bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Measuring and Interpreting Low-Stress Fabric Mechanical and Surface Properties
Authors: Dhingra R.C. , Liu D. , Postle R.
Published: March 2008

The concept of using engineering principles as an aid in designing textile fabrics with desirable aesthetic characteristics is further developed. Fundamental to this ap proach is the measurement of fabric mechanical and surface properties, e.g., fabric tensile, shear, bending, surface, and lateral compression properties. Examples are cited of the application of these measurements to fabric finishing, drycleaning, and steam pressing, and also to the study of photodegradation effects in wool fabrics. The study has quantified the effect of scouring (during finishing of wool fabrics) and heat setting/ scouring (during finishing of wool/polyester fabrics) in reducing the rigidities and hysteresis in fabric bending and shear deformations. A marked reduction after paper pressing in fabric compressibility, thickness, and surface roughness for both wool and wool/polyester fabrics is also evaluated quantitatively. The important influence of decatizing and chemical setting on the performance of pure wool fabrics during dry cleaning and steam pressing operations is evaluated and discussed. Wool photodeg radation results in a substantial fabric tensile strength loss, marked increase in the bending and shear hysteresis and rigidities, and also a decrease in the tensile and compressional resilience.
Effect of Lubrication on Tensile, Frictional, and Weaving Properties of Sirospun Wool Yarn
Authors: Brooks J.H. , Das U.K. , Smith L.J.
Published: March 2008

The role of capillarity in improving the cohesion and tensile properties of oiled yam is discussed and experimentally tested. The effect is significant for low twist Sirospun yam and results in a lower rate of warp breaks than with a wax lubricant.
X-Ray Crystal Structure of the Dyes 2-Nitro-4'-[N,N-Bis(β- Hydroxyethyl)amino]azobenzene and 2-Cyano-4'- [N,N-Bis-(β-Hydroxyethyl)amino]azobenzene
Authors: Mcintosh S.A. , Freeman H.S. , Singh P.
Published: March 2008

X-ray diffractometer data have been used to determine the crystal structure of the 2-nitro and 2-cyano derivatives of 4'-[ N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino]azobenzene. The structures were solved by direct methods and refined by least squares to R = 0.0352 (CN) and 0.0486 (NO2) for 1294 and 2661 independent reflections, re spectively. The nitro derivative is nonplanar with a dihedral angle of 42.1° between the two phenyl rings. The effect of the nitro group on the geometry of the molecule is discussed. On the other hand, the cyano derivative possesses a planar azobenzene skeleton. The dihedral angle between the two phenyl rings is 5.5° in this case. The O(4)-atom of the nitro substituent lies very close to the N(1)-atom of the azo moiety, as had been suggested previously to account for the low lightfastness of some closely related ortho-nitro azo dyes. The C(1)—N(1),N(1)—N(2), and N(2)—C(7) bond lengths of the azobenzene skeleton are surprisingly similar for the two dyes.
Theoretical Investigations of Beat-Up
Authors: Zhonghuai Zhang  , Mohamed Mansour H.
Published: March 2008

A theoretical prediction of beat-up force and the filling yarn response to the beat- up motion taking place during weaving are made by setting up a weaving model under static and dynamic conditions. Pick-spacing, the coefficient of friction between the warp and the filling, the basic warp tensions and the ratio of tension in the warp sheets, loom speed, and shed timing are the key factors affecting the beat-up force and filling motion during beat-up.
Effect of Urea on Bleaching of Wool with Hydrogen Peroxide Under Alkaline and Acidic Conditions
Authors: Arifoglu Mustafa , Marmer William N. , Carr Christopher M.
Published: March 2008

The effect of urea on the alkaline and acidic hydrogen peroxide bleaching of wool has been investigated. There was an improvement in the whiteness of the wool or, alternatively, a considerable reduction in the bleaching time using a concentration of 100-200 g/l urea in the bleaching bath. No significant differences were observed at lower concentration of urea (less than 100 g/l) in the bleach bath. Alkali solubility of wool flannel increases with urea concentration during bleaching and often remains within tolerable limits.
Measuring and Interpreting Low-Stress Fabric Mechanical and Surface Properties
Authors: Postle R. , Dhingra R.C.
Published: March 2008

In this paper, a nonlinear optimization technique is applied to determine optimal combinations of fabric low-stress mechanical and surface properties for men's suiting materials. The optimization procedure maximizes an "objective function" for handle expressed in terms of the instrumental measurements of fabric properties reported in the first two papers of this series. Empirical relationships between subjectively assessed fabric quality attributes as well as overall handle and the objectively measured properties are used to formulate two optimization problems. Necessary constraints are imposed for the upper and lower bounds of measured properties according to data obtained for over 200 suiting materials. Results are expressed and discussed in the form of mechanical / surface property guidelines for optimizing the handle of medium / heavy and light/ medium weight fabrics corresponding approximately to winter and summer suiting materials, respectively.
Mercerization of Ramie: Comparisons with Flax and Cotton
Authors: Cheek Lenore , Roussel Laura
Published: March 2008

The effects of slack and tension mercerization on selected physical and accessibility characteristics of ramie were compared to the effects of the same treatments on flax and cotton. Slack mercerization of ramie and flax resulted in considerable losses in yam strength, while tension mercerization resulted in increased strength. Increased yarn strength was seen in both slack and tension mercerized cotton yarn. The effects of mercerization on ramie fiber cross-sectional parameters included increases in pe rimeter and area with no change in circularity. Little apparent change in fiber size or shape occurred in flax fibers, while the primary effect on cotton was increased circu larity. Increases in fiber accessibility were seen in all mercerized fibers, but the mag nitude of change in flax was approximately half of that in ramie and cotton. For all three fibers, the extent of swelling and modification in accessibility was greater under slack conditions.
NIRA Primary Wavelength Investigations of Nylon Yams
Authors: Rodgers James E. , Lee Shirley
Published: March 2008

Near infrared reflectance analysis (NIRA) is a rapid and accurate technique for measuring the heat set temperature of nylon carpet yams. Several investigations on Suessen heat set nylon 66 yams have yielded empirical prediction equations based on reflectance at three wavelengths, with 2130 nm being common to each investigation. Investigations of the derivatives of the NIRA spectra obtained from various Suessen heat set nylon 66 samples and comparisons of the NIRA spectra to other polymers have yielded new information on probable wavelength structural assignments and the probable rationale for the 2130 nm wavelength's commonality. The 2130 nm wave length is caused by a combination of the C — H stretch/C=O stretch combination and N — H deformation/N—H stretch combination, the 2100 nm wavelength is caused by C = 0 stretch combinations, and the 2270 nm wavelength is caused by various CH/CH2 stretches, bends, and deformations. The 2100 and 2130 nm wave lengths are the primary combination for correlating the crystallinity changes occurring with changing heat set temperature in nylon 66 carpet yams. Derivative spectra indicate that a consistent "slope" change occurs in the original spectra from 2100 to 2130 nm, with increasing absorption at 2100 nm and decreasing absorption at 2130 nm with increasing heat set temperature. This slope change is the driving force in the NIRA's ability to measure the heat set temperature.
Device for Producing Staple-Core / Cotton-Wrap Ring Spun Yarns
Authors: Sawhney A.P.S. , Robert K.Q. , Ruppenicker G.F.
Published: March 2008

This paper describes a device that effectively produces a unique staple-core/cotton- wrap composite yarn on a slightly modified ring spinning frame. Such a yam consists of a man-made staple fiber core that is wrapped with cotton fibers. The core provides high strength and other functional characteristics, while the wrap provides the tradi tional look, feel, and comfort of cotton. Polyester staple-core/cotton-wrap yams of coarse, medium, and medium-fine counts have been successfully produced by this new device. The yarns have been knitted on a small sample knitter without difficulty or special treatment, indicating that they can be woven without problems. A simple method of estimating the so-called "cotton sheath attachment draft" for a particular size and twist yarn is described. A computer model shows the estimated sheath at tachment drafts for 37-tex (Ne 16) polyester staple-core/cotton-wrap composite yarns spun with different twist multiples. Typical production parameters, quality test data. and magnified photographs of some staple-core yarns are provided. The test data indicate that a 38% high tenacity polyester staple-core/62% cotton-wrap yam made with the new device is stronger than an equivalent ring frame-blended (simulating intimately blended) yarn or a 100% cotton yam. The cotton wrap contributes to the overall yarn strength, although not in proportion to the percentage of cotton fibers in the yarn. Important uses of cotton-covered, polyester staple-core yarns are easy care apparel fabrics, high tenacity sewing threads, and strong pill resistant fabrics with the comfort and look of cotton.
Mercerization of Ramie: Comparisons with Flax and Cotton
Authors: Cheek Lenore , Roussel Laura
Published: March 2008

The dyeing behavior ( i.e., rate and quantity of dye take-up and color yield ) of slack and tension mercerized ramie yarn was examined. Comparisons were made between untreated and mercerized ramie yarns and similarly treated flax and cotton yarns dyed with direct dyes of varying molecular weight. The dye exhaustion patterns and depth of shade achieved by each dye on the three untreated yarns varied. After mercerization, there were increases in the rate and quantity of dye exhausted and in the depth of shade produced for all three fibers. In each case, slack mercerization resulted in higher dye sorption and more increase in color yield than tension mercerization. In general, both untreated and mercerized ramie exhibited lower dyebath exhaustion than similarly treated flax or cotton. Even with less actual dye on fiber, however, the depth of shade achieved on ramie was deeper than that produced on flax or cotton.
Efficiency of Monofunctional Reactive Dyeing : A Mathematical Analysis
Authors: Rys P. , Sperb R.P.
Published: March 2008

We present a mathematical model for the diffusion-reaction process, describing the dyeing of textile fibers with monofunctional reactive dyes. In particular, we have studied the behavior of the fixation efficiency for various dyeing conditions.
Substantivity of Various Anionic Surfactants Applied to Wool
Authors: Holt L.A. , Onorato J.
Published: March 2008

Four compounds from each of the sodium alkyl sulphate, 3-alkyl-7-hydroxy cou marin sulphonate, and alkaryl-2-pyrazoline sulphonate series of anionic surfactants were applied to wool under conditions such that equilibrium distribution would occur throughout the fibers. The treated wools were then extracted under various conditions of time, pH, and temperature, and also with various surfactants or alcohols in the extraction solutions. Aqueous extractions, even at pH 10, were relatively ineffective in removing the more surface active members of each series. Solutions containing alcohols, especially isopropanol/pH 10 buffer (1:1), were particularly effective in ex tracting the surfactants from wool. The substantivities to wool of fluorescent anionic surfactants containing coumarin or pyrazoline fluorophores are similar to those of the sodium alkyl sulphate surfactants of similar critical micelle concentration.
High Energy Radiation Effects on the Thermal Properties and Density of Nylon 6 Fibers
Authors: Ellison M.S. , Zeronian S.H. , Qinghua Xie
Published: March 2008

To study the effects of high energy radiation on the mechanical and thermal prop erties and densities of nylon 6, two different nylons were subjected to gamma and proton irradiation. Progressive irradiation with both types of irradiation at first increased crystalline content, then decreased it. The presence of oxygen during gamma irradiation caused a continuing increase in density with the decrease in the amount of crystalline material.
Single Thread Shrinkage of Polymer Treated Wool Fabrics
Authors: Guise G. Bruce , Freeland Graeme N.
Published: March 2008

Single thread shrinkage in two light-weight, plain weave wool worsted fabrics has been studied with a range of shrink-resist polymer treatments that depend on an interfiber-bonding mechanism, with different finishing treatments before polymer ap plication, and with a selection of wash tests. Single thread shrinkage generally developed from thicker than normal yams, but not all thick yams developed single thread shrink age. A staining test showed that polymer was lost more readily during washing from the thicker yam sections. It was difficult to study single thread shrinkage quantitatively, and it was necessary to make comparisons at the same level of area shrinkage, since the number of single thread shrinkage spots increased as washing progressed. The number of spots per unit area in samples washed to 10% area shrinkage varied with the polymer applied, and for one polymer treatment, the spots decreased with increasing polymer concentration. The number of single thread shrinkage spots on warp and weft yarns was different. One recommendation examined to alleviate single thread shrinkage was to pressure decatize fabrics before polymer application. Such fabrics showed improved shrink resistance with Synthappret BAP but not with other polymers. The pressure decatization did not remove single thread shrinkage; instead it was nec essary to wash treated samples for a much longer period before it became apparent.
Cuticular Scale Measurements Using Image Analysis Techniques
Authors: Robson D. , Weedall P.J. , Harwood R.J.
Published: March 2008

A method is described for examining and measuring fiber cuticular scale patterns from optical micrographs, impressions, or SEMs. The captured images are initially manipulated using several image processing functions to clarify scale structure. Image analysis is then done using a chain-coding routine that allows a number of measure ments of the scale parameters to be made quickly and accurately. Results are given for the analysis on fiber casts of four sections of different wool types and on a series of SEM photographs of Chinese cashmere and merino wool fibers.
A Model to Estimate the Breaking Elongation of High Twist Ring Spun Cotton Yarns
Authors: Aggarwal S.K.
Published: March 2008

The yarn elongation model proposed in Part I is examined for applicability to mixtures of different cottons. The results show that this model can be used to accurately estimate the elongation of high twist singles ring spun produced from mixtures of different cottons.
Measuring and Interpreting Low-Stress Fabric Mechanical and Surface Properties
Authors: Mahar T.J. , Postle R.
Published: March 2008

An investigation is presented of the levels of commonality held by panels of judges from different countries in assessing fabric handle for both summer and winter men's suiting materials. The sets of 214 winter and 156 summer fabrics used to obtain the subjective assessments and the KESF measurements of low-stress mechanical and surface properties for men's suiting fabrics form the basis of this investigation. There is a common notion of the handle of men's suiting fabrics, and superimposed on this notion are subtle national preferences and individual differences within national panels. In the case of summer fabrics, there are two notions of fabric handle: one held in common by panels from Japan and the People's Republic of China, and another held by national panels from Australia, New Zealand, India, the U.S.A., and Hong Kong and Taiwan. Individual differences between judges within a panel imply that for winter fabrics, the mean handle assessment of a national panel can be predicted by the judge whose assessments agree most strongly with the mean assessment of his national panel to only a moderate level of precision; i.e., only fabrics with differences in mean handle rating of greater than 1.6 units on a scale from 0.0 ( for unsatisfactory handle) to 5.0 (excellent handle) can be distinguished reliably. The equivalent value for the summer fabrics is approximately 3 handle grading units (on a scale of 1 to 5), based on the "Western" notion of summer fabric handle held commonly by the six countries lis ted here.
A Note on the Water-Impenetrable Component of α-Keratin Fibers
Authors: Feughelman M.
Published: March 2008

Mechanical, infrared, and x-ray data all indicate the presence of a water-impenetrable phase in a-keratin fibers consisting of 25-30% of the whole dry fiber structure. This phase corresponds to the ordered two-strand α-helical ropes formed by the interaction of hydrophobic bonds between α-helices. Coulombic interactions "protected" from the action of water by the hydrophobic bonds further stabilize the α-helical ropes, which form the crystalline α-helical structure of the microfibrils.
Preparation of Cotton Fabrics at Low Temperatures Using Persulfate Activated Hydrogen Peroxide
Authors: Sarma T.S. , Mittal R.M. , Narasimham T.
Published: March 2008

A low temperature preparatory process has been devised for cotton fabrics using persulfate activated hydrogen peroxide. Detailed laboratory experiments investigate the preparation process, which consists of treatment with hypochlorite of enzymatically desized fabric followed by combined scouring and bleaching by alkaline hydrogen peroxide activated with potassium persulfate. The peroxide treatment follows a pad- store-wash method, using a statistical plan for three variables: the concentrations of hydrogen peroxide and sodium hydroxide and the temperature of batching. A regression analysis of the data on whiteness and fluidity responses results in spatial diagrams for optimizing the concentrations of hydrogen peroxide and sodium hydroxide at 35 and 45 °C.
Pesticide Barrier Performance of Selected Nonwoven Fabrics in Laboratory Capillary and Pressure Penetration Testing
Authors: Crouse John L. , Dejonge Jacqueline O. , Calogero Frank
Published: March 2008

Laboratory spray tests have been used to evaluate the protection offered by two distinct nonwoven fabrics with and without fluorocarbon finishes. The fabrics were contaminated with dicofol field spray mix at coverage levels ranging from 50 to 200 mg/m 2, values typical of actual field exposures of pesticide spray applicators. Half the samples were subjected to an external compression pressure of 1 psi immediately after contamination (pressure penetration test). The remaining fabrics were allowed to dry without manipulation (capillary penetration test). Increasing contamination level and application of an external mechanical pressure greatly increased the pene tration of dicofol through all test fabrics. All four test fabrics provided protection against capillary penetration, usually at levels greater than 99%. In pressure penetration testing, the performance of the two unfinished fabrics was significantly better than that of the finished fabrics.
Evaluating UV Absorbers and Antioxidants for Topical Treatment of Upholstery Fabrics
Authors: Crews Patricia Cox , Clark David J.
Published: March 2008

UV absorbers and antioxidants topically applied to upholstery fabrics to reduce fading, separately and in conjunction with soil repellent finish formulations containing UV absorbers, were evaluated in this study. Over fifty upholstery fabrics were initially evaluated and fourteen were selected for further study. The fabrics were then topically treated with commercially available soil repellent finishes (a fluorocarbon and a silicone finish) containing UV absorbers or immersion-treated with one of thirteen UV ab sorbers or antioxidants. Following light exposure, color changes were evaluated visually and instrumentally. The results showed that neither the fluorocarbon nor silicone- based soil repellent finishes containing UV absorbers significantly reduced fading in the upholstery fabrics. Furthermore none of the UV absorbers and antioxidants applied to the upholstery fabrics improved lightfastness properties substantially, so they cannot be recommended as additives to soil repellent finish formulations.
Shrinkproofing Untreated Wool with Hercosett/Uvitex NFW/Hydrogen Peroxide Systems—Physicochemical Properties of These Systems
Authors: De La Maza A. , Parra J.L. , Manich A.M. , De Castellar M.D.
Published: March 2008

We have studied the physicochemical properties of dispersion systems made with a cationic Hercosett resin, the anionic optical brightener agent Uvitex NFW, and the oxidative agent hydrogen peroxide. We have also investigated the application of these systems to untreated knitted wool samples to obtain improved whiteness and shrink proofing properties, and the damage to the physicochemical properties of the keratin fibers.
Freeze Concentration of Dyes
Authors: Yang Yiqi , Ladisch Christine M. , Ladisch Michael R.
Published: March 2008

Concentration of water soluble direct, acid, basic, and reactive dyes occurs when dilute solutions are frozen at a temperature below the melting point and above the eutectic point of the solution. When freezing is done in still solution, a concentration of up to 500% is achieved in one step, with the dye solution collecting in an oblately spheroidal liquid pocket surrounded by clear ice containing voids, formed from air pockets, radiating outward. Three repetitive freezing cycles concentrate the dye 13,000%. The higher the water solubility of the dye, the lower the ability to concentrate during freezing. The freezing rate of four acid and direct dyes had no close relationship with the size of the dyes studied. Over a larger molecular weight range, an effect was observed for other kinds of molecules. Freeze concentration of salt solution (MW = 58.5 ) gives almost a 700% concentration, detergent solution (sodium dodecyl sulfate, MW = 288.4) gives 400%, and bovine serum albumin, a large water soluble macro molecule (MW = 66,200), gives 160%. A theory is presented suggesting that the concentration effect and the formation of the central sphere are consistent with min imizing of the free energy of the overall system. This simple technique may find application in the concentration of heat sensitive, labile dyes for analytical purposes, as well as in the recovery of dyes and other chemicals on a bench scale.
A Comparison of the Web-Nep Test with Other Fiber-Level Procedures for Predicting Nep-Related Dyeability Problems in Cotton
Authors: Cheek Lenore
Published: March 2008

The web-nep test for predicting dye-resistant nep formation in cotton fibers is com pared with other fiber-level evaluation procedures as a means of identifying potential cloth dyeing problems. Correlations of 0.92 were found between undyeable neps seen in the dyed webs and in the dyed cloth made from the same fibers. The web-nep test gave a better indication of the magnitude of cloth neps than did instrumental mea surements of average fiber quality, including micronaire, maturity, and linear density. Modifications in the procedure to increase the efficiency of the web-nep test are dis cussed.
Water Vapor Pressure in the Still Air Layer Adhering to Perforated Plastic Plates
Authors: Tsubouchi Kozo K.
Published: March 2008

Although relative humidity and temperature sensors have become smaller and more compact, still some bulk size persists. It is conceivable that the sensor may be im permeable to the water vapor in the zone close to the sample. The water vapor pressure in the zone was investigated using two different kinds of sensors (fiber and flat). The water vapor pressure gradients were straight, and water vapor diffusion occurred ev erywhere in the still air layer. If a flat humidity sensor is used to measure the water vapor pressure close to a sample through which vapor is diffusing, an error will result when the sensor is too close, as described in our previous paper. For a sensor 3 mm wide, a 4 mm distance is too close, but a thinner sensor such as a hair can be used down to about 1 mm.
An Empirical Model for Fabric Hand
Authors: Raheel Mastura , Jiang Liu
Published: March 2008

A method is described using the fuzzy comprehensive evaluation technique to predict fabric hand. A fuzzy transformation matrix R s is established for subjective assessment of light weight dress fabric handle. Another aspect is the development of a weighted factor vector A s for subjective analysis, which was deduced from a survey of a panel of judges ( n = 25). From these two sets of data, comprehensive fabric hand can be calculated. The calculated results showed very good agreement with the objective assessment data derived from the same mathematical model, using values of physical and mechanical properties of light weight fabrics reported in Part I of this paper.
Determining Short Fiber Content in Cotton
Authors: Zeidman Mishu I. , Batra Subhash K. , Sasser Preston E.
Published: March 2008

Based on large data sets from three consecutive cotton crop years, linear models for SFW and SFN in terms of the HVI length parameters have been developed. The necessity of modifying the Suter-Webb array distributions is justified. The results are discussed in light of the concept of "similarity" related to fiber length distributions, as defined in Part I. Using normalized regression equations, UI is demonstrated to have a stronger influence on SFC than the range parameters (UHM, ML). The terms UI, UHM, ML are standard measurements of the HVI instruments and have been defined in the text. The models developed in this study have been compared with the one developed by Preysch in 1979, and the relative improvement over Preysch's method is discussed.
Dyeing of Textiles in Supercritical Carbon Dioxide
Authors: Saus Wolfgang , Knittel Dierk , Schollmeyer Eckhard
Published: March 2008

A new dyeing process is reported for synthetic fibers and fabrics. The use of super critical fluids, especially supercritical carbon dioxide, as dyeing media completely avoids water pollution. Laboratory results are reported on the dyeing of poly(ethylene tere phthalate) and other synthetic materials and on factors influencing dye uptake and levelness. The fundamentals and future aspects of this new procedure are discussed.
Sites for Cu ( II ) Stabilization in Wool Keratin
Authors: Kokot S.
Published: March 2008

Light green copper(II)-wool samples prepared under conditions of pH < 5 have been treated for short periods at about pH 11.5. The color changes and the electron spin resonance spectra of these new samples are described. All observations are con sistent with the metal ion being transferred from the carboxylate binding sites of the light green complex to new ones involving nitrogen donor groups.
A Rapid, Direct Measurement of Short Fiber Content
Authors: Bragg Charles K. , Shofner Frederick M.
Published: March 2008

Technology for rapidly determining cotton fiber length distributions using single fiber measurements has been developed jointly by USDA-ARS and Schaffner Tech nologies (now Zellweger Uster, Inc.). The instrument (AFIS) includes a mechanism for mechanically opening a hand-fed ribbon of fibers so that individual fibers can be presented aerodynamically to an electro-optical system for measuring fiber length. Length measurements for 10,000 individual fibers can be obtained in approximately 5 minutes. Although there are measurements for the entire fiber length distribution, measurements of mean length, upper half mean length, and short fiber content are particularly important. Measurements of mean length and upper half mean length can be made rapidly with other instruments, but instruments to rapidly measure short fiber content have not been available until now. Evaluation results show good corre lations between measurements made using conventional laboratory methods and measurements using AFIS.
Effect of Ethyl Xanthogenate on Sorption of an Acid Dye on Polyester Fibers
Authors: Espinosa-Jiménez M. , Cano-Suárez A.
Published: March 2008

An investigation of the streaming potential, sorption, and electrical conductance of a porous plug of polyester fibers treated with ethyl xanthogenate and afterwards dyed with the acid dye Sirius red 4B at varying temperatures is described. The zeta potential of the polyester/potassium ethyl xanthogenate system is negative in the whole range of concentrations studied (10-6 to 10 -2 mole/liter), and the absolute value of this parameter increases when the temperature of the system is increased. Uptake of ethyl xanthogenate on the polyester in the temperature interval tested is improved by the increased temperature. These results reveal that uptake occurs with the establishment of strong chemical bonds. The zeta potential of the fiber/dye solution system is negative in the range of concentrations studied, and the absolute value of the system's zeta potential decreases markedly when the temperature increases. Dye adsorption on polyester decreases when the adsorption temperature increases, sug gesting that dye adsorption on polyester in the temperature interval tested takes place without the establishment of strong chemical bonds. The absolute value of the system's negative zeta potential decreases markedly when the amount of ethyl xanthogenate previously taken up by the fiber increases at constant temperature. Dye uptake by the pretreated polyester improves with increasing amounts of ethyl xanthogenate taken up by the fiber and with increased sorption temperature, suggesting that dye uptake with this system takes place with the establishment of strong chemical bonds. On the basis of the molecular structure of these compounds, dye uptake probably takes place by means of a nucleophilic attack of the -S- group of the ethyl xanthogenate on the carbonyl group of Sirius red 4B. The electrical conductance of the system increases with both increasing dye concentration in solution and increased sorption temperature which agrees with the hypothesis of strong chemical bonds involved in this process.
Water Transport Along Textile Fibers as Measured by an Electrical Capacitance Technique
Authors: Ito Hiraku , Muraoka Yoichiro
Published: March 2008

A new experimental apparatus has been developed for studying water transport behavior along a bundle consisting of a few textile fibers. In order to detect the small amount of water that travels along fibers, we used an electrical capacitance technique and constructed an apparatus with a specially designed electric amplifier circuit and condenser electrodes between which sample fibers are set. We studied nylon, polyester (PET), and rayon fibers and found that there exists a minimum (critical) number of constituting fibers (CNF) when water transport occurs, depending on the fiber type. These CNF values were ten, ten, and two for nylon, PET, and rayon, respectively. We discussed these results on the basis of the wettability of the fibers.
Pesticide Distribution Patterns in Two-Layer Microporous Fabrics Revealed by Scanning Electron Microscopy
Authors: Shaw Anugrah
Published: March 2008

Scanning electron microscopy was used to study relative pesticide distribution in two-layer microporous fabrics. Backscattered electron imaging and x-ray microanalysis provided a better understanding of pesticide deposition within a bicomponent micro porous membrane. An emulsifiable concentrate of diazinon was applied to three two- layer microporous fabrics; the samples were labeled with osmium tetroxide and then analyzed qualitatively. Results show that penetration of the pesticide through the microporous membrane is not uniform.
A Photometric Method for Evaluating Carpet Wear
Authors: Lamb George E.R. , Amundson Richard , Miller Bernard
Published: March 2008

To measure changes in carpet appearance due to traffic, we have built an instrument that directs a beam of light onto the carpet surface and measures the intensity of the scattered light using a photometer. Traffic increases reflection because of the generation of more bent filaments in the tufts, and the change is used as an index of how well the carpet resists distortion from mechanical stresses imposed by traffic. A correction for the initial brightness of the carpet is necessary. Angles of incidence and detection can be varied, and part of this work is aimed at finding the best combination of these angles. The agreement between appearance retention ratings obtained with the in strument and subjective visual ratings is encouraging.
Cotton Fiber Fineness Distributions and Their Effects on the Tenacities of Randomly Sampled HVI Tapered Beards: Linear Density Effects
Authors: Duckett K.E. , Zhou Z. , Krowicki R.S. , Sasser P.E.
Published: March 2008

Determining cotton fiber tenacity with high volume instrumentation (HVI) requires an accurate measure of specimen linear density. Indirect measurements of linear density such as light attenuation, by which the Zellweger Uster Spinlab HVI system accom plishes this, require additional knowledge about fiber numbers or fiber fineness, usually by introducing a Micronaire correction factor. The effectiveness of this correction is less applicable than fiber fineness determinations obtained by direct weighing methods. Furthermore, fiber fineness distribution is not accounted for, and this factor may be important to enhanced HVI technology. For purposes of discussion, length-fineness distributions by number count and direct weighing methods have been determined for twenty cotton samples using Suter-Webb sorting techniques. Ramifications of fine ness distributions across length groups on cumulative fiber fineness distribution within a randomly prepared test specimen are presented in the context of breaking load normalization by a fiber fineness indicator.
A Unique Polyester Staple-Core / Cotton-Wrap Yarn Made on a Tandem Spinning System
Authors: Sawhney A.P.S. , Kimmel L.B. , Ruppenicker G.F. , Thibodeaux D.P.
Published: March 2008

A unique, all-staple, core/wrap composite yarn of relatively fine size and low core content has been developed using the air-jet spinning and friction spinning technologies in tandem. First, a fine, high tenacity polyester staple yarn of 10-tex is spun on a Murata air-jet spinner, and this yarn is then used as the core material on a Dref-3 friction spinner. The air-jet yarn is covered with a wrap or sheath of 100% cotton fibers, producing a 30-tex, 33/67 polyester/cotton, composite yarn with a nearly 100% cotton surface. We have tested the yarn for its physical and mechanical properties, including core coverage factor and strip resistance, and compared it with the equivalent size polyester staple-core/cotton-wrap yarns produced by the USDA-patented ring spinning system. Because of the relatively fine size and low core percentage of the yarn, we were unable to produce a satisfactory comparable yarn on the Dref-3 spinner alone. The new air-jet/friction spun composite yarn can be knitted and woven without encountering stripping or other problems. This preliminary feasibility study has suc cessfully led to a unique integrated tandem spinning process that continuously and uninteruptedly produces an all-staple composite yam. The process will be reported on shortly.
Influence of Production Speed on the Tenacity and Structure of Friction Spun Yarns
Authors: Alagha M.J. , Oxenham W. , Iype C.
Published: March 2008

The structural parameters of friction spun yams are investigated using an image processing system. Attempts are made to use data obtained from this analysis to explain differences in yam strength. In particular, the influence of production speed on yarn tenacity is paralleled by changes in the observed migrational characteristics.
Heat and Moisture Transfer Through Nonwoven Fabrics
Authors: Woo Sang S. , Shalev Itzhak , Barker Roger L.
Published: March 2008

The geometric moisture diffusivity model developed by this research indicates that fiber volume fraction and shape coefficient are the most important structural parameters affecting water vapor diffusivity through nonhydrophilic nonwoven fabrics. Water vapor diffusivity decreases with increasing fiber volume fraction and decreases as the flatness of the fiber cross section increases. Although structural properties such as fiber fineness and fabric thickness affect optical porosity, their effect on water vapor diffusivity through nonhygroscopic nonwoven materials is small.
Unilamellar Lipid Bilayers as Vehicles for Azo Disperse Dyes on Wool
Authors: De La Maza A. , Parra J.L.
Published: March 2008

Unilamellar phospholipid vesicles have been examined as carriers for azo disperse dyes applied to untreated wool fibers. Liposomes were prepared with egg phosphati dylcholine and contained CI disperse orange 1 at different phospholipid/dye concen trations. The physical stability of these systems was assessed by measuring the mean vesicle size distribution of liposome suspensions after preparation and during the dyeing process. Kinetic aspects involving dye adsorption and bonding on untreated wool samples by means of unilamellar liposomes at different dye/lipid molar ratios were also investigated. This process leads to the controlled exhaustion of dye in wool fibers, which depends directly on the relationship existing between the dye and phospholipid components in liposomes, improving dye adsorption and dye-fiber bonding. The dis persing efficiency of these systems as regards the use of conventional dispersing agents has been also improved. The optimum application for both dye exhaustion and total amounts of dye bonded to the untreated wool fibers correlates directly with the dye / phospholipid weight ratio, corresponding to the maximum level of dye encapsulation efficiency of these systems in the range of phospholipids and dye studied.
Effect of Bacterial and Chemical Retting on Kenaf Fiber Quality
Authors: Ramaswamy Gita N. , Ruff Cynthia G. , Boyd Catherine R.
Published: March 2008

Decorticated kenaf stalks were retted by bacterial and chemical processes. Bacterial retting was done in troughs at a temperature of 30 ± 2°C. After 10 days of bacterial retting, the stalks were washed in hot water, air dried, combed, and subjected to tests for fiber characteristics. Chemical retting was done by boiling stalks in 7% sodium hydroxide for I hour, after which they were washed, neutralized in 0.2% acetic acid. washed, air dried, and combed. Fiber characteristics such as bundle strength, elongation at break, color, luster, reed length, and gum content were compared for fibers extracted by both processes. Bundle strength, gum content, and reed length were lower for chemically retted fibers as compared with bacterially retted fibers. Gum content of bacterially retted fibers was uniform, and they were superior in luster. Residual gum content of bacterially retted fibers was 21-23% versus 7-12% for chemically retted fibers. Fiber quality from bacterial retting was superior, but a method that combines bacterial and chemical processing may have some merit. The feasibility of large-scale chemical retting and incorporation of fibers into nonwoven and woven textiles is being investigated.
Modeling the Bending Stiffness of Point Bonded Nonwoven Fabrics
Authors: Patel Suneer Vipin , Warner Steven B.
Published: March 2008

A simple method for predicting the bending behavior of point bonded nonwoven fabrics has been developed. Proven theories found in the literature have been combined using elementary geometry and probability to produce a method to calculate the bend ing rigidity of nonwoven fabrics based on the properties of the constituent fibers and the fabric's construction. Pattern-bonded polypropylene and polyester fabrics, both spunbonded and bonded carded web, have been analyzed. The theoretical results agree with experimental values of bending stiffness.
Physical Properties of Wool Treated with Multifunctional Epoxides
Authors: Muraoka Yoichiro , Ito Hiraku , Umehara Ryo , Shibata Yutaka , Miyamoto Takeaki
Published: March 2008

We have investigated the physical properties of tropical wool fabrics. Samples were woven with yam from loose fibers treated with a water soluble multifunctional epoxide, i.e., glycerol polyglycidyl ether (GPE) in an aqueous medium catalyzed with a reductive agent (Na2S2O5) in the presence and absence of saturated NaCl. The resin treatment stiffened the fabrics somewhat and decreased their ability to regain moisture a little. Scanning electron microscopy revealed a difference in the abrasive breakdown pattern between the GPE/saturated aqueous NaCl treated wool and the untreated one. A good state of preservation of the hydrophobic nature of the scale surface after treatment was confirmed by soiling measurements of the wool with an oleophilic mixture/carbon black complex. There were fewer carbon black particle deposits in surfactant solution on the untreated and GPE/saturated aqueous NaCl treated wool than on the GPE/ H2O treated wool.
A Modified Theory of Fiber Contact in General Fiber Assemblies
Authors: Komori Takashi , Itoh Motoyoshi
Published: March 2008

An earlier idealized theory of fiber contact by Komori and Makishima is modified on the same geometric-probabilistic basis by taking account of steric hindrances be tween fibers. A new characteristic fiber length called the persistent length is introduced to define the basic fiber segments that can be treated as independent statistical elements. The theory predicts that steric hindrance between fibers brings about two opposite effects on fiber contact: on the one hand, it diminishes the chance of contact by restricting the free fiber length on which a new contact may be formed, and on the other hand, it enhances contact by narrowing the free volume in the mass where a fiber can be located without touching the contact parts formed earlier. The total of these two determines the probability of contact, which depends strongly on the per sistent fiber length. The exclusion effect is formulated by a self-consistent mean-field analysis and evaluated explicitly for two idealized fibrous systems (2D and 3D random assemblies).
Determining Cotton Fiber Maturity by Image Analysis
Authors: Matic-Leigh Rose , Cauthen Debra A.
Published: March 2008

Image analysis presents a quick, reliable, unbiased technique for determining cotton fiber maturity. This research entails developing sampling techniques for cotton fiber cross sections and creating a computer program to measure fiber characteristics directly by image analysis. A 10 minute (approximate) fiber/ resin embedding procedure was developed for microscopic slide preparation. Direct measurements of cotton fiber cross-sectional characteristics were collected by the program created for the image system. Wall thickness, ribbon width (cross-sectional diameter), maturity factor, ma turity ratio (maturity), and degree of thickening were derived from the measured fiber characteristics. Direct determination of cotton fiber maturity by image analysis as performed in this research appears promising.
A Device for On-Line Measurement of Fiber Birefringence
Authors: Mortimer S.A. , Peguy A.A.
Published: March 2008

A device for on-line measurements of fiber birefringence is described. The system consists of a double beam detection method coupled to an interference fringe device, allowing a quasi-simultaneous measurement of the diameter. A sensitive determination of birefringence is possible using this method. An example is given of an application to a fiber spun from a solution of cellulose in aqueous N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide.
Fabric Defect Detection and Classification Using Image Analysis
Authors: Zhang Yixiang Frank , Bresee Randall R.
Published: March 2008

Conventional image analysis hardware was used to image solid-shade, unpattemed, woven fabrics. Two different software approaches for detecting and classifying knot and slub defects were studied and compared. The approaches were based on either gray level statistics or morphological operations. The autocorrelation function was used for both methods to identify fabric structural repeat units, and statistical or morphological computations were based on these units. Plain weave and twill weave fabrics were used to compare the performance of each software approach.
Mechanics of Woven Fabrics
Authors: Seyam A. , El-Shiekh Aly
Published: March 2008

Properties of fabrics woven from regular warp yarns and filling yarns with periodic mass variation are studied in terms of weavability limit parameters. Four variables are varied systematically and their relationships with fabric properties investigated. These are pick density, probability of overlap p (the ratio of double the thick place length of filling yam to the wave length), yarn balance β' (the ratio of the thick place diameter of the filling yam to the warp yarn diameter), and weave design. Statistical analyses (regression, general linear model, TUKEY, and REGWQ multiple comparison, and analysis of variance) demonstrate that the four weavability limit parameters sig nificantly influence the fabric properties investigated. The study shows that fancy fabrics from yams with mass variation can be constructed to meet predetermined properties.
Structure-Property Relationships of PAN Precursor Fibers During Thermo-oxidative Stabilization
Authors: Mukhopadhyay S.K. , Zhu Y.
Published: March 2008

Oxidative stabilization of polyacrylonitrile (PAN) precursor fibers is a vital step in producing carbon fibers. We have attempted to investigate changes in the mechanical properties and structure of the precursor fibers throughout this process. Wide-angle x-ray diffraction measurements, tensile properties, and SEM studies reveal the actual process of transformation of the original PAN structure to the ladder polymer. The crystalline structure transforms to the amorphous phase during the stabilization process. Structural transformation also results in a considerable drop in mechanical properties.
Low Chrome Dyeing: Eliminating Cr(VI) in the Exhausted Bath by Using Cr(III) as the Mordant
Authors: Xing J. , Pailthorpe M.T.
Published: March 2008

Previous work examined the performance of sulphamic acid and rare earth in the afterchrome dyeing of wool using the dichromate process. This paper describes a dyeing method that uses a complex of Cr(III) to afterchrome mordant dyes and so completely eliminates Cr(VI) from the effluent. 5-Sulphosalicylic acid, sodium salt (SSA) was selected as an efficient ligand for complexing with Cr(III) to form a special chelate compound (SSA-CrIII). This compound is named the "complexing carrier," since it is of great value in carrying Cr(III) into wool and transferring the Cr(III) ion to the chrome dyestuffs already taken up by the wool to make the mordanting possible. The optimum molecular ratio of SSA to Cr(III) in the chelate compound and the methodology for testing the pickup ratio of SSA onto wool have been established through much laboratory work. The mordanting results indicate that satisfactory hue, good color fastness, and improved handle are imparted to wool fibers when compared with the dyeing results obtained through the conventional mordanting process. After allowing for desorption of SAA during the alkali solubility test, the alkali solubility of the dyed wool after the new mordanting method is similar to that obtained after conventional afterchrome dyeing with dichromate.
Theory and Practice of Cotton Fiber Selection
Authors: El Mogahzy Yehia E. , Gowayed Yasser
Published: March 2008

This part of the study demonstrates the complex nature of variability in multi component blends and the effectiveness of bale picking schemes in handling this com plexity, using analysis of variance. Such analysis provides useful guides in the selecting fibers for uniform blending. Critical factors affecting mix uniformity are examined, including population variability, location of category break points, number of cate gories, and laydown size. Methods for optimizing blend uniformity in view of the effects of these factors are recommended.