bluuebunny/crossref_metadata_2025 huggingface dataset:
MORPHOLOGIC RESPONSE OF BEACHES AND TIDAL INLETS TO HURRICANE IRMA IN SOUTHWEST FLORIDA, USA
Authors: Dabees Mohamed
Published: February 2019

Hurricane Irma was a major Hurricane in the 2017 tropical season that reached category 5 and caused catastrophic damage in parts of the northeastern Caribbean and the Florida Keys. Irma was the strongest observed storm and the most intense in the Atlantic since 2005. Irma developed on August 30, 2017 near the west African coast then intensified into a hurricane on the Saffirâ€“ Simpson scale within one day. Irma became a major storm at Category 3 hurricane On September 5, 2017 then reached its peak of Category 5 hurricane with intensity of 185 mph (295 km/h) winds. Irma was a Category 4 hurricane, before making landfall on The Florida Keys and was a major Category 3 by the time it made a second Florida landfall on Marco Island and Naples in Southwest Florida on Sunday September 10, 2017. Irma weakened to a category 2 hurricane later that day as it tracked along the Florida peninsula. This paper discusses morphologic responses to the storm in Southwest Florida where Irma made landfall at Marco Island and Naples. FDEP (2018) provides documentation of the post-storm beach conditions and coastal impact of Hurricane Irma throughout the state of Florida, This paper focuses on case studies in Southwest Florida.
A SEMI-ANALYTIC MODEL OF TIDAL INLETS AND THEIR EVOLUTION
Authors: Larson Magnus , Nunes Almir , Tanaka Hitoshi , Hanson Hans
Published: February 2019

The water exchange between the sea and a lagoon or bay through an inlet due to tides is a classical topic that has been investigated in a large number of studies (Keulegan, 1967; Oâ€™Brien and Dean, 1972; Oâ€™Brien and Clark, 1974; Escoffier, 1977). In this paper, a simple semi-analytic model of the flow induced by tides through an inlet connecting the sea to a lagoon or bay is developed. The model is employed to derive explicit expressions for key parameters associated with inlet flows such as bay water level amplitude, tidal prism, maximum inlet velocity, and mixing (retention) time. Also, the inlet flow model is combined with a sediment transport model to determine the conditions for equilibrium as well as the evolution of the inlet cross-sectional area towards equilibrium or closure.
PREDICTING DUNE EROSION WITH COMBINED PROCESS-BASED AND MULTIVARIATE STATISTICAL MODELS
Authors: Wahl Thomas , Plant Nathaniel G. , Long Joseph W. , Santos Victor Malagon
Published: February 2019

Oceanographic variables such as mean sea level, tides, storm surges, and waves are drivers of erosion, and they act on different time scales ranging from hours (associated with weather) to seasonal and decadal variations and trends (associated with climate). Storm erosion of dunes, which often protect coastal communities and built infrastructure from flooding, poses a major risk. Dune erosion is also a challenge to analyze and predict, due to the complex processes involved and the computational costs that come with it. Here, we introduce a novel framework that combines advanced statistical techniques and a process-based numerical model to efficiently simulate storm-induced dune erosion.
HOW TIDES AND WAVES ENHANCE AEOLIAN SEDIMENT TRANSPORT AT THE SAND MOTOR MEGA NOURISHMENT
Authors: Haanhout Bas , Luijendijk Arjen , De Vries Sierd
Published: February 2019

In this paper we will present a two-dimensional application of the Windsurf modeling framework on the Sand Motor mega-nourishment in The Netherlands that allows for detailed simulation of the interaction between subtidal and subaerial processes. Expanding knowledge concerning the close entanglement between subtidal and subaerial processes in coastal environments initiated the development of the open-source Windsurf modeling framework that enables us to simulate multi-fraction sediment transport due to subtidal and subaerial processes simultaneously. The Windsurf framework couples separate model cores for subtidal morphodynamics related to waves and currents (Delft3D Flexible Mesh; Lesser et al., 2004) and storms (XBeach; Roelvink et al., 2009) and aeolian sediment transport (AeoLiS; Hoonhout et al., 2016). AeoLiS is a recent process-based model for supply-limited multifraction aeolian sediment transport that includes limiting effect of soil moisture, sediment sorting and beach armoring in aeolian sediment transport modeling.
RECESSION OF PREDOMINANTLY SANDY BLUFFS
Authors: Ghazian Arabi Mahsa , Farhadzadeh Ali , Khosravi Ali
Published: February 2019

Climate change and sea level rise are anticipated to accelerate coastal erosion, a major societal issue during the past half-century (Hapke, et al., 2009). While important progress has been made in predicting sandy beach responses to various ocean climates, a similar progress has not been made for coastal bluffs. Coastal bluff recession is a natural process that can become a hazard when it endangers buildings and developed properties. Despite some early works on cohesive shoreline erosion mechanisms (Dalrymple, et al., 1986; Sunamura, 1985), prediction of bluff recession still remains one of the main questions in coastal zone management. Several experiment studies were conducted in wave flumes to investigate the effective parameter. Earlier experiments focused mainly on hard cliff and cohesive bluffs erosion in the 1970s, under normally incident waves and have been reported by Sanders (1968), Horikawa and Sunamura (1970), and Sunamura (1983). During the 1980sâ€“1990s a number of studies were conducted to understand erosion of cohesive coastal profiles with or without an overlying veneer of sand (Nairn, 1986, and Skafel and Bishop, 1994). These works used artificial or prototype clays for the cliff and focused primarily on the erosion process of the clay at beach or foreshore. A recent study by Caplain et al. (2011) investigates the effect of wave climate on the rate of sandy cliff recession in a wave flume. They reported observations of sand movements, sand bars dynamics and cliff recession rate.
THE MORPHODYNAMICS OF A MIXED SEDIMENT EMBAYMENT IN A HIGH TIDAL RANGE ENVIRONMENT
Authors: Fairley Iain , Mendzil Anouska , Horrillo-Caraballo Jose , Reeve Dominic , Karunarathna Harshinie , Masters Ian
Published: February 2019

As anthropogenic use of the coastal zone diversifies, for example marine energy extraction, the coastal environments of interest to coastal engineers and managers is becoming more varied. Increasingly, the morphodynamics of geomorphologically complex, mixed sediment and geologically constrained beaches are important. Even in areas where erosion and inundation risk is low, understanding of changes to morphodynamics is important to inform ecological studies for environmental impact assessments.
SUB-GRID MODELING OF COUPLED HYDRODYNAMIC, VEGETATIVE AND MORPHODYNAMIC PROCESSES IN A SALT MARSH ENVIRONMENT
Authors: Deb Mithun T. , Kirby James T. , Shi Fengyan , Wu Guoxiang , Abdolali Ali
Published: February 2019

Modeling hydrodynamic processes in a salt marsh system is a challenging task, due to the complexity of topographic features and the scale of such features relative to the overall system size. With growing availability of high-resolution topographic measurements, like LiDAR-derived DEM data, it is increasingly desirable to run a high-resolution model in a large domain and for a long period of time to get trends of sedimentation patterns, morphological change and marsh evolution. However, high spatial resolution poses a big challenge in both computational time and memory storage. Vegetation dynamics in a marsh system needs to be properly taken care of with respect to the vegetation zones and elevation from the mean sea level. The interaction between micro-scale topography and vegetation canopy dominates the overall morphological evolution.
CHARACTERIZING THREE-DIMENSIONAL WAVE-DRIVEN MORPHOLOGICAL DIFFUSIVITY IN THE NEARSHORE
Authors: Hopkins Julia , De Schipper Matthieu A.
Published: February 2019

Accurate predictions of the fate of sand nourishments in the nearshore are critical to the management of eroding shorelines. The effectiveness of these nourishments depends on wave and current conditions, which vary with nourishment shape, size, and location. Here, observations of artificial sand mounds, including a new laboratory experiment, are examined to characterize the impact of a range of wave and current conditions on mound evolution and to inform coastal management techniques.
COUPLED HYDRODYNAMIC-HYDROLOGICAL MODELING FOR STORM SURGE INUNDATION IN THE COASTAL AREA
Authors: Son Sangyoung , Lee Chilwoo , Jung Tae-Hwa , Do Kideok
Published: February 2019

Tropical cyclone easily causes inundation damage to low-lying coastal area and the damage may be amplified due to tide motion, sea-level rise, riverine discharges. Specifically, typhoons are accompanied by intensive rainfall, which will of course raise the river water level and thus enhance the flooding damages. If the tidal cycle coincides the high water, flooding will be even aggravated. In the present study, we simulated storm surge motions at the coastal area considering combined effects of tidal and river discharge with aim to improve the accuracy of flooding prediction. The quasi 3-dimension ocean circulation model, Delf3D was used which solves the unsteady shallow water equation in the 2D and 3D. Since Delft3D is much applicable to accommodate the indirect flooding factors such as riverine discharge and short waves, outer-coupled modeling system was established to account for combined tide-surge-riverine discharge effects. In such integrated system, 11 tidal constituents were input as open boundary condition using TPXO 7.2 model, while the water level per unit time was preliminary calculated by HEC-HMS model and input as the upstream boundary conditions for river inside the domain. Typhoon MAEMI which attacked Masan city located at southern coast of South Korea and caused severe inundation damages in 2003 was selected for the study event. Basic information for typhoon such as path, wind speed, atmospheric pressure every 3 hours was provided by the Korea Meteorological Agency and was adopted. The simulation was implemented with tide and storm surge boundary conditions focusing on the target area, Masan, while the additional consideration on the discharge of the river inside the domain was also made. Simulated water level at the fixed location was compared to the observation for its verification and the extent of inundation areas of Masan were compared between observed and calculated. The marginal contribution of riverine discharge on the flooding area(or depth) was assessed by comparing tide-surge with tide-surge-riverine discharge simulations. Finally, the importance of the specific consideration on the riverine discharge during storm surge modeling can be addressed.
NUMERICAL STUDY ON ACCUMULATION MECHANISM OF CORAL GRAVELS AROUND BALLAST ISLAND, THE CORAL CAY OFF THE COAST OF IRIOMOTE ISLAND
Authors: Tajima Yoshimitsu
Published: February 2019

Understanding the formation mechanisms of a coral cay or a coral beach is essentially important to consider better conservation and protection strategies and measures of coral coast. Ballast island is a coral cay formed on the isolated reef located off the coast of Iriomote island, Okinawa, Japan. While this small coral cay frequently alters its shape under the attacks of severe waves, coral gravels gather around the island and keep the island around the same location. This study carries out the field survey and the numerical study to investigate the physical mechanisms of above mentioned characteristic behavior of coral gravels.
TURBULENT OSCILLATORY FLOW OVER RIPPLES AT HIGH REYNOLDS NUMBERS FOR PETA-SCALE SIMULATIONS
Authors: Oyarzun Guillermo , Dimas Athanassios
Published: February 2019

Surface waves in the coastal zone induce oscillatory flow motions in the vicinity of the seabed. These wave-induced coastal flows interact with the sandy seabed and modify the bed shape by generating coherent small-scale bed structures, which are generally known as ripples. The presence of ripples in oscillatory flows is important due to the impact they have on the seabed roughness and how they affect the near-bed boundary layer hydrodynamics. Simulations of higher and more real-scale Reynolds number (Re) require the use of supercomputers in order to obtain results in a reasonable amount of time. However, the constant evolution of the computing facilities makes the development of parallel algorithms a rather difficult task. The objective of the proposed research is to advance in the comprehension of coastal processes utilizing high performance computing (HPC) for the numerical simulation of the three-dimensional, turbulent flow, which is induced in the coastal zone by wave propagation. In particular, our CFD code (SimuCoast) has been developed using a hybrid MPI+OpenACC execution model that increases its scalability and allows it to engage the vast majority of high-end supercomputers. Special attention has been paid in the parallelization strategy of the Poisson solver that is the most computational demanding operation.
SAND WAVE EVOLUTION MODEL FOR EFFICIENT CHANNEL DEPTH MANAGEMENT
Authors: Ono Nobuyuki , Nakamura Satoshi
Published: February 2019

Sand wave is a consecutive wavy bedform on seabed with several meters in wave height and several tens-hundreds of meters in wave length. If the crests of sand waves rise above the required channel depth, they often prevent vessels from safe navigation. In this study, a prediction model of sand wave evolution is applied to predict depth change at the crest of sand waves in Kanmon route, Japan. Kanmon route is a long, narrow and winding channel where strong tidal currents take place due to large tidal difference between Japan sea and Seto-island sea. In these area, a lot of bathymetric survey data have been collected to monitor the water depth. Also, channel deepening project up to -14 m is underway, and therefore reliable prediction model of sand wave evolution is needed for channel depth management in the future.
A VORTEX DROP STRUCTURE AS DEAERATION SYSTEM FOR A SUBMARINE OUTFALL PIPELINE
Authors: GarcÃ­a Rolando
Published: February 2019

Use of submarine outfall pipelines became more common since World Bank Group issued a new guideline for maximum emissions levels for thermal power plants in 1998 (van Dijk, 2005). The more restrictive levels for temperature increase at the receiving water, requires outfall systems to conduct the water down to greater depths to achieve the required dilution standard. However, air entrainment control into outfall pipes could be challenging, especially for discharges with high flowrates for which conventional deaeration chambers become too large. The problem could turn more difficult in coastal shelf areas at seismic zones, where the hydraulic height of the incoming flow must be effectively controlled and the design not only has to pursue hydraulic objectives but also stability requirements for these massive structures subjected to relevant seismic thrusts. A vortex drop structure was designed for the cooling water discharge system of a thermal power plant in Mejillones Bay, Chile. The structure addresses the elevation difference between the return flow pipe and the ocean outfall pipelines while adhering to the spatial restrictions at the project site. Energy dissipation as well as limitation of air entrainment into the outfall pipelines were critical design considerations. Tests where done on a 1:12.5 scale (Froude) physical model. Prototype structure is under construction. Operation is planned to start on mid-2018.
MODEL TESTS ON WAVE TRANSMISSION COEFFICIENT FOR RUBBLE MOUND STRUCTURES WITH SUPERSTRUCTURES
Authors: Kim Young-Taek , Lee Jong-In , Shin Sungwon
Published: February 2019

The coastal structures, such as breakwaters, are constructed to provide the calm basin for ships and to protect the harbor facilities. The adequate design and the evaluation of design parameters are indispensable. The determination of crest height of coastal structures is one of the most important design process among all procedures. The allowable wave overtopping, the relative crest height (Rc/Hs) and the wave transmission could be applied to design the crest height of structures. The previous studies on the wave transmission coefficients were mainly conducted about the low crested structures. The previous design method could not cover the conventional breakwaters with superstructures. In this study, the wave transmission coefficient for rubble mound structures with superstructures would be investigated with hydraulic model tests.
CAISSON WALL BREAKAGE OF SLOPING TOP BREAKWATER DUE TO COLLISION OF LARGE WAVE DISSIPATING BLOCKS
Authors: Suzuki Kojiro , Shimosako Kenichiro , Gushi Ryota
Published: February 2019

A sloping top breakwater covered with wave dissipating blocks (STBWB) has been developed and placed in service under extremely large wave conditions in Japan. The U-breakwater in N-port, designed as an STBWB, and constructed using 50t Dolos (Kd number 20) has been in service since the 1980s. Recently, newly developed 100t wave dissipating blocks (Kd number 10) were used to extend the U-breakwater. The stability of the new U-breakwater blocks was certificated by hydraulic experiment of detailed design. However, breakage of caisson wall, as shown in Figure 1, was caused by the large wave energy of Typhoon 19 in 2014. To clarify the failure mechanics, we conducted a series of hydraulic experiments.
MULTIPLE IMPACTS OF DEBRIS ON A VERTICAL OBSTACLE
Authors: Goseberg Nils , Stolle Jacob , Nistor Ioan
Published: February 2019

Past tsunami events have caused extreme damage in coastal regions. Examples are the Indian Ocean Tsunami in 2004 and the Tohuku Tsunami in 2011. These extreme natural disasters brought into light the devastating nature which tsunami-induced inundation might inflict when propagating on-land. As a result of eye-witness reports and extensive media coverage, a wealth of evidence showing multi-phase fluid motion entraining a solid phase consisting of entrained debris, ranging from sediment grains to large vessels became available. In this context, debris impacts have been linked to major infrastructural damage (Yeh et al. 2012). This observation resulted in increased research emphasis on tsunami-driven debris impact. It also initiated the inclusion of first debris impact force equations in existing building codes such as FEMA (P-646 2012) and ASCE (Standard 7-16 Chapter 6). There are however still a lot of uncertainties on factors influencing tsunami-driven debris impact. Besides the random, probabilistic nature of debris entrainment, advection by the entraining flow and the uncertainty related to impact points, no guidance exists as to how multiple impacts of debris can be accounted for. In addition, little focus was directed to impact forces on non-rigid structures which investigated here for the first time.
A DESIGN METHOD OF THE SEA WALL AND WATER APRON BY THE TSUNAMI
Authors: Katou Hiroyuki , Iwase Hiroyuki , Matsutomi Hideo
Published: February 2019

Many of the coastal conservation facilities of the fishing port were severely damaged by the wave force of the 2011 Tohoku earthquake tsunami. We evaluated the tsunami wave force by conventional hydrostatic pressure for the sea wall of the fishing port. In addition, we considered the acting force and the acting range for the water apron of the sea wall during tsunami over flow, and presented a reasonable design of the sea wall. The tsunami wave force for the sea wall is not sufficiently examine by the seabed gradient, the position of structure and the back slope of the sea wall.
HYDRODYNAMIC BEHAVIORS OF LARGE STEEL-CYLINDRICAL COFFERDAM SYSTEM FOR MARINE STRUCTURES CONSTRUCTION
Authors: Jeong Youn-Ju , Kim Jeong-Soo , Park Min-Su , Song Sung-Hoon
Published: February 2019

Some cofferdam systems have been applied for marine structures construction of bridges, marine foundation, and etc. Recently, new cofferdam system using large steel-cylindrical members proposed to reduce marine working periods and to improve economic of marine working. In order to construct marine cofferdam system with large steel-cylindrical members, (step 1) some modules composing of a large steel-cylindrical cofferdam system fabricate with typical height in steel factory, and (step 2) move to the construction site onto the barge towing. Then, (step 3) large steel-cylindrical cofferdam system completes by module to module connection with vertical direction in seawater. Finally, (step 4) inside water of large steel-cylindrical cofferdam draw out by pumping, and (step 5) the marine structures are constructed under land based conditions. This cofferdam system has advantages to reduce marine working period and to secure structural safety uniformly.
EFFECTS OF WAVE LOADING CONDITIONS ON THE FRAGILITY OF PILE-SUPPORTED WHARVES/PIERS
Authors: Balomenos Georgios P. , Padgett Jamie E.
Published: February 2019

Pile-supported wharves/piers are often subjected to extreme forces caused by coastal hazards. For instance, hurricanes Katrina (2005) and Wilma (2005) caused significant structural damage to pile-supported piers (Gutierrez et al. 2006) and wharves (Bardi et al. 2007), respectively. The problem becomes more pressing as the hazard exposure of these structures evolves with sea level rise caused by climate change (Lamberti et al. 2011). Thus, in light of gaps in the risk assessment of these structures in hurricane prone regions, Balomenos and Padgett (2018a) proposed the first probabilistic framework for developing analytical fragility models for pile-supported wharves/piers vulnerable to hurricane-induced storm surge and waves. Then, Balomenos and Padgett (2018b) adopted this framework to provide an initial exploration into the sensitivity of the fragility estimate to epistemic uncertainties in the wave load model. However, considering that the wave period may have a significant variation at or near the coast based on reported periods during hurricanes Katrina and Rita (Dietrich et al. 2011), this study further explores the influence of hazard parameter variation on the resulting failure probability of these structures, while propagating uncertainties in other parameters such as concrete compressive strength, deck thickness, etc.
AGED ASPHALTIC DIKE REVETMENTS ON (SATURATED) SAND TESTED IN A LARGE DELTAFLUME
Authors: Wichman Bernadette , Breteler Mark Klein , De Looff Arjan , Hateboer Jan
Published: February 2019

In the Netherlands, 600 km of the sea dikes are protected by an asphaltic revetment which must resist considerable wave loads with a significant wave height of up to 4.5 m. The subsoil is normally sandy, and the asphalt layer can fail as a result of fatigue due to repeated loading under storm conditions (Wichman & Davise 2016). Fifty years old asphalt has been taken from the Dutch Lauwersmeer dike and placed on a sand body in the large Deltaflume at Deltares, where it is possible to generate large waves (up to 4 meters). It is still unsure how the asphalt will fail, while interacting with the sandy subsoil, depending on the position of the phreatic line, among other factors.
ON THE ASSESMENT OF DETACHED BREAKWATERS ON A SEA-BREEZE DOMINATED BEACH
Authors: Torres-Freyermuth Alec , MedellÃ­n Gabriela , Mendoza Tonatiuh , Ojeda Elena , Salles Paulo
Published: February 2019

Sandy beaches provide habitat and natural protection to coastal areas against extreme events. Beach erosion is ubiquitous of coastlines around the world and is very important given the implications in the loss of land and infrastructure in coastal areas. This problem is particularly relevant in low-lying coasts, with shallow and extended continental shelves, considering the increasing trends on the frequency, intensity of storms (waves, currents and surges), and the sea level rise due to climate change. Mitigation measures encompass different approaches including soft and hard engineering solutions. The Yucatan coast (Mexico) has experienced beach erosion over the past decades. More recently, detached breakwaters have been constructed to mitigate beach erosion. Thus, we investigate both permeable and impermeable structures performance in this area.
SETTLEMENT OF ROCK SEAWALL ON ERODING FORESHORE OF SAND BEACH
Authors: Kim Hyun Dong , Kobayashi Nobuhisa
Published: February 2019

The effectiveness of structures placed on the foreshore of a sand beach and a berm was tested and confirmed to reduce wave overtopping and sand overwash, expanding upon the previous comparison test conducted by Kim et al. (2016) with using sand and two different sizes of stones shown in Table 1. Test contains two test series of a rock seawall (Series R) and a dune with a buried seawall (Series B) on the foreshore as shown initial of the two structures in Figure 1 which reduced both wave overtopping and sand overwash even after its deformation. Damage was inflicted upon these two structures which seems to be caused by either stone displacement or structure settlement. To find out which was the case, detailed analysis has been conducted, along with an application of the cross-shore numerical model CSHORE (Kobayashi 2016) for the purpose of simulating sand and stone interactions in the swash zone on the sand beach.
LOADING ON PIPELINES DUE TO EXTREME HYDRODYNAMIC CONDITIONS
Authors: Ghodoosipour Behnaz , Stolle Jacob , Nistor Ioan , Mohammadian Majid , Simpalean Adrian Raul
Published: February 2019

Proper design of pipelines used for oil, gas, water and wastewater transmission is of great importance. This is even more critical when pipelines are located in nearshore, coastal areas that are exposed to extreme hydrodynamic events, such as tsunami and storm surges. The American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE)), in its ASCE7 Chapter 6: Tsunami Loads and Effects, the new standard for tsunami impacts and loading stresses the necessity to study tsunami loads on pipelines. Understanding the hydrodynamic forces acting on the pipelines is vital in ensuring their safe operation and avoiding potential damage to the environment. To address these issues, the following study is the first of its kind to investigate loading on pipelines due to tsunami-like bores.
A CASE STUDY ON PERFORMANCE OF RESHAPING BERM BREAKWATERS: ORDU GIRESUN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, TURKEY
Authors: Tarakcioglu Gulizar Ozyurt , Baykal Cuneyt , Bezazoglu Semih , Atak Dogukan , Ergin Aysen , Guler Isikhan
Published: February 2019

In this study, the stability and serviceability (wave overtopping) of hardly-reshaping berm breakwater of Ordu-Giresun International Airport and four alternative cross-sections of fully- and partly-reshaping berm breakwaters are assessed by physical model experiments. Ordu-Giresun International Airport is a public airport constructed on an approximately 1.77 km-square reclaimed land at the eastern Black Sea coast of Turkey. The reclaimed land area is protected with a 7345 m long hardly reshaping rubble mound berm breakwater at a depth of 11 m (MSL). The design high water level (HWL) corresponding to 100-yr return period is calculated as +1.12 m. The bottom slope from deep water up to 20 m water depth is around 1:50 and becomes steeper (1:20) towards the shore. The design wave characteristics at the toe of the structure (100-yr return period) is determined as Hs = 6.68m, Tm= 10.80 sec.
EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON BORE WAVE PRESSURE ACTING ON STORAGE TANK
Authors: Araki Susumu , Kunimatsu Wataru , Kitaguchi Shunyo , Iwasaki Shun , Aoki Shin-ichi
Published: February 2019

Storage tanks located in coastal areas can be damaged by tsunami. The damage can lead a spill of gas or oil, which cause an extensive fire. Another huge tsunami triggered by earthquake is predicted to strike Japan in the near future. Therefore, tsunami wave load acting on storage tanks has to be investigated. The authors have investigated the characteristics of tsunami wave load acting on a storage tank (Araki et al., 2017a; 2017b). In this study, bore wave pressure acting on a cylindrical storage tank was measured. The characteristic of the pressure was discussed.
EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON DEVELOPMENT OF LONG-SPAN FLAP-GATE TYPE SEAWALL FOR TSUNAMI AND STORM SURGE
Authors: Hirano Mizuki , Kimura Yuichiro , Mizutani Norimi , Hiraishi Tetsuya
Published: February 2019

A flap-gate type movable seawall, which usually lies down on the ground, rises up automatically by buoyancy during inundation by tsunamis or storm surges, and then it forms a continuous seawall. This structure keeps lying in usual time to secure traffic and landscape. In emergence time, it protects a target area against inundation without power machineries and human operation. It is named NEORISE which means No Energy and no Operation RIsing SEawall, as shown in Figure.1.(Kimura 2014) The NEORISE system is equipped with counterweights hung by wire ropes connected with pins set on both sides of the top of a gate, inserting grooves of side-walls installed on both sides of the gate, through a pulley, and the counterweights assist the gate in rising and standing.(Kimura 2015) The counterweight reaches the lowest location in the middle of the gateâ€™s motion from the lying state to the standing state, and it works as an offsets to weight of the lying gate and as a brake for the moving gate just before standing.
HYDRAULIC STABILITY AND OVERTOPPING PERFORMANCE OF A NEW TYPE OF REGULAR PLACED ARMOR UNIT
Authors: Reedijk Bas , Eggeling Tamara , Bakker Pieter , Jacobs Robert , Muttray Markus
Published: February 2019

Single layer, randomly placed, interlocking concrete units are widely used for the protection of exposed breakwaters. Based on 15 years of experience with Xbloc projects around the world, DMC started the development of an armour unit called XblocPlus. XblocPlus is a single layer concrete unit which is placed in a regular pattern. An essential part of this development were hydraulic model tests in 2D and in 3D to determine the hydraulic stability under wave loading and the overtopping volumes for the new units. These studies and the results regarding the stability, failure mechanisms and roughness coefficient are described in this paper.
DESIGN OPTIMIZATION OF EAST LONDON FORESHORE PROTECTION DURING CONSTRUCTION
Authors: Letsie Masupha , Setaka Malefetsane
Published: February 2019

Transnet Group Capital (TGC) was appointed by

Transnet National Ports Authority (TNPA) to manage

construction of a revetment at East London Foreshore

in East London, South Africa. The revetment

construction was initiated to halt a 40 m regression of

the reclaimed land between the grain elevator and the

sea. This area accommodates the access road to the

terminus yard as well as the rail lines that serve the grain

elevator.
INVESTIGATING LOW-CRESTED BREAKWATER PERFORMANCE FOR THE DESIGN OF THE NEW ORLEANS MUNICIPAL YACHT HARBOR
Authors: Hanegan Kevin , Pearson Adrian , Williams Chris
Published: February 2019

The New Orleans Municipal Yacht Harbor (MYH) is located on the south shore of Lake Pontchartrain, 6 miles north of downtown New Orleans. The harbor was damaged during Hurricane Katrina in 2005, and recent city planning efforts have proposed reconstruction of the harbor interior. Moffatt & Nichol led the design, including the hydrodynamic study which established the marine design criteria. The site is exposed to high surge events which can inundate the harborâ€™s broad, low-crested earthen breakwater and allow waves to transmit directly into the interior.
IMPACT FORCE OF FLOOD-BORNE VEHICLES
Authors: Kaida Hideki , Kihara Naoto , Takabatake Daisuke
Published: February 2019

Tsunami, hurricane storm surge, and waves generate debris such as shipping containers, wood logs, and vehicles. Impact forces exerted on structures in the inundation zone by such debris might result in severe structural damage of structures. Thus, reliable prediction of debris impact force is essential for the safe design and risk assessment of structures in the inundation zone. In this study, we carried out full-scale air-borne and flood-borne vehicle impact experiments. The experimental results enable characterization of the vehicle impact and prove the applicability of a theoretical equation (Haehnel and Daly, (2004)) in which the impact force of debris is estimated by using the impact velocity, axial stiffness, and mass of the debris. In addition, by analyzing NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration)â€™s experimental data, a list of axial stiffness for various types of vehicles was constructed, which is important in predicting the flood-borne vehicle impact force.
NUMERICAL MODELING OF WAVE INTERACTION WITH A NON-CONVENTIONAL BREAKWATER FOR WAVE ENERGY CONVERSION
Authors: Di Lauro Enrico , Maza Maria , Lara Javier L. , Losada Inigo J. , Vicinanza Diego
Published: February 2019

The hybrid non-conventional breakwaters are innovative coastal structures, which have as a primary function the coastal and harbours protection, but with the important benefit of electricity production, due to their combination with Wave Energy Converters. The most recent example of a non-conventional breakwater is called OBREC, standing for Overtopping Breakwater for Energy Conversion (Vicinanza et al., 2014). The device consists of a traditional rubble mound breakwater, in which the seaward armour layer in the upper part is replaced with a frontal sloping ramp and a reservoir. The structure is designed to capture and gather the water that overtops the crest ramp. The potential energy of the water stored in the reservoir is converted into kinetic energy and then into electrical energy by flowing through low head hydraulic turbines coupled with generators, exploiting the different water levels between the reservoir and the sea level.
VERIFICATION OF SEEPAGE FLOW CALCULATION BASED ON FLUID-GROUND WEAK COUPLING ANALYSIS MODEL
Authors: Okajima Riku , Ohki Yuki , Taenaka Shinji , Moriyasu Shunsuke , Deji Takeji , Ueda Hideki , Seki Katsumi , Arikawa Taro
Published: February 2019

In order to evaluate destruction of coastal structure caused by tsunami, it is essential to establish coupling method of fluid and ground. Arikawa et. Al.(2009) developed the model using weak coupling method of fluid analysis and ground analysis (named as CADMAS-STR). It is performed by mutual communication between pressure on fluid side and displacement on structure side. Based on boundary pressure from the fluid side, the ground side calculates seepage flow analysis using Biot's equation. On the other hand, the fluid side converts the ground region to porosity and calculates the resistance force to calculate seepage on the fluid side. In this study, based on Yoshioka's research, we applied Dupuit-Forchheimer's rule in CADMAS-STR's fluid resistance calculation, and verify its validity by comparing it with physical experiment. Furthermore, we compared pore water pressure
OVERTOPPING AND STABILITY OF A RUBBLE MOUND BREAKWATER WITH CORELOC ARMOUR UNDER OBLIQUE CYCLONIC WAVES
Authors: Martinelli L. , Ruol P. , Favaretto C. , Volpato M.
Published: February 2019

This note presents the physical model tests carried out on the new breakwater in the fishing harbour of Mirbat (Sultanate of Oman), designed for a cyclonic wave Hs = 6.0 m and for a 200 year return period wind wave Hs = 3.2 m. Based on this experience, the behaviour of a rubble mound breakwater subject to wind waves that are much smaller than the design cyclonic wave height is discussed. We shall define the wave climate in this case as â€œcyclonicâ€. The initial interlocking (during construction) that does not â€œgrowâ€ during the lifetime as usual and the expected cyclonic wave is likely to produce larger damage than predicted by the design formulae, that on the contrary rely on such interlocking. Under oblique waves, the importance of unit interlocking is even greater due to the sub-horizontal loads and therefore the case of cyclonic wave climates requires a larger safety margin.
BREAKING WAVE DETECTION WITH THE PHASE-TIME METHOD (PTM) REVISITED
Authors: Schimmels Stefan , Liberzon Dan
Published: February 2019

Breaking waves are a very complicated phenomenon associated with high energy transfer rates and turbulence levels and can create tremendous loads when impacting on a structure. Therefore an exact understanding of the wave breaking process is of major interest in coastal and offshore engineering research. In this context the point of breaking inception is of critical importance, e.g. for breaking wave impact studies, but despite lots of research efforts still no objective and unique criterion exists and the breaking point needs to be estimated by tedious and subjective analysis of video data. The Phase-Time Method (PTM), as introduced by Huang et al. (1992), was shown to be able to overcome these discrepancies and to provide an objective method for the determination of the point of breaking inception as demonstrated by Zimmermann and Seymour (2002) and Irschik et al. (2010). However, their threshold based approaches still seem to be slightly ambiguous and lack general validity. In the present work the PTM and the suggested breaking detection methods will be reviewed and thoroughly evaluated. The most critical issues will be addressed and new approaches to interpret the PTM data will be proposed.
MISALIGNMENT AND LAG TIME OF WIND AND WAVE OCCURRENCE BASED ON 10 YEARS MEASUREMENTS IN THE NORTH SEA NEAR THE GERMAN COAST
Authors: Hildebrandt Arndt , Cossu Remo
Published: February 2019

There are several intentions to analyze the correlation of wind and wave data, especially in the North Sea. Fatigue damage is intensified by wind and wave loads acting from different directions, due to the misaligned aerodynamic damping of the rotor regarding the wave loads from lateral directions. Furthermore, construction time and costs are mainly driven by the operational times of the working vessels, which strongly depend on the wind and wave occurrence and correlation. Turbulent wind can rapidly change its direction and intensity, while the inert water waves react slowly in relation to the wind profile. Tuerk (2008) investigates the impact of wind and turbulence on offshore wind turbines by analyzing data of four years. The study shows that the wave height is increasing with higher wind speeds but when the wind speed drops the reaction of the waves is postponed. The dependence of the wave height on the wind speed is varying because of the atmospheric stability and different wind directions. Fischer et al. (2011) estimated absolute values of misalignment between wind and waves located in the Dutch North Sea. The study presents decreasing misalignment for increasing wind speeds, ranging up to 90 degrees for wind speeds below 12 m/s and up to 30 degrees for wind speeds above 20 m/s. Bredmose et al. (2013) present a method of offshore wind and wave simulation by using metocean data. The study describes characteristics of the wind and wave climate for the North and Baltic Sea as well as the directional distribution of wind and waves. GÃ¼ner et al. (2013) cover the development of a statistical wave model for the Karaburun coastal zone located at the southwest coast of the Black Sea with the help of wind and wave measurements and showed that the height of the waves is directly correlating with the duration of the wind for the last four hours.
EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF THE FLOW INDUCED BY WAVES IN THE VICINITY OF A DETACHED LOW-CRESTED (ZERO FREEBOARD) BREAKWATER
Authors: Galani Konstantina A. , Dimas Athanassios A.
Published: February 2019

The combined action of environmental forcing (waves, coastal currents, sediment transport, e.t.c.), the continuously decreasing supply of coastal areas with sediment from rivers, as well as the intense anthropogenic activity, results in the appearance of severe erosion problems in coastal areas and constantly decreasing beach width. A frequently used coastal protection measure is the construction of detached breakwaters parallel to the coastline. Detached breakwaters have a direct effect on the incoming waves, which contributes to the control of coastal sediment transport, hence the morphodynamics of the coastal bed. There are many examples of such structures, the majority of which are emerged breakwaters. Recently, interest has been directed towards the construction of low-crested (LC) and submerged breakwaters due to the reduced construction cost and a more effective harmonization with the natural environment. These structures are characterized by wave overtopping and breaking over their crest in addition to all other coastal processes that are involved with emerged breakwaters. For the proper design of such structures, one critical aspect is the behavior of the induced flow in their vicinity due to their presence. To this purpose, several studies have been carried out in recent years. In particular, Petti et al. (1994) studied experimentally the large scale vortices developed by waves breaking above a submerged breakwater. Mory and Hamm (1997) performed measurements of wave height, surface elevation and wave generated currents around a detached breakwater for incoming regular and irregular waves. Kramer et al. (2005) performed a series of experimental measurements in order to study the waves - LC structure interaction, in terms of flow velocity and turbulence developing around such structures within the European Project DE.LO.S. Garcia et al. (2004), Losada et al. (2005), Johnson et al. (2005) e.t.c. used the database created within the DE.LO.S. project to develop and validate numerical codes for the simulation of wave-induced flow around LC breakwaters. The aim of the present study was the experimental study of the flow developed by waves in the vicinity of an LC rubble mound breakwater with crest level at the water line (zero freeboard). The geometrical scale of the physical model was 1/30. The breakwater was placed on a beach of constant slope 1/15, which is typical of steep beaches in Greece.
FUTURE WAVE PROJECTION DURING THE TYPHOON AND WINTER STORM SEASON
Authors: Nishizaki Shinsaku , Nakamura Ryota , Shibayama Tomoya , Stolle Jacob
Published: February 2019

IPCCâ€™s AR5 stated that it is more likely than not that the frequency of tropical cyclones (TCs) will decrease and that the intensity of TCs will increase over the Western North Pacific in the late 21st century. Until now, many researchers have tried to project wave climate according to various climate change scenario (Hemer et al., 2013). Most studies focus on the change of mean and extreme wave heights. These indices are important to evaluate the effects on coastal structures in terms of natural disaster prevention. However, the effect of climate change on wave conditions induced by extreme events is still vague. The aim of this study is to evaluate the effects of future climate change on wave conditions from one-month simulations including periods of extreme events based on the pseudo-warming method (Sato et al., 2007) with the most recent IPCC scenario.
COUPLING SPECTRAL AND PHASE-RESOLVING WAVE MODEL FOR FORECASTING OF EXTREME WAVES IN WIND SEAS
Authors: Kirezci Cagil , Babanin Alexander V.
Published: February 2019

â€˜â€™Freakâ€™â€™ or â€˜â€™Rogueâ€™â€™ waves, when single individual wave height exceed two times of the significant wave height (Hi>2Hs), has been considered as one of the most dangerous sea states. Freak waves are believed to have caused many catastrophes, which result in ship damage and human casualties (Kharif and Pelinovsky, 2003). Occurrence of such waves are extremely unlikely according to Rayleigh distribution (Dean, 1990), however, in real ocean conditions occurrence of such events are higher than commonly used distributions. The main objective of this study is the coupling of Spectral WaveWatch III (WW3) model and phase resolving wave models, which will advance the application of the third generation wave models one-step further and increase the precision of model outputs and forecasting of such â€œunlikelyâ€ extreme conditions.
THE â€œCROSSOVERâ€ PROJECT: WAVE OVERTOPPING UNDER DIRECTIONALLY BIMODAL WAVE ATTACK
Authors: Bruce Tom , Franco Leopoldo , Romano Alessandro , Menendez Melisa , Reis Maria Teresa , Pinheiro Liliana , Van der Meer Jentsje
Published: February 2019

It is common for the local sea state in coastal waters to be a complex combination of waves due to local and recent wind (the â€œseaâ€) and long period waves resulting from earlier weather systems, which have travelled many 100s of km with little attenuation of these very long waves (the â€œswellâ€). Sea and swell may have very different directions and periods. The CrossOver project was born out of the recognition that there is an absence of guidance on the influence of directionally bimodal (or bidirectional, or â€˜crossingâ€™) seas on wave overtopping at a coastal defence. Through a physical model study carried out in the Delta Basin, the â€œCrossOverâ€ project is beginning to fill this gap in the knowledge.
BOUSSINESQ MODELING OF SHIP-WAKES AND THEIR CONTRIBUTION TO COASTAL EROSION IN AN ADAPTIVE MESH REFINEMENT SYSTEM
Authors: Shi Fengyan , Choi Young-Kwang , Malej Matt , Smith Jane M. , Kirby James T.
Published: February 2019

Heavy ship traffic causes a growing concern with respect to public safety, potential damage of coastal structures, and corresponding environmental impacts. High-speed ship-generated wakes such as solitons, undular bores, and breaking bores behave differently compared to wind waves and have a great potential for damage in vulnerable areas such as low-energy coasts and wetlands. In this study, we are developing a multi-grid model framework for the Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Wave Model, FUNWAVE-TVD (Shi et al., 2012), for simulating ship-wakes in both the operational scale and refined process scales using full two-way coupling. Physical processes in areas of interest requiring higher model resolution, such as the ship-wake generation region, wave breaking in the near-field, and wave evolution with wave-structure interaction in the nearshore field, will be modeled in refined grids embedded in the operational-scale domain. A dynamically adaptive grid algorithm is implemented in order to track a vessel and calculate the physical processes precisely in the wave generation and breaking region in the vicinity of the vessel. Both pressure source and panel source methods for ship wave generation will be tested in the model framework. A concept of nesting layers based on the hierarchical basis, and an efficient parallelization method in the context of the full domain partition are utilized to allow the model to deal with a large-scale computation efficiently in a High Performance Computing (HPC) system.
A NUMERICAL STUDY OF THE IMPORTANCE OF NONLINEAR EFFECTS FOR FABRY-PEROT RESONANCE OF WATER WAVES
Authors: Benoit Michel , Zhang Jie
Published: February 2019

When a regular wave train propagates over a patch of periodic bottom corrugations on an otherwise flat bottom (with still water depth h), the so called Bragg resonance phenomenon can appear, leading to a significant reflection of the incident waves due to the presence of the ripple patch. This effect is maximum when the wavelength of the surface waves (noted A = 2n/k) is twice that of the bottom ripples (noted Ab = 2n/kb). This phenomenon has been studied both experimentally (e.g. Davies & Heathershaw, 1984) and theoretically within the linear wave theory framework (e.g. Mei, 1985; Dalrymple & Kirby, 1986).