bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Measuring the Cross-Sectional Area of Cotton Fibers with an Image Analyzer
Authors: Berlin J.D. , Worley S. , Ramey H.H. , Linkous S.S.
Published: March 2008

A procedure for measuring the cross-sectional areas of cotton fibers with an image analyzer was developed. The fibers were embedded with an ultra-low-viscosity . embedding medium and sectioned 1.5-μm thick; then the sections were stained with crystal violet. Measurement of 500 fibers per sample provided means that could be reproduced within ± 2.3%. Cross-sectional area was highly correlated with micronaire reading (r = 0.96).
Chromatographic Separation of the Cotton-Gin Trash, Bract, Sisal, and Jute Antigens into Two Fractions
Authors: Mares Trinidad , Sekul Antonio A. , Ory Robert L.
Published: March 2008

The cotton-gin trash, bract, sisal, and jute antigens were separated into two fractions by Sephadex G-75 column chromatography. The first appeared in the chromatogram as a small, fast-moving fraction, and the second as a large, slow- moving one. Both fractions absorb uv light at 254 nm. Earlier work on the partially- purified antigens showed two bands by gel electrophoresis: a large, slow-moving band that stained heavily for carbohydrate but weakly or not at all for protein, and a small, fast-moving band that stained heavily for protein but less for carbohydrate, indicating the presence of a glycoprotein. The two fractions separated by column chromatogra phy were tested by immunodiffusion for antigenicity. The small, fast-moving fraction is immunologically active against cotton dust antibodies, but the large, slow-moving glycoprotein separated in this procedure is not.
Effects of Washing on Fiber Properties, Dust Generation, and Processing Quality of Cotton1
Authors: Perkins Henry H.
Published: March 2008

Thoroughly washed cotton has been exempted from the OSHA cotton dust standard. For insuring worker safety and health and for possible economic benefit, processing of washed cotton may be a realistic method for dealing with the cotton dust problem, at least for some segments of the cotton textile industry. Cottons washed under different conditions of time, temperature, detergency, and fiber finish were evaluated for effects on noncellulosic constituents, fiber properties, dust generation, and processing and yarn qualities. The more severe washing treatments adversely affected fiber length and removed large percentages of the natural waxes, whereas, the milder treatments did not affect fiber properties and left the natural waxes intact. All washing treatments reduced dust in processing. Washing generally had some adverse effect on processing and yarn qualities, but all washed cottons were processed into commercially acceptable yarns.
Durable Flame-Retardant Treatments for Blends of Cotton, Wool, and Polyester
Authors: Beninate John V. , Trask Brenda J. , Drake George L.
Published: March 2008

Durable flame-retardant treatments based on a vinyl phosphonate oligomer or Thps were applied to cotton, cotton/polyester, cotton/wool, and cotton/polyester/wool medium-weight twill fabrics. The treatments were applied by either a pad, dry, cure process or a two-step procedure consisting of a pad, dry, cure application of DMDHEU followed by a Thps-NH3 cure process. Flammability of the treated fabrics was evaluated by a number of tests, including burning rate, vertical char length, oxygen index, and a flame-extinguishment test. Physical properties were determined by standard tests to measure breaking strength, wrinkle recovery, stiffness, durable- press rating and shrinkage due to laundering. Cotton/wool blend fabrics treated with Thps-urea-TM M had the best flame-retardant properties.
Low Wet Pick-Up Finishing: A Review of Commercial Experience'
Authors: Wright E. Lfnwood
Published: March 2008

This paper discusses the commercial implications of kiss-roll and foam-application methods for applying both thermosetting resin and hand-modifying chemicals to cotton and cotton blend fabrics. Both physical performance characteristics and aesthetic properties are discussed. The commercial implications on a practical, day-to-day, high-speed finishing range are compared with conventional dip-nip application techniques. The impact on color run and staining of white grounds of yarn-dyed fabrics are demonstrated. A brief discussion of economic considerations based on actual plant experience are also included.
Carbohydrazide as a Formaldehyde-Scavenging Agent in Durable-Press Finishing
Authors: Turner John D. , Cashen Norton A.
Published: March 2008

Carbohydrazide has been demonstrated to be an efficient formaldehyde-scavenging agent, particularly with dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea (DMDHEU) resins. With a given level of carbohydrazide, a lower level of free formaldehyde was achieved with the buffered DMDHEU resin than with the unbuffered. The nature of the catalyst also had a significant effect on the formaldehyde-scavenging ability of the carbohy drazide. Although the free formaldehyde is reduced on the fabric initially, it increases after washing. A solution of the carbohydrazide in the methylated DMDHEU has long-term stability. This property would permit a preformulated product by the resin manufacturer.
The Degradation of Cotton by Ionizing Radiation
Authors: Delides C.G. , Panagiotalidis C.Z. , Lega-Panagiotalidis O.C.
Published: March 2008

The effect of 60Co γ-radiation on physical and chemical properties of raw cotton has been studied over a wide dose range from 0 up to 120 Mrad. A variety of techniques—namely viscometry, infrared spectroscopy, solubility, analysis of stress- strain measurements, and scanning electron microscopy (SEM)—have been applied in an attempt to determine both micro- and macrostructural changes during irradiation. It was found that viscosity, ultimate strength, and ir data were in accordance with those published in the literature. Solubility data were quite different from those for purified cotton, and this has been attributed to the presence of wax in raw cotton. Small cracks almost parallel to the fiber axis started to be apparent by SEM from a dose of about 0.1 Mrad. At higher doses the cracks increased in number and enlarged in size and depth as well. This is probably due to the fracture of the interfibrillar bonds. Tensile fractography also showed differences between samples irradiated at different doses. Control cotton and low-dose-irradiated samples showed sharply- tapered fractures, while highly-irradiated samples showed blunt fracture ends. From the analysis of the data, it can be concluded that changes in cotton during irradiation were both intramolecular and supramolecular (interfibrillar) in nature.
Shrink-Resisting Reduced Wool with Synthappret LKF
Authors: Cook J.R. , Fleischfresser B.E.
Published: March 2008

The level of shrink-resistance that can be achieved by the application of a polyether polyurethane, Synthappret LKF, to wool fabric can be substantially increased if the wool is reduced with sodium bisulphite or tri-n-butyl phosphine. The effect is reversed by treatments that remove thiol groups. The reductive pretreatment also increases the adhesion between the wool and the polymer. Because the improved shrink-resistance is apparently dependent on the presence of thiol groups in the reduced wool, it is suggested that the thiol groups react with the isocyanate groups of the polymer. Such a reaction would be expected to increase the adhesion between wool and polymer and thereby increase the level of shrink-resistance.
Improved Durable-Press Cotton by a Two-Step Poly-Set Process
Authors: Pandey S.N. , Nair Prema
Published: March 2008

A crossrinking treatment on scoured, bleached, mercerized, and desized cotton fabric with dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea (DMDHEU) by a two-step poly-set process is reported. The fabric was also treated with DMDHEU by the conventional pad-dry-cure tecnhique. The resin-finished fabric, along with a control, were studied for various physiochemical properties by standard methods. The number of crosslinks (expressed as CL/GPU) and length of crosslinks were calculated from formaldehyde yields and nitrogen values. The data on resin add-on, CL/GPU, and length of crosslinks of cotton crosslinked with varying concentrations of the resin in the presence of polymerization catalysts is discussed. The add-on values in the case of the sample treated by zinc acetate was much higher compared to the similar sample treated in the presence of magnesium acetate. The number of CL/GPU and length of crosslink increased with the increase of resin concentration. Homopolymerization of resin was evident in step 1. The fabric processed in step 2 showed marked improvement in wrinkle-recovery angle and other properties such as strength, elongation, abrasion, and toughness, compared to the samples treated by the conventional process. The relationship between various properties of the fabric is also dealt with.
Influence of Twist on Fiber Migration in Rotor-Spun Yarns
Authors: Salhotra K.R. , Dutta B. , Sett S.K.
Published: March 2008

The influence of yarn twist on fiber migration has been studied by many research workers for various types of fibers and spinning systems. Whereas some have shown that the level of twist has negligible effect on fiber migration, others have reported an increase in the migration as the twist is increased. That the migration passes through a maxima has been reported by yet another author. The present work has been done to study this aspect for rotor-spun yarns. The results show that, contrary to all the findings mentioned above for ring-spun yarns, the rotor-spun yarns exhibit a minima as the twist level is increased. A plausible explanation has been offered for such a behavior.
A Study of the Distribution of Perimeter, Cell-Wall Area and Thickness, and Shape in Raw and Slack-Mercerized . Single Cotton Fibers
Authors: Chauhan R.S. , Shah N.M. , Dweltz N.E.
Published: March 2008

A study of the cross-sections of single cotton fibers revealed that perimeter, cell-wall thickness, and cell-wall area are normally distributed, and that the parameters of the normal, or Gaussian, distribution can be used to describe these physical . characteristics of single cotton fibers. Cell-wall thickness, cell-wall area, circularity, and perimeter, to a small extent, are found to increase with growth period. Variation in these parameters with increasing maturity, when fineness remains constant, as well v, as changes with increasing coarseness, when maturity remains constant, have been described. The changes brought about in these parameters as a result of slack-mercerization have also been investigated. An important result of slack-mercerization is that the average perimeter, as well as the variation within a sample, decreases, while in the case of cell-wall thickness and area, the averages and their deviations both increase.
SEM Studies of the Chars of Flame-Retardant Treated Fabrics
Authors: Chauhan R.S. , Bhavsar R.B. , Bhagwat M.M.
Published: March 2008

Cotton fabrics treated with two different types of flame-retardant finishes were burnt, and the chars produced were examined in a scanning electron microscope (SEM). The topographical information gathered from SEM examination provides a possible explanation of the mode of action of the polymeric finish and that of the reactive finish.
Dyeing of Grafted Polyester Fiber
Authors: Faterpekar S.A. , Potnis S.P.
Published: March 2008

Polyester fiber was modified by grafting with polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) by the irradiation process. Initially, polyester fiber was grafted with polyvinyl acetate and then hydrolyzed under suitable conditions to get polyester-graft-polyvinyl-alcohol. Crystallinity of the grafted fibers was determined by infrared, DSC, and x-ray analysis and was found to be identical for all the grafted fibers. Moisture regain increased with increase in PVA and had a value of 1.6% at 13% PVA content.

The grafted fibers were dyed with disperse dyes: Dispersol Fast Yellow G and Duranol Red 2B at 100° and 130°C. Saturation dye uptake showed an initial increase with PVA, attained a maximum at about the 8% graft level, and then decreased at higher PVA contents. Half dyeing time decreased with PVA content, attained a minimum, and then showed an increase. Except for the numerical values, both dyes followed identical patterns at different temperatures.
Relationships Between Chemical Structure and Properties of Fibers from Certain Partially Aromatic Polyamides
Authors: Chapman R.D. , Holmer D.A. , Pickett O.A. , Lea K.R. , Saunders J.H.
Published: March 2008

A new group of nylon yarns was prepared from copolymers of terephthalic and isophthalic acids with hexamethylene diamine, containing up to 80/20 molar ratios of the two acids, respectively. The corresponding polymers were characterized as to melting point, and spinning was explored. Compositions containing 60/40 and 65/35 molar ratios were evaluated more extensively, with the 65/35 ratio being used for detailed studies. Physical property tests, a Hat-spotting evaluation in tires, and wrinkle testing of three fabric types showed yarns of this composition to have dimensional stability approaching but not fully equalling that of poly(ethylene terephthalate), while having dyeing characteristics similar to those of nylon 66.
Liquid Ammonia Mercerization of Jute
Authors: Mukherjee A.C. , Mukhopadhyay A.K. , Dutt A.S. , Mukhopadhyay U.
Published: March 2008

Results of liquid ammonia treatment on jute yarns and fabrics are presented. Significant increase in elongation-at-break with some increase in tenacity has been observed in the case of jute yarns. As already reported for jute fibers, an optimum period of treatment of about ten minutes has been observed for jute yarns also. Liquid ammonia treatment increases the extension-at-break of jute fabrics also, and this results in significant improvement in tufting performance of the fabric. Pretreatment of jute fabric with liquid ammonia prior to application of Hame-retarding materials gives significant improvement in fire retardant properties.
Adducts of Glyoxal and Amides as Finishing Agents for Cotton1
Authors: Frick J.G. , Harper Robert J.
Published: March 2008

Adducts of glyoxal with urea, 1,3-dimethylurea, and methyl carbamate can be used as formaldehyde-free finishing agents for wrinkle-resistant, shrinkage-resistant, or durable-press cotton. These adducts are less effective than the usual methylolamide nnisbing agents and often cause discoloration. However, only small amounts of formaldehyde need be added with the glyoxal to increase the effectiveness and reduce the discoloration noticeably. The agents are more likely to be of value on cotton- polyester blends where less crosslinking is required.
Wear Life of Easy-Care Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Neelakantan P. , Mehta H.U.
Published: March 2008

In this paper an attempt has been made to identify the physical properties of an easy-care 100% cotton fabric that can correlate with the end-use performance of garments made out of this fabric. For this purpose, two independent sets of data have been analyzed. From the first set of data the performance of the twelve plain-weave fabrics of different counts and constructions, but resin-finished and cured under similar conditions, have been obtained in terms of the number of wear-wash cycles that shirts made out of these fabrics could withstand before showing the first sign of damage. In the second set of data, from the literature, which included 400 experimen tal fabrics of different weaves and constructions, the performance has been obtained in terms of the number of laundry cycles that cuffed trouser legs could withstand before showing the first sign of damage.

Preliminary studies on these data indicate that, in spite of the complexity of the phenomenon of wear, it is possible to draw conclusions on the wear performance of a fabric from a knowledge of its initial tear strength and elongation; further, there is no need to include the laboratory assessment of abrasion resistance. However, the values of the regression coefficients do not exhibit any trend with the weave or weight per unit area of the fabric. This suggests the need to identify other fundamental parameters that are related to the fabric wear life.
The Identification of Specialty Fibers
Authors: Langley Kenneth D. , Kennedy Thomas A.
Published: March 2008

Because specialty fibers are expensive and are often blended with wool, there is a need to be able to distinguish between the two groups. Certain lustrous wools are even in diameter and have long scales like mohair, but there are visible differences in scale thickness and brightness. Cashmere and camel hair are fine and somewhat uneven in diameter, cashmere having wide scales and camel almost convex ones. Alpaca and Angora rabbit fibers have distinctive scale and medulla features of their own.
Cotton Dust Control Studies: Effects of Engineering Controls, Washing Cotton, and Additives
Authors: Hersh S.P. , Batra S.K. , Fornes R.E.
Published: March 2008

This paper reviews some of the cotton dust control technology studies carried out a North Carolina State University since 1973. The purpose of the investigations has been to examine means for reducing respirable dust emission during carding, as well as to evaluate the relative merits of various dust-sampling devices. Typically the results indicate that introducing lint cleaners at the gin reduces dust emission, while the use of two types of feeder/cleaners examined does not. Steaming of ginned cotton reduces the dust emission, while storage of ginned cotton (steamed or unsteamed) beyond three months increases it. Air-cleaning devices such as properly-designed electrostatic precipitators can be quite effective in diminishing the dust concentration in the card room. Similarly, washing of cotton, the use of cleaning devices such as COTTONMASTER®, or the addition of dust suppressants to cotton reduces the emission during subsequent carding. While some of the studies are complete, others are in progress.
The Low-Stress Mechanical Properties of Wool and Wool-Blend Woven Fabrics
Authors: Dhingra R.C. , De Jong S. , Postle R.
Published: March 2008

The uniaxial-tensile and bending properties have been examined for a series of wool and wool/polyester woven apparel outerwear fabrics. The fabrics tested include a wide range of laboratory-produced woven materials (varying systematically in weave structure and the ratio of the two yarn curvilinear lengths) and also a range of commercially-produced woven fabrics. The fabric load-extension curves and yarn- decrimping curves are analyzed and discussed in terms of the following dimensionless parameters: the normalized tension per thread (the applied tension divided by the yarn-bending rigidity and multiplied by the square of curvilinear length in the extended direction); the relative yarn or fabric extension (the yarn or fabric extension divided by the yarn crimp); the initial fabric tensile modulus (i.e., initial slope of the normalized tension vs. relative extension curves); the yarn-decrimping modulus; the relative energy of stretching (i.e., area under the normalized load-extension curve); and the energy loss due to hysteresis (i.e., area of the hysteresis loop of the normalized load-extension curve during tensile-recovery measurements). Inelastic and elastic parameters are described for the fabric-bending hysteresis curves. Fabric tensile and bending properties are shown to depend largely on the yarn linear density, the crimp value of yarns, under deformation, and the ratio of the two yarn curvilinear lengths in the structural repeat unit of the fabric. It is shown that there are considerable constraints imposed on the yarn curvature within the fabric, resulting in increased resistance to fabric stretching and bending compared to the results measured on yarns removed from the fabric. A study is made of the effect of yarn extensibility on the decrimping behavior of yarns unravelled from fabric. The effect of weave construction is prominent on the tensile behavior of fabric; its effect on the decrimping behavior of yarn and bending properties of fabrics is only marginal. The effect of blend composi tion on these mechanical properties has been examined for a series of wool/polyester woven fabrics produced from yarns of the same linear density and was found not to be significant.
Regioselective Bromination at Methylol Groups in Wool Keratin and Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Ziderman Irving I.
Published: March 2008

Useful properties are imparted to textile fabrics by regioselective derivatization without significantly impairing their quality. Woven cotton and wool fabrics and a woolen knit were brominated at the primary hydroxyl (C-6 and L-serine residue, respectively) with Hanessian's N-bromosuccinimide/triphenylphosphine reagent, giving a degree of substitution of 5% and 94%, respectively, for cotton and wool. Addition of sodium bromide to the reaction mixture did not enhance the bromine content of the product. The brominated textiles were of excellent quality and stability, and no odor was detected. 72% of the bromine incorporated into the wool was stable to five drycleaning cycles. Ten aqueous launderings removed all the bromine from the wool. The brominated fabrics exhibited a diminished flammability. The brominated wool was moth-resistant.
Estimating Quality Components of Natural Fibers by Near-Infrared Reflectance1
Authors: Larsen Svend A. , Kinnison J.L.
Published: March 2008

Near-infrared reflectance analysis as a tool for estimating clean wool fiber present in core samples of wool and mean fiber diameter was examined. Thirty-three commercial core samples and two years of ram fleeces were used in the research. Significant correlations were obtained between actual and predicted clean wool fiber present for both greasy and washed wool cores. Very close agreement between measured fiber diameter and estimated diameter from reflectance values was found. Orientation of the specimens was shown to influence reflectance values.
The Effect of Rotor Fiber Groove Design on Trash Accumulation, End Breakage, and Yarn Properties1
Authors: Simpson Jack
Published: March 2008

The trash accumulation and end breakage from an experimental rotor with a narrow, deep V-type fiber groove was compared with that from a conventional rotor with a wider, rounded fiber groove. Then the trash accumulation and end breakage characteristics of experimental and conventional rotors with holes in the periphery were compared to those without holes, both with the trash cleaner in and out of operation. The V-type fiber groove had greater trash accumulation but fewer end breaks and appeared to yield stronger, more uniform yarn at high rotor speeds. Rotors with holes in the periphery were most effective in regards to rotor trash, end breakage, and yarn properties when spinning coarse counts from a relatively clean cotton.
Foam Mercerization
Authors: Turner John D. , Blanton Wallace A. , Kravetz Louis
Published: March 2008

Mercerizing strength sodium hydroxide may be foamed and this foam applied to cotton by conventional methods. Application of foamed sodium hydroxide offers the possible advantages of savings in sodium hydroxide and dyes as well as ability to treat selectively given areas of the fabric. This technology may be useful in areas other than mercerization.
Investigations Toward Formaldehyde-Free Finishes'
Authors: Frick J.G. , Harper R.J.
Published: March 2008

Only a few formaldehyde-free finishing agents have had even brief commercial usage. Among them, the dihydroxyimidazolidinones (dihydroxyethyleneureas) are the most attractive, but they still lack economy and effectiveness. Investigation of numerous types of agents continues, but best prospects for success remain in the aldehyde-amide reaction products. Bis(dihydroxyimidazolidinones) have given slightly better fabric properties than the mono(dihydroxyimidazolidinones), but at considerable expense. Adducts of glyoxal and amides other than ureas have had even less reactivity than the dihydroxyimidazolidinones. A recent effort has investigated reaction products of glutaraldehyde and amides that are intended to be 1-substituted- 2,6-dihydroxypiperidines or their ethers. These products, however, only approach the reactivity of the dihydroxyimidazolidinones.
Self-Twist Cotton Roving
Authors: Abbott G.M.
Published: March 2008

The use of self-twist (ST) cotton rovings as a replacement for conventional rovings in producing ring-spun yarns has been investigated using both magnetically-weighted and pressure-arm drafting units. The ST rovings generally produced an inferior- quality yarn with more roving and yarn breaks than that with the conventional control rovings. This offset the advantage of producing the ST roving at a much higher rate.
Effect of Boll Age and Mercerization on Cotton Fiber Properties
Authors: Ramey H.H. , Lawson R. , Duckett K.E. , French A.D.
Published: March 2008

Samples of six cotton cultivars grown in three environments in 1977 and 1978 were harvested 26 days postanthesis and at 6-day intervals thereafter until boll opening to obtain samples of four boll ages. Fiber fineness and maturity data were compared with mechanical properties from samples that were untreated, mercerized slack, and mercerized under tension. Micronaire reading, wall thickness, linear density, and cross-sectional area increased with boll age. In untreated samples there was no consistent pattern of change in tenacity with boll age, but for all three treatments load-to-break for individual fibers increased with boll age. The 26-day-old fibers had thinner walls, higher x-ray angles, and a lower degree of crystallinity than the older fibers.
A New Concept in the Reduction of Free Formaldehyde Associated with DMDHEU Easy-Care Finishing of Cotton
Authors: Cashen Norton A.
Published: March 2008

Upon addition of carbohydrazide to a commercial DMDHEU solution, formalde hyde is arrested in the form of an insoluble condensation product that can be removed by centrifugation or filtration. Cotton finishes obtained from pad baths prepared from a modified commercial DMDHEU resin exhibit a dramatic reduction in free formal dehyde and a greatly increased stability against the kind of hydrolytic cleavage of the N-C bond that normally leads to increased formaldehyde release after laundering of a conventional DMDHEU-treated cotton.
Incidence and Mechanism of Fiber Breakage in Rotor Spinning
Authors: Salhotra K.R. , Chattopadhyay R.
Published: March 2008

The opening roller system of fiber separation which is invariably used on all the modern rotor spinners, entails considerable breakage of fibers. Various indirect measures have been proposed over the years for estimating the incidence of such fiber breakage. This paper describes a technique for direct measurement of fiber breakage. It has been shown that the number of fibers that break increases as the opening roller speed is raised. Besides, many fibers undergo multiple breaks at higher speeds. The pattern of fiber breakage is quite similar with opening rollers fitted with pins and saw-tooth wire. A probable mechanism has been preferred when explaining these results on fiber breakage.
High Cotton-Content Polyester/Kevlar Triblend Yarns and Fabrics
Authors: Ruppenicker George F. , Kullman Russell M.H.
Published: March 2008

Blends of cotton with up to 40% manmade fibers were produced. Triblends included cotton with 5% Kevlar/15% polyester, 5% Kevlar/25% polyester, 5% Kevlar/35% polyester, and 10% Kevlar/20% polyester. The triblend yarns and fabrics were compared with those produced from blends of cotton with 20, 30, and 40% polyester. Yarns spun from the triblends were stronger than the cotton/polyester blend yarns with equivalent manmade fiber contents. However, the improvement in strength imparted by the Kevlar fiber diminished as the percentage of polyester was increased. In some cases, resin-treated triblend fabrics had lower breaking strengths than those woven from comparable cotton/polyester blends. Fabrics containing Kevlar had reduced abrasion resistance and a greater tendency to pill.
Crease-Resistance Finishing of Cotton Fabrics with Acrylate Copolymers and Dihydroxydimethylethyleneurea
Authors: Yamamoto Kazuhide
Published: March 2008

A simultaneous treatment of cotton fabric with 4,5-dihydroxy-1,3-dimethylethylen eurea and an acrylate copolymer was studied. When acrylate copolymers with low glass transition temperatures (below - 22°C) and high molecular weight (above 105) were used with the crosslinking agent, the treated fabrics had an excellent level of crease resistance, tensile strength, and flex-abrasion resistance. Good durability to repeated launderings, resistance to hydrolysis, wash-wear rating, shrink resistance, and color fastness were also obtained on the resin-finished cotton fabrics. A pad- dry-cure process was applied to various kinds of cotton fabrics using a production machine. No formaldehyde was detected during processing or from the resin-treated fabrics thus produced.
Acid and Enzymatic Hydrolysis of Pretreated Cellulosic Materials as an Analytical Tool
Authors: Ladisch Christine M. , Chiasson Constance M. , Tsao George T.
Published: March 2008

A rapid and accurate procedure for the quantitative analysis of cellulose in textiles based on acid and enzymatic hydrolysis was investigated. Total hydrolysis was achieved by a two-step procedure: The cellulose in the'sample was first dissolved in cadoxen and then reprecipitated. The material, thus pretreated, was then hy drolyzed with acid or enzyme catalytic agents. Hydrolysis products were detected and quantified by colorimetric, enzymic, and liquid chromatographic methods of analysis. Samples examined included cotton, rayon, Avicel®, CF-11®, and cotton/ polyester blends. The specificity of the enzyme hydrolysis method allowed analysis of raw cotton without prior purification. Results of the analyses were compared to those obtained by existing methods of analysis.
Distribution of Component Fibers on the Surface of a Blended Yarn
Authors: Zurek W. , Krucinska I. , Adrian H.
Published: March 2008

A method for estimating fiber distribution on the surface of a blended yarn is presented. This method relies on the effect of blending on the aesthetic and wearing properties of the textile product. For this purpose the surface of blend yarns was tested on a Quantimet 720 and the results were verified using a visual (organoleptic) evaluation.
Foam Sizing
Authors: Perkins Warren S. , Walker Robert P.
Published: March 2008

Results from studies of foam sizing are presented. Foaming characteristics of several size materials including polyvinyl alcohol, carboxymethylcellulose, deriva tized starches, acrylic polymers, and polyesters are described. Influence of size for mulation viscosity and concentration on foamability of sizes is demonstrated. Tech niques for transport and application of foam sizes are presented. Properties of poly ester/cotton yarns sized using foam are equivalent or superior to those of similar yarns sized conventionally. Economics of application of size using foam are also considered.
Modifying Wear Life of All-Cotton Fabrics
Authors: Raheel Mastura , Lien Maureen Dever
Published: March 2008

Abrasion 'characteristics were investigated for all-cotton broadcldth that had re ceived liquid ammonia treatment as a final finish and as a pretreatment to durable press finish. Abrasive damage in Stoll flex abraded specimens (dry and wet condi tions) and repeatedly laundered specimens was evaluated from their stress-strain behavior and fracture characteristics as viewed in a scanning electron microscope. Stoll flex abrasion in the wet condition and repeated laundering exhibited similarities in abrasion behavior in that fiber breaks tended to result from extensive fibrillation and thinning of the fiber, with long breaks almost parallel to the fiber axis. Flex abrasion in the dry condition, on the other hand, resulted in mashing. bruising, extensive peeling, some fibrillation, spiral cracks, and ultimately spiral fiber breaks. Liquid ammonia as a final finish and pretreatment for durable press finish, as well as durable press finish by itself, exhibited modifying effects on abrasion resistance and fracture patterns in cotton.
Solubility Parameters
Authors: Siddiqui Sarfraz A. , Needles Howard L.
Published: March 2008

Several methods exist for determining, with a reasonable degree of accuracy, solubility parameters of organic compounds including dyes, fibers, and dyeing sol vents. In this review solubility parameter measurements are divided into three types: a) methods of calculation from known or determinable physical constants, b) meth ods for calculation from structural formulae, and c) experimental determination. The methods are critically reviewed and compared with other methods involving molecular theory of solutions.
Applying Shrink Resist Polymers to Wool Fabrics at Room Temperature Using Pad-Store Methods
Authors: Lewis D.M.
Published: March 2008

Shrink-resist finishing of wool fabrics using aqueous based polymer systems is usually carried out using an energy intensive pad → dry → heat cure technique. This paper describes fabric shrink-resist finishing using the Bunte salt terminated polyether, Lankrolan SHR3 (Diamond Shamrock), by a simple pad → store (room temperature) → wash-off procedure. Advantages of the method include low energy consumption, no fiber yellowing due to the absence of high temperature treatments under alkaline conditions, and ease of post dyeing.

Evidence is presented for covalent reaction of the polymer with the fiber to form mixed disulphides, improving the stability of the shrink-resist finish to such agencies as post dyeing.
Bending Properties of Triaxially Woven Fabrics
Authors: Schwartz Peter
Published: March 2008

An earlier theqretical expression for the flexural rigidity oftriaxially woven fabrics is presented and is shown to predict isotropy in bending when the triaxial fabric is . constructed from identical yarns in each set. Experimental results at different angles of orientation with respect to the fabric machine direction confirm the theoretical findings and provide more data concerning this class of fabrics.
Predicting the Hand of Nonwoven Fabrics from Simple Laboratory Measurements
Authors: Barker Roger L. , Scheininger Manette M.
Published: March 2008

The hand of some spunbonded and spunlaced nonwovens is analyzed. Laboratory tests were conducted and subjective evaluations made to compare the hand of these nonwovens with the hand of some woven fabrics sold into apparel applications. Relationships between hand and quality words such as smoothness, stiffness, and weight are analyzed. Additional correlations are made with measured fabric prop erties, including flex stiffness and elastic modulus. An empirical equation is devel oped for computing hand from simple instrument readings.
Guarded Window Test Apparatus for Determining the Insulation Value of Interior Window Coverings
Authors: Anderson John J.
Published: March 2008

An electronic test apparatus was designed for measuring winter heat flow through windows with and without interior insulating window coverings. The method pro vides reasonably accurate data on and the insulating effectiveness of various shades and draperies. The test data correlate well with results from other, more expensive and time consuming test methods.
Chemistry of Hydroxymethyl Phosphorus Compounds
Authors: Daigle Donald J. , Frank Arlen W.
Published: March 2008

The reactions of base-neutralized tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)phosphonium salts with amines and ammonia are reviewed. The mechanisms of these reactions are examined with reference to the application technology of the THPOH—NH3 process. Previ ously unpublished material and theories are included to present the current status of this area of research.
Mechanics of Texturing Thermoplastic Yarns
Authors: Smith Steven C. , Backer Stanley
Published: March 2008

This study is concerned with the behavior of stretch textured thermoplastic yam during its continuous movement through a second heater. Measurements are re ported on the influence of primary and secondary heater temperatures, as well as overfeed levels on yarn contraction, residual crimp, and filament shrinkage. Further evidence is presented of the pseudo twister effect, that is, the thermal motivation for second zone false twisting of the threadline without the aid of a mechanical twisting device. On the basis of auxiliary thermomechanical experiments, a semiquantitative mechanism is proposed to explain this behavior.
Unusual Effects of Some Zwitterion Compounds as Catalysts in Easy-Care Finishing 1
Authors: Daigle Donald J. , Reinhardt Robert M.
Published: March 2008

Aminoalkanesulfonic acids and amino acids are internal organic salts or zwit terions. In pad-dry-cure processing to impart durable press properties to cellulosic fabrics, they may be used as catalysts. Aminomethanesutfonic acid (AMSA), in particular, is about as effective a catalyst as magnesium chloride. Because of its zwitterion structure, AMSA is unlike most sulfonic acids which produce durable press fabrics with high strength losses. Mixed catalysts of magnesium chloride and the zwitterions AMSA, taurine, or glycine can be employed with dimethylol dihy droxyethyleneurea to produce fabrics with a good combination of smooth drying appearance, wrinkle resistance, serviceable strength, and moderate formaldehyde release values.
Evaluation of Carpets in the National Bureau of Standards Flooring Radiant Panel
Authors: Benisek L. , Phillips W.A.
Published: March 2008

The burning behavior of carpets of very similar construction and contract com mercial carpets made from different fibers and blends in the National Bureau of Standard Flooring Radiant Panel were significantly affected by the pile fiber com position. Carpets of 100% wool and 80/20 wool/nylon produced critical radient flux (CRF) values > 0.5 W/cm2 and these values were not affected by underlays. The CRF values of nylon carpets depended significantly on carpet construction, with low weights producing low CRF values, and decreased significantly with underlays. An increase in the imposed heat flux decreased the CRF values for nylon, but in the case of wool, CRF values significantly increased. This is probably associated with the different heat outputs and melting or charring behavior of the two fibers. Other carpet parameters that can affect CRF values are Zirpro flame-retardent treat ment of wool, shorn pile density, backing fiber composition (jute or polypropylene), and flame retardant latex.
Isolation of Indole-3 Carboxaldehyde from Cotton Plant Parts
Authors: Sankar S.S. , Gilbert R.D. , Fornes R.E.
Published: March 2008

Indole-3 carboxaldehyde was isolated from aqueous extracts of cotton plant parts by HPLC. It was identified by its mass spectrum which was identical to that of an authentic sample of indole-3 carboxaldehyde. A mechanism to account for the mass spectral fragmentation pattern is proposed.
Dispersion and Polar Force Components of Surface Tension of Some Polymer Films
Authors: Saito Masako , Yabe Akihiko
Published: March 2008

The surface tension and the dispersion and polar components of the surface tension for solids and liquids were estimated by contact angle measurement in order to apply these concepts to a detergency study. Two approximation methods, the extended Fowkes' equation and Wu's equation, were adopted for the calculations. Among the twelve experimental liquid pairs, methylene iodide/water and tricresyl phosphate/water gave values for paraffin, polyethylene, and polystyrene close to the average for the twelve pairs. Values for cellulost acetate and cellophane were there fore obtained using these two pairs. The results showed that the dispersion force component becomes larger with increasing degree of acetylation, while the polar force component becomes smaller.
A New Method for Microdust and Trash Measurement in Bale or Processed Fiber'
Authors: Shofner F.M. , Lalor W.F. , Hanley J.H.
Published: March 2008

A new, high-speed, automated instrument for measuring foreign matter including microdust and trash in bale or processed fiber is described. The method uses aero- mechanical release and separation and electro-optical sensing for microdust, trash, and lint. Data are provided proving the correlation of an experimental prototype gin monitor's readings with readings of other methods. Example data for both microdust and trash are given for both gin and textile mill cleaning machinery performance.
Lint Retrieval at Ginning: Further Study of Bale Value and Spinning Performance
Authors: Needham D.K.
Published: March 2008

Tests were conducted at USDA laboratories in Lubbock, Texas, Stoneville, Mis sissippi, and Clemson, South Carolina, and at Cotton Incorporated, Raleigh, North Carolina, to evaluate lint retrieval at ginning. Lint retrievers are designed to recover spinnable fibers from lint cleaner waste and blend them into the lint stream. This research evaluated the fiber properties and spinning performance of cottons from two growing regions ginned with and without lint retrieval. Test size was eighty half-bale lots.
Lint Retrieval at Ginning: Further Study of Bale Value and Spinning Performance
Authors: Griffin A.C. , Mangialardi G.J.
Published: March 2008

Cotton from the same field was harvested and ginned in two replications three weeks apart. The ginning treatments consisted of using a conventional machinery sequence without fiber retrieval and recycling, and using the same machinery se quence with continuous fiber retrieval recycling. Ten half-bale batches from each harvesting were processed using each ginning treatment. Samples from each batch were tested for differences in raw cotton properties, yarn manufacturing performance, and chemical finishing. Bale weights were improved 2.2% by the retrieving and re . cycling process. More of the bales from the with retrieval and recycling process were reduced in grade because of grass in the sample than from the control bales. There were no significant differences in the quality and performance factors of the raw cotton and yarn which could be attributed to differences in the ginning treatments. Some of the factors evaluated did show statistically significant differences due to the interval between harvest dates.
Developments in Wool Printing
Authors: Bell V.A. , Lewis D.M.
Published: March 2008

Traditional wool printing methods are described, stressing the two main problem areas of fabric preparation by prechlorination and print development in steamers; techniques to overcome or minimize these problems are discussed. Difficulties as sociated with special styles such as discharge and resist printing are also critically examined. Growing interest in blend printing presents special problems, and methods of overcoming these in the case of wool/polyester and wool/cotton blends are given. Recent developments in the field of transfer printing all wool fabrics are also described.
Smoldering Phenomenon Associated with Cotton'
Authors: Donaldson Darrell J. , Yeadon David A. , Harper Robert J.
Published: March 2008

Treated cotton batting is examined as a substrate for cotton upholstered furniture. Evaluation of the smoldering hazard includes the tests proposed by UFAC and NBS, together with smoldering rates and surface temperature profiles obtained using the SRRC Rate Chamber. The influence of washing on the smoldering behavior of cotton is discussed. Problem salts are identified.
Interactions of Fiber, Finish, and Wash Conditions in Laundering Cotton-Containing Fabrics'
Authors: Morton Glenn P. , Thomas Laverne B.
Published: March 2008

Two shortcomings are attributed to all-cotton durable press fabrics: inadequate wear life and high energy demand care practices. This study reports some specific solutions to these problems. Chemical degradation of durable press treated cotton fabrics due to chlorine/resin reactions can be eliminated by proper resin selection and adequate cure procedures. Physical degradation of durable press treated cotton fabrics resulting from the mechanical process of laundering can be minimized by liquid ammonia pretreatment; which makes all-cotton durable press last longer and also provides a longer lasting wash-wear appearance. Cotton fabrics, even durable press treated cotton fabrics, out perform cotton/polyester blends for soil release and resistance to soil redeposition, even at low wash temperatures. Here again the ad vantages of liquid ammonia pretreatment were evident.
Vapor Transport of Formaldehyde to Cotton'
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M.
Published: March 2008

A basic study of the transport of formaldehyde via the vapor phase to cotton was conducted. Fundamental physicochemical factors that influence vapor transport of formaldehyde to and from cotton fabrics were identified; these factors include time, temperature, and concentration parameters, which are interrelated, as well as source of the formaldehyde, nature of the fabric substrate, presence and amount of moisture, and confinement of the fabric. The effect on rate and amount of formaldehyde trans port was noted in experiments conducted with controlled adjustment of the variables. Observations on transport from formaldehyde-sorbed fabric to untreated fabric also were made.

Results of this study provide information of value to those interested in finishing cotton with formaldehyde and in formaldehyde release phenomena of finished tex tiles.
Quantitative Determination of Scopoletin and Lacinilene C 7-Methyl Ether in Aqueous Extracts of Frost-Killed Cotton Leaf and Bract by HPLC
Authors: Doolan J.G. , Fornes R.E. , Gilbert R.D.
Published: March 2008

A high-performance liquid chromatography procedure for the separation and quan tification of scopoletin and lacinilene C 7-methyl ether in aqueous extracts of cotton bract and leaf was developed. A procedure involving an aqueous extraction followed by an ethanol extraction is described. The amounts of scopoletin present in frost- killed bract and leaf which could be extracted with water were 22.6 ppm and 21.6 ppm, respectively. The amounts of lacinilene C 7-methyl ether present in, and water extractable from, frost-killed cotton bract and leaf were 17.8 ppm and 17.6 ppm, respectively. Samples of cotton bract and leaf picked before a frost were also examined. The amounts of lacinilene C 7-methyl ether present in cotton bract and leaf appear to be dependent on the physiological state of the plant. The amount of scopoletin present in the samples picked before a frost could not be determined due to insufficient resolution in the vicinity of the scopoletin peak in the HPLC chromatograms.
Photochemical Ageing of Kevlar® 49
Authors: Brown J.R. , Browne N.M. , Burchill P.J. , Egglestone G.T.
Published: March 2008

Photochemical ageing of yarns from two similar Kevlar 49 fabrics, one woven in the U.K. and the other woven in the U.S., and unwoven Kevlar 49 yarns and fila ments, was studied by changes in mechanical and molecular properties. The warp and weft yarns from each fabric showed different susceptibilities to photo-induced deterioration, as indicated by their respective tensile properties. The warp yarn of the U.K. fabric photodegraded faster than the weft yam. The reverse occurred in the U.S. material. Unwoven yarns were less susceptible to photodegradation than the fabric yams. The degradation rates remained unaltered on solvent extraction of yarn surface finish and after abrasion damage (which may occur during the weaving pro cess). Although radiation self-screening occurs within the yams, it is not sufficient to account for the differences in their photodegradation rates. The reduction in me chanical properties was not accompanied by any appreciable molecular weight changes and is therefore unlikely to be due to molecular chain scission reactions; however, the lower the initial strength of the yarn, the more rapid is the reduction in tensile strength. Photochemical ageing behavior may thus be determined by small variations in the degree of crystallinity in the fibers.