bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Investigating drivers of internet giving behaviour in Malaysia
Authors: Amin Hanudin
Published: April 2016

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to explore drivers influencing internet giving behaviour among bank customers in Malaysia.

Design/methodology/approach

Using the theory of interpersonal behaviour (TIB) and the innovation diffusion theory (IDT) as a baseline theory, this study proposes a conceptual model of internet giving behaviour in Malaysia. Data from the 372 usable questionnaires are analysed using partial least squares (PLS).

Findings

PLS results reveal that affect, social factors, facilitating conditions, relative advantage, complexity and compatibility are significantly related to internet giving behaviour, revealing the appropriateness of the TIB and the IDT in the context of internet giving in Malaysia. The proposed relationship between internet giving behaviour and religious satisfaction is also fruitful.

Research limitations/implications

The samples of this study are confined to Malaysian respondents. Further testing of the proposed model across different countries is needed to determine the generalisability of this study’s findings. Further testing on other factors is also needed to extend the finding. In addition, future studies should consider a mediator variable that helps to enrich the finding.

Practical implications

Results obtained provide directions to bank managers at improving internet giving services to their customers. Internet giving tends to be used by individuals if the factors investigated in the current study are considered.

Originality/value

This study examines internet giving behaviour with an enhanced consumer model includes the TIB, the IDT and religious satisfaction. With the support of the TIB and the IDT in this study, the model could be applied as a useful theoretical framework to investigate other giving areas.
Shame and institutional stability – or – change in healthcare
Authors: Jarvis Lee C.
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to help introduce the empirical study of emotion within an institutional framework by examining shame and shaming as drivers of institutional stability and change, respectively.

Design/methodology/approach

– The author conducted a qualitative study of 101 US print media articles generated by major US news publications and trade magazines from 1999 to 2011 in the wake of the Institute of Medicine’s (IOM) 1999 report To Err is Human: Building a Safer Health System.

Findings

– This study resulted in two major findings. First, this research found that the institutions constituting the collective professional identity of physicians persisted via institutionalized shame inculcated in physicians during their extensive socialization into the medical profession. Potential shame over medical error served to reinforce institutionalized cultures which exacerbated medicine’s problems with error reporting. Second, this study reveals that field-level actors engage in shaming to affect institutional change. This research suggests that the IOM report was in effect a shaming effort directed at physicians and the institutions constituting their collective identity.

Research limitations/implications

– This study provides some verification of recent theoretical works incorporating emotion into institutional theory and also illustrates how shame can be incorporated into collective identity as an institutional imperative.

Originality/value

– This study provides a rare empirical investigation of emotion within an institutional framework, and illuminates ways in which the emotion of shame interacts with institutional processes. This research also focusses on collective identity and institutional stability, two topics which are largely ignored by contemporary institutional researchers but are integral aspects of social life.
Israel ' s failed experiment with American-style welfare reform
Authors: Fisher-Shalem Orit , Quadagno Jill
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– According to convergence theory, over time societies form similar social structures, political processes and public policies. In 2001, Israel adopted a welfare reform plan that rejected the traditional strategy of passive income support and instead endorsed the concept of activation. The plan was modeled on the Wisconsin Welfare to Work program and was designed to put the long-term unemployed to work. The program began operating in four regions in 2004 but was abruptly terminated six years later. The purpose of this paper is to analyze why Israel’s welfare reform failed to follow the smooth path predicted by convergence theory and elucidates the factors in the Israeli environment that made the implementation of a program borrowed from the USA unsustainable.

Design/methodology/approach

– A multi-method approach including interviews with key informants, content analysis of media materials and government documents and a quantitative comparative values analysis of four nations.

Findings

– The failure of US-style welfare reform in Israel was due to four main factors: a more diverse recipient population, a lack of understanding of Israeli cultural values, a welfare population that included a substantial number of ethnic minorities whose customs conflicted with program regulations and a social movement against the program by non-profit organizations.

Originality/value

– This paper demonstrates the limitations of convergence theory and highlights the salience of cultural values in the transmission of activation policies across nations. Specifically, it shows that outcomes vary when policies that are superficially similar are implanted in nations with fundamentally different cultures.
A sociology for other animals: analysis, advocacy, intervention
Authors: Cudworth Erika
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to map the field of sociological animal studies through some examples of critical and mainstream approaches and considers their relation to advocacy. It makes the argument that while all these initiatives have made important contributions to the project of “animalising sociology” and suggest a need for change in species relations, the link between analysis and political strategy is uncertain.

Design/methodology/approach

– The paper develops its argument by using secondary sources, reviewing sociological positions and offering illustrations of possible interventions.

Findings

– Sociological interventions in the field of animal studies have been informed by critical perspectives, such as feminism and Marxism, or taken less critical routes deploying actor-network theory and symbolic interactionism. Whilst those working in critical traditions may appear to have a more certain political agenda, an analysis of “how things are” does not always lead to a clear position on “what is to be done” in terms of social movement agendas or policy intervention. In addition, concepts deployed in advocacy such as “liberation”, “quality of life” or “care” are problematic when applied beyond the human. Despite this, there are possibilities for coalition and solidarity around certain claims for change.

Research limitations/implications

– If the central argument of the paper were taken seriously by general sociologists, then sociology may be more open to “animal studies”. In implications for exisitng sociological animal studies scholarship is to trouble some of the certainties around advocacy.

Practical implications

– If the central argument of the paper were taken seriously by advocacy groups, then the hiatus between “welfarism” and “liberation” might be overcome.

Originality/value

– There have been recent attempts to map the field of scholarship in animal studies, but surprisingly little consideration of how different emergent positions inform questions of advocacy and the possibilities for political intervention.
Residential satisfaction in gated communities
Authors: Tan Teck Hong
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to determine how satisfied homeowners are with their gated residences.

Design/methodology/approach

– This study starts out by examining the data collected through self-administered surveys to find out the satisfaction levels and motivations of homeowners toward their gated homes in the Klang Valley, Malaysia. This is then followed by regression analysis to examine the relationship between motivations of owing gated homes and residential satisfaction.

Findings

– The benefits that motivate households to purchase gated landed homes are “Safety and Security,” “Financial Benefits” and “Social Status” and “Lifestyle Facilities.” It also appears that the satisfaction levels of homeowners are to a certain extent, influenced by the benefits of owning a gated home.

Research limitations/implications

– It seems that when home buyers purchase houses these days, a major consideration is placed on whether or not the development is a gated one.

Practical implications

– The congruence and dissonance between residents and their housing situations are essential to prevent the decreasing quality of urban environment. Thus, this study can serve as a guide for urban planners and property developers in planning and designing of enclosed private residential developments. Furthermore, property developers can gain valuable insights on the gated home features that they should improve to meet each homebuyer’s needs.

Originality/value

– Majority of the studies on residential satisfaction have been focussed on the evaluation of non-enclosure communities. There have only been a limited of studies examining the experience of residents in enclosed private residential environments in a developing country. Hence, this paper has contributed to the existing knowledge in the development of gated estates in a developing country.
After the rains: water’s impact for valuation practices
Authors: Cradduck Lucy
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to reduce the potential for litigation by improving valuers’ awareness of water risks. As part of a valuer’s due diligence, the paper provides guidance as to how to identify such risks by explaining the different types and examining how online search tools can be used in conjunction with more traditional methods to evaluate the probability of these risks occurring.

Design/methodology/approach

– The paper builds on prior research, which examined the impact of water to and for valuations. By means of legal/doctrinal analysis, this paper considers relevant issues from the perspective of managing client expectations and needs. In so doing it identifies online tools available to assist in identifying at risk properties and better informing clients.

Findings

– While the internet provides a variety of tools to gain access to relevant information, this information most commonly is only provided subject to disclaimer. Valuers need to ensure that blind reliance is not given to use of these tools but that the tools are used in conjunction with individual property inspections.

Research limitations/implications

– Although the examples considered primarily are Australian, increasing water risks generally make the issues considered relevant for any jurisdiction. The research will be of particular interests to practitioners in coastal or riverine areas.

Practical implications

– Valuation reports are sought for a variety of purposes from a variety of clients. These range from the experienced, knowledgeable developer looking to maximise available equity to the inexperienced, uneducated individual looking to acquire their home and thinking more often than not with their heart not their head. More informed practices by valuers will lead to valuation reports being more easily understood by clients, thus lessening the likelihood of litigation against the valuer for negligence.

Originality/value

– The paper highlights the issue of water risks; the need for valuers to properly address potential and actual risks in their reports; and the corresponding need to undertake all appropriate searches and enquiries of the property to be valued. It reinforces the importance of access to the internet as a tool in the valuation process.
Application of Catalyst in Textile Wet Processes
Authors: Lam Y.L. , Kan C.W. , Yuen C.W.M.
Published: April 2016

A systematical review of catalyst was provided in the paper involving the definition, the sort, effect mechanism and the influence factors which followed that the application of catalyst in the textile industry in terms of dyeing, finishing and effluents treatment. Catalyst is defined as a substance that could change the rate of chemical reaction, while it is not consumed in the overall reaction. The changing of the reaction rate by means of catalyst is known as catalysis. Catalyst could assist in either acceleration or deceleration of the reaction rate. In textile processing, especially in textile wet processing such as dyeing and finishing, for example, easy care and durable press finishes, antimicrobial finishes, ultraviolet protection finishes, flame retardant finishes and water repellent finishes, various types of catalysts will be involved for achieving desired effect. However, there is a less discussion and review on the relationship on the effect of catalyst on the final properties of the textile materials. Therefore, the aim of this paper is to provide a comprehensive review of the application of catalyst on the textile wet processing and nano-catalyst was also evaluated in the extending to the opportunities and development of textile industry.
Enhancement of Cotton and Cotton / Wool Blend Dyeability by Microwave Heating
Authors: Haggag K. , Elshemy N.S. , Nasef N.A.
Published: April 2016

The dyeing of cotton and cotton/wool blend fabric by using reactive dyes has been studied with both conventional heating and microwave irradiation. The effects of the dye bath pH, microwave power, dyeing time and dye concentration are studied and the resulting shades obtained by dyeing through microwave and conventional techniques are compared. The results of the dyed samples indicate that microwave irradiation is more effective than conventional heating. Color strength values obtained are found to be higher by microwave irradiation. The results of the fastness properties of the dyed fabric are good to very good. The dyeing kinetics of cotton and cotton/wool blend fabrics are also compared by using the two methods. The values of the dyeing rate constant, half dyeing time (t
1/2), stander affinity and microwave efficiency are calculated and discussed. The physical properties of the samples are studied before and after exposure to microwave irradiation by a scanning electron microscope and an x- ray analysis.
Optimization of Ring Frame Process Parameters for Fancy Multicount Yarn Part I: Ne 9.5s Multicount Yarn
Authors: Iqbal Shakeel , Pramanik P. , Haragopal V.V.
Published: April 2016

Fancy multicount yarn (9.5s Ne) is prepared on a ring frame with an Amsler fancy yarn attachment per the Box-Bhenken design for three variables and at three levels. The ring frame process parameters selected are spindle speed, traveller mass and twist multiplier. Different yarn properties, such as yarn tenacity, breaking elongation, yarn irregularity, yarn hair index, imperfections and thin places -40% are tested. An analysis of the result is done by using statistical software. It is observed that a 9000 rpm spindle speed with a 5 twist multiplier gives maximum yarn tenacity, a 9000 rpm spindle speed with traveller mass of 120 mg gives minimum yarn irregularity and traveller mass of 120 mg with a 4.8 twist multiplier gives minimum yarn imperfections within the experimental zone explored.
Eco-Friendly Natural Dyes: A Comparative Study with Direct Dyes
Authors: Sathianarayanan M.P. , Narendra Bhat
Published: April 2016

With an increasing awareness of environmental pollution and health hazards associated with synthesis, processing and use of synthetic dyes, there is a worldwide interest in natural dyes for textiles. This paper presents a comparative study of natural dyes and direct dyes in terms of eco-friendliness and their various colour-fastness properties. It also reveals that natural dyes can be used safely as they contain metals and formaldehyde within the Okotex limits and do not contain amines. The fastness properties of natural dyes are found to be satisfactory.
INatural Blue Dye fromClitoria Ternatea: Extraction and Analysis Methods
Authors: Sinha Keka , Das (Saha) Papita , Datta Siddhartha
Published: April 2016

An increased environmental awareness of health hazards caused by synthetic dyes has led to revival of natural dyes. Dyes obtained from natural sources have emerged as important substitutes for synthetic dyes. Color-yielding plants such as butterfly pea flowers have been used to study color extraction and can be used as dyeing material for coloring industry. Analytical studies, such as UV–VIS spectrophotometer analysis and dye concentration analysis, are performed on extracted dye using flower petals. In this study, aqueous extractions of dye from flowers were carried out in the following conditions to obtain optimization characterization: time of extraction (30-180 minutes), temperature (60-90°C), amount of flowers (0.1-2gm) and pH (2-10). It was observed that dye concentration increases gradually at higher temperature and for longer time.
Optimization of Process Parameters for Coloration & Antibacterial Finishing of Silk Fabrics Using Natural Fungal Extract
Authors: Manickam Parthiban , Govindarajan Thilagavathi
Published: April 2016

This study aims to evaluate and optimize the dyeing potential of fungal pigments for silk fabrics. The fungal pigments were extracted from thermomyces, purified and characterized by using UV-Vis and FTIR spectra and used for dyeing. An experiment was designed using the Box-Benkhen with three levels and three variables using pH, temperature and time as independent variables and K/S, wash fastness, rubbing fastness, light fastness and bacterial reduction (%) as dependent variables and the conditions were optimized. Regression equations were obtained to analyse color intensity, fastness properties and bacterial reduction and the optimum process parameters were identified. The results showed that the optimum concentration of pigments was 2% of the fabric weight and the optimum condition for dyeing was 60°C for 30 minutes at pH 3.
Natural Flame Retardant Finish for Textiles
Authors: Chakrabarti Ruma , Shobhanashree P.C.
Published: April 2016

The field of flame retardancy has witnessed rigorous development in the area of new technologies, products and materials to meet the challenge and needs of ever changing safety regulations and cope with the changing requirements of everyday use. Most of the chemical flame retardants available are non bio-degradable and result in bio-accumulation, thus posing a serious threat to the environment and also to human life, especially to children. The carcinogenic nature of flame retardants has led to bans on the application of such chemicals on children wear about 30 years ago, but the risk of fire on clothing in the household still remains high. As such, this work proposes the use of attapulgite, a naturally occurring form of clay to impart flame retardancy to cotton and poly-cotton fabrics which are the most commonly used material in the field of home textiles. The finish is applied onto cotton and poly-cotton by the pad-dry–cure method. Evaluation of finished fabric is carried out for flame retardancy, tensile strength, abrasion resistance, stiffness, and durability according to ASTM standards, and the results have been recorded.
Visual Effects of Stainless Steel and Retro-Reflective Yarns on Woven Fabrics
Authors: Önlü Nesrin , Halaçeli Havva
Published: April 2016

In the 1970s, rapid developments and changing technology enabled the transition from an industrial to an information society to speed up, meanwhile causing cybernetic, biomimetics and space research to accelerate. In this period, some changes appeared in the needs of people, resulting in the production of fibers and yarns that are functionally hygienic, anti bacterial, able to breathe, and resistant to ultraviolet (UV)-rays. While material criteria were becoming important in textile design in light of these changes, new esthetic effects that emerged which depended on the materials used in textile products also appeared.

Different visualities were obtained as impressions such as iridescence, dull-brightness, voluminosity, and relief-like impressions in fabrics by high-tech innovations which created fibers, yarns and finishing processes in particular and properties of touch, such as softness, slipperiness, and super fluidity. Comparisons of fabrics were made between artificial and natural materials, and included in aesthetical renovations.

In consideration of such data, the subject of this paper within the context of innovation brought about for clothing fabrics by high-tech fibers and yarns is as follows: the design and production of different aesthetical and visual-effect clothing fabrics with brightness and shimmering qualities in voluminous, puffy and relief-like impressions by using stainless steel and retro reflective yarns that are products of high-tech.

For this purpose, 12 apparel fabrics have been designed and produced. The
above-mentioned visual effects are studied in these fabrics and related differences established based on type and number of yarn, weave, and density, and structure of fabric.

The different approach in this study is that voluminous, puffy, shimmering and brightness effects in clothing fabrics are obtained by stainless steel and retro reflective yarns in single and double layer structures, and as patterned fabrics. Therefore, brightness and patterns could be differently conceived based on the type of light by day or night. Another difference is that 100% stainless steel yarn is used and spun.
Investigating the Impact of Enzymatic Treatment on Mechanical and Chemical Properties of Denim Fabrics
Authors: Saleh S.M. , El-Sayed Ihab , El-Shikh Ahmed
Published: April 2016

This study examines the effects of enzymatic treatment by acid and neutral cellulases after desizing and washing denim fabric. Tensile strength, elongation, stiffness, crease recovery angles and fastness properties of the samples were measured by standard methods. The chemical changes to the fabric samples were observed using the FTIR (Fourier Transformer Infra Red). Also, the surfaces of the treated samples were observed by the SEM (scanning electro microscope). The results show that all these treatments which gave the samples an age-worn appearance decreased the mechanical properties. Acid cellulase is the most aggressive enzyme for specially treated cloths, which proves that washing followed by applying neutral cellulase enzyme is the most suitable treatment for denim fabric.
Processes of Dyeing, Finishing and Flame Retardancy of Cellulosic Textiles in the Presence of Reactive Tertiary Amines
Authors: Waly A. , Marie M.M. , Abou-Zeid N.Y. , El-Sheikh M.A. , Mohamed A.L.
Published: April 2016

Cotton fabrics can be dyed with reactive and/or direct dyes in aqueous baths under certain specific conditions of pH, salt, temperature, time, etc., and rendered fire retardant through reaction with reactive phosphonopropionamide compounds. In the presence of reactive tertiary amines and reactive phosphorous derivatives, cotton fabrics can be dyed with reactive, direct or acid dyes in the absence of the usual added alkalis and salts, and in the mean time, the fabric becomes fire retardant with wash and wear properties. To verify such claims, reactive aminating agents are synthesized by reacting different amine compounds that have various numbers of amino groups with acryl amide and formaldehyde. The pad-dry-cure technique is applied to treated fabrics with aqueous finishing formulations that contain dyestuff and reactive amine-compounds; the cotton fabric will simultaneously impart reactive dyeing, easy-care inishing and fire-retardant properties. Systematic studies show that in the presence of 6% weight/weight, reactive amine in an aqueous formulation yields cotton fabric with the least loss in tensile strength and elongation at break, and an enhancement to the crease recovery angle. By adding the dyestuff to the aqueous formulation at fixed nitrogen content for treated cotton (0.2%) under identical dyeing conditions, the colour strength (K/S) increases for dyed cotton. The fastness properties of the dyed fabric are improved or remain unaltered for the three types of dyestuffs used
Study of Thermal Behaviour of Fabric Coated with Nanocomposite Polyacrylate/Clay
Authors: Dhouib S. , Abid K. , Sakli F.
Published: April 2016

In this paper, nanocomposites are synthesised with Tunisian natural clay which has the advantage of being inexpensive. In fact, it is simply a mixture of several sorts of clays (kaolinite, dolomite, calcite, illite, and quartz). This clay has been cleaned, purified, dried, and steered with polyacrylate resin which is actually used in the textile field for several types of other applications, such as comfort, elasticity or impermeability. The samples have been examined by x-ray diffraction (XRD) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) in order to observe their compositions and ensure the formation of the nanocomposites .The mixture resin/clay is deposited onto 100% cotton fabric and tested by using a PASOD device that measures the necessary voltage to maintain the temperature difference between the inside and the outside of the fabric which is equal to 20°C. The enhancement of the fabric thermal insulation is noticed by calculating the difference in temperature between the inside and the outside of the fabric. The coating which is a nanocomposite PAC/clay has been modelled which proves that it is a Hamiltonian model as the clay percentages are superior to 4% when the clay dispersion and the free-volume are calculated.
Cold Pad Batch Cationization and Dyeing of Linen Fabric with Reactive Dyes
Authors: Mashaly Hamada M. , Hauser Peter J.
Published: April 2016

Unmodified linen fabric is cationized through the reaction of two different commercial cationizing agents, 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (CHTAC) and polyaminochlorohydrin quaternary ammonium salt with epoxide functionality (PAQAC). Uncationized and cationized linen fabrics are dyed with four different types of fiber reactive dyes by using the cold pad batch dyeing method. The fastness properties of the dyed cationized linen fabrics have been evaluated.
Finishing of Cotton Fabric by Methacrylic Acid in the Presence of Reactive Peroxydiphosphate-Metal Ion-Cellulose Thiocarbonate Redox System
Authors: Mahmoud R.I. , Morsy M.S.
Published: April 2016

Modification of cotton fabrics by using thiocabonate redox system with peroxydiphosphate (PP), ferouse ammonium sulphate(FAS) and methacrylic acid (MAA) under various conditions tell the optimum condition. The efficiency of the cross linking reaction is monitored via evaluation mechanical tests on tensile properties (i.e. tensile strength (T.S.) and elongation at break (EAB), wrinkle crease recovery angle (CRA), abrasion resistance and finally, created air and water permeability. The results indicate increases in tensile properties, CRA and abrasion resistance with decrease in both air and water permeability. They are compared with the original fabric.
Synthesis and Application of New Ureido Reactive Dyes
Authors: Ali N.F. , Shakra S. , Youssef Y.A. , Aysha T.S.
Published: April 2016

New disazo and polyazo ureido reactive dyes incorporating different reactive systems were synthesized and applied to cotton fabric by the exhaust dyeing method. Different factors affecting the dye ability and fastness properties of such dyes are investigated.

Bis(monochlorotriazine) reactive dyes displayed higher primary exhaustion values compared to those obtained with bis(sulphatoethysulphone) and bis(monochlorotriazine/sulphatoethysulphone) reactive dyes under different neutral exhaustion conditions. The results obtained indicate that the fixation efficiencies of these dyes were higher than those of dyes incorporating the bis(dichlorotriazine) reactive system. The results assessed for alkaline exhaust dyeing indicate that the bis(monochlorotriazine/sulphatoethylsulphone) dye was less sensitive to the variation in fixation temperatures than the other reactive dyes. The fastness properties of the ureido reactive dyes were fair to good.

The improved dyeing performance of such type of ureido reactive dyes should lead to the design of reactive dyes with good application and fastness properties on cotton fabric, and provide practical solutions for low-salt dyeing. The present study of synthesis of disazo and polyazo ureido reactive dyes of high molecular structure, and its application to cotton fabric by the exhaust dyeing method is novel and could be applied in the industry.
Made to Measure & Advanced Manufacturing Toward a New Integration between Tradition and Innovation
Authors: Vecchi Viola Chiara
Published: April 2016

WovenTechnology is the main element for attaining excellence in manufacturing areas in the field of fashion. In recent years, integration of advanced technologies has been the main aspect for revitalizing the entire Italian manufacturing system. Starting from CAD software, then hardware, and finally, the use of communication technology for business facilities, this paper shows the most interesting cases in which fashion has benefited from advanced technologies to design innovative products and new business strategies. Digital technologies effectiveness is the new frontier that propels the manufacturing system and defines new ways of doing things and new marketing scenarios able to support companies in customer loyalty and market diversification. From these, it can be said that innovation is the result of several factors and the rapid spread of technologies, which clearly represent opportunities for the industry system to combine advanced manufacturing and traditional processes, ensure flexibility, and achieve new ways of producing, designing and selling.
Pattern to Product, Pattern through Product Traditional Tools and Process Innovation in Textile Design
Authors: Colombi Chiara
Published: April 2016

The history of weaving and textile innovation follows the history of technological innovations and the evolution of socio-cultural issues in a stepwise manner.

Currently, textiles and patterns are tools that characterize garments and define their unique aesthetics, becoming identity-making elements not only for a single product or a collection, but also for brands. By balancing a delicate equilibrium between brand heritage and Zeitgeist, the Italian textile industry bases its success on the capability to re-organize creative processes to generate innovation, also thanks to new relationships among textile designers and their customers. In particular, it is in the textile pattern development activity where we can find, on the one hand, interesting examples of product innovations through traditional tools, such as the company archives, and on the other hand, interesting examples of process innovations through new creative possibilities offered by high-tech fabrics.

Through special case studies, this essay will analyze and define possible creative models that innovate in the textile sector.
Formative Representation of Sensuality in 19th Century Fashion
Authors: Shin Jooyoung
Published: April 2016

Sensuality is a dynamic that has driven fashion to undergo endless changes and left distinctive imprints on the style of each period. Particularly in the fashions of the 19th century, sensuality played a crucial role in shaping the essence of contemporary dress aesthetics, as well as the physical form of the dress. This study begins by questioning how sensuality, a concept of ideal aesthetics, can be represented in a visual form. In order to provide the answer to this question, the formative representation of sensuality in 19th century fashion is examined by considering the major factors that affect dress form, such as silhouette, material, the body and movement, and space. Based on the analysis, a close connection between sensuality and the dress form designed to reflect the body and its movement is established. Interaction between the dress, body, and their surrounding space creates a discontinuous, changeable, and obscure silhouette, known to be a criterion of the open form. In conclusion, sensuality can be more explicitly and conspicuously observed in dresses through the formative characteristics of an open form. Fashions of the early, midand late 19th century are compared to illustrate the analysis.
History of Dyes Used in Different Historical Periods of Egypt
Authors: Abdel-Kareem Omar
Published: April 2016

This paper is a review article which presents brief historical information about natural dyes in different historical periods in Egypt. This information will assist archaeologists, dyers, artists and conservators who seek information about ancient dyes in Egypt. For example, the data will help conservators in choosing natural dyes that can be used in producing new models of dyed textile samples that simulate the original historical ones. These models of textile samples can be used as experimental samples in conservation research and training of young conservators. Also, this information can be used by technologists to conduct comparison studies on the technology of natural dyes in ancient Egypt. The dyes are presented according to their alphabetical names in this paper. All data in this paper have been collected from references related to this topic without any changes from the researcher.
Use of ozone in the dairy industry: A review
Authors: Varga László , Szigeti Jenő
Published: April 2016

Ozone treatment is a cost‐effective and eco‐friendly food‐processing technology. It has successfully been used for the removal of milk residues and biofilm‐forming bacteria from stainless steel surfaces and in milk processing, including fluid milk, powdered milk products and cheese. Ozonation has been shown to prevent mould growth on cheese and inactivate airborne moulds in cheese ripening and storage facilities. Ozone treatment has also been found to be a promising method for reducing the concentrations of pollutants in dairy wastewaters.
A Study of Fatal and Nonfatal Hangings
Authors: Andriuskeviciute Gerda , Chmieliauskas Sigitas , Jasulaitis Algimantas , Laima Sigitas , Fomin Dmitrij , Stasiuniene Jurgita
Published: April 2016

Approximately 50% of all suicides performed worldwide are strangulations. This article presents options for the medicolegal examination of hanging. The pathogenetic mechanisms and clinical pictures of victims are discussed. Examples of the process of diagnosis and expert conclusions are given. This article is intended for physicians and forensic pathologists. The literature focusing on asphyxia by strangulation is reviewed. Data from Vilnius Hospitals and the State Forensic Medicine Service concerning strangulations performed between 2012 and 2014 are analyzed and include the findings of 5650 autopsies (36% asphyxia) and 4 survived victims. The predominant symptoms were neurological, cardiovascular, and respiratory symptoms. After asphyxia, patients should consult by a psychiatrist, ophthalmologist, gastroenterologist, and endocrinologist. A ligature mark was the most observable sign of asphyxia by neck strangulation. Only complications in the poststrangulation period were treated. Mechanical asphyxia must be identified as the main injury in the clinical diagnosis and encoded as ICD‐10.
HbA1c, systolic blood pressure variability and diabetic retinopathy in Asian type 2 diabetics
Authors: Foo Valencia , Quah Joanne , Cheung Gemmy , Tan Ngiap Chun , Ma Zar Kyi Lin , Chan Choi Mun , Lamoureux Ecosse , Tien Yin Wong , Tan Gavin , Sabanayagam Charumathi
Published: April 2016

Background

The aim of the present study was to examine the association between variability in HbA1c or systolic blood pressure (SBP) and diabetes‐specific moderate retinopathy in Asians with type 2 diabetes (T2D).

Methods

A retrospective study was conducted of 172 cases of moderate diabetic retinopathy (DR) cases and 226 controls without DR, matched for age, sex, and ethnicity. Serial HbA1c and SBP (range 3–6 readings) over the 2 years prior to photographic screening of DR were collected. Intrapersonal mean and SD values for HbA1c (iM‐HbA1c and iSD‐HbA1c) and SBP (iM‐SBP and iSD‐SBP) were derived. Moderate DR was assessed from digital retinal photographs and defined as levels >43 using the Early Treatment Diabetic Retinopathy Study scale.

Results

Cases of moderate DR had higher iM‐HbA1c (8.2 % vs 7.3 %; P = 0.001), iSD‐HbA1c (1.22 vs 0.64; P = 0.001), iM‐SBP (136.8 vs 129.6 mmHg; P = 0.001) and iSD‐SBP (13.3 vs 11.1; P = 0.002) than controls. In the multivariate regression model adjusted for age, gender, ethnicity, duration of diabetes, SBP, and HbA1c, iM‐HbA1c and iM‐SBP were significantly associated with moderate DR (odds ratio [OR] 1.80, 95 % confidence interval [CI] 1.37–2.36; and OR 1.03, 95 % CI 1.01–1.05, respectively). Neither iSD‐HbA1c nor iSD‐SBP were associated with moderate DR. When stratified by HbA1c <7 %, only iSD‐SBP remained significantly associated with moderate DR (OR 1.11, 95 % CI 1.01–1.21).

Conclusion

In a cohort of Asian patients with T2D, both higher mean HbA1c levels and SBP, but not their variability, were associated with moderate DR. Among those with good glycemic control, wider variability of SBP is associated with moderate DR.
Hyperendemic Campylobacter jejuni in guinea pigs (Cavia porcellus) raised for food in a semi‐rural community of Quito, Ecuador
Authors: Graham Jay P. , Vasco Karla , Trueba Gabriel
Published: April 2016

Domestic animals and animal products are the source of pathogenic Campylobacter jejuni and C. coli in industrialized countries, yet little is known about the transmission of these bacteria in developing countries. Guinea pigs (Cavia porcellus) are commonly raised for food in the Andean region of South America, however, limited research has characterized this rodent as a reservoir of zoonotic enteric pathogens. In this study, we examined the prevalence of Campylobacter spp. in 203 fecal samples from domestic animals of 59 households in a semi‐rural parish of Quito, Ecuador. Of the twelve animal species studied, guinea pigs showed the highest prevalence of C. jejuni (n = 39/40; 97.5%). Multilocus sequence typing (MLST) was used to characterize the genetic relationship of C. jejuni from domestic animals and 21 sequence types (STs) were identified. The majority of STs from guinea pigs appeared to form new clonal complexes that were not related to STs of C. jejuni isolated from other animal species and shared only a few alleles with other C. jejuni previously characterized. The study identifies guinea pigs as a major reservoir of C. jejuni and suggests that some C. jejuni strains are adapted to this animal species.
Mining metagenomic whole genome sequences revealed subdominant but constant Lactobacillus population in the human gut microbiota
Authors: Rossi Maddalena , Martínez‐Martínez Daniel , Amaretti Alberto , Ulrici Alessandro , Raimondi Stefano , Moya Andrés
Published: April 2016

The genus Lactobacillus includes over 215 species that colonize plants, foods, sewage and the gastrointestinal tract (GIT) of humans and animals. In the GIT, Lactobacillus population can be made by true inhabitants or by bacteria occasionally ingested with fermented or spoiled foods, or with probiotics. This study longitudinally surveyed Lactobacillus species and strains in the feces of a healthy subject through whole genome sequencing (WGS) data‐mining, in order to identify members of the permanent or transient populations. In three time‐points (0, 670 and 700 d), 58 different species were identified, 16 of them being retrieved for the first time in human feces. L. rhamnosus, L. ruminis, L. delbrueckii, L. plantarum, L. casei and L. acidophilus were the most represented, with estimated amounts ranging between 6 and 8 Log (cells g−1), while the other were detected at 4 or 5 Log (cells g−1). 86 Lactobacillus strains belonging to 52 species were identified. 43 seemingly occupied the GIT as true residents, since were detected in a time span of almost 2 years in all the three samples or in 2 samples separated by 670 or 700 d. As a whole, a stable community of lactobacilli was disclosed, with wide and understudied biodiversity.
Simulation‐based assessment of dynamicN‐mixture models in the presence of density dependence and environmental stochasticity
Authors: Bellier Edwige , Kéry Marc , Schaub Michael
Published: April 2016

Estimating survival and recruitment over large spatial scales is extremely challenging because it requires ‘expensive’ demographic data from marked animals. DynamicN‐mixture models (Dail & Madsen) yield estimates of abundance, apparent survival, recruitment and detection probability from simple counts replicated in space and time, as frequently collected in monitoring programmes all over the world. However, the vital rates are assumed to be density‐independent and constant over time, arguably unrealistic assumptions in many situations.

We evaluated the performance of the traditional dynamicN‐mixture model from simulated data generated with density dependence and environmental stochasticity in the vital rates. We then developed a series of more advanced models that take density‐dependent vital rates and environmental stochasticity into account and assessed whether these models provide accurate estimates of vital rates, strength of density dependence and levels of environmental stochasticity.

We found that the traditional Dail–Madsen model produced accurate estimates of abundances and vital rates when the assumptions were met, but not when vital rates were subject to density dependence and environmental stochasticity.

Accurate parameter estimates were generally obtained when the data generation matched the data analysis model, but accuracy was substantially reduced otherwise. Interestingly, accurate estimates of abundance and detection were obtained from all models, regardless of the data generation model. Shorter time series from more sites yielded estimates of similar accuracy as longer series from fewer sites.

The new dynamicN‐mixture models represent a promising basis for developing integrated population models that combine data from different sources to get insights into population dynamics of species over large areas.
Prenatal phthalate exposure: epigenetic changes leading to lifelong impact on steroid formation
Authors: Martinez‐Arguelles D. B. , Papadopoulos V.
Published: April 2016

Endocrine disruptors (ED) are environmental pollutants that mimic endogenous hormonal signals. Exposure to EDs during fetal and early life is a public health concern because these are periods characterized by high cellular plasticity that influence the physiology and development of disease later in life. Phthalates are plasticizers used in the industry to manufacture polyvinyl chloride products and several consumer products. Di(2‐ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) is one of the most produced plasticizers; it is ubiquitously found contaminating the environment, and has been shown to be an ED. Human exposure to phthalates starts during fetal development and continues after birth through contact of the newborn with the environment and contaminated food sources. We used a rat model in which pregnant dams are gavaged with DEHP from gestational day 14 until birth to study the long‐term effects of DEHP. This window of fetal exposure results in decreased circulating testosterone and aldosterone levels in adult male offspring and estradiol in the female. The observed steroid changes are likely of an epigenetic origin as DEHP is rapidly cleared after birth. Here, we review the long‐term effects of fetal exposure to DEHP with a focus on the molecular and epigenetic changes, including DNA methylation, which may mediate long‐term endocrine dysfunction.
Standard corneal collagen crosslinking versus transepithelial iontophoresis‐assisted corneal crosslinking, 24 months follow‐up: randomized control trial
Authors: Bikbova Guzel , Bikbov Mukharram
Published: April 2016

Purpose

To compare the results of standard corneal crosslinking (CXL) and transepithelial iontophoresis‐assisted CXL after 24 months follow‐up.

Material and methods

Corneal crosslinking (CXL) was performed in a series of 149 eyes of 119 patients with keratoconus I–II of Amsler classification. Depending on the CXL method, patients were divided into two groups: (1) 73 eyes with standard CXL and (2) 76 eyes with transepithelial iontophoresis‐assisted CXL. Depending on the group, epithelium removal or administration of riboflavin solution by iontophoresis for 10 min was performed, after which standard surface UVA irradiation (370 nm, 3 mW/cm2) was performed at a 5‐cm distance for 30 min.

Results

A statistically significant difference in corrected distance visual acuity (CDVA) was observed between the two groups, with a better outcome in the second group after 6 months (p = 0.037); however, no significant difference was found 24 months after treatment (p = 0.829). Stabilization and regression of keratometry values were achieved in both groups, but standard CXL was more effective. The average demarcation line depth in the standard CXL group was 292 ± 14 μm after 14 days and 172 ± 16 μm in the transepithelial iontophoresis‐assisted CXL group. No demarcation line was detected after 1 month and 3 months in 45% and 100% of the eyes in the second group respectively.

Conclusion

Transepithelial iontophoresis‐assisted collagen crosslinking showed to be less effective than standard CXL after 24 months of follow‐up, possibly due to a more superficial formation of corneal collagen crosslinks, however the stopping of disease progression was achieved 24 months after procedure.
The Regulatory Fit of Serial Entrepreneurship Intentions
Authors: Simmons Sharon A. , Carr Jon C. , Hsu Dan K. , Shu Cheng
Published: April 2016

The question why some entrepreneurs self‐select out of entrepreneurial careers following exits from successful and failed businesses is of growing interest to entrepreneurship scholars. Using two studies and Regulatory Fit Theory as the theoretical lens, we address this question. Study 1 uses the experimental vignette methodology to test whether business exits under harvest and distress conditions diminished or intensified the serial entrepreneurship intentions of 74 experienced entrepreneurs. Study 2 examines the relationship between the serial entrepreneurship intentions of 196 entrepreneurs who exited businesses and their recall of prior experiences with business success or failure. In both studies, we find evidence of a negative relationship between prevention‐focused cognition and serial entrepreneurship intentions that intensifies from the regulatory fit of distress business exits. The results of both studies suggest that the cognitive lenses used by entrepreneurs to process their business exits play important roles in their intentions to pursue serial entrepreneurship.