bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Racial Differences in HIV Infection and Risk Behaviors among Drug Users in a Low Seroprevalence Area
Authors: Warner Barbara D. , Leukefeld Carl G.
Published: November 2015

While it is well known that the rate of AIDS and HIV for African Americans is considerably higher than it is for whites, both the reasons for this difference and the extent to which racial differences can be generalized to low seroprevalence areas are less clear. Using data collected from a sample of 1393 out-of-treatment chronic drug users in a low seroprevalence area, we examine differences between HIV serostatus of non-Hispanic African Americans (n=907) and non-Hispanic whites (n=231) who agreed to HIV testing. Our results show a significantly higher seropositive rate among African American current injecting drug users and current crack users who have injected drugs. Differences in seropositive rates among crack users who have never injected drugs are non-significant, although the rate is still higher among African Americans. We also compare needle-risk behaviors, crack use, sexual risk behaviors, and perceptions of HIV risk for African-American and white drug users in our sample. The pattern of differences we find in risk behaviors between African-American drug users and white drug users underlines the important role that crack cocaine may play in HIV infection in the African-American community and the need for more intervention programs designed specifically for heterosexual African-American drug users.
Trends and Patterns in Illicit Drug Use among Students Aged 12 TO 18 in the Netherlands
Authors: Kuipers S.B.M. , de Zwart W.M.
Published: November 2015

The tradition of conducting surveys to measure substance use among youngsters in the Netherlands dates back to 1969. Since that time, a number of prevalence surveys have been conducted regarding illicit drug use, particularly the use of cannabis. Comparing these survey results has been problematic, however, due to differences in sampling approaches and data collection methods. This article provides a description and analysis of the early student drug use studies, concentrating on their contributions to our knowledge about changing patterns of use among these groups. It also details the more problematic aspects of this data, difficulties associated with the manner in which the studies were conducted. Recent efforts have been attempted to correct these difficulties by standardizing methodological approaches. The Peilstations-Survey, a national evaluation of school students 12–18 years of age, has been conducted four times since 1984. Results indicate an increase in both the lifetime and last-month prevalence of cannabis use over the 1984–1996 period, although only a minority of the students reported using cannabis on a regular basis. The general characteristics of very regular cannabis users have changed somewhat overtime, overall becoming more like those of current non-users. Peer influence, in particular, has remained an important predictor of cannabis-using behavior.
Cocaine and Crack in Amsterdam: Diverging Subcultures
Authors: Nabben Ton , Korf Dirk J.
Published: November 2015

Recreational cocaine use spread rapidly in Amsterdam at the end of the 1970s, particularly as a “party drug” in clubs and discotheques. At the end of the 1980s, the role of cocaine as party drug was largely taken over by ecstasy. In contrast, first cocaine and then crack cocaine increased in popularity among heroin addicts and marginalized street youth, including homeless youth and young prostitutes. Today, experimental use of crack is also observed among young people from socially deprived neighborhoods, especially among ethnic minorities. This article describes, mainly on the basis of ethnographic studies among these groups, the evolving and diverging patterns of use among trendsetting party youth and their marginalized counterparts. Important differences may be observed between groups related to socio-economic background, the role cocaine plays in their lives, transmission routes, and different operating market mechanisms influenced by drug policy. For party youth, cocaine use mainly serves recreational purposes. In contrast, for problem youth, cocaine, and now especially crack, contribute to multi-problem behavior within the context of their marginalized lifestyles.
Ecstasy Use and Policy Responses in the Netherlands
Authors: Spruit Inge P.
Published: November 2015

During the last 25 years, the Netherlands has attempted to achieve a balanced, two-track, public health and justice policy on drugs. This paper considers the implementation of that policy for ecstasy, a drug that has gained popularity throughout Europe during this decade. Prevention is the Dutch government's primary policy aim. Research, monitoring, and registration are important foundations for the public health aspects of Dutch policy. Important policy instruments include the development of regulations directed towards reductions in the environmental risks posed by house parties and efforts to educate users and non-users about the drug. The justice elements of Dutch ecstasy policy include the outlawing of compounds (since 1988), passing new criminal legislation, and enhancing national and international co-operative enforcement efforts. In 1996, the Public Prosecutor reviewed the criminal investigation and prosecution policy and ordained that all hard drugs (predominantly heroin, cocaine, and ecstasy) had to be criminally investigated and prosecuted along the same lines. Some public health and criminal justice elements of the national policy reinforce each other but others are conflicting. Policy efforts are directed towards the continuing process of maintaining a balance between these approaches and the control of conflicting interests.
Localization of Mitochondrial 60-kD Heat Shock Chaperonin Protein (Hsp60) in Pituitary Growth Hormone Secretory Granules and Pancreatic Zymogen Granules
Authors: Cechetto Jonathan D. , Soltys Bohdan J. , Gupta Radhey S.
Published: November 2015

We used quantitative immunogold electron microscopy and biochemical analysis to evaluate the subcellular distribution of Hsp60 in rat tissues. Western blot analysis, employing both monoclonal and polyclonal antibodies raised against mammalian Hsp60, shows that only a single 60-kD protein is reactive with the antibodies in brain, heart, kidney, liver, pancreas, pituitary, spleen, skeletal muscle, and adrenal gland. Immunogold labeling of tissues embedded in the acrylic resin LR Gold shows strong labeling of mitochondria in all tissues. However, in the anterior pitutary and in pancreatic acinar cells, Hsp60 also localizes in secretory granules. The labeled granules in the pituitary and pancreas were determined to be growth hormone granules and zymogen granules, respectively, using antibodies to growth hormone and carboxypeptidase A. Immunogold labeling of Hsp60 in all compartments was prevented by preadsorption of the antibodies with recombinant Hsp60. Biochemically purified zymogen granules free of mitochondrial contamination are shown by Western blot analysis to contain Hsp60, confirming the morphological localization results in pancreatic acinar cells. In kidney distal tubule cells, low Hsp60 reactivity is associated with infoldings of the basal plasma membrane. In comparison, the plasma membrane in kidney proximal tubule cells and in other tissues examined showed only background labeling. These findings raise interesting questions concerning translocation mechanisms and the cellular roles of Hsp60.
Visual Electrophysiology and Reading/Learning Difficulties
Authors: Ludlam William M.
Published: November 2015

The literature relating visual problems, reading and academic difficulties with neurophysiological mechanisms shows positive interaction among these factors. Both visual evoked response and encephalographic studies show parietal or occipitoparietal neurophysiological anomalies which can be used to discriminate between normal and disabled readers to better than an 85% accuracy. Visual training and visual biofeedback have been used to change encephalographic alpha rhythm patterns with concomitant changes in attention and reading skills.
Perceptions of Classroom Teachers, Principals, and Resource Room Teachers of the Actual and Desired Roles of the Resource Teacher
Authors: Evans Susan
Published: November 2015

This study investigated whether the perceptions of resource room teachers, regular classroom teachers, and principals differ in what they think the role of the resource teacher should be and what they know it actually is. The responses indicate considerable agreement among educator groups in their estimations of the percentage of time actually and ideally allotted to eight role activities, with support for more time in communication and consultation roles and less time in clerical and miscellaneous tasks. Principals perceptions of the percentage of time resource room teachers spend in actual roles were in considerable agreement with the responses of the resource teachers. Although this was not true for the estimates of the classroom teachers, this group was the most supportive of increased resource room teacher participation in communication and consultation activities.
The determinants of low-intensity intergroup violence
Authors: Balcells Laia , Daniels Lesley-Ann , Escribà-Folch Abel
Published: November 2015

What accounts for low-intensity intergroup violence? This article explores the determinants of low-intensity sectarian violence in Northern Ireland, which has marked the post-1998 peace agreement period. Low-intensity violence comprises a variety of events from riots to attacks against other civilians as well as against homes and symbolic buildings such as churches. We argue that this violence is more likely and prevalent in interface areas where similarly sized rival communities are geographically in contact with each other. Parity and contact spur intergroup competition and threat perception, and they increase the viability of violence. We use original cross-sectional time-series violence data for the 2005–12 period at a disaggregated subnational level, the ward, and a wide variety of social and economic indicators to test our hypotheses. In particular, we assess the impact of within-ward ethnic composition, on the one hand, and the ethnic composition of neighboring wards, on the other. We find that the number of intergroup violent events peaks in wards where there is parity between groups, and in predominantly Catholic (Protestant) wards that border predominantly Protestant (Catholic) wards. The article makes two main contributions: it shows that micro-level dynamics of violence can expand beyond local territorial units, and it suggests that ethnic segregation is unlikely to prevent intergroup violence.
Selected Indexes of the Academic and Professional Preparation of Music Supervisors in Canada
Authors: Jorgensen Estelle R.
Published: November 2015

The purpose of this baseline study was to describe indexes of the academic and professional preparation of music supervisors in Canada, with particular emphasis given to the effects of geographic region in Canada, music supervisor type, and jurisdiction size type on these indexes. The study constitutes a first step toward the generation of a theoretical model and subsequently, of a competency-based model of the academic and professional preparation of music supervisors. The study is based on descriptive data derived from a national questionnaire survey of music supervisors in Canada.
The Effects of a Creative-Comprehensive Approach and a Performance Approach on Acquisition of Music Fundamentals by College Students
Authors: Dodson Thomas A.
Published: November 2015

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness of a creative-comprehensive approach (CCA) when compared with a performance approach (PA) on the acquisition of basic music concepts and skills by general college students. In the CCA, students were directly involved in the process of creating original music by assuming the roles of composer, performer, and analytic listener. Students in the PA were engaged in the performance and aural analysis of preselected folk and traditional music. A pretest-posttest design involving intact groups was used as the method of research. The resulting effects of the two instructional modes on three dependent variables revealed no difference in achievement on aural discrimination competence from pretest to post-test in the sampled groups. There was, however, evidence suggesting that the CCA was superior to the PA in developing students' self-confidence in dealing with basic music concepts and skills. Additional data indicated a slight, but not significant, difference in performance achievement between the two groups in favor of the CCA.
On the Existence of Combination Tones as Physical Entities
Authors: White Glenn , Grieshaber Kate
Published: November 2015

It was theorized that measures of objective difference tones found in a previous experiment were artifacts of test instrumentation. In an experiment that eliminated most of the possible error-producing instrumentation, no environmental difference tones were detected, although perceptual ones were. A recommendation is made that future research regarding combination tones be conducted using complex tones rather than sine tones, which do not occur in music.
The Significance of Changes in the Rate of Articulation
Authors: Goldman-Eisler Frieda
Published: November 2015

The term “rate of articulation” is applied to the absolute rate of speech, i.e. the rate based on the time of vocal speech utterance exclusive of pauses. The significance of its changes was studied in relation to changes in levels of verbal planning and in degrees of spontaneity. The effect of individual differences was also investigated. While articulation rate proved to be a personality constant of remarkable invariance it also reflects the degree of spontaneity in the production of speech. Variations in level of verbal planning were shown to have no effect on the rate of articulation. The implications of these results are discussed.
A Thai Tradition: Paying Respect to Teachers
Authors: Bram Marjorie
Published: November 2015

In these times, in this country, one reads almost daily of disrespect toward established authority, disruption of accepted educational practice, and disbelief in traditional values. Teachers are asked to balance the loss of order, efficiency, and decorum in their classrooms with gains in creativity and personal freedom and responsibility. Sometimes the achievement is worth the risk, as the preceding pages have shown. This report, in contrast, comes from the ancient kingdom of Thailand, where teachers and students have never heard of a game like Drum Ball.—Ed.
Heating, Cleaning, and Mechanical Processing Effects on Cotton: Part I: Fiber Changes as Measured by Alkali Centrifuge Test
Authors: Honold Edith , Andrews Frederick R. , Grant James N.
Published: November 2015

The effects of heat and mechanical processing were followed, by means of the alkali centrifuge test, in cottons of different crop years. Laboratory heating alone, if held within the limits considered acceptable in ginning operations, did not significantly alter the average alkali centrifuge value (ACV). Mechanical manipulation of cotton while hot and dry, as in gin lint cleaning, increased the ACV. Mill processing increased ACV, and each process produced a constant change regardless of the degree of drying at the gin. Several factors, such as cotton maturity, microbial activity, stage of processing, determine the level of ACV. Certain properties of lint or yarns were related to ACV, sometimes through mutual relations to other properties which are more difficult to evaluate.
A Study of the Deterioration of Fungicide-Treated Fabrics in Soil Burial
Authors: Kempton A. G. , Maisel H. , Kaplan A. M.
Published: November 2015

Fungicides used to protect textile materials have previously been evaluated on the basis of the rate of tensile strength loss by treated fabrics after exposure to microbiological attack. This approach has been based on the assumption that loss of tensile strength is a gradual process beginning soon after exposure. In the present paper, it is demonstrated that fabrics treated with copper 8-quinolinolate are not susceptible to microbiological attack in soil burial until most of the fungicide has been lost. It is therefore advocated that future attempts to prevent microbiological deterioration by fungicide treatment emphasize the study of factors influencing the permanence of the fungicide on treated material. The method of studying the kinetics of fungicide loss is illustrated with data for residual copper 8-quinolinolate. The loss of this fungicide theoretically appears to be a zero-order reaction, although the experimental persistence curve is slightly curvilinear.

The variability that is commonly encountered in soil burial experiments with fungicide-treated fabrics is discussed. It is concluded that variability in tensile measurements is probably the result of the variability in fungicide content, which was observed early in the burial period. An explanation is also offered for the relationship between the slope of the deterioration curve and the variability in individual tensile strength measurements.
Durable Water Repellency by Chemical Bonding of Silicones
Authors: Gilkey John W.
Published: November 2015

Silicones are used by the textile industry primarily to impart durable water repellency and a unique, soft hand to fabrics. To permit silicone water repellency to better withstand the severe laundering conditions to which cotton textiles are normally subjected, a bifunctional coupling agent was synthesized for use with standard textile emulsions. This siloxane polymer contains siloxane-reactive and cellulose-reactive groups which give it the potential of reaction with both the silicone water repellent film and the cotton surface. Its effect is apparent in the greater laundering durability of the properties imparted to the cotton by the silicone. The use of the coupling agent in silicone water-repellent systems for cotton is illustrated by data from laboratory and commercial finishing plant trials.
The Base-Catalyzed Condensation of Cellulosic Fabrics with Volatile Epoxides
Authors: Francis Thomas , Staples M. L.
Published: November 2015

The influence of temperature, time, and alkali concentration on the reaction of cellulose with volatile epoxides has been investigated. Cross-linking of cotton or viscose rayon fabrics with epichlorohydrin vapor produced a high degree of wet crease recovery and some improvement in dry crease recovery. A simple method involving an after-cure following the vapor treatment has been found to effect substantial improvement in dry crease recovery. Reaction of cellulosic fabrics with butadiene diepoxide vapor results in a marked increase in both wet and dry crease recover}-. In contrast to liquid phase treatments, the reaction of cellulose with epoxides in the vapor state occurs very rapidly at elevated temperatures and this technique may be readily adapted to continuous methods of processing. The effects of the vapor treatments on certain physical properties of the fabrics are recorded. In the light of these data the types of reactions involved and the products obtained are discussed.
Studies in Mothproofing: Part II: Feeding Damage to Several Kinds of Fibers by the Larvae of Two Species of Clothes Moth, with a Note on Their Life Histories
Authors: Kuwana Zyuiti , Nakamura Sigeko
Published: November 2015

Under natural conditions, Tinea pellionella has two generations (one of 70 and one of 300 days) a year, and Tineola bisselliella has three generations (45, 45, and 250 days) a year. At 25° C Tinea produces about six generations a year of about 55 days each with feeding periods of about 42 days, and Tineola produces eight generations of about 42 days each with feeding periods of about 32 days. Fed on a combination of dried fish or wool with yeast, Tinea larvae develop in about 56 days and Tineola in about 40 days. With dried fish or yeast alone, a longer developmental period is required. Fed with wool alone, all larvae die before long. In both species of moth, the greatest damage is done to wool between the 25th and 30th day after hatching and the amount of damage done by both species is comparable. A medium amount of damage is done to regenerated cellulose fibers and unscoured silk. The damage to scoured silk and chemical fibers is slight. Damage to staple and filament is greater than that to cloth. Especially in Tineola is this last factor related to case building activity of the larvae.
Recovery from Supercontraction in Reduced and Alkylated Wool Fibers
Authors: Haly A. R. , Snaith J. W.
Published: November 2015

Wool fibers that have been reduced and S-methylated completely recover their length from very high levels of supercontraction, when the contracting reagent (8 M LiBr solution) is removed by washing, provided no second-stage supercontraction has taken place. The amount of recovery decreases sharply with increase in second-stage super-contraction. Recovery is marked by restoration of an α-type x-ray diagram. It appears that recovery is not solely due to restoring forces exerted by bonds originally formed in equilibrium with the native state.
Load-Deflection Analysis of Fibers with Three-Dimensional Crimp
Authors: Chicurel R. , Suppiger E.
Published: November 2015

This paper formulates, in concise style, the differential equations and the boundary conditions describing the deformed shape of a three-dimensional crimped fiber subjected to end loads; a more complete analysis may be found in [1] and [3]. Bending and twisting effects are taken into account, but stretching of the axis and the deformation due to cross shear are neglected. An example, for which an exact solution is possible, is included and a simple experiment, providing limited experimental confirmation, is reported.
Studies in Wool Yellowing: Part VI: Changes in Amino Acid Composition Due to Yellowing with Particular Reference to Cystine
Authors: Maclaren J. A.
Published: November 2015

The products arising from cystine residues in wool on uv irradiation are cysteine, cysteic acid, and probably an unidentified intermediate oxidation product which reacts with mercurial reagents, also sulfate and “bromine-oxidizable sulfur.” By controlling the conditions of yellowing an attempt has been made as far as possible to separate the chemical effects associated with yellowing from those of general photochemical degradation. Yellowing of wool can be effected with only very slight decomposition of cystine residues (and also some decomposition of tyrosine, tryptophane, and histidine residues). There is no obvious relationship between the extent of cystine decomposition and the degree of yellowing produced.
Cortical Bilateral Structure and Wool Crimp
Authors: Snyman J. G.
Published: November 2015

The percentage paracortex by area in well-grown, unweathered, high- and low-crimp wools has been estimated on cross sections dyed with methylene blue. The cystine/cysteine content of these wools was also determined. The high-crimp wools were found to have a higher percentage paracortex and sulfur content than the low-crimp wools. This is probably related to the speed of mitotic activity of the germinal layer of the bulb. If proliferation activity is high (faster growth) less sulfur is incorporated into the fiber. In this way cross-linking is reduced, resulting in less structural strain, which expresses itself in fewer crimps.
Grafting of Poly(1,1-Dihydroperfluoroalkyl Acrylates) on Wool
Authors: Pittman Allen G.
Published: November 2015

Copolymers of 1,1-dihydroperfluorooctyl acrylate/methacryloyl chloride acted as multipurpose finishing agents for wool. They provided oil and water repellency; resistance to felting shrinkage; and resistance to acid, alkali, and oxidizing media. The hand and flexural rigidity were altered slightly, whereas wrinkle recovery, fabric break, tear strength, and abrasion resistance were not significantly changed. Grafting of the copolymers on wool is presumed to be due mainly to a reaction between copolymer-acid chloride groups with hydroxy and amino groups in keratin. Aside from rendering the polymer insoluble to dry cleaning solvents, grafting permitted the use of smaller amounts of resin for shrinkage protection than was required with nongrafted polymer. The washfastness of the oleophobic-hydrophobic finish was essentially the same in a comparison of a grafted copolymer fluoroalkyl acrylate and a nongrafted homopolymer fluoroalkyl acrylate.

No significant differences were noted in the washfastness or fastness to dry cleaning of the oleophobic-hydrophobic finish imparted by a commercial fluorinated acrylic resin (FC 208) when the resin was applied on untreated wool, on shrink resistant wool fabrics, or in conjunction with an interfacial polymerization shrinkproofing technique.
A Dynamic Analysis of Coplanar Crimped Elastic Filaments
Authors: Freeston W. D. , Hurt W. G. , Suppiger E. W.
Published: November 2015

An analysis of the dynamic response of coplanar crimped elastic filaments is presented, and the natural frequencies of vibration are obtained with the aid of a digital computer. These results are then compared with experimental results from a series of tests in which alternating current was passed through steel wire specimens in a magnetic field.
A Quantitative Picture of the Fringed Micellar Model of Cellulose
Authors: Scallan A. M.
Published: November 2015

Quantitative diagrams of the fringed micellar model have been produced for tire cord, Fortisan, wood cellulose, cotton, ramie and bacterial cellulose, based on the results of the reactivities of these celluloses towards deuterium oxide and acid hydrolysis.

The hypothesis has been used that rapid acid hydrolysis occurs in the truly amorphous zones, whereas deuteration occurs not only in these zones but also on the surfaces of the crystallites. It is from this hypothesis that calculations of crystallinity, crystallite width, and crystallite length have been made. The calculated fractional crystallinities of native celluloses are, therefore, in the range of 0.89-0.96, while those of regenerated celluloses range from 0.65 to 0.85. These crystallinities are higher than previously accepted values and are more in keeping with the most recent interpretation of x-ray diffraction patterns.

The values of calculated crystallite width were about 17Å for the regenerated celluloses and 32Å for native celluloses. The latter value is close to that currently proposed by electron microscopists. Crystallite lengths were calculated from the levelling-off DP found on acid hydrolysis.

The various methods of measuring crystallinity are discussed in terms of the model, as are microfibrils, crystallites, and paracrystalline cellulose.
The Drying of Fibrous Materials
Authors: Lyons Donald W. , Vollers Charles T.
Published: November 2015

This paper explains the drying processes for textile and other porous fibrous materials. The various types of heating methods typically employed for drying fibrous materials are described. Procedures for analyzing the drying process by the external approach and by the internal approach are discussed. A review of the most significant published literature in the field of drying of fibrous materials is presented.
A Two-Stage Sorption Model of the Coupled Diffusion of Moisture and Heat in Wool Fabrics
Authors: Li Y. , Holcombe B. V.
Published: November 2015

An extended mathematical model that takes into account the water vapor sorption kinetics of wool fibers is presented to describe the coupled heat and moisture transport in a wool fabric. The predictions from the two-stage model are compared with those from the Nordon-David model and a simple Fickian diffusion model, and with experimental observations on a sorption cell. The two-stage model shows the best agreement with the observations from the sorption cell tests.
Dynamic Water Vapor and Heat Transport through Layered Fabrics
Authors: Yasuda T. , Miyama M. , Yasuda H.
Published: November 2015

Dynamic water vapor and heat transport in the transient state was investigated for fabrics made of polyester, acrylic, cotton, and wool fibers. The overall dissipation rate of water vapor depends on both the vapor transport rate and the vapor absorption by fibers, which are mutually interrelated. Water vapor transport is governed by the vapor pressure gradient that develops across a fabric layer. When a fabric is subjected to given environmental conditions, the actual water vapor transport rate greatly differs depending on the nature of the fibers, even when other parameters are nearly identical, such as density, porosity, and thickness. The actual differential vapor pressure that develops across a layer depends on the water vapor absorption characteristics of the fibers. The higher the water vapor absorption rate, the lower the differential vapor pressure for water vapor transport and thus the lower the overall water vapor transport rate. However, the water vapor transport rate (when considering the actual differential vapor pressure across a fabric layer) is nearly identical regardless of fiber type, providing the fabric structures are kept nearly the same. Water vapor transport occurs through the open air spaces confined by fibers, and the nature of fibers does not greatly affect the characteristic vapor transport rate through these spaces. The temperature of the air space between two layers of fabric rises when water vapor transport occurs. This rise is nearly proportional to the water vapor absorption rate of a fabric, which is determined by the chemical nature of the constituent fibers.
Effects of Added Metal Ions on the Interaction of Wool Keratin Derivatives and an Azo Dye Carrying Hydroxyl Groups
Authors: Kim Young Joo , Kono Kenji , Takagishi Toru
Published: November 2015

The extent of binding of chrome violet, which is a monoazo dye involving two hydroxyl groups in the o and o' positions to an azo group, by wool keratin derivatives such as S-carboxymethylated, S-cyanoethylated, and regenerated keratin derivatives is markedly enhanced in the presence of Co2+ ion. The amount of binding in the presence of 1 times 10-4 mol/I of Co2+ ion increases by a factor of 12∼20 compared to that in the absence of the metal ion. Cu2+, Ni2+, and Zn2+ ions do not perceptibly influence the binding affinity of the dye. Al3+ ion, in contrast, suppresses the binding. To further investigate the action of added metal ions, we prepared a cobalt-complex dye and compared its binding property for the polymers with that of chrome violet in the presence of metal ions. We also measured the binding of the metal ions by the polymers. Co2+ ion did not exhibit remarkable binding affinity toward the polymers. Some possible mechanisms for enhancing chrome violet binding by the addition of Co2+ ion are described.
Physical Interpretations of Curves Obtained through the Fabric Extraction Process for Handle Measurement
Authors: Pan Ning , Yen K. C.
Published: November 2015

The major issues dealt with in this article are the possibility and principles of measuring multiple fabric properties with a single testing process, the fabric extraction method, which has been applied to handle measurement and evaluation. A theoretical model proposed by Alley is presented with some modifications to simulate the shape of the curve obtained using the fabric extraction method. Also, various approaches are used to explore the physical interpretations of the curve. Relations between fabric properties measured using the KES-F system and the data derived from the extraction curves are discussed so as to reveal specific practical meanings. An extraction curve can be characterized by five geometric features derived from that curve. These features can be treated as the indicators of fabric properties and are closely related to such properties as drape coefficient and crease recovery angle. The effects of fiber content and fabric construction on the shape of the curve are also demonstrated, indicating that the extraction method may be used for fabric identification or recognition.
Effect of Creep-Related Overdrying in Sizing on Warp Characteristics and Weaving Performance
Authors: Mogahzy Yehia E. El , Perkins Warren S.
Published: November 2015

Effects of creep-related overdrying during sizing on warp characteristics and weaving performance have been studied for a particular warp. During sizing, parameters such as moisture regain, warp stretch, and lease tension were monitored on a yard-to-yard basis at both normal and creep speeds. Yarn type and sizing agent were kept constant. Optimum levels of squeeze role pressure at both normal and creep speeds were determined before investigating the effect of overdrying on weaving performance. The results indicated that there is a critical pressure/speed combination at which yarn characteristics are optimum. The benefits of optimization were limited, however, by the effect of creep speed on the abrasion resistance of yarn. The effect of creep-related overdrying on weaving performance was determined by measuring the frequency of occurrence of warp breakage in both creep and normally sized warps. The rate of warp breakage during weaving was much higher in regions sized at creep speed than at normal speed. Size film degradation and deterioration of warp characteristics were believed to cause the poor weaving performance of creep regions.
A New Carpet Soiling Test
Authors: Lamb George E. R.
Published: November 2015

With the addition of a soil feeder, a laboratory carpet walker has been adapted to provide controlled soiling to evaluate carpet soil resistance. The degree of soiling is measured with a Hunter ColorQuest spectrocolorimeter.
Reacting Cotton Cellulose with Lignin-Based Polyurethane
Authors: Cardamone Jeanette M.
Published: November 2015

Chain-extended lignin was reacted with blocked isocyanate and the product, lignin polyurethane (LPU), was subsequently applied by padding to cotton print cloth at three add-on levels: 1.70, 3.45, and 4.30%. Product syntheses and reactivity were followed by FTIR spectroscopy. LPU as a formaldehyde-free finish improved durable press (DP) and dimensional stability of the unfinished cloth, but the improvement was less than conventional amino resin finishes. Unlike conventional resin finishes, LPU showed strength and abrasion resistance retention. Abrasion resistance improved at the 3.5% add-on level. Grafting LPU onto cotton cloth is a surface reaction, given the molecular size of the product and detection by specular reflectance infrared spectroscopy. Even with the limited accessibility of the reactant groups in the unswollen cloth, a sufficient number of carbamoyl linkages formed to improve properties. Although DP ratings were not high, LPUs tailored by alkyloxyhydroxide chain extensions are likely resins for films, nonwoven consolidants, and composite materials, providing receptivity of cellulose to materials for which it has little affinity.
Properties of Cotton Fabrics Crosslinked with Different Molecular Chain Lengths of Aldehyde Agents
Authors: Liang Tsang-Yuh , Hwang Jenn-Yann , Ju Der-Shiann , Chen Cheng-Chi
Published: November 2015

Adsorption time curves from finite baths have been studied for untreated cotton fabric and cottons treated with differing molecular chain lengths of aldehydes (formaldehyde and glutaraldehyde). Crosslinking reduced the rate constant, structural diffusion resistance constant, and equilibrium adsorption of dyeing. Additionally, these data decreased with increasing agent concentration and with increasing molecular chain length of the crosslinking agent. The dyeing activation energy of the glutaraldehyde treated fabric was lower than that of the formaldehyde treated fabric.
Effects of Synthappret BAP-Based Treatments on the Cuff-Edge Felting and Mechanical Properties of a Lightweight Woven Wool Fabric
Authors: Cookson P. G. , De Boos A. G.
Published: November 2015

Cuff-edge felting of a pure wool shirting fabric treated with Synthappret BAP, either alone or in combination with a polyurethane or polyacrylate, has been examined. Using appropriate levels of polymer, cuff-edge felting was prevented after the recommended test of five 5A washing cycles in a Wascator. The inherent stiffness of the polymer-treated fabric was reduced by washing, decatizing or, especially, dry-cleaning; reductions in bending rigidity were accompanied by increases in extensibility. Scanning electron micrograph studies showed that mechanical action along a cuff edge during washing caused fiber damage and failure of the polymer. Mechanical action also occurred during dry-cleaning, and this lead to more severe cuff-edge felting as a result of subsequent washing. The level of weave crimp has a major bearing on cuff-edge felting.
Analysis of Blend Irregularity in Yarns Using Image Processing: Part I: Fundamental Investigation of Model Yarns
Authors: Watanabe Akira , Kurosaki Shi-Nya , Konda Fujio , Nishimura Yoshiro
Published: November 2015

In this research, a computer image processing system is used to evaluate the blend state (fiber arrangement) or uneven distribution in blended yarns. Part I presents an investigation of the precision and effectiveness of the system using three kinds of model yarns, whose numbers of component filaments, blend ratios, and blend states have been predetermined. The method of image input, various image processing techniques, and a statistical analysis are examined based on the model yarns. The results show clearly that with this system, the diameter and area of one fiber can be measured, the blend ratio of black and white fibers in a short sample length can be accurately determined, and the size of a cluster can be quantitatively evaluated.
Liquid Wetting, Transport, and Retention Properties of Fibrous Assemblies: Part II: Water Wetting and Retention of 100% and Blended Woven Fabrics
Authors: Hsieh You-Lo , Yu Bangling , Hartzell Mary Michelle
Published: November 2015

The liquid wetting and retention properties of cotton, polyester, and their blends and other woven fabrics, each containing a single fiber type, were investigated using a previously established method. Several aspects of liquid retention properties of woven fabrics were discussed, i.e., distribution of liquid uptake, instantaneous liquid wetting and uptake, and steady-state liquid-holding capacity. The intrinsic liquid wetting behavior and liquid retention properties of fabrics are governed by different but interdependent substrata variables. As demonstrated by similar water contact angles obtained for films, fibers, and fabrics of the same polymer, the intrinsic wettability of fabrics depends on the chemical compositions of polymeric materials. Liquid retention, on the other hand, is governed by the pore structures as well as the wetting properties of the substrata.
Extraction and Evaluation of Fibers from Sugar Cane
Authors: Collier Billie J. , Collier John R. , Agarwal Pankaj , Lo Yu-Wen
Published: November 2015

Sugar cane fiber bundles were extracted from the separated rind of cane stalks using alkaline treatments. The amount of lignin removed depended on alkaline concentration and time and pressure of treatment; agitation and vigorous boiling also affected the lignin removal. A severity factor R was calculated to compare the delignification conditions. Alkali concentration significantly affected the mechanical properties of the fiber bundles. Tenacity, toughness, and linear density were higher for the fibers extracted at the lower concentration, as were bending rigidity and hysteresis.
Fiber Motion in Roller Drafting
Authors: Weber Marcus O. , Wulfhorst Burkhard
Published: November 2015

Processing in spinning mills demands high precision and reliability from the machinery. Accurate information on the processing stages of production and precise quality monitoring are required in yarn manufacturing. We present a new technology for measuring fibers during the drafting process. Using luminous tracer fibers, we can obtain signals from the fiber bundle. Initial measurements and interpretations are shown.
A Preliminary Investigation of a Beta-Particle Transmission Gauge for Seam Quality Determination
Authors: Titus K. J. , Clapp T. G. , Zhu Z. , Gardner R. P.
Published: November 2015

Automation of assembly operations throughout the textile industry requires the development and implementation of new quality monitoring systems. A beta-particle transmission gauge using a 90Sr source is investigated as a potential on-line seam inspection technique. The fundamentals of beta-particle transmission radio gauges are discussed in the context of their applicability to textile materials, and preliminary results are obtained with a laboratory prototype device. Unknown sample thicknesses for a variety of woven and knit fabrics are determined from the counting rate intensities of radiation transmitted through the fabric and the experimentally derived areal density. Single-fold knit hems and felled denim seams are evaluated by the gauge system. Results indicate that the number of layers present within the hem or seam can be rapidly and accurately determined to assess seam quality.
Effect of Glow Discharge-Polymer Treatments on the Shrinkage Behavior and Physical Properties of Wool Fabric
Authors: Zuchairah I. M. , Pailthorpe M. T. , David S. K.
Published: November 2015

The application of glow discharge plasma to the surface of wool fabric is known to increase fiber hydrophilicity and confer a partial shrink resist effect during washing. In this work, four different polymer systems, Basolan SW, Basolan MW, Polymer G, and Polymer PL, are applied onto plasma treated wool fabric to enhance the degree of shrink resistance. The level of shrink resistance varies significantly with plasma-polymer treatments, depending on the kind of polymer system applied, with Polymers PL and G conferring excellent shrink resistance even for very short plasma pretreatment times of 2 minutes. The extent of weight loss during washing is also minimized for all plasma-polymer applications relative to polymer-only or chlorinated-polymer treated wool. Fabric tear strength and handle are adversely affected by plasma treatment, but these properties are favorably restored on polymer application. Wrinkle recovery decreases with plasma treatment time, and this property is not improved with polymer application.
Effects of Temperature and Salt on Dye Mixtures in the Batch Dyeing Process
Authors: Reddy Maddy , Jasper Warren J. , McGregor Ralph , Lee Gordon
Published: November 2015

For real-time control, it is usually desirable to formulate a mathematical model of the process to be controlled. Such a model assists in the selection of control parameters and enhances the understanding of the underlying processes. A mathematical model for two-dye mixtures is developed comprising a diffusion based model to account for dye penetration into the fiber and a nonlinear distribution function at the fiber surface based on the Langmuir isotherm. Since the behavior of dyes in mixtures often deviates from their behavior when used alone, the dyeing process cannot be modeled by a simple combination of single dye models. Numerical simulations of the behavior of direct cotton dye mixtures under varying conditions of temperature and salt concentration are also presented, and compared with experiments.
Compression and Packing Density of Fibrous Assemblies
Authors: Neckář Bohuslav
Published: November 2015

This paper presents a generalization of the unidimensional deformation equation based on the van Wyk theory. The derivation considers the effect of uncompressed areas between contacting fibers. Theoretical results are verified by the experimental work of Baljasov. The solution is extended to cover bidimensional deformation of an oriented fibrous assembly. The work also proves the importance of using fiber packing density as the argument in the compression equation.
Modeling the Diffusive Transport of Bulk Fiber Mass in a Card
Authors: Wibberly Leonard D. , Roberts William W.
Published: November 2015

A probabilistic model for the behavior of bulk fiber mass in a card is developed. This model is based on a random-walk description of fiber motion in the interface regions between rotating cylinders. The description incorporates the likelihood of fiber-surface interactions resulting in fibers traveling with one surface or the other, the speeds of the surfaces, the typical distances traveled between such interactions, and the lengths of time spent in the interfaces. These parameters depend, in turn, on the geometry of the card and the characteristics of both the surfaces and the fibers. The model is implemented in a computational simulation of a basic card consisting of a main cylinder and a worker/stripper pair; this includes not only the transport of mass through each interface, but the propagation of the mass around the cylinder surface and transfer from one surface to another at each time step of the numerical computations. Given certain data representing the density of input fiber mass versus time, the corresponding output fiber mass density is calculated, along with the fiber mass density at all points on the card at each time step. These results are then analyzed to determine the amount of smoothing of bulk fiber mass effectively performed by the card.
Numerical Investigation of Intrinsic Mechanical Properties of Carbon Fibers
Authors: Krucinska I. , Krucinski S.
Published: November 2015

This paper evaluates a loop bending test that can measure the intrinsic strength and breaking strain of carbon fibers. The discussion extends from the applicability of a closed-form solution for prismatic bar flexure, subjected to large deformations, to an interpretation of the test results. The assumptions embedded in the closed-form solution are verified by finite element computer simulations of the loop test.
Ester Crosslinking of Cotton Fabric by Polymeric Carboxylic Acids and Citric Acid
Authors: Yang Charles Q. , Wang Xilie , Kang In-Sook
Published: November 2015

Polycarboxylic acids appear to be the most promising nonformaldehyde durable press finishing agents to replace the traditional N-methylol reagents, 1,2,3,4-Butanetetracarboxylic acid (btca) is the most effective crosslinking agent among the acids investigated, but its exceedingly high cost has prevented its use in the textile industry on a commercial scale. In this research, we evaluate the effectiveness of two polymers of maleic acid, i.e., the homopolymer (pma) and the terpolymer (tpma), along with citric acid (ca) for crosslinking cotton cellulose., pma, tpma, and ca have molecular structures similar to btca, but are more cost effective. We have found that pma and tpma are less effective crosslinking agents for cotton than btca, probably due to the low mobility of the anhydride intermediate formed by pma or tpma to access the cellulosic hydroxyl during the curing process. We have found that the hydroxyl of ca and other α-hydroxylpolycarboxylic acids hinder the esterification of those acids with cellulose. The infrared spectroscopy data indicate that ca esterifies the anhydride intermediates of pma and tpma on cotton fabric under curing conditions. Consequently, ca is transformed from a trifunctional acid to a tetrafunctional one with the formation of an ester linkage with pma or tpma.
Fabric-Evoked Prickle in Worsted Spun Single Jersey Fabrics Part II: The Role of Fiber Length, Yarn Count, and Fabric Cover Factor
Authors: Naylor G. R. S. , Phillips D. G.
Published: November 2015

Fabric-evoked prickle is studied in a range of jersey knitted wool fabrics made from worsted spun yarn. The existing predictive model of relative prickliness based on earlier studies of wools with diameter characteristics is extended and can quantitatively account for changes in mean fiber length, yarn count, and fabric cover factor. For all these variables, relative prickle sensation can be predicted from the density of coarse fiber ends per unit area of fabric. It is thus possible to compare the relative importance of these variables. Within the commercial range, the mean fiber diameter of a wool remains the most important factor affecting fabric-evoked prickle.