A Study on Three-Dimensional Expression in Body Painting through a Prism of Skeletal Muscle: Focusing on Base Makeup
Authors: Jung I-Han , Choi Min-Lyoung 
Published: February 2025

This study aimed to explore AR-based highlight and shading design through the understanding of middle-aged women’s face shapes and their phrenological features in aging face, with the intention of proposing how to apply base makeup to make them look younger. The findings of this study are as follows. First, for egg-shaped face, highlighting applied to under the eyes, and from the center of the forehead to the glabella, and down 1/2 of the bridge of the nose. And applied in a round way with brightness in +1.5 phase lighter than a skin tone in order for the zygomatic part where levator labii superioris is placed, both cheeks and the center of the chin where the mentalis are placed to appear chubby. As shading is applied in a diagonal line way following follow the contours of the face, from the alveolar process of the mandible and maxilla which has it origin at masseter muscle and biceps muscle, and zygomatic part of zygomatic arch above the ear, to the chin. And brightness is applied in –1.5 phase darker than the skin tone. Second, for long face, highlighting is given in a way to connect as short as possible the forehead and the glabella to the bridge of the nose, and to divide the forehead and under the eyes horizontally to enable the cheeks to appear chubby. With the chin omitted. And connecting frontalis to temples and above corrugator supercilii muscle in a round way following both temples and above the corrugator supercilii muscle, with brightness applied in +1.5 phase lighter than the skin tone. Shading is overall horizontally applied to parts comprising the tip of the forehead where frontalis and galea aponeurotica are placed, the lower end of nasalis muscle, and mentalis; and brightness is applied in –1.5 phase darker than the skin tone. Third, for round-shaped face, highlighting is placed on under the eyes, from the center of the forehead to the glabella, and down 1/2 of the bridge of the nose. And is given in a way for frontalis to appear more round and wide, and in a long way to connect under the eyes to levator labii superioris muscle of front cheek, with the application of brightness in +1 phase lighter than the skin tone. In practice, such highlighting proved to have the desired effect. Shading is placed on the masseter muscles of both cheeks, the zygomatic parts of zygomatic arch of both sides of the face, and nasal walls, in an oblique line way from zygomaticus major and minor to the outer sides of the lips, with the application of brightness in-1phase darker than the skin tone. Fourth, for square-shaped face, highlighter is used on the T zone in a vertically round way toward above corrugator supercilii muscle and nasal muscle. And is applied to connect the glabella to long down the bridge of nose, in a diagonal way from under the eyes to the tip of the nose, and in a long way from the center of mentalis muscle to the lower corner of the mandible of the line of the tip of the chin. Brightness is applied in –1 phase darker than the skin tone. The practice proved such highlighting to have the desired effect. Shading is curved on both sides of the angular chin line and forehead; and it is applied in an oblique way from zygomaticus major and minor muscles under zygomatic bones toward oral angle.