bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Sex- and tissue-specific expression of odorant-binding proteins and chemosensory proteins in adults of the scarab beetle Hylamorpha elegans (Burmeister) (Coleoptera: Scarabaeidae)
Authors: González-González Angélica , Rubio-Meléndez María E. , Ballesteros Gabriel I. , Ramírez Claudio C. , Palma-Millanao Rubén
Published: June 2019

In this study, we addressed the sex- and tissue-specific expression patterns of odorant-binding proteins (OBPs) and chemosensory proteins (CSPs) in Hylamorpha elegans (Burmeister), an important native scarab beetle pest species from Chile. Similar to other members of its family, this scarab beetle exhibit habits that make difficult to control the pest by conventional methods. Hence, alternative ways to manage the pest populations based on chemical communication and signaling (such as disrupting mating or host finding process) are highly desirable. However, developing pest-control methods based on chemical communication requires to understand the molecular basis for pheromone recognition/chemical perception in this species. Thus, with the aim of discovering olfaction-related genes, we obtained the first reference transcriptome assembly of H. elegans. We used different tissues of adult beetles from males and females: antennae and maxillary palps, which are well known for embedded sensory organs. Then, the expression of predicted odorant-binding proteins (OBPs) and chemosensory proteins (CSPs) was analyzed by qRT-PCR. In total, 165 transcripts related to chemoperception were predicted. Of these, 16 OBPs, including one pheromone-binding protein (PBP), and four CSPs were successfully amplified by qRT-PCR. All of these genes were differentially expressed in the sensory tissues with respect to the tibial tissue that was used as a control. The single predicted PBP found was highly expressed in the antennal tissues, particularly in males, while several OBPs and one CSP showed male-biased expression patterns, suggesting that these proteins may participate in sexual recognition process. In addition, a single CSP was expressed at higher levels in female palps than in any other studied condition, suggesting that this CSP would participate in oviposition process. Finally, all four CSPs exhibited palp-biased expression while mixed results were obtained for the expression of the OBPs, which were more abundant in the palps than in the antennae. These results suggest that these chemoperception proteins would be interesting novel targets for control of H. elegans, thus providing a theoretical basis for further studies involving new pest control methods.
Resurrection of Indian Agriculture through Revolutionary Innovations of Science and Technology
Authors: Jena Suchismita , Bardhan Kirti
Published: June 2019

Aim: The manuscript discussed on current and future challenges of Indian agriculture and recent innovations of science and technologies to achieve increased productivity, profitability and sustainability for Indian agriculture.

Background: Agriculture is the most important sector of Indian economy, but after involvement of more than half of the workforce in this sector, the contribution towards national GDP is still declining, due to the prevalence of the challenges like lower productivity, depleting resources, biotic and abiotic stresses, uncertainty in climate, higher yield gaps, and low farmers income.

Data Sources: Data sets and policy papers are from Government organizations and research articles from referred journals were used.

Conclusion: With the use and adaptation of revolutionary innovations, Indian agriculture can reform and overcome the limitation of low resource use efficiency, biotic and abiotic stresses, and post-harvest losses.
Calcified Bilateral Ovarian Fibroma in a 15 Year Old Female: Case Report and Literature Review
Authors: Adesina Alaba Moses , Imaralu John Osaigbovoh , Yusuf Adebola Olukayode , Ajani Mustapha Akanji
Published: June 2019

Aim: To highlight the potential for misdiagnosis of ovarian fibromas and need for careful evaluation especially when fertility altering decisions need to be taken in the young adolescent.

Presentation of Case: The authors here review literature and present the case of a 15 year old pre-menarchal patient with bilateral, solid hard ovarian tumors with marked ascites, who had bilateral salpingo-oophorectomy, in whom the tumors turned out to be bilateral calcific ovarian fibromas.

Discussion: Ovarian neoplasia are often misdiagnosed because of their non-specific symptoms and similarities to other pathologies on radiological imaging. The management of adolescents with ovarian tumors poses peculiar challenges as there is need for a balance between the risk of malignancy and the need to preserve fertility. About 1/3 of pelvic masses in pre-pubertal girls are malignant. This fact in addition to the non-specific features of malignancy in this patient such as weight loss, ascites, necessitated further evaluation which included laparotomy.

Conclusion: Ovarian fibromas occur in adolescents and can pose a diagnostic dilemma; a high index of suspicion is required to plan fertility-sparing and cancer-limiting management.
Potentiation of Cisplatin Activity in Colorectal Cancer Cells by Lovastatin
Authors: Alharthi Sameer E.
Published: June 2019

Cisplatin (CIS) is an anticancer drugs used in the treatment of several solid tumors with nephrotoxicity as its main toxic effect. The current study was directed to assess the role of hypolipidemic drug (lovastatin) on sensitization of human colorectal cancer cells (HCT -116) to the action of CIS.

This study assessed the action of lovastatin on sensitization of colorectal cancer cells to       cisplatin by examining cisplatin cytotoxicity, cisplatin cellular uptake and P-glycoprotein (P-gp) activity in presence and absence of Lovastatin 10 and 30 ug/ml. Lovastatin treatment at dose level of 10 and 30 µg/ml potentiated the cytocidal effect of cisplatin against the growth of HCT-116 cells with IC50 7.3 and 5.4 µg/ml, respectively compare to 18 µg/ml after treatment with cisplatin      alone.

Moreover, lovastatin increased the uptake of cisplatin into colorectal cancer cells with marked inhibition of P-glycoprotein pump.

On conclusion Lovastatin treatment increases the antiproliferative activity of cisplatin against the growth of colorectal cancer cells due to inhibition the activity P-glycoprotein pump with marked increase in its cellular uptake.
SCALE EFFECTS OF WAVE TRANSMISSION THROUGH PERMEABLE STRUCTURES
Authors: Delmonte Richard C.
Published: June 2019

The energy in waves which impinge on a porous structure, such as a rubble mound breakwater, is divided into reflected energy, transmitted energy, and the energy dissipated by turbulence within the structure. Numerous studies on various aspects of this problem have been made in the past, the most recent of which are those by Kondo (1970) and Sollitt and Cross (1972). The reader is referred to these latter papers for a literature review and the presentation of the theory of wave transmission through a porous media (also see the previous chapters by these same authors). In the studies by Sollitt and Cross (Chap. 103)> the porous media consisted of crushed stone; whereas, in the tests by Kondo (Chap. 104 ) the porous structure consisted of a lattice of circular cylinders. Experimental data which supplement the data obtained in the tests of Kondo, Sollitt and Cross where made at the University of California on a series of three structures constructed of closely packed uniform spheres. Each structure was installed in turn in a wave channel and subjected to wave action with the wave height being measured both seaward and leeward by resistance-type wave gages. The experimental procedure and results are summarized as follows.
WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION IK ROCKFILL
Authors: McCorquodale John A.
Published: June 2019

Very little literature exists on the subject of unsteady non-Darcy flow in coarse granular media. However, unsteady non-Darcy flow is encountered in a few important hydraulic problems, for example, (a) Wave absorption and transmission in rubble-mound break-waters; (b) Water level fluctuations in the rockfill and filter zones of a dam subjected to wave action; (c) Transmission of floods or tides through rockfill dams and causeways, A mathematical model, to simulate the internal Darcy and/or non-Darcy flow in an embankment subjected to wave action, would permit an improved analysis of: the stability of the embankment; the stability of the armour layer; and the absorption and dissipation of wave energy by the rockfill. Since the internal flow in the embankment and the external wave action are interdependent, a complete model requires the simulation of both of these flows. Such a model would permit the computation of wave run-up and reflection. The present report is limited to the simulation of the unsteady internal flow. Heitner and Housner (4), using a finite element method, have developed an external wave action simulation for Tsunamis. The author is presently attempting to couple the internal and external models.
WAVE REFLECTION AND TRANSMISSION FOR PILE ARRAYS
Authors: Van Weele Brian J. , Herbich John B.
Published: June 2019

A group of piles in a specific geometric pattern may represent a part of a foundation supported by multiple pilings or a porous sea wall or other type of porous coastal structure. "Wave characteristics" of such a structure will include not only the wave transmission but also wave reflection characteristics. Most of the experiments in the past on pile groups were mainly concerned with wave transmission characteristics as a function of wave height and period. The main purpose of these previous studies was to evaluate the absorption characteristics of pile groups, and wave reflections were generally not measured, or evaluated. Variables in this study included wave characteristics such as wave height and length and three types of symmetric pile arrays, two providing clear spacing in the direction of the wave between pile rows and one with a staggered arrangement. The results presented in dimensionless form show the effect of pile geometry and wave steepness on the coefficient of reflection and transmissibility.
EXCITATION OF WAVES INSIDE A BOTTOMLESS HARBOR
Authors: Sakuma Noboru , Buhler Johannes , Wiegel R.L.
Published: June 2019

In planning enclosed areas in the ocean, such as offshore harbors for fishing or recreational boats, one has to consider very carefully the problem of forced seiches due to surface water waves. A number of papers have been written on this problem> but to the authors' knowledge, only one of them has treated the case of an artificial bottomless circular harbor in the open ocean, for which the walls extend only part way to the sea floor. A bottom to such a harbor, which would be expensive, can only be omitted if the effect of its absence on the sea surface inside the harbor is not overly detrimental. C.J.R. Garrett (1970) made a theoretical study of the excitation of waves inside such a harbor for the 'no-entrance' case. The object of this caper is to evaluate experimentally the behavior of the sea surface inside such a harbor, to compare the results with the theoretical values obtained by Garrett, and to extend the observations to the case for which there is an entrance to the harbor.
LAND USE AS A FACTOR IN COASTAL WATER QUALITY
Authors: McGauhey P.H.
Published: June 2019

Recognition of coastal and estuarine waters as a part of the overall water resources of a nation is a development that became evident only in quite recent years in the United States. To a significant degree it is associated with an aroused public concern for the quality of something currently described loosely as "the environemnt" - a concern which initially reached a critical mass in about the year 1969. To be sure, the oceans have always fascinated men of all sorts from adventurers to scientists, but the emergence of a broad public interest in the quality of ocean water, particularly in the coastal zone, is the result of several factors, not all of which are scientifically defensible. One such factor is the notion that the oceans are teeming with life which may well become man's final source of food when he has overwhelmed by sheer numbers the physical and biological carrying capacity of the land. Such an estimate of the potential of the sea seems to have been obtained by multiplying the volume of the oceans by the biomass concentration typical of the continental shelves. That it is a vast exaggeration in no way detracts from its potential to energize public reaction. However, the truth that aquatic life is most abundant in the coastal zones, and the prospect that man must manage this zone in a better manner if that life is to continue to contribute to his well being, only makes it the more important that the quality of coastal waters be a matter of concern and of purposeful management. To this end a considerable degree of public overestimation of the role of the sea in sustaining human life is a force that can be harnessed to productive programs of intelligent action. In fact, an appreciable amount of purely emotional concern for such catchwords as "ecosystems," "endangered species," "habitat,1,1 etc. can be tolerated and often used productively without any debating of its validity as long as it does not impose a serious constraint upon society without generating any corresponding benefit to either man or his fellow creatures.
A NUMERICAL MODEL OF THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER
Authors: Prandle David
Published: June 2019

A one-dimensional numerical model of a 340 mile section of the St. Lawrence River has been formulated to study tidal propagation. For a more detailed study of the flow distribution in a localised section of the river a two-dimensional model was used. A half mile square grid was used to schematise an area of approximately 20 miles long by 15 miles wide. This two-dimensional model was embodied within the one-dimensional model to permit a free interaction of flow across the boundaries. For the one-dimensional case, a comparison of model and prototype results is included for both elevation and velocity. For the two-dimensional model a comparison of flow distribution was made by using field results obtained from photographing ice movement and from drogue movement. To interpret the results of the two-dimensional model into a simple method of flow visualisation, use was made of animation techniques. A movie film was made that demonstrates both tidal rise and fall and the associated horizontal velocities. Elevation was reproduced by use of varying shades of coloured paper to simulate contours, velocities were represented by simulating drogue movement to produce smoke streaks.
THE ONE-DIMENSIONAL WAVE SPECTRA AT LIMITED FETCH
Authors: Mitsuyasu Hisashi
Published: June 2019

The data for the spectra of wind-generated waves measured in a laboratory tank and in a bay are analyzed using the similarity theory of Kitaigorodski, and the one-dimensional spectra of fetch-limited wind waves are determined from the data. The combined field and laboratory data cover such a wide range of dimensionless fetch F (= gF/u2 ) as F : 102 ~ 10 . The fetch relations for the growthes of spectral peak frequency u)m and of total energy E of the spectrum are derived from the proposed spectra, which are consistent with those derived directly from the measured spectra.
THE SCHEMATIZATION FOR TIDAL COMPUTATIONS IN CASE OF VARIABLE BOTTOM SHAPE
Authors: Dronkers J.J.
Published: June 2019

Mathematical and physical methods can be applied for tidal studies. After general considerations on these methods, some practical aspects of tidal computations are discussed, in particular the schematization for tidal computations in case of variable bottom shape in shallow coastal waters. The relation with the coefficient of friction is dealt with. A combined one- and two dimensional tidal computation is considered. Also an example is given of the determination of the coefficient of friction in a very shallow region; the variations, which are found in this practical case are discussed. 1. General considerations on the application of mathematical and physical methods for tidal studies. Tidal problems may be solved by means of mathematical or physical models. Both kinds of models are approximations of the reality; in some respects in a different way.
COMPUTER CONTROL AND DATA ACQUISITION OF A TIDAL MODEL
Authors: Funke E.R.
Published: June 2019

A large tidal model of the St. Lawrence River covering the region from Montreal to lie du Bic is connected directly to a mini computer for data acquisition and control of the tidal boundary. Some of the more important concepts for the design and operation of a computer based system for this application are described. Details of an adaptive feedback controller for diurnal tides are given. A 16 mm film (N.R.C.-Division of Mechanical Engineering, film no. HYP 620, same title) describes the instrumentation and operation of the model. A report (N.R.C.-Division of Mechanical Engineering, Report No. MH-110, same title) provides further details of this system.
MATHEMATICAL AND HYDRAULIC MODELS OF TIDAL WAVES
Authors: Sundermann Jurgen , Vollmers Hans
Published: June 2019

A systematical comparison between experiments in hydraulic models and numerical computations for the case of the propagation of tidal waves in schematic estuaries is carried out. It is the aim of the investigations to present the advantages and disadvantages, the possibilities and limitations of the two models. The results show, generally, a fair agreement between measured and computed quantities even in the case of the occurance of horizontal eddies within the fluid.
ELBE TIDAL MODEL WITH MOVABLE BED
Authors: Vollmers Hans , Giese Egon
Published: June 2019

The Bundesanstalt filr Wasserbau (BAW) was charged to investigate an estuary tidal model of the Elbe-river (North Sea). The model, fitted with a movable bed, serves for special research with regard to suitable actions for the enlargement and maintenance of the main navigable channel in the sea area. Because in tidal estuaries the interaction of fluid and solid material is extremely unknown, the investigation was undertaken to find out the arising morphological changes, only caused by tidal currents, considering structure or dredging works present or planned in prototype. The procedure seems advantageous and a better way as speculative interpretations of sediment movements, derived from flow velocities in a fixed bed model. The horizontal scale of the model is 1:800, the vertical scale 1:100. After basic considerations as similarity, hydrology, morphology, respectively, specifications of the modelling technique are given and finally some test results are discussed.
WIND STRESS ON A COASTAL WATER SURFACE
Authors: Hsu S.A.
Published: June 2019

Simultaneous measurements of horizontal wind velocity above the water surface, air and water temperature difference, and water level were made during the summer of 1971 at an exposed field site off the northwest coast of Florida. Three identical vertical arrays of six-cup anemometers were used; they were located in the surf zone, in the area between the inner and the outer bars, and on the outer slope of the outer bar. The distances of these three stations from the mean shoreline were approximately 30, 130, and 230 m. Mean water depths were 1.5, 4.3, and 5.0 m. Analysis of the profile data under adiabatic and onshore wind conditions indicates that better than 90 percent of the valid wind profile measurements are logarithmic. It was found from the nearly fifteen hundred 15-minute logarithmic wind profiles that the shear velocity U* was not a linear function of wind speed, as is usually assumed in coastal applications, but had a functional relationship with velocity at 10 m or U±Qm (from 0.5 to 8,5 m/sec), such that U* =0.37 U10m2/3. Comparison with similar investigations in deeper water and oceanic regions was also made.
SIMULTANEOUS DATA SYSTEM FOR INSTRUMENTING THE SHELF
Authors: Lowe Robert L. , Inman Douglas L. , Brush Richard M.
Published: June 2019

A system, designed to give maximum flexibility and portability, has been developed to collect wave, current and other physical data within the dynamic environment from the surf zone to the edge of the shelf. The system consists of a radio-linked shore station, housed in a mobile van and as many as six shelf stations mounted in bottom referencing spars. A shelf station can be deployed from a small boat with minimum diver time. The ease of deployment of the shelf stations coupled with the mobile self-contained shore station, allows the use of a modern data acquisition system, and rapid deployment of sensors, for the field study of remote coastal areas. Each of the shelf stations is designed to accomodate as many as fifteen sensors. All simultaneous sensor outputs are digitized and transmitted by radio to the mobile shore station, where the received signals are processed and selected for recording on strip charts or digital magnetic tapes for computer analyses. Very high sampling rates and a real time system are used to insure precise time correlation between all data channels including those from separate shelf stations. A single shelf station would transmit data from an array of wave sensors, thus providing continuous wave climate including the two dimensional wave spectra. Some different combinations of shelf station ensembles are shown.
AIRY WAVE THEORY AND BREAKER HEIGHT PREDICTION
Authors: Komar Paul D. , Gaughan Michael K.
Published: June 2019

Using a critical value for Yt> = H./ h. as a wave breaking criterion, where Hb and hb are respectively the wave breaker height and depth, applying Airy wave theory, and assuming conservation of the wave energy flux, one obtains 1/5 2 2/5 Hb = k g (TH. ) relating Hb to the wave period T and to the deep-water wave height H^ . Three sets of laboratory data and one set of field data yield k = 0.39 for the dimensionless coefficient. The relationship, based on Airy wave theory and empirically fitted to the data, is much more successful in predicting wave breaker heights than is the commonly used equation of Munk, based on solitary wave theory. In addition, the relationship is applicable over the entire practical range of wave steepness values.
MEASUREMENT OF BED SHEAR STRESS UNDER WAVES
Authors: Riedel H.P. , Kamphuis J.W. , Brebner A.
Published: June 2019

Shear stress measurements on both smooth and sand roughened beds were carried out in an oscillating water tunnel using a flexurally supported shear plate. The range of simulated wave boundary layers covered practically any situation possible in the field or laboratory. In the laminar range good agreement is obtained with the theoretical shear stress calculated from first order wave theory. However, in the turbulent flow regimes the experimental data indicates that theory results in an overestimate of the shear force by 20-50%. Limits of laminar, smooth turbulent and rough turbulent flow regimes are determined and it appears that the rough turbulent flow regime may itself be subdivided into two sections, each having different turbulence characteristics.
HYDRAULICS AND SEDIMENTARY STABILITY OF COASTAL INLETS
Authors: O'Brien M.P. , Dean R.G.
Published: June 2019

A method is presented for investigating the stability of coastal inlets against closure due to transport and deposition of sand in the inlet cross-section. The method utilizes earlier contributions by: (1) Keulegan representing the hydraulics of inlets, (2) O'Brien which describes an equilibrium relationship between the cross-sectional area of an inlet and the bay tidal prism, and (3) Escoffier which relates to the stability of an inlet under changes in conditions which tend to close or enlarge an inlet. A "stability index" is defined which incorporates the buffer storage area available in the inlet cross-section, prior to the onset of closure and also includes the capability of the inlet to transport excess sand from its cross-section. In order to apply the method, geometric and hydraulic data representing the inlet are necessary; the minimum data required include a survey of the inlet throat cross-section and the lag between high (or low) water in the ocean and the following slack water in the inlet. In addition, it is necessary to conduct measurements or make assumptions concerning the minor and gradual hydraulic loss coefficients. Based on assumed depositional patterns in the inlet, the method is applied to five real inlets and the stability indices are presented.
SAN FRANCISCO BAR DREDGE MATERIAL DISPOSAL
Authors: Ecker Richard M. , Sustar John F.
Published: June 2019

Studies were conducted on San Francisco Bar in June 1971 and February 1972 to monitor dredge material disposal. The purpose of the study was to determine the effects of dredging and material disposal on the physical and biological environment and to develop dredging procedures and disposal sites to mitigate possible adverse effects.. This paper presents the results of the material dispersion portion of the study including bottom deposition, current measurements and aerial photography. The biological studies and water quality monitoring are not presented.
SEDIMENT TRANSPORT BY WAVE ACTION
Authors: Einstein H.A.
Published: June 2019

This paper summarizes the results of a continuing study at the hydraulic laboratory at the University of California at Berkeley on this subject, which is supported by the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) and which has resulted over the years in the Theses of Huon ti (1954), M. Manohar (1955), G. Kalkanis (1957, 1963), M. M. Abou-Seida (1965), M. M. Das (1968) and is at this time being continued by T. C. Mac Donald. All these researchers have greatly contributed to the success of this work while the author was mostly responsible for the continuity of the study. The aim of the study was to see if it is possible to establish for the description and prediction of sediment transport by waves a general system of approach similar to that which the author published in 1950 under the title '.'The Bed-Load Function for Sediment Transport in Open Channel Flows". ( It was hoped at the time that many of the basic steps of such a description may at least be similar to those used for uni-directional flow. It became apparent that such similarities of approach were quite feasible; but another difficulty became apparent from the beginning. While in the uni-directional flow many details of the flow, such as velocity distributions, boundary layers and turbulence had been, studied and described previously, such knowledge was almost entirely lacking for wave motion. The first part of the study consisted entirely of hydraulic measurements and of their analysis. In order to determine the necessary scope of such hydraulic studies, the analogy with sediment transport in uni-directional flow was used. Some of the principles governing uni-directional flow transport are: 1. Sediment motion can be divided into bed-load motion or surface creep and suspension. 2. While moving as bed load, the particle weight is to a large part transmitted directly to the nonmoving bed, not to the flow. 3. The rate of bed-load motion is defined by the equilibrium exchange of sediment between the bed-load and the nonmoving bed. 4. This equilibrium gives a direct relationship between the sediment rate and the flow conditions near the bed, including the turbulence. 5. The flow condition near the bed can be predicted for a uni-directional boundary layer as a function of the bed shear and the bed roughness, only.
RATE OP SEDIMENT MOTION USING FLUORESCENT TRACER
Authors: Akadib Abdel-Latif
Published: June 2019

A rational design of coast protection works requires a knowledge of the behaviour of beach under natural conditions. The estimation of the littoral drift rate is thus a necessary preliminary to the analysis of the cause of beach erosion and the evaluation of the effect of projected remedial measures. This study presents a method for estimating the rate of littoral drift along sandy beaches. The derived method is based on the use of fluorescent tracer, and observing the tracer concentration reaching the different profiles along the study zone, as function of location and time of sampling. Steps followed in estimating the rate of littoral drift, using the derived formula, are included in this paper.
THE MEASUREMENT OF OFFSHORE SHINGLE MOVEMENT
Authors: Crickmore M.J. , Waters C.B. , Price W.A.
Published: June 2019

The objective was to obtain quantitative data on the movement of shingle under wave action in water depths of about 10 to 20 m by tracking pebbles tagged with radioactive material. The paper describes the method of tagging, the method of position fixing, and the development of an underwater detection vehicle with a wide field of view. The field tracer tests demonstrated both increased mobility with decreasing depth and the existence of a small landward movement of shingle inshore of a depth of 12 m. Existing predictive data on the threshold of movement under waves, based on the results of previous work in the laboratory, was confirmed.
SEDIMENT BUDGET OF THE LOWER FRASER RIVER
Authors: Tywoniuck Nick
Published: June 2019

The Lower Fraser River, being continually developed for better navigation and larger port- facilities, is an area of active sedimentation. The dynamic processes influenced by river discharge, tides and winds are probably the most important factors in the transport and deposition of sediments in the estuary. The main part of the Fraser Estuary is vertically homogeneous (non-stratified) and the sediments are transported progressively seaward and are accumulated near the limit of net landward flow. The lower estuary is stratified and coarse sediments are trapped near the toe of the salt wedge while the fine sediments are carried seaward with the outflowing river water. The hydrometric and sediment survey of the lower Fraser River are described. Survey results are used in determining the sediment balance of the river reach. In the budget analysis, the river and estuary are divided into four consecutive reaches, the sediment discharges are subdivided to represent about 10 particle size ranges and the balance is then determined for each reach and particle size range. Conclusions are drawn with respect to the sediment transport and depositional characteristics, annual variations, and the agreement between the sediment entering the estuary and the sediment dredged.
FORMS OF EROSION AND ACCRETION ON CAPE COD BEACHES
Authors: Goldsmith Victor , Colonell Joseph M. , Turbide Peter N.
Published: June 2019

Frequent measurements of beach profiles have been made at sixteen areas between Maine and Long Island since September 1965 by members of the Coastal Research Center of the University of Massachusetts. This research effort has resulted in the accumulation of approximately 2000 beach profiles along the New England coastline. The detailed analysis of profiles from Monomoy Island and Nauset Spit on Cape Cod has revealed the following erosion-accretion characteristics: 1. The most active areas of the beach profile in terms of sand transport are at the low-tide, neap high-tide, and spring high-tide zones. The center of the beach face is relatively inactive. 2. An exception to this behavior occurs during severe storms when large volumes of sand are removed from the entire beach face, producing a concave upward profile shape. 3. During periods of relatively low wave activity there is much interaction in terms of sand movement between these three zones, resulting in the formation of distinctive profile shapes. 4. These profile shapes tend to maintain themselves through sand movements which cause the berm to migrate back and forth along the profile. 5. This activity is often accomplished with little or no net sand erosion or accretion to the total profile. These conclusions, combined with additional analyses, indicate that the traditional measurements of total beach width and high tide beach width (i.e., to the berm) are not a reliable indication of sand volume changes on beaches.
EDGE WAVES AND THE LITTORAL ENVIRONMENT
Authors: Bowen Anthony J.
Published: June 2019

Several types of beach features seem to have a rather regular, longshore pattern. This pattern may indeed he sufficiently uniform to be described in terms of a recognisable longshore wavelength. A likely explanation for such features lies in the motion of edge waves, surface waves trapped by refraction to the shoreline. These waves, by themselves or by interaction with the normal, incoming surface waves breaking on the beach, can generate longshore features having a wavelength equal to or half the edge wave wavelength. If a broad spectrum of edge wave modes were present any longshore variation should appear rather irregular. The existence of regular features therefore suggests that a particular edge wave mode is often dominant, the characteristics of the dominant mode depending on the geometry of the nearshore area and the width of the surf zone. Any new, artificial structure stretching seawards provides new boundary conditions, almost certainly altering the characteristic of the edge wave spectra. This is particularly obvious in the case of a regularly spaced structure such as a s'et of groynes. A deeper understanding of the edge wave processes is needed so that the induced changes in the edge wave spectra are the least deleterious or, an intriguing possibility, advantageous.
REVISIONS TO HURRICANE DESIGN WAVE PRACTICES
Authors: Bretschneider Charles L.
Published: June 2019

The 1959 paper "Hurricane Design Wave Practices" (ref. 1) has been widely used in the past for obtaining design wave criteria. Additional wave data and revisions in wave forecasting procedures, including computing techniques, ideas and experience, make it possible to bring these techniques up to date. This paper should be considered also as an extension of the paper "A Non- Dimensional Hurricane Wave Model" (ref. 2) as well as revisions to the 1959 paper (ref. 1). Graphs, formulae and procedures are presented making it possible to calculate the entire deep water wave fields from model hurricane wind fields. The revisions have been applied to the U.S. East and Gulf coasts past historical hurricanes and also to the U.S. Weather Service standard project and probable maximum hurricanes for deep water conditions. The results of these calculations are presented in figures and tables and can serve as inputs for particular locations to calculate design storm surge and design wave criteria over the continental shelf to the coast line, making use of the material in the references listed at the end of this paper.
THE NILE DELTA C0ASTA1 PROTECTIOH PROJECT
Authors: Mobarak Ismail E.
Published: June 2019

The Nile Delta Coast on the Mediterranean Sea was formed through many centuries. The two existing main branches of the River Nile, i.e. Rosetta and Damietta, succeeded over the ages in forming two peninsulas or protrusions in the sea. By the end of the 19th century erosion started at several important points of the coast, causing damages to the national economy, either directly or indirectly. This erosion has increased tremendously during the last decade. Several field and laboratory studies were carried out during the last few years, concentrating on the severely attacked areas, such as Ras-EL-Bar, Burullas, Rosetta,Maadia. Based on the quick field and laboratory studies, remedial constructions are designed for the locations of severe erosion* Groins for Ras-El-Bar with artificial sand feeding and stone pitching and a wall for the Damietta estuary. A large groin for Burullos outlet which developed some advantageous changes even before finishing its execution,, and sea wall for Maadia. All the above projects are discussed and explained. A long term study project was started early in 1971 to collect the data necessary for a better understanding of the problem. The aims of this project are as follows: (1) To determine the historical formation of the Delta and forecasting future changes ; (2) Study the Meteorology and the Hydrodynamics of the area ; hindcasting and starting a new forecasting technique for them; (3) Planning and design of protective constructions for the coast is to be gained. All the above will be based on an extensive field data collection programme, mathematical models and hydraulic scale models. 1409
MEW DESIGNS FOR BEACH PROTECTION STRUCTURES
Authors: Khaskhachikh G.D. , Tsaturiyan G.A. , Shulgin Ya. S.
Published: June 2019

Along some length of the Black Sea coast line there are beach protection structeres largely represented by groins and traverses in conjunction with wave resisting embankment walls. The groins are built of 30 to 100 t concrete blocks and set on a rubble-mound foundation levelled by sea divers. In the course of building and exploitation of these structures, a number of disadvantages have been revealed. These ares - The groin structure is affected by the waves that scour the rubble-mound foundation at the bottom and thereby disturb it. Failures occur more frequently at the head (seaward) part of the groin; - The rubble-mound is concerned with having to perform a great deal of heavy and harmful to health diving job, such as underwater excavation, filling and levelling the stone material, etc.; - The rubble-mound cost and labour involved are estimated to be high.
ICE EFFECTS ON COASTAL STRUCTURES
Authors: Kivisild H.R. , Ransford G.D.
Published: June 2019

Ice effects on coastal structures, and more particularly the maximum forces caused by ice action, depend on a number of factors, such as:- (a) The physical properties of the ice encountered. (b) The thickness of ice formations. (c) The size of these formations, and their motion. (d) The shape and size of the structures concerned. Past history of ice accumulations is important too, not only in relation to ice properties (as when new ice and multiyear ice are found together at the one location), but also for instance when structures become frozen in, or when ice debris accumulates on sloping faces or when ice bustles form around piers. The very considerable difficulties in carrying out insitu experimental work, not only on the overall effects of interest to engineers such as ice thrust on fixed structures, but also on ice properties themselves, mean that there are still large gaps in our knowledge of the subject. Finally, the non-isotropic nature of the naturally occurring ice, and the broad spectrum of ice behaviour under loading (brittle,ductile or, when creep predominates, viscous), contribute still further to the complexity of the subject.
CONSIDERATIONS ON FACTORS IN BREAKWATER MDDEL TESTS
Authors: Ouellet Yvon
Published: June 2019

In the light of tests on breakwater armor units conducted at Laval University on behalf of the Department of Public Works of Canada, a discussion on various factors involved in model tests on breakwater armor units is presented in comparison with previous studies made on the subject. Tests have been carried out on natural stones, tetrapods and mainly dolosse. Various factors whether they pertain to waves or to the structure are analysed in view of the factors resulting from the interaction of both of them, that is stability of the armor units, damage to the structure or run up of the facing. These factors are the ones for which model tests are conducted. The interpretation of results for the given test conditions should not be evaluated without considering possible scale effects. From the analysis of test results presented by different investigators, a need for the standardization of test results became apparent. Recommendations are made concerning the presentation of results for their future use in engineering design. A standard weight of 100 grs with a standard length of 100 cms for model values are proposed to present the results on a diagram showing significant wave height versus damage, where damage should be expressed in terms of the number of units displaced in the area between + the wave height giving 1% damage.
WAVE TRANSMISSION THROUGH PERMEABLE BREAKWATERS
Authors: Sollitt Charles K. , Cross Ralph H.
Published: June 2019

A theory is derived to predict ocean wave reflection and transmission at a permeable breakwater of rectangular cross section. The theory solves for a damped wave component within the breakwater and matches boundary conditions at the windward and leeward breakwater faces to predict the reflected and transmitted wave components. An approximate solution to conventional rubble mound breakwater designs is formulated in terms of an equivalent rectangular breakwater with an additional consideration for wave breaking. Experimental and theoretical results are compared and evaluated.
Complete Proceedings - Single PDF Download
Authors: O'Brien Morrough P.
Published: June 2019

The Canadian Organizing Committee, the Vancouver Executive Committee and the National Research Council of Canada have done a superb job in planning this conference and in carrying out the enormous amount of detail necessary for its realization. On behalf of the Coastal Engineering Research Council, the other participating organizations, and all of theattendees I thank most heartily all who participated in this work.
WAVE FORCES ON PIPELINES
Authors: Al-Kazily M. Fadhil
Published: June 2019

Water waves exert a force on a pipeline which is placed within the zone of wave influence. This force is made up of a periodic force which is composed of a drag and an inertial force, and a non-periodic second order force which acts upward. The coefficients of mass C and drag C as defined by the "Morison equation" were evaluated for many wave and depth conditions and it was found that the coefficients vary with the wave heights, wave length, depth of the cylinder below still water surface, and within the wave cycle.
PRACTICAL SCALING OF COASTAL MODELS
Authors: Kamphuis J.W.
Published: June 2019

In this paper the practical design of coastal mobile bed models is considered. The semi-theoretical approach expressed by the author in earlier publications (9,10,11,12) is extended and used to classify and design coastal models. Fixed bed coastal models are discussed first to form a basis for the argument. Subsequently, mobile bed models are classified according to criteria of dynamic similarity satisfied in their design and scale effects present in their operation. Basic scale laws are next derived for all classifications of coastal models. This is done for both inshore and offshore models, the distinction being brought about by adjusting the velocity scales for unidirectional (and long wave) motion. Time and sediment transport scales are next derived and some well known models are compared. The presence of bedform and model distortion is also treated. The work is compared with that of other authors.
DESIGN OF DISTORTED HARBOR WAVE MODELS
Authors: Whalin R.W. , Chatham C.E.
Published: June 2019

An investigation of errors incurred by scale distortion for fixed-bed harbor wave models has been performed and results of this study applied to the design, construction, and operation of a model of Los Angeles and Long Beach Harbors. Objectives of the model investigation must be clearly prescribed in order that each phenomenon affected by scale distortion can be analyzed. In some cases, if study objectives are too broad, a distorted model may be incompatible with these objectives; however, it will be found that in many circumstances a distorted model will produce valid data with considerable time and cost savings in construction and operation.
ANALYSIS OF AIR-BUBBLE PLUMES
Authors: Ditmars John D. , Cederwall Klas
Published: June 2019

Models are developed to describe the gross behavior of air-bubble plumes generated by point and line sources of air-bubbles released in stagnant water bodies of uniform density. The models predict plume width, velocities, and induced flow rates as a function of elevation above the source. The analysis is confined to the plume mechanics and does not include the horizontal flow created at the surface by the plume. An integral similarity approach, similar to that used for single-phase buoyant plumes, is employed. Governing equations are found by applying conservation of mass, momentum, and buoyancy. The compressibility of the air and the differential velocity between the rising air bubbles and water are introduced in the buoyancy flux equation. Generalized solutions to the normalized governing equations are presented for both point and line sources of air-bubbles. The results of the analyses are compared with existing large-scale experimental data. The comparisons indicate that the models predict the gross behavior of plumes well and yield estimates of the entrainment coefficients and lateral spreading ratios.
NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF OIL SLICK TRANSPORT IN BAYS
Authors: Wang Shen , Hwang Li-San
Published: June 2019

A computer model for simulating oil spreading and transport has been developed. The model can be utilized as a useful tool in providing advance information and thus may guide decisions for an effective response in control and clean-up once an accidental spill occurs. The spreading motion is simulated according to the physical properties of oil and its characteristics at the air-oil-water interfaces. The transport movement is handled by superimposing the spreading with a drift motion caused by winds and tidal currents. By considering an oil slick as a summation of many elementary patches and applying the principle of superposition, the model is capable of predicting the oil size, shape, and movement as a function of time after a spill originates. Field experiments using either cardboard markers or soybean oil to simulate a spill were conducted at the Long Beach Harbor. Computer predictions showed good agreement with the field traces.
OIL SLICK FATE IN A REGION OF STRONG TIDAL CURRENTS
Authors: Drapeau G. , Harrison W. , Bien W. , Leinonen P.
Published: June 2019

This study examines the drifting, spreading and aging of small slicks of crude oil in the middle St. Lawrence Estuary. This region was chosen because it is well documented with field measurements, hydraulic scale models, and mathematical models; and also because it is becoming a strategic area for the development of supertanker ports for 300,000 and possibly 500,000 ton tankers. Two controlled releases of Venezuelan crude (370 and 800 litres) were made in November 1972, as ice began to form in the St. Lawrence Estuary. The experiments were supported by the Canada Centre for Remote Sensing which carried out extensive airborne monitoring. The results indicate that it is impossible either to recover or to disperse small spills of oil in this region of strong tidal currents. Models also predict slick motion poorly. The alternative is to construct slick-drift roses that will indicate areas of expected beaching and assist in deployment of oil-spill clean-up technology.
EXPERIMENTAL STUDIES OF TIDAL FLOW AND DIFFUSION
Authors: Higuchi Haruo , Fukada Tamotsu , Ihara Hiroshi , Hayakawa Norio
Published: June 2019

The paper describes the environmental problem of the Seto Inland Sea of Japan. A number of model studies of tidal flow and effluent diffusion of this sea are presented. In particular the similarity law that has been developed to model turbulent diffusion is delineated.
SIMILARITY CONDITIONS FOR THERMAL-HYDRAULIC MODEL TESTS OF TIDAL ESTUARIES
Authors: Flugge Gerd , Schwarze Horst
Published: June 2019

In connection with the design of proposed nuclear power plants on the Lower Weser River and on the Lower Elbe River in Germany, tidal models were constructed and tests carried out at the Franzius-Institute of the Technical University of Hannover for the purpose of studying the mixing and spreading of the hot water discharge. Thermal-hydraulic models are today still the most reliable method for the prediction of temperature distributions in the total area of temperature increase, especially in tidal regions. Hydraulic models with free surface flow are in general based on the FROUDE scaling lav;. The flow fields in both the hydraulic model and in the prototype show a dynamic similitude when the FROUDE numbers of the flow in the model and in the nature are equal at corresponding points.