Remove the scales with your fingers.  Wash the baby's head Use oil and jelly.

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The baby's scalp won't be harmed if you use your hands to take off the "cap." It's the simplest, and one of the most effective, ways to get rid of the scales and dry patches that occur when a baby has cradle cap.  Rub your fingers over the scaly patches, then gently peel and scrape away the scaly dead skin and discard it. If you don't want to use your fingers to pick off the scales, put on a pair of thin latex gloves (as long as your baby isn't allergic to latex). You could also cover your hands with plastic wrap to prevent directly touching the scales. Keep in mind that cradle cap is not contagious, and picking off the scales will make your baby more comfortable. Don't use tweezers or another sharp tool to remove the scales, since you may accidentally poke the baby's head and cause an injury. every day. Use warm water to bath the baby's head, and gently massage his or her scalp with your fingers. The water will help loosen the cradle cap scales, when you can then peel or scrape away.  Using a mild baby shampoo can help loosen the scales, so consider adding one to your washing routine. However, you may find that shampoo dries the baby's scalp out further. Use a soft-bristled brush to help loosen the scales while the baby's head is still wet. Sometimes cradle cap scales need a little outside help before you can peel them off. Spread baby oil or petroleum jelly on the dry patches, then wait 15 minutes to let the scales soften before removing them.  Olive oil and vegetable oil also work well for removing the scales. Use shampoo and warm water to wash away the oil when you're finished. Leaving traces of oil can actually make the problem worse by causing more scales to form.


Remove the screen door if you have one. Remove the plate or track in front of the glass door. Uninstall the headstop with a screwdriver. Raise the rollers by turning the adjustment screw counterclockwise. Lift the door up and off of the track. Place the door on a large table.

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First, lift the rollers off the track by sliding a flat head screwdriver or putty knife under the roller and pushing up. Grasp both sides of the frame and lift the door up off of its tracks. Place the screen doors safely off to the side until you are ready to put them back. When handling large and heavy doors, it is always a good idea to have someone help you. The other person can hold the doors steady while you lift the rollers off the track. For most glass doors, there will be a strip of metal in front of the glass door to keep it secure. Some plates may be screwed in; you will need to remove the screws before taking the plate out. Others can simply be lifted up.  If you cannot find this plate, your door may not have one. You can use a drill instead of a screwdriver if you have one. To remove screws, set the drill to reverse. The headstop is a strip of metal next to the top of the door that keeps it standing upright. Screws on either end of the headstop keep it in place. Turn the screws counterclockwise until you can pull them from the headstop. Once all of the screws are removed, the headstop should come down.  Some doors may have brackets instead of a strip at the top of the door. In this case, remove the brackets by undoing the screws and taking the bracket off the wall. Have another person hold onto the door once you remove the headstop. Without the headstop, the door may fall over and break. In most doors, there will be 2 screws on the bottom next to the rollers. The bottom screw is typically the adjustment screw. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to turn the screw counterclockwise as far as it will go. This will raise the rollers up into the door, making it easier to remove the door from the track.  If you only see 1 screw, it will be the adjustment screw. The adjustment screw is usually the same color as the rollers whereas other screws may be a different color. Hold each side of the door before tilting the top part of the door towards you. Once the top is out of the frame, lift the door up and out of...


Remove the screen from the window, keeping it inside its frame. Take out the window spline. Cut your new screen out of mesh material. Align the mesh screen to the frame. Place a brick or heavy object in the center of the screen. Roll the rest of the window spline back into the screen.

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Usually, window screens pop out easily, but they can be held in by small clips. Check for clips before you try to remove the screen and, if present, unfasten each one. When you've removed the screen, lay it down on a flat surface. A window spline is a rubber or plastic strip that holds the screen in the frame. When replacing your window screen, you will need to remove and replace the spline as well. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the spline out and, when it's fully removed, throw it away. Replacement splines can be purchased at most hardware or home repair stores. Purchase a roll of mesh material from a nearby hardware store, then cut it into a rectangle 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) larger than your screen. If the new screen is too large, you can always trim it with a utility knife.  If you do not need to completely replace your window screen, skip this step. Aluminum mesh is popular because it is sturdier than other screen meshes. Keep the mesh material straight and taut to ensure an even fit. Use a utility knife to cut the replacement screen to size if it is too large. The material should slightly overlap on each side but not exceed 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm).  If you do not need to replace the mesh screen, keep your screen in its frame and continue to the next step. Mesh material will usually curve to one side. Place the mesh in with the curved side down so it is easier to work with. A brick or other heavy object will help give your screen an even amount of slack and tension. Before you place the brick on the screen, place the spline loosely around the corners of your frame and roll the 2 adjacent sides back in. When you place the heavy object on the screen, you'll be able to prevent sagging. When you've rolled in all 4 sides, remove the brick or heavy object from the screen. Put the screen back into the window and tighten any existing clips. If your window screen still seems loose, repeat the process again with a lighter or smaller object.


Remove the screen when you see a little tree popping up. Expect fruit in 3-4 years. Harvest your apricots.

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You don’t want your new tree to be stifled by its protective layer, so remove the screen when they're just starting to break through the top layer of soil. You may want to build a wire or wooden fence around your tree to help protect it from hungry animals as it grows. Apricot blossoms are very susceptible to frost damage and may need to be protected in a garage or greenhouse during the winter. Apricots are usually ready for harvesting from midsummer through  early autumn. You’ll know when they’re ready if they’re soft, fuzzy, and fully orange.


Remove the screw keeping the rollers in place with a Phillips head screwdriver. Pull the rollers from the door to identify their type. Screw the new rollers into the bottom of the door. Put the door back onto its track. Turn the adjustment screw clockwise to lower the rollers.

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In most doors, this will be the screw above the adjustment screw. You do not need to remove the adjustment screw. Turn the screw counterclockwise as far as you can to release the rollers from the door. Some newer doors may not have a screw above the adjustment screw. Instead, the screws may be located on the bottom of the door directly next to the wheels. The only way to tell what kind of rollers you need is to look at what kind of rollers are currently in the door. Rollers vary in shape, size, and brand. You can take the rollers to a hardware store or a glass shop to find a perfect match.  If you can’t get to the hardware store right away, you may need to put the door back on its track until you are ready. It may be a good idea to take a picture of the rollers in case you need to replace the rollers again at a later date. Most doors will have one set of rollers on each end. It is a good idea to replace both rollers at the same time. Insert the rollers into the door. The side with the holes or countersink screws should line up with the holes on the door. Insert the screws and turn them clockwise until they are tight. Make sure that the wheels are facing down towards the bottom of the door.  Since the design of doors and rollers can vary, use the older rollers as a guide for how to install the new rollers. Make sure to repeat this process for the rollers on the other end of the door. Set the door with the rollers against the track. Tighten any screws that you loosened or removed when taking the door out. Return the metal strip, headstop, and the screen door if necessary. Anything that you removed or loosened when removing the door must be returned and reinstalled properly when putting the door back. Try moving the door back and forth on the track to make sure that the rollers are working. For most doors, turning the screws counterclockwise will lift the rollers and turning the screws clockwise will lower them.  If the door is not rolling smoothly, the rollers may be too high. If the door rolls too quickly, the...


Remove the screw or nut and rubber washer from the bottom of the tap stem. Take the old rubber washer to a hardware store to find a match. Place the new washer and old screw/nut onto the bottom of the tap stem. Clean off any limescale on the tap stem and tap seat with steel wool. Reinstall the tap stem, packing nut, handle, screw, and cap. Turn on the water supply and test for leaks.

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Many tap stems have a small nut or screw that holds the rubber washer in place at the bottom. If you find this, use a screwdriver or adjustable pliers to remove the screw or nut. Then, pluck off the rubber washer with needle-nose pliers. Tap washers vary in size and thickness based on the faucet make and model. Your best bet is to remove the old washer and use it to find a precise match. You’ll find rubber washers of practically every size at your local hardware store or home improvement center. Alternatively, you can cheaply buy a collection of various rubber tap washers beforehand, and use the closest match during your repairs. But it’s best to use a perfect match whenever possible. Use your fingers or the needle-nose pliers to slide and press the new washer into place. Then, if your tap stem uses a screw or nut, use the screwdriver or pliers to tighten the screw/nut back in place. Depending on the tap stem model, the washer might press into an indentation in the bottom or slide over the end of the stem and into a channel. Your best bet is to place the new washer in the same spot where you found the old one. If you see any white limescale or other debris on the surface of the tap stem, rub it away with a piece of steel wool before reinstalling it. Likewise, use your finger to stick the steel wool into the opening of the tap seat (where the tap stem inserts into the sink or faucet) and twist it a few times to release any limescale. If you loosen any limescale or debris inside the tap seat, try to wipe it out with a paper towel wrapped around your finger. Reassembling the tap is the same as disassembling it, only in reverse. You’ll need to:  Insert the tap stem into the tap seat; Tighten the packing nut with a crescent wrench until it’s snug; Place the handle over the tap stem; Tighten the screw that holds the handle in place with your screwdriver; Press the cap over the screw until it snaps into place. Twist the hot and cold shutoff valves counterclockwise to turn the water supply back on, then open both...


Remove the screws in the bracket that secure the license plate. Check for a license plate frame. Align the license plate with the holes in the bracket. Drive the screws to secure the license plate.

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Locate screws at the corners of the license plate bracket on your front bumper. Turn them counterclockwise with a screwdriver to remove them, then keep them in a safe place so they don’t get lost. If the bracket held an old license plate, it’ll come off when you remove the screws.  If your vehicle is new, the license plate bracket screws might be in the glove compartment. If you have no screws, you can pick up some license plate screws at a nearby hardware or automotive store. Some license plate brackets have a screw-mounted frame that fits over the license plate. If your bracket has a frame, just remember to align it over your license plate and insert screws through both during installation. You’ll know you have a license plate frame if a separate rectangular piece comes off when you remove the bracket’s screws. Locate the holes in the corners of the license plate and the bracket. Place the license plate into the bracket so the holes are aligned. If your bracket includes a frame that fits over the license plate, line its holes up with those in the plate and bracket. Insert your screws through the holes in the bracket and license plate (and frame, if applicable). Tighten the screws by turning them clockwise with your screwdriver to complete installation.


Remove the screws in the locknut if your strainer has them. Use a wide-mouthed wrench to loosen a traditional locknut strainer. Loosen and remove the nut at the bottom of a bell washer strainer. Wiggle the sink strainer loose and push it up and out of the sink.

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If you see threads around the widest section of the strainer (where it connects to the sink), you have some version of locknut strainer. If you also see 3 or 4 screwheads against the locknut, you need to remove these screws before loosening and removing the locknut and strainer. A simple screwdriver (typically Phillips head) will do.  Once you remove the screws, you should be able to loosen this type of locknut by hand. Turn it counterclockwise until it comes off the threads and slides down off the strainer. If the entire strainer is spinning when you try to loosen the locknut, use pliers to pinch (or pliers handles and a screwdriver to hold) the strainer still from topside. Use this method with any type of spinning sink strainer, locknut or otherwise.  If the screws are hard to turn, then spray some WD40 onto them and wait 5 minutes. This should help to loosen them. If you locknut isn’t held tight by screws, you’ll need a wrench to loosen it so that you can remove the strainer. Use a large pipe wrench or — even better — a specialized strainer locknut wrench, which you can buy at any hardware store. Turn the locknut counterclockwise with the wrench until it spins freely, then turn it by hand until it unthreads and falls off the sink strainer. If the locknut is completely rusted in place and simply will not come off, you can use the cutting wheel attachment on a rotary multi-tool to slice through the locknut, then (if needed) a chisel and mallet to split it apart. But you may also want to consider calling a plumber at this point. Take the same wrench you used to loosen the nut that held the strainer to the drain pipe, and loosen the same-sized nut that pushes up against the bell-shaped housing. Work the nut off the threads and out of the way, and then pull the bell housing down and off of the strainer. If the bell housing refuses to pull free easily, wedge a flat head screwdriver into the gasket sandwiched between the bell and the underside of the sink. Pry the bell housing free and pop it off. A moderate...


Remove the shoelaces of the Converses completely. Sketch a design on the canvas with a pencil. Pick a durable thread. Use a chenille needle. Use a thimble and needle nose pliers to protect your fingertips.

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This will open the shoes up more and give the tongue more flexibility. It will allow you more space to maneuver inside the shoes as you stitch your designs. The rubber toe of your Converses is not suitable for embroidery, but the canvas is ideal. When you have a design in mind, use a pencil to sketch an outline onto the canvas.  If you decide you don’t like your idea and want to start over, you can even wash your Converses on low in your washing machine to wash the pencil out. Embroidering lends itself to lettering. If you’re stuck for ideas, you could embroider your birthday or initials. A strong, vibrant thread, such as DMC’s Pearl Cotton, will make your design stand out and last for a long time. When selecting thread, consider that thicker gauge thread will be more difficult to push through the canvas than a thinner thread. Chenille needles have very sharp tips and a larger eye. The sharp tip will be better able to penetrate the stiff canvas of your Converses more easily, and the larger eye will make threading thicker thread easier. The needles of most home sewing machines will be too fine to successfully sew through the side of your Converses. To keep from wrecking your sewing machine, embroider an item like this by hand. It’s wise to use a thimble to protect the sensitive pads of your fingers whenever you are sewing. Needle nose pliers will help you pull the chenille needle through the stiff canvas of your shoes more easily, too.  Take your time while stitching. It is easy to injure yourself when sewing thick or difficult materials. When you’re ready to wrap up your stitching, perform an anchor stitch—a stitch that runs parallel to the stitching surface back through the last several stitches—to secure your work.


Remove the skin from the flesh of an animal. Pull the flesh off the hide. Salt the skin. Soak the skin in water. Remove the hair from the skin. Give the skin a final lime bath.

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Skin the animal by setting it on it's back, on an incline when possible. Use a good hunting knife for skinning, and a gut hook knife to gut the animal.  Begin by removing the sex organs. Slice the animal from the tail to the throat. Peel back the skin with your fingers or a knife. Split the sternum, spread the rib cage and remove the organs. Flip the animal over and finish removing the hide. Manufacturers use a mechanical fleshing machine to remove the flesh from the inside of the skin. Running the inside of the skin over the steel roller of the machine will eliminate any excess flesh. If you don't have access to a fleshing machine, you can purchase fleshing tools from a hunting store or taxidermy supply store.  Drape the flesh over a large horizontal beam. Stand at the end of the beam and pin a small section of the hide to the end of the beam using your body weight. If you don't have a beam to use or don't want to construct one, you can simply spread the hide out on a tarp on the ground.  Place a large basin or bucket below your work area to catch the excess tissue and fats as they are scraped away. Scrap away all the subcutaneous materials with your fleshing tools. Remove the veins and membrane. Rotate the hide and work until the surface is complete. Do not leave the hide if you need to take a break as the material can dry out. After the hide has been fleshed, the end result should be a white, smooth surface. Apply a generous layer of salt to the skin, or create a brine and soak the skin. This will act as a preservative to keep the hide from decomposing. Fresh skins need to be salted or frozen within the first few hours, otherwise they may be destroyed. Fold the hide in half so the flesh sides are together. Leave for 24 hours. Scrape away any remaining salt and repeat. To create a brine, add one pound (.45kg) of salt per one gallon (3.8L) of water to create a solution.  Let the hide soak for 24 hours. Soaking will help remove any dirt or other materials from the skin. Fill a large 35 gallon (132L) or so...


Remove the skins from your peppers by 'blistering' them. Place the blistered peppers in a pan. Gently pull the blistered skin off of the peppers.

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If you have already cut your peppers, make sure to place them skin side down during whatever heating method you choose to use.  Preheat your oven or broiler to 400º or 450ºF (205º to 232ºC). Place the peppers on a cookie sheet and stick them in the oven or broiler for 6 to 8 minutes. Using tongs, turn the peppers often so that they blister evenly on all sides.  Place peppers on a wire mesh for the stovetop method. Hold the wire mesh over a heated electric or gas burner. Turn the peppers frequently with a pair of tongs. Make sure each side is heated equally.  Heat an outdoor grill. Place the peppers 5 to 6 inches above glowing coals. Rotate the peppers using tongs. Place a damp cloth over them. Doing this allows the peppers to cool quickly and makes the skins easier to peel. Occasionally rinse the peppers with water.Use a knife to scrape off any skin that does not peel easily.


Remove the snap-on holster. Find an opening in the silicone slipcover. Wedge a thin tool under the cover. Peel the silicone off carefully. Find the tension clips along the edge of the case. Release one of the tension clips. Continue releasing tension clips until the two halves separate.

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If the device is in a belt clip or other snap-on attachment, pop it off using the large tab on the side. The process for removing a Defender Otterbox case will be the same for virtually all devices. The only differences will be the number and the style of tension clips. The most difficult part of removing the Defender case is peeling off the flexible silicone layer. Your best bet is to start at the camera opening, the charging port, or a corner of the screen. If you can't fit your finger into one of these openings, use an old credit card or other hard, flexible piece of plastic. Stick it underneath the slipcover, and wiggle it back and forth until you can insert your finger into the gap. Once you've wedged a corner open, you should be able to go around the phone pulling off the silicone. Be careful when removing the silicone from your open ports to avoid tearing any port covers. New Defender cases have clips along the side that you can pop open with your fingers. The larger the device, the more clips you'll find along the edges. There is typically a clip on each corner and clips in the middle for larger devices. If you're using an iPad and don't have tabs or slots, click here. Use your fingers to pop one of the tension clips open along the side of the case. If you can't get your finger under the clip, you may need to use a small flat-head screwdriver or a stiff credit card to get some leverage. The tension clips release from the bottom.  If using a tool to pry the clips open, lift towards the front of the case. Don't try to pull down, or you may break the plastic. Some clips may be easier to remove than others, especially when all clips are closed. If you're having trouble with one, move onto a different clip. The front and back of the case should come apart completely. Don't force the two apart, or you may damage the tension clips. You may not be able to release all of the clips for some devices while the device is inside. Instead, release them along the top, bottom, and one side, then open the case like a hinge.


Remove the spark plug. Check the gas. Try the choke.

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To check the ignition spark, find the plug on the engine. Make sure the kill switch near the moped’s handlebars is off before you do this. Try to start the moped. If the engine works, you should see a spark inside of it. Your finger would pop off if you held it over the hole.  If the spark plug looks dirty, try a new one. If the engine won’t start at all, you may need a new battery. Open the fuel tank. If the gas has been sitting in there for at least a month, water will gather at the bottom of the tank. Unscrew the drain screw on the carburetor or undo the hose so that the water comes out. Catch any gas in a container. Use compressed air to blow debris out of the carburetor. If you’re sure there’s a spark, gas infusion, and air moving through the moped, try pressing the choke. It’s the small black rod sticking out of the carburetor. Press it and try to start the engine. If it sounds like it is trying to start, open the throttle, which may be operated by turning the right handlebar towards you. Try starting the engine a few times while doing this.


Remove the standing water and the P-trap if you're unclogging a sink. Clear clogs from the P-trap if your drain has one. Insert the snake into whatever type of drain you're auguring. Feed the snake into the drain until it stops. Turn the crank on the snake counterclockwise to pull the snake out of the drain. Repeat this process until you don't feel a clog anymore.

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Wear rubber gloves for this process. If you have standing water in the sink, start by scooping it out with a cup and bucket. To find the P-trap, look beneath your sink for a curved pipe attached to the drain. Place a bucket or pan under P-trap to catch any water that comes out. To remove the trap, use a pair of slip-joint pliers to take off the slip nuts connecting the pipes. If your pipes are plastic, be careful not to snap them. If the pipes are metal, the slip nuts may be difficult to remove. Remove the slip nut between the P-trap and the trap arm, the pipe that leads into the wall first. Then grab the P-trap and pull it away from the other pipes. If your P-trap is clogged, pull the clog out with your gloved fingers. Look in the trap arm, too, and see if it has a clog. Remove that clog as well if it has one. Rinse the P-trap out with water and reattach it.  If the P-trap wasn't the source of the clog, leave it off to access the drain. Now is a good time to replace any of these joints or pipes if they look thin or broken. You'll save yourself trouble in the future. Turn the set screw to the left at the tip of the snake so you can feed out the end of it. Grab the end of the snake and pull it out about 0.5 feet (15 cm). Push the end of the snake into the drain.  With a sink, you can run the snake into the drain stub-out, which is an open pipe on the back wall under the sink. In a tub, take off the overflow plate, which is the hole between the drain and the faucet. Feed the snake into that hole.  In a shower, remove any drain caps and run it down the drain. Use the hand crank at the back of the snake to feed the snake out. Eventually, you'll feel it stop, which means you've hit the clog. Crank the snake until you feel the tip of the snake just push through the obstruction. The tension in the cable will drop when this happens. The snake will go around corners as needed. Once you've pushed through the clog, the end of the snake will attach itself to it. As you pull the snake out, you'll also pull out the clog....


Remove the steak from the refrigerator about 20 minutes before you plan to cook it. Pat the meat dry with paper towels if it is very juicy. Sprinkle a mix of salt and pepper onto the surface of the steak right before you cook it. Find out how thick the steak is.

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Never defrost a steak in the microwave. It should be slowly defrosted in a refrigerator overnight. This will help the spices cling to the surface evenly. Salt will create a crust, but putting it on too early will make the juice run out of it. Use up to 1 tsp. (6g) of salt per side for a large steak.  Ultimately, the amount of salt and pepper you use will be to taste. Use what you feel is a generous amount. Freshly cracked pepper and flaked sea salt will produce the best flavor. This will help in determining cooking time later on. A one-inch (2.5-cm) cut will need less time than a 2-inch (5-cm) cut and so on. Steaks that tend to be best at medium rare doneness are usually on the thicker side.


Remove the steaks from the oven and let them cool for 5-7 minutes.

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After baking to your desired level of doneness, take the baking sheet out of the oven and let it cool on your stove top. After cooling for about 5-7 minutes, transfer the steaks to a plate and serve when ready.


Remove the stem and bottom. Remove the skin. Cut the fruit into slices. Remove the cores from the slices.

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Lay the pineapple on its side. Hold it in place with one hand and grab the base of the leafy stem with your other hand. Gently twist and pull the leaves to remove the stem. Using a sharp knife, carefully cut off the top and bottom half-inch (1.3 cm) of the pineapple. To determine if a pineapple is ready for eating, hold the fruit steady, pinch a center leaf from the stem with two fingers, and gently pull the leaf. If it comes out easily, the pineapple is ripe. Stand the pineapple on its bottom base. Use a sharp knife to slice off thin lengthwise strips of skin from the pineapple. The slices should be about a quarter-inch (0.6 cm) deep to remove as much of the skin and divots as possible. Go around the entire fruit until all the skin has been peeled off. Once the skin is gone, go around the fruit and carefully cut out any brown divots that are still left in the fruit. Lay the peeled pineapple on its side. Hold the fruit steady with one hand and use the other to cut. Cut the pineapple into slices or discs that are between a half-inch and an inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm) thick. You may need to cut the slices thinner or thicker than this for different applications, so read and follow any recipes that you may be using before slicing the fruit. Lay each pineapple slice flat on a cutting board. Use a 1-inch (2.5-cm) round cookie cutter to punch the center core from each slice. The core is the darker yellow flesh that runs through the middle of the fruit. You can also use a knife to cut the core from each slice if you don’t have a cookie cutter.


Remove the strings. Remove the metal components. Understand the parts.

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Before getting into modifying the appearance, you’ll need to remove the strings. Unwind the strings if they’re relatively new. If they’re old and the string slack has already been removed, then snap them off with wire cutters. Aged strings won’t add any benefits when you relic your guitar. You should be able to remove all the metal parts using a screwdriver. Aging the metal pieces of the guitar isn’t necessary, but it’ll add to the overall look in the end. Be careful when removing the pickguard from your guitar if you have one. Most guitars are wired so that the pickguard is attached to the input jack. If it is attached, you'll need to clip the connection using wire cutters. Only do this if you are prepared to solder or pay someone to solder the connection back. Be methodical when removing gear from your guitar. Do not just put everything in a large pile to be dug through later. It might help to take photos as you remove components as a reminder of where everything goes. Organize your parts into piles like:  Metals from the neck in one spot. The pickguard and other metals in one pile. Then the parts of the bridge in another. Keep track of which screws go with what component.


Remove the stump using a power stump grinder (optional). Drill 1 inch (2.5 cm) holes in the top of the stump. Pour chemical stump removal granules into the holes. Monitor your stump over the next 4 to 6 weeks. Break the remaining rotten wood with an axe. Spray shoots with broadleaf herbicide.

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Using a power stump grinder is the most efficient way to remove your stump. Position the grinder near your stump, turn it on, and begin pushing it forward into the stump to grind away at its surface. Move it around the circumference of the stump to make sure you also grind the aerial roots. Stump grinders can cost thousands of dollars and there are other ways to remove tree stumps for a fraction of a cost. The cost-effective alternative is using chemical stump remover—a process that is outlined in the steps below. Using a 1 inch (2.5 cm) spade bit for your drill, drill 1 inch (2.5 cm) holes around the stump's perimeter. Be sure to go approximately 12 inches (30 cm) deep and 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10.2 cm) back from the stump's edge. Purchase a stump removal product from your local home hardware store. Most of these products are powdered forms of potassium nitrate, which accelerates rotting. After filling the holes with your granules, add water into the mix. Your stump will begin to get spongy after 4 to 6 weeks. If you have any children or pets, keep them away from the stump during this period. After the stump remover has accelerated the rotting process, you can break up the remaining wood with your axe. Even after you've removed the stump, you might notice new shoot growth. Apply broadleaf herbicide to any shoots that you notice growing back. Broadleaf herbicides are best when applied in the fall, with October being the optimal month. Broadleaf weeds are more susceptible to fall herbicide application because plants are more likely to move the herbicides down into their root and stem tissues.


Remove the tails if using whole lobsters. Thaw and rinse frozen lobster tails. Make two lengthwise cuts through the top of the tail shells. Rinse the tails again. Remove the digestive tract. Loosen the meat and lift it up.

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If working with whole fresh lobsters, you will need to briefly parboil the lobsters in salted water before removing the tails.  Salt a large stockpot of water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Add the lobsters and cook for 2 minutes. Use a sharp knife to cut off the tails. Return the bodies and claws to the boiling water for another 10 to 13 minutes to finish cooking them. If working with frozen lobster tails, thaw them overnight in your refrigerator and rinse them well in cool running water. Rinse the lobster tails under running water and pat dry with clean paper towels. Use a sharp knife or sharp kitchen scissors to cut out a section of the lobster shell.  Begin cutting along the length of the tail just right of center. Cut from the open end all the way down to the base of the tail. Move the knife of scissors roughly 1 inch (2.5 cm) to the left and make an identical cut on the left side. Make a final horizontal cut at the base of the tail, connecting the two lengthwise cuts. As you cut, make sure to keep the blade close to the top underside of the shell. You can cut into the meat slightly, but you do not want to cut through it completely, nor do you want to slice into the bottom of the shell. Remove the cut piece by peeling it away. Lightly rinse the cut lobster tails under cool, running water to remove any bits of lobster shell that may have stuck to the meat. Pat dry with clean paper towels when done. The digestive tract is the dark line that runs from one end of the tail to the other, across the entire length.  To remove the digestive tract, slide the tip of your blade directly under one end of the dark line, cutting it free while keeping it attached to the rest of the tract. Grip the digestive tract between your index finger and thumb and gently peel it up and back. Trim it off at the end with your blade. Note that this is only optional. You can leave the digestive tract in place, if desired, and it should not affect the taste of the lobster tail. Removing it is mostly done for aesthetic purposes....


Remove the tick from its host, if necessary. Confirm that it's a tick. Examine the tick's "scutum," or shield.

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The best way to remove the tick is to use pointy-edged tweezers, angling the points to ensure that the head of the tick is removed along with the body. Old-fashioned methods, such as soaking it with petroleum jelly or painted the affected site with nail polish, should be avoided as they traumatize the tick, which may then regurgitate its stomach contents (including bacteria) into the dog's bloodstream.  Did you remove the whole tick? If you've jerked or twisted the tick while removing it, the mouth-parts may break off and remain in the skin. You may be able to remove the mouth-parts separately using clean tweezers. You should still be able to identify the tick without the mouth-parts. Put the tick in a vial or lidded jar, or place it on a piece of white paper and use a piece of clear tape to cover it. How many legs does it have? Ticks, like other arachnids, will have eight legs in the nymph and adult stage, but will have only six legs in the larval stage.  If you've put the tick in a jar or vial, watch it move. If it is a tick, it will crawl, but will not be able to fly or jump. Ticks have flattened, tear-shaped bodies at all stages of growth. When engorged, the tick's body will be rounded and its color will be lighter. Deer ticks are smaller than their counterparts, the dog and lone star ticks. Deer tick nymphs are typically the size of a poppy seed, 1 to 2 mm (.039 to .078 inches) in diameter, while adults range from 2 to 3.5 mm (.078 to .137 inches) and are roughly the size of a sesame seed. An engorged tick may be about 10 mm long.  Hard ticks, such as the deer tick, have a scutum or shield covering the body. Soft ticks do not have this feature. A magnifying glass can be helpful, as ticks in pre-adult stages are quite small.  The scutum is the hard section behind the tick's head. A deer tick will have a solid-color scutum, while the shield of other ticks is patterned.  The scutum can also provide information about the gender of the tick.The scutum of the adult male will cover most of the body, while that...


Remove the tire from the wheel. Clean the wheel.

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Discard the tire or take it to a recycler. Consider first removing any debris with a wet, soapy cloth. Follow up with stainless steel polish. Don't forget to buff away the polish and shine.


Remove the toilet tank lid. Take note of the water level inside the tank. Turn off the water supply to the toilet. Examine the float and fill valve. Examine the toilet tank's float height. Use a screwdriver to raise or lower the float height. Flush the toilet to test the water level.

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Lift the lid off of the tank and set it aside on a flat, stable surface. You’ll now have access to the flushing mechanisms inside the tank. Be careful not to drop the lid or set it somewhere from which it might fall. Toilet tank lids are made of ceramic and can break fairly easily. The water in the tank should rest 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) below the fill valve and overflow tube (the large open pipe near the center of the tank). If it seems higher or lower than this level, your water level may be off-balance. Your toilet may also have a line in its tank, either printed on or etched in porcelain, that shows you where the water level should be. Locate the external water valve on the wall behind and beneath the toilet. Rotate the oblong knob clockwise as far as it will go, then flush the toilet. After it flushes, the tank will not refill itself. This will allow you to work inside the tank unobstructed.  Keep turning the knob until you hear the water stop running. Do not attempt to adjust or repair any of the mechanisms inside the toilet tank without emptying it first. Look over the flushing mechanisms to see what kind of condition they’re in. If you notice any obvious damage or defects, you might need to call a professional to have the part repaired. Check the toilet tank’s float, a plastic ball attached to a long arm at the top of the fill valve. The height of the float determines how much water remains in the tank after it refills. It should be at the water level if it is not broken. If the float appears too high or low, adjust the float height and when you refill the tank, check how it changes the water level.  If it is above or below the water level, this may be the source of your high/low water level. Give the float a shake. If you can hear water inside of it, you should have a plumber replace it. Make sure the float is properly connected to the fill valve. Directly on top of the fill valve should be a single screw. Turn this screw clockwise or counterclockwise 1 full rotation. Clockwise will raise the water...


Remove the toothpicks to the prepared surface. Test the sticks' dryness after a few hours. Store the toothpicks for later use. Save the cinnamon oil for later use.

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Make sure nothing on the surface will absorb the oil soaked into the toothpicks.   Lay the toothpicks out flat and spread out on the surface. They will dry more quickly and evenly this way. Make sure you have re-sealed the jar with the cinnamon oil after the toothpicks are removed. This will preserve the oil. They will be ready to use once they are dry. If they are still damp after a lengthy wait, you may attempt to dry them manually.  If drying is taking too long, you may want to risk using napkins to dab the toothpicks dry with gentle pat-downs. Don't risk breaking the toothpicks or rubbing off the oils prematurely. Also consider moving the toothpicks to another location in case the environment itself is perhaps too humid for drying. There are a number of containers you could use, but you may want something fairly portable.   If your toothpicks originally came in a seal-able plastic container, consider using that again to transport them with you. A small plastic jar or box is usually best and easily found at most stores. Cinnamon has many uses as a spice and health remedy, plus you may want to make more soaks for toothpicks.  Keep the oil in the airtight-sealed jar and place the jar in a cool, dark place. Make sure wherever you place the jar is away from heat sources and direct sunlight. Spice shelf life can vary quite a bit, from months to years, so check with your seller. Cinnamon oil has numerous other uses including killing bacteria (particularly in food), it's a preservative, it controls the spread of mosquitoes, it can be used as a massage oil, it can assist with digestive problems, and its often used with warm compresses.


Remove the top of the Keurig water reservoir. Pull out the filter unit. Open the filter holder and discard the used filter.

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In most Keurig models, the water reservoir is located on the left-hand side of the machine. Fully removing the reservoir's top will give you access to the water filter. You can change the filter if there is water in the reservoir, or if the reservoir is empty. The handle portion of the upper filter holder will be sticking up in the water reservoir. Grasp the handle firmly, and pull it out of the reservoir.  The bottom of the filter-holder unit will be locked into plastic grooves on the bottom of the water reservoir. You may need to rock the filter-holder unit back in place or give it a sharp tug to remove it. If you have a Classic series Keurig, your filter will be black with a circular timer on the end. If you have a K200 Plus, the filter will be clear and shorter, while the K300 and higher models have filters that are tall, thin, and clear. Use your thumb and index finger to pinch in the tabs at the bottom of the filter unit. Pull down to release the lower filter holder, then pull out the old filter. The old filter can be thrown away in your kitchen trash can.


Remove the top stops on both sides. Pull off 2 or 3 teeth on both sides. Take off the zipper pull. Close the zipper teeth with your fingers. Replace the zipper pull. Replace the top stops.

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The top stops are metal pieces at the top of the zipper that prevent the zipper from coming completely off of the track. Use pliers to remove the top stops. Pry the top stops apart to loosen them and then pull them off the zipper fabric. This will allow you to fix your zipper and get it back on the track on both sides. Next, use the pliers to pull off 2 or 3 teeth from each side of the top of the zipper. Pry the teeth apart to loosen them and then pull them away from the zipper fabric. Removing these zipper teeth will make it easier to put the zipper back on the track.  Make sure to pull off the same amount of teeth on each side of the zipper. Discard these zipper teeth. You will not need them. After you have removed the zipper teeth, you will be able to slide the zipper pull completely off of the track. Remove the zipper pull and set it aside. Next, begin to reconnect the zipper teeth with your fingers. Press the teeth together as if you are zipping the zipper up from the bottom. Make sure that all of the teeth are interlocked with the teeth across from them. Connect the teeth all the way to the top of the zipper. When all the teeth are interlocked, slide the zipper pull back onto the zipper at the top. As you do this, some of the teeth may come apart. Reconnect them if they do. Then, begin sliding the zipper pull down the length of the zipper. The teeth should open as you do this and this means that the zipper is back on the track. Take the zipper top stops that you removed earlier and use your pliers to reconnect them to the zipper fabric. Replace each of the zipper stops right above the zipper teeth by squeezing them closed around the zipper fabric. There should be no gaps between the zipper teeth and top stops.


Remove the tracker from the band. Dampen a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol. Wipe off the tracker. Dry it with a microfiber cloth.

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The tracker on some versions, including the Blaze, can be pushed out gently from behind. Others, including the Flex 2, require you to undo the band clasp first. Consult your owner’s manual for instructions on how to remove your version’s tracker. Cotton swabs and rubbing alcohol can be found at general stores and drugstores. Water should not be used, since it can get inside the tracker and damage it. Also, abrasive scrubbers should not be used. Apply the rubbing alcohol with the cotton swab. Don’t use a lot at any time. While rubbing alcohol does dry quickly, too much of it can still damage the tracker. Remove leftover moisture with a soft cloth. Make sure all moisture is removed before returning the tracker to the band. The “pebble” tracker in the Flex 2 can be dried completely with a paper towel. Avoid using paper towels or glass cleaners on tracker screens.


Remove the trucks of your board.

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Take a look at your skateboard to determine what type of hardware you will need to remove the trucks. Most can be removed with a Phillips head screwdriver. However, some may use hex head screws or have no screws at all.  Lay the board on its side. Put the smallest socket of your skateboard tool over one of the nuts on your skateboard trucks. It doesn't matter which one. Using your other hand, put the screwdriver into the screw that is inside that nut. You want both hands on either side of the skateboard to provide sufficient support.   Remove all the nuts and pull the trucks off of the screws. There will be eight screws left sticking up from your board. Once you have the skate tools in place, hold the screwdriver still while turning the socket wrench, and remove the nuts from the screws. Remove the screws by placing your skateboard face down on a hard flat surface and apply pressure. This will cause the screws to pop up and allow you to pull them the rest of the way out. A hammer can also be used to remove the screws instead of the aforementioned technique.


Remove the tubing from the breast pump. Rinse the tubing under running water. Soak the tubing in warm, soapy water. Rinse it thoroughly with warm, running water.

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Turn off the breast pump and unplug it from the power source. Disconnect the tubing from the breast shields. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions if you are unsure how to remove the tubing. Place the tubing in a sink or basin. Run water through the tubing to help remove residue. Keep rinsing until all the milk is gone. Fill the basin or sink with warm water and a few squirts of dish soap. Choose a mild dish soap without added moisturizers, or pick one formulated specifically for cleaning baby bottles, cups, and toys. Let the tubing soak for 2-3 minutes. Hold the tubing under warm running water to remove the soap. Rinse it out several times, letting the water run through the tubing for 10-15 seconds. Make sure there is no more soap left in the tubing before you set it aside to dry.


Remove the vial's cap. Open your sealed syringe. Remove the cap of the needle. Pull the syringe plunger to the desired dosage. Insert the needle into the vial. Depress the plunger. Pick the vial up. Draw your dose. Aspirate the syringe.

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Usually, medications given via subcutaneous injection come in small vials with an outer lid and an inner rubber diaphragm. Take the lid off of the vial and disinfect the rubber top with a cotton ball soaked in alcohol or an alcohol wipe. After wiping the top of the vial with alcohol, allow it to air dry for a few seconds. Modern subcutaneous injections are given with sealed, disposable needles to lessen the chance of infection. Remove your needle and syringe from its casing. From this point on, handle the needle and syringe with care. If the needle touches anything that hasn't been sterilized, don't risk infection by proceeding to use it for the injection. Instead, replace it with a new one.  This is a good time to double check the name on the bottle, the patient’s name, and the dosage. If your syringe doesn't come with the needle attached, you may need to gently insert and/or screw the needle onto the end of the syringe. Do this before removing the needle's cap. Grasp the needle's protective cap by pulling firmly outward. Do not touch the needle now or at any point during the following steps. Handle the needle with care. The barrel of the syringe has dosage measurements on the side. Line the plunger up with the precise measurement for your dosage. As you do this, air will be drawn into the syringe. Set the vial on a flat surface and carefully stab the needle through the vial's rubber diaphragm so that the needle's point is inside the vial. Push down on the plunger. Do this gently, but definitively. Do not leave any air in the syringe. This action pushes air into the vial.  Adding air to the vial serves an important purpose. By putting air in the vial, you increase the air pressure in the vial, which makes it easier to draw the correct dose because the extra air helps "push" the liquid out. Although this is standard practice with most injections, it’s not necessary with insulin or heparin. Carefully hold the vial in one hand and the syringe in the other. Turn the vial upside down in the air with the needle...


Remove the window screen, if applicable. Open your window while holding a long-handled scrubber. Dip the long-handled scrubber in a window cleaning solution. Wipe the squeegee across the window in rows. Work your way down the window with the squeegee.

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If your window has a screen, you will need to take it out before you can access your outside panels from the inside. How you remove the window screen depends on the specific brand but generally, you can pop the screen out by pressing the bottom of the screen frame up and lifting it out of the frame. If you live too high up to clean your window from the outside or don't want to clean it outdoors, you may be able to reach it with specially-designed tools. With a long-handled squeegee (or other size squeegee that suits your windows) or scrubber in hand, push your arm through the window to reach the panels from the inside. If you are not high up, lean slightly through the window to clean at a more comfortable angle.  If your windows are more than several stories up, maneuvering long-handled cleaning equipment can be dangerous. Use lightweight cleaning equipment to prevent dropping anything as you work. Never extend more than your arm outside of the window if you live in a home more than 1 story tall.  If your windows are high up and you don't want to risk dropping your equipment or leaning too far out, you may want to hire a window cleaning company instead. Use a commercial window cleaning solution or make your own using a 1:1 mixture of vinegar and hot water. Scrub every inch of the outside panel until it is coated in the cleaning solution. Try to scrub the panel bottom to top for a cleaner, more even coating of the solution. Starting with the top corner of the glass, press the squeegee against the panel and pull it from one side to the other. When you've reached the end of the row, pull the squeegee blade back in and wipe it with a microfiber cloth to remove excess water and debris. Align the squeegee rows so that the top row overlaps with the next row slightly. This will keep your window as streak-free as possible. Pull the squeegee steadily down the window until you reach the bottom row and have dried the window completely.


Remove the wires from the amplifier and attach them to a 9-volt battery. Inspect the speaker. Get a multimeter tester. Test the ohms.

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Listen out for a brief popping sound form the speaker.  This might require you to unscrew the speaker out of its holder. Only remove the wires if you're comfortable handling electronics. Remove the speaker cover so you can inspect the speaker itself. Attach the wires to a 9-volt battery again and observe the speaker. If the cone moves, your problem is in the connection, not the speaker. These simple electronic tools help measure ohms and voltages. They can be found at your local electronic store or hardware store. You can also use an ohmmeter. Set your device to reading ohms if you're using a multimeter. Make sure that the speakers are turned off. Touch the lead of your device to each terminal of the speaker. The terminal is the part of the speaker where the wires attach.  If you get a reading of 1.0 ohms, then that speaker is not blown and the problem is somewhere else. If the device reads infinite ohms, then your speaker is blown.


Remove ticks as soon as possible. Get a professional diagnosis. Expect to treat Lyme disease with antibiotics.

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In order to be infected with Lyme disease, a tick will usually have to be attached to your body for 36 hours.  This allows for plenty of time to safely remove a tick and prevent infection. Be sure to check yourself, your children, and your pets for ticks after spending time outdoors in areas where Lyme disease had been reported. It is especially hard to diagnose a case of Lyme disease.  A clear “bull’s eye” rash is the only way to readily diagnose early Lyme disease, as this is the only symptom unique to this disease; however, not everyone develops the rash.  Furthermore, many of the other symptoms associated with Lyme disease are very similar to the symptoms cause by other, more common illnesses.  Further, you may not know you’ve been bitten — so you may not suspect Lyme disease yourself. Bites themselves are tiny, and often entirely painless. You will need your blood tested by a doctor to diagnose Lyme disease without the presence of an EM rash.  These antibodies may not be present in your blood until a few weeks after infection.  You will likely have to go through multiple tests at various levels of specificity to establish an accurate diagnosis. If you see any other tests advertised to test for Lyme disease that do not involve a blood test, these tests are not legitimate. Your doctor will guide your through the treatment process of Lyme disease, which will likely include antibiotics. Depending on what stage your lyme disease is in when you are diagnosed, the length of time you will need to take antibiotics and which antibiotic you need to take may vary. In early disease (with EM rash), you would need to take for about two to three weeks every day. Once you begin treatment, your EM rash may subside, and pain and neurological issues should stop worsening; however, muscular and joint aches may persist for some time, as well as trouble concentration and short-term memory.


Remove unusable beans and small rocks. Rinse the beans. Soak the beans Drain the beans. Cook the beans.

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Pick out any rocks and any extra shriveled or crushed beans. The damaged beans won't cook properly, so it's best to remove them. If you want to be sure to catch them all, pour them onto a flat surface like a cooking sheet. Don't obsess over each bean; it's not a disaster if you don't catch every one. Rinse the dried beans in room temperature water and place them in a large pot. . After rinsing, fill the pot with water (at least twice as much volume as the beans fill) and soak the beans using one of two methods:   Overnight soaking: simply leave the beans in water for 8-12 hours. This method is the best for ensuring the beans absorb enough water to cook evenly all the way through.   Quick soak: bring the pot of water and beans to a boil, then turn off the burner and let soak 1 hour. This will do the job much faster, but the beans won't cook as evenly. The beans will expand as they absorb water, so leave space in the pot. Broken and split beans will rise to the water's surface. Remove these. The water you used to soak the beans now contains dirt as well as some of the complex sugars that cause gassiness. Using a new pot of water to cook the beans is recommended. Cover the beans with fresh water and boil 30 minutes. You can add spices for additional flavor, or leave them plain so the canned beans have greater versatility.  Don't cook the beans as long as they would usually take (normally 60-90 minutes or more). The canning process will finish cooking the beans. Optional: Add approximately 1/4 tsp (1mL) salt per pint (500 mL) of beans to better preserve color and flavor.  Good ingredients for adding flavor to beans include garlic, red pepper, cumin, coriander, and lemongrass. Don't use all of these at once!


Remove your Action Replay from your DS. Connect your Replay to a computer. Open the Replay code manager. Go into the code manager option menu. Reset the device. Verify that your Replay is fixed.

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Before you remove your Replay from your DS, you should first power it down completely. Failing to do so could create even more problems with your Replay. Your Action Replay should have come with a USB cable to link your Replay to a computer. Use this cable to hook up your Replay to an available computer. USB slots usually be found in the back or on the sides of your computer. You can determine a USB slot from other ports by finding the slot with a rectangular wafer in the middle; this will be your USB slot. The Replay code manager is a way for you to input and adjust cheats that are on your Replay. Some versions of Action Replay come with a disk that has this software on it, but in the event you don't have this disk or lost it, a quick Internet search for "Action Replay DS code manager" should populate a list of sites where you can potentially download this software. Before you download anything from the Internet, be sure that it is safe and does not contain viruses or malware that could harm your computer, Action Replay, or DS. Toward the top of the code manager, you should see four colored dots to the left of the words "Action Replay DSi/DS Code Manager." This icon represents the menu options for your Replay. Click this to view a list of options. Among the list of options in the menu for your Action Replay, there will be one labeled "About Action Replay DSi/DS Code Manager." When you click on this, the option to reset the device should be available to you. Select "Reset Device." Restart your Gameboy DS and your Action Replay along with it. Turn the power on and wait for your device to boot. If your device still reverts to an all white/black screen, your Action Replay may be completely broken, or your situation may require a different fix.


Remove your cabinet doors and label them. Strip old paint Clean the cabinets with a degreaser. Smooth out any holes or dents in wood or laminate with wood filler. Put down a drop cloth and tape the edges around your cabinet. Use a fine to medium grit sandpaper to roughen the cabinet surfaces. Paint a thin layer of bonding primer on your cabinet frames and doors.

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Use a screwdriver to take the doors and drawers off of the cabinet frames. Rip off a piece of painter's tape and label it with a letter or number. Put another piece of tape with the same label on the frame where you took the door off. Label each door differently so you know where each of them goes. Put your cabinets in an open space, like a garage or basement to keep them out of the way.  Make sure to empty out your cabinets and store the contents in another room while you're working. Keep all the hardware and hinges from your cabinets in resealable plastic bags for each cabinet. That way, they won't get lost or mixed up. off the cabinets if they were previously painted. Work in a well-ventilated area with a piece of cardboard underneath you. Starting at the top of the cabinet or frame, paint a layer of paint stripper on the surface. Let the stripper sit for at least 45 minutes. Use a plastic paint scraper to gently remove the paint in long strokes. Scrape all of your cabinets until the surface is flat and even.  Wear thick work gloves while working with paint stripper so your skin doesn't get irritated. You may need to use paint stripper multiple times if your cabinets have multiple coats. Spray a chemical degreaser on a cleaning rag or shop cloth until it's damp. Rub your cabinets with the cloth along the grain to remove any stuck-on oil. Clean all sides of your door and frame so the primer can stick to your cabinets. If you're painting kitchen cabinets, spend some extra time cleaning any cabinets that are near your cooking surfaces since they'll have more oil and grease on them. If you have large holes or dents that you want to hide under your paint, fill them with a synthetic wood product. Squeeze the wood filler into the spot and smooth it out with a flexible plastic scraper. Allow the wood filler to dry for a 30 minutes before moving on. Wood filler can be purchased at your local home improvement or hardware store. Lay a sheet on the floor and countertops so you don't spill any paint or primer on them....


Remove your drain cover. Flush your drain with boiling water. Pour 1/2 cup (110.40 g) of baking soda down the drain. Pour a 1/2 cup (118.29 ml) of white vinegar down the drain. Allow the mixture in your drain to fizz for 10 minutes. Flush your sink one last time with boiling water.

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Remove any covers that are on top of your drain. If you have a pop-up drain stopper, turn the cover counter-clockwise to remove it from the drain. Eliminate any excess food that's left over from washing dishes or hair that's built up near the top of the drain. Empty out of the sink before you start cleaning the drain. Boil a pot of water in a kettle and pour it down your drain before you get started. This initial flush will remove any smaller particles that have built up in the drain. Measure a 1/2 cup (110.40 g) of baking soda in a measuring cup. Slowly pour the powder down the drain. Pour the vinegar on top of the baking soda to create the chemical reaction that should clean and sanitize your drain. The baking soda will start to fizz. Let the mixture to sit for 10 minutes, and the solution will work its way down your drain to remove potential clogs or buildup. Boil another pot of water and pour it down the sink to wash the remaining baking soda and vinegar in your sink. If you still smell the vinegar odor from the sink, you can flush it again with another pot of boiling water.


Remove your dumpy level’s lens cap. Adjust the eyepiece until you can see the device’s crosshairs. Twist the device’s focusing knob until the image is clear.

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The lens cap protects your device’s lens from unwanted dirt, grime, and debris. To avoid damaging your instrument, leave the lens cap on until you’re ready to use the device. If your lens is dirty, wipe it down with a pre-moistened lens wipe. You can find these at most camera stores and a number of big-box stores. Place a sheet of paper or a similar object directly in front of your device’s lens to occupy its entire field of vision. Then, turn the eyepiece’s focusing knob until you can clearly see the dumpy level’s crosshairs. When finished, your crosshairs should appear dark, sharp, and easily noticeable. Once you can see the crosshairs, point your device’s telescope toward your benchmark spot. Look for a large, distinct object in the area, such as a tree or hilltop, then twist your device’s primary focusing knob until the object comes into focus. If you’re having trouble focusing, ask a friend or colleague to hold an E staff near the benchmark spot. This metered measuring stick will give you an easy object to focus on.


Remove your eye makeup with olive oil. Use coconut oil. Make a solution of water, witch hazel and almond or jojoba oil.

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Since the mascara is waterproof, use the opposite of water: oil. Oil breaks down the waterproof properties in your mascara, helping it slide off your lashes with minimal scrubbing and wiping.  Pour olive oil on your fingers and rub your eyelashes with your index finger and thumb until your lashes are coated with oil. The mascara should then come off easily.  If your skin still feels oily afterwards and you cannot easily remove it with a clean, dry cloth, wash your face. Coconut oil does a great job of breaking down your mascara and leaves the delicate skin around your eyes hydrated, too. Put a dab of coconut oil on a cotton ball and gently sweep it over your eyes. Then use a clean dry cloth to wipe away the oil with the mascara. This solution has a shelf life of 6 months and will not sting or irritate your eyes.  Combine 2 tablespoons witch hazel, 2 tablespoons of jojoba oil or almond oil, and 2 tablespoons water in a clean container or dispenser. Shake up the solution to ensure it is properly combined. Wipe the solution on your eyes with clean fingers, or apply it to a cotton ball or makeup pad to remove the makeup.


Remove your kale to cut and wash it as soon as you buy it. Remove the stems. Fill a bowl with clean tap water.

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You should actually wash kale right away instead of waiting until you're going to eat it. This will prevent any dirt or debris from becoming set on the kale. While you can save the stems to use them for cooking later, it's generally easier to remove them prior to cleaning your kale as it's easier to get to the leaves. Use a knife to slice the leaves away from the kale's stem, getting as close to the stem as possible. If you do decide to use the stems, dice them prior to cooking as they can be very rough. Take a bowl big enough to fully submerge all your kale. Fill it with clean tap water. Leave a little headspace on the top as the water will rise some when you add the kale.


Remove your memory card. Insert the memory card into your computer. Select "Import. Choose your photos. Enjoy your photos.

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If your phone is not USB compatible, it is likely that it has a removable Memory card. Consult your user manual to find how to eject it safely. Wait a few moments for the computer to read the card. Once it has, the upload process will be nearly identical to the USB Method. Your computer may not have a memory card slot, and if that is the case you can find inexpensive card readers at any computer store. " You will be asked if you would like to import all of your files and photos or to select from those saved on your phone. This process will relatively the same whether on a Windows or Mac device. The uploading process may take a few minutes depending on the number of photos. These can usually be found in the Photo App in Windows or the iPhoto App on a Mac unless you saved them to a particular file on your computer.


Remove your oil from the stovetop. Pour your cooled oil into a bottle. Test your oil before using it.

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As soon as you’ve tested the oil and have confirmed that it’s thoroughly warmed, you’re ready to remove the pan from heat. Let it sit as it cools down to room temperature. You can purchase empty airtight bottles at most stores where kitchen supplies are sold. However, you can always clean out an empty bottle you have around the house. Repurpose an old olive oil bottle after thoroughly cleaning it with some water and dish soap. Shake your bottle of chili oil sporadically to make sure the chilies are distributed throughout the oil. If you taste your homemade chili oil right after making it, it might taste pretty mild. However, the chilies will continue to release heat after you bottle it up. In other words, your chili oil can get gradually hotter the longer it sits! If you’re pouring it into a stir-fry, make sure you do a quick taste test first. Chili oil be stored from about 9 months to one year.


Remove your old range hood, if one exists. Purchase your new range hood.

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Detach all the wires near the light fixture of the old hood by unscrewing all the wire nuts and separating the connections. Next, loosen the screws that hold the hood into place while a partner holds the old range hood in place. Lift the hood slowly off the screws, put the hood down, and remove the loosened screws. Make sure the range hood is large enough to cover your stovetop and that your space above the stovetop leaves at least 24 inches (60.96 cm) of clearance. If you can, purchase a range hood that extends at least one inch (2.5 cm) over all four sides of your cooking area.  Buy a hood with the correct CFM rating. The cfm rating represents how much air the vent can pull each minute, or cubic feet per minute. To find the right cfm rating for your kitchen, multiply the square footage of your kitchen by 2. 250 cfm is a respectable amount for an average-size kitchen, while 400 cfm is excellent. Make sure the range hood you are buying is the correct size that will fit. The most common sizes are 36in, 48in, and 60in. Make sure that a venting range hood will vent through the right spot in the wall. Range hoods will vent either through the cabinets above or through the wall. If you're buying a new range hood and dealing with a pre-existing vent pipe, make sure that both connect easily. If, for example, the range supports cabinet (upper) venting but your existing vent pipe goes through the wall directly behind the vent, you're going to have trouble connecting the two.


Remove your pad, tampon, or cup before you shower. Shower or bathe at least once per day during your period. Use plain warm water to wash your vagina. Rinse from front to back to prevent infections. Cleanse the outside of your vagina only. Pat the outside of your vagina dry with a clean, dry towel. Put on clean underwear and a new pad, tampon, or cup right away.

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It’s fine to let your vagina bleed in the shower. The blood will run right down the drain. If you wore a pad, the brown or red tinged water that you see going down the drain will likely be old blood that was stuck to your pubic hairs. It’s important to rinse this off.  Not cleaning off this old blood will cause an odor and it may also increase your risk of infection.  Don’t worry about the blood staining the shower. It will not make contact with it long enough to do this. Just keep the water running until your shower is over and then check to see if there’s any blood that you need to rinse down the drain. If you’re showering at a gym or in another public place, you may leave a tampon or menstrual cup in during the shower if you prefer. Regular showers during your period are necessary to prevent odor and reduce your risk of infection. Take a shower or bath at least once per day. Some medical professionals even recommend bathing twice daily during your period, such as in the morning and at night. Always make sure that the bathtub is clean if you want to take a bath. Soaking in a dirty bathtub may lead to an infection in your vagina. Clean your bathtub with a disinfectant cleaner, such as bleach, before you take a bath in it. Avoid using any scented or harsh soaps or other intimate care products to cleanse your vagina. These are not necessary and they may cause irritation. Plain, warm water is the best cleanser for your vagina. If you want to use soap, opt for a mild, unscented soap and use a small amount to gently clean the outside of your vagina. Rinsing from front to back, just as you would wipe after using the bathroom, is important to prevent the spread of bacteria and fecal matter to your vagina. While standing in the shower, let the water flow down the front of your body and over your vagina. If needed, you can also spread apart the labia to allow the water to flow over the inside of your vaginal lips.  If you have a handheld shower head, only angle it so that it sprays your vagina from front to back....


Remove your pet from the cold. Increase the temperature. Hydrate your pet. Feed your pet.

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Before you do anything, double-check the duration of time your turtle or tortoise is supposed to hibernate for; most species fall within 2-4 months. Remove the hibernaculum, if using, and warm your pet to 60°F (15°C). Soak your tortoise or turtle, as you have been, every other day. Keep your pet at 60°F (15°C) for 2 days. Increase to and maintain at 65-68°F (18-20° C) for 2-3 days. Finally, return your pet to non-hibernation temperatures (70°F-80°F, or 21°C-27°C).  Waking up is a mirror image of going into hibernation. “Waking up” is characterized by more movement and activity. Drinking water is important throughout this process. However, your pet might avoid food. Keep the temperature warm. Temperature for critical in your pet’s metabolism, and cold temperatures can make your pet vulnerable to illness. Use a heat lamp or focal light to warm up your turtle or tortoise if it is not active or eating properly. Soak your pet in water 20-30 minutes every other day, as you have been doing so far. Still provide your pet with constant water to access. Your pet must drink to flush out the toxins in its kidneys accumulated from hibernation.  If your tortoise or turtle does not drink and hydrate itself, see your doctor immediately.   Use a sink, bathtub, large deep food tray, or other "bath" container suitable to the size of your pet. Tortoises "drink" through their anus, so this soak in water is the same as drinking it. Begin offering food 2 days after the tortoise is returned to room temperature. Provide the same food as before, and let your pet take its time beginning to feed again.  Some turtles take weeks to feed again, and males might feed only until after breeding. However, if you see signs of vomit, upset stomachs, or any other illness or infection, see your doctor immediately. All tortoises should feed within 1 week of hibernation. If not, your tortoise is sick or getting sick. See your vet immediately.


Remove your phone's back casing. Pop out the old battery. Put in the new battery. Replace your phone's back casing. Properly dispose of the old battery. If all else fails, call your carrier.

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Be sure to practicing safe battery-handling techniques. Do not get the battery wet, do not apply strong impacts to the battery, and do not expose it to heat. Mishandling of lithium ion batteries can result in overheating, explosion or fire. If you suspect the battery may be the problem, try replacing it with a spare.   Lithium ion batteries pose health and environmental hazards. They must be disposed of by way of recycling service or at a household hazardous waste facility. Check http://www.call2recycle.org/locator/ to locate your nearest collection center. A technician will be able to advise you as to whether your phone will need to be replaced or if it can be repaired. You may need to schedule an appointment.


Remove your shirt. Lay out the shirt. Dab the stain. Dab with a damp cloth.

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Act quickly. Immediately after the stain happens, go change into something else and take off your linen shirt. Make sure that as you are taking off the shirt, you do not touch any other part of the shirt to the stained section. This could spread the stain to other parts of the shirt. Lay the shirt out on a flat, even surface. If the shirt is stained on the front, roll up the back of the shirt so that the stain does not spread through the front of the shirt onto the back. You can also slip a towel in the shirt between the front and back to prevent spreading. Take a clean cloth or paper towel and blot gently at the shirt. Make sure not to rub or scrub the shirt. This could cause the stain to get ingrained into the shirt and make it harder to get out. If the stained area is big, start from the outside, working your way towards the center. This way, you can contain the stain and keep it from spreading. After you have already absorbed all you can with a dry cloth, try dabbing the shirt with a dampened cloth. The moisture from the damp cloth prevents the stain from setting and can help you absorb the spilled wine.


Remove yourself from the criticism. Laugh it off. Ignore the criticism.

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Take time to reflect, absorb the criticism, and to get away from the tense situation.  It’s important to note the criticism is likely about actions rather than you as a person.  Leave the room.  Remove yourself from the critic’s presence and close the door behind you. Take a brief walk.  Give yourself an extra few minutes to really think about what was said. Disengage from the critic by avoiding them.  Avoid their attention and maybe the criticism will cease. Laughter is virtually a 100% positive endeavor that interrupts your brain from negative feelings.  Taking the criticism too harshly could very well be a misunderstanding of intent or degree, and it could affect you psychologically.  Find the humor in the critic’s demeanor or unfounded criticism, and you’ll feel better about the situation.   Make yourself laugh by thinking about how the criticism relates to a difficult or embarrassing time for you. Reflect on the encounter with the critic in a different outfit, hair-style, or other modification that makes them look goofy. Be introspective and realize you may have just been completely misguided, and the criticism may be warranted for a legitimately boneheaded mistake. Reimagine the scenario with you dishing out the criticism and the critic receiving it. Some criticism is misplaced, wrong, or just ridiculous.  Outright dismiss what is being said if the criticism is unwarranted.  Some criticism is easier than others to outright reject:  If the criticism is from someone you do not respect, it is much easier to dismiss.   Irrational criticism is part and parcel of our lives.  We can't live like normal humans without criticizing others and receiving criticism.  When too much emotion gets involved, we often go beyond what can be a civilized way of criticizing. Criticism containing lies or blame incorrectly attributed to you is destructive and not worth accepting.  Dismiss the criticism and inform the critic of the mistake.


Remove “should” from your vocabulary. Stop using black-and-white language. Don't view everything in catastrophic terms. List your accomplishments every day, week, month, and year.

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Perfectionists think and talk about what they “should” be doing instead of what they are doing, or what they “should” do or never do. These types of absolutes set you up for inevitable failure.  Instead of saying “I should be working on next week's presentation instead of sitting out here in the garden,” allow yourself some time to relax and schedule in some work time for later. Rather than telling yourself “I should get every question right on this test,” try “I'll do my best and look carefully to avoid silly mistakes.” Perfectionists set up scenarios in which the only possible results are either “perfection” or “failure,” with no middle ground. This makes it impossible to achieve a goal with a few inevitable flaws, and makes you feel like a “loser” even when you accomplish a task to someone else's satisfaction. Add words like “acceptable” and “good enough” to your vocabulary, and use them when evaluating tasks and your results. Perfectionists tend to create the worst case scenario in regards to failure. They'll say things like “If I don't get this just right, everyone will hate me” or “Everyone will see that I'm not cut out for this job.” When you feel this way, try to balance things out with some best-case scenarios.  For instance, say to yourself “If I mess up this part, we'll all have a laugh and move on,” based on what you've observed when others have done the same thing. Part of catastrophic thought is “probability overestimation” — that is, overplaying your odds of failure or of negative consequences from failure. Try to look at the situation from a detached perspective and consider the true “odds.” Every evening, write down at least one thing you accomplished that day, no matter how mundane: “I emptied out my junk drawer in the dining room.” Do the same on a weekly, monthly, and perhaps even annual basis. In the process, you'll realize just how much you get done — and that you are therefore the opposite of a “failure.” Don't assess how “perfect” of a job you did — just focus on what you got done....


Rename Sheet1 to "BEP" and select it. Create the layout for your break even sheet. Change the numeric formats for the output and input cells. Create ranges to use in the formulas.

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This sheet will house your main BEP (Break Even Point) chart. You don't have to rename it to "BEP," but it will be easier to navigate your workbook if you do. For the purposes of this example, create your sheet using the following layout:  A1: Sales - This is the label for the Sales section of the spreadsheet. B2: Price Per Unit - This will be the price you charge for each item you sell. B3: Units Sold - This will be the number of units you have sold at the specified price in a set timeframe. A4: Costs - This is the label for the Costs section of the spreadsheet. B5: Variable Costs - These are the costs of your product that you have control over (shipping, commission rates, etc.) B6: Fixed Costs - These are the costs of your product that you don't have control over (facility rent, insurance, etc.) A7: Revenue - This is the amount of money selling your products generates before costs are considered. B8: Unit Margin - This is the amount of money you make per unit after costs are considered. B9: Gross Margin - This is the total amount of money you make for all the units sold after costs. A10: BEP - This is the label for the Break Even Point section of the spreadsheet. B11: Units - This is the number of units you need to sell to match your cost outlay. You'll need to change the numeric formats for certain cells in order for your data to appear correctly:  Highlight C2, C5, C6, C8, and C9. Click the drop-down menu in the "Number" section of the Home tab and choose "Currency." Highlight C3 and C11. Click the drop-down menu and select "More number formats." Select "Number" and then set "Decimal places" to "0." Select and create the following ranges to make your formulas work. This will create variables that can be plugged into your formulas, allowing you to easily reference and update these values.  Select B2:C3 and then click the "Formulas" tab. Click "Create from selection" and then click "OK." Select B5:C6 and then click the "Formulas" tab. Click "Create from selection" and then click "OK." Select B8:C9 and then...


Rename any video files with multiple periods in the name. Launch iTunes. Import the video. Click the "Movies" button. Click the "Home Videos" tab. Move the video to your "Movies" or "TV Shows" library. Sync your movies to your iOS device.

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Oftentimes videos downloaded from torrents will have multiple periods in the name to denote who ripped and encoded the video. Remove any of these extra periods, as they can cause problems when trying to import into iTunes.  Right-click on the file and select "Rename" to edit the name. Make sure that you are running the latest version. Click the File menu (Windows) or iTunes menu (OS X) and select "Add File to Library" (Windows) or "Add to Library" (OS X). Browse for the converted video and select it.   If you are using Windows and don't see the File menu, press the Alt key. You will not receive any error or confirmation when adding a video file. This is located in the row of buttons along the top of the iTunes window, and looks like a film strip. Any movie you import will be added as a "Home Video". If you don't see the video that you just imported, it wasn't properly converted to an iTunes-compatible format. It can be difficult to find the video you want if they're all sorted into the "Home Video" library. Moving them to the proper spot will make it easier to watch or sync the videos later.   Right-click the video and select "Get Info". Click the "Options" tab in the window that appears. Click "Home Video" next to "media kind" to select the library that you want to move it to. Click OK to save the changes. You will now be able to find the video in the proper library. Now that the files are in iTunes, you can sync them to your iOS device. Click here for details on syncing.  If the video does not sync to your device, you'll need to create a version in iTunes that your device supports. Click File and select "Create New Version". Select the device that you are syncing the video to, and then wait for the conversion to complete.


Rename porn files on your computer so they don’t sound suspicious. Encrypt the files Download a vault app to hide images and videos on your mobile device. Consider streaming porn instead of storing it on your devices.

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When you download porn to your computer, the name of the file might make it obvious what’s inside. Fortunately, you can easily change the name of your files to something boring or innocent-sounding so that anyone who comes across them on your computer won’t know what they really are. For example, you could change the file name to something like “work_documents” or make it a random series of numbers and letters, like “Jmp356.” on your computer for a more secure option. Encrypting files involves locking them away in a passcode-protected file that’s difficult for others to break into. If you’re worried about someone snooping on your computer and you don’t think renaming your files is enough to keep them hidden, encrypting them might be your best option. To encrypt your files, you’ll need to download an encryption tool to your computer. Some encryption tools you can use include TrueCrypt, VeraCrypt, and BitLocker. Vault apps are apps for mobile devices that allow you to add photos and videos and then lock them away behind a passcode or other form of verification. You can download a vault app from your phone’s app store, store your porn in it, and then hide the app in a folder on your phone so it’s harder to find. Some vault apps you can try include Private Photo Vault Pro, Smart Safe Pro, and Photo Manager Pro. There are a variety of websites available, both free and subscription-based, where you can stream porn online without having to download it to your device. By streaming porn instead of storing it, you won’t have to worry about anyone stumbling across your files. Even if you stream porn instead of downloading it, you’ll still need to take measures to prevent people from seeing your browsing history.


Rename the file. Save the file to a new location.

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Right-click the scanned image, and then click Rename. In the Rename File dialog box, in the New Title field, type a meaningful name for the scanned image, and then click OK. The default file name is Image. Right-click the scanned image, and then click Save As. In the Save As dialog box, choose the folder you'd like to use, name the file, and then click Save. The default save location for scanned images is in a Scanned folder within the Pictures folder.


Renew your belief in healthy relationships. Allow for sad moments. Remind the world. Welcome him back with conditions. Be self-reliant.

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When you feel up to it, reaffirm that you believe in the possibility of having a healthy relationship. It may not be right away. Once you’ve been through a rejecting experience with a significant other and that initial pain is resolving, you can focus on what you really want out of your next relationship. Look at it as paying honor to yourself and your desires. This will help you affirm that you matter. Feel them. Live them. Let them go. They might come out of nowhere when you’re walking down the aisle at the grocery store, or driving down the street or when a song plays that causes an emotional upheaval. These moments happen more frequently at the beginning, but will lessen over time. You went through a traumatic experience and those feelings need to be expressed. Suppressing your feelings can create other health problems, so let them have their day in the sun. You are here to live life and enjoy it. Standing up for yourself will remind you that you deserve to be happy, and the world will notice. When you reach a level of healing after a bad experience other people perceive a change. People might say things like, “Did you do something different? You look great.” Your response can be, “Thank you. Yes, I decided to be happy and it is working for me.” If you decide to allow your ex-boyfriend back into your life, make your wishes clear. You’ve had a lot of time to reflect on your wishes, hopes and desires. These priorities need to be discussed. You should be able to reach an agreement with him if he is truly interested in having a committed relationship with you. If he seems hesitant or deceptive in any way, take a step back and evaluate if you really want to risk heartache again with this person. You reserve the right to decline. Happiness is an inside job and you are responsible to create it. You know what makes you happy, so participate in activities that will build a reservoir of positive feelings. It is easier to face negative and difficult people if you are filled with good vibes. A happier you will always...


Rent a room. Save money on books. Look for used books. See if you can use an older edition. Rent or share textbooks. Carry cash only. Save on food on campus. Opt out of your dining plan. Save on clothes. Barter your services with friends. Reduce your transportation costs. Cut out luxuries. Take advantage of student discounts. Look for free entertainment. Consider joining one or more of the clubs on campus.

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If you rent or own off-campus, you can free up a large chunk of cash by cutting down on your share of rent and utility expenses by finding a roommate. Carefully screen applicants—it may be a good idea to begin searching for a roommate among your friends and classmates. Be sure to draw up an agreement between the two of you outlining how bills will be handled, and make sure you aren't violating your current lease if you bring in an additional person to your home. Books are a large expense for any college student, but it's not a good idea to forego purchasing them at all. There are, however, various ways to potentially save hundreds on your book costs over the course of the school year. Once your reading list is available, begin by checking the prices in the campus bookstore, but them look elsewhere for better deals. You can usually find cheaper options (both new and used) online or by going to local used bookstores, who often buy books from students at the end of the term. Given that professors often use the same texts from term to term, you may be able to score much cheaper versions of the book. You may even be able to check the text out for free from the campus or local library. If your professor has assigned a newer edition of a text, you may be able to get buy with an older (cheaper) edition of the text. Publishers often make very few changes from edition to edition, and the only thing that may vary is the page numbers or the occasional addition of a new reading. Double-check with your professor to see if an older edition will work for you before you commit to buying. You may also be able to rent your textbooks for a much reduced cost, or you can split the cost of a pricey book with a classmate or roommate who is enrolled in the same course. If you do this, make sure that you have a clear schedule for when each of you will access to the book. You may be able to spend less by limiting yourself to only paying for items with cash. Put your debit and credit cards away, or tuck them in corner of your wallet to...


Rent a suit. Wear a nice button down and slacks. Match your date. Clean yourself up.

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A classic suit or tux in black paired with a white shirt is a staple for any formal occasion. Renting your formal attire is a great cost-effective option when preparing for your formal.  Make sure to try on all the parts of your outfit in advance, so you know they fit. Set up your rental plenty of time in advance. You can even rent dress shoes, if you don’t have any. When planning for formal, don’t feel like you have to wear a suit or a tux if you don’t want to. A button down shirt and slacks is a great alternative.  You can even get a little bit casual and pair black jeans with a button down and bow tie or suspenders. Alternatively, make a classic suit more interesting by wearing nice sneakers like Converse. If you plan on attending formal with a date, you should plan your outfits in advance together. Though you should stick to standard neutrals for your main suit, you do want the accents to match your partner’s dress or outfit.  For example, if your date has a green dress, you might want to wear a green bow tie. If you can get a picture of your date’s outfit before you got to pick out yours. That way, you can better match colors. You want to make sure that you look your best at the eighth grade formal. Shave off any stubble you have, and use a little hair gel to comb through your hair.  Wash your face, and pluck any stray eyebrow hairs. Give yourself a few sprays of cologne, if you have it.


Rent an electric sewer snake. Prepare for heavy lifting. Feed the cable into the drain. Stop when you feel resistance. Remove the cable entirely if you encounter large clogs. Repeat the process until the drain is clear. Hose out the drain. Call a professional.

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To clean your French drain, rent an electric sewer snake (or auger), a motor-powered spool of cable with a two-pronged cutter at its tip. Call two or three rental locations (e.g. hardware stores, equipment rental stores) to compare prices, which should be around $65 or more for a half day rental. Choose between a 50-foot and 100-foot model (depending on the length of your french drains), and opt for a machine with 3⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) cable. If you don't drive a truck, van, or SUV, borrow one or ask a friend for a lift with the auger, which is too heavy to be put into a car trunk. Ask a rental store employee to help you lift the machine into the vehicle, and enlist the help of a family member, friend, or neighbor to move it once you get home. If you are moving the snake on your own, use a ramp to ease it out of the vehicle. Most augers have two wheels on their frame, allowing you to move them easily once they are on the ground. Uncover the entrance of the French drain. If your french drain is connected to a gutter downspout, detach the downspout to continue. Turn on the auger and slowly feed the cable in. To protect your hands, wear thick gloves while handling the cable. When the cable meets resistance (indicating that it has reached a clog, or has come to a turn in the pipe) stop feeding it into the drain and retract it just enough to free the cutter. Slowly ease it forward once again. Either the cable will find its way around a bend, or a blockage will cause it to turn, allowing the cutter end to work through the obstruction. You may need to wiggle the cable and gently move it back and forth to get it around a bend. If the cable encounters a large clog that it cannot clear, remove it entirely by pulling it gently and using the reverse switch on the snake motor (if necessary). Wipe down the cable with a wet rag as it recoils to remove build up. Once the cable is out entirely, turn off the machine and remove debris (e.g. pieces of tree root, leaves) from the cutter. Repeat the process of feeding the cable into...