Mop up as much of the staining liquid as you can with a dry, folded paper towel. Wipe down and dry a waterproof surface and spread the page onto it. Moisten a clean paper towel and once again carefully dab the stain. Prepare a dilute vinegar solution. Moisten a cotton ball with the solution and carefully dab a small word on the document. Dab the cotton ball on the stain. Dab the area where the stain once was with a dry paper towel.

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If the towel soaks through, use a fresh one to mop up the rest. Careful dabbing will minimize the size of the stain by not spreading the liquid around. Press lightly up and down with care so as to not damage the paper. Be absolutely sure your work area is clean or you will have a second stain to remove! Hold the paper down at two or more corners with clean, waterproof objects. This step is to minimize the possibility of wrinkling the page. Repeat this with fresh paper towels until you stop seeing color come off onto the towel.  With water based stains that haven’t been left to dry, most pigment will be removed using just this method. If your stain persists, move on to the next step. In a bowl, mix a half cup of  white vinegar with half a cup of water. Most other types of vinegar will themselves stain paper, so be sure the vinegar you use is completely clear. This step should be done away from the paper to avoid spills and further damage. Check to see if any ink has come off onto the cotton ball. Some printing methods produce ink that will not run, but others will. In case it does, be sure to select the smallest, least conspicuous part of the paper to test.  If ink has come off of the document, further attempts at removing the stain may ruin your paper.  If the cotton ball is clear, proceed to the next step. Any remaining pigment should be dissolved by the vinegar and be lifted from the page. If the stain was large or dark, you may have to repeat this step with a fresh soaked cotton ball as the first becomes dirty. Using fresh cotton balls ensures you don't inadvertently spread the stain across the page. Allow the paper to air dry. If the item you just cleaned was the page of a book, leave the book open to that page. Use weights to hold down paper towels on the pages on either side of the freshly cleaned page.


Mop up spills right away. Use lemon juice or vinegar on a rust stain. Sprinkle cat litter over oil stains. Apply a store-bought grease remover as an alternative. Scrub tough stains with detergent and water.

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If you spill oil or another solution on your garage floor, always clean it up right away. These liquids can set in the floor, making them more difficult to clean later on. Use paper towels or reusable rags to mop up the mess, and throw them out or launder them when you are done. If you have rust stains on a concrete floor, try pouring lemon juice or vinegar on the stain. Use enough to cover the stain. Wait 5 minutes, then pour a second dose on top. Using a scrub brush with stiff bristles, scour the stain from the floor.  If this does not work, you can try the same method but with a stronger, store-bought acid or rust remover. For very tough rust stains, you can mix ten parts water to one part muriatic acid. Apply to the stain, and leave it for five minutes before scrubbing out.  Do not use acids or vinegar on epoxy floors. If you have a dried oil stain or if there is oil residue leftover after a spill, find some cat litter containing clay. Spread this over the stain. Leave the litter alone for a few hours or overnight to absorb the oil. Sweep it up when you are done. If the cat litter has not completely absorbed the oil after a day, replace it with fresh litter, and leave it for another day. For bad oil spills, this process can take a few days. For oil and grease stains, you can purchase an oil and grease remover. Follow the instructions on the label. Generally, you will apply the solution to the stain, and let it dry. This usually takes several hours. When it is dry, you can sweep it up. These grease removers can typically be bought at a hardware store. Gather a box of powdered detergent, a bucket of warm water, and a stiff scrub brush. Sprinkle the detergent over the stain until it completely covers it. Dip the brush in the water, and scrub the stain vigorously until it is gone. When you are finished, wipe up as much detergent as you can with rags or paper towels, and let it dry.


Motivate students to do the reading with quizzes. Require students to come to class with questions. Provide participation opportunities within lectures. Incorporate theory. Discuss specific passages with your students. Turn in-class discussions into in-class writing assignments. Include group activities.

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One of the biggest challenges of teaching college literature is getting your students to come to class prepared. One way to motivate your students to do the readings and come to class ready to discuss them is to give daily reading quizzes.  You can either create simple short answer quizzes or assign writing prompts that will test your students' knowledge of the reading. Give these quizzes at the beginning of every class. You may even incorporate the quizzes into your class discussions, such as by asking students to share their answers. Make sure that you give an adequate amount of points for the quizzes and responses. For example, if the quizzes for the entire semester are only worth 5% of the overall grade, then some students may not see these as worthy of their time and effort. Instead, consider making the quizzes worth around 20 to 30% of the total grade. Another option to motivate students to do the assigned readings is to require students to come to class with questions about the reading. You can then use your students' questions to kick off the class discussion.  For example, you might require your students to bring in a set of three discussion questions per class and invite students to ask questions at random. Then, you could also collect the questions at the end of the class and give points to students who completed the questions. Make sure that you explain how to write a good discussion question before you start requiring your students to bring in questions. Explain to students that good discussion questions should be open-ended. They should not result in a yes or no answer, or a single answer, such as “What was the name of Mrs. Dalloway’s visitor?” Instead, a good question might be something like, “What is the significance of the lines from Shakespeare’s Cymbeline that Mrs. Dalloway reads? Do these lines seem to have importance to anyone else but her? Why or why not?” If you give a lecture, make sure that you include a participation opportunity about every seven to 10 minutes. These opportunities...


Mount bathroom towel racks on the back of kitchen cupboards. Use old disposable razors as sweater shavers. Save all old toothbrushes. Fill an old contact case with salt and pepper. Stuff plastic bags into an empty tissue paper hold. Use a hotel shower cap to wrap around shoes in your luggage.

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The lids to your pots and pans will slip neatly into the area between the rack and the cupboard, leaving drawers less cluttered. The slightly dull blade will keep you from cutting a hole in the knitting. Shave just above the surface to remove pills. They are excellent for cleaning tarnished silverware; mud off boots and hard to reach places. They can also remove the silk from corn cobs efficiently. Take them with you when you travel to a cabin or a cookout. It will allow you to store them in a small space and pull them out one and at a time. Protect the rest of your clothes from outside dirt.


Mount drip molding around the perimeter of the roof. Place the flashing in the valleys of the roof, where two sections create a valley. Pop a series of chalk lines with 6-inch (15-cm) spacing. Lay the starter course Lay the first course. Lay the second row of shingles. Shingle around vents and chimneys. Install preformed ridge shingles. Finish the job.

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Use roofing nails, spaced 12-inches (30-cm) apart, extending 1/4 inch (6.5 mm) to 3/8 inch (1 cm) beyond the edge of the roof, over the felt paper. Nail this down as you did the drip molding. Flashing either comes premade, bent to fit or flat and ready to be cut. Some roofers like to salvage old flashing that's reusable. Valley flashing is almost always worn out, but use your judgment to see if it's still in good shape. Generally, you'll want to replace it. Use the chalk marks to maintain straight course lines for the shingles. . Follow the chalk lines, nailing your shingles down at intervals of 6 inches (15 cm). Space each nail 3 inches (7 cm) from the top edge of the shingle. Depending on the kind of shingles you purchase there may be a special starter row of shingles or a roll of strip material that you cut to the length of your roof.  If you're using 3 tab shingles, put in your nails about 3/4 inch (1.8 centimeters) above the cutouts, near where the tab meets the upper part of the shingle. Also place a nail 2 inches from each end of the shingle, in line with the other two. In all, you'll use four nails for each 3-tab shingle to make them secure.    Snap a horizontal chalk line over the starting row to use as a guide and remove the plastic strips on the back of the shingles in the package. Cut six inches off the length of the first starter shingle nailed on, then use the rest of them full size. Shifting them in this way will join the ends of the first regular row of shingles placed over the starter shingles.  Alternatively, you can use a starting row of full-sized shingles by turning them with the tabs pointing upward. Set the first shingle of the second row back a half tab, 6 inches (17 centimeters), from the edge of first shingle on the first row and so that the bottom of its tabs just touches the tops of the cutout slots on the shingle below. This 1/2 tab has to be cut off where it hangs off the left edge of the gable roof. Continue laying your shingles in this same basic manner, trimming shingles to...


Mount the cylinder onto a motor. Mount the motor in place. Test the cylinder. Mount the stationary outer portion. Add an amplifying horn (optional).

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Fit the small hole at one end of the cylinder onto a motor shaft. This fit should be as secure as possible, so replace the motor shaft with one of a different size if necessary. A small siren may function on a hand-cranked motor, but larger motors will be required for heavy sirens.  Never put your hand or any object on the cylinder while it is attached to a motor, even while it is not spinning. The larger the siren, and the more powerful the motor, the more effort you'll need to spend keeping it all in place. Consider constructing a sturdy lumber platform to hold a large motor in place. For hand-cranked motors, a small stand to keep the cylinder off the ground may be all that is required. Standing well behind the siren, turn on the motor (or start cranking) and watch what happens. Be ready to turn it off again immediately if necessary. It's better to discover a broken piece or other problem now, before you attach the rest of the siren. Turn the motor off and let the cylinder wind down on its own before you continue. Carefully place the outer plywood board with the hole cut through it around the cylinder. Bolt it tightly in place to the motor's platform, so the wooden rim around the hole is near the cylinder, but in no danger of colliding with it. Your siren is already functional, and you will likely want to test it before you decide to make it louder. Any horn- or trumpet-shaped object, flaring outward, can be used to amplify the sound. Attach the base of this object onto the front of the wooden rim, not blocking the holes. You may need to expand the platform in back to balance out the weight of the horn.


Mount the horse. Use the reins to steer. Coax the horse into motion. Ride in open areas.

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Catch the reins in your left hand, then grasp the horse's wither, mane, or the saddle horn with your left hand and the back of the saddle with your right.  Do not pull on the horse. Place your left foot in the stirrup, pull yourself up, and swing your right leg over the horse's hindquarters.  Be careful not to kick the horse's rump as you swing your leg over his hindquarters, as he may begin to move if you do. Then again, they may do this anyway. It may be recommended to have someone else hold the horse while you are mounting. Drop your right foot in the stirrup, lean forward in a semi-standing position just above the saddle, and feel if the saddle seems tight.  If it has a tendency to slip, or doesn't feel tight, dismount, again on the left side, and re-tighten the chest strap. Pull up the reins, and get each at equal length while holding them over the center of the horse's neck with its head. The reins are basically the "steering wheel" of the horse. To turn left, you pull the reins left, so that the bit puts pressure on the horse's mouth, cuing him to move away from the pressure, turning the horse's head in that direction.  A second style of steering the horse involves the reins in two hands, where you hold one hand steady while the other exerts gentle pressure straight backwards, thus causing the horse to move away from the pressure, turning in response. The left hand is pulled back while the right hand is held steady, and so the horse turns to the left. It's important to always defer to your teacher's instructions when you're just learning. The specifics of guiding the horse into motion are complex and take lots of practice. Learn from an experience horse rider. Urge the horse forward by gently squeezing your calves into the horse's sides. Most horses respond to verbal commands too, commonly, "giddap" or "get up" to go forward, and "whoa" to stop. Remember that you will fall eventually, if you want to ride horses, there is nothing you can do to prevent that from happening, and if you don't want to fall,...


Mount the lens.

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The lens will be of one of two styles of Canon FD lenses, both of which mount slightly differently:        Old-school FD lenses have a chrome locking ring which you tighten to keep the lens in place.  Lenses with chrome locking rings, which is everything before about 1979 - Line up the red dots on the camera body and lens, then twist the chrome locking ring clockwise (looking from the front of the camera), until it's comfortably tight.       "New FD" lenses, like this 28mm f/2.8, mount just like the bayonet lenses they pretend to be.  New FD lenses - These don't have a locking ring. Again, line up the two red dots. Then, rotate the body of the lens until it clicks into place, just like the bayonet-mount lenses for other cameras which these lenses pretend to be.


Mount the relay in the engine bay. Ground the relay. Run a wire from the relay to an in-line fuse. Connect the fuse to the positive terminal on the battery. Wire the relay to the positive post on the spotlight. Run a wire from the relay to the switch.

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If your spotlight did not come with an electrical relay, you will need to install one.  Most stoplights should not be wired directly to a power source without being run through a relay.  If your kit did not come with one, purchase a SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) Relay from your local auto parts store.  Mount it inside your engine bay somewhere along the body of the vehicle.  Try to avoid mounting the relay too close to the exhaust manifold, as the heat may damage the relay. You can use heavy duty double sided tape, an adhesive, or drill holes through the metal to mount the relay. Run a short length of black wire from the relay to a bolt on the body or frame of the vehicle.  Expose a length of wire at the end and make a loop with it, then loosen the bolt and loop the exposed wire around it below the head.  Twist the wire around itself to secure it to the bolt, then tighten the bolt again.  This wire will provide the ground for the relay circuit. Whenever possible, use black wiring for grounds to make them easy to identify. Purchase an in-line fuse holder and connect it to the positive post on the relay.  You may need to run wire from the positive post to the in-line fuse holder if it can’t connect to it directly.  Make sure there is a fuse in the fuse holder rated to withstand the amperage required to power the spotlight.  This fuse will protect the spotlight and the relay from surges if there is an issue with your electrical system. The fuse will blow out if too much power flows through it, cutting the power and preventing a fire. Run a length of wire from the fuse holder to the positive terminal on the battery.  You may choose to wrap a length of exposed wire around a bolt on the battery cable, or you may choose to purchase a new Positive cable end.  If you do so, insert the end of the positive cable as well as the wire from the relay’s fuse into the end, then use pliers to compress the cable end until the wires are held securely in place.  This wire will provide the power to the relay, and then the...


Mount your dial indicator on a stand. Turn the outer dial face until the hand points to 0. Begin displacing your spindle. Check for errors at half revolutions. Begin to reverse your revolutions. Take five measurements of the same item.

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Your dial indicator should have an attachment that you can use to secure it to a stand. The stand will stabilize your dial indicator while you take your measurements. If you do not have a stand, it is still possible to calibrate your dial indicator, but it will not be as easy. The outer dial face can be moved by twisting the rim of the dial. Spin the outer face until the hand hovers over zero. Your calibration measurements will ensure that the dial indicator does read measurements starting at zero. If you discover errors, you will be able to correct for them by readjusting the outer face so that the hand hovers over the zero point. Stop at every 1/10 measurement to calculate errors. Continue to check for errors at 1/10 measurements for the first two revolutions of your dial. For the next five revolutions, stop at every half revolution to calculate for errors, rather than at the 1/10 mark.  If your dial indicator makes more than seven revolutions, check for errors at every revolution after your reach seven.  Do not let go of the spindle because you will need to check for errors in the reverse. Follow the same error-checking procedure, but in reverse. Check the measurement at each of the same points, so for the first five revolutions you will stop at the half revolution to measure. Then check the measurement at the 1/10 marks for the remaining two revolutions. Displace the spindle five times using the same surface. Move the spindle quickly for some measurements and slowly for others. Write down each of the five measurements to check for deviations. Because you’re measuring the same surface repeatedly, each measurement should come out the same if your dial indicator is ready to use. If your dial indicator is showing errors, adjust the outer face and clean the spindle. Dust can accumulate on the spindle and cause issues with taking measurements. Repeat the calibration process until there are no errors.


Mount your horse. Put your feet in the stirrups and your hands on the reins. Follow your instructor’s directions.

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Find a mounting block; it’s hard to get on a horse from the ground, especially your first time riding. Stand to the left of your horse. Put the reins over your horse’s head; hold them with your left hand and grab a chunk of mane, too. Remember, horses don't have nerves in the area of their mane so you can't hurt them by holding onto it. Stand facing your horse, and put your left foot in the stirrup. Stand up off of your left foot and swing your right leg around. Try not to land on the horse’s back too hard. Put your right foot in the stirrup, and take the reins in both hands.get on the normal way. Make sure that the balls of your feet are in the stirrups. You should put your heels down throughout your ride to provide stability and balance. You should also make sure that your reins are not twisted; they should be in a straight line from your horse’s bit into your hands. Your instructor can also help you adjust your stirrups to make them longer or shorter. If you are riding a horse for the first time, you should definitely have an adult with you to supervise you. Whether you’re taking a riding lesson or going for a pony ride on a friend’s horse, you should always follow the directions of your instructor.  Make sure that you can hear your instructor, even from across the ring. Be sure to tell your instructor if you feel nervous, uncomfortable, or scared. This is normal, and your instructor can help you get over your fears. When you’re done riding, you will probably be asked to walk your horse for 10-15 minutes until it cools down. When its neck is about the same as the air temperature, you can dismount.


Mount your tree.

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The tree can be mounted on a rock, a candle holder or decorative plate, using hot glue. After the tree is securely mounted, separate the branches of your tree. It can now be placed on display or used as a gift.


Move 1 hand away to see if the ukulele stays in place. Keep your elbow at a right angle. Practice fingering the chords. Relax if you start to cramp.

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Try it first with your fretting hand and then with your strumming hand. You should sit in a chair to do this. If the ukulele slips, you need to hold it tighter. If it stays put, you're holding it correctly. Always have at least one hand on the ukulele. Only let go of one hand at a time. If the ukulele starts to slip, check your elbow position to see if it is causing the problem. Your strumming elbow should always be held at a 90-degree angle. Avoid pressing either elbow too close to your body. You should be able to comfortably reach all chords while holding the ukulele. Try playing a few simple chords. If your hands feel tired after a few minutes or if the tone is muted, you may be gripping the neck too tightly. You should never have to stretch or strain to reach a chord or to strum. If you do, adjust where you place your hands on the neck or body of the ukulele. If your hands, arms, or wrists start aching after a few minutes, you may be too tense. Check that your wrists are straight. Put down the ukulele to help you release any tension in your shoulders, arms, or neck. Try again once you are loose and relaxed. If you feel any pain or discomfort, your body is trying to tell you something! You can develop wrist strain if you are not holding the ukulele properly, so always adjust your position if you feel tense, achy, or uncomfortable.


Move any food items that are blocking airflow to the defrost drain in the freezer. Empty the freezer and expose the drain if the fridge still leaks after 2-3 days. Unplug the fridge and squirt hot tap water down the defrost drain. Check the fridge’s drain pan several times for excess water accumulation. Find the drain line and check valve behind the fridge if the problem isn’t fixed. Clean out and replace, if needed, the check valve and/or drain line.

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Practically every refrigerator model has a defrost drain located along the bottom of the back wall of the freezer compartment. It may be shielded by a piece of plastic to prevent debris from falling in, but it’s usually easy to locate. If you have a lot of frozen food items covering or blocking in the drain, do some rearranging to improve the airflow.  Create an open column from the drain to the ceiling, and an open path from the back to the front of the ceiling. Proper airflow helps prevent the drain line from freezing up. Consult the product manual if you need help finding the defrost drain. If you’re still getting water puddles 2-3 days after improving the airflow to the defrost drain, empty the freezer completely and move everything to ice chests. Then, pull off the plastic cap (if your model has one) that covers the defrost drain. Don’t worry about emptying the main refrigerator compartment at this point. The food in there will stay at a safe temperature for 4 hours without power. After you unplug the fridge, fill a cup with hot tap water, then draw some of it up into a turkey baster—which is a long plastic bulb syringe that typically holds around 2  fl oz (59 ml) of liquid. Put the tip of the baster into the drain opening and squeeze the hot water down the drain. Repeat 1-2 more times, then refill the freezer compartment with your food and plug the appliance back in.  The hot water should melt any ice in the drain line and break loose any minor clogs. Look for a turkey baster at any kitchen supply store or online. The water from the baster will end up in the drain pan under the fridge. Due to the added water, you should check and empty (as needed) the drain pan 1-2 times per day over the next 2-3 days. Pop the cover off the grille at the bottom of the fridge, slide out the pan, and empty it into the sink if it’s more than one-third full.  If you don’t see excess water in the drain pan, the drain line must still be clogged, in which case you should move on to the next step—pulling out the fridge. Use...


Move any items you do not want exposed to paint. Lay down newspaper in the work space. Make sure you and your child are wearing paint friendly clothing. Choose child safe paint. Set up paper or canvas. Provide paint brushes and a mixing palette.

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If you are setting up a work space for painting in a main area of your home, you may want to move out any items that you do not want to see painted on. Children will often get lost in their creativity and this may mean trying to paint on every surface or item available, or getting messy with paint and not paying attention to where it lands. Rugs, couches, chairs, and anything made of fabric should be covered or moved, as it can be difficult to get paint out of these items. Good work areas for painting with children include garages, basements, and outdoor patios. These are often areas with lots of empty space for painting and getting messy. Get the work space/painting area ready by putting down newspapers or other paper on surfaces where you know your child will be painting. You can also tape down garbage bags to tables and chairs if you really want to protect your furniture from any paint splashes. Some parents suggest setting up a small easel for your child to paint on. You can buy child sized easels at your local toy store or create your own using an easel stand and a piece of plywood. You can then attach a piece of paper to the easel or prop up canvas on the easel for your child to paint on. You should dress your child in paint friendly clothing, such as an old t-shirt and pants, and tie up her hair if necessary so it does not get in the paint. It's a good idea for you to also change into paint friendly clothing so you can assist your child as she paints and not worry about ruining your clothing. If you are painting with a child under 12 years old, you should only be using paint that conforms to ASTM D-4236. This specification means the paints are not hazardous to children and safe for children to handle. Child friendly paint will have this specification printed on the label. Try to get at least four to five colors of paint to give your child some choices when it comes to mixing colors. Start with the primary colors (red, yellow, blue) as well as some secondary colors (green, orange, purple) so your child...


Move around when you're not supposed to. Annoy other students. Text on your cellphone. Break specific classroom rules. Fake some bodily functions.

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If you want to do a little more than just be a general nuisance in class, acting out in goofy ways can get you a couple of detentions, when done properly. Here are some ways to get up and disrupt class physically:  Wait until everything is silent. Get up and start doing press-ups. Do it until you get to twenty, and then roll over and start doing sit ups. If you do it making as much noise as possible, then before you get to five press-ups the teacher will ask what you are doing. That's your cue to say, "Well, I don't want to look like you, do I?" Sit on your chair upside down. Make sure your head is where your legs should be and your thighs are stood up where your upper body would be and your legs are dangling down the back of the chair. Walk out of class. If the teacher asks why, just say you were thirsty or you forgot a pencil from your locker. If you really want to get your teacher mad, say you're leaving because you're bored. Do the exact opposite of what the teacher says. If she says to turn in your papers, keep it under your chair. Be tardy as often as possible. After a few times, you'll get a detention. Put your head down and try to fall asleep in class. Snore loudly. Don't get up when your teacher calls on you. You don't have to just annoy your teacher. If you're bothering other students, they might tell on you, and you'll end up in detention. Try poking them, throwing things at them, or starting pointless conversations with them. Here are some other ideas:  Pass notes around, or better yet, throw them at random people, including the teacher. Avoid making other people look guilty so that the teacher can tell it is you. Throw pencils or pens. Shoot spitballs at random people. Yell "DUCK AND COVER!" and shoot a whole bunch at once. Hit the teacher as often as possible, if you're daring, but this could merit suspension. Set up folders around your desk. When the teacher asks, say "I'm afraid someone will cheat!" For no reason, duck low and do an air-raid-siren sound. Then point at your teacher and say,...


Move around. Find a new way to sit. Wiggle your toes. Change your shoes. Focus on your breathing. Calm down. Change your sleeping position.

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Feeling like your foot is "asleep" is a common sensation. It's also a feeling that most people would like to avoid. Typically, parasthesia occurs when there is a lack of movement in that body part. To keep your feet from falling asleep, make sure to move them regularly.  When your nerves are compressed, they can't send normal messages to your brain. That's why you lose feeling in your feet during parasthesia. Try rotating your ankles in gentle circles to increase blood flow to your feet. You can also gently flex your feet forwards and backwards. Sitting "cross-legged" is comfortable for many people. You might find yourself sitting with one or both feet tucked under your body, especially if you are sitting on the floor. While sitting that way may be comfortable for you, it is also one of the most common reasons that feet fall asleep. To avoid nerve compression, try not to tuck your feet underneath you when you sit. Instead, make sure your feet are free to move around, and do not let your body weight press down on them.  It's a good idea to stand up at least once an hour. Walking around is good for your overall health, too. Try setting a reminder on your phone so that you make sure to get out of your seat even when you're at work. It is quite common to compress your nerves that run through the buttocks and back of the leg to the feet. Avoid sitting on a thick wallet on one side. Try to sit with your legs at a 90 degree angle. Avoid sitting in a position where the back of your thighs dig into the chair. Sit at a 90 degree angle, or use a stepper to place your feet. One of the easiest and most effective ways to keep your feet from falling asleep is to move your toes around periodically. You can do this while you're sitting or lying down. For example, if you are watching tv, get in the habit of wiggling your toes during commercials.  You can also wiggle your toes while you are standing. Have you ever had your feet fall asleep while you're waiting in a long line? Next time you find yourself in that situation, try...


Move bulky food items away from the cooling mechanisms. Avoid over-filling your fridge and freezer. Clean off the vents every 6 months to ensure proper air circulation. Wash out the inside of your fridge about twice a year. Vacuum the condenser coils at the back of your fridge twice a year.

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While your fridge or freezer is running, place your hand inside to locate the cold air source. This is usually along the back wall of the appliance. If this area is blocked by a dense arrangement of food items, move these out of the way. Leave some open space around the cooling mechanism so that the air can flow around. Don’t block any of the vents with bulky freezer boxes or bags. Keep these items further away from the sides and walls of your appliance. An overstuffed appliance will restrict the airflow and may trap cold air in certain pockets, which could result in frosty patches. Store items in the designated drawers and spots, with fruits in the crisping drawers, meat in the meat drawers, butter in the butter tray, and condiments in the narrow shelves inside the door. Use fridge organizers and bins to keep your appliance organized and clutter-free. Take a few minutes each week to check your fridge for old or expired items. Toss these out as soon as they go bad to make space for fresh foods. Dirty, clogged vents can lead to airflow issues and ice buildup. About twice a year, unscrew the vents from the inside of your refrigerator. Use a bristle brush, warm water, and mild dish soap to scrub away any dust, dirt, and food residue. Dry them off completely before replacing them. Shut off your appliance and transfer perishable foods to a cooler before you disassemble the vents. Before cleaning your fridge, take everything out of your fridge and store the perishable items in a cooler temporarily. Use a dry sheet of paper towel to brush out any crumbs and food residue. Follow up by scrubbing down the shelves and insides using a warm, soapy cleaning cloth. Dry off the surfaces before returning all of your food items. If you notice any spills or crumbs, wipe these up as soon as possible so they don’t form ice crystals. Turn off your fridge and stash the perishable items in coolers. Pull out your appliance far enough from the wall so that you can easily access the back. Use a soft bristle brush attachment to vacuum...


Move down into the space between the recipient’s shoulder blades. Massage the shoulder blades themselves with a light touch. Use both hands to target spots that need more attention. Knead the muscles of the neck Squeeze the outer shoulders from the sides.

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After massaging the tops of the trapezius muscles, begin lowering your hands steadily, tracing the inner grooves of the shoulder blades (also known as the scapula) with your thumbs. Follow along the spine as you palpate the interior of the blades from top to bottom.  While your thumbs are busy, stretch your remaining fingers flat against your recipient’s upper back and use them to brace yourself. Turning your wrists inward with each movement will make it easier to probe down deep into those hard-to-reach spots. Glide the pads of your thumbs over the flat part of the shoulder blades in wide, sweeping circles. Make sure you apply minimal pressure, as the scapula are surrounded by sensitive connective tissue. Go over every part of the blade before moving on.   Alternatively, you can try stroking your fingers or thumbs upward over the lattice of muscles from the bottom.  The surface of the shoulder blades are criss-crossed with small muscles that assist in retracting the arms. When rubbed just right, this region can be extremely pleasurable. If your recipient asks you to really dig into a particular area, using both hands will allow you to double the amount of pressure you generate. Place your hands side-by-side and proceed to massage the way your normally would, pinching, pulling, and lifting your hands as a single unit.  To pinpoint single spots within the muscle, use the fingertips of your opposite hand to reinforce the pressure created by your thumb. You’ll have quite a bit more leverage with two hands, so try not to overdo it. Get a feel for your recipient’s preferred level of pressure and adjust your technique accordingly. . Make a “C” shape with your hand the way you did when massaging the trapezius muscles. Squeeze the long extensor muscles on the sides of the neck between your thumb and fingers as you slowly pull your hand back and down with a circular motion, then release and repeat. You can do this all the way up to the base of the skull.  To get a sense of what your grip on the neck should feel like,...


Move everything out of the area. Scrub away oil spills and other dirty areas. Use a concrete cleaner to prepare the concrete for the sealer. Rinse the cleaner off. Make sure the floor has dried completely before moving on. Use concrete repair caulk on any cracks.

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Take all the furniture and and miscellaneous items out of the room and stack them somewhere else. Find a temporary home for them, as the process of sealing the concrete can take up to a week. You don't want to be moving things around once you get started sealing. Plus, you want to be able to clean the whole floor at once. If you're sealing a garage, you may even want to do it before you move into a new home. Pour mineral spirits on grease spills and rub them down with a scrubbing brush. Use paper towels to wipe up the excess grease and cleaner. Alternatively, try a cleaner like trisodium phosphate or any pre-paint cleaner to scrub down the grease spills with a scrubbing brush. If you don't get the grease and dirt up, the sealer won't adhere properly. With some grease cleaners, you'll pour the cleaner on the grease stain and use a trowel to spread it over the whole stain. Then, let it dry. It will become a powder you can sweep up.  Make sure to wipe up any grease and cleaner residue with towels. Purchase a phosphoric acid masonry cleaner or another type of concrete cleaner. Spray or pour the cleaner onto the floor, and then use a scrubbing broom with a long handle to rub it into the floor. Scrub the floor down thoroughly with the cleaner, working in batches across the room. You can purchase a kit for redoing your floors, and often it will come with a concrete cleaner. Use a hose to completely rinse the whole floor. If it has a slight incline, make sure to work from the top down. Otherwise, start at one end and work your way out. If you're inside, work towards a door. Some people prefer to use a power washer for this process. You can squeegee the water off the floor to help speed up the process, but you still may want to wait up to 24 hours to let it dry. If you have cracks on your floor, now is a good time to fill them in. Use the tube to squeeze the caulk into the crack. Use enough caulk to fill the crack. Run a trowel over the top to smooth it out. Let the caulk dry completely before moving on. Check the...


Move forward Get back to your daily routine at your own pace. Be prepared for "anniversary reactions". Find a support group to talk about your feelings with others. Talk to a counselor if you feel intense grief or sadness that won't go away.

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gradually, on your own timeline. When you're ready, you'll need to accept that your loved one will only live on in your heart and memories. There is no "right" amount of time to grieve; it’s different with every person, and with every loss. So, move on when you are ready. Remember that you are not alone, and you are stronger than you think. It will be hard getting over your loved one, but you need too, in order to move forward. Just always keep them in your heart.  The "stages of grief" are guidelines for emotions felt commonly after a death. They are not, however a series of boxes that you must check off, and new research shows that they may not exist at all. This could make you feel like you aren't actually guilty, make you feel like you're lying to yourself, anyway. Talk to your boss, teacher, and family about how you are feeling as you readjust to life after the death. Everyone moves at different paces, but everyone needs to get back into the swing of normal life at some point. Some days will be more difficult than others, but being honest with the people around you as you restart the daily grind will help you navigate the "real" world again. While it can be difficult to face the idea of returning to your normal routine, doing so can be comforting and help you feel less overwhelmed in the long run. Try to keep up with at least some of the things you normally do, even if you have to ease back into your regular routine gradually. These triggered memories of your lost loved one may last for years. This is not a bad or unnatural response. Rather, it is a reminder of how special the person was in your life. Birthdays, holidays, anniversaries, and special days may be hard to cope with for the rest of your life, but don't feel like you are "stunted" because you can't get over them. Even sights and smells can trigger memories of a lost loved one. There are, however, ways to cope:  Start a new tradition on that day, potentially tied to their memory (like visiting the grave site). Be prepared with a distraction....


Move forward slowly.

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Seduction is all about maintaining momentum. Moving too fast can make a person uncomfortable or turned off. As you proceed, do so slowly. Pay attention to what a woman wants and what pleases her. Try to be in tune with her needs so the experience is mutually pleasurable experience. Occasionally stop and ask if something feels good and pay close attention to how she responds.


Move from side to side. Turn it around. Touch the floor. Do the slow grind.

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You don't have to dance right in front of the guy the whole time -- that can get boring, and you may actually want to see your dance partner once in a while. So, you can move over to the left, continuing your circular motion and bent knees motion, while the guy moves to the right, so you can look up and see him. You can switch places and move to the right while he moves to the left, and keep moving back and forth. Turn around to face the guy instead of turning your back to him, and place your arms around his neck. This is called front grinding -- it's more risky and more sexy. Let him put his hands on your hips as you continue to move your waist in a circular motion. Move your hands away from his neck, and up and down his chest. Then, turn back around again. You can even place your fingers in the guy's belt loops for a few seconds. When your back is to the guy, you can move your hands all the way down to the floor or near it, as you raise your butt more and more in the air. This is a more intimate move that is sure to make the guy go crazy -- as long as you have the confidence to pull it off. Don't be intimidated if a slower song comes on at the club. You can still grind more slowly to the music, using the same moves you used to grind to fast-paced music, just at a lower speed. The slow grind is even sexier if you can pull it off. Don't let the guy see that you've been thrown off -- just continue to move to the music without skipping a beat.


Move in closer. Talk about kissing. Ask him to kiss you. Kiss him

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You have to be close to each other to kiss, and the less distance a guy has to travel to kiss you, the easier it is for him to give it a try. So get close. When the moment seems right, put your face close to his and look at him expectantly. You could also try moving in as though you're going to kiss him. If the guy isn't taking your subtle hints, bring up kissing in conversation. If you're watching a movie together and see an on-screen kiss, mention that it's "so romantic" or something to that effect. Alternatively, bring up your first kiss or a silly story about a bad kiss you've had. Then, bring up how much better you've gotten since then. It might be the feeder line he needs to lean in and see for himself. Guys like when their partner is confident and know what they want. If you’re too afraid to move in for the kiss, ask him to do it. Say something like, “Will you kiss me?” You can also ask him if he’d like a kiss, by saying something like, “Can I kiss you?” or “I’d love to kiss you right now. Are you into it?” If he says no, don’t freak out. Stay calm, say, “Okay, no worries,” and change the subject. Rejection happens to everyone at some point, so try not to take it personally! . If you really want to kiss the guy, and you know he’s into you, go ahead and do it! Each person in the equation has the same right to make the first move. Don’t be self-conscious or stress over the situation too much. Just lean in, kiss him, and enjoy it. If you’re not sure if the guy is interested or ready to kiss, you should probably wait until you know for sure.


Move on to commercial cleaners if vinegar and lemon juice don't work. Use a cleaner that contains oxalic acid, such as Singerman's or F9 BARC. Use Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) to remove persistent rust from cement. Scrub the surface with a stiff bristled nylon brush and rinse after the cleaner sets in. Carefully consider hydrochloric acid to remove any stain. Use a pressure washer for hard to reach or tough stains.

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For big, persistent stains you'll need to move on to the heavy-duty cleaners. Rinse off the concrete and let it dry before applying any of the following chemicals, and be sure to follow safety precautions:  Work in a well-ventilated area. Wear gloves and eye protection. Stick to long sleeved shirts and pants to protect your skin. These sprays are often used to scrub sinks without scratching them, and they will quickly lift up rust stains.  They often come in liquid or powder form. Spray or sprinkle the cleaner on the rusted surface. If the cleaner is made of powder, wet it with water. Allow the mixture to sit for several minutes before continuing. Mix 1/2 cup (118.29 ml) of TSP with 1/2 gallon (1.89 L) of hot water. TSP can be purchased at a home improvement store, and needs to be mixed at home.  Put on gloves before handling TSP. Pour the mixture on the rusted surface. Allow the mixture to sit for 15 to 20 minutes. Just like with your gentle stains, do not use metal bristles, as this can remove the top paste layer in the cement. Instead, us a stiff nylon brush and work in circles to lift up the stain. Rinse away all the cleaner when you're done, taking care to remove all of it. If left on the concrete for too long it may cause discoloration. Hydrochloric acid, in some tests, is the most effective way to remove rust stains. However, left too long to soak this acid can tint your concrete blue, so you need to act quickly. Dilute the acid a bit with 1 cup of water for 2 cups of acid to give yourself more time and avoid re-coloring your surface; always mix acid to water to avoid a violent reaction.  Let the acid soak into the stain for 5-10 minutes. Scrub away the rust stain, working quickly. Rinse the surface thoroughly with water. Repeat as needed. If you're having trouble getting to a stain, or can't scrub any harder, leave your acid on the stain for 10 minutes and set up a pressure water. The high-powered hose not only rinses away all the acid for you, it puts concentrated force on the stain to easily lift it...


Move potted plants inside and leave them in direct sunlight. Cover outdoor plants at night with blankets or row covers. Pull up the entire tomato plant, including its roots, and move it inside. Hang the tomato plant in a cool basement or cellar.

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Tomatoes stop ripening when the temperature gets cold. If the weather is getting cold and your tomato plants are potted, then finishing off the ripening process is easy. Just pick up your plants and move them inside where it’s warmer. Leave them near a window in direct sunlight. The warmer temperature and sunlight help the tomatoes continue ripening. Then pick tomatoes as they ripen and turn red. Tomato plants grow best when the temperature is around 70 °F (21 °C), so make sure your home temperature is near that. If your tomato plants aren’t potted and the season is ending, then you have to pick them or cover them until they ripen. Using a blanket or row cover helps ripen your plants in the last few days before the weather gets cold. Cover the entire tomato plant and make sure no parts are sticking out. Then check them every day and pick the ripe ones.  Row covers are a better choice for this method because they’re designed to keep plants warm. Buy them at garden stores or online. Take the covering off during the day so the plants get sunlight. This method also works if there is an unexpected early frost, but the weather is supposed to warm up afterward. If the weather has turned and your tomatoes still aren't ripe, dig up the entire plant and let it continue ripening inside. Start by digging around the plant roots with a gardening shovel. Then work the plant out of the ground, roots and all.  Shake off all the dirt and debris from the plant so it doesn’t make a mess in your home. If any tomatoes fall off while you’re pulling the plant up, ripen them in a bag or box. These locations have a better environment for ripening tomatoes when they’re still on the vine. There are several ways to hang the plants upside down. Use one that works best for you. Continue monitoring the tomatoes and pick them as they ripen.  For the simplest solution, tie a string to a nail in your ceiling rafter. Then tie the string around the base of the plant and leave it hanging upside down. You can also punch a hole in the bottom of a...


Move rarely used appliances to a cabinet. Use the top of the refrigerator for more storage. Trade your knife block for a magnetic knife strip. Install a towel bar or a rack on the side of the countertop.

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Your counter may store the food processor, waffle iron, and mixing bowl, but it is unlikely that you use these items daily. Clear out some cabinet or pantry space for these large countertop appliances. Leave them in storage except for when you are using them. Put them back as soon as you finish with them. If you don’t have much cabinet space, you may have to get more creative. Put some things in a hall closet or even a bedroom closet, if you know you don’t use them often. If the top of your refrigerator is not covered by cabinets, it’s a great place for extra storage. Use it for items that you use often but not daily. Store small appliances that don’t fit in the cabinets or your spice rack that’s only for fancy dinners on top of the fridge.  The size of your fridge limits how easy it is to store things on top of it. For tall fridges, store things you only rarely need because you can pull a footstool up to it when necessary. Store items like soda or juices on top of the fridge so you can easily restock when you run out. If you are tall enough to reach, move your microwave to the top of the fridge to free up a big section of your counter. A nice big set of knives is often displayed with a knife block, but this takes up valuable counter space, too. Install a magnetic knife strip over the section of counter where you most often use the knives. The wall strip uses space that is otherwise wasted. It also clears up another small section of your counter. A visible end of the countertop is a rarely used part of the counter, but it gives you many options. A towel rack with S-hooks can hang up pots and pans or utensils. A small wooden rack can store spices, oven mitts, or extra stuff that ends up on the counter. If you screw a bar or rack into the side of the counter or cabinets, be sure the screws go into a sturdy part of the cabinet.


Move slowly when reaching for your hermit crab. Pick the shell up from the back. Open the palm of your other hand underneath him while continuing to hold the shell from the back. Keep all of your fingers touching each other. Place your hermit crab on your hand, and let go of his shell. Feed your crab.

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Always make sure to move very slowly when trying to handle a hermit crab. Hermit crabs have compound eyes and can detect movement very well. If you move quickly, they’ll definitely see you and they’ll certainly be startled and will try to run away or defend themselves. When you go to pick up your crab, make sure to pick him up from the back. If you try to pick him up from the front, the crab might pinch you with his claws. The initial moment when you pick up the crab is key, so don’t botch this up, and don’t pick him up from the front of the shell or try to touch his head, claws, or body. After you’ve picked up the crab, hold him by the back of the shell then outstretch the palm of your other hand underneath the crab’s walking legs. The reason that you outstretch your hand is so the crab has somewhere to rest his legs, and so he’s not panicking and trying to grab onto to your dominant hand and pinch you.  Flatten your other hand underneath the crab. Make sure that your hand is completely flat and that none of your skin or fingers are vulnerable to getting pinched by the crab. If he tries to pinch you, slowly raise him up with your other hand just a couple of inches, and then try to lower him again. Make sure you do this just a couple of inches from the ground of his terrarium or above a table. If you drop him, you don’t want to drop him more than an inch or two. Keeping all of your fingers together will prevent the hermit crab from pinching you with his claws. It will also provide a large, flat area where the crab can stand up. In addition, your crab will feel safer if there is a solid surface beneath him. Once you’ve got the crab to rest his legs on your hand, let him go and allow him to move around on your hand. After being released on your hand, your crab should become more relaxed.  Make sure your hand is only a few inches off of a table or the floor. Don’t be afraid to let your crab move around freely on your hand. Try to relax and keep a steady hand. If your crab gets close to falling off your hand,...


Move the cactus to a darker location if it’s getting bleached. Move the plant to a brighter location if it’s reaching or thinning. Address common cactus pests.

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Some cactus varieties do better with indirect sunlight. If your cactus is turning white, yellowing, or spots are turning orange, it likely means the plant is getting too much sun. Move the cactus to a window that gets less direct sun. A cactus that isn't getting enough light may start to grow toward the light, causing distorted or unbalanced growth. Another symptom is a thinning top. Move the cactus to a window that gets more direct sunlight.  To prevent scorching, move a cactus to a brighter location gradually, by moving it closer to the light over a period of a few days. There are a few insects that can be problematic when you're growing cacti, including mealy bugs, scale, and spider mites. To get rid of these pests, rinse or mist the cactus with water to wash away the pests. Insecticides are not often useful at treating these problems. Mealy bugs can be identified by the fuzzy patches they create on the plants, scale looks like raised brown spots, and spider mites will create whitish webs.


Move the chicks to their outdoor coop. Provide food and water. Clean the coop regularly. Play with the chickens. Collect eggs regularly.

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When the chicks are at least two months old or have grown their wing feathers, they will be ready to move outside to their larger coop. Ready-made coops can be purchased from farm supply stores, or you can build your own. A coop should provide shelter from inclement weather, protection from predators, and a cozy place to sleep. Make sure it has the following features:  An elevated, enclosed roost. The coop should have a place for the hens to sleep comfortably several feet from the ground. Chickens naturally prefer to roost off of the ground when they sleep, since this protects them from predators. Nesting boxes. In the roosting area, make sure each chicken has a separate box about 10 inches wide in which to lay its eggs. Line the boxes with straw or wood shavings. Larger nesting boxes can fit more than one chicken. Space for the chickens to run. Chickens are happiest when they have space to run around and forage. The coop should have a door leading to an outside area that's at least four by eight feet for three to five chickens. The chickens will be safest if the area is fenced on both sides an overhead (to protect from hawks). The holes in the fencing should be no larger than 1 inch squared. Now that the chickens are over two months old, start buying "laying mash" (also called "poultry pellet") so they have the nutrients they need to lay eggs. It's available at the farm supply store. You can feed older chickens organic kitchen leftovers, fruits and vegetables, and garden weeds as well. Put the feed in a chicken feeder that you clean out once every week and a half.  Chickens like raw fruit and vegetables of all kinds, cooked pasta, cooked rice, cooked beans, and any other type of grain. Don't feed them food that's high in fat or salt. Put a bowl of sand or finely crushed eggshells in the coop. The chickens use it to digest their food, since they don't have teeth to grind it up. Eggshells also provide extra calcium. Provide water in a chicken waterer. In the winter, you may need to use a heated waterer to...


Move the conversation away from the classroom. Have a friendly, approachable demeanor. Find out what she’s interested in. Share your interests with her. Get to know her friends.

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Since you know you have at least your class in common, that’s a great way to start getting to know each other — by talking about the work, the teacher, your classmates, etc. But over time, you want to get to know other parts of each other, too, so talk about things that have nothing to do with class, or even school. Don’t try to hard to be “cool.” What you think looks “cool” might come off as distant or condescending. It’s much easier for a girl to talk to a guy who’s just being himself — open and honest.  Smile and laugh easily — girls love guys who enjoy themselves. Face your body toward her when you’re speaking to her. Don’t be afraid to make eye contact with her when you’re talking. Once you’ve broken the ice, you want to get to know each other. Try to find out what she’s interested in. Ask what her favorite classes are, whether she does any after-school activities, and what she likes to do in her spare time.  Try to steer conversations toward topics that interest her. This will make her look forward to talking to you, since she’ll know you enjoy listening to her talk about something she loves. You want her to get to know you, too, so talk about the things that are important to you. If you just let her talk about herself all the time, then eventually, you’ll stop liking her because you’ll feel like the friendship is all about her. It’s important to maintain a balance, so you’re both sharing parts of your life with each other equally.  Be open and honest. Don’t just talk about the things you think she wants to hear about — talk about the things that are actually important to you. Use your discretion. There are some things that you shouldn’t talk about with someone you don’t know very well, so start with topics that are harmless and light. Try to keep a balance between how much you talk and how much she talks. The best way to spend time with someone is to have friends in common with her. Hanging out in a group with mutual friends will be less nerve-wracking than talking to each other one-on-one, and you’ll...


Move the furniture and appliances and clean underneath them. Wipe down the baseboards. Clean carpets and rugs with a vacuum. Sweep and mop hard floors. Return everything to its place.

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Now that you've done all this work to clean an entire room, don't leave dust bunnies lurking under your furniture. If you can, slide the furniture out of the way and vacuum or sweep underneath it. If not, use an extension arm on your vacuum and clean as far underneath each piece as you're able. It may help to have another person available if you have a lot of heavy furniture. Chances are, dust will have settled along the trim at the bottom of your walls. To remove that dust, go over the baseboards with a damp microfiber cloth, working all the way around the room. If the baseboards are really dirty, spray a cloth with an all-purpose cleaner and wipe them down with that. Even if you've already shaken out the rugs, there may still be dust embedded deep in the fibers. Also, any carpets in the room will need to be vacuumed thoroughly to remove any dust that fell while you were cleaning. You can sweep your carpets and rugs if you don't have a vacuum, but this will not be as effective at removing dust. To avoid stirring dust back into the air, gently go over the floors with a broom. Then, mop the floors to pick up any dust that's been left behind. As the name suggests, a dust mop is best for this task, since there's more surface area to trap dust. However, you can use any mop that you have available. Now that you've cleaned your room from top to bottom, the only thing left to do is to put everything back in order. Move any furniture back into its place, replace your rugs, curtains, and other linens, and place small objects back onto their shelves. Continue this process for each room in your home. Then, sit back and enjoy your dust-free environment!


Move the goldfish close to an air bubbler or an air stone. Use an air pipe. Place the de-chlorinated water in the container. Put your fish in the container. Turn on the pure oxygen and let oxygen into the water. Use the cling wrap to seal the container. Keep your fish in the container for at least two hours.

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Most aquariums have an air stone, which helps to regulate the water temperature in the tank and to aerate the water. If you have an air stone or an air bubbler, use your hand to move your goldfish close to the air source. This will help to give your fish more oxygen and hopefully revive your fish. If you do not have access to an air stone, you can continue to massage the fish’s underbelly in the tank water until he starts to revive, or go purchase an air stone for the fish. Some goldfish owners will do a more extensive revival procedure that uses clean de-chlorinated water, a pure oxygen container, and an air pipe. This can be done if your fish is still alive, but appears lethargic and slow moving. To perform serious CPR on your fish, go to your local hardware store and get the following materials:  An air stone. An air pipe. A pure oxygen container. A large plastic container, big enough for your fish. Plastic cling wrap. Adhesive tape. You will also need access to clean, de-chlorinated water. De-chlorinated water does not contain chlorine or chloramine, and will prevent the build up of ammonia in your fish, which could lead to illness and death. Use enough de-chlorinated water to fill the container half way. To de-chlorinate water, you will need to add a chemical additive called dechlorinator into the tap water. You can buy dechlorinator for under $10 at your local pet store. Follow the instructions on the label to determine how many drops of dechlorinator you will need to add to a certain amount of water. You will then need to connect the air stone to the oxygen container so it can pump pure oxygen into the water. Once it is connected, place the air stone into the container and make sure it sits at the bottom of the container, in the water. Avoid over oxygenating the water by pumping too much oxygen into the air stone. There should be a steady stream of small air bubbles coming out of the air stone.  During the first five minutes, the air should come out strong and steady into the water. After five minutes,...


Move the hatchlings to a separate tank. Feed your clownfish hatchlings. Change 20-50% of the water in their tank daily. Expect some of your fry to not make it through the transition from a fry to a fish. Watch as your fry turn into juvenile fish.

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Some breeders move the eggs before they hatch but most wait until the hatchlings come out of their eggs, as moving the hatchlings is easier. Either way, you will need to raise the fry in a separate aquarium as clownfish are known to eat their own eggs and hatchlings. Be sure to get the extra tank ready ahead of time. While in the egg sack, the embryos use energy from the yoke to survive, but once they emerge, the hatchlings will need food fast!  Clownfish hatchlings should be fed live rotifers, which are microscopic aquatic animals. These can sometimes be found at an aquarium store but you should check with your's to make sure. Many clownfish breeders find it easier to breed rotifers for their hatchlings to eat, than it is to find them at an aquarium store. Make sure you have a steady supply of them before beginning the breeding process, otherwise your hatchlings will die at this stage. This is important in order to keep the water clean but it also assures that the water is clear enough for the hatchlings to see the rotifers they need to eat. One of the hardest transitions in the life of a clownfish is when they move from their larval stage to being a juvenile clownfish. To give them a good shot at developing, transition their food from rotifers to live brine shrimp so that they can get enough energy to grow rapidly. You can also add nutrients to the water, such as those sold for keep saltwater reef tanks healthy. If the fish make it through the transition, you should start seeing the distinctive color of the clownfish develop on your fish. They should continue to grow rapidly, so make sure you continue to give them enough food and to keep their water clear and clean.


Move the key out of the way if it is in the fob. Unscrew the back of the key fob. Twist a coin in the side slot if the fob has one. Pry the cover off if it doesn’t have a slot.

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This depends on what kind of fob you have. Car key fobs for example typically hold the key when it is not in use. You have to open the key, although in some fobs the key is removable. Either slide the key out or spring it away from the fob.  A fob with a sliding key has a small button on the top. Hold the button down while pulling on the key to remove it. For a fob with a springing key, press the spring button on the fob or pull the key forward to get it out of the way. Flip the key fob over and look for at least 1 screw holding in the plastic. These screws are tiny, so you will need a small Phillips head screwdriver. Rotate the screw counterclockwise to remove it. Work slowly to avoid stripping the screw. Set the screw aside in a safe spot, such as inside a resealable bag or small cup, to avoid losing it. Many, but not all, fobs have a small indentation on the side. Use a small coin or a flat head screwdriver. Push the end into the slot, then turn the object to separate the fob’s halves. Your fob will have a seam around the side edges. This is where the fob’s halves meet. Push the tip of a flat head screwdriver into the seam to separate the halves. Then, lift the screwdriver to pry the cover off. Prying a stuck cover is easier if you use the screwdriver on all of the fob’s sides. Work the blade into the seam in a few different spots to separate the halves.


Move the litter box to the right location. Play with toys near the litter box. Keep the litter box clean. Switch to new litter gradually. Troubleshoot new litter boxes. Clean up urine and feces with an enzymatic cleaner. Make soiled areas less appealing. Place litter boxes in the problem areas. Use your cat's preference to your advantage.

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Cats may stop using the litter box after a scary experience in the area, such as a loud noise or harassment by another pet. They may also dislike the spot you chose after moving the litter box, or moving to a new home. Keep the litter box in a quiet, low-traffic spot where the cat can see people coming. Choose a room with at least two exits so the cat doesn't feel cornered.  Keep litter boxes away from food and water bowls. Cats do not like to combine these two areas. Signs that your cat may have had an unpleasant experience in the litter box including running quickly in and out of the litter box, or using an area near the litter box. Try moving the box to a new room if you notice this. Keep at least one litter box on every floor of a multistory home. Play with your cat in the same general area as the litter box. Leave toys (but not food) in the room so the cat spends time there and develops positive associations. You can bring the cat to the litter box to investigate on its own, but do not drop it inside or reward it with treats for using it. These tactics can backfire by making the cat uncomfortable or afraid. Unlike dogs, cats should choose the litter box on their own, especially if they used one in the past. If your cat perches on the edge of the box or eliminates right next to it, the box might be too dirty for it. Remove clumps and top up with fresh litter at least once a day, preferably twice. Rinse the litter box once a week with baking soda or unscented soap.  If you use non-clumping litter, change the whole box every couple days to prevent odor build up, which can drive away the cat.  Do not clean the litter box with scented products. Do not use a disinfectant unless it is specifically made for litter boxes, as many of them contain chemicals toxic to cats. If you bought a different kind of litter, introduce it slowly. Mix a little of it in with the old type, and gradually increase the proportion each time you change the litter box. Cats usually find it easier to adjust to unscented litter with a...


Move the mother. Bring your molly fry home. Acclimate the fry. Let the fry out. Watch the fry.

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If your fry will come from a live bearer, move the mother before she gives birth. You will know when a female molly is preparing to give birth by watching the swell of her abdomen as well as by observing the spots near her anal fin, which will darken as the delivery date nears. Adults, especially males, may feed on newborn fry, so it is imperative to move the mother into the nursery tank before the fry are born. If you are getting your fry from a store, breeder, or another molly fish enthusiast, be prepared to pick them up quickly after birth. Make sure the fry are sealed in a plastic bag with warm water and room enough for the fry to move around. Try to get your fry home as fast as possible. You want to minimize the amount of stress on your fry, so avoid taking long routes home or stopping while you still have the fry in transit. If you are getting your fry from elsewhere, set aside around 15 minutes to acclimate your fry. Allow the bag holding the fry to float in your nursery tank for at least 15 minutes in order to slowly bring the water temperature in the bag up to the temperature in the tank. Introducing your fry into your tank without acclimating them may shock their system and lead to some of the fry dying off. Once the set period has passed, introduce the fry to the tank by gently opening the plastic bag and allowing the fry to swim out. Do not dump the bag into the water, and do not squeeze the fry to get them out. If you are using a breeding trap, you may want to hold the trap right at the surface of the water and gently allow the water to flow out of the plastic bag in order to prevent any fry from escaping into the larger aquarium. Observe the fry after they are introduced into the nursery aquarium. Make sure they are all moving and hiding. If any of the fry did not survive birth or the journey home, use a net to quickly remove them from the aquarium. Observe the mother to make sure she is not acting aggressively toward the newly hatched fry, if they are in the same tank. If so, move the mother...


Move the refrigerator. Ask for help when measuring height. Extend the retractable measuring tape about a foot. Hold the top of the tape against the cabinet. Repeat the measurement. Pick a model that allows for at least one inch of open space.

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To get some of the measurements, you will need to move the refrigerator. When doing so, be sure to remove all the food in the refrigerator. Get at least one strong person to help you.  Do not leave any shelves in the refrigerator. These can be jostled during the moving process. Either take the shelves out and move them separately or use tape to secure them in place. Be careful that the doors do not open when you move the refrigerator. Either take a strap and tie it around the doors or wrap tape around them. When moving a refrigerator, don't lay it on its side. This can cause serious damage to the refrigerator. You might need the assistance of a second person to secure the tap at the top of the space, while you pull it down to the bottom and record the measurement. You might also need the assistance of someone taller than yourself. It is helpful to have a second person around, if possible. Alternatively, hang the metal hook at the top of the tape measure on whatever surface is available near the top of the space. Pull the tape measure down to get your first measurement. Then measure the distance from the top of the space to the overhang from which the tape measure was hanging. Add this distance to the first measure to get the total height. That way, the tape will reach a height that is taller than you. Have a second person pull the measuring tape to the ground. Mark the end point on the tape measure then write the number down on a paper pad with the other measurements. Not only is it possible that you misread the tape measure, it is also possible that your house has settled. In the process, some of the surfaces might become uneven. Repeat the measurement at a different point in the open space. If there is a discrepancy, use the smaller measurement. It is better to have too much space, not enough. Refrigerators require ventilation to work properly. There must be at least one inch of space remaining above the refrigerator.


Move the tree to a display container. Consider adding other features to the container. Place the bonsai on a display stand.

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When you deem the tree's shape to be finished, it's time to move it away from the training container. Beautiful ceramic and wooden containers are available for you to display your bonsai to best effect. Choose one that complements the bonsai style you have created. Be sure to repot it carefully so that the roots are not damaged, and use a container big enough to hold the amount of soil (and nutrients) that are necessary for the tree to stay healthy. Choose a container that is as long as your tree is tall. The thicker the trunk of your tree, the deeper the container should be. While the bonsai should be the star of the show, adding a few additional elements can add to the beauty of your bonsai display. Stones and rocks, shells, and tiny plants can be used to make the tree look as though it is part of a forest or beach scene.  Be sure not to crowd the roots with stones or other objects. Adding some moss is a great way to create an intriguing display. A beautiful bonsai deserves to be displayed like any other work of art. Choose a wooden or metal display stand and place it against a blank wall, so that the bonsai will stand out. Placing it near a window is a good idea since the bonsai will continue to need sunlight while it's on display. Continue watering, fertilizing, and caring for the bonsai, and your work of art will stay alive for many years.


Move them away from the trigger. Give them hot coffee or tea. Get them to a steamy room.

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Asthma attacks can be triggered by chemicals, smoke, mold, pets, sawdust, or other allergens. If it seems like the attack was triggered by something in the environment, lead the person away from the trigger. Keep them away from smoke, dust, and chemical smells – including chlorine, like if you’re in an enclosed pool or hot tub. Take them to an air conditioned space or somewhere with clean air.  If you cannot move the person, have them breathe through a scarf or sleeve to minimize how much irritant they inhale.  Asthma attacks can also happen without a trigger. If their symptoms are not very severe – if they can breathe with only minor difficulty and they are calm – try giving them a cup of a hot, caffeinated beverage. This may help open up their breathing pathways for a short time. Give them one or two cups of coffee or caffeinated tea to drink right away. If possible, bring the person to a bathroom filled with steam. Run a hot shower and close the door so the room steams up, or have them take a hot shower. The heat and steam can loosen mucus in their lungs and help to open their airways.


Move to Alaska. Take a second qualifying step. Take the second step early. Claim Alaskan residency if in the military. Preserve the documents that prove you plan to remain in Alaska indefinitely. Sever connections to a prior domicile. Use your Alaskan residence as your permanent address.

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To become a resident, you need to be physically present in the state, and you must intend to stay in Alaska indefinitely. Mere physical presence is not enough to establish residency. You also need to take an additional action that shows you intend to make Alaska your permanent home. This second step can include:  signing a contract to move household goods to Alaska. (Employer paid moving contracts do not qualify.) being employed in Alaska, as proved by employment records. owning a principal place of residence in Alaska, proved by a home purchase contract or rent receipts. (Employer provided housing does not qualify.) registering to vote in Alaska. registering a motor vehicle in Alaska. If you want to qualify for a PFD, then you must take your second step before January 1 of the year you hope to qualify.  You may register to vote by contacting the Alaska Division of Elections. If registering from within Alaska, you will need to provide a driver’s license, a birth certificate, or some other form of personal identification, such as a passport. If you are registering outside the state, then you will need some document that shows your residency, such as proof of employment in Alaska. To get an identification card, you will need to take the following documents to the DMV: proof of legal name and date of birth (such as a birth certificate); a secondary document that verifies your first (such as an IRS or state tax form); proof of your principal residence, such as a utility bill or rental documents; a Social Security number; and documents related to a name change (if applicable).   Alaska encourages all residents to get an identification card even if they have a driver’s license. ID cards cost $15. Service members must formally claim Alaska as their residency with the military, and the paperwork must be processed by December 31 of the year before your qualifying year.  For example, if you want to qualify as a resident for 2016, your paperwork must go through by December 31, 2015. Service members must also take a...


Move towards your hiding spot. Don't disturb the environment. Enter your hiding spot. Maximize your cover.

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Be careful not to make noise or do anything that might give away where you are going, particularly if you are playing a game. If other players are hiding as well, you may wish to make sure that they don't see where you are going. Be careful with hinges, as they can squeak. You can try to hold the squeaky hinge while opening or closing the door. You'll want to make sure that you don't leave any clues that the area where you are going to hide has been disturbed. Everything should be in the place it was before you hid in that location. You can also disturb the environment as a decoy. For instance, leave a disturbance on the other side of the room so that you can hide next to the door and exit the room when the decoy is investigated. Now that you've been careful not to make noise or leave traces, enter your hiding spot. You may want to position yourself in a non-conventional way in order to present yourself in a different shape than normal. The human eye and brain are very sensitive to shapes, and breaking up your expected "shape" is useful to evade detection. For instance, curl into a fetal position when hiding under a bed next to discarded laundry. Whenever it is possible, you can try to add to your cover as long as it doesn't break the rule regarding disturbing your environment. You can also use accessories to further break up your shape


Move with using the letter keys WASD or the arrow keys. Get a feel for the camera. Climb ladders by moving towards them. Use your Click, Copy, and Delete tools. Set your camera. Click Esc or Leave Game to leave a game. Press the / key to chat.

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W or the up arrow key move you forward, A or the left arrow key moves you to the left, S or the down arrow key move you backward, and D or the right arrow key move you right. The space bar lets you jump. Hold the right mouse button and move the mouse to pan the camera. You can also turn it with left/right using the <, >, or the left/right arrow keys. Most worlds start with ladders already in them. Walk toward a ladder using the W or up arrow key and your character will automatically start climbing up it. This is how you interact with the world you are in. As you move about your world, you’ll encounter objects. Once you have them, you can use your tools to move, copy, or delete them. The move tool moves the object around, the copy tool will make an exact copy of the object, and the delete tool will get rid of it. The two modes you can use are Classic and Follow. Classic mode has the camera remain fixed in one spot unless you manually adjust it. You change your vantage point by holding down the right button on your mouse and dragging. Follow mode has the camera follow your character as you move right and left. Click on the menu button in the top left-hand corner to change your camera mode. If you’re done playing or want to move to a different world, all you have to do is navigate to the menu button in the top left corner of your screen or press Esc and then press L or click Leave Game. A window will confirm before you quit, confirm it either by pressing ↵ Enter or clicking the blue button. A chat window will open up and you’ll be able to talk to the other people on the server. However, the developer of the world can also disable this feature if they don’t want to allow chat. You can also click the chat bar where it says click here if the game did not disable that option


Move you hand up between her breasts and feel for the clasp in the center of the bra. Slide your middle and index finger under the clasp and lift it away from her body. Press your thumb against the clasp.

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It will be made of metal or plastic and should lay flat against her sternum. Most women wear bras that fasten in the back, so check her back before you try to unclasp the front of her bra.  Though it's probably obvious what you're doing, make sure she's okay with what you are about to do. It doesn't have to be a big deal and can even be kind of sexy. Just pause and whisper "Is this okay?" If she tells you yes then you can proceed. If she says no, don't try to force anything. Just remove your hand and enjoy kissing her. This relieves some of the tension in the bra. If it is not an eyelet closure, there may just be two metal or plastic pieces that snap together and lock when flat against her chest. If this appears to be the case, spread your fingers so they are on either side of the clasp. If the bra is fastened with a hook and eyelet, then you will make the same snapping, squeezing movement as you would with a back-fastening bra. If not, you will need to push one side of the clasp up so that it unfastens from the other side. Pinch one side of the clasp between your thumb and index finger and pull up while your middle finger pulls down on the opposite side of the clasp. The hook is not always on the same side, so if this doesn't work, try pressing your thumb against your middle finger and pulling up while your index finger pulls down.


Move your bird to the potty spot when he needs to go. Say your command when your bird defecates. Reward the behavior. Take your bird to the potty spot as often as necessary.

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Watch your bird when it's out of its cage. Remember the natural behaviors you noticed that indicated the bird needed to use the bathroom. If you see the bird doing things that indicates it needs to go, like squatting or flicking its tail, immediately move the bird to the bathroom area. At first, you will need to use the "step up" command to get your bird to climb on your arm or finger. Then, take your bird to the potty spot and hold it over the spot until it goes to the bathroom. Watch your bird closely. When it defecates, say your command. This will help your bird make the connection. It will realize it's supposed to go to the bathroom in the bathroom area. Some people use commands like "Hurry up" if their bird is taking a while to relieve itself. For example, if your bird has been standing on the potty area for a while, you can say something like "Hurry up!" and reward your bird as soon as it goes to the bathroom. Each time the bird goes in the bathroom spot, give it a reward. Parrots respond best to positive reinforcement. Offer a treat and praise when the bird successfully goes to the bathroom in the right spot. Choose a specific treat your parrot only gets for using the bathroom so the parrot understands what it's being rewarded for. You can also reward your bird by letting it out of the cage for a few minutes each time it goes to the bathroom in the proper spot. Then, put it back in its cage until it goes to the bathroom in the right spot again. Watch your bird closely both inside and outside of its cage. As soon as your bird begins squatting, take it to the potty spot. Do this for a few weeks until your bird knows where to relieve itself. Always say the command and reward your bird for going in the right spot. Be patient. It can be time consuming to be moving the bird to the bathroom area every 10 to 15 minutes, but most birds will eventually learn the behavior.


Move your canvas to the floor. Clear your mind. Mix your paint directly on the canvas. Pour paint onto the canvas, optional. Splatter or drip paint onto the canvas, optional. Try closing your eyes and painting. Stop when the painting feels complete.

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Many abstract artists say that this allows them to be closer to the work. Also, if you're creating a gestural, or action, abstract painting, it will be easier to apply the paint in a variety of ways. Don't feel as though you can't move the canvas while you're painting. In fact, you may create unique designs by starting on the floor and then moving the canvas upright while the paint is still wet. With gestural abstract art, you're not attempting to represent an image. Instead, focus on the process of applying the paint. Try a variety of applications and see what you like. Since this is more about the process of painting, you don't need to worry about creating a specific palette to work from before you begin. Instead, work on the colors as you're painting. Pouring paint on the canvas is simply one way to create a totally unique and unplanned image. Pour as much or as little paint as you like. You can also vary the distances from which your pour paint onto your canvas. Pouring from a great height will most likely create splatters, while pouring closer will offer more control and precision. Use whatever implement you like and dip in the paint. Then, flick the tool in order to splatter the paint or hold it over the canvas, allowing the paint to drip. You can use brushes, straws, squirt bottles, or old toothbrushes to splatter or drip the paint. If there's one thing that most abstract artists agree on, it's that an abstract painting shouldn't represent reality. One of the best ways to remove yourself from accidentally painting a recognizable form is to paint with your eyes closed. Allow the brush and paint to move over the canvas without worrying about the image you're creating. This type of painting is more about the experience than the outcome. Do not go back to improve or touch it up. Abstract artists don't think about the outcome; they just stop when they feel ready. Do not overwork your painting, but learn to finish it the moment you feel it is finished.


Move your car to the outer part of the lane. Make a complete stop in the road. Turn on your left indicator. Make the first turn to the left.

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This will give you more room to turn your vehicle without becoming an obstruction. As you shift positions in your lane, check your rear view mirror for traffic and wait for any cars behind you to pass. Drive carefully, and avoid making any sudden movements as you start the turn. Check your rear view mirror one last time for cars. If you can't see any, you are ready to begin the three-point turn. Tap your breaks to alert anyone behind you that you're making a turn. Completing a three-point turn should take at least 15-20 seconds. If you don't have enough time before the cars behind you approach, wait and make your turn elsewhere. Switch the left indicator on to alert drivers behind you of your intentions if you live in the U.S. or other countries that drive on the right side of the road. If your country drives on the left side of the road, however, turn on your right blinker. Stop and check for other cars, then turn your steering wheel all the way to the left. While turning, accelerate your vehicle carefully until you reach the edge of the opposite lane.  If you live in a country that drives on the left side of the road, turn to the right instead. If you're practicing three-point turns, accelerate your car slowly. You'll be able to make turns faster when you have experience.


Move your face slightly toward the camera. Tilt your chin down slightly when you're being photographed. Smile very slightly with your mouth. Squint your eyes a little and smize.

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This will accentuate your jawline. It will also make your head look more prominent compared to your body, which draws attention to your great smize.  While you're moving your face, make sure that your shoulders are still staying relaxed and natural. Tilting the head down makes your eyes look bigger. This is especially important when you want people to see your cute smize.  Make sure not to over-do it on the tilting, though. You don't want to give yourself a double-chin! It's hard to really smile with your eyes without moving your lips, so give yourself a break and let your lips smile a little bit. The trick is to just not go for a full teeth-baring grin. Your mouth will have an alluring, Mona Lisa look, and your friendly, crinkling eyes will pull the whole thing together. Avoid pouting. While this might look good on a few supermodels, it makes most people look grumpy. You've practiced all the various aspects of the smize, so now you're ready to put it all together for full effect. Remember to relax your shoulders, pick a focal point, tilt your chin down, and think happy thoughts. Aim for a relaxed, playful look. If you tap into some genuinely happy moment,  it will shine through in your photos. You'll look confident, and at ease with yourself.


Move your feet to the beat to move and bounce your body. Shift your hips around to move your whole body. Add your arms into your movements to add another layer. Change levels to make your moves more dynamic. Change up the direction of your body to add originality. Alternate between fast and slow movement to change the energy.

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Use the beat and rhythm of the music as a guide to start adding some footwork into your dancing. As you’re shifting your weight back and forth, try picking up your foot and moving it from where it was before. It doesn’t have to be a large movement, but moving your feet will help you bounce and move the rest of your body along to the music.  Keep your weight in the balls of your feet for stability as you move them. If you’re dancing with a partner or near other people, be mindful of your foot movement and be sure not to step on anybody’s toes. While you’re moving your feet and shifting your weight, start to move your hips in the direction that you’re shifting your weight. Moving your hips will move the rest of your body and add a dynamic layer to your dancing. Twist your hips to twist and move your body even more. If you’re nervous or uncomfortable, you may feel like keeping your arms rigid and tight to your body. Relax and incorporate your arms into your dancing with some simple moves like a fist pump by closing your fist, raising one of your arms, and pumping your hand to the beat.  Try bending your arms at the elbows, hold them near your sides, and move them up and down like you’re running while you move along to the beat. Stay active and play around with arm movements that match the music. When you feel more comfortable, try more complex arm movements. For example, try an arm wave by curling at your fingers and rolling up your arm to mimic a wave travelling up your arm. Level refers to how you’re posturing yourself while you’re dancing. You could be standing tall, squatting at your knees, on the tips of your toes, or even on the ground if you’re breakdancing. Avoid staying at one level during your freestyle or you’ll appear rigid. Mix in different levels to make your moves more exciting. For example, you could change from standing and moving your arms at your sides to bending your knees into a squat and raising your arms above your head. It’s a small movement that makes a big change in your dancing....


Move your shoulders in circles to loosen them up. Tuck your chin against your chest to stretch the back of your neck. Tilt your head backwards to stretch the front of your neck. Turn your head to the side as far as possible and hold it there. Bring your ear towards your shoulder to stretch the side of your neck. Loosen up the sides of your neck with a chicken wing stretch. Use a door jamb to do a levator scapulae stretch.

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Standing with your feet shoulder-width apart, bring your shoulders up towards your ears, then roll them back and down in a circular motion. Do this several times, keeping the motion fluid and loose, then several times in the other direction. You should feel your shoulder muscles relax a little. Keeping your back straight, lean your head forward as far as it will comfortably go, ideally until your chin is pressed against your chest. You can use your hand to press gently on the back of your head to extend this stretch, being careful not to push past where you are comfortable. Stay in this stretch for about 15 seconds. Stand with your back straight and your feet about shoulder-width apart. Keeping your shoulders loose, lean your head slowly backwards until your face is pointed up towards the ceiling. Move your chin as far upward as possible to stretch the front of your neck. Hold this stretch for 15-20 seconds. This will stretch the muscles that rotate your head horizontally. Turn your head as far to the left as possible, gently pushing the side of your face to extend the stretch. Hold it in place for about 15 seconds, then slowly turn it back to face forward. Repeat on the right side. Keeping your shoulders loose and relaxed, tilt your head to the left and bring your ear down towards your shoulder as far as possible. Gently push on the side of your head to extend the stretch, and stay in place for about 15 seconds. Come back up slowly, then repeat the stretch on the right side. To get a deeper stretch, you can also hold a light dumbbell (under 5 pounds (2.3 kg)) in one hand while you stretch your neck in the opposite direction. Stand up straight and put both hands behind your back. Use your right hand to pull your left hand gently to the right while leaning your head to the right. Hold this stretch for 15-20 seconds, then switch sides. The levator scapulae are muscles on the sides of your neck that attach to your shoulders. You can stretch them by lifting your elbow up above your shoulder and resting it on a...