bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
IMPROVED COASTAL FLOOD RISK ESTIMATES THROUGH INTEGRATED JPM AND COUPLED PHYSICS APPROACH
Authors: Melby Jeffrey , Stehno Abigail , Massey Thomas C. , Misra Shubhra , Nadal-Caraballo Norberto , Gonzalez Victor
Published: January 2021

Large scale flood risk computation has enjoyed a metamorphosis since Hurricane Katrina. Improved characterization of risk is the result of improved computational capabilities due to super computer capacity combined with coupled regional hydrodynamic models, improved local hydrodynamic models, improved joint probability models, inclusion of the most important uncertainties, metamodels and increased computational capacity for stochastic simulation. Improvements in our understanding of, and the ability to model, the coupled hydrodynamics of surge and waves has been well documented as has been improvements in the joint probability method with optimal sampling (JPM-OS) for synthesizing synthetic tropical cyclones (TC) that correctly span the practical hazard probability space. However, maintaining the coupled physics and multivariate probability integrity through the entire flood risk computation while incorporating epistemic uncertainty has had relatively little attention. This paper addresses this latter topic within the context of the Sabine Pass to Galveston Bay, TX Pre-Construction, Engineering and Design, Hurricane Coastal Storm Surge and Wave Hazard Assessment.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/qYFTO6l7UME
A COMPREHENSIVE EVALUATION OF FLOOD HAZARDS FOR SABINE TO GALVESTON, TX, USA REGION
Authors: Stehno Abigail L. , Melby Jeffrey A. , Massey Thomas C. , Misra Shubhra , Nadal-Caraballo Norberto , Taflanidis Alex , Lynett Patrick , Gonzalez Victor
Published: January 2021

The Sabine Pass to Galveston Bay, TX Pre-Construction, Engineering and Design: Hurricane Coastal Storm Surge and Wave Hazard Assessment (S2G) includes flood hazard assessment for over 100 km of levee/floodwall/gate coastal storm risk management systems. The focus of the flood hazard assessment was to compute coupled water level and wave response near the structures, runup, and overtopping rate, combined hydrostatic and hydrodynamic pressure distributions on walls, overtopping nappe characteristics and other pertinent responses stochastically. Joint statistical analysis of forcing parameters, including epistemic uncertainty, was conducted to compute hazards. Design was based on varied confidence levels and thus reflected uncertainty. The approach brought high-fidelity components together to produce accurate probabilistic coastal flood hazard assessment.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/U_dFfj2oJ2A
URBAN DUNES: PROMOTING BWN DUNE FORMATION AT NOURISHED BEACHES THROUGH SPATIAL DESIGN
Authors: Bergen Janneke van , Nijhuis Steffen , Mulder Jan , Wijnberg Kathelijne
Published: January 2021

Sandy shores offer a multitude of ecosystem services; regulating- (e.g. protection against flooding), production- (e.g. drinking water) and cultural services (e.g. recreation), all depending on the quality of supporting services (e.g. natural balances of water, nutrients and sediment). For sandy shores especially, the long-term physical existence is depending on the sediment balance. Therefore, based on Building with Nature (BwN) principles, sediment balances and -dynamics represent essential components of any spatial design of sustainable urbanized sandy shores. Examples of such design are nourishments where the sand balance of the system is amplified and natural dynamics distribute sediment ashore. This approach is used in the Netherlands to compensate for coastal erosion with a total yearly nourishment volume of 12 million m3 of sand. Typical magnitudes of individual nourishments are 1 to 2 million m3, whereas the Sand motor is an experimental mega nourishment of 20 million m3. After nourishment, the sediment is transported by natural processes (waves, tide, wind etc) contributing to the growth of dunes. The question is how to support this dune development, not just to improve the coastal safety, but also the combined use with other urban & ecological programs in the coastal zone. In this contribution we discuss spatial design principles and their influence on the transport of sediment for the formation of dunes; supporting flood safety, urban and landscape qualities. This requires an interplay of nourishment, directed sediment transport in the beach-dune interface and the desired buffer capacity established by the dunes. Depending on the preferred defence strategy (seaward, landward or consolidating) different spatial interventions can be made to enhance dune formation after nourishment.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/fNnVkDS1Gig
MULTI-CRITERIA RATINGS METHODOLOGY FOR SUITABILITY EVALUATION OF OPEN PIER SITES
Authors: Inocencio Ismael Aragorn , Cruz Eric , Kasilag Edgardo
Published: January 2021

Along a long project coastline, the optimal selection of an open pier site is based on the criterion of minimum wave agitation under prevailing wave conditions. Where multiple sites are being considered, it becomes imperative to carry out a ratings approach where the possible sites are assessed based on a ratings scale with objective weighting coefficients. This paper discusses a methodology applied to a multiple pier site feasibility study of a proposed cargo pier along a relatively sheltered coastline in the Philippines. In order to select the optimal site based on both technical and operational considerations, a multi-criteria ratings approach was applied.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/2VtyKptBIVM
OPERABILITY INVESTIGATION OF A MIDWEST WESTERN AUSTRALIAN MARINA SUBJECTED TO GRAVITY, INFRAGRAVITY, AND TRANSMITTED WAVES
Authors: Hansen Demont , Thotagamuwage Darshani , Tian Lei
Published: January 2021

Batavia Coast Marina (BCM) in Geraldton, Midwest WA is one of 50 Department of Transport (DoT) coastal facilities spanning Western Australia from Wyndham to Esperance. Since construction of BCM was completed in 1995, there have been significant operability issues in the form of excessive motion of moored vessels, mooring line breakages, and damage to pens at the facility. The objective of the study is to investigate the causes of BCM operability issues including Gravity and IG wave penetration, transmission through the breakwater, and basin resonance. This is accomplished by a comprehensive 3-year data collection program of strategically placed instrumentation including 3 Acoustic Wave and Current (AWAC) devices, 6 pressure sensors, an Aquadopp, Waverider, vessel motions, and structural inspections.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/tOxTvx0pqns
ECOSYSTEM BIOMASS AS A KEY PARAMETER DETERMINING ITS COASTAL PROTECTION SERVICE
Authors: Maza Maria , Lopez-Arias Fernando , Lara Javier L. , Losada Inigo J.
Published: January 2021

Estimation of the flow energy dissipation induced by an ecosystem that accounts for its characteristics (i.e. biomechanical properties, morphology, density) and the incident hydrodynamic conditions is crucial if ecosystem-based coastal protection measurements want to be implemented. Characterization of a vegetated ecosystem by measuring leaf traits, biomechanical properties of plants and the number of individuals per unit area involves a lot of effort and is case-specific. Standing biomass can be a unique variable defining the flow energy attenuation capacity of the ecosystem. To explore its relation to the induced energy attenuation on the flow, a new set of experiments using real vegetation with contrasting morphology and biomechanical properties, and subjected to different incident flow conditions is presented. The obtained standing biomass-attenuation relationships will help to quantify the expected coastal protection provided by different vegetated ecosystems based on their standing biomass and the flow conditions.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/-qaKkBWZApk
COASTAL RESILIENCY APPROACHES
Authors: Tschirky Paul
Published: January 2021

Our environment has been experiencing changes in climate patterns in ways that were not anticipated by past designs. Coastal engineers are increasing at the center of complex multidisciplinary projects. With changing climate, rising sea levels, and growing coastal population centers, coastal engineers are key players in developing solutions for both built infrastructure and natural systems. This presentation will discuss the challenges to coastal engineering and examine some coastal resiliency approaches on recent projects and experiences in the United States.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/prjG4LTU-iU
ENHANCE DUNE-BUILDING PROCESSES WITH NATURE-BASED NOURISHMENT DESIGN
Authors: Hallin Caroline , Vries Sierd de , IJzendoorn Christa van
Published: January 2021

Vast coastal stretches around the world rely on dunes for flood protection. At the same time, the protection level of many dune systems can be undermined due to coastal erosion, sea-level rise, and greater population densities. To enhance dune building processes and the growth of coastal dunes, nature-based solutions, such as multi-purpose sand nourishments, are increasingly being implemented. However, the performance of the nourishment projects in terms of dune growth do not always match the expectations due to unforeseen supply-limiting factors (Hoonhout and de Vries, 2019). Sediment on a beach should be within a site-specific range of grain sizes to be available for pick up by the wind and deposition in the dunes. However, the grain-size characteristics do also influence several other supply-limiting factors, e.g., surface moisture, crust development, and beach slope, making nourishment design complicated. The process-based model Aeolis has been developed to predict aeolian transport rates considering several supply limiting factors. In this study, we introduce a new surface moisture functionality in Aeolis and demonstrate how the model can be used to optimize nourishment designs with respect to dune build-up. A number of test cases are presented to illustrate how grain size, sorting, and beach morphology are influencing aeolian transport rates.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/K_eiZ5kPk2g
RISK FORECAST SYSTEM FOR MOORED SHIPS
Authors: PINHEIRO Liliana , FORTES Conceicao , REIS Maria Teresa , SANTOS Joao , SOARES Carlos GUEDES
Published: January 2021

Port terminals downtimes lead to large economic losses and largely affect the port's overall competitiveness. In the majority of cases, port activities such as ships' approach maneuvers and loading/unloading operations, are conditioned or suspended, based solely on weather or wave forecasts. These forecasts do not always result in effective hazardous conditions for the ships. Additionally, moored ships often experience problems of excessive movements and mooring forces in apparent good weather conditions. If, instead, one could forecast the ships' movements and mooring forces, risk assessment would be much more accurate. This would allow selecting an appropriate reinforced mooring arrangement and thus minimizing effective terminal downtime. In this paper, the development of a risk forecast system for moored ships, that takes into account all of the moored ship's system, is detailed and an illustration on how it applies to real ports is presented.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/ugDN9Tqno3E
EXTENDING TRANSIT WINDOWS AND VESSEL DRAFTS IN PORT BOTANY USING A NEXT GENERATION, PHYSICS-BASED OPERATIONAL SYSTEM
Authors: Mortensen Simon , Holliday Phillip
Published: January 2021

Servicing the largest population centre in Australia, Port Botany is vital to the economic wellbeing of Sydney and New South Wales. The channel entrance is often subject to energetic Pacific Ocean swell, moderate tides and occasionally severe winds. In August 2019, the Port Authority of NSW (PANSW) adopted the NCOS ONLINE system to provide enhanced decision support for under keel clearance management of deep drafted vessels in Port Botany. The technical framework and real-life application of the physics-based operational system NCOS ONLINE is presented in this paper.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/uPvX_0DNjRo
APPLICATION OF RAINFLOW TECHNIQUES TO THE DESIGN AND OPERATION OF PORT INFRASTRUCTURE
Authors: Castillo Carmen , Molina Rafael , Campos Alvaro , Garcia-Valdecasas Javier
Published: January 2021

The concept of rainflow comes from the fatigue damage field where it has demonstrated its appropriateness (see Johannesson, 1999). In port engineering, rainflow counting has shown some serious advantages over traditional methods such as the zero-downcrossing method but it is not widely used. This work aims at showing some applications of this technique to problems detected in port operation and reliability after briefly introducing the concept.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/_gwjsDd3yiE
BEACH PLANFORM EQUILIBRIUM, APPLICATION AND METHODOLOGIES FOR CLIMATE CHANGE RESILIENCY CONSIDERATION
Authors: Dabees Mohamed
Published: January 2021

Climate change and sea level rise (SLR) present a challenge and added uncertainty for managing coastal areas. Many coastal cities and developed coastal areas are assessing future vulnerabilities to SLR and developing adaptation plans for improved resiliency. Equilibrium conditions for beach planform can be critical to the long-term stability of beaches and dunes fronting coastal cities. In many cases, resiliency and adaptation programs for beachfront areas are based on assumptions of evaluating scenarios of higher water elevations and hydrodynamic forcing under present time topographic and bathymetric conditions. These evaluation parameters suggest that the coastline and existing morphological features are near equilibrium condition and are expected to remain near similar equilibrium over the SLR scenarios under consideration. Such assumptions may be limited to open coast conditions where the beach and the developed coastal planform follows theoretical open coast conditions or constant equilibrium planform. This paper discusses factors influencing beach planform along the Florida Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico coastlines and proposes conceptual methodologies in various applications.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/gWsbmi6VIo0
MAREJADAS (COASTAL STORMS) IMPACT SCALE FOR WARNING SYSTEMS
Authors: Molina Mauricio
Published: January 2021

The magnitude of the impact produced by extreme waves events on the coast (such as run-up, erosion of beaches, structure overtopping and damage) depends on the combination of the magnitude of local wave, tide level and coast features (Ciavola & Coco 2017). All these factors, considering mainly those necessary to determine the magnitude of local wave, show that the impact that can be observed by this phenomenon can present important differences in nearby coasts. In Chile, the events of July 3, 2013, August 8, 2015, and January 2016 were the most energetic of the last decades from each generation zone (Winckler et.al. 2017), those that caused considerable damage in specific places on the Chilean coast. Since these events, the term Marejadas became popular and the phenomenon calls for high interest to this day.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/YhgM2K0vHTw
INTERACTIVE AUGMENTED REALITY SIMULATION SYSTEM FOR COASTAL HAZARD EDUCATION
Authors: Zhou Zili , Lynett Patrick
Published: January 2021

The abstract is based on the project of "extended reality" for effective communication of hazards from extreme coastal events, such as tsunamis and hurricanes. The project attends to use augmented reality (AR) and mixed reality (MR) to allow, for example, a coastal resident to see a digital tsunami crashing onshore and bulldozing through a community, all while standing on their beach or in their driveway. This type of experience provides an emotional impact and long-lasting memory that will guide future planning decisions and proactivity. In this abstract, we focus on applying mobile augmented reality (AR) to a tsunami simulation system and creating this digital extreme event experience. The tsunami modeling studies use the methods and models described in Tavakkol & Lynett (2017), Lynett et al. (2017) and Lynett & Tavakkol (2017).Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/TD4qI5QdAEc
A TROPICAL CYCLONE WIND, WAVE AND STORM TIDE RISK DESIGN AND WARNING TOOLBOX FOR AUSTRALIA
Authors: Harper Bruce , Mason Luciano
Published: January 2021

The paper will describe the development and operation of a comprehensive tropical cyclone wind, wave and storm tide risk design and warning software toolbox that covers all of tropical-influenced Australia, The toolbox is designed to provide both rapid assessment and detailed design capabilities for coastal, port, offshore and nearshore design, including projected future climate change. It also provides real-time emergency management functionality. The toolbox provides a probabilistic design framework that facilitates the essential need for sensitivity analysis of both inputs and outputs without pre-conceived risk thresholds. It provides the essential hazard component in a robust and verified context that can then, depending on the application, enable more focused and efficient deterministic modelling stages using models of choice.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/pssgiYdkEbM
NATURE-BASED COASTAL PROTECTION: WAVE DAMPING BY FLEXIBLE SALT MARSH VEGETATION
Authors: Veelen Thomas J van , Karunarathna Harshinie , Bennett William G , Fairchild Tom P , Reeve Dominic E
Published: January 2021

The ability of coastal vegetation to attenuate waves has been well established (Moller et al., 2014). Salt marshes are vegetated coastal wetlands that can act as nature- based coastal defenses. They exhibit a range of plant species, which have been shown to differ in the amount of wave damping they provide (Mullarney & Henderson, 2018). Recent studies have shown that plant flexibility is a key parameter that controls wave energy dissipation (Paul et al., 2016). Yet, no model exists that includes plant flexibility in computationally efficient manner for large-scale coastal zones. Therefore, we have developed a new model for flexible vegetation based on the key mechanisms in the wave-vegetation interaction and applied it to an estuary with diverse salt marsh vegetation.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/AjnFx3aFSzs
MODELLING TRANSPORT AND FATE OF WOODY DEBRIS IN COASTAL WATERS
Authors: Murphy Enda , Cornett Andrew , Nistor Ioan , Baker Scott
Published: January 2021

Woody debris is ubiquitous in coastal waters, and on shorelines proximate to forested regions. Logs and driftwood play a vital role in coastal and global ecosystems, and can provide valuable data to support studies of oceanography, geomorphology, ecology, history and archaeology. There is growing interest in the role that woody debris can play in nature-based coastal engineering solutions. However, large quantities of woody debris in coastal waters can pose significant hazards to communities, infrastructure, navigation and ecosystems. Thus, the changing abundance and distribution of coastal driftwood, driven by factors including human activities and climate change, has potential for both positive and negative consequences. A better understanding of coastal driftwood fate and transport processes is needed to inform management practices, uses, and sustainable ecosystem management. To date, research on physical transport of woody debris, has been concentrated on tsunami and inland (riverine) environments, where spatiotemporal scales and driving processes are significantly different from typical climatic or even extreme (storm) conditions in coastal waters. In this paper, we describe a series of scale physical model experiments, conducted to provide insight to debris transport processes in coastal waters under a range of controlled wave and water level conditions. The experiments were conducted in a 50.4-metre by 29.4-metre wave basin, in which a 1/30 scale model of a natural shoreline comprised of a shallow fringing reef, a sandy shoreline, and several small coastal structures (groynes and breakwaters) was constructed. Wooden dowels and tree branches, scaled to replicate the size distribution of woody debris observed on Pacific Northwest shorelines, were released in the model. Despite some limitations (e.g., model scale effects), the experimental test results provided several valuable insights to factors affecting debris mobility in coastal areas. The results will inform the parameterization of important physical processes in a numerical model being developed to predict the fate and transport of woody debris in coastal waters.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/hvBHZVObDhY
USING SPECIFICATION OF OVERBURDEN TO IMPROVE NUMERICAL LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT MODELING
Authors: Watts Irene , Zarillo Gary
Published: January 2021

The Sebastian Inlet Florida Coastal Processes Model computes sediment transport pathways in the nearshore to support sediment management activities. Longshore sediment transport rates are computed by the model and compared with field data. The model is run with two alternative specifications of hard bottom to investigate the impact on computed transport rates. One alternative specifies known hard bottom outcrop locations and the second, a uniform one-meter overburden throughout the model domain. The uniform overburden specification improved longshore sediment transport rate computations throughout the model domain. The goal of this work is to improve upon nearshore sediment transport and morphology by addressing uncertainty in hard bottom locations and ephemeral coverage. This paper documents the modeling effort and the changes necessary to improve model performance in the nearshore.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/u1bNOca5qUo
LONG-TERM PREDICTION OF LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE CONTEXT OF CLIMATE CHANGE
Authors: Zarifsanayei Amin Reza , Etemad-Shahidi Amir , Cartwright Nick , Strauss Darrell
Published: January 2021

Due to climate change impacts on atmospheric circulation, global and regional wave climate in many coastal regions around the world might change. Any changes in wave parameters could result in significant changes in wave energy flux, the patterns of coastal sediment transport, and coastal evolution. Although some studies have tried to address the potential impacts of climate change on longshore sediment transport (LST) patterns, they did not sufficiently consider the uncertainties arising from different sources in the projections. In this study, the uncertainty associated with the choice of model used for the estimation of LST is examined. The models were applied to a short stretch of coastline located in Northern Gold Coast, Australia, where a huge volume of sediment is transported along the coast annually. The ensemble of results shows that the future mean annual and monthly LST rate might decrease by about 11 percent, compared to the baseline period. The results also show that uncertainty associated with LST estimation is significant. Hence, it is proposed that this uncertainty, in addition to that from other sources, should be considered to quantify the contribution of each source in total uncertainty. In this way, a probabilistic-based framework can be developed to provide more meaningful output applicable to long-term coastal planningRecorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/3CGU9RcGYjE
CASE STUDY OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS HAZARD ANALYSIS FOR RECREATIONAL BEACH DEVELOPMENT
Authors: Reyes Clint Chester , Cruz Eric , Santos Jose Carlo Eric
Published: January 2021

Nearshore current generation at two coastlines contemplated for beach resort development is studied with the use of a numerical model for coexisting waves and currents. A nested-mesh technique was applied to consolidate the 2 domains of coarse and fine bathymetric data and to translate deep water wave conditions at the nearshore mesh boundary. The hydrodynamic model is validated using tide data at the nearest tide stations, while offshore wave conditions, determined from a wave hindcasting method, are inputted as quasi-stationary forcing. Simulations results of wave-current co-existing fields indicate local areas of rip currents within the project coastlines. In order to evaluate the safe swimming zones, an analysis of threshold currents under idealized conditions of human characteristics was carried out, that indicated a threshold of 0.16 mps for pure currents. With a safety margin to account for co-existing waves, rip current zones not exceeding 0.1 mps are considered safe and are used to designate the safe swimming areas for the 2 locations.
PRELIMINARY ASSESSMENT OF WAVE ENERGY IN SRI LANKA
Authors: Ariyarathne Kusalika , Jayarathne Pavithra
Published: January 2021

Preliminary results of a numerical model developed to detail spatial and temporal assessment of theoretically available near shore wave energy, and potential wave energy extracting sites, along the Sri Lankan coast is presented in this paper. Wave energy is estimated applying Danish Hydraulic Institute's Mike 21 Spectral Wave (SW) module. The model is developed and applied covering an area along the coast line of entire country extending from 315000 to 640000 mE, and 602000 to 1164000 mN. Model was run with boundary inputs of wind and wave, based on long term measured, and long term hindcast directional wave data available at seven locations, which are well distributed around the country. Model calibration and validation are carried out based on long term measured directional wave data at Colombo, Sri Lanka. Based on the estimated wave energy density maps, and spatial and temporal energy variations, Hambantota, in South East coast is identified as the most feasible location for wave energy harnessing. Annual and seasonal availability of the wave energy, for Hambantota area, at 25 m depth, were looked into in detail. In the above area, mean annual energy potential was estimated as 10 kW/m at 25 m depth, whereas maximum annual potential energy was estimated as 36 kW/m. During South West monsoon, where high waves are present, the mean energy potential is estimated as 15 kW/m.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/dPa9istaB7A
ASSESSING THE EFFECT OF EARTHQUAKE-INDUCED UPLIFT AND ENGINEERING WORKS ON A SURF BREAK OF NATIONAL SIGNIFICANCE
Authors: Shand Tom , Weppe Simon , Quilter Peter , Short Andrew , Blumberg Ben , Reinen-Hamill Richard
Published: January 2021

In November 2016 a Mw7.8 earthquake struck the northeast coast of the New Zealand South Island triggering numerous large landslips which severed key infrastructure and caused parts of the coastline to be uplifted by up to 3 m. This affected a notable surf break at Mangamaunu, north of Kaikoura. The uplift of the seabed at this location caused changes in the wave breaking characteristics and, at the same time, infrastructure recovery efforts proposed construction of engineering works along the site shoreline. The potential impacts of these works on the surf break caused significant local, national and international concern. An extensive study was initiated to better understand the characteristics of the surf break, the effects of the earthquake-induced seabed uplift and the potential effects of the engineering works. This included collection of topographic and bathymetric data using a combination of LiDAR, multibeam and an innovative UAV-based collection method within the surf zone. This provided a seamless terrain model which could be adjusted to pre-earthquake levels based on observed uplift rates. Two fixed camera stations were established with ground control information to collect data on wave breaking position and GPS-watches were deployed and utilized by the local surfing community to collect similar data. Image processing algorithms were developed to extract wave breaking on a wave-by-wave basis and aggregate to obtain breaking exceedance contours, an improvement from threshold analysis on time-averaged imagery. Both physical and numerical modelling was undertaken to better understand the effect of the earthquake and of the proposed works on wave characteristics, particularly wave reflection. The non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH (Smit et al., 2013) was used to evaluate changes in the breaking position, the incident and reflected wave energy gradients, and surf zone hydrodynamics during a range of typical and optimal surfing conditions for present day and future water levels. An innovative wave breaking position post-processing routine was developed to allow assessment of the impact of reflected waves on the surfability of incoming wave forms on a wave-by-wave basis. Results found that the breaking mechanics of the surf break is controlled not only by nearshore bathymetry around break point but also offshore features which cause focusing of wave energy. The uplift has caused significant changes to the breaking characteristics, with increased wave focusing, breaking and dissipation. The proposed engineering works were found to potentially cause increased wave reflection at the outer part of the surf break during high water levels, however the spatial and temporal characteristics of this reflection mean that direct impacts on surfability are likely to be limited.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/u6nLAp-gQxw
SIMULATIVE ANALYSIS OF THE PROPAGATION OF A FAR-SOURCE HISTORICAL TSUNAMI ONTO PHILIPPINE COASTS
Authors: Reyes Clint Chester , Cruz Eric , Kasilag Edgardo , Cruz Laurenz Luigi
Published: January 2021

A simulative analysis methodology is presented and discussed to hindcast the propagation and shallow water transformation of a historical tsunami wave. The initial pulse of water surface induced is numerically modelled based on known geophysical data of earthquake magnitude and seismically induced seabed displacements. The propagation model accounts for the trans-sea movement, long wave propagation and damping, and shallow water transformations but excluding wave runup on the foreshore. The methodology is applied to the Philippine Trench 2012 tsunamigenic event using secondary data from regional geophysical databases and yielded good agreement with observed tsunami heights and arrival times recorded for local and regional locations, particularly at deeper and farther locations from the source.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/SU7IKLh2NDM
MODELLING OF WAVE OVERTOPPING AT DIKES USING OPENFOAM
Authors: Chen Weiqiu , Warmink Jord , Gent Marcel van , Hulscher Suzanne
Published: January 2021

The average overtopping discharge is an important parameter for the design of flood defences. Several empirical formulas are available for predicting the overtopping discharge at dikes. However, these empirical formulas often have their specific applicable conditions. To complement with the empirical methods, a numerical model has been developed using the open source CFD package OpenFOAM to model the wave overtopping at dikes. Systematic calibration and validation of the numerical model are performed. The influences of the mesh, solver, turbulence model and roughness height on the modelled results of the average overtopping discharge have been investigated during the model calibration. The simulations show that the turbulence model increases the accuracy of the numerical model for predicting the average overtopping discharge under wave breaking conditions. The calibrated model is then validated by comparing the modelled average overtopping discharges with the measured ones from the physical model tests. Results show that the OpenFOAM model is capable of predicting the average overtopping discharge accurately at dikes that have a smooth straight waterside slope.
LONG-WAVE MITIGATION STUDY FOR THE PORT OF NGQURA
Authors: Troch Christophe , Terblanche Luther , Rossouw Marius , Ntantala Zanele , Plessis Gerrit du
Published: January 2021

Solutions to the long-wave induced moored ship motion problems at the Port of Ngqura were investigated in this study. Long-wave mitigation options were modelled with various layout modifications to the present model of the port, which has been validated with measured data. The numerical model simulations were used to derive long-term data sets inside the Port. Several moored ship motion simulations, using alternative conventional and dynamic mooring options, were performed for an extreme wave and wind condition for each berth at the port. Preferred port layout options and optimal mooring solutions were then determined for each berth. A complete framework of wave and ship motion simulations were performed for the preferred mitigation options. The ship motions and mooring line forces were determined for the relevant vessels at selected berths. This allowed for berth operability and downtime statistics to be determined, taking the limiting wave height and allowable mooring line criteria into account. Since several port layout options and different mooring arrangements were assessed, a Multi-Criteria-Analysis (MCA) was followed to determine the best possible solution.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/y79b158riGE
COMBINING FLOOD DAMAGE MITIGATION WITH TIDAL ENERGY GENERATION: LOWERING THE EXPENSE OF STORM SURGE BARRIER COSTS
Authors: Basco David
Published: January 2021

Storm surge barriers across tidal inlets with navigation gates and tidal-flow gates to mitigate interior flood damage (when closed) and minimize ecological change (when open) are expensive. Daily high velocity tidal flows through the tidal-flow gate openings can drive hydraulic turbines to generate electricity. Money earned by tidal energy generation can be used to help pay for the high costs of storm surge barriers. This paper describes grey, green, and blue design functions for barriers at tidal estuaries. The purpose of this paper is to highlight all three functions of a storm surge barrier and their necessary tradeoffs in design when facing the unknown future of rising seas.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/Yjp3b0gU3_U
EVALUATION OF VEGETATED DUNES FOR EROSION RESISTANCE AGAINST TSUNAMI OVERFLOW
Authors: Watanabe Kunihiro , Kato Fuminori
Published: January 2021

A total of 14 soil samples were collected from sand dunes without scattering, and the process of tsunami-induced erosion was observed using hydraulic model experiments. The densities of vegetation roots were measured at 45 points on seven beaches along the Japanese coast. The results of the experiment confirmed that the roots of vegetation highly affected the resistance of soil against erosion. Based on this result, an erosion model based on the index alpha was proposed, and the relationship between alpha and root density was described. Then, the applicability of the proposed erosion model was investigated using numerical simulations.
REDUCED COMPLEXITY MODELING OF SHORELINE RESPONSE BEHIND OFFSHORE BREAKWATERS
Authors: Elghandour Ahmed , Roelvink Dano , Huisman Bas , Reyns Johan , Costas Susana , Nienhuis Jaap
Published: January 2021

Prediction of the shoreline response behind offshore breakwaters is essential for coastal protection projects. Due to the complexity of the processes behind the breakwaters (e.g., wave diffraction, currents, longshore transport), detailed modelling needs high computational efforts. Therefore, simplifying the process effect in a simpler coastline model could be efficient. In this study, the coastline evolution model ShorelineS is used. A new routine was implemented in the model to adjust the wave heights and angles behind the offshore breakwaters. Two approaches from the literature and a newly introduced one were tested in this study. The model free grid system was used to simply track the breaker line; such an advantage also helped to form tombolo, which is not common for these types of models. The tests showed promising results for single and multi breakwaters systems; however, the newly introduced approach still needs further testing and refinement for better performance and less computational cost.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/mdCpmSQFO1Y
SIMULATION OF 2004 TSUNAMI INUNDATION IN GALLE CITY IN SRI LANKA AND REVISIT THE PRESENT EVACUATION MEASURES
Authors: Laknath D.P.C. , Josiah N.R. , Sewwandi K.A.H.S. , Araki S.
Published: January 2021

Tsunami inundation was successfully reproduced for the Galle City, Sri Lanka using Delft3D-Flow model and Delft Dashboard Tsunami Tool. Previously identified tsunami hazard maps agreed with the simulation results. Existing tsunami early warning system and preparedness for evacuation are in a favourable condition. Based on the outcome of numerical simulation and field investigations, suitable horizontal evacuation measures were proposed, and vertical evacuation points were suggested primarily considering the identified hazardous zones with lack of proposed buildings and evacuation routes in previous studies.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/g4V0c8GQepE
ROLE OF SPATIAL VARIABILITY OF SOIL RESISTANCE IN ALONGSHORE VARIABILITY OF COASTAL BARRIERS RESPONSE TO SUPERSTORM SURGES
Authors: Elsayed Saber M. , Goseberg Nils
Published: January 2021

Sand dunes and other natural coastal barriers (e.g. barrier islands) represent important components of the defense system against consequences of storm surges. However, in many coastal systems, major storm surges represent important drivers of coastal erosion. Increased extreme events potentially result in accelerated coastal erosion, coastal barrier breaching, and coastal flooding. The response of a barrier to a storm surge is often determined by mutual interaction among the driving hydrodynamics, the subsequent morphodynamics, and the local geology, including spatial variations of subaqueous bathymetry and subaerial topography. However, the effect of alongshore variability of soil properties on the alongshore varying response is not yet considered. Therefore, this study examines soil parameters that may affect coastal erosion during major storm surges. Moreover, it applies a novel extension of the numerical model XBeach that accounts for spatial variation of soil properties to an artificial dune system of spatially varying soil permeability. Results showed that variability of soil permeability alongshore the dune results in alongshore varying resistance to erosion so that breaches may occur at the locations of less resistance that are corresponding to locations of higher soil permeability. Outcomes of the numerical simulations proved also that reduced soil permeability represents a nature-based solution that increases the resilience of natural defense systems during major storm surges by mitigating rates of coastal erosion.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/1ERwbW5BmYA
ORTHOGONAL WAVE CURRENT INTERACTION OVER A FIXED RIPPLED BED: PRELIMINARY RESULTS OF AN EXPERIMENTAL CAMPAIGN
Authors: Faraci Carla , Ruggeri Alessia , Marino Massimiliano , Musumeci Rosaria E. , Foti Enrico
Published: January 2021

This paper reports some results obtained in the framework of the TA WINGS, funded by the EU through the Hydralab+ program. The project was aimed at investigating the hydrodynamic effects of an orthogonal wave onto a current in order to understand the nature of the velocity distribution along the water column over fixed ripples. Velocity profiles were acquired within the DHI shallow water tank by means of several Vectrinos in order to investigate the effects of wave-current interaction. A comparison between wave only case and wave plus current case showed that, when the current overlaps to waves, the recirculating cells formed near the bed are flatter than those formed in wave only. Moreover, the vorticity increases outside the boundary layer and decreases inside it when the current superposes to the wave.
INVESTIGATING MACHINE LEARNING FOR VIRTUAL WAVE MONITORING
Authors: Peach Leo , Carthwright N. , Strauss D.
Published: January 2021

Wave monitoring is a time consuming and costly endeavour which, despite best e orts, can be subject to occasional periods of missing data. This paper investigates the application of machine learning to create "virtual" wave height (Hs), period (Tz) and direction (Dp) parameters. Two supervised machine learning algorithms were applied using long term wave parameter datasets sourced from four wave monitoring stations in relatively close geographic proximity. The machine learning algorithms demonstrated reasonable performance for some parameters through testing, with Hs performing best overall followed closely by Tz; Dp was the most challenging to predict and performed relatively the poorest. The creation of such "virtual" wave monitoring stations could be used to hindcast wave conditions, fill observation gaps or extend data beyond that collected by the physical instrument.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/GM3EG2_SQa0
MODEL FOR PREDICTING 3-D BEACH CHANGES UNDER COMPOUND ACTIONS OF WAVES AND WIND
Authors: Yokota Takuya , Kobayashi Akio , Uda Takaaki , Serizawa Masumi , Noshi Yasuhito , Katsuki Atsunari
Published: January 2021

A model for predicting 3-D beach changes in an extensive area including beach and backshore areas was developed, taking the effects due to both waves and windblown sand into account. In the calculation of beach changes, the BG model (a model for predicting beach changes based on Bagnold's concept) was employed, and a cellular automaton method was used to calculate the backshore changes due to the effect of windblown sand. To validate the model applicability, a reproduction calculation was carried out for the beach formed at the corner of Futtsu new port. The calculation results were in good agreement with the measurement results.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/905aRlNAOjA
MODELLING THE EFFECT OF COASTLINE ORIENTATION ON STORM EROSION AT THE SYLT ISLAND, NORTH SEA
Authors: Dissanayake Pushpa , Winter Christian
Published: January 2021

The effect of coastline orientation on storm erosion was investigated using a hybrid numerical modelling approach (Delft3D and XBeach) on the convex-shape North Sea coast of Sylt. Storm impacts were simulated using different severity events occurring in a cluster and alone. Both models predicted reasonable wave dynamics (RMSE of wave spectral density 0.45 m2/Hz). XBeach resulted in higher erosion above MSL than Delft3D. High severity events approached the coast from the SW- NW sector (i.e., dominant storm approach on this coast). The convex-shape of the coastline provided however different storm landfall at individual locations along the coast. The coastal stretch from the apex to the North showed high vulnerability to storm erosion with the highest erosion at the apex, when the storm events approach from the northwesterly directions. This coastal stretch draws attention in the application of management strategies to withstand the storm erosion.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/JP7K-5itPnI
DISTRIBUTION OF INDIVIDUAL WAVE OVERTOPPING VOLUMES ON A SLOPING STRUCTURE WITH A PERMEABLE FORESHORE
Authors: Salauddin Md , O'Sullivan John , Abolfathi Soroush , Dong Shudhi , Pearson Jonathan
Published: January 2021

Maximum wave overtopping volumes on sea defences are an indicator for identifying risks to people and properties from wave hazards. The probability distribution of individual overtopping volumes can generally be described by a two-parameter Weibull distribution function (shape and scale parameters). Therefore, the reliable prediction of maximum individual wave overtopping volumes at coastal structures relies on an accurate estimation of the shape factor in the Weibull distribution. This study contributes to an improved understanding of the distribution of individual wave overtopping volumes at sloping structures by analysing the wave-by-wave overtopping volumes obtained from physical model experiments on a 1V:2H sloped impermeable structure with a permeable shingle foreshore of slope 1V:20H. Measurements of the permeable shingle foreshore were benchmarked against those from an identical experimental set-up with a smooth impermeable foreshore (1V:20H) of the same geometry. Results from both experimental set-ups were compared to commonly used empirical formulations, underpinned by the assumption that an impermeable foreshore exists in front of the sea structure. The effect on the shape factor in the Weibull distribution of incident wave steepness, relative crest freeboard, probability of overtopping waves and discharge are examined to determine the variation of individual overtopping volumes with respect to these key parameters. A key finding from the study is that no major differences in Weibull distribution shape parameter were observed for the tested impermeable and permeable sloped foreshores. Existing empirical formulae were also shown to predict reasonably well the Weibull distribution shape parameter, b, at sloping structures with both impermeable and permeable slopes.
ANALYSIS OF THE IMPACT PROCESS AT DIKES WITH CROWN WALLS AND PARAPETS
Authors: Palma Giuseppina , Formentin Sara Mizar , Zanuttigh Barbara
Published: January 2021

This paper is focused on the analysis of the impact process at dikes with crown walls and parapets under breaking and non-breaking waves. A small-scale laboratory campaign was performed at the Hydraulic Laboratory of Bologna. The experiments were aimed to analyze the vertical pressure distribution along the crown wall and the resulting wave forces, by varying geometrical and hydraulic parameters. The tested configurations included different off-shore slopes, dike crest widths, crown-wall heights, dike crest freeboards and the inclusion of the parapet. The measurements were combined with the image analysis of the run-up and of the wave impact process. A sub-set of the experiments was numerically reproduced, with the openFOAM modelling suite, to support and to extend the experimental results. The results confirmed the link between the air content, the shape and the magnitude of the pressures according to the breaker type, already observed for larger-scale experiments.
MATAGORDA SHIP CHANNEL AND ITS ENTRANCE'S NAVIGATION EFFICIENCY AND SAFETY IMPROVEMENT VIA ADCIRC AND CMS MODEL SIMULATION
Authors: Lin Lihwa , Demirbilek Zeki , Shih Tzenge-Huey
Published: January 2021

The present study investigated alternatives including deepening/widening of Matagorda Ship Channel in the south central coast of Texas to improve navigation safety through entrance inlet channel by using ADCIRC and CMS numerical models. The alternatives modify bayside channel depths from 38 ft to 50 ft, referenced to Mean Lower Low Water (MLLW), and widths from 200 ft to 600 ft, and deepen the entrance channel from 38 ft to 55 ft MLLW and widen the channel from 300 ft to 600 ft. The alternatives include seven new dredged material placement areas along the ship channel. Model results show the proposed ship channel dimensions will slightly increase flow efficiency and current magnitude in Matagorda Bay. Current velocities in and around ship channel tend to increase with alternatives, large river input and future sea level rise in the region. However, the current effect becomes more pronounced during tropical storms.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/YAugdJe9dIw