bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Fiscal Decentralisation and Economic Growth in High‐Income OECD Countries
Authors: Thiessen Ulrich
Published: August 2010

Among the majority of high–income OECD countries, the degree of fiscal decentralisation has converged over the last 30 years towards an intermediate level. The theoretical arguments for and against fiscal decentralisation point to explanations for this tendency, because both extreme decentralisation and extreme centralisation are associated with disadvantages for economic growth. Hence, the observed trend of convergence would be growth–promoting. The paper analyses the long–run empirical relationship between per capita economic growth, capital formation and total factor productivity growth, and fiscal decentralisation for the high–income OECD countries. The evidence supports the view that the relationship is positive when fiscal decentralisation is increasing from low levels, but then reaches a peak and turns negative. A policy implication is that policy–makers in several countries with relatively low degrees of fiscal decentralisation could possibly mobilise growth reserves by increasing it.
Tax Structures and FDI: The Deterrent Effects of Complexity and Uncertainty
Authors: Edmiston Kelly , Mudd Shannon , Valev Neven
Published: August 2010

This paper measures the distortionary and distributional effects of housing subsidies in the Netherlands. Its broad scope allows us to discuss the results in the light of the main justifications for subsidising housing, i.e. the merit–good argument, external effects and the distribution motive. Our measurements reveal some patterns of subsidisation that seem difficult to justify on these grounds. This applies especially to the differences between subsidisation of rental and owneroccupied housing and between mortgage– and equity–financed ownership. Moreover, the inelastic supply of housing in the Netherlands entails that subsidisation has only a limited effect on promoting housing quality.
The Performance of the Foreign‐Owned Sector of UK Manufacturing: Some Evidence and Implications for UK Inward Investment Policy
Authors: Munday Max , Peel Michael J. , Taylor Karl
Published: August 2010

This paper analyses the reported performance of foreign‐owned manufacturing subsidiaries in the UK between 1994 and 1998. The paper is set in the context of uncertainty about the performance of some foreign‐owned sectors of UK manufacturing and the implications of this performance for the beneficial spillover effects sought by policy‐makers from foreign‐owned capital. Japanese‐owned subsidiaries are the focus of particular attention, with reported profits and tax liabilities significantly below those of subsidiaries from other national sources. The wider ramifications of this finding are analysed for the UK case, particularly in terms of the need to take into account the wider exchequer effects of inward investment in the general evaluation of the financial assistance provided to foreign firms.
Ageing and the tax implied in public pension schemes: simulations for selected OECD countries
Authors: Fenge Robert , Werding Martin
Published: August 2010

A key figure suited to measuring intergenerational imbalances in unfunded public pension schemes is given by the ‘implicit tax rate’ imposed on each generation's lifetime income. The implicit tax arises from the fact that, quite generally, pension benefits fall short of actuarial returns to contributions paid to these systems while actively working. Under current pension policies, implicit tax rates will increase sharply for younger generations in most industrialised countries. In this paper, this is illustrated for the cases of France, Germany, Italy, Japan, Sweden, the UK and the USA. Nevertheless, there are remarkable differences across countries regarding both the level of implicit taxes and their development over successive age cohorts, which can be attributed to differences in ageing processes and in the institutional features of national pension systems. In addition, we can demonstrate how effective different approaches to pension reform are in smoothing the intergenerational profile of implicit tax rates.
Poverty or preference: what do ‘consensual deprivation indicators’ really mean?
Authors: McKay Stephen
Published: August 2010

Consensual deprivation indicators assume that there is a broad consensus on what goods/services families should be able to afford, and that an inability to afford those items can measure deprivation. Using data from two British surveys in 1999, this paper makes two arguments. First, there is only limited agreement about which items families should be able to afford. Secondly, different social groups are more (or less) likely to say the absence of a ‘necessity’ is due to choice. Families who cannot afford two or more ‘necessities’ invariably have a number of ‘nonnecessities’, often many. Their patterns of preferences (and spending) are not typical and they are choosing to buy other goods – through preference rather than poverty. Simply checking whether people lack items for any reason provides results empirically as reliable, but subject to similar criticisms.
Redistributive impact of indirect tax reforms: Greece, 1988–2002
Authors: Kaplanoglou Georgia , Newbery David Michael
Published: August 2010

This paper assesses the distributional impact of indirect taxes among Greek households between 1988 and 2002, a period that coincides with the introduction of significant reforms in the tax system due to EU membership. The highly differentiated indirect tax structure prevailing at the beginning of the period had distributional benefits over the more simplified 2002 tax structure. The overall inequality of the after‐tax welfare distribution has increased by 6–12½ per cent and changes in the indirect tax system seem to explain about half of this increase. The paper also applies a recent method of measuring the distributional impact of relative price changes caused by changes in tax rates of commodities (Newbery, 1995) and establishes that indirect tax reforms introduced since 1988 had an adverse impact on the distribution of purchasing power, which nevertheless seems to be very small.
Some Aspects of the Drying and Heating of Textiles
Authors: PRESTON J. M. , CHEN J. C.
Published: August 2010

Fabric temperatures and rates of drying have been investigated using “infra‐red” heating.

Fabrics show two steady temperatures during drying. The lower ocours during the period of the constant drying rate; the higher occurs when the fabrics are dry. The rise, from the lower to the higher temperature occurs at the “critical moisture content”.

Critical moisture contents are given for a number o8
Some Aspects of the Electro‐chemistry of Dyeing
Authors: Neale S. M.
Published: August 2010

An attempt is made to provide a simple physical picture of the effect of electrical forces upon the dyeing process.

Since both fibres and colour ions are electrically charged relative to the water by which they are surrounded, they either attract or repel one another, according as to whether they are oppositely or similarly charged.

This electrostatic effect is not the principal factor in the affinity of a dye for the fibre, but the variations in the strength and character of the electrostatic force are responsible for the effects of salt in dyeing, and for the effect of acid on the dyeing of silk and wool.

The progress of research on this problem is also indicated.
An Absorption Isotherm for Direct Dyes
Authors: Crank J.
Published: August 2010

A new theory of direct dyeing is presented in terms of the Langmuir theory of surface adsorption, modified to allow for the effect of foreign electrolyte in the dyebath.

A simple formula is derived, relating the equilibrium absorption of dye to the dyebath concentration, the concentration of foreign electrolyte in the dyebath and the temperature.

The formula is shown to account satisfactorily for the main features of the equilibrium dyeing of cellulose by Chrysophenine G in the presence of sodium chloride.

The theory is used to calculate the energy of dyeing of cellulose by Chrysophenine G.
A Systematic Investigation of the Colour and Dyeing Properties of the Aminoacridines
Authors: BIBD C. L.
Published: August 2010

The colour and fastness properties on tanned cotton of a number of diaminoaeridines and substituted monoaminoacridines, particularly derivatives of 5–aminoacridine, have been examined. Derivatives of 5–aminoacridine ore almost always pale yellow, and show better fastness to light and to wet treatments than do most basic dyes. Derivatives of 1–, 2–, 3–, and 4–aminoaeridine and diaminoacridines exhibit a variety of hues, e. g. rose and violet as well as the familiar shades of yellow and orange, but they all show poor fastness to light and wet treatments.
The Oxidation of Azo Dyes and its relation to Light Fading
Authors: DESAI N. F. , GILES C. H.
Published: August 2010

It has been shown that oxidation of azo dyes in aqueous media, with several common reagents, including ceric sulphate, potassium dichromate, and hydrogen peroxide, disrupts the azo group and leads to the formation of a diazo compound and a quinone. Subsequently these further decompose to give, respectively, a phenol and nitrogen (in acid media) and phthalic acid. This reaction thus appears to be common to many types of oxidising agent, since previous workers have observed like effects with e. g. hypochlorite, lead dioxide, and nitric acid. An acceptor has been used to characterise the quinone formed. By boiling the acid solution after oxidising the dye a quantitative yield of nitrogen from the azo group is obtained, except when free amino groups are also present.

A hypothesis is put forward suggesting that the initial step in such chemical oxidations is one of hydrolytic attack on the ‐C = N– bond of the hydrazone tautomer of the dye. This is shown to fit the facts reasonably well by a study of the relative ease of oxidation of several phenylazo dyes of both soluble and insoluble types, with different substituents in the benzene ring.

An examination of available light fading data shows evidenoe of agreement with this theory in the case of insoluble azo dyes, but soluble dyes in many cases behave in an opposite sense.

It seems unlikely that a chemical reagent can be found to fade dyes in the same manner as light exposure and thus be suitable for a rapid sorting test.
The Potochemical Degradation of Starch and Allied Carbohydrates
Authors: WHELAN W. J. , PEAT STANLEY
Published: August 2010

The breakdown of carbohydrates by ultra–violet radiation has been studied, using as the principal substrate the amylose component of potato starch. Two distinct types of photodegradation are recognised–

One type, occurring in the presence of oxygen, is a photo–oxidation (for which zinc oxide is a powerful sensitiser) followed by a light–sensitised hydrolysis and further oxidation, which results in the complete conversion of the amylose to carbon dioxide, via the intermediate products formaldehyde and formic acid, all three of which have been'identified. The photo–oxidation is believed to be similar to oxidation effected by the periodate ion, which oxidises the α–glycol group situated at C 2 and C 3 of the glucopyranose ring, with the production of two aldehyde groups. Hydrolysis of the oxidised amylose liberates fresh a–glycol groups, and further oxidation then ensues. The results of the aerobic photodecompositions of potato starch, potato amylopectin, maltose, glucose, and a–methyl glucoside agree with, and provide additional support for this hypothesis.

The second form of photodegradation takes place in the absence of oxygen, and has been studied in an atmosphere of highly purified nitrogen. The final products, as yet unidentified, do not include those of the aerobic degradation, and are characterised by a marked resistance to subsequent photo–oxidation.
The Significance of the Absence of Geometrical Isomerism among the Diazoaryl‐sulphonates, ‐sulphinates, and Sulphones in the Structural Interpretation of Hantzsch's Alleged syn‐ and antiDiazosulphonates
Authors: Hodgson H. H. , Bailey D.
Published: August 2010

The tlittzoaryl‐sulphonates, ‐sulphinates, and sulphones do not occur in geometrical isomerides, and this fact is now shown to provide additional evidence in favour of the structural viewpoint that Hantzsch's alleged q n ‐ and anti‐diazosulphonates are really diazo‐sulphites and ‐6ulphonates respectively.
The Cellulose–Dye Complex
Authors: PRESTON J. M. , Su Y. F.
Published: August 2010

Studies have been made of the relation between the degree of orientation of dyed regenerated cellulose fibres and the degree of polarisation of their fluorescence under various conditions. It is shown that, with certain precautions, the fluorescence method gives a measure of the dichroism of the dyed fibres and is a simple and accurate method of evaluating dichroism.
The Dyeing Properties of Chlorinated Wool I–Qualitative Experiments using Wool chlorinated at Various pH Values1
Authors: STEVENS C. B. , WHEWELL C. S. , BRADLEY R. K.
Published: August 2010

A preliminary qualitative investigation has been carried out into the dyeing properties of wool treated in solutions of sodium hypochlorite at various pH values. It has been confirmed that, when using selected equalising acid, neutral–dyeing acid, direct cotton, and chrome dyes, wool treated in acid solutions of hypochlorite absorbs more dye than untreated wool when samples of both are dyed togethor in the same solution, whereas when treated under neutral or alkaline conditions it absorbs less dye and a resist effect is obtained. Treatment in hypochlorite solutions at certain intermediate pH values yields material with dyeing properties similar to untreated wool. Using basic dyes, the chlorinated wool absorbs more dye than the unchlorinated material irrespective of the pH at which the treatment is carried out.
The Influence of Substituenta on (1) the Decomposition of Diazo Compounds in Acid and Alkaline Solution, and (2) the Alkaline Reduction of Aromatic Nitro Compounds
Authors: HODOSON H. H. , NORRIS W. H. H. , WARD E. R.
Published: August 2010

Conductivity data indicate that diazonium ions in acid solution conatitute the greater part of the diazonium‐diazo equilibrium‐

these are stabilimd by kationoid and destabiliaed by anionoid substituenta. Tn alkaline solution, the more complex system‐

when disturbed (e.g. by evolution of nitrogen from (I), or by hydrolysis of (IXI), etc.), will them be further upset by the reactivity of (11) with the products from (I) and (111). Kationoid substituents will confer greater reactive power on the diazohydroxides (11) than anionoid aubstituenta, so that the ultimate rate of decomposition of the alkaline system will be enhanced in the revem direction to that in acid solution. This viewpoint explains Jolles' results, on the stability of alkaline diaaoates, and his work on diazo resins is also briefly discussed.

(2) Unlike reduction of aromatic nitro compounds direct to aminen in acid solution, the reduction in alkaline media is complicated by the alrlol condelaeation of the second (nitroso) with the third (hydroxylamino) reduction product to form a latively stable azoxy compound. Anionoid substituents will, therefore, tend to inhibit further reduction by making the azoxy compound, and subsequently the azo compound, more anionoid towards the anionoid reducing agent, while kationoid substituents will have the reverse effect. The anomalous caae of the reduction of p‐dinitrobeme by sodium hydrosulphidele mainly to pp′‐dinitroazobenzeneis discussed, and found to depend on solvent ection on the nitro group.
The Rôle of the Disulphide Bond in Reactions which render Wool Non‐felting
Authors: Alexander P. , Carter D. , Eaeland C.
Published: August 2010

It is shown from experiments with peracetic acid that breakdown of the disulphide bond alone does not remove the d.f.e. of wool fibres and thus cannot bring about non‐felting by surface attack alone. Extensive disulphide bond breakdown without attack on other groups renders wool non‐felting by‐modification of the elastic properties of the fibres as a whole. It is concluded that, to remove the d.f.e. of a fibre and to render wool unshrinkable by attack on the surface only, two reactions are necessary— firstly, as recognized by Speakman4,5, splitting of the disulphide bond without formation of a new crosslink; and secondly, breakdown of the wool molecule at another point, which in the case of the well known anti‐shrink processes probably occurs at the tyrosine residue in the polypeptide chain.
Diazo Compounds in the Determination of Wool Damage
Authors: Glynn M. V.
Published: August 2010

An investigation has been made into the possibility of using the Pauly test for the quantitative estimation of wool damage. Rapid decomposition of aqueous solutions of diazo compounds, resulting in the formation of coloured azo compounds within wool flbres, has been observed. Such colour development can occur in undamaged fibres, leading to false conclusions. Other diazo compounds have been investigated, and it has been found that diazotised o‐nitroaniline is considerably more stable than diazotised sulphanilic acid and gives reproducible results when used to measure damage. Preliminary work using the modified test indicates that a single test of this type is incapable of detecting or measuring all types of damage.
Studies in the Fundamental Processes of Textile Printing VI‐The Transfer of Disperse and Water‐soluble Dyes to Nylon during Steaming
Authors: Daruwalla E. H. , Turner H. A.
Published: August 2010

The work reported in Part V of this series1 has been extended to include a study of the transfer of disperse, soluble acetate‐rayon, and acid dyes to nylon. In general, there is a close resemblance between the dyeing behaviour of each class of dye and the corresponding transfer behaviour during steaming. This is demonstrated by a, comparison of the present experimental results with those which have been obtained in quantitative studies of nylon dyeing by other workers.
The Structure and Properties of Natural and Allied Fibres
Authors: MOORE W. R.
Published: August 2010

It has been possible only to outline the structure and some of the physical properties of natural and allied fibres. While such fibres can be regarded as possessing a common basic structure, modifications of this may lead to considerable differences between the different fibres. In wool the chains do not easily fit into a lattice and crystallinity is low. The chains are folded, such folds being maintained by physical forces between chains. These forces are comparatively weak, and unfolding is easy. The fibre has a low strength and, under certain conditions, a high extensibility. In silk, extended chains fit more readily into a lattice, and the fibre is less extensible. In cellulosic fibres the chains fit easily into å lattice, and in native fibres there are relatively strong forces between chains. The fibre is strong with short‐range elasticity. Regenerated cellulose fibres differ from native in a number of ways‐in the dimensions of the unit cell, in the smaller degree of crystallinity and more random orientation of crystallites, and in the possession of a skin, these differences being reflected in differences in physical properties.

This outline of structure and properties is based on two concepts‐ the configuration of the chains and the existence, in the fibre, of crystallites and amorphous regions. While this simple picture should possibly be elaborated to include the arrangement of crystallites into fibrils and the surface structures of fibres, it permits the correlation of fibre structure with such important properties as moisture regain, density, birefringence, swelling, extensibility, and crease‐resistance. These are only some of the properties related to fibre structure. Others, such as the diffusion of dyes, the amount of dye absorbed under specified conditions, and the orientation of dyes in fibres, all of importance in dyeing, may also be related to fibre structure.
The Dyeing of Acetate Rayon with Disperse Dyes VndashDiffusion Coefficients in Cellulose Acetate Film
Authors: Bird C. L. , Manchester F. , Scott D. P.
Published: August 2010

Values for diffusion coefficients, ranging from 0.05 to 4.8×10‐10cm.2/sec., have been determined at 80°c, for disperse dyes in cellulose acetate film. The results indicate that the rate of dyeing of disperse dyes is mainly governed by the rate of diffusion in the fibre.
Proceedings of the Society Finishing of Fabrics containing Terylene Polyester Staple Fibre
Authors: MIMS N. M.
Published: August 2010

This paper describes some of the differences between the properties of Terylene polyester fibre and wool, discusses how these differences manifest themselves in finishing, and outlines the response to finishing treatments of fabrics containing Terylene staple fibre, both by itself and blended with botany wool.
The Determination and the Significance of Crystallite Size in Regenerated Cellulose Fibres
Authors: Tyler D. N. , Wooding N. S.
Published: August 2010

Determinations of accessibility and total crystalline content have been made for a number of regenerated cellulose fibres. Moisture sorption has been used as a measure of cellulose accessibility, and total crystalline content has been estimated from density measurements.

It is suggested that the results may be interpreted as showing differences in the average cross‐sectional area of crystalline regions.

An attempt is made to correlate these differences with the properties of the fibres produced by various methods of manufacture.
… and inwardly digest*
Authors: Burgess S.
Published: August 2010

The problem of keeping abreast of the increasing volume of technical literature is discussed, special reference being made to the technique of fast reading, and the quality of scientific writing.
Tests for Colour Vision
Authors: JORDINSON F. , MINSHALL T.
Published: August 2010

The various types and degrees of defective colour vision are discussed, leading to many different kinds of tests, which may be valuable and successful for certain purposes but less so for others. Special tests are required for dyers and colour blenders, where even a slight variation from normal colour vision is quite an important matter. The Wain test, which has been developed on the basis of metameric matches, is claimed to be extremely sensitive for this purpose.
The Sixth George Douglas Lecture
Authors: Cassie A. B. D.
Published: August 2010

Meeting held at the Midland Hotel, Bradford, on 13th October 1960, Mr. F. M. Stevenson (President of the Society) in the chair

The importance of the setting of wool fibres on packages is discussed in relation to cloth manufacture and shrinkage in finishing. Some remarkable changes that come about in low‐temperature dyeing of wool when fibres are cleaned with various solvents are described.
The Pad–Roll Dyeing System. A Summary of Experience
Authors: Kern R.
Published: August 2010

The results obtained in practical trials with the Pad–Roll dyeing system are described. Fabrics composed of cellulosic, polyamide, polyester and acetate fibres have been dyed with direct and disperse dyes, and some trials have been made with acrylic fibres and wool, as well as with blended fibre fabrics. Methods for overcoming some practical difficulties are described.
Dyeing Polyacrylonitrile Fibres with Cationic Dyes
Authors: Beckmann W.
Published: August 2010

Methods for predicting the dyeing behaviour of cationic dyes on acrylic fibres (of Orion 42 and Dralon types) are of value, since the existence of saturation values, the poor levelling characteristics of the dyes used, and the pronounced dependence of exhaustion rate on dye concentration and temperature demand careful control of the whole dyeing process. The nature of the bond between the fibre and the dye, and the dependence of dyeing equilibrium on dyeing conditions are considered, and equations are derived for calculating the dye uptake of single dyes and of mixtures. Finally, methods of achieving levelness of dyeings are discussed.
Modern Physical Techniques in Colour Formulation
Authors: Aldeeson J. V. , Atherton E. , Derbyshire A. N.
Published: August 2010

The possibilities of using modern physical instruments in colour control and formulation are discussed, with specific reference to filter colorimeters, spectrophotometers, and high‐speed electronic digital computers. It is shown that visual assessments can be used to calibrate colorimeters, so that measurements of small colour differences may be expressed in colourist's terminology. An electronic computer has been programmed, to enable rapid colour‐matching calculations to be carried out. The applications and implications of this method are discussed.
The Dyeing and Finishing of Terylene–Linen Fabrics
Authors: Haden I. E.
Published: August 2010

In the finishing of Terylene–linen fabrics, the shrinkage characteristics of the constituent yarns must be given careful consideration. Established methods for open‐width processing of 100% linen fabrics may be applied to the blend and, according to the choice of yarn, a predominance of either flax or Terylene fibre on the fabric surface can be produced. Good stability to laundering is achieved by processing the fabric under minimum tension and heat setting at some stage in the finishing sequence. Terylene–linen fabrics may be dyed to solid colours by a two‐bath process, using a variety of techniques. The possibility of differential abrasion must be considered when producing cross‐dyed effects. The use of crease‐resist resins is recommended for those fabrics made from the 67/33 blend intended for outerwear. Provided that an amount appropriate to the fabric weight is applied, good crease recovery can be produced with various classes of resin.
Coloured Effect Threads in Fabrics made from Terylene Polyester Fibre and its Blends
Authors: Garrett D. A.
Published: August 2010

The methods now available for the production of novel colour effects in Terylene and Terylene blend fabrics are described for the principal types of fabrics encountered, and the methods by which optimum fastness can be achieved, using currently available techniques, are discussed. Emphasis is also laid on the responsibilities of the finisher and maker‐up when handling these fabrics. A final recommendation which can be usefully made as a general guide to the finisher is to cheek the performance of all fabrics incorporating dyed yarns before processing bulk quantities.
The Sorption of Acids by Wool from Mixtures of Acids
Authors: Larose P. , Donovan R.
Published: August 2010

The amounts of trichleroacetic acid and hydrochloric acid sorbed by wool from mixtures containing various amounts of the two acids in aqueous solution were measured. Tests were also carried out with solutions of triehloroacetie acid and monochloroacetic acid alone. The results show the same sort of relationship between the amounts of hydrochloric acid and trichloroacetic acid sorbed and the concentration of the corresponding anions in the solution in equilibrium with the wool as that found in the previous experiments with dichloroacetic acid and with monochloroacetic acid1, but the affinity of trichloroacetic acid for wool is much higher than the affinities of these two acids. The amount of acid sorbed can be calculated from the final concentrations of the two acids in the solution at equilibrium, as before 1, but a correction that depends on the chloride ion concentration has to be introduced.
The Dyeing of Shrink‐resistant Wool
Authors: Cookson E. A. , Hine R. J. , McPhee J. R.
Published: August 2010

The effects of boiling aqueous solutions on wool oxidised with a variety of reagents have been studied. Strength and weight losses for oxidised wool (as for untreated wool) were at a minimum at pH 3–. Wool that had been treated with hydrogen peroxide to oxidise about 7% cystine was damaged no more than untreated wool in the boiling solutions, but wool treated with shrink‐resist agents (acid chlorine, permonosulphuric acid–sulphite, permanganate–salt) was damaged more severely than untreated wool. This increased susceptibility to damage is probably due to attack by the shrink‐resist agents on the cuticle of the fibres and therefore is an inherent feature of wool made shrink‐resistant by oxidative treatments in aqueous solution. Investigations on the dyeing of shrink‐resistant wool with milling acid and 1:2 metal‐complex dyes are reported. Strength and weight losses were minimised by dyeing at pH near 4 in the presence of non‐ionic dyeing assistants and by keeping the temperature to which the bath was ultimately brought to the minimum required forexhaustion and thorough penetration of the dyes into the fibres, usually about 85–90°C.
Pad‐Batch Dyeing of Wool with Reactive Dyes
Authors: LEWIS D. M. , SELTZER I.
Published: August 2010

A process for the production of fast, bright dyeings on wool cloth is described. Reactive dyes applied by a pad‐batch (cold) method yield level dyeings with very high colour yields. Virtually 100% fixation has been obtained with Procion M (ICI) dyes applied to wool from mildly acidic solutions, after batching for up to 24 h at room temperature. Yellowing of wool does not occur under these conditions, which facilitate the production of dyeings of a brightness and fastness that cannot be achieved under conventional dyeing conditions for wool.
Possibilities of Instrumentation and Control in the Leather Industry
Authors: SYKES R. L.
Published: August 2010

Leather is produced by tumbling skins in solutions of processing chemicals in rotating drums. In general, the problems of instrumentation are common to the tanning and dyeing of leather. No completely reliable system of sampling has yet been devised; attempts to solve this problem are discussed. Solution of the problem must precede fully automatic control. Modifications to drum design offer possibilities for improving the regularity of make‐up floats and rinsing procedures and enable liquor temperatures to be adjusted during processing. Monitoring and control of temperature and pH are expected to lead to a more uniform product. Exploratory work has indicated previously unsuspected causes of uneven dyeing that will not be eliminated solely by process instrumentation. More regular use of automatic batching equipment and sequence controllers is expected in the immediate future
Direct Interpretation of Colorimetric Readings in Terms of Colour Tolerance*
Authors: Bell J. R.
Published: August 2010

The practical use of any of the uniform colour co‐ordinate systems in colour‐tolerance work requires tedious and time‐consuming calculations. A simple and quick interpretation of the colorimetric colour difference of a production lot relative to a given standard value is desirable. This paper describes a graphical procedure by which this may be achieved, in particular for Colormaster readings interpreted in the Adams Chromatic‐Value system. For a given tolerance in N.B.S. units and for each colour standard, a graph is drawn and each production lot is plotted directly with reference to its RGB Colormaster readings. This plot provides (a) an immediate assessment of whether the lot is within the given tolerance and (b) a record of the colour‐tolerance performance in the production of the particular colour.
Absorption of Dyes by Keratin under Near Neutral Conditions*
Authors: Marshall J.
Published: August 2010

The absorption by keratin of the monobasic dye Orange II (C.I. Acid Orange 7) and the dibasic dye Sunset Yellow FCF (C.I. Food Yellow 3) from a dyebath containing the sodium salt of the dye and different amounts of sodium chloride at two pH values (5.1 and 6 0) was studied. Salting‐on and salting‐off were observed with Orange II but not with Sunset Yellow. Theoretical curves were constructed to fit the empirical absorption isotherms. A constant affinity term enabled a fit with the Orange II curves to be obtained, but an affinity term that decreased with increasing salt concentration was required to obtain a fit with the Sunset Yellow curves. The effect of these factors on the diffusion coefficients of the dye anions in the presence of salt is discussed.
Men, Management and Money in Developing Countries
Authors: BUXTON J. C. W.
Published: August 2010

Problems encountered in establishing new textile plants in developing countries are considered. Particular attention is paid to the scale of production in relation to the needs and aspirations of the countries concerned. Methods of financing such industrial development are discussed, and the effect of increased competition on the U.K. industry is considered. When the U.K. textile industry decides to get down to work and to think, plan and behave in a positive and co‐operative fashion, it will be found that the new textile industries of developing countries need not be feared.
A Complete and Highly Effective Mothproofing Agent Comprising a Pyrethroid and a Hexahydropyrimidine
Authors: de Sousa Bernardo , Schmid Werner , Hefti Heinz , Bellus Daniel
Published: August 2010

Pyrethroids, considered as a general class of compounds, have been shown to provide effective protection from the larvae of the keratin‐digesting insects Tineola bisselliella H., Tinea pellionella Linn., Hofmannophila pseudo‐spretella Station and Attagenus piceus Oliv. The position regarding the susceptibility of the furniture carpet beetle to pyrethroids is less clear, however. It has been reported that both deltamethrin and permethrin are effective against Anthrenus flavipes Le Conte, whilst permethrin is also reported elsewhere to be effective against the same species. Results obtained in our laboratory, however, have indicated that pyrethroids may offer inadequate protection against Anthrenus vorax Waterh. [1, 2]. This latter species is identical to Anthrenus flavipes var. seminiveus Casey, a colour variety of Anthrenus flavipes Le Conte. The 1,3‐disubstituted5‐phenylcarbamoyl‐2,4,6‐trioxo‐ and 4,6‐dioxo‐2‐thione‐hexahydropyrimidine derivatives described in this paper exhibit a surprisingly high and selective toxicity to the Anthrenus species. Thus, a combination of an appropriate hexahydropyrimidine with a suitable pyrethroid, e.g. permethrin, provides complete control of a wide range of commonly encountered textile insect pests. The influence of substituents on the mothproofing activity is discussed.
Sequential Bleaching and Shrink‐resist Treatment of Wool
Authors: Benisek L , Palin M J
Published: August 2010

Hydrogen peroxide bleaching in the presence of a silicate‐based stabiliser improved the effectiveness of most of the chemical and polymer shrink‐resist aftertreatments evaluated, when compared with unbleached or wool bleached in the presence of a phosphate‐based stabiliser. Bleaching before shrink‐resist treatment was found to cause less cumulative damage to the fibre than the reverse sequence, particularly in the case of chemical shrink‐resist treatments.
Photofading of Some Azo Disperse Dyes on Nylon Film
Authors: Areoria A , Longo M L , Parisi G
Published: August 2010

The photofading of nine azo disperse dyes on nylon 6 film has been investigated at 254 nm in the presence and in the absence of air. A reductive pathway is involved, which is confirmed by the presence of amines arising from the reduction of the azo group. Zero‐order and first‐order kinetics have been found to operate, depending on the dye structure. The reaction mechanisms are briefly discussed.
Colorimetric Evaluation of Change in Colour
Authors: Ulshöfer H.
Published: August 2010

This paper is sponsored by the Fastness Tests Committee to give the maximum time for testing and evaluating the proposed formula before the next ECE and ISO meetings. Members of the Fastness Tests Committee have not yet had time to study in full the results presented in the paper, and therefore do not necessarily agree with the views expressed by the author. (The paper was previously published in German in the September 1986 issue of Textilveredlung.)

In the paper a formula is presented for the evaluation of the change in colour that provides for the determination of fastness ratings by means of colour‐difference measurements. The results agree well with the mean judgement of experienced assessors, who determined the ratings by means of the ISO 105‐AO2 grey scale.
The vapour pressures and heats of sublimation of model disperse dyes
Authors: Shimizu Torn , Ohkubo Shigeyasu , Kimura Mitsuo , Tabata Isao , Hori Teruo
Published: August 2010

The vapour pressures and heats of sublimation of 23 model disperse dyes have been measured by the vapour saturation method (modified transpiration method). The data obtained were in good agreement with those produced by the other investigators using the effusion method. The heats of sublimation are discussed in terms of molecular structure.
A review and assessment of numerical shade sorting methods
Authors: Aspland J Richard , Jarvis Christine W , Jarvis James P
Published: August 2010

The properties of current shade sorting geometries are evaluated on a mathematically generated, spherical population of normally distributed data points. The results compare well with those obtained from preuiously cited populations of textile production goods. Thefixed‐grid geometries (cubic, rhombic dodecahedra1 and truncated octahedral) are not as efficient in terms of the numbers and uniformity of shade sorting groups as the grid‐free spherical clusters employed by Clemson Color Clustering (CCC).
The effect of reactive dyes on damage in wool dyeing
Authors: Lewis David M
Published: August 2010

This paper demonstrates that reactive dyes exert a significant fibre–protective effect when dyeing wool fabric; this effect may be measured, in a reproducible manner, using the wet–burst strength test. The effect of dyebath pH, dye concentration, dyebath temperature and dyeing time on wool can thus be evaluated. The magnitude of the above protective effect has been compared with that achieved using commercially available fibre–protective agents. It is concluded that reactive dyes are significantly more effective than the latter agents when employed in medium to full depths. It is proposed that the unusual protective effect afforded by reactive dyes is related to the following factors. Reactive dyes readily react with sulphur nucleophiles, thus inhibiting thiol–disulphide interchange reactions and thereby significantly interfering with the level of set produced in a boiling dyebath. Reactive dyes react preferentially with non–keratinous proteins in the intercellular cement and the endocuticle thus reducing their tendency to hydrolyse and to partially dissolve in the hot aqueous dyebath.
The preparation and processing of tussah silk
Authors: Das Subrata
Published: August 2010

Tussah silk is well known for its fast fawn colour, which is often preserved in the manufacture of dress and other fabrics. Hence the processing of tussah for fabrics has not been very common, except for certain ladies' apparel such as sarees, scarves, etc. Little information on the practical processing of tussah silk has appeared in the technical literature. The present paper will attempt to review the preparation, dyeing, printing and finishing of tussah silk based on laboratory and mill experience.
The fashion designer's perspective
Authors: Jacques Barbara
Published: August 2010

Fashion is recognised as the ‘glamorous’ sector of the textile industry. It receives the most publicity and is often the most unpredictable. However, unforeseen technical problems are harsh realities for the most inspired designer. Barbara Jacques calls for a common system of reference between fashion designers and dyers to minimise fibre/colour incompatibility.
The role of an enzyme in reducing wool shrinkage
Authors: Riva A , Cegarra J , Prieto R
Published: August 2010

A proteolytic enzyme derived from the bacterium Streptomyces fradiae has been applied on to wool in an attempt to improve its shrink‐resistance properties. The influence of enzyme concentration and treatment time in the improvement of felting shrinkage in different washing cycles has been determined. The extent of attack on the fibre was also measured.
Colour in textile effluents‐the origins of the problem
Authors: Pierce Jeff
Published: August 2010

The potential restrictions of the discharge of coloured effluent has generated a great deal of work on decolorisation technology, but the problem has not been fully defined, let alone measured. Here, Jeff Pierce gives theoretical models, worst case scenarios and actual measurements of colour in effluent.
HPLC analysis of the natural scale insect, madder and indigoid dyes
Authors: Koren Zvi C
Published: August 2010

A linear gradient elution method has been applied to the HPLC analysis of plant and scale insect red anthraquinonoid mordant dyes and molluscan blue and red‐purple indigoid vat dyes. The method enables the use of the same elution program for the determination of different chemical classes of dyes. In addition, it significantly shortens the retention times of natural anthraquinonoid dyes over those previously published. For the first time a new dye, probably dibromoindirubin, has been detected in theMurex trunculussea snail. The dye families investigated include the ones most often found on ancient textiles and shards from dyeing vessels in Israel and other regions.
Use of ultrasonic energy in reactive dyeing of cellulosic fabrics
Authors: Öner Erhan , Başer Inci , Acar Kamil
Published: August 2010

The use of ultrasonic energy in dyeing cotton fabrics with monochlorotriazine and vinylsulphone reactive dyes has been studied spectrophotometrically. The dyeings carried out conventionally and by the use of ultrasonic techniques were compared in terms of percentage exhaustion, total amount of dye transferred to the washing bath after dyeing, fastness properties and colour values of the dyed materials. Overall results have shown that the use of ultrasound in reactive dyeing of cellulosic fabrics can result in energy savings, less water consumption, increased depth of colour and better process conditions.
Studies in metamerism using dichroic ladders
Authors: Wardman R H , Weedall P J , Heggie D. , Reid D G , Gailey I.
Published: August 2010

Dichroic ladders, comprising a set of samples and a floater dyed with different dyes, have been used to examine metameric pairs of coloured samples. Observers were asked to select the sample from the ladder which most closely matched the floater, the resulting pair being metameric. Whilst there was a good agreement between the visually and instrumentally selected matching ladder sample under illuminant D55, consistent differences were found under illuminant A and TL84. An improvement in the level of agreement between the visual and the instrumentally determined matching ladder sample under illuminant A and TL84 was obtained if tristimulus values were computed from reflectance values using weighted ordinates interpolated to the 6d̀ and 16d̀ observer respectively.
The application of membrane technology for reuse of process water and minimisation of waste water in a textile washing range
Authors: van't Hul J P , Rácz I G , Reith T.
Published: August 2010

Recycling of process streams and reduction of waste disposal using membrane technology in a continuous textile washing process after dyeing with reactive dyes have been investigated theoretically. A mathematical process model of a conventional open‐width washing range has been extended by membrane processes to determine the benefits and limitations of the modified washing processes. The concentrations of hydrolysed reactive dyes, sodium chloride, urea and caustic soda have been calculated with this process model. Reverse osmosis for desalination and decolourising and nanofiltration for decolourising have been implemented as membrane technology. Reusing filtered wash water in a previous wash step results in more water saving than recycling to the same wash step according to the process calculations. The total fresh water demand can be reduced by 70% and the total waste water volume by 90% compared with the conventional process. Greater reduction of fresh water use is limited by the osmotic pressure difference between the retentate an permeate streams.
One–pass pigment printing of bright colours on a dark textile background
Authors: Lahat Z , Levene R , Zwilchovsky B , Marmorash Y
Published: August 2010

When printing a coloured pattern over a dark textile background, the latter shows through, since the coloured pigment and the binder are transparent. An opacifier (titanium dioxide) can be added to hide the dark ground, but this reduces the brightness of the pigment, so that red becomes pink. An opacifier has been found, diatomaceous earth (diatomite), which has good hiding power for the dark ground, although not reducing the colour strength of a coloured pigment mixed with it, allowing the printing of bright colours. The colour strength of a red–pigmented printing paste opacified with titanium dioxide increases slowly and linearly with pigment concentration. In contrast, when printing the red paste without opacifier on a white background, colour strength increases rapidly and then levels off at 3–4% pigment concentration. A diatomite opacified paste behaves similarly, that is, like a coloured, transparent medium applied to a white ground.
Azo dyes encapsulated within aluminosilicate microporous materials
Authors: Huddersman K , Patruno V , Blake G J , Dahm R H
Published: August 2010

A novel synthetic method is presented for the encapsulation of azo dyes within a range of zeolites by in situ diazotisation and coupling reactions. The pH changes of methyl red, methyl orange and dimethyl yellow indicator dyes encapsulated in zeolites HY, NaY, ZSM5, mordenite and ultrastable Y were investigated by visual inspection and UV/visible spectroscopy. Changes depended on the concentration of hydrogen ions within the zeolite and, with ageing, equilibration with the external buffer solution produced colour change in the zeolite dye residue. Since the dye molecules were small enough to pass out of the pores of the zeolite, leaching was anticipated but was found to depend on the dye's polarity and nature of the solvent. The industrial application of these solid phase indicators is currently under investigation as is their potential to act as bleed‐resistant pigments. There is some evidence that methyl violet is formed in situ from the sorted coupling component N,N‐dimethylaniline.
Violence and Temporal Subjectivity
Authors: HAANSTAD ERIC J.
Published: August 2010

Perceptions of temporal malleability and subjectivity are experienced by many perpetrators, victims, and witnesses of violence. Are perceptions of the slowing down, speeding up, or heightened awareness of time, which accompany violent moments, indicative of broader cultural and humanistic phenomena? In this article, I explore accounts of temporal perceptions surrounding violent encounters as a methodologically useful field of intersection between theories concerning the cultural construction of reality, the anthropology of time, simulation, and an emergent holographic physics. If, as a growing number of physicists assert, the universe can be described as a hologram where “time” is illusory and simultaneous, violent events that are perceived as temporally ambiguous offer sites of particular interest for the humanistic examination of these physical models. In other words, the temporal subjectivity often experienced by those who encounter violence can be interpreted as directly perceivable holographic encounters. The perpetrators, victims, and witnesses of such encounters can be viewed not only as interpreters of particular cultural temporal systems but also actively manipulating space–time and socially constructed reality. Interpreting violence through the experience of human agents could lead to greater insight into not only the symbolic meaning generated by acts of violence but also its hyperreal, desensitizing, and dissociative effects. Furthermore, the amplification of these effects by mass media and modern state ideologues becomes more penetrable under such an interpretive model. I draw from ethnographic research with police and “security” personnel in Thailand, Vietnam, and the United States, as well as from media and performance analysis.