bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Un catholicisme de résignation en Haïti
Authors: Souffrant Claude
Published: March 2007

Under-development has been identified as this century's plague. Today, the numerous development actions, missions and inquiries all come to the same conclusion : development is checked and even stopped by mental structures, ideological factors, religious beliefs. This empirical finding bears out a long series of theoretical studies. For sociologists and eco nomists alike, from Weber to Tawney and Sombart, never stopped to investigate the influence of religious factors in the development of industrial civilization.

However, the question remains : among all the religions found in a given milieu, which one is actually a check or a prime-mover of development ? Which one encourages sub missiveness to a given social set up ? Is this submissiveness really due to religion, or rather to the current social system ?

All these problems are approached in this book from the Haitian point of view and on the documentary basis of the content analysis of a religious text-book.
The Transformation of Religious Symbols : A Case Study of St. Nicholas
Authors: Bock E. Wilbur
Published: March 2007

Le processus d'institutionnalisation et de diffusion du chris tianisme comporte la confrontation de celui-ci avec des sym boles, des croyances et des pratiques populaires persistantes. Une des issues fréquentes est la fusion de ces «items» popu laires avec les « items » officiels. Cependant, cette fusion n'a pas toujours été totale : une série d'items populaires ont con tinué à être associés à des communautés socio-religieuses restreintes plutôt qu'aux organisations religieuses formelles. Le conflit entre les deux systèmes de croyances s'est main tenu implicitement. Beaucoup d'items populaires ayant perdu leur liaison directe avec les organisations religieuses formelles ont dès lors subi un mouvement de sécularisation plus im portant que les items profondément enracinés dans les orga nisations religieuses. Ces items populaires émasculés, relégués dans la sous-culture de l'enfance ont longtemps symbolisé les moments profanes du comportement lors des fêtes reli gieuses. Une étude détaillée de la transformation de la St Nicolas illustrera notre propos. Il apparaîtra même possible d'appliquer les généralisations acquises à partir des transfor mations de ce symbole à d'autres items populaires.
La Religion du paysan haïtien De l'anathème au dialogue
Authors: Souffrant Claude
Published: March 2007

During the space of a few years, religion in Haiti has just been witnessing a turning point. In the attitude towards the 'African' religion of the local peasant, anathema has given place to dialogue. This article maps out the paths that have led to this. Drawing on documentary sources already available, mainly social anthropological research and pastoral literature, the writer traces out the underlying line of development, offering the reader a reflection on an aspect of social change in a 'traditional' society in which, characteristically, the religious factor carries great weight.
Discours religieux et métamorphose des pratiques sociales
Authors: Rousseau André , Dassetto Felice
Published: March 2007

The sermonizing in the Catholic Church aims at producing a speech which participates in the ritual moment in which it is produced and the universe of meaning of those to whom it is addressed at the same time — to clarify : the faithful united in congregation. It is a question of bringing to light several aspects of semiotic and sociological logic to work in this pro duction. The sermonly production is registered, in a dominant way, in an asymmetrical social relation around the couple clergy/laymen. The former is the legitimate producer of a sociopolitical knowledge of which the legitimacy of production passes across the mediation of religious knouledge. This is, in effect, the only one to be perceived, by the producers of speech, as capable of furnishing to speech itself a legitimacy, and thus as capable of reaffirming the asymmetric position in the pro duction process.
Paul VI et la paix Analyse de sept discours pontificaux
Authors: Bastenier Albert
Published: March 2007

Starting from the statement that the great religions support the idea that peace is intimately linked to their vision of the universe, the author analyzes seven recent speeches of Pope Paul VI on this subject.

He successively examines the following questions : 1) to whom is the Pope addressing himself and what does he say to each of his addrcssees ? 2) what is the ideological content of the pontifical messages ? The conclusions show that the Pope's speeches are situated on the abstract level of a pure announcement of peace and of an individual ethical exhorta tion. The social problems considered are those which have already been recognized by the institutionalized social author ities. Thus the ideological neutrality of the Pope is relatively limited.
Influence of Anionic Dye Sorption Properties on the Color of Wool Top
Authors: Golob V. , Benkovi S. Čelan , Golob D. , Fakin D.
Published: March 2007

When wool dyeing with anionic dyes, "right-first-time" production and "batch-to-batch" color reproduction depend on the physicochemical properties of the wool fibers, the sorption properties of the dyes, and numerous technological parameters in the dyeing process. In this research, the effects of two process parameters (pH of dyebath and liquor-to-wool ratio) on dye sorption are investigated during batch dyeing of wool top and, consequently, with regard to color. Dyeing involves four anionic dyes—one acid dye (yellow) and three 1:2 metal-complex dyes (yellow, red, and blue). Dye sorption from unicomponent and bicomponent dyebaths is determined using on-line absorbance measurements, and the color of the dyed samples is evaluated colorimetrically using the CIELAB color system. The results indicate significant differences in the sorptions of the dyes with variations in dyebath pH and liquor ratio, which lead to color differences in wool production.
Structure and Performance of Elastic Core-Spun Yarn
Authors: Su Ching-Iuan , Maa Meei-Chyi , Yang Hsiao-Ying
Published: March 2007

In this experiment, we use a 44.4 dtex/4f spandex filament as the core and cotton fibers as the sheath to spin 19.7 tex elastic core-spun yarn. In order to improve yarn performance, we examine the yams cross-sectional structure and investigate the effect of draw ratio and feed-in angle of the spandex on the yarns' structure and performance. The results show that a higher feed-in angle provides a better cover effect and a draw ratio of 3.5 yields better dynamic elastic recovery.
Use of Supersonics in the Preparation of Fiber Samples for Electron-Microscope Studies
Authors: Frey-Wyssling A. , Mühlethaler K.
Published: March 2007

In response to a request by TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL for a brief report of the use of supersonics in the preparation of fiber samples for studies with the elec tron microscope at the Institute of Plant Physiology, Zürich, Switzerland, Dr. Frey-Wyssling, Director of the Institute, submitted this paper for publication.

It will be noted that the photographs show the typical fibrillation of fibers similar to that obtained in a ball mill except that they are much clearer. There is less debris attached to the fine strands which seem to have been separated into finer and finer units as described by the authors. If these photomicrographs are studied under a magnifying glass considerable detail can be observed.
Discussion of Published Papers
Authors: Stearns E.I.
Published: March 2007

In this department from time to time are published discussions of papers which have appeared in previous issues of this publication. These are presented in the belief that such discussion will result in bringing out additional information with respect to a given subject. The JOURNAL welcomes comments concerning papers which it publishes. When possible, additional data from the correspondent's re search should be incorporated. The editors of course reserve the right to decide whether comments will or will not be published in this department.
Detergency Studies
Authors: Utermohlen William P. , Wallace E. Louise
Published: March 2007

A survey of the literature and the practice of detergency as applied to textiles has indicated that the manufacture of successful detergents has progressed further than has the fundamental science of detergency. Many of the basic factors in soiling of textile fibers and fabrics, and in cleaning of the soiled materials, are not yet fully recognized and satisfactorily understood. Better answers are needed to questions such as these: What forces hold particles of soil in contact with fibers? How deeply does dirt penetrate into yarns and fabrics, and how tenaciously is it held therein? How does a detergent act in removing dirt particles from fibers? What part of the dirt in or on a fiber is removable by detergent processes?

The work on detergency reported in the three papers published below was done at the Institute of Textile Technology.

The first two present an initial study of the mechanisms of soiling of cloth, and of the cleaning of soiled cloth, using mixed pigment-oil soils. By using a pigment whose presence can be accurately determined by chemical analysis, a definite im provement in the quantitative understanding of these processes has been made; this technique appears to be new. The washing of lightly and severely soiled sam ples has demonstrated that there is a qualitative as well as a quantitative difference between the two, and thus has contributed to the understanding of how solid soil clings to cloth.

The third paper reports a study of the effect of various soiling mixtures and storage conditions upon the ease of washing of soiled cloth. It was found that soiled cloth becomes more difficult to wash after it has been stored for several weeks or months unless the oils in the mixtures used to soil the cloth are inert to the oxidizing action of air and unless the storage conditions are dry. Use of oils which undergo oxidative polymerization ( particularly linseed and tung oils) was found to lead to permanent binding of pigment soil and cloth; this process appeared to be aided by the presence of moisture. The work reported in the three papers was done in order to establish a basis for comparative laboratory testing of detergents and washing processes and for other studies of practical value in textile detergency.
Location of Areas of Reaction in Chemically Treated Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Tripp V.W. , Moore A.T. , de Gruy I.V. , Rollins M.L.
Published: March 2007

The modification of cotton cellulose by environmental conditions or by chemical treat ments for specific end uses ordinarily occurs at submicroscopic levels. Observations with the electron microscope have proven to be useful in delineating regions of the fiber cellulose affected by a variety of treatments, including dyeing, mercerization, acid and enzymatic hydrolysis, derivative formation, and resin impregnation. The appearance of fiber fragments treated in these ways or derived from treated fibers is illustrated and discussed.
A Measure of the Variation in Blend Proportions Along Blended Yarns and its Relation to the Number of Doublings Used in Processing
Authors: Walker P.G.
Published: March 2007

Measurements of short-term variations in blend proportions along the length of a yarn are compared with the variations predicted theoretically. For few doublings the ob served variation is found to be greater than the theoretical variation. The results are used to express, as an equivalent number of doublings, the action of the card on this variation in blend proportion.
A Structural Comparison of Films Regenerated from Cellulose Acetate and Viscose
Authors: Haskell V.C. , Owens D.K.
Published: March 2007

Cellulose films having radically different physical properties were prepared by the standard viscose process and by the deacetylation of commercial cellulose acetate film. These films were characterized by x-ray, acid hydrolysis, differential swelling in caustic, and light and electron microscopy of freshly torn edges.

Measurements by x-ray and acid hydrolysis reveal that the film from cellulose acetate has less crystalline material and smaller crystallite size than the viscose film. By drfferential swelling in caustic the film from cellulose acetate was shown to have less highly ordered material than the viscose film.

Light and electron microscopy of freshly torn edges of the two films reveal a com mon structural element. Fibrils were seen, the size of which did not vary appreciably between the two films. The arrangement of the fibrils in the internal structure of the films was markedly different.

By considering the data obtained from these different sources, an explanation of the property difference and its relation to fine structure can be postulated.
Changes in the Physical Properties of Cotton on Cross-Linking
Authors: Steiger Fred H. , Wang Stella Y. , Hurwitz Melvin D.
Published: March 2007

The pour crease recovery-strength relationship exhibited by cotton which has been reacted with formaldehyde by a dry curing process has been shown to be primarily a function of the formal linkage and not of the degradative effects of acid Inconsistencies in results obtained with formaldehyde are associated with the slow rate of hemiformal formation in the padding bath.

Cotton in the wet state can be cross-linked by means of hemiacetal linkages with glyoxal, and it has been shown that the strength loss produced by cured dimethylol ethyleneurea at a given level of crease recovery is comparable to that obtained from uncured glyoxal in the absence of those degradative effects associated with the hot. acidic curing of thermosetting finishes

The ratio of wet to dry crease recovery suggests that the areas of cellulose and/or the hydroxyl groups which are involved when cotton is cross-linked in glyoxal solutions are the same as those involved in the dry curing of cross-linkers A high wet to dry crease recovery ratio evidently requires that cross-linking at some stage take place in a state of swelling beyond that found during the application of typical aqueous cotton creaseproofing reagents. The thests that different areas and or hydroxyl groups are involved in the attamment of wet and dry crease recovery is further supported by experiments in which dry crease recovery was obtamed on cotton independently of the high wet crease recovery which had been established first
Investigation of the Catalyst in the Cellulose-DMEU, Reaction
Authors: Ziifle Hilda M. , Berni Ralph J. , Benerito Ruth R.
Published: March 2007

Cotton print cloth (80 X 80) has been treated with 8% solutions of DMEU in the presence of inorganic salt catalysts at constant molar concentration of the metallic ion. The four catalysts employed—MgCl2, Zn(NO3)2, Mg(NO3)2, and ZnCl2—were studied at 0.006 M, 0.03 M, and 0.1 M concentrations. A comparative study has been made of the physical and chemical properties, swelling behavior as revealed by microscopical techniques, and infrared absorption spectra of all specimens. It has been found that absorption spectra differ with treatment, depending on the absence or presence of a catalyst; that the catalyst enters into the reaction; and that the final properties of the treated fabrics are influenced by catalyst concentration. Consideration is also given to the effect of catalyst upon chlorine damage.
omparison of Ultraviolet Light Absorbers for Protection of Wool Against Yellowing
Authors: Gordon Rose W. , Walden Mayo K. , Moore Joseph E.
Published: March 2007

The use of ultraviolet light absorbers to protect wool against yellowing by ultraviolet light is reported. The substances tested were evaluated by measuring the change in the reflectance of treated and untreated wool cloth, after irradiation with several light sources. Great differences were observed in the protection obtained from substances having similar strong absorption spectra in the ultraviolet. Substituted benzophenones were effective protective agents, but the method of application is important. The best results were ohtained with sulfonated substituted benzophenones, applied from hot. aqueous solutions having a pH of about 1.5. The protection afforded by this treatment was partly retained after washing with soap and water. Unsulfonated substituted benzophenones having about the same absorption characteristics, applied from alcoholic solutions, were inuch less effective. The implications of these results are briefly dis cussed.
The Effect of Spinneret Hole Length on Fiber Diameter; A Means for Measuring Polymer Solution Inhomogeneities
Authors: Bostwick Charles O.
Published: March 2007

The single fibers from a multiple spinneret having holes of equal diameter but of different lengths may have considerably different diameters. suggesting the use of Poiseuille's formula for flow through capillary tubes to describe or predict the effect.

A simple spinneret having four holes of equal diameter and known differing cylin drical hole lengths (10 times the sizes used for fiber sprinning) was built to test polymer solutions. The long hules extruded less material than the short holes for a homogeneous polymer solution or liquid The amount extruded from each hole was consistent with the amount calculated by Poiseuille's formula. However, when gelatinous masses were present in the polymer solution. Poiseuille's formula was no longer applicable, an increase in the material coming from the longer holes always being noted. This increase m percent material could be used as a test for the degree of solution inhomogeneity.

When an inhomogeneous polymer solution was spun into fibers, the occurrence of thick-and-thin filaments was noticeable when different portions of the same fiber were examined in the vibroscope.
Yarn Temperatures Attained During Cyclic Straining and the Heat Transfer Properties of Yarns
Authors: Hamilton R.L. , Miller C.H.
Published: March 2007

This work was done to show that varn temperatures, during cyclic straining, can rise appreciably above ambient temperatures and to develop methods of predicting these temperatures. Yarn temperatures were calculated from a thermodynamic analysis of the cyclic straining process in terms of the heat transfer parameters of the yarn. The predicted temperatures were compared and found to agree with temperatures measured during cyclic straining. As a result, yarn temperatures can be computed from easily measured experimental parameters. The value of the heat transfer coefficient was found to be 3.6 (10)-3 cal/sec-°C-cm2, which agrees with values found by other means. The areas for heat transfer were also measured. These area values indicated that the yarn acts essentially as a closed bundle.
The Distribution of Oxymethylene Groups in Formaldehyde-Treated Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Jones D.M.
Published: March 2007

A method of deducing the chemical distribution of oxymethylene groups in cotton treated with (a) formaldehyde in the presence of acid and (b) methylene chloride in the presence of alkali by comparing their relative rates of acid hydrolysis with those of a series of model compounds is described.

Aqueous-acid and acid-bake formaldehyde processes form oymetlylene cross-links between secondary hydroxyl groups in different anhydroglucose units as well as some polyoxymethylene links, whereas methylene chloride produces, in addition, links between primary, hydroxyl positions. The influence of hydrogen bonding and the proximity of acetyl groups on the acid-stability of the oxymethylene link is discussed and several new compounds are reported.

A comparison of the mechanical properties of the chemically modified cotton fabrics suggests that cross-linking is the major cause of loss in strength and that the physical position of the links within the cellulose structure is more important than their exact chemical nature.
Mechanics of Elastic Performance of Textile Materials
Authors: Freeston W. Denney , Platt Milton M.
Published: March 2007

Recovery from bending is an important end use requirement of most textile struc tures, being directly related, for example, to crease recovery of apparel fabries. Al though fabric bending recovery is influenced by yarn and fabric geometry, filament bending recovery plays a significant role. Thus, an understanding of the influence of filament properties on filament bending recovery is essential to the understanding of fabric bending recovery.

An analysis of the bending recovery of filaments is presented. The filaments arc assumed to be linearly elastic for tensile stresses below the yield stress, and to have a sharply defined yield point. The filaments are further assumed to exhibit linear work-hardening beyond the yield, and to have the same properties in compression as in tension. Time effects, although not explicitly included, are discussed. The tensile behaviur of fine-diameter metal wire and several polymeric filaments is approximated by these assumptions.

The analytical expressions obtained for the recovered radii of curvature of circular filaments as a function of the filament diameter, material properties, and initial radius of curvature are verified experimentally. The rigidity and bending recovery of ribbon and circular filaments of the same material and tensile strength are compared.

Future publications, the basic work for which has been completed, will extend the analysis to twisted singles yarns, and woven and nonwoven fabrics.
The Thermal Conductivity of a Multilayer Sample of Underwear Material under a Variety of Experimental Conditions
Authors: Hoge Harold J. , Fonseca George F.
Published: March 2007

Results of measurements of the thermal conductivity of a sample of twelve layers of standard underwear material (50% wool, 50% cotton) are presented. Temperature was varied from about 65° to ahout 135° F. pressure (air) was varied from less than 0.1 mm Hg to atmospheric, and sample density was varied from about 14 to about 20 lb/ft3. Some measurements were made with the air removed from the sample chamber and water introduced. Measurements were also made with the air in the sample chamber replaced by helium or by Freon-12 (CCl 2F2). All measurements were made on the same sample, under carefully controlled conditions. Therefore these data should have greater validity than results obtained in different apparatuses under varying conditions. The reported values are believed tc be accurate to ± 2%.
A Computer for the Evaluation of the Crimp Diameter of Textile Fibers
Authors: Shiloh M. , Fuchs A. , Netter Z.
Published: March 2007

An analog computer has been successfully used to measure the crimp of cotton fibers. Fibers are photographed from two perpendicular planes and the projected photographs are traced with a device which generates a voltage that is fed into the computer. The computer calculates the least-mean-square deviation of each traced curve, and from the readings of two perpendicular projections, the crimp diameter may he calculated.
Changes in Fibrillate Structures of Cottons on Hydrolysis and Oxidation
Authors: Porter Blanche R. , Goynes Wilton R.
Published: March 2007

Four modified cottons—mercerized sliver, a partially acetylated fabric, and two cross- linked fabries—were exposed to hydrochloric and sulfuric acids, sodium periodate, nitro gen tetroxide, hydrogen peroxide, ozone, and heat for intervals selected to illustrate early and late stages of fiber degradation. Electron micrographs were made in order to observe changes in tihrillate structure. Parallel changes in moisture regain, crystallinity indices. copper number, carboxyl content, and, in some samples, degree of polymerization were measured. Changes in fibrillate structure and other properties were found to be related to the type of modification and the resistance of substituent groups to the degrad ing agents, the activity of these, agents, and to duration of exposure. In general, where substituents were not removed, degradation decreased with increase in content of sub stituent groups in the chemically modified cottons. Mercerization. without further modi fication, caused an increase in rate of degradation.
The Role of Thiol Groups in the Setting of Wool
Authors: Caldwell J.B. , Leach S.J. , Meschers A. , Milligan Brian
Published: March 2007

Evidence is presented for a mechanism of setting in which the know n conformational changes in the poly peptide structure involve disulfide bond rearrangement via thiol disul fide interchange. The new arrangement of disulfide bonds helps to stabilize the new structure if reversion is inhibited by preventing further interchange. Thiol and disulfide analyses of wools before and after setting support this hypothesis. We have found no evidence for the formation of stabilizing cross-links other than disulfide bonds.

This hypothesis accounts for the fact that the rate of setting in boiling water is enhanced by the addition of reducing agents, such as bisulfite or thioglycollate, which generate extra thiol groups It also explains why wool in which the natural thiol groups have been destroyed cannot be set in water but can be set using reducing agents.

The occurrence of thiol disulfide interchange has also been demonstrated during the release of set. Release is accelerated by thiol-producing reagents and retarded by con ditions which inhibit interchange. A higher level of set may therefore be obtained by blocking or oxidizing free thiol groups in the set fibers, particularly after short setting times. Cross-linking reagents are no more effective than monofunctional blocking reagents for this purpose.
A Statistical Method of Characterizing Spinning Quality
Authors: Verbeck Arthur R.
Published: March 2007

This paper is concerned with a least squares iterative method of fitting data to a model developed by Bogdan [1] in his work on the determination of spinning quality Parameters.

The model employed is of the form

where count strength CS is the dependent variable, and twist multiplier M and count C are the independent variables. The parameters introduced have the following mean ing: β = obliquity parameter; ϕ = drafting parameter; π = intrinsic strength para meter; τ = ineffective twist parameter; α = cohesion parameter.

An actual spinning quality parameter analysis is described in detail, and all results are tabulated. This method of analysis can serve as a useful tool in fiber development work.

Parameter values that result from controlled changes in the physical properties of of the fiber can be used as a guide by the experimenter in determining his next course of action.
Wind Penetration through Fabric Systems. Part I
Authors: Fonseca G.F. , Breckenridge J.R.
Published: March 2007

Total and local heat transfer coefficients obtained on heated cylinders under similar environmental conditions of wind speed and air temperature are used as "figures of merit" for comparing fabric systems with different partitional dimensions and material compositions and covered by windbreaks of different permeability. It was found that two moderately air permeable windbreaks with a space between them could provide protection from wind penetration equal to or greater than a single windbreak of low permeability. It was also shown that the variation in heat loss around the cylinder was much greater with certain arrangements of fabric layers than with others even though the average (over-all) coefficients were often the same. This suggests that comparisons of fabric systems based on average or over-all insulating values may be highly misleading, since no indication of potential "cold spots" in a wind (particularly on the windward side) is possible.
Vapor-Phase Acetylation of Piled Sheets of Cellophane
Authors: Saito Masao
Published: March 2007

Vapor-phase acetylation was carried out on samples of piled cellophane sheets that had been impregnated with sodium or potassium acetate. In the case of the samples of 10 sheets, acetic acid content of each sheet did not depend on the situation in the pile but on the kind and amount of impregnants. This is discussed in terms of accessi bility. In the case of the samples of 20 sheets, some sheets in the deepest situation contained the same amount of free acetic acid as the outside sheet did, but were hardly acetylated. This is explained by the difference in penetration rate between acetic acid and acetic anhydride. With these and other facts in mind, it has been concluded that the cross section of acetylated high-tenacity rayon is uniform in acetic acid content.
Phosphorus-Containing Carboxamides and their Evaluation on Cotton Fabrics1
Authors: Chance Leon H. , Reeves Wilson A. , Drake George L.
Published: March 2007

A new compound, tris(2-carbamoylethyl)phosphine, was synthesized by the reaction of ammonium hydroxide with the ethyl or methyl ester of tris (2-carboxyethyl)phosphine. Tris(2-carbamoylethyl)phosphine oxide was also prepared by the method of M. M. Rauhut and others [10]. The methylol derivatives of these two compounds were pre pared and applied to cotton fabric with zinc nitrate and magnesium chloride catalysts. High wrinkle resistance and moderate flame resistance were simultaneously imparted to the fabric. Strength losses were comparable to those of the commonly used methylol- amide finishing agents for cotton. Fabrics treated with either of the compounds were damaged in the chlorine retention test. Both of the fabric finishes were more resistant to acidic than to alkaline hydrolysis, but the phosphine oxide finish was more resistant to both acidic and alkaline hydrolysis than the phosphine finish.
Esterification of Cotton with Certain Monofunc tional Acid Chlorides and the Effect on Crease Recovery
Authors: McKelvey John B. , Benerito Ruth R. , Berni Ralph J.
Published: March 2007

It has been demonstrated that conditioned (dry) crease recovery of cotton fabric can be increased by partial esterification with monofunctional acid chlorides in dimethylform amide. In the range of C8 through C18 acid chlorides studied, the increase in dry-crease recovery varies linearly with the chain length of the added acyl group. Both odd- and even-numbered acyl groups and unsaturated and geometrical isomers have been con sidered. The unsaturated C18 acid chlorides, oleoyl and elaidoyl, were found to be more effective than saturated C18 acid at a similar D.S. The increase in conditioned crease recovery is suggested to be due to esterification in a nonaqueous medium at originally favored water adsorption sites in less ordered regions.
Carding and Combing of Mohair
Authors: Kruger P.J. , Albertyn D.
Published: March 2007

The removal of kemp fibers during the carding of mohair has been studied. Selective kemp collection by the card clothing takes place mainly because of the greater centrifugal force acting on the mohalr fibers of higher density, which move to the outer layers on the card rollers, causing a relative migration of kemp towards the card clothing; also, higher roller surface speed increases the kemp collecting power. The strippers show the highest selective kemp collecting power and the workers the lowest. The material collected by the card clothing consists mainly of short fibers. Fiber breakage in carding is less for kemp than for mohair.
Kinetics of the Pyrolysis of Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Chatterjee Pronoy K. , Conrad Carl M.
Published: March 2007

The kinetics of decomposition of cellulose were studied in the temperature range of 270°-310°C with absorbent cotton and ball-milled scoured cotton, both cut in a Wiley3 mill. The decomposition of cellulose was carried out in a thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) apparatus having precise temperature control, under continuous now of helium gas. The study of the kineties was followed by the determination of the residual weight up to the limiting end point. The data furnished evidence of a complex reaction behavior up to about 40% decomposition and a first-order reaction thereafter. The major reaction of the decomposition of the cellulose molecule was considered as a two- step process: glucosidic bond scission and subsequent levoglucosan formation.

The kinetics of a chain reaction mechanism have been proposed and shown to be con sistent with the experimental data. The energy of activation for the initiation reaction of the original cotton and the hall-milled cellulose was found to be 54.3 kcal/mole and 75.0 kcal mole, respectively. These large differences are believed to be due to differ ences of the fiber structure, induced in the latter case by ball mining. For the propa gation reaction, the activation energy values were 33.0 kcal mole and 37.1 kcal/mole, respectively.
Effect of Phosphoric Acid Treatment on Physical and Chemical Properties of Cotton Fiber1
Authors: Pandey S.N. , Nair Prema
Published: March 2007

Recent work on inter- and intra-crystalline swelling in phosphoric acid has been reviewed. I)etailed chemical treat ments on MCU-3 cotton fibers under different conditions of reaction with phosphoric acid have been reported. Changes in fiber characteristics after swelling have been studied with respect to moisture regain, accessibility by sorption ratio, iodine absorption methods, and degree of polymerization (DP). Effect of treatment on fiber strength, elongation, and other mechanical properties have also been discussed. It is observed that inter- and intra-crystalline swelling of cotton fiber with phosphoric acid depends on temperature, concentration, and various other factors. Treated samples showed appreciable change in moisture regain, accessibility, and DP values with the treatment concentrations above 77% at different temperatures. The changes were more marked when swelling was carried out at 10°C than at a higher tem perature. Relationships between these properties are also discussed and accessibility by iodine absorption, DP, strength, elongation, toughness, and stiffness with the accessibility by moisture sorption ratio have been co-related.
Measurement of Dyeing Defects in Continuous-Filament Yarns
Authors: Sanfokd R.A. , Clardy E.K. , Miller M.L.
Published: March 2007

An automatic instrument has been devetoped for the evaluation of dye uptake nonuniformities of fine-denier, con tiriuous-filament yarns. The instrument provides digital outputs representative of streaks, dark dye defects, and average reflectance of knitted and dyed sleeve samples at the rate of approximately three samples per minute. Instrumental results correlate well with the subjective evaluations of quality-control personnel.
Measurement of Single Jersey Fabric Stiffness : A Simple Method
Authors: Brown Peter
Published: March 2007

A method of measuring the bending length of limp and/or curly fabrics is described. The method is based on Peirce's Heart-Loop test. Results obtained on a set of 12 knit fabrics correlate extremely well with sensory assessments of the bending stiffness. No difficulty was experienced in handling and measuring loose fabrics, and no systematic errors were apparent for curly fabrics. It is concluded that the test provides a method of measuring fabric stiffness with simple unsophisticated equipment for fabrics which were previously difficult or impossible to handle.
A Continuous Monitor of Yarn Uniformity During Melt Spinning
Authors: Davis H.L. , Gorman F.J. , Wesley J.L.
Published: March 2007

A yarn-mass variation instrument is described that can be used to provide a continuous monitor of yarn uniforn ity directly on a melt-spinning machine. The mass uniformity of melt spun yarns is a parameter of commercial importance. but uniformity has traditionally been measured off line, at low speeds, and on only a small portion of the yarn package with a Uster evenness tester. The on-line instrument, an Asahi GQ system, gives an indication of yarn uniformity during spinning via 3 readings that are calculated from the varying yarn modulation of a constant AC signal. 'I'he Asahi readings can be related to the conventional Uster values obtained after the yarn has been spun. The uniformity readings can also determine the nature of the mass nonuniformities arising during spinning and can relate the disturbances to specific portions of the process. The mass variation instrument can therefore be used for on line optimization of varn uniformity in the melt spinning process.
Characterizing the Elastic Behavior of Textile Fabrics in Complex Deformations
Authors: Shanahan W.J. , Lloyd D.W. , Hearle J.W.S.
Published: March 2007

The simulation of complex fabric deformations, in which the textile fabric is treated as a continuous sheet, requires a suitable formulation of the mechanical behavior of the fabric. The problem is considered within the basic framework of the engineering theory of shells and plates, including some features not previously noted in the textile literature. The validity of the assumption of continuity is discussed in view of the structure exhibited by textile fabrics.
Studies on Feltproofing of Wool with a Copper Sulfate-Hydrogen Peroxide System
Authors: Kantouch A. , Bendak A. , Sadek M.
Published: March 2007

Optimization of the reaction conditions between wool and H2O2 in the presence of traces of copper is made to impart the antifelt property to wool. Copper sulfate consumption increases with increase of temperature and reaction time, while H2O2 consumption increases with increasing copper sulfate content of wool. Copper sulfate pretreatment is essential to impart the antifelt property to wool by the studied system. Aftertreatment with dilute H2SO4 or with acidified sulfite solution showed that there is no significant difference between the two-aftertreatments in imparting the antifelt property to wool.

The present antifelt treatment increases wool affinity to dyeing. The fastness of acid, mordant, metal complex, and reactive dyes is not altered, The present antifelt treatment, applied to dyed wool, has no bad effect on color shades. It decreases the sulfur, cystine, tyrosine, and tryptophan contents and increases the alkali, urea bisulfite soluhilities of the treated wool.
Foam Finishing of Cotton-Containing Textiles
Authors: Namboodri Chettoor G. , Duke Marshall W.
Published: March 2007

A wet-processing technology which uses air instead of water as the primary diluent has been developed. The process consists of mechanically foaming a suitably formulated finish or dye formulation and then applying the foam to textile fabrics. Collapse of the foam distributes the finish on the substrate. The fabric is then subjected to conventional drying and fixing operations. The main advantage of the foam process resides in the substantial energy savings achievable in the drying of fabrics due to the replacement of water with air in the finish. Utilization of foams for the finishing of cotton and cotton/polyester fabrics are described. Plant data have established that energy savings as high as 70-80% can be achieved in foam finishing of cotton-containing textiles. In addition, in certain cases line speeds have been doubled. The foam process is currently used in plants for durable-press finishing, shrinkage control, and softener appli cation to a variety of cotton and polyester/cotton blend fabrics.
Spontaneous Transplanar Uptake of Liquids by Fabrics
Authors: Miller B. , Tyomkin I.
Published: March 2007

A sensitive gravimetric method is described which is capable of measuring the rate and total amount of uptake of liquid in the direction perpendicular to the plane of a fabric under known negative pressure gradients. This version of the so-called demand wettability experiment is especially useful when spontaneous transplanar uptake is rapid. Two experimental variables have been examined: the effect of the filter paper used to hold the liquid column in contact with the specimen and the influence of compression of the fabric. A number of system parameters have also been investigated: the surface tension of the wetting liquid, durable press resin treatment of a cotton fabric, several surface treatments of a wool fabric, the proportions of polyester and cotton in blended fabrics, and differences between three commercial paper towels.
Crystallization of Amorphous Cellulose
Authors: Bhama Iyer P. , Sreenivasan S. , Chidambareswaran P.K. , Patil N.B.
Published: March 2007

Recrystallization behavior of the hydrolysates of native and thrice mercerized cotton, ball-milled to yield samples of different amorphity, was studied using x-ray diffraction. For crystallization of amorphous cellulose into cellulose I lattice, the presence of cellulose I nuclei seems to be a prerequisite. In a partially ball-milled cellulose I . sample, crystallization into cellulose II does not start until the amorphous content is as high as 75% or more. Results are discussed on the basis of the current ideas of the fine structure of fibers.
A Modified Analysis of the Microstructural Characteristics of General Fiber Assemblies
Authors: Ning Pan
Published: March 2007

A critical problem in the study by Komori and Makishima about the microstructural characterization of general fiber assemblies is analyzed, and a modified approach is presented in this paper. The modified theory is able to predict satisfactorily such , parameters as the mean values of the number of fiber contacts and fiber segments between contacts in an unbonded fiber system. For a bonded fibrous structure like a nonwoven material, the relative proportions, the distributions of the bond lengths, and the free fiber lengths are also provided based on the modified theory. The theory has been applied to three typical fibrous systems to calculate the microstructural pa rameters that are believed useful for further studies of these systems.
Splicing of Jute Yarn by the Wrapping Method
Authors: Neogi S.K. , Bhattacharyya P.K.
Published: March 2007

Splicing by the wrapping method has been studied for jute yarns spun on flyer and wrap spinning systems. Load-elongation properties of the spliced yarns are affected by the splicing duration and length, but not by the splicing materials. Splicing by the wrapping method produces a very strong joint in flyer as well as wrapped spun yams, particularly at increased splicing lengths, and strength retention increases to a similar extent. While the flyer spun yam registers higher elongation retention, after splicing the wrapped spun yam shows higher work of rupture at each splicing length. Because the thickness of a splice is much less than that of a knot (dog knot), the spliced yarn causes significantly lower tension fluctuations during weaving than the knotted yarn.
A New Approach for Evaluating the Frictional Behavior of Cotton Fibers
Authors: El Mogahzy Yehia E. , Broughton Roy M.
Published: March 2007

This study presents a new approach for characterizing the frictional behavior of cotton fibers. Fiber-to-fiber or fiber-to-metal friction is determined over length incre ments of a fiber fringe, each containing a different number of contacting fibers. The total sliding distance corresponds to the maximum fiber length in the sample. The resulting relationship between frictional force and sliding distance is termed the "friction profile" of fibers, and it can be used to determine the frictional force corresponding to a certain fiber intensity. The nonlinear nature of this profile is represented by an equation of the form F = ao( nf) 2(1- n), where n f is an estimated value of the number of contacting fibers, F is the frictional force, and ao and n are friction indexes. Using the principle of the fiber friction profile, a measuring technique is described for mea suring both fiber/ fiber and fiber/metal friction parameters. This technique is believed to simulate fiber friction in both processing and deformation modes. Although friction in this study was measured only for cotton, other kinds of staple fibers (natural or synthetic) can also be tested.
Effects of Silicone Softeners and Silane Coupling Agents on the Performance Properties of Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Jang K.O. , Yeh K.
Published: March 2007

We have investigated the effects of reactive and organofunctional silicone softeners and silane coupling agents on the performance properties of cotton fabrics. The silicone softeners were aminofunctional polydimethylsiloxane, reactive polydimethylsiloxane of high viscosity, and hydroxy-end-blocked reactive polydimethylsiloxane of low vis cosity. A cationic softener, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, was also used for comparison. Methyltrimethoxysilane, glycidoxy (epoxy) propyltrimethoxysilane, vi nyltriethoxysilane, and aminoethylaminopropyltrimethoxysilane were the coupling agents. Cotton fabric samples were treated with a pad-dry-cure process from an aqueous bath containing the softener and other additives. The results indicate that silicone softeners provide better durable press performance with a higher retention of me chanical properties and durability compared with the cationic softener. In addition, the type of reactive group, the viscosity, and the adsorption mechanism of the softener, as well as treatment conditions such as curing temperature, are crucial factors affecting the performance properties of the treated fabrics. Furthermore, the study of the silane coupling agent revealed that it plays an important role in improving the durability and performance of silicone softeners, especially the linear reactive type. The results also suggest that improvements in wrinkle recovery are mainly due to the formation of an elastic silicone polymer network, which entrapps fibers within its matrix, thus improving the fabric's ability to recover from deformation.
Influence of Surface Roughness of Woven Geotextiles on Interfacial Frictional Behavior—Evaluation Through Model Experiments
Authors: Kabeya H. , Karmokar A.K. , Kamata Y. , Tsunoda S.
Published: March 2007

Geotextiles used as reinforcing elements in soil structures transfer a majority of the shear stress from the soil to the reinforcement by friction. The interfacing ability manifested by soil/geotextile frictional contact is thus very important in the perfor mance of reinforced soil structures. In this study, the interaction criteria of geotextiles with soil are evaluated by conducting model pull-out friction tests in a laboratory. The study includes an investigation of the influence of surface roughness of different woven geotextiles embedded in glass beads on interfacial friction under varying normal stresses. Pull-out friction tests on embossed acrylic plates are also done in the same manner to support beads/geotextile friction test results. The surface roughness of woven geotextiles can influence in-soil frictional behavior depending on the relationship between soil particle size and surface asperity of the geotextile: the closest fit of soil particles into the surface irregularities gives the maximum frictional resistance.
Influence of a Chlorination Treatment on Wool Dyeing
Authors: Jocic Dragan , Jovancic Petar , Trajkovic Rista , Seles Gizela
Published: March 2007

We examined the exhaustion and penetration of four wool dyes with different struc tures and different dyeing characteristics on untreated and Basolan DC treated wool fibers. The results indicate that chlorination contributes considerably to an increase in the rate of dye exhaustion as well as dye penetration rates. A comparison of these parameters shows that in the case of chlorinated wool, surface adsorption processes precede dye penetration, indicating a change in the surface characteristics of the wool. We measured the extent of wool damage using the alkaline solubility method, and found that chlorinated wool could compensate for differences in dyeing behavior of different wool dyes.
Radio Frequency Drying of Latex Adhesive on Carpet
Authors: Carr Wallace W.
Published: March 2007

We studied the feasibility of using a radio frequency (RF) oven to dry and cure latex adhesive backing on tufted nylon carpet. The drying and curing step in the backcoating operation often limits production speed. Numerous backcoating machines are running at relatively low speeds (in the neighborhood of 15 mpm), which cannot be increased by adding to the oven length because floor space is limited. Since RF ovens generally require much less floor space than convection ovens, we investigated increasing production speeds of dryer-limited backcoaters by retrofitting with RF ovens. Installing an RF oven along with a conventional convection oven, especially as a preheater, offers significant advantages in this regard.