Watch what you eat. Eat well-balanced meals. Eat the right kind of fat. Drink plenty of water.

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A large part of getting a better butt, and a better body in general, is diet. If you don't combine exercise with healthy eating, you won't get good results. To get the best results, calculate your recommended caloric intake. You need energy to work out. If you want to lose weight, consume fewer calories. If you want to gain weight, consume more. Either way, make sure you are balancing your work out with the amount of calories you consume. You need protein to gain muscle, but you need carbohydrates for energy. Don't focus too heavily on one or the other. To get the most out of your diet, make sure you know how much of each you need.  About 15% of your daily caloric intake should come from protein, and about 55% should come from carbohydrates.  Lean proteins, such as chicken and fish, are better for you than red meat. Incorporate a vegetarian meal two or three times a week to mix things up.  Eat whole grains, sweet potatoes, and whole wheat breads for a good source of energy. You need a certain amount of healthy fats to maintain good health. Good fats are usually liquid at room temperature. Fats such as olive oil, flaxseed oil, and safflower oil are good. If a fat is solid at room temperature, such as butter, avoid it. Water is necessary to keep the body hydrated. Aim for a glass of water for every 20 minutes of exercise.


Watch where they urinate. Keep an eye on bowel movements. Measure how much they are eating.

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Cats, as you probably know, are meticulous cleaners. This affinity for cleanliness extends to their waste. They will use a litter box if it is provided, only eliminating waste outside this box or other designated area (like loose sand or earth in the yard) in times of distress.  Peeing outside a litter box is a sign that something is wrong rather than an act of rebellion. The cat may be ill or highly stressed, and when you see this behavior, you need to pay attention. Do not attempt to punish a cat who urinates outside its bathroom area. The cat isn't trying to make a mess—it is trying to communicate that it needs help. Punishment will further stress and frighten the cat. There are other reasons a cat may choose to defecate outside the litter box, such as discomforts. Make sure you eliminate these before concluding that your cat is stressed. Aside from location of urination, you should watch for diarrhea and constipation. Changes in a cat's environment cause stress, and bowel movements are often affected.  You can spot cat diarrhea by its soft, watery texture and either light brown or dark brown color. If there is blood in the diarrhea, you actually don't need to worry about it unless there is a very large amount of blood.  Take your cat to the vet if it persists in passing diarrhea stools, or can't pass stools at all, for more than a few days. One response to stress in a cat is a loss of interest in food. Cats often become solitary and avoid things they usually enjoy when stressed, including food and mealtimes.  Cats don't go on fasts like humans sometimes do, so avoiding food is a warning that something is wrong. If you leave your cat a bowl of food as you leave the house for the day, keep an eye on how much is left in it when you get home. If someone else feeds the cat, tell them to carefully observe the cat's eating habits each day if you suspect the cat is stressed.


Watch your body language. Keep saying no. Be kind about it.

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One way to avoid sending signals that will lead your guy friend on (make him think that you like him) is to send non-romantic signals with your body language. Body language signifies whether or not you care, are lying, and how much you’re listening.  Body language includes eye contact, facial expressions, tone of voice, posture, timing, and touch. Use this knowledge to send signals of friendship instead of romance, such as maintaining a conversational distance of 3 ft (1 meter), refraining from physical touch, and sitting across a table for lunch or dinner instead of on the same side.  Avoid flirting, which is a combination of body language and conversation meant to attract a partner, usually for amusement rather than with serious intent. Don’t make long, deep eye contact, touch unnecessarily, or try to engage in witty banter. Your guy friend may ask you out repeatedly; keep saying no. Even if he doesn’t keep asking you out, say no through your actions by having firm boundaries about when you will spend time with him and how often you will use your cell phone to communicate with him. Restricting time spent and using body language cues will help you to keep saying no even if he doesn’t keep asking. You want to keep him from being your boyfriend, not end the friendship altogether. Be kind in your rejection. Don’t make faces when he asks you out (such as humor or disgust), and be honest. Try to get things back to the way they were as soon as you can after you turn him down. You may feel weird about him at first, but after repeated interactions similar to the way it was before he asked you out, you will eventually feel more comfortable.


Watch your cat’s tail. Look at your cat’s eyes. Notice other body language. Identify communicative behaviors.

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Like dogs, cats communicate with the positioning and movement of their tails.  Knowing the signals of tail position in conjunction with vocalizations can help you understand the needs and wants of your cat.  Some common tail positions include:  Tail straight up with a curl at the end: This indicates happiness. Tail twitching: Your cat is excited or anxious. Fur on tail sticking up or bushy: Your cat is excited, playful, or feels threatened. Tail vibrating: The cat is very excited and happy to see you. Tail fur sticks straight up while the tail curls in the shape of an N: This is a sign of extreme aggression and may be present during fighting or self-defense. Tail fur sticks straight up but the tail is held low: Your cat feels aggressive or frightened. Tail held low and tucked under the rear: Your cat feels frightened. Gazing into your cat’s eyes can help you bond with him/her and read his feelings.  Be aware, however, that direct staring without blinking may be interpreted as a position of aggression that makes your cat uncomfortable.  If your cat’s pupils are dilated, he/she is feeling either very playful or excited or quite fearful or aggressive; use other behavior cues to determine which it is.  A cat staring into your eyes indicates that he/she trusts you and is comfortable around you. A cat slowly blinking his/her eyes may be showing affection, indicating the cat is comfortable with whoever might be around him/her. Since cats are more "fluent" than humans in body language, certain gestures will accompany vocalizations to reinforce their message.  A cat lifting her nose and tilting his/her head back slightly is saying "I acknowledge you." Cats sitting in windows may greet you in this manner as you walk by. A cat may lay his/her ears back if he/she feels fear, anxiety, or playfulness.  This may also be seen when cautiously sniffing something he/she wants to know more about. A cat who flicks his/her tongue out slightly and licks his/her lower lip is showing that he/she is worried or apprehensive. Some of a...


Watch your child for unusual repetition of behaviours. Notice how your child plays. Recognize special interests and favorite objects. Notice a need for routine. Look for heightened and diminished sensitivity to sensations.

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While all kids enjoy repetitive play to some degree, autistic children will exhibit strong repetitive behaviours such as rocking, hand-flapping, rearranging objects, or repeating sounds over and over again, called echolalia. These can be essential for self-calming and relaxation.   All children partake in some verbal mimicry until the age of three. An autistic child may do this more often, and beyond the age of three  Some repetitive behaviours are called self-stimulation or "stimming," meaning that they stimulate the child’s senses. An example of this is if your son wiggles his fingers in front of his eyes to stimulate his vision and amuse himself. Another example of stimming happens when the child hums to the exact or near-exact pitch of an external noise (also known as auditory stimulus or stimuli) of something that buzzes or hums that the child can hear, like a bumble bee, a lawn mower, a chainsaw, or even a vibrating cell phone. Autistic children may not engage in visible imaginative play, preferring to organize objects (e.g. organizing toys or building a city for their dolls instead of playing house). The imagination is occurring inside their head.   Try breaking the pattern: rearranging the dolls they are lining up or passing in front of them while they are trying to walk in a circle. An autistic child will be noticeably bothered by you interfering. Autistic children may be able to engage in imaginative play with another child, especially if that child takes the lead; however, these children will usually not do it on their own. Intense and unusual obsessions with everyday household objects (such as a broom or string) or, later, facts, may be a sign of autism.  An autistic child may develop a special interest about a topic, and gain an extraordinary depth of knowledge. Examples include cats, baseball statistics, The Wizard of Oz, logic puzzles, and checkers. A child may "light up" or open up when asked about these subjects. A child may have one special interest at a time, or a few. They can change as...


Watch your child walk. Look for ingrown toenails. Check their feet for warts. Watch out for flat feet. Look for bowlegs.

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No two kid’s feet are the same and walking differently does not necessarily mean there’s a development problem. But keep your eyes open for any abnormal gaits or walking styles.  Common problems include intoeing, outtoeing or clubfoot. These problems usually correct themselves but if you have a concern, make sure to consult your doctor during your next check-up.  Common acute injuries in children and adolescents consist of friction blisters, wounds to the sole of the foot, and stubbed toes. Making sure you trim your child’s toenails properly can help their toenails stay healthy. Always be sure to cut the nail straight across and not rounded.  Cutting improperly can cause ingrown toenails. An ingrown toenail occurs when one or both sides of your child’s nail begins to break through and grow into the skin of the toe. If you notice an ingrown toenail, never try to fix it yourself. Call your doctor and make an appointment.   Never cut into the toenail too far. This can lead to an ingrown toenail as well. Sometimes ingrown toenails are so painful/tender that they bleed and become infected. If this is the case, you need to take your child to see a Podiatrist. He/She will cut the nail out including part of the nail bed, this will allow for the nail to grow back in naturally and comfortably. Warts are viral, contagious callous looking bumps and can be painful. They can be relatively common in kids and most often appear on the bottom of their feet.   There are many at-home treatments for warts, but if they’re on your kid’s feet, it would be best to let a doctor have a look to prevent their spread or pain. Topical salicylic acid and cryotherapy with liquid nitrogen are the most common treatments for plantar warts.  Cryotherapy involves the use of liquid nitrogen.  The doctor will apply nitrogen to the wart to freeze if off.  Sometimes the doctor has to cut wart first so that the nitrogen penetrates the root of the wart.  Often if warts are involved you may need to get multiple applications of cryotherapy. If the arch...


Watch your dog as it moves around and see if it ‘bunny hops’. See if your dog has a hard time getting up or lying down. Monitor your dog’s activity and see if it decreases. Listen for an audible clicking sound when your dog moves. Check to see if your dog is willing to climb up stairs. Check your dog for rashes caused by excessive grooming. Look for pressure calluses and sores on your dog’s body. Feel your dog’s back legs to see if it has lost muscle mass.

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Dogs that have painful hips take shortened steps and tend to hold their rear legs farther forward under their bellies. This can lead to ‘bunny hopping’, which means your dog is holding its back legs together and hopping rather than running in long strides like normal. Watch your dog to see if it:  Swivels its hips a lot when it walks Holds its back legs together so that when it walks its back legs hop in a bunny-like fashion Limps or has other abnormal movements Tips over easily Has a change in character, such as unusual grumpiness, which may be a sign of pain Pain caused by hip dysplasia can get worse the longer your dog remains in a resting position. This is particularly true in the morning after your dog has slept all night. Because of this, you might notice that your dog:  Hesitates to lie down if it is standing up Has a harder time getting up if it is lying down Seems stiffer in the morning or when the weather is cold A reduced amount of physical activity is 1 of the most common signs of pain caused by hip dysplasia. All dogs slow down as they get older, but a decrease in activity should not occur until your dog is an advanced age. If your dog is not ill or overweight, it should maintain roughly the same activity levels from when it turns 1 to well into its mature years. Look for:  A lack of interest in going on runs or doing other physical activities with you Lying down rather than running around in the backyard Getting tired more easily when playing fetch Preferring to sit rather than stand and walk when on the leash The term ‘creaking bones’ can be applied to a dog with hip dysplasia. You might notice a clicking sound when your dog moves. This is its bones clicking and loosening up. Listen for this noise when your dog:  Gets up after lying down for a while Walks Runs You might notice that your dog suddenly has a harder time, or is hesitant to climb, stairs that it has never had a hard time navigating in the past. This is because hip dysplasia makes it harder for your dog to climb up stairs or walk up...


Watch your dog for excessive scratching or chewing. Examine your dog’s skin for tiny, red, raised bumps. Check your dog’s fur to spot adult fleas. Have your dog stand on a white towel and brush its coat. Use a flea comb and soapy water to check your dog’s coat for flea dirt. Look in your dog’s mouth to see if its gums are pale.

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Flea bites are extremely itchy, so the first sign of a flea infestation is usually seeing your dog scratching or chewing itself more than usual. Other behavioral signs of fleas might include head shaking, hair loss, scabs, or hot spots. Flea bites are usually smaller than other insect bites. This means they can be hard to spot, so you’ll have to look carefully.  Some dogs may have a stronger reaction to a flea’s saliva, causing a larger red area and more severe irritation.  You may notice small red dots on your own skin, which could also be flea bites. Use your fingers to part your dog's fur so that you can see its skin, looking for signs of adult fleas. Fleas tend to prefer the base of the tail, the abdomen, and behind the ears, but they can be found anywhere on the dog.  Adult fleas are about the size of a pencil lead. They are small, flat-bodied insects, and they range in color from reddish-brown to black. Keep in mind that fleas will move away from your fingers as you search your dog's fur, making them hard to spot. Most fleas live in the environment around the dog, so they may be hard to find in your dog's fur if it only has a mild infestation. Brushing your dog may agitate any fleas which might be present. If they jump off of your dog, you should be able to easily spot them on the white towel. Place the flea comb on your dog's coat, then apply slight pressure until the comb comes in contact with your dog's skin. Carefully brush through your dog's coat, making sure the comb stays in contact with its skin through the entire stroke.  After each pass, examine the comb for fleas and flea dirt, then dip the comb into a bowl of warm soapy water to clean the comb. Flea dirt, or flea droppings, look like small black flecks, but they actually contain dried blood. If you dip the flea comb into a bowl of soapy water, you should see the flecks slowly change back to red. If the flecks remain black after being added to water, it’s probably regular dirt. You can also place the flecks on a damp cotton pad and monitor...


Watch your dog. Part and inspect your dog's fur. Identify that you are dealing with a hot spot. Check areas surrounding the hot spot. Contact your vet.

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Notice if your dog scratches or licks a particular spot constantly. This is usually a sign that he is suffering from some sort of skin irritation. Examine more closely the problem area you have identified. Hot spots can be difficult to see with the naked eye because they tend to spread under the cover of the dog's fur. Usually by the time you notice them, hot spots are well established and growing rapidly. Hot spots are red, moist, hot and irritated rashes. Other identifiers of hot spots include discharge and an unpleasant odor.  Hot spots are most commonly found on a dog's head, hip or chest area. Dogs with long hair and thick coats are most commonly affected. Dogs who are not groomed regularly and have matted coats are also prone to developing hot spots, as are dogs who swim or are frequently in the rain.  Dogs with hip dysplasia or anal sac disease are also more likely to suffer from hot spots because they tend to lick the skin on their hind end. If you do identify a hot spot, take some time to carefully check the rest of the dog’s skin. Part the fur in the area surrounding the hot spot and examine for any other moist or reddened areas. All spots need to be treated immediately and, if possible, you should try to ascertain the underlying cause of the hot spot (flea bite, scratch, allergy, etc.). If this is your dog's first hot spot, seeing a vet is crucial. Your vet can give you an accurate diagnosis and develop an appropriate treatment plan.


Watch your hamster to see if it's breathing. Try to detect a heartbeat. Ignore body heat as an indicator between hibernation and death. Check the hamster's body for stiffness.

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If hibernation is a possibility, watch your hamster very closely for several minutes. Look for signs of breathing. Be aware that the whole of the hamster's body systems slow down, so the breathing rate can become as slow as one breath every two minutes. Watch the hamster for more than two minutes because it's possible to blink and miss that one breath. If you watch for just two minutes, and you could wrongly assume the hamster is dead. If you don't see the hamster breathing then feel for a heartbeat. The heart rate of a hamster can slow down significantly. It can be just four beats a minute, or one beat every 15 seconds. It can be difficult to find a hamster's heart beat because they are so tiny. To do this use your forefinger and thumb of one hand and place them on either side of the hamster chest just behind its elbows. Apply gentle pressure, sufficient that you could hold the hamster this way to stop it running away but without hurting it. Wait patiently and feel for a heartbeat against your finger tips. Don't worry it the hamster feels cold. This doesn't automatically mean it's dead. The hibernation process is triggered by chilling and its body temperature will drop to match the environment. One difference that indicates death is rigor mortis. If the hamster feels stiff and hard like board, then he may have rigor mortis, which is a sign of death.


Watch your health. Eat food. Avoid radiation.

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After joining a server or creating your own, your character will spawn at random areas of the map. You can find the status bar at the lower right of your screen. At the top part is where you can find your health. A very simple text of “Health: 100.”  You can reduce the amount of damage you receive by wearing armors. Health can be restored by eating cooked food. If your Health reaches 0, your character will die, and then a window will appear, making you choose to respawn (respawn near the place you died or in random part of the map) or go back to the camp. When you die, all the items in your inventory will be dropped, including the basic tools you have when you first started the game. Players who killed you can loot your body. Aside from players, you will be facing wild animals as well, so be careful during your travels. Just like in Minecraft, 7 Days to Die, and other multi-survival game these days, food has become a necessity. Calories, found under your health, determines the food and water satisfaction of your character. Your max calories is 1,500, and then this then gradually decreases as your character moves.  Once your calories reaches 0, your health will slowly decrease until your character dies. To simply put, calories is your hunger meter. When it turns night, and you do not have any type of clothing, your character will have a cold effect. In this state, you will lose calories faster than normal. If you couldn't find any clothing, the best way to fight off the cold effect is by making a campfire. Standing near the campfire will give you the comfort effect, which makes your hunger to deplete slower. To have clothing, you can either craft it or loot it from enemies or supply boxes around the world. Rads can be found at the bottom-right corner of your screen, just below the calories. Rads displays the amount of radiation you have absorbed. Radiation can be noticed by a Geiger counter sound (rapid clicking).  Once your character is exposed to radiation, your hunger will go down faster. Once your...


Watch your opponent. Plan your takedown move. Execute your takedown quickly. Recover quickly to prepare your next move.

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Observe your challenger’s movements, and pay attention to how he reacts to your motions. Watch for times when he gets off balance or exposes himself by raising his center of gravity.  Move around the mat keeping a constant eye on your opponent. Test your opponent’s reactions by moving towards him from different angles. Look for weaknesses in the way he responds to your movement. Depending on the type of wrestler you are facing, different moves may provide more success for a takedown.  A “Duck Under” requires you to move under your opponent’s arm as he approaches and quickly grab him around the waist from behind. Keep one arm straight out in front of your opponent as you move behind your him; wrap your other arm around his waist from behind. Once you have a hold on your opponent, flip him onto the mat by falling back and swinging him with you. A “Double Leg” takedown involves grabbing both legs of your opponent around mid thigh and pulling them up and towards you to force your opponent onto his back. Approach your opponent from the front and grab both legs at once. Be careful not to lower your head or you become vulnerable. Use a “Single Leg Takedown” to quickly take a shot at your opponent’s front leg as you face each other, lift it off the ground and knock him down by attacking the other leg. Grab the leg that is closest to you and pull it up. Use your feet to sweep his other foot off the mat while you push him off balance with the leg you are holding. Move fast to prevent your opponent from having time to counter your move. Slow, hesitant motions are easier to anticipate and block.  Commit to the takedown, and follow through with your attack. Don’t stop your move until the referee calls the point or a penalty. After a takedown you need to reset your stance quickly. Expect your opponent to counter attack to score against you after a takedown.  Set your legs in a defensive position. Be ready to take a shot at your opponent if he provides an opening. Prepare yourself to counter any aggressive moves by your opponent.


Watch your pup to see if it has a hard time moving around. Look to see if your puppy has a hard time getting up after playing. See if your pup or young dog is hesitant to jump up on things. Watch your young dog to see if it has a wobbling, unsteady gait. Look at how your puppy stands and see if it puts more weight on its front legs.

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If your puppy has hip dysplasia, you may begin to see signs of the condition as early as 5 to 10 months of age. In particular, you may notice that your puppy has a harder time moving around than other puppies. It may:  Take shorter steps or have less of a stride Hold its back legs together and use its front legs more so that it can hop with its back legs, much like a bunny While playing might be fine for your puppy, you should still keep an eye on it to see how it handles resting after play. A pup that has hip dysplasia will be more inclined to lie down for longer, and may act like it doesn’t want to get up after it has rested. This is because its hips become stiff when resting after activity. If your pup has hip dysplasia, it will most likely avoid jumping up on couches, your lap, etc. This is because its back legs are not as strong as its front legs, and it could hurt to exert enough force on its back legs to jump up onto things. Pat the couch next to you. If your puppy looks like it wants to jump up but doesn’t, or tries to and then whines in pain, it may have hip dysplasia. As mentioned above, puppies and young dogs who have hip dysplasia have a harder time moving around than other dogs. This might lead to your dog developing an unsteady walk that could be described as:  Wobbling Weaving Tipping over a lot Puppies and young dogs with hip dysplasia tend to stand with their rear legs slightly forward, so that their front legs can support more of their weight. This can lead to their forearms being much more developed than their hind legs. When your puppy is standing:  Check to see if its hind legs are pressed slightly forward. Feel its forearms, which may be muscular, compared to its hind legs, which might feel bony.


Watch yourself talk in a mirror. Show your teeth. Lift up your soft palate. Keep the tongue forward and down. Stand up straight. Speak slowly and steadily.

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Talk at a mirror as you watch the movements of your mouth, jaw, tongue, and lips. Make these movements as big and noticeable as possible. This will improve your enunciation, and help you identify which sounds are difficult for you. Continue to watch yourself in the mirror as you practice the steps below. Surprisingly, this can help a lot. Showing your teeth gives your lips more space, tightens your cheeks, and creates a larger opening for sound. These changes improve your audibility and intelligibility. And if you don't believe it, try saying "audibility and intelligibility" with your lips together, and then with your teeth showing. Aim for a pleasant, happy expression, but not a full-blown smile. Your cheeks shouldn't feel sore after holding a short conversation. That's the soft part in the back of the roof of your mouth. Singers are trained to raise the soft palate in order to achieve a fuller, more resonant tone. Try inhaling gently as you make a soft k sound, and your soft palate will rise. A small, unvoiced yawn complements the inhale, by warming up different muscles around your soft palate. Avoid exaggerated yawning or gulping to achieve this. Anything more than a gentle effort is counterproductive. Obviously, your tongue will be moving while you speak, but it's still worth practicing a neutral position that doesn't interfere with the passage of sounds. Try hanging your tongue out of your mouth, then gradually pulling it back until it is just behind the lower teeth, touching their base. Your tongue can produce many vowel sounds with minimal movement from this position, mostly by raising and lowering the middle of the tongue instead of the tip. This is especially important while you are singing, or when trying to address certain types of lisp. This allows you to breathe better. Sound is created by the air being forced out of your lungs, so the clearer your breathing, the clearer your speech. Look straight ahead, so your jaw is flat instead of lowered compressing your throat. When talking to someone...


Water as needed during active growth. Let them be. Cut carefully. Wait until the dormant state before cutting back the foliage. Consider a light spring feeding. Divide only when needed.

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Allium bulbs need minimal moisture, but they should get about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week. You may not need to water them during regular periods of rainfall, but you should consider watering them lightly during dry periods. You only need to water the bulbs during their active growth periods—spring, summer, and early fall. Once the plant enters dormancy, you can stop watering it. You shouldn't need to worry about pests, rodents, or diseases when you plant alliums. They are not susceptible to any serious plant diseases, and they actually tend to drive off deer, rodents, and most insects. As such, pesticides and fungicides are not necessary. Since alliums are so good at discouraging garden pests, they are often used as a border plant. Consider positioning alliums around the perimeter of your garden to protect more tempting flowers lying further in. If you decide to pick the flowers for decorative purposes, leave behind as many leaves as possible. The bulb will produce flowers each year but it needs to gather as many nutrients through photosynthesis as possible each season. Its leaves are crucial in this process. Allium flowers can be used in bouquets and similar decorations, just like any other garden flower. Some stalks can have a slight onion scent, but in most cases, the scent isn't noticeable to the human nose. The leaves tend to turn yellow by mid-summer. Once you see them die back on their own, you can bet that the plant is slipping into dormancy. You can cut away leaves and foliage at this point. Do not cut off the foliage after the blooms drop. The leaves still need to gather sunlight to produce energy so that the bulb can be strengthened for next season. While not strictly necessary, it can be a good idea to give the bulbs a light feeding of potash during the early spring, before you see any stems peek through the soil.  For average to good soils, this really isn't necessary. Consider doing it if your soil condition is poor, though. Potash feed will encourage root and bulb formation. It refers to...


Water deeply but infrequently. Provide shade. Keep your grass tall. De-thatch your lawn. Avoid over-fertilizing the lawn. Clear debris in winter. Control weeds in spring Adjust lawn pH

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Dry, sunny lawns are the chinch bugs' ideal home, and drought stress will make it harder for your turf to resist them. The ideal watering schedule depends on your climate and grass species, but start with 1 inch (2.5 cm) a week divided among one to three sessions. A healthy lawn receiving enough moisture should bounce back after you step on it.  Too much water can backfire and make the problem worse, especially with hair chinch bug infestations (found mostly in the northern US and Canada). If you think your lawn is too wet, delay watering until the grass edges just begin to curl.  Moist conditions also encourage naturally occurring Beauveria fungus, a parasite that kills chinch bugs. Chinch bugs are not partial to shaded areas. Put up a shade cloth, or plant trees and bushes to reduce the amount of direct sunlight your lawn gets each day. If your lawn is a light-loving variety, consider shading just the most vulnerable areas: the green grass at the border of expanding yellow patches. St. Augustine grass, the southern chinch bug's favorite food, has excellent shade tolerance. It should thrive under a 30% shade cloth. In general, grass is at its healthiest when allowed to grow to a height of 3–4 inches (7.5–10 cm). This is especially true during a chinch bug infestation, since tall grass will keep the ground dark and moist — two qualities this pest dislikes. If your lawn is in particularly bad shape, you could skip mowing entirely until it recovers. To reduce stress on your grass, use a sharp lawn mower blade and remove no more than ⅓ of the grass blade each mowing. Thatch is the spongy, brown layer of organic material that forms between grass blades and soil. Chinch bugs live in thatch and hibernate in it during cold winters. Aerate your yard once or twice a year to keep thatch levels to ½" (1.25 cm) thick or less. If the thatch is more than an inch thick (2.5 cm), cut through it with a vertical mower or dethatching rake. This is especially important in fall, to reduce areas where chinch bugs can overwinter....


Water each type of plant appropriately. Keep plants bright, hot, and moist rather than dark, cold, and damp. Give it the best water. Avoid trying to water plants on a strict schedule. Avoid misting plants. Water some sensitive plants from the bottom of the plant.

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Giving your plant too little water will result in a scorched plant with crispy leaves. Too much water can lead to mold, fungus, and stinky rot. Understanding what each plant needs will help you give it the right amount of water.   Low Moisture: Many desert plants belong to this group. They don't like high-moisture environments, since they cause mold, fungi, and rot to grow on the plant. With these, provide low humidity and water only when the soil is almost dried out.  Moderate Moisture: Many plants enjoy moderate moisture and humidity. Wait for the soil to dry out a bit (like a half or quarter of the soil) and water thoroughly. Keep an eye out and provide humidity as needed.  High Moisture: Some houseplants are real water babies and love high humidity and soil moisture. These plants do better in a terrarium, vitrine, or indoor water display. A few even can live with their roots submerged in water. If your plant is subjected to high humidity and low temperature and light, it is likely to rot and grow fungus. That means you need to lower your watering levels if the temperature drops. English ivies, English primroses, begonias, and some ferns don't like crowded, damp conditions. Don't place these plants in crowded plant groups or they will get rot and mildew. For practice, use room temperature water that has sat out overnight. However, you can also use lukewarm faucet water if you need to water a plant immediately. If you're not certain of the chemicals in your water or if your plant is sensitive to chemicals, you can use filtered water or spring water. Watch how your plant reacts. Some plants hate fluoride, lime, or salts that are present in water sources. Even the exact same species in the exact same situation in different pots will need water at different times. Treat each plant as a individual. Also, plants higher up on shelves or in hanging pots need more water usually than their counterparts that are lower down. When dealing with plants that require high humidity, it's best to leave the plant alone and...


Water generously after planting. Taper watering off as the plant becomes established. Keep rhizomes uncovered and roots well-aerated. Trim brown or dying leaf matter and the flower stalk.

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After you plant your irises, give them a thorough watering. If conditions are dry, water every 7 to 10 days or as needed during the morning or evening. Assuming you planted your irises in the late summer or early fall, you may stop watering your plants as soon as the weather cools and it begins raining or snowing. One common mistake to avoid with your irises is over-watering. If the rhizome or roots are held in contact with moisture without being given a chance to drain, root rot can set in. This fungal condition can be potentially fatal for the iris and easily spreads to nearby plants, so prevention is key. Over time, your plant will require less and less watering on your part. Once the weather takes a turn for the cooler in the fall, you can stop watering until the next summer growing season. In general, your iris should require less watering with each subsequent summer — for climates with mild summers, it's possible The exception here is for areas with very hot, dry summers. In these cases, some watering may be necessary every summer to keep the iris from drying out. Though irises are quite durable, they can't survive in extreme conditions without help. As the iris grows, you'll want to periodically check to make sure that the rhizome hasn't become covered with dirt, organic matter, or other debris. If it has, gently brush it off without moving the plant itself or disturbing its roots. In addition, make sure that the soil still has good aeration and drainage — if it doesn't, add humus or organic matter as needed. Unlike high-maintenance garden plants, iris leaves don't require pruning or trimming for good growth. In fact, leaving the leaves undisturbed even after the growing season allows the iris to gain more nutrients from photosynthesis for next year's growth. In general, the only sort of trimming you should need to do for iris leaves is to remove brown, dead leaf tissue that has already died — this provides no benefit to the plant. Note that, before winter, you may also want to cut the flower stalk to...


Water in late evening or early morning. Check your lawn's water needs. Water deeply and infrequently. Look for signs of drying. Let cool season grass stay dormant. Water rarely outside the growing season.

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Cool, humid, low-wind conditions distribute water evenly and reduce loss to evaporation. Ideal conditions usually occur between 10pm and midnight, or between 8am and 9am. Some local water departments forbid night watering to prevent waste from sprinklers left on all night. Your watering schedule should be based on grass species, lawn health, heat, and soil conditions. Cool season grasses (bluegrass, ryegrass, fescues) generally need 1–1.5 inches (2.5–3.8cm) per week, rising to 2.25 inches (5.7 cm) in hot, dry weather. Drought-resistant warm season grasses (buffalo grass, blue grama) can last for weeks without watering, even in the summer. Once you have a good guess for how much water your lawn needs each week, read the next step to find out how to divide it among watering sessions.  A local university extension website can teach you how much watering your grass species needs in local weather conditions. To track the amount of water you're using, leave cans or other open containers on your lawn. Shaded grass usually needs less water, but this may not be true if it's competing with tree and shrub roots. This approach encourages root growth, which increases resistance to drought and disease. Each watering session should moisten the soil down to the depth of the lowest existing roots, which tend to be at least six inches (15cm) for a healthy lawn. The drainage rate varies greatly based on soil. Check the depth of moisture 30–60 minutes after watering, or follow this rough guide:   Sandy soil drains fast, and may only need 0.5 in. (1.25cm) of water to reach a 6 inch (15cm) depth. The lawn has less time to absorb this water, so water more frequently to make up for it. Loamy soil takes roughly 0.75 inch (1.9cm) of water to reach a 6 inch (15cm) depth. Dense clay soil drains slowly, and may need 1–1.5 inches (2.5–3.8cm) water to reach 6 inch (15cm) depth. Don't wait until your lawn is brown before you give it more water. Check for wilting, a change in color (becoming more grey, purple, or blue), and for footprints...


Water only as needed. Add a layer of mulch. Fertilize regularly. Watch out for pests. Prune as needed.

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Once the plants are established, you can usually let nature water them. You will only need to water cleome if you are undergoing a drought.  Note that cleome do need to be watered every other day or so while they are still establishing themselves. During this time, keep the soil regularly moist along the surface but do not drench it. If there are puddles on the surface of the soil, you've added too much. After the plants have established themselves, they only need 1 inch (2.5 cm) or so of water per week. Standard precipitation should take care of this, but if not, gently water the plants with a watering can or a light shower setting on a garden hose. Spread a thin layer of mulch around the plants after they establish themselves. The layer should be about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick.  Do not let the mulch touch the stems. If you crowd the stems with mulch, moisture can build and cause stem rot. Mulch can be very helpful to the overall health of your cleome bed. A layer of mulch can prevent weeds from popping through while insulating the soil during chillier weather. Cleome will usually survive without additional fertilizer, but if the quality of your soil is poor, applying a dose of fertilizer once at the beginning of spring and once in the middle of summer can benefit your flowers significantly. Choose a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer labeled for use with garden flowers and apply it as directed on the label. Pests are not a common problem for cleome, but stem boring insects can be an issue, especially if you live in a humid climate.  If you spot stem boring insects or other pests on the plants, buy an appropriate outdoor pesticide labeled for use against such insects. Test the pesticide on a small section of the plant to make sure that it does not destroy the plant itself. Once it seems safe, follow the label instructions and apply the pesticide over all of the infested areas of the plant, focusing on the stem. Once established, cleome will naturally self-sow by dropping seeds. To prevent the plants from...


Water only when the soil dries out. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. Be careful when removing weeds. Watch out for pests and disease.

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The soil should never be allowed to get too soggy since the roots of the plant are easily damaged when waterlogged. As such, you should only give the plants extra water if your area has experienced a drought. Instead of watering the soil in an effort to keep it continually damp, you should only water it if you check the soil and determine that it has dried out at least a full 1 inch (2.5 cm) down from the surface. You can test it by gently sticking your finger down into the soil and feeling for moisture. Even though nitrogen-based fertilizers will make your kidney bean plants look vibrant and leafy, these fertilizers actually do more harm than good since they encourage the plant to send its energy to its leaves rather than its fruits. Large doses of nitrogen will produce an impressively leafy plant that bears very few edible beans.  After the plant gets started, kidney beans actually produce their own nitrogen inside their roots. A fertilizer with high levels of nitrogen will inevitably end up feeding the plant too much nitrogen. If your plants are suffering and in need of more nutrition, use a small amount of organic fertilizer that does not supply a hearty amount of nitrogen. The roots of the plant are quite shallow, so when you dig up weeds, you need to do so carefully to avoid accidentally disturbing or damaging the roots of the kidney bean plant.  Never chop up the weeds around a kidney bean plant using a hoe or trowel. Instead, you should pull the weeds up by hand. You could also help keep weeds out by spreading a 1- to 2-inch (2.5- to 5-cm) layer of mulch on around the plant after it sprouts. Additionally, mulch provides the extra benefit of maintaining adequate warmth and humidity while preventing pods from rotting once they touch the ground. Some garden pests do target kidney beans, and the plant is also vulnerable to a few different diseases.  If you run into problems, you may need to apply an appropriate pesticide or fungicide.  Beetles, slugs, cutworms, and leafhoppers will go after the leaves of...


Water only when the soil is dry once the plants are established. Pack the soil as a taller species grows to offer it support. Deadhead spent flowers to encourage blooms and control reseeding. Check for slugs regularly, and remove any that you find. Protect plants with horticultural fleece during the winter. Sow seeds annually for continuous blooms.

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After a few weeks of sowing seeds or transplanting seedlings, start watering your plants less frequently. Regular rainfall should provide enough water, but check the soil regularly during dry spells. Stick your finger about 2 in (5.1 cm) into the soil, pull it out, and water the bed if it’s so dry that no dirt sticks to your finger. You’re better off watering echium less frequently, since they don't like soggy soil. If you haven’t had rain in 2 or 3 weeks and the leaves are slightly wilted, your plants need water. Otherwise, there's no need to fuss over them. When your towering jewel or pride of Madeira starts producing its spike of flowers, gently pack the soil around the base so it doesn’t topple. If it starts to lean, you might need to tie it to a stake for support. Keep in mind choosing a planting spot near a wall or fence can help protect taller plants from the wind. To deadhead your plants, pluck fading flowers from the central spike before they have a chance to drop a seed. For some species, deadheading can also extend the flowering period from 2 months to 4 months. All echium species self-seed, which means they drop seeds after their flowers fade. A single plant can produce around 2,000 seeds, and your echium might take over your entire garden if you allow them to freely self-seed. Species of echium aren’t prone to many diseases or pests, but they are susceptible to slug and snail infestations. Every few days, hold back foliage and examine your plants’ stems. Look for slugs, snails, irregular holes in the stems, or slime trails.  Remove any organisms you find. If you have an infestation on your hands, purchase pesticide pellets labeled for slugs and snails at your local garden center. Scatter the pellets thinly around your plants according to your product’s instructions. If you find an infestation is getting out of control, you may need to apply an insecticide soap. Follow the product packaging instructions to make sure you use the insecticide safely and correctly. During extended periods of freezing...


Water regularly. Feed your canary pellets. Feed your canary seeds. Feed your canary fruits and vegetables. Feed your canary protein.

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Canaries can die after 24 hours without water. You should have a large water dish in the cage that you refill regularly. Tap water should be good for your canary. However, if you know that your local water standards are poor, consider using bottled water. Pellets are a preferred substitute for seeds, because they are designed to include more of the protein and vitamins that your canary needs. However, if your canary was not raised on a pellets, it will likely refuse to eat them. You can try to transition a canary to pellets, but you must do it slowly and carefully. If you want to transition your canary to pellets put some in with its seeds and slowly, over a period of 4 to 8 weeks, reduce the quantity of seed and increase the quantity of pellets. If your canary still is not eating the pellets, do not stop feeding it seeds. Though they aren't the best source of nutrition for your canary, seeds probably are its favorite type of food. Provide your canary with a seed mix labeled for canaries at the pet store. Feed your canary approximately one teaspoon of food per day. Canaries are not inclined to overeat, so you can feed them slightly more if you believe it is necessary. About 20 -25% of your canary's daily diet should consist of fruits or vegetables. Every day wash and cut some fruit or vegetables into very small pieces. Place less than a teaspoon in a separate dish. Vary the types of fruit and vegetables you feed your canary frequently.  Avocado is poisonous to canaries. Lettuce does not offer sufficient nutrition. Good fruits and vegetables include: apples, apricots, asparagus, bananas, beat, blueberry, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cabbage, cantaloupe, carrot, carrot top, coconut, corn, dates, fig, grapes, grapefruit, kale, kiwi, melons, mango, nectarines, orange, papaya, parsnip, peaches, pear, peas, pepper, pineapple, plum, pomegranate, pumpkin, raspberry, spinach, squash, strawberry, sweet potato, tomato, zucchini. If your canary is on a seed diet it likely is not getting enough protein. A good way to...


Water seeds as needed. Turn the seeds. Feed your seeds. Transplant your seedling when necessary.

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Water the seeds as the soil starts to dry. It should always be moist, but never wet or muddy. Do not water the seeds if the soil is already moist to the touch, as overwatering your plant can be just as harmful as underwatering. After the seeds have sprouted, give your pot a quarter turn each day. This will prevent your seeds from overreaching toward the light, which can cause weaker stems. Once your seeds start to sprout leaves, you will need to ensure they get proper nutrients. Use a half-strength liquid fertilizer on a weekly or every-other-week basis to keep them growing strong. You can increase the strength of the mixture gradually as the plants grow bigger. If you started your seedlings in trays, you will eventually need to transplant them to a pot or outdoors. Likewise, as potted plants grow you may need to move them into larger pots. Monitor your plant to make sure it has plenty of room to grow in the pot. If it is outgrowing its space, transplant it into a larger container.


Water the dill plant a day before you plan to harvest it. Cut dill ferns in the morning, before the sun has dehydrated the leaves. Cut the dill ferns next to the step. Rinse them thoroughly. Gather small bunches of 5 to 10 dill fronds. Buy small brown paper bags. Wrap the paper bag over the dill plant and gather it by the rubber band. Hang the bundles in a dry, well-circulated place on your porch or in your cellar. Harvest your dried dill weed when it crumbles easily. Loosen the seeds from the flower buds and store them in an airtight tin.

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Make sure you sprinkle the plant itself to remove dirt and bugs from the plant. If you want to dry the seeds, you will want to cut all of the flower buds in addition to the ferns. Use sharp kitchen shears. Spin them in a salad spinner, and then pat them dry with paper towels. Give them 3 minutes to air dry while spread out on a kitchen towel. Tie them together at the base using a rubber band. Make sure you have rid the plants of excess water, or they can mold instead of drying. Cut several large slits in the bottom sides of the bags so air can flow through. If you plan to hang the dill inside, you can avoid using paper bags. If it is outside, it is a good way to shelter it from the elements and avoid losing dill that dries and falls.    Ensure each dill plant is upside down. The gathered dill should be away from the side of the bag to encourage airflow. Leave them to dry for 2 weeks. Separate the dried flowers and dried ferns by hand. Crumble the ferns into another tin. Keep them in a dark, dry place.


Water the ivy regularly. Fertilize the ivy plant sparingly. Prune the ivy. Cut back well established English ivy beds. Spray with soapy water.

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English ivy needs about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water every week after the initial planting. This can come from rain or from manual watering. After your ivy is firmly established, you can begin watering less regularly. You may choose to give your English ivy a small amount of fertilizer in the spring. You should not use more than 2 tbsp. (30 mL) per square foot (.09 square meters) of slow acting nitrogen fertilizer. You will want to groom your ivy now and then to maintain a clean and tidy appearance. Simply clip stray branches using garden pruners as necessary to keep the shape and appearance of the ivy that you desire. Every 3-4 years, you will need to do some more extensive trimming of your established ivy beds. This action will encourage new growth and help your English ivy stay healthy. If you notice your plant is less vibrant (drooping leaves or loss of color), take a close look for aphids or spider mites. (Although they are tiny, both types of insects are visible with the naked eye.) You can control (or even prevent) these insects by spraying the plant with mild soapy water.  Combine a few squirts of a mild, chemical-free detergent with filtered water in a spray bottle. Gently mist your plant with this soapy water once a day for three days to rid your plant of aphids and spider mites. Then, to keep the insects away, spray you plant once every 1-2 weeks, or after a heavy rain.


Water the lettuce three to four times a week to keep the soil moist. Add a 2-3 inch (5.8-7.6 cm) layer of mulch over the soil around the lettuce. Apply a 5-10-10 fertilizer to the lettuce every three to four weeks. Cut the lettuce at the soil line to harvest the head.

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Don’t worry about watering this much if you’re experiencing a lot of rain. The goal is to keep the lettuce cool and moist; dried out lettuce may develop a bitter taste or rot. If the surface of the soil looks dry, it hasn't been watered enough. Never water the lettuce more often than this or it might develop rot. You may also want to avoid watering in the evening. Use an organic mulch, like chopped leaves or compost, to keep the lettuce cool and protect it from the heat during the spring and summer. Find a fertilizer at your local gardening center, or use an organic fertilizer like cottonseed meal or fish emulsion. Lightly apply a thin layer of the fertilizer to the soil surrounding the lettuce. If you’d prefer to use a chemical fertilizer, a granular or spray fertilizer works well for outdoor vegetable plants. The lettuce is ready to harvest when it's firm and full grown, or about 6 inches (15.24 cm) in diameter. Store the leaves in the refrigerator for 5-10 days.  Don't wait too long to harvest your lettuce or it could develop a bitter taste. Lettuce doesn't thrive in hot temperatures. You should make sure to harvest the lettuce before temperatures rise above 80 °F (27 °C).


Water the plants only when the soil is dry. Cut the yellow leaves back after blooming is over.

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As the plants begin to grow larger, they’ll use more water. Still only water them when the soil is dry to prevent root rot. You might have to water them more frequently as they grow.  If you’re unsure if the soil is dry, you can touch it with your fingertips. You shouldn't be able to feel moisture. For outdoor hyacinths, if you live in an area that experiences rain during the springtime, keep an eye on the flower beds to make sure the ground is moist. You’ll likely have to water less in springtime because the rain will do it for you! In the late springtime, the hyacinths will stop blooming and their leaves will turn yellow. Use pruning shears or garden scissors to trim back yellow leaves. This helps the plant to conserve energy and get ready for the next blooming season. Otherwise, it will have to wait for the leaves to fall off before storing its extra energy.


Water the plants thoroughly once or twice a week. Mulch the area Stake if necessary. Exterminate pests and mildew. Cut flowers for display. Harvest the seeds.

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Sunflowers have deep roots and prefer infrequent, heavy watering to frequent, shallow watering. Adjust your watering routine on particularly hot or cloudy weeks. Your sunflowers should bloom in mid to late summer, between two and three months after planting. . Once the seedlings are tall enough to mulch without breaking them, cover the soil with a layer of seed-free straw or other mulch to retain moisture and prevent weed growth. Top up the mulch after heavy rain. If you're growing sunflowers as a seed crop or to display in flower shows, mulch with 1.5 inches (4 cm) of well-rotted manure or compost once the plants are 20 in. (0.5 m) tall. If you live in a windy area or your stalks lack strength, consider staking the plants with wood or bamboo stakes to support the weight of the plant. Though relatively free of insect susceptibility, a small gray moth may lay eggs in the sunflower face. Simply pick out the small worms to remove them.  Sunflowers also can contract mildew and rust. If either of these issues occurs, spray your flowers with a fungicide. Deer and birds are also known to eat sunflower plants. Put up netting to prevent these animals from destroying your plants. To enjoy the flowers in a vase, cut the stalk at an angle in the morning before the flower fully opens. Change the water in the vase every other day to keep the flowers looking fresh. If you want edible seeds, cut the flower heads off when they begin to droop, or when the back of the head begins to turn yellow. Hang them upside-down by the stem in a dry, breezy place and cover with cheesecloth or a paper bag to catch seeds as they fall out. For delicious roasted seeds, soak overnight in water and salt. Then drain and place on a baking sheet. Roast in a low-heat oven (between 200°F and 250°F / 90 to 120ºC) until slightly browned.


Water the pom immediately after planting it. Fertilize the pomegranate tree once it has become established. Keep the area around your pom weed-free.

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Doing this helps to settle the soil around the newly planted pomegranate. After the initial watering, water the plant daily until it begins to grow new leaves. New leaf growth is the sign that your plant as settled into its new home. Gradually transition to watering your plant every seven to ten days. When the tree is flowering or producing fruit, give the plant a good, deep watering every week. If it rains, you don't need to water it quite as much. Ammonium sulfate fertilizer works well for pomegranates. Sprinkle about ⅓ of a cup of fertilizer three times throughout the first year of growth (February, May, and September are ideal times to do this). You don't want any weeds or other plants competing with the pom; it is also difficult to weed around the tree when it is low and shrub-like. Keep the area weeded, or lay down some organic mulch around the plant. Mulch helps to fight weeds and grasses while also retaining moisture for the plant.


Water the potatoes deeply 1-2 times a week to keep the ground moist. Cover the base of your plants with 4 in (10 cm) of soil as they grow. Cover the potatoes with a 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) layer of mulch. Harvest your red potatoes 7-8 weeks after planting.

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Potato plants should be wet, but not soaked. Check the moisture level of your plants before you water them. Typically, potato plants get watered up to 2 times a week.  You can use a watering can or garden hose. To check the moisture level, insert your finger 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) into the dirt. If the dirt is dry, you can water your potatoes. When you notice potato sprouts poking above the soil level, replenish your soil or compost. Potatoes grow best when completely underground. Potatoes begin to sprout above the soil in 5-7 days. In addition to replenishing the soil, you should cover your potato plants with mulch to help maintain moisture. Do this after you add more soil to your plants. Pour your mulch over your garden bed, and use a rake to spread it across.  This locks in moisture so your potatoes can grow to optimal size very quickly. If growing potatoes in containers, you can use a garden spade instead of a rake. Red potatoes grow to full size in about 100 days. The potato shoots grow flowers when they are fully grown, and then the flowers fade and wilt when their growth cycle is complete. At this point, you can use a shovel or a garden spade to dig up your potatoes. Use a knife to cut off the roots. Be sure to wash your potatoes thoroughly!


Water the tree Check for sap leakage. Collect fallen pine needles.

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. To start, you'll need to make sure your tree gets lots of water because in the first few hours that it's settling in, it will need plenty and will drink like crazy (possibly a full gallon/3.7 liters on the first day). (Also see Tips below.)  Afterward, you will need to add water almost every day. Not only is regular water good for the tree's vitality, but a well-watered tree is less dry and therefore, less combustible. Make sure you never let the water level go below the base of the tree. Some people put an aspirin in the water to help keep it fresh. Some also add Ginger Ale, Sprite™ or another similar soda drink (fizzy lemonade) to feed their tree. Be careful, though; if you accidentally bump the can whilst watering the tree, you might end up with very sticky presents! It is a good idea to check occasionally for sap that has leaked from your tree onto nearby furnishings or floor coverings. The sooner you catch any sap leakages, the easier they are to remove. Use a dustpan and brush or a handheld vacuum (many needles going into a larger vacuum can easily clog it up; this may even break the machine, whereas a handheld version works well because you are obliged to keep emptying it as you work).  This is a daily ritual, unless you want to have an enormous pile of needles to clean up when you finally move the tree. The needles are unsightly and potentially hazardous for curious pets and infants.     A well-watered tree will lose fewer needles but all fresh trees will lose some needles.


Water the tree every 3-4 days. Fertilize your tree from March to May to prepare it for growing season. Apply soil conditioner every 2 weeks for new plantings. Remove and dispose of foliage, twigs, and fruit with dark spots. Apply a pesticide if you notice pests like mealybugs.

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In the hottest months, you may need to water more often if the soil is dry to the touch or if it appears crumbly.  In the winter, you can water less often as the climate won’t be soaking up as much moisture from the soil. Use compost, animal manure, or a bag of fertilizer from your local nursery. Fertilizing once per month from July to October to encourage adequate flowering.   Avoid putting fertilizer right up against the trunk of the tree, as this can cause collar rot.   A quarter of the amount of fertilizer you would normally use for a citrus plant will be sufficient for the finger lime tree. Spread fertilizer around the base of your tree, covering the soil about 1 inch (25 mm) thick. Put on gardening gloves or use a spade to spread the conditioner. This will need to be done from July to December. Seaweed emulsion or worm castings are good options and can be found at most local nurseries.  Use just enough conditioner to lightly cover the surface of the soil surrounding the tree. The original soil should still be visible through the conditioner. Water the tree after applying the conditioner. Dark spots indicate a fungal disease and needs to be addressed immediately. Prune away leaves, branches, and fruits where you can see dark brown or black spots.   Consider moving your tree if it keeps developing spots. The fungus can travel from one plant to another through water or rainfall, and relocating the plant may reduce its exposure to other plants with the fungus.   Burn the infected foliage rather than putting it into a compost bin. They will infect the rest of the compost. Mealybugs will eat your finger lime tree by drawing sap out of the trunk and branches. You can use natural pesticides or purchase a bottle from your local nursery.  When purchasing a chemical pesticide, try to find an eco-friendly one. The finger lime tree has delicate, thin branches and is easily killed by harsh chemicals.


Water thoroughly after planting and weekly thereafter. Place a trellis or stake between the rows. Apply a layer of mulch to the soil when the plants are established. Weed the area by hand. Water the peas more often when they start to flower.

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Right after planting, water the seeds well to help them settle into the soil. Because peas are prone to rot, don’t water them again for another 10 days, until they germinate. After 10 days, water the peas deeply once a week until they start to flower. Check the soil every couple of days to make sure it hasn’t dried out. When the soil starts to dry out, water immediately. Peas like to climb, and even with low-growing varieties, harvesting will be easier if the vines are supported on a trellis or stake structure. There are a few options you can choose, including placing stakes between the rows, building or buying a pre-made trellis and planting it between the rows, or even placing tomato cages between the rows. When the pea plants reach a height of 2 inches (5 cm), spread a layer of straw or chopped leaves over the soil. This will keep the soil moist and cool, and prevent weeds from growing in the garden bed. As the plants continue to grow, you can add more mulch if necessary. Any weeds that do happen to spring up in the area should be removed carefully by hand. Pea roots are fairly delicate, so you want to avoid digging in the garden bed. Instead, grasp the weeds by the base and pull them from the soil, roots and all, to eliminate competition. As soon as the peas start to blossom, keep a close eye on the soil and water daily if necessary. The peas will need more water at this stage to produce flowers and pods, especially if the weather is starting to get warmer.


Water weekly and let the top layer of soil dry between waterings. Use a diluted orchid fertilizer once a week. Maintain a humidity level of at least 50% for your orchid. Prune the orchid's blooms to promote regrowth.

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Dendrobium orchids can store water and are more tolerant of dry soil than overly wet soil. Water them every 1-2 weeks. Allow the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the soil to dry before re-watering.  Some species of dendrobium orchids have water-storing pseudobulbs, meaning they can go 2 weeks between waterings. It is preferable to water your orchid in the morning so that its leaves are dry before night. Purchase a balanced fertilizer designed specifically for orchids to feed your plant. Dilute it with water in a 4:1 ratio for regular fertilization. Apply the fertilizer once a week as directed. Alternatively, use the full-strength fertilizer once a month to feed your plant. Ideally, the dendrobium orchid should have a 50-70% humidity level around them. Increase humidity by running a humidifier near your plant. You can also place a shallow tray filled with water near your plant to help increase humidity in the immediate area. Do not place the plant in the tray of water, as the water may rot the roots of the orchid over time. After your orchid has finished blooming, use sharp scissors to cut off the flowering stem. Make the cut at a slight angle, just above the point it emerges from the rest of the plant. Doing this will allow for new growth to emerge during the next growing period. Not trimming your orchid after it blooms may prevent it from blooming again.


Water your bean plants if they appear wilted in the morning. Place mulch Tie your bean plants to a trellis or pole, if necessary. Take care not to disturb the roots when weeding around your beans. Use pesticides or natural methods to protect your beans from aphids.

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Black beans are hardy plants that don’t need a lot of water. Water your beans if the soil feels dry or nearly dry, or if you notice that your beans look wilted early in the morning. Take care not to over-water your beans. Black beans will start to rot at the roots if they sit in soggy soil too long. around the bases of your bean plants. Mulch can help keep weeds at bay, retain soil moisture, and keep the soil warm. Look for an organic mulching material, such as chopped straw or hay.  Mulch your beans about 2-3 weeks after planting, or once the plants have sprouted and grown a couple of leaves.  Leave 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) of mulch-free space around the stem of each plant. Having mulch up against the stems may cause the plants to rot. If your black beans are of a vining variety, they will need some type of support. Once your bean plants start to grow, put a pole or trellis next to each plant. You may need to gently tie the plant to the pole or trellis in order to train it to grow along the support. Each trellis or pole should be about 3 feet (.9 m) high. Black beans have shallow roots, so you will need to use caution when pulling up any weeds around your plants. Always pull up weeds by hand, and try to minimize weed growth as much as possible by mulching around your beans and weeding the plot before planting. Black beans are susceptible to aphids and other pests. Aphids are a particular concern, because they can infect your beans with the mosaic virus. Rinse off any pests with a garden hose on a sharp spray setting, or pick them off by hand. For a more long-term solution, you may wish to apply a pyrethrin or neem oil spray. If you’d rather not use chemical pesticides, try introducing some ladybugs to your garden. Ladybugs will eat aphids and other pest insects. You may be able to purchase ladybugs at your local garden center.


Water your broccoli plants regularly. Fertilize your plants about three weeks after planting. Avoid digging or turning the soil. Harvest your broccoli plants

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Allow your plants between one and one and a half inches of water per week. Broccoli likes moist soil.  You can use a rain gauge to see how much water the plants are getting naturally, and make up the difference with irrigation. Make sure not to get the budding broccoli crowns wet when watering. Doing so causes them to mold. In particularly hot or dry conditions, increase the amount of water you feed your plants. Use an organic, nitrogen-rich fertilizer when your broccoli plants begin to form new leaves. Fish emulsion works well for fertilizing broccoli plants. You can continue to fertilize the plants about once a week until they are ready for harvest. Broccoli plants have very shallow roots. If you disturb the soil you may accidentally break roots and damage your broccoli plants.  If weeds develop around the plants, suffocate them with mulch instead of plucking them from the ground to avoid disturbing the roots.  If you choose not to grow organically, you can also use a chemical pesticide to remove unwanted weeds from your garden without disturbing the broccoli roots. . You want to harvest your broccoli crowns when the buds are tightly closed and dark green. Avoid waiting until the buds begin to flower into light green or yellow flowers. Cut the crown where it meets the stem using garden shears.  See "Choosing a Variety" above for exact growing times for specific varieties. Avoid breaking the crown off. A clean cut will better encourage new growth. With a healthy cut, the broccoli plant should grow small shoots from the side of the stem. You can continue to harvest the small shoots, and the plant should produce more.


Water your fig tree when the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of soil is dry. Give your fig tree about 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water with each watering. Water your fig tree more if it's wilting or turning yellow.

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Fig tree roots grow close to the surface of the soil, so it's important that you water the soil around your fig tree whenever it looks dry. Check the soil at least once a week to see if your fig tree needs more water. Completely soak the soil around your fig tree. If you're not sure what 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water looks like, get a 1 gallon (3.8 L) bucket and fill it up with water. Then, pour the bucket of water over the soil around your fig tree. These are signs that your fig tree isn't getting enough water. If your fig tree exhibits these symptoms, increase the number of times you water it each week and see if that stops the wilting and discoloration.


Water your garden as needed. Weed your garden regularly. Mulch around your plants. Harvest your garden.

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Vegetables need about an inch of water per week to grow, and in especially dry, hot regions they may need twice that amount.  Test your soil daily to see if it requires watering by sticking your bare finger into the soil. If the top inch of the soil is dry, then you need to water your garden.  Hold off for a bit on using the hose if the forecast calls for rain. Mother nature might water your garden for you some days, but check your soil after it rains to make sure the rain has provided your plants with enough moisture. Remember that raised beds and containers drain faster than ground gardens, so you will probably need to water more frequently if you have planted a raised bed garden or container garden. Check your garden for weeds about every other day and pluck them out as soon as you notice them. Do not wait for them to mature. The sooner you pick out a weed, the better. If you wait too long to pull a weed, it may go to seed and spread more weeds throughout your garden. Whether you plant in a container, raised bed, or directly in the ground, mulching your plants will help keep them healthy and productive. Mulch around them as soon as they are big enough that you can spread mulch without covering them up. Pick veggies as they become ripe. Once vegetables begin to ripen, check your garden daily so that you don’t miss out on any of your harvest.  Some vegetables can be harvested when they are young, such as lettuce and squash. The plant will continue to produce more even after you pick them and many plants even produce more as a result of picking them.


Water your hostas frequently. Cut hostas back after the first frost. Compost the soil in the spring.  Divide your hostas Protect your Hostas from pests. Protect your hostas from disease.

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Hostas will wilt and turn brown if their soil gets too dry, so make sure to water them frequently to keep the soil moist. Water hostas under the foliage at their bases to prevent the leaves from getting burned by the sun.  Watering hostas in the morning will help keep them hydrated during hotter parts of the day during the summer. You can sprinkle mulch around the bases of the hostas to help keep the soil moist. Hostas don't stay green all winter, so after the first frost of fall, you'll probably want to cut them back - otherwise they'll look dried out and dead all winter long. Use pruning shears or a scissors to cut them back to a couple of inches. They'll come back out in the spring. You can also cut hostas flowers. Whether you cut your hostas when they're flowering or once the bloom has faded is up to you! At the beginning of the growing season, help bring the hostas back by adding compost to the soil. Add a layer of mulch to help retain moisture. Water the area thoroughly to help the new growth emerge. after 3 or 4 years. Hostas are quite durable, and it's easy to divide them to share with friends or plant in other areas of your garden. To divide a hosta, lift it out of the ground and separate a few stems and their roots from the main part of the plant. This is best done in early spring, when the leaves are still curled, but you can do it at any point during the summer if your plants are healthy. This will help maintain the overall quality of your Hostas and will make doubling your Hosta population easier. Hostas are favorites of deer, snails, and slugs. If these animals are common in the area you live, take precautions to protect against these species.  Keep deer away by building a fence around your yard, or luring them to the edges with other deer-friendly plants. Many gardeners find that setting out shallow bowls of beer around the hostas is an effective way to  get rid of slugs. Eliminate black vine weevil with an insecticide soap. Prevent nematodes by removing or drying overly wet foliate. If you see...


Water your jackfruit tree every day, but be careful not to over-water. Feed your young jackfruit fertilizer every six months. Protect the plant by removing weeds and using an organic pesticide. Prune the jackfruit tree regularly to keep it below 20 feet (6.1 m). Pick the jackfruit after 3 to 4 years.

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Young jackfruit trees need water every day so that their roots can establish. You can use a garden hose or a watering can to water the tree at its base. In order to avoid overwatering, make sure the soil is damp 1.5 inches (3.8cm) deep, but no more.  Jackfruit trees are sensitive to drought, so if your area is particularly dry, water your tree twice a day. Water your jackfruit even in winter. Jackfruit do not have a natural winter dormancy, so you need to keep the plant’s growing conditions warm, bright and humid. Young jackfruit trees need fertilizer to grow and thrive. Use 30 grams of a fertilizer with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and magnesium applied in a ratio of 8:4:2:1.  Every 6 months for the first 2 years, double the amount of fertilizer you use with the same mix.  Once your tree is 2 years old, growing jackfruit trees should receive 1 kilogram (2.2 lb) of a fertilizer with a 4:2:4:1 ratio. Weeds can absorb essential soil nutrients, so pull them out before they grow too numerous. Spray the tree with an organic pesticide to deter the any harmful bugs, such as the jackfruit borer.  If you can, pull weeds out by hand to avoid using chemicals that could damage your tree. You can purchase a natural pesticide from your local gardening store or make your own. To save your jackfruit from fruit flies and birds, cover the growing fruit with paper bags or netting. To prevent your jackfruit tree from growing so tall that it produces fruit out of reach, use a pair of hand shears to trim the tree back to a controllable size.  When the tree grows above 12 feet (3.7 m), reduce the height by 4 feet to encourage outward growth. Remove any dead wood to keep the tree in good health. While the tree is still growing, pinch off any flowers that the plant produces to help promote growth. All going well, after the third or fourth year your tree will begin developing edible fruit. It will take another 4 to 5 months (potentially up to 8 months) for the young fruit to ripen. Pick the fruit once they have a yellow tinge and...


Water your lemon tree weekly. Keep the air around your plant circulated. Fertilize Perform only mild pruning on your tree. Set up a humidifier near your lemon plant. Manage the temperature of your room to ensure a healthy harvest.

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If your lemon tree doesn't get enough water, the natural salts that it produces may accumulate in the soil. Keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged to prevent root rot.  If using hard tap water, you may need to drop the water's pH before giving it to your tree. Adding 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) white vinegar to 1 gallon (4 liters) of water will usually do the trick. If your tree’s leaves are curling, your tree needs more water. To imitate outdoor conditions, open a door or window near your plant in warm weather. If the air is too cold, set up a rotating fan near the lemon tree to help the air stay well-ventilated. your plant once every few months. Lemon trees grow well if they get plenty of nitrogen—you can find nitrogen-rich fertilizers at most plant stores. Feed your plant once every 3 weeks in spring or summer and once every 6 weeks in fall and winter.  An NPK fertilizer of 2-1-1 works well for citrus trees. Do not use fertilizers containing alfalfa meal or cottonseed meal. Fertilizers containing these meals can cause fungal diseases. Pruning too many leaves will reduce your yield, but occasional pruning can be helpful. Remove dead, broken, and diseased branches, and thin to control the height and spread of your tree as space allows. Lemon trees can be pruned year-round when grown indoors. Lemon trees naturally grow in humid climates. Placing a humidifier near the tree can keep the air from getting stale. Set the humidifier to at least 50% to give your plant enough moisture in the air.  Misting your lemon tree with water several times a week or when it rains can also restore the plant's humidity levels.  If you live in a humid location, you may be able to get enough humidity from opening a door or window. These trees do best in rooms with an average temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21.1 degrees Celsius) by day and 55 degrees Fahrenheit (12.8 degrees Celsius) at night. While temperatures that dip below 55 degrees Fahrenheit (12.8 degrees Celsius) will not kill your tree, they will cause your tree...


Water your marigolds at the bottom, not from the top. Deadhead your marigolds. Use insecticidal soap to prevent infestation. Stake your flowers, if necessary.

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Pouring water over the marigold blossoms and leaves may damage or even rot them. Instead, use a watering can to water your flowers at the base of the plants. Try to avoid using a garden hose to water your plants. The force of the water may wash away the top layer of soil. “Deadheading” is a cultivating process in which you snip off dead blossoms from flowering plants. While not strictly necessary, deadheading your marigolds will help prompt the plant to produce new flowers. To keep marigolds compact, pinch off new, unwanted growth. Although marigolds are very hardy, they may sometimes have pest problems. A mild solution of insecticidal soap, which is sold at most gardening supply stores and even supermarkets, will help keep pests at bay without presenting a toxic hazard. Some marigold species are edible. If you use marigolds in any edible preparation, wash them thoroughly first to remove any insecticidal soap residue. Do not eat marigolds that have had chemical pesticides sprayed on them. Most marigold species grow quite close to the ground, but if you’ve chosen a taller variety such as the African marigold, you may need to provide a stake to support the stalk. Use stakes about 2’ high and tie the plant to the stake with a soft, stretchy fabric. (Old nylon stockings work very well for this!)


Water your morning glory sparingly. Provide your morning glory vine with climbing materials. Resist using too much fertilizer. Check for pests occasionally. Watch the blooming cycle. Clear away dead vines in winter.

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Adult plants are very tolerant of dry soil, and may not even require watering at all in wet or cool climates. During hot weather, water once or twice a week. Over-watering can lead to excessive vine growth with few flowers. Give them access to a trellis or arbor for shade, or let them grow on a dead tree or post. They cannot climb flat surfaces, so hang plastic netting in front of a wall or solid fence if you'd like the vines to grow there. Give the vines plenty of space; some varieties can grow 15 feet (4.6m) in a single season. Since most morning glory vines die every year, allowing your morning glory to climb living trees is acceptable as the vines will not harm the tree. (Don't try this in areas with mild winters, which morning glories can survive.) Fertilize when your morning glory is first planted, then no more than once a month during the growing season. If you fertilize too often, you will encourage foliage instead of blooms. Since morning glories have few problems with disease, you should find it easy to keep your morning glory plant healthy. Insect problems are also rare, but it's worth the occasional check for aphids and other insects. Your local nursery can help you address the problem if it occurs, usually with an organic pesticide. Morning glories are prolific and long-lasting bloomers, although they sometimes take a month or two to get started. Each individual flower opens in the morning and dies off before the end of the day. This makes morning glories one of the most interesting and beautiful flowers to decorate your garden. Air temperature will alter the color of the bloom and the length of time it stays open. Morning glories can survive a mild frost, but in most climates they will die in early winter. Morning glories are aggressive re-seeders, which is good and bad news from the gardener. You won't need to buy any more seeds for next season, but you might discover that your whole garden starts growing vines. Clear away the dead vines promptly to prevent this. New seeds will usually grow...


Water your orchid's roots in the morning every few days. Spray orchids with homemade pesticide every 3 weeks. Remove weeds as soon as you notice them sprouting. Treat black rot or brown spot by cutting off the infected area.

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Water the orchid at the root early in the day, avoiding the leaves. Place it under a kitchen sink and run the tap for 15 seconds, then place it somewhere it can drain and dry. Watering in the morning will ensure that your orchid will have more sunlight to help it grow. If you wait until night to water it, it will be moist all night, which can lead to mildewing. Avoid over-watering by checking the soil's moisture with your finger. If the soil feels wet, wait 1 more day to water the orchid. Spray your orchid's leaves with a mixture of 1  qt (950 ml) water, 2-3 drops of neem oil, and a drop of liquid dish detergent every 3 weeks to keep insects away.  Apply only enough of the mixture to cover the plant; the rest can be used on other garden plants if you'd like. Remake this mixture every time you spray for bugs, as opposed to keeping it; the ingredients will break down soon after mixing with water. Keep your potted orchids off the ground, so pests can't easily crawl into them. Keep some large tweezers near your orchids so you can pull weeds out as soon as you see them. Weeds are any small plant, usually green, growing unwanted in the same area as your orchid. Removing the bulb or root below the weed will give you the best chance at permanently wiping out the weed. Dig under where you found the green growth until the entire root or bulb comes out. If your orchid develops brown, black, or translucent patches upon its skin, sterilize a pair of scissors or a knife by soaking them in rubbing alcohol for 15 minutes, then cutting off the infected area. Spray a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water on the cut area and throw the infected cutting away.  Cut the infected area away until there is only health tissue on the plant. Diseases can easily spread if they're left on the orchid. These diseases are spread by water. Prevent them by making sure your orchid is draining properly in loose soil, and consider moving the orchid to an area with more air circulation. Make sure that you sanitize your cutting tools after...


Water your plant every day for the first year. Mulch your rhododendron Fertilize your rhododendron Wrap your rhododendron in burlap to protect them from harsh weather. Prune

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New rhododendrons need daily watering to stay healthy. After the first year, the plant should be able to get moisture on its own unless the rainfall is less than 1 inch (2.5 cm) a week. The soil surrounding your rhododendron should be moist, but not damp or watery. Overwatering your plant can cause root rot and other diseases. once a year. Mulching your plants protects its root system and keeps the soil moist. Apply 2–5 inches (5.1–12.7 cm) of  an acidic mulch or compost to the soil surrounding your plant, preferably made with pine wood chips or needles.  Keep the mulch 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) away from the rhododendron's trunk. You can purchase acidic mulches at most plant nurseries or garden centers. every spring. Whether your rhododendron is a spring or fall bloomer, fertilize your rhododendron annually in springtime. Spray or apply a light coating of fertilizer to the rhododendron, as a heavy application can burn it. Rhododendrons thrive best if you use fertilizers with high nitrogen, phosphorus, magnesium, iron, and calcium. Look for fertilizers that are specifically labeled for rhododendrons and azaleas for the best results. Rhododendron shrubs need protection from snowfall and cold weather. Wrap your rhododendron branches lightly in burlap and secure it with twine. Plan on wrapping your rhododendron in late autumn before the first frost. young rhododendrons in springtime. Prune your rhododendron in early spring for the first 1-2 years after planting it. Pruning established plants can prevent them from blooming for several years, so let older rhododendrons grow naturally beyond cutting back 1 or 2 branches a year.


Water your plant often enough to keep the soil moist. Fertilize your plant once a week in the growing season. Repot the goldfish plant every 2-3 years. Keep the stems trimmed to 12–18 inches (30–46 cm) in length. Fight off pests with an insecticidal soap spray.

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To keep your goldfish plant well-watered but not soggy, water it any time you notice the soil becoming dry. The soil should feel moist, but not waterlogged. You will not need to water your goldfish plant as often during the winter as during the summer. However, water it often enough that the soil never completely dries out. During the spring through early fall, give your goldfish plant a phosphorous-rich fertilizer once a week to encourage blooming. Don’t fertilize the plant during the winter. Choose a water-soluble fertilizer and follow the instructions on the package. Goldfish plants thrive and produce better blooms if you repot them every few years. Remove your plant from its pot and replant it in a clean, slightly larger pot with fresh potting soil. When you repot the plant, trim the ends of the roots slightly to encourage new root growth. Regular pruning will encourage healthy branching and keep your plant looking its best. Pinch off the tips of the stems regularly and trim back any branches that are starting to look too long or “leggy.” In addition to trimming the branches, regularly deadheading wilted blossoms can encourage the plant to produce more blooms. Goldfish plants are susceptible to a variety of pests, such as aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies. If you notice that pests are attacking your plant, spray it down with a gentle insecticide soap. You can purchase insecticidal soap sprays at most gardening centers or home supply stores.


Water your plants 1-3 times a week to keep the soil damp. Mist your plants with a spray bottle if it is very hot or dry outside. Avoid overwatering your plants so they do not get mildew or root rot. Treat your plants with a natural pesticide if aphids appear.

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Using your hose or a watering can, give your plants water regularly. Water the plants for about 30-60 seconds. Be careful not to overwater your cumin plants. Cumin plants do not like long periods of dry heat, so it is important to keep them hydrated. In the summer months, it can get very dry and arid, so fill up a spray bottle with water and saturate your cumin plants. Do this as needed or about 1 time a week. You can spray the tips, stalks, and roots. Before you water your plants again, wait until the soil is almost dry before you water it. Then, soak the soil thoroughly. If you continue to water wet soil, your plants can grow mildew or start to rot. Aphids are a common threat to cumin plants. Fortunately, there are many natural remedies to get rid of them. You can try spraying them with a garden hose, or place onions or garlic around your plants as a natural deterrent. In addition, you can mix 4-5 drops of thyme, peppermint, clove, and rosemary essential oils into a spray bottle filled with water. Then, spray the infested plants thoroughly. Search online for additional natural pesticides if you need more options.


Water your roses every 1-2 days. Mist your flowers with water once every 2-4 days to keep them hydrated. Feed your plants rose fertilizer every 2-3 weeks. Cut flowers with pruning shears when they start to fade. Prune Cover your roses with mulch in the winter if growing them outdoors.

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To check your soil’s moisture level, simply stick your finger all the way into the soil. If it is dry, you should water your roses. Roses tend to absorb water quickly, and they require ample water to grow beautiful flowers. Place your hose at the base of your roses and leave it there for about a minute to thoroughly saturate your roses.  Your roses may need to be watered every day for the first 3 weeks or so (if you are in the Northern Hemisphere). Water with 3 inches (7.6 cm) of water spread out through the week. In addition to watering your flowers, spray a light, even layer of water onto the flowers. This helps keep the flowers clean and moisturizes the petals. To feed your plants, simply sprinkle a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) layer of fertilizer over the topsoil every few weeks. This replenishes vital nutrients, like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.   Purchase fertilizer at garden centers and home supply stores. Alternatively, use compost to feed your roses. As soon as you see any flowers begin to fade, cut the stem directly below the flower at a 45-degree angle to encourage new growth. The flowers are ready to be cut when they lose their color or start to wilt. This is also known as “deadheading” the bush.  Never pull off your flowers with your fingers. This damages the plant and encourages diseases. Cut off dead leaves or stems as well. Make sure your pruning shears are sharp! Sterilize your cutting tools before and after you prune. miniature roses in the fall once they have matured. Once your rose bush has grown to full size, begin pruning it in the fall. Cut the branches at a 45-degree angle about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) above outward-facing bud eyes. The amount you trim will depend on the number of bud eyes on your plant, but you should trim about 1/2 to 2/3 of the plant. This helps conserve nutrients as the temperatures start to get cold. The bud eyes are the knobs on the stem that produce flowers. To put your roses into dormancy over the winter, cover them in a layer of mulch about 2 in (5.1 cm) thick. Cover the...


Water your soil in the morning. Water your soil manually 2-3 times a week. Use sprinklers instead of watering by hand. Use a drip irrigation system for more consistent moisture.

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Watering your soil when the sun is out will cause it to evaporate quicker, which is why watering it in the morning is better. If you are trying to boost water retention, water it first thing in the morning. Watering your soil in the morning also prevents plants from catching diseases. On average, your soil should get 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) of water each week. If your soil is drying out, water it with a garden hose or watering can. Press your finger 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) into the surface of the soil. If it feels dry under the surface, you know you need to water it more.  Your soil should feel moist by the touch but shouldn’t be overly saturated. If your soil is muddy, you know you’re overwatering it. Use a gardening hose on larger lawns. Keep in mind that certain plants will need more or less watering. Research the water needs of the plants you have to make sure you're not giving them too much or too little water. A programmed sprinkler system will enable you to water your soil on a regular schedule. This is especially useful if you aren’t around to water the soil yourself. Program your sprinkler system to provide the appropriate amount of water to your soil.  If you notice the sprinklers are oversaturating the soil, reduce how long they stay on or install a water sensor that will automatically turn them off once your soil reaches a certain saturation level. Sprinklers are inefficient when it's over 90 °F (32 °C) out because the water often evaporates before it is absorbed into the soil. A drip irrigation system is made up of a system of tubes connected to a water source. This method is typically more effective than using a sprinkler system because the water is delivered directly to the soil. Hire a professional to install the system or purchase a drip irrigation kit and put it together yourself.