Plan to harvest flint corn 80-100 days after planting it. Check the corn tassels for a brown color. Wait until flint corn kernels are firm. Pull the corn from its stalk. Hang flint and popcorn cobs up to dry for 2-3 weeks. Grind flint corn or use it as livestock feed. Rub off popcorn kernels and store them. Heat popcorn kernels Grind popcorn into cornmeal as an alternative to popping.

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Unlike sweet corn, flint corn takes between 80-100 days to harvest. After 80 days have passed since planting, check your flint corn every day for signs of maturity. Corn harvests faster in temperatures over 90 °F (32 °C). If you live in a warm climate, your flint corn will mature closer to 80 days. Corn tassels are the pollen-releasing stems on the tops of the plant. As your corn matures, its tassels should change colors from green to brown. Wait until tassels' green color has disappeared completely to harvest your corn. Corn tassels, on average, turn brown around 3 weeks after the plant flowers. Flint corn and popcorn kernels should be dry and firm. Press on a corn kernel between your finger and thumb and, if it feels hardened, pick it as long as the tassels are brown and 80 days have passed since planting. If the corn kernels aren't quite matured, smooth the silk and husk back over. Hold the stalk in your non-dominant hand to steady it and, with your dominant hand, twist the ear once to the side. Pull the ear downward and yank it off of the stalk, placing your freshly-picked corn in a bucket or pile. Pulling on the cornstalk without twisting can kill the plant. Find an empty indoor space, like a garage or storage shed, to store your corn. Tie a length of twine around each corn cob and hang them from the ceiling or rafters. Let them hang for about 2-3 weeks, then transfer them to a dry container like a bucket or a storage bin. If you have a corn mill or a high-powered blender, you can use your flint corn for cornmeal. Otherwise, flint corn can make a cheap feed for livestock.  Cornmeal is a healthy, filling flour that you can use for cornbread, polenta, tamales, and other dishes.  You can also use flint corn as an autumn decoration. After drying your popcorn cob, pull the kernels off with your hand or cut them off with a knife. Store them in a dry, airtight container until you're ready to cook with them. Although popcorn is a type of flint corn, it is the only corn variety that pops when you heat it. Do not...


Plan to relocate your shrub in autumn or spring. Prepare the hole at the new location before removing the shrub from its old location. Water the shrub before relocating it. Dig up the root ball. Replant the shrub.

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Prepare the ground at the new location well by incorporating lots of well-rotted manure or compost. It’s best to do this well ahead of time if possible. Dig up the shrub to be moved in the, fall after the leaves have dropped off, or in early springtime, before new ones form. This is important, as it will allow you to transfer the shrub as quickly as possible, which prevents the roots from getting stressed or dried out.  In order to dig a new hole, it's important to get an idea of the size of the shrub's roots. This will ensure that the new hole is big enough. To do this, take a tape measure and find a point on the main trunk of the shrub that is 15 centimeter (5.9 in) above the ground. Measure the trunk diameter at this point. Multiply that by ten to get the size of the root diameter. Once you have the root diameter, you can dig a hole of the same diameter or larger. If your soil type is sandy, give the shrub a good watering two or three days before moving it. This will help preserve the root mass when you dig it up. Dig the root ball out with the back of your spade facing the plant. You can move it to its new location by placing it on an old sheet or tarpaulin which you can drag across the ground.  If you don't have time to replant the shrub immediately, you will need to tie up the branches of the shrub to protect them. Start at the bottom and use a spiral wrapping movement to wrap the branches against the trunk. Make the roots as compact as possible but avoid damaging the branches by tying too tightly. Lower the shrub's root ball into its new location and cover with soil. Don’t tamp the soil down with your feet as this can damage the roots. Water the shrub well until it's established in its new position.


Plan to sharpen chisels before using. Get a sharpening stone. Prepare the stone.

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A set of brand-new chisels won't be sharp enough to do intricate woodworking, so you'll want to sharpen them before you start on a project. They stay sharp for a long time, so plan to sharpen them about once or twice a year unless you use them very frequently. If the chisels are old or have uneven or damaged bevels, it may be necessary to reshape them using a grinding wheel before sharpening. Hold the bevel of the damaged chisel flat to the grinding wheel to remove large gouges, dirt or rust.    You'll need a stone with three levels - course, medium and fine - to achieve the sharpest edge. Sharpening stones are available at home and garden centers and hardware stores. The stone you choose will come with a lubricant (or recommend one for you to buy separately). There are two main types, both of which are quite effective:  Water stones use water as a lubricant. They are soaked in water for several minutes before use. This is the type of stone favored in Japan. Oil stones are lubricated with petroleum-based oil before use. Get it ready according to the instructions that came with it. For a water stone, you will need to soak it in a water bath. An oil stone should be lubricated with the appropriate type of petroleum oil.


Plan to spend about $150-$500 (£125 to £400) for a decent show. Choose quality over quantity. Go with a peony shell for the most common fireworks burst. Select a brocade shell for an umbrella pattern. Pick waterfall fireworks for a long-burning tail. Choose a crossette for a burst that crisscrosses. Purchase a set piece to display a word or shape. Get cakes for multiple aerial effects that fire rapidly.

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This should give you anywhere from 10-50 shells, depending on the ones you choose. Try to vary your show with at least 3-4 different effects, such as a combination of peony bursts, brocades, and waterfalls, with a multi-effect cake for the finale. Fireworks can be expensive, but you’ll have a more impressive show if you focus on a shorter show packed with exciting aerials rather than trying to stretch your budget into the longest show you can make. Choose shells that will make an impact on the crowd and which fire multiple shots rather than buying bottle rockets and Roman candles in bulk. Peonies are the shells most people think about when they imagine a fireworks show. They produce a spherical break of colored stars and are especially striking when several are used in quick succession. The cost of a peony averages about $25 USD. Brocades trail sparks, which slowly cascade down in the shape of an umbrella. Use a combination of brocades and peonies for an eye-catching opening. A 10-shot brocade shell starts at about $20 but can cost as much as $100 depending on the intensity and duration of the effects. Waterfall fireworks create, as the name suggests, a waterfall effect after the break. The stars only fall a short distance, but the effect can be breathtaking. A 10 ft (3.0 m) waterfall firework should cost around $40 USD. A crossette shoots several large stars which then break apart into smaller stars. This is accompanied by a loud crackling sound and creates a crisscross or grid pattern. You can find multiple-shot crossettes starting at about $15-$20 USD. Set pieces usually burn for about a minute, and they really impress the crowd. They are available in a wide variety of patterns, shapes, and words, including flags,hearts, or corporate logos. You can use these to catch the audience’s attention at the beginning, or you can incorporate it into your finale. Since set pieces are usually custom-designed, these can cost several hundred dollars, but the impact is worth it if you have the room in your budget. Cakes...


Plan to start your bedtime routine about 30 to 60 minutes before bedtime. Take a warm bath. Put on pajamas. Take care of other personal needs. Play some soothing music. Dim the lights. Climb into bed. Talk quietly or read a story.

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It can take a while to calm down for the night and get your body ready for bed. By starting a bedtime routine about 30 to 60 minutes before bedtime, your body will have a chance to wind down and relax. Taking a bath before bed can help to relax and soothe your muscles and clear your mind. Try taking a warm bath as the first part of your bedtime routine. Use your favorite bubble bath to get clean and soak in the tub for about 15 to 20 minutes. Then dry off with a clean, fluffy towel. Cozy pajamas can help you to feel comfortable and sleep better. Choose some pajamas that work with the season. For example, if it is winter and you are a little cold at night, then put on some flannel pajamas. If it is summer and you tend to get hot during the night, then put on something light, like a t-shirt and shorts. You can also do other things to make yourself comfortable. For example, if your feet feel cold, then put on some socks. If your room feels hot, then turn on a fan. After you have your pajamas on, you will need to take care of any other personal needs to make sure that you have a good night’s sleep. Brush your teeth, wash your face, have a drink of water, and go to the bathroom before you get into bed. Music can help you to relax, so it is a great addition to a nightly bedtime routine. Choose something soothing, such as classical or jazz. Or you can listen to a few slow songs by one of your favorite musicians. Just make sure that whatever you choose is nice and relaxing. Turning down the lights will help your body to release melatonin, which is a necessary sleep hormone that our bodies make. Keeping the lights on bright may interfere with your body’s ability to release melatonin. You do not need to turn off all of the lights, but make sure that any lights that are left on are dim. For example, a small table lamp or a night light could offer some dim light to help you fall asleep. After you have seen to all of your needs and made your bedroom nice and cozy, you can climb into your bed and start to relax. You do not...


Plan to stay away from normal bedtime routines. Watch a movie. Use electronics. Talk to each other.

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Throughout the night, you'll want to avoid the things that remind you of sleeping. So stay out of your bedroom if you can. Wear your normal clothes instead of pajamas. Don't wrap yourself in a blanket or rest your head on a pillow. Getting too comfy and cozy will make it very difficult to stay awake the whole night. Movies are fun and they pass the time, but they're also passive, making them easy to fall asleep to. That's why, if you're going to watch a movie, it's better to do it at the beginning of the night. Make sure the movie is exciting, such as an action or adventure movie. Try to avoid bland ones that aren't interesting to you or you and your friends. This will keep your brain active, so you'll be less likely to want to go to sleep. Play video games. If you're friends are over, play competitive games that will keep you focused and awake. If you have friends over, this is a good time to pass the time with conversation. After you've perhaps watched a movie and/or played video games, keep each other awake by talking about things that interest you. Even if you don't have friends over, this would be a good time in the night to talk with them over the phone. Just make sure you ask them if this is alright in advance. Don't call a friend at night without getting permission earlier that day. They might be trying to sleep.


Plan to transplant after the last frost. Move the seedling container to a covered outdoor area. Prepare the planting bed according to the plant's needs. Plant the seedlings in the ground. Water and fertilize the seedlings.

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If you timed the planting right, the seedlings should have a set of mature leaves and be ready to transplant in time for the growing season, which starts after the last frost of the year. This falls in a different month depending on where you live. If you're unsure when the last frost might take place, ask for advice at your local nursery. A few days before you're ready to plant the seedlings, move them to an outdoor shed or garage. Start by giving them an hour outside a day, and increase the amount of time over a week or two. This helps them get used to the outdoor climate before you place them directly in the ground. Without this extra time to acclimate, the shock of the transplant may cause them to suffer.  If you don't have a covered outdoor area, you can place the seedlings outside and construct a makeshift shelter. Leave them in the sun during the day, and cover them with a cardboard box to protect them from the wind at night. You could also match the temperature in the room where the seedlings are kept to the temperature outside. The planting bed should be located in an area that gets the proper amount of sunlight and shade your plant needs. The soil should have the correct pH balance and composition of nutrients. Be sure that it drains well, too. You can change the pH of the soil by adding amendments like compost or manure. If you are doing this, you should prepare the bed a week or two before planting. Dig holes in the ground that are roughly the size of your seedling containers. Make sure the holes are spaced far enough apart so that the plants have plenty of room to grow. Carefully lift the seedlings from their containers, gently separate the root balls a bit, and plant them in the holes. As they grow, continue providing the correct conditions for the plants to grow healthy.


Plan to treat bagworms with insecticide in May. Look for a small, worm-like head poking out of the top of the sack. Purchase an insecticide such as Dipel or Thuricide. Put the insecticide in a sprayer. Spray insecticide in late May, June and early July.

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This is when they hatch and are at their most vulnerable. In some areas they hatch in early June. However, they often get spooked back into their sack if they are startled. They contain bacillus thuringiensis, a bacteria that is deadly to young bagworms. If you have many trees affected by bagworms, it can be expensive to thoroughly kill the bagworms with insecticide. Orthene, Talstar and Tempo are other insecticides that have been effective in killing newly-hatched bagworms. Thoroughly wet the leaves and needles of the trees that can be affected. Beware when spraying insecticide around pets and small children. Consider cordoning off the area just after you spray. This is when it can kill young larvae. Stop by late July and August when the bagworms are resilient and the insecticide no longer works.  Once September and early October begin, the adult bagworms begin fertilizing their eggs. You should begin the process of handpicking the egg sacks at this time. Adult male bagworms are moths with black wings and brown spots. They die after fertilization. Female bagworms remain inside the sack in their larval state.


Plan to tune with the group. Play the lower octave. Adjust the barrel. Play an octave sharper. Adjust at the halfway point.

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If you are in an orchestra or band at school, the group will always have a note that everyone will tune with. Most will play a concert “C” or “G.” During rehearsals, your group will let you know what note they will be tuning to. You will be responsible for transposing a half note below the said note. If the band is tuning to a concert “C,” you will tune the clarinet to a D. Always start with the lowest octave on your clarinet. Tuning with a band requires you to utilize your ears over anything else. Determine if your low octave is in-tune by focusing on your own sound in relationship to everyone else. Make adjustments to the low octave by adjusting the upper barrel.  Pull the barrel  when sharp and and push the barrel when flat. Make your adjustments in intervals of about half a millimeter. It's better to tune at home before practicing with the band. This way you are ready and won't need to make large tuning adjustments. Usually a band will play the tuning note twice. The second time is for you to check the tuning of the higher octave of your clarinet. During the second duration of the tuning note, play the higher octave of D. Again, the higher octave is usually out of tune and a bit sharp. Make adjustments to the higher octave by adjusting the halfway section.  Pull the halfway part when sharp and push the halfway part when flat. Make your adjustments in intervals of about half a millimeter. Make sure you line up your bridge key after making adjustments.


Plan unstructured time in your trip to get lost. Stop by the Piazza San Marco in the morning or late evening to avoid crowds. Tour the Basilica di San Marco to see awe-inspiring art. Visit the Ponte de Rialto to see the oldest bridge in Venice. Take a boat to the outer islands to escape the crowds. Take a guided tour to learn about the history of the city. Look for restaurants where the locals eat for an authentic experience.

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Thanks to its layout and the many canals, even visitors who are familiar with Venice find themselves getting lost. If you build time for getting lost into your day, you’ll be able to enjoy it as part of the Venetian experience instead of feeling stressed out. Getting lost is a great way to find unexpected sights, and since you’re on an island, it’s easy to find your way back eventually. During the daytime, St. Mark’s Square, better known as the Piazza San Marco, is crowded with tourists. If you want the square to yourself, try to visit first thing in the morning or late in the evening after the cruise ships have departed.  Enjoy a cup of coffee or tea at a cafe on the square as you take in the breathtaking architecture of St. Mark’s Basilica, the Doge’s Palace, and the campanile bell tower. Buy a packet of maize to feed the square’s world-famous pigeons. St. Mark’s Basilica, or the Basilica di San Marco, is an elaborately beautiful church which was built to house the body of St. Mark. There is no charge to enter the church, but they ask that you be dressed modestly — your shoulders and knees should be covered.  The domes and mosaics in St. Mark’s Basilica are some of the most ornate religious art in the world, and they draw visitors year-round. From mid-September through October, the diocese offers guided tours to explain the theological messages in the mosaics. The tours are given in different languages on different days. The Rialto Bridge, or Ponte di Rialto, was completed in 1591, and it was the only way to cross the Grand Canal on foot until 1854. This beautiful bridge features a graceful arch, 3 walkways, and 2 rows of shops, and it is a must-see when you visit Venice. Burano, Murano, Torcello, and Lido are all popular with visitors who want to explore the lesser-known side of Venice. It’s best to spend a whole day exploring these islands, with their quaint sea-side homes. You’ll definitely want to plan to eat lunch at one of the waterfront restaurants on the outer islands! Guided tours are a great way...


Plan ways to distract yourself if you're bullied. Ignore bullying as it occurs. Stand up for yourself if necessary. Avoid fighting back. Raise your self-esteem. Take action to prevent cyber bullying.

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The best means to deflect a bully is often to suppress your emotions when insulted. You want to act like whatever the bully said did not bother you. Showing a reaction will only fuel the bully; however, it can be hard to suppress your emotions in the moment. It's a good idea to have a number of ideas on hand for distracting yourself. This is a good technique if you're stuck in a situation where you cannot simply leave.  Think of things you can use to occupy your mind in the event you're targeted by a bully. Could you count backwards from 100? Could you recite a poem or song lyrics in your head? Could you try spelling words backwards? You should not suppress your emotions forever. If a bully hurt your feelings, you should talk this out with a friend or family member; however, wait until you're in a safe environment to react emotionally. If someone makes comments about your appearance, personality, or anything else, just ignore it. When you can walk away without saying anything, do so. Bullies thrive on a reaction and will be less likely to target those who do not react. This is where you can employ certain techniques to distract yourself.  Act like you did not hear anything when a bully lashes out at you. Continue with what you were doing and then walk away as quickly as you can. If a bully sees you do not react to his or her tormenting, the bully is more likely to look for another victim. If a bully persists in tormenting you, even after you've tried ignoring them, you should assert yourself; however, do so in a way that is confident without being emotional or aggressive. If a bully thinks they've successfully got under your skin, they'll keep going. A calm and collected approach is best if you need to stick up for yourself.  Use a loud voice to say something like, "No. Stop it." Then, immediately walk away. You do not want to get stuck in a screaming match with a bully. Tell them to stop, and then continue on your way. If a bully tries to bait you into an argument after you've asserted yourself, say...


Plan what type of party you are having. Decide where you will have your party. Make a guest list. Decide what the theme of the party is, if there is one. Plan the entire party’s activities. Clean the house or hire a maid.

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It could be a birthday or house party, depending on what you and your friends want.   You should consider who is going to be coming, such as family and friends, and how many people you are inviting.  If it is a birthday party, children will more than likely be present.  If you are having a house party, more than likely you will mainly have friends.  Make sure you know what type of party you are having well in advance, with probably 2 weeks notice. There are plenty of other parties.  However, the main parties are birthday and house. If it is a house party, reserve a dance hall.  If is a birthday party, you can have it at home.  You can have a house party at home, but you will need to find a bunch of equipment and a DJ. Do not spend too much money on your party.  If you are having a birthday party, it should not cost too much. You will need this for any party, and especially for a birthday party.  You will need to have a maximum number of guests.  If you are having friends over for a birthday party, only invite the closest friends. You can easily have a party with a few people.  There is no minimum. If there is a certain theme, you will need to note the proper attire in your invitation.   If you are having a house party, it is recommended that your guests have a more informal dress.  If the party is for a birthday, more formal attire would probably work best. Not everyone might show up in the right theme, depending on the theme.  Try to keep the theme relevant to the type of party. In the beginning of the party, you should have something entertaining, such as certain dancing.  Then you should have certain games like pool (if you have a pool table).  You can even invite them to your hot tub or pool (if you have a pool). Just make sure the party will not be boring. Make sure your house or dance floor is clean before you have the party.  Guests will more than likely stay for the entire party if the place is clean.  The cleaner your party atmosphere is, the more your guests will be attracted to the party.  It is...


Plan where you’re going. Make a vlog Film a travel guide if you prefer more informative videos. Make a niche video if you just want to focus on one aspect of travel. Follow any directions from your sponsor if your video is made for a company.

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Try to plan out your trip as much as possible beforehand so you have a good idea of what kind of video you’ll be making. Knowing your destination will help you plan out important elements of your video ahead of time and start to build an engaging narrative.  For example, you could plan a trip to Paris with all of the different shots you want, such as clips of a street market, food, exploring the city, and looking up at the Eiffel Tower at night. If you’re traveling to India and you want to focus on local cuisine, plan out some of the main places you’ll be eating at and what order they should go in. You could start small with street food and work your way up to a fancy full meal. if you want a more personal and informal video. In vlogs, you act as the host of the trip, talking directly to the audience and giving commentary and updates from time to time. You’ll need a camera with a front-facing screen so you can tell where you are in the frame. This style is usually a bit more distanced and professional than a vlog. You’ll show off the destination rather than the personal details of your specific trip. You’ll probably want a higher quality camera, as the quality informs your authority as a guide. Viewers are less likely to watch a travel guide filmed on a cell phone camera. This could include food, historical events, adventure activities, or fashion. Consider your destination and what it’s known for, such as surf culture in Hawaii, wine country in the South of France, or the fashion industry in New York. If your video is sponsored for marketing purposes, you’ll need to follow certain requirements set up by the company. Make sure to come to an official agreement with the company that works for both of you.  Make sure you know any specific shots they want and whether they want product placement. This could involve you using the product or otherwise incorporating the product into the shot. You should also find out how you’ll need to brand the video. For vlogs, some companies ask that you give them a verbal...


Plan your card. Visit an ID creator website. Decide if you want to use a template. Contact the ID printing service about creating a custom design. Choose options. Decide what picture you want to include on the ID card, if any. Determine if you want to use a magnetic stripe or bar code.

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Think about the purpose of the card, how many cards you will need, and what kind of design you want to use. Planning before you begin creating and ordering your ID card(s) will make the process easier and ensure that you get exactly the kind of card you need. Consider, for instance:  How will the card(s) be used? For instance, to permit access to a building or site? To differentiate an employee or group member from non-employees/group members? To prove someone’s identity? If the card(s) will be used to prove identity, what security features will be used? A photograph? Bar code? Magnetic stripe? The right feature depends upon the capabilities you or your company/organization has. How many cards do you need? Just one for yourself? One for each member of a group, organization, or company? Does each person need an individualized card, or is a standardized card for each group member sufficient? There are numerous online ID creation services to choose from. If you are not already familiar with one or more, a quick online search should produce several. You can also ask for a colleague to recommend a service to you. In any case, choose a service that is reliable, cost-efficient, and that can deliver the options you need. Typically, online ID manufacturers will offer you the option of using a template for your card. Templates can save you time and effort by pre-selecting the design for you. Usually, if you use a template you will just need to click on the areas you want to adjust (such as text or a picture). If you design an ID card from scratch, you will have to decide where to position all of the information. If you don’t see a template that looks right for your needs, and you don’t want to or don’t have time to design one yourself, you can ask the ID printing service to create a custom design for you. Some services will announce this as an option when you begin the card design process. Custom design services will probably entail a higher fee. Options may be available for both the front and back of the ID card....


Plan your get-away route. Go to bed dressed. Assemble your crew. Plan for pets. Create a fake you.

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Before you find yourself in the middle of your squeaky staircase with your mom's Pomeranian nipping at your heels, you need to think of the obstacles between you and a night of freedom. Where are your house's loud spots? What are your parents habits? Is there any chance your dad will hop up for a midnight bowl of ice cream and Leno at the exact moment you're trying to sneak out? Before you sneak out, consider:  Your parents' bedtime and sleep habits Your travel plan What to blend in with, and how to blend in Where you'll meet up with your friends Your route out of the house Your route out of the neighborhood Animals Back-up plans and excuses Giving some thought to your clothes ahead of time can save you some grief later. Say your parents wake up and you come in wearing your party clothes. Oops. It'll be hard to pawn off a "Oh, I just went for a walk" excuse. Anticipate the worst case scenario and prepare for it.  Wear bedclothes over your regular clothes. Make sure your parents see that you're dressed for sleeping. Take off your bedclothes when you get outside. Stash them somewhere close-by, or in your car, or stuff them somewhere your parents won't look, like the mailbox. Before you sneak back in, change your clothes. If your parents happen to be up, or awaken when you enter, you'll be able to use a quick-excuse more easily if it looks like you've been sleeping recently. If you are just sneaking out to hang with friends, and have no specific clothing to wear, consider where you will be, and how to blend in. Although many people think black is a good color, it is not. Black - As mentioned above, this is not a wise choice for camouflage, as most shadows are not black.  Dark blues or purples - A better choice for blending in. Most shadows tend to be darker shades of blue and/or purple. Green - A good option for blending in with trees, bushes, and weeds. Sand/khaki - Better for staying hidden in sandy environments. Grey - A good choice of camouflage for rocky terrains. Brown - Better for woody areas. Not...


Plan your healing process in advance of your procedure by eating properly and getting plenty of rest. Manage your expectations. Seek out the support of family and friends.

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Taking care of yourself weeks and even months prior to plastic surgery with good nutrition will help you to heal faster.  Also be sure to drink plenty of fluids and eat a balanced diet after surgery to help your body get the nutrients it needs to mend quickly.   Quit smoking to help speed up the healing process. Plastic surgery is generally done in hopes of altering one's appearance. However, it is important to note that a perceived "improvement" in appearance will not equate to perfection. There is only so much that can be done surgically to change one's appearance, so if you are expecting perfection you will be setting yourself up for disappointment.  Be careful that you do not have unrealistic hopes for plastic surgery or for the anticipated change.  Some people inadvertently seek out plastic surgery in hopes that it will "solve problems" in other areas of their life — for instance, in hopes that it may save a bad relationship, help their career prospects, cause them to be more popular in their circle of friends, or cause them to be more appealing on the dating scene. It is important to get honest with yourself about your expectations for the surgery, as well as the reasons you are doing it so as not to have your hopes too high and be disappointed. Your family and friends can be an important moral support, especially during the initial stages of healing. You may have pain, trouble completing ordinary tasks around the house, and/or potential feelings of disappointment as the positive results of your surgery will often not be seen fully until some healing has taken place, potentially months down the line. (In other words, plastic surgery tends to look worse before it looks better, as your body needs to heal the wounds and get rid of the swelling, so support during this time is key).  Depending upon how major of a surgery you underwent, you may have activity restrictions for the first while as you are recovering. If this is the case, your family and friends can help you with the tasks of day-to-day life that...


Plan your meals in advance. Avoid strict or fad diets. Never skip breakfast or other meals. Ask yourself if you feel hungry before you eat. Eat slowly and to savor your food as you eat it. Include a good amount of protein and fiber with each meal. Keep a journal of your eating habits.

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Use the weekend to cook healthy meals for the week, or go shopping for healthy foods. Plan out your snacks as well as meals, so that you don't reach for sugary or fatty snacks. These diets can make you especially prone to cravings and binge eating. Focus on a balanced diet, but allow yourself an occasional treat so you don't feel deprived. Make sure you include a good source of whole grains and protein. For instance, a slice of whole grain bread covered in peanut butter and a few ounces of yogurt can give you energy for the day and balance hormone levels. Although it is not a good idea to wait for a deep dip in blood sugar before you eat, many people eat outside of mealtimes when they are anxious or stressed. Battle that idea by making a conscious effort to eat only when you need the energy. People often eat faster when they are stressed, meaning they do not enjoy it. They often want to eat again soon. Studies have found that stressed people also eat bigger portions, so curb this tendency by eating slower and chewing longer. The hormone Neuropeptide-Y causes cravings for carbohydrates, which we often call "comfort foods" because they release endorphins that make us feel happier. However, this happiness is not long lasting and will lead to wait gain. Identify your "comfort foods" and remove them from your home, office or car. Find a distraction every time you crave them. After a few weeks, you may be able to identify stress patterns that cause you to eat when stressed. Institute healthy snacks or plan exercise and distraction at the times when you are normally feeling stressed.


Plan your meals. Eat a healthy diet. Get enough sleep. Exercise regularly.

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In your thirties, you’re probably quite busy taking kids to soccer or school, or working hard on your career.  By the time you get home, you might be tired and not feel like figuring out what to eat and cook.  Planning your meals will help save you time thinking about what to cook and scrounging around for ingredients.  Think about your favorite dishes when planning meals.  Try to incorporate items you have on hand, and go shopping for items you want but do not have already.  Stock up on staples like rice, beans, and flour.  Buying only what you need to adhere to your meal plan will save you time and money at the market. Use a meal plan on a weekly or monthly basis to ensure you have some meals more-or-less ready to eat on short notice. Mix it up.  Don’t eat the same meals week after week or you will get bored.  Try something new and different.  Involve your family or partner in the meal-making process as well. Include occasions where you plan to eat out or have snacks between meals in your meal plan.  Factor leftovers into your meal plan if you have any so as not to waste food.  Being realistic will reduce food waste in your household. Avoiding obesity and its subsequent effects like diabetes and heart disease gets harder in your thirties as your metabolism changes.  In order to avoid these unhealthy developments, avoid processed foods and foods loaded with sugar, salt, and fat.  A healthy diet consists of mostly fruits and vegetables, fiber, and whole grains with a limited protein intake.  Such a diet will reduce your risk of obesity and leave you feeling full longer than a diet which is heavy in salt, sugar, and fat.  For instance, a meal of steamed spinach or broccoli along with brown rice and kidney beans is a good, healthy meal.  Instant or microwave dinners, or pasta mixes with lots of salt (like ramen or mac and cheese) are not good choices if you’re aiming for a healthy diet. An easy way to reduce sugar is to cut out consumption of soda and sugary drinks. Eat in moderation.  Don’t eat when you are...


Plan your route in advance. Find out where the weigh stations are located. Change your route so that you bypass the station.

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In order to avoid the weigh stations, you'll need to know if they're going to pop up on your designated route. Map out your trip ahead of time so that you can look up where the weigh stations will be along the way. You can plan out your trip on your phone, typing the destination into a map app. This will give you directions and show you which roads you'll be taking. The easiest way to do this is to use an app, such as Drivewyze or Trucker Path. The apps will show you exactly where the weigh stations are located on the road, and many of the apps serve as a navigation app as well, giving you directions and showing weigh stations on the same map. You can also type “weigh stations near me” into a search engine—this will show a map of nearby weigh stations depending on your location. If a weigh station is located on your current route, you'll need to make adjustments so that you can avoid it. You can either change your route ahead of time by looking at a map, or you can exit the highway before you reach the weigh station and take an alternate route then.  A map app will be able to show you alternate routes you can take that will lead you to your destination, but they may add time to your trip. Make sure you check that the alternate route doesn't have any weigh stations as well.


Plan your route. Travel outside of rush hour. Consider carpooling.

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Use your GPS or online map generator to plan ahead. Enter your starting address and destination. Budget at least an hour if the roads aren’t congested. Traffic jams could add several minutes or hours to your trip. Choose one of three routes for your trip:  I-95 and I-495 (the Washington Beltway) are common routes but are usually very congested, especially during rush hour. The Baltimore-Washington Parkway might be less congested because trucks can’t use it, but it has fewer lanes than I-95 and the Beltway. U.S. Highway 29 (also known as Colesville Rd. and Columbia Pike) is another popular alterative to I-95 and the Beltway. It consists of three lanes in each direction. Overall, it is the least congested route between the two cities. Most highways are very congested during rush hour, so avoid it at all costs. Rush hour between Baltimore and DC occurs Monday through Friday from 6:00 to 10:00 AM and 4:00 to 7:00 PM. To avoid getting stuck in traffic, tune in to WTOP 103.5 FM for traffic updates every 10 minutes. The Baltimore and Washington, DC areas offer carpool lanes (aka High Occupancy Vehicle, or HOV lanes) in select locations. To use the HOV lane, you must have at least one other person in the vehicle with you. Look for the white diamond painted on the road or the sign reading “HOV” or “Carpools and Vanpools.” The I-95 and the Beltway have HOV lanes, which are often less congested than other lanes.


Plan your shopping trip for the right day. Go shopping alone. Buy frequently used items in bulk. Hit up multiple stores. Pay for each haul in cash.

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Shopping on certain days of the week can actually boost your savings.  Midweek is typically the best both for additional deals and for a less crowded shopping trip.  Additional tips:  For most grocery stores, manager markdowns are made on Wednesdays and prices are also reduced for items nearing the “sell by” date. Wednesday is also the day most grocery stores release new ads, so you can get bonus deals if the store honors the last week's deal as well. Most savvy shoppers recommend going shopping alone so that you can really focus on shopping efficiently without any distractions.  If you prefer to bring a friend or your partner, just be sure he is aware of your shopping and savings goals.  Have him tackle items on the perimeter of the store while you scour the center; just don't let him sway you from your list!  Sticking to the list and shopping efficiently is also much easier if you leave your children at home. Some items are cheaper if you buy them in bulk, which can help save money and stock your pantry for more than just one month.  Avoid buying anything perishable in bulk or anything that you really don't use often, as this will just waste money.  See if the store offers specials if you buy in bulk, just be sure to do a quick calculation in your head or on your phone to make sure you are actually getting a substantial deal. Different stores have different strengths, and you should use this to your advantage.  If you shop a few times a week, the cost of gas can add up driving all over town, but this doesn't apply when you're shopping only once a month.  Try utilizing a big discount store for bulk items and a grocery store for everything else.  You can also go to a farmers market during peak seasons for inexpensive produce.  Plan on going to two or three stores. Avoid going to more than four stores. Plan to spend about two to four total hours shopping. This is not a requirement, but it is highly recommended that you pay for each trip in cash.  Paying in cash will help you stay accountable for the money you...


Plan your trip to see the papal address. Research which Vatican activities are free and which ones require admission. Book your tickets in advance to see the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel, especially if you are traveling around religious holidays or during the summer months. Book an official guide to tour the Vatican Museums and other parts of The Vatican City. Dress appropriately. Carry a small bag. Prepare for pickpockets.

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This will require advanced planning because the pope only speaks on Wednesdays and Sundays. To receive his blessing on a Sunday, you will have to arrive long before noon to find a good place to see him in the crowded square. You can request tickets to see him give his Wednesday papal address if you visit between September and June. Go to vatican.va to fill out a request form and fax it into the number on the form. The Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel cost approximately 15 Euros ($19, 12 pounds) and St. Peter's Dome is approximately 6 Euros ($6.4, 4.8 pounds). St. Peter's Basilica, St. Peter's Square are free. The admission to The Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel are combined. You cannot buy tickets for 1 of these places. You will save waiting time at the gates. However, you cannot book discount or student tickets in advance, unless you are with a tour group that does it for you. Go to biglietteriamusei.vatican.va/musei/tickets/do?weblang=en&do to book these tickets. Italy has a very strict rule that only licensed guides can tour these areas, so be sure to ask to see their licenses. There is such a wealth of art and information within the Vatican walls, that this is 1 place where your visit will be enhanced by paying a guide. Go to mv.vatican.va/3_EN/pages/z-Info/MV_Info_Servizi_Visite.html to see a description of the various tours you can choose. There is a link at the bottom of the page where you can book your tour as a group or an individual. The Vatican carries its own dress code. Ensure your knees and shoulders are covered, although some people wear long pants and long shirts as a sign of respect.  Both men and women will be turned away if they do not have their knees and shoulders covered. This means tank-tops, sundresses and short shorts will not be tolerated. Women can modify their outfit by bringing a shawl and wearing tights.  Italy and the Vatican City are extremely warm in the summer and they can be rainy in the winter. Bring lightweight clothing that dries easily. This will help you when you...


Plan your wisteria’s first pruning of the year around late winter. Get a pair of hand pruners, gloves, and a step ladder. Cut the long shoots down until they have 2 to 3 buds each. Be careful not to bump the flower buds. Decide whether you want to tie or trim the thin shoots.

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This is the best time to prune your wisteria because the leaves and flowers have not grown back yet after falling off during the fall. This means that the branches are bare and easier to reach. If you are hard pruning an old, neglected wisteria, don't do everything all at once. Space the process out over the span of a few years. You will need the hand pruners to do the actual pruning, and a step ladder to reach the vines. A pair of gloves will help protect your hands against scratches. If you are hard pruning an old, neglected wisteria, switch to a pair of loppers or a pruning saw. This will help tidy the vine up and ensure that the blooms get enough sunlight. Make sure that you prune wisteria to 2 to 3 buds on the inner side of the shoot. You do not need to leave any buds on the outside of the shoot.  The inner side of the shoot is the side that is facing away from you. The outer side of the shoot is the side that is facing you. Be sure to cut off the whip-like water shoots as well. The only things you want left on the vine are the flower buds. If you are hard pruning an old, neglected wisteria, focus on the old, hard branches. Cut them back to where a new shoot begins. The flower buds are very fragile, and if you accidentally bump against them, they may fall off. If these buds fall off, then your wisteria will have fewer blooms. The vine will have developed lots of thin shoots during summer. If you want to train the vine to cover more area on your wall or pergola, you will have to tie the vines into place with wire. If the shoots are all tangled up, it would be better to cut them down to 1 inch (2.5 cm) instead.   To tie the shoots, hold them against your desired support, then loosely wrap a piece of thin wire around both the vine and the support. Twist the wire together, then trim the excess wire off. Cutting the thin shoots down will help encourage bigger blooms the following year.


Plan, purchase, excavate and create your foundation. Pressure wash your flagstones. Lay out your stones and cut as necessary. Mix your mortar. Lay your stones in a bed of mortar. Let it dry. Fill the joints. Seal the joints.

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Follow the steps laid out in method one, up through step five, the creation of a gravel and sand foundation. To ornament an existing patio or path, you can also cover a pre-existing concrete slab with flagstones using the mortared flagstone technique. In this case, you can skip the excavation stage and just work on top of the slab. A clean surface will ensure a better bond to the mortar. If working on a concrete slab, pressure wash it as well. Follow the same procedure detailed in step six of method one.  Make certain you are satisfied with your layout. Once you start to put the stones in place with mortar, it will be very difficult to move them. If you are planning to fill your joints with grout or mortar, try to keep your joints narrow. If using sand or gravel, you can make the joints any size you find aesthetically pleasing. If using grout or mortar as joint filler, the flagstone surface will have a cleaner look and a smoother finish if you fit your stones together such that you keep the joints narrow and as uniform as possible. Mortar is a mix of sand, cement, and water. You should mix two measures of sand to every one measure of cement. Then, slowly add water while stirring the mixture. Continue adding water until you get a consistency similar to cake frosting. It's a good idea to mix up a small practice batch or two before you mix up a large enough batch to lay your stones. One by one, lift each stone, apply mortar to your bed of sand and gravel or the concrete slab you are attaching your stones to, then set the stone into the wet mortar. If your stones are not of uniform thickness, you will need to apply additional mortar underneath some of them to get an even surface. In this case, start by identifying the thickest stone and mortaring it in first. Then, work outward from this stone, ensuring that each subsequent flagstone is about the same height. Don't do anything else until your mortar is completely dry. Fill the spaces between the flagstones with sand, gravel, additional mortar, or grout.  Grout...


Plank with proper technique to avoid getting injured. Sculpt your abs and obliques with side planks. Challenge yourself with extended planks.

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Start by lying on your stomach with your head facing down, forearms on the floor, and palms flat on the floor. Inhale, then exhale as you lift your body off of the floor so your forearms and toes carry your weight. Keep your elbows bent at 90 degree angles directly under your shoulders.  Engage your core muscles so your head, neck, and spine form a straight line. Keep your head down throughout the plank so you continually face the floor.  Try holding the plank for 10 to 15 seconds. Continue to breathe as you hold the position. If planking for 10 to 15 seconds isn't challenging, try increasing the time to 30 to 45 seconds. Start by lying on your right side with your right elbow bent directly under your shoulder. Your left leg should be stacked directly over your right leg. Inhale, then exhale as you engage your core muscles and extend your elbow to a 90 degree angle.  Keep your elbow bent directly under your shoulder. Your head, neck, and spine should make a straight line. Continue breathing as you hold the side plank. Try holding it for 10 to 15 seconds, or go for 30 to 45 seconds if a shorter duration isn't challenging. Slowly lower yourself back to the starting position, then repeat the steps on your left side. To increase difficulty, raise your upper leg off of your lower leg as you hold a side plank. Start on your stomach as if you were doing a standard plank. Straighten your arms above your head with your palms touching the floor. Engage your core as you use your fingertips and toes to lift your body off of the floor.  Keep your head in a neutral position so you're facing the floor throughout the plank. Your head, neck, and spine should form a straight line. Try to hold the plank for 15 seconds. Continue breathing as you hold the position, then slowly lower yourself back to the floor. If you're not able to keep your back straight during an extended plank, stick to standard planks.


Plant a green manure crop again the following season.

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Once this cycle is completed, your soil is now ready for replanting with your choice of plants. However, it is a good idea to not plant new plants (either a non-green manure crop or a green manure crop) in the area for at least two weeks. The green manure can suppress plant growth for at least this amount of time. Alternatively, a green manure crop can be left to grow for up to two years, before being ploughed (plowed) back in.


Plant daikon seeds in late summer or fall. Select a spot with loosely-packed soil. Make sure the radishes will get full sun for at least 8 hours per day. Create rows that are 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart. Plant seeds 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) apart and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) deep.

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Daikon radishes do best when they are planted in cool weather. When you plant will depend on the climate where you live. For example, if you live in a climate where the temperatures do not start to drop until December, then planting in October might be best. If temperatures start to drop in April, then you might want to plant in February.  Checking the temperature of the soil can help you to determine the best time to plant. The soil temperature should be between 60 to 85 °F (16 to 29 °C) for optimal germination.  Stick a soil thermometer about 6 inches (15 cm) into the soil to check the temperature. If the soil is hard, then use a screwdriver to poke a hole through the soil first. A loosely-packed garden bed (raised or at ground level) or a pot with loosely-packed soil is ideal for growing daikon. The soil will need to be loose far down enough to support daikon growth, so check to ensure that you will have at least 12 inches (30 cm) of loosely-packed soil where you will be growing daikon.  If the soil is tightly-packed, then you can loosen it with a garden fork. Dig the garden fork into the ground and then tilt it and bring it back up through the soil. Do this as many times as needed to loosen the soil. If you are planting daikon in pots or a planter, avoid packing the soil down. Just pour it in and do not press on it. Choose a sunny location in your garden to grow daikon in the ground. If you will be growing daikon indoors, then place the container next to a south-facing window or purchase a grow light to place the daikon under. To find a sunny spot in your yard, go outside at various times of the day to see where the sun is shining. For example, you could go outside at 8:00 am, 12:00 pm, and 4:00 pm to check the location of the sunlight in your yard. Daikon radishes need room to grow, so make sure that you are spacing out your rows by 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm). You can grow radishes in all of the rows, or grow daikon in 1 row and grow a different crop in the next row. If you are planting daikon in a...


Plant hyssop seeds in damp soil in early spring. Keep watered and weed-free as the plants grow.

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Space the seeds about 30cm apart, or thin out the seedlings later. Hyssop needs minimal care but does appreciate a little manure and mixed fertiliser in late winter to encourage new growth.


Plant in early to mid-spring after the last frost. Plant seeds directly into the ground for best results. Space the seeds about 10 inches (25 cm) apart. Cover the seeds with ⅛ inch (3 mm) of gardening soil. Water the seeds until the soil is moist.

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Once the last frost has passed in your area, you’re ready to plant! Be as sure as you can that frost season is over, however, as these plants probably won’t survive a cold snap.  If you’re unsure whether the last frost has occurred, get in touch with your local nursery. You can also do an internet search to determine when the last frost usually takes place in your area. African daisies do best when they’re sowed from seeds directly in your garden. The daisies don’t love being transplanted, so you may struggle a bit if you choose to start seedlings indoors. If you want, you can start the seeds indoors in containers about 8-10 weeks before the last frost occurs in your region. Sprinkle single seeds in spots well-spaced enough that the plants have plenty of room to grow. The grown plants don’t mind a little bit of crowding. Once they’ve fully matured, they should be about a foot (30 cm) high. If you’re transplanting small seedlings, plant these about 10 inches (25 cm) apart as well. Purchase gardening soil online or at a local nursery. Sprinkle just a small amount on top of the seeds. The seeds should be just barely covered. While you can just use the regular soil from your garden, a gardening soil may work better. It can add some extra nutrients that may help the seeds germinate. Give the seeds a gentle watering. You don’t want to disturb them from their spots, so water slowly and monitor the drainage. Stop when the soil is moist.


Plant in the fall or spring, depending on your climate. Sow the seeds in a warm, sunny location. Prepare a planting bed for the transplants.

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If you live in a mild climate (growing zone 7 or warmer), you can plant leeks in the fall for a spring harvest, then plant again in the late spring for a fall harvest. Leeks planted later in the year will overwinter and grow in the spring. If you live in a climate with harsh winters, leeks should be planted in very early spring, as soon as the ground is workable. Different leek varieties are meant for different planting times. Ask an expert at your local nursery to inform you what varieties work best in your climate. Fill seed trays with a seed starting mix (not potting soil) and sow the seeds about 6 weeks before the last frost of the winter. Leek seeds germinate best at a temperature around 77 °F (25 °C), so keep them in a warm, sunny room. If you're starting seeds in the fall, you can keep them outdoors in a sunny spot. Keep the starting mixture moist.  If you wish, you can direct sow the seeds instead of starting them in trays. Prepare a planting bed with plenty of compost. Plant the seeds 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) deep and several inches apart. The seedlings are ready to transplant when they grow to be at least 6 inches (15.2 cm) long. Prepare a permanent bed for the seedlings. Choose a spot in the sun that has well-draining soil. Work compost into the soil to a depth of at least 8 inches (20.3 cm). Dig a trench 6 inches (15.2 cm) deep. Leeks must be planted deep in the soil so that the base of the stem stays out of the sun and becomes "blanched." The blanched part is the white, tender, edible part of the leek.


Plant in the spring. Select a planting site that receives full sun. Amend the soil. Choose your bean type. Soak the beans. Install a support system, if necessary.

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Plan on planting your pinto beans after the danger of frost has completely passed.  Pinto beans need soil temperatures around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius) to germinate properly.  These plants also need between 80 and 140 days without frost to reach full maturity. To mature properly, pinto bean plants need at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. Make sure that you have not grown other legumes in your chosen planting site within the past three years. The soil needs to be loose, well draining, and fertile. Consider mixing mature compost into the soil to improve these properties before planting the beans.  Also note that the soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. If the soil tests below 6.0, add lime or wood ash to raise it. If the soil tests above 7.0, add organic matter like pine needles or peat moss to lower it. You can also consider adding pinto bean inoculant to the soil. Doing so is not especially vital, but it often helps the plant fix its own nitrogen more effectively. Make sure that the compost and other amendments reach a depth of 6 inches (15 cm) within the soil. Pinto beans come in bush and pole varieties.  Bush beans are easier to grow but produce a smaller yield. Pole beans require the use of a stake, trellis, or similar support system but tend to produce more. Place the beans you intend to plant in a shallow dish of water and allow them to soak overnight the evening before you plan on sowing them.  The beans should soak anywhere from 8 to 24 hours before you plant them. Soaking the beans will prepare them for germination. If you are planting pole beans instead of bush beans, install a trellis, stake, or vegetable cage before you plant the beans. The support system you use should be 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.1 m) tall. Ideally, the texture of the surface should be fairly rough since this will make it easier for the vines to climb it.


Plant jicama after the danger of frost has passed. Obtain jicama seeds. Soak the seeds. Choose a good location. Make sure the location has good soil. Water the seeds. Dig small holes. Place the jicama seeds in the soil.

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Jicama doesn’t do well during a frost, so wait to plant until the weather has warmed up to plant it in your garden. Research the average date of the last frost in your area, and plant your jicama one to two weeks after this date. The jicama plant may not grow properly if you live in an environment that stays mostly cold. Unless you already have seeds, you will need to obtain them. Jicama seeds can be purchased at a nursery, some home improvement stores, or even online. Check the packet to make sure you have the right seeds before planting. Put the jicama seeds in lukewarm water to speed up germination. Place seeds in a shallow pan of warm water. Allow them to sit for 24 hours. Then, remove the seeds from the water. Look for a place in your garden that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. The spot you choose to grow the jicama will affect the outcome of the harvest. The location you choose should be exposed to full sun for the duration of the six to eight hours. Choose a location with moist but well-drained soil. Make sure the soil is alkaline with a pH over 7. You can test this easily with a commercial pH tester.  If you want to grow the seeds before the last frost, then you can plant them in a pot indoors. You should use planting soil, perlite, or vermiculite, and a little peat moss in a medium-sized pot. The pot should be placed under a grow light or by a sunny windowsill. If you start with the seeds in a pot, wait for them to grow to 3 in (7.6 cm) tall before you plant them in the garden. If you decide to plant the seeds in a pot before the frost, you will need to take care of the seeds. Once you have planted them in a medium-sized pot with planting soil, water the seeds regularly until the last frost. Water the seeds until the soil is moist any time the soil feels dry. Make the holes about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) in depth. The amount of holes you dig depends on the number of seeds you have to plant. The holes should be about 12 inches (30.5 cm) apart. If you plant more than one row, then the rows...


Plant native trees, shrubs, and plants. Build a birdhouse or nesting box. Create a nesting site using natural materials.

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Use a local field guide or call your local Audubon Society chapter (if you live in the United States) to find out what grows naturally in your region, and add these plants to your garden. Native trees, shrubs, and plants are more likely to attract birds than non-native trees, shrubs, and plants. A variety of native trees, shrubs, and grasses will also provide natural shelter and cover for birds.  Evergreen trees and shrubs like hollies make great homes for birds over the winter. Many birds are attracted to fruit and berries, so consider planting an apple tree or planting a blueberry bush. Different species nest in different places, so it is a good idea to conduct research on the type of bird you wish to attract. If you plan to buy a birdhouse or build a nesting box, take note that boxes with different holes, shapes, and orientations will attract different species. Such a box can be mounted to a tree or hung from a pole. Make sure that the box is up no later than February if you are in a southerly location; if in the north, hang it in March. Make sure that your nest site has adequate ventilation and is supplied with a "baffle" and reinforcement ring at the opening. This will prevent predators from entering. If you would like to create a more natural nesting spot, an easy way to do it is to allow your yard to grow a bit wilder. Let the grass grow in a certain spot or build a brush pile. This simulates the type of habitat where birds nest in the wild. You might alternately heap branches into a large pile or create sites under your bushes by raking mulch around the base.  Consider supply nesting material such as string, hair, or other fibers, or stuff mesh bags with pieces of yarn or string, straw, pet fur, small bits of cloth, or anything else that a bird might use to nest. Don't remove dead trees unless they are a danger. Standing dead trees are important nesting and foraging spots for many species, especially woodpeckers, which eat the insects that infest dead trees.


Plant or place mums in full sun. Use a fertile soil that drains easily when planting your mums in containers. Move them to a new location every three years.

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If you don't have an area that gets a full 8 hours of sunlight everyday, put them in a place where the mums will get at least 5 hours. If you have an option to choose between morning or afternoon sun, opt for morning sun. Mums don’t do well with ‘wet feet’ so try to avoid soil that retains a lot of water. For in-ground planting, choose an area of the yard that doesn't accumulate too much water. Moving your plants helps to prevent pest problems and reduces the risk of disease. (See the Dividing and Transplanting section for more instructions.)


Plant roses in the spring or early summer, based on their instructions. Dig a hole 1 ft (0.30 m) deep and about 10 in (25 cm) wide. Place the roots into your hole. Fill the rest of your hole up with potting soil specifically for roses. Cover your soil in a 2–4 in (5.1–10.2 cm) layer of mulch. Water your roses immediately after you plant them.

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Each species has slight variations to their growing conditions. Check your particular instructions to determine the best time to plant your roses outside. For most climates, May to June is the best time to grow miniature roses. You want your hole to be large enough to completely house your roses’ root systems. It is helpful to have your hole 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) wider than your plant itself, so it has room to grow. To dig your hole, insert a garden tool or a shovel into the ground, and remove dirt until you reach about 1 ft (0.30 m) deep. The size of your hole can be a rough estimate. If there are any tangled roots, shake out the extra dirt and untangle them. Then, place the rose bush’s roots inside the hole directly in the center. For best results, purchase rose potting soil from a home supply or garden store. Rose soil is a type of well-drained soil used for optimal rose health. Scoop the soil with a garden shear, and dump it into your hole. Continue doing this until the hole is completely full. Mulch helps reduce stress on the plant, conserve water, and encourage healthy growth. Scoop mulch with your garden tool or shovel, and spread it over your soil. Leave about 1 in (2.5 cm) between the base of the stem and the mulch. Place your gardening hose at the base of your rose bush, and water your roses for a minute or so until they are thoroughly saturated. Watering your flowers right after you plant them helps the roots take to the new soil.


Plant shade-loving perennials and shrubs. Let the sun shine through. Avoid watering your lawn excessively. Give your lawn enough water to thrive.

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Grass does not grow well in areas of heavy shade, but regrettably, moss does. If you cannot control the amount of shade your lawn receives, try planting flowers and other plants that thrive in shaded areas to prevent moss from growing instead. Plants that love shade include astilbe, brunnera, heuchera, hostas, hellebore, ferns, hydrangea, pulmonaria, and tiarella. There are other shrubs and flowers that do well with shade, as well. Simply look for shade-loving plants the next time you visit a gardening store or plant nursery. Moss grows well in the shade, but most normal varieties of grass do not. If you want to make your lawn healthier, consider clearing away removable obstacles from your yard so that more natural sunlight can reach your grass.   Keep piles of firewood, bricks, or other debris inside storage areas like your garage or garden shed. When building a new shed, think about how the position of the structure may cast shade over the lawn. Trim large trees and heavy shrubs so that more light can peek through. Moss thrives in areas of heavy moisture. If your lawn is doing poorly for other reasons and is already vulnerable to moss, excessive watering will only hasten the arrival of moss.   You should especially avoid watering your lawn at night in the early fall or spring, during which moss growth is most persistent. If your lawn is naturally soggy, try improving its ability to drain by changing the grading of the lawn, aerating the lawn, dethatching the lawn, or installing subsurface drain lines. While too much moisture will create the ideal conditions for moss, too little moisture can weaken your grass and make your lawn more vulnerable to moss, too. When lawns are too dehydrated, the grass turns brown and weak. It may become too weak to respond to rain or other moisture when it does arrive. As a result, once it rains, the moss grows quickly while the grass continues to die.


Plant shrubs and trees with plenty of vertical branches for nesting. Grow nesting plants that are 5 ft (1.5 m) tall or higher. Plant thistle and tall grasses for nesting material. Grow colorful flowers Add a birdbath to provide fresh water in your yard.

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Yellow finches make their nests near the tops of these plants. They prefer spots where 2 or 3 branches fork, forming a bowl that provides plenty of support for a new nest. These spots are usually covered from above by a cluster of leaves or needles but visible from below.  Finches often build nests among dogwoods, elderberries, buttonbushes, hawthorns, Monterey pines, willows, fruit trees, and even tall thistles. Watch areas that already have these sorts of trees and shrubs. You may be able to spot some finches without putting these plants directly on your property. The best areas are large and secluded with lots of sunlight. Finches generally make their nests between 3 ft (0.91 m) to 10 ft (3.0 m) off the ground. It protects the nests from cats and other predators. Set your feeders near areas with taller shrubs and trees to have a better chance of attracting finches. Give new shrubs and trees plenty of space to grow. Yellow finches are easier to spot in more open spaces. Yellow finches love thistle plants, which also double as a food source. Milkweed, cattails, and cottonwood are a few other types of plants that attract finch nests. However, you may see finches in your area even if you aren't able to grow these plants. Finches are adaptable and will use other material they find as needed. Many types of thistle grow quickly and are considered invasive. Check your local regulations for restrictions on growing thistle and try to choose a type that occurs naturally in your area. to serve as a bright food source. Black oil sunflowers attract many types of birds, including finches. Yellow finches also eat seeds from asters, purple coneflowers, and black-eyed Susans. Other colorful flowers, including daisies, cosmos, marigolds, poppies, and zinnias, are like beacons for these birds.  Some people swear by yellow flowers. While they do attract finches, birds have sharp eyes capable of noticing any type of bright color. Don't deadhead these flowers after their blooms fade. Finches feed on seeds from marigolds,...


Plant the chrysanthemums after the danger of frost is over. Dig a hole that’s twice the size of the roots of the plant. Space the chrysanthemums 18–24 inches (46–61 cm) apart, if applicable. Cover the roots and empty spaces with fresh soil. Water the chrysanthemums at least once a week. Feed the mums liquid fertilizer every 4-6 weeks, if desired.

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Transferring your chrysanthemums from a pot into the ground can be a delicate process, so make sure the soil is nice and toiled and there’s no danger of cold weather that might damage the plant. Use a shovel to create a hole for the plant that’s the same depth as the pot but twice as wide. This will ensure the chrysanthemums have plenty of room for their roots. Place the chrysanthemum carefully into the hole. If you’re planting several different sections of mums, place them 18–24 inches (46–61 cm) apart so that the roots have space to grow and spread without overcrowding each other. There will be space around the roots after you’ve placed them, so pour soil into these spaces so that the roots are nicely surrounded. Use your hands to pack down the soil a bit so that it’s even with the rest of the ground. Spread a fresh top layer of soil over the roots as well, not just on the sides. Test the soil with your finger to see if it’s dry, and if it is, give the plants a nice watering. They don’t like wet roots so allow them time to dry out between watering. This isn’t required, but it will help keep the chrysanthemums healthy and growing quickly. You can find a liquid fertilizer at your local gardening or home improvement store. Follow the instructions that come with the liquid fertilizer to know how much and how often to feed the plants.


Plant the iceberg lettuce six to eight weeks before the last expected spring frost. Plant iceberg lettuce seeds in a shallow seed tray. Place the seed tray indoors in a sunny area. Keep the soil the seeds are planted in moist soil. Use scissors to cut the lettuce sprouts so there’s only one per cell. Let the lettuce grow indoors for six weeks.

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Don't plant the lettuce during the early winter or summer, or it will struggle to grow because of the extreme temperatures. If you don't know when the last expected spring frost is in your area, look it up online. For example, you could search "average last spring freeze dates for Kansas City." Fill the bottom of each cell of the tray with some standard potting soil before you sprinkle a few seeds into each cell. Cover the seeds with with a light layer of potting soil. Put the tray by a window or in a bright room where the seeds will get around twelve hours of sunlight. If you don't have much direct sunlight, you can use indoor grow lights as well. Check the seed tray every day, and water the seeds whenever the soil feels dry. You want the soil to be moist but not soaked. If there's standing water on top of the soil, the seeds could rot. In five to ten days you should see the lettuce beginning to sprout. Once all of the seedlings have sprouted, cut off the extra sprouts at the level of the soil’s surface. After six weeks, the lettuce plants should be large enough to transplant outside.


Plant the rootstock in pots. Store them in a temperature between 36 and 42 degrees Fahrenheit (2.2 to 5.5 degrees Celsius). Plant your rootstock in a safe place where you can watch the trees carefully for signs of insects, deer or other damage. Remove any shoots that extend from the rootstock.

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Keep them in a cool, moist area. They can also be packed into sphagnum moss in a plastic bag and moistened until they are planted. They will need to remain in this climate for two to four weeks. It should be in full sunlight. You want the scion to flourish, but you don’t want the rootstock to take over.  At first, you can leave some leaves on the rootstock so that nutrients keep flowing up the tree until the graft is successful. However, if you see an actual branch start to form on the trunk of the rootstock, remove it; this will help encourage the scion to grow. Once the scion really starts to grow and new leaves appear above the graft, remove any further growths from the rootstock, below the graft. This removal will help the plant thrive with growth on the scion, rather than the rootstock. The rootstock will keep trying to grow its own branches, and you need to remove them for as long as the tree lives.


Plant the rose cuttings at any point throughout the year. Create holes with a stick or pencil for the cuttings. Place the cuttings into the soil. Keep the rose cuttings moist. Monitor the rose cuttings to ensure they’re hydrated and taking root.

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Some people like to plant them during the cool months, while others wait until the early summer. Rose cuttings should be able to grow during any season. However, keep in mind that they'll need to be constantly watered, so if you plant them during the summer or live in a hot climate, they're going to dry out faster. For this reason, the rainy season might be your best option. Use a stick or pencil to make a hole in the soil for each of your rose cuttings that is 3–4 inches (7.6–10.2 cm) deep. You'll want to make sure the holes are wide enough that they won't wipe off the rooting hormone powder when you push the stems into the soil. Gently push the cutting down several inches into the soil, or half the length of the cutting. Once the cutting is in place, pat down the soil around the stem. For planting multiple cuttings, place them in rows 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) apart. The most important thing for successful rose cuttings is that they remain moist. Water them frequently, several times a day if the weather is warm, and this will help the roots flourish. To ensure that the moisture remains in the soil, you can place a plastic bag around the cutting once you’ve watered it. This creates a mini greenhouse for the roses. Keep an eye on the cuttings to make sure they’re never dried out, as well as to make sure the cuttings are taking root. You can test to see if the roots are growing by gently tugging on the cuttings. You should be able to feel a slight resistance after a week or 2, meaning the roots are growing well.


Plant the rose in the late spring or early summer. Lower the level of moisture of the roses. Dig your hole. Remove the container. Loosen the soil around the root ball. Place the rose bush in the center of the hole. Work the soil mixture around the roots. Water the plant.

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This is typically the time when you will find the roses for sale and when the frost will be guaranteed to be over. These roses are more prone to frost so you will have to plant them in the right season so you don't risk it. If you've kept the roses in a container for a while or if they're just very moist, wait until the moisture goes down a bit so that you can plant them more easily. If the roses are too moist, the roots won't grow as much and you may lose some of the roses when you transfer them out of the container. The hole should be as deep as the plant's pot and at least two times as wide. This will ensure that the hole is bigger than the roots of the rose and the earth attached to them so that the roots can spread out. Use a spade or a shovel to dig this hole. Your plant may come in a plastic container or a cardboard container. You will use a slightly different method to remove each.  If you have a plastic container, cradle the main stems of the plant in your hands. Turn the container on its side and gently squeeze the container. Slide the plant free. If you have a cardboard container, first remove the bottom of the container, and then remove the sides when you set the container into the hole. Remove the container off the sides as if you were peeling an orange. This will help expose the roots a little bit and will make it easier for them to grow into the soil in the soil bed. This will also help straighten out any roots that got tangled from growing in the small rose container. “Tickle” the roots by gently scratching them until they loosen. Fill the hole with simple potting soil when you're done. Pat down the soil as you fill in the hole. This will eliminate any air pockets and will help your container roses grow strong. Water the plant, wait for the water to drain, and water it once more to get off to a good start. If you have organic mulch such as bark, pine needles, or wood chips, then you can add this to the top layer to help retain the moisture of the soil.


Plant the seeds during spring or fall. Lay the oat seeds 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) apart in rows. Walk over each row to push the seeds down. Keep the soil continuously moist. Weed the area once your oats start growing.

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When you plant your seeds depends on what you plan to use the oats for. If you're growing oats for food, plant them in the spring so you have a summer harvest. If you're growing oats for ground cover, plant your seeds in the early spring for green manure and plant them in the fall if you’re hoping to get a winter-killed ground cover. It’s best to plant your seeds in evenly spaced rows. Within the row, drop a seed onto the top of the soil every 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm). Continue doing this until you’ve filled the planting area completely. After you’ve dropped all of your oat seeds onto the soil, rake over the soil to smooth it out. The seeds need to be planted less than 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the surface, and walking across them should allow this to happen.  If your soil has a high clay content, avoid walking over it so it doesn't get too compacted. Don't walk over your soil when it's wet. If your soil is wet or easily compacted, you can lay a wooden board over it and walk across the board instead of walking directly on the soil. Stick your fingers about 1 inch (2.5 cm) or so into the soil as often as possible to make sure that it doesn’t feel dry. When it does feel dry, water the oats to encourage them to thrive. Although weeding the area before you plant the oat seeds is beneficial and necessary, you’ll need to continue doing it if you want your oats to thrive. When you water your oats, check for weeds and remove any that have popped up.


Plant trees Plant shrubs and other ground cover. Allow dying trees to remain on your property. Install nesting boxes on trees and fences. Keep pets inside as much as possible.

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near feeding areas. Squirrels use trees to travel safely between areas. The more trees you have, the more likely you are to attract squirrels. Furthermore, squirrels will nest in trees, which means that you may have squirrels for generations to come. Visit a local nursery or tree farm to find already grown trees. Choose trees that are suited to your climate. Squirrels especially like trees that produce nuts and develop hollows for them to nest in. Good trees include willows, aspens, spruces, and pine trees. In addition to trees, squirrels like having shrubs and bushes to hide in if they get scared. Shrubs that produce nuts or berries are especially attractive. This may be an easier and cheaper option than planting trees. Some good bushes and shrubs for squirrels include hazelnut plants, hedgerows, and any berry bush, including mulberry, elderberry, blueberry, and raspberry. If you have a tree that is dying or already dead, let it naturally decay on your land. Squirrels like nesting and hiding food in dead trees. Just make sure that the tree is not in danger of falling on people or buildings. If you're worried about whether keeping a dead tree is safe or not, contact an arborist in your area. They can evaluate the tree for you. Nesting boxes give squirrels a place to live and store their nuts. You can get special nesting boxes for squirrels online. You can also use bird nesting boxes or houses. Mount the box to a tree, fence, or pole. Alternatively, you can hang boxes from branches. To entice squirrels to use the nesting boxes, you can place nuts or sunflower seeds inside. Just remember that you might attract birds and other rodents instead. Dogs and cats can frighten or even hunt squirrels. Try to keep pets out of any areas where you want squirrels. If you have animals that go out into your yard often, try to section off an area just for the squirrels.  Outdoor cats can kill large numbers of squirrels and other wildlife. Consider keeping your cat inside to keep the wildlife safe outside. If you have a large...


Plant trees around your home.

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The trees will help provide shade for you home and, therefore, will help keep your home cooler in the hot summer months. It will not require as much air conditioning to keep it at your desired temperature. Deciduous trees lose leaves in the winter, so they will still allow the sun to come in and help heat your home during the winter months.


Plant trees to prevent landslides. Reduce tillage. Protect weak crops with strip cropping. Practice wet season spelling. Keep soil covered year-round. Control downhill runoff with flumes. Turn a hillside into terraces.

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Tree roots are powerful tools when soil is too eroded or steep to plant. Plant native trees on steep slopes and riverbanks to reduce soil loss.  Bare ground around the tress still needs to be covered in mulch or grass for best results. Keep in mind that older trees will be more effective at preventing landslides than new saplings. It may take some time before your tree develops roots that are strong enough. Deep, frequent tillage creates a layer of compact soil vulnerable to water erosion, topped by loose soil easily removed by wind. Consider a zero-tillage approach using a coulter or other deep planting device. These conservation tillage techniques also reduce the amount of vehicle traffic, and therefore soil compaction. Crops with weak roots or that need to be sparsely planted are more vulnerable to erosion. Plant these in strips, alternating with strips of an erosion-resistant crop such as dense grass or legumes.  Plant the crops so they contour the slope. Plant these crops perpendicular to the prevailing wind if possible. Grazing land cannot remain healthy and erosion-resistant if cattle are allowed to graze year-round. For best results, close off a paddock for the entire wet season to allow grasses to reestablish themselves.  This may not be effective if the other paddocks cannot support the spelled cattle. If possible, keep cattle away from riverbanks and heavily eroded soil at all times. Bare soil is far more vulnerable to erosion than soil with ground cover. Aim for at least 30% ground cover on all grazing land, ideally 40% or more. After you harvest your crops, leave the residue on the soil as mulch. Alternatively, plant hardy winter crops. Runoff is concentrated into a narrower area as it travels across lands. The points where the concentrated runoff reaches a slope are particularly vulnerable to erosion. You can build a paved flume, or lined channel, to lead the water to a safe drainage system. Build these at gully heads as well.  Another option is to build a swale to re-direct the runoff into a...


Plant tulip bulbs. Deter rodents. Water the area thoroughly after all bulbs are planted. Mulch the tulip bed with straw to keep the soil cool.

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Plant the tulip bulbs 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) deep, measuring from the base of the bulb. Remember -- the larger the bulb, the deeper the hole.  Standard tulip planting depth is 6 inches (15 cm); but if you live in an area with a mild winter, planting the bulbs to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm) helps to keep them cooler. Place the bulb into the hole, pointed end facing up. Fill the hole with soil and push down on the surface to firm it up. Space tulip bulbs 5 inches (12 cm) apart. To create a tulip bed, use use 5 bulbs for 1 square foot (90 square cm) of area. Plant all tulips in the bed to the same depth to ensure they all bloom together. If mice and other rodents are a problem in your area, place a deterrent such as holly leaves, kitty litter or gravel into the planting hole. If your rodent problem is very severe, you may need to place the bulbs in a wire cage for protection. Do not water again until the plant leaves start growing. Although tulip bulbs usually dislike excess moisture, this initial watering is necessary to trigger growth. In areas with mild winters, lay the mulch as soon as you are done planting. If you live in an area with cold winters, wait 3 to 4 weeks after planting before mulching to allow the roots to grow a little before the ground freezes.


Plant vegetative barriers. Attract mole predators.

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Certain plants can deter moles from occupying your lawn. You can plant plants like daffodils, marigolds, alliums, and fritillarias.  Castor bean plants are also a known mole deterrent, but they are also poisonous. This can be an effective, hands off solution.  Owls are natural predators to moles and you can attract them to your yard by building or buying a nest box.  Nest boxes look like a large bird house that attaches to a tree high off the ground. Once you assemble the nest box, set it up high in a tree and fill it with straw.  It's only a matter of time before an owl is attracted to it.


Plant your berries. Mutate to Apicot Berry. Mutate to Ganlon Berry. Mutate to Grepa Berry. Mutate to Hondew Berry. Mutate to Kee Berry. Mutate to Kelpsy Berry. Mutate Liechi Berry. Mutate Maranga Berry. Mutate Pomeg Berry. Mutate Qualot Berry. Mutate Salac Berry. Mutate Tamato Berry.

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If you have different berries growing next to each other, there is a chance that the berries will cross-pollinate, yielding you one or more of another berry. This chance is increase with the use of Surprise Mulch.  Plant the berry you got from other trees and then apply Surprise Mulch and wait for it to grow. As it produces crops, you will notice that one or more of the fruits have a different color, indicating that the two trees next to each other have cross-pollinated. Fruits resulting from berry mutation have different stat bonuses, which will be listed below. If held by Pokémon, Apicot Berry raises its SP and Def stat in a pinch. Plant Kelpsy Berry and Wacan Berry next to each other to get Apicot Berry. Remember to apply Surprise Mulch.  Kelpsy Berry can be obtained through mutation only. Wacan Berry can be obtained from Yellow Berry Trees at Route 18. Once planted, it takes 96 hours to grow, and the maximum harvest is 5. Apicot Berry gives spicy, dry, and sour taste. When Ganlon is held by a Pokémon, it raises its defense stat in a pinch. You need Qualot Berry and Tanga Berry to produce a Ganlon Berry. You must also use Surprise Mulch for a more effective cross-pollination.  Qualot Berry can be obtained through mutation only. Tanga Berry can be found at the Route 22, green berry trees. Ganlon Berry takes 96 hours to grow once planted. The maximum harvest is 5 and minimum is 1. It has dry, sweet, and bitter taste. Grepa Berry can be used on a Pokémon to make it more friendly; however, it decreases its base SP and DEF stat. You need Aguav Berry and Figy Berry to get this berry.  Aguav Berry restores the user's HP in a pinch when held but will cause confusion if it hates the taste. You can obtain this berry at Route 6, green berry trees. Figy Berry, just like Aguav Berry, restores the user's HP in a pinch when held by a Pokémon but will cause confusion if it hates the taste. You can find this fruit at Route 21, red berry trees. The plant only takes 32 hours to grow and start producing 1–5 fruits. Grepa has...


Plant your ginger in well-drained soil. Fertilize your ginger plant every 2 weeks. Kill off nematodes with crop rotation or solarization.

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Ginger grows best in soil that drains easily and rarely has water sitting on its surface. Find a good spot for planting by watching how the soil responds after a rain soak. If the water pools on the surface for hours afterward, then consider another space or add more drainage. A ginger rhizome should be firm to the touch when pulled from the ground. If your rhizome feels soft or mushy, then it's possible that it was waterlogged in the soil. When you water your ginger for the first time, mix in a slow-release fertilizer. Then, in 2-week intervals, water your plant with a liquid fertilizer. Carefully read and follow the instructions on the fertilizer packages to get the best results and to be safe.  If there is a lot of organic matter in your soil, you won't have to fertilize. Try to choose an organic fertilizer to minimize the exposure to chemicals. Consider using fertilizer if your rhizomes are stunted. If your ginger is tiny when harvested, then it's possible that they did not receive enough nutrients. Root knot nematodes are tiny worms who can infect and damage your ginger crop. To get rid of them, once you've removed your ginger, plant a brassica genus plant, such as broccoli or kale, in the same soil. You can also heat up the soil around your ginger plant (prior to harvesting) by circling the base of the shoots with a plastic sheet to trap the sun's rays.  If your ginger rhizomes look excessively lumpy with large pits, these are signs of a nematode infestation. If you don't treat the soil by rotation and continue to plant in the same area, then your future ginger crops will likely suffer from these pests, too. They are based out of the soil.


Plant your roses in a patch of well-drained soil. Enhance your growing soil with organic amendments. Mulch around your roses to help them retain moisture. Water your roses 1-2 times a day. Deadhead spent blooms to stimulate new growth. Treat your roses at the first sign of disease. Prune your roses during their dormant period.

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Loose, crumbly soils do a better job of allowing water to pass through, which means your roses won’t be in danger of rotting or becoming oversaturated. This is essential for helping your roses thrive, as they require much more moisture than other types of flowers. After watering your roses, you should notice the soil beginning to dry out in a matter of hours.  Most varieties of roses prefer a soil with a pH between 5.5-7. You can test the pH of your soil using a home soil testing kit, which are typically available at gardening centers, greenhouses, and plant nurseries.  If you live somewhere with wet, soggy conditions year-round, consider mixing one-third sand or gravel into your growing soil to improve drainage. Spread 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of a natural material like garden compost, cow or mushroom manure, or peat moss over your soil during the spring and summer when the most growth occurs. These additives are full of nitrogen, phosphorus, and other nutrients that roses need to grow healthy and vibrant.  Following the first growing season, continue feeding your roses regularly every 1-2 months. Consult with a horticultural specialist at your local gardening center or greenhouse to find out what amendments will be most beneficial for the species of roses you’re cultivating. Apply a layer of mulch 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) thick over the entire bed, leaving 5–6 inches (13–15 cm) around the base of the plants exposed for ventilation. Any type of packaged commercial mulch will do just fine, or you can spend some time shopping around for mixtures that have been formulated specifically for use on roses.  For a thriftier approach, try recycling garden waste like leaves, wood chips, grass clippings, or even small stones into useful mulch. Be prepared to lay down new mulch once a year in the spring, or whenever the original layer becomes thinner than about 2 inches (5.1 cm). The exact amount of water they’ll need depends largely on their species and size (as well as unique soil conditions). Your best bet is to wet...


Plant your seeds in "hills. Plant pumpkins in widely spaced rows. Cover the planted seeds with compost.

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" Build a small mound of dirt and plant the seed 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) deep. The hill helps improve soil drainage and allows the sun to heat the soil faster, speeding up germination.  Plant 2 or 3 seeds within a few inches of one another, in case one doesn't sprout for some reason. It doesn't matter which end of the seeds points up. If the seeds are viable, they will grow either way. If your pumpkin variety grows along creeping vines, space the hills in the same row 12 ft (3.7 m) apart, and space the rows 6 to 10 ft (1.8 to 3 m) apart, depending on variety size. "Bush-type" varieties that grow on shorter vines need 8 ft (2.4 m) of space in all directions. If you composted the soil before planting, you can skip this step. If not, add a thin layer of compost or mulch in the areas where you planted seeds. The compost will help keep weeds out and nourish the seeds. With proper care, the pumpkin plants should sprout within about a week.