bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
MACHINE LEARNING CLASSIFICATION OF BEACH STATE FROM ARGUS IMAGERY
Authors: Ellenson Ashley , Simmons Joshua , Wilson Greg , Hesser Tyler , Splinter Kristen D.
Published: January 2021

Nearshore beach morphology is of interest to coastal managers due to the strong influence it exerts on subaerial beach erosion, pollutant dispersal, and recreational safety. In particular, wave breaking conditions and nearshore hydrodynamics are highly dependent on sandbar configuration. The term 'beach state' describes specific planform configurations of nearshore morphology that are in dynamic equilibrium with the time-varying forcing conditions. Beach state categories were first introduced by Wright and Short (1984), who observed sandbar systems in Narrabeen-Collaroy, Australia and extended by Lippman and Holman (1990), based on observations of time-exposure Argus imagery of sandbar systems in at Duck, NC, USA. In this study, we use machine learning algorithms to identify beach states from Argus imagery at two distinct sites: Narrabeen-Collaroy (hereafter Narrabeen), SE Australia, and Duck, NC. We assess the ability of the algorithm to classify beach states at each site and its transferability from one beach to another. Additionally, we investigate the extent to which the spatial and temporal evolution of beach states influences the ability of the algorithm to classify images into discrete beach states.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/38OM8CseIww
COMBINING DATA-DRIVEN AND NUMERICAL MODELLING APPROACHES TO STORM EROSION PREDICTION
Authors: Simmons Joshua , Splinter Kristen
Published: January 2021

Physics-based numerical models play an important role in the estimation of storm erosion, particularly at beaches for which there is little historical data. However, the increasing availability of pre-and post-storm data for multiple events and at a number of beaches around the world has opened the possibility of using data-driven approaches for erosion prediction. Both physics-based and purely data-driven approaches have inherent strengths and weaknesses in their ability to predict storm-induced erosion. It is vital that coastal managers and modelers are aware of these trade-offs as well as methods to maximise the value from each modelling approach in an increasingly data-rich environment. In this study, data from approximately 40 years of coastal monitoring at Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach (SE Australia)has been used to evaluate the individual performance of the numerical erosion models SBEACH and XBeach, and a data-driven modelling technique. The models are then combined using a simple weighting technique to provide a hybrid estimate of erosion.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/v53dZiO8Y60
A TWO DIMENSIONAL COUPLED MODEL FOR SUBMARINE DEBRIS FLOW AND ITS INTERACTION WITH SUBSEA INSTALLATIONS
Authors: Das Himangshu
Published: January 2021

Debris flow are gravity driven mass flows which can create catastrophic geohazards along their overriding paths. Driven by the gravity, debris flow can travel long distances on favorable continental slopes. Their frontal velocity can be very high which may pose significant threat to offshore installations such as subsea pipelines, communication cables and offshore platforms (Yuan et. al., 2012). Therefore, understanding their dynamic behavior is critical in order to mitigate potential geohazards. The specific objective of this paper is to present a coupled two dimensional numerical model that characterizes debris flow movement, rheological properties and its interaction with subsea installations. For demonstration purpose, the coupled model has been applied to schematized settings representing generalized continental shelves with canyons.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link):
THE IMPACT OF BUILDINGS' CHARACTERISTICS ON AIRFLOW PATTERNS AND BED MORPHOLOGY AT BEACHES, USING CFD MODELLING
Authors: Pourteimouri Paran , Campmans Geert , Wijnberg Kathelijne , Hulscher Suzanne
Published: January 2021

During the last century rapid urbanization of coastal zones has been widespread all over the world. This highly increasing population in coastal zones leads to the construction of restaurants, sailing clubs, beach houses and pavilions at the beach-dune interface. Structures located adjacent to dunefields change the local airflow patterns which, in turn, alter sediment transport pathways and influence the aeolian landforms [Jackson and Nordstrom, 2011]. In this paper, firstly the impacts of buildings' characteristics on airflow patterns are investigated, specifically the impacts of building length, width and height. Secondly, the near-bed horizontal divergence of the velocity field is calculated for one case to infer resulting erosion and deposition patterns around the building. For all these purposes, a numerical model is developed.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/LNf-_Izu6Wk
HYDRAULIC APPROACH TO SHORELINE CHANGE DUE TO SUBMERGED BREAKWATER
Authors: Kim Inho , Lee Hyungseok , Kim Jinhoon , Sungyeol Chang
Published: January 2021

The items of investigation include wave induced current, wave height, beach profile, shoreline change, etc. The investigation has been performed seasonally. After the construction of submerged breakwaters, a tombolo was generated behind the submerged breakwaters. This caused beach erosion in the nearby areas. Rip currents are mainly generated near submerged breakwaters, which plays a role in the transportation of sand in the offshore direction. In order to analyze the sand movement, numerical analysis was conducted. The analysis indicated that a strong rip current is generated near submerged breakwaters.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/5p2wiNSMKlM
STUDY ON SCOURING IN PILE OF OFFSHORE WIND FARMING BY NUMERICAL ANALYSIS USING BUILDING-CUBE METHOD
Authors: Tokunaga Shogo , Arikawa Taro
Published: January 2021

In recent years, offshore wind farming has spread all over the world, and there has been rapid growth of not only conventional onshore wind farming but also offshore wind farming in the sea. However, there are many problems to be solved in offshore wind farming. Among them, the scour of the ocean floor caused by wave and tide has a great influence on the support structure. The purpose of this study is to clarify the scour phenomenon from the flow field and vortex generation conditions by numerical simulation using Building Cube Method. We conducted the simulation of the experiment which handles scouring around the monopile performed by Chen et al. (2018). The Building Cube Method was developed by Nakahashi and Kim (2004). In this study, we used CADMAS-BCM (developed by Arikawa et al.) that 3-D Navier-Stokes simulation model using the Building Cube Method. In this model, the 3-D Building Cube Method was applied using multiple roots. Moreover, because the calculation area is divided according to simple rules, it has features such as good compatibility with parallel computers, and grid generation by a simple method is useful for calculating the flow around objects with complex shapes.
Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/OlJK_Qw_TwY
MODELING RAPID BEACH CHANGE SURROUNDING A COASTAL STRUCTURE IN OBLIQUE WAVES
Authors: Lopez-Ramade Eduardo , Mulligan Ryan P. , Medellin Gabriela , Torres-Freyermuth Alec
Published: January 2021

Sandy beaches are typically in equilibrium with the wave climate, and changes occur when the system is perturbed. However, changes to nearshore morphology can occur when coastal structures are built and the system adjusts to a new equilibrium. An example of this is the construction of a shore-perpendicular groin that is designed to trap sediment . We investigate the capability of Delft3D model to simulate wave transformation, nearshore circulation and morphology change around a structure, driven by relatively small breaking waves at a very high incident angle.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/q_rnSiaP7WM
MORPHODYNAMICS OF SANDY BEACHES IN LOW ENERGY, NON-TIDAL ENVIRONMENTS
Authors: Ton Anne , Vuik Vincent , Wilmink Rinse , Aarninkhof Stefan
Published: January 2021

Sandy foreshores play an important role in flood risk reduction in areas near seacoasts, estuaries and lakes. The morphodynamics of sandy foreshores or beaches in lakes, known as low-energy, non-tidal environments, have not been studied as extensively as open coasts. The goal of this research is to understand the relation between hydrodynamics and morphology on sandy lake beaches. At our four study sites, a sub aqueous horizontal platform evolved of which the elevation stabilizes over time. We conclude that the eventual elevation of these platforms is located at the depth of closure.
Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/7TbmH3hXnDE
GUIDELINES FOR DESIGNING SAND NOURISHMENT ON LOW TO VERY EXPOSED COASTS
Authors: Karlsson Henrik Vinge , Larsen Britt Gadesboll , Sorensen Per
Published: January 2021

Danish law establishes a common right of passage on foot along the Danish shoreline, even though beaches are often privately owned. The law also states that coastal protection must not hinder this. Therefore, sand nourishment should be part of every coastal protection scheme against erosion. Sand nourishments can be designed in numerous ways depending on their objectives. As part of the European Interreg project, Building With Nature (BWN), guidelines will be developed by the Danish Coastal Authority (DCA) in end-2020. This abstract presents these guidelines with special focus on the coasts of Denmark. Special emphasis will be on insight into the natural variation of the coasts, as this is vital both when designing effective coastal protection schemes and when evaluating the impact of the nourishment. In this project, the pathway along which sediment is being transported spans from offshore at the outer bar to the coastal cliff. The aim is to be able to determine the along- and cross-shore paths, along which the nourishment sand is transported, the diffusion velocity of the nourishment and the impact on the surrounding coasts. Based on the results of the multiple analysis, the primary objective is to produce guidelines on how to use sand nourishment to counteract erosion in a sustainable and socioeconomic way.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/nIrFFmH98V8
APPLYING XBEACH ON 7,300 KM COAST: COASTAL CLIFF RETREAT DURING A STORM
Authors: Geertsen Karl-Soren , Knudsen Nanna Roland , Sorensen Per
Published: January 2021

Denmark is surrounded by more than 7,300 km soft coastline considered at high risk of storm erosion. The presence of more than 13,000 groins, shore parallel breakwaters and revetments clarify the need of protecting infrastructure and property against coastal erosion in a changing climate. The Danish Coastal Authority is responsible for carrying out a national risk assessment evaluating the risk level of storm erosion today, and in 2070 and 2120. This abstract focusses on the methodology for the calibration and validation of the numerical model Xbeach for calculating cliff retreat during storms using measured storm data. It is of highest priority to set up a model, which can perform on a national scale. In this work, it is shown that a single model setup is able to estimate the cliff retreat for all types of Danish coasts in both a 1D and 2D model approach.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/FUqgGu95g7M
OVERTOPPING FLOWS AND RELATED HAZARDS: A CASE OF STUDY FROM THE CATALAN COAST
Authors: Altomare Corrado , Gironella Xavi , Suzuki Tomohiro , Verwaest Toon , Campagnola Mauro , Saponieri Alessandra
Published: January 2021

Design criteria for coastal defenses exposed to wave overtopping are usually restricted to the assessment of mean discharges and maximum individual overtopping volumes, however it is not possible to give unambiguous or precise limits to tolerable overtopping for all kind of layouts (EurOtop, 2018). A few studies (e.g. Endoh and Takahashi, 1994) analyzed the relationship between wave overtopping flows and hazard levels for people at the crest of sea dikes. Sandoval (2016) confirmed that one single value of admissible mean discharge or individual overtopping volume is not a sufficient indicator of the hazard, but detailed characterization of flow velocities and depths is required. This work presents the results of an experimental campaign aiming at characterizing the flow characteristics associated to maximum individual overtopping volumes for an urbanized stretch of a town along the Catalan coast, where a bike path and a railway run along the coastline, exposed to significant overtopping events every stormy season.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/DwVl9wFJoq0
OPTIMIZED ROCK GROYNE DESIGN FOR LONG-PERIODIC SHIP WAVE LOADS
Authors: Melling Gregor , Jansch Hanne , Holzwarth Ingrid
Published: January 2021

Increased severity of damage to estuarine rock structures have been observed across the major German estuaries during the past two decades. These damages are predominantly caused by long-period primary ship waves, which can result in load cases that are particularly erosive to the rock armour layer. To date no design methods exists to dimension structures for long-period ship wave loads. This study presents an innovative groyne design optimized for resistance to ship-induced waves. During a field trial data were collected which allow for the characterisation of wave-structure-interaction as well as loads and damage parameters for the future development of validated design methods.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/FnrU8AKBITo
WAVE RUN-UP AND OVERTOPPING IN RUBBLE-MOUND BREAKWATERS UNDER OBLIQUE WAVE INCIDENCE
Authors: Reis Maria Teresa , Santos Joao Alfredo , Fortes Conceicao Juana , Lemos Rute , Carvalho Rita , Pohl Reinhardt , Bjornschein Antje
Published: January 2021

The existing data gaps triggered the interest in developing the present experimental work, whose main goal is to contribute to a new whole understanding of the phenomena to mitigate future sea level rise impacts in European coastal structures, including the run-up and overtopping characterization on rough and permeable slopes. The key point is to extend the range of wave steepness values in run-up, overtopping and armour layer stability studies, focusing on oblique extreme wave conditions and on their effects on a sloping breakwater's trunk armour and roundhead.

Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/sHxoaocYuL0
NUMERICAL MODELLING OF LARGE-SCALE COASTAL WAVE IMPACTS IN SHALLOW FORESHORE CONDITIONS
Authors: Gruwez Vincent , Altomare Corrado , Suzuki Tomohiro , Streicher Maximilian , Cappietti Lorenzo , Kortenhaus Andreas , Troch Peter
Published: January 2021

Three open-source CFD models are applied to reproduce large-scale experiments of coastal wave impacts in shallow foreshore conditions: (1) a RANS model (OpenFOAM), (2) a weakly compressible SPH model (DualSPHysics), and (3) a non-hydrostatic NLSW equations model (SWASH). An inter-model comparison is done both qualitatively (time series, snapshots) and quantitatively (model performance and pattern statistics) to determine their practical applicability for this case.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/lOBMI8HGACs
ARPEC: A NOVEL STAGGERED PERFORATED CAISSON FOR WAVE ABSORPTION AND TIDAL FLUSHING
Authors: Sammarco Paolo , Franco Leopoldo , Bellotti Giorgio , Cecioni Claudia , DeFinis Stefano
Published: January 2021

An innovative caisson breakwater geometry (patent pending) named "ARPEC" (Anti Reflective PErmeable Caisson) includes openings at all external and internal walls and at lateral (cross) ones, yet in a staggered pattern, to provide a labyrinthian hydraulic communication between the open sea and the internal waters. The complex sinuous water-flow within the consecutive permeable chambers thus favors wave energy dissipation as well as port water flushing and quality, with very low reflection and transmission coefficients. 2D lab model tests demonstrate the system effectiveness.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/PaUsinYO-Zo
WAVE TRANSFORMATION OVER A STEEP COMPOSITE BREAKWATER, IN-SITU EXPERIMENT RESULTS
Authors: PIerre-Antoine Poncet  , Damien Sous  , Abadie Stephane
Published: January 2021

Wave impact has been identified as the main source of failure for coastal breakwater. While wave transformation over low to mild sloping beaches have been widely studied, shoaling, breaking, reflection and dissipation over steep and very rough slopes are much less documented, especially in situ. The Artha breakwater, south-west of France, is a composite breakwater sitting on top of a complex, steep bathymetry. The results of in-situ measurement of wave transformation in the block armor of this structure are presented here.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/T8IINpfcPUM
CALCULATION METHOD OF UPLIFT FORCES AT PIER BASED ON GAS-LIQUID PHASE FLOW MODEL
Authors: Okamoto Daishi , Ookubo Hiroshi , Kasahara Hirotsugu , Nakamura Naoyuki , Watanabe Masashi , Arikawa Taro
Published: January 2021

Seaside facilities such as pier are affected by uplift forces due to storm surge and waves caused by typhoons. Therefore, detailed knowledge of external force is required for designing the pier (Tanimoto et al., 1978). Previously, the elucidation of the uplift forces and the shock wave pressure has been a major issue. Indeed, it has been clarified by experiments. Bagnold (1939) conducted an experimental study for revealing the relationship between the air layer and the pressure value, and found that air, which is a compressible fluid, reduces the pressure value. Furthermore, air has the effect for prolonging the action time. Arikawa and Yamano (2009) conducted the numerical simulation of shock breaking wave pressure by considering the inclusion of gas, and it was shown that the shock wave pressure after breaking wave can be reproduced. However, there are few cases that numerical calculation is considered for phenomena such as lifting pressure that are greatly affected by air. In this research, reproduction calculation of experiment was performed using numerical calculation for incompressible fluid. In addition, we will make a hole in the slab for calculation and investigate how the uplift forces changes.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/0o5GGt442jU
COASTAL CONCRETE STRUCTURE DESIGN AGAINST DESTRUCTION BY IMPULSIVE WAVE
Authors: Ando Kei , Suzuki Kojiro , Mori Nobuhito
Published: January 2021

The design method for impulsive wave pressure with very short duration time is important to prevent material destruction but is not establish yet, though there is a possibility that the coastal concrete structures will be destroyed by waves or tsunami. In this study, we proposed a simple method to design structure for impulsive wave pressure and confirmed the validity of this method by large flume experiments. A simple evaluation of impact response in a single mass system problem was applied. The ratio of duration time and natural period determines whether to examine by impulse damage or dynamic expansion. In the latter case, Mstatic times Lmax is compared with the bending strength. By this method, we can evaluate simply without dynamic analysis.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/4h5pOHM-Jco
LOADING AND STRUCTURAL RESPONSE OF DEVELOPED SHORELINES UNDER WAVES, SURGE, AND TSUNAMI OVERLAND FLOW HAZARDS
Authors: Lomonaco Pedro , Barbosa Andre , Cox Dan , Johnson Tori , Keen Adam , Kennedy Andrew , Lynett Patrick , Barra Joaquin Moris , Park Hyoungsu , Shin Sungwon
Published: January 2021

Inundation from storms like Hurricanes Katrina and Sandy, and the 2011 East Japan tsunami, have caused catastrophic damage to coastal communities. Prediction of surge, wave, and tsunami flow transformation over the built and natural environment is essential in determining survival and failure of near-coast structures. However, unlike earthquake and wind hazards, overland flow event loading and damage often vary strongly at a parcel scale in built-up coastal regions due to the influence of nearby structures and vegetation on hydrodynamic transformation. Additionally, overland flow hydrodynamics and loading are presently treated using a variety of simplified methods (e.g. bare earth method) which introduce significant uncertainty and/or bias. This study describes an extensive series of large-scale experiments to create a comprehensive dataset of detailed hydrodynamics and forces on an array of coastal structures (representing buildings of a community on a barrier island) subject to the variability of storm waves, surge, and tsunami, incorporating the effect of overland flow, 3D flow alteration due to near-structure shielding, vegetation, waterborne debris, and building damage.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/EDLiEK6b64E
SCALE-MODEL TESTS OF A MOORED TANKER AT LEIXOES PORT WITH BREAKWATER'S EXTENSION
Authors: Pinheiro Liliana , Abdelwahab Hossam , Santos Joao A. , Fortes Conceicao , Soares Carlos Guedes
Published: January 2021

This paper describes the physical model, experimental setup and tests performed to study the motions and forces of a ship moored to the pier A at the Leixoes oil terminal, following the breakwater's extension at 300m, for different sea states. The Leixoes port layout was implemented at scale 1:80 with the detailed model similar to the prototype bathymetry and surrounding structures. The moored ship is a scale model of an oil tanker with a total length of 3.43 m and 0.135 m draft.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/ny5ByZtdjTs
DEVELOPMENT OF WAVE POWER GENERATION SYSTEM SUITABLE FOR INNER BAY
Authors: Rioko Hirota  , Takaaki Shigematsu  , Kenji Katoh  , Tatsuro Wakimoto  , Yoshioka Shinya
Published: January 2021

With the increasing demand for renewable energy in the world, research contributing to the improvement of the technology level of wave power generation is essential. The authors have been developed a wave power generation system using port facilities in inner bays with high energy-consuming cities. In this study, the relationship between the rotational characteristics of a Savonius water turbine and the water particle velocity was quantitatively evaluated under the calm conditions of the inner bay, such as wave motion, flow, and coexistence of wave and current. According to the experimental results, it is found that the relationship between the rotational circumferential speed and the water particle velocity of the water turbine installed in a wave field tends to be different from that in a flow field and is evaluated by different equations. In addition, the relationship between circumferential velocity and the water particle velocity has also been formulated when installed in a wave-current coexistence field.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/KX0XBFuao48
STABILITY OF HIGH DENSITY CUBES IN RUBBLE MOUND BREAKWATERS
Authors: Yuksel Yalcin , Gent Marcel van , Cevik Esin , Kaya H. Alper , Gumuscu Irem , Yuksel Z. Tugce , Yalciner Ahmet Cevdet
Published: January 2021

The stability number for rubble mound breakwaters is a function of several parameters and depends on unit shape, placing method, slope angle, relative density, etc. In this study two different densities for cubes in breakwater armour layers were tested to determine the influence of the density on the stability. The experimental results show that the stability of high density blocks were found to be more stable and the damage initiation for high density blocks started at higher stability numbers compared to normal density cubes.
WAVE OVERTOPPING AT VERTICAL STRUCTURES: COMPARISON OF DIFFERENT FORMULAS
Authors: Shaeri Saeed , Etemad-Shahidi Amir , Shabnam Hosseinzadeh
Published: January 2021

Wave overtopping is considered an important aspect when designing waterfront or sea-defense structures, making it a part of any design to predict the overtopping rate. Because overtopping is quite a complex phenomenon, most of the previous studies were focused on deriving empirical formulas using data collected from laboratory tests. This paper, in particular, deals with the estimation of overtopping at vertical structures and considers four of the existing methods to compare their performance using the European Overtopping Manual (i.e. EurOtop) database.

Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/iGwh_TZuc6M
A NEW REDUCTIVE FACTOR FOR THE WAVE OVERTOPPING DISCHARGE AT CROWN WALLS BASED ON GENETIC PROGRAMMING
Authors: Formentin Sara Mizar , Zanuttigh Barbara
Published: January 2021

The upgrade of existing coastal defense structures by including crown walls and parapets may represent an effective and economic solution to reduce the wave overtopping discharge. Recently, a coefficient gs_GP for the parametrization of the effects induced by berms or promenades, crown walls and parapets on the average q has been developed. The formula for gs_GP was obtained from the Genetic Programming (GP) technique and was conceived to be included in the q formulae by EurOtop Manual (2018). The formula has been applied so far only to smooth dikes with crown walls. The aim of this contribution is to investigate the extension of the formula for gs_GP to a wider range of coastal structures, such as crown walls on top of rubble mound breakwaters and vertical seawalls. The ultimate objective is to provide a new design factor to be used in the EurOtop formulae.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/2xWPJeXPRco
PHYSICAL MODEL INVESTIGATION OF PARCEL SCALE MANGROVE EFFECTS ON FLOW HYDRODYNAMICS AND PRESSURES AND LOADS IN THE BUILT ENVIRONMENT
Authors: Tomiczek Tori , Wargula Anna , Lomonaco Pedro , Goodwin Sabella , Cox Dan , Kennedy Andrew , Lynett Patrick
Published: January 2021

Rising seas, tropical cyclones, and tsunamis threaten increasingly populated coastal areas, leaving coastal communities searching for sustainable, resilient adaptation solutions to mitigate the impacts of chronic and acute coastal flood hazards. This work specifically investigates parcel-scale effects of the Rhizophora mangle (red mangrove) species during extreme wave and/or storm surge conditions. We constructed 100 physical models of the Rhizophora species' trunk-prop root system on a 1:16 scale, and conducted tests in Oregon State University's Directional Wave Basin to measure the effects of mangroves of varying cross-shore thickness on water surface elevation, water velocities, and load reduction on idealized inland structural elements. The presence of mangroves affected hydrodynamic conditions near the mangroves and reduced pressures and forces on inland structures.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/XjtCmHYvgVQ
FUTURE CHANGES IN SPECTRAL WAVE CLIMATE AROUND JAPAN UNDER GLOBAL WARMING
Authors: Shimura Tomoya , Mori Nobuhito
Published: January 2021

Future projections of ocean wave climate related with global warming has been conducted for the assessment of climate change impacts on coastal disaster, beach morphology, and coastal structure design. In this study, we conduct the high-resolution future wave climate projection in the East Asia region and detail analysis on wave climate based on two-dimensional wave spectra in addition to conventional wave statistics (significant wave height). Future changes in wave height, period and direction can be discussed consistently owing to analysis on the mean wave spectra.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/FEYPZFRr5SQ
A GPU-ACCELERATED MODELING OF SCALAR TRANSPORT BASED ON BOUSSINESQ-TYPE EQUATIONS
Authors: Hwang Sooncheol , Son Sangyoung , Lynett Patrick J.
Published: January 2021

This paper describes a two-dimensional scalar transport model solving advection-diffusion equation based on GPU-accelerated Boussinesq model called Celeris. Celeris is the firstly-developed Boussinesq-type model that is equipped with an interactive system between user and computing unit. Celeris provides greatly advantageous user-interface that one can change not only water level, topography but also model parameters while the simulation is running. In this study, an advection-diffusion equation for scalar transport was coupled with extended Boussinesq equations to simulate scalar transport in the nearshore.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/aHvMmdz3wps
REGULAR WAVE EFFECTS ON NEGATIVELY BUOYANT JETS
Authors: Valizadeh Alireza , Antenucci Jason P. , Griffith Grant
Published: January 2021

Seawater desalination is an increasingly important technology in the supply of potable water to municipal communities. Brine created by this process is typically released back to the ocean via a nearshore diffuser into a wave-exposed climate. Despite this, little work has been published on the effect of waves on negatively buoyant jets. In this paper we outline the literature on this topic and the results of a series of computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulations that address the role of regular waves on negatively buoyant jets.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/0085wAVVybc
AN INTERNAL WAVE GENERATION METHOD FOR THE NON-HYDROSTATIC MODEL SWASH
Authors: Vasarmidis Panagiotis , Stratigaki Vasiliki , Suzuki Tomohiro , Zijlema Marcel , Troch Peter
Published: January 2021

Numerical wave propagation models are commonly used as engineering tools for the study of wave transformation in coastal areas. In order to simulate waves in the nearshore zone correctly, the generation and absorption of waves at the boundaries of the models need to be modelled accurately. In numerical models, incident waves are usually generated by prescribing their horizontal velocity component at the boundary of the computational domain over the vertical direction. Additionally, in order to absorb and to prevent re-reflections in front of the numerical wave generator, a weakly reflective wave generation boundary condition is applied in which the total velocity signal is a superposition of the incident velocity signal and a velocity signal of the reflected waves. However, this method is based on the assumption that the reflected waves are small amplitude shallow water waves propagating perpendicular to the boundary of the computational domain and hence this method is weakly reflective for directional and dispersive waves. Within the present study, an internal wave generation method combined with sponge layers is applied in the non-hydrostatic model SWASH, in order to more accurately generate waves and avoid re-reflections at the boundaries.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/5M3aU03XJvI
ADVANCED MODELLING OF WAVE PENETRATION IN PORTS
Authors: Maroudi Konstantina Aikaterini , Reijmerink Sebastiaan P.
Published: January 2021

Wave penetration is a challenge for port engineers as it governs vessels' safe sailing and mooring and unequivocally regulates the handling of port operations. A complete way to describe this phenomenon is by a physical scale model. However, this approach can be time consuming and expensive, therefore the use of a numerical model is a valid alternative. In this study, wave penetration is simulated with the non-hydrostatic model SWASH (Zijlema, 2011). To validate the model, the output of an open benchmark dataset of physical scale model tests (Van der Ven, 2018) is used. This study evaluates to what degree SWASH models correctly simulate wave penetration per wave process, separately in simplified models and in combination in the full harbour layout, to identify their role in the model accuracy.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/Y8ds-sW4VIQ
FIELD MEASUREMENTS OF VERY OBLIQUE WAVE RUN-UP AND OVERTOPPING WITH LASER SCANNERS
Authors: Oosterlo Patrick , Hofland Bas , Meer Jentsje W. van der , Overduin Maarten , Steendam Gosse Jan
Published: January 2021

Oosterlo et al. (2019) developed a system using two terrestrial laser scanners, which can measure run-up heights, depths and velocities of waves on a dike in field situations. The system has now been placed next to two overtopping tanks on a dike in the Eems-Dollard estuary in the Netherlands to measure during actual severe winter storms. The goal of the present paper is to further validate this innovative system with data obtained during storm Ciara (10 - 12 February 2020), a severe winter storm with very oblique wave attack. Furthermore, the data gathered during storm Ciara will be compared to the current knowledge on wave overtopping, to possibly gain new insights in the influence of very oblique wave attack on wave overtopping.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/TwSwJuxb-Yo
CLIMATE VARIABILITY INDUCED SHIFTS OF THE WAVE CLIMATE IN MEXICO
Authors: Silva Rodolfo , Oderiz Itxaso , Mortlock Thomas , Marino-Tapia Ismael
Published: January 2021

Inter-annual variability of wave climates is important for coastal risk assessment because these fluctuations can increase or decrease seasonal erosion risk (Wahl and Plant 2015). Understanding how long-term variability affects the seasonality of sediment transport is an important challenge in risk assessments (Toimil et al. 2020). There have been many attempts to quantify long-term variability in offshore wave climate, as this is the primary driver of coastal processes on sandy coasts. However, there is very little work on how the long-term variability of wave climate influences sediment transport. One of the most important drivers of sediment transport is the mean wave direction of incoming waves (Barnard et al. 2015; Hemer, Church, and Hunter 2010; Morim et al. 2019), although it is still not fully understood. An important contribution in this regard is the work of (Barnard et al. 2015), who found that El Nio Southern Oscillation (ENSO) dominates coastal vulnerability in the Pacific Ocean. On the other hand, several works at global scale (Godoi and Torres Junior 2020; Reguero, Losada, and Mendez 2019; Stopa and Cheung 2014) have found that ENSO is the climatic driver that most affects the interannual variability of the wave climate. However, understanding how ENSO impacts wave direction is still lacking.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/_M5Mxm7PnQg
VEGETATED HYDRODYNAMIC SYSTEM: PARAMETERIZATION AND STOCHASTIC DEPENDENCE MODELLING
Authors: Niazi Muhammad Hassan Khan , Nápoles Oswaldo Morales , Van Wesenbeeck Bregje K.
Published: January 2021

Vegetation as a nature-based solution for increasing flood risk has convincingly shown potential for flood hazard (wave load) reduction but lacks generalized results. In this study we have introduced stochastic dependence modeling using non-parametric Bayesian networks (NPBN) for vegetated coastal systems where the system was parametrized using continuous marginal distributions, and likely (conditional) correlations among variables. The model represented a consistent joint probability distribution and hence can be used to generate physically realistic conditions in data-scare environments. It adds value to numerical modeling by reducing the number of simulations required to get meaningful generalized results. Main findings, that were derived by using a NPBN, help to pave way for implementation of nature-based solutions for a range of realistic conditions that can be found across global coastal foreshores.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/T6TP0DH0qMw
BATHYMETRY INVERSION IN THE SURF ZONE VIA ASSIMILATION OF REMOTELY SENSED WAVE BREAKING ENERGY DISSIPATION
Authors: Soto Francisco , Catalan Patricio
Published: January 2021

In this work, a data assimilation approach treating bathymetry as an uncertain model parameter, is introduced where direct dissipation estimates from remote sensing data are the unique data source. Two dimensional wave breaking dissipation fields are retrieved on a wave-by-wave basis with the algorithms of Daz et al. (2018), who were able to reliably estimate breaking dissipation by removing spurious signals affecting electro-optical and microwave data. After a six hour application, the system was able to retrieve improved bathymetric estimates, without any in situ depth measurement. A prominent feature of this approach is its ability to reliably capture the amplitude and position of nearshore sandbars.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/Y7mgiSvmRYc
WAVE RUNUP ON AN ARRAY OF STRUCTURES DUE TO A SOLITARY WAVE INTERACTING WITH STEADY CURRENTS
Authors: Sogut Deniz Velioglu , Sogut Erdinc , Farhadzadeh Ali
Published: January 2021

The present study investigates the runup patterns formed during the interactions of a solitary wave with an array of idealized structures in the presence of following and opposing steady current flows. A series of experiments were performed at Coastal and Hydraulic Engineering Research Laboratory (CHERL) of Stony Brook University. A solitary wave of 0.1 m high was considered to interact with an array of idealized buildings on a beach berm. The wave was generated in the flume in the absence and presence of steady currents. Two different steady current velocities, one weaker and the other stronger, were generated using the flume flow recirculation system.
UNCERTAINTY ASSESSMENT OF FUTURE CHANGE PROJECTION TO TYPHOON PROPERTIES AND MAXIMUM STORM SURGE HEIGHT DEPENDING OF FUTURE SEA SURFACE TEMPERATURE AND GREENHOUSE GAS EMISSION SCENARIOS
Authors: Yang Jung-A , Kim Sooyoul , Son Sangyoung , Mase Hajime , Mori Nobuhito
Published: January 2021

In order to evaluate the future storm surge risk at the national scale, it is necessary to evaluate typhoon characteristics for a country-specific in prior to conducting storm surge simulation using them. When projecting future changes of tropical cyclones (TC) by using the atmospheric general circulation model (AGCM), there are several uncertainties due to model resolution, model physics parameterization, given sea surface temperature (SST) under future climate condition, and global warming scenarios. The uncertainties stemming from physics and numerical modeling configuration can be reduced by improving the accuracy of AGCMs, while those from the global warming scenario and future SST condition are unable to be. This study assessed uncertainties in projecting future change to typhoon properties such as tracks, frequency and intensity and extreme storm surge height (SSH) depending of future SST and greenhouse gas emission scenarios.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/Wzp35k4tyhM
ALTERNATIVE IMAGE STABILIZATION METHOD FOR COASTAL VIDEO MONITORING SYSTEMS
Authors: Rodriguez-Padilla Isaac , Castelle Bruno , Marieu Vincent , Morichon Denis
Published: January 2021

The use of shore-based video systems has become a very popular and accessible low-cost tool for coastal monitoring given their capability to deliver continuous and high-resolution temporal data over large enough spatial scales. However, the reliability of the final image products can be compromised by external factors, sometimes overlooked, that can alter the image geometry over time. In particular, unwanted camera movement, produced either by thermal or mechanical effects, can lead to significant geo-rectification errors if not properly corrected. This study addresses an alternative straightforward method to stabilize an either continuous or subsampled image sequence based on state-of-the-art techniques and available routines.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/xX1CrvPQpK8
A UAV-RTK-LIDAR SYSTEM MEASUREMENTS OF WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION OVER A SANDY BEACH AND AN ALGAL-REEF AREA
Authors: Yeh Cheng-yang , Huang Zhi-Cheng
Published: January 2021

Wave energy dissipation is a significant factor affecting coastal hydrodynamics, coastline morphology, wave height transformation, and the nutrient uptake in the coral reef (Huang, Lenain et al. 2012). However, it is difficult to be measured since accurate and spatial-distributed measurements of sea surface elevations are required to compute this quantity. We used a UAV-RTK-Lidar system to test the possibility for the measurements of wave energy dissipation. The UAV system was validated to able to measure the ocean wave properties (Huang, Yeh et al. 2018). Two field experiments of measuring energy dissipation were conducted over an algal-reef and a sandy beach site, respectively. Nine and eight flights of UAV measurements on the algal reef and sandy beach were conducted for one tidal cycle. The measurements of wave properties by UAV were compared with those of in-situ instruments using pressure sensors.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/fBLbsBuK4AA
WAVE INTERACTIONS WITH SUBMERGED HORIZONTAL FLEXIBLE BREAKWATERS
Authors: K Dharma Sree K , Mandal Sourav , Law Adrian Wing-Keung
Published: January 2021

With the ongoing sea-level rise associated with climate changes, coastline protection is among the top priorities of national interest for many countries across the globe, and particularly those in Southeast Asia with extended shorelines, and submerged horizontal plate breakwaters (SHPB) have been proposed as a possible measure for shoreline protection in the literature. Most of the earlier research works considers the material for the SHPB to be either rigid or elastic sheets (with and without perforations) (Patarapanich, 1984, Heins 1950). The wave modulation due to the presence of such structures is thus predominantly due to wave interactions, edge reflection and turbulence. In this paper, we extend the earlier works and consider the viscoelastic properties for the flexible SHPB (which can better represent the possible damping introduced in the field conditions) both experimentally and analytically.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/l92umh2KnYY
CHARACTERISING COASTAL SHELF WAVES ALONG THE NSW COAST
Authors: Viola Cristina , Verdon-Kidd Danielle , Power Hannah
Published: January 2021

New South Wales (NSW) often experiences periods of coastal inundation and estuarine flooding. One of the causal mechanisms of these episodes are coastal shelf waves (CSW), generated by synoptic disturbances (Church et al., 2006). CSWs in Australia often result from wind stress, mostly along mid-latitudes (e.g., the Great Australian Bight) and propagate anticlockwise (Woodham et al., 2013). However, there are no tools available for identifying and characterising CSWs and as such there is very little information on the magnitude, frequency, duration, and spatiotemporal variability. This paper aims to: (1) develop a method to identify and track CSWs using the existing ocean tide gauge network, (2) identify patterns in the frequency, duration, and magnitude of CSW, and (3) assess the factors that affect the frequency, duration, and magnitude of CSWs along the NSW coast.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/oigzYIKFBmA
WAVE TRANSFORMATION WITHIN A CORAL REEF LAGOON SYSTEM, ERAKOR LAGOON, VANUATU
Authors: Faivre Gaelle , Lagrabe Oriane , Kotra Krishna , Tomlinson Rodger , Mackey Brendan , Zhang Hong
Published: January 2021

Coral reefs encircle most of the islands in Vanuatu and provide natural breakwaters for coastal communities by reducing wave energy arriving at the shoreline acting to control both inundation and erosion. Climate Change is projected to both exacerbate coastal hazards and endanger corals. The aim of this paper is to better understand the parameters that govern hydrodynamics on fringing reef systems. The interaction between the depth, waves and currents are studied from measurements conducted in Erakor lagoon, Vanuatu.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/mPrG6NWL4dM
EVOLUTION OF HIGH-ORDER NONLINEAR PROPERTY USING SPATIAL DEVELOPING NONLINEAR SCHRODINGER EQUATION IN INTERMEDIATE WATER
Authors: Kashima Hiroaki , Mori Nobuhito
Published: January 2021

In the last two decades, the extreme wave occurrence, its understanding and prediction in deep water become getting clear. However, there are a few studies about the extreme wave occurrence in intermediate water. The authors reported that the appropriate higher-order nonlinear correction is essential to estimate the extreme wave occurrence using the standard Boussinesq equation. Therefore, the other numerical tool such as nonlinear Schrodinger equation (NLS) will be required from the point of view of the direct extreme wave modeling in intermediate water. The purpose of this study is to investigate the evolution of the high-order nonlinear property in intermediate water using the spatial developing nonlinear Schrodinger equation (SD-NLS) for the deep-water generating extreme wave modeling.
DATA-MODEL COMPARISONS OF STORM PROCESSES DURING HURRICANE HARVEY
Authors: Anarde Katherine , Figlus Jens , Cheng Wei , Horrillo Juan , Tissier Marion , Lynett Patrick , Shi Fengyan
Published: January 2021

During tropical cyclones, processes including dune erosion, overwash, inundation, and storm-surge ebb can rapidly reshape barrier islands, thereby increasing coastal hazards and flood exposure inland. Relatively few measurements are available to evaluate the physical processes shaping coastal systems close to shore during these extreme events as it is inherently challenging to obtain reliable field data due to energetic waves and rapid bed level changes which can damage or shift instrumentation. However, such observations are critical toward improving and validating model forecasts of coastal storm hazards. To address these data and knowledge gaps, this study links hydrodynamic and meteorological observations with numerical modeling to 1) perform data-model inter-comparisons of relevant storm processes, namely infragravity (IG) waves, storm surge, and meteotsunamis; and 2) better understand the relative importance of each of these processes during hurricane impact.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/kUizy8nK3TU
BENEFITS AND LIMITATIONS OF A COUPLED WAVE-SURGE MODEL FOR AUSTRALIAN EXTREMES
Authors: Hetzel Yasha , Janekovic Ivica , Pattiaratchi Charitha
Published: January 2021

Extreme sea levels result from a combination of a range of factors that include long term mean sea level variability, astronomical tides, storm surges due to atmospheric pressure and wind, wave breaking, and other regional dynamics. Numerical circulation/storm-surge models are frequently used to predict water levels over broad areas with the outputs used for planning or emergency management applications. Recently, coupled wave-circulation models have been shown to improve extreme sea level predictions through the inclusion of wave setup that results from the transfer of momentum of breaking waves into sea level at the shoreline. Other studies have shown that the representations of surface wind drag can be improved when the sea state is considered, and this can directly influence the amplitude of storm surges at the coast. However, most coupled wave-circulation model studies have been undertaken for relatively small computational domains and for a limited range of coastal morphologies and storm types. In this paper we assess the benefits and limitations of using a coupled wave-circulation model to predict extreme sea levels and determine wave effects for a broad range of coastal morphologies and extreme storm events all around Australia. Simulated events occurred in three oceans and considered tropical cyclones, a cyclone undergoing extratropical transition, and a large mid-latitude extratropical low-pressure system.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/UfyWHI4OHBA