Launch your AoE2HD game through Steam. Enter Multiplayer mode. Create a game that others can join. Select the Game Settings you want. Start the LAN game.

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Once you've added the game code to Steam, it will be added to your list of games on the left panel in the Games Library. Select the game, and on the right panel, click “Play.” On the game's main menu, click “Multiplayer.” This will display three multiplayer game options: Quick Match, Lobby Browser, and Create.  The “Quick Match” option quickly enters you into a game with other Steam users based on the preferences you choose. “Lobby Browser” lists ongoing games so you can choose one and join in. The “Create” option allows you to create a game that other players can join in. These players maybe on the same LAN as you or not, as long as they have a Steam account and are logged in. Select the “Create” option to bring up the Create Game dialog box. On the dialog box, under “Visibility,” select either:  “Public” to create a game that anyone can join whether or not they are on the same local LAN as you. You can set how many players (the maximum is seven) who can join using the settings on the next page. You are also free to include computer players. “Friends” to create a game that only your friends on Steam can join. The friends can join whether or not they are on the same LAN. “Private” to create a game that only users you invite can join. If you select this, invite players by clicking the “Invite” button at the bottom of the Game Settings page. Type in the Steam username of the player you want to invite, and click “Invite.” The user will be notified through their Steam account that you have requested a game. They can then join your game using the Lobby Browser feature. Once you're done select and or inviting, click the “Create” button at the bottom of the dialogue box to proceed to the Game Settings page. Examples of settings you can select include:   Map style—the type of a map to use, e.g., standard or real world map.  Game difficulty level—the skill level of the computer players (in any) in your game.  Max. allowed population—the maximum number of units each player can create.  Game speed—how quickly game time...


Launch your device’s app store. Search for “ZappoTV. Download ZappoTV.

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You can use either the Apple App store if you’re using an iOS device or Google Play for those using Android. Find the app store icon on your device and tap on it to open. ” The first app on the list should be the one. Tap on it. Tap on the "Install" button to download and install the app onto your device.


Lay a drop cloth underneath your painting area. Cover any areas you don’t want camouflaged with tape. Sand and clean your painting surface. Paint a layer of primer onto your surface and let it dry. Apply a base coat of the lightest color you have. Let the first coat dry for 1 hour before applying a second coat.

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Work in a well-ventilated space. Set a painter’s drop cloth on the floor so you don’t accidentally get paint on a different surface. Make sure the cloth is completely flat so it doesn’t create a tripping hazard.  Drop cloths can be purchased from your local hardware store. If you don’t have a drop cloth, an old bed sheet works as well. Move any objects that you can out of the space so paint doesn’t get on them by accident. Use masking tape or blue painter’s tape to cover any areas you want to preserve. Cut the tape to match the shape of the area if you need to. Overlap each of the pieces of tape by half so paint can’t get through the gaps. If you’re covering a large area, such as a car windshield, use plastic sheeting and secure the edges with tape. Use a 400-grit sandpaper to scuff your painting surface so the spray paint adheres to the material. Work the sandpaper in small, concentric circles until your entire surface is smooth. When you’re finished sanding, use a dry cloth to wipe the surface free of debris.  Use a scuff pad instead of sandpaper if you have a softer or more delicate work surface such as thin metal or plastics. You only need to sand plastic if it was previously painted. If you’re painting metal, make sure to completely remove any rust. Pick an all-purpose primer safe for interior and exterior use. Hold the can of spray bonding primer 12 inches (30 cm) from your painting surface and press the button on top. Move in quick back and forth motions across the surface to coat it in a thin layer. Coat the entire surface you want to camouflage with the primer and let it dry for at least 1 hour. Use spray paint outdoors or work in a well-ventilated area. Hold the can 12 inches (30 cm) from your paint surface. Work in short back and forth strokes across your work surface. Overlap each stroke by at least half so primer doesn’t show through. Continue working across your work surface until it’s entirely painted. Give the base coat of paint at least 1 hour to dry so as not to smear the paint. When adding...


Lay a microfiber cloth down in front of you. Place the top lash strip over your eyelashes. Put on the bottom lash strip. Remove the lashes.

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Wherever you're applying your lashes, lay a microfiber cloth down in front of you. Set your magnetic false eyelashes on this cloth. If they fall while you're applying them, they'll be easier to find if they land on the cloth. The top lash strip should be labeled with a dot or other marking. Refer to your package's instructions to figure out how your top strip is labeled. Remove the top strip and place it just over your eyelashes near the outer corner of your eye. Get the top lash strip as close to your lash line as possible. The bottom lash strip will be marked by a different color dot. Use your thumb and index finger to pick up the bottom lash strip. Place it just underneath the top lash strip. The magnets should click in place. When you want to remove the lashes, gently grab them between your thumb and index finger. Shift them between your fingers until you feel the magnets come apart. Then, carefully pull the magnetic lashes away from your eyelashes. Magnetic eye lashes are reusable and can be used multiple times before they need replacing. When you take them out, put them back in their original container for later use. Keep the container in a safe space where it will not get damaged.


Lay a piece of paper down on the map and mark it. Hold your measurement up to the bar scale. Interpret the largest portion of distance from the primary scale. Read the extension scale for the smaller numbers.

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Place a straight edge of a piece of paper onto your map. Line up the edge with both the first (“point A”) and second (“point B”) points you want to measure the distance between, then make a tick mark on the paper where each point is.  Make sure your piece of paper is long enough to make your 2 tick marks. Note that this method works better for shorter line distances. Hold the edge of the paper still on the map and mark as accurately as possible where the paper lines up to your 2 points. Locate the bar scale on your topographic map, which is typically found in the lower left. Place your piece of paper with the 2 tick marks against the bar scale to begin to read the distance indicated. Note first the ratio that's represented by the bar scale. This indicates that 1 unit of measurement on the map equals a certain number of units on the ground.  For instance, a common topo map might have a 1:100,000 scale, where 1 centimeter equals 1 kilometer.  The bar scale may also contain a primary scale, which shows whole units increasing from 0, left to right. There's also an extension scale, which shows fractions of a unit increasing from 0, right to left. Use this method if you have a short distance between your tick marks that easily fits within the given bar scale. Align the tick mark on the right side of your paper edge with a whole number in the primary scale of the bar scale. The left tick mark should fall somewhere within the extension scale.  Where you line up the right tick mark on the primary scale depends on what it takes to fit the left tick mark onto the extension scale. Keep the right tick mark on a whole number. The whole number the right tick mark is on indicates that your ground distance is at least X-many meters/kilometers/miles as the scale indicates for that number. You'll find the rest of the distance more precisely with the extension scale. Determine the rest of your measurement in smaller increments using the extension scale of the bar scale. Where your tick mark lands will indicate what tenth of a...


Lay a straight edge on the bottom shelf of the cabinet. Move the straight-edge on to the bottom shelf. Measure the actual height of the cabinet opening (from the surface of the bottom shelf). Make new reference marks. Take measurements from between your reference marks.

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Measure the inside surface of the cabinet, by first laying a straight-edge face flat on the bottom shelf of the cabinet with one end of the straight-edge sticking out of the cabinet a few inches.  Slowly close the cabinet door until it is lightly touching the straight-edge. Mark a pencil mark on the door where it touches the straight-edge. Move the straight-edge over at least a couple of inches and make a second mark. Now, place your straight-edge on the bottom shelf with its face against the vertical stile (vertical piece of the face frame) opposite the hinged edge of the door.  As before, it should stick out a few inches. Hold it as parallel with the side of the cabinet as possible so it’s close to 90 degrees to the face frame of the cabinet. Again, slowly close the door until it just touches the straight-edge. Mark a pencil mark on the door where it touches the straight edge. Raise the straight-edge at least a few inches and make a second mark. From the pencil mark near the bottom of the door, use that measurement and make a pencil mark at that point near the top of the door, then make a second one a few inches apart from the first one. You should now have two marks near the bottom of the door, two near the top, and two along the opened edge of the door. Create new reference marks by measuring up ½” from the bottom marks, ½” down from the top marks, and ½” in toward the center of the door from the vertical edge marks.  From the new reference marks you just made, line them up with a straight-edge and connect them with a pencil line. Do this along all three edges. These lines represent the size of your piece of sheet metal. Measure the spaces between your reference marks be sure you stay BETWEEN the hinges and the outer line on the door.  By taking these measurements once, you have established the vertical measurement for all the cabinets of the same height in your kitchen. For cabinets of different widths, measure from the outer edge of the “model” door to the vertical pencil line. Measure that same...


Lay a tarp over your landscaping features. Close the windows to your house. Cover electrical outlets and lights with plastic. Walk around the house to remove any obstacles. Trim trees and bushes that are close to your siding. Check the siding manufacturers’ cleaning guidelines. Figure out the cleaning guidelines for your type of siding. Do a test clean on a small part of your siding.

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If you have landscaping features around the side of the house that need to be protected during the cleaning process, you can lay a tarp over them. In order to avoid getting any soapy water into bedrooms or other parts of the house, you should make sure all of the windows are closed. You don’t want to get electrical components wet while washing the house, since water and electricity can be a dangerous combination. If there are any electrical components on the side of your house, they should be covered in plastic for the duration of the cleaning process. Since you will likely be using a ladder and focusing on the side of the house, you want to make sure there are no objects in your way. Remove any debris, logs, or other items from the side of your house so you have access to all of the siding. Trimming these trees will not only remove an obstacle to your cleaning efforts. It will prevent dirt and pollen from accumulating on your siding. There many types of siding such as vinyl siding, insulated vinyl siding, fiber cement siding, and wood siding. Depending on the type of siding you own and the particular product, you may need to follow very specific maintenance and cleaning guidelines. You should follow the general cleaning and maintenance guidelines for your particular type of siding:  Wash vinyl siding annually with soap and water. You should avoid pressure washing vinyl siding.  Wash insulated siding annually with soap and water. You should avoid pressure washing insulated siding.  Fibre cement siding should be cleaned annually to prevent dirt and mildew from accumulating. It needs to be repainted every fifteen to twenty years.  Wash engineered wood siding once a year with a mild detergent. You can use a light sandpaper to remove really tough stains on engineered wood siding.  Clean wood siding once a year with soapy water and a soft bristled brush. Prior to cleaning the whole exterior of your house, you should check to make sure the cleaning solution that you are using will not damage your siding. Choose a...


Lay a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plants. Water the pepper plants consistently in the morning. Grow companion plants around your peppers.

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Pepper plants want evenly moisturized soil, which can be hard to maintain. To keep the water in the soil from evaporating, pack mulch, such as weed-free straw, around the base of the plants. Mulch protects the soil from the sun and helps the soil store moisture better. Hot pepper plants are thirsty and require a good amount of water. At the same time, you don’t want to overwater them so the soil is soaking. Water them deeply every 5 to 7 days. Check the soil moisture meter every day to see if you need to water the plants more often. Some plants help peppers grow better and keep insects away from them. Grow onions, basil, and chives to deter insects like aphids, slugs, and mosquitoes that harm your peppers. Plant tomatoes and corn to give your pepper plants shade and create a windbreak.


Lay a towel on a hard surface and then place the sweater onto the towel. Place another towel on top of the sweater and gently press down on it. Stretch the sweater back to its original shape. Leave the sweater to dry flat on a towel for 24 hours.

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Ensure that the sweater lies flat on the towel so that it doesn't become wrinkled. Adjust the sleeves so that they fit on the towel.  If possible, use a white towel, as this removes the risk of any dye from the towel staining your sweater. An absorbent towel, rather than a light cotton towel, will work best for this task. This helps to delicately remove the excess water from the sweater. Press down gently on the shoulders of the sweater and then work your way down. Remove the top towel from the sweater once you have pressed the entire garment. Gently pull the shoulders of the jersey apart to their usual placement and tug on the sleeves to make them longer. Pull the body material widthways, then pull it lengthways to stretch out the fibers. Continue to adjust the sweater until it reaches your desired shape and size. Hold the jersey up to your body to ensure you're stretching it in the right places. Place the sweater on a dry towel in a dust-free area to dry. If the sweater is still damp after 24 hours, flip it over, place it on a dry towel, and wait a further 24 hours for it to dry. If the sweater is still too small, repeat the softening and stretching process to make it larger.


Lay all of the edge pieces out. Sort your edge pieces by color and shape. Using the image on the front of the box as a reference, arrange the corner pieces into a large square. Begin building the puzzle by connecting all of the edge pieces together into lines.

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If you pile puzzle pieces up, you may overlook important parts of the puzzle.  These pieces are the foundation of the puzzle you’ll be building. Using the box image as a reference, arrange the lines of edge pieces next to their corresponding corners.  When you’ve used all of the edge pieces your puzzle will look like a picture frame.  Leave the center of the frame free of pieces and only put sections of completed pieces in.  (Otherwise, you will have a continuous issue with removing unsorted pieces from the area where you want to work or put in completed sections.)


Lay down a large piece of wax paper. Lay the meat out on the bread’s ‘top’. Put the cheese on top of the layer of meat. Toast your partially done sandwich if desired. Lay your veggies out on the bottom half of the bread. Finish your sandwich with some delicious sauce.

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This will accommodate the length of the bread and will keep any dropped topping from getting on the table (so you can just stick them back on the sub). Lay your bread down on the paper and slice it in half lengthwise so that it opens up like a mouth (to gobble up all of those tasty ingredients). Once you have opened up your bread, flatten it down so that it stays open. Place your slices of meat on the half of the bread that has the top. The amount of meat you put on is up to you (since you’re making it at home and there’s no limit to how much you can put on!). Spread the meat out so that it covers the top. At Subway, their cheese is cut into triangles. If you are going for really authentic, then cut your cheese into triangles. Whether you do this or not, lay the cheese out over the meat slices. If you did cut them into triangles, tessellate the cheese. This means to alternate the slices so that they don’t overlap. If you like your cheese melted, turn on your oven and place your sandwich on a baking sheet. Stick it in the broiler or toaster oven for a couple of minutes (until the cheese melts and the bread starts to toast). If you prefer your sandwiches less toasty, skip this step. Make sure they are spread out. Again, since you are making your sandwich at home, there is no particular order you have to put your veggies on your sandwich in (plus everyone wants different things on their sub). In general, you might consider starting lettuce on first and then working your way through the larger vegetables and on to the olives/pickles/smaller things you might want.. Again, the amount of sauce you put on your sandwich depends on your personal preference. Don’t hopelessly drown your sandwich though or your might end up with some really soggy bread. Put your sauce on top of the meat and cheese side and close that baby on up. It’s time to eat. You might want to consider cutting your sandwich in half to make it more manageable.


Lay down a substrate. Include vegetation. Provide food and water dishes. Introduce your snake to the enclosure.

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Your snake will feel most comfortable if there is some type of substrate at the bottom of the enclosure. The materials you use, though, will depend on your snake and its traditional habitat in the wild.  Snakes that naturally live in the desert will need fine-grain sand for a substrate.  For other snakes, unprinted paper (such as unprinted newspaper pages or butcher's paper) can be laid down in shredded layers. Still other snakes will prefer clean leaf litter as a substrate.  Talk to a veterinarian or a snake expert at your local pet store to determine what type of substrate would work best for your snake. Most snakes like some type of vegetative cover since they're typically used to having this in the wild. Different snake species are used to different habitats, and the types of plants you provide should reflect what your snake would live with in nature. However, once you've identified the best type of vegetation, you will need to choose between live plants and artificial plants.  Chinese evergreen, ferns, small palms, philodendron, bromeliads, and begonias are all plants that are commonly used in snake enclosures. Live plants can be difficult to maintain and frequently carry pests or diseases. For this reason, many experts advise against using live plants and advocate for artificial plants instead. All snakes need a constant supply of fresh drinking water. Snakes will need food as well. All snakes are predatory carnivores, which means that your snake will need live, frozen, or recently-killed organisms in order to survive.  Try to provide a water dish that is large enough for your snake to immerse itself in. Be sure the water dish you purchase is heavy enough that it will not get tipped over as your snake climbs in or out. The food you feed your snake will depend on the diet of that species. Most pet snake species eat mice, rats, gerbils, or hamsters, though smaller snakes may eat insects, frogs, or amphibians.  Ask your veterinarian or a snake expert at your local pet store about what type of diet is best...


Lay down a tarp and put on your protective gear. Pour the stripper into a glass or metal bucket so it’s easier to access. Apply the paint stripper to the metal window frame and let it sit. Scrape away as much of the paint as possible. Use mineral spirits to wipe down the window frame. Rinse the window frame and then dry it off with a clean rag.

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Use a tarp or a drop cloth to cover the ground beneath the window to protect the floor from the paint stripper. Put on rubber gloves, goggles, and a respirator before you start working. If you can, open some windows or run a fan to help keep the room as well-ventilated as possible while you work. Choose a stripper that is made specifically for metal and read the manufacturer’s instructions before you begin using it. Some products will have longer curing times than others, which might affect your decision. Never use a plastic or styrofoam container for the stripper, as it could actually eat through the material and leak all over your floor. Use a disposable paint brush so that you can just discard it once you’re done working. Apply as thick of a coat of the stripper as you can without having it drip down the frame. Leave the stripper alone to do its work, which usually takes about 20 to 30 minutes. As the stripper starts to work, the paint will start to bubble up and peel off of the metal frame. Use a paint scraper or a nylon brush or scrubbing pad to chip away the peeling paint. If there is more dried paint underneath the first layer, reapply the stripper and repeat the scraping process as many times as needed until the metal is exposed. For hard to reach crevices, use a wire brush. Mineral spirits are often used as a paint thinner, so it’s a great product to use to remove any remaining bits and flecks of paint. Simply dampen a clean rag with the spirits and wipe down the frame from top to bottom. You can buy mineral spirits at your local home improvement store. Dip a clean rag into water and thoroughly wipe down the window frame to remove any remnants of paint thinner or mineral spirits. After that, take a clean, dry rag and dry off the frame completely. Once that is done, you’re ready to repaint or refinish your metal window frame however you please!


Lay down a tarp or dropcloth. Sand the wood to prepare it for painting. Paint the wood with a light-colored latex paint. Apply a base coat of clear wax. Mix dark grey paint and clear wax. Wipe the wax on with a lint-free cloth. Sand and buff the wood.

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Choose a well-ventilated area to work in, and set down something to protect your floor. A tarp or large dropcloth will work well for a piece of furniture. If your wood has any dark paint or stain on it, sand it down with a coarse sandpaper until the paint or stain is gone. If the wood is untreated, just sand away any rough spots. If your wood is already painted a very light color and you don’t want to change it, you can skip the sanding and painting steps. In order for the gray wax to show up, the wood will need to be painted a light color. White or cream will offer the best result. Use a paintbrush to apply the paint in the direction of the grain, then allow it to dry completely. Apply another coat if the first one didn't provide enough coverage. Drying times will typically be between 24 and 48 hours, but check your paint’s packaging for exact instructions. Purchase a small can of paste finishing wax, then use an old, lint-free rag to wipe a coat of it onto the wood. Cover the entire area that you want to grey wash. This base coat will allow you to control how much of the grey-tinted wax stays on in the coming steps. Clear paste finishing wax can be purchased at home improvement and hardware stores. Opt for a dark grey paint since a light grey is unlikely to show up well on the wood when mixed with the wax. Start by mixing about 1 tablespoon (14 g) of wax and 1 tablespoon (15 mL) of paint in a disposable container. Use a plastic spoon or a popsicle stick to smash up the wax with the paint until it’s well mixed.  Adjust the recipe to your preference. If you want a darker wax, add more paint. For a lighter finish, add more wax. Work with small batches since the paint/wax combo will begin to harden after a while. Wipe in the direction of the grain as you rub the tinted wax onto the wood. Apply as much or as little as you want to achieve your desired effect. If a spot gets too dark, apply a little clear wax to lighten it. If it's not dark enough, allow it to dry for 15 to 20 minutes and then apply another coat....


Lay down a tarp or dropcloth. Sand the wood to remove paint and imperfections. Apply a wood stain with a foam brush. Let the stain sit for five minutes before you wipe it off. Select a grey latex paint to use for the wash. Mix four parts water to one part paint. Use a foam brush to paint the wood with the wash solution. Repeat on all sides.

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Choose a well-ventilated area to work in, and set down something to protect your floor. Newspaper is fine if the object is fairly small, but a tarp or large dropcloth will work better if it's a piece of furniture. Use a coarse sandpaper all over the surface of the wood you plan to apply the wash to. Any prior paint needs to be removed completely. Sand off any imperfections or rough spots, but leave behind any knots in the wood that add interest to its appearance. The stain will provide the undertone for the finished wood, so choose your stain based on how light or dark you want the wood to appear. Use a foam brush to apply the stain onto the wood in the direction of the grain. Complete the entire staining and washing process on one side before flipping it over to do another side. Once you finish applying the stain to all parts of the wood that you can reach, allow the stain to dry for five minutes. Use a lint-free cloth (that you don’t mind throwing away afterward) to wipe away any excess stain that’s sitting on the surface of the wood. Be sure you're getting a latex, water-based paint, or it won't mix properly with the water. Choose the shade of grey that best matches the tone you want to achieve. For example, a blue-toned grey may give your wood some cool tones. A yellow-toned grey will likely create a brownish-grey effect. Create your wash solution in a disposable container. It should be about four parts water to one part paint. If you're just washing a small piece of furniture, start with about 1 cup (0.2 L) of water and mix more as needed. Spread the grey wash across the wood in the direction of the grain, just as you did with the stain. If you don't think the grey is prominent enough after it dries, apply another coat. Wait until all coats are dry before you flip the wood to stain and wash another side. Once the grey wash feels dry to the touch, flip the wood over. Stain and then apply the wash to any other parts you’ve prepped.


Lay down ground rules. Gather participants. Decide on a theme. Write names on cards. Distribute the game cards.

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The basic rules of "Who Am I?" are fairly simple. Each player writes down a name of a thing, based in an agreed-upon category, such as celebrities or historical figures. Once they have written a name, they hand it face down the player next to them. Next, all players place a post it note with a famous person or thing on their head without looking at the answer. Players ask the group questions about their assigned figure in hopes of deducing who or what it might be. This may be done one at a time revolving in a circle.. Finally, the player who guesses his answer correctly first wins the game.  Customize the theme and rules to best suit the people you're with. Questions should only be answered by "Yes" or "No". Anything more complex risks spoiling the game's challenge. Unless you're playing in a competitive context, you should allow everyone a chance to figure out their answer. The "Who Am I" game doesn't have any mandatory rules you need to follow. Rather, it is meant to be customized according to the desires of the people playing. "Who Am I?" is a party game, or something you'll play after dinner. The minimum number for a game of "Who Am I?" is 2, but 6 to 8 players is the recommended number of players. Generally speaking, the more people you get onboard, the more pleasantly chaotic your session will be. The game is meant as an ice breaker for upbeat socialization. It's a good way to start school or work sessions. If you have a choice of people, choose people you think will be able to make the session fun and enjoyable for the other players. Celebrities are a common theme for this game. Though unnecessary, themes help to give character and a sense of fairness to your game. Discuss some ideas amongst yourselves, or come up with a few ideas yourself if you're the host.  You should pick a theme that will interest your group the most. Historical figures, countries and bands are all possible themes you can choose. There are a few well-known versions of this game. For instance, "Celebrity" focuses on guessing a...


Lay down mulch around your spirea. Water your spirea more often during hotter months. Keep your plant safe from aphids. Watch out for fire blight.

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Spirea will benefit from a good mulch in the springtime. To do this, spread a layer of compost or well-rotted manure about two inches thick across the area of ground covered by the bush’s branches. This will help retain moisture in the soil over the hotter months, keep the weeds down and, later, protect the roots from the cold as the cooler weather draws in. Over the summer your Spirea will be grateful for some water when the weather is particularly hot or dry. Keep in mind that established plants won’t need much watering most of the time apart from these hot months. Spirea tend not to have a lot of problems but can occasionally be troubled by aphid infestation. Look out for curled leaves as a sign that aphids are taking over. A blast of water from the garden hose usually works to dislodge aphids. You can also use a commercial aphid spray. Look for blackened stem tips that curl away from the plant; this is a sign of fire blight. Try to aggressively prune away the affected areas and then burn the trimmings.


Lay down newspapers on your workspace.

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Make sure that the newspaper covers your entire workspace. If you are worried about the newspaper sliding out of place, tape it down. Use 2 or more layers of newspaper if you are messy.


Lay down or display shag rugs. Add cool pillows to your bed or couch. Amp up the light for your closet. Dress up your walls.

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A shag rug can be a nice and soft addition to your room’s floor but you may also nail it up on a wall for a unique display. Choose a rug with a unique pattern so that it draws the eye. You may be able to find pillows with interesting quotes, pictures, designs and textures to add to your room. Shop at furniture stores, thrift stores and online. You may also be able to print your own designs onto pillow cases at custom t-shirt stores. If you find it difficult to see into your closet or you just want to add a splash of light into your room, add hanging white twinkle lights on the inside of the door frame. Make it look like you opened the door to another universe or a cool dressing room for a rock band. Use hooks or tape to keep the lights in place. Purchase the lights and hooks at a dollar store or local arts and crafts store. Use temporary wallpaper that you can purchase at a dollar store or arts and craft store to dress up boring walls. Research online for fun ideas if you are looking for inspiration. You can also cut the wall paper into shapes, like stars, before placing it on your wall. Make sure to use temporary wallpaper so that you can change the style as often as you please.


Lay down terms of engagement. Claim the distance that you want. Pay attention to your body language. Talk out differences. Put a stop to game playing. Know when enough is enough.

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Take the first chance you have to honestly address the situation at your workplace and the role the past relationship plays in it. Initiate the conversation away from curious co-workers, and preferably outside of the workplace entirely. Let your ex know that you intend to keep drama from the past outside of work. Be sure to put your best foot forward, and mention that having a cordial working relationship is important for both your jobs and your happiness. If you make strong efforts to be civil and respectful, beginning with this talk, your ex will very likely follow suit. Try to come to agreements about the following:  Socializing together with co-workers. Being involved in (or trying to avoid) working closely on projects together. Leaving baggage outside of the workplace. Opening the possibility to address serious problems outside of work, if they come up at all. However, the situation of the workplace does require that you remain somewhat flexible to surprise hallway run-ins with your ex. Be aware that there are some things that you can control, like the terms of engagement between you and your ex when you are  interacting, but others that you can’t. You may not be able to control how often you see your ex. If you find yourself wanting a break from the proximity you are maintaining, don't be afraid to take it. Give yourself the same respect as anyone else in a difficult situation. Even though you may have already discussed keeping a safe distance with your ex, you are responsible for being direct and acting on your wishes. This includes making your intentions known when other people are also involved. By communicating your desire for distance, you will leave no room for people to speculate and gossip about what might be going on. For example, say you have been asked to have drinks with your co-workers after work and you know your ex has been invited too. Instead of taking the opportunity to let everyone know that you don't want to be around your ex for an extra minute, graciously let them know that you do...


Lay flowers flat in shallow boxes. Use cardboard boxes with cut-outs. Transport flowers in buckets. Keep your flowers shaded and cool.

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This method works best for flowers with hardier blooms or for greenery that will accompany the flowers in your floral arrangements. Gently lay flowers flat in the boxes. Make sure all the blooms face the same way. If you plan on stacking your boxes, close them well, first, so that your flowers don’t get crushed by the boxes above them. This works best for more delicate flowers and arrangements that are already complete.  Find cardboard boxes with lids that are the same height as the stems of your arrangements. In the lid of each box, use a box cutter to cut a hole just large enough for your bouquet to fit into. Put each of your bouquet arrangements into a hole, making sure they fit snugly and won’t fall over as you drive. If you’re transporting in buckets, you don’t need to wrap the stems of your flowers with cotton wool and plastic.  Fill five-gallon buckets halfway with water, and put your bouquets in them upright. To keep the bucket upright, place heavy items on each side of the bucket. of bleach per 1 US quart (0.95 L) of water in the flower vase or bucket. Alternatively, use 3 drops of bleach and 1 teaspoon (4 g) of sugar per 1 US quart (0.95 L) of water.”|}} In your vehicle, don’t place flowers in an unventilated trunk or in the direct sunlight from the windows.  Place them on the floor to keep them upright. Keep the inside of the vehicle cool, so the flowers remain fresh.


Lay newspapers down on your workstation. Soak the pot in warm water for about half an hour.

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Even the most careful crafters have spills, so make sure to protect the table or floor you are working on. You’ll be working with acrylic paint, which is water-based and pretty easy to clean if you do spill.Who wants to clean though?  On that note, you should probably change into some work clothes too. It is preferable to set up your painting station somewhere out of the way, because it takes several days to fully complete a pot. The primers, paints, and sealers all need hours to dry, so set up your supplies somewhere you can leave them for at least 48 hours. This will help you peel off any price tags, as well as clean off any marks.Because these pots are often sold at home and garden stores, they might be slightly scuffed or dirty. It’s important to give yourself a clean terracotta canvas before you start your painting.


Lay off the tweezers. Make sure you are getting the right nutrients. Create an olive oil and honey mixture. Use growth treatment products.

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One of the best ways to help your eyebrows grow back is by refraining from using your tweezers until you have the desired thickness. It can be tempting to tweeze those stray hairs, but you'll only continue to carry on with your current eyebrow shape if you don't let them grow back. It takes about six to eight weeks for eyebrows to grow back so try to be patient. If your diet is lacking in vitamins and nutrients that you need to retain a healthy body, this could be one of the contributions to your lack of hair growth in your eyebrows. Try to keep your diet rich in Vitamin B, omega-3s, iron, protein, and zinc and always make sure you are drinking enough water. You can also take a Vitamin B supplement like Biotin to help hair growth. Olive oil is rich in vitamin E and thus can help stimulate hair growth. Measure out 1/2 teaspoon of olive oil and mix with a few drops of honey. Massage mixture into your eyebrows for a few minutes. Allow the mixture to set on your eyebrows for 30 minutes and then wash off with warm water. Note that honey is a natural lightener and could change the color of your eyebrows if you use it frequently. If waiting patiently for your eyebrows to grow out or using natural methods hasn't produced any results, you can use a growth treatment to stimulate your hair growth. There are a number of growth treatments you can purchase for your eyebrows, so with adequate research you should be able to find one that corresponds to your desired thickness.   Some growth treatments have been proven to work better than others. If you have done a lot of damage to your eyebrows by over-tweezing, you may need to invest in a higher quality product. Latisse, Rogaine, and Viviscal are all popular treatments. However, these products only work as long as you continually use them. Also, they are only effective for some people, and may not work for you. Keep in mind that while some treatments and serums are applied directly to eyebrows, some are consumed. Those consumed may help hair growth in your eyebrows, but they...


Lay on your back. Twist your knees to one side. Move to the other side. Try alternative movements.

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Your arms can prop your head or be straight out from your body. Your knees should be bent with your feet flat on the floor and hip-width apart. Turn your knees so that one knee is touching or almost touching the ground. Only go as far as is comfortable. Your back should still be mostly on the ground. You won't hold this position, but simply move back and forth. Repeat this stretch 10 to 15 times on each side. If you are sitting at a desk, you can perform this exercise while you sit.  Find a chair with an armrest on it. Keep your feet flat on the ground and gently twist your body to one side so that both hands are holding on to the arm rest. Now use your hands to help pull your body in a rotation movement to one side. Do the exercise slowly, avoiding any abrupt or bouncing movement. Find the most comfortable end position and hold for 30 seconds. Repeat on the other side. You can do the exercise three more times.


Lay on your stomach. Put your arms at your shoulders. Push yourself upwards. Hold for 30 seconds.

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If you're on your back, turn of on your stomach. Your legs should be straight out behind you. Your palms should be flat on the floor next to or just under your shoulders. Your elbows should be up in the air. Push just the top half of your body off the floor. It's sort of like doing a sit-up, but you're just curving your upper body into the air, not pushing your lower half up. Hold this position for about 30 seconds, then go back down to the floor. Repeat 3-5 times, or more if you prefer. You can this exercise several times throughout the day.


Lay out a linen napkin. Lay out your peaches. Cover the peaches. Wait for them to ripen. Enjoy your ripe peaches.

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Select a clean, dry area (such as a space on your kitchen counter) to lay out a linen or cotton napkin. Make sure that it is flat for optimum use of space. Place your peaches stem-end down on the linen towel. Spread them out so that they are equidistant from each other, and so none of them are touching (even if you are ripening many peaches). Place a second linen or cotton towel over the top of the peaches. Cover them completely, and if possible tuck the sides so that the edges are closed off to fresh air. Ripening your peaches with a linen towel may take several days, but will provide juicier fruit. Check your peaches 2-3 days later, paying attention to their softness and looking for that classic peachy smell. If they aren't quite ready, replace the towel and check back a day later. When your peaches are soft to the touch and have a great aroma, they are ready to be eaten! Have them fresh or store them in your fridge if you have a surplus you want to extend the life of.


Lay out a sheet of wax paper. Screw the star attachment on the murukku mold. Grease the murukku mold. Fill the mold with dough. Press the dough onto the wax paper. Cover the murukku.

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Either place a large piece of wax paper on a baking sheet or lay it out directly on your counter. You will form the murukku on this wax paper. A murukku mold is a small metal cylinder with a variety of disk attachments and a metal tamper. Find the disk attachment with a small star shape in the center. Next, place the star attachment disk over the opening of the mold and screw it into place.  If you don’t have a mold, you can also use a pastry bag with a small star attachment on the end. You can buy murukku molds online or at your local Indian grocery store. Use your finger and a small amount of butter to grease the inside of the murukku mold and the end of the tamper. If you use a pastry bag instead, you can skip this step. If you don’t grease the murukku mold, the mold is much harder to clean. Pinch off a walnut-sized ball of dough and press it into the opening of the murukku mold. If you have a larger mold, you may need a larger piece of dough. Fill the murukku mold with dough, leaving a few centimeters of space at the top for the tamper. If you’re using a pastry bag, fill the bag about halfway full. Press the dough gently towards the star attachment to remove any air bubbles. Hold the mold or pastry bag just above the wax paper. Next, gently squeeze the dough out by pressing the tamper or squeezing the pasty bag. Move the mold or pastry bag in a circular motion to create small spirals of dough. Once the spiral is as big as you’d like, use your finger to break the dough away from the mold or pastry bag.  Press the tail end against the spiral to secure it. If the dough breaks while forming the spirals, remove the dough from the pastry bag or mold and knead in a few drops of water. Dampen a clean dish cloth and squeeze out as much water as you can. Next, gently drape the dish cloth over the murukku spirals. This will prevent drying.


Lay out a tortilla. Heap the fillings onto the tortilla. Add toppings. Roll the burrito Finished.

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Take a large, fresh flour tortilla. Put it down flat on a clean plate or cutting board so that you have a stable surface on which to build your burrito. You can add toppings like salsa, sour cream, and shredded cheese at this point, or you can wait until you've arranged your main ingredients. Consider heating the tortilla beforehand. Microwave the tortilla for thirty seconds, or heat it directly on the stove using a low heat. Be careful not to burn the tortilla on the stove. You want it warm, but not crispy! Add the egg, the veggies, the meat, the rice, the beans, the avocado – whatever you've prepared. Make sure not to make the burrito so full that you cannot fold it shut! Arrange the ingredients in a thin line across the center of the tortilla, leaving at least two inches on each side and at least an inch at each end. If you haven't added toppings yet, put them on top. Sprinkle cheese onto the mount of ingredients. Load sour cream or salsa along the line. This can be a fun way to spice up your breakfast burrito. . First, fold the wide sides of the tortilla inward. Then, roll up the burrito from the bottom. This should "seal" both ends for easy eating. Consider grilling the burrito. For a tasty twist, plop the rolled burrito back onto a pan or grill to char the sides. Grill on a high heat for 20-60 seconds until the tortilla firms up and grill marks appear.


Lay out all of the parts your opener came with. Begin by putting together the main assembly. Install blocking on the ceiling, if there is none there already. Find the point of connection to the garage door and attach the bracket that came with your opener to the door itself. Lean the end of the assembly (opposite the motor compartment) up above the garage door. Lift the other end of the assembly up and into place. Attach to the bracket on the garage door.

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Make sure that the parts list included with your opener matches the parts included in the package. Your opener should have come with a list of detailed installation instructions, so follow those to begin assembly.  First put the rail together. This should come in several pieces that fit easily together. Attach them together as directed in your installation instructions. Then you will need to slide the carriage (also known as a trolley) over the rail. This is the piece of the opener that will move along the rail, pulling the door open. Attach the rail to the motor compartment. This is the largest piece of the opener and it will be positioned furthest from the garage door. Install the pulley at end of rail, opposite the motor compartment.  Then feed the belt or chain through the end of the rail, around the pulley, then around the other end (at the motor). Finally you will attach the end of the belt or chain to the carriage. The end of the chain or belt should have a screw attached to it, so that you can easily attach it to the carriage. This screw will also allow you to adjust the tension of the chain or belt. This is how you will attach the garage door opener to the ceiling. The instructions your garage door opener came with should have detailed specifications for the blocking. No matter what the size and spacing of the blocking is, be sure that you are attaching it to joists (solid wood) in the ceiling, not just to sheetrock. The distance from the top of the garage door should be specified in the opener's direction and in most cases you will want it centered on the door. If your garage door opener did not come with this bracket you will need to consult the instructions to determine what type of bracket you will need. Attach the bracket the opener came with to the wall above the door and then insert the end of the assembly into it. Connect the bracket and the end of the assembly as directed in the installation instructions. Install the power unit high enough so that tall people won't run into it, at least 7'...


Lay out all the items beforehand. Prioritize your most used items. Consider using plastic bags for smaller items. Find ways to nest items.

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This approach helps to minimize the opportunity to leave out something important, and lets you evaluate whether or not everything you're trying to pack is absolutely essential. As a bonus, having everything in front of you at one time makes it easier to group like items together and pack them in the same compartment of the rucksack, helping to stay organized and efficient. Again, consider your purpose. If you're going to the lake house and want to bring your ruck sack, it's probably not essential to bring the camp stove and the fold-up hatchet. Err on the side of keeping it as light as possible. Items that you will use throughout the day should be packed in a compartment that can be opened and closed with relatively little effort. Snacks, a swimsuit, your phone, or a change of clothing should be easily accessed without having to remove a number of items from any compartment.  If you have a single big compartment in your rucksack, the things that you will use as soon as you arrive and continue using frequently should go on top and things you will rarely use should go at the bottom. It's usually common, if you're heading out hiking or hitching, to keep your socks on the top of the bag for quick changes and easy access. Placing small items together in plastic bags with a reclosable top helps to prevent those items from settling during the day and being harder to find when they are needed. Use the bags for snacks, bottled water or other substances that could damage equipment or stain clothing if they were to puncture or otherwise come open. It's usually common to keep soap, shampoo, toothpaste, and other toiletries in a plastic bag to avoid spillage and keep the easily accessible. Before you start jamming everything into your rucksack, check for ways you can start to save space by nesting things into one another. Keep your iPhone in your spare pair of shoes, or wrap up your passport in your jeans. If you're bringing a small foldable pot, keep the camp stove, matches, and other small items in the pot. This can be...


Lay out an “ant buffet” to see which bait food the ants prefer. Buy ant bait stations that match up with the ants’ current food preference. Set out the bait stations in areas where you see ant activity. Keep the bait stations in place until all ant activity has ceased. Take simple measures to prevent future ant invasions of your home.

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Many types of ants, including common house ants, prefer different types of foods at different times. To determine the preference of the colony that’s invading your house, add a squeeze of honey, a dollop of peanut butter, and 1-2 potato chips to a piece of cardboard. Place the cardboard in an area where you’ve noticed ant traffic, and wait 1-2 days to see which food the ants are eating. If the ants prefer the honey, for example, then you know they are currently interested in sweet foods. Use this knowledge when you shop for ant bait stations. Some ant bait stations use a generic bait that will probably work for you, but others list specific baits, such as “for sweet-eating ants” or “for grease-eating ants.” If you can find these specific baits at your local hardware store, buy the type that corresponds to the results of your “ant buffet” test.  Designs vary by brand, but each individual bait station often looks like a tiny plastic igloo with 4 openings, stuck on top of a roughly 2 in (5.1 cm) square of plastic or cardboard. Alternatively, you can make your own bait stations by mixing up a paste from 12  fl oz (350 ml) of water, 0.5 c (120 g) of sugar, and 2 tbsp (30 g) of Borax, then spreading it on small pieces of cardboard. Borax is toxic if ingested, however, so this isn't safe if you have pets or kids. Scout ants lay a scent trail for their companions to follow, so ants tend to use the same pathways over and over again. Identify several areas with high ant traffic and place the bait stations there. The ants will take over the job from there!  Worker ants will collect the solid, liquid, or gelatinous poison inside the bait stations—which they think is tasty food—and bring it back to their nest to share. From there, the poison will quickly spread through and decimate the colony. Bait stations are generally safe to use around kids and pets, so long as they don’t break into the “igloo.” Follow the instructions on the package if a child or pet ingests any of the poison, or contact a poison control center or...


Lay out the blanket on a flat surface. Fold down the top corner of the blanket. Place the baby face-up on the blanket. Place your baby’s left arm at their side. Pull the wrap around the baby’s body to the right side. Move the baby's right arm into position. Tuck the other side of the blanket under the baby’s left side. Close the bottom of the swaddle.

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Spread the blanket out on a secure, flat surface, such as your bed or a padded floor. Arrange it in a diamond shape.  The blanket should be at least 40 by 40 inches (100 cm × 100 cm). If you can buy a blanket specifically for swaddling, this is best. Ideally, the blanket should be made of a light, breathable material, such as muslin cotton. This will help prevent your baby from becoming overheated, especially if you live in a warm area. Once you’ve spread out the blanket, fold over the top corner. The folded corner should be on top of the blanket, not underneath it.  The folded corner will help guide your placement of the baby. Your blanket should now resemble the outline of a cartoon drawing of a gem or the Superman symbol, with 3 corners on the sides and bottom and a flat area on top. Lay down the baby on the blanket on their back so that their head is above the folded top edge of the blanket. Try to keep the baby centered on the blanket. If your baby is very young, be sure their head and body are properly supported while you do this. It’s very important to keep your baby face-up and make sure they are positioned so that their face will not be covered by the blanket after you swaddle them. Take your baby’s left arm and carefully straighten it. Place it alongside the left side of their body and gently hold it in place. Alternatively, you can fold the arm across their chest, like they are in the womb. However, your baby may be able to wriggle free if their arms are bent. Pull the corner of the blanket on the baby’s left side (your right) across their body, and tuck it under their back on their right side, just below their right armpit. The blanket should be tucked snugly enough to hold the baby's left arm in place at their side. Gently place the baby's right arm at their side and hold it in place, just like you did with the left arm. The corner of the blanket that you folded over will now be trapped between the right side of the baby’s body and their right arm. You can also fold their right arm across their...


Lay out the clothing you will be using for your pillow. Use a ruler or tape measure to measure out the size and shape needed for the pillow. Cut along the marked measurements using a sharp pair of scissors. Decorate the fabric. Pin the two pieces of fabric together. Sew the fabric together.

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Choose a hard surface, such as a work table or a hardwood floor. Turn the clothing inside out and smooth it free of wrinkles. You may want to iron the fabric before you begin working. Make sure you add 1 inch to the intended size of your pillow to allow for proper leeway for seams. Trace along this measurement with chalk to give yourself a guide when cutting.  If your article of clothing is identical on both its front and back side, and you are confident in your cutting ability, you can trace just one measurement with chalk and use it to cut both pieces of fabric at once. You may also mark both sides of the fabric with chalk if you like. This will be necessary if you are using two different articles of clothing for your pillow. If possible, cut the front and the back of the clothing at the same time to get two symmetrical pieces of fabric. If you plan on using two different styles of fabric for the pillow, you need only cut one piece from each garment of the appropriate measurement. You can embroider the fabric, add ribbon, affix rhinestones or sequins, or even paint the surface of the fabric to make the design entirely yours.  If you are painting or gluing decorations to the fabric, make sure that the paint or glue is appropriate for the fabric in question and will not damage the material. You may also want to choose washable paint or glue. Allow the paint or glue plenty of time to dry before continuing to work on your pillow. Lay the fabric pieces on top of one another so that when you sew the fabric pieces together, the pillowcase will be inside out. Place pins along the edges of the fabric to hold the shape of the pillow in place.   Make sure the pieces are perfectly aligned. If you're using fabric with a pattern, be sure the pattern won't look crooked once you sew the pillow. Leave one edge of the pillow unpinned, so you'll have room to stuff the pillow once it is sewn. This can either be done by hand or by using a sewing machine. Sew the three pinned sides of the pillow case, making sure the seam is 1/4...


Lay out the first layer of cinder blocks. Trace around the edges of the bricks from end to end. Spread mortar on the footing inside the marked area of the first block. Place the first cinder block on top of the mortar. Butter the "ears" of the second block with mortar. Push the new block into the base block. Repeat the same process for the rest of the first layer of cinder blocks. Wipe any excess mortar off periodically.

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Starting at one end of the wall, lay out the cinder blocks, end to end, until you reach the first turn in the wall. If your wall is straight, line up the first layer of cinder blocks from one end to the other end. Put 3⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) plywood spacers in between the blocks. You will use spacers for straight walls and walls with turns. Use a pencil to lightly trace around the entire chain of cinder blocks you set up. Trace around all 4 sides and mark where the spacers are, as well. Then pick the cinder blocks up and put them aside. The mortar should completely cover the area where the first block will sit. Use a trowel to add mortar to the area between your traced lines. Spread the mortar to be about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. You can use premixed mortar or buy a bag of mortar mix and mix it yourself according to the package directions. Mixing it yourself is usually the cheaper option. Line the cinder block up right over the prepared area, then gently lower it onto the mortar. Push the cinder block into the mortar very gently until it's sitting 3⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) above the footing. The "ears" are the 2 protrusions (also called flanges) running from top to bottom on both ends of every cinder block. Buttering the ears simply means use your trowel to apply mortar directly on top of both flanges on 1 end of a cinder block. This connects the flanges of this block to the flanges of the 1 already in place.  You only need to use enough mortar to thinly cover the surface of the ears. You only need to use mortar on the ears. Do not apply it to the space between the ears. Slide the block into the preceding block until their mortars meet. Keep pushing until there's only about 3⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) of mortar between each block. Spread 1 inch (2.5 cm) of mortar on the footing within the lines you traced for the block. Line the new block directly over the area, then gently place it on top of the mortar. Push the block into the mortar until it's sitting 3⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) above the footing. Butter the ears of the next block and...


Lay out the frame for your stage platform. Secure the 2x4s together using wood screws. Connect the legs to your platform. Brace the legs. Fasten the stage platform to the frame. Build multiple platforms to create a larger performing area.

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Lay the 3’9” pieces of 2x4s parallel to each other with approximately 4 feet (1.2 m) between each piece. Arrange two 8 foot (2.4 m) pieces of 2x4s at the top and bottom of the 3’9” sections to create a frame. The wood should form a rectangle with one 3’9” section separating the rectangle into two squares. Drill a pilot hole to prevent your wood from splitting. Use two screws at each joint to fasten the pieces of wood together.  Attach two 3’9” pieces of wood between the ends of the two 8’ pieces of wood. The 8’ 2x4 will be on the outside of the 2 shorter pieces. The shorter pieces of 2x4 will be between the 8’ pieces. The measurement from the outside edge to the opposite outside edge is 48”. Place the third 3’9” piece of 2x4 in the middle to support the center of the platform. Center the wood 48” from the end of the 8’ 2x4. The 2’ sections of wood that were cut will serve as the legs. Hold or clamp the legs in place to drill a guide hole for a bolt. Drill two holes for each leg all the way through the leg and the frame.  Place one leg at each corner of the frame. Attach the legs to the 8’ piece of 2x4 not the shorter cross beams. Slide a washer on the 3” bolt and insert it into the holes. Place another washer on the other end of the bolt and fasten it to the wood with a nut. Tighten the bolts using a socket wrench while holding the nut with the pliers. The 2x4s cut with the 45º angle will act as a brace f or the legs. One side of the angle cut 2x4 will be against the leg, and the other side will be flush with the top of the platform.  Drill pilot holes from the angle cut 2x4 into the leg. Drill pilot holes in the side of the angle cut 2x4 into the beam of the stage frame. Fasten the brace to the legs and frame using 3” wood screws. Turn the platform over on its legs. Place a sheet of plywood on the frame. Attach the plywood to the frame using 1 ½” wood screws.  Use a drill with a screwdriver bit to drive the screws into the wood. Place a screw around the perimeter of the wood every 16 inches. Insert two...


Lay out the shape of your driveway with stakes. Install the forms for your driveway. Use fill material to make sure your base is thick enough. Compact the fill material and soil with a plate compactor. Add reinforcing steel to the concrete if you choose.

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You can do this by driving small wooden or metal stakes at points where the drive will egress the street, then at the top of the driveway, then tying builder's line on them, to help you visualize the path of the driveway.  Check frequently to ensure your layout matches the driveway plan you developed. Be sure the length and width are correct, otherwise you may end up over or under ordering the concrete. Typically, these will be 1 inch (2.5 cm) by 4 inches (10 cm) pieces of nominal lumber, anchored with wooden stakes sufficiently to support the form boards.  These stakes are driven into the soil with a sledgehammer at a spacing to keep the form boards 'on grade and straightly aligned.  For curving drives, Masonite or plywood that is strong enough to support the concrete load, but flexible enough to bend.  Using screws and a power drill will make it easy to assemble and then disassemble your forms when you’re done. Place your stakes every 3 feet (0.91 m) or so to make sure the form holds. Usually driveways are at least 4 inches (10 cm) thick; for heavier vehicles or difficult to stabilize soil conditions, thicker concrete is suggested.  Grading is done by placing a straightedge or tying a string across the top of your forms and measuring down to the soil, to the correct depth. When you spot areas that aren’t even with the rest, add material or remove it to make the grade even. Add gravel or crushed rock to places that aren’t as high as the rest. Compactor tools can be rented from a local tool rental establishment, or if there is none available, you can use a hand tamp, from your local hardware store. The important thing is that the compaction of the soil is what will support the weight of the concrete, as well as the subsequent load of vehicles using the drive, so it’s important to have compacted, stable fill material.  Adding a little water as you compact the material can make the process more effective. You may need to use more fill material on looser soil to keep it even. This can be a mat of steel...


Lay out your clothing. Throw away damaged clothing. Choose clothing to donate. Store clothing.

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Pull all of your clothes from your wardrobe and lay them out on your bed. Organize the clothing by type and place them into piles. This will allow you to easily sort through your clothing while you decide what to keep and what to throw away. Wash and dry any dirty clothing. If half of your wardrobe is dirty, you won’t be able to properly sort through your wardrobe. If a piece of clothing has large stains or irreparable tears, throw it away. Be realistic about what you can and can’t fix. Small tears in seams can be easily repaired, but larger holes are harder to mend. If the job is too advanced for your sewing skills, consider throwing the clothing away.  Don’t donate torn or stained clothing. The volunteers who receive the donation will have to trash them anyway. If expensive clothing is damaged, see a tailor. However, less expensive damaged clothing may not be worth the cost of the repairs. Sort through your undamaged clothing to find items to donate. Be harsh with yourself and remember that you’re trying to reduce the amount of clothing that you wear. Place donated clothing in large clean plastic bags and take them to your local clothing donation center. While sorting, ask yourself:  ”If I was shopping right now, would I buy this?”  ”Have I worn this in the past two years?” ”Is this piece of clothing too small or two big?” ”Do I feel good when I wear this?” Any seasonal or sentimental items can be stored away until they’re needed. This will help clear up wardrobe space for other items or organizational tools. Bins of packed clothing can be stored under your bed, in a storage closet, or above your wardrobe.  Delicate items such as silk or cashmere should be wrapped in tissue paper and stored in canvas storage bags. Regular clothing can be folded and stacked in large plastic bins. Only store clean clothes.


Lay out your fabric. Find the center of your circle. Trace your circle’s outline. Cut your circle out and repeat. Cut two rectangles from each fabric.

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You will be making identical cuts from each, so start with either fabric. The first thing you will be cutting out is a circle with a circumference of 170 inches (4.32 m), so unroll a little more than 54 inches (1.37 m), which is the diameter. Spread the fabric nice and flat on your worktable.  In case you need a refresher, the circumference of a circle is the total distance around its edge. The diameter is the distance of a straight line drawn from one side, through the center, to the opposite side. The radius is the distance of a straight from the center to one side. Start by stretching a measuring tape out to 54 inches (1.37 m). Measure the fabric lengthwise down its middle and make a mark at least 27 inches (0.69 m) from its free end. Then measure the fabric’s width along this mark to double-check that you still have 27 inches of fabric on either side of it.  If you don’t, simply make a second mark that is even with the first and at least 27 inches from either side. Use a fabric pencil or chalk to make your marks and outlines, since these will wash away when you’re all done. Ask a partner to help you with this. First, cut a length of string roughly 40 inches (1 m) long. Tie one end to your fabric pencil or chalk. Now use your measuring tape to measure 27 inches (0.69 m) along the string. Carefully tie the other end to a straight pin, capped pen, or similar object, so that the string is exactly 27 inches long when pulled tight. Then:  Have your partner place the point of their pen, pin, or whatever in the center mark of your circle. Pull the string tight between the two of you so that your chalk or fabric pencil is exactly 27 inches away from their pen or pin. Have your partner keep their pen or pin perfectly still and straight as you circle the table, tracing a perfect circle over your fabric as you go. Be sure to keep the string pulled tight between the two of you until you complete your circuit. Also make sure that both of you keep your tools perfectly vertical, not at an angle, as you pull the string...


Lay out your first curtain segment on your ironing board. Iron across the width. Hang your segment of curtain Finish the curtains.

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There are many ways you can lay out your curtain, and you may find that some work better for you than others. To prevent missing wrinkles and make hanging the curtain easier on yourself, you may want to work from the top of the curtain down.  You can identify the top of the curtain easily by looking for the curtain rod loops or pockets. When ironing from one end to another, you'll likely need to reposition your curtains several times throughout the process. If your iron doesn't have a stream or spray feature, take your water bottle and spray the curtain with clean water a few times until it is damp. Pass your iron back and forth over the width of the curtain until wrinkles are smoothed and work your way toward its bottom.  It's unlikely you'll be able to iron your entire curtain on your board all at once. As you work farther down the curtain, you can adjust your curtain so that the already ironed top portion hangs off the end of your ironing board. Continue until the ironed portion almost reaches the floor. It's very common for a curtain to wrinkle after ironing. By allowing your ironed curtain to hang loosely off the edge of your ironing board until it almost reaches the floor, it's unlikely bunching or re-wrinkling will occur. . Roughly one half to two-thirds of your curtain should be ironed at this point. By hanging the ironed portion of your curtain now, there'll be less of a chance it will wrinkle and you'll still be able to finish the un-ironed part. To do this you should:  Disassemble your curtain rod. Feed the rod through the tabs, pockets, or hanging loops at the top of the curtain. Hang the curtain and rod in place. The remaining un-ironed part of your curtain should hang low enough for you to finish the ironing. If you have a low ironing board, it may be difficult to iron enough curtain to allow the un-ironed remainder to reach your board after hanging so you can finish ironing it. In this case, you may want to bring a stool or something you can drape the ironed part of your curtain over to keep it...


Lay out your quilt top. Measure the dimensions.

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Place your quilt top right side down, which means that the colorful print side of your jelly roll quilt top needs to be facing down. Make sure that that the surface you use is flat, clean, and dry. Smooth out the quilt top. If the quilt top is bunching up then you can use some duct tape to secure it at the corners and ensure that it is fully extended. Use your tape measure to find the dimensions of your quilt top. Your quilt’s width should be about 50 inches, but this may vary. Measure the width and length of your quilt top to be sure how much fabric your will need for the batting and inner facing fabric.


Lay the bag on a table and flatten the top to remove excess air.

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Shake your bag a little to collect the chips at the bottom of the bag. Place your bag on a flat surface and lay it on its back so that the label is facing up. Then, use the palm of your hand to flatten the upper half of the bag. Do this 4-5 times to crease the sides of the bag.  This method creates the best seal but it requires a little more work. You’ll also need more of the bag to be empty, so you may not be able to do this if your bag is mostly full. This method is really hard to pull off if you have a smaller bag of chips. You’re better off simply folding smaller bags over.


Lay the canvas face down. Mark where the hanger screws will go. Attach the hanger screws. Cut the hanger wire. Attach the first end of the hanger wire.

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The decoration should be right side up. If you are not sure the canvas is right side up, lift the canvas to check. With a pencil, draw a small mark on the stretcher bar that is the top side of the decoration. This will allow you to remember which side is the top. The wire will be in the right location if you keep the canvas right side up. Beginning from the top stretcher bar you just marked, draw a pencil mark 1/4 to 1/3 of the way down the canvas's side stretcher bars. Look at the measurements of the canvas to determine how far down the mark should be.  For example, a painting that is 16 inches (40.7 cm) in length will have a mark about 5 inches (12.7 cm) from the top. Divide the length by 3 to figure this number out. Use the tape measure to draw a mark 1/4 to 1/3 of the way down both sides. Make sure both sides have a mark at the exact same spot. Screw each eye screw into the stretcher bar at the two points marked. Do not damage the decorated area of the canvas while attaching the screws. Add 6 to 8 inches (15.2 to 20.3 cm) to the width of the canvas to determine the length of wire you will cut.  For example, if your canvas is 24 inches (61 cm) wide, then your hanger wire will be 30 to 32 inches (76.2 to 81.3 cm) long. Measure out the wire length you need with a tape measure. Use long-nose pliers to cut the desired length of hanger wire. First, lay the wire down horizontally on the back of the canvas. Beginning with either side, make a knot by first pulling one end of the wire underneath and through the eyehook. Now, pull the wire half an inch through the eyehook.  Then, take the edge of the wire, and make a “P” shape by pulling the wire underneath itself. This should still be using only half an inch of the wire. Push the tip of the wire through the circle of the “P” shape. Then, pull the wire tightly. The “P” shape will disappear into a knot. Repeat on the other side. The wire should be slack enough to move 1 inch (2.5 cm) when hung on a nail.


Lay the carpet down. Use the power stretcher to pull the carpet into place. Grab the knee kicker to finish the stretching. Trim the excess carpet. Secure the carpet at doorways.

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Trim the padding with a carpet cutter if you haven’t already done so with a utility knife. Then, lay down the carpet over the padding. Set the power stretcher down over the part of the carpet you are working with and want to be stretched. If you are installing new carpet instead of just stretching existing carpet, measure it out and cut it ahead of time to make it easier to lay down. Place the base of the stretcher against the wall the carpet is anchored to. Lengthen the adjustment rod of the power stretcher until its head is about 6 inches (15.2 cm) from the carpet's un-anchored edge. Press down on the lever of the power stretcher to smooth out the carpet wrinkles.  If the lever requires too much pressure to push down, you're stretching the carpet too tight. Likewise, if it takes almost no effort to push the lever down, you aren't stretching it tight enough. If you are trying to stretch carpet in a part of a room where the power stretcher is too big to fit, you’ll want to use the knee kicker. To use the knee kicker, place its head about 6 inches (15.2 cm) from the wall and use your leg (just above the kneecap) to finish the stretch. This tool also comes in handy for going back over the carpet after the power stretcher has done the bulk of the work, to give any trouble spots some extra care. Push the edges of the stretched carpet down into the tack strips. The carpet should also push down slightly (be embedded) in the space between the tack strips and the wall. Then, use the carpet cutter to remove any excess that is butting up against the wall. If you are using a utility knife, cut very slowly and cautiously so you don't over-trim. If you are stretching carpet over or through doorways, you’ll need to pick up some additional materials at the hardware or flooring supply store. Look for transition molding that can be nailed in place over the carpet in the doorway. This will help hold the carpet in the high-traction area.  Transition molding can also be used to cover carpet seams. If you have questions about how...


Lay the child with their head between your thighs and their arms under your legs. Wait for their eyes to close. Place the drops right next to the tear duct of the eyelids. Wait for the child to open their eyes. Wipe away the excess.

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This will help restrict the child's movements while giving you free use of both hands. Do not sit on their arms, but apply gentle pressure with your thighs. This will also keep their head relatively still. The goal is to quickly drop in the medicine while they are restrained. If they are thrashing and crying, it may be difficult to open their eyes. If they are not cooperating, you can apply the medicine to their closed eyes. Watch for when their head is still and their eyes are closed for longer than a second before applying the drops. This is the corner of the eye closest to the nose. Use the prescribed number of drops. The drops will pool along the tear duct. Do this as quickly as possible, and they may not even realize that you have have done it. The medicine should roll into their eyes. If it does not, you can have the child tilt their head until it does. If the child is hesitant or won’t open their eyes, just wait — eventually the eyes will open. When the child opens their eye, the drops will partially roll in.  If they refuse to open their eyes, place your index finger on their upper eyelid and your thumb on the lower. Gently pry open the eye so that the medicine can run in. If the medicine does not touch their eyeball, you may need repeat the process. The closed eye method, although it can work for squirming children, is not as effective as applying the medicine directly to the eye. With a tissue, gently remove any excess medication from their eyelids. Wash your hands immediately afterwards. Remember to wash your child’s hands as well.


Lay the flounder on a flat surface and hold it firmly by the tail. Scrape the back of a knife from the tail to the head. Flip the fish over and scrape the other side. Rinse the flounder under cool running water to remove excess scales.

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Most healthy flounder are covered in a fine layer of clear slime which keeps them safe in the water. To remove this, you have to scale the flounder. Place the flounder on a clean, flat surface such as a cutting board. Place your non-dominant hand on the tail to hold it in place. Removing the scales can be business. If you’re worried about messing up the kitchen, place a layer of newspaper or a plastic bag over the cutting board for easier clean up. Hold a knife with the blunt side flat on the flounder’s skin. Then, drag the knife along the skin until you reach the head of the fish. Repeat this motion, working from the tail to the head, until all of the slime and most of the scales have been removed.  Remember to rinse off your knife as needed to remove excess slime and scales from the back of the blade. If you have a fish scraper, you can use that instead of the back of a knife. Once you’ve removed the scales and slime from one side, pick up the flounder and turn it over to expose the other side. Hold the tail again with your non-dominant hand, and scrape from the tail to the head with the back of the knife. Don’t worry about setting the fish on top of some of the scales that have flaked off. You’ll be rinsing the flounder after you scale it. Carefully transfer the fish to a sink and turn on the cool water. Be sure to clean both sides of the fish, and use your hands to rub the skin and remove any scales that may be stuck to the surface. The skin should feel clean, not slimy or slick. If it does feel slimy, try scaling both sides again to see if any additional slime collects on the knife.


Lay the foundation of your outfit with the right pair of jeans. Layer your tops for maximum effect. Wear Chuck Taylor sneakers or boots. Accessorize with bold and eclectic jewelry. Loop a black, studded leather belt through your pair of jeans. Tack some pins and badges onto your bag and jacket.

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As Jett’s career has spanned several decades, she has rocked all colors, kinds, and cuts of denim over the years.  Be them boot cut, flared, skinny, or straight leg, any cut of jeans can channel Joan Jett’s tough, retro style.  The key to making any pair work is fit and color.  As a general rule, opt for darker washes of blue, slate gray, or black denim.  Lighter washes can work if you’re going for an old-school Ramones vibe, but make sure they’re obviously stone-washed or bleached or otherwise vintage.  No matter what cut of jeans you select, go for a slim fitting leg.  Skinny jeans and slim straight legs look great with Jett’s signature sneakers, but boot cuts and flares can also look long and sleek if they’re fitted properly. Get creative.  Distressed or cuffed details on your denim can add visual interest and edge to your Jett-inspired outfit.  If your jeans feel a little bare or simple, consider spiffing them up with a few safety pins, metal studs, or a DIY bleach job. Joan’s style is famously androgynous, so the key to mimicking her look is balancing feminine articles with masculine ones.  For your bottom layer, pick out a black tank top or white wife-beater that goes with anything.  If you’re fresh out of these undergarment staples, a lacy camisole or ripped-up band T-shirt will serve just as well. Pop a leather motorcycle jacket, destructed sweater, or masculine blazer over your bottom layer.  Dark colors should dominate your outfit, but inject flashes of color—particularly reds, oranges, and pinks—to amp up the attitude. While Jett was known to rock a heel from time to time, her signature look has to be the Chucks.  Though Chucks come in all hues and prints, opt for a darker shade to complement your dark denim. If you’re not in the mood for sneakers, a pair of combat or motorcycle boots will always work.  For a cheaper alternative to real leather, pick up a pair of vegan leather booties or ankle boots. If you’re going for Joan’s glam-rock, concert-ready look, some retro glitter wedges or...


Lay the groundwork for an early and ongoing dialogue. Ask for their impressions of drugs. Distinguish between prescription medications and illicit drugs. Stick to the facts. Use media messages to stimulate discussions.

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Your job is to open the lines of communication about drugs and keep them open, so start early. Use everyday situations, such as giving your child cough syrup to discuss your expectations regarding drug use. During such a situation, you might say, “You should never take medicine unless it is given to you by a doctor, nurse, or an adult family member. Taking medicine from someone else could be dangerous.” Figure out where you should focus your efforts by teasing out your child’s perspective about drugs. Are they already well aware of the danger of drugs? If so, you’ll know how to tailor your message.  You might say something like, “So, what do you know about drugs?” Listen actively to their response. Then, respond by providing some fundamental information and correcting any misconceptions. Clarify when it’s okay to take drugs and when it’s not. Give an age-appropriate explanation depending on what your child is able to understand.  You might tell your child that taking their antibiotics helps their body heal from strep throat. However, even if a medication is prescribed by a doctor, they should only take medications that belong to them, not someone else. Depending on your child’s age and developmental level, you might simply say “Drugs you get from the doctor are okay, but the drugs you get off the streets or from friends are dangerous.” For a very young child, you could say, "Taking drugs is bad for you, just like eating off the ground." Give your child the rundown on how drugs affect the body, the brain, and a person’s behavior. If necessary, try showing them a YouTube video or a drug-free pamphlet to provide a visual explanation.  This might sound like, “Drugs can change the way your brain works, making you want more and more of them over time— that’s an addiction. These changes can cause you to struggle in school, not want to hang out with friends, and even get you into trouble with the police. Then, if you suddenly stop taking them, your body might become very sick because it’s used to having the drug.”...


Lay the guitar down on a flat surface. Choose a wood sealer. Apply wood sealer to the guitar. Allow the guitar to dry and apply three to five coats of sealer. Let the sealer dry for three days. Sand off the shiny portions of the sealer.

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Lay down drop cloths under the guitar so that the paint doesn't stain the surface that you're painting on. Rest the guitar on top of the drop cloths with the back of the guitar facing up. You can purchase wood sealer online or at a hardware store. Purchase a water based wood sealer that has a high gloss. Use a white sealer if you're painting your guitar a lighter color. If you're painting it a dark color, apply a gray sealer. Saturate a dry rag in the sealer. Once the rag is saturated, drag it along the grain on the surface of your guitar. Make long movements and do not scrub in a concentrated area with the sealer. Once the back of the guitar is sealed, allow it to dry for 10 minutes, then turn the guitar over and finish sealing the front and sides. Once your rag looks dirty, dispose of it and use another, clean rag.  Remove the shielding in the electronics bay, Apply the sealer into all pickup and electronics cavities and neck pocket, being careful not to let it puddle in these areas. These areas are often overlooked and allow moisture to enter the wood. Let the sealer dry for an hour or two and come back and apply another even coat of sealer. The sealer will help the colored coats of paint adhere to the body of the guitar much easier. Continue adding more coats of sealer until you've covered the guitar three to five times in total.  Remember to let the sealer dry for an hour or two in between each new application. Once the guitar is properly sealed, the wood grain will be a much darker color. Feel over the sealer to make sure that it's no longer wet or sticky. Make sure that the guitar dries in a well-ventilated area so no one gets sick from the sealer's fumes. Using a 200 grit sandpaper, carefully sand over the shiny parts of the sealer. Make sure not to sand too hard or you may expose the wood grain underneath. If you do do this, simply reapply more coats of sealer to the guitar and allow it to dry before moving on. When you're done, the guitar should have a dull white or gray color.


Lay the handkerchief on a flat surface. Pinch the middle with your dominant hand. Slide your non-dominant hand down the handkerchief. Gather up the corners. Stuff the handkerchief into your pocket.

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Make sure the surface is clean before you lay the handkerchief down. There’s no need to smooth the handkerchief out for this fold. It also does not matter how the corners are aligned. Using your thumb and index finger, pinch the center of the handkerchief and lift it up off of the table. The handkerchief will be hanging loose. The part you pinch will be the part that sticks out of your pocket. With the hand not already holding the handkerchief, form a circle around the cloth with thumb and index finger. Gently slide your circled fingers down the handkerchief, gathering it more tightly together. Start at the top and stop once your hand is about halfway down the handkerchief. Let go of the pinched part and hold with your non-dominant hand. Then use your dominant hand to fold the corners up behind your other hand. When you place the handkerchief in your pocket, the corners will rest against your chest. As you fit the puff into your pocket, it may take a little more adjusting than other pocket square folds. Stuff it to the bottom of your pocket, then gently pull out a couple of inches. Adjust the shape to your taste.  The puff fold is not good for formal occasions. Use it to add a touch of classiness to a casual suit in non-formal settings. Feel free to use a patterned handkerchief as this fold is casual anyway.


Lay the handkerchief with corners at the top and bottom. Fold the bottom corner up to the top corner. Pull the left corner across to the middle of the bottom. Fold the right corner over to the left edge. Stuff the handkerchief into your pocket.

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On a flat, clean surface, lay the handkerchief out flat and smooth it as much as possible. One corner should be near you and one should be opposite you. Lift the corner that is closest to you and fold it up to the further corner. Make sure the edges are lined up as much as possible. With your left hand holding the handkerchief down against the table, smooth the crease with your right hand. Place the index finger of your right hand in the middle of the crease at the bottom of the handkerchief. Lift the left corner and fold it across to the spot where your finger is. Take the index finger of your left hand and place it on the bottom left corner of the handkerchief. Lift the right corner with your right hand and fold it over to the place of your left index finger.  Be sure to smooth out all of the creases again. At this point, you can also iron the handkerchief briefly to make the creases are nice and tight. Gently stuff the flat part of the handkerchief into your pocket, leaving 1-2 inches of the point sticking out the top of the pocket.  When you place it into your pocket, the folded parts should be against your chest. Ideally, the bottom of the handkerchief will rest on the bottom of the pocket, but it depends on the relative size of the pocket and handkerchief. This style works best with a solid color pocket square. The one point fold is good for formal or semi-formal occasions.


Lay the handkerchief with the top two corners horizontal. Fold it in half so it forms a long rectangle. Fold the handkerchief in half lengthwise again. Fold the bottom up almost to the top. Stuff the handkerchief fold-first into your pocket.

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If it has been recently washed, or has been folded for a long time, you may want to  iron it so you can start with it unwrinkled. You can lay it on your dresser if you are in your bedroom, or the kitchen table or countertop.  Make sure the surface you lay it on is clean and dry so you don’t mess up the handkerchief. Pay attention to the fabric type and follow guidelines for ironing that particular fabric. Fold the left side across so it lines up evenly with the right side. You want to make sure the edges stay lined up. You can iron the fold to add  crispness to the crease. If you are using a small handkerchief or pocket square, you may not need to perform this second fold. It depends on the size of the handkerchief and the size of the pocket you will place it in.  If folding it in half a second time makes it too narrow, you can try folding it just a third of the way across on the second fold. If you fold it a second time and it is still too wide for the pocket, then you should consider using a smaller handkerchief. You don’t want the part you have folded to stick out of the top of the pocket, so pay attention to how much you should fold it. You also need to pay attention to how deep the pocket is to make sure the handkerchiefs sits on the bottom of the pocket. You’ll want to look at yourself in a mirror, or get the help of a friend, to make sure the pocket square is sticking out of your pocket just the right amount. You want roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) or less to be peeking out of the pocket. This look is best for formal, black-tie attire. A white pocket square with a black suit is the perfect look.


Lay the mat out flat. Position your straight edge alongside the measuring line. Score the mat along the measurement line. Continue slicing until the blade clears the mat. Fine-tune your cuts for a custom fit. Clean up your work area.

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Unfold or unroll the mat and stretch it out over the floor of your work area. Thinner mats may bunch up in spots and create wrinkles or bumps. Be sure to smooth these out before you proceed.  If you’re attempting to cut interlocking sectional mats, put them together first to help them stay put. Consider using a few heavy objects to weight down the edges of the mat while you work. Line up the tool so that the markings you made earlier are just visible. The straight edge will help guide the blade of the utility knife and keep you on track.  Be careful not to accidentally cover up the line, or the mat may end up being slightly too big or too small for your floorspace. If you don’t have a straight edge handy, you could also try using a 2x4. The heavy board will provide the added benefit of holding the mat in place. Run the tip of the utility knife along the surface of the mat. Work your way down the length a few feet at a time. On your first pass, you're just concentrating on getting a shallow groove started. You’ll go back and deepen the cut on subsequent passes. Dipping the blade of the utility knife in soapy water will enable it to glide effortlessly through the rubber. Press down on the mat with one hand and carefully go back over the slit you just made with the other. Apply firm downward pressure and use long, linear strokes to achieve cleaner edges. It may take you 3-5 individual passes to get all the way through, depending on the thickness of the rubber.  For most efficient results, keep moving from one end of the mat to the other, rather than separating a single section at a time. That way, the whole strip will come away in one piece.  Be sure to keep the hand you’re using to steady the mat clear of your knife at all times. Unlike other types of flooring that comes in rigid, angular sections, rubber is soft enough to shape any way you need. This means you’ll be able to make modifications to the material in areas that would otherwise present a problem.   When properly trimmed, rubber mats will lay...


Lay the napkin down in front of you on a flat surface. Position the square so that the open corner is at the top left. Bring the top layer down diagonally so it creates a triangle. Turn the napkin back over to reveal a diagonal pouch for the silverware.

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For this fold, use either a square or rectangle napkin. It helps if the napkin has already been ironed so that the final presentation will look really nice. It’s nearly impossible to make nice folds without a flat surface. Wipe down a table, counter, or desk to use for your folding tasks. The open corner is the one with the loose edges that can be folded back. You should be able to count 4 layers of the napkin. Turning the napkin this way is just to help you keep things straight as you’re folding. Fold the corner of the top layer so that it is flush with the bottom-right corner. Leave all the other layers in place. This creates the pouch that you will eventually be able to put silverware into. When you flip the napkin over again, you’ll see that there is now a tight pouch into which you can slip the silverware for your meal. Keep the back of the napkin against the table to hold the folds in place. You can set this napkin on top of a dinner plate, or you can put it off to the side of the plate, just depending on what look you prefer.