bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Effects of Harmony Between Personal and Apparel Coloring on Perceptions of a Woman's Employment Potential
Authors: Gibson Lou Ann , Balkwell Carolyn
Published: January 2008

The hypothesis that a woman job applicant wearing appropriate colors for her personal coloring would be perceived as having greater employment potential than a woman dressed in inappropriate colors was tested. The purposive sample consisted of 120 corporate personnel recruiters. Respondents rated a fictitious job applicant on a Likert-scaled employment potential questionnaire. A 2 X 2 factorial design was used to assess the effects of color appropriateness and job sought on employment potential. Analyses of variance indicated no direct effects of color appropriateness on perceptions of competence, independence, creativity, leadership, or loyalty. Color appropriateness interacted with job to affect perceptions of creativity; however, managerial applicants dressed in appropriate colors were judged less creative than counterparts wearing inappropriate colors. Color appropriateness also interacted with both job sought and gender of respondent to affect perceived loyalty, with improved ratings accruing only to women seeking sales positions who were rated by females. It was suggested that benefits of color analysis may lie in the aesthetic domain rather than in the domain of economic organization.
Dyeing and Colorfastness Characteristics of Direct-Dyed Ramie in Comparison to Flax and Cotton
Authors: Cheek Lenore
Published: January 2008

A comparison of dyeability and colorfastness characteristics of ramie, flax, and cotton yarns dyed with six direct dyes was made. When dyed in a common dyebath, the shade produced on each of the three fibers varied. Although the magnitude of difference varied among the dyes, there was consistently less difference between the shades produced on ramie and flax (mean Δ E = 2.6) than between ramie and cotton (mean ΔE = 8.7). Even when ramie had a lower actual dye content than either flax or cotton, its relative depth of shade (L-value) was higher. This can be attributed to optical effects arising from the comparatively large cross-sectional size of the fiber and its highly ordered structure. The colors produced on cotton were consistently brighter than those achieved on ramie or flax. This occurred because cotton, being a thinner fiber, contained more dye per volume fiber than ramie and flax. Little difference in colorfastness to laundering was seen among the three fibers.
Quality Indicators Used by Retail Buyers in the Purchase of Women's Sportswear
Authors: Rogers Jean C. , Lowell Lutz Sandra
Published: January 2008

This study used a mail questionnaire to investigate the quality indicators used by buyers to purchase women's sportswear. Spearman's Rho and ANOVA were used for analysis. Garment construction and brand name were identified as the best indicators of overall garment quality, but construction, price, and brand name were the most important cues used in purchase decisions. Educational background in basic textiles had little effect on buyers' prioritization of quality cues. Buyers who had more advanced study in textile testing and evaluation ranked fabric characteristics, garment construction, and price as important cues. Use of brand name and place of origin cues were both positively related to buyers' years of experience, while style and wholesaler's information were negatively correlated. Type of store had little effect on buyers' prioritization of quality cues. Style, seconds or irregulars, fabric flaws, dye imperfections, and price negatively affected buyers' purchasing decisions.
Consumer Intention to Purchase Apparel by Mail Order: Beliefs, Attitude, and Decision Process Variables
Authors: Shim Soyeon , Drake Mary Frances
Published: January 2008

The purpose of the study was to investigate consumers' intention to buy apparel items by mail order. More specifically the objectives were (a) to test two conceptual models of consumer behavior in the context of mail order shopping of apparel, especially concerning consumers' beliefs about and attitude toward mail order purchasing of apparel and decision process variables and (b) to identify factors that might distinguish those who have a high level of intention to purchase apparel through mail order from those who have a low intention in terms of decision process variables: individual characteristics, social influences, and situational influences. A random sample of consumers (n=348) was collected via a self-administered questionnaire mailed nationwide. Based on a series of t-tests, the results showed that those who had high intention to utilize mail order purchase of apparel showed significantly higher belief scores on all of the nine attributes of shopping and a more favorable attitude toward mail order purchasing of apparel than did those who had low intention. A stepwise multiple discriminant analysis revealed that two groups of high intention and low intention to utilize mail order shopping for apparel have relatively distinct profiles in terms of individual characteristics, social influences, and situational influences. The paper discusses theoretical implications as well as managerial implications.
Textile and Apparel Industry Support for the Crafted with Pride Campaign: A Systems Perspective
Authors: Douglas Sara U. , Morganosky Michelle A.
Published: January 2008

The U.S. textile and apparel industries have until quite recently displayed a limited capacity to change in spite of continued challenges presented by foreign competition and other environmental factors. The apparent improvement in industry economic indicators since 1986 suggests that these industries may be demonstrating a new and positive adaptability. To some extent this turnaround coincides with the creation and execution of the Crafted With Pride (CWP) campaign. A national survey of presidents in both industries shows that support of CWP is correlated with innovative business practices. These results are logical from a systems perspective which suggests that structure and management of a system are given energy by inputs from the external environment; inputs are then converted by the system into outputs. In this project, CWP is viewed as a component in the external marketing environment of the textile and apparel industries.
Velocity of the Fashion Process in Women's Formal Evening Dress, 1789-1980
Authors: Lowe Elizabeth D. , Lowe John W. G.
Published: January 2008

This study tests the proposition that the fashion process is accelerating by utilizing quantitative data and time series analysis. Metrical measurements of persistent features of women's formal evening dress (skirt length, skirt width, waist length, waist width, decolletage length, decolletage width) are taken from high fashion magazines and averaged to create yearly means, thereby creating a time series of 192 years. A methodology is described which deals with the magnitude of change from one year to the next in the means of each of the dress features. The velocity of the fashion process is found to be not accelerating in women's formal evening dress but rather is highly variable and episodic. What does exhibit a significant increase through time is the within-year variance of the variables.
Employment Orientation of Women as a Market Segmentation Variable for Apparel
Authors: Cassill Nancy
Published: January 2008

The purpose of this study was to refine previously established consumer profiles by investigating the influence offemale consumers' employment orientation on apparel decisions and evaluation of imported apparel. A mailing list of 10,000 female consumers, age 25-44, representing all occupations was purchased from The Lifestyle Selector. A random sample of 1,000 female consumers, ages 25-44, was sent questionnaires, resulting in a 43 % (n = 383) return rate. The use of Multivariate Analysis of Variance indicated that employment orientation significantly influenced apparel decisions and the evaluation of imported apparel. Thefour employment orientation groups (Career-Oriented Working Women, Just-a-Job Working Women, Plan-to-Work Housewives, Stay-at-Home Housewives) differed significantly on apparel decisions and the evaluation of imported apparel. Segmentation by employment orientation refined existing consumer profiles, and results reaffirmed that women's employment orientation is an influencing factor in apparel choices and therefore should be a consideration in target marketing strategies.
Recognition Effectiveness of Comic Strip Advertising for Small Retail Firms
Authors: Daneshvary Rennae
Published: January 2008

Beliefs toward comic strip advertising and recognition of a comic strip were investigated to examine the effectiveness of this medium for small retail firms in general and retail clothing stores in particular. In addition, the relationship between beliefs toward comic strip advertising and an individual's characteristics was examined. A questionnaire was mailed to randomly selected households in Grand Forks, North Dakota. Data from 147 questionnaires were analyzed by analysis of variance and chi-square. The results suggest that recognition of comic strip advertising is influenced by a set of belief items toward that medium and that it is a creative form of advertising clothing. However, no evidence was found to support that it will induce short-term purchase.
Ffact vs Ritac
Authors: Rabolt Nancy J.
Published: January 2008

Key United States government agencies and international bodies which administer and affect textile and apparel imports are outlined with their structure and functions. Associations and coalitions representing the textile and apparel industry and the retail industry also are presented, illustrating the free-trade vs protectionist views. Examples of conflicts between these two positions show the complexity of the textile and apparel import program.
Effect of Clothing, Sex, and Sex Role Stereotypes on Behavioral Expectations of a Preschool Child
Authors: Johnson Kim K. P. , Workman Jane E.
Published: January 2008

An experimental design was used to investigate the effect of sex-typed clothing, sex of child, and sex-role stereotype of subject on impressions of a preschool child's competencies and likelihood of engaging in sex-typed behaviors. Sex type of clothing and sex of child were manipulated using four black-and white photographs. Subjects were 100 females enrolled in an introductory early childhood education course. Data were analyzed using analyses of variance and the Neuman-Keul's test. The preschool girl was rated as more socially competent than the preschool boy. None of the independent variables influenced ratings of nonsocial competencies. For impressions of likelihood of engaging in sex-typed behaviors, subjects indicated that a female child was more likely to engage in feminine sex-typed activities than a male child and that a male child was more likely to engage in masculine sex-typed activities than a female child.
Animal Trademark Emblems on Fashion Apparel: A Semiotic Interpretation
Authors: Morgado Marcia A.
Published: January 2008

Animal trademark emblems on fashion apparel are proposed as signs representing conditions of American life and culture. In Part I an interpretive strategy which synthesizes semiotic theory with analytic and interpretive methods common to the visual arts is developed Peirce's triad of icon, index, and symbol is described as the framework for analysis. Panofsky's classic model for interpreting visual works of high art is the method through which the emblems are interpreted; the application is justified through popular culture theory. In Part II animal trademark emblems are interpreted as icon, index, and symbol of American culture, and the potential value of Peirce's trichotomy to semiotic analysis in broader areas of dress is suggested
Facets of Madeleine Vionnet's Cut: The Manipulation of Grain, Slashing, and Insets
Authors: Bryant Nancy O.
Published: January 2008

The objective of this study was to increase the understanding of the relationship of garment cut to the fabric's shaping around the body, as developed by Madeleine Vionnet. Six Vionnet gowns were selected from 40 artifacts attributed to Vionnet to illustrate aspects of Vionnet's cut. Gowns are discussed individually with references to similarities and differences in cut. The grain in relationship to the fabric's orientation on the body, the use of slashing to create body contour shaping, and the use of insets exemplify the Vionnet cut.
Buying Competencies: A Comparison of Perceptions Among Retail Buyers, Managers, and Students
Authors: Kotsiopulos Antigone , Oliver Barbara , Shim Soyeon
Published: January 2008

The objectives of the study were to determine the degree of importance that retail buyers (N = 86), retail managers (N = 73), and students studying merchandising (N = 252) place on certain competencies and to determine which competencies were most often listed as most important by each of the three groups. Data were collected using a self-administered questionnaire. The rating of buying competencies among the three groups was facilitated by using Kruskal-Wallis tests. Twenty-one of the 35 competencies had significant differences in the mean scores between at least two groups. Managers and students placed greater importance on most of the competencies than did retail buyers. The competency ranked most often as important by buyers was the ability to negotiate effectively with sales representatives while both students and managers selected the ability to understand custom ers' needs. The findings have implications for retailers as well as for educators.
Effect of Abrasion on Penetration of Tri-allate Through Selected Disposable Coverall Fabrics
Authors: Martin-Scott Sherri Y. , Kerr Nancy , Rigakis Katherine B.
Published: January 2008

Many agricultural workers wear disposable nonwoven coveralls while applying pesticides in the field. The degree of protection these garments offer after abrasive wear has not been studied. The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of abrasion on the penetration of a liquid pesticide, tri-allate, through selected disposable garment fabrics: Kleenguard® EP and Tyvek®. The relationship between the initial thickness and the initial mass of the fabric specimens and pesticide penetration also was examined to determine the effect of initial fabric variability on penetration. Penetration of tri-allate through the two fabrics differed statistically although total penetration was less than 1 % for both fabrics. Abrasion simulating one day's wearing resulted in a statistically significant increase in penetration through Kleenguard® EP but had no effect on penetration through Tyvek®. Initial mean thickness correlated with the penetration of tri-allate for Tyvek® at all three levels of abrasion and for unabraded Kleenguard® EP, but there was no correlation between initial mean thickness and pesticide penetration on abraded Kleenguard® EP specimens. Abrasion was a greater determinant of the rate of pesticide penetration than initial variability in thickness for Kleenguard® EP; initial variability in thickness remained a significant factor in pesticide penetration even after abrasion for Tyvek®. Initial mass did not correlate with pesticide penetration for either fabric.
Military Protective Clothing: Implications for Clothing and Textiles Curriculum and Research
Authors: Shanley Lisa A. , Slaten B. Lewis , Shanley Paul S.
Published: January 2008

Increased likelihood of armed forces operations occurring in hostile climatic regions have increased the need for highly specialized protective clothing systems. Protection is needed under a variety of conditions which often present conflicting requirements. Protective military clothing provides broad design possibilities and stimulates research for new textile materials and equipment. Development of protective gear provides the possibility for interdisciplinary teaching and research. Disciplines such as textile engineering, electrical engineering, industrial engineering and design, clothing design, textile science, and physiology can all be combined to provide satisfactory solutions to design problems presented by protective clothing systems. Current requirements for protective military clothing, problems with gear, and critical factors which can be addressed by clothing and textiles research are included.
Quiltmaking and the Modern Guild: A Cultural Idiom
Authors: Cerny Catherine A. , Eicher Joanne B. , DeLong Marilyn R.
Published: January 2008

In this paper, we interpret the meaning of contemporary quiltmaking by characterizing how the collective activities of quilt guild members have structured women's understanding of quilt tradition. Ethnography offers a methodological orientation by which meaning can be interpreted by analyzing the sociocultural context of the guild and considering the quilters' perspective. We analyze a particular example of "feminine culture," Minnesota Quilters, Inc. The guild community is important to individual expression, and members' activities provide evidence about a socialization process by which individuals draw upon a collective knowledge of quilt tradition to express themselves. Women's statements about their quilts refer to the significance of quiltmaking in the expression of personal experience. Three components of the discourse suggest that quiltmaking facilitates a woman's increasing integration within the quilting community and appropriation of traditional values: identification as guild member, characterization as quilter, and affirmation of female identity.
Textile Production in the Communalistic German Colony at Bethel, Missouri: 1844-1879
Authors: Horn Lisa , Wilson Laurel
Published: January 2008

A collection of textiles believed to have been produced in a German communalistic colony in Bethel, Missouri was investigated. Objectives of the study were to determine which, if any, of the textiles were actually made in the colony and interpret how individuals who made and used the textiles were affected by their German culture and their communalistic experience. Sixteen of the textiles were determined to be of Bethel Colony manufacture. These textiles exhibited very characteristic German patterns, unlike textiles produced among other German immigrant groups who lived in Missouri. It is probable that the communalistic nature of the colony helped maintain traditional German weaving practices.
Pesticide Use and Applicator Practices of Commercial Cattle Feeders
Authors: Munson Deanna , Huck Janice
Published: January 2008

While pesticides are extensively used in U.S. agriculture, little research has been done to document pesticide use and practices of applicators in commercial cattle feedlot operations. The purpose of this exploratory study was to: (1) investigate behavior of commercial cattle feeders using pesticides, (2) determine protective clothing and/or equipment used when personnel apply pesticides, (3) determine clothing management practices, and (4) identify formulations and methods of pesticide application used by feedlot personnel. A questionnaire was administered to 54 commercial feedlot operations. A majority of the 54 feedlots fed over 16,000 cattle annually, while most handling of livestock (including pesticide application) was done by small crews (i.e., 1-4 persons). Results indicated that these feedlot crews may be substantially exposed to a variety of pesticides. Generally, protective clothing was not worn or was insufficient to minimize pesticide exposure.
Probability of Being Employed Part-Time in Retail Sales
Authors: Domina Tanya , Paek Soae , Pritchard Mary , McGrath Paul
Published: January 2008

Since 1980 the percentage of the workforce engaged in part-time employment has increased, attributed to increase in service and retail industries and changing attitudes and lifestyles of workers. The purpose of the present study was to determine characteristics associated with choosing part-time employment in retail sales occupations.

The data set was the 1985 Current Population Survey, refined to limit the sample to 849 persons currently employed in retail sales occupations (U.S. Department of Commerce, 1985), 82% who worked in soft goods and 18% in hard goods.

Logit regressions tested models of characteristics such as gender, race, presence of children, and potential wage rates as to significance in increasing the probability of choosing part-time employment. Gender was an important predictor of work choice, with women more likely to work part-time than men. Women were more likely to work part-time if they were white, married, had children and lived further from the central city.
African American Women's Dress in Georgia, 1890-1914 A Photographic Examination
Authors: Hunt Patricia K. , Sibley Lucy R.
Published: January 2008

This study examines the types of clothing worn by African American women living in the state of Georgia between 1890 and 1914. The researchers used historical photographs as primary sources to document clothing. The photographs are located in three collections: Spelman College, Atlanta University, and the Georgia Department of Archives and History. The clothing in each photograph was recorded and compared to styles of clothing advertised in national magazines of the period corresponding to the date of the photograph. Analysis revealed that (a) African American women in Georgia in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries wore clothing similar in style to fashions advertised and illustrated in magazines and newspapers of the period, and (b) some items of dress were distinctive, that is, not illustrated in national periodicals of the time.
Dress and Appearance Responses to Perceptions of Aging
Authors: Jackson Hazel O. , O'Neal Gwendolyn S.
Published: January 2008

This study examined the relationship between elderly females' (55 years of age and older) perceptions of aging and their dress/ adornmentlappearance responses. The meta-analysis procedure was used to integrate the summary findings of 29 research documents. Content analysis was used to prepare the data and a Generalized Linear Model (GLM), Poisson Regression Analysis, was used to explore and summarize the perceptionlresponse relationship. Elderly females' statements on perceptions of aging are associated with statements on specific manipulations of appearance; however, study-group age and physical condition were shown to mediate the perceptionlresponse relationship.
Schematic Information Processing of Country of Origin Cues in Catalogs
Authors: Neuhauser Christine A. , Morganosky Michelle A.
Published: January 2008

The purpose of this study was to analyze the schematic interactions between clothing country of origin cues in catalogs in relation to quality and price images. Findings from interviews with 300 consumers suggest for price images, subjects were likely to use an "averaging" process when combining country of origin and catalog information cues. However, for quality images, an averaging process was less likely to take place and an anchoring effect in favor of lower quality image cues was observed. Implications for clothing catalog marketers in terms of quality and price images are addressed.
Comparison of After-Laundering Residues of Cypermethrin and Cyfluthrin in Fabrics: A Meta-Analytical Approach
Authors: Newburn Kristina , Laughlin Joan
Published: January 2008

This study is a meta-analysis of four experiments with two pyrethroids, cypermethrin and cyfluthrin, in two formulations, emulsifiable concentrates and wettable powders. Contributions of fabric weight, detergent type, and detergent concentration are evaluated for residue remaining in fabrics after laundering. Each of the four experiments is a factorial experiment, with two fabric weights (10 ozlyd2 and 14.5 ozlyd2), two detergent types (heavy-duty liquid and phosphate) and four detergent concentrations ( 0.0x, 0.5x, 1.0x, and 1.5x, where x = package label recommendations). Fabric specimens were contaminated, laundered, and residues remaining after laundering determined gas chromatographically.

The heavier the fabric, the more residues were retained. Cypermethrin was more completely removed by laundering than was cyfluthrin. The emulsifiable concentrate formulation was more difficult to remove than the wettable-powder formulation. The cyfluthrin emulsifiable concentrate residue was greater following laundering than other pesticides. Increasing detergent concentration was effective in reducing cyfluthrin residue. Detergent type should be selected according to pesticide formulation: a heavy-duty liquid detergent for the emulsifiable-concentrate and a phosphate, powdered detergent for the wettable-powder.
Water Pretreatment and Alkaline Treatment for Extraction of Fibers from Sugar Cane Rind
Authors: Collier Billie J. , Arora Manpreet S.
Published: January 2008

Fiber bundles from the rind of sugar cane are extracted and characterized. Cane rind is separated from the pith using the Tilby process, and the separated rind is submitted to a high temperature water pretreatment followed by extraction with sodium hydroxide. Water pretreatment affects the amount of lignin removed from cane fiber bundles as well as the physical and mechanical properties of the fibers. Higher temperature pretreatment and longer treatment times produced finer, shorter fiber bundles with higher tenacity. The most severe treatments, however, reduced the bundles to ultimate fibers that are too short for textile uses. Extracted fibers were stiffer than other textile fibers but could be formed into nonwoven geotextile mats.
Continuity and Change in Nebraska Quiltmakers, 1870-1989
Authors: Cox Crews Patricia , McClaren James Michelle
Published: January 2008

Using information garnered from questionnaires completed during Nebraska Quilt Project (NQP), we developed a profile of Nebraska quiltmakers in four time periods (1870-1919, 1920-1945, 1946-1969, and 1970-1989) and examined how quiltmaking practices and motivations changed over time. Quiltmaking in Nebraska continues to be predominately an activity of rural women; however, it has become increasingly popular among urban women since the 1970s. The majority of Nebraska quiltmakers of all periods were rural homemakers of German descent, affiliated with either a Methodist or Lutheran church. Proportionately fewer Catholic women quilted than did members of other denominations. And, proportionately more women of English and Scottish ancestry were quiltmakers than would be expected based on percentages of those ancestry groups among Nebraskans as a whole. Of those quiltmakers who were gainfully employed, most worked in fields traditionally chosen by women. These findings are consistent with the conservative nature of the population of an agriculturally-based economy as found in Nebraska.

Quiltmaking in Nebraska is a feminine skill usually transmitted by female relatives from generation to generation. There has been, however, a definite trend since the 1970s for quiltmakers to learn quiltmaking skills through formal quiltmaking classes. Most Nebraska quiltmakers began quilting as young adults. A smaller, but significant number of quiltmakers of the 1970s and 1980s began quilting in mid-life, a time when few quiltmakers of the earliest period began to make quilts.
Aesthetics: A Comparison of the State of the Art Outside and Inside the Field of Textiles and Clothing Part One: Creator and Creative Process
Authors: Fiore Ann Marie , Kimle Patricia Anne , Moreno Josephine Maria
Published: January 2008

This is the first of three papers in which we review aesthetics literature published from 1970 to 1992, found outside and inside the field of textiles and clothing. The majority of the literature external to the field of textiles and clothing came from books and journal articles of the fields of anthropology, art history, marketing, philosophy, and psychology. We limited our review of textiles and clothing literature to articles found in Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Dress, Home Economics Research Journal, Journal of Consumer Studies and Home Economics, and Textiles Research Journal. In this paper we provide definitions of the aesthetic object or experience found in the literature and also propose five categories useful in organizing aesthetics literature. The categories are: Creator, Creative Process, Object, Appreciation Process, and Appreciator. We review Creator and Creative Process literature. The Creator consists of literature that addresses the psychological and socio-cultural factors affecting the creator's aesthetic ability, participation in production, processes of production, and physical manifestations of the aesthetic product. The Creative Process contains literature that addresses the internal processes that take place in the creator during development of ideas through to the completion of the aesthetic product. A more thorough understanding of these topics has implications for the education of textiles and clothing students, as well as provides new insight into the process of creation of textile and apparel products in current and past societies from around the world.
Coming To Terms With Postmodern: Theories and Concepts of Contemporary Culture and Their Implications for Apparel Scholars
Authors: Morgado Marcia A.
Published: January 2008

Use of the term postmodern is increasingly evident in textiles and apparel scholarship and references to fashion and style are common in theories and analyses of postmodern culture. Postmodern is a problematic concept. It is used inconsistently to refer to a body of social theory, a style of aesthetic expression, and to various social practices and economic conditions; scholarly discussions are rife with arcane references and exclusive jargon. In this paper the scholarship of theorists, translators, interpreters, and critics is drawn on to identify and describe concepts from postmodern theory, to suggest the derivation of key principles from assumptions central to the philosophy of nihilism and to critical theory, and to indicate ways in which fashion emerges as a central concern in discussions of postmodern culture. A guide to terminology is provided. Postmodern theory is interpreted as a challenge to traditional modes of clothing scholarship and apparel scholars are asked to consider the significance of fashion and style from the perspective of Marxist critique, as well as to question assumptions associated with arguments about postmodern culture.
Development and Evaluation of a Prototype Athletic Girdle
Authors: Walde-Armstrong Kathleen M. , Branson Donna H. , Fair Jeffrey
Published: January 2008

Athletic girdles have been developed to support the groin, hamstring, and quadriceps muscle groups, to act as a muscle conditioner, to keep muscles warm and to fight muscle fatigue. Athletes' comfort perceptions and athletic performance were compared using a prototype girdle, a girdle currently being used by the university football team, and a non-girdle. Six male volunteers, all physically trained football coaches, served as test subjects. A Repeated Measures Latin Square Design was used for the eighteen 20-minute test sessions on a Stainnaster vertical climbing machine. Skin temperature, perceived comfort, athletic performance, and pre- and post-exercise muscle circumference measures were the independent variables. Both girdles maintained a higher skin temperature during exercise and cool down than the non-girdle. The prototype was rated more favorably than the other girdle for several of the comfort descriptors. No significant difference in athletic performance between garment treatments was found.
Measurement of Pore Characteristics in Nonwoven Fabrics Using Image Analysis
Authors: Bugao Xu
Published: January 2008

In evaluating the performance of nonwoven fabrics, pore characteristics provide important information concerning fluid permeability, filtration and mechanical properties of the fabrics. This paper reports new approaches of measuring pore characteristics using image analysis. The image processing techniques for identifying pore regions are addressed. The image analysis techniques are presented for pore characterization from four aspects: size, shape, orientation and placement. A new approach to estimate parameters of a theoretical model proposed by Lombard, et al. (1989) for prediction of pore size distribution is also introduced. Two sets of nonwoven fabrics with different fiber contents and different weights per unit area are investigated using these techniques.
Key Dimensions of Women's Ready-to-Wear Apparel: Developing a Consumer Size-Labeling System
Authors: Chun-Yoon Jongsuk , Jasper Cynthia R.
Published: January 2008

Key dimensions were selected for women's ready-to-wear garments to generate an anthropometric size-labeling system designating garment size with body measurements. Two different statistical analyses were used to select key dimensions: residual variance analysis and factor analysis. The results of the study show that (a) the key dimensions selected by both means of analysis are similar, (b) the key dimensions used in most mail-order catalogs are appropriate, and (c) in addition to the key dimensions currently in use, another key dimension representing length or height is needed. Bust circumference was selected as a key dimension for all upper body garments. Hip and waist circumferences were selected for all lower body garments. The key dimensions representing length or height were sleeve inseam length or sleeve outseam length for long-sleeve shirts, shoulder height or shoulder length for short-sleeve or sleeveless shirts, crotch height for calf- or ankle-length pants, and waist height for skirts.
Women 55 Years and Older: Part I
Authors: Goldsberry Ellen , Shim Soyeon , Reich Naomi
Published: January 2008

This study, sponsored by the Institute for Standards Research and the apparel industry, was undertaken to establish the very first large-scale body measurement database specifically of women age 55 and older. Part I examines differences in body measurements between the new database and the Voluntary Product Standard PS 42-70 database. Data collection and computing methodologies were pilot tested in Arizona with 469 subjects who were 55 years of age and older. State project coordinators (n = 38) and data collectors (n = 391) in 38 states were recruited and provided training during the two-day workshops conducted in 24 regional locations. Measurements of a total of 6,652 ambulatory women, representing 38 states, were included in the final analysis. A specially designed computer program sorted subjects by size based on the same bust, height, and weight criteria as those used in the PS 42-70 database. For the analysis subjects were classified into 7 figure types (Junior Petite, Junior, Misses Petite, Misses, Misses Tall, Women, and Half-Size) in 6 to 10 sizes each. Mean differences of each size within each figure type were compared by using t-tests. Significant differences between the current older women's body measurements and the PS 42-70 database measurements were found in the majority of sizes across the figure types. Body measurements that were significantly greater than the PS 42-70 database across the sizes and figure types were abdominal-extension, waist, sitting-spread, armscye, bust-height (level), back-width, chest-width, hip and hip-arc. Some measurements (e.g., hip-height, inseam, cervical-height, waist-arc, abdominal-arc, and weight) tended to be generally greater than those of the PS 42-70 with a few exceptions in some figure types. Depending on the sizes and figure types, other measurements varied in both directions from the PS 42-70. It can be expected that women 55 and older will have difficulties buying clothing that fits well under the current domestic sizing system. Therefore, it is critically important that this new database be used to develop improved sizing for women 55 and older. Part II explores women's perceptions of fitting problems experienced when buying clothing cut from domestic sizing charts which have evolved from PS 42-70, the industry's only existing large scale female body measurement database established from 1940 body measurement data.
Beyond Place
Authors: Kinkade Patrick T. , Katovich Michael A.
Published: January 2008

Regular participants in gaming subcultures do not seem as bound to conventional time and space anchors as other regulars (e.g., barroom habitués). This different type of regular status involves the assumption of identification in a more ethereal subculture, in the context of more rarified time and space anchors. This article examines a specific gaming culture, “Magic: The Gathering,” as an emergent and structured sequence of accomplishments in which individual participants and competitors cooperate to create and maintain specialized forms of competition, interaction, and commerce. One coauthor, assuming the identity of Playa' , observed the assumption and creation of regular identities that provided a foundation for the ongoing competitive and cooperative sequences and accomplishments.
Resistance and Accommodation in a Post-Welfare Social Service Organization
Authors: Jurik Nancy C. , Cavender Gray , Cowgill Julie
Published: January 2008

This article explores the complex and contradictory dynamics of client resistance to organizational rules and staff definitions in a nonprofit microenterprise development program. Micro-Enterprise, Inc. offers training and small loans to economically disadvantaged individuals who want to operate very small businesses. Although claiming to avoid the judgmental aspects of past social welfare programs, program staff recruited the “right type” of client. Individuals who did not conform to these classifications were disadvantaged in the program. Yet, clients were far from passive in these matters. They used fluid and convergent strategies to accommodate, reconstruct, and resist the dominant program discourse. Some strategies were individualistic whereas others were more collective; some strategies produced organizational change; others reinforced negative views of the poor. Over time, concerns about client resistance and funders' perceptions led to a series of program changes. These changes reduced the opportunities for collective client resistance to organizational rules and staff control. These findings also reveal the situated nature of resistance strategies.
Legitimated Oppression
Authors: Durán Robert J.
Published: January 2008

This article explores the gang suppression model and how it becomes practiced in the profiling and interactions between police and inner-city Mexican Americans. I conducted this research formally over five years in two southwestern cities—Denver, Colorado, and Ogden, Utah—and informally for fourteen years by the researcher's experience as an ex-gang member. I suggest that stereotyping Mexican American communities as gang “infested” and equating gangs as synonymous with crime allows for differential policing that no longer emphasizes criminal acts, but rather perpetual criminal people. Gang enforcement is over-inclusive and embedded with practices that create opportunities for abuse of authority.
Impaired Insight in Alzheimer's Disease
Authors: Mangone Carlos A. , Hier Daniel B. , Gorelick Philip B. , Ganellen Ronald J. , Langenberg Patricia , Boarman Regina , Dollear Winifred C.
Published: January 2008

We studied insight into illness in 41 patients with probable Alzheimer's disease. An impaired insight score was developed by measuring discrepancies between patient report and caregiver report on standard instruments of activities of daily living. Insight was more impaired in subjects with greater dementia severity and subjects with paranoid delusions. In a multivariate analysis, the best neuropsychological predictors of impaired insight were the Continuous Performance Test and the Visual Reproduction Test. We speculate that the impaired insight of Alzheimer's disease has two components: confabulation reflecting prefrontal dysfunction and anosognosia reflecting right-hemisphere dysfunction. ( J Geriatr Psychiatry Neurol 1991;4:189-193).
A New Assessment Tool for Neuropsychopharmacologic Research: The Computerized Neuropsychological Test Battery
Authors: Veroff Amy E. , Cutler Neal R. , Sramek John J. , Prior Patricia L. , Mickelson William , Hartman Janice K.
Published: January 2008

The Computerized Neuropsychological Test Battery (CNTB), a new assessment tool for neuropsychopharmacologic research, is based on a neuropsychological approach. While it is based on tests previously shown to be sensitive to subtle changes in neuropsychological functioning, it differs from currently available tools for measuring central nervous system effects of new compounds. It has sensitivity to a broader range of cognitive functioning and is more comprehensive than other measurements in its sampling of neuropsychological functions, providing wider application to diverse clinical populations. The CNTB is valid, reliable, and has two alternative forms. Use of the computer as an expert system maximizes standardization and ease of CNTB administration and data analysis. Using this assessment tool, three groups of subjects were compared: young and elderly neurologically normal subjects and elderly subjects with the dementia syndrome of Alzheimer's disease (AD). The AD subjects' summary score on the CNTB correlated significantly with the Blessed Information Memory Concentration Test score. The CNTB summary score was significantly higher in young subjects than in neurologically normal elderly subjects, demonstrating sensitivity to the effects of aging. The CNTB summary score also was significantly higher in neurologically normal elderly subjects than in elderly subjects with AD dementia. ( J Geriatr Psychiatry Neurol 1991;4:211-217).
Quantitative Assessment of ALZ-50 Immunoreactivity in Alzheimer's Disease
Authors: Hyman B.T. , Flory J.E. , Arnold S.E. , Van Hoesen G.W. , Schelper R.L. , Ghanbari H. , Haigler H.
Published: January 2008

A quantitative assay for ALZ-50 immunoreactivity was evaluated in samples of superior temporal gyrus taken at autopsy from 13 Alzheimer patients and 11 controls. The assayable immunoreactivity appears to be stable for at least 24 hours postmortem but was lost with formalin fixation. The mean value of the Alzheimer patients was tenfold higher than that of the controls (P < .002). The values of four Alzheimer samples overlapped with the low levels seen in controls, but no controls had elevated levels. In this sample population, therefore, the assay had a sensitivity of 69% and specificity of 100%. ( J Geriatr Psychiatry Neurol 1991;4:231-235).
Comprehensively appraised
Authors: Copley John , Thomas Daniel
Published: January 2008

Testing, testing, testing! A South Wales comprehensive secondary school risked asking the appraisees and appraisers what they thought of the school scheme and how it measured up to objectives. A somewhat depressing outcome ensued - Ed.
Developing a Development Plan
Authors: Harding David
Published: January 2008

A realistic description of just how long it takes to lead a school towards internalising the basics of development planning. How long did it take you ? — Ed.
Controlling That SPECIAL Work Load
Authors: Dragan Edward
Published: January 2008

Legislation in the 1980s and 1990s for special needs' pupils and the subsequent Code of Practice have immeasurably increased requirements for, inter alia, individual needs' assessments. Compare how you coped with this USA experience and consider the suggestions for keeping the workload under control — Ed.
How others see us
Authors: Barnes Chris
Published: January 2008

It is well documented that parents and pupils are inordinately influenced in their choice of school by considerations of reputation or image. Their perceptions of educational institutions, accurate or otherwise, constitute a basis by which they select one school in preference to another.
It's time for you to develop professionally... ... or get left behind
Authors: Johnson Donald R. , Everett Ronald E.
Published: January 2008

One of the features of the BEMAS Annual Conference is the interaction with those from overseas. Here the authors give a flavour of the approach to continuing professional development in Illinois.
The school management scale
Authors: Smith lain , McCall Jim
Published: January 2008

The authors explain the use of a scale for the internal evaluation of a school's management climate
Parachute to your targets?
Authors: Evans Gill , Gorton Charlie , Lister Elen , Stott Judith
Published: January 2008

Target-setting in schools is becoming an everyday occurrence. But once targets have been set, how do schools go about achieving them? This article considers a potentially useful model, developed by the authors during a consultancy activity in a large junior school in Manchester.
Teachers and lifelong learning
Authors: Fleming Peter
Published: January 2008

If teachers are to become strong advocates for Mr. Blunkett's vision of a nation of lifelong learners, there will need to be a major rethink about the way those in the profession who commit themselves to award bearing professional development programmes are encouraged, supported and rewarded.
Deputy headteachers and the NPQH
Authors: Shipton Jean
Published: January 2008

Deputy headteachers form the major target group as candidates for the National Professional Qualification for Headship (NPQH), yet evidence is beginning to emerge that not only demonstrates little interest in the programme but also shows that the infrastructure necessary at the school level for successful completion of the award is inadequate.
A role with a view?
Authors: Cooper David
Published: January 2008

The changing role of the deputy headteacher and vice principal in contemporary self-managing secondary schools and colleges.
In charge, in control and firmly in the seat
Authors: Morgan Brinley
Published: January 2008

At first, the educational reforms appeared to threaten the traditional autonomous role of the head. However, recent developments of the Senior Management Team suggests that the SMT is evolving as a collegiate headship group, which is assuming many of the traditional roles of the head. Neither this change nor other reforms are really threatening the head role, but rather protecting it, and enabling the head to continue to exercise a comparable, even strengthened role as in the past.
Student and staff appraisal - how to give effective feedback
Authors: Jones Sue
Published: January 2008

This article outlines the difficulties of giving negative feedback to students and staff and proposes a 3 point approach to overcoming the difficulties.
Back to the Market
Authors: Shackleton J. R.
Published: January 2008

The recent explosion of interest in privatisation and deregulation is not a purely Thatcherite or eveni purely British phenomenon. This paper outlines the measures carried out or currenitly planned in a number of leading economies, examines the econiomic rationale for these policies and relates this to their political popularity. The discussion is linked to a reconsideration of earlier accounts of the expansion of the State's involvement in the economy (particularly the received account of the history of nationalisation). It also looks forward; is the current episode merely a temporary reversal of the State's expanding role in the economy, or is the movement back towards the Market a more fundamental one?
Policy and Influence: MAFF and the NFU
Authors: Holbeche Barney
Published: January 2008

This paper examines the closest and best known of the ‘insider’ pressure groups-the National Farmers' Union. The Parliamentary Director of the NFU stresses that there is nothing to be taken for granted from the NFU's point of view. Influence varies issue by issue and progress in the pursuit, of NFU goals depends on political skill, perseverance-and simple luck.