bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
EFFECTS OF COASTAL VEGETATION SPECIES AND GROUND SLOPE ON STORM SURGE DISASTER MITIGATION
Authors: Das Shamal Chandra , Iimura Kosuke , Tanaka Norio
Published: October 2012

The coastline of Bangladesh is mostly exposed to extreme meteorological and hydrological conditions where cyclones and storm surges cause devastating effects including loss of human lives and destruction of properties. Coastal vegetation has been considered as a low-cost and natural protection to reduce the energy of current and surge. Present study explored the effectiveness of coastal vegetation against cyclonic storm surge based on species composition, forest width and near-shore run-up slope revealed by field investigations and numerical simulations. A calibrated hydrodynamic numerical model based on modified one-dimensional depth-averaged non-linear long wave differential equations was used to simulate the storm surge mitigation effected by the coastal vegetation. Considering two different types of coastal species, mangrove species, Rhizophora apiculata and beach species, Casuarina equisetifolia, numerical simulations were conducted to assess the effect of coastal forest on the storm surge mitigation. This analysis showed that double layers of wide vegetation belt (300 m) in the vertical direction with R. apiculata and C. equisetifolia on mild slope (1:500) exhibited a strong potential to decrease surge wave height and velocity. However, water depth reduction was low compared with flow velocity reduction. The maximum water depth and current velocity reduced to 1.4m (22% reduction) and 1.2m/s (49% reduction), respectively, behind the vegetation in comparison with the case without vegetation. Wide coastal vegetation belt with mild slope might be suitable for storm surge energy reduction; however, a doubling or tripling of forest width (from 100 m to 200 m or 300 m) did not produce two-fold or three-fold increase of wave reduction with negligible additional velocity reduction. For the same vegetation density the wave energy reduction by R. apiculata was not increased significantly compared to the C. equisetifolia. But young densely C. equisetifolia found more effective to reduce storm surge energy. The information would be of value to policy and decision makers for coastal landscape planning, rehabilitation and coastal resource management.
IMPROVED ESTIMATES OF MEAN SEA LEVEL CHANGES IN THE SOUTH-EASTERN NORTH SEA SINCE 1843
Authors: Jensen Juergen , Wahl Thomas , Frank Torsten
Published: October 2012

This contribution focuses on presenting the results from analysing mean sea level changes in the German Bight, the south-eastern part of the North Sea. Data sets from 13 tide gauges covering the entire German North Sea coastline and the period from 1843 to 2008 have been used to estimate high quality mean sea level time series. The overall results from nonlinear smoothing and linear trend estimations for different time spans are presented. Time series from single tide gauges are analysed as well as different 'virtual station' time series. An accelerated sea level rise in the German Bight is detected for a period at the end of the 19th century and for another one covering the last decades. In addition, different patterns of sea level change are found in the German Bight compared to global patterns, highlighting the urgent need to derive reliable regional sea level projections to be considered in coastal planning strategies.
INFLUENCE OF STOKES DRIFT ON SALT WEDGE INTRUSION EVALUATED USING FULLY-NONLINEAR AND STRONGLY-DISPERSIVE WAVE EQUATIONS
Authors: Nakayama Keisuke , Shintani Tetsuya , Kakinuma Taro , Maruya Yasuyuki , Yonome Yoshinori , Yonemoto Mitsuaki , Nakauchi Isao
Published: October 2012

This paper describes the influence of surface waves on salt-wedge intrusion in terms of radiation stress. Radiation stress may increase salt-wedge intrusion when surface waves propagate up a river. This study thus aims to reveal the effect of radiation stress on the distance of salt-wedge intrusion by using fully nonlinear strongly dispersive internal wave equations and three-dimensional numerical computation model, Fantom3D. Fully nonlinear strongly dispersive internal wave model reveals the possibility that large radiation stress is induced near the river mouth and increases the distance of salt-wedge intrusion. Three-dimensional numerical model also demonstrates that there is a significant difference in the intrusion distance by taking into account radiation stress.
NEAR-BOTTOM FLOW CHARACTERISTICS OF CURRENTS AT ARBITRARY ANGLE TO 2D RIPPLES
Authors: Madsen Ole Secher , Negara Arlendenovega Satria , Lim Kian Yew , Cheong Hin Fatt
Published: October 2012

Experimental results for near-bottom current velocity profiles for flows over artificial, definitely 2D ripples made of 1.5 cm high aluminum angle-profile spaced at 10 cm intervals are obtained for the following cases: (i) current alone perpendicular to ripples; (ii) current alone parallel to ripples; (iii) combined orthogonal wave-current flows for current parallel to ripples; and (iv) current alone at an angle of 30° to the ripple axis. The velocity profiles are analyzed by the log-profile method, and show the roughness experienced by the current to increase as the angle between ripple and current direction increases, i.e. demonstrating convincingly the reality of the concept of a direction-dependent roughness for flows over a 2D rippled bottom. Roughness experienced by the velocity component perpendicular to the ripples is, however, found to be independent of the direction of the mainstream flow relative to that of the ripples, and the different roughness experienced by the perpendicular and parallel velocity components gives rise to a turning of the current velocity vector to become increasingly aligned with the ripple crests as the bottom is approached from above. Implications of this feature, in terms of net sediment transport direction in combined wave-current flows in inner-shelf coastal waters, is discussed.
AN IDEALIZED MODEL OF TIDAL DYNAMICS IN SEMI-ENCLOSED BASINS: THE EFFECTS OF A MEGA-SCALE SAND EXTRACTION TRENCH IN THE NORTH SEA
Authors: De Boer Wiebe P , Roos Pieter C , Hulscher Suzanne J M H , Stolk Ad
Published: October 2012

We investigate the effects of a mega-scale sand extraction trench (length ~200 km, width ~10 km, depth ~10 m, located in front of the Dutch coast) on tidal dynamics in the Southern North Sea. To this end, an idealized modeling approach is adopted, extending the classical problem of Kelvin wave reflection in rectangular semi-enclosed basins to account for lateral depth variations and the presence of a trench. The model results indicate changes in tidal range (zones of decrease and increase of the order of several cm), phase and currents (order cm/s) throughout the whole basin, which emphasizes the importance of a model domain on the scale of the basin. The changes in currents may structurally change sediment transport rates by several percents, which is relevant to coastal morphology. It is argued that this idealized model can be used to support a companion study carried out with a more detailed numerical engineering model. This is because of its ability to (1) provide insight into the physical mechanisms, (2) reveal the order of magnitude and area of influence of the effects and (3) allow for a quick sensitivity analysis with respect to trench geometry.
MONTHLY VARIATION OF WAVE SET-UP HEIGHT IN THE YONESHIRO RIVER MOUTH
Authors: Tanaka Hitoshi , Nakura Hanako , Nguyen Xuan Tinh
Published: October 2012

It is known that in the coastal area facing the Sea of Japan, winter storm is very severe due to strong wind from Siberia and the wave height attains to 6-7m during this period. Hence water level rise in a river entrance due to wave set-up may exceed 1m, which is considerably higher than average tidal amplitude in this region, 0.2-0.5m. However, due to much influence of complicated geographical processes on wave set-up height in a river mouth, quantitative investigations have hardly been done until now. In addition, the water level in a river mouth is complicatedly interacted among tidal motion, river discharge, ocean waves and so on, and hence it is difficult to make highly precise estimation. In this study, water level rise in the mouth of the Yoneshiro River in Akita Prefecture, Japan is investigated. Geographical features of the river mouth are greatly dependent on seasonal variation of major physical forces. Therefore, the characteristic of wave set-up is assumed to be different according to the season, and hence monthly variation of wave set-up is quantified. It is found in winter, the water level rise by wave set-up becomes approximately 10% of the deep water wave height, whereas this ratio decreases rapidly in summer due to flushing of sediment around the river mouth caused by frequent occurrence of floods.
RIP CURRENT OBSERVATION WITH X-BAND RADAR
Authors: Takewaka Satoshi , Yamakawa Taishi
Published: October 2012

X-band radar measurements were conducted at the research pier HORS, of the Port and Airport Research Institute, located in Hasaki, Japan. Ensembles of original radar images over 17 minutes were processed to time-averaged radar images every hour, which were analyzed to estimate the intertidal morphology and occurrence of rip currents. Several streaks extending in the cross shore direction appear in the averaged images which resemble to a neck and head of a rip current captured often in aerial photos or video imageries. The natures of these characteristic patterns in the time-averaged image are investigated through comparisons between optical images, floater release experiment and statistic analyses on sea conditions.
WAVE RUN UP ON NATURAL BEACHES
Authors: Mather Andrew Alan , Stretch Derek , Garland Gerald
Published: October 2012

Wave run up is important for quantifying risks to infrastructure in the coastal zone. The performance of global wave run up models are assessed by applying them to two significant storms along the South African coastline in 2007 and 2008. The models produced mixed results and therefore the development of a new wave run up model was undertaken. This model uses the distance offshore to a point on the bathymetric profile, located approximately at the cut off depth, as a proxy for the underwater beach profile. This new wave run up model has been calibrated for open coastlines as well as large and small embayments. The new model outperforms most of the current wave run up models and gives a good first order approximation of wave run up on natural beaches.
REGULAR PERIODIC WAVE RUNUP AND OVERTOPPING SIMULATIONS BY LAGRANGIAN BLOCKS
Authors: Tan Lai Wai , Chu Vincent H.
Published: October 2012

Wave runup and overtopping of truncated beaches have been simulated using the method of Lagrangian Block Hydrodynamics (LBH). Instead of interpolation, which causes numerical oscillations, the fluxes through the face of the finite-volume in the LBH method are determined by the advection of the blocks. Negative water depth is not possible and the computation is unconditionally stable as the momentum is updated by the re-construction of the blocks. The accuracy of the method is evaluated using (i) the exact solution of the collapsing bore and (ii) the available laboratory data of the solitary waves as the benchmarks. The numerical simulations carried out for regular periodic waves cover a wide range of wave steepness and beach slopes taking advantage of the inherent shock-capturing and shoreline-tracking capabilities of the LBH method.
QUASI-3D MODELLING OF SURF ZONE DYNAMICS
Authors: Luijendijk Arjen , Henrotte Johan , Walstra Dirk Jan , Van Ormondt Maarten
Published: October 2012

A quasi-three-dimensional model (quasi-3D) has been developed through the implementation of an analytical 1DV flow model in existing depth-averaged shallow water equations. The model includes the effects of waves and wind on the vertical distribution of the horizontal velocities. Comparisons with data from both physical and field cases show that the quasi-3D approach is able to combine the effect of vertical structures with the efficiency of depth-averaged simulations.
Inter-comparisons with three-dimensional simulations show that the quasi-3D approach can represent similar velocity profiles in the surf zone. Quasi-3D morphodynamic simulations show that the bed dynamics in the surf zone represent the
relevant 3D effects in the surf zone much more than the depth-averaged computations. It was shown that the quasi-3D approach is computationally efficient as it only adds about 15-20% to the runtimes of a 2DH simulation which is minor compared to a run time increase of 250-800% when switching to a 3D simulation.
TSUNAMI MODELLING AND RISK MAPPING FOR EAST COAST OF SABAH, MALAYSIA
Authors: Pedersen Claus , Latif Ziauddin Abdul , Lai Caroline
Published: October 2012

A tsunami risk mapping study for the east coast of the state of Sabah, Malaysia, has been initiated by the Government of Malaysia. The main objective is to produce tsunami risk maps that can be taken into account in local planning for the coastal zone. The study covers a coastline of more than a thousand kilometers which generally is sparsely populated outside the main population centers. The study is regional in character, but with additional focus on the main population centers. The paper outlines the overall steps of hazard mapping through source identification and modelling followed by tsunami wave propagation and potential modelling of overland flow. Modelling challenges related to sparse bathymetry data, limitations to resolution due to the large coverage required combined with a complex bathymetry with coral reefs, islands and outcrops is discussed. Data and model resolution for overland flow modelling is discussed. For the present study, it was found that the inaccuracies in the topographic data is of similar magnitude to the expected inundation levels, and caution has to be exercised in deriving hazard levels from the overland flow modelling. For a regional scale risk mapping exercise, and in the absence of very detailed topographic data, it may be preferable to use the wave height along the coastline as a hazard indicator rather than potentially inaccurate inundation levels and overland flow velocities.
NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF TSUNAMI CURRENTS
Authors: Nakaza Eizo , Iribe Tsunakiyo , Abdur Rouf Muhammad
Published: October 2012

The paper aims to simulate Tsunami currents around moving and fixed structures using the moving-particle semi-implicit method. An open channel with four different sets of structures is employed in the numerical model. The simulation results for the case with one structure indicate that the flow around the moving structure is faster than that around the fixed structure. The flow becomes more complex for cases with additional structures.
THREE-DIMENSIONAL MODELING OF LONG-WAVE RUNUP: SIMULATION OF TSUNAMI INUNDATION WITH GPU-SPHYSICS
Authors: Weiss Robert , Munoz Andrew James , Dalrymple Robert A. , Herault Alexis , Bilotta Giuseppe
Published: October 2012

Tsunamis need to be studied more carefully and quantitatively to fully understand their destructive impact on coastal areas. Numerical modeling provides an accurate and useful method to model tsunami inundations on a coastline. However, models must undergo a detailed verification and validation process to be used as an accurate hazard assessment tool. Using standards and procedures given by NOAA, a new code in hydrodynamic modeling called GPU-SPHysics can be verified and validated for use as a tsunami inundation model. GPU-SPHysics is a meshless, Lagrangian code that utilizes the computing power of the Graphics Processing Unit (GPU) to calculate high resolution hydrodynamic simulations using the equations given by Smooth Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH). GPU-SPHysics has proven to be an accurate tool in modeling complex tsunami inundations, such as the inundation on a conical island, when tested against extensive laboratory data.
NEW SAFETY STANDARDS FOR COASTAL FLOOD DEFENCES IN THE NETHERLANDS
Authors: Jonkman Sebastiaan N. , Jongejan Ruben , Maaskant Bob , Vrijling Han
Published: October 2012

The Dutch government is in the process of revising its flood safety policy. The current safety standards for flood defences in the Netherlands are largely based on the outcomes of cost-benefit analyses. Loss of life has not been considered separately in the choice for current standards. This article presents the results of a research project that evaluated the potential roles of two risk metrics, individual and societal risk, to support decision-making about new flood safety standards. These risk metrics are already used in the Dutch major hazards policy for the evaluation of risks to the public. Individual risk concerns the annual probability of death of a person. Societal risk concerns the probability of an event with many fatalities. Technical aspects of the use of individual and societal risk metrics in flood risk assessments as well as policy implications are discussed. Preliminary estimates of nationwide levels of societal risk are presented. Societal risk levels appear relatively high in the South Western part of the country where densely populated dike rings are threatened by a combination of river and coastal floods. Options for the application of the individual and societal risk in the new flood safety policy are presented and discussed.
IMMEDIATE IMPACTS OF HURRICANE IKE ON THE TEXAS COAST
Authors: Edge Billy L , Ewing Lesley , Dean Robert G , Kaihatu James M , Overton Margery F , Rogers Spencer M , Work Paul A
Published: October 2012

Hurricane Ike was a large storm as it crossed the Gulf of Mexico. When it entered into Texas it caused a storm surge of up to 4 m and substantial waves with high winds represented by a Category 2 hurricane. The storm caused extensive flooding and erosion which led to significant property damage on Boliver Peninsula and on Galveston Island. COPRI (Coasts, Oceans, Ports and Rivers Institute) of the ASCE (American Society of Civil Engineers) sponsored a team of engineers and scientists to observe the coast and collect perishable data approximately one month after the storm. One of the main conclusions from the inspection of buildings was that elevation was a key determinant for survival. Members of the team returned for another visit approximately one year later to observe how the recovery had progressed. Those observations show some redevelopment but also some serious flaws in the coastal management implementation.
INUNDATION AND DESTRUCTION ON THE BOLIVAR PENINSULA DURING HURRICANE IKE
Authors: Kennedy Andrew , Dosa Matild , Zarama Franciso , Gravois Uriah , Zachry Brian , Rogers Spencer , Sallenger Asbury
Published: October 2012

Hurricane Ike was one of the most destructive storms in US history, and caused catastrophic damage to the Bolivar Peninsula, Texas, with over 4.7m measured surge at the Gulf of Mexico shoreline. This surge began unusually early, reaching 2.5m at 25 hours before landfall while winds were both weak and shore-parallel. The strong forerunner surge resulted from Coriolis effects on the wind-driven alongshelf current, and occurred previously in the similarly destructive 1900 and 1915 Galveston Hurricanes. In onshore areas with strong wave action, damage was near-total to buildings whose flooring systems could be reached by wave crests, while slightly more elevated buildings survived almost unscathed. There was much less of a correlation between survival and elevation in areas with small waves.
STOCHASTIC TYPHOON MODEL AND ITS APPLICATION TO FUTURE TYPHOON PROJECTION
Authors: Yasuda Tomohiro , Mase Hajime , Kunitomi Shoji , Mori Nobuhito , Hayashi Yuta
Published: October 2012

This study presents a stochastic typhoon model (STM) for estimating the characteristics of typhoons in the present and future climate conditions. Differences of statistical characteristics between present and future typhoons were estimated from projections by an Atmospheric General Circulation Model (AGCM) under a climate change scenario and are taken into account in the stochastic modelling of future typhoons as a climate change signal. From the STM results which utilize the Monte Carlo simulation, it was found that the frequency of typhoon landfall in Osaka bay area, Japan, will decrease, although the mean value of atmospheric central pressure of typhoon will not change significantly. The arrival probability of stronger typhoons will increase in the future climate scenario.
DOWNSCALING TROPICAL CYCLONES FROM GLOBAL RE-ANALYSIS AND SCENARIOS: STATISTICS OF MULTI-DECADAL VARIABILITY OF TC ACTIVITY IN E ASIA
Authors: Von Storch Hans , Feser Frauke , Barcikowska Monika
Published: October 2012

An atmospheric regional climate model was employed for describing weather of E Asia for the last decades as well as for the coming century. Re-analyses provided by Global National Center for Environmental Prediction - National Center for Atmospheric Research (NCEP-NCAR) for the past six decades, as well a scenario generated by the ECHAM5/MPI-OM model were dynamically downscaled to a 50 km grid using a state-of-the-art regional climate model (CCLM). Using an automated tracking system, all tropical cyclones (TCs) are identified in the multi-decadal simulations. The different analysis products of TC-statistics were found to differ strongly, also in recent times when the data base was good, so that in the long-term statistics 1950-2010 inhomogeneities mask real climatic variations. The 1948-2009 time series of the annual numbers of TCs in the NCEP-driven simulation and in the JMA best track data (BT) correlate favourably. The number is almost constant, even if there is a slight tendency in BT to show less storms, whereas CCLM shows somewhat more storms, which became more intense. The ECHAM5/MPI-OM-driven scenario simulation, subject to 1959-2100 observed and projected greenhouse gas concentrations, shows a reduction of the number of storms, which maintains a stationary intensity in terms of maximum sustained winds and minimum pressure. Thus, BT-trends and downscaled trends were found to be inconsistent, but also the downscaled trends 1948-2009 and the trends derived from the A1B-scenario were different.
VULNERABILITY TO COASTAL FLOODING INDUCED BY TROPICAL CYCLONES
Authors: Posada-Vanegas Gregorio , Durán-Valdez Gerardo , Silva-Casarin Rodolfo , Maya-Magaña Maria Elena , Salinas-Prieto Jose Antonio
Published: October 2012

Hurricanes are a recurrent feature on Mexican coasts; they create floods whose economic and social damages are evident. The necessity to evaluate the natural hazard related to storm surge is fundamental to reduce risk in coastal areas. In order to generate flooding hazard maps, storm surge associated to different return periods is computed with a 2D numerical model. The first part of this work is related with the data and numerical models used to calculate the storm surge, the second part contain the results obtained with the simulations. This work has been done for the entire Mexican coastline but only results for the Gulf of Mexico are presented
APPLICATION OF INSPECT SYSTEM FOR THE ANALYSIS OF TIDE, WAVE, TSUNAMI AND STORM SURGE ON THE COASTS OF SHIKOKU ISLAND, JAPAN
Authors: Shibaki Hidenori , Hara Nobuhiko , Mimura Masaki
Published: October 2012

The INSPECT (Integrated Numerical research System for Prevention and Estimation of Coastal disasTer) system was developed for numerical analysis of oceanographical disaster phenomena in coastal and estuarine areas. The INSPECT consists of three numerical simulation models (Wave, Storm Surge and Tsunami models), their supporting sub-systems and supporting databases. With this system, various coastal protection works can be more reliable designed. The paper presents an outline of the design, basic theory of numerical research and applications of the system. The analysis of tide, Wave, Tsunami and storm surge on the coasts of Shikoku Island in Japan is performed by using INSPECT.
THE JAVA TSUNAMI MODEL: USING HIGHLY-RESOLVED DATA TO MODEL THE PAST EVENT AND TO ESTIMATE THE FUTURE HAZARD
Authors: Kongko Widjo , Schlurmann Torsten
Published: October 2012

This study is to validate the tsunami model with extensive field observation data gathered from the 2006 Java tsunami. In the relevant study area, where highly-resolved geometric data were recently made available and other related post-tsunami field data have been collected, the tsunami maximum run-up onto land and its marigram have been simulated and evaluated. Several plausible tsunami sources are proposed to adequately mimic the 2006 Java tsunami by including the influence of low rigidity material in the accretionary prism as well as its single-multi fault source type's effect. Since it has a significant role on tsunami excitation, this parameter and other assumptions are then employed to study an estimated set of reasonable maximum magnitude earthquake-tsunami scenario and projected inundation areas for probable future tsunami on the South Java coastline. In a final step tentative technical mitigation measures are proposed and assessed to deal with adequate coastal protection issues by means of soft (greenbelt, etc.) and hard engineering (sand dunes, etc.) approaches. Their effectiveness in terms of reducing inundation area is assessed and general recommendations for coastal planning authorities are dealt with.
COASTAL REGIONAL SEDIMENT MANAGEMENT PLAN
Authors: Noble Ronald M. , Moore Jon T.
Published: October 2012

Regional Sediment Management (RSM) is a planning approach that seeks to address coastal sediment processes on a broader geographic scale. It recognizes that sand, cobble, and fine sediment are important natural resources that are critical to the environmental health and economic vitality of the coastal zone. The relevant sediment processes overlap multiple geopolitical boundaries which explains why a regional planning perspective is needed. To be effective a comprehensive road map is needed to addresses how to conserve and restore the valuable sediment resources, reduce shoreline erosion and coastal storm damages, protect sensitive environmental resources, increase natural sediment supply to the coast, preserve and enhance beaches, improve water quality along the shoreline, and optimize the beneficial use of material dredged from ports, harbors, and other opportunistic sediment sources. The plan that was prepared for the diverse 144-mile long Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties coastline was developed systematically using traditional planning processes to understand the baseline science and relevant physical processes; identify the challenges that currently exist and the corresponding opportunities that can be seized to positively move forward; and formulate appropriate action plans and solutions that have unanimity of purpose. It is demonstrated that in order to be technically, environmentally, economically, and politically effective regional sediment management plans should consist of a suite of diverse study, management, policy, and capital project activities.
BARRIER ISLAND RESTORATION FOR STORM DAMAGE REDUCTION: WILLAPA BAY, WASHINGTON, USA
Authors: Michalsen David R , Babcock Steven D , Lin Lihwa
Published: October 2012

The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Seattle District has completed a feasibility study and determined barrier island restoration to be the most appropriate long-term coastal flood and storm damage reduction measure for the Shoalwater Indian Reservation. Over the last century, Cape Shoalwater has receded more than 2.8 miles. By 1990, the Shoalwater Reservation's only remaining protection from storm wave attack was a series of barrier islands fronting Tokeland Peninsula. Extreme water levels coincident with strong winter storms have historically inundated this low lying topography and are responsible for the erosion and overwash of the protective barrier island known as Graveyard Spit. Here a simple risk assessment tool is presented for identifying flood risk to the Shoalwater Reservation infrastructure. Statistical analysis of extreme water levels and numerical modeling is utilized to determine the extent of inundation. From the analysis it was determined 54% of the inventoried infrastructure is at risk during a storm event equivalent to the observed event on March 3, 1999. With the barrier island restoration it was found that this risk is reduced to 7%.
INTEGRATED COASTAL AND MARITIME PLAN FOR OOSTENDE - DESIGN OF SOFT AND HARD COASTAL PROTECTION MEASURES DURING THE EIA PROCEDURES
Authors: Gysens Stefaan , De Rouck Julien , Trouw Koen , Bolle Annelies , Willems Marc
Published: October 2012

The coastal town Ostend in Belgium has his sea wall far in the sea. For this reason, the protection of the town against storms is difficult. A harbor is situated in the city, with the harbor entrance close to the most important sea wall. Integration of harbor constructions and coastal protections schemes is necessary.
STABILITY AND ENGINEERING EFFECT OF SHOALS AND CHANNELS IN CAOFEIDIAN DEEP-WATER HARBOR AREA, CHINA
Authors: Lu Yongjun , Ji Rongyao , Zuo Liqin
Published: October 2012

Caofeidian sea area is the only natural site suitable for building a large-sized berth of 300 000 tons without excavation of waterways and harbor basins in Bohai Bay. In Caofeidian harbor area, the stability of the shoals-inlets coastal system under natural conditions is a key point. The harbor could be developed only if the coastal system is stable. In this paper the characteristics of waves, tidal currents, sedimentation and seabed evolution in the Caofeidian shoal area is briefly described, and the trend of stability of shoals and channels is predicted based on research on the coastal system formation. Engineering effect of some projects, such as the dam linking the Caofeidian Island and the coastline, the shoal reclamation and ore terminal construction, is also studied. The analysis show that deposition and erosion of the seabed in front of Caofeidian foreland will reach its equilibrium in 2ï½ž3 years after the implementation of the proposed scheme.
PILOT STUDY ON NAVIGATION CHANNEL REGULATION WORKS IN THE NORTH CHANNEL, YANGTZE ESTUARY
Authors: Gao Min , Roelvink Dano
Published: October 2012

It is estimated that the waterway in North Passage would not be able to meet the demand of shipping development soon and it is necessary to open a new deep navigation channel with a depth of 10 m in North Channel in the near future. A pilot study on the regulation of North Channel was proposed by Yangtze Estuary Waterway Administration Bureau and Prof. Dano Roelvink from UNESCO-IHE. The idea of regulating the navigation channel in North Channel was raised based on an analysis of morphological processes in this area. Multiple regulation plans were proposed, amongst which a configuration to regulate the North Channel was suggested after a study on a numerical modelling of tidal flow and morphological processes. Some suggestions were put forward for future studies.
ASSESSING PRESENT AND FUTURE MEDITERRANEAN SEA LEVEL RISE IMPACT ON ISRAEL'S COAST AND MITIGATION WAYS AGAINST BEACH AND CLIFF EROSION
Authors: Rosen Sergiu Dov
Published: October 2012

This paper presents the outcome of a coastal engineering hydro and morpho-dynamic model study using a number of
numerical models which was conducted by the author on the erosion state of the Mediterranean coast of Israel for a
time horizon of 100 years. The study assessed future sea levels, and compared wave setup and runup and beach
profile erosion at the coastal cliffs in order to determine the relative sensitivity of the various coastal sectors of the
Israeli shore. Finally it investigated measures and means for effective the mitigation of the forecasted beach and cliff
erosion. The study was carried out as part of a multi disciplinary work involving various additional disciplines, and
was used to establish a national policy document in regards to the coastal cliffs collapse and erosion by natural and
anthropogenic induced factors, including global warming induced sea level rise and reduced return period of extreme
events. The approach and outcomes are estimated to be useful for coasts of similar conditions elsewhere on the globe.
SIMULATION MODEL FOR HARBOR VERIFICATION AND MANAGMENT
Authors: Solari Sebastian , Moñino Antonio , Baquerizo Asunción , Losada Miguel Angel
Published: October 2012

This work presents an integrated model for harbor verification and management. The model is based on simulation techniques and includes a queuing system for waiting time calculations and estimates failure probabilities. Within the model, climatic agents (wave, currents, etc.) are transformed in order to know their values at any subset of the system, and the response of the ship to the different agents is computed, in order to estimate failure probability during transits. The model is applied to a case study, at the Bay of Cádiz Harbor, Spain, and some example applications are show.
COMMUNITY RESILIENCE: LESSONS FROM RECENT DISASTERS
Authors: Ewing Lesley , Synolakis Costas E.
Published: October 2012

Resilience occurs at many levels, from global and national to family and individual. Community and local government efforts for resilience fit in the middle of this spectrum. Major community elements that are important both for minimizing vulnerability and hasten recovery include transportation, communication, water, energy, emergency services and housing. Coastal areas have some special concerns for vulnerabilities that can arise from coastal hazards such as tsunamis, hurricanes, storms, flooding, and erosion; lessons from recent coastal disasters provide recommendations for improved disaster management and community resilience. Resilience is not a one-time effort that can arise from a single approach; it is an ongoing community process, resulting from a combination of approaches. A Community Resilience Index (CRI) can help communities recognize their resilience strengths and opportunities for improvement. A "bare-bones† Community Resilience Index (CRI) has been developed based upon lessons learned from recent coastal disasters. The utility of the CRI is tested for recent community disasters at Galveston, Texas from Hurricane Ike, at American Samoa from the 2009 Samoan tsunami and at Pacifica, California from the 2009/2010 winter storms. Case studies will help identify additional CRI factors that will expand the focus of the CRI and improve overall community disaster management and coastal resilience.
MODEL FOR PREDICTING FORMATION OF BAY BARRIER
Authors: Serizawa Masumi , Uda Takaaki
Published: October 2012

A barrier island often develops along the marginal area of a flat shallow sea. Various explanations have been given for the cause of development of barrier islands. Most studies have focused on the development and deformation of a barrier island during increases in sea level in terms of the stratification of sand layers in the sand bar and the change in longitudinal profiles (Schwarz, 1971), and studies on the 3-D development of a barrier considering the water depth where the barrier island develops and wave intensity are rare. In this study, we consider the relationship between wave energy and the water depth where a barrier island develops, in which the wave energy reaching the shoreline is controlled under a constant-sea-level condition. On the basis of the results of a movable bed experiment by Uda et al. (1994), the development of a bay barrier is investigated using the BG model proposed by Serizawa et al. (2009), taking a bay barrier that extends deep in a bay as an example.
MOMENTUM BALANCE UNDER PLUNGING BREAKERS: THE ROLE OF ADVECTION ON SEDIMENT MOBILIZATION AND TRANSPORT
Authors: Torres-Freyermuth Alec , Pedrozo-Acuña Adrián , Simmonds Dave , Reeve Dominic E , Salles Paulo
Published: October 2012

Pressure gradients are thought to be important in sediment mobilization and transport [Madsen 1976; Foster et al. 2006]. Prior studies have incorporated this effect in sediment transport models [Drake & Calantoni 2001; Hoefel & Elgar 2003] through a local acceleration term as a proxy of the horizontal pressure gradient. However, the poor correlation between the total force and the local acceleration inside the surf /swash region has been pointed out in model-based investigations [e.g., Puleo et al. 2007; Pedrozo-Acuña et al. 2010]. This work aims to refine the analysis of the momentum balance under plunging breakers and to evaluate the implications for sediment mobilization .
MODELING SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE YELLOW RIVER MOUTH
Authors: Zong Haibo , Ding Pingxing , Shi Fengyan
Published: October 2012

Yellow River is famous for its high sediment concentration, which carries a huge amount of sediment into Bohai Sea during the flood season. In the mouth of Yellow River, the suspended sediment concentration (here after: SSC) are relatively high and the average depth is generally shallow. Recent studies indicated that in the shallow and micro-tide area, wave usually is a primary mechanism for bottom sediment resuspension. Most numerical studies of sediment transport in the Yellow River mouth didn't include the wave effects. To analyze the sediment transport in the Yellow River mouth with wave effect, a Coastal Sediment Transport Modeling System (CSTMS) was applied in this study.
NUMERICAL ANALYSIS OF DEFORMATION BASED DESIGN FOR CAISSONS
Authors: Cihan Kubilay , Arı Havva Anıl , Yuksel Yalçın , Berilgen Mehmet
Published: October 2012

Caissons are used effectively to protect shorelines and harbours by reflecting wave energy towards the open sea. The successful performance of caissons has been attributed to experience and continued research. The seismic design for caissons is important since the functional loss of ports may cause severe economic loss. It is necessary to conduct a seismic design in terms of functionality so that cargo handling facilities may continue to function even after severe earthquakes. Relative displacement is an important index when the functionality of crane rails on caisson-type quay walls is discussed. Recent design codes for caissons demand performance-based designs. These codes require that the seismic performance of the walls be evaluated based on the permanent wall displacement after an earthquake. The seismic displacement of the caissons can be evaluated by dynamic analyses or simplified dynamic analyses based on the Newmark sliding block concept. Comprehensive results for the dynamic behaviour of soil and caissons can be obtained from dynamic analyses. In this study, the dynamic behaviour of soil and caissons were investigated by using FEM method and results were compared with experimental results from previous study existed in literature.
WAVE INTERACTION WITH DECK OF JETTY ON A SLOPE
Authors: Meng Yanqiu , Chen Guoping , Yan Shichang
Published: October 2012

Experimental investigations were carried out on wave-induced uplift loads on deck of shore-connecting high pile jetty on a slope in regular waves. A study on effect of gap (between deck end and shore line) on wave impact was also performed. It is found that the maximum uplift loads generally lag behind the maximum impact pressure and are associated with the pressure uniformly distributed along deck. Analysis of the measured data confirms that the distribution length for the uniform pressure is equivalent to wave contact length x. When x is larger than the width of deck B, it is taken as B. The non-dimensional uplift load increases with the increased relative deck clearance Î"h/Î·. The increasing tendency continues up to Î"h/Î·=0.2 and at that location the wave uplift load reaches a peak. After that, the load decreases until at certain deck level the above trend of load start to repeat once more. Generally, two peaks of wave uplift load occur in the range of deck clearance tested. The magnitude of the second wave load peak is larger than the first one. The non-dimensional wave force is observed to increase when the ratio of the wave length to the deck width increase up to a certain ratio. Beyond that ratio the force is less sensitive to the variation of the deck width. It is also found that the force reduces with increase in gap width. This decreasing trend of force is favorable for the design. From the investigation with wide range of input wave and structure parameters, simple predictive equation for wave uplift load was proposed for regular waves.
GLOBAL VULNERABILITY PROJECTION ON STORM SURGES DUE TO TROPICAL CYCLONES
Authors: Nobuoka Hisamichi , Mimura Nobuo
Published: October 2012

Coastal zones is one of the severe vulnerability area in the 21st century because of impact of rise in sea level according to global warming and increase in population, especially in mega-deltas. The vulnerability assessment in coastal zone can contribute to not only necessity of mitigation but also adaptation, against the global warming and the population problem. Though Hoozemans et al. (1993), Robert Nichols et al. (1999) and their later works carried out the basic assessments of coastal vulnerability in the world, the storm surges and high-astronomical tides did not hold enough accuracy.

The purpose of this study is to present the global map of storm surges and that flooding area, which made by the results of numerical simulation of storm surges due to tropical cyclones in last 50 years. Moreover, increase in flooded population by the storm surges is also projected during the 21st century.
WAVE CLIMATE CHANGE PROJECTION AT THE END OF 21ST CENTURY
Authors: Shimura Tomoya , Mori Nobuhito , Tom Tracey , Yasuda Tomohiro , Mase Hajime
Published: October 2012

The influence of global climate change due to green house effects will require impact assessment and adaptation strategies for future our society. The sea level rise is a static side issue of climate change and is important for human activity near the coastal zone. On the other hand, waves and storm surge are dynamic side of climate change and will be necessary to take into the consideration for coastal disaster prevention and reduction, if extreme weather events will become stronger than those in the present climate. This study estimate the future ocean wave climate in comparison with those in present climate based on the global atmospheric climate model and global wave model.
THE RESEARCH OF REGULATION MEASURES ON BRAIDED CHANNEL IN YALU RIVER ESTUARY
Authors: Cao Yufen , Zheng Baoyou , Sun Liancheng , Gao Feng
Published: October 2012

By analyzing nature condition of Yalu River estuary part and many domestic and overseas rivers esturary regulation experience,the regulation principles are put forward and the regulation aim is confirmed according to the requirement of west project of china. By numerical model, the regulation measures on baided channel in Yalu River Estuary have been studied. Two measures are recommended by the research.One which is single dredging way,can be as the 1st stage regulation measure;the other measure which is mixed way of regulation and dredging way,can be as the 2nd stage regulation measure.
TIDAL POWER PLANT ALONG THE WESTERN SHELDT
Authors: Mooyaart L. F. , Van Duivendijk J. , Jonkman S. N. , Vrijling J. K.
Published: October 2012

So far tidal energy did not seem feasible for the Netherlands, as the tidal difference is relatively small. After resarch done on a tidal power plant at the Brouwersdam it turned out that production of tidal energy could become attrractive.
VERTICAL SCALES AND SHEAR STRESSES IN WAVE BOUNDARY LAYERS OVER MOVABLE BEDS
Authors: Nielsen Peter , Guard Paul A.
Published: October 2012

Unified scaling rules are provided for smooth and rough wave boundary layers. It is shown that the rough equivalent of the smooth, or viscous, vertical scale , the Stokes' length, is a function of r, the Nikuradse roughness and A, the near-bed semi excursion of the wave motion. Realizing this equivalence of viscous and rough scales a unified description in the style of Colebrook's (1939) formulae for steady flow friction can be devised based on the unified vertical scale. That is, unified smooth and rough wave friction factor formulae can be used with adequate accuracy. A general procedure is given for deriving the unified vertical scale from velocity data including data from mobile bed experiments, which enable determination of the equivalent Nikuradse roughness from these experiments. Presently available sheet flow data show a velocity structure, which corresponds to a Nikuradse roughness r of the order 50 to 100 grain diameters. Instantaneous shear stresses derived through the usual momentum integral from sheet flow experiments show that the shear stress ï€ ï€ varies strongly through the sheet flow layer with the value at the lowest level of sediment motion being 2 to 3 times the value at the undisturbed bed level. The corresponding Nikuradse roughnesses are about 2.5d50 corresponding to the undisturbed bed level and 100d50 for the stress at the lowest level of sediment motion. With this strong variation of the shear stress through the layer of moving sediment, it is not at all obvious what should be understood by THE BED SHEAR STRESS in the context of wave sediment transport.
FIELD EXPERIMENT ON BEACH NOURISHMENT USING GRAVEL AT JINKOJI COAST
Authors: Kumada Takayuki , Uda Takaaki , Matsu-ura Takeo , Sumiya Michio
Published: October 2012

Beach nourishment using 87,000 m3 of gravel with grain size between 2.5 and 13 mm was experimentally carried out until April 2008 at the Jinkoji coast, which faces the Pacific Ocean and is surrounded by artificial headlands. Monitoring surveys, a boring test and core sampling on the beach were carried out to investigate the mechanism of the formation of gravel layers and their effect on protecting the foot of the seawall. It was found that the nourishment gravel was deposited with a slope of 1/8 at the foot of the seawall, thus providing some protection to the seawall, and that the nourishment gravel was stably deposited without offshore discharge.
SHORELINE SAND WAVES AND BEACH NOURISHMENTS
Authors: Van den Berg N. , Falqués A. , Ribas F.
Published: October 2012

The effects of the feedback between the changing coastal morphology and the wavefield on the generation and propagation of large scale (O(1-10 km)) shoreline sand waves is examined with a quasi-2D morphodynamic model. Traditional shoreline change models do not include this feedback and are only able to describe diffusion of shoreline sand waves and furthermore they are unable to describe migration. It is found with the present model that if there is a dominant littoral drift, the feedback causes downdrift migration of coastline features no matter if they grow or decay. Consistently with previous studies, simulations show that a rectilinear coastline becomes unstable and sand waves tend to grow spontaneously from random perturbations, if the wave incidence angle is larger then about 42o (Î¸c) at the depth of closure (high angle wave instability). The initial wavelengths at which the sand waves develop are 2-3 km and this is similar to previous linear stability analysis. The implications of high angle wave instability for beach nourishments are investigated. The nourished shoreline retreats initially due to cross-shore transport because the nourished profile is steeper than the equilibrium profile. When a dominant littoral drift is present, the nourishment also migrates downdrift. If the wave angle at the depth of closure is below Î¸c the alongshore transport contributes to the diffusion of the nourishment. However, if the angle is above Î¸c (constant high angle wave conditions) the diffusion is reversed and the nourishment can trigger the formation of a shoreline sand wave train. Numerical experiments changing the proportion of 'high angle waves' and 'low angle waves' in the wave climate show that relatively small proportions of low angle waves slow down the growth of sand waves. These simulations with more realistic wave climates show shoreline sand waves that migrate downdrift maintaining more or less the same amplitude for years.