bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Analysis of the Surface Chemistry of Linen and Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Buchert J. , Pere J. , Johansson L.-S. , Campbell J. M.
Published: April 2011

Raw cotton and flax fibers and fabrics contain noncellulosic components such as waxes, pectins, proteins, and hemicelluloses, and major parts of these components are located on the outer surfaces of the fibers. In this work, the surface chemistry of cotton and linen fabrics is analyzed with Electron Spectroscopy for Chemical Analysis (ESCA), with special emphasis on the location of the waxes and lignin in the fabric surfaces.
Theoretical Control and Experimental Verification of Carded Web Density. Part IV: Computer-Aided On-Line Control of Carded Web Density
Authors: Kuo Chung-Feng Jeffrey , Hsieh Chien-Teng
Published: April 2011

This paper presents a new on-line control system that is implemented for controlling carded web density. The control system is based on the previous controller design of the worker-stripper group presented in Parts I, II, and III of this series. Theoretically, these aforementioned control methods can make a corresponding closed-loop system for efficient and precise system control, but the design effort is meaningful only when tested by experiment. In this part of the series, the well-designed analog controller can be discretized and used as a digital controller for experimental verification. The worker-stripper group control system successfully operates based on our experimental implementation and agrees well with theoretical analyses.
Characterizing Fabric Pilling Due to Fabric-to-Fabric Abrasion
Authors: Latifi M. , Kim H. S.
Published: April 2011

This paper describes a cylindrical lighting system and its applications for objectively assessing fabric pilling. This cylindrical lighting system allows easy isolation and measurement of pills by illuminating only the pills and suppressing the background. Using this new lighting scheme, the pilling properties in two knitted fabrics are successfully explored as a function of fiber type and abrasion cycles.
Effect of Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance Values of Surfactant Mixtures on the Detergency of Oil-Soiled Single Fibers
Authors: Whang Hyun Suk , Kim Yoo-Joo , Ko Sohk-Won , Cha Ok Sun
Published: April 2011

The detergency of Lyocell and polyester fibers soiled with octadecane or oleic acid is investigated with anionic-nonionic surfactant mixture solutions of various hydrophile-lipophile balance (HLB) values. The HLB values for anionic-nonionic surfactant mixtures, sodium dodecyl benzene sulfate (LAS)-nonyl phenol ethoxylate (NPE), 1-hexadecanesul-fonic acid sodium salt (HOS)-NPE, and sodium dodecylsulfate (SDS)-NPE are calculated at various mixing ratios. Detergency is evaluated by the work of detergency calculated from interfacial tensions of an oily soil/surfactant solution and contact angles of a soiled fiber/surfactant solution, which is in turn compared with the percentage of soil removal determined by the liquid scintillation counting method. This study shows that the general trend of soil removal increases as the work of detergency decreases. In terms of effective oily soil removal, anionic and nonionic surfactants tend to perform best on polar and nonpolar soils, respectively. In addition, it is easier to clean fibers soiled with polar oil than fibers soiled with nonpolar oil. We have confirmed that different surfactant structures with similar HLB values are important in determining the efficiency of detergency. Furthermore, although HLB values of 12 to 15 are known to be suitable for achieving optimal detergency, the SDS-NPE systems well beyond the 12-15 range show better detergency than the HOS-NPE systems in the 10.4-16.5 range of HLB values.
Objective Evaluation of the Hand of Nonwoven Fusible Interlining
Authors: Fan J. , Ng Y. N.
Published: April 2011

This paper reports on an experimental investigation in which important primary hand attributes of nonwoven fusible interlinings are identified and empirical translation formulas for the attributes are established. These formulas can be used to objectively evaluate the hand of nonwoven fusible interlinings based on measured KESF or FAST low-stress mechanical properties.
Image Analysis of Woven Fabric Surface Irregularity
Authors: Sakaguchi Akio , Wen Guang Hua , Matsumoto Yo-ichi , Toriumi Koichiro , Kim Hyungsup
Published: April 2011

Applying image analysis to fabric quality evaluation is suggested as a substitute for human inspection of fabric surfaces. A fabric image is captured on an image scanner, and from it, the coefficient of variation and power spectra of yarn interval are calculated as indices of irregularity in the yarn arrangement. However, neither shows a significant relationship with the results of human evaluations. As another approach to the irregularity of fabric surfaces, the power spectral peak width of the intensity data is computed. The peak width, containing surface irregularity information, shows it is related to fabric quality. The study also shows that the peak width changes with the back beam height.
Synergistic Effects of Trichoderma reesei Cellulases on the Properties of Knitted Cotton Fabric
Authors: Heikinheimo Lea , Buchert Johanna
Published: April 2011

Cotton knitted interlock fabric is treated with purified Trichoderma reesei cellulases. The action of cellobiohydrolases I and II (CBH I and CBH II) and endoglucanases I and II (EG I and II), alone and in different combinations, i.e., endo-endo, endo-exo, and exo-exo, is evaluated for reducing sugars, solubilized oligosaccharides, weight loss, bursting strength, and pilling tendency. According to the results, there are clear differences between individual enzymes and their defined mixtures. There is no correlation between high weight loss and good pilling results, and similarly, there is no correlation between weight and strength loss. Thus, the reduced pilling tendency can be obtained with significantly lower strength losses by tailoring the amount and type of different cellulases in the enzyme mixtures.
Dyeing Wool at Low Temperatures: New Method Using Liposomes
Authors: Marti M. , de la Maza A. , Parra J.L. , Coderch L. , Serra S.
Published: April 2011

Dye exhaustion profiles are determined at different times and temperatures in Lanaset dyeing processes in the presence or absence of sodium sulphate using a commercial liposome. Ecotrans W-8814, and other low-temperature auxiliaries such as Valsol LTA-N and Baylan NT. The contamination load of the final dye baths is evaluated to determine the environmental impact of this new low-temperature dyeing process. Ecotrans W-8814 exerts a marked retardant influence on dye exhaustion at temperatures lower than 70°C, favoring a uniform final color of the wool fibers. The presence of sodium sulphate can be avoided since the liposome vesicles assume the role of retarding agent. The optimal final time and temperature are 1 hour and 85°C at a liquor ratio of 1:50. However, the same dye exhaustions for the three auxiliaries, 98% (for Lanaset Red G) and 80% (for Lanaset Yellow 2R), are obtained at 80°C at a 1:25 liquor ratio. Values of the chemical oxygen demand corresponding to the residual dyebaths with the three auxiliaries demonstrate the lower contamination load associated with the liposomes.
Antibacterial Activity of Cellulose Fabrics Modified with Metallic Salts
Authors: Nakashima Teruo , Sakagami Yoshikazu , Ito Hiraku , Matsuo Masaru
Published: April 2011

This paper deals with the effect of a metallic salt treatment on the antibacterial activity of cellulosic fabrics against three kinds of bacteria: gram-positive bacteria Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus), gram-negative bacteria Klebsiella pneumoniae (K. pneumoniae), and methicillin resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA). Two kinds of cellulose fabrics are treated with the metallic salts CuSO4 and ZnSO4. The fabrics are pretreated with succinic acid anhydride to make adsorption of metallic salts more effective. This pretreatment is very effective at increasing the amount of metal ions adsorbed, and is more prominent in Cu ion than in Zn ion. The degree of antibacterial activity of samples treated with Cu salt against one of the S. aureus increases with an increasing amount of adsorbed Cu ion. A similar tendency is observed for the samples treated with Zn salt, although its correlation is not as clear as for Cu ion. Antibacterial activity is also confirmed against K. pneumoniae. The degree of antibacterial activity of samples treated with Cu salt against MRSA is almost independent of the amount of Cu ion adsorbed, and the tendency is similar for samples treated with Zn salt. After ten laundering cycles, the effect of the treatment is maintained. We conclude that these treatments are very effective in providing antibacterial activities to cellulose fabrics.
Effects of Assembly and Twisting Nozzle Pressures on the Properties of Two-Ply Air-Jet Spun Yarns
Authors: Nergis Banu Uygun , Özipek Bülent
Published: April 2011

The work described in this study focuses on determining the influence of various parameters such as assembly and twisting nozzle pressures, yarn count, and material type on the properties of two-ply air-jet spun yarns produced using a spin-assembly-winder concept on the PLYfiL system. The results show that the tenacity, irregularity, and hairiness of both untwisted and twisted yarns are influenced by changes in the nozzle pressure. Lower pressures in this range generally result in better tenacity values for twisted yarns. It is also likely that the properties of fibers and sliver are factors that affect yarn quality in air-jet spinning.
Electrostatic Discharge Properties of Stainless Steel/Polyester Woven Fabrics
Authors: Cheng K. B. , Ueng T. H. , Dixon G.
Published: April 2011

The primary object of this research is to develop a new material for avoiding electrostatic discharge, which can be used not only in home textiles, electrical and electronic devices, and subsystems, but also in clean-room applications such as the pharmaceutical and optical industries. This paper therefore presents studies leading to the development of conductive woven fabrics to attenuate electrostatic discharge. In general, most man-made fabrics are subjected to electric conductivity and electrostatic discharges. To overcome problems caused by such conditions, stainless steel/polyester woven fabrics made on a handloom have been developed successfully. Stainless steel staple fibers are incorporated into these fabrics as conductive fillers to promote the electrostatic discharge properties of the woven fabric. To facilitate weaving and reduce material costs, blended yarns comprising stainless steel/polyester fibers are produced on a ring spinning system. Attenuation of the electrostatic discharge (ESD) for various woven fabrics is determined by an ESD immunity tester in a voltage range of 4-8 kV. Variations of ESD attenuation of the woven fabric structures, the number of layers, and the blend ratio of stainless steel yarns are described. Typical electrostatic discharge voltage outputs and test methods for ESD attenuation are also reported.
Defect Segmentation of Texture Images with Wavelet Transform and a Co-occurrence Matrix
Authors: Wen Che-Yen , Chiu Shih-Hsuan , Hsu Wei-Sheng , Hsu Gea-Hau
Published: April 2011

Defect segmentation of complicated textures is a challenging problem in automatic inspection. In this paper, we use wavelet transform (WT) and a co-occurrence matrix (CM) to extract features of texture images, then use those features to locate defects on textile fabrics. From the experimental results, we obtain a 92% accuracy rate when determining if the inspected image is with or without defects and an 84% accuracy rate when locating the defect position in an image with defects. We also find that the method's performance is invariant under geometric transformation. This method can be extensively applied to automatic surface defect inspection of other materials such as wood and metal.
Applying a Nonformaldehyde Crosslinking Agent to Improve the Washing Durability of Fabric Water Repellency
Authors: Xu Weilin , Shyr Tienwei
Published: April 2011

1,2,3,4-Butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) is confirmed to be an effective crosslinking agent with sodium hypophosphate (SHP) catalyst for washing durability improvement of cotton fabrics treated with fluorocarbon resin. By FTIR analysis, hydroxyl groups (—OH) are confirmed as a water repellency agent, so the resin can be theoretically crosslinked with the surface of the cotton fibers. The water repellency of the sample treated with fluorocarbon resin and 8% BTCA is much higher than the sample treated only with fluorocarbon resin. This kind of difference can be seen especially after fifty washing cycles and subsequent heat treatments, ESCA analysis confirms that the F/O ratio on the fabric surface changes dramatically after fifty washing cycles and subsequent heat treatment. The F/O of the sample treated with fluorocarbon resin and 8% BTCA is almost twice that of the fabric treated with fluorocarbon resin only. Crosslinks can restrict F loss and transfer into the inner part of the fibers. At the same time, this kind of treatment can effectively improve the crease resistance of cotton fabrics.
Modeling Color Alterations After the Spinning Process
Authors: Dupont D. , Steen D. , Caze C.
Published: April 2011

Color represents an important element in the visual aspect of a fabric. However, during the different stages in producing a fabric (spinning, weaving, knitting …), color evolves due to different surface textures. This paper presents a preliminary approach to modeling color evolution during the spinning stage when the roving is transformed into yarn. After spinning, the yarn is not dyed, and the color depends uniquely on the initial color of the roving.
A New Computerized Data Acquisition and Analysis System for KES-FB Instruments
Authors: Chen Yan , Zhao Tao , Turner Benny
Published: April 2011

The Kawabata evaluation system for fabrics (KES-FB) has been commonly used to measure fabric mechanical behaviors related to hand. However, the data acquisition and analysis technique for this system is obsolete and time-consuming. The purpose of this study is to develop a new data acquisition and analysis system for the KES-FB instruments using LabVIEWTM software and corresponding hardware (National Instruments). Windows-interface programs for each KES test method are created with the LabVIEW system. In order to validate this data acquisition system, twenty apparel fabrics are tested using both the original KES-FB data recording method and the new computerized data processing method. Linear regression and variance analysis are used to compare tested results and evaluate repeatability and variability within the two data acquisition methods. The R2 values of most linear regression models are close to 1.00, indicating that the KES data system has been successfully updated.
Evaluating an Enzyme Treatment of Ramie Fabrics
Authors: Jin Chunhua , Maekawa Masako
Published: April 2011

Ramie fabrics after weaving and desizing are treated with three kinds of commercial enzyme mixtures to examine the changes in some fabric properties compared with an alkaline boiled treatment. The effects of the enzymes on removing pectin from ramie are evaluated. Relative amounts of residual pectic substances on the surfaces of untreated and treated fabrics are obtained by staining with ruthenium red. The content of pectic substances in the fibers after treatments is measured as galacturonic acid by a carbazole-sulfuric acid reaction, then the results are related to changes in whiteness, surface structure observed by SEM photographs, and mechanical properties measured by the KES-FB.
A Numerical Analysis of Transonic/Supersonic Flows in the Axisymmetric Main Nozzle of an Air-Jet Loom
Authors: Oh T. H. , Kim S. D. , Song D. J.
Published: April 2011

This paper reports a numerical analysis of transonic flows in the axisymmetric backward-facing step main nozzle of an air-jet loom. To obtain basic design data for the optimum main nozzle shape of an air-jet loom and to predict transonic/supersonic internal flows, a characteristic-based, upwind flux difference-splitting, compressible Navier-Stokes method is used. Wall static pressure and flow velocity distributions in the nozzle are analyzed by changing air tank pressures and acceleration tube lengths. The flow inside the nozzle experiences double choking, first at the needle tip and then at the acceleration tube exit at air tank pressures near 4 kgf/cm2. The air tank pressure that leads to critical conditions depends on acceleration tube length, i.e., higher air tank pressures for longer acceleration tubes. The air pressure required to bring the acceleration tube exit to sonic conditions is nearly constant regardless of acceleration tube length. The round needle tip shape could lead to less total pressure loss when compared with step shape.
Predicting the Stress-Strain Behavior of Woven Fabrics Using the Finite Element Method
Authors: Tarfaoui M. , Drean J. Y. , Akesbi S.
Published: April 2011

This work is a theoretical study of the mechanical behavior of two different weave types: plain and twill. Traditional methods permit the study of plain weaves but prove quite difficult for twill weaves. Indeed, the difficulties related to modeling the mechanical behavior of the twill weave are due to its very complex geometry and its nonsymmetry, which require the application of the finite element method. This method requires first a mathematical formulation of the problem and then a mesh of the basic cells of the plain and twill fabrics. The next step is to simulate shearing and tensile tests. Analyzing the results has proved to be very hard and thus demands a study of the stress field of the basic cell.
Warm-Cool Feeling Relative to Tribological Properties of Fabrics
Authors: Pac Marie José , Bueno Marie-Ange , Renner Marc , El Kasmi Saïd
Published: April 2011

When the human hand touches a garment that is at a different temperature than the skin, heat exchange occurs between the hand and the fabric, and the warm-cool feeling is the very first sensation. This transient transfer of energy depends on the contact interface between the skin and the fabric, and the contact interface depends on many morphological and structural parameters like fiber morphology or yarn and fabric structure. This paper describes a new experimental device for measuring heat absorption of textile materials in a transient state. The link between the transient thermal behavior and the tribological properties of fabrics is then made to show the influence of contact interface and therefore the influence of morphological and structural parameters on heat transfer. This investigation involves two cotton varieties (Pima of Morocco and Kaba S of Benin), two yarn structures (single and two-ply yarns), and three stitch lengths of jersey fabrics.
Modeling Capillary Flow in Complex Geometries
Authors: Rajagopalan Dilip , Aneja Arun P. , Marchal Jean-Marie
Published: April 2011

We discuss mathematical models of capillary flow in complex geometries representative of the void spaces formed between fibers in a textile yarn. Moisture transport in textile yarns and fabrics is an important factor affecting physiological comfort. We have extended an existing analytical model for capillary flow in circular tubes to more complex geometries. We validate this model using detailed computational fluid dynamics simulations of this flow. These models are used to understand the effect of geometric and material parameters on moisture transport. In vertical wicking in a bundle of filaments, the model predicts that as the nonroundness of the filaments increases, or the void area between the filaments decreases, the maximum liquid height increases while the initial rate of penetration decreases.
The Wicking Kinetics of Liquid Droplets into Yarns
Authors: Chen Xuemin , Kornev Konstantin G. , Kamath Yash K. , Neimark Alexander V.
Published: April 2011

The wicking kinetics of liquid droplets into yarns is studied using a computerized imaging system. A new method is suggested for characterizing the yarn structure by monitoring droplet absorption. The method is based on the comparative analysis of the time needed for droplet disappearance as a function of droplet volume for various yarns. A mathematical model is developed to describe the wicking kinetics. We show that for wetting liquids, the time of droplet absorption Tw is a linear function of the initial droplet volume squared V02. For a given liquid-yarn pair, the slope of this relationship provides important information about the yarn properties. The linear relationship between Tw and V02 is verified by experimental data for a typical spin finish. The model predicts that droplet wicking can occur even if the advancing contact angle θa is slightly greater than 90°. However, for nonwetting liquids, the relationship between Tw and V02 is nonlinear, and a criterion for droplet wicking into nonwetted yarns is obtained.
A Generalized Micromechanics of Continuous-Filament Yarns. Part I: Underlying Formalism
Authors: Komori Takashi
Published: April 2011

A constitutive theory is proposed to predict the stress-strain behavior of a twisted filament yarn under extensive elongation from the structural parameters and constituent moduli. This theory can predict the radial distributions of local stress and strain as well as the load-elongation relation, if the initial distributions of the local apparent density and fiber direction together with several elastic moduli of the parallel fiber bundle at any strain are known as the elemental information. The underlying mathematics is developed so as to be closed before a special assumption to specify the orientational structure of the yarn, such as the cylindrical-helix model, the conical-helix model, etc., is put in force, and furthermore to be free from the critical problem that most of the earlier theories have, i.e., the defect that an approximation valid only for an infinitesimal deformation is assumed for a finite elongation.
Fiber Length Measurement by Image Processing
Authors: Ikiz Y. , Rust J. P. , Jasper W. J. , Trussell H. J.
Published: April 2011

To act as an alternative to existing systems, image-based fiber length measurements must yield precise results in a reasonable amount of processing time. To be used as a calibration device for current systems, the processing time becomes less important than accuracy and precision. Here, we report on the accuracy and precision of image processing applications compared with existing methods of HVI, AFIS, and hand measurements. Further, we propose preferred system parameters for these two possible applications of the technology.
Emodin and Dermocybin Natural Anthraquinones as High-Temperature Disperse Dyes for Polyester and Polyamide
Authors: Räisänen Riikka , Nousiainen Pertti , Hynninen Paavo H.
Published: April 2011

Pure natural anthraquinones, emodin and dermocybin, isolated from the fungus Dermocybe sanguinea, are for the first time used as disperse dyes for polyester and polyamide fabrics using a high-temperature dyeing method, accompanied with a reference dyeing with CI Disperse Red 60. The color of each dyed material is investigated in terms of the CIELAB L*, a*, and b* values, and color fastness to light, washing, and rubbing are tested according to the ISO standards. Emodin dyes polyester bright yellow and dermocybin bright reddish-orange, and the fabrics show excellent color-fastness results. Emodin and dermocybin successfully dye polyamide brownish-orange and wine-red, respectively, but the fastness results are only moderate. This study shows that pure natural anthraquinone compounds can produce bright hues and color-fastness properties equivalent to those of synthetic disperse dyes, and thus providing useful alternatives to the synthetics.
Variation of Longitudinal Modulus with Twist for Yarns Composed of High Modulus Fibers
Authors: Shioya Masatoshi , Itoh Toyoki , Kunugi Toshiaki , Takaku Akira
Published: April 2011

Variations of longitudinal and transverse moduli with twist for twisted yarns and twisted yarn-resin composite strands composed of fibers covering a wide range of tensile moduli are investigated using a sonic pulse propagation method. For twisted yarns composed of fibers relatively low in tensile modulus, the longitudinal modulus decreases with increasing twist in accordance with the cos2α model. For twisted yarns composed of high modulus fibers such as aramid and carbon, however, the reduction of the longitudinal modulus with twist is abrupt, and deviates largely from the prediction of the cos2α model. The relationship between the longitudinal modulus of twisted yarns and the twist angle is derived on the basis of a model that takes into account the anisotropic elasticity of the filaments. The analytical results of the proposed model are quantitatively consistent with the experimental results for various twisted yarns and twisted yarn-resin composite strands.
Dynamic Analysis and Control of a Whole Roller Carding System
Authors: Kuo Chung-Feng Jeffrey , Hsieh Chien-Teng
Published: April 2011

In this paper, the dynamics, stability, and rational model analysis for designing a whole roller carding system are presented. The plant is a stable but sluggish system of web uniformity. The PID controller is discussed for designing a closed-loop system of roller carding. Since the PI controller is basically a low-pass filter, the compensated system usually has a slower rise time and longer settling time. At first glance, it may seem that PI control improves steady-state error at the expense of stability. Moreover, after the location of the controller's zero is properly selected, both the transient response and steady-state error can be improved. At the same time, good tracking and step disturbance rejection can be achieved by moving all of the poles of the closed-loop system into the left half of the plane during the operation.
Shrinkage Properties of Peroxide-Enzyme-Biopolymer Treated Wool
Authors: Jovanĉić Petar , Jocić Dragan , Molina Ricardo , Juliá M. Rosa , Erra Pilar
Published: April 2011

Incorporating an enzyme in the alkaline peroxide treatment bath enhances wool wet-tability and the effectiveness of subsequently applied chitosan biopolymer. Wool whiteness is also significantly enhanced. Wool knitted fabric thus treated is shrink resistant at the machine-washable level, which is one of the most important end-user demands. The formation of ionic bonds between the new sulphonic groups generated on the wool fiber surface and chitosan contribute to the shrink resistance of H2O2 + enzyme/chitosan treated wool. As a result of excessive increases in enzyme concentration in the peroxide bath, the wool surface cysteic acid content decreases, thus diminishing both the efficiency of post-applied chitosan solution and the shrink resistance.
Modeling and Experimental Studies of Mass Transfer in Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Charrette H. , Houzelot J. L. , Ventenat V.
Published: April 2011

We present a first approach to a model and an experimental study of mass transfer in cotton fabrics. After a few global approximations, we base our model on the wall theory, which allows us to calculate the apparent diffusion coefficient of salt in two different fabrics at different flows. Applying this model to textile washing units used industrially, we can obtain the impurity profile concentration in a fabric all through the washing process. With these profiles, we can then calculate the global efficiency of the washing process or any other process involving mass transfer.
Anisotropy in the Mechanical Properties of Thermally Spot-Bonded Nonwovens: Experimental Observations
Authors: Kim H. S. , Pourdeyhimi B. , Desai P. , Abhiraman A. S.
Published: April 2011

Anisotropy is evaluated for in-plane mechanical properties, such as tensile modulus, maximum stress in tension, elongation at maximum stress, shear modulus, and bending rigidity, of three designed sets of spot-bonded nonwoven fabrics. Image analysis is used to quantify the fiber orientation distribution and identify failure mechanisms. The non-woven fabrics in this study have been produced specifically to explore the effects of different processing conditions (temperature, pressure, and bond area) on mechanical performance. The results show that, within a typical window of processing conditions, bond area and bonding temperature have a significant influence on all the mechanical properties. The data also suggest that failure of thermally bonded nonwoven structures is likely to be governed by critical stress-based criteria. An important inference from this work is the recognition that the mechanical properties of thermally spot-bonded nonwoven structures can be described quantitatively through a simple composite model. The results also suggest that the azimuthal properties of the bonded and nonbonded regions, and thus the nonwoven, are likely to be amenable to continuum models of materials with ortho-tropic symmetry.
Effects of Ultrasound Treatment and Dye Crystalline Properties on Particle Size Distribution
Authors: Lee Keun-Wan , Chung Yong-Sik , Kim Jae-Pil
Published: April 2011

The influence of ultrasound on changes in dye particle size and the specific breakage rate of disperse dyes with different crystalline properties are investigated. The results show that ultrasound breaks larger dye particles suspended in water in their insoluble form into finer dye particles and reduces the mean particle size of disperse dyes. The specific breakage rate for dye particles irradiated by ultrasound depends on their crystalline properties, and the breakage rate of a well crystallized dye is higher than that of a poorly crystallized dye.
Effect of Seed Coat Fragments on Cotton Yarn Strength: Dependence on Fiber Quality
Authors: Krifa Mourad , Gourlot Jean-Paul , Dréan Jean-Yves
Published: April 2011

Contaminants in cotton fibers cause yam regularity defects that alter their structure. The effect of these alterations on yarn strength is discussed with particular focus on seed coat fragments (SCF), one of the primary cotton contaminants from the fiber to the finished product. This paper presents the results of an experimental study showing that, in certain cases, the presence of SCF has a significant effect on yarn strength. This effect is closely correlated with fiber quality, and a discussion of this interaction is presented on the basis of different statistical methods.
Assessing the Quality of Four Naturally Colored Cottons
Authors: Price John B. , Cui Xiaoliang , Calamari Timothy A. , Mcdaniel Robert G.
Published: April 2011

Small quantities of four cottons with distinctive hues ranging from light tan to cinnamon and green, grown by the University of Arizona, are converted into sliver and spun into both ring and rotor yarns using industrial-scale equipment. Fiber and yarn tests are performed in order to compare the cottons, and the yarns are inserted into a woven fabric as filling yarns. There is evidence that shade varies with Micronaire value. The weakest, shortest cotton is the dark cinnamon type, which provides the weakest, least regular yarns. The strongest cotton is the champagne variety, which is also the longest and coarsest of the four types evaluated. The strongest, most regular yarns are provided by the green cotton. Light cinnamon and champagne cottons produce yarns of similar tensile and regularity properties.
A Statistical Model to Predict Pesticide Penetration Through Nonwoven Chemical Protective Fabrics
Authors: Lee Seungsin , Obendorf S. Kay
Published: April 2011

The effects of the liquid/fabric surface tension difference, solid volume fraction of fabrics, fabric thickness, and viscosity of pesticide mixture on pesticide penetration of nonwoven fabrics are studied. A predictive statistical model to provide recommendations for selecting chemical protective clothing for pesticide applicators is developed to estimate pesticide penetration through and thermal comfort of nonwoven fabrics. The study involves fourteen commercial nonwovens and eleven pesticide mixtures of atrazine and pendimethalin at different concentrations. Using three mixtures that represent a range of viscosity and surface tension, percentages of pesticide penetration are measured, along with fabric thickness, weight, and air permeability. Statistical analyses help reveal the relationship between liquid/fabric parameters and pesticide penetration. Repellent finished fabrics exhibit extremely low penetration regardless of pesticide mixture or other fabric characteristics, whereas fabric type and pesticide mixture affect the barrier performance of untreated fabrics. For untreated nonwovens, statistical analyses show that pesticide penetration has the highest correlation with the surface tension difference between fabric and pesticide mixture, followed by solid volume fraction and thickness. Protection performance shows a significant negative correlation with air permeability for untreated nonwovens, indicating thermal comfort decreases with increased protection performance. The combination of fabric air permeability and thickness and solid volume fraction can be used when selecting appropriate clothing that offers needed chemical protection while maximizing thermal comfort.
Cotton Color Distributions in the CIE L*a*b* System
Authors: Xu B. , Huang Y. , Watson M. D.
Published: April 2011

Information about cotton color distributions in the CIE L*a*b* is critical to developing new chromatic technology for color grading, since the CIE L*a*b* is a more standardized system than the Rdab system currently used in the cotton industry. The objectives of this study are to examine the distributions of cotton colors in the CIE L*a*b* and to explore models of the probability density functions of individual color grades (classes). Based on the experimental data of the USDA physical standards for Upland cotton and samples from the 1999 crop, cotton colors are naturally separable in the CIE L*a*b* space, the probability distributions of color grades are normal, and the distributions of two adjacent grades overlap to some extent. This work demonstrates how to construct a multivariate normal distribution for a color grade based on the statistical data of samples in that grade, and how to determine a hard decision boundary between two adjacent grades that minimizes misclassifications. The color distribution models are helpful for establishing more effective classification methods for color grading systems.
Carded Spinning of Sticky Cotton. Part I: Stickiness Effects on Productivity
Authors: Fonteneau-Tamime O. , Frydrych R. , Dréan J.-Y.
Published: April 2011

Ever since cotton stickiness first appeared, spinners have been reporting the disturbances it causes in the spinning process. Despite this, few quantitative studies have evaluated the detrimental effects caused by stickiness. This initial section, Part I, presents the results of an experimental study to evaluate the effects of stickiness on efficiency and breakage in industrial-scale spinning. The relationships between cotton stickiness, breakage, and efficiency are discussed for the card, drawing frame, roving frame, ring spinning frame, and rotor spinning frame. Different methods are used to measure stickiness and select that which most accurately predicts stickiness-induced effects: sugar content determined by HPLC (high performance liquid chromatography), number of sticky points determined by an scr thermodetector, and number and size of sticky points measured by H2SD (high speed stickiness detector). The roving frame is the most sensitive to stickiness and the H2SD appears to be the most accurate predictor of stickiness-induced effects during spinning.
Quantitative Magnetic Resonance Imaging of Fluid Distribution and Movement in Textiles
Authors: Leisen Johannes , Beckham Haskell W.
Published: April 2011

Magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) is used to characterize fluid distribution and movement in textiles. The standard spin-echo sequence commonly used in the medical field is not suitable for quantitative imaging of moisture profiles in textiles because the echo time duration allows too much time for signal loss. The signal attenuation is greater for low moisture content and less pronounced for polypropylene than it is for cotton and other materials with higher surface concentrations of water-binding functional groups. A single-point imaging (SPI) sequence, also called constant-time imaging, provides quantitative profile images on industrially relevant timescales. This is demonstrated by measuring profiles of water in wet unbacked nylon cut-pile carpet during a drying process. A comprehensive introduction to MRI is provided with special consideration of water, textiles, and the relevant chemical and physical influences on the MRI time signal and resulting image.
Carded Spinning of Sticky Cotton: Part II: Stickiness Effects on Quality
Authors: Fonteneau-Tamime O. , Gourlot J.-P. , Gozé E.
Published: April 2011

Whereas Part I describes the effects of stickiness on productivity, Part II is devoted to an assessment of its impact on quality. Samples of sliver, roving, and yarn taken during the spinning process are examined to determine the effects of stickiness on product quality from the card to the spinning frames. The first effects of stickiness on regularity are noted at the roving frame. Sliver regularity (of the card and drawing frame) does not appear to be affected by stickiness. The quality of ring spun yarn is more sensitive to stickiness than rotor spun yarn. This difference involves several important criteria, notably unevenness and imperfections.
Properties of Polymer Alloy Fibers of Polypropylene and Cationic Dyeable Poly(ethylene Terephthalate) Prepared with an in-situ Generated Compatibilizer
Authors: Muraoka Yoichiro , Fujiwara Tomoko , Sano Yoshiyuki , Yasuda Tokugen , Kanbara Hajime
Published: April 2011

We have investigated the properties of polymer alloy fibers of polypropylene (PP) and cationic dyeable poly(ethylene terephthalate) (CD-PET) made by melt spinning with an in-situ generated compatibilizer. The compatibilizer, i.e., 1,3-bisphenyloxazoline (1,3-BPO)/stearic acid reactant, is formed in a screw extruder from a 1,3-BPO/stearic acid blend by heating, and the presence of PP/CD-PET results in the simultaneous production of polymer alloy fibers. From SEM observation of the filaments' cross sections as spun, a minimum of 3 wt % compatibilizer is needed for stable polymer alloys to form from these immiscible polymers. The alloyed filaments as spun stretch easily by a drawing process and reach a length of fifteen-fold at 110°C in a normal atmosphere. These drawn, alloyed filaments have adequate tensile strength for practical use. Blending CD-PET and the compatibilizer with PP improves antistatic properties; resistivity decreases from 1013 to 108, and the half-life also decreases to less than 1 minute. The alloyed fibers can be dyed with methylene blue and rhodamine B to produce brilliantly deeply colored alloyed fibers.
Effect of Phenyl Ester UV Absorbers Bearing a Singlet Oxygen Quencher on Photofading of Crystal Violet in a Polymer Substrate
Authors: Oda Hironori
Published: April 2011

Various kinds of phenyl ester compounds are synthesized and their uv-visible absorption spectra are measured in ethanol. Their protective effects against fading of Crystal Violet are also examined in cellulose acetate film. The application of simple uv absorbing compounds is not necessarily useful for improving the light fastness of triphenylmethane dyes. Nickel 4-benzoyloxybenzenesulfonate or 2-benzoyloxynaphthalene-6-sulfonate, however, almost perfectly suppress photofading rate of Crystal Violet. The introduction of a singlet oxygen quenching group into the uv absorber plays a very important role in improving the light fastness of triphenylmethane dyes.
Crosslinking Cotton Cellulose with a High Pressure Steam Process
Authors: Chen Jui-Chin , Yao Wei-Hua , Chen Chien-Hsin , Chen Cheng-Chi
Published: April 2011

In this study, we use dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea to treat cotton fabrics with various processes by changing the bath concentrations. We find that dry and wet crease recovery angles of the fabrics treated with the pad-dry-high-pressure-steam (HPS) cure process are higher than those for other processes at a given tensile strength retention. Crosslinking length and dry and wet crease recovery angles of the fabrics finished with the pad-dry-HPS-cure process are higher than those for the pad-dry-cure process for a given number of crosslinks per anhydroglucose unit. Additionally, the surface distribution of the crosslinking agent on the fabrics finished with the pad-dry-HPS-cure process is more significant than that for the pad-dry-cure process.
Physiological Responses Evoked by Fabric Sounds and Related Mechanical and Acoustical Properties
Authors: Cho Jayoung , Yi Eunjou , Cho Gilsoo
Published: April 2011

This study is performed to determine the characteristics of fabric sounds and the mechanical properties to predict their auditory comfort. In order to obtain quantitative information about emotional changes evoked by fabric sounds, physiological signals are acquired and analyzed when each fabric sound is presented to participants. Physiological parameters employed in this study are electroencephalogram and autonomic nervous system activities, including photoplethysmogram (PPG), skin conductance level (SCL), and the ratio of low frequency to high frequency (LF/HF) from the power spectrum of heart rate variability. As sound parameters, the pressure level of total sound (LPT), loudness(z), and sharpness(z) are calculated. Mechanical properties of the fabrics are measured with the KES-FB system. Bending hysteresis and weight. reflect negative sensations, influencing slow alpha, LF/HF, and SCL. Among sound parameters, LPT, loudness(z), and sharpness(z) influence negative sensations, causing the increment of SCL and LF/HF with the decrement of slow alpha and PPG.
Effect of Reduction and Succinylation on Water Absorbance of Wool Fibers
Authors: Kohara Natsuko , Kanei Mayumi , Nakajima Toshinari
Published: April 2011

Succinylation and reduction of wool fibers increase their water absorbability and enhance the re-use of waste wool fibers for functional materials. Water absorbability of these fibers improves with simple reduction and corresponds fairly well with the SH content of the reduced wool. When wool fibers are reduced and succinylated, water absorbability rises remarkably with increased add-on of succinic anhydride. In its most absorbent state, the reduced and succinylated wool holds 39 g · water/g · wool. The carboxyl groups introduced by succinylation into the fibers significantly contribute to the increased water absorbance of reduced and succinylated wool.
A study of the antimicrobial property of encapsulated copper oxide nanoparticles on cotton fabric
Authors: Anita S. , Ramachandran T. , Rajendran R. , Koushik CV , Mahalakshmi M.
Published: April 2011

Among the diverse fields of application of technical textiles, which are poised for tremendous growth in fast-developing economies such as India and China, non-implantable healthcare and hygiene products are assuming significant importance because of the specificity of their end uses. Today, the healthcare industry is increasingly concerned with the exposure and transference of various microorganisms that are commonly present in the atmosphere. Studies have been carried out in the present work to fine-tune the properties of copper oxide nanoparticles for special applications. Using copper sulfate and sodium hydroxide as precursors and soluble starch as stabilizing agent, the copper oxide nanoparticles were prepared by a wet chemical method. The copper oxide nanoparticles were microencapsulated by an ionic gelation method and applied to plain weave cotton fabric by exhaustion as the first step, and in the second step by the pad—dry—cure method. The antibacterial property of the coated fabric was determined quantitatively and qualitatively using AATCC 100 and 147 test methods, respectively. Techniques such as scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction spectroscopy and physical and chemical characterization were employed to study the phase and morphology of the nanoparticles. The results indicate that the coated fabric has high antibacterial efficiency. The nanoparticles synthesized in this work have an average size of 50 nm, and the physical and chemical properties of the treated fabric are markedly different from those of the untreated fabric. Insights into copper oxide encapsulated coated fabric prove their efficacy against microbes and hence can be used in the manufacture of medical apparel.
Plant-based biomimetic branching structures in knitted fabrics for improved comfort-related properties
Authors: Qing Chen  , Jin tu Fan  , Manas Kumar Sarkar  , Bal Kausik
Published: April 2011

The use of plant-based biomimetic branching structures in textiles can enhance their water absorption and one-way transport properties. In this study, double-layered knitted structures were developed in which two or more yarns were combined at the technical back of the fabric and separated at the technical face to emulate plant-like branching networks. Fabrics with these novel knitted structures were produced on a circular knitting machine. The water absorption and transport properties of these fabrics were measured and it was showed that plant-based knitted structures with two or more branching networks had faster water absorption and better moisture management properties than the conventional structure knitted fabrics. Other comfort-related properties, such as air resistance, were also better for the newly developed fabrics. These novel knitted fabrics should therefore have potential advantages and benefits in terms of the comfort of sportswear and functional clothing.
Interaction of wash-ageing and use of fabric softener for drapeability of knitted fabrics
Authors: Agarwal Gaurav , Koehl Ludovic , Perwuelz Anne
Published: April 2011

This study involves subjective and objective evaluation of drapeability of knitted textiles during the life cycle of a fabric. The life cycle of fabric was represented by forty laundry cycles in this paper. We examined the influence of knitting construction, fibre fineness, number of washing cycles and use of the fabric softener during the laundry cycle on the drape coefficient of the PET and viscose knitted fabrics, and also investigated the order of influence of these four factors on drape coefficient. A high degree of correlation was found between subjective score of drapeability and drape coefficient. We defined the tracking criterion to investigate the relevance between subjective drape score and mechanical parameters. An intelligent system based on fuzzy logic for correlating the drapeability and most relevant mechanical parameter was developed.
A stretchable knitted interconnect for three-dimensional curvilinear surfaces
Authors: Qiao Li  , Xiaoming Tao
Published: April 2011

This paper describes a novel method for fabricating stretchable electric interconnects on deformable curvilinear bodies. An interlaced interconnect integrated with a metal conductor and an elastic substrate has been proposed by using a super fine insulated metal conductor wire co-knitted into an elastic knitted fabric. Its electro-mechanical property was investigated by using a material tester with ball-punch attachment. The electrical conductivity of the elastic interconnect remains constant up to an average in-plan strain of 100%. The interlaced interconnect is able to survive in repeated three-dimensional deformation cycles where the membrane deformation of the substrate is the dominating mode of deformation. The number of cycles before failure can reach over 5000 at an average in-plane strain of 46%. The fatigue phenomenon is clearly related to the wire diameter and mechanical abrasion due to high levels of compression and friction between the metal wire and the ball.