bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Observations of the Birefringence and Refractive Index of Synthetic Fibers with Special Reference to Their Identification
Authors: Heyn A.N.J.
Published: March 2008

Birefringence and refractive indices of synthetic fibers are measured by the polarization color and immersion methods.

These properties prove to be much more consistent and characteristic for synthetic fibers than for natural fibers and rayons, to which previous studies had mainly been confined. These fea tures can therefore be used in the identification of synthetic fibers.

A simple polarizing device for making these measurments using an ordinary microscope is described.
The Nature of the Hemicelluloses of Jute Fiber
Authors: Sarkar P.B. , Mazumdar A.K. , Pal K.B.
Published: March 2008

A polyuronide hemicellulose has been isolated from the chlorite holocellulose of jute fiber. It constitutes about 75% of the hemicelluloses of jute and appears to consist of one molecule of monomethyglucuronic acid linked with six of anhydroxylose, which is the repeating unit. On hydrolysis, it gives methylaldobiuronic acid, which has been investigated as the barium salt; complete hydrolysis of this acid has not been possible. Results of the bromine oxidation of the barium salt of methylaldobiuronic acid indicate that the acid is at one end of the chain, and its hemiacetal group forms the glucosidic link with xylose. There is no free xylan in jute fiber. The only other sugar detected so far in the alkali extract of jute holocellulose is galactose, which occurs only in small amounts. Methyluronic acid seems to be incapable of yielding fur fural on distillation with 12% hydrochloric acid. This methyluronic acid-xylose complex is the main, if not the only, acidic constituent of the fiber, to which, apparently, is due its natural affin ity for basic dyes.
Mercerization of Yarn—Experimental Apparatus and Techniques
Authors: Goldthwait Charles F. , Murphy Alton L. , Lohmann Idas W. , Smith Herbert O.
Published: March 2008

Apparatus is described and general methods are indicated for the study of the process of mercerization of cotton yarn in skeins and for the experimental mercerization of lots weighing up to about 3/4 1b.

Special techniques, including the use of a strain gage, are given for measuring the tension developed in yarn during mercerizing. This indication of the swelling behavior of cotton is expected to supplement the usual observations of mercerized yarn properties—luster, dyeing capacity, and strength—to help breeders and prospective users of new cottons in their selections. Observations of developed tension can also be employed to indicate the rate of mercerizing as the caustic penetrates and swelling causes tension to build up in the yarn, and to show differ ences between yarns and processes even more readily than between cottons.

The equipment is now being used to test yarn made from breeders' samples to help predict the response to commercial mercerizing of newly developed cottons, although results for this work are not included herein.
Factors Affecting the Properties of Rayon Fabrics
Authors: Jameson Lake Hugh , Whittier Benjamin L. , Schiefer Herbert F.
Published: March 2008

The effects of warp tension, number of filaments, and luster of viscose warp yarns, and the effects of number of picks and denier of viscose filling yarns of 32 woven fabrics on the weight, construction, breaking strength, and elongation of yarns, and on the breaking strength (grab and strip), elongation (strip), tearing strength (tongue), crimp, seam slippage, crease recovery, resistance to abrasion, and air permeability of fabrics were evaluated. The relationship be- between strip strength, S, strip elongation, E, and grab strength, G, was found to be The relationship between resistance to abrasion, log R, picks per inch, P, and denier of filling, D, was found to be equally well expressed by the following equations: The relationship between the air permeability, A, picks per inch, P, and denier of filling, D, was found to be
Effects of Unfiltered Carbon Arc Light in Accelerated Weathering of Cotton and Other Textiles
Authors: Dean J.D. , Fleming C.M. , O'Connor R.T.
Published: March 2008

The degradative effects produced in cotton and other textile fibers by unfiltered light from a "Sunshine" type carbon arc lamp were compared with those which occurred in identical mate rials during natural weather exposure tests, in which sunlight is believed to be the chief degrading factor. These comparative tests were designed to afford needed information about the action of short-wave radiation on textiles, and to evaluate the practical utility of such radiation in accel erated weathering techniques.
The Mechanics of Bent Yarns
Authors: Backer Stanley
Published: March 2008

This paper analyzes the idealized geometry of a bent yarn. Expressions are derived for the cal culation of local fiber tensile strain, average strain in the helix half loop, motion of the fibers during bending of the yarn, changes in local helix angles, and fiber curvatures at the bend. The relationships between the geometric quantities of a bent yarn are presented graphically in dimen sionless parameters, and conversions to the usual textile terms are provided. Attention is given to the practical applications of this analytical approach to textile problems.
II. Kinetics of the Reduction of Wool Keratin by Cysteine
Authors: Kubu E.T. , Montgomery D.J.
Published: March 2008

The kinetics of the reaction of cysteine solutions with wool keratin was studied as a function of concentration, hydrogen ion concentration, and temperature by means of the stress-relaxation technique. The reaction was found to follow pseudo first-order kinetics when the cysteine was present in sufficient excess to maintain its concentration constant during the reaction. The kinetics of the process is discussed in terms of the scission of the disulfide cross-links in keratin.
The α-β Transformation in Stretched Hair
Authors: Elliott A.
Published: March 2008

The interpretation of the x-ray diffraction diagram of hair, both natural and stretched, is considered, and attention is drawn to the importance of considering the amorphous as well as the crystalline parts of hair.

Infrared spectra show that there is a mixture of a and β structures (folded and extended polypeptide chains, respectively) both in natural hair and in hair which has been extended 100%, and that the orientation of the β material, at least, is very imperfect. It is concluded that in such a system no simple relationship exists between the extension of the molecular chains on unfolding and the extension of the whole fiber.
The Sorption of Synthetic Surface-Active Compounds by Textile Fibers
Authors: Weatherburn A.S. , Bayley C.H.
Published: March 2008

Data are given relating to the sorption of a variety of surface-active compounds from aqueous solution by cotton, viscose rayon, acetate rayon, nylon, and wool fibers. In general, cationic compounds were found to be sorbed to the greatest extent and nonionic compounds the least, the anionic compounds occupying an intermediate position. The addition of sodium sulfate to solutions of sodium alkyl sulfates resulted in an increase in the sorption of the latter compounds in every case. The sorption of nonionic di-isobutyl cresol-ethylene oxide compounds was found to decrease slightly with increasing length of the polyethylene oxide chain over the range studied. Sorption is attributed primarily to the hydrophilic-hydrophobic nature of the surface- active molecules or ions, micelles taking little part in the sorption process, although there is some evidence that positively charged micelles of cationic compounds are sorbed to a slight extent. The degree of sorption may also be influenced by superimposed effects of electrostatic interaction, electrophoretic charges, and the presence of chemcially reactive groups in the fibers. Wide variations were found in the sorption capacities of the different fibers, and the arrangement of the fibers in order of increasing sorption varied with each type of surface-active compound studied.
Electrical Resistance Measurements on Fibers and Fiber Assemblies
Authors: Hersh S.P. , Montgomery D.J.
Published: March 2008

The resistance of single textile fibers and assemblies of these fibers has been studied because of its relation to the effects of static electricity in fibrous materials. An apparatus has been con structed to measure resistances of fibers and assemblies from 108 to 10 16 ohms at specified tem peratures and relative humidities. Results of measurements at 30°C on some natural fibers (wool, cotton, hair, silk) and on some man-made fibers (rayon, acetate, nylon, casein) are given for relative humidities from 52% to 85%. Some other synthetic fibers (Orlon, Dacron, Dynel, polyethylene, Velon) have resistances too high to be measured conveniently with the present apparatus. All of the materials measured were found to be ohmic and largely free from polari zation effects at voltage gradients up to several hundred volts per centimeter, the limiting values used in the study. The resistivities of all materials tested decreased rapidly with increasing moisture content of the material, the resistivity varying inversely as the 7th to 13th power of the moisture content. Reasonable correlations were found to exist between the resistances of fiber assemblies and the constituents thereof.
Fabric Evaluations Based on Physiological Measurements of Comfort
Authors: Andreen J.H. , Gibson J.W. , Wetmore O.C.
Published: March 2008

Physiological factors such as body surface temperature, electrical conductivity of the skin, rate of sweating, total sweat cost, and heart rate were measured as criteria for evaluating in warm and hot environments the comfort afforded human test subjects by textile apparel. To correlate the physiological parameters with individual impressions of comfort and to assess the contributing psychological factors, expressions of subjective opinion of the different fabrics were solicited.
Distortion in Knit Fabrics and Its Relation to Shrinkage in Laundering
Authors: Fletcher Hazel M. , Roberts S. Helen
Published: March 2008

The dimensional changes in laundering of 15 fabrics knit from cotton, viscose, acetate- viscose, and nylon yarns were investigated in relation to changes in fabric structure. The fab rics included plain and rib knit of 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, and 44 courses per inch, and interlock knit of 24, 28, and 32 courses per inch. The geometry of both finished and gray fabrics before and after laundering was compared to the geometry of the same fabrics which had received a manual re laxation treatment. Measurements of wale and course spacings showed that laundering brought about considerable rearrangement in the structure of the fabrics which had not been relaxed. The data for wale versus course spacings followed parabolic curves for the laundered fabrics and for all relaxed fabrics. The relation of the course spacings before and after laundering and of the wale spacings before and after laundering was linear for the fabrics given the relaxation treatment. Dimensional change in length, width, and area of the relaxed fabrics was usually not greater than 10%, and often less than 5%. Changes in area varied markedly with the knitting stiffness of the finished fabrics, but after relaxation treatment, the changes were small and were not influenced by the knitting stiffness.
Silicon-Containing Azo Dyes
Authors: Sunthankar S.V. , Gilman Henry
Published: March 2008

The dyeing properties and the lightfastness on cellulose acetate rayon of several azo dyes prepared from m-trimethylsilyl- and m-triphenylsilyl- N,N]- bis- (β-hydroxyethyl)-aniline have been examined.

The dyes derived from m-triphenylsilyl- N,N- bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)-aniline have been found to lack substantivity for cellulose acetate and to have inferior lightfastness, whereas the dyes obtained from the trimethylsilyl analogue showed fairly good substantivity and very good light fastness. A comparison of the dyeings and the lightfastness of some of the dyes synthesized from m-trimethylsilyl- N, N- bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)-aniline with those of the corresponding dyes obtained from the methyl analogue, which are commercial dyes, has revealed that the substan tivity of the silicon-containing azo dyes is less, but the lightfastness is more, than those of the commercial azo dyes.

The reflectance spectra of the 1% shades of some of the azo dyes have been recorded, and the Munsell renotations for hue, lightness, and chroma of the color of the dyes have been determined.
The X-Ray Pattern of Sericin and Silk Wax from Bombyx mori
Authors: Mercer E.H. , Meyer F.H.
Published: March 2008

Several x-ray reflections occurring in raw silk and in some preparations of sericin, and previ ously thought to be characteristic of sericin, are shown to arise from silk wax. The wax is asso ciated with the sericin fraction most strongly attached to the fibroin and it is present within the silk gland prior to spinning.
Mechanical Conditioning of Textile Fibers
Authors: Susich G.
Published: March 2008

Mechanical conditioning denotes the alterations which remain temporarily or permanently in textile fibers after they have been deformed. These alterations are the result of changes in the structure of textile fibers. The altered tensile properties, including tensile recovery behavior, of mechanically conditioned fibers were investigated.

Cotton, Fortisan, Ethocel, acetate, silk, viscose, Dacron polyester fiber, Orlon acrylic fiber, Vicara, Vinyon NORU, casein, Nylon Type 300, Saran, human hair, and wool were tested either as single fibers, as multifilaments, or as staple yarns. Mechanical conditioning was performed mostly by repeated extensions (cycling) to 80% of the extensibility. The response of fibers to this procedure varies widely. If a fiber is susceptible to mechanical conditioning due to its visco-elastic behavior, its morphology (length, cross section) and stress-strain properties are altered considerably. The new extensibility and the work of rupture decrease, and the elastic recovery increases. The initial modulus and the breaking tenacity can remain unchanged; they can increase or they can decrease. The yield point can become more or less pronounced, or it can increase or decrease; even new yield points can appear after mechanical conditioning.

In connection with mechanical conditioning, the following topics were investigated : ( 1) altera tions occurring spontaneously or produced by heat and swelling after mechanical conditioning of cellulose acetate; (2) structural changes of cellulose fibers due to stretching (stress hardening and fatigue) ; (3) cold-drawing of a Dacron monofilament; and (4) behavior of a cotton thread after repeated extensions to different strain levels.
The Laws of Static Friction
Authors: Howell H.G.
Published: March 2008

The relation F = aRn between the frictional force and normal reaction is found to hold for fibers, and it is proposed to replace Amontons' law by this form. The friction index, n, is found to lie between 0.80 and unity. The significance of this relation is discussed in terms of the cohesion theory of friction. A satisfactory interpretation can be given if it is assumed that the areas of contact are determined by the visco-elastic properties of the surfaces. A compari son of this relation with that of Gralén's is made. Two important consequences arise from the adoption of this friction law: the frictional force is no longer independent of the apparent area of contact; and, in the case of friction of a string or fiber wrapped around a cylinder, the so- called "coefficient of friction" depends upon the initial tension and also upon the cylinder radius.
Ethylenimine-Treated Cotton
Authors: Drake George L. , Reeves Wilson A. , Guthrie John D.
Published: March 2008

Raw cotton fiber in the form of card sliver was treated in an evacuated oven with the vapor of ethylenimine. The ethylenimine polymerized in or on the fiber and enhanced its ability to be dyed with acid dyes, but apparently there was little true chemical combination between the imine and the cellulose. Fiber treated in this way, along with appropriate controls, was con verted into fabric which was evaluated by various test methods. The results show that cotton may be treated with ethylenimine without adverse effect on the fabric made from it, but, aside from changed dyeing characteristics, no outstanding property has yet been noted for ethylenimine-treated cotton.
Relationship Between Various Parameters of a Load-Elongation Curve
Authors: Lindberg Joel
Published: March 2008

This paper involves a statistical analysis of the relationship between various parameters on load-elongation curves for wool fibers in order to find low-variance single-fiber mechanical prop erties. No consideration is given the functional significance of these properties.

The Hookean slope and the force at 20% elongation in the wet state were found to be inde pendent of each other for one particular sample of fiber. The area under the curve up to 20% elongation was found to be dependent upon both the Hookean slope and the force at 20% elonga tion, and it is therefore unnecessary to determine this area if the latter two parameters are known.
Study on Picker Performance
Authors: Power Billy K. , Towery Jack D. , Hessler Lyle E.
Published: March 2008

An instrument is described for measuring the uniformity of picker laps and studying the per formance of the pedal-type evener device. Studies indicate that the performance of the evener is reasonably good as a yard-to-yard evening device, but less effective for within-yard variations.
Prevention of Soil Redeposition in Textile Cleaning Operations by Proteins and Other Polymeric Materials
Authors: Fong W. , Lundgren H.P.
Published: March 2008

Certain proteins and other polymeric materials have been found highly effective in preventing the redeposition of carbon black, a test soil, on cotton fabric in aqueous cleaning systems containing an alkylarylsulfonate detergent and alkaline builders. The soil-redeposition-preventing proper ties of the various proteins tested were found to be correlated approximately with their proline content. The proline-rich proteins gave good to excellent whiteness retention. Of several synthetic polymer materials investigated, the uncharged types were more effective than the charged types. For the uncharged polymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, and poly ethylene glycol, an optimum degree of polymerization was observed for maximum effectiveness.
Experimental Study of Stiffness and Nonuniformity in the Vibroscopic Determination of Fiber Cross-Sectional Area
Authors: Voong E.T.L. , Montgomery D.J.
Published: March 2008

An experimental investigation has been made of the effect of stiffness and nonuniformity in filaments on the vibroscopic determination of linear density. For the samples studied (tungsten wire, wool fibers, nylon filaments) the effect of damping and of support motion was ordinarily negligible. The effect of stiffness in raising the natural frequencies follows theory, as does the effect of nonuniformity in changing the natural frequencies and in shifting the nodes. When appropriate corrections for these effects are made, the vibroscope provides an accurate method for determining linear density of filaments, the values found agreeing with direct weight deter minations within the precision of the weighing.
Polymerization of beta-Propiolactone in Wool
Authors: Rose W. Gordon , Lundgren Harold P.
Published: March 2008

The reaction of propiolactone with wool has been studied with the purpose of increasing the rate of reaction within the fiber, while still retaining the enhanced felting qualities of the modi fied wool. It was found that the presence of water in low concentration, added either to the wool or to the propiolactone in carbon tetrachloride, greatly accelerated this reaction. Excess water reduced the reaction, presumably because of lactone hydrolysis. Addition of water to the system also accelerated the reaction when ethyl, n-amyl, oleyl, or dodecyl alcohol was used as solvent, but not when methyl alcohol was thus employed. Significantly, the maximum rate of modification in a mixture of water and amyl, oleyl, or dodecyl alcohol was 30% greater than the maximum with water and carbon tetrachloride. Propiolactone reacts slowly with wool in methyl or ethyl alcohol in the absence of water, but with the higher alcohols, as with carbon tetrachloride, little or no reaction occurs unless water or methyl alcohol is present.

The influence of water and the lower alcohols in promoting interaction of propiolactone within the fiber appears to be the result primarily of swelling of the fiber structure to permit pene tration by the propiolactone. In the presence of water the higher alcohols, amyl and dodecyl, can penetrate to cause further swelling and increase in the rate of modification within the fiber.
The Relative Responsiveness of Certain Properties of Cotton Fiber to Microbial Action
Authors: Marsh P.B. , Bollenbacher K. , Butler M.L. , Merola G.V.
Published: March 2008

In continuation of an inquiry into the effect of microbial action and weathering on cotton fiber, experiments have been carried out to determine the relative responsiveness of certain fiber properties to the growth of fungi. Raw cotton fiber and unbleached cotton fabric were inocu lated and incubated for varying periods up to 28 days in a water-vapor-saturated atmosphere with each of three common fungi under pure-culture conditions, and various properties of the fiber and fabric were measured subsequently. In general, the aqueous-extract pH and the reducing- substance content of the incubated samples changed quickly and substantially, the former in creasing and the latter decreasing. Degree of swelling in 18% NaOH and Congo red values changed little during the first few days of incubation, but later increased progressively. Strength, as measured on fiber by the use of a Pressley breaker equipped with 1-mm.-gap jaws or on fabric by the 3-in. ravelled-strip method on a Scott tester, showed little or no decrease. Length, determined by the Suter-Webb sorter method, decreased moderately with one of the fungi, but little if at all with the other two. Wax content decreased, but only moderately. Cladosporium-incubated fiber became measurably and visibly darker. Absorption of the direct dye Chlorantine Fast Green by fiber incubated with Cladosporium and mercerized before dyeing increased markedly with increasing periods of incubation.

Incubation at 95% R.H. greatly slowed down the rate of change in pH and reducing-sub stance content as compared with results obtained in a saturated atmosphere and prevented change in the alkali-swelling response.
The Relation Between External Shape and Internal Structure of Wool Fibers
Authors: Mercer E.H.
Published: March 2008

Relations between the twisted bilateral structure of the cortex of the wool fiber and its ex ternal shape are pointed out. Both the crimped form and the elliptical cross-sectional shape follow the twisted internal structure. Changes in crimp shape are interpreted as a consequence of the unequal expansion of the ortho- and the paracortex. The geometrical relations of the crimp and ortho- and paracortex are traced back to events occurring during keratinization of the fiber.
Studies on the Soluble Proteins of the Silk Gland of the Silkworm, Bombyx mori
Authors: Mercer E.H.
Published: March 2008

The precursors of silk fibroin were extracted in sodium bicarbonate solution from the silk gland of the silkworm, Bombyx mori, and studied by ultracentrifugation. Three components ( s ∼ 1.8, 1.5, and 1) were found, but there was insufficient evidence to show whether these were three different proteins, aggregates, or configurational variants. In solutions containing urea, only one component was detected.

On standing, the viscosity increased and a fibrous gel formed. During this change the sedi mentation velocities decreased and the polydispersity increased. The mechanism of this change is discussed.

The gland extract initially gave a silk I type x-ray pattern and after aging a silk II pattern. The other constituents of the fiber—sericin, pigments, and waxes—were also present in the gland. In the storage vessel the sericin surrounded the fibroin.
Improvement of Luster of Cotton
Authors: Fourt Lyman , Howorth Ruth M. , Rutherford Marjorie B. , Streicher Pauline
Published: March 2008

The flattened, twisted-ribbon shape of the natural cotton fiber is unique among textile fibers, and leads to characteristic differences in the reflection of light from cotton, in comparison with that from more rounded fibers. With natural cotton, there are a large number of small planes set at every possible angle, so that light is not merely scattered, but also is in part reflected in a regular mirror-like way at every angle. However, small planes which are set at the more glancing angles reflect a larger proportion of the light which falls on them, in a manner described quantitatively by Fresnel's law. This explains the shift of the peak of reflection to angles higher than the mirror angle for the general surface, a shift which is greater for cotton than for most other fibers. If corrections based on Fresnel's law are applied, the peak of corrected reflectance is found to be at the mirror angle for cotton.

The relations between luster and the balance between regular reflection and scattering are also shown in the higher luster of sheer fabrics and the decreased luster caused by increased scattering from deeper layers. Another demonstration of the favorable effect of decreased scattering on luster is shown by the increased luster of dark colors, where absorption prevents scattering and leaves the field dominated by surface reflection.

In fabrics, there is scattering by the crossways system of yarns. If the Fresnel corrections are applied, the effect of the crossways yarns can be largely removed, and the effect of weaving crimp made clearer. Weaving crimp produces secondary or shifted peaks of reflection close to and on each side of the main peak, which correspond to the yarn rising up, going over the cross-yarn, and dipping down again.
Improvement of Luster of Cotton
Authors: Fourt Lyman , Howorth Ruth M. , Rutherford Marjorie B. , Streicher Pauline
Published: March 2008

The basic features of staple yarn structure which can vary in cotton yarns include those which depend on fiber factors such as fiber fineness, maturity, and staple length. Then there are mechanical processing factors, such as rate of carding, combing, and singeing, which affect fiber arrangement in or on the surface of the yarn. Finally, there are whole-yarn factors, such as twist, plying, and yarn fineness, which affect luster. These are discussed in three sections, which are presented together because of the use of experimental material which compares more than one type of factor at the same time.

The results show that the three main means of improving luster by yarn structure factors are: ( 1) lowering of twist; ( 2) use of optimum plying twist, as shown by Adderley and Oxley ; ( 3) singeing to remove free surface fibers. Two additional structure factors, which, however, will not usually produce as great an effect on luster at the same cost, are: ( 4) using finer yarns; ( 5) combing.
Solvent Etching of Cellulose Acetate Specimens for Electron Microscopy
Authors: Peck Virgil , Kaye Wilbur
Published: March 2008

A technique is presented for etching cellulose acetate fibers and films by direct solution of the surface molecules. A relatively undisturbed interior layer of polymer is uncovered for replica tion. Etching is achieved by immersing the polymer for a short period in acetone cooled to — 50°C and then flooding with an excess of cold absolute alcohol. The resulting surfaces may be replicated for electron microscopy by any adaptable replica technique. Examples are given of the skin, orientation, voids, and pigment dispersions in cellulose acetate yarns.
A New Method for Differentiation of Skin and Core of a Rayon Filament
Authors: Berry W. Rhett
Published: March 2008

A new and rapid technique for staining the skin of a rayon filament and hence for determining the skin area is described. The technique requires the combined use of two dyes, Solophenyl Fast Blue Green BL. (Geigy) and Aniline Gentian Violet.

It is known that the Solophenyl Blue Green dye will only stain the core of a viscose filament. Upon the addition of Gentian Violet, the blue-green dye will be removed from the core and the skin will be stained a violet color. For the test to be successful, it is necessary that the core of the filament be stained first with the blue-green dye before the violet is added to stain the skin.

This technique is found to be less time consuming than the Victoria Blue technique for selective skin dyeing as described by Morehead and Sisson [2] or the selective staining of the skin described by P. H. Hermans [1].

It is probable that only physical absorption of the dyes by the skin and core is involved.
An Improved Strain Gage for Precise Force Measurement in Single Fibers
Authors: Thorsen Walter J.
Published: March 2008

An unbonded resistance wire strain gage is described that is sensitive to small forces, has high precision and accuracy, and is simple to construct. The low inertia and high stability of this gage make it especially suitable for the precise measurement of stress relaxation in single textile fibers over periods lasting from milliseconds to as long as 2 months or more. The output of the gage is sufficient for direct coupling to recording potentiometers.
The Detection of Modification in Animal Fibers
Authors: Burte Harris M.
Published: March 2008

The tensile recovery of animal fibers in water has been measured in a manner similar to that previously described [1] for animal fibers at 65% R.H. The tensile recovery measured in water was much less sensitive for detecting chemical modification than the tensile recovery at 65% R.H.

Even after very severe chemical modification, water-soaked animal fibers showed almost perfect tensile recovery.
Effect of Single and Ply Twists on the Properties of a 15.5/2 Carded Cotton Yarn
Authors: Fiori Louis A , Brown John J. , Sands Jack E.
Published: March 2008

The effect of single and ply twists on the properties of a 15.5/2 carded yarn was studied, and a comparison made with the results of a similar study conducted on a 31/2 carded cotton yarn. In addition, the properties of a single yarn (15.5/1) were compared to those of an equivalent 2-ply yarn (31/2). Generally, the ply twist-strength curves for the 15.5/2 yarn were found to be similar to those for the 31/2 yarn. However, a change to a coarser yarn number caused definite differences in the twist level required for maximum strength and in the characteristics of the maximum strength plateaus. The elongation characteristics of the 15.5/2 and 31/2 yarns were also very similar, but the elongation values for the coarser yarns were higher than for the finer yarns. With decreasing yarn number, low single twist yarns reacted less sensitively elongationwise to high ply twist. For equivalent single and ply twist multiplier combinations, maximum ply yarn strength values were obtained with approximately the same twist combina tion for both the 15.5/2 and 31/2 yarns; elongation values increased as equivalent twist multiplier combinations increased, with the rate of increase being greater for the coarser yarn. For low and medium twist single yarns the percentage gain of ply over single yarn strength became less as the yarn became coarser. The equivalent ply yarn (31/2) was generally stronger and was, in most cases, lower in elongation than its single yarn counterpart (15.5/1). Ply yarn variability seemed to increase as the twist increased in the component single yarns.
The Effect of Cap-Edge Friction on Spinning
Authors: Crank J. , Whitmore Doreen D.
Published: March 2008

Calculations of the effect of various spinning conditions on yarn tension and balloon size and shape were described in an earlier paper [1]. Here they are extended to include the influence of the coefficient of friction (μ) at the cap edge. Tension is found to increase as μ is increased and there is an upper limit to μ at which tension becomes theoretically infinite. There is also a lower limit to the value of μ below which balloons can only exist if they rub the side of the cap. For a given μ there is a limiting balloon height above which no free balloon is possible and this limiting height increases as μ increases. Tension can increase, decrease, or remain roughly constant as the bobbin diameter increases, depending on μ and the size of the bobbin. For a given coefficient of friction there is a bobbin size for which tension is infinite and an upper limit to the bobbin diameter above which free balloons cannot exist. The effect of friction on balloon size and shape is also in dicated. The radius of the cap edge is shown to influence tension indirectly through the depend ence of the coefficient of friction on the normal reaction.
The Control of Size Take-Up in Slashing
Authors: Jones Eric H.
Published: March 2008

The Shirley Automatic Size Box enables the percentage of size put on any warp to be con trolled at any value, irrespective of variations which occur in the take-up characteristics of the warp, the physical properties of the size, or the mechanical conditions imposed by the machine. This paper, as well as describing clearly the principle of the box, develops a simple mathematical analysis of the regulating system and shows how various factors affect its response rate. Good agreement is shown to exist between theoretical and observed response curves. The essential features of the components of the production model of the box are described in some detail, and some of the advantages to be expected from using the box correctly under industrial conditions are discussed briefly.
Polymerization of Acrylics
Authors: Ham George E.
Published: March 2008

The significant fiber properties of the acrylics, such as high tenacity, solvent-resistance, heat- resistance, and spinnability from solution, are correlated with chemical structure. Observations on second-order transition temperature, theoretical melting point, heat of fusion, entropy of fusion, and cohesive energy density are made. The effect of molecular weight on general fiber properties is considered.

The copolymerization of acrylonitrile with other monomers is treated in some detail, with emphasis on reactivity ratios in copolymerization and relationship to monomer structure. The effect of copolymerization on fiber properties is also discussed.

Free radical, carbonium, and carbanionic catalysis in acrylonitrile polymerization are compared with regard to polymerization method and copolymer formation. The role of azo and per sulfate catalysts in aqueous polymerization is discussed. Aqueous, nonaqueous, mass, solution, and solvent-nonsolvent polymerizations of acrylonitrile are treated.

Dyeability of acrylonitrile compositions with acid dyes is correlated with basic comonomer structure. The copolymerization characteristics of acrylonitrile with certain basic monomers are discussed with respect to influence of basicity, catalysis, and structure.

Alternative means of producing basic acrylic compositions are treated. Aminated methyl vinyl ketone copolymers, allyl glycidyl ether copolymers, and methallyl chloroacetate copolymers are discussed:

Some observations are made on future trends in the study of acrylonitrile polymerization. Hydrophilic acrylic compositions and plasticization for spinning purposes are considered.
Distribution of Cystine in the Cortex of Wool
Authors: Mercer E.H. , Golden R.L. , Jeffries E.B.
Published: March 2008

The paracortex (more stable fraction) of the wool fiber, as isolated by enzymatic digestion of partially supercontracted fibers, contains considerably more cystine than the orthocortex (less stable fraction). This preponderance of cystine on one side of the fiber has also been demon strated by means of a histochemical method involving the deposition of metallic sulfides.

Experiments have been carried out which indicate that the ( A + B)—or more reactive- fraction of the cystine reported by other investigators occurs predominantly on the orthocortical side of the fiber.
Effect of Crimp on Mechanical Properties of Wet Wool
Authors: O'Connell R.A. , Yeiser A.S.
Published: March 2008

Single wool fibers of similar diameter but of several levels of crimpiness were selected from a shoulder sample of Suffolk wool and the stress-strain properties compared. High correla tion is found between several mechanical properties and fiber crimpiness. The low-crimped fibers exhibit greater stresses for equivalent strains than do highly crimped fibers. Differences among the mechanical properties of fibers from differing breeds, Rambouillet, Suffolk, and Navajo, were also found to reflect the differences in fiber crimpiness inherent to these breeds.
Nylon Colored with Large Vat Dye Particles
Authors: Sharkey W.H. , McGrew F.C.
Published: March 2008

The presence of relatively large particles of a vat dye in nylon has been found to give outstanding lightfastness. Nylon colored with large particles of "Ponsol" Red BN required exposures in the Fade-Ometer of more than 200 hrs. in order to obtain perceptible change in color. Ordinary dyeing procedures, in which extremely small particles of dye are deposited in the nylon fiber, lead to Fade-Ometer-fastness for this color of less than 10 hrs. There are indications that this phenomenon is characteristic of many members of the vat color class.
The Chemical Reactivity of Ethylamine-Treated Cotton as Indicated by Acetylation
Authors: Loeb Leopold , Segal Leon
Published: March 2008

The chemical reactivity of cotton "decrystallized" by treatment with anhydrous ethylamine has been compared with that of the untreated cotton and with mercerized cotton. The degree of acetylation achieved under comparable conditions has been taken as the criterion of reactivity. It was found that the full reactivity of the amine-treated cotton as well as that of the mercerized cotton could be maintained only if drying was avoided after treatment. When maintained wet with nonaqueous solvent the reactivity of the amine-treated cotton was found to be of the same order as that of mercerized cotton which had been maintained water-wet after mercerization.

Data are given which indicate that the rate of acetylation and degree of substitution obtained with an amine-treated cotton increase strongly as a function of presoak time in glacial acetic acid.
Comparison of Wools Between and Within Several Breeds of Sheep
Authors: O'Connell R.A. , Lundgren H.P.
Published: March 2008

Wools produced from five widely differing breeds of sheep which were raised under the same environmental and dietary conditions have been studied. By means of stress-strain analysis of wet fibers, certain mechanical properties have been evaluated and differences shown to exist among the several breeds, independently of differences in fineness among the wools. Wools from individual animals within breeds were also found to differ significantly in mechanical properties. The dependency of mechanical properties on the fineness of wool has been found to vary in a manner which indicates that crimp in the fiber strongly influences mechanical properties. Crimpy wools tend to have a negative dependency of mechanical properties on diameter, whereas the low-crimped wools tend to have a positive dependency of mechanical properties on diameter. Correlations have been established between the various properties studied, and high interdependencies have been found.
Properties of Apparel Wools
Authors: Burte Harris M.
Published: March 2008

The aging of top and roving produced on the French worsted system has been investigated by measuring the dimensional changes and the mechanical properties of these fiber assemblies. The experimental results indicate that one consequence of aging is a relaxation of stresses in the fibers caused by deformation of the fiber crimp during previous processing. A brief high- temperature, high-humidity treatment of the top balls or roving bobbins has many of the same effects on the properties of the top and roving as a long aging period at 65% R.H. and 70° F.
Part I: Purified Cotton
Authors: Daul George C. , Reinhardt Robert M. , Reid J. David
Published: March 2008

β-Propiolactone was reacted with purified cotton in the presence of organic solvents. The reaction was found to be affected by time, temperature, and concentration of reagents. Weight gains of upwards of 60% were obtained.

In all reactions of purified cotton with β-propiolactone in organic solvents, etherification oc curs, apparently followed by polyesterification of the attached groups by additional lactone. At tempts to direct the reaction towards either etherification or esterification by means of acid and base catalysis were not successful.

Increases in the extent of reaction were obtained by "activation" of purified cotton with acetic acid prior to the treatments with β-propiolactone.
Measurement of Dielectric Constant and Dissipation Factor of Raw Cottons
Authors: Kirkwood Charles E. , Kendrick N.S. , Brown Hugh M.
Published: March 2008

By use of a suitable capacitance bridge and special condenser, the dielectric constant and dissipation factor at a frequency of 200 kc./sec. were measured for several varieties of cotton and for several types of trash removed during processing. Measurements were made at 70°F and 45%, 55%, and 65% R.H. The results are in fair agreement with those obtained by other workers.
Extensive Animation of Cotton with Ethylenimine
Authors: Soffer Louis M. , Carpenter Eloise
Published: March 2008

Aminated cottons of nitrogen contents ranging up to 29% are prepared by heating chemical cotton with ethylenimine at 140°-180°C. These products are considerably different from cellu lose in their physical and chemical properties. A possible chemical structure for these materials is discussed but is shown to be not entirely satisfactory.
A Multiple-Unit Stress Relaxometer
Authors: Thorsen Walter J.
Published: March 2008

The application of an improved resistance-wire strain gage [3] to a multiple-unit instrument for the measurement of stress relaxation in single fibers is described. Forces are autographically recorded with a precision and accuracy of better than 3 mg. or 1/2% of full scale. The instrument is stable over long periods and is designed to record directly in units of stress, the scale being identical for all fibers.
Abrasion Resistance of Multifilament and Staple Yarns Tested on Modified Walker Abrader
Authors: Abrams Edward , Whitten H. Paul
Published: March 2008

Nine multifilament yarns and 18 staple yarns were tested on a modified Walker Abrader using the same low tension for all yarns. To correct all filament yarns to the same fineness (100 den.), multiple strands of filament viscose 100/40 were tested, and a correction factor was obtained. In the same manner, multiple strands of Kuralon 80/2 were tested to obtain a correction factor for staple yarns. The Walker Abrader results for staple yarns were also corrected to 100 den.

After the results had been corrected, acetate filament yarn was found to have the lowest abrasion resistance and nylon filament yarn the highest abrasion resistance among the filament yarns. In the staple yarns, acetate 20/1 had the lowest abrasion resistance, and Dacron 60/2 (worsted) had the highest abrasion resistance. Comparing staple and filament yarns, acetate staple 20/1 had the lowest abrasion resistance, and nylon 100/40/2.5 filament had the highest abrasion resistance.

In general, the abrasion resistance of filament yarns was greater than the abrasion resistance of staple yarns.
Cotton Quality and Fiber Properties
Authors: Leitgeb Donald J. , Wakeham Helmut
Published: March 2008

The increased use of drying and cleaning equipment at cotton gins has occasioned complaints from spinners that the "quality" characteristics of cottons are being lowered due to "over drying" of the seed cotton prior to ginning. The present study was undertaken to clarify the effects of overdrying on the processing characteristics of cotton and to determine any changes in fiber properties relating thereto.

Three 2-bale lots of cotton were prepared from a homogeneous batch of hand-picked seed cotton by drying in three parts before ginning. The first part was passed through the driers with unheated air. For the second part the air in the first drying tower was heated to 450°F ; the air in the second tower was unheated. For the third part the air in both drying towers was heated to temperatures between 170° and 290°F. Both heated cottons were dried to 3.8% moisture in the lint, well below the recommended minimum of 5%. The cottons were evaluated by means of a small preliminary spinning trial and a full-scale processing trial. Samples taken during the trials were studied to determine the properties of the fibers and the fiber assemblies.

The greatest processing difference between the cottons was in the spinning end-breakage rates, which increased as much as 21.4% due to excessive drying for the high-temperature-dried sample. The yarns showed a decrease in strength, evenness, and yarn-appearance grade for the heated cottons, with similar results for roving samples. Raw-cotton samples exhibited only minor differences in fiber properties when examined by conventional methods. Alkali- centrifuge values indicated significant fiber surface damage with heating; and there was evidence to indicate a greater crystallinity for the heated cottons. Tests for the fiber number-length distributions showed that both before and especially after processing through roving the excessively dried cottons consisted of more short and fewer long fibers than the control cotton. It is believed that the presence of many short fibers is the main cause of processing difficulties and reduced yarn quality.
Flame-Resistant Cotton Fabrics: An Emulsion Treatment Using an Organic Phosphorus- Bromine Polymer
Authors: Frick J.G. , Weaver J.W. , Reid J. David
Published: March 2008

Flame-resistant cotton fabrics have been prepared by treatment of the fabric with an aqueous emulsion of an organic polymer, prepared from bromoform and triallyl phosphate. The finish is durable to repeated laundering, and when applied with proper plasticization to fabrics of 8-9-oz weight does not materially change other textile properties. The treatment may be applied on conventional textile finishing equipment.
Entropy Changes Accompanying the Stretching of Cellulose Fibers in Water
Authors: Bryant George M. , Wakeham Helmut
Published: March 2008

Thermodynamic equations for elasticity are used to relate the force-temperature behavior of cellulosic fibers in water to the entropy of stretching. Water-fiber inter actions may have an appreciable influence on the observed behavior, but this cannot be decided without further experimental data on the swelling and sorption behavior of cellulose in water. A transition in the elasticity of textile viscose rayon occurs in water at about 45°C, with a negative entropy of stretching (rubberlike elasticity) being found above the transition temperature. Alkali swelling of viscose rayon causes an increase in rubberlike elasticity and a lowering of the transition temperature. The elasticity of cotton is primarily due to energy forces, and no marked change after mer cerization is found over the temperature range from 5° to 80°C. Comparison of highly oriented cellulose acetate experimental samples before and after saponification shows that the acetate side groups cause a lower temperature of transition to rubberlike elasticity, due to a reduction in intermolecular attractions. Commercial-type cellulose acetate fibers show effects of extension on elastic behavior which indicate complex structural changes in the fiber as it is being stretched.