bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
DAMAGE FUNCTIONS FCR A RUBBLE-MOUND BREAKWATER UNDER THE EFFECT OF SWELLS
Authors: Font Juan B.
Published: February 2019

In this paper experimental data are given to aid in the design of a rubble-mound breakwater The use of armor damage functions is supported rather than the use of the wave height for the no damage condition Damage curves defined experimentally are proposed, for both rocks and tetrapods, for different wave storm durations and for different placing tech niques A determinant influence of storm duration is found for advanced damage of the armor layers The experiments with different placing techniques showed that stability coefficients based upon the no damage criteria, do not give a reliable picture of the ultimace strength of a rubble-mound breakwater.
HYDRAULIC RESISTANCE OP ARTIFICIAL CONCRETE BLOCKS
Authors: Shuto Mubuo , Hashimoto Hiroshi
Published: February 2019

Theoretical analysis and experiments are made to clarify the mechanism of reducing the wave energy by the block structures In order to express the hydraulic reistance of three different kinds of blocks, three different models are proposed The hydraulic radius and the porosity of the block structures are essentially important factors m the expression of the hydraulic characteristics of the block structures It is recommended, from experimental results, to carry out the hydraulic experiments by using blocks heavier than at least 500 gr Resistance coefficients obtained m the steady and oscillatory flows show almost no difference.
USE OF ASPHALT IN BREAKWATER CONSTRUCTION
Authors: D'Angremond K. , Span H.J. Th. , Van der Weide J. , Waestenenk A.J.
Published: February 2019

Among the many types of breakwater constructions the so-called "rubblemound" type is widely used For the construction of exposed rubble-mound breakwaters relatively large units are necessary to create a stable structure In many places in the world rock of the required size is not available at reasonable cost, which gave rise to the development of a great variety of armour units Lately also the use of asphalt in breakwater construction has proved feasible The experience gained during the construction of several projects in the Netherlands resulted in a special method of the use of stone-asphalt in breakwater construction Several cross-sections based on this concept were sub|ected to model tests to compare their behaviour under wave-attack with that of conventional crosssections It appeared that the increase in stability can be expressed in terms of an "upgrading factor" Attention was also paid to wave run-up Finally, examples of other applications will be presented which incorporate both practical experience and basic research.
HONOLULU REEF RUNWAY DIKE
Authors: Palmer Robert Q. , Walker James R.
Published: February 2019

Criteria for design of a wave barrier to protect the proposed Honolulu International Airport Reef Runway from breaking waves were developed in wave flume model tests Structures with tribar and quarrystone armor units placed in single and multiple layers, on homogeneous and composite slopes, were subjected to both overtopping and non-overtopping breaking waves Data on wave runup, armor unit stability, quantities of overtopping water, and transmitted wave heights were obtained using a 1 50 bottom slope, which modeled the irregular coral bathymetry seaward of the proposed structure The model to prototype scale ratios ranged from 1 5 to 1 35 Model Tests indicated that the weight of armor units placed below one-third the water depth may be three-fourths that of the units located near the water surface It was noted that the maximum wave runup was 1 8 times the water depth fronting the structure Data were obtained concerning quantities of overtopping water and transmitted wave heights over the low barriers The study augments available criteria for economical design of structures subjected to breaking waves.
CONTRIBUTION OF LARGE RIVER SYSTEM ON WATER LEVEL DUE TO A STORM
Authors: Mohit Abdul Al , Ide Yoshihiko , Kodama Mitsuyoshi , Yamashiro Masaru , Hashimoto Noriaki
Published: February 2019

Bangladesh is a riverine country in South Asia, which contain about 700 big or small rivers. The major Ganges- Brahmaputra-Meghna river system makes the coast of Bangladesh more complex and disaster vulnerable area. This river system may or may not have its impact on the height of the water level due to a storm. This area is a suitable place for research, but there is no such mention of suitable research conducted in this area. Worth mentioning works done by some scholars are Dube et al. (2004), Agnihotri et al. (2006). All the works are important to the Bay-River interaction for the storm surge simulation, but these studies were also limited by the lack of a representation of proper geometry of the river system. Some of them considered idealized river system with constant water depth and some of them did not consider the proper tidal resume. The present study is a step towards the development of an operational surge forecasting nonlinear Bay-River interaction model that incorporates the major river system with realistic geometry. Both the bay and river model equations are discretized by finite difference method with central in space and forward in time and are solved by a conditionally stable, semi-implicit manner on a staggered Arakawa C-grid system. A stable tidal condition was made by forcing the sea level with the most energetic tidal constituent, M2 , along the southern open boundary of the parent model (Bay model). The developed model was applied to foresee sea-surface elevation associated with the catastrophic cyclone 1991 and a recent cyclone MORA 2017 along the coast of Bangladesh. We also investigated how the river influences the sea surface elevation with and without fresh water discharge. We also intend to investigate the effect of river discharge with sediment. It is observed that the water levels are found to be influenced by the river system.
COASTAL STORM SURGE INFLUENCE ON NUISANCE FLOODING IN BROWARD COUNTY, FLORIDA
Authors: Kauppila Ashley , Bender Christopher , Bredesen Hunter
Published: February 2019

The Hollywood Lakes area in Hollywood, Florida, and Las Olas Boulevard area of Fort Lauderdale, Florida experience nuisance flooding, or â€œsunny dayâ€ flooding, during extreme high tides. This flooding causes damage to residential and commercial properties and to critical municipal infrastructure. The influences of rising sea levels, extreme rainfall events, and coastal storm surge compound these flooding events, Hollywood and Fort Lauderdale form part of eastern Broward County, a densely populated area in South Florida bordered on the east by the Atlantic Ocean and on the west by the Everglades. Numerous drainage canals connect the Everglades wetlands and the coastal urban area, with typical elevations of 5-10 ft-NAVD. Porous limestone groundwater substrate further contributes to complex local hydrology.
HYDRODYNAMICS OF EXTENDED DUBAI CREEK SYSTEM
Authors: Karanam Sankarbabu , Juma Ibrahim Mohammad , AlHarmoudi Alya Abdulrahim , Yang Zongyan
Published: February 2019

Dubai Creek is a semi-enclosed waterway approximately 14 km long located in the Emirate of Dubai. At its mouth, the creek has an opening of approximately 200m and then widens to approximately 1200m towards the upper end of the creek. Ras Al Khor Wildlife Sanctuary, a RAMSAR designated conservation site is located at the upper end of the creek. The average depth of the creek ranges approximately 6.5 to 7m below Dubai Municipality Datum (DMD) throughout the waterway. Tidal flushing and mixing are the dominant transport processes in Dubai Creek. Treated sewage effluent (fresh water with nutrient content) from Al Awir sewage treatment plant is discharged into creek forming a source of pollution.
NUMERICAL MODELING OF TSUNAMI GENERATED BY SUBMARINE AND SUBAERIAL LANDSLIDES
Authors: Jimenez Arturo , Mouraenko Oleg , Tsai Cheng-Feng
Published: February 2019

Tsunami triggered by landslides have proven to be greatly destructive to the coast (e.g. 1998 Papua New Guinea) and, in many coastal areas, to be crucial in the design of infrastructure and tsunami hazard mapping. Numerical models are the most widely used tool to study this type of tsunami. Some commercial coastal modeling software have added the ability to incorporate time- and spatial-varying ground elevations to model landslides. However, the evolution of the landslide must still be predefined in a way that is consistent with the physics of landslide motion.
COMPARISON OF NUMERICAL WAVE TANKS WITH VARIOUS TURBULENCE MODELS IN APPLICATION TO LONG WAVE MOTION AND ITS INTERACTION WITH A VERTICAL WALL
Authors: Cinar Gizem Ezgi , Guler Hasan Gokhan , Arikawa Taro , Baykal Cuneyt , Yalciner Ahmet Cevdet
Published: February 2019

In this study, performances of interFoam solver of OpenFOAM and CADMAS-SURF computational tools with several turbulence modelling approaches on the numerical modelling of long wave motion and its interaction with a vertical wall based on the physical model experiments presented by Arikawa (2015) are investigated and compared. IHFOAM is used as wave generation and absorption boundary condition (Higuera et al., 2013). Three-dimensional simulations are carried out solving Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes (RANS) with no-turbulence model and with k-Îµ and k-Ï‰ SST (Shear Stress Transport) turbulence models in addition to Large Eddy Simulations (LES). The aim of this study is to understand the contribution from turbulence modeling and compare the numerical wave tanks in long wave motion and their interaction with a vertical wall. The results are further discussed in scope of required accuracy in such engineering applications focusing on computational time.
A UNIFIED RUNUP FORMULA FOR BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES ON A UNIFORM BEACH
Authors: Wu Yun-Ta , Liu Philip Li-Fan , Liu Philip Li-Fan , Hwang Kao-Shu , Hwang Kao-Shu , Hwung Hwung-Hweng , Hwung Hwung-Hweng
Published: February 2019

For coastal management, it is of great importance to understand long-wave induced runup processes and predict maximum runup heights. Long-wave in nature could take different forms, such as swells, storm surges and tsunamis. One of the fundamental waveforms is solitary wave, which has a permanent form in a constant depth. Thus, the issue of solitary wave propagation, shoaling, breaking and runup has been an active research area in coastal engineering community, using experimental, numerical and analytical approaches. Among existing runup experiments, only limited numbers of experiments were conducted in large-scale wave flume facilities because of the lack of easy access. To enhance the range of surf parameters for breaking solitary waves, new laboratory experiments were carried out in a large-scale wave flume with a 1/100 slope. Several wave conditions in the experiments were on the borderline of plunging and spilling breakers. The main objective of this paper is twofold. The first aim is to present a new dataset for solitary wave runup. The second objective aims to develop a unified empirical formula, based on the available runup data in the literature and the present new data, for the runup of breaking solitary waves on a uniform slope.
NEW TSUNAMI HAZARD ASSESSMENT OF CHAÃ‘ARAL, CHILE, AFTER THE COASTAL MORPHOLOGY CHANGES DUE TO THE 2015 RIVER FLOOD
Authors: ArÃ¡nguiz Rafael , HenrÃ­quez Pedro , Esteban Miguel , Mikami Takahito , Cienfuegos Rodrigo , Quiroz Marco
Published: February 2019

ChaÃ±aral is a town located at the mouth of the Salado River in northern Chile (Lat 26.3 Â°S). The main economic activity in its vicinity is copper mining, such as at Potrerillos and El Salvador. The river mouth is typically closed due to the coastal sediment transport. In addition, a large reclamation area was built from mine tailings and a highway was constructed on an elevated levee in the reclamation area. Furthermore, ChaÃ±aral is under tsunami hazard, with the last tsunami event taking place in 1922. According to historical records, the tsunami reached 10 m (Soloviev & Go, 1975). This event occurred prior to the deposition of mine tailings, which started in 1930. The official tsunami inundation map was made in 2014, and the tsunami scenario considered an extreme event based on the 1922 tsunami plus a high tide (SHOA, 2014). The maximum tsunami runup was estimated to be 17 m. In March 2015, a heavy rain event took place over the Atacama Desert and a catastrophic flood affected ChaÃ±aral, with a maximum water depth of 4.5 m (Wilcox et al., 2016), significantly changing the coast. In fact, the elevated highway was destroyed and there was substantial coastal erosion. The present work assesses the tsunami hazard considering the new coastal morphology, given that coastal erosion would allow a tsunami to easily surge into the river and subsequently the town.
WAVE-INDUCED MEAN CURRENTS IN AQUATIC CANOPIES
Authors: Van Rooijen Arnold , Lowe Ryan , Rijnsdorp Dirk
Published: February 2019

Many shorelines around the world are fronted by canopies formed by aquatic vegetation (e.g. seagrass, kelp or mangroves). To date, much progress has been made in understanding how waves propagating towards the coast are affected by these canopies, with a particular focus on wave attenuation (e.g. Dalrymple et al., 1984). As a result, many numerical models currently include formulations to account for the effect of coastal canopies on wave propagation (e.g. van Rooijen et al., 2016).
SENSITIVITY OF OCCURRENCE FREQUENCY OF STORM TIDE ELEVATION TO RANDOM TIDAL PHASES IN MACRO-TIDAL AREA
Authors: Chen Siyu Aaron , Anderson Mike , Tabar Jeff
Published: February 2019

Storm tides result from meteorological forces (storm) acting over tidal waters. To derive the reoccurrence frequency of storm tide elevation (STE), of particular interest is to reduce the bias due to random tide selection, since the storm occurrence is independent of tidal phase. This aleatory bias can be reduced by modelling each storm at increasing number of random tides, which, however, adds to the computational cost. Therefore, it is useful to investigate the number of random tides required for each storm to reduce the concerns of aleatory bias. This study firstly explored the nonlinear interaction between tide and surge for a single extratropical (ET) storm in a macrotidal study area. In general, the non-linearity is 90 degrees out of phase with tide. Although the nonlinearity is important, especially over tidal flats, it is a second order term to the linear combination of tide and surge. This enables the possibility to evaluate the sensitivity of occurrence frequency of storm tides to the number of random tidal phases through a Monte-Carlo Simulation (MCS), where storm tides with surge occurring at random tidal phases can be derived by linear super-position. It was determined that the variance of 100-year STE can be significantly reduced if 10 or more random tides for each storm are considered. It is also possible to eliminate the bias using the MCS with the nonlinearity accounted for by linear regression relating modeled STEs and that derived from linear superposition. The accuracy of the approach can be estimated by introducing the regression error randomly to the STEs obtained from linear regression during the analysis.
ASSESSMENT OF THE EVOLUTION OF STORM SURGE IN COASTAL LOUISIANA
Authors: Siverd Christopher , Hagen Scott , Bilskie Matthew , Braud DeWitt , Gao Shu , Peele Hampton , Twilley Robert
Published: February 2019

The Louisiana coastal landscape comprises an intricate system of fragmented wetlands, natural ridges, man-made navigation canals, flood protection and oil and gas infrastructure. Louisiana lost approximately 1,883 square miles (4,877 sq km) of coastal wetlands from 1932 to 2010 including 300 square miles (777 sq km) lost between 2004 and 2008 due to Hurricanes Katrina, Rita, Gustav and Ike (Couvillion et al., 2011). A projected additional 2,250 square miles (5,827 sq km) of coastal wetlands will be lost over the next 50 years if no preventative actions are taken (Coastal Protection and Restoration Authority of Louisiana, 2017). Storm surge models representing historical eras of the Louisiana coastal landscape can be developed to investigate the response of hurricane storm surge (e.g. peak water levels, inundation volume and time) to land loss and vegetative changes. Land:Water (L:W) isopleths (Gagliano et al., 1970; Twilley et al., 2016; Siverd et al., 2018) have been calculated along the Louisiana coast from Sabine Lake to the Pearl River. These isopleths were utilized to develop a simplified coastal landscape (bathymetry, topography, bottom roughness) representing circa2010. Similar methods are employed with the objective of developing storm surge models that represent the coastal landscape for past eras (circa1890, c.1930, c.1970).
THE RESPONSE OF HARBOR ENVIRONMENTS PROTECTED BY IRREGULAR FRINGING REEF SYSTEMS TO STRONG GRAVITY WAVE FORCING - A CASE STUDY
Authors: Azouri Assaf , Roeber Volker , Luther Douglas S.
Published: February 2019

Three high-resolution, dispersive nearshore numerical models (BOSZ - Roeber & Cheung, 2012; FUNWAVE - Shi et al., 2012; XBeach - Roelvink et al., 2009) are compared and contrasted with observations from fringing- reef and harbor environments, in an attempt to test their ability to reproduce the wave transformation processes in a complex Hawaiian reef-system environment forced by highly energetic sea/swell wave conditions. Haleâ€™iwa Harbor, located on Oahuâ€™s North Shore (Figure 1), is a small boat harbor that faces serious operational problems resulting from water level fluctuations and currents during periods of strong swells. These oscillations are predominantly at infragravity periods (rather than swell periods), and, nearly every winter season, their amplitude levels are sufficiently large to trigger significant surges in the harbor. These surges can cause damage to harbor infrastructure and boats, and threaten the safety of mariners who attempt to enter or exit the harbor.
TIME-VARYING WAVE EFFECTS ON FLOWS AND DYNAMICS AT AN UNSTRATIFIED INLET
Authors: Wargula Anna , Raubenheimer Britt , Elgar Steve , Chen Jia-Lin , Shi Fengyan
Published: February 2019

Surface gravity waves alter discharge and circulation near and within coastal inlets, affecting the exchange and transport of water masses, nutrients, sediments, and pollutants between inland waters and the ocean. Field observations and numerical simulations suggest that, during storms, wave forcing (radiation-stress gradients) owing to wave dissipation across the ebb shoal can enhance fluxes into the inlet (Bertin et al. 2009; Wargula et al. 2014). As a result, water levels may increase inside the bay (Olabarrieta et al. 2011; Dodet et al. 2013), creating an offshore-directed pressure gradient that may balance onshore fluxes during energetic waves, and may enhance offshore fluxes after the waves decrease. Spatial and tidal variability in water depths on the ebb shoal lead to complex wave breaking patterns that drive spatially and tidally asymmetric flows. Here, field observations and numerical simulations are used to evaluate the effects of waves on discharge and circulation, and the relative importance of wave radiation-stress and pressure gradients at an unstratified inlet during and following energetic waves.
ACCURATE PREDICTION OF TSUNAMI FORCE FOR EFFECTIVE DESIGN OF BREAKWATER
Authors: Tsuruta Naoki , Suzuki Kojiro
Published: February 2019

In 2011, the off the Pacific coast of Tohoku earthquake with subsequent huge tsunami caused serious damages to many breakwaters. The damage process mainly comprises their slide or toppling over by the overflowing tsunami, whose typical cases can be seen in Soma and Kamaishi ports. In order to save the people as long as possible, it is necessary to design breakwaters effectively with keeping their resilience particularly against such an overflow of a huge tsunami. As the first step to the goal, the pressure force of the overflowing tsunamis should be predicted accurately, however, its feature remains unknown due to its complicated mechanisms. Regarding the Japan guideline of breakwater against tsunami, it introduces an estimation formula based on the static pressure with compensating coefficients Î±f and Î±r for the foreside and backside of the target breakwater, respectively, as shown in Figure 1. The compensating coefficients are set with semi-empirical values as Î±r=1.1 and Î±r=0.9. However, in recent years, it was found that the coefficient Î±r randomly varies depending on the hydraulic conditions (Arikawa et al., 2013), and to make matters worse, the variation appears more significant by changing the structure of the target breakwater, i.e. the condition of the mound under the caisson and the parapets above the caisson (Miyata et al., 2014). Therefore, improvement of the estimation method should be required as an urgent subject. In order to resolve this problem, this study performs hydraulic experiments targeting breakwaters under tsunami-overflows with focusing on the effect of the property of the mound, which has insufficient studies. From the results, an effective estimation method for the compensating coefficient Î±r is newly proposed by reconsidering the coefficient as a dynamic parameter covering the various boundary conditions.
TSUNAMI-INDUCED HYDRODYNAMICS AND SCOUR AROUND STRUCTURES
Authors: Jayaratne Ravindra , Nicholas Mara , Ghodoosipour Behnaz , Mugnaini Sophie , Nistor Ioan , Shibayama Tomoya
Published: February 2019

The complex hydrodynamics during a tsunami event can significantly affect the structural integrity of buildings. The resulting hydrodynamic forces are influenced by various fluid parameters such as the fluid density, flow velocity and depth, as well as by the structureâ€™s geometry. Hydrodynamic forces induced by tsunami pressures and velocities are particularly important, as they occur usually around a coastal defence structure or a building and as a result, they affect the structural integrity of the structure (Chinnarasri et al, 2013). The 2011 Japan post-tsunami field survey of Chock et al. (2013) indicated that lateral pressures, uplift pressures and surge flow from the tsunami produced hydrodynamic forces responsible for the destruction of many structures along the Tohoku coastline. The associated hydrodynamic parameters of a tsunami such as pressures and velocities also influence the tsunami-induced scour around buildings. Nicholas et al. (2016) stated that the tsunami-induced hydrodynamic velocity was a crucial factor in producing soil-scour around building structures.
CHARACTERIZATION OF SPATIAL VARIATION IN HURRICANE SURGE
Authors: Irish Jennifer L. , Resio Donald T. , Asher Taylor G. , Liu Yi
Published: February 2019

Planning, engineering, and development along surgeprone coasts rely on probabilistic surge hazard assessments. Over the last decade, U.S. agencies have implemented the joint probability method with optimal sampling (JPM-OS) (e.g., Resio et al. 2009) to overcome shortcomings in probabilistic estimates developed from the limited set of observed surges alone. Here, optimal sampling is used to reduce the number of high-fidelity surge simulations needed, given computational resource limitations. In current practice, hazard assessments with the JPM-OS use discrete storm simulations (order of 200 to 1000 storms), where each is assigned a probability mass (e.g., Toro et al. 2010), rather than defining surges for the continuum of probability densities. Such an approach introduces uncertainty because it does not fully capture the natural structure inherent in surge response (meteorological and larger-scale bathymetric effects) (Resio et al. 2017). On the other hand, physically based surge response functions (SRFs) that capture natural structure in the surge response provide an accurateâ€”0.2 to 0.5 m rootmean- square error depending on topographic and geographic complexityâ€”and efficient means for continuously defining probability densities (e.g., Taylor et al. 2015). But, application of SRFs in JPM-OS (JPMOS- SRF) has not been widely used in practice due a lack of systematic methods for spatial interpolation along complex shorelines and throughout the floodplain. Herein, we explore the use of spatially derived empirical orthogonal functions (EOFs) to overcome this spatial interpolation challenge.
THE DYNAMICS OF STORM SURGE AND MEAN SEA LEVEL VARIABILITY IN THE NORTHEASTERN CASPIAN SEA
Authors: Yang Xiufeng , Kerper Dale , Misra Shubhra , Stear James , Shen Tao , LisÃ¦ter Knut
Published: February 2019

Storm surge is a major natural hazard to the construction and operation of infrastructure projects in shallow and gently sloping coastal areas such as the northeastern part of the Caspian Sea. Up-surge events cause significant coastal flooding, while down-surge events disrupt marine transportation by constraining safe navigable water depths. Coastal developments therefore have to achieve a judicious balance of these conflicting constraints. Further, the unpredictability of long-term and intra-annual Mean Sea Level (MSL) variability as well as periodic freeze-up and break-up due to ice formation in this part of the Caspian Sea complicate a robust and unequivocal basis for defining storm surge hazards.
INCORPORATING THREE-DIMENSIONAL BAROCLINIC PROCESSES FOR ACCURATE DEPTH-INTEGRATED COASTAL CIRCULATION MODELLING
Authors: Pringle William , Westerink Joannes
Published: February 2019

Depth-integrated coastal circulation models have proven to provide high-fidelity solutions to storm surge, tides, tsunamis, and those with wave-coupling (Westerink et al. 2008; Titov & Synolakis 1998). They are able to provide high horizontal resolution, and stable, high-order and low-diffusion numerical schemes making them often more useful than their three-dimensional counterparts despite more assumptions on the physics. However, the assumptions of no baroclinicity means that some processes such as steric effects, barotropic energy to baroclinic tidal energy conversion, and major baroclinic current systems cannot be directly modelled, creating limitations. This is directly problematic for example in storm surge forecasting systems where an offset between measured and predicted hydrographs may be present due to seasonal heating and cooling, changes to nearshore stratification and to the transport rates of major current systems and fresh water outflows.

This study presents a process coupling paradigm to incorporate three-dimensional baroclinic effects into a depth-integrated model from a widely used and available baroclinic model, HYCOM (http://hycom.org). The depth-integrated finite-element model, ADCIRC (Westerink et al. 1992) is able to provide high-resolution to the coastal area, and has proven to be extremely accurate for storm surge modelling in e.g. the Gulf of Mexico (Westerink et al. 2008). However, along the Gulf of Mexico and east-coast of USA there are noticeable seasonal and inter-annual trends in the coastal sea level making forecasting more challenging than hindcasting. We present the effects of applying the information provided by HYCOM to ADCIRC in order to improve predicted hydrographs throughout the year of 2012 and in particular during Hurricane Sandy.
NUMERICAL MODELLING OF TSUNAMI INUNUNDATION CONSIDERING THE PRESENCE OF OFFSHORE ISLANDS AND BARRIER REEFS
Authors: ColÃ³n-De La Cruz Héctor , Rivera-Casillas Peter , Keen Adam , Lynett Patrick J.
Published: February 2019

Advances in computer programming have permitted researchers to predict and visualize how tsunami waves affect coastline areas. Although itâ€™s possible to use numerical model simulations to predict the inundation of tsunamis, the process has some limitations. In order to solve the Boussinesq-type equations for tsunami propagation in the near-shore, it typically requires hundreds of hours of computation time and/or multiple CPUs. (Tavakkol and Lynett, 2017).

Recently the University of Southern California developed a numerical model called Celeris, which can solve the Boussinesq-type equations faster than real time. The numerical model can run with minimum preparations on an average-user laptop and is able to provide results of wave inundation in a matter of seconds (Tavakkol and Lynett, 2017).

The purpose of this research is to validate the results of wave inundation provided by Celeris and to study how reefs affect the inundation in the shoreline. If Celeris is validated, it could be used to study how to reduce the impact of tsunamis in the coast, explore the possibilities of using reefs to dissipate the energy of waves, improve evacuation routes, etc.
A TWO-LAYER NON-HYDROSTATIC LANDSLIDE MODEL FOR TSUNAMI GENERATION ON IRREGULAR BATHYMETRY
Authors: Zhang Cheng , Kirby James T. , Grilli Stéphan T. , Shi Fengyan , Ma Gangfeng
Published: February 2019

In this study, a two-layer landslide model is presented for investigating submarine landslides and generated waves that propagate over irregular bathymetry. The landslide is described as either a mudflow or a fully saturated granular flow, which are distinguished by using different rheological closure based on physical principles. Depth-averaged governing equations for the landslide are derived in a regular Cartesian coordinate system, and take into account the effect of vertical acceleration and interface traction from the upper-layer water. In addition, sediment erosion from basal boundary and water entrainment are also considered. Tsunami waves generated by the landslide are simulated by the three-dimensional non-hydrostatic wave model NHWAVE (Ma et al., 2012). The governing equations for both the lower-layer slide and the upper-layer water body are solved using a Godunov-type finite volume TVD scheme in space and a Strong Stability-Preserving (SSP) Runge- Kutta scheme in time.
DEVELOPMENT OF TSUNAMI INUNDATION EVALUATION METHOD CONSIDERING DAMAGE LEVEL OF SEAWALL
Authors: Seki Katsumi , Arikawa Taro , Shimosako Kenichiro , Takagawa Tomohiro , Chida Yu
Published: February 2019

Against the huge tsunami with the subduction-zone earthquake, structures such as breakwater and seawall are constructed. The expected effects of these structures are to reduce the inundation depth and inundation area. In other words, if we estimate tsunami inundation using numerical simulation accurately, it is necessary to reflect the situation of these structures in the numerical models. However in the present technology, it is difficult to predict while to estimate and reflect the destruction process by earthquake and tsunami attack. In this study, we assume that the damage level of structures are uncertain phenomenon and we develop that evaluated the tsunami inundation stochastically using Monte Carlo method.
NON-HYDROSTATIC MODELLING OF KELVIN-HELMHOLTZ BILLOWS ALONG THE NORTH PASSAGE OF YANGTZE RIVER ESTUARY, CHINA
Authors: Shi Jian , Zheng Jinhai , Tong Chaofeng
Published: February 2019

Induced by velocity shear, Kelvin-Helmholtz (KH) instability arises along an interface of two different fluids. In stratified flows, the KH instability is the first step toward to the onset of intensive mixing in the pycnocline, and it has been thought to be the main mechanism of converting stratified fluids to mixing (Geyer et al., 2010). The direct observation of KH instability in ocean is rare, and a few observations in estuarine and coastal areas are obtained by analyzing the acoustic backscatter profiles from echo sounder. However, the backscatter can only provide qualitative images of the KH billows, which cannot well represent the evolution and influence of KH billows on surrounding density field. Well treatment of vertical variability of velocity and density, non-hydrostatic model is a new and useful tool for the study of K-H instability. In this study, we established a non-hydrostatic model along the North Passage of Yangtze River Estuary to explore the occurrence of KH instability in the domain.
FOREWORD: Proceedings of the 36th International Conference
Authors: Lynett Patrick J.
Published: February 2019

This Proceedings contains 550 papers from the 36th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, which was held in Baltimore, Maryland from July 30 to August 3, 2018. The Proceedings is divided into six parts: Papers; Waves; Swash, Nearshore Currents, and Long Waves; Sediment Transport and Morphology; Coastal Structures; and Coastal Management, Environment, and Risk. The â€œPapersâ€ sections includes full length Proceedings papers, covering a broad range of topics including theory, numerical and physical modeling, field measurements, case studies, design, and management. The other sections include abstract and presentation files, as presented at the conference. These submissions provide engineers, scientists, and planners state-of-the-art information on coastal engineering and coastal processes.
PROBABILISTIC SHORELINE CHANGE MODELING AND RISK ESTIMATION OF EROSION
Authors: Ding Yan , Frey Ashley E. , Kim Sung-Chan , Permenter Rusty E.
Published: February 2019

Prediction of long-term shoreline changes is a key task in planning and management of coastal zones and regional sediment management. Due to complex natural features of offshore waves, sediments, and longshore sediment transport, quantifying uncertainties of shoreline evolution and risks of extreme shoreline changes (erosion and accretion) is of vital importance for practicing uncertainty- or risk-based design of shorelines. This paper presents probabilistic shoreline change modeling to quantify uncertainties of shoreline variations by using numerical-model-based Monte-Carlo simulations. A shoreline evolution model, GenCade, is used to simulate longshore sediment transport and shoreline changes induced by random waves from offshore. A probability density function with a modified tail distribution is developed to capture stochastic features of wave heights under fair weather and storm conditions. It produces a time series of wave heights including small and extreme waves based on their probabilities (or frequencies of appearance). Probabilistic modeling of shoreline change is demonstrated by computing spatiotemporal variations of statistical parameters such as mean and variance of shoreline changes along an idealized coast bounded by two groins. Maximum shoreline changes in return years with a confidence range are also estimated by using maximum likelihood method. Reasonable results of obtained probabilistic shoreline changes reveal that this model-based Monte-Carlo simulation and uncertainty estimation approach are applicable to facilitate risk/uncertainty-based design and planning of shorelines.
NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF INTERACTIONS BETWEEN WATER WAVES AND A MOORED-FLOATING BREAKWATER
Authors: Martin Tobias , Kamath Arun , Bihs Hans
Published: February 2019

Floating breakwaters offer a cost-efficient alternative to common emerged rubble mound breakwaters in deep water coastal areas or harbors with poor seabed conditions. Often, simple box type structures with a suitable mooring system are considered. The motion of the moored box and the resulting tension forces in the cables have to be known during the design process. The accurate determination of these properties is therefore of high significance to produce a safe and economical design. In this paper, a numerical model for determining the influence of the mooring system on the floating body dynamics is developed and incorporated into the opensource CFD solver REEF3D.
APPLICATION OF SMOOTHED PARTICLE HYDRODYNAMICS IN EVALUATING THE PERFORMANCE OF COASTAL RETROFIT STRUCTURES
Authors: Abolfathi Soroush , Shudi Dong , Borzooei Sina , Yeganeh-Bakhtiari Abbas , Pearson Jonathan
Published: February 2019

This study develops an accurate numerical tool for investigating optimal retrofit configurations in order to minimize wave overtopping from a vertical seawall due to extreme climatic events and under changing climate. A weakly compressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics (WCSPH) model is developed to simulate the wave-structure interactions for coastal retrofit structures in front of a vertical seawall. A range of possible physical configurations of coastal retrofits including re-curve wall and submerged breakwater are modelled with the numerical model to understand their performance under different wave and structural conditions. The numerical model is successfully validated against laboratory data collected in 2D wave flume at Warwick Water Laboratory. The findings of numerical modelling are in good agreement with the laboratory data. The results indicate that recurve wall is more effective in mitigating wave overtopping and provides more resilience to coastal flooding in comparison to base-case (plain vertical wall) and submerged breakwater retrofit.
ACTIVE ABSORPTION OF NONLINEAR IRREGULAR WAVES
Authors: Andersen Thomas Lykke , Clavero Maria , Eldrup Mads RÃ¸ge , Frigaard Peter , Losada Miguel
Published: February 2019

In the present paper, the performance of active absorption systems based on nearfield surface elevation measurements is studied. Based on linear wavemaker theory the performance of such systems can easily be calculated for linear waves. A recent study demonstrated that bound superharmonics in regular waves is also well absorbed by such system and has a re-reflection similar to a linear component. However, the performance of active absorption systems on nonlinear irregular waves has never been studied. In the present paper the absorption of bound sub and superharmonics in bichromatic and irregular waves is examined based on new model tests. The conclusion is that also in irregular waves the bound harmonics are well absorbed by the studied active absorption system.
LARGE SCALE TESTS ON FORESHORE EVOLUTION DURING STORM SEQUENCES AND THE PERFORMANCE OF A NEARLY VERTICAL STRUCTURE
Authors: Briganti Riccardo , Musumeci Rosaria Ester , Van der Meer Jentsje , Romano Alessandro , Stancanelli Laura Maria , Kudella Matthias , Akbar Rizki , Mukhdiar Ryard , Altomare Corrado , Suzuki Tomohiro , De Girolamo Paolo , Mancini Giulia , Besio Giovanni , Dodd Nicholas , Schimmels Stefan
Published: February 2019

This work presents the results of an experimental investigation on the effects of a sequence of storms on wave overtopping at a nearly vertical battered seawall at the back of a sandy foreshore. The experiments were carried out in the Large Wave Flume (GWK) at Leibniz UniversitÃ¤t Hannover (Germany), as part of the research project ICODEP (Impact of Changing fOreshore on flood DEfence Performance), within the European Union programme Hydralab+. The layout consisted of a 10/1 battered seawall and a natural sandy foreshore with an initial 1:15 slope. The beach sand had a nominal diameter of 0.30 mm. Three storm sequences were simulated, where each consisted of three individual storms. Each storm was divided into six steps in which the wave conditions and still water level were varied to represent the peak of an actual storm. The six sea states were based on a JONSWAP spectral shape, with wave heights roughly between 0.6 m and 0.8 m. Two still water levels were tested. For the central two steps the level was such that the freeboard was only 0.14 m and almost all waves were overtopping. In the remaining steps low still water levels were employed, leaving a narrow swash zone. Two storm profiles were considered, the first one with a lower level of energy and the second one with a higher one. These were combined in the three different sequences. All the tested wave conditions were designed to be erosive for the beach, with no recovery in between. Each sequence started from a plain beach configuration and the beach was not restored in between storms. The measurements included waves, pressure and forces, sediment concentrations and flow velocity together with overtopping. The profile of the beach was measured after each sea state tested.
EFFECTS OF STORM SURGE ON WATER LEVELS OF THE LAGOON SYSTEM OF JACAREPAGUÃ â€“ RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL
Authors: Buckmann Monica F.Y. , Aguilera Laura , Rosman Paulo Cesar C.
Published: February 2019

The Lagoon System of JacarepaguÃ¡ is the most vulnerable coastal area of Brazil due to its high population density and important economic activities. Severe meteorological conditions due to climate changes are more likely to affect the lagoon system in the future, increasing the exposure of the area and the probability of flooding of the low-lying surrounding areas. To determine the vulnerability of the area to diverse agents, this work addressed the impact of different combinations of sea level rise, heavy rainfall and storm surges. The study cases considered two different bathymetry conditions, the actual silting bathymetry, and the resulting bathymetry after a planned dredging project. Tidal prism, the maximum water elevations and the time of occurrence were analyzed. The main results showed that storm surge has the most impact on the maximum water elevations, overcoming the impact of an increase in the sea level, river flow and changes in bathymetry. The results of time lags comparing the time of occurrence of maximum elevation recorded at the open sea and the time of occurrence of maximum elevation on the north margin, the most populated area, of the lagoon system showed a time lag of 13-17h. The benefits of the planned dredging project would be mostly to allow a better water renovation in the lagoons, due to a higher tidal prism.
EFFECT OF OVERFLOW NAPPE NON-AERATION ON TSUNAMI BREAKWATER FAILURE
Authors: Patil Akshay , Mudiyanselage Sanduni Disanayaka , Bricker Jeremy D. , Uijttewaal Wim , Keetels Geert
Published: February 2019

Sliding force and punching pressure were contributing factors to widespread breakwater damage caused during the 2011 Great East Japan Tsunami (Takagi and Bricker, 2015), and were dominant factors causing displacement of caissons from the worldâ€™s deepest breakwater: the Kamaishi bay-mouth composite tsunami breakwater (Arikawa et al., 2012; Bricker et al., 2013). The current study focuses on understanding the physics necessary to correctly model the problem of breakwater over-topping by tsunami. To effectively model the physical behavior of the system, scaled model studies were carried out by Mudiyanselage (2017). The earlier numerical investigations carried out by Bricker et al. (2013) and Mudiyanselage (2017), did not prove conclusive to numerically model tsunami breakwater overflow using OpenFOAM employing a 2-D modeling approach. This was shown to be a major hurdle in prediction of the sliding force on the caisson due to the inability of modeling the non-aerated overflow jet over the caisson. Validation of the numerical model would allow parametric study of the flow physics for varying overflow conditions. As a result, a threefold approach of experimental model, analytical model, and numerical model studies was proposed. To achieve sufficient reliability and have complete flexibility, OpenFOAM was chosen for the numerical setup. This numerical model was used to validate the experiments carried out by Mudiyanselage (2017). The numerical model validates and reproduces the flow physics very well. Overall, the numerical results indicate that non-aeration could provide about 8-19% additional force. It was observed that the force on the caisson has a periodic fluctuating behavior. Additionally, the aeration mechanism and overflow jet breakup during the flow was also investigated. It was observed that the highly 3-dimensional behavior of the overflow jet results in the aeration of the cavity underneath the jet. This also explains why the previous studies Bricker et al. (2013) and Mudiyanselage (2017) failed to correctly model the overflow jet using a 2-D modeling approach.
SURF ZONE WAVE HEATING BY ENERGY DISSIPATION OF BREAKING WAVES
Authors: Wei Zhangping , Dalrymple Robert A.
Published: February 2019

This study investigates surf zone wave heating due to the dissipation of breaking wave energy by using the Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics method. We evaluate the surf zone wave heating by examining the increase of internal energy of the system, which is computed based on the conservation of energy. The equivalent temperature profile is calculated based on a simple conversion relationship between energy and temperature. We first examine the surf zone wave heating based on long-crested wave breaking over a planar beach, and we consider spilling breaker and weakly plunging breaker. Numerical results show that breaking of water waves in the surf zone increases the internal energy of water body. Furthermore, the dissipation of incident wave energy is fully converted into the internal energy in a thermally isolated system, confirming the energy conservation of the present numerical approach. It is further found that the long-crested wave breaking generates undertow, which transports the generated wave heating from the surf zone to deep waters. We further carry out numerical experiments to examine surf zone wave heating due to short-crested wave breaking over a beach. The internal energy generation mainly follows the isolated wave breakers, and there is a 3D pattern of wave heating due to the complicated wave breaking process and current system. In general, the magnitude of the generated internal energy or temperature by dissipation of breaking wave energy in the surf zone is relatively small. The present study shows that the generated water temperature is in the order of 10^-3 Kelvin for wave breaking over a typical coastal beach.
ROCK ARMOR DAMAGE IN DEPTH-LIMITED BREAKING WAVE CONDITIONS
Authors: Medina Josep R. , Herrera MarÃ­a P. , GÃ³mez-MartÃ­n M. Esther
Published: February 2019

The armor layer of a mound breakwaters is usually designed with a formula derived from physical tests in non-breaking wave conditions; however, most rubble mound breakwaters are placed in the wave breaking zone where the highest waves break before reaching the structure. The hydraulic stability formulas developed for rock-armored breakwaters in non-breaking conditions are not completely valid to characterize the hydraulic stability of these structures under depth-limited wave attack. In this study, five series of 2D physical tests were carried out on a bottom slope m=1/50 to analyze the hydraulic stability of double-layer rock armored breakwaters in depth-limited breaking wave conditions. Measurements taken by 12 wave gauges placed along the wave flume were compared with estimations of Hm0, H2% and H1/10 obtained from numerical model SwanOne. The significant wave height, Hm0, estimated or measured at a distance 3hs from the toe of the structure was the best characteristic wave to relate armor damage with stability number. The six-power relationship between dimensionless armor damage and stability number, found in this study, explained more than 94% of the variance in the damage observations. This relationship is valid for conventional non-overtopping double-layer rock-armored breakwaters on bottom slope m=1/50 and depth-limited breaking wave conditions.
RESULTS OF A 3-YEAR BEACH EROSION CONTROL PROJECT IN HILLSBORO BEACH, FLORIDA, UTILIZING PRESSURE EQUALIZING MODULES (PEM)
Authors: Christensen Kenneth W. , Gable Frank J.
Published: February 2019

The patented PEM system is a passive beach dewatering technology consisting of hollow permeable tubes installed vertically into the beach in a grid pattern. The system requires no pumps or energy to operate. At Hillsboro Beach, Florida the system was installed for a 3-year period at a highly eroding part of the beach where the shoreline historically had lost 25.2 ft. (-7.7 m) in 3 years. By the end of the 3-year period the shoreline in the 1-mile PEM project area had advanced 26.9 ft. (8.2 m), erosion had stopped, and the PEM area had accreted from R-monument line to MHW, to -5ft NAVD, and to DOC without the control areas to the North and South being negatively affected.