bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Dependence of Thermal Crystallization of Poly(ethylene Terephthalate) on Active Mobility of Amorphous Chain Segments
Authors: Sawatari Chie , Matsuo Masaru
Published: March 2008

Amorphous poly(ethylene terephthalate) films were stretched in hot water baths at 65 and 80°C to prepare drawn specimens. The specimens were held with fixed dimension in the stretching direction again in a hot water bath at 80°C, in order to study the relationship between thermal crystallization and active mobility of amorphous chain segments. The thermal crystallization rate increased with increasing molecular orientation of the original drawn specimens prior to the annealing, but the final value of crystallinity levelled off and attained a constant value. The corresponding second-order orientation factor showed predominant orientation arising in the annealing process associated with thermal crystallization to form folded-type crystals, and the increase in the factor was dependent on the degree of orientation of the amorphous chain segments in the original drawn films. Further more, spherulitic textures were confirmed by the Hv light scattering technique when the films below the draw ratio of 2.5 were annealed in a hot oven beyond 150°C. Through a series of the experiments, one may conclude that thermal crystallization is strongly affected by the active mobility of amorphous chain segments.
Reference Standard Wool Tops for Measurement of Fiber Diameter Distribution
Authors: Lunney H.W.M. , Brown G.H.
Published: March 2008

The accurate measurement of the distribution of wool fiber diameter in a top using the projection microscope is described. The work is directed towards establishing the best way of generating reference standard tops. The fiber diameters are shown to conform to a lognormal distribution.
Gram-Negative Bacteria and Endotoxin in Cotton: Effect of Multiple Lint Cleaning
Authors: Columbus Eugene P.
Published: March 2008

Over a two-year period, 72 bales of Mississippi Delta grown cotton were processed with zero to seven lint cleaners in increments of one lint cleaner to evaluate the effect on gram-negative bacteria and endotoxin remaining in the ginned lint. The gram- negative bacteria content decreased as the number of lint cleaners increased; however, only minimum decreases were obtained after the second lint cleaner. Linear correlation coefficients for gram-negative bacteria versus nonlint content ranged from 0.66 to 0.96. Correlations between gram-negative bacteria and grade components were also determined. The number of lint cleaners did not affect the level of endotoxin remaining in the ginned lint.
An Evaluation of Nep Formation at the Cotton Gin
Authors: Mangialardi Gino J.
Published: March 2008

Experiments were conducted to determine the effects of moisture content, processing rate, and gin machinery type on nep formation. Using a seed cotton cleaning machinery sequence recommended by the USDA ginning laboratories for Midsouth spindle har vested cotton, two lint moisture levels were tested at two process rates with three stages of saw cylinder lint cleaners. Samples for nep count analyses were obtained at seven locations in the ginning machinery sequence. These were tested with the USDA AMS standard method, which measures the number of neps in 645 cm2 of web. For the treatments studied, the gin stand and saw cylinder lint cleaners were the major con tributors to the formation of neps at gins.
Porosity Versus Segment Mobility in Dye Diffusion Kinetics— A Differential Treatment: Dyeing of Acrylic Fibers
Authors: Rohner Rolf M. , Zollinger Heinrich
Published: March 2008

The diffusion kinetics of the cationic dye thionine from an aqueous buffer solution into the two acrylic fibers Dralon X-100 and Dunova was studied at various temper atures between 59.0°C and 98.5 °C. The two fibers are practically identical with respect to chemical composition. The glass transition temperatures in the dry state (Tg) and in water (TD) are the same within experimental error. They differ physically, however, with respect to overall porosity and pore size distribution. The evaluation of diffusion kinetics as a function of temperature and their comparison with the temperature dependence of free diffusion in water, as well as desorption experiments, demonstrate that the pore model mechanism and the free volume (segment mobility) mechanism operate simultaneously. The first is dominant for the porous fiber Dunova and the second for the less porous fiber Dralon.
Thermal Response Associated with Prototype Pesticide Protective Clothing
Authors: Branson Donna H. , Dejonge Jacquelyn O. , Munson Deanna
Published: March 2008

In an effort to develop protective clothing that offered improved heat dissipation characteristics to pesticide applicators, the thermal responses were collected from 54 male subjects wearing two prototypes and a typical clothing ensemble. The performance of three designs and three fabrics with known chemical protective characteristics was determined in a controlled laboratory, simulating a hot environment. Analysis of physiological and perceptual data revealed that one protective fabric offered a similar thermal comfort level as chambray, a fabric growers often wear for pesticide application, which is an ineffective barrier to pesticide penetration.
Potentiometric Titration of Amidomethylol (N—CH2OH) Groups in Durable Press Fabrics
Authors: Kamath Y.K. , Hornby S.B. , Briant D.W. , Weigmann H.-D.
Published: March 2008

The N—CH2OH content of durable press fabrics can be determined by reacting the formaldehyde generated during alkaline hydrolysis of the finish with a known amount of cyanide; the excess cyanide can be titrated directly with silver nitrate using a potentiometric method with a cyanide-sensitive electrode. The data indicate that the method is accurate and reproducible.
Crosslinked Acrylic Acid Based Thickeners: Preparation and Performance in Reactive Printing of Cotton
Authors: Bajaj P. , Chavan R.B. , Bhatia Manjeet
Published: March 2008

For economic and technical reasons, low solid content thickeners are desirable for printing cotton with reactive dyes. With this in mind, the crosslinking of an acrylic acid-based thickener (saponified acrylonitrile terpolymer) was attempted with multi valent metal salts and a bifunctional crosslinking reagent. As the concentration of aluminium sulphate increased, a tremendous increase in the viscosity occurred. At an aluminium sulphate concentration of 2.5% w/w and a formaldehyde content of 0.25% w/w, the crosslinked products showed the printable viscosities at solid contents of 1.5-2.0% and 0.5-1.0%, respectively. The performance of these products in the reactive printing of cotton is also detailed.
A New Approach to Wool Carbonizing
Authors: Kirkpatrick A.
Published: March 2008

New methods have been studied for carbonizing vegetable contaminants in wool. A novel technique is described for assessing the brittleness and crushability of seeds and burrs. Thionyl chloride, applied either as a vapor or in perchloroethylene solution, is an effective carbonizing agent, and in some cases no baking step is necessary. In general, these treatments cause no marked damaged to wool (there is some increase in yellowness) as measured by various textile properties.
Applying a Durable Press Finish to Wet Fabrics Using a Low Wet Pickup Method to Conserve Energy
Authors: Reeves Wilson A. , Day Mary O. , Phillips Kathryn M.
Published: March 2008

Wet cotton twill fabrics containing 30, 58, or 83% water were fogged with DMDHEU to determine the feasibility of wet-on-wet chemical finishing. The fogging process added 14, 20, or 26% water along with 6, 8, or 10% DMDHEU. The influence of processing variables on stiffness, breaking strength, nitrogen content, wrinkle recovery, and durable press properties of treated fabrics were determined. Breaking strength was significantly influenced by the amount of water in wet fabrics before the DMDHEU was applied, but the amount of water added during fogging had little or no effect on strength of fabrics. The amount of water in fabrics before fogging had a slight effect on the amount of nitrogen fixed in treated fabrics, whereas the amount of water added by fogging (with DMDHEU solution) had a significant effect on amount of nitrogen fixed in fabrics. Wrinkle recovery values of wet-on-wet finished fabrics were similar to values of pad-dry-cure fabrics with the same amount of fixed nitrogen; however, durable press ratings of wet-on-wet processed fabrics were significantly higher than durable press ratings of pad-dry-cure processed fabrics with the same amount of ni trogen. Wet-on-wet processing could conserve considerable energy compared to pad- dry-cure processing and could conserve modest amounts of energy compared to low wet pickup finishing of dry fabrics.
Cotton Fiber Maturity by Image Analysis
Authors: Thibodeaux Devron P. , Evans Janice P.
Published: March 2008

Applications of state-of-the-art image analysis techniques to measuring cotton (Gos sypium sp.) fiber maturity are reported. Individual cotton fibers arrayed longitudinally on microscope slides are optically scanned by the image analyzer. The fiber's video image is automatically broken into narrow bands for discreet measurements of pro jected fiber widths along its length. The ratio of the average maximum to the average minimum of these measurements is related to the degree of development of the sec ondary wall of each fiber. Results are reported for several cotton varieties of either measured maturities or of known fiber post-anthesis ages.
Evolution of the Microdust and Trash Monitor for Cotton Classification
Authors: Shofner Frederick M. , Williams Gordon F.
Published: March 2008

The microdust and trash monitor (MTM) is described from early exploratory ver sions to the current fifth generation, high-speed, automated instrument for measuring foreign matter in bale or processed fiber. The MTM aeromechanically releases and separates foreign matter, classifies it, and reports its weights as percentages of lint weight.
Surface Energy of Wool
Authors: Brooks J.H. , Rahman M.S.
Published: March 2008

The dispersion and polar components of the surface free energy of untreated and chlorinated Lincoln wool fibers have been determined from the wetting forces of water and methylene iodide. The values obtained for the untreated wool fibers were close to those previously reported for human hair. Chlorination increased only the polar component. The three-phase boundary moved in steps corresponding to the scale spacing of the fiber surface. Procedures for determining relevant wetting forces were developed.
Effects of Fiber Structural Modification on the Dyeing Behavior and Mechanical Properties of Polyamide Yarns
Authors: Moore R.A.F. , Weigmann H.-D.
Published: March 2008

Pretreating nylon 6 and nylon 66 yams in interactive chemical systems or in saturated steam enhances dye transport within the fiber and increases the capacity of the fiber for dye. Chemical treatments with aqueous and nonaqueous solutions of phenol are more effective in promoting rapid dye transport than steam treatments. The increased rate of dye diffusion in the treated yams can be attributed to greater polymer segmental mobility as reflected by decreased dyeing transition temperatures and orientation changes in the amorphous (noncrystalline) domains. Mechanical properties of the treated yams have also been correlated with orientation in the amorphous domains. In contrast to the disorder produced in the amorphous domains, the treatments improve chain packing in the crystalline domains.
A Model for Predicting Set in Helices
Authors: De Jong S. , Michie N.A.
Published: March 2008

A model is developed to calculate the residual set in a helical fiber axis after it has been wrapped around a mandrel, set into this shape, and released. The theory used is linear viscoelasticity in conjunction with the bending and twisting equations for thin rods. The model may be applied equally well to calculate the snarling behavior of twisted yams. An example of this is presented to confirm predictions made by the model. Two cases in the setting of helices are analyzed. In the first case the released helix is not in contact with the mandrel. In this case the bending and torsional set in the helical fiber axis follows quite simply from principles of linear viscoelasticity. In the second case, the released helix is constrained to lie on the surface of the mandrel. Results of this second case are more complex, but have been computed and presented in tabular form.
Comparison of Fabric Hand Assessment in the United States and Japan
Authors: Behery Hassan M.
Published: March 2008

Fabric hand was assessed for 145 fabrics by several methods used in the United States and Japan. A quantitative method using a nozzle, developed in the United States, was tested. Several physical properties related to fabric hand were evaluated using standard procedures. A subjective hand measurement was recorded by a team of experts in the United States to determine the relative hand of these fabrics as com pared to a standard sample. Techniques developed by Kawabata and his group were performed on the same samples in Japan. Correlations between these methods were examined.
Effect of Manganese (II), Cobalt (II), and Copper (I) Hydroxides on the Kinetics of the Oxidation of Cellulose by Hypochlorite
Authors: Nevell T.P. , Singh O.P.
Published: March 2008

The catalytic effect of Mn (II), Co(II), and Cu(I) hydroxides on the oxidation of cellulose by hypochlorite has been examined, particularly the very early stages of the reaction where the primary process may be presumed to predominate. The rate of oxidation in the absence of any catalyst and in the presence of manganese and cobalt is greatest at pH 7.0, and in the presence of copper, the rate is greatest at pH 7.5. The catalytic activity of the three hydroxides is in the order Co ⪢ Cu > Mn. Copper numbers and acid contents of some of the oxycelluloses have been measured before and after treatment with chlorous acid. The results show that the faster the reaction the greater the ratio of aldehyde to other reducing groups in the product and that, with copper, initially formed aldehyde groups are more readily oxidized further by hypochlorite than with the other catalysts.
Measuring Filling Yarn Tension and Its Influence on Fabrics Woven on a Projectile Weaving Machine
Authors: Chahal Vinod , Mohamed Mansour H.
Published: March 2008

Dynamic filling yam tension was measured on a Sulzer projectile weaving machine using two different yams: 50/2 Ne PES/wool blend and a 2/150/30 denier textured PES. The filling tension was monitored with a specially designed transducer. The effect of intermediate yarn feeding devices on the filling tension was analyzed. The yarn tension traces were investigated for pick insertion, tension compensation, and projectile checking mechanisms. Fabric samples were woven under different filling tension levels and then tested for fabric weight, fabric width, fabric shrinkage, and crimp levels. An attempt was made to correlate the filling tension and the fabric properties.
Poly(ethylene Terephthalate)/Poly(alkylene Terephthalate) Copolyester Fibers: Mechanical and Physical Properties
Authors: Varma D.S. , Agarwal Radha , Varma I.K.
Published: March 2008

Copolyesters were prepared by melt condensation of poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) with poly(hexamethylene terephthalate), poly(octamethylene terephthalate), and poly(decamethylene terephthalate). These polymers were characterized by 13C- NMR and intrinsic viscosity measurements. The PET and the copolyesters were spun into fibers using the conventional melt spinning technique. The fibers were drawn to ratios of 3, 4, and 5. Decreases in Tg, Tc, Tm, density, birefringence, crystallinity, and orientation were observed in the copolyester fibers, with an increase in the number of methylene groups in the PET backbone.
Effect of Electrolytes on the Dyeing of Polyacrylonitrile Fiber with Anthraquinone Cation Dyes
Authors: De Giorgi Maria Rita , Alberti Guido , Cerniani Ado
Published: March 2008

The effect of various electrolytes on the dyeing rate and on the adsorption isotherms of two anthraquinone cation dyes was studied. The relative synthesis and fastness tests are reported. The results clearly indicate that the retarding effect of the various elec trolytes is related to the ionic radius of the cation of the electrolyte. A linear correlation was found between the saturation values, calculated with the Langmuir isotherms, and the radius of the hydrated ions.
Computer Model for Predicting Point-Bonded Nonwoven Fabric Strength, Part I
Authors: Grindstaff T.H. , Hansen S.M.
Published: March 2008

A computer model is described that yielded results consistent with Instron stress- strain curves for both the machine and cross directions of various polyester, thermally point-bonded, nonwoven fabrics. Fiber and bond tensile properties, bond layout, fabric density, and fiber curl and orientation were entered into the computer, and the program followed the evolution of the fabric system as it was distorted under stress.
Spreading of Liquids in Textile Assemblies
Authors: Kawase Tokuzo , Sekoguchi Sakiko , Fuj Tomiko , Minagawa Motoi
Published: March 2008

In a series of studies on the effects of finishes on textile wetting, the capillary spreading of a liquid drop in fabric was investigated by a photographic technique as a function of time, drop volume, and surface tension/viscosity ratio. The area covered by the spreading liquid was found to be expressed by an exponential equation. During phase I, when some of the liquid is on the fabric surface, the area of the spreading liquid is proportional to the square root of time, in accord with the Washburn equation. Phase II is when the liquid is contained within the fabric. For impermeable fibers, the ex ponents are in agreement with previously reported values. When the liquid diffuses into the fibers, the exponents decrease, increase, or remain essentially constant. The exponent of the spreading of n-decane increases with increasing hydrophobicity of the fibers. The exponents of rayon fabric exhibit anomalies caused by the geometry of rayon fibers.
Conversion of Cellulose I to Stable Cellulose III
Authors: Yatsu L.Y. , Calamari T.A. , Benerito R.R.
Published: March 2008

Cotton cellulose in fiber, yarn, or fabric form was converted from cellulose I to the cellulose III polymorph. Excellent conversion to III was obtained by immersing cotton (cellulose I) in liquid ammonia at room temperature, subjecting it to pressures from 689.5 to 11,721.5 kPa (100 to 1700 psi) while saturated with ammonia, and de-gassing the ammonia at either room temperature or elevated (about 140°C) temperatures. De-gassing at either temperature was equally effective. Complete conversion to III was obtained when cotton fibers from a never-dried cotton boll were dried with dime thoxypropane, treated with liquid ammonia at 140°C and at 11,721.5 kPa, and dried at or above the critical temperature (132.5°C). Crystalline cellulose III obtained under high pressures was stable to boiling water. After several hours in boiling water, there was only a slight indication of its conversion to IV. Complete conversion of III to IV was obtained by first subjecting III to anhydrous ethylenediamine and then to the aprotic polar solvent, dimethylformamide.
False Twist Texturization of Polypropylene Multifilament Yarns
Authors: Sengupta A.K. , Sen K. , Mukhopadhyay A.
Published: March 2008

Incorporating small amounts of polyester and polystyrene into polypropylene by melt blending prior to spinning reduces crystallinity considerably. An amount as low as 5% polystyrene reduces crystallinity from 70% for the parent fiber to 34% for the blend. A reduction in feeder yam crystallinity results in a greatly improved performance in texturizability of the fiber.
Effect of Shrinkproofing Pretreatments with Solvents and Polyamines on the Surface Energy of Wool
Authors: Brooks J.H. , Rahman M.S.
Published: March 2008

Treating wool with tetraethylenepentamine or polyethyleneimine or rinsing wool with 70% acetone had no significant effect on the dispersion (γ ds) or polar ( γps) com ponents of the surface energy of the wool. Therefore, the previously reported effec tiveness of these treatments for resin shrinkproofing of wool cannot be ascribed to surface chemical factors. However, extracting wool with an azeotropic mixture of benzene/ethanol/water increased γ ds and reduced γ ps to zero, meaning that nonpolar polymers should spread and adhere more efficiently to wool so pretreated.
A Low Temperature Scouring/Bleaching Process for Cotton Using Sodium Chlorite
Authors: Gulrajani M.L. , Venkatraj R.
Published: March 2008

A single stage, low temperature scouring/bleaching process has been investigated, based on an emulsified solvent scouring agent and a triethanolamine hydrochloride activated sodium chlorite bleaching agent. The optimization uses response surface methodology. It is possible to scour and bleach cotton fabric at 60°C with sodium chlorite.
Never Dried Cotton Fibers Have a Circular Cross Section
Authors: Peeters M.-C. , Wijsmans J. , De Langhe I. , De Langhe E. , Waterkeyn L.
Published: March 2008

The shape of the fiber in the cotton boll just before natural dehydration was studied by different preparation techniques. The results all pointed to the fact that never dried fibers have a circular cross section. Therefore, a simple observation of never dried fibers on equatorial optical plane provides a correct evaluation of basic dimensional parameters such as section diameter and wall thickness.
Skin Friction and Fabric Sensations in Neutral and Warm Environments
Authors: Gwosdow A.R. , Stevens J.C. , Berglund L.G. , Stolwijk J.A.J.
Published: March 2008

The influence of skin friction on the perception of fabric texture and pleasantness (acceptability) was studied by exposing eight men to a sequence of environmental conditions: neutral (comfortable), hot-dry, hot-humid, and return to neutral. The air and dew point temperatutes ( Ta: Tdp) of these conditions were 23:15°C, 35:15°C, 35 :29°C, and 23:15°C, respectively; air velocity was 0.05 m/s. During each condition, which lasted 20 minutes, six different fabrics (worsted wool, brushed cotton, cotton, silk, linen, and burlap) were slowly pulled across the subject's forearm. Frictional force of fabric pull across the forearm and the subject's ratings of texture and pleasantness (hedonic) were recorded. Arm skin temperature and skin wettedness were recorded continually. The frictional force required to pull each fabric over the skin correlated positively (P < 0.05) with skin wettedness. As force and skin wettedness increased, the subjects rated all fabrics as feeling more textured (rougher) and less pleasant (P < 0.05). Increased perception of fabric texture significantly decreased fabric ac ceptability. On return to the neutral condition, the parameters returned to their initial values. The conclusion is that moisture on the skin surface increases skin friction, which enhances perception of roughness and decreases the acceptability of clothing worn in hot environments.
Instrumental Techniques to Quantify Textural Change in Carpet Part I: Image Analysis
Authors: Jose D.J. , Hollies N.R.S. , Spivak S.M.
Published: March 2008

Work on carpet appearance change is reported, focusing on new textural measure ments of carpet pile. Three instrumental techniques to assess this texture change have been developed: image analysis, goniophotometry, and densitometry. A set of specially prepared saxony-type polyester carpet constructions were tested, both as unworn con trols and service worn to 60,000 steps of foot traffic. In Part I, actual carpet samples and their photographs were analyzed using computerized image analysis. This tech nique may prove valuable in assessing meaningful differences in carpet appearance, and particularly textural changes caused by pile/tuft definition or coherence. Gray level histograms were correlated with changes in appearance, differenoes in tuft spacing, and related carpet properties.
Effect of a Softening Agent on Yarn Pull-out Force of a Plain Weave Fabric
Authors: Sebastian S.A.R.D. , Bailey A.I. , Briscoe B.J. , Tabor D.
Published: March 2008

This paper describes a study of the effect of a cationic softening agent on the processes involved in pulling out a single warp yarn from a plain weave cotton fabric. In par ticular, measurements are made of the pull-out force and the corresponding yarn and fabric deformations, and these parameters are compared with those observed on un treated fabric. These forces and weave deformation data are combined using a simple model to provide estimates of the weave's shear stiffness and a single yarn's tensile stiffness in the weave. In addition these data uniquely attribute the maximum pull- out force to the rupture of one crossover and the subsequent decrease in pull-out force to a sliding friction per crossover. The conclusion is that the treatment reduces the yarn tensile "modulus" in the weave, the interyam adhesion, and the interyam sliding friction, and it increases the deformability as well as the recoverability of the fabric.
Using Electron Microscopy and X-Ray Microanalysis to Study Wool Morphology and Composition
Authors: Carr Christopher M. , Holt Leo A. , Drennan John
Published: March 2008

Energy dispersive x-ray analysis has been used in combination with scanning electron microscopy and scanning transmission electron microscopy to investigate the distri bution of both cystine and tyrosine in the morphological components of wool fiber. The technique has also been used to show that the zirconium in Zirpro treated wool is deposited evenly throughout the fiber.
Tensile Properties of Twisted para-Aramid Fibers
Authors: Hearle J.W.S. , Zhou C.Y.
Published: March 2008

The tensile stress-strain properties of twisted para-aramid fibers have been measured by three experimental procedures: (A) twist at constant length, followed by extension; (B) initial extension, followed by twisting; (C) and twist at constant small tension with contraction, followed by extension. Additionally a fourth procedure of twisting and untwisting was used to examine the act of twisting, not the presence of twist. The strength and breaking extension of aramid fibres decreased at much lower twist factors than nylon and polyester. The contraction on twisting lies between the predictions of two theoretical models.
Analysis and Mathematical Modeling of an On-Line Cotton Moisture Measuring System
Authors: Wilkes James M. , Waldie Arthur H.
Published: March 2008

We present an analysis of a cotton moisture measuring system designed and de veloped for on-line use in a cotton ginning environment. The development of a math ematical model simulating the system measurements and relating these measurements to the dielectric properties of an inhomogeneous mixture of air, cotton, and water is discussed in detail. We then describe the calibration of the system and compare pre dicted moisture regains, based on our model, to those obtained by the standard oven method. The predicted moistures were within ±0.9 percentage points of those deter mined by the oven method over a range of oven moistures from 7.8% to 17.9%.
Interaction of Polyvinyl Pyrrolidone with Disazo Dyes
Authors: Sheth G.N. , Bhattacharya N.
Published: March 2008

The interaction between polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP) and two disazo dyes of different chemical composition has been examined from the results of spectrophotometry, con ductometry, and viscosity measurements. The amounts of PVP required for interaction with these dyes depend on the molecular weight of PVP. Changes in the configuration of the PVP molecule due to dye interaction depend on the amount of dye interacted as well as the molecular weight of PVP. The effect of PVP on the interaction between two disazo dyes has also been studied.
Thermal Protective Performance of Heat-Resistant Fabrics in Various High Intensity Heat Exposures
Authors: Young Moo Lee  , Barker Roger L.
Published: March 2008

The thermal protective performance of 21 heat-resistant fabrics made with poly benzimidazole (PBI), aromatic polyamide (aramid), and blends of PBI with aramid or with flame retardant rayon fibers was evaluated in laboratory tests using highly intense exposures to radiant or convective heat sources. The contribution of heat transfer mechanisms to thermal insulation is discussed, as is the degradation behavior of different materials in high intensity heating. Variables important in the development of improved fabrics for thermal protective apparel are identified.
Woven Fabrics Prepared from High Tenacity Cotton/Polyester Core Yarn
Authors: Harper Robert J. , Ruppenicker George F.
Published: March 2008

Woven fabric was prepared from core yarns having a high tenacity polyester filament core and a cotton wrap. To demonstrate the unique characteristics of this core-yarn fabric, an all-cotton control and a 60% cotton/40% high tenacity intimate blend control were also prepared. The core yarn fabric had superior strength characteristics over the intimate blend and all-cotton controls before and after durable press finishing. A unique property of the core-yarn fabrics was improved cover as demonstrated by air perme ability measurements. The core-yarn fabric was similar to the all-cotton in appearance and pill resistance and had a luxurious full hand.
Role of Phenol in High Temperature Dyeing of Polyester
Authors: Dhara Debasis , Gulrajani M.L.
Published: March 2008

The dyeing characteristics of a polyester fabric have been investigated in the presence of phenol with CI disperse orange 13. Phenol increases the acceleration factor largely because of the lowering of TD, particularly at lower dyeing temperatures. The increased solubility of the dye in the phenol solution seems to promote higher exhaustion as well as equilibrium dye uptake.
Inducing and Measuring Particulate Migration' 1
Authors: Etters J.N.
Published: March 2008

A review of a recommended method for inducing and measuring particulate mi gration is given and refinements to the method are suggested. Statistical analysis of experimental data shows that the use of a watch glass migration chamber that is sat urated with water vapor can lead to slightly higher values of particulate migration than can the use of an unsaturated chamber.
Surfactant Solution Transport in Wool Yarn
Authors: Trounson Mary E. , McLaughlin John R.
Published: March 2008

The transport of nonylphenol poly(ethylene oxide) surfactant solutions in bundles of wool carpet yams was studied and the kinetics were found to conform to Fick's law. Yam contaminants (residual wool grease and water soluble spinning lubricant) had a major effect on the diffusivity coefficients. The detergency of residual wool grease was involved in the solution transport and was probably the rate-determining step. Scoured and unscoured yams behaved differently: scoured yarn was wetted most rapidly by a surfactant with an EO/NP ratio of 9, while unscoured yam wetted most rapidly when the EO/NP was 12. The rate of solution transport in scoured yam in creased greatly with surfactant concentration but little with temperature, while the converse held for unscoured yarn.
Modeling of Marine Rope Fatigue Behavior
Authors: Mandell J.F.
Published: March 2008

Fatigue data for nylon and polyester marine ropes from several testing programs in Europe and the U.S. are compared and analyzed. Failures at loads above 30-40% of the new breaking strength for nylon or 60-70% for polyester can be predicted by a model based on the creep-rupture behavior of individual fibers and yams. Failures at lower loads and higher cycles usually occur by external or internal abrasion, following a steeper S-N curve trend; an abrasion model is presented that correlates well with these data. Polyester outperforms nylon under wet conditions in both regimes of be havior for a wide range ofrope samples. Additional topics discussed are thermal failures from hysteretic heating in dry ropes, and changes during cycling in rope load-extension, hysteresis, and residual properties.
Low, Medium, and High Temperature Catalysts for Formaldehyde-Free Durable Press Finishing by the Glyoxal-Glycol Process
Authors: Welch Clark M. , Peters Julie G.
Published: March 2008

Improved catalyst systems have been developed for use in the glyoxal-glycol process under a wide variety of curing conditions. The mild cure process, now conducted with polyethylene as fabric softener in place of the reactive hydrophobic silicones formerly required, takes place at 120-125°C in 2 minutes by aluminum sulfate catalysis in the presence of tartaric acid. Minor amounts of phosphoric acid are added as needed to counteract fabric alkalinity. The medium cure process at 145-160°C occurs within 15 seconds with the same catalyst and activators in the presence of aluminum dihydroxy acetate as buffer. The high temperature process uses aluminum chlorhydroxide as catalyst in the presence of an α-hydroxy acid, and takes place at 170°C or higher. In all three systems, 1,6-hexanediol is the preferred glycol from the standpoint of durable press performance, fabric strength retention, and fabric whiteness.
Measuring and Interpreting Low-Stress Fabric Mechanical and Surface Properties
Authors: Mahar T.J. , Dhingra R.C. , Postle R.
Published: March 2008

The results of an extensive study are reported involving the variability of measuring low-stress fabric mechanical and surface properties for a range of 30 wool and wool blend suiting fabrics. Seven sets of KESF instruments were used for the interlaboratory tests in Australia, Japan, Germany, the United Kingdom, New Zealand, and the Peo ple's Republic of China. Values are given for the repeatability and reproducibility of 37 parameters and ratios characterizing the elastic and inelastic components of fabric deformation in tension, shear, bending, and lateral compression, as well as fabric surface behavior, that is, surface topography and friction. Measurement precision is also specified in terms of the maximum error for these parameters. The variance of the measurements is quoted in terms of its within-laboratory, between-laboratory, and specimen-laboratory interaction components. Recommendations are made for both the in-house product and process development situations (within laboratory) and for specifications for commercial transactions (between laboratory) as to the number of tests that should be performed in order to achieve a given level of precision. Though varying numbers of tests are recommended for some parameters, a general rule of three tests per sample may be taken as a guide.
Effect of Different Let-off Mechanisms on Fabric Formation and Dimension of Fabric in the Loom
Authors: Basu A.K.
Published: March 2008

This paper presents an analysis of the crimp-making forces and the forces required to locate the picks in their proper positions within the cloth-fell region at the moment of beat-up and after beat-up. These forces and certain factors inherent in the process of fabric formation affect the dimensions of a particular fabric. The factors considered in this paper are closed shed warp tension, warp tension at the moment of beat-up, weaving resistance, and the effect of these on the dimensions of fabric produced in a Hattersley loom fitted with semi-positive and WIRA/Poole fully positive let-off devices. The uniformity of the fabric dimensions is discussed with respect to the warp and weft thread spacings obtained in the loom state using the two let-off mechanisms. The effect of weft unwinding tension is also considered. There is little to choose between the two let-off systems when considering the control of fabric dimensions: both systems produce irregularities in the dimensions of the fabric. The effect of warp tension changes is more critical when weaving with the WIRA/Poole roller than with the Hattersley semi-positive let-off device. The findings clearly demonstrate the influence of the warp elastic constant on the dynamic forces and, finally, on the dimensions of the fabric. There is no significant effect of changes in the weft tension on the forces and the fabric dimensions.
Perception and Control of Fabric Streaks
Authors: Makansi M.
Published: March 2008

In Part I of this series, we developed a simplified theoretical mathematical model to predict streak and barré intensities in fabrics from yarn properties varying individ ually or collectively. In this paper, we successfully test the model predictions against subjective streak intensity ratings obtained on test fabrics in two colors in which dark and light bands were created by implanting ends varying in properties and number by predetermined amounts. The subjective ratings correlate well with model predictions in spite of a large number of variables and their interactions.
Mechanism of Loop Formation at Extreme Cam Settings on a Sinker Top Machine
Authors: Banerjee P.K. , Alaiban T.S.
Published: March 2008

Rotor spun cotton yarns of various counts were knitted on a Krenzler TK-1 using cylinders of different gauges under predetermined processing conditions using extreme cam setting values. Data on the loop length of the resultant dry-relaxed fabrics were used to generate relationships between yam count, gauge of sinker top machines, and range of tightness factors of the resulting fabrics. Thus it is possible to select combi nations of yarn linear density and machine gauge objectively.
Mercerized and Crosslinked Cotton Yarns
Authors: Pandey S.N. , Nair P.
Published: March 2008

The effect of varying degrees of stretch on various cotton yarn properties during mercerization was studied. Scoured cotton yarns were slack mercerized in an aqueous solution of caustic soda, then restretched to 90%, 94%, 96%, 100%, and 103% of the original lengths. There was a considerable increase in strength and a decrease in elon gation. Mercerized and scoured yams were subjected to a crosslinking treatment with formaldehyde using the Form W and D processes. The mercerized yarns had a higher formaldehyde content but retained higher strength compared to scoured crosslinked yarn for both crosslinking processes. The mercerized yarn samples stretched to 103% showed the highest strength retention values after crosslinking for both the processes compared to other yams. The scoured yams crosslinked by the Form D bath process showed very low tenacity retention (42%), while the yam mercerized and stretched to 103% showed very high tenacity retention (90%). The relationships between strength and various other properties are also discussed. The higher retention of tenacity in mercerized crosslinked yam is attributed to the removal of weak points present in cotton and the more uniform structure capable of distributing stress along the fibers.
A Study of Wool Carbonizing
Authors: Wu Zhao  , Pailthorpe M.T.
Published: March 2008

The surface barrier effect in dyeing carbonized wools was examined by dyeing various carbonized wools with CI acid red 1 at 25°C. Free acid is more evenly distributed on the surface of the wool fibers in rapid carbonizing than in conventional carbonizing. This free acid sulfates the surface layer of the wool during rapid carbonizing without increasing the permeability of the cuticle layer to dye. The distribution of the bound sulfate between the cuticle layer and the fiber bulk was also determined. Conventionally carbonized wool has 76% of its sulfate content in the surface layer, while rapidly carbonized wool has about 40% of its sulfate in the surface layer. Rapid carbonizing would appear to be an effective method of introducing a uniform dye resist effect into wool and would thereby greatly improve the level dyeing properties of carbonized wool.
Extension Due to Chain Slippage in Textile Fibers
Authors: Nachane R.P. , Hussain G.F.S.
Published: March 2008

This article tries to explain the differences in dynamic and static moduli. A math ematical expression is derived to estimate the amount of extension taking place in a fiber due to slippage of molecular segments when subjected to stress. Experimental results on viscose, polyester, and nylon filament yams verify the predictions of the proposed theory.
Agent and Finish Stability in Durable Press Processing of Cotton Fabrics Indicated by Formaldehyde Release
Authors: Reinhardt Robert M. , Kottes Andrews B.A.
Published: March 2008

Stability of agent and finish was studied during the various steps in durable press processing of cotton fabrics. Determinations of formaldehyde release from the fabric at different stages of treatment were used to assess stabilities and decompositions. These determinations were supplemented with information gained from measuring transport of free formaldehyde from some of the solutions used. The influences of agent and catalyst types, concentrations, presence of excess formaldehyde, inclusion of scavengers or additives, as well as variations in treatment conditions, were inves tigated. The results provide further clarification of the relationships between stability/ decomposition factors and formaldehyde release along pathways of durable press pro cessing.
Thermomechanical Analysis of the Stress History in Heat Set Nylon 6 Carpet Yarns
Authors: Dennis L.A. , Buchanan D.R.
Published: March 2008

Tension effects during a commercial heat setting process were investigated through the analysis of the thermomechanical behavior of heat set nylon 6 carpet yarns. The stress history of these yarns was modified by altering the yarn tension level at various positions along the Superba continuous heat setting process. Changes in fiber structure and morphology were characterized by mechanical testing, shrinkage measurements, differential scanning calorimetry, and thermal stress analysis.

A model based on the hypothesis that there are two domains of molecular order that respond differently to the effects of stress, such that structural and morphological changes proceed via two distinct mechanisms, was fit to the experimental shrinkage force-temperature curves and described the experimental curves very well. Changes in the calculated curve parameters were highly correlated with the observed changes in shrinkage and initial moduli. Each of these changes was a function of the tension state of the nylon 6 yarns during the heat setting process. Analysis of the shrinkage force curves and their characteristic parameters showed that this technique is capable of identifying subtle variations in fiber microstructure and therefore has significant applications to the identification of stress history differences in heat set fibers and yams.
In-Plane Flow of Fluids in Fabrics: Structure/Flow Characterization
Authors: Adams Kurt L. , Rebenfeld Ludwig
Published: March 2008

A technique that quantifies the in-plane flow properties of fibrous networks is pre sented. A radial flow geometry allows the simultaneous study of more than one in- plane flow direction. The shape and position of a radially advancing fluid front define directional permeabilities in the plane, which can be used to compare structurally different fibrous networks. Confirmatory studies reinforce the method of data analysis and show that the directional permeabilities are independent of driving pressure, fluid viscosity, and fiber surface wettability properties. The methodology was applied to the study of multilayer assemblies. The in-plane flow of fluids in heterogeneous multilayer constructions is governed by the high permeability layer. A transverse flow mechanism is proposed as being responsible for filling the low permeability layers and, therefore, the transverse permeability is coupled into this flow process.
1,3,-Dioxolane, An Alternative to Formalin as a Standard for Formaldehyde
Authors: Andrews B.A. Kottes
Published: March 2008

Four potential primary standards for formaldehyde were evaluated as replacements for the formalin usually used with colorimetric reagents in analyzing textiles for form aldehyde. Of the four—sodium formaldehyde bisulfite, hexamethylenetetramine, tet raoxane, and 1,3,—dioxolane—only 1,3,-dioxolane yielded the stoichiometric amount of formaldehyde under relatively mild conditions of hydrolysis. 1,3,-Dioxolane can be hydrolyzed in 6N HCl for four hours to produce one mole of formaldehyde per mole of 1,3,-dioxolane. Stabilities of standard formaldehyde solutions from 1,3,-diox olane were compared with those from formalin, and there is a discussion of 1,3, dioxolane-based formaldehyde solutions used to prepare calibration curves of several colorimetric reagents for formaldehyde.
A Rapid and Sensitive Method for Evaluating Wool Damage in Carbonizing
Authors: Wang C. , Pailthorpe M.T.
Published: March 2008

Damage caused to wool in the carbonizing process can be assessed by methods such as alkali solubility or by determining the loss in tensile strength of the yarns and fabrics so produced. These tests are reliable and reproducible, but they are time consuming and provide a result some five or more hours after the process is complete. It is then too late to adjust the process variables so as to minimize the damage to the wool. A rapid and sensitive test is described, which is based on the ninhydrin reaction with peptides and is able to measure the damage within only 10 minutes of sampling the carbonized wool immediately after baking. The results correlate well with both alkali solubility and tensile strength test methods. The new test procedure allows for the possibility of an "on-line" method of controlling damage in the wool carbonizing process.
Comparison of Cotton/Polyester Core and Staple Blend Yarns and Fabrics
Authors: Ruppenicker G.F. , Harper R.J. , Sawhney A.P. , Robert K.Q.
Published: March 2008

Cotton wrapped polyester core yams produced on a modified ring spinning frame were compared with yams spun from staple fiber blends. The yams contained ap proximately 70% cotton and 30% polyester. Yarns and fabrics made from both regular and high tenaeity polyesters were evaluated. Fabrics produced from the core yams were stronger and more durable than those of the staple blends, and they maintained their superiority in these properties through wet processing and resin .finishing. Other advantages of the core-yam fabrics included better cover and abrasion resistance.
Modeling Woven Fabric Tensile Strength Using Statistical Bundle Theory
Authors: Shahpurwala A.A. , Schwartz P.
Published: March 2008

Previous statistical models, developed to predict the strength of loose fiber bundles and composite materials, have been applied to the problem of predicting the tensile strength of woven fabrics when the underlying strength distributions of the warp and weft threads are known. The woven fabric was first assumed to act as a single loose bundle of threads with no thread interactions (equal load sharing), and Daniels' model was applied. In the second stage, a more complex chain-of-bundles model, which provides a method to take interactions into account, was then used. With this model, the effect of interactions due to interyarn friction and thread crimp can be seen in the number of sub-bundles forming the chain. The length of each of these sub-bundles, called the "overload length," is a measure of the influence of the crossing threads. Finally, a third refinement that accounts for interactions through localized, non-equal load sharing among yams was used.

Experiments were performed using four different fabrics—three cotton fabrics of plain, twill, and satin construction, and one 100% polyester fabric of plain construc tion—to determine the applicability of the models. Warp and weft yams were extracted from the fabrics and tested in tension. The strength data for these yams were fitted to a two-parameter Weibull distribution using the method of maximum likelihood. The simple loose bundle model consistently underestimated the fabric strength, although the predicted values were generally better for the fabrics with longer float lengths, indicating that interyarn friction from the interlacings plays a positive role in fabric tensile strength. With the chain-of-bundles model, the ratio of the thread crimps is a predictor of the overall frictional effect. Localized load sharing results in a conservative approach, with the actual fabric properties falling between this and the simpler chain- of-bundles model incorporating equal load sharing.