Cut the tomatoes into pieces. Simmer the tomato chunks at medium heat for about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the burner and stir in 1/4 tsp of baking soda. Add the rest of your ingredients and finish cooking the dish.

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Most dishes will require you to cut up the tomatoes anyway. You can choose how large or small you want the chunks to be depending on what you are making. Note that smaller pieces will heat through more quickly. If you are going to add the tomatoes into another hot dish, you may not need to cook them for as long. If you cut bigger chunks, you may need to cook them a little longer. Be sure to watch the tomatoes carefully so that you can remove them from heat if they start to burn or become too crispy. This amount works well for six medium tomatoes, so for more or less tomatoes you can adjust the amount of baking soda. Stir the baking soda so that all the pieces of tomato get a slight coating. The baking soda will fizz as it reacts with the acid of the tomatoes. Once the fizzing has stopped, which may take a minute or so, finish cooking the dish. The baking soda will reduce the overall acid content of the dish and does not usually alter the taste of the dish.


Cut the top off of a plastic 2-liter bottle using a knife. Begin making the mosquito bait by dissolving brown sugar in water. Add a package of dry active yeast once the mixture cools. Pour the mixture into your bottle. Tape your bottle top inside the base of the bottle to make a funnel. Place your trap in the desired location and watch for them to arrive.

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Use a knife to carefully remove the top of the bottle by cutting where the neck of the bottle meets the bottle’s main section. Follow this line as you cut all the way around the circumference of the bottle. Hold the bottle firmly at its base as you cut.  Make sure to cut with the blade of the knife facing away from you. If the knife slips on the plastic, it will be less likely to cut you when you are holding it this way. Once the top is removed, set it aside for now. Bring 1 cup (240 mL) of water to a rolling boil in a pot on the stove. Once the water has begun to boil, add 1⁄4 cup (59 mL) of brown sugar and remove the pot from the heat. Stir vigorously to make sure that the sugar is fully dissolved in the water. Wait for the water and sugar mixture to cool before adding 0.25 ounces (7 grams) of yeast; otherwise, the high temperature will kill the yeast. Insert a cooking thermometer to make sure that the mixture is between 120 °F (49 °C) and 130 °F (54 °C) before adding the yeast. Once the mixture has reached the desired temperature, gently add the package of yeast, stirring to incorporate it completely.  If you don’t have a thermometer handy, you can also judge whether the mixture is cool enough to use by carefully dipping your fingertip into the liquid. Once it is cool enough to insert your finger comfortably, it is ready for the yeast. Make sure not to let the sugar water cool too much; otherwise, the yeast will not activate. Hold the bottle firmly at its base with one hand. With the other hand, carefully pour the yeast, water, and sugar mixture into the bottle.  Ask a friend to hold the bottle stable for you if you need both hands to safely handle the pot. Your mosquito bait is now ready to go! Turn the top of your bottle upside down and place it inside the base of the bottle so that it creates a funnel leading down to the bottom. Use duct tape to securely fasten the bottle top to the top rim of the bottle. Make sure to seal where they meet completely with tape. Do not stick the funnel so far down into...


Cut the vanilla beans open and scrape out the paste. Pour the vodka over the vanilla bean paste. Infuse the vodka with the vanilla for at least several weeks.

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To create the vanilla essence for the perfume, you need fresh vanilla beans. Use a sharp knife to cut 8 to10 beans open lengthwise so you expose the paste inside. Scrape the paste out of the beans with the knife, and chop the bean shells into pieces. Place both the paste and chopped shells in a small glass jar that has a lid.  Vanilla beans can be fairly expensive, so it’s usually best to buy them in bulk. You can make larger batches of perfume and give it as gifts for special occasions. Scraping the paste out of more beans means you’ll create a more intense vanilla essence. However, if the beans are large, you may only need 8 or so. After you’ve scraped out the vanilla bean paste and chopped up the shells, add vodka to the glass jar. You should pour enough liquid to cover the paste and chopped shells completely, with approximately ¼-inch (6.35-mm) more on top of the vanilla beans. Be sure to use vodka that’s at least 70 proof. When the vanilla bean paste and shells and vodka are mixed, cover the jar. Store it in a cool, dark location for three weeks to three months. The fragrance will come out of the vanilla bean paste and shells to scent and color the vodka.  The longer you allow the vanilla to infuse the vodka, the stronger your perfume’s fragrance will be. Check on the essence periodically while it’s steeping to analyze the scent and color. When the vanilla scent is strong and the color is rich and dark, the essence is ready. Shake the mixture every so often while it’s steeping to ensure that the scent is distributed throughout the liquid.


Cut the vegetables. Rinse the corned beef brisket. Spray the Crock Pot with nonstick cooking spray.

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The potatoes, celery, and cabbage will all need to be cut into smaller pieces.  The baby red potatoes should be briefly rinsed with cool water and scrubbed with a vegetable brush. When done, cut them in half crosswise. The celery stalks should be cut into pieces that are roughly 3 inches (7.6 cm) long. Rinse under cool water if necessary. The cabbage must cut into six or more wedges. Cut the cabbage in half lengthwise and remove part of the core, leaving just enough intact to hold the leaves together. Cut each half into three or four wedges. Rinse under cool water, if necessary. The baby carrots and pearl onions do not need to be cut for this recipe. If, however, you are using standard carrots and standard onions, the carrots must be cleaned and cut into 2-inch (5-cm) pieces, and the onion should be peeled and cut into wedges. Quickly rinse the brisket under cool, running water for a few seconds to remove any traces of ice or other substances. Pat dry with clean paper towels. If you stored the corned beef brisket in the freezer beforehand, it should be thawed before you begin the cooking process. Thaw meat in your refrigerator overnight in order to defrost it carefully and effectively. Coat the bottom and sides of the slow cooker with a fine spray. Alternatively, you could use a slow cooker liner, instead. Either option will be enough to minimize or prevent the amount of burnt, stuck-on food.


Cut the watermelon in half, down its length. Place the four wedges on a board for cutting. Cut the watermelon into slices about 2.5cm/1 inch thick. Prepare the batter. Heat oil in a deep fryer. Roll each watermelon piece in the flour, to coat. Dip the watermelon pieces into the batter. Place the dipped pieces into the deep fryer. Fry until the batter turns golden brown. Sprinkle liberally with powdered confectioners/icing sugar. Serve.

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Then cut each half in half, again cutting down the length. Cut off the rind from each wedge. Keep this rind for deep fried rind below. Then cut each slice into cubes, sticks or triangles. You might even go fancy and use a cookie cutter to cut out special shapes like stars or sheep. Beat the egg whites. Add the cornstarch and water to the beaten eggs and whisk together well. When it's smooth, it's ready to dip with. Heat to 180ºC/350ºF.  Cover completely with batter. Don't add too many at once or they won't fry properly. About 3-4 pieces at a time is a good amount. Lift the pieces out with a slotted spoon and place on kitchen paper to drain the grease.  The fried watermelon pieces can be served in a bowl or on a plate. Or, you can stick them onto a popsicle stick or skewer (cut off the pointy ends before using) for the fairground version. Warn anyone eating these treats that they'll be pretty hot inside, as watermelon has a high water content and this will be bubbling around inside after frying.


Cut through the caulking with a utility knife. Use a pry bar to pull off the trim. Scrape off any remaining caulking with a knife.

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Work your knife’s blade under the outside edge of the trim. You may also cut through some paint while doing this, but that’s okay. Cut all the way around the trim to free it. Make sure to cut all the way through the caulking to avoid damaging the paint when you pry off the trim. Slide the edge of the pry bar under the trim near a nail. You can tap a hammer against the back of the bar to help wedge it in. Pull back one piece of trim at a time, taking care not to damage the walls and door jamb. It doesn’t matter which side you start on, as long as you remove all the pieces you want to replace. To protect the walls, hold a scrap of wood against the wall and rest the back of the pry bar against it as you work. There’s not really a way to protect the jamb besides being very careful when leveraging the trim. Use the utility knife or a chisel to remove any old caulk left over. You may also need to scrape down thick layers of paint to level out the space where the new trim will rest.


Cut through the middle of a wire hanger. Put a thread spool onto the bottom of the hanger and bend it closed. Hang the pulley system on a rod or dowel. Loop a string over the top of the pulley. Tie weights to one end of the string. Pull down on one end of the rope to lift up the weight.

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Use a pair of scissors or wire cutters to cut through the bottom of a wire hanger. Make sure your cut is directly in the middle of the hanger so you can easily put your spool on. Leave the top of the hanger intact so you can hang it when you use your pulley. If you don’t have a wire hanger, you can make the axle for your pulley by propping a broomstick between 2 tables or counters instead. Secure it in place by setting a heavy object on one end of the stick. Gently pry open the cut you made in the hanger and slide a thread spool on it. The size of the spool doesn’t matter as long as it fits onto the hanger. Slide both parts of the hanger through the center of the spool and use pliers to bend the ends into hooks to keep the spool in place. You can buy a spool from a craft store, or you may reuse one that you already have from thread or twine. Look for an open rod or dowel in a closet, or set one up between 2 tables. If you need to, set a weight on top of the rod to prevent it from spinning or moving around. Use the hook on the hanger to hang it on the rod or dowel. Cut a piece of string or twine so it’s about twice as long as the distance from the floor to the bottom of the wire hanger. Drape one side of the string over the spool so both sides are the same length.  If you plan on doing a lot of experiments with pulleys, you can tie a small metal hook to one end of the string so it’s easier to hang weights.  You can also use twine if you want your pulley to be slightly stronger. Use things that are lightweight, such as a few washers or a thin textbook, as your weights. Tie the end of the string around your objects so they don’t fall out while you’re lifting them. Let the loose end of your string hang down freely on the other side of the spool. Set the weight on the floor to start your experiment.  Pulleys make your work easier by distributing the weight and forces across the different sides of strings. Be careful not to choose anything too heavy since it will cause the metal hanger to bend and deform. Grab the...


Cut to the chase. Let her see that you're hurt too. Let her talk. Explain as much as you want. Stick to your word. Don't be a jerk. Keep it short and sweet. Try to end on a positive note.

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You can say something nice or make small talk first, but there's no use in prolonging the pain. After a minute or two, once you and the girl have settled in, you should just tell her that you want to end the relationship. The longer you sit there, the more nervous you'll get, and the more likely you are to get off track. If you and the girl make small talk for twenty minutes before you break up with her, then you'll be much more likely to confuse her. Just take a deep breath and tell her that it's over as nicely as possible. Here are some things that you can say:  "I'm sorry to say that I think our relationship has run its course. We'd both be happier if we moved on." "This relationship is no longer working for me. I know we've tried everything, and it just won't get better." "It may not be a surprise that I haven't been happy in this relationship for a while. I really care about you, but I just don't think we should date anymore." If you really don't care at all, then there's no point in faking it. But if the break up really is hurting you, then make sure she sees it. Look into her eyes, talk slowly, and let her see the pain on your face. Most people don't think that the person doing the dumping also feels pain in a break up, but both people actually suffer. If she sees that you're not making an easy, careless decision that means nothing to you, then she'll have a better chance of understanding where you're coming from. If you care about the girl, give her the respect she deserves and let her tell you how she feels, ask questions, and share her feelings. She may just want to cry and be upset, and that's okay. She may start name-calling and getting angry -- in that case, you may need to wrap things up. If she's rambling on about the same thing over and over, then you can cut her off, but if she genuinely wants to share her feelings and is really hurt, then do her the kindness of letting her talk to you. She'll likely have some questions for you, and you can decide how much you want to explain. If you've...


Cut toilet paper roll into small ovals. Join one oval to another oval with glue and a hair pin. Repeat the process where you join two ovals together, glue and pin together until the glue has dried. Join the two sets of ovals together to form a flower shape. Join additional ovals to the original flower, creating more flowers and petals by using only one oval. Lay completed sculpture on several sheets of newspaper in a well ventilated area. Apply spray paint to the sculpture. Finished.

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For best results, pre-measure the toilet roll and mark where you will cut.  Consider marking each roll before cutting to expedite the process. Hold the two ovals together with your thumb and index finger and then add a dab of Tacky Glue between the two. Slide a hair clip over the ovals and hold until completely dry.     Place a dab of glue along the base of each set and pin together. Hold and allow to dry. Add flourish to the ends of the sculpture by cutting one oval in half.  Run the side of your scissors along the inside of the roll to create a small curl.  Attach the rounded edge to the sculpture and allow the curl to hang off the side.    Allow sculpture to dry overnight. Coat the sides and insides of the ovals with paint and consider applying two coats. Allow for ample dry time before hanging sculpture. Check the paint can directions for appropriate time.


Cut two equal lengths of material. Secure your lanyard hook.

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You can cut it as long as you'd like, but keep in mind that the thicker your material, the smaller the length. Additionally, you should use different colors to make your lanyard look prettier and to help you differentiate between your strands as you weave. For boondoggle, 3 to 4 yards is a good length for a beginner's lanyard. To secure your lanyard hook, you can use a push-pin on a desk or a wall, tape it down, or pinch it between your knees. The more secure, the better, as you will want to be able to tug on your strands of material throughout this process to tighten the stitching.


Cut two pieces wood. Screw the wooden braces inside of your ceiling hole. Cut out a piece of drywall that's 2 inches (5.08 cm) wider and longer than the hole. Measure and mark 1 inch (2.54 cm) from the edge of each side of the drywall piece. Cut through the back layer of the drywall, leaving the front layer of paper. Apply a thin layer of joint compound around the hole. Push your replacement drywall into the hole. Screw the drywall into your wooden braces. Work the compound over the surface of your new drywall. Allow the drywall compound to dry overnight. Sand the ceiling and remove excess joint compound. Paint over your new drywall patch.

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Use a saw to cut 2 pieces of 9x4x1/2 inch (22.86x10.16x1.27 cm) plywood. These pieces of wood will act as a brace for your drywall. If you cut a hole in your ceiling and you have a metal runner or ceiling beam, then you won't need to create these wooden braces because you can screw directly into the runner or beams instead.  Alternatively, you could cut back the drywall to the center of each of the closest framing members, which would allow you to skip this step. Put the wooden braces that you made out of plywood into the hole and lay it flat over your ceiling, so there is a two inch (5.08 cm) overlap over your hole. Then, screw in two screws through your existing ceiling and into the beam. The screws should be on the top and bottom of each piece of wood. Repeat the process on the other side of the hole. Cutting your replacement drywall two inches longer and wider will leave one inch (2.54 cm) of slack on each side. This is called a hot patch and only recommended to be done on smaller 2-inch x 2-inch (5 cm x 5 cm) patches. Turn over the drywall square and use a ruler to measure 1 inch (2.54 cm) in from each edge of the drywall. Then, use a straight edge to draw vertical and horizontal lines so that it looks like a 1 inch wide (2.54 cm) frame around the drywall piece. This slack will let you blend your replacement drywall in with your ceiling so that it lies flush. With a utility knife, cut through the back layer of paper and the drywall gypsum until you reach the front layer of the drywall. Use the marks that you made on the back of the drywall as a guide while you cut. Then, use a putty knife to carefully peel back the back layer of paper and drywall gypsum, so that the front side facing paper forms a 1 inch (2.54 cm) frame around your drywall patch.  Make sure not to cut too deeply, or you will cut into the front layer of the drywall. You will use the front layer of paper to help blend in your repairs. Your drywall patch can be held in place with lightweight or all-purpose drywall compound. You can purchase...


Cut two-by-four boards to create a frame for the cabinet. Install the frame. Patch the screw heads. Replace insulation if you’ve cut into an exterior wall. Mark the cabinet installation holes and drill pilot holes. Place the cabinet in the hole and screw it into place.

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If you’ve notched a stud, cut a pair of two-by-four boards so they will fit flush between the cut stud and the next intact studs on either side. If your studs are intact, cut a board so that it will fit snugly between the studs. Either way, your two-by-fours will need to be flush with the drywall opening to create a secure, well-fitting frame for the cabinet.  If you’ve notched a stud, cut a pair of boards for the bottom of the drywall opening and another pair to frame the top. Cut another pair of boards to fit vertically on both sides of the drywall opening. If your studs are intact and your cabinet outline is square with them, just cut two boards to fit between the studs at the bottom and top. After cutting two-by-fours to the appropriate sizes, grab a bottom board, apply construction adhesive its ends, and place it between the wall studs. Make sure the board is flush with the drywall opening. Hold the board in place and drive screws through the drywall just below the opening to secure the board. Repeat the sequence to attach the other boards. You’ll likely find the 4 to 6 drywall screws that outline the opening and hold the frame in place unsightly. You can cover the screw heads with joint compound, let it dry, then sand it smooth with a fine grit sandpaper. Then prime and paint the area to make your work invisible. You'll need to patch the screw heads before installing the medicine cabinet. Once it's mounted, the cabinet might make the area harder to patch, prime, and paint. If you cut the recess into an exterior wall, you likely encountered insulation. If you removed any insulation while you were installing the frame, put it back into place. Depending on your cabinet’s depth, you might need to replace thick insulation with a more compact product. Visit your local home improvement store and ask a sale representative for help choosing a product such as vacuum insulated panels. Place the cabinet into the recess, open the door, and locate the installation holes on the sides. Use a pencil to mark the holes’...


Cut up slips of paper. Write each role on the slips of paper. Put the slips in a bowl.

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Make enough slips for each person playing. Try to make them small enough so its difficult to read what is on them from far away. You will need to write a slip for:  “Murderer” “Detective” On the rest of the slips of paper, write “suspect”. Have each player take one. Remind everyone not to reveal who they are going to play in the game.


Cut up the back of your duct tape shirt. Take the shirt off. Seal the gap with a strip of duct tape. Touch up the top and bottom edges, if desired. Stuff the shirt with polyester stuffing.

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Have a person you trust help you cut down the back of your duct tape shirt, from bottom to top. Make sure that they cut through the duct tape, shirt, and plastic wrap layers. You should now have a body-double made out of duct tape. If anything became dented on the mannequin during this step, such as a beast, use your fingers to gently push it back out. Place the cut ends together so that they match up.  Cover them with a strip of duct tape to seal the gap. For extra security, apply tape to both the inside and outside of the shirt. Take a look at the top and bottom edges of the mannequin. If you are happy with them, leave them be. If they look ragged or jagged, touch them up with more tape. Consider cutting the top edge of the neck down at a slight, downward angle to mimic a real mannequin. Make sure that you still have some neck left, however! If you need to, cover the neck hole with a few strips of duct tape so that the stuffing doesn't come out the other end. Keep stuffing until the mannequin feels full and firm. You will need about two bags of polyester stuffing.


Cut up. Lay out interviews in order in timeline. Slash cut. Find tempo music for you to edit to. Rough cut. Work out why you are procrastinating: Screening. Polish. Watch on a different screen and take notes. Grading. Separately sync it if you recorded the sound. Adjust levels of sound. Do another screening with some professionals before you master your film.

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Break down interviews and other longer things into manageable segments. This can be done in final cut by marking when someone goes onto a new topic. On top of this start putting appropriate shots. Put all your footage in order on the timeline without doing any editing. Putting on loud music can help you do this, as it drowns out your internal dialogue and doubts.     Start cutting. If you are not satisfied with the structure, create a beat sheet for your documentary and brainstorm what doesn't work. Analyze structure of similar documentaries. With editing, it's easier to get lost in the small details. By analyzing similar documentaries it can make you think creatively about it again. With longer documentaries unless you have a presenter, it is common to have a parallel narrative. Do you find it unpleasant? If so, write down why. Do you feel overwhelmed by the task? If so, break it down into more manageable chunks. Are you disorganized? If so, write down why. Are you a perfectionist? Don't go for perfect. Instead, go for what is achievable. Rough cuts are only rough, so just do it and don't try to make it perfect. Go for a walk. A gentle stroll helps you to reflect. Work under time restrictions. When you feel fairly happy with your rough cut, show it to people who are not involved and ask for their feedback. At this stage, you can still make drastic changes. However, remember that their feedback might not always be helpful, so always follow your instincts. Based on the feedback, go back and do more editing. Watching your documentary on a different screen such as a TV, mobile, or ipod could help you spot things you didn't spot. Colour correct your documentary to achieve continuity between different cameras and achieve a particular mood. It's a great tool, for this is plural eyes. Beware that sound editing could take longer than expected.


Cut vertical slits along the collar for a neckline weave. Pull the second piece of fabric through the first. Weave each piece through the loop before it. Weave the sides or back of your t-shirt.

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Cut small slits all the way around below the collar band of a t-shirt to create a woven pattern. Make sure the cuts are evenly spaced and perpendicular to the neckline.  The slits should be about 2 inches (5 cm) long. Make the first slit where you want to start half as long as the rest, as it will begin to open up into a hole during this process. The slits should be about 1 inch (2.5 cm) away from one another, but this measurement does not need to be exact. When you’re done cutting, stretch out the fabric on either side of where you cut to make it easier to manipulate. Pick up the piece of fabric between the first two cuts you made. Pull the second piece of fabric under and over the first piece, creating a loop.  Start where you made your smaller cut. Your first slit will be pulled open into more of a hole by the weaving process, so it’s best to start with a smaller slit if possible. To create more of a braided look, pull the second piece of fabric under the first, then twist it once before moving onto the next step. Take the third piece of fabric and pull it under and up over the loop you created with the first two pieces. Continue pulling the next piece through the current loop until you’ve reached the end.  Remember to twist each loop once before you pull the next piece through it to create more of a braided look if you choose to do so. When you reach the end and you have a final loop with nothing to pull through it, cut the loop in half. Tie the pieces securely to the end of your weaved fabric to secure it. Trim the ends carefully if they are too long. Choose to create a woven pattern on the sides or back of your t-shirt. Cut slits and use the same method of pulling one piece under and over the previous piece to create the pattern.  If you weave the sides, make sure you lay the t-shirt flat, with the fabric folded evenly along each side before cutting. If you weave the back, pick up the t-shirt and fold it in the opposite way, so that the armholes line up and the side seams meet before you cut the back....


Cut warm-season grasses down to 3 to 6 inches (7.6 to 15.2 cm) tall. Cut cool-season grasses down to about a third of their height. Hand-prune individual blades between cuttings.

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Using hedging shears, cut any part of your grass that is under 3 feet (91 cm) at the time of pruning down to a height of about 3 inches (7.6 cm). Areas of your plant that are over 3 feet (91 cm) tall should be cut closer to the 6 inches (15 cm) mark.  If it’s easier for you, you can make two straight cuts, one at each height. If you want your plant to maintain a more a natural look, you can always slowly taper the grass heights to transition between the highest and lowest points.  You can use handheld or powered hedging shears for this process. Cool season grasses don’t need to be cut down quite as far as warm season grasses. Instead, they should be trimmed down to their lowest point of new growth, about ⅔ of the way down the plant. For a 3 feet (91 cm) tall grass, this means you should cut it back to about 1 foot (30 cm). Just like with warm-season grasses, you can use either handheld or powered hedging shears for this process. Even though you typically only cut back ornamental grass once a year, you can hand-prune dead or unsightly blades of grass any time. Keep an eye out for brown or wilted stocks or patches, and remove those as they arise. All you need to do is cut off each wilted blade at its base using gardening shears.


Cut your cake. Chill the layers. Frost the top of the bottom layer. Add the second cake layer and frost. Add the final layer of frosting. Finished.

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If you made a single round cake or Bundt cake and want to make a layer cake, take a sharp knife and cut the cake in half to separate the top and bottom into two layers. If you baked more than one cake and are going to layer them, don’t cut them in half. Place the cakes in the refrigerator for about an hour before frosting it. This will make the cake stiffer, less delicate, and easier to work with. Place the bottom layer of cake on a cake plate. With a frosting knife or icing spatula (or a regular butter knife), spread a thin layer of icing on top of the first layer of cake. Refrigerate for 15 minutes before proceeding. If you want to add an extra element to your cake, consider adding a layer of fruit, jam, custard, or ganache on top of the icing. Raspberry, strawberry, and cherry are traditional fruit or jam choices to pair with cake. Carefully place the second layer of cake back on top of the first layer. With your frosting knife, apply a thin layer of frosting to the entire cake. This is called the crumb coat, and it will keep the final decorative layer of frosting clean and crumb free.  If you made a Bundt cake, don’t forget to frost the inner well along with the outside of the cake. Refrigerate the cake for 20 to 30 minutes before applying the final layer of frosting. If you are using a glaze, drizzle glaze evenly over the top of the cake one spoonful at a time. Allow the glaze to drip down over the sides of the cake. Apply a thicker and even layer of frosting over the entire crumb coat. Use the back of the spatula or knife to even out the frosting and make the surface as smooth as possible.  For an added touch, sprinkle the top with fruit, coconut flakes, cocoa powder, or citrus zest. Serve immediately, or cover with a lid until you're ready to eat.


Cut your kangaroo paws when the first flower opens. Make your cut about halfway down the stem. Cut 3-7 kangaroo paw stems to make a full bouquet. Put your kangaroo paws in a decorative vase full of water. Cut the tips of the stems every day or every other day. Change the water in your vase when you snip the stems.

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Kangaroo paws have many flowering buds lining the stems. If you want to display your flowers in a vase or bouquet, snip your stems when you see the first bud open into a flower. This way, you can get the maximum display time for your flowers. If you cut the stem about half way, the flower buds continue to develop where you made the cut. This promotes new growth quicker, so you'll have even more beautiful flowering stems. To cut, use pruning shears and snip the stem at a 45-degree angle. If you want to make a gorgeous floral display, use a few kangaroo paw stems and a decorative vase. In addition, you can add other green accents or additional flowers to your bouquet. This creates an attractive centerpiece, for example. You can place the centerpiece in your office, bathroom, living room, or kitchen. Fill up a vase of your choosing about ⅔ full with cool water, and then place your kangaroo paws inside. Make sure each of your stems is submerged at the bottom. Your cut flowers absorb water from the bottom of the stem. To keep the flower healthy, take them out of the vase, place them on a paper towel, and cut the end of the plant at an angle. Remove about 1⁄16–1⁄8 in (0.16–0.32 cm) of the stem.  This extends the vase life of your kangaroo paws. Cut your stems under flowing water. This will help prevent air from getting drawn up into the stem and allow the stems to absorb water more easily. Before you snip your stems, pour out the water and fill up your vase about two thirds of the way full with fresh water. If there are any leaves in the vase, take them out and throw them away. With proper watering, your kangaroo paws should last in a vase for 3-5 days.


Cut your leather into the desired shape. Wet your leather. Make any other alterations to the leather.

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Before stamping your leather, cut it into the shape you want. For example, if you're making leather name tags, cut your leather into the shape of a name tag before stamping it. You can use a straight-edge rotary cutter or an x-acto knife to cut leather while it's lying on a flat surface. You should always cut leather on the "flesh side." This is the wrong side of the leather, meaning the side that you will not be stamping as it will not be the exterior of your leather project. Leather is a tough material, so it needs to be moist for stamps to stick. Get a sponge moist with water. Then, press the sponge onto both sides of the leather. Wet the flesh side first and then the front of the leather. The leather should be damp, but not soaking wet. If your project requires you make any other alterations to the leather, do so before stamping it. For example, if you need to punch a hole in leather for a name tag, do so before stamping your leather.


Cut your paper into a square.

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Any size square will work. Really. That being said, smaller squares, a few inches (7.5 cm or so) across will be easier to work with and handle when you’re assembling the flower. For the paper, construction, watercolor, or scrapbook paper works best. Anything that's on the stiffer side and colorful will do the trick.


Cut your paper. Create your design. Add your glue. Begin rolling your bead. Finish the bead. Add a varnish. Remove the bead. Create more beads.

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Cut long triangles from a piece of white printing paper. The base of the triangle will be the width of the bead and the longer the triangle is, the fatter the bead will become. 1-inch by 4-inch (2.5cm x 10cm) triangles will make slender 1-inch (2.5cm) beads, whereas 1/2-inch by 8-inch (1.27cm x 20cm) triangles would create fat 1/2-inch (1.27cm) beads. Cut accordingly. Draw on each cut-out with markers, pencils, or pens. Since the triangle will eventually be rolled onto itself, only the outermost edges and the last inch or two of the tip of the paper will be visible; these are the areas where you should focus your design. Play around with a few colors and design combinations as you go to see what looks best.  Color the tip of the triangle red and then alternate 1-inch (2.5cm) strips of orange and red marker down the outside edges; this would create a bead with a red center surrounded by orange and red stripes. Color the tip of the triangle black, move down an inch, draw 1-inch (2.5cm) black strips on either outside edge, move down an inch, and repeat; this would create a zebra-striped bead with a black center. Do not use washable markers, especially if you plan to glaze your beads; the colors will run. Turn each triangle design-side down and apply a bit of glue to the pointy end. A glue stick or a tiny bit of liquid glue will do. Starting at the wide end, roll the triangle around itself using a dowel or other slender cylinder. A rounded toothpick or bamboo skewer would work nicely as well. Keep the triangle centered as you roll, otherwise, your designs won’t display correctly.Roll tightly, especially if you want the beads to last. Try to avoid having space between the layers. Glue the tip of the triangle to the rolled paper. If the bead doesn’t stay tightly rolled up, apply another dab of glue. Use a finish like Marvin Medium, ModPodge, or Diamond Glaze. Let it dry thoroughly, making sure it doesn't stick to anything. Try putting your toothpick into a pincushion or a piece of Styrofoam to keep it from coming...


Cut your pieces. Attach the legs to the seat. Attach the brace bars. Sand the step stool. Add finishing touches. Done!

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Cut an 18" piece of 1x12, two 12" pieces of 1x12, and then split (lengthwise) a final piece of 16.5" long 1x12 into three, long, equal pieces. Glue the 12" piece to the 18" piece to create the legs, keeping the long side of the 12" pieces flush with the edges of the 18" piece. Drill pilot holes and then use 2" decking screws to drill through the top of the 18" piece and into the sides of the 12" pieces. Glue and then fit two of the 16.5" pieces halfway along the 12" pieces and then use pilot holes and 2" decking screws to secure these in place as well. Sand the whole stool once the glue has set to prepare it for painting and give the edges a finishing look. Paint the stool or use a stain, depending on the look you want. You can also do things like add rubber runners along the bottom of the feet to keep them from sliding around. Enjoy your new stool!


Cut your plums and remove the pits. Lay the plums on your dehydrator tray. Place the tray in the dehydrator. Check the plums every 4 to 6 hours. Check every 2 hours when you begin removing prunes. Allow the plums to dehydrate for 14 hours.

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Remove the stem. Then, cut the plum in half around the pit using a sharp pairing knife.  Pull the two halves of the plums apart. Remove the pit and discard. If you don't have a pairing knife, you can use another sharp knife. However, be sure to avoid a large knife. Plums are small, and you want to make sure you maintain control of your knife as you cut around the pit. It's a good idea to push the plums close together, as this will eliminate the need to do two batches. However, make sure the plums are not touching. This is important for air circulation, which allows the plums to dry properly. You should dehydrate your foods at 115 °F (46.1 °C) when working with a conventional dehydrator. However, if you have an excalibur dehydrator, start out at 145 degrees.  Make sure the dehydrator is at the right temperature before placing the plums in the oven. Place the tray in the dehydrator slowly to avoid knocking the plums together. You want to turn the plums at some point to complete the dehydration process. Check every 4 to 6 hours to see if the plums are ready to turn.  When plums are ready to turn, the upside should be very dry. The plums should release easily from the tray. If the upside of the plum is still moist, and the plum does not come off easily, leave the plums for a bit longer before turning them. The plums will turn into prunes at different rates. When you notice some plums completely lack moisture, they've completed the pruning process. These should be removed from the dehydrator. After this, start checking on the plums ever 2 hours, as they're getting close to being done. Plums will take roughly 14 hours to fully dehydrate. However, they may take longer or shorter depending on the quality of the plums. This is why it's important to check your plums regularly during the dehydrating process. When fully dehydrated, you will have black, wrinkled, raisin-like prunes.


Cut your plums and remove the pits. Place the plums directly on the oven rack. Set the plums in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Check the plums every few hours. Heat your prunes for around 8 hours.

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Slice the plums in half around the pit, working with a small, sharp knife. Pull the halves apart, remove the pit, and discard the pit. Make sure you work with a knife small enough to handle. A large knife is not appropriate for cutting plums. Do not use a baking pan to make prunes in the oven. A lot of juices will leak from the plums during the drying process. If plums are on a baking pan, they will stick to this surface. Instead, use an oven rack. Make sure to space the plums evenly on the oven rack. If the plums are touching, this may affect the dehydration process. As the process can make a mess on the bottom of your oven, consider setting something down to catch the drippings. Some people find success laying a single sheet of foil on the bottom of the oven. However, the foil may melt and it does not work for gas ovens. You could try lining a baking tray with foil and setting that under the plums. You should set the oven as low as possible. For most ovens, that is 200 degrees Fahrenheit. If your oven is different, simply set the oven to the lowest possible temperature. Make sure to place the oven rack in the oven slowly. You do not want to knock the plums around. You should flip the plums every few hours so they dry out evenly. You should also check on how the dehydration process is coming along. You want your prunes to be slightly soft and juicy, while also being dry to the point of having a wrinkled, dark appearance. This also depends on personal preference. Some people prefer prunes slightly dryer while some prefer them juicier. Do not remove the prunes until they're at your desired state. While most prunes will be ready at this point, vigilant checking is important. Some prunes will be ready sooner than 8 hours, and some will need a little more time. The prunes will probably be ready at slightly different rates. Remove them as needed.


Cut your ribbon to the desired length and pull out one of the wires. Knot one end of the other wire that's still inside the ribbon. Gather the ribbon on the wire. Curl the ribbon into a spiral. Poke the wire down through the middle of the flower. Thread the wire through the bottom edge of the flower. Tie the wire, if needed, then cut it.

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Cut the ribbon first, then scrunch down one of the ends until a wire pops out. Grab the wire and pull it out. Leave the other wire inside the ribbon.  Discard the wire you pulled out or save it for another project. For 1 to 2-inch (2.54 to 5.08-centimeter) wide ribbon, plan on using 1 yard (91.44 centimeters) of ribbon. If your ribbon is thinner, you could try using less. Scrunch down one of the ends of the ribbon until the wire pops out. Gently tug out the wire, then tie it into a looped knot. This will help prevent the ribbon from sliding off in the next step. Go to the other end of the ribbon. Scrunch it down until the wire pops out. Grab the wire, and gather the ribbon down it, towards the knotted end. Keep gathering the ribbon until it is all scrunched down above the knotted end. Starting from the end with the long piece of wire, roll the ribbon into a cone-shaped spiral. The scrunched, wired side of the ribbon will make the bottom/center of the flower. The other side of the ribbon will make the petals. Hold the flower in one hand so that it doesn't unravel. Use your other hand to take the long piece of wire, and push it back down through the center of the flower. This will help hold the flower together and flatten it. Poke the wire through the bottom edge of the flower until it comes out the side. Give it a gentle tug, then thread it back through the flower. If the flower is still loose, tie the long tie to the knotted end of the wire. Cut the wire down using a sharp pair of scissors or wire cutters.


Cut your tracks to size with a hacksaw if needed. Position the top track on the top of your closet opening. Use a drill to screw the track into place. Position the bottom track on the floor of your closet opening. Screw the bottom track into place.

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First, subtract 1–2 millimetres (0.039–0.079 in) from the width of your closet opening using the measurement you took earlier. Then, cut the top and bottom tracks to that length. Mark where you need to cut the tracks with pencil and then carefully saw along the line with the hacksaw. When you’re finished, position the tracks in your closet opening to see if they fit. If they’re still to big, measure the width of the closet opening again and cut more of the tracks off. The top of the track should be facing down toward the floor. You may want to have someone help you hold the track in place. Locate the screw holes along the track. Then, drill the screws that came with the sliding door set into these holes. Make sure you screw them in all the way so the track is secure. To line the bottom track up with the top track, measure the distance between the side of the top track and the front edge of your closet opening. Then, position the bottom track so there's an equal amount of distance between the side of it and the front edge of the closet opening. Just like you did with the top track, drill the screws that came with the set into the screw holes along the bottom track. When you're finished, the top and bottom track should be securely in place and lined up with each other. If you’re floor is made out of concrete or tile, you’ll need to glue the bottom track down instead of using screws.


Cut yuccas when they outgrow their pot or to replant in smaller pots. Prune the yucca trees in the spring just before their growth period. Remove tall yucca plants from their containers. Locate the halfway mark on the tree and remove the bottom leaves. Cut the trunk at your halfway mark using a hand saw or sharp blade. Leave both yucca halves in the sun for 1-3 hours before replanting.

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You can cut the plant into 2 separate sections and replant both of them. The plants will sprout and grow new leaves starting from the cut point.  You can tell your plant has outgrown its pot when the root is not far from the outer edge of your pot. You can also transplant the plant into a larger pot if you don't want to cut it. You essentially get an additional plant for free if you cut them and replant both! Yucca plants will flower in the springtime. It is best to prune them in early spring, right before they flower.  Pruning the trees helps promote and control their growth. Pick which plants you want to prune, based on height and size. You can do this for 1 plant or a few. Grasp the tree’s trunk, and pull it out of the container firmly. Look at the tree and make a mental note of a spot mid-way between the tree’s trunk and the first leaf cluster. This is your halfway mark. To make it easier to cut your trunk, rip off the leaves or cut them with a sharp blade.. The halfway mark can be a rough estimate rather than an exact measurement. Use a pair of scissors or a sharp knife to cut small trees (about 1–7 in (2.5–17.8 cm) in diameter), or use a hand saw to slice large trunks (about 10 in (25 cm) or larger in diameter). Push your tool into the yucca’s trunk with consistent, steady pressure. Your trunk will easily slice in half with a moderate amount of force. You can replant both sections of your tree after you trim it, but first place your trimmed trunks in a sunny, airy spot outside. Your trunk will better take to the soil if you leave it in the open air for a few hours. Set the halves on the sidewalk, in the grass, or on a table.


Cutting your lumber. Drill holes for rebar. Install boards. Fill in the land side. Maintaining your seawall.

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Now you will measure and cut your boards. Your wooden boards are 10’ (3.04m) long. You will 2 of these to fill each (approximately) 2 x 8’ (60.96 x 243.8cm) space between each set of poles.  You metal poles are all 4’ (1.21m) long, with half of each buried in the ground. It will require 2 - 2’ x12” (5.08 x 2.54cm) boards to fill this space. Use a circular saw to cut these boards (originally 10’/3.04m long) to the proper length (approximately 8’/2.43m). Even though you set your poles 8’ (2.43m) apart, it is important to measure each space and each board individually before cutting. Changes in the shoreline can cause discrepancies. Now you will line up each board with each set of poles and mark the locations where you will drill holes for the rebar to pass through. Each board will have 2 holes drilled on either side. Once again, be sure to specifically measure each board to each piece of rebar before you drill. Fit the boards onto the poles by sliding each piece of rebar into the hole that has been drilled for it. This is not so easy, and will require at least 2 people. Install your lumber so that it is flush with the post. Then twist a nut and washer onto each piece of rebar to secure it.  You may need to bend or reposition the rebar in order to make it fit through the holes in your lumber. You can accomplish this by sliding a 2-foot piece of hollow conduit over each piece of rebar, using it to bend the rebar to fit. At the end of the project, you may want to remove excess rebar with a reciprocating saw. Fill in the land side of your seawall with rocks and large gravel, to allow for adequate drainage. Cover these rocks with sand, and finally finish with a layer of topsoil. It is an excellent idea to provide annual maintenance to your existing seawall. Look for broken, cracked, or rotten boards. Remove the nuts, remove the boards, and replace them with fresh wood. Your metal posts should remain in tact for 5 or more years. If they become loose, they may need to be replaced as well.


Czech - Vítej (informal) or Vítejte (formal). Danish - Velkommen. Dutch - Welkom. French - Bienvenue. German - Willkommen. Greek - Καλώς ορίσατε (Kalōs orisate, formal), Καλώς Όρισες (Kalós órises, informal). Bosnian - Dobrodošli  Italian - Benvenuto. Portuguese - Bem Vindo. Spanish - Bienvenido. Swedish - Välkommen  Norwegian - Velkommen. Frisian - Wolkom. Maldivian (Divehi) - Kale ah maruhabaa.

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There are a ton of welcoming lines in Czech, but these are the two easiest ones to use. The other seven or so options are for specific cases, but these two will work almost anywhere.  Vítej -- "Vee-tai" Vítejte -- "Vee-tai-ta" Simple and easy, it is the sort of thing that sounds just like an English "welcome." However, turn the W to a V and add the word "men" to the end. "Vel-koh-men." Almost exactly like the English version, but with a little harder final syllable. It sounds a bit like "comb." Wel-comb. Simple and easy, it literally means "Good to see you." When saying the final "U" sound, try to pucker your lips a bit. To learn how, say an "EEEE" sound, then move your lips into a U shape. This "e-ooo" is the French U. "Bee-ehn-ven-oo. Like the Danish (the are related languages), this is similar to the English version. However, you again want to sound out the W more like a V. Another language with multiple, difficult versions, these two will get you started in any circumstance. Note that, while there is an "sh" sound, you want to keep it subtle, almost burying it in the rest of the word.  Καλώς Ορίσατε -- "Kah-losh o-rees-a-teh" Καλώς Όρισες -- "Kah-losh o-reese-is"  Similar to the French version, but easier to pronounce. If you're speaking to a woman, replace the final "O" with an "A." "Ben-ven-oo-to." Again, replace the "O" with an "A" if speaking to a female. Note that these are two separate words. Beem Veen-doh Almost identical to the French and Portugese, as they come from similar linguistic roots (Latin). "Bee-ehn-ven-ee-doh."  Put it in the box with Dutch, German, and the others. Keep it simple and replace the W with a V, and add the "men" to the normal English "welcome!" "Vel-koh-men." This is the closest "living" relative of English. It makes speaking super easy -- so just match it close to the normal "Welcome," but use a longer O sound at the end (like in the word "comb." "Wel-comb" Another tricky one -- but you have this! Kale is just like vegetable, but with an "A" sound at the end. The rest...


Dab a little spit on the nib to lubricate the ball. Try acetone if alcohol doesn’t work.

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This may sound gross, but spit can act as a lubricant or gentle solvent to help unclog the tip of your pen. If you’re hesitant to actually lick the nib of your pen, put a little spit on your fingertip or a napkin and dip the pen tip in that. Then, scribble on a piece of paper to see if you can get the ink flowing. Ballpoint pen ink is generally not considered toxic, so don’t worry about getting sick from licking the pen. Any mildly toxic components, such as glycols, are present in such small amounts that they won’t cause any harm. Acetone is a more aggressive solvent that might unclog your pen if alcohol isn’t strong enough. Dip the nib of your pen in a little bit of acetone-based nail polish remover and see if that does the trick. Acetone releases harsh fumes, so always use it in a well-ventilated area. Try to dip only the very tip of the pen in the acetone, since acetone can damage many types of plastic.


Dab a little tea tree oil on the affected area. Try honey on your whiteheads. Apply heat only as a last resort. Stay away from lemon juice, vinegar, and other kitchen acids. Keep your skin hydrated by drinking plenty of fluids. Alter your diet if you notice certain foods cause acne flareups.

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Tea tree oil is a natural essential oil that may be effective for combating whiteheads and acne. To use the oil, dilute it to about 5% in a carrier oil (any vegetable oil), then apply directly onto the whiteheads using a q-tip.  Use tea tree oil with caution and always do a patch test first, as it can cause irritation or an allergic reaction. Don't let the word "oil" put you off -- tea tree oil will not clog your pores like other oils. Honey is known to have antimicrobial properties that may effectively treat whiteheads and acne. Dab a little honey directly onto whiteheads or you can apply it all over as a face mask. Many people consider manuka honey or raw honey the most effective options, although this is not guaranteed. Many people hold their face over steam or apply a hot compress to open up pores, allowing trapped materials to escape. This can help in some mild cases. However, heat can irritate sensitive skin, which can make the acne worse. Gentle, lukewarm showers and facial washes are usually more effective. Acidic foods are not intended for use on skin. They can cause stinging, peeling, or even serious damage if left on for too long. Lemon juice and other citrus ingredients are extra dangerous, as they can react with sunlight to cause severe rashes. Dehydrated skin may produce excess oil to make up for the lack of moisture, and this may lead to worse acne. If your skin feels dry or your lips are cracked, you may be dehydrated. Water is a great place to start, but milk, tea, juices, and soups all count toward your daily fluid intake. In general, follow these guidelines:  Men should drink about 15.5 cups (3.7 liters) of fluids daily. Women should drink about 11.5 cups (2.7 liters) of fluids daily. Despite popular belief, there's no evidence that greasy food causes acne in most people, though there is a strong correlation between the two. If you notice a possible connection between a particular food and acne, it won't hurt to avoid it. Just remember, there is no universal "acne diet," and an extreme...


Dab at a fresh stain with a makeup remover wipe. Pick up powdered highlighters with clear tape. Pat at liquid makeup with dishwashing soap and water. Apply a dollop of shaving cream for an older stain. Pre-treat the stain and wash as you normally would.

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If you're getting ready, this trick may save you if the stain is fresh. As soon as you see it happen, grab a wipe and dab gently at the stain until it comes up. Don't rub too hard, as you could push the makeup into the fabric. Apply a piece of tape over the area with the sticky side down. Once it's adhered, lift the tape up to remove the color. Use a clean piece of tape to try a second time if you don't get it all up the first time. If any makeup is left behind, rub at it with a clean, dry sponge. Mix a few drops of dishwashing soap into a cup of water. Dip a clean rag or sponge into the mixture and apply it to the stain. Dab at it until the stain comes up. Squirt the shaving cream on the stain; use enough to cover the stain completely. Leave it on for 10 minutes and then wipe the shaving cream away with a clean cloth dipped in cool water. The stain should be gone. If it doesn't work, try the shaving cream again or move on to a different method. Apply a spray stain remover to the area or simply pour a little detergent directly on the stain. Let it sink in for a few minutes and then wash the garment as you normally would. Check it when it comes out of the wash before drying it. If the stain isn't gone, try another stain removal technique before putting it in the dryer, which may set the stain. Alternatively, rub the area with a little bar soap.


Dab concealer underneath your eyes. Wear fake eyelashes.

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Concealer is a base foundation that can offset the color of a dark circle under your eye. Choose a color of concealer that has opposite tones of color from the tones that are in your dark circles. Use a color wheel to determine what colors are the opposite of the ones you want to conceal. For example, if your dark circles have yellow tones, use a concealer with a purple tone. This will help neutralize the dark color under your eyes. Alternately, you can choose a concealer that is one skin tone lighter than your own skin tone. Gently dab the concealer under your eyes and tap at it with your finger, blending it across the skin under your eyes to make sure it is not noticeable. If you aren't able to buy concealer you can make your own by mixing equal parts of lotion and a powder that suits your skin colour then apply it. If your eyelashes are short or you would like an especially dramatic look, attach fake eyelashes. Also known as “falsies,” these are available in various lengths, colors and textures, and can transform your eyes into something spectacular. Try different types to see how they look with your eyes.


Dab cornstarch into each of the molds with a small paintbrush. Break off a piece of fondant that’s about the same size as your mold. Press the piece of fondant into the mold, filling it completely. Shave off any extra fondant from the mold using a knife. Place the filled molds in the freezer for 20 minutes. Remove the molds from the freezer and pop the flowers out of the mold. Let the flowers dry for at least 24 hours.

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The cornstarch will prevent the fondant from sticking to the mold. Use a brand new paintbrush that hasn’t been used before, so there aren’t any harmful paint chemicals on it.  Be sure to coat every little crevice in the mold. If there’s a lot of excess cornstarch in the mold, flip it over and tap it gently to remove the extra powder. If you’re using a very small flower mold, you’ll need a smaller piece. Don’t worry if it’s not exact; you just need enough fondant to at least fill the mold. If you want, you can roll the fondant out into the size of your mold. It may make it easier to press the fondant evenly into the mold later on, but it isn’t necessary. Use your fingers to firmly push down on the fondant, making sure you get it into every nook and cranny. It’s okay if your fondant spills out over the mold. It’s better to overfill it than underfill it. If your piece of fondant doesn’t fill the entire mold, break off more fondant and press it on top of the original piece. Use a sawing motion to work the knife carefully along the top of the mold, pulling away the excess fondant with your fingers as you go. This should smooth out the fondant inside the mold.  If you don’t flatten the top of the mold (which will be the bottom of the flower), you’ll have trouble sticking the finished flower to a cake or cupcake. You can use an icing spatula instead of a knife. This hardens the fondant so that it’s easier to remove from the molds. Set the flowers on a shelf where they’ll sit flat and won’t be disturbed. Set a kitchen timer or use the clock app on your phone to keep track of the time. They should come out easily. Work quickly so that the flowers don’t warm up in the molds, making it more difficult to get them out cleanly.  Be careful with the flowers when you’re removing them. They aren’t completely dry yet, so too much force could alter their shape. If the fondant won’t come out of the mold, leave it in for a little longer before trying again. Set the flowers in a room temperature spot to harden. If it’s too warm,...


Dab just a little of the frosting color onto the tool you're using. Stroke the color across the fondant surface. Roll the fondant with your fingertips. For an even, complete colored effect, knead or roll until the coloring has spread throughout the whole fondant.

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Use something small and pointed, such as a clean artists brush or a toothpick. Draw it across the surface as far as it will go. Avoid digging into the fondant. This can introduce unwanted pockets of air, which can leave bubbles in the fondant. Keep rolling until the color has been evenly distributed.  For a marbled effect, stop when the surface looks streaked or striped.     If you want your fondant darker, just add more color. It's best to start with a little, and increase if needed.


Dab the dent with water. Place a damp paper towel or piece of cloth over the dent. Give the water time to soak into the wood.

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Pour about an ounce of water over the affected area, just enough to cover the dent and a small part of the surrounding wood. Make sure the dent is completely wet. Pooling inside the depression itself is a good sign that the spot has been thoroughly soaked.  Using an eyedropper or kitchen baster will give you more control over where you apply the water. If there’s any serious breakage or chipping around the dent, you may need to have the surface repaired professionally to avoid making it worse. Wet the cloth or paper towel and wring out the excess water, then lay it directly on top of the dent. This will provide a little added moisture while also creating a buffer that will help protect the wood from being damaged by the heat of the iron.  It may be a good idea to use an old t-shirt, dusting rag or some other piece of fabric that you don’t care about potentially ruining. If the dent is located on the side or corner of a piece of furniture, you might need to hold the cloth in place with your free hand while you steam the wood. Let the wood sit for a minute or two to absorb as much moisture as possible. As the water seeps into the wood, it will cause it to soften and become pliable. Once you apply heat to the spot, the wood will expand and the dent will lift right out. The deeper the water penetrates into the wood, the more effective the steaming process will be.


Dab the stain with 3 percent strength hydrogen peroxide. Dilute bleach in cold water for deep-set or organic stains. Scrub scouring powder into liquid floor stains to lift them. Mix borax and water to remove stains from floor tiles. Buy marble poultice for your marble tiles if other cleaning methods don't work.

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Hydrogen peroxide is a powerful cleaning chemical, even when diluted, so only use small dabs of the solution to clean away the stain. It is slightly corrosive, so wash the surface thoroughly with tap water as soon as the stain has disappeared.  If your stain is particularly hard to remove, lay a rag soaked with hydrogen peroxide over the stain. Let it set for 1-2 hours. Then, remove the rag and proceed with scrubbing the stain. Before you use this technique to clean a stain in a visible area, try it out in an inconspicuous spot to make sure it won't damage your tiles. Hydrogen peroxide is particularly effective for cleaning coffee stains, nail polish, and blood stains on ceramic or finished tile. Hydrogen peroxide is a bleach-like chemical, so before you use any other cleaning sprays or solutions in the kitchen, wipe down the tiles thoroughly with water to remove any remnants. Pour a cap of bleach into a 1 gallon (3.8 L) bucket of cold water and mix it. Then, use a white cloth to dab and scrub away the stain. If the solution doesn't prove to be strong enough, add another cap full and try again, but be careful of how much you add as bleach is incredibly bad to get on anything except stains.  Bleach is especially effective with ink, coffee, juice, and blood stains — basically anything that has a hard time being cleaned normally will be wiped away by bleach.  Bleach is infamous for reacting with other cleaning solutions, especially ammonia-based solutions. Be absolutely certain that the bleach has been washed away, and let the area dry for a few hours before you use any other cleaning solutions near the tiles. Wet the stain slightly with water, then sprinkle enough scouring powder onto the floor tile stain to completely cover it. Mix it gently with the water and let the paste sit for a few minutes to react. Then, wipe the stain with an abrasive sponge or a rag.  Scouring powder is effective at cleaning common floor stains such as grease stains, food stains, and water marks. If you need to try another stain...


Dab the stain with water. Create a dishwashing detergent solution. Apply the detergent solution to the stain. Place folded paper towel on top of the detergent solution. Change the paper towel as it absorbs the stain. Apply rubbing alcohol to the stain. Change out the paper towel. Soak the fabric in water and baking soda, then wash.

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If you are trying to remove a perfume stain from cotton, linen, nylon, polyester, spandex or wool, first pat at the stain with a dampened sponge or cloth. Make sure not to rub the stain; instead, use a light hand and dab with patting movements, starting from the center of the stain and working out. Dabbing at the stain works especially well for fresh stains, because moistening the stain prevents it from spreading and setting in the fabric. If the stain is fresh, dabbing at the stain may be enough to absorb and remove the stain. If the perfume stain you are removing isn’t fresh, just dabbing at it may not be enough. To more aggressively combat the stain, create a solution that is one part glycerin, one part dishwashing detergent and 8 parts water.  If you just have a small stain, use one teaspoon or tablespoon of glycerin and dishwashing detergent and 8 teaspoons or tablespoons of water. Stir the detergent solution to mix thoroughly. After you have mixed together your detergent solution, pour a small amount onto the stain. Make sure to only apply the solution to the stain, not to the surrounding area. Once you have applied the detergent solution, fold up a sheet of paper towel and place it on top of the stain. Then let the detergent work on the fabric for about ten minutes. As the detergent solution works to lift up the stain, the paper towel will absorb the stain out of the fabric. After about ten minutes, check on the paper towel. If you see that some of the oily stain has transferred to the paper towel, swap the paper towel out for another folded sheet. Keep repeating this process until no more stain gets lifted.  If you notice that the area of the stain is drying, add more detergent solution. If none of the stain seems to have been removed, keep the original paper towel there and keep checking until some of the stain has been absorbed. If you still notice stain remnant after using the detergent solution lifting process, dip a cotton ball in rubbing solution and dab the rubbing alcohol over the stain. Then...


Dampen a clean rag with soapy water. Wipe down the countertop using the rag to clean it. Use a disinfectant if the countertop is especially dirty. Dry the countertop using a clean towel.

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Turn on warm water and place a clean, soft rag under the stream to dampen it. Pour a couple drops of soap onto the rag and massage the soap into the cloth to distribute it evenly. Use a dish soap if possible. Use the rag to gently rub the entire countertop down with soapy water, paying special attention to the area with the scratch. Work the rag down into the scratch, wiping it in small circles and applying pressure, to make sure it’s clean. Cleaning any dirt or grease off of the countertop is important because the wax or filler won't bond well to the counter if it isn't clean. If your countertop hasn’t been cleaned recently or shows spots of dirt, spray it with a household disinfecting spray and wipe the entire counter with a clean rag. Wipe down the spot with the scratch a couple times to make sure the crevice is definitely clean. Avoid using harsh cleaning products that have acid in them on your laminate, as well as abrasive cleaning tools like steel wool. Wipe up excess moisture, soap, or disinfectant using a clean towel. It’s important that the countertop be completely dry before using polish or filler on it. Alternatively, let the countertop air dry for a couple minutes.


Dampen a paper towel or clean cloth. Use a mild soap to create a lather with the cloth. Rub the leather gloves with the sudsy cloth gently. Use a clean, damp cloth to remove the soap and dirt. Repeat the process if dirt still remains on the gloves.

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A soft microfiber washcloth works well, but a clean paper towel will also work. Place the cloth or paper towel under clean running water to get it wet and then gently wring it out to remove excess water. The cloth or paper towel should be damp but not dripping. You can purchase a soap specifically designed for leather, or you can use the mildest soap you have in your home. Put some soap on the cloth and rub it together, creating a lather on the cloth.  For example, saddle soap is a good option for your leather gloves as it cleans the leather while also protecting it. You can purchase a soap like this at a big box store or online. Try to work the soap into the leather using the cloth, rubbing very gently so as not to ruin the exterior. Pay special attention to the dirty areas of each of your gloves. It may be easier if you put on one of your gloves and clean it with the cloth using the other hand. Dampen another cloth or paper towel just as you did with the first one, wringing it out so that it’s not dripping. Use this to gently remove the dirt and soap from the gloves with repeated rubbing motions. Make sure you get all of the soap off of each of your gloves. If you notice that there are still some dirt spots on one or both of your gloves, use a sudsy cloth to rub the dirt away gently. Use another clean damp cloth to remove the soap again.


Dance to music. Do a home workout or yoga. Go for a walk or run.

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Turn up some of your favorite music on the stereo and dance along to it for a fun activity that will get you smiling and get your heart pumping for a good workout.  Try learning some new dance moves from videos on the internet. You can even try out a classic popular dance move like the Moonwalk, Running Man, or the Electric Slide.  Try a zumba video or program for a fun activity that combines dance and a physical workout. Sing along to the music, too! Challenge yourself to learn all the words to a song, or all the dance moves in a music video. Find free workout and yoga videos online to follow along with, or make up your own routine. Jump on the treadmill or other home workout equipment if you have it and listen to music or watch TV while you do.  You can also rent workout DVDs from your local library for free. Try exercises like squats, arm circles, or a plank for something that doesn’t take up a lot of space or require a lot of movement in the home.  Even if you have to be stationary for most of the day, challenge yourself to get up every hour or half hour to do a simple stretch or a few jumping jacks. If you can leave the house, go out for a quick walk or run, even if it is only a few laps around your own house to get your heart pumping and enjoy the fresh air and sunshine.  Try identifying a flower you don’t know the name of, or making a point to notice five new things around your home or yard that you’ve never noticed before. You can also do simple workouts in your driveway or sidewalk, like skipping rope or playing hopscotch. If you can’t go outside but still want to run, try running up and down a flight of stairs in your home for a good workout. Just make sure you are wearing shoes with good traction and make any other precautions necessary to avoid slipping or falling.


Dance. Go ice skating. Play tennis. Try any activity where the equipment requires you to hold her from behind.

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Any kind of partner dancing, such as salsa, tango or swing can be a good way to break the touch barrier. Keep in mind, however, that just because she seems to be having a good time dancing with you doesn't necessarily mean she likes you off the dance floor. It's certainly a start though. Ice skating is a great activity for casual physical contact. You can hold her hand to help keep her from falling if she isn't quite getting the hang of it, or to help each other skate backwards. In the cold environment, you may also have the opportunity to help her keep warm with a hug or encircling her with your jacket. Have her as your doubles partner. There will be plenty of opportunities to high-five and playfully touch her after a good shot. At the end, you can also touch her back or shoulders and say it was a great game. Just remember that she'll be conscious of sweating a little bit and may not want to be touched so much during or after the game. For example, riding tandem on a motorcycle, sitting on an inner tube or sled going down a snow hill, parachute jumping in tandem, etc. Go mini-golfing together if you know how to hold a golf club. There are plenty of sporting opportunities for this closeness to be imposed on both of you!


Date someone who is in your life now. Date Stay single for a while.

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It can sometimes help to fill that hole that your celebrity crush left by dating someone else. Relationships with a real person are more fulfilling than imaginary ones. It can help if you already have a solid friendship, too! Don’t rush into a relationship to try to replace your crush. Take it slowly, and realize that real relationships can be both more complicated and rewarding than imagined ones. a new person. Strike up a conversation with someone you think is cute, and keep it going by maintaining a positive attitude. Use your body language to let them know you’re interested, like standing a little closer and making eye contact. When you feel like you want to ask them out, suggest an activity that you think they might like to do, like getting some ice cream or going to a sports game. It’s okay to take a break from dating and work on your own goals. Spending some time “alone” (that is, surrounded by friends and family) can even help you gain some perspective on what you need out of your next relationship.


Date the letter. Include your mailing address in the top right corner. Type the principal’s address. Create a short subject line that makes the leave request obvious. Use a respectful, formal salutation to open your letter. Make the letter succinct. Use a formal valediction. Hand sign your name. Deliver the letter and application with notice, if possible.

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Left justify the date and type it at the top of the page. Write the date out fully rather than abbreviating it with slashes and numerals. For example: “September 2, 2017.” One space down from the date and justified right, write your full name and return address so the recipient knows where to contact you, if necessary. Place your name on one line, and the address spaced as normal on the two following lines.  For example: “Ms. Violet Jones 25 Maxine Street Chicago, IL 60661.” It can be helpful to include a phone number or email address where you can be reached. If you are a parent writing on behalf of a younger student, write your name rather than the student’s name. Once space down and justified left, type your principal’s name and mailing address. Include their formal title, name, the school, and the school’s mailing address.  If you are at a university rather than a middle or high school, ask the registrar to whom your letter should be address. It will likely be an administrator or department head rather than the school president. For example: “Principal David Smith George Washington High School 800 River Road Cleveland, Ohio 44106” Write, “Subject:” and then briefly describe the reason for the letter in less than 8 words. For example, “Subject: School Leave Request for Violet Jones.” Space your salutation one line down from the subject. Address your principal or recipient with a title that confers respect and deference. Set the salutation off with a comma. “Madam Headmistress,” or “Respected Sir,” for example. Limit your paragraphs to 5 sentences and aim for no more than 2 paragraphs. The goal is to be fact-based and direct. Close your letter with a formal sign off spaced a line down from the body of your letter, such as “Sincerely.” Set this off with a comma. At the letter’s close, sign your name in blue or black ink. This is a nice personal touch rather than typing it. Hand-deliver your letter to the appropriate office as far in advance as possible. If you are too ill or there is no time to give notice,...


Date the material. Look at joints. Analyze surface patterns. Inspect exterior building materials. Investigate interior panels. Check appliances and finishing materials. Assess the location.

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Check the manufacturer and product name on the insulation label and do a web search to find out if it contains asbestos. The date of the building or material can also tell you a lot about asbestos risk. Buildings made between the 1940s and the 1980s are very likely to have used asbestos materials. Even still, asbestos was phased out in the 1980s, so some buildings built during that time could have still used asbestos materials. If the building was built after 1995, it almost certainly utilized no asbestos materials. On the outside of buildings, asbestos sheets were often joined together with aluminum runners. These runners were held on by small nails with no point at the end. On the inside, asbestos sheets were held together with plastic or wooden runners in the same way. This design could be a sign that the structure was built using asbestos materials. You should also inspect any adhesives used to join two materials together, as they often contain asbestos. Asbestos materials often have a pattern on the surface that looks like small dimples or shallow craters covering the surface. Later materials have a smoother texture. While this is not a foolproof identification, seeing a dimpled pattern on the surface warrants taking asbestos precautions. Asbestos was used to make several exterior materials. Roofing and siding shingles are among the most common materials to contain asbestos, and will readily release fibers into the air if broken. Asbestos was also put into cement used on the exterior of buildings to help insulate the.  Most older cement board products contain asbestos. This type of material looks like a thin piece of concrete with fibers running through it and was frequently used as siding, corrugated roofing, and soffit material. Floors, walls, and ceilings were often made with asbestos containing materials. Watch for an oily appearance to floor tiles, which indicates that they are made from asbestos bound with asphalt. Vinyl tiles and decorative wall plasters commonly contain asbestos.  Blow-in...


Date your partner. Communicate effectively. Write a list of what you love about your partner. Evaluate your relationship. Consider an alternative relationship. Get help if necessary.

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Instead of thinking of the sexual or romantic things you could be doing with someone else, do those things with your partner.  Surprise them with a gift or a picnic.  Take them back to the spot where you first met them.  Plan a mini vacation for just the two of you.  If you invest in your own relationship, you will be less likely to wander. When there is a problem, talk to your partner about it.  Listen to their opinions, without interruption. Try to have as few unresolved issues between the two of you as possible. Avoid yelling or cursing at your partner. Take a moment to reflect on why you fell in love with them in the first place.  Write down everything you like about them, from the freckle below their left eye to their kind heart. Celebrate them for the things you love about them rather than finding these attributes in others. You might even consider sharing this list with your spouse. Oftentimes, your partner probably makes you very happy; however, the idea that grass might be greener on the other side can poison even the best of relationships.  Begin keeping a journal documenting your days, and the status of your relationship with your partner.  Write down any arguments you had or times when they were kind to you.  Think about what you would be missing if your relationship ended due to cheating. Make your decision about your current relationship first before getting involved with anyone else. At the end of the day, some people are just not meant for monogamy.  This does not mean that you should cheat, but that you should instead be honest with your partner.  They might be feeling the same way and perhaps you two could have an open relationship, instead.   Or perhaps, it is time to move on so your partner can find someone whose views on relationships are more in line with their own. If you have always had a problem with cheating on your partners in the past and you desire to turn over a new leaf, seek professional help.  It is unfair to continue entering into romantic relationships with people if you...


De-clutter the room. Wash all bedding and clothing at high temperatures, and store them in plastic bags or bins to prevent re-infestation. Place everything you washed into plastic bins with tight fitting lids the instant you take them out of the dryer. Vacuum everything several times a week. Dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag properly. Consider using a steam cleaner. Don't keep items that you can't salvage.

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Get rid of anything you no longer want or need. Put them in plastic bags, and throw them away. This will make it easier to tackle your bed bug problem. If you need to move something out of an infested room temporarily, put it into a plastic bin with a tight fitting lid first. If something cannot be laundered, see if you can take it to a dry cleaner instead. You can also sanitize it by putting it into the dryer for at 15 minutes on a high heat setting.  Depending on how severe your infestation is, you may need to wash everything once or twice a week for several months—even after the bed bugs are gone. Don't forget to clean the laundry area with a sanitizing cleaner once you are done. This also includes soft toys. Be sure to put them inside a pillowcase when washing them, so that you don't damage their fur. You can also use plastic, zippered or resealable bags instead. Whatever container you choose to use, you must keep it closed whenever you are not handling the things inside. This will prevent the newly-cleaned items from getting re-infested. Store these bins away from the infested room. This includes anything made out of fibers, such as box springs, carpets, curtains, mattresses, and upholstered items. It also includes "hard" items, such as furniture, hardwood floors, baseboards, and anything else with nooks and crannies. Take the bag out of the vacuum cleaner and put it into a plastic bag. Tie the plastic bag up tightly, and throw it away immediately outside your house. Do not leave the bag inside your house, or you may get another infestation. It is important that you use one which reaches at least 200°F (93.4°C) and which produces dry steam. The "dry steam" is important because you don't want everything left soaking wet, which can lead to mold and mildew. If something is beyond saving, get rid of it. Rip off the covers of upholstered furniture. Mark infested pieces clearly with "Infested with Bed Bugs" or "Bed Bugs" signs. Make arrangements with your city to have these items disposed of as soon as...


De-clutter your mind. Break work into smaller chunks. Skip the pressure to begin. Make yourself work for five minutes straight. Try a reward system. Take advantage of your better days. Just get there. Work on saying "no.

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When your mind is buzzing with all the different things you need to do in a day, it's harder to get things done. To help you focus, take the time to write or type out a physical list for the day. That way, you're not trying to keep them all in your head at once. Plus a list can help you see just how much you've done in a day, which can motivate you. When you're depressed, even small tasks can seem monumental; therefore, it's best to try to view tasks in smaller chunks, so that you can accomplish things piece by piece. Instead of thinking, "I need to send 500 emails today," think "I have one email to send in the next five minutes. I can do that."  Making tasks smaller makes it seem easier to do them. If it doesn't seem to be working, try even smaller chunks. You could say, "I just need to get through this one sentence. That's it." Sometimes, trying to figure out how to begin a task is the hardest part. Maybe you can't find the words you need to start a report, for instance. The key is to just start somewhere. You don't have to start at the "beginning." You just need to get started.  Once you have some work done, you'll find it easier to go back and work through the beginning. Also, you won't be paralyzed with indecision about how to "start." It can be tempting to give in to procrastination when you're feeling depressed. You have a tendency to get distracted, for instance, or you have a desire to get up and do something else; however, just promising yourself you'll work for a set amount of time can help get you started.  Cut out distractions. Don't go anywhere else on the internet than what you need for work. Don't go talk to a friend. Just sit down and pay attention only to your work. Remind yourself you can't do anything else. Even if you don't work, don't allow  yourself to do something more interesting. If you're in a more active job, try to cut distractions like talking to co-workers and just focus on the task at hand. Set a timer if you need to. Set it for five minutes, then give yourself a short break...


De-thatch the lawn to minimize shade and create more air circulation. Make sure that there is enough air circulation by aerating your lawn.

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Manually go over the lawn with a convex rake. Use a power rake. You can rent it from some hardware or home improvement stores. Once you are done power raking your lawn, you will need to use a regular rake to sweep up the debris. If you have cool-season grasses, de-thatch the lawn between late summer and early fall. If you have warm-season grasses, de-thatch in late spring. Not enough air circulation will lead to moisture being trapped—and where there is excess moisture, there will be mushrooms. Get an aerator from a home improvement or hardware store, and go over your lawn with it. The aerator will pull out plugs of earth out of your lawn. This will help loosen the soil and let more air in. Consider aerating the ground with an aerator to prevent the mushrooms from sitting in a stale, moist environment.


Deactivate your social media accounts. Remove social media apps from your tablet or smartphone. Block social media websites in your browser. Change your routines to avoid social media.

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You may find it easier to stop using social media if you deactivate or get rid of your accounts altogether. Most social media sites allow you to deactivate your account rather than delete it completely in case you want to come back.  Delete an Instagram Account Delete a Twitter Account Deactivate a Facebook Account Delete a YouTube Account Delete a LinkedIn Account Every time you go onto your phone and see the Facebook app, you risk temptation. Deleting these apps makes it easier to stay off social media and focus on what matters most to you. If you're finding it hard to avoid clicking to social media websites, download a browser extension like StayFocusd to block the sites.  If this seems like an extreme step, only go halfway. Block these sites only on your primary web browser, so you can still access them elsewhere. If you prefer, you can choose to limit your time spent on certain websites rather than block them completely. If you need to, you can also block these sites on your iPhone. Some people check their social media accounts as soon as they wake up in the morning, during breaks at work or school and while they are falling asleep. Think about when you tend to look at social media, and then find another activity to fill that time.  While you eat meals, try to focus on the food. Think about the taste and texture. If you’re eating with others, talk to them instead of looking at your phone. When you feel like having a conversation with someone, do it in person. If nobody is around, try going to a café or other busy location where people may be available to chat. Keep your phone far away from you at night. Not only will this prevent you from using social media, you may fall asleep easier.


Deaden the trampoline. Do some warm-up back handsprings on the floor. Practice some high tucks on the floor. Attempt a standing back tuck on the floor. Work with your spotter.

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Think about putting a mat on the trampoline to make it somewhere between a trampoline and a floor. Put a tumbling mat on top of the trampoline and attempt a standing back tuck. Practice this way until you master it and are ready to move to the floor. Take time to adjust from the trampoline. Ask your coach or spotter to help you make sure your handsprings look good. As you practice, work on making some of them high so that you can begin moving toward the back tuck. Be aware of how different it feels compared to your work on the trampoline. Keep your jumps high and bring your knees up. Using the techniques you learned on the trampoline, set yourself, jump high, pull in those knees, and get both feet down. Have your coach offer suggestions. Doing a good standing back tuck can take hundreds of repetitions before you master it -- 400-500 times at a minimum. Keep him or her in place until you feel very confident. He or she is there to help keep you from getting hurt.


Deal each player two cards face down. Signal for the players to open the pre-flop betting. Collect all of the cards folded during the opening bet.

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Starting with the player to your left, go around the table clockwise and slide one card to each person. Then, repeat the process so that each player has a total of two cards. You should be the last person to receive your final card. These two cards are known as the “hole” cards. You and the other players will keep them hidden until the showdown, matching them with five soon-to-be-revealed community cards in an attempt to put together the winning hand. Betting always begins with the player to the left of the Big Blind. During the pre-flop betting, each player has the option of either “calling,” or matching the bet set by the Big Blind, “raising,” or upping the bet to double the amount of the Big Blind, or “folding,” or pushing their cards away to signal that they concede the hand.  The two players sitting to the left of the dealer in a clockwise direction are known as the “Small Blind” and “Big Blind,” respectively. These players are obligated to make “blind” wagers to ensure that there’s money in the pot when the game begins. The Big Blind’s bet is typically twice the amount of that of the Small Blind. There are four separate stages of betting in Texas Hold ‘em. The pre-flop is the preliminary betting stage, and takes place before any of the community cards are revealed. Whenever a player chooses to fold, they’ll push their hand toward the center of the table. After every player has made their move, take all of the forfeited cards and arrange them together in a stack, which is commonly referred to as the "muck pile.” Position the muck pile face-down near the center of the table underneath the hand you're using to hold the deck.  To avoid confusion, be sure to keep the muck pile away from the deck, the hole cards, or any other active cards on the table. Make sure you also move all of the chips wagered into a pile near the center of the table after each round of betting from this point on.


Deal out 54 tiles of the correct suit to each player. Specify a number of tiles for both players to keep in their hand at all times. Decide on a target number of harmonies to play for. Flip a coin to determine which player gets to make the first action.

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At the beginning of the game, each player will receive 54 tiles. These will include 36 basic flower tiles—6 Jasmine, 6 White Lily, 6 White Jade, 6 Rose, 6 Chrysanthemum, and 6 Rhododendron. In addition to the basic flower tiles, each player will also get 18 accent tiles—3 Rock, 3 Wheel, 3 Knotweed, 3 Boat, 3 White Dragon, and 3 White Lotus. Count your tiles carefully as you deal to make sure that both players end up with the same number of each. Otherwise, the game won’t proceed fairly. Place your remaining tiles into a bag or similar blind container and keep it close by. As you play, you’ll draw new tiles from the bag at random to replenish your hand.  Every time you put a new tile into play on the board, you’ll grab a fresh tile from your reserve stock. No player is to ever have more than the designated number of tiles in their hand at any point during the game. The first player to reach your agreed-upon number of harmonies wins the game. 10 harmonies is a standard goal for newer players. However, you could choose any number you like, provided there are enough tiles to actually form the necessary arrangements. Keep in mind that the greater your target number of harmonies, the longer it will take to finish the game. Pai Sho can be time-consuming, so setting too high a number could cause your game to feel never-ending. The winner of the coin toss is the starting player, who receives the title of “guest.” The guest opens play by placing any flower tile of their choosing inside their home gate. The other player must then follow suit and set up an identical piece within their own home gate, so that the two starting pieces mirror one another across the board.  If you want to up the stakes a little, the guest can win an early advantage by both planting the first tile and taking the first turn. In some versions of the game, the guest gets the privilege of placing a tile on the mid gate at the board's center.


Deal two piles of cards from a deck of 52 into equal piles of 26 each.

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This is a complete deck without the jokers. You may want to go through the deck beforehand to make sure it's complete and there aren't any duplicates.