bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Information technology and organisational structure: vindicating theories from the past
Authors: Sor Roger
Published: March 2004

Last century, J.R. Galbraith discussed the relationship between the amount of information an organisation processes and its structure. J.D. Thompson discussed a related topic of task interdependence and coordination. Given that the processing and management of information is the basis of electronic commerce (EC), the fastest developing mode of conducting business today, it is apposite to ask how relevant Galbraith’s and Thompson’s theories are today. As organisations increase their offerings and influence to attain competitive advantage they become more complex. Both information technology (IT) and the theories of Galbraith and Thompson assist them to reduce that complexity.
The facets of the entrepreneur: identifying entrepreneurial potential
Authors: Thompson John L.
Published: March 2004

People who start new businesses vary in the degree of entrepreneurial talent and temperament they possess. The same is true of strategic leaders and intrapreneurs inside large organisations, where entrepreneurial people are required to champion the change agenda in dynamic and turbulent environments. These issues can be explored in the context of six key entrepreneur character themes, or natural and instinctive behaviours. Techniques help, but alone they cannot compensate for missing characteristics. Without the important entrepreneur characteristics, survival and growth rates are lower. This paper outlines a new framework for identifying entrepreneurs and describes the research programme through which the model has been validated.
UK defence supply chain relationships: a study of sustained monopoly
Authors: Humphries Andrew S. , Wilding Richard
Published: March 2004

Business‐to‐business, supply chain relationships within sustained monopolies, such as those within UK defence procurement, have received scant attention by management researchers. This paper describes the results from a substantial, exploratory research project that used Williamson’s organisations failure framework as a theoretical model. Surprisingly, it revealed that many issues surrounding supply chain management implementation were similar to those found in “normal” markets and that it played an important part in reducing the inherently negative effects of monopolistic relationships. The research sheds new and useful light on the dynamics of this unusual busin
A framework for the strategic management of long‐term assets (SMoLTA)
Authors: Tranfield David , Denyer David , Burr Mike
Published: March 2004

Managing long‐term infrastructural assets, such as real estate, buildings and equipment, is becoming more topical at the strategic level. Such assets are reported to comprise 25 per cent or more of corporate assets and occupancy costs represent 40‐50 per cent of net operating incomes and are often the third most expensive item (behind labour costs and IT). Managers with little experience of the strategic management of long‐term assets (SMoLTA) often find this a challenging agenda. This paper reports exploratory research on how managers are addressing the SMoLTA and is drawn from the views of senior managers in 25 organisations of varying sizes from the public and private sectors. In addition, the paper uses data from research on management practices in four case companies that have excellent reputations in this field, synthesising the findings into algorithmic form. This algorithm is developed and presented as a tentative framework which aims to help facilitate managers in aligning corporate and infrastructure strategy.
The importance of capabilities for strategic direction and performance
Authors: O’Regan Nicholas , Ghobadian Abby
Published: March 2004

This paper re‐visits the perennial question “Why do some firms perform better than others?” by focusing on the resource‐based view of strategy and in particular the role of generic organisational capabilities in the achievement of overall performance and competitive advantage. Presents findings based on data collected from 194 manufacturing small to medium‐sized enterprises. The analysis confirms the authors’ contention that generic organisational capabilities have a positive impact on strategy deployment and on the achievement of overall performance. The findings indicate that generic capabilities enable firms to manage for the future by focussing on customer’s needs and requirements, while at the same time managing crises and problems arising in their operating environment. A further analysis comparing the emphasis on generic capabilities by both high and low performing firms found that high‐performing firms emphasised capabilities to a far greater extent than low‐performing firms. This implies that generic capability is one of the main drivers of performance. The analysis suggests that firms seeking high overall performance would be well advised to ensure that they actively consider their generic capabilities as the basis of their strategic direction. In short, alignment of the generic capabilities and strategic planning is a prerequisite for high performance.
The contribution of neural networks and genetic algorithms to business decision support
Authors: Metaxiotis Kostas , Psarras John
Published: March 2004

Managing large amounts of information and efficiently using this information in improved decision making has become increasingly challenging as businesses collect terabytes of data. Intelligent solutions, based on neural networks (NNs) and genetic algorithms (GAs), to solve complicated practical problems in various sectors are becoming more and more widespread nowadays. The current study provides an overview for the operations researcher of the neural networks and genetic algorithms methodology, as well as their historical and current use in business. The main aim is to present and focus on the wide range of business areas of NN and GA applications, avoiding an in‐depth analysis of all the applications – with varying success – recorded in the literature. This review reveals that, although still regarded as a novel methodology, NN and GA are shown to have matured to the point of offering real practical benefits in many of their applications.
Evaluation research in business schools: students’ rating myth
Authors: Petridou Eugenia , Sarri Katerina
Published: March 2004

This paper is an “evaluation” study in the form of an extensive “case study” of one particular business school in Greece. Its alleged contribution focuses on the conclusions it hopes to draw in relation to the evaluation research methodology, based on the case evaluation research, experimenting with the use of students' ratings (SETs). The effect of a number of quantitative variables (expected course grade, student study hours, course difficulty, and instructor grading system) as well as of a number of qualitative variables (student's major discipline and reason for taking a course, and instructor gender and employment status) on SETs are examined in order to provide a basis for restructuring the currently employed evaluation research methodology.
University selection: information requirements and importance
Authors: Veloutsou Cleopatra , Lewis John W. , Paton Robert A.
Published: March 2004

This paper aims to examine the information requirements and the importance of various types of information for potential students when selecting a university. Using data from 306 pupils studying at various schools in England, Scotland and Northern Ireland seven broad information categories relating to university selection have been identified. It also revealed that the ranking of the various types of information required and the importance of this information is relatively similar.
Teachers’ perceived need to doubt: school conditions and the principal’s role
Authors: Schechter Chen
Published: March 2004

Facing a turbulent and uncertain period, schools need to cast doubt upon their ongoing practices in order to have a significant impact on their students. However, conditions underlying the school system hinder the teachers' perceived need to doubt, which diminishes a schools' ability to learn and consequently change. In light of these hindering conditions, the principals' role of enhancing the perceived need to doubt within teachers is of utmost importance. Principals need to both establish institutionalized learning mechanisms and instill a learning culture as a means of initiating a productive school reform.
Having a field day: managerialism, educational discourse and the fifth province of Ireland
Authors: Martin Matthew , D’Agostino Leo
Published: March 2004

From the perspective of lecturers in English and Humanities, this paper addresses the current crisis of managerialism in higher education, grounding the discussion in the realities of smaller institutions in Northern Ireland. It begins with the premise that the language of auditing, bureaucracy and accountability has achieved hegemony within such institutions and within the broader academic community. In Field Day's notion of a “fifth province”, we find a particularly useful model for developing the case that the space sought is most likely extra‐mural with respect to institutions, but critically engaged with those institutions at the same time. We then ask what intellectual and educational role the activity of such a “Field Day” should play with respect to public discourse and to the role of the public intellectual.
Entrepreneuring in education
Authors: Vinten Gerald , Alcock Steve
Published: March 2004

Encouraging entrepreneurship has become an accepted wisdom in economic management and government policy. It could only be a matter of time before the world of education was invoked as a means of furthering this end. Business schools have not made the most incisive contribution possible, and there is a significant expectations gap. So as we cascade down to the secondary level, efforts are being made to improve matters. The initiative of the National Foundation for Teaching Entrepreneurship is outlined, and research results relating to impact are provided. This is a systematic and comprehensive approach, which started in the USA and has currently spread abroad. It has been well received, and is a suitable means of planting seeds that may come to fruition in later life. It is an action learning approach, which is an excellent vehicle for teaching business studies. It has proved itself in widening access to under‐privileged groups.
The accounting system and resource allocation reform in a public university
Authors: Spathis Charalambos , Ananiadis John
Published: March 2004

This paper studies the accounting system reform practised in Greek universities since January 2000, and more particularly at the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki (AUTH). It specifically examines the allocation of resources to faculties by university management based on certain criteria. The AUTH is the largest public university in Greece and one of the largest in Europe. Following a study of financial data on variances in expenditure over the past 12 years, the application of a new method for allocating funds to departments is proposed through use of a certain formula. The results from the application of the formula for resource allocation have shown that the latter needs to be modified in order to be considered fairer and be accepted by the academic community.
The relevance of Spanish local financial reporting to credit institution decisions
Authors: López Hernández Antonio M. , Caba Pérez Carmen
Published: March 2004

Financial reporting information had been aimed mainly at internal users and audit offices, but this has changed in recent years. Potential users have widened, among whom we should mention certain financial institutions, owing to their particular relevance. In this context, based on a sample of 54 credit institutions, this study aims to obtain evidence on the information that is shown to be useful to these users in their decision‐making, by looking at the Spanish financial reports. A study is also made of causes that restrict the usefulness of local financial information, along with possible suggestions to make this information more useful to credit institutions. The results reveal that owing mainly to legal reasons, the profit and loss account and the balance sheet are the least relevant financial statements to credit institutions’ indebtedness operation decision making. Likewise, it is obvious that current local financial information needs to become more opportune, reliable, complete and understandable.
Job sharing and equal opportunities under the new public management in local authorities
Authors: Branine Mohamed
Published: March 2004

This paper starts with the assumption that local authorities, under the new public management, may use job sharing as part of an equal opportunities policy in order to attract and retain experienced and professional employees. Data collected from 32 councils in England and Scotland have shown that although most of the female employees would possibly prefer to work flexibly through job sharing, there was little or no established policies for the implementation of job sharing as a means of providing equal opportunities. With the consolidation of the new public management in local authorities in the late 1990s, the approach to the use of job sharing and flexible working in general has changed from emphasising equality to meeting business objectives. The promotion of job sharing is very limited and its implementation often restricted. Job sharing is undermined by a culture of full‐time work and determined by economic motives.
Managing quality enhancement in the personal social services
Authors: Watson David
Published: March 2004

This paper examines the issues of front‐line workers within residential childcare, giving their feelings on how recent government sponsored quality enhancement initiatives have impacted on service delivery. Residential childcare has been at the forefront of government sponsored quality developments since the early 1990s. It reflects many of the problems and dilemmas faced by the wider personal social services sector when applying performance enhancement techniques. It has low status, is poorly resourced, and provides a service for “customers” who have multiple needs, but have little say in relation to their referral for provision. The findings from this study give support to the contention that for front‐line workers, many of the government's quality initiatives are limited or irrelevant to the “real” task of providing a service to residents – continuous improvement requires the practical benefits of a structured and planned performance enhancement culture, and the appropriate resources to achieve that goal.
Between rhetoric and reality
Authors: Levy Roger Peter
Published: March 2004

Despite inauspicious circumstances, the European Commission embarked on an ambitious programme of management reform in 2000, and in 2003 the reform Progress Review claimed that it had been implemented. There is now a substantial body of literature examining the theory and practice of public management reform under different conditions. Using these models and an implementation matrix differentiating between types of reform action, this article analyses these claims. The findings suggest a considerable gap exists between reform rhetoric and the reality of its application.
Codes of ethics best practice in the Swedish public sector: A PUBSEC‐scale
Authors: Svensson Göran , Wood Greg
Published: March 2004

This article examines the results of a study conducted of the top 100 public sector units in Sweden. The aim of the study was to examine and describe the codes of ethics in these Swedish public sector units. Reports on the responses of 27 public sector units that possessed a code of ethics. The content analyses of these codes indicate that they have only recently become an interest in public Sweden. Many public sector units are in the early stages of development and assimilation of codes of ethics artefacts into overall ethics policies in the organization. A customized PUBSEC‐scale was used to measure and evaluate the content of the codes. The code of ethics best practice in the Swedish public sector has been used to develop a public sector scale consisting of seven dimensions and 41 items. The PUBSEC‐scale differs from the current private sector scales in literature, owing to the specific characteristics of the public sector.
Capturing the customer’s voice, the centerpiece of strategy making
Authors: Bhattacharyya S.K. , Rahman Zillur
Published: March 2004

For sustainable competitive advantage a firm must be able to create and retain customers. One of the necessary conditions for this is that a firm's product must be able to meet the customers' needs and wants. For product planning and development, a firm therefore needs to know what customers want from a product. Professor Kano suggests a model that helps us identify which functions or features of a product cater to the basic needs, performance needs or excitement needs of a customer. This paper discusses how Kano's model can be applied to identify how customers perceive services of a bank. The importance of Kano's model is that it involves little mathematical computation and relevant information can be obtained quickly.
The reformation of European corporate reporting
Authors: Stittle John
Published: March 2004

By 2005 the group financial statements of companies listed on a stock exchange in an EU member state must be prepared in accordance with International Accounting Standards (IASs). The adoption of IASs should,inter alia: facilitate the movement of capital; remove barriers to cross‐border trading; permit comparison of company results; and assist the evaluation of managerial and corporate performance. The introduction of IASs will impact, in varying degrees, on companies in all member states. However, the affect of IASs on corporate reporting will be more limited in the UK. The UK's existing corporate reporting framework already has significant similarities with many of the IASs' objectives. But for most other EU countries, the adoption of IASs will cause a significant upheaval in accounting policies and in the preparation of annual financial statements. To be implemented successfully, a significant gulf needs to be bridged between the new reporting policies in the IASs and the high degree of state regulation and legalistically‐driven reporting systems already established in these countries. Overall, the introduction of IASs should bring longer‐term benefits but a number of reporting challenges and even confusion will result in the short‐term.
Factors restricting success of strategic decisions
Authors: Taslak Soner
Published: March 2004

This study analyzes the problems restricting success of formulation and implementation of strategic decisions and tests whether there are meaningful differences between firm groups categorized by success levels obtained in strategic decision making and implementing processes by dealing with each problem. The Turkish textile industry was examined in this study. Five formulation problems and six implementation problems were frequently experienced by the sample group. Findings showed that the most important formulation problem was “uncertainties arising from national economic conditions”, and the two of most important implementation problems were “implementation activities taking more time than originally planned”, and “uncontrollable factors in the external environment”. ANOVA results demonstrated that there were meaningful diversities among firms attained different success level for four formulation and two implementation problems.
Triadic trust in business networks: a conceptual model and empirical illustration
Authors: Svensson Göran
Published: March 2004

Argues that the unidirectional measurement and evaluation of the trust in a specific business relationship is not enough to understand the trust between two actors in a dyadic business relationship. Furthermore, mutual trust may not always be sufficient to understand the trust in a specific dyadic business relationship. The incorporation of a third actor may improve the understanding of trust in dyadic business relationships. Therefore, a method is applied to analyze the dynamics of trust in triadic business networks.
Dimension and organisational behaviour
Authors: Feliciana de Sá Cunha Machado Carolina , Augusto Barros Fernandes Joel
Published: March 2004

The Portuguese economy is characterised by the existence of small companies, for which it is very difficult to find critical dimensions to obtain scale economies to production, distribution, and commercialisation. It became an interesting field to study. This article will study an important Portuguese traditional sector, where quality and know‐how is a reality: the production and commercialisation of the furniture sector. Characterised by a small dimension, almost 3,400 firms with an average of 20 persons each, this article tries to understand the reason why these firms could or could not be interested in co‐operation nets, mergers or acquisitions, compatible with a bigger organisational dimension. While some are interested in co‐operating, increasing their dimension, others resist these changes due to some human resources and organisational behaviour problems.
On‐demand production system of apparel on the basis of Kansei engineering
Authors: Shimizu Yoshio , Sadoyama Tsugutake , Kamijo Masayoshi , Hosoya Satoshi , Hashimoto Minoru , Otani Tsuyoshi , Yokoi Kouich , Horiba Yousuke , Takatera Masayuki , Honywood Michael , Inui Shigeru
Published: March 2004

This paper argues for the immediate use of Kansei engineering to help deal with the chaotic situation of poorly implemented and disconnected technologies. A theoretical criticism of the current industrial capitalism, together with the promotion of a new post‐industrial form of capitalism, lays the foundation for an explanation of how this transition can be achieved through a proper understanding of Kansei. A detailed explanation of the interactive production system apparel demonstrates the benefits to both manufacturers and consumers. The paper concludes that the application to apparel is just one of the many potential applications to improving the lifestyle and enjoyment of individuals in the entire society.
Improvement of drape simulation speed using constrained fabric collision
Authors: Hwan Sul In , Jin Kang Tae
Published: March 2004

Garment is generally a 3D object made of 2D fabric. So, it is necessary to predict the garment drape shape when designing fabric patterns. There are several methods to simulate fabric drape, but the calculation times are long for practical use. The bottleneck of the drape simulation is the collision detection between fabric and human body and self contact detection of the fabric itself. We assumed that the fabric collision occurs only locally to reduce the number of possible collisions. We made the fabric patterns into finite elements and each element was given a local area number so that only elements within certain area can contact with other ones.
Smart clothing: a new life
Authors: Van Langenhove Lieva , Hertleer Carla
Published: March 2004

After technical textiles and functional textiles, smart textiles came into force a few years back. The term “smart textiles” covers a broad range. The application possibilities are only limited by our imagination and creativity. Hence it is not simple for the readers of the many articles that have been published to distinguish where reality ends and where fiction begins. In this paper, it is further explored what smart textiles precisely mean. In a second part, an analysis is made of the possibilities, the state of affairs and the need for further research, including research in the Department of Textiles at the Ghent University (Belgium).
Developing portable acoustic arrays on a large‐scale e‐textile substrate
Authors: Grant E. , Luthy K.A. , Muth J.F. , Mattos L.S. , Braly J.C. , Seyam A. , Ghosh T. , Dhawan A. , Natarajan K.
Published: March 2004

This research deals with the production of electronic textiles (e‐textiles) demonstrators. Initially, the research dealt with the creation of 4×5 microphone array on a large area conformal textile substrate. Once the interface electronics were connected to the 4×5 microphone array, this system became an effective acoustic array. Here, a new acoustic eight microphone array design has been designed, fabricated and tested. Changes were made to improve microphone array performance, and to optimize the associated software for data capture and analysis. This new design was based on UC‐Berkeley mote microcomputer technology. The mote‐based system addresses the issue of scaling acoustic arrays, to allow for distributing microphones over large‐areas, and to allow performance comparisons to be made with the original 4×5 microphone acoustic array.
Thermal regulating functional performance of PCM garments
Authors: Bo‐an Ying , Yi‐Lin Kwok , Yi Li , Chap‐Yung Yeung , Qing‐wen Song
Published: March 2004

By analysing the physical mechanisms of heat and moisture transfer through textiles with PCM and carrying out the test of thermal regulating functional performance of PCM garment in climate chamber, the thermal regulating functional performance of PCM garments have been analysed and discussed in this paper. Both numerical solution and experimental results show that during the phase change process the rate of temperature rise of garment with higher PCM add‐on level was lower than that with less PCM. From theoretical analysis and experiment curve, the parameter of k was proposed and discussed, which is used to represent the rate of temperature change and the thermal regulating functional performance of PCM garments. It has been demonstrated that the higher the PCM add‐on level contained in the garment, the lower is the value of k, and slower the temperature raised in the garment, the higher is the effect of thermal regulating.
The mechanics of plain woven fabrics
Authors: Leaf G.A.V.
Published: March 2004

A procedure for estimating the low‐strain mechanical properties of plain woven fabrics is presented. A quantity prominent in the equations is the contact length at the yarn cross‐over, which has not been estimated till the moment. A consideration of Peirce's rigid thread model leads to a method of estimating the contact lengths from a knowledge of the fabric sett and yarn crimps. A comparison of the theory with some experimental results is given in this paper.
Fibrous assemblies: modeling/computer simulation of compressional behaviour
Authors: Roberts William W. , Beil Norman B.
Published: March 2004

We develop a model to relate the mechanical properties of individual fibers and how they are arranged in a fibrous assembly to the bulk properties of the fibrous assembly. The model allows the prediction of the bulk properties of the fibrous assembly during compression from the physical properties of its component individual fibers, considering both static and kinetic friction at contacts between fibers. Computer simulations are run for several cases with specific friction conditions applied in order to compare predictions of this model with experimental results and with van Wyk's theory of the uniaxial compression of an initially random fibrous assembly. These computer simulations demonstrate a reasonable ability to predict the undetermined constant K in van Wyk's theory. The computer simulations also show a significantly greater number of fiber‐fiber contacts being formed than theories based only on the diameter and arrangement of fibers have predicted. The predicted contacts have a wide range of contact forces, while only a small percentage of them do not slip. The model may be used to investigate phenomena associated with the compression of fibrous assemblies, such as fiber crimp, hysteresis, and orientation effects.
Processing and quality of cashmere tops for ultrafine wool worsted blend fabrics
Authors: McGregor B.A. , Postle R.
Published: March 2004

This study has focussed on three main areas. First, an evaluation of the physical attributes of cashmere tops available to commercial spinners; second, the influence of processing variables on the efficiency of producing cashmere tops from raw Australian cashmere; and third, the influence of design of cashmere ultrafine wool blends on the fibre curvature of tops. Testing the physical attributes of cashmere tops from traditional and new sources of supply, was followed by statistical analyses based on factors of origin, processor and other determinants. The analyses demonstrated important processor effects and also that cashmere from different origins shows commercially important variations in fibre attributes. It was possible to efficiently produce Australian cashmere tops with Hauteur, tenacity, extension, softness and residual guard hairs quality attributes equivalent to those observed in the best cashmere tops. The blending of cashmere with wool resulted in a reduction of the mean fibre curvature of the blend compared with the unblended wool. The present work demonstrated that the fibre curvature properties of blended low crimp ultrafine wool tops were closer to the properties of pure cashmere tops than were tops made from blended standard high crimp ultrafine wool. The attributes of textiles made from the relatively rare Australian low curvature cashmere could enhance the marketability of both Australian cashmere and low curvature wool.
Tactile sensory analysis applied to silk/cotton knitted fabrics
Authors: Chollakup R. , Sinoimeri A. , Philippe F. , Schacher L. , Adolphe D.
Published: March 2004

Currently, textile industrialists have to consider the sensory aspect in their design and manufacturing specifications. To describe the sensory quality of products, sensory evaluation does exist and is widely used in the food and cosmetics areas. These methodologies have been successfully transposed to tactile evaluation of textile fabrics for different textile materials: plain weave fabrics with different post‐treatments and non‐woven are used for medical gowns and drapes. In our study, we have asked our trained panel composed of nine assessors to score a list of already defined sensory attributes for different knitted fabrics made of silk/cotton blends. The spinning parameters which have been changed are the type of silk fibre (three types), blending techniques – intimate and draw frame blending – and the silk content. All these parameters can more or less influence the tactile perception of the final knitted fabric. In this paper, the results of our analysis are presented and discussed in order to answer questions such as: “Are these two fabrics different?”, “What kind of difference is there?” or “What are the sensory characteristics of these fabrics?”. The concrete steps of the evaluation will be presented and specifically the training and performance analysis of the panellists who were obliged to adapt their evaluation procedures to small knitted samples. The protocols used to carry out fabrics description and comparisons when all assessors cannot evaluate all the products under study will also be detailed.
The challenge of changing from empirical craft to engineering design
Authors: Hearle John W.S.
Published: March 2004

Textiles have developed high‐quality materials on the basis of highly developed but empirical craft skills. The second half of the 20th century resulted in many academic papers on the analysis of the applied mechanics of fibre assemblies. However, although these researches led to useful qualitative insights, there was almost no quantitative application by the industry. Several factors indicate that the time is now ripe for a change to an engineering design culture. There are major challenges in dealing with assemblies of millions of fibres, with non‐linear, visco‐elastic‐plastic mechanical properties, in anisotropic structures subject to large deformations and strains. The paper describes two approaches to accessible model: fibre rope modelling and TechText CAD. The most useful methodology for modelling yarns, woven fabrics and fabric buckling, is discussed. The priority is to develop a software that industry uses, thus setting up a creative interchange, which will lead to advances.
Modelling strategies for liquid spreading in medical absorbents
Authors: Landeryou M. , Eames I. , Frampton A. , Cottenden A.
Published: March 2004

The use of validated computational models to predict liquid spreading in fibrous materials is an important tool for understanding and optimising the function of absorbent products. The aim of this paper is to review these modelling strategies and their limitations. Experimental methods to find the closure relationships required as an input into Richards' equation (which describes the fluid transport in porous materials) are discussed. The computational models are validated against the detailed laboratory experiments of the flow of fluid from sources on inclined or horizontal homogeneous fibrous sheets, and are extended to inhomogeneous layered structures. Recent progress towards modelling simple incontinence products is described.
The study of pressure delivery for hypertrophic scar treatment
Authors: Macintyre Lisa , Baird Margot , Weedall Phil
Published: March 2004

Pressure garments have been used prophylactically and to treat hypertrophic scars, resulting from serious burns, since the early 1970s. They are custom‐made from elastic fabrics by commercial producers and occupational therapists. However, no clear scientifically established method has ever been published for their manufacture from powernet fabrics. The earlier work identified the most commonly used fabrics and construction methods for the production of pressure garments by occupational therapists in UK burn units. These methods have now been evaluated by measuring the pressures delivered to both cylinder models and to human limbs using I‐scan® pressure sensors. The effect of cylinder/limb circumference and the effects of the fabric and reduction factor used in pressure garment construction on pressures exerted have now been established. These measurements confirm the limitations of current pressure garment construction methods used in UK hospitals. These results were also used to evaluate the Laplace law for the prediction of interface pressures.
Design of textile scaffolds for tissue engineering: the use of biodegradable yarns
Authors: Ekevall E. , Golding C. , Mather R.R.
Published: March 2004

The emergence of tissue engineering has led to the development of three‐dimensional cellular scaffolds that reconstruct the tissue structure. Research into the use of biodegradable materials in scaffolds has grown; the aim is that when tissue growth is complete, the scaffold degrades completely. This research aims to design novel scaffolds and investigates biodegradable polylactide (PLA) yarns; in particular, poly(l‐lactide) (PLLA) yarns extruded in‐house. To study degradation and determine the effect on the biodegradable yarns/textiles, they were immersed in phosphate buffer solution (PBS, pH=7.4) for various durations at 37°C. Mechanical properties were evaluated on tensile testing rigs and they were observed, before and after the immersion period. Cells were then cultured (37°C, 5 per cent carbon dioxide in air) on the textiles for 1 week. As expected, after immersion, the yarns exhibit a decrease in elongation and tenacity. Initial results indicate that the yarn properties influence cell attachment and spreading.
Material design and textile science for specialty textiles technologies
Authors: Matsuo T.
Published: March 2004

The relation of material design and textile science to the technologies of textile specialty products are discussed. Concept of material design is explained. The method of differential total material design is presented with an application example. The relation of material design to specialty textiles technology is analyzed. The relation of textile science to material design in terms of specialty textiles technology is also discussed. Some examples of scientific knowledge in terms of data base for material design are presented.
Folding algorithms and mechanisms synthesis for robotic ironing
Authors: Dai J.S. , Taylor P.M. , Liu H. , Lin H.
Published: March 2004

Automating domestic ironing is a challenge to the robotic community, particularly in terms of modelling and advanced mechanism design. This paper investigates the ironing process, its relevant folding algorithms and analysis techniques, presents the advanced mechanism synthesis and introduces cross‐disciplinary research. It summarises the second part of the results of a technology study carried out under an EPSRC grant “A Feasibility Study into Robotic Ironing”, and proposes new techniques in developing a folding and unfolding algorithm and in developing a task‐oriented mechanism synthesis for robotic ironing.
Study of relationship between fabric elastic potential and garment appearance quality
Authors: Geršak J.
Published: March 2004

Garment is presumably the only product where, in the tailoring process, a two‐dimensional fabric is converted into a three‐dimensional shape without indirect physical remodelling of the material. Such a remodelling is directly associated with the physical behaviour of fabric structure, which can be treated as a very complex system owing to its constructional properties. Fabrics are non‐homogeneous and anisotropic materials. Very small stresses on textile materials cause extremely large strains, so that the deformations occurring are highly non‐linear. Non‐linear properties of textile materials and thus, connected deformations at low stresses are closely related to the elastic potential and influence fabric draping and fitting of the garment manufactured. For this purpose, the relationship between fabric elastic potential, as an important property under lower tensile load, and garment appearance quality, will be investigated. The investigation is subdivided into two parts. The first part presents the study of relationship between the elastic potential and particular mechanical properties of fabrics, whereas the second part of the investigation is concerned with studying the influence of fabric elastic potential on the drapeability, respectively, appearance quality of the garment manufactured.
Design of the system for prediction of fabric behaviour in garment manufacturing processes
Authors: Pavlinić D.Z. , Geršak J.
Published: March 2004

The study of fabric behaviour during its transformation from a two‐dimensional (2D) product into a three‐dimensional (3D) article of clothing is presented in this paper. Actual fabric transformation into a 3D article of clothing occurs in sewing processes, where the fabric is exposed to different mechanical loads and behaves accordingly. Fabric behaviour responses as an outcome of the mechanical loads to which it has been exposed, as well as their correlation with the parameters of the analysed fabric mechanical properties are investigated from this point of view. The system was designed for fabric behaviour prediction in garment manufacturing processes, based on wide fabric behaviour study. The ORANGE software tool used incorporates a lot of machine learning methods. On the basis of the input data (the parameters of mechanical properties) and input knowledge (fabric behaviour responses), it offers the prediction of fabric behaviour in garment manufacturing processes for the fabric selected.
Design and engineering challenges for digital ink‐jet printing on textiles
Authors: Dehghani A. , Jahanshah F. , Borman D. , Dennis K. , Wang J.
Published: March 2004

This paper will review digital ink‐jet printing on textiles and the advantages it offers to textile industry and consumers in comparison with conventional printing. The paper also reports on some of the results of a large project, which has been undertaken in the University of Leeds to address a number of issues concerning the problems associated with this technique. One of the important issues associated with digital ink‐jet printing on textiles is speed and reliability, as this has commercial implications for the industry. The research carried out in Leeds has addressed this problem and solutions are proposed which will be covered in detail in this paper. Further research has also been carried out to establish the issues surrounding digital ink‐jet printing and print quality when different types of designs are being printed. The paper will address the results of this research on quality assessment of digital ink‐jet printing on textiles.
Colour specification at the design to production interface
Authors: Oulton David P. , Young Tara
Published: March 2004

This paper describes how the communication of colour specifications between designers and technical production personnel has been improved using calibrated colour and digital networking. The electronic colour communication system known as “Imagemaster”™ is described in which both colour and texture are quantified by calibrated variables. Colour is calibrated by reference to CIE colour co‐ordinates. Imagemaster also uses and if necessary generates a reflectance curve for each object on the screen for use as a production colour specification. A novel colorimetric model of textile textures based on image content is described, which can be used to predict the independent effect of texture as a distinct component of overall colour appearance. Close electronic collaboration between all those contributing to design, product development and production is described. Savings in the complexity, cost and lead‐time for achieving correct colour and technical specifications are reported.
Handling evaluated by visual information to consider web‐consumers
Authors: Kazuya Sasaki , Naomi Ikeda , Hiroko Shimizu
Published: March 2004

As the Internet has wide use, it is expected that the opportunities of buying fabrics at online shops will increase. Can Web‐consumers catch and evaluate the texture and handling of the fabrics correctly? The aim of this study is to obtain fundamental data for evaluation of the handling of fabrics by visual sensation. Empirical knowledge is important for the evaluation. A questionnaire about the knowledge and image of the fabrics and the experience of buying fabrics at online shops was carried out. As for the handling of fabrics by visual sensation, sensory inspections were performed on 13 fabrics using the Semantic Differential method. As a result, it was difficult to evaluate the handling by visual sensation from fabrics' pictures on a computer. Though it was difficult, if the images of fabrics have been established earlier, the handling can be caught by visual information.
Heme as an optical probe of a conformational transition of ovine recPrP
Authors: Pato Christine , Célier Chantal , Rezaei Human , Grosclaude Jeanne , Marden Michael C.
Published: March 2004

The prion protein occurs as a globular domain and a leading fragment whose structure is not well‐defined. For the ovine species, all of the tryptophan residues are in the initial fragment, while the globular domain is rich in tyrosine residues. Using heme as a spectroscopic probe, we have studied the recombinant prion protein before and after a temperature‐induced conformational change. As for most heme proteins, the absorption spectrum of heme‐CO displays a red shift upon binding to the protein, and both the Y and W fluorescence are highly quenched. Flash photolysis kinetics of the PrP–heme‐CO complex shows a low yield for the bimolecular phase, indicating a pocket around the hemes. By comparing the holoprotein and the truncated sequence corresponding to the globular domain, the stoichiometry was determined to be five hemes for the globular domain and two hemes for the leading fragment. At high temperature, the hemes are released; upon cooling, only two hemes bind, and only the tryptophan fluorescence is quenched; this would indicate that the globular domain has formed a more compact structure, which is inert with respect to the hydrophobic probe. The final state of polymerization is perturbed if the synthetic peptide “N3” (PrP residues 142–166, which include the first helix) is added to the prion protein solution; the temperature cycle no longer reduces the number of heme binding sites. This would indicate that the peptide may alter or inhibit the polymer formation.
Sites of interaction between SecA and the chaperone SecB, two proteins involved in export
Authors: Randall Linda L. , Crane Jennine M. , Liu Gseping , Hardy Simon J.S.
Published: March 2004

SecB, a small tetrameric cytosolic chaperone in Escherichia coli, facilitates the export of precursor poly‐peptides by maintaining them in a nonnative conformation and passing them to SecA, which is a peripheral member of the membrane‐bound translocation apparatus. It has been proposed by several laboratories that as SecA interacts with various components along the export pathway, it undergoes conformational changes that are crucial to its function. Here we report details of molecular interactions between SecA and SecB, which may serve as conformational switches. One site of interaction involves the final C‐terminal 21 amino acids of SecA, which are positively charged and contain zinc. The C terminus of each subunit of the SecA dimer makes contact with the flat β‐sheet that is formed by each dimer of the SecB tetramer. Here we demonstrate that a second interaction exists between the extreme C‐terminal α‐helix of SecB and a site on SecA, as yet undefined but different from the C terminus of SecA. We investigated the energetics of the interactions by titration calorimetry and characterized the hydrodynamic properties of complexes stabilized by both interactions or each interaction singly using sedimentation velocity centrifugation.
Tissue transglutaminase acylation: Proposed role of conserved active site Tyr and Trp residues revealed by molecular modeling of peptide substrate binding
Authors: Chica Roberto A. , Gagnon Paul , Keillor Jeffrey W. , Pelletier Joelle N.
Published: March 2004

Transglutaminases (TGases) catalyze the cross‐linking of peptides and proteins by the formation of γ‐glutamyl‐ε‐lysyl bonds. Given the implication of tissue TGase in various physiological disorders, development of specific tissue TGase inhibitors is of current interest. To aid in the design of peptide‐based inhibitors, a better understanding of the mode of binding of model peptide substrates to the enzyme is required. Using a combined kinetic/molecular modeling approach, we have generated a model for the binding of small acyl‐donor peptide substrates to tissue TGase from red sea bream. Kinetic analysis of various N‐terminally derivatized Gln‐Xaa peptides has demonstrated that many CBz‐Gln‐Xaa peptides are typical in vitro substrates with KM values between 1.9 mM and 9.4 mM, whereas Boc‐Gln‐Gly is not a substrate, demonstrating the importance of the CBz group for recognition. Our binding model of CBz‐Gln‐Gly on tissue TGase has allowed us to propose the following steps in the acylation of tissue TGase. First, the active site is opened by displacement of conserved W329. Second, the substrate Gln side chain enters the active site and is stabilized by hydrophobic interaction with conserved residue W236. Third, a hydrogen bond network is formed between the substrate Gln side chain and conserved residues Y515 and the acid‐base catalyst H332 that helps to orient and activate the γ‐carboxamide group for nucleophilic attack by the catalytic sulphur atom. Finally, an H‐bond with Y515 stabilizes the oxyanion formed during the reaction.