bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
The Combination of Wool with Acids–a Quantitative Interpretation in terms of the Donnan Theory of Membrane Equilibrium*
Authors: PETERS L. , SPEAKMAN J. B.
Published: July 2010

A quantitative interpretation of the combination of wool with hydrochloric aoid, sulphuric acid, and hydrochloric acid in presence of different concentrations of potassium chloride has been obtained in terms of the Donnan theory of membrane equilibrium. The course of combination is determined by the pH inside the fibre, which can be calculated although it is incapable of direct measurement. When the amount of combined acid is plotted as a function of the “internal” pH, the mid–point of the titration curve is found to lie between pH 4. 15 and 4. 35 in the case of hydrochloric acid, as would be expected if combination were due to back–titration of the carboxyl groups of salt linkages. Similarly, in the case of sulphuric acid the mid–point is at pH 4. 45, and the unification of the hydrochlorio acid and sulphuric acid titration curves, as well as the agreement between the observed and expected pK values, affords strong evidence in support of the Donnan theory. In addition, it has been shown that the curves obtained by titrating wool with hydrochloric acid in presence and absence of potassium chloride, the amounts of potassium chloride being sufficient to give a constant chloride ion concentration, are unified when the amounts of combined acid are plotted against the calculated “internal” pH values. The Donnan theory also provides a precise interpretation of the manner in which the pH corresponding to half–maximum combination with acid varies with changing salt concentration.
The Treatment of Wool with Acid Permanganate Solutions
Authors: ALEXANDER P. , CARTER D. , HUDSON R. F.
Published: July 2010

It is shown that wool can be rendered non–felting by treatment with dilute solutions of permanganate at a pH < 2, and the optimum conditions for treatment are described. Wool treated in this way does not felt when left even for very long periods in a washing machine, but felts as much as untreated wool when exposed to a milling action. Wool which has received prolonged permanganate oxidation treatment acquires some resistance to felting in a mill. Permanganate–treated wool shows no resistance to felting when washed in acid in a washing machine or a mill. The implications of these results for the theory of felting are discussed.

The damage done to tho wool by permanganate treatment is slight and has been assessed in a number of different ways. The nature of the reaction has been studied from an analytical and a kinetic viewpoint, and it is shown that the chief reaction is an oxidation of the disulphide bond, the rate being controlled by diffusion.

There is a fundamental difference between the actions of acid and alkaline permanganate. A secondary reaction with tyrosine is responsible for the yellowing of the wool. The yellow complex is shown to behave as an indicator.
Rate of Dyeing as an Aid to the Classification of Direct Dyes on Viscose Rayon
Authors: ARMFIELD W.
Published: July 2010

Rate‐of‐dyeing experiments are described with direct dyes on viscose rayon yarn. Sodium chloride is added gradually to the dye liquors, at a constant rate throughout the whole dyeing time of two hours. The measured dye absorption is plotted against time of dyeing. This method of salting is comparable with works practice, and gives rate‐of‐dyeing curves very different from those obtained by making the electrolyte addition at the start of dyeing, a procedure not used commercially.

These rate‐of‐dyeing measurements show that dyes cannot be classified satisfactorily by rate of dyeing alone, but that, once dyes have been separated into classes according to their levelling and salting behaviour, rate‐of‐dyeing measurements then provide a means of further refinement. Eighteen Class B dyes tested Bhow that rate‐of‐dyeing measurements provide a means of predicting the cqmpatibility of the dyes in admixture.

From the rate‐of‐dyeing curves, the time in minutes is read off corresponding to one‐quarter, one‐half, and three‐quarters of the final exhaustion value E for each dye. These times are tabulated under the headings t0.25, t0.50, t0.75, and indicate numerically the dyeing rate of adye. The degree of compatibility of two or more dyes is assessed by comparing t0.25, t0.50, t0.75, for each dye. Any single time of dyeing is not sufficient to indicate rate of dyeing, since two dyes may have the same dyeing time at any one point on the curve, but they may not necessarily agree at other points.
A Direct–reading Photoelectric Spectrophotometer
Authors: DAVENPORT T. B.
Published: July 2010

A non–recording photoelectric spectrophotometer suitable for reflectance measurements over the spectral range 4000–6500 A. is described. The instrument is compact and accurate, operates from A. C. mains, and is simple to use.
The Analysis of Commercial Hydrosulphites and Related Compounds by Polarographic Methods
Authors: FURNESS W.
Published: July 2010

The application of polarography to the analysis of hydrosulphites is discussed. The method outlined for the determination of hydrosulphite is shown to be more specific than some commonly used chemical methods, but the probable relative error is about 1%. Procedures for the polarographic determination of thiosulphate, sulphide, and trithionate in the presence of sodium hydrosulphite are also described, and the respective merits of the polarographic and ohemical methods are compared.

Polarographic methods serve also for the identification of the formaldehyde– and the acetaldehyde–sulphoxylates.
Some Effects of the Evaporation of Water from Cotton Cellulose
Authors: BONE W. A. , TURNER H. A.
Published: July 2010

Experiments with purified cellulose, air, and water indicate that an increased activity of the system is shown at the so–called “water–line”. This is the narrow boundary region between wet and dry cloth which is formed when the lower end of a strip of bleached cotton fabric is dipped in water. Evidence is brought forward to show that the cotton cellulose is modified to give two distinct types of product– (a) one, soluble and transportable in water, brown in colour, markedly fluorescent in ultra–violet radiation, with enhanced reducing properties; (b) the other, solid, non–transportable in water, restricted to the boundary region, with higher cuprammonium fluidity and Methylene Blue absorption than the original cellulose. The action is not originated, nor does it seem to be greatly affected, by light energy. Wide variations in the partial pressure of oxygen in the surrounding atmosphere cause little change in the apparent intensity of the brown line.
The Reaction of Wool with Organic Chloroamines II—The Nature of the Reaction
Authors: Alexander P. , Cartbr D. , Earland C.
Published: July 2010

It is shown that chloroamines can oxidize wool by two different mechanisms, although in neither case does reaction occur via the intermediary of free chlorine in solution. Only one of the reactions renders wool non‐felting, and it is favoured by the presence of chloride ions in solution and by increasing the electronegativity of the group adjacent to the reactive > NCI group. Amino acid analyses of treated wool and reaction with model substances show that the disulphide bond is equally readily oxidized by both mechanisms, although they differ in their reaction with tyrosine, which, it is suggested, must be oxidized for the production of non‐felting wool by surface degradation.
Progress of Package Dyeing with Vat Dyes and Indigosols
Authors: Smith Fred
Published: July 2010

Hot‐dyeing vat dyes strike on to the fibre very quickly even at low temperatures. With open‐beck dyeing on hanks, small lots only could be dyed with any success. On cotton in hank or on properly wound cones, cheeses, or beams, package dyeing enables the dyer to put the dye liquor where it is required more quickly and more evenly and produce a good result without the use of retarding or levelling agents. Should there be any slight fault in the build of the package, faulty dyeing will be the result. Higher temperatures up to 200d̀ F., with dyes that will stand them, will sometimes overcome these faults. It is safer to use a suitable retarding agent from the start. The same remarks apply to the dyes of Classes B and C that strike very quickly.

The introduction of stainless steel machines has led to greater use of the package system.

Large weights of cotton yarn are now dyed in one batch with vat dyes, up to 2000 1b. suitable for casements, denims, gaberdines, etc.

Loose Fibro and Fibro yarns and sliver are now being dyed satisfactorily in some cases by the ordinary method, in others by the use of pigment padding, the Abbot‐Cox process, or the improved pigment process using special finely ground dyes.

The use of vat dyes other than indigo, thioindigo, Soledons, or Indigosols is not practicable to any great extent on wool.

The introduction of the various retarding and levelling agents and research into the rate of dyeing of vat dyes has extended the use of package‐dyed yarns.
The Application of Direct Dyes to Viscose Rayon Yarn and Staple
Authors: Boulton J.
Published: July 2010

Dyeing theory has been very largely worked out on the basis of regenerated cellulose substrate and direct dye. Improvements in the dyeing of viscose rayon have followed closely developments in fundamental understanding of the dyeing process.

This paper gives the history of the dyeing process with direct dyes, a comprehensive survey of the theory, and a statement of the best modern practice with respect to yarn and fibre dyeing. The objects have been to make dyeing theory intelligible to those responsible for dyehouse work and further to relate it to recommended dyeing practices.

A section is devoted to future trends in dyeing practice and to outstanding requirements for new dyes.
Studies in the Fundamental Processes of Textile Printing
Authors: Borai A. M. A. El , Turner H. A.
Published: July 2010

The transfer during steaming of a selected range of the sodium sulphuric esters of leuco vat dyes from a film of starch to an attached film of regenerated cellulose has been studied. Curves relating time of steaming with dye transferred suggest that this transfer is a complicated process. Additions of assistants, such as alkali‐metal carbonates or sodium N‐benzylsulphanilate, may cause marked changes in the course of the dye transfer. An explanation is put forward which relates the behaviour of the Indigosols in part with the behaviour of some acid dyes which are suitable for printing on regenerated cellulose and in part with the decomposition of the Indigosol as steaming proceeds.
Some Aspects of the Drying and Heating of Textiles
Authors: Preston J. M. , Bennett A.
Published: July 2010

Migration which occurs during drying has been studied for different textile materials and different moisture contents. The greater the moisture content the more marked is the migration, and there is a characteristic lower limit at which it ceases.
The Combination of Wool with Acid Dyes
Authors: Chamberlain N. H. , Listee G. H.
Published: July 2010

An automatic photometer for measuring the rate of absorption of dyes from solutions of constant concentration is described, and its use illustrated. It is shown that photometric control of dye concentration in solutions of free dye acids and at pH below approx. 3.5 is not feasible, owing to hydrolysis of the wool sample by the dye liquor; alternative means of control by electrical conductivity are described. When the correct means of control are applied, the sensitivity and accuracy of the apparatus, and hence the reproducibility of the results obtained, are of a high order.

A new type of D.C. amplifier circuit is incorporated in the photometer, which can be almost perfectly stabilised towards variations in the mains Bupply voltage, without the use of constant‐voltage transformers or other external voltage‐regulating devices.
The Colour of Organic Compounds IV—Indigo and Related Dyes*
Authors: Knott E. B.
Published: July 2010

It is shown that the application to the indigo molecule of known colour rules, particularly the general rule given by the author1, leads to the expectation of a deep colour. Various isomers, analogues, and derivatives of indigo and thioindigo are similarly examined, and their colour is explained on a qualitative basis.
Preparation and Properties of Regenerated Cellulose containing Vinyl Polymers
Authors: Landells G. , Whewell C. S.
Published: July 2010

Using thermal and free‐radical polymerisation techniques, conditions have been worked out for the deposition in considerable quantities, inside cellulosic fibres, of vinyl polymers derived from monomers both readily soluble and almost insoluble in the aqueous reaction medium.
The Action of β‐Propiolactone on Wool
Authors: Feaenley C. , Speakman J. B.
Published: July 2010

There is little reaction between dry wool and β‐propiolactone when the latter is dissolved in anhydrous benzene, but reaction is vigorous in alcoholic solution at 50d̀c. Combination is not confined to the basic side‐chains of salt linkages, though 50% of the latter are broken during 48 hours' treatment. As the resistance of the fibres to deformation in water and acid is reduced, it was expected that treated fabric would show an increased rate of shrinkage during milling, especially as the percentage hysteresis between extension and contraction is reduced. Little difference could, however, be detected between treated and untreated fabrics during milling with soap or acid, and the felting power of loose wool is reduced by treatment with the lactone, probably because the beneficial effects of modified elastic properties are offset by reduced sealiness of the fibres.
The Influence of Particle Size on the Dyeing Properties of Vat Dyes
Authors: Flanagan T.
Published: July 2010

An attempt has been made to assess the importance of the particle size of commercial vat dyes as a factor influencing level dyeing, when using the padding technique in dyeing viscose rayon cakes. A number of dyes have been subjected to the Hampson filtration test and classified according to particle size. A similar classification has been based on filtration of dye from the padding liquor during the actual dyeing process. A fair degree of correlation between the two methods has been established. Some factors affecting the filtration properties of the vat dyes have been investigated.

The classification of dyes according to particle size has been compared with actual dyeing results. It has been found that in the case of dyes with a high rate of strike and poor levelling properties some advantage is obtained by virtue of the more, level pigmentation which results from the use of dyes of small particle size. In general, however, it is concluded that particle size is not a major factor affecting the dyeing of viscose rayon cakes with vat dyes, and that a more important part is played by the migration of the leuoo vat dye. This migration is promoted by dyeing at elevated temperatures, and with many dyes is influenced by the concentration of Dispersol VL.
Observations on some Commercial Colour‐matching Lamps
Authors: Gutherie J. C. , Oliver P. H.
Published: July 2010

Four commercial colour‐matching lamps of the fluorescent‐tube type have been considered. Differences exist between the lamps and Illuminant C, and also lesser differences between the lamps themselves. Samples vary in hue from lamp to lamp, but no serious discrepancies have been found in colour matching: i.e. a match under one lamp is usually a match under one of the others, Since in a large, number of cases the dyeing has been found to have a similar spectral curve to the pattern. Daylight, is very variable, and it is doubtful whether a single standard colour‐matching lamp would he advisable.
The Printing Efficiency of Vat Dyes
Authors: Michie A. G. H. , Thornton R.
Published: July 2010

A method of assessing vat‐dye prints has been established involving determination of the amount of dye applied to a cotton fabric by a roller printing technique, and the amount fixed at various stages during the afterprinting processes. By extracting the vat dye from the fabric and determining optically the amount present in a given area it is possible to calculate the percentage dye fixation under a variety of conditions.

This method of assessment was used initially to study a range of seventeen vat dyes, applied by the potassium carbonate‐Formosul process under conditions of varying Formosul concentration in the print paste, varying steaming times, and varying depths of shade. Later the effect of using different alkalis at various concentrations was studied, and also the effect of the addition of glycerol and of different thickening agents.

The predominant feature which emerged was the marked difference between the dyes in sensitivity to the Formosul concentration in the print paste. The dyes varied from those showing little change in percentage fixation, despite large variations in the amount of Formosul present, to those requiring a “threshold” concentration for adequate fixation, while a final group showed the threshold effect and was also susceptible to over‐reduction at still higher concentrations. It is apparent, therefore, that the instability of Formosul gives rise to the bulk of troubles experienced in printing vat dyes, since, provided the required amount of Formosul was added to the print paste and remained on the print up to the time of steaming, all vat dyes could be satisfactorily printed.

Varying the thickening agent did not affect the amount of print paste applied to the fabric nor the percentage dye fixation, though marked visual differences were apparent. Caustic soda was shown to be a more efficient alkali than potassium or sodium carbonate, giving both increased percentage fixation and increased rate of fixation. The addition of glycerol had the greatest effect when the steaming times were short.

A preliminary study of the pad‐steam prooess showed a general decrease in the sensitivity of the dyes to the amount of Formosul present on the prints. The basic underlying principles were the same, however, since the order of “printability” was the same for both the pad‐steam and the potassium carbonate‐Formosul process.
Dye Transfer in Dyeing and Printing
Authors: Myers G. D. , Turner H. A.
Published: July 2010

The results obtained in the study of dye transfer from thickener to fibre‐substance, during steaming, for a number of different classes of dyes, have been compared with the results of parallel work on dyeing in order to demonstrate the essential similarity of the two methods of coloration.
The Dyeing of a Blend of Wool and Fibrolane for the Hand Knitting Trade
Authors: Cheetham R. C.
Published: July 2010

The dyeing of a hand knitting yarn consisting of a blend of wool and Fibrolane has been investigated with a view to providing a method of obtaining dyeings of adequate wet fastness and softness of handle.

Preliminary work on separate fibres showed the effect of acid solutions as used in normal wool‐dyeing methods on Fibrolane, and indicated the necessity of employing modified dyeing techniques if degradation of the fibre were to be avoided. It was found that pH control, and to a lesser degree temperature control, were essential, and as far as possible dyeing should be conducted at pH 4.0, using buffered solutions for the purpose; under these conditions imbibition by Fibrolane of water from acid solutions is at a minimum.

Rate‐of‐dyeing curves for Fibrolane, wool, and a blend of the two, at various pH values between 2.0 and 7.0, show that Fibrolane has a high initial rate of absorption of dye at the lower pH values in this range; in a dyebath at pH 4.0 the absorption of acid is such that the final pH approaches neutral where acid is used alone, but with buffered acid solutions the pH can be stabilised much more readily, and remains about pH 4.0.

Dyeing at pH 4.0 is most effectively conducted with a buffered solution based on an acid with a pKa value around 4, e.g. lactic, formic, or acetic acid.

It was found necessary to use aggregated acid dyes to obtain the requisite wet fastness, which remained satisfactory with the modified method. Suggestions are made for assisting level dyeing.
Some Aspects of the Drying and Heating of Textiles
Authors: Preston J. M. , Nimkar M. V.
Published: July 2010

Modifications produced by heat and moisture in cellulose acetate fibres are described. These are similar to those described for other fibres in earlier papers. There is an optimum moisture content for the maximum modification on heating. The action of the moisture in the presence of heat indicates that it plasticises the substance of the fibres.
PUBLICATIONS SPONSORED BY THE SOCIETY'S FASTNESS TESTS CO‐ORDINATING COMMITTEE–X: The Development of the Geometric Staining Scale
Authors: McLaren K.
Published: July 2010

The various methods which have been proposed in different countries for evaluating the degree of staining of adjacent undyed material in fastness tests are reviewed. The most recent proposal, the geometrie staining scale, is now being studied in several different countries and may become internationally accepted.
Polymerisation of a Series of Vinyl Monomers in Wool
Authors: Boardman N. K. , Lipson M.
Published: July 2010

A series of acrylates and methacrylates were polymerised in wool by free‐radical initiation from aqueous methyl alcohol. A direct relationship was observed between the hardness of the polymer and its effect on the elastic properties of single fibres; the harder polymers increase the work of extension, whilst the softer polymers decrease it. Some surface deposition occurs and increases the frictional properties of the fibres, again in correlation with the hardness of the polymer. Polymethyl methacrylate gives a satisfactory degree of washing shrinkage control, but large quantities are required; the effect is probably due mainly to surface deposition of excess of polymer.
Proceedings of the Society: The Textile Trade and the Newer Fibres
Authors: Clayton F. H.
Published: July 2010

The three main phases of growth of the textile industry are considered.

The world consumption of all fibres is still increasing, but the use of man‐made fibres is increasing much more rapidly than that of the natural fibres.

The properties of the synthetic fibres are summarised and some end‐uses for which they are suitable. When we know what properties are required for satisfactory service for all the various end‐uses, then by skilful fabric design we shall be able to make even better textile articles than we have been used to so far.
The Heat Setting of Terylene Polyester Filament Fabrics in Relation to Dyeing and Finishing
Authors: Marvin D. N.
Published: July 2010

The dry heat setting of Terylene filament fabrics is considered in relation to dimensiond Stability, wet creasing, stiffness and recovery from dry creasing, and dyeing properties. The effects of aqueous heat are also discussed. Setting machines are described, and the setting conditions for Terylene fabrics outlincd.
The Dyeing of Cellulose Acetate with Non‐ionic Dyes
Authors: Majury T. G.
Published: July 2010

The heats of dyeing of five “model” dyes on cellulose acetate have been meeaured. By combining these with the heats of solution and sublimation of the dyes, the absolute heats of association between dyes and substrate may be evaluated. This has been done for the two dyes for which data on heats of sublimation are available; values of the order of ‐ 20 kcal./mole are obtained. The bond energies appear to be chiefly ascribable to interaction between the permanent dipoles of the carbonyl groups in the substrate and permanent or induced dipoles in the dye molecules. There ere indications in the two cases examined that, if intermoleculer hydrogen bonds exist in the dye crystals, then hydrogen bonds may reasonably be postulated also between the dyes and the substrate.
Some Observations on the Histology of Keratin Fibres
Authors: Manogue B. , Moss M. S. , Elliott R. L.
Published: July 2010

Sections of several different wool and hair fibres have been given chemical treatments alleged to isolate the “subcuticle membrane”. The residues consist of parts of the cuticle, cortex, and medulla. The cortex residue is made up of cortical cell nuclei, fibrils, and thin membranes located at the boundaries of the cortical cells. These membranes are more resistant to treatment with sodium hydroxide solution and sodium sulphide solution than the major part of the cells, but are dissolved by proteolytic enzymes. The membranes are probably the material hitherto termed “intercellular cement”.
PUBLICATIONS SPONSORED BY THE FASTNESS TESTS CO‐ORDINATING COMMITTEE'XIV: The Use of Fading Lamps for Determining Light Fastness
Authors: MoLaren K.
Published: July 2010

There are three possible causes of the Significant differences sometimes experienced between fading lamp and daylight fastness figures' spectral composition, temperature, and moisture content. Although there are marked differences between the spectral composition of fading lamps and sunlight, on theoretical grounds these would not appear to be the main cause of large discrepencies. The most likely cause is surface moisture content during exposure, and this depends on surface temperature and on the relative humidity of the surrounding air. It will be necessary to investigate these factors in detail before a specification for fading‐lamp operation can be issued.
The Formation of Polymers in Wool
Authors: Madaras G. W. , Speakman J. B.
Published: July 2010

When potassium persulphate is used in place of hydrogen peroxide, it is unnecessary to impregnate wool with ferrous ammonium sulphate in order to ensure preferential polymerisation of methacrylic acid inside the fibres at 25°c. Polymerisation is initiated by the free radicals which are formed by the action of potassium persulphate on the cystine disulphide bonds. With reduced fibres, however, potassium persulphate is not much more effective than hydrogen peroxide.
Analysis of Textile Auxiliary Products*
Authors: Hoeve J. A. Van Der
Published: July 2010

Since the previous paper 1 not only have a great many new products been marketed, but new groups of products have also been developed, such as the cation‐anion‐active compounds and the polyamides (not proteins). Both these new groups behave in many respects like polyethylene oxide compounds. and consequently are included according to the old system among the aminopolyethylene oxides. It has proved (losirable to subject this latter group to further subdivision. In addition to this, even before the previous paper a number of groups were known which a t the time, owing to lack of samples, had not, got been inclutled in the analytical system, e.g. phosphonium compounds, alkylnaphthalenephosplonates, akylamidoalkgl phosphates, alkylamidoalkanecarboxylates. The separation of tho cation‐activo amirics can now be rontinued much further than was possible at that time. These factors have induced me to reconsider the andysis of textile auxiliary products, and to attemptf to clessify them into a larger number of groups by means of the initial tests.
The Chlorination of Wool at Long Liquor Ratios*
Authors: Earland C. , Raven D. J.
Published: July 2010

It is shown that the effectiveness of Chlorine in acid solution aa an anti‐felting agent for wool is independent of the liquor: wool ratio up to 100,000: 1. It is considered that this is further evidence for concluding that the reaction between wool bnd chloramines is not a simple chlorination.
Affinity Effects during Padding
Authors: Marshall W. J.
Published: July 2010

One‐day Symposium on Continuous Dyeing held by the Manchester Section at the Manchester College of Technology on 19th March 1954, Mr. G. S. J. White in the chair

The advantages and disadvantages of continuous dyeing methods are briefly discussed. A factor of great importance in these processes is the change in colour during the initial period of the run, which makes shade matching and running to shade a matter of considerable skill. This is due to the change in concentration of the pad liquor caused by the affinity of the dye and similar effects. Assuming the simplest possible relations, the magnitude of this change has been calculated, and measurements of a practical system, have shown that this mathematical treatment is adequate to characterise the system. Finally, the practical significance of this work is discussed.
The Affinities of Vat Dyes in Relation to their Constitutions
Authors: Peters R. H. , Sumneb H. H.
Published: July 2010

The affinities of a series of anthraquinone and carbocyclic vat dyes have been determined. The attraction for the fibre appears to arise from two main causes‐ polar or hydrogen bonding and non‐polar or van der Waals forces. The results are analysed in terms of these. It is found that, in a series of related compounds, a relationship exists between the affinity and the van der Waals forces as determined by the extinction coefficients of the dyes.
The Control of Sodium Hydrosulphite in Vat Dyebaths
Authors: MARSHALL W. J.
Published: July 2010

In vat dyebaths, the basic information required for control of the hydrosulphite is the rate at which it must be replaced and the properties of the dye which determine the minimum concentration of hydrosulphite necessary for successful dyeing. For this reason the rate of oxidation of hydrosulphite solutions has been measured over a wide range of conditions, and the results have been related to typical practical systems. The reduction properties of vat dyes are discussed with reference to their reduction potentials, and it is shown that electrometric methods can be satisfactorily applied to dyebath control only in special circumstances. The overriding difficulty is the insensitivity of the electrode to changes in hydrosulphite concentration and the variable speed– always low– with which a steady potential is reached: It is concluded that the most satisfactory method of control depends on an initial quantitative study and thorough understanding of the hydrosulphite requirements of the dyeing system. Methods of measuring hydrosulphite concentration suitable for dyehouse use are briefly described.
The Photochemical Oxidation of Wool in the presence of Fluorescent Compounds
Authors: GRAHAM D. R. , STATHAM K. W.
Published: July 2010

A study has been made of the action of sunlight on wool treated with fluorescent brightening agents. The discoloration which occurs is due to oxidation of the wool and appears to be independent of the fluorescent agent used. There is considerable evidence to show that oxidation of the amino acid tryptophan is the main colour‐producing reaction.
Separation of Some Disperse Dyes by Paper Chromatography
Authors: ELLIOTT K. , TELESZ L. A.
Published: July 2010

A method is described for the qualitative analysis of some disperse dyes on paper using petroleum ether (b.p. 65–70°c.) saturated with 98% methyl alcohol (2% water by volume). The appropriate amount of dye solution is spotted on the paper. After exposure to an atmosphere saturated with eluant vapour, the chromatograms are run overnight at 19–21°c. Details of the method and some Rf values are given in the text.
Relative Stabilities of Metal Derivatives of oo‘‐Dihydroxyazo Dyes
Authors: Snavely Fred A. , Fernelius W. Conard , Douglas Bodie E.
Published: July 2010

The relative stabilities of metal derivatives of 00′‐dihydroxyazo dyes (terdentate groups) have been measured potentiometrically in dioxan‐water (75: 25 by volume). The order of stability of the metal derivatives agrees with that already reported in the literature for monodentate and bidentate groups. The coordinating power of the diarylazo compounds for a given metal is proportional to the acid dissociation constants of the chelating agents. The one 0‐hydroxy‐0′‐carboxyazo dye which has been studied forms less stable metal derivatives than the 00′‐dihydroxyazo dyes and differs from them in coordinating with beryllium.
Applications of Colour Physics to Textiles
Authors: Guthrie J. C. , Oliver P. H.
Published: July 2010

Both additive and subtractive mixing of colours are discussed, leading to the C.I.E. system of colour specification, which is based on three primary colours and additive mixing. Measuring instruments and some types of illuminants are considered. Applications include examples of metameric matches, dichroism, quality control, and some problems in the blending of coloured fibres.
Measurement of Diffusion Coefficients of Azoic Coupling Components (2‐Hydroxy‐3‐naphthanilides) in Cellulose
Authors: DUNN A. S.
Published: July 2010

Though several authors have previously studied the equilibrium sorption properties of the anilides of 2‐hydroxy‐3‐naphthoic acid, no measurements of the diffusion coefficients of these molecules in cellulose have been made. A suitable apparatus is described for measuring the rapid rates of dyeing which occur, using thick cellulose model filaments. Diffusion coefficients and energies of activation for diffusion of six coupling components have been evaluated.
A Critical Appraisal of the International Daylight Fastness Test
Authors: MCLAREN K.
Published: July 2010

The international daylight fastness test has been critically examined to determine its reproducibility and its reliability. Only one variable factor in exposure— the effective humidity— has been found to cause variations in assessment, and this is governed primarily by the proportion of sunlight falling on the pattern during exposure. This causes the assessments of humidity‐sensitive materials to be up to 2 grades higher in sunny countries than in predominantly cloudy regions. This variation can be eliminated only at the expense of the reliability of the result, a solution which cannot be accepted. There is evidence to suggest, however, that the reproducibility of the method would be very good for the majority of fabrics, whose sensitivity to humidity, like that of the standards, is low. The test is a reliable guide to the expected resistance to fading which will occur during use, even of sensitive materials, providing that the daylight test is carried out in the same country as that in which the fabric is to be used or in one whose climate is similar and providing that the fabric does not become wetted during use.
The Dyeing of Cellulose Acetate with Disperse Dyes: VI— Affinities, Heats of Dyeing, and Heats of Solution
Authors: BIRD C. L. , HARRIS Miss P.
Published: July 2010

The partition of disperse dyes between water and cellulose acetate has been studied by means of desorption experiments, and the results have been used to calculate values for affinity, heat of dyeing, and entropy change. Aqueous solubilities have been determined at different temperatures in order to obtain heats of aqueous solution, and values for fibre saturation and heat of solution in the fibre have been calculated.
The Flameproofing of Nylon
Authors: DOUGLAS D. O.
Published: July 2010

Thiourea‐formaldehyde resins can be used to give a non‐infiammable finish both on nylon net and on nylon dyed with chrome dyes. The mechanism of the flameproofing of nylon is discussed. The effects of flameproofing agents and of chrome dyes on the melting point, the viscosity, and the ignition temperature of nylon are examined. In the case of nylon dyed with chrome dyes it is suggested that effective flame‐proofing agents counter the fall in ignition temperature by lowering the melting point. In the case of resin‐treated nylon it is probable that the lowering of the viscosity in the presence of flameproofing agents assists the dropping away of the melt.
Litera Scripta Manet— The Alizarin Débâcle
Authors: CLIFFE W. H.
Published: July 2010

After Brooke, Simpson & Spiller purchased the business of Perkin & Sons they failed to realise their expectations in the alizarin field and eventually gave up the attempt. How they unavailingly tried to impose responsibility for their failure on W. H. Perkin and T. D. Perkin, even to the extent of recourse to law, is now recorded for the first time.
The Use of Paper Chromatography in the Recognition of Chemical Damage to Wool
Authors: Köpke Vibeke , Nilssen Bailli
Published: July 2010

Hydrolysis of wool has been carried out by means of acid, alkali, and papain, the resulting solutions being analysed by one‐ and two‐dimensional chromatography. Acid hydrolysis appears to be the most convenient method. Experiments on desalting the amino‐acid solutions by the method of Consden, Gordon, and Martin show that this cannot usually be employed for purifying the solutions, as cysteic acid, methionine, and probably tyrosinesulphonic acid are destroyed during the process. The method has been used for wool treated with alkali, hydrogen peroxide, and sulphuric acid. In the present form the method is sensitive only to severe damage.
Adsorption at Organic Surfaces IV—Adsorption of Sulphonated Azo Dyes by Chitin from Aqueous Solution
Authors: Giles C. H. , Hassan A. S. A. , Subramanian R. V. R.
Published: July 2010

Lobster‐shell chitin has been used in quantitative adsorption studies with sulphonated azo dyes in aqueous solutions, mainly under acid conditions. The extent of adsorption has been correlated with the dye structures.

The mechanism of adsorption appears to be largely one of physical association between the aromatic residues of the dye and the molecular chains of the chitin, hydrogen bonding in acid solutions being unimportant. When inorganic acid is present, one sulphonate group in the dye anion takes part in ion exchange with inorganic anions at the cationic centres in chitin. Additional sulphonate groups appear to remain uncombined with the substrate and to reduce the affinity of the dye.
The Continuous Dyeing of Wool with Milling Acid Dyes
Authors: Lemin D. E.
Published: July 2010

It has been shown that loose wool may be successfully dyed continuously with milling acid dyes in very short times at 100d̀c. in normal scouring machines, thus eliminating normal dyeing machinery. The method is restricted commercially to pale and medium depths. A pad—steam method has been developed for dyeing wool pile fabrics continuously. It hasbeen found that it is not possible to dye wool piece goods satisfactorily by continuous pad‐steam methods, owing to the hydrophobic character of the wool and the difficulty of eliminating skitteriness from the dyeings.
Assessment of Weathering Fastness
Authors: Mclaren K.
Published: July 2010

The difficulties encountered in devising a test for the determination of fastness to weathering are described, as well as the attempts made to overcome them. No immediate solution is in sight, but the problem is being jointly studied in England, France, Germany, and Switzerland.
Flameproofing of Textile Fabrics with particular reference to the Function of Antimony Compounds
Authors: Read N. J. , Heighway‐Bury E. G.
Published: July 2010

Some modern flameproofing processes are outlined, and the requirements of an ideal process discussed together with some methods of testing flameproofness and durability. The importance of ease of ignition as distinct from rate of burning as a fire hazard is referred to.

The action of antimony oxide in association with hydrogen chloride liberated at ignition temperature is examined, and an experimental demonstration of the mechanism of the flameproofing effect of antimony chloride is described. The preparation, application, and performance of oil‐in‐water emulsions of plasticised polyvinyl chloride are discussed, and evidence of possible side‐effects of the composition and antimony oxide is supplied.
Adsorption at Organic Surfaces V—A Study of the Adsorption of Dyes and Other Organic Solutes by Cellulose and Chitin
Authors: Giles C. H. , Hassan A. S. A.
Published: July 2010

Adsorption experiments with cellulose and chitin and a variety of solutes, including non‐ionic hydroxy compounds, aromatic sulphonic acids, and azo dyes, are described. In non‐aqueous solvents the non‐ionic compounds are adsorbed by both substrates, but in water they are adsorbed only by chitin. Almost all the sulphonated compounds are adsorbed by both substrates, but benzenesulphonic acid is not adsorbed by cellulose.

It is concluded that cellulose adsorbs by hydrogen bond formation with the solute in absence of water, but in presence of water by van der Waals attraction alone. Chitin can adsorb by both of these mechanisms and also by ion exchange. In chitin the active centres for both hydrogen‐bond and ion‐exchange adsorption are the acetamido and ammo groups; the hydroxy groups in both cellulose and chitin are believed to be strongly solvated in water, and unable to adsorb solutes by hydrogen bonding.

The affinity for cellulose of the aromatic solutes and of vat dyes for which published data are available increases linearly with the logarithm of the length of the conjugate chain in the molecule. This appears to confirm that the affinity represents the attraction between the cellulose chain and the 77‐electron system of the solute molecules, which must be planar to have high substantivity. The effect on affinity of the amido group is discussed.
New Method for the High‐temperature Dyeing of Acrylic Fibres
Authors: Khachoyan J. , Niederhauser J. P.
Published: July 2010

A new method of dyeing polyacrylonitrile fibres at high temperatures, in the presence of hydroxyl‐amine sulphate, is described in detail. The hydroxylamine salt seems to modify the nitrile groups into new functions containing amino groups, which confer on the fibre affinity for soluble and insoluble dyes of different classes— acid, direct, metal‐complex, phthalocyanine, etc.
Some Practical Aspects of the High‐temperature Dyeing of Continuous‐filament Yarns of Man‐made Fibres
Authors: Fowler J. , Walsh K.
Published: July 2010

The theoretical advantages of high‐temperature dyeing are now generally recognised. Some of the practical aspects and the problems encountered are discussed on the basis of several years' experience in this specialised field.
Some Aspects of Bleaching with Hydrogen Peroxide and with Peracetic Acid
Authors: Chesner L. , Woodford G. C.
Published: July 2010

The methods and the theory of the bleaching of some of the principal textile fibres with hydrogen peroxide and peracetic acid are discussed. Observations are included on the greater ease of soil removal from bleached wool in relation to washing processes and the rôle of stabilisation in cotton‐bleaching processes. Improvements to existing bleaching methods are given, with particular reference to the use of per acids in kier bleaching, and some data are presented on the decomposition of dilute solutions of peracetic acid.
I–The Watering of Acetate Poult Fabrics Cause and Prevention
Authors: FRANCE E.
Published: July 2010

The watering of secondary cellulose acetate taffetas and poults in jigger processing is shown to occur during the first wetting–out run. The phenomena observed are related to the properties of the fabric and the physics of the roll. Practical methods of producing fabrics free from watering are discussed, and one, entailing a slight modification of normal jigger processing, is recommended.
The Separation, Estimation, Orientation, and Ultraviolet Spectra of Isomeric Azo Compounds formed by Diazo Coupling to 1–Naphthylamine and its Derivatives
Authors: WARD E. R. , PEAKSON B. D. , WELLS P. R.
Published: July 2010

Isomeric 2– and 4–azo–l–naphthylamines, formed by diazo coupling to i–naphthylamine and certain derivatives, are readily separated and estimated by chromatography on alumina columns. Pronounced differences in the ultraviolet spectra of such compounds provide a ready means of orientation. The analytical methods are applicable to very small quantities of material. Besides providing excellent techniques for investigating isomer distributions in diazo coupling to I–naphthylamine and its derivatives, they may find useful pharmacological applications. Ultraviolet spectra for a number of isomeric pairs are recorded, and the general characteristics of such spectra reported.
Studies on Haematoxylin and Haematein, the Colouring Principles of Logwood
Authors: LALOR G. C. , MARTIN S. L.
Published: July 2010

A method is described for measuring the absorption spectra of both compounds in aqueous solutions under conditions which minimise the risk of oxidation. Data so obtained are presented for concentrations 10‐4 to 10‐5M. over the pH range up to 10. Despite the special precautions, oxidation effects are still observed with. both compounds above pH 9–10. Below pH 6 haematein undergoes an acid–catalysed reaction.

There is no evidence of any ionisation process with haematoxylin solutions up to pH 9'6, above which reliable data could not be obtained. For haematein at 25°C. pKa(I) is 6. 86 ± 0. 05 and apparently applies to the hydroxyl in the quinonoid ring, and pKa(II) is 9. 9 ± 0. 1.

Absorption and kinetic studies suggest that in the acid reaction of haematein, catalysed by hydrogen ions in a pseudo–first–order manner, a molecule of water is added to form dihydrohaemateinol, by a reversible process proceeding to about 65% completion at equilibrium under the present conditions. The reaction is thus in some respects analogous to the reverse of the previously reported dehydration of hydroxy–di– or –tri–phenylmethanols to give the corresponding p–methylenequinones.
Cellulose and Formaldehyde
Authors: Marsh J. T.
Published: July 2010

The reaction between cellulose and formaldehyde has been known for over fifty years and, whilst its technical application is full of pitfalls, there are many aspects of great theoretical interest in connection with the chemistry of cellulose and the mechanism of certain finishing effects. One type of reaction with cellulose in the swollen state gives a product with “wet but not dry” recovery from creasing, whereas another type of reaction with the collapsed fibre gives a damaged product with high crease‐recovery and low water‐imbibition. The results accord generally with the proportions of regions of poor lateral order in cotton and rayon, and bear some relation to similar effects produced by resinous condensation products. The effect of the process on the breaking loads of cotton and rayon presents some anomalies, which are discussed together with the controversial matter of water‐imbibition and covalent cross‐linkages.
Stenter Drying
Authors: Uthwatt T. A. , Woollatt J. S.
Published: July 2010

Meetings of the Northern Ireland Section held in the Grosvenor Booms, Belfast, on 10th March 1959, Mr. W. J. Macnab in the chair; and of the Manchester Section held at the Textile Institute, Manchester, on 17th April 1959, Mr. H. A. Turner in the chair

Stenter drying by forced convection is discussed. The physical laws and the limitations which they impose are detailed. The factors which affect evaporative capacity are divided into those beyond and those within the designers' and operators' control. The methods used to develop a new design of stenter are described.
Some Observations on Dyeing by the Cuprous‐ion Method
Authors: Graham D. R. , Statham K. W.
Published: July 2010

The addition of complexing agents, such as chloride ions, has been shown to produce a more even uptake of cuprous ions by Orion. The shrinkage of acrylic fibres during dyeing by the cuprous‐ion method appears to depend on the amount of copper adsorbed. It may be due to disorientation of the molecular structure of the fibre.
COPE‐A Card‐operated Process‐timing Equipment Primarily Intended for the Control of Dyebaths
Authors: Reynolds I. R.
Published: July 2010

A dyeing machine may need the following on/off operations performed in a wide variety of timed sequences— water inlet, drain valve, steam, pump motor, dye feed, salt feed, finish feed. COPE provides an automatic control for all these, as well as for dyebath temperature and liquor level. Good reproducibility of shade has been obtained on repeat dyeings using this automatic control.