bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Barriers and facilitators to the utilization of adult mental health services by Australia's Indigenous people: Seeking a way forward
Authors: Isaacs Anton Neville , Pyett Priscilla , Oakley‐Browne Mark A. , Gruis Hilton , Waples‐Crowe Peter
Published: March 2010

Mental disorders are the second leading cause of disease burden among Australia's Indigenous people after cardiovascular disease. Yet Indigenous people do not access mental health services in proportion to their need. This paper explores the barriers and facilitators for Indigenous people seeking mental health services in Australia and identifies key elements in the development and maintenance of partnerships for improved service delivery and future research. The process of seeking help for mental illness has been conceptualized as four consecutive steps starting from recognizing that there is a problem to actually contacting the mental health service. We have attempted to explore the factors affecting each of these stages. While people in the general population experience barriers across all four stages of the process of seeking treatment for a mental disorder, there are many more barriers for Indigenous people at the stage of actually contacting a mental health service. These include a history of racism and discrimination and resultant lack of trust in mainstream services, misunderstandings due to cultural and language differences, and inadequate measures to reduce the stigma associated with mental illness. Further research is required to understand the mental health literacy of Indigenous people, their different perceptions of mental health and well‐being, issues around stigma, and the natural history of mental illness among Indigenous people who do not access any form of professional help. Collaborations between mainstream mental health services and Aboriginal organizations have been promoted as a way to conduct research into developing appropriate services for Indigenous people.
Once‐a‐week psychiatric ward round or daily inpatient team meeting? A multidisciplinary mental health team's experience of new ways of working
Authors: Fiddler Magdalen , Borglin Gunilla , Galloway Adrian , Jackson Carl , McGowan Linda , Lovell Karina
Published: March 2010

Evidence indicates that while service users are dissatisfied with current ward round practices, studies of how professionals experience this practice are sparse. This study highlights staff view of the once‐a‐week psychiatric ward round compared to a reformed ward round taking place every weekday. Interviews were conducted at one acute psychiatric ward in north‐west England. Our analysis revealed a core theme, ‘forming a new way of working’, which could be understood from three themes. The theme, ‘bound by tradition’, emphasized how the traditional ward round represented a double‐edged sword: it provided a safe structure, but it also highlighted a shared awareness of an urgent need to leave old ways of working behind. The process of change became discernable in the themes ‘juggling the change’ and ‘light at the end of the tunnel’, which showed that restructuring the traditional ward round was both possible and valued. We found that staff views on ward rounds are more complex than had been earlier understood, but new ways of working can be implemented, if the impact of tradition, the process of change, and the time to bed down are taken into account.
Detainment and health: The case of the Lebanese hostages of war
Authors: Farhood Laila F. , Chaaya Monique , Saab Bassem Roberto
Published: March 2010

The purpose of the current research was to compare former detainees of Khiam prison to a comparison group regarding depression, anxiety, presence of chronic diseases, smoking, and alcohol drinking. The sample consisted of 118 ex‐detainees and 90 community controls. The Beck Depression Inventory, the Hamilton Anxiety Scale, the Clinician‐Administered Post‐Traumatic Stress Disorder Scale, and the Harvard Trauma Questionnaire were used. The ex‐detainees suffered from an increased level of depression, high anxiety scores, increased chronic diseases, smoked more, and consumed more alcohol than their comparison group. Regression analyses showed that detainment independently predicted depression and anxiety.
A guide for mental health clinicians to develop and undertake benchmarking activities
Authors: Cleary Michelle , Hunt Glenn E. , Walter Garry , Tong Lizabeth
Published: March 2010

There is a growing expectation for staff to participate in benchmarking activities. If benchmarking projects are to be successful, managers and clinicians need to be aware of the steps involved. In this article, we identify key aspects of benchmarking and consider how clinicians and managers can respond to and meet contemporary requirements for the development of sound benchmarking relationships. Practicalities and issues that must be considered by benchmarking teams are also outlined. Before commencing a benchmarking project, ground rules and benchmarking agreements must be developed and ratified. An understandable benchmarking framework is required: one that is sufficiently robust for clinicians to engage in benchmarking activities and convince others that benchmarking has taken place. There is a need to build the capacity of clinicians in relation to benchmarking.
Brain–gut communication via vagus nerve modulates conditioned flavor preference
Authors: Uematsu Akira , Tsurugizawa Tomokazu , Uneyama Hisayuki , Torii Kunio
Published: March 2010

It is well known that the postingestive effect modulates subsequent food preference. We previously showed that monosodium L‐glutamate (MSG) can increase flavor preference by its postingestive effect. The neural pathway involved in mediating this effect, however, remains unknown. We show here the role of the vagus nerve in acquiring this learned flavor preference and in the brain’s response to intragastric glutamate infusion. Adult rats with an intragastric cannula underwent total abdominal branch vagotomies (TVX), common hepatic branch vagotomies (HVX), total abdominal branch vagotomies with the common hepatic branch intact (TVXh), or sham operations (Sham). Following recovery, rats were subjected to a conditioned flavor preference paradigm, in which they drank a flavored solution (CS+) paired with intragastric MSG or another flavored solution (CS−) paired with intragastric distilled water. After conditioning, the Sham and HVX groups demonstrated significantly higher intake of CS+ than CS−, whereas the TVXh and TVX groups showed no significant differences. We then conducted an fMRI study to identify the brain areas that responded to the intragastric glutamate in each group. In the Sham, HVX and TVXh groups, intragastric MSG significantly increased the BOLD intensity in the nucleus of the solitary tract. The amygdala, hippocampus and lateral hypothalamus were also activated in the Sham and HVX groups but not in the TVXh and TVX groups. These results indicate that the abdominal vagus nerve is necessary for acquiring preference and that the lateral hypothalamus and limbic system could be key areas for integrating the information on gut glutamate and oronasal stimuli.
Connectivity, non‐random extinction and ecosystem function in experimental metacommunities
Authors: Staddon Philip , Lindo Zoë , Crittenden Peter D. , Gilbert Francis , Gonzalez Andrew
Published: March 2010

Ecology Letters(2010) 13: 543–552

The spatial insurance hypothesis indicates that connectivity is an important attribute of natural ecosystems that sustains both biodiversity and ecosystem function. We tested the hypothesis by measuring the impact of manipulating connectivity in experimental metacommunties of a natural and diverse microecosystem. Isolation led to the extinction of large‐bodied apex predators, subsequently followed by increases in prey species abundance. This trophic cascade was associated with significantly altered carbon and nitrogen fluxes in fragmented treatments. The ecosystem impacts were characteristic of a function debt because they persisted for several generations after the initial loss of connectivity. Local extinctions and disruption of ecosystem processes were mitigated, and even reversed, by the presence of corridors in the connected metacommunities, although these beneficial effects were unexpectedly delayed. We hypothesized that corridors maintained grazer movement between fragments, which enhanced microbial activity, and decomposition in comparison to isolated fragments. Our results indicate that knowledge of habitat connectivity and spatial processes is essential to understand the magnitude and timing of ecosystem perturbation in fragmented landscapes.
The Sound of Berlin: Subculture and the Global Music Industry
Authors: BADER INGO , SCHARENBERG ALBERT
Published: March 2010

In recent years, Berlin has become a ‘world media city’. Our thesis is that a key reason for this development can be found in its dynamic subculture. In the 1990s the club and music scene thrived, in particular in the deindustrializing inner‐city areas, thereby paving the way for large media and music corporations to move to Berlin. The rise of the Berlin techno and electronic music scene, and recently also of hip‐hop, to a successful cultural district, is therefore closely connected to the urban transformation since the fall of the Berlin Wall, as well as to the increasing importance of the ‘creative class’ in the local economy. The article examines the connections between the specific local urban environment of the city and the development and rise of its creative and subcultural milieus. The relation between subculture and the music industry, however, cannot simply be described as a commodification of underground and its use as a brand name. Rather, it highlights the fact that flexible integration of the creative districts of subcultural music production is becoming one of the new organizational models of the industry.

Depuis peu, Berlin est devenue une «ville mondiale des médias». Cette évolution est due en grande partie au dynamisme de sa sous‐culture. Dans les années 1990, les clubs et la scène musicale ont prospéré, en particulier dans les quartiers déshérités du centre en voie de désindustrialisation, ouvrant ainsi les portes à l’installation à Berlin de grosses compagnies du secteur des médias et de la musique. L’essor de la scène musicale techno et électronique, et récemment aussi du hip‐hop, en un quartier culturel florissant est donc étroitement liéà la transformation urbaine depuis la chute du Mur, ainsi qu’à la place grandissante de la «classe créative» dans l’économie locale. L’article examine les rapports entre le contexte urbain local spécifique, d’une part, et l’évolution et l’ascension de ses milieux créatifs et sous‐culturels, d’autre part. Toutefois, on ne peut ramener la relation entre sous‐culture et industrie musicale à une marchandisation de l’«underground» et à son utilisation comme un nom de marque. En revanche, elle met en avant le fait que l’intégration progressive des secteurs créatifs de la production musicale sous‐culturelle devient l’un des nouveaux modèles organisationnels de cette industrie.
Challenging the scalp with ‘dry’ wash shampooing (DW) on Chinese men: an in vivo study
Authors: Liu Y. , Liu C. , Collaudin C. , Saint‐Léger D. , Loussouarn G. , Kravtchenko S. , Genain G.
Published: March 2010

Synopsis

Cosmetic habits show a strong diversity worldwide. The same applies to procedures that are considered as basic hygiene acts such as shampooing. Apart from common traditional shampoo routine, a special shampoo procedure, ‘dry’ wash is daily performed in Chinese hair salons. Without pre‐wetting step, hairdresser applies the shampoo directly to dry hair with small quantity of water to create foam. Hand massaging is then offered on the scalp. This shampooing process is distinguished from traditional ‘regular wash’ by slightly diluted shampoo, and longer contact with the scalp and scalp massaging, all of which could be possibly considered as challenges to the structure and barrier function of the scalp. In this study, the effects of ‘dry’ wash on Chinese scalp have been investigated, in vivo, using regular wash as a control. A total of 67 Chinese males in two cohorts, non‐dandruff and with dandruff, were included. In each cohort, volunteers were split into two groups, one with ‘dry’ wash and the other one with regular wash. Both shampoo methods were performed daily for five consecutive days using the same shampoo formulation. Volunteers’ self assessment, clinical assessment by an expert and instrumental measurements were carried out. The results showed that Chinese ‘dry’ wash did not induce any negative consequence on the scalp physiology under such experimental conditions.
A new oxidant for hair coloring
Authors: Marsh J. , Dahlgren R. M. , Clarke C. , Stonehouse J. , Nunn C.
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 205–215 (March/April 2009)

Synopsis

Coloring hair using a level 3 permanent colorant involves two processes, lightening the underlying melanin and formation of the colored chromophores inside the hair. In typical in‐market products the oxidant used to achieve these changes is hydrogen peroxide buffered at pH 10 with an alkalizer such as ammonium hydroxide. A new oxidant has been developed based on the combination of ammonium carbonate, hydrogen peroxide and glycine at pH 9 that can match the lightening and color performance of the current oxidant. It has the advantage that both the carbonate and hydrogen peroxide concentrations can be changed to alter the lightening performance making it a more flexible oxidant. This allows the capability to lighten the hair in a shorter time, or with lower hydrogen peroxide levels. This paper discusses the key oxidizing species that are present in both systems and the mechanisms of melanin lightening. In addition, the lightening performance will be assessed as a function of time, pH, hydrogen peroxide concentration and carbonate concentration. The importance of glycine to the oxidant is also described along with a proposal for its mechanism of action. It has been demonstrated that the addition of glycine can control the undesired formation of carbonate radicals that can be generated from the oxidant. The control of these radicals enables the oxidant to deliver excellent lightening with no negatives in fiber damage vs. conventional oxidants.
Protection of oxidative hair color fading from shampoo washing by hydrophobically modified cationic polymers
Authors: Zhou Y. , Foltis L. , Moore D. J. , Rigoletto R.
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 217–238 (March/April 2009)

Synopsis

The fading of oxidative color in hair as a result of daily shampoo washing activities has become a common problem and a source of frequent complaints by consumers. The fading occurs primarily through hair dye solubility in water. One aspect of the current study investigates the physical and chemical factors that influence hair color fading during the washing process. This is accomplished by testing hair dye dissolution in water from dyed hair samples with variation of surfactant type, pH, and hair type. Furthermore, a new approach to preventing color fading is developed aiming to provide an effective barrier function for hair dye from dissolving into water. The preliminary investigation of a series of polymers with various functional groups indicates that polymers with hydrophobically modified and cationic functionalities are most effective in preventing hair dye dissolution in water. It is also evident that a synergistic effect of the polymer's hydrophobic moieties and cationic charges are important on hair color protection during shampoo washing processes. A primary example of a polymer within this category is a cationic terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide, and methacryloylaminopropyl lauryldimonium chloride (INCI: Polyquaternium‐55). The color protection benefit of this polymer is evaluated using newly developed methodologies for evaluating hair color changes, such as hair color fading tests through multiple shampoo washes with mannequin heads and hair tresses, both derived from human hair, colorimetry, and quantitative digital image analysis. In addition, new infrared spectroscopic imaging techniques are used to detect the hair dye deposition behavior inside hair fibers both with and without the color protection treatment. Both visual and instrumental measurement results indicate that Polyquaternium‐55 provides a high level of color protection when formulated in a hair color protection regimen with up to 50% color protection. This regimen significantly outperforms commercial products that were tested containing a color protection claim. The proposed mechanism for the anti‐fading action of hydrophobically modified polymers includes a cationic charge‐reinforced hydrophobic barrier. This model is supported by evaluating the color fastness effect of several different polymer chemistries and by measuring hair surface hydrophobicity changes.
Evaluation of novel synthetic conditioning polymers for shampoos
Authors: Jordan S. L. , Zhang X. , Amos J. , Frank D. , Menon R. , Galley R. , Davis C. , Kalantar T. , Ladika M.
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 239–250 (March/April 2009)

Synopsis

Cationic polymers have traditionally been used in shampoo formulations to impart conditioning properties to hair. In this study, commercial synthetic cationic polymers were investigated using coacervate formation, objective wet comb analysis, silicone deposition and panel studies to determine structure function properties with the goal of developing novel conditioning polymers. New polymers were synthesized and, based on criteria determined in the first part of the study, found to have marginal improvement over existing synthetic cationic conditioning polymers. A novel experimental polymer developed for a different industry was also investigated for conditioning properties. This polymer showed significant enhancement of silicone deposition over current commercial polymers, including cationic guar, even at significantly reduced silicone and polymer concentrations. The experimental polymer exhibited parity or improvement over benchmark polymers in panel studies, and similar performance to other synthetic polymers in objective wet comb studies.
The mechanics of fixatives as explained by polymer composite principles
Authors: Rafferty D. W. , Zellia J. , Hasman D. , Mullay J.
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 251–259 (March/April 2009)

Synopsis

Polymer composite principles are shown to explain the mechanism and performance of fixative‐treated hair tresses. This concept is illustrated using cassia and experimental cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride derivatives at two charge densities. Correlations are drawn between polymer film and fixative performance properties, and the primary mechanisms behind the performance of each polymer are suggested. The cationic charge density affects the adhesion and cohesion of these polymers, and the contributions of these two properties to performance are shown. It is also shown that the relationship between cationic charge density and fixative stiffness of these polymers is dependent on the relative humidity (RH) of the test. The lower charge density polymer yields higher tress stiffness than the higher charge density polymer at 50% RH, but this trend is reversed at 90% RH. A hypothesis is offered in explanation of this phenomenon, relating adhesion and cohesion to the performance of fixative‐hair composites. At high humidity, moisture can plasticize the polymers, reducing the cohesive strength, so electrostatic attraction and thus adhesion becomes the dominant force. Evidence to support this hypothesis is given.
Brazilian oils and butters: The effect of different fatty acid chain composition on human hair physiochemical properties
Authors: Fregonesi A. , Scanavez C. , Santos L. , De Oliveira A. , Roesler R. , Escudeiro C. , Moncayo P. , De Sanctis D. , Gesztesi J. L.
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 273–280 (March/April 2009)

Synopsis

This study evaluated the performance of five oils and three butters extracted from Brazilian plants with different fatty chain composition on hair mechanical properties, split end formation, combing analysis and gloss measurements. Oil treatment reduced the combing force percentage for wet conditions. However, the hair treated with butters showed poor combing. Except for ucuúba butter, oils and butters used in this work had generally no influence on hair tensile properties. In general, hair treated with oils showed a significant gloss increase and a decrease for split end formation. The fatty acid composition of the oils and butters tested showed an effect on the physicochemical properties of hair.
The shine problem in hair: Review of imaging methods and measures for luster
Authors: Kaplan P. D. , Park K. , Qi J. , Yang K.
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 111–123 (March/April 2009)

Synopsis

There is a need for both a better understanding of the technical drivers of shiny appearance in hair and for standard methods and measures of shine. To this end, we develop standard treatment methods for changing hair shine and examine a number of image‐based measurements of luster. Using psychophysical techniques to get a perceptual reference, we find that available technical measures are difficult to use when trying to quantify the small changes in shine associated with treatment.
Approaches to polymer selection for mascara formulation
Authors: Loginova Y. , Shah V. , Allen G. , Macchio R. , Farer A.
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 125–133 (March/April 2009)

Synopsis

The use of hair‐care and hair‐styling polymers in mascara formulation is well known. This paper introduces pre‐formulative evaluation of film formers which are intended to be applied on eyelashes for mascara development to screen film formers more effectively. The film‐forming characteristics of randomly selected hairstyling polymers were evaluated under the influence of pH, temperature, surfactant, and pigment dispersion. The selected polymers included acrylics, polyurethanes, and a pyrrolidone, all of which are used throughout the hair‐care and mascara industries. An Erichsen Model 299/300 Pendulum Damping Tester was used to determine film hardness. In analyzing samples by the effect of temperature, the hardest neat polymer, a styrene‐acrylate, softened 30% after heating. For most of the other polymers, the hardness was slightly lower compared to the neat polymer. The addition of pigment did not significantly influence the hardness of one acrylic copolymer and a urethane dispersion, but most of the other polymers exhibited a reduction in film hardness. Various hardnesses were observed with different surfactants and different pH's.
The Aqualon SLT: A novel device for measuring hair stiffness and lubricity
Authors: Vaynberg K. A. , Nall M.
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 135–141 (March/April 2009)

Synopsis

The ability to quantify hair property changes in response to treatment is essential to the successful development of new formulations and benefiting agents. In the attempt to expand the toolbox of hair tress testing tools, we developed a device that allows hair scientists to measure hair tress changes in stiffness and lubricity. The tool is based on a system of pins mounted on free rotating bearings and is operated in two modes: rotating and stationary. The hair attributes are measured by threading a hair tress through the pin assembly and measuring the total work of pulling through in rotational and stationary modes (the latter mode is obtained by immobilizing pins by a retaining plate). The data thus obtained is de‐convoluted into the work of apparent stiffness (rotational mode) and the work of the friction‐on‐pins or lubricity (stationary mode minus the apparent stiffness). The data can be further reduced to produce an apparent friction coefficient defined as a ratio of the apparent lubricity to the apparent stiffness. This work demonstrates the utility of the parameters measured by the Aqualon SLT and illustrates how the device can be used to predict and understand the impacts of various hair treatments.
New luster formula for the characterization of hair tresses using polarization imaging
Authors: Lefaudeux N. , Lechocinski N. , Clemenceau P. , Breugnot S.
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 153–169 (March/April 2009)

Synopsis

Hair luster is one of the most important parameters of visual appearance perceived by consumers. Current luster formulae (TRI, Reich‐Robbins, ...) are optimized for goniophotometric measurements. They are based on a mathematical decomposition of reflected light into specular and diffused light and the measurement of the shine peak width on the fitted angular distributions. In this expose, we are describing a polarization imaging system measuring luster of hair tresses with an innovative algorithm. Using polarization imaging allows to physically separating the specular light from the diffused light for each pixel of the imaged tress. Angular distributions of the specular and diffused light are obtained in a few seconds. Where conventional methods calculate the shine peak width on the angular distribution, the imaging system imitates the human eye and calculates the shine width directly on the image. The new formula combines different measured parameters to objectively quantify luster. It was designed to exhibit a higher correlation with visual perception along with a higher sensitivity. Results obtained with conventional formulae are compared on different hair tresses, treated and untreated. The new formula is found to be consistent for a whole range of hair colors, from light to dark.
Measurements of hair volume by laser stereometry
Authors: McMullen R. , ZISA F. , Jachowicz J.
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 171–185 (March/April 2009)

Synopsis

A three‐dimensional laser stereometer was constructed utilizing an x–y two‐dimensional translational stage and a laser device, which provides distance information in the z‐direction. The distance data is obtained by triangulation of the reflecting red laser beam from the surface of the measured object, in this case hair. Since hair fiber assemblies do not have a continuous solid surface, each z‐dimension reading is obtained as an average of measurements obtained from multiple reflections corresponding to fibers at various depths below the outermost hair surface. We demonstrate the utility of this technique to perform the analysis of either an entire hair tress or relatively short sections of tresses prepared from straight, curly, and frizzy hair and subjected to cosmetic treatments such as washing, conditioning, dyeing, etc. An interpretation is provided for the three‐dimensional images of hair assemblies as well as for the calculated volume of space occupied by a hair tress. In addition, we investigated various strategies for testing the volume retention of styling polymers.
Study of hair shine and hair surface smoothness
Authors: Gao T. , Pereira A. , Zhu S.
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 187–197 (March/April 2009)

Synopsis

A new hair visual appearance measurement system called SAMBA from Bossa Nova Technologies (Venice, CA, USA) has been employed to measure effects of cosmetic treatments on hair shine and surface smoothness of different types of hair samples. Experimental procedures for evaluations of shine value and surface cuticle angle of hair samples treated with rinse‐off products (shampoo or/and conditioner) have been successfully established and applied. We demonstrated that hair spray and conditioner formulas containing PPG‐3 benzyl ether myristate (PBEM) (1) showed great performance on shine enhancement for hairs with light and medium colors. Instrumental measurement of shine values was also conducted to compare different commercial shampoo and conditioner products. This study showed reliable utility of SAMBA system and demonstrated the shine enhancement of PBEM in hair care.
Multiparticulate carriers for sun‐screening agents
Authors: Jain S. K. , Jain N. K.
Published: March 2010

Synopsis

Many molecular sunscreens penetrate into the skin causing photo‐allergic and photo‐toxic reactions as well as skin irritations establishing an urgent need for the development of a safer sunscreen formulation. The search for active substances, efficient combinations, and the design of novel vehicles or carriers has led to the implementation of new cosmetic systems in contrast to the classic forms such as creams or gels. Amongst various approaches utilized to improve performance of sunscreening agents, the use of multiparticulate delivery systems is gaining increasing attention amongst researchers. Multiparticulate delivery systems can be incorporated into gels, creams, liquids, powders or other formulations, and can release active agents depending on their temperature, moisture, friction, volatility of the entrapped ingredients or time. These systems also have the ability of scattering or reflecting incoming UV radiations and therefore can act as physical sunscreens on their own.
In vivo skin analysis (INSA) for quantitative determination of lotion transfer to human skin
Authors: Ebrahimpour A. , Ullman A. H.
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 315–321 (May/June 2009)

Accepted for publication January 9, 2009.

Synopsis

There is a need during the development of cosmetic and skin products for simple, quantitative, noninvasive measurements of product deposition onto skin. In this article we describe INSA (in vivo skin analysis) as such a method for measuring the amount of lotion transferred to the skin from tissue products. Using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy with an attenuated total reflectance (ATR FT‐IR) sampling accessory, we were able to quantify lotion levels on the arms of subjects in minutes.
Novel mechanism for hair shine with special optical enhancement effect on blonde hair
Authors: Iwai S. , Sato H. , Shibuichi S. , Satoh N.
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 323–336 (May/June 2009)

Accepted for publication October 21, 2008.

Synopsis

Compared with dark or brunette hair, blonde hair has different characteristic features of appearance such as bright shine with a soft tonal color. In this report, novel optical mechanisms of the characteristic blonde hair appearance are reported. Optical analyses of goniophotometric measurements were carried out to elucidate the mechanisms of strong reflections observed in blonde hairs. As a result, reflections with much higher intensity than those from the front surface of a fiber were confirmed to play important roles in the case of blonde hair fibers, and the intensities were found to vary with the cross‐sectional shape of a fiber, the ellipticity (=minor axis/major axis). From light path simulation analyses, these strong reflections were verified to result from total reflection from the back surface of a fiber. Furthermore, since each hair fiber acts as a lens and/or a reflector, intricate reflection behaviors are suggested to occur as a consequence of the combination of light condensation and total reflection.
Copper and calcium uptake in colored hair
Authors: Smart K. E. , Kilburn M. , Schroeder M. , Martin B. G. H. , Hawes C. , Marsh J. M. , Grovenor C. R. M.
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 337–345 (May/June 2009)

Accepted for publication December 29, 2008.

Synopsis

During hair coloring a number of disulfide bonds in cystine are oxidized (1) to create cysteic acid, forming binding sites for metal ions such as Ca2+ and Cu2+ from tap water (2). The increased uptake of these metals can have a detrimental impact on fiber properties—for example, reducing shine and causing a poor wet and dry feel (3). In addition, the increased uptake of copper can also contribute to further fiber damage during subsequent coloring due to its ability to take part in metal‐induced radical chemistry (4). It is important to know where in the fibers these metals are located in order to either effectively remove these metals or control their chemistry. Nanoscale secondary ion mass spectrometry (NanoSIMS) has been used to locate the calcium and copper within hair that has been treated with a colorant and washed multiple times in tap water containing these ions. Untreated hair is used as a baseline standard material. Images with up to 50‐nm spatial resolution of the preferential locations of calcium uptake were obtained, showing a high concentration of calcium in the cuticle region of colored hair, specifically in the sulfur‐rich regions (A‐layer and exocuticle).
Tyrosinase inhibitors isolated from the roots of Paeonia suffruticosa
Authors: Ding H. ‐Y. , Lin H. ‐C. , Chang T. ‐S.
Published: March 2010

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 347–352 (May/June 2009)

Accepted for publication November 6, 2008.

Synopsis

The inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase by Paeonia suffruticosa root‐derived materials was evaluated. Six tyrosinase inhibitors were isolated by ethanol extraction, n‐hexane, ethyl acetate, n‐BuOH, and water partition, silica gel column chromatography, Sephadex LH‐20, Lobar PR‐8, and high‐performance liquid chromatography methods, and they were identified as kaempferol (I), quercetin (II), mudanpioside B (III), benzoyloxypaeoniflorin (IV), mudanpioside H (V), and pentagalloyl‐β‐D‐glucose (VI) on the basis of spectroscopic evidence. The inhibitory activities of compounds I to VI against mushroom tyrosinase were determined with IC50 values of 0.120, 0.108, 0.368, 0.453, 0.324, and 0.063 mM, respectively. The kinetic study indicated that all purified inhibitors acted competitively for the L‐dopa binding site of the enzyme, with an exception of compound VI, which acted non‐competitively.
Immune system‐driven human ageing:Inflammageing
Authors: Goto M.
Published: March 2010

Ageing, especially human ageing can be explained by the emerging concept of para‐inflammation‐driven inflammageing, which is a coinage combining inflammation and ageing. Inflam‐mageing explains that ageing, either physiological or pathological, can be driven by a low level of a variety of pro‐inflammatory cytokines and substances produced by the innate immune system. Animals must maintain homeostasis during ageing with time against incessant attack from both intrinsic and extrinsic stimuli/antigens. These potentially harmful pro‐inflammatory signals at a variety of the later stage of life may act antagonistically to their beneficial role as developmental engines for body system formation at an earlier stage of life. The idea of inflammageing is based on an antagonistic pleiotropy theory programmed during evolution. Clinical trials including caloric restriction, sirtuin activators and p38 MAPK inhibitors against premature ageing models such as metabolic syndrome, rheumatoid arthritis and Werner syndrome have been proposed.

Keywords:  ageing, inflammageing, inflammation, cytokine, evolution, antagonistic pleiotropy, development, innate immunity, metabolic syndrome, rheumatoid arthritis, Werner syndrome
Application of image processing technique for facial gloss evaluation
Authors: Fujii M. , Misaki Y. , Sasaki I.
Published: March 2010

A total absence of gloss can make the skin appear dry, while excessive gloss can contribute to an unattractive, ‘oily‐look’. Traditionally, skin gloss has been measured by the intensity of surface reflection. The disadvantage of this method is that the gloss is determined by the amount of the surface reflection in small, localized facial areas only, and does not permit evaluation of the overall optical impression of the entire face. In our work, we recognized differences in the optical contribution of facial features such as the nose and cheekbones, and surface characteristics such as pores and wrinkles. Highlights from facial features are usually regarded as normal whereas the highlight from skin texture can accentuate the presence of large pores and wrinkles, contributing to a negative impression. For an accurate evaluation of facial gloss impression, these contributions were taken into consideration in designing our system. In this study, we propose a new method of evaluating facial gloss using an image processing technique. By this method, the surface reflection image is computed from the digital color image, and separated into the facial feature and texture images for quantitative evaluation. The purpose of this work is to explore the possibility of using 2‐dimensional parameters of gross appearance in our system for more accurate and objective evaluation of gloss impression.

Keywords:  wavelet, facial gloss, simulation, oily‐look, radiant, surface reflection, facial feature image, texture image, highlights
Effect of disulfide bonds in human hair fibers on the melting behavior of their crystalline structure
Authors: Osaki A. , Okada M. , Yamamoto K. , Joko K.
Published: March 2010

In order to reveal the role of disulfide (S‐S) bonds in the fine structure of human hair fibers, especially in the complex between intermediate filaments (IFs) and intermediate filament‐associated proteins (IFAP), we investigated the relationship between melting behavior of (‐crystallites on thermal analysis and structural orientation of the fibers when S‐S bonds were oxidized using 1.5 wt% peracetic acid (PAA) solution. It was revealed that oxidative treatment of human hair fibers immersed in PAA solution made cystine residues dissociate to cysteic acids and that the (‐crystalline structure of the oxidized hair fibers was maintained despite the fission of S‐S bonds. Their thermographs in water on high pressure differential scanning calorimetry (HPD‐SC) showed that the endothermic peak assigned as the melting of (‐crystallites became separated into two endothermic peaks with progression of the treatment time, and the one started melting at a lower temperature while the other had a higher melting temperature than the melting temperature of untreated hair. Furthermore, the sum of the two endothermic peak areas decreased. Polarized light microscopic observation indicated that the orientation of IFAP still existed at the temperature at which the orientation of IFs disappeared. Therefore, these results suggested that some S‐S linkages at the interface between IFs and IFAP dissociated with the PAA treatment and that there was not only some region of IFs stabilized by S‐S bonds but also another region of IFs stabilized by hydrophobic interaction for their thermostability.

Keywords:  human hair fiber, peracetic acid, disulfide bonds, intermediate filament, (‐crystallites, thermostability, high pressure differential scanning calorimetry, polarized light microscopy, X‐ray diffraction, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy
Heterochromatin, small RNA and post‐fertilization dysgenesis in allopolyploid and interploid hybrids of Arabidopsis
Authors: Martienssen Robert A.
Published: March 2010

In many plants, including Arabidopsis, hybrids between species and subspecies encounter postfertilization barriers in which hybrid seed fail to develop, or else give rise to infertile progeny. In Arabidopsis, some of these barriers are sensitive to ploidy and to the epigenetic status of donor and recipient genomes. Recently, a role has been proposed for heterochromatin in reprogramming events that occur in reproductive cells, as well as in the embryo and endosperm after fertilization. 21 nt small interfering RNA (siRNA) from activated transposable elements accumulate in pollen, and are translocated from companion vegetative cells into the sperm, while in the maturing seed 24 nt siRNA are primarily maternal in origin. Thus maternal and paternal genomes likely contribute differing small RNA to the zygote and to the endosperm. As heterochromatic sequences also differ radically between, and within, species, small RNA sequences will diverge in hybrids. If transposable elements in the seed are not targeted by small RNA from the pollen, or vice versa, this could lead to hybrid seed failure, in a mechanism reminiscent of hybrid dysgenesis in Drosophila. Heterochromatin also plays a role in apomixis and nucleolar dominance, and may utilize a similar mechanism.
Spinal and peripheral analgesic effects of the CB2 cannabinoid receptor agonist AM1241 in two models of bone cancer‐induced pain
Authors: Curto‐Reyes V , Llames S , Hidalgo A , Menéndez L , Baamonde A
Published: March 2010

Background and purpose:  The activation of CB2 receptors induces analgesia in experimental models of chronic pain. The present experiments were designed to study whether the activation of peripheral or spinal CB2 receptors relieves thermal hyperalgesia and mechanical allodynia in two models of bone cancer pain.

Experimental approach:  NCTC 2472 osteosarcoma or B16‐F10 melanoma cells were intratibially inoculated to C3H/He and C57BL/6 mice. Thermal hyperalgesia was assessed by the unilateral hot plate test and mechanical allodynia by the von Frey test. AM1241 (CB2 receptor agonist), AM251 (CB1 receptor antagonist), SR144528 (CB2 receptor antagonist) and naloxone were used. CB2 receptor expression was measured by Western blot.

Key results:  AM1241 (0.3–10 mg·kg−1) abolished thermal hyperalgesia and mechanical allodynia in both tumour models. The antihyperalgesic effect was antagonized by subcutaneous, intrathecal or peri‐tumour administration of SR144528. In contrast, the antiallodynic effect was inhibited by systemic or intrathecal, but not peri‐tumour, injection of SR144528. The effects of AM1241 were unchanged by AM251 but were prevented by naloxone. No change in CB2 receptor expression was found in spinal cord or dorsal root ganglia.

Conclusions and implications:  Spinal CB2 receptors are involved in the antiallodynic effect induced by AM1241 in two neoplastic models while peripheral and spinal receptors participate in the antihyperalgesic effects. Both effects were mediated by endogenous opiates. The use of drugs that activate CB2 receptors could be a useful strategy to counteract bone cancer‐induced pain symptoms.
Genistein potentiates activity of the cation channel TRPC5 independently of tyrosine kinases
Authors: Wong Ching‐On , Huang Yu , Yao Xiaoqiang
Published: March 2010

Background and purpose: TRPC5 is a Ca2+‐permeable channel with multiple modes of activation. We have explored the effects of genistein, a plant‐derived isoflavone, on TRPC5 activity, and the mechanism(s) involved.

Experimental approach: Effects of genistein on TRPC5 channels were investigated in TRPC5‐over‐expressing human embryonic kidney 293 (HEK) cells and bovine aortic endothelial cells (BAECs) using fluorescent Ca2+imaging and electrophysiological techniques.

Key results: In TRPC5‐over‐expressing HEK cells, genistein stimulated TRPC5‐mediated Ca2+influx, concentration dependently (EC50= 93 µM). Genistein and lanthanum activated TRPC5 channels synergistically. Effects of genistein on TRPC5 channels were mimicked by daidzein (100 µM), a genistein analogue inactive as a tyrosine kinase inhibitor, but not by known tyrosine kinase inhibitors herbimycin (2 µM), PP2 (20 µM) and lavendustin A (10 µM). Action of genistein on TRPC5 channels was not affected by an oestrogen receptor inhibitor ICI‐182780 (50 µM) or a phospholipase C inhibitor U73122 (10 µM), suggesting genistein did not act through oestrogen receptors or phospholipase C. In BAECs, genistein (100 µM) stimulated TRPC5‐mediated Ca2+influx. In patch clamp studies, both genistein (50 µM) and daidzein (50 µM) augmented TRPC5‐mediated whole‐cell cation current in TRPC5 over‐expressing HEK cells. Genistein stimulated TRPC5 channel activity in excised inside‐out membrane patch, suggesting that its action was relatively direct and did not require cytosolic factors.

Conclusions and implications: The present study is the first to demonstrate stimulation of a TRP channel by isoflavones. Genistein is a lipophilic compound able to stimulate TRPC5 activity in TRPC5‐over‐expressing HEK cells and in native vascular endothelial cells.
Inverse agonist and neutral antagonist actions of synthetic compounds at an insect 5‐HT1receptor
Authors: Troppmann B , Balfanz S , Baumann A , Blenau W
Published: March 2010

Background and purpose: 5‐Hydroxytryptamine (5‐HT) has been shown to control and modulate many physiological and behavioural functions in insects. In this study, we report the cloning and pharmacological properties of a 5‐HT1receptor of an insect model for neurobiology, physiology and pharmacology.

Experimental approach: A cDNA encoding for thePeriplaneta americana5‐HT1receptor was amplified from brain cDNA. The receptor was stably expressed in HEK 293 cells, and the functional and pharmacological properties were determined in cAMP assays. Receptor distribution was investigated by RT‐PCR and by immunocytochemistry using an affinity‐purified polyclonal antiserum.

Key results: TheP. americana5‐HT1receptor (Pea5‐HT1) shares pronounced sequence and functional similarity with mammalian 5‐HT1receptors. Activation with 5‐HT reduced adenylyl cyclase activity in a dose‐dependent manner. Pea5‐HT1was expressed as a constitutively active receptor with methiothepin acting as a neutral antagonist, and WAY 100635 as an inverse agonist. Receptor mRNA was present in various tissues including brain, salivary glands and midgut. Receptor‐specific antibodies showed that the native protein was expressed in a glycosylated form in membrane samples of brain and salivary glands.

Conclusions and implications: This study marks the first pharmacological identification of an inverse agonist and a neutral antagonist at an insect 5‐HT1receptor. The results presented here should facilitate further analyses of 5‐HT1receptors in mediating central and peripheral effects of 5‐HT in insects.
Inhibition of calpain prevents NMDA‐induced cell death and β‐amyloid‐induced synaptic dysfunction in hippocampal slice cultures
Authors: Nimmrich V , Reymann KG , Strassburger M , Schöder UH , Gross G , Hahn A , Schoemaker H , Wicke K , Möller A
Published: March 2010

Background and purpose:  Alzheimer's disease (AD) is a multifactorial, neurodegenerative disease, which is in part caused by an impairment of synaptic function, probably mediated by oligomeric forms of amyloid‐β (Aβ). While the Aβ pathology mainly affects the physiology of neurotransmission, neuronal decline is caused by excitotoxic cell death, which is mediated by the NMDA receptor. A comprehensive therapeutic approach should address both Aβ‐induced synaptic deficits, as well as NMDA receptor‐mediated neurodegeneration, via one molecular target. This study was designed to test whether calpain could be involved in both pathological pathways, which would offer a promising avenue for new treatments.

Experimental approach:  Application of the specific, water‐soluble calpain inhibitor A‐705253 was used to inhibit calpain in hippocampal slice cultures. We examined whether inhibition of calpain would prevent Aβ‐induced deficits in neurotransmission in CA1, as well as NMDA‐induced neuronal cell death.

Key results:  A‐705253 dose‐dependently prevented excitotoxicity‐induced neurodegeneration at low nanomolar concentrations, determined by propidium iodide histochemistry. Inhibition of the NMDA receptor similarly protected from neuronal damage. Caspase staining indicated that calpain inhibition was protective by reducing apoptosis. Electrophysiological analysis revealed that inhibition of calpain by A‐705253 also fully prevented Aβ oligomer‐induced deficits in neurotransmission. The protective effect of calpain was compared to the clinically available NMDA receptor antagonist memantine, which was also effective in this model.

Conclusions and implications:  We suggest that inhibition of calpain exhibits a promising strategy to address several aspects of the pathology of AD that may go beyond the available therapeutic intervention by memantine.