Remove food sources that attract gnats. Cover your garbage and recycling bins. Check doors and windows for holes, gaps, and cracks. Try to eliminate damp spots in your home.

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Tidy your kitchen and dining room regularly, wipe up spills immediately, and promptly wash used pots, dishes, and utensils. Store fruit, especially ripened fruit, in the refrigerator.  Always keep food in airtight containers stored in a closed cabinet or refrigerator. Keep your eye out for sneaky spills, such as a little fruit juice by the fridge or a forgotten onion in the back of the pantry. Unnoticed messes could breed thousands of gnats. Keep all of your bins covered, including those outside. Check their exteriors for spills and food residue regularly, and wipe away any messes with a mild bleach solution.  Avoid keeping full bags of trash in the house overnight. It’s wise to rinse out empty bottles and cans before throwing them in your recycling bin. Repair any tears in window screens, and add weatherstripping to gaps around doors and window frames. Avoid leaving doors and unscreened windows open. Look for holes and vents on your home’s exterior, and seal them with caulk or fine mesh screens. Some gnats are small enough to fit through mesh screens, so you might want to keep your windows closed, even if they’re screened. Gnats thrive in moist places, so look out for damp corners in the kitchen, bathroom, and other areas of the house. Wipe damp spots down with a mild bleach solution or household cleaner, then dry them with a clean cloth. Store wet towels and clothes in a lidded hamper, and wash dirty mop heads thoroughly before hanging them to dry.  Check the areas beneath kitchen and bathroom sinks, and repair any leaks you find. Keep your blinds and curtains open to let sunlight into your home. Daylight can help prevent dampness. You could also use a humidity monitor and dehumidifier to keep humidity levels in your home below 50%.


Remove food sources. Keep your tree limbs short. Make your garden undesirable to squirrels. Install a motion-activated sprinkler in your yard. Contact a professional animal removal service.

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A good way to stop your dog from killing squirrels is to keep them out of your yard in the first place. That will be a win-win situation for your dog and the squirrel! Remove food, such as acorns, from your yard that would be attractive to squirrels.  Rake up any nuts and berries, and remove any leftover food (human or pet).  Bird feeders are very enticing for squirrels, so it would be a good idea to remove them from your yard. If that is not practical, replace the birdseed with something that squirrels do not like, such as safflower. Another way to keep squirrels out of your yard is to limit their access. If your trees have long branches, cut the branches so squirrels cannot use them as launching pads onto your roof or into your yard. Squirrels can leap about 10 feet, so cut the limbs such that the distance between the tree and your yard is more than 10 feet. If the squirrels keep finding a way into your yard, try to make your yard more undesirable to them. For example, bury orange or lemon rinds just beneath the soil in your garden to repel the squirrels. You can also sprinkle some garlic powder or cayenne pepper in the soil just before your plants bloom to keep squirrels away.  Certain plants, such as the Crown Imperial flower, can be deterrents to squirrels.  You could also spray commercially available squirrel repellent in your yard. If all else fails, squirrels will definitely dislike being the unwitting victims of a sudden burst of water. Place the sprinklers in areas where squirrels tend to frequent in your yard, like the garden. It probably won’t take long for squirrels to avoid your yard almost entirely. If squirrels continue to frequent your yard, or if you do not have the time to implement your own squirrel-removal strategies, consider contacting a professional company to do the job. It may cost anywhere from a few hundred to over a thousand dollars, depending on the extent of the squirrel problem.


Remove fresh latex paint with water A spot of latex paint can usually be removed by wiping it up with a soft, water-soaked rag. Use denatured alcohol if the water does not work. Remove fresh oil-based paint with mineral spirits. Remove dried paint with boiled linseed oil. Use a putty knife, if necessary, for stubborn dried spots. Strip residue with a linseed oil paste.

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Soak a soft, clean cloth rag in warm water. Wring out some of the excess water to prevent the rag from dripping over unaffected areas. Scrape the paint away Wipe away the spot of paint. You may need to rinse and re-soak the rag several times to get all of the paint up. Wipe the wood dry with a separate, dry rag. If you have a latex paint splatter on your wood that you cannot wipe away with plain water, wipe it away with denatured alcohol, instead.  Apply enough alcohol to a clean rag to dampen it without making it dripping wet. Pass the alcohol-soaked rag over the paint spot to remove it. Rinse, resoak, and repeat as needed. Dry the spot with a clean, dry rag when finished. Oil-based paint will continue clinging to the wood if you use plain water, so wipe it away with a soft rag dabbed in mineral spirits.  Dip a soft, clean rag into a small dish of mineral spirits. Instead of soaking the entire rag, only soak the area you plan on bringing into contact with the paint splatter. Wipe up the paint by passing the mineral spirit over the splatter. Rinse and resoak as needed until all the paint has been removed. Dry the area with a separate dry rag. Dry spots of paint can be softened by soaking and rubbing them away with boiled linseed oil.  Soak a clean rag in boiled linseed oil. Press the linseed oil rag against the paint spot and hold in place for 30 to 60 seconds. This permits the oil to soak into the paint. Wipe away the softened paint with your linseed oil soaked rag. Dry the area with a separate dry rag. If you cannot wipe the paint away even after softening it with boiled linseed oil, carefully use a putty knife to scrape beneath the splatter and lift it off the wood. Any dried paint residue that remains can be removed by rubbing it with a paste made of boiled linseed oil and rottenstone.  Combine enough boiled linseed oil and rottenstone in a small disposable dish to form a thick paste. Use a disposable wooden chopstick to stir the ingredients together. Scoop some of the paste onto a clean rag and rub the...


Remove from pan.

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When vegetables are done, remove from the pan quickly to avoid overcooking. Serve and enjoy!


Remove from the freezer and unmold.

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The three layers should now form a complete shot glass. It's a little extra work but it looks very effective. Use as outlined above.


Remove from the heat. Peel the cooled eggs. Slice each egg in half. Push the yolk mixture through a colander to ensure smoothness. Scoop the yolk mixture neatly into each white egg half.

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Drain the water and allow the eggs to cool. They can be peeled as soon as you’re able to touch the eggs comfortably. Use a teaspoon to scoop out the yolks from each half. Place the yolks into a bowl. Arrange the white halves on a baking sheet or platter for use later. This step isn’t necessary if you like the texture from the previous step but it will make it as smooth as possible. Form a rounded mound in each half, as this is what the spider will sit upon. Sprinkle with paprika.


Remove glitter brows slowly to avoid hair loss. Do not use acetone to remove glitter brows. Remove your glitter brows before bed.

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Some people have reported hair loss when removing glitter brows. Remember, the glue used is a powerful adhesive. Take your your time and remove your glitter brows slowly, using a makeup wipe, to avoid hair loss. Never use an acetone-based makeup remover to get rid of glitter brows. There is a risk of acetone getting in your eyes, which can cause potentially serious health issues. To remove your glitter brows, take a makeup wipe and press against the brow. Work it into your brow using your fingers. From there, remove the wipe. This should take off the first layer of glitter.  After the first layer of glitter is removed, use the makeup wipe to roll the glue from the corner of your eyebrow near your nose outward. The glue should peel off in one solid chunk.


Remove harmful items from the home. Ensure appropriate supervision. Discuss risky situations. Consider treatment.

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The existence of harmful items in the home have been linked to destructive behaviors in teens. For example, alcohol and drugs in the home are correlated with increased substance use by adolescents.  Remove guns or other weapons from the home. Get rid of alcohol and other substances (even unused prescription pills). If your teen has a history of self-harm, remove or lock up sharp objects, including knives and weapons. Set a positive example by reducing your own negative or unhealthy behaviors. For instance, teenagers can think it is hypocritical if you tell them not to smoke cigarettes while puffing away on one. Supervised and structured activities have been linked to a reduction in antisocial behaviors (criminal activity and other behavioral problems). When the teenager is involved in activities outside of the home, make sure there is adequate supervision and structure.  Make sure the teen has adult supervision after school and on the weekends. Ensure that outings are well supervised. Get to know the parents of the youth’s friends in order to establish appropriate supervision and monitor the youth’s behaviors. Being open an honest with the adolescent about the risks of engaging in behaviors such as substance use, criminal activities, and unprotected sex. If you avoid these topics out of fear or discomfort, the child will most assuredly learn from his peers, which can involve misleading and incorrect information.  Have the sex talk. Sexual relationships in teenage years tend to predict and form the basis for future relationships. Discuss the risks of sex early on. In order to start the conversation you could say something like, "I think it's time that we have a discussion about sex. I know this can be an uncomfortable topic to to talk about with your parent, but it is really important that we have it. What do you think?" You can start by discussing what the teenager has heard about sex from his friends or on television. Explain your views of sex and what your expectations are for your child (when they should...


Remove it from the refrigerator 1 hour before roasting. Preheat the oven to 400 °F (204 °C). Rub the meat with spices. Place the lamb in a roasting pan. Roast the lamb for 30 minutes. Reduce the heat and continue roasting. Rare meat:

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Bringing the meat to room temperature will ensure that it cooks evenly. If you put it in the oven cold, you may end up with an undercooked interior and burned exterior.  Lamb is so tender that it doesn't need to be marinated. You can follow a recipe to marinate the lamb, but it's easier to complement the meat's flavor with a simple rub. First, rub olive oil and a few tablespoons of lemon juice all over the lamb. Then, sprinkle the leg with salt, pepper and 3 tablespoons or so of your favorite spices. Try the following, either alone or in combination:  Crushed rosemary Dried thyme Dried sage Minced garlic Use a pan that's just slightly larger than the leg. Roasting for the first 30 minutes at a high heat will give the lamb a nice sear. Turn it down to 350 °F (177 °C) for the remainder of the roasting time. Roast for another 30 minutes to an hour or more, depending on your preferred level of doneness. No matter what, use a meat thermometer to check the meat's temperature after about an hour to see how the lamb is progressing. Here are the general guidelines for roasting times: roast until the internal temperature of the meat is 125 °F (52 °C), which will require about 15 minutes per pound.   Medium-rare meat: roast until the internal temperature of the meat is 130 °F (54 °C), which will require about 20 minutes per pound.  Medium meat: roast until the internal temperature of the meat is 135 °F (57 °C), which will require about 25 minutes per pound.  Well done meat: roast until the internal temperature of the meat is 155 °F (68 °C), which will require about 30 minutes per pound.


Remove jewelry and other metal objects. Tell your doctor if you are pregnant. Don't take any medicine containing bismuth.

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Although you don't need to make any special preparations before taking a bone scan, you should dress in comfortable, easily removed clothes and refrain from wearing any jewelry. Metal jewelry and watches, in particular, should be left at home or removed just prior to the bone scan because they can affect the results.  Like other diagnostic imaging tests, such as x-rays, any metal on your body will make the bone scan images look white or lighter than surrounding areas. Tell the radiologist and/or technician if you have any metal fillings in your mouth or metal implants in your body, so they can make note of it and not confuse them with diseases processes. Wearing clothes that are easily removed is a good idea because you may be asked to wear a hospital gown. Inform your doctor if your pregnant or potentially pregnant because the radiation exposure from the radiotracer can be harmful to the baby. As such, bone scans aren't often performed on pregnant women or nursing mothers — the breast milk can become slightly radioactive and harm the baby also.  There are other imaging tests for bone that are safer for pregnant women, such as MRI studies and diagnostic ultrasound. Short-term osteoporosis is not uncommon with pregnant women who are malnourished because minerals are leached from their bones to provide for the growing baby. Although you can eat and drink normally just prior to your bone scan, tell your doctor about the medications you're taking, as these may affect your test. For example, medicines that contain barium or bismuth affect bone scan test results, so you should avoid taking them for at least four days prior to your appointment.  Bismuth is found in a variety of medicinal products, such as Pepto-Bismol, Kaopectate, Devrom and De-Nol. Bismuth and barium can cause areas of your body to look too light on bone scans


Remove large pieces of lipstick. Test a cleaning product on a corner of your carpet. Blot with the cleaning product. Repeat if you are seeing good results. Hand wash the cleaning product and stain remnants. Rinse and dry the area.

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Use a spoon or dull knife to carefully scrape and remove any large pieces of lipstick from the carpet. Try to avoid pushing the pieces further into the carpet. Lipstick stains attach to the carpet fibers with grease, so you will need a cleaning product that dissolves grease or oils. Most all-purpose stain removers will work, as will dry cleaning fluid. However, these may discolor your carpet. Apply the cleaning product to an inconspicuous corner of the carpet first and let sit five minutes before blotting dry with a clean cloth. If the discoloration is severe, you may wish to find another product.  Dry cleaning fluid is especially likely to discolor your carpet.  If you do not have any stain removers or dry cleaning fluid, see the section on alternate cleaning solutions for other products or homemade mixtures you may have access to. Apply the cleaning product to a clean sponge or cloth. Press repeatedly over the stain, switching to a clean side if the cloth becomes heavily stained. Avoid rubbing, which may work the lipstick further into the carpet fibers or spread it to a wider area. Depending on the cleaning product, lipstick, and freshness of the stain, this step may remove the lipstick on its own.  Alternatively, you may spray the cleaning product onto your carpet and let sit five minutes before blotting. This may be more effective at removing the stain, but has a greater risk of discoloring your carpet. Even if the stain is removed, skip to the end of this section for instructions on cleaning up traces of the solvent. If most of the stain has been removed, launder or rinse out the sponge or cloth, then apply more of the same cleaning product and blot. Two or three attempts may be enough to remove the stain, although you should stop and choose another product in the alternate cleaning solutions method if you see no major improvements. Whatever product you used, wash your carpet afterward to remove traces of cleaning product that could discolor your carpet or damage its fibers. Hand wash the area with a...


Remove leaves which have been eaten by slugs, rabbits, or other garden pests. Cut away infected leaves and stems. Sanitize your cutting tools after pruning infected plants. Burn infected hosta plants if you can.

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Hostas are a popular snack for a number of insects and animals. If you notice that your hosta has been nibbled on, use a small pair of shears or a sharp knife to snip away the damaged leaves as close to the base of the stem as possible.  Hail can also damage the leaves of your hosta plant. Removing the damaged leaves will encourage the hosta to direct its energy towards the healthy parts of the plant. When you’re watering your hosta plant, try to direct the flow of water down towards the base of the plant. Otherwise, you may start to see wilting leaves, black dots, or stunted growth, which could be signs of a fungus or nematode. If you see these signs, promptly cut away the infected leaves or stems from the plant. If one of your plants is infected with a fungus, virus, or other diseases, you may spread the blight with your tools as you’re pruning. Even if you don’t see any signs of illness, wipe down the blades of your tool with rubbing alcohol before you move to the next plant. If you’re removing plants infected with hosta virus X, or HVX, wash your tools and your hands after you finish handling each individual plant. There are a number of diseases which can affect your hostas, the most serious of which is HVX. If you notice light or dark green lines travelling along the veins of your hosta leaves, mottled or blotchy discoloration on the leaves, circular spots, or wilting leaves, it could be a sign of the rapidly-spreading hosta virus X. Remove the entire plant to keep it from spreading. Burning is the most effective way to destroy HVX, though you'll need to make sure it’s allowed in your area.  Other diseases which might affect your plant include foliar and root-knot nematodes, petiole rot, Southern blight, and the anthracnose fungus. If you can not burn the infected hosta plants, send them to the landfill. Do not add HVX-infected hostas to your compost pile, otherwise you may spread the disease.


Remove leftover adhesive. Allow the walls to dry. Patch holes. Sand the walls. Vacuum or dust.

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Fill a clean bucket with hot water. Soak a sponge or rag in the water and go over every inch of the wall to rinse and wipe away excess glue. When you shine a light on the wall, dark spots indicate that there's still glue left there. As you work, rinse and wring out your sponge frequently, changing the water as necessary. Continue wiping down sections of the wall until all the glue has been removed. Let the walls dry out for at least 24 hours before you do anything else. This will give the drywall time to fully dry out. Make sure there are no wet spots or dark patches on the drywall before you start patching or redecorating. The wallpaper may have been covering dents and dings, or there may be holes or gouges in the drywall from the removal process. Fill these with spackle before repainting or re-wallpapering.  Place a small amount of spackle on a putty knife, and use the knife to press the spackle into the hole. Smooth out the spackle with the putty knife and leave it to dry. For larger holes, use joint compound instead, and apply it with a trowel. This is the final touch that will ensure you have a perfectly clean and smooth surface for new paint or wallpaper to stick to. When the spackle or joint compound has dried fully, go over the entire surface of the wall with 120-grit sandpaper.  Spackle generally takes a few hours to dry, while joint compound takes about 24. Check the manufacturer’s instructions about drying time before you sand the walls. Consider wearing protective eyewear and a mask to prevent dust from getting in your eyes, nose, mouth, and lungs. To remove all traces of dust and dirt from the walls from sanding, vacuum the walls. Then go over the walls with a slightly damp cloth. Allow the walls to completely dry before priming, painting, or putting up new wallpaper. Once you’ve sanded and wiped the walls, you can remove all the protective plastic from the room. You can also leave it in place if you plan to paint.


Remove loose pollen. Place the garment in direct sunlight. Soak the stain in cold water for 30 minutes.

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Shake the stained garment and press the adhesive side of tape to it to lift remaining pollen. Similarly, loose pollen grains can be gently vacuumed from the fabric. This will prevent you from grinding the pollen grains into the fibers of your garment any more and prevent the stain from growing larger. Hang the garment up in direct sunlight for two to three hours. After a few hours have passed, check the stain; the sun should completely (or nearly completely) fade the pollen stain. If the stain is severe, however, this may not be enough to eliminate it. If sunlight alone is not enough, place the fabric in cold water and soak it. After soaking, allow the garment to dry in direct sunlight.


Remove manure and soiled bedding daily. Exercise your goat. Ask your vet about the "BoSe" shot. Vaccinate your goat annually. Deworm your goat only after consulting with a vet. Watch for bloating.

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Scoop out poop and wet, stinky bedding every day. This includes in the pasture and in the goat’s shelter. Replace the bedding with fresh hay.  This will prevent your goat from becoming ill since you’re removing the parasites that live in the manure. Once or twice a year, you should do a deep cleaning of your goat’s shelter. Remove the bedding and scrub down all surfaces. Then replace the bedding with fresh hay. Goats are active animals, so make sure your goat gets lots of exercise. Encourage your goat to climb by placing things to climb on in their pasture, such as large rocks, wooden structures, and bushes. You can also run and play with your goat.  If your pasture is on the smaller side, take the goat on a walk. Goats also enjoy items like a seesaw, which allows them to run up and down it to try to balance it. The BoSe shot contains Selenium and Vitamin E, which your goat needs to stay healthy. They’re especially important for muscle, bone, and reproductive health. Since many goats are deficient in these important minerals, the shot is usually administered to goats once yearly.  Since it’s only available through the vet, you’ll need a prescription for the shot. If you’re breeding your goat(s), it’s a good idea to give them the shot before breeding season. It helps the kid develop properly and protects the dam from complications. Goats should be given the CDT vaccine, which protects against Clostridium perfringens type C and D, as well as tetanus. The vaccine’s effect wanes over time, so you must administer a booster yearly.  If the goats are breeding, bucks should be given their booster 30 days before breeding season, while dams should get their shot 30 days before kidding. Baby goats should be first vaccinated at 5-6 weeks and then again 3-4 weeks later.  You can also vaccinate the goat against rabies if your vet recommends it. Rabies vaccinations are not standard in goats. Goats can get internal parasites, such as worms, so deworming is helpful. Since there are few dewormers formulated for goats, you’ll...


Remove meat from your reduction. Use the widest possible pan. Divide your reduction to complete the process more quickly.

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Meat chunks and slices will prevent a high-quality reduction.   If you’re working with a braise, remove meat pieces to another pan or a plate when they’re done cooking, then add them back into your reduction when it has reached the consistency you desire. A larger surface area will allow your sauce to reduce more quickly.  A wide sauté pan or a Dutch oven are your best options.  You can reduce using a small sauce pot, too, but it will take longer. If you’re short on time (or just really hungry), place half of your sauce into a second pan and cook both pans simultaneously.  Cook both pans under identical heat settings.  This will reduce the amount of sauce per pan you’ll have to reduce. Combine both pans when they reach the desired consistency.


Remove movable items from the floor being buffed. Block off the area to prevent people from slipping on the wet floor. Place your pets in a safe location if you’re buffing the floor of a home.

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Place these items in a separate room or hallway. Moving these items allows you to buff the area under and around them. Otherwise, it will be very difficult for you to get an even shine. Keep in mind that a buffer is a bulky machine that can easily damage items that it bumps into, and it'll be harder for you to buff the area around the items in the room if you don’t remove them. This will also help protect your freshly buffed floor from getting dirty while you’re still working. Tell other people living in your home or those who are in your place of business that the floor will be wet for the next several hours.  If you moved large items from the room, you can always use these as a blockade to help keep people out. Simply position them along the entrance to the room. If you’re cleaning a commercial floor, put up “Caution” or “Wet Floor” signs for added safety. Pets can get in the way of the buffer and may dirty your floor. You don’t want to accidentally buff pet fur into your floor, as you won’t be able to remove it once it’s buffed into the finish. Put your pets in a separate room and shut the door.  Alternatively, you can place your pets in their kennel if they already use one. Your pets will likely be afraid of the buffer, so keeping them out of the way will save them a lot of stress!


Remove old finishes. Sand the wood. Clean up.

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Strip the wood of any preexisting shellac, lacquer, wax, varnish, or paint. For this, feel free to move your project outdoors for the time being. Work with better air circulation while making your clean-up that much easier. Start with a medium (100-grit) sandpaper if the wood feels especially rough. After that, resand it with fine (150-grit) sandpaper, and then again with extra-fine (220-grit) paper. Inspect the wood for any scratches in between each sanding. If necessary, use the extra-fine paper to smooth scratched areas. Vacuum the wood and surrounding area to remove all of the dust created by sanding. Use a soft-brush attachment when vacuuming the wood itself to avoid scratching the surface. Then dampen a lint-free cloth and wipe the wood down to remove any dust that the vacuum missed. Repeat with a second wipe-down using a dry microfiber cloth.  If your polyurethane is oil-based, use mineral spirits to dampen your lint-free cloth. For water-based polyurethane, dampen your cloth with water. Some people use tack cloths for the dry wipe-down, but be aware that some tack cloths may include chemicals that will interfere with the polyurethane’s adhesion.


Remove old nail polish.

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Clean, polish-free nails are essential before you begin filing. Dip a cotton swab in nail polish remover. Rub each nail until all of the polish is removed. You may need to go over each nail again with a clean cotton swab to remove traces of polish around your nail and on your skin. Re-dip the cotton swab as needed.


Remove one clip at a time. Take out temporary extensions before sleeping or showering. Spritz hair with water to release difficult tangles.

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Squeeze the clip and gently pull it away from your natural hair. Hold your natural hair against your scalp to prevent pulling or stressing your roots. Be careful not to let the clip snap on your fingers if the teeth are sharp.  Work in sections around your head if you have more than one clip in. When reapplying clip-in extensions, be sure to reposition them in different spots on your head. This will allow your scalp to relax from any wear and tear. Remove clip-in extensions before bed because they will cause your scalp discomfort, even on the softest pillow. Also, if your temporary extensions cannot be washed with regular shampoo or conditioner like natural hair, always be sure to take them out before showering.  Lay your extensions out on a towel overnight or hang them up so that they stay straight. Comb your fake hair once it’s removed to prevent any tangling in storage. Moisture can help detangle any chunks of matted hair that have worked their way around clip-in extensions. Use a combination of a wide toothed comb and a spray bottle of water or a hair detangling product to coax the clips out. If your temporary extensions cannot get wet, do not dampen them.


Remove or raise your clothing. Find your true waist. Wrap a piece of string around your waist. Exhale, then note the length of the string. Use a yardstick or ruler to measure the string, if you have one.

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Ideally, you’ll want to measure your waist against your bare skin, since bulky tops or undergarments might make your measurement inaccurate. Your true waist is between your rib cage and your hip. If you look in the mirror, it should be the part of your torso that thins slightly, generally right above your belly button. If you’re still having trouble finding your waist, slightly bend your body to one side. The crease that forms where you bend is your natural waistline. Once you have found your true waist, take a piece of string and wrap it around your body. Hold it straight and parallel to the floor, and make sure the string is snug but not too tight.  You can also use dental floss or yarn if you don’t have any string. Don’t suck in your stomach, since that won’t be your true waist measurement. You can either mark the length with your finger or cut the string. However, make sure you take a measurement as you’re exhaling, not inhale, since your stomach expands slightly as you exhale. If you don’t have a pair of scissors, you can use a dark permanent to mark the spot where the two ends of the string touch. Lay your string out flat, then use a ruler or yardstick to measure its length. If you’re using a ruler, you may have to use it more than once – simply keep track of where it ended with your finger, remove the ruler, then start over from that spot. Make sure the string is completely straight when you line it up next to the ruler. If it's not, your measurement will be slightly smaller than your waist really is.


Remove overgrown weeds or grass from the edges of your driveway. Scrub your driveway with driveway cleaner and water. Apply oil spot primer to stained areas of your driveway. Measure your driveway to determine how much sealant to purchase.

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This will make it easier to spread the sealant and will also make the finished product look even better. Use a shovel to dig in a circle around the roots of larger weeds. After cutting through as many roots as possible, insert the shovel underneath them. Now, lever the weeds from the soil. Use a power edge trimmer to remove small patches of grass along the perimeter of your driveway. Always hold the trimmer level and rigid, taking care to move your body instead of your arms. Purchase driveway cleaner indicated for asphalt application from a home hardware or automotive store. If you have a power washer, use its soap nozzle to apply the driveway cleaner. Otherwise, use a garden hose applicator. Be sure to cover the entire surface of the driveway. Now, scrub the surface of the driveway using a push broom. Afterward, clear out the dirt and soap residue using a steady stream of water from your power washer nozzle or garden hose. If you're using your power washer to clear the dirt and soap, use the 40-degree nozzle setting. Oil spot primer helps driveway sealer bind better to oil-stained regions. Dip a disposable chip brush into the primer and apply a layer over the driveway pores under the stain. For heavier stains, apply two coats of primer. Be sure to let the primer dry completely before applying driveway sealant.  Make sure your driveway is dry before applying oil spot primer. Purchase oil spot primer from a home hardware or automotive store. Use a measuring tape to determine the length and width of your driveway. Multiply the two values together to get your total square footage. Sealant usually comes in 5 gallon (19 L) containers, which can cover as much as 400 square feet (37 m2). Consider a driveway that is 10 by 30 feet (3.0 by 9.1 m): this means the total area is 300 square feet (28 m2), which requires one 5 gallon (19 L) bucket of sealant.


Remove pits, seeds, and peels from certain fruits and vegetables. Cook certain foods before processing.

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Fruits such as apples, peaches, and nectarines will need their seeds and pits removed; whereas fruits such as bananas and kiwis will need to be peeled before using in the food processor. Some foods will be difficult to grind in the food processor if they are not softened beforehand, such as apples, potatoes, and pears; whereas foods such as meats will need to be cooked if they are raw.  Boil, bake, or steam fruits and vegetables to soften them before processing. Remove the skin and fat from all meats such as chicken, turkey, and beef before cooking them and placing them in the food processor. Cook hard grains such as millet or quinoa according to the directions on the manufacturer's packaging before placing them in the food processor.


Remove powder deposits with masonry cleaner. Use a putty knife or paint scraper to remove any current paint. Wash the blocks with a pressure washer or hose and scrub brush. Allow the blocks to dry for 4 hours after getting wet. Seal cracks with polyurethane caulk.

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Some cinder blocks that have been exposed to water through a leak will develop a white powder coating on the outside. It can be removed by scrubbing the deposits with cleaner and a scrub brush. Allow the cleaned areas to dry completely before washing the walls further.  Alternatively, you can mix the masonry cleaner with water in a 1-to-1 mixture in a pressure washer and clean the surface of the cinder blocks with the pressurized mixture. To avoid future deposits after painting, locate the cause of the leak and repair it appropriately before priming and painting. Cinder blocks are mostly all a shade of gray or taupe, so if your blocks are another color or have a shine to them, they’re probably painted. Lift off the paint with the edge of the scraper. Chip away small portions at a time until as much of the paint is removed as possible. Don’t worry about very small pieces that are still present after you remove most of the paint. You can normally scrub these off with water or paint over them without any problem. Using a pressure washer on a mild pressure level of 1500-2000 psi will get the job done quickly, but it’s okay if you don’t have access to one. You can use a regular garden hose to spray down the blocks and then scrub with a brush to remove dirt. Avoid using soap in the water because it will take longer to dry and isn’t effective for cleaning bare cinder block. The primer won’t stick if it’s applied to wet cinder blocks. If you’re working inside, open windows or turn on fans to allow the cinder blocks to dry out quickly. Be patient. If all of the blocks aren’t dry after 4 hours, you should wait an additional hour before priming. Purchase a tube of caulk at the hardware or home improvement store and locate any cracks in the cinder block. Cut about 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) off the tip of the caulk and push the caulk to the tip of the tube with your hands or a caulking gun. Then, apply the caulk to the crack liberally, covering the joint completely.  For a smooth finish, run a razor over the applied caulk to...


Remove pressure from the blood blister. Apply ice to the blister if it is painful immediately after the injury. Under normal circumstances, do not pop the blood blister.

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Start by eliminating any pressure and exposing the blister to the air. You want to make sure nothing rubs against it, or presses down on it. Exposing it to the air allows it to start healing naturally. If it is not under any pressure, it will stay intact and the chances of it tearing or bursting and becoming infected are lessened. Ice packs can be applied to the area for 10 to 30 minutes at a time. You can do this to reduce the pain and to cool it if it is warm and throbbing. Icing the blister can be done regularly too, not just immediately after the injury.  Don't place ice directly on the skin, since this can cause a cold burn. Instead, place a towel between the ice and the skin to protect the injured area. It may be enticing, but popping the blister can lead to infection and delay the body's natural healing process. If the blood blister is in a place that normally gets pressure, try not to put extended pressure on it.


Remove receipts, gum, and other debris in the plastic bags. Confirm the bags have a #2 or #4 plastic symbol on them. Collect the bags in one large garbage bag. Bring them to a bag collection bin.

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Check that all the bags are free of debris. Shake them out to confirm they are empty. The symbol should be printed on the front or bottom of the plastic bag. This confirms the bag is made of recycled material. If there is no #2 or #4 symbol, the plastic bag may not be recyclable. If this is the case, you can reuse the bag in other ways around the house. Aim to fit 50 to 100 plastic bags in the garbage bag. Press the plastic bags down to remove any air in them so you can fit lots of plastic bags in the garbage bag. Collecting the bags in one place will make it easier for you to transport them. Most national grocery retailers, such as Safeway, Target, and Walmart, will have a bag collection bin in the store. The bins are usually at the front entrance of the store, labeled “bag recycling.” Put the plastic bags in the collection bin to be recycled.


Remove rust. Prevent rust from forming. Avoid long-simmering acidic foods. Avoid cleaning methods that can cause damage. Use hot water to clean hot pans.

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Iron is highly susceptible to rust, which can be caused when the metal is exposed to air and water. Seasoning your cast iron pan regularly will help prevent it from rusting. It’s important to remove rust spots immediately if they do begin to form, otherwise they will quickly spread.  Wet a mildly abrasive sponge or scrub pad with soapy water and scrub the rusted spots on the pan. To remove tough rust spots, try a bit of vinegar on the sponge.   Rinse the pan under hot water. Re-season the pan by coating it in vegetable shortening and baking it in the oven for an hour. There are a few things you can do to a cast iron pan that will virtually guarantee rust. To prevent rust from forming, avoid exposing the metal to moisture as much as possible:  Never immerse cast iron directly in water. Clean the pan by running water over, rather than submerging it in a full sink. Always dry cast iron cookware fully after using and washing. Store the pans in cupboards or from hooks with the lids off. Lids can trap air and moisture against the surface of the pan, and this will cause the metal to rust. The seasoning layer will protect your cast iron from small amounts of acid, so it’s ok to cook mildly acidic foods in your pan for short periods of time. But acidic foods that require long simmering times, such as tomato sauce, should be cooked in other cookware.  With a long-simmering acidic food, the acid can find weak spots in the seasoning layer, and this can eat away at the seasoning and start to corrode the metal. Be sure to remove acidic foods from your cast iron as soon as they're cooked, and wash the pan immediately. Always wash your cast iron by hand, and never put it in the dishwasher. The dishwasher will expose the pan to too much moisture, and this can lead to rust.  You should also avoid metal scouring pads on the cast iron, as these can damage the seasoning layer.  Harsh soaps and detergents can also remove the seasoning, so avoid them unless you plan to re-season the pan right away. Never pour cold water into a hot...


Remove scale insects and mealybugs by hand. Clean the affected leaves with soapy water. Spray the orchids with an insecticide if problems persist. Cut away any diseased tissue. Treat infections with fungicide or bactericide.

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Signs of scale insects and mealybugs include sticky leaves and black, sooty mold. Use your hands to remove all the visible insects on the top and underside of the leaves and flower stalks. After removing the insects by hand, add a squirt of dish soap to a cup or bowl and add room-temperature water. Dip a soft cloth in the solution, then gently wipe down each leaf and flower stalk. The soapy water will remove the stickiness and soot as well as kill any remaining insects. If you removed the bugs and cleaned the leaves but are still seeing signs of an infestation, pick up an insecticide at your local garden center. Ask an employee to help you find an insecticide that is safe to use on orchids. Follow the application instructions on the package. If you notice that your orchid has discolored leaves or spots on it (like cream, yellow, brown, or black), it is likely suffering from a disease. The first step is to remove as much of the infected tissue as possible. Use a sterile cutting tool to cut away diseased leaves, stems, and flowers. Be sure to disinfect your gardening tools before and after removing infected tissue. In some cases, it may be best to dispose of the entire plant to keep the disease from spreading. Common bacterial infections that may affect orchids include brown rot, black rot, and brown spot, indicated by dark spots on the leaves or pseudobulbs. Common fungal infections include blight and root rot, indicated by rotting roots, pseudobulbs, and leaves. After cutting away the infected tissue, spray the orchid with a fungicide or bactericide, depending on what it is suffering from. You can find these products at your local gardening center.


Remove sheets and bedding from the air mattress. Move the air mattress to a place where you have room to maneuver. Fill it as much as you can with air, without risking the mattress bursting. Inspect the valve.

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You won't be able to see holes or tears in the mattress with the bedding on. Move the bedding to a safe place, away from the area where you will look for leaks so that its out of the way. You will need to be able to walk around the mattress, flip it, and inflate it.  If you are camping it is a good idea to do this inside a tent away from breezes and noise. Make sure you have adequate light. You will need to be able to see well enough to look for holes. Air mattresses are not designed to be filled with high pressure sources such as air compressors.  You can use your breath or an air pump to inflate the mattress. Many air mattresses come with these to aid in inflation. Do not overinflate your mattress. Most manufacturers warn that this can cause a mattress to burst. It is a good idea to do this before inspecting the rest of the mattress, because the valve is a common source of leaks. Doing this first can save you a lot of time rather than searching for leaks using other methods since valves are a main source of leaks.   Make sure that the valve plug is completely inserted into the valve stem. For double locking valves, make sure that the valve stem has been completely pressed against the stop behind it. If there is a problem with the valve, it is unlikely to be able to be patched. However, if the valve plug won't seal against the valve stem you can try inserting a thin piece of plastic for a quick fix. If the valve plug is completely inserted into the valve stem, and the valve stem is completely pressed into the stop behind it, you are ready to look for a leak in the mattress itself.


Remove shoe laces and soak them in soapy water if necessary. Scrub suds gently into the canvas using a toothbrush. Use a laundry stain remover on tough stains. Sponge the canvas with clean water to remove the soap. Use a towel to absorb excess moisture before letting the shoes air dry.

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If your canvas Crocs have shoe laces, remove the laces and put them in a bucket or sink full of soapy water. Move the laces around in the water, rubbing the soapy water into them. Once they’re clean, rinse them with clean water and hang them to dry.  Use any type of mild soap, including detergent, dish soap, or even hand soap. Using a mild soap will ensure the canvas isn't damaged by harsh chemicals. Whether the water is cold or warm is up to you, just don't use water that's super hot so as not to harm the canvas. Dip a toothbrush designated for household cleaning or other small scrub brush into the soapy water and scoop some suds onto the brush. Test out a small section of the canvas before scrubbing the whole shoe to make sure the fabric won't be ruined. Gently scrub the canvas with the toothbrush until the shoes are clean. Don’t scrub over labels or print on the shoes to prevent them from coming off. If your canvas Crocs have stains on them that aren't coming out using the toothbrush method, try treating the spots with a stain remover that you would use on your clothes. Follow the directions for the specific stain remover, but make sure you let it sit on the stain for roughly 10 minutes before rinsing the stain remover out. Find a cloth or sponge and dip it in clean water. Wring the cloth or sponge out so it isn’t dripping before gently sponging the shoes. This should help remove all of the suds.  Wringing the cloth or sponge out is important — you don’t want the shoes to become soaking wet after they’ve been cleaned. You can also use the cloth or sponge to wipe dirt off of the rubber soles, if necessary. Pat the shoes with a towel to absorb extra water. Once the shoes are clean, you can let them air dry someplace warm, like in a sun room or on a porch. Don’t leave the shoes out in the sun — this will cause the dyed fabric to lose its color.


Remove spent blooms from the annuals. Water regularly. Fertilize annuals in pots or containers. Mulch around the annuals. Stake tall annuals.

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Once they begin blooming, most annuals will flower throughout the growing season. To keep them blooming, pinch off (deadhead) old flowers as they begin to wilt or fade. As long as the old blooms are removed, the plant will continue to produce flowers. Consult the seed packet to determine if your annuals benefit from deadheading. Some annuals, such as begonias, should not be deadheaded. Annuals have shallow root systems, so they require regular watering. For best results, water in the morning so the plants dry in the sun. Soak the soil completely, but be careful not to overwater, which can cause disease and fungus buildup. Monitor the health of your annuals to determine how often you need to water. If leaves or flowers droop or wilt, water the plants immediately. Annuals in the ground that were fertilized at planting typically do not need additional fertilizer. However, container-bound pots should be fertilized every few weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer. This will help maintain colorful flowers in the containers. Most annuals benefit from mulch, which helps the soil to retain moisture. Mulch also can help keep out weeds. Use organic mulch like shredded leaves, bark, grass clippings or other organic materials to improve the soil around the annuals. Some tall annuals can fall over, especially when they are in full bloom with heavy flowers. To keep them upright, stake them with wood and tie the tall stems to the stakes using twine.


Remove spent blooms immediately. Cut back flower stalks after removing spent blooms. Take out dead or damaged leaves and shoots.

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Pinch off dead or dying blooms as soon as they appear. Leaving dead blooms on the plant not only looks bad, it also keeps the plant from growing new blooms. You can pinch off dead blooms with your fingers, or snip them off just below the base using standard pruning shears. Use standard pruning shears to trim the flower stalk back to the second or third leaf. This encourages branching so that your plant will grow fuller with wider leaf coverage.  Make sure your pruning shears are sharp and clean so that you don't injure your plant or introduce disease. Disinfect your pruning shears with rubbing alcohol or bleach diluted in water. This helps prevent the spread of infection between plants. Cut off yellow, brown, or decaying leaves and stems at the base, slightly above where the branch meets the stem. Broken or damaged leaves and stems should be removed using the same procedure. Inspect the plant carefully to make sure you've removed all signs of decay or disease, or it may continue to spread throughout your plant. Removing dead and damaged foliage keeps your plant healthy and attractive.


Remove spinach from the freezer to thaw. Drain excess liquid if needed. Saute the thawed spinach in a pan. Boil the thawed spinach. Microwave for quick cooking.

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Let your frozen baby spinach thaw out in the refrigerator or out in the kitchen in room temperature in advance of cooking it.  Place the frozen spinach into your refrigerator a day or two in advance, or into a room temperature environment if you can only thaw a couple hours in advance. Keep frozen spinach in its original packaging or in a sealed bag or container to prevent mess from excess liquid during thawing. Use a microwave to defrost the spinach last-minute if you could not thaw it in advance. Don’t microwave it long enough to cook the spinach, only to defrost it. Remove the excess moisture created from thawing the frozen baby spinach, if desired, by squeezing or pressing the spinach lightly.  You only need to remove extra liquid if you are intending to later add the spinach to a bread, souffle, dip, or another similar recipe for which excess liquid could create a problem or different outcome.  Try placing thawed spinach into a cloth towel or a few paper towels and squeezing or patting it dry. Or, try using a potato ricer tool to press the liquid from the spinach.  You may decide not to drain spinach for recipes that won’t be harmed by extra liquid, or could even benefit from it by adding extra moisture while cooking. Cook your baby spinach in a skillet by adding the thawed spinach to a nonstick pan and heating evenly.  You can heat oil or butter over medium heat in the skillet before adding spinach, or simply use the natural water content of the spinach to protect it from sticking to the pan. Add your thawed baby spinach to the pan and gently stir or turn it with a spatula or tongs to heat the spinach evenly. You can cover the pan with a lid or simply continue to stir the spinach until it appears wilted and is heated through. Place your thawed baby spinach into a pot and cover it with water. Place the pot over high heat to bring the water to a boil.  Leave the spinach in the boiling water for three to five minutes before removing the pot from heat and pouring the contents into a colander to drain. Use a...


Remove sprouting seeds a week before sprouting, but keep them moist. Select a planting site. Clear the site. Plant the walnuts in small holes. Care for the growing seedlings.

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After the ground has thawed, and at least 90 days have passed, remove the seeds from their cold environment. Viable seeds should have a small sprout emerging. Keep the seeds moist for a full week before planting. All walnut species require high quality soil, and this step is especially important if you are starting a walnut orchard. Choose a location with well-draining, loamy soil at least three feet (0.9 m) deep. Avoid steep slopes, ridge tops, rocky soil, and soil with large amounts of clay. The lower areas of north-facing slopes are acceptable in rolling or mountainous terrain (or south-facing, if located in the Southern Hemisphere). Walnut is fairly versatile when it comes to soil pH. Soils between 6.0 and 6.5 pH may be best, but anything from 5 to 8 should be acceptable. Remove existing vegetation from the planting site before planting, as they will compete for the same nutrients the walnut tree or trees need. For an orchard-sized planting, cultivating the field to aerate the soil is also recommended. Dig small holes, about 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm) deep, and place the walnuts sideways at the bottom of these, then refill with dirt. When planting multiple trees, place the holes 12–17 feet (3.7—5.2m) apart, in a grid position.  Optionally, you may plant two or more nuts in each spot, 8 inches (20 cm) from each other. Once the seedlings have grown for a year or two, remove all but the healthiest from each spot. See the tips section for an alternate planting method to protect against squirrels and other small animals. The next section contains information on caring for seedlings and growing trees. Skip over the steps that involve planting trees from seedlings.


Remove stressors from your life. Practice  mindfulness. Communicate with your partner. Learn more about sex.

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Anxiety is one of the biggest culprits when it comes to ED. If you can find a way to de-stress, you'll be more likely to maintain erections. Think about the biggest sources of stress in your life right now. What can you do to give yourself a break?  If your schedule is packed from morning until night, think about what you can quit to give yourself more downtime. Turn off your electronics at least an hour before bed. You'll get better sleep, which is essential to de-stressing. Spend more time outside. Getting fresh air and being around nature is a great way to calm anxiety. Do you find yourself getting distracted by worries instead of living in the moment during sex? Mindfulness is the act of being completely in the present, both physically and mentally. Clear your mind and focus on the sensations your body is feeling during sex. If sex has become routine and under-stimulating, mix things up by adding new scents, textures, and sounds to the mix. For example, use massage oil or put on some music that gets you and your partner in the mood. Do you feel comfortable and accepted when it comes to your sexual performance? If you're worried about meeting your partner's too-high expectations or living up to some kind of standard, it will be harder to maintain an erection - it's called performance anxiety. If you think your partner's judgment might be hindering your ability to have satisfying sex, you need to communicate your needs and find ways to make your sexual environment more inviting. If you have deep-rooted anxieties or guilt related to sex, these negative emotions might be causing your ED. Learning more about sex can be a good way to feel more comfortable with your body and better understand your needs in bed. Read up on sex techniques or take a sex-positive workshop as a way to open your mind to new possibilities and increase your comfort level.


Remove surface debris with sanitizing wipes. Use cotton swabs, a foam brush, or a toothbrush in tight spaces. Make a homemade carpet freshener. Remove floor debris with a shop vac.

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Your local auto or home improvement store will carry wipes designed to clean and protect your car’s hard interior surfaces. If you’re wary of using harsher chemicals, try using baby wipes instead. Wipe down all hard surfaces and, if you’re left with any slick residue or lint, use a microfiber towel for the cleanest finish. Wipes and clothes will be clumsy if you have to remove trash particles or grime from cupholders, air conditioner vents, and other tight surfaces. Fortunately, there are a variety of household tools you can use to make the job easier. Dab your swab, foam brush, or toothbrush in water or any mild cleaning solution then use it to get inside your car interior’s nooks and crannies. Pour three tablespoons of baking soda into a plastic baggie. Add two or three drops of a your favorite essential oil, like lavender or rosemary. Mix the baggie to combine the ingredients, and then let them rest for 24 hours so the soda absorbs all of the oil. Sprinkle the mixture over your car’s upholstered surfaces and floor. Leave it for 10 to 15 minutes, then vacuum it up to remove unpleasant odors. A shop vac or wet/dry vac with multiple attachments is the best tool to use to vacuum your car’s interior. You can also use your household vacuum’s hose and attachments to do the job. Make sure to remove the floor mats and vacuum underneath the seats. Use the narrow attachment to vacuum crumbs away from tight spots. The soft bristle attachment is great for removing dust from plastic panels and other hard surfaces.


Remove synthetic hair from the bag. Cut the synthetic hair to your desired length. Apply glue to the center of the doll’s hair. Press a sewing needle to the glue. Remove the sewing needle. Glue the hair to the doll’s head. Style your doll hair.

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To start, you'll want to remove the synthetic hair from the bag it came in. This can be difficult, as synthetic hair is fine and often somewhat tangled or bunched up when packaged. Slowly remove small bunches of hair at a time, smoothing them out as you go and removing any fuzzy bits.  You may have to periodically use your fingers, or a doll comb, to comb through tangled bits of synthetic hair. It can get tangled easily. Keep removing small bunches of hair and smoothing them out until you have a long line of synthetic hair. Once you've removed and sorted through the synthetic hair, you can now cut the hair to the length appropriate for your doll. Cut the doll hair to the length you desire. The hair will drape over the doll’s head so cut the hair to twice the length that the doll’s hair length will be. Synthetic hair can sometimes be difficult to cut, as it's often unwieldy to handle. Dampening the hair may help it stay together more, allowing you to better judge where to cut. Wrap the strands of hair tightly around your pointer and middle finger, with the center of the strands exposed. This means you should wrap the hair so the midpoint of the hair is resting on your index finger. Apply a thin layer of tacky glue vertically across the center of the strands. Make sure you are covering as many strands as possible. If you're struggling to move the glue in a straight line, ask a friend to do this part for you. It may be hard to hold the hair with one hand and maneuver the glue with the other. Before the tacky glue dries, place a sewing needle along the line of glue you just applied. It helps to pinch the hair together underneath the needle, as close to the needle as possible. This process is a means to force the glue to seep through the hair, gluing all the strands together at the center. Hold the needle there while the tacky glue dries. Once again, this may be difficult to do on your own. If you're struggling to hold the needle in one hand, and the hair in the other, ask a friend for help. Once the glue is dry,...


Remove tarnish from silver or gold. Use baking soda.

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To remove tarnish from silver, you can also use household products.  Take ¼ of a cup of baking soda and mix it with 2 tablespoons of water into a thick paste. Take a damp sponge, and rub it on the silver, then rinse it, and dry it. You can also use baking soda to polish gold by covering the gold with a light coating of it. Then, pour vinegar over it, and rinse it. You can make gold shine more if you put a little bit of beer on a piece of towel and then rub it over the jewelry.   Believe it or not, but you can also put silver in ketchup to make it brighter. Put the jewelry in the ketchup only for a few minutes. This will remove built-up tarnish on earrings with silver backings or to polish earrings with gold backings.  For silver earrings, combine 1/4 of cup baking soda with 2 tablespoons of water in a small bowl. Dip a damp sponge into the baking soda mixture. Carefully rub the baking soda mixture on the metal backing of each earring. Dry and polish the earrings with a lint free cloth. For gold earrings, cover the backing with a light coating of baking soda. Carefully pour a small amount of vinegar over the backing. Rinse clean with water. Dry and polish the earrings with a lint free cloth.


Remove the Aloe vera plant from its current pot. Tend the roots. Choose a pot that is one-third larger than the root system. Use potting soil suitable for cactus or succulents. Replant your Aloe vera. Do not water immediately after repotting.

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One of the typical reasons for Aloe vera plant death is root rot. In order to determine if this is the case, you need to first take the plant out of its pot.  Loosely hold the base of the plant and the bottom of your pot. Tip the pot upside down, and continue holding the plant with your other hand. Hit the bottom of the pot with your hand or knock it against a table ledge (or other hard surface).  Depending on the size of your plant, you may need another person to help you. One person should hold the plant base with both hands, while the other person tips the pot upside down and hits the bottom.. You might also find it helpful to jostle the pot back and forth until the plant comes loose. If you still have difficulties removing your plant with two sets of hands, you can run a trowel or knife around the interior of the pot and try releasing it again, or push some of the soil out through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. If your plant still does not come out of the pot, you may need to break your pot, but this is a last resort.  While releasing the Aloe Vera plant from its pot, be sure that you are keeping the plant itself as steady as possible. All the movement should be centered on the pot, not the plant itself. In other words, hold, don’t pull, the plant. Hitting the bottom of the pot will keep your roots intact, and gravity will push the plant downward. Examine the roots and determine how many of the roots are still healthy. Mushy roots are characteristic of root rot and need to be removed. Any roots that aren’t black or mushy are good and can be kept.  If you see a lot of healthy roots and only a section of dead or mushy roots, you can likely save your plant without too much trouble, but you’ll need to cut away the damaged roots. You can use a sharp, sterilized knife to cut away the dead roots, but make sure to get them all. If you notice that the majority of your plant has damaged roots, it will take a little more effort to save the plant, and it may be beyond saving. In this case, you can try...


Remove the Micro SD card from the R4 card. Insert the Micro SD card into the Micro SD card reader. Plug the Micro SD card reader into the USB port of your computer. Drag the sav. Eject the USB drive and replace your Micro SD card in the R4 card.

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The Micro SD card is the smaller card that is inserted into the upper left corner of the R4 card. The card reader looks like a regular USB drive that connects to your computer, only it has a port for your Micro SD card on one end. This should have come in the package with your R4 card. A window will pop up with different options--select "Open folder." From there, open the "Games" folder and find the nintendogs sav. file. file into the trash to erase your game. You will lose all your saved progress--your dogs, money, trainer points, and items you have purchased. Make sure you really want to lose all those things before deleting the file! Return the R4 to your DS and open Nintendogs. Your game will be gone and you can start all over.


Remove the back cover of your phone. Remove your phone’s battery. Check your phone’s ESN.

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Take off the back cover of your phone by prying it off the casing. Once you’ve removed the back cover and exposed the back, take out the phone’s battery. Right on your phone’s battery bay, you’ll see a label containing all the various information about your phone, such as its model, where it was made, the IMEI code, and the ESN (numeric combinations that is commonly located right below the IMEI). You can also view your phone’s ESN code by opening the “About” section inside your phone’s settings. Accessing a phone’s settings varies depending on the make and model of your phone.


Remove the battery, if possible. Have the battery removed by professionals if you encounter resistance. Place the battery in a cool container.

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If your battery is removable, carefully take the swollen battery out of your cellphone. Make sure to handle the battery very gently and slowly to avoid puncturing it, which could be a safety risk. You may want to wear gloves or goggles for extra precaution when handling the battery. If the swollen battery does not come out easily, stop what you are doing. Take your cellphone to a local repair shop or electronics supply store, such as Best Buy, to have it removed by professionals. Trying to force out a swollen battery that's stuck in an electronic device can cause the battery to become punctured, which is a serious safety hazard. You should also take the battery to professionals if it is not removable or if you don't know how to remove it. As soon as you remove the battery, place it in a cool container and cover it. This will keep the battery from puncturing as you transport it to the proper disposal center.


Remove the beef from the pot and let it rest. Reduce the remaining liquid to create a sauce. Pair with an appropriate side. Finish the dish with chopped herbs or other additions and garnishes.

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When the beef is done cooking, remove it from the braising liquid, set it on a plate or a carving board, and cover it with foil to retain the heat. Braised beef should rest for at least 10 or 15 minutes before you carve it.  You can carve braised beef however you wish to serve it, depending on the particular cut. Slices are appropriate for brisket, while short ribs will likely be left whole. Fork-pulling some roasts might be appropriate, as well, if you want more of a BBQ-style dish. If you've added additional vegetables, you can remove them as well, if you want to reduce the liquid to create a sauce or gravy. Spoon into a serving bowl, cover, and set aside. After you've removed the beef, put the pot back on the stovetop over medium-high heat to reduce the amount of liquid by half, or until it reaches the consistency you desire. Season the sauce to taste with salt, pepper, and a dash of Worcestershire.  If you want to make gravy, you can also thicken the sauce by mixing a slurry of about a tablespoon of flour and a quarter-cup of sauce in a separate bowl. When the slurry is mixed thoroughly, with all the lumps whisked out, add it to your sauce slowly, whisking as you go. If you dusted the meat with flour before browning it, the sauce might thicken on its own by reduction. Cook it down some to check for the thickness before you worry about starting a slurry. Other additional aromatics like ginger, lemongrass, grated citrus rind, or garlic can be added to the liquid as it reduces for the sauce. Most commonly, you'll see braised beef paired with the vegetables it was braised with, if you chose to include any, and a potato dish of some sort. Braised beef is excellent with the following side dishes:   mashed potatoes or mashed sweet potatoes  hash browns sweet parsnips turnips or "neeps" greens like mustard, collard, turnip, or beet A bit of chopped flat-leaf parsley, rosemary, or fresh herb of your choice can liven up the braised beef. Arrange on a platter, spooning over the reduced sauce or gravy you made from...


Remove the bit.

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Once you loosen the chuck, the drill bit that you currently have in the drill will start to wobble. You should be able to easily pull it out of the drill once the jaws that clamp it to the drill are loose.


Remove the bottom rack to expose the salt reservoir. Unscrew the cap and check for water. Use only dishwasher salt in your softener unit. Pour salt into the funnel until the reservoir is full. Clean excess salt with a wet cloth. Screw the cap on tightly. Replace the bottom rack and run the dishwasher normally.

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Pull the bottom rack out completely and set it on your kitchen counter. You may need to lift it up slightly to unclip it from its rollers. Your reservoir will be on the bottom of the dishwasher, probably off to one side. If you don’t see a reservoir, your dishwasher may not have a built-in water softener. Water softener units have caps that need to be tightly secured after each use. Unscrew this cap and set it to the side. If this is the first time you’re using your unit, it needs to be filled with water. Pour enough in to fill it to the top of the opening. After the first time you use it, your softener unit should always have a bit of water in it. You won’t need to refill it. You can find specially made dishwasher salt at grocery stores, hardware stores, or online. It doesn’t matter which brand of you choose, but you cannot use table salt, sea salt, or kosher salt as a replacement for dishwasher salt. These cooking salts contain additives that might actually increase the hardness of your water. They may also be too fine, which could clog the unit. Different dishwashers will have differently sized units that take various amounts of salt, so there’s no precise measurement for this process. Pour salt into the unit until it’s completely filled up. Since you also have water in the unit, you’re creating a saltwater brine that will refresh the chemical processes that occur in the built-in softener. Using a funnel to pour your salt will help you avoid spills. Hold the funnel above the reservoir instead of plunging it into the unit. If the funnel gets wet, the salt won’t pour through it properly. If you’ve spilled any salt in the dishwasher around the unit, wipe it up with a wet cloth. The salt you pour in the softener unit never actually touches your dishes, as it just stays in the unit itself. If you leave loose salt in the dishwasher, however, it will get mixed in with the water that cleans your dishes. This won’t hurt them, but it may give you slightly dirty (or salty) dishes for one cycle. You can also run a...


Remove the breech plug. Remove the ramrod and nipple. Soak the nipple and breach plug in bore cleaner. Clean the barrel with the ramrod. Run a dry cleaning patch through the barrel. Dry and reinstall the breech plug and nipple.

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The “breech” of a muzzle loader is in front of the bolt mechanism; think of it as the base end of the barrel. The breech plug is a roughly two-inch metal “plug” located at the back of the breech. You can unscrew this using your firearm’s combo tool or a screwdriver as needed. To find the specific location of the nipple and breech plug on your muzzleloader, consult the diagram or layout of the firearm that came with the gun. The ramrod is on the underside of the barrel, and can be slid out by pulling forward on its tip (at the muzzle of the gun). The nipple is a small metal nub (about ¼ inch high) that the firing cap is set on for the firing pin to strike and ignite the charge when firing. The nipple is set on the tip of the breech plug. You should be able to pull this off, but may need to unscrew it with your muzzleloader’s combo tool. Before you begin cleaning the barrel, run the ramrod down once to make sure that the barrel is unloaded and contains no charge. These parts can be completely submerged in bore cleaner oil and left there as you finish cleaning the firearm. Pour approximately a quarter cup of bore cleaner oil into a small, clean bowl, and set the nipple and breach plug inside. The bore cleaner oil will loosen any grime or powder residue that has accumulated on these parts.  Take a small cleaning brush (a toothbrush in a pinch) and dampen it with bore cleaner oil. Use this to scrub clean the threads inside the breach that you have unscrewed the breech plug from. When working with cleaning oils, be careful not to spill them, as they will likely stain your clothing and carpet. You’ll need to first dampen a cleaning patch with bore cleaner oil. Once the patch is damp, set it on the end of the ramrod. A cleaning patch is a small piece of cloth which is pushed through the barrel in order to clean out any powder residue. Once you’ve balanced the patch on the tip of the ramrod, push this through the barrel from tip to base. For some muzzleloaders, the ramrod must be assembled before being used to clean...


Remove the broom head.

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Many broom sticks are threaded, which allows you to unscrew the broom head from the broom stick. Having the broom head separated from the stick can make it easier to clean your broom.


Remove the bumper from the vehicle. Wash the chrome bumper with soap and water. Remove rust from the bumper if necessary. Sand the entire chrome bumper evenly. Wipe down the bumper using grease and wax remover. Cover any areas of the bumper you don’t want painted with tape.

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Removing the chrome bumper from your car will make it easier for you to carry out the process of painting it. To remove your front bumper, open your hood to find the screws and bolts that connect your bumper to the front of your car and remove these screws. Your rear bumper is also attached with screws and bolts, most of which are on the outside, so you simply unscrew these to remove it. You want to make sure you remove all of the fingerprints, dust, or dirt that is on the bumper’s surface. Wash the bumper thoroughly with soap and water, and then carefully dry the bumper so that it’s no longer damp. Chrome rusts easily, so if your bumper is rusty you’ll need to remove the rust before you can start painting. To do this, mix vinegar and baking soda together until they form a thick paste. Take a rag or some sort of cloth and cover the rusted area with the paste. Let it sit for about 5 minutes, and then use steel wool to rub the rust off of the bumper.  The vinegar and baking soda mixture should cause the rust particles to loosen. If your bumper still shows signs of rust, repeat the process over again. Wipe down the bumper with water or soap once you’ve removed the rust to be sure to have a nice clean surface. To apply paint to your bumper, you need to create a workable surface for the primer. Use sandpaper or a dual action sander to remove any imperfections. Start with a coarser sandpaper, such as 60- or 120-grit, and then use 320-grit paper for a finer finish. The goal is to remove the shiny quality from the chrome surface.  If you need to remove flaking spots, deep scars, or do heavy sanding, you should use 40- to 60-grit paper. For fixing small imperfections, try 80- to 120-grit paper. For a very smooth surface, use 360- to 600-grit paper. This should leave you with a surface without many scratches. Grease and wax remover will get rid of any additional traces of dirt, oil, grease, and other contaminants. Remnants of dirt will cause a bad paint job, so be sure to wipe the bumper with wax and grease remover...


Remove the burned food entirely. Open your windows. Turn on the fans. Clean every surface. Wash or discard items that smell.

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Once the burned item is fully cool, throw it away. Take all burned food, put it in a plastic bag, and put it in the garbage can outside of your house. Remove it from your home - don't put it in the garbage disposal or in a garbage can in your kitchen. The smell will still continue to linger in the air. Open the windows to let the smell out and bring fresh air in. This is the quickest and simplest way to get the air in your house circulating. Open up all of your windows and outside doors, especially near the kitchen. To help circulate the air more quickly, bring out all of the electric fans in your home and plug them in beside open windows and doors. Turn them on to the highest speed possible in order to get the air moving. If you have a kitchen fan/stovetop fan, turn that on too. Wash down all surfaces in rooms where the odor is noticeable. Use  bleach or a disinfectant to clean the surfaces and to mop the floor. If the smell is very strong, wash the walls. Launder all items made of fabric from the rooms where the smell is noticeable. This includes table cloths, curtains, and slip covers. Use bleach if that won't ruin the fabrics. If the smell permeated any cardboard boxes in the kitchen, move the contents of the boxes to plastic baggies and recycle the boxes.


Remove the burners from the stovetop. Use a soapy, damp dishcloth to wipe down the burners. Clean tough stains with a mixture of baking soda and water. Rinse each burner with a damp cloth. Allow the burners to dry completely before replacing them.

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Ensure that the burners have had time to cool completely before beginning this project. Gently pull the burners straight out from the connection point then lift them away. Refer to your appliance manual if you have difficulty. Put a small amount of dish soap on a dishcloth and wet it. Wring out the excess water, then use the cloth to wipe the burners. Avoid getting any part of the electrical connection wet, and never submerge the burners in water! Make a paste from equal parts baking soda and water. Apply it to tough or stubborn stains on the burner. Allow it to soak for up to 20 minutes, then scrub the burner with a damp sponge. Use a clean, damp dishcloth to remove the soap residue and any food or crumbs from each burner. Let the burners air dry or use a microfiber towel to dry them. Reconnect each burner to the appropriate connection point and set them back onto the stove.


Remove the casserole from the oven and allow it to cool. Slice the casserole with a knife and serve.

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Place the hot casserole dish on a towel or heat-safe surface and leave it to cool. This may take up to 20 minutes. If you have a wire cooling rack, allow the casserole dish to rest on it to cool. The casserole will cool more quickly if air can circulate underneath the dish. Use a knife to carefully slice the casserole into your desired portions. Serve the casserole slices onto plates using a spatula. Consider wrapping the slices and storing them in the refrigerator to have breakfasts prepped for the week!


Remove the chain if it has heavy surface rust. Run the chain through a rag wet with degreaser. Soak chains with heavy grime and buildup in degreaser for 20 minutes. Scrub away light rust with steel wool wet with lime juice. Rinse away lime juice with soapy water after removing rust. Break up tough rust with WD-40 and a wire brush.

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If your chain has a master link, use your hands to slide the pin out of the slot in which it’s seated. When the chain disengages, pull it free. Without a master link, you’ll need to jump a link off one of the gear spikes. After the first link, the rest should come off easily, then pull the chain out of the drivetrain.  Removing the chain is especially important for chains with heavy surface rust and grime. Chains with light rust and dirtiness can often be cleaned with the chain attached. Chains without a master link are reinserted into the drivetrain in the same fashion they are removed, only in reverse. Dampen a clean rag with degreaser. Pull the chain through the rag to remove buildup and grease. Stubborn buildup might need a vigorous scrubbing or buffing with the rag before it comes free. For severe buildup, you may need to soak your chain in degreaser. Fill a bottle with degreaser, allow the chain to soak in it for 20 minutes, then rinse the chain in a second bottle filled with hot water. Most degreasers can be quite harsh on the skin. Wear latex gloves when using a degreaser unless otherwise indicated on its label This de-rusting technique can be rough on the hands, so slip on some latex gloves before you try it. Next, wet a piece of steel wool thoroughly with lime juice. Scrub rusted areas with the steel wool to remove rust, then wipe the surface clean with paper towel.  Rust that is neutralized and scrubbed free may gunk up your steel wool. If this happens, rinse it in hot water, reapply the lime juice, and continue scrubbing. When breaking up large amounts of rust, you may need to wipe the surface periodically so you can see how much rust is left on the surface. Lime juice contains a good amount of sugar. You won’t want this drying on your chain and gumming up the works, so make sure to rinse the chain in warm or hot water mixed with a little dish soap. Spray WD-40 directly onto the clean, rusted surfaces of your chain in sections. Allow this to sit for a moment so the solution can soak in. After...


Remove the cheese from its original plastic packaging. Wrap it in cheese paper, wax paper, or parchment paper. Label the cheese with the type and date that you bought it. Wrap the paper-covered cheese in plastic wrap. Keep the cheese in a drawer in the fridge for up to 1 month.

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Leaving cheese that’s been vacuum-sealed in plastic wrap in its original wrapper is a bad idea. It suffocates the cheese and can give it a plastic flavor. Gently unwrap the piece of cheese and take it out of the packaging to store it.  Smell or taste your cheese. If there’s a chemical flavor, use a knife to scrape off a thin top layer around the whole piece of cheese. That will remove the area of the cheese that’s been affected by the plastic packaging. If you bought cheese from a deli or cheesemonger and it’s already wrapped in wax paper or cheese paper, skip this step. Tear off a sheet of paper and lay it flat on the counter. Place your unwrapped block of cheese in the center. Fold the paper up around the cheese, creasing the folds so that the paper lies flat against the cheese. Make sure the cheese is completely covered.  A good rule of thumb for measuring your piece of paper is to tear off a piece that’s 2 times as wide as the length of your cheese and 3 times as long.  Use tape to secure the paper in place for extra protection. Cheese paper is more expensive. If you’re on a budget, opt for wax paper or parchment paper for a similar effect that costs less. Use a permanent marker to write directly on the paper covering the cheese or stick a label on it. Include what kind of cheese is inside (Cheddar, Swiss, etc.) and when it was purchased. This is especially important if you have multiple cheeses in your fridge so you don’t have to unwrap them all to find the one you want.  If you use a sticker label, it doubles as tape to hold the paper in place around the cheese. Writing the date will help you know when the cheese is expired or needs to be thrown away. Add a layer of plastic wrap as additional protection so your cheese doesn’t absorb the flavors of the fridge. Place your covered, labeled piece of cheese on a sheet of plastic wrap and roll it up. Don’t leave any parts of the paper underneath uncovered.  If you don’t have plastic wrap, a partially sealed plastic bag will work. Sit your covered cheese...


Remove the closet bolt caps on each side of the toilet if you haven’t already. Lift the toilet up and set it aside. Expose the closet flange. Lift the closet flange out of the drain hole carefully. Check for rotten or damaged flooring. Inspect the closet flange for damage. Install new closet bolts into the closet flange. Install a new wax ring over the closet flange. Put the toilet back in place and reattach it to the floor. Test your adjustments.

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Locate the 2-4 bolt caps on the bottom of your toilet. Take the bolt caps off with your hands and expose the hex nuts. Then, unscrew the hex nuts with your wrench to detach the toilet from the floor. Toilets can be heavy and unwieldy. If you're not confident in your own strength, have another person help you lift the toilet up and move it out of the way as you work. Toilets can leak after they've been removed from the floor. Set it on a towel or some newspapers until you're ready to reattach it. The closet flange is a round, flat tube with a cylinder on the bottom. Remove the wax from the flange with a putty knife, then remove the screws that attach the closet flange to the floor with a screwdriver. Use a wrench to loosen the closet flange bolts so you can remove the closet flange from the drain. To inspect the closet flange for damage you will need to remove it from the drain hole. Work slowly to avoid chipping or damaging the flange. Clean it off with a washcloth and soap in your sink or bathtub so you can see it clearly while working. In newer homes, the closet flange may be fixed to the drain with PVC glue. If that’s the case, buy a repair flange to fit over the existing one. Use a level to make sure the repair flange is level, then screw it into the floor. Inspect the flooring for mold, mildew, or signs of decay. If the subfloor is rotten or severely damaged, it will need to be fixed by a professional unless you have previous experience replacing flooring. Call a home repair business to determine the severity of the damage and whether the flooring will need to be replaced. If the floor is uneven but not damaged, you could cut out a plywood base slightly larger than the toilet. Place it under the toilet so it sits on a flat surface, and cut a hole in the center of the plywood for the closet flange. If your closet flange has any chips or cracks, your toilet may wobble or exhibit other problems. You may need to replace your toilet flange if you notice any damage. If so, purchase a new closet flange in the...


Remove the cooked turkey from the oven. Pour the drippings into a bowl. Let the liquid separate. Skim the fat off the liquid.

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While you are making the giblet broth, you should also be roasting the rest of the bird. When the turkey is done roasting, take it out of the oven and move the cooked turkey off of the roasting pan. Take the roasting pan that the turkey was cooking on and pour the drippings into a medium-sized bowl. Use oven mitts because the pan will be extremely hot! Leave the turkey drippings in the bowl for about fifteen minutes. You should see that the liquid starts to separate, with the dark drippings at the bottom of the bowl and the clear fat rising to the top. After the mixture has finished separating, use a ladle or large spoon to scoop the clear fat on top out of the mixture. Make sure not to use too much force and mix up the liquid as you are scooping out the fat.  You can also slowly lower the ladle into the liquid and let the fat spill over into the bowl of the ladle. This will ensure that the mixture doesn’t get mixed. Reserve some of the fat so that you can add it to the gravy.


Remove the core from crisp lettuce heads. Wrap the lettuce in paper towels. Store in a plastic container. Place in the crisper drawer. Watch the container.

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Iceberg, romaine, and other lettuce with a stiff core last longer when this core is removed. Cut out the core with a knife, or pound the stem against a cutting board firmly, then twist the stem to remove the core by hand. Do not remove the stem from butter lettuce, or any lettuce with loose, tender leaves. Sandwich the head of lettuce — or loose leaves in single layers — between two soft, absorbent paper towels. These will absorb excess water but keep the lettuce in the moist conditions it prefers.  If the lettuce feels dry, dampen the paper towels.  If the lettuce is wet enough to soak the towels, squeeze them out and wrap the lettuce again in the same, moist paper towels. If the lettuce is a bag of loose leaves, spin them dry in a salad spinner. This can be a zip-locked bag, hard plastic container, or even a salad spinner. If using a bag, press out some of the air before sealing, without bruising the leaves. If using a hard container, fill it at least halfway with leaves. The more air in the container, the faster you'll get brown edges. If you press out all the air and seal the container completely, the lettuce may develop off flavors due to poor respiration. Leaving a little air or cracking the container slightly may be a better idea, especially with leaf lettuce or a fridge that's on the warm side. This is the coldest part of your fridge, which is ideal for leafy greens. Most grocery store lettuce should last 3-7 days here, depending on freshness, while iceberg may last up to two weeks. Fresh lettuce from your garden or a farm stand may last longer.  Do not squeeze the leaves into tight spaces with other foods, which may cause bruising. Do not store in the same drawer as apples, pears, or tomatoes, which release high amounts of ethylene gas that can cause spoilage. If water is running down the sides of the container, lower your fridge's humidity settings or open the crisper drawer's air vents wider. (You may also want to drain out the excess water.) If you see ice in the crisper drawer or on the leaves,...


Remove the cover plate from the right-angle connector. Push electrician’s fish tape down into the extension box. Tape copper wires to the fish tape. Pull the wires up to the right-angle connector. Use the fish tape to pull the wires through the junction box. Assemble the floodlights according to the owner’s manual. Trim the cable at the outlet box. Strip Join the cables to the flood lights. Attach the floodlights to the wall. Connect the wires at the junction box. Connect a switch to the extension box.

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The right-angle connector you want to adjust is the one closest to the extension box. It should be at the top of the first conduit tube you secured to the wall. Undo the screws on the connector’s surface to remove the cover plate. Fish tape is a hook on a cord rather than tape and it is used to pull wires through tight spaces. Unspool the tape from the reel and lower the hook through the conduit tubing until it emerges from the extension box. Fish tape, along with electrician’s tape and copper wires, can be found at any hardware store. You will need 1 strand of white, black, and green 14-gauge stranded copper wire. Use electrician’s tape to bind the ends of the wires to the fish tape. Go back to the right-angle connector. Pull the fish tape out of it to raise the wires up to you. Pull the wires far enough out of the connector so they won’t fall back down. Take off the electrical tape to remove the fish tape. Go to the junction box, which is above the garage door, and feed the fish tape through it. At the right-angle connector, pull out the fish tape and fasten the wires to it again. Pull the wires through the conduit tubes to the junction box. Follow the directions to assemble the lights. Typically you will twist the lights into the holes on the mount by hand. The lights won’t be completely tightened until you finish hanging them later. At the outlet box on the outside of the garage, pull the cable out a little and measure it using the tape measure. Leave about 6 in (15 cm) of wire exposed. Cut the wire to length using wire cutters or pliers. the insulation from the wires. First, use a utility knife to gently remove the plastic sheathing around the wires. Then use wire strippers to expose 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) of the black and white wires. If the flood light wires aren’t already exposed, strip them as well. Hold the same-color wires together. Use pliers to twist the wires clockwise, wrapping them together. Place a wire nut over each connection and wrap it in electrical tape to be safe. The electrical work can be...


Remove the cover plates. Remove the reed plates. Soak the reed plates. Clean the comb. Clean the reed plates. Reassemble.

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Use an appropriate screwdriver to remove the cover plates of the harmonica. Some harmonicas use a Phillips-head screwdriver, while others use a flat head. Make sure to find a screwdriver of the appropriate size.  Place the screws in a safe place where they won't be lost. Spray both sides of the cover plates with alcohol and then wipe with a cloth. After removing the cover plates, use the screwdriver to remove the screws attached to the reed plates. Keep the screws in the order from which you remove them so they are placed back in the same hole as before. Place the reed plates into a solution of warm water and vinegar or lemon juice. Let them soak for approximately half an hour. While the reed plates are soaking, clean the comb. If the comb is plastic, you can clean it with soap and water. Use a soft toothbrush to brush the deposits off the comb. Another option is to spray the comb with alcohol and brush it with a soft brush. You can also use something sharp to dig any build-up off the comb. If you have a wooden comb, do not use water or soap. Just use the brush or the sharp object. If you have a metal comb, make sure to dry it thoroughly before reassembling. Remove the reed plates from the water. Use a soft toothbrush to brush the reed plates. Do not scrub the reed plates with the toothbrush. You want to gently brush the reed plates along the reeds from the rivet down. Don't brush against the reeds or snag the ends of the reeds. This can damage the reeds or mess up the notes of the harmonica.  Never brush across the reed. Only brush in the direction of the reed. Clean the other side of the reed plate as vigorously as you want since it has no reeds. Then run it under warm water to rinse.  You can also clean the reed plates with a q-tip and hydrogen peroxide. Let all of the harmonica parts completely dry. Then, reassemble the harmonica. Screw the screws back in gradually. Tighten all three of them evenly before you tighten them as far as they can go.


Remove the dish from the oven and let it cool slightly.

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Once the 30 minutes is up, or when you see the cheese is brown and bubbly, carefully take the casserole out of the oven. Set it on a hot pad or trivet to rest briefly before eating. You’ll burn your mouth if you dig in too quickly! If there are leftovers, keep them in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 4 days.


Remove the dressing when necessary. Make a salt water disinfectant. Remove your dog’s bandage. Rinse the wound as needed. Apply fresh dressings.

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Whether you go to the vet clinic, or decide to assess things at home, be prepared and get everything ready before you remove the dressing. You will need:  Scissors to remove the dressing. Disinfectant. A bowl. Clean water. Cotton wool. More dressing materials to re-bandage your dog’s head. Before you remove your dog’s bandage, make the salt water disinfectant. Dilute one teaspoon of salt into two cups of clean, warm water. Soak clean cotton balls in the salt water and have these handy when you are ready to clean the ear flap. If it is not possible to unravel the dressing, or you cannot untie the fabric you used, you may need to cut it off. Take great care when using the scissors so that you don’t cut either yourself or the dog. Always cut the dressing beneath the dog's chin so that you will have no chance of cutting your dog’s ears.  To cut the bandage, slide your left hand in under the bandage to cover the dog's skin if you are right handed. Hold the scissors in your right hand and hold the long blades so that they are pointing from nose to tail. With the scissors in position, cut away the bandage. Never cut along the top of your dog’s head. If you take too deep a snip of bandage you may accidentally cut his ear. Your vet will provide you with detailed instructions on how often to clean the wound, or if you should clean it at all. As a general rule, clean warm water or a warm saline solution work best for cleaning wounds. Your vet will give you specific details on how often you should change the bandages and clean the wound, but expect to change the dressings at least once a day when the wound first begins healing. You may have to change the bandages twice a day if the wound has become infected.