Curl your lashes. Wear colors that make your eyes pop. Keep your eyebrows on point. Use eyedrops if your eyes are bloodshot or tired-looking. Set off eyes with your hair color.

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Even if you are wearing makeup, most makeup artists agree curling your lashes is a must, because it makes your eyes look larger and more awake. Use an eyelash curler to first curl along the very base of your lashes (squeezing for 10 seconds), then the middle of your lashes and the ends. This will give your lashes a natural curl instead of just bending them up at one harsh angle. If an eyelash curler is out of the question, there are other ways to make your lashes stand out.  Blow on the ends of your fingertips to warm them up, then gently press your lashes up. Hold for ten seconds, and repeat if necessary.  Heat a spoon in a mug of warm water, then hold the edge of the spoon along the root of your eyelashes. The curved side of the spoon (the side that holds soup or cereal) should be facing out, away from you. Use your fingers to gently push your lashes up and against the edge of the spoon.  Use a clean toothbrush to brush your lashes upward. Run the bristles under hot water to warm up the brush, wiping off excess moisture on a towel. Then brush the bristles up through your lashes, a starting near the root, and holding at the tips for ten seconds. Figure out what shades really highlight your eye color and buy shirts and scarves in those colors. Think about what color you are wearing when people compliment your eyes, or try holding up a bunch of different colored fabrics to your eyes and have a friend tell you which ones look best.  Blue eyes should start out with black and different shades of blue (darker blues will make your eyes look a deeper blue, lighter blues will lighten), purple, pinks, and light green.  Brown eyes should start with oranges and red (or combinations like peach), shades of light brown, bold blues, lavender, gold, and moss green.  Green eyes should try any shade of purple or green, black, navy, pale yellow, and deep browns.  Hazel eyes should try black, navy, and other dark neutrals, orange, burgundy, and lavender. Your eyebrows frame your face and bring balance to your features. Stick...


Curl your palm inward to weaken your opponent’s wrist. Make a quick move to surprise a stronger opponent. Let your opponent tire themself out if you feel like you're losing. Perform a “top roll” once your strong opponent has worn themself out. Use the “hook” if you and your opponent are matched in strength. Force your opponent's hand down to the tabletop to win the match.

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Once the wrestling match begins, focus on weakening your opponent’s wrist. Do this by slowly orienting your palm toward your face so that your wrist turns in toward your shoulder. This will bend the other person's wrist forward and will make your grip stronger as they struggle to keep their grip. If you don’t have the physical strength to do this, just keep your wrist straight. If you know that your opponent is stronger than you are, make a quick surprise move as soon as the match starts. Curl your palm inward and try to force your opponent's arm down before they can assert their strength. This may help you overcome their power.  Keep in mind that you might tire yourself out quickly if you aren't successful. Have a strategy! In arm wrestling, hand positioning and technique are more important than strength. Sometimes the other person is just too strong for you to properly use your technique. If this happens, drop your wrist back to make it harder for them to push your arm down. Then, hold your position until they tire out. When they appear to be struggling, push their arm down. Pretend like you feel confident that you're going to win. Your opponent doesn't know that you feel like you're losing, and looking confident may get them to give up. As your opponent tires, pull your hand closer to your body to weaken your opponent’s arm and decrease their leverage. Slide your hand up so the center of your palm grips the top of your opponent’s hand. Then, as you push their hand down to the tabletop, pull the opponent's wrist back. Their palm should rotate towards the ceiling. When performing a “top roll,” you can also pull your body back to draw out your opponent’s arm even more. To “hook,” curl your wrist inwards. This will extend your opponent's arm, but will require you to put a lot of bicep power in. Lean in and position your body (especially the shoulder) over your arm and keep your body and arm close together. Drag your opponent towards you as you pull their arm down.  This technique is useful if you're as strong...


Customize your own Harry Potter mug. Make your own potion bottles. Make a Harry Potter Deathly Hallows t-shirt. Make an owl out of paper plates.

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If you have a favorite line from the Harry Potter books, you can easily use it to inspire your own Harry Potter themed mug. For this project, you will need a white mug, and a few Sharpies in varying colors.  Using a Sharpie, write your favorite quote from the books on the mug. Let the mug dry overnight before baking it for 30 minute at 350 degrees. Place the mug in the oven before it heats up and allow it to cool down in the oven before removing. Skip this step and you may find cracks in the mug. Possible quotes for your mug include: “I solemnly swear I am up to no good,” “Always” and “Felix Felicis.” Every year, Harry goes to Diagon Alley to stock up on potion supplies and you can make your own potion bottles in just a few easy steps. For this project, you will need miniature bottles, cardstock paper, decoupage glue, a magic marker and a rubber band.  Tear the cardstock into small pieces. On each piece, write a potion ingredient in magic marker (ideas include frog, dragon’s blood, tears, etc). Place a small amount of decoupage glue on the back of each cardstock label, then affix the labels to the bottles. Wrap a rubber band around the labeled bottle to help the glue set. Allow the bottles to dry, then play with them or display them as you wish. If you have a white t-shirt, some black paint and a paintbrush, you can create your own Harry Potter t-shirt featuring the Deathly Hallows.  Place a piece of cardboard in between the layers of the t-shirt. This will keep the paint from seeping through to the back. Paint the outline of a triangle on the t-shirt. The triangle should take up most of the space on the tee. If the triangle is not dark enough, go over it again with another coat of paint. Paint a line from the top of the triangle to the bottom of the triangle. Darken the line as needed. Draw a circle inside the triangle to complete the image of the Deathly Hallows. Darken the circle as needed. Allow the t-shirt to dry before wearing. If you prefer not to freehand the image, you can also look for a template...


Cut 2 1 1⁄2 centimetres (0.59 in) wide strips out of paper. Cut another set of strips out of a contrasting color. Glue 2 strips of paper together to create a right angle. Find a thick marker about the width of your finger. Glue 1 of the L-shapes to the end of the marker to make an arrow shape. Glue the second set of strips to the other side of the marker.

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Get some construction paper or colored printer paper that's about 11 to 12 inches (28 to 30 cm) long. Orient the paper landscape style, then use a pencil and a ruler to draw a set of 1 1⁄2 centimetres (0.59 in) wide strips. Cut the paper using a paper slicer or a craft blade and a metal straight edge.  You can cut the paper using scissors, but the edges may end up crooked. If the paper is longer than 11 to 12 inches (28 to 30 cm), cut it shorter. Get another sheet of colored, 11 to 12 in (28 to 30 cm) long printer or construction paper. Draw 2 more 1 1⁄2 centimetres (0.59 in) strips, then cut them out with a paper slicer or a craft blade and a metal straight edge. When you are done, you should have 4 strips of paper, 2 of each color. Take 1 strip of each color and overlap the ends to create a right angle or L-shape. Glue the ends with hot glue, liquid school glue, or a glue stick. Let the paper dry before moving on.  Do this step twice, once for each set of strips. Make sure that you are gluing 2 different colors together. For example, if you have 2 yellow and 2 orange strips, glue the yellow and orange strips together. A permanent marker or a highlighter could work well for this. You can also use a dowel or a rod of some sort. Do not use a skinny ballpoint pen or a pencil, however; or the finger trap will end up too thin! Make a drop of hot glue near the end of the marker. Take 1 of your glued-together strips, and place the point into the glue. The strips and the marker should look like an arrow when you are done.  The hot glue should be on the side of the marker, right against the bottom edge. Don't put it at the very tip. The hot glue will keep the paper in place as you weave it. You can also wrap a strip of double-sided tape around the marker instead. Pay attention to the color that's facing you. For example, if you used yellow and orange for your paper, and the yellow strip is facing you--remember that! Rotate the marker so that the strips of paper are now on the back. Make another drop of hot glue on...


Cut 3⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood to match the size of your frame. Drill holes in the plywood either in a grid or at random. Hammer T-nuts into the back of each hole. Attach the plywood to the framework with nails or screws. Screw in the handholds to make different climbing routes. Place soft padding under the wall in case of falls.

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Make sure you have non-perforated wood rather than particle wood for the best support. Use a table saw or circular saw to cut your plywood down to the correct size to fit the frame. Try to keep the boards in the largest sheets possible so you can easily put the wall together. Standard plywood sizes tend to be either 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m) or 3 ft × 8 ft (0.91 m × 2.44 m). Purchase enough to cover all of the framework. Use a 7⁄16 in (1.1 cm) drill bit for each hole you plan on making. If you want a clean layout, draw a grid on the plywood so each square is 8 in × 8 in (20 cm × 20 cm). Drill your holes where the lines intersect. If you want a more eclectic look, put the holes in random spots. How you drill the holes is a matter of preference. Either way will work for installing the handholds. Use the same number of T-nuts as the number of holes you drilled into the plywood. Flip the sheet of plywood onto its back and use a hammer to pound the nuts into each hole. Make sure the back of the nut is flush with the back of the plywood. T-nuts serve as an anchor point to attach each of the handholds. Put a nail or screw in the top, middle, and bottom of the plywood at each support beam. If you place 2 pieces of plywood next to one another and notice that it’s bowing, put another nail or screw in so it lays flat. Place the hole in the handhold over one of the holes drilled in the wall. Use the screw provided with the handhold and a drill to secure it to the wall. Add as many handholds as you want depending on how easy or difficult you want the wall.  Handholds can be purchased online or at specialty climbing stores. Some handholds can be attached with screws without a T-nut on the back. Make routes on the wall using different colored handholds. For example, space red handholds farther apart to make a difficult route or place green handholds close together to make an easy route. Place foam gymnastic mats or thin mattress under the walls so you have a cushion in case you fall off the wall. Cover the area around...


Cut 4 equal strands of yarn. Wrap the braid around your wrist and tie the ends together.

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Wrap a fabric measuring tape around your wrist and make a note of the measurement. Then, cut 4 strands of yarn that are about 2 inches (5.1 cm) longer than that distance. This will account for weaving and tying off the ends of the bracelet.If you're braiding thin thread, you may want to use 2 or 3 strands for each main strand of the braid. Since it can be tricky to tie a knot using 1 hand, ask a friend to knot the ends together for you. If you have a long bracelet, you may be able to tie a knot at the ends before sliding it onto your wrist. If you make an extra-large bracelet, you can wear it as an anklet.


Cut 4 in (10 cm) thick upholstery foam to the size of your seat.

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Measure the length and width of your chair or bench seat first, then cut the resulting square or rectangle out of thick, upholstery foam. Use a hand saw or serrated knife to do this; do not use scissors.  You can find these foam inserts in the foam and pillow filling section of a craft store. You can reuse an old chair cushion, as long as it is box-shaped with a defined height. Don't use a plain, old pillow for this.


Cut 5-6 cumin plants at their stem after about 4 months of growth. Put the pod clusters inside a paper bag and let them dry for 7-10 days. Rub the pods with your fingers to harvest the seeds.

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Cumin seeds first bloom into little white and pink flowers, and then the flowers develop into seed pods. When the pods turn brown, the cumin is ready to harvest. Using a pair of scissors or gardening shears, trim a few plants where the flower meets the stem when you notice brown pods.  Cumin seeds often ripen unevenly, so keep a watchful eye on your plants after about 4 months of growth. Repeat this every time you see about 5-6 plants with brown pods. After you cut down the plants, separate the pod clusters with your fingers and put them inside of a brown paper bag. The pods will easily section off from the plants with little force. Do this for all of your pods, and tie your paper bag up with a twist tie or rubber band. Hang the bag upside down from a string on your ceiling in a warm, dry place. You can hang the bag in your kitchen, for example. After about 10 days, your pods are completely dry and ready for use. To get to the seeds, hold 1 pod in between your index finger and thumb, and rub your fingers together. The seed will easily fall out of the pod. Gather all the seeds, and either use them right away or place them in a airtight container for storage. If your seeds are  not coming out of the pod, hit your full brown paper bag against a hard surface to dislodge the seeds. Then, pick through the organic matter to get your seeds.


Cut 6 inches (15 cm) off of a 10 ft (3.0 m) PVC pipe. Glue the smaller segment to the larger pipe with an elbow joint. Place plastic caps on both ends of the pipe. Insert the pipe into the septic system until it contacts the scum. Use a marker to mark the pipe at the top of the manhole. Push the pipe through the scum then mark it again. Measure the space between the marks to find the scum depth.

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In order to measure the scum level in your septic system, you need to create a measuring stick out of PVC pipe. Use a saw or a pipe cutter to remove a small section from the larger pipe.  PVC pipe is relatively cheap and can be found at home improvement stores and online. Use sandpaper to smooth the edges of the cut pipe if necessary. Cut the pipe evenly to form a straight edge that will fit into an elbow joint. Take a PVC elbow joint and insert the smaller section into it. Apply glue to the pipe and joint to seal them together. Then, insert the larger pipe into the joint and apply glue to connect them.  You can find elbow joints that will fit your PVC pipes at hardware or home improvement stores. Use superglue and use enough to create a tight seal. Use plastic caps designed to fit over PVC pipes and seal both ends of the “L” shaped pipe with them. They should snap securely into place to create a seal. You can find plastic caps for PVC pipes at hardware and home improvement stores, or online. You need to measure 2 levels to find the depth of the scum in your tank. Insert the short end of the “L” shaped pipe into the manhole of your tank until it makes contact with the top of the liquid in the tank with the long side sticking straight up. This is the top of the scum layer. Allow the pipe to float on the top surface for an accurate measurement. To take your first measurement, mark the pipe where it's even with the top of the manhole as a reference point. The pipe should be floating on top of the scum layer.  Make sure the line that you mark is straight and even. Use a black marker so it's easier to see against the white PVC pipe. After you've taken your measurement of the top layer of the scum, push the pipe down through the scum until it contacts the bottom of the dense layer of scum and reaches the wastewater layer. Then mark the pipe where it's even with the top of the manhole.  Keep the pipe still while you hold it against the bottom of the tank so it doesn't move when you mark it. The wastewater layer will...


Cut 90 pieces of wire that are 18" (43cm) long. Remove one wire from the bundle.

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Here the wire is wrapped around a book 90 times. Then wire cutters were used to cut all of the pieces at once. Bend it in half as you smooth out the kinks in the wire, using the cloth. You can smooth the wire with your bare hands but it's easier on your fingers if you use a cloth.


Cut a 10 by 20 in (25 by 51 cm) rectangle out of fabric. Cut a 20 in (51 cm) long piece of ribbon or string.

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Choose a durable fabric, such as cotton, linen, canvas, or jersey. Use a tailor's chalk or pen and a ruler to draw a 10 by 20 in (25 by 51 cm) rectangle on the back of the fabric. Cut the fabric out with fabric scissors.  The fabric can be solid colored or it can have a print on it. This pattern already includes seam allowances, so you don't need to add more. You can make a bigger/smaller bag if you want to, but keep the proportions the same. Make it twice as long as it is wide. Choose a piece of ribbon or string that is no more than 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) wide. Measure out 20 inches (51 cm), then cut it. This will make the drawstring that will open and close your bag.  Match the color to your bag, or use a contrasting color. For example, if you have a blue canvas bag, a thin, white rope would look nice. If your ribbon or string is made from polyester, singe the cut ends with a flame to prevent unraveling. If your ribbon or string is not made from polyester, seal the cut ends with fabric glue or fray-check. Let the ends dry before moving on.


Cut a 10 by 3½ inch (25.4 by 8.89 centimeters) rectangle of leather or suede. Cut a 3 by ¼ inch (7.62 by 0.64 centimeters) strip of leather or suede. Fold the small strip in half to make a loop, and secure the ends with glue. Hold the ends together with a binger clip or a clothespin until the glue dries. Draw a horizontal line across the rectangle, ¾ inch (1.91 centimeters) from the top/long edge. Draw vertical lines, spaced ¼ inch (0.64 centimeters) apart. Cut the vertical lines using a sharp pair of scissors or a craft blade. Glue the small loop to the left side of your fringe. Start rolling the fringe around the loop, from left to right. Secure the end of the rectangle with glue. Wrap a rubber band around the tassel to hold it together until it dries. Consider wrapping a piece of ribbon or colored thread around the top to hide the seam. Use your tassel.

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This will make the body of your tassel. Make sure that the material you are using is thin and soft, of your tassel will be too stiff. This will make the loop so that you can hang your tassel later on. You can use the same color as your tassel, or a contrasting color. Make sure that the rectangle is oriented horizontally, with the long edge facing you. If you'd like to make a keychain, place a key ring inside the loop before you add the glue. Once the glue dries, you can remove the clip. If you don't have any clips, then place a heavy object, such as a book or jar, down on top of the folded loop. This will be your guideline. You will be cutting the fringe up to this line. Make sure that you are drawing the line on the back of the leather/suede. This way, you won't see it when you are done.  If your leather/suede is very dark, try a light-colored pen or a white colored pencil. Use a ruler to make your line as straight as possible. Make sure that they are going from the bottom of the rectangle up to the horizontal line. These will be the cutting lines for your fringe. The vertical lines should not go past the horizontal line. Remember to use a ruler so that the lines will be as even as possible. Do not cut past the horizontal line, or your tassel will be uneven. The edge of the loop should be aligned with the narrow end of the rectangle. The bottom of the loop should be touching the horizontal guideline. Apply some glue every inch or so to help the tassel hold together. Also, try to roll it as tightly as possible. This will keep your tassel from being too bulky. Once you reach the end of the rectangle, draw a line of glue along the side, going from the horizontal guideline all the way up to the top. Do not get any glue on the fringe. Press the glued edge down firmly onto the tassel. You don't need to wrap anything around the fringe part, because there is no glue there. Once the glue dries, you can remove the rubber band. Once you have pulled the rubber band off, your tassel is ready to go. If you want, however,...


Cut a 12-inch (30.48-centimeter) piece of yarn, and set it aside.

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You will be using this piece of yarn to tie your pompom together. Your fingers will be literally tied up, so it will be easier to do this part first.


Cut a 2 inch (5.08 centimeters) long piece of yarn. Place the yarn into a small glass jar. Add 1 tablespoon (30 milliliters) of bleach into the jar. Close the jar tightly and wait a few hours to overnight. Check the jar and examine the results.

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The color of the yarn does not matter. The bleach will dissolve real wool, and it won't do anything to acrylic. Make sure that your jar has a lid, as you will need to seal it in order for this to work. The bleach should completely cover the yarn. If you are using a larger jar, you may need more bleach. Keep adding bleach until it covers and soaks the yarn. You may notice a slight fizzing after a few minutes. Don't worry. This is normal, and an indicator that the yarn is made of wool, or another natural fiber. If the yarn has disappeared, it was made from wool. If the yarn is still there, take a closer look. A 100% acrylic yarn will be mostly unchanged, although it may have faded a little. Yarn made from an acrylic-wool blend will appear somewhat damaged. It may be faded, ragged, or thinner than when you first put it in.


Cut a 20-inch diameter circle out of ¾-inch plywood. Draw your final design on a large piece of circular paper. Use the protractor to measure exactly 15 degrees to the right. Paint your design onto the wooden circle. Obtain the gnomon. Prepare the sundial post for mounting. Cut the angle into the post. Dig a hole for the post. Attach the sundial face to the post. Rotate the sundial face so that the 6am and 6pm lines are horizontal. Set the time and attach the gnomon.

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This circle will be the sundial’s face. Coat both sides of the wooden circle with primer. As the primer dries, think about what you want your sundial to look like. You will need to choose a number style, such as Roman numerals, standard numbers, and so on.  Pick out the colors you want to use and, if you like, a drawing or illustration to put on the face. Sketch out a few different designs until you’ve settled on something final. You will be using this as a stencil to transfer the design onto the wooden circle, so draw it to scale. Now you need to put the numbers onto the design, which will require some precise measuring. Use a straightedge and a protractor to do this.  Start with the number 12 at the very top, like a clock’s face. Measure where the center of the circle is, then use the straightedge to draw a precise line from the 12 to the center. Mark the number 1 there. Use the straightedge to draw another hour line. Continue marking the numbers exactly 15 degrees apart. Move in a clockwise direction and use the protractor to continue marking off the numbers. Work your way around until you get to the number 12. This will be directly across from the first 12. These represent noon and midnight.  Then start over with 1 again until you end up back at the original 12 at the very top. The numbers are now accurately marked onto the paper. The full 24 hours is represented for the most precise accuracy. When seasons change, so does the position of Earth. In summer, days are longer. In winter, they are shorter. There are days in the summer when there are more than 12 hours of daylight. Use your paper as a stencil so that the numbers and hour lines match what you’ve measured out precisely. Use paint markers to put the numbers onto the wood, since they will involve fine detail work. Paint markers are preferable to permanent markers, since they’re more resilient to the elements. The gnomon is the part of the sundial that will cast the shadow. It is a length of threaded pipe, and you’ll need it to be approximately two...


Cut a 9 inch (23 cm) circle out of white craft foam to make the hat. Glue a piece of yellow boa to the inside edge of foam shell. Hot glue the cone to a yellow pilot cap to complete the cracked egg hat. Measure your child's waist and torso with a measuring tape. Cut a strip of cardboard with sharp scissors. Cut a rectangle of felt from about 1 yard (0.91 m) of the fabric. Form a loop with the cardboard. Attach the felt to the cardboard. Trim the top of the felt to create a cracked egg edge. Strengthen the lower eggshell with quilt batting. Create a rounded bottom edge with darts. Cut 2 pieces of yellow ribbon and glue them to the bottom shell. Dress your child in yellow clothing before putting on the shell components. Tie on the bottom shell component and hat to complete the costume.

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To create the look of a cracked shell for the hat, trim the circle so that it has a zigzag pattern. From the edge of circle, make cut toward the center that's 3.5 inches (9 cm) long. Overlap the edges to create a cone shape and secure the edges together with hot glue. The cone shape will create a space for your child to wear this piece as a hat. Use hot glue to secure a yellow bow around the inner rim of the cone, trimming the boa as needed to remove any excess length. Once attached, the yellow feathers should just peek out from underneath the cracked shell foam. You can get yellow feather boas at any craft store. A baby's pilot cap looks like a skull cap with 2 strings that are tied under the chin to secure the cap in place. Place the cracked egg portion on top of the pilot cap and hot glue it in place so that the pointed cone end is facing the ceiling. If possible, use a yellow pilot cap, but a white one will do in a pinch. Wrap the tape around his or her stomach. The measuring tape should cross the belly button. Double measurement, then subtract 1 inch (2.5 cm) from that measurement, which creates enough space in the costume for that Humpty Dumpty shape look you're going for. For the torso, measure the space between the child's crotch and his or her mid-chest. Add 2 inches (5 cm) to this measurement. You can also use a craft knife. The strip of cardboard should be about 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide and  the same length as the waist measurement you took. Use sturdy cardboard that can bend without creasing. The width of the rectangle should match the measurement you took of your child's torso. The length of the rectangle should match the measurement you took of your child's waist. Gently fold the cardboard strip into a loop without creasing it. Squeeze a line of hot glue on one end of the cardboard. Overlap the ends as you're sticking them together, reducing the total circumference by no more than 1 inch (2.5 cm). Cover the cardboard loop with hot glue. Then wrap the rectangle of felt around the outside of the...


Cut a V-shape into the card. Slide a credit card next to the tick's head.

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Using a pair of scissors, cut a small V-shape along the edge of the card. It should be large enough to grab the tick, but not so large that the tick and slip through. Slide the credit card between your skin and the tick, aligning the V-cut with the tick's head.


Cut a circle from a piece of plywood. Cut another circle. Cut a hole from the main circle.

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Purchase a strong square of plywood and cut a circle ~36-48" in diameter. You will probably need to use a jigsaw to cut the circle from the plywood, but you can use another method if you are more comfortable with one. Sand the edges when you are done to avoid painful splinters.    You will need a smaller circle of plywood, roughly 6”-1' in diameter. This will be used later. About halfway between the center and the edge, trace the end of a straw onto the larger circle. Cut out the traced circle using a Swiss Army Knife. Remove the straw when you are done checking for fit. Check for a good fit by putting your straw in the hole. If it doesn't fit well, you can seal it later using duct tape.


Cut a dressing from airtight material. Ask the person to exhale. Place the plastic over the wound. Wrap a dressing around the chest. Leave any protruding objects.

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Sterile plastic is the ideal thing to create a dressing out of. However, depending on your circumstances, you may not have access to this. Use the best thing immediately available to you.  The plastic packaging for a sterile bandage can be a good makeshift dressing. A clean ziploc bag works well. If the wound is small, a credit card can sometimes be used when there is nothing else available. If clean plastic is not available, you can try using a folded piece of clean fabric. If you have absolutely nothing else you can use, you can use your own hand, which should be protected with a glove, as a last resort. If the person is able to, they should exhale and hold it, so that their chest cavity is flat while you place the plastic. This helps force some of the air out of the wound.  Forcing air out before sealing the wound will allow the person to breathe more easily after the wound is sealed. If the person is unconscious or can’t hold their breath for any reason, place the plastic on the wound after their chest falls and before it rises. Make sure that the plastic dressing extends at least 2 inches (or 5cm) beyond the wound edges. This prevents the dressing from being sucked back into the wound. The dressing should be taped down on three sides.  It’s best to tape the top and sides of the dressing and leave the bottom open.  Leaving one side open allows for air to escape when the person exhales. Sterile medical tape is ideal, but use whatever you have available. If no kind of tape is available, you or the victim will need to hold the plastic in place until the chest can be bandaged. If you have a field dressing available, wrap one tail under and around the victim. Wrap the other tail around them in the opposite direction and bring it back over the dressing. Tighten the two tails and tie them with a nonslip knot over the center of the dressing.  The knot will provide additional pressure over the wound and will help to keep the seal airtight. The dressing should not interfere with breathing. Keep pressure on the...


Cut a fresh loaf of Cuban bread lengthwise. Brush butter on the outside of the bread. Spread the yellow mustard. Add cheese to both sides. Cover one side with dill pickles. Add a layer of ham slices. Pile on the roast pork. Heat a sandwich press or similar tool. Press the sandwich.

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Cuban bread is long and thin, and turns crisp in the panini press without getting uncomfortably hard. You can find similar bread at a Latin bakery. The next best substitute is a long, soft French or Italian loaf (but nothing as narrow and hard as a baguette), followed by a hoagie roll. Cut it about 7 inches (17.8 cm) long, or to a size that matches your appetite. Leave one long edge of the bread intact for a tidier sandwich. This will stop it from sticking to the sandwich press. It's easiest to do this before adding the ingredients. If you're using nonstick cooking spray instead, spray it on the inside of the sandwich press. Spread about 2 tbsp (30 mL) of regular yellow mustard evenly over both sides of the bread. Almost all recipes include mustard, but you can serve it on the side if you're using extra-flavorful pork. Cover both halves of the bread with mild Swiss cheese. Many traditional recipes use an equal ratio of cheese, ham, and pork, but you can cut the slices thinner if you prefer. Slice two large dill pickles to make eight or ten long, thin slices (or buy them pre-cut into "sandwich stuffers"). Lay these onto one side of your sandwich. Fold four slices of very thin ham over the pickles. You can use any ham you like, but the most traditional choice is a mild, sweet-cured ham such as York ham, bolo ham, or any honey-cured ham. You can even bake a ham with a home-made honey glaze. Now for the star of the show. Warm several slices of roast pork in a pan over low heat, then add it to the sandwich. For extra flavor, use pork marinated in Cuban mojo sauce, or drizzle on the sauce in the pan. The sauce's main ingredients are garlic and sour orange (or orange, lemon, and lime where sour orange isn't available). You can use pulled pork if you don't have any sliced pork. Although traditional Cuban sandwiches are made with a grill press called a plancha, most cooks outside of Florida have to make do with one of these options:  Sandwich press or panini maker Waffle iron, with the metal plates flipped so their...


Cut a hexagon shape out of paper. Push a pin through the center of the pinwheel.

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Draw or print a hexagon directly on the paper you will be using. Cut the hexagon out using a pair of scissors or a metal ruler and a sharp blade. Scrapbooking paper works especially well for this, especially the double-sides kind. Make sure that you catch all of the folded-over corners. Have the tip of the pin come out the back of the pinwheel. Wiggle the pin a little to help widen and loosen the hole.


Cut a hole in a plywood board, larger than the cylinder. Attach wooden pieces, spaced around the hole. Repeat if making a dual-tone siren.

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The cylinder, or rotor, that you built will blow air if spun, but won't yet make any sound. For that, you'll need a stationary container, or stator, around the cylinder. Start with a piece of plywood, and cut a hole just a bit larger than the cylinder you'll be putting through it. Alternatively, if you can find a sturdy wastebasket of the correct size, cut a hole in the base of it. This will also provide a horn to amplify the sound. Cut out wooden pieces with the same outer circumference as the hole you cut, and the same thickness as the "shark fins" you used in the cylinder. The goal is to end up with an outer rim with holes that will line up exactly with the cylinder's. Glue these around the hole and clamp until dry. If your cylinder has two spinning levels of "shark fins," you'll need a second wooden rim protruding beyond the first, where the second level of your cylinder will spin. This rim, similar to the first, will have spaces that line up exactly with the second level of the cylinder as it spins.


Cut a large metal drum in half vertically with a jigsaw. Clean the inside of the half-drum with a degreasing soap. Cut a large rectangle of sheet metal to fit the curved interior of the drum. Cut two half circles to fit inside the ends of the drum. Attach the sheet metal to the inside of the drum. Paint the inside of the oven with a reflective paint rated for barbecues. Create a metal lip with flashing around three top edges of the oven. Flip the half-drum over and apply spray-on insulation to the outside. Attach a base to the bottom of the oven to keep it from tipping over. Drill drainage holes in the bottom of the oven. Slide a custom-sized sheet of tempered glass into the metal lip. Insert a thermometer into the oven, if you want. Place aluminum racks on the bottom of the oven. Cook your food on a sunny day.

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An oil drum will work well for this purpose. Be sure to use a metal-cutting blade; when you’re done, the half-drum should look like a cradle. You only need half of the drum to make the oven. You can discard the other half. Put some degreasing soap onto a scrub brush. Thoroughly scrub the inside of the half-drum with degreasing soap and water. Pay extra attention to the corners and crevices, where grease can accumulate. The long side should be as long as the long side of the drum. The other should equal the curved width of the interior of the drum. You can measure the curved interior with a flexible measuring tape, and then mark it out on the sheet metal.  Use tin snips to cut sheet metal. Always wear safety goggles and protective gloves when cutting sheet metal. For the large rectangle: one side be as long as the long side of the drum, the other should equal the curved length of the interior. You can measure this with a flexible measuring tape. Cut a string the length of the radius of the end of the drum. Tie a marker to the end of the string. Hold the string onto the sheet metal, and swivel the marker around to draw a circle. Cut out the circle and cut it in half. Cut using tin snips, wearing safety goggles and protective gloves. Drill holes through both the sheet metal and the drum with a ⅛ inch (.32 cm) drill bit, then apply ⅛ inch (.32 cm) pop rivets with a rivet gun. Slide the rivet into the nozzle of the rivet gun. Place the rivet into the hole you have drilled and squeeze the trigger of the rivet gun. This will maximize the amount of heat inside the oven. You can buy reflective paint at a hardware store or online. Make sure that you wear gloves and non-fancy clothes when you’re painting, and that you paint in a well-ventilated place, preferably outside. This will hold the glass top, which you will slide in and out through the open side. The easiest way to create a lip is with six pieces of metal flashing:  Make a flashing “sandwich” by putting on two layers of flashing so that the glass can slide...


Cut a large plastic bottle down to the height you want. Choose a smaller plastic bottle for the inside of you vase. Mix the concrete in a plastic tub or bucket. Consider adding some color for a marbled effect.

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Choose a large plastic bottle that you want to use as the base of your vase. Use a craft blade to cut the top portion off. This will not only make inserting the smaller bottle easier, but pouring the cement in as well. The bottle needs to be small enough to fit inside the larger bottle with at least ½-inch (1.27-centimeter) of space between the two. If the bottle has a label on it, be sure to remove it first, otherwise, it will show up on the finished vase. Follow the instructions on the container as each brand will be a little different. In most cases, you will need to stir 1 part water into 4 parts of cement. You can use a paint stick or even a trowel to mix the concrete. Always wear gloves and protective goggles while mixing concrete. This works great with white concrete. Scoop out some of your concrete into a separate container. Stir in some pigment into it until evenly combined. Pour the white concrete into the dyed concrete. Stir it a few times until it starts to look marbled and swirly. Make sure that you are using concrete-appropriate pigments. If they are not sold alongside the concrete in the store, you will need to buy them online.


Cut a lemon in half. Dip one of the cut sides of the lemon in salt. Rub the salt and lemon over the surface of the brass until it shines. Use a toothbrush to clean hard-to-reach places. Rinse the jewelry and dry it thoroughly.

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The acidity in a lemon is perfect for dissolving dirt and tarnish on brass, without being so abrasive that you’ll damage the finish. Place the lemon on a cutting board, then carefully slice it in half lengthwise.  Cutting the lemon lengthwise will give you more surface area to work with, but it’s fine if you cut it the other way. You may want to remove any visible seeds, although this isn’t necessary. You can also use a lime, if that’s what you have on hand. Pour a thin layer of salt onto a small plate or saucer. Then, press the cut side of one of your lemon halves into the salt. The salt will stick to the lemon, coating the cut side completely. Hold your brass jewelry in one hand, or lay it on a flat surface and use your hand to hold it steady. Then, rub the lemon and salt all over your brass jewelry. The combination of the acidic lemon and the abrasive salt should quickly loosen and remove dirt and tarnish from the jewelry.  Keep doing this until the jewelry shines. You may need to dip the lemon in the salt again, especially if it’s a large piece. For smaller pieces with a lot of detail, squeeze out a little of the lemon juice into the pile of salt and mix it until it forms a paste. Then, dip a soft toothbrush into the paste and apply it to the jewelry. Scrub gently until it's clean. Once you’re happy with how your jewelry looks, rinse it well under running water. Then, rub it vigorously with a soft, dry cloth to make sure it’s completely dry. If you leave any water on the jewelry, it could leave spots. Make sure to completely wash away any lemon juice; otherwise, it could etch the surface of your jewelry.


Cut a length of burlap ribbon. Crisscross the ends over the center. Pinch and tie the center. Cut a smaller length of burlap ribbon. Cover the center using the second piece. Snip the ribbon ends. Use as desired.

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Use scissors to cut 2 to 3 feet (61 to 91 cm) of wired or free-form burlap ribbon.  This can be done with nearly any width, but 2 to 4 inch (5 to 10 cm) wide ribbon will work well for many decorative applications. If you use a much thicker ribbon, you may need to cut a longer piece. It's better to start with too much length than too little since you can trim off any excess toward the end of the project. Lay the burlap ribbon flat an identify the center. Fold the ends so that they crisscross over this center point.  The top edge of each folded end should intersect at the exact center point of the ribbon, but the rest of the end will angle downward below this point. Fold the ribbon so that the folds are about as large as you want the final ribbon loops to be. Make sure that both sides are even. Pinch the ribbon at the center point of intersection, then tie it in place with a small wire tie or piece of twine.  Pinch from top to bottom and adjust the inner pleats that form as needed. You should also make any necessary adjustments to the size and shape of the loops before tying off the center. Trim the wire tie or ribbon after tying it on. Keep it as short as possible so it will be easier to cover. Use scissors to cut 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) of wired or free-form burlap ribbon. This piece of ribbon should be one-half to two-thirds the width of the main ribbon. Make sure that it is wide enough to hide the center but not wide enough to distort the shape of the bow. Wrap the new length of burlap around the center of the bow and tack it into place using hot glue.  Make sure that this piece of burlap completely hides the wire or ribbon holding the bow's shape. Also note that the end of this center piece should be positioned to the back of the bow. Trim the ends of the burlap as desired, and try to keep both ends the same approximate length. You can trim the ends at a simple slant, but cutting a "v" shape into both ends can give the bow a decorative appearance. Doing so also makes the burlap less likely to unravel....


Cut a length of ribbon. Make two loops in your ribbon. Cross the loops over and under each other. Gently adjust the length of the tails and the loops. Straighten the knot, if needed. Shape the ribbons and trim the tails.

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How long the ribbon is depends on how big you want the bow to be. The wider the ribbon is, the more ribbon you will need to cut. This method will create something that looks like the standard bow you'd use to tie shoe laces with. Find the center of your length of ribbon first, then make a loop to each side of that point. Make sure that both loops are pointing upward. Gently tug on the loops to tighten the knot. This is just like when you are tying your shoes. Pull the loops or tails one at a time until you get the length you want them to be. Stop when the loops are the right length for you, then tug on them both at the same time to tighten the knot. Don't worry if the tails are too long. If you have a very wide ribbon, the knot in the middle may be wrinkled. Slip your forefingers under each side of the knot on the front of the ribbon. Straighten out the side edges of the knot. Use your fingers to fluff up the loops to you liking. The wires inside the ribbons will help the loops keep their shape. If you need to, use a pair of scissors to trim the ribbon tails down. You can cut the tail ends at angles or into notches.


Cut a long band of elastic. Try on the pants again. Pin the elastic band together at the point that you marked with your fabric pen. Choose a 4-way stretch knit fabric or tight t-shirt to use for the section of the bands that will fit over your stomach. Measure your elastic band with a fabric measuring tape. Cut a length of knit or t-shirt material that is equal to the width measurement. Pin the ends of the fabric together to form a loop, as if you are trying to make a tube top. Fold the fabric tube in half so that the back sides are touching. Measure a casing for your elastic. Mark the measurement with a fabric pen or piece of chalk. Sew along that line using a zig zag stitch. Insert your elastic loop into the bottom of the fabric loop. Sew a seam just below the elastic band around the entire tube.

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You should use elastic that is 2 inches (5 cm) or wider so that it does not dig into your belly. Wrap the elastic around your waist, at top edge of your pants, where they meet your pelvic bones. Mark a length on the band that is comfortable and not too tight. Remember that you want the elastic to be tight enough to keep the pants on, but also allow a little room for growth. Cut off excess any excess elastic. Sew the ends of the elastic band together. You may want to choose black, blue or another color to match your pants or a patterned fabric that will create some attractive contrast.  You will need at least 1/4 of a yard for the fabric waistband. A Lycra/cotton blend will work well. If you buy a length of knit fabric, ensure that it is fairly elastic, so that it does not stretch too far. If you choose a t-shirt, find 1 that fits snugly over your belly. You can cut a horizontal section of the shirt to use as your waist band. Subtract 2 inches (5 cm) from that measurement. This is your width measurement for your fabric waist band. Cut it so that it is between 14 and 17 inches (35.6 to 43.2 cm) tall. If you have a short torso, choose a 14 inch (35.6 cm) measurement, and use a longer measurement if you have a long torso. Sew the side together on your sewing machine. The new seam should be folded in half and you should have both rough edges at the bottom and the fold at the top. Depending upon the width of your elastic band, you will need to measure the width plus 5/8 inches (1.6 cm). For example, if you have a 2 inch (5 cm) elastic band, then measure 2 and 5/8 inches (6.6 cm) up from the rough edge. Mark the measurement around the entire fabric loop. This will allow you to stretch the fabric when you pull your pants on and off. You want to sew between 2 layers of folded fabric, but be sure not to sew through both sides of the loop. It should stop at the line you have just sewn. Use a zig zag stitch again.  This will close your casing for the elastic band.


Cut a long piece of wrapping paper. Slide a bowl under your wrapping paper and place the gift on top. Pull the wrapping paper to the top of the object. Crease the wrapping paper gently, going around the ball to cover it. Tie the excess paper at the top with a ribbon.

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You’ll need a length of wrapping paper that’s longer than it is wide, but it should be wide enough to cover the gift completely. When the gift is in the center of the paper, you should have at least a few inches of paper left over on either side. The exact size of the paper depends on the size of your gift. It’s better to err on the side of caution, though, since you can always trim off extra paper at the end. Putting your gift on top of a bowl or a large roll of tape will give it something to stand up on, which will make it easier for you to wrap. Once you’ve slid the bowl under, place your gift on top and slide it so it’s in the center of your paper.  The short sides should be to the left and right of the gift, and the long sides should be in front and behind it. Use a bowl or tape roll that’s small enough to hold your object up without letting it slip through. With one hand, reach across your gift and pull the long side of the wrapping paper towards you, bending it up and over the top. Make sure it reaches the center of your gift, and let the excess paper jut out to the sides. Holding the edge of the wrapping paper against the top of the gift in one hand. With the other, start to gather the rest of the paper and gently fold it into the top. Collect the paper in one hand as you move around the gift.  You can make the folds large or small, depending on the size of the gift and the look you’re going for. As you get to the other side of the ball, switch hands so that you’re folding with the hand closest to the unbent paper. Once you’ve gathered all the wrapping paper at the top, use a ribbon to tie it into place. You can also apply some tape to make it extra secure. Then, cut the excess wrapping at the top until it’s a few inches long, or whatever looks best. Cut your ribbon before you start wrapping so you don’t have to hold the paper and cut the ribbon at the same time.


Cut a piece of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to the length of the bat house. Use lag bolts to attach the wood vertically near the post. Cut 2 pieces of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) to roughly the width of the bat house. Screw the 2 lengths of wood onto the post mount with lag bolts. Mark pilot holes along the back of the bat house. Drill pilot holes into the back of the bat house. Copy the pilot holes to the horizontal wooden brackets. Secure the bat house to the wooden mounts with 3 in (7.6 cm) deck screws.

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This will provide a flat surface that you can attach the bat house to, rather than attempting to screw it directly onto the pole. Measure the height of the bat house and use a saw to cut a piece of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to length. This will be used to build part of the mounting bracket. It doesn’t need to be exactly the right length, as long as the other pieces of wood are attached at the right distance apart. Hold the piece of wood against the top end of the post so that it faces in the direction you want your bat house to face. Use 3 3⁄8 by 3 in (0.95 by 7.62 cm) lag bolts or lag screws to attach the wooden mount to the face of the post. Screw them in until they are flush with the wood.  Drill some pilot holes into the pre-cut length of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to make inserting the lag bolts easier. Use an adhesive caulk or something similar to hold the wood in place while you screw in the lag bolts. Screw 1 lag bolt into the wood roughly 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the top, another 1 inch (2.5 cm) below that, and a final one 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the bottom of the wood. If you are attaching the mounts and the bat house to post that has already been erected, you'll need to use a ladder to reach the top. Make sure the ladder is on even ground and someone holds it steady while you work. These two pieces of wood will be used to hold the bat house to the mount attached to the wooden post. Measure the width of the bat house and add 2 inches (5.1 cm). Use a handsaw to cut two pieces of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to this length. As with the previous piece of wood, these 2 mounts only need to be wider than the bat house. Don’t worry too much if they are slightly longer or a little uneven. Position 1 piece of the pre-cut wood so that it sits in front of and flush with the top of the post mount. Use a 3⁄8 by 3 in (0.95 by 7.62 cm) lag bolt to attach the length of wood to the post mount, making sure not to hit the lag bolt beneath it. Repeat with the other piece of wood so it is flush with the bottom of...


Cut a piece of cardboard into a rectangle. Tape the squares together on one side. Tape the rectangles other end to the far square's furthermost end. Cut another square the same size. Cut the excess cardboard off.

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Cut two squares, making the sides as long as the thin side of the rectangle. Size the rectangle to match the fingerboard's proportions. Tape the rectangle's short end on one of the sides of the square, opposite the other square. Make sure the rectangle curves inward. Tape two of its sides to the other two squares sides on one end of the rectangle. Tape the side of the end to the curved rectangle. Repeat these steps on the other side.


Cut a piece of felt to size. Place your iPod in the center of the felt. Remove the iPod and tidy up the pins so that they are all straight. Slip the iPod out again and cut off any excess felt at the sides. Sew Remove the pins. From the white felt, cut out a “screen”, a large “click wheel”, and a small “click wheel button.” Attach snap buttons. Finished!

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The length should be twice the length of the iPod plus a flap; the width should be the width plus twice the depth (i.e. distance from the front to the back of the iPod). Mark these measurements on your felt and cut. Fold up the bottom of the felt so that it covers most of the front of the iPod. Pin the felt into place nice and tight. Slip the iPod back in to make sure it fits snugly. Be careful not to scratch it with the pins. Snip the corners of the flap so that they are rounded. the sides of the iPod cover. Turn the whole thing inside out. Base these on the measurements of the actual screen and click wheel and stitch them into place as shown. Take a snap and stitch the top half of the snap to the inside of the flap. Stitch the bottom half of the snap on to the top of the inside flap. Insert iPod.


Cut a piece of paper into an 8 inch (20.3 cm) by  12 inch (30.5 cm) rectangle. Orient your paper landscape style. Attach a cracker snap to the top of the paper. Lay a strip of double-sided tape along the top edge of your paper. Use a strip of double sided tape to attach an empty toilet paper tube to the bottom center of your paper. Make the cracker body. Tie one of the end of the Christmas cracker shut.

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You can use gift wrap, construction paper, butcher paper, scrapbooking paper, or even tissue paper.   Hide the contents if you use tissue paper. Stack 2 to 3 sheets so the contents will stay invisible. The paper does not have to be Christmas themed. It can be winter themed instead. Blue, white, and silver stripes are perfect for a Winter Wonderland party. You can use a summer theme if December is a summer month where you live. Match the paper to your table settings. Your table will be more festive if the crackers match the napkins, plates, candles, decorations, etc. Start with one of the long edges facing you. If your paper has one side patterned and blank on the other (such as scrapbooking paper or gift wrap), make sure that the blank side faces up. This will make your Christmas cracker pop like store bought ones. Place a long strip of double-sided tape at 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the top edge of the paper, . Press the cracker snap onto the tape. Make sure that it is centered. Both ends of the cracker snap need to be taped down. Many craft and dollar stores sell cracker snaps during the holiday season. You can also find them available online. Make sure that the tape goes from edge-to-edge to seal your Christmas cracker shut. If you added a cracker snap, the tape will be just above it. You should have about 4 inch (10.2 cm) on either side of the toilet paper tube. If you can't find any toilet paper tubes, cut an empty paper towel tube in half. You can also get an empty gift wrap tube, and cut 4 inch (10.2 cm)) segments. Roll the toilet paper tube as evenly and as tightly as you can towards the top of the paper to keep the paper smooth. When you get to the top edge, run your finger along the tape to seal it. Get as close to the toilet paper tube as possible. (See the Tips section)  Do not tie the other end shut yet. You can use anything to tie the cracker shut. Choose something that matches your paper or your theme for pizzaz. For example:  For something fancy or elegant, use a piece of satin, sheer, or curling...


Cut a piece of thick canvas or fabric. Cut out a piece of fabric adhesive. Back the fabric strip. Push the wire back in the bra. Put the fabric strip on.

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You'll use this piece of fabric to patch the hole, so it needs to be large enough to cover it. You may want to bend it over the edge of the bra for extra security, so make sure it is big enough to do so. You may also want to choose a piece of fabric that's similar in color to your bra. That way, that patch will blend in better. The adhesive strip should be about the same size as the fabric strip. You can hold the fabric strip up to the canvas to measure it. As you hold it, cut around the strip. At the fabric store, you can find packages of two-sided fabric adhesive sheets. Some of these are iron-on, but for this project, using one that doesn't require ironing is better, as it's not a good idea to iron some bras. Peel off one side of the paper backing on the adhesive strip. That will reveal a sticky strip of adhesive. Carefully adhere the strip to the fabric, trying to get it smooth. The other side of the strip should still be backed with paper. Once you've got it backed, trim up the edges. Also, round off the corners so that they don't poke you later. Hold up your bra where the wire is sticking out. Push the wire all the way back in so that all you see is a hole. Try to cover the end of the wire up with a bit of fabric from the bra by moving it around until it's in a good place. Remove the paper backing from the other side of the adhesive. Place the strip sticky-side down over the hole. You can bend the strip over the edge of the bra for more security. Smooth it down, making sure it is stuck well, and you're done.


Cut a piece of tissue paper into a 24 by 14 inch (60.96 by 35.56 centimeters) rectangle. Fold in half so that the narrower end of the rectangle has the fold. Draw a horizontal line 1½ inches (3.81 centimeters) down from the fold. Draw a series of vertical lines, all the way up to your guideline. Cut along the cutting lines up towards the horizontal guideline. Unfold the rectangle. Start rolling the rectangle, from left to right. Twist the rolled up tissue paper tightly around the middle. Fold the rolled up tissue paper in half. Wrap some tape around the base of the loop to hold the tassel together. String the tassel onto a long piece of string.

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Position the rectangle so that the narrower end is facing you. Make sure that the folded edge is at the top of the rectangle, facing away from you. Use a pencil to draw the line, and a ruler to make the line as straight as possible. This is your guideline. You will be cutting up towards this line, but you won't be cutting past it. Draw lightly with the pencil so that you won't see the marks when you are done. Space them ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) apart. Again, use a pencil to draw the lines, and a ruler to make them straight. These will be your cutting lines. Do not cut past the guideline. Also, make sure that you are cutting through both layers of tissue paper at the same time. The rectangle will now have a fringe on both of the narrow ends, like a giant set of whiskers. Straighten the strands as you roll. Leave the "whiskers" loose. The only part you should be twisting is the solid, uncut part. Keep the top part of the loop (the twisted part) at the top. Wrap the tape around the twisted part, about 1½ inches (3.81 centimeters) down from the top. Do not get any tape on the tassels. You can use clear tape, or patterned/washi tape. If you make enough tassels, you can make a garland to hand across your doorway. Typical tassel garlands are between 3 and 4 feet (0.91 and 1.22 meters) long.


Cut a pipe. Glue the pipes together. Cap each end. Lower the stick into the hole. Mark the stick. Push through the scum layer. Mark the stick again. Measure the marks.

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Start with a ten foot (3 m) PVC pipe. Using a saw or PVC cutter, separate it into a six inch (15.24 cm) section and a nine and a half foot (2.9 m) section. Pour PVC cement into an elbow joint. Attach the smaller pipe to the top of the larger pipe using the cement and joint. The pipe will stick out straight to the right or left in an “L” shape. PVC caps can be found at the hardware store where you got the pipes, cement, and cutters. Push the caps onto the pipes so they’re tight and resist water flow. Hold the scum stick with the smaller pipe at the bottom and facing out to the side in the “L” shape. Lower the pipe until you are holding it against the top layer of the septic tank waste without breaking through. Use a marker or piece of tape to indicate the scum’s upper point. When the pipe rests on top of the scum layer, place your mark where the pipe crosses from the ground to the very top of your tank. Force the stick down through the scum. You may need to turn the stick so that the pointed part breaks through. When you reach the bottom of the scum layer, you’ll feel the stick moving through water instead of the resistant fat and oil. Hold the stick against the bottom of the scum as you did the top of the scum, keeping the smaller pipe flat and to the side so the stick takes on the “L” shape. Again, use a marker or tape to indicate where the scum layer ends. Add your mark to where the pipe crosses the ground into the very top of the tank. Carefully remove the stick and rest it on a tarp. Use tape measure to figure out the distance between the two marks you made. This is the depth of the scum level. When this fat and oil layer is only three inches (7.62 cm) above the bottom of the outlet pipe, the tank must be pumped.


Cut a potato in half. Rub the cut potato edge over the rust or stain. Remove the potato and thoroughly clean the rust stain.

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Find a medium-sized potato and slice it in half. Coat the cut end with dish soap or environmentally friendly cleaning powder. The soap causes a chemical reaction that helps to remove the rust stain. Work the stain vigorously with the cut potato edge until the rust has been removed. Remember you need to apply a significant amount of force in order to effectively scrub away the rust.  If you need to reapply the potato, simply cut off the soapy edge and apply the dish soap to the new edge of the cut potato. A mixture of baking soda and water can be substituted for the dish soap if necessary. If the rust stain is small, you can simply leave the potato over the spot for a few hours. Use steel wool or a coarse cloth to make you have enough friction to remove the remaining stain. Give the tinware ample time to dry.


Cut a protein into cubes. Marinate the protein for a few hours. Chop the vegetables. Choose metal or wooden skewers. Soak wooden skewers for a half hour. Space the ingredients on the skewers.

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You can use any type of protein that you like for your kabobs, but beef, chicken, pork, lamb, and seafood are the most common options. Use a sharp knife to cut 3 ½ pounds (1.6 kg) of the protein you’re using into approximately 2-inch cubes (5-cm) that you can easily thread on a skewer.  When it comes to seafood, choose heartier fish, such as salmon, swordfish, or tuna. Shrimp also work well for kabobs. If you’re a vegetarian, you can omit the protein or substitute tofu for any type of meat. To ensure the most flavorful kabobs, you should create a marinade for the protein. Choose a marinade that complements the type of protein that you’re using, and allow the meat sit in it for to 2 to 5 hours.  A marinade doesn’t really penetrate the meat or protein, so there’s no need to marinate overnight. If you don’t want to marinate the protein, you can simply season the protein on all sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Make a basic marinade by mixing 1 cup (237 ml) of vegetable oil, ¾ cup (177 ml) of soy sauce, ½ cup (118 ml) of lemon juice, ¼ cup (59 ml) of Worcestershire sauce, ¼ cup (62 g) of mustard, 2 garlic cloves, and freshly ground black pepper.  You can also try a pineapple marinade, Jack Daniel’s marinade, Coke marinade, or your personal favorite marinade recipe. To ensure that the kabobs cook evenly, pair your protein with veggies that have the same cooking time. Onions, bell peppers, zucchini, grape tomatoes, and yellow squash are good options with most proteins. Use 3 to 4 whole vegetables, depending on their size, and cut them into chunks that are the same size as your protein. You can also use fruit, such as pineapple, peaches, and mangoes, for your kabobs. To assemble the kabobs, you’ll need some type of skewer. Metal skewers are reusable, but they can be difficult to clean and are often hot to the touch when they’re done cooking. Wooden skewers are inexpensive so you can throw them away when you’re done and not worry about cleanup. They are prone to charring, though. For a good sized...


Cut a second chain for the wind catch to dangle from. Choose an ornament to use as the wind catch. Hang the wind chime using the key ring at the top of the chain.

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Hold the bottle up by the chain and note where the key ring sits inside. Measure from this point down to about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the bottom edge of the bottle. Cut a second piece of chain according to that length.  The wind catch is the little ornament that dangles from the bottom of the wind chime. If you used a nylon cord previously, you should use a second piece here. Extend the cord below the bottom edge of the bottle. A chunky necklace pendant will work just fine, but you can also use a wooden ornament instead. If you choose a wooden ornament, drill a hole into the top, then add a hook or eye screw. Alternatively, you can repeat the process to add a smaller bottle to the bottom of the first one. This will give you a stacked wind chime. You can hang it outside where the wind will catch it, but if you want to use it for purely decorative purposes, hang it indoors instead.


Cut a section of the plant. Squeeze or smash until water comes out. Catch water in a container.

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The moist, pulpy center of stems, leaves, and stalks contain water, so you can either slice off part of the plant to work with or make a notch in a stalk at the base of the joint. A small pocket knife works best for cutting into a plant because you can be more precise, and avoid cutting any more than is necessary. With some plants, moisture may flow from it as soon as you cut it. However, some species require that you squeeze or press the leaves or stems to get the water to flow. You’ll need to press on the moist pulp inside to access the liquid.   Sucking water directly from plant isn’t a good idea because the exterior of the leaves, stems, or stalks may contain bacteria, dirt, and other debris. Be careful if you’re trying to extract moisture from a cactus.They are a great source of water, but their prickly exterior can be hard on your hands if you need to squeeze out the liquid. It’s best to examine the liquid that comes out of the plant to ensure that it’s water and not potentially poisonous. Let the liquid fall into a bowl or cup so you can check its color and texture.  If the liquid that comes out of your plant has a milky color and a sap-like consistency, don’t drink it. It’s usually poisonous.  Keep in mind that a single leaf, stem, or stalk may not contain much water, so you may need to extract liquid from several pieces of the plant to get as much water as you'd like.


Cut a sheet of kraft paper that is the size of the framed canvas. Apply double sided tape to the stretchers. Attach the kraft paper.

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A dust cover is essentially a piece of paper, usually strong kraft paper, taped to the back of the canvas. This is a cheap and easy way to protect your canvas.  Make sure the sheet of kraft paper you buy is bigger or equal in size to the framed canvas. If the kraft paper curls after you cut it, flatten it under a heavy, flat object such as a book or glass pane.  Once the kraft paper is flat, you can now attach it to the canvas. Using an ATG tape gun, apply double sided tape to each stretcher bar 1/8 of an inch from the edge. Do this for all four sides, and try to keep the tape in a straight line. Place the kraft paper firmly on top of the stretchers, ensuring that each edge of the kraft paper lines up with the edge of each stretcher bar.  Press the edges firmly down. If there's excess paper, you can trim it with a knife or scissors. Now, you're ready to hang the canvas!


Cut a sheet of paper into a square. Fold the paper in half. Fold the upper right corner into a triangle. Fold the bottom right corner up to form a second triangle. Fold the bottom left corner up. Label the angles on your protractor. Use your pocket protractor. Place your protractor on the angle you are trying to measure.

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Get an 8 ½”x 11” sheet of paper to cut into a square.  Use a ruler to measure 8 ½ inches down the 11 inch side and make a mark at that point. Use the ruler to draw a straight line across the paper at the mark you made. Cut the paper on this line to end up with a piece of paper that is 8 ½ x 8 ½ inch square. Fold the left side of the paper over to the right side to make a crease in the middle of the paper. Then, unfold the piece of paper.  Align the edges of the paper exactly to make sure your fold is directly in the center of the paper. The accuracy of your angles depends on your folds being crisp and exact. Take the upper right corner and fold it down towards a low point on the crease you made in the middle of the paper. Fold the corner down so that it meets the crease in the middle of the paper.  The corner will be approximately ⅔ of the way down the center crease you made when you folded the paper in half This will form a triangle on the paper that has a 30° angle, a 60° angle, and a 90° angle. You will fold the entire top edge of the paper down to create a new tip in the upper left hand of the paper. Take the bottom right corner up towards the top edge of the first triangle. Fold until the right edge of the paper lines up with the creased edge of the first triangle. You will end up with a second 30°,60°,90° triangle. Take the bottom left corner and fold it up until the left side of the paper meets the edge of the first triangle the was originally the top edge of the paper. The two edges should line up together. Tuck the corner under the second 30°, 60°, 90° triangle you folded. The side of each different triangle makes a different angle that you should label. Put your paper down with the longest side pointing up.  There are two angles at the top of your protractor. The left side is a 15° angle, and the right side is a 30° angle. The left corner of your protractor has two angles. The angle on top is a 45° angle, and the angle on the bottom is a 30° angle. The right corner of your protractor is a 60° angle....


Cut a soap base into chunks that are easy to melt. Place the cut soap base into a heatproof pot or bowl. Heat and stir the soap constantly until it melts. Add tea, salt, and other ingredients to color the soap. Mix in essential oils and other ingredients to make your soap fragrant. Use oils and other ingredients to change the soap’s texture.

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Chop up about  1 lb (0.45 kg) of soap or glycerine into cubes 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) in size. These small pieces melt evenly so your finished batter is less likely to be chunky. Using small chunks also prevents the batter from burning while you stir it.  You can also try shredding the soap with a grater or vegetable peelers. Glycerine is a common base available online or at craft supply stores. It is made with lye like any bar of soap but doesn’t have any active lye in it, so it’s safe to touch. Choose white and clear-colored soaps if you plan on adding coloring later. Darker soaps aren’t as great for customizing, although you can still add fragrances and thickeners to them. The container you need depends on how you plan on melting the soap. The easiest way to do it is on a stovetop. Simply place the soap in a stainless steel pot, crockpot, or double boiler. If the stove isn’t an option, melt the soap in a microwave. If you use a microwave, choose a microwave-safe. Look for a label on the bottom of the container or on its packaging. Heat the soap on a stovetop or in your microwave to about 120 °F (49 °C). Move the melting soap around with a rubber spatula to help it melt. Don’t let it sit still for more than 30 seconds or else it may burn. Stir it until it reaches a smooth consistency.  If the soap batter looks thick and dry, mix a little bit of water into it. Add water gradually, stirring the batter to keep it at a liquid consistency. Many soap bases reach a good consistency within a couple of minutes. Depending on the base you use, you may need to keep stirring for 15 minutes or more to make the batter smooth. If you’re using a microwave, heat the soap for 30 seconds at a time. Give it a good stir to distribute the heat. Soap bases begin to burn around 140 °F (60 °C). Use a kitchen thermometer as needed to track the temperature. Fresh-brewed coffee and tea change the batter’s color but don’t often leave much of a smell in the finished product. Mix in some blended fruits or vegetables to give your soap a deep,...


Cut a square of aluminum foil. Wrap the foil around a skewer. Cut the heads off matchsticks. Push a match head into the foil tube. Crimp the end of the foil tube. Wrap the other end around a paper clip. Make fins (optional).

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A match rocket is simple to make: all you need is a few match heads, plus a piece of foil to wrap around them. You'll end up with a tiny rocket that shoots out smoke and hot air when lit, pushing itself up and away. To get started, cut out a foil square about 5 x 7 inches (13 x 18 cm) works well. There are two types of foil: normal and heavy-duty. Heavy duty foil makes a better seal, but it will weigh down your rocket if you use too much. Lay the skewer down along the long side of the foil. Roll the skewer along the foil to wrap a foil tube around it. Try to keep the foil tight against the skewer, and as even as you can. Pull out the skewer, leaving a hollow foil tube behind. You can buy wooden skewers at most grocery stores. If you don't have one, wrap a smaller piece of foil around a matchstick instead. Snip off the match heads with a pair of scissors. You only need one match head for each rocket.  Do this over a cloth or cloth-lined container so the match heads don't bounce away. Paper matches are a good option since they weigh less, but any type of match should work. Use the skewer to push a single match head into the foil tube. Stop once it's about ½ to 1 inch (1.25–2.5 cm) from the end.  If one end of the tube is more uneven or ragged than the other, put the match head near this end. You can put more match heads into the rocket if you want, as long as you leave that space in the end. Because the match heads won't all ignite at the same time, this doesn't increase the rocket power as much as you'd think. Crimp the end next to the match head closed with a pair of pliers. Repeat this from several angles, until the tube is as tightly closed as possible. If there are any holes in this end, smoke will escape and the rocket will not fly nearly as far. For extra insurance, fold this end over itself, as though it were a tube of toothpaste. Fold a tiny piece of foil and wrap it around this to stop it unrolling. Push the paper clip into the end of the tube that still has a hole. Wrap the foil around this object,...


Cut a vertical line behind the head from the top of the fish to the bottom. Score horizontally across the spine to the tail. Slice from the center of the spine to the fins, along the ribs. Peel the fillet upward as you cut through the meat. Remove the fillet from the fins and turn the fish over to repeat the process. Rinse and chill the fillets immediately until you’re ready to cook them.

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With a small, sharp knife, slice the fish through the skin just behind the head and past the side fin. The knife should reach the bones of the fish, but not cut through them. Do this on both sides of the fish, and then choose which side to start filleting. This vertical line will likely be somewhere near the gills, depending on the anatomy of the fish. Find the flounder backbone, which runs down the middle of the fish from the gills to the tail. Cut along this line, from the center of the gills to the tail. Follow the backbone while cutting. Remember that you should cut through the skin to the bone, but don’t press the knife through the bone. Insert the tip of the knife under the skin, along the backbone. Slice from the gill along the ribs to the tail. Continue cutting until the fillet is separated from the backbone, and leave the flesh attached on the outer edges of the carcass. You should be working from the center vertical line outward to the fin around the edge of the flounder’s body. While moving the knife, continue lifting the side of the fish that you’re cutting. Hold the meat of the fillet as you separate it from the bone, and peel it backward so that it’s only attached along the outer edges of the carcass. As you peel the fillet away from the carcass, you should be able to see the ribs and spine of the fish. If not, try cutting your fillet a little thicker next time. Cut along the outer edge of the carcass to remove the fillet. Then, turn the fish over and make the same incisions under the flesh and next to the backbone. Cut the fillets in the same manner on this side until you’ve made as many fillets as possible, which is usually 2-4. Run the fillets under a steady stream of cool, running water to clean them off before storing. Then, place the meat in an airtight container and store it in the refrigerator until you’re ready to cook the meat. If you’re planning to cook the fish at a later date, it’s best to freeze it and thaw it before cooking. There are quite a few ways to prepare flounder, such as...


Cut a7 in (18 cm) square sheet of patterned paper. Slide your photo into the frame.

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Patterned scrapbooking paper, wrapping paper, and magazine pages are all great choices here. This will fit 3 1⁄2 in (8.9 cm) photos. Re-size and cut your photo as needed. The easiest way to do this would be to slide one corner at a time into the corners on the front of your frame. If the frame loosens a bit, simple fold it back into place.


Cut about 1 inch (2.5 cm) more bias binding than you will need. Join the ends before you sew the rest of the bias binding. Pinch and mark the bias tape where the ends meet. Pin the marked areas in place. Sew a few stitches into the crease at each of the marks. Fold down the excess bias binding. Sew the rest of the bias binding as desired for your project.

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When you cut your bias binding for the project, make sure that you cut a little more than you will actually need to cover the edges. This will allow you to sew the edges together in a way that will hide the ends of the bias binding. For example, if your project calls for 20 inches (51 cm) of bias binding, then cut 21 inches (53 cm) to ensure that you will have enough to hide the ends. Make sure to sew the bias binding edges first. You need to sew the ends under the rest of the bias tape to hide them, so it is necessary to secure and fold over the ends before sewing any other parts of the binding. The ends of the bias binding will be raw, so it is important to hide these. With the right sides of the bias binding and fabric together, pinch the ends of the bias tape together to identify where they will meet. Use a piece of chalk to mark the areas where the right (front) sides of the bias binding meet. After you have marked the bias binding, place a pin on each end to hold the pieces together where you marked them. Make sure the pin goes through the ends of the bias tape and the fabric underneath it. To secure the bias binding together where you have marked it, use your sewing machine on the straight stitch setting to sew a few stitches into the crease up to the areas you have marked on each side of the bias binding. Do not sew across the bias binding pieces. Make two separate sets of stitches. Be careful not to sew through the pins and remove them as you sew. After the bias binding is secured at the ends, fold down the excess bias binding on the ends. Fold each end towards the rest of the bias binding and away from the stitches you just made. This will ensure that the bias binding will be hidden under the rest of your seams. After you finish securing the ends of the bias binding, sew the rest of the bias binding as desired for your project. You can either sew the bias binding single-sided, so that it will be hidden under one side of your project , or you can sew the bias binding double-sided so that half of the...


Cut according to the bird's weight and strength. Check your bird's feathers monthly, clipping when necessary. Check in with your veterinarian.

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A good wing trim will allow your bird to exercise the pectorals, or wing-flapping muscles, and will give it some coasting ability. Your bird shouldn't fall like a rock when it tries to fly, since landing on its chest can kill a heavier bird. Always trim less rather than more until you see how your bird adjusts. Heavier parrots like African Greys should be clipped less severely, while most cockatoos should be clipped more. Also decide on a day to be "Clipping Day," and mark it on your calendar each month. This should be the day you inspect the parrot’s feathers — they might not be long enough to clip. Then you would mark another date in the future to see (one week, two weeks ahead) if the parrot’s feathers are long enough. Make sure that you are doing the trim as you are supposed to. Your vet will be able to give you suggestions if he or she believes you haven’t mastered trimming your parrot’s wings.


Cut all connections to distribution blocks. Disconnect the brake pipes from the master cylinder. Remove the brake line from any mounting clips. Remove pipes from underneath the car. Cut the needed length from a roll of brake pipe. Install all appropriate fittings before taking the line underneath the car. Install the new brake pipe using the factory mounts and clips. Connect to the distribution blocks. Connect to the master cylinder. Fill with brake fluid and purge air from the system.

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Use a pair of side cutters to cut the line at the distribution block. This will allow you to put a socket on the fitting and remove it from the distribution block more effectively than with a wrench. If the fittings are stuck on, use penetrating oil to loosen them. The distribution blocks can be identified by the multiple brake lines running into them. They mounted near the front and rear of the vehicle and serve to distribute brake fluid from the main line to each of the wheels. There should be approximately four connections to the master cylinder (depending on make and model). These will need to be loosened by using a wrench or flare nut wrench. Be careful not to twist the lines or strip the connections. The steel brake lines are run along the underside of the car and mounted with plastic clips to hold them in place. You will need to remove the line without damaging these clips. The replacement line will need to fit back into the same clips. Once all of the connections are loose, you can pull the brake lines out from under the car. This will make it easier to measure out and cut the appropriate amount of brake line from your roll. Steel brake pipes can be bought in rolls. This means that you will have to measure the old brake line, straighten out the roll, and cut the appropriate length of line. Be sure to compare it to the old brake line before trying to hook it up. Remember that it’s not a straight shot from one end of the car to the other, and that you have to follow the same path as the old lines. Fittings to connect the line to your distribution blocks or master cylinder should be installed prior to taking the line under the car. There are different types of brake line fittings. Consult your service manual to know whether to use tapered pipe threading, inverted flare fittings, or compression fittings. The new brake line should be run from the master cylinder to the distribution blocks in the same way as the original brake line. That means you will need to follow the path of the original brake line and...


Cut all of your wood. Cut 2 of the 2x4s so that each is 21 inches (53.3 cm) long (these will be the ends of the frame). Build the frame. Using the drill and 2 ½ inch wood screws, screw the boards together by drilling from the outside of the 48-inch board into the end of the 21-inch board where both boards meet. Place your board top on top of the frame. Use 10 long drywall screws to attach the board top to the frame.  Countersink

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You will need six 2x4 pieces of wood to make one board. Use a mitre saw or a hand saw to cut the boards. Always use caution when using power tools. Don’t forget to factor in the saw’s blade width. If you are not familiar with using a mitre or hand saw, ask an employee at the lumberyard to cut your wood for you. Make sure you bring the correct measurements to the lumberyard. Cut 2 of the 2x4s so that each is 48 inches (121.9 cm) long (these will be the sides of the frame). Cut 2 of the 2x4s so that each is 16 inches (40.6 cm) long (these will be the legs that will be used later). Place the 21-inch boards in between the 48-inch boards. Use two screws for each corner. Drill your holes with a drill bit that is slightly smaller than your screws. This ensures that your wood won’t split when you drill the screws in, and allows the screws to go into the wood more easily. Again, before drilling in your screws, drill holes with a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the screws you will be using. Use 4 screws across the top, 4 screws across the bottom, and 2 on each side. the screws so that you can cover them with putty later on.


Cut along a natural muscle seam. Cut up along the second muscle seam. Cut the third seam.

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Place your ham cut-side up on your cutting board and examine the pink, cut surface. The ham should have three visible "seams" of connective tissue between the pink muscle. These are either white or reddish pink. Cut along one of these seams from the outer edge all the way to the center.  For best results, use a flexible meat carving knife with hollow ovals or scallops cut next to the blade edge. Some boneless hams contain significant amounts of ground meat reshaped into a ham, and may not have visible seams. In this case, carve through to the center from any point on the edge, then repeat with two more slices to divide it into three pieces. If a bone is present, cut in a close circle around it until you reach the second muscle seam. Cut outward along this seam to release the first stack of slices. The final seam will divide the remaining ham into two stacks of slices. Cut all the way around the bone in a tight circle to release them. Arrange slices on a serving platter or transfer directly to guests' plates. If the ham is large, cut the stack of slices in half before serving.


Cut along the second line with a pair of scissors. Fold the fabric under and pin it in place. Sew around the edges.

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After you have marked the fabric, cut along the seam allowance to remove the excess fabric. Make sure to cut right along the line you have marked, and not inside or outside of it. Cut as evenly as possible with the scissors. Next, you will need to secure the hem fabric under the dress using pins. Fold about ½” (1.3 cm) of the fabric under so that the raw edges of the dress are lined up with the first chalk line that you made along the hem. Pin the edges under all the way around the dress. After you have pinned the edges in place, you will need to sew around the edges of the fabric to secure the hem. Sew a straight stitch along the folded edge to secure the hem. Make sure that you sew through both layers of fabric to secure the raw edge of the fabric to the underside of the dress.  Remove the pins as you sew. After you finish sewing the hem, cut the excess threads and try on your new shortened dress!


Cut an 88 in (220 cm) ribbon into 2 equal lengths and seal the ends. Wrap a ribbon under the highest point of your arch. Step into your shoe and adjust the ribbons as needed. Mark the sides of the ribbon against the liner with a pencil. Step out of the shoe and center the ribbon inside the shoe. Sew the sides of the ribbon into place. Trim the ends at 45-degree angles, if desired.

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Choose a nylon or polyester satin ribbon that matches the satin outer layer of your shoe. Cut the ribbon into 2 equal lengths, each about 44 inches (110 cm) long, plus the width of your foot. Use a candle flame or a lighter to melt the ends of the ribbons to keep them from fraying.  Choose a shiny or matte ribbon that is between 7⁄8 to 1 inch (2.2 to 2.5 cm) wide. To seal the ribbons: light a candle or a lighter, then hold it need the cut end of the ribbon for a few seconds, or until the end melts and hardens. Take 1 of your ribbons and hold it by both ends, with the wrong/matte side facing you. Place your foot against the ribbon so that it fits against the highest point of your arch. Keeping the ribbon against your arch, slip your foot into your pointe shoe. Stand up, keeping your foot flat on the floor; do not stand in pointe. Move the ribbon forward and back until it feels comfortable. Note where the side edges of the ribbon are touching the liner. Mark the liner to either side of the ribbon with a pencil. You can do this step yourself or find someone to help you. Take the shoe off and place the ribbon back inside of the shoe. Make sure that the center of the ribbon is touching the inside sole. The side edges of the ribbon should be aligned with your pencil marks from the previous step. Make sure that the wrong/matte side of the ribbon is facing you. The right/shiny side should be touching the lining. Thread a strong needle with reinforced thread that matches the outer satin layer on your shoes. Use a whipstitch to secure the side edges of the ribbon to the lining of the shoe. Do not sew through the outer satin layer or the drawstring. You don't have to do this, but it will give your shoes a nice touch. If you decide to do this, however, make sure that you seal the ends with a lighter or candle flame.


Cut an X into each of the chestnuts. Soak the chestnuts in hot water for 1 minute. Fry the chestnuts for 15 minutes in a cast iron pan over medium-high heat. Wrap the chestnuts into a tea towel and let them cool for 10 minutes. Peel the chestnuts after 10 minutes.

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Use a sharp paring knife to cut an X mark into the round side of each of the chestnuts. Cut all the way through the shell and into the chestnut meat. This is known as scoring the chestnuts. Place the chestnuts into a large glass bowl and pour boiling hot water over them. You will need to completely cover the chestnuts with the water. Leave them to soak for 1 minute and then pour the chestnuts into a colander to drain them. Make sure to wear a pair of oven mitts when you do this since the bowl may be hot! Turn on a burner on your stove and place a cast iron pan onto it. Then, place the chestnuts onto the pan in a single layer. Let them cook for 15 minutes, stirring them every 2 to 3 minutes to prevent them from burning. If your skillet is not large enough to fit all of the chestnuts, then you will need to do this in 2 or 3 batches. After the chestnuts are done, pour them into an open tea towel on your counter. Then fold up the tea towel around the chestnuts like a parcel. Let the chestnuts sit in the tea towel for 10 minutes. Another option is to remove the pan from the heat, place a lid on the skillet, and let the chestnuts cool this way. Once the chestnuts have cooled, begin peeling away the shells using your fingers. Start by peeling the shells away from the chestnuts around the score marks. Remove the shells completely to get at the meat.  Don’t wait longer than 10 minutes to peel the chestnuts or it may be more difficult to remove them from their shells. It is bets to peel them while they are still warm. Cooked and peeled chestnuts will stay fresh in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.


Cut an aluminum can to about 2 1⁄2 in (6.4 cm) tall. Fold and crimp the cut rim with pliers. Push the bottom of the can out from the inside to flatten it. Punch two holes on opposite sides of the can 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the top. Place a tea light candle in the center of the can. Wrap the center of a 6–8 in (15–20 cm) long piece of the copper tubing around a pencil 2 or 3 times to make a coil. Insert the ends of the tubing through the holes in the can. Bend the ends of the tube with pliers to make 90-degree angles. Set the can in a large bowl of room temperature water with the tubing ends submerged. Fill the tubes with water. Light the candle.

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Use tin snips or shop scissors to make a smooth horizontal cut about 1/3 of the way up from its base and around the can’s circumference. Fold the rim on each piece of the can in on itself to eliminate its sharp edges. Take care not to cut yourself as you do so. Most soda cans have a circular base that curves into the interior of the can. Push this out by flattening it with your fingers or using the bottom of a small glass or jar to smooth it. You can use a paper punch for this, or you can make the holes with a nail and hammer. You will need a hole slightly larger than 1⁄8 inch (3.2 mm) in diameter. Crumple foil and place it under and around the candle to hold it in place. Tea light candles come in small tins, so the wax should not melt and spill into your aluminum can. The 1⁄8 inch (3.2 mm) tubing should bend easily around the pencil. You will need enough coiled tubing to stretch across the top of the can, plus about an extra 2 inches (5.1 cm) of straight tubing on each side. Center the coil over the wick of the candle. Try to have about the same length of straight tubing sticking out of each side of the can. Bend the straight sections of the tubing so that they go in opposite directions on each side of the can. Then, bend them again so that they reach below the base of the can. When you're done, you should have a coiled section of tubing in the middle over your candle that stretches downward into two opposite-facing "jets" on either side of the can. Your "boat" should float comfortably. If the tubing ends don't quite sit below the waterline, try weighing the can down slightly, but be careful not to sink it. The easiest way to do this is to place one end in the bowl of water and suck through the other like a straw. Alternately, you can hold your finger over one end and hold the open end under a running faucet. Over time, the water in the tubing will heat up and begin to boil. As it evaporates into steam, it will shoot out of the "jets" of the tubing, causing the entire can to spin in the bowl.