bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
The Application of Reactive and Direct Dyes to Rayon Staple by Continuous Methods*
Authors: CHEETHAM R. C.
Published: July 2010

The principles of continuous piece dyeing have been studied, and an investigation has been made into the possible application of these principles to viscose staple fibre, with particular reference to dyeing for the carpet trade, whoro large weights to a colour are often called for.

Various machines capablo of convoying staple fibro in a continuous manner have been considered, including the nocossary machines for opening, dyeing, squeezing, steaming, and drying. Development work over the past two years has resulted in ono continuous dyoing systom based on the Fleissner revolving drum principle. This machine is now operating on a commercial scale with 15–donier crimped Fibro for use in tufted carpets. An alternative dyeing system based on the Callaghan machine for bonded non–woven fabrics is also being developed, and attention has boon given to the possibility of using scouring bowls.

It has been demonstrated that reactive dyes can be applied satisfactorily in continuous systems, using the method whereby the fibre is impregnated with dye–alkali mixture and dried; only the cold–dyeing members of the Procion range have been applied commercially. Direct dyes have also been applied successfully, mainly on the Fleissner system, and in order to obtain efficient penetration and tho required fastness standards, the method has become essentially short–term dyeing followed by simultaneous steaming and drying.

The application of direct dyes to Fibro in continuous systems has been studied in some detail, with main emphasis on tho measures to be taken to ensure regularity of colour over a long run. This is particularly important in view of the large proportion of dye absorbed by the fibre during immersion in the dye liquor. Soveral methods have been examined for means of arriving at tho necessary adjustments to the feed liquor; one promising method relies on spectrophotometrc estimation of tho dye romoved from a sample of fibre initially dyed to tho required colour.

Wet fastness of fibre dyed in these continuous systems is in some cases lower than that obtained by normal methods of dyeing, but adding salt or increasing the tomperature of impregnation minimises the disparity.

Fibro dyed on the Fleissner system has been subsequently processed to yarn on tho modified cotton and on the woollen systems of spinning. No particular difficulties have boen encountered and the fibro is more lofty than when dyed in enclosed machines.

The position of dyed fibre in relation to mass–dyed fibre has been discussed. It is thought that the two methods of colouring will be complementary.
Aspects of Pigment Dispersion related to Usage
Authors: Moll I. S.
Published: July 2010

Optical and fastness properties are of limited value unless satisfactory dispersion of a pigment can be achieved and maintained. In aqueous systems dispersion and stabilisation can be effected by soluble surface‐active agents, but in non‐aqueous media the degree of stabilisation is much lower. Dispersion of pigments into viscose solution is best achieved by minimising differences existing at the mixing boundary. In pigment printing compositions fineness of particles affects both fabric penetration and pigment binding. Stabilisation of yellow organic pigments with non‐ionic agents is necessary to avoid coagulation of emulsion paints. In non‐aqueous systems mixing procedures are most efficient when conditions allow maximum contribution by the pigment to its own dispersion. The degree of particle flocculation existing in a printing ink is a controlling factor in its behaviour on the paper surface. Seeding arising from milling high‐pigment–low‐resin paint compositions can be reduced by lowering the differential resin concentration at the dilution boundary. Variations in depth of colour caused by differences in film‐forming conditions for paints containing phthalocyanine blue are substantially overcome by surface treatment to reduce flocculation.
The Origins of English Calico Printing
Authors: Floud P. C.
Published: July 2010

The generally accepted theory that the first English calico printworks was established at Richmond, Surrey, in 1690 is considered to have no basis in fact. From examination of new evidence, it is concluded that the industry was established in 1676, probably by William Sherwin at West Ham, and for the next twenty‐five years was confined to areas in East London, on both sides of the River Lea, at Bow and West Ham. By this time (1676) the English printers had mastered the secrets of mordant printing with madder, having eventually solved the problems of thickeners and the clearing of the ground.
Effect of Structure on the Change in Colour of Vat Dyes on Soaping*
Authors: Wegmann J.
Published: July 2010

After a general survey of the problem of the changes in colour which accompany the soaping of vat dyes, it is shown that, at least for a limited range of dyes, the 1,4‐dibenzamidoanthraquinones, such changes must be due to changes of a molecular character. A working hypothesis has been evolved according to which the different forms are to he regarded as representing a new type of isomerism, termedcontact isomerism, and can be visualised as partly existing in solid form, and in isolated cases even as crystalline modifications, in conformity with the earlier hypothesis of different polar forms. The marked effects of certain substituents on the colour, hitherto inexplicable, can be explained by a predominating effect on the resulting isomeric composition, acting alongside the normal effect of the substituents. Various anomalies that can occur during development can be readily explained on this basis.
A New One‐bath Method for Continuous or Pad—Roll Vat Dyeing*
Authors: van Lamoen F. L. J. , Borsten H.
Published: July 2010

A description is given of a new one‐bath method for continuous vat dyeing, which can be used in both pad—steam installations and Pad—Roll machines. Although at present the full details concerning the best procedure are not available, it is expected that the method developed for the continuous vat dyeing of relatively short lengths of cloth will prove most suitable for Pad—Roll machines.
The Chemistry of Esters of Leuco Vat Dyes IV—Oxidation with Solutions of Nitrous Acid
Authors: Johnson A. , Lockett A. P.
Published: July 2010

When the sulphuric esters of leuco vat dyes are developed with acidic nitrous acid solutions in the complete absence of oxygen, the sulphate groups am removed only by hydrolysis; the resulting leuco dye is then oxidised by nitrous acid. When oxygen is present development is far more rapid, the majority of sulphate groups being removed by direct oxidation with hydroxyl radicals via a chain mechanism. The chain reaction is initiated by hydrogen peroxide (or HO2 radical) and propagated by the homolytic fission of pernitrous acid and its re‐formation from nitrogen dioxide and nitrous acid. This mechanism is thought to operate in normal development. A modification of the technical development process is suggested.
The English Contribution to the Development of Copper‐plate Printing
Authors: Floud P. C.
Published: July 2010

Copper‐plate printing of textiles was first introduced by Francis Nixon at the Drumcondra works, near Dublin, in 1752, and by 1754 the secret had been transmitted to England. For the next twenty years it remained virtually a monopoly of the Dublin and London printers.

An examination is made of the difference between seventeenth century non‐fast copper‐plate printing of maps and handkerchiefs and the copper‐plate printing with fast dyes by Nixon and his contemporaries. Examination of patents enables some description to be given of the development of textile copper‐plate printing presses.
Legal and Practical Problems of Effluent Disposal
Authors: Harwood J. H.
Published: July 2010

The current legal position affecting the disposal of trade effluent in sewers, rivers, and estuaries is reviewed. General types of treatment plant are described, and the use of coagulants and of biological treatment for removing polluting matter from trade wastes is discussed. Examples of the treatment of trade wastes from colour‐using industries are given and the approximate cost of treatment is indicate
The Cross‐linking of Cellulose and its Derivatives
Authors: Corbett W. M. , McKay J. E.
Published: July 2010

The mechanism of the cross‐linking of unsaturated ethers and esters of cellulose is discussed. An examination by paper chromatography of the acidic hydrolytic products of crotonate esters of cellulose cross‐linked by peroxides has shown that many complex reactions occur. As this leads to uncontrolled cross‐linking, the possibility of control by the addition of amines to cellulose crotonates is discussed.
Control and Specification of Fluorescent Whites and Colours
Authors: Adams J. M.
Published: July 2010

Colorimeters of different manufacture will not, in general, give measurements agreeing with one another even though they are designed to conform to CIE specifications, and the reasons for this are summarised. The conditions that must be fulfilled by a colorimeter to bo used for the measurement of fluorescent colours are given, and light sources that have been proposed for the colorimetry and visual assessment of fluorescent materials are reviewed and compared. Some of the methods of assessment that have been proposed are applicable only to fluorescently brightened near‐whites.
Application of Vat Colorants to Courtelle and its Blends with Cellulosic Fibres
Authors: Hannay R. J.
Published: July 2010

The development is described of a method for the application of vat dyes by a resist technique bo fabrics containing acrylic fibres. Satisfactory resist prints were obtained on 100% Courtelle and on Courtelle‐cellulosic fibre fabrics in which the Courtelle content was 50–66%. Under the conditions used, a two‐stage padding process was found to be preferable to a single‐stage one in the production of the vat‐dye ground. Although satisfactory white resists could be obtained, it was not possible to produce coloured ones on blend fabrics. Preliminary work on the extension of the method to dyeing is described.
The Absorption of Saturated Azobenzene Vapour by Cellulose Acetate
Authors: Jones F.
Published: July 2010

The rates of absorption of saturated azobenzene vapour by cellulose acetate film have been measured over a range of temperatures by means of a completely enclosed silica spring balance. The results indicate that diffusion is “anomalous” or non‐Fickian below the upper second‐order transition temperature (120°C) of cellulose acetate. Apparent diffusion coefficients were found to vary with concentration, and the activation energy of diffusion increased to a constant value of +31·0 kcal/mole as the concentration of azobenzene in the film increased. This variation of the apparent diffusion coefficient is attributed in part to the energy required for “hole” formation in the polymer and in part to the increased mean free path of the diffusion species. Saturation values in the cellulose acetate were higher than those obtained by conventional dyeing methods, and it is concluded that the process of vapour‐phase absorption differs fundamentally from the process of absorption from aqueous systems.
The Discoloration of Wool Grease in the Recovery Process
Authors: Anderson C. A. , Truter E. V.
Published: July 2010

The colour of wool grease varies from yellowish brown to dark brown, and can be attributed partly to the presence of natural pigments and partly to the formation of coloured derivatives of the waxy constituents by autoxidation. Other coloured compounds may be formed during the recovery of grease from the wool‐scouring liquors (or the solvent). Observations are reported on the mode of formation of the third group of coloured materials.
The Evolution of Disperse Dyes and their Application to Hydrophobic Fibres
Authors: Baldwinson T. M.
Published: July 2010

The development of disperse dyes for dyeing cellulose acetate is discussed. Methods of application are then considered, attention being given to direct, carrier, high‐temperature, solvent‐assisted, and pad dyeing techniques.
Correspondence
Authors: Jones L. E.
Published: July 2010

The Editor does not hold himself responsible for opinions expressed by correspondents
A Study of the Chemistry of Carrotting Processes
Authors: Robinson E. A. , Robinson Janice
Published: July 2010

The complex reactions that occur when rabbit fur is treated with a solution of mercuric nitrate in dilute nitric acid involve both cystine cross‐linkages and tyrosine side‐chains. Nitrous acid is an important intermediate. Mercuric nitrate and nitric acid attack tyrosine side‐chains far more effectively than do mixtures of hydrogen peroxide and nitric acid at comparable concentrations; this may be one reason for the superior felting properties of mercuric‐carrotted furs as compared with rion‐mercuric‐carrotted furs. The evolution of carbon dioxide and nitrogen from cystino and from fur during treatment with these reagents has not been reported previously. The observations reported in the three papers in this series are discussed.
Scouring and Dyeing of Some Blends for the Carpet Trade
Authors: Cheetham R. C.
Published: July 2010

Fibre blends are of importance in the carpet industry not only for economic reasons but also because of their influence on carpet performance and overall value. The application to carpet blends of recent developements in scouring and dyeing techniques, including modifications to processing machines, is commented on, and details of specific methods are given for various blends. Reference is made to the developement of “scourless” lubricants in the processing of carpet yarns on the woollen system. Methods of particular interest include the dyeing under acid conditions of blends of wool and Fibro, the use of solvents for dyeing blends of Celafibre and nylon, the application of reactive dyes to blends of Fibrolane and Fibro, and the single‐stage dyeing method using direct and basic dyes for blends of Courtelle and Fibro. Brief reference is made to the piece‐dyeing of carpets containing a blend pile of Courtelle and Fibro and to the possible use of a spraying technique for dyeing carpet pile consisting of a Fibrolane and nylon blend
Enzymes and their Application in Textile Processing, especially Desizing
Authors: Regan I.
Published: July 2010

The origin of enzymes and their general properties are outlined in brief. A variety of industrial uses is mentioned and the application of enzymes in the textile industry is discussed in some detail. Starchsplitting enzymes, amylases, are discussed in particular. Their properties are shown to be dependent on their source of origin. The mechanism of amylase action on a starch substrate is explained and distinction is made between α‐ and β‐amylase. Present‐day textile finishing has led to greater importance being given to cloth preparation and to an increasing acceptance of continuous processes. Enzymic and other desizing techniques are outlined. Mention is made of sizing materials other than starch. Removal of these substances is often materially assisted by enzyme preparations; reference is made to proteins and gums.
The Combined Dyeing and Finishing of Cellulosic Fabrics
Authors: Rattee I. D.
Published: July 2010

The introduction of reactive dyes has made possible the development of methods for linking the dyeing and finishing processes. This step offers considerable economy in operating costs because of the simplicity of the operations and the streamlining of production, and at the same time dye consumption is markedly reduced as a result of the very high degree of fixation obtained. Two processes are described: the Procion–Resin process for cotton fabrics, which permits simultaneous dyeing and finishing, and the two‐stage Procion–Resin process for viscose rayon fabrics, which links the two processes. Excellent fastness properties and high‐quality finishes can be obtained by the two processes.
Observations on the Economics of Dyeing with Reactive Dyes
Authors: Mawson J. F. , Rattee I. D.
Published: July 2010

The introduction of reactive dyes has significantly affected the established economic relationship between batch and continuous processing. Reactive dyes have properties which are suited to high‐speed continuous dyeing without the need for specialised equipment. On the other hand, conventional dyes, e.g. direct and vat dyes, are designed primarily for batch‐dyeing methods. It is found that the direct production costs for the continuous dyeing of reactive dyes are comparable with those for dyeing direct dyes on the jig or winch. This fact, coupled with the high wet‐fastness properties of reactive dyes, is likely to accelerate the growth of more productive dyeing processes throughout the world.
The State of Indigoid and Thioindigoid Dyes in Dyed Materials
Authors: Egerton G. S. , Galil F.
Published: July 2010

The structural composition of indigo and its ring‐substituted derivatives in the solid state has been considered. It is concluded that, except for indigo derivatives containing bulky substituents in the 4,4′‐ and 7,7′‐positions, these compounds are associated in the trans configuration by means of intermolecular hydrogen bonds. Unlike indigo, some derivatives of thioindigo (e.g. methylchloro‐ and ethoxy‐substituted compounds and the hemi‐thioindigoid dye, 1′‐acenaphthene‐2‐thianaphtheneindigo) exist in the solid state as mixtures of cis and trans forms. Thioindigo, 6,6′‐dichlorothioindigo and bis‐4,5‐benzothioindigo, however, exist solely in the trans configuration in the solid state. It is suggested that, in the solid state, thioindigo is stabilised in the trans configuration by electrostatic attraction between partial negative charges on the oxygen atoms and slight positive charges on the sulphur atoms. Where the thioindigoid dye exists in the solid state as a mixture of cis and trans forms, the application of the dye by conventional dyeing methods followed by oxidation may not result in the formation of a stable equilibrium mixture, and changes may occur on subsequent swelling treatments, e.g. soaping, which lead to a change in the absorption spectra of dyed Cellophane (and of the colour of dyed fabrics). The nature of these changes is illustrated by absorption and reflection spectra.
An Introduction to Organic Pigments*
Authors: Smith F. M.
Published: July 2010

In a broad outline of pigment technology, showing the commercial significance of pigments in relation to dyes, the emphasis is on organic pigments. A chemical classification of organic pigments is suggested and important physical properties are described. Textile and non‐textile applications are reviewed and pigment dispersion is discussed. The use of pigments in plastics illustrates the more stringent conditions imposed on pigments.
The Identification of Sulphonic Acid Reduction Products of Azo Dyes II—Sulphonic Acids of 1‐Amino‐2‐naphthol
Authors: Cross E. J.
Published: July 2010

Sulphonic acids of 1‐amino‐2‐naphthol with a sulphonic group in the 8‐position are readily converted by treatment with acetic anhydride into the corresponding sulphonic acids of 2‐methylnaphth[1,2‐d]oxazole, whereas those in which the 8‐position is unsubstituted yield NO‐diacetyl‐derivatives.
Paper Chromatography of Water‐insoluble Dyes*
Authors: ŠRámek J.
Published: July 2010

The paper chromatography of vat and sulphur dyes, using reducing eluents at 80C, has been carried out, the dyes being separated as their leuco compounds. Disperse dyes have been separated, using both hydrophobic and hydrophilic eluents, and these methods have been applied to solvent dyes and to azoie diazo and coupling components. In all cases ascending paper chromatography was used. The relation between dye constitution and chromatographic behaviour has been examined.
Practical Aspects of Vat Dyeing of Cotton Yarn Packages
Authors: Fox M. R.
Published: July 2010

Factors that contribute to the production of level vat dyeings on cotton yarn packages are discussed with reference to the machines, winding, and quality of dyes and chemicals used. A method is given for determining the leueo‐solubility of vat dyes in package‐dyeing systems. Rates of dyeing and migration properties are listed and examples of their use in the formulation of recipes and processes given. Earlier systems of prepigmentation are critically discussed and a new approach, based on the preparation, from FDN Caledon Grains, of very stable pigment dispersions with low pigment exhaustion values, is described. High pigment stability and control of the rates of reduction of FDN qualities are considered responsible for the success of the method.
Analysis of the Functions of Deposits of Polymer in Modifying the Milling Shrinkage of All‐wool Flannel
Authors: Tolgyesi V. , Speakman J. B.
Published: July 2010

The shrinkage of untreated flannel and of flannel containing different amounts of polymethyl methacrylate, applied from solution in acetone, has been determined as a function of the time of milling. Comparison of the rates of shrinkage of treated and untreated flannel, at corresponding values of shrinkage, permits discrimination between the spot‐welding and scale‐masking functions of the polymer, and reveals the lubricating effect of the scale‐masking polymer on movement of the fibres.
Autoradiographic Determination of Distribution of Urea‐Formaldehyde Resin in Regenerated Cellulose Filamentsd
Authors: Park G. S.
Published: July 2010

Autoradiographs have been made of cross‐sections of several different kinds of viscose rayon filament after finishing with tritiated urea‐formaldehyde resin. The skin of Tenasco is shown to contain less resin than the core, and in a fabric containing both Durafil and Fibro filaments the latter thin‐skin filaments contain more resin than the former all‐skin ones. An interesting resin distribution has been obtained in crimped staple; the lobes enveloped in thin skin contain more resin than the main thick‐skinned portions.
THE SEVENTH GEORGE DOUGLAS LECTURE
Authors: Urquhart A. R.
Published: July 2010

The ways in which research has affected the consumer in respect of his usage of textiles are discussed by selecting some specific examples— the bleaching of cellulose fibres, the development of synthetic dyes, mercerisation, the production of rayons and of synthetic‐polymer fibres, and the development of easy‐care finishes and of a flame‐resistant finish. In conclusion there is a brief discussion of priorities in research and the attitude of the laymen to it.
Metal Complexes of Alizarin I—The Structure of the Calcium–Aluminium Lake of Alizarin
Authors: Kiel E. G. , Heertjes P. M.
Published: July 2010

We had reason to doubt the correctness of current opinion that the formula of the calcium–aluminium lake of alizarin (Turkey Red) is Ca2A13Az4(where Az represents an alizarin molecule minus two hydroxylic hydrogen atoms). We therefore carried out a further study of this complex, the results of which are presented in this paper. The molecular structure of the complex has been established. The complex has been preparedin vitroand purified by washing, crystallisation, and chromatographic separation. The structure has been elucidated by conventional analytical methods, including infrared spectroscopy. The basic compound has been established to be CaAl(OH)(Az)z, in which calcium is bound as an ion and aluminium forms part of a chelate ring with the 9‐carboxyl and 1‐hydroxyl groups of alizarin. This compound can take up three molecules of water, forming a new compound in which the water molecules are part of the molecular lattice. This new compound can form a hydrate with another three molecules of water.
Methods for Conserving the Properties of Wool during Dyeing
Authors: Swindell W. C. F.
Published: July 2010

The value of the urea‐bisulphite solubility test as a guide in determining the optimum conditions for dyeing loose wool has been demonstrated. Using this test as a criterion, it was concluded that dyeing should be carried out at a temperature not exceeding 93C for not more than 60 min, the final dyebath pH not to exceed 55. When these conditions were employed, e.g. in a solvent‐assisted dyeing process, marked improvements were observed in the carding and spinning properties of the dyed wool and there was an increase of 25% or more in the abrasion resistance of carpets made from the loose wool.
The Creation of Comprehensive Colour Ranges by Computer
Authors: Bell J. R. , Gailey I. , Oglesby S.
Published: July 2010

A scheme has been devised for calculating recipes for colours approximately equidistant perceptually from each other. The number of recipes held must give colours sufficiently close together to satisfy customer demands. Check dyeings are being made initially of all colours in the wider‐spaced grid chosen for physical standards, but future work will require a much smaller number of check dyeings. The advantage of such a scheme is that a speedier service to the customer can be provided, since each wet‐processing unit of an organisation has recipes available in advance of the customer's need from the library of recipes provided.
The Fading of Rhodamine B in Aqueous Acetone Solutions
Authors: Stevens B. , Bingham W. S. W.
Published: July 2010

Otherwise light‐fast solutions of Rhodamine B (C.I. 45170) in water are found to undergo irreversible fading when acetone is added, both in degassed and in aerated solutions, when the incident light is absorbed by acetone. Addition of acetone increases the concentration of the colourless lactonic form of the dye, and the experimentally determined rate constant decreases with increase in acetone concentration when this is above 50% by volume. At all but the lowest concentrations of dye, an induction period is observed which is considerably increased by the addition of oxygen; this is attributed to the photochemical accumulation of a species from which the semi‐reduced dye radical can abstract a hydrogen atom to produce the leuco dye, and to the photochemical consumption of oxygen, which quenches the triplet states of acetone and of Rhodamine B which take part in the energy‐transfer process.
High‐accuracy Colorimetry— A Review of Some Recent Work
Authors: Johnson Sheila , Phillips D. H. , Robertson A. R. , Wright W. D.
Published: July 2010

The sources of error in colorimetry and spectrophotometry are first reviewed, and particular attention is paid to the discrepancies introduced between measurements made on different instruments arising from the variety of illuminating and viewing conditions that are employed. Reference is made to the degree of polarisation present in the light emerging from a prism monochromator and to the error this may cause in the measurement of the spectral luminance factor if the sample is illuminated at 45 and viewed normally. If these directions are interchanged, the error is eliminated.

A project on high‐accuracy colorimetry in progress at Imperial College is then described in which the spectral reflection curves of a set of grey tiles ranging from black to white have been measured. Inter‐comparison between some 30 laboratories is also in progress. The application of these tiles to the accurate colour measurement of other samples by differential spectrophotometry is envisaged. Experience on the agreement between colour measurements made with several different instruments is reported and the requirements of a set of samples to be used as working standards for photometry and colorimetry are discussed.
Metal Complexes of Alizarin II—The Structure of Some Metal Complexes of Alizarin other than Turkey Red
Authors: Kiel E. G. , Heertjes P. M.
Published: July 2010

The molecular structures of some complexes of alizarin have been established. It has been shown that all these compounds have the sane general type of structure and that they consist of a complex anion (a chelate of alizarin with a trivalent metal) with a uni‐, bi‐ or quadri‐valent metal cation. Before complex formation, salt formation of the alizarin molecule is necessary, because otherwise complex formation will be very slow.
The Early History of the Synthetic Dye Industry*
Authors: Welham R. D.
Published: July 2010

An account of the development of the industry from 1856 to 1900 is given. The early years of the dye‐making companies are described, with reference also to the chemists who were responsible for many of the important discoveries. The effect on the industry in Britain of the loss of many of those chemists and of the best managers is contrasted with the rapid increase in the efficiency and size of the Gorman companies. Accounts are given of the main British companies and of the ways in which they attempted to meet the almost overwhelming competition from the Continent. The evidence on the decline of the industry in Britain, presented by Meldola and, later, by Green, is reviewed.
Metal Complexes of Alizarin III—The Structure of Metal Complexes of some 3‐Derivatives of Alizarin
Authors: Kiel E. G. , Heertjes P. M.
Published: July 2010

The molecular structure of some metal complexes of 3‐nitroalizarin, 3‐aminoalizarin, and sodium 3‐alizarinsulphonate has been established. It has been found that all these compounds have the same basic structure as that of the corresponding complexes of alizarin, as discussed in Part II of this series.
The Optical Properties of Some Azo Pigments
Authors: Hannam A. R. , Patterson D.
Published: July 2010

Crystals of a number of azo pigments have been prepared by suitable recrystallisation methods, of sufficient size (about 200 μ) for light transmission and refractive index measurements to be made on them. The respective measurements were made with a specially designed microspectrophotometer and by a combination of immersion and retardation methods. X‐ray diffraction photographs showed that the crystal structure had not been changed by recrystallisation. In all cases the pigment crystals were birefringent and had very different absorption curves for polarised light travelling in the slow and in the fast directions in the crystal, resulting in considerable colour differences. This explains why the particle‐size distribution of different samples of such pigments must be very closely similar if dispersions of them are to display the same colour to the eye. It also follows from the high refractive indices found in some instances that these pigments must contribute considerably to the opacity of films in which they are dispersed.
Light Fastness and Colour Changes of Fluorescent Brightening Agents on Orlon
Authors: Jaeckel S. M. , Ward C. D.
Published: July 2010

Light fastness and colour changes of fluorescent brightening agents on Orlon are investigated visually, fluorimetrically, and colorimetrically after daylight and Fugitometer exposures, which are compared and contrasted. Light whitens the Orlon used and yellows the fluorescent brightening agent on it. Fugitometer exposures were unrealistic.
Modern Methods of Dyeing and Finishing Ladies' Nylon Hose
Authors: Doggett T. S.
Published: July 2010

The methods available for the dyeing and finishing of ladies' nylon hosiery are described and reviewed. These include “conventional” methods— preboard and machine finish, postboard, and tray dry or tray fold. Dyeing techniques are discussed with particular emphasis on the practical effects of various heat treatments upon the yarn or hosiery, particularly in relation to the dye uptake of the nylon. Combined dyeing and finishing machines, or dyoboarders, are then described, with their main advantages and disadvantages, in the form of a chronological survey. The machines referred to are the Electrocolorset, the Dyotherm, the Heliot Teintofix, the Colorplast, the Turbo Dyeboarder, the Pegg Dyeboarder, the Girland Dyeboarder, and the Hydroset machine.
The Fastness of Indigo and Topped Indigo Dyeings on Wool Cloth
Authors: Campbell B. , Inkumsah S. E. , Tandoh W. C.
Published: July 2010

The fastness to light, rubbing, and washing of self‐colours of indigo, chrome, and acid dyes, and of indigo dyeings “topped” with a chrome or an acid dye, are assessed and compared. Although indigo contributes advantageously to the light fastness of topped dyeings in all except heavy doptns (where the fastness of the topping dye is adequate in self‐colours), the fastness to rubbing of topped dyeings decreases as the proportion of indigo increases. In general, for heavy depths, little advantage, in respect of fastness, accrues from the use of indigo as a “bottoming” dye.
The Application of Milling Acid and Metal‐complex Dyes to Hatting Felt
Authors: Park J.
Published: July 2010

The paper describes work carried out in order to obtain level dyeings of high wet fastness on hatting felt. Those have been obtained both in the laboratory and on a works scale by replacing the levelling acid dyes that are normally employed by milling acid and metal‐complex dyes. These classes of dye normally produce unlevel dyeings when applied at low pH values; it has been found, however, that, by using proprietary levelling agents which form complexes with the dyes, and also by careful temperature control, those dyes can he applied at pH values much lower than are normally used.
Action of Cuprammonium Hydroxide (Schweitzer Reagent) on Keratin
Authors: Wolfram L. J.
Published: July 2010

The tension which develops in keratin fibres during treatment with a solution of cuprammonium hydroxide (Schweitzer reagent) was determined and related to the supercontraction observed. A mechanism of the generation of tension is postulated and reference is made to the crystallographic changes brought about by Schweitzer reagent in virgin and modified fibres.
Practical Aspects of the Bleaching of Cellulosic Materials
Authors: Garrett C.
Published: July 2010

Practical details are given of the method of using ceramic‐lined kiers in the chlorite or peroxide bleaching of fabric in rope form. Inexpensive modifications to existing equipment are outlined that would enable bleach works to possess facilities for undertaking all types of bleaching process. Open‐width bleaching of fabric is then discussed. Various aspects of the use of the common bleaching agents— sodium hypochlorite, hydrogen peroxide, and sodium chlorite—are considered and a method of overcoming the coloured‐fibre (“red fleck”) problem is mentioned. Bleaching of yarn on packages is thon described. Finally, attention is drawn to the importance of testing methods in the control of the bleaching process, with emphasis on the measurement of fluidity.
The Adsorption of Disperse Dyes in Admixture
Authors: Johnson A. , Peters R. H. , Ramadan A. S.
Published: July 2010

The dyeing behaviour of binary mixtures selected from four disperse dyes of dissimilar structure has been examined and it has been shown that no interaction takes place. These mixtures, and also other non‐interacting mixtures, yield normal melting point diagrams with a eutectic point, whereas mixtures of interacting dyes show no eutectic.
The Spacing of the Higher ISO Light‐fastness Standards
Authors: McLaren K.
Published: July 2010

Strips of the ISO Master Light‐fastness Standards 5–8 were exposed to daylight for five different periods and the amounts of fading assessed visually against a Grey Scale and determined colorimetrically. Standard 6 was found to be 1·6 times as fast as Standard 5, and Standard 7 4·2 times as fast as Standard 6. The significance of these ratios is discussed.
Education and Research in Dyes and Dyeing Technology in Russia
Authors: Jones F.
Published: July 2010

A number of higher educational establishments concerned with the training of undergraduates in dye and dyeing technology in Russia are described from the viewpoint of syllabus content and organisation. Some research projects conducted in these institutes are discussed briefly and a description of two dyeing factories in Moscow and Leningrad is given.
Printing of Tricel Cellulose Triacetate Fabrics
Authors: Consterdine K.
Published: July 2010

A brief description is given of the preparation of fabrics made from Tricel or Tricel‐containing blends, including “S”‐finishing. This is a partial saponification process which imparts antistatic properties, improves resistance to glazing and stiffening during ironing, and increases the resistance to gas‐fume fading of prints of certain disperse dyes. The types of dyes used and general processing details for roller and screen printing are then covered. Recipes are given for printing 100% Tricel fabrics with disperse or acid dyes or with pigments, and for printing blends of Tricel and rayon, polyester, or acrylic fibres, with reference also to discharge styles. Finishing is also briefly covered.
The Identification of Dyes on Secondary Cellulose Acetate
Authors: Haigh D.
Published: July 2010

A scheme for the identification of dyes on secondary cellulose acetate is presented. The scheme is in two parts— first, identification of the application class of the dye and, secondly, identification of the chemical class of the dye within each application class. Since disperse dyes are the most widely used class of dye on secondary cellulose acetate, most attention has been devoted to the scheme for their identification.
Kinetics of the Reaction between Reactive Dyes and Cotton in Dyeing from Long Liquors
Authors: BECKMANN W. , HILDEBRAND D.
Published: July 2010

For a fibre–reactive dichloroquinoxaline carbonamide dye, the amounts of dye substantively and chemically bound to cotton fibre in dyeing from a long liquor have been determined. The reaction between dye and fibre was neither pseudo first– nor second–order. The relative rate of reaction (based on the amount of dye substantively bound and still reactive) was a function of thetotalamount of dye present on the fibre, and was about twenty–five times smaller than the corresponding rate constant for the reaction with sorbitol. An interpretation of the results implies that effects of heterogeneity slow down the reaction and that dye molecules can be bound substantively in different kinds of link (by adsorption in special topochemical positions or by association) so as to differ in their probability of reacting with the fibre.
Observations on the Thermal Degradation of Courtelle Acrylic Fibre I– Chemical Changes Induced by Heat
Authors: BELL J. W. , MULCHANDANI R. K.
Published: July 2010

The formation of colour and other chemical changes which take place when Courtelle acrylic fibre is strongly heated in air and in nitrogen are studied in detail. Until conditions are sufficiently severe to cause heavy discoloration, there is little weight loss and only small quantities of ammonia and hydrogen cyanide are evolved. During the later stages there is an increase in uptake of acid and a greatly enhanced sensitivity to strong alkali. It is considered that formation of cyclic –C = N– conjugated structures is the most probable mechanism.
The Effect of Rate of Flow on Rate of Dyeing II–The Mechanism of Fluid Flow through Textiles and its Significance in Dyeing
Authors: MCGREGOR R.
Published: July 2010

It is suggested that, in spite of its well–known limitations (/), the Kozeny–Carman equation can provide a reasonably satisfactory description of the major features of fluid flow through textile materials, provided that the fluid flow is streamline and that the permeability of the yarns themselves is taken into account. Equations are presented that enable an estimate to be made of the amount of the fluid flow that passes through the yarns, as opposed to passing around them, and these equations are shown to provide a satisfactory description of the variation of the permeability of cross–wound cotton–yarn packages with package density. The consequences of the proposed mechanism of fluid flow are discussed briefly, in so far as they are relevant to dyeing.
Fading of Nitrodiphenylamine Dyes in Relation to their Structure and Ultraviolet Absorption Spectra
Authors: ASQUITH R. S. , BRIDGEMAN I. , JNR A. T. PETERS
Published: July 2010

Previous assumptions that ultraviolet absorption spectra can be used to indicate the presence of ‘quinonoid’ forms in nitrodiphenylamine dyes are substantiated. These forms may, however, only occur to a significant extent during irradiation, i. e. as excited charge–transfer forms. The differences in wavelength of maximum absorption (λmax) between ortho and para forms would indicate that differentiation between them may be possible in cases where both forms can exist.
The Measurement of Colour I–An Introduction to Tristimulus Colorimetry
Authors: COATES E. , RIGG B.
Published: July 2010

The essential facts required for an understanding of the visual process are given and the basic theory of tristimulus colorimetry is presented.
A Novel Concept of Dye Application for Dyeing and Printing
Authors: GULBINS K. , SCHWINDT W.
Published: July 2010

A new method of dyeing and printing textiles is described in which the dye is bound to the fibre by means of a compound of high molecular weight. The advantages and disadvantages of existing methods of dyeing and printing textiles are surveyed and possible methods of combining dyes chemically with binders are discussed, with particular reference to the preparation of film–forming copolymers containing interpolymerised dye. Dyes containing acrylic groups have been found to be the most suitable. The application of such copolymers to textiles is considered; the colorations obtained have higher fastness to rubbing and to solvents than pigment dyeings and prints, but the light fastness is generally somewhat lower.
FRIDAY MORNING, 17th SEPTEMBER 1965
Authors: VICKERSTAFF T. , RIZZO F. J.
Published: July 2010

It is shown that accusations of inconsistency on the part of colour matchers are justified in degree. This is because visual colour matching is not only a function of the eye, but also of the brain and the stored preferences and psychological responses of the individual. Instrumentation has come a long way and can perform this function objectively, but the data still require interpretation and this will tend to reintroduce some measure of personal bias. The new instrumentation is colorimetrically very precise and is an excellent complement to spectrophotometers and computers, which are now being used extensively to solve the textile industry's problems. Much more can be expected from the use of instrumentation, in particular a substantial assistance in understanding the fundamental relations of the dyes and fibres and the influences of various factors in processing and in use.
A New Colour–matching Computer
Authors: CUTLER A. E.
Published: July 2010

A theoretical analysis, based on a modern theory of diffuse reflection, has led to the derivation of a modified form of the Kubelka–Munk equation for textiles which considerably increases the accuracy of dye–recipe prediction, particularly for full depths. A further improved function for use with plastics materials has also been derived. These functions have been embodied in a colour–computing system comprising an abridged spectrophotometer, a data–transfer system, and a computer, designed to give results accurate to 0–2% and rapid, largely automatic operation, and which may be used by relatively unskilled staff. Details are given of the various parts of the computer and of its use for standardising dyes, calculating predictions on a spectral basis, and making corrections on the basis of either spectral reflectances or tristimulus values. Features of the equipment include entirely automatic reflectance measurement, data–transfer and conversion to K/S units, display of reflectance or tristimulus errors at all stages, an improved method of correction, and automatic indication of the cost of predicted recipes.
Observations on the Thermal Degradation of Courtelle Acrylic Fibre II– Changes in Physical Properties
Authors: BELL J. W. , MULCHANDANI R. K.
Published: July 2010

Studies are made of changes in tensile properties, density, dimensions, moisture regain, swelling, and solubility of Courtelle acrylic fibre strongly heated in air and in nitrogen. Severe heating does not in general cause a serious deterioration in fibre properties, and, although results can be explained on the basis of cross–link formation, such cross–linking does not appear to be extensive.
Metal Complexes of Alizarin V–Investigations of Alizarin–dyed Cotton Fabrics
Authors: KIEL E. G. , HEERTJES P. M.
Published: July 2010

It has often been assumed that the oil used in the traditional Turkey Red dyeing processes is an essential constituent of the dye complex formed on the cotton fibre. Work is now described which shows that the same complex is formed in vitro and on cotton fabrics mordanted with aluminium salts in the presence of calcium ions, both in absence and in presence of oils, e. g. Turkey Red oil; the formula of the complex is CaAl(OH)(Az)2. Factors governing the deposition of the complex within the cotton fabric are discussed. For level dyeing, fixation of the mordant should take place at pH 8, which is also the optimum dyebath pH; in the dyeing process itself, alizarin should be present in excess of the amount necessary for complex formation.
The Preparation, Substantivity, and Fluorescence Intensity of some Benzoyl Derivatives of 4, 4‘–Diaminostilbene–3, 3’– and –2, 2 –Disulphonic Acids
Authors: TYMAN J. H. P.
Published: July 2010

The benzoyl, p–toluoyl, and p–aminobenzoyl derivatives of 4, 4′‐diaminostilbene‐3, 3′‐and‐2, 2′‐sulphonic acid have been prepared. Their substantivities (under equilibrium adsorption conditions) and fluorescence intensities have been compared. The 3, 3′‐derivatives have greater substantivity and, although this is not quite so marked, higher fluorescence intensity for the same amount adsorbed than the 2, 2′‐derivatives.
The Cross–linking of Cotton with Divinyl Ethers
Authors: JONES D. M. , ROBINSON R. N. , WOOD N. F.
Published: July 2010

Good smooth–drying properties are imparted to cotton by treatment with divinyl ethers in dimethylformamide in the presence of catalytic quantities of concentrated hydrochloric acid. The acetal cross–links responsible are stable to alkaline laundering, and this type of finish does not retain chlorine. Better crease recovery–strength relationships can be achieved in this way than by the use of dimethylolcyclicethyleneurea, the greatest improvement in crease recovery occurring at a degree of substitution which corresponds to 0–05 cross–links per anhydroglucose unit. Values of Smooth–drying Index correlate well with crease–recovery angles, whereas Monsanto Grades do not.
Automation and its Influence on Dyeing with Reactive Dyes
Authors: SELTZER I.
Published: July 2010

Meetings of the Midlands Region, held at the College of Technology and Commerce, Leicester, on 28th October 1964, Mr G. Whitehead in the chair; of the London Region, held at the Royal Society, Burlington House, London Wl, on 8th January 1965, Mr C. Barnett in the chair; of the West of England and South Wales Region, held in the Conference Room, ICI Ltd, Queen Square, Bristol, on 4th February 1965, Mr S. Shaw in the chair; of the West Riding Region, held at the Great Northern Hotel, Leeds, on 11th February 1965, Dr F. F. Elsworth in the chair; and of the Huddersfield Region, held at the George Hotel, Huddersfield, on 16th February 1965, Mr M. Nutton in the chair

The implications for the textile industry of modern ideas on automation are discussed from the colourist's viewpoint. Particular emphasis is placed on factors involved in the automation of the pad(alkali)–batch(cold) process for the continuous application of reactive dyes to cellulosic–fibre fabrics. The highly reactive Procion M (ICI) dyes are particularly suitable for use in mechanised systems because of the simplicity of the dyeing technique and the good fastness and brightness of the resulting dyeings.