bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Le champ de la religiosité. Projet d'analyse de la religiosité populaire au Brésil
Authors: Tavares de andrade José Maria
Published: March 2007

The author begins by delineating the approach to religiosity that is peculiar to anthropology, as distinguished from that of sociology which, in the main, investigates religion's political and ideological role. The phenomenon he studies is popular religiosity, seen against the background of Brazilian culture — one that is derived, and alive with change. Setting off from Weberian theory and Bourdieu's epistemological frame work, he proposes a new model, as more dynamic and founded on apter concepts.

Side by side with the ' legitimate ' religious structures, such as the world religions, present-day Brazilian society exhibits numerous elements of popular religion. Some come from African or Indian religions, having survived the encroachments of western culture, while others are the remnants of primitive or pagan cults, that were imported with medieval Catholicism.

The article analyzes several such phenomena, as well as studies made recently about them.
Le modèle d'autorité dans l'Eglise
Authors: Van Billoen Etienne
Published: March 2007

Following the important institutional moment that was the Second Vatican Council, the Catholic Church has seen the socio-cultural changes that were crystallized in the often con flicting changes of its system of authority.

In addition, during a period of profound changes the positions taken by the levels of authority have reinforced institutional weight; that is why the study is concerned with the speech that the superior level of authority of the religious Catholic group produces about itself. The French sociologist Pierre Bourdieu is linked to an observation of the teaching system which is precisely one sector of social life where authority is strongly questioned. These thoughts have guided the author to formulate the hypotheses concerning the model of authority in the Roman Catholic group.

To enter into this universe with the work hypotheses, the author presents an analytical grill of texts of which the key does not rest on a regrouping of different themes treated by speech ; it is these speeches themselves which give the key and, more precisely, their literary mechanisms brought to light by a study of pedagogical speech made by Jean Dubois.

The conclusions of the analyses conclude by the speeches themselves, the existence of various arbitrary cultural insti tutions in the Catholic ecclesiastical institution, without that diversity being, all the same, accepted by the superior level of this institution. More than this statement, it is the method itself of the study which rates attention.
Definition of Religion- A Sociological Critique
Authors: Dobbelaere Karel , Lauwers Jan
Published: March 2007

Les auteurs indiquent, pour commencer, sur base d'une comparaison entre les travaux de Berger et Yinger, que le choix entre une définition substantielle et une définition fonc tionnelle de la religion n'est pas une simple question de goût : ce choix exerce une influence décisive sur le résultat de l'ana lyse.

Ils enquêtent ensuite sur la praticabilité des définitions fonc tionelles et substantielles. Il en ressort que la " religion " n'est pas une entité, mais une qualité qui est attribuée à certaines choses et à certaines fonctions par des catégories sociales ou catégories de positions. Une variation est évidente dans ce que certains appellent " religion " et d'autres pas. Il en découle que le sociologue doit porter son attention sur le contexte structurel et situationnel du processus de définition de la religion. Sans cela, il court le risque de reprendre à son compte la définition d'une catégorie de positions dans la société. Cela apparaît avec force en ce qui concerne l'emploi des définitions substantielles ou fonctionnelles dans les théo ries qui prennent parti implicitement ou explicitement au sujet de la sécularisation.

Si le sociologue veut prendre distance de tout point de vue idéologisant dans sa définition de la religion, il ne lui reste qu'une seule alternative : il ne doit pas définir lui-méme la religion, mais la laisser définir par les différentes positions sociales présentes dans la société. La définition de la religion n'est pas un point d'aboutissement pour la recherche sociolo gique, mais elle appartient à l'objet à étudier. Elle est un élément de la réalité sociale changeante que le sociologue veut considérer.
Technology and Social Structure in a Japanese Automobile Factory
Authors: Osako Masako
Published: March 2007

The present research investigates the ways in which the Japanese-factory social structure mitigates the alienating effects of auto-assembly technology. The Japanese employee enjoys dual work roles; as an assembler and as a member of the company community. Because these roles are insulatedfrom one another, his negative reaction to the immediate job fails to contaminate his relationship with the enterprise, which he experiences primarily as a member of its community.
Process Optimization in Peracetic Acid Bleaching of Cotton
Authors: Prabaharan M. , Nayar Ramesh Chandran , Rao J. Venkata
Published: March 2007

Cotton is bleached with peracetic acid by varying the process parameters (pH, temper ature, treatment time, and acid concentration). The effect of these process parameters on the quality of the bleached material is discussed and compared with conventionally bleached materials. To obtain the desired degree of whiteness with minimum chemical damage to cellulose, the process parameters are optimized.
Tribology of Sized Glass Fibers
Authors: Behary N. , Caze C. , Perwuelz A. , El Achari A.
Published: March 2007

Lateral force microscopy (LFM) and an electronic microbalance method are used for a friction force analysis of sized glass fibers, which are generally used to reinforce com posite materials. Friction coefficients of glass fibers A and E, coated with sizes containing a starch and an epoxy film former, respectively, are determined. Friction force values measured between a scanning Si3 N4 microtip and the fiber's surface are smaller than those evaluated between two sliding glass fibers. Important variations of lateral force signals by the LFM reveal the chemical heterogeneity of the sized glass fiber A, while for fiber E, plowing effects and variations of the friction coefficient from one fiber to another as well as a greater friction coefficient than fiber A are detected. With the second technique, there is a large distribution of friction coefficient values due to chemical and/or physical heterogeneities of the fiber surface. Statistical methods are used to interpret the results. Interfiber friction values are correlated to the friction values obtained by lateral force microscopy. The overall results show that these two methods are very effective in determining tribological properties of sized glass fibers.
Producing Medium Count Yarns from Recycled Fibers with Friction Spinning
Authors: Merati Ali Akbar , Okamura Masaaki
Published: March 2007

Yams production from recycled fibers (RF) is limited, and spinners often prefer to produce coarse yams from these fibers. In this research, we attempt to produce middle- count twp-component and three-component yams from RF in such a way that the RF in the yarn core are completely covered by virgin cotton fibers. To improve the tensile properties of such yams, we produce a three-component yarn with a continuous filament in its core, RF in the middle layer, and virgin cotton fibers in the sheath, using a friction spinning machine modified for this purpose. The results show that the appearance of the 51/49 cotton/RF two-component yams is like that of a 100% cotton yarn, and the imperfections of the RF sliver have no significant effect on yarn appearance. The results also show that the strength of a two-component yarn is greater than that of a 100% RF yarn. Spinning a 30 tex yarn from 100% RF is very difficult, and the end breaks are extremely high. In practice, it is impossible to produce yarn from RF. However, producing a 30-tex two- component yarn using RF with new fibers in the sheath is easy and trouble-free, but the yarn is weak. The tensile properties of the yarn show that the strength and elongation of a 30-tex three-component core yarn are greater than those of an equivalent 100% cotton yarn, a cotton/RF yarn, and a 100% RF yarn. Also, the irregularity of the three-component core yarn is less than those of cotton/RF and RF yams. Thus, we show that medium count yams of acceptable appearance and tensile properties can be produced from RF.
Crystallinity of Cellulose Fibers as Determined by Acid Hydrolysis
Authors: Philipp Howard J. , Nelson Mary L. , Ziifle Hilda M.
Published: March 2007

A study of the kinetics of the heterogeneous hydrolysis of cellulose indicates that there are two distinct rates which have been attributed to the rapid hydrolysis of the loose amorphous regions and to the slow hydrolysis of the dense crystalline portions of the fiber. Based on this interpretation, a simple method for the determination of the relative proportions of crystalline and amorphous cellulose has been developed. The method was applied to a series of natural and regenerated cellulose fibers and the resulting "degree of crystallinity," defined as the amount of crystalline cellulose in a sample expressed as a decimal fraction of the total cellulose, was tabulated. Results obtained on four samples of rayon are very well correlated with crystal linity data derived from x-ray diffraction patterns. There is apparently no correlation between the degree of crystallinity and the tenacity of five samples of rayon. In six samples of Stone , ville cotton there appeared to be no relationship between the degree of crystallinity and crystal lite orientation. There are indications that the ultimate elongation and the moisture absorption of the rayon samples are proportional to the content of amorphous cellulose.
The Amino Acid Analysis of Cuticle-Rich Material from Wool
Authors: Bradbury J.H.
Published: March 2007

Cuticle material of various degrees of purity was obtained in yields ranging from 0.2% to 7.2% of the weight of the fiber by using descalers of different sharpness. Microscopic examination of the cuticle-rich material and the residual fibers abraded aiong one side showed that the material becomes richer in cuticle as the yield decreases. The material collected in 0.5-0.7% yield consists of about 50% cuticle and for the three saniples of wool contains on the average 27% more proline and 40% less aspartic acid plus glutamic acid than the parent fibers. In one sample the cuticle-rich material is richer in glycine (39%) and in another richer in cystine (22%) than the parent fibers. The high proline content of the cuticle is consistent with its amorphous nature and the dearth of free carboxyl groups, interesting because of Lindberg's suggestion that the barrier to diffusion of dyes into the fiber is electrical in nature. However, other evidence indicates that the barrier is most probahly the epicuticle, which constitutes < 2% of the material analyzed.
Effect of the Technique of Exposure on the Characteristic Parameters which can be Derived from X-Ray Exposures of Rayon
Authors: Hermans P.H. , Weidinger A.
Published: March 2007

Attention is drawn to the distortion of the X-ray diffraction picture by "white radi ation" when using a nickel filter and by radiation scattered by air. Means are proposed to minimize these effects. A new parameter is introduced to characterize the lateral order in rayons.
Imparting Wrinkle Resistance to Cotton with 1,1-Carbonylbisaziridine
Authors: Chance Leon H. , Perkins Rita M. , Reeves Wilson A.
Published: March 2007

Cotton print cloth and broadcloth were made wrinkle resistant by treating with curbonylbisaziridine (CBA) by the conventional process of padding, drying, and curing. Data are presented for fabric treated with and without the use of an acid catalyst, zinc fluoborate. An aftertreatment with Primenit VS emulsion2 increased the crease recovery angle. Monsanto crease angles of over 300° were obtained with resin add-ons as low as 4.5%. In general the Elmendorf tearing strength was reduced 40-50%. This was improved somewhat by the use of a softener. The finish was quite stable to home laundering. When no catalyst was used in the solution, a reduction in breaking strength was observed after the chlorine bleach and scorch. When freshly prepared CBA solutions containing zinc fluoborate were used. there was no reduction in the strength of fabric after the chlorine bleach and scorch. However, all fabrics containing the finish were discolored in the scorched areas.
Cross-Linking of Partially Cyanoethylated Cotton
Authors: Negishi Michiharu , Ito Heihachiro , Takahashi Kunio
Published: March 2007

By 0 1-0.5% hydrochloric acid scouring, which has been shown to prevent the dis coloration of the amidoximates of partially cyanoethylated cotton fabrics in the previous paper, it was found that the amidoximate hydrochloride salt might be formed. In com parison with unscoured amidoximates, the scoured matertal, even when formaldehyde- cured under noncatalyzed neutral conditions, with or without tension, had exceedingly improved crease resistance without much loss in tensile strength, elongation, and tear strength. The softness of cotton was retained. It was deduced that the amidoximate hydrochloride might presumably split off hydrochloric acid and act as a self-catalyst in the formaldehyde-curing.
The Improvement of the Wrinkle Recovery of Cotton by Reaction with Formaldehyde
Authors: O'Brien S.J. , van Loo W.J.
Published: March 2007

Data are presented showing the reaction of formaldehyde with cotton fabric using phosphoric acid, magnesium chloride, and zinc nitrate as catalysts and the improvement in wrinkle recovery of the fabric obtained by these treatments. A theoretical equation which fits the relationship between improvement in wrinkle recovery and concentration of formaldehyde reacted with cotton was derived which suggests that only part of the reacted formaldehyde is involved in the cross-linking of cellulose molecules.
Studies in the Reaction of Formaldehyde with Unmodified, Modified, and Dyed Celluloses
Authors: Datye Keshav V.
Published: March 2007

The kinetics of the reaction of formaldehyde with cotton cellulose have been studied, using acidified formaldehyde solutions containing large amounts of calcium chloride The fiber substance was steeped up to 8 hr at 16°-60° C, then treated with boiling water and conditioned. The formaldehyde yield (combined formaldehyde, CF) was then esti mated colormetrically. The reaction is resolved into two simultaneous reactions, one faster than the other. The initial fast reaction obeys first-order kinetics, while the slower reaction in the later stages appears to obey zero-order kinetics. The rate of the former increases with the concentration of the ingredients of the reaction mixtures and with rise of temperature. Further, the fast reaction reaches equilibrium within a short period from the start of the reaction. The equilibrium combined formaldehyde increases with temperature up to 42.5° C exhibiting an apparent heat for the fast reaction of ca 7 kcal/mole. The rate of the slower reaction decreases with temperature. The over-all rate of reaction is determined also by the rate of acid hydrolysis of cellulose and the rate of diffusion of the reactants into the fiber substance and water molecules away from the site of the reaction. The combined formaldehyde value at any time is directly pro portional to the formaldehyde concentration under all conditions studied, while at 16°C it is also proportional to the concentration of hydrogen chloride. Further, with increase in calcium chloride concentration it increases to a maximum and then decreases or re mains unchanged. It is concluded that the initial fast reaction is restricted to the hydroxyl groups on the surface of the fiber substance, while the slower reaction seems to take place with the free hydroxyl groups in the interior of the material.
The Effects of Iodination and Related Modifications on the Supercontraction of Wool Fibers
Authors: Crewther W.G. , Dowling L.M.
Published: March 2007

Iodination of wool fibers in ethanol or n-propanol accelerates the first stage and retards the second stage of supercontraction. Iodination in aqueous KI3 has little effect on the rate of the first stage but retards the second stage of supercontraction. Evidence is presented that the rate of supercontraction is affected by at least two chemical processes which occur during iodination in ethanol : oxidation of sulfhydryl and disulfide groups, and the reaction of ethanol with the fiber in the presence of HI with consequent esterifica tion of carboxyl groups. Oxidative treatments, such as reaction with peracetic acid, aqueous KI3, or ethanolic I2 are considered to retard sulfhydryl-disulfide interchange reactions which determine the rate of the second stage of supercontraction.
Naturally Occurring Electron Paramagnetic Resonance in Wool
Authors: Windle J.J.
Published: March 2007

A naturally occurring electron resonance. spectrum has been detected in raw wool and in exhaustively scoured wool fibers and cloth. A similar resonance has been found in silk fibers. These spectra consist of a single line about 10 gauss wide centered at g = 2.003. Paramagnetic impurities in wool give rise to another much broader resonance which varies in intensity, g-value. and line width. The origin and nature of these resonances are discussed.
The Utilization of Diplodia-Damaged Boll-Rot Cotton
Authors: Sands J.E. , Fiori L.A. , Groves N.H. , Marsh P.B.
Published: March 2007

A limited quantity of specially selected seed cotton that had been damaged severely in the field by the common boll-rot fungus Diplodia sp. was roller-ginned and processed, along with a white control cotton, into blends containing 2.5%, 5.0%, 10.0%, and 35.0%. by weight, of the Diplodia-damaged lint. It was shown that the 35.0% blend could not be spun into a 38/1 (16 tex) yarn without an excessive number of ends down. The 10.0% blend could be utilized more efficiently in coarser-than-38/1 (16 tex) yarns. The 2.5% and 5.0% blends were spun into 38/1 (16 tex) yarns without an excessive number of ends down. The yarns from these two blends did not differ significantly from yarns spun from the control cotton in length uniformity, appearance grade, or yarn breaking tenacity and elongation. All cases of reduced processing efficiency and product quality in any of the blends, in comparison to the white control, were shown to be related to the short fiber content of the blends.

Diplodia-damaged and undamaged bolls occur regularly together within a single cotton field, with a resulting admixture of the two kinds of fiber in the bale. Field observations suggest that in commercial bales amounts of fungus-damaged fiber in excess of that represented by the experimental 5% blend here employed are rare.
Energy Storage in an Axially and Laterally Loaded Filament
Authors: Moskowitz Gordon D. , Suppiger Edward W.
Published: March 2007

An analytical and experimental study of the energy storage in a fabric element is pre sented in this paper. The flexural and the tensile energies are evaluated and compared for a better understanding of filament response under static loadings. Past analyses of textile fabrics have been based on various assumptions regarding the storage of strain energy in the fabric; as a result of this study it appears that an analysis that is based on tensile energy storage (and that neglects flexural energy storage) may adequately describe the behavior of the common fabric configurations.
Draft Allocation and Tensor Setting in a Sliver-to-Yarn Drafting System for Cotton
Authors: Audivert R. , Vidiella J.E.
Published: March 2007

This work investigates the effect of draft allocation on yarn properties in a sliver-to varn drafting system consisting of a back draft zone, an intermediate condensing zone, and a final draft zone. Back and front zones were of the double apron type. The effect of a range of pin openings for the front apron nip was also investigated.

Results showed that for optimum yarn properties, back draft D1 and total draft D should be related to each other so that D1 = K √D, where K is a parameter dependent on drafting efficiency and is close to unity. Optimum yarn properties were obtained with the smallest available tensor in the front zone. Finally, in an attempt to explain results on the basis of previous theoretical work by other writers, it was shown that for ideal conditions D1 = √D.
Mathematical Aspects of Cotton Fiber Length Distribution under Various Breakage Models
Authors: Shapiro Harold N. , Sparer Gerson , Gaffney Harry E. , Armitage Russell H. , Tallant John D.
Published: March 2007

Mathematical models of cotton fiber length distribution under various breakage models are discussed. Theoretical analyses are given, including the demonstration of certain factors, capable of measurement. which afford the possibility for numerical con firmation of the respective models. For example, the model for random fiber breakage independent of length shows that

where μ F and μ G are the means and γ F and γ G are the absolute second moments about the origin of the parent and daughter populations, respectively. In addition, mathematical models, somewhat more complicated, are given when breakage is proportional to length and for the case where the fibers are held and then subjected to breakage.
Wet Spinning of High-Strength, Low-Elongation Polyvinyl Alcohol Fibers
Authors: Zwick M.M. , van Bochove C.
Published: March 2007

The considerations that influence the selection of polymers and spmning conditions for the purpose of preparing a high-strength, low-elongation type of polyvinyl alcohol fiber for use as a reinforcing component in rigid, cold-hardening resins are discussed. A number of polyvinyl alcohol products from commercial sources were spun, and their fibers evaluated. The two products that gave the best over-all results yielded fibers with a tensde strength of 9-10 g/den and a breaking elongation of 4.5-5%. Elongations at break as small as 3.5% were obtamed with two low-molecular-weight samples. '

To attain optimum values of strength and stiffness with any polyvinyl alcohol, a careful build-up of the fiber fine structure is necessary. This was brought about in wet spinning by slowing down fiber coagulation, as well as other processing steps.
Laboratory Evaluation of Wrinkle Recovery
Authors: Abbott Norman J.
Published: March 2007

Wrinkle recovery measurements made at 65% RH provide information which may not be related to the performance of the fabric under service conditions. For some pur poses, more useful information is obtained when the specimen is creased in a high- humidity atmosphere and then allowed to recover at a lower humidity. The influence of several variables in such a test have been studied for the commonly-used "vertical strip" technique. A new technique is also described, using an instrument known as the FRL2 Wrinkler. Correlation between several laboratory tests and performance in service is examined. The FRL2 Wrinkler test is the only one which gave perfect correlation. Additional work is being carrier out to verify the general applicability of the method, using fibers and fabric constructions entirely different from those described in this paper.
Wind Penetration Through Fabric Systems—Part II
Authors: Fonseca G.F. , Breckenridge J.R.
Published: March 2007

The earlier study of spaced double windbreak layers was extended to determine the decrease in effectiveness of such systems when porous materials are used in the inter vening space to insure positive separation of layers. It was shown that mesh spacers caused little decrease in the efficiency of the system. Lower values of heat transfer coefficients were obtained by keeping the air penetration through the outer windbreak within the air handling capacity of the space than by letting large quantities of air into the space and blocking further penetration with an inner windbreak of low permeability. Where there was little penetration of the outer windbreak layer, the still air in the air space increased the insulation over that where the layers were unspaced. Results with loose-fitting systems were found to be similar to those for tight-fitting systems, provided that penetration of the inner windbreak was not excessive. Finally, the laboratory findings were cbrroborated by a field study of clothing incorporating the spaced-windbreak principle.
Spunbonded Products—A New Concept in Utilization of Fibrous Materials
Authors: Shealy Otis L.
Published: March 2007

The principal structural features of spunbonded products are described, and these structural features are related to physical properties. of the materials and to textile performance.
Correlation of Fatigue with the Dynamic Modulus of Polymers
Authors: Grover E.B. , Dillon J.H. , Suppiger E.W.
Published: March 2007

An experimental investigation of the relationship between fatigue and dynamic modulus of two polymers, using wave propagation techniques, has shown that the deter mination of dynamie modulus during constant-rate elongation of partially fatigued samples yields Information about the extent of fatigue, which is unobtainable from measurements of modulus during fatigue or from a conventional stress-strain test of the fatigued samples. It is possible to differentiate between normal and fatigued samples by comparing values of dynamic modulus at an arbitrary elongation subsequent to fatiguing. For polyethylene samples, a "fatigue severity index," based on frequency and stroke of axial cycling, is defined. The dynamic modulus measured subsequent to fatiguing is dependent on this index. The creep behavior of the two polymers tested. as reflected in measurement of dynamic modulus, is essentially different from the fatigue behavior disclosed by the same type of measurements. The dynamic modulus, measured subsequent to creep testing and during constant-rate elongation, provides information not obtainable by measurements during creep or from the stress-strain test by itself. The results support the theory that fatigue failure is due to fracture caused by the' formation and growth of micro-flaws under the conditions of frequency, strain, and temperature employed in the experiments.
ESR Spectra of Gamma-Irradiated Cotton Cellulose I and II
Authors: Arthur Jett C. , Mares Trinidad , Hinojosa Oscar
Published: March 2007

Irradiation of purified fibrous cotton cellulose I and cotton cellulose II (mercerized) with γ-radiation from Co"" gave products containing relatively stable free radicals, easily shown in electron spin resonance (ESR) spectra. The ESR spectrum of irradi ated cellulose I consisted ,of three, lines, and the spectrum of irradiated cellulose II consisted of five lines. The principal lines of both spectra occurred at about the free electron value, and the symmetry of the spectra indicated equal interaction of hydrogen nuclear spins with the free radical. In the case of the three-line spectrum of irradiated cellulose I, this could occur on the formation of a free radical on the cleavage of the H atom from C5, cleavage of the OH group from C6, or cleavage of the H atom from the OH group of C6. The principal line of the spectra for each of these radicals would probably occur at ahout the same value, but the interaction of the equivalent hydrogens on C6 with either of the radicals would result in a different line width splitting. C5 is the most likely site of the free radical due to the delocalizing effect of the oxygen atom to which it is attached. In the case of the observed five-line spectrum of irradiated cellulose II this could occur on the formation of two free radicals which individually yield three lines. The principal lines of the spectra of these radicals would occur at about the same value and the less intense lines, due to equivalent hydrogen interactions of each spectrum, would occur at different line widths. One radical would likely form at C5 as described for cellulose I and the second radical at C6 on the same anhydroglucose unit or on another anhydroglucose unit in the same unit cell by either H atom or OH group cleavage. The formation of this second radical in cellulose II, compared with one radical in cellulose I. is further, evidence of differences in the internal forces in the unit cell on change of the lattice type from I to II, This could, be interpreted as a rearrangement in hydrogen bonding in the unit cell of cellulose II, compared with cellulose I, through the —CH 2OH (C6) group of the anhydroglucose unit. This bond ing would have a delocalizing effect on C6, thereby increasing the chances of forming a second radical.
Transverse Compressive Moduli and Yield Behavior of Some Orthotropic, High-Modulus Filaments
Authors: Phoenix S.L. , Skelton J.
Published: March 2007

An account is given of the experimental determination of the transverse elastic moduli and yield behavior of some commercially available organic and graphite high-modulus filaments. The experimental technique involves transverse compression of single cylindrical filaments between two parallel flat platens and concurrent measurement of the platen- relative displacements and contact forces on the filaments. A theoretical discussion of the transverse compressional behavior of a linear elastic, homogeneous, orthotropic cylinder is presented. Using the theoretical results and the trans verse load-displacement measurements, a technique is developed for calculating the elastic moduli and maximum shear stresses at yield or fracture.
An Analysis of the Bending and Shear Properties of Woven, Double-Knitted, and Warp-Knitted Outerwear Fabrics
Authors: Gibson Viki L. , Postle Ronald
Published: March 2007

Mechanical properties of a wide range of commercially-produced outerwear fabrics have been analyzed in terms of the elastic and frictional resistance to bending and shear deformations. The fabrics tested include wool and wool-synthetic blend woven fabrics, wool and textured polyester double-knits, and synthetic warp-knits; some plain single jersey knitted fabrics are also included for comparison purposes Features of the bending and shear deformation and recovery curves such as their shape, asymmetry, linearity, and degree of hysteresis are discussed for each. Finishing has an enormous effect on the bending properties of all the woven fabrics an on the knitted synthetic fabrics, although the effect is less (although still significant) for knitted wool fabrics; the frictional resistance to deformation (in both bending and shear) is always much more critically affected by finishing than is the elastic rigidity of the fabric. Statistical correlations between the elastic and frictional parameters of deformation are explained in physical terms related to the basic fabric construction. Fabric bending properties are shown to depend largely on fabric thickness and other constructional variables, but shear properties show much less systematic variation with such parameters and are largely determined by the type of fabric construction itself. The effect of finishing is also much less for shear than for bending, particularly in the case of knitted structures. The frictional resistance to bending and shear deformations may be used to construct a two-dimensional fabric chart in which each group of fabrics falls into a separate area according to fabric structure and fiber type. This chart may be related to such fabric characteristics as tailorability, drape, and handle.
Complexes of Cellulose with Cyclic Amines and Diamines
Authors: Creely J.J. , Wade R.H.
Published: March 2007

Several aromatic amines and one heterocyclic amine were applied to cotton cellulose in an attempt to form hydrogen bonded complexes. The complexes formed with aniline, benzylamine, and furfurylamine were relatively unstable, but that formed with p-phenylenediamine was relatively stable. All samples required pretreatment with ethylamine to form the product. The complexes were characterized by x-ray diffraction techniques in which the distension of the 101 planes was compared to that of the aliphatic amine-cellulose complexes. Similarity was noted between d(101) of cyclic amine- celluloses and of aliphatic amine-celluloses when computed molecular lengths of the amines were similar. A 1:1 ratio of amine to anhydroglucose units in the furfurylamine-cellulose was indicated by thermogravimetric analysis. The p phenyl enediamine-cellulose decomposed between 150 and 300°C and had a 1:2 ratio of diamine to AHG units.
The Effect of Reactive Dyes on the Flammability and Physical Properties of Polyester/Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Hopkins Donna L. , Buchanan David R.
Published: March 2007

A series of cotton polyester fabrics was dyed at several levels with two Procion fiber-reactive dyes. Both oxygen index and ignition time showed small reductions as a result, but maximum heat transfer rate in the Mushroom Apparel Flamma bility Tester (MAFT) was unaffected. Small differences in fabric breaking strength and tear strength also were observed. These results suggest that, although the dye effects were small in this case, they may be more important in others.
Prepolymers of Chloroalkyl Phosphonates and Polyethylenimine as Flame Retardants for Cotton-Containing Fabrics
Authors: Bertoniere Noelie R. , Rowland Stanley P.
Published: March 2007

Water-soluble prepolymers of predominantly monomeric (Antiblaze 78) and dimeric (Antiblaze 77) chloroalkyl phosphonates and polyethylenimine (PEI) were prepared and applied to lightweight cotton containing fabrics These prepolymers imparted flame resistance to all-cotton fabrics and to a lesser degree to cotton poly ester blends. The most effective prepolymers were prepared from 3:1 mole ratios of Antiblaze 78:PEI and 2:1 or 3:1 Antiblaze 77:PEI. High levels of add-on were required for flame retardance. Flame retarded cotton fabrics had a full bodied hand, were pale yellow in color, and were durable to 10 laundering cycles. The Antiblaze:PEI finishes had little effect on resilience of all cotton fabrics; retentions of breaking strength and abrasion resistance were high.
The Microfibril-Matrix Relationships in the Mechanical- . Properties of Keratin Fibers
Authors: Feughelman M.
Published: March 2007

When a keratin fiber has been "melted" in water at an elevated temperature (for wool, approximately 130°C), or held extended at a fixed strain in water at 100°C, the modification in the torsional properties of the fiber is similar for both treatments, the torsional rigidity of the fiber in water being reduced progressively with progressive treatment. The reduc tion in the rigidity can be explained by postulating the creation of zones of weakness along the microfibrils of the micro fibrillar-matrix structure of keratin fibers. The formation of these zones of weakness introduces the possibility of the microfibrillar structure absorbing a proportion of the shear strain in a fiber in torsion and thus reducing the overall rigidity of the fiber.
Fiber-Reactive Polymethine Dyes Containing the N-2,3-Dibromopropionyl and N-Chlorodifluoropyrimidyl Groups
Authors: Gale Douglas J. , Wilshire John F.K.
Published: March 2007

Several fiber reactive basic (polymethine) dyes containing the N-2,3-dibromopropionyl and N-chlorodifluoropyrimidyl groups have been prepared. They had better washfastness and lightfastness on wool than their nonreactive analogues. Attempts were made to prepare related fiber-reactive dyes containing the 2,4-dichloro- s-triazinyl group but the results were unsatisfactory.
Phosphorylation of Nylon 6
Authors: El Garf S.A. , El Mehy A.A. , Abou Steet Y.Z. , Morsi A.M.
Published: March 2007

Nylon-6 fibers were phosphorylated with diisopropyl phosphorochloridate (DIPC), and the reaction was confirmed by ir spectra. The phosphorus content and percentage of carbon residue were determined. The effect of the reaction temperature, the molar ratio of reactants, and the time of reaction were studied. It was found that the increase in reaction temperature from 30 to 80°C results in a slight increase in phosphorus content, while a relatively considerable increase in phosphorus content was observed when the temperature increased to 110°C. It was also observed that the carbon residue is directly proportional to the increase in phosphorus content. It was found that the best results were obtained with the ratio DIPC:base mole of nylon of 2:1, a temperature of 110°C, and a time of 2 h.
Assessment of Flammability Hazard and Its Relationship to Price for Women's Nightgowns
Authors: Norton Marjorie J.T. , Johnson Robert F. , Jordan Kenneth A.
Published: March 2007

The flammability hazard and its relationship to price were assessed for 27 styles of women's nightgowns, purchased retail. Though the industry has commonly indicated that higher prices must be paid for safer garments, it was hypothesized that this would not hold among garments for which no mandatory standard beyond CS 191-53 has been imposed. Hazard was measured as the percentage of body area sustaining second degree bum, predicted through burning the nightgowns on a thermally instrumented mannequin. In general, predicted hazard was highest for cotton gowns, followed by ones of polyester/cellulosic and acetate/nylon blends, and lastly by ones of 100% polyester or nylon. Graphical and statistical analysis indicated an inverse but weak relationship between hazard and price, so the conclusion was that little if any necessary relationship exists between flammability hazard and price for the women's nightgowns. An apparent reason was the strong association between hazard and fiber content, but no discernible relationship between price and fiber content.
Hysteresis Effects Associated with the Adsorption and Desorption of Water by Woven Wool Fabrics
Authors: Cookson P.G. , Slota I.J.
Published: March 2007

Changes have been examined in the lengths of four woven wool fabrics on adsorption and desorption of water. The lengths are greater on desorption than on adsorption, a trend that is opposite that previously reported for length differences at a given regain. The magnitudes of the length differences (at constant regain or relative humidity) are determined primarily by the levels of fabric hygral expansion. After extending the conditioning time from 24 hours to up to 14 days at a particular relative humidity, length and regain differences decreased, but the relationships between length and regain for both adsorption and desorption were unaffected. At a given relative humidity following desorption, lengths and regains were greater as the relative humidity from which desorption occurred was increased.
Correcting Fabric Dyeing Rates by Evaluating Contact Points of Yarns
Authors: Sasaki H. , Yanai E. , Araki H.
Published: March 2007

Dyeing rates of a nylon fabric and a yarn removed from that fabric have been investigated. The apparent diffusion coefficient of dye in the yarn and the diffusional boundary layer parameter are estimated on the basis of the diffusional boundary layer model, assuming that yarns in a fabric are circular cylinders. The apparent diffusion coefficient of p-aminoazobenzene in the yarn removed from the fabric is 1.4 times as large as that of the fabric itself. The contact points of yarns in the fabric are evaluated using Kemp's model, and the fabric dyeing rate is corrected. The approximate thickness of the diffusional boundary layer for the fabric is reevaluated using the value of the apparent diffusion coefficient of dye in the yam.
Female‐Headed Households: Impact of Family Structure on Quarterly Expenditures for Clothing
Authors: DeWeese Gail
Published: March 2007

This research analyzes the impact of family structure (female headed without spouse present and two parent) on individual household member expenditures for clothing. Quarterly clothing expenditure data from the 1985 Consumer Expenditure Survey were analyzed via Tobit. Each family type was analyzed separately, and within each subsample, expenditures for women's, girls', boys', and infants' clothing were estimated. For each explanatory variable in the model, significance of expenditure differences between family structures was tested. Magnitudes and significance of effects by family structure differed, and significance of the difference between the values obtained for each family type also varied between explanatory variables. Often thought of as nontraditional, female‐headed households are a fast‐growing segment of our society. Information as to how they differ from traditional two‐parent households in the retail clothing market will contribute to our understanding of these families and help to complete the picture of their expenditure behavior.
Alaskan Direct‐Market Consumers: Perception of Organic Produce
Authors: Swanson R. B. , Lewis C. E.
Published: March 2007

Perception of organic produce among Alaskan direct‐market patrons (N = 417) was examined in a mailed survey. Response rate was 80%. Responsefrequency was tabulated, and relationships were delineated using chi‐square analysis. Healthfulness of the food supply was a concern, despite a perception that quality and healthfulness of thefood supply had improved since 1987. These attributes were also important infresh produce selection. Organic produce preference was related to both environmental and personal‐safety concerns. More than half of these consumers had purchased organic produce within the last year; supermarkets and direct markets were the primary sources. Although organic produce was not purchased exclusively, previous purchase increased the likelihood offuture purchase. A certification process was desired. Half preferred a government certification agent; 28% preferred public and private sector involvement. Information dissemination should address (a) pesticide usefor cosmetic purposes, (b) appearance and food safety, (c) flavor and shipping characteristics, and (d) production method and nutritive content.
Effect of Motion and Headwear on Particle Contamination in Clean Environments
Authors: Brandt Brenda
Published: March 2007

This study examined differences in particle release due to various types of human activity and two types of head covering. The number of particles released from female subjects while clothed in a selected garment and different head and face coverings during five types of movements was statistically analyzed. Results indicated that the complete coverage hood, which enclosed the entire head and face, was more effective in containing particle release from head and face areas at minimal activity levels than was the traditional hood. However, at maximum activity involving arm and body twist movements, both hoods were similar in terms of controlling particle contamination from head and face areas.
The Effect of Three Status Characteristics on Ratings of an Elderly Male and an Elderly Female: Social Variables
Authors: Workman Jane E. , Johnson Kim K. P.
Published: March 2007

The purpose of this study was to determine whether three status characteristics—age, gender, and fashionability—affect impressions of elderly persons. Subjects represented three age statuses: young adults (18–34 years), middle‐aged adults (35–59 years), and elderly adults (60+ years). Each subject saw one of four photographs, either a 75‐year‐old male or a 70‐year‐old female in either fashionable or unfashionable clothing, and gave their first impressions of social class, economic status, sociability, and health. Subjects also drew a stick figure depicting how close they would stand to the person as a measure of social distance. Data were analyzed using MANOVA, ANOVA, and the Student‐Newman‐Keuls test. The independent variables (gender of stimulus person, age status of subjects, and fashionability of clothing) yielded significant effects on ratings of social class, economic status, social distance, sociability, and health. Results are explained in terms of status characteristics theory.
Residential Quality and Satisfaction: Toward Developing Residential Quality Indexes
Authors: Ha Mikyoung , Weber Margaret J.
Published: March 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop a residential quality index and to test its relationship to residential satisfaction. Factors representing 7 dimensions of residential quality were identified as indexes by using principal component factor analysis. Those factors included environmental safety, planning/landscaping, housing policy, sociocultural environment, public services, housing economics, and physical quality of housing. Of the 7 quality dimensions explored, 5 residential quality indexes‐environmental safety, planning/landscaping, housing policy, sociocultural environment, and physical quality of housing‐were indicated as significant factors in residential satisfaction.
Relative Cost of Owning and Using Traditional and Innovative Cooking Appliances
Authors: Young Betty S. , Lovingood Rebecca P. , Goss Rosemary C. , Johnson Janet M. , Barclay Nancy A. , O'Brien Walter F.
Published: March 2007

A matrix was developed to provide a framework to organize information and compare the relative cost in monetary and human resources of owning and using traditional and innovative residential major cooking appliances. Laboratory data collected by the first author and by other university researchers with the same five types of cook tops and a microwave oven were analyzed with ANOVA, Student‐Newman‐Keuls, and Tukey's HDS procedures. Data were then used to complete the matrix comprising monetary and human resource dimensions thought to contribute to the total cost of ownership and use. Each dimension was assigned a weight to represent its level of importance to consumers. Based on the data, appliances were ranked high, medium, or low on each dimension of the matrix, and a total score was developed for each appliance. The microwave oven received the highest score, followed in order by cooktops with conventional gas burners, conventional electric coils, solid elements, and induction elements. Additional work is needed to refine data collection techniques, to expand the data set to include all types of major appliances currently available for surface cooking, and to validate the content and weights of the matrix.
Preprofessionals' Perceptions of Home Economics
Authors: LeBleu Lisa C. , Smith Frances M.
Published: March 2007

The major purpose of this study was to describe undergraduate students' experiences and perceptions of home economics and to work with students to produce a description of those experiences and their relevance to an integrative home economics perspective. Data were gathered through semistructured individual interviews with a purposive sample of 14 seniors in a college of home economics at a large midwestern university. Findings indicated that students' perceptions of home economics ranged from female gender role expectations in early childhood to a currently functioning integrative perspective.
Work Values as Moderators of Perceived Leader Behavior-Satisfaction Relationships
Authors: Brief Arthur P. , Aldag Ramon J.
Published: March 2007

Hypotheses concerning the moderating effects of job involvement and pro-Protestant ethic attitudes on perceived leader behavior-satisfaction relationships were assessed for a sample of production workers (n = 131). Statistically significant moderating effects were not isolated. However, it was noted that job involvement and pro-Protestant ethic attitudes impacted somewhat differently on the perceived leader behavior-satisfaction relationships examined. The relationship between job involvement and pro-Protestant ethic attitudes was discussed.
The Future of Latin America: Between Underdevelopment and Revolution
Authors: Stavenhagen Rodolfo
Published: March 2007

The article below reviews past and present conditions in Latin America and evaluates alternatives to existing structural problems. It is a general overview for the non-specialized reader who may not be deeply familiar with Latin American affairs. It departs substantially from the more focused theoretical discussion elsewhere in this journal. It directly concerns problems, people, and institutions in Latin America, and as such we hope that it will provide useful background for teachers, students, and workers alike. Rodolfo Stavenhagen is Director of the Center for Sociological Studies, Colegio de México. His article is a revised version of a lecture given at the University of Geneva during September 1971. The author wishes to thank Philip Russell for the translation into English.