Master something. Push yourself past your comfort zone. Set yourself some “easy” goals. Embrace the possibility of mistakes.

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Another way to build your confidence and to get more pumped to talk to other people is to learn something new. This can be anything from figure skating to creative writing to Italian cooking. You don't have to be the best in the world at it; what’s important is that you work at it and acknowledge your successes. Mastering things will not only boost your confidence, it will also give you more to talk about with others and may help you make some friends along the way, too.  If you're already good at something, awesome. Add it to your list of things that make you unique. And don't be afraid to try something else anyway. Learning new skills also helps keep your brain sharp. When your brain is constantly challenged with new information and tasks, it has to become more flexible and adaptable -- and that’s excellent for helping you break out of your shell.  Try a class! Whether it’s yoga for beginners or Italian Cooking 101, classes can be a great way to connect with others who are also learning something new to them. You’ll be able to see that everyone makes mistakes along the way to mastery, and you may even bond with people over your newfound passion. Staying in your shell can be comfortable. You know what you’re good at, and you never have to do anything that frightens you or makes you uncomfortable. The thing is, staying in your comfort zone kills creativity and exploration. Doing things you’ve never done before will help you come out of your shell.  Pushing yourself past your comfort zone means acknowledging that fear and uncertainty exist, and that it’s okay to feel those things. You just can’t let those feelings keep you from exploring the world. If you practice taking risks even when you’re a little afraid, you’ll find it’s a lot easier to continue taking them.  Psychologists have discovered that you actually need a little anxiety to make you more creative. People work harder when they feel slightly unsure of the situation, which leads to better performance, too.  On the other hand, you don’t want to try...


Master the art of the selfie. Choose a cool cover photo. Update your info. Strategize what your “likes” and interests. Post interesting. Play around with security settings.

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If you’re going to try to get a girl to like you on Facebook, you first have to have a great profile pic — it’s going to be the first visual impression she gets of you.  Have a profile picture with your face. If the girl doesn’t know you well, she’ll want to be able to see your face and get a vibe from you.  Rather than going for something abstract, make your profile default picture a clear headshot, preferably with you smiling, dressed well, and looking good. Don’t go for any overly posed mirror selfies; you don’t want to look like a narcissist. Make sure your images is a high resolution shot that’s nicely cropped. Pixelated photos with half of your face cut off will not look good. Save your other photos — pictures that are more than one year old, baby pictures, and pictures with other people — for your other albums. Your page’s cover photo can be an important addition to your profile pic and is a great space for you to show some of your personality.  Consider, for example, color coordinating your cover photo to match or compliment your profile picture. Or, use this space to display a photo of an art piece you especially admire. While your profile pic should only be a photo of you, you can use a group shot as the cover photo. If you have friends in common with the girl you're after, take a photo of you with these mutual friends and post it. This way she can see you hanging with the same people she likes to hang with. Take some time to make sure your information in the “about” section of your page is up-to-date.  Be thorough and fill out most of the sections, including your birthday, school, job, etc. Be especially sure to fill out the "interested in" and "relationship status" sections. Make yourself visible to the girl your interested in as also interested in girls and single. If you can see what the girl is into, mirror a couple of her likes and interests by liking them too.  It’ll help break the ice between you too if you have some interests in common, so doing some research into what she’s into before you...


Master the basics of pruning. Figure out what kind of holly shrub you have. Look at the natural shape of your holly. Get the right shears and gloves. Wait for the right season.

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It's not rocket science, but pruning is a bit more complicated than it looks. There are different techniques of shaping and specific places on the shrub where you should make the cuts, so don't just start chopping. Before you get started, take a minute to review the fundamental terms and concepts pertaining to pruning.  Shearing is the act of maintenance where you simply trim the outermost twigs to control length. Thinning is where you cut and remove branches throughout the shrub. Thinning is generally preferred over shearing, as exclusively shearing will encourage dense growth on the outer edges of the plant and keep sunlight from getting to inner branches. This can create a transparent or hollow look which is considered less desirable than a full, even growth.  A terminal bud grows at the tip of a branch, and it sends hormones back down the rest of the shoot which inhibit the growth of other buds. This is why you want to prune: you want to clip off terminal buds in order to stem the flow of growth-inhibiting hormones and encourage growth of other, non-terminal buds.  A lateral bud sprout along the side of the shoot. When cutting, you want to cut back to a lateral bud node, which is the place on the stem where the lateral bud attaches to the shoot. There are many different kinds of holly, such as American, Chinese, Japanese, Inkberry, Yaupon, and Winterberry, and these different types all have different needs. You'll need to identify what kind of plant you have before you pick up the shears.  If your holly plant loses its foliage every winter, it's a deciduous holly. These holly plants require radical pruning every year. If your holly plant never loses its foliage, it's an evergreen. These types of holly require more attention in the first few years of life but not as much thinning or shaping as time goes on. There are different kinds of evergreen hollies, and you should look at their natural shape in order to determine specifically how to prune them. There are pyramidal, rounded, and indeterminate holly...


Master the candlestick. Run through your approach and punch. Execute a forward roll.

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The “candlestick” position in gymnastics involves lying flat on your back, then raising your legs and torso into the air perpendicular to the floor so you resemble a candle stick.  Stretch your arms out at a forty-five degree angle from each side of your body to support your core and legs as you raise them up at straight as you can.  Practice rolling up and into then back from the “candlestick” position. The way you make your approach and execute the punch (your departure from the floor) will determine the height and distance of your jump.  Practice your approach by taking a five rapid steps toward your jump.  Put your feet together and launch yourself as high into the air as you can with your feet together and toes pointed. Keep your arms up with your elbows straight through your practice jumps. The forward roll makes up the second half of the dive roll, after the approach and punch.  Start by squatting down on the balls of your feet.  Place your hands flat on the floor, then tuck your head and lean forward the back of your head is aligned with your hands. Push forward with your legs until you begin to roll, then tuck your body and keep your back rounded. Complete the technique on your rear end or roll up onto your feet.


Master the square stance. Keep a low center of gravity. Learn to sprawl to move your legs out of an opponent’s range.

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This stance is the neutral position from which you’ll start nearly all of your offensive and defensive moves. Start from a standing position. Separate your feet by about 2 feet (0.61 m). Then, bend your knees and slightly arch your back so you’re ready to spring in any direction. Lastly, bend your elbows at about 90° and put your hands in front of you.  A common alternative to this is the staggered stance. In a staggered stance, one foot is about 8 inches (20 cm) in front of the other and carries the majority of your weight. When in either stance, your elbows should be between your thighs. If your elbows stray outside of the them, your opponent may under hook your elbows. Keeping your legs wide and your torso low to the ground will help with this. So, keep your weight spread between both of your feet and always stay balanced on the balls of your feet. Get used to moving around in this crouched position, while maintaining the standard wrestling stance. Maintaining a low center of gravity will make it difficult for an opponent to topple you over. Sprawling is simply falling to your hip from your stance in order to prevent your opponent from performing a takedown move. When your opponent takes their shot at your leg(s), lower your hips, then drop to one knee and drop your hip on top of your opponent’s upper back. Push your opponent’s head down to the mat with one hand. This will prevent them from performing a takedown. The sprawl moves your legs out of range from someone shooting on you. This is a great way to defend against an opponent, and opens the best options to counter-attack.


Master the technique in order to punch harder. Learn some fighting techniques from other disciplines.

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Do you see golfers hitting insane tee shots with bad technique? Do you see Major Leaguers hitting towering home runs with bad technique? Do you see swimmers carving through water at breakneck speeds with bad technique? We didn't think so either. The right punching technique will not only make your punches harder; it will make them more efficient, meaning less energy gets packed into a bigger punch you will have to practice. Boxing and martial arts are good to help make yourself move faster and be more flexible and stronger.


Master your knowledge of the Marksman Rifles. Use Marksman Rifles effectively.

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Marksman rifles are popular because their range is at the middle of an assault and sniper rifles’ range. They deal a great deal of damage while you shoot from a safe distance, and with high accuracy, too.  As per the in-game descriptions, the marksman rifles are:  IA-2: Semi-automatic. Strong and versatile overall. MK14 EBR. Semi-automatic. Moderate recoil, highest damage per round in class. MR-28. Semi-automatic. A built-in Foregrip lowers recoil. Shorter range with highest rate of fire in its class. SVU. Semi-automatic. Effective at long range with moderate recoil. Since marksman rifles cater to short and long range shooting, it is important to know how you can use these weapons to their full potential.  When using marksman rifles, it is best to use the Stalker perk. It drastically makes your movement faster while aiming. As for attachments, equip your weapon with a Force Grip for firing stability, just like the assault rifle. Depending on your play style, you can also attach a Burst Fire on your weapon to shoot bullets faster in just a single burst. With Force Grip attached, you don’t need to worry about as much recoil. Most veteran players do quick-scoping, mainly because it’s a fast and effective way of killing an enemy even before it gets the chance to do anything. The IA-2 pulls off this move efficiently. Try mixing the run-and-gun and sniper play-style when using a marksman rifle. This will confuse your enemies trying to figure out your pattern of play. Your weapon can be fatal regardless of your distance so you have the benefit of changing your pace. When reaching a high-tier Kill Streak reward, it is advisable for you to play it safe first and wait for your final prey. Avoid roaming around to lessen the chances of you getting killed and cutting-off your Kill Streak. Of all the marksman rifles on the list, the MK14 EBR boasts the most overall favorable stats. It may not provide the best mobility, but it sure deals the greatest damage. It could kill an enemy with one bullet to the head in a long distance shot.


Master your pronunciation of common words and phrases. Make your own unique contributions to the language. Use non-verbal cues to make yourself more expressive. Record yourself speaking Simlish to see whether you sound authentic. Have conversations with your friends in Simlish.

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Practice repeating key bits of the language that you hear again and again until you sound just like your Sims. Dialing in your delivery may require you to mimic things like how fast or slow the word is typically said, or the inflection or tone of voice used to say it.  The word "boobasnot," for instance, is often spoken with a quick, angry emphasis to express a disliking for something or someone. Once you get the hang of pronouncing single words, start stringing several words together to form simple sentences, as in "boobasnot woofums" ("I don't like dogs"). Come up with words and phrases from random sounds. Simlish started as an improvised language made up on the spot during the production of the Sims games, which means there are no rules about how it has to sound. If the original voice actors could do it, so can you.  Try to vary your use of different consonant and vowel sounds so it doesn’t seem like you’re saying the same things over and over again. If you like, you can even invent meanings for some of your best-sounding words and work them into conversation every now and then. Exaggerated facial expressions, hand gestures, and other quirks of body language will let your listener know how you’re feeling and ensure that you get your point across. You might jump up and down to indicate excitement, or sigh and roll your eyes to show that you’re frustrated. Remember, Simlish is not so much about what you say as how you say it. Think of Simlish as a language of emotion. Without any hints as to your emotional state, it’s just a bunch of noises. Create a few soundbites using the audio recorder or voice memo app on your device, then play them back and listen to how close you are to matching the voices in the game. Make your character perform the same action repeatedly or queue up a clip of a specific interaction to keep a handy reference on standby. Learning to speak Simlish is like learning anything else—the more you do it, the better you’ll get at imitating the language’s distinctive sounds and inflections....


Master your script. Practice in front of others. Get to know your product. Read up on your audience. Be ready for negative responses. Practice last names.

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Your supervisor should give you a script to follow for your initial sales pitch. Or you may be asked to create your own script based on some guidelines. You’ll want to avoid reading the script word-for-word, since this an easy way to lose a potential customer’s interest. Memorize it by reading it several times, then trying to cite it from memory one line at a time. In the telemarketing industry, the product offer is known as an “Elevator pitch” because of how it summarizes the product or service in a few sentences, which should be recited during the time it takes to ride in an elevator. If you're just starting out in telemarketing, you might have problems with shyness. To reduce any reluctance you may have to make calls because of shyness, ask your supervisor if you could practice your sales pitch in front of a group of fellow employees. Ask them to give you feedback on how clearly you’re speaking, the appropriateness of your tone of voice, and how convincing your delivery is.  Ask one person in the group to act as the potential customer, and carry out a mock sales conversation with them. Another good way to build confidence is to shadow a fellow employee. Ask your supervisor about spending time watching, listening to, and taking notes on a top employee while they make calls. Asking your boss for extra help will show them that you’re a dedicated employee and interested in doing all you can to help the company. In order to be able to speak convincingly about the product or service you’re pitching to the potential customer, it’s important that you understand it well. Ask your supervisor for a written summary of the product or service that you can study. If you’re selling a physical item, ask to see the product so you can study its characteristics and afterwards describe it better to the customer. Most telemarketing firms limit their calling lists to potential customers who are most likely to buy their products or services. Ask your supervisor for a summary of the backgrounds of potential customers you’ll be...


Master your symptoms. Earn access to a school thermometer. Find a heat source or raise your body temperature. Repeat your symptom and feeling. Stay calm in the final stretch.

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A convincing sign that you are ill will put you in arm's distance of a thermometer, which is key to faking a fever. If you claim too many symptoms, like a headache, dizziness, and nausea, that is usually a dead giveaway you are faking. It's better to pick a single symptom, like a headache, and one feeling associated with that symptom. For example, you might say:  "I have a headache and every time I stand up I feel a little dizzy. This has never happened to me before. Is this normal? I don't feel good." "My stomach's upset. I don't know why, it just started hurting last night and this morning I had to go to the bathroom real bad. Can I go lay down for a while?" Once you have gained access to the nurse's office of the waiting area of your school's office, you are in reaching distance of the school thermometer. The thermometer will be your key to getting sent home. Stick to your symptoms. Now that you're out of class, you should tell the adult watching you that you feel warm and ask for a thermometer. This will require some stealth or planning. You must be careful the adult in charge of taking your temperature doesn't even suspect that you are artificially raising your temperature. If he does, you're chances are getting sent home are next to nil. When faking out the thermometer, you'll have to be careful not to raise the temperature too high. The ideal fake-sick temperature is between 99.5°F (37.5°C) and 100°F (37.78°C). To fake out the thermometer, you might:  Do some light exercise on your way to the office/nurse's room. This can artificially raise your body temperature. Drink hot water before going to the office or the nurse's room. Hold the thermometer close to a heat source, like a desk lamp. Consistency is key; repeating a thing makes it more believable. By telling the nurse or a school office worker that the same thing, over and over again might get you sent home, even if your temperature is normal. When you hear those sweet words, "We're calling your parents," it's easy to lose perspective. If you tip...


Match a hairstyle to the shape of your face. Consider a layered cut. Consider going super-short. Look at hair inspirations. Consider going to a hairdresser.

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Are you going for an ultra-short punk rock look, or just taking a few inches off to give yourself a nice summer style? Whatever kind of new look you're going for, it's very important to match your style to the shape of your face.  If you have a very round face, you could try a bob or a layered cut that frames your face better. If you have a narrower face or more highly defined structure, a pixie style may look better with your features. If your face is oval shaped, then you will look good in just about any haircut. If you want a dynamic and layered cut, that will involve sectioning off your hair and cutting it at slightly different lengths to get the hair to fall gently and evenly with the back of your head. This will take a little more work to pull off, and might require some help and mirrors. To cut your hair in layers, decide where you want the shortest layer to fall and then cut the top layer of hair to that length. Then, use the layer as a guide to cut the rest of your hair longer going towards your shoulders. Hold your hair out at an angle to create a smooth transition from 1 layer to the next. Then work back over the layers to make sure they'll be uniform. Maybe one of the easiest ways to cut long hair short is to use hair clippers and start buzzing. If you're tired of long hair and want to go ultra-short, you don't need to give it much time or thought with a good pair of clippers. Another way to go the quick and dirty route is to put your hair back into a ponytail and just cut it off. Using a mirror, go back over the ends and clean them up, snipping the ends at angles so it'll look more layered. As with any haircut, it can help to find some pictures of hairstyles that you really admire to help you get geared up for the cut. If you think you might like having short hair, it'll definitely help assuage any fears you have if you pick out some flattering short styles to emulate with your own. Try to find someone with a similarly featured face. If you've got a rounder face, it probably wouldn't make any...


Match needle with thread.

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Compare the eye (the hole at the top) of the needle with the thickness of the thread. The thread should be able to easily fit through the eye. If the thread is too thick, try to find a thinner thread or a needle with a wider eye. If you're new to sewing, and the work isn't terribly intricate, try using a needle with a large eye for easier threading.


Match the coat to your pants. Wear the sport coat with a shirt and tie. Rock it with a t-shirt or a polo. Pick the right shoes. Build in complementary styles.

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While not all people like to pair a sport coat with jeans, it is perfectly permissible to do so. The trick is to wear jeans that are in excellent condition and wear a neat belt too. Also, ensure that the coat and jeans fit well.  Alternatively, wear trousers. Most casual and smart casual trousers will match well with a sport coat. If the coat is patterned, choose neutrally colored pants in beige, grey, fawn, cream, etc. The pants should not compete with the coat. For a light-colored sport coat, match with dark-colored pants. For a dark-colored sport coat, match with light-colored pants. Classic is always in style. Match patterned sport coats with solid-colored shirts for a casual but stylish look. If you want to be sophisticated and put-together, putting on a patterned sport coat with a solid shirt and a neat tie will have people turning heads. Match busy jackets with solid shirts and ties and vice versa. It'd be hard to get away with three patterns.  In cold weather, try out a sport coat over a sweater and collared shirt combination. This can be an excellent way of staying warm without the need for an overcoat. It looks stylishly bookish like you're a grad student at Oxford studying avant-garde poetry.  Get creative with your tie choices. Patterns are probably out, but think about wool ties, string ties, and other types of ties that will complement your jacket pattern nicely. Alternatively, unbutton a few top buttons and wear just the shirt and coat together. This can be a great powerful look. Your collared shirt should always be tucked in, and the collar should be inside the jacket if you're going to wear it with a sport coat. It’s not 1974! Don't let the collar hang outside. If you want to look like you're hosting the MTV Movie Awards, or you're heading to work at your tech start-up, this is a great look, less formal but still fantastic. Just make sure that either shirt is of very good quality and in excellent condition. It should not be see-through or wrinkled. Wearing a printed t-shirt with a sport coat...


Match the color of your clothes. Buy clothes that fit your body type. Match the quality of your clothes. Accessorize appropriately. Keep your outfit simple. If you're a girl, wear jeans or leggings with a casual blouse or nice t-shirt. If you're a boy, wear collared shirts like polo and button-downs. Mix it up.

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Pay close attention to your outfit's color scheme. Neutral colors like black, white, tan, and grey go with anything. Neutral colored clothes should be your bread and butter. Also, as a rule of thumb, primary colors (red, blue, and yellow) and complementary colors (orange and blue, green and red etc...) always go well together. Nearby colors like indigo and purple harmonize nicely too. Mix and match colors until you find an outfit that pleases the eye.  Remember to match the color of your shoes to the color of your outfit. Blue jeans match everything. If you're feeling daring, try an eye-catching monochrome look like an all red outfit. The easiest way to look good is to wear well-fitted clothes. Your clothes shouldn't be baggy or skin-tight. They should flatter your body type.  There's no need to guess. Measure your pant size and remember it. Try on clothes before you buy them. A medium in one brand may be a large in another. If you can, avoid ordering online so you're certain of the fit. If you're wearing a fancy button-down shirt, try to match it with nice khakis. Avoid sneakers with a classy outfit and go for something more like black, leather loafers. Similarly, if you want to go with something more casual, make sure you whole outfit is casual. All your clothes should work together. Or in other words, nothing should stand out. Depending on your school's dress code, add necklaces, bracelets, belts, sunglasses etc... into the mix. This adds depth to your look. If you're wearing neutral colors, use your accessory as an accent. A bright blue necklace or red shoelaces can bring otherwise drab clothing to life.  Don't overdo it. Too many accessories can make it look like you're trying too hard. Aim for one or two matching accessories per outfit. Don't over match your accessories. If you're wearing a mainly blue outfit, avoid blue accessories. You can match the color of your accessory to one of the understated colors of your outfit. A hint of red on your shirt and red earrings go very well together. Accessories...


Match up the squares. Knot the yarn onto your crochet hook. Chain stitch three times in the corner of the top square. Double crochet three times in the corner of the bottom square. Double crochet in the next space of the top square, followed by the next space of the bottom. Make one double crochet in the corner of the back square. Repeat with any remaining squares for the row. Lay rows next to each other. Double crochet rows together. Make one granny row around the finished piece.

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The first square in your row should be placed on the left and the second square should be placed to its right. The second square should be on top, and the back sides of both squares should be facing each other.  Note that if you have a layout or pattern in mind, you should arrange it before you crochet your rows together. Stack the first row together. The last square in that row should go on the bottom and the first should go on top. Smaller stacks are easier to work with. This method will create a flexible, decorative seam between the squares. Make a slipknot on one end of the yarn and squeeze your crochet hook into the loop created by the knot.  Make a slip knot by creating two loops side by side. Push one loop through the other and gently pull them in opposite directions, forming a single loop with an easy-to-adjust knot. Make a slipknot over the open corner of your top granny square. Chain stitch three times off this corner. Connect the bottom square to the top square by making three double stitches (double crochets) in the open corner of the bottom square. You might need to change the way you hold the two squares together as you stitch them together. If you have trouble stitching them together with one on top of the other, turn the two squares on the side so that the shared edges are facing up toward you. The "top" square will now be on your right and the "bottom" will be on the left. Make three double crochet stitches in the next open space of the top/right square. After those are complete, make another three double crochet stitches in the next open space of the bottom/left square. Continue across the shared sides of the two squares using this technique. Alternate back and forth, making sets of three double-stitches in each open space along the edges of both squares. When you reach the end of the joined row, make one double stitch crochet in the final open corner. Bind or knot it off to finish the joint. Follow the same same procedure to stitch together all the squares in each row. Also repeat the...


Match your boot to the occasion. Flatter your figure. Consider comfort and quality. Wear boots for the weather. Use a bold boot as a statement piece. Follow fashion trends.

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Pick out your boots according to the setting and activity you will be doing.  Choose ankle, knee-high, or over-the-knee boots with a low heel or no heel for walking around town, attending a sports game, or other casual occasions. Choose heeled boots for a party or nighttime outing that is a little dressier. Get a quality hiking boot for hiking or work boot for outdoor work that will support your ankles and feet against rough terrain and labor. Find a boot that will work with the proportions of your body.  If you have wide calves, look for boots with elastic panels, slightly stretchy fabric, or adjustable closures like buckles or laces that will allow more room for your leg. Find a boot with an angled top or wear tights that match your boot color to make your legs appear long and lean. If you have skinny calves, do the opposite: wear contrasting tights and choose boots that have ruffles, straps, or other three-dimensional detail.  If you have short legs, favor slim-fitted boots with heels to add length to your legs. Wear these boots with a slim-fitting skirt or pants, or tights in a matching color, to add to the appearance of length.  If you have wide feet, go for boots that have a round or almond-shaped toe rather than a pointed one. Avoid straps or buckles near the base of the boots, and try wearing bootcut pants over them to minimize the width of your feet. Look for well-made boots and spend a little more if you have to so that they’ll last longer.  Signs of quality boots are that they’re made of genuine leather, have a thick sole with good tread, and they seem solidly constructed (no loose threads, zippers that stick, etc.). To find the most comfortable boot, make sure you try on several sizes and walk around in them. Choose the size that feels comfortable, holds your ankle and heel in place, and has ⅜-½” of space beyond your big toe when standing. Invest in boots appropriate for bad weather so that you don’t ruin other boots that are not meant for rain, snow, etc.  Get a quality pair of rubber boots (or...


Match your makeup to your skin tone. Opt for mattifying concealers, liquid foundations, and setting powders. Pick products that are labeled as non-comedogenic or oil-free. Choose lightweight, blendable, full-coverage products. Select long-lasting formulas. Choose a “pore-eliminating” foundation primer for your base layer. Try concealers that are specially formulated for use on acne scars and breakouts. Use a color-correcting concealer to cancel out dark spots. Try airbrush makeup or spray-on foundation.

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A close match between your concealer, foundation, and skin tone will give you the most natural look. Look at your inner wrist under natural light to determine whether you have warm, neutral, or cool undertones. Visit a beauty store and test out a variety of products that are designed to flatter your shade and undertones.  Note that some products change color slightly after 1-2 hours of contact with the oils in your skin. For instance, the perfect shade of foundation might get yellowy by the end of the day. Try out samples to see what looks and feels the best after a full day of wear. If your skin gets paler or darker depending on the season, pick one set of products to match your summer skin tone and another for your winter shade. Makeup products that create a matte finish will visually soften and smooth the texture of your skin. Refrain from using dewy, luminous foundations and powders all over your face, since these tend to emphasize the texture of your skin. Unfortunately, some makeup and skincare products can clog your pores, which can make your acne worse. Read the labels on the products you choose to make sure they say they're non-comedogenic or oil-free. This means they shouldn't clog your pores. Most products will have this listed on the front, but it may be on the back label. Full coverage cosmetics are desirable as they will create an even canvas of color across your face. This will make any indentations less noticeable. Look for a full-coverage product that still feels lightweight and blendable on your skin. Products that offer moisturizing or emollient properties will blend nicely without leaving a dry, cakey residue.  Products with words like “camouflage” in the title are designed to cover up areas of discoloration, from dark spots to tattoos. These could be a good solution if your acne scars are significantly darker than the rest of your face.  If you want full coverage over your scars but lighter coverage on the rest of your face, try using a medium-coverage foundation or even a highly...


Match your ring to your outfit. Wear cocktail or statement rings as a formal feature. Wear simple bands as compliments to other accessories. Wear stackable rings with similarly styled rings. Space them out on your hands. Balance larger rings with other statement pieces. Choose rings that suit your personal style.

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Rings should be used to highlight the color scheme and formality of an outfit that you're wearing. Also, you want to wear the same color rings as you are with your necklace, bracelet, earrings, or whatever other jewelry you're wearing.  If you're wearing a silver necklace and silver earrings, for example, you don't want to wear all gold rings. Determine which rings are appropriate based on how casual your outfit is, what other jewelry you are wearing and how these rings can be mixed. These rings are larger and bolder than the average ring. These are meant to be worn alone, not combined with other rings. Wedding or engagement rings are often "formal" looking however most fashionistas agree that they can be worn with any other rings. Most rings that have precious stones should be reserved for dressy occasions. Bands are casual, but can also be considered formal as well. Always appropriate, these rings are simple or decorated metal rings. These can be worn with other rings on the same hand. Stackable rings are a new fashion where several rings are layered on the same finger to create a cluster effect. Precious stone version should not be mixed with rings on other fingers, whereas casual version are appropriate to mix. You don't want to be wearing too many rings all at once, or wear too many rings on one hand. Balance them evenly, so you're not wearing three rings on one hand and none on the other.  In addition to this, you want to space them out on your fingers. If you don't usually wear rings, try only wearing one for a while as a small accessory. One who chooses more minimal style can stack on many rings on both hands without over-doing it. For example, a simple silver band next to tiny, delicate silver midi ring worn at the first knuckle can be stylish. One who chooses to wear larger rings, like cocktail rings, should provide a balance by choosing one statement piece and either wearing it alone, or pairing it with more understated and delicate jewelry. Mixing metals is certainly acceptable, but sticking to...


Mate ducks for two weeks before collecting eggs for hatching. Collect the eggs daily to ensure they are as clean as possible. Set up an incubator for the fertilized eggs. Turn the eggs at least three times per day. Check for fertility after one week. Incubate for around 28 days. Do not interfere in the hatching process. Keep the ducklings in the incubator for twelve hours after hatching. Move the ducklings to a brooder. Leave the ducklings alone as much as possible for the first three days. Provide food and water. Raise your ducks for their intended use.

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This will allow the ducks proper time for mating and result in a high fertility in the eggs. It also gives the ducks and drakes time to settle down into mating. Collect eggs daily and store them in a cool, not cold, location while turning them once a day to prevent the membrane from sticking to the shell. They can be stored for 7-10 days before incubation. It is better to incubate them all at the same time so that they will all be at the same stage. Follow the instructions for your incubator (if you do not have them you might be able to find them online). Set your incubator to 99.5 degrees with a humidity of 86% to start out.  Run the incubator for a day or two before placing the eggs inside. This helps to check that it is keeping an even temperature. Humidity can usually be maintained by filling the water pans on the incubator and following the instructions. You can also spray the eggs with water every time you turn them. Muscovy ducks are very good brooders and mothers and will not necessarily need their eggs incubated. This also makes them easier to manage and breed. Eggs need to be turned. Some incubators will turn them automatically but if not then turn them an odd number of times per day. Turning is most critical during the first week of incubation. Turn them as often as you can. Use the candling technique to check if your eggs are fertile and remove any non-fertile eggs. Make the room dark and get a small flashlight. Hold it up to the egg and wrap your hand around the meeting place so that no light shines into your eyes. If you see clear, distinct veins then the egg is probably alive. Repeat candling once per week and remove any eggs that are not alive. Different breeds take different times to incubate. Mallards will take about 26.5-27 days, Runners will take 28.5 days,  and Muscovies will take longer, around 35 days. All other breeds will take around 28 days. The hatching process can take 3-5 days or even a bit longer and the ducklings may stay in the shell for an extra day or two to absorb the yolk...


Maximize all available space. Decide what kind of ramp you want to build. Create a blueprint to customize your design.

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Take a look at the space you have available not only for when the ramp is in use but also when it’s not. If you choose to build a portable ramp, make sure you take into consideration any storage issues. Conversely, you may not want to build a ramp if your yard doesn’t have adequate surrounding area for other activities.  The first thing you have to consider is where will you place your ramp when it is in use. Consider the terrain, if there are any obstructions, and if there are any issues that may arise with your neighbors or the city. Depending on how large you plan to make your ramp, your place of residence may have ordinances on measurements or noise so it’s best to check with anyone you may think will be affected. Consider what happens when your ramp is not in use. For example, will you need to store it and, if so, how will you transport it to and from different locations. If you don’t plan to store it, how much more resources will you have to spend in order to keep it maintained. Most likely you will have it outdoors so you have to consider how weather will affect its use. Moreover, when left outside, will it prevent you and your family from utilizing that space for anything else other than skateboarding. Some common places to use a skate ramp are the driveway, carport, and backyard. Ramps can be stored in the open when properly lifted off the ground, sealed and covered with a tarp. Increase your ramp’s longevity by shielding it from the elements Once you’ve got a good sense of the space available to you, plan out how involved you want your ramp to be. Whether you’re a beginner or an expert creating new tricks, the possibilities are endless.  Don’t be nearsighted. Just because you may only be focused on a single trick now doesn’t mean you won’t want to learn new ones. Try to keep your ramp as versatile as possible; however, start small if this is your first woodworking project. A small mini ramp is good for a limited amount of space and can be built into any shape. A ramp strictly for jumps can be...


Measure 12 ounces of lye. Measure 32 ounces of cold water. Add the lye to the water. Measure the oils. Combine the oils. Measure the temperature of the lye and oils. Add the lye to the oils. Add 4 ounces of essential oil once tracing occurs.

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Make sure that all of your ingredients are exactly the measurement that it is supposed to be, especially on smaller batches. Use the scale to make sure the measurement is exact, and pour the lye into the two-cup measuring cup. Use the scale to make sure the measurement is exact, and pour the water into a large, non-aluminum container, such as a stainless steel pot or glass bowl. Place the container of water under your stove's running exhaust fan, or make sure the windows are open and the room is well-ventilated. Add the lye to the water slowly, stirring gently with a spoon until the lye is completely dissolved.  It is very important to add the lye to the water and not the other way around; if you add the water to the lye, the reaction between the two substances is too quick, and may be dangerous. As you add the lye to the water, it will heat the water and release fumes. Keep your face turned away to avoid inhaling the fumes. Set the mixture aside. Allow it to cool and let the fumes dissipate. Use the scale to weigh out 24 ounces of coconut oil, 38 ounces of vegetable shortening, and 24 ounces of olive oil. Set a large stainless steel pot on the stove on low-medium heat. Add the coconut oil and vegetable shortening and stir frequently until melted. Add the olive oil and stir until all are completely melted and combined, then remove the pot from heat. Use different thermometers for the lye and oils, and continue to monitor their temperatures until the lye reaches 95-98 degrees Fahrenheit (35-36 degrees Celsius) and the oils are at the same or lower temperature. When the two substances have reached the proper temperatures, add the lye in a slow, steady stream to the oils.  Stir with a wooden or heat-resistant spoon; do not use metal. You may instead use a stick blender to stir the lye and oils. Continue to mix for about 10-15 minutes until "tracing" occurs; you'll see your spoon leave a visible trace behind it, like one you'd see when making pudding. If you're using a stick blender, this should occur within...


Measure 3–6 inches (7.6–15.2 cm) beyond the window frame for rod length. Select a rod with support brackets at least every 50 inches (130 cm).

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Extending your curtain rod 3–6 inches (7.6–15.2 cm) beyond the frame of your window makes your window seem larger and allows additional light to stream in. This way, when your curtains are open, they will rest against the wall rather than blocking the light from the window.  Note that some curtain rods are a fixed length, while others are spring-loaded and adjustable. If there isn't enough room on either side of the window for a rod that extends on either side, use 1 curtain panel instead of 2 and push it all the way to 1 side when you open it to keep the window from looking too small. Select a rod with curtain brackets a maximum of 50 inches (130 cm) apart for proper curtain-rod support. A rod that is longer than this without support brackets at this interval will have difficulty supporting the weight of your curtains. Make sure you install the brackets in a location where they won't interfere with hanging, opening, or closing the curtains.


Measure 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) above the window frames. Mark where you want to mount each bracket above the window frames. Drill into the marks with a drill bit that’s smaller than the curtain screws. Screw the brackets into the wall with a screwdriver.

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That’s how high you’ll want to mount the brackets. Hanging your curtains higher than the window frames will make your bay window look bigger. Mark your measurement on both sides of each window frame using a pencil.  Do this whether you're using multiple straight curtain rods or a single bay window curtain rod. Don't worry about this if you're using tension curtain rods. You can install tension rods in your window frames without brackets. One at a time, hold the brackets up to the wall and mark on the wall where the screw holes on the brackets are. You should have 2 brackets above each window frame in your bay window, with one on each end. Use the height marks you made earlier to make sure all the brackets are the same height. Make the holes deep enough that the screws will go all the way into the wall. Make sure you don’t use a drill bit that’s bigger than the curtain screws or the screws will be loose in the wall. Hold the brackets up on the wall so the screw holes are lined up with the drill holes you made. Then, tighten the screws into the holes until the brackets are secure against the wall. If you’re using a heavy curtain rod that came with wall anchors, hammer the wall anchors into the holes before you screw the screws in.


Measure a distance that is too long for a bar scale. Measure a curved line with straight line segments. Calculate distance to a point off the map.

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Determine if the distance between your two tick marks is too long to match up to the bar scale. In this case, you can either take several measurements with the bar scale to get the total, or use a ruler or tape measure instead.  To use the bar scale for a longer measurement, place the right tick mark on the farthest number on the primary scale. Make another mark on your paper where the extension scale ends on the left, and note this distance. Use your new mark as the right tick mark and measure using the bar scale as normal. Add this to your previous number to get the total distance. If you are measuring the distance between your tick marks or 2 points on a map using a ruler that is not long enough, try a tape measure for more length. Determine if the route you want to measure has multiple points or takes the shape of a curve rather than a straight line. In this case, take multiple straight line measurements and add them together.  Use a piece of paper to mark the distance on the map. Measure several straight lines along the curved routes and add them together. For the greatest accuracy, measure a greater number of smaller straight lines along a curved route. Determine if your map indicates the distance from the edge of the map to another popular destination not shown—like a town, highway or junction. Add this distance to a straight line measurement from your other point to the edge of the map.  Use a piece of paper or a ruler to measure the distance between point A to the edge of the map. Add the distance the marginal information of the map gives to the desired town or highway to get the total distance. Be sure that your units of measurement are the same before you add the two distances.


Measure all the doors and windows. Incorporate the walls, windows, and doors into your floor plan. Measure and convert the widths of all built-in fixtures.

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Measure the width of each door and window opening (without frames), and the distance from either side to the corners of the wall the window or door is on. Then, convert these measurements to your chosen scale. Draw each window as a set of double lines and each door as a single line (i.e., the fully-opened door) with an arc (i.e., the actual swing path of the door). Make sure you place each in the right position along the walls in your scale drawing. These include such items as counters and vanities, for example. Convert them to scale, and add them to your plan in the appropriate locations. You can find common architectural symbols for windows, doors, counters, vanities, and other room elements at http://www.the-house-plans-guide.com/blueprint-symbols.html.


Measure and cut a piece of carpet pad for each tread. Lay your padding sheets flush against the tackless strips and staple them securely. Pull the padding snugly over the stair nosing and staple every three inches. Verify the padding has been done correctly.

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Carpet pad is what gives the carpet it's pleasant feeling of cushion and softness, as well as protecting feet from possibly protruding tacks. Cut every piece to be the same length as the tackless strips, not the carpet runner itself. This will give the carpet a nice tapered end on either side when it's done. With all of your pieces ready, it's time to put them in place. Lay each sheet of padding down and take care to align it properly with the tackless strips.  Apply industrial staples at three inch intervals throughout the length of it. This time, it's a good idea to start from the bottom and work slowly up. That way, you'll be able to stand firmly on the padding while you're stapling subsequent steps. Taking the stair padding and tuck it under the nose of the step. Horizontal padding should be easier to accomplish now that you have the basics handled. Try to line up the staples on the heights' padding with the ones you've made for the treads. The nose is the part of the step that extends slightly past the drop, or height. The height, then, is the vertical part of the step. At this point, you shouldn't see any more of the tackless strips. They should be covered instead by the padding, both on the treads of the steps and the heights. All of this will be virtually invisible when it finally comes time to lay the carpet runner, but a single mistake here could make future steps impossible, so it's imperative you fix any potential issues before getting around to the carpet. If you're satisfied with your current work however, you may begin laying the runner.


Measure and cut the material you are using for the flute body. Mark the holes. Burn out the inside for bamboo flutes. Burn the hole marks. Sand through the holes. Sandpaper your flute.

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If you are using bamboo, measure a length of bamboo that is approximately 18-20” long, starting from just before one of the fibrous partitions of the bamboo stalk (this will be one of your ends). Mark it all the way around the stalk. Measure 18-20” from this line and make another mark all the way around the stalk. There should be at least a couple of fibrous partitions between each end, including the very last partition on one end. Cut both ends clean with a saw. Decide which side the top of your flute will be. Starting from the blocked end of your flute, measure 1” along the top and mark a hole (this is the mouth opening, or embouchure). Measure 3” from this first hole and mark a hole (this is the mokong hole, which will be covered by a dimo membrane). Measure another 3” from this mokong hole, and mark another hole (this is the first finger hole). Continuing on at 1” intervals from there, measure and mark another 5 holes for finger holes. You should end up with one mouth opening, one mokong, and 6 finger holes. These holes will end up being about ¼” in diameter. Burn out the inside to remove any fibrous material that might be inside the bamboo, stalk. Heat a ½” steel rod in a fire (do not use a kitchen oven) and hold the unheated end of the rod with protective oven mitts, as it will be very hot. Carefully insert the steel rod into the bamboo stalk, but do not poke it all the way through. Leave the blocked end intact. Twist the steel rod a few times to burn off any excess material inside the stalk. Remove the steel rod. Using protective oven mitts and vice grips, heat a ¼” drill bit in a fire (again, do not use a kitchen oven). Place the tip of the drill bit on top of each hole you marked. Twist gently to burn away the wood, but do not push it all the way through the hole (this may cause the bamboo to crack). Roll up a piece of 3x3 fine-grit sandpaper into a tube and place the end on top of one of the burned holes. Twist it back and forth to sand away the burned spots. The sandpaper tube should go through the...


Measure and grind the beans. Make the espresso. Make the espresso with another device as an alternative. Steam the milk. Add the milk to the espresso. Add sugar. Chill the drink.

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Making a cappuccino starts with making an espresso. Because you're going to be adding ice and watering down the beverage, it’s a good idea to start with a double shot, which requires about 20 g of coffee. Transfer the measured coffee beans to a grinder and grind them to a fine grind. A fine grind means the coffee will be about the same size as table salt. Transfer the coffee grinds to the portafilter. Use the tamp to press the beans into a compact puck. Place the portafilter back into the group head, and turn the handle to lock it in place. Place a cup below the portafilter. Turn on the water and let it run for 30 seconds. Turn off the water to stop extracting the shot. To make sure there's room for the milk later, pull the espresso into a 6- or 7-ounce (177- to 207- ml) cup. You can still make an espresso-type beverage without a proper machine, though you'll get the best results with a dedicated espresso maker. To make espresso at home without a machine, you can:  Use a stovetop moka pot. Fill the lower water reservoir with the water, and place the metal basket inside the reservoir. Fill the metal basket with the coffee grinds, and then twist on the lid and upper reservoir. Heat the moka pot over medium heat until coffee fills the upper reservoir.  Brew a strong pot of coffee. As a last resort, you can also brew coffee that’s twice as strong in place of the espresso. So if you normally use two scoops of coffee to make a two-cup pot of coffee, use four scoops and brew a pot. Pour the cold milk into the metal steamer jug. Insert the steam wand into the jug at a 45-degree angle, and position it so the tip is just below the milk’s surface. Turn on the steam and heat the milk to 149 F (65 C), until the milk has doubled in volume, or until the jug is very hot to the touch.  Heat the milk in a saucepan on the stove to steam it without an espresso maker. Bring the milk to a simmer over medium heat, but don’t let it boil. Simmer the milk for about five minutes, until it’s hot and bubbly.  A cappuccino is made up of...


Measure and mark 3 inches (7.6 cm) from the top and bottom of the wall. Draw a straight line in between the marks. Make another line in the center of the top and bottom marks. Draw 2 more lines in between the remaining lines. Hold a 1x3-inch (2.5 cm × 7.6 cm) board on top of the bottom line. Drill 5-inch (13 cm) deep pilot holes into the boards. Hammer 4-inch (10 cm) long spring spikes into the pilot holes. Attach boards to the rest of your lines. Draw a line in the center of your wall, vertically. Screw a vertical board in the center of the wall. Screw boards 16 inches (41 cm) apart from the centerboard. Frame all the walls in your basement.

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Use a tape measure and draw 2 marks on the left and right ends of the drywall. You should have a total of 4 marks on each wall. These lines will dictate where you will place your wooden planks for the frame. A completed wall frame looks like a grid made of wooden boards. Hold a level against your insulation and draw a straight line across the entire length of the wall, horizontally. Slide the level along the side of the wall and draw the line gradually until you've connected the 2 marks on the top of your wall. Repeat this process on the bottom of your walls so that you have a total of 2 horizontal lines running across your drywall. Measure the distance in between the top and bottom lines that you drew. Divide that number by 2 to get the exact center of the lines. Measure down from the top line and draw a straight horizontal line in between the bottom and top lines on your wall. For instance, if your bottom and top mark are 8 feet (2.4 m) away from each other, you'd measure 4 feet (1.2 m) down from the top mark and draw a line across your wall. Measure the distance in between the center line and top line. Divide this number by 2 and draw a line in the exact middle of the lines. Repeat the process between the middle line and bottom line. Your wall should now have a total of 5 horizontal lines running across the insulation. Line the bottom edge of a 1x3-inch (2.5 cm × 7.6 cm) board with the top of the bottom-most line you drew and have someone hold it in place. If you are using boards that are shorter than the width of your walls, you'll have to line up multiple boards so that they span across the entire width of the wall. The first pilot hole should go into the end of the board. Use a 3⁄16-inch (0.48 cm) masonry bit and a hammer drill to create a hole through the center of the board, insulation, and concrete wall. Then, drill an additional pilot hole every 16–20 inches (41–51 cm) apart down the length of the board. This will set up your board so that you can secure it to the wall. Spring spikes don't have a...


Measure and mark the size of your doorframe. Choose and purchase material for your door. Purchase 3 1 by 4 inches (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) boards for your frame. Buy 2 1 by 8 inches (2.5 cm × 20.3 cm) boards.

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Measure from one side of the door frame to the other side of the frame and subtract 12 millimetres (0.47 in) to each side. This extra space is needed so that you can properly open the door. Write down the length and the width of the doorframe on a piece of paper. Most shed doors will be somewhere between 25–45 inches (64–114 cm) wide and 5.5–7 feet (1.7–2.1 m) tall. You can use a T1-11 siding, which resembles wood paneling, or you can use plywood sheathing to construct the door. Another option is purchasing bead boards, which are boards that can interlock with one another. Use a material that blends in with the siding on the shed so that the door matches the aesthetic of your structure.  T1-11 siding and beadboards are sturdier than plywood sheathing. Get paneling or plywood that is at least 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) thick. Purchase 3 1 by 4 inches (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) boards that are as long as the height of the door. Purchase boards that are a foot or 2 longer than the height of your door and cut them down later to ensure that you have enough wood to construct the entire frame. These boards will act as the top and bottom of the frame that will go on top of your door. Get boards that are as long as the width of your door.


Measure and mark where the hinges will go on your shed. Screw the hinges into the shed with 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) lag screws. Line the door up into the doorframe. Screw the hinges into the door. Open and close your door to test if it works.

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Use a tape measure and mark 7 inches (18 cm), down, from the top of the door frame and 11 inches (28 cm) up from the bottom of the doorframe. If you already have hinges installed on your shed, you can skip this step. Screw in 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) lag screws into the holes on the hinge and into the frame itself. This should secure the hinges to your shed. Have a friend help you hold the door in place. Use a level to make sure that the door is straight, then open the hinge so that it rests over the surface of your door. Make sure that there is a 12 millimetres (0.47 in) gap in between the door and the shed’s door frame so that the door can properly open. While your friend continues to the hold the door in place, use a screwdriver to drive 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) lag screws through the holes in the top hinge and into the door. Then, repeat the process with the bottom hinge. Make sure that the screws are tight and the door feels secured to the shed’s door frame. You should now have a door that can open and close on your shed. If the door is getting stuck on the frame when you try to open it, you may have to sand down the edges of the door with a 36 to 100 grit sandpaper to slightly reduce the door’s size.


Measure and mark your drywall to fit on the wall. Cut out the drywall so it fits around obstructions. Apply glue to your wall studs. Press the drywall to the wall frame. Screw the drywall into the wall frame. Apply drywall to the rest of the walls. Apply wallpaper Paint the walls

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Purchase enough drywall online or at a hardware store so that you can cover all of your walls. Once you get the drywall, cut it out so that it matches the height of your walls. You'll also have to measure and mark the drywall to cut out holes to fit around obstructions on the walls. Drywall is available in varying types and thicknesses. For most basements, which are slightly damp, 1/2 inch greenboard is a good choice and should not be hard to find. Since drywall is more solid than insulation, you'll want to make your cuts straight lines and draw boxes around obstructions. Measure the area to compensate for obstructions and mark it with a pencil. Once the drywall is marked, use a razor blade or knife to cut along the marks. Apply drywall adhesive to the vertical studs on your frame. Make sure to get good coverage from the top to the bottom of the wood board. Line the drywall up to the wall and press it onto the wall frame. Then, hold it in place for a minute or 2 and let it set. Look at the wood studs next to the drywall. Line the screwdriver up to the wall frame studs and use drywall screws to secure the drywall to the wood. Put screws on the left and right side of the drywall. Then, put screws spaced 16 inches (41 cm) apart on the top and bottom wall frame studs. Check that your screws are the right length. They will need to go through the drywall and into the wood below. If they are too long, they may hit concrete behind the wood frame and not go in all the way. Repeat the process and cover all of the wall frames with drywall. This will act as the finished walls of your basement. to the walls. Purchase wallpaper and adhesive and apply sheets of it over the drywall to give your basement a finished look. Select designs and colors that match the aesthetic you want to achieve. if you don't want to wallpaper. Select a color you like and use a brush or roller to apply the paint over the surface of your walls. You'll probably want to spackle over the screw holes before you start painting or they may be visible on...


Measure and mark. Find and mark studs. Install and measure the cleat. Attach the cleat plate to the headboard. Hang and secure your headboard.

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First, decide exactly how high the headboard should be from the floor. Next, measure the height of the headboard itself to determine where the headboard cleat needs to be installed. Then mark the following measurements in pencil on the wall:  The height of the headboard's bottom from the floor. The height of its top from the floor. A fourth of the way down from its top (for the cleat). Use a stud-finder to locate studs behind the wall in the area where the headboard will be mounted. For a single cleat, find two consecutive studs that are closest to the center of your bed. Mark each one's location with pencil on the wall at the height of your third measurement (a fourth of the way down from the top of headboard).  Always mount your cleat to studs, even if it isn't perfectly centered over your bed. A slightly off-center cleat mounted to studs will be stronger than a perfectly centered cleat attached to drywall. King-size headboards require two cleats. In this case, find four consecutive studs that are closest to your bed's center. Standard spacing between studs is 16” (41 cm). Screw the cleat into the studs. Test to make sure it is secure and immobile. Then measure from the bottom of the cleat to where the bottom of the headboard will be once mounted. Always test the cleat before hanging your headboard to make sure it is strong enough to support its weight. To find out where to attach the cleat plate, refer to your instructions, since the size of the cleat and plate may vary by brand or model. Determine exactly how much height to add to your previous measurement. Then mark the back of your headboard at this new height.  Make sure the placement of your marks on the headboard align with the cleat on the wall. The cleat plate on the back of the headboard should fit directly over the installed cleat. First, mount your headboard by lifting its cleat plate up and over the installed cleat so it fits between that and the wall. Next, use your stud-finder to locate two new studs behind the headboard, one on each side,...


Measure around your waist and add two inches (5.08 centimeters). Divide your skirt's waist size by 6.28 to get your first radius. Fold your felt in half and find the midpoint of the fold. Create your compass. Pull the string taut and use the pen to draw a half circle. Measure down from your waist to two inches (5.08 cm) below your knee. Adjust your compass. Cut the large circle out first, then the small one.

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Making a circle skirt requires a bit of basic geometry, but it is easier than it might seem. First, you will need to measure your waist to get your skirt's waist size. Use a tape measure and then write down the measurement. Then, add two inches or 5.08 centimeters to this measurement. For example, if the waist measurement is 30 inches, the skirt's waist will need to be 32 inches. You are making the skirt's waist a little bit larger because you will need to bunch up the material. Write this number down. You will need this number to help you cut out the right size waist for your skirt. For example, if your skirt's waist is 21 inches, then your first radius will be about 3.34 inches. Use your marker or some tailor's chalk to make a mark on this point. You will be using this point to create half circles that will help you to mark and cut out the waist of your skirt. If your felt is black, or a dark color, try using a light-colored fabric pen or a piece of chalk. You will need to create a compass using a piece of string, a pen, and a pin. This will ensure that you cut out the waist in the correct measurement.  Take a long piece of string and tie it around a pen. Then, measure the end of the string extending from the pen. It will need to be the same length as your radius. For example, if your radius is 3.34 inches, then measure the string to this length. Tie a knot, do not cut as cutting the string will leave a frayed edge that the pin will instantly slip out of. This way you can use ONE string with three knots:  one knot to pin the string to the fold of the fabric, a second knot for the waistline circle, and third knot for the hemline circle. Waist and hemline knots must be at correct distance from center-top pin. Then, pin the end of the string to the mark you made in the felt. You will be using the pen and string like a compass to draw your circles. You might need to anchor the pin to the table with tape to keep it from dragging the fabric around as you draw the half-circles. Leave the fabric folded in half and...


Measure at the same time every day. Get ready to monitor your blood pressure. Sit properly for the test. Inflate the cuff to test. Remain calm. Take off the cuff. Do additional tests. Write down your results.

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Test your blood pressure at the same time every day. This helps ensure the most accurate reading. Consider measuring your blood pressure when you are most relaxed — in the mornings and evenings. You may also want to ask your doctor the best time to run the test for your purposes. Different factors can influence your blood pressure. Getting yourself ready to take the reading can ensure you get the most accurate readings. Before you test:  Make sure you’ve been awake and out of bed for at least 30 minutes. Stay away from food and beverages 30 minutes before the test. Avoid caffeine and tobacco for 30 minutes before you test yourself. Avoid any type of physical activity or exercise for 30 minutes before testing. Make sure to empty your bladder. Make sure to read the device instructions before you do any testing. It’s important to maintain proper arm and body positioning before and during your test. Sitting in a supported and upright position helps ensure the most accurate reading. In addition, you may want to sit and relax for a few minutes to help stabilize your pressure and further prepare yourself to get an accurate reading.  Avoid moving or talking when you’re taking your blood pressure reading. Sit upright with your back supported. Place and keep your feet flat on the floor without crossing your legs. Place the cuff directly above the eye, or crook, of your elbow. Support the cuffed arm on a table, desk, or the arm of a chair. Keep it at the level of your heart by propping it up with a pillow or cushion. After you’re comfortable and have sat quietly for a few minutes, start the test. Turn on the machine or test as calmly as you can so that you don’t elevate your pressure. Remove the cuff and/or abort the test if the cuff becomes uncomfortable, too tight or if you get lightheaded at any point. During the test, avoid moving or talking and remain as calm as possible. This can help you get the most accurate reading. Stay in the same position until the testing stops, the cuff deflates, or the monitor displays...


Measure equal parts of vinegar and dish soap. Warm the vinegar in the microwave. Combine the vinegar and soap in a spray bottle and shake it to mix. Spray the mixture over the tile and let it sit. Wipe the tile down with a damp sponge and rinse it clean. Dry the tile.

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To make homemade soap scum cleaner, you’ll need equal parts of white vinegar and dish soap. You can make as little or as much of the cleaner as you’d like, so adjust the amounts accordingly to have 1 part of each. If you want to make enough of the cleaner to use repeatedly, it’s best to measure between 1 and 2 cups (237 to 473 ml) of both the vinegar and dish detergent. Once you’ve measured out the vinegar and dish soap, transfer the vinegar to a microwave-safe bowl. Heat it in the microwave for 30 seconds to 1 minute or until it is hot but not boiling. Heating the vinegar makes it easier to blend it with the thick dish soap. After you’ve heated the vinegar, pour it into a spray bottle. Add an equal amount of the dish soap, and secure the lid on the bottle. Shake it well to mix the two. Test the spray after you’ve mixed it. If it’s too thick to spray, you can mix in a little bit of warm, distilled water to thin it out. When you’re ready to use the cleaner, spray a generous amount over the affected tile. Allow the spray to sit on the tile for at least 30 minutes so it has time to cut through the soap scum. If the tile has a particularly thick layer of soap scum, you may want to leave the spray on the surface for an hour or longer. After you’ve let the cleaner sit on the tile for a half hour or longer, use a damp sponge to wipe the soap scum and residue away.  Next, spray the area with warm water to rinse it completely clean.  If the soap scum isn’t wiping away on the sponge, you can use a soft scrub brush to work on the stubborn areas. Scrub lightly, though, to avoid scratching the tile. If you don’t have a spray bottle to rinse the tile, wet a clean cloth or rag with warm water to rinse it. Once the tile is rinsed clean, use a clean towel or rag to wipe down the surface so it is completely dry. Keep the bottle of cleanser with the rest of your cleaning supplies, and use anytime that you notice soap scum buildup. The homemade soap scum cleaner should stay effective for 6 months to 1 year.


Measure for the proper grip size. Choose a normal, 27-inch long racquet unless you want the added power of extended length racquets. Know the three major styles of tennis racquets. Buy a large, head-balanced racquet if you are a beginner. Purchase a less powerful racquet if you are big, athletic, or already a powerful hitter. Know the differences in racquet material when buying. Test out a few racquets before buying.

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Adult grips range from 4 to 4 & 5/8ths inches. To find yours, measure from the middle line in your palm to the top of your middle finger -- this is your grip size, in inches.  Another good rule of thumb is to hold the racquet in your dominant hand, like you would hold it to play. Slide the index finger of the opposite hand in between the tips of your fingers and the base of your palm on the racquet. If there isn't enough room for your index finger, the racquet grip is too small. If there is a lot of extra room, the racquet grip is too large. If you're between two sizes, choose the smaller one because you can always increase the circumference by adding an overgrip tape (a soft, padded, cloth-like tape wrapped around the grip). The traditional length of racquet is about 27 to 28 inches (68.6 to 71.1 cm), but you can get longer racquets of up to 29 inches (73.7 cm). The longer the length of the racquet, the greater the leverage on a swing, therefore giving more power to a shot.  The trade-off, however, is that longer racquets are a little less maneuverable and difficult to aim. Beginners should start with a normal, 27" racquet. Depending on your needs, skill level, and style of play, you'll need a different racquet to reach your full potential. The three most common styles are:   Power/Game Improvement Racquets: Characterized by large heads, longer style, and light weight, these are mostly for beginners-intermediate players or anyone who wants a little more power on their shot.  Tweener Racquets: This well-balanced racquet is designed for all levels of skill and offer a good balance of power, control, and maneuverability.  Control/Player's Racquets: The professional design, these racquets have small heads designed for maximum control. The player adds in their own power to the shot. They can be long or short, and are generally heavier than other racquets. If you're starting to play tennis you want a forgiving racquet that allows for plenty of power without over-swinging. Choose a grip that fits you well and aim...


Measure from one side of the window to the other. Buy a tension rod that will fit inside your window. Adjust the tension rod so it's slightly longer than the width of your window. Insert the rod into the window frame and mark where each end is. Take down the rod and hang your curtains on it. Hang up the tension rod and curtains.

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Start at the inner edge of the window frame and measure to the opposite inner edge to get the window's width. You'll use the width to purchase to the right size tension rod for your curtains. Tension rods have a spring mechanism inside of them that creates tension when the ends of the rod are pressed against a window frame. If the rod is too short, there won't be enough tension, and if the rod is too long, there will be too much tension. Tension rods generally list a window size range on the packaging, so look for one that will work based on the width of your window.  You can find tension rods online or at your local hardware store. If you have particularly heavy curtains, you may want to try adhesive strips instead of a tension rod. A tension rod is best for small, lightweight curtains. The right way to adjust the length of your tension rod will depend on the model you're using, but generally, you'll pull or twist on the rod. You want the tension rod to be slightly longer than the width of your window so there's enough tension to hold it in place. If you're not sure how to adjust the length of your tension rod, refer to the instructions that came with it. Use a pencil to draw a circle around each end of the tension rod where it pushes into the frame. Use a level to make sure the rod is even before you make your marks. Slide the hoops or fasteners on your curtains onto the rod. Make sure all of the panels you want to use are on and facing the right direction since you'll need to take the tension rod down if you want to adjust them. If your curtains have clips instead of hoops, you don't need to take the tension rod down to hang them up. Insert the tension rod into the frame so the ends are aligned with the marks you made earlier. If the rod doesn't feel secure, you may need to take it down and adjust it so it's longer and there's more tension.


Measure from the extension box to the garage ceiling. Saw a piece of conduit to size. Connect the conduit tube to the extension box. Place a conduit hanger to hold the tube to the wall. Measure from the right-angle connector to the wall corner. Cut the tubing and place it on the right-angle connector. Install a conduit hanger if the tubing is long. Add an elbow connector to the end of the conduit. Continue hanging tubing until you reach the center of the garage door.

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Get out a stepladder and tape measure. Start measuring from the top of the box itself, not the conduit connector. Once you have a number, subtract 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) from it so the conduit won’t be right up against the ceiling later. The conduit is made from electrical metallic tubing or EMT, which can be purchased cheaply from home improvement stores. Using a hacksaw, cut the tubing to the length you need. Use a file to smooth over any sharp edges you notice. To get a rough estimate of how much EMT you will need, measure up to the ceiling, then measure to the center of the garage door. Add the 2 measurements together. Place a right-angle conduit connector on one end of the tube. Slide the tube’s free end over the metal connector on top of the extension box. Undo the screw holding the hanger’s prongs together. Halfway up the conduit tube, put the hanger’s prongs around it. Position the hanger so it is between the wall and the tube. Connect the hanger’s prongs with the screw you removed earlier. Then place a #10 or 5 mm screw in the hole on the hanger’s other end to secure it to the wall. Keep the conduit tube as vertically straight as possible before securing it to the hanger. Check this by looking up and readjusting it. Use a magnetic torpedo level to get it perfect. Use the tape measure to gauge how much conduit tubing you’ll need to reach the corner. Hold a conduit elbow connector in the corner near the door. You will need to connect it to the right-angle connector with the tubing. Saw the tubing like you did before. Climb up on the ladder and slide the tubing into the free end of the right-angle connector. The tube should reach the wall corner near the door. If the tubing is longer than 12 in (30 cm), secure it with a hanger. Place the hanger about halfway along the tube. Hold the tube between the hanger’s prongs and screw the hanger to the wall like you did earlier. The elbow connector is a bent connector. It should be placed in the corner of the garage’s side and front wall. Slide it over the end of the...


Measure hand length for large hands. Hold your hand up in the air as though you were about to wave.

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If your hands are especially large or long, you may need to use the hand length instead of the hand circumference to find the right glove size. Most gloves are made for hands that are relatively even in length and width. Thus, if your hands are significantly longer than the average hands, you may only fit into the largest glove sizes even if your palms are not especially thick. Point your fingertips toward the ceiling.


Measure how long and high the ramp needs to be. Wear eye glasses and a dust mask before cutting wood. Cut 2 pine boards to the length of the ramp using a miter saw. Use the side boards to measure and cut the ramp’s length. Create 2 side supports as long and as thick as the ramp. Slice 2 more pine boards to create the ramp’s legs. Cut out 4 boards needed to assemble the base.

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Choose the spot where you plan on using the ramp. Starting at the top of the area you wish to help the dog reach, measure straight down to the ground to determine the height the ramp needs to be. To determine the ramp’s length, measure from the top of the area down to the ground at a gentle slope your dog will be able to walk up.  A few places where a ramp may be useful include near a steep step, couch, or bed. The ramp can be as long as you want it to be, although longer ramps can be more difficult to move and store. Make sure that the ramp’s slope isn’t too steep for your dog. If your dog is older or has trouble climbing small steps, keep the angle very gentle. Elongate the ramp as needed to avoid steepness. You will need to cut several pieces of wood in order to construct the ramp. Before operating a saw, protect your eyes and airways. Avoid wearing gloves, jewelry, or other long clothing that can get caught under saw blades.  Many home improvement stores will cut the wood for you if you buy it from them. Take all of your measurements in advance to reduce the amount of sawing you need to do at home. Also wear safety gear when drilling and assembling the ramp, since wood dust and shards are still a risk. These pine boards will make up the ramp’s frame. They should always be as long as the ramp you plan on installing. You can easily cut these pieces to length using a miter saw or jigsaw. Hand saws are another easy method you can use, but cheaper blades tend to blunt quickly. For an average-sized ramp, use boards 3⁄4 in (1.9 cm) thick. Cut them 50 in (130 cm) long and 3 1⁄2 in (8.9 cm) wide. Lay a piece of plywood down on a flat surface, then adjust the pine boards to determine how wide you want the ramp to be. A reasonable width for many dogs is 12 inches (30 cm), although you can widen the ramp to compensate for larger dogs. Trace the side boards in pencil on the ramp, then cut it to size.  For a bigger ramp, get a piece of plywood that is 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) thick. Trim it so it is 48 in (120 cm) long and...


Measure its size. Look for the presence of a vocal sac. Check the size of the ears. Look for pads next to the thumbs. Look for less-common differences in appearance.

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For most species of frog, males are noticeably smaller than females. Tree frogs generally range from 1-5.5 inches (3-14 centimeters) depending on the precise species.. Females are typically about half an inch longer and slightly heavier than males of the same species. The reason for this has to do with the way frogs mate. Males have to climb all the way onto females' backs to mate, so the female has to be larger so that the male's weight doesn't hurt her. Since male frogs do the vast majority of the croaking (more on this below), they usually have specially-constructed throats designed for this purpose. Most male frogs (including tree frogs) have something called a "vocal sac" on their throats. This sac can inflate full of air like a balloon when the frog croaks. When the frog isn't croaking, the deflated sac may make the skin on the throat seem more thin and baggy than on female frogs. In addition, the skin of the vocal sac will often be a different color than the rest of the underside. Yellowish or black shades are common. Instead of having ears that stick out from their heads like humans, frogs' ears are flat discs of skin on the sides of their heads behind their eyes. These discs are sometimes (but not always) a different color than the skin around them. Male frogs tend to have ears that are larger than their eyes. By contrast, female frogs tend to have ears that are about the same size as their eyes (or slightly smaller. Male frogs (including tree frogs) often have special features on their hands and arms that make it easier to cling to female frogs' backs for mating purposes. For example, male frogs sometimes have a patch of rough, raised flesh on each of their thumbs. If the thumb seems to be larger and thicker than the other digits, especially at its base, the frog is probably a male. This feature may be difficult to see except in the breeding season, when it enlarges in time for mating. There are many other external features that can vary between male and female frogs. A few of these are listed...


Measure out a portion of oats. Pulse the oats in a food processor. Stir to mix in any stray oats, then pulse again. Use or store your oat flour at once.

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The type of oats traditionally used for oat flour are called "rolled oats." These can be bought for cheap at many grocery stores, but are not always available. Luckily, you can use instant, quick-cook, or steel cut as well -- the only difference is grain size, and you're grinding them all up anyway.  Don't use oats that have been flavored in any way, as this flavor will work into your final dish. Plain oats are best. If you're going to be using your oat flour in a recipe immediately, measure out more oats than the recipe calls for. Once you turn them into flour, they'll settle and take up a smaller volume. You'll generally end up with about 3/4 of the volume of oats you started with. Any standard blender or "Magic Bullet"-type device will also work well.In a pinch, you could use a coffee grinder. Be sure to clean it out first unless you want coffee-flavored flour. Pulse for 30 seconds or until the oats reach a fine, powdery consistency. They should look a lot like traditional plain, all-purpose wheat flour.  No blender? There are a variety of ways to make manual flour, but you need to know they will take a while. You could try:  Mincing: Using your sharpest knife, rock it back and forth over a small pile of oats to quickly chop them up. They will be a little bigger than a real flour, but will still work.  Grinding: Using a mortar and pestle, grind the oats into a powder.  Mashing: A last-ditch effort, put the oats in a resealable plastic bag, squeeze the air out, and start crushing as if washing clothing by hand. Note that this will likely take a long time. It can be hard to tell whether any extra oats remain in your flour, so open the food processor or blender and stir the powder a few times to be safe. Pulse again for 10 seconds or so. Your oat flour is ready to use right away. You can use it roughly how you would use plain flour ordinarily, substituting it into recipes. If you need to save some, use the same rules you would use for ordinary flour. Keep it in a cool, dry place in an airtight container. Oat...


Measure out a small amount of lip balm or petroleum jelly. Place the lip balm or petroleum jelly onto a flat surface. Sprinkle some ground cinnamon onto it. Mush the ground cinnamon into the lip balm or petroleum jelly. Use your finger the rub the lip plumper onto your lips. Wait 3 to 5 minutes. Wipe the lip balm off with a tissue.

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About a pea-sized amount will do for this one-time-use lip plumper. If you can't find any lip balm or petroleum jelly, you can also use one of the following:  Almond oil Cocoa butter Coconut oil Olive oil Shea butter This can be a blending palette, a dish, or even a jar lid. Make sure that it is clean! Cinnamon is naturally stimulating. It will help make your lips appear fuller by increasing blood flow to them. If you can't find any ground cinnamon, try ground ginger or cayenne pepper instead. Both have lip-plumping capabilities as well. You can do this using the back of a spoon or the flat side of a butter knife. If you have a small spatula, such as the kind used for cake decorating, you can use that instead. Keep blending and smooshing until the two are evenly combined. If you don't want to get your finger all sticky, you can apply the lip plumper using a lipstick brush or a q-tip. During this time, your lips will start to feel tingly. This is normal, and a sign that the lip plumper is working! If you'd like, you can follow up with your favorite lip gloss or tinted lip balm.


Measure out about 8 fluid ounces (240 mL) of water. Avoid boiling the water. Warm your water in a pot for a convenient option. Use a tea kettle for the perfect temperature. Keep your skin away from the steam. Pour your hot water into a mug or teacup.

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It's best to heat a cup full at time, as any excess water will cool before you have a chance to use it. You can use your measuring cup or your mug to measure out your desired amount of water. If you boil too much water, it's best to pour out the excess water instead of reheating it. If you want more hot water, use fresh water for your next cup. You'll have a long wait ahead of you if you boil your water, as drinking it will scald your mouth. Also, your water may not taste as good, since heating can alter the taste of the water. Watch your water to make sure it doesn't boil. Don't leave it unattended! As you watch your water, wait until it starts to bubble. First, small bubbles will form along the pan and release. Wait until you see steam coming off the water, as well as larger bubbles traveling up from the bottom of the pot. This signals your water is the proper temperature. Be careful when handling the pot. Make sure you only touch it by the handle or use a potholder or tea towel. Tea kettles are designed for heating water for drinking. You may not be making tea, but you can still use a kettle to warm your water! Simply put the kettle on the stove and wait for it to whistle, which tells you the water is ready. You can even purchase a tea kettle with a built in thermometer to help you know when to turn off your burner. Since you aren't brewing tea, you can turn it off as soon as the water reaches your preferred temperature, if you have one. On average, most people prefer drinking hot beverages at about 136 °F (58 °C). If it touches your skin, steam can cause a thermal burn. It's best to avoid direct contact with the steam, either when the water is heating up or when you're pouring it into a mug. Always pour away from your body. Use a potholder or towel to protect your hand as you pour. Don't hold your hand over the steam to see if your water is warm. Similarly, don't put your face directly over the pot to check for steam and bubbles. Gently pour the water, letting it slowly flow into the mug to prevent...


Measure out an appropriate portion size. Try other whole grains. Choose healthy cooking methods. Ask for your rice options at restaurants.

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Portion sizes are a very important part of an overall nutritious and balanced diet. If you're going out of the way to choose a nutritious grain, make sure you incorporate it into your diet in a healthy manner.  Choosing a more nutritious food, like a whole grain rice, is a great start to a healthy diet. However, if you eat larger portions of even these healthier foods, you may still be consuming too many calories for your body. Since grains are a carbohydrate rich group, it's important to measure the appropriate portion size. Make sure you're measuring the appropriate portion size of your whole grain rice. Go for 1/2 cup of cooked whole grain rice per serving.  In addition, you want to incorporate them in the right amounts. It's not a good idea to eat several servings of grains each day. Go for 2-3 servings of whole grains everyday. The rest of your day should be divided up with lean protein, fruits and vegetables. Although brown rice, wild rice or even sprouted rice are all wonderful sources of a variety of nutrients, you should consider trying some other whole grains as well.  One aspect that's important to a healthy diet is variety. Even if you eat nutritious foods each day, if you have a very limited and unvaried diet, you're missing out on the nutrients that are available from other foods.  In addition to whole grain rice, try other whole grain foods like: millet, farro, quinoa, teff, amaranth, oats or whole grain wheat. For example, you could have a bowl of whole grain oatmeal for breakfast, a sandwich made with whole wheat bread for lunch and serve your favorite chicken and vegetable stir fry with sprouted brown rice for dinner. Although there aren't too many different cooking methods for rice and other grains, it's still important to make sure that you're using healthy cooking techniques.  Although whole grain rice does come with many health benefits it wouldn't make sense to cook it with a lot of added fat, sugar or sodium. For basic cooking, boil rices in water or even low sodium or homemade broth....


Measure out fold marks for your rectangle. Make indentations in your rectangle. Accordion fold your rectangle. Wrap the bottom of your accordion. Glue on popsicle sticks.

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Place your rectangle vertically, face down.  Take a ruler, and on one of the long sides, draw a small pencil mark every half-inch.  Do this until you get to the bottom of the rectangle.  Do the same thing on the other long side, making a pencil mark every half-inch. Find a ballpoint pen and take the cap off.  Place your ruler on your rectangle, connecting two marks (one on each long side) that are directly apart from one another.  Run the pointy end of the cap between the two pencil marks, connecting them.  Apply enough pressure so that you can see an indentation in the paper or fabric.  Do this between every two pencil marks that are directly across from one another. When you are done, you should have a piece of paper or fabric that has an indentation going across it every half-inch.  These indentations are where you will fold your fan. Lay your rectangle vertically, face down.  Start at the bottom, by taking the bottom edge in your hands.  Fold up along the indentation you made.  Flip your rectangle over, so that it is still vertical, but face up.  Take the bottom edge (the indentation you just folded) in your hands.  Fold it up along the next indentation mark.  Continue to repeat this step until you have folded the entire rectangle.  Flip, fold up, flip fold up, etc.  Always keep your previously folded section near you when you flip your rectangle. If you want to, you can run a ruler down each fold you make so that the creases are sharper.  However, if you have painted on a design, it could be damaged by adding pressure to the fold.  Keep this in mind, and proceed with caution. First, press your accordion together, and place a semi-heavy object, like a paperweight, on top of it.  Next, you will want to get out some masking tape.  Use a pair of scissors to cut a strip of masking tape that is 1/2 inch wide, and 7-8 inches long.  Take your tightly folded accordion and position it vertically.  Wrap this strip of tape around the bottom of your accordion while it is still scrunched together.  If you have a...


Measure out four ounces (1/2 cup) of your chosen base oil. Use a funnel to transfer the oil into a dark brown or cobalt blue bottle. Cut the tops off of four caplets of vitamin E (400 IU each). Add a few drops of essential oil if desired. Mix the oils together.

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Use your measuring cup to measure out your oil. Since you will be using this oil on your skin and hair, you will need to make sure that the oil you choose is organic and non-comedogenic. Non-comedogenic oils will not clog your pores and are less likely to cause breakouts. Some good choices include:  argan oil hemp seed oil sunflower oil safflower oil The funnel will help to make sure that you do not spill the oil. Insert the funnel into the bottle and then pour in the four ounces of oil that you have measured out. The dark brown or blue bottle will protect the vitamin E oil from getting degraded and oxidized by light. Leave the funnel in place and pour the vitamin E oil out of the caplets and into the bottle containing the base oil.  Or, if you prefer, you can use a needle to make a hole in the caplet and then squeeze the Vitamin E into the bottle. If you have vitamin E oil in liquid form instead of in caplets, then measure out about one teaspoon and add it to the base oil. To add a scent, add 3-5 drops of an essential oil of your choice. Pour the drops into the bottle containing the base oil and vitamin E oil. Some great essential oils to use include:  rose lilac lavender orange lemon peppermint Secure the cap on the bottle and turn the bottle upside down. Then turn it right-side up and then upside down again. Repeat this inversion several times to make sure that the oils are all mixed together.