bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
The Modification of Wool Fabric by Certain Organic Sorbates
Authors: Griffith June C.
Published: March 2007

Organic sorbates, chiefly sulfate and sulfonate derivatives, when adsorbed by wool from aqueous solution decreased the amount of water the fabric would absorb subse quently. The thermodynamic parameters for the adsorption of one of the sorbates have been obtained and compared with those for other protein/detergent systems. The over all change in standard entropy of adsorption is positive ; the interpretation of this is that dye adsorption is accompanied by water desorption, leading to an increase in entropy. As the amount of sorbate incorporated into the wool increases, the amount of water desorbed increases. The sorbate is not readily desorbed when the treated fabric is sub sequently exposed to water and, hence, the change in entropy for the sorption of water by the treated fabric will be different from the corresponding change for the untreated fabric. This factor should be considered in discussion of the regain of treated fabric.

It was not possible to compare the water-sorption properties of all the treated fabrics on the basis of the molar concentration of the additive. Where comparisons could be made, it was evident that those additives containing the highest percentage of alkyl chain per molecule produced the greatest lowering of regain in the hydration region of the sorption isotherm and, therefore, presumably the greatest decrease in the polar nature of the wool. It is suggested that the decrease in saturation regain of the treated fabrics is analogous to the precipitation of water-insoluble anionic detergent/protein complexes.
Stiffness, An Important Factor in the Abrasion Performance of Durable-Press Cottons 1
Authors: Harper Robert J. , Blanchard Eugene J. , Lofton John T. , Gautreaux Gloria A.
Published: March 2007

Two series of durable-press cuffs, prepared from several fabrics, showed a wide variation in abrasion resistance. This variation was observed when all the fabrics were finished with the same technique. One series of fabrics was finished with a conventional pad-bath treatment, the other was finished with a combination treatment of polyurethane and cross-linking agent. The one characteristic of all fabrics found to possess good abrasion resistance was a low value of bending moment or fabric stiffness. With one soft fabric, a number of treatments using a pad application of polyurethane, followed by either a pad or preferential back coat with a cross-linking agent, led to cuffs with an average, conditioned wrinkle recovery (first and thirtieth washes) of more than 300°, with no apparent damage after 30 laundry cycles in one test and after 50 laundry cycles in another test. The effect of pretreatments, such as mercerization or washing, on fabric stiffness and abrasion performance was shown to be that those which softened the fabric improved fabric abrasion resistance.
Improved Abrasion Resistance Through Internal Lubrication
Authors: Chipalkatti V.B. , Sattur N.B. , Husain I. , Bajaj P.
Published: March 2007

, The cross-linking reaction of cellulose with lauroyl and stearoyl ester is described. With increasing number of carbon atoms in the ester substituent, the reactivity and wet crease recovery decreased. There is an improvement in tear and abrasion resistance and, with stearoyl ester, a remarkable improvement (5 to 20 times) in flex abrasion resistance. The tear resistance, however, is improved only to the extent of 10% to 50%. By using a modified microscopic count technique and a polarizing microscope, it is shown that the cellulose is cross-linked. The degree of insolubility in cuprithylene diamine is proportional to the degree of cross-linking.

Bulk scale application of stearoyl dichloropropanol (DCP) to two fabrics, viz, medium and superfine poplins, has been done. An improvement in abrasion resistance of about 500% to 800% and tear resistance of 20% to 50% has been recorded. The finish is stable to mild laundering, boiling 0.5 N aqueous caustic soda, and boiling 0.5% non-ionic detergent. However, boiling solutions of soap (0.5%) and soda (0.2%) hydrolyze the ester-link, though the cross-linking is still unaffected.

The treated fabrics are suitable base materials for wash-wear treatment and it is possible to obtain wash-wear fabrics with abrasion resistance equivalent to or higher than the starting material.

Some data on field wear trials of SDCP-treated fabrics are presented and discussed.

It is concluded that the idea of providing internal or built-in lubrication by the use of three carbon cross links, with a bulky substituent at the center, may open up a new approach to enhance the abrasion resistance of cotton and other cellulosic textiles.
Non-Reactive and Co-Reactive Additives in Cotton Cross-Linking
Authors: Valko Emery I. , Olds Walter F. , Tovey Henry
Published: March 2007

Various modifications of the double-cure process for producing durable-press cotton are described. These include the use of moderately volatile additives for the simpli fication of the process and the use of co-reactive additives for the improvement of strength retention of the finished fabric. Several different compounds containing reactive hydro gen were investigated as co-reactants and it was found that high dry and wet wrinkle recovery can be obtained in their presence by increasing the concentration of the cross linking agent. With certain polyethylene glycols and ethoxylated higher alkyl diamines, high dry and wet wrinkle recoveries were obtained and substantial improvement of the flex abrasion resistance was achieved, in many cases surpassing that of the untreated fabric. It was found that the co-reactants can be used for the double-cure process with or without non-reactive additives.
New Catalysts for Resin Finishing
Authors: Burkitt F.H. , Ryan J.J. , Tattersal R. , Taylor P.J.
Published: March 2007

The chemical characteristics of a new class of catalysts have been investigated. The development of acidity has been shown to depend only on the catalyst concentra tion—a mechanism which gives the new catalysts special advantages in resin finishing.

Another group of catalysts based on sulfonium compounds has also been developed. They have been shown to possess a "trigger" temperature, but the mechanistn of their behavior is obscure.
Capillary Sorption Equilibria in Fiber Masses
Authors: Burgeni A.A. , Kapur C.
Published: March 2007

, Phenomena related to the equilibrium take-up and retention of fluid in porous media can be explained and predicted in terms of the capillary sorption cycle (CSC) formed by the absorption and exsorption isotherms. An experimental method is described for determining the CSC as well as the simultaneous changes in the bulk volume of the porous medium as it cycles between 0 and 100% fill-up. The complex shape of the CSC and the, sometimes highly significant, differences between the first and all subse quent cycles can be explained in terms of the mechanism which causes volume changes. The method of analysis provides a tool for investigating the capillary sorption proper ties of heteroporous media, such as fiber masses of different composition, structure, and bulk density. This has been demonstrated by applying the criteria of sorption equi librium to phenomena related to the spontaneous fill-up and capillary transfer of fluid in the pore system of fiber masses.
Reaction of a Diisocyanate with Cotton to Produce Wash-Wear Fabrics
Authors: Verburg Gerald B. , Snowden Frank W.
Published: March 2007

The effects of time, temperature, concentration, and catalyst on the reaction between cotton fabric and bis(4-isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane in N,N-dimethylformamide have been studied. The reaction was carried out without pretreatment of the fabric or the reagents used. Diisocyanate-treated fabrics possess high wrinkle-recovery angles with moderate losses in tearing strength and abrasion resistance. The treatment produced fabrics that were resistant to acidic and basic hydrolysis, chlorine damage, rot, and degradation from repeated home laundering. The abrasion resistance and tearing strength of the treated fabrics were significantly improved when n-octadecylisocyanate was used as a co-reactant.
The Effect of Machine Action on Soil Removal from Wool During Laundering
Authors: Brooks J.H. , McPhee J.R.
Published: March 2007

Two artificial soils were most effectively removed from wool in an impeller-type machine, but, considering their greatly different effects on felting rate, the differences in efficiency of all the machines studied were relatively small. A rotating-drum machine was almost as good as the impeller-type for removing a particulate soil, but was worst of all for an oily soil.

Soap removed the oily soil from both untreated and shrink-resist-treated wool more effectively than did the synthetic anionic detergents, but the order was reversed for the particulate soil.
Accessibility of Cellulose by the Thallous Ethylate Method—Application to the Measurement of Cellulose Liquid Interactions1
Authors: Minhas P.S. , Robertson A.A.
Published: March 2007

The extent of thallation of cellulose by reaction with thallous ethylate in benzene is advanced as a method for measuring the accessibility of cellulose. The method is demon strated by its application to a series of samples of fibers that have been swollen to varying degrees by immersion in different solvents and transferred by solvent exchange to ben zene. The extent of reaction is related to the swelling power of the immersion liquid and to the assumed microfibrillar structure of the fiber wall. About 14% of the hydroxyl groups are found to be accessible in water swollen cotton fibers while 0.9% are accessible in the same fibers dried from water. The measurement of accessibility of cellulose to a reagent of moderate molecular size and under conditions which do not affect the sample accessibility offers advantages over alternative methods.
Mixed-Stream Spinning of Bicomponent Fibers1
Authors: Fitzgerald W.E. , Knudsen J.P.
Published: March 2007

Studies of the flow properties of merged spinning solutions have led to new methods for spinning bicomponent acrylic fibers. The underlying principle is that two or more spinning solutions can be merged into a common-flow stream without any significant mixing between component streams. With proper control, the technique produces a flow stream with a predetermined arrangement of the component streams. The arrange ment of component streams can be very regular or seemingly random.

When a mixed-component stream is spun from a spinnerette, a bicomponent fiber is produced. The distribution of components between and along filaments is determined by the arrangement of components in the common stream and the arrangement of holes on the spinnerette. Readily controllable variations in the mixed-stream patterning and spinnerette-hole arrangement are sufficient to permit production of a whole family of bicomponent fibers, ranging from "true" conjugate (similar to those produced with conventional conjugate spinnerettes) to fibers with a truly random distribution of components.
Nonwoven Fabric Studies
Authors: Michie R.I.C. , Wilkinson J.A.
Published: March 2007

A binder latex, freshly dispersed within a fiber fleece, is mobile and subject to several disturbing influences which may cause uneven distribution of binder in the resulting fabric. Generally, latex tends to migrate to the surface of the material during drying and it is shown that in lahoratory-made fabrics this effect increases with increasing drying temperature, in accordance with the theoretical expectation. Migration can also be induced by displacement of the latex with a strong aqueous salt solution, particularly magnesium sulfate. By applying the solution at many points simultaneously, a pattern of binder distribution can be formed giving, on drying, a segmentally honded fahric.
The Effect of Solvents on Some Properties of Cotton Cellulose 1
Authors: Wiles D.M. , Cooney J.D. , Gingras B.A.
Published: March 2007

Samples of cotton duck were immersed in pyridine, aqueous methylamine solutions, and a variety of other solvents. Pyridine and methylamine caused swelling of the cellulose fibers and an increase in the moisture content of the fabric. Pyridine also increased the fabric breaking strength. This is explained in terms of enhanced plastici zation by pyridine and water molecules which are hydrogen-bonded to cellulose. Treatment by pyridine or aqueous methylamine reduced the rate of photochemical degradation of fabric samples exposed in a Weather-Ometer. An explanation for this is based on the changes these solvents cause in the fiber structure, e.g., less dense packing of cellulose chains in the swollen fibers. It is suggested that swollen fibers absorb less of the incident light from a carbon-arc and dissipate more of the absorbed energy without chain scission.
Studies of Soiling and Detergency
Authors: Grindstaff T.H. , Patterson H.T. , Billica H.R.
Published: March 2007

A study was made of the use of nonionic and anionic surfactant solutions to desorb hydrophobic and hydrophilic, particulate, carbon-14-labeled carbon from nylon, poly ethylene terephthalate, and cellulose in the form of films and fabrics. The effect of the presence of fatty soil on the removal of particulate carbon was determined. Washing variables were carefully controlled and altered one at a time to learn their effect on the soil removal process. These variables included concentration of the soil on the surface, type and concentration of the surfactant, wash temperature, and addition of bleach. Re sults are discussed in terms of possible mechanisms of soil removal.
The Dynamics of Roller Drafting
Authors: Plonsker Harvey R. , Backer Stanley
Published: March 2007

A description is given of the design and operation of a drafting force tester, with emphasis on the material and process variables which influence test results. Visual observations are reported of sliver contraction, fiber straightening, and fiber snap back. Comparison is made between the force-deformation behavior of a sliver in steady-state drafting, in an arrested-back-roller drafting test and in a conventional Instron tensile test. The deformation behavior is characterized by fiber extension, sliver consolidation, and force buildup, followed by fiber slippage and force decline. The effect of surface roughness is investigated for various test configurations. Other specific variables studied were roller separation, draft ratio, fiber crimp, and sliver processing history.
Oxidation of Formaldehyde Cross-Linked Cotton
Authors: Lewin Menachem , Weinstein Shulamit
Published: March 2007

Cross-linking with HCHO appears to exert a highly stabilizing effect on cotton fabrics, which expresses itself in greatly lowered oxidation rates with NaClO at pH 7 and in a change in the oxidation mechanisms, bringing about a smaller yield of functional groups, an increase in oxidant consumed per chain scission, i.e., a smaller degradation and smaller losses in tear and burst strength upon oxidation.

The main stabilization occurs for 0.3% to 0.9% bound HCHO, in which the largest increase in wrinkle recovery angle and the largest decrease in oxidation rates are observed, indicating that at this range interchain cross links are formed.

Upon increasing the bound HCHO level from 0.9 to 2.0%, a relatively small further decrease in oxidation rate, a small, further increase in WRA, an insignificant increase in amount of oxidant per chain scission, but a drastic reduction in the number of functional groups per scission are obtained, indicating the formation of intra-AGU links. Most of the oxidation of the cotton at the 2.0% HCHO level appears to be associated directly with chain scissions occurring at the glucosidic C 1-C4 linkages, yielding aldehyde groups at C1 and ketone groups at C4.

The nitration method for the determination of the D.P. was found to be applicable to HCHO-cross-linked cottons and straight-line relationships were obtained for tear strength versus 1/D.P. for cottons containing up to 0.9% HCHO.
The Use of a Diffraction Grating as the Rubbing Surface in the Study of the Frictional Properties of Wool Fibers
Authors: Makinson K. Rachel
Published: March 2007

Diffraction gratings with saw-toothed rulings at spacings of 4 to 25 microns have been used as surfaces against which to measure the frictional coefficients of wool fibers by the capstan method. The geometrical regularity of these surfaces improves the reproducibility of measurements on individual fibers (coefficient of variation between 2% and 5%), facilitates microscopic observation of the sliding process and simplifies the geometry of the system sufficiently to permit some features of the dependence of frictional behavior on such factors as load, grating spacing, and the nature of the surrounding medium to be explained. Some values of the coefficients in air and in soap solution are reported and discussed.
The Action of Periodic Acid and its Salts on Wool
Authors: Kantouch A. , Bendak A.
Published: March 2007

In the present work, the action of periodic acid and periodate on wool was investi gated. Reaction of periodate with wool at 35°C is highly dependent on the pH of the reaction medium. Wool absorbs iodate and periodate ions and this sorption attains limiting values dependent on the pH of the reaction solution. An equilibrium takes place between sorption of periodate and desorption of iodate ions, depending mainly on the concentration of iodate ions in solution. The rate of reaction of wool with per iodate is very high at the start, but it slows down and, after a while, it attains a constant value. The rate of reaction of periodate with wool seems to be independent of the periodate concentration in the solution and depends mainly on the iodate concentration.
Wave Propagation and Dynamic Modulus in Continuous-Filament Twisted Yarns1
Authors: Zorowski C.F. , Murayama T.
Published: March 2007

An analytical and experimental study of dynamic modulus in continuous-filament twisted yarns is performed to establish how small amplitude strain waves are propagated in this type of assembly and to determine if the dynamic and static moduli, as affected by geometric twist, are related. The dynamic modul us of nylon, dacron, viscose, and acetate yarns are measured as a function of twist angle at low stress levels, using the sonic velocity pulse-propagation technique. Excellent agreement between measured and predicted results indicate that, under these test conditions, strain waves propagate as longitudinal plane waves in a linear elastic medium, and the reduction in dynamic modulus with twist is principally a geometric effect which can be predicted by using the static extension theory.
Fiber Surface Properties in Relation to Linear Assemblies During Processing1
Authors: Scardino Francis L. , Lyons W. James
Published: March 2007

This paper reports the results of processitig on the worsted system. Two model fiber samples, which differed only in surface roughness, were specially prepared and cut into lengths suitable for processing on the worsted yarn system (also for the cotton and woolen yarn systems). Static and dynamic cohesion tests on sliver and roving samples indicated that geometrically smoother fibers (those having fewer asperities on the surface) lead to greater cohesion in fiber assemblies. Similarly, in blends of smooth and rough fibers in slivers, the cohesion was found to increase consistently with increas ing percentage of smooth fibers.

As indicated by performance during opening processes, geometrically smooth fibers were found to be more difficult to separate from one another. The rougher fiber samples appeared to open much more easily and more thoroughly than the smooth sam ples in the same number of operations. In subsequent processes, the greater cohesion of the smooth samples was found to lead to reduced actual drafts under certain processing conditions.

It was found that the degree of twist normally used in staple yarns itself sufficiently restricts the relative movement of fibers to mask the direct effects of fiber surface properties under tensile load. However, results indicated that twist masks the direct effects of fiber surface properties in the yarns (at near optimum twist), but the yarns reflect in evenness, average tensile properties, and actual draft—features introduced in earlier processing.
The Problems of Textile Information Retrieval1
Authors: Backer S. , Valko E.I. , Liang M.
Published: March 2007

Many problems areas in the field of textile information are outlined. Input is considered, with emphasis on coordination with other information systems. The needs of users are considered and the nature of indexing to meet these needs. The role of a textile thesaurus in indexing and searching is described. Reference searching and the use of bibliographic data are reviewed. Directions for further study are suggested.
Fiber Surface Properties in Relation to Linear Assemblies During Processing
Authors: Scardino Francis L. , Lyons W. James
Published: March 2007

Samples of smooth and rough staple polyester fibers, serving as models, taken from linear assemblies at various stages of processing on the three important yarn systems were evaluated for surface and geometric properties. It was found that asperity count decreases substantially with successive stages of processing, indicating that processing tends to reduce surface roughness at the microscopic level. Results showed that process ing does not affect the frictional characteristics of either the smooth or rough model-fiber samples. While average staple lengths are appreciably reduced by processing on the three systems, no significant differences in this effect, as between smooth and rough fibers, were observed. In general, while it was found that both samples lost crimp during processing, there was greater crimp retention in the smooth than in the rough fibers.
The Relative Reactivities of the Hydroxyl Groups of Cotton Cellulose—A Progress Report1
Authors: Rowland S.P. , Bullock A.L. , Cirino V.O. , Roberts E.J. , Hoiness D.E. , Wade C.P. , Brannan M.A.F. , Janssen H.J. , Pittman P.F.
Published: March 2007

Major preceding studies of the distribution of substituents in cellulose have been reviewed. Over-all results indicate that the highest degree of reaction occurs at the hydroxyl group on C-2 in the case of the irreversible Williamson syntheses involving reagents of small molecular size. Pronounced preferential reaction occurs at the hy droxyl group on C-6 in the case of reversible reactions and with increasing molecular size of reagent.

The relative reactivities of the hydroxyl groups on C-2, C-3, and C-6 of the D(1→4)- β-glucopyranosyl unit of cotton cellulose have been explored with three chemical agents. Predominant reaction of cotton cellulose occurs at the primary hydroxyl group on C-6 in the case of the reversible Michael addition of methyl vinyl sulfone (i.e., 2-0- : 3-0- : 6-0- = 0.20: 0.03: 1.00), at the hydroxyl groups on C-2 and C-6 in the case of the irreversible reaction with diethylaminoethyl chloride (1.27 : 0.35 : 1.00), and at the hydroxyl groups on C-6 and C-2 in the case of the irreversible Williamson synthesis with sodium allyl sulfate (0.7:0.2:1.0). The D-(1→4)-α-glucopyranosyl unit of dextrin (employed as a soluble model compound for cellulose) undergoes reversible esterification with formic acid most rapidly and to the highest equilibrium level at the primary hydroxyl group on C-6.
Effects of Bases on the Pyrolysis of Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Mack Charles H. , Donaldson Darrell J.
Published: March 2007

Highly purified cotton cellulose, which has been impregnated with alkali metal bases or basic salts to various weight levels (up to 2% for the bases and up to 5% for the basic salts), was examined by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), differential thermal analysis (DTA), and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). All analyses were carried out under purified dry nitrogen at heating rates up to 40°/min. The enthalpies ΔH of pyrolyses, transition temperatures, and activation energies were estimated, using published methods and equations. The effect of added base, in the temperature ranges associated with cellulosic thermal degradation (> 280°C), resulted in (1) altered thermal pattern and AH of pyrolysis, (2) lowered transition temperature, (3) no change in first- order reaction kinetics (between 20-80% decomposition), (4) decreased energy of activation, (5) decreased release of "tars," and (6) increased residue (char).

These observations are interpreted to mean that the base is acting as a cellulose pyrolysis catalyst. The significance of these results is discussed in relation to recent studies of the pyrolysis of cellulose itself.
The Fractionation of the High-Sulfur Proteins from Oxidized Mohair
Authors: Swart L.S. , Joubert F.J.
Published: March 2007

The high-sulfur proteins (γ-keratose) of performic acid-oxidized mohair have been fractionated by a combination of column electrophoresis and gel filtration. The sub fractions revealed single peaks when examined by free electrophoresis and gel filtration at pH 4 and chromatography on DEAE-cellulose at pH 4.5. Data are presented con cerning the electrophoretic mobilities, molecular weights and amino acid compositions of the subfractions. End-group determinations revealed various N-terminal amino acids for some of the subfractions and confirmed the microheterogeneous nature of these fractions. In addition, some of the proteins of mohair γ-keratose were presumably present as aggregates in aqueous solution.
The Determination of Formaldehyde in Cellulose Formals and. Methylated Cellulose Formals
Authors: Ramanathan S. , Rivlin Joseph , Stamm O.A. , Zollinger H.
Published: March 2007

It is shown that only Schiff's method is suitable for the determination of formaldehyde in methylated cellulose formals. These are intermediates in the elucidation of the struc ture of cotton cross-linked with formaldehyde. Some modifications of the usual pro cedure are recommended to obtain an accuracy of 3% relative to the amount of formaldehyde present. The modified Schiff's method was standardized with cellulose formals containing C14-formaldehyde whose activity was determined by ionization chamber assay after combustion to CO2. A routine determination of C14-formaldehyde in cellulose formals by the liquid scintillation method is also described.
Design of an On-Line Computer-Based Textile Information Retrieval System
Authors: Sheldon R.C. , Roach R.A. , Backer S.
Published: March 2007

A design is reported for a compatible time-sharing system for textile information storage and retrieval. Simultaneous utilization of an IBM 7094 by 25 to 30 independent users is indicated, some solving mathematical problems, others retrieving information. The principal files of the information system permit the recording and retrieval of document data as to authors, subject matter, and other necessary bibliographic infor mation. During posting and updating of the files, a structured thesaurus is employed as an automatic filter for data input.

Varied searching techniques are described, some based on subject inquiry, others on authors, references, or citations. Emphasis is given to action by the user to immedi ate computer response to his inquiries. A sample dialogue between man and machine is reported. Successful interstate and transatlantic demonstrations of the system are reported.
Studies in Wool Yellowing Part XIX: Improved Stability of Fluorescent-Brightened Fabrics to Simulated Sunlight
Authors: Inglis A.S. , Simpson R.J.
Published: March 2007

The effects of modifications of thiourea-formaldehyde treatment of bleached and unbleached wool fabrics have been studied with regard to the protection against uv radiation damage. Pretreatment of bleached fabric with stannous chloride improves the shrink resistance of the wool but causes some yellowing. Pretreatment with aluminum sulfate does not affect the color of the wool and improves the setting and insectproofing properties. Aluminum sulfate also acts as a mordant for the fluorescent brightening agent. A comparison of reducing agents used during the application of brightening agent shows that sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate is slightly superior to zinc formalde hyde sulfoxylate when wet wool is exposed to uv radiation. The concentration of formaldehyde has an important influence on the protection conferred by thiourea- formaldehyde during short reaction times. Application of high concentrations of fluorescent brightener, followed by thiourea-formaldehyde, improves both the initial appearance and the light fastness of the fabric. The additional fluorescence masks small changes in shade of the underlying fabric, as revealed by yellowness index measurements.
Contribution to the Electron-Microscope Study of the Fine Structure of Cellulose Fibers by Means of Ultramicrotomy
Authors: Kassenbeck P. , Hagege R.
Published: March 2007

Some possibilities of using ultramicrotomy in an electron-microscope study of cellulosic fibers are considered. Interest is focused on the importance of preparative techniques, especially "fixation" and "inclusion." The well-known fact of expansion of the secondary wall (separation into lamellas of various thicknesses) is considered to be the consequence of polymerization of the methacrylate within the accessible regions of the swollen fibers after inclusion. Fixation, i.e., cross-linking, is considered to occur either in formaldehyde treatment or in periodic acid oxidation; in such cases, no poly merization takes place inside the fibers and, accordingly, no burstings are observed on thin sections. In the case of alkali treatments of sufhcient concentration, homogeneous swelling is observed and no fixation is necessary to prevent the sections from swelling when they come in contact with water in the ultramicrotome bowl.

Some histochemical techniques, designed to enhance contrast in the electron image and reveal fine structure, are discussed. Silver ions can be used after periodic acid oxida tion, followed by thiosemicarbazide blocking; uranyl and lead give good results, especially when applied to fibers rich in free carboxylic groups; and caesium can be introduced through an exchange reaction by using alcoholates so that swollen structures can, thus, be studied.
Investigations on the Chemical Constitution of Cotton Cross-Linked With Formaldehyde
Authors: Patel S. , Rivlin Joseph , Samuelson T. , Stamm O.A. , Zollinger H.
Published: March 2007

Cotton was cross-linked with formaldehyde by various methods (Form D, W, and V processes). The cellulose formals containing 1-4% formaldehyde were permeth ylated by a series of dimethylsulfate/dimethylsulfoxide treatments followed by exchange methylations of sodium cellulosate with methyl iodide in n-butanol. The permethylated cellulose formals were hydrolyzed in sulfuric acid and the methyl glucoses thus formed were reduced to the respective sorbitols. The mixture of these sorbitols, after suitable blocking of the free hydroxyl groups, was separated and quantitatively analyzed by gas-liquid phase chromatography. The results indicate a decreasing reactivity of the hydroxyl groups in the sequence C(6)>C(2)>C(3), the occurrence of 2,3-methylene linkages, and an average length of the oxymethylene cross links of between 1,3 and 2,0. The constitution of these cellulose formals is influenced by the type of formaldehyde application. Discrepancies between our results and those of other investigators are explained by their incomplete methylation, substitution of methylene cross links by methyl groups in permethylations, and incomplete separation of the degradation products.
Inconsistencies in Theories of Resiliency in Chemically Treated Cotton
Authors: Benerito Ruth R.
Published: March 2007

Current theories explaining dry and wet wrinkle recovery in cotton, with well- documented experiments in support of each, are reviewed and observations not predicted by these theories are cited. Factors that should be considered in the develop ment of a new theory consistent with all experimental facts are presented in terms of the hydrogen-bonded structure of cotton cellulose, the modern hydrogen-bonded structure of water, and the interrelations between cotton or chemically modified cottons and water.
Application of Mechanisms for Wet and Dry Wrinkle Recovery to Fabric Exhibiting the Unusual Combination of High Dry and Low Wet Recovery
Authors: Harper Robert J. , Bruno J.S. , Reeves Wilson A.
Published: March 2007

By use of polyethyleneglycols and cross-linking agents in a conventional pad-dry-cure process, fabrics have been produced with the unusual combination of high dry wrinkle and low wet wrinkle recovery. These fabrics and others with the various combinations of dry and wet wrinkle recovery have been examined in terms of the mechanisms for dry and wet wrinkle recovery. On the basis of certain textile properties, an explanation is offered for this unusual combination of high dry and low wet recovery.
Prediction of the Quality of Blended Yarns from That of the Individual Components
Authors: Ratnam T.V. , Shankaranarayana K.S. , Underwood C. , Govindarajulu K.
Published: March 2007

An expression is derived for the strength of the blended yarn spun at optimum twist, in terms of the strengths of yarns spun from the two components at optimum twist. Good agreement between the predicted and observed values is found over a range of cottons and counts. The strength deficiency of the blended yarn is partly due to the differential response of the two components to twist. The evenness of the yarn is better than would have been expected, in contrast to the results for the yarn strength.
Cross-Linked Cotton of High Moisture Regain
Authors: Liggett R.W. , Hoffman H.L. , Tanquary A.C. , Vail Sidney L.
Published: March 2007

Two general methods for retaining the high moisture regain of cotton after resin- finishing to improve wash-wear properties have been studied. The first method was the use of hydrophilic cross-linking agents, and the second method was the use of hydrophilic additives with conventional resins.

The hydrophilic cross-linking agents included methylolated derivatives of N,N'-di hydroxyethylenebisamides, dimethylaminoethyltriazone, trimethylammoniumethyltriazone iodide, and bis( 2-carbamoylethyl)dimethylammonium iodide. Several mixtures of di methylolethyleneurea and one of these agents gave better combinations of high moisture regain and crease-recovery angles than either component alone. The best combination of these properties was obtained with methylolated dimethylaminoethyltriazone. It is believed that agents of this type are effective because of the formation of hydrophilic derivatives of cellulose.

The hydrophilic additives included polyethylene glycols and simple quaternary ammonium salts. These were added to trimethylolmelamine and dimethylolethyleneurea resins. Best results, on the basis indicated above, were obtained with benzyltrimethyl ammonium chloride and dimethylolethyleneurea. It is believed that these additives, like the salts and the polyethylene glycol ethers studied by other workers, function by preventing fiber collapse during curing. The polyethylene glycol that was retained in the fabric by coreaction with the trimethylolmelamine did not appear to have any effect on the moisture absorptivity.
Morphology of Melt-Crystallized Polyethyleneterephthalate
Authors: Watkins Nancy C. , Hansen David
Published: March 2007

Polyethyleneterephthalate (PET) crystallized at temperatures of 150°C, 180°C, 210°C, and 240°C was examined by polarized-light microscopy, electron microscopy of ultrathin sections and fracture replicas, and small-angle x-ray scattering. The morphological observations are interpreted in terms of fibrillar-spherulitic structure where the fibrils are stacks of small, lamellar crystals.
Improved Cotton DP Through Dry-Cure Deposition of Polymers Containing Reactive Groups1
Authors: Tolgyesi W.S.
Published: March 2007

Copolymers, based on multifunctional N-methylol cellulose reactants and urea or thiourea, were internally deposited in cotton by a pad-dry-cure process. The urea or thiourea prevented extensive cross-linking of the cellulose during polymer formation by competing with the cellulose hydroxyls for the reactive N-methylol groups. The durable-press fabric, obtained by cross-linking the copolymer-containing cotton with conventional N-methylol reactants, exhibited higher strength retention and abrasion resistance than similar fabrics without polymer deposit or containing only homopolymers of the N-methylol compounds. It is proposed that the improvement is due to cross- linking of the cellulose through the reactive urea or thiourea residues of the polymer matrix.
Estimation of Tryptophan Content of Wool by Barium Hydroxide (Baryta) Hydrolysis Method
Authors: Juneja K.K. , Sule A.D. , Chipalkatti V.B.
Published: March 2007

Various factors affecting the estimation of the tryptophan content of wool, by methods based on acid hydrolysis, are discussed. It has been shown that when wool is hydrolyzed in a strong acid medium in presence of p-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde, the tryptophan-aldehyde complex formed decomposes with time and, thus, a correct estimation of tryptophan content is difhcult.

When wool is hydrolyzed with barium hydroxide, tryptophan is liberated without decomposition and can be estimated in the hydrolyzate when barium ions and H2S (which is formed as a result of degradation of cystine and its derivatives) are both removed. A method of estimating tryptophan content of wool by baryta hydrolysis is described and has been found to be accurate and reliable. Tryptophan contents of various wools, estimated by the baryta hydrolysis method are reported. Tryptophan content of Australian Merino 70° wool was found to be 0.82 ± 0.01%.
Heat on Wool Versus Fulling
Authors: Gordon Carlton C.
Published: March 2007

Details are given of a method for evaluating the fullability of wool yarn. This was used on wool yarn samples which had been subjected to either "wet" or "dry" heat for times and temperatures which ranged from "mild" to "severe" conditions. Exposed and unexposed samples were tested for (1) urea bisulfite solubility, (2) alkali solubility, (3) swelling, (4) moisture regain, (5) strength, (6) elongation vs load, and (7) full ability. The urea bisulfite solubility test was most sensitive for judging wool damage by heat; others showed significant differences, but at higher levels of exposure. Still others were found to, be unsuited for indicating mild or moderate impairment of fulling. Normal levels of urea bisulfite solubility have been assigned for "ideal" wool, mill processed wool, and wools which have been exposed to heat long enough to affect fulling.
Some Mechanical Properties of Resorcinol-Formaldehyde Latex (RFL) Tire Cord Adhesive
Authors: Raumann G.
Published: March 2007

Films of resorcinol-formaldehyde latex (RFL) films were made by casting on mercury. The tensile stress-strain curves and tensile and bending moduli were determined for films with different heat-curing conditions and different resin/latex ratios.

The heat treatments (240° for 30 min conditions were more severe than in normal hot-dipping and vulcanizing) showed no significant change on the mechanical properties of the films. Changes in the latex/resin ratio produced gradual (not sudden or stepwise) changes in the mechanical properties.

The dynamic Young's modulus and loss factor for a standard formulation film from -20°C to +120°C showed small changes, indicating a one-phase system of resin and latex. This evidence was supported by microscopic and electron microscopic evidence.

Standard RFL film was shown to be a tough material of adequate extensibility (16%) and a modulus (2.3 × 106 g. cm-2) Intermediate between that of rubber skim stock and nylon tire cord. Its mechanical loss factor shows that it does not contribute unduly to the heat generated in a tire.
The Effects of Construction on the Wear Wrinkling of Dacron®/Wool Suitings
Authors: Looney F.S. , Handy C.T.
Published: March 2007

This paper describes a systematic investigation of the effects of fabric construction on the wear wrinkling of worsted spun "Dacron" polyester/wool blend fabrics. Variables studied were blend ratio, yarn count, yarn twist, yarn ply, fabric tightness, and fabric weave pattern. The effect of these variables on the wrinkle resistance of fabrics was compared in laboratory tests under controlled atmospheric conditions and in carefully monitored slack wear tests. These studies led to the conclusion that the three major construction factors which determine wear wrinkling are the proportion of polyester fibers, the yarn count, and the weave pattern. Best performance resulted from the use of high blend levels, coarse yams, and long-float weaves. While the absolute performance levels can be modified by changing test conditions (humidity, wearer severity, or recovery time), the over-all conclusions are unaltered. Within the limits of this investigation, interfiber friction, yarn twist, and tightness for a given weave and yarn size (weight) had little effect on wrinkle propensity. These findings are generally consistent with accepted mechanical concepts of fabric behavior.
The Dimensional Properties of Knitted Wool Fabrics
Authors: Knapton J.J.F. , Ahrens F.J. , Ingenthron W.W. , Fong W.
Published: March 2007

The 1×1 rib and half-cardigan structures, like the plain-knitted structure, are shown to be rationally determinate structures only in the fully-relaxed state; in any other state, their dimensional behavior is dependent on the yarn's physical properties and previous knitting and wet-finishing history. The fully-relaxed state is reached only after the fabrics have been thoroughly wetted-out, hydroextracted, and tumble-dried for 1 hr at 70°C. In this state, the courses and ribs per in. of the 1×1 structure are directly proportional to 1/ L, as predicted by Munden's original theory for the plain-knitted structure, but this theory does not account for the complete dimensional behavior of this structure, as K1 is not strictly a constant. However, K 4 is a constant at 1.76±0.15 and independent of both loop length and yarn count. For the 2X2 rib, no true dimensional stable state is found with wet relaxation and tumble-drying.
The Mechanical Properties of Woven Fabrics
Authors: Grosberg P. , Leaf G.A.V. , Park B.J.
Published: March 2007

Deformation mechanism of the elastic region which follows the nonlinear frictional region in shearing of plain-weave fabrics is analyzed, and the elastic shear modulus is determined in terms of the mechanical properties of the yarn and the geometrical parameters of the fabric. The mechanical behavior of the three-dimensional unit cell of plain-weave fabrics is studied, based on a simple model of yarn in relative slipping of yarns at the intersection of the fabric. The effect of tension being applied in shear tests is also included in the analysis. The elastic shear modulus determined by the proposed mechanism of deformation is found to agree well with experimental results.
Effect of Mercerizing- Strength NaOH on Fine Structures of Cottons Modified with Butadienediepoxide
Authors: Ziifle H.M. , Benerito R.R. , Berni R.J. , Cannizzaro A.M.
Published: March 2007

Spectral and microscopical data revealed effects of 23% NaOH used either as a pretreating agent (catalyst) or as a mercerizing agent prior to or subsequent to treatment of cottons with CCl4 solutions of butadienediepoxide (BDO) in presence of more dilute NaOH catalysts. Whereas high dry and high wet wrinkle-recovery angles resulted when 2% or 15% NaOH catalyzed the BDO-cellulose reaction, only high wet recoveries were obtained with 23% NaOH catalysis. Conditioned recovery angles were higher, the weaker the base pretreatment. Postmercerization did not change recoveries of BDO- native cottons catalyzed by 15% NaOH but adversely affected dry angles of BDO-treated fabrics catalyzed with 2% NaOH and wet angles of those fabrics from reactions catalyzed by 23% NaOH. BDO-native cotton fabrics under 2% base catalysis retained the cellu lose I lattice; those under 15% NaOH catalysis exhibited mixed cellulose I- and II-type lattices, and those under 23% base catalysis consisted of mixed cellulose II- and III-type latices. Postmercerization resulted in (1) a cellulose IV-type lattice from BDO-treated fabrics which originally retained the native cellulose I structure, (2) a mixed cellulose II and IV-type lattice for those which originally possessed the mixed cellulose I- and II-type structure, and (3) no further effect upon those which originally possessed a mixed cellulose II and III-type structure. ,

Mercerized fabrics (mixed cellulose I and II) pretreated with aqueous NaOH and then reacted with BDO exhibited high dry and high wet wrinkle-recovery angles only when 2% NaOH catalyzed the reaction, and then only when add-ons of BDO were ex tremely high (35%). Otherwise, dry recovery remained essentially that of the mercerized control, and only high wet recoveries were obtained. Comparisons of fabric properties of BDO-mercerized cottons were made with those of the BDO-native cottons.

Only with 23% NaOH pretreatment did comparable products from BDO-native cotton and BDO-mercerized cotton reactions have the same lattice type and show a tendency toward a cellulose III-type lattice. Microscopical and spectral data indicate the mixed I and II lattice was retained in all BDO-mercerized cottons pretreated with 2% NaOH and in all cottons pretreated with 15% NaOH or 23% NaOH and reacted to low add-ons of BDO. Postmercerization of these BDO-mercerized fabrics converted the cellulose I lattice to a II rather than to a IV-type lattice as occurred in BDO-native cottons. With those fabrics of high BDO add-ons postmercerization changed the cellu lose II-type lattice to a cellulose III lattice.
Studies in Wear Life of Normal- and Special-Finished Woven Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Sarma G.V. , Ranganathan S.R. , Chipalkatti V.B. , Maji M.R.
Published: March 2007

Random mathematical models are shown to describe the tear of normal- and special-finished shirts exposed to wear and controlled laundering. Progressive tears and tear lengths follow the Poisson and compound Poisson processes, respectively. The distribution of tear lengths obeys the exponential law. Mathematical models are demonstrated as useful predictors of wear life. Such topics as the relation of critical stress to tear failure and the zonal distribution of tears are also discussed.
Fiber-to-Yarn Strength Translation of Acrylic Spun Yarns
Authors: Hurley R.B. , Duby R.G. , Pfeifer C.R.
Published: March 2007

A method is described for accurately determining the ultimate tenacity of an acrylic yarn and its fiber-to-yarn strength translation efficiency. Both of these values are essentially independent of the nonuniformity of the denier of the yarn. The method con sists of determining the denier of thin segments of yarn with the Uster Evenness Tester and then finding the tensile strength of these same yarn segments with the Instron Tensile Tester. Differences between ultimate yarn tenacities in these thin yarn sections and tenacities based on yarn skein and single-end strengths are also examined.