bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Crystal Data for C.I. Pigment Yellow 65
Authors: Whitaker A.
Published: July 2010

The single‐crystal data and X‐ray powder pattern are reported for C.I. Pigment Yellow 65 [|α‐(1‐hydroxy‐ethylidenejacet‐2‐methoxy‐anilide‐α‐azo‐(4′‐methoxy‐2′‐nitrobenzene)]. The powder patter has been indexed from the cell dimensions given by single crystal measurements; by problems of multiple indexing have been reduced by comapring the powder data with observed single‐crystal intensities.
Diffusion of Disperse Dyes into Nylon 6 Above and Below the Glass‐transition Temperature
Authors: Hori Teruo , Fujita Ikuo , Shimizu Toru
Published: July 2010

As a part of a study on the mechanism of dye diffusion into fibres, the temperature dependence of the diffusion coefficient of some disperse dyes into nylon 6 film was studied above and below the glass‐transition temperature, using mixed solvents as dyeing media. From the experimental results, the contributions of the pore model diffusion and the free‐volume diffusion to overall diffusion are discussed.
The parameters of rotary‐screen printing
Authors: Hawkyard C J , Miah A S
Published: July 2010

The amount of print paste applied through electroformed nickel rotary screens and the penetration into cotton fabric have been studied using a magnetic rod (Zimmer) sample machine. In this work the effects of the variation of screen mesh, machine settings and print paste rheology have been monitored, and in a subsequent study the effects of changes in the substrate being printed will be assessed.
Degradation of azo dyes by cell‐free extract fromAeromonas hydrophilavar. 24B
Authors: Yatome Chizuko , Ogawa Toshihiko , Itoh Kiyoharu , Sugiyama Akihisa , Idaka Eiichi
Published: July 2010

The degradation of several azo dyes by cell‐free extract from Aeromonas hydrophila var. 24B has been studied. The compounds 4‐dimethylaminoazobenzene, 4‐diethylaminoazobenzene, 2′‐carboxy‐4‐dimethylaminoazo‐benzene, 2′‐carboxy‐4‐diethylaminoazobenzene, 4′‐carboxy‐4‐dimethylaminoazobenzene, and 2′‐methoxy‐carbonyl‐4‐dimethylaminoazobenzene were appreciably degraded by the cell‐free extract. Azobenzene and 4‐carboxyazobenzene were not degraded. Aniline was detected by gas chromatography‐mass spectrometry as a degradation product from 4‐aminoazobenzene and 4‐dimethylaminoazobenzene. 4‐DimethyIaminoaniline was detected by gas chromatography‐mass spectrometry and spectrophotofluorimetry as a degradation product from 2′‐carboxy‐4‐dimethylaminoazobenzene. The cell‐free extract had high substrate specificity for 2′‐carboxy‐4‐dimethylaminoazobenzene.
The dyeing of cotton with phosphonic reactive dyes in alcohols
Authors: Amato Maria E , Fisichella Salvatore , Rattee Ian D
Published: July 2010

The poor fixation achieved with phosphonated reactive dyes on cotton in practice, particularly in printing, has prompted a study of the effect of reaction conditions and the use of different diimides to achieve fixation. It has been possible to achieve as much as 95% fixation with a typical dye under suitable application conditions, where decomposition of the diimide can be minimised.
Pigment Yellow G583‐a misclassified pigment and its relationship with other acetoacetanilide azo pigments
Authors: Whitaker A.
Published: July 2010

Pigment Yellow G583 (nominally C.I. Pigment Yellow 6) has been compared with another version of C.I. Pigment Yellow 6 (Recolite Fast Yellow 3G) and the colour and the X‐ray powder diffraction pattern have been found to be different. Density measurements, crystal structure analysis and chemical analysis have shown that the former is a mixed crystal of60 mol% C.I. Pigment Yellow 6 and 40 mol% C.I. Pigment Yellow 5. Pigment Yellow G583 was then compared crystallographically with a series of similar pigments, and it has been concluded that the structure of C.I. Pigment Yellow 6 is different to that of all the others. Regardless of composition, Pigment Yellow G583 is a mixed crystal of C.I. Pigment Yellow6 molecules in an α‐C.I. Pigment Yellow 5 lattice and not vice versa. This does not necessarily make Pigment Yellow G583 a poor pigment, but a change of composition may cause the crystal lattice to become that of C.I. Pigment Yellow 6, changing the physical properties. The only way in which a change of crystal structure can be detected is to examine the X‐ray diffraction pattern.
The influence of mixtures of electrolytes on the adsorption of Chlorazol Sky Blue FF on viscose fibres
Authors: Iyer S R Sivaraja , Ramaseshan G.
Published: July 2010

Equilibrium adsorption isotherms and rates of dyeing for Chlorazol Sky Blue FF on viscose fibres in the presence of lithium, sodium and potassium chlorides, singly and in binary mixtures, have been measured. In the presence of the single electrolytes dye adsorption and rates of dyeing at constant electrolyte concentration increase in the order LiCl<NaCl<KCl. In mixtures of these electrolytes, however, the cation with the greater ability to disrupt the structure of water considerably enhances the ability of the other cation to influence dye adsorption and dyeing rates.
Whither automation‐how much can we afford?
Authors: Park James
Published: July 2010

The installation of process control in the batch dyehouse is essential to obtain good productivity and efficiency and significant cost savings. It is also a prerequisite to the installation of control technology through to the level of total automation. The various areas requiring process control are discussed. Virtually every function in the dyehouse can be automatically controlled, but at a cost. Many features of available control technology have been well documented and are reviewed only briefly here. The options available for the installation of control equipment are discussed and various case histories are utilised to demonstrate the cost‐effectiveness of installing control equipment at various levels of sophistication.
The effect of singlet oxygen quenchers with additional u.v. absorbing functionality on the photofading of acid dyes
Authors: Oda Hironori , Kitao Teijiro
Published: July 2010

The influence of singlet oxygen quenchers with additional u.v. absorbing functionality on the photofading of some acid dyes has been examined in solution and in the adsorbed state. A significant stabilising effect has been observed.
Crystal data for C.I. Pigment Yellow 10
Authors: Whitaker A.
Published: July 2010

The single crystal data and X‐ray powder pattern are reported for C.I. Pigment Yellow 10[1‐phenyl‐3‐methyl‐4‐(2′,5′‐dichlorophenylazo)‐5‐pyrazolone]. The powder pattern has been indexed from cell dimensions given by single crystal measurements. The problems of multiple indexing have been reduced by comparing the powder data with observed single crystal intensities.
A process for the combined scouring and bleaching of polyester/cotton fabrics at low temperature
Authors: Gulrajani M L , Venkatraj R. , Chandrasekaran P.
Published: July 2010

Optimisation of a low‐temperature combined scouring and bleaching process for polyester/cotton fabric using triethanolamine hydrochloride‐activated sodium chlorite as bleaching agent and a self‐emulsifiable solvent composition as scouring agent has been carried out. The effect of various parameters, namely bleaching agent concentration, time and temperature of treatment, has been investigated by a factorial design methodology.
A study into respiratory disease in dyehouse operatives exposed to reactive dyes
Authors: Wattie Joanna M
Published: July 2010

Sporadic reports have occurred of dyehouse operatives suffering from symptoms suggesting an allergy to reactive dyes. A study was undertaken in 1985 of 414 dyeworkers in Leicester and Manchester. After detailed clinical assessment, 21 workers were identified as having allergic symptoms, including occupational asthma due to one or more reactive dyes and 19 had irritant reactions to a variety of chemicals.
The effect of heating on the release of formaldehyde from durable‐press finished fabrics
Authors: Soljacic Ivo , Katovic Drago
Published: July 2010

The effect of subsequent heating on formaldehyde release from DMDHEU‐finished fabric has been examined. Formaldehyde release was higher at higher heating temperatures, but fabrics cured at higher temperatures showed less released formaldehyde. Adding urea reduced formaldehyde release.
The direct application of laser flash photolysis to cotton fabric dyed with a phthalocyanine dye
Authors: Willsher Charles
Published: July 2010

Flash photolysis studies of sulphonated aluminium(III) phthalocyanine contained in cotton fabric show that the dye has essentially the same spectral behaviour as when dissolved in water, but the lifetime of excited states is longer. Following excitation of the Soret band, the triplet‐triplet absorption of the dye has a lifetime of 770±60 μ s in an oxygen‐free fabric, with inefficient quenching by oxygen observed only if the fibres are water‐saturated. S1S0fluorescence from the dye is detected only when the sample contains oxygen and the decay has two components; in the absence of oxygen T2T1 emission occurs as well. Prolonged exposure to the 354nm exciting laser causes the build‐up of a red substance in the fabric, which is believed to be the product of one‐electron oxidation of the phthalocyanine. Electron acceptors and donors such as methyl viologen and hydroquinone have a limited quenching effect on the excited states of the dye. The observed behaviour of the dye is discussed in terms of the restricted diffusion of molecules within the cotton fibres and of the enhanced lifetimes of the excited states.
Dyeing properties of monoazo disperse dyes derived from 4‐alkylamidosalicylic acids: equilibrium study
Authors: Savarino P. , Barni E. , Viscardi G. , Carpignano R. , Modica G Di
Published: July 2010

The dyeing equilibria of a set of monoazo dyes derived from 4‐alkylamidosalicylic acids on nylon 6.6 have been studied. A Nemst distribution has been obtained indicating the prevailing mechanism of solution of the dye in the fibre Equilibrium depends on the length of the alkyl chain of the dye and on the concentration of dispersant. The latter affects the equilibrium differently according to the hydrophobicity of the dye. Linear relationships between the chain length and ΔHd̀ and ΔSd̀ have been found.
Disperse dyeing of methacrylic acid grafted polypropylene fibres
Authors: Mukherjee A K , Gupta B D
Published: July 2010

The dyeing behaviour of methacrylic acid grafted polypropylene fibre with a disperse dye (Dispersol Red B‐3B) under infinite dyebath conditions has been evaluated. It was found that uptake of dye by the fibre is considerably improved by grafting. The rate of dyeing and the diffusion coefficient also showed marked increases in the grafted samples. Theresults have been explained in terms of the structural changes in the fibre effected by grafting.
Dynamic flow phenomena in a foam application unit
Authors: Kroezen A B J , Wassink J Groot
Published: July 2010

If, during the operation of a foam application unit, a change in the foam production is introduced, the change in the flow becomes noticeable at the point of application onlyafter a certain response delay time. During the operation of the unit it is necessary to take this response delay into consideration. By varying the flow of foam in the application unit, the mass content of foam in the unit is changed as a result of the changed pressure inside the unit. The response delay has been mathematically derived for the flow of agiven type of foam through pipes, as well as through a foam printing unit as a whole. A deviation in the yield of foam on the substrate can be avoided by considering the respons delay caused by a change in the foam production process.
Experiment!
Authors: Hickman William S
Published: July 2010

The paper explains in non‐statistical language the advantages, use and interpretationof statistically designed experiments as used in textile wet processing. A computer program is provided for the interpretation phase. Two examples of bleaching processes are given as illustrations of the principles, and the program used to process the results is alsoquoted. Finally the essential questions which need to be answered before carrying out anyinvestigation are listed.
List of colorants to be classified as toxic
Authors: Anliker R. , Dürig G. , Steinle D. , Moriconi E J
Published: July 2010

This paper presents a list of colorants that must be classified as toxic on the basisof their acute peroral LD50 value, applying the criteria of the EEC 6th amendment. For each product the list includes: C. I. generic name and number, CAS number and name, concentration of active ingredient, toxicological data and recommended labelling.
Wool bleaching with thiourea dioxide
Authors: Cegarra J , Gacén J , Caro M , Pepió M
Published: July 2010

This paper examines the results of using thiourea dioxide as a reducing agent in wool bleaching. The first part analyses the influence of pH, temperature and concentration of thiourea dioxide in solution on its decomposition, which increases markedly at pHvalues above 5.5, at temperatures over 50°C and when the concentration decreases. The second part studies the influence of temperature, concentration of thiourea dioxide and time on the degree of whiteness, yellowness index, cysteine content and tensile strength of the bleached wool. A central rotatable design is used to find the response equations of the properties of bleached wool versus the variables. Finally, the optimum conditions of wool bleaching with thiourea dioxide are indicated.
Studies on the acylation of some azo dyes
Authors: Rao B V , Vaidya A A , Choudhary V , Varma I K
Published: July 2010

This paper deals with the modification of azo dyes with α N‐ß‐hydroxyethyl group by acetylation, benzoylation, and terephthaloylation. These modified dyes were characterised by elemental analysis and melting point determination. Lower melting points were observed in acetylated dyes. Structural analyses were carried out by using visible, i.r., 1H‐n.m.r. and mass spectroscopic techniques. A hypsochromic shift was observed on acylating the hydroxy dyes. The thermal stability of dyes was evaluated by dynamic thermogravimetric analysis, and acylation was found to cause an increase in thermal stability.
Dyeing with kermes is still alive!
Authors: Verhecken A
Published: July 2010

The source of the natural dye kermes is discussed and a dyehouse in Tunisia that still utilises this dyestuff is described.
Reactive dyes for cellulose. Concurrent methoxide‐hydroxide reactions of triazinyl reactive systems: a model system for assessment of potential fixation efficiency
Authors: Renfrew A H M , Taylor J A
Published: July 2010

A series of triazinyl reactive dyes, identical in all respects but for the leaving group, has been synthesised. The rate of hydrolysis of each member of the series, i.e. fluoro, chloro, sulpho and DABCO derivatives, has been determined. The corresponding nicotinic acid compound could not be included in the study as it did not yield the expected hydroxytriazine in dilute sodium carbonate solution. Each dye has been added, in turn, to a methanol‐water solution in the presence of base and the chemical selectivity to methoxide attack determined from the product ratio. Measurements were made at 40°C and under conditions of equal reactivity to hydroxide ion, as determined from Arrhenius plots. The selectivity results are in agreement with empirical observations, made over more than 30 years, for the fixation efficiency to cellulose of dyes carrying these reactive groups.
The importance of film thickener structure, dye vapour pressure and solubility parameter in sublimation transfer printing
Authors: Chavan R B , Jain A K
Published: July 2010

An attempt has been made to highlight the importance of the structure of the thickener film for dye release in sublimation transfer printing. The roles of (a) dye vapour pressure and (b) the solubility parameters of the dye and of the fibre have also been investigated. Indalca gum was found to hinder the release of dye from paper, resulting in low dye transfer. The incorporation of a suitable auxiliary in the print paste was helpful in eliminating the barrier action of the thickener film. It is suggested that, after the release of dye from the thickener film, the rate of transfer was dependent on dye vapour pressure, while the actual amount of dye transferred was governed by the solubility parameter of the dye and of the polyester fibre.
Dyeing for a living — current and future status of the dye‐making and dye‐using industries
Authors: Lewis David M
Published: July 2010

The purest and most thoughtful minds are those which love colour the most — John Ruskin (1891–1900)
Automation in the dyeing laboratory and its influence on accuracy in batch dyeing
Authors: Harvey Hazel N , Park James
Published: July 2010

Accurate laboratory dyeing techniques that correlate with bulk processing are essential if cost‐effective coloration processes are to be established. This will result in the ability to utilise successfully blind dyeing techniques, which will assist in giving the desired quick response to the market and ensure that the material is ‘right first time’. The laboratory dyeing activity has often been criticised by the practical dyer and reasons for this are discussed. Methods of improving laboratory accuracy are reviewed together with several recent developments in laboratory automation. The advantages and disadvantages of the latter are considered. Finally an approach to automation, developed by the authors, that is likely to be of value to the smaller dyeing laboratory is presented.
Colour in newspapers
Authors: Casey Paul
Published: July 2010

A major turnabout in industrial relations during the 1980s has led to the UK national newspaper industry becoming more viable and confident. This has led to the introduction of new equipment and processes, which in turn introduce the possibility of regular full colour newpapers. This article introduces briefly the processes that have now become outmoded, and those that have taken or are taking over from them, with more explanation of why the ‘colour explosion’ in newpapers should be under way now. It concludes with a personal view of how the UK and European newspaper industry will change over the next decade or so.
Thermal properties and characteristics of thin layers of nickel dithiolene complexes
Authors: Nakazumi H , Takamura R , Kitao T , Kashiwagi K , Harada H , Shiozaki H
Published: July 2010

Thermal properties of near infra–red–absorbing nickel dithiolene complexes have been examined by thermal gravimetric and differential scanning calorimetry analysis. The nickel complexes with relatively low melting points gave a DRAW disc with better recording characteristics, when they were used as inhibitors of the photofading of thin layers of cyanine dyes. Thin layers of the nickel complexes on polymethylmethacrylate or glass were formed by spin coating and by the radio–frequency reactive ion plating technique. Their reflectance, absorption spectra and optical recording characteristics have been recorded.
Improvement in the light fastness of dyed and pigmented materials. 3 – The effect of antioxidants on the photostabilisation of dyes and pigments in some polymeric media
Authors: Kuramoto Nobuhiro
Published: July 2010

The effect of some added antioxidants on the photostabilisation of a quinophthalone dye (C. I. Solvent Yellow 33) and C. I. Pigment Red 38 in polymeric media such as chlorosulphonated polyethylene (CSM rubber), poly(vinyl chloride) (PVC) and polyethylene has been examined. The effects varied according to the type of antioxidant used. For example, the addition of 2, 6–di–t–butyl–4–methylphenol, an effective radical scavenger, afforded little protection against photodegradation, whilst the singlet oxygen quenching of antioxidants such as bis(l, 2–diaryl or dialkyl–l, 2–ethylenedithiolato) nickel, nickel dialkyldithiocar–bamate, nickel bis(mesitylenesulphonate), and nickel (N–n–dodecylsalicylaldimine) conferred improved resistance towards photodegradation.
Foam application from a closed system – a study of machine and foam parameters
Authors: Lemmen Jacques T E , Wassink Jan Groot
Published: July 2010

An attempt has been made to gain a greater insight into the interaction between foam and a moving textile substrate. The effects of changing wet pick–up, fabric velocity, liquid viscosity, foam density and mode of application on penetration have been studied. Application from a closed system makes it possible to apply an exact amount of liquid, and reflectance measurements revealed that between 10 and 60% wet pick–up the actual level of wet pick–up is of major importance. The amount of liquid available determines the likelihood of capillary transport. The results obtained in terms of fabric speed and foam density still leave questions to be answered on the mechanisms of foam flow and degradation in the textile.
Flow of foam through plain perforated and woven metal screens
Authors: Lemmen Jacques T E , Wassink Jan Groot
Published: July 2010

The interaction of foam with textile substrates has been investigated, starting with an attempt to describe the flow of foam in textile–like substrates. This was done by separately evaluating rheology and pressure–drop data. The influence of bubble size was found to be particularly important. In a coaxial cylinder viscometer the viscosity was found to be inversely proportional to bubble size. This finding could not be used to describe the pressure drop of foam flow through flat metal screens according to the d'Arcy equation. Equations could not be satisfactorily derived to describe phenomena such as bubble deformation and diminution, but empirical determination of these parameters could be achieved for each combination of foam and substrate.
Nottingham and the Leen Valley: bleaching and dyeing in a historical context
Authors: Murfet George J
Published: July 2010

The history of the bleaching, dyeing and finishing sectors of the Nottinghamshire textile industry is one of changing emphasis, as flax, wool and silk for woven fabrics (post‐Conquest period) came to be replaced by cotton and worsted yams for framework knitting and by lace manufacture (Industrial Revolution period), and ultimately by natural and synthetic fibre yarns for the warp‐knit and weft‐knit sectors (20th century). The period covered is from the post‐Conquest times, when woollen manufacture had given rise to considerable wealth for certain families and when bleachers and dyers laboured under burgesses and gilds, until the end of the 19th century with the factory system in place, and the new unionism in force.
Solvent assisted dyeing of acrylic fibres. Part 2‐dyeing with disperse and cationic dyes
Authors: Shukla S R , Hundekar R V , Saligram A N
Published: July 2010

The plasticising solvents ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, nitromethane and iso‐amyl alcohol have been added to aqueous dyebaths containing disperse and cationic dyes. The dye uptake in all the cases was found to increase linearly with decrease in the glass transition temperature of the acrylic fibres.
Profitability through partnership?
Authors: Laidlaw William
Published: July 2010

The Society of Dyers and Colourists' international conference was held at York on 12–14 September 1990. The theme was ‘Profitability through partnership’. Several of the papers presented at this event are published below. This special feature is introduced by an article by Bill Laidlaw, chief executive of Tootal Textiles International Operations, who draws together some of the main threads of the discussions that took place at the conference.
A new method for the determination of the solubility of disperse dyes
Authors: Braun Heinrich H
Published: July 2010

The solubility of sparingly soluble compounds, particularly when they are present in the finely dispersed state, is difficult to measure, especially at elevated temperature and pressure. To date there have been no simple methods of determination. A quick and very simple method is now presented, termed ‘solubility titration’, based on the idea that if the substance under test is added gradually in small amounts to a solvent or dilute solution, its extinction or light scattering in the u.v/visible region must change abruptly the moment the solubility is exceeded. Such is actually the case, and the solubility is found from the extinction or from the light scattered, at the point indicated by the intersection of two curves. This method was developed specifically to determine the water solubility of commercial disperse dyes under dyeing conditions, i.e. at 130d̀C and elevated pressure (about 400 kPa). Tests gave precise, highly reproducible values.
Low‐temperature dyeing of real silk fabrics using a redox system
Authors: Luo Jutao
Published: July 2010

A low‐temperature dyeing redox dyeing system has been investigated. The system has shown considerable promise for use in practical dyeing.
A sodium acetate/acetic acid buffer system for the low‐temperature dyeing of silk fabrics
Authors: Luo Jutao
Published: July 2010

A low‐temperature dyeing system for silk fabrics based on a sodium acetate/acetic buffer system has been investigated. Some factors affecting dyeing have been examined; the buffer system has shown considerable promise for use in practical dyeing.
WOOLY — an expert system for the wool dyer
Authors: Frei Gertrud , Walliser Roland
Published: July 2010

The knowledge acquired by many generations of dyers and by today's wool dyeing specialists can now be gathered and stored in databases. This has allowed the development of a computerised expert system capable of solving different standard tasks of the wool dyer. This is demonstrated by simulated screen displays.
The natural fluorescence of wool
Authors: Schäfer Karola
Published: July 2010

Wool exhibits a natural fluorescence which increases markedly during irradiation. The tips of weathered wool fluoresce more strongly than the roots. Lambswool, which is weathered only slightly, shows only a weak fluorescence, although it has been found that a high intrinsic fluorescence of wool is not only caused by exposure to light. A direct correlation between yellowness and intensity of fluorescence exists. During photobleaching of initially yellow wool a decrease in fluorescence has been found, which reverses upon longer exposure to light.
Instrumental methods in fastness testing
Authors: Rigg Bryan
Published: July 2010

The fastness characteristics of textile and other materials are an important property. The Society has long been engaged in helping to develop standard methods of fastness testing. This paper is a brief account of developments in recent years leading to instrumental methods for assessing the fastness of textile materials. In all cases, the basic method of test is unchanged. The instrumental method is simply an alternative to the visual method for assessing the degree of contrast between the specimen and a specimen of the original material after the normal test.
High‐performance liquid chromatography of blue and purple indigoid natural dyes
Authors: Wouters J. , Verhecken A.
Published: July 2010

Four major components of blue and purple natural dyes of the Indigoid class were separated and spectrally characterised by high‐performance liquid chromatography: indigotin, indirubin, 6‐monobromoindigotin and 6,6′‐dibromoindigotin. It has been shown for the first time that a dyeing with a hypobranchial glandular secretion ofMurex trunculusL contains indigotin and both its mono‐and di‐substituted brominated derivative. The analytical features presented may be used to study the composition of old dyes on yarns.
Jet printing for textiles
Authors: Ahmed Ali
Published: July 2010

Since its inception, the use of jet printing technology for textiles has largely been confined to carpets. This restriction has been due to problems of low resolution and the difficulties of poor spread control, often resulting in sideways migration of the colour on flat fabrics. Ali Ahmed discusses these limitations and also highlights the potential of developing jet printing technology.
Observations of mechanisms for selected dye carriers using Rutherford backscattering spectrometry
Authors: Stinson Roberta M , Obendorf S Kay
Published: July 2010

The mechanisms of two dye carriers, anthranilic acid and salicylic acid have been investigated by observing their effects on the surface wettability of polyester film, dye uptake, and dye distribution within the film. Wettability, dye uptake and the distribution of the dye within the film were studied, the latter using Rutherford backscattering spectrometry. Both acids function as dye carriers for polyester by similar mechanisms. Anthranilic acid was found to increase the surface wettability of the film to a greater extent than did the salicylic acid, while the latter was found to give greater dye uptake and a more uniform distribution of dye. These differences have been attributed to the differences in molecular interactions between film, dye and dyebath.
An investigation of smoke generation from textile upholstery*
Authors: Smith John A
Published: July 2010

Much is known about the application of flame retardants to textile fabrics. However, there is a gap in present knowledge on the effects that these flame retardants have on smoke generation, and in the use of smoke suppressants on fabrics and other substrates. The aim of this investigation was to investigate the application and effects produced in the treatment of upholstery foam/fabric systems, with a view to laying down basic criteria for improving the treatments used. It was found that the surrounding material used, the Zirpro flame‐retarding treatment, the use of combustion‐modified foam and the use of smoke suppressants all increased smoke generation. Solvents such as water applied to the foam also greatly increased the amount of smoke generated.
An objective method for the assessment of levelness of dyed materials
Authors: Chong C L , Li S Q , Yeung K W
Published: July 2010

An objective method for the assessment of levelness of dyed materials has been established. The relative unlevelness index developed takes account of the coefficients of variation of reflectance measured over the visible spectrum, with appropriate consideration of human vision sensitivity. It was found that the index demonstrated good correlation with the visual levelness assessment.
Fixation of reactive dyes using radio‐frequency energy
Authors: Perkins Warren S
Published: July 2010

Radio‐frequency (r.f.) energy has been used to increase the fixation rate of reactive dyes on cotton fabric in pad‐batch dyeing. A parallel‐plate r.f. applicator was used to heat batches of fabric containing reactive dye formulations. The time required for fixation of the dyes was reduced from several hours to a few minutes by heating the fabric in the radio‐frequency field. Reactive dyes incorporating three different types of reactive groups, vinylsulphone, nicotinic acid, and mixed vinylsulphone/ monochlorotriazine were studied and found to be applicable using the hot pad‐batch method. The colour yield and wash fastness of dyeings with the vinylsulphone/monochlorotriazine bifunctional dyes using r.f.‐assisted fixation was equal or superior to those of dyeings performed by conventional cold pad‐batch dyeing methods.
Dyeing wool packages with continuous dosage of dye
Authors: Cegarra J. , Puente P. , Valldeperas J.
Published: July 2010

Integration dyeing of wool packages by Lanaset dyes has been examined. Absorption kinetics were found to be governed by the Cegarra‐Puente equation, giving an apparent activation energy of 104 kJ/mol. The levelness obtained by integration dyeing at various temperatures and dye concentrations were compared with that obtained by following the standard method. Similar values were observed in both systems.
The chemical composition of the indigoid dyes derived from the hypobranchial glandular secretions of Murex molluscs
Authors: Michel R H , Lazar J , McGovern P E
Published: July 2010

The composition of the indigoid dyes and their precursors derived from the hypobranchial glandular secretions of Murex trunculus and Murex brandaris have been determined by high‐resolution mass spectrometry. M trunculus secretions yielded three dyes: 6,6′‐dibromoindigotin (DBI; CI 75800), indigotin (Cl Natural Blue 1; Cl 75780) and 6‐bromoindigotin (MBI), the latter reported here for the first time. Indirubin (Cl Natural Blue 1; Cl 75790) constituted a relatively small amount of the final dye product. No statistically significant sexual differentiation in the final dye colorations was observed when the secretions were fully developed in light. When developed in the dark, male glandular secretions were more purple than those of pseudohermaphroditic females, implying that male glands contain less of the unsubstituted indoxyl precursors, which oxidatively couple in air to form blue indigotin and MBI. M brandaris yielded solely DBI and its precursor the 6‐bromo‐2‐methylthioindoxyl (tyrindoxyl); no methylsulphone precursor was observed, although reported by earlier investigators. Moreover, exposure to light was found to be critical for the formation of the greenish‐coloured intermediate 2,2′‐bis‐substituted 6,6′‐dibromo‐2,2′‐di‐indoxyl, not only for the latter's decomposition to DBI.
Light fastness and weathering tests in the automotive industry
Authors: Wootton Alan
Published: July 2010

With the exception of buying a house, the purchase of a motor car is the largest most people are likely to make. Consequently the buyer is naturally concerned about all the items that represent the final purchase. The car manufacturers have to try to meet many different needs from their potential customers, e.g. performance, fuel economy, range of colours available. They are also well aware of the damaging effects of poor publicity over faulty components, and consequently they aim to produce the best possible product at the price.
Throwing light on automotive trim testing
Authors: Hibbert Mike
Published: July 2010

Materials used in the construction of vehicles have to meet severe requirements both in terms of light stability as well as the mechanical properties of the materials used. The combined effects of solar radiation, temperature and humidity can have significant effects in terms of colour changes, and losses in strength and gloss.
Effluent improvement by source reduction of chemicals used in textile printing
Authors: Provost John R
Published: July 2010

All textile printers are now becoming very aware of the increasing pressure being placed upon them by environmental legislation. The present paper highlights these areas and discusses them in broad terms. The replacement or reduction of urea in printing is a current problem and recent work in this area is discussed.
Multicycle single‐shade high‐temperature dyeing on polyester with dispersant free disperse dyes dissolved in the presence of surfactants
Authors: Navratil J
Published: July 2010

The repeated high‐temperature dyeing of a given shade and intensity on polyester with three dispersant‐free disperse dyes dissolved in the presence of a mixture comprising an anionic and a nonionic surfactant is described. Dyeing was performed on a laboratory dyeing apparatus, the spent liquor being recycled 19 times in the case of the first dye, and nine times each for dye two and three. The dyeings were checked for levelness, reproducibility of intensity, shade and brightness, and fastness properties. The fastness properties were compared with those of conventional high‐temperature dyeings. A simple spectrophotometric method was devised to determine the dye concentration in the spent liquors. Equations to optimise the dyeing process are derived, advantages and disadvantages of the new dyeing method are discussed.
The finishing of automotive fabrics
Authors: Pearson David J
Published: July 2010

Various different fabrics are used inside cars, and these require a number of different finishing techniques. Dave Pearson looks at some of the wide range of methods used.
Dyeing properties of wool treated with liquid ammonia
Authors: Wakida Tomiji , Lee Muncheul , Sato Yukihiro , Yanai Yuichi
Published: July 2010

Wool fibre and fabric have been treated with liquid ammonia and their surface characteristics investigated by means of SEM and ESCA techniques. The treated specimens were dyed with levelling and milling acid dyes. Although no changes in nitrogen content and fibre surface properties were detected, their dyeing rate was increased considerably as was saturation dye exhaustion. Dyeing properties were similar to those of wool treated with low‐temperature plasmas by glow discharge. Fabrics treated with liquid ammonia were dyed at various temperatures in the range 30–80°C, and dye uptake was similarly increased.
Studies in the aggregation of disperse dyes
Authors: Mairal A K , Guha S B
Published: July 2010

The aggregation of disperse dyes in aqueous solution along with surfactants has been studied spectrophotometrically by Klotz's method and polarographically employing llkovic's equation by diffusion coefficient method. The extent of complex formation between dye and surfactants have been studied and compared with the determination of aggregation numbers from polarographic measurements.
Short runs and continuous dyeing: conflict or opportunity?
Authors: Hyde R F
Published: July 2010

How does the continuous dyer meet today's fashion demands for short runs and quick response? Some might answer ‘With difficulty’. Nevertheless considerable effort has been devoted by the dyestuff makers to make sure that their products are compatible with the needs of this key sector of the coloration industry. In this article Ron Hyde describes somerecent developments that enable short runs to be accommodated in the continuous dyer's repertoire.
History of yarn dyeing machinery. Part 1
Authors: Gaunt Joseph F
Published: July 2010

There have been great advances in the machines used for the dyeing of yarn since they were introduced over a century ago. In this first instalment, Joseph Gaunt traces the history of hank and cop dyeing. In the next issue, further types of package dyeing and drying will be explored.
History of yarn dyeing machinery—Part 2
Authors: Gaunt Joseph F
Published: July 2010

In this second part of his article, Joseph Gaunt looks at more recent developments in the package dyeing of yarns, and the methods which have been used for drying them.
The mechanism of fire resistance in viscose/silicic acid hybrid fibres
Authors: Heidari Shahram , Parén Aarto , Nousiainen Pertti
Published: July 2010

The incorporation of polysilicic acid into the structure of a cellulosic fibre enhances the fire resistance of the hybrid by two distinct mechanisms. One is the formation on the fibre surface of an inherently incombustible char, and the other is a lowering of thetemperature at which water is released from the fibre. This paper examines the mechanismsin question.
Waste water recycling — a case study
Authors: Wragg Peter
Published: July 2010

One way of removing colour from dyehouse effluent is by the flocculation/flotation technique, the water itself being recycled. In this article, Peter Wragg looks at such a system which has been installed in a German dyehouse, and the advantages of the process.
Preparatory processes for wool and wool blends
Authors: Steele Robert
Published: July 2010

If a substrate for dyeing is incorrectly or inconsistently prepared, then the chances of achieving a right‐first‐time dyeing are greatly reduced. In this article, Robert Steele looks at some of the factors involved.
Dyeing polypropylene fibres by means of copolymer additives
Authors: Hong Sung II , Kim Sung Tae , Lee Taek Seung
Published: July 2010

Ways of improving the dyeability of polypropylene (PP) fibres using copolymer additives have been investigated. The copolymers used consisted of stearyl methacrylate plus one of three additional components that conferred dye sites available for acid or basic dyes, or both. The synthesis and characterisation of these copolymers are described, together with the method used to incorporate them into the PP fibre. Subsequent dyeing tests showed that the copolymer additives improved dyeability on PP. The mechanical properties of the fibre were not greatly affected by the copolymer additives.
Lustre evaluation‐still an uphill task
Authors: Joshi H D , Joshi D H , Gandhi R S
Published: July 2010

Methods of evaluating the gloss of various surfaces are reviewed, particularly with respect to textile materials. The gloss of textiles, better known as lustre, has been quantified in several ways by different workers. However, none of these methods has as yet become standardised. A simple and practicable method of measurement of lustre of textiles is necessary, and this is the subject of further work.
Models for describing dyeing equilibria
Authors: Gerber H.
Published: July 2010

The Gouy‐Chapman model of the way a dye is adsorbed from a dyebath is described and compared with the traditional Donnan approach of describing this phenomenon, in order to establish which is the more suitable for studying dyeing equilibria. It is shown that the two methods are substantilly the same in terms of their usefulness. In both models there are three values to be determined: standard affinity, internal volume and fixed charge in the case of the Donnan model, and standard affinity, accessible surface and surface charge density in the case of the Gouy‐Chapman model. The latter allows a very clear representation of absorption equilibria and diffusion behaviour of direct dyes on cellulosic substrates, and of acid dyes on nylon fibres.
A procedure for estimating the mean activity coefficient of dye in fibre
Authors: Yamaguchi Yuzo , Hamada Kunihiro , Ishiwatari Tsutomu , Mitsuishi Masaru
Published: July 2010

A procedure for estimating values that are proportional to the mean activity coefficients of sodium 4′‐dialkylaminoazobenzene‐4‐sulphonates in cellophane is presented. These values are derived from the mean activity coefficients of the dye in solution, and the dye concentrations in solution and in cellophane.
Enhanced uptake of CI Direct Red 79 by cotton in the presence of certain amino acids
Authors: Riad Y , El‐Nahas H M , Hamzat S M
Published: July 2010

Pretreatment of cotton fibres with solutions of alanine, valine, ß‐phenylalanine or histidine in aqueous acetic acid increases the rate of dyeing with CI Direct Red 79 and improves the wet‐fastness properties of the dyed cotton.
Education, training and the economy
Authors: Roberts Michael
Published: July 2010

Since the economic crisis of the 1970s a whole range of policy initiatives has been introduced into the general educational framework with the aim of making education more relevant to the world of work. However, the various attempts to impose an ideology of economic utility on education have met with scepticism and criticism from many people in the education sector. This paper analyses some of the conceptual differences between education and training. It discusses how these differing concepts have contributed to debates on the nature and appropriateness of present‐day education and training to securing a healthy economy. Though not specific to education and training in the area of colour science and technology, many of the issues raised form a backdrop to the deliberations of the Society's educational committees.
The benzodifuranone chromogen and its application to disperse dyes
Authors: Greenhalgh C W , Carey J L , Hall N. , Newton D F
Published: July 2010

The senior author, Colin Greenhalgh, was awarded the Society's Perkin Medal in 1992 for his work on the development of benzodifuranone disperse dyes. This paper presents the rationale behind ICI's decision to pursue research in this field, and describes the ICI team's progress towards the development of this important new class of colorant.
The effect of dyeing rate on levelness in dyeing with disperse and reactive dyes
Authors: Imada Kunihiko , Harada Naoki , Hashizume Shuhei , Takagishi Toru
Published: July 2010

The level dyeing capacity of a particular dyeing machine can be defined by two values: the effective volume of dye liquor from which dyeing takes place and the rate at which dye liquor comes into contact with the fibre. For both disperse dyes on polyester and reactive dyes on cotton, an expression has been derived which equates the levelling capacity of a practical dyeing machine to the rate of dyeing. By using this equation it is possible to determine suitable dyeing parameters that promote levelness during dyeing.
The effect of dyeing on the hygral expansion of worsted fabrics. Part 3ndashreactive dyeing
Authors: Dodd K J , Carr C M , Baird M.
Published: July 2010

The influence of different types of reactive dye on fabric set and hygral expansion is detailed. Lanasol (α‐bromoacrylamide) reactive dyes were found to inhibit the development of set during dyeing, resulting in lower dimensional instability. The low hygral expansion is attributable to set inhibition by the fibre reactive group and to water exclusion by the presence of dye molecules. An alkaline aftertreatment is shown to result in increased fabric set and dimensional instability.
Leather dyeing
Authors: Senior Colin , Thorpe Derek
Published: July 2010

In addition to the process differences between the creation of leather and textiles, the dyeing requirements of the two substrates are somewhat dissimilar. Colin Senior and Derek Thorpe look at the dyes that can be used, and the methods employed.
Dynamic response: its impact on the textile marketing chain. Part 2‐the finisher
Authors: Bradbury Mike , Kent John
Published: July 2010

In this second instalment of their article, Mike Bradbury and John Kent look at the impact and influence the introduction of a dynamic response management style has on the finisher.
Some novel azo reactive dyes
Authors: Savel Ifrim
Published: July 2010

The synthesis of some novel azo dyes is described. They have an aldehyde auxochromic group in the dye molecule, and show promise as effective reactive dyes for wool.
Art for the floor
Authors: Houlton Sarah
Published: July 2010

Signature Carpets of Hebden Bridge specialise in creating works of art in wool‐hand‐made, one‐off carpets designed for the location in which they will be laid. Sarah Houlton went to its mill to investigate.
The developing of the wash wheel
Authors: Smith Stuart S
Published: July 2010

The current wash wheel, used for wash fastness testing, is very closely related to its predecessors. Stuart Smith tells us more.
The accessibility of cotton to anionic dyes
Authors: Ladchumananandasivam R. , Miles L W C , Hawkyard C J
Published: July 2010

Adsorption isotherms have been obtained for two direct dyes on unmercerised cotton and viscose yarns at the boil in the presence of sodium chloride. Both dyes, CI Direct Red 81 and CI Direct Green 26, show evidence of monomolecular layer adsorption. Controlled acid hydrolysis of cotton was carried out in order to remove non‐crystalline cellulose, and dye sorption values were obtained for the residues. Accessible surface areas have been calculated from the saturation values obtained from the reciprocal plots of the adsorption data. The results are interpreted in terms of a crystalline fibril model of the cotton fibre.
Comparison of stabilisers for wool bleaching with hydrogen peroxide
Authors: Cegarra J. , Gacén J. , Cayuela D. , Riva M C
Published: July 2010

The physico‐chemical, environmental and bleaching properties of three different stabilisers for use in wool bleaching with hydrogen peroxide have been compared. The various factors influencing stabiliser choice are discussed.
The dyeing of cellulosic fabrics by simultaneous application of azoic components and vinylsulphone or monochlorotriazine reactive dyes
Authors: Ethirajan P S
Published: July 2010

The paper reports preliminary work on the dyeing of cellulosic fabrics by applying vinylsulphone or monochlorotriazine reactive dyes simultaneously with an azoic coupling component.
The colour and fastness of natural saffron
Authors: Tsatsaroni E G , Eleftheriadis I C
Published: July 2010

Cotton and wool fabrics have been dyed with the aqueous extract of saffron containing α‐crocin as the main colorant species. The dyeings were carried out with and without metal salts as mordants. The wash and light fastness of the dyed fabrics was studied. The colour of the fabrics was investigated in terms of CIE L* C* H* values.