bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
An X-Ray Photoelectron and Electron Spin Resonance Study of Wool Treated with Aqueous Solutions of Chromium and Copper Ions
Authors: Carr C.M. , Evans J.C. , Roberts M.W.
Published: March 2008

X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and electron spin resonance have been used to study the chemical modification of the wool fiber arising from the chrome mordanting process and the cupric ammonium sulfite shrinkproofing treatment. Variations in the sites of reaction and bonding of the metal ions to the wool fiber were observed, and selective removal of copper from the wool surface was demonstrated.
Aerodynamic Removal of Native Dust from Cotton
Authors: Montalvo Joseph G.
Published: March 2008

An aerodynamic model is considered to predict variation in the mass of native dust removed from cotton as a function of velocity of the crossflow of air approaching the fiber. The model incorporates the composition of native dust, the aerodynamic shielding of some particles on the fiber from the drag force, and the cross-sectional density of the exposed batt of fibers. Physical representation of the model is based on a limited number of discrete data points graphically depicted by straight lines between the points. Using the model to simulate aerodynamic removal of native dust from cotton, a graphic representation of the mass of dust removed versus air velocity is predicted to reveal a curve with multiple inflection points. These points correspond to release of different components of the dust (e.g., bract and leaf) from the fiber. The model is compared with an experiment. An actual plot of the amount of dust released from "good ordinary" cotton versus the air velocity approaching the fiber reveals the pre dicted multiple inflection points. The air velocities required for aerodynamic removal of the leaf and bract components of the dust from this cotton are, respectively, 25 m/ s (>50 mph) and 60 m/s (> 130 mph).
Comparing Potential Energy Between Fibers and Particulate Soil with Dynamic Energy from Liquid Flow and Their Effects on Detergency
Authors: Hiramatsu Takashi , Kotani Akiko
Published: March 2008

A theoretical study and analysis of experimental values was done to clarify whether the potential energy between fibers and particulate soil or the dynamic energy from liquid flow influences detergency more strongly. The theoretical treatment shows clearly that particle detachment rate is proportional to ϕ3exp(— K d Vn) and particle redeposition rate is proportional to ϕ3exp(— KrVm), where Vm is the maximum potential energy, Vn is the energy difference between Vm and the potential energy at the closest approach of 5Å for two substrates, ϕ is the liquid flow velocity, and Kd and Kr are constants, respectively. An analysis of the experimental values obtained from cotton fabrics soiled with carbon black particles or clay particles shows that increasing the dynamic energy from liquid flow can only slightly decrease the minimum particle retention, but varying potential energy shows some possibility for decreasing it.
Thermal Response of Cotton Finishes from Methylolamide Agents
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Andrews B.A. Kottes
Published: March 2008

Thermal decomposition of finishes does not seem to occur by a hydrolytic or simple reaction reversal mechanism. A study was conducted of the response of finishes pre pared from several methylolamide agents to the thermal effects of oven treatments at elevated temperatures. The analyses of the finished cottons for nitrogen content, total formaldehyde content, and formaldehyde release after heat treatments provide an indication of the different course of thermal decomposition. Formaldehyde-finished cotton was studied to determine the thermal stability of methylene crosslinks. Changes from heat treatment of cotton containing free formaldehyde were also noted.
Analysis of Some Textile Blends Using Their X-Ray Diffraction Patterns
Authors: Chidambareswaran P.K. , Sreenivasan S. , Patil N.B. , Parthasarathy M.S. , Srinathan B.
Published: March 2008

X-ray diffraction methods were evolved for quantitative analysis of blend compo sitions in cotton/polyester, cotton/viscose, and cotton/polynosic systems. These meth ods compare quite favorably with other accepted procedures.
Repellency of Textile Assemblies
Authors: Kawase Tokuzo , Fujii Tomiko , Minagawa Motoi
Published: March 2008

In a series of studies on the wettability of textile assemblies, apparent contact angles (ϕ) of wax-coated monofilament nylon and polyester mesh screens to water were measured to investigate the effect of the woven structure on the repellency of textiles. Expressions for the liquid-solid and liquid-air interfaces per unit of macroscopic surface area in the Cassie-Baxter equation ( f 1 and f2, respectively) have been derived for mesh screens using several models to calculate the apparent contact angles (ϕ A) theoretically. Comparison with experimental data has shown that the apparent advancing contact angles of water on wax-coated mesh screens can be quantitatively predicted by the Cassie-Baxter equation when the geometrical structure of the surface is accurately defined.
Upholstered Furniture: Results of a Consumer Wear Study
Authors: Warfield Carol L.
Published: March 2008

A consumer wear study was designed to identify differences in performance of four cotton print upholstery fabrics. Sixty occasional chairs in two slightly different styles were used. The chairs were placed in consumers' homes for two years, then returned to the university for analysis. Soiling was the most apparent effect of the wear study, especially on the chair arms and the backs of the high backed style. Fabric from the arms of the chairs had lower breaking strength and elongation values than did fabric from the cushions or chair backs. The lightest weight fabric lost a significantly greater amount of strength during the two-year wear period; the changes from the original values in the other fabrics were much less severe. Several manufacturing related prob lems were identified and subsequently addressed through quality control efforts within the company that manufactured the chairs.
Fine Structure of Cashmere and Superfine Merino Wool Fibers
Authors: Tester D.H.
Published: March 2008

Cashmere down and superfine merino wool fibers obtained from a number of sources were examined by transmission electron microscopy. All fibers, regardless of crimp, showed a bilateral cortical structure. Most cashmere and superfine merino fibers could be distinguished from each other by the nature of their cortical cells. The cortex of cashmere contains predominantly orthocortical and mesocortical cells. The cortex of superfine merino, on the other hand, contains predominantly orthocortical and para- cortical cells. The proportion of orthocortical cells found in the cross sections of su perfine merino wool was slightly higher than for cashmere.
Quantitative Analysis of Crystalline Phases in Chemically Treated Cotton Fibers
Authors: Chidambareswaran P.K. , Sreenivasan S. , Patil N.B.
Published: March 2008

This paper deals with the evaluation of crystal lattice transformations and decrys tallization brought about in cotton fibers by chemical treatments, using x-ray diffiaction techniques. Suitable indices have been evolved to quantify cellulose II and total crys tallinity values, and cotton fibers subjected to widely different chemical treatments have been evaluated. The accuracy of the new indices and their usefulness in routine analysis are enumerated.
Characterizing Aged Textile Fibers by Fourier Transform Infrared Photoacoustic Spectroscopy
Authors: Cardamone Jeanette M. , Gould J.Michael , Gordon S.H.
Published: March 2008

Photoacoustic Fourier transform infrared Spectroscopy has been used to characterize naturally and artificially aged fibers of cotton. Naturally aged cotton fibers from ar cheological sites in the southwest United States exhibited a family of pronounced absorption bands in the C=O stretch region of the infrared spectrum (1600-1750 cm-1) not found in fibers from new cotton cloth. New cotton fibers artificially aged at > 160°C in air exhibited strikingly similar spectral features, along with a severe loss of fiber tensile strength. Cotton artificially aged at 190°C in a nitrogen atmosphere exhibited a similar loss in fiber tensile strength, but without developing new C=O bands. This suggests that the decrease in cotton fiber tensile strength may occur via several mechanisms, or may be only coincidentally associated with the developement of C=O absorption bands. Nevertheless, photoacoustic spectroscopy may be used as a rapid, sensitive, and nondestructive method to predict the extent of oxidative deg radation in naturally aged samples of cotton textiles.
Moisture Induced Changes in Fabric Structure as Evidenced by Air Permeability Measurements
Authors: Wehner John A. , Miller Bernard , Rebenfeld Ludwig
Published: March 2008

Air permeability measurements over the range of 0 to 95% relative humidity indicate that changes in fiber dimensions caused by moisture absorption lead to changes in fabric structural parameters such as thickness and porosity. This phenomenon, which was most noticeable in the more hygroscopic fabrics, was observed in both woven and nonwoven fabrics. Important variables include the fabric structure and intrafabric constraint factors, such as number of bonding points, yarn twist, and yarn cross-over points.
Micro Software Development Aids Elucidating Tensile Behavior of the Lockstitch Seam'
Authors: Laing R.M. , Pearshouse C.
Published: March 2008

Although interest in the tensile behavior of the lockstitch seam dates back fifty years, analysis so far has been restricted to load and elongation at the first thread break. Information on events up to the first break, and on work, would earlier have had to be extracted manually, a time-consuming and error-prone process. With increased availability of microprocessors, continuous rapid retrieval of data can occur during the testing sequence and can be stored for subsequent analysis. The development of a computer program and its application in isolating critical factors in seam tensile behavior are outlined. This approach has wide applicability in clothing and textile research organizations and in clothing quality control laboratories.
Highly Active Mixed Catalyst System for Producing Durable Press Cotton Textiles
Authors: Pandey S.N. , Raje C.R.
Published: March 2008

In this study cotton fabric samples were crosslinked with 10% N-methylol compound 4-5, dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea in the presence of a mixed catalyst system consisting of varying proportions of aluminium sulfate, glycolic acid, and tartaric acid. Resin finishing was by the pad-dry-cure method and curing was done at 160°C for 3 minutes in most cases and in few cases at 180°C for different periods. Treated and control samples were evaluated for various properties. Wrinkle recovery and durable press ratings of the crosslinked fabrics increased and breaking strength decreased as the concentration of glycolic acid in the mixture increased up to 2.0%. Further increases in the concentration of glycolic acid in the mixture did not have pronounced effect on fabric properties. The fabric samples treated in the presence of the mixed catalyst system of glycolic acid and aluminium sulfate exhibited better resilience than those treated in the presence of either citric or tartaric acid and aluminium sulfate. Fabric samples cured at 160°C exhibited better textile properties than the samples cured at 180°C. Fabric samples crosslinked in the presence of the mixed catalyst system showed higher WRA and DP ratings and better tensile properties compared to the samples treated by the conventional process.
Yarn Tension as a Function of Extension: A New Approach
Authors: Nachane R.P. , Krishna Iyer K.R.
Published: March 2008

Formulas have been derived for the extension and initial specific modulus of two- filament twisted yarn in terms of the properties of the component filaments. Experi mental data on a few yarn assemblies agree better with these formulas compared to earlier ones reported in the literature.
Appraisal of Woven Fabric Quality
Authors: Ukponmwan Joshua O.
Published: March 2008

The quality of a woven fabric is judged initially by its appearance and handle and thereafter by how it wears and performs in service. While much has been published on wear as such, little has been published on the general appraisal of quality and the comparative manner by which the physical properties change as a result of wear. Following a broad review of wear, particularly abrasion resistance, three models are proposed as constituting ways by which woven fabric quality could be changed. These include increasing the sett of the fabric, increasing the linear density of the yarns, and varying both while maintaining a constant cover factor. Practical examples are given and the physical properties of these fabrics are examined. Some fit the pattern suggested by one or other of the models where there are only two or three fabrics with constant features apart from one major change in structure ( i.e., sett or yarn count). Reasons are given for difficulties with appraisal where there are a number of fabrics and where differences between some are small.
Analyzing the Transient Thermophysical Properties of Heat-Resistant Fabrics in TPP Exposures
Authors: Barker Roger L. , Young Moo Lee
Published: March 2008

The effect of high intensity heat on the transient thermophysical properties has been investigated for eight protective fabrics made with polybenzimidazole (PBI), Kevlar®, Nomex®, and blends of PBI with Kevlar® or rayon fibers. Exposure conditions used for this study were 2.0 cal/cm2 .s, 50/50 radiant/convective, and a 2.0 cal/cm2 .s, 100% radiant heat. An interrupted exposure approach was used to obtain a series of test fabrics exposed for incrementally increasing durations. These samples were ana lyzed offline to determine the effect of timed exposures on properties affecting heat transfer. An analysis of momentary fluctuation reveals that two factors critically de termine the response of heat stable materials in TPP tests: one is the moisture in the fabric and its effect on fabric heating and transmission, and the other is the retention of effective thermal thickness.
Recovery and Analysis by HPLC of Benzoyl Peroxide Residues in Nylon Carpet Fibers
Authors: Caldwell J. , Perenich T.
Published: March 2008

The purposes of this research were to investigate the fate of benzoyl peroxide (BP) and benzoic acid (BA) on exposed nylon carpet samples and to develop extraction and chromatographic techniques to identify BP and BA on nylon 6 carpet fibers. For this research, ANSO-IV nylon 6 staple carpet yams from Allied Fibers and Plastics were used. The carpet yarns were constructed into single bar, circular filling knit test sleeves which were dyed at 0.5% owf with CI acid blue 25. A commercial acne med ication creme containing 10% benzoyl peroxide was used on the fabric swatches. Two levels of benzoyl peroxide application were used (high and low levels). Both groups of samples were exposed at two levels of humidity and at constant temperature. Two procedures were used to extract BP and BA from the affected carpet tufts: a sonication method and a digestion method. The samples were analyzed by HPLC techniques developed using a gradient from 80% (v/v) A to 100% B in 15 minutes where A is an aqueous solution with pH 3 and B is acetonitrile. The results indicate two advantages of the HPLC method used in this study: a large separation of the BA peak from the void volume in terms of retention time, and the gradient elution allowing observation of both BA and BP peaks in a single chromatographic analysis of reasonable duration. For the extraction procedures, differences were noted in the results obtained with each of the methods.
Automated Digital Analysis of Fiber Interferograms
Authors: Roche E.J. , Rubin B. , Van Kavelaar R.F.
Published: March 2008

An automatic method for the analysis of fiber interferograms is described. The system consists of an Aus Jena interference microscope fitted with a solid state video camera, an image array processor, and a dedicated DEC microcomputer. A key factor in the speed and accuracy of the analysis is an automatic fringe tracing procedure that eliminates operator bias. The system outputs both thickness profiles and chord-averaged refractive index profiles across the fiber sample. Examples of application to high speed spun nylon and PET and Kevlar® fibers are given.
Physical Ageing and Annealing in Fibers and Textile Materials
Authors: Tao Xiaoming , Postle R.
Published: March 2008

The static correspondence principle for viscoelastic composites is used to study the ageing and viscoelastic properties of the wool keratin composite and wool textile as semblies. The equilibration process of ageing before or during stress relaxation or creep tests changes the mechanical properties of the materials. In a short-term test, the ageing that occurs during the test is negligible. Increasing the ageing time of the material before mechanical testing causes a horizontal shift of the stress relaxation or creep curves in the logarithmic time scale. The effect of physical ageing on the me chanical properties of the material can therefore be represented by a single time shift factor. In a long-term test, the ageing processes that occur during the test have a pronounced influence on the mechanical properties. Therefore, the effect of ageing both before and during testing needs to be taken into account. An effective time can be used to describe the change of mechanical properties due to the ageing process. The conclusion is independent of the geometrical configuration and the stress relaxation moduli of constitutent phases. The relationship between the various ageing processes in static and dynamic tests is also discussed.
Infrared Spectra of Alkali Treated Degummed Ramie
Authors: Sao K.P. , Mathew M.D. , Ray P.K.
Published: March 2008

Infrared spectra of degummed ramie fibers (2-3% gum content) in untreated and alkali treated conditions at room temperature were observed over the frequency range 4000-300 cm -1 using the KBr disk technique. The changes in the spectra are discussed generally. The sharp change in the spectrum due to transition from cellulose I to cellulose II was observed in the concentration range 12-15% (w/w) of alkali. The transition to cellulose II was accompanied by a crimp in the fiber.
Influence of Growth Period on Neps in Cotton
Authors: Mangialardi G.J. , Lalor W.F. , Bassett D.M. , Miravalle R.J.
Published: March 2008

The interactions between picking dates, locations, and varieties were studied to evaluate the effect of growth period on neps in ginned lint, yarn, and fabric. Five harvest intervals were selected, and the cotton yield increments between intervals were used to provide five levels of maturity. Neps in raw cotton were measured by the USDA-AMS web nep test and microscopic examination of card web, imperfections in the yarn ascertained by the Uster instrument, and neps in woven fabric counted by dyeing procedures. Results showed that growth period has a significant impact on the number of neps and other imperfections found in lint and manufactured yarns and fabrics. As a general rule, cotton grown early in the season will produce yarns and fabrics with a lower number of imperfections than cotton grown late in the season from the same field.
Perception and Control of Fabric Streaks
Authors: Makansi M.
Published: March 2008

A highly simplified theoretical mathematical model was developed from the laws of physics and psychology to predict streak and barré intensity in fabrics from yarn properties varying individually or collectively. The model predicts that bulk and luster streaks are most visible in white fabrics, dye streaks are most visible in dark shades at a reflectance of R = 0.16, simultaneous increases or decreases in yarn dye and buUc properties tend to cancel each other and cause streaks from large variations to be much less severe, and the intensity of a streak increases in proportion to the square root of its width and becomes nearly constant above ~3.0 mm.
Cleaning of Fabric Filters
Authors: Lamb G.E.R.
Published: March 2008

The effectiveness of filter bag cleaning can become a critical factor during filtration at high velocities, since as velocity increases, dust removal becomes more difficult. Indeed, the efficiency of cleaning places practical limits on the gas flow rate. Mea surements of pressure drop and penetration for several filter bags at higher-than-normal face velocities indicate that with cleaning methods involving mechnical impact (e.g., pulse-jet or reverse air with shaking), there is a trade-off between excessive pressure drop at low impact energies and excessive penetration at high energies. It would seem, then, that improvements should come from better directed application of cleaning energy to stressing the bond between fabric and dust cake. Two novel substitutes for shaking during reverse air cleaning were tried: the application of an electric field to the filter, and shearing the bag fabric by twisting the bag support. The first was not effective, but even at a modest level of strain, bag shearing was equivalent to shaking.
Effect of Fiber/Yarn Variables on Mechanical Properties of Spliced Yarn
Authors: Kaushik R.C.D. , Sharma I.C. , Hari P.K.
Published: March 2008

Pneumatic splicing was examined for various yarns spun from different fibers on different spinning systems. The retention properties of the spliced yarns compared to normal yarn are discussed; the results indicate that wet splicing gives better property retention than dry splicing. Retention of yarn properties in decreasing order was for yarns spun from polyester, polyester-rich blends, viscose, cotton, and wool, respectively. Coarse yarn, particularly that spun on a ring spinning system, contributes the most to better spliced yarn properties.
Effect of Dyeing on Sorption of Water Vapor by Wool
Authors: Wlochowicz Andrzej , Wojciechowska-Bujok Elzbieta
Published: March 2008

Sorption isotherms of water vapor were determined for wool fabrics dyed with acid dyes of different chemical constitution but in two groups of comparable molecular weight. The effect of the degree of preliminary evacuation of the fabrics on the course of water sorption was estimated. The molecular weight of the dye changes the sorptive properties of fabrics towards water.
Structural Parameters of Polyester Fibers from an Egyptian Manufacturer
Authors: Hamza A.A. , El-Dessouki T.
Published: March 2008

Three different techniques have been used in this work to examine the morphological and structural properties of polyester fibers from an Egyptian manufacturer. The scan ning electron microscope was used to examine the surface topography and the shape and area of the transverse sectional view of these fibers. This information was used with that taken from double-beam microinterferograms to calculate the refractive indices and birefringence of the fibers. The x-ray diffraction technique was used to investigate some structural parameters of polyester fibers.
Changes in Fine Structure and Dyeing Behavior of Nylon 6, Nylon 66, and PET Fibers Treated with Superheated Steam
Authors: Han Liyuan , Wakida Tomiji , Takagishi Toru
Published: March 2008

Nylon 6, nylon 66, and poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) fibers were subjected to superheated steaming. The effects of a small amount of water vapor in superheated steam on the fine structure and dyeing behavior of the fibers were examined at varying steaming temperatures by measuring shrinkage, crystallinity, crystallite size, x-ray dif fraction pattern, and saturation dye-uptake value. The results obtained were compared with those of dry heat treatment. Superheated steaming of the fibers increased their shrinkage, crystallinity, and crystallite size and decreased their dyeability compared to dry heat treatment. With superheated steaming, the shrinkage, crystallinity, and crystallite size showed a minimum at about 160°C for nylon 6 and at approximately 140°C for nylon 66 as the steaming temperature increased, whereas the minimum could not be detected for PET. These behaviors observed in superheated steaming were interpreted in terms of the two effects of heat and water vapor components.
A Study of Wool Carbonizing
Authors: Wu Zhao  , Pailthorpe M.T.
Published: March 2008

During the time delay in rapid carbonizing, the distribution of sulfuric acid between surface acid and total acid inside the wool changes. At zero time delay there is 2.3% owf surface acid and 2.1% owf total acid inside the wool, while after 15 minutes delay the surface acid has dropped to 0.7% owf and the total acid inside the fiber has increased to 3.7% owf. Within the wool, the bound acid increases from 1.2% owf to 3.0% owf, leaving only 0.7% owf free acid inside the wool. Thus the amount of concentrated acid formed during drying and baking is minimized and less chemical attack occurs to wool in rapid carbonizing. The reduced chemical attack is indicated by a lower amino group content and a significantly higher disulphide bond content for rapidly carbonized wool compared with conventionally carbonized wool. These results show that there is both a reduced main chain and disulphide bond breakdown in rapidly carbonized wool. In the time range examined in this work, 10 minutes seems to be the optimum delay time. For delay times greater than 10 minutes, the delay is neither industrially practicable nor is the quality of the carbonized wool optimized.
Detection of Desmosterol in the Internal Lipids of Wool Fibers
Authors: Gale Douglas J. , Logan Raymond I. , Rivett Donald E.
Published: March 2008

The sterol fraction of the internal lipids of wool has been separated by HPLC into two major components, cholesterol and its precursor, desmosterol (cholesta-5,24-dien- 3β-ol). The total of extractable sterols varied significantly between the six samples examined, representing wool from different breeds of sheep and from different climatic zones. However, the ratio of desmosterol to cholesterol remained relatively constant.
Effects of Heat on Structures of Cotton, Polyester, and Wool Fibers in a Triblended Fabric With and Without Flame Retardant
Authors: Goynes Wilton R. , Trask Brenda J.
Published: March 2008

Fabrics marketed as flame resistant are often blends of more than one fiber. The effect of flame-resistant finishes and of heat on different fibers is not the same. A previous study compared differences in morphology of cotton and polyester fibers, and of cotton and wool fibers in two blended fabrics before and after heating. This report shows, using scanning electron microscopy (SEM), the progressive changes that occur during stages of heat stress in fibers in a triblended fabric. Samples of a cotton, polyester, and wool (60/25/15) triblend, unfinished and finished with bis[tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)phosphonium] sulfate (THPS), urea, and trimethylolmel amine, were studied before and after burning. The SEM examination compares re sponses of each fiber to heat and shows that of the treated fabrics, polyester responds first by melting, wool bubbles and flows, and the external structure of cotton is relatively unchanged. Energy dispersive x-ray analyses show the location of the flame retardant agent in cotton and wool fibers. Thermal analysis data are correlated with these struc tural changes.
Mechanism of Loop Formation at Extreme Cam Settings on a Sinker Top Machine
Authors: Banerjee P.K. , Alaiban T.S.
Published: March 2008

The experimental data generated in Part I of this investigation were analyzed to model the mechanism of the knitting process. As a result, it is possible to effectively predict the highest value of yam linear density knittable on a machine of given gauge and to calculate the value of the maximum possible tightness factor resulting from a given combination of machine gauge and yarn linear density.
Factors Affecting the Air Resistance of Nonwoven Needle-Punched Fabrics
Authors: Atwal Mahabir S.
Published: March 2008

The air resistance of a fabric is an important factor in determining its various end uses. In this paper the measured air resistance of 140 needle-punched fabrics made from 16 different fibers is investigated. An empirical relationship is fitted to the mea sured air resistance data using stepwise multiple regression analysis. The regression analysis relates the air resistance to the fabric parameters of weight per unit area, thickness, porosity, and fiber fineness. This empirical relationship is shown to predict the air resistance accurately.
Fabric-Caused Changes in Human Skin: In Vivo Stratum Corneum Water Content and Water Evaporation
Authors: Hatch Kathryn L. , Wilson Donald R. , Maibach Howard I.
Published: March 2008

In vivo water content in the surface layers of human stratum corneum and water evaporation from its surface due to placement of fabric on skin for different time periods were studied. A focused microwave probe was used to assess stratum corneum water content, an Evaporimeter for water evaporation. Triacetate and polyester fabrics were placed on subjects' forearms with and without a covering of occlusive plastic film. Placement of either triacetate or polyester on the forearm without a covering of film did not cause changes in water content or evaporation measured immediately after removal. With a covering of plastic film, water content and evaporation increased as the fabric/film remained on the forearm for longer periods of time. Stratum corneum water content was generally greater at polyester/film covered forearm sites than at triacetate/film covered sites, but there was not a significant statistical difference due to fabric type. Forearm water evaporation after fabric removal was also greater for polyester/film sites than triacetate/film sites; the difference was statistically significant. Occluded fabric placed on the skin surface therefore influences stratum corneum water content and water evaporation from its surface.
Reactions of Wool with Sulfamic Acid
Authors: Cameron B.A. , Pailthorpe M.T.
Published: March 2008

The reactions of wool with sulfamic acid have been investigated and the results show that under the conditions used, the reactions are similar to those of sulfuric acid and wool. The majority of reaction takes place on alcoholic amino acids, but some reaction does take place on primary amino groups. No reaction takes place on the cystine linkage. The reaction is temperature and time dependent, with a temperature of 150-160°C and a time of 4-5 minutes giving maximum fixation of sulfamic acid. Urea is an essential component of the treatment liquor if maximum fixation of sulfamic acid is to be achieved. Measurements of the yellowness and strength have indicated that sulfamic acid causes a small increase in yellowness but does not change the fabric strength significantly.
Improving the Wrinkle Recovery of Wool/Cotton Blends by Simultaneous Treatment with Synthappret BAP and DMDHEU
Authors: Rippon J.A.
Published: March 2008

A simple pad-dry-cure procedure is described that significantly improves the dry (conditioned) wrinkle recovery of fabrics made from a range of intimate blends of wool and cotton. The method involves simultaneous application of a mixture of a cellulose crosslinking agent dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea (DMDHEU) and the carbamoyl sulphonate-terminated poly (ether) urethane Synthappret BAP from pad liquors containing a nonionic surfactant. The latter is necessary to prevent precipitation of the magnesium salt formed from Synthappret BAP by the magnesium chloride catalyst used to crosslink cellulose with DMDHEU. The two reagents act, by different mechanisms, by improving the dry wrinkle recovery of only the cellulosic component of the fabric. DMDHEU acts by increasing the resilience of the cotton fibers and Synthappret BAP by reducing the frictional component of wrinkling that is due largely to the cotton in the blend. When applied simultaneously, the effects of the two reagents are additive. This permits higher levels of wrinkle recovery than are possible by treat ment with either compound alone, with only small accompanying adverse effects on abrasion resistance. A simultaneous treatment with low levels of the reagents also controls shrinkage in laundering and improves the wet wrinkle recovery properties of the wool/cotton fabrics.
Influence of Filling Yarn Characteristics on the Properties of Corduroy Fabrics Woven on an Air-Jet Loom
Authors: Mohamed Mansour H. , Barghash Vienna A. , Barker Roger L.
Published: March 2008

The performance of 100% cotton open-end and ring spun yarns on an air-jet loom and their behavior in corduroy fabric are investigated. The amount of twist loss and the twist distribution across the fabric width are determined. The effects of changing yarn count and original twist level on the retained twist and on fabric properties are discussed.
Effects of Mercerization, Submercerization, and Liquid Ammonia on Fiber Morphology of Neps in Cotton Fabric
Authors: Cheek Lenore , Wilcock Anne , Hsu Li-Hua
Published: March 2008

Cotton print cloth containing both immature fiber neps and process neps composed of torn and ruptured mature fibers was treated with mercerizing and submercerizing strength sodium hydroxide and with liquid ammonia. Scanning electron microscopic examination of mercerized samples showed separation of the nep mass and swelling of individual fibers in both types of neps. Treatment with submercerization strength sodium hydroxide resulted in swelling of surface fibers of the nep but retention of much of the overall fiber compactness. Liquid ammonia appeared to have little effect on the swelling of the individual immature fibers, but did achieve a separation of the compact nep mass. After dyeing with each of ten direct dyes, the mercerized samples showed an average increase in visible coverage of neps of 95%, while the dyed sub- mercerized samples showed an average increase in nep coverage of 86%. After liquid ammonia treatment, significant improvement in nep coverage occurred with five of the ten dyes examined.
Measurement of Thermal Conductivity of Nonwovens Using a Dynamic Method
Authors: Martin J. Ronald , Lamb George E.R.
Published: March 2008

A nonsteady-state cooling method has been used to measure the thermal diffusivity (α) of nonwovens. The method is relatively simple and requires a minimum of spe cialized equipment. The calculations required to obtain α from cooling curves are somewhat involved but can be easily performed on a small computer. The apparatus allows α to be measured at various degrees of sample compression. Thermal conduc tivity can be obtained from α if heat capacity and bulk density are known. The tech nique was used to study the effect of fiber structural parameters on the conductivity of nonwovens. The results indicate that in agreement with established theory, con ductivity decreases if the nonwoven is compressed or is made with finer fabrics or has a reflective coating on the fiber surface. This occurs because of a reduction in the radiative component of heat transfer. Fiber shape has no effect on thermal conductivity. Nonwovens made with experimental hollow fibers have lower thermal conductivity than nonwovens containing solid fibers of the same size; no explanation is currently available for this phenomenon.
Evaluation of Classimat Faults for Their Performance in Weaving
Authors: Aggarwal S.K. , Hari P.K. , Subramanian T.A.
Published: March 2008

The weaving performance of a yam is mostly decided by its grey yam properties and the treatment it receives in the processes subsequent to spinning. This paper presents a study of the effect of the magnitude of yam faults (length and cross section) and of sizing on their performance in weaving. The results showed that particularly C3, C4, and all D Classimat faults, even after sizing, have lower strength, elongation, and abrasion resistance. The presence of these faults introduces a very high frequency of low strength, elongation, and abrasion threads into the yam, which in turn are prominent sources of warp breaks. When subjected to tensile load, most yams broke at or in the vicinity of a fault. The frequency of such yarn breakages increased with fault length and cross section.
Carpet Texture Measurement Using Image Analysis
Authors: Wood Errol J. , Hodgson Robert M.
Published: March 2008

Image analysis techniques have been applied to the objective measurement of carpet texture. By converting an image into a form that highlights the regions of largest intensity variation, small differences in texture between carpets, due to either wear treatment or construction, can be reliably detected. This has been demonstrated using sets of samples that have received controlled wear treatments in the Hexapod tumbler tester. The optimum conditions for texture measurement are discussed, in particular the requirements for lighting and camera focusing. The influences of sample orientation and substrate color are also stressed. While the emphasis in this study is on plain shade carpets, possible methods of measuring the pile texture of colored pattern carpets are also discussed. Image analysis is considered to have a promising future as a scientific tool in studying carpet performance, as an objective means of carpet grading, and for product optimization and quality control in carpet manufacture.
Error Analysis of Measurements Made with the KES-F System
Authors: Ly N.G.
Published: March 2008

An analysis of the errors observed in measuring fabrics with the KES-F system is described. The difference between repeated measurements on the same sample is not significant for all practical purposes if the fabric is allowed to recover between tests. The variation of measured properties is more significant across the fabric width,than along a fabric length of similar distance. One compressional parameter, one shear parameter, and two tensile parameters show significant variation due to operator effects.
Free Radicals in Cellulose Fibers Treated with Low Temperature Plasma
Authors: Wakida Tomiji , Takeda Keiji , Tanaka Itsuo , Takagishi Toru
Published: March 2008

Cellulose fibers such as cotton, linen, viscose rayon, and polynosic fibers were treated with low temperature plasmas of O2, N2, H2, Ar, CO, CH4, and CF4. For comparison wool, silk, nylon 6, and poly ( ethylene terephthalate ) (PET) were also subjected to the plasma treatments. The relative free-radical intensity of the plasma-treated fibers was measured by means of ESR spectroscopy. The free radicals in the fibers treated in the plasmas increased in the following order: cotton > wool > silk > nylon 6 ≃ PET. cotton > linen > mercerized cotton > polynosic fibers ≃ viscose rayon, and CF4 > CO > H2 > Ar > CH4 > N2 ≃ O2. The natural fibers, in particular cotton and linen, showed larger free-radical intensity than the regenerated cellulose and the synthetic fibers. The free-radical intensity of the plasma-treated fibers depended considerably on the plasma characteristics and the fine structure of the fibers as well as their chemical constitution.
Partitioning and Particle Size of Dye Dispersions
Authors: Kissa Erik
Published: March 2008

Aqueous dye dispersions stabilized with sodium lignosulfonate were extracted with water immiscible solvents in which the dye but not the dispersant is soluble. The amount of dye extracted depends on extraction conditions and the stability of the dispersion. When the extraction conditions and the composition of the dispersion are constant, the nonequilibrium partition ratio of the dye between the aqueous phase and the solvent phase is correlated with the particle size of the dispersion. The partition ratio (water/solvent) increases exponentially with the decreasing particle size and correlates with particle size values obtained by a centrifugation method. The partition method was used to estimate the particle size of sand milled dye dispersions. Within the range of variables studied, the fineness of the dye dispersion increased with the increasing milling time, fineness of sand, sand/dye weight ratio, and dispersant con centration. The efficiency of the milling process decreased with the increasing dilution of the dye slurry with water.
Relationships Between Short Fiber Content and HVI Fiber Length Uniformity
Authors: Ramey Harmon H. , Beaton Paul G.
Published: March 2008

Fibrogram theory indicates that short fiber content (SF) should be negatively related to the uniformity index (UI), defined as the ratio of the mean length to the upper half mean length expressed as a percentage. The correlation of SF and UI in a series of staple length standards was r = -0.95, which approaches unity. SF and UI were obtained on crop quality survey samples from 1984 and 1985 U.S. cotton crops. The correlation of SF and UI in these samples was r = -0.6 to -0.7. Correlations of SF or UI to fiber processing and yam quality measures were opposite in sign and of equal magnitude. Equations developed using stepwise regression techniques to predict man ufacturing waste, spinning potential, and yam strength indicate that UI is useful in predicting variation in these measures. These results suggest that UI, which is available on all cotton classed by high volume instrument systems, can be used instead of SF as an indicator of cotton quality.
Shear Behavior of Woven Fabrics
Authors: Kothari V.K. , Tandon S.K.
Published: March 2008

In an experimental study on the shear behavior of both gray and finished wool and wool blend woven fabrics, we have investigated the effects of finishing and wetting and changes in four shear parameters—initial shear modulus Go, frictional shear stress σ o, shear rigidity G, and residual shear strain tan θ o. We have established correlation coefficients between various shear parameters and have reported the effects of changes in relative humidity on the shear behavior of a finished wool fabric.
Theory and Practice of Localized Fabric Deformations
Authors: Motamedi F. , Bailey A.I. , Briscoe B.J. , Tabor D.
Published: March 2008

This paper considers in detail the influence of fabric side tension in the single yarn pull-out test and the associated microdisplacements when a single yarn is progressively pulled from a weave. The side tension force per yarn has been varied from near zero to values approximately one-half of the value required to completely pull the transverse yarn from the fabric. The variation of this side tension influences several characteristic values and derived parameters that may be obtained from the force-displacement profile and monitored microdisplacements. As the side tension is increased, the fabric becomes slightly stiffer, and it is increasingly more difficult to initiate and maintain the yarn pull-out. These trends have been interpreted using two simple models that describe the force transmission in the fabric during pull-out and the force at the cross over junctions at the initiation of the pull-out and during the continuous pulling of the yarn from the fabric. The models predict the behavior of the system with reasonable accuracy.
A General Purpose Textile Plant Energy Consumption Model
Authors: Grady P.L. , Mock G.N. , Pai G.A. , Throneburg K.W.
Published: March 2008

Computer models for various textile processes have been developed for use on personal computers. These models use regression techniques and enthalpy balances to predict energy consumption from user supplied process parameters. The models have been verified through extensive use in plant energy studies and have successfully identified energy saving measures and produced accurate energy cost per unit pro duction information and departmental energy projections. A summary of the modeling and verification techniques is presented here.
Cotton Covered Nylon-Core Yarns and Greige Fabrics
Authors: Sawhney A.P.S. , Ruppenicker G.F. , Robert K.Q.
Published: March 2008

Physical and mechanical properties of some specific cotton-rich, high tenacity, nylon- core yams and greige fabrics developed for military protective clothing are described. The core yams were produced on a modified ring spinning frame, and the fabrics were woven on a conventional dobby loom. The core yams and the fabrics developed from them contained approximately 70% cotton as cover and 30% high tenacity nylon filament as core. The core yams were about 25% stronger than comparable 70/30 cotton/nylon staple intimate blend or all-cotton yams, and the developmental greige fabrics were over 30% stronger. The developmental fabrics, after special finishing, may provide adequate flame retardancy as well as high strength retention. Properties of the finished fabrics will be reported separately.
Upholstery Fabric Performance: Actual Wear Versus Laboratory Abrasion
Authors: Warfield Carol L. , Slaten B. Lewis
Published: March 2008

We have developed a laboratory method to simulate the effects of actual consumer wear on upholstery fabrics. We used three soiling conditions, i.e., no soil, Bandy Black research clay, and Bandy Black plus synthetic sebum, on four cotton print upholstery fabrics, and a Taber rotary platform double head abraser to abrade the fabrics after soil application. Least significant differences and Pearson's product moment corre lations indicated that this laboratory test method produced breaking strength and elonga tion values similar to those found in the fabrics exposed to a two-year consumer wear study.
Derivative Infrared Spectra of Ramie
Authors: Pandey S.N.
Published: March 2008

A derivative technique has been applied to infrared absorption spectrophotometry of ramie in the regions 4000-2500 and 2000-700 cm-1. The second derivative spectra at different scan speeds and differentiator time constants in these regions have been compared with the absorption (zeroth derivative) spectra. The derivative spectra mea sure the slope or curvature of the absorption contours, facilitate to resolve, and detect absorptions that are unresolvable due either to band overlap or low intensity. This method may thus provide more detailed information on the fine structure of cellulose.
Air-Jet Texturing of Cotton-Filament Composite Yarns for Better Apparel Comfort
Authors: Kothari V.K. , Sengupta A.K. , Srinivasan J. , Goswami B.C.
Published: March 2008

We have studied air-jet texturing of cotton filament composite yams, comparing physical and mechanical properties of these yams after texturing with parent yam properties. We have also compared woven and knitted fabrics produced from both parent and air textured yams for thermal and mechanical properties in both gray and finished forms. Fabrics made using air-jet textured yams show considerably higher thermal resistance and reduced air permeability. Tensile and bursting strengths decrease with the use of air textured yams, but abrasion resistance improves. The results indicate that air-jet textured cotton spun yams have good potential for use where thermal comfort and softness of handle are major requirements.
Influence of Interfilament Friction on Structure and Properties of Air Textured Yarns
Authors: Kothari V.K. , Sengupta A.K. , Rengasamy R.S. , Goswami B.C.
Published: March 2008

The structure and properties of air textured yarns are influenced by the dynamic friction of the parent filament yam. We have demonstrated this by texturing under various conditions two similar multifilament yarns with different spin finishes. We have analyzed the effects of water and mechanical stretch on the structure and properties of the air textured yams. We present here a new classification of surface loops of air textured yarns and analyze the effect of interfilament friction and water on different types of loops.
Perception of the Heat of Sorption of Wool
Authors: Stuart I.M. , Schneider A.M. , Turner T.R.
Published: March 2008

We have conducted wearer trials demonstrating that human subjects can perceive the heat of sorption of water vapor by wool garments in typical winter conditions. We found that this heat of sorption causes wearers to rate wool garments as warmer under certain conditions than materials with little or no heat of sorption, such as acrylic. If the garments are thoroughly dried before use, the full benefit of this heating effect is realized.