bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Finite Element Analysis of the Composite Fiber, Alpha Keratin
Authors: Curiskis J.I. , Feughelman M.
Published: March 2008

The individual mechanical properties of each of the phases, microfibrils, and matrix in α-keratin fibers were analyzed in terms of a two-phase composite of microfibrils and matrix. The authors applied finite element techniques appropriate for composite micromechanics to the data available on the mechanical properties of various α- keratins with varying moisture contents. Despite some simplifying assumptions the result of the analysis was in general agreement with our present understanding of keratin structure. The results indicated the following: Absorption of water by the keratin structure has a pronounced weakening effect confined mainly to the matrix. Differences existing between different keratins were in the main due to variation of matrix properties produced by the presence of high glycine-tyrosine and high sulphur proteins, both of which increase the mechanical stiffness of the matrix. Data obtained for porcupine quill show that whereas the microfibrils can be considered as isotropic at all moisture contents of the keratin structure, the matrix must become highly anisotropic at saturated moisture contents.
Behavior of Loose Fibrous Beds During Centrifuging
Authors: Hearne E.R. , Nossar M.S.
Published: March 2008

A new physical model is used to explain the mechanism of moisture retention in centrifuged textile fibers and is tested experimentally. The model enables computer predictions to be made of the regain of centrifuged beds in terms of the centrifuging conditions and the physical properties of the fluid and the fibers. The model treats the retained surface moisture as large agglomerates of fluid which occupy stable sites at points of contact between the individual fibers in a compressible bed. The computer solutions adequately predict the effects of the process variables as observed by other workers and explain some of their apparently conflicting results. The proposed theory has been tested successfully using both non-hygroscopic (polyester) and hygroscopic (wool) fibers. This treatment advances the aim of making centrifuging a fully pre dictable chemical engineering unit operation.
Flame-Retardant, Petrol, Oil, Water, and Acid Repellent Wool
Authors: Benisek L. , Edmondson G.K.
Published: March 2008

Scouring of wool in alkaline conditions in the presence of a detergent not sub stantive to wool is essential to achieve adequate oil, petrol. water, and acid repellency prior to treatment with fluorocarbons. The effectiveness of this repellent treatment depends not only on the chemical composition and concentration of the fluorocarbon, but also on the chemical Composition and physical parameters of the fabric substrate. At the same concentration of the fluorocarbon evaluated, aramid fibers produced lower repellency than wool, probably because of the more oleophilic and hydrophilic nature of the former. A decrease in the density of wool fabric appears to result in lower petrol repellency. A one-bath exhaustion treatment involving the Zirpro flame retardants and a suitable fluorocarbon imparts adequate flame retardance, oil, petrol, and water repellency to wool, including protection against dangerous chemicals and a simulated petrol bomb test, fast to at least 25 charged dry cleanings. Other flammable liquids evaluated in the simulated bomb test, such as diesel, motor oil, and their mixtures with petrol, were less severe than petrol on Zirpro and fluorocarbon treated wool, presumably because they have a higher surface tension than petrol.
Analysis of Size Droppings and Their Correlation with Warp Breakages
Authors: Vidyarthi S.P. , Hari P.K. , Aggarwal V.K.
Published: March 2008

Droppings of sizing under the split rods of slasher and loom were analyzed for quantity and fiber content. The effects of moisture content, gum, softener, and add- on on the droppings from cotton and polyester/polynosic warp yarns were investi gated. Correlations of various parameters with tensile properties of sized yarn and warp breakages were obtained.
Solubility Parameters for Dyeing Water Swollen, Solvent Exchanged Cotton with Anionic Dyes from Mixed Solvents
Authors: Chavan R.B. , Venkata Rao J. , Ahmad H.
Published: March 2008

An attempt was made to calculate theoretically the solubility parameters (δ) of three anionic dyes from Van Krevelen's molar attraction constants. The solubilities of the dyes in dimethylformamide (DMF) and dimethylformamide-trichloroethylene (DMF-TCE) solvent mixtures were related to the δ values. An attempt was also made to explain the solvent dyeing of water swollen, solvent exchanged cotton with the anionic dyes from DMF-TCE solvent mixtures using the solubility parameter concept. For this purpose, the solubility parameters of the dyes, cotton, and DMF-TCE solvent mixtures were divided into two components, the parameter due to dispersion forces (δd) and the parameter due to association forces (δA). The total picture on the dyeing behavior of cotton from the mixtures using the solubility parameter concept revealed that the dye adsorption was mainly governed by dispersion forces. This was supported by studying the effect of temperature on dye uptake. The absence of temperature effect on dye uptake indicated that the dyeing was mainly governed by dispersion forces.
Computer Simulation of the Mechanical Properties of Nonwoven Fabrics
Authors: Britton Peter N. , Sampson Arthur J. , Elliott C.F. , Graben H.W. , Gettys W.E.
Published: March 2008

We are developing a computer simulation method of predicting the mechanical properties of nonwoven fabrics based on a fundamental microscopic description of the system. The program starts with the known mechanical properties of a given fiber laid out in a web of a particular initial geometry that is held together by some specified means. The evolution of the fabric system as it undergoes a selected distortion is then computed from first principles without recourse to any fabric data. This general method is illustrated with a randomly generated fabric model.
Dry Heat Transfer Characteristics of Underwear Fabrics
Authors: Holcombe B.V. , Hoschke B.N.
Published: March 2008

The relationship between the thickness and thermal resistance of textile fabrics is examined with particular reference to underwear structures, and the influence of domestic washing on this relationship is demonstrated. The thermal resistance of these low density fabric constructions is determined primarily by fabric thickness, and other parameters such as fiber type and construction have a minor but significant influence.
Surface Analyses of Carbon Fibers Produced from Polyacrylonitrile Fibers at Low Carbonization Temperatures
Authors: Cagliostro D.E.
Published: March 2008

A process for producing carbon fibers from polyacrylonitrile at low carbonization temperatures was studied. The bulk and surface properties of fibers obtained after reaction with benzoic acid, air, and carbonizing in nitrogen or a dilute acetylene atmosphere are discussed. All fiber products had different surface and internal com positions. Samples produced at temperatures up to 950°C and carbonized in nitrogen contained substantial quantities of nitrogen and oxygen at the surface. During car bonization, the surface nitrogen converted into two new forms, possibly nitrile and an azo or a new carbon-nitrogen bond. Samples carbonized in acetylene contained a carbon-rich surface stable to oxidation.
Effect of Single and Double Carding on Comber Noil Removal and Yarn Properties
Authors: Simpson Jack
Published: March 2008

A cotton was double carded at twice the speed as it was single carded, processed into sliver laps, and combed with identical settings. The double carded laps were also combed at two other settings.

The increase in carding speed for double carding improved the fiber parallelization, which reduced the comber noil removal and resulted in a more uniform yarn with less spinning end breakage. The amount of flat strips removed with double was not much greater than that removed with single carding. Since double carding is a good simulation of tandem carding, the study demonstrates the advantages of using tandem carding and faster carding rates for combed ring yarns.
Identification and Processing of Honeydew-Contaminated Cottons
Authors: Perkins Henry H.
Published: March 2008

The extreme stickiness of some 1977 Acala SJ California cottons was caused by localized areas of high sugar contamination tentatively identified as honeydew se cretions from whiteflies. Processing of these cottons under normal conditions was virtually impossible because of the stickiness. Tandem carding alleviated the problem at carding, but stickiness at roving still caused frequent disruptions in production because of roll lapping and end breaks. Application of a hydrocarbon plus surfactant additive to the cotton in the opening line eliminated the sticking problem in all phases of yam manufacturing.
Reagent Residues of DMEU on Cotton Fabric as a Function of Pad-Bath pH and Storage Period of the Treated Fabric
Authors: Beck Keith R. , Pasad Dilip M.
Published: March 2008

The effect of pad-bath pH and storage of padded fabric on the stability of DMEU was investigated. In addition to the expected demethylolation products, MMEU and EU, other oligomeric/polymeric materials were generated. Since the latter were not quantifiable by liquid chromatography, they were measured by nitrogen analysis. Some of the oligomeric residues were water soluble and were extracted along with the DMEU, MMEU, and EU, while others were water insoluble and remained on the fabric. When padded from a bath of pH 6-10, DMEU was stable on the fabric for about two days. As pH was decreased from 6 to 3, formation of water-soluble oligomers and water-insoluble polymers increased significantly. At pH 10, even after 15 days, no oligomer/polymer was observed as the total residue was accounted for by the DMEU, MMEU, and EU. Differences between DMEU and DMDHEU under similar pH and storage conditions are discussed.
A Comparison of Different Open-End Machines Fed with Slivers from Different Cottons and Cards
Authors: Simpson Jack , Louis Gain L.
Published: March 2008

Rotor trash accumulation, end breakage, and yarn strength were compared for three different open-end machines when fed with slivers from different cottons and different cards. One of the open-end machines was an early model with no trash cleaner, another was a four-rotor machine with an early model trash cleaner, and the third was a late model open-end machine with a trash cleaner. Poorly prepared sliver not only had a greater amount of trash but also bigger particle sizes. While this condition had the greatest adverse effect on the early model open-end machine, it also had an adverse effect on the late model machine. Therefore, regardless of the open,end machines a mill has, good sliver preparation. especially in carding, is rec ommended.
Modifying Wear Life of All-Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Raheel Mastura
Published: March 2008

The modifying effects of chemical pretreatments on durable press finished cotton broadcloth were investigated. Wear performance and appearance characteristics of caustic soda mercerized, liquid ammonia treated, and caustic soda in conjunction with liquid ammonia treated durable press fabrics were evaluated for abrasion resis tance, stress-strain behavior, wrinkle recovery, dimensional stability, and whiteness retention. Liquid ammonia pretreatment for durable press finish improved the flex abrasion resistance of cotton broadcloth in the dry condition as compared to caustic soda pretreatment and no pretreatment. In the wet condition, however, liquid am monia in conjunction with caustic soda pretreated fabric produced higher flex abra sion resistance, especially in the filling direction. In repeated laundering, all three pretreatments had similar effects on abrasion and stress-strain characteristics of cotton broadcloth in the warp direction, but in the filling direction, liquid ammonia in conjunction with caustic soda gave superior strength retention—a behavior similar to flex abrasion resistance in the wet condition. In addition, liquid ammonia in conjunction with caustic soda pretreatment significantly improved wrinkle recovery over 400 cycles of laundering as compared to no pretreatment, caustic soda pretreat ment, and liquid ammonia pretreatment.
An Automated Computation of Diffusion Equation Solutions
Authors: Etters J.N. , Urbanik A.
Published: March 2008

The range of applicability and the level of accuracy of the Wilson, Carman-Haul, and Crank equations and Shibusawa's approximations are revealed through detailed numerical computations. Also discussed is a calculator program which completely automates the computations involved in describing finite and infinite bath diffusion in a cylinder, resulting in a general accuracy to 4-5 significant figures in Mt/M α or (Dt/r2)1/2,
Magnaweave Process—From Fundamentals to Applications
Authors: Florentine Robert A.
Published: March 2008

Magnaweave is a process for generating multidimensional reinforcement skeletons for high performance composite shapes. The "loom" is, in essence, a movable creel, carrying individual fiber supplies for each element around and past each other in a regular fashion. The result is a braided shape, whose fibers can be oriented over a broad range to produce composites with maximum reinforcement efficiency. The composites so formed have no weak planes, as is common in other weaving reinforcements. Since delamination is impossible, the opportunity to substitute light weight composite materials for metals is extremely broad. Because it is a textile process, it may have a place in the textile industry as well.
Changes in Concentration in the U.S. Textile Industry
Authors: Dardis R. , Lee Yen-Ching
Published: March 2008

This paper examines changes in concentration in the U.S. textile industry in recent years and projects future changes using Markov analysis. The top 75 firms, based on assets, are classified according to five size categories, and the total movements of firms between size categories from 1970-1979 are used to generate a transition prob ability matrix. Projections for future years are obtained using the size distribution of firms in 1979 and various powers of the transition probability matrix. While the analysis is confined to the top 75 firms in the textile industry, such firms account for approximately 53% to 60% of the industry assets in the base period. It is likely that changes and, in particular, increases in concentration would be reflected in data for the top 75 firms.

The results indicate that concentration is expected to decrease in the U.S. textile industry over the next 20 years, a continuation of a trend from 1970 to 1979. The equilibrium distribution is reached after 150 years, and since the values for the year 2000 and equilibrium are close, the decrease in concentration is projected to occur at a decreasing rate.
Modifying Wear Life of All-Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Raheel Mastura
Published: March 2008

The modifying effects of caustic soda and liquid ammonia as independent pre treatments as well as a two-step double pretreatment to durable press (DP) finish in cotton broadcloth were investigated. Scanning electron microscopy was used as a technique to study the effects of abrasion on chemically treated cotton broadcloth under various conditions of laboratory abrasion. As a result of Stoll flex abrasion in the dry condition, the chemically treated fabrics exhibited less damage compared to the control fabric; however, in general, numerous spiral cracks and fiber breaks with jagged ends and negligible fibrillation were observed. Stoll flex abrasion in the wet condition produced extensive fiber mashing, bruising, and fibrillation in the control fabric, but the chemically treated fabrics maintained more or less smooth fiber ap pearance, Some peeling of the surface layers, limited fibrillation, thinning of the fibers, and long spiral fiber breaks which were almost parallel to the fiber axis were observed. DP treated fabrics in both dry and wet conditions of abrasion exhibited reduced fibrillation and the broken fiber ends had a blunt appearance.

Abrasion due to repeated laundering, on the other hand, produced fewer cotton fiber breaks but extensive peeling of the surface layers and exposure of the fibrillar structure in the form of sheets rather than fibrillar bundles. Durable press finish seemed to be the overriding factor in the reduced fiber and fabric damage observed, compared to the nonresin treated fabrics.
Predicting Wool Base of Greasy Wool by Near Infrared Reflectance Spectroscopy
Authors: Connell J.P.
Published: March 2008

Near infrared reflectance spectroscopy using a computerized spectrometer was in vestigated as a method for measuring the wool base of greasy wool samples from two geographical regions, as an alternative to the costly and time consuming wet chemical method currently used. A reflectance spectrum in the overtone and combination regions of molecular vibration was measured and related to the samples' chemical composition using a multiple linear regression equation. One region's results were encouraging, but results from the other region were not, so the method is not considered a viable alternative.
Influence of an Organic Solvent and a Cationic Surfactant on Sulphite Treatments for Preventing Shrinkage of Wool Fabrics
Authors: Erra P. , Garcia Dominguez J. , Juliá R. , Infante R.
Published: March 2008

Knitted wool fabrics were treated with sodium sulphite in an isopropanol/water medium in the presence or absence of a cationic surfactant to promote shrink resistance in wool fibers. The organic solvent and the cationic surfactant allow the SO 3= anions to react with specific cystine residues, promoting as well some changes in the physico- chemical properties of the wool, which prevent shrinkage.
Influence on Wool Testing of Fragments Associated with Wool
Authors: Marler J.W. , Lunney H.W.M.
Published: March 2008

Fragments associated with wool can influence wool testing procedures. The influence of fragments on the Wool-VM Separator and the Fibre Fineness Distribution Analyser are reported. Removal of these fragments depends on cleaning medium and action, either aqueous wash or solvent treatment.
Limitations of Cold Sodium Sulfite Titration Methods for Free Formaldehyde in Textiles
Authors: Andrews B.A. Kottes , Reinhardt Robert M. , Harris James A.
Published: March 2008

One of the more important analytical methods for formaldehyde in a finished textile is the cold sodium sulfite analysis for free or unbound formaldehyde. Because this formaldehyde assay can represent the equilibrium formaldehyde in a finish or reagent and therefore that formaldehyde available for consumer exposure, values obtained should be free of bias. Interferences and limitations of cold sodium sulfite analyses for formaldehyde are detailed and techniques to surmount the limitations are presented.
Architectural PTFE-Coated Glass Fabrics—Their Structure and Limitations
Authors: Ansell M.P. , Hill C.A.S. , Allgood C.
Published: March 2008

PTFE-coated glass fabrics, used as membranes for advanced architectural tension structures, offer advantages over conventional low cost coated fabrics in terms of their chemical stability, mechanical properties, and expected service life. These ma terials have a high shear stiffness, however, and the brittle behavior of glass fibers necessitates careful handling.

The structure and performance of several commercial PTFE-coated fabric systems were investigated by scanning electron microscopy, mechanical testing, and weathering in artificial and natural environments. Acoustic emission analysis demonstrated that these flexible coated fabrics respond to stress in a predictable manner similar to rigid composite materials. The susceptibility of these materials to bending and fatigue loads was confirmed in flexure tests.

Sintered PTFE coatings contain pinholes and regions of surface rupture around glass sphere filler particles. Exposure of coated fabrics to hot moist environments and to the natural environment, when loaded uniaxially outdoors, results in further surface damage. PTFE coatings are likely to incur progressive surface damage during envi ronmental exposure in architectural membranes, leading to possible damage to the underlying glass fabric.
Electron Diffraction Study of Regenerated Cellulose Fibers
Authors: Chaudhuri N.K. , Aravindanath S. , Betrabet S.M.
Published: March 2008

Electron diffraction study of regenerated celluloses like viscose, cuprammonium. and polynosic rayons revealed the presence of cellulose I as an extraneous lattice in addition to the basic cellulose II lattice, hitherto shown by x-ray diffraction studies. This paper also investigates the possible causes for the highly unstable nature of the cellulose II lattice in the electron beam.
Wool Modification by Dialdehyde Starch Treatment
Authors: Marzona M. , Di Modica G.
Published: March 2008

Merino wool was treated in variable pH, temperature, and bath concentration conditions with dialdehyde starch. The fastness to acid dyes, solubility in urea bisulfite, alkalies, and acids, as well as mechanical properties and aminoacid composition were determined. The results show that the treatment increases the resistance towards chemical agents, while the dyeing and mechanical properties are unchanged or slightly reduced. The reaction sites seem to be lysine, histidine, and tyrosine on the basis of amino acid analysis.
Mechanisms of Raw Wool Scouring—The Role of the Protein Contaminant Layer
Authors: Anderson C.A.
Published: March 2008

The mechanisms of grease removal from raw wool by various scouring solutions were studied. The protein contaminant layer (PCL) played a key role and the "classical" mechanism of rolling up of the grease from the fiber was not significant in most scouring solutions. In surfactant solutions, there were four stages in the removal mechanism: (a) an initial swelling of the proteinaceous contaminants; (b) formation of grease globules within, or on, the swollen PCL; (c) removal of the swollen PCL with attached globules; and (d) breaking up of the swollen PCL/grease complex into spherical or irregularly shaped particles in the solution.

The mechanism was not affected by desuinting the wool; however, adding small quantities of builders to the surfactant solutions affected the swelling of the PCL, the temperature of globule formation, and the ease of removal of the PCL/grease complex. In concentrated builder solutions, such as those used in the Lo-Flo process, swelling of the PCL was suppressed and the grease formed globules that were displaced free of any observable PCL. Several previously anomalous situations in wool scouring related technologies are briefly discussed on the basis of the observed mechanisms.
Effects of Polar Organic Solvents on the Abrasion Resistance of Wool Fabric
Authors: Feldtman H.D. , Leeder J.D.
Published: March 2008

The Martindale flat abrasion resistance of worsted fabrics is improved by treatment with polar (swelling) solvents such as aqueous n-propanol and concentrated formic acid. The improvements are stable to mild finishing treatments and to conditions similar to those normally encountered during end-use, but are reduced by treatments in aqueous solutions above 80°C. The mechanism by which the abrasion resistance is improved has not been confirmed. Removal of lipid material from the cell membrane complex may be involved.
Effect of Jamming on Seam Pucker in Plain Woven Fabrics
Authors: Schwartz Peter
Published: March 2008

Geometrical relationships between fabric and sewing thread are developed for lock- stitch seams in plain woven fabrics. The tendency to pucker is associated with structural jamming within the fabric. Jamming increases with stitch count and decreases with thread size as reported in earlier studies.
Identifying Critical Process Variables in Poly(ethylene Terephthalate) Melt Spinning 1
Authors: Dutta A. , Nadkarni V.M.
Published: March 2008

A quantitative procedure for identifying critical operating conditions and material properties for the melt spinning of poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) is considered. The method is based on the experimental observation that for vitrified polymers like polystyrene and PET spun at speeds below 3000 m/minute, the molecular orientation of the as-spun fiber is uniquely determined by σ L, the spinline stress at the glass transition temperature. Using a constant tension model that predicts σ L, a sensitivity analysis of the fiber orientation to changes in process variables is investigated. Extrusion temperature, melt intrinsic viscosity, feed rate, and the takeup velocity are the key variables for PET melt spinning, as they strongly affect the freeze line location and the as-spun fiber orientation.
A Multi-Stage Apparatus for Characterizing the Cyclic Torsional Fatigue Behavior of Single Fibers
Authors: Duckett K.E. , Goswami B.C.
Published: March 2008

Torsional fatigue properties of textile fibers subjected to low cyclic torsional strain amplitudes are sensitive to the molecular structure and orientation. Multi-stage in strumentation capable of generating continuous oscillatory torsional strains and mon itoring times to failure is described. Examples are presented of fiber surface and internal morphologies of cotton, acrylic, and Kevlar® fibers caused by torsional fatigue at low strain amplitudes.
Catalytic Effect of Acetic Acid in the Reaction of a Polyamine with Wool
Authors: Rivett D.E. , Stapleton I.W.
Published: March 2008

The shrink-resist efficiency of Basolan SW on wool is increased when the fabric is pretreated with aqueous tetraethylenepentamine solution and heated. The reaction between wool and the polyamine is shown to be subjected to general acid catalysis whereby hydrogen ions in association with aliphatic carboxylic acids ( e.g., acetic acid) promote the polyamine-fiber reaction.
Effect of Moisture Content on Stress Ageing of Nylon 6
Authors: Verma Anu , Deopura B.L. , Sengupta A.K.
Published: March 2008

Stress ageing experiments on highly drawn nylon 6 filaments were carried out at different relative humidities. It is found that a marked improvement in properties occur when ageing is carried out at 30% relative humidity (RH) for filaments drawn at 50% RH. This effect has been explained on the basis of nonlinear variation of glass transition temperature as a function of moisture content. At an RH of about 30%, additional ordered regions are formed in the presence of applied stress, resulting in an improved structure and tensile behavior of the filaments.
Scavengers and pH Control in Aftertreatments for Reducing Formaldehyde Release from Durable Press Cottons1
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Daigle Donald J.
Published: March 2008

Recent studies from this Center have demonstrated the influence of the pH of washing and of application of buffered solutions on the amount of formaldehyde released from finished fabrics in the standard AATCC sealed jar test. This work has been extended to include investigation of the effect of aftertreatments, and the in terrelated influence of pH, on formaldehyde release from durable press cottons. In cluded in the study were application of aftertreatments from solutions of salts, acids, and bases that produce various pH levels; formaldehyde scavenger agents; and scavenger agents in conjunction with pH control. Also, aftertreatments with ammonium hy droxide and ammonium salts were explored for condensing ammonia with free form aldehyde in the finish to give hexamethylenetetramine and thus reduce formaldehyde release.

Fabrics were investigated that had been finished with dimethylol dihydroxyeth yleneurea, dimethylol ethyleneurea, and dimethylol isopropyl carbamate. Effectiveness of aftertreatments and scavenger applications for controlling formaldehyde release varied as a function of pH and the chemical nature of the finish. Depending on the particular finish, aftertreatments yielded formaldehyde release values ranging from considerably below that of the unwashed, finished fabric to several times that value.
Bending Rigidity and Hysteresis of Wool Worsted Yarn
Authors: Ly Nhan G. , Denby E.F.
Published: March 2008

The bending rigidity of wool worsted yams was estimated from the mean fiber diameter together with four correction factors due to fiber diameter distribution, yam twist, fiber ellipticity, and mean fiber length. The first two correction factors were the most important. The bending hysteresis (the coercive couple) increases as the maximum curvature attained in a cyclic bending test increases. This is only partly due to the viscoelasticity of wool fibers. It is possible that the frictional couple has a viscoelastic component as well.
Force-Extension Behavior of Helically Wrapped Elastic Core Yarns
Authors: Abbott G.M.
Published: March 2008

The force-extension behavior of a helically wrapped rubber-like core up to the point of wrap failure has been theoretically analyzed. In addition to the forces required to extend the wrap and core, there is a significant Poisson effect because the wrap applies a radial pressure to the core, particularly at higher helix angles.

Agreement between theory and experiment for gum-rubber cores closed butt wrapped with paper tapes was satisfactory, except at high strains where an increasing proportion of the core was no longer covered by the wrap and where the frictional contribution of wrap/core slippage became significant.
Dynamic Sorption of Semistable Foams by Fabrics
Authors: Bryant George M.
Published: March 2008

Foam is an effective medium for chemical treatment of fabrics at low wet pickup, due to the expanded volume and large internal surface area of the foam bubbles. For a high speed continuous process combining foam application and dissipation steps, foam of limited stability, with high shear susceptibility and dynamic sorption rate is needed. Such semistable foams require delivery of uniformly aged foam to the fabric under positive hydrostatic pressure and precise control of the foam-fabric contact time to achieve uniform distribution in the substrate. For these reasons, semistable foams cannot be applied uniformly by conventional coating methods using a doctor blade and foam bank of variable dimensions. Conversely, stable foams applied by coating methods lack the rapid dynamic sorption rate needed for high speed single- step application.

A mechanism of high speed foam application is proposed, whereby the breaking foam is distributed through the fabric via yam interstices under hydrostatic pressure, and the broken foam liquor wets the interfiber pores driven by interfacial forces. Wetting rates are calculated using typical FFT process operating conditions and cotton fabric geometric parameter estimates. The results indicate that through-fabric wet- out is completed during the interval when the fabric is over the applicator slot. The wetting of interfiber pores is predicted to be slower than through-fabric wetting, but rapid enough to be completed at the applicator. The comparatively rapid wetting rates of yam and fiber surfaces with respect to fiber swelling rates is postulated to make possible the uniform semistable foam application of finishing chemicals to hydrophilic fiber substrates at pickup levels substantially below their moisture ab sorption capacity.
Further Counts of Bacteria on U.S. Commercial Raw Cotton Fiber
Authors: Simpson Marion E. , Marsh Paul B.
Published: March 2008

As a result of a continuing interest in bacteria as a possible cause of byssinosis, previously reported counts of bacteria on U.S. cotton have now been extended. Counts have been made on 144 classer's samples from the 1981 crop by methods used previously with samples from the 1980 crop. The 1981 crop again exhibited great sample-to-sample variation in total bacteria and gram negatives within the same grade and growth area. Gram-negative bacteria were found at a million or more per gram of fiber in some classer's samples from the Southeast, Midsouth, and Texas-Oklahoma. Cottons from California's San Joaquin Valley, however, consistently showed bacterial counts much lower than the national average, continuing a trend shown in the 1980 crop. No constant or even near-constant proportionality occurred between numbers . for total bacteria and for gram negatives. In an additional series of 80 samples from Cone Mills Corporation, California cottons again showed exceptionally low bacterial counts. Bacterial numbers did not vary in any constant relation to the fiber's micronaire value.
Changes in Cotton Fiber Surfaces Due to Washing
Authors: Goynes Wilton R. , Carra Jarrell H. , Berni Ralph J.
Published: March 2008

Several "washing" procedures have been applied to harvested cotton fibers in at tempts to remove byssinogenic agents before processing. These procedures included washing at various temperatures, scouring, and bleaching. Microscopical examination, by both transmission electron microscopy and scanning electron microscopy, of cotton fiber surfaces showed a reduction in the number of loose surface particles present. Changes were also observed in the nature of the coatings on the fiber surfaces. Natural coatings appeared to have been removed in some cases, and heavier deposits were found on some surfaces. The nature of these deposits could not be determined since finishes had been added in the final bath of all washing processes.
Chemical and Physical Properties of Cotton Modified by N-Methylol Agents
Authors: Vail Sidney L.
Published: March 2008

Reaction mechanisms for conventional chemical finishing treatments for cotton and hydrolysis of these finishes involving acetals, aldehydes, or N-methylol finishing agents are similar in that the rate-determining step involves the formation of a res onance-stabilized intermediate ion. A study of these mechanisms suggests that in acetal or aldehyde type reactions, cellulose by virtue of its chemical structure can have an influence, often predictable, on reaction paths and rates.

On the basis of the concepts developed, the study suggests that acetal crosslinking agents in an optimized, conventional pad-dry-cure process must primarily involve either reactive acetals that act as donors of an appropriate aldehyde, e.g., formaldehyde, or less reactive acetals that must be applied under relatively strong reaction conditions. A similar prediction is made concerning crosslinking of cellulose with aldehydes; however, each aldehyde must be considered on its own because of the many factors involved. The theory behind these predictions is examined in detail and the importance of the chemical structure of the reactant and intermediates is stressed.
Relation Between Twist and Abrasion Resistance of Rotor Spun Yarns
Authors: Barella A. , Manich A.
Published: March 2008

The relation between twist and abrasion resistance of polyester, polyester-cotton (50/50), and polyester-viscose (50/50) open end spun yarns was studied. The same trend observed in Part I of this study concerning cotton yams, viscose, and acrylic yarns is shown here. Abrasion resistance indefinitely increases with yarn twist (up to a twist multiplier of a = 200).
Stretch Mercerization of Cotton Fibers
Authors: Kim Y.K. , Tae Jin Kang  , Seyam A.M. , El-Shiekh Aly
Published: March 2008

In this investigation three techniques were developed by which cotton fibers in roving form were mercerized and stretched to their original length and then neutralized in the stretched configuration. The effectiveness of the three stretching systems was evaluated by testing the processed fibers and yams. The mechanical properties of the yarns made from stretch mercerized rovings were compared with those of yarns made of untreated fibers and slack mercerized fibers. Their properties were also compared with the properties of yams that were package mercerized and single strand stretch mercerized.

The results show that a series of closely set rollers, gradually increasing in diameter from back to front, provide a reasonable device for stretching the individual fibers during mercerization. The yam produced from rovings with this technique shows superior properties over those of other methods studied in this investigation. Yarns made of stretch mercerized roving will have a higher strength retention after durable press treatment.
Mechanisms of Transient Moisture Transport Between Fabrics
Authors: Adler Martha Molly , Walsh William K.
Published: March 2008

A technique was developed to study moisture transport and to determine the mechanism by which moisture is transported between fabrics under transient conditions at low moisture contents. A variety of fabrics were tested and experiments were performed at various levels of moisture content from 3% to over 100% above regain.

Vapor diffusion was the major mechanism of moisture transport between two layers of fabric at low moisture levels for all fabrics. Wicking did not begin until the moisture content was high, more than 30% above regain for the woven samples. The knitted samples did not wick at all. Hydrophilic finished polyester samples had markedly improved transport rates at high moisture contents but showed no improvements at low levels of moisture where vapor diffusion prevails.

Moisture transport appears to be closely related to comfort. At low moisture levels, fabrics rated as comfortable transported more moisture than fabrics rated as uncom fortable. Polyester fabric to which a hydrophilic finish was applied to improve moisture transport by wicking was judged similar in comfort to the unfinished polyester. Both transport little moisture at low levels of moisture content, perhaps because at low levels of moisture content, wicking cannot occur, since there is an insufficient amount of moisture to fill the capillaries to permit wicking.
Characteristics of the Protein Contaminant Layer on Merino Wool
Authors: Anderson C.A. , Christoe J.R.
Published: March 2008

Some characteristics of the protein contaminant layer (PCL) extracted from a typical Australian Merino wool have been studied. The PCL was separated into water-extractable and particulate fractions, the overall yield being 4.1 %, of which 45% was soluble in water. Amino-acid analyses showed that the particulate PCL was mainly skin flakes and the water-soluble PCL was similar to the peptides found in suint.
Fiber Breakage During Carding
Authors: Wood Errol J. , Stanley-Boden Paul , Carnaby Garth A.
Published: March 2008

The model described in Part I has been evaluated using as a starting point fiber strength and withdrawal-force parameters derived from tensile testing. These param eters were then adjusted to give an optimum fit of the theory to published data. The differences in the measured and the fitted values could probably be mainly ascribed to differences between the wool types measured and those used in the published data and to differences between the slow loading in testing and the more rapid loading that occurs in carding. With optimum adjusted values of the parameters, it was possible to get good agreement between the predicted and the actual fiber length distributions after carding, except for a tendency for the proportion of short fibers to be underestimated. This was no doubt due to the nonconformity of actual fibers to some of the assumptions made.
Gel Permeation Characteristics of Jute and Cotton
Authors: Bertoniere Noelie R. , Rowland Stanley P. , Kabir Mohammad , Rahman Abdur
Published: March 2008

Gel permeation chromatography measurements, which have been used to dem onstrate changes in the pore structure of cotton resulting from chemical modification, were used to compare the pore structures of jute and purified cotton cellulose and to determine the effect of scouring on jute. Both native and scoured jute had greater pore volumes than purified cotton. Scouring effected an increase in the internal volume of the jute fiber over the measured range of pore sizes. Data on the fraction of the total internal water volume accessible to the water molecule itself indicated a similarity between cotton and scoured jute, but these and other data suggested a repelling interaction between the surfaces on the internal pores of native jute and the sugars used as test solutes. This repellant effect is attributed to the presence of lignin on these surfaces.
Improved Comfort Polyester
Authors: Demartino R.N. , Yoon H.N. , Buckley A. , Evins C.V. , Averell R.B. , Jackson W.W. , Schultz D.C. , Becker C.L. , Booker H.E. , Hollies N.R.S.
Published: March 2008

A series of polyester, cotton, and polyester/cotton blends and a few miscellaneous types were evaluated in a number of subjective wearer trials by the Gillette Research Institute.

The modifications, which were shown most substantially to improve the comfort of polyester, included certain engineering modifications, cross-section variations, and pressure jet treatments. Some modification combinations increased the perceived comfort level of polyesters to a point equal to or exceeding that of a 50/50 PET/ cotton blend and close to all cotton.
Distribution of Fiber Diameter in Greasy Wool Sale Lots
Authors: Whiteley K.J. , Thompson Barbara , Stanton J.H. , Welsman Sandra J.
Published: March 2008

Results are presented for the standard deviation of fiber diameter in sale lots of merino and crossbred fleece wools and skirtings. There is a strong positive association between standard deviation and average fiber diameter in all cases. In merino fleece wools, there are smaller increases associated with wools of poorer style and shorter length.
A Survey and Comparison of Laboratory Test Methods for Measuring Wicking
Authors: Harnett P.R. , Mehta P.N.
Published: March 2008

A critical survey of the laboratory test methods used to measure wicking is presented, and the four main methods are compared through application to a range of knitted fabrics produced from various fiber types. Correlation of the results indicates which combination of methods provides a meaningful assessment of fabric wicking properties in the context of clothing comfort studies. Observations on the wicking properties of various fiber types shows that wicking is often not inherent to the fiber, but is in part due to surfactants, such as spin finishes, which can be removed by washing.
Tinctorial Efficacy of Dyes in Polyester Fibers
Authors: Kissa Erik
Published: March 2008

Tinctorial efficacy of a dye, at any given concentration, is defined as the perceptual color intensity per unit dye concentration (g/m2) in the fabric. Color intensity is expressed by the Kubelka-Munk ΔK/S values calculated from reflectances measured as lightness-darkness with a green tristimulus filter. A plot of ΔK/S versus dye con centration in the fabric is linear on logarithmic scales and yields two parameters that describe the tinctorial efficacy of the dyeing process.

The tinctorial efficacy of dyes in polyester fabric is shown to depend on dyeing conditions. Padding with an aqueous dye dispersion containing a migration inhibitor produces a higher tinctorial efficacy than padding with a solution of the dye in a volatile solvent. The tinctorial efficacy depends also on the dye fixation conditions and increases in the following order: heating in tetrachloroethylene vapor at 160°C for 120 seconds << immersion in an aqueous surfactant solution at 130°C for 60 minutes ≤ heating in air at 213°C for 90 seconds. A lower tinctorial efficacy of dyes in continuous solvent dyeing in tetrachloroethylene is related to microscopically uneven dye distribution in fibers. The tinctorial efficacy increases when a fabric, padded with a dye solution and dried, is immersed in a hot aqueous surfactant solution to redistribute the dye before it diffuses into the fibers.
Comfort Properties of Polybenzimidazole Fiber
Authors: Demartino Ronald N.
Published: March 2008

Derivatized polybenzimidazole (PBI) fiber is a unique material that offers a com bination of high performance and improved comfort properties. PBI has excellent thermal and chemical resistance and significantly reduced flame shrinkage; it also possesses good moisture and tactile properties which lead to improved wearer comfort when used in thermal protection clothing. A series of subjective wearer evaluations has shown that PBI exhibits comfort ratings equivalent to 100% cotton.
Evaluation of the Effects of Temperature and UV-Absorber Treatments on the Photodegradation of Wool
Authors: Holt Leo A. , Milligan Brian
Published: March 2008

A simple controlled-temperature irradiator is described, which permits fabric samples to be irradiated at air temperatures in the range 35°C to 85°C. Photodegradation of wool fabrics, as assessed by measurement of breaking loads, tear strengths, and yel lowness indexes, increases rapidly as the temperature of irradiation is raised, and occurs 3 to 4 times faster at 75°C than at 35°C. A procedure is described for assessing the level of photoprotection conferred on wool by treatment with a UV absorber of the 2-hydroxybenzophenone type. Consistent lifetime improvement factors are ob tained for most levels of photodegradation, and for exposure either to the artificial light source or to sunlight through window glass.
Light Fading of Solubilized Vat Dyes on Nylon 66 Aftertreated with Hydroquinone
Authors: Shah C.D. , Jain D.K.
Published: March 2008

Quantitative measurements were made of the increase in lightfastness of solubilized vat dyes on nylon 66 aftertreated with hydroquinone. The increase is due to the anti- oxidant action of hydroquinone and not to ultraviolet absorption by this aftertreatment agent. The effect of aggregation was also studied, but in the case of two of the five dyes investigated, aggregation does not play any role in improving lightfastness, which is due to the anti-oxidant action of hydroquinone only. For other three dyes, both the factors contributed to improved lightfastness. Aftertreatment with hydroquinone caused changes in particle size distribution of these dyes on nylon 66.
Machine-Washable, Flame Retardant Treated Wool—Improvements to the Combined Sirolan and Zirpro Treatments
Authors: Gordon P.G. , Logan R.I. , White M.A.
Published: March 2008

The shrinkproofing polymer Synthappret BAP has a negative effect on fluorozir conate flame retardant treated wool by lowering the level of flame retardation. The incorporation of polyvinylidene chloride (PVDC) copolymer into the Synthappret reduces the loss in flame retardant finish if the wool is heavier than about 300 g/m2. Though better compatability is achieved when fluorozirconate is applied in the presence of citric acid, the results with intermediate weight (180-190 g/m2) fabrics remain poor. By co-applying tetrabromophthalic acid with the fluorozirconate/citric acid system, a flame retardant finish can be obtained over all fabric weights provided there is at least twice as much PVDC copolymer as Synthappret BAP. Wools so finished are fully machine washable for at least 10 domestic wash cycles.
Electrical Stimulation of Fabric Filtration
Authors: Lamb George E.R. , Jones Richard I.
Published: March 2008

The object of these studies was to assess the relative importance of different mech anisms that cause pressure drop reductions when baghouse filtration is aided by certain electrostatic means. The bag in this case was fitted with electrodes and a "lightning rod" was used to precharge the dust. Dust cake mass distributions were measured and showed that mass redistribution was sufficient to account for the observed pressure drop reductions; however, measurements with a permeability scanner also show that the permeability of a dust cake is greater when it is formed in the presence of an electric field. Thus the reduction in pressure drop is due to two main effects— mass redistribution and increased porosity, the former being dominant. Calculations of particle trajectories inside a bag yield results consistent with the observed deposition patterns and support the view that electric enhancement effects are due to Coulomb forces.