bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
New Amino Acids in Alkali‐treated Wool
Authors: ASQUITH R. S. , GARCIAA‐DOMINGUEZ J. J.
Published: July 2010

Examination of alkali‐treated wool has indicated the presence of one amino acid, β‐aminoalanine, not previously reported. 2,4‐Diaminobutyric acid was also formed during fractionation of the wool. The possibility of the former occurring as a crosslink in alkali‐treated wool and the feasibility of detecting crosslinks by keratose fractionation are discussed. A method for estimation of β‐aminoalanine in protein hydrolysates is reported.
Yellowing of Wool Keratin on Exposure to Ultraviolet Radiation
Authors: ASQUITH R. S. , BROOKE K. E.
Published: July 2010

An apparatus has been designed to investigate the rate of yellowing of proteins on exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Amino acids were exposed in solution, the rate of yellowing was measured and the decomposition products were investigated. Various protein fractions from wool have been similarly investigated, and conclusions have been drawn about the causes of yellowing. The pH of the solution has a considerable effect on the rate of yellowing. Peptide hydrolysis occurs on exposure.
Publications Sponsored by the Society's Identification of Dyes Committee—VII
Authors: JORDINSON F. , LOCKWOOD R.
Published: July 2010

The reactive systems in several newer types of reactive dyes are discussed briefly. Dyeings or prints of selected dyes in each range on cotton have been subjected to various tests designed to distinguish between the different chemical classes and to place them in their correct position in Clayton's Tables.
Stability to Aftertreatments of Wool Set in Thioglycollic Acid
Authors: ASQUITH R. S. , PURI A. K.
Published: July 2010

The set obtained on single wool fibres by treatment with thioglycollic acid has been shown to be unstable under normal soaping conditions. The effect of detergents on this set has been examined. Conclusions are drawn about the relative importance of disulphide crosslinks, hydrogen bonds and hydrophobic crosslinks in stabilising the set.
Sorption and Swelling of Dyed Wools I—Effect of Sulpho Groups on Water Sorption
Authors: Delmenico J. , Leeder J. D. , Trewhella M. A.
Published: July 2010

Water‐absorption isotherms of wool containing different amounts of one of a homologous series of dyes containing one to three sulpho groups were measured. Isotherms of the dyes alone were also measured. With all the dyes, there was a linear relation at constant relative humidity (r.h.) between water absorption and the amount of dye in the wool, up to the stoichiometric amount. The monosulphonated dye reduced the amount of water sorbed by blocking amino groups and, in addition, by physical exclusion of the water at high r.h. Some of the sulpho groups in the polysulphonated dyes were not blocked by amino groups and increased the amount of water sorbed at low r.h. However, at high r.h., large decreases were obtained because cohesive forces in the wool prevented swelling to accommodate the large potential water‐binding capacity of the free polysulphonated dyes, and the ‘volume exclusion’ effect was predominant. The contribution of the individual sulpho groups and other quantitative aspects to the sorption of water by the wool are discussed.
Photodegradation of Cotton Cellulose
Authors: Baugh P. J. , Phillips G. O. , Worthington N. W.
Published: July 2010

The relation between the fading and phototendering behaviour of Caledon Yellow GN, 5GK and 4G on cotton cellulose has been examined. A distinction is drawn between the reactions promoted by visible light and those promoted by ultraviolet radiation. Caledon Yellow 5GK is the most efficient phototenderer in visible light and production of the leuco dye accompanies this process. Phototendering by this mechanism can also be identified with Caledon Yellow GN, although to a much smaller extent than with 5GK, and production of the leuco form is accompanied by formation of free radicals. Regeneration of the original dye is best promoted by an atmosphere of moist oxygen. Excitation by short‐ultraviolet radiation leads to irreversible chemical changes in the dyes and degradation of the cellulose. The most efficient phototenderer in visible light (Caledon Yellow 5GK) markedly inhibits the degradation of cotton by ultraviolet radiation, whereas the poor phototenderers in visible light (Caledon Yellow 4G and GN) exert no such marked protection. The mechanisms of these reactions are discussed. Hydrogen abstraction by the excited non‐aggregated dye is the most probable path to the leuco dye and photodegradation in visible light, and the mechanism is thus comparable with the mechanisms elucidated for anthraquinone compounds in solution and on cellulose. Electronic‐energy transfer to the cellulose, in competition with the abstraction process, would be favoured during ultraviolet irradiation, and is the mechanism suggested for the degradation of cellulose under these conditions. The influence of dye aggregation on the reactions and the mechanism of the irreversible chemical changes in the dyes are also discussed.
A Comparison of the Kubelka‐Munk Reflectance with the Exact Reflectance for Isotropic Scattering
Authors: Hudson N. E. , Bridgeman T.
Published: July 2010

For a medium that scatters isotropically, the exact reflectance, for a variety of distributions of incident light, is compared with the Kubelka‐Munk reflectance. It is shown that, although the Kubelka‐Munk reflectance is not identical to the exact reflectance forany incident light, it does have a good correlation with the reflectance produced by a single beam incident at 63d̀ to the surface normal.
Synthesis and Electronic Spectra of some 4–Aminoazobenzenes
Authors: BRIDGEMAN I. , PETERS A. T.
Published: July 2010

The synthesis of a range of monoazo disperse dyes prepared from monosubstituted anilines as the diazo components is reported The absorption maxima of the dyes are recorded, and shifts resulting from the effect of different substituents in both the diazo component and the coupling component are correlated with the nature of the substituent. The use of monosubstituted aniline; as diazo components, coupled to different TV–substituted anilines, can result in dyes with λDmax differing by about 100 nm.
Photofading of Rhodamine Dyes
Authors: Evans N. A.
Published: July 2010

Irradiation with sunlight of an aqueous solution of Rhodamine B (C.I. 45170) (I) produces several detectable products, two of which have been isolated and shown to be chloro‐Rhodamine B (V) and dichloro‐Rhodamine B (IV). These compounds are also obtained from the reaction of Rhodamine B with hydrogen peroxide and from acetone photosensitisation. A mechanism for their formation is proposed.
Research on the Chroming of Diacromo Dyes
Authors: Marchi F. , Gatti G.
Published: July 2010

An attempt has been made to reduce the dyeing time with afterchrome dyes by eliminating the cooling step before afterchroming. This cooling is normally necessary to control the rate of chroming to obtain level dyeings. Other methods of control have been investigated, including the use of chromium fluoride rather than potassium dichromate. Triphenylmethane dyes containing salicylic acid groups can be chromed with chromium(III) at the boil, giving a brighter dyeing and a lower rate of chroming than when dichromate is employed. Salicylic acid azo and someoo′‐dihydroxyazo dyes can also be chromed with chromium(III) compounds, but the colours produced differ greatly from those obtained when dichromate is used. With other afterchrome dyes, such asoo′‐dihydroxyazo dyes, that have additional substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy] or amino groups capable of interaction with dichromate, the mechanisms of chroming with chromium(III) and chromium(VI) are different.
The Photochemical Decomposition of Aryldiazonium Salts I—Stability and Quantum Yields
Authors: Barraclough R. , Jones F. , Patterson D. , Tetlow A.
Published: July 2010

The photochemical decomposition of some aryldiazonium chlorides stabilised as zinc chloride double salts and incorporated in secondary cellulose acetate film has been studied by determining concentrations of residual salts after irradiation with a xenon‐arc lamp. Residual concentrations were measured by coupling the undecomposed diazonium salt to form coloured compounds, which were then estimated by visible‐light microspectrophotometry. Rates of fading for these salts indicate first‐order kinetics. Quantum yields are approximately 0–2, with the exception of those for p‐monoalkylamino derivatives, which are appreciably higher.
Acid Dye Diffusion in Solvent–assisted Dyeing
Authors: BUTCHER B. H. , CUSSLER E. L.
Published: July 2010

Rates of diffusion of Orange II into wool previously extracted with methanol and diethyl ether have been measured at 35°C and pH 7. 0 in the presence of a variety of organic solvents. In all cases studied, the presence of solvent decreases the rate of diffusion, which is found to be proportional to the total moles of solvent plus water in the fibre. The solvent can increase the uptake of this dye by wool if the wool is incompletely extracted.
Use of 2,4‐Dihydroxybenzophenone‐2‘‐ammonium Sulphonate to Prevent the Yellowing of Wool by Ultraviolet Radiation
Authors: Cegarra J. , Ribe J. , Miro P.
Published: July 2010

The use of 2,4‐dihydroxybenzophenone‐2′‐ammonium sulphonate (das) to prevent the yellowing of wool by ultraviolet radiation is discussed. The optimum conditions of application of this absorber to wool have been determined. The Yellowness Index, a measure of the degree of yellowing, was used to determine the effect of the concentration of das on its protective action against ultraviolet radiation. Exposure in a Xenotest apparatus indicated that initially bleaching occurred, followed by yellowing, which decreased with increase in the concentration of das. The washing and dry‐cleaning fastness properties of das on wool were assessed and the effect of dye on these properties was also determined, das has poor washing fastness, but this can be improved by mordanting the wool before treatment with das. This absorber does not significantly improve the light fastness of acid dyes on wool.
New Possibilities in the Dyeing of Wool
Authors: Herbulot Gilbert , Senez Claude
Published: July 2010

Meeting of the Scottish Region, held at Galashiels College of Technology, on 3 February 1972, Mr A. E. Edmondson in the chair The use of the auxiliary Unisol BT in the level and rapid dyeing of wool at 85–90d̀C, with no adverse effect on the properties of the fibres, is described. The dyeing of wool‐acrylic blends is also considered.
The Effect of Rate of Flow on the Sorption of Dye by a Nylon Fabric from Aqueous Solutions
Authors: MCGREGOR RALPH , NOUNOU A. E. , PETERS RAYMOND H.
Published: July 2010

The rate of sorption of an acid dye by a nylon fabric is strongly influenced by mass–transfer processes in the liquid phase, even at rates of flow far exceeding those to be expected in existing commercial dyeing equipment. It is suggested that concentration gradients exist in the solution within the yam elements of the fabric, and the individual fibres in the yarn elements are shown to differ in their accessibilities to dye; the yarn cross–sections are ‘ring–dyed’. In spite of these complexities the major features of the overall mass–transfer process are well represented by a simple model based on the concept of an equivalent diffusional boundary resistance to mass transfer. The numerical values obtained for δ are comparable with the yarn dimensions, which reflects the ‘coalescence’ of the individual boundary layers to form a region within the yarn elements in which dye transport by convective diffusion in the liquid phase limits the overall mass–transfer rates.
Structural Studies of Shrink‐resist Polymers for Wool: Polyisocyanates from a Polypropylene Oxide Triol and Different Di‐isocyanates
Authors: Guise G. Bruce , Rushforth Michael A.
Published: July 2010

Polyisocyanates were prepared from a polypropylene oxide triol (mol. wt 3000) and various di‐isocyanates, applied to wool fabrics, and moisture‐cured. The shrink‐resist effectiveness decreased as the rate of moisture curing of the poly‐isocyanate increased. The stability of the cured polymer to thermal‐ and photo‐degradation was much higher with polyisocyanates from aromatic than with those from aliphatic di‐isocyanates. The shrink‐resist effectiveness was reduced in the presence of catalysts. An explanation is proposed for the observed differences in shrink‐resist effectiveness based on differences in the extent of cross‐linking in the cured polymer.
Solid State Dimerization of a Styryl Disperse Dye
Authors: PETERS ARNOLD T. , WILD MALCOLM S.
Published: July 2010

During an investigation into structure‐property relationships of a series of ethyl‐α‐cyano‐4‐aminocinnamate disperse dyes, the 4‐(N‐β‐cyanoethyl‐N‐β‐acetoxyethyl) amino derivative showed anomalous behaviour on attempts to purify it. This compound was shown to be susceptible to dimerization to a colourless cyclobutane derivative, the structure of which was established by nmr spectroscopy. The dimerization is interpreted in terms of ‘Topochemical’ factors. Typical nmr spectra characteristics of some monomeric styryl disperse dyes are also indicated.
A Simple Technique for Dye Recipe Conversion I ‐ Replacement of Single Dyes
Authors: DUFF DAVID G. , McKINNON HECTOR
Published: July 2010

The replacement of existing dyes in a series of recipes may involve a tedious series of visual matchings for each colour. On the other hand, the process can be greatly speeded up by the use of electronic computer equipment. This paper describes a mathematically simple and reliable method, involving no sophisticated equipment, which allows the replacement of individual dyes in a series of colours dyed with levelling acid dyes on wool.
Comparison of Light Fastness Assessments with the Microscal (Mercury Vapour Illuminant) Light Fastness Tester and Xenon Arc Illumination
Authors: ADELMAN MORRICE , KITSON CHRISTOPHER J. , FORRESTER STANLEY D. , GILES CHARLES H. , HASLAM RONALD
Published: July 2010

Thirty‐five dyed fabrics, representing eleven different dye‐fibre combinations, have been tested for light fastness in the Microscal Light Fastness Tester, under illumination from the 400‐W mercury vapour lamp, and to a 1500‐Wxenon arc in a standard commercial machine. Evaluation of the results was made by a panel of nine observers, and mean gradings on the BSI scale were calculated. Alt but three of the dyeings gave ratings by the mercury lamp that were within three‐quarters of a grade of those by xenon illumination, 17 of them being within one‐quarter of a grade. The mercury lamp is therefore considered to be a satisfactory illuminant for commercial light‐fastness evaluation; it would offer very considerable economies in operation.

The three above‐mentioned (all vat) dyeings were rated lower by between 1.2 and 1.4 mean grades with mercury compared to xenon illumination. Reasons are given for a suggestion that traces of an oxidant remaining from the dyeing operations may have been responsible for the more rapid fading in the mercury lamp. There is a possibility therefore that the mercury lamp may be useful in detecting colorations that might show anomalously rapid fading outdoors where there is a large proportion of violet and near‐ultraviolet radiation.
The Anomalous Fading of Some Fluorescent Dyes and Brighteners on Hydrophilic Fibres
Authors: ANDERSON JOHN H. , GUISE G. BRUCE , RAMSAY G. CAIRD
Published: July 2010

The fastness to light of a number of fluorescent yellow dyes and fluorescent brightening agents (FBA) on several fibres at different concentrations has been assessed both visually and by colour‐difference measurements. One acid dye on wool, six FBA on wool and two FBA on cotton showed anomalous fading (i.e. the light fastness decreased with increasing concentration). Results of extraction experiments showed that this could be accounted for by the formation of coloured decomposition products from the dye or FBA and, with wool, from the fibre also. With FBA on wool and cotton there appears to be an optimum concentration above which both the fastness to light and the whiteness fall.
Behaviour of Bifunctional and Polyfunctional Reactive Dyes Applied to Cotton Cellulose
Authors: BETRABET S. M. , BAGWE V. B. , DARUWALLA E. H.
Published: July 2010

Analytical techniques, viz. electron microscopy, surface area determination, and swelling in cadoxen solvent, have been used to obtain results which provide positive evidence for the formation of crosslinks between adjacent cellulose chains in cotton dyed with different classes of bi‐ and poly‐functional reactive dyes. Reactive dyes selected include those where either the reactive groups are present in the same nucleus (dichlorotriazinyl, monomethoxymonochlorotriazinyl, dichloroquinoxaline, trichloropyrimidinyl and difluoromonochloropyrimidinyl) or where the two reactive groups are present at different positions in the dye molecule (Procion HE (ICI) and Procion Supra (ICI)). The extent of changes observed in the morphology of cotton fibre as a result of dyeing with bi‐ and poly‐functional reactive dyes has been found to depend on the amount of dye present in the fibre and the conditions of application.
The Use of SI Units
Authors: STEVENS C. B.
Published: July 2010

It is intended that, generally, the SI system of units shall be used in the Society's publications, in accordance with accepted rules. It is important to appreciate that SI units have evolved, that further additions and amendments may be made, and, particularly, that there is still lack of uniformity in interpretation and application of the system. It may be argued that the Society, through its Publications Committee, should take a lead in proposing and adopting one well‐considered procedure. On the other hand, it can be maintained that what is required is a clear exposition of the “state of the art”, and that it is this that the Society can and should provide to guide readers of its publications and contributors to them.

This paper, sponsored by the Publications Committee, is designed to serve as a guide to SI units and the use of the SI system. It owes its inception to MrR. Murphy of the Department of Industrial Chemistry, The Queen's University, Belfast. It was his “Notes on the Use of SI Units”, submitted to the Committee, which led to the decision that a more general paper on SI units should be produced. A large part of the information regarding SI equivalents for cgs (centimetre‐gram‐second) and ft‐lb‐sec (foot‐pound‐second) units is taken from his paper. The Committee is much indebted to him for this. It is also much obliged to him for the many helpful and instructive comments he made following very thorough reading of the paper in draft.
Dye Diffusion‐The Key to Efficient Coloration
Authors: DAWSON T. L. , TODD J. C.
Published: July 2010

This paper was presented to the Manchester Region on 14 December 1978, and to the West Riding Region on 22 February 1979.More than any other factor, the rate and degree of diffusion of dyes into the individual fibres composing any textile substrate control the productivity, reproducibility and the quality (with respect to appearance and sometimes the fastness properties) attained in each process. Using direct (fibre cross–section) measurement of the degree of penetration of dyes into nylon, polyester and acrylic fibres, under a variety of application conditions, the relationships between dye penetration and visual colour yield has been determined with fibres differing in cross–sectional shape and delustrant content.

The present interest in saving energy, time and water has led to numerous processes resulting in ‘ring–dyeing’. Batchwise dyeing for relatively short times or at somewhat abnormal temperatures, and continuous dyeing by rapid steam–fixation techniques are examples which have been investigated to define application conditions that might be expected to cause problems in bulk–scale production.
The Implications of Automation
Authors: KRASKE BERNHARD W.
Published: July 2010

This paper describes a computer‐controlled dyehouse* which was installed at Messrs Gütermann & Co. Ltd in 1969 and which has been running since that time, and reports on personal practical experience.

The substrate, its dyeing properties and the importance of these properties remaining constant are described. Subsequently, the dye and its inherent variations in strength are considered. Available types of energy and the continuity of their supply, as well as the magnitude of energy savings, are discussed. Included is a survey of machines and plants with comments on the material used, their wear and tear, and the cost of maintenance. Finally, the paper discusses colour measurement as a means of assessing satisfactory dyeings and at the very end comments on the main subject of automation — its effect on human beings.
Photochemical Decomposition of Some Triazine Reactive Dyes
Authors: HLADÍK VLADIMÍR , ŠVEC ZBYŇĚK
Published: July 2010

The photochemical degradation of some selected monoand di– chlorotriazine dyes – C. I. Reactive Orange 13, C. I. Reactive Orange 4, C. I. Reactive Yellow 2, C. I. Reactive Blue 4, C. I. Reactive Blue 5 – and starting compounds used for various applications to cotton are examined. The simple, exponential relationship between relative number of decomposed molecules and absorbed energy is verified. It is found that the structure of the base (chromophore)influences the tendency of a dye to exhibit photodegradation. The bases improve in fastness to light in the following order: base of CI. Reactive Orange 4 and Orange 13 > base of CI. Reactive Yellow 2 > base of C. I. Reactive Blue 4 and Blue 5. By linking the base to the reactive part of the molecule, an increase in resistance to photochemical degradation is brought about, in dependent of the number of reactive chlorine atoms. A covalent bond between the dye and the fibre may, in some cases (C. I. Reactive Yellow 2), cause a decrease in photodegradation.
The Use of Permethrin in New Insect Proofing Agents for Wool
Authors: Dodd G. D. , Carter S. W. , Patchett C. J.
Published: July 2010

The development and properties of the photostable pyre–throids are reviewed with reference to the use of permethrin for the protection of wool. An emulsifiable concentrate formulation (of this insecticide) – Perigen * – has been developed for use as an industrial mothproofer. The compound shows excellent fastness on wool and good biological activity against the major textile pests. The influence of dyebath pH, dyeing auxiliaries and duration of boiling in the dyebath on the application of the insecticide, is discussed. The low residue levels in effluent from dyebaths following application of Perigen are unlikely to pose any hazard during disposal. Application rates are given for Perigen as an insect–proofing agent for yarn destined for carpets and other products.
Mothproofing of Wool with Permethrin: Industrial, Environmental and Toxicological Aspects*
Authors: Byrne K. M. , Shaw T. , Shepley J. D.
Published: July 2010

Industrial trials carried out in three mills have confirmed the suitability of permethrin as a mothproofing agent for dye–bath application. Results are presented showing that permethrin is an effective and safe mothproofing agent and should present no undue hazard to dyehouse personnel nor to users of treated goods when used in the approved manner. It is also shown that effluent from mills can be processed satisfactorily. At concentrations substantially higher than those encountered in practice, permethrin has no adverse effect on effluent treatment processes, and taking into account normal dilution of mill effluent (with domestic effluent), the concentration of permethrin in the effluent from a sewage treatment plant is less than a value found to have no effect on juvenile rainbow trout.

Mothproofing agents are used mostly in the carpet sector, where high standards of wet fastness are not required. Tests carried out on permethrin–treated carpets after shampooing by three methods indicate that a minimum application level of 0. 02% on weight of fibre of permethrin can be recommended to protect a carpet against the common wool–damaging insect species.
Further Aspects of Bisulphite Setting of Wool Carpet Yarns in a Tape Scouring Machine
Authors: Forbes E. A. , Dittrich J. H. , Wemyss A. M. , White M.A.
Published: July 2010

The benefit of using a hot sodium perborate solution, as well as hot‐water rinsing, as a stabilizing treatment in the reductive setting of wool carpet yarn is minimal. Using a tape scouring machine, yarn should be treated with a solution prepared from sodium metabisulphite and adjusted to pH 7, followed by thorough rinsing with hot water, to set the twist. A bisulphite solution of pH 6 has poor pH stability at 85d̀C, but at pH 7 the pH is stable for at least 5 h. The bisulphite concentration decreases with time at both pH values at this temperature. The use of alternatives to sodium metabisulphite, e.g. monoethanolamine sulphite, needs careful consideration on a cost‐benefit basis. On a basis of equal SO2 content, the degree of set is similar with various compounds.
Determination of the Finish on Flame‐retarded Acrylic Fabrics by an Infra‐red Spectroscopic Reflection Technique
Authors: Pagés P , Ros J
Published: July 2010

The use of the f.m.i.r. technique in i.r. spectroscopy is proposed for the determination of the finish in flame‐retarded acrylic fabrics. The spectrum band occurring at 2250 cm‐1, which corresponds to the nitrite group, is used as an internal standard in the fabric/finish absorbance relationship and this enables the concentration of finish on different flame‐retarded specimens to be measured.
Crystal Data for C.I. Pigment Yellow 3
Authors: Whitaker A
Published: July 2010

The single‐crystal data and X‐ray powder pattern are reported for C.I. Pigment Yellow 3 (α‐[1‐hydroxyethyl‐idene] acet‐2‐chloro‐anilide‐α‐azo‐ [4′‐chloro‐2′‐nitrobenzene]). The powder pattern has been indexed from the single‐crystal unit cell dimensions; the problems of multiple indexing have been reduced by comparing the data obtained with single‐crystal intenstities.
The Use of Colour Physics in the Automation and Control of Package Dyeing
Authors: Gailey I
Published: July 2010

Presented to the Society's West Riding Region on 28 October 1982

The application of colour physics to the measurement of colour differences between production lots and colour standards is the starting point for any quantitative study of the technical and economic case for automating dyeing processes. It is also of prime importance in sustaining automated processes. Its purposes are:

1. Derivation of limits of accuracy that must be achieved for the successful outcome of any process

2. Assessment of the technical efficiency of a particular plant

3. Provision of basic data on the economies that can be achieved, and hence the amount of capital investment that can be justified

4. Monitoring of dyeworks performance to provide a convenient indication of the adjustments needed to obtain maximum plant performance

5. Derivation of basic data for recipe prediction, and redip and redye calculations

6. Provision of a self‐correcting, self‐learning capability to allow a colour physics installation to be adapted automatically as circumstances and dyeing conditions change.
The Use of Cationic Aftertreatmerit Agents to Improve the Water–fastness Properties of Sisal Dyed with Reactive Dyes
Authors: Baker D M , Canning A J , Maltby A
Published: July 2010

This paper reports the effectiveness of the application of some cationic fixing agents to certain reactive dyes on sisal fibres. The authors do not intend to imply that other suitable alternative agents are not available, nor that any commercially available product could not be equally effective when used for similar purposes.

Fixation of hydrolysed dichlorotriazinyl reactive dyes with eight cationic aftertreatment agents has been investigated for five Procion MX dyes on sisal at 2% shade. All eight agents fixed hydrolysed dye in cold rinsed, pad–batch–dyed sisal to give colours rated 4, 4–5 or 5 in water–fastness tests for the staining of cotton and wool. On the basis of effectiveness, cost and retention of light fastness. Fixing Agent IS is preferred. It can be used on the rural scale, eliminating the need for a boiling detergent wash.
Developments in the Application of Quantitative Structure‐Property Relationships of Dyes
Authors: Carpignano R , Savarino P , Barni E , Di Modica G , Papa S S
Published: July 2010

Presented at the 13th Congress of the International Federation of Associations of Textile Chemists and Colourists in London on 20 September 1984.

A major aim of current research in dye chemistry is the detection of quantitative relationships between structure and technical properties in order to design new compounds. In the study reported here the light fastness of a set of azo dyes was analysed by some of the methods of chemometrics.
Analysis of the electronic absorption spectrum of adsorbed layers of methylene blue
Authors: Kobayashi Michio , Maeda Yoshio , Hoshi Toshihiko , Okubo Jun , Tanizaki Yoshie
Published: July 2010

Electronic absorption spectra of methylene blue layers adsorbed on glass plates have been measured. Higher aggregates of this dye, up to the tetramer, are shown to exist by an analysis of the aggregate spectra on the basis of a three‐dimensional PPP calculation and a diagrammatic exciton‐splitting model. A shoulder, located around the monomer peak, observed in the spectrum of the adsorbed methylene blue layer is tentatively assigned to the tetramer. The observed spectral behaviour on aggregation is reproduced by the PPP calculation in which a sandwich type structure is assumed for the aggregates. The band splitting patterns in the methylene blue aggregates are explained diagrammatically in terms of the interactions of the transition moments of the monomer sub‐units in an aggregate.
1,4‐Dihydroxyanthraquinone‐2‐ethers and 2‐sulphones — yellow to orange dyes for synthetic‐polymer fibres
Authors: Peters A T , Soboyejo N O
Published: July 2010

Condensation of 2‐bromo‐1,4‐dihydroxyanthraquinone with alcohols and phenols affords the 2‐ether derivatives, which colour synthetic‐polymer fibres, particularly polyester, in yellow‐orange hues of good build‐up and light fastness. The influence of the 2‐ether substituent on the colour of these 1,2,4‐tri‐donor‐substituted anthraquinones is discussed, together with the relative influence of the electron acceptor 2‐sulphone substituent.
Structure‐property relationships in 1,2,4‐tri‐donor‐substituted anthraquinones — 2‐amino‐1,4‐dihydroxyanthraquinones
Authors: Peters A T , Soboyejo N O
Published: July 2010

Condensation of 2‐bromo‐, 2‐sulpho‐ or 2‐phenoxy‐1,4‐dihydroxyanthraquinone with primary or secondary amines affords a series of 2‐aminated derivatives. These compounds colour synthetic‐polymer fibres, particularly polyester, in red hues of good build‐up and fastness to light. Colour‐structure relationships of the dyes are discussed within the general context of substituent effects in 1,2,4‐tri‐donor‐substituted anthraquinones.
The effect of dye particles on the rub fastness of naphthol dyes
Authors: Suganuma Keiko
Published: July 2010

The effect of dye particles on the rub fastness of naphthol dyes has been investigated from the kinetic viewpoint. A measure of the rub fastness properties can be given by the rate constant and/or the equilibrium constant of a reversible first‐order reaction. The presence of granular dye particles increases these constants and lowers the rub fastness. On the other hand, needle‐shaped dye particles have little effect on these constants and do not lower the rub fastness.
Decolorising textile effluents
Authors: Steenken‐Richter Ingrid , Kermer W D
Published: July 2010

Amendments to the legislation on waste water are making the legal requirements for textile waste water more stringent. In addition to the limits on the metal content and the COD and AOX values, restrictions are also being placed on the colour of the effluent. Anionic dyes (e.g. reactive dyes and metal‐complex acid dyes) are removed from spent dye liquors by means of ion pair extraction by long‐chain amines. The effect of pH and the structure of the amine has been studied. In reactive dyeing such treatment reduces both the amount of colour and the AOX value. In the case of the metal‐complex dyes the removal of the (chelated) metal is of prime importance. The metal‐complex dyes can be recovered from the organic phase by extraction with caustic soda and then re‐employed in dyeing. The amines that result at the end of dye recovery are practically colourless and may be reused.
Radiation curing: tomorrow's technology today
Authors: Cockburn Eleanor , Holman Richard
Published: July 2010

The curing of coatings using radiation techniques rather than the traditional thermal method is becoming increasingly important in industry. In this article, the authors explain the processes used and the reasons for the rising significance of radcure technology.
Dyeing on the stage
Authors: Houlton Sarah
Published: July 2010

The Royal Shakespeare Company in Stratford‐upon‐Avon, in common with other theatre companies, has an extensive costume department that creates the clothes worn on stage. Part of this has an entire department devoted to dyeing. Intrigued by how different from the industrial dyehouse it would be, and how the dyeing fits into the costume‐making process, Sarah Houlton went to investigate.
Digitally generated on‐screen small colour differences
Authors: Oulton David P , Hayden Sarah L
Published: July 2010

The authors present some revised results and conclusions following the publication of their paper earlier this year in the Journal.
Efficient innovation: the key to success
Authors: Hansford John , Sadler David
Published: July 2010

A company based in a high‐cost economy cannot compete in terms of wage and infrastructure costs with one in a low‐cost economy, and must find other ways to remain competitive. One proven strategy is differentiation, and in this article John Hansford and David Sadler look at how differentiation through innovation has been implemented at Zeneca Colours.
The effect of dyeing on the hygral expansion of worsted fabrics. Part 2‐the influence of metal cations
Authors: Dodd K J , Carr C M , Baird M.
Published: July 2010

Wool gabardine fabric has been dyed in the presence of several different metal cations. Their influence on setting behaviour and subsequent dimensional properties is detailed. The use of extremely low levels of copper(II) sulphate as a novel dyebath antisetting treatment for wool is also demonstrated.
The making and coloration of leather
Authors: Brown Stephen G
Published: July 2010

Creating a product that can be used for clothing and other purposes from animal skins is a very different proposition from that of making them from textiles. Here, Stephen Brown explains how leather is processed.
Fading of azo reactive dyes by perspiration and light
Authors: Imada Kunihiko , Harada Naoki , Takagishi Toru
Published: July 2010

The fastness of azo reactive dyes on cellulose in a combined perspiration and light test was investigated, and compared with the results obtained in a conventional light fastness test. Whereas reactive dyes containing an H‐or K‐acid azo chromophore performed better in the conventional light fastness test, reactive dyes of the J‐or γ‐acid type exhibited a higher fastness in the combined test. The results suggest that testing under combined perspiration and light conditions involves a photoreduction mechanism, but a photo‐oxidation mechanism operates when dyed fabrics fade under light only.
From British Standards to CEN
Authors: Morris John
Published: July 2010

The Society has played a major role over the years in the development and implementation of standards for textile testing. John Morris gives an account of the relationship between the SDC and the various national and international bodies involved in the setting of standards in the testing area.
Chrome dyeing using anionic bivalent chromium complexes as mordants
Authors: Lewis D M , Yan G.
Published: July 2010

Chrome dyeings are normally produced by first applying an acid dye containing ligand groups and then afterchroming with hexavalent chromium derivatives such as dichromate salts. The latter can damage wool fibres and also are toxic components in dyehouse effluents, so afterchroming with mixtures of Cr(III) salts and organic acids has been studied. It has been shown that the anionic complexes that form from trivalent chromium and the organic acids are fibre substantive at pH 2–4 and have the correct stability profile for exchanging ligands to bind the chromium with ligand groups in the dye. Dyeings produced generally show colour yields and fastness properties similar to the normal Cr(VI) dyeing process; the exception are these chromophores which undergo oxidative change in the dichromate process.
The use of FTIR to investigate modifications to wool treated with sodium sulphite and cationic protein hydrolysate
Authors: Gómez N. , Juliá M R , Lewis D M , Erra P.
Published: July 2010

Wool was treated with sodium sulphite and amphiphilic cationic protein hydrolysate mixtures for different times and temperatures. The surface chemical modifications were followed using Fourier transform infra‐red spectroscopy coupled with the attenuated total internal reflectance sampling technique. The resolution of the infra‐red bands in the wool spectrum was improved by differentiation to the second‐order derivative. Absorbance bands in the 1300‐900 cm‐1 region were observed to change as a function of both time and temperature. Bunte salt was the main product formed from cystine, and it was measured by comparing the intensity of the Bunte salt band with the intensity of the peptide band (amide 3) in the second‐order derivative spectrum. It was possible to detect dehydroalanine formation and sorption of the amphiphilic cationic protein hydrolysate in the spectrum of treated wool.
Animal Models Used in the Screening of Antiepileptic Drugs
Authors: Kupferberg Harvey
Published: July 2010

Summary:The identification of potential therapeutic agents for the treatment of epilepsy requires the use of seizure models. These models can be either in vivo or in vitro, mechanism specific, mechanism independent, or seizure specific. To be predictive of therapeutic activity in patients, the models should approximate the events that precipitate seizures in humans. Model validation is defined by determining the pharmacologic characteristics using known clinically effective drugs. Mechanism‐independent models were used to identify the first antiepileptic drugs [AEDs; e.g., phenobarbital (PB) and phenytoin (PHT)]. Mechanism‐specific models are based on the fundamental process by which seizure propagation and inhibition occurs. Seizure‐type models identify a compound's potential based on its effects on electrographic and behavioral response. No single model can be used to identify potential compounds adequately for development. The full pharmacologic–anticonvulsant profile of a potentially useful new therapeutic agent is required to ensure successful development.
Pharmacokinetics of Levetiracetam
Authors: Radtke Rodney A.
Published: July 2010

Summary: Major considerations in the acceptance and impact of new antiepileptic drugs include their pharmacokinetics and their potential for interaction with other drugs. The pharmacokinetics of levetiracetam, a newly approved add‐on antiepileptic agent for partial‐onset seizures in adults, has been evaluated in 27 phase I and II studies. Consistent findings in these studies include rapid and complete oral absorption, linear dose kinetics, a minimal degree of protein binding, and predominantly renal excretion. Because of the lack of hepatic metabolism and low protein binding, the risk of interaction with other drugs is considered low.
Pharmacogenetics and Antiepileptic Drugs
Authors: Spear Brian B.
Published: July 2010

Summary:Responses among patients to antiepileptic drugs (AEDs) may be highly variable, with respect to both drug efficacy and safety. Pharmacogenetics addresses the genetic component of such patient variability. Differential response to phenytoin, for example, is related to interindividual genetic differences in the metabolic enzyme CYP2C9, and to a lesser extent, CYP2C19. However, no other AED responses have yet been linked conclusively to specific genes. Further understanding of the role of genes in AED response will depend on clinical investigations coupled with new information and technologies derived from the Human Genome Project. Once the DNA sequences involved in specific AED responses are understood, they can be used as the basis of clinical assays to predict the most likely response in each individual patient. The combination of clinical investigations, genomics, and emerging testing methodologies should lead to new tools for the effective management of epilepsy.
Neurochemical Underpinnings in Bipolar Disorder and Epilepsy
Authors: Amann Benedikt , Grunze Heinz
Published: July 2010

Summary: In this article, we discuss and highlight some of the potential neurochemical underpinnings of bipolar disorder (BD) and epilepsy. Some similarities are found in both disorders, such as the episodic course of the illnesses, the possible mechanism of kindling, and the efficacy of some antiepileptic drugs (AEDs) in treatment, all pointing to a common underlying pathophysiology. Common mechanisms at the level of ion channels might include the antikindling and the calcium‐antagonistic and potassium outward current–modulating properties of AEDs. However, future research on intracellular mechanisms might become decisive for a better understanding of the similarities between the disorders.
The basic science of memory as it applies to epilepsy
Authors: Meador Kimford J.
Published: July 2010

Summary  The mechanisms of memory delineated by the model of long‐term potentiation (LTP) are similar to those underlying epileptogenesis by kindling. Memory is impaired by seizures and epilepsy. High frequency neural activity is important in both memory formation and seizures. Both kindling and LTP are most effectively induced by high‐frequency stimuli, involve synaptic facilitation, and share overlapping molecular mechanisms, such as N‐methyl‐d‐aspartate (NMDA) receptor‐induced calcium cascade and protein synthesis. The hippocampus contributes to both through its role in memory formation and its low seizure threshold.
Waist Circumference but Not Body Mass Index Predicts Long‐Term Mortality in Elderly Subjects with Chronic Heart Failure
Authors: Testa Gianluca , Cacciatore Francesco , Galizia Gianluigi , Della‐Morte David , Mazzella Francesca , Langellotto Assunta , Russo Salvatore , Gargiulo Gaetano , De Santis Domenico , Ferrara Nicola , Rengo Franco , Abete Pasquale
Published: July 2010

OBJECTIVES: To examine whether waist circumference (WC) and body‐mass index (BMI) can predict long‐term mortality in elderly subjects with and without chronic heart failure (CHF).

DESIGN: Longitudinal evaluation with a 12‐year follow‐up.

SETTING: Campania, a region of southern Italy.

PARTICIPANTS: One thousand three hundred thirty‐two subjects aged 65 and older selected from the electoral rolls of Campania.

MEASUREMENTS: The relationship between WC or BMI and mortality during a 12‐year follow‐up in 125 subjects with and 1,143 subjects without CHF.

RESULTS: Mortality increased as WC increased in elderly subjects without CHF (from 47.8% to 56.7%, P=.01), and the increase was even greater in patients with CHF (from 58.1% to 82.0%, P=.01). In contrast, mortality decreased as BMI increased in elderly subjects without CHF (from 53.8% to 46.1%, P0 =.046) but not in those with CHF. According to Cox regression analysis, BMI protected against long‐term mortality in the absence but not in the presence of CHF. In the absence of CHF, WC was associated with a 2% increased risk of long‐term mortality for each 1‐cm greater WC (Hazard Ratio (HR)=1.02, 95% confidence interval (CI)=1.01–1.03; P<.001), versus 5% increased in the presence of CHF (HR=1.06, 95% CI=1.02–1.10; P<.001).

CONCLUSION: WC, but not BMI, is predictive of long‐term mortality in elderly individuals with CHF and to a lesser extent in those without CHF.
Driving Patterns of Older Adults: Results from the Second Injury Control and Risk Survey
Authors: Betz Marian E. , Lowenstein Steven R.
Published: July 2010

OBJECTIVES: To describe older adults' driving patterns, including self‐imposed driving restrictions and motor vehicle crashes (MVCs).

DESIGN: The Second Injury Control and Risk Survey (ICARIS‐2) was a national, random‐digit‐dial telephone survey conducted by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention in 2001 to 2003. ICARIS‐2 sampled 113,476 English‐ and Spanish‐speaking households, using weighting variables to generate national estimates.

RESULTS: The response rate was 48% (N=9,684). Six percent (n=728) of respondents were aged 75 and older. Of these, 85.6% (n=613) were aged 75 to 84, and 14.4% (n=115) were aged 85 and older; 59.2% were female. Three‐fourths (74.9%, 95% confidence interval (CI)=70.4–79.4%) of adults aged 75 to 84 and 69.9% (95% CI=48.2–71.6%) aged 85 and older were current drivers. Most (81.9%; 95% CI=77.6–86.2%) older drivers limited their driving, usually in bad weather (59.0%), at night (57.0%), on long trips (49.6%), in traffic (49.0%), or at high speeds (33.6%); only 15.4% limited driving for medical reasons. Women were more likely to self‐limit driving (odds ratio (OR)=1.83, 95% CI=0.99–3.39). Few (4.2%, 95% CI=2.4–6.1%) older adults reported MVC involvement in the past year as a driver or passenger. In multivariate analysis, drivers living alone (OR=3.93, 95% CI=1.55–9.95) and men (OR=2.59, 95% CI=1.18–5.67) were more likely to report a recent crash; drivers who self‐limited were less likely (OR=0.55, 95% CI=0.18–1.60).

CONCLUSION: Large majorities of older adults, including those aged 85 and older, are current drivers. Although many limit driving in hazardous conditions, fewer do for medical reasons. Men and older adults who live alone are more likely to report a recent MVC; those who self‐limit their driving are less likely to report crash involvement.
Mechanical load induced by glass microspheres releases angiogenic factors from neonatal rat ventricular myocytes cultures and causes arrhythmias
Authors: Barac D. Y. , Reisner Y. , Silberman M. , Zeevi‐Levin N. , Danon A. , Salomon O. , Shoham M. , Shilkrut M. , Kostin S. , Schaper J. , Binah O.
Published: July 2010

In the present study, we tested the hypothesis that similar to other mechanical loads, notably cyclic stretch (simulating pre‐load), glass microspheres simulating afterload will stimulate the secretion of angiogenic factors. Hence, we employed glass microspheres (average diameter 15.7 μm, average mass 5.2 ng) as a new method for imposing mechanical load on neonatal rat ventricular myocytes (NRVM) in culture. The collagen‐coated microspheres were spread over the cultures at an estimated density of 3000 microspheres/mm2, they adhered strongly to the myocytes, and acted as small weights carried by the cells during their contraction. NRVM were exposed to either glass microspheres or to cyclic stretch, and several key angiogenic factors were measured by RT‐PCR. The major findings were: (1) In contrast to other mechanical loads, such as cyclic stretch, microspheres (at 24 hrs) did not cause hypertrophy. (2) Further, in contrast to cyclic stretch, glass microspheres did not affect Cx43 expression, or the conduction velocity measured by means of the Micro‐Electrode‐Array system. (3) At 24 hrs, glass microspheres caused arrhythmias, probably resulting from early afterdepolarizations. (4) Glass microspheres caused the release of angiogenic factors as indicated by an increase in mRNA levels of vascular endothelial growth factor (80%), angiopoietin‐2 (60%), transforming growth factor‐β (40%) and basic fibroblast growth factor (15%); these effects were comparable to those of cyclic stretch. (5) As compared with control cultures, conditioned media from cultures exposed to microspheres increased endothelial cell migration by 15% (P<0.05) and endothelial cell tube formation by 120% (P<0.05), both common assays for angiogenesis. In conclusion, based on these findings we propose that loading cardiomyocytes with glass microspheres may serve as a new in vitro model for investigating the role of mechanical forces in angiogenesis and arrhythmias.