bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Yarn Spun by Different Methods from Blends of Wool/Cotton and Wool/Polyester
Authors: Louis Gain L. , Bel Patricia D.
Published: March 2008

The scoured wool stock used in this study was mechanically cleaned and shortened by a carding cleaner machine developed at the SRRC. Wool/cotton and wool/polyester blends of 50/50 ratio were successfully processed into different types of spun yarns. The spinning methods were ring, ring yam with nylon filament wrap, ring yam with nylon filament core, Sirospun, Sirospun with nylon filament wrap, Sirospun with nylon filament core, Coverspun, Coverspun with nylon core, worsted, and friction (DREF-3) spinning. Mechanical processing procedures of the blends are outlined and discussed. Pertinent yam properties are also presented and compared. We conclude that the Coverspun technique produces the highest quality yarn, followed by ring, worsted, and friction spinning.
Migration of Crosslinking Reagents in Cotton/Terene Blended Fabric During Resin Finishing
Authors: Pandey S.N. , Raje C.R.
Published: March 2008

The migration of a crosslinking reagent during resin finishing of cotton/terene blended fabric is reported using different softeners (a non-ionic polyethylene emulsion and an anionic sulfonated compound) and in the absence of a softener. The cross linking treatment was done with dimethyloldihydroxy-ethyleneurea. Resin finished fabrics were dried for varying periods (0-60 minutes) at 70°C and were analyzed for moisture content and nitrogen content, from which the percent of water evaporation and of agent migration could be calculated. The data analysis showed an increase in the rate of water evaporation in the beginning, followed by a gradual decrease thereafter, both with and without softeners. The percent of agent migration increased gradually during the initial drying period for the fabric treated with a polyethylene emulsion softener or an anionic sulfonated compound softener or without any softener, followed by a gradual decrease thereafter in the first two cases. The samples treated without softeners exhibited higher agent migration than those treated with softeners. The re lationship between the percent of water evaporation and the agent migration is dis cussed.
Effect of Area of Growth on Condensed Tannins in Cotton Bracts
Authors: Rousselle Marie-Alice
Published: March 2008

Bracts of cotton plants ( Gossypium hirsutum) of three varieties grown in three states were extracted with 70% acetone. The condensed tannins in the extracts and in extracted and unextracted bracts were hydrolyzed in butanolic HCl, and the types and levels of anthocyanidins produced were compared by TLC and spectroscopy. The area of growth had more of an effect than did the variety on levels of anthocyanidins obtained.
Extending Applicable Ranges of Regression Equations for Yarn Strength Forecasting
Authors: Smith Brent , Waters Bill
Published: March 2008

Using recently developed technology for rapid instrument testing of cotton fiber, it is possible to characterize large numbers of bales rapidly and accurately. Many com mercial spinners of cotton and cotton blend yams have used such data in combination with standard statistical techniques to generate regression equations for forecasting product quality. Because of the mill-specific nature of such forecasting equations, each mill or each product must be studied as a separate case. This report describes work that permits extending the applicable ranges of these regression equations to include the effects of changes in yarn count, twist multiple, combing noils, and blend level. Mathematical models quantitatively describing these parameters are presented in a form that can be easily incorporated into existing forecasting equations.
Anisotropy of Wool
Authors: De Jong S. , Curiskis J.
Published: March 2008

The quantitative relationship is examined between torsion and tensile experiments done on wool fibers at various conditions of humidity and temperature. The relation ship between torsion and tension measurements on a two component fiber depends on the volume fraction of the two mechanically distinct components. The two me chanical phases of the wool fiber are first assumed to be isotropic, but no assumption is made about their volume fraction. On this basis a mechanically elastic phase refers to approximately 5% of the fiber, not about 50% as is sometimes supposed. The re maining 95% of the fiber acts mechanically as a water penetrable viscoelastic matrix.

Allowance for anistropy in the mechanically elastic phase does not significantly affect its volume fraction. If the viscoelastic matrix phase is regarded as constituting 95% of the fiber, it can be considered as mechanically isotropic at all water contents. Because of the low filament volume fraction obtained, the results suggest that the microfibril is not the mechanical unit corresponding to the water unaffected phase of the two phase model.
Influence of Preadsorbed Water on Chromatographic Detention of Organic Volatiles by Cellulosic Substrates
Authors: Friedman H.L. , Miller B. , Meiser C.H.
Published: March 2008

A modified gas chromatographic system was used to measure the effects of pread sorbed water on the adsorption and desorption of various organic volatiles by cellulosic substrates. To minimize diffusion effects, short columns and fast carrier gas flow rates were used. The data yielded sticking coefficients, residence times, equilibrium constants (adsorption isotherms), and surface concentrations for a group of adsorbates including a homologous series of alcohols. In general, sticking coefficients increased, and residence time, equilibrium constants, and surface concentrations decreased as the concentration of water vapor increased. Sticking coefficients correlated with the total solubility pa rameters of the adsorbates.
Jute Fibers Under Scanning Electron Microscopy
Authors: Mukhopadhyay A.K. , Bandyopadhyay S.K. , Mukhopadhyay U.
Published: March 2008

The surface features of jute fibers after mild alkali and acid treatments were studied using SEM to reveal the fibrillar arrangement in different layers of the fiber. A few helically wound fibrils were noted.
Factors Affecting the Zeta Potential at Wool Fiber Surfaces
Authors: Capablanca J.S. , Watt I.C.
Published: March 2008

A streaming potential method has been used to determine the zeta potential at the surface of wool fibers in a supporting electrolyte solution. The zeta potential gives a measure of the average charge density at the surface of shear and, when measured as a function of pH, yields a titration curve for the fiber surface. The reproducibility of the curves for a particular wool sample is now such that zeta potential determination provides a means of assessing chemical reactions at the fiber surface through changes in surface charge. The technique has been applied to studies of the chlorine/Hercosett shrinkproofing process.

The shapes of the curves and the pH of the isoelectric point can be significantly affected by the choice of cleaning procedures adopted to remove contaminants. In addition, the state of the surface changes with time; this aging process leads to a more negative surface through atmospheric oxidation. Chemical oxidation by acid chlori nation of disulphide groups brings about a large excess of anions and a negative surface. Subsequent modification by deposition of a cationic polymer, as in the chlorine/ Hercosett process, results in a more positive surface. However, the interaction between the polymer and the wool causes the new surface to be less positive than for Hercosett film coated on a glass substrate.
Comparison of Several Nep Determination Methods'
Authors: Harrison R.E. , Bargeron J.D.
Published: March 2008

The formation of neps during the cotton yarn manufacturing process is a continuing problem. Fiber characteristics and processing conditions affect nep formation. Four methods of nep determination are compared: nep board counts from card web during carding, mounted card web samples counted with a template-defined viewing area, a nep test machine that resembles a miniature card, and yam neps. The comparison shows the four methods provide similar results.
Cotton Blend Fabrics from Polyester Core Yarns
Authors: Harper Robert J. , Ruppenicker George , Donaldson Darrell
Published: March 2008

Core spun yarns with a filament core and a cotton wrap were prepared and made into fabrics. The properties of these yarns and fabrics in comparison with all-cotton and intimate staple blend controls were investigated. This study included the dyeing of these fabrics and finishing for smooth drying and flame retardancy.
Cotton Tenacity Measurements with High Speed Instruments
Authors: Taylor Robert A.
Published: March 2008

Measuring fiber strength in cotton encompasses sampling, fiber preparation, and bundle clamping. The precision of the measurement is a function of these steps as well as the precision of measuring the force and mass of each bundle under test. A detailed analysis of each step in the tenacity testing sequence is presented here. Com parisons between newly developed high volume instruments and conventional methods (Pressley and Stelometer) show that the conventional methods are biased toward the long, strong fibers in a cotton, whereas the high speed instruments use less accurate, indirect methods to measure bundle mass and produce a force measurement that is confounded by differences in fiber crimp.
Neps in Cotton Processing
Authors: Hebert Jacques J. , Mangialardi Gino , Ramey H.H.
Published: March 2008

A test requiring only one gram of raw stock has been developed for estimating nepping potential. The test has been applied to follow nep formation within three cotton cultivars during processing. Variables include two picking dates (maturity) and lint cleaning or no lint cleaning following saw ginning. All samples were drafted, spun, and knitted. Fabrics were dyed and nep counts determined and compared with pre dicted neppiness. Possible causes of neps are discussed.
Assessment of Steady-State Free Formaldehyde in Durable Press Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Kottes Andrews B.A. , Reinhardt Robert M.
Published: March 2008

A systematic study has been conducted of the rate and extent of formaldehyde extracted from durable press finishes from a variety of agent-catalyst systems. Deter mination of the steady-state free formaldehyde released from fabrics during water extractions was investigated. The relationships between available formaldehyde, tem perature, and time of incubation were established. The steady-state free formaldehyde levels were compared for fabrics containing only free (applied) formaldehyde and those containing formaldehyde as part of a durable press finish. Influences of variables such as temperature of extraction and ease of finish hydrolysis are discussed.
Effects of Crosslink Distribution in Cotton Fibers
Authors: Frick J.G.
Published: March 2008

Microscopy has shown that some formaldehyde-free agents give a less uniform distribution of crosslinks in the cotton fiber than conventional agents. Crosslinks have appeared to be missing in regions where there is greater separation between fiber elements. This was believed to be the interlamellar spaces in cotton fiber, but crosslinks were also missing from some regions in rayon fiber where there are no lamellae. The relationship between interlamellar crosslinks and high wrinkle recovery in dry fabric now appears less clear. Less interlamellar crosslinking gave higher moisture regain but did not increase swelling in water or wrinkle recovery on wet fabric. Recovery from tensile strain was similar with and without interlamellar crosslinking.
Loss of Free Formaldehyde from Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Kottes Andrews B.A.
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabrics with known free formaldehyde contents were prepared. Free form aldehyde contents of the fabrics were monitored after applying the formaldehyde and after subjecting samples to various experimental conditions that afforded opportunity for loss of the free formaldehyde. In this manner, it was possible to observe changes in formaldehyde contents from exposure of the fabrics to air, to water, and to other fabrics. The influence of time, temperature, moisture, and level of formaldehyde on these changes, and the effect of cellulose crosslinking were determined. The results are discussed with a view to enlarging and extending our fundamental understanding of formaldehyde release from finished cottons and, in particular, the role of free form aldehyde in the fabrics.
Water Vapor Transmission Rates Through Textile Materials as Measured by Differential Scanning Calorimetry
Authors: Day M. , Sturgeon P.Z.
Published: March 2008

The permeability of small textile samples to water vapor has been evaluated using a conventional DSC cell. The technique enables evaporative rate data to be determined and comparisons made of materials having different characteristics. The data are useful in predicting evaporative sweat loss rates, thereby helping to evaluate metabolic heat loss problems associated with protective clothing for firefighters.
"X" Direction Filament-Wrapped Yarn
Authors: Louis Gain L. , Salaun Harold L.
Published: March 2008

A new filament wrap yarn, the X-wrap, is presented, as well as a procedure and device for producing the new yarn. The theoretical aspect of the X-wrap yarn is also presented. The strength and elongation of the new yarn, which are superior to con ventionally wrapped yarn, are discussed and compared.
A Technique for Direct Measurement of Roving Speed and Its Application to Winding Draft Analysis
Authors: Nakazawa M. , Isshi T. , Shinohara A. , Matsuhashi S.
Published: March 2008

A device was developed to measure the winding speed of roving directly and con tinuously to a package. A small roller rolling on the surface of the package was mounted on the tip of a presser of the test flyer as a winding speed sensor. Using this measuring device, the effects of the winding draft ratio (the winding speed of roving to the package divided by the delivery speed of roving from the front roller) on the roving weight per unit length at the package were investigated. Results show reasonably good correlation.
Influence of a Yarn Extractive Nozzle on the Apparent Loss of Twist in Rotor Open-End Acrylic Staple Spun Yarns
Authors: Manich A. , De Castellar D. , Barella A.
Published: March 2008

The influence of a yam extractive nozzle on the apparent loss of twist or "residual twist" has been studied for rotor open-end acrylic staple spun yarns. Four factors were studied: two quantitative factors - yam linear density at three levels and yarn twist multiplier at five levels, and two qualitative factors - three nozzle types and four rotor types. The analysis of results showed that both rotor type and extractive nozzle type exert a significant influence on residual twist, which tends to increase when the nozzle produces an increasing false twist effect on the yam and to decrease when yarn friction against the rotor increases. Residual twist increases significantly in a linear manner with both yarn linear density and twist multiplier. The nozzle type interacts significantly with all other factors (rotor type, yam linear density, and twist multiplier). An inter action between yarn linear density and twist multiplier has been also detected. Generally both nozzle type and twist multiplier exert a significant influence on the residual twist coefficient of variation.
Dyeability of Nomex® Aramid Yarn
Authors: Moore R.A.F. , Weigmann H.-D.
Published: March 2008

Treatments in highly polar solvents, such as dimethyl formamide, dimethyl acet amide, and dimethyl sulfoxide, under suitable conditions have been found to improve the dyeability of Nomex® yam so that it can be dyed under atmospheric conditions in a reasonable length of time without the aid of a carrier. Essentially, these solvents provide chemical energy to the yam, permitting rearrangements of the polymer chains through breakage and reformation of interchain hydrogen bonding. The changes in dyeability may be attributed to orientation changes or to microvoid formation occurring in the fiber structure during treatment.
False Twist Texturization of Polypropylene Multifilament Yams
Authors: Sengupta A.K. , Sen K. , Mukhopadhyay A.
Published: March 2008

The effects of heater temperature and contact time on the properties of textured polypropylene yarn are reported. Increases in both contact time and heater temperature increase crimp rigidity. Enhancing the rate of cooling increases crimp rigidity consid erably, particularly when low contact times are used. Texturization reduces crystallinity of the yarn. The crystallinity is progressively reduced with the increase in contact time. The use of a coolant to rapidly quench the yarn as it emerges from the heater reduces crystallinity even further. The level of crystallinity of the textured yarn is not related to the crimp rigidity value.
Application of Water Soluble Anionic Dyes to Solvent-Treated Polyester
Authors: Kirby R.D. , Cates D.M.
Published: March 2008

Solvent-treated polyester is easily penetrated by nonionic fluorescent dye from an aqueous bath. Direct dyes exhaust onto the treated fiber from an aqueous solution containing salt, and the dried, dyed fiber is fast to aqueous washing. Low molecular weight dyes containing a single sulfonic acid substituent exhaust well onto solvent- treated polyester but not onto cellulose. Low molecular weight dyes containing un symmetrically placed sulfonic acid substituents fail to dye either solvent-treated poly ester or cellulose. Dyeing is attributed principally to the sharing of hydrophobic surfaces of dye and fiber.
Contribution of Urea to the Textile Performance of Formaldehyde-Treated Cotton Fabrics 1
Authors: Gonzales Elwood J. , Chmielewski Margaret A. , Rowland Stanley P.
Published: March 2008

Experiments were set up according to statistical designs to study the effect of urea on the saturation-pad-cure reaction of formaldehyde with cotton cellulose via zinc nitrate catalysis, with concern for the balance of strength and abrasion resistance to resilience. Textile property performances were predicted from correlation curves at three levels of durable press appearance and conditioned wrinkle recovery angles. Predictions of textile performance differed with the statistical experimental design. The high level of resilience realized from the formaldehyde/zinc nitrate system is attributed to oxymethylene crosslinks, which are formed in greater amounts at higher cure temperatures. Improvements in abrasion resistance obtained with urea present are attributed to the formation of urea-formaldehyde polymer on yarn surfaces.
A Practical Process for Cutting Cotton Fiber
Authors: Hon David N.-S.
Published: March 2008

A practical process for cutting cotton fiber without losing much of its degree of polymerization (DP) is demonstrated. When fibers were cut in the wet condition, they suffered less degradation that those cut in the dry state. The DP loss was 9.1% when cotton was cut in the presence of ≧35.5% moisture regain compared to the loss of 16.1 % for those cut below this critical moisture regain. Electron spin resonance studies revealed the lower free radical formation in cut fiber when it was cut in the wet con dition, i.e., ≧35.5% moisture regain.
Identifying Extractible Resin Fragments in Durable Press Cotton by 13C-NMR Spectroscopy
Authors: Hermanns K. , Meyer B. , Koties Andrews B.A.
Published: March 2008

Fabrics padded with either N,N'-dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU), 4,5-dihydroxyethyleneurea (DHEU), or N,N'-dimethylethyleneurea (DMeEU) were subjected to drying and curing conditions over a range of temperatures from ambient to 160°C. A portion of each fabric remained unwashed and a portion was given a neutral wash with a nonionic detergent. In all cases, 13C-NMR spectra of neutral extracts at 40°C or 80°C of the fabrics treated with DHEU or its derivatives revealed the presence of the reactants and, in the case of DMDHEU, formaldehyde, in ap proximately millimolar concentrations. The extracts of washed fabrics that had been treated with DMeEU contained no chemicals. The results confirm that the crosslinking reactions and the methylolation reactions are reversible, and indicate that permanent sorption of these chemicals on the cotton without reaction is unlikely. All DMDHEU treated fabrics released small amounts of formaldehyde when exposed to moisture and elevated temperature.
Cumulative Geometric Changes in Woven Fabrics with Repeated Flexing'
Authors: Toney Mary , Schoppee Meredith M. , Skelton John
Published: March 2008

Extreme structural reorganization sometimes results from repeated flexing of fabrics that are tightly woven from multifilament yarns. This phenomenon has been inves tigated experimentally using a series of specially designed, narrow woven fabrics that were repeatedly cycled in bending under controlled laboratory conditions. The effects of yarn twist and yarn spacing on the extent of this reorganization, called "napping," have been studied. A simple model previously developed for bent waveforms is used to illustrate the mechanism of raised loop formation. Experimental results from the controlled flexing of a variety of fabric constructions suggest that a close match between yarn twist periodicity and weave periodicity is a necessary but not sufficient condition for nap formation in tightly woven, scoured fabrics; the distance between restrictions imposed by crossing yarns must also lie between certain limits for the phenomenon to occur to any marked extent.
False Twist Texturization of Polypropylene Multifilament Yarns
Authors: Sengupta A.K. , Sen K. , Mukhopadhyay A.
Published: March 2008

Annealing followed by rapid quenching is used to reduce the ctystallinity of poly propylene filaments. The effect of reduced feeder yarn crystallinity on the texturizability of the fibers is studied. The tension-annealed samples show a considerable increase in crimp rigidity values compared to the parent, unannealed samples, particularly when the contact time in the heater during texturing is low.
Density Correction of Nylon 6 Fiber Orientation
Authors: Jeziorny Andrzej
Published: March 2008

In order to exclude the effect of nylon 6 fiber density when determining the degree of orientation, a correction suggested by de Vries is applied. A practical method is presented for determining the anisotropy index, which is indispensable to the density correction. The results show that the density correction should be a constant element in routine structural studies of nylon 6 fibers.
A Fluorescence Microscopy Study of the Diffusion of Some Nonionic Compounds into Wool from Solvent Mixtures
Authors: Holt Leo A. , Saunders Jennifer A.
Published: March 2008

Fluorescent nonionic pyrazolines were applied to wool from organic solvents under swelling conditions, and sections of the treated fibers were examined by fluorescence microscopy. The fluorescence was found to be associated with the intercellular regions of the fiber rather than the cortical cells.
Gas Chromatographic and Mass Spectrometric Study of the Bromination of Protein Fibers with N-Bromosuccinimide and Triphenylphosphine
Authors: Sakamoto Munenori , Masuko Fumi , Nakanishi Shigeko
Published: March 2008

Silk fibers were brominated with a 1:1 (mole/mole) mixture of N-bromosuccinimide (NBS) and triphenylphosphine (TPP) in dimethylformamide. β-Bromoalanine (Brala) residues formed by the bromination of serine residues with NBS/TPP were very un stable under acid hydrolysis conditions, and Brala was not detected in the hydrolyzate of the brominated silk by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry of amino acids as their butyl esters of N(Q)-triftuoroacetyl derivatives. The brominated silk fibers were treated with aqueous solutions of ammonia and methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, and butyl amines. Chromatographic-spectrometric analysis of amino acids of the treated silk samples showed the formation of corresponding β-aminoalanine and β-alkylami noalanines formed by the reaction of Brala residues, by direct condensation, or through the formation of dehydroalanine residues as intermediates. The analysis also showed that monobromotyrosine was formed by the treatment with NBS/TPP. Bromination of tyrosine residues must proceed by electrophilic substitution, probably by the action of free NBS in the reaction mixture.
Poly(ethylene Terephthalate)/Poly(alkylene Terephthalate) Copolyester Fibers: Sorption and Dyeability
Authors: Varma D.S. , Agarwal Radha , Varma I.K.
Published: March 2008

The paper describes the effect of structure on moisture regain and dye uptake of copolyester fibers of poly(ethylene terephthalate) and poly(hexamethylene terephthal ate), poly(octamethylene terephthalate), and poly(decamethylene terephthalate). The increase in the methylene groups per repeat unit of copolyesters resulted in an increase in moisture regain and dye uptake. The diffusion coefficient values for dye uptake in copolyester fibers containing decamethylene groups were exceptionally high.
Quantitative Fiber Mixture Analysis by Scanning Electron Microscopy
Authors: Wortmann F.-J. , Arns W.
Published: March 2008

The possibilities and limitations of analyzing by scanning electron microscopy wool blended with two unmedullated specialty fibers, mohair and cashmere, were studied. The measurement of the height of the cuticle scale at the scale edge was used as an objective criterion for distinguishing between the wool and the specialty fibers. For both blend types and for the experimental procedure used, the mean absolute error of 1% was less than a third of the mean confidence distances and compared well with the accuracy of the chemical methods of analyzing fiber blends. The remaining errors were attributed to purely random variations, so that systematic errors of any kind can largely be excluded.
Crosslinking Effects in Reactive Dyeing of Protein Fibers'
Authors: Ball Peter , Meyer Ulrich , Zollinger Heinrich
Published: March 2008

Dyes featuring two reactive groups or one bifunctional group, when applied to wool and silk, can reduce the solubilities of these fibers in appropriate solvent systems. This is consistent with the formation of crosslinks during dyeing. Of the nine dyes studied, the most effective crosslinker possessed two well separated reactive groups. On wool, dyes with more closely located reactive sites were comparable in effect to formaldehyde. The reduced solubility of wool dyed with dyes containing one α-bromoacrylamide group indicates a bifunctional reaction of this group; this is in agreement with a hy pothesis stating bifunctionality.

On silk, α-bromoacrylamide dyes undergo bifunctional reactions to a limited extent only, if at all. With other bifunctional dyes, the number and distribution of cnosslinks on silk depend on the type of reactive group and the method of dyeing. The inhibition of dye penetration after crosslink formation on silk in dyeings with a difluorochlo ropyrimidine dye at 40°C can be greatly alleviated by dyeing at 90°C, and thereby distributing the crosslinks more evenly throughout the fiber. The effectiveness of the highly reactive dichlorotriazine system in crosslinking depends on the method of dyeing used on wool and on silk.
Stresses in Clothing as Related to Seam Strength
Authors: Crow Rita M. , Dewar Malcolm M.
Published: March 2008

This paper summarizes work done to determine the minimum seam strengths re quired for clothing, in particular, Canadian Forces (CF) combat clothing, and to re- validate a recommended 80% seam efficiency. It describes a method to determine where maximum stresses occur in clothing, the locations of these stresses in wear, and the stances that cause these stresses, as well as the stresses incurred while donning and doffing clothing. The maximum stresses in wear and in donning clothing are measured and the results given. A factor of safety is used to arrive at minimum acceptable seam strengths for clothing.
Selective Scouring of Dirt from Greasy Wool Part I: A Strategy to Improve Dirt Recovery from Scour Liquor Effluent
Authors: Bateup B.O. , Warner J.J.
Published: March 2008

Laboratory experiments have shown that dirt removal by a cold suint bowl from both low and high yielding Australian merino fleece wools can increase from 10-25% to 40-60% by adding certain surfactants, builders, or their mixtures. Factorial exper iments show that increasing the concentration of the additives has the most significant positive effect on dirt removal and recovery, and grease removal. Increasing the tem perature of the suint bowl from 20 to 35°C has a less significant positive effect on each of the responses. Changing from a wool with high dirt and medium grease (low yielding) to a wool with low dirt and medium grease (high yielding) results in a lower percentage of both dirt and grease removed by the modified suint bowl, but the overall removal of both is greater than when no additives are present. Factorial experiments also show that one very effective formulation comprises a mixture of nonionic sur factant and soda ash. The settling efficiency of dirt (which determines dirt recovery) is determined in both hot and cold scour bowls containing a nonionic surfactant and soda ash. The settling efficiency decreases as the grease concentration and grease to dirt ratio in the liquor increase with continuous scouring. In all cases, dirt recovery from the modified cold suint liquor is greater than from a cold bowl containing no additives. The highest recovery is between 45-50% of the dirt entering on the greasy wool, which is over twice the recovery from a suint bowl without additives. Only a small amount of recoverable grease is removed from the fiber (less than 10% of the total grease present) by the modified suint bowl; the remaining grease removed is nonrecoverable (30-60% of the total grease present).
Foam Finishing Treatment of Cotton Fabrics with Formaldehyde Part I: Textile Physical Properties1
Authors: Gonzales Elwood J. , Reinhardt Robert M.
Published: March 2008

A fractional factorial design of experiments was used in studying the treatment of cotton printcloth with formaldehyde. Foam application of the HCHO with Zn(NO3)2 catalysis was used at wet pickups up to 40%. Multiple stepwise regression analysis of the textile property data indicated that only combinations of processing variables were responsible for a substantial portion of the predicted increases in resilience and the decreases in strength and abrasion performance. The analysis also substantiated the satisfactory agreement between predicted and measured resilience and strength values and the moderate to poor agreement between predicted and measured abrasion values.
Effects of Strain Rate and Gauge Length on the Failure of Ultra-High Strength Polyethylene Fibers
Authors: Schwartz P. , Netravali A. , Sembach S.
Published: March 2008

Ultra-high strength polyethylene filaments taken from a single spool of yarn were examined for strain rate and gauge length effects. As noted in previous research, high strength polyethylene exhibits pronounced strain rate effects that may be seen in strength changes, stress-strain behavior, and and topography of the fracture zones. Unlike most polymeric fibers, ultra-high strength polyethylene seems to exhibit no gauge length effects over the range from 10 to 200 mm, holding the strain rate constant. This latter effect, if true in general, would be a substantial advantage for polyethylene fibers, because scaling effects would be minimized.
Recrystallization of Cellulose
Authors: Bhama Iyer P. , Sreenivasan S. , Chidambareswaran P.K. , Patil N.B.
Published: March 2008

Hydrolysates of fibers swollen in various intracrystalline swelling agents were ball- milled for separate periods. These samples containing different proportions of cellulose I (C I) Cellulose II (C II) and amorphous (Am) phases were subjected to a mild hy drolysis, and their recrystallization behavior was studied by x-ray diffraction methods. Recrystallization into C I occurs only by nucleation, whereas recrystallization into C II is also caused by accretion of the long disordered molecular segments severed from crystallites.
False Twist Texturization of Polypropylene Multifilament Yarns Part IV: Structural Influences on Dye Uptake
Authors: Sengupta A.K. , Sen K. , Mukhopadhyay A.
Published: March 2008

Polypropylene fiber and fibers spun from blends of polypropylene and small amounts of polyester and polystyrene incorporated through melt blending prior to spinning were investigated for dyeing performance in both untextured and textured forms. The dyeing performance improved with the addition of these polymers. While the reduction of crystallinity resulted in improved dyeing performance, the nature of the polymeric additive and other structural characteristics of the fibers also played an important role. A negative correlation exists between the number of crystals per unit volume and dye uptake.
Determining Binder and Fiber Composition of Carbon Fiber Fabrics
Authors: Nelson K.H. , Kumar P.A. , Marconi J.F.
Published: March 2008

Methods are described for determining the binder and fiber contents of nonwoven fabrics bonded with a polyester binder and containing either carbon fibers or a blend of carbon and polyester fibers. The amounts of fiber and binder in a nonwoven made with only carbon fibers are determined by weighing the fibers after removing the binder with concentrated sulfuric acid. Analysis of a nonwoven containing a blend of carbon and polyester fibers is accomplished by removing the binder with 70% sulfuric acid and weighing the total fibers. Then the fibers are treated with concentrated sulfuric acid and the carbon fibers are weighed.
Effect of Different Catalysts on the DMDHEU-Cotton Cellulose Reaction
Authors: Abhyankar Prashant N. , Beck Keith R. , Ladisch Christine M. , Frick John G.
Published: March 2008

The utility of alkaline hydrolysis as a method for removal of DMDHEU crosslinks from cotton is illustrated in this paper. The method was applied to fabric treated with DMDHEU/MgCl 2 and DMDHEU/MgCl2/citric acid mixed catalyst systems. Removal of the finish was complete as verified by nitrogen and formaldehyde analyses and by wrinkle recovery measurements. Losses in breaking strength and flex abrasion resistance produced in the cotton fabric upon treatment with DMDHEU were almost completely restored by the resin stripping. The DMDHEU/MgCl 2 treatment reduced the dpv (degree of polymerization by viscosity) of cotton by about 24% and DMDHEU/mixed catalyst treatment reduced it by about 18%.

The quantity and chemical nature of the catalyst affect the ethyl acetate solubility of cellulose nitrate formed after stripping and nitration of crosslinked samples. Neither of the catalysts alone imparted ethyl acetate insolubility, but each catalyst by itself decreased the degree of polymerization of the cotton cellulose to a significantly greater extent than in the presence of DMDHEU. Fabrics treated with high concentrations of both catalyst systems could not be completely stripped of nitrogen and formaldehyde, and were not soluble in ethyl acetate (after nitration).
Optical Properties and Geometrical Parameters of Poly(p-phenylene Terephthalamide) Fibers
Authors: Hamza A.A. , El-Farahaty K.A.
Published: March 2008

Forward scattering of a He-Ne laser beam was used to measure the dimensional parameters, transverse-sectional shape, and area for two different samples of poly( p- phenylene terephthalamide) (PPT) fibers, PRD 49 and Kevlar 49. A double-beam interferometric technique was applied to determine the mean refractive indices for plane polarized light vibrating parallel and perpendicular to the fiber axis, and the mean birefringence was also determined for the two samples of PPT fibers. The area enclosed under the interference fringe shift, when crossing the fiber, represents the path difference integrated across the fiber. The mean values of the transverse-sectional area of fibers measured from the forward scattering of the laser beam were used to calculate the refractive indices and the birefringence of the fibers. Multiple-beam Fizeau fringes in transmission were used to determine the perpendicular refractive indices for each of the two samples of PPT fibers, using the value of the fiber thickness measured by the diffraction method. The obtained values for refractive indices, the birefringence, and diameter of PRD 49 and Kevlar 49 fibers measured by this technique are in a good agreement with previously published values.
Foam/Fabric Interaction Under Shear
Authors: Sveda Thomas G. , Miller Bernard , Rebenfeld Ludwig
Published: March 2008

The increasing use of foams in textile wet processing has generated a need for better understanding of the factors that control such processes. Most studies until now have dealt with the influence of foam properties on the transport of chemicals into the fabric, but the chemical and physical properties of the fabric should also affect both material transport and foam stability. In all foam finishing processes, shear occurs at the foam/fabric interface, and it seems reasonable that the magnitude of that shear would reflect interfacial adhesion and be sensitive to the characteristics of both ma terials. A relatively simple method has been devised to quantify the interactions between foam and fabric by determining the shear stress that develops as a foam moves along a fabric. Reproducible shear stress values are obtained that depend on the blow ratio and bubble size distribution of the foam and also on the fabric properties thus far explored - aspects of both their chemical nature (fiber type, surface treatment) and their physical structure (surface roughness).
Effect of Twist Factor on the Knitability of Combed Cotton Yarn
Authors: Cooke W.D. , Kamal M. Samir
Published: March 2008

A large scale knitability trial was organized to establish the effect of twist on the knitability of combed cotton yarn. The results of this trial using modern commercial machines and normal tightness factors were compared with the results of testing on a knitability tester similar to that proposed by Sasaki and Kuroda. There was no correlation between the knitting performance of the five twist levels and the results of the Sasaki and Kuroda test. The knitability results correlated with yarn irregularity and the numbers of thick and thin places as measured with the Uster Classimat.
Heat Transfer Characteristics of Nonwoven Insulating Materials
Authors: Obendorf S. Kay , Smith Jana P.
Published: March 2008

The thermal insulating abilities were evaluated using the guarded hot plate technique (ASTM D 1518-77) for the following selected nonwoven insulating materials: air-laid structures of low linear density polyolefin and low linear density polyolefin mixed with conventional linear density polyester, and carded structures of hollow polyester fiber, crimped polyester filament, and conventional polyester fiberfill. The thermal resistance of the materials varied directly with thickness, but on a per thickness basis the air-laid structures provided more thermal resistance than the carded structures. The thicker, low linear density, air-laid structure was an exception in that it did not exhibit as large an advantage over the carded structures as did the other air-laid struc tures. Under the conditions of the guarded hot plate apparatus, correlations of intrinsic thermal conductivity with the structural characteristics of the insulators indicated that the proportion of heat loss by convection was lower for the air-laid structures than for the carded structures. This reduction of heat loss by convection was due to high tor tuosity of the air flow path and larger fiber surface area.

Each nonwoven insulator was subjected to 10 launderings to evaluate the effect of this action on thermal properties, thickness, air permeability, and weight. The mixed linear density, air-laid structures, hollow fiber insulator, and conventional fibafill decreased markedly in thermal resistance, while the low linear density insulators and the crimped polyester insulator exhibited only small changes as a result of the laundering process.
Role of Press Wall Friction in the High-Density Compression of Wool Bales
Authors: Abbott G.M. , Nason D.
Published: March 2008

A high-pressure, laboratory scale press was used to measure the coefficient of friction and the shear stresses between the walls of the press and model wool bales made from high-density polyethylene, jute, and paper/nylon woolpack materials. The effects on press wall friction of pack material, moisture content, lubricants, an anti-slip coating, and a change in fabric structure were examined. The significant benefits of using a wax lubricant containing stearic acid to increase "in-press" densities were confirmed using a commercial three-bale compactor in which farm bales, each containing 200 kg of wool, were compressed to densities approaching 1200 kg/m3.
Mechanics of a Single Nozzle Air-Jet Filling Insertion System
Authors: Salama Mahmoud , Mohamed Mansour H.
Published: March 2008

The air velocity distribution along the air guide system of an air-jet loom is affected by the initial air velocity at the nozzle and the design of the guide system. In this paper, the air velocity distribution along regular and slotted tubes (simulating a new air guide system) is presented in terms of the tube configuration and its interaction with the jet at the tube entrance.
Analysis of Drape by Means of Dimensionless Groups
Authors: Hearle J.W.S. , Amirbayat J.
Published: March 2008

The drapemeter is a useful method for characterizing the behavior of fabrics, and the drape coefficient has been empirically related to bending and shear stiffness. As part of a wider study of complex buckling, we have found that the geometric form of deformation can be related to two dimensionless groups, relating bending, membrane, and potential energies, and definable in terms of sheet parameters and size. The use of these dimensionless quantities provides a simple way of plotting drape values.
Determining Dust and Trash Contents of Cottons with the Cotton Particulates Analyzer
Authors: Deluca L.B.
Published: March 2008

Separate algebraic relationships were established between coarse and respirable dust fractions and trash and respirable dust fractions from gravimetric measurements made with the cotton particulates analyzer, CPA, on multiple cleaning passes for each of two ginned cottons. One cotton had a low and the second a high trash content. Each set of these equations could be combined into a generalized equation for both cottons. CPA gravimetric data were compared with other methods for measuring dust and trash in cotton. Multiple cleaning passes of a low trash cotton were used to find re lationships between CPA and Shirley analyzer lint and trash fraction gravirrietric data. The relationship between CPA respirable dust and trash fractions will be used in Part II of this series to evaluate other methods of measuring dust and trash in ginned cottons.
A Study of Wool Carbonizing
Authors: Wu Zhao  , Johnson Nigel A.G.
Published: March 2008

After steeping scoured wool in an acid solution and centrifuging, the surface liquid remaining in the wool mass exists in various forms of discrete droplets. During the drying phase of a carbonizing process, these droplets contract and their acid concen tration increases. Beneath the droplets of concentrated acid, intercellular material is extracted from between the overlapping wool scales; the scales lift and may eventually break off. By adding the "critical spreading concentration" of a surfactant to the acid bath, the surface liquor after centrifuging remains spread over the fibers as a film and prevents local concentrations of acid forming during drying.
A Mechanical Model for the Lateral Compression of Woven Fabrics
Authors: De Jong S. , Snaith J.W. , Michie N.A.
Published: March 2008

A mechanical model for the lateral compression of woven fabrics is derived from Van Wyk's compression law for fiber assemblies. The pressure ( P) and thickness (v) relationship is P = a/( v - v')3. The parameter v' refers to the core of the fabric, which is incompressible over the pressure range 2-5000 gf/cm 2. The parameter a refers to the compressible surface layers and is dependent on the mass of fibers in the surface layers and their orientation.

A comparison is made of the results obtained with the KES-F fabric compression tester and the standard fabric thickness tester. The energy of compression is proportional to the cube root of the parameter a. The compressibility of the fabric is proportional to the energy of compression per unit volume of fabric. The changes that occur in the fabric surface layers during a typical fabric finishing process are investigated.
Filament-Wrapped Cotton Yarn Made from Card Web
Authors: Salaun H.L. , Louis G.L. , Richard L.J. , Folk C.L.
Published: March 2008

Two mechanical drafting devices have been developed for drafting and aligning fibers in a strip of card web for the purpose of producing filament-wrapped yarns. Both devices, one an apron drafter, and the other a roller drafter, are fully described in this report. Yarns ranging from 25 to 48 tex were made at production rates ranging from 21 to 48 m/min. Yarns produced from the two drafters were compared and analyzed. The apron drafter made yarns with higher strength, elongation, and better uniformity and appearance than the roller drafter.
Determining Dust and Trash Contents of Cottons with the Cotton Particulates Analyzer
Authors: DelucA L.B.
Published: March 2008

The general validity of an equation relating cotton trash and respirable dust fractions obtained using gravimetrical measurements made with the cotton particulates analyzer has been tested with data from a variety of other respirable dust separating machines. Six different cottons with a wide range of Shirley trash content were used to test these machines. In the machines where pairs of metallic clothed rolls open the lint to aero dynamically liberate respirable dust, the Shirley trash fraction is proportional to the square of the respirable dust fraction. The Shirley trash is proportional to the respirable dust from the Anderson-Baker dry and Thibodeaux wet methods where the respirable dust is separated from the lint by an air jet and methanol wash, respectively, and for a machine in which the fibers are worked by two perforated, pinned cylinders.
Mechanics of a Single Nozzle Air-Jet Filling Insertion System
Authors: Salama Mahmoud , Adanur Sabit , Mohamed Mansour H.
Published: March 2008

Yarn insertion through regular and slotted tubes (simulating the air guide system on air-jet looms) has been investigated. A theoretical analysis describing the yarn movement during insertion and the equation of motion is presented. The effects of the conditions behind the nozzle on yarn insertion are shown in terms of the loop length and the speed of the feeding system. Experimental results of yam insertion using different conditions for the various parameters are discussed. Good agreement between experimental and theoretical results was found.
An Experimental Approach to Spinning New Cellulose Fibers with N-Methylmorpholine-Oxide as a Solvent
Authors: Loubinoux D. , Chaunis S.
Published: March 2008

This paper presents practical knowledge about dissolving and spinning cellulose in the NMMO-H2O system described in the Kodak and Akzona patents. From the highly hydrated NMMO commercialized by Texaco and a viscose pulp with an average polymerization degree of 700, we made true solutions in two stages: swelling of the cellulose and evaporation of the largest part of the water in a mixing-kneading device under vaccum, and dissolving in a twin-screw extruder with degassing sections. The depolymerization was controlled by antioxidants. The spinning of solutions with 10 or 20% cellulose is on line with the dissolving operation. After drawing in air, the filaments are plunged into water, which separates the NMMO from the cellulose. The initial modulus of the filaments depends on the drawing ratio. The best value measured (about 15 N/tex) is comparable with values from commercial high modulus viscose fibers. The breaking strength is still insufficient because of microbubbles, which will be removed in the future by means of a more efficient degassing of the solutions.