bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Water Conservation—An Alternative to Solvent Dyeing?
Authors: Lister G. H.
Published: July 2010

Textiles can be dyed using appreciably less water than is normal in conventional dyeing if satisfactory distribution of the dye‐liquor can be obtained, e.g. by padding. Padding techniques are, however, unsuitable for many types of material, because of their construction or the economics of the process. However, by converting small volumes of water into large volumes of micro‐foam in the body of the substrate, by the addition of a foaming agent to the dye‐liquor, even distribution of the liquor can be obtained in a relatively short time. Subsequent heating fixes the dye to give level well‐penetrated dyeings. The principle is also applicable to preparatory and finishing processes. Because of the efficiency of the distribution system, dyes can be applied by this technique (the Sancowad process) which, because of their properties, cannot be applied evenly in long liquors. The method has proved satisfactory on garments, half‐hose, and short lengths of fabric in bulk application with loads up to 50 kg.
Some Quantitative Tests of Intermolecular Bonding in Solution—Hydrogen Bonding*
Authors: Giles C. H. , Gallagher J. , McIntosh A. , Nakhwa S. N.
Published: July 2010

Two refractometric methods, viz. a ‘method of solute excess’ and one based on the method of continuous variations, have been used to measure the equilibrium constant and the heat, free energy, and entropy of hydrogen bonding of pairs of solutes in non‐aqueous and in aqueous solutions. The results agree with published data obtained, e.g., by infrared spectroscopy. Thus, heats of reaction between —2.4 and —3.4 kcal/mol. are obtained for phenol‐chlorobenzene bonding and ca—6 kcal/mol. for phenol‐amide bonds in non‐aqueous or aqueous media. Values appear higher in an aqueous than in a non‐polar solvent. Other systems examined were phenol‐n‐butanol, ethyl acetate‐chlorobenzene, and phenol‐acetonitrile.
Publications Sponsored by the Colour Measurement Committee—VIII
Authors: Coates E. , Day S. , Provost J. R. , Rigg B.
Published: July 2010

Methods of describing the extent of agreement between the ΔE values calculated from a colour‐difference equation and the corresponding visual estimates of colour difference are discussed. Lack of agreement will be due to a combination of errors in the visual assessments, in the measurements, and in the colour‐difference equation itself. If there were no error in the instrumental measurements, the equation error for a particular colour difference would be the difference between the calculated ΔE value and the mean visual assessment of a very large number of observers (ΔVtrue). Experimental data in the form of acceptances (%) can be converted to ΔV values directly proportional to the observed colour differences. The overall equation error for n colour differences can be calculated from Eqn 1. The Davidson and Friede data are considered to be the most satisfactory of those presently available for testing the suitability of equations for industrial colour‐tolerance work and have been used to assess the accuracy of several well‐known equations. After allowing for errors in the visual assessment and in the instrumental measurements, σ(log ΔE) for the 1964 CIE equation was 0.22. Similar values (0.16‐0.23) were found for other equations. A lower a‐value was found for a very simple empirical equation essentially based on the x, y chromaticity diagram rather than on any transformation of it. The usual transformations tend to be based on data covering the whole chromaticity gamut, whereas real surface colours cover only a fraction of the possible area. This fact, together with the knowledge that most equations are based on data corresponding to small fields of view or large colour differences, could account for the relative failure of the standard equations.
Production of Fast Dyeings on Resin‐treated Wool
Authors: Lewis D. M. , Seltzer I.
Published: July 2010

The dyeing properties of wool treated with Hercosett 57 resin to render it machine‐washable have been studied. It has been shown that this reactive highly basic resin can greatly improve the dyeability of wool. Reactive dyes have excellent properties on this wool. Differential‐dyeing and fully continuous dyeing processes, using the special properties of Hercosett‐treated wool, have been studied.
A Critical Appraisal of the Fastness‐to‐water Test as Applied to Wool
Authors: Park J. , Davis Miss W. S.
Published: July 2010

The fastness‐to‐water test, which is widely used on wool, has been examined and the various factors involved have been assessed. The standard method must be strictly followed if reproducible results are to be obtained, and there is evidence that the pH at which the test is carried out should be specified.
Print‐Batch(Cold)—A New Process for Wool
Authors: Lewis D. M. , Seltzer I.
Published: July 2010

A cold printing process has been developed from the IWS pad‐batch(cold) method for the dyeing of wool cloth. The chemical aspects of the technique are discussed with particular reference to the role of sodium bisulphite in promoting dye fixation and increasing the colour yield. The system used for the selection of reactive dyes for application to wool in the cold is described. Typical printing procedures are outlined.
Photochemical Tendering Activity of Sulphur Dyes
Authors: Shenai VA. , Rao R. K.
Published: July 2010

The photochemical tendering activity of a series of sulphur dyes on cotton cloth has been assessed in terms of (I) the changes in the physical and chemical properties of the fibre and (2) the extent of fading of the dyes and the formation of hydrogen peroxide during exposure.
Rapid Dyeing Machinery and Techniques for Polyester Yarns
Authors: Siegrist Gerald , Liddiard Alan G.
Published: July 2010

The increased need for higher production of dyed yarns, particularly those made of texturised polyester fibres, has led to many modifications in both dyeing procedures and machine construction. The machinery modifications and the reasons for them are discussed. Largely, they have been made to reduce the time required for one cycle of the total volume of dye‐liquor. However, to reap the full benefits of such modifications, several other mechanical changes are necessary. The possible effects of these changes on the economics of dyeing, as well as the procedural changes which may be necessary or advantageous, are considered. In particular, a modified procedure using a newly developed auxiliary is described. The need for more and greater accuracy of automation is stressed. The machines currently available are described briefly.
II—Evidence for the Formation of Singlet Oxygen by Phototendering Vat Dyes
Authors: GRIFFITHS JOHN , HAWKINS CHRISTOPHER
Published: July 2010

The reaction of tetraphenylcyclopentadienone (TPC) with singlet oxygen has been used as a probe for the photochemical formation of singlet oxygen by phototendering vat dyes. The dyes C.I. Vat Yellow 1, 2 and 26 and C.I. Vat Orange 9 sensitised the oxidation of TPC in phenol‐methylene chloride solution by the action of visible light. In each case the sole photo‐oxidation product was cis‐dibenzoylstilbene, indicating the intermediacy of singlet oxygen. Similar results were obtained when the dyes were applied to cotton fabric, although the relative efficiencies of the dyes as sensitisers differed from those observed in solution. The singlet‐oxygen‐sensitising efficiencies of the dyes on cotton parralleled their relative phototendering activities towards cellulose, providing evidence in favour of the singlet‐oxygen theory of phototendering. Quenching studies of the dye‐sensitised oxidation of TPC confirmed that the reaction proceeded by a singlet‐oxygen mechanism rather than a radical process.
Effect of Dye Structure on the Light Fastness of Triarylmethane Dyes on Wool
Authors: EVANS NEIL A. , STAPLETON IAN W.
Published: July 2010

The effect of structural variation on the light fastness of triarylmethane dyes on wool has been examined for a series of Malachite Green (C.I. 77420) derivatives and a series of indolyldiphenylmethane derivatives. The results indicate that the presence of N‐alkyl groups decreases the light fastness of the dyes by 1—2 points. This observation is discussed in relation to the photochemistry of Malachite Green and the correlation of the structure and light fastness of triarylmethane dyes on synthetic‐polymer fibres.
The Covalent Reactions of Primary Amino Side–chains and Disulphide Bonds in Wool Keratin
Authors: ASQUITH RAYMOND S. , CARTHEW PHILIP , HANNA H. DIARMID , OTTERBURN MICHAEL S.
Published: July 2010

The reactions with alkali of the disulphide bonds and the primary amino side–chains in wool have been investigated. Formation of dehydroalamine has been postulated and it has been conclusively identified in an alkali–treated, cystine–containing polypeptide. The mechanism of degradation of cystine in such a peptide has been further investigated and it has been shown that cysteine residues, produced from cystine during degradation, are also capable of degrading further to dehydroalanyl residues. The dehydroalanyl residues so produced are capable of reacting not only with other residues to form LAN and LAL, but also with other species present in the alkaline medium. The influence of amines on the cold setting of wool fibres with thioglycollates and on the dyeability of wool has been studied. Mechanisms are postulated to explain these effects.
The Thermal Stability of Linear Trans‐quinacridone Pigments
Authors: Jones F. , Okui N. , Patterson D.
Published: July 2010

Although linear trans‐quinacridone was first synthesized some forty years ago, it has appeared as a commercial pigment much more recently and was the first red pigment of a new chemical class for a very long time. It can be prepared with a number of different crystal structures all having the same chemical formula, but different hues. The γ‐form is the most stable. The transformations between this form and the β‐form, which can be brought about by heat and solvents, have been examined by a combination of differential thermal analysis, scanning electron microscopy and X‐ray diffraction.
The Light Fastness of Anthraquinone Disperse Dyes on Poly(ethylene terephthalate)
Authors: Allen Norman S. , Bentley Peter , McKellar John F.
Published: July 2010

The I.S.O. light‐fastness grades of thirty‐two anthraquinone disperse dyes on polyester fabric have been determined. High light fastness is exhibited by the 1‐ and 1,4‐hydroxy derivatives and 1‐ or 1,4‐sub‐stituted amino derivatives possessing N‐substituted electron‐withdrawing groups. The 1‐ and 2‐methoxyanthraquinones, 2‐hydroxyanthraquinones and all the 2‐amino derivatives examined, on the other hand, have poor light fastness. The high light stability of the 1‐hydroxy‐ and 1‐anilinoanthraquinones may be due to rapid de‐activation of their photo‐excited singlet states, while the poor light fastness of the 2‐aminoanthraquinones is probably due to their ability to abstract electrons from their environment.
Polyisocyanate Shrink‐resist Treatments for Wool: A Mechanistic Study
Authors: Guise G. Bruce , Rushforth Michael A.
Published: July 2010

The Flory‐Stockmayer approach to polymer gelation or network theory has been applied to the moisture curing of polyisocyanates used to shrink‐resist wool. This predicts that polyisocyanates of functionality f gel at an extent of reaction of(f‐l)‐1. This was confirmed experimentally and the relation was shown to be independent of the initial concentration of water and the presence of catalysts. The development of shrink‐resistance on wool treated with polyisocyanates has been related to their gel‐point and the extent of crosslinking after gelation. The properties of wool treated with some di‐ and tri‐functional polyisocyanates have been compared and the results interpreted using network theory and kinetic factors involved in the curing reaction. The optimum functionalities for use on wool of polyisocyanates derived from polypropylene oxide polyols and various di‐iso‐cyanates are discussed.
Structural Studies of Shrink‐resist Polymers for Wool: Polyisocyanates with Different Backbones
Authors: GUISE G. BRUCE , RUSHFORTH MICHAEL A.
Published: July 2010

A series of polyisocyanates was prepared from di‐isocyanates and polyols with various backbones. These were applied to wool and cured, and the shrink‐resist properties were evaluated. Polyisocyanates with polybutadiene or polycaprolactone backbones showed better resistance to oxidative degradation and conferred more effective shrink resistance than those with polyether backbones. Polyethers containing more than 10% ethylene oxide units were unsatisfactory. The effectiveness of the shrink resistance was related to the extent of urea formation during moisture curing, which was in turn related to the hydrophobic nature of the backbone.
Apparent Colour Yield in Dyed Textiles
Authors: MORTON T. H.
Published: July 2010

Various factors influence the visual efficiency of a fixed amount of colorant in a textile. The relevant optical phenomena are reviewed and treated in non‐mathematical outline. The results of calculations on a number of simple optical models give rational bases for considering the qualitative effect on colour yield of the factors: fibre size and cross‐section; incomplete penetration of colorant into the textile structure; colour‐blended textiles; packing density of yarns and fabrics; polarization and fibre orientation; internal scattering and matt fibres; mechanical and added finishes; raised and pile structures; and ring‐dyed fibres.
The Dyeing of Acrilan with Basic Dyes in the Presence of Benzyl Alcohol*
Authors: GUR‐ARIEH Z. , INGAMELLS W. , PETERS R. H.
Published: July 2010

The dyeing of Acrilan with C.I. Basic Green 4 from water containing benzyl alcohol and benzyl alcohol containing water has been examined. Benzyl alcohol in water acts as a plasticizing agent for the fibre. The plasticizing action of small quantities of water in benzyl alcohol has also been detected and in both systems the rate of diffusion of dye into the fibre is related to the plasticizing action. The equilibrium absorption is a function of the difference between the dyeing temperature (T) and the glass transition temperature (Tg) of the fibre. The differences in the behaviour of the dye in the aqueous and benzyl alcohol dyebaths are related to the degree of dissociation of the dye and the mechanical properties of the fibres.
The Swelling and Plasticization of Poly(ethylene terephthalate) during Carrier Dyeing
Authors: INGAMELLS W. , YABANI A.
Published: July 2010

A study has been made of the effects of a variety of compounds on undrawn poly(ethylene terephthalate) filaments. The results have been compared with those of a similar investigation using acrylic fibres [6]. From the comparison, further insight into the relative importance of non‐polar and other intermolecular forces in carrier‐dyeing has been gained. The significance of fibre swelling in relation to the dyeing properties of poly(ethylene terephthalate) fibres is also considered.
Self‐coloured Polymers based on Anthraquinone Residues
Authors: ASQUITH RAYMOND S. , BLAIR HAL S. , CRANGLE ANDREW A. , RIORDAN ERIC
Published: July 2010

The numerous studies of the formation of self‐coloured polymers, based on anthraquinone residues, is summarized. In these polymers, the chromophoric groups are an integral part of the polymer. The possible structural types of these polymers are discussed in relation to the methods used to incorporate the anthraquinone‐based chromophoric groups in the polymer chains. The possibility of using such polymers as self‐coloured plastics or fibres is considered but this possibility is regarded as of lesser importance compared with the use of such polymers for other purposes, such as redox catalysts, and heat resistant pigments, plastics and fibres.
The Effect of Aftertreatments on the Fixation Ratio and Total Extent of Reaction of a Difluorochloropyrimidine Dye on Wool
Authors: FINNIMORE E. , MEYER U. , ZOLLINGER H.
Published: July 2010

47th Communication on Investigations in Textile Chemistry. For 46th Communication see reference [9].

The difference between fixation ratio and extent of reaction in reactive dyeing of wool is explained. Methods of aftertreatment of deep colours have been examined as a means of improving both these values. Increases in the extent of reaction are favoured by high levels of exhaustion as well as by prolonging the time at the dyeing pH. The fixation ratio is improved by desorbing the unfixed dye, and this has been done by raising the pH at the end of the dyeing. The pH at the temperature of the aftertreatment was found to have a critical effect on the efficiency of the process, the best results being obtained with buffer treatments, whereas with the usual ammonia aftertreatment, in which the pH was found to decrease with time, the results were much less effective. On Hercosett 57‐treated wool the effect was bigger than on untreated wool.
Some Effects of the Contamination of Hercosett Solutions by Sodium Sulphite during Commercial Chlorine‐Hercosett Shrinkproofing Processes for Wool
Authors: COCKETT K.R.F. , JACKSON J. , LEWIS J.
Published: July 2010

During the commercial operation of chlorine‐Hercosett processes, some contamination of the resin solution by sodium sulphite takes place. The progressive reaction between Hercosett 57 and sodium sulphite can cause differential‐dyeing effects and inadequate shrink‐proofing of treated wool. These effects are attributable to a conversion of the cationic sites in the resin to anionic sites. Methods of preventing the development of these problems are described, as are techniques for ameliorating these effects on inadequately‐processed wool.
Optimization of the Conventional Bleaching of Wool with Hydrogen Peroxide
Authors: Cegarra J. , Gacen J. , Caro M.
Published: July 2010

The individual and combined influence on the bleaching of wool of the concentration of hydrogen peroxide, temperature and time of treatment have been studied, using a rotatable central design of experiments in which the values of the above variables covered the values used in industry. Mathematical treatment of the values of the optical, chemical and mechanical parameters has enabled equations to be derived, from which the value of any parameter can be computed when the values of the variables are within the range of the plan of experiments, resulting in a good agreement being obtained between experimental and calculated values. Use of these equations facilitates optimization of the process of wool bleaching, and bleaching conditions leading to the whitest wool have been suggested for an allowable chemical degradation (alkali solubilities of 25%and 30%). More severe conditions of bleaching do not necessarily produce a whiter wool, but cause greater chemical and mechanical degradation of the fibre. An excellent linear correlation has been found between the chemical parameters modified by the bleaching operation and between these and the wet tensile strength of the fibre.
Bonding of Sequestering Groups to Cellulosic Fibres.
Authors: Laine Jaakko E. , Sjostrom Eero
Published: July 2010

The stability of PAR‐s‐triazine* covalently attached to cellulose has been studied under alkaline and acidic conditions. Results indicate that the rate of hydrolysis is slower in alkaline than in acidic media. This difference is explained in terms of ketone formation via dissipation of residual chlorine in the s‐triazinyl ring. In the case of alkaline hydrolysis it is proposed that the observed two‐phase mechanism depends on structurally different PAR‐s‐triazine entities, whereas the glycosidically‐bonded s‐triazine moieties seem to be responsible for the rapid hydrolysis under acidic conditions. Finally, the stabilizing effect of the substitution of remaining chlorines in PAR‐s‐triazine with various nucleophiles is demonstrated.
Determination of Fluorescent Whiteness: Experience in Using Linear Whiteness Formulae
Authors: Levene R. , Knoll A.
Published: July 2010

Experience has been obtained in the use of two linear whiteness formulae on a varied set of near‐white cloth samples. Visual assessments of whiteness were made with the aid of the Ciba‐Geigy Plastic White Scale plates. These were compared with predicted whiteness values based on the tristimuhis total radiance factors (reflectance plus fluorescent emission) measured with a photometer fitted with illuminant D60. Good agreement was obtained when the parameters of the prediction formulae were determined by regression analysis, using measurements made on the plates of the White Scale with the same photometer. The closeness of agreement for the cloth samples was examined as a function of hue preference angle. It was found that the formula based on chromaticity coordinates gave superior results to the formula using the radiance factors directly. The practical application of the formula based on chromaticity coordinates is described.
The Extraction of Chrome Mordant Dyes from Wool and their Chromatographic Identification
Authors: McDOUGALL R. H. , SOLANKI R. K.
Published: July 2010

A new method for the extraction of chrome mordant dyes from wool has been investigated. The method, which involves the use of EDTA in aqueous dimethylformamide, extracts sufficient dye for use in chromatographic identification. The applicability of the method has been studied with eleven selected chrome mordant dyes.
The Calculation of Dyeing Processes: Cationic Dye Mixture on Acrylic Fibre
Authors: WERTHEMANN DIETRICH P.
Published: July 2010

A method for calculating a dyeing process applying combinations of dyes to Orion 75 is given. The model used is somewhat refined compared to the traditional one by considering two differently behaving types of sites at the fibre surface. This refinement is verified by experiment. A computation of the dyeing process uses parameters describing the dyes involved as well as the fibre. Their definition as well as their experimental determination is revealed. The calculations predicting the combination–dyeing processes using the said parameters are in agreement with the corresponding experiments. The mathematical basis for the computations is explained.
Surface Barrier Effects in Wool Dyeing Part I ‐ The Location of the Surface Barrier
Authors: HAMPTON G. M. , RATTEE I. D.
Published: July 2010

The properties of the surface layer on wool fibres which limits the rate of dye uptake have been examined. The removal of the barrier layer by mechanical means and its degradation by surface reduction using tri–butyl phosphine have been studied using the rate of dyeing as a parameter. The chemical properties of the barrier layer suggest that it is a cystine–rich component of the cuticle layer system, either the exocuticle or its ‘a’ layer sub‐system.
Azides Part II — Mechanism of Fixation of Sulphonazido Dyes on Polyester Fibre*
Authors: AYYANGAR N.R. , PHATAK M.V. , TILAK B.D.
Published: July 2010

Thermofixation of the reactive disperse azo dye, 2‐hydroxy‐5‐methyl‐4′‐sulphonazidoazobenzene (I) containing a sulphonazido group, with polyester fibre leads to chemical bonding of the generated sulphonylnitrene with the fibre substrate. The nitrene interacts with the benzene ring of the polyester substrate through the formation of a sulphonamido link as well as through insertion followed by ring expansion of the adduct to yield the relevant N‐sulphonyl‐azepine. The mechanism is confirmed by means of a suitable model experiment of interaction of I with dimethyl terephthalate.
Model Calculations on Levelness in Package Dyeing
Authors: HOFFMANN F. , MUELLER P. F.
Published: July 2010

A simple mathematical model that includes (a) uniform liquor flow through a package and (b) Fickian diffusion of a dye within the fibres is described. The distribution of a dye within the package and the degree of levelness are calculated for constant dyeing conditions (e. g., constant temperature) and a dye with a linear sorption isotherm. The effect on levelness of the dyeing time, rate of liquor flow, liquor–to–goods ratio, package data, diffusion coefficient and final dyebath exhaustion are discussed. Using certain assumptions the levelling time is determined by two parameters only: a diffusion velocity vD and a streaming parameter s.
The Preparation of the Pure Cis–isomers of Four Fluorescent Whitening Agents of the Sulphonated Stilbene Type
Authors: WELLER W. T.
Published: July 2010

Photoisomerization of four purified stilbene–derived fluorescent whitening agents in methanol solution, followed by removal of residual trans–isomer, has afforded the pure cis–isomers in good yield.

Measurement of the u. v. absorption characteristics of the pure isomers has yielded data that now permit the determination, for any single FWA studied, of both the total concentration of FWA in solution and of the cis. trans isomer ratio.
Application of Chrome Dyes to Wool by the Afterchrome Process
Authors: MEIER GERHARD
Published: July 2010

The fundamentals of and practical experience with a new method of applying chrome dyes to wool by the after–chrome process are discussed. The method is based on the stoichiometric relation between chromium and chrome dyes.

By using special temperature control and an electrolyte, potassium dichromate is utilized more efficiently and effluent requirements can be met in most cases. The quality of the wool is improved compared to wool dyed by conventional afterchrome processes.
Studies of the Glass Transition Temperature of Polyester Fibre by a Dyeing Method
Authors: GULRAJANI M. L. , SAXENA R. K.
Published: July 2010

The effect that the dye has on the determination of the glass transition temperature by a dyeing method is investigated. It is seen that the glass transition temperature is influenced by the structure of the dye, i. e. its size, shape and its interaction with thesubstrate.

From the studies carried out on various systems, a correlation between glass transition temperature and dyeing transition temperature has been postulated.
The Determination of Free Benzidine in Dyes
Authors: Jones F. , Patterson D. , Srinivasan D.
Published: July 2010

Methods for the quantitative determination of benzidine have been assessed and a convenient method for the analysis of trace amounts of this compound in dyes has been developed. The method of analysis has been applied to some forty dyes all of which require the use of benzidine in their manufacture. Results are discussed in terms of possible future regulations.
The Presentation of Packages for Dyeing
Authors: Mason J. S. , Park J. , Thompson T. M. , Shore J.
Published: July 2010

The methods used for preparing packages for dyeing are reviewed and the various advantages are discussed. The need to eliminate winding processes to reduce processing costs is highlighted and various processing developments are discussed. Experimental work compares the levelness obtained by using three different packaging methods on spun yarn and the costs of the various processing routes are compared.
The Dyeing of Wool–Polyester Blends with Reactive Disperse Dyes
Authors: Stapleton Ian W. , Waters Peter J.
Published: July 2010

The dyeing behaviour of the Procinyl (ICI) range of reactive disperse dyes on wool–polyester blends is described. Two of the dyes were found to dye both components of such blends to approximately the same depth, whilst the remaining three dyes in the range strongly favoured the wool component.
Contribution of Swelling, Dye Affinity, Glass Transition Temperature and Other Factors to the Experimental Diffusion Coefficient of a Dye into Poly (ethylene terephthalate) from Various Solvents
Authors: Hori Teruo , Sato Yasunori , Shimizu Toru
Published: July 2010

In order to clarify the meaning of dye diffusion into fibres a new diffusion model is introduced which is a combination of the pore model and the free volume model. Using this model, it is shown that the diffusion coefficient obtained experimentally can be described as a function of dye affinity, swelling of the fibre, glass transition temperature and other factors. The validity of this model is confirmed by comparing the diffusion coefficients obtained experimentally in various systems with those calculated using this model.
Formation of Singlet Oxygen by Photo–excitation of Substituted Aromatic Azo Compounds in Oxygenated Solution
Authors: Gruen Henry , Steffen Helene , Schulte–Frohlinde Dietrich
Published: July 2010

Irradiation into the visible adsorption band of four trans–4–dialkylamino–4′‐nitroazobenzenes not subject to azo–hydra–zone tautomerism leads to conversion of triplet oxygen to singlet oxygen. Evidence for formation of singlet oxygen is provided by characterization of cis–dibenzoylstilbene as the predominant oxidation product of tetraphenylcyclopenta–dienone and by inhibition of the oxidation by DABCO and other singlet oxygen quenchers. Addition of the same concentration of 2, 6–di–t–butyl–phenolhas essentially no effect. The rates of disappearance of the singlet oxygen scavengers bilirubin and 1, 3–diphenylisobenzofuran are also reduced in the presence of DABCO. Quantum yields of singlet oxygen formation between 0. 03–2 × W‐3 were obtained for the compounds examined in di–n–butylterephthalate. The singlet oxygen yield parallels the triplet yield obtained from the same azo compounds by laser flash photolysis.
Low‐temperature Dyeing of Wool in the Presence of Urea and Related Compounds
Authors: Burdett B C , Galek J A
Published: July 2010

An investigation has been carried out into the effect of urea, thiourea and related compounds on the rate of dyeing of C. I. Acid Red 18 on wool. At the same time, the object was also to find a more efficient accelerant than urea.

Of the 44 compounds originally used in a preliminary investigation, only eleven were retained for detailed study and of these only five were more effective than urea. Disaggregation and solvatochromism of C. I. Acid Red 18 occurred in the presence of the selected compounds and, although many of the latter were preferentially adsorbed by wool, negligible fibre damage occurred. Increasing the ionic strength of the solutions depressed the dyeing rate.

Several mixtures of urea and related compounds gave similar effects to that produced by urea alone, both by an exhaust technique and a pad—batch technique, and it is proposed that they be used in the commercial cold pad‐batch process.
Proceedings
Authors: Klein Rudolf
Published: July 2010

Sulphur dyes are the preferred dyes for dyeing corduroy, work wear and polyester‐cellulosic fibre blend fabrics. The most important process variables are described briefly. Effluent problems arise when using sulphides as reducing agents and when oxidizing with dichromate. Instead of sulphide it is possible to use sodium hydrosulphite (sodium dithionite), mercaptoethanol, or glucose. On the other hand, sulphides can be eliminated very easily from the effluent by aeration or precipitation. Dichromate can be replaced by several products. The continuous determination of hydrogen peroxide, and the possibility of combining oxidizing and alkyla‐tion treatments are considered.
Damage to Wool during Stock‐dyeing.
Authors: Holmes‐Brown R L , Carnaby G A
Published: July 2010

Many of the wool fibres packed into a loose‐stock dyeing machine are inevitably bent to a greater or lesser extent, and become set in the bent state during dyeing. This results in damage to the fibres at the point of bending so that they are liable to break during subsequent processing. Excessive liquor pressure has been shown to increase the bending and so the degree of damage. Dyeings at high temperature also tend to increase the damage.
The Dyeing of Wool with Reactive Dyes
Authors: Lewis D M
Published: July 2010

Reactive dyes have now been available for 25 years and have proved to impart important technological advantages to the wool dyer. This explanatory paper outlines the initial development of these dyes, emphasizing the special problems encountered in applying them to wool, summarizes present developments and future trends, critically appraises the performance of reactive dyes for wool vis‐à‐vis alternative dyes, and considers the large amount of research work carried out to pinpoint the particular amino acid site(s) involved in the reaction of wool with reactive dyes.
Peroxybenzoate Anions as Low‐temperature Bleaches ‐ Substituent Effects
Authors: Davies D Martin , Jones Peter
Published: July 2010

The bleaching of the food dye amaranth (trisodium 1‐(4‐sulpho‐1‐naphthylazo)‐2‐naphthol‐3, 6‐disulphonate) by peroxybenzoic acids proceeds by two distinct pathways. In solutions of pH <9 the reaction takes place partly via a metal‐ion‐catalysed homolytic fission of the peroxyacid. The metal‐ion‐catalysed pathway is suppressed by adding EOT A to or increasing the pH of the reaction medium. Brönsted‐type plots for the reaction of amaranth and erythrosine (disodium 2, 4, 5, 7‐tetraiodofluoresceinj with meta and para substituted peroxybenzoic acids in the presence of EDTA yield slopes of‐0.19±0.16 and 0.09±0.06 respectively. The mechanistic implications of these results and their relevance to the commercial use of peroxybenzoic acids as bleaches are discussed.
The Affinity of Basic Dyes for Leacril 16 Acrylic Fibre
Authors: Alberti Guido , Cerniani Ado , De Giorgi M Rita
Published: July 2010

The dyeing affinity of some thiazole and benzothiazole basic azo dyes for Leacril 16 acrylic fibre was measured using Langmuir isotherms. Results show a close dependence of dye structure on affinity.
Vapour Pressures and Heats of Sublimation of Some Coupling Components
Authors: Nishida K. , Ando Y. , Betsusho M. , Koukitsu M.
Published: July 2010

The vapour pressure, latent heat of sublimation and associated entropy changes of Naphthol AS derivatives have been obtained using the transpiration method. These compounds have vapour pressures of between 0.000885 and 0.0111 ton at 180°C. Heat of sublimation is discussed in terms of molecular structure.
Commercial Exploitation of Package Dyeing
Authors: Park J
Published: July 2010

Jim Park has been in the textile industry for 26 years, mainly in the dyeing and finishing sector. Although associated with most forms of dyeing, apart from a five‐year period he has always been connected with yarn dyeing and is deeply committed to package dyeing together with the use of automation and colour physics.

Positions held have included chemist technical manager and company director. He is currently running his own consulting business.

He is an active Society member (Chairman, Resources Committee and member of Publications Committee) and a Silver Medallist.

The place of package dyeing in the manufacturing sequence is indicated together with the types of yarn usually package dyed. Various factors in favour of and against package dyeing are discussed and the costs of the process are compared with those of other dyeing methods. Several means of improving the financial competitiveness of package dyeing are discussed and areas for future expansion are identified. Finally, some thoughts regarding the package dyehouse of the future are given.
The Manufacture of Viscose Rayon Fibres
Authors: Aitken R
Published: July 2010

Robert Aitken is a principal research scientist in Courtaulds Research Division. He studied chemistry at the University of St. Andrews and graduated in 1964, when he joined the Development Fibres and Viscose Laboratory at Coventry. He has taken part in the development of a variety of viscose fibre types, including crimped, polynosic and modal fibres. Other posts have included pilot‐plant manager, managing a cigarette factory for tobacco substitute, and leading the research and development for Courtaulds' elastomeric fibre plant. He is currently working on the development of new end uses for viscose including enhanced dyeing, flame‐resistant products and non‐wovens.

Although it is one of the earliest of man‐made fibres, viscose rayon remains of great interest. This is because it is made from a renewable resource, and because the fibre‐making process is so adaptable. Novel types have been made, and continue to be made, to meet the changing demands of the textile market. Recent developments include the new class of high‐strength viscose fibres with tenacities of 25 to 28 cN/tex, the super‐inflated cellulosic SI fibre which has a very high absorbency without containing any additives, the hollow circular cross‐section fibre Viloft for blending with cotton or polyester, and a new generation of enhanced‐dyeing fibres.
Bleaching of Wool with Hydrogen Peroxide and a Silicate Stabiliser
Authors: Palin M J , Teasdale D C , Benisek L
Published: July 2010

A modified factorial experimental design, a central composite rotatable plan, has been applied to a silicate—hydrogen peroxide system to determine the optimum bleaching conditions. In addition to high whiteness, the optimisation was limited by constraints on time and damage, as measured by alkali solubility. The predicted optimum obtained was verified by experiment and gave at least a 60% saving in time compared with phosphate‐peroxide systems in commercial use.
Development, Optimisation and Economics of a Single–stage Preparatory Process
Authors: Gulrajani M L , Sukumar N
Published: July 2010

A single–stage preparatory process for acrylic–sized and starch–sized cambric fabrics, based on a self–emulsifiable solvent–assisted system using hydrogen peroxide, has been investigated using a second–order response–surface design. It has been observed that it is easier and cheaper to bleach an acrylic–sized fabric. The single–stage preparatory process results in 5–15% saving in energy and proves to be more economical than the conventional fabric preparation process.
Increased Profitability by the Efficient Use of Machinery and Materials
Authors: Pearson D J
Published: July 2010

The Society's Resources Committee is concerned with the efficient use of all resources. This paper deals with the area of dye store management and indicates how efficiency can be improved and significant savings made by the use of suitable weighing and measuring equipment. It is shown that such equipment, as well as giving considerable improvements in processing, gives relatively short pay‐back periods.
The Modification of Wool with Reactive Hydrophobes
Authors: Lewis D M , Pailthorpe M T
Published: July 2010

A series of seven reactive hydrophobic compounds was synthesised and authenticated. Aqueous dispersions of these compounds were prepared by milling and applied to wool by pad–dry–steam and exhaustion procedures. The extent of fixation achieved was assessed by determining the weight gain of the treated wools. Treated wool fabric was transfer printed with disperse dye papers and the disperse dye affinity was assessed both by dye yield (K/S) measurements and by determining the
The Solubility and Solubilisation of Disperse Dyes
Authors: Jones F.
Published: July 2010

The purpose of this paper is to explain, as simply as possible, the mode of action of surface–active agents in improving the solubility of disperse dyes in dispersions. It does not describe their stabilising effect on, for example, crystal growth, morphology or aggregation of dye particles, although some reference is made to this topic.
Modification to the JPC79 Colour–difference Formula
Authors: Clarke F J J , McDonald R , Rigg B
Published: July 2010

The JPC79 colour–difference formula has represented a substantial improvement over earlier formulae and is being applied successfully in industrial shade passing. Modifications are described which overcome certain problems and, to some extent, simplify the formula. With available experimental data, the modified version performed even better than the original formula. Perceptibility data are fitted better by increasing the JPC79 lightness weighting by a factor of two. The new formula, designated CMC (: c), has the best overall performance of any formula so far published.
The Analysis of Textile Mixtures Using Fourier Transform Infra–red Photoacoustic Spectroscopy
Authors: Davidson R Stephen , Fraser Graham V
Published: July 2010

Fourier transform infra–red photoacoustic spectroscopy can be used to obtain high–quality infra–red spectra of textile samples with the minimum of sample preparation. For a wool/polyester blend, the spectrum of the polyester was obtained by subtracting the spectrum of wool from that of the mixture. The resulting spectrum closely resembles that of the polyester. For a wool/nylon blend, the spectrum of the mixture obtained by adding the spectrum of wool to that of nylon was shown to be very similar to that of the actual wool/nylon blend. By quantifying the addition and subtraction processes it should be possible to analyse such binary mixtures quantitatively. A three–component blend of wool, nylon and viscose rayon was also examined and the spectral subtraction process was found to be of value in identifying the components.
Chemical Treatments Designed to Modify the Affinity of Wool for Dyes
Authors: Bell V A , Lewis D M , Pailthorpe M T
Published: July 2010

The dyeing properties of wool have been modified by treating it with a series of reactive hydrophobic, anionic and cationic compounds. The extent of fixation of these reactive compounds to the wool was determined as dry basis weight gains which reached 70–13% wt/wt for many of the compounds examined.

The dyeing properties of the modified wools were examined with a series of anionic, cationic and reactive dyes. The hydrophobic mechanism of dyeing appears to predominate over the ionic mechanism, except for the highly ionised dyes examined. The monosulphonated dye C. I. Acid Red 88 was more strongly absorbed by hydrophobic wool (benzoylated or ANEX–treated wool) and had an improved wash fastness rating on the treated wool. C. I. Reactive Red 116 is effectively resisted by the reactive hydrophobic and anionic treatments since these compounds eliminate the nucleophilic sites normally available for reaction with reactive dyes.
An Improved Method for the Measurement of Donnan Potentials in Textile Polymer–Aqueous Electrolyte Solution Systems
Authors: Iyer S R Sivaraja , Dhavale R G
Published: July 2010

An improved method for measuring Donnan potentials in textile polymer–aqueous electrolyte solution systems has been developed. Contrary to previous methods, the measured potentials remain constant over a period of hours and can be applied to textile polymers both in film form and as fibre bundles. The method can also be used as a new technique for studying adsorption and desorption kinetics for ionic dye–textile polymer systems.
The Changing Coloration Industry — The Response of the Technologist
Authors: Zollinger Heinrich
Published: July 2010

Keynote address presented at the 13th Congress of the International Federation of Associations of Textile Chemists and Colourists in London on 20 September 1984.
Differential Solubility of Acrylic Fibres as a Function of Stabilisation Process Variables
Authors: Gacén J , Maillo J , Pepió M , Baixauli J J
Published: July 2010

Acrylic tow, partially relaxed during the first stage of a conventional manufacturing process, was fully relaxed, or stabilised, in steaming equipment under different conditions of time and temperature based on a central rotatable design of experiments. The shrinkage of the samples thus obtained was measured and differential solubility curves in a mixture of dimethy/formamide and water were obtained. From these results simple functional relationships between shrinkage and solubility on the one hand, and the process variables, temperature and time, have been obtained. Response surfaces showing an excellent fit have also been obtained. A very good negative linear correlation between the logarithm of shrinkage undergone during steaming and the logarithm of differential solubility, and also between the logarithms of overall shrinkage and differential solubility have been found. The differential solubility test has a very high sensitivity to relaxation process variables and, as shown by the correlations obtained, it is highly recommendable as a relaxation control measure in production plant.
Quinone‐Quinoneimine Tautomerism of 5, 8‐Bis(donor) substituted 1, 4‐Naphthoquinonoid Dyes
Authors: Takagi Koichi , Matsuoka Masaru , Kubo Yuji , Kitao Teijiro
Published: July 2010

Quinone‐quinoneimine tautomerism of 5, 8‐bis(donor) substituted 1, 4‐naphthoquinones have been investigated by means of their visible absorption spectra. Tautomerism was found to be influenced mainly by the nature of the substituents and the polarity of the solvents; the equilibrium shifted to the quinone form in the more polar solvents. The quinone tautomer absorbed visible light at much longer wavelengths (about 160–180 nm) than did the quinoneimine tautomer. Isosbestic points of the tautomerism were observed. The calculated absorption maximum of each tautomer, obtained by means of the PPP MO method, was correlated with the observed values to predict the principal tautomer in solution.
Economic Preparation of Woven Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Dickinson Kenneth , Hickman William S
Published: July 2010

Presented to the Society's Manchester Region on 21 March 1985

Developments in the use of hydrogen peroxide allow major cost savings in bleaching cotton fabrics without loss of preparation quality. These developments make maximum use of the desizing and bleaching properties of hydrogen peroxide. Higher than normal alkali concentrations are used and this requires effective stabilisers. The paper considers important factors in developing more economic preparation by cold pad bleaching or pad‐steam processing, requiring only one pass through a steamer.
Steric and Electronic Effects in Basic Dyes. VII — Synthesis and Electronic Absorption Spectra of Some Triphenylmethane Dyes Derived from 4‐Diethylamino‐4′‐dimethylaminobenzophenone
Authors: Hallas Geoffrey , Mitchell Meta M
Published: July 2010

A comprehensive series of triphenylmethane dyes has been prepared from 4‐diethylamino‐4′‐dimethylaminobenzophenone and the various electronic absorption spectra have been determined. The wavelength shifts observed are generally intermediate between those shown by analogous derivatives of Malachite Green and Brilliant Green, in accordance with the electronic symmetry of these structurally unsymmetrical dyes. A useful general route to unsymmetrically substituted diary I ketones has been developed which involves the formation, and subsequent oxidation, of the corresponding hydro/ by the reaction between an aryl‐lithium derivative and a substituted benzaldehyde.
Vapour Pressures and Heats of Sublimation of Some Vat Dyes
Authors: Nishida K , Ando Y , Sunagawa S , Ogihara A , Tanaka I , Koukitsu A
Published: July 2010

The vapour pressures, latent heats of sublimation and associated entropy changes of some vat dyes have been determined by the transpiration method. These compounds have vapour pressures of 0.001–0.577 ton over the temperature range 246–361°C. The heats of sublimation are discussed in terms of the dyes' molecular structure. This article presents evidence for the existence of a specific linear relationship between the enthalpy change and the entropy change in sublimation.