bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Assessment and Analysis of the Bellows Ventilation of Clothing
Authors: Vokac Z. , Køpke V. , Keül P.
Published: March 2008

A methodical approach is described, attempting to separate the loss of heat and moisture due to forced exchange of air inside clothing, when walking, from the loss caused by gradients between the body and the environment.

Temperature, heat flow, and relative humidity were recorded on the skin of the back and inside the respective clothing (shirt only, vest and shirt, or vest, shirt and anorak) in 12 experiments performed in a climatic chamber at 4-11°C and 35-70% RH, The subject walked on a treadmill with 5% grade at 7.2 km/hr until a new steady state of higher tempera ture and heat flow, as well as humidity, resulting from evaporation of sweat, was reached. When the motion was suddenly stopped, both the temperature and humidity increased steeply, while the heat flow decreased, showing levels which would have been attained, theoretically, if the transfer of heat and water vapor along gradients was not assisted by forced exchange of air when walking. When walking was resumed after a pause, all recorded parameters changed in the opposite direction. Continuous recording of temperature next to skin showed temperature oscillations synchronous either with every step or with every other step.

The results are considered as evidence of the effect of forced ventilation on the microclimate. Calculated from changes in water-vapor pressure, the magnitude of forced ventilation corresponded, approximately, to dilution of the air layer next to skin, with atmospheric air, by one-half of its volume.

It was demonstrated, in addition, that the heat of sorption, arising from transient increases of humidity in the clothing, had a marked effect on temperature of the micro-climate.

The term "bellows ventilation" is thought to express best the mechanism of exchange of air resulting from rhythmical movements of limbs and body at physical activity.
A Study of Some Factors Affecting the Photodegradation of Textile Yarns Part I : The Spectral Distributions of Sun-Sky and Xenon-Arc Radiation
Authors: Lock Leona M. , Frank Grace C. , Stevens J.R.
Published: March 2008

A detailed study was made of the relative spectral distribution of sun-sky radiation at several times of day under various sky conditions from June to October 1971. A sufficient number of spectra were recorded to provide a statistically viable sample. Average spectral distributions for three daily time periods and four classes of sky conditions within four approximately monthly periods were calculated and compared. Radiation from a sunny-bright sky over the noon period gave a representative average and would be a reasonable standard sun-sky spectral distribution for comparison with artificial light sources.

The relative spectral distribution of xenon-arc radiation in combination with various filters was monitored using the same spectrographic equipment. Comparison of the sun-sky spectral distribution with the xenon arc emission spectrum indicated that although agreement of the lower cut-off wavelength could be attained using Q/Q/WG filters. Xenon radiation was deficient above 3150 Å regardless of the filter system used. Infrared filters removed an undesirable amount of high energy radiation and would be likely to decelerate degradation.
Photofading of Rhodamine Dyes
Authors: Evans N.A.
Published: March 2008

The action spectra for fading of Rhodamine B (C.I. 45170) are similar for irradiations in aqueous solution and on wool, bleached wool and nylon fabrics, suggesting that the mechanisms of fading are similar in all cases and that the fiber plays no significant photosensitizing role. In solution, the quantum yield for photodegradation varies markedly with the wavelength of the incident radiation, ranging from 1.1 × 10-6 mols/einstein at 540-560 nm to 8.4 × 10-6 mols/einstein at 325-345 nm. On the basis of the results presented, it is calculated that visible radiation (400-600 nm) is responsible for approximately 80% of the fading when Rhodamine B dyed wool is exposed to sunlight.
Ion-Exchange Properties of Cellulosic Polyanions
Authors: Lawton J.B. , Phillips G.O.
Published: March 2008

Thermodynamic parameters have been determined for the ion exchange of inorganic cations with sodium ions on cellulosic polyanions which contain carboxyl, carboxymethyl, phosphate, or sulphate groups. These polyanions show similar properties to both ion-exchange resins and biological polyelectrolytes with respect to their ion-binding character istics. Thus both cellulose sulphate (—SO2-) and cellulose phosphate (=PO2-) bind potassium ions in preference to sodium ions, whereas with oxycellulose (—COO-) and carboxymethylcellulose (—CH2COO-) the order is reversed. The order of binding for copper(II) ions when exchanged for sodium ions is carboxymethyl > carboxyl > sulphate. For binding to carboxymethyl groups, the order of binding for divalent ions is Cu2+> Mn2+> Ca2+, but at sulphate groups the order is Mn2+> Ca2+> Cu2+.

This behavior is here explained on the basis of two postulates: (1) that the ions are bound in the hydrated form to -SO2- and = PO2- groups, and (2) that at -CH3COO-and —COO-groups the effective radii of the ions are in order of their crystal radii. The cause of this difference in behavior is held to be the effective radius of the anionic group. A theory of ion-exchange selectivity is advanced which gives quantitative expression to these ideas and allows calculation of free-energy changes that are in good agreement with the experimental values.
Theory of Extension of Elastic Continuous Filament Yarns
Authors: Huang N.C. , Funk G.E.
Published: March 2008

This paper is concerned with the theoretical investigation of small extension of linearly elastic continuous filament yarns. The yarn is treated as a solid composed of thin fibers with helical configuration and infinitesimal cross sections. The theory of elastic curved rods is employed in our analysis. In comparison with previous works on the same topic, the theory presented in this paper is more rigorous and complete, and some assumptions used in previous studies are omitted here. In this paper, stress analysis is made for yarns with different angles of twist. The possibility of partial separation of fibers in the binormal directions is considered. The effect of superposition of a twisting moment on the extended yarn is also discussed.
Sectional Dry-Heat-Transfer Properties of Clothing in Wind
Authors: Fonseca G.F.
Published: March 2008

The insulation around a sectional manikin in the nude and clothed condition was determined at various wind speeds. Above an air flow of 2 m/sec the percentage contribution to the total heat transfer from each of the six sections of the nude manikin was approximately constant. Adding clothing to the nude manikin provided a greater relative contribu tion to the total insulation at the higher air flows than at the lower. The total convective coefficient curve in a laminar air flow for the nude manikin proved to be within 15% of two earlier, independent curves for a standing human form.
Studies on the Thermal Degradation of Phosphorus-Containing Polymers
Authors: Katsuura Kakuji , Inagaki Norihiro
Published: March 2008

Information is given to explain how phosphorus compounds contribute to flame retardance of cotton.

The fabric treated with the following retardants can be expected to have effective flame retardance: (1) Phosphorus compounds are in ester-linkage with cellulose chains or are able to esterify with cellulose during pyrolysis. (2) The phosphorus ester groups introduced into cellulose chains are eliminated readily and conjugated double bonds are formed.

The ease of formation of double bonds is due to the electron density in the phosphoryl group. The effect of the increase of its electron density leads to an increase of efficiency of flame retardance.
Chemical Composition of Kerateines from the Orthocortex and Paracortex of Merino Wool
Authors: Kulkarni V.G.
Published: March 2008

The high- and low-sulphur protein fractions are prepared by the reductive fission of the disulphide bonds in the ortho cortex and the paracortex. The amino acid analyses of the kerateine fractions show that the orthocortex is rich in low- sulphur proteins and contains a small fraction of aromatic proteins, while the paracortex has a larger proportion of the high-sulphur protein. The soluble proteins from these two cortices are not extracted completely by a reductive fission, but they are retained to some extent in the insoluble kerateine residues.
A Mathematical Model for Spinning Molten Polymers and Conditions of Spinning
Authors: Prastaro Agostino , Parrini Paolo
Published: March 2008

The equations of spinning of molten polymers in the stationary non-isothermal state have been solved by an analytical numerical method so as to obtain temperature T(z) and section A (z) profiles along the spinning axis z.

T(z) and A(z) are thus correlated with the molecular parameters of the molten polymer: viscosity, density, and specific heat at constant pressure, and with the cohditions of spinning: extrusion speed, take-up speed, air temperature, extrusion temperature, and polymer mass-flow rate.

Furthermore, the correlation has been obtained between fiber quality and steady-state solutions.

A critical collection rate and the critical extrusion output have been deduced from such correlations. Above such critical values, breakage of the molten polymer takes place.
Creation of Reactive Centers on Cotton
Authors: Kamel M. , Hebeish A. , Al-Aref A.
Published: March 2008

Dyeing of acrylamidomethylated cellulose (AMC) with dyestuffs containing nucleophilic groups is studied. It is found that the presence of the pendant double bonds on AMC is advantageous in effecting concurrent dyeing and wash-wear finishing. The loss in tensile strength is minimal. Several interesting results relating to this novel pro cedure are reported.
Determination of Lanthionine and Lysinoalanine as N-Trifluoroacetyl n-Butyl Esters by Gas-Liquid Chromatography
Authors: Sakamoto Munenori , Kajiyama Koh-Ichi , Teshirogi Takuma , Tonami Hiroaki
Published: March 2008

A gas-liquid chromatographic method was explored for the analysis of lanthionine and lysinoalanine as well as lysine, cystine, and S-carboxyethylcysteine in chemically modified wool samples. The amino acids in the wool hydrolyzate were converted to n-butyl esters of N-trifluoroacetyl derivatives according to the method of Gehrke et al. The retention indices of the five amino acids mentioned above as well as other protein amino acids such as proline, phenytalanine, histidine (as mono and diacyl derivatives), tyrosine, arginine, and tryptophane were determined on OV-17 and Dexsil 300 GC. It was found that Dexsil 300 GC was suitable for the intended analysis with n-butyl stearate as an internal standard. The molar responses of these amino acids were determined.
Contribution to the Study of the Influence of Turbine Cleanliness on the Properties of Cotton and Blend Open-End Yarns
Authors: Barella A. , Vigo J.P. , Tarrés F.J.
Published: March 2008

In this report the influence of the impurities (trash, dirt, etc. eventually accumulated in the turbines of the open-end machine) on the properties of yarns spun from cotton, blends, and man-made fibers is studied. It has been observed that, apart from an increase in end-breakage, parameters such as abrasion resistance, tensile strength, and resistance to repeated extensions decrease, and that yarn irregularity and yarn hairiness increase. It is also worth mentioning that the yarn presents periodic irregularities of varying wavelength, depending on the zone of the turbine where impu rities accumulate.

Either continuous cleaning of the turbine in machines with a device intended to do so, or periodic cleaning by the operator, tends to avoid inconveniences from accumulation of impurities, which can in turn cause yarn deterioration . and fabric faults.

Generally, the phenomenon is dependent on the degree of fiber cleanliness, and it is more frequent in cotton spinning than in spinning of man-made fibers and their blends.
Mechanism of Shrinkproofing with Silicone Resins
Authors: Makinson K. Rachel
Published: March 2008

Five samples of fabric treated with a silicone resin to prevent felting were examined for the presence of fiber bonds, using optical microscopy, micromanipulation, and measurement of the force required to withdraw a single fiber from the fabric. In all cases fiber bonds were found to be present and to be responsible for the resistance to felting. A sample of similarly treated tops, which acquired very little resistance to felting as a result of the treatment, was also examined. The fibers in this sample were coated with the resin but showed no fiber bonding, and their frictional properties were similar to those of normal, untreated fibers. Stress is laid on the difficulty which may sometimes be encountered in demonstrating the presence of interfiber bonds, and on the need for examination by micromanipulation before the con clusion is reached that they are not present.
Analytical Solutions to the Drying of Textile Materials with Microwave Heating
Authors: Hatcher John D. , Higgins Kenneth B. , Lyons Donald W.
Published: March 2008

An analytical model of internal transport characteristics of a textile material during drying using microwave heating is developed. The model is simplified for each period of drying (initial adjustment, liquid movement, constant rate, and falling rate) using existing experimental data and certain known characteristics of microwave heating. Solutions to these reduced modeling equations are obtained for the initial adjustment period and the constant rate period, which are the drying periods comprising the majority of the drying processes of most textile materials of interest. The analytical results are compared to the available experimental data, and a correlation is obtained in the prediction of drying rates, internal temperature profiles, and internal pressure distribution.
Measurement of Crease-Recovery Angle of a Single Filament or Yarn
Authors: Neelakantan P. , Patel N.C.
Published: March 2008

A method is described to measure the crease-recovery angles of single filaments and yams. The specimen, after creas ing, is allowed to recover freely and the angle is measured using a travelling microscope fitted with a protractor and a pointer. Nylon and polyester filaments as well as yarns extracted from cotton fabrics treated with various crosslinking agents were studied.
Influence of Fiber Properties on Wrinkling Behavior of Fabrics
Authors: Lamb G.E.R. , Butler R.H. , Prevorsek D.C.
Published: March 2008

The recovery of fabrics from bending strains is basically the property which determines whether the fabric will be wrinkle-free and is thus an important factor in the total concept of ease-of-care. The capacity of a fabric to recover from a bending strain depends on a number of physical properties of the single filaments and yarns which compose the fabric. It also depends on geometric construction parameters of the fabric. The present article, one of a series in which studies of these physical properties are described, examines the recovery of the single polymer filament. Calculated recovery for a cylindrical filament shows excellent agreement with experimental values.
Modification of Polyvinyl Alcohol Fibers by Dimethyldichlorosilane
Authors: Varma D.S. , Bandyopadhyay B.N.
Published: March 2008

Polyvinyl alcohol fibers (PVA) were treated with dimethyldichlorosilane (DMCS) in anhydrous condition and in air and nitrogen atmospheres. The effects of different reaction conditions and solvents on the extent of reaction were investigated. The percent weight gain of PVA increased as the molar ratio of silane to yarn was increased. An increase in the reaction temperature or time resulted in an increase in the weight gain. The percent gain in weight in air is slightly less than in nitrogen atmosphere, and in dimethylformamide (DMF) it is much higher than in benzene. The effect of these different reaction conditions on the extent of reaction has been explained in terms of accessibility of reaction sites.

Physical properties of these chemically modified fibers were also investigated. Moisture regain, density, and bire fringence were reduced due to DMCS treatment. Compared to the parent fibers, the mechanical properties of the modified fibers were also impaired. The elastic recovery increased considerably, indicating the possibility of an inter moleculer crosslinking reaction. The thermal stability data revealed that at lower percent weight gain (<2%) the stability of the modified fibers was lower than that of the parent. However, above 2% weight gain an improvement in thermal stability behavior was observed.
Influence of Fiber Properties on Wrinkling Behavior of Fabrics Part III: Bending Recovery of Yarns
Authors: Butler R.H. , Lamb G.E.R. , Prevorsek D.C.
Published: March 2008

The remanent curvature after a bending strain has been imposed is usually greater for a yarn than for a single filament taken from the yarn. Assuming that the differences originate with filament-filament frictional forces, this article derives quantitative estimates of these effects, using supporting experimental data. The yarn deficiency angle Δβ, is found to be proportional to the fiber-fiber friction coefficient μ and inversely proportional to the fiber modulus E.
Quantitative Determination of Dyes in Textile Fibers
Authors: Kissa Erik
Published: March 2008

The quantitative determination of nonionic dyes in polyester substrates by extraction with organic solvents has been studied. Highly accurate and precise results are obtained by extraction of the fabric or yarn (0.1 to 0.3 g sample) with dimethylformamide (DMF) containing a free radical inhibitor (5 to 20 g/l. 2,6-di- t-butyl-4-methylphenol) and a non volatile acid (p-toluenesulfonic acid) to lower the apparent pH of the solvent to 4.0. One extraction with this solvent at 140°C removes usually over 90% of the dye in 2 to 3 minutes. Most dyes are removed completely from the fiber by three extractions (3 min each).

The method is also applicable to the quantitative determination of disperse dyes in polyamide, acrylic, and acetate fibers and DMF soluble nonionic dyes in cellulosic fiber.

It is shown that extraction with hot DMF can give erroneous results unless a free-radical inhibitor is added and the acidity of the extraction solvent controlled to stabilize the solvent and the dye. Stabilized DMF or dimethylacetamide (DMAC) are more effective extraction solvents than chlorobenzene, o-dichlorobenzene, dimethyl o-phthalate, methyl ethers of polyethylene glycols, acetic acid, or chloroform.
Estimation of Differential Fiber Hooking by Fibrograph
Authors: Balasubramanian N. , Supanekar S.D. , Nerurkar S.K.
Published: March 2008

The fibrogram shapes of clamped fiber beards have been deduced under a range of conditions. For constant staple length material and for fibers with low length variability, the maximum span length difference between the fibrograms in the two directions becomes equal to the differential hook extent in the sliver. When length variability is more, the maximum span length difference is found to be different but is still closely related to the differential hook extent.
Dynamic Observations of Abrasion/Snagging: A Laboratory Device for the SEM
Authors: Varela Carlos , Batra Subhash K. , Backer Stanley
Published: March 2008

In a study of the mechanics of surface attrition of fiber assemblies, a device has been designed and fabricated to be used in conjunction with the scanning electron microscope (SEM). It allows the in situ observation of the deformation of the yam and fabric structures in attrition processes, such as the snagging of a knit fabric by a sharp needle point (or a hook) or the abrasion of a fabric by single or multiple macro-asperities. Some preliminary observations obtained with this device are discussed.
The Effect of Top-Roller Weighting, Apron Spacing, and Top-Roller Setting Upon Yarn Quality
Authors: Balasubramanian N.
Published: March 2008

Optimum ringframe processing conditions for getting the best yam quality are examined in this work. The studies show that for every mixing there exists an optimum apron spacing at which imperfection count and irregularity reach a minimum and the optimum is at a lower level with increase of top-roller load. In medium and coarse mixings, yarn regularity can be improved by closing down the apron spacing and by either increasing the top roller load or by reducing the roving twist. Front top-roller setting has a critical effect on regularity in medium mixings; widening the setting by 3 mm significantly increases the irregularity of material. Apron spacing and top-roller settings have less effect on regu larity in fine mixings.
The Effects of Moisture on the Flammability Characteristics of Textile Materials
Authors: Miller Bernard , Martin J. Ronald , Goswami Bhuvenesh C. , Meiser Charles H.
Published: March 2008

The TRI Flammability Analyzer has been used to determine the effects of moisture on the flammability characteristics of textile materials. Both moisture in the fabric and in the test environment have been considered for a number of un treated and flame-retardant-treated fabrics. The results are reported and interpreted in terms of several measurable quantities: mass transformation rate (MTR), oxygen sensitivity (ΔMTR/Δ% O2), and extrapolated oxygen index (O. I.)0. Variations in fabric moisture content appear to have a greater effect on the behavior of relatively hydrophobic fibers (such as polyester), as compared to cotton or nylon.
Methodology for Studying the Wettability of Filaments
Authors: Miller Bernard , Young Raymond A.
Published: March 2008

Some of the limitations inherent in the use of directly measured contact angles for.the determination of filament wetta bility are discussed, and an alternate approach based on the Wilhelmy balance principle is presented. Mathematical interpretation of data obtained allows for determination of wettable cross-sectional areas in addition to wettability values. The technique has been utilized to demonstrate the effects of several process variables on the surface character of synthetic fibers.
Changes in the Structure of Polyethylene Terephthalate Yarn on Texturing
Authors: Gupta V.B. , Kumar M.
Published: March 2008

The changes in the structure of commercial polyethylene terephthalate yam, when it is textured on a spindle false- twist machine, have been studied over a range of heater temperatures and heater contact times. Compared to the un textured yarn, crystalline content increases on texturing, but crystallite orientation, birefringence, and amorphous orien tation decrease. The changes in these structural parameters with temperature and time of texturing are discussed.
Edge Abrasion of Durable-Press Cotton Fabric During Laundering with Phosphate- and Carbonate-Built Detergents
Authors: Morris M.A. , Prato H.H.
Published: March 2008

The edge abrasion of durable-press cotton and the deposit build-up on the cotton and a nylon fabric were determined after repeated launderings with phosphate and carbonate detergents and builders. When soft water was used there were no differences in amount of abrasion or deposit. The use of hard water with carbonate products resulted in accelerated edge abrasion on the cotton, and a heavy calcium deposit on both fabrics was indicated from weight change, spectro photometer analyses, and SEM examination. Fabrics laundered with phosphate products in hard water had less abra sion and deposit than those washed with carbonate detergent or builder, but more than samples laundered in aoft water. Detergents and builders of the same type resulted in similar amounts of fabric deterioration, but detergents formed more deposit than the corresponding builder.
Differential Response of Cottons to Slack Mercerization
Authors: Rajagopalan A. , Venkatesh G.M. , Dweltz N.E.
Published: March 2008

Fiber bundle strength at 1/8-in. test length of cottons of low and intermediate maturity is found to improve on slack swelling in 10% solution (w/w) of NaOH. At a concentration of 16% there is a marginal further improvement in the tenacity values of these cottons, and beyond 16% the tenacity levels off. Cottons of very high maturity differ from the above in that the tenacity values of these cottons are unaffected by the slack swelling treatment with 10% NaOH, and further, on treatment with 16% solution the tenacity values register a decline and then level off at higher concentrations.

The causes of such a differential response of cottons of different maturities towards slack swelling in alkali of different concentrations are discussed on the basis of morphological and structural changes which the fibers have undergone, namely: change in linear density, removal of strain, and change in percent crystallinity and orientation of the amorphous phase of the cellulose material.
Scanning Electron Microscopy Study of the Deformation of Staple Yarns: Cotton, Polyester, and Cotton-Polyester Blends
Authors: Cheng C.C. , Cowart Joseph L. , Mcgill Bobby L. , Spruiell Joseph E. , White James L.
Published: March 2008

The deformation of staple cotton, polyester, and cotton/polyester blend yarns has been studied in a small tensile device placed in a scanning electron microscope. The mechanics of failure of the different yarns are considered.
Amino-Acid Composition of Total Protein of Cotton
Authors: Wakelyn P.J.
Published: March 2008

The amino-acid composition of the total protein of cotton and primary wall of cotton have been determined after acid hydrolysis. Some amino acids (pro, thr, ile, phe, met, lys, his) not reported previously to be in cotton have been found. Cotton and primary wall of cotton contain free amino acids in addition to protein.
Solvent Finishing of Cotton and Cotton-Polyester Blends
Authors: Berni Ralph J. , Benerito Ruth R. , Soignet Donald M.
Published: March 2008

Azeotropes of low watercontent that boil at less than 100°C were selected as solvents fordimethytotdihydroxyethytene urea and zinc nitrate catalyst in the chemical modification of cotton and cotton-polyester blends. Fabrics were treated by the usual pad-dry-cure techniques, and final properties were compared with those obtained by conventional all- aqueous systems.
Influences of Fiber Geometry on the Performance of Nonwoven Air Filters
Authors: Lamb George E.R. , Costanza Peter , Miller Bernard
Published: March 2008

The principal aim of this study was the evaluation of the influence of five fiber properties on the filtration performance of model nonwoven fabrics made from the fibers. Variables studied were cross-sectional shape, linear density, surface roughness, crimp, and staple length. Two levels of each were represented in a set of 32 polyester fiber samples. Non woven fabrics made from each of these were used to filter fly-ash particles from a stream of air using a test apparatus designed for the purpose. The relative filtration performances associated with a change in each fiber property were assessed from measurements of pressure drop across the filter, collection efficiency, and particle-size distribution. Sta tistical analysis showed that: 1) efficiency is improved by the use of trilobal rather than round cross-section fibers with no detrimental effect on drag; 2) efficiency and drag are both improved by the use of crimped rather than uncrimped fibers; and 3) efficiency is improved by the use of 3-denier rather than 6-denier fibers but at the cost of greater drag. Curves relating efficiency to particle size seem to indicate that rougher fibers are more efficient in removing finer particles. In general, emdency improvements imparted by changes in fiber geometry are especially pronounced for fine-particle filtra tion (∼2.5 microns).
Yam-Strength Index of Cotton Blended with Synthetics in the 50-Gram Spinning Test
Authors: Ewald Philip R. , Lawson Reba
Published: March 2008

A small-scale spinning test for cottons may be used for blends with synthetics by allowance for the respective differences in fiber length. The methodology developed shows that from the yarn strength of the respective fibers, yarn strength of the blends at optimum twist may be estimated through use of a measured noncooperation factor Φ and a simple trigono metric relation.
Dyeing of Polyurethane Elastomeric Materials in Nonaqueous Media
Authors: Hanna H.L.
Published: March 2008

Polyurethane elastomeric materials have the affinity to react chemically in organic media with disperse dyes containing free amino groups. This is probably due to the presence of free isocyanate groups in the polyurethane macromolecule. The presence of a chemical linkage was proved by thin-layer chromatography, diazotization, and coupling. Similarly, other compounds containing an active hydrogen atom, e.g. primary amines and alkyl mercaptanes, react with the same material.
Studies of Wrinkling Properties of Wool Fabrics
Authors: Leeder J.D.
Published: March 2008

The concept of inducing stress-relaxation in strained wool fibers by changing the temperature at constant humidity has been used to develop the basis of a new wrinkle-recovery test specific for wool and wool-containing fabrics. The test is potentially simple and inexpensive, yet capable of ranking fabrics in the same order as more sophisticated research methods.
Mechanistic Study of Flame Inhibition by Phosphonate- and Phosphonium-Based Flame Retardants on Cotton and Polyester Fabrics
Authors: Rohringer Petir , Stensby Per , Adler Arnold
Published: March 2008

A large number of products was synthesized and the flame-retardant properties on polyester/cotton blends determined. Phosphonium salt oligomers were more efficient on blends than the conventional phosphonate used on cellulosics. Among the reasons given to substantiate this conclusion is the observation that the oligomer shows a higher degree of fixation than the phosphonate on both polyester/cotton blends and on pure polyester. Furthermore, the oligomer appears to be effective in the gas phase on polyester and in the solid phase on cotton.
The Radiation Grafting of Silicone onto Vinylon and Tetoron
Authors: Nishide Shinko , Shimizu Harumichi
Published: March 2008

The radiation grafting of silicone onto Vinylon or Tetoron was carried out in air at room temperature, and the water repellency of silicone-grafted samples was measured by the spray rating test with the following results:

1) The rate of grafting of Vinylon is 0.91%/h. The grafting is accelerated markedly by heating after irradiation. It is concluded that most of the grafting of this system is based on the radicals formed by the thermal decomposition of peroxide.

2) On the silicone-Tetoron system, grafting proceeds rapidly by irradiation above 3 Mrad while little grafting occurs below 3 Mrad. The degree of grafting in air is equal to that in N2. Consequently, the grafting in this system is the result of direct reaction of radicals formed during irradiation.

3) The silicone-graft-Vinylon and -Tetoron possess water repellency that is highly durable to dry cleaning and abrasion. The water repellency of grafted Vinylon increases with increasing irradiation dosage, but that of grafted Tetoron becomes constant at about 1 Mrad. Tetoron is better than that of Vinylon with regard to water repellency.
Unevenness (Length Variance) of a Worsted Yarn by Cutting-and- Weighing and the Use of the Pacific Tester
Authors: O'Connell R.A. , Ahrens F.J. , Martsch R.J.
Published: March 2008

A comparison of yarn irregularity is made between the Pacific Evenness Tester and the cut-and-weigh technique through use of length-variance analysis. It is shown that the Pacific Tester adequately measures short-term unevenness in a worsted yarn. Results for medium-term unevenness are only moderately different from those of the cut-and-weigh method. Long-term unevenness is best measured by the simple cut-and-weigh method used in normal practice.
Strength Parameters of Jute Yarn
Authors: Geo Paul N.
Published: March 2008

For assessing jute yarn tenacity, the time-consuming, conventional, single-thread testing method was compared with the lea tenacity, bundle tenacity, and ballistic quality ratios for capsularis, olitorius, and mesta fibers. These strength parameters are very closely related. Hence any of these measures may be used for the determination of yarn tenacity. However, for routine work lea testing has the advantage of being very rapid. Conversion factors connecting lea tenacity and single-thread tenacity were obtained. These strength parameters were also compared at different yarn numbers and relative humidity.
A New Instrument to Measure Textile Fiber Friction by a Yarn-to-Yarn Technique
Authors: Koza Walter M.
Published: March 2008

A friction-testing instrument has been designed for attachment to the Instron tensile tester. It provides for dual, synchronized measurements of the friction and contact forces between fibers of yarns sliding over each other. The instrument consists of a micrometer, pressure jaws, and an electrical force transducer to apply, control, and monitor the normal force of contact. The force of sliding friction is monitored with the Instron. With this instrument the fric tional properties of multifilament yarns of polyester, nylon 6, and nylon 6,6 removed from plain weave fabrics were measured by testing rows of parallel yams crosswise against each other. The areas under the recorded traces were integrated to obtain mean correlated values of the sliding friction and normal force. The coefficients obtained from the mean values were considered to represent the average frictional properties of the many similar fibers making up the yams. The results obtained agreed with theoretical concepts of the friction/normal force relationship for polymer fiber friction.
A Study of the Effect of Anhydrous Liquid Ammonia Treatment on Cotton1
Authors: Pandey S.N. , Nair Prema
Published: March 2008

A study of cotton treated with anhydrous liquid ammonia at different temperatures is reported. Effects of treat ment on physical and mechanical properties, chain length, moisture regain, and cellulose accessibility have been studied. The treatment brings about considerable changes in some of the above properties and also in fine structural properties of cotton as revealed by infrared and electron microscopic studies.
The Draw Texturing Process
Authors: Weinsdoerfer H. , Egbers G.
Published: March 2008

The results of extensive research about draw texturing of polyester fiber are presented. Draw texturing was done on a rebuilt Barmag FK 4 production machine. The draw texturing process for which we used false twist spindles was carried out sequentially and simultaneously. The physics of both processes and the combined influence of drawing and texturing on the structural and textile properties of the yarns are discussed. Process parameters like spinning speed, draw ratio, hot-pin temperature, heater temperature, yarn twist, over-feed, and yam tension were included in the tests. By variation of these parameters yam properties were optimized. The physical and textile properties of the yams were tested, with special attention to the uniformity of the yam crimp. A new crimp tester was developed to measure the crimp contraction continuously and give information about the crimp uniformity within short length. The results achieved with simultaneous draw texturing are discussed in detail, especially the influence of the spinning speed (primary spinning) on yarn properties. The properties of sequentially and simultaneously textured yarns are compared with each other and with a conventionally textured yarn.
Thermal Stability of the THPOH-NH3 Flame Retardant on Cotton
Authors: Hobart Stanley R. , Mack Charles H.
Published: March 2008

The thermal degradation of the ammonia-cured, neutralized, tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)phosphonium chloride finish (called THPOH-NH3) on cotton was investigated. Thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) in nitrogen showed a two- stage weight loss on heating, a small loss at about 240°C, and a large loss at about 300°C that was associated with cellulose pyrolysis. Electron spectroscopy for chemical analysis indicated that the small weight loss resulted from loss of a trivalent phosphorus-containing moiety. Oxidation by air or hydrogen peroxide eliminated the TGA weight loss in nitrogen at 240°C, apparently by conversion of the trivalent phosphorus structure to a stable pentavalent phosphorus- containing material. Differential scanning calorimetry examination of the THPOH-NH,-treated materials confirmed the TGA findings.
Migration and Distribution of Crosslinking Reagents in Cellulosic Substrates Part I : A. Semiquantitative Approach for Studying Crosslinking Reagent Distributions in Cellulose
Authors: Kokot S. , Komatsu K. , Meyer U. , Zollinger H.
Published: March 2008

A positive method of staining crosslinked cellulosic substrates using Rhodamine B is described. The results of stainings with Rhodamine B are related to the overall distribution of the crosslinking reagent in the substrate, and a semiquantitative way of extracting a distribution parameter is suggested. Several experimentally induced distribu tions of the crosslinking reagent in cotton are interpreted with the aid of this parameter.
An Improved Method for Evaluation of Antibacterial Activity of the Surface of Treated Fabrics and Other Materials
Authors: Pandila Madan M.
Published: March 2008

The standardized agar diffusion plate method is modified to incorporate the evaluation of antimicrobial activity of the surface of treated fabrics or any other materials such as leather, paper, and painted disc, etc. The bacterial culture is spread over the surface of the agar and the test sample is placed on the seeded agar surface. This procedure affords a direct contact and interaction of the bacteria with the sample surface. Any antimicrobial activity of the treated surface is indicated by the amount of bacterial growth on the agar in contact with the surface of the test material. This method is simple, effective, and informatory and evaluates both diffusible and nondiffusible antimicrobial agents.
Evaluation of the Hand of Certain Flame-Retardant Fabrics
Authors: Paek Soae L.
Published: March 2008

Three types of flame-retardant fabrics available for children's sleepwear were evaluated for fabric hand and ab sorbency. The fabric hand was determined as a linear function of objective measurements of flexural rigidity, coefficient of friction, and compactness and subjective hand rating of the test panel. The analysis of response profile indicated that roughness and openness were preferred to smoothness and compactness for four sets of sleepwear fabrics evaluated. The expected utility value of the test fabric was 0.49, and the level of quality of the IDP fabric was neither high nor low; therefore, there was an equal chance of the class product being accepted or rejected by consumers. The absorb ency of , the test fabrics measured by an average wetting time varied considerably, and it seems from the test result that it was mainly influenced by fiber content and not related to flame-retardant finishes or additives.
Properties and Potential Applications of Nonwoven Crepe Fabrics
Authors: Lamb G.E.R. , Costanza P.A.
Published: March 2008

Nonwoven fabrice to which a convoluted, crepe-like structure has been imparted possess certain properties that suggest interesting potential areas of application. Such fabric structures may find acceptance as replacements for more expensive woven fabrics because of the capability of controlling drape and stretch characteristics to desirable levels. Possible end-use areas discussed are apparel fabrics, elastic inserts in disposable garments, and bags for air-particulate filtra tion. Physical principles governing drape and stretch properties are theoretically considered, and predicted values are found to agree well with experimental measurements on laboratory-made samples. These samples showed ex cellent permanency of structure and good wrinkle recovery. Air-particulate filtration performance of nonwoven crepe fabrics was evaluated. Improvements over flat fabrics in efficiency at equal material thickness, reduction in drag at equal material weight, high dust-holding capacity, and ease of cleaning were observed.
Kinetics and Mechanisms of Detergency
Authors: Kissa Erik
Published: March 2008

Mechanisms of detergency are discussed from the kinetic point of view. In general, soil removal involves (a) an in duction period during which soil removal is slow; (b) a rapid soil-removal period, during which the amount of soil in the substrate decreases linearly with the increasing logarithm of the washing time; and (c) a final period during which the amount of soil retained does not decrease significantly. Since soil removal usually involves several mechanisms, the kinetics of detergency are too complex to be described unequivocally by a simple rate equation. It is shown that the empirical linear relationship between the soil content and the logarithm of washing time can approximate several con ventional rate expressions.

Soil removal is either spontaneous or requires mechanical work, resulting in hydrodynamic flow, cavitation, flexing of the fabric, etc. Spontaneous release of oily soil is related to absorption and diffusion of water in the swollen fiber or soil-release polymer and hydration of the interface between the soil and the fiber or the soil-release polymer. Soil-release agents facilitate the diffusion of water into the substrate and hydration of the soil-polymer interface. Detergency of oily soil from hydrophobic fibers and particulate soil requires mechanical work; it is facilitated by the smooth surfaces of synthetic fiber.
The Reactions of Cellulose with Amic Acids and Anhydride Ammonia
Authors: Bowman B. Gray , Cuculo John A.
Published: March 2008

The reactivity of phthalamic add toward primary and secondary hydroxyl groups in ester formation was studied to provide insight into the mechanism of the same esterification involving cellulosic fabrics. The over-all stoichiometry of the amic acid, alcohol reaction and the effect of the dielectric constant of the reaction medium were also examined. Isomeric pairs of low molecular weight primary and secondary alcohols and also methanol were used as models for this study. Reactivity was characterized by determination of yields in the esterification reaction. Conclusions based on the reactions of the model compounds were tested using polymeric alcohols. The mechanistic implications of the results are discussed.
Sorption of Surfactants in Polyester Fibers1
Authors: Kissa Erik , Dettre Robert H.
Published: March 2008

Sorption of amphiphilic compounds in polyester fiber above 200°C increases hydrophilicity of the fiber and facilitates oily soil removal. Hydrophilicity of the treated fabric depends upon the structure of the amphiphile. Sorption of carboxylic or sulfonic acid salts is related to their compatibility with the fiber or a fiber-like model solvent and decreases with the increasing size of their alkali metal ion: Li+ > Na+ > K+. The parent carboxylic acids to not increase hydrophilicity of the fiber. Quaternary ammonium halides with a long hydrocarbon chain increase hydrophilicity, but primary, secondary, or tertiary amine hydrochlorides are ineffective. The efficacy of nonionic surfactants in increasing hydrophilicity depends upon their hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) values; surfactants with HLB values of 13 to 16 are most effective.
The Recovery of a Nylon Fabric Bent at Various Angles to the Thread Directions
Authors: Chapman B.M.
Published: March 2008

For a nylon fabric bent along a line at an angle θ to the direction of the warp threads, the variation in the time-de pendent bending-relaxation rigidity was determined as a function of θ. A previously derived relationship enabled a successful separation of the rigidity into a component due to fiber bending and a component due to fiber torsion. Re covery curves obtained experimentally were found to be almost independent of angle θ and were successfully predicted from a previous model in which the fabric is considered as an anisotropic linear viscoelastic sheet with an internal frictional moment. The component on nonrecovery due to friction was found to be independent of θ.
Composition of the Brown Material from Oxidized Nylon 6
Authors: East G.C. , Lupton C.J. , Truter E.V.
Published: March 2008

The dark compounds which are formed during the thermal oxidation of nylon 6 have been isolated and analyzed, mainly by thin-layer chromatography. The structures of the dark substances have been tentatively proposed, having assumed that the chemical principles that have been elucidated for the oxidation of pyrrolidine are equally valid for the oxidation of nylon. The ideas that have been developed differ from earlier ideas about the formation of brown materials, in that they are not necessarily based on the formation of derivatives of pyrrole. The new concepts account for the formation of polymers of variable molecular weight which may contain chromophores of variable length and of slightly different chemical compositions.
Spectrophotometric Determination of Textile Lubricants that Contain Poly(oryethylene) Surfactants
Authors: Baggett Madelyn S. , Morie Gerald P.
Published: March 2008

A method for the rapid determination of lubricants on textile fibers was developed. The method is applicable for most textile lubricants that contain a constant percentage of one or more nonionic surfactants. The surfactants con taining poly(oxyethylene) moieties react with ammonium tetrakis(thiocyanato) cobalt(II) (ATTC) to give a blue, water-insoluble complex that is extracted into dichloromethane and measured spectrophotometrically. To determine the amount of lubricant on cellulose acetate fibers, 2 g of the fibers and 25 ml of water are placed in an ultrasonic bath for 5 min. Twenty ml of the ATTC solution and 20 ml of the extract are added to a separatory funnel. Ten ml of dichloromethane is added; the complex is extracted; the absorbance of the dichloromethane solution is read at 620 nm on a spectrophotometer; and the amount of lubricant is read from a calibration curve. The standard deviation at the 95% confidence level is ± 0.07% lubricant. Five samples may be analyzed by this method in less than 1 h.
The Differences in Morphology and Tensile Properties Between the Fibers of Gossypium hirsutum and Gossypium barbadense
Authors: De Boer J.J.
Published: March 2008

There are distinct structural difierences between the fibers of Gossypium barbadense and Gossypium hirsutum. The convolution angle is an especially important criterion. The differences in fiber structure are also expressed in the fiber properties. Strength and work of rupture appear to be higher for G. barbadense than for G. hirsutum. These differences in level continue to exist after mercerizing and reactant treating. In addition to these genetic differences, other differ ences resulting from environmental factors may occur within the species. Such differences may be reduced by means of mercerizing; however, to eliminate them completely is usually impossible.
The Effect of Primary Heater Temperature and Dye Energy on Fabric Dye Uniformity
Authors: Goldin M.
Published: March 2008

It is well known that the dye uptake of a yarn is influenced by its temperature history. At texturing, deviations of the primary heater temperature from the set point can lead to heater-induced, dye-uptake variability. The propensity for this type of nonuniformity to occur is shown to be related to both the dye energy and to the stope of the primary heater response curve. Hoseleg data are developed for determining the texturing temperature which minimizes heater- induced, dye-uptake variability over a range of dye energies, carrier type, and carrier concentrations. By employing a subjective fabrie-rating scale to quantify fabrie uniformity, the predictions of hoseleg data for minimizing heater- induced, dye-uptake variability are shown to be valid in fabrie form. Four fabrie constructions Swiss Piqué, Ponte-di- Roma, Crepe, and 2 × 2 Twin-were investigated and shown to vary widely in their criticality for revealing dye nonuniformity.