bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
The effect of carriers on the dyeing of Courtelle S
Authors: Aitken D , Burkinshaw S M
Published: July 2010

The extent to which the uptake of CI Basic Blue 3 on Courtelle S tow was enhanced by three derivatives of benzyl alcohol was found to be proportional to the amount of each carrier adsorbed by the fibre, with maximum dye uptake coinciding with maximum uptake of carrier by the fibre. Although the maximum extent of uptake of each carrier corresponded approximately to the aqueous solubility of the carrier at the dyeing temperature (80°C) used, results from a previous study on the carrier action of benzyl alcohol on Courtelle S were employed to demonstrate that maximum uptake of all four carriers was not simply related to aqueous solubilty. The solubility parameter concept was used to demonstrate that the maximum extent of carrier uptake was related to the δa value of the carrier. The linear relationship obtained between the maximum extent of uptake of each carrier and the δa value of the carriers was considered to demonstrate that polar forces primarily contribute to carrier—acrylic fibre interaction.
Photochromism of yellow azo dyes: a specific phenomenon of cotton dyed with reactive dyes
Authors: Fritzsche K
Published: July 2010

A method that is more sensitive than the ISO standard procedure for the detection and assessment of photochromism has been developed using a colour measuring device. Using this method the photochromism of various yellow azo reactive dyes applied to cotton has been studied. This has shown that azo dyes that can form a hydrazone tautomer tend not to be photochromic. In particular for pyrazole and hydroxynaphthalene azo dyes, the colour change is too small to be perceived by the human eye. Furthermore photochromism decreases with increasing size of the aromatic moieties attached to the azo group, as well as with the increasing number of substituents located ortho to the azo linkage. Finally the photochromism of dyeings with the golden yellow chromophore of structure IV was reduced when they were finished with certain Knittex brands.
Keeping colour and design in trim
Authors: Rees Ken
Published: July 2010

Experience has shown that possible car purchasers are not only looking for the 16‐valve, fuel injection engine, automatic sunroof and power steering, but good colour and fabric design as well. For the colour and trim specialist, the car is like a mobile playground in which a host of designs are possible. Ken Rees charts the early days of automotive fabrics and suggests that the correct use of colour could turn your Trabant into the ultimate dream machine!
Really fast colours!— automotive paint finishes
Authors: Abel Adrian
Published: July 2010

The improved performance of modern cars has been matched by a similar improvement in the quality of the paint finish, resulting in brighter colours, better corrosion resistance and longer gloss retention. Adrian Abel provides some background to the improvements that have been made.
The influence of finishing agents on the performance of fibres during electrostatic flocking
Authors: Ingamells W , Ramadan N
Published: July 2010

The significance of the finishing process for the preparation of flock fibres is discussed. The performance of nylon 6.6 flock fibres at different stages in the manufacture of flocked fabrics has been examined in the laboratory after the application of various finishing treatments to the fibres. The results demonstrate the interrelation between the various requirements for producing fibres with satisfactory movement in an electrostatic field and their behaviour at other stages of the flocking process.
Batchwise dyeing processes using electromagnetic energy for heating
Authors: Deruaz Jean‐Pierre , Roussy Georges , Thiebaut Jean‐Marie , Wattiez Daniel
Published: July 2010

The role of electromagnetic heating in batchwise dyeing processes has been investigated. It has been shown that electromagnetic heating offers smoother and more homogeneous heating profiles than are possible with many conventional techniques.
Research and development: a view from academia
Authors: Wardman Roger
Published: July 2010

Over the last decade the conditions for carrying out reserach and development within British academic institutions have changed dramatically. Increased efficiency standards set by central government have meant that funding for R & D projects has become more and more limited. Roger Wardman presents a view from academia.
The aftertreatment of wool dyeings to obtain improved wet fastness
Authors: Lewis D M
Published: July 2010

This review discusses the important improvements in wet fastness achievable on aftertreatment of wool dyeings with a variety of systems. Many of these aftertreatments are routinely used by the industry but some are still essentially of research interest only.
New cationic agents for improving the dyeability of cellulose fibres. Part 1 — pretreating cotton with polyepichlorohydrin‐amine polymers for improving dyeability with direct dyes
Authors: Wu T S , Chen K M
Published: July 2010

Cotton fibres were treated with polyepichlorohydrin—dimethylamine and dyed with a selection of direct dyes. The pretreatment was found to reduce the amount of sodium chloride needed, and to increase exhaustion efficiency and perspiration fastness. The preparation and chemical characteristics of polyepichlorohydrin‐dimetnylamine, the dyeing of the modified cotton and the quality of the direct dyeings are also discussed.
Are natural colorants good for your health?
Authors: Glover Brian , Pierce Jeffrey H
Published: July 2010

The world has become increasingly aware of environmental issues through discussions about the greenhouse effect, ozone layer depreciation, water pollution and waste disposal. The role of the chemical industry in introducing contaminants into the environment has been much criticised. But how far can this be justified? Brian Glover and Jeff Pierce discuss the issues as seen by one of the world's major colorant manufacturers.
Textile wet processing and the environment
Authors: Lomas Mike
Published: July 2010

Textile wet processors have come in for a lot of criticism over the last decade. The sector's association with toxic chemicals and the occasional environmental horror‐story has stained its image somewhat. Today, however, companies are working towards more stringent standards and efforts are being made to switch to cleaner processes. Mike Lomas speaks on behalf of the defence.
Latest developments in the low‐temperature dyeing of wool with 1:2 metal‐complex and milling acid dyes*
Authors: Doran A
Published: July 2010

The advantages of dyeing wool at low temperatures with metal‐complex and milling acid dyes are examined. Details of variations in conventional dyeing practice are discussed in detail and recommendations for applying selected dyes are given. The cost implications of dyeing at temperatures below the boil are reviewed, and some techniques for the low‐temperature dyeing of woo/nylon blends briefly mentioned.
An FTIR spectroscopic study of the photodegradation and thermal degradation of wool
Authors: Carr C M , Lewis D M
Published: July 2010

The effect of sunlight on untreated, sulphamic acid‐treated and FBA‐treated wool has been investigated using infra‐red spectroscopy coupled with second‐derivative spectral analysis. The effect of heat on untreated and treated wool fabrics has also been studied. Changes in the oxidised cystine species were observed as a result of both thermal oxidation and photo‐oxidation.
Improved compatibility of disperse dye mixtures using levelling agent—assessment through hue angle measurement
Authors: Shukla S R , Dhuri S S
Published: July 2010

The compatibility of a mixture of disperse dyes in equal proportions having similar hues (all in the red‐yellow quadrant of the colour space) has been assessed at different applied depths on polyester fabric, with and without levelling agent, using plots of hue angle against KIS values. The plots were found to be useful in indicating the improvement in the compatibility of dyes at higher applied depths attributable to the addition of a nonionic levelling agent.
Controlling the amount of air in steamers
Authors: Isarin J C , Holweg R B M
Published: July 2010

Vat dyes are fixed on printed fabric by steaming. Increasing understanding of the key parameters may lead to improved product quality and a reduction in the amount of dyestuffs, ancillary chemicals and steam required. Conditions in a closed steamer were recorded, and the oxygen concentration, which plays a major role in this process, measured with a zirconia analyser. The results obtained showed that maintaining the oxygen concentration in the steamer at an extremely low level was a prerequisite for ensuring that the fabric had the desired quality. The amount of oxygen in the steamer gave the best indication of when the unit was ready for use. It was also shown that better control of the processing conditions could lead to reductions of up to 40% in steam throughput.
Environmental aspects of textile processing
Authors: Hickman William S
Published: July 2010

The paper outlines some developments in ‘clean’ textile technology and discusses opportunities for effluent treatment with peroxy compounds. Particular aspects dealt with are elimination of organohalogen compounds (AOX) from cotton bleaching and wool shrinkproofing, energy and COD reduction in the continuous preparation of cotton and its blends, dye oxidation without chromium compounds, and the removal of colour from dyehouse effluent.
The stocking's escape from the cocoon
Authors: Pearson Geoffrey P
Published: July 2010

Nylon, invented in the 1930s, was the first truly synthetic fibre and initiated a revolution in the textile industry. In this article, Geoff Pearson traces its history.
Synthetic reflectance curves by additive mixing
Authors: Hawkyard C J
Published: July 2010

A method of producing a reflectance curve for a given set of CIE tristimulus values, based on additive mixing of red, green and blue primaries, is described. Smooth data representing colours having good colour constancy are obtained. The method is computationally efficient, even when a large number of data points is required.
New cationic agents for improving the dyeability of cellulosic fibres. Part 3 — the interaction between direct dyes and polyepichlorohydrin‐dimethylamine polymers
Authors: Wu T S , Chen K M
Published: July 2010

Interactions of Cl Direct Orange 39 and Cl Direct Blue 78 with a series of polyepichlorohydrin‐dimethylamine polymers of different molecular mass have been studied by a spectrophotometric method. Polymers of higher molecular mass at low concentration favoured the formation of polymer‐dye complexes. The spectra of the resulting complexes were also examined.
Crystal data for CI Solvent Brown 1
Authors: Whitaker A
Published: July 2010

Single‐crystal data and an X‐ray powder pattern are reported for CI Solvent Brown 1 (2,4‐diaminophenylazo‐1‐naphthalene). The powder pattern has been indexed from cell dimensions obtained from single‐crystal measurements. The problems of multiple indexing have been reduced by comparing the powder data with observed single‐crystal structure factors.
Finishing synthetic fibre fabrics
Authors: Fisher Andrew
Published: July 2010

Although they can be made from a wide range of fibres, the techniques used for finishing different synthetic fabrics are very similar. In this article, Andrew Fisher looks at some of the most important ones.
Disperse dyes: hetarylazo derivatives from dichloro‐2‐aminobenzothiazoles
Authors: Peters A T , Taebi A , Yang S S
Published: July 2010

The synthesis of 4,5‐, 4,6‐, 4,7‐ and 5,7‐dichloro‐2‐aminobenzothiazoles is reported. Diazotisation of these and coupling to N‐substituted anilines affords orange‐red to blue dyes which have excellent coloration and good light fastness properties on polyester. The colour of the dyes is discussed with respect to the orientation of the chloro substituents and compared also with dichloro‐4‐aminoazobenzene analogues and to established colorants based on 5,6(6,7)‐dichloro‐2‐aminobenzothiazole.
The effect of dye characteristics on their compatibility in mixtures as assessed through colour coordinates
Authors: Shukla S R , Dhuri S S
Published: July 2010

Three different binary mixtures prepared by mixing disperse dyes having close hues were applied to polyester fabric at 4.0% total depth. The compatibility of dyes in these binary mixtures was assessed qualitatively through use of various plots constructed from the differences in the CIELAB colour coordinates δL*, δa*, δb* and δC*ab with respect to the undyed substrate, as well as the hue angle and K/S values. The compatibility behaviour shown by the three binary mixtures in the absence and the presence of levelling agent has been explained on the basis of molecular mass and colour strength of the component dyes.
Design of high fastness acid dyes for silk: a chemometric approach
Authors: de Giorgi M Rita , Cerniani Ado , Carpignano Rosarina , Savarino Piero
Published: July 2010

A chemometric strategy tor the design of acid dyes for silk is reported. A small set of representative dyes was selected by the technique of fractional factorial design, using the principal properties of the substituents as design variables. The selected dyes were synthesised and fastness properties on silk were measured. Wash fastness and light fastness values were related to the chemical structure by the partial least squares (PLS) method. The models were used to predict the fastness of new dyes of the same class and to optimise the structure.
Dyeing for the microscope
Authors: Bracegirdle Brian
Published: July 2010

To understand the need to colour specimens artificially for viewing under the microscope, we must recall that the image has to have two essentials. First, it must have enough resolution to show the details at the required magnification. It is easy to magnify a germ to the size of a table top, but there is no point in doing this with the light microscope because the germ would look like a formless mass. Second, there has to be contrast in the image. If there is a fully resolved picture with no contrast, you can see nothing! Against this background, Brian Bracegirdle tells the story of how dyes and pigments came to be an essential tool of microscopy.
Keith McLaren —colourist and communicator
Authors: McDonald Roderick
Published: July 2010

Keith McLaren, who died in 1990, was one of this century's most active workers in colour science and technology. His influence in the fields of colour fastness testing and colour measurement was of particular importance. The Society decided to hold a lecture in his memory, to be presented by Roderick McDonald, another well known colour scientist and a friend of Keith McLaren's. The lecture was presented at Dyers' Hall, London, on 19 March 1992. Reproduced below is Dr McDonald's detailed insight into the career of a unique contributor to the world of colour.
Monitoring and control of hydrogen peroxide dosing
Authors: Ravensbergen D W , Holweg R B M
Published: July 2010

A new method is described for continuously monitoring hydrogen peroxide and sodium hydroxide concentrations in impregnation baths used for bleaching woven cotton fabrics. A series of industrial tests were carried out using this new method in which concentrations were monitored and then controlled by regulated dosing.
The thermal memory of acrylic fibres
Authors: Gacén J , Maillo J
Published: July 2010

The dyeing operation produces significant decreases in the differential solubility of acrylic fibres with different percentage of relaxation. It has also been observed that the solubility differences found between substrates having different relaxation properties are largely preserved after a blind dyeing treatment has been carried out. The differential solubility technique using a mixture of dimethylformamide and water has been used to characterise their structure, and it has been found that acrylic fibres possess a good thermal memory.
Carpet dyeing in the 1990s.
Authors: Park James
Published: July 2010

Following on from Part 1 of his article in the previous issue of the Journal, the author takes an in‐depth look at the coloration of carpets by various batchwise processes, offering an insight into this quite complex area of technology. He finishes by detailing some of the services that any carpet dyer would find essential to a successful business.
New cationic agents for improving the dyeability of cellulose fibres. Part 2‐pretreating cotton with polyepichlorohydrin‐amine polymers for improving dyeability with reactive dyes
Authors: Wu T S , Chen K M
Published: July 2010

Pretreatment of cotton with polyepichlorohydrin‐dimethylamine produces a modified cotton that can be dyed under neutral conditions with selected low‐reactivity dyes using a small amount of salt or with selected high‐reactivity dyes without salt. The dyeings of treated cotton exhibit improved colour yield and high wash fastness. The properties and the quality of the reactive dyeings are discussed.
Silk finishing with epoxides
Authors: Xiaojun Peng , Jitao Wang , Jie Sun
Published: July 2010

The pad‐dry‐steam and pad‐dry‐bake finishing of tussah silk fabric with triglycidyl ether of glycerol in the presence of catalysts has been investigated. Potassium thiocyanate was found to be the most effective accelerating agent for this purpose. The optimum treatment conditions for either steaming or baking are discussed. The reaction mechanism involving the formation of an epithioxide intermediate is proposed and was confirmed by determination of the sulphur content of the fabric. The processes described could be readily adapted for commercial exploitation.
Colorants in inks for writing, drawing and marking
Authors: Pfingstag Gerhard
Published: July 2010

From a very early age we all use pens for writing and drawing. Yet we tend give little consideration to the inks used for these important activities, taking their good light fastness and durability for granted. This article discusses the requirements for effective writing, drawing and marking inks, and identifies the major colorants used.
The effect of various chromium species on wool keratin*
Authors: Lewis D M , Yan G
Published: July 2010

The effects of different chromium species and chroming processes on wool keratin have been studied. Infra‐red studies revealed that in dichromate‐treated wool the disulphides oxidise mainly to Bunte salt residues (S‐thiosulphate). As expected, trivalent chromium treatments produce little or no oxidative degradation of wool keratin. These results were supported by fibre strength tests and SEM observations.
Characterisation of Mn(n) complexes with 2‐(2‐pyridylmethyleneamino)phenol and their dyeing properties
Authors: Grabaric Z , Koprivanac N , Mesinovic A , Parac‐Osterman D , Grabaric B S
Published: July 2010

The complexing of the azomethine dye 2‐(2‐pyridylmethyleneamino)phenol (PMAP) with the divalent manganese ion in solution has been investigated. The synthesis of an Mn(II)—PMAP complex is described, together with its characterisation by infra‐red and mass spectrometry. The properties of the Mn(II)—PMAP complex for dyeing wool and nylon 6.6 fabrics have been investigated.
Indigo dyeing of cotton denim yarn: correlating theory with practice
Authors: Etters J N
Published: July 2010

The previously reported correlations in indigo dyeing of cotton denim between distribution of indigo in the cross‐section of denim yarn, colour yield and dyebath pH are reviewed. Statistical analysis reveals that even with the experimental uncertainty of the absolute pKa values associated with the ionisation of the reduced form of indigo, distribution of indigo in the denim yarn cross‐section and the resulting colour yield still are strongly correlated with dyebath pH.
BS 7750 and environmental management
Authors: Smith Colin
Published: July 2010

The British Standard environmental management system, BS 7750, was introduced recently. In this article, Colin Smith gives some guidelines for its implementation.
Right‐first‐timendasha new approach
Authors: Browning Simon
Published: July 2010

Computer control of dyehouse operations is the modern method to increase the chances of achieving right‐first‐time dyeings. Here, Simon Browning looks at some of the considerations for computerising the dyehouse.
The reduction of vat dyes by indirect electrolysis
Authors: Bechtold T , Burtscher E , Turcanu A , Bobleter O
Published: July 2010

The reduction of vat dyes by an indirect electrolytic process is described. The dyeing procedure and the relevant dyeing parameters for this new reduction technique are discussed. The dyeing results are comparable with those obtained by standard experiments using sodium dithionite. After removal by filtration techniques of the remaining dye from the exhausted dyebath, regeneration of the reducing agent by cathodic reduction is possible. The results demonstrate the applicability of this reduction method for larger‐scale vat dyeing procedures.
Flammabilityndashthe environment and the green movement
Authors: Holme Ian
Published: July 2010

The flammability of textile fibres can have a significant effect on the environment In this article, Ian Holme looks at textile fibre flammability from an environmental angle, and discusses the importance of ecolabelling.
Advances in artificial intelligence for the colour industry
Authors: Westland S.
Published: July 2010

The use of artificial intelligence in finding solutions to traditional and emergent colorimetric problems is reviewed. Developments in artificial intelligence are briefly discussed and some of the more prominent ideas are described. Rather than give the complete background to specific technologies that are being used, the author considers the application of these technologies. Applications relevant to practical colour measurement are considered that complement the CMC(2:1) equation.
People development
Authors: Hull Kevin
Published: July 2010

One of the richest resources a company has is the people who work for it. In this article, Kevin Hull looks at management development from its ‘people’ perspective.
Phospholipid bilayers as vehicles of anthraquinone disperse dyes in wool dyeing
Authors: de la Maza A , Parra J L
Published: July 2010

The use of multilamellar lipid vesicles as carriers of disperse dyes on wool fibres has been studied. Liposomes made from egg phosphatidylcholine containing the anthraquinone dye CI Disperse Violet 1 at different phospholipid/dye concentrations were used. The physical stability of these systems was assessed by measuring the mean vesicle size distribution of lipid vesicle suspensions after preparation and during dyeing. Kinetic aspects involving dye adsorption and bonding on untreated and chlorinated wool samples by means of the liposomes at different dye/lipid ratios were also investigated. This process led to the controlled dye exhaustion on wool, directly dependent on the relationship between the dye and lipid components, with a clear improvement in the dye‐fibre bonding forces and in the dispersing efficiency, compared with conventional dispersing agents. The optimum dye exhaustion was reached for the dye/phospholipid concentrations 0.53 and 1.0 mmol/l respectively. The maximum amounts of dye bonded on untreated wool fibre were obtained for the same dye/lipid molar ratio. However, chlorinated wool samples showed a slight decrease in the total bonded dye as the chlorination level increased.
Differential dyeing cotton. Part 2‐stoichiometry of interaction with acid and direct dyes
Authors: Clipson Jacqueline A , Roberts George A F
Published: July 2010

The stoichiometry of interaction of both acid and direct dyes with cotton modified with a reactive cationic reagent has been examined. In the case of the acid dyes adsorption is principally by a specific site mechanism and gives a 1:1 ratio between cationic sites on the cotton and sulphonate groups on the dyes, although some diffuse adsorption occurs with the more hydrophobic dyes. The direct dyes show a much greater amount of diffuse adsorption in addition to specific site adsorption. The results show that the presence of the cationic sites enhance the amount of dye taken up by diffuse adsorption and a mechanism for this is proposed.
The sailcloth manufacturing business‐past, present and future
Authors: Rice Adam
Published: July 2010

Sailcloth has come a long way since flax canvas, and some of today's synthetic fibres are eminently suitable for the purpose. In this article, Adam Rice looks at the history of sailcloth manufacture, and some of the more recent developments in the area.
Kinetic and thermodynamic studies on 2‐hydroxy‐1, 4‐naphthoquinone (lawsone)
Authors: Gupta Deepti Bahl , Gulrajani M L
Published: July 2010

Kinetic and thermodynamic studies were conducted with the natural dye lawsone (2‐hydroxy‐1, 4‐naphthoquinone) on six substrates at various temperatures. All the substrates showed high dye uptake and were dyed to deep shades. The adsorption isotherms, rate of dye uptake, diffusion coefficients, standard affinity, enthalpy and heat of dyeing have been calculated and discussed.
Water pollution‐criminal and civil liability
Authors: Jackson Karl
Published: July 2010

Water pollution is an area causing much concern at the moment. In this article, Karl Jackson discusses the current law regarding criminal and civil liability for the pollution of water.
The future of textile auxiliaries
Authors: Wragg Peter
Published: July 2010

Textiles auxiliaries can be perceived as ‘unnecessary extra chemicals’. Peter Wragg looks at all the issues involved in the regulation and control of these chemicals, and where the future might lie.
Powder data for CI Solvent Red 1
Authors: Whitaker A. , Woodisse S P
Published: July 2010

X‐ray powder data are reported for CI Solvent Red 1. The data have been successfully indexed and the cell dimensions (at room temperature) calculated from the pattern.
Trichromatic dyeing of leather
Authors: Tremlett Ray
Published: July 2010

It is fairly straightforward to dye textiles using a trichromatic system‐that is, one which uses compatible red, yellow and blue dyes in varying proportions to give the desired colour. With leather, it is not so simple, and finding compatible dyes much more of a challenge. Here, Ray Tremlett talks about the work that has been done at Ciba on trichromatic leather dyeing.
The influence of the temperature on the sorption of microemulsionated cationic softeners on cotton
Authors: Carrión F J
Published: July 2010

Cationic softeners are surfactants which, when added to the last rinsing during the washing of textile materials, impart a series of desirable properties, whose intensity depends on the sorption process. This sorption becomes more effective if the product is used in microemulsion form, as its penetration is facilitated in the textile substrate. The sorption kinetics of various cationic softeners (difatty alkylammonium and amidoimidozoline compounds) on cotton towel fabric have been studied as a function of water application temperature. The chemical structure of the softener is also considered.
Methine dyes formed by condensation of indane‐1, 3‐dione and cyanovinyl analogues with benzaldehydes
Authors: Bello Kasali A , Martins C M O A , Adamu I K
Published: July 2010

A range of dyes has been synthesised by condensing highly electronegative active methylene compounds derived from indane‐1, 3‐dione with the formyl group of substituted benzaldehydes. The visible absorption spectroscopic properties of the dyes were investigated. In general the dyes provided bright colours, ranging from yellow to blue on synthetic fibres when applied by vapour‐phase transfer printing, the prints having reasonable fastness to washing (ISO 3).
A picture of pigmentndashX—ray microanalysis, from colours to crooks
Authors: Palmer Gerry
Published: July 2010

Investigating the pigments and techniques that have been used by artists in their paintings can tell us many things, not least whether they are genuine old masters or more recent fakes. X‐ray microanalysis is a potent tool for this purpose. Gerry Palmer tells us more.
Environmental considerations for textile printing products
Authors: Grand Norbert
Published: July 2010

With environmental considerations playing an ever greater role in industry, and legislation in the area increasing, textile processors have to look carefully at the environmental impact of the products they use. Norbert Grund looks some ways in which textile printers can reduce their effect on the environment
Low‐temperature ultrasonic dyeing of silk
Authors: Shukla S R , Mathur Manisha R
Published: July 2010

Silk was dyed with cationic, acid and metal‐complex dyes at low temperatures in the presence of ultrasonic energy for relatively short durations. The results in terms of dye uptake were compared with those obtained by conventional processes run at higher temperatures and for longer dyeing times. It was found that the ultrasonic energy helps in obtaining good fast dyeings, simultaneously conserving energy and reducing the time required for the dyeing process. In some cases the dye uptake was even higher than that obtained by the conventional dyeing procedures.
Wool fibres of enhanced lustre obtained by enzymatic descaling
Authors: Levene R. , Shakkour G.
Published: July 2010

Wool fibres have been cleanly descaled and given enhanced lustre by padding at a low concentration of dichloroisocyanuric acid (0.6‐1.0 g available chlorine per 100 g wool) and then treating under exhaust conditions with papain (0.1 g per 100 g wool). The method is most successful on coarse fibre tops and also on hank yarn, but does not succeed on woven cloth. The wool is bleached to a level similar to that obtained in peroxide bleaching.
Pigments and the artist's palette
Authors: Kearton Russell
Published: July 2010

From the cave paintings at Lascaux to the latest experiments in contemporary art, artists have used all the colour materials available to them. Today, the range of colour and materials that artists can use isoverwhelming. Russell Kearton traces the development of painting pigments throughout the ages, from the yellows and reds of prehistoric times, to the overflowing palette of modern day art.
The effectiveness of CIE94 compared with the CMC equation
Authors: Oglesby S.
Published: July 2010

A comparison of various colour‐difference formulae, including CMC(2:1) and CIE94, is presented. It is suggested that there is scope for simplifying the CMC formula for practical use. However, until such a simplification can offer a clear advantage over established procedures, there would be little point in adopting it, particularly when inexpensive computers are readily available.
Young Colourist of the Year
Authors: Houlton Sarah
Published: July 2010

The Young Colourist of the Year competition, run by the SDC and dyehouse automation specialists Beacon Controls, is for those working in the dyeing industry under the age of 27. This year's winner is Carol Chappell from Dorma. Sarah Houlton went to meet her.
The Colour Museum now and the future
Authors: Hall Geoff
Published: July 2010

The Colour Museum has been one of the Society's most controversial areas since it wasset up in 1977. It achieved national prominence in 1988 when it one the award for the best technological museum of the year. In this article Geoff Hall, chairman of the Museum and Archives Coordination Committee, outlines some of the museum's present activities and discusses plans for future work.
Environmental compliance for the Hong Kong textile industry
Authors: Lin C M
Published: July 2010

Hong Kong is a densely populated city with a large number of small textile dyeing and finishing factories. Because of their modest scale of operation, these factories encounter considerable difficulties in handling environmental problems. C M Lin of the Hong Kong Productivity Council discusses the possible approaches that could assist small textile dyeing and finishing factories in coping with the control of air and water pollution.
The application of reactive dyes to cotton by a wet‐on‐wet cold pad‐batch method
Authors: Broadbent Arthur D , Kong Xiaoxing
Published: July 2010

Cotton ha been dyed with reactive dyes by both wet‐on‐wet (WOW) and wet‐on‐dry (WOD) cold pad‐batch processes, and by conventional exhaust methods. The colour yields, in terms of the Kubelka‐Munk values as a function of the amount of fixed dye, showed that the WOW method required less fixed dye to produce a given depth of shade than the other methods. It is proposed that the higher colour yields are a consequence of limited dye penetration into the cotton fibre. Compared with exhaust dyeings, WOW and WOD dyeings were clearly ring dyed but, unfortunately, no definitive difference in the degree of dye penetration into the cotton fibres was found despite their colour yield differences. Although ring dyeings often have inferior fastness properties, the WOW dyeings were of equal or slightly superior fastness to repeated washing and to normal daylight in comparison with the other dyeings
A study of oil‐soluble azo dyes for silver dye‐bleach photography
Authors: Peng Xiaojun , Yang Jinzong
Published: July 2010

Azo dyes used in silver dye‐bleach photography have been studied, emphasising the relationships between molecular structures on the one hand and their oil solubility and bleachability on the other. A moderately bulky substituent at the ortho‐position to the azo group is more favourable to good solubility than is a long‐chain alkyl substituent at another location. A dye containing the long‐chain alkyl group confers good colour density in aliphatic oils, such as tributyl phosphate (TBP) and dibutyl phthalate (DBP), but poor density in aromatic oil, such as tricresyl phosphate (TCP). The presence of the electron‐withdrawing substituents is likely to render the azo group more bleachable. Oils also play a role in the rate of bleach of the dyes: bleaching in TBP and DBP is superior to that in TCP
A novel approach to light‐fastness testing
Authors: Guthrie J. , Tayan N. , Wilson L.
Published: July 2010

The principles of the first system of controlled light‐fastness testing can still be found in today's blue wool scale. However, there exists a need for substrate‐specific light‐fastness standards. J Guthrie, N Tayan and L Wilson describe the development and problems of light‐fastness testing, and give a brief account of their attempts to create such a tailored testing scale.
The Basolan AS process: a new concept in wool dyeing
Authors: Cookson P G , Brady P R , Fincher K W , Duffield P A , Smith S M , Reincke K. , Schreiber J.
Published: July 2010

The new Basolan AS process for wool dyeing is described. The process restricts the deterioration of wool properties that occurs as a result of dyeing. This is achieved through a reduction in the extent to which wool is permanently set during dyeing. Two options are available to the dyer involving the addition of antisetting chemicals to the wool dyebath. Processing and product benefits can be obtained for wool dyed as loose fibre, top, yarn (package or hank) and woven fabric.
Colour change sensitivity of dye recipes
Authors: Oulton D P , Chen P.
Published: July 2010

Relationships are investigated between concentration changes in multi‐dye recipes and colour changes. Two methods are examined for predicting colour changes associated with small changes in dye concentration around ten colour centres. A synthetic reflectance curve generator and commercial match prediction system are used to generate the recipes. This simulates a dyeing process of zero variability and isolates the variables associated with the dyes. A matrix method is introduced to calculate AE for a given recipe concentration change in one or more dyes, possibly moving in opposite directions. The results are related to dye standardisations of ±2.5%, 5% and 10% strength. The matrix method is confirmed using a manual match prediction program.
Colour‐difference formulae‐recent developments
Authors: Rigg Bryan
Published: July 2010

Although a colour‐difference formula should, ideally, be based on a colour appearance model, most formulae in common use are empirically based. Of the many proposed, none are completely satisfactory, but advances have been made in recent years. Bryan Rigg considers the reliability of these newer formulae, concentrating on their surprising dissimilarities with regards to lightness differences.
Colour in visual displays
Authors: MacDonald Lindsay
Published: July 2010

Coloured display screens are now in widespread use in many workplaces and homes. So much so that we already take them for granted. Nevertheless, they are highly complex items that represent a considerable achievement for colour technology.
The light fading mechanism of dyes derived from rhubarb extract
Authors: Gupta Deepti Bahl , Gulrajani M L
Published: July 2010

The effect of relative humidity and mordanting on the fading kinetics and colour change of dyes derived from rhubarb extract on wool and silk has been investigated. Wool samples showed negligible change in colour even after 100 h of exposure, whereas silk samples became significantly darker. Relative humidity in the range of 10–45% and mordanting did not appear to affect the rate of fading on both the fibres. However, the rate and extent of change in colour (ΔE) on exposure was different for different mordants. The high resistance of the dye to light fading indicates that the dye is present in a highly aggregated form in silk and wool.
Formation of crosslinks in silk by bifunctional reactive dyes: effect on solubility and mechanical properties
Authors: Agarwal Deepali , Sen Kushal , Gulrajani M L
Published: July 2010

Bifunctional reactive dyes have been found to form crosslinks in silk. These have a significant effect on the solubility of the fibre. Solubility tests can therefore be used to assess the degree of crosslinking in the fibre. A slight improvement in the mechanical properties of silk dyed with bifunctional reactive dyes has been observed.
Methods for quantifying metamerism. Part 2‐Instrumental methods
Authors: Kuo W G , Luo M R
Published: July 2010

This is the second part of this series of articles, in which the experimental data described in Part 1 are used to evaluate three types of metamerism indices. The results show that the index based upon one of the three advanced colour‐difference formulae (CMC, BFD, and CIE94) gave a quite satisfactory prediction to the visual results. The degree of precision from these formulae is equal to or higher than the typical observer precision found in this study. A set of colour‐matching functions was also derived. In comparison with those of the CIE 1964 standard colorimetric observer, the new set gives closer agreement with the visual results, particularly under source D65. This new set could be used for indicating the degree of observer metamerism. Another set of experimental data was also assessed. Similar tests were conducted and the results confirm the earlier findings. The advanced colour‐difference formulae can be confidently used for evaluating the degree of metamerism for industrial applications.
Optimisation of the colour sequence in the process of fabric dyeing
Authors: Morales L. , Maldonado F. , Radillo R. , Ciurlizza A.
Published: July 2010

When programming a dyeing machine, a sequence of colours has been established in an attempt to reduce the effects caused by dye residues on the colours that are subsequently applied. In this paper a model is presented that makes it possible to determine the optimum sequence. Using a optimisation method, the sequence that minimises the sum of the photocolorimetric differences between the colours required and those obtained has been determined. In order to estimate the change that each colour undergoes due to the presence of residual dye in the dyeing equipment a computer calculation method has been adopted.
Photodegradation of some 1:2 metal‐complexed formazan dyes in an amide environment
Authors: Sokolowska‐Gajda Jolanta
Published: July 2010

The photodegradation of some representative metallised formazan dyes has been investigated. Photofading was examined in NN‐dimethylformamide (DMF) at wavelengths of 300 and 350 nm, and in daylight. The measured quantum yield of photodegradation depended on the metal present in the dye molecule and the photoysis wavelength. It was found that with UV light under anerobic conditions the presence of ketone sensitisers such as benzophenone accelerated photofading, confirming that hydrogen abstraction is responsible for degradation. Oxygen also played an important role in the photolytic behaviour under daylight exposure conditions. Co(III) complexed formazan dyes, unlike their Fe(III) analogues, were found to be effective singlet oxygen quenchers. Photofading of the metallised formazan dyes on polyamide fabric was also examined. Fading rates were directly related to the reciprocal of the light fastness of polyamide dyeings. The expected direct relationship between log quantum yield and the reciprocal of light fastness was also observed.
Direct dyes on cotton grafted with 2‐vinylpyridine and quaternised with alkyl bromides or epichlorohydrin
Authors: Eleftheriadis I C , Pegiadou‐Koemtzopoulou S A , Papazoglou V M , Kehayoglou A H
Published: July 2010

The dyeing properties of cotton grafted with 2‐vinylpyridine and then quaternised with alkyl bromides or epichlorohydrin were studied under various dyeing conditions, using CI Direct Blue 78 and CI Direct Yellow 106. The results have been compared with those obtained on unmodified cotton.
The use of video cameras for remote colour measurement
Authors: Connolly C. , Leung T W W , Nobbs J H
Published: July 2010

It is proposed that video cameras can be used for the measurement of colour in certain applications. It is shown that under carefully controlled conditions, a three‐chip CCD camera can achieve a repeatability of 0.33 CIELAB units, according to the CIE 1976 L*a*b* equation. The advantages of video cameras over colorimeters and spectrophotometers are explained, and applications are suggested in which these advantages outweigh the relative loss of precision.
The affinity of direct dyes for cellophane under high hydrostatic pressure
Authors: Maruyama Hisao , Hamada Kunihiro , Ishiwatari Tsutomu , Mitsuishi Masaru
Published: July 2010

The affinities of direct dyes, such as CI Direct Blue 1, Red 2 and Yellow 12 for cellophane under high hydrostatic pressures up to 600 MPa at 55d̀C are presented. The pressure dependence of the affinities are discussed in terms of the change of the volume of substrate available for dye adsorption, ΔV.
The use of triarylmethane dyes on aluminium
Authors: Tsangaraki‐Kaplanoglou I. , Moshohoritou R. , Kallithrakas‐Kontos N.
Published: July 2010

Coatings have been formed on the surface of unanodised aluminium electrolytically treated in an aqueous solution of tin sulphate and a triarylmethane dye. The coatings produced had a good decorative appearance, good adhesion and were 3–5μm thick. The coloured films had excellent light fastness but poor resistance to corrosion resistance. The dyes showing the most promise for this application were CI Acid Blue 9 and CI Acid Green 5. These dyes interfered in the current flow, in so doing modifying the surface topography and the semiconductive properties of the superficial aluminium oxide film formed during the colouring treatment. The dye fragmentation, cyclisation and dimerisation products derived during the electrolytic treatment resulted in the formation of organotin compounds.
Alkali‐promoted yellowing of wool. Yellow degradation products from a model for protein‐bound cystine
Authors: Hill R R , Ghadimi M.
Published: July 2010

NN“‐Diacetyl‐L‐cystine bismethylamide reproduces faithfully the known alkali‐promoted chemistry of cystine in wool and becomes bright yellow in the process. It is suggested that two minor, labile, but intensely yellow components of the product mixture, N‐methylthiopyruvamide and one or more polysulphides, are analogues of the elusive pigments in the yellowing of wool under similar conditions.
Description of dyeing equilibria in the application of direct dyes
Authors: Gerber H.
Published: July 2010

Direct dyes are absorbed on the internal surface of cellulosic substrates, the amount of surface accessible to a dye anion depending on the form and size of the anion. Thus there are surface regions for which all the dyes in a combination compete, and others that are only accessible to only one dye in a particular combination. The internal surface of the fibre also possesses an electric charge. The extent to which this initial charge is reinforced depends on the different absorption of the dye anions by different surfaces. Besides competition for dye sites, a mutual electrostatic repulsion occurs. A system of equilibrium conditions permits the absorption of different dyes in a combination that can be calculated on the basis of the absorption characteristics of the individual dyes.
Microbial decolorisation of chromium‐azomethine dye under aerobic conditions
Authors: Matanić H. , Grabarić Z. , Briŝki F. , Koprivanac N.
Published: July 2010

Removal of an chromium‐containing azomethine dye from waste water using an aerobically grown mixed bacterial culture was studied. Viable cell counts in the dye‐amended medium were determined by serial dilution and expressed as a number of colony forming units (CFU) per unit volume. The extent of decolorisation was found to depend on initial dye concentration, and ranged between 27 and 50%. At low dye concentration initial biosorption was insignificant, and about 50% of dye was subsequently removed by bacterial degradative activity. At high dye concentration initial biosorption was 20% following by almost unchanged CFU level and the presence of only one bacterial type, a gram‐positive bacterium. Consequently at the end of the test only 27% decolorisation was obtained. Concentration of chromium in the solution followed a similar pattern. A higher Cr(III) concentration at the end of the treatment was attributed to chromium release by partial biodegradation of the dye, followed by partial adsorption by bacterial cells and subsequent release by bacterial cell decay.
The spread of aqueous drops on cotton fabric
Authors: Nutter M.
Published: July 2010

Equipment has been developed for applying macroscopic drops of aqueous solution to a textile fabric and for recording the spread of solution within the fabric. The equipment has been used to investigate the way in which various aqueous solutions including dye solution spread on plain‐weave cotton fabric. The effect of altering various parameters including surface tension and drop mass has been investigated.
The effect of heat setting on the dyeability of differentially dyeable polyester fibres
Authors: Teli M D , Rao B Rama
Published: July 2010

Apparent diffusion coefficients of two disperse dyes for so‐called easily dyeable/cationic‐dyeable polyester (ED‐CDPET) and cationic‐dyeable polyester (CDPET) fibres of identical linear density and sulphonic acid group content have been calculated. It was found that the diffusion coefficients of dyes for ED‐CDPET were far greater than those of dyes for CDPET. The dyeability at the boil without carrier, using disperse and cationic dyes on various ED‐CDPET and CDPET fibres, has been studied. ED‐CDPET was found to have higher dyeability at all levels of heat setting (irrespective of the dye used). The finest ED‐CDPET fibres showed maximum dye uptake as a result of increased surface area. Heat setting in the taut condition reduced dye uptake.
Substitutes for 1‐naphthylamine. Part 3‐disazo direct dyes with 3‐amino‐4‐methoxyacetanilide and 1‐naphthylamine components
Authors: Sekar N.
Published: July 2010

A parallel series of dyes using 3‐amino‐4‐methoxy acetanilide and 1‐naphthylamine as intermediate components, and 6‐(N‐phenyl)‐amino‐1‐naphthol‐3‐sulphonic acid as a coupling component, together with some well known disazo components, have been synthesised and compared in order to identify effective substitutes for 1‐naphthylamine.