Gather your materials. Wash your hands thoroughly before and after suctioning. Lay the infant on her back. Drop three to four drops of saline solution into one of the infant's nostrils. Squeeze all of the air out of the bulb syringe. Place the tip of the bulb syringe into your child’s nostril. Remove the bulb from your infant’s nose. Repeat the process with the other nostril. Clean the bulb syringe after use. Don't overdo it.

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Suctioning the mucus out of your infant’s nose will make it easier for him to breathe and to eat. The best time to suction your infant’s nose is before feeding him, as this will help him suck and eat. To suction your child’s nose using a bulb syringe, you will need:  Saline or prescription respiratory nose drops. Ask your pediatrician for a prescription. A clean bulb syringe Soft tissues A blanket (optional) Your hands have bacteria on them and you don't want to introduce this into your child's nose and mouth. To wash your hands properly:  Wet your hands with warm water. Lather your hands by rubbing them together with soap. Wash the backs of your hands, between your fingers and under your nails. Scrub your hands for 20 seconds. If you need a timer, hum the tune of "Happy Birthday" two times. Rinse your hands under clean, running water. Dry your hands with a paper towel. The child's face should be facing the ceiling.  You can have someone hold the infant in position gently. If you don't have assistance, swaddle the infant tightly in a blanket. Swaddling the infant with her arms at her sides will help to keep her still. Keep in mind he might not like this and may squirm. Try and hold the infant still for about 10 seconds, with assistance or a swaddle. The saline will help to loosen any mucus clogging his nasal passages.  You can make your own saline solution at home, but this is not recommended, especially not for an infant. If you don't get the proportions just right, the saline can be very drying. In addition, you have to make sure you have distilled, sanitized water to mix the solution. Instead, choose one of the many commercially available saline solutions made specifically for infants. These are inexpensive and are made especially for this purpose. Use your thumb and first two fingers to apply pressure to the bulb syringe. Let it gently sit in your child’s nostril. Slowly release your thumb, letting the air come back into the bulb syringe.  The suction will pull the mucus out of your child's nose and into...


Gather your materials. Wrap the green material around your waist. Pin the garment in place from the heel to the waist. Sew the garment together from the heels to the waist.

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To make Ariel’s tail you’ll need 1 large piece of green fabric that has some stretch to it. Spandex is a good choice. Check out material intended for dancewear - you can find some really fun material, like a deep green fabric covered in green sequins and other sparkly things that would be great for Ariel. You’ll also need a sewing machine, green thread and scissors. Adjust it until you have the ideal fit for you. Make sure that, once wrapped around your waist, the material extends beyond your feet by about 6 inches. Pull it close to your legs all the way down, stopping at your heels. You can stop at your calves rather than your heels if you want a costume that's a bit easier to move around in. Before pinning it, make sure it fits you exactly how you want it to. You now have the foundation of the tail there. The green material will drift out in front of your feet about 6 inches, with the material gathered in at the heels in the back, creating a tail fin effect. You can keep the material on while you have a friend hand sew it all the way up, or you can take it off and use a sewing machine to stitch it together.


Gather your materials: Combine lemon juice, sugar, and honey in a bowl. Make sure the mixture is thick enough. Go easy on the lemon juice. Wash your face with a gentle cleanser. Apply the mixture to your face with your fingers. Avoid putting the mixture on broken skin. Leave on for 10 minutes. Rinse your face with cool water. Apply a moisturizer to your face and neck.

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Freshly squeezed lemon juice Brown sugar Honey (organic is recommended) Whisk How much you use will depend on your own personal preferences. Try starting with a quarter cup of brown sugar and then adding lemon juice and honey to it until it reaches your desired consistency. If it’s not thick enough it will drip down your skin, into your eyes and on to your clothing and furniture. Lemon juice can dry out and irritate your skin. If the scrub contained olive oil, you could use more lemon juice, but because this one doesn’t, stick to just a few drops of lemon juice. Use a gentle cleanser to wash your face with lukewarm water, then pat your face dry with a clean, dry washcloth. Work the sugar-honey mixture on to your face with your finger tips in gentle circular motions. Avoid your eyes and mouth while applying. If you have any cuts or open acne on your face, avoid applying the scrub to those areas as the lemon juice will sting them. In addition, the friction from applying the scrub may make your acne worse. Let the solution sit on your face for 10 minutes. During this time, the mixture should help tighten your pores and even your skin tone (lemon), remove dead skin and clean your pores (sugar), and prevent acne (honey). Rinse your face with cool water until the scrub is completely gone, and then pat your face dry with a clean, dry washcloth. You should notice that your skin has a slight glow and feels soft. Seal in the moisturizing effects of the scrub with your favourite moisturizer.


Gather your materials: Mix the baking soda, sugar and water together. Wash your face with a gentle cleanser. Apply the mixture to your face. Allow the mixture to remain on your face for 3 to 5 minutes. Rinse your face with warm water. Pat your face dry with a clean, dry washcloth. Repeat as needed. Do not apply the mixture to broken skin or squeezed pimples.

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1 tbsp. baking soda 1 tbsp. granulated sugar 2 tbsp. water Ensure that the three ingredients are mixed well so that they form a smooth, clump-free paste. Doing this will remove any dirt and buildup before you exfoliate. Be sure to pat your face dry gently with a clean, dry washcloth before applying the sugar-baking soda mixture. Use your fingers to gently massage the mixture into your face. It’s important to be gentle otherwise you may cause the skin of your face to become irritated, which could lead to breakouts. Focus on areas where you have a lot of blackheads (usually around your nose and chin), as this scrub is particularly good at targeting blackheads. You may want to sit down and relax. The more you move around, the more likely the mixture is to come off your face and get on your clothes/furniture. Ensure that you’ve rinsed it thoroughly and that there is no residue left on your face. Be sure to gently pat your face dry. Scrubbing it with a washcloth will only cause irritation, and could lead to breakouts. Most experts recommend against exfoliating more than twice a week. If you have a lot of blackheads, you can just apply this mixture to the areas where you have blackheads.  If you aren’t applying the mixture to your whole face, you can probably get away with applying it to your face more than twice a week. Just be sure to stop using it if you notice any irritation. Baking soda is known to dry out the skin, so you’ll definitely not want to overdo it. Applying baking soda to broken skin and squeezed pimples will only make them worse, so avoid these areas.


Gather your materials: Screw a hook into the ceiling above your couch. Tie clear fishing line around the spider. Drape the fishing line over the hook. Drop the spider.

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10 to 20 feet of clear fishing line (more if you have high ceilings) 1 hook 1 large but realistic fake spider (you can also go big and hairy if you want!) If you’re planning to prank someone who comes over often, screw the hook above where they normally sit. Be sure the fishing line is securely around the spider and that you've  tied a strong knot. You don’t want the spider falling off the line! To make sure you have enough line, cut it after you know where you’ll be standing when you pull it.  You may want to leave the line near a light or the TV instead of where you’re sitting on the couch if you think that your friend might sit close enough to you on the couch that he/she can see you pulling the fishing line. The best setup is to be able to control the spider from behind the couch or curtain, when your friend isn’t even aware you’re in the room. Once your friend is sitting down on the couch, find a way to drop the spider on to him/her without him/her noticing you pulling on the fishing line.  Exactly how you do this will depend on the layout of your room. You may need to get creative! If you live with other people, ask them to tell your friend you’ll be there in a minute, and to have a seat. Then, once they’ve sat down, you can drop the spider on them from your hiding place.


Gather your network hardware. Set up your router. Connect your modem to your router (if necessary). Connect your switch to your router (if necessary). Connect your computers to open LAN ports. Setup one PC as a DHCP server if you're just using a switch. Verify the network connection on each computer. Set up file and printer sharing.

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To create a LAN, you'll need a router or switch, which will act as the hub of your network. These devices route information to the correct computers.  A router will automatically handle assigning IP addresses to each device on the network, and is necessary if you intend to share your internet connection with all the connected devices. It is highly recommended that you build your network with a router, even if you're not sharing an internet connection. A network switch is like a simpler version of a router. It will allow connected devices to talk to each other, but will not automatically assign IP addresses and will not share an internet connection. Switches are best used to expand the number of LAN ports available on the network, as they can be connected to the router. You don't need to do much to set up a router for a basic LAN. Just plug it into a power source, preferably close to your modem if you plan on sharing the internet connection through it. If you're sharing the internet connection from your modem, connect the modem to the WAN/INTERNET port on the router. This is usually a different color from the other ports. If you're using a switch to expand the number of ports available on the router, plug an Ethernet cable into any LAN port on the router and any LAN port on the switch. This will expand the network to the rest of the LAN ports on the switch. Use Ethernet cables to connect each computer to an open LAN port on your router or switch. It doesn't matter what order the ports are connected in. Ethernet cables cannot reliably transfer data at lengths larger than 100m (328 ft). If you're only using a switch as your network hub, setting up one computer as a DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol) server will allow all of the connected computers to easily obtain IP addresses.  You can quickly create a DHCP server on one of your computers by installing a third-party utility. The rest of the computers on the network will obtain IP addresses automatically once the server is running, as long as they are...


Gather your pompoms. Glue the pompoms together to make a rope. Glue googly eyes onto the first pompom. Add some antenna. Turn the caterpillar into a puppet, if desired.

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They are all the same color, or you can use different colors. You can have them all be the same size, or you can use one large pompom for the head. To make a "very hungry caterpillar," try different shades of green for the body and a large red pompom for the head.  For a regular caterpillar, use 7 pompoms.  For a puppet caterpillar, use 11 pompoms. You can glue the pompoms together with hot glue or glue dots. You can also use fabric glue or tacky glue, but you will need to wait for the glue to dry. An older child thread a needle with embroidery thread, then string the pom poms onto the thread. Be sure to knot the thread securely at both ends. You can use hot glue, tacky glue, or fabric glue. If you are using tacky glue, hold the eyes in place for about 30 seconds to help them stick. Let the glue dry before moving on. Cut two short pieces of pipe cleaner. Glue each piece to the top of the caterpillar's head. You can have them stick straight up, or make them angle outward like a V. Hot glue will work the best, but you can use fabric glue or tacky glue. Let the glue dry before moving on. An older child can thread a needle, then pull two short pieces of colored embroidery thread up through the bottom of the caterpillar's head. Cut two long pieces of fishing line. Tie one string to the third pompom and the other string to the seventh pompom. Next, tie both strings to a short stick or dowel. Tilt the stick up and down, like a seesaw, to make the caterpillar move.


Gather your rollers. Set the hair that frames your face. Roll the top and middle layers of your hair. Roll the bottom layer of your hair. Allow your waves to set. Remove the rollers and style your hair.

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To create loose face framing waves, you will need four different sizes of foam rollers. Using different sized rollers will also create the illusion of layers in your hair.   If your foam rollers are color coordinated by size, you will need a set of pink (largest), green, yellow, and blue (smallest). If your foam your are not color coordinated by size, use four different sized rollers varying in diameter from 1 ½ inches to ¼ inch. To achieve loose, soft face framing waves, use the largest sized rollers on the hair the surrounds your face.  Grab a 1 to ½ inch section of hair. Place the roller at the end of the strand. Wind the roller up towards your face. Once the roller reaches your scalp, clip the roller to secure it in place. Repeat this process on the rest of the hair the frames your face. Use a combination of the two smallest sized rollers (yellow and blue) to set the top two layers of your hair. Using this combination of smaller rollers will produce tighter curls while adding texture and dimension to your hair.  Grab ½ inch to ¼ inch section of hair from your top layer. Unclip the roller and place it at the end of the section of hair. Wind the roller away from your face. Once you have reached your scalp, clip the roller to secure it in place. Repeat this process on the middle layer of your hair. When setting the bottom layer of your hair, use the second largest size of roller. This will add additional volume and texture to your locks.  Grab a 1 inch to ¾ inch section of hair from the bottom layer. Unclip the roller and place it at the end of the section of hair. Wind the roller away from your face. Clip the roller in place once it reaches your scalp. After putting in all of the rollers, let your waves set.  If you wet set your hair, allow your hair to air dry.  If you put the rollers into your dry hair, leave them in for 3 to 5 hours. Once your curls have set, unclip and remove the rollers one at a time. Separate your locks by combing through your waves with your fingers. Finish your wavy do with a spritz...


Gather your smoothie making supplies. Add ingredients to the blender. Blend Store extra smoothie for later.

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This plain peanut butter smoothie recipe can be easily modified. For example, you could easily add other fruits, like strawberry or concord grapes, which are often used in jellies. This could cause your smoothie to taste like a peanut butter and jelly sandwich! But before you do, make sure the blender is unplugged to prevent accidentally pressing a button before its lid is on and making a mess. Once the ingredients are inside your blender, seal the top firmly in place and plug it in.  Especially when making a double batch, try not to pack ingredients too densely into your blender. Over packing a blender can tax its motor and cause it to wear out more quickly, or could create more resistance than your blender can handle, in which case your blender may not start. your smoothie. Depending on your blender, there may be several settings to choose from. For making a smoothie, use the "Blend" button. Try to run your blender in short intervals, as this will help keep its motor from burning out. Blend until the mixture is a smooth consistency. If your blender is too densely packed and the blades won't turn and blend, unplug it and use a spoon to remove some of the contents. Then reseal it, plug it in, and try again. Store your smoothie in an airtight container with as little air in the container as possible. The air remaining in your container will interact with the nutrients in the smoothie, causing it to break down faster. Generally, you can expect most smoothies to stay good for 12 hours to a day after being prepared, so long as they are adequately sealed and stored in the refrigerator.


Gather your source equipment. Use a reliable computer. Get a microphone and audio console. Obtain other audio equipment. Acquire a Part 15 Transmitter. Use a good antenna.

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Your source equipment includes a CD player, cassette player, record player, or other form of media players. You aren’t required to have this equipment available, but it will benefit you if you are a music based station. Consider getting used audio equipment from craigslist or other music posting websites. There are many benefits to having a computer for your radio station and studio. You can generate the bulk of your station's broadcast with only a computer playing music, miscellaneous sounds, and even your own voice. Many radio stations record shows on computers and play them at a selected time over the airways.  If you are first starting out, a computer will cut down on a lot of your audio costs. You can upload your radio show as a podcast or as an internet radio station with a computer. Unless you plan to play music alone, you should invest in at least one microphone, if not two. You will also need an audio mixer to switch between multiple audio outputs like a turntable, microphone, and computer. For a good quality microphones invest in a Sennheiser MD 421 or a Shure SH 55.  There are options if you don’t want to deal with audio equipment. You can invest in a USB microphone that goes directly into your computer. These mics have been continuing to grow and offer a range in quality. Consider getting help from a tech-savvy friend if you’re beginning to feel overwhelmed. Asides from the microphones and mixing boards, you’ll need cables to attach everything together. Most transmitters take an ⅛” jack (headphone jack), so you’ll need to use the right converters for your mixer.  Other cables that might help you are XLR cables (for microphones) and RCA cables (for external audio players).  If you went with the USB microphone, you don’t need to worry about this step. You’ll also need one or two sets of headphones depending on how many people plan to talk. For future endeavors, you should have two headphones or more. If you use multiple headphones, you will also need a headphone splitter. Search through the internet...


Gather your supplies for making the paper mobile. Cut out circles in your paper. Position the circles. Place your remaining circles until you have used them all. Attach your yarn or thread to the circles. Paint your embroidery hoop. Attach the yarn to your hoop and hang the circles. Hang your mobile.

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For this type of mobile you will need different colors of construction paper or card stock, an embroidery hoop, yarn or thread, and hot glue or tacky glue. Your mobile will be more secure if you use a sewing machine instead of glue, but you can use glue for the sake of simplicity. You can cut any shape you choose, but circles are the easiest. If you want an ombre or multi-colored paper mobile, use five different colors and cut them as follows:  Color #1: twenty-two, two inch circles Color #2: seven, two inch circles, and 11, 1.6 inch circles Color #3: 19, 1.6 inch circles Color #4: 11, 1.6 inch circles, and nine, 1.3 inch circles Color #5: 22, 1.3 inch circles Lay out the circles on the ground, in the order that you want them. To use the above circle numbers and colors, create 11 columns of circles.  You will then lay the colored circles in rows across the columns until you have used all of the circles. Your columns will not be an even length, but this will make your mobile look more fun.  First, lay the color #1 circles in two rows with an inch between each row. You will have two rows of the same color with 11 circles in each row and two circles in each column. On the third row, you will start by laying your color #2 circles, alternating between sizes. In your first column, lay one of the two-inch circles. In the second column, lay a 1.6 inch circle and underneath that in a fourth row lay your two inch circle. In the next column, lay the two-inch circle, and in the fourth column, repeat the second column (lay a 1.6 inch circle and below that, lay a two-inch circle). Continue to alternate these until you have used all of that color. For the third color, you can begin to place the circles out randomly. For example, on column one you can use two circles, on column two you can use two circles, and then on column three you can use one circle. Place the circles in these columns with one inch separating them, but have fun in placing them randomly. There doesn't have to be a specific order, and it's okay if on one...


Gather your supplies.

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To make a canvas on a wood frame, you will need the following supplies. You can find these supplies at your local art store.  A long piece of art canvas. You should get a canvas that is long enough to create your ideal canvas size. Four stretcher bars. These are wooden bars that have notches on one end. You should get two stretcher bars that are the ideal width you want for the canvas and two stretcher bars that are the ideal height you want for the canvas, for example, 16 x 24 or 11 x 15. A hammer. A staple gun. A pair of scissors. Acrylic based gesso. A paintbrush. Sandpaper. Palette paper.


To create the tortillon, you will need a blank piece of copy paper (recommended size A4) a ruler, a pencil and a pair of scissors. You will be able to create two usable tortillons for every one piece of copy paper you prepare. A4 paper is 210mm wide and 297mm long (approximately 8 1/4 x 11 3/4 inches.)


You might have to spend a little money up front to get everything you need for a gorgeous at-home manicure. Investing in tools and products that will last months or years will definitely save you money in the long run. Have everything in one place before you get to work on your nails. Here's what you need:  Nail polish remover Cotton balls Cuticle pusher or orange stick Nail trimmers Nail buffer Nail file Cuticle oil or hand cream Base coat Nail color Top coat


To make the heart shaped nail tip, you will need the following materials: a nail file, a clear base coat, nail polish in a deep red color, a base polish in a neutral color and a top coat in a clear color.  For your neutral color, select a tan or light pink polish. Skip the neutral color and opt for a more fun contrasting color, like a light blue or hot pink.


To make a tri-corner pirate hat, you will need the following:  A pencil Twist ties Scissors Glue A bowl about the size of your head A ruler or other straight edge Brown wrapping paper or a grocery bag


To create this manicure, you’ll need the following supplies: a top coat, a base coat, black nail polish, painter’s tape, a small paintbrush, nail polish remover and a hole puncher that creates a heart shape.  Heart shaped hole punchers can be purchased online or in craft stores. Make sure to remove any polish that is currently on your nails before beginning this manicure.


Gather your supplies. Anchor the wrist. Wrap across the back of the hand and fingers. Wrap the wrist and repeat the first loop. Attach the end of the bandage to the diagonal strip across your palm. Wrap the bandage around your thumb from one diagonal strip to the other. Check the circulation of the affected thumb. Secure the bandage at the wrist.

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Since you will now need to wrap your own thumb, hold the injured hand with the palm facing upward. Use a crepe bandage, or at most an ACE bandage (which can be purchased at a pharmacy), and scissors. Put the end of the bandage against the underside of the wrist of the injured hand, at the hollow where you would take your pulse. Then wrap the back of your hand and your pinkie finger with the other end of the bandage. Pull the bandage over the thumb using your uninjured hand. You can also try adhesive sports tape, but this may irritate the skin and make it harder to remove. Start by wrapping the wrist in a comfortable, not too tight loop, going around the wrist two times. Make sure you are not cutting off your circulation with the anchor. Your hand and/or fingers will tingle, feel cooler to the touch and start to turn blue if the wrap is too tight. Start with the end of the bandage at the inside of your wrist, at the hollow where you would take a pulse. From that point, wrap the bandage around the heel of your thumb and across the back of your hand and diagonally across toward the tip of your pinky finger. Wrap around all four fingers, then bring the bandage back behind the fingers and cross it diagonally along the back of the hand. The wrap should end at the side of the hand below the pinkie finger. Wrap the bandage around the wrist again and then make the same loop across the back of the hand to the pinky, around the fingers, and back down across the back of the hand again. Wrap the bandage around thumb and anchor it in place to the diagonal strip of bandage going across the back of your hand. Do not wrap it so tightly that it begins to cut off circulation. Move the bandage slightly up your thumb with each wrap, overlapping the bandage. The farther up your thumb you wrap, the greater the support. When the thumb is sufficiently wrapped, cross the bandage over the back of the hand and down to the wrist. You can cut off any excess wrap. You can do this by pinching the nail on your thumb for two seconds. Look at...


Gather your supplies. Choose the season. Select the right location. Prepare the soil. Separate the bulbs. Plant the bulbs. Top with mulch. Water the bulbs.

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To plant shallots, you'll need at least one set of shallots for planting, a space to plant them, and some gardening tools and equipment, such as:  Soil Well-decomposed compost Spade or shovel You can plant shallots in either fall or spring, but you'll get an earlier crop if you plant in fall. Also, some say that you'll get larger and better tasting shallots if you put them through vernalization.  Vernalization is the process of exposing a seed or whole plant to cold temperatures in order to promote growth.  To plant in fall, pick a date that’s after the first frost and before the cold weather. In spring, aim for early in the season, in March or April. Shallots need full sun, well-draining soil, and an area that’s as free of weeds as possible. Raised beds are ideal for shallots, especially if your ground is particularly wet. Soils that drain well include:  Sand Silt Loam You can help your shallots by mixing the soil in the seedbed with compost that’s very highly decomposed. Add one bucketful of compost per square meter (1.1 by 1.1 yards).  Avoid adding manure to the soil, as it’s too high in nitrogen. The ideal pH for shallot soil is between 6.2 and 6.8. Like garlic, shallots grow in heads that contain multiple bulbs. If your shallots aren't in separate bulbs, peel each one away from the main head. Each bulb will grow a new shallot head that contains several bulbs, or cloves. To plant shallots, space the bulbs out so there's about two to six inches (five to 15 cm) between each bulb. Push each bulb into the soil with the roots facing down. Keep pushing until the shallot is about three-quarters buried in the soil. Alternatively, you can also plant shallot seeds instead of bulbs. Plant the seeds at the same distance, and bury each seed about 0.5 inches (1 cm) deep. Plants seeds in spring rather than fall. For fall plantings, cover the top of the shallots with straw, hay, leaves, or wood chips to help protect them from the cold and frost over the winter. For the best results, use a good six inches (15 cm) of...


Gather your supplies. Chop the apples. Combine the sauce ingredients. Add the apples and vanilla. Let it cool. Serve over pancakes.

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To make this apple and cinnamon pancake topping (which also functions as an apple pie filling or all-purpose dessert topping), you’ll need your apples, a sharp knife, and a large saucepan. After coring and peeling the apples, cut them into small cubes. Set them aside as you prepare the sauce. Add the water, lemon juice, spices, sugar, maple syrup, and cornstarch to the saucepan. Heat on medium heat, stirring frequently. Once the sauce starts to bubble and thicken, continue stirring for another two minutes. Turn the heat to low and stir to combine. Cover the saucepan and let the mixture cook on low for about 10 minutes, until the apples are soft. Once the apples are soft, remove the filling from the heat and allow it to cool for a few minutes. It doesn’t have to be room temperature, but you don’t want to burn any mouths! Place one to two pancakes on a plate and cover each one with a few dollops of the apple cinnamon topping. Add a swirl of whipped cream for an extra special treat. Once it’s cooled to room temperature, you can store the leftover apple topping in an air-tight container in the fridge.


Gather your supplies. Clean your miniature. Remove mold lines. Assemble.

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First you need a comfortable and well lit work area. You also should have hobby knives, a small file set, fingernail filing boards, super glue, a clean pot of water, and a paint set. When miniatures are cast a release agent is applied to them. This is an oily or powdery substance that needs to be removed before you start painting. Wash with warm soapy water to clean off any mold release on the model. Let the miniature dry. Now using the hobby knife, trim away any mold flash. That's the extra material around the model that will make a thin line sticking to the miniature horizontally.  When the two halves of the miniature are connected in the casting process, this line is often left behind. You should use your knife to remove any other irregularities on the miniature at this point. Oftentimes the extremities have points or bubbles that shouldn’t be there. Use short strokes of the knife to remove the mold lines. Try not to damage the miniature, just swipe off any excess material or bubbles. The irregularities should be pretty obvious. Some miniatures have extra parts that need to be assembled, such as a sword or shield. This can be the hardest part. Small parts like hands, small weapons, antennas and other pieces can be glued with a simple tube of superglue. Larger metal pieces may need to be pinned. Pinning requires drilling a hole in each end of the hand or wherever you are attaching the metal piece. Then you need to string a small piece of hard wire through the hole and connect the wire to the metal piece. Then glue together everything with a superglue or a two part epoxy for stronger hold.


Gather your supplies. Clear the walls. Clear the room. Cover everything with plastic.

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For this project, you'll need some specialized equipment that’s designed for removing wallpaper from drywall, plus some basic wallpaper-removing tools, and protective gear for the room. You will need:  Plastic covers or tarps Painter’s tape Scoring tool Chemical wallpaper stripper Wallpaper removing fabric sheets Compression sprayer or spray bottle Sponge Bucket Hot water Ladder or chair Scraper You can't take wallpaper off the walls if they're full of pictures and decorations, so you need to remove it all. This includes anything that’s attached to the wall, such as:  Pictures Furniture Sconces and lights Televisions Mounts Switch plates Vents Hardware like screws and nails Removing wallpaper is messy business, and the best way to protect furniture, rugs, and other décor is by removing it from the room before you start. Take out beds, sofas, chairs, shelves, decorations, area rugs, and everything else that’s in the room. Store them in another room until the wallpaper has been removed and the room redecorated. If you cannot remove certain objects, move them to the center of the room to protect them and to give yourself more room to work. Once you’ve removed everything you can from the room, cover whatever remains with tarps or plastic sheets. Cover the floors completely to protect carpet, tile, and hardwood. Tape the edges of the plastic sheets to the baseboards so water and paste don’t leak onto the floor or soak the baseboards. If there's any furniture left in the center of the room, cover it with plastic as well.


Gather your supplies. Cut the ends off of your railing. Install the brackets. Place the railing on top of the brackets. Install the returns.

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In addition to the handrail, you will need at least two sets of brackets and screws. You will also need a drill to complete the installation, and a saw if you intend to cut your own returns.  Remember that for a wall-mounted installation, the handrail should be 8 inches longer than your measurements, to account for the 4-inch returns you'll cut off on either end. If you buy a ready-made handrail, it will likely come with brackets and screws, too. If not, purchase brackets intended for a handrail installation. Use a saw to cut the ends (approximately 4 inches from each end) from the railing at a 45-degree angle. Once you've installed the handrail, the returns will be attached to either end to serve as hand grips.  Reverse the placement of the cuts so that the pieces will be able to face the wall at the top and bottom of the rail. You may want to ask an employee at the hardware store to cut the returns for you if you aren't handy with a saw. Line up the brackets and use a drill to mount them to the wall Repeat until all brackets are securely installed. Be sure that the brackets are vertically plumb before drilling them into place.  It's important to make sure that the brackets are installed securely. If they seem loose in the wall, the handrail may not be sturdy enough to support people's weight as they use it. You may want to purchase extra brackets to ensure that the handrail will be held securely in place. Hold the railing in position against the wall along the length of the chalk line. Secure the handrail into its position on the brackets by placing screws into the holes drilled on the railing’s underside.  Loosely-secured railings are a serious hazard issue, so be sure that the rail can bear the weight that will be imposed on it daily. If the railing is loose, reinforce the railing from below by applying a metal corner bracket there. Place the angled edge of the return against the end of the rail. The flat end of the return should rest against the wall, forming a hand grip. Use wood glue and apply it to...


Gather your supplies. Cut two long pieces of ribbon.

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The main base of your wings will be composed of paper plates. You'll need a pack of plates or around 20 plates. It's a good idea to have a couple extra plates around in case you make a mistake. You can use whatever color you want. You can also use plastic plates. You'll additionally need:  A marker or pencil Scissors Ribbon Glue (Hot glue gun or crafting glue) Each piece should be around 23 inches (58 cm), or however long they need to be to slip comfortably over the wearer's arms and shoulders. Use a gold ribbon or an ornate ribbon to add to the presentation.


Gather your supplies. Cut your paper into shapes. Consider arranging your design on the table in front of you before you glue it down onto the box. Set the box down on its side in front of you. Use a foam brush to apply a thin layer of Mod Podge to a small patch on the box. Press the paper down onto the glue. Let the glue dry before working on another side of the box. Cover the entire box with another thin layer of Mod Podge. Allow the box to dry completely before putting anything inside it.

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Decoupage is a great way to create a unique, layered look. It is ideal for those who want a vintage or shabby-chic look to their box. Here's what you'll need:  Plain gift box Solid colored or patterned paper Scissors Mod Podge or decoupage glue Foam brush If your paper has designs on it, such as butterflies, flowers, or birds, then cut around the designs. If your paper is solid colored, you can cut your own shapes, such as hearts and stars. This will allow you to fix any mistakes. It will also allow you to experiment with different shapes and layering until you get the look you want. Once you put the paper down onto the Mod Podge, it will be difficult to move it without ruining it. You will be working on one side of the box at a time so that your work surface does not get all sticky. If your box comes with a lid, take the lid off and work on it separately. You will be working in small areas at a time so that the Mod Podge does not dry out before you get to it. If you can't find any Mod Podge or decoupage glue, you can make your own by mixing one part white school glue with one part water. You can place the shapes down individually, or overlap them to create new designs. For example, you can paste a flower shape down onto some leaf shapes. If you are overlapping shapes, be sure to coat the bottom shape with Mod Podge so that the top shape will stick. Once the glue dries, flip or rotate the box and continue decoupaging pieces of paper onto it. This will help seal in your work. You can use the same finish that you were using before (such as gloss, matte, or satin). You can also try using a glittery one for some extra sparkle. If you put the lid on too soon, it will get stuck to the box, and the receiver will have a hard time opening it.


Gather your supplies. Cut your ribbon. Tie the ribbon around the mobile. Tie the ribbon to hang your mobile. Hang your mobile.

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For this mobile you will need about 10 to 20 spools of ribbon and an embroidery hoop. You can choose to use different colors of ribbon, or you can use one or two colors, depending on the variety you desire for your mobile. Basically, you'll need enough ribbon so that you have enough to cover the circumference of your mobile, with each ribbon being doubled up. You will use your ribbon to cover the entire circumference of your embroidery hoop. Each piece of ribbon needs to be long enough to double over and knot around the embroidery hoop. So if you want your ribbons to be a foot in length, then you'll want to cut your length of ribbon to be about 26 inches in length. Your ribbon might look better if you cut different lengths, so you can vary each length of ribbon by one or two inches. To figure out how much ribbon you will need, place your embroidery hoop on the floor. Then, take a piece of ribbon and place it over the hoop. Do this until you have covered the entire hoop with ribbon. Then, you'll know how much ribbon to cut for your mobile. With each piece of ribbon you cut, double it over, so that both ends meet each other. Then, place the folded end over your embroidery hoop. Take the rest of the ribbon and stick it through the loop of the fold, creating a full circle around your hoop. Pull tight, and your ribbon should create a knot around your embroidery hoop. It's best if you use relatively thin ribbon here, because you will be able to create tighter knots. If your ribbon is too thick, your knot won't stay secure and you may have to glue the ribbon to the hoop. Take two pieces of ribbon, about three feet long, and tie each end of the ribbon to the hoop. Tie one end of the ribbon to one side of the hoop, and tie the other end to the opposite side, exactly across from the previous end. Then, take your second ribbon and tie one end in between the other two ends, exactly in the middle. Then tie the other end across from the previous end. Once you are done tying you should have your ribbons evenly spaced on...


Gather your supplies. Decorate the jar. Cut out strips of paper. Glue felt balls to each piece of paper.

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In this twist on the classic advent calendar, each day is stuffed into a jar. To find the gift you have to pull the day out of the jar, and read the clue. Save a jar from your kitchen for this project. Gather the following materials:  An empty jar Felt balls Decorative paper Pens or markers Paints Use paints and decorative paper to decorate your jar. Make sure you thoroughly wash your jar if you're saving it from your kitchen. Clean any labeling off the outside, and rinse any remaining food from the inside. Cut enough pieces of paper for each day in your calendar. Write a message on each strip of paper. Your messages can be activities, such as "go to the movies," or you can leave clues for gifts hidden in the house. The felt balls will make it easier to pull the messages out. After you glue the balls on to the paper, fold the paper to hide the message. Write the numbers on the outside of the paper strip for easy searching. Toss the messages in the jar and screw on the lid. Each day find the appropriate date, and see what your gift is!


Gather your supplies. Find a Kinder Surprise egg. Use a nail or screw driver to poke a hole on each side of the egg, right above the seam. Cut two short pieces of yellow pipe cleaner and poke each piece into each hole. Secure each piece with hot glue. Paint the bottom half of the egg blue using acrylic paint. Consider drawing the pocket with a black pen. Make the gloves and shoes out of air dry clay. Color the gloves and shoes. Add the hair. Glue on one or two googly eyes onto the top half of the egg. Secure the shoes and gloves. Use a black marker to draw the face and goggle strap.

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The yellow capsules that come inside Kinder Surprises almost look like minions. All they need are some small details. This section will show you how to make a minion using a Kinder Surprise egg. If you live in the United States, however, you won't be able to find these in a store; you will need to purchase them online. Here's what you'll need:  1 Kinder Surprise egg Blue paint Nail, awl, knitting needle, or small screwdriver Yellow pipe cleaner Air-dry clay Black marker Googly eyes Black yarn Glue These are unavailable in the United States, but you can purchase the eggs on Amazon. You can also try using plastic Easter eggs, although they might be more difficult to drill through.  You can use other options like any egg shape toy or snack packaging.  Simply paint it yellow and glue them together. Glue the egg shut. Open the egg and place a thin line of super glue along the inside rim. Close the egg and wait for the glue to dry. This will help keep your Minion together longer. This will make the arm holes.  Do this by folding 1 centimeter of each pipe cleaner arm inside the egg. Place a large drop of hot glue over each fold. This will be the uniform. If you want, you can also paint n's right above the seam line to make the straps. In the movie, the Minions also had a letter "G" on the front pocket. You can also make this your personal minion instead, and draw your first initial instead. You can use any color of clay, and color it black later, of you can use black clay. Once you make the gloves, stick them onto the arms before they dry. You can use black paint or a marker. Let the paint dry before moving on. Cut some black yarn into short pieces, and attach it to the top of the minions head using some glue. Place the glue onto the egg first, then press the eye down onto it. The gloves should already be on the arms, but you might want to put some glue around the cuff of each glove so that it won't fall off. To attach the shoes, place a large drop of glue on to the of each shoe, and press it against the bottom of...


Gather your supplies. Find a glass piece to paint. Clean the glass with some soap and water. Have your pattern or design ready. Place the pattern where you want it to be. Wipe the surface of the glass down with rubbing alcohol.

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Glass painting requires a little more than just paint and brushes. You will also need to prepare your glass piece properly, so that the paint will stick. Some paints also need to be cured in an oven. Here is a list of what you will need to get a basic painting done:  Glass object to paint Cotton balls Rubbing alcohol Design printed on paper Masking tape Glass paints Paint brushes Plate or palette Oven (optional) You can paint things like jars, cups, or wine glasses. You can also paint a glass panel. The best place to get a glass panel is from a picture frame. When you are done painting, you can display the finished piece inside the frame. Make sure that the panel in the frame is glass, however; some frames come with an acrylic panel instead of glass. You can take the back out of a picture frame, or leave it in. If you decide to leave the back in, you might want to cover it with some white paper. Most glass paint is translucent, so it will show up best against a white background. Even if the glass looks clean, you will still want to wash it. Any oil, dirt, or dust may keep the paint from sticking to the surface. It needs to be printed on paper. If you are painting something like a cup or jar, the paper needs to be trimmed down so that it can fit inside. The best patterns to use are just outlines, like from a coloring book. If you plan on using this glass piece for eating or drinking out of, move the pattern to a place where food, drink, or mouths won't be touching it. Even if a glass paint is labeled as "non-toxic," it may not be food-safe.  If you are painting on a flat sheet of glass, place the pattern face down on the glass. Tape the edges down with masking tape, and flip the glass over. If you are painting on a cup, place the pattern inside the cup. Move it around until it is where you want it to be. Press the paper against the wall of the cup, and tape it in place. Keep borders in mind. If you are going to put the glass panel inside a frame, make sure that the frame won't be covering your design. Soak a...


Gather your supplies. Find the right size nails for your fangs. Use a scissor or nail clipper to cut the nails into fang shapes. File down any rough edges. Place a small amount of denture adhesive on the back of the nail. Press the fangs onto your tooth. Wait a few minutes to make sure the glue holds.

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This method involves a few cheap items you should be able to find in any drugstore or department store. You will need the following:  A box of fake white fingernails. Make sure the box has several different sizes of nails, so when you make your fangs you can find a good fit for your teeth. Denture adhesive. This should be available at any drugstore in the oral care aisle. Common denture glues are Polygrip and Fixodent. Make sure the denture glue is clear or white. A colored glue will show through the fangs when they are on your teeth, and you could end up with green or red vampire fangs.  Nail clippers or a pair of scissors. You'll need these to cut the nails, so either will work. Whichever you use, make sure it is sharp, otherwise you won't be able to get a clean cut through the nails. Nail file. You will need this after cutting the nails to take care of any jagged edges left behind, so you don't cut your mouth. The nail should be roughly the size of your canine teeth, which are the most common place for vampire fangs. To find the canines, look for the two pointy teeth, third from the front. Don't worry if you can't find a nail that perfectly fits. You can cut it to size later when you make the fangs. The particular style here is up to you. Some prefer long, slender fangs, while others prefer a more curved fang. If you're stumped, it helps for you to model your fangs on a particular character you like. This is also where you can cut the nails down to size if they were too big for your teeth. After you cut, inspect the fangs for jagged edges left behind. Smooth them out with the nail file so you don't cut your mouth while wearing your fangs. Just a drop should do- if you use too much the glue will spill out from behind the fang when you press it onto your tooth. Hold your finger there for about a minute to give the glue a chance to stick. Then repeat this for your other fang. Try talking and moving your lips around. The fangs may wiggle a bit but shouldn't fall off. If they come lose, don't worry. Just try...


Gather your supplies. Fold a piece of construction paper in half. Decorate the band-aids. Tape the band-aids to the front of the card. Write Get Well Soon under the band-aids. Write a message inside the card.

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This is a fun card to make for kids, since it comes with a band-aid you can really use! All you need are some simple supplies you probably already have in the house. Gather the following:  Three plain band-aids. A permanent marker. Three pair of googly-eyes (optional). Construction paper in your favorite color. Clear tape. This is the base of your card, so choose your favorite color, or the favorite color of the person you're making the card for. Line up the short edges of the construction paper and crease the fold with your finger. Turn ordinary band-aids into a cute little decorations that will cheer up your friend. In the center of each band-aid, draw a funny face using your permanent marker. You can make a happy smiley face or a sick frowny face, depending on what you want. Try to make each one different.  If you have googly eyes, use them as part of the faces. If not, just draw the eyes with your permanent marker.  Regular markers will smudge, so make sure to use a permanent marker. Space them out evenly on the front of the card. You'll have a top, middle and bottom band-aid, with an inch or two of space in between them. Use two pieces of clear tape to tape down the ends of the band-aids.  Keep the paper backing on the band-aids so your friend can remove the tape and use them. If you don't want the tape to show, make tiny tape loops, sticky-side out. Stick them to the undersides of the band-aids, then affix them to the card. Write the word "Get" under the first band-aid, "Well" under the second band-aid, and "Soon" under the third band-aid. Use all capital letters or cursive handwriting if you want. Start by writing the person's name, then write a few sentences to say you hope he or she recovers very soon. Sign your name at the end of the note.


Gather your supplies. Jack up the car. Place a container or jar underneath the master cylinder's bleeder nozzle or the place for the hose attachment. Ask your helper to slowly pump your brake pedal several times. Have your helper press and hold down the brake pedal. Detach the hoses connecting the brakes and the master cylinder. Examine the brake fluid. Reattach the hoses to the master cylinder. Have your helper release the pedal. Repeat until the air is out of the master cylinder.

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Unlike with bleeding a separate or new master cylinder, you can do this without gathering new parts or equipment. You will need:  A brake bleed screwdriver or wrench. You will have to loosen the screws that hold the hoses in place in order to bleed the master cylinder. Pliers. You will need these to pinch the hose attached to your master cylinder in between pumps WD-40 or other water-displacing solvent. Your brake bleed screw may be caked with oil or other contaminants and be difficult to unscrew. You'll use the WD-40 to remove this material and allow yourself to loosen the screw. A helper. He or she will pump your brakes while you fiddle with the hoses and screws underneath your car. This will allow you to get underneath it to work with the master cylinder. Immobilize the car by blocking the wheels, and make sure it won't roll by parking it on a flat surface. This container will be used for catching the excess brake fluid, so make sure you don't mind that it gets dirty.  Consider attaching the hoses to the container in some way. Once you begin pumping, they will begin flailing about and spray blake fluid everywhere if they are not anchored down in some way. An old coffee can works especially well for this, as does any cylindrical container with a wide, flared opening. Have him or her indicate to you what he or she is doing by calling out "down" when pressing the brake pedal and "up" when letting it go. Now you will begin doing some work on the master cylinder. This isolates your master cylinder and keeps you from bleeding your brakes as well.  You're trying to bleed your master cylinder, and not your brakes, so you don't want to affect the latter by messing with the former. Likely, brake fluid will instantly fly out. This is why you want to have a container attached. Before your helper releases the pedal, make sure you have the hoses back on. If there is air in the fluid, you will see air bubbles in what was discharged. This is also why it is important to have a container or jar, because without collecting...


Gather your supplies. Lay the stones out and look at the variety. Make a template. Lay the stones out on the template. Clean the surface before you apply the stone.

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Before you start putting stones on the wall, set out everything you’ll need and cover the floor or counter with a plastic or canvas drop cloth. This prevents a mess in case you drop adhesive. The main supplies you’ll need are the AirStones, the adhesive, a putty knife, and a hacksaw. It can be useful to take all of the stones out of the box at this point. A primary feature of AirStone is the range of colors and sizes which create a natural look of variation. Lay the stones out and group them by size or color so that as you apply them to the wall you can pick from the piles. Purposefully randomizing the stones gives the most desirable look. This will add time to your process and it isn’t vital, but it is a helpful way to get the best look. Using the measurements of the area the stone will go, make a sketch on paper with the measurements. Use painter’s tape, or basic masking tape, to make a template on the floor using the measurements. This helps you visualize where the stones will go. It takes longer in the beginning, but it speeds up the process once you begin applying them to the wall. Since the stones come in multiple shades and sizes, laying them in a template helps you visualize how they will fit on the wall. Lay them out so that none of the seams match up and so the colors are distributed around randomly. This also gives you a chance to see how many stones you’ll need to cut to fit the area perfectly. Take a rag and wet it with warm water and a mild soap or cleaner. Wipe the entire surface carefully to remove any dust or debris that would hinder the adhesive from sticking. Take a dry cloth and dry the surface after you wipe it thoroughly. Allow the surface to air dry if necessary.


Gather your supplies. Measure the length of your headband.

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Rather than buying a floral headband, making your own is quick, easy, and inexpensive. For this DIY project, you will need:  1/2” thick elastic (can be found at any craft store) An elastic headband can be used if you already own one  Fake flowers (can be found at any craft store) Hot glue gun (E6000 or super glue can also be used) Scissors Wrap the elastic around the top of your head. Once you find the right length, hold the spot with your fingers. Unwrap the elastic from your head and use scissors to cut the elastic at the spot marked by your fingers.  If you already have your own headband, you can skip this step. The headband can be any color you like; both dark- and light-colored headbands look nice.


Gather your supplies. Measure your wrist and add ¼ to 1 inch (0.64 to 2.54 centimeters). Cut two pieces of thread that are twice the length of your measurement. Hold the two threads together, fold them in half, and tie a large knot near the top of the loop. Place a drop of super glue onto the knot and fold a bead tip over it. Put all four strands of the thread through a beading needle and start stringing your beads. Take the needle off the thread and tie a few knots close to the last bead. Place a drop of glue onto the knots and fold a bead tip over them. Repeat this process to create as many strands as you want. Open two jump rings using a pair of needle nose pliers. Put one part of the clasp and the beaded strands onto one jump ring. Close the jump ring. Repeat the process for the other clasp and the other end of the beaded strands.

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Multi-strand bracelets are fun to make. You make all strands using the same type of bead, but in different colors. You can also make each strand using a different type of bead. Seed beads are great for this type of bracelet. Here is a list of what you will need:  Beading thread Beading needle Beads Bead tips (also called bead clamps, clam shells, bead ends, or string tips) 2 jump rings Clasp and hook Needle nose pliers Scissors Super glue This will allow the bracelet to hang loosely around your wrist. This will give you the length of your finished bead strands. You will be folding them in half in a later step. This will make one beaded strand. You will want about two to four knots. Don't worry if they look messy; you will be hiding them. You should end up with a large knot and four strands of thread coming out of it. This will make the bracelet more durable. You can use your fingertips or a pair of needle nose pliers to close the bead tip. The loop on the bead tip should be on the same side as the short, extra ends of your thread. You will trim them off later. Keep stringing until the bracelet is a little bit shorter than you want it to be. Don't tie the knot too close, however, or you will put too much pressure on the thread. Try to leave a small gap between the knot and bead. You can use your fingertips or a pair of needle nose pliers to close the bead tip. The loop of the bead tip should be facing away from the beads. When you finish all of your strands, lay them out side by side in an order that you find visually pleasing. If you'd prefer a "tangled" look to your finished bracelet, interweave your strands rather than keeping them separate. Hold a jump ring with your fingers and a pair of needle nose pliers. The cut part of the jump ring should be between your fingers and the pliers. Hold the ring tightly with the pliers, then move your fingers away from you. The jump ring will twist open. Repeat this step for the other jump ring. Hold the jump ring with the needle nose pliers, and slip the clasp and...


Gather your supplies. Measure your wrist and cut the elastic a little bit longer. Stretch the elastic. Fold some tape over one of the ends of the elastic. Put the beads onto the elastic. Keep adding beads until you have the length you want. Take the tape or clip off, and tie a square/surgeon knot. Try to slide the knot under one of the adjacent beads. Wait for the glue to dry before wearing your bracelet.

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Stretchy bracelets are the easiest to make, and require the fewest tools. You can make a simple, child-friendly one using elastic cord and plastic pony beads. You can also make a dainty one using clear elastic and glass beads. Here is a list of what you will need:  Beading elastic or cord. Beads Scissors Tape or binder clip Super glue Take the beading elastic and wrap it one and a half times around your wrist. Cut it with a pair of sharp scissors. You are making it slightly larger so that you can knot it later. Hold the elastic between your fingers and stretch it gently. This will prevent the elastic from stretching out later on and creating gaps. This will prevent the beads from sliding off while you work. If you do not have any tape, or if the tape won't stick, use a binder clip instead. You do not need a needle for this; most elastic is stiff enough that you can put the bead directly onto the string. Hold the elastic close to the end, and slip the beads on. Try to put the bead with the largest hole on first. Once you finish the bracelet, you can hide the knot by sliding it under that bead. Be sure to wrap the bracelet round your wrist from time to time. The first and last bead should be touching, and the bracelet should be somewhat loose. You do not want it to stretch around your wrist. If you see any gaps or cord, you will need more beads. Start by folding the two ends of the elastic over and under each other, like tying a pair of shoes. Tie another knot like it but don't tighten it yet; you will have something that looks like a ring. Wrap one of the tail ends around one side of the circle. Do the same thing for the other side. Now you can tighten the knot. This will determine how you finish off the bracelet. Be sure to have a bottle of super glue ready.  If you can slide the knot under one of the beads, trim off the extra string and put a drop of glue over the knot. Slide the knot under the bead. If you can't fit the knot under one of the beads, tuck the tail ends inside the beads instead. Put a drop of...


Gather your supplies. Place the stencil down onto the side of box. Pour the paint out onto a paint palette or a paper plate. Dip your brush into the paint and tap off the excess paint. Tap the brush onto the stencil. Let the paint dry before you remove the stencil and work on another side of the box. Let the paint dry completely before you put anything into the box.

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Stenciling a gift box is a great way to add your personal, unique touch. Here's a list of what you will need:  Plain gift box Stencils Painter's tape or masking tape (optional) Acrylic or tempera paint Foam brush or stencil brush Paint palette or paper plate Paper weights, cups, stones, etc You will be stenciling one side of the box at a time. Some stencils are sticky on the back and will stick to the box on their own. If your stencil does not have a sticky back, you will need to put a piece of painter's tape or masking tape along each edge to hold it down. If your box has a lid, then take the lid off, and stencil it separately. You can use acrylic paint or tempera paint. Acrylic paint will give you a nice, glossy finish. Tempera paint will give you a somewhat chalky or dusty finish, which can also be very nice.  You can also use glitter and glue instead if you want your design to be super glittery. If you want your design to be only somewhat glittery, glitter paint instead of regular paint. This will keep you from picking up too much paint. If you apply too much paint at once, the paint may slip under the stencil and cause smears and drips. Keep taping until the entire area is covered with paint. If the paint is too thin, apply a second, thin coat. It is better to layer many thin coats than slap on one thick coat. At this point, you can flip or rotate the box to make it easier to paint. Most paints should be dry to the touch within 5 to 20 minutes. Just because something looks dry does not mean that it is dry underneath. If you move your box too soon, you may risk smearing the paint. Most paints will be completely dry in 20 minutes to 2 hours, but you might want to check the label on the paint bottle just in case. If you added glitter to your design, you might want to spray the box with a clear, acrylic sealer. Make sure that the spray is glossy, or your glitter will lose its sparkle.


Gather your supplies. Prepare the daffodil. Make a plaster. Apply mixture to wart.

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A daffodil is a common flower in the U.S., with yellow petals and an orange bulb. You can grow your own daffodils or buy them from your local florist or greenhouse. You will also need a clean towel made from thin cloth.  Make sure you are familiar with daffodils before applying one to your skin. Different plants have a variety of properties, so you want to make sure you have the right flower to use in this remedy. If you're not sure that you have daffodils growing in your yard, pick one, take it to your local florist, and ask for help identifying your plant. Many people report skin irritation after coming in contact with daffodil bulbs. If you have sensitive skin, you might not want to try this remedy. You should also ask your doctor for advice about using any plants that are commonly known to cause irritation. Using scissors or a knife, remove the stem and petals from the daffodil. Place the bulb on a flat surface such as a counter or cutting board. Flatten the bulb, using your hands. You can also use any common item, such as pressing on it with a small plate. You can also use your fingers to pull the pollen-like substance from the stems. You may want to wear a pair of disposable gloves for this process. Daffodils can irritate the skin. Collect the extract from the daffodil bulb. It will look and feel somewhat like pollen. Mix a small amount of water with the extract. Use the back of a spoon to mix the water and extract together to make a plaster, or paste. Consider wearing latex gloves during this step. You may not want to have undiluted extract come in contact with your skin. Put the plaster in a thin, soft towel. Lightly press the compress to the area where your wart is located. Hold in place for several minutes. Then rinse the area with soap and water.  Make sure to clean your hands thoroughly after handling the daffodil bulb. You should also wipe down the area where you made the paste. If this method does not get rid of your wart on the first try, you may want to ask your doctor or pharmacist to...


Gather your supplies. Prepare the water. Bend the wire. Hold the wires to the battery. Stick the free ends of the wire in the dish of water.

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You can use your homopolar motor to demonstrate magnetohydrodynamic (MHD) propulsion. MHD propulsion is a means of using electrical current to push something through water. You'll need the following for this experiment:  1 C-cell battery 1 strong neodymium magnet 2 pieces of thick copper wire A small dish Salt and pepper Pour about .25 to .5 inches (0.6 to 1.3 cm) of water into the dish. Don't fill the dish completely. Stir in a few dashes of salt and pepper, and place the dish on the magnet. Adding salt improves the conductivity of the water. Adding pepper allows you to see the propulsion at work. Bend each piece of wire so that when you hold the wires to the battery, the opposite ends are only a few centimeters apart. When you hold the the copper wire to the battery, the wires should almost make a "Y" shape. Be careful not to let the ends of the wire touch each other. Hold one wire against the positive side of the battery, and one end against the negative side of the battery. Place one wire in the center of the dish, and the other against the side of the dish. You should see the water begin to swirl around one of the wires.  The water moves due to the Lorentz force. Each wire carries an electrical current. When you dip the wires into the salt water, you complete the circuit. The current moves horizontally through the water, from one wire to the other. Because the dish of water is sitting on a magnet, there is a magnetic field moving upwards through the water. When the electrical current moves through the magnetic field, the Lorentz force causes the water to spin.  If you turn the battery around, you can reverse the direction of the current, and the water will spin in the opposite direction.  You're dealing with water and electricity, so exercise caution when performing this experiment.


Gather your supplies. Prop the ball up on a cup. Glue the candy on. Prepare the pot. Complete the topiary.

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You'll need a pot, a styrofoam ball, foam for the pot, a stick to attach the ball to the foam in the pot, and hot glue. For an edible ball, you can still use styrofoam, but you'll also need aluminum foil, meringue powder, powdered sugar, food coloring, and water. Of course, you'll also need the candy you want to use.  If you want to skip the glue altogether, you can use stick candy that you stick into the foam, rather than glue on. You can use any kind of small candy you want, such as jelly beans, peppermint candies, gumballs, candy-coated chocolate candies, or even chocolate kisses. For gravel, try pieces of rock candy or jelly beans. You can also use paint, ribbon, and/or stickers to decorate the pot. Using a cup to hold the ball makes it easier, as it can give you more space to work on the ball without holding on to the candy while it's drying. For an edible arrangement, cover the ball in foil. Balance the ball on top of the cup before you begin gluing. For a simple topiary ball, simply glue your candy on the foam ball, making sure to get it all covered with the candy so you don't see the white underneath. You can also make an edible glue with royal icing, if you prefer.  To make royal icing, mix together 3 tablespoons (44.4 ml) of meringue powder and 4 cups of powdered sugar. Add in 1/4 to 1/2 of a cup of warm water, a tablespoon at a time, and use a hand mixer to incorporated it in. Keep adding it in until it's a thick paste. Thicker is better for this application. You can also add food coloring to tint the glue. Let the candy dry thoroughly before working with it again. Make sure to leave a spot where the stick can go in. Cut the foam to fit the inside of the pot. Decorate the pot how you'd like, using paint or stickers. Place the stick in the center of the foam, ready for the ball to go on top. It can help to use a bit of hot glue on the bottom of the stick to make sure it stays upright. Add candy or other decorations as "gravel" to the pot on top of the foam, or you can use glass beads. You can make...


Gather your supplies. Put the dried rose petals into one of the jars. Pour hot, but not boiling, water over the petals. Cover the jar and let the water cool. Put a strainer over the empty jar. Pour the rosewater into the jar. Seal the jar and store it in the fridge.

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In addition to the dried rose petals and hot water, you will also need two glass mason jars and a strainer. If you want to use this water for cooking, then consider getting dried petals from edible roses, such as Rosa damascena, Rosa Centifolia and Rosa Gallica. They will give you the best taste. Make sure that you are using distilled water, which is free of any bacteria. If you cannot find distilled water, then you can use filtered water instead. This will take about 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the temperature of the room. You will be transferring the rosewater into this jar; the strainer will catch the rose petals. Carefully put the water in the strainer, so that the water flows into the empty jar and the petals get caught in the strainer. Once all of the water is in the new jar, you can discard the petals. You will need to use this rosewater within one week, or it will expire.


Gather your supplies. Remove the handle of the fork. Cut the remaining section in half. Cut off one tine from each section. Apply a drop of denture glue to the base. Press the fang onto your tooth. Wait a few minutes to make sure the glue holds.

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You'll need many of the same, easily found supplies as with the fake nail fangs.  Scissors Denture glue A plastic fork. This should be white unless you want to experiment with different colors. Measure about halfway between where the handle ends and the tines begin. Using the scissors, cut straight across the fork along this halfway line. You should be left with a roughly rectangular piece. Position your scissor between the middle two points of the fork and cut. You should be left with two sections, each with two tines. You should now have two pieces, both with a long point and a rectangular base. You'll want your fangs to curve in, not out. To do this, make sure you apply the glue to what was originally the front of the fork. Hold it there for about a minute to make sure the glue sticks. Repeat this for the other fang. Since the fork tines will stick out of your mouth, you may not be able to put them on your canines. If they don't fit there, you can stick them to your incisors. These are directly next to your front teeth. Try talking and moving your lips around. With the fork method, your fangs will stick out of your mouth, so talking may be more difficult. If they fall off, just try again with a little more glue.


Gather your supplies. Rough up the glove. Create your finger pieces. Cut out the pieces. Glue the finger pieces to the glove. Paint the hand and finger pieces. Draw the blades. Paint the blades. Glue the blades to the glove.

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Before beginning gather everything you will need to make your glove. You will find a list of things needed for this method near the bottom of the page. Once you have begun, it may be frustrating if you have to stop to find something you need.  Make sure you have the glove you want. Brown will be more authentic, but you can choose any color you like. You will need you glove, scissors, some strong glue, thin cardboard (such as that you might find for a cereal box), and if you want to paint the pieces then silver paint. You could also use shiny silver paper. If you want to rough up the appearance of the glove, you can use a piece of sandpaper. In the movie, Freddy’s glove does not look new. If you wish to, you can use a piece of sandpaper on the glove to make it look a bit more used. You will need to trace out a total of 8 different pieces for the fingers, plus a “cover” for the hand piece. Remember, the thumb is left completely free, with no pieces covering it, except the glove.  First, draw out a piece for the hand. You want the cardboard to be large enough to cover the back of the hand. The shape should be roughly the size and shape of the back of your hand, so a somewhat rounded square shape. Then, draw out a piece for each of the lower halves of your finger. This piece of cardboard will need to cover your finger between your knuckles and the middle of your finger. Draw the pieces so that they will be wider than each of your fingers and can be folded in half over the glove (you will glue them on later). For the bottom part of your finger, you can measure the cardboard out so that it is the length of your finger from your knuckle to the middle of your finger, where the joint is. Draw out finger pieces for the top of the fingers. These will be slightly smaller than the pieces for the bottom half of your fingers, but should still be wide enough so that they can wrap around the glove, and be attached with glue. The pieces will be shaped in a rounded rectangular shape so that the will be long enough to cover each...


Gather your supplies. Set up a safe fire location. Roll up the paper into a tube. Burn the tube. Watch the smoke rise from the paper. Repeat the experiment as desired.

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For this experiment, you will need a large bucket, such as one that holds 10 gallons (38 l). You will need water. You will need a lighter, a pack of matches, or a fire igniter. Finally, you will need 5-10 pieces of plain printer paper. Fill your large bucket with water and place it outside. Make sure it is not located near wood, paper, dry grass, or other flammable material. For example, a driveway, parking lot, or gravel alley may be the most fire-safe place to complete this experiment. Stack several pieces of white printer paper on top of each other. Roll them up as tightly as you can into a single tube. If you wish, you may secure them at one end with a rubber band 3/4 of the way down the tube. You can hold the tube below the rubberband. For peak scientific precision, use a pencil to mark the quarter and halfway points along the tube. This will show you how much of the tube to burn. Hold your paper tube by its rubber-banded end over the bucket of water. Light the end that is furthest from you. You should see flame, but no smoke. Allow it to burn into a quarter or a half of the paper has burned away, then gently blow it out. Watch out for stray bits of paper. If you see any, stamp on them or drip water on them so that no fires start. After you have blown out the fire, your tube should give off white smoke for a minute or so. The white smoke is the result of burning cellulose that releases water droplets and unburned fuel from the paper. You may burn it and blow it out until you are satisfied. Do not burn the paper once you can no longer hold it below the rubber band. Drop the paper in the water bucket before it gets too close to your hand.  Make sure to soak the paper in water when you're done with it to avoid starting a fire. To produce black smoke, burn the end with the rubber band. It will smell horrible.


Gather your supplies. Start by combing your hair. Apply any hair products while your hair is still wet. Let your hair air dry partway. Spray your hair with some heat protecting spray. Start blow drying your hair, using a low or medium heat setting.

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Kinky or textured hair can look great and amazing, but it is also delicate and prone to damage. If you have kinky or textured hair, you'll need to take a few extra steps to protect it from the heat of a blow dryer. Here's what you'll need:  Hairdryer Wide-tooth comb attachment Heat protecting spray Styling foam or mousse Hair cream or serum Wide-toothed comb Ceramic round brush Use a wide-toothed comb, and start from the ends of your hair first. Only comb your hair from the roots straight down if your hair is completely tangle-free. Use a styling foam or mousse if you plan on having a blowout. If you want to straighten your hair later, use a styling cream or serum; it will give your hair more protection. You want it to be almost dry before you start using a hairdryer. If you try to blow dry your hair while it is still wet, you might "cook" your hair, and damage it from the inside out. Consider braiding your hair and letting it air dry all the way, or partway. Kinky, textured hair is delicate, and the high temperatures of a hairdryer can really damage it. Aim the nozzle downward, and keep it at least 6 inches (15 cm) away from your hair. If you keep it too close, you might burn or scorch your hair, even with the heat protecting spray.  Try working in smaller sections. Aiming the nozzle down the hair shaft will help prevent frizz. Start blow drying from the back of your head first. This way, you won't have to worry about messing up the front after you finish it. Use a ceramic round brush to smooth out your hair. Brush your hair from the roots to the ends and blow dry the section from roots to ends as you do this. You can blow dry your hair without using a brush, but then you will have to use a flat iron to straighten it.


Gather your supplies. Take some measurements. Compare your facial features. Examine the shape of your jaw.

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There are multiple face shapes out there, and knowing what yours is can help you determine the hair cuts, eyebrow shapes, and makeup styles that will be most flattering.  To figure out the shape of your face, you will need a ruler and calculator. The most common face shapes include oval, heart, long, round, square, diamond, and pear. In a mirror, hold a ruler in front of your face to measure the basic length and width of your face, without taking into account the additional measurements added by protruding features like your nose. Take the basic measurements of your:  Forehead, from one eyebrow arch to the other Jawline, from the tip of your chin to the edge of your jaw (times two) Face length, from the tip of your chin to the start of your hairline Cheekbones, from the outside corner of one eye to the other (across the bridge of the nose) One of the easiest ways to determine the shape of your face is to look at the parts that are widest and longest.  If your measurements are roughly equal, your face is likely square, round, or oval. If your forehead is widest, you likely have a heart-shaped, or inverted triangle face. When cheekbones are the widest, this generally indicates a diamond-shaped face. A wider jaw often means a pear- or triangle-shaped face. If the length measurement of our face was the largest, this is oblong. The shape of your jaw plays into the overall shape of your face, so you must consider this when determining the shape of your face.  Rounded jaws mean a round or oval face Strong and well-defined jaws often mean square, diamond, or triangle faces Pointed chins indicate a diamond-shaped face


Gather your supplies. Turn off and unplug the printer. Remove the cartridges. Remove the print head unit. Create a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water. Pour the mixture into the bowl. Place the print head unit in the alcohol and water mixture. Leave the print head alone for at least two minutes. Dab the print head on a paper towel. Test the print head.

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To clean your print heads, you will need the following items:  Isopropyl alcohol Water A bowl or pie tin Paper towels This will prevent you from damaging the printer or hurting yourself while removing the cartridges and the print head unit. Open your printer's main casing, then remove the cartridges one by one until they're all out of the printer. You will most likely have to consult your printer's manual or online documentation for the proper way to extract the cartridges. This is the tray in which the cartridges sit. You should see several holes in the bottom of the print head unit.  Again, consult your printer's manual or online documentation for the proper way to do this for your model. If your printer uses cartridges that have print heads on them, skip this step. Starting with half a cup (four ounces) of each should be fine. Mixing the two together reduces the abrasive effects of the alcohol, meaning that the mixture shouldn't damage the print head itself. Keep the mixture shallow (around a quarter of an inch deep) to start—you can always add more later. The mixture should come about half an inch (around a centimeter) up the side of the print head (or cartridge). If your printer uses cartridges with built-in print heads instead, place the cartridge in the mixture instead. Doing so will give the print head's dried ink time to loosen. This will remove any excess moisture and ink from the surface of the print head. You'll want to dry completely the print head before proceeding. Place back the print head unit and/or cartridges, plug back in the printer, and try to print a test page. Your printer should now work like usual. If your printer still won't print correctly, try leaving the print head unit (or cartridges) in the alcohol and water mixture overnight.


Gather your supplies. Wash your hands. Make your needle. Heat your needle. Draw your design. Ink your needle. Apply the ink to your skin. Take care of your tattoo. Touch up the design of your tattoo.

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To apply your homemade ink at home, you'll need a few supplies: a few very fine sewing needles, a #2 pencil, a ballpoint pen, some sewing thread, matches, and alcohol swabs. You'll also need your ink! Before you begin to give yourself a tattoo with your homemade ink, make sure you thoroughly wash your hands. This means washing your hands well, with soap, for at least two minutes. For some extra cleansing, you can also wipe your hands with an alcohol wipe after you've washed them. You'll want to prepare your needle for applying your homemade ink by attaching it to a longer handle. This gives you more control over the movement of the needle and makes tattooing easier. Insert the eye end of your thin needle into the eraser of the #2 pencil. Then wrap the needle and pencil with thread until the needle stays firmly in place. You might want to wrap the thread with some tape to give it extra support and make sure it doesn't move. Once you've got your needle put together, you'll need to heat the tip up. Light a match and hold the needle over it for ten to fifteen seconds. Make sure you turn the needle so it heats evenly. Heating the tip of the needle kills any germs on the needle. This can prevent infection when the needle goes under your skin to apply the ink. Use an alcohol swab to clean the area of your skin where you want to apply your tattoo. Then, using the ballpoint pen, draw on your design.  If you've never done your own tattoo before, you might want to start with a small design. You should practice your design on paper before you draw on your skin. Once you're satisfied with your design placement and style, it's time to ink your needle. Simply dip your needle into your homemade ink. Gently tap the needle on the side of the jar or its lid to remove any excess ink. You don't want the needle to be dripping with ink. Once you've got ink on your needle, poke the needle into your skin at any point in your design. To make sure the ink actually stays in your skin, you'll need to poke through the first two layers of...


Gather your supplies. Weigh the puppy. Measure out the correct amount of milk into a microwaveable bowl. Use the syringe to suck up the milk replacer. Attach the feeding tube to the syringe. Measure out the length of the tube you will insert into the puppy’s mouth.

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You will need a 12 cc syringe, a soft rubber feeding tube, and a 16 in (41 cm) urethral catheter with a diameter of 5 French (for small dogs) and 8 French (for large dogs). These are the items you will use to create your feeding tube device. You will also need puppy milk replacer that contains goat milk, like ESBILAC®. You can also buy an already assembled feeding tube from your local veterinary office or pet store. You will need to determine the puppy’s weight so that you know how much milk replacer to give it. Place it on a scale to determine its weight. For every ounce of the puppy’s weight, give him 1 cc or ml of the milk replacer. Add one extra cc to be careful. Heat the milk replacer up so that it is easier on the puppy’s stomach. Place the milk into the microwave for 3 to 5 seconds so that it reaches a lukewarm temperature. Draw the milk up until you have the measured amount of milk, plus one extra cc. The extra cc will be used to ensure that the puppy doesn’t get any air bubbles, which could cause bloating or gas pain. Once the syringe has drawn up all of the milk replacer, press down gently until a tiny drop comes out of the syringe. Doing this will ensure that the syringe is working properly. You will need to attach the end of the rubber feeding tube to the end of the syringe. To do this, place the tip of the rubber tube up against the side of the puppy’s bottom, or last, rib, and run the tube from there to the tip of the pup’s nose. Pinch the tube where it touches the puppy’s nose and make a mark there with a permanent marker.


Gather your supplies. Write down the vocabulary words on one side of the cards. Write down the definitions on the other side. Use neat handwriting.

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In order to make flashcards by hand, you should first gather your supplies. You can get most of the supplies you need at a local department store. You may also find some materials at an office supply store.  You will need index cards, which are 3 by 5 inches (7.6 by 12.7 cm) cards on which you'll be writing your vocabulary terms. You'll need a pen and a pencil. It's a good idea to write the cards down in pencil first, in case you misspell something, and then trace over them in pen so they're clear and easy to read. Consider investing in several different colors of pen. This way, you can color-coordinate your cards by subject or unit. Choose colors you can easily read, however. Something written in yellow ink may be hard to make out, while something written in blue or red is easily readable. Vocabulary index cards are very simple to make. To start, write down the vocabulary term on one side of each card. Usually, index cards have one lined side and one blank side. It's a good idea to write the vocabulary term on the blank side, as you can use the lines to guide your writing when you write down definitions.  Write the words in pencil first and then write over them in pen. Color coordinate the cards as needed. For example, all the vocabulary from English class can be written in red. All the vocabulary from history class can be written in blue. This way, if the cards accidentally get jumbled, you can easily separate them again by subject.  You can also color coordinate by difficulty. For example, you could write the vocabulary words you already know in green, the tougher ones in red, and the extremely challenging ones in blue. When you've written all the vocabulary words on the blank side of the cards, flip your stack over. Write down the definitions of the terms on the lined side of your index cards. Make sure you leave yourself enough room. Some words may have longer definitions. Try to write small for these words. When writing index cards, try to use your best handwriting possible. You do not want your cards...


Gather your supplies: Find a plain, white paper plate. Write the numbers 1 to 12 around the rim of the plate. Draw a two arrows on a piece of colored paper and cut them out. Decorate the plate and arrows.

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Because this clock is made out of paper, it won't be able to move its hands on its own. You can move the hands yourself, but for that, you will need a brad or paper fastener. Here's a list of what you will need:  Paper plate Paper Brad (paper fastener) Scissors Crayons, markers, stickers, etc A plate with pictures on it may look pretty, but you won't be able to see the numbers. Don't worry, you can color the plate later. If you can't find a plain paper plate, use a regular plate to trace a circle onto a piece of paper. Cut the circle out and use it instead. If you have a very narrow rim, then write the numbers on the plate itself. Try to make the spaces between the numbers as even as you can. It might also be a good idea to write the numbers with a pencil first. You can draw over the numbers with crayon or marker later.  Try to write the 12, 3, 6, and 9 first. This may help you keep things even.  You can also use foam or sticker numbers instead of writing them out. One arrow should be a little shower than the other one. Make sure that the bigger arrow can reach the numbers. The big arrow will be the minute hand, and the small hand will be the hour hand. If you want to add color to your clock, now is the time. You can color the clock with crayons, paint, or markers. You can add stickers or even glitter to it. Try not to put too much on it, or you will not see the numbers. If you used paint or glitter glue, you will need to let everything dry before moving on.


Gather your tools. Locate the hole. Insert the paperclip into the hole and push.

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Push button locks are often found on interior doors. Usually bedrooms and bathrooms inside a home. They have a button on the inside doorknob that the occupant can push to engage the lock. Push button locks can be opened from the outside using a number of different items. Anything long and straight that will fit inside the hole in the center of the doorknob should work. Consider using a hairpin, paperclip, or wire clothes hanger. Most push button locks will have a small hole right in the center of the doorknob. If you don’t see it, check the stem of the knob or the area around where the knob is connected to the door. You should see a small hole. Push the pin into the hole until you feel it catch. Apply pressure and push the pin forward. You should hear a click. The push button lock should pop open.


Gather your tools. Remove the center hinge pin. Place your paper. Reinsert the pin. Test the door. Adjust as necessary.

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You'll need a hammer, a screwdriver, and a strip of paper. Place the screwdriver at the bottom of the hinge pin and use the hammer to tap the bottom of the hinge pin until it comes up out of the hinge. Fold your strip of paper until it is about .5-1 cm wide, and just a bit longer than the hinge. Place the paper in the hinge pinhole and fold the top down just a bit so that the paper stays in place. Put the pin back in the hinge. This may take some hammer tapping. Test to see if the door now stays open when you open it. The paper should make the hinge tighter, keeping the door where you place it. If one piece of paper doesn't work, you might need two. You may also need to put paper in the other hinges as well. Experiment until you get your door working the way you want.


Gather your tools. Turn the phone off and take out any external components. Insert an opening tool between the back cover and the case. Work your way around the edge of the back cover. Work the tool across the top and down the right side. Carefully pull the back cover away from the phone.

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Unlike many other cell phones, the Razr's battery can't be removed with your bare hands. You'll need a few specialized tools before you begin. Luckily, these are available for cheap both online and in in many electronic stores. The tools you will need are:   A plastic opening tool. This is a skinny plastic prybar designed for opening cell phones and tablets.  A spudger. Another plastic tool designed for working with delicate electronic components. Other tools can discharge static electricity and cause short circuits.  A T5 Torx screwdriver. A screwdriver designed to turn the "Torx" screws used in the phone, which have a head that looks like a six-pointed star. Powering the phone off completely before you start working reduces the risk of electric shock or damage to your phone. Removing external pieces like SIM cards, carrying cases, charging cables, and so on ensures that they will remain safe during the battery removal process. Note that most Razed  will have at least one SIM card in them by default. Remove any SIM cards from the small door on the lower left side of the phone. Look at your phone from the side. You should see a small crease running along the edge of the phone. Carefully slip your plastic opening tool into this crease at the lower-left edge of the phone. Gently work the tool to open a gap in the crease. The Razr's back cover is held in place with a series of small plastic clips. Gently move the plastic opening tool up the left side of the phone, using gradual pressure to release each set of clips. You should just be working along the edge of the phone now. The center of the cover is held in place with adhesive that can cause it to snap if you try to pry the entire cover up at once. The top edge of the back cover is especially thin, so be extra-gentle here. Using too much pressure can cause it to snap. When you're done with the top, release the clips on the right side of the phone just like you did with the left. Once you've opened the top, left, and right sides of the back cover, grab the...


Gather your varnishing supplies.

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You’ll only need a few basic supplies to varnish wood. All of them are readily available at your local hardware store. Make sure to get:  Varnish (read the label carefully to make sure it is true oil-based varnish, not polyurethane) A paintbrush (natural bristle is preferable) A stirring stick A large, clear measuring cup with markings on the side Paint thinner (turpentine or mineral spirits) Rubber gloves and a respirator (optional)


Gather your yarn and knitting needles. Continue casting on.

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There aren't any hard and fast rules when it comes to knitting needle requirements for working with certain types of yarn. Choose a yarn that you enjoy and realize that chunkier yarns will knit up faster than thin or fine yarn. The same is true of your needles. If you'd like a larger looser blanket, work on larger needles. Consider using size 19 US or 15.0 mm needles and super chunky yarn to create a large blanket that comes together quickly. Cast on until you have 14 stitches on your needle. This will eventually be an edge of one of your patchwork squares. Each square will measure about 20cm (7.5 inches). Transfer the needle with the stitches to your left hand so you can begin knitting. Continue grasping the yarn in your palm with your fingertips, this will keep it out of the way and create tension so that you can quickly cast on.