bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Synthetic Genetic Arrays: Automation of Yeast Genetics
Authors: Kuzmin Elena , Costanzo Michael , Andrews Brenda , Boone Charles
Published: April 2016

Genome-sequencing efforts have led to great strides in the annotation of protein-coding genes and other genomic elements. The current challenge is to understand the functional role of each gene and how genes work together to modulate cellular processes. Genetic interactions define phenotypic relationships between genes and reveal the functional organization of a cell. Synthetic genetic array (SGA) methodology automates yeast genetics and enables large-scale and systematic mapping of genetic interaction networks in the budding yeast, Saccharomyces cerevisiae. SGA facilitates construction of an output array of double mutants from an input array of single mutants through a series of replica pinning steps. Subsequent analysis of genetic interactions from SGA-derived mutants relies on accurate quantification of colony size, which serves as a proxy for fitness. Since its development, SGA has given rise to a variety of other experimental approaches for functional profiling of the yeast genome and has been applied in a multitude of other contexts, such as genome-wide screens for synthetic dosage lethality and integration with high-content screening for systematic assessment of morphology defects. SGA-like strategies can also be implemented similarly in a number of other cell types and organisms, including Schizosaccharomyces pombe, Escherichia coli, Caenorhabditis elegans, and human cancer cell lines. The genetic networks emerging from these studies not only generate functional wiring diagrams but may also play a key role in our understanding of the complex relationship between genotype and phenotype.
High-Throughput Microscopy-Based Screening in Saccharomyces cerevisiae
Authors: Styles Erin B. , Friesen Helena , Boone Charles , Andrews Brenda J.
Published: April 2016

The budding yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae has served as the pioneer model organism for virtually all genome-scale methods, including genome sequencing, DNA microarrays, gene deletion collections, and a variety of proteomic platforms. Yeast has also provided a test-bed for the development of systematic fluorescence-based imaging screens to enable the analysis of protein localization and abundance in vivo. Especially important has been the integration of high-throughput microscopy with automated image-processing methods, which has allowed researchers to overcome issues associated with manual image analysis and acquire unbiased, quantitative data. Here we provide an introduction to automated imaging in budding yeast.
Simulation of FEL pulse length calculation with THz streaking method
Authors: Gorgisyan I. , Ischebeck R. , Prat E. , Reiche S. , Rivkin L. , Juranić P.
Published: April 2016

Having accurate and comprehensive photon diagnostics for the X-ray pulses delivered by free-electron laser (FEL) facilities is of utmost importance. Along with various parameters of the photon beam (such as photon energy, beam intensity,etc.), the pulse length measurements are particularly useful both for the machine operators to measure the beam parameters and monitor the stability of the machine performance, and for the users carrying out pump–probe experiments at such facilities to better understand their measurement results. One of the most promising pulse length measurement techniques used for photon diagnostics is the THz streak camera which is capable of simultaneously measuring the lengths of the photon pulses and their arrival times with respect to the pump laser. This work presents simulations of a THz streak camera performance. The simulation procedure utilizes FEL pulses with two different photon energies in hard and soft X-ray regions, respectively. It recreates the energy spectra of the photoelectrons produced by the photon pulses and streaks them by a single-cycle THz pulse. Following the pulse-retrieval procedure of the THz streak camera, the lengths were calculated from the streaked spectra. To validate the pulse length calculation procedure, the precision and the accuracy of the method were estimated for streaking configuration corresponding to previously performed experiments. The obtained results show that for the discussed setup the method is capable of measuring FEL pulses with about a femtosecond accuracy and precision.
New polymorphs of an old drug: conformational and synthon polymorphism of 5-nitrofurazone
Authors: Pogoda Dorota , Janczak Jan , Videnova-Adrabinska Veneta
Published: April 2016

Two new polymorphic forms of 5-nitrofurazone (5-nitro-2-furaldehyde semicarbazone) have been synthesized and structurally characterized by single-crystal and powder X-ray diffraction methods, vibrational spectroscopy (FT–IR and temperature Raman), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and Hirshfeld surface analysis. The compound crystallizes in three different polymorphic formsP21/a(polymorph α),P21(polymorph β) andP21/c(polymorph γ), the crystal structures of two of which (polymorphs β and γ) represent new structure determinations. The solid-state molecular organization in the three crystal forms is analyzed and discussed in terms of molecular conformation, crystal packing and hydrogen-bonded networks. All three crystals are formed fromtransgeometrical isomers, but the molecular conformation of the α-polymorph issyn–anti–anti–anti, while that of β- and γ-polymorphs issyn–anti–syn–syn. As a consequence of this the hydrogen-bond donor and acceptor sites of the molecules are oriented differently, which in turn results in different hydrogen-bond connectivity and packing patterns.
Molecular structure of diethylaminoalane in the solid state: an X-ray powder diffraction, DFT calculation and Raman spectroscopy study
Authors: Bernert Thomas , Ley Morten B. , Ruiz-Fuertes Javier , Fischer Michael , Felderhoff Michael , Weidenthaler Claudia
Published: April 2016

The crystal structure of diethylaminoalane, [H2Al—N(C2H5)2]2, was determined by X-ray powder diffraction in conjunction with DFT calculations. Diethylaminoalane crystallizes in the monoclinic space groupP21/cwitha= 7.4020 (2),b= 12.9663 (3),c= 7.2878 (2) Å and β = 90.660 (2)° at 293 K. The crystal structure was confirmed by DFT calculations and Raman spectroscopy. The molecular structure of diethylaminoalane consists of dimers of [H2Al—N(CH2CH3)2] in which an Al2N2four-membered ring is formed by a center of inversion. Such an arrangement of the aminoalane moieties in the crystal structure is well known for this class of compound, as shown by the comparison with ethylmethylaminoalane and diisopropylaminoalane.
The service learning projects: stakeholder benefits and potential class topics
Authors: Rutti Raina M. , LaBonte Joanne , Helms Marilyn Michelle , Hervani Aref Agahei , Sarkarat Sy
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to summarize the benefits of including a service learning project in college classes and focusses on benefits to all stakeholders, including students, community, and faculty.

Design/methodology/approach

– Using a snowball approach in academic databases as well as a nominal group technique to poll faculty, key topics for service learning across college disciplines are presented.

Findings

– Findings include a wide range of service learning projects across disciplines.

Research limitations/implications

– Areas for future research are identified to expand the service learning topic list as well as guide studies on the long-term benefit of service learning for each identified stakeholder.

Practical implications

– For new faculty or faculty new to service learning, the list of paper ideas is a good first step to identify projects. While not comprehensive, the list serves to stimulate topic ideas and fills a void in the service learning literature.

Social implications

– Service learning exists to provide real-world learning for students, but the projects provide benefits for community groups, agencies, and organizations. Societal benefits from the student effort are numerous and there are little or no costs to the agencies who participate.

Originality/value

– The abundance of service learning literature has studied learning across disciplines and has quantitatively and qualitatively presented benefits, but no studies have worked to compile project ideas across major college disciplines. This research addresses this issue and provides the key first step to implement the service learning pedagogy: the topic idea.
Does teaching ethics do any good?
Authors: Jonson Elizabeth Prior , McGuire Linda , Cooper Brian
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– This matched-pairs study of undergraduates at an Australian University investigates whether business ethics education has a positive effect on student ethical behaviour. The paper aims to discuss this issue.

Design/methodology/approach

– This study uses a matched-pairs design to look at responses before and after students have taken a semester-long unit in business ethics. The authors used ethical scenarios and analysed both the starting position and changes in responses for the total student group, and by gender and citizenship.

Findings

– The results from this matched-pairs study show ethics education has a limited impact on students’ responses to ethical dilemmas.

Practical implications

– Ethics subjects are now ubiquitous in business schools, but it may be time to consider alternatives to the philosophical normative teaching approach.

Originality/value

– This paper is significant in that it uses 142 matched pairs to look at responses before and after students have taken a semester-long unit in business ethics. This study provides qualified support for the proposition that business ethics education has an impact on students’ ethical decision making.
Increasing transparency is not always the panacea
Authors: De Vries Michiel , Sobis Iwona
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to argue that the analysis of corruption must distinguish between corruption in organizations where this kind of behaviour is widespread and corruption in organizations where it is rare, and must also distinguish between corruption as the outcome of an economic cost-benefit analysis and corruption induced by social-psychological factors.

Design/methodology/approach

– This is a conceptual paper.

Findings

– In order to be effective in combating corruption, a fit is needed with the main determinants of corrupt behaviour: first, at the individual level in which either personal morality, social or economic considerations are at stake; second, at the organizational level in which social-psychological factors might be determinative; and third, at the contextual level in which economic prosperity, the nature of the political system and cultural features are important.

Practical implications

– Especially in systems where corruption is widespread, policymakers could benefit from theories in social psychology to combat corruption.

Social implications

– To see corruption as the result of an individual cost-benefit analysis or as a lack of morality often misses the point in cases of widespread corruption.

Originality/value

– The paper points at the added value of social psychology approach to corruption as compared to the approaches at present dominant in public administration.
Transformational leadership and knowledge sharing
Authors: Han Seung Hyun , Seo Gaeun , Yoon Seung Won , Yoon Dong-Yeol
Published: April 2016

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to empirically examine the fundamental process through which transformational leaders play a significant role in employees’ knowledge sharing by investigating mediating roles of individual affects, particularly psychological empowerment, organizational commitment and organizational citizenship behavior (OCB).

Design/methodology/approach

Structural equation modeling, including confirmatory factor and path analysis, is conducted to test proposed hypothesis.

Findings

The results of this study indicate significant direct effects of transformational leadership on psychological empowerment, organizational commitment and OCB. Moreover, transformational leadership also shows an indirect effect on employees’ OCB, which, in turn, is identified as the primary factor that influences knowledge sharing. However, organizational commitment does not provide a significant influence on knowledge sharing. These findings highlight the importance of mediating roles, particularly OCB, to predict employees’ knowledge-sharing intention.

Originality/value

Identifying structural determinants of knowledge sharing is an important scholarly agenda. In particular, the mechanisms and processes by which leadership exerts influence to motivate employees to share knowledge deserve scholarly inquiry, and there, is a need for more research to understand the mechanisms and processes through which leadership influences individual motivation and attitudes toward pro-social behaviors, such as knowledge sharing.
Soft Computing Applications in Fabrics and Clothing: A Comprehensive Review
Authors: Majumdar Abhijit , Mitra Ashis , Banerjee Debamalya , Majumdar Prabal Kumar
Published: April 2016

This paper presents a comprehensive review of soft computing applications in the domain of fabrics and clothing. In the last two decades, soft computing techniques, such as artificial neural network, fuzzy logic and genetic algorithm, have been used abundantly for fabrics and clothing modelling, manufacturing, quality control and marketing. This review is aimed at presenting a compendium of research work done so far on the applications of soft computing techniques in fabrics and clothing science and engineering. In the beginning of the paper, a brief introduction of soft computing techniques is provided. Then, the applications of soft computing methods in fabric property modelling (tensile, bending, shear, drape, handle, comfort, thickness and compression, air permeability, porosity, etc.) are provided. In the subsequent sections, soft computing applications for fabric defect identification in static and dynamic conditions, fabric classification, fabric engineering, machine control and marketing, are discussed. The scope of future applications is included in the concluding section.
Study of the Tensile Properties of Jute / Cotton Blended Yarns Using Weibull Distributions
Authors: Xia Zhaopeng , Yu Jianyong , Cheng Longdi , Liu Lifang , Wang Feiyan
Published: April 2016

Jute fibre, a natural composite of cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin, occupies the second place to cotton in economic importance. Recently many attempts have been made to produce fine jute blended yarn with other textile fibres. In this paper, the two types of jute/cotton blended yarn whose jute and cotton fibres were respectively blended at the opening and drawing stages were spun by using the ring spinning technology. The tensile properties of both blended yarn at gauge lengths from 150 mm to 500 mm were investigated, and the evenness and imperfections for both blended yarn were also evaluated. The results show that the draw frame blended yarn was of better quality than the opener blended yarn. The breaking tenacities of both blended yarn increased with the decrease in the gauge length. The equations derived from two-parameter Weibull distribution and based on experimental strength at length of 300 mm can predict the breaking strength of both blended yarn accurately. The scale effect study indicates that the opener blended yarn strength decreased more sharply than draw frame blended yarn as the gauge length increased.
Application of Fourier Transform Attenuated Total Reflection Infrared Spectroscopy to Identifying Archaeological Fibres
Authors: Cao Qiuling , Zhu Sukang , Zhao Huijing , Tu Hengxian
Published: April 2016

There are many ways to identify fibres; however, since most of the tests are destructive or the sample preparation process is complex, most methods used to identify archaeological fibres have their limitations. Among the existing methods, Fourier Transform Attenuated Total Reflection Infrared (ATR-FTIR) technology is relatively simple, fast and non-destructive, and the results are more accurate and reliable. In this study, four samples of ancient Chinese fibre, yarn, and fabric were identified using ATR-FTIR technology. Spectra of fingerprints show that the characteristics of cotton, linen, and wool are clear. The spectra of archaeological cotton fibre and modern cotton fibre are compared and analyzed. The results show that as a non-destructive method for analyzing surface composition of materials, ATR-FTIR technology is suitable for the identification of archaeological fibres.
Finishing of Wool Fabrics with Metals Ions and Silver Nanoparticles to Acquire Antimicrobial and UV-Protection Properties
Authors: Abdel-Fattah Saleh , El-Khatib Eman , Kantouch Abdel Aziz , El-Zawawi Inas
Published: April 2016

Wool is a suitable medium for growing bacteria and fungi under favorable temperature and humidity conditions resulting in wool degradation and skin irritation or infections. Several investigations have been applied to impart antimicrobial finish of wool fabrics based on organic chemicals, but they are not environmental friendly. The present investigation aims to study the influence of treatment with metal ions of silver nitrate, cadmium chloride and copper sulphate penta hydrate as well as silver nanoparticles, by nanolayer condensation, on wool fabrics pretreated with phosphoric acid, for improvement of its properties. Wool treated with the aforementioned methods showed antimicrobial activity, UV-protection properties and improvement in conductivity. Changes in surface morphologies were also observed.
Effect of Yarn Wetting on Some Physical Properties of Polyamide 6 False-Twist Textured Yarn
Authors: Rahbar Ruhollah Semnani , Mojtahedi M.R.M. , Maroufi M. , Masoudian Z.
Published: April 2016

In the present work, the effect of water on some physical properties of false-twist textured polyamide 6 yarn was studied. A laboratory false-twist texturing machine was modified by a water bath in order to wet the feed yarn before entering the texturing zone. Polyamide 6
yarn was textured at the texturing speeds of 51, 85 and 119 m/min and twist levels of 2165, 2559 and 2954 turns per meter, with and without water bath. The properties of textured yarn in the aspects of crimp characteristic and tensile behavior were determined. The properties of wet textured yarn were also compared with normal (dry) textured yarn. The results show that the tensile and crimp property values of wet textured yarn are lower than those of normal (dry) textured yarn. Wetting of feed yarn changes the stability of twisting–untwisting process in false-twist texturing, and it seems that some fraction of twist is maintained in the final textured yarn. This residual twist results in non-bulky appearance of wet textured yarn.
Anthropometric Study of Young Indian Men for Garment Sizing
Authors: Gupta Deepti
Published: April 2016

The knowledge of anthropometric dimensions is necessary for the development of garment patterns. In countries like India, where retailing is expected to see an unprecedented growth in the next few years, the success or failure of a brand depends on the fit of clothing that is
offered to consumers. In this study, more than 500 college students from 18-26 years of age were measured. 29 body measurements were recorded and statistically analyzed for the development of upper- and lower-body garment patterns. The entire population was classified into 15 groups on the basis of height and weight which can serve as the basis of developing an accurate sizing system for ready-made garments.
Photochromic Textiles from Hybrid Silica Coating with Improved Photostability
Authors: Liu Xin , Cheng Tong , Parhizkar Marzieh , Wang Xungai , Lin Tong
Published: April 2016

Photochromic surface coating on textiles may create new fashion opportunities. It also enhances the ultraviolet (UV) protection ability of the coated products. In this study, a spirooxazine dye and a silane that bears a long alkyl chain have been used to produce hybrid
photochromic silica coatings on wool fabrics. Four stabilisers are added separately to the photochromic silica coatings to examine their influence on photostability and photochromic behaviour. It is found that the addition of UV stabilisers slightly reduces the photochromic response speed and photochromic absorption. However, the addition of UV stabilisers to the photochromic coating considerably improves the photochromic lifetime. Among the four UV stabilisers studied, the quencher results in the best improvement to photostability with the lowest reduction in photochromic absorption.
Characterization and Evaluation of Physico-Chemical Properties of Polymeric Fabrics Treated with UV/Ozone
Authors: Ibrahim S.F. , El-Zaher N.A , Micheal M.N.
Published: April 2016

Recently, much attention has been focused on using physical treatments for improving functional properties of polymeric fabrics since they have several useful advantages, such as non toxicity, soil release, improving physical properties and chemical reactivity of fabrics, avoiding environmental pollution resulting from chemical modification, etc. Hence, this article discusses the feasiblity and characterization of using UV/ozone treatments as a source of surface modification on the surface and bulk characteristics of various polymeric fabrics. Thus, pure cotton, pure polyester, and blend (cotton/polyester) fabrics are treated with UV/ozone for different periods of time (1,3,5,10,15, 20 and 60 minutes). The treated samples are examined and evaluated through various measurements involving the Fourier transform infrared spectra (FTIR) that provides evidence for the changes in the peak intensity values of different functional groups characterizing each fabric ,whiteness and yellowness indices, tensile strength, percentage elongation, and Young's modulus values, which are inversely related to the elacticity of the fabric. Moreover, the efficiency of this treatment process is tested by evaluating the dyeing characteristics by using two different dye classes which involve measuring dye up-take (K/S) values and light fastness assessments.
Multilayer Interlocked Woven Fabrics: Simulation of RTM Mold Filling Operation with Preform Permeability Properties
Authors: Padaki Naveen V , Alagirusamy R. , Deopura B.L. , Fangueiro R.
Published: April 2016

The simulation of resin flow during the resin transfer molding (RTM) process through multilayered textile fabric of known permeability and porosity has been attempted in this study. A simple three-dimensional computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulation model has been developed and the results of the simulation are compared with the experimental RTM resin flow through multilayer interlocked woven structures. A multiphase simulation model is observed to reasonably predict the time for RTM mold filling. Fabric structural influence in terms of an Interlacement Index (I) has significant influence on the resin flow behaviour of the multilayered preform. A higher I of the preform means a longer time to fill the mold in both the experimental and simulated results. Images of the simulated flow front has been compared with the experimental results and it is observed that not only the mold filling time, but also the area of resin flow in the multilayer perform, is influenced by a
fabric structural factor, I.
Improved Discrimination and Prediction of Drapability of Fabrics
Authors: Tandon Surinder , Matsudaira Mitsuo
Published: April 2016

A garment is regarded as desirable and beautiful if it covers the body with harmony and gracefulness. High drape, lightweight and soft handle fabrics are in demand, particularly for womenswear garments such as dresses, shirts, skirts, trousers and suits. Fabric drapability can
be measured by a number of drapemeters for different modes of drapability such as static, dynamic and revolving. It has been shown that the drape coefficients, Ds
, Dd
and Dr
, associated with these respective modes of drapability can be predicted from a combination of measurements from the KES-F system (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics).

In this paper we present the results of our studies on the prediction of drapability of lightweight wool fabrics, based on the KES-F system and drape coefficient predictive equations. It has been shown that the parameters Dr/Ds
and Dd/Ds
, called Indices of Drape Fluidity, Ir
and Id
, express the fluid drape behaviour better than Ds
, Dr
, D200
and Dd
. This is because they discriminate and predict the drapability of fabrics better. Ir
and Id
have higher CV% than the Dr
and Dd
data, and therefore represent greater relative dispersion in a fabric group for drape. Various drape parameters of a group of wool fabrics have been compared with the four groups of polyester Shingosen fabrics, namely, New Silky, New Worsted, Rayon Touch and Peach Face, which are recognised for their soft fluid drape.
Sustainable Product Service Systems: The New Frontier in Apparel Retailing?
Authors: Armstrong Cosette M. , Lang Chunmin
Published: April 2016

There is an inherent conflict of interest between the product developer and the need for improved environmental health, as material consumption in the apparel industry is synonymous with revenue. This paper aims to explore the potential of product service systems (PSS), an emerging business concept in the sustainable design milieu, as a conduit for dematerialization in the apparel industry. The potential to sell fewer material apparel products and more services designed to enhance or support those products is a viable alternative. The authors correlate design attributes that most often lead to the disposal of apparel with PSS concepts, which may dematerialize the supply chain while increasing consumer satisfaction. This discussion also has important implications for design education related to PSS. Thus, a conceptual model is presented to guide such. Apparel products remain important in today's consumer culture. However, PSS may offer a way to maintain this contribution without the harmful byproducts.
Consumer Acceptance of Sustainable Fashion in Germany
Authors: Eifler Christine , Diekamp Kirsten
Published: April 2016

This paper deals with the causes of the current low acceptance of sustainable fashion and textiles in Germany. In the academic debate a negative image of eco-clothing, which started to develop in the 1970s, is considered to be responsible for such unpopularity. The previous eco-clothing was notorious for its unfashionability and "eco-frumpy-look" and thus compromised its acceptance. In spite of ecological textile innovations and expanded ranges of clothing ranges, consumption of sustainable clothing has not improved in recent decades. The paper deals with the the image transformation of sustainable clothing and shows that today's consumers prefer clothes that are both fashionable and sustainable. Based on the results of our survey we discuss the shifting perception on sustainable clothing. The clichés of eco-clothing no longer apply, but there are new problems relevant to the production and consumption of sustainable clothing.
New Development for Combined Bioscouring and Bleaching of Cotton-Based Fabrics
Authors: Hebeish A. , Ramadan M. A. , Hashem M. , Sadek B. , Abdel-Hady M.
Published: April 2016

A thorough investigation into conditions appropriate for effecting combined eco-friendly scouring and bleaching of cotton based fabrics was undertaken. Loomstate cotton and blend fabrics were desized by α-amylase enzyme. Fabrics were the target for bioscouring using alkaline pectinase enzyme, bleaching by in-situ formed peracetic acid using TAED and H2O2 as well as concurrent bioscouring and bleaching which is considered by all means a new development. Also, practiced were the conventional scouring using NaOH followed by bleaching using H2O2 and other bleaching processes vis-à-vis the new current development. The comparison reveals unequivocally that the environmentally sound technology brought about by current development is by far the best. The new development involves a single-stage process for proper purification / preparation of cotton and blend fabrics . through removal of noncellulosic impurities and colouring matters . by padding the fabrics in a bath containing alkaline pectinase enzyme, TAED, H2O2, nonionic wetting agent and sodium silicate. In addition to the advantages related to major technical fabric properties, the new development is eco-friendly and reproducible, which advocates the new development for mill trials.
A Study of Soluble-Powdered Natural Dyes
Authors: Ngo J. S. K. , Ong W.F. , Ahmad F. B. , Bujang K. B.
Published: April 2016

This paper highlights an on-going study that produces soluble-powdered natural dye extracts from Sebangki barks (Neesia spp., Bomb.; Tristaniopsis spp., Myrt.), Engkerabai Paya leaves (Psychotria viridiflora Zoll. ex. Miq.) and Engkudu roots (Morinda citrifolia L.). These three natural colourants are typically used by the native Iban community in Sarawak to dye silk threads for Pua Kumbu weaving. The two primary objectives of this study are to convert natural dye extracts into soluble powder using solvent extraction and to formulate textile dyeing recipes with good colourfastness and lightfastness using powdered natural dyes extracts. The successful experiments show that distilled water and ethanol can be used as solvents to extract natural dyes from Neesia spp., Bomb.; Tristaniopsis spp., Myrt. barks, Morinda citrifolia L. roots, Psychotria viridiflora Zoll. ex. Miq. leaves. In addition, it is proven that the method of freeze drying is capable of converting liquid dye extracts into soluble powder.
Study of Novel Pregelled Starch for Sizing of Cotton Textiles
Authors: Mostafa Kh. M. , El-Sanabary A. A.
Published: April 2016

Several research and developmental work attempts have been made in this manuscript to synthesize what is called tailored polymeric materials with new characteristics based on pregelled starch through a number of processes which, in turn, entail several chemical treatments. This is done by subjecting pregelled starch as a starting substrate to acid hydrolysis to obtain different molecular sizes. Pregelled starch with different molecular sizes are carbamoylethylated by using acrylamide and sodium hydroxide at different durations, then grafted with different monomers by using a potassium permanganate/citric acid redox system to initiate grafting. Furthermore, application of the newly tailored pregelled starch derived products as a sizing agent of cotton textiles is systematically studied. It is shown from the data that (a) the extent of carbamoylethylation expressed as N% increases by increasing the extent of hydrolysis and duration; (b) the graft yield expressed as mmol. monomer/100 g sample of different monomers onto carbamoylethylated and carbamoylethylated hydrolyzed pregelled starches increases by increasing the extent of carbamoylethylation and degree of hydrolysis, and follows the order: methacrylamide (MAam) > methacrylonitrile (MAN) > methacrylic acid (MAA), and (c) cotton fabrics sized with grafted carbamoylethylated hydrolyzed pregelled starch acquire higher mechanical properties, i.e. TS, elongation at break, and abrasion resistance values than hydrolyzed, carbamoylethylated and carbamoylethylated hydrolyzed pregelled starches. Finally, the use of the above tailored modified pregelled starch derived products in the sizing of cotton textiles contribute to reinforcement of the cotton textile after sizing to overcome the forced loss in fabrics/yarns during the spinning process as shown above.
Innovative Design of Polymeric Optical Fiber Fabric for Interior Textiles
Authors: Bai Zi-qian , Tan Jeanne
Published: April 2016

Polymeric optical fiber fabrics (POFFs) have been used in a wide range of applications, from smart clothing to medical products; therefore, it is interesting to note that there is a gap in the literature which explores the use of POFFs within the context of interior textiles. This research explores the use of illuminative interior textile surfaces as a multifunctional media that can enhance the interior environment via changes in colors, luminescence and surface design, and also act as a power-efficient light source for illumination. The development of POFFs involves several techniques, such as weaving, laser engraving, and integration of electronics. In order to obtain aesthetically pleasing surface designs and textures, and achieve favorable tactile quality, different materials are combined together. Surface printing and embroidery technologies are also adopted to enhance the surface pattern. A collection of life-sized photonic interior prototypes is created. The light sources of the prototypes are light emitting diodes (LEDs), which are considered energy saving and eco-friendly.
Improving Wool Printability at Reduced Energy using UV/ozone Treatment
Authors: Ibrahim S.F. , El-Nagar Kh. , Tera F.M.
Published: April 2016

This paper presents an eco-friendly method for wool fabrics to improve printing characteristics without thermal fixation via a UV/ozone pre-treatment. Such treatment causes surface morphological changes and oxidizes wool fabric surfaces. In this study, the changes in surface composition and chemistry induced by this treatment were followed by measuring changes in electron spin resonance (ESR) intensity values and mechanical properties, including tensile strength, elongation percentage and air permeability of the treated wool fabric samples. The pre-treated fabrics were printed and their colour strength (K/S) values with all colour parameters were measured. Fastness properties, such as colour fastness to light, washing and perspiration, were evaluated. Printability of the pre-treated fabrics was compared with that of the printed fabrics by conventional methods. The results showed that the UV/ozone treatment improved printing fixation of dye without energy consumption which is required by conventional methods. The UV/ozone treatment imparts highly printed shades of woolen fabrics at reduced energy with excellent fastness properties of the pre-treated printed fabrics.
A Combination of Glyoxal and Glycol as an Ecofriendly Crosslinking Agent for Cotton
Authors: Laga Prof. S.K. , Wasif Prof. Dr. A.I.
Published: April 2016

Textile finishing is the heart of textile processing. It aims to improve aesthetic appeal, dimensional stability, serviceability and alike. The object of resin finishing is to improve crease recovery. Conventional resin pre-condensates are effectively used for this purpose. Most of these resin pre-condensates are not eco friendly due to the presence of free or released formaldehyde. Due to eco awareness and green technology, it has been imperative to use eco-friendly crosslinking agents for resin finishing. Polycarboxylic acids like BTCA, PTA, etc. can be used as eco-friendly crosslinking agents. However, they are costly, and not easily available. Thus, an attempt has been made in the present study to explore the possibility of using a combination of glyoxal and glycol as a crosslinking agent at various concentrations to finish 100% cotton fabric. These treated fabric samples have been cured at various temperatures (1400C, 1500C & 1600C) for periods of 1, 2 and 3 min. Moreover, various formulations have been tested by using various additives, like PE, PEG-200, TEA, DEA, and their combinations, to improve the strength and the whiteness of finished fabrics. Various tests to determine crease recovery, strength, whiteness index, durable press rating, and bending length have been carried out to assess the quality of the finished fabric. Very encouraging results in terms of dry crease recovery angle, bending length, % strength retention and durable press rating have been obtained.
Consumer Perceptions the Limited Lifespan of Fast Fashion Apparel
Authors: Collett Miriam , Cluver Brigitte , Chen Hsiou-Lien
Published: April 2016

Little research has focused on the specific factors that contribute to the short lifecycle of fast fashion, as well as consumer feelings about the limited lifespan of fast fashion. The present research addresses this gap in the existing research. Thirteen female undergraduate students who are consumers of fast fashion and majoring in design and/or merchandising management have been interviewed. The first objective is to understand the factors that prompt consumers to stop wearing fast fashion apparel. These factors include communicative failure of the garments, including quality issues, fit issues and meaning conflict, as well as boredom. The second objective is to understand how these factors change the feelings of consumers about such items. The findings are explained within the context of the symbolic interaction theory. The third objective is to learn how consumers feel about the limited lifespan of fast fashion apparel. These feelings range from neutral to negative with regards to monetary investment, and positive to negative in terms of social and environmental implications. Based on the findings, a model is developed to describe why consumers purchase fast fashion, stop wearing fast fashion, their perceptions of the social implications, and their coping strategies and justification for fast fashion.
Developing a Sustainable Textile / Clothing Supply Chain by Selecting Relevant Materials and Suppliers
Authors: Zeng Xianyi , Rabenasolo Besoa
Published: April 2016

The modern textile/clothing industry is facing a great number of challenges related to sustainability. These challenges include environmental disasters and hazards to human health caused by toxic materials, resource exhaustion (water, energy, raw materials), and social impacts caused by delocalization, counterfeiting and other elements. In order to develop the industry in a sustainable and optimal way when producing new textile products, industrial companies need to optimize their production organization by minimizing risks not only at levels of materials and processes but also in the whole international textile supply chain. In this paper, a method is proposed for developing a sustainable textile supply chain by selecting the most relevant materials and suppliers. The criteria of sustainable development include environment protection, recycling capacity, energy saving, human health and safety, and social impacts. Some evaluation criteria have been normalized by recognized international organizations. The method of data aggregation with multiple fuzzy criteria is applied in order to select the most appropriate textile material and its supplier. A new method combining expert knowledge of enterprise strategy and sensitivity criteria is used for determining the linguistic weights of these fuzzy criteria. In the proposed method, the aggregated evaluation index takes into account the criteria of sustainable development and the specific application context as well as company strategies for management of supply chains.
Consumer Acceptance of Sustainable Design Strategy for Reducing Raw Material without Sacrificing Style Variety
Authors: Ng Roger , Yan Sunny , Dong Lin
Published: April 2016

The fashion industry is facing environmental sustainability issues. Among the principles of the "4Rs", namely, "reduce," "recycle," "reuse," and "renew," the reducing of the demand for raw material and manufacturing of garments is a better potential candidate of success because the recycling, reusing and renewing of used garments or textiles typically involve another form of energy usage, such as manpower or chemicals rather than efforts put forth by consumers. Naturally, consumers prefer to save the planet without any sacrifice on their part. In this article, a solution is proposed to reduce the usage of raw material while maintaining the same level of choice for fashion styles. The central idea of the solution is based on the fact that a piece of garment is made up of components. New styles can be created if these components are replaced. In theory, such a solution is technically feasible. However, if consumers are not ready to adopt this solution or unwilling to pay higher prices, the proposed solution cannot be commercially implemented. A feasible market segment has been identified and their willingness to spend is reported. Finally, the concerns of the proposed solution will also be discussed with a future plan.
Modified analytical model of magnetohydrodynamics angular rate sensor for low-frequency compensation
Authors: Ji Yue , Li Xingfei , Wu Tengfei , Chen Cheng
Published: April 2016

Purpose

Magnetohydrodynamics angular regular sensor (MHD ARS) has been used in many applications for its low noise in wide bandwidth, impact resistance and low power consumption; however, it is unable to estimate the angular velocity at low frequencies such as below 1 Hz. It is difficult to design compensation methods without an exact model. The aim of this study is to investigate a more exact analytical model characterization of the sensor’s frequency response, especially at a low-frequency zone.

Design/methodology/approach

A correction coefficient of electromagnetic force in simplified MHD ARS model was introduced according to the theoretical analysis of MHD flow and it was obtained by numerical simulation of electromagnetic force varying with time, space structure and frequency.

Findings

To make comparison, the transfer function of the designed MHD ARS in the experiment was identified using Gauss–Newton method with reasonable weights. The identification results confirmed the analytical model. Furthermore, a digital filter was designed based on the analytical model, and the compensation results showed that the frequency limit at low-frequency side was extended from 1 to 0.01 Hz.

Originality/value

The modified analytical model can describe the MHD ARS’s frequency response exactly and may be applied in its low-frequency compensation.
Surge detecting with a spherical sensor
Authors: Tang Zhijie , Luo Qian , Leng Xinnan , Liu Pinglong , Luo Jun
Published: April 2016

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to design a spherical sensor which can detect the surge from various directions to lay the foundation of the research of surge.

Design/methodology/approach

This paper designed a spherical sensor to detect the impact force generated by the surge. To realize the depth and stability control of the shallow underwater vehicles, it is necessary to do research and analysis on the surge in shallow waters. The spherical sensor with novel structure was skillfully composed of 24 cantilever beam pressure-type strain sensors. It is powerful to detect the surge from various directions simultaneously.

Findings

It is proved that the spherical sensor can accurately collect the surge data from multiple directions through experiments, which laid the foundation of the anti-surge study.

Research limitations/implications

Surge is not a new topic. But there is no effective tool to detect surge. The research of this paper is an attempt to provide an available tool to analyze surge. The research limitation is that the pool where the spherical sensor is installed is a little small. In the future, a bigger pool can be used.

Practical implications

A deep and comprehensive analysis of surge can be conducted according to the surge data detected by the spherical sensor to achieve the essential features of surge. This lays the foundation for the accurate control of Autonomous Underwater Vehicles (AUVs), especially fixed depth and stability control.

Social implications

As the control accuracy of AUVs increases, the AUVs can perform much more difficult tasks such as port monitoring, underwater salvaging, underwater pipeline maintenance and so on. These can be applied in commercial applications or in the national defense of many countries.

Originality/value

A novel spherical sensor using 24 cantilever beam pressure-type strain sensors to detect the surge was designed. The spherical sensor was installed in the physical surge simulator to collect surge data and conduct an analysis of the collected data.
Lab-on-a-chip and other miniaturised analytical instruments
Authors: Bogue Robert
Published: April 2016

Purpose

This paper aims to provide details of miniaturised analytical instrument technologies and developments.

Design/methodology/approach

Following an introduction and historical background, this first considers miniaturised chromatographs and spectrometers based on micro-electromechanical system (MEMS)/micro total analytical system technologies. It then discusses lab-on-a-chip developments with an emphasis on capillary electrophoresis. Developments in the emerging lab-on-paper technology are then considered and are followed by brief concluding comments.

Findings

This shows that many classes of analytical instruments which offer a number of operational and economic benefits have been miniaturised through the use of microfabrication and other technologies. They are an active field of research and are based on silicon, glass, polymers and even paper and are underpinned by developments in microfluidics and optofluidics and fabrication techniques which include lithography, MEMS and micro-opto-electromechanical system.

Originality/value

This provides an insight into the rapidly developing field of miniaturised analytical instrument technologies.
SMALL DATA
Authors: Johnston Anna
Published: April 2016

Opportunities in bite‐sized numbers
BEYOND BIG DATA
Authors: Birkinshaw Julian
Published: April 2016

Are we heading for analysis paralysis? Julian Birkinshaw says we need smarter questions
CROP CIRCLES
Authors: Ramdas Kamalini
Published: April 2016

Expanding farmers' access to price data transforms production, says Kamalini Ramdas
MEASURING UP
Authors: Goddard Jules , Whiteley Philip
Published: April 2016

It's time for braver accounting, say Jules Goddard and Philip Whiteley
WOULD YOU CREDIT IT
Authors: Begley Taylor
Published: April 2016

Pushing for a higher rating can be harmful, says Taylor Begley
TURN YOUR INDUSTRY UPSIDE DOWN
Authors: Mullins John , Ersek Barret , Keller Eileen Weisenbach
Published: April 2016

Turn your industry upside‐down by flouting the rules, say LBS's John Mullins and co‐authors Barrett Ersek and Eileen Weisenbach Keller
TRANSLATING STRATEGY INTO RESULTS
Authors: Homkes Rebecca
Published: April 2016

Rebecca Homkes demystifies strategy execution and suggests an approach for improving results
OFFICE SPACE
Authors: Mackenzie Annette
Published: April 2016

Alessandra Basso, Worldwide Customer Relationship Manager for Italian luxury fashion house Fendi, describes her workspace
STARTING A NEW CHAPTER
Authors: Mackenzie Annette
Published: April 2016

The new head of America's Barnes & Noble book chain, Ron Boire is pleased to be somewhere where he loves the people, the culture and the product
MY DAY
Authors: Morris Rob
Published: April 2016

From cadets to colleagues and captains of industry, Paul Kahn engineers a lot into one working day as President of Airbus Group UK
Components of a Moral Economy: Interest, Credit, and Debt in Haiti's Transnational Health Care System
Authors: Minn Pierre
Published: April 2016

The concept of “moral economy” has garnered the attention of anthropologists for its juxtaposition of two central dimensions of human experience that are often treated as distinct realms. However, the concept's analytic potential remains limited, in part because of the challenges in identifying what specifically a moral economy might comprise or entail. I suggest that articulating components of moral economies—in this case interest, credit, and debt—brings into relief some of the more subtle features of social processes that involve diverse resources, transfers, and calculations. Specifically, I use this approach to examine the provision of health services in Haiti by foreign clinicians and the emigration of Haitian health professionals, drawing on ethnographic research conducted in and around the city of Cap‐Haïtien. I illustrate how moral economies exist through actions, experiences, and representations, and I shed light on less conspicuous dimensions of international medical interventions, humanitarianism, and “brain drain.”