bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Samples in Research on Prenatal Cocaine Exposure: Vexing Problems and Practical Solutions
Authors: Olson Heather Carmichael , Toth Susan Katalin
Published: November 2015

Although research methodology in study of the effects of prenatal cocaine exposure has markedly Improved as this complex field has matured, there remain vexing methodological difficulties. Comparing findings across different cohort studies is challenging because of variations in how samples are described or because important sample characteristics are not documented. A few studies of prenatal poly-drug exposure with problems in sample design continue to be published, the implications of sample design for research questions need consideration, and sample attrition is a continuing problem. This paper explains these problems, and suggests some practical solutions. Examples are drawn from the current literature and the authors' experience with the Seattle Cocaine and Pregnancy Study, an early cohort study of cocaine effects.
Changes in ErbB2 (her-2/neu), ErbB3, and ErbB4 during Growth, Differentiation, and Apoptosis of Normal Rat Mammary Epithelial Cells
Authors: Darcy Kathleen M. , Zangani Danilo , Wohlhueter Ann L. , Huang Ruea-Yea , Vaughan Mary M. , Russell Joy A. , Ip Margot M.
Published: November 2015

Studies were undertaken to examine the natural role of ErbB2, ErbB3, and ErbB4 during the development of normal rat mammary epithelial cells (MECs) in vivo and in vitro. Immunohistochemical analysis demonstrated that mammary gland terminal end buds expressed abundant ErbB2 and ErbB4 but limited ErbB3 in pubescent rats, whereas luminal epithelial cells in nulliparous rats expressed ErbB2, ErbB3, and/or ErbB4. During pregnancy, ductal epithelial cells and stromal cells expressed abundant ErbB3 but limited ErbB2. Although ErbB2 and ErbB3 were downregulated throughout lactation, both receptors were re-expressed during involution. In contrast, ErbB4 was downregulated throughout pregnancy, lactation, and involution. Immunoblotting and immunoprecipitation studies confirmed the developmental expression of ErbB2 and ErbB3 in the mammary gland and the co-localization of distinct ErbB receptors in the mammary gland of nulliparous rats. In agreement with our in vivo findings, primary culture studies demonstrated that ErbB2 and ErbB3 were expressed in functionally immature, terminally differentiated and apoptotic MECs, and downregulated in functionally differentiated MECs. ErbB receptor signaling was required for epithelial cell growth, functional differentiation, and morphogenesis of immature MECs, and the survival of terminally differentiated MECs. Finally, ErbB4 expression did not interfere with functional differentiation and apoptosis of normal MECs.
Apoptosis in Rat Gastric Antrum: Evidence That Regulation by Food Intake Depends on Nitric Oxide Synthase
Authors: Cao Bao-Hong , Mortensen Kirsten , Tornehave Ditte , Larsson Lars-Inge
Published: November 2015

The turnover of the epithelium of the gastrointestinal tract is regulated by a balance between cell multiplication and cell loss. We examined the effects of starvation on apoptosis in endocrine and other epithelial cells of rat antropyloric mucosa. Apoptosis was determined by the TUNEL reaction combined with immunocytochemical staining for gastrin and somatostatin. Apoptotic cell morphology was determined by bisbenzimide staining for DNA. Both gastrin and somatostatin cells showed a significantly lower apoptotic index than the general epithelium. This agrees with the longer turnover kinetics of gastric endocrine cells. On starvation, the apoptotic index of the general epithelium and of the gastrin but not of the somatostatin, cells increased significantly. This was prevented by the nitric oxide synthase (NOS) inhibitor L-NAME but not by its inactive stereoisomer D-NAME. Immunoreactive neuronal NOS was present in somatostatin cells, in nonendocrine cells predominating in the surface and pit epithelium, and in rare nerve fibers. Endothelial cell NOS was present in vessels, whereas the inducible isoform was barely detectable. Thus, endogenous NOS isoforms participate in regulating antropyloric epithelial apoptosis during starvation. The close paracrine relation between somatostatin cells and gastrin cells suggests that the former regulates apoptosis of the latter through release of NO.
Localization of Monoamine Oxidase A and B in Human Pancreas, Thyroid, and Adrenal Glands
Authors: Rodríguez Manuel J. , Saura Josep , Finch Cheryl C. , Mahy Nicole , Billett Ellen E.
Published: November 2015

We studied monoamine oxidase (MAO) A and B localization in human pancreas, thyroid gland, and adrenal gland by immunohistochemistry. The primary antibodies used were mouse monoclonal anti-human MAO-A (6G11/E1) and anti-human MAO-B (3F12/ G10/2E3). Samples were obtained from six routine autopsy cases and fixed in 2% paraformaldehyde. Exocrine pancreas showed a widespread distribution of MAO-A, whereas MAO-B was present only in centroacinar cells and epithelial cells of pancreatic ducts. In endocrine pancreas, MAO-A was observed in around 50% of islet cells, whereas MAO-B was less abundant and was restricted to the periphery of islets. Thyroid gland showed strong MAO-A immunoreactivity in all cell types and was MAO-B-negative. In adrenal gland, the capsule displayed MAO-A but not MAO-B immunoreactivity, whereas the cortex showed widespread MAO-A staining but was MAO-B-negative in interstitial cells. Finally, in the medulla only a few scattered cells showed either MAO-A or MAO-B immunoreactivity. To our knowledge, these data represent the first study of the cellular distribution of MAO-A and MAO-B in the three human tissues included.
Novel Application of Tyramide Signal Amplification (TSA): Ultrastructural Visualization of Double-labeled Immunofluorescent Axonal Profiles
Authors: Büki András , Walker Susan A. , Stone James R. , Povlishock John T.
Published: November 2015

Fluorescent immunocytochemistry (FICC) allows multiple labeling approaches when enzyme-based techniques are difficult to combine, such as in double-labeling experiments targeting small-caliber axonal segments. Nevertheless, the conversion of FICC to a product visible at the electron microscopic (EM) level requires labor-intensive procedures, thus Justifying the development of more user-friendly conversion methods. This study was initiated to simplify the conversion of FICC to EM by employing the unique properties of tyramide signal amplification (TSA), which allowed the simultaneous targeting of a fluorescent tag and biotin label to the same antigenic site. Briefly, one of two antigenic sites typically co-localized in damaged axonal segments was visualized by the application of a fluorescent secondary antibody, with the other tagged via a biotinylated antibody. Next, an ABC kit was used, followed by the simultaneous application of fluorophore-tyramide and biotin-tyramide. After temporary mounting for fluorescent digital photomicroscopy, sections were incubated in ABC and reacted with diaminobenzidine before EM analysis. Double-labeling fluorescent immunocytochemistry with TSA clearly delineated damaged axonal segments. In addition, these same axonal segments yielded high-quality EM images with discrete electron-dense reaction products, thereby providing a simple and reproducible means for following fluorescent analysis with EM.
Teacher Expectancies and the Label “Learning Disabilities”
Authors: Foster Glen G. , Schmidt Carl R. , Sabatino David
Published: November 2015

This study investigates the teacher expectancies created by the term “learning disabled.” Two groups of 22 elementary grade teachers were shown a videotape recording of a normal fourth grade boy engaged in various activities. Prior to viewing the tape, the control group was told that the child was normal while the experimental group was told that the child was learning disabled. After the presentation both groups filled out referral forms for the child on the basis of the tape. The experimental group rated the child more negatively (p<.001) than did the control group. It was concluded that the label “learning disabled” generates negative expectancies in teachers which affect their objective observations of behavior and may be detrimental to the child's academic progress. It is suggested that a system of remediation be adopted that is not based on categories of disability but rather according to the needs of each child.
Research on the Relationship between Reading and Vision—What Does it Mean?
Authors: Suchoff Irwin B.
Published: November 2015

Clinicians and teachers who want to pragmatically utilize research that has sought to relate various aspects of visual functioning to reading are often confused by conflicting findings. This article reviews and interprets some of the literature that has investigated the relationships between refractive status and reading and between binocular status and reading. These bodies of investigation are presented as being representative of studies that have explored the relationships between other visual entities and reading both in terms of basic research design and apparent inconclusiveness. The point is made that a major contributory factor to the general inability of the research to more definitively relate vision to reading has not been faulty design or statistical treatment but rather the way most researchers have chosen to characterize the visual process. Recommendations are made for more meaningful future research.
An Acoustical Study of Individual Voices in Choral Blend
Authors: Goodwin Allen W.
Published: November 2015

The purpose of this study was to investigate the phenomenon of choral blend by identifying spectral differences between vocal sounds produced in solo singing and in unison ensemble singing aimed at achieving optimum blend. Individual voices were recorded in isolation by having singers blend with the sustained tones of a prerecorded ensemble heard through earphones along with the singer's own voice. Recordings of the same singers producing corresponding sounds in the style of their solo singing provided pairs of sounds representing both modes of performance. In contrast to solo singing, those sounds produced in blend tended to have slightly stronger fundamental frequencies in combination with fewer and weaker upper partials, and also slightly stronger first formants in combination with weaker second and third formants. The results may explain in part how certain commonly used choral techniques take advantage of particular traits of the aural perception mechanism to produce ensemble blend.
Students Look at Their College
Authors: Morris Cleve
Published: November 2015

Student participation in policy-making—now widely discussed—is found by Mr. Morris, staff member of the College of Education, University of Georgia, to be a topic of much interest among students of his institution. Where has their readiness to participate been put to the test of action?
“Like-Ratings” in the Prediction of Human Behaviour
Authors: Dodd Stuart C. , Klein Louise H.
Published: November 2015

This paper presents a testable modal and semantic theory about human actions. Prediction of human behaviour on the basis of answers to questions requires a close consideration of the modes of speech employed in the questions and of the relation of these to categories of behaviour. The classical categories of feeling, knowing and doing can serve as the basis for classification and questions can be phrased with reference to a “liking-disliking” scale of feeling, a “likeness-unlikeness” scale of knowing and a “likelihood-unlikelihood” scale of doing. The effectiveness of such “like-ratings” and hypotheses based on them can be tested by experiment.
Needle Temperature Measurement by Infrared Pyrometry
Authors: Laughlin R. D.
Published: November 2015

An infrared flux measuring device has been built and calibrated to measure the temperature of a sewing machine needle during operation. Resolution along the length of the needle has been set at 0.050 in. so that a temperature profile from the point to the shank can be obtained during sewing. A description of the cell, mounting, resolution, frequency requirements, and calibration is given. Results of a study of temperature distribution along a needle operating in cloth are discussed.
Heats of Dyeing of Direct Cotton Dyes on Cellulose: A New Thermodynamic Approach to the Determination of Activity of Direct Dyes in Cellulose
Authors: Daruwalla E. H. , D'Silva A. P.
Published: November 2015

Heats of dyeing of Chrysophenine G, Chlorazol Sky Blue FF, and Congo Red on cotton, viscose, and cuprammonium rayon have been determined. It is shown that, except for the initial low concentration of adsorbed dye, the values of heat of dyeing remain more or less the same over a fairly wide range of concentration of adsorbed dye, and that beyond a critical dye concentration, the values tend to decrease continuously when the proportion of the adsorbed dye is increased. Values for the critical concentration of adsorbed dye beyond which the values of heat of dyeing tend to decrease agree closely with values for dye adsorption at which maximum volume contraction in the substrate takes place, as observed from density measurements, and also with values of dye concentrations where maximum extent of oxidation of cellulose takes place during catalytic oxidation of the fiber substance by sodium hypochlorite in presence of the dye. A new thermodynamic approach has been developed to express the activity of the dye in a cellulosic fiber substance in terms of the fraction of the total sites occupied at a particular stage of dyeing. Based on this thermodynamic approach, affinity values of the three direct dyes for the three cellulosic fibers under different experimental conditions have been determined; the validity of the treatment is discussed.
A Study of the Effect of Cotton Fiber Structure on Luster
Authors: Holboke Lawrence E. , Berriman Lester P.
Published: November 2015

Cotton and synthetic fibers were studied analytically and experimentally to determine the basic cause of luster in fibrous materials. The analytic technique used provided a mathematical description of the interaction of light with a nearly ideal fiber, namely, glass. An instrument was constructed to measure the angle and intensity of light scattered from single fibers. A number of fibers were investigated in this way. The ideal glass fiber gave experimental data which correlated with those from the analysis. By the use of polarized light it was possible to measure the coherency of the scattering process, which was found to be a measure of the luster of the fibers.

Under suitable experimental conditions, it was shown that surface reflection from a fiber is the source of the luster quality and that a small degree of surface roughness is very effective in decreasing the luster. It is not known exactly what magnitude of surface discontinuity is most responsible for loss of luster; however, it is quite possible that ways may be found to decrease these discontinuities and so increase the luster of cotton to any degree desired.
Water Retention by Cotton Fabric During Centrifuging
Authors: Loeb L.
Published: November 2015

A study has been made of the parameters affecting the retention of liquid water by cotton fabric during centrifugal extraction. In addition to the obvious effect of centrifugal field strength, data are given on the effects of initial water content of the fabric load, surface tension and temperature of the water being expelled, thickness of the fabric bed, and others. The results are discussed in relation to a water retention theory based on the equilibrium between surface forces and gravitational forces which was proposed by J. M. Preston and co-workers.
A Physicochemical Study of the High-Sulfur Proteins from Oxidized Wool
Authors: Haylett T. , Joubert F. J. , Swart L. S. , Louw D. F.
Published: November 2015

High-sulfur proteins (γ-keratose) have been preferentially extracted from performic acid-oxidized wool with pyridine-acetate buffer (pH = 6.0). It has been shown that the γ-keratose is heterogeneous both on a charge and a molecular size basis by free electrophoresis, chromatography on DEAE-cellulose and calcium phosphate, and gel filtration on Sephadex. Four sub-fractions of γ-keratose which gave single peaks on electrophoresis and ultracentrifugation have been isolated by column electrophoresis. Thorough characterization has shown that these sub-fractions have very different physical properties and amino-acid compositions.
The Viscoelastic Properties of Oriented Nylon 66 Fibers: Part I: Creep at Low Loads and Anhydrous Conditions
Authors: Howard William H. , Williams Malcolm L.
Published: November 2015

In order to test the applicability of the phenomenological theory of linear viscoelasticity to semicrystalline polymers, creep measurements were performed on oriented nylon 66 filaments. Stresses used were 0.10, 0.35, and 0.50 g/den; the temperature range was 25° to 150° C; and the samples were maintained in an anhydrous atmosphere. Under these conditions, Boltzmann's superposition principle was found to apply. By employing time–temperature superposition and the stress relaxation data of Dunell, Joanes, and Rye [4], the creep compliance at 25° C over 26 decades of time can be obtained. Three dispersion regions are indicated; however, there is only a tenfold variation in compliance. The shift factors log aT, which give the temperature dependence of the master compliance curve, are linear in temperature from −100° to +150° C. These results on nylon 66 agree in general with the behavior of other semicrystalline polymers studied by Nagamatsu [8]. Although no molecular interpretation is given, the glass-to-rubber transition, common to amorphous polymers, is seen to be quite unlikely as a possible mechanism.
The Effects of Gamma Radiation on Cotton: Part V: Post-Irradiation Reactions
Authors: Blouin Florine A. , Arthur Jett G.
Published: November 2015

Purified cotton cellulose dried to less than 0.5% moisture was irradiated in a nitrogen atmosphere with high-energy gamma radiation from cobalt-60 at selected dosages up to 6 × 106 roentgens. Post-irradiation chain cleavages of the cellulose molecule on exposure to air were indicated by decreases in the viscosity of the irradiated cellulose with increasing time after irradiation. Post-irradiation reactions of the irradiated cellulose with acrylonitrile were investigated. Low yields of graft polymer were obtained on treatment of the irradiated cottons with pure acrylonitrile, 5% acrylonitrile in water, and 32% acrylonitrile in N,N-dimethylformamide. The effect of temperature in the 23°-100° C range on these treatments was investigated. High yields of graft polymer were obtained when the irradiated cottons were treated with acrylonitrile solutions in concentrated aqueous zinc chloride. The mechanical properties of selected fibrous graft polymers of cellulose–polyacrylonitrile were determined. Some irradiations were carried out in the presence of oxygen and moisture for comparison of these post-irradiation reactions. Results were discussed with relation to the production of long-lived free radicals in the cotton cellulose by high-energy gamma radiation.
The Mechanical Properties of Permanently Set and Cystine Reduced Wool Fibers at Various Relative Humidities and the Structure of Wool
Authors: Feughelman M.
Published: November 2015

The mechanical properties of disulfide reduced wool fibers and “permanently” set wool fibers have been measured over a range of humidities and times. For the permanently set fibers, it was found that at extensions in the yield region over the humidity range 20% to 100%, a fixed amount of stress, which is independent of relative humidity and time, is removed from the value of the stress corresponding to the same extension and humidity for a normal wool fiber. This fixed stress change is associated with ability of the crystalline β-phase in an extended fiber to reverse to the α-phase on retraction.

For disulfide reduced fibers a progressive reduction in stiffness was observed with reduction of disulfide content.

At 15% extension if Ft is the stress of an unreduced fiber at any time t and F't is the stress on a reduced fiber, then from previous results [9] Ft = ( a – br) ( t), where a and b are constants independent of t and the relative humidity r. The results presented show that F't may be expressed by

F't = ( a' – br) ( t)

where a' is a constant independent of t and r. Further ( a – a') is proportional to the difference of the disulfide content of the normal and reduced fibers. On the basis of these results a model that is an extension of the series zone model is proposed. It is suggested that the disulfide density of the matrix varies in a regular manner alongside the microfibrils in the fiber direction. Further, that the disulfide content and temperature, possibly by entanglement or disulfide interchange, control the “viscosity” of the differing sections of the matrix.
Catalysis of the Cellulose-Cyclic Urea Reactions by Built-in Acid Groups
Authors: Perrier D. M. , Benerito R. R.
Published: November 2015

Sulfonic acid groups in sulfonoethylated cottons act as built-in catalysts for the reaction of cotton with substituted cyclic ureas. The cotton in the acid form did not require an additional catalyst for its reaction in aqueous media with dimethylolethylene urea, dimethylolpropylene urea, dihydroxyethylene urea, and dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea. The strong acid groups of SE-cotton were more effective than carboxylic or phosphonic acid groups of carboxymethylated and phosphonomethylated cottons of like degree of substitution with each urea. Only the dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea was effective in a delayed-cure process which, compared to the untreated control and the SE-control, imparted improved wrinkle recovery properties.
Optimizing Cotton Blend Costs with Respect to Quality Using HVI Fiber Properties and Linear Programming
Authors: Mogahzy Yehia E. El
Published: November 2015

In this part of the study, mathematical linear programming is used to optimize cotton blend costs with respect to HVI quality parameters. Assumptions and limitations of the method are discussed, and advanced techniques such as sensitivity and parametric analyses are demonstrated. These techniques provide a range of optimal solutions for a given problem, offering a great deal of flexibility in implementing linear programming. The focus in this part of the study is on the quality constraints of individual HVI fiber properties and inventory constraints. The mathematical complexity of linear programming is minimized by illustrating its principle using a simple graphic method, and by focusing on the output of the simplex analyses rather than complex algorithms.
Improved Method of Producing a Cotton Covered/Polyester Staple-Core Yarn on a Ring Spinning Frame
Authors: Sawhney A. P. S. , Robert K. Q. , Ruppenicker G. F. , Kimmel L. B.
Published: November 2015

A new, better method of producing cotton covered/polyester staple-core yarn on a modified ring spinning frame is described. The method uses the concept of twisting a “sandwich” formed by two drafted strands of cotton (rovings) on the outside and a drafted strand of polyester on the inside, thus using a total of three rovings. The earlier method used only one cotton roving and one polyester roving [10]. The new method is simple and easily adaptable to the existing spinning frames; piecing of broken ends is also easy. A 67/33 cotton/high tenacity polyester staple-core yarn produced by the new spinning system is evaluated. The core of the yarn is almost totally covered with a firm sheath of cotton, giving the an appearance of a 100% cotton spun yarn. Compared with conventional yarns of 100% cotton and 67/33 cotton/polyester intimate blends, the core yarn is significantly stronger than the equivalent 100% cotton yarn and the intimate blend yarn of regular tenacity polyester. These yarns may be useful where a co-axial segregation of different fibrous materials is important or critical. The new staple-core spinning technology can be applied to produce yarns from a variety of core and sheath materials, such as Kevlar, PBI, Nomex, cotton, and wool, among others.
Optimizing Cotton Blend Costs with Respect to Quality Using HVI Fiber Properties and Linear Programming
Authors: El Mogahzy Yehia E.
Published: November 2015

In this part of the study, quality constraints in which HVI fiber properties are treated collectively are used in linear programming. These constraints are fiber quality index and yarn strength, and conditions associated with them are discussed. In addition, variability within cotton components in the blend is formulated into a variability constraint. Including such constraints enhances the optimization procedure and serves as a useful tool for controlling blend variability by including more of the less variable components in the blend.
Sequential Oxidative/Reductive Bleaching and Dyeing of Wool in a Single Bath at Low Temperatures
Authors: Arifoglu Mustafa , Marmer William N.
Published: November 2015

A new bleaching and dyeing process applicable to wool involves a sequential oxidative/reductive bleaching combined with a subsequent dyeing in a single bath. Apart from dyebath bleaching processes in which the bleaching agent is added towards the end of the dyeing process when almost all the dye is exhausted, bleaching and subsequent dyeing are normally done in separate baths due to the sensitivity of the dyes to bleaching agents. In the latter process, it is important that all bleaching agents be thoroughly washed off before dyeing, because any residual bleaching agent (hydrogen peroxide, reductive bleach) may adversely affect the results. The newly developed single-bath process begins with an oxidative hydrogen peroxide bleaching followed by addition of thiourea to the residual hydrogen peroxide in the same bath. Thiourea dioxide formed by the resulting chemical reaction hydrolyzes in solution to sulfonate anion and urea. Sulfinate anion is a strong reducing agent and effects reductive bleaching. At the end of the reductive bleaching stage, a small amount of hydrogen peroxide is added to oxidize all the reductive sulfur species in solution to the sulfate anion, which together with the urea serves subsequently as a dye assist. Once the temperature of the bath is lowered, dyes may be added to the same bath. The new sequential single-bath bleaching/dyeing process results in much brighter pastel shades upon dyeing, due to better whiteness obtained initially with sequential oxidative/reductive bleaching. Furthermore, there is a reduction in processing time, temperature, and effluent compared with conventional procedures and the utilization of byproducts from the initial bleaching assists during the subsequent dyeing step.
Substantivity of Various Anionic Surfactants Applied to Wool
Authors: Holt L. A. , Kelson J. S. , Reddie R. N.
Published: November 2015

Wool samples containing various anionic surfactants (alkylbenzene sulphonates, primary and secondary alkane sulphonates, and an olefin sulphonate) lose some of the surfactant to the treatment liquor when subjected to typical dyeing conditions. At the boil, equilibrium is set up within 15 minutes between the concentration of surfactant in the liquor and that on the fiber. The extent of extraction is influenced by the alkyl chain length of the surfactant, the pH of the liquor, and the bath volume. For many surfactants, less than 5% is extracted at a 20:1 liquor/wool ratio in the pH range 5–6. The presence of nonionic surfactant in the treatment liquors results in slightly higher levels of extraction. Exhaustion of anionic surfactants onto wool gives distributions of surfactant between the wool and liquor similar to those obtained when treated wools are extracted under the same conditions of temperature, pH, and liquor/wool ratio.
Thermoanalytical Ranking of Catalysts for Use with Polycarboxylic Acids as Durable Press Reactants
Authors: Trask-Morrell B. J. , Andrews B. A. Kottes
Published: November 2015

Thermoanalytical (TA) techniques were used to analyze several polycarboxylic acids (PCA) in the presence of each of three inorganic salts of phosphorus-containing acids used as catalysts—disodium phosphate, monosodium phosphate, and sodium hypo-phosphite. The influence of catalyst was measurable in differential scanning calorimetric and thermogravimetric analyses. Previously, TA data gathered on PCAs alone indicated that the acids that performed best in fabric trials produced large residues, low rates of weight loss/minute, and high total heats of reaction in J/g. Adding a catalyst to an acid increased residues and decreased rates even further. Total heat values decreased slightly in the presence of the catalyst. A mathematical transformation incorporating the three TA parameters into a single predictor factor was used to rank catalysts and predict which catalyst was best for each of four acids of interest to textile chemists. When this TA factor was compared with another factor derived from fabric durable press and strength data, the rankings agreed.
Handle of Weft Knit Fabrics
Authors: Chen Pau-Lin , Barker Roger L. , Smith Gary W. , Scruggs Barbara
Published: November 2015

Two groups of weft-knitted fabrics, single and double knits, were selected to represent typical summer T-shirts and winter sportswear such as sweaters and other knit tops. Two kinds of analyses were performed: subjective overall handle and primary sensory factors were evaluated using a 99 point polar-word scale, and physical and thermal properties were characterized using the Kawabata evaluation system. Regression analysis was used to relate subjective and objective measurements. The handle of single knits was strongly related to the perception of softness and lightness; the handle of double knits was influenced by the perception of slickness and tightness. Surface friction and weight were associated with the hand ranking of single knits. Fabric surface roughness and bending hysteresis were physical properties that correlated with the hand ranking for double knits. The handle of plain knit loop structures was rated better than that of tuck-loop knits. For summer T-shirt material, single jersey was the preferred choice; for winter sportswear, interlock knits were preferred to other double knits.
Air-Jet Texturing of Sirospun Yarn
Authors: Sengupta A. K. , Chattopadhyay R. , Sensarma J. K.
Published: November 2015

Sirospun yarns have been texturized using an air-jet process to improve the bulk of the parent yarn. The study examines the effects of twist in the parent yarn, as well as overfeed and air pressure during texturing on the properties of the textured yarn. When suitable process parameters are chosen, Sirospun yarns lend themselves to excellent texturing with desirable properties.
A New Approach to the Study of Textile Properties with Liquid Chromatography
Authors: Ladisch C. M. , Yang Y. , Velayudhan A. , Ladisch M. R.
Published: November 2015

A novel rolled stationary phase using whole fabric has been developed for liquid chromatography. This paper describes the column and its properties and use in characterizing pore volumes of the whole fabric. The logistic model gives a good fit of the measured void volume data obtained by size exclusion chromatography. With the help of this function, both pore size and surface area distribution of cotton and ramie fabrics can be obtained. The relationship between pore shape and surface area is discussed. Cotton has 100 to 200% more void volume and surface area than ramie (for all sizes of pores). Increasing the temperature from 30 to 60°C does not significantly influence either the total void volume or surface area of cotton and ramie. The void volume and surface area of cotton as determined by this rolled fabric column method are comparable to previously reported data.
Molecular Model for Polymer Fiber Behavior in Active Media under Load
Authors: Darinsky A. A. , Lyulin A. V. , Vaykhansky L. E. , Chereisky Z. Yu. , Dobrovolskaya I. P.
Published: November 2015

A model is proposed describing changes in the polymer fiber structure in active media under load. Characteristic times of diffusion, melting, and deformation processes are estimated. The two processes of media diffusion and deformation of the amorphous parts of the fiber play the main role in the structural changes. Optimizing the correlation between the characteristic times of diffusion and deformation can yield an abnormal increase in fiber lifetime.
Bispectrum Evaluation of Combination and Blend Yarns
Authors: Matsumoto Y. , Toriumi K. , Tsuchiya I. , Harakawa K.
Published: November 2015

The bispectra of combination and blend yarns made on a spun silk spinning system are discussed, along with bispectra of mathematically idealized combination yarns. For comparison, the bispectra of a random combination yarn and two types of pseudorandom combination yarns generated by a computer simulation are calculated. Furthermore, the effect of periodic yarn irregularity on the bispectrum is estimated.
Polymer Modifications for Improved Textured Nylon 66 Yarns and Processes
Authors: Southern J. H. , Nunning Walter J. , Miller Richard W.
Published: November 2015

Increased molecular weight and branching agents are used in melt spinning partially oriented nylon 66. The fiber solidifies more rapidly during spinning and has larger crystallites and increased elongation-to-break versus conventional PON, consistent with a stress-induced crystallization mechanism. When textured, the fiber produces higher crimp. Gains in both spinning and texturing productivity are documented.
Tensile Behavior of Adhesive Bonded Jute Nonwovens
Authors: Sengupta P. K. , Sinha A. K. , Samajpati S. , Bag S. C.
Published: November 2015

Higher bond rigidity between fiber/binder/fiber complexes in jute nonwovens may be derived from a binder of higher tenacity and higher initial modulus. Hot calendering can remarkably improve tenacity. Deterioration of the mechanical properties in nonwovens of higher web weight is associated with delamination.
Penetration of Alcohols into Wool and Hair as Studied by Fluorescence Microscopy
Authors: Jurdana Lucia E. , Leaver Ian H.
Published: November 2015

We have investigated a dye diffusion method for monitoring the penetration of solvents into keratin fibers. The lipid stain, Nile red, is a useful probe for this purpose. Differences in the penetration of aliphatic alcohols into dry wool, as revealed by the extent of dye penetration, correlated well with the known variation in sorption rate for solvent molecules of varying molecular size and shape. We examined the penetration of various animal fibers by t-butanol using the same technique. The cortex of human hair was readily penetrated by t-butanol, while the cortices of wool, mohair, and cashmere fibers showed no penetration under the same conditions. However, we did obtain evidence for penetration by t-butanol of the intercellular material between the cuticle cells of these fibers.
Formation of Iron Sulfides during Wool Scouring and Their Effect on the Color of Scoured Wool
Authors: McLaughlin John R. , Leonard Margaret M.
Published: November 2015

We propose that iron sulfides can be formed in the first bowl of a commercial wool scour. Under the low redox conditions recorded, ferric iron, a ubiquitous component of minerals on the fleece, is dissolved reductively to the ferrous form, which reacts with sulfide present either as residual depilatory on slipe wool or from degraded wool protein. The black iron sulfide may deposit on the scoured wool, making it dull and gray. The observation that some scoured wools become brighter and more yellow with time is consistent with the expected behavior of deposited iron sulfides, which slowly oxidize in air.
Filling Patterning with a Replicate Color: Maximum Increase in Minimax Magazine Movement
Authors: Dawson R. M.
Published: November 2015

Spare filling patterning capacity on a loom can be utilized by replicating one or more filling colors, which can increase the filling replenishment interval. However, with the magazine-type mechanisms used on shuttle and Sulzer-type projectile machines, larger minimax magazine movements, and hence lower machine speeds, could result. The effects on minimax movement of replicating one of up to five colors are investigated for the worst case. Each combination of an initial number of colors, degree of replicate-color vertex in the color-change diagram, and sizes of minimax magazine movements with and without replication is considered. Even in this worst case, about 53% of all forms of replication do not affect the minimax movement; the others increase it by only one step. The forms of replication that increase the minimax movement are specified. The greater the number of colors adjacent to the replicate in the filling repeat, the more likely replication will increase minimax movement, other things being equal.
A New Approach to the Study of Textile Dyeing Properties with Liquid Chromatography
Authors: Yang Yiqi , Ladisch Christine M.
Published: November 2015

Frontal analysis gives retention volumes of basic dyes on acrylic fabric, rolled and inserted into a liquid chromatography column. The retention volumes indicate differences in adsorption and therefore in compatibilities of standard dye mixtures. A simple and useful relation, Cv = Cvo + mR - Cv,0, results where m is a parameter fitted to the data, Cv0 is the compatibility difference between Cvo and Cv when R = 0 ( i.e., elution times are identical), and Cvo is the compatibility of one of the two dyes in the mixture. Hence, a new approach is proposed that not only allows determination of Cv using frontal analysis with an LC apparatus, but also defines compatibility in an objective manner as a continuous function.
A Model Analysis of the Compressibility of Fiber Assemblies
Authors: Komori Takashi , Itoh Motoyoshi , Takaku Akira
Published: November 2015

As a model of the bending unit of fibers, a curved beam is assumed in place of the straight beam used by many workers after van Wyk, and the compressibility of fiber assemblies is discussed on a previously established micromechanical basis. The analysis can reproduce well the real functional dependence of stress on strain of a mass using only its structural quantities such as assembly density, degree of fiber crimp, elasticity of the fiber, etc., without introducing any adjustable parameter. The numerical defect of overestimating the stress, which was unavoidable in the earlier theories of the van Wyk type, can be also improved appreciably by this approach.
Effect of External Lipids on the Process of Wool Yellowing
Authors: Wojciechowska Elżbieta , Pielesz Anna , Wlochowicz Andrzej
Published: November 2015

We have made an analysis of the lipids deposited on the surface of wool staple fibers divided into tip and base sections prior to investigation. The analysis is limited to a determination of free fatty acids and the ester fraction by gas chromatography and mass spectrography. The findings show that the changes in lipid composition, both quantitative and qualitative, depend on the location from which the lipids have been sampled.
Properties of Double-Core Twin Spun Silk Yarns and Fabrics
Authors: Matsumoto Y. , Toriumi K. , Tsuchiya I. , Harakawa K.
Published: November 2015

This paper is concerned with the method of producing a novel silk/cotton composite yarn with improved tensile properties. This “double-core” twin spun yarn is made by inserting raw silk continuous filament core yarns in both spun silk and cotton strands. The tensile and compression properties of a few other yarns with different structures and the crease recovery properties of the fabrics are discussed.
Analysis of Blend Irregularity in Yarns Using Image Processing: Part II: Applying the System to Actual Blended Yarns
Authors: Watanabe Akira , Kurosaki Shi-Nya , Konda Fujio , Nishimura Yoshiro
Published: November 2015

Image processing has been applied to actual blended yarns made from wool/wool and wool/mohair, and the blend state (fiber arrangement) of the yarns analyzed. Yarn about 4 mm long (310 pixels) was processed in each image. The projected area of white and black fibers on the yarn surfaces, the blend ratios, and the sizes of clusters were determined. Further, when several scores of yarn images laid in a row were put into the system, blend irregularity curves could be obtained. From these curves, variance-length curves of blend irregularity were calculated, and a total variance, average values, etc., were determined. The analysis showed that the wool/wool yarn was well blended compared with the wool/mohair, because the former was smaller in blend ratio variance than the latter, was also smaller in cluster size and its variance, and further was smaller in the total variance of the variance-length curve for blend irregularity. With this system, such differences in the blend state of an actual blended yarn, which can hardly be distinguished with the naked eye, can be estimated.
Dyeing Rate of Nylon 6 Fabric and Yarn Assemblies with p-Aminoazobenzene
Authors: Sasaki H. , Morikawa H. , Araki H.
Published: November 2015

The dyeing rates of p-aminoazobenzene on nylon 6 fabrics and yarn assemblies at 40°C have been investigated. The apparent diffusion coefficient and the diffusional boundary layer parameter are estimated in such a way that the experimental data fit the theoretical rate curve based on the diffusional boundary layer model. Because the boundary layer parameter can be separated into two distinct components, the relationship between each component and the dyeing condition and the structure of the textile assembly is examined. The component concerned with the dye-fiber-dyebath combination or composition is subdivided into several groups. The component determined by the fluid-flow pattern and rate is dependent on the magnitude of the inter-yarn spaces.
Optimizing the Fiber-to-Yarn Production Process with a Combined Neural Network/Genetic Algorithm Approach
Authors: Sette S. , Boullart L. , Van Langenhove L. , Kiekens P.
Published: November 2015

An important aspect of the fiber-to-yam production process is the quality of the resulting yarn. The yarn should have optimal product characteristics (and minimal faults). In theory, this objective can be realized using an optimization algorithm. The complexity of a fiber-to-yarn process is very high, however, and no mathematical function is known to exist that represents the whole process. This paper presents a method to simulate and optimize the fiber-to-yam production process using a neural network combined with a genetic algorithm. The neural network is used to model the process, with the machine settings and fiber quality parameters as input and the yarn tenacity and elongation as output. The genetic algorithm is used afterward to optimize the input parameters for obtaining the best yarns. Since this is a multi-objective optimization, the genetic algorithm is enforced with a sharing function and a Pareto optimization. The paper shows that simultaneous optimization of yarn qualities is easily achieved as a function of the necessary (optimal) input parameters, and that the results are considerably better than current manual machine intervention. The last part of the paper is dedicated to finding an optimal mixture of available fiber qualities based on the predictions of the genetic algorithm.
DSC Studies of the Melting Behavior of α-Form Crystallites in Wool Keratin
Authors: Cao Jinan , Joko Kyohei , Cook John R.
Published: November 2015

The melting behavior of α-form crystallites in wool in an intermediate state between dry and wet is investigated using DSC for samples in various forms. The specific thermal characteristics of wool affecting its melting thermograms are identified. Silicone oil provides a constant thermal environment, with the melting and degradation endotherms readily separated for easier interpretation.
Characterizing Fabric End-Use by Fabric Physical Properties
Authors: Chen Y. , Collier B. J.
Published: November 2015

This paper introduces a statistical approach to predicting fabric end-use based on Kawabata kes-fb data determining fabric physical properties. The classification theory zbasis of discriminant analysis is discussed, and a way to establish classification criteria to characterize fabrics for clothing uses is demonstrated. The mathematical prediction model is described by a quadratic discriminant function that successfully classifies fabrics appropriate for suiting, blouses, and shirts.
Computational Two-Phase Air/Fiber Flow Within Transfer Channels of Rotor Spinning Machines
Authors: Kong L. X. , Platfoot R. A.
Published: November 2015

The pneumatic conveyance of fibers within confined channels is particularly relevant to textile engineering, with applications such as transporting individual fibers within rotor spinning machines. The channels of converging shape within these machines are designed to help straighten the orientation of the fibers that have escaped from the opening roller. This allows a satisfactory configuration of fibers to be presented to the spinning rotor surface, which in turn improves yarn and subsequent fabric properties. In this study, a new air/fiber two-phase model is developed to simulate fiber movement within confined channels. The computation is based on the results from single-phase air flow simulations in a one-way coupling Lagrangian strategy for predicting fiber trajectories. Initial fiber position and the underlying air flow pattern are demonstrated to be critical to the final fiber configuration at the exit of the channel. A streamwise straight fiber tends to generate a leading hook, while a cross fiber is subject to bending. The aerodynamic forces very nearly retain the fiber configuration adopted at the channel inlet without significant improvement of fiber straightness, since hooks are simultaneously generated and eliminated during transport. Fiber opening and fiber detachment from the opening roller are identified as the two critical factors in obtaining straight fibers at the channel inlet and their transport to the spinning zone.
Heat and Mass Transfer Analysis of Fabric in the Tenter Frame
Authors: Park Sang Il , Baik Doo Hyun
Published: November 2015

A mathematical model is developed for heat and mass transfer analysis of fabric in the tenter frame. Using the model, the calculated transient fabric temperatures in the tenter frame agree well with the experimental values measured by Beard. Variations in temperature and moisture content distribution are solved using the finite-difference method. The effects of operation parameters, such as temperature and humidity in the tenter, initial moisture content of the fabric, and heat and mass transfer coefficients, are examined using the model.
Multilamellar Liposomes Including Cholesterol as Carriers of a 1:2 Metal Complex Dye in Wool Dyeing
Authors: de la Maza A. , Coderch L. , Manich A. M. , Parra J. L. , Serra S.
Published: November 2015

Studies are described of the use of multilamellar lipid vesicles (mlv) of defined size (400 nm) containing increasing amounts of cholesterol (ch) as carriers of a 1:2 metal complex dye to untreated wool fibers. We investigate liposomes made from egg phosphatidylcholine (pc) containing the CI Acid Yellow 129 dye (weakly polar 1:2 metal complex dye) at pc:ch molar ratios ranging from 10:0 to 6:4. The total lipid concentration of liposomes and the dye concentration remain constant (1.25 mmol and 1% owf, respectively). The physical stability of these systems is assessed by measuring the mean vesicle size distribution of the vesicle suspensions after preparation and during the dyeing process. Kinetic aspects involving dye adsorption and bonding on untreated wool samples by means of these liposomes are also investigated. This process leads to the controlled exhaustion of dye in wool samples, which depends on the liposome lipid composition. Increasing amounts of ch in bilayers result in a progressive rise in both dye exhaustion and total amounts of dye bonded to wool fibers. The diffusion properties of wool fibers as well as the smoothness of the dyed samples, given as a measure of their handle, also improve.