bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Chest Radiological Findings of Patients With Severe H1N1 Pneumonia Requiring Intensive Care
Authors: Rohani Payam , Jude Cecilia M. , Chan Kelvin , Barot Nikhil , Kamangar Nader
Published: June 2014

Introduction:

A new strain of human influenza A (H1N1) virus originated from Mexico in 2009 and spread to more than 190 countries and territories. The World Health Organization (WHO) declared it a level 6 (highest level) pandemic. In August 2010, WHO announced that the H1N1 2009 influenza virus had moved into the postpandemic period. The WHO also declared that this flu strain is expected to continue to circulate as a seasonal virus “for some years to come.” The objective of this study is to describe the chest radiographic and computed tomography (CT) findings of patients with severe H1N1 pneumonia admitted to the intensive care unit (ICU) during the 2009 pandemic.

Hypothesis:

Patients with severe H1N1 pneumonia requiring ICU admission have extensive radiographic and CT abnormalities.

Methods:

Eighteen patients, aged 23 to 62 (mean 41), admitted to the ICU at UCLA-Olive View Medical Center with a primary diagnosis of pandemic H1N1 infection, confirmed either via rapid influenza detection test or by real-time reverse transcriptase polymerase chain reaction assay, formed the study population. All patients had chest x-ray (CXR) within 24 hours of admission and 5 patients had CT examinations. In this retrospective study, images were evaluated for the pattern (ground-glass opacities, consolidation, reticular opacities, and nodular opacities), distribution (unilateral/bilateral, upper/middle/lower lung zone, and central/peripheral/peribronchovascular), and extent (focal/multifocal/diffuse; number of lung zones) of abnormalities.

Results:

All (100%) patients had abnormal CXR and CT studies. The predominant radiographic findings were ground-glass opacities (16 of 18; 89%), consolidation (16 of 18; 89%), and reticular opacities (6 of 18, 33%). The radiographic abnormalities were bilateral in 17 (94%) patients; involved lower lung distribution in 18 (100%) patients, and mid and lower lung distribution in 16 (89%) patients. Radiographic abnormalities were peribronchovascular in 11 (61%) patients and multifocal in 10 (56%). Sixteen (89%) patients had extensive abnormalities involving 3 or more lung zones. The patients requiring mechanical ventilation had a higher incidence of bilateral, diffuse consolidation in a peribronchovascular distribution on chest radiographs. The predominant CT abnormalities were consolidation (5 of 5; 100%), ground-glass opacities (5 of 5; 100%), and nodular opacities (3 of 5, 60%). The CT findings were peribronchovascular and multifocal in 4 (80%) patients and extensive and bilateral in all (100%) patients.

Conclusions:

Patients with H1N1 pneumonia admitted to the ICU had bilateral, extensive CXR, and CT abnormalities. Consolidations and ground-glass opacities were the most common imaging findings, predominantly affecting mid and lower lung zones. Imaging abnormalities were peribronchovascular and multifocal in a majority of patients.
Beyond Clery Act Statistics
Authors: Gardella Joseph H. , Nichols-Hadeed Corey A. , Mastrocinque Jeanna M. , Stone Jennifer T. , Coates Cynthia A. , Sly Christopher J. , Cerulli Catherine
Published: June 2014

This study examined the relationships among victimization, demographic characteristics, and activity choices in a cross-sectional sample of 479 undergraduate students. In the sample, 74% was female and 65% was Caucasian, with an even distribution of ages ranging from 18 to 22+ years; all participants completed an online survey. Using survey feedback, the study team performed multivariate regression analysis and reported quantity and type of victimization experiences in relation to factors that may contribute to identifying groups at risk for experiencing violence. Findings suggest that gender, grade point average, and membership in student organizations or Greek-letter organizations influence students’ potential for different types of victimization. Furthermore, alcohol use and household income did not have a statistically significant relationship with any victimization types. Finally, rates reported indicate student underreporting and illustrate difficulty implementing the Clery Act. Policy recommendations, future research, and limitations are discussed. With accurate victimization data, resources and services may be more efficiently allocated to meet the needs of students at greater risk for victimization.
Physical Dating Violence, Sexual Violence, and Unwanted Pursuit Victimization
Authors: Edwards Katie M. , Sylaska Kateryna M. , Barry Johanna E. , Moynihan Mary M. , Banyard Victoria L. , Cohn Ellen S. , Walsh Wendy A. , Ward Sally K.
Published: June 2014

The purpose of this study was to estimate the 6-month incidence rates of sexual assault, physical dating violence (DV), and unwanted pursuit (e.g., stalking) victimization among sexual-minority (i.e., individuals with any same-sex sexual experiences) college students with comparison data from non-sexual-minority (i.e., individuals with only heterosexual sexual experiences) college students. Participants ( N = 6,030) were primarily Caucasian (92.7%) and non-sexual-minority (82.3%). Compared with non-sexual-minority students (N-SMS; n = 4,961), sexual-minority students (SMS; n = 1,069) reported significantly higher 6-month incidence rates of physical DV (SMS: 30.3%; N-SMS: 18.5%), sexual assault (SMS: 24.3%; N-SMS: 11.0%), and unwanted pursuit (SMS: 53.1%; N-SMS: 36.0%) victimization. We also explored the moderating role of gender and found that female SMS reported significantly higher rates of physical DV than female N-SMS, whereas male SMS and male N-SMS reported similar rates of physical DV. Gender did not moderate the relationship between sexual-minority status and victimization experiences for either unwanted pursuit or sexual victimization. These findings underscore the alarmingly high rates of interpersonal victimization among SMS and the critical need for research to better understand the explanatory factors that place SMS at increased risk for interpersonal victimization.
Effect of Face-to-Face Interview Versus Computer-Assisted Self-Interview on Disclosure of Intimate Partner Violence Among African American Women in WIC Clinics
Authors: Fincher Danielle , VanderEnde Kristin , Colbert Kia , Houry Debra , Smith L. Shakiyla , Yount Kathryn M.
Published: June 2014

African American women in the United States report intimate partner violence (IPV) more often than the general population of women. Overall, women underreport IPV because of shame, embarrassment, fear of retribution, or low expectation of legal support. African American women may be especially unlikely to report IPV because of poverty, low social support, and past experiences of discrimination. The purpose of this article is to determine the context in which low-income African American women disclose IPV. Consenting African American women receiving Special Supplemental Nutrition Program for Women, Infants, and Children (WIC) services in WIC clinics were randomized to complete an IPV screening (Revised Conflict Tactics Scales–Short Form) via computer-assisted self-interview (CASI) or face-to-face interview (FTFI). Women ( n = 368) reported high rates of lifetime and prior-year verbal (48%, 34%), physical (12%, 7%), sexual (10%, 7%), and any (49%, 36%) IPV, as well as IPV-related injury (13%, 7%). Mode of screening, but not interviewer race, affected disclosure. Women screened via FTFI reported significantly more lifetime and prior-year negotiation (adjusted odds ratio [aOR] = 10.54, 3.97) and more prior-year verbal (aOR = 2.10), sexual (aOR = 4.31), and any (aOR = 2.02) IPV than CASI-screened women. African American women in a WIC setting disclosed IPV more often in face-to-face than computer screening, and race-matching of client and interviewer did not affect disclosure. Findings highlight the potential value of face-to-face screening to identify women at risk of IPV. Programs should weigh the costs and benefits of training staff versus using computer-based technologies to screen for IPV in WIC settings.
Proximity of Clothing to Self: Evolution of a Concept
Authors: Sontag M. Suzanne , Schlater Jean Davis
Published: June 2014

Proximity of clothing to self is a multifaceted concept conceived as the psychological closeness of clothing to self and indicated by the extent to which clothing is (1) perceived as one with the self or as a component of the self, (2) recognized as an aspect of appearance by which the self is established and validated, (3) recognized as a significant symbol of one's identity, mood, or attitude, (4) perceived as an expression of self-regard or self-worth, (5) recognized as an element of an affective response to self-evaluation, or (6) related to body cathexis. Perceptions were obtained by asking 116 wives and 116 husbands to respond to an open-ended question regarding their reasons for feeling as they do about their clothing. A three-point rating scale, the first version o f the Proximity o f Clothing to Self Scale (hereafter cited as PCS Scale) was developed as an indicator o f the concept. Points on the PCS Scale were ordered and described by degree of agreement and explicitness of the perception of the six elements of proximity of clothing to self. Responses possessing one or more o f these six elements were assigned to one o f the three points on the PCS Scale by two trained coders and an arbiter. Intercoder reliability determined by two methods was .90 and .89. On the basis of this scaling procedure, four nominal groups were formed: high PCS women, high PCS men, low PCS women, and low PCS men. Affective evaluation of clothing and affective evaluation of self were separately measured using a seven-point Delighted- Terrible Scale. The correlation between these two variables was substantially higher for those scaled with high proximity of clothing to self than for those scaled with low proximity of clothing to self. This result lends construct validity to the PCS Scale as an indicator of proximity of clothing to self. Recommendations are made for refinement of the concept and the PCS Scale.
Curriculum Movement of Clothing and Textiles Programs from Four-Year to Two-Year Colleges
Authors: Dickerson Kitty G. , Clowes Darrel A.
Published: June 2014

Two-year clothing and textiles programs have increased dramatically in recent years and show many similarities to their counterparts in four-year colleges and universities. Through a survey of two-year institutions, the authors sought to (1) determine the extent to which clothing and textiles programs exist in these institutions, (2) trace and illustrate the four-year college's influence on the curriculum o f the two-year programs in clothing and textiles, and (3) determine if programs developed similarly in the different types of two-year schools.

A summary o f results from 176 participating institutions (66.4 % o f those identified as having clothing and textiles programs) indicated that two-year programs are numerous and are serving large numbers of students. The strong in fluence o f the four-year model for home economics was evidenced in organizational patterns, courses of study, some o f the program goals and employment patterns o f graduates, use of the typical academic year format, inclusion o f general education requirements, and concern for academic credentials o f faculty. Certain aspects of curriculum movement varied within the different types of two-year institutions but, in general, the heritage of four-year programs was evident throughout.

Results have implications for educators in both four-year and two-year programs to initiate cooperative strategies to make the two types o f programs complementary rather than duplicative and/or competitive.
Attire, Physical Appearance, and First Impressions: More Is Less
Authors: Lennon Sharron J. , Miller Franklin G.
Published: June 2014

The present research modeled research on trait descriptive adjectives (Anderson, 1968, 1971, 1974, 1979; Zanna and Hamilton, 1972) and examined the manner in which the impact of a target physical appearance cue changes as a function of the number and type of other identifiable physical appearance cues available. In a procedure similar to that used by Zanna and Hamilton (1972), subjects viewed and rated 16 slides of stimulus persons, each of which varied in physical appearance. The 16 slides were developed from a factorial combination of four specific physical appearance cues identified in terms of deviations from a standard. Three separate experiments were conducted. The physical appearance cues were categorized into two types according to whether they were relevant for social situations or task-related situations. A 25 factorial design was used with repeated measurements on each factor. In accord with the basic theory, it was hypothesized that the impact of a single physical appearance cue will be affected by the presence or absence of other such cues.

An analysis of variance was conducted and results of the statistical analysis supported the hypothesis. The impact of any one cue was found to decrease in the presence of similar cues but was found to increase in the presence of dissimilar cues. These results imply that a given cue will have diminishing impact on first impressions when presented with similar cues but will have an increasing impact on first impressions when presented with dissimilar cues.
Effects of Appropriate and Inappropriate Attire on Attributions of Personal Dispositions
Authors: Workman Jane E.
Published: June 2014

To test the hypothesis that an inappropriately dressed interviewee would receive more extreme and more confident trait ratings than an appropriately dressed interviewee, subjects viewed a videotape of a student being interviewed for a summer job. For one interview, the student wore a suit; for the other interview, the same student wore overalls. For half of the subjects, the interview was described as one for an orientation adviser. For the other half, the interview was described as one for a groundskeeper. In a 2 x 2 design (job interview by clothing), there were two appropriate cells (orientation adviser: suit and groundskeeper: overalls) and two inappropriate cells (orientation adviser: overalls and groundskeeper: suit). After viewing the videotape subjects rated the interviewee on 18 personality traits and indicated their confidence in each rating. Subjects did not differentiate between the appropriately and inappropriately dressed interviewee with regard to extremity of trait ratings. However, subjects did find a reason for the inappropriate attire. The inappropriately dressed interviewee for the groundskeeper job (suit) was judged as having less choice in deciding what to wear. The inappropriately dressed interviewee for the orientation adviser job (overalls) was judged as less interested in being hired and with less confidence. When dressed in a suit (regardless of job interview), the interviewee received more positive ratings on several personality traits than when dressed in overalls.
Toward an Operational Definition of Dress
Authors: Buckley Hilda Mayer
Published: June 2014

This research provided an empirically derived operational definition of dress which may be useful to scientists in the field of textiles and clothing. Viewing dress as a superordinate level category, basic and subordinate level categories of dress were sought using hierarchical cluster analytic techniques. In a controlled laboratory setting one hundred male and female subjects sorted 106 sketches of women's dress into piles based on the similarity of one form to all others in the stimulus set. The resulting structural arrangement of the stimuli was then studied and it was found that a taxonomic arrangement of dress emerged. Three basic groupings of dress emerged which were mutually exclusive and exhaustive : Special occasion, bifurcated, and skirted dress. Within each group subordinate subsets emerged; qualitative analyses of the features of these forms of dress as they relate to those in other groupings were presented. Analysis of the categories at the basic and subordinate levels suggests that subjects' cognitive process may have been based upon classification of contextual features as well as the structural features of dress. The distinctive features that distinguish the groupings of dress from one another may serve as a basis for an operational definition of dress for future research. Suggestions for future exploration of dimensions of dress, which can still further clarify the construct of dress were made.
Sex, Gender Identity, and Behavior Concerning Sex-related Clothing
Authors: Davis Leslie L.
Published: June 2014

An individual's sex and the psychological concept of gender identity (masculinity and femininity) were used to predict the wearing of stereotypic sex-related clothing. Subjects consisted of 174 male and female students who completed the Bem Sex Role Inventory (Bem, 1974) and a Sex-related Clothing Inventory. The inventory tapped the extent to which the subjects wore stereotypic male-specific, female-specific, masculine, feminine, and neutral clothing. Sex per se was found to be a better predictor of behavior concerning sex-related clothing than gender identity. The males in the study were more likely than the females to wear male-specific and masculine clothing, and the females were more likely than the males to wear female-specific and feminine clothing. The study extends clothing research by relating the personality trait of gender identity to the overt behavior of wearing particular types of clothing. Implications for the predictive utility of the Bem Sex Role Inventory are also discussed.
An Eighteenth-Century American Tailor: Myth and Reality, as Seen Through One Tailor's Surviving Records
Authors: Trautman Patricia
Published: June 2014

One eighteenth-century American tailor's papers are analyzed to test a stereotype of a pre- Revolutionary personal clothier. This stereotype includes drafting technology based on measuring tape and models, while simultaneously assuming skills learned through apprenticeship, and a low socio-economic position for the tailor craftsman. In fact, Edward Marrett's (1713-1780) records did not completely support this stereotype regarding technology or socio-economic position. While not supporting the concept of tailoring education through apprenticeship the records did depict American tailoring as different from 18th c. European as portrayed in lithographs. The records further point to a higher social position than expected, suggesting tailors were not socio-economically stratified. Lastly, the evidence indicates at least American 18th c. tailors may have already made the transition to the dual methods of cutting-direct drafting and using blocks-thought to be a nineteenth-century development.
Dress as a Cultural Sub-system: A Unifying Metatheory for Clothing and Textiles
Authors: Hamilton Jean A.
Published: June 2014

Dress as a cultural sub-system, based on technological, social structural, and ideological components, is proposed as a unifying metatheory for the academic discipline of clothing and textiles. This culturally based model, intended as a paradigm in which both new and existing psychological, sociological, economic, and other theories operate, is holistic since it incorporates the individual, the group, and the cultural system as critical units of analysis in an understanding of the pan-human phenomenon of dress. As a cultural sub-system, dress is a dynamic, interacting system, unbounded by time and space, that articulates directly with the larger cultural system in which dress operates. This metatheory unifies the breadth of concerns in clothing and textiles and clarifies the symbiotic relationship of the sub-fields to one another. It also provides a framework for a more critical review of implications of the discipline's theoretical and applied value.
Consumer Use of Label Information In Ratings of Clothing Quality and Clothing Fashionability
Authors: Davis Leslie L.
Published: June 2014

In two simulated "shopping" tasks college female subjects rated four white blouses on quality and fashionability. Subjects obtained information needed to make these ratings from an information display board. Content analysis of the information selected indicated that subjects disregarded about half the available information when making the ratings. Style and price were the most sought pieces of information. The 100% cotton designer label blouse was rated higher in quality and fashionability than the other blouses, although the blouses were consistent across construction quality and styling. The use of the behavioral process technique for investigating pre-purchase information search behavior for clothing is discussed.
Improving the Appearance of Direct-Dyed Cotton Fabric with Neps through Sodium Hydroxide Pretreatments
Authors: Cheek Lenore , Wilcock Anne , Hsu Li-Hua
Published: June 2014

The effect of two sodium hydroxide pretreatments, mercerization (20% NaOH) and submercerization (14% NaOH), on the visual coverage ofneps in cotton fabric dyed with five direct dyes was examined. It was shown that direct dyes vary in their ability to achieve visual coverage ofneps in untreated cottonfabric. Treatment with either 14% or 20% NaOH before dyeing results in increased depth of shade. However, increases are greater after mercerization. There is no significant difference between mercerization and submercerization in promoting coverage of visible neps after dyeing with any of the five dyes examined. Evaluation of changes in fabric properties as a function of each treatment showed that both resulted in significant increases in fabric tensile strength and elongation as a result of fabric compaction. Effects of 20% NaOH were significantly higher than those of 14% NaOH. In addition, after mercerization, tear strength and flex abrasion were also improved.
The Textile Sector as a Special GATT Case
Authors: Dickerson Kitty G.
Published: June 2014

Textile trade policy is presented in the context of general trade policy under the international umbrella for trade, the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT). Textile trade policies that exist under the GATT represent a dramatic departurefrom the normal rules developed to coordinate trade in all other sectors. Moreover, textile trade has a long history of participating in world trade with its own set of rules. Since 1961, textile and apparel trade has had its own structures and rules that have existed alongside the rules of the General Agreement. This paper, which has resultedfrom research of both primary and secondary sources on textile trade policy at the global level, traces the development of specialpolicies and structures to manage trade in this sector. Further discussion considers how and why the textile sector is treated as a unique case in global trade. Varying views are presented on whether textiles should continue to receive special treatment or whether this sector should be returned to normal GATT rules applicable to all other sectors.
Effects of Situational and Individual Influences on the Selection of Daily Clothing
Authors: Kwon Yoon-Hee
Published: June 2014

This study examined the daily clothing selection from the perspective of consumer decision process by (1) testing the actual existence ofexogenous and endogenous dimensions of situational influence and clothing orientation of individual influence affecting the selection of daily clothing using factor analysis; (2) testing the hypothesis that, in the case of daily clothing selection, situational influence is mostly exogenous in nature; and (3) pilot testing the situational and individual influences on three different female populations of college, professional, and suburban/nonworking women.

Three different female populations which consisted of 385 college women, 62 professional women, and 65 suburban/nonworking women were surveyed to determine the difference in emphasis placed on situational and individual influences. The result of the principal axis factor analysis indicated that the situational influences which affect one's selection of daily clothing are mostly exogenous in nature. The exogenous factor of situational influence possessed the highestfactor loadings and greatest numberof variables. Research also indicated that the endogenous clothing variables measured the self-enhancement aspect of human behavior related to clothing. Results of analysis of variance and the Scheffe' test suggested that the three groups of women differed in the degree of influence they received from three factors. The exogenous factor of situational influence and clothing orientation of individual influence affected the studentgroup the most for the selection ofdaily clothing while the endogenous factor influenced the suburban group the most.
Categorization of Forms of Dress
Authors: DeLong Marilyn Revell , Minshall Bettie C.
Published: June 2014

Similarities in the criteria for collective response patterns were examined, based upon the way respondents categorized ensembles of apparel. Ensembles of daywear, a basic category offemale dress, were selected to vary in a number of dimensions. The purpose was to determine how 52 female respondents, similar in age and occupation, would group apparel in four categorization tasks. Responses were examined to determine which dimensions were used within the daywear category at the subordinate level. Dominant criteria used by respondents in forming categories at this level were the character of the silhouette and internal shape, thepart-to-whole relation, and associated meanings. Responses indicated that the categorizing task was based more upon the form dimensions than on individual preferences.
The Impact of Technology on Apparel Designer Training
Authors: Sheldon Gwendolyn J.
Published: June 2014

The current and projected use of computerized design and production equipment in the apparel industry was assessed by surveying designers working for apparel manufacturers. The purpose was to determine if there is an accelerated acceptance of technology and what the implications are for apparel design education given changes in the industry. Comparisons were made between different sized companies (based on gross annual sales) and between companies producing different types of clothing. Designers were asked for recommendations on coursework and needed exposure to computerized equipment in designer training. Results show greatly increased use and projected use of computerized equipment particularly for design and pattern making equipment. Specifically, larger companies utilize computers across many different tasks while smallerfirms specializing in women's clothing are less likely to use computerized equipment.
Probate Documents: American Costume History Research
Authors: Trautman Pat , Bartsch Donna
Published: June 2014

County court probate documents can provide us with descriptions of costume and textiles for periods of our national heritage for which we have few or no extant artifacts. In addition to their descriptive value, the records are probably best suited as an aid in discerning trends over time. When teamed with other documents of the period, such as tax lists or church records, they allow apparel and textiles to be placed within their socio-economic context. The authors introduce probate documents-wills, inventories, and accounts of administration-as a potentially rich source for research in American costume history. Each type of document is discussed and analyzed for its textile content, using examples from seventeenth and eighteenth century Massachusetts.
Influence of Dress on Perception of Intelligence and Scholastic Achievement in Urban Schools with Minority Populations
Authors: Behling Dorothy
Published: June 2014

Photographs of five clothing styles were manipulated in this investigation of perceived behavior, academic potential and intelligence of high school students. Teacher and student subjects from three urban secondary schools with 97%, 56% and 30% minority enrollments participated in the study. A repeated measures analysis of variance as well as a post hoc test were used for data analyses. Independent variables were clothing styles, sex of the model, school and race. Dependent variables were perception of intelligence, scholastic ability and school related behavior. Student and teacher subjects perceived differences in behavior, academic potential and intelligence of the models based on clothing worn. Differences for behavior and academic potential were significant for clothing style and sex of the model. There were significant interactions for academic potential by sex of the model and style, for school and style, as well as for style, school and race.
Wettability of Nonwoven Fabrics: Effect of Laundering on Water Absorption
Authors: Young Ah Kwon  , Majid Sarmadi A.
Published: June 2014

The effects of laundering on the wetting properties of nonwoven fabrics have been investigated. Fabric specimens were laundered (washed and dried) 1, 5 and 10 times with steel balls as an agitation source. Most fabrics laundered 5 times showed an increase in water absorption; however, water absorption decreased in the fabrics after 10 launderings. Laundering 5 times influenced the water absorption of regular Tyvek® and unfinished SMS fabrics. The fluorochemical (FC) finished Sontara® and unfinished SMS fabrics showed a slight; increase in water penetration after all levels of laundering; however, the level of laundering did not significantly change the rate of water uptake in the FC finished SMS fabrics. The corona treated Tyvek® exhibited a decrease in water absorption after 5 and 10 launderings. At the maximum number (10) of laundering cycles, the corona treated Tyvek® exhibited the least amount of water uptake among the nonwoven fabrics evaluated in this study. The fiber contact angle and the fabric pore radius, obtained by the Wilhelmy technique, were used for the estimation of the capillary flow rates (based on the Washburn equation). The expected capillary flow rates were plotted against the experimental values of the spontaneous uptake rate from the demand wettability test and from the static absorption test. The results correlated well with the Washburn model. Before laundering, all experimental data were highly correlated with the expected capillary , flow data, such that the relative wettability could be predicted by the Washburn equation. After 5 launderings, the maximum water uptake and the rates of water uptake were not as well correlated with the theoretical capillary flow rates based on the Washburn equation.
Environmentalism and Consumers' Clothing Disposal Patterns: An Exploratory Study
Authors: Shim Soyeon
Published: June 2014

This exploratory study examined (a) the influence of consumers' general environmental attitude and waste recycling behavior on their clothing disposal patterns; and (b) the influence of gender, age, and ethnicity on clothing disposal patterns, environmental attitude, and waste recycling behavior. Data (N = 468) were collected from undergraduates in a large-sized Southwestern university. Based on focus group interviews and a pilot test, eight a priori patterns of clothing disposition were identified: (a) Economically Motivated Resale, (b) Environmentally Motivated Resale, (c) Charity Motivated Donation, (d) Environmentally Motivated Donation, (e) Economically Motivated Reuse, (f) Environmentally Motivated Reuse, (g) Convenience-Oriented Discarding, and (i) Unawareness-Based Discarding. In addition to Cronbach's alpha coefficients, validities and reliabilities for these eight constructs were examined using the LISREL analysis. Relationships between independent variables (environmental attitude and waste recycling behavior) and dependent variables (eight clothing disposal patterns) were tested by using the structural equation model of the LISREL analysis. It was found that environmental attitude had a stronger influence on several environmentally oriented clothing disposal patterns than did waste recycling behavior. One-way analysis of variance indicated that gender, age, and ethnicity selectively predicted environmental attitude, waste recycling behavior, and clothing disposal patterns. For instance, the female student and the older student were more likely to choose environmentally oriented disposal methods than were their counterparts. White students had a slightly stronger attitude toward the environment than did non-white students but were not different in clothing disposal patterns. Suggestions for future studies are discussed.
"Look for the Label"- The International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union Label Campaign, 1959-1975
Authors: Ulrich Pamela V.
Published: June 2014

In 1958, the ILGWU and New York dress manufacturers signed an historic contract which mandated the manufacturers' insertion of the union's label and the union's sponsorship of a two million dollar campaign to promote labeled products. Between 1959 and 1975, the ILGWU used multiple media to promote its label, focusing on television advertising after that period. This study determined the rationale for ILGWU's promotional targeting of retailers and consumers between 1959 and 1975, as well as messages designed for these audiences and means used to reach them. Primary sources used included materials in ILGWU Archives, union documents, and contemporary periodicals. The union advertised in local newspapers, consumer magazines and Women's Wear Daily, and produced and distributed booklets, films and varied press aids about apparel. Two themes dominated the campaign: (a) the ILGWU's contributions to American society and (b) the excitement of American fashion.
Consumers' Conceptualization of Apparel Attributes
Authors: Abraham-Murali Liza , Littrell Mary Ann
Published: June 2014

The purpose of this research was to a) generate a composite list of apparel attributes, b) arrange the attributes in conceptual categories and dimensional levels, and c) examine the attributes in ways that are useful to different types of retailers. Five focus group interviews were conducted with 31 female consumers in four midwestern towns. The focus groups were designed in a three part format to parallel some of the evaluation processes in different types of retail settings. Four conceptual themes and 79 attributes emerged based on the content of the data. The themes were physical appearance, physical performance, expressive, and extrinsic. Themes varied in the unidimensional and multidimensional nature of their attributes. Saliency of the attributes varied in the three parts of discussion which has implications for different types of retailers. Participants were concerned about physical appearance and expressive response when viewing catalog photographs and narrative copy. Concern heightened for physical appearance and diminished for expressive attributes when actual garments were examined. Recommendations and hypotheses for future research are provided.
Giving Gifts of Clothing: Risk Perceptions of Husbands and Wives
Authors: Horne Lena , Winakor Geitel
Published: June 2014

This research examines the importance husbands and wives place on various types of perceived risk when giving a sweatshirt or pants to spouse, sons, and daughters. Seventeen affective items representing perceived risks were repeated for the two garments and three recipients. A total of 103 husband-wife couples from a midwestern city responded independently to questionnaires by using an 11-point certainty scale. Data were analyzed by correlation, plotting, and analyses of variance. Wives purchased more clothing gifts than husbands did. Wives accorded importance to risks related to use of resources; husbands accorded importance to risks related to how recipients evaluate them. Givers thought that certain types of risk were important regardless of the child's gender; givers also thought that risks related to recipient's self-esteem, store image, and surprise were important when giving to females. Pants were more risky gifts than sweatshirts, but type of garment interacted with recipient and giver to reduce or amplify the importance of some risks. Further research is needed to clarify various types of perceived risk in gift giving. Marketing implications are suggested
Hmong American New Year Rituals : Generational Bonds through Dress
Authors: Lynch Annette , Detzner Daniel F. , Eicher Joanne B.
Published: June 2014

Within performed ritual, Hmong Americans use dress as a medium to express a vision of cultural life responsive to both their cultural past and their new American context. This article is a part of a larger research project focused on the role of dress in the formulation of Hmong American cultural life. This paper focuses on how dress is used within two different New Year performances to make sense of the position of the Hmong in America. Public and private Hmong American New Year rituals are arenas wherein dress is used to express the struggle for reconciliation between the older and younger generations, the old and new ways, and Hmong and American cultures. Separate and differently focused New Year celebrations formally acknowledge the valued roles of Hmong elders as links to the Hmong past and Hmong youth as links to an American future. Both celebrations incorporate a recognition of the core problem of reconciling Hmong and American cultures. Both use dress to give voice to the young and the old as they struggle for cultural definition in the United States.
Effects of Fabric Skewness on the Drape of Four-Gore Skirts
Authors: Moore Carolyn L. , Gurel Lois M. , Lentner Marvin
Published: June 2014

Skewness in woven fabric results when filling yarns are displaced from a line perpendicular to warp yarns. Effects of skewness on drape of four-gore skirts, the level at which skewness becomes excessive, and the relationship of shear hysteresis to skewness were investigated Skirts were made from fabric a manufacturer supplied with near zero skewness and with four varying levels of induced skewness. The drape profile of skirts, worn by a manikin suspended from the ceiling, was photographed. Plexiglass, with quadrant lines and two holes for the manikin legs, was positioned at the bottom of the skirt. Slides were projected onto a viewing screen interfaced to a digitizer and computer. Digitized data included area of the profile, distance from the apex of nodes to the intersection of the quadrant lines, distance between apexes of adjacent nodes, and area of asymmetry between the right and left sides. Differences were significant for distance between apexes of adjacent nodes and for asymmetry. All skewness levels were excessive for distance between adjacent nodes and 4.4% for asymmetry. Linearity was significant for both variables. Pearson's correlation between shear recovery in the filling direction and the levels of skewness was -0.8527.
Personal Values and Dress: The Spranger, Hartmann, AVL Paradigm in Research and Pedagogy
Authors: Morgado Marcia A.
Published: June 2014

The study of personal values is a discrete research field, historically characterized by controversy over the nature of the subject matter and the design of instruments to measure values. Between 1933 and 1980, scholars concerned with relationships between personal values and dress reported outcomes of research based on a common model of personal values. The model, which includes a theoretical framework suggested by Eduard Spranger, a series of research hypotheses contributed by George W. Hartmann, and a related instrument designed to measure personal values, the A VL Study of Values, has become paradigmatic in clothing and textiles pedagogy. It suggests that direct, common-sense relationships occur between personal values and their expression in interests, attitudes, and behaviors in dress. A review of issues in the field of values study provides the context for an examination of components of the model. A review of research outcomes antithetical to the logic of the model is used to support the argument that the value of the model lies in its illustration of the difficulties that characterize values research, rather than in its ability to describe or predict relationships between personal values and dress. Scholars are asked to reassess the usefulness of the Spranger, Hartmann, A VL model for research and pedagogy.
Consumers' Perceptions of Apparel Quality Over Time: An Exploratory Study
Authors: Abraham-Murali Liza , Littrell Mary Ann
Published: June 2014

The purpose of this research on apparel quality was to 1) identify conceptual dimensions among a large set of apparel attributes at expectation and post-purchase evaluation stages and 2) ascertain how these conceptual dimensions and other variables, such as patronage benefits, demographics, and years of experience shopping with an apparel company, explained variance in perceptions of overall quality at the two evaluation stages. Three hundred consumers who had placed orders for one of three dresses from Lands' End, Inc. formed the sample for the mailed questionnaires. Consumers' perceptions of 61 attributes of the dress were measured at the time of purchase and after six weeks of use. At the expectation stage regression analysis revealed that overall perceived quality was predicted by Fabric and Garment Construction; Care, Value, and Style; Product and Services; and community of residence. At the post-purchase evaluation stage, Care; Product and Services; and Selection factors were useful in predicting overall perceived quality. A model is proposed that can serve to formulate hypotheses for further studies on consumer evaluation of apparel.
Assessment of Textiles and Clothing Academic Programs in the United States
Authors: Laughlin Joan , Kean Rita C.
Published: June 2014

This study provides information to academic units about textiles and clothing programs in higher education, and will serve faculty reshaping the academic future of programs With baseline information, academic units could use comparison data during strategic management processes. Administrators of academic units with four-year textiles and clothing programs were mailed a questionnaire soliciting characteristics of the unit and the faculty, curricular elements currently included in the program, competencies and future directions. Questionnaires from 143 units (78% return) met the inclusion criterion of an academic major in textiles and clothing. Over 77% of the 16,000 undergraduate students majored in RetailinglMerchandising; 13% were Fashion/Apparel Design majors and only 9% were Textiles, Apparel, Clothing, General majors. Seven curricular elements were identified as common in textiles and clothing programs: Beginning Textiles, Color and Design Principles, Socio-psychological Aspects of Clothing, History of Clothing, Cultural Aspects of Dress, Merchandise Operations and Fashion Theory. As undergraduate enrollment increases, the number of curricular elements in programs increase. A critical mass of students, and resources that accompany student numbers, may determine breadth of offerings. Presence or absence of a graduate program influences undergraduate curriculum. Increased numbers of faculty contribute to expectations relative to student outcomes. Respondents indicated significant additions to curricular elements in the future, even when considering the probability of decreased resources.
Anasazi Sandals of Tseyi-Hatsosi Canyon, Arizona: Attributes and Cultural Context
Authors: Deegan Ann Cordy
Published: June 2014

Twenty-four Anasazi sandals, from Tseyi-Hatsosi Canyon, northeastern Arizona, were analyzed using the Sibley and Jakes model (1989) for inferring cultural context from archaeological textiles. These sandals were analyzed for yarn structures, silhouettes, fabric constructions, colors, motifs, and tie systems. The sandals contain: yucca fiber Z-spun into plied, S-twist yarns; scalloped-toe and puckered heel silhouettes; twined fabric in complex geometric patterns; and toe-heel tie systems. Sibley and Jakes' model advanced understanding of Anasazi sandals beyond the basic function of sandals as footwear. Division of labor and prestige value are indicated by sandal complexity and time, practice, and skill required in manufacture. Application of the Sibley and Jakes model revealed that assessment was limited, with unprovenienced sandals, in areas of 1) identification of construction tools and special manufacturing sites, 2) understanding of symbolic function, and 3) anticipation of possible color or fiber changes to avoid interpretation errors.
Profiling Adolescent Consumer Decision-Making Styles: Effects of Socialization Agents and Social-Structural Variables
Authors: Shim Soyeon , Koh Aeran
Published: June 2014

This study examined adolescent consumer decision-making styles from the perspective of consumer socialization. Adolescent consumers (n = 1,954) from 29 high schools in a southwestern state returned usable survey questionnaires. As a result of cluster analysis and multivariate analysis of variance, three groups of consumers were identified and labeled as Value-Maximizing Recreational Shoppers, Brand-Maximizing Non-Utilitarian Shoppers, and Apathetic Shoppers. These three groups were subsequently compared as to the effects of socialization agents and social structural variables. Multivariate analysis of covariance indicated that Value-Maximizing Recreational Shoppers were most associated with interaction with parents, exposure to printed media, and consumer education. Brand-Maximizing Non-Utilitarian Shoppers were closely related to peer influence and television commercials. Apathetic Shoppers had the least amount of association with all socialization agents. Social structural variables such as gender, ethnicity, and job status were also different among all three groups. Theoretical, managerial, and educational implications are provided based on the results.
Toward a National Model of an Electronic Decision Support System for Domestic Sourcing of Textiles and Apparel
Authors: Anderson Lenda Jo , Warfield Carol , Barry Mary , Emery Chuck
Published: June 2014

This purpose of this research was to develop a model of an electronic decision support system to aid apparel product developers in sourcing domestic textile and apparel production. Database design occurred in a sequential manner based on an adaptation of a conceptual model proposed by Storey. In-depth interviews with sourcing executives from six major retailers, data collection with over 500 producers, and usability testing of two prototypes with seventeen apparel product developers from two major specialty retailers provided the functional foundation for database development. A network of researchers from universities, National Labs and [TC]2, producers, and retailers contributed to laying the infrastructure to move the model toward implementation of a national sourcing database for the textile and apparel industry.
The Effects of Environmental Attitudes on Apparel Purchasing Behavior
Authors: Butler Sara M. , Francis Sally
Published: June 2014

Although consumers' environmental concern has increased, little empirical research regarding environmental attitudes and clothing purchasing behavior has been reported. This study builds on the limited amount of research by employing a theoretical framework that focuses on endogenous and exogenous conditions that affect attitudes and behavior.

The final sample of 402 women resulted from a national random sample of 1000. A survey measuring general environmental and clothing environmental attitudes, and environmental consideration when making clothing purchases was developed.

Factor analysis reduced the attitude items to three general environmental factors and two clothing environmental factors. Path analysis was employed to examine the relationships among variables. Results revealed that demographic characteristics influenced general environmental attitudes which in turn influenced clothing environmental attitudes which ultimately impacts clothing purchasing behavior. Results further explicated the existing theoretical framework and provided support for a sequential approach.