Gather your materials. Cut a stocking pattern. Cut stocking shapes out of the fabric. Cut a rectangle of white felt. Sew the fabric together. Attach the white felt to the top of the stocking. Connect a ribbon to hang your stocking.

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To sew a homemade Christmas stocking you will need a few supplies from your local craft or fabric store. Gather all of the materials before beginning, and make sure you have a clear table to work on.  Large piece of paper ¼ to ⅓ of a yard of quilting fabric or felt for each stocking. Pick a design you like, plaids or stripes in Christmas colors look great. White felt for the top of the stocking. Scissors Pins Needle and thread, or sewing machine Draw a stocking shape onto a large piece of paper. You can freehand draw the stocking shape, or you can find a pattern online and print it out to trace. Use the stocking pattern to cut 2 stocking shapes out of the fabric you have. Make sure the two stocking shapes are exactly the same. It's best to use a pattern, but if you freehand draw your stocking shape, you need to trace it for the second stocking shape. Cut the rectangle the width of your stocking and 1 ½ inches tall. Use pinking shears to give the felt a textured edge. Line up the two stocking pieces together with the "right" side of the fabric touching each other. Sew the edges of the two stocking pieces together. When you finish sewing along the edges and the bottom of the stocking, flip the stocking so that the outside or "right" side of the fabric is out.  Make sure you do not sew the top of the fabric so that you can put things in the stocking. Use a thread color that matches the color of your fabric. Sew the white felt to the top of the fabric using white thread. Attach a ribbon or a thin piece of felt to hang your stocking. Sew the ribbon onto the corner on the inside of the back of the stocking.


Gather your materials. Cut out 6 to 8 petals in two sizes. Line the petals up. Sew the petals together. Gather the petals together. Gather the rose together. Glue the rose. Cover the bottom of the rose and add a pin.

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For a basic fabric rose, you'll need some fabric (no more than a foot or two should be necessary), scissors, a needle and thread, and a hot glue gun. Cut the fabric into petal shapes. You'll want some of the petals to be slightly larger than others. Make half of them smaller, and half of them larger. To make petal shapes, cut the fabric into ovals, then cut off one of the ends of the ovals. Lay the petals in a line so that they all overlap each other a little. Place the smaller petals at the beginning and the larger ones at the end. Sew along the bottoms of the petals, using loose, longer stitches. Pull the running stitch a little to gather to petals in a bunch. Tie a knot where the flower petals are gathered to keep them bunched up. Bring the edges of the petal row together to form a circle. Make sure the bottom edges are aligned. You should have a circular flower with all the petals facing outward. Take a low-temp glue gun and apply a little glue on the bottom of the rose. You want to glue together all the ends of the petals, where they all meet in the center. Attach a small piece of felt to the bottom with hot glue to hide all the rough edges. Then you can run a safety pin through the bottom to wear the rose as a brooch.


Gather your materials. Cut out a basic beak pattern. Sew the beak. Cut out the eye pieces. Piece the eyes together. Glue a few feathers to the back of each eye. Adhere the eyes to the hood. Sew the fringe to the outside of each arm. Put it all together.

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To make this costume, you will need:  Sewing supplies Black felt Yellow felt White felt Black hooded sweatshirt Hot glue Dark pants and shoes Sketch out two hooked beak halves onto black felt. Use sharp scissors to cut both pieces out.  You can freehand sketch the beak pattern, if desired. Note that you need to draw the beak from a side view, rather than a top view. The base should be somewhat rectangular, but the beak itself should appear as a hooked or curved triangular shape. Your beak should be large enough to attach to your sweatshirt and make the hood of the black sweatshirt look like the bird’s head. The size may be dependent on if you are an adult or a kid. Lay the two beak pieces on top of each other and sew along the top edge. Place the beak on the top of the hood, just above the opening, and sew the base of the beak onto the hood.  Since felt doesn't fray, you do not need to turn the material inside-out as you work. Make sure that your seams are neat and even, however, to prevent the work from looking messy. The beak should be positioned in the center of the hood and should hang over the face area when you put the hood on your head. For each eye, you will need a yellow circle, a black circle, and a white semi-circle.  The yellow circles should be about 3 inches in diameter. The black circles should be about 2.5 inches in diameter. The white semi-circle should be about 1 inch in diameter. Lay the black circle on top of the yellow circle, precisely centered. Glue in place. Lay the white semi-circle on top of the black circle so that the flat edge lies in the center of the black circle. Glue in place.  Use fabric glue or hot glue for this. Let dry before pressing on. Cut off a few individual feathers from your strip of feathered fringe. Turn each eye over to reveal the back, and glue these feathers around about half of each eye. Note that the feathers should fan out from the side of the eye facing the flat side of your white semi-circular portion. Position the eyes on either side of the beak on the...


Gather your materials. Cut out a gray wing. Cut out a black wing. Sew the wings together. Attach two pieces of ribbon to the neck of the wing cape. Measure a gray sweatshirt. Secure the feathers to the sweatshirt. Make an owl mask. Put it all together.

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Before you get started, you will want to gather enough materials to successfully complete the outfit. Acquire:  Brown, gray, and black fabric - enough to stretch from the finger on one hand to another. You want it wide enough to make a cape to attach feathers Additional fabric to create enough feathers to attach to your wings A circle template to make large enough hole for your head. A standard dinner plate is a good size Hot glue Ribbon or elastic Sewing machine or needle and thread A plain gray sweatshirt you do not mind cutting/gluing things to (cheap ones can be found in consignment shops or craft stores) Gray sweatpants A craft mask or a homemade cut-out mask from craft board, foam, or fabric Cut out a length of gray felt that is as wide as your arm span and as long as the distance between your neck and the back of your knees. From this, cut out a basic wing shape.  Position a dinner plate face-down over the center top of the fabric. Trace around half the edge using chalk, then cut this portion out. This dip will be positioned around your neck when you wear the wing cape. Place a straight edge at the corner of your neckline. Run it downward diagonally at a 20 degree angle (approximately) until you reach the edge of the cape. Trace this line and repeat on the other side. Cut along the two lines. This will be the top of your cape. Create a zig-zag line all around the bottom of the cape. Sketch out a half circle extending from one end of your wing to the other. Draw alternating triangles and inverse triangles around this curve until you reach the other side. Cut along this line. This completes the top wing of your wing cape. Place your first wing on top of a larger piece of black felt. Trace along the neckline and top edge of the wing using chalk, but extend the edge past that of your gray wing by the length of your triangular zig-zags. Cut along these lines, then make your zig-zag pattern on the bottom edge of the black wing. When you make the zig-zag pattern for this wing, the triangles and inverted...


Gather your materials. Cut out the flower shapes. Prepare the base. Place the first flower shape. Glue the rest of the flower shapes. Add the final petals. Fluff the petals so that it looks more like a flower.

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To make a French Pouf rose, you'll need a few feet of fabric, scissors, and a hot glue gun. Draw a basic flower shape on a piece of fabric the size that you want our flower to be. It can be as large or small as you'd like, but working with flowers smaller than about two inches across will be difficult. Around 4" will work well. Cut along the line. Then use the first flower shape to trace the same shape on four to nine other pieces of fabric.  Cut out all the flower shapes.  To draw a flower shape, start with a circle, then draw half circles around the circle. If you want, you can print out and use of the templates provided here http://www.oneprojectcloser.com/make-fabric-flowers-tutorial/. How many flower shapes of fabric you use depends on how thick the fabric you're using is. Make fewer when using thicker fabric. Cut out a small circle of fabric. If you cut your flower shapes around 4" wide, a 2" inch wide circle will do. Place a dot of hot glue in the center of the circle. Fold one of the flower shapes in half. Place the edge of the flower on the dot of hot glue so that when the flower is unfolded it is centered on the circle For each of the other flower shapes, place another dot of hot glue in the center of the flower, fold the flower shape in half, and place it on the hot glue. Rotate the base slightly in between gluing each flower shape so that the shapes aren't aligned. Stop before you use the last two of your flower shapes. For the final two flower shapes, fold them in half, then push the two outer edges inward so that they touch. Do this with both of the last flower shapes. Then glue them to the center of the flower. If your fabric rose is lying a little flat, you can use your fingers to ruffle and wrinkle the petals. That way it looks more flower-like.


Gather your materials. Cut the fabric in half. Hem the long edges. Create rounded corners. Sew the rounded edges together. Wear the sling.

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You will need fabric that is at least 23.5 inches (59.7 cm) wide. (Many fabrics are sold in widths of 45 inches.) To calculate the length, measure from your shoulder to your opposite hip. Then double that number and add six. In addition to fabric, you will also need matching thread and a sewing machine. If you are starting with fabric that is 45 inches (114.3 cm) wide, cut it in half length-wise. Each of the resulting pieces will make one pouch sling. Hem both of the long sides of your fabric by folding the edge of the fabric down 1/4-inch (6.35 mm) onto the wrong side and securing with a row of stitches. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, and then again widthwise so that the four corners are lined up. Then cut a small arc from the bottom (folded) area to the top edge, as if making half of a smile. Cutting all four of your corners at once will keep your arcs symmetrical. Now sew the four corners that you just rounded together using your sewing machine. This seam will be weight bearing, so it's best to use a strong seam, like a French seam. For a French seam, start with the wrong sides of the fabric facing each other and sew a seam just above the raw edges. Then turn the fabric inside out and sew another seam just above the raw edges. Try to make this seam as narrow as possible. This should encase your first seam. Lastly, turn the sling right side out again and stitch the seam flat along the inside. To wear your sling, fold it in half lengthwise with the hemmed edges together, putting your head and one arm through the center. It should be draped over one shoulder like a sash with the edges up and the seam in the front. This makes a pocket in which to place the baby.


Gather your materials. Cut the pieces to the desired lengths. Glue the two sections together. Miter the ends. Make a simple jig. Drill and insert dowels. Sand and add finishing touches. Cut glass or plastic.

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We're going to make a frame for our theoretical 8x10 photo with our 1.5" width mat. You'll need:  1x2 lumber in a wood type of your choice 1/4" square dowels in a matching or pleasantly contrasting wood of your choice 5 mm diameter dowel rods A miter box, saw, square measure, and measuring tape Glue and rubber bands Materials to make a basic jig, such as plywood. Optional materials like paint or stain For now just think about the 1x2s. The inside measurement of that portion of the frame will be the same size as your mat, with the outside measurement adding the additional length for the miter. Cut the 1x2s to the size you'll need for the outside measurement of the frame. Once you have your 1x2s cut, cut your square dowels to the same measurement. In our example, since the 1x2s are actually 1.5" x .75", we need to add 1.5" to each end to get the outer edge measurement. So the short side pieces will then be 14" and the long side pieces will be 16". Glue the square dowel to the 1x2, so that the faces are flush. Using a box miter (or miter saw, if you have one), cut the ends of the four pieces so that they are at a 45 degree angle. The short end of each miter should be on the side with the square dowel. Sand any rough edges.  The measurement on one side of the short pieces should now be 14", with the other at 11". The measurement on one side of the long pieces should now be 16", with the other side at 13". Set out a plywood sheet. Measure out the outline of the 14x16" frame, as well as the inside 11x13" shape. Nail small pieces of scrap wood at the center on both the inside and outside lines, so that the pieces of the frame can sit snugly between them with the mitered corners still accessible. Glue the mitered edges and then insert the pieces into the jig (careful not to glue them to the surface). Using a drill, make pilot holes and then drill a 5 mm hole for your dowels at each of the four corners. This should pass diagonally through the corner, passing at the halfway point along the mitered edge. Then, cover...


Gather your materials. Dig a hole. Insert your container. Add plant material. Cover your hole. Add a weight. Seal the edges. Wait for moisture to collect. Drink!

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You will need a container for the distilled water, a plastic sheet and a shovel. You may also want some plastic tubing. Dig a hole about as large as the plastic sheet and deep enough so that when you weigh the center of the sheet down, there will be several inches between the bottom of the sheet and the bottom of the hole. This is the sort of still that would be good if you actually have to distill your drinking water. If you get stranded on a desert island, this is your best option. Set your drinking container in the center of the hole and partially bury it to keep it from falling over. Insert one end of the plastic tubing into the container and lay the other end well outside the hole. The goal is to keep the tubing clean and secure so it doesn't fall back into the hole. Line the hole with cactus, leaves or other living plant parts if they are available. Placing plants in the hole isn't necessary, but will help your still produce more water. Cover the hole with a plastic sheet use rocks to weigh down the corners. Carefully place a rock in the center of the plastic sheet so it slopes downward at an angle of about 45 degrees; the lowest point should be directly over the container in the hole, but not touching it. Cover all edges of the plastic sheet with dirt or sand to keep water vapor from escaping. Take care not to cover the plastic tubing. Wait two or three hours for moisture to collect on the plastic sheet and run down the sides into the container. Drink the water through the plastic tubing. You can disassemble the still and drink directly from the container, but you will have to build the still again when you're through; in the meantime, any water vapor on the sheet will evaporate.


Gather your materials. Draw a perfect square on the cardboard. Cut the square out. Draw an equilateral triangle on the square of cardboard, and cut it out. Mark the center of each side of the triangle, and draw lines from these points. Draw the edges of the boomerang arms. Cut the boomerang shape out. Round the edges of the boomerang. Test your boomerang.

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To make a cardboard boomerang you will need a few materials ready before you begin. Most of the materials are things you have at home already.  Cardboard. This can be cardboard from a box, a cereal box, or any other cardboard you have and want to recycle.  Ruler or Protractor Pen or Pencil A marker Scissors A small water bottle Use the ruler to measure a medium sized square, about a 10 x 10 inch square. Make sure all four sides of your square are the exact same length and have straight lines. Use the scissors to cut out the square of cardboard. Make sure you follow the lines perfectly when cutting out your square so that you end up with a perfect square. It’s important that the arms of your boomerang are all the exact same size, so making it from an equilateral triangle will help. Make sure you measure accurately before cutting.  Measure one side of the square and make a mark at the halfway mark. Make another halfway mark on the opposite side as well, and use the ruler to draw a straight line between them. This should make a line running down the center of the square. Position the square in front of you so that the line is running up to down. Use your ruler to draw a line from the top of the first line to the bottom right corner of the square. This line should be the same size as the sides of your square. Repeat this to make a line from the top of the first line to the bottom left corner as well. You should now have a triangle shape on your square. Use scissors to cut the triangle out. One side of the triangle should already have a line drawn from the center up to the top corner, but you need to mark the center of the other two sides. Use your ruler to measure the sides and make a mark at the halfway point.  Use the ruler to draw straight lines from the marks you made to the corner opposite the side the mark is on. You should now have a line going directly through the center or each corner of the triangle. Use the ruler to make marks two inches from either side of the lines going through the corners. Make a...


Gather your materials. Draw squares using the Fibonacci sequence. Arrange the squares. Turn the compass. Adjust the compass. Ink your spiral. Erase your guide lines. Done!

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You'll need to draw a system of squares that will end up "inscribing" the spiral, acting as guide lines for your drawing. Gather your materials, making sure that you have everything––the list of what is needed is found in the Things You'll Need section below all the steps. This works by adding the two previous numbers: You get the next one starting from 0 and 1; so, it goes 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, 55, etc. The length of one side of each square should equal a number in the sequence (the 0 is not needed for drawing any of the square), but the beginning point can be called (0,0), if we set it up that way. You will have a 1X1 square (use any unit of measurement you want, at any size, just be consistent) with a second 1X1 drawn next to it on the left side of the first, then down to put 2X2, and right for 3X3, then up for 5X5, and then left to fit 8X8. Below all that, put 13X13 and so on, to as large a square as your paper can fit. Draw each of these squares in a counter-clockwise pattern. It will finally form a spiral as you draw a curve through the squares (as instructed later). Put your compass, pivot point and pencil, as shown in the picture, with its length set at one unit (side of the first square) long. Turn it 90 degrees counter-clockwise. Adjust the compass so it is now two units long.  Again, turn it 90 degrees counter-clockwise. Then 3, then 5, next 8 and continue this process until the squares each have the curving spiral through them. Ink your drawing with pen when you are ready, carefully tracing along the penciled curve.  If you're shooting for exceptional accuracy, you can use a French curve to help you. With the spiral traced in pen, use your eraser to rub out the squares made in pencil. Congratulations, you've just made the golden spiral!


Gather your materials. Drip one drop of liquid at a time onto the penny. Repeat the experiment with a different liquid. Compare the number of drops it takes to fill the penny for each liquid.

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For this experiment you will need an eye dropper, a dry penny, water, a small bowl, dish soap, oil, and a towel. Most of these items can be found around the house or purchased at the grocery store. You don’t have to use dish soap and oil, but you will want different liquids to compare their surface tensions.  Make sure the penny is completely clean and dry before beginning the experiment. If there are other liquids on the penny, the experiment will not be accurate. This experiment does not allow you to calculate surface tension, but just determine surface tensions of different liquids relative to each other. Place the penny on top of a towel or a surface that you don’t mind getting wet. Fill the eyedropper with the first liquid. Slowly, drip the liquid onto the penny, taking care to only drop one drop at a time. Count the number of drops it takes to fill the penny until the liquid runs over. Write down how many drops it takes for the liquid to flow over the side of the penny. Clean and dry the penny in between each test of liquid. Dry the surface that you placed the penny on before repeating the experiment. Use multiple eyedroppers or clean it in between uses. Try mixing a little bit of dish soap to the water and dropping again to see if the surface tension changes. Try repeating the experiment with the same liquid multiple times to see if you are getting an accurate count. Average the trials together by adding them together and dividing by the number of trials performed. Write down which substances required the most drops and which required the fewest to fill the penny.  Substances with a higher surface tension will have more drops on the penny than substances with a lower surface tension. The dish soap lowers the surface tension of the water, using fewer drops to fill the penny.


Gather your materials. Ensure that your safety equipment is of a high quality. Use an induction furnace. Obtain necessary fuel.

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DIY foundries consist of the furnace body, insulation/lining, crucible, propane tank and burner, as well as a lid. You will also need protective gloves, a suitable face guard, and a set of lifting tongs for moving the crucible. Keep in mind that while is is possible to construct a safe furnace, it is exceedingly important that you properly insulate your foundry to prevent any injury to yourself or others.  DIY furnace bodies are typically cylindrical and made of metal. Depending on the size of your furnace — which you can determine by the volume of metal you would like to melt — you can use metal cans from bulk food purchases, or a stainless steel crockpot. Kaowool (a ceramic fiber with high-heat resistance) is an ideal lining for metal melting furnaces.  Crucibles are the container in which you will place the metal scraps to be melted. The liquified copper will pool here; it is necessary that you use a material that will not melt or crack at the temperatures needed to melt your copper. Clay graphite is a common choice.  For the propane burner, you do not want something used for cooking, but instead a torch-like fixture to position through the foundry exterior and by the crucible. These are widely available online. The lid will be fashioned out of a smaller top portion of whatever you choose to be your foundry body. Foundry lids have a small hole in the top that allows for ventilation and the prevention of dangerous pressure build-up. High temperature gloves used in the molten metal industry, as well as a face shield of durable material are recommended. It is useful to know that your flame itself will not be reaching the necessary temperatures; thanks to proper insulation, the crucible center will be super-heated to a point where copper will melt. Because copper has a high melting temperature of 1083°C (1981°F), induction furnaces are typically needed. Although highly expensive industrial machines, induction furnaces will guarantee for a level of safety that is not present in self-constructed foundries.  The...


Gather your materials. Fill your bottom pot part-way with water. Place your upper pot or bowl on top of the bottom pot. Place the entire assembly on the stove.

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You will need both the bottom pot and the upper pot; you will not need the lid that came with your double boiler, unless the recipe or project specifically calls for one. If you do not have a double boiler, you can make your own using a large pot and a shallow, heat-resistant bowl that can fit over it.  The bowl in your homemade double boiler should fit snugly onto the large pot. There should be no gaps or spaces between the bowl and the rim of the pot. The bottom of the bowl should not touch bottom of the large pot. If you are making your own double boiler, consider using a glass or ceramic bowl instead of a metal one. Glass and ceramic bowls don't transfer heat as much as metal ones do, which means that they heat slower and more evenly, thus giving you more control. You will need about two inches (5.08 centimeters) of water. Double boilers heat items with steam, not hot water, so the bottom of your upper pot (or bowl if you are using a homemade double boiler) should not be touching any water that you add into the large pot. You may need to add more water or pour some water out in order to get the right amount. Consider having some extra water nearby. The water level in your double boiler will decrease the longer you cook. You can prevent the water level from going too low and scorching your bottom pot by having a cup of water nearby. When the water level gets too low, refill the bottom pot with more water. The upper container should fit snugly over the bottom one. If bottom is touching the water, you have added too much water and will need to pour some out. The amount of water will vary depending on what double boiler you are using, but you should have about two inches of water. This will ensure that you have enough water (and thus steam) to last through most of your recipe or project. The water will make it heavy, so make sure that you are using both hands to carry it.


Gather your materials. Find an ant colony. Enter the ant colony and collect worker ants. Watch out for stinging ants.

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You won't need much to collect ants, but you'll want to make sure you have the necessary tools on hand before you begin. You'll need a small hand shovel to dig and scoop up ants, as well as a container to store them in. A clear, plastic food storage container or glass jar will work well for storing and transporting the ants that you collect back to your home. If you want to collect ants, you'll need to find a thriving ant colony. Start by searching the yard immediately surrounding your home. If you can't find an ant colony there, you may need to venture out into a more wooded area or try again during a more active period.  Spring and summer are the best times to seek out and collect ants. You won't find very many (if any) ants in the winter. Ants can live in a variety of different habitats, depending on the type of ant. Good places to look for ants include in soil, in little mounds close to the ground, underneath rocks and other large objects in the dirt, or inside old wood. Once you've found an ant colony, you'll need to enter it using your hand shovel. When you're finished, try to restore the environment back to the way it was when you found it. Return all rocks and other objects to their original location and position so that other organisms can still use these habitats.  If you're entering a colony built in the soil or in a dirt mound, simply dig about six inches (15 centimeters) into the entrance of the colony. If you're entering a colony hidden under some object (like a rock), choose a large object approximately the size of a loaf of bread. Flip the object over to find the scurrying ants underneath. Scoop up ants with a hand shovel and put them into your glass or clear plastic container. Make sure the lid is on tight, as ants can climb very quickly and escape. Some ants are capable of stinging you and may do so if you enter the colony or attempt to collect them. Not all ants sting, but you should be able to clearly see a stinger protruding from the rear abdominal area on ants that will sting. Exercise...


Gather your materials. Flatten the crops. Consider the direction in which the crops will be flattened. Get creative with flattening the crops. Give your crop circle "supernatural" touches.

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First, gather the materials to measure your crop circles. You can either use a surveyor’s reel or a 100-ft piece of rope. Next, you need a wooden rod to help you measure accurately. Lastly, buy your “crop flattener,” or a garden roller, at your local garden tools department store. You can also create your own “crop flattener.” First, drill holes in each end of a light plank. The plank should measure 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 2 meters) long and 3 or 4 feet (1 to 1.2 meters) wide. Tie both ends of a long piece of rope through the holes in the plank. You should be able to comfortably drag the plank behind you with the widest side of the plank flat on the ground. Using your pattern as a guide, drag your crop flattener across the crops in the direction of your choosing. Have a partner come behind you and step on the plank as you drag it to help smooth everything out. This will bend the crops into the regular pattern associated with crop circles. If you want to make a small but perfect circle, anchor one end of the plank onto the ground and turn the free end in a circle around it. This can be useful for incorporating smaller circles into your design. Different angles of a flattened stalk will reflect light differently. If you’re a beginner, it might be best to flatten all the stalks in the same direction – clockwise or counterclockwise. However, if you’re more ambitious, consider alternating the direction in which the crops are flattened to create an interesting lighting effect. Flatten the crops with your feet for smaller lines or complicated designs. Step on the stems of the crop in a side-stepping motion, using the wide part of your foot to sweep the stalks in one direction. Similarly, you can create different sized crop flatteners out of different sizes of boards to create thicker or thinner lines in the crops. Just make sure the boards you use are strong enough to withstand being stepped on. Add a hoax-like dimension to your work by making it appear as if aliens authored the crop circles. Create swirled nests in the...


Gather your materials. Fold the shirt in half. Mark where you want the new armholes to end. Cut the sleeves off. Tug the armholes gently to curl the fabric.

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Making a cutoff shirt is easy, and no sewing is required. To make a cutoff t-shirt, you will need:  T-shirt Scissors Chalk or pen It is important for your cutoff t-shirt’s sleeves to be even, or you may end up looking lopsided. To ensure that your armholes are even when you cut them, start by folding the shirt in half lengthwise. Make sure that the sleeves are matching up. Next, locate the place on the shirt where you want the new armholes to begin and end, then mark the shirt in these places. You can also mark how far in you want the sleeves to go. However, keep in mind that the deep into the shirt you cut, the more of your chest will be visible. Try marking just above, beside, and below the current sleeve to guide you as you cut the sleeves off. Remember that you can always make the armholes larger if desired, but you cannot make them smaller after you cut them. Once you are happy with the placement of your sleeves, you can cut off the old sleeves. Cut along the points you marked in a slightly curving line. Try to avoid making any jagged edges as you cut. If you do end up with a jagged edge, you can always cut in a little more. After you have cut off the sleeves, give the new armholes a gentle tug. This will curl the t-shirt fabric around the new edges you have created and soften the look a little bit. After this, your cutoff t-shirt is ready to wear.


Gather your materials. Heat the ibrik on the stove.

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A regular old pot and drip grind coffee will not do for this method.  You'll need an ibrik (variously known as a cezve, briki, mbiki or toorka, among other names), a small metal pot (traditionally made of brass) which is thinner at the neck than base and usually has a long handle. You'll also need water and sugar (or, though less traditional, a sugar substitute), of course. This method requires Turkish grind coffee, which is as fine a grind as you are likely to encounter.  Specialty shops, coffee roasters, Middle Eastern shops, and some mainstream retailers may have this grind. Also look at the grinding machine found in your grocery store's coffee aisle -- many of them actually have a Turkish grind setting.  If grinding your own beans, make the grind as fine as you can. Some people recommend using a low setting, but medium to high heat will also work. You'll just have to pay even closer attention to prevent a messy boil-over. The coffee will foam. Foaming is not the same as boiling.  Do not let it boil, and really do not let it boil over unless you love vigorously scrubbing a scorched stovetop.


Gather your materials. Lay out the posts. Fence it in. Add the roof.

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For your stable, you’ll be needing Wood, and quite a lot of it! In total, you’ll need 23 Fences, 21 Wood Blocks, 30 Wood Planks, 29 Wood Slabs, 12 Cobblestone, Stone or Stone Bricks, and 8 torches. You can use any combination of wood types for your materials. You want to create a really vibrant-looking stable! First, create a stack 3 blocks high with your Wood blocks. Now, with three spaces away from it, create another stack of the same height. Make two more until it becomes a box formation around 5x5 blocks wide. From the top, it should look something like this: w = wood X = empty w X X X w X  X  X  X X  X  X  X X  X  X  X w X X X w Now, on three of the four sides, place wood planks across the space between the pillar, then place slabs over the planks. This is to prevent the horse from climbing up on your fence. Now place fences on top of the planks, and then on the topmost pillar, place more planks to completely seal the room.  On the opening, place fence posts up to the very top in front of the posts by the opening, then place a pair of two-block-high stack of fences in the entrance gap, and close it off by connecting another fence between them. p = planks f = fence s = slab First layer w p p p w p X X X p p X X X p p X X X p w f  X  f w f  f  X  f  f Second layer w s s s w s X X X s s X X X s s X X X s w f  X  f w f  f  X  f  f Third layer w X X X w f  X X X  f f  X X X  f f  X X X  f w X X X w f  X X X  f Fourth layer w p p p w p X X X p p X X X p p X X X p w X X X w f  f  X  f  f With this design, you wouldn’t need to build fence gates to keep your horse inside, because it tricks the horse into thinking the space is too narrow to go through while actually having ample space to go through! From the fence pillar to the back of your stable, place your slabs surrounding the walls, then fill in the remaining space in the middle with Wood Blocks.  Now, between the opening’s wood posts, place two slabs below the wood block roof to create a sort of extrusion on the opening. Roof layer s s s s s s s s s s s s s...


Gather your materials. Lay your canvas out vertically. Paint your canvas. Print out your template. Paint inside of your design. Add texture and life to your painting. Create loops at the top and bottom of your canvas. Slide your dowel rods through the loops.

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The most important item to buy is either canvas or burlap measuring 2 1/2 feet by 4 1/2 feet.  This can be found at most craft stores.  You can choose any color of canvas or burlap you like, but remember that you will be painting designs on top of the material.  Therefore, you should go for lighter colors, such as white or off-white. You will also need to pick up the following items: painter's tape, fabric paint, a paper plate, a small paintbrush, a template with your design of choice, sandpaper, an iron, fabric glue, two 7/8-inch dowels, two eye hooks, and twine to hang your tapestry. Measure, with a ruler, 3 inches from the bottom of the canvas and draw a straight horizontal line.  Take a piece of masking tape that is 2 1/2 feet long and place it along this line (top edge of masking tape goes on the line).  Measure 1 inch above the masking tape, and draw another straight, horizontal line. Place a 2 1/2 foot long piece of masking tape along this line (bottom edge of masking tape goes along line). Place a small amount of fabric paint on a paper plate.  Dip the paintbrush into the paint, and paint between the two pieces of tape.  While you can slightly paint over the tape, make sure not to get loose paint on the rest of the canvas.  It is best to dab rather than to brush in long strokes.  Wipe your paintbrush off with a paper towel, and then run it under some hot water.  This will get the excess paint off.  Wait for the paint to dry before you safely remove the tape strips. You can add more paint stripes above the one you made.  Simply repeat the previous instructions, adjusting the height of each of your stripes (instead of a 1 inch stripe, you may want to paint a 1/2 inch stripe above the one you already painted). Leave some space in between each stripe so that you can clearly see each one.  Make sure not to make too many stripes, as you need some space to paint on your design. You will want to stick to something basic that can be identified simply by the outline of the object or thing.  Many simple designs...


Gather your materials. Layer the inside of your pallet with heavy plastic. Line the inside of your pallet with landscape material. Seal off the back of your pallet.

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You'll need some tools and supplies to construct your living wall on your own. In theory, most box shaped frames can be converted into a living wall, however, for the purposes of providing a guided example, a living wall built from a wooden pallet is used. To create your pallet wall you'll need:  A wooden pallet Landscape material Plastic sheeting Pair of scissors Staple gun (and staples) Wooden pallets can be expensive, though these can often be found in the dumpsters of local businesses. You might even inquire with your local hardware as to whether there are extra pallets available for you to use for a personal project. Use your scissors to cut strips of plastic that fit the contours of the inside of your pallet. Lay these along the wood on the inside of your pallet and use your staple gun to firmly attach each strip in place. Be sure that every spot soil will be held is thoroughly protected with heavy plastic sheeting.  In the event you don't have a staple gun, you can use tacks and a hammer instead. Make sure you use sturdy tacks that will stay firmly in place; a rupture in your plastic can lead to leakage that could damage your wall or dirty your floor. To ensure the health of your plants, you'll have to water your living wall regularly, which can cause the wood of your pallet to become compromised by rot or decay. Your plastic sheeting will prevent this from happening to the wood of your pallet. This often black textile will hold water and provide a moist environment for your plants to grow in. This will prevent the water from puddling in the crevices of the plastic, making it more available to your plants. Using your scissors, cut your landscape material in to strips same as you did for your heavy plastic, then attach the material in place with your staple gun or a hammer and tacks. The landscape material lining the inside of your plastic will help hold in moisture when you water your living wall. This will provide a healthy environment for the roots of your plants. Now that the shelves of your living...


Gather your materials. Make the saline solution. Consider adding baking soda (optional). Fill your spray bottle and store the remaining solution.

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Making a saline solution is simple because all you need is salt and water! Sea salt or table salt are both acceptable for a saline solution, but use a non-iodized salt (pickling or kosher) if you have an iodine allergy. To administer the solution nasally, you'll also need a small spray bottle. One that holds one to two ounces is ideal. Infants and small children aren't able to blow their noses effectively. Get a soft, rubber-bulb syringe to remove nasal secretions gently and efficiently. There's more to making saline that just mixing salt and water. For the salt to effectively dissolve into the water, you must raise the water temperature. Boiling the water will also kill off any potentially dangerous microbes living in the tap water. Boil 8 oz. of water, then allow it to cool until just "very warm." Add ¼ teaspoon of salt and mix well until the salt dissolves. The ¼ teaspoon of salt will make a saline solution that matches the amount of salt in your body (isotonic).  You may want to try a salt spray that has a greater concentration of salt than your body (hypertonic). This is useful for significant congestion with a lot of discharge. If you're having trouble breathing or clearing your nose, consider a hypertonic solution.  To do this, simply add 1/2 teaspoon of salt instead of 1/4 teaspoon. Don’t use a hypertonic solution for infants or small children younger than five years old. A half teaspoon of baking soda will adjust the pH of the solution. This makes it less likely to sting a sore nose, especially with hypertonic solutions with a higher salt content. Add it while the water is still warm, and mix well to dissolve the baking soda. You can add the salt and the baking soda all at once, but adding the salt first usually results in easier mixing. Once the solution has cooled to room temperature, it's ready to use. Fill the one to two ounce spray bottle with the solution, then pour the rest into a covered container and refrigerate it. After two days, throw out any unused solution and make a new batch if necessary.


Gather your materials. Mark where the fringe will start.

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To create your fringe shirt you will need a few materials:  A t-shirt (men’s t-shirt provide a looser fit, women’s t-shirts provide a tighter fit)  Sharp scissors (fabric scissors work best) Ruler Chalk or fabric marker Decorative beads (optional) Put on the t-shirt. Stand in front of a mirror and use the chalk to make a provisional line across the front of your shirt where you want the fringe to start. Keep in mind that depending on how high you cut the fringe, you may be exposing your stomach. Some people like this look, while others prefer for the fringe to start around the waist of their pants or shorts.


Gather your materials. Measure your waist and cut elastic.

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For this type of thong, you will need a piece of fabric about 10 inches by 12 inches that is somewhat stretchy. You'll also need some elastic for the waistband and leg holes in your thong. Pick a color you want to match your fabric because this elastic will show.  If you find that elastic is uncomfortable, you can always try substituting it for some stretchy lace, although it may not attach quite as well to your underwear. Elastic for the waistband needs to be about one inch shorter than your hips or waist measurement, depending on where you plan to wear your thong. Use a measuring tape to measure waist or hips, and then cut a piece of elastic one inch less than that measurement. Depending on where you want your thong to sit will determine if you use your hip or waist measurements, and will also determine the length of your back elastic. If you want a higher thong, you'll need more back elastic and less elastic for your waistband, but if you want your thong to sit on your hips you'll likely need more elastic for the waistband and less for the back elastic.


Gather your materials. Mix the ingredients together. Cook the mixture. Make more than one color. Store the dough.

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You will need a clean workspace, a medium-sized saucepan, a large spoon or spatula, one cup of flour, half a cup of salt, one envelope of unsweetened Kool-Aid drink mix (any flavor), two teaspoons of cream of tartar, a cup of water, and a tablespoon of oil.  If you want more vivid colors, use two packets of Kool-Aid instead of one. Avoid using plastic or wooden spoons. The Kool-Aid may permanently stain the material. First, mix the flour, salt, Kool-Aid, and cream of tartar together with a whisk until they’re completely combined. Next, stir in the oil with a spoon. Once the oil is completely absorbed into the dough, carefully pour in the water. The dough should be wet enough to pull away from the sides of the pan when stirred but dry enough to hold its shape.  Add the water very slowly. You can always add more, but you can’t take water out! Make sure to scrape the corners of the pot to completely saturate the dry mixture. Place your saucepan on medium heat. Carefully stir the mixture as it cooks; if it sticks to the bottom of the pan, it may burn. Let the mixture cook for about five minutes. If it starts to look too dry, add a splash of water to the mixture. After about five minutes the mixture will start to roll into a large ball when you stir it. Transfer the ball of dough to a plate to cool.  If you want the mixture to cool quickly press it into a pancake shape with your spoon. This will allow the excess heat to escape the dough. If you feel like your dough is too sticky, sprinkle some flour over the dough and mix it in. If you want to make multiple colors, cook the dough in batches. You can either make a full batch of each color or split one batch into multiple colors. For example, you could make two colors with the same batch of dough by halving the ingredients before cooking them. First, completely cook the first half-batch. While it’s cooling on a plate cook the second half-batch. Wash the saucepan between batches to prevent color contamination. If the dough is exposed to air it will dry out and...


Gather your materials. Mix together some ingredients. Add the powdered tempera paint. Add white vinegar.

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You will need dirt, water, baking soda, white vinegar, and powdered tempera paint. You will also need a bowl to mix the materials. You might want to also gather additional bowls and a spoon to transfer the final product into multiple containers.  Start by using equal parts of dirt and water. Use whatever color tempera paint that you desire. You can even use multiple colors. In a large bowl combine dirt, water, and baking soda. Start by using equal parts dirt and water. Add more water or dirt to make the mud the consistency that you desire. Add two tablespoons of baking soda to the mud. Mix the ingredients with your hand or a large spoon. Leave enough room in the bowl to mix the ingredients. If you want to distribute the mud into multiple containers, do it before adding the paint. Then, toss some paint on top of the mud. Watch as the mud starts to change colors. Consider using muffin tins or pie pans to make different shapes with your magic mud. Start with a cup of vinegar, and pour some of it onto the top of the magic mud. Watch as the vinegar reacts with the baking soda. You can continue to add more vinegar to your mud until it no longer reacts with the baking soda. Notice how different colored mud creates different colored bubbles.


Gather your materials. Mount the flag brackets. Insert the dowel rods. Hang the fabric.

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You'll need 1 or 3 adjustable-angle metal flag brackets (the stronger the better), a dowel rod to fit the flag bracket, and long fabric. You can have one at the center for a really regal look, or you can use three to get more of an expedition tent look. Mount the first at the center of the bed and the other two (if you want them) directly above the sides of the bed. These must be installed in your wall studs or they will not be strong enough. Put the dowel rods into the pole holder. You should be able to put it all the way in (it should not be too tight). If it is loose, you can make a better fit using wood shims or cardboard pieces. Center the fabric on the center pole and drape the ends over the sides of the bed or the hole poles, depending on the style you went with.


Gather your materials. Open a window or work outside. Be careful when working with chemicals.

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Making mood nail polish is a simple process, but you do need some special materials to do it. A few of the materials for mood nail polish are available in stores, but you will need to special order the rest online. You will need:  Stainless steel mixing balls (you will need to order this online) White base (order online) Syringe (no needle, just the syringe part for measuring) Empty nail polish bottles Thermal dust pigments (order online) A teaspoon Clear polish A small funnel It is important to make sure that you are working in a well ventilated area when you mix the nail polish. Make sure that you mix the polish in a room that is well-ventilated, such as a garage with the door open or in a room with lots of windows.  Try opening a window and turning on a fan to ventilate a room. Avoid working in small enclosed places, such as in a bathroom with no window. When working with chemicals, it is also important to work safely. To avoid spilling the white base or pigments on your furniture and carpets, place some newspaper or paper towels down before you start working.  You may also want to wear an old t-shirt to avoid staining your clothes. Wear gloves as well to avoid getting the pigments or polish base on your hands.


Gather your materials. Outline the viewing port. Use scissors to cut the oval out of the box. Cut a rectangle for the viewing slit. Tape two business cards parallel to each other over the rectangle cutout. Tape the disk to the inner side of the box opposite the viewing slit. Seal the sides of the box using aluminum foil and glue. Insert the paper tube into the oval. Tape the tube in place. Check to see if the spectrum works. Use aluminum foil and glue to seal up the edges.

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First, you will need to make sure you have all the materials to make a spectrum:  A cardboard box. It needs to be big enough to tape a CD or DVD on the inner edge. Small shipping boxes, cereal boxes, or shoe boxes will work. A DVD or CD. The DVD or CD will get taped down, so pick one that you don’t mind losing. 2 business cards (or a 3x5 cards). Make sure the card is thicker than standard paper. Some people substitute this for two single edged razor blades, but business cards are less dangerous to handle.  A cardboard tube. A toilet paper, paper towel, or gift wrap tube will work. Aluminum tape or aluminum foil and glue. Scissors. Pen or marker Ruler Cellophane tape For now, leave the top of the box open as you make the spectrum. This port needs to be drawn on the outside of the box. First, set the CD or DVD on one side of the box, half of an inch away from the left edge. Use your pen or marker to trace the circle in the middle of the disc. Put the disk aside for now. Then, get your paper tube, and center it over the circle you traced. Trace the inner part of the paper tube.  Now, move the tube over half an inch, and trace the inner part of it again. These circles will tell you where to cut the box to make the viewing port. The two overlapping circles will look like an oval. Cardboard boxes can be hard to cut, so be careful with the scissors. You can also use a knife if the scissors are not working. The oval cutout will allow the paper tube to enter the box at an angle to make the viewing port. Turn the box so the oval you cut is on the right-hand side instead of facing you. Place the disk towards the left edge of this side of the box. Use your pen or marker to trace the circle in the middle of the disc. This circle will be your guide for cutting out the viewing slit, which will be about half inch wide and two inches high.  Cut a small rectangle out of the box at the height marked by the small circle you made with the disk. This slit will not be in a circular shape, but you want to use the height of the...


Gather your materials. Paint the glue around your nails. Let the glue dry. Paint your nails. Let your nails dry. Peel away the glue.

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Elmer’s glue works best, but any white “school” glue will do. Along with your glue, you’ll need a paintbrush and the nail polish of your choice. Also, you want a small paper plate or something else to pour your glue onto. Pour some glue onto your dish and dip your brush in it. Generously apply the glue around your nails, getting as close to the nail as possible. Paint the glue around the bottom, sides, and top of your nail. If you do happen to get it on your nails, simply use a paper towel to wipe it away before it dries. Go as wide as you deem necessary. If you’re typically a very messy painter, make a wide ring around your nail with glue. Examine your nails to make sure there isn’t any glue on your nails. If you’re sure there isn’t, give the glue 10-20 minutes to dry. When it has dried completely, you’ll see no more white around your nails because the glue turns clear when it dries. Be as messy as you wish around your nails. Don’t be afraid to get as close to the edge of your nails as possible; focus on painting your entire nail. The paint around your nails will land on the glue, which is exactly what you want. Don’t purposely make more of a mess than you normally would; you’ll just end up wasting nail polish. Give your nails sufficient time to dry. This takes anywhere from 2-15 minutes, depending on the polish that you chose. It is very important that you let your nails completely dry. Carefully begin peeling the glue off of your fingers. Do so slowly to be sure that you don’t pull off any polish from your nails along with the glue. Take notes on anywhere you could’ve been more careful with your glue so that you can focus on that area next time.


Gather your materials. Place the can on the back side of the leather. Cut out the circles, leaving 2 inches (5.1 cm) of space between the drawn line and your cut. Use the scissors to make small snips around the outside of both pieces of leather. Thread the rope through the holes. Place the leather pieces on either end of the can. Test out the drum.

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For this method, you will need a round tin container or can, a roll of faux leather, a roll of thin rope, a marker, and scissors. Using a marker, draw around the can. Then, move the can over and draw around the can again. These circles are going to be the top and bottom parts of the drum. This will give you extra leather to thread with rope. These snips will be used to thread the rope around the drum. Once you have thread the rope through the holes on the top piece and the bottom piece of leather, tie it off with a small knot and cut away the excess rope. Then, thread the rope from top to bottom using the threaded rope on the leather pieces, tightening as you go. The drum should not only look good, it should sound good too. If you want to make a more durable drum, use eyelet pliers to make holes in the leather to then thread the rope through, as this will make the drum stronger and likely last longer.


Gather your materials. Place the egg in the glass and submerge with vinegar. Cover and refrigerate the egg for 24 hours. Replace the vinegar in the cup after 24 hours. Leave the egg undisturbed for at least 24 more hours.

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For this experiment you will need a fresh, uncooked egg, a drinking glass, a dissolving solution such as white vinegar or a cola beverage, and 4-5 days of patience. The drinking glass needs to be large enough for the egg to touch the bottom without touching the sides of the glass.  You can also use a plastic cup or container to hold the egg, but clear containers allow you to observe the experiment over time. Use a fresh egg because an older egg will float in the liquid. Before you begin, examine your uncooked egg for cracks. Gently place the egg in the bottom of the glass taking care not to crack it. Pour enough vinegar (or cola) over the egg until it is completely submerged in the liquid. The chemical reaction between the acetic acid in the cola and the calcium carbonate in the eggshell causes the shell to dissolve. Cover the top of the container with foil or plastic wrap and place it on a shelf of the refrigerator where it will remain undisturbed. Keep it out of the way so it doesn't get knocked around. After the first day, you should see the frothy residue of the shell on the surface of the liquid. You will also see that parts of the shell still remain on the egg. The shell takes at least 2 days to fully dissolve and may take up to 3.  Gently pour out the vinegar taking care to keep the egg from falling out of the container. Carefully roll the egg back down to the bottom of the container and refill it with vinegar. Place the egg back in the refrigerator and leave it alone. After at least another 24 hours, remove the egg to check its progress. If there are no white spots or areas that look like shell left on the egg, the dissolving process is complete. Gently pour out the vinegar and catch the naked egg in your hand. See how it feels.


Gather your materials. Position the cat. Trim the perineal area. Locate the gland openings. Wipe away dried secretions. Pinch the anal glands gently. Wipe the area.

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You’ll need a pair of clean surgical or examination gloves, gauze pads, clean water, and, if your cat is hairy, a clipper. You’ll also want someone to help hold the cat still while you work. Have a partner or assistant hold the cat still, facing away from you. If your cat is hairy, you may need to trim the hair around the anus before you can proceed. Pull the cat’s tail gently upward to observe the anus. Look for the gland openings, which should be located just beneath and to the sides of the anus. If the anus and gland openings are crusted with dried secretions, rinse with water and then gently wipe away the softened crusts. In some cases, you may not be able to wipe away the softened crusts very easily. If this happens, try putting a warm compress in the anus for five or ten minutes to soften clogged openings. Using your gloved hand, pinch the two anal glands under the anus, using your forefinger and thumb. Gently push upwards, increasing your pressure until the glands pop and release excess secretions.  You will likely notice a distinct odor once the glands release their secretions. This is a sign that you have succeeded in your task. If there is blood or pus in the discharge, your cat’s anal glands are probably infected. You’ll need to contact a veterinarian as soon as possible. Using a damp piece of gauze, wipe the anus and the surrounding area clean.


Gather your materials. Pour water into the jar. Use a spoon to run the oil over the surface of the water. Place the ruler in the water.

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This experiment will illustrate that light travels in a straight line in the air but it will bend when it hits a certain surface, like water and oil. To conduct this experiment, you will need:  A large glass jar. Access to water. One cup of oil. A ruler. A spoon. Fill the jar halfway with water. Make sure the jar is large enough to fit the ruler. Spoon oil into the jar so it forms a solid layer of oil on the surface of the water. Position it so it is vertical in the water and you can see the numbers on the side of the ruler.  Note that the numbers appear stretched or magnified as the light rays bend in the oil and the water. Move the ruler from side to side to note the different appearances of the ruler numbers in the oil and in the water. This will show that light travels at different speeds in different mediums, such as air, oil, and water. It will travel in a straight line in the air, but it will bend when it changes speed due to contact with a certain medium, like oil or water.


Gather your materials. Preheat your oven to 250 degrees Fahrenheit. Knead the clay. Form the clay into a long tube or strip. Add design elements.

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Making polymer clay bracelets is an easy project, but it does require some special materials. Before you get started, you will need:  Polymer clay in the color(s) of your choice. A knife to cut the clay, such as a butter knife. A non-stick cutting board to work on. An empty can of soda. A cookie sheet. Parchment paper. Baking your polymer clay bracelets will set them and make the shapes permanent. To make sure that your oven will be hot and ready to go when you are finished molding your bracelets, take a moment to set your oven to 250 degrees Fahrenheit.  If your polymer clay suggests a different baking temperature, then preheat your oven to this temperature. If you prefer not to bake your bracelets, you can also look for air drying polymer clay. Before you begin forming your clay into bracelets, you will need to get it nice and soft. Knead the clay in your hands for a few minutes or until it feels pliable. To knead the clay, squeeze it in your hands and roll it around the cutting board. You can make a polymer clay bracelets that are round, like bangles, or you can make flat cuff bracelets. Decide on the types of shapes you want to create and then begin to form them with the clay.  To make a flat strip for a cuff bracelet, roll the clay into a ball and then begin to form a long tube. Then, flatten the tube. You can use a rolling pin to do this or just flatten it with your hands. You can also use a knife to cut along the edges and make your strip into a long rectangle. If you want to create a tube shaped bracelet for a bangle, then roll the clay into a ball and then shape it into a long tube. You can also make multiple small tubes and braid them to create a braided bangle. You can make bracelets that are simple strips or tubes of one color clay, or you can add other design elements to the strips or tubes you have created. You can embellish the strip by imprinting a design onto it, or by pressing different pieces of clay onto the strip.  To imprint the clay with a design, you can use a knife or toothpick to...


Gather your materials. Prepare the ceramic wax sealer dish on a table. Light the candle. Heat the wax. Pour a craft project or alcohol into the bottle. Tape on the filament tape. Dip the jar. Press your seal.

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To seal your jars with wax, you'll need a ceramic wax sealer dish, filament tape, scissors, a tea candle, a kitchen lighter,  and bottle sealing wax. You should be able to find a lot of these supplies at a local craft store or department store. However, if you can't find them in your area you should be able to order them online. This process is best for glass jars and bottles with slim necks. If you've purchased a wax sealer dish with a place for the candle beneath it, you can just place the sealer on the table. If not, you'll need to put it on a small rack so that a candle can go beneath it. Light a tea candle. Then, place it beneath the wax heating dish. Add granular wax in any color to the ceramic dish. As the wax melts, add more wax to the dish until the liquefied wax is about 2cm from the top of the dish. The wax will take about 20 minutes to melt. Blow out the candle when it's finished. Twist the cap on the bottle. Make sure the cap is on tight. If it isn’t used for eating, you can use a cork instead. Wrap the filament tape around the cork or the cap where it meets the jar until it overlaps on itself. Cut the filament tape. Bend the end that's sticking out and push it against the rest of the tape. The bent part will be what is pulled to undo the seal. Turn the jar upside down. Dip it straight down into the wax. Lift it straight up a moment later. Spin it as soon as you remove it from the wax to prevent unwanted dripping. This step is optional. Press your engraved wax seal into the top immediately after dipping. A monogrammed or symbolic wax seal is a great way to personalize your project. Allow it to sit and dry completely before transporting.


Gather your materials. Prepare your work area.

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For a basic PVC paint job, you'll need a large sheet of high-grit sandpaper, a small container of acetone, a clean washcloth, one or more cans of spray paint in your chosen color and the PVC you wish to paint. Make sure you have everything you need before you begin painting.  Practice proper workshop safety. Wear gloves, protective eyewear and a ventilated facemask to filter out dust and chemicals.  Choose a spray paint that's specially formulated for use on plastics, such as Krylon Fusion or Rust-Oleum Plastic. Lay down a large dropcloth or plastic tarp where you plan to do your painting. Keep all furniture and nearby appliances and electronics covered. Remember to work in a space that permits proper airflow, like a garage or workshop with the doors and windows open.  Work in a well-ventilated, open space. This will not only help the paint dry faster but keep you from being exposed to harmful acetone and paint fumes.  Spray paint tends to disperse when it's applied, so a dropcloth will be useful for protecting floors, countertops and other work surfaces. If you don't have access to a dropcloth, you could also use a few overlapping sheets of newspaper.


Gather your materials. Print off a pillow box template. Assemble the main part of the box.

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Unlike the previous boxes discussed, you will need to do some cutting and gluing. Don't let this intimidate you; pillow boxes are actually the easiest type of paper box to make. It's best to use cardstock or another type of thicker paper for these boxes. In addition to paper, you'll need scissors, a ruler, and glue. You will also need a scoring tool if you use cardstock. Find a template you like online. You can pick a minimalist pattern or an elaborate one.  You can even print out a blank template that you can decorate yourself. If you choose to decorate the paper, do so before you start folding. Decorating an already-folded box is both difficult and runs the risk of collapsing it. You can also print a blank template directly onto decorative paper. Fold the box in half again, decorative sides facing out. Tuck the flap under the far edge of the box. Line up the flap so that its crease is now flush with the far edge. Place your box in a heavy book while the glue dries to seal the edges.


Gather your materials. Remove any decorations or stickers from your window. Open the window and rub the bristle brush over the entire screen. Rub a piece of steel wool over the glass. Vacuum each section.

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You will need fine steel wool (#0000), a soft-bristled brush (such as a paintbrush), a vacuum with a soft brush head, rubber gloves (optional), safety glasses (optional), and a fan (optional).  You may wish to remove your contacts before getting started (or wear safety glasses), because all the steel dust may irritate or injure your eyes. You may wish to wear rubber gloves to protect your hands when using the steel wool. If not, be sure to wash your hands often as the grime will transfer to your hands and cause unsightly fingerprints on your clean windows. You want to begin with a clear, empty window. Don’t worry too much about getting off the adhesive residue from the stickers. Do a pre-wash with soapy water on very grimy windows to try and clean it slightly before moving on. This will knock the dust loose from the screen. You may want to position a fan so that it blows out of the window, otherwise the breeze from outside may blow all that dust and pollen back into your home. Do this systematically: start with the outside of the top pane, then the inside of the top pane, then the outside of the bottom pane, and so on. Continue until the entire window is clean. Steel wool removes the grime without scratching the glass. It will take a bit of elbow grease to remove the grime, particularly on the outside of the window. Have plenty of steel wool on hand, and take new pieces often. The steel wool tends to fall apart after a while, creating more dust while cleaning less effectively. The steel wool will flake and cause a lot of dust. Keep a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush-head handy and vacuum each section, including the windowsills, right after you finish.


Gather your materials. Remove your old nail polish. Do a sea salt soak. Cut and file your toenails. File rough spots on your feet with your foot file. Exfoliate. Moisturize your feet. Push back and cut your cuticles. Put in your toe separator and apply a base coat. Apply a layer of nail polish and allow it to dry. Add a top coat. Clean around the edges of your nails with a q-tip. Apply cuticle moisturizer.

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To start, you'll need to gather your pedicure materials. You can find most of the materials you need at a local drug store, supermarket, or beauty shop. In order to do a salon style pedicure, you'll need the following:   Acetone free nail polish remover Sea salt and a bowl big enough for both your feet Toenail clippers and a toenail file A pumice stone or similar device Foot moisturizer A cuticle pusher and cuticle clippers Toe separators Nail polish and top coat Q-tips Cotton balls Exfoliating gel To start, remove your nail polish. As with fingernails, avoid soaking toenails in polish. Dab a cotton ball in nail polish remover. Swab your toenails until they're free of all old polish. If you do not have leftover polish on your toenails, you can skip this step. You want to get the skin on your feet wet and loose in order to remove dead skin. A sea salt soak can help with this, and it can also prep your cuticles for care.  Fill your bowl with warm water and add a capful of dead sea salt. Submerge your feet in the basin for about 10 minutes. Take a toenail clipper and clip your toenails straight across. They should be short enough that they're about even with the tops of your toes. Then, take a nail file and to round out the edge of each nail to form a nice curved shape.  To file your nails, rub the edge of the file along your nails until they gradually wear down and form your desired shape. You should use an emery board nail to file down your toenails. Use your pumice stone, or a similar object, to rub down calloused spots on your feet. Rub the stone gently over troublesome areas, like the heels and your big toe. Rub until you remove rough, calloused skin and are left with smooth feet. You'll want to exfoliate your skin after removing rough spots. This will get any dead skin cells of your feet. Take your exfoliating gel and rub it over the areas you filed down. Rub gently, but with enough force to dislodge any flaky skin. When you're done, rinse off your feet with tap water and pat dry with a towel. Your feet...


Gather your materials. Sew the sheer purple fabric to the bottom of your purple strapless top. Obtain 2 seashells for the top. Prep your shells. Affix your shells to the purple top.

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To make Ariel’s top, you’ll need 4 components – 1 strapless purple bathing suit top (or bra or bandeau), 2 large seashells, and a swath of sheer purple fabric about the size and shape of a handkerchief. This is a very basic list and there are multiple ways to approach almost every element on it, so alternate options will be mentioned in each step. You can mix and match whatever works best for you to get your perfect Ariel costume. You’ll also need a sewing machine, purple thread, scissors, super glue, and light purple paint (lavender or lilac is the shade you want). You can use a machine to do this or sew it by hand, whichever you prefer. Since it’s such a minimal amount of sewing, you could easily do it by hand if you wanted to. The sheer fabric is square-shaped, and you want one of the flat sides to be the part that gets sewn into the purple strapless top. After it’s sewn on, the sheer fabric should hang at approximately your waist, covering most of your stomach. Try it on to make sure it looks the way you want it to before proceeding. If everything looks good, set the top aside for now. Ariel has 2 matching seashells on her top, one on each side. They are both approximately the size of your palm. You could do a perfectly fine Ariel costume without this element, but it’s a nice detail from the movie that will really set your costume apart. Skip ahead if you’re omitting the seashell element. To do the seashells, you can use actual seashells or a light purple felt fabric cut into seashell shapes.  If you want to use real seashells, check out Amazon (or another similar site). You can order them this way, and the price is relatively low. You want the shells to be about the same size, so when placing your order make sure you note that to the seller. If you live near an ocean, you can always get your shells by making a trip to the beach. If you’re using fabric for the shells, get purple felt (if possible, a shade lighter than the rest of the top is). If you’re using real shells, you’ll need to paint them to be a...


Gather your materials. Showcase your strongest ideas. Pick out a selection of pieces that show your development in each of your projects. Select your best pieces. Fit the pieces together into your chosen arrangement.

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Base your materials on the guidelines provided by your specific program. Color samples, fabric swatches, investigative pieces, sketches, photos: everything. You’re not going to put all of these items into your portfolio, but do start with the complete collection. Note that you usually can't include actual pieces that you've made, like a corset or a pair of a shoes. Instead, have professional-looking photos taken of those pieces and include the photographs in your portfolio as exhibits of your work. You may not have the resources to make what you're designing, or you may not have all of the skills yet--that's okay. The person looking at your portfolio wants to see how you think and create, so show them your pen and ink sketches or your charcoal drawings. You need to have a couple of different examples of your work represented as well as figure drawings that will demonstrate your ability to represent three dimensions on a two dimensional surface. Anything more than that is bonus material. These pieces may be a combination of things that have inspired you, early work that you did, or first steps in a developed idea that will reappear later. Try to pick out two or three pieces for each project that you've explored.  Do include casual side projects if you’re not making a targeted professional portfolio. These unofficial works show the diversity and range of your talents. Plus they offer some insight into your interests. If you have a large volume of work, try to select primarily from your most recent explorations. Include some of your older work to show your development, but emphasize where you're at right now, especially if you're making your portfolio for professional advancement. You definitely want to include your best work in your portfolio. Aim to have between one and two pieces of really high quality work per project. Go for pieces that represent your personal style and approach to design. Maybe you tend to focus on designing for a certain demographic (young, fashion forward women, androgynous men, active...


Gather your materials. Sketch out your shapes. Hold the shape to your head.

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You can use any fabric that you’d like for these Neko ears and tail. If you have a sewing machine, you can use it instead of needle and thread. However, the sewing is very light and done easily without one.  Fabric of your choice Scrap paper Marker Masking tape Sewing pins (straight and hooked) Glue Construction paper Scissors X-acto knife Thread Wire hanger On your scrap paper, use a marker to sketch out the shapes of your ears. To make your cat ears three dimensional, you should have a base shape that is an oval with a triangle cut out. It should almost look like a Pacman shape. Once cut out, tape the straight sides (the opening of Pacman’s mouth) together to create a cone-shaped ear. Experiment with different dimensions until you reach your desired ear size and shape. If you like the way the shape looks, transfer the pattern to your construction paper. Because the construction paper is stiffer, you will be able to use it countless times. Feel free to label the inside of your ears as L and R so that you keep them straight.


Gather your materials. Start with a petticoat, skirt, or tutu. Attach the feather boas to the bottom of the skirt. Create a simple mask that covers the eyes. Adhere the feathers to the mask. Put together the rest of the outfit. Combine all the elements.

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Before you start creating your costumes, you will want to gather all of your materials. Gather:  A skirt, petticoat, or tutu that fits you. Start with a solid cother like white or blue. Blue feathers or boas Hot glue gun Leggings and a tank top Craft mask or a homemade mask You will want to start with a solid color that will emphasize the blue of the feathers. You will want to pick the colors of a bluebird, such as blue or white. Avoid garish colors (green, orange, red). Use a hot glue gun to attach the boa, starting from bottom hem and working toward the waistband.  Apply a line of glue all the way around the bottom edge of the skirt and press the feather boa into the glue until the entire bottom edge is covered.  Continue to wrap the boa upward in a loose spiral to create a feathered look. Note that if the petticoat or tutu has a fringe at the bottom, you should glue the feather boa above this fringe. Do not overlap the fringe with the boa. If you want a more elaborately feathered skirt, repeat this procedure with a second feather boa in a slightly different shade of blue. Glue this feather boa around the bottom of the skirt, directly above the boa at the bottom. You can repeat this once more with a third feather boa in yet another shade of blue. Let the glue dry before you continue. Take a desired material (such as blue felt or poster board) and trace a mask around your eyes, forehead, and over the bridge of your nose. Cut the shape out.  Make sure you cut holes large enough so that you can sufficiently see out of. Thread a piece of ribbon or elastic on the sides of the mask. You will want to poke a hole using a pair of scissors or hole puncher to do this. Or, to skip the above steps, you can purchase a simple craft mask at a craft store that you can then decorate. Use hot glue. Do this when the mask is not on your face.   Start at the outside corner of one eye hole. Use a hot glue gun to glue the feathers so that they fan out diagonally from this corner. Move in toward the inner corner of the same eye...


Gather your materials. Start with unwashed hair. Put on an old t-shirt and gloves. Mix the bleach powder and developer. Section your hair. Apply the bleach from roots to ends. Allow your hair to process. Rinse your hair thoroughly. Shampoo your hair twice. Apply toner if desired.

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Bleaching your hair on your own can be risky. However, if you use the right products and do not leave the bleach on for too long, then you may be able to get platinum blonde hair at home with little damage. Before you get started, you will need:  High quality powder bleach. Lower volume developer, such as level 30. Toner, such as Wella T18.  Deep conditioning treatment. Latex or vinyl gloves. An old t-shirt or a smock to protect your clothes. A towel. A mixing bowl. A color application brush. A sink or shower to rinse your hair. Avoid shampooing your hair for two days before bleaching it. This will help to ensure that your hair and scalp have enough moisture to take the bleach. Otherwise, the chance of damage may be greater.  You can also do a deep conditioning treatment a couple of days before bleaching your hair for added protection. Before you start mixing up the bleach, put on something that you don’t mind getting bleach on. An old t-shirt is a good option, but you can also wear a smock over your clothes if you have one. Also, put on a pair of gloves to protect your hands from the bleach. Read the instructions that come with the bleach you have purchased. The packaging should indicate the bleach to developer ratio for your formula. Using a small whisk, whip the bleach and the developer together until they are creamy. Only fill your color bowl about three quarters full because the bleach will expand while you are applying it.  Some bleaches, such as Wella Multi Blonde, are flexible with the amount of developer you can use to achieve your desired results. In this case, mix equal parts bleach and developer until your formula has the cream-like consistency you desire. If the bleach you have purchased is more specific about the ratio of bleach to developer, such as Igora Vario Blond, which uses 1:2 parts bleach to developer, use a measuring cup from your kitchen to weigh your formula. Before applying any bleach to your hair, pull your hair into four sections. This will make it easier for you to manage the...


Gather your materials. Take your measurements with a fabric tape measure. Add extra room in your measurements. Decide upon the fabric.

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Here is a list of items you will need:  About one yard of fabric Sewing machine or sewing needles and thread Zipper Fabric scissors Clear protractor Ruler Fabric tape measure Paper Pencil The trick to a perfect pencil skirt is making sure you have all the right measurements to ensure a good fit. The four main measurements you need are your waist, hip, leg circumference and total length.  Your natural waist is the smallest part of your torso. Your hip measurement needs to be taken around the widest part of your butt. Measure around your legs where you want the pencil skirt to end. This can be either just above the knees or right below the knees for a traditional pencil skirt style. Measure the length starting from your natural waist and down to the point you want the skirt to end. While you want to have accurate measurements, you need to add room for the seam allowance and give yourself enough room to walk and sit. A pencil skirt will have three seams that each require 5/8" for the seam allowance. In addition, you will want to add about 1/2" to 3/4" ease at the waistline, and about 2" to 2 3/4" wearing ease at the hips. The fabric is completely up to you. You can choose cotton, wool, polyester, or any material you would like to create your skirt. Just be sure that you understand the washing instructions of each fabric so that you can properly care for your skirt. Inspect the fabric you want to use to see how much give the material has. This will give you a better idea of how it will wear and fit on your body.


Gather your materials. Tape off your tube. Mix and pour in your concrete. Tap and shake to remove bubbles. Add in the legs. Let the concrete set. Remove the tube. Add finishing touches.

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You'll need a 12" concrete forming tube (about 2' high, usually sold in 4' lengths), quick set concrete, four 2" diameter dowels or four 2x2s cut to the height that you want your stool, duct tape, sandpaper, and dye if you want your concrete a different color. Use the duct tape to completely cover one end of your 2' tube. Make sure it is very secure and that there aren't any holes. Spray the tape and sides with cooking spray to keep the concrete from sticking. Mix and pour enough concrete to fill the tube to the halfway point. The dye, if you've decided to use some, should be mixed in when mixing the concrete. Tap and shake the tube side to side to release bubbles trapped in the concrete. Add the legs into the tube and set them at the angle that you want. You may be able to rest them on the edge of the bucket or you might have to tie a string around them to keep them at the angle and placement you want. The ends at the bottom of the tube should not, however, be at the edge. They should be at least 1-2" inwards from the edge. Let the concrete set according to the manufacturer's instructions. This is usually at least 2 hrs for this thickness. Once the concrete has set, you can cut away the tube and remove any tape that might be left over. You'll probably want to angle or round out the ends of the legs. You can also make the seat itself wider by gluing on a larger garden stone as a seat. Painting and staining the legs is another great finishing touch.


Gather your materials. Tape the design to a piece of contact paper. Use a sharp craft knife to cut out the black parts of the design. Peel the sticky side off the contact paper. Place a piece of cardboard inside the t-shirt. Use a sponge brush to paint on the fabric paint. Peel the contact paper off of the t-shirt when the paint is dry.

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To stencil your design onto a t-shirt, you will need:  A black and white print out of your design. Its important to use a black and white printout of your design so it will be easy to trace. A piece of contact paper, or a transparency A craft knife, or exacto knife A plain t-shirt A piece of cardboard big enough to cover the front area of the shirt Contact paper is clear paper used for covering books. It has a normal side and a sticky side that peels off. You want to tape your paper to the peeling side so that the design is visible through the front of the contact paper—the non-sticky side. You can also use a piece of transparency or clear paper. Attach it to the printout of your design with tape. Lay the attached papers on a flat surface, like a table. Trace the lines with the craft knife or an exacto knife. Keep in mind the black parts you cut out are the parts of the design that will be filled with paint. Remove the normal paper with the design from the contact paper as well. Place the sticky stencil onto the t-shirt, making sure it is straight and not wrinkled. If you are using a transparency or clear paper instead of contact paper, attach the transparency to the shirt with tape. Doing this separates the front and back so the ink doesn’t bleed through to the other side. Only put paint on the spots that have been cut out of the contact paper—the spots that will be painted in dark on the t-shirt. Let the paint dry. Test the paint by gently touching the painted spots. If paint comes away on your finger, it is not fully dry. You will now have a stenciled on t-shirt. You can use the stencil to make another shirt if you want more than one stenciled t-shirt.


Gather your materials. Tear a 2 x 2 inch (5 x 5cm) square of duct tape. Fold the right corner down toward the bottom left corner. Fold the left corner down flush with the other corner. Wrap the petal around the straw or craft stick. Continue to lay the petals over each other. Rip off enough duct tape to cover the rest of the craft stick.

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You’ll need duct tape and a ruler to make the petals of the rose. You’ll also need a craft stick or a straw, whichever you prefer, to make the stem.  Using a craft stick will create a sturdier stem, but choose the items you have on hand. You’ll also need some scissors if you prefer to cut your tape instead of rip it. It doesn't have to be exact, but it should be approximately the size mentioned. However, if you want all of your petals to be the same size, feel free to use a ruler to measure 2 inches (5 cm) of width and height. Then, rip or cut off the piece. But, do not extend it all the way to the opposite corner. Leave about a quarter of an inch of the sticky underside showing so that the border is framing each side. Again, it doesn’t have to be an exact measurement. An approximation is fine. Match up the top left corner with the right corner so that they are flush with each other. None of the sticky underside should be showing. As with before, approximations are fine, and it is okay if the corners are not lined up perfectly. This piece is the basis for the petal. Make 7 more petals to make a simple small rose. Make about  14 more if you want a bigger rose. Turn the petal so that the pointy end of the petal sticks up when it is wrapped around the stick. If need be, turn it on an angle to orient it like at an angle.  If you continue in this fashion, it creates the appearance of a rose opening. Repeat steps 1-4 by wrapping the petals around the stick in the same direction as before. After wrapping all of the petals, you will see that they have formed into a rose. Bend the petals to make them fluff out as much as you want. Seven to 8 inches (17.78 cm - 20.32 cm) should be plenty. Then, place the top left corner of the tape on the bottom of the rose and start to wrap it diagonally around the craft stick. Wrap it all the way down the stem until the  rest of the straw or craft stick is covered in duct tape. To sturdy the rose, rip off a one-inch (2.54 cm) section of duct tape, and wrap it vertically around the...


Gather your materials. Tie off the ends your rope and make sure to neatly trim them.

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To make a lanyard keychain all you will need is a split ring or keychain assembly and some thin rope or plastic lacing. The rope or lacing will need to be at least four times as long as you would like your finished lanyard to be, so lengths will vary, but they need to be at least three feet long so you will have enough rope to handle.   Cut two pieces of the rope or lacing the same length. It is nice if each is a different color, so that your finished keychain is colorful and so it's easier to keep track of where you are in your weaving process. Some people like to make these keychains with paracord, so that if you are ever in an emergency and you need a bit of rope, you will have it with you! Your lanyard keychain is finished!


Gather your materials. Trim the excess fabric (option 2).

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You will first need to purchase either non-buckle board, masonite, hard board, or birch plywood.  The first can be found at your local arts and crafts store and is traditionally labeled Gator Board.  The latter three can be found at your nearest hardware store.  You will need 1/2 inch thick panels.  The dimensions of the board should be the size you wish your painting to be.  If you can only buy pre-cut panels, make sure to get one larger than your final project.  You will also need:  Linen or cotton canvas material.   This usually comes in rolls and can be found at arts and crafts stores.  A typical precut canvas size is a 21 inch (53.34 cm) height x 50 inch (127 cm) width roll of canvas, which will give you two 20 inch x 24 inch (50.8 cm x 60.96 cm) canvas panels. Miracle Muck Glue Rotary blade and/or scissors Ruler Pencil Rubber paint roller Heavy rubber roller Paper towels Sand paper Rotary saw (for masonite, hard board, and/or birch plywood) Brown wrapping paper Take your rotary blade and cut the canvas as close to the board as you can possibly get it.  Make sure that you are cutting on a safe surface such as a cutting board.  Depending on the thickness of the canvas you may have to pass over the same area multiple times in order to cut it.


Gather your materials. Use different colors of paperclips.

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A paper clip can also be used to make a fake septum piercing.  Paperclips are often easier to manipulate than wires or earring hooks. You'll also need a pencil and pliers. You simply need a paperclip, a pen, and a pair of scissors. If you're using paper clips, consider using different colors. You can make a fake septum piercing in a variety of fun colors, like red or purple. One downside to colored paperclips is that sometimes the paint is cheap and chips easily. If you're using a colorful paperclip, you may have to frequently replace your fake piercing.


Gather your materials. Use the bowl and candle to create soot. Scrape off the soot into the mixing bowl. Mix the soot with corn starch. Store the powder in an airtight container.

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You will need corn starch, a measuring cup, a lighter or matches, a candle, a ceramic bowl, a knife or paintbrush, and a mixing bowl. The mixing bowl can be glass, plastic, or ceramic. However, you can’t substitute the ceramic bowl for another kind of bowl. The process of making the fingerprint powder can crack glass and melt plastic. If you decide that making your own powder is too much trouble, you can buy it from science and hobby supply stores or online. First, use the lighter or the matches to light the candle. Next, hold the bottom of the ceramic bowl over the flame. The candle will burn a layer of soot onto the bottom of the bowl. Move the bowl over the flame so that every part of the bottom touches the candle.  Wear an oven mitt or use a dishtowel to protect your hand from the heat. Always be careful when working with an open flame. Children should have adult supervision. Hold the soot-covered bowl over the mixing bowl. Next, use a dull knife or a paintbrush to scrape the soot off of the ceramic bowl and into the mixing bowl. You will have about a teaspoon of soot. The more soot you have, the more fingerprint powder you will be able to make.  Repeat these steps to make more soot as many times as you’d like. Scraping soot is very messy. If you want to avoid getting soot on your fingers, wear gloves. Similarly, cover your workspace with a towel to keep it clean. Use a measuring cup to evaluate how much soot you have gathered. Next, add an equal part of corn starch to the soot. Mix the two powders together well with a whisk. For example, if you collected a ¼ cup of soot, you would need to add a ¼ cup of corn starch. Place the fingerprint powder in a plastic food storage container with a lid. Alternatively, store your fingerprint powder in a plastic re-sealable bag. These containers are airtight and won’t allow any moisture into your powder. Keep the container on a shelf in a low-traffic area. Otherwise, someone may knock the powder over and create a sooty mess.


Gather your materials. Use your pour plate or spread plate. Make sure you have the concentration right. Count the bacteria.

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There are a few special tools you should have in addition to what is stocked in most biology labs. Having your instruments and containers ahead of time will allow you to complete the experiment without having to run back and forth to the cabinet. It is important to know what each piece will be used for up front. You should know some basic terms as well.  Get a counting chamber. These tools have a chamber, slide, and microscope built in, so they are easy to set up and use. You can buy them from lab and classroom supply companies. They come with instructions that guide you through the whole process.   Get a pour plate or a spread plate. These are the containers you will observe the bacteria in. Culture is the term used to describe an organism grown artificially for an experiment. Broth is a liquid medium that the culture grows in. You can also place the bacteria directly onto a plate for viewing under a microscope. Apply the culture to the plate and place under a microscope. Observe how many bacteria cells there are. If there are too many bacteria, they will overlap and you won’t get an accurate count. Dilute the culture by mixing it with more broth. If there are too few, you won’t have enough for an accurate number. Filter out the broth using a filtration system, or add more of the culture if you have it available to you. The last step is physically counting them. Look through the magnifier on the counting chamber and write down how many you see. Compare this with other tests.