Measure out ingredients as your meat finishes roasting. Remove the roast from the oven and set aside the meat. Strain the fat out from the liquid. Heat the fat on the stove on medium heat. Deglaze the pan with a splash of cool liquid and a whisk. Whisk in 2 tablespoons (29.6 ml) of flour, one at a time. Add the 2 cups of warmed liquid slowly and whisk well. Cook over medium-low heat for 10-15 minutes, or until desired thickness. Season the gravy as it thickens. Consider straining the gravy before serving. Serve warmed.

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The best gravy is made from pan drippings -- the juices and fats that come off the meat as it finishes roasting. This could be a beef roast, a chicken, or a turkey. When the meat has a few minutes to go, get your other ingredients out and ready to mix into your gravy:  2 tablespoons flour or cornstarch 2 cups pre-warmed liquid (chicken/beef/vegetable stock, water, milk) Salt and pepper to taste All roasts need to "stand" for 5-10 minutes before being cut up, so you have a little time to make your gravy. Tent the meat by placing foil loosely over the top and set it aside on a cutting board while you attend to the pan drippings. Using a fine mesh sieve, separate the fat from the liquid. Save both. The fat will function just like the butter used for a basic gravy, mixing with the flour to form a roux. For quicker gravy, you can skip this step and simply heat up 2 tablespoons of drippings. However, the chunks of fat will lead to a lumpier, potentially less flavorful, gravy. They should still be warm, but this is especially important if you've moved the drippings to another pan. However, you can also just make the gravy in your roasting pan as well. Simply put the metal pan over two burners on the stove, add the fat back in, and heat up both burners. Use a splash of red wine, water, or stock and then scrape up any brown bits of meat and juice from the bottom of the pan. As soon as you add the liquid you'll likely get a loud sizzle, and you need to work quickly with a whisk or spatula to scrape up all the stuff on the bottom of the pan. Deglazing is when you use a cool liquid to clean a hot pan, removing the flavorful, caramelized bits and adding them to your sauce or gravy. Using a wire whisk, add the flour slowly with one hand while whisking with the other. You want to make a smooth, consistent sauce. Keep whisking until you've removed all the lumps. Lower the heat to medium-low and pour in your liquid 1/4 cup at a time. Whisk it in, removing lumps, then add the next 1/4 cup. Start by using the strained pan...


Measure out rice and water. Lock the cooker. Bring your pressure up. Release the pressure. Open lid and fluff the rice.

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Pour your desired measurement of rice into your pressure cooker. Add water according to the type and quantity of rice you are using. One cup of white rice, for instance, needs 1.5 cups of water.  Substitute all or part of the water with a liquid for flavoring if you wish, such as chicken broth, vegetable broth, or prepared bouillion. Never fill the pressure cooker more than halfway with the rice and liquid. Add a teaspoon of butter, olive oil, or an oil of your choice to the rice for flavor if you like. Close and lock the lid on your pressure cooker by fastening the handle of the cover to the handle for the body of the pot, or however your model is intended to close according to the instruction manual. Place the cooker on a burner of your stove. If you are using an electric pressure cooker, plug it into an outlet and turn it on. Set the burner on your stove to high heat until your pressure cooker indicates high pressure, then lower the heat to maintain this pressure for three minutes. Check your specific instruction manual for how to properly read the pressure on your cooker.  If you are using an electric pressure cooker, set it to high pressure for three minutes. The cooker will take a few minutes to pressure up before the three minutes of cooking time.  Lower the heat right away after your cooker reaches high pressure, otherwise your rice can become quickly overcooked. When the three minutes cooking time is up, take the pressure cooker off the burner for a 10-minute natural pressure release, meaning the pressure built up inside releases naturally when taken off of heat. The rice will continue to cook while the pressure is slowly released. For an electric cooker, turn it off when the timer beeps and set it to a natural pressure release for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes of natural release, do a quick release on your pressure cooker to open the lid. Tilt the cooker away from you when opening the lid to avoid the hot steam. Fluff the rice with a fork and serve.


Measure out some iron oxide shavings. Add the measured out iron oxide to the putty. Work the iron oxide into the putty. Test the magnetic nature of the putty.

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Silly Putty often comes in 0.8 ounce containers. For this much putty, a tablespoon of iron oxide should do. More iron oxide will make it more magnetic, but too much will be hard to work into the putty. You can always add more later if you desire. As a rule of thumb, for every ounce of silly putty, a tablespoon of iron oxide should be used. So if you made your own silly putty and used 2 ounces of glue and 2 ounces of starch, you have 4 ounces of putty, so 4 tablespoons of iron oxide should be use. Pour a tablespoon of iron oxide shavings across the stretched out putty. The iron oxide should go onto the center of the putty. Fold the putty up and then flatten it out again. Keep kneading until it is black all throughout. Just keep squishing together the putty with the iron oxide in it. As you do, the iron oxide will become evenly spread throughout the putty. After the putty loses all its color due to the iron oxide, keep massaging and squishing the putty for 3-4 minutes. Be aware that normal magnets aren't likely to be strong enough. You might want to use rare earth magnets like neodymium to work with this putty.  You can always add more iron oxide if the magnetic putty isn't reacting enough with magnets. Just sprinkle more iron oxide shavings into the putty and knead and squish it again. The stronger the magnet, the better it will react with the magnetic putty, and the more iron oxide you put in the putty, the better it will react with magnets.


Measure out the desired quantity of rice. Rinse the rice Soak the rice (optional). Heat water to a full boil, then add the rice. Cover the pot and reduce heat. Simmer for 15–20 minutes (6–10 for soaked rice). Strain the rice in a colander.

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Long grain rice will expand to triple its size during cooking, so take this into account when deciding how much to make. (optional). Adding cold water to the rice and draining it will remove loose starches without losing nutrients. This may result in fluffier rice, although some milling processes leave little excess starch to remove. If you don't have a strainer, simply tilt the saucepan carefully so only the water drains, using a wooden spoon if necessary to keep the rice in. Some people prefer to soak the rice beforehand to reduce cooking time and improve the texture, but you can skip this step and still achieve an excellent result. Use twice as much water as rice by volume and soak for 20 minutes. Drain the water afterward. Use twice as much water as rice by volume or slightly more. Optionally, add salt and oil for flavor. Let the pot boil with the rice in it for 1 or 2 minutes, then place a lid over the pot and reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting. Make sure the lid is on tight to keep in the steam. Long grain rice usually takes about 20 minutes to cook without previous soaking, but you can check earlier if you're worried about overcooking. When ready, the rice has lost its crunch but remains firm. If the grains are falling apart into mush, the rice is overcooked. Only lift the lid slightly when checking and put it back on as soon as possible to keep the steam in. It is now ready to serve or use in another recipe. Butter or savory herbs such as thyme or oregano make a bland rice dinner appealing. Add them during boiling for a strong flavor or stir in after the rice is cooked.


Measure out the ingredients. Mix the dry ingredients. Add the wet ingredients. Melt butter in a hot pan. Pour on one third of the mixture at a time. Flip after several minutes. Serve with your favorite topping.

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You can also measure out each ingredient as you go if you wish. We recommend the first choice — it makes cleanup easier when you're cooking for one since you can just dump the dirty measuring dishes in the sink as you use them. Add the flour, sugar, and baking powder to a mixing bowl along with a pinch of salt. Stir until uniform. Add milk, egg, and melted butter to the bowl. Stir until well-combined. The egg may take some light beating to get yellow streaks of yolk to disappear. Set a pan on the stove over medium-high heat. Add a generous knob of butter (about one to two tablespoons). Use a spatula to move the butter around and coat the bottom of the pan. Let it melt completely and heat until frothing. You should have about enough batter for three medium-sized pancakes. If your pan is big enough, you can cook multiple pancakes in different parts of the pan at once. For smaller pans, try cooking a single pancake at once. After about three minutes, use a spatula to lift up the edges of the pancake. If they come away from the pan easily and have a satisfying golden-brown color, you are ready to flip. If they seem mushy and have a pale yellow color, let them cook a little longer.  To flip a pancake, slide a spatula all the way under and lift it away from the hot pan. With a single turning motion of the wrist, flip the pancake over and let the uncooked side hit the hot pan. Add a little extra butter to the pan as needed to prevent the pancakes from sticking. When the second side of each pancake is finished, transfer it out of the pan and onto a clean plate. You should soon have a stack of roughly three fluffy pancakes. You are ready to flavor your pancakes and enjoy. A few recommended toppings are listed below:  Syrup (plain or maple) Whipped cream Chopped fruit Chocolate sauce Butter Honey Peanut butter Ice cream Pinch of cinnamon


Measure out the potting material you need into a large bucket or bowl. Cover the potting mix with hot water. Strain the potting mix. Remove the orchid from its old pot. Remove the old potting mix and dead roots. Get the new pot ready.

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Fill your new orchid pot with the potting mix, then dump it into a container about twice its size. To prepare orchid potting mix, you'll need to soak it in water overnight. This will help it retain enough moisture to sustain the orchid. Go ahead and fill the bucket or bowl to the top with hot water. Don't use cold water, since the potting materials won't absorb this as well. Be sure the soil is at room temperature before repotting the orchid. You can use a strainer that you'd normally use for food (you'll want to clean it well afterward) or a large piece of cheesecloth. Drain out all the water so that all you're left with is wet potting mix. Run more warm water over the mix to rinse out any dust. Carefully lift the orchid from its old pot, loosening each root individually. If the roots are stuck to the pot, use sterilized scissors or knife to help free them. It's important to use very clean equipment, because orchids are prone to getting diseases. You can sterilize your trimming tools by wiping them with rubbing alcohol on a rag. Use your fingers and a clean pair of scissors to carefully clean up the roots. Pick out the old mix - charcoal, wood chips, moss, and so on - and discard it. Use the scissors to clip away rotten or dead roots, taking care not to damage any healthy plant matter.   Roots that are soft and limp are probably dead, so go ahead and remove them. Untangle the roots carefully by easing them apart with your fingers. If you're using a pot that you've used before for orchids, clean and sterilize it with boiling water to get rid of toxins and kill potential disease vectors. If the pot is large and deep, line it with broken pieces of terracotta or packing peanuts to help with drainage. If you're using a shallow pot, this step isn't necessary.


Measure out the space your bent pipe will occupy. Divide the rectangle with a centerline. Measure in from the top corners of the rectangle to where the horizontal portion of the bent pipe begins. Measure from the bottom corners to where the lower bend begins. Connect the markings where the bends will be made, using a straightedge or ruler. Lay your 90-degree bend pipe inside the top line of your frame. Slide the pipe until it touches the diagonal you drew. Mark the place where the bend mark intersects the frame line. Rotate the pipe so the other bend mark intersects the diagonal. Repeat the last 4 steps for the other upper corner. Calculate the total length of pipe needed. Cut the pipe. Find and mark the center of the pipe. Lay the pipe against the top line of your layout frame, aligning the pipe's center with the center line. Make each of the upper bends with your bending tool. Make each of the lower bends with your bending tool. Cut off any excess from the ends of the bent pipe.

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If you're making a roll bar for a dune buggy that will occupy a space 60 inches (150 cm) wide by 50 inches (125 cm) high, make a rectangle with these dimensions on a clean space of concrete floor with a piece of chalk. The centerline should bisect the longer (width) sides of the rectangle. If the top of the roll bar should run only 40 inches (100 cm), subtract this length from the width for the bottom, then measure half the distance in from each of the upper corners. This works out to a difference of 20 inches (50 cm), half of which is 10 inches (25 cm), which is the distance to measure in. Mark this distance in from each of the top corners. If the distance from the bottom of the roll bar to the first bend is to be 40 inches (100 cm), measure and mark this distance up from each side of the bottom corners. You can measure the connecting lines with a ruler. In this example, the diagonal line connecting the marks on the horizontal and vertical lines is about 14 inches (70 cm) long. Lay it so that the horizontal straight end touches the inside of the upper horizontal line.   Mark this place on the diagonal.  Add together the measurements from the bottom corners to the first marks, the lengths of pipe between the lower bend, and the length between the upper bend. In the above example, the vertical portions of the roll bar will each be 40 inches (100 cm) long, the diagonal portions will each be 14 inches (70 cm) long, and the horizontal portion will be 40 inches long. The total minimum length of pipe will be 40 + 14 + 40 + 14 + 40 inches (100 + 70 + 100 + 70 + 100 cm), or 144 inches (440 cm) long. Although the minimum length of pipe needed is 144 inches, it's a good idea to allow for error, add at least 4 inches (10 cm), making the total length 148 inches (450 cm). You'll work from this point outward. Mark on the pipe where the upper bends are to start and finish using the marks on the frame. You may also want to mark the direction of your bends by putting arrows on the pipe pointing outward. Be sure the pipe's...


Measure out the sugar.

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Determine how much sugar you want to melt. Since sugar is so tricky to melt evenly without letting it burn, you shouldn't attempt to melt more than 2 cups at a time. If you need more for your recipe, melt a second batch separately.  Use white granular sugar, also known as table sugar. A good rule of thumb when melting sugar is that 2 cups of sugar will make enough melted sugar to make 1 cup of caramel.


Measure out your dry ingredients. Add milk and an egg. Whisk until the batter thickens. Let the batter rest for a few minutes.

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In a large mixing bowl, combine 1 cup of flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 2 teaspoons sugar and a pinch of salt. Stir the dry ingredients together until they’re evenly distributed. Use the bottom of a spoon or ladle to press a small well into the center of the dry mix to make mixing in the other ingredients easier. Baking powder is optional, but will produce fluffier pancakes that rise better during the cooking process. Crack one egg into the well you made in the dry ingredients. Pour roughly ¾ cup of milk into the well. Stir the the egg and milk into the dry ingredients, making sure to beat the egg. For a thicker batter, use slightly less milk.  Add the milk slowly and gradually while you stir. If the batter comes out thicker than you like, you can always add another ounce. If you use too much, however, you’ll have to add more flour, which will throw the recipe off. Some people also like to add about a teaspoon of oil to the batter itself. This can help the ingredients hold together better once they’ve been mixed. Whisk the ingredients together vigorously until it becomes a batter. Try to break up as many of the lumps of flour and baking powder as you can. The batter should be smooth and have a thick, creamy consistency when it’s done. Be careful not to overmix your batter. This can make the pancakes slightly tough and rubbery after they’re cooked. Set a timer for 3-5 minutes and give the batter time to rest. As it sits, it will continue to set up and thicken. Stir the batter occasionally to eliminate air bubbles. While you’re letting the batter rest,  you can begin preparing your cooking surface.  Resting the batter gives the starches time to relax after whisking them together so that the pancake will turn out light and fluffy. This is a good time to add other ingredients to your pancake batter, such as chocolate chips, blueberries, coconut, etc.


Measure out your ingredients. Refrigerate your chocolate for 1 hour before enjoying it.

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For this recipe, you’ll need 1 cup (100 g) of cocoa powder, 1⁄2 cup (120 mL) of coconut oil, 4 tablespoons (59 mL) of honey, and 1⁄2 tablespoon (7.4 mL) of vanilla extract. Use a series of measuring cups to portion out each ingredient in a small cup or bowl.  Measuring your ingredients in advance will make the cooking process more efficient once it comes time to put it all together. If you like, you can also add ¼ cup (25 g) of confectioner’s sugar, 1⁄4 cup (59 mL) of agave syrup, or 3-6 drops of liquid stevia to lend a little more sweetness to your chocolate. Once it’s fully set, it will be firm enough to break into pieces or remove from the mold. Enjoy!  Store your finished chocolate in the refrigerator, or simply keep it in a covered container on your countertop for easy access. Most types of dark chocolate have a shelf life of about 2 years.  If your chocolate begins to melt or soften at room temperature, you can place it back in the refrigerator at any point to harden it back up.


Measure out your sheetrock before hanging. Consider gluing each stud and joist before it receives the drywall. Hang the toughest part first — the ceiling. Mark the stud centers on the ceiling drywall. Cut the drywall using a utility knife and a t-square. Start on the walls once the ceiling is completed. Continue around the room until complete.

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This goes for both ceilings and walls. Measure and cut the sheetrock so each end lands on the center of a stud or joist. Sheetrock joints that are unsupported by a stud or joist will definitely crack. Sand every cut with a Surform plane or rasp or the sheets will not fit. (NEVER use red chalk to snap lines; it will bleed through the finish paint.) Run a bead of glue down each stud that will be covered by the drywall. Do this immediately before hanging. You don't need to run glue down each stud, but it's recommended, and common practice among professionals. The order of hanging the drywall matters. This is a two or three person job if you haven’t rented a drywall “lifter” which lifts the pieces straight up by hydraulics and all you do is nail or screw the pieces to the joists. If you don’t have this machine, build two “T-shaped” supports ("deadmen") to help with this job. Just nail together two 1x3's into a “T” shape, one for each end of the drywall you will be supporting. Make them a little bit more than exact height so you can wedge the sheets to hold them solidly in place. Once the drywall is lifted by hand, the deadmen are slid in under the drywall to wedge it against the ceiling joists while you nail or screw it up. Give up any idea you might have of forcing the sheets into place. They will break or blow out and make a mess. Mark the ceiling joist centers on the top plate (to save much cursing). Always start from a corner when hanging. Never start from the center and hang outwards. Start from one corner and move in a straight perpendicular line. Once you have one row finished, move on to the next row. Make sure to screw or nail the drywall to each stud that it covers. Use a stud finder to locate the stud's position — they should be 16 inches (~40 cm) apart — and then screw or nail four or five evenly-spaced screws into the drywall along the studs. Be sure to install the drywall perpendicular to its framing, whether you're working the ceiling or walls. Because of how drywall is constructed, its strength...


Measure out your tea. Heat your water to boiling. Preheat the teapot. Pour the water over the tea. Steep the tea. Remove the tea leaves and enjoy your tea.

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If your tea comes in bags, you're all set. For loose tea, you'll need approximately 1 teaspoon per 6 ounce serving of water. Use a teaspoon to measure out the correct amount into your tea bag, tea ball or basket filter. Place it inside the cup, mug or teapot you're using.   Note that a 6-ounce serving is standard teacup size. If you're making enough tea for a large mug, you might want to use a little more. If you're making a heavier, denser tea, such as many types of black tea, you can use a little less than a teaspoon per serving. For lighter, bulkier teas, like green teas and herbal teas, use a little more than a teaspoon. After the first few cups you make, you can start measuring out your tea to taste. Measure out a bit more than you need for the tea based on your preferred serving size and boil it. No matter what kind of tea you're brewing, you'll need to bring the water to a full, rolling boil as a first step. You can do this quickly using a tea kettle, but it works just as well to fill a small saucepan with water and heat it up on the stove over high heat. You can also use a microwave to heat your water in a microwave-safe dish. Pour some of the boiling water into the empty teapot and swish it around. Let the entire pot get warm to touch. Discard this water and immediately place the correct amount of tea in pot. Immediately placing the tea into the pot can cause the pot to crack, and preheating it prevents this. If you're making black tea, go ahead and pour the boiling water directly over the tea to begin the steeping process. For green, white or herbal tea, take it off the heat and wait 30 seconds until the boil stops, then pour it over the tea. This prevents the delicate leaves from overcooking, which would result in a bitter taste. If you want to make it an exact science, use a thermometer to take the water's temperature so you can control the flavor of the tea.   Black tea is best steeped at a temperature of 203 degrees Fahrenheit (95 degrees Celsius).  Green tea is best steeped at a temperature of...


Measure the amount of butter you need for your recipe. Let the butter pieces soften for 5 minutes before adding it to your recipe.

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Look at the side of the butter’s wrapper to see the measurements. Use a knife to cut the amount of butter you need for your recipe. If the butter is out of the wrapper, use measuring spoons or a kitchen scale to find the amount that you need. Leave the butter pieces in the bowl and let them heat up to room temperature for about 5 minutes. This will ensure that they’re soft and mix well with any other ingredients you’re using.  Grated butter works best for making crumbles or shortbread since it mixes thoroughly with the other ingredients. You can grate the butter directly in the bowl with your other ingredients if you want.


Measure the amount of stripping you will need twice before cutting it. Cut the stripping with shears or tin snips. Read the directions on your stripping product. Take your door off its hinges if you can’t easily access the bottom. Stick your stripping to the bottom of the door if it has adhesive. Use nails or screws to fasten the stripping if it does not have adhesive. Make sure the door still closes easily once the stripping is installed.

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Even if you already took measurements before buying the stripping, measure your door again before cutting a piece to fit it. If you bought the type of stripping that slides onto the bottom of the door, you can slide on a long piece and mark where to cut it. Foam and felt should cut easily with heavy scissors or shears. For metal or metal-reinforced stripping, you will need a metal saw or tin snips. Wood should be cut with a hand saw. The stripping you bought will most likely have instructions on the packaging that explain how it should be installed. Read these carefully and make sure you have the tools necessary before starting. Some types of stick-on stripping should only be applied in temperatures above 20°F (-6.7°C). Your product’s instructions should say whether this is the case. If you need to attach fasteners to the underside of the door itself, you may have to remove the entire door to access it more easily. Loosen the hinge pins by inserting a nail in the underside of each hinge and tapping it gently with a hammer until the hinge pin begins to move up. Then place the tip of a flat-head screwdriver under the head of the hinge pin and gently tap the bottom of the screwdriver with a hammer until the pin slides out completely. If you are using a stick-on foam or felt product, remove the backing that covers the adhesive part. You may want to do this a section at a time as you attach it to the door, so that the adhesive doesn’t stick to anything else while you’re working with it. Press it firmly against the bottom of your door, making sure to line it up properly before securing it. The product you bought should indicate whether it should be attached with nails, screws or staples. It may also have pre-made holes for the fasteners to attach through. The stripping should fill the gap under your door, but not make it harder to open or close. If it appears to be too big, you may want to start over with a different product.


Measure the angle. Divide the number of degrees in half. Draw a point marking the measurement of the bisector. Draw a line from the vertex to the point.

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Place the origin hole of the compass on the angle’s vertex, lining up the base line with one of the angle’s rays. Look at the degree mark where the other ray falls. This will tell you the degree measurement of the angle.  For example, you might measure an angle that is 160 degrees wide. Remember that protractors have two sets of numbers. To know which set of numbers to look at, think about the size of the angle. Obtuse angles are greater than 90 degrees, and acute angles are less than 90 degrees. An angle bisector divides an angle into two equal parts. So, to find where the angle bisector lays, divide the number of degrees in the angle by 2. For example, if the angle is 160 degrees, you would calculate 1602=80{\displaystyle {\frac {160}{2}}=80}. So, the angle bisector is at the 80-degree mark of the angle. Again, line up the origin hole with the angle’s vertex, and line up the base line with one of the rays. Find the halfway point using the protractor. Mark this point in the angle’s interior. For example, if the bisector of a 160-degree angle lies at the 80-degree point, you would find the 80-degree mark on the protractor and draw a point at this location in the angle’s interior. Use the straightedge of the protractor to connect the vertex to the halfway point of the angle. The line you draw is the angle’s bisector.


Measure the angle. Identify right angles. Identify acute angles. Identify obtuse angles. Identify straight angles. Identify a reflex angle. Get help.

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If the angle's measurement is not already given, you need to measure it  using a protractor. Angles are classified by their size, and so before you can classify the angle, you need to know its degree measurement. A right angle is created by two perpendicular lines or rays and is exactly 90 degrees. Right angles are often shown by a box in the corner of the angle. Acute angles are less than 90 degrees (that is, 0 to 89 degrees.) Many people remember the term for an acute angle, because these angles are small, and so you can say to yourself, “My, what a cute little angle!” There is no symbol that denotes an acute angle; the only way to know if an angle is acute is if you measure it, or if the measurement is given. For example, ∠DEF{\displaystyle \angle DEF} measures 40 degrees. Since 40 is less than 90, it is an acute angle. Obtuse angles are between 90 and 180 degrees (that is, 91 to 179 degrees). You can remember the term for an obtuse angle by linking the word “obtuse” with “obese,” since obtuse angles are larger than acute and right angles. There is no symbol that denotes an obtuse angle. For example, ∠IHJ{\displaystyle \angle IHJ} measures 125 degrees. Since 125 is between 90 and 180, it is an obtuse angle. A straight angle is a straight line. It measures exactly 180 degrees. Note that 180 is half of 360, which is the measurement of a complete turn, or circle. So a straight angle is an angle that is open exactly halfway. A reflex angle is an angle that is greater than 180 degrees. You need to be careful when identifying these types of angles, because they can look like acute or obtuse angles.  Think of an angle opening to a complete rotation. When it is open half way, it is a straight angle. If the angle opens beyond that, it is a reflex angle. Take, for example, a right angle. A right angle really makes two angles. One is the 90 degree angle inside the square corner. However, if you think of the angle opening the opposite way, you can see that it could also makes a 270 degree angle. If you are struggling...


Measure the area to be fenced. Locate and mark all buried utility lines. Acquire fence posts. Apply wood preservative to fence posts. Place a stake at the location for each corner fence post.

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Depending on the size and shape of the area in which you're installing fencing, you'll need to figure out how much fencing you'll need to enclose the given space.  If you just want a decorative fence, measure the length of the side of your yard you want to fence. If you want an enclosed fence, measure the total area and the length of each side. If you want a prefabricated fence, measure a single panel before buying. Mark off this distance along your planned fence line and stake the position of each fence panel. You'll end up setting fence posts at each stake, aligning them with the twine line and mounding soil around them above ground level. Call the local utilities companies to determine the locations of your lines if you aren't sure. Do not dig anything until the utility company representatives have identified and marked all the buried lines. You can also call 811 in some areas to get information about power lines. If you want to cut your own fence posts, you'll need wood that will hold up underground. This can be wood rated for direct ground contact, pressure-treated wood which has been injected with preservative, or wood coated with wood preservative at home (as described below). Gate posts and corner posts are usually larger than the rest. If the wood is not pressure-treated, paint the fence posts with copper naphthenate or another wood preservative to one-third of their height and allow them to dry thoroughly, following the manufacturer's instructions. This hinders rot from the contact with the damp soil and the underground sections of the posts. Treat all cut ends with preservative as well.  Alternatively, you can paint on just the below-ground portions in advance, to reduce mess during installation. Treat the rest with an airless sprayer once the fence is complete. Follow all safety instructions on the preservative label. Copper naphthenate can irritate skin, eyes, and lungs. Whatever kind of fence you're installing, it's a good idea to mark each corner of the fenced-in area with stakes. At each...


Measure the area where you will hang the curtains. Look for curtains made of fiberglass or vinyl. Go for blackout curtains to save money.

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Start by determining the size of the curtains. Measure the area where you plan to hang the curtains. Use a tape measure to get the length, width, and height of the area. Make sure you add a few inches on each side of the window for the curtains to fall.  Write down the measurements so you can refer to them when you go shopping for the curtains. Often, soundproofing curtains will come in standard sizes to fit the dimensions of a window. Soundproofing curtains are usually made of quilted fiberglass or rockwool to help block out sound. They may also be coated in vinyl, making them stiff and soundproof. In order to provide a barrier against noise, soundproof curtains should be at least 2 to 3 inches (5.08 to 7.62 cm) thick.  Because of the materials used, soundproof curtains are usually very heavy, weighing at least 15 to 20 lbs. (6.8 to 9.07 kg). Some companies allow you to custom make the soundproofing curtains. You can choose the color, material, and cut of the curtains. However, this will usually cost more money that standard soundproofing curtains. As an alternative to heavy duty soundproofing curtains, you can get heavy blackout curtains instead. Blackout curtains help to block out light and noise in a space. They are often made of thick material and are lighter than heavy duty soundproofing curtains. Blackout curtains are also often cheaper than heavy duty soundproofing curtains.


Measure the available area. Measure the distance from the couch to the TV. Decide if you're going to wall-mount. Consider buying bigger than you think.

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If you are putting an HDTV in an existing home theater cabinet, make sure you know the maximum size that will fit. Measure the TV enclosure diagonally, as this is how HDTVs are measured. For example, a 50" HDTV is 50" from corner to corner, but is less than that horizontally. As you get further away from the TV, the recommended size increases for best picture and viewing experience. While you will still be able to enjoy your TV from anywhere in the room, you can get the best experience by optimizing your screen placement and seating arrangements. When it comes to distance from the TV vs. size, THX recommends:  3.5–5 feet (1.1–1.5 m): 35" class 4–6 feet (1.2–1.8 m): 40" class 5–7.5 feet (1.5–2.3 m): 50" class 6–9 feet (1.8–2.7 m): 60" class Mounting larger TVs requires larger brackets, which can make the mounting more expensive. Wall-mounting TVs can be difficult, especially for larger models since you need to really ensure that the mount is securely fastened. While the "bigger is better" mentality may be a little outdated, one of the most common complaints from new TV buyers is that they should have purchased a bigger model. If you can afford it, consider bumping up to the next size class.


Measure the circuit breaker box’s size. Purchase a cabinet bigger than the circuit box. Trace the box’s measurements on the cabinet’s back. Cut out the back of the cabinet with a circular saw. Use a stud-finder to mark the wall studs. Trace hanging guidelines on the wall. Hang the cabinets with screws. Attach the cabinet’s hinges and door.

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Go around the box with a tape measure. Note the box’s length and width and keep these on hand as you look for an appropriate cabinet. Also measure the box's depth if your circuit breaker sticks out from the wall. The cabinet has to fit around the box, allowing you easy access in case you need to reach inside. Leave at least 1 in (2.5 cm) between the breaker and the cabinet’s outer edge, if possible. This way, you have a little space to work with when screwing the cabinet to the wall. Your cabinet also needs to have a cuttable back end so you can create an opening for the box. Use the measurements you took earlier to sketch the box’s outline on the back of the cabinet. You can do this with a pencil and a ruler. Make sure the lines are straight and accurate so you can remove enough of the backing. Lay the cabinet flat. Cut slowly around the lines you sketched earlier. Once the back is off, hold the cabinet up to the box. If the box is obstructed, cut off more backing as needed before hanging the cabinet. To protect yourself, wear form-fitting clothing. Put on safety goggles and headphones. A respirator mask is also useful. A stud-finder is a small sensor that detects the location of the wood beams in your wall. The circuit box is positioned near a stud, but your cabinet may span across a few of them. Mark the stud locations with a pencil. Measure the cabinet with a tape measure, then sketch out its positioning on the wall. Using a straightedge, draw a line where the top edge of the cabinet will hang. Pay attention to the cabinet’s width so you know which parts hang over the wall studs. The uppermost line is the most important measurement. This is the only one you need to draw unless you want to sketch the cabinet’s entire outline. Line up the top part of the cabinet with the line you sketched. Level the cabinet, using the line as a guide. Then, screw 2 1⁄2 in (6.4 cm) deck screws through the cabinet and its top and bottom mounting rails. These screws need to pass into the wall studs.  Leave about 3⁄4 in...


Measure the coffee beans. Grind the beans coarsely. Boil the water and then cool. Prepare your chosen press.

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To ensure that you wind up with the right amount of grounds for your coffee, you must carefully measure out the coffee beans. For 32 ounces (946 ml) of coffee, which is approximately 3 to 4 servings, use a measuring cup to measure a ½ cup (51 g) of beans. The standard size for most coffee presses is 32 ounces (946 ml), but you can make fewer servings if you prefer. For a single serving, measure 2 tablespoons (13 g) of beans. For 2 servings, measure a ¼ cup (26 g) of beans. Once you’ve measured the beans, place them in a coffee grinder. Use the coarsest setting to grind the beans down until they resemble bread crumbs.  For the best flavor, coffee beans should always be ground just before brewing (ideally within 15 minutes). Grinding before this will lead to stale, oxidized coffee. In most cases, the finer you grind the beans, the weaker the coffee will be. The coarser the grind, the stronger the coffee will be. Pay attention to the grinder setting that you use, so you can adjust it the next time if you aren’t happy with the taste of your coffee. To make 32 ounces (946 ml) of coffee, you’ll need to heat 4 cups (946 ml) of water. The water should be 195 degrees Fahrenheit (91 degrees Celsius), which is below boiling. Boil the water in an electric or stovetop kettle, but then remove the water from the heat and allow it to cool for approximately 30 seconds to 1 minute before making the coffee.  If you’re making a single serving of coffee, heat 1 cup (237 ml) of water. For two servings, heat 2 cups (474 ml) of water. You can use tap water to make your coffee. However, be sure to drink some first to ensure that it doesn’t have a bad taste. If it does taste odd, use filtered or bottled water instead. Examine your coffee press to ensure that the plunger device inside that pushes the grounds to the bottom of the pot to express their flavor into the hot water is working properly. Remove the lid and plunger, and place the ground coffee beans in the press.  You can find coffee presses that feature glass or plastic pots....


Measure the cut you need to make. Mark those measurements on the tile(s) you need to cut. Cut the tiles to size. Trim the tiles to fit around the screws.

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Depending on the size and placement of your tile up to the outlet, you’ll likely need to make either an L-shaped cut from the corners of four tiles or a U-shaped cut closer to the centers of two. By attaching the outlet faceplate, you can easily measure the distance between the next closest tile(s) for the length and width up to the faceplate. Since the cut tile needs the faceplate to overlap it, add roughly an additional 1/4” to the measurement—enough so that the tile reaches under the faceplate but not so much that the tile runs into the outlet or mounting screws. Since you obviously can’t fit the uncut tile into the space to trace the measurement, you’ll have to copy the measurement onto the tile before cutting. Remember—measure twice, cut once. Using either a tile cutter or wet tile saw, cut the tiles along the measurements you have marked. Do not attempt to cut the tiles using a snap tile cutter, as this tool cannot make partial cuts. If you haven’t had to cut any tile for the project yet, then you can read Cut Tile for steps how. After cutting the tiles to fit underneath the faceplate of the electrical outlet, you may still need to cut a small piece away to fit around the screws securing the outlet to the electrical box. Mark the area that needs to be trimmed with a pencil, and use your tile snips to clear away enough material to accommodate each screw.


Measure the depths of your window frames on all sides. Compare your measurements to the depths of available brackets. Measure the width of each window you'll be adding blinds to.

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If the windows in your bay have deep insets all the way around — for instance, if you have three picture windows — you may want your blinds to be recessed into the frames. However, roller blinds require fairly substantial brackets. Before considering recessed blinds, measure the depths from the front face of the window frame to the horizontal rails and vertical stiles — the thin strips of trim that hold the window glass in place.  Take several measurements for each window in your bay, and use the smallest measurement as your point of reference. These measurements are only a few inches/centimeters, so either a ruler or tape measure will work. You may need a ladder for taller bays, though. If your windows have a minimum 2.5 inch (roughly 6.5 cm) inset, for instance, compare the bracket depths for various roller blind manufacturers and models. If you can find a model you like that is no larger than 2.5 inches, you can consider using recessed roller blinds. You should be able to find this information on the packaging for the blinds, or when ordering online. Ask a sales associate or contact the manufacturer if necessary. Measure from the inset on the left side to the inset on the right side near the top of each window, where the bracket will be installed. Also measure near the middle and bottom of each window, in case your window frame is not perfectly square. Use the smallest width measurement you get for each window, then subtract ⅜ of an inch (1 cm) to be on the safe side.  Use these measurements when ordering custom roller blinds, or if you're looking for the closest fit amongst in-stock blinds. Recessed blinds are a good choice for either box (right-angle) or angled bay windows. They're easy to measure for and install, they are unobtrusive, and they don't conceal the window frames (if you'd like to showcase them).


Measure the dimensions of your room and doorways. Measure the dimensions of your furniture. Draw a scale outline of your living room on graph paper. Cut out paper models of your furniture to the same scale. Try out different arrangements on your paper map.

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Using a tape measure and notepad, record the length and width of the room, including the dimensions of each wall if the space is not rectangular. Measure the width of each doorway or other entrance to the room, as well as the distance each door extends into the room when open.  If you do not have a tape measure, use a ruler to measure your foot from heel to toe, then walk heel-to-toe along each wall, multiplying the number of foot lengths by the measurement of your foot. Measuring your ordinary stride length and walking normally will provide a quick but less accurate number. If you plan to use the wall space for items such as large paintings or a wall-mounted television, measure the height of the ceiling as well. You do not need to measure the length of a door that opens away from the room. If you are arranging existing furniture, measure the width, length, and height of each one, or the length of each side for non-rectangular furniture such as corner sofas. Record this information carefully so you don't get the height confused another dimension. If you plan to purchase new furniture, read Selecting New Furniture, then return to this section. Refer to your measurements to create a map of your living room. Use your measurements to make it proportional: if the room's measurement is 40 x 80 (in any unit), you could make your map 40 squares by 80 squares, or 20 x 40, or 10 x 20. Choose the largest scale that will fit on your graph paper.  Include a semicircle for each door that opens into the room, showing how much room it takes up as it opens. The easiest useful scale to remember is 1 graph paper square = 1 foot, or 1 square = 0.5 meters if you are used to the metric system. Write your scale (e.g. "1 square = 1 foot") outside your map on the same sheet of paper so you don't forget it. If your room has a wall that isn't at right angles, draw the two walls that connect to it, mark the two points where that angled wall hits the other two, then draw a straight line between them. If your room has a curved wall, you...


Measure the distance between the studs on the left and right side of your vent. Find a piece of plywood that’s at least as wide as the distance between the studs. Trace the circular body of your attic fan onto the center of the plywood. Use a reciprocating saw to cut out the circle you traced. Mount the attic fan onto the plywood so it’s centered over the hole. Nail the plywood into the studs on each side of the gable vent. Mount the fan’s thermostat to a nearby stud. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to wire the fan to your attic.

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Use a tape measure to get an accurate measurement. When you’re finished, write the number down somewhere — you’ll need it to find the right size piece of plywood for your attic fan to be installed on. You’re going to be mounting the plywood on the 2 studs, so it needs to be able to reach both of them. Look for plywood that's around 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) thick. For example, if the studs are 2 feet (0.61 m) apart, you’d need a piece of plywood that’s at least 2 feet (0.61 m) wide. Don’t include the fan’s mounting bracket in the circle you draw. Make sure the circle isn’t bigger than the actual fan or the fan won’t mount properly in the plywood. Check the box your attic fan came in to see if the manufacturer included a pre-cut circle that’s the same size as the fan’s body. If they did, you can trace that instead. A reciprocating saw is a handheld power saw with a blade that rapidly moves in and out of objects as it cuts them. To cut out the circle, drill a pilot hole in the center of the circle so you have a starting point for the saw. Then, carefully follow along the circle with the saw until it’s completely cut out from the plywood. Dispose of the plywood circle once it’s cut out. Lay the plywood on a flat surface and line the fan up over the hole you cut out. Drill the screws that came with the fan through the screw holes on the fan’s mounting bracket and into the plywood. When you’re finished, the fan should be securely mounted on the piece of plywood. When you position the plywood and fan over the vent, the back of the fan should be facing you and the front of the fan should be facing toward the vent. Center the fan over the vent before you nail the plywood to the studs. Once the fan is centered, nail the plywood into the studs to secure the fan over the vent. It might be helpful to have someone holding the fan while you hammer in the plywood. The thermostat is the box that’s connected to the fan by a wire. You’ll use the thermostat to control the fan. To mount the thermostat, insert the screws that came with...


Measure the elastic around your ankle. Make sure the elastic stays straight. Use the right size safety pin. Keep the safety pin secured. Finished.

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To determine how much elastic to insert into your pant leg, try measuring the elastic around your ankle or around the ankle of the person who will wear the pants. This will help to ensure that your elastic pant leg hem will be a good fit. Wrap the elastic around the ankle without stretching it and then cut it about an inch past the area where the two ends meet. Keep in mind that you do not want to make your elastic bands too tight or too loose. Aim for a comfortable fit. As you work the elastic through the hem, make sure that the elastic does not get twisted. This could affect the look of your finished project. If the elastic does get twisted, then try to untwist it. If you cannot get it untwisted, then you may need to start over and try again. Using a larger safety pin may make your work go faster, but you cannot always use a large safety pin. The size of your casing will determine what size safety pin you can use. If you have wide casing, then you can go with a larger safety pin. If you have a small casing, then go with a small safety pin. Make sure that the safety pin does not open while you are working it through the casing. If it does, try to fasten it again without snagging the fabric. If you cannot get it fastened again, then pull the elastic out and start over.


Measure the flow rate of your shower. Calculate your average water usage per shower. Improve the flow rate of your shower.

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You can do this simply by taking a one gallon bucket and gauging the length of time it takes for the bucket to fill. If your one gallon bucket fills in one minute, and you take a 15 minute shower, you will use an estimated 15 gallons of water (15 minutes x 1 gallon/minute = 15 gallons) The goal of a navy shower is to reduce the amount of water you use to about 10-11 gallons. To reach this goal you must first understand your average water consumption. Using the information you have gathered about the flow rate of your shower, determine the amount of water on average you use. You can do this by multiplying the amount of water used in a minute by the total minutes on average you shower. The typical flow rate of a shower is approximately four gallons per minute. If you have difficulty measuring your flow rate for some reason, use this number to predict the total gallons used. You can install a "flow controller" from a local hardware store to make your navy shower even more efficient. If conservation is your goal, this option is a worthy addition.


Measure the garage door opening before purchasing panels. Lay weather stripping over the bottom door panel. Place brackets over the panel's lower corners. Center the door panel in the garage doorway. Screw hinges to the top of the panel. Insert rollers into the hinges and brackets. Wrap the roller track around the wheels. Screw the track to the door frame.

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Use a tape measure to carefully record the length and width of the opening. Order this size so the panels will be made slightly smaller, fitting perfectly in the doorway. The panels will be about 1⁄4 in (6.4 mm) smaller than the opening. At a home improvement store, purchase some rubber weather stripping. Lay the panel flat on a workbench. The stripping is shaped like a tube, and you can fit the edge of the door panel in the tube's groove. Any of the panels can be used as the lower panel. Pick one, but remember that the one with the weather stripping is the one that needs to be placed first. Place 1 bracket on each side of the door over the weather stripping. When the brackets appear level with the door's edges, secure them to the panel with lag screws and a cordless screwdriver. Have a friend help you pick up and move the heavy panel to the doorway. Position the panel in the center of the doorway, then hold a level over the panel to make sure it's level. Use shims to adjust the panel as needed. Shims are small wood strips you can slide under the door panel to even out the sides. Purchase packs at a home improvement store. Start by installing a hinge in each of the panel's upper corners. Screw them in place with more lag screws. Center another hinge on this top edge and screw it in place. The rollers have metal rods that you slide into the holes on the hinges and brackets. Set 1 roller in both of the brackets as well as both side hinges. Pick a side to focus on first. Get the bottom piece of the track and work it onto the wheels. It'll have an indentation that the wheels fit into cleanly. Once you have the wheels in place, line up the track against the door frame. Make sure there's a little bit of space between the track and door frame so the door doesn't create friction later. Find the track's brackets, then use lag screws to secure the track directly to the door frame.


Measure the height, or "rise," of the space you want to make stairs. Subtract 6–7 feet (1.8–2.1 m) from the total rise to account for headroom. Divide the rise by 6 or 7 inches (15 or 18 cm) to find the total number of stairs. Divide the rise by the number of stairs to find the individual stair rise.

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Using a tape measure, make measurements of the total height of the space you want to make stairs from the bottom to the top. This is called the "rise" of your measurements and will determine how high your stairs will go. Headroom refers to the height between the top of the stair to the ceiling.  Add a headroom measurement of at least 6–7 feet (1.8–2.1 m) to prevent injuries.  Headroom heights usually aren't regulated by building codes, but your local building code may have recommendations for stair headroom, so be sure to check. For instance, if the total rise is 114 inches (290 cm), subtract 6 feet (1.8 m), which is 72 inches (180 cm), to account for the headroom. This will leave you with a rise of 42 inches (110 cm). For larger stairs, divide by 6 and for smaller stairs, divide by 7. The total you get is how many stairs your future staircase will have so you can plan accordingly.  If the rise is 42 inches (110 cm) (after subtracting 6–7 feet (1.8–2.1 m) for headroom) and you want larger stairs, for example, divide 42 by 6. Your staircase will have 7 stairs. If dividing the height to the second floor by your preferred height for the riser does not give you a whole number, round your calculation up if the decimal is larger than 0.5 or down if the decimal is smaller than 0.4. The stair rise refers to how high each individual step is. To determine the individual stair rise, divide the overall rise by the planned number of stairs.


Measure the length and width of your face. Consider your jawline. Observe your forehead and hairline. Use your previous observations to determine your face shape. Choose the right bangs for your face. Don’t forget about your hair!

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This will help you rule out some face shapes and help you get a general sense of your look. Use a mirror and measuring tape if you need help.  If your face is about equally as long as it is wide, you most likely fall into the round, square, or heart shaped category.   If your face is a bit longer than it is wide, you may fall into the oval, square, or heart shaped faces. Your face is not round.  Oval-shaped faces are considered an ideal face shape for all hair styles. Your jawline falls at the bottom of your face. It starts at the level of your lower ears and ends at your chin. Look carefully at the shape of this area, paying close attention to the perimeter.  A pointed jawline will make a V-shape. A round jawline is mostly circular. Look for more rounded edges. A square jawline looks angular. It forms very clear lines that define the bottom of the face. Determine if this area is wide or narrow. Use the other areas of your face for comparison. If your forehead is larger or more prominent than the other parts of your face, you have a wide forehead. On the other hand, your hairline may come inward and make your forehead look narrow in comparison to the other areas on your face. The length of your face, your jawline, and your forehead dictate whether your face is round, oval, square, or heart shaped. Not all faces are perfectly square or oval. Use your judgment to determine which shape most accurately describes your face.  A round face looks circular. The jawline is round and the forehead may be wide or narrow. The face is equally long and wide. A heart shaped face looks like a heart. The forehead is wide and the jawline is a pointed V-shape. An oval face is long and round. The length of the face is longer than the width. The jawline is round. An oblong face will be a bit longer than an oval and not as wide. A square face has even width from top to bottom. The forehead is wide and the jawline is square. A diamond shaped face is widest in the center at the cheekbones. The jawline is V-shaped and the forehead is...


Measure the length and width of your windows and doors. Multiply the lengths and widths for each door and window together. Add the square footages together to get the sum total. Subtract the total size of your windows and doors from the walls. Convert your final number back to feet or meters to make things easy.

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On a separate sheet of paper, list each door and window that you aren’t going to paint on separate rows. Use your measuring tape to calculate the length and width of each window and door. Write your measurements down for each door and window on the corresponding line on your paper. For each individual door and window, multiply the length and width together. Write these numbers down in a separate column. Use the same unit of measurement that you used to calculate the sizes of your walls.  This is the exact same process that you used to measure your walls. Don’t forget to convert your feet to inches or your meters to centimeters. Add each of the square footages together to get the total size of your windows and doors on the walls that you’re painting. Recount the total number of rows that you’re adding together and make sure that you’re not missing any of your doors or windows. Take the sum total of your doors and windows and subtract it from the square footage of all of your walls. For example, if the total square footage of your walls came out to be 20,009 square inches (129,090 cm2) and your doors and windows totaled 5,280 inches (13,400 cm), subtract 5,280 square inches (34,100 cm2) from 20,009 square inches (129,090 cm2) to get 14,729 square inches (95,030 cm2). Most cans of paint list their coverage area in square feet or meters, so make things easier on yourself by converting the inches or centimeters. For example, 14,729 inches (37,410 cm) would come out to 14,729 square inches (102.28 sq ft) or 37,411.66 square centimetres (3.741166 m2).  To convert inches to feet, divide the number of inches by twelve. To convert centimeters to meters, divide the number of centimeters by 100. Round any decimals or fractions up until you’ve got a whole number.


Measure the length for your tail. Cut your wire. Stuff your tail. Re-bend your tail.

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Your tail should go from your hip to the bottom of your knee. Cut a fabric strip this length by 4 inches wide. Fold the tail in half (lengthwise) and sew it shut. Also, sew the bottom shut up leave the top. Untwist and unfold your wire hanger. You want to cut it to be an extra 6 inches longer than the length of your tail. Wrap excess fabric (or cotton if you have it) around your wire. Be sure to begin by wrapping the tip so that the wire doesn’t poke through the end of the tail. Wrap it to the last 6 inches. Place your fabric wrapped wire into your tail. Bend the tail into the shape and curve that you wish. Bend the top part of your wire. You may want to use pliers. Bend it into a hook that will grasp onto your belt. Simply make a tight “J” shape for a good hold. The tighter the “J” shape, the more support your tail will have to stand up. Have a friend help you. Once the tail is attached to your belt, put the belt on. Have a friend shape the tail for you once again to ensure the perfect style.


Measure the length of sequin strip. Cut the strip ends. Pin the strip in place first for very long strips. Run hot glue along the strip. Apply gentle pressure. Let it dry before you add another strip.

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Use a rule to see how long your strip of sequins is. If you need a specific length, draw the placement onto the garment or fabric using tailor's chalk or an invisible marker. If you want to make a design from the sequin strip, draw it onto the fabric first. This will help you in position the strip accurately when you glue it down. Try to have extra length of sequin strip. This way, you can make sure you won't run out and need to add a second strip which could discontinue the design and look unprofessional. You can always trim away excess sequin strip when you're done. Take a sharp pair of fabric scissors and trim the ends of the strips. Take care not to cut yourself. Fabric scissors will keep you from bending the sequins out of shape. Keep your fingers near the end of the cut strip so that sequins don't fall off. If you ever need half a sequin, use sharp scissors to make a clean cut down the middle. Blunt scissors will bend the sequin rather than cut it. This can be useful to do if you're adding a strip that winds its way around a garment, such as a leotard or a dress. After you pin the strip down, you can glue it down in sections, flattening down as you go and removing pins. When joining strips, be sure to carefully align the ends so that they appear to keep running in a single strip. Using the hot glue gun, run a short line of glue along the back of the sequin strip. Work in small amounts so that it doesn't dry before you can place the sequin strip down. Working in small amounts also gives you more flexibility to move your sequins around.  To keep the strip from sliding, hold the ends in place for about 10 seconds or so before letting go. You may also choose to dab the fabric itself, running the glue across the place you’d like to attach the sequin strip. Use your fingers or tweezers to hold and work with the strip. Carefully press down on the line or design you've made on the garment or fabric. Press the sequin strip in place for about 15 seconds to give it a chance to set.  If glue oozes out from the...


Measure the length of your foot with a ruler or tape measure. Divide your foot length by 7. Determine if the heel height is right for you.

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Measure from the end of your foot where the heel is to the tip of your big toe. You will get the most accurate measurement if your foot is resting flat on a surface, so it is easier if you have someone to help you get the measurement. You can measure in inches or centimeters, depending on what unit of measurement you are most familiar with. However, you'll need to convert the measurement to centimeters to proceed with the calculation. For example, divide 24 centimeter (9.4 in) by 7 and you would get 3.4 centimeter (1.3 in) as your healthiest heel height. Dividing by 7 only works if you are using centimeters. If you typically measure in millimeters, you can convert your millimeter measurement to centimeters before dividing. Then, convert the answer in centimeters back into millimeters.  Unless your foot is larger than a size 11, you will typically get a measurement of 4 centimeter (1.6 in) or less when dividing your foot size by 7. Doctors say that you shouldn’t wear higher than 4 centimeter (1.6 in) on a daily basis. The answer you get by dividing your foot’s length by 7 is your supposed healthiest heel height, but only you or a doctor can determine what is best for you. If you feel comfortable wearing a slightly higher heel, do so! Or, if even a 1 inch (2.5 cm) heel is uncomfortable for you, stick to flats. Typically, the larger your foot size is, the higher the heel you can safely wear.


Measure the length of your window frame. Add 4 in (10 cm) if you are installing a curtain rod. Measure the width of your window frame. Multiply your frame’s width by 2.5. Measure the depth of the frame if you are installing a new rod.

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Hook a tape measure on a top corner of your window frame and pull it down to the bottom edge of the frame. Then do the same on the other side and in the middle, in case your window is not perfectly square.  If you already have a curtain rod, you only need to measure from the curtain rod to where you want the curtains to end. If you do find that your window is a different length on 1 side, keep the longest measurement. Most curtain rods are hung at least 4 inches (10 cm) above the top of the window frame. You may want to hang yours even higher to give the illusion of height to your windows and make the room seem taller.  Don’t add more than 8 inches (20 cm) to the length, as hanging curtains this high can look awkward.  You may also want to add 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) to your length to make your curtains hang down further below the window frame, which will block more light. Take a tape measure and find the width of the top, middle, and bottom of your frame. If the measurements are different, use the widest one. If you are installing a new curtain rod, you should plan to buy one that is at least 2 to 6 inches (5.1 to 15.2 cm) longer than the width of your frame. To make the blackout curtains more effective, and create a more attractive look, you will want your curtains to have plenty of depth. In order to have enough material for the curtains to fold over themselves several times, they should be at least 2.5 times as wide as your frame. For instance, if your frame is 3 ft (0.91 m) wide, you will want curtains that are 7.5 ft (2.3 m) wide. To buy a curtain rod that extends far enough out from your window frame, you will need to know the depth of the frame. Use a tape measure or ruler to measure the distance from the wall to the point where your frame extends the farthest.


Measure the new hem and remove the old hem. Fold and press the raw edge. Fold and press the remaining excess. Attach a blind hem foot to your machine. Fold the hem under as you place it on the machine. Sew along the folded edge. Try on the dress.

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The intended wearer should put the dress on while a second person measures how much of the fabric needs to be hemmed up from the bottom. Use pins to hold the newly measured hem in place, and have the dress wearing remove the dress. When the dress is taken off, cut off the excess fabric using sharp sewing shears. Leave 1 inch (2.5 cm) of excess material from the new, intended hem.  The wearer should try the dress on while wearing her prom shoes. Heel height will make a difference when determining how low the hem should go. You can simply measure the length of the hem with measuring tape and cut away from there, but if you want a more even hemline, you should mark the desired hem all the way around using straight sewing pins or a fabric pencil. Fold the raw edge at the bottom of the dress up, and inward, hiding it along the inside of the dress skirt. Say you have about 2 inches of seam allowance. You should fold up roughly 3/4 inch (2 cm) of the raw edge of the fabric. Use a hot iron to press the new crease into place.  You may need to turn the skirt of the dress inside out in order to fold and press evenly. At this point, you should not put any pins in place. Fold up the remaining 1¼ inch (3.2 cm) of excess material in the same direction as your original fold. Press the folded edge in place with a hot iron.  The raw edge you previously folded should now be hidden along the inside of the second folded edge. Once again, make sure that the folded material will be hidden along the inside of the dress. It is recommended that you pin the new hem in place at this point. Place the pins along the hem so that the tops of the pins face toward the body of the dress and away from the edge of the hem. Snap or screw on the blind hem foot as required for your sewing machine. This special presser foot is necessary to complete the hem on your machine. Note that your sewing machine must also be set to make a blind hem stitch. Again, refer to your machine's instructions to determine how to do this. Take the dress to the machine...


Measure the new trim against the door. Put on ear and eye protection before sawing. Cut the trim pieces with a miter saw. Cut the side trim to length. Cut the top trim to the appropriate size.

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First, purchase some trim from the home improvement store. Most trim comes in 8 or 10 ft (2.4 or 3.0 m) sections. Use your old trim as a sizing guide or hold the new trim against the door frame. Mark the measurements with a pencil so you know how to size the trim.  You can always measure out the space around the door with a tape measure if the other options aren’t possible. Measure out the length and width of the trim space on all sides of the door to find out how much trim you need. Narrower trim can be a good choice for simplicity and appearance, but make sure you leave enough material to cover the gap between the door frame and wall. Wider trim stands out more, but it’ll cover more of the wall. Make sure you have enough space for it. Cover your eyes with a pair of polycarbonate safety glasses. Miter saws are loud, so also put on a pair of earmuffs or foam earplugs. Avoid putting on gloves or any other loose clothing that could get caught in the saw. Set the miter saw to cut at an angle of exactly 45°. Line up the trim and cut from the inside edge diagonally upwards to the outside edge. Cut a large piece of trim into the top piece and one of the sides.  It’s okay to leave the trim a little long at first. You can adjust this as needed later. It’s helpful to practice using the miter saw on scrap wood first. You are usually able to adjust the saw more than you expect to get a better-fitting joint. Line up the side pieces of trim against the door. If the trim is long, measure up from the bottom to mark how much length needs to be removed. Cut the bottoms of the side trim pieces evenly so they match and fit on the door frame. Hold the header against the 2 side pieces. This piece has miter joints on both sides, which should fit snugly against the rest of the trim. If you have to reduce the header, make sure the miter is set at a 45° angle. Redo the cut until the header fits in place.


Measure the object you’ll be scaling. Choose a ratio for your scaled drawing. Convert the actual measurements with the ratio. Start drawing the perimeter with a straight segment when possible. Refer to the original drawing frequently. Use a piece of string to check the scaled lengths of irregular images. Add details after finishing the perimeter.

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For images that are irregularly shaped, measuring with a ruler or tape measure can be difficult. In these cases, outline the perimeter with a piece of string, then measure the length of the string to find the perimeter.  For rough scaling of simple 2-D objects, you can probably get by with only measuring the width and height of the object.  It’ll be helpful when you start drawing the scaled image if the perimeter is broken up into segments, like the top, bottom, and sides.  You may be able to break up the perimeter into small, regular shapes, like squares and triangles. These segments can be added together to find the perimeter. Common ratios include 1:10, 1:100, 2:1, and 4:1. When the first number is smaller than the second, it represents scaling down (reducing). When the first is larger than the second, it represents scaling up (enlarging).  When scaling down images that are especially large, expect the second number in the ratio to also be large. A 1:5000 ratio might be used to fit a building-sized object on a single sheet of paper. Enlarge small images by increasing the first number of your ratio in small increments. A 2:1 ratio will be double the size of the original, a 4:1 ratio will be quadruple, and so on. When scaling down, divide the original measurements by the second number in your ratio. When scaling up, multiply the original measurements the first number.  Some ratios may be irregular, like 5:7. All this means is that for every 5 units of distance in the scaled drawing, you’ll have 7 units of distance in the original.  For example, if scaling down with a 1:2 ratio, a length of 4 inches (10 cm) would become 2 inches (5.1 cm) because 4 ÷ 2 = 2. When scaling up with a 2:1 ratio, a length of 4 inches (10 cm) would become 8 inches (20 cm) because 4 x 2 = 8. A straight segment will be easier to check against your converted length. This will also give you a better feel for how much the scaled image has changed from the original.  If your drawing doesn't have a suitable straight segment, one that is...


Measure the picture you want to frame. Measure the frame. Choose a size for the window mat.

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Use the ruler to measure the height and width of the picture you'll be cutting the mat to fit. Both of the mats you cut should match the dimension of the picture exactly; the inner area of the second (window frame) mat will need to be cut at least a half inch smaller than the picture itself to hold it in place. Write down the picture's dimensions and set it aside for now. During this step you can decide how wide you want to cut your window mat to go on top of the picture. If only a portion of the picture needs to be visible, a wider mat will fill in the non-focal area around the edges and let you center the picture exactly where you want it. If you have a frame picked out that you want to use, remove the glass or plastic from the front and extract the backing board. The backing board is what you will be using for reference as the mats will be measured and cut to fit the inner part of the frame where the picture sits. Copy down the dimensions of the frame, making sure to differentiate what the various measurements are for. Most frames you buy will already have their specifications listed. Disregard this measurement and take your own. Since it's imperative that the mat you cut be able to fit the frame, it's better not to take chances with sizing. With the dimensions of the picture or artwork in mind, decide what size will work best for cutting the window mat. The window mat will be placed around the edges of the front side of the picture and will usually overlap the picture slightly, so settle on a window mat size that doesn't obscure too much of the picture. On the back of the second mat board, trace the measurements of the picture where you plan to cut the window frame. For most small-to-medium sized pictures, a window mat with a width of around .5"—1.5" will provide a nice frame for the picture without covering too much of it.


Measure the quality of your relationships. Reflect on your conflict resolution skills. Think about what you look for in a romantic relationship. Imagine your perfect social gathering. Consider how you relate to children.

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Friendships take more effort to maintain as you age. You may find your social networks becoming wider, yet you may not have as many close, tight-knit relationships.  You may have a few friends you’ve known all your life as well as some dedicated new friends from different points in your life. Look at how long your current relationships have lasted — both romantic and non-romantic.  Have you been able to maintain quality relationships for a long time? Are you able to get through difficult periods and keep your friends around? Have you had long-term, stable romantic partnerships? If you said yes to any of these questions, you may be managing grown-up relationships. Even the most mature adults get into arguments. How you handle the argument is more telling than what started it. Grown-ups know how to respect each other’s differences. They remain calm during tense situations. They can agree to disagree or compromise to find a solution. They also know when to apologize and forgive without holding grudges. Keep in mind that there is a difference between being mature and passive. Just because you never fight back does not necessarily mean that you have grown up. When you're young and immature, it's all about the chemistry and fireworks. As you grow older, you may look for a partner who is as much compatible as they are exciting. Ask yourself the following questions. If you answer yes, you may be involved in a mature relationship.  Do you and your partner work through your problems? Do you apologize to one another? Can you forgive each other during arguments? Do you and your partner make compromises? Do you accommodate their needs? Do they accommodate yours? Do you and your partner respect each other’s boundaries? Are you both able to have separate social lives, hobbies, interests, and jobs without becoming jealous or controlling? Where does it take place? How many people are there? What are you doing? When you were younger, you may have wanted loud, crowded parties at clubs or bars. As you grow older, you may find...


Measure the radius of the circle at the bottom of the cylinder. Find the area of the circle at the bottom of the cylinder. Calculate the total volume of a cylinder tank. Identify a circular sector and segment. Determine the area of your sector. Get the area of the triangle. Subtract the area of the triangle from the area of the sector. Multiply the area of your segment by the height of your cylinder. Determine the fill height.

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The region enclosed by the circle at the bottom of the cylinder is your bottom base surface (B). A radius is any line segment that runs from a circle’s center to its perimeter. To find the radius, simply measure from the mid-point of the cylinder’s bottom to the outside of the circle. A diameter is any straight line segment that passes through the center of the circle and has endpoints on the circle’s perimeter. For any circle, the diameter will be twice the radius. Therefore, you can also find the radius of the circle at the bottom of the cylinder by measuring the complete radius and dividing that number in half. Once you know the radius of your bottom base surface (B), you can calculate the area. To do so, use the formula B = πr2, using your radius as r and 3.14159 for π, which is a mathematical constant. You can now determine the total volume of the tank by multiplying the area by the length of the tank. The full formula for total volume of the tank is Vtank = πr2h. If you imagine a circle cut into slices, like a pizza, each slice is a sector. If a chord (a line segment that joins two points on a curve) cuts through that sector, it divides the sector into two parts: a triangle and a segment. This segment is important because to calculate the filled volume of your cylinder, you’ll have to find the area of a segment (by finding the area of the whole sector and subtracting the area of the triangle) and multiply it by the length of the cylinder. The sector is a fractional portion of the area of the whole circle. To find its area, use the formula shown above. Find the area of the triangle that was formed by the chord that cut through the sector. Use the formula shown above. Now that you have both the area of your sector and the area of your triangle, a subtraction will yield the area of your segment, D. When you multiply the area of your segment by the height, the product is the filled volume of your tank. The relevant formulas are shown above. Your final step depends on if the height, d, is greater than or...


Measure the rice.

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Measure out the amount of rice you wish to cook, usually 1 cup (225 g). Rinse the rice thoroughly in cold water, then soak for 45 minutes. This will help to soften the rice.


Measure the room to be carpeted. Bring any drape or paint samples to the carpet dealer for comparison. Prepare for the dealer's questions. Select a carpet that will stand up to the concrete. Decide on a style of carpet.

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Take these measurements to your carpet dealer to make sure you get an ample amount of carpet for your job. Be sure to tell them that  you are carpeting over concrete since that requires different carpet material as well as slightly different tools than carpeting over wooden surfaces. If you've already painted the walls or planned for any other decorating in the room, take in some samples of the colors so you can make an informed choice at the store. Typically, you'll be asked some basic questions about the room and your intended use for the room. These questions are designed to help you pick the most appropriate carpet, and are good questions to ask yourself anyway. It helps to give some thought beforehand so you don't have to make a hasty decision. A dealer may ask:  Are there a lot of windows in the room? Will there be heavy or light traffic in the room? Do you have kids or pets? Is there direct access from outside? How large is the room? Dealers will also typically try to sell you on Stainmaster, Teflon, and Anti-Static technology at various levels of expense to you. Remember, the decision's up to you. Get something that'll serve your purpose, but don't get pushed into expensive options you don't want. Make sure the entire carpet is constructed of synthetic products only. Some carpet is backed with jute, which is too absorbent to use on concrete. If you're not going to install your carpet on a subfloor, you'll need to make sure that you're picking a kind of fiber that will stand up to concrete's tendency to collect moisture. Consider carpet made from olefin face fiber. A chemical-resistant fiber that will stand up to aggressive cleaning solutions like bleach, this might not be the softest or most attractive carpet, but it will last. You can choose between patterned or solid carpet, as well as a light or dark color. You can also choose tight or loose fiber loops and pick between a solid or mesh subsurface. Typically, the carpet rule of thumb is that light carpet can seem to create more space in a smaller...


Measure the size of the bee. Use a magnifying glass to carefully inspect the eyes of the bee. Make note of where you found the bee in relation to the location of the nest.

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Male honey bees tend to be around 2 centimetres (0.79 in) long, which is slightly larger than female honey bees, which are normally 1.25 centimetres (0.49 in). The small size of the female bees, which are also known as worker bees, allow them to move quickly from flower to flower to pollinate and collect food for the nest.  Males tend to have bodies that are more rounded than females, making them less agile while in flight. The largest honey bee in the colony is the female queen bee, but it will only emerge from the nest when it's time to swarm. It's very unlikely that you will spot a queen bee outside of the nest! Female honey bees have smaller eyes on either side of their head that are proportional to their bodies. Male bees have very large eyes that make it easier for them to spot the queen as she is moving about.  The female bee's small, separated eyes help to locate flowers and plants to pollinate while in flight. The male bee's eyes will appear to touch at the top of the head, giving them a circular shape. Most honey bees seen pollinating are female worker bees. The large male, or drone, bees can normally be found in the area near the nest. Male bees won't venture too far from the location of the nest and the queen bee. Male bees will sometimes fly away from the nest in large groups to mate with other queens.


Measure the size of your bag. Obtain two L-brackets  Tuck the board inside the bag. Find something sharp (like a scissor or ice pick) and poke the corners. Obtain two set of U-bolts. Remove the board from the bag. Drill the holes for mounting. Insert the wooden board once more. Prepare the rear rack. Insert the U-bolt to the bag, passing through wooden board. Secure the saddlebag to the rack by tightening the nut of the U-bolt. Add a foam board to the bag for insulation, to dampen the cargo and hide the wood frame. Tuck the bag's straps in and you're ready to go. Now you're done! Looks cool on your bike!

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Make sure to measure the length and width of the bag, as well as the base of the bag.  Transfer these measurements to a 1/4-inch plywood.     Cut the wood to the size of your bag.     You should now have two wood panels, one for the back of the bag and the other for the bottom of the bag.    Attach the back and bottom of the saddlebag using the L-brackets.     Add wood glue for more strength and allow to dry. You now have a board for your saddlebag.     The holes should be at least 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) away from the corners.  Get a large screwdriver to make the holes bigger.     These 4 holes will be use to join the wooden board to your bag.    They should be about 1⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) in size, depending on the size of the frame of your bike. For a test fit, mount the U-bolts on the bike rear rack.   Get the measurements of the U-bolt from the rack and apply this to the saddlebag. Poke the holes for the U-bolts.     Using the markings the board got from the sharp object you used to poke the bag as a guide.  You should have 4 holes for you to attach the board to the saddlebag.     Drill another set of holes for the U-bolts so you can mount the saddlebag to the bike rear rack.    Screw 4 ordinary ¼-20 nuts on to the holes you made accordingly. Screw the nuts on the 4 corners of the bag, securing together the bag and wooden board.    Get your U-bolt and place them on the rack.  It is better you place the saddlebag on you left side of the bike so it won't interfere with any moving part of the bike, like the sprocket. Insert the U-bolt from the bike rack to the fabric of the bag.       Cleaning is easy- simply loosen the nuts of the U-bolts. You can even detach the bag and carry it when off your bike.    This saddlebag can carry approximately 4 kilos of cargo. Enjoy your own DIY bicycle pannier.


Measure the size of your guinea pig cage. Prevent your pups from escaping. Position the inverted plastic water bottle inside the cage. Place the cage in a quiet area of your house.

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Pups will reach adult size very quickly, so it is recommended to have your pups in a cage that is an adequate size for an adult guinea pig. The cage should be at least 7.5 square feet. If you purchased pups from the pet store, make sure that the cage is large enough before you leave the store.  Even though the cage may seem a bit big for your pups, they will appreciate the extra space they will have to run and explore their environment. If you have a mother guinea pig in a cage with her babies, the cage should be large enough (minimum of 8 square feet) to accommodate all of them through the nursing stage.  If your current cage is not large enough, visit your local pet store for assistance in selecting the right size cage. The majority of guinea pig cages are built for adult guinea pigs. For example, there is usually one-inch spacing between the bars on a guinea pig cage. Your pups could possibly be small enough to squeeze through this spacing. To prevent them from doing this, consider purchasing a cage that has a deeper pan at the bottom. The deeper pan would be more difficult for your pups to climb out of. As an alternative to buying a new cage, you can purchase grids with smaller spacing at your local pet store. Secure the grids on the outside of the cage with cable ties. The water bottle should be positioned low enough so that your pups can comfortably reach and sip from the bottle's sipper tube. You may need to reposition the water bottle several times before it's at just the right height for them. These water bottles can be purchased at your local pet store. The lowered water bottle may too low for your pups' mom. If you see that she is struggling to sip from the water bottle, it may be helpful to place a second water bottle at a higher height for her. This is important whether you are bringing home pups or caring for the ones that your female guinea pig has given birth to. Guinea pigs can be very sensitive to noise, so your pups will need to stay in a quiet area during their first few weeks of life. ...


Measure the space required for the countertops. Cut the countertops to size. Trace the sink and range space on the countertop. Cut out the sink or range space. File down the cuts until they’re smooth. Check to see that the countertops fit over the cabinets. Measure and cut build-up strips out of wood. Lay the build-up strips on top of the cabinets. Fasten the strips in place with screws. Fit the countertop pieces together. Bolt the countertop pieces together.

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Run a tape measure along the space where the countertop will rest. If you have your old countertops on hand, they may serve as a useful guide. Note the dimensions the countertops need to be. When building around a corner in your room, plan on connecting 2 countertops cut diagonally. Adjust your measurements to fit these pieces. Put on safety goggles and a dust mask first to protect yourself from flying shards and material particles. For synthetic countertops like laminate, use a fine-tooth handsaw or jigsaw to fashion the countertops. Placing masking tape over the cutting lines can reduce splintering. To save time, order the countertops pre-cut. Measure your space before placing the order. You may still need to make some cuts to fit the countertops once you have them. You may want to set the countertop in place first to get a better idea of where these features need to go. Flip the sink or range over, then use a pencil to trace around their perimeter. Trace a second outline 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) inside the first one on all sides.  Your sink or range may have come with a template to be used when sketching the outline. If it doesn’t, use posterboard or cardboard to trace your own sink or range template. The trace lines can be hard to see against dark countertops. Place masking tape first and trace over it to make the lines more visible. Get your saw and put on your safety gear again. The part you want to cut is the second, smaller outline. Drill holes large enough to fit your saw blade in each corner of your countertop. Cut all the way around the outline and clear away the excess material. A metal file or sander works well. Go across each cut, filing in one direction only. Be sure to get the inside of the countertop where you cut the space for the sink or range. When the edges feel smooth and safe to the touch, you’re ready to move on. Place the countertops on the wooden supports or measure their front edges. If they’re not high enough, the front will overhang and block the cabinet doors. You’ll need to add build-up...


Measure the temperature T. Look up or measure wind speed, V. Enter these values into the formula. Adjust for sunshine. Understand wind chill.

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Use a thermometer or look up your location's current outdoor temperature on a weather prediction website. You can measure this in degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius, but read the next step carefully so you know which unit to use for wind speed. Wind chill is undefined for temperatures above 50ºF (10ºC). If the temperature is higher, wind doesn't have much effect on apparent temperature. You can find wind speed estimates for your area on most weather prediction websites, or by searching for "wind speed + (the name of your town)" online. If you have an anemometer or make one using the instructions below, you can measure the wind speed yourself. If your temperature measurement used ºF, use the wind speed measurement in miles per hour (mph). If you used ºC, use kilometers per hour (km/h) instead. If necessary, use this website to convert from knots to km/h.  If you're using an official wind speed measurement taken at 33 ft (10 m), multiply it by 0.75 to get a rough estimate of the wind speed at 5 ft (1.5 m), a typical height for a human face.  Wind below 3 mph (4.8 km/h) does not have a significant wind chill effect. There have been several wind chill formulas over the years and in different regions, but we'll use the one currently used by the UK, US, and Canada, created by an international team of researchers. Plug in your numbers to the formula below, replacing T with the temperature and V with the wind speed:  If using ºF and mph: Wind chill temperature = 35.74 + 0.6215T - 35.75V0.16 + 0.4275TV0.16  If using ºC and km/h: Wind chill temperature = 13.12 + 0.6215T - 11.37V0.16 + 0.3965TV0.16 Bright sunshine can raise the apparent temperature by as much as +10 to +18ºF (+5.6 to +10ºC). There's no official formula to measure this effect, but be aware that sunlight will make the air seem warmer than the wind chill formula suggests. Wind chill is an invented concept that describes how wind increases heat loss on exposed skin. In extreme conditions, this can be a major factor in how soon frostbite sets in. At a wind chill...


Measure the water. Add the coffee and sugar. Mix and heat the coffee. Serve in the demitasse.

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The traditional way to measure water for Greek coffee is by using a demitasse cup to measure. Fill the demitasse with water, and then pour that water into the briki. By using the same cup you'll be serving coffee in, measuring with the demitasse ensures that you make exactly the right amount of coffee. For each cup of coffee you're making, measure in one heaping teaspoon of Greek coffee grounds. Unlike Turkish coffee, you don’t add spices like cardamom to Greek coffee, but you can add sugar if you like. Depending on the level of sweetness you want, add:  No sugar for plain, or sketos ½ teaspoon (2.5 g) sugar for half-sweet, or meoligi 1 teaspoon (5 g) of sugar for medium, or metrios 2 teaspoons (10 g) of sugar for sweet, or glykys Swirl the coffee, sugar, and water together to combine all the ingredients in the briki. Turn the gas to medium and transfer the briki to the heat.  As the coffee heats up, it will begin to bubble and foam as it simmers. Do not stir, swirl, or otherwise disturb the coffee at this point, or you will destroy the foam, which is an integral part of Greek coffee. Don’t let the coffee boil over either, or you'll lose the foam. When the coffee nears the rim of the briki, remove it from the heat. When you take the coffee off the flame, pour it immediately into the demitasse, along with the foam and grounds. Be gentle so you don’t disturb the foam. If you're making more than one coffee, make sure you distribute the foam evenly among all the cups. Use a spoon to transfer foam from one cup to another if necessary.


Measure the width and length of your crib. Choose a mattress designed for the crib size. Check the thickness of the mattress.

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You’ll need to measure your crib to determine if a standard crib mattress will fit or if you will need a smaller or larger mattress. Though the size of both cribs and crib mattresses are regulated by the federal government, slight variations in each means that not every mattress will fit every crib. Standard crib mattresses are required to be a minimum of 27.25 inches (69.2 cm) by 51.25 inches (129.5 cm). It’s essential that the crib mattress fits snugly. There shouldn’t be any space between the mattress and the sides of the crib, as this could pose an entrapment or suffocation hazard to your baby.  If the mattress is too small, a baby could get their limbs or head stuck between the edge of the mattress and the crib rails. If the mattress is too large, it won’t fit properly in the crib and a baby could suffocate if their airway is restricted due to the mattress bowing in the middle rather than lying flat. Mattresses that are too thick pose a suffocation risk to infants as they can sink into the soft surface. A crib mattress should not be thicker than 6 inches (15.2 cm).