bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
A Technique for Simulating the Stength of Kevlar 29 Yarn in a Woven Configuration
Authors: Ericksen R.H.
Published: March 2008

To obtain maximum yarn strength translational efficiency in Kevlar 29 parachute webbings, the pick frequency must be reduced to the extent that the structure is too loose to be useable. As a result only modest efficicncy has been achieved in Kevlar 29 webbings. It has been shown that only part of the strength decrease is caused by the weaving process; hence, warp and fill yarn interaction during loading contribute to the loss in efficiency.

A test fixture was developed to measure the strength of a yarn sample threaded through a series of wires or yarns. This enabled the effect of warp twist and ply on warp strength to be easily and quickly determined under simulated crimp conditions. It was found that yarn strength decreases with decreasing pick spacing in the fixture, as is observed in woven fabrics, and the magnitude of strength decrease varies with yarn twist. optimum fabric strength was predicted to occur at lower warp-twist levels than those established using conventional yarn tests. Comparisons were made between the simulation results and the limited data available for woven structures. A general correlation was obtained for cases where the warp yarns were compressed during fabric construction.
Incremental Frictional Abrasion
Authors: Warfield C.L. , Stone J.F.
Published: March 2008

Four blended polyester/cotton fabrics were subjected to incremental Accelerotor abrasion. These fabrics varied in blend level, fabric geometry, and finish. Photomicrographs of stained fabric cross sections revealed clumping and uneven distribution of the two fibers within the yarns. Types of fabric damage observed were yarn voids, yarn displacement, fabric debris, and pills. Observed damage to polyester fibers included fused ends, bulbous stubs, jagged cut ends, and fiber enlargement and/or separation into fibrils within a continuous fiber length. Fibrillation of cotton fibers was also observed.
The Relationship Between Light-Fastness and the Physical Properties of Simple Mono-Azo Dyestuffs
Authors: Kamel M. , Amin S.A. , Afifi M.S. , Tera F.M.
Published: March 2008

The light-fastness of simple mono-azo dyestuffs on polyamide fabric was studied. Examination of the characteristic fastness-grade curves give information about the relation between the size distribution of the dye particles on the fiber and its concentration. The fading rate of the dyestuffs as a function of the time of irradiation leads to evaluation of the fading-reaction order. The shape of the fading-rate curves and the characteristic fading curves are used to diagnose the physical state of the dyes in the fiber.
Mechanical Properties of Cotton/Polyester Yarns
Authors: Duckett K.E. , Goswami B.C. , Ramey H.H.
Published: March 2008

Samples of two cotton cultivars were spun with high- and normal-tenacity polyester staple fibers in cotton/polyester blend ratios of 100:0, 67:33, 50:50, 33:67, and 0:100. Stress-strain measurements provided tenacities, elongations, and breaking energies. Based on the stress-strain response of the pure cotton and pure polyester yarns, breaking energies were calculated for the yarn blends, with the assumption that the two different components did not interact. Differences between calculated and experimental values, which were maximum when the polyester content was about 60%, were attributed primarily to the interaction between the constituent cotton and polyester fibers. Support for this attribution was provided through measurements of energy lost when an oscillatory shearing motion was applied to 50-gram blended specimens of carded lap.
Infrared Analysis of Vapor-Phase Pyrolysis Products of Flame-Retardant Fabrics
Authors: McCall Elizabeth R. , Morris Nancy M. , Berni Ralph J.
Published: March 2008

A number of commercially available flame-retardant fabrics were pyrolyzed under controlled co ditions and the yapor phase products identified by infrared spectroscopy. The vapor-phase products obtained by sequential pyrolysis in increments of 200° from 200° to 1200°C in a variety of atmospheres (air, vacuum, nitrogen) were c pared with those from a single 1000°C pyrolysis under the same atmospheric conditions. The fabrics studied were cotton, cotton-polyester, polyester, nylon, and rayon treated with a variety of flame retardants. Untreated polyester and cot n fabrics were pyrolyzed under the same conditions. Atmosphere and heating conditions (sequential or single-burn) substantially affect the vapor-phase pyrolytic products. Relatively large quantities of hydrocarbons were consigtently present in the infrared spectra of fabrics burned at a single high temperature. These hydrocarbons are not usually apparent in sequentially-burned samples. The difference between a single high-temperature burn and a sequential burn is less pronounced in an atmosphere of nitrogen.
Chemical Composition of Cotton Dusts
Authors: Mittal D.K. , Fornes R.E. , Gilbert R.D. , Sasser P.E.
Published: March 2008

Cotton plant parts are thought to be a major source of dust generated during cotton processing. Their chemical composition is important with regards to identifying the causal agents of byssinosis. Reported here are the ash and protein contents of cotton bract, leaf, stem, burr, and gin trash samples and of their dried aqueous extracts. The average ash contents of the above samples are 18.0, 16.6, 7.2, 7.5, and 19.1%, respectively. Significantly, the average inorganic contents of dried aqueous extracts are from two to five times higher than those of the raw samples.. The average protein contents of the above samples are 12.5, 17.4, 8.6, 5.7, and 13.6%, respectively. The average protein contents of the dried aqueous extracts of bract, leaf, and gin trash samples are about the same as the raw samples. The protein of the dried aqueous extracts of stem and burr increases markedly compared to the raw samples (from 8.6 to 21.3% and 5.7 to 15.5%, respectively). Ash and protein contents of several weed samples have been analyzed, and their extracts are approximately the same as stem and burr samples. The fraction of each sample that is extractable by water is about the same ( ca. 13%) for all plant parts, gin trash samples, and weed samples investigated in this study.
Flame-Retardant Multipurpose Finishes for Wool
Authors: Benisek L. , Craven P.C.
Published: March 2008

A multipurpose finish involving shrink-resistance, flame-retardance, water-, and oil-repellency can be simultaneously applied to wool fabrics by a pad-dry-cure, wash-off, dry technique. An oligomeric vinylphosphonate and a polyvinylidene chloride copolymer impart flame-retardance, a bisulphite adduct of a polyurethane imparts shrink-resistance, and a fluorocarbon imparts water- and oil-repellency. The properties achieved are fast to multiple severe washings at 60°C.
Statistical Theory for the Strength of Twisted Fiber Bundles with Applications to Yarns and Cables
Authors: Phoenix S. Leigh
Published: March 2008

This paper describes a statistical model for the strength of twisted bundles of stiff fibers. The model evolves from the classic model for bundle strength and is most applicable for short bundles with low friction between filaments; however, the model is believed to yield insight into the strength behavior of longer yarns and cables. The individual filaments follow helical paths and are assumed to vary randomly in strength and slack. In twisted yarns the filament slack is introduced to model the resulting effects of incomplete filament migration during twisting, though certain parameters are difficult to estimate experimentally. As bundle size increases, bundle strength is asymptotically normally dis tributed, and the asymptotic mean and variance are given. In a first application we consider the strength of twisted yarns under typical assumptions for stiff aramid fibers. Random variation in fiber strength and imperfect fiber migration yield dramatic reductions in yarn-strength efficiency as the yarn helix angle increases; at the same time the variability in yarn strength increases substantially, though it diminishes as the number of filaments is increased. In a second application a Monte Carlo simulation approach is used to study the strength of a torque-balanced cable with three helical layers of a few aramid-strength memhers. Typical amounts of variability in member strength result in large decreases in strength efficiency. However, weakest-link results are shown to understate the cable strength.
Properties of Blend Yarns
Authors: Zurek Witold , Sobieraj Izabela , Trzesowska Teresa
Published: March 2008

Two properties of blended yarns are of high importance from the wearer's point of view: aesthetic appearance and elastic recovery. To predict the appearance of yarn after it is dyed in finished goods, a method is proposed that con sists of dyeing yarn in the laboratory with a dye of different affinity to component fibers. Next, the lengths of segments of strands of every kind of fiber on the surface of the yarn in the direction of the yarn axis were measured, as well as the lengths of strands consisting of mixtures of fibers. The distribution of the lengths of strands are presented and discussed. Elastic recovery of yarns made of viscose, acetate, and polyamide fibers and of their blends were analyzed at various levels of strains. Basing upon results obtained, the mechanics of elastic recovery of blended yarn is discussed.
A New Reactive System for Continuous Dyeing and Printing of Cellulose and Blends
Authors: Mcconnell B.L. , Graham L.A. , Swidler R.A.
Published: March 2008

A new, unique system for the continuous dyeing of cellulose is reported. It requires dyes containing phosphorus acid subgroups which are believed to condense with the active hydrogen on the cellulose to join the chromophore through the phosphorus atom. This takes place in the presence of cyanamide-type compounds and heat. The dyes are applied at pH 5 to 6, and so are suitable for co-application with disperse dyes. This process lowers the cost of continuous dyeing of cotton in polyester blends compared to disperse-vat dye systems, while retaining the wet colorfastness typical of reactive systems. A full range of shades can be obtained, and the difference between dyeings on mercerized and un mercized cloth is slight. Both the dyeing and printing processes have been shown in full-scale production to be readily suitable for use in existing plants without the need for new equipment, and are applicable to typical commercial fabrics.
Effect of Dye-Polymer Interaction on the Stress-Strain Characteristics of Dyed Polyethylene Terephthalate Fiber
Authors: Gulrajani M.L. , Sixena R.K. , Sengupta A.K.
Published: March 2008

The mechanical properties of undyed (treated under conditions identical to those of dyeing) and dyed polyester fibers, dyed with PNA (a model disperse dye), C.I. Disperse Yellow I, and Red 17 were investigated. It was observed that the presence of these dyes causes perceptible changes in the mechanical behavior of the fibers. While PNA (model dye) acts as a plasticizer, the disperse dyes cause hindrance to the movement of the molecular chains of the polymer..
Lint-Cleaning Efficiency at Gins and Its Significance
Authors: Mangialardi Gino J.
Published: March 2008

Cleaning efficiencies for two stages of saw-cylinder lint cleaning with full-scale commercial equipment were examined. It was shown from a 66-bale study that an average cleaning efficiency of about 35% per cleaner unit could be expected at field gins, but that the measured efficiency is affected significantly by both the initial foreign-matter content of the cotton and location of the unit cleaner within the lint-cleaning system.

The higher cleaning efficiencies obtained when processing cottons of high foreign-matter levels were attributed to the presence, of large trash particles, which were readily extracted by the centrifugal action of the cleaner. This effect was also observed with the first cleaner of a two-stage lint-cleaning system. The cotton handled by the first cleaner is trashier than that handled by the second lint cleaner, therehy producing a higher cleaning efficiency with the first lint cleaner than with the second lint cleaner.

It is pointed out that the efficiency is also affected by the amount of combing and centrifugal action developed by a lint cleaner.
Reduced Formaldehyde Release in Durable-Press Finishing of Cotton Textiles
Authors: Cashen Nortok A.
Published: March 2008

Carbohydrazide, used with the N-methylol reagents commonly employed in durable-press (DP) finishing of cotton, considerably reduced formaldehyde release normally associated with fabrics treated with these agents. The DP reagents investigated were dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea, dimethylolethyleneurea, and N-methylolated alkyl carbamates. When carbohydrazide was incorporated with the DP finishing system in treating reactive-dyed cotton fabric, color fastness was also improved. A striking improvement in depth of dye shade resulted when this chemical was applied with the DP finish before the textile was acid dyed.
A Systematic Approach to the Description of the Properties of Some Spin-Finish Components
Authors: McGrecor Thomas R.
Published: March 2008

A method for the description of molecules. known as molecular connectivity, has been used to correlate the physical properties of some surfactants with their molecular geometry. These results show that it is possible to relate chemical' structure to phyical properties of importance in textile processing.
Determination of Trivalent Phosph rus in Flame-Retardant Textiles
Authors: Soignet D.M. , Smith M.M.
Published: March 2008

The concentration of trivatent phosphorus P(III) in flame-retardant (FR) cotton and FR cotton/polyester blends can be determined indirectly by measurement of iodide with an iodide-ion-selective electiode. The amount of iodide measured is directly related to the H 2O2 used to oxidize the P(III) of the FR finish to pentavalent phosphorus P(V). The electrode method eliminates problems associated with the titrimetric determination of I2. The electrode method is applicable to the determination of P(III) in FR finishes prepared by THPC/urea, THPOH/urea/TMM, and THPOH/ NH3 processes.
Determination of Approximate Cotton Fiber Fineness Using the Digital Fibrograph
Authors: Nayar S.G. , Munshi V.G. , Syndaram V.
Published: March 2008

A method has been suggested to utilize the Digital Fibrograph to derive an optical fineness coefficient, which would correlate very well with gravimetric fiber-fineness measurements. Regression equations have been worked out to predict equivalent values of linear density from measurement of the optical fineness coellicient. A comparative study has also been made of the extent of association of the respective Micronaire values as well as values of the optical fineness co efficient with actual gravimetric fineness measurements.
Specific Antibody Response of Rabbits to Water Extracts of Cotton Dust and Bract
Authors: Sekul Antonio A. , Ory Robert L.
Published: March 2008

Aqueous extracts of cotton dust and cotton bract induced antibody formation in immunized rabbits. Specific reactions were obtained between the antigens and the antisera to both antigens, indicating common antigenic determinants. No reaction occurred with normal rabbit serum.
The Systematic Cutting and Stretch-Breaking of Disoriented Slivers
Authors: Harrowfield B.V.
Published: March 2008

Models are presented of the systematic cutting and stretch-breaking of slivers in which the fibers arc considered to be straight but angled to the sliver axis. The efliciency with which cutting and breaking will shorten the longer fibers in the sliver is discussed. Cutting becomes more competitive than breaking when the fibers are highly misaligned. By increasing the draft, the efficiency of the breaker is improved. The production of short fiber by each technique is considered, and a simple experiment shows that the relative effectiveness of stretch breaking increases substantially with alignment.
A New Look at Cotton-Fiber Tensile Fracture
Authors: Hehert J.J.
Published: March 2008

A novel technique has been used to study cotton-fiber fracture. Single-fiber tensile tests are photographed through a polarizing microscope with a movie camera. Photomicrographs from the movie films show that structural reversals in the fiber helix are not inherent weak points. Other information, not available by normal test procedures, is recorded in the movie frames.
Measurement and Interpretation of Fabric Dynamic Modulus
Authors: Blyth G. , Postle R.
Published: March 2008

There is a need for information concerning the dynamic mechanical properties of textile materials if their performance characteristics are to be described completely. Of the methods available for measuring dynamic elastic modulus, the acoustic pulse-propagation technique seems to have many advantages in terms of versatility, accuracy, and simplicity of use with respect to textile materials. In this paper the sonic or initial dynamic modulus of a range of planar fibrous structures is described. The results for woven fabrics have been quantitatively analyzed in terms of the direction of orientation of the fabric relative to the warp and weft directions. The maximum and minimum values of dynamic modulus have been measured for a range of paper and paper-like materials and woven and knitted fabrics; they are interpreted in terms of their basic structural features. The translation of dynamic mechanical properties from fiber through yarn to finished fabric is explained in terms of the sonic-modulus measurements; the roles of yarn-bending properties and lateral pressure acting within the fabric have been investigated. Ideas for further development of the technique and its application to the study of fabric mechanics are presented.
New Spindle Tip Reduces Spinning Yarn Tension and Tension-Related Ends Down
Authors: Taylor Robert A. , Graham John S.
Published: March 2008

A newly-developed spindle tip to control yarn tension was mounted on the top of a conventional ring-frame spindle. Yarn tension was measured with a transducer located between the front drafing rolls and the thread guide. Tensions and properties were compared between yarns spun with and without the spindle tip; comparison are presented for an entire bobbin fill and for spindle speeds from 10 000 to 14 600 rpm. Spindle tips with shanks of different diameters were studied. Yarn tension was recorded for several thread-guide positions. In all tests, use of the new spindle tip reduced yarn tension by 75 to 90% and improved yarn properties slightly.
Thermally-Stimulated Depolarization-Current Studies in Thermoelectrets of Cotton and Staple Viscose Rayon
Authors: Pillai P.K.C. , Mollah M.
Published: March 2008

Results of thermally-stimulated discharge currents from polarized cotton and viscose rayon, for different polarizing conditions, have been given. Definite evidence of field-induced polarization has been found. Depolarization kinetics data— viz. activation energy, relaxation time, etc.—for the process responsible for polarization or depolarization have been presented. Glass-transition temperatures of dry cotton cellulose and viscose rayon were found to be ∼305°C and ∼310°C, respectively. Cotton cellulose does not degrade even at 350°C, whereas degradation in viscose rayon starts at ∼340°C.
Factors Affecting the Lint Shedding of Cotton Knitting Yams
Authors: Ruppenicker George F. , Lofton John T.
Published: March 2008

The effects of fiber properties, yarn structure, knitting conditions, and yarn treatments on the lint-shedding tendencies of ring-span cotton knitting yarns were determined. Lint shedding of ring-spun and open-end spun yarns were compared. Cotton-polyester blends were also evaluated. Lint shedding increased as fiher length decreased. Increasing yarn twist produced almost a linear decrease in lint shedding. Finer yarns shed more lint than coarser yarns. Knitting conditions favoring reduced lint shedding were slower speeds, lower yarn and fabric tensions, and longer stitch lengths. Lint shedding was reduced substantially by sizing and waxing the yarns. Open-end-spun yarns shed less than carded ring-spun yarns but more than combed ring-spun yarns. Blending polyester with cotton reduced lint shedding in proportion to the amount of polyester added.
Absorbency of Terry Towels: A Comparative Evaluation of Test Methods
Authors: Cary Richard T. , Sproles George B.
Published: March 2008

Five test methods were compared on their potential for measuring the moisture absorhency ("thirstiness") of terry towels. The comparison was made by using both survey and laboratory techniques to determine the overall utility of each test for research applications. The results indicate that the Porous Plate and Sliding Block Methods have potential for measuring the moisture absorbency of towels. However, both tests have strengths and limitations, and the particular test chosen will depend on the researcher's needs.
Intermicrofibrillar Linkages in α-Keratin Fibers
Authors: Feughelman M.
Published: March 2008

The mechanical behavior of wool keratin fibers in different solutions of formic acid in water suggests that up to a solution concentration of 70% formic acid in water the microfibrils are intact. The diametral swelling of the fiber to gether with the longitudinal contraction in these solutions is compatible with the presence of intermicrofibrillar linkages spaced at a distance of the order of 10 nm longitudinally along the microfihrils. The behavior in torsion and extension of wet wool fibers with chemically-reduced disulphide contents, and with biologically-increased disulphide content, strongly points to the nonhelical "tails" of the low-sulphur protein fraction in the keratin fiber being involved in the formation of the intermicrofibrillar linkages. The presence of intermicrofihrillar linkages is also supported by the me chanical behavior of wool fibers during the period of the transient of the water front entering a fiber when a dry fiber is exposed to a wet or high humidity environment.
The Influence of Front-Roll Coverings on the Spinning Strength of Cotton
Authors: Taylor Robert A. , Graham John S.
Published: March 2008

An apparatus for measuring the force required to pull an end down during spinning was developed. The apparatus, a single-spindle duplication of the Tru-Set (Saco-Lowell Duo-Roth) spinning frame, was modifed to provide for pneumatic loading of the front drafting rolls. Four hundred end breaks on a single cotton were recorded for each spinning strength test point. Six front-roll coverings having different hardness and composition were tested for spinning strength at roll loading from 89 to 178 N (20-40 1b). Surface frictional properties against cotton roving were measured. Variables such as roll diameter buffing amount, running hours, and roller age were considered. Test results show that surface friction coemcient dominates spinning strength performance, and the spitming strength provided by one roll actually decreased with increasing roll load.
Fiber Lubricant Properties and Dynamic Mechanical Properties of Polyoxyalkylene Fluids
Authors: Koenig H. Steve , Bryant George M.
Published: March 2008

A correlation of the dynamic mechanical properties of various polyoxyalkylene lubricants with their yarn-to-metal lubricant behavior reveals that the glass-transition temperature (Tg) and the sliding speed for maximum frictional force ( Umax) are related to the reciprocal of the lubricant number average molecular weight ( Mn). In accord with accepted theory, the linear polyoxyalkylene fluids display a linearly decreasing Tg and a linearly increasing Umax versus the recip rocal of Mn. Branched polyoxyalkylene (triol) fluids, on the other hand, unexpectedly display a linearly increasing Tg as a function of the reciprocal of Mn, and Umax is independent of Mn. The distinct difference in the fundamental behavior of the linear and branched lubricants is attributed in part to their hydrogen-bonding characteristics. The frictional and dynamic mechanical properties are not affected by the alkylene oxide composition (ethylene oxide/propylene oxide ratio) nor the block or random arrangement of the monomer units within the polymer.
Study on Electrostatic Spinning
Authors: Miura Yoshito , Kase Susumu
Published: March 2008

An electrostatic spinning system consisting of fiber-opening roll, electrostatic field for formation of yarn, yarn twister, and take-up roll developed by the authors is described. The opening roll covered with garnet wires opens the entangled fibers, and individual fibers are blown to the electrostatic field by the centrifuge of the roll. It was found that the opening-roll diameter should be increased with increasing fiber length to insure best performance and to prevent roll wraps. The electrostatic field is created by a pair of cone electrodes facing each other either in horizontal or vertical arrangement. In the horizontal type, the yarn formed is drawn out of the electrostatic field through a small hole at the tip of the cathode. In the vertical type, the cathode is placed above the anode, with the yarn drawn out of a small hole at the tip of the anode. The yarn twister resembles the false twister, and the take-up roll is driven by friction. The size and the shape of electrodes, the distance between the electrode pair, the geometry of fiber supply to the electrostatic field, and the air-conditioning, etc. were found to affect the fiber yield. Vertically-positioned electrodes were found to be better than horizontal ones with respect to the filer yield and compactness of the equipment. Revolving anode and sharply-pointed cathode were found to be effective in straightening bent fibers, thereby obtaining uniform yarns.
The Isolation of Cotton Plant Components by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography
Authors: Gilbert R.D. , Fornes R.E. , Wang A. , Lee K.S.
Published: March 2008

The use of high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) to separate components of extracts of cotton bracts is described. A chloroform extract of the aqueous extract of the bracts and an ethanol extract of the dried aqueous extracts were used. The facile separation of 1,7-dihydroxy-4-isopropyl-1,6-dimethyl-2(1H)-naphthalenone (lacinilene C), its 7 methyl ether, and β-sitosterol from the chloroform extract, and 7-hydroxy-6-methoxycoumarin (scopoletin), cinnamic acid, and hydroxy cinnamic acid from the ethanol extract illustrate the capability of HPLC to separate the complex mixture of compounds in cotton plant parts. Preliminary separations by preparative thin-layer chromatography gave several major bands, but the HPL chromatograms showed that each band contains the same compounds, though in varying concentration, demonstrating the higher resolution of HPLC. Scopoletin was a major component in both extracts. Cinnamic and hydroxy cinnamic acids were identified by GC/MS. The other compounds were identified by pmr spectroscopy.
The Noncrystalline State Within PET Fibers—Meaning and Characterization by Mechanical-Relaxation Measurements
Authors: Valk Giselher , Jellinek Günter , Schröder Ulrich
Published: March 2008

The performance of synthetic fibers cannot be completely understood without any knowledge of the structure in the noncrystalline regions. X-ray diffraction measurements led to the conclusion that the noncrystalline regions in PET fibers can be divided into isotropic noncrystalline (amorphous) and oriented noncrystalline fractions, the amount of which is dependent on the thermal and mechanical history. But x-ray diffraction data, thermal analysis, and dyeing experiments left many effects unexplained: the dependence of glass-transition and dye uptake on thermal history, the real order-disorder situation within the noncrystalline regions, certain mechanical properties, and their time-dependence such as relaxation. The glass-transition temperature Tg of PET fibers, as determined by viscoelastic measurements, runs through a maximum depending on the heat-setting conditions. This can be explained by the assumption that the average size of crystallites reaches a minimum, and therefore the number of crystallites per unit volume shows maximum values at a heat-setting temperature of about 190°C. By raising the heat-setting temperature above 190°C, the crystal lites become larger. Segregation of the crystallites in the noncrystalline matrix occurs.

If the network formed by the crystallites has its highest density, Tg shows maximum, and dye uptake, minimum values due to low molecular mobility. For the same reason the storage modulus in the rubber state has maximum values after heat-setting at temperatures around 190°C.
Technique for Predicting Dust Release from Cotton Fibers1
Authors: Ross Stanley E.
Published: March 2008

A technique has been devised that predicts the respirable-dust-releasing tendency of cotton fibers. The method is based on the carding of a 70-g fiber sample over an 8-min time period using a small version of the standard cotton card. The dust particles released, with diameters up to approximately 10 μm, are measured by the TSI Respirable Aerosol Mass Monitor or other suitable measuring in strument. This procedure has been found useful in evaluating a wide range of variables having an effect on cotton dust levels. Factors such as surface-additive dust suppressants and their ageing properties, washing of cotton, mechanical cleaning devices, and fiber blend levels, among others, have been examined and are discussed. A correspondence has been noted with results obtained using this technique and those obtained with the vertical elutriator.
USDA Natural Fiber Blend Research1
Authors: Louis Gain L. , Pardo Clay E.
Published: March 2008

The processing of cotton/wool blends on the cotton system to produce yarns for fabrics for flight- crews' uniforms was investigated. Fibers (a combed Acala 1517-V cotton, a stretch-broken 64s wool, and a cut 64s wool) were blended in various percentages during drawing. The 39-mg/m (Neo = 15/1) yarns with different twists were spun on both the ring and open-end spinning systems to form warp and filling yarns. These yarns were made into 2/2 right-hand twill fabrics. Optimum processing variables for roving and ring-spinning processes are given. Yarn and fabric data from the ring and open-end spun lots are compared with corresponding worsted lots. In general, ring-spun yarns ranked first, open-end-spun yarns second, and worsted yarns third in pertinent yarn properties. In gray fabrics, ring yarn ranked first, worsted second, and open-end third. High-quality products of cotton/ wool blends can be produced on the cotton system.
Wool Stabilization by Aqueous Exhaust Systems Based on Reactive Aliphatic Diisocyanates
Authors: Pardo C.E. , Foster R.E.
Published: March 2008

The development of a single-bath, exhaust treatment for shrink-resisting wool is described. The process involves dispersing a solvent solution containing a fully-reactive cycloaliphatic diisocyanate monomer and cationic emulsifying agent into water, exhausting the monomer on fabric at low tem perature, and then adding a polyamine to form, in situ, a wash-fast polyurea finish on the fiber surfaces. Following polymerization, the fabric is scoured, rinsed, neutralized, and tumble-dried. In its present state of development, the process seems most suitable for treating knitwear; however, it also exhibits a potential for dyebeck application to woven fabrics. Effective shrinkage control is obtained on both clear-worsted and wash-finished knit constructions with tightness factor ranging from 9.0 to 17.3.
Controlled Add-On to Reduce Upholstery Ignition1
Authors: Donaldson Darrell J. , Harper Robert J.
Published: March 2008

A method of imparting smolder resistance to cotton upholstery fabrics with conventional finishing equipment and with minimum wet pick-up to reduce energy consumption is described. Borax is dissolved by an acidic compound and is applied together with a nitrogenous resin such as methylated methylolmelamine to cotton fabrics by the loop-transfer technique. The effect of placement of treatment, fabric weight, and the addition of latex on smoldering are examined. Properties such as colorfastness, strength, air permeahility, and abrasion resistance are reported.
The Use of Ionizing Radiation for Fixing Textile Resins on Wool
Authors: McLaren K.G.
Published: March 2008

Ambient-temperature treatments with ionizing radiation can be used as an alternative to conventional thermal/ catalytic cure methods of fixing textile resins on wool materials. The effectiveness of the radiation-induced fixation of resins on wool has been demonstrated by machine-wash shrinkage tests on fabrics treated with a variety of commercial polymer resins.
Wrinkle-Resistant Cotton by Photo-Initiated Reaction with N-Methylolacrylamide Followed by Crosslinking Reactions1
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Arthur Jett C.
Published: March 2008

A wrinkle-resistant cotton fabric was produced by photo-initiated, free-radical reaction with N- methylolacrylamide monomer from aqueous solution to form a poly(N-methylolacrylamide) copolymer, followed by crosslinking reactions of the methylol groups of the copolymer with cellulose. The product had increased conditioned and wet wrinkle-recovery angles and retained breaking and tearing strengths and stiffness values in the ranges normally obtained for wrinkle-resistant cottons. The efficiency of the conversion of monomer to polymer was greater when the cotton-monomer solution was irradiated wet than when it was irradiated dry, and greater when irradiated with 254- and 300-nm ultraviolet light than when irradiated with 350-nm light. Catalysts used to initiate reaction of methylol groups were about equally effective whether they were included in the initial monomer solution or added to modi fied cotton fabric after copolymer formation.
New Methods of Texturing Polyester/Viscose Blended Yarns by Simultaneous Setting of the Components
Authors: Sengupta A.K. , Bajaj P. , Sen K.
Published: March 2008

A two-ply 50/50 polyester/viscose spun yarn was textured by the twist-set-detwist process through simultaneous setting of the components. The setting methods employed were 1) heat-setting plus dry-crosslinking by the use of resins at high curing temperatures, and 2) solvent-setting plus wet- crosslinking by a solution of epichlorohydrin in tetrachloroethane. It is observed that while the mechanical properties and crimp-rigidity values of the yarns produced by the two methods are com parable, method 2 produces yarn with a higher wet retractability and a considerably higher dye uptake.
The Quantification of Fabric Extinguishability
Authors: Miller Bernard , Martin J. Ronald , Meiser Charles H.
Published: March 2008

A method has been developed for quantifying the extinguishability of burning fabrics which sepa rates extinguishability due to thermal loss from that due to blocking the transport of vaporized fuel and/or oxygen to the combustion zone. The maximum rate of heat emission during upward burning is measured using convective calorimetry for freely-hanging samples having asbestos paper stapled to one side in several arrangements. The mass of the heat sink is varied by using different numbers of asbestos layers; the vapor transport barrier is varied by drilling different numbers of holes in the asbestos. It is found that vapor blockage generally affects extinguishment to a much greater extent than heat loss. In addition, the effectiveness of the barrier is different for different fabrics, so that extinguishability ranking in terms of heat-emission rate depends on whether or not the fabrics are burned in contact with an inert substrate.
Some Factors Affecting the Adhesion Between Wool Fibers and a Polyurethane Elastomer
Authors: Cook J.R. , Fleischfresser B.E.
Published: March 2008

The work to break the adhesive bond between wool and a polyurethane elastomer was found to depend on the surface tension of the liquid in which the composite was immersed. The work of ad hesion was also dependent on the temperature and the rate of separation of wool and polymer, which suggests that viscoelastic energy losses in the substrates also contributed to the adhesion between them. Perchloroethylene, which swells the polymer, decreased the work of adhesion relative to that observed in aqueous surfactant solutions of the same surface tension.
Analysis of Fiber Blends. Part II. Determination of Blend Composition by Moisture Regain
Authors: Kumar Raj , Srivastava H.C.
Published: March 2008

A simple nondestructive method for the quantitative analysis of textile fiber blends has been sug gested. The method requires measurement of moisture regain of the blend and its component fibers. Experimental studies have been made with cotton-viscose, polyester-wool, and cotton-wool blends. For comparison, blends have also been analyzed by known chemical methods. It has been found that, in all cases, moisture regain of the blend can be obtained by linear combination of the moisture regains of its constitutent fibers.
Effect of Abrasion on Stress-Strain Properties of Two Polyester/ Cotton Fabrics in Low-Level Laboratory Abrasion and Wear Trials
Authors: Raheel Mastura
Published: March 2008

The effect of laboratory flex abrasion at low levels on two 65/35 and 50/50 polyester/cotton fabrics, as well as the effect of wearing of shirts made from the same fabrics, as mirrored in stress- strain properties, were investigated. Abrasive damage was monitored by measuring percent reten tion of breaking load, yield point, elastic limits, and elongation at rupture after varying levels of laboratory flex abrasion and wear plus laundering. Subjective evaluations by microscopic analysis of fabrics and yarns were also made, as well as evaluations by a panel of judges in regard to surface appearance, whiteness retention, and hand of the in-service shirts.

A quantitative relationship could not be established between laboratory abrasion and in-service wear, because the stresses imposed during in-service wear were not high enough to produce the nature and extent of damage observed in laboratory abrasion. However, the two types of abrasion were similar enough that the properties being monitored changed in a similar fashion.

It is concluded that the (Stoll) flex abrasion technique employed in this work has limited utility in predicting in-service wear, and that at low levels of abrasion 50/50 polyester/cotton performed as well as 65/35 polyester/cotton with the added quality of superior comfort associated with the cotton component.
Polymerization-Crosslinking of N-Methylolmethacrylamide in Cotton Fabric
Authors: Shih Frederick F. , Bertoniere Noelie R. , Rowland Stanley P.
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabric treated with N-methylolmethacrylamide (NMMA) was compared to corresponding products treated with N-methylolacrylamide (NMA). Variations included type of cotton fabric, extent of methylolation of NMMA or NMA, concentration of reagent, and cure conditions. NMMA imparted high levels of resilience, comparable to those from NMA and dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea, together with superior retentions of strengths and abrasion resistance. A nitrogen atmosphere for cures was beneficial for the NMMA and NMA reactions, primarily for high retentions of strengths and abrasion resistance. However, even when cured in air, NMMA cottons were superior to NMA cottons cured in air or nitrogen in retentions of strengths and abrasion resistance.
Spin Finishes Explained
Authors: Postman W.
Published: March 2008

s from the patent literature are used to explain what spin finishes are, the properties they must possess, the constituents of which they are composed, how they are applied, how the amount applied is determined, and how they can be used, with additional constituents, to modify fiber properties.
The Effects of Cleaning in the Opening Room and at the Card on Rotor Residue for Open-End Machines
Authors: Simpson Jack
Published: March 2008

The effect of cleaning in the opening room and at the card on rotor trash accumulation was in vestigated. Studies were done for a commercial machine without a trash cleaner, for one with a trash cleaner, and for a small-sample, four-rotor Spintester with a trash cleaner that could be closed. For the machine without the cleaner, extra cleaning in the opening room slightly reduced rotor trash accumulation. However, good carding conditions greatly reduced the trash accumulation. For the machine with the cleaner, extra opening-room cleaning had no effect, and carding had only a slight effect on rotor trash accumulation. Feed slivers that contained relatively large trash particles, primarily organic material, yielded greater rotor trash accumulation than those that contained rela tively small trash particles. The increase was large for the machine without a trash cleaner, and small for the machine with an efficient trash cleaner, rotor combination.
Dye-Fiber Bond Stabilities of Reactive Dyes Containing Phosphonic Acid Groups
Authors: Gisler Markus , Zollinger Heinrich
Published: March 2008

Dyes containing phosphonic acid groups as reactive links to be bonded to cellulose hydroxyl groups have been recently introduced into commercial use. In this investigation, the stability of the dye-fiber bond in reactive dyeings of this type on cotton fabrics has been determined by measurement of the rate of hydrolysis in the pH-range 2.2-8.6 at 98°C. The results demonstrate that this class of reactive dyes has dye-fiber bond stabilities that are in the same range as those of the other major classes of reactive dyes investigated previously. The dye-fiber bond stabilities reflect the wet-fastness properties of these dyeings.
The Determination of the Degree of Migration of Easy-Care Chemicals in Cotton Fabrics
Authors: De Boer J.J.
Published: March 2008

Migration of reactant solutions during finishing results in a poor balance between crease recovery and abrasion resistance. A staining technique is developed that enables migration to be traced. For a number of differently-pretreated fabrics, containing increasing amounts of reactant, the relations between the reactant content, the amount of dyestuff, and the color depth were established.
A Rapid Method for Determining the Sorption Characteristics of Textile Materials 1
Authors: Finnimore Elizabeth D. , Wortmann Franz-J.
Published: March 2008

A new method is presented for the rapid determination of the water-sorption properties of wool over the complete range of relative humidities. The apparatus and method of operation are described, and an example of a sorption curve for merino wool top is given.
The Effect of Reversing the Amide Chromaphore on some Dye Properties of the Naphthol AS Series
Authors: Hall David M. , Bickel Wilford O. , Murray J. Scot , Hoesterey Barbara L.
Published: March 2008

The synthesis and dyeing properties of seven naphthol dyes of the AS Series, different from the parent compound only in that the amide chromaphore group is reversed, is presented. Although the naphthols appear brighter in color than regular naphthols when coupled to the fast-color bases, they are more difficult to apply in application and no not appear to offer any significant advantage over the conventional products in their textile properties. Further, reversing the amide chromaphore appears to inhibit the contribution of the naphthoic substituent to color development.
Machine-Washable, Water- and Oil-Repellent, Flame-Retardant Wool
Authors: Benisek L. , Craven P.C.
Published: March 2008

Shrink-resist treatments based on chemical degradative processes and the chlorine/Hercosett treatment, while compatible with the Zirpro flame-retardant treatment, decrease the water-repellency of wool. Addition of fluorocarbons improved the water-repellency of chlorine/Hercosett- and Zirpro- treated wool, but this was inferior to fluorocarbon-treated Zirpro wool without a chemical shrink- resist treatment, particularly after washing. Chemical shrink-resist treatments, in the absence of Hercosett, decreased the fastness of oil-repellent treatments to washing. Application of fluorocarbons by the exhaustion technique with Zirpro produced a higher degree of water-repellency than application by padding. Application of chlorine/Hercosett by the exhaustion technique to wool in fabric form was successfully followed by the Zirpro treatment without intermediate drying, indicating insolubilization of the polyamide-epichlorhydrin resin on the wool fiber, after exhaustion in alkaline conditions. When an untreated fabric, dimensionally stable to washing, was treated with the Zirpro treatment, this was fast to at least 20 washes at 60°C. Several multipurpose finishes avoiding the use of chemical degrada tive shrink-resist treatments were evaluated. Wool fabric construction and weight influence the effectiveness of a flame-retardant multipurpose finish, particularly after washing.
Random Errors of Observation in the Measurement of Fiber Diameter by Projection-Microscope Methods
Authors: Lunney H.W.M.
Published: March 2008

The readings comprising the measurement of fiber diameter on two tops by the projection micro scope were perturbed by moving one-quarter of the readings in each histogram element to the element next below and one-quarter to the element next above, thus simulating random error of observation. It is shown that the resulting increase in between-fiber variance may be neglected. It is further shown that, in the CSIRO Fiber Fineness Distribution Analyser, which is in effect an automatic projection- microscope method, the variance observed between mean diameters is greater than can be accounted for by the observed between-fiber variance, which in turn is greater than can be accounted for by random error of observation, thus implying a source of systematic error in the measurement of between- fiber variance.
Determination of Fineness and Maturity of Cotton by Air-Flow Methods
Authors: Rajaraman G.S.
Published: March 2008

Certain basic relations between the cross-sectional parameters of the cotton fiber have been obtained and their direct application for determining the cotton fineness and maturity explained. These may be used, with advantage, in place of the empirical relations derived from the values of various cross-sectional parameters physically measured on selected cotton types and currently used for estimat ing the fineness and maturity of cotton by air-flow methods.
Infrared Spectroscopy of Polyethylene Terephthalate Fibers: Uses and Limitations
Authors: Garton A. , Carlsson D.J. , Wiles D.M.
Published: March 2008

The potential of Fourier-Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy for characterizing polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibers is examined both from a practical and a theoretical view point. Problems associated with sample preparation, spectral data analysis, and refraction and reflection at the fiber surfaces are discussed. The FTIR technique is used to characterize a range of partially-oriented PET fibers with differing fabrication histories and to determine the level of amorphous orientation in drawn PET fibers.
Performance Properties of Cottons at Two Levels of Durable-Press and Conditioned Wrinkle-Recovery Angles
Authors: Gonzales Elwood J. , Rowland Stanley P.
Published: March 2008

Polymerization-crosslinking reagents such as N-methylolacrylamide, N-methylol- methacrylamide, and N-methylolpolyethyleneurea (dp = 3) (NMP-2) and conven tional crosslinking agents such as dimethylolethyleneurea, dimethyloldihydroxyethyl eneurea, and formaldehyde were used to treat cotton twill fabrics. A concentration study with these reagents was carried out, and physical and chemical properties of the finished fabrics were compared. Strength and abrasion properties of treated fabrics at two levels of DP and conditioned WRA were also determined. The results indicated that the experimental reagents capable of undergoing polymerization as well as crosslinking within the cellulose substrate afford a superior balance of strength and abrasion properties. NMP-2 appears to be most stable to loss of formaldehyde among the polymer-forming reagents studied and most sensitive to loss of breaking strength from scorching following treatment with chlorine bleach.