bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
The Resistance of Sized Yarns to Abrasion
Authors: Radhakrishnan T. , Mehta P.C. , Shelat B.R.
Published: March 2007

The laboratory tests which are now in use for assessing the weavability of sized warp yarns are reviewed. Reference is made to the "dummy loom" type of test in which the elements of abrasion, flexure, and cyclic loading are combined. Some data are presented on the tensile properties of sized yarns before and after they have been subjected to sus tained abrasion in the dummy loom. A study of these properties for different amounts of sixe pickup and different extents of abrasion has confirmed the hypothesis that the effect of this type of abrasion is to remove the size film at varying rates from different parts of the yarn. Some data are presented which suggest that the transient abrasive action of actual looms on sized warp yarns is similar in kind though much less severe in degree.
Some Thermal Properties of Fabrics
Authors: Bogaty Herman , Hollies Norman R. S. , Harris Milton
Published: March 2007

Examination of the thermal conductivity of fabrics in terms of the fiber conductance and fabric density shows that fabric insulation is determined by fiber arrangement as well as by fabric thicknes. Fiber arrangement is interpreted in terms of fibers lying parallel and perpendicular to the fabric surface, and it is shown that fabrics differ appreciably in this respect. For the smooth surfaced fabrics of cotton, nylon, and Orlon studied, the in crease in specific conductivity with applied pressure can be attributed mainly to an in crease in fabric density as there is very little change in fiber arrangement in such fabrics. For fuzzy surfaced fabrics of wool or blends containing wool, the change in density with applied pressure is counterbalanced by changes in the fiber arrangement. At low pres sures a substantial portion of the fibers lie perpendicular to the fabric surface but are bent over as the pressure is increased. At high pressures the fibers lie mamly parallel to the surface, but the fabric conducts less effectively because of the air layers between each fiber along the conducting path. Accordingly the specific conductivity of wool and wool-type fabrics is relatively insensitive to changes in applied pressure and this appears to be a direct result of the random arrangement of the fibers in these fabrics.
The Interference Microscope in Fiber Research
Authors: Heyn A. N. J .
Published: March 2007

Application of the Baker interference microscope in fiber research is described. It was found possible to reveal and distinguish fine details of the fiber structure and to recognize even minute differences in refractive index by color contrast. It is furthermore possible to determine quantitatively the refractive index of these details. The theoretical back ground is considered and the technique employed described. Typical examples with different fibers are shown.
The Yellowing of Nylon
Authors: Steiger Fred H.
Published: March 2007

Treatment with thermosetting formaldehyde resins increases the tendency of nylon to yellow when heated The terminal amine groups of nylon are involved in the discolora tion. These amine groups can be blocked by reaction with urea under normal textile curing conditions in order to produce a fabric with less tendency to yellow.
Uniformity Analysis of Yarns, Rovings, and Slivers Using Beta Radiation
Authors: Ewald P.R. , Landstreet C.B.
Published: March 2007

Beta radiation is being widely applied for control purposes in the manufacture of paper, sheet rubber and plastics, and of metal foils. Its application to the manufacture of textile strands presents special problems, but in this paper it is seen that they may be resolved. A statistical type of instrument is described which makes use of the unique properties of beta radiation in studying the uniformity of cottons during processing into yarn.
Microscopic Studies on the Structure and Composition of Keratin Fibers1
Authors: Menkart J. , Coe A.B.
Published: March 2007

The distribution of cystine sulfur in the cortex of various animal fibers has been investigated by the staining of cross sections with mercury vapor. The receptivity to dyes of various portions of the cortex has been found to be inversely related to their sulfur content.

After oxidation with peracetic acid or bromine, the cystine-rich portion of the cortex in bilateral fibers (the paracortex) swells more in aqueous solutions than the orthocortex. Fibers so oxidized swell greatly in dilute, neutral or alkaline, solutions of strong electrolytes; the swelling is repressed at higher salt concentrations.
Studies in the Adsorption of Arylamides of 2-Hy droxy-3-Naphthoic Acid and Related Compounds by Cellulosic Fibers
Authors: Daruwalla E.H. , Mehra R.H.
Published: March 2007

Adsorption of arylamides of 2-hydroxy-3-naphthoic acid and related compounds by a variety of cellulosic fibers under different conditions of application such as varying alkali concentration and sodium chloride concentration of the impregnating liquor, temperature, etc. is studied. Limitations of Marshall and Peters thermodynamic treat ment for calculation of affinity values are indicated and a modified thermodynamic treat ment is developed for calculation of affinity values in which consideration is given to the simultaneous adsorption of hydroxyl ions, from sodium hydroxide used, on the accessible hydroxyl groups in the fiber substance. In case of three arylamides, heats of adsorption and entropy changes during application have also been calculated. Correlation between affinity values of arylamides and their chemical constitution has been established.
Thermal Comfort of Clothing of Varying Fiber Content
Authors: Werden Jane E. , Fahnestock M.K. , Galbraith Ruth L.
Published: March 2007

This paper reports the results of thermal comfort studies on women subjects wearing complete outfits of clothing made from fabrics of cotton, nylon, acetate, and Arnel. The conditions of temperature and humidity were controlled to create environments ranging from slightly cool to hot. Total weight loss, evaporative weight loss, weight gain of clothing, rectal temperature, time of onset of sweating, and skin temperature were the objective measures used. A subjective comfort vote was also taken.

By use of these measures, no significant differences were found among the fiber types in relation to thermal comfort of clothing. At 94° F. and 80% relative humidity the percentages of gain in clothing weight because of perspiration absorption were related to the original weights of the clothing assemblies rather than the characteristic moisture regain levels of the natural versus the man-made fibers. Environmental temperatures of 88° and 94° F. and relative humidity of 80% had decided effects on the comfort vote and total weight losses of the subjects. Evaporative weight loss was affected by relative humidity at all temperatures used in this study.
The Stability to Laundering of Fabrics Made from Cellulosic Fibers
Authors: Lund G.V. , Waters W.T.
Published: March 2007

The laundering shrinkage of fabrics made from cellulosic staple fibers can be conveniently broken down into three types: first, fiber relaxation type, due to relaxation of strains imposed on fibers during processing; second, fabric relaxation due to fiber and yarn swelling which results in crimp adjustment and subsequent shrinkage; and third, "felting" or "progressive" type due to fiber movement. The fabric relaxation type of shrinkage is apparently dependent upon the degree of fiber swelling in water, while the felting or progressive type of shrinkage is primarily dependent upon the ease of stretch of the fibers in the wet state. Fibers with a tenacity at 5% extension of 0.6 g./den. make fabrics which do not suffer from "felting" or "progressive" shrinkage. Yarn and fabric geometry also affect both shrinkage types. In general it can be said that yarn and fabric constructions which give more bulk or less compactness will have less of the relaxation type of shrinkage potential. For felting type shrinkage, it is apparent that factors which facilitate relative fiber movement under severe water agitation will result . in greater felting shrinkage. Loose fabric construction and weave type, high yarn twist with warp and filling of similar twist direction, finer denier, and longer staple length all tend to increase the felting potential of cellulosic staple fabrics.
Part II: Formaldehyde-Curing after Amidoximation
Authors: Negishi Michiharu , Ito Heihachiro , Aida Nobuo
Published: March 2007

By amidoximation with the aqueous hydroxylamine and subsequent formaldehyde-curing in the presence of a weak acid catalyst such as ammonium acetate or even in the absence of catalyst, the crease resistance of cyanoethylated cotton fabrics containing a low percentage of nitrogen was improved significantly without much loss in the tensile strength and elongation, but a decrease in the flex abrasion and tear strength occurred. From the results, it was deduced that the longer cross link chain might be formed to some extent between adjacent amidoxime or hydroxamic acid groups in different cellulose molecules. After curing, the amidoximates retain great affinities for acid dyes and have a wool-like hand.
Some Dyes Solubilized by Thiolsufate Groups
Authors: Milligan Brian , Swan J.M.
Published: March 2007

Four thiolsulfato azo dyes (DSSO3Na) and three of the corresponding sulfonate - dyes (DSO 3Na) have been prepared and their dyeing behavior on wool studied. Three of the thiolsulfates were found to be unexpectedly good dyes, especially in regard to washfastness. The thiolsulfate dyes under certain conditions of application undergo partial decomposition, so that some dye becomes bound covalently to the wool and some is converted to the symmetrical dye disulfide (DSSD).
Supercontraction of Wool in Aqueous LiBr; In hibition by Free Br2 and its Relation to Sulfhydryl- Disulfide Interchange
Authors: Crewther W.G. , Dowling L.M.
Published: March 2007

Wool treated with N-ethylmaleimicle (NEMI) to decrease the sulfhydryl content by 70% supercontracts much more slowly than untreated wool at 98.5° C. in 6 M LiBr at pH 6, whereas in 4 M LiBr/l N HCl the contraction rates of treated and untreated fibers are equal. Pretreatment of wool with dilute bisulfite solutions accelerates supercontrac tion much more in 4 M LiBr at pH 8 than in 4 M LiBr/1 N HCl. It is concluded that interchange reactions between sulfhydryl and disulfide groups facilitates supercontraction. The presence of Br2 in the solutions of LiBr used for supercontracting wool fibers causes different effects according to the pH of the LiBr solutions. In 1 N HCl the 118 supercontraction is accelerated at all levels of contraction; at pH 4 to 5 the initial stage of supercontraction is accelerated and the second stage of contraction retarded; at pH > 6 supercontraction is retarded at all levels of contraction. Wool fibers super- contract in solutions of Br2 in dilute HCl even at low temperatures.

Evidence is presented that Br2 reacts with sulfhydryl groups of wool during super contraction in solutions of LiBr and that it acts at a site in the wool fibers affected by pretreatment with NEMI. Wool fibers which have been reduced with thioglycollate and either cross-linked with ethylene dibromide or reacted with methyl iodide show no change in contraction kinetics when Br2 is added to the LiBr solutions. It is concluded that Br2 inhibits supercontraction in solutions of LiBr by reacting with sulfhydryl groups and so interfering with interchange reactions between sulfhydryl and disulfide groups in the wool.
Mechanical Properties of Textile Fabrics Part I: Shearing
Authors: Behre Bengt
Published: March 2007

In this part, two alternative methods for measuring shear properties of fabrics are described. One method is recording and consistsof an attachment to the Instron Tensile Tester. Complete load-deformation curves are obtained. The stress distribution in a fabric sample subjected to shear is analyzed and the results used to construct a non- recording shear tester for routine testing.
Wool Fabric Stabilization by Interfacial Polymerization. Part I: Polyamides
Authors: Whitfield R.E. , Miller L.A. , Wasley W.L.
Published: March 2007

A new technique is presented for making wool fabrics shrink resistant. Through interfacial polymerization polyamides, e.g., poly (hexamethylene sebacamide), are formed on the surface of the textile fibers. Fabric is padded consecutively through an aqueous solution of a diamine and a water-immiscible solution of a diacid chloride. Polymeriza tion is extremely rapid and no heating or curing is required. Following the two-step padding, the fabric is simply washed and dried. Less than 5% resin on the fabric is required for dimensional stability in laundering. The wool fabrics treated are essentially unchanged in hand, flexural rigidity, break strength, percent elongation, and chemical resistance; they are improved in wrinkle recovery and smoothness after tumble drying.
Rate of Felting of Untreated and Shrink-Resistant Wool Fabrics
Authors: McPhee J.R.
Published: March 2007

Shrinkage-time curves for a range of wool fabrics, and the effect of various shrink- proofing treatments on these curves, have been studied. Felting rates of untreated fabrics depend on fabric structure and applied force in the way previously established [e.g., 3, 13, 15]. The shrinkage-time curves of treated fabrics show two definite stages, an initial portion indicating a very low felting rate, followed by a second stage where felting may be much more rapid. For a given fabric structure and given applied force, the felting rates of both stages, and the times at which the second stage begins, depend on the degree of treatment. The two-stage curves indicate two distinct steps in the felting of the fabrics and are not due to the fibers being unevenly treated.

Frictional properties of treated Merino 64's fibers show no correlation with shrink resistance, and the results are qualitatively different from those found with Lincoln 36's.

The importance of defining washing conditions when testing shrink-resistant wool fabrics is again emphasized by results showing that quite different impressions can be gained by washing in different machines and thereby applying different mechanical forces to the fabrics. In an extreme case, a treated fabric of loose structure, when washed for a given time in two different machines, can appear to be either completely shrinkproofed or scarcely shrink-resistant at all.
Kinetic Studies of the Wool -Water System
Authors: Watt I.C. , Algie J.E.
Published: March 2007

Kinetic studies of the sorption of water, following a change of water vapor pressure surrounding wool fibers and horsehair with a high initial or final water content, are described. The processes of absorption and desorption show non-Fickian behavior over the entire course of water content change. An additional non-Fickian anomaly, present for both integral and interval absorption, is an overshoot above the final equilibrium con centration of water in the fibers. It is apparent that the initial molecular configuration of the keratin has a marked influence on the sorption behavior. The effect is greater at the high relative humidities of the experiments reported in this paper than at intermediate relative humidities (approximately 50% RH) as reported in Part II.

Data obtained by a vibroscope technique show a different course of absorption, for the same changes of relative humidity around the fiber, than is found for the samples on the sorption balance. The non-Fickian nature of the process is evident in both techniques.
The Oxidation of Cotton Cellulose in the Presence of Direct Cotton Dyes
Authors: Datye K.V. , Nabar G.M. , Shroff G.G.
Published: March 2007

Cotton cellulose dyed with direct cotton dyes was oxidized with buffered sodium hypochlorite solutions under different conditions. An attempt was made to correlate the extent of degradation of cellulose and the oxygen consumption during oxidation with the chemical constitution of dyes. The behavior of dyed samples during exposure to Fade-Ometer light has also been examined to study the influence of the constitution of the dyes. The results are discussed with a view to correlating the behavior of these dyes with that of leuco vat dyes under similar conditions.
Radiation-Induced Interaction of Acrylonitrile with Cyanoethylated Cotton
Authors: Demint Robert J. , Arthur Jett C. , McSherry Wilbur F.
Published: March 2007

The radiation-induced interaction of acrylonitrile with cyanoethylated cotton prob ably involves grafting of side chains of acrylonitrile at the site of the cyanoethyl groups. The extent of interaction is dependent on the degree of substitution of the cotton and on radiation dosage. There are increases in delayed elastic recovery and elongation- at-break and decreases in permanent set, average stiffness, and solubility of the cellulose of the treated cottons.
The Statistical Interpretation of Fiber Counts in Yarn Cross-Sections
Authors: Cooper D.N.E.
Published: March 2007

Part I. In a model yarn spun from two components differing only in color. the factors affecting yarn irregularity may be divided into two classes, only one of which affects the regularity of blend proportions. The published tests for random mixing are reviewed and it is shown that the correct test for randomness is one based on the variance of blend proportions.

Part II. When tests based on the theory of blending are applied to blends of dissimi lar fibers, the results must be interpreted with caution. Departures from randomness may be safely detected, but these departures may be caused by the physical differences between the fibers rather than by insufficient processing.

Part III. The mixing of components within the cross-section must be considered separately, and special attention should be paid to effects in the yarn surface. The number of apparent groups along an arbitrary line in the section provides the most sensi tive test for departures from randomness, but information about the behavior of the individual components must be obtained by other means.
A Quantitative Study of Differential Dyeing of Cotton as a Means of Elucidating Fiber Structure
Authors: Rebenfeld L. , Hong Wu
Published: March 2007

An analytical procedure is described for placing the differential dye test for cotton fiber maturity on a quantitative and objective basis. The procedure involves the ex traction of the two dyes from a differentially dyed sample and spectrophotometrically analyzing the red and green dye uptake. The G/R value, defined as the ratio of green and red dye uptake, is shown to be a sensitive index of cotton fiber maturity. The mechanism of the differential dye test is discussed in terms of dyeing rates and fiber structure. The effects of swelling treatments on the differential dyeing test are also discussed.
The Physical Properties of Wool Fibers at Various Regains
Authors: Feughelman M. , Haly A.R.
Published: March 2007

At relative humidities ( p/p0) between 5% and 90% the force ft at time t acting on a a wool fiber at fixed extension in the yield region is given by ft = [a - b ( p/p0)]ϕ ( t). Here a and b are quantities independent of humidity and time, while ϕ( t) is a function of time only and approximately linear with the logarithm of time. A model consisting of a network of bonds with various energy barriers to breakdown is proposed to explain the above relationship between force and time. Further, this model is applied to explain the mechanism of recovery from cohesive set. The role of water in bond breakdown and the effect of the mobility of the water are discussed with reference to the mechanisms of relaxation and recovery.
Fabric Construction for Wash-and-Wear Cottons
Authors: Krasny John F. , Sookne Arnold M. , Stam Paul B.
Published: March 2007

Fabrics varying widely in fiber parameters and in yarn and fabric construction were treated with wash-and-wear resin formulations. Wash-and-wear ratings after tumble drying, crease recovery values, and breaking and tear strengths were determined.

It was found that the wash-and-wear ratings of cotton fabrics after tumble drying were not systematically affected by the fabric construction, except that light, open-weave fabrics performed poorly. The crease recovery of resin-treated cotton fabrics was also relatively insensitive to construction. Both of these properties could, of course, be im proved by increasing the resin concentration.

As a consequence of the relative insensitivity of wash-and-wear appearance ratings and crease recovery to construction variables, the principal emphasis in the design of functional wash-and-wear fabrics should be placed on gaining maximum strength. The breaking strength, at any one resin concentration, was found to be essentially linearly related to the weight of the fibers in the stressed yarn system, with the fiber strength ( Pressley, 5 mm between jaws) the only important secondary effect. The tear strength, too, was related in a gross manner to the fiber weight in the torn yarn system; it was, however, also improved by increasing the openness of the fabrics, by reducing the number of yarns per inch, by use of more open weaves, or by assembly of the fibers into fewer, coarser yarns rather than more numerous, finer yarns. The reduction of tear strength for a given improvement in wash-and-wear rating due to increased resin concentration seemed to be greater in fabrics woven from finer than those woven from coarser yarns and, in some cases, in open weaves as compared to plain weave fabrics. Quite generally, effects of fabric construction on crease recovery and strength observed in the untreated fabrics were reduced to various degrees by resin treatment.
Electronic Effects of Substituent Groups upon Acid Hydrolysis of Amido-Methylol Finishes on Cotton
Authors: Reeves Wilson A. , Vail Sidney L. , Frick J.G.
Published: March 2007

The results of a study on the susceptibility to acid hydrolysis of the products from the reaction of amido-methylol compounds with cotton are reported. A correlation was found between electron displacement and ease of hydrolysis. Substituent groups in the amido-methylol compounds play an important role in the electron displacement. Electron- releasing groups attached to either the amido nitrogen or the carbonyl carbon facilitate acid hydrolysis; electron-attracting groups hinder hydrolysis, Various hydrolysis mech anisms are considered for explaining the observed inductive and resonance effects. A mechanism wherein initial electrophilic attack is at the ethe al oxygen a fission of the link with cellulose is through carbonium ion formation appears co pletely satis factory in explaining the observed facts.
Supercontraction and Elongation of Modified Keratin Fibers in LiBr Solution
Authors: Haly A.R. , Swanepoel O.A.
Published: March 2007

Reduced keratin fibers when heated in 8 M LiBr solution at 100° C first contract and then lengthen. Reduced and methylated Corriedale wool fibers contract but do not lengthen under the same conditions. Reduced fibers that have been abraded to remove cuticle lengthen less than unabraded fibers. Mechanical, x-ray, and birefringence evi dence show that fibers that have increased to about their natural length are severely degraded and not elastomeric. In general the amount of elongation increases with increasing severity of the reducing treatment. It is suggested that elongation results primarily from a swelling pressure within the fiber produced by dissolution of protein.
Moisture Transfer in Textile Systems, Part I
Authors: Woodcock A.H.
Published: March 2007

From theoretical considerations a new clothing parameter, the moisture permeability index, has been developed, which describes the efficiency of fabrics or fabric systems in transferring moisture and its associated latent heat. This index extends the existing "clo" formula, which related dry or nonsweating heat loss to clothing insulation and ambient temperature, to include the heat losses from sweat evaporation. Using this index, it is possible to predict the environmental range over which man may maintain thermal balance with a given heat production or, alternatively, the range of activity and associated heat dissipation for any given environment. It thus supplies not only the missing parameter for quantitatively describing the effect of clothing in hot weather but also permits the same theory to be applied in hot, temperature, or cold environments.

The experimental method of determining this index is outlined, and typical results are given.
The Spectral Distribution of Sound Produced by Fibers and Fabrics in Friction
Authors: Thorsen Walter J.
Published: March 2007

New instrumentation, described in Part I, has made possible the accurate measure ment o sound spectra produced by fibers or fabrics in friction. Such spectra contain information related to many properties of these materials, and changes in these prop erties are reflected in changes in the sound spectrum produced. Increased fabric wrinkledness, fuzziness, and harshness, with certain exceptions, produce increases in sound intensities. Loose fine fibers produce less sound than coarse fibers. Highly crimped fibers in a fabric produce less sound than those with little crimp, and this is accompanied by increased fabric softness and flexibility. A converse effect of crimp on sound intensities is observed with loose fibers or sliver. In a fabric, fiber blend, yam twist, and textile mechanical and chemical processing are reflected in the sound spectrum generated in a manner which depends on the physical properties of component structural elements.
A Microscopical Study on the Degradation of Jute Fiber by Micro-Organisms
Authors: Basu S.N. , Ghose Rekha
Published: March 2007

A technique has been developed for detecting fungal growth on and inside the jute fiber by the differential staining of hyphae and fibers with Chlorazol Sky Blue stain. The test is also applicable to cotton. Growth inside the lumen is not a universal feature of fungal attack on jute, although nearly all the dark-colored fungi tested showed this property. which is not ordinarily lost or gained by changing external conditions of growth or by modifying the fiber. The minimum period required for lumen invasion has been found to be different for different species. Some of these fungi showed com paratively weak growth within the cotton fiber. Fungi growing within the lumen of jute seem to penetrate the fiber cell wall apparently at random, not at weak points nor through open ends. The active organisms attacking jute under different practical con ditions of damage have been found to be different. Granular bodies sometimes seen within the lumen of raw jute have been isolated and traced to a Bacillus species.
Gamma Ray-Induced Graft Copolymerization of Styrene onto Bleached Jute Yarn
Authors: Majumdar S.K. , Rapson W.H.
Published: March 2007

When styrene was heated at 60° C in the presence of bleached jute containing 80% water, the rate of homopolymerization increased a little compared with that in the absence of water or jute, but substantial grafting of polystyrene onto the jute occurred. When water was not added to jute, the percent grafting was very small. With increasing amount of added water, grafting increased gradually to a maximum at 80-100% water on jute and then fell off somewhat with more water. This is assumed to be due to the formation of a barrier by water to the diffusion of styrene into the jute

Pre-irradiation of bleached jute containing 80% water with increasing doses of gamma radiation decreased the amount of grafting on subsequent heating at 60° and 80°C. This phenomenon is peculiar to cellulosic materials containing some amount of lignin.

When bleached jute containing 80% water and the styrene were separately pre- irradiated and subsequently heated together, grafting onto bleached jute increased steadily with time and was greater than in cases where the components were not pre-irradiated or only the bleached jute was pre-irradiated. when only the styrene was pre-irradiated. thermal grafting was very great even greater than that in simultaneous grafting.
Thermal Transitions in Keratin
Authors: Mason P.
Published: March 2007

Simple methods for the observation of thermal transitions in keratin fibers are dis cussed and some typical results are described. For wool fibers or human hair stretched in water by approximately 0.5% (Hookean region), transitions were detected by bends in the force-temperature curve at points A. D. and E. occurring at approximately 30°. 80°, and 90° C. respectively. In addition, a transition region BC was shown up by a "smeared" curvature of the force-temperature curve over the approximate range 50- 60° C. This region BC corresponds to previously reported transitions in mechanical behavior and in thermal expansion: it is shown to be associated with crystalline micro- fibrils.

Reduction of the cystine in human hair, followed by methylation, widened the region BC but produced little change in the other transitions. Reduction of wool fibers without methylation produced a significant decrease in temperature of the whole region BC. but again there was little change in the other transition temperatures. By contrast, the transition A was lowered by using dilute alcoholic solutions, showing that hydrophobic bonding makes a contribution to the stability of the wool structure.
Fatigue in Textile Fibers
Authors: Prevorsek Dusan C. , Lyons W. James
Published: March 2007

It is shown that fatigue data on a polyester sample. Type 52 Dacron, 2may reasonably be taken as conforming to the third asymptotic distribution. Expressions are derived for the probability of survival as a function of strain amplitude and fatigue lifetime (number of cycles to rupture), based on this distribution. A family of curves of strain amplitude vs lifetime, corresponding to various probabilities of survival, is presented for the polyester sample.
Cohesion Phenomena in Rovings and Yarns
Authors: Barella A. , Sust A.
Published: March 2007

The cohesion of twisted stivers, expressed as minimum twist of cohesion, was studied. and the concurrent operating conditions in the roving frame were established in order to determine the coefficient of minimum twist of cohesion as a function of length and roving tension as well as of other fiber characteristics. A comparison was made of the properties of a yarn spun from rovings having minimum twist of cohesion with others for which the roving twist was within practical spinning range.
Studies on Cotton Crimp
Authors: Shiloh Miriam , Litav Yvette
Published: March 2007

The crimp parameters of various cotton samples were measured at four testing cycles with a relaxation period between the second and the third cycles. The recovery co efficients of these parameters were determined. It was found that at a second cycle the immediate recovery coefficients are 70 % for the crimp diameters and 50% for the crimp ratios and uncrimping energies. After a relaxation period of 24 hours, the re coveries become higher—65% for the crimp ratios and uncrimping energies and an almost complete recovery of the crimp diameters. At a fourth cycle, which follows the third one immediately, the results were found to be essentially the same as at the second one. By these results the presence of reversible and irreversible components of the crimp in cotton was indicated and their respective amounts were estimated.

The differences between the mean recovery coefficients of the various crimp parameters of all cotton samples were not found to be significant. Typical linear relationships which were found in the first part of this study for the crimp parameters at the first cycle were found for other testing cycles as well. The role of crimp recovery in cotton spinning is discussed.
Effect of Temperature and Draw Ratio on Force- Extension Properties of Twisted Fibers1
Authors: Prevorsek Dusan C. , Lyons W. James
Published: March 2007

When single fibers are twisted under constant tension before testing, a decrease in strength is observed. This reduction in strength is generally small with fibers having low orientation (low draw ratio) and increases as the draw ratio increases. The difference in the strength resulting from twist is negatively correlated with temperature.
Mechanical Behavior of Fabrics
Authors: Brenner F.C. , Chen C.S.
Published: March 2007

In the cyclic plate buckling and shearing of fabrics, two types of load-deformation response have been observed. There are those whose load deformation curves closely reproduce each other upon cycling and those whose curves precess. The former are referred to as "stable" curves, the latter as "unstable" curves.

Unstable curves are obtained on fabrics in which there are large frictional effects and the yarns move appreciable distances during deformation. From energy considera tions, it is shown that fabrics that produce stable curves will recover from' deformation better than those that produce unstable curves. This results because more energy will be stored during deformation and it requires less of the stored energy to overcome frictional effects during recovery in fabrics with stable responses.
Uptake of Clays by Cotton1
Authors: Schott Hans
Published: March 2007

Cotton swatches were treated with dispersions of sodium and calcium montmorit lonite and kaolinite. The amount of clay taken up by the fabric or retained after washing with water was studied as a function of clay concentration, number of wash cycles, and stirring speed.

Fabrics treated with sodium montmorillonite dispersions of different concentrations seemed to reach a saturation uptake of 0.32% clay at very low clay concentrations. An apparent saturation limit of 0.75% clay was obtained for calcium montmorittonite only at higher concentrations, and no saturation was observed for kaolinite.

Cotton swatches treated with sodium montmorillonite dispersions and given suc cessive wash cycles attained the constant clay content of 0.13% ± 0.01% after the third wash cycle. This level of tenaciously retained clay was independent of concentration. rate of stirring, and temperature. It was not increased by introducing carhoxytic acid groups into the cellulose in the H+, Na+, Ca++ or Fe+++ form.

The ash of fabric treated with sodium montmorillonite was a shrunken replica of the fabric, preserving microscopic details faithfully. These facts and comparison of the specific surface areas of cotton and sodium montmorillonite indicate that cotton was completely covered with a clay layer having an average depth of 3-4 laniellae of 9.5 A each. Owing to the fact that primary particles in sodium montmorillonite dis persions are packets averaging 3-4 lamellae, the depth of coverage was greater than single lamellae.

The ash of fabric treated with kaolinite retained the bare outline of the weave because kaolinite did hot cover the fibrils with a coherent layer. Successive wash cycles gradually reduced the kaolinite level of the fabric, following first-order kinetics. Cal cium montmorillonite was intermediate between sodium montmorillonite and kaolinite : the ashes preserved the microscopic details of the fabric structure, but a constant clay level was only attained by fabric treated with dilute dispersions and after many wash cycles.

The difference between sodium montmorillonite and kaolinite results from the fact that montmorillonite breaks up into very thin flakes in water and has a much higher specific surface area than kaolinite. Moreover, the thinner montmorillonite flakes mold themselves to the cellulose fibrils and establish a much more intimate contact than the less Hexible kaolinite.
Heat Transferred by Decomposition Products from Cotton Fabrics Exposed to Intense Thermal Radiation
Authors: Davies John M. , McQue Bernard , Hoover Thomas B.
Published: March 2007

Heat is transferred to skin protected against intense thermal radiation by several mechanisms. Textile fabrics provide considerable protection but some of them tend to decompose, producing tars which condense on the skin. The amount of energy trans ferred by tars from cotton fabrics was estimated by determining the amount of tar deposited and the amount of energy required to re-evaporate the tar. Two fabrics were used; one untreated, the other fire resistant treated (FR) with brominated triallyl phosphate. The energy amounts to about 500 cal for each gram of tar evaporated and is about the same for the two fabrics. Over the range of interest, the amount of tar deposited increased with increase in exposure. For fabric in contact with a skin simu lant, the energy transferred by this mechanism varied up to 1 cal cm-2 of fabric; for the spaced arrangement, up to 1.5 to 2 cal cm-2. For low and intermediate exposures, the energies transferred by the tar were about the same for the two fabrics; at the highest exposures, the values were considerably greater for the FR treated fabric. At exposures which produce disabling burns, the heat transferred by the tars is negligible for fabric in contact with the skin but for fabrics spaced from the skin, the tars may account for a fourth or more of the total energy transferred. Without this energy, the burn would be greatly reduced.
Nonwoven Fabric Studies
Authors: Zeronian S.H.
Published: March 2007

Webs of viscose rayon fibers that had been grafted with vinyl polymers were bonded to form nonwoven materials by the application of heat and pressure (heat-bonding) and by the application of an acrylic binder (saturation-bonding). The physical properties of the products were determined. The results obtained with the heat-bonded materials indicate that, for the experimental conditions used, the self-adhesive power of viscose rayon fibers containing poly- n-butyl methacrylate is greater than that of viscose rayon containing polymethyl methacrylate, polymethyl acrylate, or poly- n-butyl acrylate. In the case of the saturation-bonded materials, the results show that grafting n-butyl acrylate to viscose rayon can increase the strength of fabrics produced from these fibers with an acrylic binder of polymer composition of n-butyl acrylate/acrylic acid 95/5. The increase in strength becomes more marked at higher binder contents. It is suggested that the grafting has increased the adhesion between the binder and fiber. Grafting acrylic acid to the fibers does not have any effect on the strength of saturation-bonded fabrics produced from the fibers. A comparison of the tensile properties of the heat-bonded and saturation- bonded fabrics shows that, for a given strength, the former materials have considerably higher initial modulus.
Nonwoven Fabric Studies
Authors: Zeronian S.H. , Wilkinson J.
Published: March 2007

The binder contents, initial moduli (measured from the initial slopes of load- elongation curves) and bending moduli of laboratory-made and commercial, saturation- bonded nonwoven fabrics have been determined. The materials have also been de laminated and the binder contents of the delaminated materials have been determined, together with the initial moduli of the delaminated surface sections. The results show that in all the fabrics examined the binder distribution is not uniform in the thickness direction of the materials. It is found that the fabrics become more difficult to delaminate as the binder distribution becomes more uniform. There is a considerable discrepancy between the initial modulus and bending modulus of all the fabrics tested. The results are discussed in terms of the effect of binder content distribution on the initial modulus and bending modulus of the fabrics.

The fibrous material present in laboratory-made saturation-bonded nonwoven mate rials of progressively decreasing binder content has been dissolved out and the form of the residues examined. With all three binders examined, the residues of fabrics of 6% binder content were in the form of films, indicating the presence of a continuous matrix of binder in the original materials. With two of the binders, the residues of fabrics of 3% binder content were also in the form of films.
Effects of Variety and Location on Stress-Strain Components of Cotton Fiber Bundles
Authors: Worley Smith , Krowicki Richard S. , Henry Zachary A.
Published: March 2007

A definition and a method of measuring true gage length is presented. An increase of true gage over nominal gage length is shown. Greater differentiability of true gage length is indicated for locations than varieties at the same locations.

Tenacity and elongation values with and without adjustment for true gage length are compared. Adjusted values indicate underestimates of tenacity and overestimates of elongation at nominal gage length. Tenacity values appear to decrease while elonga tion appears to increase with decreasing night temperatures.
Improvement of Luster of Wool Fabrics
Authors: Fourt Lyman
Published: March 2007

Methods for increasing the luster of wool fabrics have been compared. Where luster arises from oriented pile fibers, as in velour coating fabrics, the luster can be increased and made more durable by light interfacial polymerization treatments or by reduction and setting with monoethanolamine sulfite.

When luster depends on the surface properties of the fibers, as in clear finish worsteds, some of the oxidative or subtractive antifelting treatments also add to luster. Chlorination with chlorine gas or acid hypochlorite treatments are the most favorable. Adverse effects on hand limit these treatments. Other oxidative shrinkproofing treat ments show less improvement in luster or even lower it.

Film-forming polymers can be used to increase the luster of clear-finish fabrics if they are applied after a preliminary treatment which increases the surface energy of the wool fibers. When applied without the pretreatment, the polymers produced smaller increases in luster or even decreased the luster. ' Effective preliminary treatments are shrinkproofing by acid or alkaline hypochlorite, oxidation with hydrogen peroxide, or reduction with thioglycolic acid.
Treatments of Wool in Organic Solvents and Their Effect on the Urea-Bisulfite Test
Authors: Sotiriou-Provata M. , Vassiliadis A.
Published: March 2007

Treatment of wool in a number of organic solvents reduces both its cystine content and its solubility in urea-bisulfite. Some reagents attack the disulfide bond in such a way that hydrogen sulfide is evolved. As, however, no lanthionine has been found, and the effect due to lysinoalanine is not yet known, it could be claimed that no correlation exists between cystine breakdown and reduction in solubility. The latter is probably due to physical changes of the keratin molecule, and it is affected by the temperature of the treatment and the size of the molecule. Purification of wool by extraction in a Soxhlet apparatus with diethylether and ethanol reduces the solubility and must be avoided. Petroleum ether of either low or high boiling range or extraction in the cold with diethylether and ethanol has no effect on the solubility.
Studies on Decrystallization of Cotton
Authors: Patil N.B. , Radhakrishnan T.
Published: March 2007

This paper presents x-ray diffraction studies on acid-hydrolyzed and ball-milled celluloses which are, respectively, used as "standards" of crystalline and amorphous cellu lose in crystallinity determinations of other samples. It is shown that the observed x-ray powder diffractograms of cellulose I and II standards, when compared with calcu lated diffraction profiles of cellulose crystallites with certain plausible dimensions, clearly indicate the presence of small amounts of imperfectly ordered material in both "standards." Data on some physical properties of these standards also support this finding. In the case of ball-milled cellulose, it has been shown that above a scattering angle of 43° with copper radiation, the intensity of scattering can be completely accounted for in terms of independent scattering from individual β-anhydroglucosidic units. Below this angle, the diffuse maximum in the scattering curve appears to be due to the repeat distance within a cellulose chain. Thus, ball-milled cellulose is a satisfactory amorphous standard.
Chemical Structure of Resin-Treated Cellulose
Authors: Willard John J. , Turner Rudolph , Schwenker Robert F.
Published: March 2007

The chemical covalent bonding of trimethylolmelamine (TMM) with cotton cellu lose produced under wet and dry curing conditions has been further investigated. The extent of chemical reaction with cellulose and the location of substituents on the anhydroglucose units were determined by an analytical scheme embodying chemical modification, complete hydrolysis, and gas chromatography of the analysis products. High temperature (160°C) curing gave rise to much greater extents of reaction with cellulose than curing under wet conditions. In the case of TMM, reaction at the primary. hydroxyl (C6) predominated at DS 0.16, whereas the major reaction of a methylated TMM having DS 0.30 occurred at C2.
The Behavior of Fabrics in Shear
Authors: Spivak S.M.
Published: March 2007

A new instrumental method for the analysis of the stress-strain behavior of fabrics in shear has been designed which utilizes the Instron and its automatic recording. It is similar in principle to the laboratory method previously employed by Treloar. A cotton and a spun viscose fabric were investigated for their dependence of shear properties on specimen shape and normal stress. The range of variables previously investigated by Treloar has been extended to include specimen shapes corresponding to length: width ratios of 1:1 to 20: 1, and normal stresses of 0 to 120 g/cm.

It was found that the properties of the long, narrow specimen in shear were much less sensitive to the normal stress than were those of the square specimen, particularly at the important lower values of the normal stress. The more favorable wrinkling behavior of the long, narrow specimen enables one to extend the range of test conditions beyond those of the square specimen. It is further shown that Behre's theory for the incidence of wrinkling could not be experimentally corroborated.
The Morphological Origin and Reactions of Some Keratin Fractions
Authors: Asquith R.S. , Parkinson D.C.
Published: March 2007

A simple procedure has been devised to obtain reproducible estimations of the pro portions of keratose fractions to be derived from keratin fibers. Keratose estimations on wool, hair, and some isolated cell components provide direct chemical confirmation of the origin of these protein fractions within the fibers. Based on this evidence, keratose estimations on treated wools have been used to determine the location of reaction sites within the fiber. Cross-linking treatments, in particular, have been investigated.
A Study of the Mechanism of Loop Formation on Weft-Knitting Machinery
Authors: Knapton James J. F. , Munden Dennis L.
Published: March 2007

The effect of input tension and cam setting on fabric quality and plain-knitted loop formation is investigated in detail, using a lubricated viscose staple yarn. It is indicated that the K1-4 values are not strictly constants, but are variable when a wide range of knitting stiffnesses are studied. An investigation of the mechanism of loop formation shows that the phenomenon of "robbing-back" is the fundamental factor influencing the size of the knitted loop, and that the percentage "robbed-back" (% R.B.) values are predictable under known knitting conditions. This work suggests that % R.B. is dependent solely on the actual tensions that occur within the knitting zone, and that this robbing action is a function of the machine characteristics and is independent of the yarn, assuming identical yarn frictional properties.
Circularity of Cotton Fibers and the Effects of Alkali Concentration and Tension on the Changes Brought About in it During Mercerization
Authors: Oka P.G. , Prakash Jai , Iyengar R.L.N.
Published: March 2007

This paper deals with changes in the circularity of cotton fibers when slick- mercerized and under different tensions in various concentrations of caustic soda. The percent increase in circularity depends on the circularity of the raw cotton. The Adder ley method for determining the circularity can give fairly reliable results for purposes of comparison.