bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Transition Temperatures of Acrilan in Relation to Dyeing Properties
Authors: ASQUITH R. S. , BLAIR H. S. , SPENCE N.
Published: July 2010

The transition temperatures of Acrilan film have been determined by observing the viscoelastic behaviour in air and solutions. Two transition temperatures are observed in water, the higher being at 84°C. This is of importance in the dyeing of Acrilan fibres, and correlates more closely with dyeing properties than does the Tg observed at 56°C. Relationships between the transition temperatures and dyeing behaviour in the presence and absence of a dyeing assistant are discussed.
The Dyeing Properties on Polyester Fibre Blends of Monoazo Reactive Disperse Dyes Containing a Vinylsulphonyl Group
Authors: NISHIDA K. , ISHII T. , MORIMOTO T. , HOTSUTA T. , IWAMOTO H. , TODA H.
Published: July 2010

The preparation of monoazo reactive disperse dyes containing a vinylsuphonyl group as the coupling component is described, as well as the dyeing properties of these dyes on polyester‐cotton and polyester‐wool blends. The suitability of the dyes for heat‐transfer printing has been examined.
The Efficient use of Resources in Textile Coloration
Authors: Fourness Robert K.
Published: July 2010

The first paper concerned with research and development given during the Society's 1977 Biennial Symposium The Efficient Use of Resources in Textile Coloration ‐ held at Lancaster University. The Chairman for the session was Mr B.A. Townsend (Courtaulds Ltd).
An Ion‐exchange Method to Determine the Uptake of Colourless Cations by Acrylic Fibres
Authors: BIEDERMANN W. , ISCHI A.
Published: July 2010

An analytical procedure based on an ion exchange reaction is proposed for studying the uptake of colourless cations (retarders) by acrylic fibres. Sodium ions in the fibre pass into the dyebath as a result of an exchange reaction and are determined by atomic absorption analysis. The method can be used even in the presence of dyes.
Dyeing Properties of Reactive Cationic Dyes Containing a Vinyl‐sulphonvl Group on Acrylic Fibre Blends
Authors: NISHIDA K. , TAMURA T. , TAKAYAMA K. , ANDO Y. , MORIMOTO T. , IWAMOTO H. , TODA H.
Published: July 2010

The preparation of reactive azo cationic dyes containing a vinylsulphonyl group derived from 2‐aminobenzothiazole and its derivatives is described. Their dyeing properties on blends of acrylic–cellulosic, polyester–cellulosic fibre and on cotton and synthetic fibres are investigated. The relationship between absorption spectra and pH of dye solution is assessed.
A New Method of Determining the Solubility of Disperse Dyes
Authors: PRIKRYL J. , RUZICKA J. , BURGERT L.
Published: July 2010

The polymer cell method (MPC) ‐ a new method to determine solubility o f disperse dyes, applicable between 80° and 140°C is described. This method is compared to the pressure filtration method. The results obtained using the two methods were found to be in good agreement. The application of the MPC method for determining solubility was investigated in the presence of levelling agents (Palegal A, B, HT, Sandogen PES, Invalon HTB) and was used to study the dyeing equilibria of a two‐step mechanism of disperse dyeing, i.e. dissolution of the dye dispersion and sorption of it by the substrate.
Economic and Technical Factors Influencing the Selection of Bleaching Processes for Cellulosic Textiles
Authors: DICKINSON K.
Published: July 2010

The economies of bleaching processes relate to the costs of chemicals, labour, plant and utilities. Their interaction with technical factors is demonstrated in three examples, one of which introduces oxidative desizing. Recent work, carried out by Interox, relating to this process is summarized.
Microwave versus Conductive Heating Their Effect on the Solvent–assisted Dyeing of Polyester Fibre with Anthraquinonoid Disperse Dyes
Authors: BERNS ROY S. , NEEDLES HOWARD L.
Published: July 2010

The rates of dyeing of polyester fibre with amino– and hydroxy–substituted anthraquinones in aqueous N, N–dimethylformamide (DMF) using microwave and conductive heating have been compared. Structural changes, commonly associated with interactions between DMF and polyester fibre, were limited and minimal shrinkage occurred due to the low DMF to water ratio and short dyeing times. Tensile properties reflected this minimal shrinkage through increased elongation at break, and differential scanning calorimetry also indicated that structural changes were minimal. Microwave radiation increased dye diffusion, shrinkage, and elongation at break compared to conductive heating. It is believed that molecular oscillation within the microwave–irradiated dyebath increases the rate of migration of dye to the fibre interface and enhances the plasticization of the polymer by DMF, thereby increasing the rate of dye diffusion within the fibre. Localization of energy associated with the use of microwave radiation is believed to be the predominant cause of increase in the rate of dyeing.
The Extraction and Classification of Dyes on Single Nylon, Polyacrylonitrile and Polyester Fibres
Authors: BEATTIE I.B. , DUDLEY R. J. , SMALLDON K. W.
Published: July 2010

A simple sequential scheme is developed for the efficient removal and classification of dyes from 1–cm to 2–cm lengths of nylon, polyacrylonitrile and polyester fibres.
The Photofading of 1 –Arylazo–2–naphthols in Solution.
Authors: Kuramoto Nobuhiro , Kitao† Teijiro
Published: July 2010

1–(Substituted phenylazo)–2–naphthols with a nitro group positioned para– or ortho– to the azo group, show anomalous photofading behaviour in methanol, i. e., their fastness to light is very much lower than that of similar compounds.

On the other hand, although 1 –(o–nitrophenylazo)–2–naphthol (II) in alcoholic solvents faded to give similar products via photooxidative and/or photoreductive reactions, little photoreduction of the nitro group was detected, and the rate of photofading of II was lower than that of la.

The contribution of intramolecular interaction, such as intramolecular bifurcated hydrogen bonding, involving the o–nitro group, azo group and o–hydroxy group of 1–(o–nitrophenylazo)–2–naphthol, are also discussed.

Photochemical reaction of 1–(p–nitrophenylazo)–2–naphthol (la) in methanol, ethanol or 2–propanol produces not only oxidative but also reductive products, while photochemical reaction of la in acetone gives only oxidative products. From these results and earlier observations, it is suggested that the anomalous photofading of la is a substrate–specific phenomenon, and may be caused by photo–reduction of the nitro and azo groups to amino groups by the substrate, instead of the normal photo–oxidation of the hydrazone tautomer by singlet oxygen.
The Monitoring of Dyebath Composition by Transmission Measurements
Authors: Derbyshire A. N. , Nickson R. A.
Published: July 2010

A preliminary investigation has been made of the concept of using transmission of solutions of diluted dyebaths as a means of monitoring the baths prior to use in bulk–dyeing processes. So far this has been done only by calculation, using the methods of computer match prediction, to establish a correlation between the colour of the diluted pad–Liquor in the application of Dispersol T and Procion T dyes to a polyester–cotton blend fabric by a pad–bake process, and the expected colour of a dyeing made from it. The correlation obtained suggests that the method justifies further development work, in circumstances specific to its intended use, as a means of checking that a prepared dyebath is suitable to produce a dyeing which is within specified tolerance limits.
Rinsing of Textiles
Authors: Gralen Nils
Published: July 2010

The rinsing of textiles after wet treatments is treated as a transport phenomenon. Diffusion and flow cause levelling between internal and external solutions. A levelling factor is introduced and its relation to diffusion shown. Counter–current rinsing is treated theoretically. Experimental results are used to demonstrate the influence of flow. The practical use of rinsing theory in various respects is discussed, and its economic value indicated.
William J. Marshall
Authors: Derbyshire Alan N.
Published: July 2010

A surface in Colour Space representing equal depth at all points (a Control Depth) is defined by a constant value of Integ – an integration of a weighted function of the measured reflectance values of a dyeing throughout the range of visible wavelengths. The amount of a dye that must be applied to a particular substrate by a specified dyeing method to give this Integ value may be determined by experiment, and is called the Control Strength of the dye. Extensive checks made by matching colours with various ternary combinations of dyes have shown that Control Strengths give a reliable indication of the relative strengths of different dyes, even when these differ very widely in colour.

The position of dyeings at a Control Depth in ANLAB 40 Colour Space may be projected on to the A, B plane to produce the ICI Colour Map. This indicates quantitatively the relative hue and brightness of the dyeings, and displays the total gamut of shades attainable by combinations of dyes at the Control Depth.

By combining this information from the Colour Map with Control Strength and selling price data, a very complete and quantitative description is obtained of the coloristic value of different dyes. This is a powerful tool in the selection of dyes for particular purposes.
The Development of Polymer Exhaust Aqueous Batch Processes to Meet the Superwash Standard
Authors: Cockett Keith R. F. , Kettlewell R. , Lewis David M. , Smith Peter
Published: July 2010

The present aqueous batch processes for the production of Superwash wool are briefly described. These pretreatment/ resin processes suffer from defects such as a harmful effect on fabric properties, a noticeable colour change on treatment and unacceptable cross–staining of multi–coloured materials.

The development of aqueous processes in which the polymer is exhausted on to the wool is described in terms of the chemistry of the polymer used and its mode of application, generally by exhaustion from long liquors. The effect on fibre properties is described with particular reference to coloration aspects.

Practical considerations that have arisen during bulk trials are covered, together with costings, where relevant.
Biodegradation of p–Aminoazobenzene by Continuous Cultivation of Pseudomonas pseudomallei 13IMA
Authors: Ogawa Toshihiko , Yatome Chizuko , Idaka Eiichi
Published: July 2010

A continuous cultivation apparatus was constructed in order to improve the existing biological treatments for waste dye–liquor. The cleaning effect by Pseudomonas pseudomallei 13NA, an azo–assimilating bacteria, was examined. Using p–aminoazobenzene as a typical component of waste dye–liquor, it was found that the bacteria effectively removed it by biological degradation. For example, 80% of 10 ppm p–aminoazobenzene was removed by a three–stage continuous treatment.
Mechanism of the Photofading of Stilbene–fluorescent Dyes. Contribution of Singlet Oxygen to the Photofading of 4, 4‘–Bisacetamidostilbene
Authors: Oda Hironori , Kuramoto Nobuhiro , Kitao Teijiro
Published: July 2010

Self—sensitized and Rose Bengal—sensitized photo—oxidation of 4, 4′‐bisacetamidostilbene (BAAS) in solution gives p—acetamidobenzaldehyde and p—acetamidobenzoic acid via the reaction of singlet oxygen with the trans isomer (la). The rate of the photo—oxidation is retarded in the presence of effective singlet oxygen quenchers. On the other hand, cls—BAAS (lb) is more stable to visible light under the conditions of Rose Bengal—sensitized photo—oxidation than trans—stilbene.
The Sodium Formate Process: a Method of Printing a Wide Variety of Polyester Blends
Authors: Weyer Hans J.
Published: July 2010

The sodium formate process represents an advance in the printing of polyester blended fabrics because it enables a wide variety of polyester blends to be printed by one method. The basic principles of the method and its application in direct and discharge–resist printing are outlined.
Dyeing of Wool–Polyester Blends with Reactive Disperse Dyes: Variation of Dye Distribution and Reactivity for Wool
Authors: Stapleton Ian W. , Waters Peter J.
Published: July 2010

The dyeing behaviour of structural analogs of some commercial reactive disperse dyes on a simulated 70:30 wool–polyester blend has been studied. By varying the hydrophi/ic– hydrophobic balance of the dye molecule major changes in the distribution of dye between wool and polyester were observed. The reactivity of the γ–halo–β–hydroxypropyl group was found to be dependent on the halogen atom, while the reactivity of the N–bromoalkylsulphonamide group was found to be dependent on the position of the bromine atom.
Exhaustion of Dyes on Wool at 105C
Authors: Angliss Ian B.
Published: July 2010

Laboratory trials have shown that many wool dyes are almost completely exhausted from the dye liquor after only 5 min at 105C, while the strength loss of the wool is no greater than in conventional dyeing methods. The uniformity of reactive dyeings under these conditions is reported.
Uniform Lightness Scales
Authors: Coates E. , Fong K. Y. , Rigg B.
Published: July 2010

Sets of pairs of coloured paint samples have been prepared, each pair showing a difference in lightness (1–2 1976 CI E LAB units), but a negligible chromaticness difference. One set consisted of neutral samples, with Y values ranging from 0. 1 to 80. Other sets consisted of red, yellow or blue samples, the range of Y values being necessarily restricted for the more saturated sets. The pairs were assessed visually, under llluminants D65 and A by a panel of 24 observers using a ratio method. The agreement between E (and U values from various colour–difference equations and me mean visual results was found to be poor. A simple new lightness scale has been found which gave much improved agreement. The same scale could be applied to the results for both illuminants. Visual judgements of lightness appear to be independent of the chromaticity of the samples. No evidence of a “crispening” effect was found. It is suggested that such an effect decreases as the size of sample increases and that the effect is much smaller than has been claimed.
Carrier Dyeing of Polyester Fibre Part III – The Role of Water in Solvent Dyeing
Authors: Roberts George A. F. , Solanki Raman K.
Published: July 2010

The role of water as an auxiliary in solvent dyeing of polyester fibre has been studied. The addition of water results in a lowering of the glass transition temperature, an increase in the diffusion coefficient and reductions in the energy of activation of diffusion and the entropy of activation of diffusion. The increase in the diffusion coefficient is smaller at higher temperatures and varies from dye to dye, being related to the energy of activation of diffusion. These effects are similar to those reported previously for carriers in the aqueous dyeing of polyester fibre and demonstrate that the role of water in solvent dyeing is similar to that of a carrier in aqueous dyeing.
Bulk–scale Dyeing of Acrylic Yarn Packages
Authors: Park J. , Shore J.
Published: July 2010

Bulk–scale dyeing trials on three different types of acrylic fibre are described. Basic dyes were applied under conditions predicted to give a borderline degree of unlevelness, following earlier laboratory work [1–3] intended to determine the relative importance of different factors which control level dyeing in this system. The results of the dyeing trials are discussed in this context and an attempt is made to attribute the effects observed to specific causes of unlevel uptake of dye.
Blue Thread of the Tzitzit: Was the Ancient Dye a Prussian Blue or Tyrian Purple?
Authors: Ziderman Irving I.
Published: July 2010

The Radzin process for renewing the use of the Biblical blue thread on the Jewish ritual fringed garment (tz\Xz\xj is examined. The colouring matter formed proved to be Prussian blue. Since a natural dye obtained from a shellfish is required, the Radzin product is disqualified as an authentic revival. An alternative identification of the ancient blue with Tyrian purple is inconsistent with the accepted designation of the latter as the Biblical purple “argaman”. The Biblical blue is to be identified with the ancient hyacinthine purple, which was evidently derived from Murex trunculus. The Janthina hypothesis is also discussed.
Steric and Electronic Effects in Basic Dyes VI — Electronic Absorption Spectra of Derivatives of Brilliant Green Containing Substituents in the Phenyl Ring
Authors: Fox Brenda M. , Hepworth John D. , Mason Donald , Sawyer John , Hallas Geoffrey
Published: July 2010

A comprehensive series of mono‐ and di‐substituted derivatives of Brilliant Green has been prepared and the various electronic absorption spectra have been determined. Substituents in the 3‐ or 4‐position have little effect on the intensity of the first band, but the wavelength of maximum absorption is shifted to an extent which is linearly related to the appropriate Hammett substituent constant. Substitution in the 2‐position leads to a pronounced increase in the intensity of the long‐wavelength band.
The Efficient Use of Electricity in the Textile Industry
Authors: Chantrey P.
Published: July 2010

To achieve economical use of electricity it is important that the user is on the correct tariff and these are discussed in some detail. Various methods are outlined for economizing in the use of electricity.
International Regulation of Chemicals — Implications for Organic Colorants
Authors: Anliker Rudolf , Clarke Eric A.
Published: July 2010

Following the enactment of the Toxic Substances Control Act (USA), 6th Amendment (EEC) and similar legislation elsewhere, the problems of over‐regulation have become particularly serious for the dye‐making industry, with its multitude of widely‐used but usually small‐tonnage products. Apart from the heavy administrative burden imposed by these regulations, the problems are aggravated by the emotionalism which abounds concerning carcinogenic risk, and the lack of consensus on how animal tests at excessively high dose levels be interpreted in terms of risk to man from trace exposure. A further problem is posed by the incorporation of short‐term testing requirements in the laws before their relevance is fully understood.

This situation leads to the imposition of ultra‐conservative safeguards against risks which are probably insignificant when viewed in the perspective of the total risk situation. The lack of harmonization in requirements between countries creates trade barriers and leads to the anomalous situation where a dye which is a permitted food additive in one country has to be labelled as a carcinogenic textile dye in another.

Inadequate recognition of the importance of confidentiality to the specialised industries poses additional problems as authorities are now establishing computer data banks of ecological and toxicological data. Whilst hazards should not be concealed, the dissemination of costly data and know‐how gratis to competitors can only further penalize the innovator.

These and other problems currently facing the dye‐making industry are explored and the current ecological and toxicological studies are summarized to ensure that, properly handled and used, synthetic organic colorants do not present an unreasonable risk to man or the environment.
The Biological Evaluation of Pyrethroids as Potential Mothproofing Agents
Authors: de Sousa Bernardo , Schmid Werner , Hefti Heinz , Belluš Daniel
Published: July 2010

As a consequence of the restrictions imposed on the use of dieldrin, a world‐wide effort is being made to find an appropriate successor to protect keratinous materials from textile pests, in particular the larvae of the common clothes moth (Tineola bisselliella H.), the black carpet beetle (Attagenus piceus Oliv.) and the furniture carpet beetle (Anthrenus vorax Waterh.) Extensive investigations of permethrin (NRDC 143, FMC 33297, chemical name: 3phenoxybenzyl‐(±) c\s, trans‐2‐(2′,2′‐dichlorovinyl)‐3,3‐dimethylcyclopropane‐1‐carboxylate) have led to the marketing of this pyrethroid. The present paper evaluates different classes of 2‐substituted 3,3‐dimethylcyclopropane‐1‐carboxylates for their mothproofing efficacy. It has been found that the pyrethroids offer good protection against larval damage by the common clothes moth but as a general rule, are less effective in their activity to the Anthrenus species, a textile pest that is acquiring increasing importance as a major source of damage. This disadvantage is found even in otherwise highly active pyrethroids such as permethrin and deltamethrin. Cypermethrin was found to offer slightly better protection than permethrin against larval damage by Attagenus piceus.
Publication Sponsored by the Society's Scarce Resources Committee — IV
Authors: Richardson R. W. , Sykes N.
Published: July 2010

This paper attempts to summarize the cost areas related to the operation of a modern stenter and suggests ways of improving efficiency that can be introduced by the practical finisher. For them to be implemented it is essential that adequate instrumentation is available.
Kinetics of Diffusion—Adsorption of Acid Dyes in Nylon
Authors: Sada E. , Kumazawa H. , Ando T.
Published: July 2010

The process of diffusion—adsorption in the acid dye—nylon system has been analysed on the basis of a diffusion model incorporating instantaneous dual adsorption of the Langmuir and the Nernst type. The calculated dye‐concentration profiles obtained were in good agreement with experimental results previously reported for various acid dye—nylon systems. Furthermore, the model satisfactorily explained the concentration‐dependence of the diffusion coefficients of dyes derived experimentally by the Matano method.
Publication Sponsored by the Society's Fastness Tests Co‐ordinating Committee‐52 Colour Fastness to Chlorinated Water (Swimming Bath Water)
Authors: Ward C D
Published: July 2010

Results obtained using the current standard test (BS 1006‐.E03:1978) do not correspond adequately with the performance of representative dyeings from current ranges of fabrics used in chlorinated swimming pools. A revised test method is defined. It has been subjected to interlaboratory evaluation, to assess repeatability and reproducibility and compared with results from swimming pool trials. It has been shown to be satisfactory in both respects.
The Use of Disperse Dyes Containing Diester Groups to Produce Discharge Effects on Fully Dyed Lightweight Polyester Fabrics
Authors: Brierley D , Provost J R
Published: July 2010

The chemistry of a range of disperse dyes containing diester groups of carboxylic acids (Dispersol PC dyes) are briefly described. The development of a ‘discharge–resist’ printing method and a true resist technique on 100% polyester using these disperse dyes is then outlined. The introduction of two new auxiliary products (Matexil PN–AD and PN–DG) has now led to the use of these Dispersol PC dyes in a process for the discharge printing of fully dyed lightweight polyester fabrics (generally defined as those fabrics having a weight of 80 g/m2 or less and a yarn count per filament of less than 3 dtex). Emphasis is placed on the practical processing conditions necessary to produce these discharge styles and in particular on a new approach to the print thickening system that will enable extremely fine line definition to be achieved.
The Effects of Fluorescent Substances on the Photofading of Colours.
Authors: Shosenji Hideto , Gotoh Kiyoto , Watanabe Chiyo , Yamada Kimiho
Published: July 2010

A fluorescent whitening agent of a pyrazoline type (FJ was found to accelerate the fading of Methyl Violet (MV) on irradiation at 366 nm in a film of polyacrylonitrile, while MV quenched the fading of F. In copolymers of acrylonitrile with vinyl acetate or acrylamide, the fading rates of F and MV as well as the acceleration of the fading of MV by F decreased with increasing comonomer content. The accelerated fading of MV by Fw was also observed in a commercial acrylic fibre, Vonnel W, on irradiation at 330 nm, while F had little effect on the decay of MV in this fibre in visible light. The fastness on polymers of MV exposed to a xenon lamp was in the following order: polyacrylonitrile<gelatin<cellulose acetate<acrylonitrile‐vinyl acetate copolymer.
Photoacoustic Spectroscopy for the Study of the Adsorption of Dyes on Wool Fabrics
Authors: Davidson R Stephen , King Doreen , Duffield Peter A , Lewis David M
Published: July 2010

Dyes have been applied to different wool fabrics and measurements by photoacoustic spectroscopy showed well‐defined absorption bands. Differences were found in the spectral properties of dyes, which appeared visually to be very similar, indicating that photoacoustic spectroscopy may be useful for the identification of dyes on wool fabrics. Photoacoustic spectroscopy was also shown to be capable of measuring two‐dye and three‐dye combinations and very dark colours. Comparisons with reflectance spectroscopy showed that photoacoustic spectroscopy might usefully complement the results obtained from reflectance measurements.
Aggregation Behaviour of Acid Dyes in N,N‐Dimethylformamide‐Trichloroethylene Solvent Mixtures ‐ A Quasielastic Light‐scattering Study
Authors: Chavan R B , Rao J Venkata
Published: July 2010

A new technique, quasielastic light scattering, was employed to study the aggregation behaviour of three acid dyes in dimethylformamide—trichloroethylene solvent mixtures. Observations on the aggregation of these dyes showed that they behaved differently in these mixtures than in aqueous solution. The extent of aggregation was found to vary with the number of sulphonic acid groups present in the dye molecule. Both monosulphonated and disulphonated acid dyes showed a tendency to aggregate with increase either in dye concentration or in trichloroethylene content in dimethylformamide. The low dielectric constant of trichloroethylene was responsible for the tendency of dye to aggregate with increase in trichloroethylene content. The trisulphonated acid dye showed least tendency to aggregate; this may be accounted for by the fact that sulphonic acid groups in the dye molecule are located at sites unfavourable to aggregation.
Quantitative Estimation of Shrink–resist Polymers on Wool by Dye Staining
Authors: De Boos Allan G , White Max A
Published: July 2010

The concentration of polymer on shrink–resist–treated wool fabrics can be quantitatively determined by padding the fabric with organic solvent containing dissolved dye and then measuring the fabric reflectance. The method is particularly suitable for polymers applied by aqueous padding and exhaust processes using such products as Synthappret BAP, but is not applicable to polyamidel epichlorohydrin polymers (e. g. Hercosett 125) and silicones (e. g. Dow Corning DC 109).
Photofading Kinetics and Thermodynamics of Some Azo Disperse Dyes in Amide Solvents under the Influence of Far Ultra–violet Radiation
Authors: Arcoria A , Longo M L , Maccarone E , Parisi G , Perrini G
Published: July 2010

The paper reports some kinetic measurements of photofading of some 4′‐substituted 4–diethylaminoazobenzenes in formamide, N–methy/formamide, N, N–dimethy/formamide, N–methylacetamide and N, N–dimethyiacetamide. The observed Hammett p–values suggest a reductive pathway, as confirmed by the presence of anilines among the fading products. The free energies of solvation of the dyes in the various solvents have also been calculated by measuring the distribution coefficients of the dye between the amide solvent and n–hexane, as immiscible standard solvent. A fair linear correlation exists between the observed rate constants and the free energies of transfer, suggesting the possibility that photofading rate increases with increasing solvation of dye.
Crystal Data for C.I. Pigment Yellow 98
Authors: Whitaker A
Published: July 2010

The single–crystal data and X–ray powder pattern are reported for C. I. Pigment Yellow 98 (α‐(1‐hydroxyethyl‐idene) acet‐2–methyl–4–chloroanilido–α‐azo–(4–chloro–2′‐nitrobenzene)).The powder pattern has been indexed from the cell dimensions given by the single–crystal measurements; the problems of multiple indexing have been reduced by comparing the powder data with observed single–crystal intensities.
Vegetable Dyes of Scotland
Authors: Grierson Su
Published: July 2010

Presented to the Society's Scottish Region on 22 November 1983.

During the past five years I have carried out a great deal of work to establish in practical terms a record of the dyes and colours that would have been available for the production of tartan in the Highlands of Scotland during the period of approximately 100 years prior to the Act of Proscription in 1746
Aspects of Management
Authors: Samuels Arnold
Published: July 2010

Although by no means exhaustive, the paper covers a wide range of management subjects. In most cases, having stated a principle, the author uses illustrations culled from real life to demonstrate that principle and act as a focus for further comment. The subject matter is arranged in similar order to the ASDC ‘Study Guide’ for Paper E (Industrial Organisation and Management), but it is hoped that students and mature managers alike will find something of value in the content or perspective to engage their attention.

The aspects dealt with are: (a) industrial organisation, (b) principles and practice of management, (c) computers, (d) personnel management, (e) layout and maintenance and (f) financial management.
Insectproofing Wool/Nylon Blends — The Distribution of Insectproofing Agents between Wool and Nylon and Its Effect on Insect Resistance
Authors: Mayfield Robert J
Published: July 2010

A study has been made of the distribution of insectproofing agents between wool and nylon after their dyebath application to blends. The active constituents of Eulan WA New and Mitin LP displayed a much higher affinity for the nylon than for the wool. The partition coefficients (k) for these formulations varied from 7. 6 to 23 depending on the type of nylon present. Increasing the application temperature (from 40 to 100°C) and the treatment period (from 30 to 180 min) markedly increased k. Dyebath pH and the presence of levelling agents and dyes had little effect on k, but it was reduced by a nylon‐blocking agent. Perigen generally distributed evenly (k=1–2) between wool and nylon. Testing for insect damage revealed that Eulan WA New adsorbed on nylon made little contribution towards controlling the insect feeding damage to a wool/nylon blend. With a constant application level, the concentration of Eulan WA New on the wool component of blends decreased as the proportion of nylon in the blend was increased, but k remained essentially constant. Much higher application levels of insectproofing agents based on PCSDs are required for insectproofing wool/nylon blends than for wool.
The Effect of Dye Penetration on the Resultant Colour of Polyester Fibres
Authors: Lee Yuen Hoi , Patterson David
Published: July 2010

Presented at the 13th Congress of the International Federation of Associations of Textile Chemists and Colourists in London on 21 September 1984.

The colours of a series of ring‐dyed polyester filaments, in which the dye distributions were measured by an optical sectioning method, were compared with the colours of uniformly dyed filaments of the same overall dye content. Colour measurements were made on randomised pads of chopped fibre using a Zeiss RFC3 colorimeter. It was found that the colour differences between ring‐dyed and uniformly dyed filaments were greatest for light dyeings. Because the dye distributions in ring‐dyed filaments can change during subsequent textile processing the need to avoid ring dyeing is emphasised.
New Intermediates and Dyes for Synthetic‐polymer Fibres. Benzimidazothioxanthenoisoquinolinone Dioxides and Sulphones of 7H‐Benzimidazo (2, 1‐a) benz(d, e) isoquinolin‐7‐one
Authors: Peters Arnold T , Mak K H
Published: July 2010

Condensation of benzo(k,i)thioxanthene‐3, 4‐dicarboxylic acid‐7, 7‐dioxide with o‐phenylenediamine gives a mixture of the new heterocycles benzimidazo(1, 2‐b) thioxantheno(2, 1, 9‐d, e, f) isoquinoline‐7‐one‐16, 16‐dioxide and benzimidazo(2, 1‐a) thioxantheno(2, 1, 9‐d, e, f) isoquinolin‐8‐one‐5, 5‐dioxide. Separation of these isomers is reported, together with their characterisation by unambiguous synthesis. Similar reaction with substituted o‐phenylenediamines affords other isomer mixes of the above. These new dyes colour polyester fibres in orange hues of excellent fastness to light and sublimation. Comparison of the dyes is made with the uncyclised sulphone derivatives of 7H‐benzimidazo(2, 1‐a) benz(d, e) isoquinoline‐7‐one, which are novel bright yellow dyes of good coloration and fastness properties on polyester.
The Effect of Antiozonants on the Reaction of Dyes with Ozone. 2 — Contribution of Antiozonant to the Performance of a ZnO‐Rose Bengal Photosensor During Electrophotography
Authors: Matsui Masaki , Sano Yumiko , Shimidzu Yoshinobu , Kitao Teijiro
Published: July 2010

The breakdown of zinc oxide‐Rose Bengal photosensor has been found to be caused by the fading of Rose Bengal and degradation of resin by ozone and singlet oxygen. When 4, 4′‐methyiene‐bis(2, 6‐di‐t‐butyiphenol), an antiozonant, was added the life of the photosensor was extended from 500 to 2000 charge‐light‐decay cycles.
A Philosophy for Dyeing in the Next Decade
Authors: Keaton J , Glover B
Published: July 2010

Presented at the 13th Congress of the International Federation of Associations of Textile Chemists and Colourists in London on 20 September 1984.
Easy‐care Finishing of Cellulosic and Cellulose‐containing Textiles with Low‐ or Zero‐formaldehyde Cross‐linkers
Authors: Sello Stephen B
Published: July 2010

Presented at the 13th Congress of the International Federation of Associations of Textile Chemists and Colourists in London on 21 September 1984.

Easy‐care cellulosic or cellulose‐containing textiles are produced by setting the fabric in the desired configuration via a cross‐linking reaction between the hydroxy! groups of adjacent cellulose chains. The cross‐linking is generally carried out using amide‐formaldehyde reactants. Although the formaldehyde‐containing cross‐linkers used today are hydrolytically stable, the resin‐finished products still release formaldehyde. In the recent years great efforts have been made to reduce formaldehyde release in order to protect the worker, the environment and the consumer. Formaldehyde release has been reduced by employing formaldehyde scavengers, and introducing etherified versions of the U‐hydroxymethyl reactants.

Since most of the non‐formaldehyde cross‐linkers developed in the 1960s, such as the activated‐vinyl compounds, epoxides, isocyanates, aziridines, etc. are toxic, recent work has been limited to amide‐glyoxal reactants, such as the addition products of glyoxal with dialkylureas or cylic alkyleneureas. These zero‐formaldehyde cross‐linkers may be used either by themselves or preferably in combination with elastomers for the easy‐care finishing of cellulosic blends.
The Stability of Flowing Dispersions
Authors: Gerber H
Published: July 2010

Presented at the 13th Congress of the International Federation of Associations of Textile Chemists and Colourists in London on 20 September 1984.

Within a package‐dyeing machine the danger of dye agglomeration is always greatest in regions where the shear rate is high, i.e. where most of the mechanical energy of the pumps is dissipated. Therefore in modern circulation machines the dye tends to agglomerate mainly within the yarn package, thus hindering the throughput of dye liquor. However, the degree of hindrance to liquor throughput has only a very limited value as a criterion of dispersion stability. Liquor throughput is essentially dependent on the test conditions used. Reproducibility is less than satisfactory in most cases, and the significance of such test results for production conditions, which may vary greatly, can be severely downgraded. Provided certain precautionary measures are adhered to, the bath depletion due to coagulation during the heating phase is readily reproducible. From this it is possible to calculate the coagulation rate constant, i.e. a stability criterion independent of test conditions. Conversely, if a stability constant for a given product is available, then the bath exhaustion and thus the suitability of the product for any desired process can also be computed.
Photoreactivity of Wool Dyed with Reactive Dyes
Authors: Rusznák I , Frankl J , Gombkötő J
Published: July 2010

Presented at the 13th Congress of the International Federation of Associations of Textile Chemists and Colourists in London on 20 September 1984.

Processes induced by two kinds of illumination (ultra‐violet and Xenotest) in wool dyed with reactive dyes ha ve been investigated as a function of time. The fading of dyed fibres has been determined in terms of the conditions of illumination. The degradation of wool was followed on the basis of changes in alkali solubility and tensile characteristics. Moreo ver the colour change of the dyed fibres was also determined. Correlation was found between the chemical structure of the dye, the extent of fading and the photodegradation undergone by the wool. On the basis of amino acid analysis conclusions were drawn on the photodegradation mechanism of wool, both uncoloured and dyed with reactive dyes. Reactive dyes protect wool against photodegradation, and at the same time the light fastness of reactive dyes on wool is 1–1.5 units higher than on cotton, both under ultra‐violet (u.v.) and Xenotest irradiation.
Emission and Excitation Spectra of Natural Yellow Dyes on Silk Fabrics Before and After Fading
Authors: Nasu Yoshiko , Nakazawa Fumiko , Kashiwagi Maresuke
Published: July 2010

A new non‐destructive method has been devised for identifying faded dyes used to colour textile fabrics through examination of their emission and excitation spectra. Application of this method to complex natural yellow dyes has shown each dye to manifest its characteristic structure in the excitation spectra, even after considerable colour fading.
Biodegradation of Azo Acid Dyes by Continuous Cultivation of Pseudomonas Cepacia 13NA
Authors: Ogawa Toshihiko , Yatome Chizuko , Idaka Eiichi , Kamiya Hideaki
Published: July 2010

The biodegradability of azo acid dyes by continuous cultivation of Pseudomonas cepacia 13NA, a bacterium able to assimilate azo dyes, was investigated as a means of improving the results of conventional biological treatments for the clarification of the waste dye liquor. It was found that all the acid dyes used were removed in high efficiencies compared with the conventional biological treatments. Multi‐stage continuous cultivation in the poor nutrient conditions used proved to be particularly effective for acid dyes that otherwise would be difficult to degrade.
Calculating the Size of Pipes for Transporting Steam and Fluids
Authors: Wrennal L M
Published: July 2010

The Society's Coloration Machinery Group, prior to its becoming part of the new Industrial Resources Committee, comissioned a series of articles to deal, in a practical manner, with the related topics of pipe sizing for steam and water, the measurement of fluid flow and the metering of liquids. The present article covers the first of these areas.
Continuous Dyeing of Piece Goods Using Radio‐frequency Heating. Part 2‐Migration Induced During Dyeing
Authors: Burkinshaw Stephen M , Marshall William J
Published: July 2010

Reactive dyes on open‐width cotton fabric migrate during drying using r.f energy. This migration, contrary to expectations, is greater than that obtained when using conventional hot‐air drying. The extent of dye migration is reduced by an increase in the electrolyte concentration of the dye pad liquor. A possible explanation for r.f.‐induced dye migration is proposed.
The Development of a Generalised Equation to Determine Affinity. Part 3‐Application to Practical Systems
Authors: Sumner Harry H
Published: July 2010

The modification of the equations developed in Parts 1 and 2 of this series [1,2] in order to make them applicable to practical dyeing systems is described. Particular emphasis is placed on predicting the effects that changes in dye affinity and dyeing conditions will have on the amount of dye adsorbed, and the relationship between the amount of dye on fibre and the amount applied.
Rinsing Processes in Open‐width Washing Machines
Authors: Kroezen A B J , van der Linden H J L J , Wassink J Groot
Published: July 2010

A simulator is described for rinsing processes carried out on open‐width washing machines. In combination with a theoretical model, a simple method is given for testing rinsing processes. The method has been used to investigate the extraction of caustic soda from a cotton fabric, varying the temperature, fabric velocity and type of fabric. The results were verified by measurements in a commercial open‐width washing machine. The absorption of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere in the washing water is shown to be important for removing the caustic soda. The method may be used in practical situations to optimise process conditions.
The Value of X‐ray Powder Diffraction Analysis in Colour Chemistry
Authors: Whitaker A.
Published: July 2010

After discussing some of the basic ideas, advantages and disadvantages of X‐ray powder diffraction analysis, it is pointed out that at present a major disadvantage for colour chemists is the lack of a special sub‐file of suitable standard X‐ray data. A plea is made for colleagues to report their data, forthe Journal to act as a depository and for the Society to consider the feasibility of separate data sub‐file of use to colour chemists and dyers, persuading the Joint Committee on Powder Diffraction Standards (JCPDSj to set one up. The article then proceeds to illustrate the usefulness of the technique to problems in colour chemistry. The effects on the X‐ray powder pattern of the crystal size, polymorphism, isomers, and solid solutions and mixed crystals are discussed. This is illustrated with examples from the work of the author and other investigators. The paper concludes by looking at the application of the X‐ray powder method to the analysis of vat dyes on various fabrics.
Crystal Data for C.I. Pigment Yellow 74
Authors: Whitaker A
Published: July 2010

The single‐crystal data and X‐ray powder pattern are reported for C. I. Pigment Yellow 74 [α‐(1‐hydroxy‐ethylidene)acet‐2‐methoxyanilide‐α‐azo‐(2′‐methoxy‐4′‐nitrobenzene)]. The powder pattern has been indexed from the cell dimensions given by single‐crystal measurements; the problems of multiple indexing have been reduced by comparing the powder with observed single‐crystal intensities.
The Continours Measurement of the Air Permeability of Moving Fabric Webs
Authors: Holweg R B M
Published: July 2010

A description of the equipment developed for the continours measurement of the air permeability of moving fabric webs is presented. Details of the technique applied in practice for the measurement of the air premeability are given. The equipement developed is simple, inexpensive and may be useful in studying the effect of premeability in textile finishing processes, e.g. in the printing process.
Continuous Dyeing of Piece Goods Using Radio‐frequency Heating. Part 1‐Characteristics of Dielectric Heating in Relation to Continuous Dyeing
Authors: Burkinshaw Stephen M , Marshall William J
Published: July 2010

Current textile uses of dielectric heating are reviewed and the possible application of radio‐frequency (r.f.) heating to continuous dyeing of piece goods is discussed. The contribution of typical dyebath components to r.f. power absorption is described in terms of heating rates of aqueous solutions. The effect of electrolyte concentration upon both r.f. power absorption and drying rate of open‐width cotton fabric padded with a reactive dye is discussed.
Investigation of the Alkaline Modification of Wool Using New Analytical Methods for the Determination of Degradation
Authors: Steenken I. , Zahn H.
Published: July 2010

In order to meet the requirements for brilliant colours and high wet fastness, the cotton component of wool/cotton blends is often dyed with reactive dyes under strongly alkaline conditions. A modified enzymatic method has been used to determine dehydroalanine residues formed in wool during commercial dyeing treatments. Reaction mechanisms of cystine degradation have been studied on the basis of the amounts of dehydroalanine present. Hydrogen sulphide could be determined quantitatively in wool and in dyebaths using an improved method that minimises further cystine degradation and hydrogen sulphide oxidation.
The effect of finishing on the mechanical and thermal properties of wool fabrics. Part1‐the properties of piece‐dyed fabrics
Authors: De Boos A G
Published: July 2010

Changes in the handle‐related deformation properties of wool fabric following piece dyeing were found to be related to the set imparted by the dyeing operation, and resulted primarily from dimensional changes in the fabric. When dyeing imparted large amounts of set to the wool, increased contraction during drying resulted in a heavier, more extensible fabric. Inhibiting set by dyeing at low pH, or by dyeing in the presence of an oxidising agent or cross‐linker, reduced the effect. Objectively measured fabric surface properties and subjective assessment of smoothness were little affected by the conditions of dyeing and were far more dependent on the dry‐finishing method used to set the fabric and, to a lesser extent, on the method used to pre‐set the fabric prior to dyeing. The effect of extended dyeing on the mechanical properties of the fabric depended not only on the pH of dyeing but also on the nature of the dyeing machine.
Correct pretreatment‐the first step to quality in modern textile processing
Authors: Bille Heinz E
Published: July 2010

Cotton continues to be a very widely used natural fibre. However, it becomes ever more difficult to define it exactly in chemical terms, because the variety and quantity of non‐cellulosic constituents in the raw cotton are continually increasing in number and becoming more difficult to specify. The textile processor can only count on 75%, or at best 80%, being genuine cellulosic material; the remainder consists mainly of impurities that can seriously interfere with subsequent processes.

Modem pretreatment processes take full account of the specific quality requirements, and naturally also the relevant cost factors (energy, effluent, processing costs). By these means the bleacher can now convert raw cotton into a chemically uniform and defined cellulosic textile substrate for the subsequent processes. In this form, either alone or in blends with synthetic fibres, it is accessible for dyeing, printing and finishing processes that can be readily controlled and reproduced.
The redox behaviour of some aminonaphthoquinonoid dyes
Authors: Matsuoka Masaru , Kubo Yuji , Kitao Teijiro
Published: July 2010

The redox behaviour of some aminonaphthoquinonoid dyes including quinoxalinequinones, 2‐arylamino‐1,4‐naphthoquinones and indonaphtholes have been investigated with the aim of developing new colour former systems for use as heat‐and pressure‐sensitive functional dyes. These dyes were found generally to absorb light over a wide region of the spectrum, some of the absorption being caused by the quinone‐quinoneimine tautomerism of the dyes. The dyes were reduced to the corresponding colourless leuco forms, which were readily reoxidised to the coloured forms in the presence of atmospheric oxygen or oxidising agent. The spectral characteristics of coloured and leuco forms of the dyes were examined.