates
Authors: PETERS ARNOLD T. , WILD MALCOLM S.
Published: July 2010

Comparative data on the cyanovinyl and carboethoxyvinyl groups, and on the nature of the N‐substituents in a range of styryl dyes are reported, with particular respect to substituent effects on colour, dyeing properties and fastness to light and sublimation. Substitution patterns especially advantageous (and otherwise) in these dyes are concluded together with new data presented in respect of the colour of N‐β‐cyanoethyl derivatives in different solvents.
A Fabric Producer's Experience of Transfer Printing*
Authors: COLLINS M.C. , SUMMERSGILL B.
Published: July 2010

This paper outlines the recent history and experience in the transfer print sector, both from a marketing and production point of view. It also attempts to indicate the decisions that have had to be made at various stages and comments on the various factors that have influenced these decisions. It describes some of the problems faced and the solutions found. Attempts are made to give guidance to transfer print paper suppliers as to the kind of improvements that a fabric producer would like to see in the service that they offer to the transfer printing industry.
Flat‐bed Printing of Carpet Squares by Vacuum Press Techniques
Authors: GODDARD R. J.
Published: July 2010

The market for domestic carpet tiles in the UK is currently fairly small, amounting to 2% of the total carpet market, but it is expanding. Printed carpet squares, co‐ordinated with plain colours, are helping to increase design and colour flexibility and to further establish carpet squares as a viable floorcovering for the home.

This paper discusses a flat‐bed vacuum‐transfer process for printing carpet squares. Basic machine parameters are described and the process limitations assessed against the machine's unique advantage of being able to produce print/tile registration. The further prerequisites of base fabric requirements and the various techniques available for paper printing are also examined.
The Place of the Self‐Producer in Transfer Printing*
Authors: HUDSON ORVILLE
Published: July 2010

The experience of a firm of textile printers that installed a transfer‐paper printing unit, for their own benefit and that of their customers, is described. Such an arrangement benefits the printer as well as his customers, particularly in respect of the quality and speed of production. Research aimed at improved methods of transfer printing is facilitated.

Problems associated with the printing of transfer papers are discussed, and developments in the machines used for this purpose are described.
Some Aspects of the Light Fastness of Reactive Azo‐dyes on Cellulose under Wet Conditions
Authors: DATYNER A. , NICHOLLS C. H. , PAILTHORPE M. T.
Published: July 2010

The photochemical behaviour of four reactive‐azo dyes, (two dyes with poor wet light fastness and two dyes with normal wet light fastness) was examined to elucidate the mechanisms by which some reactive azo dyes, applied to cellulose, fade more rapidly when wet.

In one case it was found that the major primary photochemical reaction is photoejection of electrons, which is enhanced in the aqueous environment, while in the second case, a back reaction between hydroxyl radicals and dye molecules is facilitated by the aqueous environment.
The Effects of Fluorescent Substances on the Photofading of Colours
Authors: YAMADA KIMIHO , SHOSENJI HIDETO , GOTOH KIYOTO
Published: July 2010

The addition of fluorescent brightening agents of the pyrazoline‐type accelerates the photofading of triphenylmethane dyes, while the dyes quench the photoreactions of the fluorescent brightening agents. The accelerations were most marked when irradiation was carried out in the maximum fluorescence excitation region of the fluorescent brightening agents. Stern‐Volmer quenching studies and chromatographic analyses of the photoproducts revealed that the accelerated photofading reactions involved triplet sensitizations of the dyes by the fluorescent brightening agents.
Synthesis and Electronic Spectra of Some Disperse Dyes Derived from 9‐Phenylazo‐1‐ketojulolidine
Authors: HALLAS GEOFFREY , NG KWOK LEUNG
Published: July 2010

Several monoazo dyes have been prepared from 1‐ketojulolidine and compared with their julolidine counterparts. The presence of a carbonyl group in the terminal bridging system leads to improved light fastness properties on synthetic‐polymer fibres, but also to an essentially constant hypsochromic shift (70 nm) of the first absorption band. The azojulolidine dyes exhibit a marked negative halochromism. Unlike the parent julolidine dyes, the ketofulolidine disperse dyes are not suitable for transfer printing.
A Simple Method for Determining the Diffusion Coefficient of a Dye from the Time of Half‐dyeing
Authors: MILITKÝ JIŘÍ , RAIS JIŘÍ
Published: July 2010

An equation has been derived for determining the diffusion coefficient of a dye from its time of half‐dyeing. This equation is much simpler than the infinite‐series equations of Wilson and Hill, but gives comparable results, with less calculation.
The Effect of Annelation on the Colour of 1, 4‐Disubstituted Benzoanthraquinone Disperse Dyes
Authors: MATSUOKA MASARU , KISHIMOTO MASAAKI , KITAO TEIJIRO
Published: July 2010

The visible spectra of a series of 1,4‐disubstituted benzoanthraquinone dyes in benzene solution has been measured. The position of the absorption maxima of the dyes has been found to be well correlated with a mean ionization potential of the substituent groups.

An annelation of anthraquinone dyes in the position of 2, 3 or 6, 7produced a small hypsochromic shift, while 5,6‐annelation produced a large bathochromic shift.

The additive properties on the absorption maximum of dibenzoanthraquinone dyes were also observed.
Correlation between Rm and Standard Affinity of Some Anionic Azo Dyes on Cellulose
Authors: FISICHELLA SALVATORE , SCARLATA GIUSEPPE , TORRE MICHELE
Published: July 2010

Results on affinity measurements and paper chromatography of some anionic azo dyes, obtained by diazotization of 4‐aminobenzophenone, 2(4′‐amino‐benzoyl)thiophene, 4′‐aminobenzanilide, 2‐thiophene‐carboxanilide‐4′‐amino, trans‐4‐aminostilbene and trans‐2(4′‐aminostyryl)thiophene and coupling with naphthionic acid, Nevile‐Winther's acid, R acid, Hacid and chromotropic acid, have been reported. A linear relationship between the Rm value of the dyes and their standard affinity of dyeing has been observed for dyes with the same coupling component.
Publication Sponsored by ETAD The Adsorption of Dyes on Activated Sludge
Authors: HITZ H. R. , HUBER W. , REED R. H.
Published: July 2010

Effluents from textile dyeing and printing processes usually contain dissolved or suspended dyes in small quantities. One of the treatments which may be applied to such effluent is passage through a biological treatment plant in which colour removal proceeds via adsorption on activated sludge. An indication was sought as to the likely efficacy of such a plant in dealing with intermittent influxes of dyes at concentrations similar to those to be expected in practice.

A simple test method is described which enables the tendency of a dye to be removed by adsorption on activated sludge to be categorized. Application of the test to six classes of dyes by some of the member firms of ETAD has indicated that the adsorption depends on the class of dye and to structural differences within the classes.
Research Needs of the Coloration Industry
Authors: Leach J. H.
Published: July 2010

The final paper on research and development presented at the Society's 1977 Biennial Symposium ‐ The Efficient Use of Resources in Textile Coloration held at Lancaster University. The Chairman for the session was Mr B.A. Townsend (Courtaulds Ltd).
A New System of Continuous Flash Dyeing
Authors: DUCKWORTH C. , RIDYARD A. J. , WRENNALL L. M.
Published: July 2010

This paper describes work carried out during the development of a new ‘Flash’ continuous‐dyeing system for cellulose‐based fabrics. The new system was aimed primarily at the successful application of vat dyes, which worldwide still account for very substantial yardages and form a high proportion of fabric which is continuously dyed.

Earlier investigations had shown that novel methods held promise, but perhaps not sufficient to displace current techniques. The conventional pigment pad‐hot flue‐chemical pad‐steam sequence has long been preferred for high quality vat dyeing, but changes in recent years have made it clear that alternative systems could find favour. These changes include:

Much shorter runs per colour.

Blends with other fibres, especially with polyester.

Higher operating costs (labour, water, energy, dyes, etc.) which call for a reduction in downtime due to colour changes, and the need for more accurate recipe formulations without recourse to instrumental prediction techniques.

These changes in trading conditions, along with the high capital cost of the preferred conventional equipment, have made economic processing more difficult.

The new process is a simple pad system with an ‘all‐in’ dye bath. Deep dyeings of normal fastness can be readily obtained. Recipe formulations for production can be predetermined in the laboratory. The time for a complete change of colour varies from I minute for pale‐medium dyeings to 5 minutes for deep dyeings. Dye yield is excellent. Space requirements are halved and energy (motive power and steam) demand is cut by two‐thirds.
Management and Technology
Authors: SMITH P. W.
Published: July 2010

In the last hundred years in capitalist societies, the prime motivation for the introduction of new technologies Into any industry has been to reduce unit production costs, and hence to increase profits. The success of any particular piece of technological innovation has usually been directly measured by the wale of profit increase.

Other considerations are now accepted as of comparable Importance ‐ and these new considerations derive mainly from the requirement to take better account of the needs of the workforce.

When new technologies are proposed for use in any Industry, the workforce now loot. to the possible repercussions under three headings:

the likelihood that unit cost reduction may be largely effected by a reduction in the numbers of operatives required Luddism. etc.,

the requirement that individual work loads shall be reduced, and that any alteration shall make a positive contribution to working conditions.

that any financial gain from such Introduction shall be. in part enjoyed by the workforce.

Such considerations are general for all Industries, but their implications are examined in the context of the textile finishing Industry, which has a historical retard neither worse nor better than the average for most industries

For the most part, present‐day management recognizes the legitimate nature of many of the workforce's expectations from technological innovation Additionally, the law now demands in many ways that these ambitions be recognized.

The various individual aspects are each analysed in same detail ‐ management problems in meeting them identified; and the possibilities of previous imbalances in favour of capital and against labour being over‐compensatea are considered.

The Pitfalls of over‐compensation'are discussed, and the possible nature of an eventual better balance assessed.

The pressure is on management to cater for reasonable adjustments. The pressure is on the workforce to realist that the discovery during the last decade of their power, does not result in a management backlash It must be made clear to both that neither section can function without the sympathetic understanding of the role of the other.
2‐Pyrazoline Dyes for Wool and Nylon
Authors: EVANS NEIL A. , WATERS PETER J.
Published: July 2010

A range of yellow fluorescent 2‐pyrazoline acid dyes has been synthesized. Their spectral and dyeing properties (on wool and nylon) depend both on the nature of the substitution pattern of the dye and on the nature of the fibre substrate. Exhaustion and fastness to washing, which are better on nylon than on wool, are improved by substituents attached to the 2‐pyrazoline ring. Fastness to light is independent of the fibre and is increased by substituents on the 4‐ and 5‐ positions of the 2‐pyrazoline ring. The fastness properties of the pyrazoline dyes were compared with those of C.I. Acid Yellow 7.
The Efficient use of Resources in Textile Coloration
Authors: Dürig G. , Hausmann J. P. , O'Hare B. J.
Published: July 2010

The various factors which are stimulating the present interest in recycling of dyehouse effluents are discussed. These include economic considerations, such as the rising cost of water supply and effluent treatment, shortage of water created by increased demand, and tighter legal control.

Dyehouse effluents contain a wide range of impurities which may be organic or inorganic, soluble, colloidal or suspended. These impurities will limit the suitability of the effluent for immediate recycling to varying degrees depending on their nature and concentration and the class of fibre and goods to be subsequently processed. Attention is drawn to the effect of some of the most commonly occurring of these impurities on subsequent processing operations.

Reference is made to the physical obstacles to recycling associated with existing machines, drainage systems and factory layout.
Textile Waste Waters: Treatment and Environmental Effects
Authors: Gardiner Deirdre K. , Borne B. J.
Published: July 2010

The paper considers the use of water and chemicals in the textile industry and the volume, nature and composition of process effluents, the effect they have on the environment and the limitations they pose on the reuse of water.

An outline is given of the methods available for treatment of waste waters from the industry, on site or at a Water Authority's works and the effects that chemical constituents of the effluents have on the treatment processes and on disposal of water and sludge.

The assessment and significance of biodegradability and the extent of present‐day knowledge on the biodegradability of the main classes of chemicals used in textile processing are discussed.

The paper concludes with a section dealing with the removal of colour from waste waters.
Photoreactive Dyes: The Potential of Azido‐substituted Dyes as Latent Reactive Dyes for Wool
Authors: Millligan Brian , Holt Leo A.
Published: July 2010

Dyes containing azido substituents have been examined as latent reactive dyes for wool and nylon. Three different substituents, viz. azidophenyl, azidosulphonyl and diazidotriazinyl, were used. It was found that dyes containing azidophenyl groups could be applied under conditions where little reaction with the fibre occurred. These dyes could then be induced to react covalently with the fibre either by irradiation with light or by ironing at 200d̀C. However, the binding of the dye to the fibre occurs in rather low yield (30–40%) and, in some cases, is accompanied by a marked colour change. Dyes containing azidosulphonyl or diazidotriazinyl substituents react with wool and nylon during application, and they are therefore unsuitable as latent reactive dyes.
Science and Society
Authors: FINNISTON SIR MONTY
Published: July 2010

The six previous speakers who have been privileged to give the Edwards Memorial Lecture have been distinguished in particular areas of either science or technology and have confined themselves to speaking on the subjects of their experience and expertise. This lecture will be distinctive, if less distinguished, since the subject is one on which there is no evidence of achievement or expertise by the lecturer and the subject does not fall within any formal academic discipline. The defence rests with the poet Walt Whitman who wrote “There is that indescribable freshness and unconsciousness about an ignorant person that humbles and mocks the power of the noblest expressive genius”.
Azides Part I ‐ Reactive Dyes Containing the Azido Group for Synthetic‐polymer Fibres*
Authors: AYYANGAR N.R. , BADAMI N.V. , TILAK B.D.
Published: July 2010

Dyes containing sulphonylazido, carbonylazido, arylazido and azidoacetamido groups have been synthesized. These dyes react chemically with synthetic‐polymer fibres, such as polyester, nylon and cellulose acetate. Their dyeing and fastness properties are discussed.
The Printing of Polyester‐Cellulosic Fabrics
Authors: JENKINSON KEVIN
Published: July 2010

Printing styles, rather than printing methods, are discussed. These are essentially the same for any dye–substrate combination and the usual parameters (type of cloth, design, meterage required, etc.) govern which method of printing – roller or screen – is used.
The Essential Role of pH Control in the Dyeing of Carnet Fibers
Authors: DAWSON T. L. , ROBERTS B. P.
Published: July 2010

In the dyeing of nylon, wool, acrylic and even polyester fibres for carpets, control of the dyebath pH is essential for the attainment of level reproducible results. It is not uncommon, however, to find in practice that the means of controlling the pH is inadequate in terms of the particular chemicals chosen or in the concentrations employed. This arises because of an imprecise knowledge of the function of buffering or other pH‐controlling agents, and the practice of a false economy in their use. This paper outlines these principles and indicates simple, economic and reliable means of pH control. The systems described relate to optimized dyeing methods, particularly those where dyeing behaviour is critically affected by dyebath pH.
Continuous Monitoring of Dyehouse Liquors
Authors: HARKER R. P. , MEDLEY J. A. , WEBSTER E. H.
Published: July 2010

The paper discusses the concept of continuous extraction of liquids from a group of dyeing or similar machines, its transport through narrow‐bore tubing to a central point to facilitate measurement, and the presentation of appropriate parameters governing processing conditions. This approach facilitates the installation of fairly sophisticated instrumentation to measure the parameters (e.g. pH, conductivity or absorbance) from each processing machine in turn; the data are scanned and recorded and the user can read and/or automatically correct the condition in any selected machine: pH‐monitoring applications in three different dyeing and bleaching works are described. Reference is made to its applicability to on‐line continuous processing and extension to automatic control, and its potentialities in relation to the control of dyebath exhaustion are indicated.
The Colour of Textiles when Wet The Relationship between Wet and Dry Reflectance Values for Common Textile Materials
Authors: SMITH CHRISTINE
Published: July 2010

The colour of a dyed textile material immersed in water can be related to its colour in the dry state. The results of wet and dry colour measurements on a variety of textile materials are presented. An empirical equation is developed, relating wet and dry reflectance values for the common textile fibres. The equation varies with fibre type, but it is independent of colour. The equation also varies with fibre decitex and pigment content, but it is thought that this may be due to the design of the apparatus. Some work has also been done on some dyes which exhibit abnormal wet–to–dry colour changes. The paper does not prove wet assessment to be practicable, but it goes some way towards that objective, and reports sighting experiments which may benefit other workers in the field.
Fixation on Wool of Dyes Containing a Maleimide Group
Authors: FINNEMORE ELIZABETH
Published: July 2010

The chemistry of dyes containing a maleimide group is discussed. The mechanism of dye fixation on wool in depths greater than 1. 5% has been investigated. In samples which were dyed at pH 3, 80°C, little covalent reaction took place. Extraction with solvents, used to determine the fixation ratio, caused changes in the dye, as well as some further reaction, giving rise to apparently high fixation ratios. Dyeings on nylon fibre confirmed that covalent reaction of dye with amino groups is possible, especially between pH4 and 5. The best results in terms of fixation and yield were obtained in a dyeing procedure where the pHwas raised slowly during the dyeing.
The Effects of Terminal Groups in 4–Aminoazobenzene and Disperse Dyes Related Thereto
Authors: HALLAS GEOFFREY
Published: July 2010

The changes brought about by structural variations on the properties of disperse dyes derived from 4–aminoazobenzene and related compounds are described and discussed, with particular reference to modifications in terminal substituents. Relationships between electronic effects, steric effects, tautomeric equilibria and colour, and between fastness properties and dye structure are examined.
Relationship between Integral Diffusion Coefficient and Rate Constant in Dyeing Polyethylene terephthalate) Fibres with Disperse Dyes
Authors: MILITKÝ JIŘÍ
Published: July 2010

Practical methods of computing the diffusion coefficient D and rate constant Kfrom the Cegarra–Puente equation for dyeing poly (ethylene terephthalate) fibre with disperse dyes are given. A simple approximate relationship has been derived enabling the corresponding D to be found when K is known. A general technique is also described for approximation of complicated diffusion equations by means of simpler relationships.
Realistic Investment in the Dyeing Industry
Authors: Park James
Published: July 2010

Presented to the Lancaster Management Forum on the 6–7 April 1979, to the West Riding Region on 11 October 1979, to the West of England and South Wales Region at a half–day Symposium on 2 November 1979, to the Northern Ireland Region on 13 November 1979 and to the Huddersfield Region on 4 December 1979.

Many companies are approaching a crossroad since much of their plant has reached the end of its useful life and may be technically obsolete and inefficient. The decision to invest in the equipping of a dyehouse is an extremely complex one and there are many factors both technical and commercial which must be considered. Investment can be undertaken at a number of levels from the addition of a few machines to an existing operation, to a total green–field site. Adequate market research must be carried out before a committment is made and there are a number of important management decisions. Various processing routes should be compared.

The effect of investment programmes on cost and sales prices are discussed and case histories are used to illustrate the various factors involved in the execution of such a programme.
Evidence for the Participation of Singlet Oxygen in the Vat–dye Photosensitized Degradation of Cellulose
Authors: Garston Brian
Published: July 2010

A study has been made of the vat–dye photosensitized degradation of cellulose. Whilst the part played by the dyes in direct hydrogen abstraction from a cellulose substrate cannot be overlooked, it is apparent that the role played by singlet oxygen is important. The ability of a dye to produce singlet oxygen has been studied by measuring the amount of tetraphenylcyclopentadienone the dye can photo–oxidize.

It would appear that the singlet oxygen is initially formed in its high energy g state by energy transfer from the triplet state of the dye to ground state molecular oxygen.

Luminescence spectroscopy has been employed in order to gain information about the excited state energies of the dye molecules, and an electron spin resonance study of the dyes in rigid media has been carried out in order to obtain information about the triplet state.
Comparison of Formulae for the Determination of Fluorescent and Non–fluorescent Whiteness
Authors: Levene R. , Knoll A. , Magrizo S.
Published: July 2010

The prediction capabilities of simple whiteness formulae based on photometer reflectance readings (A, G, B) as compared to linear formulae with adjustable parameters based on chromaticity values (x, y, Y) have been investigated. For each formula, the instrumentally determined whiteness was compared with visually estimated whiteness using the plates of the Ciba–Geigy Plastic White (CGPW) Scale as a standard. This was carried out for a set of 48 fluorescent cotton cloth samples previously studied, as well as for a new set of 86 non–fluorescent cotton cloth samples. As expected, the AGB formulae were inferior to those based on chromaticity values; however, the Taube formula performed quite well for fluorescent samples. On the set of non–fluorescent samples, a formula having green hue preference was required; the Berger formula was found to be the most successful among the simple AGB formulae.
Influence of Substrate Type on Level Dyeing of Acrylic Yarn Packages
Authors: Mason J. S. , Park J. , Thompson T. M. , Shore J.
Published: July 2010

In an earlier paper [1], the influence of flow rate, ramp (constant rate of temperature rise) and package density on the rates of dyeing of two basic dyes on Ex/an, and on the levelness obtained in the resulting dyeings, was investigated, and a relationship was derived to link these factors quantitatively. This work has now been extended to cover the behaviour of various basic dyes on Exlan and other acrylic fibres, under conditions expected to give borderline levelness. It has been shown that the shape of the rate–of–dyeing curve depends on the type of acrylic fibre and, to a lesser extent, on the cationic retarder used, but not on dye type within the group of CV2. 5–3. 5 basic dyes examined. The response of dyeing rate and degree of unlevelness to deliberate variations of ramp, as demonstrated in the previous work on Exlan, is now confirmed on Cashmilon. Evidence of a different type of random unlevelness, not related directly to dyeing rate, was also obtained from dyeings on the various fibres at a slow ramp.
Information Retrieval in Colour Chemistry and Dyeing
Authors: Veal Douglas C.
Published: July 2010

A colleague of mine has referred To a wonderful paper by Bird. It was published this year, Or last so I hear, In some apparently obscure journal of which none of the librarians I have consulted in pursuit of it ever seem to have heard. (with apologies to the well–known author Anon)