Provide areas and equipment for playing sports. Buy free weights. Buy isolation machines. Buy cardio machines. Offer exercise classes.

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The best gyms offer a wide variety of exercise opportunities to their clientele. These exercise opportunities should cater to the naturally varying interests of the people who use the gym. One fun, relatively easy-to-provide type of exercise is sports. Many popular types of sports can be relatively cheap to offer and maintain. For instance, all that's needed for basketball is several regulation-size hoops, which can be placed indoors, outdoors, or both. Below are several types of sports you may want to offer at your gym (and the space and equipment required for each). Note that many gyms offer only a few of these sports, or none at all:  Basketball: Regulation-sized hoops and court (can be indoor or outdoor; usually includes regulation floor markings) Soccer: Goals, regulation-sized field with regulation markings. Running: Track; usually includes starting marks and/or distance markers Baseball: Diamond/field or batting cages. Boxing/sparring: Indoor ring or gym, punching bags, gloves, and masks. Swimming: Indoor or outdoor pool. Olympic-sized is ideal but other sizes common. Members of your gym with serious fitness goals will often want to develop muscles, strength, and flexibility. This almost always refers to performing strength building exercises with "free weights" — dumbbells, barbells, kettlebells, and other resistance training tools. Nearly every serious gym will have at least one area of the gym dedicated to housing a wide array of free weights to members. Below are just a few of the types of free weights most serious gyms will offer:  Bench presses Squat racks Deadlift mats Bicep curl racks Pullup/dip racks Racks of dumbbells with benches for upper body exercises Most modern gyms offer isolation machines (sometimes called "Nautilus" machines after the brand name of a popular supplier) in addition to free weights. These machines allow members to exercise one muscle or group of muscles at a time by using the machine to lift adjustable amounts of weights. Though isolation machines can vary in their...


Provide choices when the time comes for the transition. Listen if the child gets upset. Be clear that transitions are not punishments. Use siblings and friends as peer models. Praise for great transitions.

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The child might not be allowed to skip the difficult transition, but you can provide some choices to give them power over the situation. For example, ask, "Do you want to clean up by yourself, or do you want help?" or "Next it's time for homework. Do you want to work in your room or at the kitchen table?" Hear their frustrations, validate their feelings, and explain that you understand. Help them to focus on upcoming enjoyable tasks, and provide reminders of the next time the preferred activity will be available.  For example, say, "I know it's hard to stop playing with blocks, but next we get to eat a snack! You can play with blocks again afterwards." Provide understanding without encouraging or reinforcing tantrums or other inappropriate behavior. You can also mention why the next activity matters. For example, "It's important to go to the grocery store, because that's where we get our food to eat. You can pick out something special when we go." Remind the child that they haven't done anything wrong; you're just following the day's schedule. Try to be positive and get them excited about the next activity, and avoid connecting the idea of moving to a new task as anything related to what the child has done; if it wasn't a consequence for their actions, you should be clear that it wasn't, to avoid associating it with punishment. If the child responds well to other children, ask classmates or siblings to invite the child to do the next activity with them. Provide praise and encouragement for all the children involved. Avoid comparing or singling the autistic out; instead make them part of the group and reinforce everybody's success. Use a lot of clear, positive praise when the child transitions calmly. After harder transitions, remind the child that they had a hard time but that everything is okay now, and they can do it calmly next time; don't blame the child or make them feel worse about the transition. Stay positive. If you need to, you can use rewards (stickers, a point system, etc) for successful...


Provide context to give your hook meaning. Narrow your ideas from broad to specific to focus your introduction. Introduce specifics to establish your topic. Provide just enough information to convince people to read your text.

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This part of the introduction gets you and your reader from the hook to the main idea of your paper or text. Provide some background information on the hook you just used or establish how it relates to your topic. For example, if you used a quote, you might say, "That quote, from renowned scientist John Biologist, shows just how far cats have come over the course of evolution." Often, your hook is a bit broader than your main idea, which is fine. In this transitional area, use sentences that gradually narrow down your topic until you hit the specific idea you want to discuss. For instance, if you started with a story about how cats evolved in an essay on cat traits, you might start narrowing by first discussing what traits they inherited from their ancestors. Then, you can move on to the traits they've developed since branching off from other predators. In these transition sentences, begin adding specifics to give the reader an idea of where you're headed. Use these specific points to move towards your main topic.  For example, you might write, "It's impossible to talk about the characteristics of cats without at least mentioning evolution. However, I will focus primarily on the contemporary genes of domesticated cats." Here, you're letting the reader know that your main idea is genes in domestic cats, so you've gotten more specific. However, you're still moving to your main idea sentence, where you'll specify just what genes you plan to cover. Give enough information that your reader is interested in reading your paper and is able to follow along with what you're saying. However, don't give your whole argument, as then the reader doesn't have an incentive to read your paper.  The introduction helps engage your readers. The trick is finding the right balance between providing enough information to pique their interest, but not giving so much information that you answer every question upfront. For instance, you might talk about how you plan on showing how cats evolved to be the perfect predators, but you don't...


Provide drinking water. Soak your tortoise every week. Feed your tortoise a varied diet. Provide vitamins.

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Be sure to provide your tortoise with a shallow bowl of water for drinking. Change the water regularly to keep it fresh. Don't be too alarmed if your tortoise doesn't seem to drink much. Some species, especially those that are native to arid climates, drink very little water, but it's still a good idea to have it available for them. Every one to two weeks, you should soak your tortoise in a bowl of room temperature water for approximately 15-20 minutes. This will help keep the tortoise hydrated.  Make sure the water doesn't go any higher than the tortoise's chin. The tortoise may start drinking while it is soaking, so make sure the water stays clean. Tortoises all need to be fed a varied diet in order to ensure that they get all of the nutrients they need. Each species of tortoise, however, has its own specific dietary needs. Be sure to identify the species of tortoise that you have and feed it a diet that is recommended for that species.  Desert tortoises should be fed a combination of grasses, leafy greens, and cactus flowers, with a small amount of fruit. Grassland grazers like leopard tortoises should be fed a variety of grasses and leafy green vegetables. You should not feed them other vegetables, fruits, or meat. It's extremely important to supplement a baby tortoise's diet with vitamin D3 and calcium. Tortoises can die without these nutrients, so don't skip this step! A multivitamin is also good for balancing out nutritional needs. You can buy supplements in powder form at any store that sells supplies for tortoises. You can also crush supplements that come in pill form.


Provide enough space. Create a shelter. Build a fence.

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Before you purchase your llama, make sure that you have the proper amount of pastureland. The general rule of thumb is to have three to four llamas per acre (1/2 hectare). However, if you only have two animals, it does not mean that they only need a half-acre of pasture. You need to make sure that you have enough land to graze your llamas, while the other half remains fallow.  Consider testing the quality of your pasture grasses before placing llamas on the land. Providing enough space for your llama will help keep them happy and healthy. Overcrowding can cause rampant disease. In most climates, a three-sided shelter will sufficiently protect your llama. Your animal needs to be warm and dry in the winter, and cool in the summer. Because they are naturally conditioned for cooler climates, a llama may not need a barn since its fleece will help keep it warm. However, if you already have barn, use it. Your shelter should be at least seven feet (2 m) tall and wide enough to accommodate multiple llamas. You will need to construct a fence around your llama, partially to keep it from wandering off, but mostly to keep predators away. Dogs, coyotes and other large animals may attack your llama and injure or kill it. To keep these unwanted animals away, surround your pasture with “no-climb” fence. This sturdy wire fence will keep other animals out and your animal in.  You will want to purchase no-climb fencing that is at least 4 to 5 feet (1-1.5 m) tall. If you already have a wooden fence, simply wrap the no-climb fence around it. This should keep most dangerous animals out. You can buy no-climb fence at your local farm supply store.


Provide entertainment. Give your canary a bath. Clip your canary's nails. Cover your canaries at night. Watch for illness.

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A toy or a swing in the cage can help keep your canary entertained. However, canaries are less inclined to play with toys than many other types of birds. One toy should be sufficient. More can clutter up the cage and make it harder for your canary to fly around, which should be your top priority. In the wild, canaries like to roll around in damp grass. Putting damp dandelion leaves or grass at the bottom of the cage can serve as a fun distraction. Your canary should care for itself. You will only need to provide a shallow water dish filled with lukewarm water. Place the dish on the cage floor away from your canary's perch. Plastic planter dishes are ideal. Clean the bowl daily. Canary nails need to be clipped approximately twice per year to keep it healthy. However, there is a vein inside the nail that, if punctured, can cause severe and potentially fatal bleeding. Consult with your veterinarian about proper nail clipping technique. Canaries prefer to sleep in the dark. If there are any outside noises or lights in your house, cover the cage with a towel or blanket over night, to help it go to sleep. Canaries are hearty animals. Be aware of signs of illness, however, so that you can take your canary to the vet if anything is wrong. Be mindful if you canary lacks appetite or begins to lose weight rapidly.  Other signs of illness include droppings that are not black or white, wheezing, lethargy, molting out of season, and ruffled feathers. If your canary is fluffed up for long periods of time it might be too cold, and if it holds its wings away from its body and pants, it might be too warm. It will prefer temperatures from 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.


Provide fun dough-cutting tools. Play a color guessing game. Make party favors.

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Playdough is fun to mold into any shape, but children especially enjoy rolling the dough out and cutting fun shapes out of it. Plastic cookie cutters can be found at any grocery store. If you want really unusual shapes visit your local baking supply warehouse.  Plastic utensils such as spoons and forks can be used to make interesting patterns in the dough. Cups and bowls can be pressed into a sheet of dough to make perfect circles. Kool-Aid powder is usually white until liquid is added. If you conceal the Kool-Aid package, you can have children guess what color the dough will be before you add the water. Give out prizes such as cookie cutters or stirring privileges to the winners. Never leave the stove unattended around children. If you need to move to a different room while cooking, turn off the stove and take the children with you. Kool-Aid playdough is a great party favor for children’s birthday parties. Mix up a few batches of colorful dough and split the dough into smaller amounts. Purchase small plastic ramekins with lids from a restaurant supply store. Next, fill the ramekins with the dough, close the lids tightly, and group the different colors together to create sets.  The presentation is important as well. Either wrap the sets in wrapping paper or tie a ribbon around them to keep them together. Make sure to tell the parents that the dough is non-toxic and sugar free!


Provide gifts and giveaways when you can. Bring food. Encourage your employees to socialize. Promote professional development.

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Some companies offer concert or sports tickets to their employees. Others hold drawings for restaurant gift cards. These kinds of perks can go a long way in making your employees feel satisfied at work. This can also be a fun way for employees and management to interact and create stronger bonds. People respond well to food encouragement. Show your employees you appreciate them by providing them with a little refreshment on the company’s dime every now and then. Consider bringing in bagels for breakfast once a week, or hosting a pizza lunch for high performing departments once a month. A great way to make sure your employees are happy is to make sure they are creating bonds with their colleagues at work. Facilitate this kind of social engagement between coworkers by hosting company events. Host a happy hour, hold a company picnic in the summer, and celebrate the holidays as a team at the end of the year. Whether you provide tuition reimbursement or a chance to train for a new role, employees who see opportunities for growth within a company are more likely to be happy and stay where they are.  Happy employees stay at jobs longer than unhappy ones, which will save your company money in the long run. Consider offering professional training courses, management grooming opportunities, or options to transfer departments/locations more easily.


Provide good options for your kids. Coach your children through difficult decisions. Use hypothetical examples. Allow your child to learn from poor decisions.

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Good decision-making skills can also help to inspire creativity in your kids. When your child has a decision in front of him or her, try presenting a few good options and asking your child to weight the benefits and downsides of each one.  For example, if your child wants to get a treat in the grocery store, you might encourage him or her to choose between three healthy options, such as a granola bar, a bag of dried fruit, and a container of yogurt covered nuts. Having good choices to choose from will ensure that your child makes a good choice while also allowing your child to imagine the benefits and downsides of each option. This process may help your child to develop his or her creativity. Encouraging your child to look at a problem from many angles can also encourage creativity. If your child has a tough decision to make, try sitting down with him or her and talk about the decision. Encourage your child to look at every option and to look at the pros and cons of these options.  Don’t make the decision for your child, just help him or her to select the best choice by discussing options together and asking questions to encourage your child to think critically. For example, you might ask, "What do you think that outcome of that decision would be?" And, "What benefits does this option have over the other options?" You may also want to sit down with your child again after the decision has been made and talk about how it turned out and whether or not your child still thinks it was the best option. For example, you can ask something like, "Knowing what you know now, would you still make the same decision? Why or why not?" Presenting your child with hypothetical moral dilemmas can also be a good way to help your child to build his or her decision making skills and nurture creativity at the same time. You can encourage your child to examine multiple possible decisions, consider the potential outcomes, and decide which one he or she would choose.  For example, you might ask your child to imagine what he or she...


Provide housing for your crickets. Purchase or gather your crickets. Provide warmth. Gut-load the crickets. Manage cricket reproduction. Wait for the hatchlings to appear.

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You will need a few spaces for your crickets to live, reproduce, and grow in.  Making sure that they have everything they need will help ensure that the crickets are healthy and are able to reproduce, eventually providing nutritious food for your reptile. Try to build your cricket houses with some of the following features in mind:  You will likely want three houses.  One for normal living, one for breeding, and one for the crickets who are soon to be fed to your reptile. These can be simple plastic or glass containers.  Make sure the lid is screened and not airtight. The housing container should have things like cardboard tubes for your crickets to hide and live in. The breeding container will have the same tubes but should have moist dirt on the floor, encouraging your crickets to lay eggs. The feeding container will be set up the same way as you have built your housing container.  Check out this guide for more detail about cricket housing. If you want to raise your own crickets, you will need to obtain enough crickets to start a colony.  These starter crickets will breed and produce a substantial amount of hatching crickets, growing the size of your colony and providing plenty of food for your reptile.  Keep some of the following tips in mind when starting your cricket colony:  These crickets will likely be labeled as “breeding stock”. You will need around 15-20 large crickets to start your colony. This colony should produce around 100 hatchlings. Your crickets will need to stay warm in order to maintain health and keep reproducing.  You can provide warmth by using an incandescent bulb during the day.  Use a thermometer to check the temperature, keeping it at a level that is best for your crickets.  A 40 watt incandescent bulb will provide enough warmth for a 10 gallon tank. Use the light for around 16 hours a day. Keep the temperature between 75° to 85°F Although the goal is to provide proper nutrition to your reptile, properly caring for your crickets is just as important.  Well-fed crickets will be...


Provide informed consent. Explain protection procedures. Give the patient a form to sign. Get parental permission for minors. Describe research.

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To give informed consent, the counselor must explain the benefits and risks of counseling as well as its alternatives. They must also explain state laws regarding when they may be required to break confidentiality and describe how they might be required to do so. The counselor must request permission to record counseling sessions in writing or via video and audio. Counselors have a wide range of issues they should raise during a discussion of informed consent.  These include the purposes, goals, techniques, and limitations of counseling. The counselors should discuss their qualifications, their credentials, their relevant experience, their approach to counseling and provisions for continuation of service should the counselor become unavailable to continue treatment. You should also explain fees, billing, and procedures in case of nonpayment. If any supervisors or peers will review records, this should be noted in the informed consent procedure. To obtain informed consent you need to explain how you will protect confidentiality. This includes detailing how records will be stored. It also includes explaining cases in which the client’s comments are not confidential. This applies to electronic communications as well, including after hour phone calls, text messages, email, and skype sessions. You should discuss how confidentiality shall be maintained in such circumstances, and what risks to client confidentiality emerge when you are contacted after hours. You should provide a written form for the patient to sign, authorizing informed consent. This should remain in your patient’s file. The language of the form is subject to change, but it should be inviting and easy to read. It should also cover most of the aforementioned points. It is advisable that you keep a copy of the form in the lobby so that patients can read it before speaking to you. When counseling those under 18, informed consent must come from a parent. You should have two separate forms, one informed consent form that the minor signs and another...


Provide lots of space. Build a beach. Keep clean. Handle with love.

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Turtles enjoy swimming, basking in the sun, and being active. Turtles also grow. Therefore, providing lots of space for your turtle to enjoy these activities and giving room to grow is important in making your turtle happy.   Research the potential mature size of your turtle and buy a tank that will reflect his growth. Turtles cannot be crammed into a small space or they will be unhappy. Glass aquariums that provide about three to four times the length of the turtle are most desirable. Turtles need to be able to totally submerge themselves and they need an area to get out of the water and get completely dry. Keep in mind that the bigger the tank is, the happier the turtle will be. Turtles are reptiles that, surprisingly, have a large territory in the wild. Try to reflect that with a large tank. Turtles take pleasure from spending time on land and water, so creating an environment that allows them to do both will make them happy. Although turtle aquariums do not need much landscaping creating an appropriate habitat will maximize your turtle’s health and longevity. Designing the habitat can be a fun and creative project, but always remember to keep your turtle’s needs in mind.   Try to keep the water portion deeper than the shell is wide so your turtle can completely submerge and swim freely. Slope the land portion into the water so your turtle does not have trouble entering or exiting the water portion. Turtles love to bask in the sun. Create a basking platform so your turtle can enjoy the UVA and UVB heat lamps you set up in the tank. Turtles can relax under the light for up to ten to twelve hours a day. Turtles are messy – they excrete, eat, and leave behind scraps of food in their water. If you do no clean their aquarium, both the turtle and its habitat will stink. Moreover, all this waste could potentially cause high ammonia and nitrate levels.   Clean your turtle’s aquarium weekly or create a separate area outside the tank to feed and allow your turtle to excrete waste before reentering the aquarium. An...


Provide moderate water. Train the plant if desired. Spread mulch. Fertilize with caution. Prune three times a year. Treat the plant for pests when necessary. Watch out for fire blight and scab.

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Established pyracantha can survive mild to moderate droughts, but if the area has not received any rainwater in over a week, you should soak the soil around the base of the plant using a garden hose. Provide enough water to thoroughly saturate the soil.  If the plant begins to drop leaves, it probably isn't getting enough water. If the leaves begin to turn yellow or if the wood of the plant becomes soft, it might be receiving too much water. If you planted the pyracantha against a wall or fence, you can encourage it to grow upward and against this structure instead of growing outward.  Most pyracantha cultivars are strong enough to hold themselves against a wall or fence without any assistance, but they will still benefit from being tied down. Run wires along your wall next to the pyracantha and tie the branches of the shrub to these wires with string or cable ties. If you are training the pyracantha against a fence or trellis, you can tie the branches directly to the structure using string or cable ties. Spread a 2-inch (5-cm) layer of organic mulch around the base of each pyracantha shrub. Mulch can hold in moisture, thereby preventing the roots of the plant from weakening due to intense dry weather. Mulch also protects the plant from ground frost during cold winters Fertilizer is usually unnecessary when you're dealing with pyracantha. If anything, nitrogen-rich fertilizers can do more harm than good.  Nitrogen causes the plant to grow too many leaves. As a result, fruit yield suffers and the plant can be more susceptible to disease. If you do choose to fertilize the plant, use a balanced fertilizer containing equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium or one containing more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen. Apply it once during early spring and a second time during late summer. You can technically prune pyracantha during any time of the year, but many gardeners choose to prune these shrubs once in mid spring, once in early to mid fall, and once more in late fall to early winter.  Wait until the...


Provide new shells. Consider size. Select the best type of shells for your crab. Consider other factors.

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First and foremost, if you want your hermit crab to change to a new shell, you must provide some options for him to choose from! Make a variety of shells available to your hermit crab. Hermit crab shells can be purchased at pet stores, craft stores, or a variety of online retailers. It is important to remember that hermit crabs grow very slowly. When selecting new shells, you will want to select a few shells that are roughly the same size as the one he is wearing, and a few that are just slightly larger. Different types of hermit crabs tend to prefer specific types of shells. You can select the best shells for your crab by choosing varieties suited to your crab’s type. If you are not familiar with different shell types, someone at a pet store can help you.  For example, Coenobita clypeatus (or Purple Pincher) crabs generally prefer turbo shells. Coenobita compressus (or Ecuadorian) crabs tend to prefer short shells (such as Thais biserialis, T. orbita, or T. haemastom shells). They also prefer shells that been previously worn, as the inner spiral has often been removed. You will also want to select shells for your hermit crab by considering the shape of their opening, as well the thickness of given shells. In both instances, look to the shell your crab is currently wearing for clues.  Most shells will have either a “D” or “O” shaped opening. Look at the shape of the opening for the shell your crab is currently using, and select new shells that mirror this opening shape.  All crabs have preferences for the thickness of their shells. Investigate the thickness of the shell your crab is currently using. Then aim to provide alternative shells that share a similar thickness.  Avoid painted shells. Many pet stores (or craft stores) sell painted shells for hermit crabs to use. These painted shells must be avoided! Although they are cute, the paint can chip and be ingested by your crab, causing him to be very sick. In some cases, the paint used may even be poisonous to crabs.


Provide only the names of professional references to potential employers. Give your reference the information that they will need to prepare a well-organized letter of reference. Keep references aware of potential calls. Be sure to give your reference enough lead time to prepare a well-crafted letter of recommendation. Follow up.

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This may include former supervisors, co-workers, or subordinates as appropriate.  Potential employers do not want personal references, such as from friends or family. If you are a recent graduate with little related professional experience in your field, recommendation letters from former professors and academic advisors will carry more weight than letters from former supervisors or co-workers in jobs you may have held that are unrelated to the position you seek. Make sure your reference has the name, title and full address of the individual to whom the letter of reference will be directed. You may also want to provide your letter writer with a work sample or portfolio, if necessary.  Give your reference a description of the job for which you interviewed so that he or she can tailor the recommendation letter to address the qualifications and expertise necessary for the position. If a hard copy of a letter of recommendation will be submitted rather than an electronic version, provide your reference with a pre-addressed, pre-stamped envelope as a courtesy and to expedite the mailing of your letter of recommendation. If the hiring manager for the job for which you are applying will be calling your references rather than requesting a recommendation letter, then give your reference a heads up to expect such a call, including the name of the person who will be calling. If you've already interviewed for the position, let your references know what kinds of questions were asked of you, so they might know what to expect from the call. Even if you're just starting to think about applying for a new job, you'll know ahead of time this will be a necessary step in the hiring process. Make contact as soon as possible and get back in touch when you have firm dates. Thank your recommender for giving you a good reference with a lunch date or small gift. Keeping them abreast of your successes also ensures that you've got a good business contact in your field, someone who has a stake in your success.


Provide oral fluids. Use a catheter syringe. Fill the syringe with fluids. Restrain your dog. Put the syringe in the dog's mouth. Don't tilt the dog's head back. Watch for vomiting.

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You only give subcutaneous fluids while you are trying to slow down your dog's vomiting. Once your dog is able to keep fluids down, you can use an electrolyte-infused drink, such as Pedialyte, to help your dog get hydrated. These syringes have a stronger, wider tip, so they make it easier to give your dog fluids. You will not put a needle on the end to provide oral fluids. Use the syringe to draw up fluids. Stick the syringe in the bottle, and pull back the plunger to the appropriate line. Give 2 to 4 cubic centimeters for each pound your dog weighs per hour. Your dog will likely be weak from parvo, anyway. However, if your dog fights, you will need to hold your dog or have someone hold him for you while you give him oral fluids.  Try bracing the dog against your body so that he can't move around as much.  Hold him with one arm while you give him the liquid with the other. Start by inserting a finger into the mouth between the cheek and the teeth. Push the syringe gently in. The jaw does not have to be open. Push the plunger down, releasing the liquid into the mouth. The liquid should drain through the teeth. It may be tempting to lift your dog's chin to help the liquid drain to the back of the throat. However, doing so can make your dog breathe in the liquid, causing aspiration. Keep an eye on your dog after giving him liquids. If your dog throws it up, wait until later to try giving oral fluids again.


Provide plenty of litter boxes. Choose the right place for you litter boxes. Keep an eye out for unusual bathroom habits. Empty litter boxes weekly.

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To calculate the right number of litter boxes for your home, add one to the number of cats you have.  For instance, if you have two cats at home, you should have three litter boxes. Place the litter boxes in open, clean, quiet, well-lit spaces where the cats can see all around them.  A quiet corner of your living room or near the fireplace might be appropriate, depending on your home’s layout.  Do not place litter boxes in places where your cat might feel trapped or could be ambushed.  A closet or the end of a long hall with no exit are poor choices for a litter box location. Don’t place a litter box in a place which is only accessible by going up and down stairs like a basement.  If you have a cat that goes up and down stairs, place a litter box on each floor. If your cat is peeing in an unusual spot outside its litter box, for instance, take it to the vet.  It may be ill and in need of treatment.  Similarly, if your cat stops going to the bathroom, or starts going less frequently, contact your vet immediately.  Urinary tract infections, constipation, or other illness could be the cause for strange behavior. If your cat’s litter box isn’t clean, it might start going to the bathroom somewhere else, and you definitely don’t want that.  Each week, take the entire litter box and dump its contents into the trash.  Wipe the box out with an unscented, nontoxic disinfectant wipe and refill it with new litter. Make sure that you spot clean the box daily as well and remove any solids, such as feces and clumps of urine soaked litter.


Provide receptive people with a Bible and other appropriate literature. Lay out a plan with them. Pray with them. Recommend a church in the area.

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Have some Bibles on hand to gift to the most receptive of the people you communicate with. If your church has provided you with tracts or specific documents they hope to disseminate, give them to as many people as possible, interested or not. A person isn't going to become spiritually mature and be "Saved" after talking to you for five minutes. What's the next step? What should this person do tomorrow and the next day to build and maintain their new interest in your faith? Where might you direct them? Consider exchanging information, or giving them literature about your Church if you don't feel comfortable giving them your personal contact information. If the person has never prayed before, they might be curious and nervous about the process, which you can help facilitate by walking them through their first prayer session. Say a simple and brief prayer, introducing them to it as a practice. Tell them how to pray and when to pray. If you're in a town that's not your own, take some time becoming familiar with churches in the area that you can recommend. Knowing the time of the next service could be a nice way to give your possible converts a good next step.


Provide room to exercise. Find the best toys. Play "hide and seek". Monitor reactions.

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Snakes are not very social animals. For the most part, they prefer to be left alone, and do not always enjoy the company of people or other animals. However, there are some ways that you can constructively interact with your snake.  Most snakes do enjoy moving around. Make sure that you offer your pet the option to exercise. Some larger snakes enjoy swimming. If possible, provide a small pool, such as a kiddie pool, for your snake to swim in. Snakes also like to climb. Consider getting a climbing pole or artificial tree to place in your home. Your snake does not need unlimited access to exercise facilities. But your pet will enjoy coming out of his cage to move around a few times a week. Your snake doesn't need a lot of expensive toys to enjoy playing. One of a snake's favorite activities is curling around a long object. You can look in your yard or a local park to find a suitable material.  The size of branch that you want depends on the size of your snake. Snakes like to wrap their bodies around objects. Look for a stick or branch that is at least 1 foot long, or larger, if you have a large snake. Make sure it is sturdy enough to support your snake. You can allow your snake to play even when you're not around. Look for a small log to place in his cage. He will enjoy winding around it. Snakes love this game, although they generally only participate in the hiding part. It's natural that you want to spend quality time with your pet. Just remember that you want play time to be enjoyable for the snake, too. Take care to make sure that you choose a suitable place for your recreational activities.  The majority of snakes do not enjoy being around multiple people. Even though you might enjoy showing your pet off to a group of your friends, remember that is not enjoyable or comfortable for your snake. Choose a quiet room to play with your snake. Some snakes like to play a version of "hide and seek". If your home has a secure room, allow your snake to roam free in that room. He will likely find somewhere to hide,...


Provide snacks. Strategize by making a lot of just a few dishes. Make snacks easy to eat. Include vegetarian options. Source local food.

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Since a cocktail party doesn’t need a sit-down meal, be sure to provide your guests with plenty of snacks. Alcohol and an empty stomach simply don’t go well together! Plan on each guest eating 2-3 appetizers.  Common snacks include cheese and meat boards and assorted olive, nut, or fruit platters. You should also include a few sweets, such as cookies, in addition to more popular savory appetizers. Since appetizers can be fussy, streamline your party prep by making large amounts of simple dishes.  A table filled with overflowing platters and bowls looks better than sparsely populated trays of a variety of dishes. This also allows you to easily replenish any serving platters that begin looking sadly empty. Skip fussy appetizers that require a seat, plate, and silverware to consume.  Guests will find it easier to socialize with finger foods that require only a napkin or toothpick to consume. Meatballs on a toothpick or bite-size cheesecakes make for easy eating. It’s always a good idea to provide some veggie options for those friends who don’t care to eat meat.  A good crudite platter will do the trick and will accommodate vegans as well. You can have fun with the veggie options by putting out a bruschetta or go with a simple dip, such as spinach-artichoke. Providing locally sourced food and goodies will not only be supporting your community, but it also makes for a good conversation starter!  This is a great way for you to engage with your guests and get your guests to talk to each other.


Provide socks or slippers for guests. Provide scented foot spray. Be aware of alternative customs.

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If you want your guests to take off their shoes, it might be a nice gesture to provide them with an alternative that is acceptable to both parties. Having some nice slippers or comfy socks available for your guests can help eliminate your guests' feelings of discomfort or desire to push back against your request.  However, you will probably find that most guests will prefer to be in socks or bare feet than wear borrowed slippers. You can also try buying some disposable shoe covers (like the kind doctors wear over their shoes) for your guest to wear over his bare feet. This way, she won't feel strange borrowing someone else's socks or slippers and you can throw away the used covers after she leaves. It may be helpful for you to provide some scented foot spray near the area where you want your guests to remove their shoes. This will give your guests an alternative option if they are embarrassed about the possibility of having foot odor. In Japan, it is unheard of to walk into someone's house in your shoes, which are always left outside, and pretty slippers are always available. These can be bought quite cheaply in many local stores. This cultural difference is why it's a good idea to provide socks or slippers for your guests.


Provide the cage with a hamster wheel or "tread-wheel". Give your hamster a hamster ball. Provide the ability to indulge in climbing. Provide toys. Buy hamster tubes.

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This is a wheel that turns about when the hamster steps inside and causes the hamster to run as he continues to turn it around. When choosing a hamster wheel or tread-wheel, the following is recommended:  Ensure that the wheel is solid. If your hamster chews a great deal a solid metal wheel is best. Never use a mesh or barred wheel - these can cause serious injury because the feet can get stuck between the slats or bars.  Check the wheel for size. Syrian/Golden hamsters need wheels that are at least 8" in diameter although 10" plus-sized wheels are guaranteed to be large enough for their entire life. Dwarf species require wheels to be a minimum of 6.5" in diameter. Wheels that are too small can cause severe back problems and is often a reason for hamsters not using them and subsequently becoming bored.  Don't place a hamster wheel into a cage with a nursing mother; the mother may lose interest in her young and young hamsters tend to try to get in the wheel together and run on top of one another, thereby creating the potential for injury. A hamster ball is another great way to give your pet some fun exercise in a safe way. The beauty of a hamster ball is that your hamster cannot fit under anything and get stuck; just make sure that the lid to the ball is closed tightly so that your hamster doesn't get loose. Also make sure that there are no stairs or other drop-offs that your hamster could roll over. As with wheels, ensure that they are large enough to prevent damage to their spines.   When using a hamster ball outside the cage, be present at all times so that you can fend off any other pets or hazards before they turn into a problem. It is a good idea to lay down a hula hoop on the floor to provide a boundary that prevents the hamster ball from going anywhere else. You should still watch your hamster in the ball but this makes it easier to keep your hamster in one place. Hamsters love to climb, which is why providing a cage with horizontal bars on it is a great way to encourage your hamster to climb (it also...


Provide the last name of producers and directors with the year of production. Use the "et al" abbreviation in subsequent in-text citations. Use a time-stamp to locate specific information. Omit the in-text citation where unnecessary.

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When you mention a movie in text, you typically want to follow that mention with a parenthetical citation. Use the standard APA author-date format, except that for movies the producers and directors are considered the authors.  For example: "(Magness, Siegal-Magness, & Daniels, 2009)." Do not include the words producer or director after the names in parenthetical in-text citations. After the first in-text citation, you need only list the first name followed by the Latin abbreviation "et al" and the year of production. An exception is if there are only 2 producers or directors; in this case, list them each time. Also, if the movie has more than 6 producers and directors, only list the first one followed by "et al" for every citation. For example: "(Magness, et al, 2009)." If you want to direct your reader to a specific scene or part of the movie, follow the year of production with a time stamp or range of time stamps.  For example: "(Magness, Siegal-Magness, & Daniels, 2009, 1:30:00)." Reflect the format shown in the movie itself, putting zeroes in places where necessary. For example, if a movie's time is reflected in hours, minutes, and seconds, and you're citing something that occurred at the 30-minute mark, you would need a zero for the hours: 0:30:00. You'll have to pause the movie to identify the time when the part you're citing occurs. If you watched the film in a theater, you won't be able to do this, so take notes as best you can. By writing down the time, you can calculate the time stamp with reference to the time the movie started. You already have a full citation for the movie in your references. If you include enough information in the text that your reader can correctly identify the movie's full citation in your reference list, there's no need for a parenthetical in-text citation.  Since your citations start with the producer's and director's names, this generally means you need a parenthetical citation unless you've mentioned the name in your text. For example, the sentence "Hitchcock's film...


Provide the right food for your pug. Limit the amount of treats and food you give to your pug. Know that many pugs suffer from flatulence.

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Feed a good quality food. Look at the label and seek out a food that lists a named meat as top of the ingredient list. Avoid foods that are high in cereal or soya. Not only is this an indication of a less good quality food, but these ingredients ferment and can add to your pug's flatulence problems. Pugs are greedy and those big eyes will try to convince you that its still hungry. Pugs easily become overweight if fed too much, so learn how to body condition score your pug so that you closely monitor any slight weight gain so that you can cut his rations and lose the weight before it builds up into a big problem.  That said, pugs love to eat just about anything, so try giving it fresh vegetables for training treats, which keeps it motivated and healthy. Keep your pug’s food in dog-proof containers out of its reach. Otherwise your pug may break into the food container and gorge itself on the contents. It is especially important to keep your pug at a lean weight because of their breathing problems. Carrying extra weight puts extra demands on their body for oxygen, and extra body fat compresses the lungs, airway, and throat, which adds to his problems pulling in air. It is common for pug dogs to have more problems with gas because of their breathing problems. In their struggle to breath, pugs often inhale air down into their stomach and gut. This gas then passes through the digestive tract and it is vented as flatulence. Try placing air fresheners around your house or keeping a room spray at the ready to get rid of any unpleasant smells caused by your pug’s flatulence.


Provide water based on the native environment of the plant. Soak the area around a plant after you put it in the ground. Test the moisture with your finger. Use drip irrigation for plants with shallow roots. Ask an expert or someone at a nursery. Read about the specific plant.

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Determine where the plant grows in the wild. Then, provide water based on that environment or ecosystem. For example, if a plant is native to a tropical region and you live in a semi-arid environment, you’ll need to provide a lot more water to it than to plants that are native to your region.  If you're in a dry location (like the desert Southwest), provide more water to fruit and vegetable bearing plants than you would native plants. In addition, give more water to ferns and non-native flowering plants. If you're in a tropical environment, you may not need to provide any extra water to fruit and vegetable bearing plants. If you're in a temperate environment, research the specific plant (especially if it is fruit or vegetable bearing) to verify it gets enough water. Plants you've just transferred into a new pot or piece of ground should have their roots and the dirt around them soaked immediately. For the first week, provide water every other day. After the first week, monitor the plant closely to make sure the soil stays damp. Provide extra water if the soil is dry. at all times. In summer, this can require watering once or even twice a day.” Stick your finger into the soil around your plant up to the first knuckle. If the dirt feels cool, damp, or moist, it has enough water. If it feels dry, it may need more water. If you have a particular plant with shallow roots, you should set up a drip irrigation system. This system will slowly release water over a longer period of time. As a result, plants with shallow roots will have better access to water. Drip irrigation is especially useful for fruit and vegetable bearing plants in arid environments. Tomatoes, strawberries, and peppers will benefit immensely from drip irrigation. If you have trouble providing enough water to a plant, you may want to contact someone who has experience dealing with it. Nursery employees, arborists, or plant biologists may be able to provide insight into how much water a specific plant needs. Find a book or visit a website that has...


Provide year-round shelter. Give them straw bedding. Make sure that your pasture supports the number of sheep you choose. Keep the airflow moving. Set up fencing.

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Your sheep need a shelter that protects them from all the elements, year round. These elements include sun, wind, and rain. While a barn is a great, it's not necessary. A three-sided structure works just as well.  The nice thing about having a barn with stalls is that you can separate sick or pregnant sheep from the rest of the flock. A shaded area outside is a good idea, so that the sheep can be outside in the warm weather, but have somewhere cool to graze. This could be anything from an overhang off the barn, or a clump of trees. How much bedding you have should depend on how much time the sheep spend in their shelter. For colder climates it's best to give them a good, thick bedding of hay. This will keep them clean and warm.  You shouldn't use sawdust for wool sheep as this will ruin their wool. Some people consider pine shavings to be better than hay, because of its absorbency, but that simply depends on your personal preference. Pine shavings do cling to a sheep's coat, which can make it more difficult come shearing time. You can sprinkle PDZ in each stall and under the overhang outside about once a month to neutralize urine. Sheep will spend about 7 hours a day grazing. Most estimates are about 10 sheep per acre. The number can vary based on size and condition of sheep (ewes with lambs), condition of pasture (tall fescue grows fast spring and fall), and how you manage your pasture. Pasture sizes vary based on locale, climate, maintenance, type of planting, and rainfall. For example: dry rocky conditions will need more pastureland to provide more grass. Install a fan, and keep the doors to the shelter open. This is especially important if you live in a hotter climate, or have hot summers. There should be airflow all throughout the year, even in the cooler times, although you don't necessarily want to have the fan going in winter. A fan and open doors will cool the shelter on hot days, as well as keep the flies away from the sheep. Fencing is incredibly important for keeping the sheep in and the predators...


Provide your Uromastyx lizard with dark, leafy greens. Avoid calcium-blocking and nutrient-lacking greens. Feed your lizard greens once a day. Give your lizard pellets or seeds once a week. Put supplements on your lizard's food weekly.

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One of the best parts about caring for Uros is that they eat foods that can be picked up from the grocery store. Adult Uros will eat a variety of dark leafy greens, including bok-choy, collard greens, dandelion greens, mustard and turnip greens, escarole, endive, and radicchio. Your lizard may have particular favorites. Give them a mixture to choose from and then see which type of greens get eaten the most. There are some dark leafy greens, such as kale and spinach, that contain many oxalates, which are salts or organic compounds of oxalic acid. These oxalates can interfere with calcium absorption. They should be fed minimally. Also, do not feed Uros Romaine or iceberg lettuce. Lettuce has very little nutritional value. However, it does hydrate a lizard. Cut up whatever dark, leafy greens your lizard prefers and place them in a small bowl. Your lizard's food should look like a nice chopped salad.  Use a bowl that is shallow enough so that the lizard can see the food if it is standing on the ground. Remove uneaten greens daily. Also clean out the bowl before refilling it the next day. In addition to eating leafy greens, giving your lizard a few other foods will balance out its diet well. You can feed your lizard iguana pellets or tortoise food, whichever your lizard prefers. Uromastyx lizards also love seeds, including bird seed mixes and dried lentils. Pellets and seeds should not make up the majority of your lizard's diet. Sprinkle a small amount of calcium dust onto the lizard's food to supplement it. You should also put a small amount of multivitamin dust on its food as well. This will help your lizard's overall health. There are several types of calcium dusts available for purchase. If the lizard gets a lot of sunshine or UVB light, then you can use the outdoor version. If it is largely out of the sunlight and UVB, then you should use the indoor type.


Provide your anole with crickets. Dust the crickets. Give your lizard different prey occasionally. Don't leave uneaten crickets in your lizard's tank.

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One of the meals that anoles enjoy the most is crickets and they can provide most of the nutrients an anole needs. Thus, when caring for anoles, crickets will make up the majority of your lizard's diet. Buy the smallest crickets offered at your pet store. If there is only "one size" available at a pet store, go to a different one. Anoles need to be given small crickets. You will need to add supplement powder to the crickets at each feeding to help ensure the anoles get enough calcium and vitamins. Anoles are missing some key nutrients and can get metabolic bone disease (MBD) and die if they are not given supplements.  If you keep crickets around in bulk, "gut-load" them by feeding them a vitamin rich cricket food prior to feeding them to your lizards. This way, all of the nutritious food your crickets just ate will then, in turn, be passed on to your anole. Equally, if your crickets are starved, your anole soon will be too. In addition to crickets, anoles like small cockroaches or flies once in a while. This varies their diet and gives them some much needed exercise. Anoles may also eat waxworms, fruit flies, small worms, canned crickets, or earthworms. Unless it's feeding time, the anole's food should be kept away from it when the lizard sleeps. This way the "leftovers" won't munch on your lizard while it's asleep. You may not expect it but medium to large crickets can eat the anole's extremities. If the crickets are small enough, they probably won't bother your anole. However, some owners of anoles advise to never release or leave crickets loose in the tank with the lizard. Rather to place them in a separate container, move the anole to the container for 5–10 minutes to eat, and then move the anole back to his tank when done.


Provide your audience with additional resources. Leave time for questions. Ask students to complete a one-minute paper. Invite feedback from the audience. Compliment your audience.

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While the presentation might be drawing to a close, your audience may still want additional information. Provide students with suggestions about how they can continue the conversation or pursue independent research. For example, are there articles, books, or websites you would recommend on a specific topic? Are there other presentations or lectures you could encourage them to attend? Although your time might be limited, be sure to set aside time at the end of your presentation to answer questions. Giving the floor to students will make them feel empowered and engaged, and your presentation will be a more interactive and impressive one. If you run out of time, you can always ask students to write down their questions and hand them to you or email them. When the presentation is over, ask students to take one minute and write down what they believe to be the main point of the presentation. Also, ask them to identify a question they still have about the presentation or material.  Students will probably be more comfortable and honest if this is anonymous. This exercise will give you invaluable information about what your audience understands or doesn't understand about the material you presented. Then, you can make changes to improve and refine your next presentation. If you will see the same group again in the near future, you can discuss these comments and questions next time. Although you might be finishing up your presentation, you can still provide students with an opportunity to interact by asking them to provide anonymous feedback on the presentation or material. This demonstrates that you are committed to making the presentation even better, and the students feel like their input matters. Distribute notecards or a survey that students can complete. You could also provide a link to an online survey. Although you might be completing one presentation, you will probably have to do another in the near future. It's important to compliment your audience so they feel appreciated and will be more willing to...


Provide your crabs with water. Feed your crabs. Clean the tank. Reshape the environment.

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Although ghosts crabs live on land, and cannot actually swim, they do need a constant supply of water. Ghost crabs have to return to water periodically to moisten their gills in order to breathe. In the wild, a ghost crab would walk up to the shoreline and wait till a wave ran over him, before scuttling back up the beach. You must ensure your crabs have access to water in their container at all times.  You should ensure you have a dish of saltwater in the tank that you change at least every two weeks. Create saltwater by mixing two and a half teaspoons of sea or aquarium salt with a gallon of water to reach a gravity reading of around 1.01-1.08. Be sure you leave the water to sit overnight so that the chlorine and chloramines dissipate before you place it in the tank.  Make sure the dish is easy for your crabs to get in and out of. You crab can also get moisture from wet sand. Ghost crabs can be considered both scavengers and predators. They have a broad and varied diet, which includes decomposing plant and animal matter as well as mole crabs, clams and turtle hatchlings they catch on the beach.  Provide a variety of vegetables, fruit, fish and meat to your crabs and see which foods they like. Crabs really enjoy a variety of food, so try different natural foods and have not been treated with any pesticides or chemicals.  Avoid too much repetition in your crab’s diet and pay attention to what food he likes the most.  You can also buy prepared crab food from your pet store as a reliable and easy option. Ghost crabs aren’t especially messy or high-maintenance, but you will have to spend some time helping them maintain their environment. You should regularly spot clean the tank, to remove dirty sand and bits of food detritus. Use a sand sifter, fishnet or kitchen strainer to scoop up some sand and sift out the dirty bits. Add in some new sand every few weeks to keep the tank clean and refreshed.  Sift the sand more often the more crabs you have. With one crab, every three weeks is fine. With four, every week....


Provide your horse with plenty of fresh, clean water. Provide your horse with plenty of structural carbohydrates. Provide your horse with nonstructural carbohydrates in moderation. Supplement your horse’s diet with feed to provide protein, fat, vitamins, and minerals. Supplement as needed. Give treats in moderation.

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Horses require between 5-15 gallons of water per day. If possible, make sure that your horse has access to water at all times. Otherwise, make sure that you water your horse at least twice per day and allow several minutes for your horse to drink. Make sure that the water in your horse’s trough is clean and not frozen. Keep the trough clean as well by hosing it out every day. Structural carbohydrates, like hay and grass, are essential to a horse’s diet. Horses eat large quantities of hay and grass as their main source of food. In fact, horses should eat about 15-20 pounds or 1-2% of their body weight in hay every day, so make sure that your horse always has plenty of hay to chew on. Make sure that the hay you feed your horse is free of mold and dust. Nonstructural carbohydrates, like oats, corn, and barley, are also essential to a horse’s nutrition. Provide small amounts of grain to your horse throughout the day. Every day, horses can also have ½ pound of grain per 100 pounds of body weight. Feed grain to your horse in two or three evenly spaced feedings during the day.  Make sure to measure the portions that you feed your horse to make sure that you are giving her the correct amount.  If the weather is hot, feed grain to your horse during the cooler hours of the day, such as early in the morning and later in the evening. Although your horse will get most of its calories from hay and grass, you should feed your horse some fortified feed each day to help meet any nutritional gaps. Protein, fat, vitamins, and minerals are important parts of your horse’s nutrition, but they are not required in large amounts. If you think your horse is not getting all of the necessary vitamins and minerals from feed, then you can supplement with special vitamins for horses. Just be careful not to overload your horse with too many vitamins. An excess of vitamins can cause problems just like a deficiency of vitamins can. Giving treats to your horse when you want to reward her is a great way to bond with your horse as well. Just...


Provide your introduction in the first section of your outline. Provide essay body information in the second section of your outline. Check your work against your assignment sheet, if applicable.

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This section should include an attention getting opening and general information about your topic. The information you provide in your introduction outline should gradually become more specific as you progress through its subsections. The last subsection of your introduction outline should be your thesis statement.  Under the first sub-point, write a sentence that introduces the essay topic while also grabbing the reader's attention. A shocking fact or anecdote is a great way to start.   The second sub-point should describe the topic, history of the issue, background, or problem being explored. Keep this section brief, but include the information that your readers will need to know in order to understand your paper.   The final sub-point should be your thesis statement. State the idea or argument that you plan to discuss in your essay. The body of your essay should be the largest part of your essay, so you will want to devote at least three subsections to this portion of your outline.  Do not label each point as "main point." Instead, directly write out the point being explored. Under each main point, you should write supporting evidence to back the point up. Give each piece of supporting evidence its own line and sub-section. Then, write out an explanation analyzing the evidence and showing how it supports your claims. If desired, you could also include a sentence that transitions into your next major point at the end of each "main idea" section. This is not strictly necessary, though. If you're writing your outline to fulfill an assignment, you should always go back over your assignment sheet or rubric to make sure you fulfilled all of the requirements. Double check that your work completely satisfies your instructor's expectations so you'll get full credit!


Provide your parakeet with an ample-sized cage. Place your parakeet in a room with light. Talk to your parakeet. Provide enough food and water. Provide a separate, shallow water pool for bird baths. Change your parakeet’s paper cage lining. Give your parakeet fun toys.

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When you first bring your parakeet home from the pet store, you’ll probably be given a carrier box. This box will do for the trip home, but should most certainly not be used as a permanent housing space. Your parakeet needs enough room to live and avoid boredom. This means it’ll need several places to perch so it can watch you during your daily routine.  When transferring your parakeet to its new cage, be sure to open the cage door and put the box up to the tip of the cage door. Don't put your hand in there and try to force the bird out. You want to let the bird come out on its own. Patience is the key to getting your bird in the cage. If you shake the box and tilt it, you're just startling the bird more. This will cause the bird to want to move back further into the box. A good environment is vital to a healthy life for your parakeet. Do not put parakeets in a dark room that is quiet. If your room is bright and you are interacting with the parakeet, it will feel comfortable. Make sure the cage is level and in an area with adequate, but not too much foot traffic. Before you even begin to hand train it, you’ll want your parakeet to be used to your voice. Keep your voice at moderate levels with a normal speaking tone. Talk to your bird about anything you want to, just be sure to talk to it. It will hear your voice and want to inspect the source of the sound. Only after it isn’t startled by your voice and your physical presence outside its cage should you begin training. This is also the first step to train your parakeet to talk. Choose what language you want your parakeet to repeat. You should change your parakeet’s food and water every day. Birds can be very particular about their food and water, just like people. They might perceive something as tainted and refuse to touch it.  Food: Make sure that you place at least a tablespoon of seed in a parakeet’s food bowl every day. Your parakeet will eat the seeds, but leave shells and discarded parts of the seed in its bowl or near it while eating. Many new parakeet...


Provide your preferred nickname in place of your legal name. Put casual nicknames in quotation marks between your first and last names. Use a nickname as an alternative to a name difficult to pronounce locally. Shorten your name to initials as a strategy to prevent hiring biases. Give your preferred name if you're transitioning genders. Tell your potential employer your nickname in person.

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If you always go by your nickname, it’s perfectly acceptable to list it rather than the name you were given at birth. For instance, you can put down “Brad” instead of “Bradley,” or use “Lucy” instead of “Lucinda.”   Using the shorter version of your name could even make it stand out more to reviewers—“John Jennings” has a better ring to it than “Jonathan F.W. Jennings IV.”  The same can be done if you go by your middle name, although it may be helpful to omit your first name in this case in order to avoid confusion. In situations where people use your nickname and given name variably, it can be helpful to include your nickname within the formatting of your legal name. If your name is “Joseph” but you answer to “Joe,” you’d write it out as “Joseph ‘Joe’ Rollins.”  This format works best for monikers that are abbreviations of or common nicknames for longer names, such as “Matt,” “Jeff,” “Liz,” and “Alex.” You can also put your nickname in quotation marks when it’s something unrelated to your legal name (as in “Margaret ‘Carol’ Atkinson”). A birth name may be very difficult for people in your current location to pronounce correctly. However, when a human resources worker tries to background check "Molly" when your name is officially something else entirely, this can be problematic. Your resume is the perfect place to record your new pseudonym, as it commits it to record and makes it feel more official.  “Adam” may roll off the tongue easier than “Ata-ur-Rahman” for someone who isn’t used to pronouncing Arabic names, while “Julie” will probably be easier to manage than “Xiuying.” Some common names in English speaking countries may be difficult to pronounce in other countries, and it is entirely possible to have a nickname that you go by in other countries; having this recorded may help clarify confusion. The decision to use a nickname in place of your birth name is entirely up to you. It is entirely your right to be called by your name, even if it is not easy to pronounce. Unfortunately, workplace discrimination...


Provide your preschooler with limits. Encourage your preschooler to be independent. Facilitate social interactions with children. Interact with your child as a role model. Put your child in cooperative situations.

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During the preschool years, children really begin to explore the world around them. Their curiosity may seem to have no limit, so you must set the limits. Explain to your preschooler why they must stay in the yard and not cross the street alone, for example. While limits are important, so are expectations. It is okay to help your preschooler do things like button and zip their clothes. You should start expecting them to dress themselves, though (or at least try). Rather than making these tasks a chore, be sure to frame them in a positive way that keeps your preschooler excited about being independent. You can also set expectations such as helping to set or clear the table, picking up toys, and putting dirty clothes in a hamper. At this age, children are beginning to take turns and play together even more than in the toddler phase. You should encourage this social interaction by letting your child play with neighbors and friends. This will begin to build their confidence to make more friends as well as their social skills. Once you have created the social environment (a play date for example) back away and let your child interact with the other children. Only intervene when necessary. While interacting with peers is an important part of learning social skills, it isn’t foolproof. Other preschoolers that your child plays with are likely to have roughly the same social skills as your preschooler. This means that more advanced social skills will come from modeling older kids and adults. As a parent, you should try role playing games and take charge in your helping your child learn to be social. For example, preschoolers may practice saying please and thank you while they play, but may need your guidance to understand that they should make eye contact when they do so. This can often mean just letting your child play with other preschoolers, but it helps to be more intentional about it sometimes. Design scenarios where your child has to work with someone else to complete a task. Asking your child and a friend to do...


Prune at planting. Prune so that the lowest branch is 15 inches (38.1 cm) from the ground. Select scaffold limbs in the summer. Prune branches close to the trunk.

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As aforementioned, it is important to start the growth of your peach tree in the right direction by pruning at planting. If you plant in the fall, wait a few months till the next spring to prune. You don’t want the branches to start much higher on the trunk, because as the tree matures it will grow too tall.  The tallest branch should be about 30 inches (76.2 cm) from the ground total. Trim branches that are too long to meet this number. All branches should ideally grow at a 45 degree angle. If there are none near this measurement on your tree, prune all branches to a single bud and wait for more growth. Scaffold limbs are the largest branches on the tree, beginning at the trunk. To begin, choose 2-3 scaffold limbs, but this number may grow to 4-6 over time.  Scaffold limbs should form a radial pattern from the trunk, each facing away in a different direction. Scaffold limbs will house the lateral (smaller outward growing) branches as the tree matures. You want to cut the branches near the trunk, offering only a small collar of growth to prevent decay in the branches.  Make thinning cuts, or cuts that start at the origin of the branch, on trees younger than one year old. Heading cuts are used to remove parts of branches, rather than the entirety of the branch. Avoid doing this in a young tree though, to prevent unwanted suckers and water shoot growth near the top of the tree.


Prune bonsai Japanese maples year-round, but sparingly. Pinch back excessive branch growth. Spread cut paste over pruned areas.

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Bonsai Japanese maples can be cut anytime during the year, but they take longer to heal after cuts. Unless you need to cut back dead or dying branches, limit your pruning to once a season. The best time to prune bonsai Japanese maples is winter, its dormant season. Inspect your bonsai's main branches for new growth, and limit each tree to 1-2 leaf pairs. Pinch away any additional growths to keep the branches healthy and balanced. Because bonsai Japanese maples are small, you can pinch away leaves instead of pruning without damaging the tree. Bonsai Japanese maples are especially prone to diseases after pruning. Apply tree cut paste over any areas that you trim or prune. This will help the bonsai heal faster and protect its wounds from diseases and parasites. You can buy cut paste from many garden centers or plant nurseries.


Prune damaged branches throughout the year. Remove diseased branches. Disinfect the tools after removing diseased branches.

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Branches that are damaged or broken should be pruned off whenever they are noticed throughout the year. Remove the entire broken branch all the way back to the branch collar. There is no need to seal the wound with anything. The tree will quickly form a natural barrier and paint or tree wound dressing can interfere with that process. While tulip magnolias are generally not bothered by common tree diseases, they can occasionally develop cankers.  When cankers or small patches of discolored or oozing bark are present on a branch, the entire branch should be pruned off all the way back to the branch collar. Remove the branch when the weather is dry to help prevent spread of the disease. Disinfect the loppers with household disinfectant or a mixture of 10% bleach in water before and after using them on the diseased branch.  This will prevent the disease from spreading to other branches or indeed other parts of the garden. Always wipe the disinfectant or bleach water off the loppers before using them.


Prune established trees once in the winter. Thin crowded and older branches. Keep the center of the tree relatively open. Cut down unwanted shoots completely. Leave branches that cannot be cut with pruning shears. Remove tree suckers and watersprouts throughout the year.

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After your tree is 3 or 4 years old, it only needs to be pruned once a year. Generally, this will be December if you live in the Northern Hemisphere, or July or August in the Southern Hemisphere. With older trees, you may be able to get away with pruning every other year. You still want to keep an eye out for dead and unproductive branches on years you don't do a full prune. Quince fruit needs lots of sunlight, but the tree tends to grow in a crowded and haphazard way. It's especially important to cut vertical branches in the center of the tree that threaten to destroy your established shape. Older branches that aren't budding or show little growth can be trimmed back completely. Quince trees have a bushy growth pattern that can get messy quickly and destroy the shape and appearance of the tree. After your tree is well-established, the main focus of your pruning should be on clearing the center of the tree and keeping it tidy. Remove vertical branches in the center completely to keep the center of the tree from becoming tangled and overgrown. You can trim ends of branches simply to improve the tree's shape. However, if a branch is crossing another or growing up from the center of the tree, remove it. Generally, most vertical branches can be removed. If they're not crossing another branch yet, they will eventually. Cutting them all the way down keeps them from growing back in a direction you don't want. Unless a branch is dead or diseased, removing a large branch may overly stress your tree and destroy its productivity. If branches with a diameter of more than 2 inches (5.1 cm) are cut, the tree will start growing wood instead of budding and bearing fruit. Ideally, cut branches that are growing in the wrong direction early, before they get too large for you to cut. Tree suckers and waterspouts are fast new growths that appear low on the trunk or sprout from the roots of your tree. Because they cannot bear fruit, they will only sap energy from your tree and reduce its productivity.  Removing them as soon as...


Prune firs and spruces mainly to control width. Cut most or all the way to back to lateral branches in spring. Shear for shaping in late spring.

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Unlike pines, both firs and spruces grow needles all along the lengths of their outer branches. Like pines, though, these evergreens are best left unpruned under most circumstances.  You can prune them annually to control width if bunching with other trees is a problem, or if they’re too close to a structure. Attempting to prune for height is not recommended for the average homeowner. To slow the expansion (especially widthwise) of a spruce or fir, you can trim back the new unbranched tips (new growth emerging from an existing lateral branch) by about two-thirds. To keep outward growth under even firmer control, you can cut off this new growth all the way back to the lateral branches. It’s best to do this pruning in early or mid-spring, when the unbranched tips are just emerging. If you really want to control the overall shape of a fir or spruce you can shear it—that is, cut off the ends of many branches to achieve a desired shape. It’s best to shear in late spring, once the new growth has emerged more fully and is less fragile.  Only try to make minor shape adjustments through shearing, though, as opposed to major reshaping of a fir or spruce. Otherwise, you’ll likely end up with bare or dead spots. You can use handheld hedge clippers for shearing, but make sure to sanitize them with rubbing alcohol before and after using them.


Prune for rejuvenation in early winter. Prune before mid- to late spring. Trim the shape in late summer.

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You can prune a dappled willow as early as the beginning of winter, when the plant has gone dormant. You can prune it once the weather has turned cold for good in your area. You may be able to prune it as early as late November. You can wait to thin or cut back branches to the end of winter, but don't go past early spring. You want to do this type of pruning before new growth begins. If you are just trimming the top of the plant and not removing more than 10 percent of the tree, you can trim in late summer. It's a good time because new growth is over and you can get a good idea of how much growth the plant has had when the leaves are still on it.


Prune fruit trees in the winter. Prune dead or damaged limbs in the summer. Prune young trees right after you plant them. Trim young trees that aren’t growing well. Trim healthy young trees less frequently.

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In the winter, your fruit tree is dormant (and therefore not producing any leaves or fruit).  This makes it easier to target the areas you want to prune and promotes the best production possible.  Most fruit trees are best pruned during winter. Some trees, like orange trees, can be trimmed and pruned in early spring instead of winter. While it's a good idea to routinely prune your fruit tree during the winter, you also want to do some light pruning in the summer if you see dead or damaged branches. This will keep your fruit tree healthy all year round.  Some fruit trees, like cherry and apricot trees, require summer pruning. Don't prune too much during the summer or you could slow down the fruit’s ripening process and expose the fruit to sunburn.  If you're not sure whether your tree needs summer pruning, consult a botanist.  Botanists are specially trained experts who know a lot about plants.  They can help you determine whether or not summer pruning is appropriate for your tree. After planting a new, young tree, trim the main trunk down to between 24 and 30 inches (61 and 76 centimeters) high.  Trim any side growths down to no longer than two buds.  This will equalize the tree’s top with its root system. If you’d like a taller tree that is good for sitting under in summer and fall, make this initial pruning cut at a higher point on the young tree. If you have a young tree that is not growing well, prune it heavily for its first three years.  Heavy pruning during the first few years means a lower fruit yield at first, but in the long run your fruit trees will be strong and productive. If your young tree is growing well, allow it to continue doing so.  Trim it irregularly or not at all.  Irregular pruning does not have a universally constant definition.  It refers instead to the practice of trimming the tree to a lesser extent than you would a normal, mature tree.  You might trim it once each winter, or not at all. There are some physical signs that your young fruit tree is ready for pruning.  Look for...


Prune immediately after flowering. Focus on one stem section at a time. Cut down dead and damaged vines to ground level. Thin out crowded or crossing branches. Shorten vines to keep the jasmine from getting top-heavy. Unravel and retrain vines growing in the wrong direction. Keep your jasmine trim with light pruning throughout the year. Renovate overgrown jasmine by cutting back to the base.

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Give summer jasmine a hard prune annually, in late summer or early autumn. Winter jasmine needs a heavy prune in late spring, immediately after it has finished blooming.  Winter jasmine blooms from June to October in the Southern Hemisphere, and from March to April in the Northern Hemisphere. Summer jasmine blooms from April through June in the Northern Hemisphere, and from November through January in the Southern Hemisphere. Flowers form on the previous year's growth. Pruning immediately after flowering gives that growth time to mature so your plant can flower fully next season. Pruning an older, well-established jasmine vine can be challenging. You may be tempted to yank at vines to pull them apart. If your jasmine is thick, start at the bottom and work up a single stem, clearing excessive growth as you go. Then move to the next stem. If the vines are tangled, cut away the smaller branches to reveal the main vine. Then you can separate it from others and retrain it. Dead, diseased, or severely damaged vines should be removed completely. Remove dead or damaged leaves entirely from their stems, but leave the vertical vine if it remains healthy. Once every other year, identify weaker vines that are thin with fewer blooms. Cut them down to ground level as well. This will encourage the plant to grow stronger vines. Aim to cut back no more than ⅓ of the total vines. Step back and observe the directions of the branches. Look for vines that are growing out away from the supports. Remove weaker stems from the new growth to allow air and light to reach into the vine. This also ensures your vines don't get so heavy that they damage their supports or cause them to collapse.  Branches that cross other branches will rub against each other and damage each other. Remove the branch that isn't growing in the right direction relative to your supports and the way you've trained the vines. Thinning the growth will keep your jasmine vines looking neat and encourage better flowering. Cutting back some of the vines to about 3 feet...


Prune in early spring. Wear thick gardening gloves. Disinfect your pruning shears.

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Bougainvillea can technically be pruned at any time of the year, but the best time to do so for the integrity of the plant is in very early spring, before the plant has begun to produce buds for new flowers. If you wait until the buds have formed, you'll cut off the new growth and limit flower production. If you prune too early, frost can kill the new growth that immediately emerges after pruning.  Bougainvillea bloom in cycles, with months of vigorous blooming followed by rest periods. Pruning before the beginning of a new cycle allows the vine to produce vigorous new growth. The exact month of the year during which bougainvillea should be pruned differs by region. The easiest way to tell whether it's time is to simply check the weather or the Farmer’s Almanac. When the last chance of frost has passed, but before the vine has begun to bud, it's time to prune. Many bougainvillea species have thick, very sharp thorns that can hurt your hands. Also, some species are poisonous and can even give you a rash or inflame your skin. If you're planning a big pruning session, get prepped by donning a pair of thick gloves. You might also want to wear long sleeves in a thick material to protect your wrists and arms.  Some bougainvillea branches have hardly any thorns, but others are completely covered in them. Wiping the pruning shears you're going to use with rubbing alcohol or another disinfectant will keep you from spreading disease. If you trim off a portion of bougainvillea that has been affected by disease, you don't want to spread it to another section by using the same dirty blades. Plan to wipe off the blades of your shears each time you cut off dead bougainvillea.


Prune laceleaf Japanese maples in the same way as upright maples first. Separate the branch layers. Create a veiled top. Replant the maple

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Although laceleaf maples need some additional care, the beginning steps are the same as upright maples. Prune away deadwood and overlapping branches while directing any buds you see in the right direction. Laceleaf maples have complex, twisting branches. Separate the different layers by cutting away any branches that have grown above or below their main branch and have twisted into other main branches. You can also remove any branches that curve at awkward angles to improve the tree's cosmetic look. The top layer of the laceleaf maple should form a protective top that resembles a shell. Avoid cutting the maple tree's top—focus instead on the center and sides to retain the tree's natural shape. if it gets too big. If the laceleaf Japanese maple gets too large for its area, do not cut down the top or excessively prune the sides. Instead, hire a landscaper to transplant your tree somewhere it will have room to grow. Do not transplant trees with a trunk diameter larger than 2 inches (5.1 cm) by yourself. Unless your maple tree is young, you will need to hire a landscaper.


Prune mint back by about one third after flowering. Shape your mint plant. Store your mint for future use. Mint is usually harvested fresh throughout the year as needed.

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Wait to prune mint until after it's fully flowered. Using a pair of shears, cut about one third of the length off the end of each stem. Mint is a relatively hearty, fast growing herb, so do not be afraid to prune--your plant will be fine.  Pruning can actually encourage growth. This is not a destructive thing to do to your mint plant. If you don't have shears or don't like to use them, you can also prune mint with your fingertips. This process will take a bit longer, but is just as effective. With your fingertips, pinch off about one third of the length of the stem. Use your fingernails when pinching the stems to create a clean break. It may be easier to use your fingertips if you're pruning a small amount of mint indoors. You might also want to use scissors or a sharp knife. As you're trimming your mint plant, consider what shape you'd like your plant to be in. You want to shape the mint in a way that grows in the confines of its pot without getting out of control. Mint can grow fast, and in many directions, so you want to trim your plant into a shape that's compatible with the pot.  Shape the plant so it does not have too many leaves and shoots pouring over the plant. Focus on trimming around the plant. Make sure the plant isn't sprawling too far over the side of the pot. After a big harvest, it's important to store your mint properly so that it can be used for months to come. There are various ways to store mint, the most popular being drying mint. There are several methods to dry mint, including baking it on the oven, hanging it to air-dry, and dehydrating it.  You can freeze mint. Pick through your mint leaves and remove any damaged leaves. Pat dry the mint leaves with a towel. Cut up the mint leaves and remove the stems. Place about 1 to 2 teaspoons of leaves in various compartments of an ice cube tray, fill with water, and place in the freezer. Once the cubes are frozen, place them in an airtight container or bag and leave them in the freezer. Frozen mint will keep for three months. You can also vacuum...


Prune mock orange shrubs after they’ve finished flowering. Start by removing dead, damaged, or twiggy shoots. Trim about one-fifth to one-third of the canes to the ground. Train your shrub by thinning the remaining canes.

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The flowers of mock orange shrubs bloom on old wood, or the growth that develops in the summer, fall, and spring prior to flowering. Pruning your shrubs immediately after their flowers fade will maximize their growing time, resulting in more blooms next growing season.  Mock orange shrubs finish blooming by late spring. If you prune in the early spring before your shrubs bloom, you'll cut off the buds that will grow into flowers. There’s usually no need to prune mock orange shrubs until their third or fourth year. Look for stems without leaves, that are broken, or that have any blemishes or unusual growths. Trim dead or twiggy shoots that sprout from the ground to the crown, or just above ground level. If they grow from another branch, clip them to their point of origin on the main branch.  Remember to clip stems at a 45-degree angle about 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) from the main branch. For dead or twiggy shoots that sprout from the ground, trim them about 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) from where they emerge from the ground. Dead or damaged stems might harbor disease, so sanitize your shears after clipping them. Find the tallest canes, or the main branches that grow from the ground. Trace the tallest one down to the crown, then use your loppers to cut it back to ground level. Pull the pruned cane out from the shrub, then cut it up so it fits in a lawn bag or in your compost heap.  Prune around 20 to 30% of the canes to control the shrub’s growth and to give the interior leaves access to sunlight. Tying ribbons around the canes you want to cut can help you prune the shrub evenly. After removing the tallest canes, check the top of the shrub for uneven shoots, or stems that are taller than the surrounding foliage. Shape the shrub by clipping the tallest remaining stems just above the point where another shoot sprouts from the branch. This will encourage horizontal growth and result in a fuller, more attractive shrub.  For instance, suppose you want to remove about 6 in (15 cm) of growth at the top of a...


Prune old wood hydrangeas in the early- to mid-summer. Wait until fall to prune new wood hydrangeas. Avoid trimming more than one-third of the plant at one time. Prune faded or wilting flowers using pruning shears. Remove the brown, dead spots with pruning shears. Trim weak branches and crossed branches using pruning shears.

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Old wood hydrangeas reach peak blooming in the summer. Pruning too early in the growing season will encourage your hydrangea to keep blooming. This means you would have to prune several times in the same season.  Be sure to prune before late summer. The buds that will bloom next year form in late summer or early fall, so pruning late will result in no blooms the following year. If you miss the window, wait until next year. Otherwise, you risk removing the buds that will bloom next year. New wood hydrangeas bloom later than old wood hydrangeas because the younger stems take longer to reach blossoming. Their new buds will form in the winter, so don't prune later than the fall. This will revitalize your plant, though you can trim less depending on your preferences. If you prune too much, it can change the shape of your hydrangeas. Hydrangeas will often grow back to their regular size, and over-trimming can result in uncontrolled growth. Dull flowers can make your plant look blah, but pruning them away will allow for new growth. When you cut away old blooms, you encourage your plant to produce more blooms. Faded or wilting flowers can be pruned at any time. Your plant will look better, and new growth will eventually emerge, either in this season or the next blooming season. You can prune back brown, dead spots during blooming season if you see them. This will keep your plant blooming. This will improve the look of your plant and ensure hardier growth during the next blooming season. Cut the branches where they meet another branch.


Prune plants that outgrow the tank so that they won’t decompose.  weekly to maintain the health of your tank. Add fertilizer to speed up the growth and keep plants healthy. Avoid letting plants that are not fully submerged dry out.

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Most plants grow quickly, so pruning will be a necessity. If the plant outgrows the tank, the part of the plant outside the cage will die. Use sharp scissors to carefully cut away the excess plant. As an alternative, you could choose slow-growing plants. th of your tank. Plants do not need water changes as frequently as fish do, but regular changes will keep your aquarium healthy. First, scrape any algae from the sides of your tank. Use a siphon to remove 10 to 15% of your water, paying special attention to the gravel and area around your aquarium fixtures. Replace the water you removed with fresh, dechlorinated water.  When using your siphon, don’t use it in the plant bed or you could accidentally kill your plants. Instead, keep it above the substrate. Shrimp and catfish both feed on algae, so they could make a good addition to your tank, depending on the other fish you’ve chosen.  This is also called changing your water. Some people like to clean the entire tank every few months, but this can upset your tank’s ecosystem. It’s better to use filters and maintain a clean tank. Your freshwater aquarium does not need fertilizer, especially if you have fish, which help fertilize the plants with their waste. However, fertilizer can help your plants grow better and can be worth the extra effort. There are several ways to fertilize your aquarium plants:  You can add fluorite directly into the substrate, which provides iron and nutrients for the plants. Root tabs are placed near the roots of the plants that need to be anchored beneath the substrate. They will continually fertilize your plants for 2 to 3 months. If you prefer a liquid fertilizer, you can add it to your tank once or twice a week. Liquid fertilizer is great for plants that are not rooted in the substrate, such as those tied to rocks.  A CO2 pump provides the plants with more CO2, which they absorb and convert to oxygen. If you have a high-light tank, it’s good to include more CO2 because light speeds up photosynthesis, meaning that your plants will...