bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Judicial Jurisdiction over Internet Privacy Violations and the GDPR: a Case of ''Privacy Tourism''?
Authors: Revolidis Ioannis
Published: June 2017

This paper discusses the impact of art. 79(2) of the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) in international litigation over online privacy violations. The first part introduces the tendency of the European legislator to treat private international law problems in the field of data protection as isolated and independent from the traditional secondary private international law acts. The second part analyses the current status quo of international jurisdiction over online privacy violations according to Regulation 1215/2012. After briefly examining the eDate and Martinez ruling (joined cases C-509/09 and C-161/10), it concludes that the Court of Justice of the European Union has stretched the jurisdictional grounds of art. 7(2) Regulation 1215/2012 too far in order to afford strong protection to data subjects. In that sense, it raises doubts on whether art. 79(2) was necessary. Following this conclusion, it tries to explore the uneasy relationship of GDPR art. 79(2) with the jurisdictional regime established under Regulation 1215/2012. Instead of an epilogue, the last part tries to make some reflections on the impact of GDPR art. 79(2) in privacy litigation cases involving non-EU parties.
The European Commission’s Geo-blocking Proposals and the Future of EU E‑commerce Regulation
Authors: Van Cleynenbreugel Pieter
Published: June 2017

As part of its Digital Single Market strategy, the European Commission envisages to take action aimed at eradicating the practice of blocking one’s website to persons established or residing in a particular EU Member State. To that extent, a 2015 proposal for a regulation on the portability of online streaming services and a 2016 proposal for a regulation on geo-blocking outside the audio-visual context have been presented, the scope of which will be analysed in this paper.Although the proposed Regulations would tackle topical problems in EU e commerce and thus offer a necessary step forward in enhancing cross-border trade in the European Union, their envisaged regulatory approach raises important concerns from enforcement and rules’ circumvention points of view.Taking stock of those two concerns, the paper will reflect upon ways to mitigate their detrimental effects. Arguing that the geo-blocking proposals already contain the basic tools for such mitigation, the paper advocates the adoption of a more streamlined EU competition law and e-commerce regulation enforcement strategy, complemented by a “technologically more pro-active” EU law interpretation stance to e-commerce at the EU level.
Maternal alcohol consumption during pregnancy and child’s cognitive performance at 6–8 years of age in rural Burkina Faso: an observational study
Authors: Sanou Anselme Simeon , Diallo Abdoulaye Hama , Holding Penny , Nankabirwa Victoria , Engebretsen Ingunn Marie S. , Ndeezi Grace , Tumwine James K. , Meda Nicolas , Tylleskar Thorkild , Kashala-Abotnes Esperance
Published: June 2017

Background

In Burkina Faso, it is not uncommon for mothers to drink alcohol, even during pregnancy. We aimed to study the association between maternal alcohol consumption during pregnancy and the child’s cognitive performance using the Kaufman Assessment Battery for Children, 2nd edition (KABC-II) and the Children’s Category Test Level 1 (CCT-1) in rural Burkina Faso.

Methods

We conducted a follow-up study of a community cluster-randomised Exclusive breastfeeding trial, and re-enrolled the children in rural Burkina Faso. A total of 518 children (268 boys and 250 girls) aged 6–8 years were assessed using the KABC-II and the CCT-1. We examined the effect size difference using Cohen’s d and conducted a linear regression analysis to examine the association.

Results

Self-reported alcohol consumption during pregnancy was 18.5% (96/518). Children whose mothers reported alcohol consumption during pregnancy performed significantly poorly for memory and spatial abilities tests from small effect size difference for ‘Atlantis’ (0.27) and ‘Triangle’ (0.29) to moderate effect size difference for ‘Number recall’ (0.72) compared to children whose mothers did not consume alcohol during pregnancy; the exposed children scored significantly higher errors with a small effect size (0.37) at problem solving (CCT-1) test compared to unexposed children.

At unstandardized and standardized multivariable analysis, children whose mothers reported alcohol consumption during pregnancy performed significantly poorer for memory-‘Atlantis’ (p = 0.03) and ‘Number recall’ (p = 0.0001), and spatial ability tests-‘Triangle’ (p = 0.03); they scored significantly higher errors at problem solving CCT-1 test (p = 0.002); all the results were adjusted for age, sex, schooling, stunting, father’s education, mother’s employment and the promotion of exclusive breastfeeding. No statistical association was found for visual abilities-‘Conceptual Thinking’, ‘Face recognition’, ‘Story completion’, and reasoning tests-‘Rover’, ‘Block counting’, and ‘Pattern Reasoning’.

Conclusion

Maternal alcohol consumption during pregnancy is associated with poorer cognitive performance for memory, spatial ability, and problem solving tests in the offspring in rural Burkina Faso. Futures studies needs to assess in more detail the maternal alcohol consumption patterns in Burkina Faso and possible preventive strategies.
Cidades inteligentes e inovadoras: a proposta de um framework
Authors: Câmara Samuel Façanha , Carvalho Hermano José Batista , Pinto Francisco Roberto , Alves Junior Nilo , Souza Lucas Lopes Ferreira
Published: June 2017

Este artigo tem o objetivo de propor um framework de desenvolvimento de cidades (inteligentes) inovadoras para regiões em desenvolvimento. O trabalho descreve o desenho desta proposta de framework por meio da análise das características das cidades da região Nordeste do Brasil, caracterizando um espaço em amplo desenvolvimento e que possui, em seus contextos, diferenciais importantes que precisam ser analisados para a implementação de uma cidade inteligente. Para tal fim, foi necessário fazer um levantamento das características das cidades nordestinas e suas particularidades locais; também foram realizadas entrevistas com pesquisadores e estudiosos de smart cities já desenvolvidas em países da Europa, como Finlândia, Holanda, Espanha e Portugal; e, por fim, foi realizado um levantamento teórico sobre o que vem sendo estudado sobre o assunto. O framework elaborado demonstra que é possível desenhar um modelo evolucionário com base no aprendizado e no empoderamento da população, com impactos sobre a competitividade dessas regiões, o desempenho de suas organizações e a melhoria na qualidade de vida de seus cidadãos.Código JEL | O18; R11; D63.
Tecnologias sociais e empreendimentos criativos na Região Metropolitana de Belo Horizonte/MG
Authors: Mourão Nadja Maria
Published: June 2017

As tecnologias sociais se popularizaram como alternativas para a resolução de problemas estruturais dos setores mais excluídos da sociedade, na medida em que se apresentam como soluções modernas, simples e de baixo custo, apoiadas por programas governamentais. A pesquisa investiga exemplos de tecnologias sociais que promovem a inclusão social, com perspectivas de desenvolverem empreendimentos sociais, na Região Metropolitana de Belo Horizonte. O estudo utilizou os diferentes saberes, informações e experiências acumulados pelos cidadãos para, oportunamente, propor soluções de geração de renda em empreendimentos. Utilizou-se da metodologia de natureza qualitativa, aplicada a estudo de caso. Registraram-se alguns exemplos de geração de renda, como as atividades do “Antenados Produtora”, da cidade de Betim, a ONG “Mudança Já”, na região de Venda Nova, e a tecnologia social “Librário: Libras para Todos”, em Belo Horizonte. Concluiu-se que os exemplos de tecnologias sociais analisados podem gerar renda em empreendimentos criativos e promover o desenvolvimento socioeconômico local.Código JEL | O38; Q56; R59.
SEAWALLS AND BREAKWATERS
Authors: Ayers James R.
Published: June 2017

Since the days of the Phoenicians and Egyptians, men have struggled to build harbor works capable of standing against the forces of the sea. Although the remains of Roman works have endured to the modern era, little progress in design was made until the early part of the last century. Modern developments have led to a better knowledge of wave pressures, but the principal source of guidance is still to be found by studying the causes underlying the disasters of the past. This paper includes a brief outline of the principal structural types which have been built with varying degrees of success, a description of the results of certain model tests on a rubble mound breakwater, and a resume of some of the most important lessons learned from the many failures which have occurred.
DESIGN OF PILING
Authors: Morison J. R.
Published: June 2017

A theory for the forces exerted on piling by waves has been developed and confirmed by model studies (Morison, O'Brien, Johnson, and Schaaf, 1950). The results obtained by the application of this theory are of the correct order of magnitude; however, additional laboratory and field experiments are desirable to define more accurately the values and limits of certain coefficients which enter the theoretical relationships. It is the purpose of this paper to present the possible calculations and the assumptions made with the limitation involved.
HISTORY OF COLUMBIA RIVER JETTIES
Authors: Hickson R. E. , Rodolf F. W.
Published: June 2017

Columbia River is the largest river on the Pacific Coast of the United States. It heads at Columbia Lake in British Columbia, about 80 miles north of the international boundary, and flows northward parallel to the summit of the Rocky Mountains for about 185 miles, thence turns back and flows generally southward through Upper and Lower Arrow Lakes and enters the United States about 25 miles west of the northeast corner of the State of Washington. Thence the river flows by a sinuous course southward, westward, and southeastward to the Oregon-Washington boundary, thence generally westward between the two states, discharging into the Pacific Ocean 583 statute miles north of San Francisco Bay and 154 miles south of the Straits of Juan de Fuca (distances computed from differences in latitude). The river has a total length of 1,210 miles, of which 750 miles are in the United States.
THE FOUNDATION PROBLEMS ON THE GULF COAST
Authors: Buchanan Spencer J.
Published: June 2017

The foundation problems of the coastal region of the Gulf of Mexico are unique. Normally, a coastal region is thought of as the land area, such as a plain, adjacent to a body of water. Such a region usually is somewhat regular in its geology and because of the natural resources, terrain or climate may be given to a relatively common industry involving a somewhat similar development throughout. The coastal region of the Gulf of Mexico, as regards the United States, violates this criterion in a multitude of ways. The region is not limited to the coastal plain bordering the Gulf of Mexico, by any means, but, rather has been broadened by our commerce and the need for the development of natural resources to also embrace, the delta areas and offshore belt extending to the limit of the continental shelf, lying as far as 70 miles from the shore. The delta areas have long been avoided in the past by industry of all types that is, with the exception of the fishing industry, because of the unstable nature of the foundation media. Likewise the continental shelf area normally is not considered for industrial development because of the availability of the more desirable coastal plain. However, the quest for natural resources, like sulphur and petroleum, in spite of the efforts toward Federal Control, has made necessary the solution of very extraordinary foundation problems in this offshore area. In addition to the foregoing unusual aspects of the foundation problems of the Gulf Coast, the coastal plain is unusual in itself because this region at one time formed the floor of the Gulf of Mexico and, as the sea receded or the land was uplifted, the residual sedimentary soils have been drained and desiccated to result in unusual formations that serve as foundation media for the industrial and domestic developments of the region. The foregoing factors combine to make the foundation problems of the Gulf of Mexico Coastal Region very interesting.
STRUCTURAL ASPECTS OF LIGHTHOUSE DESIGN
Authors: Leba, Jr. Theodore
Published: June 2017

The purpose of this paper is to provide an acquaintance with lighthouses, the types of structures which have been erected, the reasons for their shape and form, and the basis for design. It will be revealed as the treatise proceeds, that the technique of design of lighthouses has improved with the increase in knowledge of the forces that are acting and the behavior of materials while subjected to stresses and strains of these forces.
PERTAINING TO PRESTRESS
Authors: Koebel Fred E.
Published: June 2017

The purpose of this paper is to summarize in some detail the application of prestressed concrete to coastal structures, explain the basic theories of prestressed concrete, and give an explanation of an application of prestressed concrete recently designed and used by the author.
WAVE-PRODUCED MOTION OF MOORED SHIPS
Authors: Knapp Robert T.
Published: June 2017

This paper presents a brief description of some ship motion measurements made in Los Angeles Harbor in conjunction with the model study of inner mole at that location. It also includes the description of the battery of recording instruments which was developed as the result of the difficulties encountered in making the ship motion measurements by conventional means.
SALINITY PROBLEMS
Authors: Simmons H. B.
Published: June 2017

The basic sources of salt-water pollution are the ocean, industry, and the soil. The ocean is responsible for the intrusion of salt water into rivers, canals, and lakes, and for infiltration of sea water into aquifiers which are tapped by wells. Industry causes salt-water pollution by discharging the brine of mines, oil wells, tanneries, and other industrial wastes into rivers and lakes. The soil is a source of salt-water pollution because of the run-off from chloride-bearing soils and the solution of soluble rocks. The most common and important source of salt-water pollution is the ocean, and is the only source considered in this paper.
RECENT GEOLOGY OF COASTAL LOUISIANA
Authors: Russell Richard J.
Published: June 2017

Recent, in a technical geological sense, refers to the latest episode of geological time. Definitions vary. Northern European geologists are likely to refer to about the last 10,000 years for the reason that only the sedimentary deposits of such an interval are available for study. Geologists in the United States commonly regard the Recent as a post-glacial period of somewhat longer duration. Studies of materials containing the carbon isotope, C14, are resulting in time determinations in years. Louisiana geologists define Recent as that period of time during -which sea level made its last general rise. This may have lasted about 30,000 years. Sedimentary layers deposited during that period are regarded as Recent in age.
INTER-RELATIONS BETWEEN JET BEHAVIOR AND HYDRAULIC PROCESSES OBSERVED AT DELTAIC RIVER MOUTHS AND TIDAL INLETS
Authors: Bates Charles G. , Freeman, Jr. John C.
Published: June 2017

Price (1951) has stated: "(in) geological oceanography as practiced today there is constant emphasis on quantitative measurement and quantitative theoretical development." As a demonstration of this geophysical approach to geological problems the authors have studied the theory of processes involved when sediment-laden water flows into a currentless, tideless, wave-free basin. The theoretical concepts developed have then been tested against the actual occurrences in nature. The result is that it is possible to propose a comprehensive theory of delta formation which may explain many of the features observed near mouths of rivers. According to this theory, there are three distinct and basic types of river inflow into a still basin, as shown in Figure 1:
EXPOSURE RESEARCH ON CONCRETE IN SEA WATER
Authors: Cook Herbert K.
Published: June 2017

Many coastal installations are constructed entirely of concrete or contain concrete in a large part of the structure, particularly those portions which are submerged, and those portions between low and high water. It is the latter locations which are submitted to the most severe exposure.
CORROSION STUDIES OF STEEL PILING IN SEA WATER IN BOSTON HARBOR
Authors: Wey George L.
Published: June 2017

A vital problem which has resulted from our present economic justification of the use of steel piles in all of the Port's waterfront terminals is the corrosion of the piles in sea water. The selection of some type of steel piles was not made on the basis of greater resistance to fire and marine organisms, but for purely economic reasons. Timber piling has its marine borer problem, and steel has its corrosion. In this article there are three thoughts which I hope to convey to every engineer engaged in coastal engineering, namely:

(1) Each project's corrosion consideration should be treated as a distinct and separate study in designing a pile-supported structure, based on investigation of adjacent local conditions.

(2) There is nothing universal about the pattern or rate of corrosion to be expected; it is subject to many variables.

(3) Provisions or measures to mitigate or eliminate corrosion should have economic justification consistent with the planned life expectancy of the study.
LINEAR SOLUTION FOR GENERATION OF TSUNAMI WAVES WITH GROUND MOTION AND TIMESCALES
Authors: Le Gal Marine , Violeau Damien , Benoit Michel
Published: June 2017

Tsunami generation have commonly been modeled by using the Okada method (see Okada (1992)), i.e. from seismic data, the final ground deformation is calculated and applied to the free surface as an initial deformation. Using this method, lot of aspects of the generation are neglected, including timescales. The aim of this study is to measure the influence of temporal parameters during a simplified kinematic generation. In this purpose, a junction between the work of Hammack (1973) and Todorovska and Trifunac (2001) is done to built a linear semi-analytical solution of the free surface deformation depending simultaneously of the the rise time, tr, and the rupture velocity, vp. They characterize the vertical and horizontal motions respectively. This solution is compared and validated with numerical simulations and the influence of the temporal parameters is measured by varying their values in a large range. A resonance phenomenon appears, as noticed by Todorovska and Trifunac (2001), but only for short rise times. It manifests an amplification of the generated wave amplitude against the ground deformation amplitude at the end of the motion. Then, using numerical simulations, this conclusion is briefly extended to the nonlinear regime.
INTEGRATED COASTAL PROCESS MODELING AND IMPACT ASSESSMENT OF FLOATING AND SEDIMENTATION IN COASTS AND ESTUARIES
Authors: Ding Yan , Yeh Keh-Chia , Wei Shao-Tang
Published: June 2017

In this study, an integrated coastal process model was applied to assess impact of coastal flooding and sedimentation in an estuary in Taiwan and to evaluate performance of proposed engineering plans for flood prevention and sedimentation management. This in-situ validated model was used to simulate and predict hydrodynamic processes and morphological changes induced by multiple hydrological forcing such as river flood flows, waves, tides, and storms surges from rivers to the estuary and its adjacent coasts. Simulation results quantified coastal flooding risks, erosions, sedimentation, and channel refilling. Predicted dynamic responses to typhoons and monsoons were utilized for identifying the most effective engineering plan to reshape the geometry of the estuary. After the selected engineering plan was accomplished, this model was applied again to further predict morphological changes in the newly-developed estuary. This paper demonstrates effectiveness of a simulation-based coastal and estuary planning approach to manage flood and sedimentation driven by complex physical processes from river flows, waves, tides, and sediment transport.
MULTIDISCIPLINARY APPROACH FOR THE ASSESSMENT OF COASTAL RISKS AT CLOUGHANINCHY (WEST COAST OF IRELAND)
Authors: Lizondo Susana , Barry Kevin , Reilly Joshua , Ascoop Julie , Southgate Howard Neil , Kitou Matilda , Walsh Daniel , Lahiffe Steve , Tiernan Tom
Published: June 2017

The purpose of this paper is to present the multidisciplinary approach adopted to undertake a detailed coastal flood and erosion risk management investigation at Cloughaninchy beach (Ireland). The site was severely affected by a series of extreme events with extreme high tide combined with a severe sea swell and onshore winds resulting in severe damage due to flooding and wave action as well as substantial retreat of the dune system. Based on a comprehensive assessment and multidisciplinary studies an appropriate plan was subsequently developed to best manage the risks identified and to further assess the feasibility of the recommended management plan options and measures. The project is an example of how vital the integration of specialized disciplines (coastal engineering, hydraulic flood modelling and coastal morphology) is in the determination of the appropriate protection measures for coastal sites.
STUDY AND ANALYSIS OF SILTATION AT NAHRE GHASR FISHERY PORT
Authors: Orooghi Amidi Mehrdad , Soltanpour Mohsen , Ranji Zahra
Published: June 2017

The discharge of Arvand River and tidal currents affect the large siltation at Nahre Ghasr Fishery Port, located at the Nahre Ghasr channel, the Persian Gulf. Using 2DH and 3D numerical models, the flow pattern at the channel was investigated to study the details of siltation problem. The local model was calibrated by the measured data of water surface and suspended sediment rate. The main flow mechanisms that can affect the rate of siltation including the horizontal exchange, the vertical exchange and tidal filling, were analyzed. The study showed that tidal filling plays the dominant role on the sedimentation at Nahre Ghasr channel. Different scenarios were also examined for reducing the siltation rate at the port.
SEGMENTATION OF WATER BODY GIVEN PROBABILITY OF OCCURRENCE OF WIND DIRECTION BY CIRCULAR OR ELLIPTIC DISTRIBUTION
Authors: Serizawa Masumi , Uda Takaaki , Miyahara Shiho
Published: June 2017

In a slender water body with a large aspect ratio, the angle of wind waves relative to the direction normal to the shoreline may exceed 45Â°, resulting in the emergence of cuspate forelands and the segmentation of a lake, because the fetch distance along the principal axis becomes large. The BG model was used to predict the segmentation of a rectangular water body by wind waves when the probability of occurrence of wind direction is given by a circular or elliptic distribution. The changes in wave field and sand transport flux over time were calculated to investigate the wave-sheltering effect of the cuspate forelands. A rectangular lake segmented into circular or elliptic lake, when the probability of occurrence of wind direction is given by a circular or elliptic distribution, respectively.
MODEL EXPERIMENT AND FIELD TEST OF PW-OWC TYPE WAVE POWER EXTRACTING BREAKWATER
Authors: Shimosako Kenichiro , Arikawa Taro , Takeda Masahide , Kihara Kazuyoshi , Hosokawa Yasushi , Fueki Takayuki , Masuda Koichi , Ikoma Tomoki , Nagata Shuichi , Osawa Hiroki , Miyazaki Tsuyoshi
Published: June 2017

Many research studies on wave power conversion have been conducted in Japan over the past 30 years, but the outgrowth of these studies have yet to be put to practical use. In this study, medium-scale and large-scale hydraulic model experiments as well as prototype field test on a new oscillating water column with a projecting wall (PW-OWC) wave power extracting breakwater were carried out in order to investigate the efficiency of energy conversion. The primary energy conversion efficiency of the PW-OWC converter is about 10% larger than that of the standard OWC type used in the medium-scale experiments. The primary energy conversion efficiency of the large scale experiments is about 20-30-% smaller than that of the medium scale experiments. The secondary energy conversion efficiency ranges from 0.20 to 0.42 and becomes small when the wave period is short and the wave height is large.
MODELLING URBAN COASTAL FLOODING THROUGH 2-D ARRAY OF BUILDINGS USING SMOOTHED PARTICLE HYDRODYNAMICS
Authors: Alahmed Sohaib Rashid Sulaiman , Zou Qingping
Published: June 2017

A Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method is used to investigate the flood characteristics occurring in an idealized city with two different building layouts: aligned layout and 22.5o skewed layout with respect to the direction of the incoming flow. The model results show that the water elevation is higher for the skewed city layout than that for the aligned city layout. The force due to the flood impact on the majority of buildings tend to be higher for the former than that for the latter. The complex flow features including a hydraulic jump during the flooding event are well captured by the SPH model.
A STUDY FOR THE GENERATION MECHANISM OF THE RIP CURRENT AT THE ENCLOSED BEACH BY THE GROIN
Authors: Inukai Naoyuki , Ejiri Yoshifumi , Ootake Takeshi , Yamamoto Hiroshi , Hosoyamada Tokuzo
Published: June 2017

This study tried to comprehend the generation mechanism of the rip current at the enclosed beach by the groins. Firstly, this study did field survey and comprehended the large scale and velocity of the rip current. In this method, the rip current was pigmented by the sea water colorant, and the pigmented current was recorded as the aerial photograph by the multi-copter. Secondly, this study simulated the rip current in accordance with the results of field survey, and the results of simulation and filed survey ware compared.
PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS FOR A TAKEOFF IN SURFING
Authors: Kimura Akihiko , Kakinuma Taro
Published: June 2017

The conditions required for a takeoff in surfing, are discussed, with the waves simulated numerically, considering two types of wave breaking, i.e., a plunging type, and a spilling type. First, a surfer is required to obtain a sufficient value for the horizontal component of paddling speed, not to be overtaken by a wave peak. Second, when the surfer stops paddling, he needs to be floating at a location where the force on him is downward, along the wave front face. On the basis of both conditions, the time variation of the required value for the horizontal component of paddling speed, is evaluated for both the plunging-type, and spilling-type, cases. When the paddling speed is sufficient, the surfable area is larger in the former case, than in the latter, on the offshore side of the wave-breaking point.
DETERMINATION OF WAVE CREST ELEVATIONS FOR SLAMMING FORCES ON JETTY WITH VERTICAL WALL END
Authors: Cevik Esin Ozkan , Yuksel Yalcin , Aydogan Burak , Ayat Aydogan Berna , Yuksel Tugce
Published: June 2017

Wave disturbance study for a closed end jetty conducted both in laboratory and through a numerical model is presented in this study. Shore protection structures and the structures at the end of the piers are considered for the calculation of the wave disturbance map. The connection locations of the jetties have been designed as vertical walls. These vertical structures and armored waterfront structures would affect the wave behavior in the study area along jetty axis causing reflection of waves and therefore the wave height in front of the structures might increase. This study intends to clarify wave agitation problem by using a numerical model with the help of physical model study.
Complete Proceedings - Single PDF Download
Authors: Johnson J. W.
Published: June 2017

This conference was sponsored jointly by the Council on Wave Research and the Technological Institute of Northwestern University, with support also being given by the Western Society of Engineers, The Illinois Section of the American Society of Civil Engineers and the Illinois Institute of Technology. Appreciation is expressed to the Great Lakes Division of the Corps of Engineers for photographs supplies for illustrations in this publication.
FIELD INVESTIGATION OF SUSPENDED SEDIMENT IN THE SURF ZONE
Authors: Watts George M.
Published: June 2017

Purpose - This paper presents the results of a number of field observations made at Pacific Beach near San Diego, California with a suspended sediment sampler. A detailed description of the laboratory and field development of the sampler is presented in the Beach Erosion Board Technical Memorandum Ho. 3k entitled "Development and Field Tests of a Sampler for Suspended Sediment in Wave Action". The laboratory development involved: a circulating system which provided various current velocities and concentration patterns at the test section; the testing of various size nozzles; the study of particle size distribution of samples obtained by the nozzles; and the development of correction factors for field conditions. It was concluded from the laboratory study that a pump-type sampler could be adapted to the study of suspended material movement in wave action. The principal result from the laboratory tests was a tentative finding that by pumping through a vertically disposed 1/2-inch nozzle with a velocity approximately twice the maximum orbital current velocity in a wave, samples could be obtained which were representative in weight (even without a correction factor) to within about 15 per cent of the true suspension.
SOME DYNAMIC ASPECTS IN THE DESIGN OF MARINE STRUCTURES ON THE GREAT LAKES
Authors: Mueller Luther A. , Knutson Herman A. , Koch A. Arthur
Published: June 2017

An investigation of the failures of a number of marine structures located in the southern portion of Lake Michigan has shown that forces must have existed at the time of failure of a type and of a magnitude whose significance to adequate design had not always been fully realized. The purpose of this paper is to indicate the probable nature of these forces and in one or two instances to estimate their magnitudes.
HYDROGEOLOGICAL BREAKING CHARACTERISTICS OF WAVES ABOVE FRESH WATER SUBAQUEOUS SOURCES
Authors: D'Arrigo Agatino
Published: June 2017

After a short review of the usefulness of maritime structures, particularly vertical wall breakwaters, long term observations of hydrogeological breaking on the bottom of Italy's Seas, as caused by the subaqueous source of fresh water, are discussed. The correlation between hydrogeological breaking and wave motion perturbation produced by compressed air or by oil is presented. These considerations are related to the observations of Admiral Alessandro Cialdi on the morphological breaking of waves above sand banks, thus producing calmness in the upper water.

Therefore, it appears possible to establish a very suggestive analogy between the atomic disintegration of the transformation of potential energy of the oscillatory tide wave into kinematic energy of its components (because of breaking), in accordance with the disintegration of the circular motion.
OF THE ANSEOBSERVATIONS ON THE FILLING DE L'AIGUILLON (FRANCE)
Authors: Verger F.
Published: June 2017

The coast of Vendee, south of the Pointe du Grouin du Cou, has been the scene of a fast morphological evolution: the coastal bar of La Tranche, the spit of Arcay with ridges and furrows, and the bar of the Pointe de l'Aiguillon. The rather quick advance of the latter since the Middle Ages has narrowed the opening of the Anse de l'Aiguillon and thus facilitated the deposit of sediment in the Anse, which has reduced the size of the bay. A few centuries ago this bay went further east and north.
WIND AND MAXIMUM WAVE HEIGHT
Authors: Gills Paul A.
Published: June 2017

The height of waves depends on the strength of the wind it is necessary to know the maximum wind speed in order to know the wave pattern. The data on winds are given by scale (Beaufort's scale), by speed (in nautical miles, or kilometers per hour and meters per second, and the maximum wind speed, typhoons excluded, seems to be 110 miles (nautical). In typhoons the wind speed exceeds these values very much; on the other hand, in the mid-Atlantic zone between the United States and Europe, there are often speeds of 55 miles per hour but greater speeds are exceptional. The experiments on the pressure due to the wind against a body give results which confirm the usual rules of calculations as used in public works, bridges, etc.
SOME SEA DEFENCE WORKS IN ENGLAND
Authors: Dobbie C. H.
Published: June 2017

The tidal flood of Jan.-Sep. 1953, which caused much damage to the east and south-east coast of England, was investigated by numerous authorities, including the Government Waverley Committee. (1) The report of this last body has resulted in further alterations of methods of financing sea defence works. A fundamental alteration in the basic conception for design of sea walls has also taken place. Instead of attempting to build to extreme heights to exclude tidal flooding, it is now usual to allow for a certain degree of overtopping during top flood conditions. The systems of legislation, administration and finance, now brought up to modern standards, are set out with some reference to their histories. Factors affecting design heights of sea walls are enumerated. A type of revetment developed in England, and much used in the works constructed following the floods is described.
RESONANT STRUCTURES AND THEIR APPLICATION TO HARBOR PROTECTION
Authors: Valembois J. , Birard C.
Published: June 2017

The principle of resonant structures is briefly described. These hydraulic resonators, which have been patented by Eleotricite de France, act as reflective structures for a range of wave periods encompassing their period of resonance, without obstructing the passages like a jetty. The originality of these structures lies in the fact that the periodicity of the waves is used to reflect them.

Some dispositions of resonant structures are described: basins having a length equal to a quarter of the wave length, resonators similar to pipes of different types, one of them having a period of resonance independent of the variations of level due to the tides.

Applications to harbor problems have been studied at Chatou. One of them concerns the protection of a look and of an inner harbor, the other the protection of a harbor in which resonant struotures have been used to complete the action of ordinary struotures for a certain range of wave periods.
STUDY OF THE REFLECTION COEFFICIENT OF A WAVE ON AN INCLINED PLANE
Authors: Greslou L. , Mahe Y.
Published: June 2017

This paper is intended to make a further contribution, based on laboratory experiments, to the many tests carried out to date on the problems of the reflecting capacity of an obstacle attacked by waves.

Systematic measurements made in a wave flume at the Laboratoire Dauphinois d'Hydraulique, with obstacles formed by plane surfaces inclined between 0 and 90 degrees, have made it possible to plot a graph showing the variation of the reflection coefficient for a wave approaching these obstacles in a normal direction, in relation to the slope of the latter and the shape of the wave.

It has also been possible to ascertain the effect of the wall roughness, because some tests were made with rock-filled breakwaters.

A comparison has been made between the experimental curves obtained in this way and Miche's theoretical curves. This has shown that the latter appear satisfactory, and it has made it possible to investigate some points with Miche himself thought should be clarified by tests in a laboratory.

A graph of this kind can be of great value for estimating the reinforcement of disturbance near sea structures. This disturbance often makes navigation and berthing difficult. But the full understanding of these curves can lead to the knowledge of whether a talus or a beach has a sufficiently gentle slope to efficiently protect a coastline by distributing the energy of waves before they reach the area which must be protected.
AN EXPERIMENTAL INVESTIGATION OF DRIFT PROFILES IN A CLOSED CHANNEL
Authors: Russell R. C. H. , Osorio J. D. C.
Published: June 2017

The first order theory of water waves states that water particles move in closed orbits; that this was not exactly so, and that there was a slow drift of the water in the direction of wave propagation, was first realised by Stokes(1) who proposed a solution of the horizontal drift or mass transport for waves in an inviscid fluid. Recently the effect of the viscosity has been investigated by .Longuet-Higgins (2) Experimental measurements have been made by Caligny (3), the U.S. Beach Erosion Board (4), Bagnold (5), and previously by the Hydraulics Research Station. The evidence from these sources is incomplete.

In the experiments described in this paper measurements of the mass transport at all levels were made with progressive waves, varying in length from about 1 1/2 to 50 ft and in water between 6 and 20 in. deep.
SCALE EFFECTS INVOLVING THE BREAKING OF WAVES
Authors: Diephuis J. G.H.R.
Published: June 2017

When in the period after 1953 the projects to damm up the estuaries in the south western part of the Netherlands took shape and it turned out to be necessary to let very wide discharge sluices into at least one of them, the problem arose which waves had to be taken into account at the structure before, during and after the construction. The waves occurring at high tides and storm surges are determinant for the definite shape and dimensions of the sluices. More frequently occurring waves have to be reckoned with during the construction. Though, especially in recent years, many measurements have been done in nature by the Rijkswaterstaat, supplementary calculations and model investigations appeared necessary, to determine the design criteria at rarely occurring circumstances.
THE ORIGIN AND STABILITY OF BEACHES
Authors: Hoyle J. W. , King G. T.
Published: June 2017

One should not lose sight of the fact that the origin of beaches goes back into antiquity. The story "begins with the origin of matter and continues through the aeons with the evolution of the solar system and the appearance of the Earth as a fiery ball gyrating in space. As one's focus narrows there is to be seen the cooling of that ball, the formation of dense clouds of water vapour in the atmosphere, the torrential rains and the beginnings of the seas. Perhaps it is at this point that the introduction is completed and the real story of the beaches begins, for with the rains came erosion of the land masses, and the transportation of the eroded material by river and rivulet towards the sea. At the brink of the ocean a brief halt is called in its journey, for here a portion of this eroded material takes position as beaches around die coast, before ultimately joining the remainder in the depths of the sea. For many thousands of years the sediment so formed and transported collected on the sea bed, consolidated and hardened and was transformed into the sedimentary rocks which, by adjustments in the Earth's crust, were later lifted above the surface of the sea to form new islands and continents. Still the rains fall, although perhaps not so heavily as before; still the processes of erosion continue upon the land masses, old and new, still a part of the products of this erosion remain for a while at the coastal fringe before they pass on to the ocean depths - the raw material of what may be, by completion of the cycle, the continents of tomorrow. Such is the sequence of events over a period of millions of years and, as the process continues during the millions of years which the future holds, the existing land masses will no doubt be eroded away and the materials of which they are composed will finally rest again on the bed of the sea. For so long as the seas have washed the shores, and the rains have fallen and reduced the mountains and high places, there have been beaches. Those beaches, which are found today may have existed from time immemorial in some form or other, perhaps since before life appeared on the surface of the Earth. Due to their position in the pattern of Nature they will have changed as the coastline changed, and as the eroded ingredients of the land which formed them changed. They will have grown when the new material supply exceeded the wastage, and they will have diminished when the wastage was more rapid than the replenishment. The changes which are taking place today and which are engaging the attention of the Civil Engineer, form an infinitesimally small incident in the history of the beaches; and in the considerations of the Engineer they should be related to the whole, of which they form a part.
HOW ARE BEACHES SUPPLIED WITH SHINGLE?
Authors: Steers J. A.
Published: June 2017

In Great Britain there are numerous types of shingle beaches, some of which are almost wholly formed of shingle, others have a large proportion of sand intermixed with the shingle, and there are some which are virtually sand beaches on which there is some shingle.
EFFECT OF LAKE WORTH AND SOUTH LAKE WORTH INLETS ON THE MOVEMENT OF LITTORAL MATERIAL
Authors: Eden, Jr. Edwin W.
Published: June 2017

Lake Worth and South Lake Worth Inlets are artificial inlets connecting Lake Worth with the Atlantic Ocean. They are located on the east coast of Florida about 70 miles north of Miami and 300 miles south of Jacksonville. Lake Worth is a salt-water sound extending in a north-south direction, generally parallel to the ocean shore, as shown on figure 1. It is separated from the ocean by a barrier beach, 250 feet to about 3,600 feet wide and up to about 25 feet in elevation. The barrier beach is composed principally of sand, a portion of which is artificial fill over former low-lying marshy areas. There are occasional outcroppings of coquina rock on the barrier beach and in the offshore area. In this locality the offshore bottom is rather steep; the 100-fathom depth, lying closer to the shore than along other parts of the Atlantic coast, is about 5-1/2 miles offshore at Lake Worth Inlet.
RESULTATS D'ETUDES SUR MODELE DE LA DIMENSION DES ENROCHEMENTS A UTILISER POUR LA COUPURE D'UNE RIVIERE OU D'UN ESTUAIRE A MAREE
Authors: Goddet J.
Published: June 2017

L'usine maremotrice projetee par Electricite de France sera situee a l'embouchure de l'estuaire de la Rance, dans le golfe de Saint Malo, Ce site est particulierement favorable, en raison de la grande amplitude des marees (13,50 m a 14 m en vives eaux exceptionnelles) et de la grande capacite de l'estuaire par rapport a sa largeur ; le volume d'eau emmagasine par une maree de vives eaux a l'amont de l'emplacement du barrage, est de 180 millions de m3 Le barrage aura une longueur de 800 metres environ, correspondant a la largeur actuelle de l'estuaire, et sera etabli sur des fonds rocheux situes a 10 metres environ au-dessous des plus basses-mers. La cote superieure de l'ouvrage sera a + 15 metres, de sorte qu'en vives eaux le barrage n'emergera que de 1,50 m. La puissance installee sera de 350 000 kilowatts environ. La situation de l'usine maremotrice est indlquee sur la figure 1.
SUCCESS AND FAILURE OF COAST PROTECTION WORKS IN CEYLON
Authors: Paranathala W. E.
Published: June 2017

The Island of Ceylon, which is often referred to as the Pearl of the Indian Ocean, is 25,481 square miles in extent. It lies between 0 and 10 degrees North Latitude, and between 79 and 82 degrees East Longitude. The Island is mango-shaped. Its length from north to south is 272 miles, and its breadth from east to west is 140 miles. (Fig.1).
THE EFFECT OF SEEPAGE ON THE STABILITY OF SEA WALL
Authors: Richart, Jr. F. E. , Schmertmann J. H.
Published: June 2017

Vertical bulkheads, or retaining walls of the sheet-pile type, are often used as sea walls at locations not subjected to continuous or severe wave action. Many miles of this type sea wall have been constructed along the Florida coast and coastline of the United States and have given satisfactory service. However, the failures of vertical seawalls which continue to occur during mild storms indicate that the design procedures available, or actually used, may be inadequate.
JETTY FOUNDATIONS ON FINE SEDIMENTS
Authors: Zeevaert Leonardo
Published: June 2017

The Secretaria de Marina Nacional of Mexico, contemplates the construction of two long jetties at the mouth of the Grijalva River to permit safe navigation into the port of Prontera in the state of Tabasco, Fig 1. The port of Frontera is located in the estuary of the Grijalva River 9Km. from its mouth. The proposed jetties should reach into the sea to a depth of water of 6 mts. This requires a length from the mouth of the river of about 2000 mts, Fig 2. Rock fill jetties constructed in the past in this area on the fine sediments have failed by spreading and penetration into the fine cohesionless sediments encountered at the sea bottom. Heavy structures cannot be constructed on account of the low shearing strength of the submarine delta clay deposits that may be encountered at the mouth of the Qrijalva River.
STABLE CHANNELS
Authors: Bretting A. E.
Published: June 2017

The form and size of a channel in cohesionless material, stable against erosion for a definite discharge, Q, is studied.

* To be published separately by the Coastal Engineering Laboratory, University of Florida, Gainesville, Florida.
HIGH-WATER PROBLEMS ON THE DANISH NORTH SEA COAST
Authors: Ringe-Jorgensen C.
Published: June 2017

With reference to the use of high-water frequency curves, which have been suggested by Wemelsfelder as an aid to fix the maximum flooding level, an attempt will be made in the following to estimate how far certain special geographical and meteorological conditions may be expected to influence the shape of the frequency curves for different localities. The investigation concerns a particular point on the Danish North Sea coast compared with the Dutch coast, but its principles may possibly be of interest in a wider sense.
WIND TIDES ON LAKE OKEECHOBEE
Authors: Farrer Lawrence A.
Published: June 2017

Determination of wind tides and wave action is an essential step in the design of flood-control and navigation projects and of structures near large bodies of water which may be subjected to hurricane winds. In 1948, the Corps of Engineers initiated a program to collect wind-tide and wave data on Lake Okeechobee. Basic data collected and investigations made under that program have been published as a series of project bulletins, "Waves and Wind Tides in Inland Waters, Lake Okeechobee, Florida, and in a summary report, "Civil Works Investigation CW-167, Waves and Wind Tides in Shallow Lakes and Reservoirs." Data on wind velocities, wind tides, and waves have been collected under that program during six hurricanes and many minor storms. In this paper an attempt is made to summarize the results of the wind-tide studies and outline the procedure developed for computing wind tides on Lake Okeechobee.