bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
The Torsional Rigidity of Blend Yarns
Authors: Zurek Witold , Durska Iwona
Published: March 2008

The variation of the coefficient of shear modulus for blended yarns deviates slightly from a linear relationship, based upon the relative amounts of the components present in the yarn, being more nearly linear as the twist decreases. For yarns having lower twist factors there is a good correlation between experimental and calculated data. In the case of yarns with higher twist, calculated values may be higher than those observed experimentally. Reasons for this difference are given. Equations are presented that will permit rapid calculation of approximate results; other equations presented will give more accurate results but will require painstaking calculation.
X-Ray Characterization of Viscose Rayon and the Significance of Crystallinity on Tensile Properties
Authors: Hindeleh A.M.
Published: March 2008

The paper suggests the analysis of the x-ray diffraction trace of viscose rayon by the correlation- crystallinity index method for routine assessment of crystalline order in samples composed of cellulose II, and by the multipeak-resolution method for special analysis of crystallinity and crystallite size in samples composed of either cellulose II only or cellulose II + cellulose IV. Sets of samples of viscose rayon produced under controlled conditions are x-ray characterized, the tensile properties are measured, and the significance of crystallinity on tensile properties is sought.
Production of Polyethylene Fibers and their Optical Properties and Radial Differences in Orientation
Authors: Hamza A.A. , Fouda I.M. , El-Farhaty K.A. , Badawy Y.K.
Published: March 2008

An apparatus was designed to produce polyethelene fibers of varying diameters ranging from 40 to 220 μm. The diameter of the produced fibers was measured from the forward scattering of a He-Ne laser beam at 632.8 mm. The Becke line method was used to measure the refractive indices of the outer layer of the fiber (skin). Interferometric methods were applied for the determination of the refractive index of the inner layer of the fiber (core) and the mean refractive indices of the fiber for light vibrating parallel and perpendicular to its axis. Also a technique, based upon an analysis of the back-scattered light when a laser beam impinges perpendicular to the fiber axis, was applied to deter mine the mean refractive index. The measured values are presented and found to be in agreement with those of the interferometric methods.
Fabric Hand: Tactile Sensory Assessment
Authors: Winakor Geitel , Kim Charles J. , Wolins Leroy
Published: March 2008

The assessment of fabric hand involves two major classes of variables: fabrics as stimuli with certain physical properties, and people as judges with certain traits. This research investigated the tactile sensory assessment of selected fabrics that varied in specified physical dimensions—namely : stiffness, roughness, and thickness—replicated in two fiber contents: cotton and polyester. In the analysis- of-variance design, physical dimensions of fabrics were taken as fixed, rather than random, variables, and judges as blocks. The subjective-hand properties were measured by polar adjectives using a 99-point certainty scale, transformed to normal deviates.

Sensory responses of judges to the nine pairs of polar adjectives differed significantly with respect to all four main effects: fiber content, stiffness, roughness, and thickness. The sensitivity of the 99-point certainty scale resulted in a wide range of F values; various interactions were clarified by graphic analysis. Editing of data for suspected errors in responses caused few changes in the ANOVA results.
The Wettability of Scoured and Dried Cotton Fabrics
Authors: De Boer J.J.
Published: March 2008

The effect of scouring and drying on the wettability of cotton fabric is examined. The phenomenon of hydrophilicity is mainly determined by the competitive effects of spreading among the fibers and absorption in the fibers. Special attention is paid to the influence of surface active agents. A number of tests covering both aspects of the wetting process are discussed.
Prediction of Bundle Strength From Single-Fiber Test Data
Authors: Nachane R.P. , Krishna Iyer K.R.
Published: March 2008

A theory is developed for predicting the strength of a bundle of sufficiently large number of elements, if the average breaking load and the breaking-elongation distribution of these elements are known. The usefulness of the theory is illustrated with data on cotton fibers.
Comparative Assessment of GORETEX™ and NEOPRENE™ Vapor Barriers in a Firefighter Turn-Out Coat
Authors: Reischl Uwe , Stransky Alfred
Published: March 2008

A series of 18 laboratory tests using one male and two female subjects was carried out to assess the impact of a GORETEXTM barrier and a NEOPRENE™ vapor barrier on the ventilation characteristics of a firefighter turn-out coat. Clothing air-space temperatures were monitored while test subjects performed under a standardized treadmill exercise protocol. It was found that a GORETEX barrier contributed to lower clothing heat build-up than did a NEOPRENE vapor barrier. The improved heat dissipation characteristics of the GORETEX barrier may reduce heat stress and improve comfort for firefighters during firefighting operations.
Axial Drag Coefficients of Cotton Fibers
Authors: Hemstreet James M. , Taylor Robert A.
Published: March 2008

The axial drag coefficients of individual, long-staple cotton fibers are measured in an electric field at low Reynold's numbers. The electric force, as a function of field strength E, is measured for each fiber. The fiber is then mounted in a wind tunnel between plane parallel electrodes with a field E aligned in the flow direction. When the fiber collapses in the airstream, the field E and the flow velocity are measured, and the drag force is calculated. The results are in good agreement with Higuchi and Katsu's work, and the drag force is approximately half the value of Taylor's measurement of cross-flow of drag—that is, Cd = 4.4295 Re-0.8145.
Wool/Polymer Interactions
Authors: Bateup B.O. , Lorenz O. , Souren I.
Published: March 2008

No relationship was observed between polymer shrink-resist effectiveness (SRE) and gravimetric swelling in water of films formed from anionic polyesterurethane dispersions. However, there was a linear relationship between SRE and stress measured at 100% elongation of the swollen films. Polymer SRE depended upon the amount of unreacted isocyanate groups in the dispersion at the time of appli cation to the fabric. Polymer properties changed with the counterion and the concentrations of ionic groups and urea groups. A good linear relationship between wool/polymer adhesion and polymer SRE was established using single wool fibers and several of the polymers. It is postulated that the presence of unreacted isocyanate groups in the dispersion changes the surface component of adhesion and therefore influences the polymer SRE.
Some Observations on Aldehyde—Sulfurous Acid Treatments in Durable-Press Finishing
Authors: Daigle Donald J. , Reinhardt Robert M.
Published: March 2008

Cotton printcloth finished with crosslinking agents such as formaldehyde, glyoxal, dimethyloldi hydroxyethyleneurea, and dimethylolmethoxyethyl carbamate with sulfurous acid in different ratios contained sulfur after washing and drying. Methods of analyses such as ion-exchange, acid-base titration, and electron spectroscopy for chemical analysis (ESCA) have indicated the major type of sulfur derivative bound to the cellulose. A mechanism is proposed to explain incorporation of sulfur in the finished cotton.
A Contribution to the Study of Optical Properties of Fibers with Irregular Transverse Sections
Authors: Hamza A.A.
Published: March 2008

A new method is suggested by the complementary use of the interference and scanning electron microscopy to measure the mean refractive indices and birefringence of fibers having irregular trans verse section. '
Mechanistic Aspects of Phosphorus-Nitrogen Synergism in Cotton Flame Retardancy
Authors: Pandya H.B. , Bhagwat M.M.
Published: March 2008

N,N',N"-Triethyl phosphoratriamide and ethyl,N,N'diethyl phosphoradiamidate are not able to phosphorylate cellulose even at 160°C. The increased efficacy of these reagents as flame retardants for cotton has been proposed due to the formation of intermediates containing -P=N grouping by loss of an amine molecule from these compounds at an elevated temperature (> 200°C) in the first step. In the subsequent step, cellulose may add across the P=N bond of this intermediate to give phosphoryl cellulose. An appreciable amount of phosphorus has been incorporated in cellulose by reaction at ≃200°C with compounds formed on thermolysis of phosphoratriamides.
Liquid Ammonia Mercerization of Jute Fiber
Authors: Mukherjee A.C. , Mukhopadhyay A.K. , Sarkar B.K. , Dutt A.S. , Mukhopadhyay U.
Published: March 2008

Changes in the mechanical properties and fine structure of jute fiber on treatment with liquid ammonia have been discussed. It is found that liquid ammonia treatment increases the extensibility of jute fiber without any loss of strength and is thus a desirable swelling agent from the practical point of view, because though caustic soda produces considerable improvement in extensibility of the fiber, it also causes considerable loss of strength due to removal of part of the hemicellulose. The fine structure of the fiber shows a transformation from cellulose I to cellulose III on liquid ammonia treatment followed by removal of ammonia by evaporation in nitrogen atmosphere, whereas the structure reverts to the cellulose I configuration when ammonia is removed by washing in water. X-ray, infrared, density, and moisture-absorption data for the treated fibers are discussed.
Influence of Belts on Tensile Properties of Rotor-Spun Yarns
Authors: Sengupta A.K. , Dutta B. , Radhakrishnaiah P.
Published: March 2008

A small percentage of long fiber belts in a short-staple rotor-spun yarn improves the strength of the yarn, due to the reinforcement of yarn matrix through belts. It is observed that these long belts extend during tensile straining of the yarn and thereby increase the lateral compression on the yarn matrix. Cyclic stressing at 60% of average breaking extension shows that the presence of long fiber belts restricts fiber slippage during axial straining and reduces the extent of permanent deformation. The removal of belts of long fibers tends to produce similar tenacities in the cotton core.
Washed Cotton—Manufacture, Properties, and Processing Part I: Experimental Program1
Authors: Ross S.E. , Gibbs A.H. , Trexler J.E. , Riser W.H.
Published: March 2008

Investigations dealing with the washing of cotton of sample sizes ranging from 1 to 10,000 pounds (.45 to 4,536 kg) have been carried out. Processes have included both batch-washing of loose fiber and continuous washing of fiber in lap form. The optimum technique has been shown to be that of continuously washing cotton in lap form with 66°C water on rayon staple fiber manufacturing equipment. Results of the washing experiments have shown that approximately the same amount of material is removed by washing at water temperatures of 60 to 100°C. Fiber washed in this way has shown reduced respirable dust levels in carding and reduced gram-negative bacteria and endotoxin levels. Carding of this cotton in a model card room also elicited lower worker FEV1 (forced expiratory volume in one second) reaction than unwashed cotton. This cotton was converted into 100% cotton and 50/50 cotton/polyester ring and open-end yarns and fabrics at normal production speeds.
Processing Performance and Yarn Quality of Unopened-Boll-Harvested Cotton1
Authors: Cocke Joseph B. , Anthony W. Stanley , Laird J. Weldon , Wesley Richard A.
Published: March 2008

The processing performance of unopened-boll-harvested cotton was inferior to that of normally-harvested cotton, characterized primarily by fibers sticking to the rolls of processing machinery. The stickiness was attributed to high sugar levels. Yarn quality of unopened-boll cotton was equal to or superior to that of the normally-harvested cotton. Dust levels produced by unopened-boll cottons during carding were signifi cantly lower than those produced by normally-harvested cotton.
Costs of Producing and Processing Closed-Boll Cotton1
Authors: Bargeron J.D. , Shaw Dale L. , Brown Roger S. , Ethridge Don E.
Published: March 2008

Harvesting cotton in closed bolls may be a method of excluding biologically active byssinotic agents from seed-cotton and reducing textile mill dust levels. The closed-boll cotton would be machine-stripped, dried, and stored in modules until ginning. Estimates of cost and performance, from harvesting through yarn manufacturing, suggest that using cotton from closed bolls may be economically feasible.
Microprocessor Improves Wool Fiber-Length Measurements and Extends the Application 1
Authors: Grignet J.
Published: March 2008

The Almeter AL-100 is a new version of the Almeter instrument for the measure ment of the fiber length, using a microprocessor instead of analog computing circuits for the calculation of the distribution and the corresponding parameters. In this paper the different forms of fiber-length distribution given by the new instrument: hauteur (close to numerical), barbe (biased by weight), and tuft are explained. The different histograms, cumulative diagrams, and tables of parameters obtained on a digital display or in print-out are shown. A general description of the instrument, including the sample-preparation technique, is given and illustrated by photographs. The applications of the fiber-length measurement are reviewed and illustrated by two examples. A detailed technical description and several other examples of applications will be given in Parts II and III, forthcoming.
Protective Clothing Fabrics
Authors: Benisek L. , Edmondson G.K.
Published: March 2008

Laboratory small-scale tests for the evaluation of the performance of fabrics against molten steel, cast iron, copper, aluminum, zinc, lead, and tin were developed. The results of the small-scale molten iron and copper tests were verified by a large-scale test. Zirpro wool fabrics offered the best protection against the molten metals evaluated, followed by untreated cotton. Two organophosphorus-based flame- retardants adversely affected the performance of cotton against molten aluminum and zinc, and to a lesser degree against lead and tin. Glass, asbestos, and aramid fabrics were not suitable for protection against most metals. Possible explanations for the performance of the individual fibers and molten metals evaluated are given.
Modifications of Cotton Cellulose Surfaces by Use of Radiofrequency Cold Plasmas and Characterization of Surface Changes by ESCA
Authors: Benerito Ruth R. , Ward Truman L. , Soignet Donald M. , Hinojosa O.
Published: March 2008

Radiofrequency (rf) cold plasmas of argon, nitrogen, and air were used to modify cotton fabrics and yarns. Changes in surface characteristics were detected by application of the techniques of electron emission spectroscopy for chemical analyses (ESCA), electron spin resonance, and chemiluminescence. Examples of polymeriza tion of selected monomers and depolymerization of chemically modified cottons within rf plasmas have been used to illustrate potentials of combinations of plasmas and ESCA in cellulose chemistry.
A Route and Mechanism for Improved Abrasion Resistance in Durable-Press Cotton
Authors: Shih Frederick F. , Rowland Stanley P.
Published: March 2008

The addition of phosphate salts to the reaction of N-methylol-methacrylamide (NMMA) and cotton resulted in improved textile properties, more so for the addition of combined salts of NaH2PO4 and Na2HPO4 than for either salt alone. The NMMA-phosphate-cotton product generally displayed better overall balance of durable-press performance than did either the N-methylolacrylamide (NMA) coun terpart or the NMMA product treated with NMMA partially replaced by N- methoxymethylmethacrylamide (MMMA) or methacrylamide (MA). Phosphate salts delayed etherification between NMMA and cotton and enhanced vinyl polymeri zation of NMMA in cotton; and the partial replacement of NMMA by MMMA or MA seemed only to repress etherification crosslinking. The NMMA-phosphate-cotton product was characterized by minimal swelling in cuene, coarse fibrillation-type failure from flex-abrasion, and slightly elevated values of moisture regain, water of imbibition, and dye sorption. The beneficial effects of phosphate salts are attributed to the generation of a network polymer that effectively binds together microstructural units in a less-than-normally rigid structure.
Reagent Migration and the Performance of Durable-Press Fabrics
Authors: Bertoniere Noelie R. , King Walter D. , Rowland Stanley P.
Published: March 2008

In order to delineate the effects on reagent migration on the textile-performance properties of durable-press fabrics, dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) and N-methylolpolyethyleneurea, degree of polymerization = 2, were applied to cotton printcloth under slow and rapid drying conditions, which effected uniform and nonuniform crosslink distributions through the fabric thickness. These reagents are representative of conventional and network polymer forming cross-linking reagents, respectively. The crosslink uniformity (or nonuniformity) was measured in the DMDHEU series with a negative Direct Red 81 staining technique. Fabrics with a uniform distribution of crosslinks throughout the fabric thickness were the point of reference. The concentration of crosslinks on fabric surfaces effected by reagent migration during rapid drying resulted in a) comparable development of resilience, b) slightly better retentions of breaking strength, tearing strength, and elongation, c) greater weight losses in Accelerotor abrasion, and d) comparable retention of Stoll-flex abrasion resistance. These trends occurred with both reagent systems and were detected at both the low and high levels of reagent incorporation. The results are discussed in relation to the distribution of crosslinks.
Foam Finishing of Wool and Wool-Blend Fabrics
Authors: Smith Chad P.
Published: March 2008

Foam application of finishing chemicals can yield reduced water add-on and energy savings in fabric-finishing operations. Initial work in a study of foam application of chemicals to wool and wool-blend fabrics is reported. The foam application system used is the Foam Finishing Technology (FFT) System developed by Union Carbide Corporation. It was found that the finishing chemicals could be suitably foamed and applied to the fabrics on lab-scale equipment. Laboratory applications of chemicals for shrinkage resistance and water/oil repellency were made on five fabrics (wool or wool blend) at wet pick-ups from 15 to 30%. Wet-on-wet applications were made as well as applications to dry fabrics. Test results on treated fabrics indicate that foam applications of finishing chemicals by FFT to fabrics of this type are feasible.
Influence of pH in Washing on the Formaldehyde-Release Properties of Durable-Press Cotton
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Kottes Andrews B.A. , Harper Robert J.
Published: March 2008

Application of buffered solutions to test specimens in the AATCC jar test revealed the important role of pH on the formaldehyde-release properties of durable-press cottons. The relationship between pH in washing and formaldehyde release was established for various durable-press finishing systems (agent/catalyst treatment combinations). Based upon this information, differences and seemingly inconsistent formaldehyde-release values from the washing of finished fabrics can be explained. Generally, the pH range for best formaldehyde-release properties is between pH 3 and pH 7. Laundering at various geographical sites gave results that correlate with the pH of the wash water; these data showed that formaldehyde release increases with wash-water pH.
Determination of Free Formaldehyde on Cloth at Low Concentrations'
Authors: Floyd W.C. , Yoon S.H.
Published: March 2008

When the AATCC Test Method 112-1978 is used to determine free formaldehyde on cloth, the accuracy and precision become progressively poorer as the level of free formaldehyde drops below 200 μg/g (ppm).

Because of the introduction of new cellulose reactants, which yield ultra-low levels of formaldehyde on cloth, a modified analytical procedure has been developed that gives accurate and reproducible results with formaldehyde content on cloth in the range of 15 to 175 μg/g.

This paper provides details of the colorimetric procedure, which is based on use of 3-methyl-2-benzothiazolinone hydrazone in lieu of the Nash reagent. No additional equipment is necessary.
Reagents for Low-Formaldehyde Finishing of Textiles
Authors: Petersen H. , Pai P.S.
Published: March 2008

The most important reactants for finishing textiles are the N-methylol compounds. They not only crosslink with the cellulose but also split up to form formaldehyde. To decrease the content of formaldehyde on the fabrics finished with N-methylol compounds, a very efficient fog-chamber technique using solutions of special formal dehyde-binding substances was developed, which reduces the liberation of formalde hyde on finished fabrics to levels below 100 ppm, according to the AATCC Sealed Jar Test Method 112—1975.

Low-formaldehyde finishing agents can be prepared by etherifying the methylol groups with alcohols. Fabrics finished with N-alkoxymethyl compounds give off less formaldehyde than those finished with the corresponding unetherified methylol compounds. A few examples are demonstrated. Using the basics of statistical experi mental designs, it was possible to optimize a finishing process with a partly etherified dimethylol-4.5-dihydroxyethyleneurea to obtain simultaneously all desired levels of properties, including a low level of formaldehyde release.

A new class of crosslinking agents is described with a nonformaldehyde-containing reactive group beside a N-methylol or N-alkoxymethyl group as a second reactive group on the base of 4-hydroxy- and 4-alkoxy-cycloalkyleneureas. The optimum of application conditions to obtain the desired properties was derived from the results of experimental designs.

Another class of crosslinking agents for easy-care, antipilling, and hydrophilic finishing of polyester/cotton fabrics, where cotton is equal or less than 50% in the blend, was developed on the base of polyfunctional carbamates. In comparison to the methylol compounds of cyclic ureas, these products show a higher molecular weight. They are ideal for the swelling and crosslinking of cellulose under heat conditions and provide a smooth, pleasing hand to the finished fabric. This class of reactants exhibits lower abrasion loss than glyoxal reactants and shows less development of unpleasant formaldehyde odor on treated fabrics than most of the usual glyoxal-based reactants.
Low-Formaldehyde Finishing in Production
Authors: Lee Wayland R. , Smith Louis W. , Hoffman Julian H.
Published: March 2008

The relative importance of the contribution of the various chemical structures present in the fabric to the total formaldehyde-evolution potential of the fabric will vary with the reactant used and finishing conditions. Experience and limited studies with dynamic air-flow systems indicate a correlation between AATCC Test Method 112-1975 results and formaldehyde evolution from the fabric during storage and use. The chemical structure of the reactant nucleus is more important than formalde hyde mole ratios in determining formaldehyde-evolution potential. Methylation of reactants greatly improves their formaldehyde-evolution potential. Proprietary prod ucts can afford even lower formaldehyde-evolution potential. Shifts in equilibria on dilution can increase unreacted formaldehyde in reactants.

Nitrate salts or modified magnesium chloride catalysts give good results. Exces sively strong catalysts are detrimental. Relatively high fixation levels are needed to achieve low formaldehyde-evolution potential. Alkalis or buffers have an adverse effect. A near neutral pH on the finished fabric is advantageous.
The Prediction of the Yield of Wool by Near-Infrared ReHectance Spectroscopy
Authors: Connell J.P. , Norris K.H.
Published: March 2008

The prediction of wool base of greasy wool in the form of miniature cores from digitized near-infrared reflectance spectra is demonstrated. This secondary calibra tion method combines measurements of reflectance at several wavelengths in a multiple linear regression equation for a prediction of wool base. A variety of methods of selecting suitable wavelengths for prediction was employed. Suitable wavelengths could not be selected from considering the spectra of the components, or from the statistical properties of the spectral data. A combination of an exhaustive search and the forward stepwise addition method applied over the spectral range gave the best selection of wavelengths. For the population of 42 samples studied, the error of the calibration is similar in magnitude to that of the conventional gravimetric test.
Applications of the Trace Gas Technique in Clothing Comfort
Authors: Harter K.L. , Spivak S.M. , Yeh K. , Vigo T.L.
Published: March 2008

A laboratory appartus employing a trace gas technique has been developed to systematically study the effects of fabric and garment properties on microclimate ventilation in a simulated garment assembly. Nitrogen was used to flush the microcli mate enclosure, and the rate of atmospheric oxygen build-up in the system was traced. The gas exchange was assumed to have first-order kinetics. A new parameter, areal ventilation rate, that takes into account the microclimate volume and the fabric surface area, has been developed. External wind effects were simulated by conducting experiments in still air and in the presence of forced air flow. The results show that in still air, fabric air permeability has an insignificant effect on areal ventilation rate. However, with increasing external air flow, the effect of air permeability becomes more pronounced. Areal ventilation values are found to increase linearly with increasing external air velocities, and the influence of fabric constructional variables increase accordingly. The combined effects of permeability and air velocity on areal ventilation rate are interpreted in terms of a previously derived empirical equation. Simulation of garment openings did not have a significant effect on the ventilation rate, illustrating that small air passages are of less significance than flow through the fabric itself.
Electrical Stimulation of Fabric Filtration
Authors: Lamb G.E.R. , Costanza P.A.
Published: March 2008

With zero airflow, the currents passing between parallel wires in contact with a fabric appear to be the sum of corona currents and of non-ohmic conduction currents. The origins of the latter are not clear. Wheo an aerosol is flowing, electrode currents increase with increasing air velocity. Part of this effect seems due to charges carried on the aerosol particles, and part may be due to distortion of the ion cloud by the moving air stream.

Pressure-drop reduction by external electric fields generated with wire electrodes occurs in two ranges: below corona voltages there is a small dependence on applied field, while above that voltage the dependence is much steeper. It is assumed that the latter case is the result of heavier particle-charging by the ion cloud. It seems, therefore, that corona-charging of the aerosol can play an important role in reducing pressure drop by ESFF. However, another mechanism appears to operate—one which becomes apparent if fabrics with different degrees of packing density are compared. Then, the pressure-drop dependence on applied field shifts with changing packing density in a manner, that suggests the onset of additional polarization effects.
Studies on Structural Deformities in Egyptian Cotton Fibers
Authors: El-Sahhar Kassem F. , Al-Ashwat Ali A. , Soliman Ahmed S.
Published: March 2008

This study deals with fiber deformities in thirteen cultivars of Egyptian cotton, namely: Giza 45, Giza 70, Menoufi, Giza 68, Giza 76, and Giza 77 of the long-staple category, Giza 67, Giza 69, Giza 75, and Dandora of the long-medium-staple category, and Giza 66, Giza 72, and Ashmouni of the medium staple category.

The cotton fiber deformities were classified major and minor according to their frequency. The major fiber deformities included thin fiber, knee, knot, small spur, and large spur, whereas the minor fiber deformities included forked and protuberant fibers. Difference in number of fiber deformities among the studied cultivars, types of fiber deformities, and the interaction between number and type of fiber deformities differed statistically.

Fiber deformities occurred in about ½ to 2/3 of the developing neps, ensuring their troublesome role in the cotton textile industry. Neps were classified into groups according to number of fiber deformities associated with each, in order to evaluate the role of fiber deformities in neppiness.
Thermal Performance Improvement of Window Drape Configurations
Authors: Hassenboehler C.B. , Donoghue M.J.
Published: March 2008

Heat transfer through draped windows was studied to identify and test the insulative potential of drapery materials and configurations on a window in a test wall apparatus. Free flow of room air through the window-drape cavity was found to produce dramatic losses in the insulating properties of drapes. Variations of open-bag and wind-screen draping configurations made of conventional drape materials reduced window thermal transmittance values by 50%, a reduction equal to that expected from converting heat transfer from a free convective mode to a conductive mode at the window glass/room air interface. Materials with ideal properties for control of radiative and conductive heat flow were also used as draping elements to quantify the performance levels of the drapes configured to impede natural convection. Simulated drapery materials having radiation barriers configured to minimize air flow were as effective as double pane windows.
Antibacterial Fiber Treatments and Disinfection1
Authors: Vigo Tyrone L. , Benjaminson M. Aaron
Published: March 2008

Developments and research in the present decade on the antibacterial finishing and disinfection of textiles are reviewed. Definitions and concepts of terms such as antimicrobial agent, antibacterial agent, disinfectant, and sanitizers are discussed from both a regulatory and scientific perspective. Quantitative tests for determining antibacterial activity of textiles usually involve sterilization of fabric, inoculation with a microorganism, and determination of bacteria remaining by wash-recovery or colony-count under a low-power microscope. Most qualitative tests for antibacterial activity are based on the ability of the agent to diffuse off the fiber into an agar medium. Most antifungal tests consist of inoculation of fabric, then inspection for visual growth of fungi after varying periods of time.

Microbial ecology of the skin-clothing interface differs in everyday environments and situations from environments conducive to growth of microorganisms and cross- infection ; predominant bacteria and fungi and microbial population on different parts of the body are discussed in this context. Microorganism persistence on textiles is influenced to some extent by fiber type. Recent studies show that synthetics retain more odor-causing bacteria, and that dermatophytic fungi are more persistent on synthetics than on natural fibers; persistence time of pathogenic bacteria,on natural and synthetic fibers is dependent on relative humidity and method of fabric contami nation.

Newer and commercialized processes for producing antibacterial fabrics durable to laundering are evaluated, and frequently-used disinfectants and sanitizers for textiles are stressed. Various techniques for affixing such agents to fibers are listed, and requirements for producing effective antibacterial and antifungal fibers for particular end-uses are enumerated. Some novel and recent uses for antibacterial fibers, such as water disinfection and air purification, are also mentioned.
The Contribution of Humidification and Cooling Systems to Cotton Dust Levels in a Textile Mill
Authors: Roberts Eugene C. , Rossano Anthony J. , McKay Douglas L.
Published: March 2008

A weave room with approximately 1,000 operating looms was selected for a study of the contribution of dissolved solids from air-washer water and atomizer water to cotton dust levels. In a plant trial, air-washer water solids were found to contribute less than 1 μg/m3 for each 100 mg/l. of dissolved solids; this was determined by the use of LiCl added to the air-washer as a tracer. However, atomizer-water solids contributed 360 μg/m3 to cotton dust levels in the present study. This determination was made by the comparison of cotton dust concentrations measured during atomization of steam condensate. The Mg content of cotton dust samples taken in this weave room was far in excess of the natural abundance level found in samples from areas of the mill not requiring atomization. The Mg concentration of the well water used for atomization was found to be a suitable tracer for the contribution of dissolved solids to the measured cotton dust concentrations.
The Mechanics of Carpet Wear
Authors: Carnaby Garth A.
Published: March 2008

An analysis of the various mechanisms involved in carpet wear has provided the general form of a relationship between carpet thickness and the number of treads on the carpet. The possible applications of this approach in wear testing are discussed.
Agriparticulate Reference Materials: Theory of the in situ Native Standard Method to Verify Particulate Burden in Cotton
Authors: Montalvo Joseph G.
Published: March 2008

A fundamental approach is presented to verify the total particulate burden in cotton reference material. The method is founded on a null hypothesis. The hypothesis states that upon rendering a cotton free of foreign material, the recoverable particulate-lint ith property constant λi (for example, color) of the calibrated mixture is equal to that for the in situ particulate constant, ψi. Cotton is mechanically cleaned by cycling through a mechanical cleaner. Particulates recoverable from cleaning are added back to the cleaned lint, and the ith property is measured to facilitate computation of λi. Cleaned lint spiked with recoverable particulates constitutes a native standard. Assuming that λi = ψi, an apparent particulate concentration in the uncleaned material is computed by measuring the in situ property value. The spiking process is repeated, and different properties are measured. Means of apparent in situ partioulate levels as determined from various properties are measured. Means of apparent in situ particulate levels as determined from various properties are compared to decide which groups, if any, differ because of rejection of the null hypothesis. Particulate burden in the reference material is the average of the accepted group means. The method is demonstrated on ginned cotton.
Studies of Solvent Dyeing
Authors: Siddiqui Sarfraz A.
Published: March 2008

To improve the dyeing behavior of disperse dyes using organic solvents with respect to solubility parameter, a series of azo disperse dyes were synthesized from nitro phenylamines and amino anthraquinone by coupling with 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine. These dyes have low solubility in organic solvents and high affinity for polyethylene terephthalate. The solubility parameter of each azo dye was determined by the Small's group molar constant method, using the determined value of three functional groups: i.e. —NH 2 (aromatic), —NO2 (aromatic), and —N=N—(aromatic), and also confirmed by the solubility method.
The Effects of an Aqueous Medium on the Structure and Physical Properties of a Polyester Yarn
Authors: Knox B.H. , Scott M.G. , Weigmann H.-D. , Rebenfeld L.
Published: March 2008

The effects of an aqueous-dodecylsulfate solution buffered to pH 5 at 100°C on the structure and physical properties of an oriented semicrystalline PET yarn were measured as a function of time. Chain relaxation resulting in longitudinal shrinkage is shown to be the primary molecular event, and crystallization to be a secondary process involving the newly-relaxed amorphous chains. Four major structural events are observed: 1) longitudinal shrinkage, 2) crystallization leading to structural stabiliza tion, 3) surface stress concentration, and 4) rapid hydrolysis and decline in molecular weight following surface cracking of the fibers to relieve surface stress concentrations. Comparison of the effects of aqueous, thermal, and solvent (dimethylformamide) treatments of PET suggests that the molecular mechanisms and kinetics of aqueous and of thermally-induced changes are similar. Solvent-induced changes are to a large extent controlled by diffusion processes. Aqueous and solvent-treated PET are similar, in that there is an increase in structural "porosity" as a result of crystallization in the swollen state.
Oily-Soil Release for Easy-Care Cotton Fabrics1
Authors: Latta Bruce M. , Sello Stephen B.
Published: March 2008

When crosslinked polyester-cotton blend fabrics came into general use about fifteen years ago, problems of soil retention that are inherent with these fabrics were soon recognized. Many studies were conducted to identify the factors responsible for soiling and soil retention in blends, and to develop finishes capable of improving soil release.

Several finishes for the improvement of the soil-release properties of blend fabrics have been developed and introduced commercially. These finishes are typically based on one of three polymer types: nonionic poly(ester-ethers); anionic copolymers of acrylic acid; or "dual-action" fluoropolymers. Two particular finishes, developed in our laboratory, that are based on combinations of Huoropolymers with hydrophilic reagents, such as polyether derivatives and acrylic acid polymers, are discussed in detail.
Properties of Yarns and Fabrics Produced from High-Cotton-Content Blends with Polyester Fibers
Authors: Ruppenicker George F. , Kullman Russell M.H.
Published: March 2008

Polyesters ranging in tenacity from 238 kN . m/kg (3.0g/d) to 583 kN . m/kg (6.6 g/d), in elongation from 24% to 41%, and in fineness from 0.139 mg/m (1.25 d) to 0.250 mg/m (2.25 d) were blended with combed cotton (minimum 20% polyester, maximum 40% polyester) and evaluated in both woven and knitted fabric structures. The best overall performance in fabric strength and abrasion resistance was obtained with the finest, high-tenacity fiber, but the fine fiber caused some pilling problems in knitted structures. Results showed that full-performance-treated fabrics with accept able strength and abrasion resistance could be produced from blends of 70% to 75% cotton with the fine, high-tenacity polyester.
The Relation Between the Number of Sulphonic Groups in Acid Dyes and the Yield Stress of Dyed Nylon Monofilament
Authors: Suganuma Keiko
Published: March 2008

Studies have been made of the relation between the number of sulphonic groups in acid dyes and the yield stress of dyed nylon monofilament. The three dyes—mono-, di-, and tribasic azo dyes, which have α-naphthylamine → β-naphthol as a skeletal structure—were applied to nylon filament in a range of concentrations, and the yield stress of the dyed one was measured.

The yield stress of the dyed nylon filament is larger than that of undyed one. It increases with increase in the dye concentration in the filament. But the effect seems to be much smaller when dyeing takes place on the terminal amine groups than when overdyeing. The concentration of dye in the filament in which the amine groups become saturated decreases with increasing sulphonation, so that in the same concentration of dye in the filament the yield stress increases with increasing sulphonation, and apparently the number of sulphonic groups seems to have an effect on the yield stress.

But the careful treatment reveals that the net effect of dyes on the yield stress is independent of the number of sulphonic groups in dyes. This suggests that a polybasic dye behaves as a monobasic one in a region of overdyeing.
Recovery from Creasing and Mussing of Cotton Finished with Experimental and Conventional Durable-Press Reageots
Authors: Gonzales Elwood J. , Rowland Stanley P.
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabric finished with experimental reagent systems, N-methylolacrylamide (NMA) plus phosphate salts, N-methylolmethacrylamide (NMMA), NMMA plus phosphate salts, and N-methylolpolyethyleneurea, dp = 2, (NMP-2), showed different rates of recovery from creasing and mussing in laundering tumble-drying, compared to cottons finished with conventional crosslinking reagents, dimethylolethyleneurea (DMEU), dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU), and formaldehyde. At similar levels of conditioned wrinkle-recovery angle (WRA) or durable-press (DP), fabric treated with experimental reagent systems recovered from creasing (WRA) more slowly in the initial period (6 seconds) but more rapidly in the second period of measurement (1 minute) than those treated with conventional reagents. The fabric treated with experimental reagent systems recovered from mussing more rapidly in the initial period (15 minutes) and less rapidly in the second period of measurement (1 hour).
A Rapid and Reproducible Transfer Soiling Method
Authors: Dave A.M. , Kissa Erik
Published: March 2008

A rapid and realistic soiling method has been developed using polyurethane cubes to transfer soil to fabric samples. Four 2 to 2.5-cm cubes, cut from commonly available polyurethane foam, and a measured amount of soil are rotated in an Accelerotor for 1 minute at 2000 rpm. Two 10 × 10-cm fabric samples are placed into the chamber of the Accelerotor and rotated together with the soiled cubes for 1 I minute, or longer if desired. The soiling level can be varied by varying the amount of soil placed on the cubes from barely visible (less than 1% owf) to a saturation level. Both the soiling level and the mechanical work performed during soiling can be varied by a variation of soiling time, rotational speed, or both. Soils applicable by this method include oily soils, grease, particulate soils, and mixtures of fatty soils with particulate matter. Soiling is highly uniform, reproducible, and believed to simulate natural soiling of textiles in contact with skin. Soiling of repellent fabrics also is uniform, even at very low soiling levels.
On the Radial Variation of Spiral Angle in the Cotton Fiber
Authors: Duckett K.E. , Ramey H.H.
Published: March 2008

Two current models of fibrillar orientation in the cotton fiber were examined in light of x-ray orientation measurements on six cultivars at four different stages of maturity. Neither the constant-spiral-angle nor the constant-gyre-length models for S2 secondary-wall fibrillar orientation satisfactorily explains the observations. A rapid decrease in spiral angle in the outermost diurnal layers, after which constancy in spiral angle is approached, explains the observations best.
Kinetics of Hydrolysis of Dichlorotriazinyl Reactive Azo Dyes
Authors: Fisichella S. , Occhipinti S. , Alberghina G. , Amato M.E.
Published: March 2008

The rate of hydrolysis of some dichlorotriazinyl reactive azo dyes is measured where the triazinyl-ring is attached to a derivative of H-acid in the buffer solutions over the range 25-35°C. The rate constants obtained at constant pH are pseudo-first-order, but they are dependent on the concentration of hydroxyl ion. This dependence of the hydrolysis constants on the hydroxyl ion concentration is explained, supposing that, as the pH of the dye solution increases, ionization of the phenolic hydroxyl group at the 8-positioh in the naphthalene ring occurs to give a less reactive ionized form.
X-Ray Orientation Measurements of Cotton Fibers Using Yarn Samples
Authors: Kalyanaraman A.R.
Published: March 2008

The x-ray orientation of fibers could be estimated with the sample in the form of yarn. The ratio of the x-ray orientation to the same measure in yarn form seems to have a correlation with yarn count. Also, as count increases, the orientation of fibers as measured in the form of yarn approaches the orientation of the free fiber. This paper suggests a quick, nondestructive estimation of fiber orientation which may have extensive application in production-monitoring and archeology.
Application of Sonic Wave Theory to the Measurement of the Dynamic Elastic Moduli of Woven and Knitted Fabrics
Authors: Ryan A. , Postle R.
Published: March 2008

The dynamic elastic modulus is one of the fundamental properties of textile materials and also one of the most difficult to quantify. The development of sonic methods to measure this property results in a test that is simple and nondestructive as well as being independent of sample cross-sectional characteristics.

A brief survey of the literature based on this technique reveals both the limited application of theory and also the limited range of test samples and conditions that have been treated, especially in the fabric area.

The fundamental theory of dynamic modulus measurement and the theory of sonic wave propagation is developed in this paper and is applied to series of laboratory- produced and commercially-produced fabrics.

Three separate series of experiments are undertaken to quantify the effects of fabric parameters (i.e. yarn crimp, degree of set, and fiber diameter) and yarn on the principal dynamic elastic moduli and the dynamic shear modulus for both woven and knitted fabrics. These experimental results show that the method predicts the configuration of fibers in fabrics and yarns.

The indications are that this work can be expanded by the use of microprocessors and computers to predict fabric specifications from fiber and yarn properties. The application of this technique to quality and process control is also discussed.
The Cotton Particulates Analyzer—Design and Evaluation
Authors: Deluca L.B. , Montalvo J.G.
Published: March 2008

The feasibility of the Southern Regional Research Center's cotton particulates analyzer (CPA) was studied. The lint, fly, dust, and trash fractions of cotton are dynamically separated and recovered by mechanical and pneumatic means, and material losses from ginned cotton, when processed by the CPA, are statistically insignificant. Analysis by difference, heretofore required because of a significant loss of material when the Shirley Analyzer was used, has been eliminated.
Air Permeability of Fabrics Made from Unique and Conventional Yarns
Authors: Kullman Russell M.H. , Graham Clarence O. , Ruppenicker George F.
Published: March 2008

Air permeabilities for two woven fabric constructions having common warps but different filling yarns were measured. The filling yarns were produced by ring spinning, open-end spinning, core-wrapping with filament, and a no-twist process. Comparison of air permeabilities of the woven fabrics were made in the gray and bleached states. The effects of yarn structure, yarn twist, yarn crimp, and filament wrapping are discussed in relation to their effects on the air permeability of the two woven fabrics.
Evaluation of Annealed Poly(ethylene Terephthalate) Structures by Gas Chromatography
Authors: Kirby R.D. , Cates David M.
Published: March 2008

Solvent-crystallized, ground PET fibers were used in a gas chromatographic column as the stationary phase and subjected in situ to increasingly severe thermal treatment. After each treatment, an homologous series of hydrocarbons was passed through the column as molecular probes. After an initial reduction in surface sonption that was produced by heat treatment at 145°C, no further change was effected by heat, up to 175°C. Above 175°C, surface sorption decreased, while internal bulk partitioning increased, indicating marked internal changes of structure.