bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
New results concerning the breakdown of wool by moth and beetle larvae
Authors: Hammers Ingrid , Schmid Werner , Föhles Josef , Zahn Helmut
Published: July 2010

Some insect larvae have a remarkable ability to digest and utilise keratin, i.e. highly cross‐linked protein material. Extensive investigations about the digestive mechanism of these insects have already been carried out but the actual course of keratin digestion by the insect pests is still under discussion. Investigations of moth and beetle excreta by amino acid analysis and polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis should shed more light on this subject. The present paper describes such comparative studies of larval faeces excreted after feeding with non‐mothproofed and mothproofed wool, using low concentrations of two stomach poisons as moth‐and beetle‐proofing agents. It has been found by amino acid analysis that all excreta examined contained a mixture of peptides and free amino acids. Most of the moth excreta were rich in free cystine and histidine whereas the beetle excreta contained much free cystine and arginine. Only the brown house moth (Hofmannophila) proved exceptional in this respect. Gel electrophoretic analysis of excreta proteins showed a different pattern of breakdown of wool proteins by the principal wool pests. The electrophoretic patterns permitted a differentiation between the types of larvae.
Retardation of the photoyellowing of untreated wool and wool treated with fluorescent whitening agents by the action of reducing agents
Authors: Davidson R Stephen , Ismail Gulam M , Lewis David M
Published: July 2010

Different chemically treated wools have been exposed to radiation in the presence of different aqueous reductive bleaching agent solutions. It was observed that thiourea dioxide gave the best performance and, in the case of wool serge, led to a fabric having a better light fastness. An interesting beneficial synergistic effect was uncovered when the reducing agents were used in conjunction with formaldehyde. Biphenols (models for dityrosine) have also been padded onto wool and exposed to light in the wet state to mimic the photoyellowing of dityrosine. 0, 0′‐Biphenol‐treated wool was exposed to light in the presence of the reducing agents and these were found to decrease the amount of discoloration produced by degradation of 0, 0′‐biphenol.
Improvement in the light fastness properties of dyed and pigmented materials. 1‐The effect of antioxidants on the photostabilisation of dyes in cellulose acetate film
Authors: Kuramoto Nobuhiro
Published: July 2010

The effect of some added antioxidants on the photodegradation of C.I. Solvent Yellow 33 (quinophthalone) and C.I. Direct Red 39 in cellulose acetate films have been investigated. The effects varied according to antioxidant type. For example, the addition of 2, 6‐di‐t‐butyl‐4‐methylphenol, an effective radical scavenger, afforded little protection against photodegradation, while singlet oxygen quenching of antioxidants such as nickel bis(dithiobenzil), nickel dialkyldithiocarbamate, nickel bis(mesitylenesulphonate) conferred improved resistance of the dyes towards photodegradation.
The mathematical expression of rate constants in empirical rate of dyeing equations in disperse dyeing
Authors: Shibusawa Takao
Published: July 2010

The relationship between the rate constants in empirical rate of dyeing equations and the diffusion coefficient of dye in the fibre have been clarified by means of a statistical curve fitting method, where the rate of dyeing curves calculated from the theoretical equations (those of Wilson and Newman) have been compared with those from the empirical equations in the range Mt/M∞ from zero to about 0.8. The comparisons revealed that many of the empirical equations are suitable for describing the dyeing rate when there is a delay of dye sorption in the early stages, and one of them is useful for determining the dyeing rate when there is rapid dye sorption at the initial stages. The fact that these empirical equations fit well to practical dyeing can be explained in terms of the sorption delay caused by the stagnant solution layer surrounding the fibres.
The role of ethylene glycols during sublimation transfer printing of cotton
Authors: Chavan R B , Jain A K
Published: July 2010

High‐boiling‐point water‐miscible solvents such as polyethylene glycols are normally recommended along with a cross‐linking agent for the pretreatment of cotton to make it suitable for transfer printing with disperse dyes. The role of such glycols has been stated as maintaining the swollen state of cotton, which allows the diffusion of disperse dyes during transfer printing. In the present work an attempt has been made to point out the exact role played by the high‐boiling‐point glycols during sublimation transfer printing of cotton with disperse dyes.
The use of reactant‐fixable dyes in the dyeing of cellulosic blends
Authors: Hook J A , Welham A C
Published: July 2010

The use of Indosol reactant‐fixable dyes in the dyeing of cellulosic blends is described. Detailed descriptions of the various fixation methods are given. The possible problems in blend dyeing with Indosol systems and the solutions to those problems are discussed. The advantages of Indosol systems in terms of time and cost savings are described.
Benzo[k, l], xanthene–3, 4–dicarboximides and benzimidazoxanthenoisoquinolinones – yellow and orange dyes for synthetic–polymer fibres
Authors: Peters A T , Behesti Y S S
Published: July 2010

Condensation of 4–chloro–l, 8–naphthalic anhydride with 2–nitrophenol afforded 4–(2–nitrophenoxy)–l, 8–naphthalic anhydride, which on reduction followed by Pschorr intramolecular cyclisation gave benzo[k, l]xanthene–3, 4–dicarboxylic acid anhydride. The identity of the product was confirmed by its alternative synthesis from 5–amino–4–phenoxy–l, 8–naphthalic anhydride. Benzo[k, l]xanthene–3, 4–dicarbox–ylic acid anhydride condensed with alkylamines or arylamines and with o–phenylenediamines to yield the corresponding imides and imidazole derivatives, which coloured polyester in fluorescent greenish–yellow to orange hues, respectively, of good fastness to light and sublimation. The colour of the dyes is discussed with respect to analogous ring–closed sulphur– containing heterocycles.
The dyeing behaviour of Thunderon SSN fibres
Authors: Aviv G
Published: July 2010

The kinetic and thermodynamic aspects of dyeing Thunderon SSN fibres (polyacrilonitrile fibres coated with a copper sulphide layer) have been studied and compared with results obtained on uncoated fibres. A considerable difference in the kinetic behaviour was found, and the apparent diffusion coefficients as well as the rate constants differ from each other by a factor of about three. At equilibrium the fibres react almost in the same way; their absorption isotherms were found to be quite similar.
Wool bleaching with reducing agents in the presence of sodium laurylsulphate. Part 2 — bleaching with non‐stabilised hydrosulphite
Authors: Gacen J , Cegarra J , Caro M
Published: July 2010

Wool bleaching with non‐stabilised hydrosulphite in the presence of sodium laurylsulphate (SLS) at a concentration of 5 g/l provides far better whites than when bleaching without this surfactant. In addition to better whiteness and lower yellowness index, wools bleached with SLS incorporated into the bath have a cysteine content some 20–30% lower.
The influence of a polymer substrate on the light fastness and isomerisation of some azo dyes
Authors: Dubini‐Paglia E , Beltrame P L , Seves A , Prati G
Published: July 2010

Poly(ethylene terephthalate) films having different morphologies have been coloured with some azo dyes. Isotropic and anisotropic films showed an inversion in dyeing behaviour as well as in light fastness, always at crystallinity β=0.5. We have interpreted the phenomenon in terms of a different localisation of the dye in going from a structure of PET corresponding to a free‐volume model to a structure corresponding to a pore model. It was found that polymer morphology strongly affected dye photofading whilst the thermal cis‐trans isomerisation of azo dyes in the PET matrix depended only on the amorphous region; below the glass transition temperature isomerisation proceeded in a way that was determined by the effects of restrictions in the mobility of the photochrome itself.
Differential dyeing cotton. 1 – Preparation and evaluation of differential dyeing cotton yarn
Authors: Clipson Jacqueline A , Roberts George A F
Published: July 2010

Colourless cationic and anionic cellulose‐reactive compounds have been prepared and applied to cotton yarns. Yarn pretreated with cationic reagents shows better uptake of acid and direct dyes than does untreated yarn, and since the degree of differential uptake depends on the level of pretreatment, which may be readily controlled, fabrics exhibiting a variety of tone‐on‐tone effects may be produced. Treatment with an anionic reagent gives cotton dyeable with basic dyes, and combinations of anionic‐ and cationic‐treated yarns may be cross‐dyed in a single‐bath, one‐step process with very little cross‐staining. Pretreated cotton may be converted to viscose or cellulose triacetate fibre with retention of the modified dyeing properties, thus providing routes to differential dyeing viscose and triacetate fibres.

We wish to thank the British Technology Group for financial support of this work for the period 1983–86, and Mrs F A Wood for technical assistance.
A triphenodioxazine compound with near infra‐red absorption characteristics
Authors: Renfrew A H M
Published: July 2010

A sulphonated triphenodioxazine compound has been synthesised which, in an aqueous medium, absorbs strongly in the near infra‐red region of the spectrum and displays a bathochromic shift of 236 nm compared with other more soluble members of the same series. The compound proved to be pigmentary in nature and the unexpected optical behaviour can be explained in terms of orientation and packing of the crystalline form.
Powder data for some brown pigments
Authors: Holt Evelyn , Whitaker Alan
Published: July 2010

The X‐ray powder diffraction data are given for a group of brown pigments, produced from the ‘as received’ colorants, together with information on the source of the material and comments on the patterns.
Right‐first‐time — an approach to meeting the demands of today's customer
Authors: Farrington David W
Published: July 2010

This paper concentrates on the management of quality and service. These have been major topics in the UK during recent years, as it is clear that only through good quality performance can the dyeing and finishing industry respond quickly enough to its main market place — the high street. The work done at Meridian Fabrics is described in order to illustrate the key ingredients that are necessary if a right‐first‐time approach is to be pursued meaningfully. With the use of financial models, the benefits of setting up quality improvement programmes are shown. These should be seen not only in the light of cost justification but also as a means of providing a competitive advantage in terms of customer service.
The use of the Kawabata Evaluation System for product development and quality control
Authors: Harwood R J , Weedall P J , Carr C
Published: July 2010

The clothing manufacturing industry is an important user of the products of the dyeing and finishing industry. Major advances in Japan have shown that the use of mechanical property data can assist the dyer and finisher in providing products that are sufficiently consistent for their efficient conversion into clothes. The Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES–F) can be used to provide appropriate information of use for quality control, product development and product specification. Current uses and applications are discussed.
Cellulose dyeing parameters of 18 isomeric phenylazo‐H‐acid dyes containing two different reactive groups
Authors: Abeta Sadaharu , Akahori Kingo , Meyer Ulrich , Zollinger Heinrich
Published: July 2010

Eighteen isomeric dyes, each based on phenylazo‐H‐acid and containing two reactive groups, namely a monochlorotriazine group and a sulphuric acid ester of ß‐hydroxyethylsulphone, were applied to cotton fabric by an exhaustion process at 60d̀C. The following properties were studied: spectra, uptake curves of the dyes before and after adding sodium carbonate, affinity, diffusion rate, and rates of hydrolysis and of reaction with cellulose, as evidenced by fixation and colour yield. Some significant correlations were found, but some missing or poor correlations indicated that there are further parameters or relationships between parameters that remain to be elucidated.
Optimisation of novel amine shrinkproofing and dye‐assist treatments on wool
Authors: Coderch L , Manich A M , Parra J L , Erra P
Published: July 2010

A study of shrinkproofing and dye‐assist treatments has been performed using ethanolamine as the reactive agent and isopropanol/water mixture as the treatment medium. The three variables studied were percentage of isopropanol in the treatment bath, ethanolamine concentration and temperature. These were optimised in terms of the shrinkage prevention, dye‐assist effect, weight loss and yellowing results obtained. The best treatment conditions found, conferring both shrink‐resistance and dye‐assist effect, together with a controlled level of damage, were 50% isopropanol/water mixture and 1 mol/l ethanolamine at a temperature of 55d̀.
Levelling properties of some reactive dyes on cellulose
Authors: Harada Naoki , Urakawa Hiroshi , Kajiwara Kanji , Ito Taisuke , Kikkawa Sadanobu , Imada Kunihiko , Abeta Sadaharu
Published: July 2010

The levelling properties of nine reactive dyes containing one or two sulphatoethylsulphone reactive groups or one sulphatoethylsulphone and one monochlorotriazine reactive groups have been investigated. A novel test method specifically applicable to reactive dyes has been used in order to evaluate levelling. Undyed and dyed cotton samples were simultaneously dyed in the same bath and the fractions of the additional dye fixed on each of the cotton samples were determined afterwards. A dye distribution index has been proposed that predicts reactive dye levelling according to whether the index exceeds 50% or not. The index was found to depend not only on the nature of the dyes, but also on the concentration of the dye fixed on cotton, the dyeing temperature and the salt concentration in the dye liquor. In redyeing tests the degrees of primary and secondary exhaustion and of dye fixation were measured as a function of concentration of the dye fixed on cotton. Finally a satisfactory correlation was found between the index and the classical inorganicity/organicity value of the dyes. The results also suggest that the levelling properties depend on the degree of dye aggregation.
Current problems and future restrictions in dyehouse operations
Authors: Hazel Barry G
Published: July 2010

Although the title refers specifically to dyehouse operations the author extends his discussion beyond this topic, as fabric must be prepared before dyeing and finished after dyeing, if it is to meet the consumer needs. In this article Barry Hazel considers a wide range of problems in the finishing sector.
A model for the penetration of foam into running cotton fabrics
Authors: Isarin J C , de Boer J J
Published: July 2010

The viscous transport of foam through capillary systems can be described by a so‐called power law. With flow of foam through a stationary substrate a relationship between pressure and foam flow can be found in which a number of geometrical parameters and rheological constants play a part. This model may be extended to the application of foam to moving fabrics in closed systems. As long as the liquor absorption plays a subordinate role during application, the model described explains the behaviour observed, within the limits of experimental error. The model can be considered as a useful basis for further study.
Photo‐oxidation and photoreduction of bis(dithiobenzil)nickels
Authors: Nakazumi H , Takamura R , Kitao T
Published: July 2010

Photo‐oxidation and photoreduction of bis(dithiobenzil)nickels have been investigated. The quantum yields for photo‐oxidation of anionic bis(dithiobenzil)nickels by u.v. irradiation (313 nm) were in the range 0.07–0.14 in dichloromethane, and this photo‐oxidation on poly(methylmethacrylate) was also observed. Some of the neutral bis(dithiobenzil)nickels in acetonitrile/benzene mixture were photoreduced in the presence of methylene blue as a sensitiser by irradiation in visible light (>390 nm), and a significant substituent effect was observed.
The future of textile printing
Authors: Spruijt J
Published: July 2010

Stork has considered the future of textile printing and developed a new integrated approach to the phase between design and printed fabric production. Automation is already well established in the pre‐printing stage the ‘system integration’ adds to this by improving control and providing a flow of information throughout the production process. The various systems involved communicate with each other as modules of a centrally guided network. A flexible, economical and high‐quality pre‐production phase is created.
Making the product fit for the job
Authors: Glover Brian
Published: July 2010

The Society of Dyers and Colourists' international conference was held at York on 12–14 September 1990. The theme was ‘Profitability through partnership’. Several of the papers presented were published in the February 1991 issue of the Journal. Most of the others are now appearing in this special feature.
Laboratory‐to‐bulk reproducibility
Authors: Park James
Published: July 2010

The penalties for not achieving right‐first‐time processing in batch dyeing are severe, and success depends on the availability of efficient laboratory services to back up production. The reproducibility of laboratory colour matching is often criticised and the reasons for this are discussed. Ways of overcoming these criticisms are detailed. Computer colour matching is a major dyehouse aid in obtaining ‘quick response’, but accuracy of laboratory dyeing can often be a major problem in achieving optimum results. Modern developments to improve the accuracy of laboratory dyeing are reviewed. A number of partnerships are required if the laboratory service is to be successfully applied.
Partnership with the environment — can finishers meet the ‘green’ requirements?
Authors: Hazel Barry G
Published: July 2010

The strong ‘green’ lobby that has grown up in recent years has led to actual and proposed legislation on environmental pollution that is causing problems to textile finishers. The first part of the paper deals with this legislation and the balance that must be achieved for the survival of the industry. The second part puts forward suggestions for the requirements of the industry in terms of research to meet environmental needs in the 21st century.
Pollution control in the textile industry — the chemical auxiliary manufacturer's role
Authors: Norman Peter I , Seddon Roy
Published: July 2010

Following their paper in the previous issue on atmospheric and effluent control, the authors discuss the need to establish effective waste water management systems and how this may be achieved as economically as possible.
The role of colour in architecture
Authors: Bell James A M
Published: July 2010

Colour is an expressive element in architectural design and can be used to emphasise the character of a building and create harmony and unity, or it can be deliberately contrasting to enliven or emphasise. It may affect the way in which people respond to their surroundings and can enhance a mood of calm or elation.
Colour in textile computer‐aided design systems
Authors: Hawkyard C J , Oulton D P
Published: July 2010

Current developments in cathode ray tube displays are briefly reviewed. Problems of matching colours on screen displays with actual surface colours are considered, and the viewing surface colours under different illumination conditions is discussed. The principal features of the UMIST Shademaster system are described.
Achieving right‐first‐time production through control
Authors: Collishaw P S , Glover B. , Bradbury M J
Published: July 2010

The thesis of this paper is that the dye—fibre reaction involved in the coloration of cellulose fibres with reactive dyes is a chemical reaction that requires careful control of process conditions in order that the same end point may consistently be reproduced. The main considerations will focus on the importance of dye standardisation, selection of dyes which in combination exhibit minimum sensitivity to expected small on‐line processing variables, and application profiles with on‐line checks at critical stages. This provides the basis for implementation of relevant controls and the mechanism for achieving right‐first‐time production.
Going down the tube…dispense faster or die
Authors: Coulton Bob
Published: July 2010

For the textile printer the supply and mixing of the print paste is one of the more complex areas of production. Bob Coulton reviews these developments and suggests future trends will demand more integrated recipe systems and faster automatic dispensing.
Dyeability variation in cotton ‐a study from fibre bale to finished fabric
Authors: Cooper P , Taylor J M
Published: July 2010

An extensive study has been conducted to quantify the dyeability variations existing in cotton, sampling from the bale, and throughout processing in the spinning mill and the dyehouse. A dyeing test has been derived to assist dyehouses to rapidly assess the dyeability characteristics of incoming yarns.
An investigation into the effect of fibre protective agents on the physical properties of wool dyed at 130°C
Authors: Carr CM
Published: July 2010

The effect of dyeing at elevated temperature on wool fabric strength is investigated.A range of fibre protective agents are evaluated and the formation of dehydroalanine examined.
Assessing the compatibility of disperse dye mixtures by the use of colour coordinates
Authors: Shukla S R , Dhuri S S
Published: July 2010

Polyester fabric was dyed with a mixture of three disperse dyes of similar hues (all in the red‐yellow sector of colour space) in equal proportions at different depths. The colours of the dyed samples were measured on a spectrophotometer attached to an IBM Personal Computer and the results used to study the compatibility of the dyes in mixture. The dyes showed better compatibility at the lowest applied depths of 1.5% o.w.f. The technique based on K/S values was found to be useful for a practical dyer to judge the compatibility of dyes of similar hues in mixtures.
Flash photolysis of azo dyes in aqueous solutions of biacetyl
Authors: Neevel J G , van Beek H C A , van de Graaf B
Published: July 2010

Irradiation by microsecond flash of aqueous aerobic solutions of biacetyl (2, 3‐butanedione) and a number of different azo dyes resulted in oxidative fading of the dyes. The fading kinetics of all tautomeric dyes could only be described properly by assuming three oxidative species. The first one is believed to be singlet oxygen. Due to its short lifetime in aqueous systems, the dye fraction consumed by singlet oxygen was confined to a maximum of about 30%. Second order reaction rate constants for the second oxidator were in the range of 1.4–4.7 × 108 l/(mol s). A radical mechanism is proposed, in which the adduct of oxygen and triplet biacetyl is the second oxidising species. A third oxidator formed from the second was necessary to describe adequately the fading curves of four azo dyes with slow fading rates. This oxidator could be an acylperoxy‐radical. The non‐tautomeric dye Cl Acid Red 37 was recycled partially after very fast fading during the first 0.5 ms.
Neutral‐fixing reactive dyes for cotton. Part 1 —synthesis and application of quaternised S‐triazinyl reactive dyes
Authors: Croft S N , Lewis D M , Orita R , Sugimoto T
Published: July 2010

A number of different tertiary amines have been employed to prepare the corresponding quaternised triazines from a selected monochloro‐s‐triazine reactive dye. Preparation conditions have been established along with suitable analytical methods. The reactivity of the quaternised dyes with cellulose has been determined, special attention being paid to neutral fixation at high temperatures (100°C). Good neutral fixation was achieved with all the tertiary amine derivatives studied. In the case of the nicotinamide derivative an anomalous hydrolysis reaction involving ring opening was noted; this reaction led to the formation of aminotriazine rather than the expected hydroxytriazine.
Deactivation of α‐bromoacrylamide dyes by wool
Authors: Hannemann Klaus
Published: July 2010

To achieve the highest wet fastness properties, reactive dyeings have to undergo an aftertreatment which removes unfixed dye from the fibre. The question of the origin of these unfixed dyes is discussed and new experimental results presented.
The importance of the dyeing laboratory in efficient production
Authors: Park James
Published: July 2010

The commercial dyer (and printer) incurs severe financial penalties if right‐first‐time production, using blind processing techniques, is not achieved. The philosophies of quick response and just‐in‐time processing also require that corrections and reprocessing are eliminated. The laboratory must be the nerve centre of the dyeing or print works if the above techniques are to be successfully exploited. The functions of the laboratory servicing the coloration processes are discussed briefly. Many of these functions depend on laboratory dyeing techniques that have often been justifiably criticised in the past for lack of accuracy and reproducibility, particularly when scaling‐up into bulk procedures. Evidence is included to substantiate some of these criticisms and reasons for the lack of reproducibility are given. Finally methods of achieving a high degree of accuracy in laboratory dyeing, which allows results to be transferred directly into bulk, are mentioned.
Join the club: contract research for industry
Authors: King Alf
Published: July 2010

In many instances the cost of research and development is too high for individual companies. Consequently, the R & D ‘club’ has become widespread practice at the innovative stage of product or process development. Alf King explains the mechanisms of contract research and highlights the importance of technology transfer.
Colour makers and consumers: Heinrich Caro's British network
Authors: Travis A S
Published: July 2010

Heinrich Caro was one of the outstanding colourists of the 19th century; from 1868 to the end of the 1880s he directed the main technical developments at the BASF company. Previously he had worked in Manchester for Roberts, Dale & Co., where he introduced synthetic dyestuffs and became closely involved in process management, sales and service. This wide‐ranging experience and his close contact with British manufacturers of intermediates and colorants, as well as with customers, especially the printers of Lancashire, proved invaluable after Caro returned to Germany in 1866. Caro's experience in Great Britain was influential in placing BASF at the forefront of the German dyestuff manufacturing industry.
Chromatographic separation of the components of commercial syntans and assessment of their effectiveness as stain‐blocking agents for wool
Authors: Kelson Jennie S , Holt Leo A
Published: July 2010

Sulphonated aromatic aldehyde condensation products, or syntans, have been used as stain‐blocking agents for nylon and wool carpets. In this study chromatographic procedures have been developed to separate commercial syntans into their various components. The components from seven such syntans have been assayed for stain blocking on wool. These investigations showed that many of the components have negligible stain‐blocking activity.
The dyeing of polyester/viscose
Authors: Hook John
Published: July 2010

Although polyester has played an important role in a wide variety of single‐fibre products, it has also been an important feature of many multi‐fibre blends. John Hook discusses the importance of the polyester/viscose blend, particularly for clothing, and indicates the challenge it poses for dyers.
The pKa values of phosphonates and their influence on dyeing wool with Alizarine Sky Blue BLW
Authors: Hamza Salem M
Published: July 2010

Phosphonates when adsorbed by wool fibres prior to dyeing with Alizarine Sky Blue BLW cause a marked increase in rate of dyeing. This increase is parallel to the pKa values of the phosphonates.
The retarding action of polyacrylamide in acrylic dyeing
Authors: Shukla S R , Mathur Manisha
Published: July 2010

Polyacrylamide of different molecular masses was found to act as polycationic retarders in dyeing of acrylic fibres with cationic dyes. The method of retardation is simple and economic, having no adverse effect on final dye exhaustion values. The possible mechanisms involved are discussed.
Defects in rotary screen printed fabric
Authors: Cormack Beth
Published: July 2010

Numerous defects occur in fabric that has been printed by the rotary screen method. In this article, Beth Cormack looks at their classification, work which was carried out at De Montfort University, Leicester as the textile interface to a SERC/Dorma pic funded Image Processing project.
The simultaneous continuous dyeing and bulking of acrylic yarn
Authors: Hardalov Ivan , Mikhaylova Julia
Published: July 2010

A pilot‐scale installation has been used for the continuous differential dyeing and simultaneous bulking of acrylic yarns. The influence of yarn velocity, steam pressure and steaming temperature on the bulking effect and the rate of dye fixation was studied. Bulking and fixation were also affected by the composition of the dyebath. Conditions were established under which a very good bulking effect and almost complete dye fixation could be achieved.
Carpet dyeing in the 1990s.
Authors: Park James
Published: July 2010

All to often, carpets are fitted and forgotten, every day taking punishment from thousands of pairs of feet clad in muddy shoes in a department store or smothered in the debris of domestic life. The only in‐service care they receive is typically an occasional ‘once over’ with a vacuum cleaner. The fact that they can absorb such treatment and still retain their good appearance is a tribute to the work of carpet technologists over the years, and not least carpet dyers. In the first part of this feature, James Park reviews some of the commercial facts of life for the carpet dyer and examines in more detail the technology of carpet fibre and yarn coloration.
Novel pigment binders based on S‐thiosulphato (Bunte salt) terminated polyethers
Authors: Hinks David , Lewis David M
Published: July 2010

An initial study has been undertaken to determine the viability of using S‐thiosulphato (Bunte salt) terminated polyethers as pigment binders. Three such polymers (two synthesised and a commercial product) of different molecular mass and functionality were investigated. Two substrates were employed: wool fabric as prepared for dyeing and cotton fabric modified with a cationic polyamine. Pigments dispersed in anionic surfactants show high substantivity for the latter substrate and as a result these dispersions can be successfully applied to appropriately treated fibre by exhaust methods. In all cases high standards of wash fastness were achieved without affecting the fibre handle. On cotton each binder showed relatively low fastness to rubbing. On wool a good all‐round fastness was achieved with one of the Bunte salt polyethers. The polymers also displayed excellent properties for use as dispersing, wetting and shrink‐resist agents.
Kinetics of the biacetyl‐sensitised photo‐oxidation of CI Acid Orange 7
Authors: Neevel J G , Peereboom M , van de Graaf B
Published: July 2010

A kinetic model for the biacetyl‐sensitised photo‐oxidation of Cl Acid Orange 7 in aqueous solution during continuous irradiation at 365 nm is presented. Biacetyl was taken as a model for naturally occurring carbonyl species in polymers such as oxidised celluloseand lignin involved in photosensitised degradation of azo dyes. Quenching of triplet biacetyl by the dye and by oxidation products as well as quenching of singlet oxygen by waterand by oxidation products was accounted for. The equations derived from the model describe the relationship between the measured quantum yield of dye fading and dye concentration, as well as that between measured quantum yield of oxygen demand and dye concentration. Reaction rate parameters were calculated by a nonlinear least squares method, and were in accordance with literature values and values measured by flash photolysis. The relative amount of dye faded by singlet oxygen was estimated as 1.4–14%, indicating that singlet oxygen was of minor importance as an oxidative species.
Getting your act together
Authors: Newton Eric J
Published: July 2010

Textile dyers and finishers could sometimes be forgiven for thinking that they are more endangered than the environment they are often accused of polluting. Nevertheless, progressive companies do recognise the need to make every effort to clean up their operations, as an essential aspect of business survival. One such company is John Heathcoat, basedin Devon, a mainly rural county of England with many visitors and holidaymakers. In this article Eric Newton describes the steps his company has taken to address the concerns of environmentalists.
Photobleachable fluorescent species in wool keratin
Authors: Melhuish W Hugh , Smith Gerald J
Published: July 2010

The fluorescence from scoured merino wool was examined systematically using excitation wavelengths ranging from 280 to 400 nm. Absorption maxima of various fluorophores, were identified. Irradiation of dry wool in dry air at 325 nm selectively destroyed or bleached the fluorophore absorbing maximally at 335 nm while irradiation of dry wool at 365 nm bleached the two fluorophores absorbing maximally at 335 and 380 nm. Comparison of the fluorescence from wool with that observed from collagen by excitation with UVA radiation suggests that the fluorophores present in wool absorbing above 350 nm are not tyrosine derivatives and are probably tryptophan oxidation or hydrolysis products.
The Merchant of Prato
Authors: Morton Nigel
Published: July 2010

Fascinating details about the textile industry 600 years ago are contained in Iris Origo's book The Merchant of Prato. The legendary merchant was a 14th century Dick Whittington, dyehouse owner and trading magnate. Using the book as a basis, Nigel Morton looks at the relationship between textile processing then and now.
Interaction of vinylsulphone reactive dyes with cellulosic fabrics. Part 1 — dyeing mechanism, fibre characterisation and effects of alkaline electrolytes
Authors: Guo L N , Petit‐Ramel M , Gauthier R , Chabert B , Jacquet A
Published: July 2010

Two vinylsulphone dyes were studied by an HPLC technique under alkaline conditions in order to evaluate their various chemical forms. Fabrics made from viscose fibres were dyed under controlled conditions, varying the nature and the quantity of electrolyte used. It was found that sodium chloride is the most efficient salt for a short dyeing times (20 min) while lithium chloride yields higher dye uptake over more prolonged dyeing processes (60 min). The effect of the electrolytes on dye uptake was found to be related to the radius of the solvated cation.
Low chrome dyeing
Authors: Houlton Sarah
Published: July 2010

Traditionally, most wool has been dyed by processes which involve chromium. However, effluent which contains chrome residues presents significant environmental problems. In this article, Sarah Houlton looks at methods which are being applied to wool dyeing to reduce chrome levels in effluent
Is size important?
Authors: Milner Alan
Published: July 2010

Different size types present different problems for the textile processor. In this article, Alan Milner looks at the importance of pretreatment in the dyeing and printing of cotton and polyester/ cotton, and in particular which methods of size removal give the greatest success.
Right‐first‐time dyeingndashthe dye manufacturer's role
Authors: Parton Keith
Published: July 2010

The manufacturer of dyes can help the dye user to achieve right‐first‐time dyeings in a number of ways. Keith Parton looks at some aspects of the manufacturer's role in this area.
Bio‐polishing of cellulosic fabrics
Authors: Wadham Michael
Published: July 2010

Various treatments are available to reduce pilling and improve fabric softness. One new and permanent treatment is the bio‐polishing process. Michael Wadham tells us more.
Modelling cationic dyeing‐consideration of ionic and hydrophobic interactions in a modified Donnan approach
Authors: Yang Yiqi
Published: July 2010

A modified Donnan model has been derived, based on hydrophobic and ionic interactions between dyes and fibres. This model gives a good prediction of a cationic dye equilibrium sorption on an acrylic fibre under different dyeing conditions. The decrease in dye sorption with increasing salt concentration, followed by an increase in the dye sorption following further increase in the concentration of some salts (such as sulphates and phosphates), can be interpreted by this model. The study provides a quantitative approach to the dual functions of simple electrolytes during cationic dyeing, i.e. the competition of sorption sites with dyes through ionic interactions and the promotion of the dye sorption through hydrophobic interactions.
Interaction of vinylsulphone reactive dyes with cellulosic fabrics. Part 2‐dye associations and dyesurfactant interactions
Authors: Guo L N , Petit‐Ramel M. , Arnaud I. , Gauthier R. , Chevalier Y.
Published: July 2010

The ability of reactive dye molecules (CI Reactive Red 180 and CI Reactive Yellow 23) to undergo self‐association and to associate with different surfactants has been examined spectrophotometrically. The stability constants KDS of the dye‐surfactant complexes were calculated at dye:surfactant ratios varying from 1:0 to 1:10 and for different surfactant types (anionic, zwitterionic, nonionic and cationic). Dye uptake on viscose fibre observed for a dye:surfactant molar ratio of 1:0.5 was found to be related to KDS values.
The effect of ‘natural’ defects on leather dyeing
Authors: Landmann Axel
Published: July 2010

Dyeing leather is very different from dyeing textiles, not least because of the defects that are frequently present on the skins. Axel Landmann looks at the many defects that can occur, and how they affect the dyeing process.
The interaction of knitting oils and cotton impurities: effects on reactive dye yield
Authors: Elliott Michael S , Whittlestone Douglas
Published: July 2010

The problems facing the modern dyehouse due to the presence of impurities on cotton fibres from a variety of sources are discussed. A list of impurities normally assignable to natural cotton is included to emphasise the complexity of the chemistry influencing the pretreatment stage. The importance of effective systems management during pretreatment is highlighted. A laboratory study has been undertaken to investigate the action of three different types of needle oil on reactive dye yield when dyeing cotton. Oleophilic dyes increased in dye yield when the oil was not adequately removed in preparation, as expected. This investigation explains some of the less common but previously puzzling occurrences of dye‐resist effects, demonstrating that this may be associated in some way with knitting oils.
Printing celiulosics‐current and future demands on the reactive dye printer
Authors: Provost John , Aston Sarah
Published: July 2010

Recent developments in technology are having a profound effect on the textile printing industry. John Provost and Sarah Aston give an overview of the main issues that will be influencing the textile printer in the 1990s and into the next century.
The effect of polycation on the light fastness of CI Acid Red 249
Authors: Oka Hidetaka , Kimura Akira
Published: July 2010

Cationic compounds are frequently used in direct dyeing processes and in ink‐jet printing as dyefixing agents. In some cases, however, they can reduce the light fastness of dyes used. This report deals with the effect of a polycationic compound, Polyfix 601, on the light fastness of CI Acid Red 249, an anionic 2‐phenylazo‐1‐naphthol dye, in aqueous solutions and in PVA films. As a comparison, the much smaller ammonium cation was used, which had no observable effect on hue or dye light fastness. However, some changes to the dye's physical properties were observed. The effect of the polycation is explained as a consequence of dye aggregation, facilitated by presence of polycation. Self‐sensitised singlet oxygen seemed to play no part in dye photofading, but other oxygen species could participate in the process.
The modification of wild silk fibres with methacrylamide
Authors: Kawahara Y. , Shioya M. , Takaku A.
Published: July 2010

Wild silk and cultivated mulberry silk fibres have been graft copolymerised with methacrylamide, and the changes in the dyeing behaviour when dyeing with the levelling acid and milling acid dyes investigated. The tensile properties of the fibres and their durability during laundering have also been examined. The amount of the levelling acid dye adsorbed by all the fibres decreased with increasing polymer add‐on, while the amount of milling acid dye adsorbed by the mulberry silk fibres was almost unchanged by the graft treatment. The breaking loads of the fibres were almost unchanged whereas rigidity of the fibres increased following graft treatment. The tensile properties of the grafted silk fibres were not diminished by laundering at polymer add‐on levels greater than 50%.
Substitutes for 1‐naphthylamine. Part 1‐a comparative study of monoazo anionic dyes from 5‐acetaniidoaniline‐2‐sulphonic acid and 1‐naphthylamine
Authors: Sekar N.
Published: July 2010

5‐Acetamidoaniline‐2‐sulphonic acid has been evaluated as a substitute for 1‐naphthylamine by synthesising and evaluating a parallel series of monoazo dyes derived from both components.
Dynamic responsendasprocess optimisation in the exhaust dyeing of cellulose
Authors: Bradbury Mike , Collishaw Peter , Moorhouse Steven
Published: July 2010

Dynamic response offers a means of differentiating service and providing a competitive edge in today's global textile industry. Quality and dynamic response are synonymous with right‐first‐time production, essential in modern quality management systems. Process optimisation via right‐first‐time production is the key to improved technical and commercial performance. Mike Bradbury, Peter Collishaw and Steven Moorhouse outline Zeneca's approach to these matters.
On‐Line colorimetry in continuous dyeing
Authors: van Wersch Kurt
Published: July 2010

Informative on‐line measuring systems are instrumental to monitoring and improving the reproducibility of the continuous dyeing process, and thus facilitate dynamic response to consumer demand via right‐first‐time production. The on‐line colorimetry process for measuring and regulating the intensity of colour in the wet fabric downstream of the padder is a way for early recognition and warning of tailing and listing, writes Kurt van Wersch.
Solndashgel coloured coating for the coloration of glass
Authors: Nakazumi Hiroyuki , Itoh Takeo
Published: July 2010

The basic features of the sol‐gel process and the sol‐gel coloured coating method for the coloration of glass plates are described. These represent a novel coating technology based on organic colorants. Commercially available dyestuffs, including reactive dyes capable of bonding directly to the silica matrix, that can be used in this new application are discussed.
Instrumental evaluation of whiteness
Authors: Hayhurst Roy , Smith Ken
Published: July 2010

Given the importance in most coloration industries of sensibly white shades, it is unsurprising that strenuous efforts have been made to develop visual and instrumental means for assessing whiteness. Roy Hayhurst and Ken Smith recount the history of whiteness evaluation, and describe how the most recent developments have allowed the instrumental determination of whiteness to be made both reliably and, for practical purposes, absolutely.
Application of heterobifunctional reactive dyes on silk
Authors: Agarwal Deepali , Sen Kushal , Gulrajani M L
Published: July 2010

The behaviour of heterobifunctional reactive dyes, containing a monochlorotriazine and a vinyl sulphone group, on silk has been investigated. Maximum exhaustion and fixation were obtained in a neutral medium at 90d̀ C. The addition of sodium sulphate was found to promote the exhaustion of reactive dyes at pH values above the isoelectric point of silk. A reduction in the solubility of dyed silk indicated that crosslinks were formed with bifunctional reactive dyes.
Development of a test to predict colour fading of cotton fabrics after multi‐cycle laundering with a bleach‐containing domestic detergent
Authors: Phillips Duncan , Duncan Michael , Jenkins Edward , Bevan Geoff , Lloyd John , Hoffmeister Jurgen
Published: July 2010

The development of a new diagnostic test to identify coloured cotton fabrics susceptible to fading (due to oxygen bleach) through repeated washing with oxygen bleach‐containing domestic laundry detergents is described. A possible mechanism is outlined to explain the bleach sensitivities observed on the basis of dye structure.
Rendering flax fibre dyeable with basic dyes via partial carboxymethylation
Authors: Higazy A. , Hashem M M , Abou‐Zeid N Y , Hebeish A.
Published: July 2010

Carboxymethylation of flax has been carried out by first treating the fibres with sodium hydroxide followed by the sodium salt of monochloroacetic acid. The treatment was carried out under a variety of conditions. Variables studied included concentrations of monochloroacetic acid and sodium hydroxide in the impregnating solutions, as well as duration and temperature of the reaction. it was found that the extent of carboxymethylation increased substantially by controlling the concentrations of alkali and monochioroacetic acid, and by reacting for 6d min at 70d̀C. The behaviour of selected samples of partially carboxymthylated flax towards basic dyes was also studied.
An oxidative batchwise shrink‐resist treatment for wool using monoperoxyphthalic acid
Authors: Levene R. , Cohen Y.
Published: July 2010

The effectiveness of three oxidising agents have been compared in a batchwise process for conferring wash fastness to wool in the form of tops, knitting yarn and knitted and woven cloth. The three were dichloroisocyanuric acid (DCCA), peroxymonosulphuric acid (PSA) and monoperoxyphthalic acid. DCCA, the commonly used agent for batch shrink‐resist treatments, reacts so rapidly as to cause unevenness. It also tends to harden and yellow the fibres and so is usually used at low application rates, as a pretreatment before the application of a resin. It contributes to the presence of organic halides in effluent (AOX). Neither PSA nor monoperoxyphthalic acid suffered from these deficiencies, but PSA could only be used successfully for woven cloth, unless applied with resins. Monoperoxyphthalic acid was effective for wool in all its forms, without subsequent resin treatment. However, it is not available in commercial quantities, so a simple process for preparing it cheaply from phthalic anhydride and hydrogen peroxide has been developed. It can be applied after dyeing with Lanaset dyes without significant shade change.
Colour appearance assessment
Authors: Luo Ronnier
Published: July 2010

Colour appearance is an important area of research in colour science and has been investigated by many researchers in the literature. In this article Ronnier Luo reviews various assessment techniques and describes the LUTCHI data which he has been involved in accumulating over the past eight years, and which has been used to test various uniform colour spaces and colour appearance models.
Go green‐a sound business decision (part 1)
Authors: Reid Rebecca
Published: July 2010

Speakers at the 1996 Midlands Region Symposium (Go green ‐ like it or lump it) ranged from dyemakers to retailers; Rebecca Reid reports on their predictions for the industry.