bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
INFRAGRAVITY PERIOD OSCILLATIONS IN A CHANNEL HARBOR NEAR A RIVER MOUTH
Authors: Bellafont Florian , Morichon Denis , Roeber Volker , André GaÃ«l , Abadie Stéphane
Published: February 2019

Port of Bayonne, located in SW France, is a channel harbor situated near the river mouth of the Adour. Long-period oscillations have repeatedly caused snapping of mooring lines of berthed ships and have led to wave resonances in an adjacent marina (seiche). To investigate mechanisms for generation of theses oscillations, a field campaign was carried out during a one-year return-period storm (Hs = 6 m and Tp = 15 s): four pressure sensors were deployed inside the port. To complement the data and to better understand the governing processes that lead to the wave transformations in Port of Bayonne, the storm event was computed with the Boussinesq-type model, BOSZ. The data confirm the model results, which show generation of long infragravity (IG) waves by the incident swell around the harbor entrance and free propagation of these waves without amplification over far distances inside Port of Bayonne. Excited by these long waves, resonance oscillations are only noticeable in a small enclosed marina. Though the IG-waves are not causing substantial changes to the water level along the harbor channel, they are suspected to excite the shipsâ€™ eigen modes, which consequently results in mooring problems.
COASTAL WAVE MODELING FOR JETTY REHABILITATION AT COOS BAY, OREGON
Authors: Lin Lihwa , Demirbilek Zeki
Published: February 2019

Coos Bay Inlet, located on the Pacific coast of southwestern Oregon, is protected by dual jetties constructed in 1928. Because the inlet is exposing to high energy environment, both north and south jetties have deteriorated since the initial construction. Aging, erosion of foundation, lack of effective maintenance, and channel dredging in the past have accelerated the jetty deterioration. To ensure navigation safety, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers is presently investigating the rehabilitation and redesign of jetties. This paper is focused on numerical storm wave modeling of the existing jetties to provide input forcing information to physical model and redesign of jetties.
EXPERIMENTS ON THE EFFECT OF FREEBOARD ON THE STABILITY OF A BREAKWATER CROWN WALL
Authors: Bekker Jeroen , Hofland Bas , Smith Greg
Published: February 2019

A crown wall is a gravity based structure on top of a rubble mound breakwater which gains stability due to its own weight and friction between the base and contact surface of the rubble mound. An experimental research is carried out in which the global stability of a crown wall is investigated depending on, amongst other things, freeboard. Until now, these structures tend to be designed in a too conservative way, when the vertical distance between base slab and water level (base freeboard) increases. It was concluded that current design methods overpredict vertical loads for increasing freeboard. By implementing a reduction factor for the upward pressure acting on the base slab of the crown wall, a better prediction can be made for the transition region between stability and failure.
EXTENDED BOUSSINESQ EQUATIONS FOR WAVES IN TWO POROUS LAYERS
Authors: Lee Changhoon , Vu Van Nghi , Jung Tae-Hwa , Huynh Thanh Thu
Published: February 2019

In this study we continue the work of Vu et al. (2018) [Coastal Eng. 139, 85-97] to develop an extended Boussinesq model that predicts the propagation of water waves in two porous layers. The first and second layer can be a water layer or a porous layer. The inertial and drag resistances are considered in the developed model. After being successfully validated against the analytical solutions, the model is used to simulate waves propagating over a submerged triangular porous bar. The numerical results show good agreement with the physical experimental data of Hsiao et al. (1998) [Proc. Royal Society of London A 458, 1291-1322].
LONG-TERM COASTAL EVOLUTION MODELLING OF LONGSHORE BARS
Authors: Marinho BÃ¡rbara , Coelho Carlos , Larson Magnus , Hanson Hans
Published: February 2019

An extended version of a numerical model introduced by Larson et al. (2013) to simulate long-term cross shore material exchange for the subaqueous portion of the profile has been developed. Efforts have focused on improving the model to better account for beach systems consisting of two bars (inner and outer bar), as well as simulating the feeder response over time of nearshore dredged material bars, intended to function as beach nourishment. The theory for the evolution of a single-bar to a two-bar system was modeled, considering an inner and an outer bar, where the outer bar is of primary interest with the purpose of predicting the behavior of placed dredged material. The cross-shore sediment transport rate is based on the evolution equation for the bar system response to the hydrodynamic forcing by reference to its equilibrium condition, where the change in the bar volume is based on a set of wave criteria, describing the onset of a new breaking zone when the outer bar forms. Empirical formulas are employed for the bar equilibrium volume and for coefficients determining the bar response rate. In this study, a description of the extended model and the results from the model component validation at two different sites in USA (Duck, North Carolina, and Cocoa Beach, Florida) are presented. Duck measurements have detected that some bars form in the nearshore and move all the way offshore (eventually deflating by non-breaking waves). At the same time, it was equally observed that a lot of inner bars formed in shallow water do not move offshore but remain as inner bars all the time. According to this, the developed model considers that the inner bar will not become the outer bar, but material previously dedicated to the inner bar will be available for the outer bar. Overall, the present study demonstrates the potential for using rather simple models, based on the definition of an equilibrium state that is compared to the current state and the magnitude of offshore wave forcing to drive the changes in the profile. The methodology employed here allowed to quantitatively reproduce the main trends in the subaqueous beach profile response in a long-term perspective as a function of the bar volumes disequilibrium, the magnitude of the incident wave height and the dimensionless fall velocity to move the sand with a time varying forcing.
COASTAL BATHYMETRY FROM SATELLITE AND ITS USE ON COASTAL MODELLING
Authors: BolaÃ±os Rodolfo , Hansen Lars Boye , Rasmussen Mikkel Lydholm , Golestani Maziar , Mariegaard Jesper Sandvig , Nielsen Lisbeth Tangaa
Published: February 2019

Offshore wind farms around the world are being developed with the objective of increasing the contribution of renewable energy to the global energy consumption. Bathymetric features at the wind farm sites have a strong influence on waves and currents, controlling the propagation and dissipation of flows during normal and extreme conditions. In this work we use a state-of-the-art cost-effective method for bathymetric mapping based on high resolution satellite images to characterize a coastal wind farm region and assess the added value of such data when performing wave modelling. The study area is characterized by the presence of offshore wind farms and a complex bathymetry that feature sand bars and channels. For this study, a satellite derived bathymetry (SDB) was produced using imagery from the Sentinel-2A satellite. The Sentinel-2a data allows for more detailed SDB retrieval than is available in the existing accessible bathymetric datasets. The data is then used in a spectral wave model (MIKE21SW) with different resolutions outlining the impact of large bedforms on surface waves, mainly due to wave breaking. The bathymetry data is also used in a phase-resolving model (MIKE3waveFM) where regular and irregular waves are simulated, outlining the impact of bedforms on individual wave dissipation. Discussion on the satellite derived bathymetry and wave models results are presented in this paper.
WAVE OVERTOPPING PREDICTION OF A GENTLE SLOPED STEPPED REVETMENT
Authors: Schoonees Talia B. , Kerpen Nils B. , Liebisch Sven , Schlurmann Torsten
Published: February 2019

Stepped revetments are multi-functional coastal structures o ering protection against flooding. Despite the fact that these structures have been implemented for more than 60 years, comprehensive design guidance is lacking. Previous research studied overtopping of stepped revetments with slopes ranging between 1:1 to 1:4. To address the knowledge gap of predicting overtopping of stepped revetments with gentler slopes, this paper presents results of physical model tests for a 1:6 sloped stepped revetment with step heights of 0.05 m. The tests were conducted in a 110 m long, 2.2 m wide and 2.0 m deep wave flume. A fit through the overtopping results is compared with the reference curve for a smooth slope of EurOtop (2016), which allows the determination of the influence factor for roughness ( gamma_f ) of the stepped revetment. A value of gamma_f = 0.74 (r^2 of 0.94) is proposed to be used in combination with the overtopping prediction formula of EurOtop (2016) for slopes under breaking wave conditions. The results of the study indicate a high slope dependency for gamma_f .
CLIMATE ADAPTATION DECISION-MAKING: THE GULF COAST PHASE 2 PILOT STUDY
Authors: Ramsden Jerald , Lennon Justin , Louie Benny
Published: February 2019

The Gulf Coast Study is an initiative from the U.S. Department of Transportationâ€™s Office of Sustainability to study the projected impacts of climate change on transportation infrastructure in the Gulf Coast region. The Phase 2 portion of the Gulf Coast Study was focused on the greater Mobile, Alabama, area with the purpose of providing detailed assessments of the performance of critical infrastructure under specific climate change threats in a coastal environment. This presentation will include a discussion of the Adaptation Decision-making Assessment Process (ADAP) that was developed by WSP in conjunction with the Federal Highway Administration (FHWA), (2016). The Gulf Coast Phase 2 Pilot Study included an Engineering Analysis of Climate Change Impacts and Adaptation Measures FHWA (2014) that followed the 11-step ADAP process. The process was applied to 10 case studies. Two of these case studies are presented, highlighting application of ADAP to coastal transportation infrastructure.
POST HURRICANE SANDY ENVIRONMENTAL RESTORATION AND RESILIENCY PROJECTS ALONG DELAWARE BAY
Authors: Lawrence Gwen L. , Kotulak Peter W.
Published: February 2019

Following Hurricane Sandy, the coastline of the Delaware Bay sustained damage and needed restoration in many areas. The Delaware Department of Natural Resources and Environmental Control (DNREC) received grants as a result of Hurricane Sandy to rehabilitate and improve the functionality, sustainability, and resiliency for several areas along the Delaware Bay shoreline. This paper is a coastal management case study of five of these areas.
ASSESSING CURRENT AND FUTURE NUISANCE FLOOD FREQUENCY THROUGHOUT THE U.S. MID-ATLANTIC
Authors: Kriebel David L. , Henderson Gina R.
Published: February 2019

Nuisance flooding, which causes public inconveniences such as frequent road closures, overwhelmed storm drains and compromised infrastructure (NOAA, 2017), has noticeably increased at multiple mid-Atlantic coastal locations in recent years. Multiple factors contribute to such flooding events, however mean seal level rise (MSLR) is a primary driver, due to its effect on increasing the exceedance probability of a given storm leading to flooding. Preliminary results show a tendency for a weakly non-Gaussian distribution of the extreme water level probability density function at multiple gage locations, which suggests that dimensionless extreme water level peaks (relative to the mean) will also be related between locations. Implications for both current and future nuisance flood frequency based on these distributions will be discussed.
ADAPTATION ASSESSMENT TO FUTURE BEACH LOSS DUE TO SEA LEVEL RISE IN THAILAND
Authors: Somphong Chatuphorn , Udo Keiko , Ritphring Sompratana , Shirakawa Hiroaki , Kazama So
Published: February 2019

Coastal erosion induced by seal level rise could become more serious problems worldwide (Hinkel et al., 2013; Udo and Takeda, 2017). There has been recent study regarding the projection of future (2100) erosion due to SLR in Thailand according to Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Changeâ€™s (IPCC) projection of SLR based on representative concentration pathway (RCP) scenarios. By overall, Thailand sandy beach areas are projected to be lost approximately 46% (RCP2.6) to 72% (RCP8.5) of its current condition (Ritphring et al., accepted) and the plan for its adaptation should be devised. Among variety of management strategies used for coastal protections, Yoshida et al. (2014) proposed a framework for a proper beach nourishment considering beach roles of environment conservation and recreation use and applied for Japanese beaches. Meanwhile, dike construction was adopted as an option in a global scale (Hinkel et al., 2013). Since there is no applicable adaptation framework to Thailand, this study provides a new framework to adapt to the sea level rise by cost-benefit analysis considering beach nourishment and dike construction as adaptation options.
HYDRAULIC INVESTIGATIONS FOR THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS DUE TO TIDAL ENERGY DEVELOPMENT
Authors: Kim Kyu-Han , Shin Bumshick , Seo Jinsung , Pyun Chong-Kun
Published: February 2019

New ocean renewable energy has been developing around the world for a goal of reducing greenhouse gas emission. Tidal energy is more powerful and it has potential for future electricity generation among several ocean renewable energies even though not yet widely used. Also tides are more predictable than wind energy and solar energy. SIHWA Lake Tidal Power Plant in South Korea is the largest tidal power installation in the world, with the total power output capacity of 254MW. The project was opened in 2012 and a 12.5km long seawall constructed in 1994 for flood mitigation and agricultural purpose. Power is generated on tidal inflows into the 30kmÂ² basin with the help of ten 25.4MW submerged bulb turbines. Eight culvert type sluice gates are used for the water outflow from the barrage. The amount of discharge flow in total ten of turbines is 3,000 m3/sec, and discharge flow in eight of water gate is 8,500 m3/sec. At the time when SIHWA Lake Tidal Power Plant was designed for construction, its flow velocity was predicted as less than 2m/sec in front of water gate. Accordingly, discharge flow should have no significant impact on navigation channels and several berth facilities. It also should not affect on ship navigation. However, within a year after the first run on April 2012, more than 2.5m/sec of flow velocity was generated and it damaged on navigation channels and berth facilities. Increased flow velocity at SIHWA sea area is directly impacting on ship navigation. In severe case, it will cause human and physical damages. In order to prevent these damages, it is necessary to find the causes and countermeasures of increased flow velocity for reduction in flow velocity of discharge.
FIVE KEY ELEMENTS FOR A SUSTAINABLE BEACH NOURISHMENT PROGRAM
Authors: Kana Timothy W. , Kaczkowski Haiqing L. , Traynum Steven B.
Published: February 2019

Beach nourishment is increasingly the preferred method for maintaining eroding beaches along developed coasts. Although the goal and outcome are generally the same from place to placeâ€”add sand and create a wider beachâ€” the underlying causes of erosion tend to be site-specific (Dean 2002). As a result, beach nourishment performance and longevity fluctuate greatly, often with uncertainty of outcome. To increase the probability of success in projects and drawing from 35 years of experience, the authors apply five key elements at the preliminary design phase, which have enabled development of credible plans at an early stage in each project.
MANAGEMENT PLAN FOR CLIMATE RESILIENCE OF COASTAL AREAS IN TOGO
Authors: Le Dissez Aurélie , De Croutte Eric Lagroy , Hamm Luc
Published: February 2019

Bight of Benin coast is highly vulnerable to climate change and one of its negative effects: sea level rise. It affects the coastal zones of Ghana, Togo and Benin. Within these areas, a substantial impact is expected not only on livelihoods but also on key infrastructure in coastal areas, leading to the destruction of coastal line and its habitats, socio-economic mutations and beach erosion increase. In Togo, the erosion retreat, due to improper coastal and infrastructure management, has been estimated between 5 to 10 meters per year during the period 1955-1985 and 20 to 30 meters per year during the period 1985-2009, forcing the coastal road linking LomÃ© to AnÃ©ho to be moved twice. Taking into consideration climate change, this figure will progressively increase. Under the African Development Fund 13th cycle (2014 - 2017), the African Development Bank (AfDB) is supporting the Togolese governmentâ€™s effort of strengthening regional integration through the financing of transport infrastructure, in particular the â€œrehabilitation of the corridor Lome-Cotonou and transport facilitation projectâ€. The main objective of AfDB project is to finance the related infrastructure and capacity building that will make coastal infrastructure, roads in particular, climate resilient.
THE 2019 TEXAS COASTAL RESILIENCY MASTER PLAN
Authors: Levitz Chris
Published: February 2019

In 2017, the Texas General Land Office (GLO) released the first Texas Coastal Resiliency Master Plan, an ambitious coastal planning effort to restore, enhance and protect more than 367 miles of coast and some 3,300 miles of bays and estuaries for the State of Texas. The lynchpin of the planning effort is its emphasis on shoring up the coast by using the latest coastal technology backed by research on Texas coastal environments, coastal hydrodynamics and morphology, and sediment supply, among others, in conjunction with federal, public, and private entity coordination. By championing a statewide Plan to guide the future of coastal management, the GLO will assure that Texas continues to restore, enhance, and protect its coastlines and communities.
MUTILEVEL METHODOLOGY TO ADDRESS CLIMATE CHANGE RISK IN PORTS
Authors: Izaguirre Cristina , Losada IÃ±igo J. , Camus Paula
Published: February 2019

Ports play an important role in worldwide economy, being crucial nodes on the global trading network. Besides, they are singular infrastructures with a long useful life that made them highly sensitive to changes in climate conditions (IPCC, 2014). Their location in coast, rivers or lakes provides high exposure to a wide variety of hazards including sea level rise, changes in extreme sea levels (waves, storm surge) or flooding. Moreover, port operations are susceptible to weather conditions that can lead to disruptions in the commercial activity and, thus, monetary losses. In this context, the development of risk assessment due to climate change and extreme events and adaption guidelines has become a priority for ports and, indeed the economies of countries. However, despite this concern on the part of the sector, to date there are few methodologies, tools or work done in this line.
OPTIMIZATION OF NEW BEACH NOURISHMENT CONCEPT FOR LANDOWNERS WITH PROPERTIES AT ACUTE RISK
Authors: Soerensen Per , DrÃ¸nen Nils
Published: February 2019

In Denmark it is the landowners responsibility to get a permit for coastal protection and pay for it. On natural coasts without man made structure, a new concept consisting of a sandbuffer with a sleeping defence has been implemented on two locations. The sandbuffer must ensure that the sleeping defence must be covered with sand at all time. The optimization of the sandbuffer is done numerically using Mike21 FM Shoreline Model, and by surveying the performance in Interreg project Building With Nature.
INTEGRATED MODELLING TO PREDICT LANDSCAPE EVOLUTION, FLOODING, AND WATER QUALITY IN JAMAICA BAY, NY
Authors: Smith Heather D. , Orton Philip , Sanderson Eric W. , Fischbach Jordan
Published: February 2019

It is well-known that rising sea levels will increase pressure along shorelines, yet how society and natural systems will respond is uncertain. Natural systems such as wetlands can respond dynamically to changing conditions, and recent sea level rise has been matched in many places with a rising marsh substrate. The societal response to increasing flooding by necessity is adaptation, particularly in areas with a higher population. However, the subsequent influences on flooding, habitat, and water quality have rarely been evaluated. Jamaica Bay, NY is a coastal embayment bounded on the south by the Rockaway Peninsula and the Atlantic Ocean, on the north by Brooklyn, Queens, and Nassau counties, on the east by the John F. Kennedy Airport, and to the lower bay of New York Harbor on the west through the Rockaway Inlet (Sanderson et al. 2016). The Bay perimeter is home to a large human population, as well as a variety of wildlife that live within the Bayâ€™s salt marsh and adjacent upland ecosystems. The Bay has been identified as an area where ecosystem restoration will potentially have a major impact for protection of the Bayâ€™s population, as well as enhancing the recreational, commercial, and ecological services the Bay provides.
PROTECTION AND IMPROVEMENT OF THE BARRIER BEACH OF FRONTIGNAN (HERAULT, FRANCE)
Authors: Coutos Marie , Hacques FranÃ§ois
Published: February 2019

Frontignan is located in south of France, along the Mediterranean coast at approximately 20km south of the city of Montpellier. The studied area is 7km long and is characterized by a sand barrier which separates the sea from a large lagoon well known for its ecological interest. In this area, the tourist traffic is significant and is vital for many economic and social activities. The studied area is divided into two main areas: 1) The urbanized area of Frontignan, long of approx. 4.7km, starting from the fish harbor to the Tamaris camping. The marina of Frontignan is located in the middle of this area which is protected by many coastal structures (groynes). In this area the barrier is 100m to 500m wide. 2) The less urban area long of approx. 2.3km.
ALBANY BEACH SHORELINE STABILIZATION AND BEACH/DUNE NOURISHMENT
Authors: Fenical Scott , Barton Chris , Peters Jeff , Salcedo Frank , Merkel Keith
Published: February 2019

The Albany Beach Restoration Project was initiated with the goal of stopping landfill erosion into San Francisco Bay, while creating aquatic habitat, and nourishing a pocket beach at McLaughlin Eastshore State Park, Albany, California. The site contains an existing sandy pocket beach which is unique to San Francisco Bay, and was formed by construction of the Albany Neck and Bulb, which was created as a landfill. Coastal engineering analysis, numerical modeling of coastal processes, and pocket beach morphology modeling were performed to evaluate and protect against erosion on the Albany Neck and prevent contaminant entry to the Bay, evaluate potential enhancement alternatives for the sandy pocket beach, and develop design criteria for living shorelines structures/habitat elements. In addition, analysis was performed to evaluate the stability of living shoreline structures, including a crescent reef with oyster shell nourishment, a pebble beach and groin system, avian roosting islands/breakwater elements, and tidepools.
EVALUATING THE CAPACITY OF NATURAL AND NATURE-BASED FEATURES TO REDUCE COASTAL STORM HAZARDS
Authors: Webb Bret , Scyphers Steven , Cebrian Just , Gittman Rachel , Sharma Shailesh , Rosati Julie
Published: February 2019

This presentation and paper describes the capacity of natural and nature-based features (NNBF) to reduce coastal storm hazards. Through a synthesis of existing literature and studies, as well as meta-analysis and traditional data analysis where possible, the salient characteristics and capabilities of NNBF at reducing storm surge, wave action, and erosion are characterized. The research specifically focuses on the capacity of aquatic vegetation, oyster and coral reefs, beaches, dunes, maritime forests, and barrier islands to reduce and/or mitigate these coastal hazards.
RAPID COASTAL ADAPTATION ASSESSMENT AT CITY OF ANNAPOLIS
Authors: Bain Don M. , Underwood Stacey , Laczo Thomas , Dowling Michael J. , Kriebel David
Published: February 2019

Alerted to the increased flood risks posed by sea level rise and potential storm surge riding in on a rising sea, the City of Annapolis is eager to better understand the extent of its coastline at risk, adaptation alternatives and typical costs previously experienced when such alternatives are applied. A rapid assessment method is developed and applied to characterize the coastline, survey the coastline for current and potential adaptation measures and develop a portfolio of potential actions with representative costs. A rapid assessment team is assembled consisting of private sector engineers and architects, an engineering professor from the U.S. Naval Academy and engineers from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. This paper reports on the method, activities and results to better inform stakeholders of increasing coastal flood risk and potential investment requirements for adaptation.
HOW VEGETATED FORESHORES AFFECT PROBABILITIES AND CONSEQUENCES OF DIKE FAILURE
Authors: Vuik Vincent , Jonkman Sebastiaan N.
Published: February 2019

Coastal ecosystems, such as salt marshes, mangrove forests and reefs, can contribute to flood risk reduction by surge attenuation, wave energy dissipation and erosion reduction (Temmerman et al. 2013). Such ecosystems can work stand-alone, but here we consider hybrid engineering solutions, where ecosystems are utilized as vegetated foreshores along engineered structures (Fig. 1).
ASSESSING NON-LINEAR RESPONSE IN EXTREME COASTAL WATER LEVELS
Authors: Hicks Betsy , Dhingra Emily , Batten Brian , Moss Alaurah , Mahoney Tucker , Asher Taylor , Gralher Christine
Published: February 2019

Rising sea levels and the resultant amplification of flood frequencies and magnitude has the potential to significantly change coastal flood hazards over the coming century. The Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) has recognized the potential future implications of Sea Level Rise (SLR) on coastal hazards and flood insurance. However, at present, FEMA does not incorporate future conditions information in to their regulatory or non-regulatory products in the framework of their National Flood Insurance Program. Many other programs that create products to support risk recognition and resilient planning are based on â€œbathtubâ€ approaches (for example NOAAâ€™s Sea Level Rise Viewer: https://coast.noaa.gov /digitalcoast/tools/slr). In order to better understand non-linear changes in coastal flood hazards, due to increased water depth and wave heights, or in the surge propagation pathway, FEMA has funded a series of pilot studies. For this study an end-of-the-century SLR condition has been imposed on storm surge simulations in West Florida to gain further understanding into how SLR may modify surge and wave effects, as well as potential techniques for approximating these via efficient approximate methods. Both the detailed nonlinear methods and approximate linear approaches for developing SLR advisory information will be evaluated and compared for this study. A second, mid-century SLR condition was utilized for a shoreline change analysis to evaluate how recession due to SLR may affect coastal flood hazards.
RISK ANALYSIS FOR COASTAL FLOODING UNDER CLIMATE CHANGE
Authors: Tsujio Daiki , Bates Paul
Published: February 2019

Climate change and increases in population density in coastal areas might increase the difficulty of coastal management decision-making. Although recent research has proposed several flood risk assessment methods in response to climate change, few approaches have addressed all significant effects. Therefore, this study aims to establish a thorough method to evaluate the risks of future coastal flooding events, including all climate change effects. The study proposes an advanced risk analysis scheme that covers all annual flood events during a target term. To confirm the effectiveness of the proposed model, this study applies the model to actual risk analysis in the North Somerset coast in the UK under 10 different cases.
DELAWARE BAY MISPILLION INLET ENVIRONMENTAL RESTORATION PROJECT
Authors: Kotulak Peter
Published: February 2019

The Delaware Department of Natural Resources and Environmental Control (DNREC) has received grants from Hurricane Sandy funding to rehabilitate and improve environmental functionality and sustainability for areas along the Delaware Bay shoreline. The Mispillion Inlet Complex near Milford, Delaware was one of the projects selected due to its importance as habitat for both American Horseshoe Crabs (Limulus polyphemus) and shorebirds, specifically the threatened species Rufa Red Knot (Calidris canutus rufa). The complex includes the Mispillion River and Cedar Creek that connect at Mispillion Inlet and provide access for tidal flow and navigation into the Delaware Bay via federally-authorized and maintained channels. Efforts to stabilize Mispillion Inlet first occurred in 1859 when a 560-foot long timber pile jetty was constructed along the north side of the inlet. In 1908 a south jetty was constructed, and in subsequent years, several additional jetty extensions were made to a total length of about 5,800 feet. In 1985, the barrier spit separating Mispillion River and the Delaware Bay north of the inlet breached and was subsequently closed with a stone dike and sand fill. Two years later, the repaired area was breached again, followed by placement of more rock and sand.
HYDRODYNAMIC MECHANISM OF TURBIDITY CURRENTS IN ESTUARY STRATIFICATIONS
Authors: He Zhiguo , Zhao Liang , Yu Ching-Hao
Published: February 2019

Water stratification commonly exists in nature, such as thermocline in lakes and oceans and halocline in estuaries and oceans (He et al. 2017). Turbidity currents in estuary often encounter stratified sea water, which may significantly influence their propagation and deposition. This study presents high-resolution numerical simulations of lock-exchange gravity and turbidity currents in linear stratifications on a flat bed. Laboratory experiments are conducted to validate the numerical model and good agreements between numerical results and measurements are found. The evolution process, front velocity, internal wave, and entrainment ratio are analyzed based on the numerical results. For a gravity current in a strong stratification, its front velocity can be maintained as a near constant state for a long time after an initial acceleration period because of interactions between the current and internal waves. However, sedimentation of suspended particles due to the damping effect of ambient stratification on turbulence makes a turbidity current quickly lose its structure so the maintaining effect of the internal waves on its front velocity is quite weak. During the evolution process of a turbidity current, the ambient stratification is found to damp the turbulent structures, and front velocity. Stratification can also decrease the entrainment ratios between a gravity current and ambient water after the initial period, but it has an insignificant influence on the entrainment ratios of a turbidity current. This study provides a better understanding of gravity and turbidity currents in estuary stratifications.
USACE PREPARATION AND RESPONSE TO 2017 HURRICANES HARVEY, IRMA, AND MARIA
Authors: Cialone Mary A. , Smith Jane M. , Rosati Julie D. , Follum Michael L. , Massey Chris , Condon Andrew J. , Thomas Robert C.
Published: February 2019

The year 2017 was an extremely active hurricane season with five hurricanes that reached major hurricane strength (Category 3 or higher) on the United States (U.S) or the Caribbean coast. This paper focuses on the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) preparation and response to the three most destructive events (Hurricanes Harvey, Irma, and Maria). Each of these storms posed unique challenges to the people and infrastructure in its path.
PROBABILISTIC TSUNAMI HAZARD ASSESSMENT AND DAMAGE ESTIMATION OF THE BUILT ENVIRONMENT: APPLICATION TO THE CASCADIA SUBDUCTION ZONE AND SEASIDE, OREGON
Authors: Cox Daniel T. , Park Hyoungsu , Alam Mohammed S. , Barbosa Andre R.
Published: February 2019

Risk-based damage estimation to the built environment from future tsunamis is fundamental for developing mitigation and evacuation plans. One of the challenging problems in the evaluation of damage from future tsunamis is that the uncertainty from the nature of tsunami itself (e.g. Magnitude, Epicenter, Fault slip distributions) and the lack of accumulated sufficient observed data for probabilistic studies due to the relatively small frequency of tsunami historical events. Even though tsunami modeling has matured over the past several decades and provides reliable estimation of tsunami hazards such as flow depth, velocity, arrival time, etc., questions remain on how to predict future tsunami hazards and how to estimate tsunami damage, especially for the engineers who want to design shelter-in-plate options or coastal planners who want to estimate the possible damage from future tsunami events on the built environment at community and regional scales. As a case study, we evaluate the probabilistic damage states of an urban coastal city, Seaside, Oregon from future tsunamis generated on the Cascadia Subduction Zone (CSZ). The methodology and the results are separated into two parts: (1) Probabilistic tsunami hazard assessment (Park et al., 2017) and (2) Probabilistic building damage assessment from the tsunamis hazards with a community scale.
NUMERICAL SIMULATIONS OF RIDGE ACCRETION AND ONSHORE MIGRATION BASED ON FIELD DATA FROM A STEEP MESO-TIDAL ENGINEERED BEACH
Authors: Song Youn Kyung , Figlus Jens , Chardon-Maldonado Patricia , Puleo Jack A.
Published: February 2019

Previously, the accretion of a slip-faced ridge and runnel (RR) system was observed during a 3-week field experiment on a steep meso-tidal engineered beach at South Bethany Beach, Delaware. Detailed measurements of wading depth beach profiles and nearbed flow velocities were obtained in the inner surf and swash zones along with offshore wave and current records. In the beginning of this 3-week field campaign on February 13, 2014 a Norâ€™easter eroded significant portions of the inner beach during this 1-day long storm event. Immediately after the storm during the less energetic conditions, the rapid formation of a pronounced RR system was observed which then continuously evolved over the duration of 2-week poststorm recovery periods. In the last day of the field campaign, 85% of the sediment volume eroded during the storm was recovered in the swash zone. However, no more evolution of the RR system toward the runnel infilling or landward migration was observed.
VEGETATION INFLUENCED HYDRODYNAMICS AND SEDIMENT TRANSPORT
Authors: Lou Sha , Chen Ming , Liu Shuguang , Zhong Guihui
Published: February 2019

Tidal flat is a transition zone between land and ocean. Vegetation in tidal flat can protect the coastal areas from storm surge and tsunamis by wave energy reduction. Tidal flat also can filter parts of the artificial contaminations and reduce the pollutants discharged into the ocean. In addition, interactions between vegetation and morphology over tidal flat have strong impacts on ecological regime and morphological evolution. However, there are too many complex physical processes involving in the interaction among hydrodynamics, sediment transport and vegetation. Therefore, a flume study was carried out in this paper to study the effects of vegetation on hydrodynamics and sediment transport.
LARGE-EDDY SIMULATION OF OSCILLATORY FLOW, SEDIMENT TRANSPORT AND MORPHODYNAMICS OVER RIPPLES
Authors: Leftheriotis Georgios , Dimas Athanassios
Published: February 2019

In the present study, a well-resolved large-eddy simulation was coupled to a morphodynamical model in order to study the sediment dynamics induced by an oscillatory flow over a sandy bed, as well as the creation/evolution of ripples under hydrodynamic forcing. The simulations were based on the numerical solution of the Navier-Stokes equations for the flow, empirical formulas for the bed load, and the advection-diffusion equation for the suspended sediment. The evolution of the bed form was obtained by the numerical solution of the conservation of sediment mass equation. The Immersed Boundary method was implemented for the imposition of fluid and sediment boundary conditions on the moving bed surface. The model was effectively validated against laboratory measurements. Results are presented for ripple creation and propagation from a quasi-flat bed, as well as results of ripples adapting to water conditions.
PREDICTING THE EVOLUTION OF COASTAL LOUISIANAâ€™S BARRIER ISLANDS
Authors: Poff Michael , Alymov Vadim
Published: February 2019

The Louisiana barrier islands are one of the outcomes of the Mississippi River outlet changing over the past several thousand years. It is the natural shifts in the river channel alignment interacting with the combination of anthropogenic impacts, sediment transport, and significant storm events that drive barrier island formation and subsequent erosion and migration. Predicting the evolution of Louisianaâ€™s barrier islands is a critical component of Louisianaâ€™s Coastal Protection and Restoration Authority (CPRA) program for restoring and sustaining their barrier islands. Both empirical and numerical modeling approaches, as well as hybrid modeling approaches, have been utilized for predicting morphologic changes over time. These predictions have been employed for the development of single-island restoration projects, and for the long-term basin-scale modeling completed for the 2017 Coastal Master Plan (CPRA, 2017) for which Coastal Engineering Consultants served on the barrier island modeling team.
REVISITING THE ROLE OF AGGREGATION IN THE SETTLING OF COHESIVE FLOCS IN THE MARINE ENVIRONMENT
Authors: Mehta Ashish J. , McAnally William H. , Samsami Farzin , Manning Andrew J.
Published: February 2019

The settling velocity is the single-most important property governing the transport of cohesive flocs in the marine environment. In that regard, the instantaneously changing diameter, density and shear strength of flocs are the defining properties which distinguish floc transport from that of cohesionless particles. Thus, consideration of aggregation, which includes the dynamics of floc growth and breakup due to floc-floc collisions as well as flow-induced shearing of flocs, is a critical component of floc transport modeling.
MODELING COARSE SAND TRANSPORT UNDER SKEWED OSCILLATORY FLOW USING A CFD-DEM APPROACH
Authors: Rafati Yashar , Cheng Zhen , Yu Xiao , Hsu Tian-Jian , Calantoni Joseph
Published: February 2019

Onshore/offshore sediment transport in the nearshore is an important mechanism driving the evolution of coastal morphology. The so-called sheet flow is a transport regime, in which the flow forces are intense such that a large amount of transport occurs in a concentrated layer near the bed. Onshore transport is often associated with flow skewness/asymmetry. In the nearshore zone, due to the bottom slope and wave shoaling, the wave velocity tends be onshore skewed before breaking in the surf zone. For breaking waves, the velocity asymmetry (or acceleration skewness) may also play a key role in determining net sediment transport. Understanding the net sediment transport rate in response to wave skewness/asymmetry is fundamental to a better prediction of sediment transport in regional scale morphodynamic models. In this study, we used an Euler-Lagrange two-phase model to study sheet flow transport of coarse sand under oscillatory flows subject to velocity/acceleration skewness.
PHYSICAL MODELLING OF THE RESPONSE OF NON-NOURISHED AND NOURISHED BEACH PROFILES TO STORM SURGE OR SEA LEVEL RISE
Authors: Atkinson Alexander , Baldock Tom
Published: February 2019

Beach nourishment is a key strategy used to mitigate against the effects beach erosion under storm surge or sea level rise (SLR). Comparisons of different strategies are very difficult under field conditions. This paper presents the results of medium scale experiments that investigate the response of non-nourished and nourished beach profiles to water level rise, using three different nourishment strategies. The shoreline recession and profile response are compared to predictions from the Bruun rule (Bruun, 1962), recent modifications (Rosati et al., 2013) and a profile translation model that conserves the shape of the initial profile and the sediment volume.
TWO-PHASE FLOW SIMULATIONS OF SCOUR AROUND VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL CYLINDERS
Authors: Nagel Tim , Chauchat Julien , Bonamy Cyrille , Mathieu Antoine , Liu Xiaofeng , Cheng Zhen , Hsu Tian-Jian
Published: February 2019

Scour around structures is a major engineering issue that requires a detailed description of the flow field as well as sediment transport processes. Due to enhanced suspended load associated with vortices generated around structures, sediment transport cannot be solely related to bed shear stress, such as Shields parameter based formula. In order to address this issue, we used a multi-dimensional two-phase flow solver, sedFoam-2.0 (Chauchat et al., GMD 2017) implemented under the open-source CFD toolbox OpenFOAM. Three configurations are studied and compared with experimental and numerical data from the literature. First, the 2D configurations of an horizontal cylinder lying on a sediment bed (Mao, 1986; Sumer et al., 2001) are investigated. Then, the 3D configuration of the scour around a vertical cylindrical pile reported by Roulund et al. (2005) for rigid-bed and live bed cases is investigated.
ALONGSHORE VARIABILITY OF COASTAL MORHODYNAMICS IN EASTERN LAKE ERIE DUE TO LOW FREQUENCY OSCILLATIONS OF LAKE LEVEL
Authors: Sogut Erdinc , Farhadzadeh Ali
Published: February 2019

Lake Erie has the fourth largest surface area, shallowest water depth and smallest volume among the five Great Lakes in North America (NOAA). The dominant wind direction over Lake Erieâ€™s is southwest-northeast, along the lakeâ€™s longitudinal axis. The atmospheric and water level data of the lake demonstrate that high wind and moving pressure systems can result in high storm surge of up to 3 m on the eastern end of the lake and significant drop in the water level at the western end of the lake Due to its shallow depth, such a water level gradient can trigger unique post-storm free water-level fluctuations or seiches in Lake Erie (Farhadzadeh, 2017). The morphodynamic implications of such low frequency oscillations are yet to be studied for the lakeâ€™s shorelines. Most of studies on the contributions of long waves to beach morphology changes focused on low frequency harmonics induced by short waves, e.g. infragravity waves, edge waves, etc., oscillations with periods of up to a few minutes. Wright and Short (1984) discussed the differences in hydrodynamic processes and relative contributions of various mechanisms to morphological changes of beaches of different states, i.e., reflective, dissipative or intermediate. They concluded that for reflective beaches, incident waves and subharmonic edge waves are dominant while for dissipative beaches currents associated with infragravity standing waves are dominant in nearshore areas. Russell (1993) stated that as low frequency wave energy increases toward a shoreline, the offshore-directed transport at low frequency can become more pronounced.
3D HYDRODYNAMIC MODELING TO CHARACTERISE THE BEHAVIOUR OF THE DISPOSAL OF DREDGED MATERIAL USING A VERTICAL TREMIE PIPE
Authors: Mabija Siviwe
Published: February 2019

Dredge plume modelling forms an integral part of the supporting studies for EIA applications for both capital and maintenance dredging projects. The behaviour of dredge plumes is function of many variables, many of which are unknown at the time of undertaking the studies. As such engineering judgment, previous project experience (including engaging dredging contractors) and available literature form part of the tools used to characterize the behaviour of dredge plumes. This paper summarises two case studies where underwater disposal (using a vertical tremie pipe) of dredge material from a cutter section (CSD) was simulated in order to meet the regulatory standard at the edge of mixing zone.
QUANTIFICATION OF PARAMETER AND CALIBRATION UNCERTAINTY IN MORPHOLOGICAL MODELLING
Authors: Kroon Anna , De Schipper Matthieu , Aarninkhof Stefan
Published: February 2019

There are different sources of uncertainty in morphological modeling on time scales of years. The standard deterministic modelling approach does not provide any information on the amount of uncertainty contained in a forecast. This lack of information could provide a false sense of accuracy and skill. Quantitative insight in these prediction uncertainties is therefore of crucial importance for decision making in coastal engineering and management.
PREDICTING THE RESHAPING OF TEMPORARILY EXPOSED BUNDS WITH XBEACH-G
Authors: Mol Arjan , Van der Plas Ton , McCall Robert , Kroeders Merel
Published: February 2019

During coastal construction works, damages often occur to temporary constructions consisting of fine and often wide graded rock material due to exposure to waves. Examples of vulnerable structures are the bunds that are constructed to serve as the core for a breakwater before placement of the filter and armour layers, or as temporary defense during reclamation works. Such structures â€“ mostly built in bulk â€“ are temporarily exposed to wave conditions, and will reshape depending on the duration of exposure and the prevailing hydraulic conditions. For the exposed breakwater core, it is important to have an idea on how much of the placed material will be moved outside the perimeter, and thus how much material needs to be rehandled before the cover layers can be constructed. For temporary defense works, it is important to know how much material needs to be placed initially in order to offer sufficient protection for a certain period. For both cases, an accurate prediction of the reshaping of such structures is necessary.
PROCESS BASED NUMERICAL MODELING AND LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ON THE MORPHOLOGICAL CHANGE OF COASTAL SAND DUNE
Authors: Shin Sungwon , Do Kideok , Cox Daniel
Published: February 2019

Coastal sand dunes are important in the nearshore environment with respect to the sand supply, ecosystem, and hazard mitigation. While the reliable prediction of the dune erosion is important, numerical modeling of this phenomenon is still challenging. In this study, a process based morphological modeling was performed and the results were compared with large-scale laboratory experimental data.