bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
Fatigue crack growth threshold as a design criterion - statistical scatter and load ratio in the Kitagawa-Takahashi diagram
Authors: Kolitsch S. , Gänser H.-P. , Maierhofer J. , Pippan R.
Published: April 2016

Cracks in components reduce the endurable stress so that the endurance limit obtained from common smooth fatigue specimens cannot be used anymore as a design criterion. In such cases, the Kitagawa-Takahashi diagram can be used to predict the admissible stress range for infinite life, at a given crack length and stress range. This diagram is constructed for a single load ratio R. However, in typical mechanical engineering applications, the load ratio R varies widely due to the applied load spectra and residual stresses. In the present work an extended Kitagawa-Takahashi diagram accounting for crack length, crack extension and load ratio is constructed. To describe the threshold behaviour of short cracks, a master resistance curve valid for a wide range of steels is developed using a statistical approach.
Promoting Young People’s Participation: Exploring Social Work’s Contribution to the Literature
Authors: Pritzker Suzanne , Richards-Schuster Katie
Published: April 2016

In the National Association of Social Workers’ Code of Ethics, social workers are called on to promote meaningful involvement in decision making among vulnerable populations. The ethical imperatives and social justice implications associated with unequal participation suggest that the field of social work is uniquely situated to lead research and practice in the area of youth civic engagement. This article examines the current state of the social work literature regarding how young people participate civically. Authors identified 113 articles on this topic published over the past decade in journals with a large presence in social work or by social work authors. They present the findings of their exploratory research, with a focus on describing where this research is being published, the range of research foci, and the terms used to describe this work. Increased attention to promoting youth civic engagement is needed in the profession’s core journals. Based on the analysis of this literature, they recommend moving toward a cohesive body of social work scholarship that includes increased collaboration among scholars, more unified terms and language, increased range of research foci and methodologies, and more rigorous and comparative testing of strategies by which youths participate civically.
Synthetic biology and regulatory networks: where metabolic systems biology meets control engineering
Authors: He Fei , Murabito Ettore , Westerhoff Hans V.
Published: April 2016

Metabolic pathways can be engineered to maximize the synthesis of various products of interest. With the advent of computational systems biology, this endeavour is usually carried out through
in silico
theoretical studies with the aim to guide and complement further
in vitro
and
in vivo
experimental efforts. Clearly, what counts is the result
in vivo
, not only in terms of maximal productivity but also robustness against environmental perturbations. Engineering an organism towards an increased production flux, however, often compromises that robustness. In this contribution, we review and investigate how various analytical approaches used in metabolic engineering and synthetic biology are related to concepts developed by systems and control engineering. While trade-offs between production optimality and cellular robustness have already been studied diagnostically and statically, the dynamics also matter. Integration of the dynamic design aspects of control engineering with the more diagnostic aspects of metabolic, hierarchical control and regulation analysis is leading to the new, conceptual and operational framework required for the design of robust and productive dynamic pathways.
Chromosome-wide simulations uncover folding pathway and 3D organization of interphase chromosomes
Authors: Michieletto Davide , Marenduzzo Davide , Wani Ajazul H.
Published: April 2016

Three-dimensional interphase organization of metazoan genomes has been linked to cellular identity. However, the principles governing 3D interphase genome architecture and its faithful transmission through disruptive events of cell-cycle, like mitosis, are not fully understood. By using Brownian dynamics simulations ofDrosophilachromosome 3R up to time-scales of minutes, we show that chromatin binding profile of Polycomb-repressive-complex-1 robustly predicts a sub-set of topologically associated domains (TADs), and inclusion of other factors recapitulates the profile of all TADs, as observed experimentally. Our simulations show that chromosome 3R attains interphase organization from mitotic state by a two-step process in which formation of local TADs is followed by long-range interactions. Our model also explains statistical features and tracks the assembly kinetics of polycomb subnuclear clusters. In conclusion, our approach can be used to predict structural and kinetic features of 3D chromosome folding and its associated proteins in biological relevant genomic and time scales.
Minimal Data Needed for Valid & Accurate Image-Based fMRI Meta-Analysis
Authors: Maumet Camille , Nichols Thomas E.
Published: April 2016

Meta-analysis is a powerful statistical tool to combine results from a set of studies. When image data is available for each study, a number of approaches have been proposed to perform such meta-analysis including combination of standardised statistics, just effect estimates or both effects estimates and their sampling variance. While the latter is the preferred approach in the statistical community, often only standardised estimates are shared, reducing the possible meta-analytic approaches. Given the growing interest in data sharing in the neuroimaging community there is a need to identify what is the minimal data to be shared in order to allow for future image-based meta-analysis. In this paper, we compare the validity and the accuracy of eight meta-analytic approaches on simulated and real data. In one-sample tests, combination of contrast estimates into a random-effects General Linear Model or non-parametric statistics provide a good approximation of the reference approach. If only standardised statistical estimates are shared, permutations of z-score is the preferred approach.
TwoN-(2-phenylethyl)nitroaniline derivatives as precursors for slow and sustained nitric oxide release agents
Authors: Badour Alec R. , Wisniewski John A. , Mohanty Dillip K. , Squattrito Philip J.
Published: April 2016

Notwithstanding its simple structure, the chemistry of nitric oxide (NO) is complex. As a radical, NO is highly reactive. NO also has profound effects on the cardiovascular system. In order to regulate NO levels, direct therapeutic interventions include the development of numerous NO donors. Most of these donors release NO in a single high-concentration burst, which is deleterious.N-Nitrosated secondary amines release NO in a slow, sustained, and rate-tunable manner. Two new precursors to sustained NO-releasing materials have been characterized.N-[2-(3,4-Dimethoxyphenyl)ethyl]-2,4-dinitroaniline, C16H17N3O6, (I), crystallizes with one independent molecule in the asymmetric unit. The adjacent amine and nitro groups form an intramolecular N—H...O hydrogen bond. Theanticonformation about the phenylethyl-to-aniline C—N bond leads to the planes of the arene and aniline rings being approximately perpendicular. Molecules are linked into dimers by weak intermolecular N—H...O hydrogen bonds such that each amine H atom participates in a three-center interaction with two nitro O atoms. The dimers pack so that the arene rings of adjacent molecules are not parallel and π–π interactions do not appear to be favored.N-(4-Methylsulfonyl-2-nitrophenyl)-L-phenylalanine, C16H16N2O6S, (II), with an optically active center, also crystallizes with one unique molecule in the asymmetric unit. The L enantiomer was establishedviathe configuration of the starting material and was confirmed by refinement of the Flack parameter. As in (I), there is an intramolecular N—H...O hydrogen bond between adjacent amine and nitro groups. The conformation of the molecule is such that the arene rings display a dihedral angle ofca60°. Unlike (I), molecules are not linkedviaintermolecular N—H...O hydrogen bonds. Rather, the carboxylic acid H atom forms a classic, approximately linear, O—H...O hydrogen bond with a sulfone O atom. Pairs of molecules related by twofold rotation axes are linked into dimers by two such interactions. The packing pattern features a zigzag arrangement of the arene rings without apparent π–π interactions. These structures are compared with reported analogues, revealing significant differences in molecular conformation, intermolecular interactions, and packing that result from modest changes in functional groups. The structures are discussed in terms of potential NO-release capability.
The role of corporate image and switching barriers in the service evaluation process
Authors: Giovanis Apostolos , Athanasopoulou Pinelopi , Tsoukatos Evangelos
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to better predict customers’ behavioral intentions (BI) by developing and empirically testing an integrative conceptual framework that allows us to investigate the mediating role of corporate image (CI) and switching barriers (SB) in the interrelationships among service evaluation constructs (i.e. service quality (SQ), perceived value and customer satisfaction (CS)) and customers’ future intentions. These relationships are explored in the mobile telecommunications service context.

Design/methodology/approach

– Around 1,000 customers of mobile telecommunication services were questioned using a structured questionnaire. To test the proposed hypotheses, a model was constructed and estimated using the method of partial least squares path methodology.

Findings

– Findings indicate that the provision of high-SQ and the creation of superior value, through the development of reasonable costs, can result in high-CS; enhanced CI, and either directly or indirectly through SB, in customers’ favorable BI. However, given the price-competitive structure of the industry under investigation, customers’ loyalty decisions are mainly based on service-related criteria. The value of and satisfaction from delivered services are far more important decision criteria, than image and SB.

Research limitations/implications

– This study was limited to one service setting and the proposed model should be cross-validated in other service contexts before the relationships among its components are fully clarified. Also the use of cross-section design reduces inference ability regarding temporal changes in research constructs.

Practical implications

– Results suggest that marketers, in their effort to develop more customer-oriented marketing plans in mature markets, should consider both the pool-in factors, reflecting the value of the provided services; CS, and CI, and the interactions among them as well as with the push-back factors, reflecting SB, as they all impact on customers’ BI.

Originality/value

– This paper contributes to the body of existing knowledge by considering both CI and SB, along with other service evaluation constructs, as antecedents of consumers’ BI. The interrelationships among SB, service evaluation and CI has not been adequately addressed in the existing literature.
The future prospects of Islamic banking in Tunisia: an empirical survey
Authors: Echchabi Abdelghani , Azouzi Dhekra , Aziz Hassanuddeen Abd.
Published: April 2016

Purpose

– The purpose of this paper is to examine the readiness of the Tunisian customers to adopt Islamic banking services, and the factors that might influence their decision.

Design/methodology/approach

– A total of 100 questionnaires were randomly distributed to Tunisian banking customers. structural equation modelling and one samplet-test were subsequently applied.

Findings

– The results revealed that the attitude dimensions have a significant impact on the Tunisian customers’ intention to adopt Islamic banking services. On the other hand, the results have also shown that the Tunisian customers are willing to shift to Islamic banking services.

Originality/value

– These findings have significant contributions that are discussed thereinafter.
Organizational culture and green management: innovative way ahead in hotel industry
Authors: Scholz Petr , Voracek Jan
Published: April 2016

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to identify perspective and feasible combinations of the existing revenue-driven methods with still more pervasive features of knowledge-based management and green management in hotel industry. The authors believe that the key path to success is in even closer, that is, daily personal orientation on customers, specifically on their satisfaction in both functional and emotional dimensions.

Design/methodology/approach

A research prototype of competitiveness modelling framework can be fully implemented in accordance with the methodology, proposed by Mitroff and Kilmann (1978). The key output of our conceptual modelling stage was causal loop diagram, showing relations among internal variables and determining overall dynamics of analyzed problem. In the implementation phase, the authors adopted system dynamics (SD) paradigm, which composes system behaviour from parametrically adjustable temporal accumulation of levels of internal resources. These resources (stocks) can be both quantitative (money, employees, services) and qualitative (trust, motivation, quality). After parameterization and validation, SD models are used for the analysis of real-world situations.

Findings

With the resultant interactive SD model, the authors designed and tested several scenarios, comparing the purely revenue-oriented hotel management with its customers-oriented and organizational knowledge-supported enhancement. The authors’ experiments showed that the proposed extension can contribute to the overall performance up to 15 per cent. According to the experimental findings, the primary reasons for the improvement are higher ratio of regularly returning customers and improved efficiency of internal processes as a result of continuous organizational learning.

Originality/value

So far, hotel managers use mainly simple analytic and planning tools, which cannot cover the practical complexity of surrounding market and internal processes. In comparison with purely revenue-based principles, advanced managerial practices, considering also qualitative and human-related matters, require additional viewpoints. The authors enhanced the hospitality domain with the introduction of dynamic hypotheses – feasible explanations of temporal behaviour of complex structures.
How audacious strategies pay off during hard times
Authors: Kailasam Murali , Wongsurawat Winai
Published: April 2016

Purpose

This paper aims to identify strategies used by companies during the recent global recession and to investigate the effectiveness of offensive and defensive strategies. It also investigates how these different types of strategies are sequenced.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper draws on cases from seven publicly listed Indian information technology (IT) and information technology-enabled services (ITESs) companies. This longitudinal study draws on 32 semi-structured interviews with top management. The data were triangulated using annual and quarterly reports, emails, organization profiles and customer satisfaction reports.

Findings

Offensive and defensive strategic responses were deployed concurrently, not sequentially. Offensive responses were crucial in turning around a firm. Identical strategies can yield different results in product and service companies.

Research limitations/implications

The findings of this paper should be generalized with care because of the sampling scope. Future studies should include quantitative research over different recession periods.

Practical implications

The paper provides insights for practitioners on how to respond to economic recession and prepare for recovery.

Originality/value

The paper enriches the corporate turnaround and business cycle management literature by analyzing the behavior of firms from India and from the high-tech industry.
Intention to participate in online commercial experiments by social network’s users
Authors: Cordero-Gutiérrez Rebeca , Santos-Requejo Libia
Published: April 2016

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to analyze the underlying differences in the intention to participate in online commercial experiments through the social network considering users’ gender and age.

Design/methodology/approach

The model of this paper uses two relevant variables, trust and attitude, to test the behavioral intention. There were 269 data sets from social network’s users. Factorial analysis and linear regression were used in the analysis of the data obtained to investigate the differences in gender and age in the intention to participate in online commercial experiments.

Findings

The results of this paper show that there exist differences among women and men, and among youthers and adults. Women and youthers are the most desirable groups to conduct commercial experiments through social networks.

Research limitations/implications

From the point of view of the academics, this paper increases the knowledge of social network’s possibilities as a marketing tool.

Practical implications

This study and its conclusions are relevant for entrepreneurs in any field who want to reach their customers through a horizontal social network because they can improve the online experiments’ profit. Entrepreneurs can know and understand their customers better, taking into account their wishes, tastes and interests through when participating in a commercial experiment.

Originality/value

This paper describes the possibilities that social networks like Facebook offer entrepreneurs to know the intention of users to participate in an online commercial experiment. Moreover, the differences in gender and age allow in adapting the contents of the online commercial experiments to get better results. In addition, this research contributes to the investigation in the possibilities of social networks as marketing tools.
Parameters Influencing the Dyeing of Polyester Microfibres
Authors: Chong C.L. , Yeung K.W. , Cui Z.Y.
Published: April 2016

The dyeing of polyester microfibres with both high energy and low energy disperse dyes has been investigated. The results show the rate of exhaustion on these fibres are more rapid than on regular polyester fibres with no corresponding increase in the colour yield. With the low energy dye, a wide fluctuation in the amount of dye exhausted during dyeing was observed. It is postulated that changes in the degree of crystallinity of microfibres could attribute to such phenomenon.
Surface modification of polyester by low temperature plasma treatment and its effect on coloration
Authors: Yeung K.W. , Chan K. , Zhang Q. , Wang S.Y.
Published: April 2016

The effect of low temperature plasma (LTP) on polyester (PET) is investigated by examining the changes in the dyeing properties of treated PET fabrics. An optimum condition for LTP treatment is determined by orthogonal analysis and this treatment condition was used through out the study. After LTP treatment, the PET fabric samples exhibit better hydrophilicity and the dyeability of the fabric is increased and such improvement is more pronounced in the case of high energy disperse dyes. Scanning electron microscope (SEM) observation also reveals that the surface of the treated PET fibre becomes rough with the formation of microtroughs.
Sensory Comfort: Fabric Transport Properties and Subjective Responses During Exercise Under Cool and Hot Environmental Conditions
Authors: Li Yi
Published: April 2016

Eight kinds of knitted fabrics, made from wool, polyester, cotton, acrylic, porous acrylic, polypropylene, viscose and polyester/cotton blend, were studied by both objective laboratory measurements and subjective wearer trials. The transport properties of the fabrics: thermal resistance, water vapor permeability, air permeability, demand wettability, water absorbency (drop wettability) and water evaporation propensity were measured. The psychological responses of subjects for the 8 kinds of fabrics were obtained in a series of psychophysiological wearer trials, in which subjective responses to 19 clothing sensations were recorded and their overall preference votes to 8 kinds of garments made from the fabrics were obtained. Significant differences were found for all the transport properties measured on the 8 kinds of fabrics.

By Spearman rank correlation analysis, it has been found that the overall preference votes after wearing in hot and Cool conditions were significantly correlated with drop and demand wettability and thermal resistance of fabrics. The thermal-wet sensations were mainly
correlated with thermal resistance, water evaporation rate, water vapor and air permeability. The tactile sensations showed high correlation with thermal resistance, drop and demand wettabilities of fabrics, and also there were close correlations between body-fit sensations and demand and drop wettabilities, water evaporation rate of fabrics.
China’s Apparel Imports from the Developed Countries
Authors: Zhang Zhiming , Wang Yueping
Published: April 2016

Apparel imports of China from the world, especially from the OECD countries, are investigated in this paper. The relationship between apparel imports of China and personal income of its people is examined with a simple OLS regression model, and it is found that the imports are significantly influenced by income level, and the imports are income elastic, thus predicting accelerated growth of imports as income is expected to rise. Reasons for such imports are analyzed, and it is believed that the theory of preference similarity can be applied in conjunction with rising income level and increasing income inequality. In addition, implications of growing imports to both domestic and foreign apparel manufacturers are analyzed. Information of the paper should be of interest to policy makers and of use to apparel producers and marketers.
Properties Of Pneumatic Spliced Short-Staple Ring Spun Yarns
Authors: Lam H.L.I. , Cheng K.P.S.
Published: April 2016

The properties of the spliced strength, bending rigidity and hysteresis of a splice under different splicing conditions have been investigated. The results shown that, the levels of importance for different spliced yam properties are different. However, the length of the yam tails for splicing has the most important effect on the tested spliced yam properties.
The Enzyme Washing on Silk Fabrics
Authors: Cheng K.P. , Poon C.F. , Au C.K. , Tsun S.C.
Published: April 2016

An investigational study is carried out with an objective to have a preliminary understanding on the properties of washed silk fabric by varying the enzyme dosage level and treatment time. From the existing results, it is recommended that the dosage level of the enzyme should be carefully controlled if the industry want to adopt this technology. Otherwise the tensile strength will become too low.
Surface Analysis of Plasma Treated Wool
Authors: Kan Chi-wai , Chan Kwong , Yuen Marcus Chun-wah
Published: April 2016

Wool fabrics were treated with plasma under the influence of different plasma gases were assessed by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), X-ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy (XPS) and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy with Attenuated Total Internal Reflectance mode analysis (FTIR-ATR). Experimental results showed clearly that the surface feature and chemical compositions of LTP treated wool were varied much dependable on the nature of plasma gas used and the variations were finally discussed.
The Design and Evaluation of a Clothing System for Use in the Care of Premature Infants
Authors: Kwok Yi Lin , Harlock S.C. , Tam A.Y.C. , Lo T.Y.
Published: April 2016

Based on the design of the garment described in Part I of this title, a hospital trial was undertaken with 10 premature infants. This paper presents the results of i) evaluation of the thermal regulatory performance of the garment and ii) a questionnaire on handling the premature infants when wearing this clothing system answered by the seven doctors and twenty-seven nurses who took care of the 10 premature infants involved in this research work.
Colour Difference Of Illuminant Metamerism
Authors: Chow Derek Fu-Shun , Chan Kwong , Chong Chau-Lam
Published: April 2016

Fifty-five metameric sample pairs were prepared using computer-predicted recipes from six different colour centres using cotton knit fabric. The colour difference of each sample pairs was measured using a datacolour Elrepho 2000 under the reference illuminant D6s, and test illuminant A and TL84. The colour difference of a sample pair under a specific illuminant is formed from three different components i.e. lightness, chroma and a* b* difference. Metameric colour difference should be attributed to the CIELAB a* b* difference and to a less extend of chroma difference but not to the lightness L* difference under the test illuminants.
Monitoring Service Gaps Part I - Examining Customer’s Expectations OfAdequacy And Superiority In Hong Kong Apparel Merchandising Business
Authors: To K.M.C. , Leung C.S.
Published: April 2016

The function of an apparel merchandising office in Hong Kong is to act as an agent or a representative for international apparel buyers to develop, source and procure large volume of regional textile and apparel products. This sort of offices conventionally provides professionoriented services, much characterized by high degree of buyer-interaction and professional identity. Because of its nature of individualism and operational autonomy, the apparel merchandising offices are seeking a novel concept of monitoring and improving their service
performance to retain their international buyers. In this paper, we discussed a case study in which a Hong Kong-based Australian merchandising office adopted an instrument to measure and analyze its provision of quality service. The instrument evolved and was refined pertaining to the well-known “Servqual” model, that measured service quality on the customer’s expectation-discrepancy basis. The result findings provided specific and proximate evidence for the office to assess the service quality levels and diagnose the potential service gaps, from the perspectives of buyers’ perceptions and expectations in use of apparel merchandising services. The research also provided insights for today’s management of professional merchandising service to achieve a more meaningful service excellence.
An Investigation of Physical Functional Design on Child Patients’ Garment
Authors: Wong W.K. , Kwok Y.L. , Chan K. , Yeung C.Y.
Published: April 2016

This paper investigates the design requirements for physical function on developing child patients’ garment. The requirements of style design for physical functions were collected from two questionnaire surveys through personal interviews with child patients and medical staff in the Queen Mary Hospital, the teaching hospital of the University of Hong Kong. Chisquare tests were adopted to test for associations between the responses and a range of variables. The style specifications include styles design for different age groups, sexes, medical needs, design details for top and bottom garment, selection of fasteners and accessories. The results generated ideas for the design of child patients' garment based on their physical needs during hospitalization.
Modeling of Tensile Recovery Curve of Woven Fabrics
Authors: La W.M. , Hu J.L. , Lo M.T.
Published: April 2016

Many researchers have studied the loading process of tensile stress-strain curve but limited report is found for the mathenlatical description of the tensile recovery curve of woven fabrics. In this study, with wide range of woven fabrics, an exponential function with three parameters is selected by using SPSS Nonlinear Regression method for the prediction of tensile recovery curves of woven fabrics. The predicted results from this model possess a very good agreement with the experimental data.
Effects Of Spreading-Table Quantities On The Spreading-Table Planning Of Computerized Fabric-Cutting System
Authors: Wong W.K. , Chan C.K. , Ip W.H.
Published: April 2016

Many researches have been conducted on the production planning problems. Recently, genetic algorithms have been applied to solve this problem. No studies have been discussed to solve the production planning problem in the operations of fabric spreading and cutting in garment manufacturing. A non-optimized spreading-table planning will directly causes poor work balance with idle time on the computerized fabric-cutting system. As a result, delay for delivery of cut pieces to the sewing operations happens. One of the factors greatly influencing the final spreading and cutting planning is the quantities of spreading tables installed. This paper presents a genetic algorithm (GA) approach to investigate an optimized spreading-table planning for the computerized fabric-cutting system and the effects of different quantities of spreading table on the spreading-table planning. The results show that GA is an effective approach to find out the optimized planning for the cutting system and predict the effects of different number of spreading tables on the production planning.
Modified Two-strand Spinning Part II: Geometry
Authors: Nonnan S. , Wang X.
Published: April 2016

Part 1 has dealt with the theoretical aspects of the modified two-strand spinning system. The application of a notch roller is the key modification. This part estimates the optimum geometry for the notch roller.
Relationships between Fabric Formability, Bias Extension and Shear Behaviour of Outerwear Materials
Authors: Leung M.Y. , Lo T.Y. , Dhingra R.C. , Yeung K.W.
Published: April 2016

This paper investigates the relationships between fabric formability (a fundamental measure of fabric tailorability), bias extension and shear resistance. The experimental investigation has been performed on a range of thirty-one (fifteen pure wool, twelve wooVpolyester blends, one wooVrayon blend and three pure linen) suiting and trousering materials varying in mass per unit area from 125 to 258 g/m2. Low stress mechanical properties measurements of fabric bending, shear and tensile deformations were obtained using the KES (Kawabata Evaluation System) testers. Furthermore, the 45-degree bias extension behaviour of these fabrics was measured using an Instron extensometer. Following Spivak and Treloar's analysis [12], the bias load-extension and recovery curves were analysed to obtain equivalent shear stress/strain hysteresis curves. The two measures of shear rigidity, one obtained from the KES shear hysteresis curves and the other calculated from the bias extension tests, have been compared for the series of 31 fabrics. Relationships between fabric formability (defined as the product of tensile extensibility under low load and the bending rigidity) and its shear resistance are analysed. In addition, the work also covers the investigation on the relationships between fabric shear properties and formability in bias direction.
A Single-Dye System for Wool-Polyester Blends
Authors: Chao Y.C. , Lin S.M.
Published: April 2016

The synthesis of a series of disperse dyes containing a carboxy group is described. The dyes were applied to polyester, wool and wool-polyester blend fabrics and their dyeing and fastness properties evaluated. The levelling and fastness properties of all dyed samples meet commercial requirements. The effects of the carboxy group on the colour, dyeing and fastness properties ofthe dyes are discussed.
Monitoring Service Gaps in Hong Kong Apparel Merchandising Business Part III: An Antecedents Study of Organizational Service Quality
Incongruence
Authors: To K.M.C. , Leung C.S.
Published: April 2016

Hong Kong’s apparel merchandising have long been regarded as a kind of buying professions that logistically support the international retail store buyers to develop, source and distribute brand-specific textile and apparel products in the highly dynamic global marketplaces. Its service is much characterized by the high level of buy-sell interaction, uncertainty in work nature and the sense of professional autonomy. Organizational monitoring of quality of such service provision is not so easily and explicitly specified and implemented. In this paper, we presented a case study, in which the potential organizational antecedents underlying the service quality incongruence were analyzed in a Hong Kong-based Australian apparel merchandising office. Through the case study, the sixteen quality gap antecedents and their sizes of impact could integratively and diagnostically be related to the service quality gaps that existed across the levels of merchandising office. The research results provided insights for today’s management of quality-conscious apparel merchandising service.
Fashion Brand Image Marketing: Brand Image and Brand Personality
Authors: Lee T.S. , Leung C.S. , Zhang Z.M.
Published: April 2016

Driven by the competitive environment in fashion business, marketers have realized that creating a favorable brand image is a key to win larger market share in its market niche. An understanding of brand image can provide better foundation for developing a more effective marketing program. However, the brand image literature in consumer marketing can be characterized as fragmented. Even the definitions of brand image lack consensus. This paper critically reviews the meaning of brand image and its related concept, brand personality, and discusses marketing implication for fashion marketers
STRAIN MEASUREMENT IN FABRICS. PART II: A NON-CONTACT METHOD OF DETERMINING FINITE STRAINS - THEORETICAL BASIS
Authors: Lloyd D.W.
Published: April 2016

Deformations in the plane of a fabric, because of their nature, are almost invariably expressed as "percentage extensions", i.e., as changes in length per unit original length. Such measures of strain only exhibit tensor transformation behaviour when the strains are infinitesimally small; this is rarely the case with textile fabrics. With the growth of engineering end-uses and related design techniques, plus the drive to achieve the virtual reality catwalk, there is a need for deformations of fabrics to be expressed as true finite strains. A method of calculating such strains from experimental data is described, based on the finite element stress analysis methods widely used in engineering. The method involves measuring the displacements during deformation of a grid of points marked on the fabric.
THE EFFECTS OF CHECK-SPRING TRAVEL ON LOCKSTITCH SEWING
Authors: Hayes S.G.
Published: April 2016

The stitch formation process of a lockstitch sewing machine has been investigated with the aid of transducers which facilitate real-time monitoring of the sewing cycle. It has been found that increasing the travel of the check-spring by three millimetres from the normal
position significantly reduces needle thread consumption per stitch and increases the peak dynamic needle thread tension. This change in lockstitch formation has a profound effect on the geometry of the stitch and the theoretical performance of the stitch under longitudinal load. The ability to reduce static thread tension settings after extending the check-spring travel can be employed as a remedy for tension induced seam pucker.
EFFECT OF WAVEFORM GAUGE SETTING ON YARN QUALITY IN A COTTON CARDING MACHINE
Authors: Ziwu Lin , Lau Man-po
Published: April 2016

This paper will discuss the new establishment of waveform gauge settings between the revolving flats and cylinder in a Rieter C4 Card. This waveform gauge has been set in seven positions within the carding region and concluded that they slightly reduce the number of neps and short fibres in the carded slivers which further improve the yarns produced. Similar results were obtained in the experiments applied to various grade levels of cotton and blends with polyester.
SHAPE MEMORY POLYURETHANE FOR SMART GARMENT
Authors: Mondal Subrata , Hu Jinlian , Yang Zhuohong , Liu Yan , Szeto Yau-shan
Published: April 2016

Thermal-responsive shape-memory polyurethane consists of two phases, a thermally reversible phase for maintaining a transient shape and fixed phase structure for recovering the original shape. The use of shape memory polyurethane in clothing is a novel concept. The aim of this paper is to introduce the application of shape memory polyurethane to smart clothing, whose thermal insulation value could be change depending on the change of temperature of the external environment to give comfort regardless of weather change. Thus a review on the shape memory polyurethane is introduced: the mechanism of the shape memory polyurethane is described; the difference between ordinary polyurethane and shape memory polyurethane, the research on shape memory polyurethane and its potential application to smart garment are summarized; the work being carried out in the Hong Kong Polytechnic University are also introduced.
IONIC CROSSLINKING OF COTTON
Authors: Hauser Peter J. , Smith C.Brent , Hashem Mohamed M.
Published: April 2016

Cellulose crosslinking is a very important textile chemical process, and is the basis for a vast array of durable press and crease-resistant finished textile products. Formaldehydecontaining N-methylol crosslinkers give fabrics desirable properties of mechanical stability (e.g., crease resistance, anti-curl, shrinkage resistance, durable-press), but also impart a loss of strength and the potential to release formaldehyde, a known human carcinogen. Other systems, such as polycarboxylic acids, have been tested with varying degrees of success. We have developed methods of forming ionic crosslinks that provide outstanding performance in crease angle recovery while completely retaining the strength of treated goods, without the potential to release any reactive materials of low molecular weight, such as formaldehyde.

Our work is based on the reactions of cellulose with materials that impart an ionic character to the cellulose; e.g., chloroacetic acid for negative charges or 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride for positive charges. These reactions produce ionic celluloses that can then absorb a polyionic material of opposite charge to form crosslinks.

Cellulose treated with cationized chitosan after carboxymethylation showed significant increases in crease recovery angles without a loss of strength.
RETRIEVAL SYSTEM OF AN APPAREL MATERIAL DATABASE: RETRIEVAL TECHNIQUE BY COMPOSITE IMPRESSION DEGREE
Authors: Masato Ishii
Published: April 2016

This paper describes a retrieval system of an apparel material database by CID (Composite Impression Degree), composed of several kinds of impression degree of textile material. One property of textile materials is expressed in Japanese using the term ‘Fuai’1 in Japan. However because ‘Fuai’ is expressed by specialized term, its meaning cannot be understood, except by textile experts. A retrieval interface for an apparel material database system has therefore been designed with retrieval words that have been selected from impression terms used in daily life, so that it is possible to retrieve a target material using neither a technical term nor a term like ‘Fuai’.

The attribute data of the database include the results of expert evaluations of the materials using the impression terms. Therefore the retrieval engine is able to search the database for the user's target material using CID calculated from the results of the evaluation. On the other hand, since each CID has been estimated by a linear model composed of some of the material’s components, the system administrator has come to be able to mechanically update the apparel material database.

To examine the utility of the retrieval algorithm, the prototype system, which retrieved a database in which data on 1,300 kinds of material were recorded, was evaluated. As a result, its utility was confirmed.
Net positive biophilic urbanism
Authors: Birkeland Janis Lynn
Published: April 2016

Purpose

Positive Development and Biophilic Urbanism appear to be grounded in a different human-nature relationship. Biophilic Urbanism builds on the theory that humans have an innate need to feel connected with nature, and explores ways to amplify its psychological and physiological benefits. Positive Development contends that development must proactively increase nature in absolute terms (beyond pre-industrial conditions). Hence it proposes a radical reconstruction of development design and decision making. Are these positions compatible?

Design/methodology/approach

A literature review revealed many similarities and differences between the two theories, and the views and visions among individual proponents of sustainability paradigms vary. Therefore, the comparison focused on the respective role of nature, a foundational element in each theory.

Findings

Biophilic urbanism stresses the individual’s experience of nature and its importance to human life quality. Positive Development stresses the preservation of species and ecosystems through the re-design of institutional systems and physical structures that increase the ecological base and public estate. Both viewpoints are essential to the whole system transformation that sustainability requires. However, if urban development does not increase urban nature and wilderness well beyond past/ongoing depletion and damage, the natural life support system will collapse.

Research limitations/implications

These paradigms are too complex to be represented in a brief commentary, so the discussion focuses on a crucial difference. Since many papers in this special issue discuss Biophilic Urbanism references, the emphasis here is on the lesser known theory.

Originality/value

These paradigms evolved independently and, as far as is known, this is the first time their essential messages are compared.
The Community Integration Questionnaire – Revised: Australian normative data and measurement of electronic social networking
Authors: Callaway Libby , Winkler Dianne , Tippett Alice , Herd Natalie , Migliorini Christine , Willer Barry
Published: April 2016

Background/aim

Consideration of the relationship between meaningful participation, health and wellbeing underpins occupational therapy intervention, and drives measurement of community integration following acquired brain injury (ABI). However, utility of community integration measures has been limited to date by lack of normative data against which to compare outcomes, and none examine the growing use of electronic social networking (ESN) for social participation. This research had four aims: (i) develop and pilot items assessingESNto add to the Community Integration Questionnaire, producing the Community Integration Questionnaire–Revised (CIQ‐R); (ii) examine factor structure of theCIQ‐R; (iii) collect AustralianCIQ‐R normative data; and (iv) assess test–retest reliability of the revised measure.

Methods

Setting: Australia.Participants: A convenience sample of adults withoutABI(N = 124) was used to develop and pilotESNitems. A representative general population sample of adults withoutABIaged 18–64 years (N = 1973) was recruited to gather normativeCIQ‐R data.Design: Cross‐sectional survey.Main measures: Demographic items and theCIQ‐R.

Results

TheCIQ‐R demonstrated acceptable psychometric properties, with minor modification to the original scoring based on the factor analyses provided. Large representative general populationCIQ‐R normative data have been established, detailing contribution of a range of independent demographic variables to community integration.

Conclusion

The addition of electronic social networking items to theCIQ‐R offers a contemporary method of assessing community integration followingABI. NormativeCIQ‐R data enhance the understanding of community integration in the general population, allowing occupational therapists and other clinicians to make more meaningful comparisons between groups.
Clarifying the Predictive Value of Family‐Centered Care and Shared Decision Making for Pediatric Healthcare Outcomes Using the Medical Expenditure Panel Survey
Authors: Lindly Olivia J. , Zuckerman Katharine E. , Mistry Kamila B.
Published: April 2016

Objectives

To estimate (1) family‐centered care (FCC) and shared decision‐making (SDM) prevalence, and (2) associations of FCC and SDM (FCC/SDM) with health care outcomes among U.S. children.

Data Source

The Medical Expenditure Panel Survey Household Component (MEPS‐HC), a nationally representative survey of the noninstitutionalized, civilian population.

Study Design

Secondary analyses of prospectively collected data on 15,764 U.S. children were conducted to examine FCC/SDM prevalence in year 1 and associations of FCC/SDM in year 1 with health services utilization, medical expenditures, and unmet health care needs in year 2.

Data Collection/Extraction Methods

We combined four MEPS‐HC longitudinal files from 2007 to 2011.

Principal Findings

FCC/SDM prevalence in year 1 varied from 38.6 to 93.7 percent, and it was lower for composites with more stringent scoring approaches. FCC/SDM composites with stringent scoring approaches in year 1 were associated with reduced unmet needs in year 2. FCC/SDM, across all year 1 composites, was not associated with health services utilization or medical expenditures in year 2. FCC/SDM year 1 subcomponents describing consensus building and mutual agreement were consistently associated with unmet health care needs in year 2.

Conclusions

FCC/SDM composites with stringent scoring approaches measuring consensus building and mutual agreement may have the greatest utility for pediatric health care quality improvement efforts.
Successful Transplantation in ABO‐ and HLA‐Incompatible Living Kidney Transplant Patients: A Report on 12 Cases
Authors: Rostaing Lionel , Karam Béatrice , Congy‐Jolivet Nicolas , Hage Valérie , Sallusto Federico , Esposito Laure , Doumerc Nicolas , Debiol Bénédicte , Guilbeau‐Frugier Céline , Game Xavier , Allal Asma , Kamar Nassim
Published: April 2016

Few studies have assessed the outcomes of ABOi/HLAi living‐kidney transplantation. We report a single‐center experience of 12 ABOi/HLAi living‐kidney recipients. Twenty‐seven donor‐specific alloantibodies (DSAs) (1–6 per patient) were found with fluorescence intensities of 1500–15 000. Desensitization was based on IVIg, two doses of rituximab (375 mg/m2), tacrolimus‐based (0.2 mg/kg) immunosuppression (started on day‐10 pretransplant), and 11 (6–27) pretransplant apheresis sessions (plasmapheresis, specific or semi‐specific immunoadsorption). By day 0, 17 of the 27 DSAs had become undetectable. After 19 (3–51) months, patient‐ and graft‐survival rates were 100% and 91.6%, respectively. One patient had an acute humoral rejection whereas three had a chronic antibody‐mediated rejection (CAMR). At the last follow‐up, kidney biopsies were nearly normal in seven cases (58.3%) and renal function was excellent except for the three cases of CAMR. Four patients had a BK virus infection. We conclude that ABOi/HLAi living‐kidney transplantation is a reasonable option for highly sensitized patients.