bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
FTIR Spectroscopy Study of Ester Crosslinking of Cotton Cellulose Catalyzed by Sodium Hypophosphite
Authors: Yang Charles Q.
Published: April 2011

In previous research, we found that sodium hypophosphite (NaH2PO2) reduces the temperature required for the formation of anhydride intermediates by polycarboxylic acids. We also found that a chemical reaction between the anhydride intermediate of 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) and NaH2PO2 takes place when the temperature rises above 200°C. In this research, we use Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy and thermal analysis to confirm that NaH2PO2 reacts with cis-1,2-cyclohexanedicarboxylic anhydride (CHDN) at temperatures above 170°C. NaH2PO2 catalyzes the formation of the cyclic anhydride intermediate by 3-butene-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid (BTTA) on cotton. In the presence of NaH2PO2, BTTA forms a five-membered cyclic anhydride on cotton at temperatures as low as 120°C. However, no esterification takes place on the fabric at such temperatures. The data also indicate that NaH2PO2 reacts with the anhydride intermediate when the temperature rises above 180°C. We have found that esterification of cotton cellulose by BTTA takes place only when NaH2PO2 is present and the temperature is above 180°C. Therefore, the catalysis effects of NaH2PO2 for cotton esterification by BTTA are probably related to the reaction between NaH2PO2 and the anhydride intermediate.
Biomechanical Properties of Artificial Cranial Cruciate Ligaments
Authors: de Rooster Hilde , van Bree Henri , Vangheluwe Lieven , Van Langenhove Lieva , Ledoux Marian
Published: April 2011

In dogs, injury to the cranial cruciate ligament (CCL) is commonly repaired with artificial textile materials. The dynamic mechanical behavior of this textile product must be similar to the natural CCL of the dog. Therefore, a test method has been developed to analyze the mechanical properties of the CCL substitute in a realistic way. Modulus, elongation, and failure properties are assessed for braided polyester and braided polyamide potential CCL substitutes.
Effects of Dehydration on the Crystalline Structure and Strength of Developing Cotton Fibers
Authors: Hu Xiao-Ping , Hsieh You-Lo
Published: April 2011

Cotton fibers develop a significant crystalline structure during the first week of secondary wall synthesis. Marked increases in the degree of crystallinity, crystallite dimensions, and breaking forces occur between 20 and 30 days post-anthesis (dpa). As the fiber cells mature and dehydrate, the cylindrical tubes collapse into convoluted ribbons. The dried fibers have lower breaking strength and higher breaking elongation. Wide-angle x-ray diffraction and solid-state NMR results show lowered average crystallite dimensions with little change in the overall crystallinity upon dehydration. In developing cotton fibers, dehydration appears to cause decrystallization, distortion of crystal surfaces, and increased disorder in the intercrystal and interfibril regions, driven by removal of water during cell collapse and by the formation of new intermolecular secondary bonding. This, in turn, builds up stress at the molecular level, lowering strength and increasing crimp and elongation in the dried cottons.
Polyester Fiber and Microfiber Structure by Critical Dissolution Time
Authors: Diéval F. , Mathieu D. , Viallier P. , Durand B.
Published: April 2011

A polyester microfiber and two classic fibers from the same manufacturer are examined using the critical dissolution time in phenol. In order to characterize the structures, we subject the yarns to a heat setting process at different temperatures. The monofilaments are initially tested at constant phenol temperature. The results show that the microfiber has a structure allowing good diffusion of the solvent. This property remains true even after heat treatment. On the other hand, the classic fibers show a similar behavior. Measurements of crystallinity by x-ray diffraction show that the microfiber and the circular filament are very close. This indicates that super-drawing induces the creation of longitudinal crystal zones, which do not overlap very much. Finally, the activation energy confirms this assumption. The energy barrier of the microfiber remains weak despite its increase according to the heat setting temperature.
Microwave Radiation Decontamination of Mildew Infected Cotton
Authors: Chen Hsiou-Lien
Published: April 2011

The conditions (moisture, temperature, and time) of a 1000 W, 2.45 GHz household microwave oven required to decontaminate cotton textiles inoculated with mildew ( Aspergillus niger) are assessed. For samples initially saturated with water, 24 minutes of microwave irradiation kills mildew on 2″ × 2″ and 4″ × 4″ cotton samples with no significant damage to the fibers, but fails to decontaminate 6″ × 6″ samples. When extra water is added at intervals during the irradiation, it still takes 21 and 24 minutes to decontaminate the 2″ × 2″ and 4″ × 4″ cotton samples, respectively. Although these results indicate that microwave irradiation has potential as a tool for textile decontamination, limitations of conventional household microwave ovens ( e.g., low efficiency, nonuniform heating, and no continuous source of moisture) need to be assessed and at least partially rectified to render microwave treatment a viable practical tool for textile decontamination.
Nondestructive Measurement of Mechanical Properties of Wool Fabrics by an Acoustic Emission Method
Authors: Bao Guoping , Kronick Paul L. , Marmer William N.
Published: April 2011

The mechanical properties of textiles are important because they define many of the performance characteristics of end-products. Stress-strain tests are commonly used to measure tensile properties, but stress-strain curves of woven textiles are monotonic up to the breaking point and provide little information about events during stretching. We use acoustic emission spectroscopy to characterize the mechanical properties of a wide variety of materials, including some textiles. We investigate the mechanical properties of two woolen fabrics, correlating the stress-strain curves with acoustic emission events. Our results indicate that cumulative acoustic emission is a nondestructive indicator of incipient fabric damage and can be used as a quality control test in fabric manufacturing.
Automatic Structure Analysis and Objective Evaluation of Woven Fabric Using Image Analysis
Authors: Kang Tae Jin , Choi Soo Hyun , Kim Sung Min , Oh Kyung Wha
Published: April 2011

An automatic fabric evaluation system has been developed to automatically analyze the structure of woven fabric and objectively evaluate fabric quality. Fabric images are captured by a CCD camera and preprocessed by Gaussian filtering and histogram equalization. Fabric construction parameters such as count, cloth cover, yarn crimp, fabric thickness, and weight per unit area are measured automatically from planar and cross-sectional images of woven fabric with image processing and image analysis. Results obtained with the system show good correspondence with experimental values. In order to evaluate the quality of woven fabric, defects such as slubs or missing picks are detected successfully from defect images, and the uniformity of yarn spacing and orthogonality of the yarn intersecting angle are determined from normal fabric images. The coefficients of variation of yarn spacing and the yarn intersecting angle are measured quantitatively so that quality can be compared using these values.
Pressure Model of Elastic Fabric for Producing Pressure Garments
Authors: Ng S. F. , Hui C. L.
Published: April 2011

This paper develops an objective method of drafting pressure garments to provide predetermined skin-and-garment interfacial pressures on patients. To predict interfacial pressure induced by different sizes of pressure garments on a particular curved surface of the human body, the relationship between the tensile properties of an elastic fabric, the curvature of the contoured surface, and the skin-and-garment interfacial pressure can be formulated in a mathematical expression. Tubular garment samples are prepared from an elastic fabric, and their circumference is measured on the upper limb of a human subject before and after compression. Thus, the compression factor on the upper limb is worked out and used to predict the size of an elastic fabric reduction for the required skin-and-garment interfacial pressure. By measuring the interfacial pressure on five human subjects with the Oxford pressure monitor MKII, the required interfacial pressure is obtained with a very small variance σ2 in the actual performance of the tubular garment.
Modifying an Existing Numerical Shade Sorting System Through Cluster Analysis
Authors: Li Y. S. W. , Yuen C. W. M. , Yeung K. W. , Sin K. M.
Published: April 2011

Our previous study compared the effectiveness of Clemson color clustering (CCC) shade sorting, originating at Clemson University, with a shade sorting process called K-means, originating at the Indian Institute of Technology. We proved that these two methods were suitable for shade sorting since their performance was very much alike. These results have led to a study of modifications of the CCC shade sorting process by combining hierarchical and nonhierarchical algorithms into a single process in order to improve the effectiveness of shade sorting.
Appearance Analysis of False Twist Textured Yarn Packages Using Image Processing and Neural Network Technology
Authors: Chiu Shih-Hsuan , Chen Hung-Ming , Chen Jyh-Yeow , Wen Che-Yen
Published: April 2011

Traditionally, the quality grades of false twist yarn (FTY) packages are classified by human inspection, but the result may be affected by personal, subjective factors. In this paper, we extract the defect features of FTY packages, such as size, discoloration, formation, and cross-over, with image processing technology and use neural networks to classify the quality grades of FTY packages. From the experimental results, we can obtain a classifying rate of about 90%.
Analyzing Temperature Dependent Shrinkage Stress Evolution in High Speed Spun, High Molecular Weight Poly(ethylene Terephthalate) Filaments
Authors: Lim Jung Yul , Kim Sang Yong
Published: April 2011

The effects of fiber structure on temperature-dependent shrinkage stress evolution in high speed spun, high molecular weight poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) filaments are investigated. Based on the hypothesis that thermal stress evolution with temperature is a relaxation spectrum of a series of oriented structural elements, a measured shrinkage stress/temperature curve is fitted using a model that is the sum of three component peaks. The model, composed of three Pearson-Pisa functions, describes the experimental curves very well. Variations in fiber structure such as amorphous orientation and crystalline development are reflected signally in changes in the calculated curve parameters of component peaks. The curve resolution analysis reveals the contribution of each kind of ordered region to the entire shrinkage stress evolution in high speed spun, high molecular weight PET filaments and its variation with fiber structure.
Modeling and Identifying the Parameters of a Fabric Drape Model
Authors: Bruniaux Pascal , Vasseur Christian
Published: April 2011

This paper presents a draped fabric model and identification methods for obtaining unknown parameters of the model. In the first part of this paper, we present a summary of previous works that have contributed to scientific advances in this topic. We then detail the mathematical model developed to simulate the dynamic behavior of a draped fabric. The second part is entirely devoted to identifying the parameters of this model, and its principal objective is to show that it is possible to obtain these parameters by means of tests that are currently used in the textile field. Finally, we present several simulations of a draped fabric, taking into account the model and the parameters obtained in practice.
Effect of Zinc Chloride on the Dyeability of Cotton with Bis(monofluoro-s-triazine) Dye
Authors: Gorenšek Marija , Recelj Petra , Bukošek Vili
Published: April 2011

The effect on dyeability with monobifunctional reactive dyes of a cotton fabric treated under different conditions in a 65% solution of zinc chloride is investigated using an all-in jet dyeing process. The degree of dye fixation is determined spectrophotometrically by measuring the absorbance of the dyebath, rinsing, washing, and soaping solutions at λ max. The dyeing rate and half-dyeing times of CI: RRE 268 at 70°C are defined. Changes in breaking stress, breaking elongation, and fabric shrinkage are monitored after treatment in the 65% zinc chloride solution. Changes in amorphous regions are detected using the DSC method. Our results show that the degree of dye fixation to substrate can be increased by pretreatment in the zinc chloride solution. Fabric pretreated in zinc chloride exhibits higher breaking stress and elongation, but pretreatment in zinc chloride also causes fabric shrinkage.
Mathematical Modeling of the Diffusion Coefficient for Disperse Dyes
Authors: Casetta Mathilde , Koncar Vladan , Cazé Claude
Published: April 2011

The kinetics of dyeing polyester fibers with disperse dyes is extremely complex. For a given dye/fiber system, the dye uptake rate is controlled by several experimental parameters such as temperature, initial dye concentration, and diffusion coefficients. Hill and Wilson established dyeing rate equations, but unlike them, we believe that the diffusion coefficient of a disperse dye into polyester fibers is not constant during the whole dyeing process. So using Wilson and Hill's equations and our own experimental results, we have computed the diffusion coefficient value at each sampling time throughout the dyeing process. In this paper, we discuss a mathematical model describing the evolution of the diffusion coefficient for disperse dyes as a function of time, initial dye concentration, and the nature of the dyebath (finite or infinite).
Woven Fabric Analysis by Image Processing. Part II: Computing the Twist Angle
Authors: Huang Chang-Chiun , Liu Sun-Chong
Published: April 2011

We present an efficient and nondestructive way to compute fiber angles and twist angles of yarns using image processing. The pixels over the floats in an image that can portray fiber paths are detected and labeled, then the labeled pixels are connected to a chain-coded curve by tracing the path of individual fibers. Thus, fiber angles are estimated by the trigonometric relationship between the measured rectangular components of the chain-coded curves. The approximate twist angle of a yarn is statistically computed from all the estimated fiber angles with this yarn. Experiments involve plain, twill, and satin fabrics, each with twenty specimens, and the results show good agreement with manual measurements.
Nontraditionally Retted Flax for Dry Cotton Blend Spinning
Authors: Kimmel Linda B. , Boylston Eileen K. , Goynes Wilton R. , Akin Danny E. , Henriksson Gunnar , Eriksson Karl-Erik L.
Published: April 2011

Extracting flax fibers from the stems of Linum usitatissimum plants has traditionally been a costly, labor-intensive process, largely restricted to Europe and Asia. The naturally long, strong fibers are typically processed on wet spinning machines that are not available in the United States. However, the resurgent popularity of flax has promoted an interest in devising more economical methods of producing and processing the fibers domestically. This preliminary study investigates the use of flax fibers extracted by mechanical, chemical, and enzymatic retting as well as traditional (dew) retting methods. The experimental fibers show promise for spinning on common cotton machinery in blends with cotton. The research has produced a series of medium-count, experimental apparel-grade yarns with an attractive appearance and acceptable hand. With refinement, chemical or enzyme retting can perhaps become an ecologically sound and cost effective method of producing flax fibers.
Effect of Aspect Ratio on Pressure Change of a Tubular Elastic Fabric
Authors: Ng S. F. , Hui C. L.
Published: April 2011

Elastic fabrics used to make pressure garments are normally cut in various sizes and different aspect ratios ( i.e., width of fabric divided by gauge length). Because the aspect ratio may vary the load-strain relationships measured from the elastic fabric, the resultant pressure of a tubular elastic fabric exerted on the cylindrical surface may vary. This study investigates the effect of aspect ratio of a tubular elastic fabric on pressure changes in making up pressure garments. Both the theoretical analysis and experimental study are presented, and results from both are in close agreement.
Applying Discrete Fourier Transform to the Knitting Process
Authors: Srdjak M. , Vrljičak Z.
Published: April 2011

The influence of knitting machine characteristics and yarn properties on tensions occurring in yarn during knitting is investigated. The process is dynamically analyzed by means of frequency analysis for three grades of cotton yarn fineness and two of wool yarn. Signal analysis done numerically using discrete Fourier transform (DFT) results in force signals with one-sided and double-sided spectra. Some characteristic signals are presented with appropriate DFT to help determine the influence of yarn, package quality, and yarn feeding on signal spectra.
Effect of Ultrasound on Disperse Dye Particle Size
Authors: Lee Keun Wan , Kim Jae Pil
Published: April 2011

The potential of ultrasound as a means of enhancing dyeing efficiency is evaluated. Changes in the particle sizes of a disperse dye dispersion with ultrasound irradiation are studied using the turbidity concept, and the effect of particle size on the exhaustion rate is also investigated. Ultrasound irradiation of a dye dispersion reduces the particle sizes of disperse dyes, and the exhaustion rate of the dyes on fibers is enhanced by this reduced particle size by the ultrasound pretreatment before dyeing experiments.
Pore Characterization of Cellulase Enzyme Treated Cotton Fabric
Authors: Li Chenghong , Ladisch Christine M. , Ladisch Michael R.
Published: April 2011

The pore volume and surface area of cotton fabric are dominant parameters in determining the accessibility of dyes and finishes during wet processing. Cellulase enzyme hydrolysis of cellulose may result in changes in pore volume and surface area of the fabric. This work characterizes these changes using size exclusion liquid chromatography with cotton in the form of rolled stationary phases, which are prepared by rolling and inserting a whole woven fabric into a chromatography column, and pore volume and surface area of the enzyme treated cotton are then determined. The volume and surface area of pores smaller than 60 Å in cotton fabric decreases after cellulase enzyme treatment, and does not change for pores larger than 60 Å. This method shows that enzyme hydrolysis significantly decreases small pores in cotton fabric. Direct dyed samples show no observable color difference between untreated and enzyme treated cotton.
Effect of Pressure Decatizing on Fabric Drape
Authors: Jeong Y. J. , Phillips D. G.
Published: April 2011

The effect of pressure decatizing on the draping properties of wool suiting fabrics is investigated across a range of typical decatizing conditions. The study shows that fabric drape depends on fabric mechanical properties, decatizing conditions, and fabric history. Analysis of the drape of a range of pure wool suiting fabrics shows that the fabric drape coefficient depends more strongly on bending length than on shear rigidity, factors that are established through cloth construction. However the effect of pressure decatizing on the fabric drape coefficient is more closely associated with changes in shear rigidity rather than bending length. Pressure decatizing has more effect on the drape of undyed fabrics than dyed ones. The drape of dyed fabrics changes only slightly after pressure decatizing, but the drape coefficient of dyed fabrics is still less than undyed fabrics, even after pressure decatizing. These results are consistent with a model including setting (stress relaxation) and allowing for a change of yarn geometry during dyeing. Small increases in the shear rigidity of dyed fabrics after pressure decatizing are consistent with the effect of lateral pressure on the fabric during decatizing.
Indigo Degradation with Laccases from Polyporus sp. and Sclerotium rolfsii
Authors: Campos Rui , Cavaco-Paulo Artur , Robra Karl-Heinz , Schneider Monika , Gübitz Georg
Published: April 2011

We have investigated the potential of fungal laccases from Polyporus sp. and Sclerotium rolfsii to degrade insoluble indigo. Evidence shows that both laccases are able to oxidize insoluble indigo to give isatin (indole-2,3-dione), which further degrades to anthranilic acid (2-aminobenzoic acid). Adsorption studies show that the laccase from Polyporus sp. has a higher affinity for indigo than the laccase of Sclerotium rolfsii. The particle size of indigo agglomerates is influenced by the origin of the laccase preparation and the incubation time. The potential of laccases to modify indigo stained fabrics is assessed. Treatment of indigo dyed fabrics with laccase prevents indigo backstaining, and Polyporus sp. appears to be more effective for reducing backstaining.
Direct Scouring of Greige Cotton Fabrics with Proteases
Authors: Lin Chien-Hua , Hsieh You-Lo
Published: April 2011

Our previous work demonstrated that proteases are effective scouring agents for boiling-water pretreated cotton fabrics. In this study, we investigate whether proteases are effective scouring agents when directly applied on raw greige cotton fabrics without the boiling water pretreatment. Direct reactions with three proteases, i.e., trypsin, chymotrypsin, and subtilisin, on greige cotton fabrics show that all three improve fabric wettability to a level similar to alkaline scouring under mild conditions (45-55°C, pH 7). The reaction conditions required to achieve optimal fabric wettability (cosθ > 0.6) are 5 g/L and 45°C for trypsin and 5 ml/L at 55°C for subtilisin. Chymotrypsin is effective under several reaction conditions, i.e., 1 g/L at 55°C, 2 g/L at 45°C, and 5 g/L at 35°C. Most reactions take 30 minutes, and room-temperature water rinses replace the post-reaction buffer rinses. Compared to protease scouring of boiling-water pretreated cotton, direct protease scouring of greige cotton fabrics requires increased concentration (subtilisin), higher temperature (subtilisin and chymotrypsin), or longer time (trypsin and chymotrypsin) to achieve similar water wettability and absorption properties. The most distinct outcome of direct protease scouring of greige cotton fabrics, in comparison to boiling-water pretreated and protease scoured and alkaline scoured cotton, are the resulting fabric characteristics, i.e., less lateral shrinkage, no change in surface friction, easier to shear, and more resilient to compression and bending.
Surface Modification and Bleaching of Pigmented Wool
Authors: Chen Weiguo , Chen Dongzi , Wang Xungai
Published: April 2011

We treat naturally pigmented karakul wool with a surface modification system of chlorination and catalytic bleaching, then examine its structure and properties. SEM photos reveal the surface morphology of karakul wool, and the Allwörden reaction shows the extent of damage to the epicuticle. The results show that the surface modification removes the bulk of the fiber scales and bleaching increases fiber whiteness. After bleaching, the felting propensity of karakul wool improves slightly and its dye uptake decreases. For modified and bleached karakul wool, the felting propensity decreases, the dyeing rate increases, and equilibrium exhaustion decreases compared with untreated karakul wool.
Hollow Yarn in Friction Spinning. Part II: Yarn Structure and Deformation Under Axial Tension and Lateral Forces
Authors: Merati Ali Akbar , Okamura Masaaki
Published: April 2011

In Part I of this study, we explained the method of producing a hollow yarn on a friction spinning machine and then considered its tensile properties. In this part of our study, we consider the structural properties of that yarn and the effect of axial and lateral forces on its structure, such as diameter changes, ellipticity, compressibility, and volume. We compare the properties of hollow yarns with those of equivalent 100% cotton yarns. The results indicate that stretching tension may affect the yarn diameter variation but not its linear density. The yarn diameter is bigger than that of conventional cotton yarn, and it decreases with increasing axial tension, which also happens to a conventional cotton yarn. Other results show that the yarn ellipticity ratio is greater than that of the cotton yarn and that it increases with increasing PVA percentage in the hollow yarn. In addition to higher compressibility, the hollow yarn shows better recovery. The volume of hollow yarn after compression is also greater than that of conventional cotton yarn.
Fatigue Failure in Technical Polyamide 66 Fibers
Authors: Nasri L. , Lallam A. , Bunsell A. R.
Published: April 2011

The fatigue behavior of technical polyamide 66 fibers is studied using two samples with different diameters. First, the structural and viscoelastic properties are characterized, and then loading criteria for fatigue failure are identified. The fatigue fracture morphology revealed by scanning electron microscopy is quite different from simple tensile fracture morphology. Many theories have been advanced to explain the fatigue failure phenomenon. This work shows that fatigue failure is initiated at the surface of the fiber and not in the interior, as some using the Prevorsek model have suggested. On the other hand, fatigue failure is independent of fiber geometry, and a relaxation thermal treatment considerably reduces fatigue.
Abrasion Kinetics of Wool and Blended Fabrics
Authors: Manich A. M. , de Castellar M. D. , Saurí R. M. , Miguel R. A. L. , Barella A.
Published: April 2011

The abrasion resistance of different wool and blended fabrics is measured with the Martindale wear and abrasion tester, the abrasion kinetics is identified by the shape of the mass loss curve versus abrasion cycles up to yarn breakage. A concave kinetic curve shows a low initial weight loss rate, which continues to increase throughout the process up to the end. A convex kinetic curve begins with a high initial weight loss rate, which continues to decrease throughout the process. The third kinetic curve shows an almost linear relationship between mass loss and abrasion cycles up to yarn breakage. Due to the long time required for the abrasion test to yarn breakage, a simplified method is used based on the determination of mass loss up to 5000 abrasion cycles. The initial mass loss rate and the mean value of this rate throughout the 5000 abrasion cycles ( i.e., the mean abrasion gradient) seem to be good estimates of the surface and structural abrasion degradation of the fabrics, and they show a strong relationship with the structural parameters of the fabrics.
Morphology Gradients in Thermally Point-Bonded Polypropylene Nonwovens
Authors: Wang Xueqin , Michielsen Stephen
Published: April 2011

Development of higher speed processes in thermal point bonded nonwovens and of models of the strength of these nonwovens are hampered by the lack of quantitative knowledge of the morphology of the fibers, the bond points, and the transition region between them within the nonwoven. The complex structure of these nonwovens has rendered useless most analytical techniques for measuring morphology. In this work, we use a recently developed method of polarized laser Raman microspectroscopy to measure the morphologies of these regions quantitatively. There are several surprising results as well as some expected ones. First, the morphology of the fibers between the bond points is identical to that of the original feed fibers. Second, there is a sharp gradient in the morphology going from the fiber into the bond. Third, the morphology of the bond points is substantially different from that of the fibers. Fourth, the morphology change within the bond points is directly related to the bonding conditions. In the case of an overbonded nonwoven, the birefringence decreases by almost 70% over a distance of only 30 μm.
Applying the Langmuir-Blodgett Technique to a Well Defined Model Detergent System
Authors: Gotoh Keiko , Nakazawa Noriko , Tagawa Mieko
Published: April 2011

The Langmuir-Blodgett technique is used to obtain a well defined model detergent system. Spreading monolayers of arachidic acid as a model organic contaminant are transferred onto glass plates untreated and treated with two silane coupling agents, γ-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) and methyltriethoxysilane (MTES). Brewster angle microscopic images show that the LB films of arachidic acid are uniformly deposited on the substrate. Glass plates with the LB films are ultrasonically washed in various aqueous solutions, and the detergency is evaluated from the change in FTIR spectra of the substrate due to washing. The efficiency of detergency decreases as a result of the silanization of glass, especially for the APTES treated glass. The wettability and the surface charge of the substrate play important roles in the detergency, suggesting that the LB films of arachidic acid are removed directly from the substrate. Removal of LB films from the APTES-treated glass increases with increasing surfactant or ethanol concentration, and the removal rate strongly depends on temperature. As a removal technique without washing liquids, exposure of the substrates with LB films to 172 nm ultraviolet light is also attempted.
Effects of Ferrous Mordanting on Bleaching of Camel Hair
Authors: Khishigsuren Ariyajavin , Nakajima Masaru , Takahashi Masaoki
Published: April 2011

The ferrous mordanting process used for bleaching pigmented fibers has been improved. The serious problems of discoloring and excessive damaging of bleached fibers associated with the deposition of iron during the mordant bleaching process are resolved. All mordanting parameters are critical for successful bleaching of pigmented fibers. When used at a specific temperature and a specific time during mordanting, a reagent (reductive agent or acid) capable of stabilizing the mordant bath (during treatment) produces the most complete reaction of melanin with the iron, while not allowing the iron to be deposited on the keratin. Thus, in the subsequent bleaching process, maximum whiteness is achieved with less damage in terms of the mordanting. Sodium bisulfite can be used as an auxiliary, i.e., at the initial 4.0 pH of the bath, and acetic acid and citric acid can also be applied during mordanting without causing discoloration and excessive damage. The optimum conditions for mordanting are 20°C and 15 minutes when sodium bisulfite is used, and 60°C and 15 minutes with a stabilizer of acetic acid or citric acid. The improved process is, in all respects, superior to conventional processes, with no need for after-treatment with a reducing agent.
Using Phase Change Materials in Clothing
Authors: Shim H. , McCullough E. A. , Jones B. W.
Published: April 2011

When microcapsules of phase change materials (PCMS) are added to textiles, they absorb heat energy as they change from a solid to a liquid state and release heat as they return to a solid state. This project quantifies the effect of PCMS in clothing on heat flow from the body during temperature transients. One- and two-layer body suits are constructed of a fabric/foam laminate produced with and without PCMS, and heat loss from a thermal manikin is measured as it is moved from a warm chamber to a cold chamber and back again. The results indicate that the heating and cooling effects last approximately 15 minutes. Heat released by PCMS in a cold environment decreases body heat loss by an average of 6.5 W for a one-layer suit and 13.2 W for a two-layer suit compared with non-PCM counterparts. PCM cooling effects increase body heat loss in a similar manner; therefore, PCMS in clothing provide a small, temporary heating/cooling effect during environmental transients.
Thermal Adaptability and Hand of Wool Fabric Treated with High Molecular Weight Polyethylene Glycol and a Softener
Authors: Cho Gilsoo , Yi Eunjou , Cho Jeong-Sook , Norton Marjorie J. T.
Published: April 2011

The aim of this study is to enhance the thermal adaptability of wool fabric by a treatment with high molecular weight polyethylene glycol (PEG-8000), and to improve the PEG-finished fabric's hand by treatment with a softener. Using the pad-dry-cure method, the fabric is treated in aqueous baths with 20-45% owb concentrations of PEG and 8.0-9.0% DMDHEU, resulting in 12-38% PEG add-ons proportional to the PEG concentrations. Subsequently, using the pad-cure method, the fabric is treated in aqueous solutions with 2-6% owb softener concentrations. Thermal adaptability, measured by heat of fusion and crystallization on a DSC, improves as PEG add-on increases. The PEG-treated fabric is stiffer and less smooth, soft, and full than when untreated, according to measurements with the KES-FB system. The PEG-treated fabric's thermal storage and release are 30-60% lower after softening, but the hand improves. Optimum conditions for maximizing thermal adaptability and achieving a hand equivalent to the untreated fabric are 45% PEG-8000/9.0% DMDHEU in the finishing bath and 6% softener solution concentration.
Theoretical Orientation Density Function of Spunbonded Nonwoven Fabric
Authors: Jeon Boong Soo
Published: April 2011

The orientation density function of spunbounded nonwoven fabric is defined and theoretically derived in this paper. The density function is allowed to vary according to such variables as the feeding velocity of filaments, the moving velocity of the conveyor belt, and the oscillating velocity of the aspirator, all of which affect the manufacturing process of spunbonded nonwoven fabric. The number of fibers oriented in the crossmachine direction increases as the oscillating velocity of the aspirator accelerates. The velocity of the moving conveyor belt significantly increases the number of fibers oriented to the machine direction. The derived density function is used to estimate the orientation distribution of spunbonded nonwoven fabric according to different values of variables, and it may help to design the mechanical properties of spunbonded nonwoven fabric.
Detecting Fabric Defects with Computer Vision and Fuzzy Rule Generation. Part I: Defect Classification by Image Processing
Authors: Jeong Sung Hoon , Choi Hyung Taek , Kim Sook Rae , Jaung Jae Yun , Kim Seong Hun
Published: April 2011

A fabric defect detecting system that uses an advanced method involving computer vision and image analysis is capable of defect classification. Image pre-processing techniques that enhance raw images are applied before defect classification by a K-means algorithm and statistical method. These generate a Bayes classifier from which a decision surface is created for a classification procedure that can categorize defective or nondefective regions. Defect detection of the test fabric image is implemented by the decision surface from the training fabric image. The advantages of using the decision surface are a reduction in the training step and the ability to rapidly classify fabric. Experimental results confirm the reliable and reasonable classification ability of the proposed system.
Effect of Sonication on Cotton Preparation with Alkaline Pectinase
Authors: Yachmenev Val G. , Bertoniere Noelie R. , Blanchard Eugene J.
Published: April 2011

Pectinase bioscouring of greige cotton fabric is a very promising new approach for preparing cotton textiles for subsequent wet processing treatments such as mercerizing, bleaching, dyeing, printing, or finishing. Such biopreparation of greige cotton fabric is an energy efficient and environmentally benign process. Our research has shown that at the laboratory scale, introducing ultrasonic energy into the reaction chamber during enzymatic scouring of the greige cotton fabric significantly improves pectinase efficiency, but does not decrease the tensile strength of cotton fabric. In line with our previous data, current research also confirms that sonication of pectinase processing solutions does not impair the complex structures of the enzyme molecules, but significantly improves their performance. Data show that alkaline pectinase appears to be a more efficient agent for biopreparation of greige cotton than acidic pectinase, resulting in better wettability and whiteness. We also establish that the combination of pectinase bioscouring with desizing and after-washing insures sufficient fabric wettability with adequate uniformity. The results are comparable to or better than those for fabric after traditional alkaline scouring. Introducing ultrasonic energy into the reaction chamber during enzymatic treatment of cotton fabric could help overcome the major disadvantage of pectinase scouring—a longer processing time compared to conventional alkaline scouring.
Hierarchy of Textile Structures and Architecture of Fabric Geometric Models
Authors: Lomov S. V. , Huysmans G. , Verpoest I.
Published: April 2011

Textile materials are characterized by a distinct structural hierarchy, which should be represented by a model of textile geometry and its mechanical behavior. Despite extensive investigations of textile materials and a number of theoretical models existing in the textile literature for different structures, a general model is not available. Hence, the challenge addressed in this work is to take full advantage of the hierarchical principle of textile modeling to create a truly integrated modeling and design tool. The algorithm for extensive simulations of complex yarn interactions uses the minimum energy principle, allowing complex textile structure computations in computer time to be counted in minutes instead of hours or days for FEM implementation of the same nonlinear, nonconservative behavior of yarns under compression and bending. The architecture of the code corresponds to the hierarchical structure of the textile material. General ideas of the hierarchical approach are illustrated by models of the internal geometry of multilayered woven fabrics and weft-knitted fabric topology.
Mechanical Strength of Durable Press Finished Cotton Fabric. Part IV: Abrasion Resistance
Authors: Yang Charles Q. , Qian Lei , Lickfield Gary C.
Published: April 2011

Durable press (DP) finishing, a process widely used by the textile industry to produce wrinkle-resistant cotton fabrics, causes considerable loss of fabric abrasion resistance. N-methylol compounds such as dimethyloldihydroxylethyleneurea (DMDHEU) are traditional durable press finishing agents. In recent years, multifunctional carboxylic acids such as 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) have been used as nonformaldehyde alternatives. In this research, we investigate the loss in fabric abrasion resistance caused by degradation and crosslinking of cellulose. Treatment of cotton by a polycarboxylic acid or a catalyst for DMDHEU results in a significant loss of its abrasion resistance. The lost abrasion resistance of cotton treated with BTCA is attributed to irreversible acid-catalyzed depolymerization and reversible crosslinking of cellulose molecules. We have removed the crosslinking of BTCA-treated cotton fabric with alkaline hydrolysis, thus determining separately the magnitude of lost fabric abrasion resistance due to the two different factors. For a warp-faced twill weave cotton, the reduced abrasion resistance in the warp direction is more severe than in the filling direction.
Effects of Different Structural Parameters on Carpet Physical Properties
Authors: Önder Emel , Berkalp Ömer Berk
Published: April 2011

This paper deals with some of the physical properties of face-to-face woven carpets with different structural parameters. Based on appearance retention, abrasion resistance, and tuft withdrawal tests, effective parameters of carpet quality are determined by variance and regression analyses, and the changing characteristics are emphasized in order to direct attention to weaknesses, which are important for total carpet performance.
Mechanical Behavior of Irregular Fibers. Part I: Modeling the Tensile Behavior of Linear Elastic Fibers
Authors: He Weiyu , Zhang Shaorui , Wang Xungai
Published: April 2011

Fiber irregularities are inherent to textile fibers, particularly natural fibers. This series of papers examines the impact of fiber irregularity on the mechanical behavior of textile fibers. Part I examines the effect of fiber dimensional irregularities on the tensile behavior of linear elastic fibers using the finite element method. Fiber dimensional irregularities are simulated with sine waves of different magnitude and frequency. The results indicate that increasing the level or magnitude of irregularity will decrease the breaking load, breaking elongation, and method Young's modulus of the fiber, while increasing the frequency of irregularity will decrease the breaking load and method Young's modulus, but the breaking elongation will increase. Fiber dimensional irregularity and the gauge length effect are also simulated in this study.
Detecting Fabric Defects with Computer Vision and Fuzzy Rule Generation. Part II: Defect Identification by a Fuzzy Expert System
Authors: Choi Hyung Taek , Jeong Sung Hoon , Kim Sook Rae , Jaung Jae Yun , Kim Seong Hun
Published: April 2011

A new method for a fabric defect identifying system uses fuzzy inference in multicondition approximate reasoning and is capable of defect identification. The system uses fuzzy inference rules, and the membership function for these rules adopts a neural network approach. Only a small number of fuzzy inference rules are required to make the identifications of nondefect, slub (warp direction), slub (weft direction), nep, and composite defect. One fuzzy inference rule can replace many crisp rules. With this method, we can design a reliable system for identifying fabric defects. Experimental results with this approach have demonstrated an identification ability comparable to that of a human inspector.
Model of the Tensile Stress-Strain Behavior of Fabrics
Authors: Taibi E. H. , Hammouche A. , Kifani A.
Published: April 2011

Currently, objective measurements of textile fabrics refer to mechanical and physical properties measured by testing devices such as KES (Kawabata's evaluation system) and FAST (fabric assurance by simple testing). Textile scientists and engineers can easily obtain the values of these properties, but their use for developing models of fabric behavior is rare, although this is the simplest and most correct way to do it. Here, we develop an analytical model of the tensile force dependent on strain for a fabric sample, integrating the Kawabata parameters obtained by means of this test. The empirical stress-strain curves of some fabrics are presented and compared with curves obtained analytically.
Detecting and Quantifying Set Marks on Woven Fabrics
Authors: Ayala Andres Leal , Govindaraj Muthu
Published: April 2011

Set marks in woven fabrics occur when a loom is stopped and restarted. The pick spacing at these areas varies from the rest of the fabric. This paper details a method by which set marks in a fabric can be assessed. The surface profile of the fabric is read with a KES surface tester, and the data are analyzed by fast Fourier transform. Statistical studies validate the results obtained with the FFT analysis and establish the influence of different stoppage times on the degree of set marks formed on the fabric.
Cotton Maturity and Its Influence on Nep Formation
Authors: Frydrych I. , Matusiak M. , Świech T.
Published: April 2011

The nep number in yarn depends on both the nep number in the raw material and changes in the number and size of neps in the spinning process. Therefore, the two problems need to be analyzed separately. The first problem consists of testing the value changes of some cotton parameters on different processing stages, which influence the appearance and quality of rotor yarns made from different raw materials. The second problem is an analysis of the reasons for mechanical nep creation in raw materials and during processing. In order to explain the phenomenon of mechanical nep formation, which in our opinion is related to fiber buckling, we derive the theoretical relationship between the cotton fiber maturity parameter, called the coefficient of circularity, and the minimal inertia radius of a fiber cross section, assuming both ellipse and flattened ring shapes of fiber cross sections. The correlation coefficients between the mechanical nep number and the other cotton fiber parameters are determined. The minimal inertia radius and maturity ratio are significantly correlated with the mechanical nep number in raw material. We can draw a hypothesis that the minimal inertia radius and fiber slenderness are the most relevant parameters for mechanical nep formation during processing.
Predicting Garment Drape with a Fuzzy-Neural Network
Authors: Fan J. , Newton E. , Au R. , Chan S. C. F.
Published: April 2011

This paper proposes to use a fuzzy-neural network system to predict and display the drape image of garments made of different fabrics and styles. The new approach is used to develop a prototype drape prediction system to predict the drape of a lady's dress style made from different fabrics. The advantages and disadvantages of the new approach, compared with conventional ones, are discussed.
Crosslinking of Cotton Cellulose with Pre-reacted DMDMDHEU-AA. Part II: Reaction Kinetics
Authors: Chen Jui-Chin
Published: April 2011

Dimethyldimethyloldihydroxylethyleneurea (DMDMDHEU) and pre-reacted dimethyldimethyloldihydroxylethyleneurea and acrylic acid (DMDMDHEU-AA) are used to study the specific rate constant and other activation parameters. At 100°C, the rate constants ( k) for DMDMDHEU-AA crosslinking agents are higher than that for the DMDMDHEU, and those for the mole ratio of DMDMDHEU/AA = 1/2 are higher than the mole ratio of DMDMDHEU/AA = 1/1. The enthalpies and entropies of activation for DMDMDHEU are lower than for DMDMDHEU-AA. The carboxylic acid group of DMDMDHEU-AA does affect the reaction state and energy consumption in the reaction between cellulose molecules and crosslinking agents.
Through-Air Drying of Unbacked Tufted Carpets
Authors: Lee H. Stephen , Carr Wallace W. , Leisen Johannes , Beckham Haskell W.
Published: April 2011

Magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) and a pilot-scale laboratory through-air dryer are used to study through-air drying of unbacked tufted nylon carpets. MRI is used to study the effect of the vacuum extraction procedure on local moisture distribution within the carpet and to measure local moisture profiles during through-air drying where airflow rate is held constant. The effects of several process and carpet construction parameters on drying are discussed.
Minimum Variance Control in Leveling Slivers
Authors: Huang Chang-Chiun , Bai Jar-Cheun
Published: April 2011

This paper presents procedures to design a minimum variance control for leveling slivers in a double-zone drafting process. We model a random sliver and consider the drafting model as a stochastic system with a zero-mean white noise process and a constant sequence representing the input-sliver mean thickness. Such a model enables the proposed control algorithm not only to smooth out the irregularity of the output sliver, but also to regulate the mean thickness at the desired value. We develop the minimum variance control applicable to our stochastic model based on an optimal predictor. Since some parameters and the noise process are not exactly known, identification is used to refine the model, and the control law is thus designed based on the identified model. The simulation results demonstrate that the algorithm can achieve goals by adjusting the speed of either the back or front roller.