Cut an egg carton in half lengthwise with scissors or a serrated knife. Paint the outside of the carton with acrylic, poster, or tempera paint. Poke two holes on top of the first cup for the antenna. Poke a pipe cleaner up through the holes. Secure, trim, and shape the antenna. Add a face. Decorate the caterpillar.

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You will end up with two long rows of egg cups. Pick the one you want and set the other one aside. Be sure to tear off the lid and front flaps so that you have just the strip.  You can use any size egg carton you want. The more eggs it holds, the longer your caterpillar will be! A cardboard egg carton will work better than the foam kind because it is easier to paint. Green is the most popular caterpillar color, but you can make yours any color you want. To make a "very hungry caterpillar," paint the first cup red for the head, then paint the rest green. Let the paint dry before moving on. You can paint the inside of the carton, but you need to let the outside dry first. The holes need to be right next to the narrow edge. Use a pen, pencil, or skewer to poke the holes. It would be a good idea to ask an adult to help you with this step. Turn the carton so that you can see the inside. Stick each end of a pipe cleaner through one of the holes. Flip the carton over and tug on both ends of the pipe cleaner so that it's even. The pipe cleaner can be any color. Yellow will work the best, but you can use black too! Twist the antenna together once or twice, then spread them open in a V. Use scissors to cut the antenna shorter, then glue a mini pompom to the top of each one. You can use any color of pompom you want. Red would work well with yellow pipe cleaners!  Hot glue will work the best, but you can use tacky glue as well. Hold the pompoms in place for about 30 seconds to help them stick. If you don't have pompoms, curl the ends of the antenna with a pencil instead. Glue some googly eyes to the front of the first cup, just below the antenna. Hold them down for about 30 seconds. This will help them stick better. Next, use a marker to draw on a mouth.  If you can't find googly eyes, you can draw them on instead. For a girly caterpillar, add rosy cheeks and lashes. For a silly caterpillar, glue a small, red pompom to the middle of the face for the nose. Your caterpillar is done, but you can make it look more colorful...


Cut an empty toilet paper roll into four rings. Paint the inside and outside of each ring. Glue or staple the rings together side by side. Add some eyes. Draw on a mouth, if desired. Cut and fold a pipe cleaner in half for the antenna. Glue the antenna to the caterpillar's neck. Let the caterpillar dry.

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If you don't have any toilet paper rolls, cut a paper towel roll in half, and use that instead. If you don't have any rolls at all, do the following:  Cut three 1½-inch (3.81-centimeter) wide strips out of green paper. Cut a 1½-inch (3.81-centimeter) wide strips out of red paper. Roll each strip into a ring. Secure each with a staple. Do not link or connect the rings. You can use acrylic, poster, or tempera paint for this. To make a "very hungry caterpillar," you will need three green rings and one red ring. If you made the rings out of green paper, skip this step. Glue all of the rings together in a row with the side/curved edges touching. Glue the red ring to the end of the row to make the head. You will have something that looks like this: oooo. Keep the rings straight. If they are crooked, the caterpillar won't stand. You can draw the eyes one with a black marker, or you can glue on a pair of googly eyes. To make a "very hungry caterpillar, do the following:  Cut two small ovals out of yellow paper. Cut two smaller ovals out of green paper. Glue the green ovals onto the yellow ovals to make the pupils. Glue the yellow ovals onto the caterpillar's head. Use a black marker to draw a simple smile in the middle of the face, just below the eyes. Cut a pipe cleaner in half first. Set one of the halves aside for another project. Fold the remaining half into a V-shape. For a "very hungry caterpillar," use a purple pipe cleaner. Fill the space between the red ring and the first green ring with glue. Set the antenna into the glue, pointy-side-down. Hold it there until the glue dries. If you can't wait that long, use a hot glue gun instead. Once the caterpillar is dry, you can stand it up on its side. If it keeps falling over, place some double-sided tape on the bottom, then stand it back up again. The tape will stick to your desk, and keep the caterpillar steady.


Cut and install you steering column. Cut the steering hoop and kill switch brace. Add resting tabs for brake and throttle. Attach spindle brackets. Give yourself a foot rest. Don't forget your brake band stud.

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You should cut a section of 3/4" x 11 gauge tubing and weld it to your steering tabs. Insert an additional 1" spacer loosely by the shaft near the steering hoop, grinding the shaft slightly near the hoop if too tight. Drill a three hole pattern with the holes equidistant from the center of the washer at the end of your shaft. Make your cuts at a 39 degree angle for your hoop. At this time you should verify that all measurements for your steering assembly are correct for your kart and allow for a full range of motion. The hoop and shaft should be at a 90 degree angle to one another. These 2" long 3/8" diameter tabs keep your pedals in their resting and full forward positions. The closest tab to the center of the frame should be fixed a max of 1/2" after the crosswise piece your to which your steering column is attached. The second tab should be installed 1 3/8" after the first tab. You will weld these to the front axle of your go-kart. The spindle should have a 1" clearance above the front axle. Use a 3/8" rod in a vise to bend it with a hammer into the shape of your passenger footrest if applicable. This will keep your feet from resting on tie rods. This stud will serve as the pivot for your brake band. Weld a 3/8" round bar to the frame 1 1/2" after your axle.


Cut and rinse the internal organ meat. Boil the internal organ meat to sterilize it. Cook the internal organ meat to soften it.

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Cut the internal organ meat (tripe, liver, kidney, heart, pancreas) into 1-inch cubes. If you're using goat intestines, carefully slice down the length of the intestines with a sharp knife. Rub down the intestines and innards with lime juice and rinse the innards off with water. Avoid taking care of young children while handling the raw intestines and internal organs. These meats can carry bacteria, so wash and sanitize your hands after handling them. Place the cubed internal organ meat in a large pot. Cover the meat with cold water so that it's covered. Bring the meat to a boil over high heat. Boil the internal organs for 5 full minutes. Drain the internal organs into a colander in your kitchen sink. Boiling the innards will kill any bacteria. During this time, you should clean and sanitize your kitchen, especially any equipment that came into contact with the raw internal organs. Check over the internal organ meat to make sure it's clean. Return the meat to the cooking pot and cover it with fresh cold water. Bring the meat to a boil and continue boiling until it's tender. Depending on what meats you used, it may take several hours before the internal organs are tender. Check the meats every 20 to 30 minutes if you're unsure how long you'll need to boil them.


Cut and style your hair. Protect your hair at night. Apply detangler and conditioner every few days. Oil your scalp, especially at the front. Be gentle if you need to brush your hair. Retighten your braids. Have your braids redone every 6 to 8 weeks.

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Once the extensions are in, the hair can be cut to give you layers and body. Simply cut your hair as usual, except that you need to keep your comb away from the completed braids at the scalp. Put your hair up into several buns or braids, or simply put it into a ponytail. Then cover it with a cap or head scarf. This will minimize the risk of pulling out your extensions or creating frizziness. This will help your extensions to remain clean and shiny, as well as avoiding large tangles. You can also shampoo your hair, but do it gently. This works best if you are using synthetic extensions, but natural hair can also be gently washed as well. This will help your scalp health, aiding your natural hair growth. It will also help you avoid a dry, itchy scalp. Vigorous brushing or combing can pull the extensions out of your hair. In order to avoid this, keep your hair detangled by protecting it at night and applying a detangled. If at all possible, simply comb through your hair with your fingers, not a comb or brush. If one of your rows is loose or out of shape, but the rest of your braids look great, take it out and rebraid it. If you had a professional do your braids, they may do a re-tightening free of charge. By this point the braids will have loosened and your hair will probably become frizzy. If you don't want to have your braids redone, simply remove them. Begin at the ends of the braids at the back of your head, undoing the braids and removing the extensions as you go. This process should be easy and painless, although it might take a while.


Cut and tie your thread. Thread your needle. Insert the needle from back to front to create a whipstitch. Repeat your stitch to finish the edge. Tie off the thread after the last stitch.

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The low-tech and old-fashioned way to deal with a fraying edge is to fix it with a needle and thread. To begin, cut a length of thread that is around 18 in (46 cm) in length. Tie a knot in one end by looping the end around your forefinger, then push the shorter end through the loop, and pull it through. Take the unknotted end of your thread and grasp it between your thumb and forefinger. Loop it around the needle and slip the tiny loop off over the head of the needle creating a tight little loop. Flatten the loop between your fingers and then insert it through the eye of the needle until the loop pokes out the other side. Grasp the loop with your fingers and pull it through until the tail comes through.  You may need to cut a fresh end on your thread if it is a bit worn and floppy, as a soft piece of thread is difficult to work with. Pull the tail through so that it is about 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) in length. Hold your fabric with the front or finished side facing up. Starting at the back of the fabric, insert the needle as close to the edge as you can. Push the needle through the fabric to the front and pull the thread through until the knot catches.  Don’t pull too tightly or you’ll create a rumpled look on your edge. Stay close to the edge, about 1⁄8 in (0.32 cm) or less is ideal. Place your needle again on the back of the fabric, next to the spot where you inserted it for your first stitch.  Move on, repeating this same stitch across the length of your edge, always inserting the needle from the back to the front. Space your stitches closer together for a tighter stitch or farther apart for a looser stitch. Turn to the back of the fabric. Thread your needle under the last stitch and pull the thread under it until a small loop forms. Pull the needled through the loop and pull to create a knot. For more security, repeat this to make a second knot. Cut the thread to finish the edge, leaving no more than an 1⁄8 in (0.32 cm) remaining at the end.


Cut and toast the dried chili peppers. Soak the peppers in hot water. Brown ground chuck in a large frying pan Cook the onions until translucent. Combine chili ingredients in a large saucepan. Simmer until the meat is tender. Mix in corn flour paste (optional). Adjust spices and serve. Finished.

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Slice open the peppers and remove the seeds, stem, and white inner flesh. Heat a dry skillet and toast the peppers for about 30 seconds on each side, until dark spots begin to appear. You can skip this step and use chili powder instead, but whole dried chili peppers give a much better flavor.  Do not touch your eyes until you've washed your hands thoroughly. Wear gloves if you have sensitive skin. If you like extra-spicy, chili, set aside some of the seeds and add them once the chili is cooking. Submerge in 1 cup (240 mL) of hot water, not boiling water, for 5–10 minutes. Puree the peppers and water in a blender and set them aside for now. If you think you'll use them again, you can make a large batch in advance. For maximum flavor, soak for 30 minutes and simmer in oil, covered, for another 20 minutes. . Add the beef to a hot frying pan and cook until brown. Stir occasionally and break it into even-sized pieces with a wooden spoon. For best results, brown in small batches, so most of the beef can touch the pan surface. This will take a few minutes per batch. Use a nonstick pan, or nonstick cooking spray. Add the diced onions to the hot pan and cook until translucent, about five minutes. Combine chili pepper puree, beef, and onions in a large pot. The larger and heavier the pot, the better the meat texture will be. Add the chicken or beef stock, beer, cumin, a grind of pepper, and several pinches of salt.  If food has stuck to the frying pan, deglaze it with some of the stock and add it to the chili. Red ale or stout is a good choice. Replace with more stock for a nonalcoholic version; otherwise, about 25% of the alcohol will remain. Bring to a boil, then simmer uncovered until the meat is tender and the chili is thick, 45–60 minutes. Stir occasionally. For extra flavor, instead cover with a slightly ajar lid and cook for up to 3 hours. This makes a thicker, less greasy chili. Add the corn flour to a bowl and spoon in some of the chili broth. Stir until it forms a paste, then pour it into the chili. Stir...


Cut at a 45-degree angle above the flower nodes or junctions. Remove diseased branches. Prune damaged or crossed branches. Cut 1/3 of the way down each branch if you're doing a hard prune. Make cuts that shape the desert rose.

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Once you've decided the shape you want the desert rose to have, you can identify which branches you'll need to cut back. Use your sterilized cutting tool to cut about 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the flower node or junction where the branches split. Cutting at a 45-degree angle allows the branch to heal more quickly. If you cut at a 90-degree angle, water can collect in the branch and cause it to rot. Look at the desert rose for any rotting branches that are black, dark brown, or yellow. Cut off these branches at a 45-degree angle. When you prune these branches, cut enough of the branch that only the healthy part remains For example, if you cut away a rotten branch and see black or brown in the branch close to the caudex, make another cut that's closer to the caudex so you get to healthy tissue. Check the desert rose for any branches that are tangled or growing into the center of the plant. If any branches are broken, thin, or leggy, you might want to prune them too. Remember to prune these away at a 45-degree angle. Use your disinfected pruning shears or cutting blade to cut back each branch at a 45-degree angle. For example, if 1 branch is 6 inches (15 cm) long, you'd cut 2 inches (5 cm) off of it. Or if another branch is 9 inches (22 cm) long, prune away 3 inches (7.5 cm). If you're cutting a desert rose that's the size of a small tree or shrub, you may want to use sterilized loppers to make pruning easier. If you're cutting to dramatically change the shape of the plant, step back and look at which branches will need to be cut. For example, you might need to completely cut back branches that stick out to the side if you're trying to create a small, rounded desert rose.


Cut away any loose or broken wood from around the hole or crack. Pack the hole with paper towels. Fill the hole with expanding foam insulation. Leave the insulation foam to dry overnight. Trim away the excess foam with a utility knife. Apply a layer of auto-body filler for a strong repair. Cover the hole with spackle for a quicker fix. Wait 1 hour for the surface to dry. Sand down the surface of the door.

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Depending on how the door was damaged, there may be some loose splinters or fragments around the edges of the hole or crack. Rather than trying to repair these, use a utility knife to cut away any damaged wood until you’re left with a clean hole free from rough edges.  Always cut away from yourself when working with a utility knife, especially when cutting through something sturdy like wood. You may need to make the hole or crack bigger before you can begin repairing it. It’s much easier to repair a larger hole free from damaged wood than it is to repair a smaller one that’s fragmented or broken. While the paper towels won’t make the door stronger or repair it, they are an easy and affordable way to hold the insulation foam in place while it dries. Bunch up a few paper towels and stuff them around the bottom and sides of the hole or crack you want to repair. Paper towels work as they are light enough to hold their own weight inside the door. If you don’t have paper towels, use some tissue paper or something similarly light. Expanding insulation foam comes in a spray can with a long nozzle on the top. Point the nozzle into the hole or crack in your door and begin spraying. The foam will expand to fill the space inside the door, with any excess expanding outside the hole through the face of the door. Expanding insulation foam should be available online or from your local hardware store. For a smaller space, a low-expansion type may be easier to handle. Once the insulation foam has filled in the hole or crack, it needs to dry all the way through before it can be cut or sanded down. Leave the foam to sit for 4 to 5 hours or ideally overnight so that it can dry completely. Check the instructions on your own brand of insulation foam for more guidance on how long it will take to dry. Position a utility knife slightly above any protruding insulation foam so that it is flush with the face of the door. Run the knife down the face of the door to cut away any excess foam, trimming it until the foam sits no more than 0.1...


Cut away the branches of the tree with clippers. Shovel a trench around the bush. Cut the roots with an axe. Place plywood boards on either side of the bush. Set up a jack stand on one side of the bush. Place the jack on the other side of the bush. Place a wood beam over the jack and jack stand. Tie the stump to the beam with a towing chain. Put on safety goggles and clear the area. Crank the jack to raise it. Saw off the exposed roots.

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Start on the outside of the tree, removing the smaller branches. This can also be done with other tools, such as a saw. Use your pointed shovel or garden shovel to expose the bush’s roots. Dig all the way around the bush so the roots to expose the roots on all sides. Use an axe or mattock to sever the exposed roots. If you don’t have one, you may be able to do this with a pointed shovel or saw. Stack 2 or 3 flat boards on either side of the bush. The boards help give the jack more height to raise the bush. Jack stands can be found at auto parts stores. Set it on one of the plywood board stacks with the lifting arm facing upwards. If you don’t have a jack stand, stack 2 or 3 concrete blocks on top of the plywood instead. Lay the jack on top of the other plywood stack. Be sure to use a strong jack, such as long, flat hydraulic jack. This type of jack is better at bearing weight and should have a mechanical arm that you can crank while standing behind it. Scissor jacks, which often come packaged with cars, aren’t recommended. They’re a little more flimsy and only designed to lift your specific type of car. A 4 in × 6 in (10 cm × 15 cm) beam is the standard size, although you may need a longer one for bigger bushes. Rest one end on the jack and the other end on the jack stand. Double-check the towing chain to make sure it isn’t damaged. If it is, get a new one at an auto parts store first. Tie one end of the chain around the beam, then run it down to the stump. Wrap it around the stump and loop the end in to tighten it. You will be putting lots of pressure on the beam and chain. Either one can recoil, so wear eye protection in case this happens. Have any children, pets, or onlookers stand far away or go inside. Crank the mechanical arm on the jack. The arm will raise the beam, lifting the stump. If the stump doesn’t lift enough, lower the jack and place a few wood blocks on the jack’s arm underneath the beam. Get the axe or other cutting implement you used before. Lower the jack as much as possible to ease...


Cut away the browning foliage when it starts to die back. Dig the potatoes out of the ground. Lay out the potatoes to cure in a cool and dry place. Store the potatoes somewhere cool, dry, and dark.

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As the potato plants mature, the foliage will begin to yellow and die as the plants approach the end of their life cycle. When this happens, remove brown foliage with garden shears or scissors. Once the foliage has died, wait another two weeks before harvesting the potatoes. Once all the foliage has died and you’ve given the potatoes a couple of weeks to mature, you can dig out the potatoes. Use a spade or small shovel to gently dig down into the soil to unearth the potatoes. This will ensure you don’t puncture or bruise any with the spade. Depending on the type of potatoes you planted, your potatoes will be ready for harvest anywhere between 60 and 100 days from the planting date. After you dig up the potatoes, transfer them to a garage, covered porch, or somewhere else that’s cool, dry, shaded, and well-ventilated. Leave the potatoes there for at least three days and up to two weeks to cure. This will give the skins time to mature, and help the potatoes keep for longer.  The ideal temperature for curing potatoes is between 45 and 60 F (7 and 15.5 C). Do not cure new potatoes, as they should be eaten within a few days of harvesting. After curing and brushing, transfer the potatoes to burlap or paper bags for storage. Move the potatoes to a root cellar or other place where they’ll be protected from light, heat, and moisture.  The ideal temperature for potato storage is between 35 and 40° F (1.6 and 4.4° C). The potatoes should last for several months under these conditions.


Cut back on carbohydrates. Include lean protein at each meal. Fill half of your plate with non-starchy vegetables. Drink adequate fluids. Cut out drinking Limit your caffeine consumption so you don't overwhelm your system. Sip on matcha or green tea to aid your weight loss. Consider finishing your meals for the day at least 4 hours before bed. Use meal replacements if they're more convenient for you.

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Studies have shown one of the quickest ways to lose weight is by following a low-carb diet. Limit carbohydrate-rich foods if you want to come close to losing 5 kg in one week.  Carbohydrates are found in a wide variety of foods. Only limit those that are mostly carbohydrates like grain-based foods. Bread, pastries, rice, pasta and other grains are carbohydrate-rich and can be limited safely, as many of their nutrients are present in other foods. Dairy products, starchy vegetables, and fruits also contain carbohydrates. Minimize these in your diet, but do not completely cut these foods out. They provide valuable nutrition to your diet.  Switch out these foods for low-glycemic grains and non-starchy vegetables. For example, replace your bread, cereal and white rice with steel cut oats or brown rice. For vegetables, fill your plate with foods like cauliflower, broccoli, asparagus, cucumber, mushrooms, and asparagus. In addition to following a low-carb diet, focus on consuming adequate amounts of lean protein. Higher protein diets in combination with low-carb are good for quicker weight loss.  Focus on leaner sources of protein. They are lower in calories which can help support weight loss. Try: skinless poultry, eggs, lean beef, seafood, legumes, and tofu. Include a source of protein at each meal and snack. This will help you reach your daily recommended amount. One serving of protein is about 3–4 oz or about the size of a check book.  Protein will also help support weight loss by keeping you feel more satisfied longer which can help manage your hunger and desire to eat. To round out your meals, make the remaining half of your plate mostly vegetables and the occasional serving of fruit. These low-calorie foods will provide you with many vital nutrients. However, stick to non-starchy veggies to keep your calorie count low and your blood sugar stable.  The USDA recommends that you make half your plate a fruit or a vegetable. This is acceptable for most diets, even if you're trying to lose weight; however, fruits...


Cut back on drinking alcohol. Don't overdo it on medications. Intake less salt. Monitor your protein consumption. Stop smoking

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It's no  secret that over-indulging in alcoholic beverages (which contain ethanol, a carcinogen) is strongly associated with numerous types of cancer and organ damage, including the kidneys. Ethanol damages the delicate internal structures of the kidneys, making them less able to filter your blood and balance fluids / electrolytes — frequently leading to high blood pressure.  Binge drinking (about 4-5 drinks within a couple of hours) can raise blood alcohol levels to the point that the kidneys essentially shut down — a condition called acute kidney injury.  As such, either stop drinking alcohol entirely or limit your consumption to no more than 1 alcoholic beverage per day. The least harmful alcoholic beverage is considered to be red wine because it contains antioxidants, such as resveratrol, which can help prevent free radical damage of blood vessels and other tissues. All medications are toxic to organs such as the liver and kidneys at least to some extent (dosage is obviously an important factor too), but some are much more damaging than others. For example, common over-the-counter anti-inflammatories such as ibuprofen, naproxen and aspirin are well known to cause kidney damage if they are taken regularly over a prolonged period of time. The byproducts of their breakdown within the body can easily damage the kidneys and liver.  If your kidneys are otherwise healthy, then occasional use of these medicines for inflammation and pain control is probably fine, but keep continuous use to less than 2 weeks and dosages under 800 mg daily. If you're taking anti-inflammatories on a long-term basis for arthritis or other chronic conditions, ask your doctor about monitoring your kidney function via certain blood and urine tests. The typical American diet is relatively high in salt, which is comprised of sodium and chloride. Too much sodium inhibits your kidneys from filtering and excreting water, which builds up in the body and increases blood pressure. High blood pressure (hypertension) creates turbulence within the...


Cut back on purine-rich foods. Eat foods that lower your uric acid levels. Take a supplement. Eat more vegetables.

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Your body breaks down purine in food to produce uric acid which contributes to gout pain. Either avoid purine-rich food or limit your servings to two to four servings a week. If you've had kidney stones that contain uric acid or currently have an episode of gout, avoid purine-rich food completely. Foods rich in purine include:  Alcohol Sugary soft drinks Fatty foods such as fried foods, butter, margarine and high-fat dairy products Organ meats. These foods have the highest levels of purines. Beef, chicken, pork, bacon, veal, venison Anchovies, sardines, herring, mussels, codfish, scallops, trout, haddock, crab, oyster, lobster, shrimp Some foods can protect against high uric acid levels. Try to eat foods rich in phytate which can prevent kidney stone formation, including kidney stones with uric acid. To get phytate, eat two to three servings of beans, legumes, and whole grains every day. The following foods are also helpful in treating gout and kidney stones:  Calcium rich foods, including low-fat dairy products Tart cherry juice: Drink three to four 8-ounce glasses of organic juice every day for relief within 12 to 24 hours. There are several supplements that are recommended to treat gout. Consider taking omega-3 fatty acids (especially EPA), bromelain (which acts as an anti-inflammatory), or the B vitamin folate, quercitin, or Devil's Claw (all of which reduce uric acid levels). Take the supplements according to the manufacturer's dosing recommendations and always talk to your doctor before supplementing. Some supplements may interfere with medication.  Bromelain is an enzyme that comes from pineapples and is often used to treat digestive issues. Anyone with gout should avoid supplemental Vitamin C or niacin. Both of these vitamins may increase uric acid levels. While you may be cutting a lot of foods out of your diet, don't forget to add healthy foods. Eat plenty of vegetables to get a variety of health benefits and nutrients. While some vegetables (like asparagus, spinach, and mushrooms) contain purines,...


Cut back on sugars. Eliminate unhealthy options from your dessert menu. Avoid processed or artificial ingredients. Shop for organic food.

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In most recipes, the sugar content in your desserts can be pulled back anywhere from 25% to 33%, without having an enormous impact on the overall taste or quality of your finished dessert. Reducing the sugar works best in recipes for cakes, quick bread, and cookies. Do not eliminate sugar from recipes that require it for its texture, like custards or compotes. Avoid inherently harmful things like candy or holiday desserts that require a lot of fat or sugar. Concentrate on desserts that rely on fruit as their sweeteners, such as pies or tarts. Other healthier desserts include things like baked pears, low-fat strawberry shortcake, and banana oatmeal cookies. Avoid products that use chemical additives such as certain icing or frosting. Instead of buying some at the store, consider making your own frosting. Sometimes store bought icing can contain additives and preservatives that have harmful or questionable chemicals in them. Avoid artificial sweeteners or chemical food dyes as well. Using all organic ingredients will prevent your food from being tainted from pesticides. Use organic fruits and milk in your recipes. Organic foods can be good for your heart health and immune system and is often fresher than other ingredients because it's grown locally. There are more antioxidants and vitamins in organic milk.


Cut back or stop napping. Limit alcohol. Watch your caffeine intake. Turn off electronics a few hours before bedtime. Avoid exercising too late in the evening.

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Having depression can give you an overall sense of lethargy, which can make you want to nap throughout the day. However, you should avoid this behavior if at all possible. Sleeping randomly throughout the day can cause night time disruptions in your sleeping patterns, which can throw your entire sleep schedule off.  If you feel as if you have to nap, make sure it is a short nap of no more than an hour or so. This will help take the edge off of your tiredness but will be less likely to disrupt your nighttime sleep patterns. Daytime napping may be the only kind of sleep you can get when you suffer from depression induced insomnia. If this is your situation, try to resist napping as much as possible. You will likely be really tired for a while, but eventually you should be able to readjust your sleep schedule to make the bulk of your sleep happen at night. Although it may seem tempting to use alcohol, which is a depressant, to help you sleep, it actually has the opposite effect on your sleep cycle. When you drink, especially larger amounts, you are more prone to multiple sleep disruptions during the night. If you do want to drink, try to cut yourself off a few hours before bedtime and stay within the recommended daily limit. The recommended daily limit is one serving for women and two servings for men. One serving is a 12 ounce beer, 5 fluid ounces of wine, or 1.5 fluid ounces of distilled liquor. Caffeine is a major stimulant that may cause you to lose sleep at night. If you are having trouble sleeping, try to stop drinking caffeinated beverages around 2pm. This will give the caffeine time to get out of your system before you try to sleep.  Although there is no clear link to caffeine consumption and depression, caffeine has been shown to affect moods. This means you should try to cut the amount of caffeine you have daily to see if it helps improve your mood. If you are used to a large amount of caffeine a day, do not cut it out too quickly. This can actually make your depression worse due to the caffeine...


Cut blooming flowers in your garden during the summer. Select healthy flowers that are free of insects and disease. Use flowers from a sentimental bouquet to preserve your memories. Cut the stem so it is at least 6 in (15 cm) and remove extra foliage.

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Choose flowers in full bloom so you can preserve the rich color of the petals or blossoms. For best results, pick your flowers in the morning, and move the fresh-cut flowers from the sunlight as quickly as possible.  In particular, hairspray works well with flowers with robust blooms such as roses. It also works great with flowers with smaller blooms like lavender. You can also use flowers that bloom in the winter, such as Hellebore, Winter Jasmine, and Algerian Iris. Avoid choosing flowers with brown spots or uneven sections. These flowers are less-than-ideal, and they won’t look as nice once they are dried and preserved. Instead, choose flowers will full blooms rather than budding blossoms.  These flowers will likely turn brown and rot rather than staying true to their colors after preservation. Exposure to sunlight can cause the flowers to turn brown or start to wilt. If you aren't using flowers from your garden, you can also use cut flowers from your favorite bouquet. This is a good idea if you want to keep your Valentine's Day or Graduation flowers for long-term display. Using pruning shears, make a cut at a 45-degree angle along the main stem of your flower. Then, use your fingers to pick off some of the extra leaves and greenery. You can leave 2-4 leaves to add some color to your bouquet.  If you cut your flower stem less than 6 in (15 cm) long, it may be too small to display in a vase. You can use 1 single flower or many flowers, based on your desired look.


Cut boards for the top. Piece the top together. Secure the top. Add sides (an apron), if you like. Cut the pieces for the legs. Piece the legs together. Stain or paint your coffee table pieces. Attach the legs to the top.

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Use a table saw or hand saw to cut boards to the length you would like your coffee table to be. 32 inches (81 cm) is a good length to try, if you’re not sure what size to make it. Cut four standard boards approximately two inches thick and eight inches wide, known as 2x8s, to this length to serve as the top of your table.  You can also use 2x4s or other boards. Just cut enough so that the overall width of your coffee table, when the boards are laid side-by-side, will be to your liking. It is also possible to make a coffee table top from a single, wide slab of suitable wood. However, this might be harder to find at your local hardware store. Put wood glue on the long, two-inch thick sides of the boards you are using for the top, and slide them together so that they form one large, flat surface. Make sure that the ends line up evenly. Use long clamps to hold them in place while the glue dries. You only have to glue the sides of the boards that are touching each other. Cut 2x4 boards so that you have two lengths of 32 inches (81 cm) each. Position them so that they lie across all of the boards that you glued together to make the top. Place one on each side a couple of inches from the narrower edge of the top. The narrow ends of the 2x4s should be flush with the long sides of the coffee table top. Attach them to the top using wood screws. This step is optional, but can add a bit of extra charm to your project. Cut two 2x4 boards the length of your table, and two more its width. Cut the ends of each board on their narrow side at a 45 degree angle. Glue the boards to the sides of your coffee table top so that they are flush with the top. Clamp them in place, and nail or screw them to the top once the glue has dried. Using 4x4s, cut four pieces to the height you would like your coffee table to be. Approximately 17 inches (43 cm) should be a comfortable height. You will also need to cut two pieces of plywood to 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) by 26 inches (66 cm). Finally, cut two pieces of 2x4 to the length of 19 inches...


Cut bumper frame and drill holes for tube padding. Install the axle. Put in a floor. Weld a brace for your seat.

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You should round the edges of your bumper by connecting the vertical pieces that link to your frame and the horizontal piece parallel to the back piece of your frame with a short connector cut on a 22.5 degree angle. Drill holes for your tube padding into the back of your bumper. Drill 5/16" centered holes through your bumper padding at 1 1/8" from the padding end. Cut a 1" x 1" section of square tubing and weld bolts to the ends. A 6" bolt will go on the driver's side of your kart, while a 4" bolt will be on the passenger side. Weld the axle underneath the base of the frame. Always use proper protective gear when welding. Failing to do so can result in significant harm to yourself. A 16 gauge sheet metal piece should be sufficient for the floor of your kart. Using your plans from earlier, drill holes in the sheet for the fastening bolts for your seat. You should brace both outer sides of the go kart frame with flat, 3/16" gauge steel. This is where you will install the bench for your seat.


Cut canvas for the seat. Fold the full piece of canvas in half and lay it flat. Cut along the line using sharp fabric scissors. Hem each edge of the fabric. Sew 1 ½” pockets on each diagonal side. Design the canvas with fabric paint.

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Canvas seats can be made to fit any size person, or project. For a small child, 2 yards (1.8 m) of the canvas will be appropriate, while adults will need 3-4 yards of fabric to form a proper seat. Most canvas should come at a standard width of 1.75 yards. If you want a deeper chair, fold the canvas long-ways, making your cuts along the longer edges of the fabric. If you want your chair wider, cut along the short side. In general, the short-side cut makes a better chair. Fold the canvas in half, short-ways. Orient the folded edge to your left. Mark a point about 7 inches to the left of the top right corner and draw a light diagonal line with pencil, toward the bottom right corner. This is where you'll cut. Again, make sure the folded edge is oriented to your left. You want to cut the unfolded side of the fabric. Go slowly, taking care to avoid creating a raggedy edge to work with. If you do, don't worry too much, because you can fold it over later while you're assembling and creating the edges. Open up the canvas and spread it out to work. You should have a four-sided shape, with two angled edges of equal length, a long side and a short side. Orient the fabric so the shortest side is at the top. Fold each edge back half an inch, then fold it again and iron. Pin them in place, and then stitch the fold twice in two parallel lines to reinforce it. Hemming the top and bottom of the chair seat will help to prevent tearing after frequent use. Hem the diagonal edges as well, but only once. After hemming the long and short sides, fold the diagonals that you cut earlier about a half inch, as you did the other edges. Pin, press, and sew the edge to reinforce it. Fold an inch and a half pocket back on each hemmed diagonal edge, then iron. Sew two reinforced lines along the hem, creating a pocket seam large enough to pull the rope through. Reinforce your beginning and ending with back stitches. These pockets are going to be holding your weight, so they need to be secure. Get creative and use your fabric paint to express...


Cut down casings when your flooring doesn't fit underneath it. Scribe around tricky corners or angles. Use a pull bar to help join together tongue and grooves of end pieces.

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If you're trying to install flooring around doors for example, you might find that the floating floor doesn't quite fit beneath the casing. Trim these door casings with a flush-cut dovetail saw if the flooring doesn't fit underneath the casings. To do this, hold the saw flat against a scrap piece of flooring to use as a guide, and press the saw into the casing, gently make the cut. Slide the flooring underneath to make sure that it fits. Scribing is a really useful skill to have in your toolkit. It will allow you to make accurate cuts using a compass as a guide. Usually, you can fasted one piece of flooring to its vertical cousin by tapping on the bottom of the end piece. But what if the end piece butts up against a wall, and you don't have the space to tap the tongue and groove together? For this you use a tool called a pull bar, which is a long strip of metal with a tongue on either end going in opposite directions. Just fit the pull bar down into the seam between the end piece and the wall, and then tap on the upward-sticking tongue of the bar to connect the tongue and groove.


Cut down on acidic drinks. Rinse your mouth with water after eating and drinking. Chew sugar free gum between meals. Understand the environmental factors.

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One of the main causes of tooth decay and enamel erosion is a bad diet, or excessive consumption of some particular damaging substances. Limit your intake of carbonated drinks and fruit drinks. Whenever possible, drink soft drinks and alcoholic drinks with a straw so as to minimize damage to the teeth. Straws help to keep the soda from directly hitting the teeth.  Although you might think they are healthy, some fruit drinks contain highly erosive acids which can contribute to loss of enamel. Also try to avoid drinks with a lot of added sugar.  A high intake of herbal teas may have an erosive potential that is greater than acidic orange juice. Water helps to rinse away any enamel-eroding substances that your food or drinks might have contained. If you have been eating or drinking something that is acidic, take a few moments to rinse your mouth out afterwards. The faster you can rinse away these substances, the healthier your teeth will be.  The mouth is acidic for a few hours after consuming foods high in sugar and starches. If you don’t have any water handy, promoting saliva protection also works well. Saliva acts as a neutralizer that combats any acidic substances you might have consumed.  Drink more water throughout the day if you have a dry mouth or low saliva. Another way to neutralize the acids in your mouth after eating and drinking is to chew sugar free gum after meals. Chewing gum can dramatically increase the amount of saliva your produce, to up to ten times the normal amount. The minerals in saliva help to strengthen your teeth and wash away the acidic remains from food and drink.  Be sure the gum is sugar free and with the ingredient Xylitol. Limit your chewing to avoid potential problems with your jaw joints and grinding teeth. Friction and general wear and tear both contribution to enamel loss and erosion. Grinding your teeth causes friction, and abrasion can occur when you brush your teeth too hard. Other common causes of wear and tear are biting and chewing on hard objects, such as pens,...


Cut down on your use of hot styling tools. Leave your hair down whenever possible. Use shampoo only two to three times a week. Pat your hair dry after a shower. Get your hair trimmed once split ends appear. Switch to silk pillowcases.

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While they may make your hair look good for a few hours, hot styling tools like hair dryers, hair straighteners, and hair curlers can weaken your hair and hinder hair growth. Try to reduce your use of these tools or cut them out of your hair care routine. Do minimal hair styling, with minimal hair products, so your hair can stay healthy and grow out. If you decide to use hot styling tools, set them to a low heat setting, no higher than 325 degrees Fahrenheit, and apply a heat protectant spray, gel, or cream before you use the tool on your hair. This will help to protect your hair from drying out and breaking off. Pulling your hair back into a ponytail or a tight updo can lead to breakage and damaged strands. Rather than using clips, pins, and hair ties in your hair, go for a more relaxed look. Let your hair flow long and over time, it will grow out long and healthy. Reduce your shampoo use to only two to three times a week so you do not dry out or overwash your hair. This will allow your hair to stay strong and healthy, leading to better long term growth.  If your scalp gets oily or itchy due to underwashing, you can increase the amount of times you shampoo during the week. Alternatively, you can use dry shampoo to clean your scalp and hair in between washings. When you shampoo your hair, you should massage the shampoo into your scalp and try not to rub your hair with the shampoo. To keep your hair healthy, you should focus on conditioning your hair every time you shower. Conditioner is great for strengthen your hair, as it replaces the lipids and proteins in your hair shafts. You can also use a conditioning treatment to give your hair an extra boost, such as a treatment that contains natural ingredients to encourage hair growth and soothe your scalp. Rinse out your conditioner using cold water, which seals the cuticle. Avoid wrapping your wet hair tightly in a towel as doing this can cause breakage and put stress on the strands of your hair. Instead, use a dry towel to pat your hair so you do not tear, pull,...


Cut down the thistle to its base to stress the roots. Dig out the roots if you only have a few sprouts. Cover the area with plastic, cardboard, or 3 in (7.6 cm) of straw mulch. Plant grass seed to combat thistles in your yard or a field. Let livestock munch on your thistle if it’s in a large field. Introduce insects that eat thistle.

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Mow or cut the thistle right before or during the flowering stage so it can’t distribute its seeds. Then, cut it again as soon as you notice new growth. This will deplete the roots and make it hard for the thistle to survive.  If you’re dealing with creeping thistle, it’s best to cut it when it reaches 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) long. Typically, this will happen around early June. Don’t let the flowers dry out because they’ll spread thistle seeds. Since thistle can grow roots as deep as 20 ft (6.1 m) deep, it’s easiest to dig it up when it’s just started growing. Use a shovel or trowel to dig up the ground around the root system. Then, remove all of the roots and discard them in the trash.  If the roots already go deep, you'll likely need to use multiple strategies to get rid of your thistles. Dig up as much of the root system as you can. Then, watch the plot and immediately cut down any thistles that sprout back up. Don’t put thistle roots or part of the thistle plant in your compost pile. If you do, it will likely blossom in the compost pile and spread from there. Since thistle needs lots of sunlight to grow, mulching may prevent it from sprouting up. If you don’t mind covering an entire plot, use plastic mulch or pieces of cardboard to cover the thistle patch. If you’re trying to get rid of thistle in a border or flower bed, add several inches of mulch around your plants. This will allow the plants to continue to grow healthily while also choking off the thistles. When you first plant a border or bed, use plastic mulch around the plants to prevent thistle from sprouting up. This will take care of the problem before it starts back up. Thistles need a lot of sunlight and water, so competing plants can sometimes kill them. Grasses, especially alfalfa grass, are an easy option for adding competition to a large area. Sprinkle the grass seed over the plot and let it kill your thistles.  If you leave a plot empty, thistles will continue to grow there because it’s an ideal environment. It’s best to mow the plot...


Cut eight sails from ½” plywood. Use a drafting compass to draw a 6” circle on plywood. Divide the circle into 8 equal sections. Draw 45-degree angle marks on the rim of the circle. Flip the circle over. Use a jigsaw to cut along the slanted lines. Apply wood glue to the inside of each groove. Cut a tail from plywood. Cut out the tail with a jigsaw. Attach the tail to one end of a 1” wooden dowel. Paint or stain the windmill. Thread a 1” metal washer onto a long wood screw. Pre-drill a ⅛” hole in the other end of the dowel boom. Find the center of your windmill. Drill a ⅛” hole through the boom at the place you marked.

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These sails should be rectangles about 2” wide by 12” long. Using medium-grain sandpaper, sand the edges until smooth. Do not use MDF or chipboard as it will not hold up in outside weather. The circle should be 1” thick, so use 1” plywood or glue two ½” plywood circles together. Use a jigsaw to cut out the circle. Use a pencil and a ruler or straightedge to draw a line that divides the circle into two halves. Draw another line that divides it into quarters. Then draw two more lines to divide those quarters in half. When you’re finished, the lines on the circle should resemble a sliced pizza. Drill a ⅛” hole in the center of the circle. This should be the spot where all the lines you just drew intersect. Begin at each of the lines you drew in Step 3 and use a pencil to draw 45-degree angled lines across the edge. You may find it easiest to use a protractor or a “speed square” (a type of protractor used in construction). Repeat Step 3 on this side of the circle, placing your ruler at the other end of the 45-degree angled lines you just drew. When you’re finished, you should have two sets of lines that are offset from each other by about a half-inch. Each cut should be about 1” deep. Use a chisel or file to make sure these cuts are wide enough to fit the sails. To give the circle stability as you cut, you will probably want to clamp it to a worktable or large piece of wood set on two sawhorses. Move the clamp as needed. Center each sail in a groove and fit in place. Set aside and allow the glue to dry completely. This may take between 24-48 hours, depending on the humidity in your area. Once the glue has completely dried, you can use a chisel to remove any excess glue. The tail will be shaped like an elongated baseball “home plate.” Draw a 6” square on a piece of ½” plywood.  Place a ruler or straightedge at the top of the square 2” from the outer edge of the square. Tilt it to a 45-degree angle. Use a pencil to draw a straight line from the top of the square to the outer edge of the square. This should create a...


Cut four lengths of wire. Solder two wires onto one motor. Solder the other ends to the motor driver. Repeat for the other motor. Connect the battery holder.

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You'll need four pieces of insulated wire, with each end stripped. Read this section first to find out how each wire is connected, so you can cut each one to the right length. Typically, each wire should be about 5 inches (13cm) long. Solder one wire onto each of the two motor pins.  Read our guide on soldering electronics first if you don't have much soldering experience. Find the motor pins on the motor driver circuit that are labeled m1 and m2. Solder the other ends of the two wires onto these pins. If your driver does not have these labels, look for a diagram of your motor driver online. Solder the other two wires to the two pins on the second motor. Solder the other ends of these wires onto the driver pins labeled m3 and m4. The battery holder should have two attached wires, one positive (red) and one negative (black). Connect these as follows:  Connect the positive wire to the Vin pin on the Arduino Connect the negative wire to the Gnd (ground) pin on the Arduino


Cut into large slices. Cut watermelon into chunks. Try slicing wedges.

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Trim off one end of the watermelon using a sharp chef's knife, then cut 1-inch thick sections off the melon, across the middle. Cut these in half to make two half-moon shaped slices, or cut again into triangles. Hold by the rind and enjoy.  You can also cut down the middle of the watermelon long-ways, then cut extra-long sections of watermelon to dive into. They might be messy, so it's best to eat them outside. Some people also like to start in the center, cutting the melon in half to get right to the juiciest parts of the melon. This can be effective, especially if you've got a really big watermelon. There's no wrong way. What do you do with the melon in the end-piece? Scoop it out with a spoon. Another great and easy way to serve watermelon is to cut it up into bite-sized chunks and store them in a bowl. Cut big slices as normal, then use a smaller paring knife to remove the whitish-green rind from the melon. Cut into chunks that suit your taste.  Cut into cubes, triangles, or other shapes. Use butter knives with your kids to let them chop up watermelon into animal shapes, or letters. Or use cookie cutters for real fun. Some people like peeling the rind off before chunking up a watermelon. This can be done with a sharp chef's knife and some care, stabilizing the melon on a flat cut side, or it can be done with a vegetable peeler. One innovating way of cutting up watermelon involves chopping it as you might an onion or a potato. This is an excellent way of serving watermelon as finger-food at a slightly fancier affair, because it'll cause less mess.  Use a small rounded melon, or cut off an end-section of the melon no larger than about a half-basketball size. Place the melon cut-side down on the cutting board. Make cross-hatch cuts in the melon, spaced about 1-inch apart. Cut straight across the melon at 1-inch intervals going on direction, then make perpendicular cuts in the other directions. Serve as is. Have guests pull out the long-skinny sections to munch on and provide a bowl for the rinds.


Cut it down. Remove technical language. Make sure the structure is logical. Carefully proofread.

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A briefing paper should only be about two pages. If, after you are done, the paper is longer than this, your first pass through for editing purposes should look for places to cut it down.  Look for information that is off topic or less important and remove that material, especially if it doesn't relate to the solution(s) you offer. By the same token, make sure there aren't key pieces of information missing that are necessary to make your argument clear and convincing. You may need to swap out one piece of information for another. Try to put yourself in the shoes of a politician or bureaucrat as you edit. Think about how many pieces of information these individuals receive every day. Don't contribute to the problem. Be part of the solution by providing the information necessary to make a decision--no more, no less. As you edit, keep an eye out for technical language or jargon that could make your paper less accessible. Even if you sought to avoid this in writing the paper, it's possible that some challenging language made its way into the document.  Especially if you are an expert on a topic you are writing about, it's easy to forget, at least momentarily, that language that is every day for you may be difficult for others to understand.  Keep in mind that it is likewise not always immediately obvious why something is important to people who aren't already familiar with a topic. Policy makers usually can't be experts on every topic they have to make decisions about. Ensure that the key facts you have included flow logically from the issue, as you have summarized it. Be doubly certain that any solutions you propose address those key considerations as well. After dealing with the length and flow of the paper, give it one more careful look to ensure that it is free of all errors. A paper with spelling, style, or grammatical errors may be taken less seriously by your reader. You may be doing more harm than good by submitting such a paper, as it may discredit your perspective.


Cut meat into thin strips to make jerky. Choose a meat marinade. Mix the marinade ingredients separately. Place strips on the dehydrator racks, without overlapping.

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Most recipes have a high salt content combined with combination black pepper, brown sugar and sauces. Spread the marinade generously, on all surfaces of the meat. Store in a covered glass dish for 12 hours. Dry for 4 hours at 60 to 70 degrees Celsius (140 to 160 degrees Fahrenheit). Check jerky. Dry for the remainder of the time at 54 degrees Celsius (130 degrees Fahrenheit).  Jerky is done when it cracks, not breaks, when you bend it. Jerky will last between 1 and 2 months, but can be frozen to last longer.


Cut off a 4 to 6 in (10 to 15 cm) piece of floral wire. Pinch the end of the circle together in your non-dominant hand.

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Set it to the side somewhere it can be easily found later on. This is the wire you will use at the end to hold your entire bow together. If you don't have floral wire, you could also use a pipe cleaner. Where the end of the ribbon touches the rest of the ribbon, pinch that seam together and hold it between the fingers of your non-dominant hand. This leaves your dominant hand free to shape the rest of the bow. You're going to use your non-dominant hand to hold together the fabric the entire time you're making the bow.


Cut off a 4 to 6 in (10 to 15 cm) piece of floral wire. Stop making loops on an even number.

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Leave this piece of wire off to the side somewhere you can find it easily later on. You'll use it to secure your bow once you're finished making it. If you don't have floral wire, use a pipe cleaner. Make anywhere from 6-10 loops (or more, if you're going for a really large bow!) before you stop. The even number helps create symmetry in your bow.


Cut off a large section of brown parchment paper to create your map.

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You can make your map as large or as little as you like, just as long as you have enough space to write and draw. It will be ripped and crumpled, so it’s okay if you cut crookedly. If you don’t have parchment paper, you could also use heavy duty stock paper or a brown paper bag.


Cut off a lemon quarter and rinse it well. Puree an entire preserved lemon with the salt. Use it to add flavor to chicken and fish dishes.

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If you want to add something tart to your meal, a simple preserved lemon quarter will do just the trick. Remove the lemon quarter from the jar and rinse it under cold running water to remove excess salt.  If you wish, use a sharp knife to slice the lemon quarter into very thin slices. A little goes a long way, and one lemon quarter will provide enough lemon to divide among three or four serving plates. Pureed preserved lemon is excellent when mixed into sauces. Remove a lemon and place it in your food processor. Puree the lemon until you have a fine, grainy paste. Store the paste in a small jar, and spoon a little into the sauce or dressing of your choice.  Pureed preserved lemon is excellent in marinades. Or use it to add some punch to your favorite salad dressing. Preserved lemons are typically paired with spicy meat and fish dishes. The extra tart flavor from the lemons makes a regular dish taste extraordinary. Try using preserved lemons in the following ways:  Place two preserved lemon slices on top of a fish filet before grilling or baking. Make a rub for grilled chicken using preserved 1 tablespoon lemon puree mixed with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add pepper to taste. Serve any grilled meat dish with a few thin slices of preserved lemon on the side.


Cut off a piece of stem 6 inches (15 cm) long. Dry the cutting for 48 hours in a warm, dry place. Fill a pot with half peat moss and half sand. Put the pot in a location with 6 hours of indirect sunlight per day.

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Pick a healthy stem at least 6 inches (15 cm) long. Use a sharp pair of pruning shears to cut the stem where it where it connects to the trunk. One pruning session can result in many stems that you can propagate into their own adenium plants! Lay the cut stems on a newspaper or paper towel and keep them out of direct sunlight. Store them in a place that is warm but is not humid. They should be dried out and ready to use within 2 days. Peat moss and sand create a well-draining planting medium. You can substitute the sand with fine gravel or perlite for a similar effect. Lay a thin layer of gravel on the bottom of the pot so the pot drains more efficiently. You can use a store-bought mixture meant for cacti or succulents if you do not want to mix your own. The cuttings can be kept indoors or outdoors as long as they stay in a warm and bright place, but keep them out of direct sunlight. As they begin to sprout new leaves, you can begin moving the adeniums into more direct sunlight. If you keep the adenium indoors, turn the pot 180° every 2 days so it will evenly get sunlight.


Cut off any excess string or wire. Finish each strand with a bead or charm. Tie a loose knot or loop at the top of the strand. Tie each strand to a craft ring, pole, or strong wire to display them.

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Leave a minimum of 6 inches (15 cm) of string to hang the strand. If there is more than this at the top of your strand, use the scissors or shears to trim the excess. If you want your senbazuru to hang longer, you can leave more string at the top. It depends on how long you want the finished product to be. When you have strung all the cranes on each strand, you will need to finish it. Add a bead or charm to the top. Loop the thread through the bead, and then tie a knot above the bead. This will prevent the bead, and the cranes, from sliding off the end of the strand. Hang the strand from a hook, nail, chair, or doorknob to keep it neat. This will keep all the strands together and make the senbazuru easier to display. Hang the craft ring, pole, or wire wherever you want to display the senbazuru.  If you prefer, you can hang each strand individually on the wall or place them in a frame. If you are using the senbazuru as a wedding decoration, you can tie each strand to a pole or strong wire and then hang the wire or pole at the wedding venue. Many people also hang the senbazuru strands from a gazebo or the altar at weddings.


Cut off contact. Detox from social media. Put away the memories. Try not to talk about them.

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After the breakup is behind you, go cold turkey and stop contacting your ex. It won't do either of you any good carrying on contact right away. Even if you choose to be friends in the future, it's best to take time apart to rediscover who you are in your own. Remove your ex from your contacts list on your phone, email, and other media. Pulling the plug on social media can be good for the spirit, especially following a split. Resist the urge to lurk on your ex’s page, check up on their friends, or spend hours looking at your old pictures together. Taking a short detox can help you move forward without  suffering. Some people are tempted to publicize their breakups or make their exes jealous through social media. Logging off for a week or so can help you avoid any drama you might later regret. The next order of business is getting some distance from things that remind you of your ex. Sort through any gifts and mementos and decide whether to return, trash, or store them. Letting go of the person you broke it off with also means cutting down on the amount of time you spend talking about them. Challenge yourself to gradually stop saying their name or retelling stories about them.  Ask your friends and family members to gently remind you when you keep bringing up the person's name. You can also put a rubber band on your wrist and snap it against your skin whenever you say your ex’s name to distinguish the behavior.


Cut off dead wood in a cold-weather climate. Prune away everything but 3–4 canes for a few large blooms. Cut away all but 5–12 canes for a large, bushy rose bush. Prune clustered areas for a large number of short-stemmed flowers.

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If you live in a cold climate, your choices for maintaining the appearance of a rose bush are limited. Simply cut away all of the dead wood that has died over the winter. This will open up the rose bush, and allow air to be drawn all the way into the bush, leading to better growth during the spring.  Dead wood will be brittle to the touch, and will not show any emerging buds. If you need some guidance on what your breed of rose bush should look like, visit a nearby botanical garden or public garden, and see how those bushes have been pruned. If you live in a warmer climate, you have more options regarding pruning. If you’d like to have a small number of large, beautiful, well-developed roses, prune the bush severely. Leave each of the remaining 3–4 canes about 6–10 inches (15–25 cm) high.  When choosing the 3 or 4 canes to remain in the ground, select ones that point in different directions. A rosebush “cane” is a stalk or stem of an individual rose plant. If you’re less concerned about the appearance of the individual roses and more concerned with a well-developed rose bush, opt to prune the bush moderately. Leave the 5–12 canes between 18–24 inches (46–61 cm) high. For a more uniform bush, trim all of the canes to the same height. For example, the canes could all be 20 inches (51 cm) high. If you’d like a well-developed rose bush, filled with plenty of clustering, small flowers, opt to only prune the bush lightly. Leave all of the canes in the ground, and just trim some of the more densely clustered areas. For a light pruning, aim to thin out the rose bush by removing less than a third of the stems.


Cut off power from the breaker or fuse box to avoid injury. Connect doorbell wires to the chimes. Secure the chimes into position. Attach the doorbell switch near your door. Attach the wires so that the transformer is connected to both the chime and the doorbell. Attach the switch and chimes with twist wire connectors. Restore power and test the doorbell.

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Make sure that the circuits that supply electricity to the power sources you are working with are shut off before starting the installation. Turn off the appropriate switches at your breaker panel or fuse box. Test light switches or other outlets in the area to make sure the power is off. Remove the cover on the chimes, and run the wires through the guide channel to the correct terminals. Wrap the ends of the wires around the appropriate terminals. Screw the holding screws into position.  You can choose from a variety of door chimes with different dimensions and sound options. Many models of chimes will include small wiring diagrams printed inside to help with installation. The cover should pull off the chimes easily without the use of tools. For future reference, label the wires by writing where each one is meant to go (e.g. transformer, doorbell switch) on small pieces of masking tape attached to each one. Make sure that you can run the wiring attached to your chimes to your transformer. Hold the new chimes on the spot that you want to attach them and use the screws provided to attach the device to the wall or ceiling. Once the chime plate is secured, fit the cover over the device and gently push until it snaps into place. Choose a location for your doorbell switch near your entrance way. Drill a hole to run the wires coming out of the back of the switch into the wall, toward the chimes and transformer. Most models will have screws included to secure the plate into position. Install the screws with an electric drill, then slide the cover over the device until it snaps into position. Carefully wrap the ends of the wires around the transformer terminals. This small metal device will convert the AC power coming from the door switch to a lower voltage power to power the chimes.Transformers are often mounted directly onto an electrical box to keep high voltage wires enclosed. Use plastic twist wire connectors to easily link wires between the switch and chimes. Bring the ends of both wires together and place the...


Cut off the blossom ends of the cucumbers. Combine the ingredients in a large bowl. Stir the ingredients together. Let the ingredients stand for up to two hours in room temperature. Transfer the cucumbers into three 1 1/2 pint wide mouth jars. Pour the liquid from the bowl into the jar. Place a sprig of dill into each jar. Seal the lids. Refrigerate. Serve.

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The blossom end has the small brown circle on it. The end has an enzyme that can make your pickles softer, and a bit more soggy, which inhibits the pickling process. Mix in ten 5–6 inch (12.7–15.2 cm) pickling cucumbers, 2 cups of water, 1 3/4 cups of white vinegar, 1 1/2 cups of chopped fresh dill,  1/2 cup of white sugar, 8 cloves of chopped garlic, 1 1/2 tbsp. of coarse salt, 1 tbsp. of pickling spice, 1 1/2 tsp. of dill seed, and 1/2 tsp. of red pepper flakes. Stir thoroughly to combine the ingredients. This will be long enough for the salt and sugar to dissolve. Distribute them as evenly as you can -- three pickles in two jars, and four pickles in the third. The pickles should be completely submerged in the liquid. This will add even more of a dill flavor to the pickles. Make sure to seal them tightly. These pickles should be refrigerated for at least 10 days before you eat them. After that, they will last one month. Enjoy these simple dill pickles as a side with your next sandwich.


Cut off the damaged leaves and suckers. Stick your hand into the soil to hold onto the root ball. Tip the pot over while pulling the plant out. Use a pencil or a knife to jar the violet loose.

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Take the time to prune your violets before moving them. Locate the oldest leaves, which are at the bottom of the plant. The suckers will be on the stem underneath it. Use scissors or shears to cut the suckers close to the stem, followed by discolored, damaged, or small leaves. Consider removing most or all of the flowers and flower buds as well. Blooms take a lot of energy to maintain, so removing them during the repotting process can help your violets grow long-term as they adapt to new surroundings. African violet leaves are delicate, so avoid touching them. Instead, put on a pair of gardening gloves. Work your hand into the soil, feeling out the root ball and lower stem. Hold onto them with 1 hand. While you can water the soil to make this part easier, it is usually better to hold off. The water also softens the violet’s roots and stem. Be very gentle to avoid damaging your violets. Hold the bottom end of the pot with your free hand. Tip the pot upside down and attempt to move the plant away from it. Tap the pot’s bottom or, if it is plastic, squeeze it a little. If the violet doesn’t come out, don’t force it. Some pots have drainage holes on the bottom. Push the blunt end of a pencil or similar object into the holes to nudge the violet’s roots loose. Otherwise, slide a butter knife around the edge of the pot, being careful to avoid touching the violet as much as possible.


Cut off the end of the rectangle. Measure and cut 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) sections across the rectangle. Stack the strips until you are ready to use them.

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Place your clear ruler across the shorter area of the rectangle so that it is about 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) from the edge. Then, run the rotary cutter along the edge of the ruler to cut this 0.5 in (1.3 cm) strip off of the rectangle. After you remove the end piece, turn the piece of fabric around and begin cutting 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) sections all the way across the rectangle. You can make your strips smaller or larger if desired by increasing or decreasing the width of the strips. Make sure to cut across the shortest portion of the rectangle. In other words, cut width-wise, not lengthwise. After you cut the strips, stack them up and tie them with the first 0.5 in (1.3 cm) piece of fabric that you cut. This will keep the bias binding strips together until you are ready to use them.


Cut off the ends of the squash. Peel the skin and cut the squash in half. Cut the top in half. Spiralize the squash and put it in a bowl. Add water to the bowl and cover. Microwave the squash for 5 minutes. Let the spiralized squash cool and serve it.

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Use a sharp chef’s knife or a serrated knife, and use a gentle sawing motion. Discard the ends. Hold the knife handle with your middle, ring and pinky finger, and use your thumb and index finger to hold the blade. The "blade grip," as it's called, offers more control and balance than using every finger to hold the handle. Using a vegetable peeler, peel and discard all of the skin from the squash. With a sharp chef's knife or a serrated knife, cut the top away from the bottom, so that you have one small piece and one large piece. Reserve the bottom for a different recipe, as it’s difficult to spiralize. Laying the squash top on its side (like a rolling pin), cut the top into two equal pieces. This will help the squash fit in the spiralizer. Spiralizers come in different shapes and sizes. Cut your squash to fit your spiralizer. Use the largest setting on your spiralizer and transfer the spiralized squash into a microwave-safe bowl. Add half a cup of water into the bowl, then cover the bowl with microwave-safe plastic wrap. The squash should be able to be pierced with a fork. Drain the water from the bowl. Spiralized butternut squash works as a pasta substitute, a topping for toast, or a standalone side dish.


Cut off the excess.

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Use the scissors to trim the excess off the ends. You can leave the knot on top or tuck it underneath the bracelet if you want.


Cut off the peeling faux leather with a razor blade. Apply leather soft filler to the peeled area with a putty knife. Push the soft filler off of the furniture seams and smooth the surface. Let the soft filler cure for 20 minutes. Apply a second layer of soft filler to the patch you’re repairing. Add texture to the repair job by pressing plastic wrap against it. Apply leather paint to the repaired patch with a damp sponge.

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Before repairing the faux leather, you’ll first need to remove all of the flaking pieces. Use your fingers and a razor blade to peel, scrape, and cut away the peeling sections of faux leather from your chair or sofa. Don’t slice off more faux leather than necessary, though. Only remove what’s already loose and flaking.  You can purchase 5-packs of razor blades at most hardware stores. Exercise caution when using a razor blade and never cut towards yourself. Scoop out a 1 inch (2.5 cm) dollop of soft filler with a putty knife. Still using the knife, smear the filler across the peeled section of the leather furniture. Smooth out the filler so that it’s a uniform thickness across the peeled section. Try not to get filler on the unpeeled sections of the faux leather. Soft filler will bond with the base fabric of the faux leather and create a new vinyl-like surface. You can purchase it at any leather store and at many craft supply stores. If you happened to apply any filler to the furniture’s seams, you can use a stiff piece of paper to rub if off. Use the edge of an index or business card to push filler out of the seam. Then, run the long edge of the card over the top of the fabric you’re repairing to smooth out the layer of filler. Clearing the seams and feathering the edges of the soft filler will give the repair job a more professional look. The filler will cure relatively quickly. It’s important that you don’t touch the filler while it’s curing. If you have small children or pets in your home, keep them out of the room with the curing filler. If you’re repairing a small chair, you could move the chair outdoors and let it sit in the sun if the weather is pleasant. This will speed up the curing process. Once the first layer has dried, use your putty knife to apply a second thick layer of filler to the leather. As before, avoid spreading the filler onto undamaged parts of the faux leather. Tear off a 12 in (30 cm) piece of plastic wrap and warp it around your hand. Press your plastic-covered palm against the...


Cut off ties. Confront them. Take the chance to pursue new friendships.

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If you’ve determined that your friends are really trying to ditch you, then it might be time to let these relationships just fade away. You can cut down on your hang out time with them and minimize any text contact. If they are already avoiding you, then this is usually non-dramatic way of ending things. If you feel wronged by your friends or are worried that there is some sort of miscommunication, you might want to talk with them as a group or one-on-one. Tell them what you’ve noticed lately about their behaviors. Ask them how they think friends should act. Try to come up with a specific plan to improve your friendship, such as always responding to texts within a day.  Having this type of conversation can get awkward. You might start by saying, “Is everything okay?” This is a non-confrontational way of getting them to start talking. Try to be understanding and avoid blaming your friends for everything or they may get defensive and the conversation could turn negative. Keep the focus of your statements on yourself. For example, "I feel" and "I think." Don't accuse them with statements like "You always" or "You never." Try to find potential friends who have similar interests to you and who seem open to hanging out often. Don’t expect to be best friends with a new person right away, but stay hopeful that it could happen down the road.


Cut off your teen’s allowance if the money is used for cigarettes. Do not allow smoking in your home. Suggest your teen spend less time with friends who smoke. Encourage your teen to focus more on school and extracurricular activities.

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Yelling at your teen and informing them that they cannot smoke may not be the most effective solution, as this could only cause them to rebel against you more and continue smoking. Instead, think about ways where you can restrict or limit your teen’s access to cigarettes and make it more difficult for them to get their hands on a pack of smokes. This may mean cutting off your teen’s allowance so they cannot use your money to buy cigarettes. Cutting off their allowance may also make it harder for them to buy other things for themselves and they may end up getting frustrated enough that they will agree to not buy cigarettes if that means they can get their allowance back. You may also try to regulate your teen’s spending so you can try to dissuade them from buying cigarettes. For example, if your teen asks you for money to spend on school books, go shopping together for the books and pay attention to how your teen is spending the money. Make sure their money goes towards healthy habits and items that will benefit them, rather than cigarettes. Though you may not want to dole out harsh punishment for your teen at the risk of encouraging them to smoke more, you can put controls in place at home to discourage them from smoking.  You may tell them that under no circumstances is smoking allowed in your home, under your roof. You may also inform them that if you catch them smoking in their room or in the house, you are going to confiscate the smokes and adjust their curfew so they have to come home earlier on the weekends. These rules may upset them, but it is one way that you can exert your authority over the situation. If you smoke, you should be a good role model and practice what you preach. Take your smoking habit outside or make an effort to quit. Your teen will notice if you break your own rules, so try to follow them yourself and lead by example. Teens often start smoking due to being around friends who also smoke. You can try to instruct your teen not to hang around friends who smoke, but this may backfire...


Cut old towels or washcloths into 6 in (15 cm) squares. Store the squares in an airtight container until you're ready to use them. Use 1 sheet per laundry load.

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You can also use other types of cotton fabric, such as flannel, old T-shirts, or quilter's cotton. You can cut however many fabric squares you want, but 12 or so will do. This container can be anything you want it to be: a plastic box, an old baby wipes container, or even a glass jar. You can crumple the sheets up and stuff them in, roll them into tight bundles, or fold them up into neat squares. The next time you do laundry, take a sheet and toss it into the dryer along with the rest of the laundry. Start a cycle like you normally would. When the cycle finishes, take the sheet out and put it back into the container with the other sheets. Each sheet will last about 3 loads. After that, you'll have to re-soak the sheets.


Cut one board in half lengthwise. Pry up the remaining boards individually. Extract all nails and staples. Clean and store the salvaged wood.

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If your hardwood flooring is still in good condition, you may decide that it’s worth keeping and putting to use elsewhere. To successfully salvage hardwood, you’ll need to first saw one board straight down the middle along its length. After tearing out both halves of this board, you’ll have a sufficient amount of space to begin working on the others.  It may be necessary to sacrifice one or two boards to put you in a position to remove the others. Dig out a central board and work outward in both directions. Start at one end of the board and work your way down, keeping the tip of the pry bar positioned directly beneath the nails or staples. You’ll want to pull up on the boards rather gingerly to prevent them from splintering. Work slowly, doing your best to keep each board intact.  Move the pry bar along about half a foot at a time, focusing on areas that are held down by fasteners or adhesives. Preserving your flooring is a time consuming process, but the payoff is a fresh supply of useful hardwood. Once you’ve got all the boards up, go through them one at a time and ease out the fasteners that were used to secure them. The best tools for this task are a nail claw or the back of a hammer and a pair of locking pliers. Be patient—it will take a while to remove every last nail and staple.  Work slowly and delicately to avoid causing unnecessary damage to the wood. Use a handheld magnet to speed up the collection and disposal of small metal pieces. From here, you’re free to hang onto the hardwood or employ it in other projects. Wipe down each board with a damp cloth and keep them in a cool, dry environment until you’re ready to use them. If you wish, you can polish or sand and stain older wood to restore it like-new condition.  Recycled wood can be used to provide flooring for another room in your home, create unique, rustic wall paneling, construct a garden footpath or any number of other projects.  In some cases, you may be able to sell reclaimed wood to other companies or individuals seeking inexpensive...


Cut open Insert the pomegranate into a bowl filled with water. Separate the seeds from the rind. Pulse the seeds Strain the juice into an airtight container. Store your juice in a refrigerator.

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the pomegranate. At the top and bottom of the pomegranate, the rind thickens and can be cut away. Remove the rind until you see the red seeds inside the pomegranate. Then cut the pomegranate into wedges.  Pomegranate juice is bright red. It tends to stain things, so be careful when handling it. You may want to wear an apron and gloves while doing this. Clean juice that’s gotten onto counters and other kitchen surfaces immediately with soapy water to prevent stains from forming. Take a large bowl and fill it with water. Your bowl should be large enough to accommodate all of the pomegranate wedges. Put the wedges into the water. Remove any large pieces of rind that float free. The rind of the pomegranate floats in water, but seeds sink to the bottom. Use your clean hands to knock seeds from the rind into the bottom of the bowl. Pick rind out of the water. Do this until all rind has been removed. in a blender. Drain the water from your bowl of seeds. Transfer your seeds to a blender. Close the blender and pulse it no more than a few times. Blending the seeds for too long will cause your juice to become cloudy. Position a fine mesh strainer over an airtight container. Pour your seeds from your blender through the mesh strainer and into the airtight container. After the juice has drained, use a wooden spoon to press the pulp into the mesh to release juice trapped inside the pulp. Refrigerated, your juice should stay good for several days. Add your juice to seltzer water for a refreshing drink. Drizzle some pomegranate juice on spring salads to add a refreshing tartness to them.


Cut open an empty paper towel tube from top-to-bottom. Cut the circles out with 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) seam allowances.

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Find an empty paper towel tube and remove any bits of paper that may still be clinging to it. Cut a straight slit going from top-to-bottom with scissors so that you can open the tube into a flat sheet. If you want a smaller pencil case, you can use an empty toilet paper tube instead. You will only be able to keep small items in it, like erasers or crayons, however. This simply means that you cut the circles with a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) wide border all around. If you need to, sketch a new cutting line around the circles first, then cut the circles out. You won't be sewing the case, but you still need the seam allowances in order to glue the circles down.


Cut or copy the desired text. Locate Paste Special. Select a paste option.

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This will move or copy the data to the clipboard. Paste Special is a suite of options for formatting pasted text in your destination software. How to access these options will vary depending on the software in use.  In Microsoft Office 2007 and later this is located in Home > Paste menu (the arrow underneath the clipboard icon) > Paste Special… In newer versions a small clipboard icon may appear at the end of the text after pasting. Formatting can be selected here after the fact.  In OpenOffice this is located in File > Edit > Paste Special. Google Docs has a similar option located in Edit > Paste Special, but only works for copy/paste within the browser. Depending on the software you are using, the options will have different nomenclature. Different options will treat the pasted formatting differently.  To retain all formatting from the text, press “Keep Source Formatting” or “HTML Format” To retain only the text formatting, but not pictures, press “Keep Text Only”. If both documents have special formatting, like lists or tables that you want to combine, press “Merge Formatting.”


Cut other pieces of felt to cover the headband.

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You can leave the headband as is if you like. However, if you want it to have a more finished look, take more of the dark colored felt and cut out several longer strips that you can wrap around the exposed headband. You don’t necessarily have to use the same felt that you used for the ears to cover the headband. For example, you might want to use satin ribbon to cover the headband.


Cut out a 9 by 3 in (22.9 by 7.6 cm) rectangle of stiff fabric. Cut a 3 by 1 in (7.6 by 2.5 cm) strip of fabric for the center of the bow. Fold the rectangle in half so that the short edges are lined up. Squeeze in the bow at the center. Glue the bow between the folds with a hot glue gun. Secure the strip of fabric around the center of the bow with hot glue.

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Choose a stiff fabric, such a felt, wool, linen, faux leather, or quilted cotton. This will create a bow tie that is about 4.5 by 3 in (11.4 by 7.6 cm). Measure and mark the fabric with a ruler and some chalk or a pen. Then, use a sharp pair of scissors to cut your fabric. If you want a larger bow tie, cut a larger rectangle of fabric. Use a 3 to 1 ratio for length and width and make the length twice the desired length of the finished bow tie. For example, if you want your bow tie to be 6 by 4 in (15 by 10 cm), then cut out a fabric rectangle that is 12 by 4 in (30 by 10 cm). This length will work for most size bow ties because you only need to wrap it around the center of the bow tie. For a bow tie that is larger than 4.5 by 3 in (11.4 by 7.6 cm), start with these dimensions as a base. Then, add 1 in (2.5 cm) to the length and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) to the width.  For example, if you are making a bow tie that is 6 by 4 in (15 by 10 cm), then you might cut a strip of fabric that is 1.5 by 4 in (3.8 by 10.2 cm). Remember that you can always trim the strip down to suit your tie, but you cannot add fabric back on. Lay the rectangle out on a flat surface, and then fold 1 end of the rectangle over to the opposite end. Line up the edges of the rectangle and hold it in this position with 1 hand. You can also place a weight on the tie to keep it folded if you need to do something else before continuing. However, do not use pins. They may damage the fabric and you will not be able to complete the bow tie with a pin in place. With your other hand, pick up the rectangle at the center and squeeze it in to create 3 even folds. The center should look like an accordion when you do this. There should be 3 distinct, even folds in the center of the tie. Keep holding the tie at the center with 1 hand to keep it folded. Heat up the hot glue gun about 15 minutes before you plan to use it. When the glue gun is warmed up, loosen your grip on the center of the tie slightly to expose the area between the folds. Then, apply a dot of hot glue...


Cut out a piece of fabric that's 2" larger than your journal on every side. Start gluing the top and bottom edges. Glue the left and right edges, too. Start covering the raw edges of the inside covers. Glue the fabric to the cardboard. Apply plenty of glue to the back side of each piece of cardboard and put them into place. Decorate your fabric cover.

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Open your notebook so the front and back are next to each other. Set it in the middle of your piece of fabric and grab your ruler, measuring 2" (5cm) more on each side. Make a line all around your journal, forming a large rectangle that's 2" wider than your notebook. Then, cut along this line. With your notebook still centered on the piece of fabric and 2" sticking out on either side, apply glue to the top and bottom flaps (the exposed 2 inches). Fold the top in first, and then fold in the bottom. Use plenty of glue; you don't want it coming up later. If you have one handy, use a foam paintbrush to spread the glue evenly over the fabric. That way it won't clump and be visible from the outside. With more glue placed on the left and right edges, fold up the flaps and attach them to the inside of the notebook cover. Do this for both the front and back covers.  You may want to crease triangles into the corners much like you're gift wrapping a present to give it a professional touch. You'll notice that where the binding is looks a little weird. To remedy this, cut two slits in the fabric where the spine is and get rid of this small square of fabric. Right now the inside of your journal probably looks less than perfect – it's just the exposed, raw edges of fabric and nothing else. To get rid of this, we'll cover it with cardboard and fabric. To get started:  Cut out two pieces of lightweight cardboard or heavy cardstock that's about 1" (2.5cm) smaller than the front and back cover. Cut out two pieces of fabric (a different fabric) that's 1-2" (2.5-5cm) larger than the cardboard you just cut out. Center the cardboard on the fabric and follow much the same method you did with your journal. Apply glue to the edges and fold in. In this case, it doesn't matter if you turn the corners into triangles or not – they won't be seen anyway. You'll only see the side of cardboard that's completely covered. Do this for both pieces of cardboard – one for the front and one for the back. The side covered in fabric will go face up on...


Cut out a piece of pattern paper and fold it in 1/2 vertically. Trace around the folded piece of the garment. Remove the item and draw a bold line over the one you traced. Cut out each pattern piece.

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Cut a piece of paper that's larger than your garment and fold it. Then, lay the paper on a flat work surface instead of on carpet or a rug. If you don't have pattern paper, you could use brown postal wrapping paper. You could work on a stiff corkboard if you'd like to be able to pin the garment onto the paper as you work. Use a pencil, chalk, or tracing wheel to trace around the seams of the panel that you folded and pinned. Don't try to trace every panel of the item at this point. If you can't trace around a seam because there's another panel of fabric connected to it, you'll need to fold up the excess fabric or use the tracing wheel. Roll the tracing wheel directly over the garment since the wheel won't damage the fabric. Take each of the pins out so you can lift away the garment. Use a pen to draw over the traced line so it's easier to see. Now you can label the pattern piece.  For example, write on the piece, "center front piece." You can also mark any lines that are specific to that piece. For example, draw a curved line to indicate where the neckline meets the fold. Use a sharp pair of scissors to cut out each of the pieces. Remember to keep the paper folded as needed so you don't accidentally cut your pattern pieces in 1/2. If you prefer, place a cutting mat under the pieces and use a rotary cutter instead of scissors.