bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
The Effect of pH and Detergents on the Felting of Shrink-Resistant Wool
Authors: McPhee J.R. , Feldtman H.D.
Published: March 2008

The rate of felting of an untreated wool fabric increases with decreasing pH of the felting solution over the pH range 2-10. The felting rate is increased at all pH values by the addition of nonionic detergent to the solution.

The felting, relative to untreated wool, of wool made shrink-resistant with perman ganate/salt, acid chlorine, permonosulfuric acid followed by sulfite, permanganate hypo chlorite, peracetic acid/hypochlorite, hypochlorite at pH 8, or gaseous chlorine increases with decreasing pH of the felting solution. The magnitude of this effect can he reduced by treatment with higher concentrations of reagents. After treatment with reagents of the concentrations used industrially, no change in felting rates with pH can be de tected at pH values above 5. The actual rate of felting of wool treated with reagents of these concentrations is low and is not significantly affected by the addition of soap or nonionic detergents to the solutions.

The felting, relative to untreated wool, of wool treated with ethanolic thioglycolate, aqueous hisulfite (on extracted wool). hydrogen peroxide folluwed hy bisulfite, ethanolic sodium hydroxide, or sodium hydroxide saturated salt does not vary with pH in the absence of detergent. Felting is increased by the addition of detergent to the solutions. In detergent solutions, the relative felting of wool treated with ethanolic thioglycolate, aqueous bisulfite (on extracted wool), or hydrogen peroxide bisulfite does not change with pH. hut the relative felting of wool treated with sodium hydroxide in ethanol or saturated salt solution reaches a maximum at pH 7-9.

Frictional properties of fibers treated with some of the reagents have been measured (by the capstan method using a keratin rod at different pH values in the presence and absence of detergent. Felting behavior does not appear to be explained by these fric tional properties alone. Some other property, or properties, of treated wool, which vary differently with pH than do similar properties of untreated wool, must play a part in felting.
Shrink-Resist Treatment and Laundering of Wool Fabrics
Authors: McPhee J.R.
Published: March 2008

Commercial wool fabrics may shrink on wetting, due to the relaxation of strains imparted in processing, in washing, due to felting, an inherent property of wool fiber. and in the tumble drying- of wet fabrics, due to a reversible relaxation of structure. The common industrial methods for reducing felting by chemical reactions are described. Many factors affect the rates of these reactions, and it is essential to control the proc esses adequately if shrink resistance of the required level is to be consistently obtained. The types of machines used for treatment and the importance of efficient scouring and of obtaining level treatments are discussed.

The properties of wool treated by the various methods are described. It is often better to dye or bleach after shrink-resist treatment, but it is shown that prolonged boiling must be avoided since shrink resistance and strength may be adversely affected and relatively high weight losses obtained.

Machine laundering of woven and knitted fabrics is discussed in terms of type of machine action, load in the machine, fabric structure, and degree of shrink-resist treat ment. All these factors must be considered simultaneously in the commercial production and sale of washable wool goods.
The Kinetics of the Absorption and Desorption of Single Ions by Keratin Fibers
Authors: Underwood Donald L. , White Howard J.
Published: March 2008

Rates of absorption, desorption, and exchange of both cation and anion by hair in Na2SO4 solutions have been measured using a radioactive tracer technique. These are compared with results obtained previously using alkali halides, Na2 SO4 and H2SO4.
Regression Analysis as Applied to an Equation of State for Nylon Yarn
Authors: Ames William F.
Published: March 2008

In a previous paper responses of 66 nylon yarn to environmental changes were ana lyzed experimentally and an equation of state was developed from theoretical considera tions. The equation of state is herein analyzed as to its adequacy as a prediction equation for those environmental changes by the techniques of statistical regression analysis, and the regression coefficients are obtained. The regression technique is sketched in matrix form, and the various statistical tests and their implications are discussed. The equation of state is highly satisfactory as a prediction equation.
Determination of Cellulose in Textile Fibers
Authors: Smith B.F. , Davison S. , Smith F.
Published: March 2008

A quantitative colorimetric method has been developed for the determination of cotton (cellulose), viscose (regenerated cellulose), acetate (cellulose diacetate), and Arnel2 (cellulose triacetate) in binary textile fiber blends.

The anthrone and the phenol—sulfuric acid colorimetric methods were found to be suitable for the determination of cellulose, regenerated cellulose, and certain cellulose esters after pretreatment with 70% sulfuric acid at room temperature. Standard curves for glucose prepared by each colorincetric method were the same as those obtained for cellulose and viscose when the difference in molecular weight between glucose (180) and a glucose residue (162) was taken into account.

Both colorimetric methods can be used for the analysis of cellulose in standard binary blends containing no finishes or dyes. Commercially available cellulosic/non- cellulosic and cellulosic/cellulosic blends, some containing finishes and dyes, were also analyzed. The phenol—sulfuric acid method is preferred for textile analysis since better results were obtained with it. The accuracy of this colorimetric method was ±3.0% and, in many instances, blends were analyzed with an accuracy of ±1.0% or better.
The Effect of the Short Fibers in a Cotton on Its Processing Efficiency and Product Quality
Authors: Tallant John D. , Fiori Louis A. , Sands Jack E.
Published: March 2008

Print cloth fabrics (80 × 80) were produced from yarns spun from cotton contain ing different percentages of short fiber. In the case of all fabric properties measured, with the exception of crease angle, increasing short fiber content resulted in significant changes adverse to quality, i.e., in decreased strength, elongation, flex abrasion, and tearing strength. Subjective properties such as appearance and hand were also de graded as the short fiber content increased. The above conclusions appiy equally to fabrics in the grey, bleached, mercerized and dyed, and resin-treated states. No con clusions could be drawn as to the effect of short fibers on weaving performance, because of the limited quantity of experimental material available.
Stress-Strain Relationships in Yarns Subjected to Rapid Impact Loading
Authors: Smith Jack C. , Blandford Josephine M. , Towne Kathryn M.
Published: March 2008

An impact velocity just sufficient to cause immediate breakage in a filament im pacted in tension is called a critical velocity. Theories, of von Karman and Taylor, required for calculating critical velocities are reviewed and extended to include case of shock-wave propagation. Estimates of critical velocity are then calculated for some textile yarns using stress-strain data obtained at impact speeds near 40 m sec. The velocities obtained range in value from approximately 100 m sec for cotton sewing thread and glass fiber yarn to approximately 300 m sec for some vinal, rayon-tire-cord. acrylic, and nylon yarns. Theory is developed for calculating a limiting breaking velocity from the specific breaking energy obtained by high-velocity impact tests. It is shown that the limiting breaking velocity is higher than the critical velocity if the stress-strain curve is predominantly comcave downward, lower if the stress-strain curve is predominantly concave upward, and equal to the cricital velocity if the curve is linear. Critical velocities are also estimated from stress-strain data obtained at 100% min straining rates and compared with calculations from high-velocity-impact data. Good agreement is found in many cases.
Response of Cottons to Chemical Treatments
Authors: Rebenfeld L.
Published: March 2008

Single fibers from six widely different cottons were subjected to a single-fiber resin- finishing treatment during which each fiber was maintained under a controlled tension of 100 mg. Dimethylol-ethylene-urea (DMEU) was used as the resin finishing agent. Fibers receiving suitable control treatments were also examined. The mechanical properties of the treated single fibers were evaluated by a cyclic loading procedure on an Instron tensile tester. It was found that water and blank catalyst treatments did not affect the fiber rupture properties, but that the DMEU treatments caused a signifi cant reduction. Fiber elastic modulus and fiber resilience were increased slightly by the blank treatments but a major increase in these properties resulted from the DMEU resin-finishing treatment.
The S Factor in the Enzymic Hydrolysis of Cellulose
Authors: Youatt G.
Published: March 2008

The susceptibility of cotton to S factor is not destroyed by pretreatments with acid or alkali. Fibers other than cotton show marked differences in their susceptibility to S factor.
Soil Burial of Fabrics Treated with Minimal Concentrations of Fungicides
Authors: Darby Richard T. , Kempton Alan G.
Published: March 2008

Strips of cotton duck were treated with low concentrations of fourteen commercial and experimental fungicides and subjected to a soil burial test. Comparative effective ness of the compounds was determined in terms of dosage required to yield 50% loss in breaking strength ( ED 50) at ten days burial.

The effectiveness of the several compounds used ranged from 0.01% to 1.5% based on concentration of the treating solution. The most commonly used compounds were all effective at 0.5% or less. The effective soil burial life was found to be a function of the concentration within the limits of time and concentration studied. Several compounds were investigated in factorial combinations at concentrations known to result in partial effectiveness at ten days when used singly. No significant synergism was observed. The significance of minimal concentrations in relation to the breakdown process is discussed.
Fatigue in Textile Fibers
Authors: Lyons W. James
Published: March 2008

The fatigue lifetime of an acrylic sample was found to be expressible by the equation: L = a v ", where v is frequency, a is a function of stroke, and n is 0.72. The parameter a was found to decrease with an increase in stroke. The results are interpretable in terms of an elementary, molecular fatigue process. It is postulated that fatigue rupture occurs when a critical level of extension is reached.

A study of the residual mechanical properties of a viscose sample fatigued at various lengths was inconclusive with respect to whether fatigue failure results from the aggravation of weak spots or from over-all deterioration of the fiber substance.

Fatiguing the acrylic sample at different frequencies and for various periods of time was found to produce only insignificant differences in residual rupture properties among the fatigued fibers. The properties of these as a group, however, were found to be appreciably different from those of unfatigued fibers.

Microscopic examination of viscose fibers broken as a result of fatiguing showed the rupture surfaces to be essentially transverse planes, with no indication of fibrillation. X-ray diffraction data on fatigued nylon fibers revealed an axial lengthening of crystal lites of the material.
Influence of Solvent Media upon Polymerization of a Silicone Alloy Water Repellent
Authors: Conner Charles J. , Mazzeno Laurence W. , Reeves Wilson A.
Published: March 2008

A silicone alloy water repellent finish was made by the simultaneous polymerization of tetravinyl silane and methyl hydrogen siloxane carried out in four different solvents. The rate of polymerization was greater in two ketone solvents than in two hydrocarbons. The quality of the alloy as a water repellent also was affected by the solvent in which it was prepared.
Methods for Measuring Static Strains in Automobile Tires
Authors: Weickert Bernhard
Published: March 2008

Two methods for measuring strains in an automobile tire by means of x-rays are described and significant results are discussed.

The first method was designed to measure tire cord strains resulting from tire ex pansion, inflation, and deflection hy studying the dimensional changes of metat-shadowed cord. The second method was developed to provide a measure of tire carcass strains by following the movement of steel balls located between fahric plies. These techniques provide means for studying cord and tire behavior during tire manufacture as well as during tire inflation and deflection.

Both series of strain measurements (with shadowed cord and with steel balls) have shown quantitatively significant extensions and contractions in the cord and carcass of an automobile tire as a consequence of curing, expansion, inflation, and deflection.

Specifically, it was found that after inflation nonuniform strains existed along the cords within the same ply from crown to head of a tire. Cord strains from ply to ply were also nonuniform. The cords in the crown were stretched during expansion and curing, while the cords in the sidewall were subjected to appreciable contraction ; dimen sional changes which reflected a characteristic strain pattern within the tire and which originated during expansion and curing were retained in the tire after inflation.
Some Effects of Hydrogen Bonds on the Elastic Recovery and Shape of Load-Elongation Curves of Wool Fibers
Authors: Szucht Edward
Published: March 2008

Examination of the shape of wool fiber load-elongation curves obtained after a change in the rate of extension showed that each change produced new yield points. The sim ilarity between the normally occurring yield point and new yield points obtained in the region of creep shows that hydrogen bonds are elective throughout the whole process of the extension of the fibers. Treatment of the fibers with formic acid causes decay of the interaction of CO and NH groups, which is manifested by the lack of yield points and by complete return of the relaxed fibers to the initial state.
Activation Analysis in Textile Processing
Authors: Armstrong Arthur A. , Walsh William K. , Teszler Otto , Rutherford Henry A.
Published: March 2008

The use of neutron activation analysis as an analytical tool in textile processing is discussed. Gamma-ray spectra of activated fibers show the presence of many trace elements, but are not distinctive enough individually to allow identification of the fibers by the spectra. It is demonstrated that elements that lend themselves to neutron activa tion may be used as tracers in fiber process studies. Activation analysis may also be used successfully as a method for the analysis of yarns and fabrics for additives, such as sizes and finishes.
Oxidation of Partially Etherified Cottons with Nitrogen Dioxide
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Fenner Terrence W. , Reid J. David
Published: March 2008

Alkali-soluble, fibrous cellulosic textile materials may be prepared by the oxidation of partially etherified cottons with nitrogen dioxide. Modified cottons bearing ether substituents, such as aminoethyl, carboxymethyl, carboxyethyl, methyl, α-methylcarboxy methyl, or phosphonomethyl groups, were readily oxidized to yield products with high alkali solubility.

Using milder oxidation conditions than are required with native or mercerized cottons, products were prepared that are almost completely soluble in dilute sodium hydroxide or sodium carbonate solutions. The oxidation may be carried out with gaseous nitrogen dioxide or with organic solvent solutions of nitrogen dioxide.

Variables of the process and properties of the products were investigated most ex tensively with partially carboxymethylated cotton.
Measurement of the Surface Friction of Fibers by an Electro-Mechanical Method
Authors: Scheier Stanley C. , Lyons W. James
Published: March 2008

A torsion-wire instrument, built for the measurement of frictional force, is described. Its operation depends on the angular deflection of a beam when a slider on the beam passes axially along the test specimen. The frictional force involved is registered elec tronically through a capacitive transducer and a bridge circuit. Means have been taken to minimize the influence of noise-producing sources on the delicate transducer.

Typical chart recordings obtained on the frictional-force system are presented, showing that, under the conditions of these experiments, the frictional passage of an edge along a textile fiber is an irregular succession of "stick-slip" cycles. Two param eters, taking into account this irregularity, are introduced to characterize the frictional behavior of a fiber. Results of measurements in these terms are given for two man- made fibers, with and without finish, and for a camel-hair sample.

At the traversing speeds employed in the present experiments, finishes on man-made fibers appear to have little effect on frictional behavior. In general, no correlation was found between the geometric roughness and frictional parameters. However, in the case of the camel hair, which exhibits the differential frictional effect (D.F.E.), a cor relation was found, in that both the roughness and frictional parameters have higher values when measured in the "against-scale" direction. Measurements made on a nylon sample, with and without finish, at various normal forces, showed that one of the frictional parameters, average maximum force, is (quite strictly) proportional to the normal force, in agreement with Amonton's law.
Penetration of Cationic Dyes into Acrylic Fibers
Authors: Goodwin F.L. , Rosenbaum Shlomo
Published: March 2008

The penetration of cationic dyes into acrylic fibers has been studied by microscopic observation of fiher cross sections. The rate of penetration was found to increase with increasing fiber annealing temperature, site content, temperature and (high) acetic acid content of the bath, as well as with decreasing load. It decreased only slightly with in creasing draw ratio and was independent of dye concentration in solution or on the fiber surface, of pH and of salt concentration. A maximum in the color intensity gradient and its approximately linear variation with the square root of time made possible the determination of a penetration coefficient which has been compared with the apparent diffusion coefficient. With the exception of the effect of draw ratio, the results of the penetration and sorption experiments were in good agreement.
The Effect of Changing Humidity on the Insulation of Hygroscopic Clothing
Authors: David H.G.
Published: March 2008

Two series of experiments are described in which the insulation walue of wool fabrics is measured during the process of sorption or desorption by the fabric. The results are discussed from the point of view of the buffering action of clothing made from hygroscopic fibers. The buffering effect predicted in 1941 by Cassie et al. has been detected in a physical, as distinct from physiological, experiment, but only 30% to 50% of the total sorption heat is effective in reducing heat loss through the fabric. These measurements, combined with some measurements of regain changes of a wool suit on a wearer, suggest that, immediately after a change in atmospheric RH from 50% to 80%, the heat loss from a subject wearing such a suit is reduced by about 12% of the resting human metabolic rate and that this buffering effect is reduced to about 3% of the metabolic rate after 20 min. The prediction based on the assumptions that the regain change would be in accordance with the standard isotherm and that all the sorption heat would be available to the wearer is, therefore, an optimistic one.
Non-Woven Fabrics. Part VI
Authors: Thirlwell B.E. , Treloar L.R.G.
Published: March 2008

Measurements of lateral contraction in the plane of the sheet and of changes in thickness were made on cross-laid and random-laid bonded-nber fabrics subjected to a tensile stress either parallel or at right angles to the machine direction. From these measurements, the corresponding changes in volume were derived. The results show a large lateral contraction accompanied by an even larger percentage increase in thick ness, giving a resultant increase in volume on extension. All these changes were non-linear functions of the tensile strain.

For the study of the mechanical anisotropy of cross-laid fabrics, composite fabrics were prepared by bonding together two sheets of random-laid web, with varying angles between the machine directions of the components. From tensile tests on samples cut from the composite sheet, polar diagrams representing the variation of Young's modulus and rupture strength with direction were obtained. The results were in close agreement with theoretical values calculated on th assuption that the properties of the composite sheet in a given direction are the average of the properties of the two constituents in the corresponding direction.
Part I: A New Method for the Determination of Yellowing
Authors: Albeck Michael , Ben-Bassat Albert , Epstein Joseph A. , Lewin Menachem
Published: March 2008

A new method for the determination of the yellowing tendency of cotton cellulose is presented. It consists in extracting the sample in a 5% sodium bicarbonate solution under reflux for one hour and measuring the color intensity of the yellow solutions obtained. The solutions strictly obey Beer's Law. The color intensity is proportional to the solubility during extraction and is linearly related to the amount of cotton used in the extraction and to the extent of hydrolytic or oxidative modification of the cellulose. The influence of the extraction time and of the stortage time of the extracts on color intensity is studied.
Overdyeing and Diffusion of Acid Dyes in Nylon
Authors: Brody H.
Published: March 2008

The acid dye Alizarine Sky Blue, BS.FS, which exhibits considerable overdyeing in nylon 66 at pH 6.0, has a diffusion coefficient which is constant with conceutration. This behavior is characteristiç of a disperse dye and supports the conclusion that over dyeing is due to adsorption of an acid dye in a non-dissociated form. On the other hand, in the case of the acid dye Naphthalene Scarlet 4R, which does not show over dyeing at pH 6.0 and has a maximum dye adsorption equivalent to that necessary to saturate the amine ends, the diffusion coefficient increases considerably as the saturation of amine sites is approached.
Behavior of Notched Fibers in Longitudinal Tension
Authors: Prevorsek Dusan C. , Coe Arthur B. , Lyons W. James
Published: March 2008

Devices for cutting notches of controlled depth in monofils and for manipulating notched specimens under the microscope are described. Chordal and circumferential notches have been cut in nylon moriofils, and the deformation of specimens in the neighborhood of the cracks, when tension (to rupture) is applied, has been examined microscopically. The behavior of the fiber material at the roots of notches is discussed and interpreted in terms of molecular structure and orientation. Breaks observed in flattened monofils that had been notched on an edge, in one case, and centrally punctured, in another, have been interpreted to be of near-brittle character. Analysis of the char acter of a fracture su: face at a notch suggests that two mechanisms are operative in the propagation of a notch or crack to rupture.

Tensile tests made on monofils of various diameters, as well as on circumferentially notched specimens, reveal that breaking strength decreases as the diameter becomes larger. This is taken to imply that the inherent flaw size usually increases with an in crease in specimen volume. From a plot of the breaking loads of monofils having Chordal notches of varying depth, an estimate of the equivalent depth of the inherent flaws is obtained.
Hygrostress and Hookean Modulus of Modified Wool Fibers
Authors: Haly A.R.
Published: March 2008

Changes in tension at constant length resulting from the change in relative humidity from 100% to dryness (hygrostress) are presented for normal, reduced, and reduced and methylated wool fibers. The shape of hygrostress-extension curves is discussed in terms of the types of bonds involved and the effect of ordered and less-ordered regions in a fiber. It is concluded that hydrogen bonds and Van der Waals forces are directly involved, and disulfide bonds indirectly by enforcing the in-phase extension of a group of hydrogen bonds associated with ordered regions. No evidence was found in favor of a significant role for hydrophobic bonds. Previous data on the effect of disulfide bonds on the Hookean modulus of wool fibers are consistent with the proposed mechanisms.
The Location of Acid and Disperse Dyes in Polyamides
Authors: Brody H.
Published: March 2008

Assuming that nylon 66 fiber has structural elements similar to those of an imperfect crystal, it is proposed that dyeing by acid and disperse dyes occurs by filling vacancies caused primarily by chain folding. The hydrolysis during dyeing with acid dyes is assumed to take place at these folds. This leads to the concept of a maximum dye capacity determined by packing requirements for a fixed "free volume" within the fiber. In the case of acid dyes. it is proposed that additional dye can be accommodated by further hydrolysis of chains bordering the vacancies. Disperse dyes appear to have Langmuir-type adsorption isotherms on nylon 66, presumably due to the filling of the proposed sites. It is suggested that the dyeing of cellulose acetate by disperse dyes is also site-determined, with the usual linear isotherm being a Langmuir isotherm of limited extent. This partial filling of the sites would arise from a limiting dye solubility in the dyebath.
Frictional Forces on Wool Fibers in a Worsted Fabric
Authors: Denby E.F. , Andrews M.W.
Published: March 2008

The force needed to move wool fibers in a loose worsted fabric has been measured by extracting fibers from the fabric. The results are compared with the frictional co efficients found by the capstan method, and it is shown that the coefficients measured on a capstan made of yarns are simply related to the forces. The pressure on fibers within the fabric has been determined from these measurements, and all three quantities have been found as a function of washing time during the early stages of felting. The sig nificance of these results to theories of felting is discussed.
Part II: The Influence of Functional Groups and the Nature of the Yellowing
Authors: Albeck Michael , Ben-Bassat Albert , Lewin Menachem
Published: March 2008

The yellowing tendency of modified cottons is found to depend solely on the aldehyde groups content, the ketone and carboxyl groups having no appreciable influence. Linear plots of yellowing against aldehyde groups content and against 1/DP were found and enable us to differentiate between terminal C1 and other aldehydes in oxidized cottons. Reducing sugars show a yellowing similar to modified celluloses; pentoses and alduronic acids yield lower values than hexoses, while non-reducing sugars produce no yellowing. The ultra-violet spectra of bicarbonate extracts of modified celluloses and glucose are similar to alkaline extracts of aged celluloses. These spectra and the infra-red spec trum of the color substance and its elementary analysis point to the possibility that the colored substances are furan derivatives. It is suggested that the new yellowing method be considered as a means for the characterization of bleached cottons.
The Yellowing of Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Lewin Menachem
Published: March 2008

The differences between the brightness reversion on aging and the yellowing in alkaline solution found for hydrocelluloses and carboxyl-containing celluloses are ex plained by anhydridization of the terminal C1 aldehydes on aging and autohydrolysis caused by the carboxyl groups. The reaction sequence leading to the formation of the yellow substances seems to involve a peeling-off of glucose units from the chain ends, isomerization and fragmentation of the peeled glucose units, and condensation of the fragments to furan derivatives and to carbonyl-groups-containing colored substances. The smaller contribution to yellowing of the aldehydes in NaClO-oxidized cottons, as compared to hydrolyzed cotton, is explained by postulating the existence of "inactive" aldehydes which do not cause peeling. The possible reasons for the lack of yellowing of keto-celluloses are discussed.
Degradation of Human Hair by Papain
Authors: Swift J.A. , Holmes A.W.
Published: March 2008

Papain/bisulfite is shown to disintegrate the cuticle of human hair by dissolution of the endocuticle. Ethanol extraction removes cell membrane material, which is presumed to allow increased access of the enzyme and hence speed disintegration of the hair. In addition it has been shown that a thin layer of electron transparent material is also removed from the surface of the hair by hot ethanol extraction. It is suggested that this component of the fiber may be regarded as the epicuticle described previously. The origin and nature of this material is discussed.
Durability of Serge in Trousers
Authors: Dowlen Rowena P.
Published: March 2008

The performance of worsted serge in trousers was studied. A domestic wool of 58's grade was woven into an 8 oz/yd2 serge (standard 2/2 twill, 68 X 68) that was dyed gray. Thirty-six pairs of trousers tailored from this serge were worn by college students until no longer acceptable for use (classroom wear). The service life of the trousers averaged 134 14-hr days. Average bursting strength of the trousers dropped from the original 135 lbs to 81 lbs (40% loss). Strength in general areas was as follows: ankle, 127 lb (6% loss): knee, 85 1b (37% loss) ; thigh, 83 lb (39% loss) ; seat, 52 lb (62% loss). Thin or threadbare spots and holes were characteristic wear patterns in the serge. Photographs show types of deterioration. For the original serge, a linear relationship was established between loss in bursting strength and cycles of flat abrasion from 0 through 1200. Agreement was also good between bursting strength results from worn trousers and from laboratory abraded fabric.
The Relation Between Longitudinal Swelling and Water Sorption by Keratin Fibers
Authors: Watt I.C.
Published: March 2008

Longitudinal swelling of keratin fibers has been measured as a function of time following abrupt humidity changes in the environment of the fibers. The equilibrium length change and the shape of the longitudinal swelling vs. relative humidity isotherm for horse hair and Corriedale and Lincoln wool fibers is dependent on the fiber type. The increase of length is associated with the disruption of the fiber microfibrils. At high humidities there is an overshoot in the length swelling accompanying the water absorption. For interval absorption at high humidities, the entire length increase for Corriedale fibers is transient, and the length returns to the value before the step was applied. For horse hair, only a part of the length increase is transient. The corresponding interval desorp tion causes no change of length. An effect on the longitudinal swelling due to the load on the fiber is observed for loads sufficiently large to extend the fiber into its yield region , in water. The observed relationship between longitudinal swelling and water content during sorption steps is discussed.
Newer Insecticides as Insectproofing Agents for Wool
Authors: Williams V.A.
Published: March 2008

Carbamates, organic phosphorus compounds, and organic chlorine compounds of low toxicity have been evaluated as proofing agents for wool against larvae of clothes moths and carpet beetles.

Carbamates are unsatisfactory because they cannot withstand the hydrotytic conditions encountered during application and use.

Several organic phosphorus compounds are effective at economic levels, and, of these, the most durable effect is obtained by treatment with Ethyl Guthion.

Organic chlorine compounds related to DDT represent the closest approach to a group of compounds that are selectively toxic to wool eating insects, since they are effective proofing agents but have relatively little effect on mammals. The choice of a suitable compound is largely dependent on durability and economic considerations.

The application of Dilene (DDD or TDE) at the boil is effective and durable at levels costing a penny per pound of wool.
Fatigue in Textile Fibers1
Authors: Lyons W. James , Prevorsek Dusan C.
Published: March 2008

Specimens of a polyester fiber (Dacron3 52), with zero twist and 100 turns per inch have been fatigued in cyclic tension, with a few different static (bias) loads. In two experiments an intermediate twist was used. 'With low loads it was found that the lifetime generally increases with twist. This effect is reversed when the specimens are subjected to greater static loads, presumably reflecting a tightening of the molecular, or microfibrillar structure. Average lifetime, in both untwisted and twisted fibers, was found to decrease drastically with increases in the static load. With a low static load a smaller amount of creep occurs in twisted fibers during a fatigue test than in untwisted controls. When the load is increased, it was found that this tendency is reversed.
Removal of Sodium Montmorillonite from Cotton1
Authors: Schott Hans
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabric treated with aqueous sodium montmorillonite dispersions retains 0.12 ± 0.02% clay after three to at least ten washes with fresh portions of water. When fabric containing this tenaciously held clay is washed with solutions of deter gents and other chemicals, any reduction in the amount of retained clay must be due to the action of these chemicals.

Polyoxyethylated nonionic detergents and polyethylene glycol were active, removing up to 70% of the clay. Cationic detergents were ineffective owing to their strong interaction with montmorillonite, which flocculates the clay and renders it hydro phobic; they also prevented or strongly reduced clay removal by nonionic detergents. Anionic detergents were ineffective because they are sorbed neither by montmorillonite nor by cotton: they did not interfere with clay removal by nonionic detergents.

The irremovable sodium montmorillonite (approximately 0.04% ) is equal to the amount needed to completely cover the cotton surface with a clay layer consisting of elemental laniellae 9.4 A thick lying flat against the fibrils. Therefore, even non ionic detergents, which readily penetrate adjacent clay lamellae and separate them from each other, cannot detach the bottom lamellae of clay from the cotton substrate.
Mothproofing of Wool with Organobromine Compounds
Authors: McPhee J.R.
Published: March 2008

Bromination of organic compounds in certain cases greatly increases toxicity to wool-digesting insects. A brominated salicylanilide (Diaphene) and a brominated organochlorine insecticide of very low mammalian toxicity (Bromodan, LD50 oral, rats 12,900) can be easily applied to wool and are each promising, durable moth proofing agents.
The Equilibrium Between the Disulfide Linkage in Hair Keratin and Sulfite or Mercaptan
Authors: Wolfram L.J. , Underwood D.L.
Published: March 2008

The equilibrium cleavage reactions of keratin disulfide with sulfite and mercaptans were studied. Experimental cleavage levels approximate closely those calculated on the basis of a derived equilibrium expression for the reaction employing the ionization con stants of the reactants and reaction products. A generalization of the equilibrium analysis leads to the conclusion that, in any nucleophilic attack on the disulfide bonds, the effect of pH on the equilibrium will depend primarily on the relative pK values of the thiol group of keratin and the attacking nucleophile. The pK of keratin thiol groups was determined by a novel swelling technique.
Strength of a Cotton Yarn with Particular Reference to the Structure at the Region of Break
Authors: Nanjundayya C.
Published: March 2008

The strength of a cotton yarn has been examined critically with reference to the twist, diameter, and number of fibers at the place of break. Two cottons showed that a majority of specimens broke at a place where the diameter was minimum and twist maximum. The results were also used to examine the relationship between diameter, turns per inch, and twist angle. Counts of the number of fibers at various points in the broken specimen under the microscope made possible an estimation of the number of broken fibers and the percentage of fiber strength used in yarn rupture and these were compared with the theoretical predictions made from Kohler's formula. The percentage of fibers broken and the percentage of fiber strength utilized in yarn strength were much higher than those recorded by previous workers, the reason for this being that the present values were based on the actual number of fibers present in the cross section at the place of break. The results were also examined in the light of Shorter's theory by relating the strength deficiency fraction with the twist angle at the place of break. In addition, some data on the length of slippage, apparent density, and their relationships are given.
The Dimensional Stability of Acrylic Knit Fabrics
Authors: Hurley R.B.
Published: March 2008

Fabrics knit from three different stable acrylic yarns have been examined for dimen sional stability both in the dry relaxed form and with length distortion. Three methods of wet relaxation were employed: wetting and drying at 115°C, immersion in boiling water, and tumble drying. While acrylic knit goods are similar to comparable goods knit from cotton or wool with respect to wet relaxation shrinkage, two important differences are demonstrated. First, the minimum temperature at which relaxation shrinkage occurs is well above room temperature. Secondly, the equilibrium loop shape is shown to be a function of the thermal history of the fabric.
Effects of Light on the ESR Spectra of Dyed Cottons
Authors: Baugh Peter J. , Hinojosa Oscar , Mares Trinidad , Hoffman Milton J. , Arthur Jett C.
Published: March 2008

It was demonstrated, by using electron spin resonance (ESR) 'methods, that free radicals are produced in purified and dyed cotton celluloses by the action of light. Cottons were dyed with 24 different dyestuffs selected from eight broad classifications: direct dyes (either low or high in light-fastness; after-treated with CuSO 4 or diazotized and developed), soluble ester vat dyes, and vat dyes applied by the hot-pigment method, sulfur dyes, and naphthols. Some of the copper-containing dyestuffs and cottons dyed with these materials gave EPR signals with broad line widths. Most of the other dyestuffs used and dyed cottons gave narrow singlet ESR spectra before irradiation with the intense source of light; this indicated that the natural light interacted with the dyestuffs and with dyed cottons to form free radicals.

On irradiation of the dyed cottons with the intense source of light, narrow singlet ESR spectra were also obtained; the signal strengths of these spectra were greater than those which resulted from the interaction of natural light with the dyed cottons. In most cases, the increases in the signal strengths of the spectra observed for the dyed cottons on irradiation were several times greater than the increase observed for purified cotton on irradiation. There was no obvious correlation between the interaction of light with the dyed cottons, as indicated by changes in their ESR spectra and the weather resistances of 'these cottons. This indicated that the energy absorbed by the dyed cottons from both natural and intense sources of light was not necessarily localized, so as to cause depolymerization of the cellulose molecule and consecluent loss in breaking strength of the yarn.
Vinyl-Cellulose Copolymers
Authors: Blouin Florine A. , Cannizzaro Anna M. , Arthur Jett C. , Rollins Mary L.
Published: March 2008

Graft copolymerization reactions of methyl, ethyl, butyl, hexyl, and lauryl methacrylates and 1,3-butylene dimethacrylate with fibrous cotton cellulose were initiated by the simul taneous irradiation procedure, using 60Co γ-radiation. The fabric properties of the poly(alkyl methacrylate)—cotton copolymers (methyl, ethyl, butyl, and hexyl) were determined at two degrees of grafting. The flex abrasion resistance of the poly(hexyl methacrylate)—cotton copolymer at 37% add-on of polymer was more than ten-fold that of the cotton fabric control. The flat abrasion resistance of the poly(ethyl methacrylate) —cotton copolymer was ten-fold greater than that of the fabric control. Examination of electron microphotographs of thin sections of the copolymers embedded in aqueous polyvinyl alcohol indicated that layer opening of the fibrous structure occurred during graft copolymerization and that the degree of layering and size of the opening was related to the molecular weight of the monomer being reacted. The radiochemical yields of the reactions ranged from 4,600 to 44,000 molecular actions per 100 eV at a dosage of 0.5 MR.
An Evaluation of Fiber Parallelization and Drafting Tenacity of Cotton Sliver
Authors: DeLuca L.B. , Simpson J. , Fiori L.A.
Published: March 2008

The effects of fiber parallelization and drafting tenacity were investigated on several cottons. The average drafting tenacity was directly related to the total amount of hooks present before drafting. When one cotton was processed through eight drawings, the total amount of hooks and drafting tenacity after each process were logarithmically related to the number of processes, with a decrease in slope occurring for each property after the fourth drawing process. When the majority hooks trailed at first and second drawing, fiber parallelization increased over the conventional drafting direction. Post- combing drawing does not reduce the amount of hooks significantly. A linear relation ship exists between hooks in roving and hooks in the sliver fed to the roving frame.
Some New Observations on the Effects of Mild Shrinkproofing Treatments on Wool Fibers
Authors: Makinson K. Rachel
Published: March 2008

When wool fibers which have been shrinkproofed by either the KMnO4/salt process or a dry chlorination process are examined with the optical microscope, normally, very little effect of the treatment can be seen. However, if they are straightened for the examination, a number of differences between treated and control fibers can easily be seen, especially if water is present. The principal effects are that the scales on the treated fibers, but not on the untreated, become less prominent as the fibers are straightened and that this change is much greater on the side which was the intrados of the crimp curve than on the extrados. Microscopic observation of fibers sliding on each other or over a diffraction grating also reveals effects of the treatment: the deforma tion of the scales of treated fibers is more plastic and less elastic than that of untreated and the sliding of the treated fibers is more heavily damped. From these and other observations, the conclusion has been drawn that these treatments degrade the protein inside the scales so that it becomes more viscous and less elastic, particularly when it is swollen by or dissolved in water. The epicuticle appears to be unbroken and still elastic.

These results throw some light on the well-known disagreement between different workers about the changes produced in the coefficients of friction of wool fibers by the KMnO 4/salt treatment.

1 In the comprehensive study of crimp recovery by Banbaji et al. [Textile Res. J. 32, 568-572 (1962)], the fiber was allowed to contract slowly and continuously. The observa tions described here refer essentially to discontinuous re covery.
Fiber Migration in Staple Yarns
Authors: Gupta Bhupender S.
Published: March 2008

This paper presents a discussion on the effective operation of the geometric cause of fiber migration in staple yarns. The experimental investigation is extended to some of the roving and drafting operation variables which had not been studied earlier. It is shown that the roving twist and drafting ratio have a significant effect on the rate of fiber migration. The influence of drafting tenacity was found to be negligible. Statis tical analysis shows that over 90% of the resolved effects are controlled by the mean fiber position.
The Effect of Drawing-Frame Variables on Cotton Fiber Hooks and Parallelization and Processing Performance
Authors: Simpson J. , Sands J.E. , Fiori L.A.
Published: March 2008

A study was made of the effect of the drawing frame variables, sliver weight, total draft and doublings, draft distribution, back roll setting and weighting, and top- bottom second roll spacing on fiber parallelization, fiber hooks, and processing per formance. Sliver weight had a significant effect on fiber hooks, fiber parallelization, and processing performance, whereas the other processing variables had little practical effect, even though the effects observed were in many instances statistically significant. Fiber hooks increased and fiber parallelization decreased as the sliver weight fed to drawing increased. This led to an increase in spinning end breakage.

An increase in draft and doublings increased fiber parallelization, but decreased sliver uniformity. The increase in fiber parallelization overshadowed the decrease in sliver uniformity, resulting in a decrease in spinning end breakage. These findings demon strate the need for achieving fiber parallelization, as well as sliver uniformity measure ments, to develop processing organizations that will result in optimum processing per formance and improved quality control.
Fatigue in Textile Fibers
Authors: Lyons W. James
Published: March 2008

Supplementing earlier studies, experiments have been conducted on polyester (PET), aromatic polyamide (APA), and polypropylene (PP) fiber samples at various strokes and at temperatures ranging from 23° to 90°C. In the PET, at a reduced stroke of 3.4%, a rise in logarithmic lifetime with increasing temperature was found; the same trend was exhibited by this material at higher strokes. In the APA and PP, at the strokes used, declines in lifetime with increasing temperature were observed. In all cases, the general level of lifetimes was raised with reductions in stroke. Considerable growth in the PP fibers during fatiguing was observed. Review of lifetime data on PET, nylon 66, and APA samples, at a number of strokes and temperatures, leads to the con clusion that the distributions of these data tend to conform to the Weibull third asymptotic pattern. Analysis of data on lifetime as a function of stroke, for six man- made fiber samples, reveals good agreement with an expression, originally proposed for metals, which relates these two variables. It is shown that results on an acrylic and two PET samples conform to an empirical formula which relates the frequency of cyclic loading to lifetime, and, furthermore, that this formula is a simplification of a theoretical expression developed in fatigue studies at TRI.
A Study of the Thermodynamics of Sorption of Three Direct Dyes on Cellophane Film
Authors: Porter John J. , Perkins Warren S.
Published: March 2008

The sorption isotherms for Direct Red 2, Direct Blue 8, and Direct Yellow 12 were determined at 84° and 95° on cellophane film. The data correlated much better with the Langmuir-type sorption isotherm than with the classical Freundlich equation generally used. Saturation values for each dye are reported at different salt concentrations and temperatures. Enthalpy, standard free energy of sorption, and entropy values were calculated and are interpreted in terms of dye structure and the sorption isotherm used. The Donnan equation was used to calculate gegenion concentrations on the substrate and gave a good representation of the partition of the sodium ion between the film and the solution.