bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
The Migration of Non–substantive Dyes on Fabrics and its Relation to Saturation Regain and Fibre Surface Structure
Authors: WILSON D.
Published: July 2010

The migration of non–substantive dyes on fabrics woven from a range of fibres has been studied at room temperature and the regains below which migration does not occur, i. e. the critical regains, determined. It has been found that for most fibres the critical regain is just below the imbibition value and is independent of the dye used to determine it. However, this is not so for viscose rayon, where the critical regain depends on the molecular size of the dye. This effect is caused by the presence of small continuous channels in the surface of viscose rayon fibres, which are flooded and can therefore transport dye at humidities less than saturation. The use of a non–penetrative dye–restrainer complex in determining the amount of surface water left on fibres after centrifuging is described, and the results combined with the critical regain determinations to clarify the behaviour of fibre–water systems at high humidities and to estimate “true” saturation regains.
The English Contribution to the Early History of Indigo Printing
Authors: Floud P. C.
Published: July 2010

An examination has been made of the early uses of the tepid indigo fermentation vat and its consequent use with resist techniques, culminating in the use of metal blocks for the printing of the wax resist. A description is given of the important English contributions to the early history of indigo printing, firstly by the use of “pencilling”, and secondly by the “china‐blue” technique of direct printing with indigo.
The Theory and Practice of Sodium Chlorite Bleaching
Authors: Skelly J. K.
Published: July 2010

The decomposition of sodium chlorite during the bleaching of flax has been studied at different pH values and various temperatures. Bleaching with sodium chlorite should be accompanied by maximum formation of sodium chloride and minimum formation of sodium chlorate and chlorine dioxide. The oxidising power of the bleaching agent is discussed. Whilst there is a good margin of safety with sodium chlorite under normal bleaching conditions, extreme conditions must be avoided, in order to prevent chemical damage. The effect of sodium chlorite on the impurities present in cotton and flax is discussed. The use of hot, weakly acid oxidising solutions permits shortened bleaching processes.

The main problems in practical sodium chlorite bleaching are (1) choice of a suitable method of activation of the bleaching agent, (2) selection of corrosion‐resistant materials for construction of bleaching plant, and (3) design of the equipment to be used.
The Formation of Polymers in Wool
Authors: Wolfram L. J. , Speakman J. B.
Published: July 2010

The preferential internal deposition of polymer, which is brought about by first impregnating wool with a solution of potassium persulphate in 0·1·n sulphuric acid, and then adding acrylonitrile in an atmosphere of nitrogen, is not due to the formation of free radicals by the action of persulphate on cystine cross‐linkages. Owing to the affinity of wool for persulphate ions, their concentration inside the fibres greatly exceeds that in the surrounding medium, and free radicals are thus formed preferentially inside the fibres: S2OS‐→2 SO4‐, leading to preferential internal deposition of polymer. As would be expected, therefore, polymer is readily formed in Fibrolane, but not in wool whose basic groups have been blocked by acetylation or treatment with 1‐fiuoro·2.4‐dinitrobenzene, nor in wool which has been oxidised with peracetic acid.
The Effect of Heat‐setting Treatments on the Dyeing Behaviour of Nylon Yarns and Fabrics
Authors: Peters H. W. , White T. R.
Published: July 2010

The effects of dry‐heat setting and pressure‐steam setting on the dyeing behaviour of nylon yams are considered. Measurements have been made of the influence of the temperature and duration of dry‐heat setting on the rates of dyeing of nylon 6.6 yarns and fabrics with the direct dye Chlorazol Violet R (C.I. Direct Violet 3) and the 1:2 metal‐complex dyes Irgalan Red 3G (C.I. Acid Red 220) and Irgalan Grey BL (C.I. Acid Black 58). Similar measurements were carried out on steam‐set nylon 6.6 yarns to examine the influence of presteaming conditions, steam pressure, steam quality, and variation of the steam‐setting procedure. The practical implications of the results are discussed, especially with regard to uniform setting and subsequent dyeing behaviour of nylon yarns and fabrics. The effects of dry‐heat and pressure‐steam setting are interpreted in terms of the proposed molecular mechanism of setting, which considers especially the influence of moisture on the fine structure of nylon.
Coloration of Plastics, with special reference to Polyolefins
Authors: Musgrave C.
Published: July 2010

An attempt is made to summarise the general properties of plastics colorants and to suggest which class is most likely to yield satisfactory results in particular plastics. Because of the growing importance of polyolefins, the coloration of these polymers is dealt with in greater detail. Dispersibility, stability to processing (heat stability), chalking, light fastness, and toxicity must all be taken into consideration in the selection of suitable colorants.
Effect of Dyeing and Related Processes on some Physical Characteristics of Wool
Authors: Elliott J. , Oldfield N. , Stevens C. B. , Whewell C. S.
Published: July 2010

Values are given for the percentage reduction in the work to stretch wool fibres (% RW) after various treatments similar to those likely to be encountered in preparation and dyeing. Special attention is given to the changes brought about by solvent‐assisted dyeing processes. In mild acid and alkaline treatments, low values are obtained if the temperature does not exceed 70d̀C, but above this temperature the % RW increases rapidly. Although under the conditions recommended for solvent‐assisted dyeing the % RW is small, the presence of solvent increases the % RW if fibres are treated for long times at high temperatures. This suggests that under these conditions irreversible changes are brought about by the solvent. Measurements of breaking load and extension of yarns treated under various conditions show that greater degradation is produced when yarns are treated first in an acid solution and then in alkali than when the treatments are in the reverse order. This phenomenon was not observed in successive dyeing and sodium carbonate treatments. In these cases the total reduction in yarn tensile strength was considerably less than the sum of the reductions brought about by individual treatments, except where dyeing was carried out at pH 2.
The Action of Tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)phosphonium Chloride on Wool and Hair
Authors: Bajpai L. S. , Whewell C. S. , Woodhouse J. M.
Published: July 2010

Wool treated with THPC absorbs acid and premetallised dyes more readily than does untreated wool, and addition of THPC to solutions of premetallised dyes increases the rate at which the dye is taken up by the wool. Because of their ability to reduce the ·S·S· linkages in wool, solutions of THPC are effective setting agents, even at pH 1·3. Although oxidised, iodinated, and deaminated wools cannot be set in boiling water, they take a set in THPC solutions. Wool treated with potassium cyanide, however, cannot be set either in water or in THPC solutions.
The Effect of Temperature and pH on the Adsorption of Basic Dyes by Wool
Authors: Bird C. L. , Stancey G. P.
Published: July 2010

Seven basic dyes have been applied to wool yarn in 0.5% depth at 40, 60 and 80d̀C, as well as over a range of pH values at 60d̀C. As far as wool is concerned, basic dyes appear to be rapid‐dyeing dyes of low affinity, the exhaustion of which is very sensitive to change in pH in the region pH 4–6.
The Importance of Temperature and Relative Humidity in Light‐fastness Testing: A Correction
Authors: McLaren K.
Published: July 2010

The average effective humidity in daylight testing in the United Kingdom has been found to be 45% and not 20% as reported in 1956. The Light Fastness Subcommittee will therefore be modifying their recommendations concerning the operation of fading lamps in due course.
Some Observations on the Dyeing of Worsted Pieces with Chrome Dyes
Authors: Campbell B.
Published: July 2010

The application of chrome dyes to wool pieces is described from the author's personal experience. The chrome‐mordant process is considered to be of little value. The metachrome process offers a short dyeing time, which is particularly useful to the piece dyer. Faults arising in metachrome dyeing are largely avoided by the afterchrome process, and both processes give more satisfactory results when enclosed winches are used.
Chromatographic Behaviour of some Disperse Dyes and Related Compounds
Authors: Johnson C. D. , Telesz L. A.
Published: July 2010

An attempt was made to study and to correlate chromatographic behaviour, particularl Rf values, with the chemical structure of selected disperse dyes and related compounds. Three systems of paper chromatography were considered. One of them was investigated in greater detail, and partition coefficients of selected compounds were measured. The findings indicate that in this particular system the mechanism of separation is predominantly that of partition of the dye between the stationary and the mobile phase, which is the usually accepted mechanism for paper chromatography. The paper chromatography of poly‐ and mono‐nitronaphthylamines was also studied. These results were supplemented by qualitative observations of the behaviour of these compounds on alumina.
Printing of Remazol Dyes by the Flash‐ageing Process
Authors: Zimmermann R.
Published: July 2010

After a short historical introduction the standard method for the development of the Remazol dyes by the flash‐ageing process is described. Recipes for the print paste are given, and the print paste stability and the function of the thickenings are discussed. Development of the prints is described with regard to practical bulk experience, with emphasis on the padding liquor and padding equipment, steaming time, and washing‐out properties. The effect of variations in the conditions of fixation (temperature, fixation time, squeezing effect, and composition of the padding liquor) on the practical results is discussed. A simple process for the sampling of Remazol prints to be developed by flash‐ageing is described and, finally, further processes effecting rapid fixation are summarised.
Characterising Solvent‐soluble Dyes by Optical Transmission Methods
Authors: Trotter I. F.
Published: July 2010

A method is described for the numerical characterisation of the hue of solvent‐soluble dyes. The method used is based on the absorption spectra of the dyes in the visible region and is similar to the CIE system of colour specification, but the definition of the tristimulus values has been changed to make them proportional to the dye concentration, so that the chromaticity co‐ordinates are independent of dye concentration. A soluble dye is then characterised by a pair of modified chromaticity co‐ordinates, and these co‐ordinates correlate well with a visual assessment of the appearance of the dyes when incorporated in transparent media. Under favourable conditions the use of these co‐ordinates makes possible the quantitative prediction of metameric colour matches from purely spectrophotometric data.
PUBLICATIONS SPONSORED BY THE SOCIETY'S IDENTIFICATION OF DYES COMMITTEE‐II
Authors: Giles C. H. , Ahmad M. Bashir , Dandekar S. D. , McKay R. B.
Published: July 2010

A simple scheme is described for the rapid identification of the application class of most colouring matters on the fibre. The fibre is first classified by burning and solubility tests, and these determine the appropriate series of chemical identification treatments, of which there is a maximum of 15 for cellulosic fibres, 11 for polyamides, 9 for proteins, 5 for acrylic fibres, 4 for cellulose acetate, and 3 for polyesters.
PUBLICATIONS SPONSORED BY THE SOCIETY'S FASTNESS TESTS CO‐ORDINATING COMMITTEE‐XXXI
Authors: Lindley F. W. , Harris Miss P.
Published: July 2010

The rates of fading in daylight of British dyed‐wool light‐fastness standards have been measured in an industrial and in a rural area.
Colour Measurement: Its Possibilities for the Colourist
Authors: Eills H. W.
Published: July 2010

The basic principles of colour measurement are briefly described, with particular reference to the special problems involved in the assessment of coloured surfaces. The various types of simple colour‐measuring instruments are discussed, together with their advantages and disadvantages. The main purpose of the paper is to deal with the problems involved in colour‐control in dyehouses with the aid of instruments; to emphasise the difficulties that exist; and to give some idea of the ways in which instrumental control can help the dyer. Finally, a simple method is described whereby a three‐colour dyeing recipe can be predicted to match a given pattern approximately.
An Introduction to Instrumental Colour Measurement
Authors: Sinclair R. S.
Published: July 2010

The basic principles of colour measurement are briefly outlined and the C.I.E. system of colour specification is described. The different types of colour‐measuring instruments (visual trichromatic colorimeters, spectrophotometers, and photoelectric colorimeters) are described and their relative merits discussed. Finally, the application of these instruments in absolute measurements, measurements of colour differences, and prediction of colour recipes is indicated.
The Problem of Humidity Measurement in Fading Lamps*
Authors: McLaren K.
Published: July 2010

Fundamental difficulties are involved in extending the original concept of effective humidity to fading lamps, and practical difficulties of measurement also arise. These can be overcome only by using a humidity‐sensitive specimen as a test control, and it is recommended that one be made available for operators of fading lamps.
The Gradient Method— A Contribution to Metameric Colour Formulation on the Basis of Colour‐difference Measurements
Authors: Gugerli U. , Buchner P.
Published: July 2010

An instrumental method is described for the correction of approximate starting recipes derived froma prioricalculations based on reflectance spectra or taken from pattern cards. The degree of metamerism is irrelevant to the effectiveness of the method. It is designed primarily for matching dyeings in the laboratory.

The corrections to the colorant concentrations in each successive step are based on the measurement of the colour differences of several dyeings in relation to the pattern. From the measured results, an improved dyeing recipe is set up with the aid of a technique of linear extrapolation based upon the calculation of the gradient of the colour difference in the concentration space. The rate of convergence of the method is more rapid than that of the conventional procedure of visual estimation and in many cases is more rapid than that of other existing instrumental techniques.
The Enhanced Fading of Dyes Caused by Crease‐resist Resins: A Proposed Mechanism
Authors: Ingamells W.
Published: July 2010

The deterioration in the fastness to light of reactive dyes used in conjunction with crease‐resist resins has been studied, and evidence is presented which indicates that during illumination crease‐resist resins become a source of reactive oxygen for the photochemically excited dye. The photochemically initiated formation of an organic peroxide distinguishes between compounds that accelerate fading (e.g. ethylene‐urea) and those that do not (e.g. dihydroxyethyleneurea).
Colour Discrimination
Authors: Warburton F. L.
Published: July 2010

The different types of colour‐discrimination data that have been obtained are surveyed and their relation to the derivation of colour‐difference formulae is discussed. It is shown that there are large observer differences in colour‐discrimination functions, even among normal observers. The data do, however, show conclusively that it is impossible to obtain accurate colour‐difference formulae by simple transformation of colorimetric data. In consequence, a large number of such formulae have been proposed which give different, and sometimes contradictory, assessments of relative colour differences. This does not mean that such formulae have no practical use; they would probably not give such misleading assessments as would visual assessment by a single real observer, and the universal use of any one would at least give consistent results. Finally, it is pointed out that discriminability is not the only criterion in assessing the importance of practical colour differences.
A New Process for Combining Urethane Foam with Textiles
Authors: Smith W. F.
Published: July 2010

A method of laminating flexible urethane foams to fabrics, and fabric to fabric and other flexible materials, using a transfer method to apply adhesive, is described, with notes on the development of a laboratory‐scale laminating machine. Details are given of the preparation and application of a urethane adhesive cured with an isocyanate. The effect of water‐repellent finishes on the strength of the bond between foam and fabric is discussed and suggestions are made as to the stage at which such finishes should be applied. The air permeability of various fabrics and laminates is considered and results of tests of the resistance of the laminates to washing and dry‐cleaning are described. Types of urethane foam are discussed, and tensile strength and elongation values given for two types of foam before and after treatment in dry‐cleaning solvents. The bond strengths of adhesive‐bonded and flame‐bonded laminates are compared.
An Investigation of the Reactions of Sulphamic Acid with Keratin Fibre
Authors: Elliott R. L. , Asquith R. S. , Hobson M. A.
Published: July 2010

The conditions for making wool fibre resistant to acid dyes by treatment with sulphamic acid have been investigated and it has been shown that the major chemical reactions are complex. The amino groups, disulphide bonds, and aliphatic hydroxy groups in the keratin molecule all participate in the reaction. Only a proportion of each type of group is blocked by sulphamic acid. The dye‐resistant effect is largely due to ionic repulsion of the dye by acidic groups so introduced.
Optical Studies
Authors: Morton T. H.
Published: July 2010

A theoretical relationship has been defined which relates intensity of fluorescence of a brightening agent to its concentration in a scattering substrate and to the absorption spectrum of the substrate. Optical quenching of fluorescence is an important effect which has been shown to occur with textile substrates to an extent agreeing approximately with theoretical prediction. The matching of fluorescent whites is considered, with particular reference to the avoidance of metamorism.
Metal Complexes of Alizarin IV—The Structure of the Potassium and Calcium Salts of Alizarin and of 3‐Nitroalizarin
Authors: Kiel E. G. , Heertjes P. M.
Published: July 2010

The preparation of the potassium and calcium salts of alizarin and of 3‐nitroalizarin is described. Their structures have been established and compared with those of salts of complex alizarates containing the same metals, which have been described in the preceding parts of this series. It was already known that, prior to complex formation, salt formation must take place. With the knowledge of the structure of these salts, the mechanism of complex formation following salt formation has been established. An intermediate monobasic salt, e.g. potassium 2‐alizarate or the acid calcium 2‐alizarate, is formed, from which the complexes are produced with the chelating metal ion. During dyeing with Turkey Red (calcium‐aluminium lake of alizarin), calcium alizarate is not formed, because the intermediate acid calcium salt reacts more quickly with aluminium hydroxide to form the complex than the calcium atom in the acid salt reacts with the 1‐OH group.
Continuous Preparation of Cellulosic‐ and Synthetic‐fibre Fabrics
Authors: Higginbotham R. S.
Published: July 2010

The continuous preparation of fabrics made from cellulosic and synthetic fibres is discussed in terms of mechanical and chemical operations. Special consideration is given to impregnation and washing, and some typical processes are briefly described.
Colour Fastness to Dry‐cleaning
Authors: Rhodes W. K.
Published: July 2010

Modern methods of dry‐cleaning, such as the batch and charged systems, are described. Perchloroethylene is the most commonly used solvent. The factors in dry‐cleaning processes which may influence the fastness of coloured textiles are discussed. These include the solvent, mechanical action (which, in particular, has an important bearing on the fastness of prints), and the detergent. A distinction is drawn between the fastness to dry‐cleaning of individual fabrics and the “dry‐cleanability” of made‐up garments. The latter requires that all components of a garment, including interlinings, trimmings, buttons, etc. possess adequate fastness to dry‐cleaning, and additionally to spotting with water (to remove residual stains) and to steam‐pressing.
Thermodynamics of Leather Dyeing
Authors: Coward M. P. , Nursten H. E.
Published: July 2010

The interaction of a specially purified hide powder, the preparation of which is described, and a series of pure dye acids has been investigated by determining the distribution of the colouring matters at equilibrium, usually at ten points on the titration curve. Reciprocal plots gave a mean saturation value of 1·00 milliequiv/g collagen. The following affinities (kcal/mole) were obtained at 25°C: C.I. Acid Orange 7–10·6 ± 0·3, C.I. Acid Orange 8 ‐11·0 ±0·3, C.I. Acid Red 88 –11·7 ±0·2, C.I. Acid Red 13 –16·5 ±0·6, and C.I. Acid Red 27 –21·2 ± 0·6. At 45°C the affinity of the first dye acid was –10·9 ± 0·4 kcal/mole, leading to a heat of dyeing of – 6 kcal mole and an entropy of 15 cal/deg.
Mechanisms of Reaction of Reactive Dyes with Cellulosic and other Fibres
Authors: Stamm O. A.
Published: July 2010

The basic principles and never developments in the reactions of reactive dyes with cellulosic fibres are discussed and reviewed. It is shown that the proposed reactive systems may be classified in a straight‐forward manner according to their reaction mechanisms. They can be divided into two classes, nucleophilic substitution reactions and nucleophilic addition reactions, respectively. The most important systems belonging to the first class are based on halogen‐containing nitrogen heterocycles, whereas dyes with activated double bonds, either free or masked, are of importance in the second. Apart from their intrinsic reactivity, reactive groups may also influence the substantivity of the chromophoric system. Application of bifunctional reactive compounds leads to cross‐linking of the fibres and this links dyeing with the field of chemical finishing.
Wet and Dry Boundaries on Cellulosic Textiles and their Influence on Dyes and Dyeing–I
Authors: FOX M. R.
Published: July 2010

It has long been known that brown evaporation marks are often formed during the processing of cellulosic textiles and in their domestic and industrial use. Previous studies of the formation of such marks are surveyed and theories of their origin reviewed. Many of the earlier observations have been confirmed. The phenomenon of browning in foods is also considered, since work on this subject is pertinent to any study of boundary reactions on cellulosic textiles. Practical implications of these boundary marks are reviewed in relation to three specific dyehouse problems concerning, respectively, dyeing of a cotton fabric with reactive dyes, postmercerisation of a linen fabric, and dyeing of a cotton drill fabric with vat dyes. Questions arising from the study of these problems are posed; experimental work undertaken in order to answer them will be discussed in Part II.
Alkaline Hydrolysis of Chloro–N–heterocyclic Reactive Dyes containing Ionisable Amino Groups–I
Authors: ASPLAND J. R. , JOHNSON A.
Published: July 2010

Various methods for analysing the results obtained in studies of the alkaline hydrolysis of chloro–N–heterocyclic reactive dyes containing ionisable amino groups have been compared and a treatment has been derived whereby the second–order rate constants for hydrolysis of the ionised and un–ionised forms of the dye and the basic dissociation constant of the ionisable amino group can be most easily obtained. This procedure has been applied to some previously published results (I).
Colour in Woven Design Today*
Authors: PONTING K. G.
Published: July 2010

Some of the problems involved in woven textile design today are indicated, with special reference to the use of colour. The ever–increasing importance of colour in textiles is stressed, with particular reference to the export trade. This increased emphasis on colour has brought new problems to designing and production, and some of these are indicated. Finally, suggestions are made as to the probable future developments in design.
Consumer Demands in the Paint Industry
Authors: CROWL V. T.
Published: July 2010

The requirements of the paint industry for pigments are reviewed in terms of ease of dispersion and particle–size distribution, ranges of colours of suitable stability, reproducibility of colour properties, and light fastness. The process of pigment dispersion is discussed; changes in particle–size distributions of pigments during dispersion in various types of mill have been measured by means of the Coulter Counter. A study of batch–to–batch variations in the colour properties of five pigments has been made, using successive batches of pigments, both as made and after blending to produce commercially acceptable products. Light fastness and weathering fastness are discussed in terms of existing methods of measurement.
1 Dyeing Acrilan, Cumuloft, and Spandex Yarns and Fabrics
Authors: DERRETT–SMITH D. A. , STUMP W.
Published: July 2010

After a brief discussion of modern demands for colour, attention is focused on the dyeing of Acrilan 16 acrylic fibre as loose stock, yarn, or fabric. Dyeing of blends of Acrilan with rayon or with wool is then considered and detailed procedures are given. In the section on the dyeing of nylon fibres, emphasis is concentrated on the three types of Cumuloft fibre– regular, deep–dyeing, and ultra–deep–dyeing– used in the manufacture of carpets, and it is demonstrated how three colours can be obtained on such blends in one operation. The final section deals with stretch fabrics, those made from spandex fibres being compared, in respect of dyeing methods and test methods, with those made from nylon.
Jigger Studies II– The Elementary Theory of Jigger Dyeing
Authors: MORTON T. H.
Published: July 2010

A study of available knowledge on the application of dyes to woven fabrics on the jigger has led to the formulation of a model– ‘the ideal system’– which can be used to yield predictions in close agreement with observation. The model is based on new experimental and theoretical work, and the assumptions made can be justified. The most important conclusion is that the normal jigger process, to which most successful dyeings conform, is independent of the rates of dyeing of the dyes used. The course of dye absorption can be characterised by a single parameter, the exhaustion exponent (A), which is defined in terms of experimentally determinable jigger and fabric quantities.
Jigger Studies. IV–Washing and Heating
Authors: MORTON T. H.
Published: July 2010

Jigger–process theory has been extended to a study of the kinetics of rinsing a non–substantive solute out of a fabric. The precise expressions derived have been used to check a simplified and approximate set of relationships, which have been shown by experience to be a useful working tool in the hands of a dyehouse technologist. With suitable modification the approximate theory has also been applied to the kinetics of impregnation and to the change of temperature of the fabric roll during processing. Finally, experimental observations on rinsing, analysed by the approximate theory, afford the most convenient method of determining the essential jigger parameters
Applications of Spectrophotometric Measurement in Dyeing and Finishing
Authors: BUNKALL P. R.
Published: July 2010

Presented at a Symposium on 'Modem Methods of Control in Dyeing and Finishing held by the Scottish Region in the Royal College of Science and Technology, Glasgow, on 3rd April 1964, Mr J. Bruce Jones in the chair, and (i n part) at a meeting of the Manchester Junior Section held at the College of Science and Technology, Manchester, on 25th February1965

The important applications of spectrophotonietry dependent upon Beer's Law are discussed and a number of spectrophotometers suitable for the examination of dye solutions are mentioned. Equipment that has been used with recording spectrophotometers for the investigation of dyeing behaviour is described. Whilst reflection or transmission curves from spectrophotometric measurements may be converted to tristimulus values (A, Y, Z) in the CIE system, direct measurements of A, Y, 2 by means of suitable photoelectric colorimeters, a number of which are suggested, may be made. Reference is made to colour‐difference formulae and their applications. An equation, based on the Kubelka‐Munk theory, relating reflectance, at a given wave‐ length to dye concentration on the fibre is stated. Applications, including instrumental colour‐match prediction, are discussed, and a brief survey of instrumental matching methods is presented. Probable future developments in the application of computer
Observations on the Thermal Degradation of Courtelle Acrylic Fibre III– Effect of Heat on Chemically Modified Courtelle
Authors: BELL J. W. , MULCHANDANI R. K.
Published: July 2010

When Courtelle is pretreated with oxidising agents, e. g. hydrogen peroxide, sodium hypochlorite, peracetic acid and permono–sulphuric acid, subsequent thermal discoloration takes place more rapidly. Hydrofluoroboric acid pretreatment retards discoloration, but the effect is not fast to washing, although fastness to cold water is obtainable by using a combination of ammonia and hydrofluoroboric acid.
Notes on the Construction of a Colour Atlas
Authors: BRIDGEMAN T.
Published: July 2010

Problems occurring in the preparation of a colour atlas are discussed, and illustrated by considering a specific colour atlas in which the colours of paints, which consist of three pigments in a white base, are related to the concentrations of the pigments. Direct tables. giving colour as a function of concentrations, and inverse tables, giving concentrations as functions of colour, are considered and it is shown that both types of table may be constructed with a minimum of difficulty.
Cerium–initiated Polymerisation of Some Vinyl Compounds in Polyamide Fibres
Authors: HAWORTH SUSAN , HOLKER J. R.
Published: July 2010

Several vinyl polymers have been grafted onto nylon 6. 6 with ceric salts as initiators. Some factors influencing the polymerisation of acrylic acid have been examined in detail, and evidence obtained that the products are true graft copolymers. Grafting of both 2–vinylpyridine and 4–vinylpyridine is slow from solutions in dilute sulphuric acid or nitric acid, but rapid from perchloric acid. Slow diffusion of initiator into polyamide fibres is apparently responsible for a non–uniform distribution of polymer sometimes observed. Nylon 6. 6 is oxidised slowly, but extensively, by cerie salts and the reaction is accelerated by oxygen. Analyses of the products are consistent with oxidation at methylene groups adjacent to the amide nitrogen rather than at amine end–groups. A paradox, thatdinitrophenylation renders nylon less susceptible to grafting of poly(acrylic acid), but not to oxidation by eerie salts, is tentatively explained. The surface electrical resistivity of nylon fabric is not lowered by grafted polyacrylamide or itsN–alkyl derivatives, whilst salts of poly(acrylic acid) and poly(vinylpyridines) impart only a temporary lowering. Poly(1–rnethyl–4–vinylpyridinium) perchlorate was more permanently effective. Attempts to polymerise some potentially antistatic betaine–type monomers in nylon were unsuccessful.
Polarographic Analysis of Sodium Dithionite
Authors: BROADBENT A. D. , PÉTER F.
Published: July 2010

The oxidation and decomposition of sodium dithionite and the polarography of concomitant substances have been studied to find the optimum conditions for polarographic analysis of this compound. The behaviour of sodium dithionite has been examined in detail.

A method of analysis is described which allows accurate determination of dithionite concentrations. It is particularly useful for routine analyses and the investigation of decomposed samples.
Mechanism of Dyeing with Procion Dyes III—Determination of the Affinities and Integral Diffusion Coefficients of Reactive Dyes from Alkaline Solutions
Authors: SUMNER H. H. , TAYLOR B.
Published: July 2010

A method is described for determining the affinities and the integral diffusion coefficients of reactive dyes in alkaline solution. This entails measuring these quantities for two inactive compounds of structure similar to that of the dye, followed by extrapolation of the values for the active dye assuming parallel behaviour. In the measurement of diffusion coefficients, an initial experiment was carried out in which the ‘cell constant’ of the film was determined from the diffusion of potassium chloride. From this constant the approximate effective dimensions, rather than the physical dimensions of the film, were calculated.
Visual versus Instrumental Colour Matching
Authors: GAILEY I.
Published: July 2010

The paper describes studies that have been made of both visual and instrumental colour matching and attempts to measure those factors that must be taken into account when replacing visual with instrumental colour matching. The factors in visual colour matching examined are lighting source, viewing geometry, size of specimen, age, sex and colour‐vision defects of observer, and consistency of observers. Those in instrumental colour matching are lighting source, choice of 2° or 10° Standard Observer data, effect of viewing geometry, textile structure, lustre (or specular reflection), dichroism, fluorescence, metamerism of specimen, choice of colour‐difference formulae, and uniformity of visually uniform colour space. Mechanical and electrical reliability of instruments, short‐and long‐term reproducibility, and absolute and relative accuracies of instruments are discussed.
The Interaction between some Acid Dyes and Nonylphenol—Ethylene Oxide Derivatives III‐A Discussion of Possible Modes of Interaction
Authors: CRAVEN B. R. , DATYNER A.
Published: July 2010

Measurements of cloud points and critical micelle concentrations of nonylphenol‐ethylene oxide derivatives in aqueous solutions containing acid dyes lend further support to the suggestion that interaction between the dye and surfactant molecules involves the non‐polar groups. These and additional diffusion measurements indicate that mixed micelles are formed by interaction of dye with surfactant molecules rather than with surfactant micelles.
Durable Antistatic Finishes for Nylon Fabrics II‐Regenerated‐cellulose Coatings
Authors: GARDINER D. , HOLMES F. H.
Published: July 2010

Effect of Temperature of Heating and of Conditions of Saponification on Antistatic Action and Durability of Cellulose Coatings*

In further attempts to develop a satisfactory durable antistatic finish, films of acetone‐soluble or water‐soluble cellulose acetate were applied to nylon and Terylene fabrics and saponified. The regenerated‐cellulose coatings had a moderately effective antistatic action, which was maintained even after numerous mild washes.
Water for the Dyer
Authors: MORTON T. H.
Published: July 2010

The present and estimated future use of water in England and Wales is compared with available resources. Use is overtaking easily available supply. The changes in procurement of water and disposal of effluent implied in recent legislation (setting up River Authorities and the Water Resources Board) are discussed, particularly as they are likely to affect the dyeing industry.

The quality of water for use in the dyeworks is discussed in terms of dissolved and suspended impurities; and the methods available for the control of the effects on the dyeing process of ionic solutes, residual hardness, heavy metals, and bicarbonate are summarised. The problems of disposal of dyeworks' effluent are considered in so far as they impinge on national water‐management policy. Savings in the cost of effluent treatment may be possible in an integrated textile industry where all processes, including disposal, are considered together in planning. Instances of process modification to avoid effluent‐disposal problems are cited.
Interactions between Dye Ions and Substances of High Molecular Weight‐A Polarographic Investigation
Authors: HILLSON P. J.
Published: July 2010

The height of a polarographic wave of a solution may be reduced by adding a substance of high molecular weight to it. The diminution of the diffusion current, which is due to the increased viscosity of the solution, is generally small and is relatively independent of the nature of the reducible ion. Much larger diminutions in the current are observed when the high‐molecular‐weight substrate interacts with the reducible ion, thereby decreasing the effective diffusion coefficient of the ion to that of the substrate. The magnitude of the effect depends markedly on the nature of both the reducible ion and the substrate. The relative substantivity of the reducible ion for the substrate can be deduced from the concentration of the substrate, or of the ion, needed to produce a diminution in the diffusion current. In favourable circumstances, and with reducible ions having a high substantivity for the substrate, the measured diffusion coefficient attains a limiting value, which may be equated with that of the substrate and from which the ‘average molecular weight’ of the substrate can be estimated.
Dyeing of Blends of Wool and Man‐made Fibres
Authors: CHEETHAM R. C.
Published: July 2010

The blending of wool with man‐made fibres is described generally. It is shown how the results of dyeing wool‐man‐made‐fibre blends are controlled by physical properties such as wet tensile modulus; it is also indicated how a wide range of coloured effects can be obtained with different man‐made fibres. The dyeing of blends containing wool is considered first from the point of view of the circulation of dye liquor through a mass of fibre and then of the relative dye absorption by the blend components.

The relationship between tensile modulus and behaviour in wet processing is illustrated by laboratory work on the measurement of rate of flow through a mass of loose fibre. It is concluded that the dyeing of loose fibres in blend form could be a practical proposition and in some cases could result in over‐all economies in processing.

The relative dye absorption by fibres in blends is discussed in detail and fibres are classified according to their substantivity for acid or for direct dyes. One group consists of regenerated‐protein, polyamide, and elastomeric fibres, a second group of viscose rayon fibres, and a third, larger, group of hydrophobic fibres, e.g. acetate, polyester, and acrylic fibres. The cross‐staining of wool by dyes intended for the man‐made fibre is considered, with particular reference to blends of acetate and wool; the effect of dyebath conditions, e.g. pH and temperature, is referred to and methods are outlined for minimising staining. Some three‐fibre blends are then briefly considered. Finally, possible future developments, with particular reference to blends, are discussed.
Partially Oxidised Disulphide Groups in Oxidised Wool—Reaction with Thiols
Authors: MACLAREN J. A. , KIRKPATRICK A.
Published: July 2010

When wool is partially oxidised, the disulphide groups are modified so that they react rapidly with added thiols to produce unsymmetrical disulphides. This reaction may be of value in dyeing with reactive dyes.
The Electronic Spectroscopy of Dyes
Authors: MASON S. F.
Published: July 2010

Modern theories of the light‐absorption process and their application to dye molecules are reviewed. The factors governing the intensity and the wavelength of the absorption and the emission of light by dyes are discussed, together with the various fates of electronic‐excitation energy. The spectroscopic consequences of ordered dye aggregation are examined.
Automation in the Dyehouse
Authors: BUNTING J. W.
Published: July 2010

Many of the operations in the dyehouse are carried out batchwise and a considerable increase in productivity is possible by using automatic control. On the simplest machines, there is a good return of capital investment in instrumentation and individual controllers. Solid‐state dye‐cycle controllers are discussed. Consideration is given to extending the controller to the dispensary and to problems of co‐ordinated control or automation of the dyehouse by means of a computer with the advantages of scheduling the work and accounting for the dyes.
Design of a Dyeing Process for Automation
Authors: WATERS E.
Published: July 2010

The development of the concept of a dyeing process from the early days is reviewed and the various conditions influencing the design of a dyeing process in semi‐automated systems are studied. It is concluded that temperature control will assume greater importance with the increasing use of automated equipment and that methods of pH control need to be rationalised. There is a lack of detailed information on the effects of dyebath additives, pH, depth of colour, and machine and fibre characteristics that is likely to hinder the development of simple standardised dyeing methods. The future of full automation is discussed and it is concluded that the design content of the dyeing process will be almost completely eliminated and the characteristics of the machine will be the major factor.
The Colorimetry of Whites
Authors: BLAKEY R. R.
Published: July 2010

The inadequacy of the CIE (1931) Standard Observer for the comparison of near whites is discussed, and the adaptation of the Harrison colorimeter to obviate this difficulty is described. Greater instrumental sensitivity is achieved and measurements agree well with visual observation when whites that vary in a regular manner are compared. For random variations in tone, personal preference can probably not be related to colour measurement.
Colour Measurement and Colour Tolerance in the Plastics Industry
Authors: BEST R. P.
Published: July 2010

The limited use, within the plastics industry, of colour‐difference units is discussed. The requirements and calibration of measuring instruments, with particular reference to plastics, are stated, together with details of reference and calibration standards. Identification and estimation of colorants is carried out with the Comic analogue computer handling a modified Kubelka—Munk function of the spectrophotometric reflectance curve. Although the scatter component of this function varies with the opacity of the moulding, the variation can be predicted and its effect nullified.

The correction of a first prediction for a new colour is done through the computer by means of the differences in tristimulus values, as measured by means of a colorimeter, between the predicted recipe and the required colour. An extension of this method for colour control in production is explained.

The colour tolerances achieved by instrumental control in the production of thermosetting plastics are stated in terms of the deviation (in MacAdam units) from standard. The colour gamut over which measurement may usefully be applied is prescribed. Finally, some problems associated with measurement are described, together with their solutions.
Action of Nucleophilic Reagents on Wool:II‐Action of Sodium Sulphite at pH 8·6*
Authors: MIRÓ P. , GARCÍA‐DOMÍNGUEZ J. J.
Published: July 2010

The sulphitolysis of wool at pH 8·6 has been studied at various temperatures. The lanthionine formed is not obtained by either (a) hydrolysis or (b) the salt effect of sodium sulphite. The fact that no lysinoalanine could be detected, although the lanthionine content was high, supports a mechanism entailing an Sn2 type of nucleophilic substitution. Determination of the urea‐bisulphite solubility shows indirectly that lanthionine residues play some part in crosslinking. However, the amount of insoluble keratose formed indicates that crosslinking by lysinoalanine has occurred. The importance of lysinoalanine in this connection is emphasised.
Mechanism of Reaction of Proteins with Reactive Dyes:II—Reactivity of Simple Model Compounds with Chlorotriazine Dyes
Authors: SHORE J.
Published: July 2010

The chemistry of the functional groups in wool is described and the selection of appropriate model compounds for them is discussed. The measurement of the reactivities of these model compounds and possible mechanisms of their reactions are discussed. The nucleophilic anion is the important species in the reaction of a chlorotriazine dye with the thiol group in cysteine or the hydroxyl and phenolic groups in serine, threonine and tyrosineresidues. The reaction of a chlorotriazine dye with the amino groups of lysine and the N‐terminal amino acids, with the imidazole group of histidine and with the guanidinogroup of arginine takes place mainly with the unprotonated base. Evidence in support of these mechanisms is provided by an investigation of the reactions of the dye with aqueous ammonia and anhydrous liquid ammonia.
Mechanism of Reaction of Proteins with Reactive Dyes IV—Reactivity of Wool with Chlorotriazine Dyes*
Authors: Shore J.
Published: July 2010

Chlorinated wool was dyed with a monochlorotriazine reactive dye under infinite dyebath conditions. The kinetics of dyeing conformed to a composite equation derived from the Danckwerts and Hill equations for diffusion into an infinite cylinder with surface saturation. The rate constants for the reaction between the dye and the fibre obtained from this equation agreed well with theoretical constants calculated from the reactivities of model compounds and data obtained from amino‐acid analysis. The relative contributions of the individual types of reactive site to the total reactivity of wool are discussed.
Reactive Dyes in the Coloration of Cellulosic Materials
Authors: Rattee I. D.
Published: July 2010

The development of reactive dyes for cellulosic fibres is considered, together with their organic and physical chemistry. The relation between the theoretical aspects of the chemistry of reactive dyes and their application and development problems is discussed.
Safety and Health in Industry, with Special Reference to Toxicity
Authors: Silk S. J.
Published: July 2010

The terms ‘toxicity hazard’, ‘acute toxic effect’ and ‘chronic toxic effect’ are defined. Toxic substances are classified into five groups, which are discussed. The mode of entry of toxic substances into the body is described. The threshold limit and ceiling values are the concentrations of toxic substances in the atmosphere which decide the extent of the hazard that may be present. These factors are discussed. Methods of detection are then described briefly, as are the steps that may be taken if a toxic substance must be used. Finally, the legislation governing the use of toxic substances is outlined.
New Experimental Evidence about the Dyeing of Polyester Materials with Disperse Dyes
Authors: McDowell W. , Weingarten R.
Published: July 2010

It is shown for the polyester‐water‐disperse dye system that the thermodynamic parameters obtained from sorption data can differ from those obtained from the saturation solubilities of the dye in the two phases. The difference is due to deviations from linearity in the sorption isotherms. The causes of these deviations for disperse dyes on polyester materials are discussed in some detail.