bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Studies in Wear Life of Normal- and Special-Finished Woven Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Sarma G.V. , Maji M.R. , Ranganathan S.R. , Chipalkatti V.B.
Published: March 2007

A statistically designed service wear trial of normal- and special-finished shirts for school boys was undertaken under controlled conditions of wearing and laundering, with the object of providing a basis for predictions of service wear performance from results of laboratory tests. The tear and abrasion performance were separated and the former is reported in this paper. The concept of "consistent significance" of a physical property has been introduced as a necessary basis for its choice as a predictor of tear performance in service, on the grounds that predictions made on the initial levels of physical properties, unless confirmed on the basis of their changing levels during progressive use in service, could be misleading. In the present study, the tensile strength is found to be consistently significant and, hence, the dominant functional fabric property actually involved in explaining tear performance in service.
Oil Take Up and Removal by Washing from Polyester, Polyester/Cotton Blend and Other Fabrics
Authors: Brown C.B. , Thompson S.H. , Stewart G.
Published: March 2007

Oil stains of various types are much more easily removed from filament polyester fabric and from filament nylon than from staple polyester fabric or from staple poly ester/cotton blend. Filament polyester fabric takes up only about 20% as much oil from dilute aqueous emulsion as does' staple polyester fabric of approximately similar weight per unit area during side-by-side soiling, and the oil is much more tenaciously held by the staple fabric.

In practical wear/wash tests on coats fat-soiled by use in a fish and chip establish ment, filament polyester and filament nylon are easily washed at 48°C and present no problem. Staple polyester and staple polyester/cotton blend fabrics are much more difhcult to clean at 48°C, although satisfactory cleaning is obtained if the staple polyester/cotton blend carries a Cirrasol PT (Permalose T) finish. Washing the untreated staple polyester, staple polyester/cotton blend, and the cotton fabrics at 85°C, instead of 48°C, goes a substantial way towards satisfactory cleaning, although it does not completely solve the problem. The slight creasing produced on these fabrics is removed by light ironing.

The difference in behavior between the staple and filament fabrics is not due to differences in surface area, which are comparatively slight. Scanning electron micros copy reveals heavy deposits of fat on the staple fabric, these being largely held between the criss-cross randomly spaced fibers. No such deposits are present on the filament fabric, the fat being mainly on the fibers themselves. In washing, the oil is almost completely removed from the filament fabric, but portions still remain on the staple cloth, largely held in the V-shaped areas where the fibers cross each other.
Sodium Ethylcellulose Sulfate1
Authors: Slowig W.D. , Rowley M.E.
Published: March 2007

The sulfate ester of ethylcellulose is prepared by reacting sodium acetyl sulfate with a partially ethylated cellulose. After a reaction time of less than 1 hr at room tempera ture, the product is isolated as the sodium salt and washed in isopropanol. The dried material is dense, granular, and free-flowing and has good dry-heat and water-solution stability. The water-soluble sodium ethylcellulose sulfate is also soluble in a variety of organic solvents and solvent mixtures. Solubility characteristics can be altered by proper selection of the starting cellulose ether and the degree of sulfation.

This sulfate ester has many possible end uses, because of the unique dual solubility that allows, for coating from volatile solvents. Solvent-cast sheeting is heat-sealable, clear, and water-soluble; it is flexible at low temperature and humidity, when plasti cized with an aliphatic dibasic acid ester. The product is an excellent resin binder for pigments and other solids in both water and water-alcohol. Low-viscosity solutions in organic solvents can be coated and rapidly cured on medicament tablets.
Flexing Fatigue of Glass-Fiber Filter Cloth
Authors: Hicks R.E. , Mandersloot W.G.B.
Published: March 2007

A flexing endurance test, using a modification of ASTM D643-43 for paper, is suit able for the evaluation of glass-fiber filter cloth. The test can be applied to new cloths and cloths after exposure to heat, this being the major cause of deterioration of the cloth properties in practice. Superior flexing endurance, when new, is not necessarily main tained after heat exposure.

The life distribution is log-normal for the texturized-yarn weft direction and bi-modal log-normal for the continuous-filament-yarn warp direction. For the warp, a two-stage mechanism leading to failure is evident from the observed specimen elongations; for the weft, only one stage was observed.

The log of life is inversely proportional to the flexing angle, which is explained by considering the flexing angle (proportional to the length of specimen being flexed) as an equivalent of specimen length in axial-stress cycle fatigue.
The Stress-Strain Behavior of Wool in Various Swelling Media
Authors: Abbott Norman J. , Temin Samuel C. , Park Chunghi
Published: March 2007

Wool fibers immersed in formic acid exhibit elastic properties characterized by a low modulus, art almost linear stress-strain curve, and complete recovery from all elongations up to at least 30% elongation with little or no hysteresis. The work undertaken sought to determine whether the action of formic acid on wool was unique, by providing information about the swelling of wool and its relationship to changes in the stress-strain properties in a variety of chemicals. Several immersion media were found to affect wool in a way similar to, but not identical with, formic acid. In general, complete recovery with little hysteresis is only achieved in a fiber which has been swollen diametrically by at least 50%. Swelling in 15 acids, 16 amines, and 20 neutral media was measured at various concentrations, temperatures, and times. Twenty-one curves showing recovery from 20% strain are included.
Stress Relaxation of Wool Fibers in Different Media at 96°C
Authors: Feughelman M. , Irani F. , Gan Maurine
Published: March 2007

This paper reports on the stress relaxation of wool fibers at 96°C at low extensions (<1%) in various solutions and compared the data with the stress relaxation at extensions in the yield region (2-30%). From these results, a clearer picture was formed of the mechanism controlling set in the Hookean region compared with the yield region.
Some Observations on the Kinetics of Dye Fading
Authors: Giles Charles H. , Johari Devendra P. , Shah Champaklal D.
Published: March 2007

All lightfading rates of dyed or pigmented materials can be divided into five main classes and some subgroups, according to the shape of the arithmetic plot of rate of loss of dye. The physical condition and environment of the coloring matter appear to be principal factors determinipg the shape; a change in concentration does not usually change the class of fade.

Class I fades are approximately first-order curves and are indicative of dye dispersed as single molecules or very small associated units. Class II fades are initially class I but later become linear (zero order), probably because a high proportion of coloring matter either is firmly embedded in the substrate molecules or is present as relatively large associated units. Class III fades resemble the later portion of Class II for similar reasons.

Class IV fades have a point of inflection, with a more rapid fade following an initial slow change or even an apparent negative fade, i.e., an increase in depth of color; class V fades accelerate continuously from the start. Both classes IV and V are believed to be the result of combined effects of light and heat on aggregated particles of color. A theoretical treatment of these conditions is given.
Dynamic Testing of Composite Materials
Authors: Behrens Ernst
Published: March 2007

The theoretical and experimental principles of the dynamic testing of composites are described. The example of a steel-aluminum bar, for which three independent elastic constants were accurately determined, is presented in detail. For epoxy resin systems, however, only the longitudinal Young's modulus could be measured dynamically. Certain peculiarities arising from the anisotropy of the material are pointed out, and further applications and limitations of the method are discussed. Dispersion relations for longitudinal and torsional sound waves in thin ba-s with orthorhombic symmetry are derived in the Appendix.
A Mechanical Model for Wool
Authors: Menefee Emory
Published: March 2007

A model is presented which seems to account more fully for wool properties. This model contains two axially parallel parts: a microfibril made up largely of low-stability alpha-keratin and a matrix consisting of a series arrangement of high-stability alpha- keratin chains and amorphous protein partly extended in the axial direction. The matrix, which contains most of the cross links of the cortex, has a modulus considerably higher than that of the microfibrils. On extension, beta-keratin may originate from both the alpha chains and the amorphous chains. In solvents, the fiber is considered to have little tendency to swell longitudinally, because of restraints imposed by both amor phous and crystalline phases. Heretofore, it has been thought that the amorphous phase strives to swell isotropically but is restricted by the crystalline phase to swelling in the radial direction.

Because of the high modulus now attributed to the matrix, the fiber structure appears to correspond mechanically to a honeycomb, at least with respect to tensile properties. I n compression, the microfibrils exhibit a high modulus, so that the composite structure also has some of the features of prestressed concrete. An example of the use of the model is given for the modulus of wool swollen in water and in water/formic acid mixtures.
Differential Thermal Analysis (DTA) and Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA) Studies of Flame-Retardant Rayon Fibers
Authors: Godfrey Leonard E. A.
Published: March 2007

The thermal behavior of flame-retardant fibers in which the flame-retardant chemical trapped inside the regenerated cellulose has now been studied, by differential thermal analysis (DTA) and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). The thermograms obtained in a dynamic air atmosphere resemble those previously reported elsewhere for cellulosic materials treated with flame retardants in the conventional manner. In all cases, it has been found that the thermal degradation of the flame-retardant fibers begins at a lower temperature than for the control. A smaller quantity of flammable volatile matter is evolved and a much larger residue remains when the pyrolysis is complete. The total area of the exothermic peaks is, therefore, much smaller for the flame-retardant fibers than for the control.

When the same flame-retardant fibers are heated in a nitrogen atmosphere, it can be easily seen that the onset of decomposition occurs quite suddenly at a definite temperature and clearly involves a reaction between the flame retardant and the cellulose. Examination of the flame-retardant chemicals themselves shows that these materials undergo a chemical change at approximately the same temperature, and it is this change that precipitates the interaction with the cellulose.

Heating the flame-retardant rayon fibers in a conventional Fisher-Johns melting point apparatus shows that, although scorching occurs at lower temperatures than for untreated rayon, the difference is not large enough to have any effect on the processing or care of fabrics made from these fibers.
A Thermochemical Investigation of Cotton Flame Retardance
Authors: Smith James K. , Rawls H. Ralph , Felder M. Susan , Klein Elias
Published: March 2007

Differential scanning calorimetry and thermogravimetric analysis curves were obtained for cotton cellulose in the presence of both flame-retarding and nonflame-retarding compounds and evaluated quantitatively for ΔH, activation energy, total weight loss, and char remaining after pyrolysis. Twenty-three compounds were tested and were found to fall roughly into three groups: (I) those which do not undergo decomposition in the temperature interval in which cellulose decomposes (200-400°C); (II) those which decompose appreciably during or preceding this temperature range; and (III) those which do not interact in any way with cellulose. It was found that, with increasing molar add-on, heat liberated from cellulose decreased for group I, increased for group II, and was not a function of molar add-on for III.

A study of the kinetics of decomposition for these systems indicates that, while the majority of reactions proceeded as a pseudo first-order process, there are several exceptions to the trend. As would be expected for a first-order process, activation energy was found to decrease with increasing flame retardancy.

Further, it has been observed that the addition to cellulose of any of the compounds from the first two groups lowers the onset temperature of decomposition and the temperature at which the first major weight loss begins. This temperature decrease approaches some type of limiting value for all the compounds, and varies from compound to compound. In addition, a large increase in remaining char results from a very small add-on, and this, too, tends to approach a limiting value as add-on increases.
Salt-Bath Process for the Chemical Finishing of Cotton
Authors: Tanquary A.C. , Liggett R.W.
Published: March 2007

Wet fixation of durable-press resins in cotton fabrics has been accomplished by immersing the cloth, padded with re actants and catalyst, in a hot, concentrated solution of sodium sulfate or other suitable salt for a time (30 sec or less). sufficient to effect fixation .The treated fabric is then washed free of the salt and the unreacted agent and dried or processed further as desired. Presumably, the salt solution provides a heat-transfer medium that maintains the fibers in a swollen condition during reaction, with minimal leaching of the reactants from the fibers. Properties of the cured fabrics are es sentially equivalent to those of fabrics wet-fixed by the Mylar-bag and steam techniques.

A limited mill trial, in which a Williams unit was employed for the salt bath, presented no unusual problems and es, sentially confirmed the laboratory results on wet fixation.
Nature and Proportion of Cross Links in a Chemically Modified Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Roberts Earl J. , Brannan Mary Ann F. , Rowland Stanley P.
Published: March 2007

Cotton fabric was reacted with sodium N-methyl-bis (2-sulfatoethyl) amine in hake-cure reactions and with N-methyl-bis (2-chloroethyl) amine in wet-cure reactions. These reagents were selected so that the cross linkages and substituent groups in the chemically modified cotton would be amenable to analysis by current chemical techniques. The structural units developed by the reagent residues were isolated and identified by means of gas-liquid chromatography and electro- , phoresis. The nature and amount of the structural components of the reagent residues are related to the specific reagent and to the process of reaction. Simple cross linkages involving a single reagent unit constitute a small fraction (about 11-26%) of the total reagent residues. The predominating simple cross link develops between the 2-O- and 6-O-positions of D-glucopyranosyl units.
The Spiral Angle of Cotton
Authors: Morosoff N. , Ingram P.
Published: March 2007

Spiral angles of segments (interconvolution tracts) of single cotton fibers have been obtained by taking the largest apparent spiral angle on two x-ray microcamera photographs made of the center of the segment, or on several microcamera photographs taken along the length of the segment. The mean of the spiral angle obtained for several segments in this manner is found to be in good agreement with the mean of the value obtained for these same segments by the Hartshorne optical method. Measurements of the spiral angle on six varieties of cotton representing a broad range of x-ray angles (50% angles), using this optical method, show that the spiral angle is a constant in the range of 20-23°.
Principles of a New Procedure for Measuring Yarn Hairiness. Application to the Study of the Hairiness of Open-End Yarns
Authors: Barella A. , Viaplana A.
Published: March 2007

The fundamental principle of a new electronic apparatus for measuring yarn hairiness is described; it furnishes simultaneously three parameters, viz, yarn diameter, index of total hairiness, and index of hair length. As an example of the practical application of the new apparatus, the comparative hairiness of conventional yarns and open-end yarns spun on a BD 200 spinning frame was studied.
The Formation of Mixed Disulfides by the Action of Thioglycollic Acid on Wool—Cystine and its Relationship to Wool Setting
Authors: Asquith R.S. , Puri A.K.
Published: March 2007

The formation of mixed disulfide in the reaction of thioglycollic acid with pure cystine and also with cystine residues in wool has been investigated quantitatively. The set obtained by wool treated with thioglycollic acid under various conditions has been compared with the amounts of mixed disulfide formed under these conditions and conclusions derived.
The Influence of Natural Variations in Fiber Properties on the Felting Characteristics of Loose Wool
Authors: Chaudri M.A. , Whiteley K.J.
Published: March 2007

Large variations in the felting rate of loose wool are attributed, principally, to crimp characteristics of the single fibers. Crimp form alone accounts for 77.4% of the variation and, in combination with the directional frictional effect, for 83.3%. Crimp frequency accounts for 32.5% of the variations and, in combination with diameter, for 70.4%. The product of these latter two variables also accounts for a considerable amount of variation (67.1%).
Network Formation in Cotton Cellulose Modified with Tris (1-aziridinyl) phosphine Oxide
Authors: Rowaland S.P. , Roberts E.J. , Stark S.M.
Published: March 2007

Cotton cellulose modified with tris(1-aziridinyl)phosphine oxide (APO) at various levels of reaction was examined for network development (cross-link formation) by determination of the soluble (sol) and insoluble (gel) fractions in cupriethylenediamine hydroxide (Cuene), by observation of dissolution and swelling of thin cross sections in Cuene, and by measurement of the extent of swelling of the gel fraction in Cuene. The behavior of the APO-modified cotton cellulose is compared to that of cotton cross-linked with formaldehyde in a bake-cure process. Relatively low effectiveness of APO in developing a network structure in cotton cellulose is indicated by the results of this study. Mathematical analysis of the sol-gel data by means of the Charlesby-Pinner and Schultz equations leads to numerical estimates of the extent of Cuene-stable covalent bond formation between APO residues and the glucopyranosyl units of cotton cellulose; the results are in agreement (within a factor of two) with the results of organic component analysis reported in the preceding papers.
Waves in Tires
Authors: Ames William F.
Published: March 2007

Bias-ply tires; tires. Traveling waves; tire dynamics. Theoretical analysis; basic equations; stresses under rotation; shape equilibrium equation.
Distribution of Sodium and Chloride Ions between Modified Wools and Salt Solutions in the Neutral Region of pH
Authors: Shah R.C. , Gandhi R.S.
Published: March 2007

The Donnan theory for membrane equilibria has been applied to the distribution data of sodium and chloride ions on untreated and treated wools in the neutral region of pH. The polyelectrolyte theory of Mathieson and Whewell has been applied to the data on acid-combining capacity of modified wools. It is observed that, whereas both the hydrogen and sodium ions are adsorbed onto specific sites in the modified substrate after periodic acid oxidations, chlorine ions are re pelled increasingly as the degree of oxidation is increased. After a certain optimum limit of oxidation, the intrinsic dissoci ation constant pKe of carboxylic acid groups is suppressed to such an extent that sodium ions become dominant in the inter nal fiber phase. At this stage, periodic acid-treated fibers, which otherwise manifested impaired set/supercontraction, exhibit an improved ability to either supercontract or to acquire set.
Studies of Nonwovens
Authors: Hubbell D.O. , Whitwell J.C.
Published: March 2007

The nature of bonds in staple nonwovens bonded with thermoplastic fibers is examined with optical and scanning elec tron microscopes. The adhesive joints in rayon-vinyon and polyester-polyester systems are of the improper type, i.e., failure occurs at the bond interface.

A quantitative method of characterizing the level of bonding in lightly bonded nonwovens is presented, based on dis tributions of effective fiber length and orientation. The first two moments of the effective length distribution are linearly related to binder concentration and bonding temperature in lightly bonded webs. An empirical relationship between breaking strength and bonding variables is also presented.
A Double-Label Radioactive Tracer Analysis of the Retention of Selected Fats on Cotton and its Relation to Yellowing
Authors: Sontag M.Suzanne , Purchase Mary E. , Smith B.F.
Published: March 2007

A double-label radioactive tracer analysis was developed to determine the comparative retention of representative sebum components on cotton fabric after repeated soiling and laundering and to determine whether the presence or absence of clay significantly affected the retention of the fats. Retention was related to chain length, polarity, unsatura tion, and presence of clay.

The yellowness of cotton soiled with pairs of fats was measured in the presence and absence of clay. Clay contributed significantly to the yellow color. When fat alone was present, there was no significant increase in yellowing until after the fifth wash for oleic acid and triolein. An interaction between the fats and clay caused additional yellowing which was possibly due to greater uptake of clay by entrapment in a fatty matrix and/or to catalysis of oxidation reactions of unsaturated fats by metal ions present in kaolinite clay. '
The Dimensional Properties of Knitted Wool Fabrics
Authors: Knapton J.J.F. , Richards S. , Fong W.
Published: March 2007

The first paper of this series proposed and defined a means of attaining the fully-relaxed state of plain-knit fabric. This paper establishes the validity of this definition, which is shown to essentially discriminate relaxation shrinkage, due only to loop relaxation, from felting fiber migration to a more compact state without loop distortion. This discrimination is achieved by analyzing dimensions of the fabrics through 10 wash and tumble-dry cycles.

We find that area shrinkage from any stage in processing to the fully-relaxed state depends on loop length and yarn count and, to a lesser extent, on fiber quality and yarn twist. Analysis of the dimensional changes from the fully-relaxed state through multiple washing and tumble-drying cycles shows: (1) for yarns spun from WURLAN shrink resist-treated top, area shrinkage increases linearly with the number of wash and tumble-dry cycles, but nonlinearly for untreated yarns; (2) for untreated yarns, shrinkages in length, width, and area depend on fiber quality, yarn twist, and loop length, with complex interactions among these variables; (3) at a low treatment level, linear and area shrinkages depend to a smaller extent on all these variables; (4) at a high treatment level, the WURLAN treatment adequately restricts felting to within an acceptable 8% area shrinkage limit; in this case, changes in length, width, and area from the fully-relaxed state are independent of all fiber, yarn, and fabric variables studied.

We also find that change in length and width from the dry-relaxed to the fully relaxed state depends greatly on loop length, to a minor extent on fiber quality and yarn twist, and not at all on treatment level. These changes were always isotropic, that is, dimensions always decreased during relaxation.
Migration of Fibers in Yarns. Part VIII : Experimental Study on a 3-Layer Structure of 19 Filaments
Authors: Hearle J.W.S. , Goswami B.C.
Published: March 2007

A study was made of the migration behavior of filaments in a 3-layer structure of 19 filaments. The filaments were twisted in two distinct forms: (a) ribbon-twisted and (b) cylindrical-twisted. The form of twisting was found to have an appreciable effect on the migration behavior of filaments. The frequency of migration decreases with increase in ribbon width and free length. The experimental results and the observation of yarn formation indicate that, besides the presence of three principal mechanisms, the migration is also caused by the entanglement of filaments. Tensile pro perties of twisted continuous-filament yarns are affected slightly with change in migration behavior.
An Exploratory Characterization of Cotton Cellulose Modified with Tris (2-chloroethyl)phosphoramide
Authors: Roberts E.J. , Brannan M.A.F. , Rowland S.P.
Published: March 2007

Tris(2-chloroethyl)phosphoramide prepared from ethylenimine and phosphorus oxychloride was reacted with cotton cellulose in the form of print cloth by a pad-dry-cure process involving a base such as sodium carbonate. Relatively low levels of reaction were achieved with this reagent (less than 10% add-on). Conditioned wrinkle recovery angles of the fabric and structural features of the cross links and reagent residues in the cotton cellulose modified with tris(2-chloroethyl)phosphoramide are compared with those of cotton cellulose modified with tris(1-aziridinyl)phosphine oxide.
The Thermodynamics of Sorption of Three Direct-Dye Mixtures on Cellulose
Authors: Porter John J. , Perkins Warren S. , Limb Yum
Published: March 2007

The equilibrium absorption of binary mixtures of Direct Red 2, Direct Blue 8, and Direct Yellow 12 by cellulose film has been studied, and a correlation between single and mixture dyeing is presented.

In each case, the competition of the dyes for available surface area suppressed the sorption. In some cases, evidence was obtained of interaction of the dyes in solution. When this occurred, it was difficult to define quantitatively the com petition of the dyes for available surface area. All of the results correlated with the degree of interaction in solution, as measured by transmission studies made at 90°C.

The data are interpreted in terms of a Langmuir equation which has been modified to take into consideration the compe tition of two dyes for available surface area.
An Improved Method for the Rapid Determination of the Residual Grease on Scoured Wool
Authors: Samson A.
Published: March 2007

In an investigation of the W.I.R.A. rapid grease-extraction apparatus, it was found that up to 20% of the methylene chloride extract of scoured wool could evaporate away at the heater mantle. This loss and others contributed to the low, and erratic results usually obtained when using the W.I.R.A. apparatus with scoured wool.

An improved instrument (R5) has been devised with features which reduce or eliminate the main faults of the W.I.R.A. apparatus.

The experimental investigations consisted of the extraction (with methylene chloride) of residual wool grease from scoured wool. Using four types of wool having residual wool-grease contents in the range 0.3-7%, the percent extrac tion from the Soxhlet, R5, and W.I.R.A. instruments have been compared. Highly significant linear relationships were found between the extract amounts from the R5 and Soxhlet apparatuses. The R5 instrument is sufficiently sensitive to distinguish between small discrepancies in residual wool grease found on different sections of a tuft of scoured wool.
A Degradation Study of Some Formaldehyde-Modified, Celluloses
Authors: Gilbert S.M. , Smith B.F.
Published: March 2007

The chemical and physical properties of cotton fabrics treated with formaldehyde in the presence of an acid catalyst (HCl) under aqueous (Form W) and essentially nonaqueous (Form D) conditions were investigated. Physical properties (tear strength, breaking strength, and crease recovery), functional group content (acid, aldehyde, and ketone), and chain length of the samples were determined. Results indicated that acid degradation was responsible for the major part of the strength loss in the samples treated under aqueous conditions. Under essentially nonaqueous conditions, the majority of the strength loss was due to the cross links. Accessibility of the cross-linked cotton to a swelling agent was also deter mined and the following results were obtained: control, acid control > Form W>>Form D.
Biological Degradation of ,Tamarind Kernel Paste Used in Jute Warp Sizing
Authors: Datta Rekha , Basu S.N.
Published: March 2007

A study was carried out on the causes of liquefaction of tamarind kernel (TK) paste used in jute warp sizing. Mill- decomposed pastes, added as inocula to fresh paste, strongly liquefied the latter under aerobic as well as crudely anaerobic conditions. Aerobic bacteria isolated from mill pastes were mostly unable to liquefy, either singly or jointly. On the other hand, 9 of the 11 fungal species tested (some isolated from mill pastes) caused strong liquefaction. The enzymes in the crude filtrates of some of these liquefied TK paste at a faster rate than mineral acids at boil. In laboratory experi ments simulating mill conditions of sizing, these results were generally confirmed, fungal action being much stronger than bacterial. Aspergillus fumigatus and its enzyme were the most potent. Accumulated fungal enzymes appear to be the chief cause of liquefaction in mills. While the strongly liquefying fungi could be inhibited by small doses of common antiseptics, these had little effect on their enzymes. Sodium sulfide at 0.16% concentration inhibited all these enzymes.
Cross-Linking of Cotton Cellulose with Ethylene Urea Derivatives Having Varying Hydrogen-Bonding Capabilities
Authors: Stevens C.V. , Smith B.F.
Published: March 2007

Cotton print cloth was reacted with 1, 3-bis (hydroxymethyl)-2-imidazolidinone (dimethylol ethylene urea) and with several modifications of this compound which had varying hydrogen-bonding capabilities but were still capable of cross-linking the cellulose. Reactions were carried out in two solvent systems, water and dimethylformamide, using Zn (NO3)2.6H2O as the catalyst. Add-ons of the cross-linking agents and changes in the physical properties of the treated fabrics were determined. Infrared spectra of the treated fabrics were obtained and infrared bands characteristic of the hydrogen-bonded structure of cellulose were studied and used to qualitatively suggest changes in that structure. It appears that hydrogen bonding of the cellulose with substituents on the resin is not significant in producing changes in the physical properties, including resiliency, of cross-linked cotton. The reactivity of these resins and the type of bond formed with the cellulose system (intra- or inter-molecular) seem to be the major causes of differences in physical properties of the treated fabrics.
Use of the Scanning Electron Microscope in a Study of the Abrasive Properties of Textile Yarns
Authors: Egerton G.S. , Fisher K.M.
Published: March 2007

The effect of various factors, such as the nature of the fiber and the titanium dioxide content, on the abrasive properties of textile yarns has been studied, using a scanning electron microscope. Polyamide and polyester continuous filament yarns produce regular grooves on the surface of knitting needles, but cellulosic yarns give rise to much smoother areas of wear, with some striations. The effect of titanium dioxide on the abrasive properties of the yarn is marked with polyamide yarns, but less significant with the other textile fibers.
A Ballistic Determination of the Toughness of Wool Staples
Authors: Samson A. , White M.A.
Published: March 2007

A pendulum-type ballistic tester has been devised to measure the toughness of staples of wool. Using staples of varying tenderness from several types of wool, high correlations were found for the two sets of toughness values (and their ranking) obtained from the ballistic and a tensile testing machine. This and the ease and rapidity of the ballistic determination of the toughness of wool suggest its possible uses in the assessment of the quality of wool, in quality control work, and where the dynamic strength of wool for processing and end use is required.
Formation and Characterization of Potassium Cellulosates
Authors: Bredereck K. , Weigmann H.-D. , Rebenfeld L.
Published: March 2007

Potassium cellulosates of rayon fibers were formed by means of an exchange reaction between preswollen rayon yarns and potassium methoxide in anhydrous methanol. Degree of substitution (DS) values up to one are achieved by control of the potassium methoxide concentration, and the reaction is complete in about 5 min at room temperature. Significantly higher DS values are obtained at any given potassium methoxide concentration by the use of such cosolvents as dimethyl sulfoxide and pyridine. Analytical studies indicate that at least 80-90% of the bound potassium is in the form of a true cellulosate. The exchange reaction used to form the cellulosate does not lead to chemical degradation of the cellulose, as determined from intrinsic viscosity and mechanical properties measurements. The potassium cellulosates are highly reactive intermediates for the preparation of cellulose derivatives, and act as initiators for the anionic graft polymeriza tion of vinyl monomers.
Investment Behavior in the United States Textile Industry
Authors: Winn Marilyn , Dardis Rachel
Published: March 2007

Investment behavior in the United States textile industry in the postwar period was examined. In addition to the influence of liquidity restraints, the two main components of investment—investment for expansion and investment for replacement or modernization—were considered. Both cross-section and time series data were utilized. The results for time series data confirmed the hypothesis that capital-labor substitution was an important determinant of investment. Result for both cross-section and time series analyses indicated that depreciation expense, either by itself or in conjunc tion with cash flow, had a significant influence on investment. The importance of liquidity constraints indicates that government policies affecting the availability of funds to the textile industry are likely to have a significant im pact on investment decisions.
Sulfation of Wool as a Dye-Resist Process
Authors: Maclaren J.A. , Kilpatrick D.J.
Published: March 2007

Treatment of wool fabric for short periods at 3° and 21° with concentrated sulfuric acid confers on the fabric a marked resist to some acid dyes. By controlling the sulfation conditions, the accompanying loss in strength is minimized. This resist is stable to prolonged boiling in the dyebath and to acid and alkali.
Electron-Microscope Study of Cotton Treated with Inter- and Intracrystalline Swelling Agents
Authors: Betrabet Shridhar M. , Rollins Mary L.
Published: March 2007

Electron micrographs are presented of cotton cellulose treated with aqueous solutions of the inter- and intracrystalline swelling agents, morpholine, piperidine, piperazine, ethylenediamine, and zinc chloride. The concentration of each swelling agent was such as to produce maximum recoverable swelling of cotton cellulose. Physical and fine-structure characteristics of these treated cottons, after complete removal of the swelling agent, revealed that morpholine and piperidine are intercrystalline and piperazine, ethylenediamine, and zinc chloride are intracrystalline swelling agents. Thisw as confirmed by electron-microscope determination of microfibrillar morphology and dimensions. The layer-expansion technique was used to examine these treated cottons along with samples that had been treated with sodium hydroxide and phosphoric and sulfuric acids. The electron micrographs revealed marked gradation in swollen and decrystallized cottons, which may serve as a visual scale at the microfibrillar level for cotton decrystallized to varying degrees. To confirm the extent to which the morphology of decrystallized cotton observed by the layer-expansion technique really exists in the swollen state before the removal of the swelling agent, the cottons treated with sodium hydroxide, morpholine, zinc chloride, and sulfuric acid were embedded in glycol methacrylate in the swollen state and the ultrathin cross sections of these were examined.
Influence of Fiber Geometry on the Mechanical Properties of Assemblies During Processing
Authors: Scardino Francis L. , Goswami Bhuvenesh C. , Lyons W. James
Published: March 2007

Sixteen samples of polyester-rayon blends, as well as a 100% rayon, and eight 100% polyester samples have been processed on the worsted system from raw stock through the 3rd pin-drafting stage. The blends in which 3-in. (nominal) staple was used were 65% polyester and 35% viscose rayon. The polyester samples provided all combinations of the following fiber variables, each represented by two contrasting levels: (a) surface roughness, (b) cross-sectional shape, (c) linear density, and (d) crimp. A single rayon sample of 3-den, bright, crimped staple was used in the blends.

The total of 25 sliver samples from the card and first and third pin-drafting stages were evaluated for static-cohesion properties, as represented by maximum cohesive tenacity, textile modulus, and extension to maximum force. It was found that, generally, in blended slivers from all three stages of processing, fiber crimp in the polyester component had a statistically very significant effect on the three parameters measured. The rayon in the blends seemed to have little or no effect on the values of the parameters, as judged by comparison of these with corresponding values for the 100% polyester slivers.

Measurements on the slivers showed slightly better evenness in the blended slivers containing the crimped polyester fibers than in those containing the samples without crimp. Blending of the rayon with the polyester samples was found to produce no significant differences in evenness.
Thermal Investigation of Diethylaminoethyl-Substituted Cotton Celluloses
Authors: Hobart Stanley R. , Berni Ralph J. , Mack Charles H.
Published: March 2007

The thermal behavior of diethylaminoethyl-substituted cotton celluloses was examined by thermogravimetric analysis, differential thermal analysis, and differential scanning calorimetry. Samples at levels up to 10% substituent content (prepared via an anhydrous sodium cellulosate method) were compared with other samples prepared by the conventional aqueous sodium hydroxide method. All thermal analyses were carried out in purified dry nitrogen or high vacuum at heating rates of 5-40°C/min. Considerable variation was observed when the samples in the base form were compared with those placed in the salt (hydrochloride) form. The effect of basic diethylaminoethyl groups on the cellulosic thermal degradation was shown in altered thermal patterns and Δ H of pyrolysis. In the hydrochloride form, lower Δ H of pyrolysis and decreased decomposition temperature were observed. These observations together with other minor thermal effects which were found to be associated with the decomposition, are compared with recent studies on the effect of inorganic bases on the pyrolysis of cotton cellulose.
Reactive Dyes for Wool
Authors: Seshadri S. , Mani K.V.S.
Published: March 2007

The bromine atom in an o-bromo- o'-hydroxyazo dye has been found to react with wool in the presence of copper sulfate. Several reactive dyes of this type for wool have been prepared. The extent of reaction with the fiber has been studied. These dyes do not react with silk or nylon. The lightfastness of the dyeings on wool and nylon has been studied and found to be poor.
Variation of Woven Fabric Length and Thickness with Regain
Authors: Stuart I.M.
Published: March 2007

A theory of the hygral expansion of simple woven fabrics is proposed, based on Olofsson's theory of woven fabric struc ture. Hygral expansion is seen as the result of the competing effects of yarn swelling, yarn compression, and yarn curvi linear length extension with regain.

Early attempts by the author to reconcile theoretical predictions with experimental data showed that it was necessary to suppose a yarn curvilinear-length expansion with regain in excess of that expected from the straightforward contribution from the fiber longitudinal expansion with regain.

Taking into account measured yarn curvilinear expansion, which was found to be of the order of 3-4% dry-to-wet, a fair qualitative agreement of theory and experiment is obtained for unset fabrics. There is disagreement in the case of set fabrics below normal regain, which could be attributed to separation of the cross yarns.

The fabrics are set wet and, as the yarns dry out and are affected by hygral "contraction," they could separate.
Physical Properties of Cotton Treated by Pad-Dry-Cure, Mild-Cure, Poly-Set, and Wet-Fix Processes
Authors: Grant James N. , Andrews Frederick R. , Weiss Louis C.
Published: March 2007

This study was directed primarily at the physical property changes in fibers, yarns and fabrics as smooth drying proper ties are developed in cotton by pad-dry-cure, mild-cure, poly-set and wet-fix processes. Bound nitrogen differed appre ciably in the final products, the maximum nitrogen being required in the wet-fix and the minimum in the poly-set cottons. Compared to pad-dry-cure cottons, tensile properties change more rapidly with bound nitrogen during the initial reaction periods for poly-set and wet-fix cottons and in the final reaction period for mild-cure cottons. Tenacity of single fibers had larger differences at the maximum levels of reaction than did those of the yarns or fabrics. In dual step processes, poly-set and wet-fix, strength decreased with each step. Recovery from tensile strain in single fibers was inversely related to retained strength, the wet-fix cottons had the smallest strength loss and the smallest increase in recovery. Incon sistencies between crease recovery for fabrics and strain recovery for fibers indicate that fiber properties other than strain recovery are affecting crease recovery and smooth-drying of fabrics.
The Effect of the Solvent on the Iodination of a Tyrosine Derivative and its Relation to the Iodination of Wool
Authors: Dowling L.M. , Crewther W.G.
Published: March 2007

A study was made of the rate and extent of reaction of N-acetyltyrosine ethyl ester with iodine, using ethanol, n- propanol, and n-butanol as solvents. In anhydrous ethanol, the reaction became extremely slow when about one-third of the tyrosine had been iodinated. In anhydrous propanol, less than 10% of the tyrosine was iodinated after prolonged treatment. In anhydrous n-butanol, the loss of tyrosine was barely detectable. Addition of traces of water to the solvent increased the rate and extent of iodination in all three solvents. The addition of anhydrous NaOH to the anhydrous alcohols caused marginal increases in iodination, but larger increases were observed in the presence of traces of water. The tyrosine residues were found to be iodinated to about the same extent in the high-sulfur and low-sulfur protein fractions extracted from wool which had been treated for 15 days at 30°C with 0.39 M I 2 in anhydrous n-propanol. The data are discussed in relation to the use of measurements of wool iodination to indicate penetration of the solvent in to the fiber.
Bending Stiffness Factors in Conjugate Fiber Crimp
Authors: Brand R.H.
Published: March 2007

A bending moment induced by differential length changes is the physical basis for crimp in conjugate fibers. There fore, effects of cross-sectional shapes and component distributions on crimp can be estimated from considerations of mechanical principles governing the bending of rods or beams. Indices of these effects are defined as (a) stiffness of components relative to an axis perpendicular to the line between component area centroids and (b) angular deviation of this line from the cross-section principal moment of inertia axis. Regression analysis of experimental data shows these indices are statistically significant factors in bicomponent fiber crimp.
The Tensile Behavior of Woven Fabrics at Low and High Strain Rates
Authors: Skelton J. , Freeston W.D.
Published: March 2007

Measurements of the breaking load of woven nylon and Dacron tapes at low and high strain rates showed that the tape strength is reduced at high pick densities and at a particular low pick density; the former was shown to be related to the high level of frictional restraints in the closely woven fabrics, while the latter is associated with the unique geometrical con figuration of the yarn filaments in the particular structure.

The effect of various finishing treatments on the strength and the efficiency of translation of yarn strength to fabric strength was studied. The strength of the tapes is greater at high strain rates than at low strain rates for both materials. It was shown that the tapes are very efficient structures (>90%) under all test conditions. For medium pick densities. the efficiency approaches 100% and, under these circumstances, the effect of finishing treatments is minimized. In general, however, the loomstate tapes are strongest, with scouring causing a slight loss in strength, which is almost com pletely restored on treatment with silicone finish.

Particular care is needed to carry out tensile tests on tapes at high strain rates, and a method was evolved for testing deliberately weakened specimens in order to avoid jaw breaks. In addition, a new variable radius-of-curvature capstan jaw was developed, which permits the attachment of tapes to other members such that the full potential strength of the tape is realized. It is suggested that a practical routine fastening system could be developed on the basis of the jaw design.
Length of the Methylene Bridges in Cellulose Formals Determined by 18O Tagging and by Other Methods
Authors: Guthrie John D. , Heinzelman Dorothy C.
Published: March 2007

Cellulose formals cellulose-O(CH 2O) n-cellulose were made by reacting purified cotton yarn with formaldehyde in the presence of H218O. Average values for n were determined from the ratio of excess 18O in the formals to formaldehyde bi- functionally attached to the cellulose. Values of n ranging from 1.3 to 3.2 were obtained, depending on the reaction con ditions. The lower values of n were obtained at the lower formaldehyde concentrations, shorter reaction times, and elevated temperatures. A cellulose formal was made also by reacting cotton with the potassium salt of methylenedisul furic acid in the presence of H 218O and NaOH; its average n value was about 1.6. The n values obtained were compared with previously reported values obtained by determining the ratio of weight loss to formaldehyde loss when foremaldehyde was removed by exposure of the formals to moist HCl vapor and also with values obtained by H. Zollinger by permethyl ation, hydrolysis, and gas chromatography.
Oily Soil Retention by Abraded Durable Press Fabrics
Authors: Huisman Mary Ann , Morris Mary Ann
Published: March 2007

A study was made of the effect of abrasion on the retention of oily soil by cotton and polyester/cotton durable press fabrics. One set of samples was abraded in the Accelerotor, and the other set was abraded by laundering. The abraded fabrics were then soiled with a radioactive labeled oily soil and laundered for a total of ten treatments.

Samples abraded in the Accelerotor to a weight loss of approximately 20% had soil retention properties significantly different from the controls or samples that had received milder abrasive treatments. The severely abraded cotton samples showed a decrease, while the blend samples showed an increase in the amount of the 3H fraction of the soil retained.