Check the age. Look for open wounds in adult birds. Sight-check for blood. Check for movement. Consider the options.

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You might think a baby bird needs help, but it may just be the bird is learning how to fly. Watch the bird for a while from a distance to establish it really is injured and has been abandoned by the mother.  Look for feathers. If a baby bird has feathers, it is likely learning to fly.  You can put featherless baby birds back in the nest if they're not injured. If a bird feels cold, warm it in your hands before setting it back in the nest. The scent of your hands will not bother the parents, who will feed it as they do the other babies.   If you don't see a nest, put the bird somewhere where it is hidden from cats and dogs. For instance, you can set it in a bush or tree. If you see a gaping wound, that is an indication an adult bird needs help, and you may need to rescue it. Blood is another indication a bird is in trouble. If the bird is dripping blood or if you see dried blood, it may need help. If the bird is having trouble standing or flying, it is in serious trouble and needs help. It may be best to leave the bird where it is until you can get help from a professional. Big birds, such as hawks, can cause you serious harm if you don't know what you're doing.


Check the amount of sugar. Search ingredient lists for different types of sugar. Use caution with prepackaged breakfast foods. Avoid artificial sweeteners.

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The nutritional label on prepackaged food products you purchase will list the total amount of sugar per serving in that product. Keep the serving size in mind as it may be less (or more) than you typically consume.  Generally, you shouldn't get more than 5 percent of your calories from sugar. For the average adult, this works out to about 30g of sugar a day, maximum. Any food product with more than 22.5g of sugar has a high sugar content and should be avoided – especially for breakfast. Eating something with that much sugar would mean you'd reached (or even exceeded, depending on the size of your portion) your daily allowance of sugar with the first meal of the day. Foods with 5g of sugar or less typically are considered low in sugar. If you're trying to reduce sugar at breakfast and can't get away from prepackaged food products, these are going to be your best bet. While you may see the word "sugar" on a list of ingredients on the side of a prepackaged food product, you're also likely to see a number of other words that also are sugar, just in a different form.  Watch for any word ending in -ose – sucrose, glucose, fructose, maltose. These are all sugars. Highly processed sugars like corn syrup and high-fructose corn syrup can be found on many ingredient lists for prepackaged food products you might find in the grocery store. Also be on the lookout for molasses, fruit juice, and honey. Though technically "healthier" than refined sugar, these are still sugars and should be limited if you're trying to reduce sugar at breakfast. Packaged, prepared, and frozen foods are notoriously high in sugar. Many frozen foods, such as pre-made breakfast sandwiches, may include sugar as a preservative despite the fact that the food itself isn't particularly sweet.  Even if the front of the box proclaims that the product is "lite" or "sugar free" or "diet," you still need to check the ingredient and nutrition panel. Keep in mind that many of these labels, such as "lite," aren't regulated and could be a deceiving...


Check the appearance and adjust as needed.

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Take a look at the ear cuff in a mirror. If the chain is too taut, slide the cuff further down the side of your ear.  Similarly, if the chain sags too much, you can adjust it by sliding the cuff further up along the outer ridge of the ear. Make sure that the chain is not twisted around the earring and that it falls to the outside of the cuff and earring. Use your fingers to make any necessary adjustments.


Check the audio quality. Provide your music with all the right information. Get good artwork. Deal with logistics.

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If you haven't distributed music before, you'll want to make sure that your debut is as good as your music. Pay attention to the following things before you think about putting your music up:  Audio quality. You want your music to sound good, right? If you've had it professionally recorded in the studio, the chances are good that it already sounds amazing. However, even if you have and definitely if you haven't, it's a good idea to play it and see how it sounds. Try it in places you would expect your new fans to play your music, such as a computer, .mp3 player, car stereo, etc. Audio source. An .mp3 file goes on your .mp3 player, but it isn't good for distribution because it's a compressed format. Make sure you upload your music as a high quality, lossless audio file like a WAV or FLAC file. You can also get it mastered if you want to improve the quality. Your songs need something called meta data, the titles, album, and artist info attached to the files. Without it, people won't be able to recognize your music. Album art is an important part of you and your work's branding, and will help your listeners easily remember who you are by making your work easily identifiable. Currently, store standards (such as ADED.US Music Distribution, iTunes, and Apple Music) require your artwork to be 3000 x 3000 pixels in size exactly with a resolution of 300 dpi/ppi Plus, it's an opportunity to make your work look good. Make sure you copyright your own work, check the copyrights on covers, and set up a release date.  Special processes exist for copyrighting and licensing music. Take care to consider all of these before putting your music out to the public, since some music that gets popular can be ripped off. A violated copyright can be a hard thing to fix. If you're trying to make money off song covers, you can't do so without obtaining the license from the intellectual property owner in writing. Make sure you've done so before you upload covers, or face potential legal hazards. Think of when you want to release your work,...


Check the average humidity in your area. Check your water supply. Assess your house ventilation.

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Evaporative coolers work best with very low relative humidity and hot temperatures. If the average humidity in your area is 40-50%, an evaporative cooler will not work properly. Your swamp cooler will need a lot of water—as the name implies, it works by evaporation, so make sure you have plenty to go. Swamp coolers will increase the humidity in your home significantly, so you need to have very good ventilation. Homes built for evaporative coolers will have the ductwork in place, but for most retrofit installations, you'll want windows opened. I know, you grew up with your dad telling you "close the windows, we aren't cooling the neighborhood," but with swamp coolers that's exactly what you want to do!


Check the back of the head for the manufacturer's mark. Read the manufacturer's mark. Use the manufacturer's mark to browse reference books and websites. Seek professional help if you cannot identify the doll.

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Lift up the hair of the doll if it has a wig. Most antique dolls will have a manufacturer's mark on the back of the head, or on the base of the neck.  If the doll doesn't have a manufacturer's mark anywhere and you still suspect that it could be antique, contact a professional doll appraiser for help. Although the mark is most commonly on the back of the head or neck, they can be located anywhere on the body. Check the back, under the arms, or on the bottom of the feet. This mark will often have the the location where the doll was made, the brand or maker's name, and the size of the doll. The interpretation of the size numbering differs between each brand and maker of dolls. The manufacturer's mark will often give you all of the information that you need to identify the doll. Visit your local library, or use a search engine to find a doll reference website that uses the manufacturer's information to identify the doll.  These guides will also give you information about the value of the doll. This is the most accurate way of identifying the doll, as it can be difficult to rely solely on the appearance. If finding or interpreting the manufacturer's label is difficult, contact a doll appraiser for help. They will be able to identify the type, era, and value of the doll accurately.


Check the banjo. Hold the banjo upright.

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If you want to use this method, you'll need to make sure that there is enough space in between the head tension bracket hooks to thread the strap completely through. You can use this method for most bluegrass banjos, especially those with a one-piece flange, but open back banjos and beginner banjos may not have enough space and will require a different technique. Position the banjo in your lap so that the neck faces straight up and the strings face toward you. The neck of the banjo should represent the "12 o'clock" position of the instrument.


Check the bird's droppings. Look for discharge. If you notice or feel lumps or swollen parts of the bird's body, this is a problem in need of immediate veterinary attention. Be alert to any vomiting or regurgitation. Check the parakeet's eyes.

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Bird droppings consist of a dark solid portion called feces, chalky white urates, and clear urine. Normal droppings should not smell. Any change in color, consistency, or smell is a sign that something may be wrong.  If there is a bad odor in the cage, either from urine, droppings or another source, assume that the bird is not well.  Green or yellow discoloration may indicate liver disease while black or red may be a sign of internal bleeding.  Liquid feces usually indicate diarrhea. Wet feathers around the vent are another sign of diarrhea. If you see discharge from the nostrils, or crusted areas, the bird is ill.  This usually signals illness. If regurgitating the budgie may shake its head side to side and expel whole seeds. If vomiting the head will appear wet and may include mucous and seed. If they look sunken, droopy, cloudy or have changed color, these are signs of poor health or an illness. A healthy parakeet will have clear and alert eyes.


Check the care label to determine if the garment is a dyeable fabric. Choose a dye as close to the original color as possible. Protect your skin and work area from the dye. Fill a container with hot water that’s about 120–140 °F (49–60 °C). Dissolve the dye and salt in a small cup of water, then add them to the bath. Add the clothes and soak them for 30-60 minutes, stirring continuously. Take the clothing out of the dye and rinse it thoroughly in cold water. Wash the garment by itself in the washing machine on a cold cycle. Dry the garment to see the final color.

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Some fabrics accept dye better than others, so before you try to restore your clothing by dyeing it, take a look at the tag inside the item to see what it's made of. If the item is made from at least 60% natural fibers, like cotton, silk, linen, ramie, or wool, or if it’s made from rayon or nylon, it will probably dye well.  Clothing made from a blend of natural and synthetic fibers may not look as dark when they’re dyed as clothing made from an all-natural fabric. If the garment is made from acrylic, spandex, polyester, or metallic fibers, or if the tag says “Dry Clean Only,” it probably will not take dye well, if at all. If you want your garment to look as good as new, take it with you to a big box store or a craft or fabric store to choose the dye. Try to find the closest match you can, as this will give you the boldest, most natural-looking result. If you want to change the color of your garment, you’ll likely need to use a color stripper first. Cover your workspace with newspaper, tarp, or trash bags, so if any of the dye splashes, it won’t stain your table, counter, or floors. In addition, have some old rags or paper towels nearby just in you need to quickly clean up any spills. Then, put on old clothes and thick gloves so your clothes and skin don’t get stained. It’s important to protect your hands, because coming into contact with dye can irritate your skin. Most household water heaters are set to a maximum temperature of 120 °F (49 °C), although some are set to 140 °F (60 °C), so the hottest water from your tap should be sufficient. However, if you want hotter water, you can heat it on the stove to just below boiling, or about 200 °F (93 °C). Pour the water into a large pot, bucket, or tub, or fill a top-loading machine with water on the hottest setting.  You’ll need about 3 US gal (11 L) of water for every 1 lb (0.45 kg) of clothing. A bucket or pot is good for smaller items like thin tops, accessories, and children’s clothes. Use a plastic tub or washing machine for larger items like sweaters and...


Check the care label to see if your beanie is machine-washable. Put your beanie in a mesh laundry bag to prevent stretching. Add mild detergent to your washing machine. Select a delicate or hand-wash cycle to avoid damaging your hat. Use a temperature setting of 86 °F (30 °C) or less. Air-dry the hat instead of tumble-drying it. Reshape the beanie with your hands when it is damp.

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Look at your hat’s care label to see if it has specific washing instructions. Hats made from cotton, cotton blends, and synthetic fabrics like acrylic are the most likely to be machine-washable. Wool hats can often be washed in a machine, as well. If the label has been cut off and you can’t determine the material, you’re probably better off hand-washing your beanie. Beanies, particularly those made with wool, can be stretched by the motion of the washing machine. To prevent this from happening, use a netted or mesh wash bag. Depending on the type, zip it up or cinch the drawstring to keep the hat securely inside.  You can put the beanie in a  pillowcase if you don’t have wash bag. Just make sure to knot the top of the pillowcase before throwing it into the machine. It’s best to wash the beanie as part of a larger load of similarly-colored clothes, which will keep the hat from being tossed around an empty washing machine and becoming stretched or matted. Add the detergent into the exterior drawer of your machine rather than pouring it directly on the beanies to be washed. This could cause the hats to absorb most of the soap and result in an uneven wash. If you’re washing a wool hat, consider using a wool-specific detergent. Intense agitation can cause beanies to lose their shape, so stick with a hand wash or delicate setting on your washing machine, which uses a gentler spin to clean the clothes. Typically, delicate or hand-wash settings will be programmed to run with cold water. But if your washing machine doesn’t offer one of these settings, make sure you’ve selected a temperature setting of 85 °F (29 °C) or less. Hot water can potentially shrink your beanie. Lay your beanie flat on a dry towel or a mesh drying rack in a well-ventilated area. If it’s still soaking wet, you can roll it up in a dry towel to remove the excess water before lay it flat to dry completely. Avoid using a hair dryer on your beanie, which can be hot enough to cause shrinkage. This will ensure your hat returns to its original shape....


Check the care label. Hand-wash by giving it a bath. Machine-wash very briefly. Air-dry.

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If your blanket needs a thorough washing, always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Bring it to the dry cleaner if the care label says, “Dry Clean Only.” Otherwise, move on to the appropriate method if it says it’s okay to hand- or machine-wash. Washing a “dry clean only” blanket can cause it to shrink and become more abrasive. Add a drop of mild laundry detergent or two to your bathtub. Fill it with enough cold water to cover your blanket. Wait to see if any suds form before placing your blanket in the water. If they do, drain and repeat with less detergent. Then place your blanket in the water and let it soak for 15 minutes or longer.  Scrubbing or otherwise manhandling the blanket in the water can ruin the fibers, so “hand-washing” shouldn’t be taken too literally. Just let it soak so the water and soap do their thing and dislodge the dirt on their own. Too much detergent can remove the fibers’ natural oils, which means they won’t repel dirt as well anymore. This is why you don’t want to see any suds forming when you add water to the tub. If the blanket’s still dirty no matter how long it soaks, it will need to be dry-cleaned. As with hand-washing, you don’t want to rough the blanket up too much, so don’t put your blanket in for a full wash cycle. Add just a drop or two of mild laundry detergent to the basin and fill it with cold water. If no suds appear, place your blanket inside. If they do, drain the basin and try again with less detergent. Then, once you place the blanket inside:  Give it 15 minutes to soak in the soapy water. Start the washer’s “gentle” or “delicate” cycle. Stop the cycle after two minutes. Switch the cycle to “rinse.” Run the full “rinse” cycle. Regardless of which method you chose to wash your blanket, avoid using a machine to dry it whenever possible. Hang it up for the air to dry it instead. Avoid doing so in direct sunlight, however, since this can fade your blanket and damage the fibers.  Additionally, don’t wring any excess water out of your blanket when you remove it...


Check the clothing label Start your wash with only detergent before putting your clothes in. Add bleach to the water after 5 minutes. Add distilled white vinegar to your regular wash for a more natural solution. Use hydrogen peroxide in your regular wash for non-bleach whitening. Add dishwashing detergent to the washer as an alternative whitener. Use lemon juice along with detergent in the washer for an organic solution.

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to see if the garment is bleachable. Before applying any chemical products like bleach on your clothes, pay attention to the label instructions often sealed to the inner side of the fabric. Look for a triangle, which is a sign for using bleach.  If there are two lines inside the triangle, that stands for using only non-chlorine bleach. If there is a cross over the triangle, then do not bleach this garment, as it’s likely going to harm its fabric or color. See if it suggests machine washing, hand washing, or dry-cleaning. Wait for 5 minutes or until the water gets soapy. Waiting is important, since many detergents take several minutes to activate their enzymes, and bleach will cease this reaction. For an enhanced clean, add a 1/2 cup of baking soda in with the detergent. In general, add 1/2 cup (118.3 mL) of bleach to the water. Give the bleach a few minutes to settle before adding your clothing to the water.  Too much bleach can actually damage or yellow your whites, so measure the bleach and water carefully. Never add bleach on top of clothing. If you used baking soda with detergent, reduce the amount of bleach by half. After the cycle ends, check for any color changes in your clothes. If there is any, immediately rinse by hand. White vinegar helps remove dirt while softening fabrics naturally, eliminating the need for a chemical fabric softener. Simply use ½ to 1 cup of distilled white vinegar along with the detergent in your washer.  The vinegar scent will be present when the clothes are wet, but it will fade and dissipate as they dry. Do not use bleach along with vinegar, as their reaction will cause toxic chlorine gas. Use ½ cup of baking soda if you don’t have white vinegar for a similar effect. Since it doesn’t contain bleach, which might be harmful for some fabrics, hydrogen peroxide is a great alternative for whitening garments. Add ½ cup of hydrogen peroxide along with detergent in the washer. Use 3% solution hydrogen peroxide, which is readily available at many grocery stores or drug stores. Use...


Check the company's website for a legitimate telephone number and address. Browse the company's website for discrepancies and indicators of professionalism. Review the website's policy pages. Look for decent content. Consider how the company accepts payments.

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If there is no way to contact this company offline, this may be a red flag that the business is not legitimate. Since emails and domain names are easy to obtain, having an email address is not as trustworthy as offline contact information.  Remember that both phone numbers and addresses are now super easy to fake. There is a whole industry in providing fake area code and 800 numbers. Even Google now does this, so phone numbers are no longer a sign of a real company. Before doing business, call the local chamber of commerce associated with the address and see if they are a real bricks and mortar company, or simply a referral skimming internet company with a phony address. Search in other cities to see if a supposedly "local business" is using the same website for operations in other localities. You should be wary if you find the same supposedly local business page being used for another location. Usually these copied phony business web pages are used in many cities and are just copied templates. Many have broken hyperlinks for images and links, which is a tip-off that this may be a phony phishing business page. If a website says one thing in one spot, and then contradicts itself in another spot, that's a red flag that the business is not coordinated and may be a scam that was hastily thrown together. If the website is unprofessional (for example, there are stolen images and numerous spelling errors), this shows that little thought or care was put into creating the website, which could indicate a "get rich quick" scam. Legitimate companies will almost always have terms of use or terms and conditions pages, as well as privacy policy pages. If they do have terms and privacy policies, read through them carefully suspicious sounding language. Phony referral business sites usually don't have much content on their sites and usually have lots of legitimate company and BBB logos on their site to trick you into trusting them. A 'big' tip-off are stock photos or no photos of the company building, employees, or products....


Check the compatibility of your laptops. Plug in both ends of the firewire. Access the server computer through the client computer. Drag and drop files as normal.

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Both laptops will require a firewire input and you will need an appropriate firewire cord to connect them. This method makes the most sense if you are transferring between either two Macs or two PCs. If instead you are transferring between operating systems then look into a different method. Firewire plugs take a few different forms - double check you have the right cord and appropriate adaptors to fit both of your laptops before beginning. Use the client laptop (the one you want files transferred to) to find and access the server laptop (the one with the files). Once connected it should appear on the desktop or else where external drives normally appear. Now that your laptops are directly connected you can shift files as needed, similar to any other file management on your computer.


Check the condom to make sure it is still good. Reduce the likelihood of pregnancy and disease by using a condom during vaginal, anal, and oral sex. Put the condom on the penis when it is erect. Take the condom off while the penis is still erect. Stop sex and put on a new condom if it breaks in the middle. Use a polyurethane or polyisoprene condom if you are allergic to latex. Make sure your condoms will last until the expiration date.

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Condoms do not last forever.  Make sure the expiration date has not passed. Never used a condom after its expiration date. Examine the condom to make sure it is still intact. If it has small tears or stiff patches, get a new one. To be effective, the condom must be used during all times of genital contact.  Use lubrication to make sex more enjoyable and reduce the chances of the condom breaking. Use only water-based lubricants with a condom. Examples include Astroglide and K-Y jelly. Oil-based lubricants may break down the latex, increasing the chances of the condom breaking. Don’t use body or massage oils, vaseline, or cooking oils as lubricants. If you start to put the condom on inside out, don’t turn it around and start again. Use a new condom. Make sure to use a condom for the entire sexual encounter.  Start with the rolled up condom at the tip of the penis. The rolled side should be out. Pinch the tip of the condom and hold it in place while you unroll the condom until it covers the entire length of the penis. There should be about a half an inch of space at the tip to catch semen during ejaculation. If you are unfamiliar with how to properly put on a condom, practice on a banana or a model penis. Hold the base of the penis while you gently and carefully remove the condom.  Do not spill the semen inside the condom. Dispose of the condom in the trash. A broken condom does not offer protection. Don’t use a lambskin condom. It won’t protect against sexually transmitted diseases. A latex allergy is the only reason that a doctor will tell you not to use a latex condom. There are no other health considerations or concerns that would indicate that you should not use one during a sexual encounter. Keep them in a place where they won’t be exposed to heat, sunlight or physical stress. These conditions can weaken the condoms.  Don’t carry condoms in your wallet or pants pocket. The friction and bending will weaken the condoms. This will make them more likely to break or get small holes. Glove compartments of cars...


Check the cut and style of your hood. Note the color of the lining of your hood. Open the hood. Put the hood over your head. Turn the satin part of the hood outward at the neck.

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Depending on your degree level, the cut and style of your hood will fluctuate in size and cut.  The Bachelor’s hood is about three feet long, has a black fabric shell, and a satin lining. Most Bachelor’s hoods are “Oxford Burgon cut”, which are lined on the inside with satin fabric in the color associated with your discipline or university. The Master’s hood is three and a half feet long, has a black fabric shell, and a satin lining. The Doctoral hood is four feet long, has a black fabric shell, and a satin lining. The Master’s hood and the Doctoral hood are usually designed to lie flat against your back, making it easier to stay in position when worn. Most Master’s and Doctoral hoods will have a black shell, with velvet trim that extends around your neck, over your shoulders, and down your back. Though there are standard colors for each department or discipline (such as green for Medicine, dark blue for Philosophy, and purple for Law), your institution will determine what color your discipline receives. The chosen color for your discipline will be featured on the edge of your hood. In the case of a Master’s or Doctoral hood, the colored satin will be on the back portion of the hood, by the velvet stripe. The point of the hood should be pointing towards the ground. It should be all black on the outside when you open it.  The tip of the hood will drape down your back. The “V” section of the hood will sit on your chest. The opening of the hood will rest on your shoulders. Note that some universities hood their Master’s and Doctor’s graduates on stage. If you are a Master’s or Doctoral graduate, you may not have a hood until the graduation ceremony. The “V” section should sit across your chest. Do not put your arms through the “V”. Just your head and chest area should be covered by the hood. You may need to ask someone for assistance for this step. A thin line of color should be visible around your neck. You should also turn the hood outward at your back so the colored satin line is visible at the back. If the...


Check the dashboard. Look in front of the engine block. Check the front of the car frame. Pick up the spare tire. Check the driver-side door. Peek in the rear wheel well. Call the dealership or manufacturer.

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Most VIN plates appear on the lower left-hand side of the dashboard. Sit in the driver’s seat and look on the dashboard in front of the steering wheel. Alternately, you might be able to see the VIN easier by standing outside the vehicle and looking through the windshield.  The VIN should have 17 characters if the car was manufactured after 1981. Vehicles manufactured before that date had VINs from 11 to 17 characters.  A typical VIN might read 1HGBM22JXMN109186. Pop open the hood and check the front of the engine. Some manufacturers affix a body plate that contains the VIN or a partial VIN (typically the last eight characters).  This plate should be attached to the firewall inside the engine compartment. Sometimes, the VIN will appear on the car frame, near the windshield washer container. You should crouch down in front of the car on the driver’s side and check. The VIN sometimes appears underneath the spare tire, which is usually in the trunk. Pick up the tire to check. The VIN should also appear on the Federal Safety Certification Label which is in all new cars. This label should appear on the driver’s side door in the following places:  On the driver-side doorpost. With the door open, check the spot where the door latches. It should be near the seatbelt return. Inside the driver-side doorjamb. Open the door and look straight ahead. The VIN should be inside the doorjamb, where the mirror is located when the door is shut. Crouch down beside the car, near the rear wheel on the driver’s side. Look up into the well, above the tire. The VIN might be located there, inside the wheel well. Call if you’ve looked everywhere but couldn’t find the VIN. Give them the make and model of your car and ask where the VIN is located. They should be able to help.


Check the degree of your polynomial. Plug your numbers into the axis of symmetry formula. Write down the equation of the axis of symmetry.

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The degree (or “order”) of a polynomial is simply the largest exponent value in the expression. If the degree of your polynomial is 2 (there is no exponent larger than x2), you can find the axis of symmetry using this method. If the degree of the polynomial is higher than 2, use Method 2. To illustrate, take, as an example, the polynomial 2x2 + 3x – 1. This highest exponent present is the x2, so it is a 2nd order polynomial, and you can use this first method to find the axis of symmetry. To calculate the axis of symmetry for a 2nd order polynomial in the form ax2 + bx +c (a parabola), use the basic formula x = -b / 2a. In the example above, a = 2 b = 3, and c = -1. Insert these values into your formula, and you will get:x = -3 / 2(2) = -3/4. The value you calculated with your axis of symmetry formula is the x-intercept of the axis of symmetry. In the example above, the axis of symmetry is -3/4.


Check the denominators (bottom numbers) of each fraction. Here are two example problems we'll work on in this section. Take the two numerators (top numbers) and add them up. Start putting together your new fraction. Simplify if necessary.

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If they are the same number, then you're dealing with fractions that have the same denominator. If not, skip to the section down below. By the last step, you should understand how they were added together.   Ex. 1: 1/4 + 2/4  Ex. 2: 3/8 + 2/8 + 4/8 The numerator is the number on top of the fraction. However many fractions you have, if they have the same bottom numbers, add up all the top numbers.   Ex. 1: 1/4 + 2/4 is our equation. "1" and "2" are the numerators. That means 1 + 2 = 3.  Ex. 2: 3/8 + 2/8 + 4/8 is our equation. "3" and "2" and "4" are the numerators. That means 3 + 2 + 4 = 9. Take the sum of the numerators you got in Step 2; that sum will be your new numerator. Take the denominator that was the same for each fraction. Don't do anything to it. This is your new denominator; it will always be the same as the old denominator when you add fractions with the same denominators.   Ex. 1: 3 is our new numerator, and 4 is our new denominator. This gives us an answer of 3/4. 1/4 + 2/4 = 3/4.  Ex. 2: 9 is our new numerator, and 8 is our new denominator. This gives us an answer of 9/8. 3/8 + 2/8 + 4/8 = 9/8. Simplify the new fraction to make sure it's written as simply as possible. If the numerator is bigger than the denominator, like it is in Ex. 2, that means we can take out at least one whole number. Divide the top number by the bottom number. When we divide 9 by 8, we get 1 whole number and a remainder of 1. Put the whole number out in front of the fraction and the remainder in the numerator of the new fraction, leaving the denominator the same.9/8 = 1 1/8.


Check the dipstick on the automatic transmission.

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Check the owner's manual for the correct procedure for your vehicle — generally, manufacturers prefer testing with a warm engine. Be sure to check the fluid when parked on a level surface.  Do your best to not allow any lint or dirt to contaminate the dip stick before reinserting.


Check the expiration date of the individually wrapped condom. Look at the condition of the packaging. Press on the wrapper. Squish and slide the wrapper to the side.

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Even if you purchased the condoms recently, check the expiration date before you use one. If the condom has expired, then do not use it. An expired condom is more likely to break than one that is in date. There should be no tears or holes in the package. If there is a hole in the wrapper, the condom may have dried out, rendering it ineffective and likely to break. You should feel a little bit of air resistance from inside the package. This means the package has not been torn or punctured and your condom is good to go. While still pressing on the wrapper, gently push it the condom inside for a side-slide motion. This slight movement indicates that the lubricant inside has not dried out and, as long as the expiry date has not been passed, is still good.  This slide test only works for lubricated condoms. Unlubricated condoms will not slide in the package but you can still do the air resistance test. A dried out condom will weaken, crack, and break, exposing you to your partner's fluids, potential pregnancy and sexually transmitted infections.


Check the expiration date on the box at the store. Store the condoms properly. Keep condoms out of the glove compartment of your car. Use a new condom each time.

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Look before you buy to make sure that the condoms you're about to purchase haven't expired. Do not purchase or use expire condoms.   Expiration dates should have a month and year. Expired condoms weaken over time and may easily break. Do not use an expired condom. Keep your condoms in a cool, dry place, away from heat and sunshine. Also, don't shove them in your wallet where they can be crumpled and bent. Never place condoms in the back pocket of your pants. Sitting on condoms may damage them. The temperature in your car may range from hot, to cold, to humid and this can cause damage to condoms. Never reuse a condom. Repeated use can cause breakage and leftover bodily fluids may also leak out. Throw away the condom after you use it and get a new one the next time you need one.


Check the fabric label. Run the empty dryer on low heat for 3 to 5 minutes. Spritz the tulle with water. Dry the tulle for 5 minutes. Remove the tulle and hang it up.

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If you're trying to remove wrinkles from an article of clothing that has tulle attached, read the clothing's fabric label. If the clothing is made with another delicate fabric, you shouldn't put it in the dryer. For example, don't use the dryer if you want to remove the wrinkles from a wool dress with tulle embellishments since wool will shrink in the dryer.  Avoid using the dryer to remove wrinkles from large items of clothing such as wedding dresses. Don't use the dryer if your tulle has rhinestone, pearl, or lace glued onto it. Plain fabrics with tulle such as plain tutus or veils with no embellishments are safe to put in the dryer. Turn the dryer to its lowest heat setting and turn it on without putting the tulle into it. Run the dryer for 3 to 5 minutes so it warms up. Some dryers have a delicate setting, which is the lowest heat setting. Take a spray bottle full of water and spray the tulle with several spritzes of water. The tulle or clothing item should feel slightly damp. This moisture will create steam in the dryer, which will release the wrinkles. Put the tulle or clothing into the warm dryer and turn it back on to its lowest setting. Dry the tulle until it becomes smooth. Don't dry the tulle for more than 5 minutes or it can dry out and become stiff. You can put the tulle into the dryer by itself as long as you've spritzed it with water first. Turn off the dryer and immediately remove the warm tulle. Hang it up on a hanger or clip and let it dry completely. The wrinkles should fade once the tulle is cool.


Check the festival website for specific guidelines. Don't forget your festival tickets and parking passes. Purchase several large water bottles. Protect yourself from the sun with sunscreen and sunglasses. Pack plenty of toiletries. Print your own copy of the festival schedule. Purchase a portable battery charger for your cell phone.

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Visit the FAQ page of your particular website and make note of the festival rules. Make a list of things that are not allowed at the festival, as some will not allow you to bring in outside food and drinks, or may have specific rules for outdoor camping. Keep this list in mind as you pack, and stay within the festival's guidelines. The very first thing you should pack is your festival ticket, as you will not be able to enter the festival without it. Put your tickets and parking passes in a safe place, either in your car or in a special pocket. Double check the festival's website to find out if there is any other paperwork you will need.   Your tickets may be mailed to you in advance, or you may be able to print them online. If the festival uses electronic tickets, be sure to have your cell charged and on hand when you enter the festival. Check the festival's website to see if there are water stations throughout the festival, as this will dictate how much water you need to bring yourself. Bring 2 or 3 water bottles to refill and carry with you throughout the festival. Purchase enough containers of water to last each day if the festival does not provide fill up stations.  CamelBak packs can be great for festivals because they're hydration packs that allow you to carry water that can be obtained through an attached tube. Getting stranded at an outdoor festival without sunscreen can lead to bad sunburns, so bring enough sunscreen for the trip. Consider bringing two or three bottles to share with friends if you are attending a multiple-day festival. Being outside for multiple days also means that your eyes are at risk from sun damage, so bring two pairs of sunglasses. You never know when you may lose a pair while dancing. The SPF content of your sunscreen is up to you, but purchasing higher SPF levels will mean you can apply it less often. Bring 2 or 3 bottles of hand sanitizer and apply it after using the restroom and before eating. Pack wet wipes to clean your hands if they get dirty, and to wipe any mud or...


Check the fit. Clean the pessary regularly. Clean the pessary if it falls out. Schedule frequent appointments with your doctor.

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A properly fit, properly placed pessary should not feel uncomfortable. In fact, it should hardly be felt at all.  You should also check the fit by bearing down or attempting to use the bathroom. The pessary should not fall out during either action, and you should not have any difficulties using the bathroom after placement. If altering the placement of your pessary does not resolve any discomfort or other problems, the pessary may not be the right size or style. You will need to consult your doctor at this point. You should remove the pessary at least once a week and clean it before inserting it back into place.  Ideally, you should remove the pessary and clean it once a day. Some women may even choose to remove it at night, clean it, and re-insert it in the morning, but you should check with your doctor to verify that leaving it out overnight is acceptable for your condition. When cleaning the pessary, use mild soap and warm water. Rinse the device and dry it with clean paper towels before inserting it again. If you are unable to easily remove and insert the pessary on your own, you should go to the doctor every three months for professional examination and cleansing. Never leave a pessary in for more than three consecutive months without cleaning it. While you should be able to urinate without difficulty, the pessary may fall out during a bowel movement. If it does, you will need to clean it thoroughly before inserting it again.  Check the toilet after each bowel movement to determine whether or not the pessary has fallen out. If the pessary did fall out, scrub it clean with mild soap and hot water. Allow the pessary to soak in rubbing alcohol for 20 minutes, then soak the device in clean water for another 20 minutes. Wash it once more with soap and water, rinse it, then dry it before inserting it into the vagina again. Even if you are able to remove, clean, and insert the pessary at home, you should still schedule an examination with your doctor every three to six months.  Your first examination should...


Check the flow of fluid into the IV. Change the dressing as needed. Remove the IV safely. Know IV-related complications.

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Open the IV roller clamp and look for drips forming in the drip chamber. Check that the IV is infusing into the vein by occluding the vein (pressing down on it to block its flow) distal to the site of the IV (away from the torso). The flow of drips should slow and stop, then restart flowing when you stop occluding the vein. IVs left in for an extended period of time are at a greater risk of infection than IVs used only for a single operation or procedure. To reduce the risk of infection, it's important to carefully remove the dressing, clean the site of the IV, and put a new dressing in place. In general, transparent dressings should be changed roughly weekly, while gauze dressings should be changed more frequently because they don't allow observation of the IV site. Don't forget to wash your hands and wear a fresh pair of gloves every time you touch a patient's IV site. This is especially important for when you're changing dressings, as the use of long-term IV connections is associated with an increased rate of infection. To remove an IV, first, close the roller clamp to stop the flow of fluid. Gently remove the tape and dressing to expose the catheter hub and IV site. Place a clean piece of gauze over the IV site and apply delicate pressure as you pull the catheter out, slowly. Instruct the patient to hold the gauze in place to stop the flow of blood. You may want to secure the gauze over the puncture site with tape or a bandage, such as Coban. However, with gentle pressure, for most patients, bleeding will stop quickly enough that this isn't absolutely necessary. Though IVs are usually safe procedures, there is always a very small but real chance that complications will result from the IV. It's important to know the most common signs of IV complications to be able to provide the best care to the patient and, if need, to know when to get emergency care. Some IV complications (and their symptoms are below: Infiltration: Occurs when fluid is injected outside of the vein into surrounding soft tissue. Will...


Check the forecast. Pay attention to posted warnings. Talk to the lifeguard. Know how to identify a rip current. Look up example images online. Stay away from structures that extend away from the beach.

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In the U.S., The National Weather Service website posts rip current predictions for select beaches. In most other countries, the weather forecast near popular beach destinations will include a surf forecast. Rip currents can appear even on a calm day, but they are more dangerous when waves are high.  Distant hurricanes can contribute to "flash rip currents," short-lived and unpredictable events. Hurricane warning centers may post rip current warnings for some areas, even if they do not experience any other effects of the storm. Consider checking the tide forecast as well. Rip currents tend to be strongest within a couple hours before and after a low tide. When you arrive at the beach, look for posted warning signs. If you are a weak swimmer or if there are no lifeguards on duty, you may want to avoid the water entirely on high risk days. Rip currents can occur in any conditions, but the warning signs give you a good estimate of risk. Some warnings are posted using this international flag system:  Yellow: moderate surf or currents. Weak swimmers discouraged from entering water. Red: strong surf or currents. All swimmers discouraged. Two red flags: beach closed to swimmers. Red and white checkers: emergency evacuation. Two flags, each one half red and half yellow: the area between these flags is supervised by lifeguards. Swimmers should not leave these bounds. Lifeguards may know where rip currents are likely to form, and whether there have been any today. Don't hesitate to ask for advice. Lifeguards may also issue warnings when a rip current is sighted, or ask swimmers to steer clear of a dangerous area. Pay attention to them. There are a number of ways you can identify a possible rip current without actually getting in it. A rip current is a relatively narrow channel of water, seldom more than 50–100 feet (15.2–30.5 m) in width, usually running from the beach straight out to the sea. Since you cannot see the whole shape of the current from the shore, look for a streak of water with one or more of these...


Check the format of the movie file you want to add. Download and install Adapter. Drag your video files into the Adapter window. Click the Output menu at the bottom of the window. Select "Video" → "General" → "Custom MP4." Click the Gear button to see additional settings. Click "Convert" to begin converting the videos. Find your converted files.

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iTunes only supports the MP4 (M4V) and MOV formats. It does not support many popular formats, including AVI, MKV, and WMV. If your video files are not the proper format, you won't be able to add them to your iTunes library. Check your video's format before proceeding. If it is an incompatible format, follow this section to convert it to a compatible one. If the video is already in MP4, M4V, or MOV format, skip down to the next section.  Windows - Right-click on the video file and select "Properties." Check the "Type of file" line in the General tab for the file format. Mac - Control-click the file and select "Get Info." Check the "Kind" line in the General section of the Show Info window. This is a freeware video conversion program from Macroplant that can quickly convert your video files to an iTunes-compatible format. It is available for both Windows and Mac. As long as you download Adapter from macroplant.com/adapter/, you shouldn't have to worry about adware. During installation, make sure to keep the "Download and install FFmpeg" box checked. This is required for the conversion process. FFmpeg is open-source and adware-free. You can drag all of the files that you want to convert, or just add single files at a time. You can also click the "Browse" button in the Adapter window and navigate to the files you want to convert. This will allow you to select what format you want to convert to. This will set Adapter to convert your files to the MP4 format, which is compatible with iTunes. If you're adding these videos to iTunes so that you can sync them with your iOS device, select the preset for your iPhone, iPad, or iPod in the "Apple" section of the Output menu. This menu will allow you to adjust some of your settings before converting.  You can change the destination for your converted files at the top of the menu. The "Quality" menu in the Resolution section will allow you to set the quality of the image after conversion. "Medium" is the default setting, which will result in a smaller file size with a minor...


Check the format of the video you want to add. Download and install Handbrake. Launch Handbrake. Click the "Source" button. Select how you want to add the file(s). Click the . Select the "Universal" preset in the right frame. Click the "Start" button. Test the converted video.

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iTunes only supports a few different video formats: .mov, .m4v, and .mp4. Beyond that, the files need to be able to play in QuickTime (not all .mp4 files will play in Quicktime, for example).  Right-click on the video you want to check and select "Properties" (Windows) or "Get Info" (OS X). Look for the "Type of file" or "Kind" entry. If the file is an .mkv, .wmv, or .avi file, it will need to be converted. Test the file in QuickTime. If the file is a supported format, load it up in QuickTime to make sure it plays. If it doesn't play, you'll need to convert it. If it works, you can skip down to importing the video. This is a free, open-source video conversion program without any adware, available for Windows and OS X. It is also one of the easiest and quickest ways to convert video files to an iTunes-compatible format.   You can download HandBrake from handbrake.fr. It is best to avoid websites that claim to convert videos for you online. They often have file size limits and uploading and downloading the video can take a significant amount of bandwidth. After installing, you should be able to find a shortcut on your desktop or in your Applications folder. It may look a little confusing, but you'll be ignoring most of the advanced options when performing quick conversions for iTunes. This is located in the upper-right corner, and will prompt you to select a file to convert. If you have multiple files you want to convert, select the Folder option. All of the files will need to be located in the same folder. If you are converting a single video, select the File option and browse for the file. Browse button next to the Destination field. This will allow you to set a destination folder for the converted video. You will need to type a name for the file as well. If you don't see the Presets frame, click the Presets menu and select "Show Presets Panel".  The "Universal" preset will convert any video into an .mp4 format that can be imported into iTunes. HandBrake will begin converting the file into the new format....


Check the freezer. Check the vegetables. Check fake bottles. Look at appliances.

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The freezer is just a very odd place to hide things because of the temperature. Some items can be ruined in the freezer, and there isn't a lot of room for storage. Think about smaller items that won't be affected by the temperatures.  Mini-sized items fit perfectly in frozen vegetable bags. They know you don't like broccoli, so they put what they want to hide where you'd least want to go. Hiding something in a frozen dessert would be a clever choice. A box of ice cream sandwiches is prime for hiding things. Your parents know you want desserts and aren't allowed to have them without permission. More than likely have an idea of how much is left. Check behind the ice. If there are ice cube trays, move them and check underneath or behind. Also, some older freezers get a bit of ice buildup in them, a great spot to hide something small like a charger. Believe it or not, there are safes and hiding spots made to look just like food. Books, cases, and folders are way more obvious than food hiding locations.  Who would even think about hiding something inside a head of lettuce? Well, it's been done.  Frozen bags of vegetables are very tricky locations to hide from kids. Parents know you're very unlikely to look there. Look behind vegetables in the pantry. Vegetables are often bunched together, which would make a prime hiding spot for kids who don't like vegetables. The fact there are so many options makes the hiding spot time-consuming to discover. They may have even wrapped the hidden contents in bubble-wrap so there is no noise.  Sniff the spices. Emptied coffee cans or spice jars are great diversion safes. They're fairly common, but really difficult to find since there are so many spices. Shake pill bottles. Emptied out medicine bottles are brilliant spots for tiny items or rolls of money. Check their medicine cabinet or maybe even a potted plant.  Squirt some lotion. An emptied-out lotion bottle is an ideal location for spare keys, small remotes, cell phones, and credit cards. Your parents already know you're not...


Check the fridge’s horizontal positioning with a spirit level. Turn the level front-to-back and confirm the fridge leans back slightly. Remove the grille from the bottom front of the appliance. Turn the adjustable legs and use your level to position the fridge correctly.

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Position the level side-to-side on the fridge’s interior floor. If necessary, pull out one or both of the crisper drawers at the bottom so you can access the interior floor. Don’t put the level on one of the shelves—unless it’s just not possible to access the interior floor—since these may be slightly out of level on their own.  For optimum performance, the fridge should be completely level from side to side. A simple spirit level (also called a carpenter’s level), which uses a bubble encased in a tube of liquid, is ideal for this task. The back of the fridge should be 0.25–0.5 in (0.64–1.27 cm) lower than the front, as this aids both in drainage and in keeping the door closed tightly. If the bubble in the level is halfway inside and halfway outside of the near-side line on the tube that denotes perfect leveling, the fridge is probably leaning back properly.  When the level is in fact level, the bubble should be centered between the level lines like this: |o|  When the level is slightly out of level to show that the fridge is leaning back properly, the bubble and level lines should look more like this: | ф  If possible, check the fridge’s product guide for the ideal amount of drop from front to back. In most cases, giving the grille a good pull should pop it out of place. Some fridges, though, may use screws to secure the grille in place. Once the grill is out of the way, you’ll be able to see the 2 front legs of the refrigerator. Check the product guide if you’re having trouble figuring out how to remove the grille. Adjust the jaw of a crescent wrench so it fits snugly over one of the legs. Turn the leg clockwise to shorten it and counterclockwise to lengthen it. Repeat on the other side so the legs match. In most cases, you’ll be able to make the necessary adjustments with just the front legs.  For example, if the fridge isn’t leaning back enough, lifting the front legs evenly should do the trick. Regularly use your level to confirm that the fridge’s interior floor is level from side-to-side and sloped from...


Check the fuel pump fuse. Check the voltage at the pump itself. Perform a drop test using a voltmeter

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Often, it's not the pump itself that fails to function, but the power that supplies it. Check in your owner's manual for the location of the fuse box, then find the fuse that corresponds to the fuel pump. Pull it out and inspect it for signs of failure. If the fuse is blown, it will be broken or burned. If it looks good, check the rest of the fuses related to the fuel system for signs of being blown and replace them, if necessary. If no fuses are blown, have a helper turn the key while you listen for fuel pump relay clicking on.  If you need to replace a fuse, make sure you use one with a proper amp rating, never installing one with more amps than necessary.  If you find a blown fuse, that might be a sign that you've got a high amp draw and you need to check the individual circuits. Try to replace the blown fuel fuse and try and start vehicle. If the fuse blows again, a direct short is present and will need to be diagnosed. Take your car into the shop to get it checked out. Just because you're getting juice from the circuit doesn't mean that it's getting to the pump itself, which makes it important to check the voltage there as well. Check out your vehicle's service manual to find out where to check and the proper procedure for checking it.  Test for source voltage, to determine whether or not the good charge that's leaving the fuse is getting to the pump. If no power is making it to the fuel pump, then check the fuel pump relay circuit. You could have a bad relay. . Check to make sure that the power wire shows the full voltage and the grounding wire shows that it's grounded properly. If this electrical test reveals nothing, it's likely that your fuel pump is the problem and it will need to be replaced, though you can check more thoroughly by completing an additional pressure test. If you show more than one volt difference, that means you've got a problem with corroded wires, or that you've got issues with the circuit on either the positive or negative side. Take it into the shop for further testing and advice.


Check the garbage disposal if you're in the kitchen. Place the plunger over the drain. Fill the area with a few inches of water. Work the handle of the plunger up and down with force. Yank up hard when you hear noises or feel like the pressure is changing. Test the drain and repeat as needed.

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Before plunging a kitchen sink, see if the clog is in the garbage disposal; if it's not draining on that side, that's your problem. You can plunge that side first to see if it clears the area, but you may need to unplug the garbage disposal and turn the blades manually to clear the disposal.  To turn the blades manually, make sure the disposal is unplugged, then insert an Allen wrench into the bottom of the disposal. Turn it clockwise to help get the blades moving. If you have a dishwasher, clamp off the drainage hose right near the disposal. It's a flexible hose, so the clamp will keep the gross water from going into the dishwasher. Make sure the mouth of the plunger completely covers the hole. This part of the plunger should be making contact with the basin all around the plunger.  In a sink or tub, you can rub the edge of the plunger with petroleum jelly to get a better seal. You likely want to keep a dedicated plunger for drains and a separate one for toilets. In the toilet, make sure you're covering the hole in the bottom of the bowl when plunging. Don't use a plunger immediately after using a chemical drain cleaner. You may get serious burns if the chemicals splash on your skin. If you're in the bathtub, shower, or sink, turn on the faucet. In the toilet, remove the tank cover at the top and lift up the rubber flapper to release some water into the toilet bowl. The water will help you get a better seal. When you put the plunger over the drain, move the head of the plunger around so that it fills with water. That way, you push water down the drain instead of air. If you're working on a kitchen sink, use a gloved hand to hold a cloth over the opposite drain. That will make your plunging more effective. This movement will create suction and hopefully move the clog. At this point, don't pull so hard that you break the seal. You want the seal to stay in place as you plunge the drain/toilet bowl. When you think you've mostly got the clog moved, yank up on the plunger quickly, pulling it off the drain to...


Check the label for cleaning instructions. Repeat the process if necessary. Do a spot test first.

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If a garment still has a manufacturer's label in place, make sure to read this before doing laundry. You want to make sure there are no specific cleaning instructions. For example, some garments should only be washed in cold water. If the stain does not come out the first time using either method, try again. Sometimes, dry erase stains can be difficult to remove. It may take two attempts to remove the stain. Some clothing may react poorly to Murphy's oil, rubbing alcohol, or white vinegar. Test the cleaning product you're using on a small patch of the clothing and wait about an hour. If the patch of clothing does not appear discolored or damaged, it is safe to use that substance to remove the stain.


Check the label on the screen for the manufacturer’s label and model number. Buy a replacement screen online or at a computer parts store. Place the screen in the metal frame on the laptop. Reconnect the cables to the new screen.

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There should be a label on the side or back of the screen that has a bar code as well as the manufacturer’s label and the model number of the computer. The model number is usually a series of letters and numbers. Use the manufacturer’s label and the model number to order a replacement screen for the laptop. For example, if your manufacturer’s label is Dell and the model number is DE156FW1, you can search this information to find the right replacement screen. Search online retailers like eBay and Amazon for a replacement screen. Make sure the replacement screen is the same manufacturer and model number so it will fit in your laptop correctly.  You can also buy a replacement screen at a computer parts store, but it may be more expensive than buying it online. The cost of the screen will depend on the brand and type of laptop. Replacement screens can range in price from $100-$300 USD. Once you get the replacement screen, set it in place in the metal frame. Make sure it is facing the right way and slides easily into the frame. Have the bezel screws and rubber covers on hand in a bag or bowl so you can put them on the new screen. Use your fingers to carefully attach the video cable and the power cable onto the back of the new screen. Check that the cables are secure and fit properly onto the new screen. If you got the right manufacturer and model number, the cables should fit properly.


Check the label to make sure it’s safe to machine wash your shoes. Use a scrub brush to brush away any visible clumps of dirt. Remove the laces and treat dirty sections with laundry detergent. Put the shoes into a mesh bag and wash them along with towels. Run a gentle cycle with cool water. Let the pair of shoes air dry. Reassemble the shoes once everything is completely dry.

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Most sneakers can be cleaned in the washing machine, but it’s always a good idea to double-check beforehand. If the label says “hand wash only,” you may want to consider cleaning the shoes by hand. If your shoes don’t have a label, search the brand online to get cleaning recommendations. If your shoes have any leather or suede, it is not a good idea to machine wash them, as the water can damage those parts of the shoes. Preferably, do this over a trash can or outside to keep the dirt from getting all over your floor. If the dirt is wet, let it dry completely first. Dry dirt brushes away more easily than wet dirt does. Removing as much dirt as possible before washing the shoes will help them get cleaner in the washing machine. Check them out to see if there are any areas that are particularly dirty. If so, take a little bit of laundry detergent and use your fingers to rub it into the shoelaces. This pretreating will help the dirt come out more easily. Put the laces into their own small mesh bag to keep them from wrapping around other items when they’re in the wash. If you don’t have mesh laundry bags, you can buy them online or at department stores for about $10. Put the bag with your shoes in it, the one with the laces, and a load of towels into the washing machine. Washing the shoes along with towels keeps the shoes from banging around in the washing machine, which could potentially damage your shoes or the machine itself. Use the same amount of detergent you normally would, and avoid using hot water. Choose the gentle cycle if you have the option. Don’t overdo it on the detergent. Excess detergent can cause soap residue to build up on your shoes, making them stiff and possibly even staining them. You can put them in front of a dehumidifier, a fan, or an open window, but avoid putting them in front of any type of heat source or into the dryer. If the shoes have insoles, take them out and let them dry separately to speed up the process.  You might be tempted to toss your sneakers into the dryer so you can...


Check the label to see if the clothing is washer-friendly. Turn the hoodie inside out. Wash the hoodie with similar pieces of clothing. Use cold water and mild detergent when washing your hoodie.

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Most cotton or cotton-blend hoodies are machine washable. Wool, however, is not as tough as cotton and the fabric will get damaged in a washing machine and ruin the hoodie. If your hoodie is made of wool, you’ll need to take it to the dry cleaners. You can dry clean cotton, but since it’s tougher it can be machine washed many times. Make sure to zip any zippers before doing so to keep them from snagging on other pieces of clothing in the washer. Washing the hoodie this way not only cleans the inside material, it protects the finish of the outside of the hoodie. When you turn the hoodie inside out, don’t forget to pull the hood and sleeves out of the middle of the garment. Otherwise, they won’t get cleaned properly! To prevent color transfer, wash the hoodie with items that have a similar color. Do not wash your hoodie with towels, as the lint from the towels can end up sticking to the hoodie. Try to wash your hoodie in a smaller load to clean it as well as you can. This will help the hoodie keep its appearance for as long as possible. Mild detergent is gentle on the material, while cold water helps it keep its shape. If you use hot water, the material will shrink. Pick the delicate cycle on your washing machine to keep the material safe. Consult the hoodie’s care tag label to see how much detergent you should use.


Check the labels on the clothing. Sort clothes into ‘colors’ and ‘whites or lights’ piles. Pre-treat any stains you find. Use hydrogen peroxide to get blood out of clothes. Use a detergent rub or stain stick for mud, dirt, grass, food, or juice stains.

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On both children and adult clothing, there is generally a label that explains how the item should best be washed. You may find that aside from saying that it’s ok to wash this article of clothing in the washer and dryer, there might also be specific instructions, like ‘wash with like colors’ or ‘turn inside out before washing’. Following these instructions can help to help your child’s clothes to look new for a longer period of time. Some of your toddler’s clothes may say ‘hand wash only’. If you find that this is the case, you can either  wash your child’s clothes by hand, or take them to the dry cleaners. In order to keep the clothes from bleeding on each other in the wash, they have to be sorted by colors.  All the white clothes (like undershirts and underwear) can be washed together. Some colors are fine to be washed together.  Navy blue and black can be washed together as they are very similar. If there are pastel colors that will not bleed onto other colors, they can all be washed together. Denim should be washed alone. Most of the time, denim is the most likely to bleed onto other items, so all denim items can go in one load together. Toddlers have a tendency to stain their clothes. If this happens, you will most likely need to pre-treat the stain to make sure that it actually comes out of the clothes. There are different ways to pre-treat different stains which are described in the following steps. If the toddler has blood on his/her clothes, treat it with hydrogen peroxide. Pour some hydrogen peroxide into a small cup (or the lid of the peroxide container). Dip a cotton swab into the peroxide. Use the cotton swab to rub the peroxide into the blood stain. Doing this will help to release the blood from the fabric before it is put into the main wash. A detergent rub can be made with a little detergent and some water. It should be about the consistency of a paste so that the detergent is not completely dissolved in the water. Rub it into the stain and let it set for a short period of time before you wash...


Check the labels. Assemble your cleaning equipment. Vacuum the furniture. Fill the spray bottle with your cleaner. Test the furniture. Clean the furniture. Let the furniture dry. Brush the fabric. Keep your microsuede furniture clean.

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Furniture labels will often provide you with a code that tells you how to clean—and how not to clean—your furniture upholstery. Microsuede will generally have one of three labels:  W, which means wash with water-based cleaners. S, which means wash with solvent-based cleaners. SW, which means you can use either water-based or solvent-based cleaners. Your main cleaning agent will be isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, or another clear alcohol, such as vodka. Alternatively, if your furniture has a W or SW code, you can also use a solution made of water and mild soap or detergent. However, microsuede is prone to watermarking, so alcohol is recommended since it dries quickly. Along with your cleaning agent, you’ll also need a:  Clean, empty spray bottle White or undyed sponge, towel, or cloth that’s both clean and dry Soft-bristled brush Vacuum cleaner You can also use baby wipes because they contain alcohol. Remove the cushions and use a soft-brush attachment to vacuum up crumbs, dust, and other debris. Pick up large debris with your hands. Be sure to get into all the nooks, crannies, and cracks, and vacuum the cushions as well. Use alcohol for any furniture, or if you prefer (with W and SW furniture), mix about one-half ounce (one tablespoon) of mild liquid soap or detergent with 33 ounces (one liter) of water. Shake well. Find an inconspicuous area that’s out of sight and do a test patch with your cleaning agent. Spray a small spot with the alcohol or soap solution, dab it with a clean cloth, and let it dry. After an hour or so, check to see that the cleaner hasn’t caused any:  Discoloring Changes to the texture (a little stiffness in the fabric is normal) Color bleeding Fabric shrinkage Spray a small area or a single stain with a minimal amount of cleaner (this will prevent watermarks). Use your clean cloth or sponge to wipe the area down, blotting stains and soiled spots. Rotate your cloth often to a clean spot so you aren’t just spreading dirt around.  Work in small patches or tackle one stain at a time until the...


Check the labels. Sort delicates by type. Organize delicates by color. Keep delicates fastened. Pre-treat stains. Add small piles of sorted delicates in mesh bags.

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Before you get started, go through your delicates and read the care instructions. Most delicates will have tags that say "hand wash" or "hand wash only," which means strategic machine washing will still work, but "dry clean only" tags mean the washing machine for those delicates is a definite no-go. Delicates are fragile and can easily snag, stretch, or lose their shape during washing. To minimize this risk, sort your delicates by type. For example, lace should be washed with lace, cashmere with cashmere, silk with silk, and thin knits with thin knits. Never combine a lace article with a sequined article, for instance, because the sequins might snag the lace. Just as you do with regular laundry, it is important to also separate delicates by color; wash whites with whites, darks with darks, and colors with colors to prevent bleeding. If your delicates have any clips, clasps, zippers, or buttons, be sure to do those up to reduce a chance of snagging or stretching. Use a pre-wash stain spray or treatment to fight stains before you put your delicates in the washing machine. This will help reduce the amount of work your machine has to do, which reduces the amount of washing stress on your delicates.   Grass, dirt, oil-based, and most beverage stains can be pre-treated with dish soap, if you don't have stain spray.  For stains on whites, you can use a bleach pen. For blood or body-fluid stains, use cold tap water and light scrubbing as a pre-treatment, followed by a common hand sanitizer to disinfect the garment. It’s important not to crowd your delicates. By putting only a few delicates (sorted by type and color) into each mesh bag, you decrease their chances of getting stretched, snagged, or losing their shape.  It’s fine to put mesh bags with different types of delicates into the same washing load (the bags will keep them safe from each other), but make sure not to mix colors. For a standard-sized washer, you can wash two to three mesh bags (filled with a few delicates each) at once. If the load is unbalanced,...


Check the leaves. Reposition your plant. Water your plant. Remove dead leaves.

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If the leaves of your Aloe vera plant are turning brown or red, your plant may be sunburned. Move your plant to a place where it receives indirect, rather than direct, sunlight. If your plant is typically in a position to receive artificial light rather than sunlight, reposition the plant so that there is a greater distance between it and the light source. You can also try moving it outside so that it is getting some indirect natural light, rather than artificial light. Check the soil and determine if your plant needs to be watered. The soil is likely dry if your plant has been getting too much sunlight, since the water would be evaporating more quickly. With a sharp, sterilized knife, cut the leaf away from the plant at the base. Any leaves that are dead take nutrients from other parts of the plant, so be sure to remove them so that the rest of your plant doesn’t suffer.


Check the length of your shower curtain. Measure your space to ensure the curtain will hang properly. Add approximately 4 inches onto the curtain’s length. Use a tape measure to measure and mark the installation height.

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If it’s new, the curtain’s length will be listed on the packaging. Otherwise, you’ll need to measure it yourself using a tape measure. The standard shower curtain size is 74 inches x 74 inches – a perfect square. There should be 2 inches of space between the floor and the shower curtain. To effectively contain moisture, the curtain needs to hang at least 5 inches below the edge of the bathtub.  The two inches of space between the curtain and floor prevents the bottom of the curtain from collecting too much moisture and dirt. This will give you a rough installation height for the curtain rod. You may need to adjust up or down slightly to meet your individual needs, but in general adding 4 inches onto the curtain length should give you a proper placement. Determine the spot on each shower wall where the rod should be suspended by using a tape measure. Mark the spot on each side by making a small dot with a sharpie. These dots are where the ends of the rod will be placed.


Check the lights and signals to make sure they work. Examine all of the tires to make sure they are properly filled with air. Check for existing damage to the interior and exterior of the truck. Adjust the mirrors before driving away. Note how much gas the truck has and fill the tank if necessary.

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Before you get in the truck to drive it, you should make sure that the headlights, turn signals, and brake lights are all in good working order. If you can, ask someone else to sit in the car and turn the signals and lights on and off while you walk around the outside of the truck. Not only will checking your lights and turn signals keep you and other travellers safe on the road, but it might also save you the cost of a ticket. The proper PSI for the moving truck’s tires should be listed on a sticker inside the driver’s side door. If not, ask the moving company what PSI they recommend for their tires. Use a gauge to check the air pressure of each tire before you leave. Unscrew the valve cap on the tire, press the gauge onto the valve stem, and check the reading before replacing the valve cap. You don’t want to be blamed for any scratches or dents that were already on the truck, so go over it carefully and make sure the rental company acknowledges that the damage was already there. You may want to make a list or take pictures of any damaged areas to protect yourself. Since you’ll be relying on the side mirrors to see your surroundings, it is especially important that these are angled so that you can see clearly. Set the blindspot mirror on the passenger’s side so that you are able to see as much of the space beside the truck as possible, while the driver’s side mirror should give you a good view of what’s happening behind you. You may have to readjust the mirrors every time you switch drivers. . Many rental companies will charge an extra refueling fee if you return the truck with less gas than it had in it to begin with. Ask the rental company if they have this policy, and if they do, take a picture of the gas gauge.  The rental company should be able to give you information on the truck's gas mileage. Use this information to calculate approximately how much fuel you will need for your journey. For instance, if your truck averages 10 mpg-US (4.3 km/l) and you're travelling 700 miles (1,100 km) you'll need 70...


Check the lock. Select an unimportant plastic card to open the lock. Wedge the card in the space between the door and the frame. Locate the lock mechanism with your card. Lever the latch with the card to disengage it and open the door.

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The card technique will only work on a spring latch. Spring latches are generally the kind that move with the handle when it is turned. Turn the handle to make sure that the spring lock is engaged. If it doesn't turn, it's locked.  A dead bolt is often located above or below the handle. If the handle moves but the door doesn’t open, the dead bolt is locked and you'll need to try a different method.  This method will be much less likely to work on modern locks, which are designed to be less vulnerable to unlocking with a plastic card. When opening a door with a plastic card, the card may be damaged. Because of this, you should avoid using important or frequently used cards, like credit cards. A library card or point card will be less of a big deal to replace. Laminated cards tend to work best. These cards are bendy and can be inserted more easily between the door and its frame. Press on the door with moderate force with your non-dominant hand. This will create some extra space between the door and frame, making it easier to insert your card. Work your card into this gap just above the doorknob on a downward angle. If there's molding on the frame, there will be less space between the door and frame, making this process more difficult. In these cases, you may want to try another method to prevent costly damage. Your card is wedged between the door and frame, right? Wiggle it deeper into the space between the doorknob and doorjamb until you meet resistance. This is the lock mechanism, which you’ll need to force back to disengage.  Feel around with the bottom corner of your card a little bit. You should feel the angled part of the latch facing towards you. If the sloped side of the latch isn't facing you, you'll need to slide a long piece of plastic behind the latch to work it from the angled side. Press the card away from the knob to apply greater pressure to the latch. It’s unlikely you’ll be able to completely disengage the latch this way, but when you feel it start to give, push on the door and it should open....


Check the logo. Examine the stitching. Look at the collar label. Examine the buttons. Check the hem. Read the care label.

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Ralph Lauren shirts often contain a small stitched on graphic of a polo player riding a horse. On a fake Ralph Lauren, the mallet the rider holds will be more circular than rectangular. The tail will be difficult to see and the horse's right back leg will be bent. On a genuine product, the horse's tail is clearly visible and the right back leg is straight. You should also be able to clearly see the outline of the rider's leg. On replicas, the leg often lacks definition. As differences can be very subtle, it helps to look up an image of the actual logo for comparison. You may also want to use something like a magnifying glass to get a very close look at the Ralph Lauren logo on your product. Turn your t-shirt inside out and examine the stitching on the bottom. A genuine Ralph Lauren should have one thin line of even stitching running along the bottom of the shirt. No stitching, or jagged and uneven stitching, indicates your product is fake. All Ralph Lauren products have labels under the collar indicating the size. The main collar label contains the Ralph Lauren logo and, to the right, a small tag is sticking out with the size written on it. If there is not a separate size label, the product is likely fake. The font should also be easily legible without misspellings. In addition to this, stitching along the collar should be the same color as the shirt. High quality replicas can be extremely similar to authentic size labels, so look at a picture of a genuine size label online to compare it to your shirt's label. Even small changes in the font, including changes in spacing, can indicate a fake. Buttons are secured with a neat pearl and cross stitch with thread that matches the color of the shirt. A different type of stitch, mismatched thread, or loose threads indicate a fake. Lay your shirt down a flat surface. The back hemline should be slightly longer than the front hemline. Hemlines of equal length, or a front hemline that's longer than the back, indicate a fake product. There should be a care label somewhere...


Check the manufacturer’s instructions for the torch before beginning. Open the torch acetylene valve 1/2 turn and light the flame. Reduce the acetylene flow by adjusting the torch acetylene valve. Stop working if the flame suddenly goes out. Turn off the torch if there is flashback.

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Though most torches follow the same operating procedure, the manufacturer’s instructions may have helpful tips or warnings that are specific to your torch. Read it thoroughly before following steps or tips from any other sources. You can also search the manufacturer online to check out more information regarding your tool. A lot of sites have community forums where people post tips and stories about their experiences that you can learn from. Use a friction lighter rather than a match for this step. A friction lighter is also called a torch striker, and these can be found at hardware stores. You will see a flame coming out of your torch. If for some reason there isn’t a flame, turn off the acetylene valve and check your connections. Remember to not have the oxygen gas flowing when you go to light the torch. The flame should start to produce black smoke around the edges. Once the black smoke appears, start to increase the acetylene flow back up again just enough to get rid of the black smoke. The flame should still be attached to the tip (it shouldn’t appear as though it has “jumped away” from it). The lighting procedure should result in a neutral flame, which is blue in color and which does not make a hissing sound. This is called “backfire” and can happen it the torch comes into direct contact with the metal. If this happens, go ahead and relight the torch again right away. If backfire occurs repeatedly without contact with the work, it may be due to incorrect operating pressures or a loose nozzle in the torch. In this case, check the operating pressures and take a look at the torch to make sure everything is connected properly. If in doubt, turn off the gasses and check your machine over before proceeding. Flashback is when there is a pronounced hissing or squealing noise. This means there is something wrong with the torch or with the set up. After turning off the torch and investigating the cause, wait until the torch has cooled before attempting to light it again. If your torch keeps experiencing...


Check the metal for a number label. Look for metal that is dark brown, shiny silver, or red with rust. Chip the metal to look for a silver coloring inside.

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Inspect the surface of the metal first. If the metal has a number code printed on it, that may mean it is steel. This code may also be printed on the container or wrapping that protects the steel during shipping. If you don’t have that available, you will have to identify the metal through other means.  One code system is the AES system. It’s a 4-digit code where the first 2 numbers indicate the type of steel. Search online to find an identification chart that explains what these numbers mean.  The ASTM system is used on rebar. The first number in the code represents the size of the bar, while the letter under it indicates the type of steel. Steel comes in a small range of colors, but you can still get a sense of what metal you have by looking at it. Carbon steel, used in pipes and buildings, is a dark brown color. Stainless steel, used in kitchens, is silver and shiny. In addition, reddish rust spots are an indication that the metal is steel. Metal that has a red or yellow tint is copper or brass, not steel. Copper may also turn green as it ages. Before attempting a chip test, look for any fractures. These spots usually give you a view of the inside of the metal. Otherwise, use a hammer and chisel to break off a small piece. Steel’s inner portion is always bright gray. Hold the metal in place with clamps or vice grips before attempting to chip it.


Check the nearest office supply store. Go to bookstores for sturdy boxes. Visit grocery stores for wooden boxes. Ask bars and liquor stores. Get fry boxes from fast food restaurants. Visit chain coffee shops. Stop by a garage sale. Browse around your local recycling center or the post office. Ask your local schools if they have boxes to give away.

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Office supplies often require strong boxes, and typically come with a lot of packing material. Drop by Staples, Office Depot, or any office supply store close by. Ask to speak to a manager, and see if they have any free boxes they don’t use.  Ask if they specifically have printer or copy paper boxes. Due to their large size, those will help you carry your heavy household belongings, from kitchenware to books. Find out on which days shipments are received. You will have better luck at the end of those days, when trucks have been unloaded and everything has been unpacked. Books are quite heavy, and carrying them often requires thick and durable cardboard boxes. If you live in a big city, chain bookstores like Barnes&Noble might be good options, since they usually get a shipment once or twice a week. You can check hardware or electronic stores nearby as well. Most stores want to get rid of their boxes since they occupy space. At a grocery store, you have a good chance of finding wooden grocery boxes, as well as cardboard boxes.  For example, apple crates are sturdy, and can help you move heavy or fragile items. Avoid vegetable pallets since you wouldn’t be able to fit much into them. You can use liquor boxes for carrying heavy items like your glassware. However, make sure to ask for boxes with lids, since many liquor boxes tend to have their tops removed. Local restaurants or pharmacies are also a good option. Fry boxes can be very versatile for hauling heavy items like books in small amounts. Ask your local McDonald’s or Burger King if they have any extra fry boxes. Since the fries are carried in frozen form, you don’t need to worry about the smell or grease. Popular coffee shops like Starbucks are likely to have regular shipment, once or twice a week. Talk to a barista when there isn’t a long line of customers. If they don’t have any boxes then, ask for when the next shipment will come in, and see if they’d be willing to reserve any boxes for you. If you come across a yard sale in your neighborhood, ask if...


Check the oil after the car has rested for 5 minutes. Understand the appearance of the dipstick.

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If you check the oil right after turning the car off you will get an inaccurate reading, as some of the oil will still be at the top of the engine. Keep the car on a level, even surface as well to make sure you aren't checking the oil on a slant.  Most auto manufacturers require you check the oil after the car has been warmed by starting it in place for 3-5 minutes. Check your owner's manual if there is any doubt.  To be safe, you should check your oil every month, and more frequently if you have to drive long distances. Is the oil black, brown, or clear? Is the dipstick itself clean, or mottled and dark? Oil may start out light tan, but it will always darken with use as the engine runs, collecting impurities from the combustion cycle and from getting hot. Its color is also dependent on mileage. For example, if you are driving an older car 5000 miles a month, your car might burn a quart of oil a month.  If the oil looks milky or white you could have a coolant leak and must get the car towed to a mechanic immediately. If the oil has metallic particles or bits in it, get it to a mechanic immediately.  If the oil seems dirty or sludge-like, it's time to change your oil.  You should not be filling up the oil every few weeks or month -- this could be the sign of a leak.


Check the owner’s manual for the location of the stove’s pilot light switch. Do not smoke or have open flames in the room. Turn the gas valve to off. Confirm the gas valve is shut off properly.

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Usually, your stove’s pilot light switch is located along the gas line on the inside of the stovetop. You should see a small switch or valve that you can turn from ON to OFF. Always double check the owner’s manual for your stove to make sure you have identified the right switch. Handling the gas line should be done with caution. If you are not sure where the stove’s pilot light switch is, call your energy company and/or the stove’s manufacturer to confirm. To prevent a fire or a gas explosion, do not smoke or have open flames, such as candles, in the room when you switch off the pilot light. Confirm the window in the room is open and there are no open flames. There will be a switch that you can turn from ON to OFF to turn off the stove’s pilot light. There should then be no gas going to the pilot light for the stovetop or for the oven. It can be difficult to smell carbon monoxide gas to confirm the valve is shut off properly. If your home has a carbon monoxide detector, it will likely go off if there is carbon monoxide in the home. There should be no carbon monoxide in your home if the gas valve is shut off properly and the pilot light is turned off correctly.  The symptoms of CO poisoning include headache, fatigue, shortness of breath, nausea, and dizziness. If you are exposed to high levels of CO gas, you may experience more severe symptoms like mental confusion, vomiting, loss of muscular coordination and loss of consciousness, as well as possibly death.  If you experience any of these symptoms, you should leave your home and get fresh air outside right away. Do not stay in your home, as you could lose consciousness from CO exposure. Call the fire department and report your symptoms. You should also talk to your doctor as soon as possible and let her know you suspect you may have been exposed to CO gas.


Check the packages. Organize the parts. Gather your tools.

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All of the materials for a trampoline will usually come in two or three packages. Empty each of the packages and make sure that you have everything that is listed in the instructions. A missing piece can prevent you from setting up the trampoline properly, so you don't want to begin putting it together without double checking that you have everything you need. If there is a missing piece, call the company you bought the trampoline from and see what can be done about it. Sometimes they will ship you the missing piece, or they will exchange your trampoline for an entirely new one. There are a lot of parts, big and small, that come with the trampoline package. The setting up process can be confusing if all of the parts are in one pile. Take some time to spread out the pieces and put them in groups according to what they are being used for. Some of the pieces may look similar, but will be used for different areas. You don't need too many tools to set up a trampoline, but it is helpful to have them readily available. You will need a power drill or Phillips head screwdriver. Many packages will come with a screwdriver. You will also need a rubber mallet and spring puller, which comes with the packaging. You should also have gloves handy for when it is time to attach the springs. It's easy to get your hands caught in the springs, so gloves prevent your skin from getting caught up in them.


Check the packaging. Examine the Chuck Taylor patch. Look at the trademark. Notice the tongue. Check the insole. Verify the pinstripe. Own a pair of All Stars.

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One easy way to spot a counterfeit is when the All Stars come in a box that is obviously not Converse. Fresh shoes also come with tissue in the packaging. Sometimes they’ll even have paper stuffing in the shoes.  If you don’t see any of the “typical” signs of fresh shoes, they're probably worth suspicion. The real patch has a navy blue star, whereas the fake one may have different shade of blue. Also, the original will be stamped with only a star and Taylor's signature. Be leery of emblems that are not clear. Many fake ones look blurry and have other design elements or words.  All Stars also come in such a wide array of styles and colors. The logo won’t always be blue and sometimes the patch is made of rubber. Examine the star itself and be sure it is a clean print. Shoes made before 2008 will have the ® symbol under the All Star logo. If you see this symbol on shoes made after 2008, be cautious. Check the stitched logo as well. Although it may appear authentic, if you spot a patchy or unclear logo, it’s fake. The All Stars logo will be printed very clearly on the top of the tongue. It is fake if the print is blurry or the thread in loose around the print. The traditional tongue is made of a thin canvas. Pay attention to the stitching around the border the tongue. As a general rule, if the stitching is loose or uneven, it’s counterfeit. In real Converse, the inner sole will have the word Converse printed sharp and plain. Be aware if you are buying a used pair. A used pair’s insignia will appear more faded than a new pair, but this doesn’t necessarily mean they’re counterfeit. This is painted on the top edge of the sole. It should be smooth and perfect. If it is shaky, not crisp looking or uneven, it is a red flag. The best way to understand All Stars is by having an authentic pair. If you’ve never owned them, purchase a pair from a trusted seller. Once you have a pair of Converse All Stars, you’ll know all the quirks and attributes of the shoe. Save the location of where you spotted a deal for next time. Even...