Remove the dry dust bag and filter if your wet vacuum has a dry option. Direct the vacuum hose into the toilet. Turn the vacuum on to start sucking up the water. Check the vacuum’s collection tank to retrieve the item. Empty the collection tank and vacuum again. Flush the toilet to refill the toilet bowl with water.

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First, remove the top of the vacuum’s collection tank. Then, following the instructions for your particular vacuum model, remove the dry dust bag and filter from the collection tank. This will keep both the dust bag and filter from getting wet and growing mildew over time.  After removing the dry dust bag and filter, put the top back on the collection tank. Plug in the vacuum cord and turn on the vacuum. Then, hold onto the hose of the vacuum and direct the end of the hose into the toilet. Push the hose as far down the drain as possible. You may feel or hear the item move as you push the hose down. If so, direct the end of the hose so that the opening points at the item. Turn the vacuum on to start sucking up the toilet water. Keep sucking up the water until you hear the object pass through the hose, or until the collection tank is full. Some wet/dry vacuums have a separate setting when vacuuming water, so make sure that you turn your vacuum on accordingly. If you heard or saw the item go through the vacuum’s hose, or if the collection tank is starting to get full, turn the vacuum off. Then, remove the top of the vacuum’s collection tank and look into the tank to see if the item was sucked up through the hose. If you see the item, you can retrieve it with your hands, a shovel, or any item with a scoop or hook on the end. If you don’t see the item in the collection tank but you suspect that it was sucked up, check the vacuum’s hose as well. The item may have gotten lodged in the hose. If the item is not in the collection tank or hose, it’s likely that it’s still in the toilet. To try again, first empty the water out of the collection tank. Then, put the hose back into the drain and turn the vacuum on again. Keep vacuuming until you hear or see the item get sucked into the hose, or until the collection tank gets full again. You may need to repeat this process a few times before the item gets sucked up into the vacuum. After you’ve retrieved the item, flush the toilet once or twice. The toilet bowl should refill...


Remove the dust from the ceiling fan if you have one. Dust the light fixtures using a cleaning cloth. Clean any mirrors in the room. Wipe the windows Use a vacuum cleaner to clean the blinds or wash the curtains. Dust all of the surfaces in the room. Wipe down all of the surfaces to get a sparkling clean. Sweep and mop or vacuum the floor. Do the laundry. Wash the dishes.

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Dust very easily accumulates on ceiling fans! Spray multi-purpose cleaner on a cleaning cloth or a paper towel. Then wipe down each fan blade starting from the center of the fan fixture and ending at the tip of the blade. Alternatively, you can use a ceiling fan duster instead. Always turn the fan off before you clean it. Turn off the light before you begin so that you don’t burn your hand. Then get a soft cloth and stand up on the bed or on a chair. Wipe down the inside and the outside of the light fixture to remove any dust or dirt. It’s best to keep your old sheets on the bed while you do this in case any dust or spiderwebs fall. Get a clean microfiber cloth and dampen it very lightly with warm water. Buff the mirror using small, circular motions to remove any grime. If there are stubborn marks, try using a tiny amount of dish soap with the warm water and scrub the mark to remove it. Excess water on mirrors can cause streaks. Use a dry microfiber cloth to wipe down the mirror if you notice any excess water. with window cleaner. Having clear windows will make the room look even brighter. Get a microfiber cloth and lightly spray the window with window cleaner. Wipe the window down using the cloth to remove any dust, dirt, or stains. Then use a dry cloth to remove any excess cleaner and to keep the window streak-free! Avoid using newspaper to clean the windows, as the ink can run. Close the blinds and place the brush attachment on the vacuum cleaner. Run the vacuum over each individual blind to remove all of the dust and dirt. Then turn the blinds to the opposite direction and vacuum the other side.  You can dust each blind individually, however, this may take longer. If you have curtains, remove and wash them (following the care tag instructions) every 2-3 months. Use a microfiber cloth to dust any surfaces like tables, window sills, and cabinets. Always start from the highest surface and work your way down towards the floor. This stops dust from accumulating where you have already cleaned. Don’t forget to...


Remove the edge pins, then pull the wig cap off of the wig head. Sew the darts using the pins you inserted as a guide. Cut down the seams. Go over the raw edges using a zigzag stitch, if desired. Trim off any loose threads. Finish the wig cap as desired.

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Remove the pins securing the netting to the wig head, then slip it off. Do not remove the pins holding the darts together. Do not remove the mold you pinned earlier to the wig head. You can do this on a sewing machine, a serger, or by hand. If you are using a sewing machine, be sure to backstitch at the start and end of your sewing. Remove the pins as you sew, and make sure to use a thread color that matches the lace. If you sewed the darts on a sewing machine or by hand, you will still have triangular flaps sticking out of the seams. Cut these down until the seams are 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 inch (0.64 to 1.27 cm) wide. Skip this step if you used a serger, as the machine will have already done this for you. You don’t have to do this, especially if you used a serger, but it will give you a nicer finish. Remember to use a matching thread color and to backstitch (if you are using a sewing machine). Skip this step if you used a serger. The seams are already finished. Go over your wig cap and cut off any loose or hanging threads. If you want an even nicer finish, consider tacking down the seams by hand so that they lay flat. At this point, you can trim off the excess lace to match the hairline. You can also hem the lace, as desired, or sew in an elastic. You can also sew a stretch or ventilating panel to the top, then cut the netting out from under it. If you are making a lace front wig, do not trim off the excess lace along the front hairline. You will need this to glue the wig down.


Remove the eggs from the tank. Create good hatching conditions. Keep the tank at the right temperature. Make sure to have a filtration system. Aerate the tank. Place smooth gravel at the bottom of the tank.

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You want to remove the eggs as soon as they are laid. If you are intentionally breeding goldfish, you may have spongy material known as "spawning mops." Goldfish may also lay their eggs in fixtures in the tank, such as underwater castles. Wherever your goldfish have spawned on, remove this material from the tank.  Gently flush the material in clean water. You want to make sure any debris from the tank is removed. Once the material is removed and flushed, you can transfer it to a new environment. Once the eggs hatch, you want to make sure the conditions in your tank are safe and hospitable. Transfer your eggs to a clean environment.  When you place the fry eggs in the aquarium, do not fill the tank too deep. Ideally, a fry aquarium should only have water 6 to 7 inches deep. The eggs should hatch 4 to 5 days after being laid. Goldfish fry require warmer temperatures than average fish to thrive. You'll need to keep the tank between  70–75 °F (21.1–23.9 °C). You may need to install a heater, which you can purchase at a local pet store, in the tank. Keep a thermometer in the tank so you can make sure the water is always around the proper temperature. Fish tanks get dirty very easily without proper filtration, which can be particularly dangerous for young fish. Stop by your local pet store and pick up a power filter, which is a filtration system that hangs on the back of a goldfish tank.  Filtration systems are generally simple to install as long as you follow instructions carefully. They can usually be fitted onto the bank of most fish aquariums. There is really no such thing as too much filtration when it comes to goldfish, as they're particularly messy. It may be a good idea to install two filters. In the event one filter gives out, a second filter can pick up the slack. Exposure to germs, even for a brief period, can be dangerous for young goldfish fry. An aeration system must be put in place to make sure your fish get enough oxygen. Air stones or bubble wands, which you can purchase at most pet stores, work...


Remove the existing ceiling drywall Reinforce the floor above (recommended). Install insulation between the ceiling joists. Consider floating ceiling joists. Purchase hat channel instead. Install the hat channel perpendicular to the joists. Screw in resilient sound clips. Install drywall over the channel.

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. The current drywall is in direct contact with the ceiling joists. This allows sound from the floor above to pass directly through the joists with little resistance. Once the old drywall is removed, you can install a new ceiling with an air gap between it and the floor above. Decoupling alone is very effective at reducing the sound of conversation and high-pitched noises, but it can make low frequencies (such as stomping feet) sound louder! To get the best of both worlds, apply damping compound to a new sheet of thick drywall and screw it onto the subfloor from below.   See above for detailed instructions. Take care not to use screws that break through the floor above. Alternatively, complete the rest of this method first, then reinforce the new ceiling with a second layer. Reinforce both ends if extreme soundproofing is required. Standard R19 fiberglass insulation is just as good as the more expensive "acoustic" insulation. Fill the gaps between the joists, but avoid over-compression, which can carry vibrations through the floor.  Cellulose, mineral fiber, cotton, or polyester are effective alternatives. Do not use foam insulation.  If you choose the floating ceiling joist approach (see below), install the joists before you insulate. This is the most effective decoupling method, but may not be feasible if the ceiling space is taken up by ductwork. To do this, install a new joist between each pair of ceiling joists. The new joists should extend 1–2 inches (2.5–5cm) further down than the original joists.  Ideally, the floating joist can rest on the inside layer of a decoupled wall. This creates another air gap between the joists and the outside layer of the wall. If you choose this approach, you do not need to follow the rest of the instructions. Just install more drywall over the joists, then fill in the perimeter with acoustic caulk. Installing hat channel (furring channel) and sound clips is less effective than floating joists, but uses less vertical space. For best soundproofing, choose furring channel...


Remove the feet and wings as before. Pull large flight feathers and tail feathers in the direction of growth. Remove the smaller torso feathers against the grain. Heat water and paraffin wax in which to dip the birds and remove the down. Dunk the duck. Peel the wax away from the skin.

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Use your clippers and your knife to remove the feet and the wings to give yourself a smaller area with which to pluck. If you need to save the wings or other parts of the duck for ID, later, do so. Alternatively, if you're plucking, some hunters like to leave the feet on to hold onto during the plucking process. It's up to you. You can always remove them later, if you wish. There's not much of a secret to removing the outer layer of large feathers: just start plucking. They'll be tenacious, so you might just need to pull them one at a time, or a few at a time, pulling them straight out from the carcass. Smaller feathers are more quickly plucked several at a time, working from the bottom of the bird up toward the neck, against the grain. If you've got the right leverage and the right amount of elbow grease, you can get these feathers off a lot more quickly with some practice. Use your thumb and forefinger to start ripping them back and off. You won't be able to remove all the feathers this way. You'll be left with a fine layer of super-soft downy feathers that are next-to impossible to remove by hand. Collect all the rest of the feathers in a bag for easy removal. They're also excellent for stuffing and other projects. In a large pot, boil enough water in which to submerge the duck, and melt in a block of paraffin wax, available at most grocery stores and other outlets.  It should float in a layer right on top of the hot water. When you're ready, remove the water from the heat. Use one package or block of paraffin wax per duck. It's likely you won't need to really boil the water to melt the wax, so keep a close eye on it. When the wax is melted, the water is fine and you're ready to dunk the birds. Quickly and gently dunk the bird through the layer of wax floating on top of the water, then immediately submerge the duck into a bucket of cold water to set the wax firmly. You don't need to soak the bird for longer than a couple of seconds, and in fact it's better to do it quickly. Before you've removed the...


Remove the feet with clippers. Remove one or both wings, if you don't need to keep them on. Feel for the breast-bone with your finger. Use your hands and tear in opposite directions, firmly and smoothly. Peel the skin back.

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Start by clipping off both feet as close as possible to the body as possible, using wire cutters or a sharp knife. It usually works best to use something with a scissor-action, so you can lop them off quickly and cleanly. Some people choose to toss the feet, but you can hang on to them and use them for making stocks and broths if you want to be especially resourceful. With your clippers, clip the joint where the wing meets the body, as close as possible. Then, use a sharp knife to run along and separate the rest of the skin connecting the wing to the body. Then, do the same thing to the other wing.  Alternatively, you can also clip the wings at the middle joint, just after the long feathers end, if you want to retain the top-most connective tissue where the wing meets the body. There's not much meat there, but there is some. If you do this, clip the joint, then run your knife back down along the wing toward the bird's "armpit." If you want to skin your bird in the field, but need to leave the wings on for ID purposes, read the section called "Breasting Out Ducks Quickly." You can skin the duck, but leave the wings on very easily. On a sturdy, flat surface, lay the duck down on its back and feel for the breastbone. The easiest way to start peeling the skin away is to start with your fingers, just where the bone pokes up. You don't have to pluck the feathers before you do this, but some hunters prefer removing some of the chest feathers to get out of the way before you start skinning. That's fine, but you'll only need to remove a few before you can get a finger on the skin, making it easier to do all at once. It's likely you'll have to dig in there, and you'll probably pull some feathers free before you get the hang of it. That's fine, just try to get a finger on the skin itself and start to open it up. Pull the skin in opposite directions, like you were removing it's jacket. Alternatively, some like to hold the duck so the back is facing your chest, and use the tips of the fingers to tear into the skin and...


Remove the filter. Determine whether your filter needs cleaning. Shake off loose dust and dirt. Spray the filter with cleaning solution. Allow the solution to soak on the filter for 10 minutes.

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Pop the hood on your vehicle to access the engine compartment. Find your air filter—these are almost always housed inside a large plastic box that makes them easily identifiable. If there are ring clamps or latches holding the filter in place, disengage them and lift the filter straight out.  Depending on the make and model of your vehicle, the air filter may be flat, circular or conical in shape. The methods used to clean the filter will be the same regardless of its design.  You may also want to stick a towel or some other object into the air intake port to keep debris from entering the engine after the filter has been removed. K&N advises that their air filters only require service if any of the filter’s folds are covered so thickly with dust or dirt that they’re no longer visible. If you can still plainly see the pleats on your filter, it may not need to be cleaned, even if it appears dirty. If your filter looks clogged or fuzzy, or if it's lost all traces of its reddish oil coat, it’s probably due for a cleaning. Give the filter a gentle shake to dislodge whatever debris is resting on the surface. Don eye protection and a breathing mask if you have them to avoid inhaling dust particles. Be careful not to shake the filter too hard or handle the pleats directly, as this could potentially damage them.  You can also use a soft-bristled brush to remove dust without harming the filter. To avoid making a mess, it’s recommended that you remove your air filter outside. Grab the bottle of aerosol cleaner that came included with your filter. Spray the filter liberally on both sides. It’s important that you clean both the inner and outer surfaces of the filter, not just the dirty exterior pleats. Make sure each individual pleat has been thoroughly misted with cleaner.  Use as much solution as you need to completely coat both sides of the filter. K&N's proprietary air filter cleaning solution can be purchased online or wherever auto accessories are sold. As the cleaner sits on the filter, it will begin to cut through...


Remove the flower portion from the fake roses. Arrange these stems in either a vase or inside a decorative box. Slide the cooled bacon rosebuds onto the waiting stems. Serve.

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Pull back on the green backing from each rose, then separate it into individual parts. Return the green piece that surrounded the fake flower to the stem by either pushing it back downward. Or, if it came loose and cannot be pushed back on, use green gardener’s tape to hold it in place. Then, tape a wooden chopstick to each stem, so that the stem will be strong enough to hold the bacon.     If using a box, line it with parchment paper first, to absorb any remaining grease. Continue to make enough to create your arrangement. Give to someone special or place on the table for everyone to share. Enjoy your bacon roses!


Remove the glass panel from a picture frame. Clean the glass panel with rubbing alcohol. Set the glass panel down in a well-ventilated area. Shake up your can of mirror-effect spray paint. Apply 5 light coats of paint, allowing each one to dry. Allow the paint to dry completely. Insert the glass into the frame, with the painted side facing you. Close the frame, then flip it over.

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Choose a picture frame with a design that you like. Flip the frame over and remove the back panel. Discard any paper inserts, then remove the glass panel. Save the cardboard backing from the frame, however; you will need it to put everything back together. Dampen a soft cloth or paper towel with rubbing alcohol, then wipe it over both sides of the glass. This is important because it will remove any oils that may prevent the paint from sticking. Handle the glass panel by the edges from now on to avoid getting fingerprints on it. It would be best if you worked outdoors, but a large room with open windows would also work. Place something under the glass to protect your work surface, such as newspaper or a cheap, plastic tablecloth. Consider propping the glass up on some cans that are all the same height. This will prevent the paint from leaking under the glass. Buy a can of mirror-effect spray paint. This can be found at most home improvement stores. The can should say "mirror-effect," "mirror-finish," or "transform(s) into a mirror" on it. Shake the can for the time recommended on the label, typically 20 to 30 seconds. Don't use regular silver spray paint, even if the cap looks shiny. It is not the same thing and it will not work. Hold the can 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) away from the glass. Apply a light coat of spray paint, using a side-to-side sweeping motion. Wait about 1 minute for it to dry, then apply a second coat. Keep repeating this step until the glass turns opaque. You'll need about 5 coats total.  Hold your hand under the glass to check its transparency. If you can see your hand, it is not opaque enough. It is better to apply many thin coats of paint rather than 1 or 2 thick coats. It will take longer, but the finish will be nicer. You are only applying paint to one side of the glass panel, not both. How long this takes depends on the area that you live in; the cooler it is, the longer it will take to dry. In general, however, expect to wait about 10 minutes. Place the frame face-down on the...


Remove the glow plugs from your engine. Set your multimeter to ohms. Find resistance value of your multimeter. Place the negative lead of the multimeter onto the nut of the glow plug. Place the positive lead onto the tip of the glow plug. Find the results on the multimeter. Replace the glow plugs.

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Check your owner’s manual to locate the glow plugs and find the best way to remove them. This will vary based on the model and make of your vehicle. Use the lowest ohms setting. If the measurement of the glow plug is too high for the setting of the multimeter, then the plug is bad. Cross the two leads of the multimeter over each other and record the result. Subtract this amount from the glow plug reading. Make sure you do no not place the negative lead higher than the nut. The tip is exposed when you pull the glow plug cap off. Check your shop manual for your vehicle's test specs.  Subtract the resistance value of your multimeter from the resistance value of your glow plug. For example, if your plug's resistance measured .9 ohms and your meter's resistance measured .2 ohms, the real reading for the plug is .7 ohms. All the glow plugs from your engine should have similar readings. One glow plug with a higher resistance can affect your engine's performance--even if the plug is still good. If one or more of the glow plugs is faulty, replace all of them. Never replace a single plug.


Remove the gravy from the stove and serve it with the puddings.

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After the gravy has reached your desired consistency, take the pan off the stove. Drizzle the gravy over your Yorkshire puddings while it’s still warm. To store leftover gravy, pour it into an airtight container. Then, place it in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 6 months.


Remove the grille over the legs. Adjust the screws. Measure the refrigerator’s tilt with a level. Measure the refrigerator’s slope. Replace the grille.

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Find the grille at the bottom of the refrigerator. Look for screws that need to be undone. Unscrew it or pull the grille off with your hands. Consult your owner’s manual for advice when you’re unsure on how to remove the grille. Each roller will have a screw on it. You will need pliers or a wrench for a ⅜ inch (9.5 mm) screw. Turn the screw clockwise to raise the legs. Turn the screw counterclockwise to lower them. Place the level on the very top of the refrigerator behind the door. When the rollers are adjusted properly, the level will be flat from left to right. Adjust the legs so the refrigerator rests evenly. Next, place the level against the bottom of the refrigerator. The refrigerator should slope to the back. Adjust the rollers so the front end is .25 inches (6.35 mm) higher than the back end. Adjust the rollers as necessary. Push the grille back onto the bottom of the refrigerator. Replace any clips or screws.


Remove the grille over the legs. Examine the legs. Rotate the legs. Measure the refrigerator’s tilt with a level. Measure the refrigerator’s slope. Replace the grille.

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At the very bottom of the refrigerator, you may see a covering over the legs. Many times, this grille can be removed by pulling with your hands. Some grilles will be attached by clips or screws you’ll have to undo first. Consult your owner’s manual for advice when you’re unsure of how to remove the grille. Check the legs first for screws or bolts that you’ll need to adjust. While some legs can be rotated freely, some require a wrench or a screwdriver. Refrigerators made by GE, for example, require a flat blade screwdriver. Look along the top and bottoms of the legs. You’ll either see a slot near the top or a screw or bolt near the bottom. Use a flat-head screwdriver on the slots and an adjustable wrench or pliers on the bolt. Turn clockwise to raise the refrigerator. Turn counterclockwise to lower the refrigerator. Try to get the refrigerator level from left to right.  Legs without fasteners, such as those on Whirlpool refrigerators, can be turned to the right to lower the refrigerator and to the left to raise it. If you cannot reach the legs to adjust them, you’ll need someone to lean the refrigerator to the back. Be very careful and don’t tilt it back too far. Place the level on the top of the refrigerator behind the door. The level will be flat if the refrigerator is even from left to right. Adjust the legs to get the refrigerator even from left to right. Place the level against the bottom of the refrigerator. It should slope slightly to the back. Make sure the front is .25 inches (6.35 mm) higher than the back. Make adjustments to the front legs as necessary. Push the grille back onto the bottom of the refrigerator. Replace any clips or screws.


Remove the ground. Disconnect the good battery. Remove the last red clip from the bad battery. Let the car run to charge the battery. Follow up with a mechanic to make sure that there are no underlying problems.

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Once your car is solidly running it is time to remove the jumper cables.  Start by removing the black clip attached to the metal ground. You should first remove the black clip from the good battery.  Next you will remove the red clip from the same battery. Now the cables should be completely disconnected and you can put them away.  You can also close the hoods of both cars. As your motor runs it turns your alternator.  This in turn charges your battery.  You should allow your battery to charge up for a few minutes before hitting the road. Sometimes the cause of a dead battery is as simple as cold weather or forgetting to turn your lights off.  Other times there can be a more serious issue such as a bad alternator.  If you suspect this is the case you should follow up with a mechanic.


Remove the head. Remove the tail. Make an incision into the side of the bird, under the rib. Trim away the meat around the shot. Store the meat properly.

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As you peel the skin up toward the neck, you'll have to remove the head before the skin will come off entirely without tearing. Peel the skin back to expose the point at which the neck meets the body, and use your clippers to cut as close as possible to the body and remove the head. After you remove the skin from around the torso of the duck, the tail feathers will likely be stuck on, attached to a small ring of fat around the base of the carcass. Use your clippers to cut the feathers off, cutting right through and removing that ring of fat from the rest of the bird. There's no meat south of the rib-line of the duck, so the best way to remove the entrails is usually to cut around the base of the breast, underneath the rib, to separate the cavity with the entrails from the good meat. Run your knife up along the bottom of the breast plate, making smooth and shallow cuts. When you get to the other side, grasp the lower portion of the bird and pull firmly to remove the entrails. The intestines should come out in one clean go.  You can remove the heart and liver separately, which might stick up in the body cavity, and remove the gizzard from above. You can eat the liver if you remove the bile duct, which is greenish in color, kind of like an gel-cap pill. The heart is also edible, but somewhat small. Alternatively, some hunters prefer to remove the gizzard from the top of the duck and remove the rest of the entrails from that cavity. It's a smaller space to work with, however, and farther away from the intestines, which need to be removed with care to avoid spoilage. Examine the meat on the bird. There should be a scorched-looking section, where the pellets entered the carcass. This will need to be removed, because it will taste "off." Remove any shot from the meat very carefully, and discard the scorched meat. To finish off the dressing process, clean the meat and remove any remaining feathers and dirt stuck on. You can run the meet under some cool water, or simply clean it off with a clean towel. The loose...


Remove the hood. Drain all fluids from the engine. Disconnect the intake, exhaust and coolant lines. Disconnect the wiring. Unbolt the engine from the transmission. Disconnect the motor mount bolts. Either raise or lower the engine from the engine bay.

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While most projects done “under the hood” can be done beneath a hood that's still in place, removing the engine from your vehicle is likely not one of them.  The hood may interfere with your ability to access connections or bolts and will cause problems if you lift the engine out of the engine bay using a cherry picker or engine hoist.  The hood will be held in place by hinges on either side, each with two or three bolts.  You and a friend will need to support the weight of the hood as you each remove the bolts connecting the hood to the hinges.  Once the bolts have been removed, lift the hood off of the vehicle.  Removing the hood is a two-person job, as one person will have to lift each end. Screw the bolts back into the hood to avoid losing them once they are removed. Place the hood someplace safe, with cloth pads at each point it may come into the contact with the ground to avoid damaging the paint. An engine uses a number of different fluids in regular use and all of it will need to be drained prior to removing the engine.  Start with the engine oil, which can be drained through the oil drain plug on the oil pan.  The coolant can be drained from the radiator petcock, though it's important to note that there will still be coolant throughout the system as you disconnect coolant lines.  The washer fluid reservoir is likely attached to the body of the vehicle, rather than the engine, and can be left alone.  The fluids drained from your vehicle cannot be re-used in the new engine. Drain engine oil and coolant into separate containers for later recycling. You can bring oil and coolant to many auto parts stores to be recycled for free. The intake draws air into your engine and looks like a pipe or tube traveling from the air filter to the throttle body.  Disconnect the pipe from the throttle body, then remove all the fasteners holding the intake in place and remove it from the engine bay.  You may or may not need to remove the radiator in order to remove the old engine, but you will certainly need to disconnect...


Remove the hot dogs and serve.

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After the hot dogs are finished boiling, remove them from water and dry them off carefully with a paper towel before placing them in a bun. Serve the hot dogs with any combination of mustard, ketchup, relish, onion, tomato, cheese, or sauerkraut.


Remove the insides. Rinse the duck. Dry the duck.

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Get rid of the innards and giblets located inside the duck’s body cavity. The organs and neck can be discarded or saved for future cooking purposes. Clean the duck with water.Rinse the entirety of the duck’s body cavity. Pat the duck dry with paper towels. If you dry the duck properly, it will not slip out of your hands.


Remove the items. Vacuum out the closet or wardrobe. Wash walls and shelves. Wash your clothes and other fabric items. Freeze items that you can’t wash. Avoid putting worn clothes into your closet. Store clothing in airtight containers.

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Take everything out of your closet, including non-clothing items like shoes and storage items. You will need to clean everything, so if you have things like shoe storage racks or organizational items, remove those as well to enable you to thoroughly scrub them. Use an attachment or a handheld vacuum to clean the floor, walls, shelves, and ceiling of your closet. As soon as you finish vacuuming, empty the contents into a sealed bag. Remove it from the house immediately. Make sure that you get the corners and ceiling of your closets. Pour soap or detergent into a bowl or bucket, then fill it with water. Stir the water to mix in the soap. Dip a clean cloth into the soapy water and use it to wipe down the walls and shelves. Continue to dip the rag into the water as you clean the entire closet. Set your washer on the hottest cycle because the larvae can’t withstand the heat. The water should reach about 120 degrees Fahrenheit (48 degrees Celsius) in order to be fully effective. Allow the clothes to cycle for 20 to 30 minutes to ensure that all the moth worms and eggs have been killed. Dry cleaning will also kill the larvae. Larvae can’t survive freezing temperatures, so the freezer makes a great pesticide. Place your items in a protective covering, such as a plastic bag. Put them in the freezer, allowing at least 48 hours for the cold to kill any larvae on the item. If you plan to wear clothing more than once, find another location to store it until you are ready for your second or third wear. Moths prefer clothes that have sweat or food on them, so they act as a moth magnet. Keep the moths from laying new eggs by keeping clothes that you don’t wear frequently in airtight containers.  Easy to use options include sealed storage boxes, vacuum-sealed bags, and plastic storage bags. For added protection, apply packing tape over the seals.


Remove the jars from the canner. Allow the full jars to cool for 24 hours in a place free from drafts. Check to make sure that the jars have sealed after several hours have passed. Wash the jars in room-temperature, soapy water to remove any residue on the outsides. Label your canned goods with the year, at least.

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Jar tongs are a secure and safe way to do this, or you may be able to raise the entire basket in a water-bath canner.  Place the jars on a clean towel to cool. You may hear the metal lids make a loud plinking sound.  That is simply the contents cooling and creating a partial vacuum in the jar.  Don't touch the lids yet.  Let them seal on their own. The vacuum created when the contents cooled should have pulled the "dome" lid down very tightly. If you can press the center of the lid down, it did not seal.  It should not spring back.  If any jars have not sealed, you can place a fresh lid on them and process them again or refrigerate those jars and use the contents soon. You can remove the rings at this point, since the seals should be holding themselves on securely. Allow the rings and jars to dry thoroughly before replacing the rings, to prevent rust. Also consider writing the contents, since apple and peach can be hard to tell apart a month later.  Write your name, too, if you are giving the jars as gifts.  You can use a sticker or a permanent marker. Mark your jars on the seals rather than the glass if you want to reuse the jars easily. Store sealed jars on a shelf, avoiding excessive exposure to heat or light.  Refrigerate after opening.


Remove the knockout slug on the side of the panel with a hammer. Place the connector into the slot and secure it in place. Run the feeder cable from the main panel to the subpanel. Connect the neutral and ground wires to their bus bars. Insert the red and black wires into the feeder breaker. Snap the feeder breaker into an empty slot in the main panel. Attach the red and black wires to the terminals in the subpanel. Turn on the breaker and close the panels.

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Look for a perforated circle on the side, top, or bottom of the panel. You can use a hammer and screwdriver to knock out the slug so you can insert wiring into the subpanel. Use a pair of pliers to remove the knockout slug if you’re having trouble taking it out. With the knockout slug removed, insert the metal connector into the hole so you can insert your 4-wire feeder cable through it. Use a drill or screwdriver to tighten the screws on top of the connector to keep it held in place.  The screws do not need to be installed in a wall stud. Screw on the retaining nut to the bottom of the connector inside of the subpanel. The 4-wire feeder cable should be included with your subpanel and is a large black cable with 4 wires inside of it. With the main panel door open, insert the cable and slide it through the knockout opening. Then feed it into through the knockout opening on the subpanel. Unwrap the insulation surrounding it with your fingers to expose the 4 wires inside.  You may need to remove a knockout slug to insert the wires into the main panel. There should be a black wire, red wire, white wire, and bare metal wire. If you’re installing a subpanel in a separate room from the main panel, use a longer feeder cable to reach it. Take the white neutral wire, insert it beneath the screw at the top of the neutral bus bar in the main panel, and tighten the screw to secure it. Connect the other end of the wire in the subpanel in the same fashion. Then, connect the ground wire to the ground bus bar, tighten the screw to secure it, and connect the other end of the wire to the neutral bus bar in the subpanel.  A bus bar is a metal strip or bar used to connect wires to power the panels. Check the inside of the door of the main and subpanel for a diagram showing the location of the bus bars and neutral bars. If the end of the wire is covered by sheathing, use a wire stripper or a utility knife to remove about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the sheathing to fit the exposed wire into the bus bar. Use a longer cable to reach a...


Remove the laces from the shoes. Condition your shoes at least every 25 wears. Apply a polish to your shoes once a month for protection. Try a spit shine for shiny shoes.

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Laces can prevent the polish or conditioner from spreading evenly across the shoe. If your shoes have laces, gently pull them out from the eyelets one by one until you've separated them from the shoes. Conditioning helps moisturize the leather. As it dries out, it can crack, leading to damaged shoes. Use a clean cloth to rub the conditioner in using small circular movements. Remove any excess conditioner once you've conditioned the whole shoe. If you live in a place with harsh weather, such as a place with icy winters and salty sidewalks or a very dry climate, you should condition your shoes after you wear them 5 to 10 times. In less harsh climates, do it every 15 to 25 wears. Using light pressure, use circles to add small amounts of polish to the shoe. A soft cloth or horsehair brush is good for this task. Keep applying the polish until you've covered the shoe. Wipe any excess off.  A wax-based polish will provide more protection for your shoes. Make sure you match the color of the polish to the color of your shoes. Once you  think you have a good color, apply a little polish in an inconspicuous place to see if it matches. For a spit shine, tightly stretch a cloth over your fingers. Add a little bit of water. Rub it over one area on your shoe, which will begin to harden the wax already on it. Keep rubbing until the area shines, and continue with the rest of the shoe. Typically, a polishing last about a week.


Remove the laces from your shoes. Wipe the toothpaste away with a towel.

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Soak your laces in a bowl with warm water and laundry detergent or throw the laces in the washing machine. Removing them while you clean the rest of the shoe will make cleaning them easier. Make sure to remove all the toothpaste that was left over from cleaning. If you have trouble removing the toothpaste, dampen the rag with a little bit of warm water and rub the toothpaste off of the shoe.


Remove the leaves and discard the stems. Chop herbs finely. Fill a clean ice tray with portions of herbs. Cover with a small amount of water. Freeze until solid. Remove and store in Ziplock freezer bags.

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Wash the leaves of the herbs as soon as you're ready to freeze them. Pull the leaves off the stems individually and start placing them in a pile for chopping up and freezing.  This method doesn't require you to dry the herbs at all. If they're a little damp, that'll be to your advantage. This method generally works best with leafy herbs like parsley, basil, mint, and cilantro. On a cutting board, chop up your herbs finely, to the consistency you would if you were going to cook with them. Depending on what herbs you're freezing, you can chop them according to your taste, or what you plan on using them for in the future.  Remove leafy herbs from their stems and roll them on the board in loose little "cigar" shapes, then chop them into thin strips, then chop them across the mince. Roughly chop hearty herbs like sage and dill before freezing them. Pull heartier small-leaf herbs like thyme or tarragon from their stems and freeze them directly without chopping. Rinse out an empty ice tray and wipe it dry, then start piling your fresh chopped herbs into the individual ice wells of the tray. Fill them as full as possible, so it'll be easy to remove them when the herbs are frozen. To make certain the herbs stick together, cover them with just a small amount of clean filtered water. You don't need to soak them, just pour a little on to get them to form solid cubes.  For an added treat, consider using a liquid other than water. You can make lemonade-basil cubes, or rosemary-simple-syrup cubes if you want. Get creative. Sometimes, you won't need to do this at all, and herbs will freeze normally without any added water. It's good to use a little for a precaution, though. The cubes tend to look a little better in the end. Place the tray in the freezer and allow the herbs to freeze in their small blocks until solid. This will usually take several hours, so it's best to leave them overnight. If you notice a bit of frost on the top of the herbs, they're probably solid. Since you probably need your ice trays to make actual...


Remove the leaves from the stems after harvesting. Rinse the leaves and pat them dry. Prepare your oven or food dehydrator. Spread the leaves on trays in a thin layer. Dry the leaves to the correct moisture content. Store the dried leaves.

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If you want to dry the leaves more quickly, you can go ahead and remove the leaves from the stems. Discard the stems along with any leaves that are bruised or broken. Rinse them gently in water, then set them on paper towels and gently pat them dry. Basil leaves dry beautifully in either an oven set to very low heat or a food dehydrator.  If you're using the oven, set it to the lowest temperature - 200 °F (93 °C) or lower.  If you're using a food dehydrator, ready it for operation according to the manufacturer's instructions. Either spread them on a baking tray or the food dehydrator tray. Make sure none of the leaves overlap. They should be arranged in one thin, even layer. The leaves should be dried over the course of 24-48 hours until they are no longer moist; they should crumble easily when pinched between your fingers.  If you're using the oven, place the tray of leaves inside the preheated oven and let them bake for 20 minutes. Turn off the oven and leave the leaves inside overnight. In the morning, they should be sufficiently dry.  If you're using the food dehydrator, place the tray of leaves inside and operate the food dehydrator for 24-48 hours. You can store them whole in plastic food storage bags or bins, or crush them and store them in spice bottles.


Remove the lid and bring the pitcher to the sink. Fill the reservoir with cold water. Put the lid back on and return the pitcher to the refrigerator. Add tap water to the reservoir every time you use it to keep it full.

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When you’ve drank all of the filtered water in your pitcher, take it out of the refrigerator. Take the lid off and place it on the counter. Pick up the pitcher by the handle and hold it in the sink underneath the faucet. Fill the reservoir all of the way up to the top. Wait as the water slowly filters through into the bottom of the pitcher. Once the reservoir is about half emptied, refill it to the top. This should allow the pitcher to fill completely with filtered water. Once the bottom of the pitcher is full of water, put the lid back on. Then, put the pitcher back in the refrigerator so that it stays cool. Drink all of the filtered water in your pitcher within 1-2 days to ensure that you’re consuming the freshest water possible. Instead of waiting until your pitcher is empty to refill it, refill it a little bit each time you use it. Every time you take out your pitcher to pour yourself a glass of filtered water, first fill the glass with tap water and pour it into the reservoir. This way, your Brita pitcher will always stay full. Be careful when you pour yourself the glass of filtered water, as the water in the reservoir may spill out if the lid doesn’t stay securely on.


Remove the lid of your push pop container. Stuff your push pop with confetti. Cover the opening of the push pop with tissue paper. Decorate your popper. Fire your confetti hand cannon. Finished.

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These containers can be found at most craft stores, but can also be purchased online. After you remove the lid from your push pop container, slide the bottom all the way down so the body of the container is hollow. After you have removed the lid, this can be thrown away. This kind of confetti popper can easily be reused, but it won't need a top. You can use traditional confetti, but this popper works well with tinsel, too. You may want to use your scissors to trim tinsel into smaller pieces. This way, it'll float in the air more easily. Add your confetti or tinsel (or both) to the hollow part of the push pop container until it is completely full. Cut a small square of tissue paper that is large enough to cover the opening of the push pop container. Use tape to fasten the tissue paper firmly over the open end. This can be done easily by wrapping the outside of the popper with decorative paper and taping or gluing this in place. However, you could also paint the outside of the popper, draw designs on it, or personalize it however you wish. When you're ready to launch your confetti mixture into the air, push the stick end of the push pop container upward in a quick, firm motion. This should cause the tissue paper to pop, and the confetti to explode outwards.


Remove the lid. Rinse out the inside of the pot. Add a few drops of soap. Scrub the pot with a bottle brush. Rinse the pot again using boiled or distilled water. Allow the pot to air dry.

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Take the lid off of the pot and rinse the underside with hot water. Set the lid aside on a clean towel. You'll be cleaning this along with the rest of the pot. Don't neglect the clean the lid of the pot. Though it doesn't come into direct contact with your nose, it's possible for bacteria to infiltrate the pot as used solution is pulled back into it. Run a stream of hot water directly into the pot. Swirl the water around to make sure you hit the entirety of the interior. When you empty the water, pour it out through the spout. This will help flush out bacteria and traces of used irrigation solution. A preliminary rinse will wash away most unwanted contaminants and should be performed immediately following ordinary usage. It's recommended that you use a mild cleanser, like liquid dish detergent or antibacterial all-purpose soap. Squeeze the soap into the bottom of the pot, then fill it up about three quarters of the way full with hot water. For best results, leave the soap solution to soak for a few minutes before scrubbing. Never use soaps containing harsh chemicals or astringent agents. Besides being hazardous to put in your body, these compounds are capable of causing structural damage to the device itself. Take a clean (or recently sterilized) bottle brush and insert it through the opening in the top of the pot to clean the interior. Gently scour the pot inside and out, covering as much surface area as you can. Scrubbing the pot will loosen unseen bacteria and possible buildup from the irrigation solution, while the soapy water cleans and disinfects.  Rotate the neti pot as you scrub to make hard-to-reach spots more accessible. Don't forget to go over the inside of the lid with the brush while you're at it. Flush out the spout and the area around the lid thoroughly. Refill and empty the pot repeatedly until the water is completely clear. There should be no soap solution remaining when you're finished.  Tap water may contain chemicals and other contaminants that can be potentially harmful if introduced to...


Remove the lock from the car. Remove the inner lock tumbler. Replace the pins. Insert the tumbler into the lock and test it. Replace the lock in the car.

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The exact method depends on the vehicle and whether the lock is a door, trunk, or ignition lock. You may need special equipment to remove the lock. Take off the end cam and inner spring, then insert a key into the lock tumbler to push the pins away from the cylinder walls. You should then be able to push the tumbler out from the back. The key does not have to be the one that is normally used with the lock. Replacement tumbler pins come in sets. Each pin has a different length and may be labeled with a number. Insert the new pins in place of the old pins, making sure the new pins extend no further than the top of the tumbler. If you're rekeying more than one car lock, be sure to arrange the new pins in the same order in each lock so you can use the same key with all of them. Although replacements, the new pins may be too worn to work. The lock should turn smoothly with the key that will be used to lock and unlock it. You may want to test the key one more time to make sure it works.


Remove the mounting nut that holds the handle in place.

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Locate the plastic or metal mounting nut that's holding your handle in place on the inside the top of the tank. Try twisting the nut clockwise by hand to see if you can loosen it. If not, grip the nut with a pair of locking pliers to get better leverage on it. Unscrew the nut and slide it down the metal or plastic lever inside your tank to remove it. Don't turn the mounting nut counterclockwise since you could strip it and make it more difficult to remove. If the nut inside your toilet is stripped, use a hacksaw to cut through it. Many mounting nuts have a black rubber O-ring attached to them, which prevents leaks from coming through the handle. If the O-ring isn't attached to the mounting nut, make sure you remove it as well.


Remove the noodles from the package. Mix in the flavor packet.

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Some Ramen enthusiasts like to break up the noodles while the bag is still sealed, making shorter soup-like noodles that are easier to eat with a spoon, while others choose to leave the noodles in a block to slurp traditional-style. It's up to you how you want to eat them. Stir noodles with a spoon or fork until flavoring dissolves, then pour your cooked Ramen into another bowl, if you want, and commence the deliciousness. Alternatively, some Ramen eaters like to add the flavoring before the noodles cook. This is usually easier if you're cooking them over the stove, though it's still possible in the microwave. If you like the flavor to cook with the noodles some (it's a good way to get the noodles more tasty), put the noodles and the flavoring packet in the bowl first, then add the water on top to try to dissolve it some.


Remove the old bluing, if desired. Polish the gun metal. Clean the gun metal. Heat the metal gently. Apply the bluing solution. Apply the solution several more times until you have the level of bluing you want. Season the finish with gun oil once you have the level of bluing you want.

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Depending on how worn the original bluing is, you may wish to remove it entirely before re-bluing the gun. You can use one of the following chemicals to do so:  A phosphoric acid-based automotive rust remover, such as Naval Jelly. White vinegar, which contains acetic acid. Polishing removes surface rust and any scratches or pitting that the gun may have suffered over the years. You can use either 000 steel wool or 600 to 1200-grit sandpaper for this purpose. How you choose to clean the metal depends on whether you plan to blue the entire gun or touch up existing bluing.  If you plan to blue the entire gun, you may want to immerse the metal in a cleaning solution. Cleaning solutions you can use for this purpose include sodium triphosphate (a commercial detergent), denatured alcohol, or naphtha. (If you choose to use naphtha, you should wash it off with a mild dishwashing detergent and then rinse with hot water.)  If you plan to immerse the gun parts to clean them, you can use a wire basket to hold the small parts and thread thin wire through the barrel to lower it into the cleaning solution and raise it again. If you plan to just touch up existing bluing, you can apply a cleaning oil to the places where you want to remove the old bluing, then apply acetone on cotton balls to remove the cleaning oil. (One such cleaning oil, a mixture of vegetable and mineral oils, alcohol, benzyl acetate, and alkaline salts, is sold commercially under the name Ballistol.) As you clean off the old bluing, you may find some scarring that will require sanding or polishing out. Although this process is called cold bluing, gently heating the gun metal before applying the bluing can help it absorb the bluing better and create a better finish. Heat the metal by leaving it out in the sun for several hours, with a heat gun or blow dryer, or in a conventional oven set to its lowest setting. Slowly apply the solution to the area to be blued as evenly as possible, using a clean applicator. Apply the solution in a single pass to cover small...


Remove the old door and the surrounding trim, molding, and door jamb. Determine if the doorway is level. Measure the doorway. Purchase the necessary materials and tools.

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You must remove everything covering the "rough frame" of the doorway.  The majority of doors for sale on the market today come pre-hung--that is, they are already mounted on a door jamb. When installed correctly, they provide the tightest possible seal to keep out the elements. The door jamb is usually held in place with nails, screws, and caulk. The screws shouldn't be difficult to remove, though the caulk can sometimes be a challenge to strip out. Certain silicone-based caulks or sealants can be loosed with specialized chemical applications available at many hardware stores. Exterior molding may come off only with great difficulty; there is usually no special trick to it, just the application of leverage via a pry bar. Pry off interior trim carefully, so as not to damage the surrounding wall paint or paper. Along with a pry bar, it may be helpful to use a putty knife to get between the trim and wall with minimal damage. Use a level to measure the sill (bottom), sides, and top of the frame. If it is not as it should be, you may need to add wood around the frame to make it level. The most common cause of difficulties is the sill. If it is exposed to weather, it is the most likely portion to be warped or rotted. In this case, remove the existing materials and replace them with like-sized boards. You must measure the height, width, and depth in order to know the precise size you must have for the door you will purchase. Do not underestimate the importance of measuring the depth. If the distance between the interior and exterior walls is great but the depth of door jamb on the new door you purchase is small, you will have to add jamb extensions. This shouldn't be too much of a problem unless the distance you have to make up is especially large, but it is something to be aware of. Aside from the pre-hung door, there are a few other things you will need:  Wooden shims to hold the new door in place as you attach it to the frame. Screws or nails to secure the door in place. Make sure the nails or screws you select...


Remove the old fan's cover. Disconnect the fan's wiring. Disconnect the vent pipe. Remove the vent fan housing.

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Take a look at the part of the fan you can see on your bathroom ceiling. Some fan covers with be held in place with screws. If so, take a screwdriver and unscrew them to remove the old fan cover.  If you don't see screws, the cover probably just snaps in place. Look for a tab you can push to pop the cover off. If there's not one, take a flathead screwdriver and gently pry at the edge of the fan cover (where it meets the ceiling) to remove the fan cover. Once the cover's off, you should be able to see the wires leading to the fan's housing. Double-check the power's off by turning on your voltage detector and setting it near the wires. If everything checks out, you can remove the wires from the housing:  If you see wires leading from the ceiling to plastic connectors, then from the connectors to the housing, remove the plastic connector to separate the wires. If you see the wires, but not the plastic connectors, unscrew the junction box cover on the fan's housing, and you should find them inside. Some fans will instead have a standard plug leading to an outlet above the ceiling (attached to a joist, for instance). If you see one of these, just unplug it. The vent pipe will run from a vent in your roof to the fan housing. Detach the flexible vent pipe from the old fan's housing.  The vent pipe may be attached to the housing with HVAC tape. If so, peel this away. The pipe may also be held in place by a clip or screwed assembly. Using a screwdriver if necessary, remove this as well. Once the tape and/or clips are removed, just gently tug at the vent pipe until it is removed from the fan housing. Look for the mounting screws that hold the fan housing in place. For some models, these will be on the bottom, and you'll be able to access them from the ceiling. For others, you'll have to climb into your attic and remove the screws from above.  Lay down a piece of plywood across joists in your attic so you'll have a surface to kneel on. Have someone help you. Let them hold the housing while you remove the screws. Once...


Remove the orchid from the pot. Rinse the roots. Trim dead roots and leaves. Sprinkle cut ends with cinnamon.

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Place your hand over the base of the orchid so your hand covers the top of the pot. Hold the pot with your other hand, and gently turn the orchid upside down into the hand that’s cradling the plant.  If the orchid is clinging to the pot, massage it out by gently wiggling it back and forth. Only cut roots or stems if you cannot gently shake the orchid loose from the pot. If you have to make any cuts, preserve as much of the root or stem as possible. While still holding the plant carefully with one hand, gently pick away as much old medium as possible with your fingers. When you’ve removed the bulk of the medium, rinse the roots under warm water to remove the remainder. Removing all the old medium will ensure that your orchid gets the most nutrients possible when you transplant it, and will make sure any bugs are destroyed. Once your orchid is clean, inspect it carefully for dead leaves, stems, roots, and pseudobulbs. Use your sterilized cutting tool to trim away any roots that are soft and brown, any leaves that are yellowing, and any pseudobulbs that are black and shrivelled.  A pseudobulb is a feature on some orchid types. It’s a bulbous growth near the base of the plant that will have a leaf growing from it.  If you're transplanting multiple orchids at once, sterilize your cutting tool in between plants by wiping it with a disinfectant or heating it with a flame. Cinnamon is a powerful fungicide that can help protect the orchid from infection and rot. Use ground cinnamon and sprinkle the ends of any roots, stems, pseudobulbs, or leaves that you trimmed off. You can also use an orchid-specific fungicide.


Remove the organic materials from your pool surface. Acid wash your pool. Try an enzyme shock treatment and stiff scrub brush to remove stains. Shock your pool with chlorine. Remove localized stains with muriatic acid and a scrub brush. Skip harsh chemicals with an abrasive scrub.

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Typically, greenish-brown colored stains are related to something organic like algae or leaves that were left on the pool floor. These substances need to be removed as part of the treatment. Organic pool stains are not usually hard to remove but with time, your pool will start to have a dull, light-brown color that you won't be able to remove. The brown discoloration happens very slowly and can be hard to notice at first.  If you have trees that hang over your pool, watch for leaves, branches, or fruit that may drop down into the water. You can use a pool skimmer to routinely clean out the debris. Any organic debris that floats to the bottom of your pool needs to be removed with a pool vacuum. You can use a hand-held vacuum or an automatic pool vacuum that uses a sensor. If permanent stains do develop, you can drain your pool water and acid wash your pool if it has a plaster liner. This is not something that you can practice all of the time, as it involves a purposeful stripping of a thin layer of pool plaster. In order to restore the bright white surface, you need to use an acid wash around every five years. This may quickly remove greenish-brown colored stains that build up from organic stains. You may also want to try an enzyme based pool chemical. All natural pool enzymes will eat away at organic material to remove the pool stain with little or no scrubbing and without the use of harsh chemicals that damage pool liners. If your stain is all around the waterline of the pool because of material floating at the top, an enzyme-based cleaner will help to break down organic compounds and oils by speeding up the chemical reactions that assist in making stains virtually disappear on their own. Follow up with a thorough brushing to make sure you've got all the left behind debris and oil. Organic stains are best addressed by heavily chlorinating the water, then giving your pool a little TLC with a good brushing. You can use a long handled stiff brush to get all around your pool. Try pouring a small amount of...


Remove the original cover if you wish to save it. Measure the cushion to determine how much fabric you need. Cut your shape out of study fabric. Place the cushion onto the wrong side of the fabric. Wrap and glue the top and bottom edges of the fabric. Fold the side edges of the fabric into flaps, like wrapping a present. Wrap the flaps over the side edges of the cushion and glue them down. Remove any threads left by the hot glue before using the cushion.

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If you plan on cleaning the cover and using it again, take it off now. If you don't care about the cover, leave it on, but be aware that the hot glue will most likely damage it. Measure the length and width of your cushion. Add the height measurement plus 3 inches (7.6 cm) to each of the 4 edges. You will need these extra inches/centimeters in order to wrap the fabric around the sides and bottom of the cushion. Draw a square or rectangle based on your measurements on the wrong side of your fabric, then cut it out. It would be best to use an outdoor fabric, which is already made to be weather-resistant. If you can't find any that you like, use a tough fabric, such as canvas. Make sure that the wrong side of the fabric is facing up. Place the cushion on top of the fabric with the underside facing up. The cushion needs to be centered, with equal amounts of fabric sticking out from under each edge. Fold the top edge of the fabric over the top edge of the cushion. Hot glue the edge of the fabric to the back of the cushion. Repeat this step for the bottom edge.  Hot glue sets quickly. Squeeze the glue out 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) at a time before pressing the fabric down. You can use fabric glue instead, but be aware that it will be permanent. It will take about 10 minutes to set. Go to the left side of your cushion. Fold the top and bottom edges down so that you get a triangular or trapezoidal flap. Repeat this step for the right side. If you need to, use hot glue to help keep the flap together. Run hot glue along the straight, side edge of the flap (not the angled edges). Pull the flap up and over the side edge of the cushion, then press it down onto the back of the cushion. Repeat this step for the other flap too. Hot glue tends to leave behind little threads or whiskers. This can make your work look messy and unprofessional. Take a quick look at your cushion and pull these threads off before flipping the cushion over and using it.  If you wish to recover the cushion, simply peel the fabric off. The hot...


Remove the orthotic from your shoe. Use hand lotion. Use anti-chaffing gel. Use food-grade silicone spray. Place the orthotic back in your shoe.

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Just as with the powder method, the first step is to gently remove the orthotic insert from your shoe. Now it also a good time to wipe it off and make sure it is clean. Then select the gel, cream, or spray you would like to use. Distribute a few pumps of regular hand lotion into your hand and rub your hands together. Then, apply this lotion to the underside of the orthotic insert, paying specific attention to the area where the hard plastic of your orthotic connects with your shoe.  Avoid petroleum-based products (like Vaseline) as these can damage the material of your orthotic. If possible, opt for simple lotions free of fragrances and dyes. Runners, hikers, and other types of athletes often use anti-chaffing gels to prevent blisters on their feet. You can use this same type of gel to stop your orthotics from squeaking. Simply apply anti-chaffing gel to the underside of the orthotic insert, paying specific attention to the area where the hard plastic of your orthotic connects with your shoe. Anti-chaffing gel is available for purchase from outdoor equipment or sporting goods stores. Food-grade silicone is another great option for lubricating the underside of your orthotic inserts and stopping (or preventing) squeaking noises. Spray food-grade silicone into your shoe and on the underside of your insert. Position the orthotic insert back inside your shoe, and put your shoe back on. Walk around for a few minutes. Hopefully you will not hear any noise.


Remove the oven rack and put it into the freezer. Scrape the brittle plastic. Sweep the plastic remnants into the trash. Clean the oven as usual.

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You can leave it in there for a few hours to ensure that it is adequately cooled. This will make the hardened plastic more brittle and it will be easier to scrape off. Alternatively, you can fill a bag with ice to cool the plastic. This works for the rack, the coils, and the bottom of the oven. Leave the ice on the affected area for 15 to 30 minutes. Once you remove the rack from the freezer or have cooled it thoroughly with the ice, you can begin to scrape the plastic. Using a razor blade or scraping tool, gently scrape at the melted plastic. You may have to apply some pressure to peel it away from the metal. Continue scraping until you have removed the plastic from the rack, coils, and bottom of the oven entirely. The plastic may be sharp, so take care to wear gloves and use caution to avoid cuts. You’ll be left with plastic shavings and pieces on the bottom of the oven. Carefully sweep these out using gloves or a brush. You may also choose to put a bowl or pot under the rack when scraping to catch the plastic as it falls. Before you use the oven again, be sure to wipe it with your usual oven cleaner to ensure the plastic residue is completely removed.


Remove the pairs in your hand. Pair cards by rank and color for a more complex game. Have the dealer hold out their cards face down to the player on their left. Let the player to the left pick a card. Keeping going in a clockwise direction until there is one card left. Develop a strategy. Change it up.

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Each player should assess the cards in their hand and find the pairs. Place each pair face-up in front of you. If you have three of the same card, remove two and keep the other in your hand. If you are using a standard deck, you should match the cards by rank. This means that two sixes would make a pair, regardless of their colors. For example, a six of hearts and a six of diamonds would make a pair, because they are both red. However, a six of hearts could not pair with a six of spades, because the six of spades is black. The dealer should fan out the cards so that the player can see the back of each one. The player to the left of the dealer should pick any card they want from the dealer's hand. Then, without showing anyone the card, they should add it to their own hand. If the card makes a pair with any of their current cards, they should put the pair down in front of them, face-up. The player that just picked a card from the dealer should hold out their cards to the player on their left, and that player should select a card and check for pairs. Go around the circle until the last pair has been made. The player holding the Old Maid card, which has no pair, is the loser--everyone else wins! Remember, don't show your unpaired cards to anyone else! Since the person with the Old Maid loses, you'll want to develop tactics to get the person to your left to take it. You might want to hold the Old Maid card a little higher than the others. Or, you can get fancy and try out some reverse psychology techniques. Try to “hide” your Old Maid card so it seems like you don't want them to pick it. They may think it's a regular card and grab it! If the player to your left always picks a card from the same location in your hand, try putting the Old Maid there. After a couple of rounds, you might want to change the game to keep things lively. You could reverse the rules so that the person left with the Old Maid is the winner. You could also give the Old Maid a different name, like Smelly Sock. Get creative!


Remove the pan from the bread maker. Add the wet ingredients. Add the dry ingredients except for the yeast. Add the yeast. Insert the bread pan into the bread machine. Program the machine. Listen for the beeps. Remove the dough if you selected knead-only. Bake the bread in the bread maker as an alternative. Remove the bread pan from the machine. Give your bread time to cool.

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Insert the paddle, and gather all the ingredients you need for your bread. It is especially important to add ingredients in the proper order if you are using the time delay function. Your bread maker may be different, but most machines say to add the wet ingredients first, and this includes the water and oil. In order to activate the yeast, make sure that any liquids you add to your bread are at least 80 F (27 C). Add the sugar and salt first, followed by the flour. You want to make sure the salt and sugar are separated from the yeast, so you want to create a barrier with the flour. To make an herb bread, you can also add seasonings in with the dry ingredients, such as thyme, oregano, sage, dill, or rosemary. Make a small well in the flour with a spoon or your finger, and pour the yeast into the well. The yeast always comes last because it needs to stay away the from salt, sugar, liquids, and the heat element until a certain time. Separating the yeast from the other ingredients is especially important when you are using the timer. Once all your ingredients are in, replace the bread pan into its position in the bread machine. Close the lid. Press Select. If you only want the machine to make dough, select the dough cycle. Or, you can select the rapid cycle. Otherwise, select your flour type, loaf size, and crust preferences. Press Timer, if necessary, and use the arrows to adjust the time if you want to use the delay function. When you are finished, press Start. The machine will begin spinning the paddles to mix the ingredients and knead the bread. It will likely go through several periods of kneading and rest, and eventually it will stop to allow the bread to rise. Depending on the bread you’re making and the settings you’ve chosen, your machine may beep to indicate it will start the baking process soon, and this is your chance to lift the lid and add extra ingredients like nuts, seeds, fruit, or cheese. When the machine beeps to indicate that the dough is ready, unplug the machine, lift the lid, and remove...


Remove the panels and take out the fiber pads. Drain the water out of the swamp cooler. Brush out the inside of the swamp cooler. Soak the reservoir with vinegar. Scrub the water reservoir.

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Unplug the cooler and turn off the water. Then remove the panels. Once the panels are removed, take out the used fiber pads. Open the drain plug if the swamp cooler has one. Allow the water to drain out. If there is no plug, siphon the water out with a hose.  If you have a portable swamp cooler, make sure you drain the water outside and not inside your house. For window-mounted swamp coolers, you can leave it mounted in the window and let it drain outside the window. You may also choose to unmount it for maintenance and then put it back in the window. Use a stiff brush or broom to sweep the inside of the swamp cooler. After you brush the debris and dirt loose, use a small vacuum that can be used on wet and dry surfaces to vacuum up the dirt. Debris can get inside the water pan. This can cause blockages that stop up the cooler, and may lead to unclean water cycling through it. To clean the water reservoir, pour distilled white vinegar inside it. Let the vinegar sit in the water reservoir for an hour. You can also rinse the water tank with mild soap and warm water. Rinse the water tank well.  When the time is up, drain the vinegar or soapy water into a bucket. Use a scrub brush or cloth to clean the bottom of the water reservoir. Make sure to remove all stains and buildup, scrubbing harder if necessary. Rinse the water reservoir with clean water after you finish scrubbing.


Remove the paper tray to locate the paper rollers on an inkjet printer. Locate the paper rollers in the access panel on a laser printer. Moisten a clean cloth with a little water. Rotate the rollers while wiping them to clean the entire surface. Close the printer and print a test page to see if it works.

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Typically, you can find the paper rollers on an inkjet paper by simply lifting the paper tray away from the printer. The paper rollers are made of rubber and are about .5 inches (1.3 cm) wide. You may need to rotate the printer so that you are able to see the bottom, where the rollers are typically located. The rollers might be near the paper tray, but they aren’t always. If you don’t see them, open the printer’s access panel, which can be found either on the front or back of your printer, depending on the model. You may need to remove the printer cartridge in order to access the rollers. Grab a soft cloth that is clean and lint-free. Dip the cloth in a cup of water just enough so that it is damp, not wet. Distilled or filtered water works best, but any clean water should be fine. Gently spin the rollers with the damp cloth. Do a few rotations to make sure that you have cleaned the entire roller of any dust or debris.  On laser printers, you might not be able to manually rotate the rollers. Don’t worry, you can easily unsnap the clips holding the rollers in place and remove them. Just put them pack and fasten the clips after you’ve wiped the rollers clean. Wipe the rollers dry with the dry part of the towel. Your printer might automatically print a test page after you close the access panel or replace the paper tray. If not, check your manual to see how to print a test page. If you still have printing issues, try cleaning the rollers again.


Remove the patient from the area of exposure. Take off any clothing or jewelry around the burn. Wash the burn thoroughly. Apply a clean, sterile dressing. Administer an over-the-counter pain reliever. Get a tetanus shot.

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If the chemicals still pose a danger to the burn victim, then make sure that you remove him or her from the area of exposure. For example, if the chemicals are giving off fumes or if the victim is in danger of getting splashed with more of the chemical, then remove the victim to another room or go outside.   Always take precautions to protect yourself when tending to someone who has received a chemical burn. For example, you may need to wear long sleeves, gloves, a mask, goggles, or other protective gear to prevent yourself from receiving a similar injury. If there are any dry chemicals left on the victim's skin, then brush these chemicals off before irrigating the area. If the victim has clothing, jewelry or other items on that are contaminated with chemicals and/or obstructing your access to the burn, then make sure that you remove these items before you being treatment. Leaving these items on may cause further damage. You will also need to be able to access the burn site to brush off any leftover dry chemicals and irrigate the area with water. If you receive a burn from a chemical, you should first dilute the chemical compound. This is the best thing you can do to treat a chemical burn right away. To do this, flush the burn and the surrounding areas of skin with copious amounts of water. The water should be cool. Let the water run over the burn for 10 minutes or more.  Don't use a high pressure stream of water to wash the skin. Too much water pressure can make the chemical burn worse by driving the chemical deeper into the skin. Just use light irrigation by holding the wound under a gentle stream of water and keep it there for a long time. Some chemical burns should not be treated with immediate irrigation. These include dry lime, elemental metals such as sodium, and phenol. This is because combining these chemicals with water causes a harmful exothermic (heat-producing) reaction and/or releases hazardous byproducts. For chemicals in the eyes, remove contact lenses and use an eyewash.  These are found in...


Remove the peas from the freezer. Cook in boiling water. Add direct to meals you're cooking.

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Select the amount needed, leaving any unwanted peas in the freezer still. If cooking them alone, they'll need to be boiled for about 3 -10 minutes, depending on the amount added. Steaming is also an option, allow a little extra time. Butter or oil can be added to improve the flavor of boiled frozen peas. Frozen peas can be added straight to soups, stews, casseroles, stir-fries, etc., as you're preparing the dish. Frozen pea pods can be thrown direct into stir-fries and stews.


Remove the petals from the flower. Wet a paper towel. Put the wet paper towel at the bottom of your bag or container. Close the bag using the zip lock or put the lid on the box. Take the bags out every other day until you use them. Store your petals for three to seven days. Consider drying your rose petals after you have used them.

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Gently shake off any insects and discard any damaged blooms or petals. To remove the petals from the rose:  Grip the closed bud very lightly just below the petals. Squeeze around the base just below the petals and gently twist the stem to loosen the petals. Grip very carefully to avoid bruising your petals. Take a paper towel or paper napkin, fold it a few times, and wet it slightly. It should be able to hold the water like a sponge without dripping. Place the wet paper towel into a clear plastic bag or plastic freezer bag (ideally one with a zip closure or press seal). Alternately you can use a tupperware container or some kind of plastic box such as an old margarine or ice cream container. Just make sure it's clean and dry. Place the rose petals on top of the paper towel. Don't cram them into the bag or box as they are likely to bruise and break. Use several bags or boxes if required. Air should be able to circulate around the rose petals; this will help prevent them from rotting. Put the bag carefully into the fridge. Place your contained rose petals on their own shelf so that nothing can fall on them. You can stack the bags on top of each other but make sure nothing heavy rests on them. Make sure that they don't touch any part of the fridge that may cause them to freeze. For example, don't let them touch the back wall of the fridge as this is sometimes icy and will freeze them. Freezing will cause your petals to become mushy. It's important to take the bags out every other day. Give the bag a gentle shake and turn it over. This stops the petals from sticking together and helps air circulate in the bags. It's sometimes possible to keep rose petals fresh for up to a week in a fridge but try to take them out before the seven days are up. Ideally you should use the rose petals as quickly as possible after harvesting them. Try to use the petals within three days of plucking them from the flower. After using your petals for your event, you can try drying them for use in potpourri. Lay them out in a single layer...


Remove the piano lid. Wrap the lid in 2 or 3 moving pads. Remove the piano’s lyre. Set the piano onto its side on a piano board. Wrap the body of the piano with moving pads or blankets. Strap the piano to the piano board. Remove all of the piano legs. Wrap each pedal separately with plastic or bubble wrap. Wrap the piano legs and lyre in blankets.

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The large lid of the grand piano will be attached by small screws and hinges on its longest side. Remove the screws and the hinges using the type and size of screwdriver that matches the screw heads. Lift the lid off of the piano, and set it aside.  You may need to hold the points of 3 or 4 different sizes of screwdriver against the screw to see which size fits properly. Save these screws—and all others that you remove while disassembling the piano—in a plastic bag for safekeeping. Place the lid hinges in the plastic bag, too.  Label the bag “lid screws” so you can correctly re-assemble the piano lid. These pads will prevent the lid from being scratched or damaged during the move, so make sure the wood is fully covered by the pads. Then, use either packing tape or 2 buckle straps to hold the moving pads firmly in place. You can buy thick moving pads at any moving-supply store, and at many hardware stores. If you don’t have the budget or inclination to use moving pads, you can also use spare blankets from around your house. The lyre on a grand piano comprises the pieces of wood in the front of the piano (right beneath the keyboard) to which the pedals are attached. Kneel down and unscrew the lyre from the underside of the body of the piano. Set the lyre aside for now.  Keep all screws and any accompanying metal plates in a plastic bag. Label the bag “lyre screws” to prevent confusion between these and the screws for the lid hinges. Place a piano board about 3 feet (0.91 m) to the left (when facing the keyboard) of the piano. Have another person (or 2) help you pick up the grand piano and tilt it towards its long, flat side. Set this side gently on top of the piano board. Never let the weight of the piano rest on the legs, as they can easily snap off.  Do this very carefully, so as not to drop or damage any part of the piano. The movement should be controlled and guided at all times. A piano board is a large, flat wooden surface build to hold the side of a piano. Piano boards typically have handles to which you...


Remove the plant from its pot. Cut away the outer soil and roots. Loosen up the root ball. Trim off up to a third of the root ball as necessary. Repot your plant at the same depth.

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Turn the pot upside down (or on its side, if it's a large pot that's too heavy for you to hold in one hand) and smack the bottom of the pot 2 or 3 times. The plant should come out of the pot cleanly.  You can also hold the pot with both hands and tap the edge against a potting bench or other sturdy surface. Just be careful not to break the pot. You may end up with quite a mess, so you may want to cover the ground in a tarp or garbage bag beforehand. If you notice soil drying up quickly, or roots growing through the drainage holes, it's a sign that your container plant needs to have its roots pruned and be repotted. When a plant is completely rootbound, watering the root ball thoroughly before removing the plant can help it come out more easily. Using a sharp gardening knife or pruning shears, carefully cut away the outer, circular growth of roots and soil. Make sure your tool is sharp, so all the cuts you make are clean.  Stick to the thin, non-woody feeder roots. Avoid cutting any taproot, corm, or bulb your plant has, or the plant will die. Cutting through the outer roots growing in a circular pattern will keep the plant from strangling itself as it grows. Take time to evaluate the health of the roots. They should be light-colored and fresh smelling. If they have a foul smell or darker color, it could indicate fungal disease or other serious problems with your plant. Look for fungi growth, and apply a fungicide. It could take months or even years to restore your plant. Use a single-prong or single-tine cultivator to loosen up the root ball. Rootbound plants may take some work, especially if the roots are tightly packed. Take care not to actually cut any roots as you're loosening up the root ball. You can also untangle the roots gently with your fingers. This may be more appropriate than using a gardening tool with much smaller plants. After you've sufficiently loosened the root ball, trim the thin feeder roots from the bottom using pruning shears. The amount of roots you need to trim depends on the space in...


Remove the platform and tank. Pour the resin in a storage container. Spray and wipe down the tank. Clean the glass window.

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In order to clean resin from a 3D printer, you will first have to remove the resin tank and platform. To do so, remove the platform first to avoid getting resin on it. Then, gently slide the resin tray out of place by holding it by the front tabs, sides, or rims. Avoid touching the glass as you do not want to stain it with fingerprints. Some resin trays may be held in place with tabs, so consult your user's manual for precise instructions for your machine. If you have an old resin bottle on hand, it's best to use this to store the resin. Do not pour old resin into a bottle of new resin. Pour the resin into an old container so the tray is completely empty. Use a spray bottle filled with isopropyl alcohol to clean the tray. You can buy isopropyl alcohol online or at a department store. Gently spritz down the inside of the tank with the alcohol. Then, use a wipe out any stuck-on resin using a paper towel. The glass window found above the tray should be cleaned as well. Some resin may be stuck onto the glass. Put on a pair of nitrile or neoprene gloves (not latex) and use your fingers to gently rub or peel off any resin. If any alcohol got onto the glass tray, use a lens wipe or microfiber cloth to remove it.


Remove the pockets. Detach the rails. Free the felt. Separate the slate from the table. Place the slate in your vehicle. Remove the legs. Load the frame. Transport it to its new home. Scope out the new location. Rebuild your table in reverse order. Place the slate.

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Every standard pool table with have 4 corner pockets and 2 side pockets. Depending on the design of your pool table, these could be attached to the table in various ways, though usually you'll find staples attaching each to the table. Lay on your back underneath the pocket and pry the staples out with a flathead screwdriver or staple puller. To prevent an errant stable falling into your eye, you do not lie directly under the pool table, and you might consider wearing some kind of eye protection. Again, the part holding the rails to your table depends on your table, but chances are good that bolts will be holding these in place. You can remove these bolts easily with a regular socket wrench. Slide each rail free. If the rails are attached in sections, you may need a helper to flip them over all at once and disconnect them. This is the most delicate part of the process, as a tear to your felt can ruin it completely. If the felt is held in place by staples, a staple puller may help prevent you from incurring damage to the felt.  Glued felt can be removed by gently pulling it backwards, never upwards or forwards, taking care not to rip it.  If you are planning to reuse the felt, fold it up to prevent wrinkles. There will likely be screws holding the slate of your pool table to its frame. These can be most effectively removed with a power drill that has been fitted with the right type of bit. In some cases beeswax is used on the screws to prevent damage. If this is the case, use a flathead screwdriver to scrape off the beeswax before unscrewing the slate. The rock that forms the level surface upon which you play pool must remain unblemished to protect the integrity of your future games. Slate usually comes either in a solid piece or three pieces. Lift the slate off the pool table legs and set it in your transport vehicle.  It's safe to stack the pieces of slate on top of each other, but be sure each are properly fastened and don't jostle against anything the might cause damage. To make sure that your slate is...


Remove the pods of flesh. Eat the fruit with your hands. Eat around the seed. Slice the fruit into pieces as an alternative.

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When the shell has been fully cracked open, the sections of the shell will come apart in wedges. Inside each wedge will be a pod of fruit. You'll be able to pull the fruit away from the shell easily if the durian is ripe. Otherwise, use a sharp knife to cut away the fibrous parts attaching the pod to the shell, and then remove the fruit. The edible fruit of a durian is the soft and yellowish pod-like flesh at the center of each wedge. Durian fruit is soft and custard-like, so you'll be able to tear pieces off the pods easily. Remove a bite-sized chunk from one of the pods and eat the fruit with your hands. Continue tearing off bites and eating the fruit with your hands.  A single cup (243 g) of durian contains over 350 calories, and it’s also high in fat and sugar. However, durian also contains lots of nutrients, including vitamins C and B6, iron, manganese, fiber, and potassium.  Some people find durian to have a pungent fruity flavor, while others think it tastes like onions, rotting, or turpentine. Durian is an acquired taste, so don’t worry if you don’t like it. Inside each pod of flesh will be a dark seed that’s similar in size to a date. This seed isn't edible. You can either cut out the seed before you start eating, pull it out with your fingers, or eat around it like you would with a cherry. Instead of eating durian with your hands, you can slice the pods into thin slivers to serve them on a platter or with other foods. After you remove the pod from the shell, place the fruit on a cutting board. Use a knife to slice the durian into small sections. Remove the seed when you find it.


Remove the pour over and serve the coffee.

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Once the coffee has finished dripping out of the bottom, lift off the pour over brewer. Carefully pour the hot coffee into 2 mugs or cups and serve them immediately. You can discard or compost your coffee grounds. Wash out the pour over brewer according to the manufacturer's instructions.


Remove the power cable from the back of the router and leave it unplugged for thirty seconds. Find your router’s IP address. Press and hold the “Reset” button on the router for 15 seconds to restore it to factory settings.

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If you are unable to connect to your U-verse router over Wi-Fi or Ethernet, the device may need to be restarted. After waiting thirty seconds, plug the router back in and give it time to start up, then try to connect. If you are unable to pull up the router’s web interface by plugging in the default address (http://192.168.1.254), the default address may have been inadvertently changed.  Windows: Press ⊞ Win+R, type cmd and press ↵ Enter. Type ipconfig and press ↵ Enter. The address next to Default Gateway is the address you should use to connect to the router. Mac: Open the Apple menu and select "System Preferences". Click "Network", then select your active network connection. The "Router" address entry indicates the address of your router. If the login information is not working or the connection times out, resetting the router could fix the problem. You may need to use the end of a paperclip to press the button, as it’s quite small.  Resetting the router will erase any configuration changes you have made.  The wireless network name and password will change back to the one printed on the router's label. Call AT&T for help. If you’re still not able to access your router, you may be experiencing a hardware issue. Call technical support for additional troubleshooting tips.


Remove the puff pastry from the packaging.

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Thawing at room temperature takes the least amount of effort on your part but can be quite slow. Look at the pastry sheets to find out if they need to be thawed. If they are cold and you can easily fold them, they are ready for use. If they feel warm to the touch, place them in the fridge and let them chill.


Remove the root and leaves.

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Place your leek lengthwise on a cutting board, then use a sharp knife to chop off the stringy root. Then, cut off the leaves at the opposite end of the stalk. You'll be left with the part that's white or pale yellow at the center, and pale green at the end where you chopped off the leaves. Leek leaves are very tough, so you can usually discard them after slicing them off, unless you plan to boil them in a broth or stock.