bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Comfort Dimensions of Actual and Ideal Insulative Clothing for Older Women
Authors: Sontag M. Suzanne
Published: January 2008

Three dimensions of human comfort with respect to clothing are proposed: physical, psychological, and social comfort. A pilot study of 60 women, aged 60 to 80, was conducted to develop and test a semantic differential measure of these three human comfort dimensions with respect to actual and ideal insulative clothing for indoor wear. An evaluative factor, a measure of overall garment evaluation, also emerged from analysis of the semantic differential. Validity and reliability of the measure were strong for physical and psychological comfort and the evaluative factor but not for social comfort. Thirty-one of the 60 women chose to wear one of three types of insulative clothing for indoor wear on a one day trial basis under reduced household temperatures. Under these environmental conditions physical comfort was correlated substantially higher with overall evaluation than was psychological comfort. Data indicate that (1) garment types presented and worn in this study did not approximate participants' concept of ideal insulative clothing; (2) one's concept of ideal insulative clothing may affect selection of garment type ; (3) perception of comfort and overall evaluation of the garment changed from before to after wearing the garment ; and (4)garment types differentially approached the expectation for ideal insulative clothing on the separate comfort dimensions. Implications for theory and research are discussed.
Fashion Change and Demographics: A Model
Authors: Behling Dorothy
Published: January 2008

Researchers in clothing and textiles as well as those in other disciplines have long sought to understand the process of fashion change and identify underlying themes. The theoretical model of fashion change which is presented here is based on changes in women's dress and explains fashion change between 1920 and the present. Incorporated in the model are two well known vertical theories of fashion diffusion. Other components of the model are median age of the population, which determines who society's role models will be; general health of the economy; and governmental restrictions or regulations. The model is also predictive insofar as demographers' predictions are accurate for the remainder of the century.
Degradation of Swimwear Fabrics: Effects of Light, Sea Water and Chlorine
Authors: Epps Helen H.
Published: January 2008

Three knitted nylon/spandex swimwear fabrics dyed with acid dyes were subjected to xenon light, sea water, and chlorinated pool water. The effects of these treatments on color changes and tensile properties were compared. The three fabrics used in the study represented both light and dark colors. The greatest color change and the greatest loss in tensile strength was exhibited by the lightest colored fabric, while the darkest fabric exhibited the best colorfastness and retention of strength. Sea water and chlorinated pool water treatments were found to accelerate xenon light degradation of the fabrics.
Effect of Achromatic Value of Stimulus on Responses to Women's Clothing Styles
Authors: Winakor Geitel , Navarro Rebecca
Published: January 2008

When illustrations of clothed figures are used as stimuli, what effect, if any, does the achromatic value of the garment (i.e., shade of gray) have on observer responses? Does the value in which the garment is shown interact with the silhouette and detail of the garment to influence preference? Drawings of women's garment styles were tinted in various combinations of three shades of gray. Responses of female university students to polar adjectives were examined by using analysis of variance. Style of garment most strongly affected responses to all word pairs, but liking as well as response to several descriptive word pairs were affected by value and value placement. The nonsystematic nature of the effects of value on responses could present problems in interpreting responses to pictorial stimuli used in experiments. Similarly, consumer preferences for fashions shown in black and white illustrations may be unpredictably influenced by value and value combinations used.
Light and Heavy Catalog Shoppers of Clothing
Authors: Smallwood Victoria , Wiener Joshua
Published: January 2008

Despite the growth of catalog shopping, there is little known about the identity of catalog shoppers. This study attempted to predict and contrast light and heavy catalog shoppers of clothing by fashion opinion leadership, clothing interest, importance of selected clothing attributes, and various demographic variables. The sample consisted of 93 female catalog shoppers from a southwestern state. The researchers hypothesized that catalog usage was a function offashion opinion leadership. Findings confirmed the hypotheses at the. 01 level. Results of discriminant analysis showed that the variables of income, fashion advisor, fiber content and garment care importance were significant at the 05 level in predicting light and heavy catalog usage. Results implied that research findings presently found in the literature regarding fashion opinion leadership and the retail shopper were applicable to the catalog shopper.
Justifying Research: Making a Persuasive Case
Authors: Friend Shirley E. , Dickerson Kitty G. , Schrank Holly L.
Published: January 2008

This paper addresses the need for clothing researchers to develop better justifications for research being proposed, provides guidelines to assist researchers in writing a strong statement ofjustification, and provides two examples of studies with different justification statements. The paper is an outgrowth of discussions of the NCR-65 Committee, Socioeconomic Analysis of Clothing Consumption, of which the authors are members.
A Comparison of Quality and Retail Price of Domestically Produced and Imported Blazers
Authors: Norum Pamela S. , Clark Lee Ann
Published: January 2008

There has been increasing interest in the relationships among country of origin and the price and quality of apparel items. The purpose of this study was to investigate price and quality differences from one category of domestic and imported apparel-women's blazers. The perfect information frontier framework provided a theoretical context for this research. Empirically, t-tests were used to determine whether statistically significant differences exist between the mean price and quality of domestic and imported jackets, while Spearman rank correlations were used in describing the relationship between retail price and quality for these samples. Regression analysis was used to investigatefurther the effect of additional variables on the relationship between price and quality. The results indicated no significant difference between imported and domestic jackets with respect to price and quality and a weak significant difference between the price-quality correlations. Jacket quality, fiber content, store type, and store location were found to influence significantly price.

These results imply that country-of-origin labeling may not be an accurate signal of quality or "best value "for consumers to use when shopping for women'sjackets. Additionally, the results suggest that neither retailers nor manufacturers may be on strong grounds in arguing that country of origin makes a difference in the retail prices consumers pay or in the "value" that consumers obtain. Further research could improve upon the limitations of this study by examining additional categories of apparel in a variety of markets during other times of the year. A comparison of quality scores with and without subjective criteria would also be of interest.
Effects of Interfacing Type on Shear And Drape Behavior of Apparel Fabrics
Authors: Collier Billie J. , Paulins Virginia A. , Collier John R.
Published: January 2008

Shear stiffness values for sample fabrics representing a range of weights and yarn types were determined on the Kawabata Tensile and Shear Tester and correlated with drape values measured on a specially designed drape tester. Shear behavior was also determined after application of fusible and nonfusible woven and nonwoven interfacings to the sample fabrics. Interfacing type signif cantly affected the shear stiffness of the composites. The nonwoven interfacings, because of their high shearing resistance, contributed to composite shear stiffness in an additive fashion. The nonwoven character was more important than the presence offusible resins in determining composite behavior. For woven interfacings, however, fusible resins significantly affected shear behavior by increasing the stiffness of the interfacing as well as of the face fabric. For both fusible and nonfusible woven interfacings, large differences in the shear stiffness of the componentfabrics also influenced the composite shear behavior.
The Changing Figure Ideal in Fashion Illustration
Authors: Danielson Donna R.
Published: January 2008

The purpose of this study was to examine the changing fashion figure ideal as represented in fashion illustration during the twentieth century. The ideal body forms and other appearance traits associated with fashionable women have varied notably during this time span. These changes have been documented and analyzed extensively in current literature. The related ideals presented for instruction in fashion illustration textbooks during the century graphically depict the evolution. Ten basic fashion figure diagrams appearing in textbooks published between 1918 and 1985 were analyzed and compared. Several line drawings derived from typical fashion editorial and advertising art supplemented these. The findings support the hypothesis that the changing fashion figure ideal in fashion illustration is influenced by and is a reflection of two major factors: (a) the "spirit of the times" and (b) the characteristics of each era's fashionable silhouette and apparel.
A Creative Process in the Art of Costume Design
Authors: Rothenberg Albert , Sobel Robert S.
Published: January 2008

An empirical study of the psychology of creativity carried out over a period of more than 20 years has identified a specific creative operation called "homospatial process. " This process has been shown to have an important function in various types of creative activities in the arts and sciences. As defined, the homospatial process consists ofactively conceiving two or more discrete entities occupying the same mentally represented space or spatial location, a conception leading to the articulation of new identities.

A technical method for facilitating homospatial thinking in costume design is described. This method involves the use of slide transparencies superimposed on a projection screen from two separate light sources and reproduces the effect of discrete entities occupying the same space. Specific examples demonstrate the feasibiltiy of using such a technique to facilitate the creative process of costume design.
Store and Brand Type Influences on the Perception of Apparel Quality: A Congruity Theory Approach
Authors: Morganosky Michelle A.
Published: January 2008

The purpose of this study was to use perceptual data to test hypotheses based on congruity theory. Changes in the perception of apparel quality when two brand types were associated with four store types were measured. A national probability sample was used for the study. Six hundred and four individuals (who met the criterion ofbeing the person who did most of the household shopping for apparel) were interviewed by telephone. Results indicated that the perception of quality for name brand apparel was significantly lowered by association with national chain, off-price, and discount stores. There was not a corresponding improvement in the quality perception of national chain, off-price, and discount stores when associated with name brand apparel. Implications for manufacturers and retailers are discussed.
Effect of Private, Designer, and National Brand Names on Shoppers' Perception of Apparel Quality and Price
Authors: Forsythe Sandra M.
Published: January 2008

The present study examined (a)the effect of product characteristics and brand name on shoppers' evaluations of apparel quality and price and (b) the effect of consumer decision-making style on evaluations. One hundred sixty four mall shoppers evaluated the quality and price of one of three experimental shirts which were identical exceptfor brand labels. Brand labels had been manipulated so that each shirt contained a private, national, or designer label. Brand name did influence shoppers perceptions of price but not of quality. Consumers' decision-making style was found to influence perception of price.
Consumers of Customized Sewing Services
Authors: Johnson Joyce Starr , Littrell Mary Ann , Reilly Rae
Published: January 2008

The purpose of this research was to (a) identify incidence of use of customized sewing services, (b) develop profiles of users and non-users of sewing services, and (c) compare groups of users of specific sewing services. Thirty-seven percent of a stratified random sample of 641 Iowa households reported in a telephone interview that they had used customized sewing services during the past five years. Responses from a mail survey to 436 of the households were used to develop consumer profiles. Users differed from non-users on interest in self-enhancement through clothing, use of a variety of customized services, personal sewing abilities, education, and income. Five groups of users, identified based on type and frequency of use ofspecific customized sewing services, included Comprehensive Users, Custom Garment and Alteration Users, Mending and Alteration Users, Alteration Users, and Mending Users. Groups differed on interest in dress, use of a range of customized services, personal sewing skills, source of sewing professional, distance traveled for sewing services, and predicted future use of services. Recommendations were made to providers of sewing services.
Mass Fashion as Threat in Context and Concept
Authors: Hamilton Jean A.
Published: January 2008

During the latter part of the 18th century in Scotland, especially in rural areas, there was a dramatic shift from relatively stable and unchanging dress forms to fashion in dress, the ongoing substitution of existing forms with new ones. From an analysis of primary sources it is clear that these changes were often perceived as threatening. This paper addresses the conceptual relevance offashion as threat, it explores fashion as an ideal symbolic medium for venting perceptions of threat posed by other domains in the social/cultural system, and it addresses the symbolic power of dress and fashion in conserving the perception of social order and stability at the same time that it facilitates cultural change.
A State Apparel Industry Needs Assessment: Special Concerns for Rural Economies
Authors: Dickerson Kitty G. , Dalecki Michael , Meyer Margie
Published: January 2008

This study examined the importance of apparel manufacturing to rural areas in Missouri experiencing economic difficulties as a result of the farm crisis. Investigators anticipated that apparel manufacturing often represented the only source or one of a few sources of off-farm employment in these communitites. Seventy percent of Missouri's population of apparel manufacturers responded to a survey designed to assess apparel manufacturers' perceived needs in making their firms more viable and competitive. This assessment was made in light of an examination of the importance of apparel manufacturing companies to the local and state economies, particularly regarding employment in rural areas. Results indicated that 64.5 % of the respondents' firms were in small towns, and 69.4% said their towns had been hurt by the farm crisis. Manufacturers identified primary needs in improving competitiveness as marketing and increased productivity. Manufacturers' needs were found to vary by locale (rural or urban) as well as by size of the firm. Discussion considers possible ways in which universities may assist apparel manufacturers to remain a competitive and viable part of rural economies.
Searching for Visual Inconsistencies: A Method for Analyzing Unity in Apparel Design
Authors: Workman Jane E.
Published: January 2008

Unity is a relationship in which all parts belong and work together to achieve consistency. The purpose of this paper was to demonstrate how Jones' method of searching for visual inconsistencies could be used as a method for analyzing unity in uniform design. A review of popular articles dealing with uniform design resulted in several examples of implicit references to Jones' method. Visual inconsistencies in the following categories were detected: between garment parts within a design, between garment and accessories, between ensemble and person wearing it, and between the apparel-body construct and the situation in which it was placed. It was concluded that visual inconsistencies provided the impetus for many changes in uniform design and were the underlying reasons for many uniform design decisions. The process of searching for visual inconsistencies was made explicit and examples given of how this process was used by design students as a method to evaluate design unity.
Data Specification Needed for Apparel Production Using Computers
Authors: DeLong Marilyn , Ashdown Susan , Butterfield Leslie , Turnbladh Karin Frost
Published: January 2008

New developments using artificial intelligence and the computer can effect changes in the production of apparel and ultimate consumer satisfaction with apparel products. Much data specification is needed before apparel can be manufactured that quickly and efficiently takes into account the individual body of the consumer. Trial and error fitting methods will no longer be economically feasible with such customized production. Garment fit and ease preferences are explored in this research to determine feasibility of an individually fitted, computer generated pant. A customized pant was made for each of 38 female subjects using a computer-aided-design program that took into account the following factors: body size, configuration, alignment, proportions, and preferred ease amounts of the wearer. A level of prediction for ease was achieved with these pants and 27 of 28 of the final subjects rated their pant as satisfactory or very satisfactory following a seven hour wear test.
Clothing Importance and Self-Perception of Female Adolescents with and without Scoliosis
Authors: Liskey-Fitzwater Natalie , Moore Carolyn L. , Gurel Lois M.
Published: January 2008

Sample groups of 35 female adolescents with scoliosis and 35 peers without scoliosis were studied. The purposes of this research were (1) to investigate differences in selected clothing importance factors and self-perception domains between the two groups, and (2) to investigate the relationship between clothing importance and setf-perception within and between groups. Clothing variables were operationally defined by scores on an instrument used to measure the following clothing factors: conformity in clothing, modesty in clothing, psychological awareness of clothing, clothing to enhance self-concept, and interest in clothing. The Self-Perception Profile for Adolescents measured social acceptance, athletic competence, romantic appeal, physical attractiveness, and global self-worth. Data were analyzed using t-tests, Pearson Product Moment correlations, and Fisher's zr transformation. There was a difference between the two groups on only one clothing measure; the scoliosis sample had significantly lower scores on clothing to enhance self concept than did their peers. Significant differences were found between groups on all setf-perception variables with the scoliosis sample having the lower scores. Within groups 13 significant relationships were found between clothing importance and setf-perception for the scoliosis group and only two for the comparison group.
Company Demographics as an Influence on Adoption of Quick Response by North Carolina Apparel Manufacturers
Authors: Kincade Doris H. , Cassill Nancy L.
Published: January 2008

Quick Response has proven financial benefits, but less than one half of U.S. apparel manufacturers have implemented it. This study investigated apparel manufacturers' demographics as related to adoption of Quick Response. Two hundred and three North Carolina apparel manufacturers were sent a mailed questionnaire, resulting in a 48% (N = 66) adjusted return rate.

Factor analysis reduced the 17 Quick Response statements to 5 factors. Multivariate analysis of variance and one-way analysis of variance were used to determine the relationship of apparel manufacturers' demographics to the adoption of Quick Response. Significant differences existed in Quick Response adoption for size levels and merchandise classifications. Improved knowledge of Quick Response adoption has implications for apparel manufacturers and retailers when developing strategic plans. Textile and clothing academicians may use the results in developing research and educational programs.
The Declining Domestic Leather Industry- Implications and Opportunities
Authors: Eberspacher Jinger J.
Published: January 2008

Recent changes in demographics of the leather industry have implications for clothing, textiles and merchandising. This paper provides the current status of the domestic industry and importinglexporting data. This paper proposes a prototype plan that combines less costly assembly labor with other phases of domestic production.
Benefit Segments of the Female Apparel Market: Psychographics, Shopping Orientations, and Demographics
Authors: Shim Soyeon , Bickle Marianne C.
Published: January 2008

The purposes of the study were (1) to segment the female apparel market based on "descriptive clothing benefits sought" by female consumers, and (2) to develop a profile of each segment concerning psychographics, shopping orientations, patronage behavior and demographics. Nationwide data (n = 610) were collected via a mail questionnaire sent to 1,000 females. Using cluster analysis on benefits sought factors, three groups were identified and labeled as (1) Symbolic/Instrumental Users of Clothing (51%); (2) Practical/Conservative Users of Clothing (35%); and (3) Apathetic Users of Clothing (14%). MANOVA and Chi-square statistics revealed significant differences among the three benefits segments on 10 psychographic factors, 3 shopping orientation factors, 1 patronage behavior variable, and 7 demographic factors. A profile of these groups was developed; marketing and theoretical implications were provided.
Evaluation of Application Methods and Flammability Characteristics for Topical Flame Retardant Treatments on Fiber Art Installations
Authors: Hooper Carolyn Jane , Jupena Urban
Published: January 2008

Fiber art installations placed in specific areas of non-residential buildings are required to be flame resistant. When needed, topical flame-retardant treatments are often used by artists to provide flame resistance. This study was a preliminary investigation of two application methods for a topical flame-retardant treatment on a fiberwork and an evaluation of flammability characteristics relative to add-on. Six commercial and two nonproprietary flame retardants were applied to a handwoven fabric consisting of identical linen warp and three separate sections of weft fiber content: cotton, rayon, and wool. Two methods of application, spraying and dipping, were investigated ANOVA was used to test for differences in add-on as a function of fabric, application, and product. Flame resistance was assessed by the National Fire Protection Association's Field Test: Match Flame Test. Data indicated that, in general, dipping results in greater add-on than spraying; however, this varies by flame retardant and fiber content of the installation. All samples except four passed the Field Test. It was not possible to determine if failure to pass was due to difficulty in obtaining satisfactory flame resistance with certain fiber combinations, to application methods, or to limitations of the Field Test. Although not evaluated in this study, there was visible evidence of undesirable characteristics that may result from topical flame-retardant treatments: color change, shrinkage, visible residue, and stiffness. Further research is needed to help artists and fire safety experts gain a better understanding of the complexities of topical flame-retardant treatments on fiber art installations.
A Visual Sensory Evaluation of the Results of Two Pattern Grading Methods
Authors: Bye Elizabeth K. , DeLong Marilyn R.
Published: January 2008

Current apparel production methods grounded in a tradition of master-apprentice training and intuition are being challenged by the introduction of Artificial Intelligence. Much of the expert knowledge needed to develop computer systems for the apparel industry is related to visual decisions made to create a garment. In this study, a sensory evaluation methodology was used to determine if visual perceptual differences existed between results of pattern grading methods using traditional and proportional techniques. An expert panel of eleven members evaluated visual effect of images graded across an entire size range. Three sets of images representing apparel on the body were selected to emphasize (1) horizontal proportion, (2) vertical proportion, and (3) proportion of details. Responses of panel members indicated neither traditional nor proportional grading maintained the visual effect referenced in the sample size across the entire size range. The goal of pattern grading needs to be redefined to account for the desired visual effect in a variety of size and body variations.
Effects of State of Fatness Perception on Weight Conscious Women's Clothing Practices
Authors: Kwon Yoon-Hee , Parham Ellen S.
Published: January 2008

This study began with three objectives. The first was to identify clothing functions for two different affective states: (a) when one feels fat or feels one has gained weight (Fat State), and (b) when one feels more slender or feels one has lost weight (Slender State). The second objective was to investigate the differing motivations behind, and clothing functions given, the two states. The third objective was to investigate the relationships between clothing functions given each state and subjects' feelings about their size and weight (Weight Factor from Mahoney and Finch's body cathexis instrument). The principal axis factor analysis of the data collected from 172 working females and 172 college females resulted in five factors that contribute to clothing functions: fashion, camouflage, assurance, individuality, and comfort. Significant differences were found between clothing functions for the Fat and Slender States, indicating that the motivations concerning clothing functions for the two states are basically different. When subjects perceived themselves to be fat, scores for camouflage, comfort, individuality, and assurance were negatively correlated with Weight Factors. However, when subjects felt slender, the only significant association was a low negative correlation of camouflage scores with Weight Factors.
Educational Requirements for Management Level Positions in Major Retail Organizations
Authors: Donnellan John
Published: January 2008

The purpose of this study was to determine the qualifications and academic preparation necessary to succeed in management careers in retailing, and also to determine if these requirements differ according to type of retailing format. The results of the study are based on a survey of the largest U.S. department store, specialty store, and discount store retailers (n = 285). An analysis of response frequencies indicated that managerial skills are most important to retailers. Few differences existed among responding stores when data were analyzed according to the type of retailing format or the type of merchandise sold using the Pearson Chi-square (p < .05). The results are important for college programs that prepare undergraduates for retailing careers and are useful for assessing the relevance of course offerings to current industry expectations.
Female Collegiate Basketball Players' Perceptions About Their Bodies, Garment Fit and Uniform Design Preferences
Authors: Feather Betty L. , Ford Sheila , Herr David G.
Published: January 2008

Designing basketball uniforms for female athletes is a challenge for soft goods manufacturers. Data were collected from 503 female collegiate basketball players concerning body cathexis, body form, garment fit satisfaction, uniform design preferences and demographic characteristics. Of the three areas of the body (upper, lower and total), players indicated they were most dissatisfied with parts of the lower body. Being in uniform did improve their perception of their bodies. Satisfaction with garment fit parallels satisfactionldissatisfaction with the body; the lower body area creates the greatest garment fit problems. The type of body form had a significant effect on both uniform fit satisfaction and uniform body cathexis. Fit satisfaction is the highest with the ectomorph body form. The differences were inverse: as the body increased in size, the lower the degree of satisfaction with garment fit and the body. Uniform preferences for the jersey were a deep V-neckline, sleeveless, and hip length with straight hemline and side vents. For the shorts, a baggy style with side v-vents at the hem, and a 1 1/2 or 2 inch wide, elastic drawstring waistband were selected. Implications for soft goods manufacturers are discussed.
Women 55 Years and Older: Part II. Overall Satisfaction and Dissatisfaction with the Fit of Ready-to-Wear
Authors: Goldsberry Ellen , Shim Soyeon , Reich Naomi
Published: January 2008

Using the data collected through interview questions, Part II of this nationwide study on women 55 years and older examined factors which might be related to older women's overall satisfaction and dissatisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear. In general, 70% (n = 4,086) of the respondents indicated dissatisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear, while 31% (n = 1,826) indicated satisfaction. By using chi-square analyses, these two groups were then compared on demographics, clothing buying practices, and self-reported clothing problem locations. The majority of variables significantly differentiated the satisfied and the dissatisfied group. More dissatisfied consumers tended: (a) to be younger (e.g., 55-to-65 age category); (b) to be in the higher income category; (c) to be Caucasian; (d) to buy clothes mostly at discount/off-price stores, at department stores and through mail-order/catalog as compared to at specialty store/boutique or by custom-made/home sewing; (e) to live in the west coast area; and (f) to buy commercial patterns but to be dissatisfied with the fit of commercial patterns as well. The actual figure type purchased (e.g., Misses, Misses Petite) in ready-to-wear also was a significant factor affecting the older women's satisfaction level. Those who identified problems with each of the 15 body or garment locations had a greater dissatisfaction level with the fit of ready-to-wear than those who did not have problems. By using logistic regression analyses, some selected body measurements were found to be significant predictors of older women's satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear.
Assessment of Textiles and Clothing Academic Programs in the United States
Authors: Laughlin Joan , Kean Rita C.
Published: January 2008

This project sought to establish baseline data about textiles and clothing in higher education settings. All academic units with four-year programs were included in the population. Characteristics of the unit, curricula and faculty were obtained through a 1991-92 mail survey (78% response-see Volume 13 #3 for a description of the sample and research methods). There are 51 (36%) Category I (doctoral level), 56 (39%) Category IIA (comprehensive) and 24 (17%) Category IIB (general baccalaureate) institutions offering programs in textiles and clothing. The numbers of faculty yet to complete the terminal degree, the proportion of faculty who completed the highest degree held within the last decade, the number of untenured doctoral degree holders, the observation that almost half (48%) of all faculty had been appointed within the last decade and that close to four out of five had been promoted to the current rank within the last decade, and that approximately half of the faculty have yet to earn tenure, established an issue of concern. ITAA should make an ongoing commitment to professional development of the membership. A productivity index was calculated for each textiles and clothing program based on numbers of journal articles, theses and dissertations each year per FTE faculty. In descending order, the most productive were: (1) Tennessee, (2) Cornell, (3) Ohio State, (4) Oregon State, (5) Nebraska, (6) Missouri, (7) Illinois, (8) Oklahoma State, (9) Iowa State, and (10) Louisiana State.
Cerebral Blood Flow and Dementia in Parkinson's Disease
Authors: Kawabata Keita , Tachibana Hisao , Sugita Minoru
Published: January 2008

Regional cerebral blood flow (CBF) was examined in 27 patients with Parkinson's disease using single-photon emission computed tomography and N-isopropyl- p-[123I]iodoamphetamine as a tracer. Their CBF pattern was compared with that of seven patients with Alzheimer's disease and nine age-matched neurologically normal controls. Tracer activity was determined in seven bilateral cerebellar, cortical, and subcortical regions and was expressed as the ratio of activity in each region to the mean tracer activity in the cerebellar region.

Nineteen patients with nondemented Parkinson's disease showed significantly decreased tracer activity ratio in the frontal and temporal cortices, basal ganglia, and thalamus compared with that in controls. The eight demented Parkinson's disease patients showed significantly decreased tracer activity ratio in the temporal and parietal cortices compared with the patients without dementia, and demonstrated CBF pattern similar to that of patients with Alzheimer's disease. These findings suggest that in patients with Parkinson's disease, the mechanism of CBF reduction of the frontal cortical region differs from that in the temporoparietal cortical region and support the concept that Parkinson's disease and Alzheimer's disease may overlap in some patients. ( J Geriatr Psychiatry Neurol 1991;4:194-203).
Sleep Problems and Institutionalization of the Elderly
Authors: Pollak Charles P. , Perlick Deborah
Published: January 2008

This study examined the role of sleep problems in the decisions of families to institutionalize elderly relatives. Previous work on institutionalization of the elderly has given little attention to the contribution of nocturnal, sleep-related problems. Seventy-three primary caregivers of elders recently admitted to a nursing home or psychiatric hospital were asked to identify the problems the elder was having during the night and day and rate the degree to which these influenced their decision to institutionalize the elder. Seventy percent of the caregivers in each sample cited nocturnal problems in their decision to institutionalize, often because their own sleep was disrupted. The most frequent disruptive nocturnal events were micturition, pain, and complaints of sleeplessness. Sleep problems of the elderly contribute heavily to the decision to institutionalize an elder and thus to the social and economic cost of institutional care. They appear to do this largely by interfering with the sleep of caregivers. The nature, prevalence, and treatability of the sleeping problems of both elders and their caregivers need further study. ( J Geriatr Psychiatry Neurol 1991;4:204-210).
Screening a Skilled Nursing Home Population for Depression
Authors: Baker F.M. , Miller Catherine L.
Published: January 2008

The population resident in the skilled nursing home of a Veterans Administration Hospital on the 27th of June 1988 was screened for the presence of depression. Only 74% of the patients (59 of 80) were able to complete most of the screening battery: the Folstein Mini-Mental State Examination, the 15-item Geriatric Depression Scale, and the Hamilton Depression Scale. Thirty-four percent of the sample (20 of 59) met the criteria for a DSM-III-R psychiatric diagnosis; 22% (13 patients) had a major depressive disorder, and 12% (seven patients) had an adjustment disorder with depressed mood. The 15-item version of the Geriatric Depression Scale was more effective than the Hamilton Depression Scale as a screening instrument in this population of frail elderly veterans who had multiple and severe medical problems (end-stage cardiac disease, progressive myasthenia gravis, terminal pulmonary disease, and multiple cerebrovascular accidents) that limited verbal and nonverbal communication, as well as physical endurance. ( J Geriatr Psychiatry Neurol 1991;4:218-221).
Progressive Nonfluent Aphasia With Dementia: A Case Report
Authors: Feher Edward P. , Doody Rachelle S. , Whitehead Jean , Pirozzolo Francis J.
Published: January 2008

We report a patient with progressive nonfluent aphasia and mild dementia. On 9-month follow-up evaluation, there was significant deterioration in both language and cognition. Unlike in Alzheimer's disease, the aphasia was of the Broca's type. In contrast with primary progressive aphasia, a dementia was present and the cognitive and language decline showed a rather rapid course. ( J Geriatr Psychiatry Neurol 1991;4:236-240).
Two Worlds: As We Might See Ourselves
Authors: Ilk J.M.
Published: January 2008

Over the years, as a secondary school teacher and school counsellor, I have heard students talk about teachers, and teachers talk about students. Often the central theme revolves around discipline. What I've begun to notice is that I'm not hearing, anything new anymore. Most of what teachers are saying in the staff room and at meetings is simply a repeat of what other teachers are saying in other staff rooms and at other meetings. Likewise whith what I hear from the students. In fact my observation of teacher and student behaviour have proved one thing to me: exactly the same drama is being played out by different characters in different places. In one of my more cynical moments, I decided to put these observations down on paper, fully intending never to show them to anyone because to many they would appear somewhat cynical. It was, after all intended as a stress-reducing exercise for me. However, in a moment of weakness, I showed them to a colleague who asked if he could use the material with the next teacher induction program. You see, he told me that the document made him think. He could see himself in it. In fact, he added, 'to varying degrees, this really has relevance for all of us working in schools'. I wonder if you agree.
Choose Your Own
Authors: Bennett Horace , Grunter Helen , Reed Sylvia
Published: January 2008

If you select your own appraiser, do you feel better about being appraised? Before going down this route, consider the evidence — Ed.
Pre-school- a Suitable Case for Study?
Authors: Lichtman Marilyn
Published: January 2008

An English trainee NNEB comments: 'a completely different environment to ours. Note the hygiene requirements and the teachers' and childrens' d-i-y cleaning - no cleaners and dinner ladies here. Cultural distinctions noted in the teaching of respect for elders, the creation of visually appealing meals and thosedelicious sculpted animals.' Alexander Ryall.
Whole-class teaching, democratic skills and improving performance
Authors: Jones Sue
Published: January 2008

A growing number of reports indicate the low standing of Britain in the international league for educational standards. This article considers traditional barriers to effective teaching and management and how to overcome them.
NPQH and Catholic heads: needing something more?
Authors: Johnson Helen
Published: January 2008

Are the development needs of aspiring headteachers all the same? Do those in the Catholic sector have additional development needs?
In the Firing Line?
Authors: Draper Janet , McMichael Paquita
Published: January 2008

The authors examine how Scottish deputy heads feel about the prospect of headship and find an apparently much more positive view than in England and Wales.
Using Appreciative Inquiry to overcome post-OFSTED syndrome
Authors: Whalley Caroline
Published: January 2008

Within her LEA, the author works with senior management teams and governing bodies to help schools continue to move forward. She describes here a consultancy project in a primary school which had recently had an OFSTED inspection.
Re-thinking the school year
Authors: Davies Brent , Kerry Trevor
Published: January 2008

If it ain't broke don't fix it, goes the modern proverb. But how healthy is the engine that drives school organisation - the school calendar? Are three terms, designed for a society that lived in a pre-technological rural economy, still relevant to 21st century students? An increasing number of educators and education managers think not.
The British Chiefs of Staff
Authors: Cooper Frank
Published: January 2008

Thais paper looks at successive attempts to coordinate defence policy, in Britain-from the setting up of the Chiefs of Staff Committee in 1923 onwards. It shows hiow innovations such as the creation of a Miniister of Defence in 1946, and the creation of a Chief of Defence Staff were less inmportant than personalities and traditions in the Services. The 1964 unification of the Ministry of Defence was, in turn, criticized as coordination-especiallv oni polic'l anid resource decisions-was difficult. Further authority was granted the Chlief of the Defence Staff in 1982, but in 1984 the Secretary of State proposed further cenitralization.
The Impact of Freedom of Information Legislation on Senior Civil Servants
Authors: Ward John
Published: January 2008

This paper examines the position of senior civil servants before and after a freedomin of information act. It considers how the chanige would affect them not onlyl as policy advisers but as part of the process of making public official information.
Is Local Authority Economic Intervention
Authors: Barnes I. , Campbell J. , Preston J.
Published: January 2008

In the past decade, local authorities have become increasingly involved in the development of policies to alleviate the effects of economic decline. In this paper, the authors' primary objective is to determine, the extent to which these policies are being evaluated. They also consider the ways in which evaluation is caried out and the problems associated with this.

Most local authorities claim to be involved in some form of evaluation. However, the evidence tends to suggest that little more than monitoring takes place. It seems that the desire to be seen to be doing something to ameliorate the impact of the recession is perhaps more important than the actual effectiveness of local authority economic intervention.
Bureaucratic Politics and Reaganomics
Authors: Hogan Joseph John
Published: January 2008

This article looks at the changed role of the OMB in American budget making. It argues for the re-establishment of a powerful but comparatively non partisan office.
Praise and Damnation: Mental Health User Groups and the Construction of Organisational Legitimacy
Authors: Harrison Stephen , Barnes Marian , Mort Maggie
Published: January 2008

‘User involvement’ is a contemporary policy initiative in the UK National Health Service which requires the managers of the service to pay greater attention to the wishes of individual patients/clients and their carers, but also to the representatives of users and the general public. This paper focuses on the responses of health and social care managers to user groups: on the the employment of groups outside the policy/managerial hierarchy as contributors to and legitimators of decisions. Such an approach to legitimation poses the risk that such outside groups will express views or engage in activities which are unacceptable to the hierarchy. This paper provides illustrative evidence about how such tensions may be dealt with in order to maintain tactical policy/managerial independence and to buttress representative democracy against the spread of participatory democracy.
How Departments Change: Windows of Opportunity and Critical Junctures in Three Departments
Authors: Richards David , Smith Martin J.
Published: January 2008

Despite the difficulty of large-scale organisational change, it is clear that the last 18 years of Conservative government has seen some major changes in both the structures and cultures of government department. This paper examines why and how departments change when they do. Although ministers frequently have explicit intentions to change the cultures of departments, the often fail. The paper suggests that major, cultural reorientations of departments occur at moments when external and internal pressure combine to create ‘windows of opportunity’. Such circumstances enable ministers, with strategic intentions, to impose a new direction on the department. Therefore, their departure from office does not signal the restoration of the old departmental line. This process we call a critical juncture.
‘We are learning to accommodate mess’: Four propositions about management change in local governance
Authors: Lowndes Vivien
Published: January 2008

The article argues that, despite the coherence implied by many analyses, there is no one ‘new management’ nor one process of management change within local governance. ‘New management’ is made up of different, and potentially contradictory, streams of ideas and practices. These elements are combined by different organisations into relatively stable and distinct ‘management recipes’. While external triggers to management change are important, the susceptibility of individual authorities to change, and the direction of that change, is related to internal power relations and to local sensibilities and circumstances. Management change is a non-linear process, involving continuities between old and new approaches, movements forward and backward, and change at different levels. Change is not produced simply through introducing new language and structures; it involves a reworking of what is considered ‘appropriate’ behaviour. The article shows how new management approaches are restructuring constraints and opportunities for the exercise of local democracy and citizenship, and argues for political innovation to accompany management change in local governance.
New Labour, New Whitehall?
Authors: Theakston Kevin
Published: January 2008

This paper reviews the Labour Party's reaction to developments in the civil service in the 1980s and 1990s under the Conservative governments of Margaret Thatcher and John Major, and discusses Labour's own plans for Whitehall and the experience of the first five to six months of the new Blair government. It focuses on relations between Labour ministers and the mandarins (including problems of the ‘transition’), the party's plans for freedom of information and better accountability, and Labour thinking on agencies, ‘charterism’, market-testing and contracting-out. The paper concludes that Labour cannot afford to halt the ‘management revolution’.
Clinical Audit in the NHS internal market: from peer review to external monitoring
Authors: Exworthy Mark
Published: January 2008

Relations between managers and professionals in the public sector have often centred on the control of work performance. Work performance strategies and techniques have been transformed by recent public sector policies involving managerialisation and quasi-markets. In particular, the clinical audit programme in the National Health Service has traditionally been the preserve of professionals, mainly doctors but managers and purchasers have become more involved recently. Based on an empirical study, this paper explores the ways in which Health Authorities were approaching their responsibilities, the consequences of such strategies for purchasers and providers, and the implications for professional-managerial relations. The paper concludes that purchasers have not made substantial progress in assessing work performance because of professional resistance and the non-threatening environment fostered by some purchasers.