bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Influence of Organofluorine-Treated Textiles on Biowaste Composting
Authors: Hoppenheidt Klaus , Kottmair Andreas , Mücke Wolfgang , Puk Robert , Rössler Erich
Published: March 2008

A mixture of cotton textiles and biowaste is used as compost raw material. The dynamics of composting and the phytocompatibility of biological waste composts are studied to clarify the influence of organofluorine-treated textiles. The dynamics of com posting different biowaste/textile mixtures and the phytocompatibility of the resulting composts are not adversely affected by adding the textiles under examination, even when the latter are treated with the organofluorine compounds Olephobol C or Oleophobol S.
Cotton Cleanability
Authors: Robert Kearny Q. , Price John B. , Xiao Liang Cui
Published: March 2008

Fiber breakage during harvesting, ginning, and cleaning associated with cotton bale production is modeled by applying controlled degrees of random breakage damage to an experimental extra long staple cotton substrate with a fiber length distribution approxi mating that found on shorter staple seed. Experimental fiber length data are taken from combed sliver subjected to cutting at various gauge lengths. As different levels of breakage are inflicted, the corresponding length distributions exhibit distinct trends. A theoretical fiber breakage model based on cutting is used to parameterize changes in the shape of the length distribution and to interpret the experimental results. Comparisons of experimental data with predictions from the theory suggest that certain systematic features of fiber length might be used to index the general degree of breakage that has occurred in a specific cotton sample with an unknown processing history.
Bending Behavior of Woven Fabrics with Vertical Seams
Authors: Hu Jinlian , Siuping Chung
Published: March 2008

This paper presents a study of the bending properties of fabric strips with vertical plain seam. The "second moment of area" of a seamed cross section determines the bending behavior of such a strip. Fabric thickness, seam thickness, distance of the neutral axis from the surface of the cross section, and seam allowance width are involved. Various woven fabrics with different seam allowances are investigated. Bending length and bending rigidity obtained from the experimental results are highly related to the second moment of area of the seamed fabric cross section.
Effect of Protease Activity on a Non-aqueous Detergent System
Authors: Sawada K. , Ueda M.
Published: March 2008

The effect of the protease "subtilisin" on detergency in a non-aqueous detergent system, i.e., surfactant (Aerosol-OT)/isooctane/water reverse micellar system, is investigated. Gelatin is used as a model of proteinic soil and is chemically fixed on fabrics with the help of citric acid as a crosslinking agent. Highly sensitive optical determination of gelatin in the reverse micellar system is accomplished by measuring the chemisorption of dyestuff in the gelatin. Subtilisin solubilized in the interior of the reverse micelle shows excellent activity even in organic media, and there is a sufficient effect on detergency. In the practical process of removing proteinic soils from fabrics in a non-aqueous system, however, solubilization of water-soluble soils hydrolyzed by enzymatic catalysis in the interior of the reverse micelle also affects detergency.
A Novel Technique for Evaluating the Appearance and Quality of a Cotton Fabric
Authors: Sawhney A.P.S.
Published: March 2008

The unprinted side of an electronically printed fabric clearly shows almost all the common defects of its constituent fibers, yams, and even its construction, thereby giving a true picture of the fabric's physical appearance. The defects of the constituents may include immature fiber neps, fiber contamination, yam nonuniformity and defects, expo sure of any noncellulosic synthetic fiber core (such as glass) on the surface of a multicomponent core-wrap-yam fabric, and construction faults such as thick and thin places, skewness, and broken ends, among others. Based on this discovery, a novel, computerized method of quickly evaluating the appearance and thus the general quality of a cotton or predominantly cotton fabric is suggested. Basically, the method involves: an electronic "solid printing" (i.e., continuous printing or so-called "electronic dyeing") of one face or side of a greige or bleached fabric specimen with a precontrolled ink jet of any desired color or shade on a computer printer and an evaluation of the unprinted face of the fabric. The evaluation may be done either by a subjective visual examination of the unprinted side of the fabric or by an objective, pre-programmed image analysis of a computer generated (scanned or videoed) electronic file/copy of the unprinted face. Although most typical defects and faults of a fabric's constituent fibers and yams, which ultimately determine its appearance and hence its quality, can be easily examined and classified visually, their automatic objective classification is complex and still requires extensive computer programming to establish scientific reliability for different fabrics and color resolutions. However, the new method may be used as an efficient on-line, off-line, or research tool for quickly and subjectively assessing and grading the physical appear ance and general quality of a cotton or predominantly cotton fabric.
Wool Color Changes in Superheated Steam
Authors: Schwartze Jörg P. , Mckinnon A. John
Published: March 2008

As a prelude to studying drying characteristics of wool in superheated steam, wool yellowing in that medium at short exposure times at various temperatures is measured with an apparatus that reduces uncertainties in time/temperature exposure conditions. This has led to a useful database of wool yellowing characteristics at various temperatures, times, and moisture conditions, which extends the information formerly available. The data from these experiments are generally consistent with other data in the literature, given the experimental uncertainties inherent in most of the latter. The magnitudes of yellowing changes are not sufficiently great to disbar superheated steam drying of wool, even though drying will be confined to temperatures where drying rates (though still acceptably high) will be below those in air at comparable temperatures.
Bending Hysteresis of Plain Woven Fabrics in Various Directions
Authors: Hu J.L. , Lo W.M. , Lo M.T.
Published: March 2008

Many researchers have studied the bending rigidity of woven fabrics in various directions, but there have been no reports on anisotropy in bending hysteresis. In this work, existing models for predicting the bending rigidity of woven fabrics are applied to bending hysteresis in various directions. A wide range of cotton plain woven fabrics is examined by comparing theoretical data with experimental results. The results show that Cooper's model is the most reliable in predicting polar diagrams of bending hysteresis in cotton plain woven fabrics. The results also indicate that the shape of polar diagrams of bending hysteresis along the weft direction spreads outward with an increase in the ratio V introduced by Cooper.
Monte Carlo Simulation of a New Control Strategy for the Weft Brake on Air-Jet Looms
Authors: Vangheluwe Lieven , Puissant Patrick
Published: March 2008

In air-jet weaving, weft insertion time depends on the characteristics and properties of the weft yam. Because deviations of properties within bobbins exist, a control system is sometimes required to obtain a sufficiently even arrival time of the weft yam. This paper presents a new control strategy to obtain a more constant arrival time over the bobbin. The control strategy is illustrated and tested using a Monte Carlo simulation. For this purpose, a mathematical model for weft insertion on air-jet looms is developed. The new control strategy shows good results.
Enumeration and Identification by Elimination of Weave Families of Given Repeat Size
Authors: Dawson R.M.
Published: March 2008

An algorithm to identify all families of weaves of given repeat size is outlined. It is based on a numbering of all possible black and white colorings of a rectangular block of squares, but only a small proportion of these colorings need be considered individually. For the cases investigated, however, the number of weave families increases almost exponentially with repeat size, and so necessarily does the number of colorings considered individually. If this is always so, any algorithm is only practicable over a range of small repeat sizes. The algorithm, in Pc-program form, is used for (ends per repeat × picks per repeat) values of up to 18. Numbers that specify the repeat of the highest numbered member of each weave family are listed for repeat sizes of 2 to 8 X 2, 3 to 6 × 3, and 4 × 4.
Measuring Yarn/Package Friction During Over-End Unwinding
Authors: Ran Wu  , Jiefeng Yu  , Rahn Christopher D. , Goswami Bhuvenesh C.
Published: March 2008

The magnitude and uniformity of withdrawal tension during over-end unwinding depends on the coefficient of friction between the yarn and package. Current friction measurement techniques do not have the high speed and package surface roughness characteristics of yam-on-package friction. This research develops a new measurement technique for yam-package friction that uses simultaneously captured tension data and images of the yam sliding on the package surface during actual unwinding. An algorithm combines a mathematical model of the sliding motion with experimental data to produce estimates of the yarn/package coefficient of friction. Packages of equivalent denier, textured and fully drawn polyester yams are tested with a measurement uncertainty of less than 10%. The coefficients of friction increase from 0.40 to 0.48 and 0.23 to 0.35 over the speed range of 500 to 1000 m/min for the textured and fully drawn yams, respectively. A simpler measurement method with an Instron tensile tester can be used for comparative coefficient of friction measurements, but it provides quantitative agreement with the in-situ measurements only at low tension.
Dyeing and Mechanical Properties of Cotton Fabrics Treated with Sodium Hydroxide/Liquid Ammonia and Liquid Ammonia/Sodium Hydroxide
Authors: Wakida Tomiji , Kida Kyoko , Lee Muncheul , Bae Soyeung , Yoshioka Hiromu , Yanai Yuichi
Published: March 2008

Desized and scoured cotton fabric is treated in a two-step process with sodium hydroxide/ liquid ammonia and liquid ammonia/sodium hydroxide to investigate the effect of the treat ment sequence. Crystallinity, moisture regain, water absorbency, dyeability, and KES mechan ical properties are measured. Despite a considerable decrease in crystallinity with both treatments, water absorbency decreases with NaOH/NH3 and increases with NH3/NaOH compared with the untreated fabric. Furthermore, the NaOH/NH3 treatment decreases the early dyeing rate with CI Direct Blue 1, whereas the NH 3/NaOH treatment increases the rate remarkably compared to the untreated fabric. Nevertheless, saturation dye uptake with the same dye increases with both treatments compared with the untreated. As a measure of fabric hand, shearing and bending hysteresis curves are obtained with a KES instrument. The shearing modulus and shearing hysteresis width of the NaOH/NH3 treated fabric are much smaller than those of the NH3 treated fabric, while those of the NH3/NaOH treated fabric are smaller compared with the NaOH treated fabric. From these results, it is clear that two-step processes such as NaOH/NH3 and NH3/NaOH are much more effective for softening hand than the NH3 and NaOH treatments independently.
Effect of Recycled Polyolefin Inclusion on the Properties of Polypropylene Filaments
Authors: Davies P.J. , Horrocks A.R.
Published: March 2008

A series of polypropylene filaments containing a number of recycled polyolefins in varying concentrations are extruded in the absence and presence of a thermal stabilizer package. The physical and chemical properties of these filaments are then characterized to identify the effects of adding the recyclate. While the added recyclate affects the overall properties, there is a tolerance level up to which the changes may be accepted, and the magnitude of the overall effect depends on the physical and chemical properties of the recyclate.
On-Line Surface Modification of Polypropylene Fibers by Corona Treatment During Melt-Spinning
Authors: Hautojärvi Joni , Laaksonen Sanna
Published: March 2008

On-line corona treatment of polypropylene (PP) fibers during melt-spinning is studied. After extrusion of pp filaments, collected fiber tow is subjected to corona treatment prior to drawing, crimping, and cutting into staple fibers, and wettability, antistatic, and friction properties of treated fibers are characterized. Corona treatment results in an average decrease of 5-10° in the advancing contact angle and of 10-25° in the receding contact angle for water on fibers. With amounts of spin finish lower than 0.2% by weight of fiber, treated fibers have considerably better antistatic properties than untreated fibers. Treated fibers have an order of magnitude lower electrical resistance and about 50% less static charge build-up during carding than untreated fibers. In addition, there is a sharp change in wetting and friction properties of fibers with corona treatment when the amount of spin finish is between 0.12 and 0.13 wt %. These effects are attributed to improved wetting of the treated fibers by spin finishes, leading to a more uniform spreading of finish agents on the fiber surface.
Engineering Design of Woven Fabrics for Specific Properties
Authors: Chen X. , Leaf G.A.V.
Published: March 2008

This paper deals with the engineering design of woven fabrics for both domestic and industrial applications. A software program, MECHFAB, is developed to optimize fabric structural parameters based on specifications of the eight most commonly used physical and mechanical properties. In order to find the most economical solution, a cost function for woven fabrics is established and used in the program as the objective function.
Objective Evaluation of Fabric Softness
Authors: Yan Chen  , Collier Billie , Hu Patrick , Quebedeaux Debbie
Published: March 2008

The method of fuzzy comprehensive evaluation is used to solve the problem of grading fabric softness. Fabric mechanical properties that are regarded as determining fabric softness are measured with the KES-FB instruments. Statistical methods of ANOVA and factor analysis are suggested to determine the weighting-factor vector A, and the fuzzy conversion matrix U is formed on an assumption of linear membership function. Corre lation of fuzzy evaluation, subjective evaluation, and the Kawabata primary hand evalu ation is estimated statistically. The established fuzzy models focus particularly on for pure cotton and 50/50 cotton/polyester blended fabrics, and the results encourage further investigation for industrial implementation.
Processing and Property Study of Cotton-Surfaced Nonwovens
Authors: Qin Sun Christine , Dong Zhang  , Wadsworth Larry C. , McLean Mac
Published: March 2008

Cotton-surfaced nonwovens have been developed by thermally bonding cotton precur sor webs with unbonded spunbond (SB) PP webs on a spunbond line, with cotton on one or both sides. The novel two- or three-layered laminates have a hand similar to cotton knits or hydroentangled fabrics, and also exhibit excellent strength and elongation properties, making them more suitable for some highly desirable disposable and short-wear-cycle applications such as medical and personal hygiene products. The cotton precursor webs are thermally bonded cotton and PP staple (TCPP) webs (25-27 g/m2). Six different TCPP webs are used with three blend ratios of cotton/pp (60/40, 50/50, 40/60) and two different deniers (1.9 and 2.2 denier) and two lengths (1.0 and 1.5 inches) of PP staple fibers. A comprehensive study is made of the effect of processing conditions on the properties of the laminates as bonded on the SB line, with SB web weights of 17 and 34 g/m2.
Potentiometric Study of Intermolecular Interactions in Cationic-Nonionic Mixed Surfactant Systems
Authors: Simončič Barbara , Papež Valentina
Published: March 2008

The nature and thermodynamics of interactions of the cationic surfactant dodecyltri methylammonium bromide (DTA) with the nonionic surfactant Triton X-100 (TX100) in mixtures are studied using the potentiometric method. We investigate the influence of temperature, the addition of KBr, and the concentrations of DTA and TX100 on the complex formation between free DTA cations and TX100 nonionic micelles in solution. Binding isotherms, distribution coefficients Kx, and stoichiometric equilibrium constants K1 are determined from the experimental data. The standard free energy change (Δ G1°), the standard enthalpy change (Δ H1°) and the standard entropy change (Δ S 1°) are calculated for transferring the free DTA cation from the aqueous bulk phase to the TX100 nonionic micelle phase. Our results support the assumption that hydrophobic interactions are the most important in this binding process.
Effects of Imposing a Temperature Gradient on Moisture Vapor Transfer Through Water Resistant Breathable Fabrics
Authors: Finn J.T. , Sagar A.J.G. , Mukhopadhyay S.K.
Published: March 2008

Very often outerwear apparel is made of water resistant yet breathable fabrics, and normally these fabrics have multilayer structures of various polymeric materials. The working mechanisms of water vapor transmission through these fabrics are not well understood. The rate at which these breathable fabrics are able to transmit water vapor is most often measured under standard textile testing conditions of 20°C and 65% relative humidity, but these tests are often little better than useless in predicting a fabric's performance under "real" conditions. The experiments described in this paper are de signed to test breathable fabrics under more realistic conditions. Water is heated to 33°C in order to simulate a sweating body, and the rate at which the vapor is transmitted through various breathable fabrics is measured. Experiments involve ambient temperatures of 6, 10, 15, and 20°C, with the relative humidity held at a constant 65% throughout.
Spray Enzymatic Retting: A New Method for Processing Flax Fibers
Authors: Akin Danny E. , Dodd Roy B. , Perkins Warren , Henriksson Gunnar , Eriksson Karl-Erik L.
Published: March 2008

The high consumption of flax for linen in the U.S. and the fact that the U.S. does not produce any flax or linen has prompted research into the ultimate goal of re-establishing a flax/linen industry. An improved retting method for flax stems using pectinase-rich mixtures is developed and evaluated on a variety of fiber and seed flax samples. The method, termed spray enzyme retting (SER), is as follows: crimp stems to enhance penetration of enzyme formulations into the stems tissues, add chelators with enzymes in water at pH 5.0 to improve enzyme effectiveness, spray the formulation on crimped stems to soaking, and incubate at high humidity for several hours. Total fiber yield, collected from dried and bench carded SER flax, and fiber strength and micronaire (modified to use 5 g of fiber) are determined and compared for various sample types, forms, and amounts. A test of 19 samples indicates that the liquid : fiber ratio (in ml/g), after subtracting excess run-off of enzyme formulation, is 1.86 ± 0.5. Total fiber yields are about 25 to 30% of starting crimped weight of fiber flax stems and considerably higher for samples previously dew retted prior to SER. Micronaire values are high (about 7-8) for bench carded samples and lower (about 4 to 5) for the finer proportion from samples cleaned through a Shirley analyzer. Depending on the samples, fiber strengths (Stelometer) are equal to or consid erably greater than dew retted "cottonized" flax or typical cotton fibers.
Kinetics of Wool Dyeing with Acid Dyes
Authors: Bruce R.L. , Broadwood N.V. , King D.G.
Published: March 2008

Studies of the thermodynamics and kinetics of dyeing over the past 60-70 years have not resulted in complete acceptance for one mechanism for the dyeing process. Contrary to the two existing explanations of wool-dye isotherm data (the Gilbert-Rideal and Donnan theories), the uptake of the acid dye used in this study conforms to the law of mass action. In addition, although it has generally been accepted that the kinetics of wool dyeing is diffusion controlled, the uptake rate of the acid dye used in this study can be modeled by a second-order rate expression based on the formation of a protein-dye complex as the rate determining step. The mechanism developed from this study involves the dye and other anions present in the dye solution interacting independently with the wool, rather than the dye displacing smaller anions in a strict ion exchange manner.
A Novel Technique for Evaluating the Appearance and Quality of a Cotton Fabric 1
Authors: Sawhney A.P.S.
Published: March 2008

The unprinted side of an electronically printed fabric clearly shows almost all the common defects of its constituent fibers, yarns, and even its construction, thereby giving a true picture of the fabric's physical appearance. The defects of the constituents may include immature fiber neps, fiber contamination, yarn nonuniformity and defects, expo sure of any noncellulosic synthetic fiber core (such as glass) on the surface of a multicomponent core-wrap-yarn fabric, and construction faults such as thick and thin places, skewness, and broken ends, among others. Based on this discovery, a novel, computerized method of quickly evaluating the appearance and thus the general quality of a cotton or predominantly cotton fabric is suggested. Basically, the method involves: an electronic "solid printing" (i.e., continuous printing or so-called "electronic dyeing") of one face or side of a greige or bleached fabric specimen with a precontrolled ink jet of any desired color or shade on a computer printer and an evaluation of the unprinted face of the fabric. The evaluation may be done either by a subjective visual examination of the unprinted side of the fabric or by an objective, pre-programmed image analysis of a computer generated (scanned or videoed) electronic file/copy of the unprinted face. Although most typical defects and faults of a fabric's constituent fibers and yarns, which ultimately determine its appearance and hence its quality, can be easily examined and classified visually, their automatic objective classification is complex and still requires extensive computer programming to establish scientific reliability for different fabrics and color resolutions. However, the new method may be used as an efficient on-line, off-line, or research tool for quickly and subjectively assessing and grading the physical appear ance and general quality of a cotton or predominantly cotton fabric.
Radiant Protective and Transport Properties of Fabrics Used by Wildland Firefighters
Authors: Sun G. , Yoo H.S. , Zhang X.S. , Pan N.
Published: March 2008

The radiant protective performance, thermal resistance, air permeability, and moisture evaporation of a series of fabrics made from aramid, modacrylic, polyimide, and fire resistant cotton fibers are evaluated in the laboratory. The radiant protective performance of single-layer fabrics is affected by the structure, weight, thickness, and materials, consistent with the thermal protective performance of fabrics previously discussed. A fabric's transport properties, which are closely associated with comfort performance, can be reflected by a combination of its air permeability, thermal resistance, and moisture evaporation, which are also governed by the same structural factors. Thus, it is our intention to explore the relationship between fabric structures and both radiant protective and transport properties so that we can provide the necessary information for selecting appropriate fabrics for firefighter's uniforms.
Pyrolytic Gas Generation of Cotton Cellulose With and Without Flame Retardants at Different Stages of Thermal Degradation: Effects of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Halogens
Authors: Nakanishi Shigeko , Masuko Fumi , Hori Katsuaki , Hashimoto Toshimasa
Published: March 2008

This study analyzes pyrolytic gases generated at various temperature ranges to observe changes in gas generation behavior dynamically in the process of thermal degradation. Cotton cellulose, a most flammable sample, is treated with compounds containing nitrogen and/or phosphorus as well as halogens with and without nitrogen. Each sample is heated thermogravimetrically, and pyrolytic gases are collected at various selected temperatures on the thermogravimetric curve for gas chromatographic and mass-spectrometric deter minations. The results reveal that flame retardant samples show extremely reduced amounts and fewer numbers of gas products compared with flammable samples, and some gases from flame retardant samples decrease with rising temperature, even disappearing at 500°C in the case of the (NH4)2HPO4-treated sample when flammable samples show further increases. Moreover, there is a considerable amount of toxic acrolein in flammable samples, but it is not detected or the amounts are much smaller in flame retardant samples. Acetonitrile, an effective radical scavenger, is found only in samples exposed to the synergistic effects of nitrogen and phosphorus or bromine. The results confirm that flame retardation works not only to inhibit combustion and subsequent gas generation, but also to scavenge pyrolytic gases already formed, resulting in a reduction or quenching of hazardous gas generation.
Effect of Measurement Principle and Measuring Field on Uniformity Measures of Spun Yarns
Authors: Kim Jooyong , Jasper Warren J. , Suh Moon W. , Woo Jae L.
Published: March 2008

The effect of measuring field length on yarn evenness is investigated by comparing the coefficient of variation or CV of the measure obtained from three different sensors with different measurement principles: a capacitance sensor with an 8 mm sensing zone, an optical sensor with a 2 mm sensing zone, and a laser scanner with a 1 mm effective sensing zone. A probabilistic model is developed to predict the different CV values obtained from the different instruments, and the results are compared with experimental values.
Evaluating Ester Crosslinking of Cotton Fabric by a Polycarboxylic Acid Using Acid-Base Titration
Authors: Yang Charles Q. , Dengjin Wang
Published: March 2008

Polycarboxylic acids such as 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) have been the most promising nonformaldehyde durable press finishing agents to replace the traditional N-methylol reagents. High levels of smooth fabric appearance are the direct result of ester crosslinking of cotton cellulose by a polycarboxylic acid, and appearance is therefore determined by the amount of ester crosslinks formed on the fabric. In this research, we use acid-base titration to evaluate ester crosslinking by measuring the concentrations of the ester and the free carboxylic acid and the percent of carboxyl groups forming crosslinks on the cotton treated with BTCA. We correlate the wrinkle resistance of the treated cotton with the ester concentration on the fabric. The linear correlation between wrinkle-recovery angle and ester concentration indicates that ester concentration determined by titration can be used as the basis for evaluating the effectiveness of crosslinking for durable press finished cottons.
A Thermomechanical Instability in the High Rate Extension of Textile Fibers
Authors: Godfrey Thomas A.
Published: March 2008

The effect of thermomechanical coupling arising from fiber plasticity on the stability of homogeneous straining deformation in fibers extended at high strain rates is investigated using a simple analytical approach. A constitutive model is assumed for the fiber's plastic deformation, incorporating linear thermal softening and linear strain hardening. The behavior of solutions to the coupled equations of motion and energy balance under adiabatic conditions is studied for small initial disturbances to the velocity field associated with homogeneous straining. Homogeneous straining motion is shown to be stable for particular values of a parameter involving the fiber's thermophysical and constitutive properties. For other values of the parameter, unstable strain localization leading to fiber rupture is demonstrated to be likely. The implications of these results with regard to high strain rate behavior of textile materials are discussed.
Viscoelastic Behavior of Fibers During Woven Fabric Bagging
Authors: Zhang X. , Li Y. , Yeung K.W. , Yao M.
Published: March 2008

The aim of this paper is to study the viscoelastic behavior of fibers during the woven fabric bagging process through a series of experiments and a mathematical model to simulate bagging under the testing conditions. Through a large number of computational experiments, the elastic modulus E1 , viscoelastic modulus E2, fiber relaxation time T, and three weighting coefficients ( k3, k4, k5) are determined for six woven fabrics made from different fibers. A comparison of the experimental measurements with the predicted bagging behavior of the fabrics reveals that the mathematical model is able to predict bagging behavior with reasonable accuracy. The results show that the viscoelastic behav ior of fibers in the six fabrics is significantly different during bagging. Nylon and polyester have a high elasticity ratio ( E, ), a low viscoelasticity ratio ( E2), and a large relaxation time T. Silk, viscose, and cotton fibers have a low elasticity ratio ( E, ), a high viscoelas ticity ratio ( E2), and a small relaxation time T. For cotton and wool, with the same level of viscoelasticity ( E2), the stress relaxation process is determined by relaxation time T. These results suggest that fiber viscoelastic behavior plays a key role in determining fabric rheological behavior during bagging.
Effect of Hot Water Processing on Dyeing and Mechanical Properties of Cottons Treated with Liquid Ammonia and Sodium Hydroxide
Authors: Wakida Tomiji , Kitamura Yoshiho , Lee Muncheul , Bae Soyeung , Meilan Chen  , Yoshioka Hiromu , Yanai Yuichi
Published: March 2008

NH3 and NaOH/NH3 treated cotton fabrics are processed with hot water at 100 and 130°C, and excellent shrink resistance is obtained with the processing. The crystallite form is transformed from cellulose III to cellulose I. Crystallinity decreased by the NH3 treatment increases a little after hot water processing and washing shrinkage is consider ably controlled. Although the dyeing rate decreases with the NH3 treatment, it increases a little with subsequent hot water processing. In contrast, equilibrium dye uptake de creases with the processing. The mechanical properties of the processed fabrics are evaluated by means of KES shear behavior ( G, 2 HG) and bending hysteresis ( B, 2HB). G and 2HG decreased by NH3 and NaOH/NH3 show almost no change after hot water processing, while B and 2HB, especially the latter, decrease considerably with the hot water processing after treatment with NH3 and NaOH/NH 3.
Evaluating a One-Bath Process for Imparting Antimicrobial Activity and Repellency to Nonwoven Surgical Gown Fabrics
Authors: Wei Huang  , Leonas Karen K.
Published: March 2008

A one-bath process to apply both antimicrobial and fluorochemical repellent finishes to nonwoven surgical gown fabrics is investigated in this study. The finishes are applied to two nonwovens: a polypropylene spunbonded/meltblown/spunbonded fabric and a wood pulp/polyester spunlaced fabric. Four different add-on levels of the finishes are applied to each fabric, resulting in sixteen finish combinations per fabric. Results show that both finishes are compatible for application in a one-bath process, and the antimicrobial and repellent properties are adequate with this process. Minimum chemical add-on levels of the antimicrobial and oil repellent finishes to achieve acceptable antimicrobial and repellent properties are determined for each fabric. The effectiveness of the antimicrobial finish is not affected by the repellent finish, but the effectiveness of the repellent finish varies with the add-on level of the antimicrobial finish.
Color Change of Disperse Dyes on Nylon 6 Films with Dye Concentration
Authors: Nakamura Takashi , Shibusawa Takao
Published: March 2008

Spectral changes of disperse dyes on nylon 6 film are investigated with decreasing dye concentration ( Cf). The visible absorption maxima (λmax) of most azo disperse dyes shift to longer wavelengths with decreasing C f. The shift is significant for dyes with dipole structures caused by the intramolecular charge transfer. The spectral change is analyzed in detail for CI Disperse Orange 3 and 5, practical disperse dyes, in terms of McRae's equation and a factor analysis. The λmax values for these dyes on film in the range of low Cf are much longer wavelengths than those estimated by McRae's equation and shift to shorter wavelengths with increasing temperature. The results of the factor analysis indicate that the visible absorption spectra of dyed films with decreasing Cf can be described as the sum of two distinct spectra, designated as species I and II. Species I has λmax at longer wavelengths than species II. The ratio of [species I]/[species II] increases with decreasing C f, causing a red shift of λmax with decreasing Cf. This result is consistent with the sorption behavior of these dyes by nylon 6 film from water, where the dyes are sorbed by the polymer as two distinct species: L—species—dye taken up by the polymer through the Langmuir sorption mechanism, and P—species—dye taken up by Nemst-type partitioning. For both dyes, the relations between C f and the concentrations of species I and II are very similar to the relations between Cf and the concentrations of the L- and P-species. We estimate that species I and II in this study correspond to L- and P-species in sorption studies, respectively.
Characterizing the Noncellulosics in Developing Cotton Fibers
Authors: Hartzell-Lawson M. Michelle , Hsieh You-Lo
Published: March 2008

Surface wetting measurements and several analytical techniques including FTIR/ATR, DSC, TGA, and pyrolysis-GC/MS are used to characterize the noncellulosic components of developing cotton fibers as intact components of the fiber structure. Water contact angle measurements are most sensitive to the presence of hydrophobic compounds on the surfaces of cotton fibers of all ages and to their removal by alkaline scouring. In general, FTIR/ATR, DSC, TGA, and pyrolysis-GC/MS provide clear evidence of specific noncellulosic components in developing cotton fibers through the onset of secondary celt wall synthesis. Waxy compounds are evident by their melting endotherms in DSC thermograms, carbonyl bands in FTIR spectra, and mass spectra in the untreated developing fibers between 12 and 17 dpa. Pectins are detected by. FTIR in the 14 dpa and mature fibers. FTIR/ATR measure ments indicate the presence of proteins in untreated fibers up to 16 dpa and water-rinsed fibers up to 18 dpa. The presence of proteins in 14 dpa fibers is also detected by pyrolysis-GC/MS data. Among the analytical techniques, only pyrolysis-GC/MS can detect the presence of noncellulosic compounds in 27 dpa fibers. Detection of noncellulosics by the other techniques diminishes as the proportion of cellulose rapidly increases with the onset of secondary cell wall synthesis.
Fabric Sound Parameters and Their Relationship with Mechanical Properties
Authors: Eunjou Yi  , Cho Gilsoo
Published: March 2008

A number of woven fabrics are selected and their rustling sounds recorded. The spectra forms of these recorded sounds are then obtained by FFT. The level pressure of total sound (LPT) is calculated to evaluate sound loudness of specimens. Level range (Δ L) and frequency differences (Δ f) are used to quantify sound spectra shapes. Linear trends in frequency with autoregressive errors are fitted to amplitude, and three coefficients (ARF, ARE, ARC) of the functions are obtained. KES-FB is used for mechanical property measure ments. Fabrics with the same fiber type show similar spectra shapes. Silk and polyester satin fabrics generally make the quietest sounds with low LPT, and they also have lower ARC values. Silk crepe de chine shows the highest level range value (Δ L). ARC values are significantly correlated to LPT. The sound parameters of each fiber group are predicted with some mechanical properties such as bending, shear, compression, and surface properties, fabric thickness, and weight by stepwise regressions.
Predicting Bursting Strength of Cotton Plain Knitted Fabrics Using Intelligent Techniques
Authors: Ertugrul Seniz , Ucar Nuray
Published: March 2008

The bursting strength of cotton plain knitted fabrics is predicted before manufacturing using intelligent techniques of neural network and neuro-fuzzy approaches in this re search. Among many parameters that affect fabric bursting strength, fabric weight, yarn breaking strength, and yarn breaking elongation are input elements for the predictions. In this research, both the multi-layer feed-forward neural network and adaptive network- based fuzzy inference system, a combination of a radial basis neural network and the Sugeno-Takagi fuzzy system, are studied. Both systems have the ability to learn training data successfully, and testing errors are small enough to give an approximate knowledge of the bursting strength of the fabric to be knitted.
Characterizing Fuzz on Fabrics Using Image Analysis
Authors: Hsi Chang H. , Bresee Randall R. , Annis Patricia A.
Published: March 2008

A hardware device and software based on image analysis techniques are developed to detect and describe fuzz on fabric surfaces. Thin optical slices near the surface of fabrics are imaged with a microscope objective lens and electronic camera. Sharply focused fuzz fibers are detected within each image and described in terms of fuzz density, fuzz height, and fabric-fuzz separation. The hardware device and software techniques are evaluated by visualizing fuzz detection in individual images and by assessing the reasonableness of measured fuzz parameters for fabrics with intuitively known fuzz attributes. The instru ment's usefulness is explored by assessing the influence of the yarn interlacing pattern, mechanical abrasion, and a fuzz-reducing finish on fuzz.
Qualitative Classification of Cotton Stickiness in the H2SD High Speed Stickiness Detector
Authors: Tamine O. Fonteneau , Goze E. , Frydrych R. , Drean J.-Y.
Published: March 2008

Regularly confronted with the problem of cotton stickiness during spinning, those in the international market wish to see the implementation of a cotton bale classification system to describe the degree to which a given cotton is contaminated. Thermodetection equip ment such as the H2SD high speed stickiness detector may be suitable for such a task. With a working capacity equivalent to that of HVI lines, this instrument evaluates the stickiness of cottons contaminated by insect honeydew. This paper discusses the feasibility of a qualitative classification based on within-bale distribution of the number of sticky points. A detailed example obtained with the H2SD illustrates the qualitative classification proce dure. Sticky bales can be separated from uncontaminated bales for the latter to be marketed with a guaranteed stickiness level below a set threshold and a litigation risk selected in advance.
Topographical Study of Low Temperature Plasma Treated Flax Fibers
Authors: Wong K.K. , Tao X.M. , Yuen C.W.M. , Yeung K.W.
Published: March 2008

A comprehensive study of morphological and topographical changes in low tempera ture plasma treated flax fibers is reported. Time-series images of fiber surface appearance are examined by environmental scanning electron microscopy (ESEM). As the exposure time increases, the depth of the micropores etched by the plasma increases with increasing pore width. The surface fibrils remain on the surface at up to 40 minutes of oxygen plasma or 60 minutes of argon plasma exposure. The dominant fabric weight loss of linen during plasma treatment is mainly attributed to fiber surface etching. Fiber contraction is also observed during plasma treatment. The ESEM micrographs show a good correlation with the SEM micrographs. The depth of the etched pits induced by the argon and oxygen plasma is measured by atomic force microscopy (AFM). On the relatively smooth surface of an untreated flax fiber, the argon plasma creates pits of mainly submicrometer size (both depth and diameter), while the oxygen plasma creates pits of a few micrometers. Image processing techniques provide a quantitative description of the surface topography of plasma treated flax fibers, and the FFT power spectra describe periodic surface features. Changes in the surface roughness of the plasma etched flax fibers are quantified by RMS values.
Fiber Feeding onto the Yarn Tail in Friction Spinning
Authors: Merati Ali Akbar , Okamura Masaaki , Marui Etsuo
Published: March 2008

Air and fiber flow patterns and fiber landings are two important parameters we discuss in this paper. We use tracer filaments to study the effect of various parameters such as combing roller rotation, friction roller rotation, and suction air pressure on the fiber flow pattern in the transport channel. We also use staple fibers to consider the mechanisms of fiber landing and the manner of fiber capture by the yam tail. Our results show that although the rotation of combing and friction rollers affects the flow in the channel, the most important parameter is suction air pressure. One of the most important results is the small size of the flow outlet, about 25 mm, when the main parts of the machine are running, while the outlet of a conventional channel is 115 mm. This means that most of the fiber supply may land on the yam tail at the flow outlet of the channel. Although considering fiber motion within the transport channel is a difficult problem, the body of the flow is found by tracing the shape of a filament in the channel. The results of fiber landing experiments show that there are two kinds of landings: "drawing" by the yam tail and the fiber "trapping" by itself on the yam tail surface. The landing and capturing phenomena depend on the fiber position in the transport channel and the yam-forming zone. Both drawing by the yam tail and the fiber trapping by itself may occur as the fibers pass through the transport channel. Most of the fibers fed from the upside of the transport channel will be drawn by the yam tail, while the probability of both drawing and trapping is almost equal for fibers fed from the downside of the channel.
Measuring Deformations of Limp Fabrics for Material Handling
Authors: Kopp Clayton , Rahn Christopher D. , Paul Frank W.
Published: March 2008

There is an increasing focus on automating the textile industry, particularly labor- intensive tasks such as fabric manipulation and assembly. The highly flexible nature of these materials makes automation very challenging. Not only are fabrics difficult to manipulate, but their geometric characteristics are difficult to measure with conventional instruments. Accurate ways of measuring the state of the workpiece are needed to provide feedback for system control. This paper proposes a system for measuring the shape and range of locations for a wrinkle along the length of a fabric strip, based on a measurement of the difference between its total unwrinkled length and total wrinkled length Δ Ltotal. A relationship can be established between ΔLtotal and the forces necessary to sustain the wrinkle that corresponds to Δ Ltotal using Clapp's model for the fabric elastica and a model of the flat fabric lying on the table. Force balances that include the frictional force required to support the wrinkle provide the basis for locating it along a spatial length. A nondi mensional variation of Clapp's model shows many possible solutions or modes for a wrinkle shape corresponding to one value of Δ Ltotal, although the boundary forces will be different for each mode. Each wrinkle shape is unique in the number of "humps" it contains. This variation of the model also shows that as the wrinkle gets taller, an effect similar to an inverted pendulum occurs when the simulated wrinkle tends to lean to one side or the other. These results can be observed experimentally with actual fabrics, although heavier weight fabrics have poorer comparisons to their modeled simulations. One explanation is that heavier fabrics are prone to interfiber friction that creates material memory, which was not included in the mathematical model analysis. This system provides a useful measuring tool for industry. The general solution provided by the nondimensional model defines important relationships between the wrinkle's boundary forces and Δ Ltotal. Finding the material parameters of a fabric, which costs only a small initial time investment, provides information the general model needs to predict a shape and range of locations for a wrinkle in a high-speed industrial environment.
Subjective Hand and Compressional Property Values of Woolen Fabrics
Authors: Na Youngjoo , Chung Haewon
Published: March 2008

Two differently finished woolen fabrics yield pressure-thickness curves to maxi mum pressures of 35, 50, and 70 gf/cm2. Compressional property values and subjec tive hand rankings are analyzed according to the finish types. Most compressional property values differ according to the finish and the maximum pressure. Subjective springiness differs according to finish type, while subjective fullness, hardness, and thickness do not differ. Predicted models for the subjective hand rankings are calculated from the compressional property values, fabric weight, and finish types through multiple stepwise regression. The coefficient of determination ranges from 0.90 through 0.97.
Mechanical and Tactile Compression of Fabrics: Influence on Handle
Authors: Aliouche D. , Viallter P.
Published: March 2008

The classical interpretation of fabric friction is viscoelastic, but its correlation with compression curves is poor. Measurements show that at low pressures, friction essentially depends as much on fabric hairiness as on compression. The limit of compressibility is a function of the yarn arrangement, the yarn structure itself being less important. We explain the difference between a film and a fabric, and also the influence of the mass per unit of surface. The results show the influence of surface finishes on the handle of cloth.
Microstructure Organization in Para-aramid Fibers
Authors: Davis Hawthorne , Singletary James , Srinivasarao Mohan , Knoff Warren , Ramasubramanian M.K.
Published: March 2008

The existence of "lateral birefringence," i.e., the difference between the refractive index for light polarized parallel to the fiber radius and light polarized perpendicular to the radius in the cross-sectional plane, combined with the existence of electron diffraction contrast "bands" in longitudinal fiber sections has led to work appearing to indicate that para-aramid fibers, in particular poly(para-phenylene terephthalamide), have an almost crystallographically perfect orthotropic structure in which the hydrogen bonds are all parallel to fiber radii. Optical path difference profiles, calculated based on the proposed orthotropic structure, are in reasonable qualitative agreement with interference microscope data. Quantitatively, however, the orthotropic structure is only partially developed based on published values of the principle refractive indices. Furthermore, the degree to which this structure is developed varies with distance from the fiber axis in some fibers' types.