Prune sage in the springtime. Cut stems so they are at least 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) from the ground. Remove spent leaves throughout the year. Prune your sage plant lightly during its first year to ensure that it grows fully.

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It is not advisable to prune sage during the fall or winter. Pruning will make way for tender new growth that will be vulnerable to the cold and may be damaged or killed. Trim your sage plants in the springtime instead, just as new leaves begin to emerge. Live woody stems can easily be mistaken for dead stems if they are pruned too early, so it is best to wait until some new growth emerges before starting. Use sharp scissors or garden shears to cut back the stems on your sage plant, just above new growth. Plants that are allowed to grow tall will likely fall over and their bottom leaves will be damaged. Make sure that there are still shoots on the remaining stems, and trim them less to ensure this if necessary.  Trim back half of the plant to ensure rejuvenation. You can perform basic maintenance on your sage plants all year round by removing dead or dying leaves as you see them. Gently pinch and pull away leaves that are yellow in hue, shrunken, or dried up. If necessary, use scissors or pruners to cut the stems and remove dead leaves. Young, growing sage plants can be vulnerable to damage if over-trimmed. During its first year, focus mostly on removing damaged or spent leaves. Be conservative about cutting away branches in the spring to ensure the plant's strength during colder seasons.


Prune sweet shrub in early summer, after flowering. Protect your Sweet Shrub from disease. Transplant Sweet Shrub in fall or winter. Don't eat any part of the Sweet Shrub plant.

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Sweet Shrub requires little in the way of maintenance, but you may like to prune it to keep the plant in shape and prevent it from growing too wide. Pruning should be done immediately after flowering, which means in the early summer.  Due to the fact that this plant spreads by producing side shoots known as suckers, you can control the width by pinching these off as they emerge.     Thinning out old growth will usually ensure the new growth comes through more vigorously the following growing season.    Sweet Shrub doesn’t tend to be bothered by disease but root rot can occur in poorly-drained soil. To avoid this, don’t plant the bush where puddles form and don’t easily drain away.  If you observe warty growths on stems close to the ground, this may indicate bacterial crown gall.     The best solution is to remove the plant and surrounding soil to prevent re-infection.    If you need to transplant Sweet Shrub, do it in fall or winter. Take cuttings in July if you wish to quickly reproduce from a parent plant.  To reproduce a plant from suckers, take a rooted sucker and replant it until a proper root system is established before planting on. This is usually the fastest way to get a mature flowering plant. Although it has been eaten as a spice in the past, Sweet Shrub is poisonous in large enough quantities, especially the seed. Don’t confuse it will true Allspice, which is best purchased from the grocery store!


Prune the Christmas cactus about a month after blooming. Propagate a Christmas Cactus by cutting off short, Y-shaped sections of the stem. Repot every 2-3 years.

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This will encourage the plant to branch out, especially after a period of "rest" has been granted. It will not look very pretty after the blossoms have faded. Some people wait until March or so, when new growth begins, to prune the cactus. As mentioned before, cease watering for 30 days post-bloom. When you see new growth forming, you can begin watering again. Each section must consist of two or three joined segments. Allow each section to dry for a few hours before pushing them into a 3-inch pot that contains the same potting soil as the parent plant. Plant halfway down the first segment and water sparingly to prevent rot from developing. Treat the cuttings as mature plants. In about four to six weeks, the cuttings should have rooted and will begin to show some new growth. They grow quickly, and should take in about two or three weeks. You can fertilize after the cutting has grown one new segment. Your plant should be fine for a couple of years unless the root system gets diseased or harmed. Apart from this, a new pot is needed when the roots have filled it or when the soil has been officially depleted of nutrients. Most people do this in the spring.  When replanting or repotting, use new, fresh soil. It's worth the few extra dollars since it will probably be sitting in that soil for a long time. Your plant is a living thing like you, so it deserves the best. The best time for repotting is between February and April, about once every three years. Just be sure not to give it a pot that's too big; the Christmas Cactus flowers best when it's pot-bound.


Prune the magnolia once a year, in early spring. Always use sharp pruning tools when pruning a tulip magnolia. Prune the tree immediately after planting. Prune the tree again two years after planting. Use the correct pruning technique.

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Tulip magnolias do not require extensive pruning, but some selective pruning while the tree is young and an annual tidying up will help the tree to develop stronger branches and a more pleasing shape. Tulip magnolias should be pruned in late spring after they finish blooming. Never prune a tulip magnolia after July 1st as the new flower buds for the following spring have already been formed. The type of tool to use depends on the thickness of the branches.  Small branches with a diameter up to ½ inch can be pruned with bypass hand pruners that cut with a scissor-type action. Branches between ½ inch and 2 inches (5.1 cm) thick should be pruned with anvil-type lopping shears. A pruning saw should be used for branches thicker than 2 inches (5.1 cm). If the tulip magnolia is purchased as a bare-root tree and some of the roots are damaged, prune off about 1/3 of the canopy right after planting to help compensate for the reduction in healthy roots.  Do not cut the tip off of the top of the central leader or main trunk of the tree. Sharp hand pruners can be used to simply trim the branches back by about 1/3 of the branch length. Let the tree grow un-pruned for the next two years. Two years after the tree is planted, some branches may need to be removed to improve the tree’s shape and structure.  Step back and look closely at the branch spacing along the trunk and the angle of the branches. They should be evenly spaced along the length of the trunk. If a few branches need to be removed to even out the spacing, prune off branches that have a narrow crotch angle first. These tend to be weak and break off of the tree easily due to strong winds or ice build-up. Ideally, the branches should grow out from the trunk at a 30- to 60-degree angle. Always make the cut just beyond the branch collar, which is the slightly raised area at the base of the branch. Do not nick or cut the branch collar.  Prune off branches that are growing at the proper angle only if necessary to even up the spacing. Small, green sprouts may grow from...


Prune to an inch above the wood. Don't take away the wood itself. Trim away dead or damaged parts in spring.

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In the fall, after the second flush has come and gone, prune the stems down to an inch above the wood. Leaving them long will create space for snow to collect on the shrub and break it, or wind to blow off weaker branches. Pruning the shrub to prep for winter will make it much more likely to survive the harsh weather. Taking the time to do this will also help to prevent more of the shrub from turning to wood. The parts of the plant that turn to wood won't produce new lavender stalks; the stalks grow from new shoots that emerge from the shrub every year. A big, woody base is prone to cracking or rotting, so the idea is to keep it from getting too woody. Even though you don't want the base to get too woody, you can't cut away old wood on a lavender shrub. Some shrubs rejuvenate themselves when you cut back the wood, but lavender doesn't. What you cut won't grow back. Make sure you never cut the part of the shrub that has turned to wood. If you live in a place with heavy snows and harsh weather, your lavender bush is likely to lose a few branches over the winter. Examine the shrub in early spring, before it begins producing new shoots. Remove any broken or rotting branches to make way for new growth.


Prune young oaks in mid to late winter, or January through March. Prepare your tools for trimming. Establish a dominant leader branch. Make cuts outside the branch collar. Keep the crown of the tree full. Keep trimming each year to shape your tree.

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Trimming your tree during the winter months allows it to care for its wounds in spring when it will recover more quickly.  Limit trimming only to dead or broken branches on newly planted trees. Two to three years after planting you can begin developmental trimming to shape the tree. Learn the growth habits of your particular type of oak tree Before trimming, you’ll need to soak your clippers and saw blade with 9 parts water and 1 part bleach. Then rinse the tools off and let them air dry. To create a healthy oak tree that create beautiful shade, you need to develop one dominant branch on the tree. Look at your tree and notice the largest branches. There maybe 2 or even 3 branches that are all large and a similar size to each other. As the tree grows, these will turn into multiple leaders and create a weaker tree.  Decide which branch looks like it is the most vertical and centered on the trunk  and choose that one to be the dominant leader.  Trim the other branches that may turn into other leaders by reducing their size to allow more sunlight to reach the dominant leader you chose. Keep the dominant leader long. The branch collar is the swelling at the base of the branch where it begins to connect to the trunk. Trimming branches down to the branch collar will hurt the main trunk of the tree causing it damage to important tissues necessary for growth.  Shorten large branches by cutting them back to a lateral branch or bud. Always make angled cuts to encourage growth Never remove more that one third of the tree’s canopy in a single season. The tree depends on a healthy crown to create food from the sunlight and grow healthy roots in the ground. This is especially important when the tree is young. You need to prune young trees yearly to keep them growing healthily. Make sure the dominant leader is always the largest branch and trim back any large splits. Trim the branches that will prevent your tree from growing how you want it to:  Dead, diseased, or broken branches Branches that cross over or rub other...


Prune young trees yearly. Move your tree into a shady area for pruning. Cut no more than three inches (7.6 cm) off main stems. Remove or cut down subordinate stems. Remove crowded, damaged, and infected limbs.

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Trimming branches helps shape your plumeria and encourages growth the following year. The beginning of winter is a good time to prune your tree, just before storing for the season. Established, mature trees only need pruning to keep them at their preferred size, or if they have damaged or diseased limbs.  Plumeria are considered young for 3 or 4 years. After this, they only need to be pruned when they outgrow their space or require shaping. Never remove more than 10% of the branches to avoid stressing your frangipanis and inhibiting new growth. Blooms only grow at the end of branches and take two years to form on cut branches.  Consider pruning only half of the tree one winter, and the other half the following year to maintain seasonal flowering. Frangipanis should not be exposed to direct sunlight during pruning or in the few days following it.  If your plumeria is planted in the ground, wait until the sun is less intense and no extreme weather is expected for a few days. Doing this the first few years will encourage trees to produce more branches and become fuller. Use hand pruners and cut the stem at an angle. After cutting, the trimmings can be put in a vase, composted, or thrown away. Always wear work gloves and safety glasses when cutting. Branches ooze a milky sap when cut that can irritate skin. Frangipanis tend to produce more than one main stem, which will change the shape of your tree by making it more bushy.  Trim down any stems competing with the main trunk, or cut them off close to the beginning of the branch.  Shortening branches encourages new shoots to grow out of the branch, making your tree fuller. If you want a branch to grow new shoots, do not cut it closer than 6 inches to the main trunk. Exactly where you trim your frangipanis and how much depends on your vision for the tree. Air on the side of caution to avoid over-pruning. You can always make a second round of cuts. This will open up the remaining branches to sunlight, prevent the spread of disease, and allow the tree to become...


Prune your Japanese maple in winter or summer, if possible. Avoid low-energy times, like early spring and late fall. Make minimal cuts if your tree is ill. Avoid pruning plants younger than 15 years, if possible. Never remove more than 1/3 of the tree's foliage. Use pruning shears and loppers to shape your tree. Clean and sharpen your tools before pruning. Put on protective eyewear and gardening gloves to prevent injuries.

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Although you can prune your tree almost any time of the year, the best time to prune is in summer or winter. Summer is the easiest time to judge how much you need to thin the maple, and winter is best for seeing the branch structure.  Avoid pruning the tree in weather hotter than 80 °F (27 °C), especially if the tree is located in full sun. Removing too much foliage can make the tree vulnerable to sun scald.  Light pruning can be done at any point in the year except spring. The spring is when the maple has the most sap. Try pruning your maple about twice a year—once in winter and once in summer, preferably. Your maple is weakest when its leaves just emerge in the spring and as they drop in the fall. Try not to prune the tree during these times, as this is when it's most prone to damage.  Both low-energy times last about 2 weeks. Spring as a whole is the least-preferred time to prune your tree, but you can prune it safely so long as the leaves are finished growing in. If your tree has a disease or damage, wait for it to heal before pruning it extensively. Limit yourself to small cuts or deadwood removal, as even light pruning exerts some of your tree's energy.  Use your best judgment about your tree's health. If it seems severely ill or weak, nurture the plant to better health before pruning. If you’re pruning a diseased tree, sanitize your cutting tools so you don’t spread the contamination. Although you can prune young Japanese maples, cutting back branches can give them an awkward, skinny shape. Beyond cutting back dead or diseased branches, try not to prune your tree until it is at least 15 years old. Removing any more can significantly wound the tree and make it prone to disease. Limit yourself to around 1/3 of the foliage at a time. You can always remove more after the tree's had time to heal. Start by pruning less than you think you'll need to cut to prevent over pruning. Cut back more if you see the need. Household scissors tend to make blunt cuts that take longer to heal. Prune your tree with...


Prune your peach trees to help them grow. Know when to prune. Choose your pruning tools. Know how much to prune.

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Pruning may seem counterintuitive, but is actually incredibly beneficial in aiding new growth on peach trees.  Pruning your peach trees produces new growth, which in turn produces more fruit. Therefore, pruning yields a larger crop over time. Peach trees need to be open to sunlight, as shaded branches won’t produce as much fruit. Pruning them opens up all branches to the sun. Removing dead parts of the tree is necessary so that new branches can come in. If you intend on spraying your tree with pesticides, pruning allows for an equal coverage over the entire plant. The best time to prune your peach trees is early spring, after the last major cold snap of winter. Avoid pruning in very cold weather though, as this can reduce the trees’ cold-hardiness and total output of fruit.  The best month for pruning is typically February, but adjust this time based on your local weather. Prune older trees before younger ones to allow time for the new growth. Avoid pruning when the trees are blooming or shortly after blooming, because this can negatively affect the new growth. Prune your peach trees at planting or at the next spring (if done in the fall). It is better to prune a little late in the year than a little early. Use pruning shears for smaller, more manageable branches. Remove large limbs with loppers or a pruning saw. Wound dressing is available to put on branches post-pruning, but has shown to have little to no effect in preventing fungal growth. When you are cutting back branches, it is best to follow the “cat tossing” rule. All the branches on your peach tree should be wide enough apart that a cat could be tossed between each of them without ever hitting a branch.  A total height of 8–9 feet (2.4–2.7 m) is preferred when the tree is at its maturation. Prune the tree low to start, to encourage outward growth instead of upward. For big, full fruit, remove up to 90% of all developing fruit. A healthy tree will produce much more than it is capable of carrying, and must have most of it removed for the best output.


Prune your plants in the spring before they hit the growth period. Prune them again in the late summer after their growth period is over. Use a clean, sharp knife or garden shears when pruning your dracaena.

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From April to May, your dracaena plant comes out of rest mode and gets ready to go into the blooming season. Pruning your plants before they hit the growth period keeps them healthy. This also makes it easier to shape the plants into your ideal look. While you can prune your dracaena whenever you'd like, this helps encourage new, healthy growth. Remove leaves and/or stems again in late August after the growth period is over. From fall to winter, your plants are in rest mode, where they do not produce leaves and grow larger. To help the plant conserve energy, remove long leaves or stems before the rest period. This way, your plants can conserve nutrients and stay healthy during the colder months. Always use a sharp blade or pruning shears when pruning your plants. If you use a dull blade, this can hurt the plant and make it more challenging for it to heal. Before you make your cuts, wipe down your garden shears with rubbing alcohol or an all-purpose disinfectant. Using a dirty blade can spread infection and disease.  This keeps your plants healthy in between prunings. Alternatively, you can use a pair of gardening scissors.


Prune your tulips when the blooms are closed but the color is visible. Cut your tulips at least 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) down the stem at an angle. Avoid cutting the foliage as you trim your tulips. Put your tulips in a decorative vase full of water. Make a fresh cut at the base of the stem every 2-3 days. Replace the water in the vase daily.

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To maximize your bloom time, cut your tulips when they are in the advanced bud stage. This is when the flower hasn’t quite emerged, but the bud is close to blooming and the color of the flower is visible. The flower will fully bloom in 1-4 days. You’ll see a pink or purplish color from within the mainly green bud, for example. Using a sharp knife, garden shears, or scissors, make your cut on the stem at angle. Cutting the plant at an angle keeps it healthy and promotes regrowth. You can cut your tulips to any desired length. For a standard vase size, cut the stem to around 12–18 in (30–46 cm). Only cut the stem of your tulip plants, rather than trimming the leaves as well. Make your cut towards the base of the plant, but ensure there are no leaves in the way. This keeps your plant healthy. Leaving the foliage in place helps the plant build up energy for next year. Fill up a vase of your choosing about ⅔ of cool water, and then place your tulips inside. You can fill up your vase with many tulips, or you can also add other flowers or floral accents.  Avoid adding paperwhite narcissus or daffodils to your tulip vase. These flowers exude a gummy sap that can harm your tulips. Using floral preservative is not necessary for tulips. If you want to use one, simply shake it into the water before you place your tulips into the vase. Use a knife to cut the end of the plant at an angle, removing about 1⁄16–1⁄8 in (0.16–0.32 cm) of the stem. A knife is the preferred tool to make the cut, as scissors can crush the stem and make it more difficult for the plant to absorb water. To maintain the health of your tulips, dump out the water every day. Then, fill your vase up with cool water. With proper care, your tulips can last 7-14 days in a vase.  This helps the plants absorb water and extend their vase life. Tulips stay fresh the longest in cold water, rather than warm or hot.


Prune your ‘leggy’ swamp hibiscus. Remove withered flower heads. Cut the plant back at the end of the flowering season. Put a stake next to your plant if the hibiscus is leaning too much. Feed your plant during the growing season. Reduce the amount that you water your plant as the plant gets more established. Apply mulch to the area when the growing season is over. Divide your swamp hibiscus every decade or so.

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Swamp Hibiscus can grow a bit too leggy and look straggly. Pruning and pinching can promote bushier growth and flower production. Once the plant gets to be about two feet in height, pinch off the growing tips so that the plant height is cut in half to about one foot. When flowering starts, you should pinch off the dead flowers. This will be covered in the next step. Each flower of the swamp hibiscus will generally only last for one day. Try to remove dead flower heads every few days to help your plant produce the most flowers it possibly can. Doing this will keep seeds from forming, rather than flowers. If you want to collect hibiscus seeds later in the year, leave a small number of dead flower heads on the plant so that the seed pods can eventually form. They will need to mature and turn brown on the plant before the seeds can be harvested. Cutting the plant back will help the plant to continue flowering into the fall. Right at the end of winter, cut the whole plant right back to the ground. The remaining stalks will be woody. Next year’s growth will emerge on fresh shoots so it is fine to remove the old ones around December. Make sure to use a sharp blade to cut the plant back. Pruning shears work well. You can stake the plant if it is leaning too much. To do this, use a sturdy garden cane. Drive the stake deep into the soil and loosely tie the plant to it using string or garden ties. Don’t tie the plant too tightly against it and try to allow for some movement on a windy day. Swamp Hibiscus can also get support from a tree, post or fence. A swamp hibiscus generally does most of its growing in the spring, summer, and fall. You can use a general all-purpose garden fertilizer. Try to use a water-soluble fertilizer along with your regular watering schedule. More established plants won’t need as much watering as younger plants do. However, you should still check your plant regularly; if you notice that the soil is getting dry, water your plant right away. It is particularly important to keep an eye on the soil...


Pry the cover off the faucet tap with a flat-head screwdriver. Remove the screw located under the cap, then remove the handle. Loosen the hexagonal packing nut so you can pull out the tap stem.

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Compression faucets have screws in each tap (hot and cold) that are concealed beneath plastic or metal caps. These caps often have the H (hot) and C (cold) indicators marked on them. Wedge the blade of a flathead screwdriver beneath the cap and pop it off.  You’ll usually find a small indentation somewhere beneath the rim of the cap—if you do, wedge your screwdriver into this spot. If you’re only replacing the washer on 1 tap (e.g., cold), don’t bother popping the cap or working on the other tap (e.g., hot). But this might be a good time to replace the washers on both taps. Turn the screw counterclockwise until it comes free, then remove it. After this, you’ll be able to lift the tap handle and remove it from the tap stem.  Depending on the type of screw, you may need to use either your flathead or Phillips screwdriver. Don’t lose track of this screw or any of the other parts you remove—you’ll need them later! Adjust your crescent wrench so it fits snugly around the packing nut, then turn counterclockwise until it releases. At this point, you can lift the tap stem up and out of the sink.  In some cases, you may have a compression-style sink with separate faucets—that is, a hot faucet and cold faucet, each attached to their respective handles. If so, grip the faucet with one hand while you loosen the packing nut with the wrench in your other hand. Then pull the tap stem up and out of the faucet. If the packing nut won’t budge, try spraying it with a lubricant like WD-40, then wait 5-10 minutes and try again. If it still won’t move, call a plumber so you don’t cause damage to your sink trying to get it out.


Pry up the existing tiles. Scrub the floor with a stripper. Inspect and repair the subfloor.

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Place a chisel at the edge of the tile at an angle. Hit the back of the chisel with a hammer slowly and continue until the tile begins to break apart. Continue as you move across the entire floor. Throw the broken tile pieces into a wastebasket.  Another option is to simply hit each tile in the center with a sledgehammer. This will create more pieces, but can be a quick way to pull up a floor. Chisels and sledgehammers should work on most tile floor materials, including ceramic and most natural stones. Wearing a mask can protect you from any small dust particles kicked into the air as you pull up the tiles. It’s also a good idea to wear long pants and sleeves to protect your arms and legs from scrapes or cuts. Protect your knees when removing or laying tile by wearing pads or padded pants. Use a floor stripping solution purchased from your local hardware or home improvement store. Apply the stripper to the floor as directed. Wait until it takes full effect and then use an abrasive scouring pad to scrub loose any stuck on debris or glue. Keep going until the floor is fairly smooth to the touch. Once you’ve removed the tiles and any associated grime, take a close look at your floor with a work light. If the floor is wood, see if there are any areas that are rotten or warped. You’ll need to replace these spots with fresh wood. If the concrete subfloor is slightly cracked, sand it down with an abrasive pad. Replacing any damaged wood sections is a great way to prevent a future mold problem, especially in bathrooms or kitchens. Just make sure that you address the cause of any leaks as well.


Pucker your lips in an “O” shape. Draw back your tongue behind your teeth. Blow air out of your mouth. Maximize the sound of your whistle.

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Push out your lips into a kissing shape, creating a circular space between your lips. Form this shape in a way that feels natural. Wet your lips before making puckering your lips, as moisture will produce a louder whistle. This circular shape is where the air will flow through, ultimately making the whistling sound. Fold your tongue back so that it "floats" in your mouth just before the lower front teeth. Lightly touch your tongue behind your lower teeth, keeping your tongue relaxed and loose. Your tongue will help produce the loud whistling sound, directing air through the space between your lips. Your top molars will be touching your tongue as well. Inhale deeply through your nose and exhale evenly, forcing the air through the space between your lips. Experiment with different blowing intensities and consistently levels to find the whistle sound that fits your needs. When done correctly, a clear whistle should be heard. Start with a gentle blow of air until you can hear a low whistle. This will let you know that the technique is right. Once you have the technique down and are able to make a whistling sound, practice whistling loudly by exhaling harder and blowing more. Learn to blow out more air while maintaining proper technique and isolating the air so that it makes a loud, sharp sound. Proper technique and blowing harder will create the loud, intense whistling sound you are looking for.


Pucker your lips. Curl your tongue slightly. Begin blowing air over your tongue and through your lips. Experiment with the position of your tongue to produce other notes.

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Pretend like you're about to give a kiss, and make your lips into a puckered shape. The opening in your lips should be small and circular. Your breath flowing through this opening will produce a range of notes.   Another way to get your lips in the right position is to say the word "two." Your lips should not be resting against your teeth. Instead, they should be stretched slightly forward. If your lips are quite dry, lick them before you begin whistling. This may help improve the sound you produce. Curl the edges of your tongue slightly upward. As you begin whistling, you'll change the shape of your tongue to produce different notes. For beginners, rest your tongue against your bottom row of teeth. Eventually, you should learn to move the shape of your tongue to form different tones. Blow gently, slightly altering the shape of your lips and the curve of your tongue until you're able to produce a clear note. This may take a few minutes of practice, so don't give up too quickly. It might take a while.  Don't blow hard, just softly at first. You'll be able to whistle more loudly once you find the right form for your lips and tongue to take. Wet your lips again if they dry out while you're practicing. Pay attention to the shape of your mouth when you find a note. In what exact position are your lips and tongue? Once you find the note, keep practicing. Try blowing harder in order to sustain the note. Try pushing it slightly forward to produce higher notes, and lifting it from the bottom of your mouth for lower notes. Play around until you're able to whistle up and down the scale.  To produce lower tones, you'll notice your jaw is lower as well. Producing lower tones requires creating a bigger mouth area. You might even point your chin downward when whistling low notes. Your lips will be slightly tighter when you're producing higher notes. You might lift your head up to whistle a high note. If you're hissing instead of whistling, your tongue might be too close against the roof of your mouth.


Pull a "faux-hawk" out at the top.

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Section out the top of your hair, using the round brush to lift it up. Blow dry at the roots near the top of the head until they dry. This approach helps give your hair volume.


Pull and hold the release tab. Open up the ratchet and pull the strap loose. Pull and hold the release tab to close the ratchet again.

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This will override the ratcheting function and release the lock. The release tab should be easy to access and located on the top of the ratchet. If you can’t locate the release tab, check your operation instruction manual. Flip the ratchet completely open so it lays flat, then pull on the non-fixed side of the strap. This will release the strap from the ratchet’s hold and allow you to completely remove the strap. Locate the release tab once again and hold it down while you flip the ratchet closed. This will keep the ratchet in locked position until it is ready to be used to again.


Pull apart the first bobby pin so that it is a long, flat metal piece.

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Bend back the pin so that you have a long piece of metal wire. This will be your pick, and is inserted into the lock and used to move the pins out of the way. Strip off the rubber knobs on the ends, as they will only get in the way. You can do this with your teeth, or a pair of wire cutters if you have them.


Pull back your lips. Draw your tongue back. Blow across your tongue and over your bottom teeth and lip. Experiment to produce more sounds.

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Your upper lip should be tight against your upper teeth, which may be slightly exposed. Your lower lip should be tight against your lower teeth, which should be fully covered. You mouth should look like you are smiling with no teeth. This positioning will create a very loud, attention-grabbing whistle of the sort you can use to hail a cab when your hands are full. Use your fingers to set your lips into place until you get the positioning correct. Position it so that it is broad and flat, and hovering just behind your bottom teeth. There should still be a slight space between your tongue and bottom teeth, but don't let them touch. Direct your breath downwards towards your lower teeth. You should be able to feel the downward force of the air on your tongue. The air will flow at a sharp angle created by the top of your tongue and your upper teeth, downward across your lower teeth and lip. This produces a uniquely loud tone.  This whistle will require some practice and exercise. Your jaw, tongue and mouth will all be slightly strained when you whistle this way. Try to broaden and flatten the tip of your tongue until you produce a loud, clear tone. Remember that your tongue should float in your mouth more or less at the level of your bottom row of teeth. Changing the position of your tongue, cheek muscles, and jaw will produce a wide variety of whistle sounds.


Pull down any clothing to your ankles. Wipe the area clean with a moist towelette or damp towel. Unfold the liner from its package. Stick adhesive pads on the bottom of your underwear. Pull non-adhesive pads through your legs from front to back. Pull your clothing back up. Replace your liner in 3-4 hours or when it becomes soaked.

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Any pants, skirts, and underwear should be pulled all the way down to avoid staining it. If you are wearing a dress, try to hold the dress up out of the way, if possible. If needed, pin the dress up out of the way while you change. If your clothing is damp or soaked, replace it with a fresh set. You may want to consider carrying an extra set of clothes to be prepared in these situations. Clean around your genitals, inner thighs, buttocks, and any other areas that might have urine or feces on them. Pat the area dry afterwards with a clean and dry washcloth, paper towel, or toilet paper.  If you're in a public bathroom without towelettes, just use dry toilet paper. In the future, consider bringing a pack of moist towelettes with you. Avoid applying creams to this area when you're using liners. Creams might reduce the effectiveness of liners. Smooth out any creases and flatten out the pad with your fingers. This will help prevent discomfort when you wear the liner. Remove the paper covering the adhesive. Place the pad adhesive side down on the seat of your underpants. Press down on both ends of the pad to help it stick. Larger pads may not have an adhesive bottom. Once you insert the pad between your legs, smooth out the front and the back for full coverage. Pull up your underwear around the pad to keep it in place. Start by pulling your underwear up, then bring up the rest of your clothing. The pad should now rest snugly between your thighs. It should press against your genitals and buttocks for full coverage. Leaving on a wet liner for too long can cause rashes or soreness. Change your liner when it becomes noticeably wet. If it’s not wet, change it after 3-4 hours. Most people go through 4-6 pads a day.  Never reuse a wet pad. Always dispose of soiled pads. Some brands may have a “wetness indicator” that will fade or change color when it is time to change your pad. Read the package of your pads for more information. Remember that the best way to prevent skin irritation is to keep the skin clean and dry. This...


Pull down the notification bar. Tap Airplane mode.

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It's the bar with the clock and various icons at the top of the screen. A list of icons will appear. It's the airplane icon with a line through it. As long Airplane Mode is enabled, all calls are routed to your voicemail.  If you don't see Airplane mode, swipe down on the icons to expand more. Tap Airplane mode again to resume incoming calls.


Pull off older leaves regularly. Prune your succulents at the beginning of the growing season. Avoid watering your succulents 1 to 2 days after pruning to allow growth.

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You will typically find dead leaves on the lower parts of your succulents. Remove these leaves gently with your fingers to help your plant grow. If you leave them on the stem for too long, the soil below the plant will take longer to dry, which can lead to rot. Keeping your plant free from dead leaves can also promote new growth on the stem (you might even notice some when you pull off the dead leaves). Although succulents can be pruned at anytime, the beginning of the growing season is ideal due to the high level of growth. Near the end of the season, you probably won't see new growth as fast. Succulent growth periods vary, so be sure to double-check the growing season for your type.  In general, flowering varieties should be bloomed after they bloom, or during the winter when they are dormant. Take a look at dormancies here: https://www.succulentsandsunshine.com/succulent-dormancy-table/ You need to give the plants and roots time to adjust and heal following pruning. At least 1 day without watering is ideal. When you do water your plants, give them enough time dry afterwards.  With the right pruning and a lot of indirect sunlight, you will only need to prune your succulents every few months to a year. Overwatering succulents can lead to root rot.


Pull off the metal casing of your travel perfume bottle. Replace the casing of the travel bottle and the sprayer and cap of the main bottle.

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Most metal perfume travel bottles come with an outside casing to protect the inside unit. Hold the bottom of the casing between your index finger and thumb, and slide it off.  It is easier to fill up your travel bottle if you remove the outer casing. Once you remove the casing, you’ll see a small plastic tank to house the perfume. Once the travel bottle is full, take the bottle off of the main perfume bottle, and put the metal casing back in place. Then, place the sprayer and cap back onto the main perfume bottle. When you put the sprayer back on, it will spray out a bit of perfume. Point the bottle toward a sink so it doesn’t spray into your eyes.


Pull off the stem. Cut the tomato in half with a cleaver or serrated knife. Slice each half to create quarters. Cut the quarters in half again.

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It is not necessary to completely core the tomato if you are making wedges. If there is a green stem on your tomato, pull it off with your fingers. Slice straight down through the core (or where the stem used to be) with a sharp knife. Place the cut half of each side down against the cutting board. Make a cut down through the middle of each half. This will give you quarters. After you do this, you should have about eight tomato wedges. If you want smaller wedges, cut each wedge half yet again. You can keep doing this until the tomatoes are the right size.


Pull or crank the string to cock the bow. Load the crossbow with an arrow. Bring the bow to your shoulder. Aim your shot using the bow’s sight pin or scope. Fire your crossbow.

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If you’re using a manual crossbow, place your foot into the stirrup located at the front of the bow, then pull the string toward the back of the device until it cocks. Make sure to keep the string as even as possible. For crank crossbows, attach your crank to the device if necessary, then simply turn the crank until the bow cocks. After cocking the bow, place a crossbow bolt or arrow into the barrel of the device and line the cock vane up with the barrel channel. For safety, load the arrow from the top of the device, keeping your hand away from the main chamber and the front of the bow at all times. Similar to a rifle, bring the crossbow up to your dominant shoulder and either push it into the pocket of your shoulder or let it sit on top of your shoulder. Then, place your non-dominant hand below the crossbow to steady it, making sure to keep your fingers away from the main chamber. Do not freehand your crossbow as it can lead to inaccurate and dangerous shots. Freehanding is when someone holds their crossbow in 1 hand and attempts to shoot it. If your crossbow has a scope, peer through it and line the aiming reticles up with your target. Make sure to check your scope’s user manual so you know what each reticle means. If your device does not have a specialty scope, line up your shot using the crossbow’s peep sight or other alignment device. When you’re ready to shoot, hold your crossbow steady and double check your scope or sight. Then, pull the trigger like you would on a gun. When the arrow releases, you’ll hear a slight pop from the trigger.


Pull out all of the items you’ll be packing and sort through them. Organize the packing cubes by category. Pack specific outfits for each day or activity. Purchase cubes in different colors to color-code. Use the packing cubes as weekend bags.

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Laying everything out before you start packing will help you decide how many packing cubes you’ll need and prevent impulse packing. Group your items by general category, such as clothes, electronics, accessories, and toiletries. Once you’ve gathered everything you’ll need, you’re ready to start packing. This is the most straightforward packing strategy. Pack your things into the cubes based on type to keep everything organized and easy to find. For example, you would have a packing cube for shirts, as well as one for pants, one for swimsuits, and one for undergarments. This works well for long-term trips that requires you to mix and match many of the same pieces. If you like to plan out your outfits ahead of time or you’ve planned activities that require specific kinds of clothing, you can pack a cube for each day. This method is perfect if you’ll be on the go and won’t have much time to search through each cube for what you’ll need. For example, if you’re going swimming one day and hiking the next, you could pack one cube with your swimsuit, goggles, cover-up, flip-flops, and a change of clothes, and another cube with a T-shirt, shorts, socks, and a light jacket for hiking. If you need to pack for multiple people in one suitcase or want to locate cubes more easily, color-coding may be a good option. Purchase several cubes in each color and decide how to color-code the things you’re packing.  For example, you could designate a color for each person and pack their all of their things into cubes of the same color. This could be especially helpful for parents packing for their young children. You could also designate a color for different categories of clothing, such as dressy and casual, or clothes for warm weather and clothes for cool weather. Some packing cubes have handles, so they can be used separately as small bags. This works especially well on shorter trips that just require toiletries and a change of clothes, such as a weekend getaway or an overnight stay.


Pull out any large debris. Try a hose first. Scrape off the deposits.

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If you notice large debris in the filter, pull it out with your hand, though only do so if it's easily reachable. Anything small should be taken care of by the hose and the chemical solution used to clean the salt cell. You can start cleaning the salt cell with a standard garden hose. Point it in one end of the unit, letting the water go through it and flow out the other end. This process should help remove random bits that have gotten caught in there, as well as some of the mineral deposits. Don't get the end of the plug wet, as that part is not waterproof. Another option for working on the deposits is to use a plastic or wooden tool. Scrape at the deposits gently to try to remove them. Don't use metal, as that will damage the filters. You may be able to remove most of the mineral deposits this way.


Pull out large needles with a pair of tweezers. Remove small and stuck needles with a comb. Cut your hair if you can’t remove the needles.

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If large, clearly visible cactus spines get tangled up in your hair, grab them with a pair of tweezers and pull them out. These needles may be accompanied by small, hard to see cactus hairs, so put on gardening gloves to keep your hands safe. If any of the cactus spines pierced your scalp, ask a friend or family member to check for major signs of damage. If they notice any, visit a doctor immediately. To keep your hands safe, put on a pair of gardening gloves. Then, grab a fine-toothed comb and run it through the affected areas of your hair. This will help you remove thin, difficult to see cactus hairs as well as any stubborn hitchhikers that got tangled up in your locks. If you’re having a difficult time, soak your hair in warm water for about 10 minutes. This will loosen everything up and make the cactus needles easier to remove. If you can’t seem to get the cactus needles out of your hair, you may need to cut the affected areas off with scissors or shave them down using a razor. Though you might feel tempted to simply leave the needles in, doing so can lead to incredible amounts of discomfort and, if the needles reach your scalp, serious infections.


Pull out loose lint and other matter caught in the Velcro with your fingers. Pick out lint and debris that you can’t reach with your fingers with tweezers. Use a pin or needle if you don’t have tweezers to pull out matter. Scrape debris out of the Velcro with a fine-toothed comb instead of a needle. Brush the Velcro with a dry toothbrush after you pull out as much as you can.

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Pinch any large pieces of matter that are caught in the Velcro between your fingernails and pull them out. Think of how you would clean out hair from a hairbrush, and do the same for the lint, hair, and other things that are caught in the Velcro.  Velcro tabs consist of two parts called a hook and loop fastener system. The rougher side is called the hook, and the softer side is called the loop. The hook is generally the part that collects the debris because this is the part of the Velcro that grabs and sticks. It is possible that over time your Velcro will stop being sticky because the hooks get damaged. In this case, cleaning will only do so much and you may have to replace the Velcro if you cannot restore its grabbing power. Hold the Velcro steady with a hand. Use a pair of tweezers with your other hand  to pluck out pieces of matter that are caught further down in the hooks of the Velcro. Be careful not to grab and pull on the hooks with the tweezers. You might damage them and cause your Velcro to be less sticky. Slide the pointy end between the rows of hooks and underneath debris, then gently lift up to pull out the matter. Work in the same direction as the rows of hooks are facing on the Velcro. You can use any small, thin, and needle-like object for this method. Just make sure that it is sturdy enough to pull out debris that might be really stuck in the Velcro without bending. Hold the Velcro flat and securely in place. Slide a plastic, metal, or wooden comb along the rows of hooks to scrape out stubborn lint and other debris that you can’t pluck or lift out. Make sure the teeth of the comb are not so fine and delicate that they could break as you scrape out debris. Use an old toothbrush that you don’t need for your teeth anymore. Brush the Velcro in 1 direction parallel to the rows of hooks to get out any remaining pieces of lint and other matter.  A stiff-bristled toothbrush works best, or you can use another kind of stiff brush like a dish brush or a pet brush. Be careful not to scrub too hard or you...


Pull out sections or “baby hair. Wear scrunchies. Add some 90s signature plastic to your hair.

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” If you have medium to long hair and some face-framing locks, you can do the famous piecey 90s look. Another option is to showcase your “baby hair,” a popular look in the 90s. Hold your hair up loosely with one hand as you craft one of these looks with your other hand. Then finish the rest of your hair with a ponytail or updo.  For the loose strands look, pull a couple of locks from the front to hang down by your cheeks. For the “baby hair” look, use a toothbrush and some styling powder to pull down the fine hair around your hairline. You can use a gel to hold these baby hairs in place, if desired. Put your hair in a high or side ponytail with a single fabric scrunchie. Alternately, go for the three scrunchies look! Pull half of your hair up in a scrunchie. Add a second scrunchie halfway down your half ponytail. Then secure all of the hair hanging down with a third scrunchie in a low ponytail. You may want to wear hair elastics underneath the scrunchies, since fabric scrunchies have a tendency to slide down. Wear a jeweled comb headband…especially 90s if you wear it with spiral curls! Or, try pulling up small sections of your hair and securing them with mini butterfly clips.


Pull out the crown on the side of the Armitron watch until it clicks once to set the date. Turn the crown until the correct date appears in the window. Pull the crown until it clicks twice to adjust the day of the week and time. Rotate the crown until the day of the week is correct. Adjust the time by rotating the crown. Push the crown all the way in to set the time. Finished.

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The crown is the dial on either the left or right side of the watch face. Pinch the crown in between your fingers and pull it out until it clicks once. If you hear more than 1 click, push the crown back in and pull it out slowly. If your watch doesn't display the date, then the crown will only pull out once to set the time. You may skip this step. Rotate the crown clockwise or counterclockwise depending on your watch model. Keep turning it until the correct date is in the window on your watch face. If you only needed to change the date, push the crown all the way in to set it. Avoid adjusting the date on your watch between 11 PM and 5 AM since that's when it advances to the next day. If you have a watch that displays the day/date, pull the crown until it clicks twice. If your watch doesn't have that display, simply pull the crown until it doesn't go any further. Turn the crown clockwise or counterclockwise depending on the watch model you're using. Spin the hands for 2 full rotations around the watch face to move forward by 24 hours. Keep turning the crown until you reach the correct day of the week. Don't set the day of the week between 11 PM and 5 AM since this is when the watch will advance it. Once you have the day of the week and date set, turn the crown until the hands point at the correct time. Get as close as you can to the right time so your watch is accurate within a minute or two. The hands won't start moving on their own until you press the crown back in. Once you've made all of your adjustments, press the crown all the way in so it starts again. Check the watch periodically throughout the day to make sure it maintains the correct time. If the watch keeps falling behind, you may need to replace the battery.


Pull over if you’re driving to treat spills safely. Soak up excess liquid with a cloth. Brush off any solid material. Apply cool water to the stain. Add dish soap or baking soda if you can.

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Make sure you are pulled over to a safe side of the road, a parking lot, or your final destination before treating a spill that has occurred. Never try to deal with a stain while driving. Note that while it’s easiest to treat stains as soon as possible, by no means do you need to risk safety to address the spill while driving. It can wait till you reach your destination. Use a paper towel, a napkin, or any spare fabric or rag you have on hand in the car to clean the spill when it is safe to do so. Gently blot the coffee spill to absorb as much of the moisture from the car seat fabric as you can.  Don’t rub at the stain with your napkin or cloth, as this can spread the stain further. Simply press with the cloth into the seat and lift straight up to absorb the moisture. Repeat blotting with new napkins or cloths if you have them and the material becomes saturated. Do this until you have as much of the liquid absorbed as possible. Remove any coffee grounds that may have been present in your spilled coffee. It’s important to remove grounds so they don’t get stuck in crevices or cause further stains.  Be sure to wait till after you’ve blotted the liquid of the stain up to remove any solids. Then you can simply brush them away into your hand or a napkin to dispose. If coffee grounds have made their way into fabric creases already and are difficult to remove, do your best to blot and brush at them, then wait till you have access to a vacuum with a thin hose attachment to suck them up. Put cool water on the coffee spill as soon as you can after blotting it initially. Continue blotting with a clean cloth or paper towel to pull out more of the coffee from the fabric. Blot the water with a dry cloth or paper towel again to remove the moisture. If you have access to either dishwashing liquid or baking soda, use this to quickly treat a stain. Add a very small amount with cool water directly to the stain or to a cloth or napkin.  Blot gently with your napkin or rag until the baking soda makes a paste or the dish soap makes...


Pull over in a safe manner. Search for loose change in your car or wallet. Identify a live representative. Drive up to the toll booth as you normally would. Inform the toll booth operator of your situation. Stay calm and ignore pushy drivers behind you. Listen to the operator's instructions. Thank the operator and exit safely. Fill out required paperwork and pay the toll. Follow up with the tollway if you don’t receive a notice.

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If there's a generous shoulder on the side of the road, and you can reach this zone without impeding other drivers, pull over before entering the toll booth in order to search for change. If there's nowhere to pull over safely, skip this step.  You can look for change once you're stopped at the toll booth, or you can just move on with the procedure. Check your pockets, dashboard, and center console to make sure you don't have any change handy for the toll.  If you scrape together enough change, you won't have to go through the longer process of mailing in your payment later. Many toll booth zones have several booths, only one or a few of which are inhabited by a live representative.  Since you need to speak with someone about your situation, scan the available toll booths and select one where you can see an employee inside. Occasionally—often at night or in isolated areas—you will encounter a toll zone with no live officials at all.  In this case, drive through automated toll booth locations and allow the automated system to take a picture of your license plate. The citation/bill will be mailed to you. Rather than obsessing over your lack of money and worrying about what the operator will say, concentrate on steering safely and pulling up to the booth. Studies have shown that there are more accidents on toll roads, so it’s much more important that you pay attention and stay safe in this scenario than worrying about finding change and avoiding embarrassment. Keep an eye out for specific safety bulletins and speed limits posted at the toll zone.  Some places stipulate very low speed limits in these zones, while others are less strict, so you should always approach them on a case-by-case basis. Speak clearly and concisely so that neither the toll operator nor fellow drivers feel unduly delayed by your problem. Being a toll booth operator can be a difficult and monotonous job, so be sure to address the toll booth operator with a polite and apologetic tone. Once you’re dealing with the official toll booth...


Pull over under a freeway overpass for cover if you can. Drive into hail if it's already coming down to protect your side windows. Park on the opposite side of a building from where the wind is blowing.

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If you’re already driving and hail starts to come down, look for the closest cover for your car. Freeway overpasses and gas stations with canopies are great options for last-minute coverage if you're caught in your car when hail starts. Your windshield tends to be made of stronger glass than the windows on the side of your car. If you're driving and it begins to hail, drive into the hail, so it hits your windshield instead of your side windows. If a storm is blowing in from the east, parking your car on the west side of a large building can protect it from hail. Strong winds might blow the hail right past your car.


Pull strands of hair through the holes of your cap if you’re using one. Use the long end of a comb to separate sections of longer hair. Brush bleach onto your designated sections. Use strips of aluminum foil to keep longer strands of hair separate. Check your color every 5 minutes, leaving it in for 20 minutes at most. Rinse your hair with cool water. Apply colored dye over the dry highlighted strands, if desired.

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If you’re using a cap, brush your hair first and then put it on. Take a look at where the holes are; this is where your highlights will go. Use the hook that came with your kit to pull small sections of hair through the holes in the cap. You don't have to use every hole provided; just pull through as much hair as you want. If you’re not using a cap, first style your hair how you normally wear it. Determine which sections of hair you want to highlight; most people choose to highlight areas in the front and strands on the top layer of their hair since that is where sunlight would naturally lighten hair the most. Separate these sections using the end of a rat-tail comb and use small clips to section off these strands.  Make sure that you don't use tools or clips that are made of metal, as the metal could react with the bleach. If you want your highlights to appear in a ponytail, consider doing some underneath strands in addition to the top layer strands that you do. Use your applicator brush to apply bleach to the strands you have either pulled through the cap holes or clipped aside. Apply it from the middle of your strands to the ends first, since the ends of hair would naturally be lighter than the tops.  Use your regular dye painting brush for thicker highlights. To create thinner highlights, use your small spool brush only. Alternatively, you can get thinner highlights by dividing your hair into smaller sections, which would allow you to still use your regular dye brush. Make sure each strand gets an even coating of bleach for the best results. For long hair, place a strip of foil under the part of your hair you are highlighting while you paint bleach onto the strand of hair. Fold up the aluminum foil to keep that strand separate from your non-highlighted hair while the bleach works on your hair. Place the aluminum foil around each section of hair with highlighter on it as you go. Most kits will call for 20 minutes as the maximum time to leave the bleach on your hair. You can check your hair every 5 minutes...


Pull the car onto level, solid ground. Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench (tire iron) or impact wrench. Jack up the car. Remove the wheel. Submerge the tire in water. Watch for air bubbles.

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You do not want the car to roll or sink once you have it jacked up. It is important to remember to loosen, or break, the lug nuts before you jack up the vehicle.  This way the weight of the vehicle is still on the wheels and it prevents them from spinning dangerously while you turn the lugs. Once the lugs have been loosened, it will be necessary to jack the car up so that the wheels can be removed.  As mentioned above, this should be done on level concrete or some other hard, level surface.  Some important things to remember when jacking up the care are:  Your service manual will recommend jacking points The most common way to elevate the car is a floor jack, or trolley jack. If you are unsure how to use one visit Lift a Car Using a Trolley Jack. You should use jack stands to stabilize the car.  A good tutorial on jack stands can be found at Use Jack Stands. If you have access to a hydraulic lift it will save you time. At this point, the lugs may be loose enough to remove by hand.  If not, finish removing the lugs with the lug wrench or impact wrench.  Once the lugs are removed, pull the wheel off of the wheelbase. If you are uncomfortable removing a wheel, read about how to Remove Lug Nuts and Tires. You can use a small kiddie pool, bathtub, or any other container large enough to hold the tire. You should add water until the tire is completely submerged and then allow the water to settle. Once the water has settled you might notice air bubbles escaping from the tire. If so, you have found your leak.


Pull the crown out into the furthest position. Spin the crown to rotate the minute and hour hands. Push the crown back in place to start the watch again.

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The crown is the dial usually found on the right side of your watch. Pinch the dial and pull it out until it clicks twice. The hands on your clock should stop moving once the crown is pulled.  If your watch has a second hand, wait until it's pointing at the 12 to pull out the crown to make your time more exact. If your watch doesn't display the day or date, the crown will only click once when it's pulled out. Turn the crown clockwise to move the hands forward or counterclockwise to move them back. Try to get as close to the current time as you can so your watch is accurate.  Only the hour and minute hands will change. The second hand will stay in the same place. If your watch has a small dial for military time, the crown will also change it. Make sure it's also pointing at the correct time of day. When your watch is set to the correct time, carefully push the crown back into the watch. Be careful not to spin the crown as you push or else the time will be off. Check your watch periodically throughout the day to make sure it's still keeping time.


Pull the diaper stacks out of the pans. Wrap a ribbon around the middle of each cake to hide the string or rubber band. Stack the layers, starting with the largest layer on the bottom. Stick a dowel down the center of the cake.

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They will keep their shape because you tied them together, but you may still want to be careful. Set them down on a flat surface. Choose a ribbon whose color matches the cake's theme or the baby's gender. Cut a piece that is 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) longer than the circumference of your cake. Wrap the ribbon around the middle of the cake. Overlap the two ends by ½ inch (1.27 centimeters). Secure the two ends with a pin or a line of hot glue. Repeat for all of the stacks/layers. Don't pin the ribbon directly to the diapers. Also, don't get any hot glue on the diapers. Try to keep them as centered as possible. If your stacks have a hole in the middle, use that as a guideline. The dowel should fit right through the center hole of each stack. If not, push the dowel through each layer carefully, so that you don't pierces the diapers. Try to find a dowel that can reach through all the layers, but without sticking over the top of the cake. If you can't find a short enough dowel, don't worry. You can always cover the excess dowel up by tying soft toys around it.


Pull the drawer forward. Screw the brackets down using a mounting screw and your drill. Pull the drawer all the way forward. Screw the front brackets down with mounting screws and your power drill. Test the drawer again. Insert the drawer.

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Expose the brackets in the back. Make sure the brackets are flush with the bottom surface and facing down. Use one of the circular or oblong screw holes closest to the drawer slide. If possible, pull it all the way out to gain access to the front brackets. Also, choose the holes closest to the drawer slide. If it is in the right place, screw a mounting screw into the center of each bracket. If it is not, remove the screws with the drill and reposition the brackets and drawer. Begin loading it and testing it again. It will be ready to hold dishes or supplies.


Pull the espresso shots.

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Insert your filled portafilter into a clean grouphead on your espresso machine and immediately start pulling your shots. It will take a few seconds before the espresso begins dripping out of the machine. Let it keep extracting until it starts to turn blonde or yellow. A double shot of espresso should take 25 to 30 seconds to pull. Pull the shots into a tiny metal pitcher or you can pull them directly into a small demitasse cup that you want to serve the caramel macchiato in.


Pull the futon frame away from the wall or other furniture. Grab the bottom of the frame. Unfold a hidden third deck of a trifold futon, if necessary. Adjust the top section of a trifold futon so it lays flat. Lift the frame of a bifold futon up so that it unlocks. Walk backwards while pulling the bifold frame with you. Adjust the legs of the futon, if necessary. Center the mattress on the frame.

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Since the mattress will be spread out, it’s important to move the frame at least 8 inches (20 cm) away from the wall or any other obstacles that might be in the way to prevent damage. Make sure you have plenty of room to walk around the futon so you can easily reach the frame. This should be the part where your legs would be if you were sitting on the futon. You can grab it right in the middle, or you can start on one side of the frame. Some trifold futons will have a hidden third part that needs to be pulled out before the futon can lay flat. Find this third section under the main seat and pull it out, adjusting the legs as necessary so that it’s stable on the ground.  If your trifold futon already has the third section (also called the ottoman feature) out, adjust the legs so that it’s level with the middle section. You may have to release a locking mechanism in order for the bottom section to move. This is the section where your back rests when the futon is upright. As you’re pulling the ottoman section flat, you should begin to push down on the top section so that it lays flat as well. Adjust the top section’s legs so that the futon is completely horizontal and stable. If you’re having trouble adjusting or unlocking your trifold futon, go online and look up instructions for the specific brand—not all trifold futons will work exactly the same. If you grabbed the middle of the frame, simply lift it up 1 or 2 inches (2.5 or 5.1 cm) until you hear it unlock from the base. You can also start at one side and lift an end up slightly to unlock that end before unlocking the opposite side.  If you’re unlocking each end separately, don’t lift each one up too high before both are unlocked. Some futons will have a locking mechanism that you’ll need to unlock before the futon can be lifted. This will be visible on the inside of the frame, near the legs. Once the frame is unlocked from the base, lift it up and move backwards so that the frame expands to its full size. Start lowering the futon to the ground carefully and...


Pull the hair around your hairline back to keep it out of the way. Twist the hair around your hairline into a headband. Use a couple of locs as a faux headband. Create a braided headband using the hair from in front of your ear. Pull back some locs for a romantic look.

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Gather the faux locs from around your hairline, including your temples and in front of your ears. Pull the locs back behind your head, and secure them with a hair tie.  Plan on going 1 to 2 locs deep all along your front hairline. This style is similar to a half-up, half-down ponytail, except that it uses less hair. If you don't want to pull your faux locs straight back, create a middle or side part prior to securing the locs with a hair tie. Create a deep side part. Gather the hair on the thicker side of the part (about 2 locs deep), twist it upwards into a rope, then pull it behind your head. Repeat the process for the thinner side of the part as well. Gather the two ropes behind your head and secure them with a hair tie.  The headband should start in front of each ear. For a slightly different headband look, twist together pairs of locs that make up each rope. Gather 2 locs from behind each ear. Cross them under your hair, right at your nape. Pull the locs up the sides of your head and tie them together at the top. Wrap the tail ends around the faux headband to secure them.  Position the headband at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) behind your front hairline. You can pull the headband as far back as you’d like. Gather 3 locs from in front of your right ear. Braid them together, then pull the braid across the top of your head, like a headband. Secure the braid behind your left ear with a bobby pin. You can also do this headband starting on the left side of your head instead. Create a center part. Gather 3 locs from each side of the part, right at your hairline. Pull the strands around your head towards the back, then tie them together. Create a boho-chic look by braiding the strands on each side first. You’ll have something that looks like a braided crown.


Pull the person aside for a private conversation. Describe the behavior you have been seeing and how it makes you feel. Ask for an explanation.  State your boundaries

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If you make the decision to approach the person and have a conversation, do it privately. It may only make matters worse and prevent you from having a productive conversation if others are around. You might say, “Hey, Bob, can I steal you away to talk for a moment?” Now that you’re face to face with the person, communicate what you have noticed about their behaviors. Then, describe how their behavior makes you feel.  State what you have clearly seen, like “I’ve noticed each time I greet you this week, you haven’t said anything back.” Then, let them know how it affected you by adding something like, “Being ignored really hurt my feelings.” Once you’ve described the person’s behavior towards you, you might ask the person to explain why they have been acting that way.  You might ask by saying something like, “Can you explain why you’ve been treating me this way?” Note that they may deny the behavior or refuse to explain. Some may even try to blame you for their actions. . You can’t really control how others treat you, but you can make sure they know how you expect to be treated. You can do that by establishing healthy boundaries. If someone treated you poorly, you can easily identify which boundary has been crossed. Now, you just have to let them know not to do it again.  For instance, using the above example, you might say, “If you keep ignoring my greetings, I will stop saying hello.” Another example might involve reacting to someone who insulted you. Your boundary might sound like, “Please do not call me that name anymore. If you do, I will tell the teacher.”


Pull the plant from the pot to inspect the soil and roots. Re-pot an over-watered plant and adjust your watering schedule. Saturate the soil when watering an under-watered plant. Increase the surrounding humidity, especially for tropical plants.

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Brown leaf tips are most often a watering issue, but both over- and under-watering can cause them. Hold the plant over the sink, grab the stem and jiggle it a bit, and pull the plant and root ball from the pot. This will make it easier to diagnose under- or over-watering.  If the soil crumbles away instead of holding together in a clump, you’re under-watering. If water drips from the soil, or if the roots look moldy at the ends, you’re over-watering. If you find water-logged soil and roots when you pull the plant from its pot, you can try leaving it out of the pot for several hours, then putting it back once things dry out a bit. However, it’s often better to scrape some of the water-logged soil away from the root ball, then re-pot the plant along with some fresh potting soil.  If the tips of the roots look rotted or dead, you can snip them off with scissors. Instead of giving the plant less water at a time on the same schedule, water the plant fully but less frequently. For instance, if you’re currently saturating the soil with water every 2 days, don’t switch to just moistening the soil every two days. Instead, saturate the soil every 4 days. After you've identified under-watering as the problem, put the plant back in its pot and give it a thorough watering. Every time you water the plant, you want to see water running out of the drain holes in the bottom of the pot. If this isn’t happening, you’re not giving the plant enough water.  Place a drain pan under the pot to catch the excess water, or water the plant over the sink. Keep watering the plant on the same schedule (for instance, every other day), but give it more water each time. Pull it from the pot again in a week (on a non-watering day) and check if the soil is dry. If so, start watering the plant more frequently (e.g., daily) as well as more fully. In addition to frequent watering, tropical plants need humidity from the surrounding air. Placing the pot in a shallow bowl filled with rocks and water can help increase the humidity around the plant. If...


Pull the starter rope, if your model has one. Plug in the snowblower’s power cord  if applicable. Press the start button, if your model has an electric start. Turn the choke switch off when you're ready to use the snowblower.

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Grasp the starter rope by its handle. Pull slowly until you feel it “catch” some resistance. Then quickly and smoothly pull upward to start the engine. If your model has an electric starter, take the three-pronged cord and plug the other end into an outlet. The outlet must be the same voltage as your snow blower. Read your model’s instruction manual if you are unsure of the voltage level. Push the button in short cycles of only five seconds until the engine fires and stays running. Overtaxing the starter can damage it. Disconnect from the power source once your snowblower is running. Let your snowblower run for a few minutes to warm up. Then, turn the choke to the “off” or “run” setting. Your snowblower is now ready to use.


Pull the top of the loop knot to loosen it. Puncture the center of the roe bag with the hook. Secure the loop around the roe bag. Pull on the free end of the line to tighten the loop around the bag.

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Pull up on the top portion of the knot so that you create a loop that’s slightly larger than the size of your roe bag. You’ll be tightening the line around the roe bag to secure it in place. If you tied your egg loop knot correctly, the top loop of the knot should be easy to pull. Place the pointed end of the hook into the center of the roe bag. Puncture the bag all the way through so that your hook goes through both sides of the mesh. You should now be able to slide your roe bag up and down your hook. Slide the roe bag up the hook, as close to the eye as you can. Then, take the loop on the top of your egg loop knot, and wrap it around the center of the roe bag. Using an egg loop knot will prevent your roe bag from becoming detached and floating away as you fish. Tighten the loop enough to keep the roe bag in place. Now, when you fish, your roe bag will be attached to both your hook and your line. Don’t pull on the free end of the line too hard, or you will sever your roe bag in half.


Pull the trigger and move the gun over a piece of paper to practice. Hold the caulking gun at 45 degrees to the crack.

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Hold the gun at a 45-degree angle with the nozzle facing downwards. Then, over a piece of paper, press the trigger at the back of the gun while moving the caulking gun steadily in one direction. The caulk should come out in a steady stream.  If you move the caulking gun too fast, the caulk will be too thin and uneven. If you move the caulking gun too slow, the caulk will be clumpy and unworkable. Find a balance between the two. Don't worry if you pressed the trigger and no caulk came out. Let the pressure off the trigger then start again. Hold the caulking gun with two hands. One hand should be by the trigger. Use your other hand to hold the end of the caulking tube, assisting your aim. Tilt the entire gun 45 degrees. The caulk should start to flow towards the nozzle. Although the trigger will push some of the caulk out of the tube, by holding the gun at 45 degrees, you are using gravity to help with the process.


Pull the waistband snug from the back and pin it in place. Mark the inside of the jeans along the pinned seam and take out the pins. Cut out the waistline stitching between your markings, plus 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) on each side. Remove the belt loop(s). Take out the stitching from the top edge of the waistband and from the center of the seat. Fold the inner layer of the waistband and sew across it with a straight stitch. Repeat the alteration with the outer waistband. Sew the seat of the jeans back together with a single straight stitch. Sew topstitching with a single straight stitch on the outside of your jeans. Sew the belt loop back on with single straight stitch.

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Put your jeans on and pull the back of the waistband with one hand to adjust it to the right size. Pinch the extra fabric of the waistband with your free hand and secure it with a large safety pin. Pinch just below the safety pin to pull out the excess fabric and secure it with a straight pin. Continue pinching and pinning down the back seam until there is no more excess to pin and your jeans fit well in the waist and hips.  Be careful not to catch your underwear (or your skin!) when you are placing the pins. Try to pin as far down as you can along the seat of the jeans. The further you go down, the less noticeable the transition from the original thread and your new thread will be. Take the jeans off carefully. Place them face up on a flat surface and pull the front waistband down so you can see the inside of the back waistband where you’ve placed the pins. Mark along the center of the pinned seam with fabric chalk, making sure that it leaves a line on both sides of the seam. Then, take out the pins. If you don’t have fabric chalk handy, you can also use a highlighter. Use a seam ripper to take out the top and bottom row of stitches along the waistband. Remove all the stitching of the two rows on the waistband between the chalk marks, plus 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) on each side. Leave the stitching along the top edge of waistband and the seat of the jeans for now. To make sure you don’t rip out too many stitches, try cutting the first and last stitch you would like to take out. Then, pull at the loose threads to take out all the stitching in between. Take off any belt loops between your two chalk lines. To do this, carefully clip away the thread attaching the belt loop(s) to the waistband. If there are any leftover threads from the belt loop after you remove it, leave them in place. Sewing over these when you reattach it later will help disguise the alteration. Carefully cut the stitching on the top edge of the waistband along the same length where you removed the two rows of waistband stitching. Separate the two...


Pull together as much money as you can. Take money out of a retirement account. Find other partners.

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In order to buy a hotel, you'll need to put together as much money as you can for a down payment. In addition, you'll need money to close the sale and run the hotel until it begins returning profits to you. How much you'll need for each of these expenses will depend on the value of the property and your business model. Start by compiling money from your savings and investment accounts. Don't worry if you don't have a lot of money saved in those accounts; there are plenty of other sources of financing you can use.  You can also take out a home equity line of credit (HELOC), take out a second mortgage, use a personal credit card, or ask for loans from friends and family to get more startup money.  For example, imagine that you have saved up $47,500 in various accounts. In addition, you are able to take out a second mortgage for $100,000. Finally, you secure a $20,000 loan from a friend. This would give you $167,500 total to invest in your hotel. You may also be able to get investment money out of your retirement account. However, this will incur penalties depending on your age and the type of account. For example, any money you take out of an IRA will be taxed as income (at your regular income tax rate) and, if you are under 59.5 years of age, will also suffer a 10 percent penalty. You should also take into consideration that if your hotel fails, you will have little or no money left in your retirement account to use later in life. Imagine that you are 35 years and decide to take some money out an IRA to add to your hotel investment amount. You decide to take out $50,000. This withdrawal would be penalized for 10 percent of its value, or $5,000, and taxed at your income tax rate. Assuming an income tax rate of 25 percent, you would be left with $32,500 ($50,000*(1-(0.10 + 0.25)))after the penalty and taxes. This would give you a total investable amount of $200,000 ($167,500 from earlier plus the $32,500 from the IRA). You will be able to increase your investment amount if you can find other partners to go in...


Pull up the heaviest growth by hand. Cover the bare patch with 2-3 layers of cardboard. Shovel mulch on top of the cardboard. Allow up to 2-6 months for the cover to finish off the roots.

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Before you can choke out the creeping grass, you’ll need to remove as much as possible from the affected area. Grab a handful of leaves near the soil and pull them up firmly until you dislodge the underlying root system. Clearing the ground will give you a head start over new growth, making your cover more effective.  Use a leaf bag or wheelbarrow to dispose of the stripped Bermuda grass to prevent spreading small pieces to other parts of your lawn. You should throw it in the trash rather than the compost in order to prevent it from spreading. If you don't want to hand pull the grass, you could try mowing the lawn very short, which will help. The cardboard acts as an insulator to keep the root system cut off from sunlight, moisture, and nutrients. For the kind of growth that pops up on most lawns, 2 stacked sheets ought to be enough. If you have a serious overgrowth problem, it may be necessary to use 3 layers.  Most home improvement centers sell parcels of cut cardboard for a few dollars apiece. For a more economical alternative, look for boxes that have been thrown out or recycled. Overlap the edges of each section to keep new grass from popping up between the cardboard. If you don't have cardboard, you could use several layers of wet newspaper instead. You might also have success using landscaping fabric in place of cardboard to achieve the same effect in areas with sparse ground cover. Pile the mulch about 5-6” thick. That way, you’ll still be able to plant smaller flowers and shrubs without having to risk exposing the root system of the Bermuda grass. Once the mulch is in place, tamp it down lightly with the flat edge of a shovel or trowel to compact it. Any conventional gardening mulch will do, or go with an all-organic mixture of arborist’s waste and compost. In the meantime, avoid disturbing either the mulch or the underlying cardboard as much as possible. After an extended time without water, sunlight, and nutrients, the Bermuda grass will no longer be able to survive.  Light cover will typically be...


Pull up to the stop line in a car. Position a bike or motorcycle at the correct spot. Initiate a crosswalk button as a pedestrian.

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Drive your car up the stop bar or line, which is a line perpendicular to your car painted just in front of the crosswalk markings at most intersections.  If you see grooves in the road that indicate the presence of inductive loops, make sure your car is positioned directly over those loops so it gets detected. If you see no signs of inductive loops, or you see a camera control system, just make sure that you are positioned in the middle of the street lane, not further forward than the stop line and not too far back from it. It's especially important to position your car not too far forward or backward when in a left turning lane, as these often will have their own detector that signals a protected left turn signal. Note that those with bicycles, scooters, and motorcycles sometimes have difficulty triggering traffic light detectors due to the smaller profile of a two-wheel vehicle. Be extra careful to position yourself in line with a given detector.  On a street with markings that indicate a dipole (one loop), position both bike wheels directly over either the right or left side of the loop. For a quadripole (two loops), position the wheels over the middle line where the two loops connect. For a diagonal quadripole, position yourself anywhere over the markings.  Some intersections may have markings directly on the roadway that indicate a line on which cyclists should place the wheels of their bikes. Often there will be a nearby sign with the same symbol as on the pavement, indicating “To request green, wait on [symbol].”  If there is a camera installed for detection, simply make sure your bike or motorcycle is positioned in the center of the lane, or lean it toward the middle of the lane from one side. You may even want to face diagonally toward the camera, so as to make your profile larger and more easily detected. Take extra care as a pedestrian to initiate a traffic signal change using the available crosswalk buttons, as you cannot signal the same detectors that vehicles do.  Push the appropriate button to...


Pull weeds and measure the length and width of the beach area. Purchase sand and gravel. Add a plastic liner to deter plant growth. Spread the gravel on the liner. Finish your backyard beach with a layer of sand.

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Get your garden tools and remove all plants from the area you’ll be putting in your beach. Once the area is clear, use your tape measure to determine its length and width.  It may be easiest to use a shovel to remove the top layer of plants or till the greenery under the surface of the soil.  If you plan on hanging a traditional hammock, this is the perfect time to dig some postholes and sink a sturdy wooden 4x4 board. Gravel will form the base of your beach area and can be shaped to add a dune-like contour. The amount you’ll need will depend on the amount of contour you desire. Where sand’s concerned, you’ll need enough to cover the entire area at least 6 in (15.2 cm) deep.  Beach or mortar sand work best and are widely available. Decomposed granite can also work as your base and is easy to mold into dunes. If you’re unsure how much sand you’ll need, input the length, width, and depth of your planned beach area into an online sand calculator. This number is usually in cubic yards or meters. If you don’t put down a liner, over time plants will invade your beach area, even if you were really careful when weeding. You can pull these up as they push through the sand, but a plastic liner will make plant invasions all but nonexistent. If you want a level beach area, rake an even layer of gravel onto the plastic liner. Heap up small hills so that when it’s covered with sand it looks like sand dunes. When you’ve got the contour just right, spray it liberally with water and let it sit overnight. Hosing down the gravel base will harden it, making it more stable. To prevent too much sand from falling into gaps in the gravel, use a little potting soil to fill gaps and holes after the gravel dries. Spread sand evenly over the entire area, though you may want to add some extra to high traffic areas or play areas. This will prevent the gravel from being exposed and make your backyard beach more realistic.  If you haven’t plugged holes with potting soil, at first it may seem like sand is simply disappearing into the gravel....


Pull your eyelid out. Press down on your eyelid. Pull your eyelid up. Repeat this process with your other eyelid. Return your eyelids to normal.

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Using your forefinger and thumb, grab your upper eyelid and gently pull straight outwards (not up or down) the outer ridge of skin on your eyelid, not just your eyelash, as this may lead to you pulling out some eyelashes. Using the forefinger of your other hand, gently press down on the center of your eyelid as you continue to hold it out. This requires some good coordination, so be careful not to poke your eye. It may take a couple tries to get it right -- but keep at it! With your eyelid clasped between your forefinger and thumb, quickly withdraw the forefinger you used to press down with, and lift up with your forefinger and thumb. Make sure you take the forefinger out just a millisecond after you pull the eyelid up, otherwise it will not be flipped. This, too, may take a couple of attempts to get the timing right. Follow the same steps you used for your other eyelid. If you're not ambidextrous, this may feel very awkward, but after a few tries you should begin to get the hang of it. After you are satisfied with your friends' freaked-out reactions, you'll probably want your eyelids back in normal, functioning order. Simply look up really hard with your eyes or blink really hard with your eyelids to return your eyelids to normal.


Pull your hair away from your face. Get your materials together. Draw your face. Determine your face dimensions.

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To truly see the shape of your face, you need to pull your hair back into a ponytail or bun. You should also pin back your bangs or any other loose hair from around your face. Having your face clean and uncovered will allow you to see all the factors that determine your face shape. You might also want to wear a top that does not cover your neck and chin, so try a scoop neck or v-neck shirt. You can also go topless. You need to get a mirror and a writing utensil, such as an eyebrow pencil, lip or eyeliner pencil, or dry erase marker. You need to make sure the mirror is large enough that you can see your whole face. It also needs to be hung on a wall or able to sit up on its own so you can use both your hands. Make sure the room you're in is well lit and that your face is in full light. You will need to be able to see each edge of your face and you don't want to misread the shape of your face due to shadows. Stand in front of the mirror with your face centered in the mirror's surface. Mark the edges of your face. You can either draw the whole area of your face now or you can place dots around you face, noting the top and edges of your forehead, the edges of your cheekbones, points on the edges of your jawline, and the bottom of your chin. Once you've placed the dots, move to the side and connect the dots, making a facsimile of your face shape.  You can also do this in the bathroom mirror after you get out of the shower. All you have to do is draw the outline of your face in the steam. Make sure to take note of the shape before the condensation fades away.  If you don't have a mirror, take a picture of yourself head on with a relaxed face and draw around the outside of your face. You will get the same result. Once you've drawn your face, it's time to analyze the dimensions of your face. Look at the width of your forehead, cheekbones, and jawline as well as the length from your forehead to your chin. Compare each side, judging which area is most prominent, which area is smallest, and how they relate to one...


Pull your hair away from your face. Remove makeup from your brows. Mix the bleaching powder and developer. Test the bleach creme on your jawline. Apply the mixture. Keep an eye on the clock. Wipe away the creme from your eyebrows.

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You can use a headband or a towel to keep your hair in place, or you can put longer hair into a tight ponytail. This will keep you from accidentally getting bleach on other hair.  Even if you have very short hair, pulling it back from your face is a good idea, as stray hairs are likely to distract you. Use bobby pins, headbands, or hair clips to pull short hair and bangs out of the way. Eyebrow bleaching is very detailed work, requiring your full attention. Removing any makeup, dirt or oil from your skin before bleaching will help your bleaching be successful. To clean the tender area around your eyes, apply a make-up remover and wipe the makeup off. If you've just had a shower, wait before bleaching your brows. Warm water and steam can make your skin more susceptible to irritation from bleaching. If your hair bleach is one of several popular commercial products, it will contain bleaching powder, liquid developer/peroxide, and an instruction manual for use. You should follow the instructions on how to do the mixing process, which will result in a creme that you can put on your eyebrows.  Mix your powder and developer in a glass bowl, or another non-reactive container. Stir it with a cotton swab until it's a smooth consistency. Doing a patch test to see how your skin will interact with the bleach will keep you from accidentally injuring yourself. Make sure you only use bleach creme intended for facial bleaching, because the skin on your face is more delicate than other areas.  If you have very sensitive skin, use a milder bleach creme that's labeled for sensitive skin. Testing the bleach creme on other body hair may also show the speed at which your hair will lighten, allowing for a more predictable lightening experience when you bleach your brows. Usually, commercial bleaching creme comes with a small applicator. You can also use a cotton swab if you've lost your applicator, or your bleaching creme doesn't come with one. You'll need to be gentle, but accurate, as you apply the creme to the eyebrow hairs you...