FANCY YARNS - AN APPRAISAL
Authors: Vasile Simona , Grabowska Katarzyna Ewa , Ciesielska Izabela Luiza 
Published: December 2023

Abstract

The great interest in fancy yarns area was noticed at the textile market all over the world as well as in science
area. That interest may be the consequence of liberalization in trade with countries like China. Due to liberalization
in fancy yarns sector trade between Europe and Asia, the main Asian producers of fancy yarns compete with
each other to offer more and more sophisticated products. The production of fancy yarns has been differentiated
and enriched in such scale that makes almost impossible to catalog and standardized all the produced types.
However, certain activities has been taken up at The Technical University of Lodz with cooperation of the
University of Gent to investigate the area from scientific point of view, mainly by tests based on fancy cotton yarns
e.g. spiral, loop and bunch as well as fancy elastic yarns e.g. spiral, bunch and flame yarns. The aspects of fancy
yarns implementation into fabrics will be considered as well as positioning those scientific activities at the
European level with connection to the global policy. Therefore, the aim of this paper is bringing closer the
matters concerning fancy cotton yarns and fancy elastic yarns from scientific point of view on a base of chosen
examples carrying out a comparison of physical properties of those fancy yarns, the introduction of those yarns
as wefts into fabrics. The aesthetic aspects and behaviour at wear of final products will be considered.
The first experiment concerns the production, on the ring twisting frame, of three types of fancy cotton yarns,
spiral, loop and bunch which were differentiated in respect of twist, linear density, the angel of lap of pegs by yarn
on the slat of ring-twisting frame (the input only for spiral yarns) and the frequency of rocker's action in ringtwisting
frame (the input only for bunch yarns). All obtained yarns were analysed in respect of real value of twist
(t/m), linear density (tex), breaking force (cN/tex), elongation during breaking (%), air index (m/sec), bending
rigidity (cN*cm) and width of hysteresis from bending rigidity test (cN*cm/cm). The fancy cotton fabrics were
analysed in respect of mass surface (g/m2), friction-mass loss (g), piling, flexural rigidity (mg*cm), tearing (N),
creasing, breaking force (cN/cm) and elongation while breaking.
The second experiment concerns the production, on the hollow spindle, of three types of fancy elastic yarns,
loop, bunch and flame yarns which were differentiated in respect of twist (t/m), linear density (tex), the value of
stretch given to the elastic component (%) and preparation of the bobbin - precise and normal. All obtained
yarns were analysed in respect of real value of twist (t/m), linear density (tex), breaking force (cN/tex), elongation
during breaking (%), air index (m/sec). The fancy elastic fabrics were analysed in respect of mass surface,
flexural rigidity (mg*cm), creasing, breaking force (cN/cm) and elongation while breaking (%) and dimensional
stability. All the statistical analyses were carried out with usage of multiple regression module.