Spot test rubbing alcohol. Dab the stain with rubbing alcohol. Let the rubbing alcohol sit for several minutes. Dab at the stain.

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Rubbing alcohol runs the risk of staining your linoleum surface, so before applying rubbing alcohol on the stain, it's important to test it first on your linoleum. Add rubbing alcohol to a cotton ball, then dab the cotton ball on an inconspicuous area of your linoleum surface, such as in a corner. Wait about 10 minutes, then check on the area. If the linoleum has lightened considerably or has turned a different color, do not use the rubbing alcohol on the stain. Apply rubbing alcohol liberally to a clean cloth, then dab at the stain with the cloth so that the rubbing alcohol transfers to the stain. After dabbing the stain and coating it in rubbing alcohol, let the stain sit for several minutes to allow the rubbing alcohol to sink in and start dislodging the dye stain. After letting the rubbing alcohol soak in for a few minutes, start dabbing again at the hair dye stain with the damp cloth. Dab until the stain is completely removed or you are no longer lifting any more stain.


Spot test with a leather conditioner. Apply a thin layer of leather conditioner to the boot. Wipe the conditioner away after 12-24 hours. Use oil on oil impregnated boots.

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Buy a lanolin-based leather conditioner and spot test it on an inconspicuous place of your boot by dabbing it on with a cloth and rubbing it in. Leave it on the boot for a couple hours and then check. If the spot on your boot is only slightly darker, the conditioner is okay to use. If the spot is markedly darker or has turned the patch a different color, purchase and spot test a different leather conditioner. You should condition your boots at least every six months or when you notice that the leather is creasing, cracking or discoloring, as this can indicate that it is dry and needs conditioning. Add a small dollop of leather conditioner to a white terrycloth or chamois towel and gently rub the conditioner onto the surface of the boot. Apply the conditioner to the entire boot in a thin layer, and repeat on the other boot. Don’t use too much conditioner, as too much will clog the pores of the leather.  Leather conditioner adds moisture to leather, which often becomes dry over time especially if you are living in a dry or desert climate. It also helps to repair water damage, as water often saps moisture from the boot when it dries. It’s normal for the boots to appear a little darker after adding conditioner but they should lighten up after a few days. Don't use conditioner on suede, naked or nude finish leather, patent leather or microsuede. If you have exotic leather boots, such as alligator or snakeskin, use a conditioner formulated specifically for exotic leather. Let the boots sit for 12-24 hours and use a clean cloth to wipe away any excess conditioner. If your boots still seem dry, you can repeat the process by adding another thin layer of conditioner to your boots. If you have oil-impregnated boots, you may want to use a layer of oil after conditioning your boots. Add mink oil, specialized leather oil, mineral oil or neatsfoot oil to a clean cloth and apply it in the same way as you did with the conditioner. After 12-24 hours, wipe the oil off your boots. While the leather of oil-impregnated boots is...


Spray 1 window at a time with an automotive glass cleaner to wet it. Scrape the glass with a long-handled razor blade to remove raised areas. Wipe off the residue with a short-pile microfiber cloth. Knead glass cleaner into a bar of detailing clay. Apply glass cleaner on the glass for extra lubrication. Rub the clay over the glass surface to remove fine particles. Clean the glass off with your microfiber towel and more glass cleaner.

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Look for a glass cleaner that’s specifically made for vehicles from an auto supply shop. Hold the spray bottle about 1 foot (30 cm) from the glass you’re cleaning and pull the trigger to spread the cleaner. Rub the cleaner into the glass with your hand so it spreads across the entire surface evenly.  Only work on 1 window at a time, or else you may leave streaks or residue on the glass if the cleaner dries. Avoid using standard household glass cleaner since it usually contains ammonia and could affect any tinting or special coatings you have on your vehicle’s glass. Set the blade against the top of the window so it points down and forms a 45-degree angle with the glass. Apply light pressure as you push the razor blade down using short strokes. The razor blade will scrape off any residue that’s sticking up from the glass, such as stuck-on dirt or dead bugs. Wipe the razor blade clean with a microfiber towel every few minutes to remove buildup.  You can buy long-handled razor blades from an auto supply or hardware store. Be careful while working with a razor blade so you don’t accidentally cut yourself. Short-pile microfiber cloths are less dense so they’re able to clean smooth surfaces easier. Rub the cloth over the area that you just scraped with the razor blade using long back and forth strokes. Work from the top of the glass down toward the bottom so you don’t spread dirt around as easily. Avoid wiping the glass in a circular motion while you’re cleaning it since you could leave streaks and make it difficult to see. Detailing clay lifts up residue and debris that’s stuck in your glass so it has a deeper clean. Spray the bar of detailing clay with 2–3 squirts of the glass cleaner and flatten it in your fingers. Continue working the clay until it feels soft and pliable so you can easily flatten it by hand.  You can buy detailing clay from an auto supply store or online. If you drop the clay on the ground, it will gather dirt and could scratch glass even more. Throw clay away if you accidentally drop it. Even...


Spray WD-40 over the Plasti Dip. Rub the WD-40 into the Plasti Dip with a microfiber cloth. Wipe off the Plasti Dip after 5 minutes. Scrape off stubborn Plasti Dip with a plastic razor. Wash the car with soap and water.

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WD-40 makes quick work of Plasti Dip and can be found at any general store or auto supply shop. If it doesn’t come in a spray bottle, put it in one to make applying it easier. Spray the Plasti Dip generously to soak it. A commercial dip or goo dissolver may be used instead of WD-40. They can be found at most  general stores. Paper towels are another option you may use. Gently move the cloth or towel in circles over the Plasti Dip to help work in the WD-40. Leave the WD-40 alone for 5 minutes, then start wiping off the Plasti Dip with a microfiber cloth. It should come off without much effort. Scrub gently to avoid scratching the vehicle. Place the razor over any leftover Plasti Dip. Put light pressure on the Plasti Dip to avoid scratching the surface underneath it. Slowly move the razor down and under the Plasti Dip to sweep it away. A plastic razor is less likely to scratch the vehicle, so it’s better than using a metal razor or paint scraper. Thoroughly wash the car to remove the WD-40 as well as any remaining Plasti Dip. If you notice small pieces of Plasti Dip, scrub them off with a cloth dampened in warm water. Make sure all the WD-40 is removed from the car to avoid causing damage. Be careful not to let it sit on sensitive parts such as the brakes.


Spray a hidden section inside the shoe to test colorfastness. Hold the can 6-12 inches (about 15-30.5cm) from the shoes. Sweep the can in a back and forth motion. Let the shoes dry for two or three minutes. Apply a second and third coat if you want. Let the shoes dry for a day.

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Scotchgard can cause colors to fade in some fabrics. To check this, spray a small spot inside the shoes and rub the spot with a white rag. If the color comes off the shoes, it’s best not to use Scotchgard on them.  Most fabrics that can be washed can be protected with Scotchgard. If the shoes have the “X” symbol, like some clothing, don’t use Scotchgard. For suede shoes, be sure you are using Scotchgard Suede & Nubuck Protector. Don’t use Scotchgard on leather shoes. Spray the shoes with a light mist that covers them completely. If you hold the can too close, it will saturate the shoes and not cover them well. Holding the can beyond 12 inches (30.5cm) will make the spray miss the shoes too much. Press the button that releases the spray. As you mist the shoes with the Scotchgard, move the can in a sweeping motion. Make sure that you cover the shoes completely, except for the rubber soles. After spraying the shoes, let them sit right side up for a few minutes. This gives the Scotchgard time to soak into the shoes and dry completely. Set a fan blowing on the shoes to speed the drying time. One coat of Scotchgard may be enough to give your shoes plenty of protection. On the other hand, if you really want total waterproofing, apply one or two more coats of Scotchgard. You don’t want to totally saturate the shoes, but spray them again as you did the first time. To make sure that the protectant has fully set into the shoes, leave them to dry for a full day. Since fumes from the Scotchgard may linger, leave the shoes outside or in your garage. Make sure they won’t get wet, though.


Spray a medium skillet with cooking spray. Whisk together the eggs, milk, salt, and pepper. Pour the egg mixture into the skillet. Turn and fold the eggs until thoroughly cooked. Serve immediately.

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Set the skillet on the stove and heat it for several minutes over medium heat. Note that you can use 2 tsp (10 ml) of butter or margarine instead of the cooking spray, if desired, but the cooking spray affects the flavor less and makes the dish somewhat healthier. Crack the eggs into a separate bowl and add the milk, salt, and pepper. Beat well by hand with a wire whisk until all of the ingredients have been combine and the mixture appears mildly frothy.  The eggs are the only essential ingredient, so you can choose to opt out of the milk, salt, and pepper if desired. Milk creates a richer taste, however.     If you beat the eggs lightly, the final result will be fairly dense. If you beat the eggs significantly, though, you will beat more air into the mixture and your scrambled eggs will have a lighter texture as a result.    Add the beaten eggs to the hot skillet and allow them to cook until they begin to set around the edges.  Cook the eggs on medium heat to avoid overcooking or burning them.     Note that the eggs should still look liquidy along the top surface when you prepare to turn them for the first time.    Once the eggs begin to set around the edges, use a heat-resistant spatula to carefully pull the eggs toward you, flipping them over so that the bottom portion comes to the top while the liquid underside gets swapped to the bottom.  Pull the eggs toward you by scraping the spatula beneath them from the side opposite you and dragging the spatula toward you so that the eggs are flipped over.     Periodically flip the eggs as they cook, resting 20 seconds or so in between each flip. Do not move the eggs around too frequently. Otherwise, they may end up breaking into pieces that are too small and difficult to eat.     Keep turning the eggs in the pan until all traces of liquid have been removed.    Scrambled eggs are difficult to store and reheat, so you should enjoy them as soon as they finish cooking.


Spray any debris from the filter with a garden hose. Allow the filter to dry out completely. Shake the filter or use an air compressor to remove loose particles. Look for additional debris that needs to be removed from the filter.

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Set your hose to a gentle spray and wash off any large debris that you can see on it. Spray the filter right away before it dries after you have removed it from the system.  When spraying down the filter, be sure to get in between the pleats on the filter. This is where a lot of large debris can collect.  Drying will allow the collected debris to set into the filter media, making it more difficult to remove later. Once you no longer see any debris on the filter, lay it out to dry. Put it in a sunny spot and let it sit until it’s totally dry.  The amount of time it takes for the filter to dry completely will vary. It could take an hour or two in hot weather or several days if the weather is cool or humid. Preferably put the filter in bright sunshine, which will be most effective at killing algae and bacteria that is in it. Hold the filter with one hand and clean the surface with your other hand. This can be done by tapping the filter on the ground, brushing it with a stiff brush, or using compressed air to blow debris out of the creases of the filter. Even simply tapping or brushing the filter after it has dried in the sun will reduce the amount of organic contaminants that need to be broken down in the chemical soak. If spraying down the filter and using air or shaking to get rid of debris doesn't get the filter totally clean, you may need to use additional cleaning methods. However, if the filter is visually very clean at this point, it can be put back in the filtration system.  If the filter looks oily, which can occur due to the use of sunscreen, then a chemical cleaner should be used. If there are mineral deposits on the filter, which can appear as dusty, white areas, then an acid bath should be used to dissolve them.


Spray castor oil and dish soap in areas where skunks den or forage. Scare skunks away with lights or noisemakers. Try a motion-activated sprinkler to discourage skunks. Use predator urine repellents in areas where skunks live or gather. Place scented soaps or deodorizers around your garden.

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Skunks dislike the smell of castor oil. You can easily make a safe and natural skunk deterrent by mixing 8 fluid ounces (240 mL) of castor oil, 8 fluid ounces (240 mL) of liquid dish detergent, and 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water and putting the mixture in a spray bottle or canister. Spray the mixture around a suspected skunk den or any areas where you think skunks are messing around on your property. You can also use capsaicin oil, or hot pepper spray, to deter skunks. However, these sprays can be very irritating to both humans and animals, so take care when using them. Bright, flashing lights are alarming to skunks, and can be an effective deterrent in dens and garden areas and around animal enclosures or trash cans. Look for a light-based animal deterrent and set it up in an area where skunks are active. You can also use repellents that emit loud or high-pitched noises, or even use something like a portable radio to play noise that skunks will find unpleasant. You can buy light and sound-based outdoor animal deterrents online or at most home or garden supply stores. Sprinklers can startle skunks and scare them away. Place a motion-activated sprinkler in an area where skunks are likely to cause trouble, such as next to your vegetable garden. If you happen to catch a skunk in action, you can also try blasting it with a garden hose from a safe distance. Urine-based repellents, usually made with the urine of dogs or coyotes, can also be effective at scaring away skunks. You can buy these repellents online or at a home or garden supply store or sporting goods store. Spray them around suspected dens or in other areas where you want to keep skunks away.  If you choose to use a urine-based repellent, research the company that produces it to make sure they use humane practices when collecting the urine. You may also be able to scare skunks away by sprinkling a little used kitty litter in problem areas, such as around the entrances to dens. Many smells that are designed to appeal to humans are unpleasant to skunks. One...


Spray down vents with an AC cleaner. Place a container of dryer sheets in the car. Treat your car with white vinegar. Use a pet deodorizer on pet smells. Sprinkle baking soda on seats and carpeting. Leave a container of coffee beans in your car.

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With time, a car's air conditioner vents build up dirt and debris that can cause an unpleasant smell in your car. Make sure to treat the AC while deodorizing your car. Buy an AC cleaner made for cars at a local hardware store. Spritz down the vents of the car's air conditioning system with the cleaner. This will help reduce bad smells. Simply fill a container with dryer sheets and place it somewhere in your car. Dryer sheets can help absorb unwanted odor and also give off a pleasant scent. After cleaning your car, placing dryer sheets in the car can help eliminate lingering odors. Mix equal parts white vinegar and water. Spritz this mixture onto any areas in your car that are producing a bad smell. Saturate the area and let the vinegar absorb into the car. Then, use a scrub brush or other cleaning tool to scrub out the vinegar mixture. This should leave the car smelling significantly fresher. Pet deodorizers are made with specific enzymes that are designed to lift and eliminate pet odors. Brands of pet deodorizers vary in how they are used, but most of them are spritzed onto a stain and left to sit for a specific time period. You then rinse the pet deodorizer out. Make sure to test any pet deodorizer you're using on a small, unnoticeable area in your car first to make sure it doesn't cause a stain or damage your car. Baking soda can work for a wide variety odors as it naturally lifts scents. All you have to do is sprinkle baking soda over areas in your car that smell. Let the baking soda sit for a few hours or overnight and then vacuum it up. Place seven ounces of coffee beans in a container and leave the container in your car. If you let the beans sit in your car, they should absorb some odor. You can also use coffee grounds, but these may spill and cause mess.


Spray insecticide on areas that you can’t clean or wash. Dust boric acid on areas that are harder to reach. Use hormone-based glue traps for the most stubborn infestations.

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Look for an insecticide product that lists carpet beetles on its label. Follow it’s directions carefully to apply it to any fabrics that you can’t clean another way. Avoid spraying it all over the house—insecticide should be used as a spot treatment only.  Limit your sprays to the places that collect lint, like under or around the edges of carpets or rugs, closet walls, shelving where fabrics are stored, and cracks and crevices. Don’t spray clothing or bedding. Remember to wear gloves and protective clothing when applying insecticide. Leave the area while the insecticide disperses in the air and wash your hands afterwards. If you’re having trouble getting into some infested areas, such as attics or wall voids, sprinkle them evenly with boric acid. You can also make boric acid into a spray by mixing 1 tablespoon (4.2 g) of boric acid with 2 cups (473 mL) of hot water. Stir it until the powder dissolves, then use a plastic spray bottle to mist it over hard-to-reach crevices. Boric acid has a bleaching effect, so avoid using it on dark materials. If your infestation is serious, place sticky traps throughout your home to attract and catch beetles and prevent further problems. Put traps around entry points like windows, doors, or crevices and in confined areas where the beetles are particularly bad.  Hormone- or pheromone-based traps are specific to the kind of carpet beetle species you have. You can also use sticky traps without a hormone to catch beetles, particularly ones flying through the windows. Check the traps 1-2 times a week. You can buy traps from pest control or pesticide supply stores, or online.


Spray or pour on a stain removal pre-treatment product. Soak the clothing for 30 minutes. Repeat the process as needed.

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Spray a stain removal product directly onto the stain, or pour a bit of detergent directly onto the stain. Either way, this will help to loosen the stain. Make sure that the stain remover or detergent completely covers the stain. Leave the clothing in the bucket to soak for 30 minutes. You don't need to agitate the items or do anything else during this time. Make sure to place the bucket somewhere out of the reach of children and pets. If the stains are still visible, repeat the process. Keep repeating this process until the stains are completely gone. This could take a few times depending on the severity of the stain.


Spray or roll a thin coat of contact adhesive on the metal and door. Hold the sheet metal about halfway up with your fingers against the sticky surface. Bond the whole surface.

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Apply contact adhesive to both surfaces to be joined.  If you made reference lines on the door, keep the adhesive within those lines. Do not join the two pieces at this time. Allow the adhesive to set for about 10 minutes or until your finger barely sticks to the coated surface. Your fingers will act as “spacers” as you line up the bottom and the right or left edge with the pencil reference lines.  Bond only a small portion of the two surfaces together to make sure the metal is lined up properly. Your fingers will keep the rest of the metal from contacting the door at this time and will allow for readjustment. Once you bond more than half the surface, it’s there for good. Once you feel the metal is properly lined up, slowly move your fingers up the length of the metal and bond the surfaces together.  Press the pieces together for a solid bond. Allow them to set for a couple of hours before using.


Spray paint a pumpkin if you want to change its color. Use adhesive stencils Scrape designs into spray painted pumpkins if you want a unique look. Use glow-in-the-dark over a spray painted pumpkin for a colorful effect. Paint designs directly onto your pumpkin.

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Wipe the pumpkin with a damp cloth, then let it dry. Take the pumpkin outside and hold it by its stem. Apply a light even coat of spray paint, let the paint dry 15 to 20 minutes, then apply a second coat. Wait 24 hours before displaying the pumpkin.  Read the label on the spray paint to find out how far from the surface you should hold the can. In most cases it is 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm). Turn a triangular pumpkin into a candy corn by painting the bottom orange, the middle yellow, and the top white.  Create a color-blocked pumpkin by masking off half of it with painter's tape. Paint the pumpkin as desired, let it dry, then peel the tape off. to create a simple design. Wipe the pumpkin down with a damp cloth first, then let it dry. Apply an adhesive stencil to the pumpkin, then paint the stencil with spray paint. Let the paint dry, then apply a second coat. Let the paint dry completely, then remove the stencil.  If you don't want to use spray paint, use acrylic craft paint instead. You can use regular stencils or reverse stencils. You can even make your own using contact paper or adhesive shelf liner. For a more intricate design, pin a paper doily to the pumpkin, then spray paint it. Remove the pins and doily before the paint dries. Coat a real pumpkin (not a fake craft pumpkin) with black spray paint. Let the paint dry, then scrape designs into it using a spoon or fork handle. You can create any sort of design you want. For example:  Jack-o-Lantern faces Geometric patterns Flourishes and scrolls Spooky messages Paint your pumpkin with white, black, purple, or dark blue spray paint first. Let the paint dry, then paint designs onto it using glow-in-the-dark paint.  If you will be using a black light on your porch, consider using UV or black light paint instead. You can find it in craft stores around Halloween. You can use acrylic craft paint or dimensional/puffy paint. Be aware that the latter takes much longer to dry. You can do this on a bare pumpkin, or you can spray paint the pumpkin a different color...


Spray paint the shoes with green glitter paint. Cut a buckle shape out of cardboard. Paint the buckle gold. Cut out a strip of green construction paper. Weave the construction paper into the buckle. Tape the buckle to your shoes.

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Look for black slip-on shoes without laces. Spray paint the shoes using acrylic craft paint in green glitter or metallic green.  It is an option to leave the shoes black. Black shoes with a buckle can have a traditional leprechaun appearance, but painting the shoes green can add a bit of flair to your costume. If you do not have an old pair of shoes you are willing to paint, check out some nearby thrift stores for a pair that might work. Alternatively, apply green glitter with Mod Podge. If you cannot find green spray paint, apply Mod Podge or another type of craft adhesive to the shoes and sprinkle a coating of green glitter over it. Trace a rectangle onto a piece of cardboard and cut it out using a craft blade. Trace and cut two smaller rectangles out of this larger rectangle to form the shape of a buckle.  The final shape of your buckle should be a rectangular frame with one rectangle cut out of the top and a second cut out of the bottom. There should be a cardboard bar separating the two final rectangular cut-outs. Cut out two of these buckle-shaped pieces of cardboard. You will need one for each shoe. Each buckle should be about 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide and 4 inches (10 cm) tall. Use acrylic craft paint or spray paint to color this piece of cardboard gold. The strip should be skinny enough to fit through the rectangular cut-outs of your cardboard buckle. The length of each strip should be about 6 or 7 inches (15.24 or 17.78 cm). You will need two strips (one for each buckle and each shoe). The construction paper strip should go under the outer frame, over the middle bar, and under the outer frame again. Center the cardboard buckle in the middle of your strip. The strip of paper should run vertically, and the buckle should be taped to the shoe so that the buckle lies at the front top with the paper strip standing just above it, as though it were the tongue of the shoe. Use heavy, durable tape so that the paper buckle stays securely in place.


Spray peonies with water for an immediate solution. Spray the peonies with insecticide for a more long-lasting solution. Treat your peony bushes with a natural ant repellant to avoid using insecticide. Prevent the ants from climbing the plant's stem using a homemade ant trap. Complement your peony plantings with ant-repellant plants.

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To temporarily get rid of the appearance of an ant infestation, spray the peony bushes with a strong stream of water. This will kill the ants on the bushes, but won’t permanently stop more ants from getting on your peonies. Find an insecticidal soap spray, and make sure the manufacturer specifically states that the product is effective against ants. Apply the insecticide according to the manufacturer's directions, usually 2-3 times a week for 2 weeks. This method will not generally be acceptable if you are committed to gardening organically or do not want to harm the beneficial insects that aid the plants in pollination. Mix 2 to 3 tablespoons (30 to 44 mL) of peppermint oil with 1 US quart (0.95 L) of water in a spray bottle to create a natural deterrent. Spray the mixture on the stems of the peonies and around the bushes to keep ants away. In the place of peppermint oil, you can also use 2 to 3 tablespoons (30 to 44 mL) cayenne pepper or minced garlic. Mix one of these with 1 US quart (0.95 L) water and spray your peony bushes with the solution. Or try a 1 part apple cider vinegar, 1 part water solution. If keeping the ants off the peonies at all times is your goal, you can make a simple ant trap using paper and petroleum jelly. Cut a circle with about 6 inches (15 cm) wide out of a piece of paper. Make a straight cut from the outer edge to the center of the circle, and then cut out a small circle at the center of the paper circle. Smear one side of the paper circle with petroleum jelly. Then, place the circle around the stem of your peony plant, with the plant's stem at the center of the circle.  If the petroleum jelly side is facing up, any ants trying to climb the plant will get stuck in it. Another way you can discourage ants from getting on your peonies is by planting ant-repellant plants nearby. Some common plants that tend to repel ants are geraniums, mint, garlic, and calendula.


Spray residue remover. Use a stripe eliminator. Wipe down with a rag.

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Whether you peel the decal off or scrape it off, it is likely to leave behind adhesive residue. Adhesive residue removers are spray-on chemicals that are designed to break down adhesive reside and can be found at any home improvement store. You can also use a citrus-based glass cleaner.  After you have applied the chemicals to the residue, wait five minutes and then try to wipe away the adhesive with a paper towel. Both options are non-toxic but you should still avoid direct contact with skin. If you are dealing with a particularly large decal or have difficulty removing spraying off the residue, you may want to invest in a stripe eliminator. This is a smooth rubber wheel that attaches to any power drill and can be used to remove adhesive. A stripe eliminator attachment can be found at any home improvement store for roughly $20. Remove any chemicals or remaining reside with a lint-free cloth. Dab the area gently to remove all liquids without leaving streaks.


Spray spiders with an aerosol pesticide. Squash it. Hunt Them.

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If you see a black widow on the loose, try to spray it with a pesticide first.   This is better than trying to smash or stomp on it because the spiders may run at you if they sense an immediate threat. While black widows aren't especially aggressive, they often bite when they feel injury or death is otherwise unavoidable. If you don't have a pesticide handy, grab a shoe or other flat object and kill the spider the old-fashioned way.  Keep in mind that black widows are quick, and they might run toward you instead of away from you (like most other spiders do). A bit after sunset, say 9 or 10 pm in the summer time, search for widows in the places you know they are making a home. This is evident by the tough webs they make. Arm yourself with a flashlight, spray glue or hairspray (some sticky aerosol), long pants, shoes,etc. look for them about a foot off of the ground.  When you see one, spray it.  This alone will kill the widows, reduce the numbers, and keep you from needing long term pesticides.


Spray the area with a squirrel repellent to repel squirrels. Spread human, dog, or cat hair around the garden. Plant flowers squirrels don't like around the border of your garden. Rub hot sauce on outdoor redwood furniture to deter chewing. Consider getting a dog or an indoor/outdoor cat. Pick up tempting food from trees to discourage foraging. Add metal tree collars to keep the squirrels out of your trees.

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These are available commercially. They often use predator's urine in them. When squirrels smell the scent of the urine, they know to keep away so they don't become prey. Spritz the repellent around the border of your yard to keep squirrels out. You can find these at most garden stores, as well as online. Squirrels don't like the smell of these types of hair because they belong to animals they consider a threat. Cover the hair with a bit of soil so it doesn't blow away completely. You'll likely need to replace this hair once a year or so. Try flowers like marigolds and nasturtiums, as squirrels aren't fond of the scent. You can also try mustard (the plant) to deter squirrels.  Create a barrier with these flowers, and the squirrels won't want to pass through it. Mint is also an odor squirrels don't like. Redwood furniture will draw squirrels, as they like to chew on this type of wood. Use a rag to rub the hot sauce on the furniture legs. When the squirrels try to chew on it, they'll get a flavor they don't like and leave it alone. Having a dog in the yard will help deter squirrels from visiting too often. Of course, you don't want to leave your dog out all the time, but even having one around some of the time will help. An indoor/outdoor cat will also have squirrels thinking twice about visiting your yard. If you have acorn, nut, or berry bushes, rake them up as they fall. It's a hard job to keep up with it, but you're less likely to draw squirrels if you don't have food lying around for them to eat. Cut a thin piece of sheet metal with metal snips. Make it big enough to go around the tree and 3 feet (0.91 m) wide. Wrap it around the tree 6 feet (1.8 m) off the ground.   To attach the ring, use wire. Loop the wire into a metal spring on one side and twist it around itself to keep it in place on the spring. Wrap the wire around the metal collar on the tree and thread the end of the wire through the other side of the spring, pulling it taut against the collar. Twist the wire back on itself to hold it in place on...


Spray the areas with a weed killer.

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For any existing vegetation (grass and weeds) in the area where you want to lay your turf, start by spraying with Round-Up or a similar product to kill all of the vegetation in the area. Do this at least two weeks before you start your project to give it time to work and kill off all of the vegetation in the area. This will help to ensure that all of the plant material is dead down to the roots.


Spray the buffing solution onto your floor, if you’re using it. Attach a red buffing pad if you're spray buffing your floor. Work in 3 ft (0.91 m) by 3 ft (0.91 m) sections. Rotate your machine back and forth as you move across each section. Move backward as you work so you don’t step on the buffed sections. Hold the buffer over scratches and scuffs for a few extra seconds. Flip or change the buffing pad if it gets clogged or dirty. Follow spray buffing with a pass of dry buffing, for best results. Use a clean dust mop to remove any dust created by the buffing process.

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For best results, use a professional sprayer or a product that comes with a spray nozzle. Start in the far corner of the room and work your way toward the other side. Aim the spray 2–4 ft (61–122 cm) in front of the buffer in an area that’s about 6–8 in (15–20 cm) wide.  Use a buffing solution formulated for the type of floor material you have, such as wood, tile, or vinyl. If you don’t have a sprayer, you can use a mop to apply the solution. However, it won’t be as effective at distributing it. You can buy or rent a sprayer from most home improvement stores. Additionally, some buffing solutions come in a spray bottle. This pad is intended for use on a wet floor, so it will soak up some of the buffing solution. Follow the instructions for your buffer to attach it correctly.  Be sure to read all of the instructions that come with your buffer. It’s best to have an extra pad handy if you’re going to be buffing a large surface area. Although you’ll be able to use both sides of the pad, it can get clogged up or dirty as you work. If you’re spray buffing your floor, you’ll need both a red pad and a gray or beige pad, for best results. Your floor will look better if you do a dry buffing after your spray buffing. Start in the far corner of the room and work your way back toward the entrance. As you buff the floor, mentally separate it into small sections to make it easier to buff the entire surface area of the floor. Overlap your passes to ensure every bit of flooring gets buffed. Although the buffer is doing most of the work for you, rotating it will help you achieve a better result. Not only does it ensure the buffer covers all of the surface area, but it will also help you really work areas where there are scratches or scuffs. Your motion should swing back and forth like a pendulum. This helps you avoid stepping on the parts of the floor you’ve already buffed. You don’t want to step on the buffed areas because they will be very slippery. Also, you don’t want to mess up the finish. Walk slowly so you don’t...


Spray the screen with a hose. Wash the screen with the ammonia and water mixture. Wipe up any remaining dirt with a sponge.

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To begin cleaning the window screen, you'll want to rinse the screen by spraying it with a garden hose.  Spraying the screen will remove most of the surface dirt and dust.  Make sure you spray the entire screen before scrubbing it down with the cleaning solution.  Start at the top of the screen and work your way down, covering the entire screen with water. Set your hose to the most gentle setting it has to avoid damaging the screen. Flip the screen over to make sure you've sprayed both sides. After the screen has been rinsed, you can start washing it with the cleaning solution.  You'll want to use a soft bristle brush to gently scrub the screen with the cleaning solution, allowing you to break up and remove any troublesome  areas of grime or dirt.  Scrub the entire screen to make sure you've removed as much dirt as possible.  Try to use small, circular scrubbing motions. Scrub the screen gently.  Being too forceful can tear the screen. Rinse the brush off while you are a cleaning to avoid reapplying dirt to the screen. Wash both sides of the window screen. Scrubbing the screen with a brush and cleaning solution will have broken most of the dirt loose. You can remove leftover dirt and grime by wiping the screen down with a sponge.  The sponge will help soak up most of the dirt and excess cleaning solution, leaving the window screen clean and grime free.  Don't forget to wipe down the screen's frame. Now is a good time to check for any areas that you may have missed. Wipe down both sides of the screen.


Spray the stovetop with degreaser. Allow the degreaser to sit for the recommended amount of time. Scrub the stovetop with a sponge or scouring pad. Remove stuck-on food from glass stovetops with a razor blade. Rinse and dry the stovetop.

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Wear old clothes, rubber gloves, and eye protection when using degreaser. Also, make sure the area is well ventilated. Choose a degreaser formulated for cleaning stovetops, and spray a liberal amount of it onto the stovetop, concentrating on the dirtiest parts.  This method works well for both glass and enamel stovetops. Don't forget to spray and clean the knobs or buttons and the face of the stove, too! The instructions on the package should note how long the product needs to soak in before scrubbing. This is an important step, as the degreaser will not work properly if you spray it then immediately begin wiping it away. It needs time to remove stubborn and stuck-on stains. Use small back and forth motions to scrub away leftover food and grease with a sponge. Rinse your sponge or scouring pad frequently with warm water as you clean. If your glass stovetop has food baked onto it that doesn't come off with the degreaser, scrape it away with a razor blade. Hold the blade at an angle and use short back-and-forth motions to chip it away. Take care not to cut yourself or gouge your stovetop. Do not use a razor blade on enamel stovetops. Use a clean, damp sponge or dishcloth to remove any degreaser or food residue from the stovetop. Then, use a microfiber towel to dry the stovetop.


Spray the underside of the fabric with adhesive. Avoid spraying the adhesive on anything besides the fabric. Position your lamp about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the edges of the fabric. Roll your shade onto the fabric. Fold over extra fabric at the end to create a seam. Fold over the edges and secure them with clothespins. Add a border or decorations to finalize your design.

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Lay the fabric out flat, face down. Apply a spray adhesive to the fabric, holding the can about 3 in (7.6 cm) away from the fabric. It is very important that you do this in a well-ventilated area, as spray adhesive can make you very ill if you breath in too much of it. Remember that spray adhesive is incredibly sticky (and permanent). If you accidentally spray it on anything else, you could have a mess on your hands! Cover the floor around your work area with newspaper and cover any furniture with a sheet or blanket. Carefully set your shade down on the fabric, about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the edge, top, and bottom.  If you're recovering a tapered shade, make sure you match the top of the shade to top of the fabric and the bottom of the shade to the bottom of the fabric. You don't want to put the fabric on upside down! The edges of the shade should be parallel to the edges of the fabric, too, no matter the shape of your shade. Move slowly, holding the fabric taut at the other end as you go. Make sure that the fabric is always flat. Otherwise, you'll get wrinkles in the fabric. Once you've rolled your shade all the way down the fabric, you'll have a bit of extra fabric along the vertical edge. Fold the extra fabric under so the edge is hidden and you have a straight seam. Use a hot glue gun to adhere the seam to the lamp shade. Once your fabric is attached to the shade, fold over the edges at the top and bottom and then secure them with clothespins. This will keep the fabric secure and will also encourage the adhesive to adhere. If you haven't sprayed the adhesive to the edges of the fabric, that's okay. Instead, use a hot glue gun to secure the edges to the inside of the lampshade. To really make your lampshade look store bought, add a border around the bottom edge of the lamp. Simply use a hot glue gun to stick a thicker piece of fabric along the top and bottom edges of your lamp. You can also add fringe, rickrack or other types of materials to cover the hems on the top and the bottom of the newly covered...


Spray the underside with non-stick cooking spray. Apply a lubricant. Try a rust protection product.

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This is a cheap, short-term solution that reduces buildup slightly, and makes it easier to scrape off. If you don't have a spray, rub on vegetable oil with a clean rag. WD40 or used motor oil have a similar effect, but they can drip off and damage your grass. Graphite, silicone, or Teflon sprays are all sold as lawn mower deck sprays (although the all-purpose product probably works just as well). Cover the entire underside of a clean, dry deck, then let dry as directed on label instructions. The effect is similar to cooking spray, but should last longer. If you are mowing a short, dry lawn, this may be enough to meet your needs. Check product reviews online before buying. Even products marketed for lawn mowers often due a poor job of long-term protection. If you tried a lubricant and were not satisfied with the result, check the ingredients on your rust protection product to make sure it isn't based on the same material. Follow label instructions for surface preparation and safety advice. No product has universally helpful reviews, and it's difficult to tell in advance which one will work for your mower model and lawn conditions. Here are a few possibilities:  A lanolin-based product such as Fluid Film leaves a non-drying coat. Some people swear by it, but others find that grass sticks even more to this coat. Test it on a small patch first.  Cold galvanization compound is a highly water resistant treatment for unpainted metal surfaces. This might be a good choice in wet climates, but dirt and debris may still wear it down much sooner than the label suggests.  Other heavy-duty rust protection products all have mixed reviews. POR-15 is one of the more popular options.


Spray the wood with an odor-removing spray. Remove dry soot with a vacuum hose. Scrub soot residue with a chemical sponge. Apply a degreaser to the wood. Sand away any remaining stains. Call a professional if you need more help.

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Look for a spray created specifically to deodorize the pervasive smell of smoke and mist it lightly over the surface. If possible, use a HEPA vacuum for a deeper clean. Hold the hose slightly above the wood and run it over the sooty areas. This will pick up much of the loose soot, as well as smaller particles that get into the air. You can also use a lambswool duster. Wipe straight across the surface of the wood and turn the sponge over when one side turns black. Carefully cut away blackened parts with a knife to expose new, clean layers to use. Dilute a small amount of degreaser in a large amount of water and use a pump-up sprayer or spray bottle to spray it evenly onto your wood. Wipe the surface with a nylon brush after you’ve applied the solution. Rinse the surface with water to clean off the product. You can also use old, clean window spray bottles or any other empty spray bottles you have around the house to apply the degreasing spray. Make sure to clean the bottle thoroughly with soap and water after you’ve finished spraying. Unfinished wood is more sensitive and easily stained by soot than finished wood. If you can’t remove the soot by other measures, sand the stain away with fine grit sandpaper.  Do not use sandpaper on finished wood, as it will remove the finish. Sandpaper typically doesn’t work on heavy stains that extend deeply into the grains. If your wood furniture still smells smoky or looks stained, call a professional furniture cleaner for a consultation.


Spray upholstery cleaner onto a soft-bristle brush. Work the cleaner into a lather on the spot. Wipe or blot the spot with a dry microfiber towel.

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Use an upholstery cleaner from an automotive shop to ensure it’s safe for interior use. Wet the end of a small detailing brush with your cleaning solution. This way, you have better control of where you’re applying the cleaner inside your vehicle.  Keep your vehicle doors open and work in a well-ventilated area while spraying the cleaner. Wear nitrile or latex gloves while working with your cleaner to avoid any skin irritation. Move the brush in small circles so the cleaner starts to form bubbles. Apply light pressure to the brush so the lather works deeper into the spots and penetrates the stain.  Be careful with the amount of pressure you add to the brush. If you use too much, you could damage the adhesive underneath the fabric.  This method should easily remove stains from dirt or regular wear and tear from any material. Hold the towel firmly against the area you cleaned to absorb the cleaner. Rub the towel in small circles around the stain to help lift it off of the surface. Check to see if the stain has lightened up, and if it’s still noticeable, repeat the cleaning method. Microfiber towels can be purchased at any home care or automotive care store.


Spray with hair spray and the rest is up to you! Finished.

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You can either leave your poofy pony as is, pin the ends underneath to create a smoother poof, or pin the ends into little ringlets for a dressier feel.


Spray with hairspray. Combine dish-washing soap, white vinegar, and water. Apply mixture with a cloth. Rub the polyester fabric together with your fingers. Rinse the garment.

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Using aerosol hairspray, apply a liberal amount on the ink to loosen the stain. This will bring the stain to the surface, which will make it easier to treat. Keep in mind when using hairspray that it can damage some fabrics and surfaces. This is why it's important to always check the care label before treating fabrics. Using a small bowl, mix together 1/2 teaspoon liquid dish-washing detergent, one tablespoon white vinegar, and one quart warm water to form a solution. Swirl together until the mixture is consistent throughout. Take a clean, white cloth and soak it in the mixture, and then generously apply to the stained area. Allow the stain to soak in the solution for about 30 minutes. Pressing the stained fabric together, rub the polyester until you see the stain begin to disappear. This will help the solution to lift the ink stain from your fabric and should remove any stain that remains. Rinse your clothing under cold running water. Do this until all vinegar and soap is rinsed out of the garment. Squeeze the garment occasionally to make sure it rinses completely. Leaving soap and vinegar in the garment can cause damage to the clothing.


Spray your carpet with a gentle vinegar cleaner before cleaning. Soak white clothes overnight with a denture cleaning tablet before washing normally. Soak colored clothes overnight with powdered detergent before washing normally. Use rubbing alcohol to remove small spots and difficult stains on fabric.

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Adding 2 tbsp of vinegar per every cup of warm water, put the mix in a spray bottle and spot spray the areas of carpet. The vinegar will break down the resin a bit, allowing the carpet cleaner to do it's job and suck up the rest of the nicotine stain. You can then use a sponge and, moving in a gentle circular motion, use warm water to lift the stain up. The only way to completely clean your carpet is to use a carpet cleaner, which you can rent at most hardware stores. This will bleach your clothes slightly, so do not do this with colored clothing. Fill a small bucket with hot water and 3-4 denture cleaning tablets and let your shirt soak overnight. Immediately wash it the next morning, then air-dry to see if the stain is removed. While bleaching agents are the easiest way to get rid of stains in clothing, they aren't an option with your colored fabrics. Use a bath of warm water and powdered detergent to loosen the stain overnight, then wash in the morning. Air dry to see if the stain is removed, as driers will set the stain in. Test this first, putting a bit of alcohol on an inconspicuous spot to see if the color fades. If it doesn't this is a great way to get rid of tough stains. Simply use a sponge to blot at the stains with rubbing alcohol, dabbing and wiping up the stain before putting the fabric in the washing machine.  This is best done right after soaking the clothes. Wring them out and search for any extra stains to fight. Use 91% isopropyl over 70% whenever possible, as it is stronger and will clean faster.


Spray your dirty laundry with essential oil. Use scented detergents or laundry soap. Make your own scented dryer sheets. Dry clothes thoroughly.

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Add a few drops of your favorite scented oil to a small spray bottle. Fill it with water and give it a few shakes. Mist your dirty clothes with it before adding them to the washer. Laundry detergents come in a variety of scents, so go with whichever one appeals to you most. However, be aware that scented varieties may leave behind more residue than non-scented detergents, which can lead to mildew in your machine. As an alternative, try using a laundry soap that is scented naturally, without additional chemicals, like Dr. Bonner’s Peppermint Laundry Soap. Choose a scrap piece of cotton to use (such as a piece of an old hand towel, sheet, or shirt). Give it a soak under running water so it’s totally wet. Then squeeze out the excess liquid. Give it about a half dozen drops of your prefered scented essential oil. Add it to your dryer’s load in the last ten minutes of the dry cycle to scent your clothes.  You should be able to reuse the sheet a few times without having to do anything more than soak and wring it before each use. Give it a sniff after each use to judge the scent’s strength. If it’s weak or undetectable, include it in your next wash cycle and then add more drops afterward. Alternatively, you could do the same with wool dryer balls if you already use those. Whether you air-dry them or toss them in the dryer, make sure they aren’t damp at all before folding them up and putting them away. Expect mildew to take advantage of any lingering moisture, no matter how small of an amount it might. Leave the clothes hanging or restart the dryer if they feel even the tiniest bit wet.


Spray your fig tree with neem oil to get rid of fig rust. Remove any leaves that show signs of having leaf blight. Cut off branches that have a pink and white coating on them.

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Fig rust is a fungus that causes the leaves on fig trees to turn yellow and fall off. If you see signs of fig rust on your tree, spray neem oil over the roots and leaves once a week until the leaves stop yellowing and dropping. Leaf blight is a fungus that affects fig trees. Symptoms of the fungus include moist yellow spots, small holes in the leaves, and webs of fungus underneath the leaves. If you see signs of leaf blight, remove the infected leaves and dispose of them in the trash so the fungus doesn't spread. This could be a sign that your fig tree is infected with a fungus called pink blight. It's important that you cut off infected branches so the fungus doesn't spread and kill your fig tree. You can help prevent pink blight by removing a third of the smaller branches on your tree so it gets better air circulation.


Spray your home with a pesticide. Vacuum every day.

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Natural treatments are not strong enough to kill fleas and ticks, so to end the infestation in your home you will have to apply a pesticide. Follow the pesticide manufacturer's instructions to treat your home, focusing on your carpets, soft furniture, and areas your pet frequents.  Use a pesticide with chemicals that kill adult fleas and ticks as well as their eggs. Be sure to read the safety instructions before you treat your house. Your children and pets should not be inside your house when it is sprayed. If you have a serious infestation, you might want to hire a fumigator to treat your house for you. In this case, your entire family won't be able to go into the house for a couple of days, since the strong chemicals used are toxic. As the pesticide takes action in your home, it will kill adult fleas and ticks, and continue killing them as more hatch. It may take several weeks before the fleas and ticks are completely gone.


Spray your shed with a hose. Wash the surface with a mixture of water and strong detergent. Apply paint thinner on a rag to flash rust. Sand the area around any holes with 80 to 120 grit sandpaper. Fill holes with auto body filler. Remove the rust on the shed. Wash the surface of your shed with detergent and water again.

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Use a strong spray attachment to remove leaves, dirt and other debris. It is important to clean it to see which areas of the shed have rust. Dirt will hold in moisture and increase rust, so take time when washing your shed. Use a sponge with a soft and abrasive side and then rinse well. This type of rust appears quickly after the metal surface is wet. It will damage the metal if not treated immediately. Wash it and apply some paint thinner with a rag to remove any flash rust spots. Use a putty knife to apply the auto body filler and swipe it until it is almost even with the shed's metal surface. Allow it to dry completely. There are a number of methods that can be used. Choose depending upon available materials and the quantity of rust.  Buy a wire brush attachment for your power drill, if you have rust patches, instead of rust all over the shed.     Employ a belt sander and orbital sander to remove rust on many surfaces and corners. Use fine grit sandpaper so that you do not damage the integrity of weakened surfaces. Most people who are repainting metal sheds will need to do some sanding. Although you can sand by hand, it will save time by using power tools.     Rent a hand held sandblaster for big jobs. This device uses compressed air to blow fine sand over the surface of the shed. It has the same effect of sanding, but is very efficient. Make sure to lay drop cloths over plants and objects. Sandblasting is extremely effective for metal scroll work and smaller, hard to reach surfaces, as well as long flat surfaces.     Use a combination of any of the above methods according to what is the most effective. Remember that areas with auto body filler will also need to be sanded to ensure the paint will stick to the surface.    This will remove sand and dirt particles that have accumulated. Allow it to dry completely before starting to paint. If it is a manageable size, dry it with some rags to decrease the likelihood of flash rust.


Spread a large towel across a flat surface. Roll your garment in the towel. Drain the excess water by picking up your rolled towel and twisting it as tightly as possible.

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The wringing technique is a fast and easy way to wring out the excess water from a wet article of clothing. You will use your towel to absorb all of the excess water, so choose a big, fluffy towel. Your garment should not overlap the towel at all. Lay your garment flat on top of the towel, making sure the entire garment is on the towel. Begin by placing your wet garment on the towel. Take one end of the towel, and roll it tightly with the garment inside. As you roll your garment in your towel, it should look like a log or sausage. The ends of the towel should be swirled, like a cinnamon roll. As you do this, the towel will absorb water from the wet garment. Once you have done this, unroll the towel and remove your garment – it should feel barely damp at this point.  Only wring out one garment at a time so that you can get the most excess water out of each garment. Once your towel has become very damp, switch towels. Your towel must be relatively dry to absorb the most amount of water. If you're drying small items, such as socks, spread them out on your towel so that you can wring them at the same time. As long as these small items aren't touching, it will be like wringing out one large piece of clothing.


Spread a light concealer to highlight key areas. Apply a light concealer to other areas of your face.

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Choose a concealer that's a shade or two lighter than your foundation. Dab the concealer beneath your eyes and along your nose, forming a triangular shape. You should also spread the concealer down the center of your nose and the center of your forehead. You could also use a lighter foundation instead of a concealer to highlight key areas of your face. If you'd like to sculpt your cheeks, dab a little of the light concealer below your cheekbones. The concealer should be in a diagonal line that points toward your mouth. You should also dab concealer on the center of your chin. To find the best place below your cheekbones for the concealer, feel the bones of your cheeks. Gradually feel below the cheekbones until you feel a hollow space. This is where you should place the diagonal line of concealer.


Spread a thin layer of a vacuum-safe odor remover on your carpet. Vaccum the carpet to remove the cleaner. Shampoo your carpets with a steam cleaner if the smell remains.

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These products typically come in a powder or pellet form that is applied directly to the carpet. Let the cleaner stay on the carpet for at least a half hour, but several hours will work better. This will help remove the smell because the product will absorb it.  There products are available at most big box, grocery, and home improvement stores. Sprinkle the product thinly across the whole surface of the carpet. You don't need a ton to absorb the smell. Once the cleaner has been on the carpet for at least a half hour, you can simply vacuum it up with your normal vacuum cleaner. Vacuum the surface several times to ensure the you remove all of the odor remover. Once you have vacuumed up the odor remover, clean out your vacuum filter and bag or container. Carpets and other hard-to-wash fabrics, like cloth furniture and curtains, should be washed using a wet vacuum. Steam cleaners work better than ordinary wet vacuums because the heat helps to open and expand the stitching of the fabric. This allows the detergent to sink in further and eliminate more of the skunk smell. An ordinary wet vacuum is still better than nothing, however. As a general rule, the carpet should be washed within 1 or 2 hours of initial contamination in order to prevent the smell from sinking in too deep.


Spread a towel onto a flat surface. Leave in overnight.

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Use an old cotton T-shirt instead if you have fragile hair. Sleep with the towel over your hair. Remove the towel in the morning and watch those gorgeous locks tumble down!


Spread at least 3 inches (7.6 cm) of bedding across the bottom of the cage. Avoid using bedding that can sicken or injure the mice. Put a water container in the cage for the mice to drink from. Place a food bowl in the cage. Add a house or hidey hole so the mice feel safe. Include lots of toys for your mice to play with.

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Purchase hay, shredded paper, or aspen shavings to spread in the cage. This will insulate the cage and the mice can use the bedding to create nests for sheltering. You also want enough bedding that your mice can burrow, which will means that they won't need their toys changed as often. Use a variety of materials so the mice can choose what they want to build their nests with. Sawdust, cedar shavings, and pine shavings can cause respiratory problems so leave these out of the cage. You should also avoid putting cotton wool or fluffy bedding into the cage. The mice can shred these and choke on them or become tangled. If you choose to use aspen shavings, ensure that the shavings are made from toxic-free wood. Attach a water bottle that has a drinking tube to the side of the cage. This will keep the water fresh because the tube will only dispense water when the mice want to drink. Check the water every day to ensure the mice always have access to fresh water.  While you can set a water bowl in the cage, some mice like to throw bedding into it, so you may need to change the water frequently. Water bowls may work for elderly mice, however, many mice will just dirty them, and it may be possible for mice to drown in them, so try to avoid water bowls as much as possible. Pour mouse food into a clean bowl and place it in the cage. Try to raise the bowl up off of the bedding so bedding material doesn't get into the food bowl. You may see the mice remove some of the food from the bowl and hide it in the bedding. This is normal behavior. Your mice will like somewhere to hide and feel secure even if they make their own nests in the cage. Set a small plastic domed house or hut in the cage so your mice can retreat and feel safe. Mice need to have at least two houses per mouse in case one mouse decides to become territorial, or a house becomes damaged. To prevent your mice from becoming bored or sedentary, put toys for your mice to chew on and a rodent wheel in the cage. Choose a large plastic rodent wheel since their feet can...


Spread carpenter's glue on the edges of your wood strips. Strip the canoe. Continue working your way up the sides. Remove the staples. Plane excess material at the ends of your canoe. Sand the canoe. Remove the canoe from the forms. Seal your strip canoe.

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Strip canoes are edge-glued which is what will eventually allow them to hold shape. While you'll attach the strips to the forms and end of the boat using staples, the glue between the strips will create the shape. You may want to wear gloves when applying glue and stripping the canoe. Start stapling the thin wooden strips directly to the ends and forms. Lay your first few strips across what will become the top of your canoe (this will be closest to the sawback). Alternate stapling strips on both sides. This will keep your boat even and centered. Make sure the strips are placed snugly next to one another. This allows the glued edges to come into contact and seal with the other strip, maintaining the canoe's shape. Keep stapling and placing the edge-glued strips across both sides. You will be working your way up to what will become the bottom of your canoe. If you need extra support while stapling the strips into place, use clamps. Once you've attached all your strips and allowed the glue to dry, carefully remove the staples from the ends and forms. Use a pair of pliers and pull straight out. Take care not to damage or dent the wood by twisting the staples as you pull them out. You may have an extra bit of wood sticking out at the ends. Use a block plane to trim off where the strips stick out. If you notice any very rough strips of wood that stand out, use the plane to make it even and flush with the canoe. Use a coarse sandpaper and sand with the grain of the wood. Go over the entire canoe using long even strokes. Make sure not to spend too long in one spot or you may develop a weak area in the canoe. Replace your sandpaper when you notice it starting to become dull. This will save you time and ensure that the canoe is evenly sanded. First, take out the drywall screws that are attached to the stations and sawback. You should be able to carefully pull the forms out of the canoe while turning the canoe out and off of the sawback. The plastic tape will make removing the forms easier. You will also want assistance...


Spread catnip around the house. Make a repellant spray. Set out other natural repellants.

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Catnip has been known to repel cockroaches. Place catnip in small bags or sachets and scatter them through your home. Make sure to place sachets up high, like on shelves, in high cabinets, and on high surfaces. Cockroaches congregate in high places. Place catnip in a small amount of water and let it simmer. Then, place this liquid in a spray bottle. Spray this catnip solution on baseboards, in cabinets, under sinks and refrigerators, and anywhere else you have seen roaches. Don’t use this spray if you have cats. There are a few substances cockroaches don’t like that help repel them. Bay leaves, cucumbers, and garlic have been found to help deter cockroaches from infesting a home. Place these items around your home to get rid of the cockroaches. Bay leaves and garlic won’t spoil easily, but cucumbers will. Make sure to place cucumbers in a place where you can remember and easily change them.


Spread glaze onto donuts. Allow to dry. Enjoy! Finished.

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Using an icing spatula, spread the glaze over each donut. In addition to spreading the glaze, you can drizzle just a little or dip the whole donut in the bowl.      Have the donut glaze set and dry until it hardens.


Spread glue across the surface of a paper plate. Place sugar cubes in a 7x7 square. Drizzle glue in a 6x6 square on top of your first layer. Add your 6x6 layer of sugar cubes by putting them on top of the glue. Continue this process until you've completed a pyramid.

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Pour white glue on top of your plate. Use a paintbrush to spread it evenly over the surface where you want to build your pyramid. This will serve as the base, so make sure that each section has some glue on it.  You can use a Styrofoam tray or wood surface as a base if you prefer. You'll need 140 cubes for a 7x7 pyramid. Start with a corner of your pyramid. Place your first sugar cube in the glue and press down lightly to set it in place. Continue placing cubes next to it in both directions until you have 7 cubes on each side. Fill in the rest of the open space in your square with sugar cubes. Use the gaps between cubes to determine where a 6x6 layer will rest on top of the first layer. Pour glue in a square along the edges of your 6x6 outline and then fill in the middle of the square with glue. Put at least one dollop of glue on each interior square to ensure that the upper layer remains in place. With your glue still wet, begin to place cubes in a 6x6 row on top of your first layer. Line each cube up so that it rests directly on top of a cube underneath it. Do not press down on your cubes as you place them. Save time by setting your layer out on a separate plate and transferring it over by pinching an entire row between two fingers. Place additional layers on top of your pyramid by moving in 1 cube at a time for each layer. Your next layer will be 5x5, then 4x4, and so on. Add a new layer of glue each time that you add a layer.  Do not leave cubes out of the middle of a layer or you'll risk breaking your pyramid. You can use glue and glitter, sand, or paint to cover your cube if you'd like.


Spread it on graham crackers for a sweet treat. Spoon it over a bowl of fresh berries for a healthy snack. Mix a spoonful of lemon curd into your favorite yogurt.

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The flavor of lemon curd marries very well with graham crackers, but you can also use plain crackers. Spread the curd on as thickly as you want and enjoy your afternoon snack.  Spread on fresh cream or cream cheese along with the lemon curd to add some richness to your snack. Add a few banana slices on top for another healthy dose of fruit. Fill a bowl with one or more of your favorite berries – strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, and raspberries are all delicious choices. Add a spoonful of lemon curd on top. Finish it off with a dollop of light whipped cream or cream cheese.  Toss in a handful of banana slices for good measure! Sprinkle chopped pecans or walnuts on top for added crunch. Use lemon curd to jazz up plain yogurt. You can also try mixing it into complementary yogurt flavors like strawberry or banana to create interesting flavor combinations. Toss a handful of granola on top and dig in. Rich, creamy Greek yogurt is an excellent candidate for lemon curd.


Spread lightly on buttered toast. Make cheese and Vegemite sandwiches. Pair Vegemite with eggs. Make knock-off Big Mac sauce. Make Vegemite pizza. Make a ham, lettuce, and tomato sandwich.

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If you often eat toast for breakfast but you get tired of the blandness of butter alone, or you want a salty alternative to jam, Vegemite is a great alternative. It complements the blandness of butter very well while adding a rich, salty taste. This is another Australian favorite that is great for packing in lunch or adding as a side to your dinner. Spread a thin layer of Vegemite on your bread and lay a slice of your favorite cheese on top of that. Cheddar cheese pairs well. Cream cheese and Parmesan are both good options too.  You can also make a grilled cheese in this same way. Be sure to butter the outside of the bread before grilling. Add variation to the sandwich by adding slices of tomato and avocado. Make scrambled eggs as you usually would. Toast and split an English muffin and spread a thin layer of Vegemite on the muffin. Place scrambled eggs on top and finish with a sprinkle of cheese. McDonald's Big Mac sandwich has long been a favorite of people worldwide, and it turns out that Vegemite can actually be a great component in homemade big mac sauce. The basic recipe is to combine 1 teaspoon grated onion, 1 1/2 tablespoons mayonnaise, 1 1/2 teaspoons sweet pickle relish, 1 teaspoon yellow mustard, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1/4 teaspoon Vegemite, and 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric. Mix well with a wooden spoon or whisk and refrigerate for a couple of hours to let it set. Spread 1 tablespoon of Vegemite on large pre-made pizza dough. Top with thinly sliced ham, chopped onion, and grated cheese, enough to cover the whole pizza. Pour 2 lightly beaten eggs over the whole pizza. Bake at 190°C (375°F) for 12-15 minutes, until egg is thoroughly cooked and pizza appears golden all over. With two pieces of white bread, lightly spread cream cheese on one piece and a thin spread of Vegemite on the other. Place ham, lettuce and tomato between the slices and complete the sandwich.


Spread non-stick cooking spray inside a resealable plastic container. Seal the dough in the container and store it in the fridge for up to 3 days. Pull the pizza dough out of the fridge 15 minutes before you want to use it. Punch down the dough after it warms up.

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Make sure the dough is thoroughly kneaded before storing it. Use baking spray to lightly coat the plastic container on the bottom and the sides so the dough doesn’t stick. You can shape the dough into balls before storing it if you want to, but it is not required. Place the dough inside the container and seal it with a lid or plastic wrap. While the dough is in the fridge, it will slowly rise and gain flavor. Make sure to use the fresh dough within 3 days, or else it won’t taste as good. The pizza dough will expand and rise the longer you leave it in the fridge. Take the lid off of the container and let the dough warm up before you cook it. This brings it back up to a workable temperature so you can stretch and knead it. Make a fist and push the dough down to reduce its size. This helps reshape the dough back into a ball and releases the gas bubbles formed from the yeast. Let the dough rest for another 15 minutes after you punch it.


Spread on a second and final coat of plaster. Use a float to get an even finish. Allow the plaster to set.

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The outer “skim” coat can also be around 3/8”, though you can get away with a layer as thin as 1/12”, or about 2mm. Apply this coat exactly as you did the first, making sure there are no obvious gaps or seams. You can smooth the skim coat with your trowel or trade it out for a float to take care of the finishing touches. Glide the float lightly over the surface of the wet plaster in all directions to work out any lumps, lines, holes, and inconsistencies in thickness. When you’re done, the wall should have a smooth, uniform appearance.  Take your time. Smoothing plaster is  a painstaking task, but one that is important to do correctly. Be careful not to polish the plaster too much. Eventually, it will begin to take on a glossy quality, which can weaken the hold of paint and wallpaper. Depending on various conditions, plaster can take anywhere from 2-5 days to fully harden. Avoid handling the fresh plaster as it dries. Any imperfections it picks up during this time will be visible in the finished wall.  Factors like the composition of your plaster, the temperature of your work area, and the amount of moisture in the air can all have an impact on drying times. The wall should be totally dry before you add paint, wallpaper, or any other decorations.


Spread out the most wrinkle-prone garment. Note the dimensions of your core. Orient shirts vertically. Spread out pants horizontally. Repeat down to the last garment. Place the core on top. Wrap the top piece over the core. Work your way through the rest of the pile.

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Usually, this will be a jacket, long skirt, or long dress. Lay it out flat and smooth out any folds and light wrinkles with your hands.  Most clothes should be placed face up. Tailored jackets, however, should be placed face down. Arrange the sleeves so that they lie naturally. One edge of each clothing item will need to line up with one edge of your core organizer.  The direction of each consecutive layer will vary, but as you place each layer down, one edge of all existing layers (including the newest one) will need to be able to line up with one edge of the core. Each garment will line up with a different edge of the core, however. The garments do not need to line up with the same edge. Long-sleeve shirts and short-sleeve shirts are usually next in your bundle. These items should be placed vertically in your pile.  Alternate the direction of your shirts to maintain an even shape. If the first shirt is upright, the second shirt must be upside-down, the third must be upright, the fourth must be upside-down, and so on. The collar edges should be aligned to the top and bottom of the core. Even though the core has not been placed down yet, keep that in mind as you position the shirts. Trousers, jeans, and other pants are usually placed on top of the shirt layers and further in toward the center of the bundle. All pants should be oriented horizontally.  Alternate the direction of your pants, too. If the waist is to the left on your first pair, the waist of your second pair should be to the right. That of the third pair should be to the left, that of the fourth should be to the right, and so on. The waist edges of each pair of pants should be aligned to the anticipated right and left edges of your core organizer. Gradually layer the rest of your clothes on top of the others, working from the most wrinkle-prone to the most wrinkle-resistant.  As a general rule, shorter items are oriented vertically while longer items are oriented horizontally. Note that wide skirts may need to be folded lengthwise before you wrap...


Spread sealant over the cut inside edges of the worktop. Fit the sink or cooktop into the hole. Screw the sink and cooktop into place.

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Before fitting the sink or cooktop, protect the wooden supports from water damage. Many of these devices come with easy-to-use sealing putty. You may also buy PVC glue or silicone paste and brush it all over the sides of the hole you cut. Lower each one into the holes you cut for them. When done correctly, they’ll fit snugly inside. The sink and cooktop won’t fall through because their tops overhang on the worktop surface. Whichever one you’re installing probably came with all the screws you need. If not, you can buy more at a hardware store. The size you need depends on the kind of sink or cooktop you have. Consult the owner’s manual for more information.


Spread some butter onto your choice of bread. Layer the lettuce on top of the bottom slice. Add some spice with onion. Top it off with some tomato slices. Add some reasoning, if desired. Finish it off with a few slices of cheese. Place the final slice on top and serve the sandwich.

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Cut 2 slices of crusty bread, such as French bread. Spread some softened butter over one side of each slice of bread.  For a fancier sandwich, try pesto, olive oil, or hummus. You can also use mayo or a thick, creamy salad dressing, such as Ranch, Italian, or Green Goddess. Place the bottom slice down, buttered-side-up. Place 1 to 2 leaves of lettuce on top. If the lettuce leaves are much larger than the sandwich, cut them into halves or thirds first. Some types of lettuce have a very thick stem in the middle. Reduce bulk by cutting this stem out with a sharp knife. Cut a thin slice off of a red onion. Separate the slice into rings. Place as many rings as you want onto the lettuce. You can leave the onion rings off if you want to. Cut off two thick slices of tomato. Stack them on top of the lettuce and onion. A thick, meaty tomato would work the best for this. Add a sprinkle of salt and a dash of pepper on top of the tomato slices. How much you use is entirely up to you! Carefully lay 1 to 2 slices of sharp, white Cheddar on top of the sandwich. Make sure that they are covering the tomatoes entirely. They will keep your sandwich from getting soggy. If you don't like Cheddar, try Swiss, Monterey Jack, or Provolone instead. For an extra-fancy touch, slice the sandwich in half diagonally from corner-to-corner. Stick a fancy toothpick or cocktail stick through each sandwich half to hold it together.


Spread the barley out in a single layer on baking sheets. Place the baking sheets inside plastic bags. Store the barley in a cool and well-ventilated area. Mist and flip the barley every 4 to 8 hours. Monitor the size of the acrospire.

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Transfer the barley to 1 or more clean baking sheets. Use your hand to spread out the grains. The grains can be touching, but make sure they're not piled on top of each other. For large batches of barley, you'll need to use multiple baking sheets. Open up a large plastic garbage bag and lay it down flat. Insert a baking sheet filled with barley inside the bag, and fold the opening of the bag under the baking sheet. The plastic will keep the barley moist as it germinates. Repeat with the other baking sheets. The ideal temperature for germination is 64 °F (18 °C). Good places for germination include well-ventilated root cellars, garages, and basements. Barley that gets too hot or wet will be susceptible to mold growth. Barley that’s too cold or dry won’t germinate properly. The barley will produce heat as it germinates, so you must keep it cool and moist. Remove the baking sheets from the bags and mist the barley with cool water. Turn each grain over by hand as you mist. Return the baking sheet to the garbage bag and refold the opening of the bag under the baking sheet.  Repeat the misting and flipping 3 to 6 times a day.  If the barley is being germinated somewhere warm or dry, you may have to mist 6 times a day to keep it cool. However, if the barley is somewhere cool or damp, you may only have to mist 3 times a day. Each time you mist and flip the barley, take a few grains and inspect the acrospires for growth. Flip the grain to the smooth side and use a knife to cut open the husk lengthwise. Look for the sprout at the bottom growing upward (away from the roots). The germination process is complete when the acrospires are about as long as the barley grain itself.  The full germination period typically takes 2 to 5 days.  The acrospire is the first sprout that appears during the germination process. Don’t confuse the acrospire with the roots, which are visible and growing out of the bottom of the barley grain. Return the grains you tested to the baking sheet with the other barley.


Spread the blanket on an even surface. Measure the length of the stretcher. Determine the width of the stretcher. Fold the blanket or tarp over the poles. Secure the stretcher with tape, if necessary.

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Start by spreading out the blanket or tarp on an even surface, such as the floor. Make sure no corners are folded over and the blanket is laying flat. You may also place the two poles next to the blanket so they are easy to access. You will first need to check that the blanket and the poles are around the same length. This will ensure there is no extra material hanging off the sides of the stretcher.  Measure the length of the stretcher by placing one of the poles on the blanket lengthwise. If the pole is not in line with the end of the blanket, you may need to fold over the end or both ends of the blanket so the blanket is around the same length as the poles. You may make the blanket about one to two inches shorter than the length of the poles so some of the pole sticks out on either end of the blanket. This will make it easier to hold and lift the poles once you use the stretcher. Once you have confirmed the length of the blanket, you will need to determine how wide the stretcher is going to be. Start by placing one pole lengthwise about two feet from the edge of the blanket. Then, consider how wide you want the stretcher to be. If you are trying to fit someone who is of average weight and height, you may place the other pole lengthwise two feet away (0.7 meters) from the first pole. If you are trying to fit someone who is a bit bigger or wider, you may space out the poles so there are three feet (0.9 meters) between the two poles. Try not to make the distance between the two poles too big, as you will need enough material on either side of the poles to fold over the poles. Now that the poles are in place, you will take one end of the blanket and fold it over the poles. It may only cover one of the poles and lay just behind the second pole. This is fine. Make sure the blanket lays flat over the poles.  Then, take the other end of the blanket and fold it over the other pole. The two ends of the blanket should overlap each other. Make sure the poles stay straight lengthwise as you fold over the blanket. If...


Spread the fabric face down on your work surface. Trace your template onto your fabric. Use fabric scissors to cut the template out of your fabric.

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Make sure there is no bunching or wrinkling and that the material is completely smooth on the flat surface. You want it to be smooth so that you do not accidentally cut across a wrinkle and end up with an uneven fabric cover for your lamp. If the fabric is wrinkled, iron it before you lay it out. If the fabric is old or you've repurposed it from another project, consider washing it first. Lay your template down on top of your fabric. Then use a pencil, chalk, or disappearing ink marker to trace the outline of the template onto your fabric. If you're worried about the template staying in place, you can use straight pins to secure the template to the fabric. Pin the template at the corners. Fabric scissors will cut through the fabric better than regular scissors will, preventing frayed edges. Gently cut the material along the lines you traced from the template. Remove any remaining fabric from the work surface.


Spread the frosting.

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Begin spreading the frosting over your desired dessert, several tablespoons at a time, using a spatula. After you’ve covered the surface of the dessert, use the spatula to smooth out the frosting and ensure that it’s evenly distributed.  You can use this frosting for a range of cakes and desserts, from angel food cake to cupcakes to sheet cakes. You can also optionally run a butter knife or spatula over the frosting to create a wave-like design. Alternatively, you can spoon the frosting into a pastry bag (or a plastic storage bag with a small hole cut in one of the corners) equipped with a frosting tip, then squeeze frosting onto the dessert.


Spread the hoodie on a flat work surface. Cut a straight line from the center of the hoodie's neckline. Trim or fold the edges of the neckline to make smooth diagonal lines. Poke holes on along the V-neck and thread it to make a laced hoodie.

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Don't work on the floor or your bed since you could accidentally cut into the carpet or bedspread. Instead, you'll want to cut the hoodie on a work table or counter. You could also lay down a cutting mat to protect your work surface. Decide how deep you want the V-neck to be and use scissors to cut from the middle of the neckline to the bottom of the V-neck's point. For example, to make a deep V-neck, cut a 5 in (13 cm) line. If you'd like a shallow V-neck, try cutting a 3 in (7.6 cm) line. Fold the sides of neckline away from each other so they're angled in a V-shape. Then, decide if you want to trim the excess fabric or keep the neckline folded. If you're keeping the fabric folded, you can sew it in place if you don't want it falling onto your chest. For an easy embellishment, use a skewer to poke 3 or 4 holes on each side of the V-neck. Thread a new shoelace through the holes as though you were lacing a pair of shoes. Then, you can tighten or loosen the neckline by adjusting the shoelace. You could also thread the hoodie's neckline with thick yarn or ribbon instead of a shoelace.


Spread the stomach open and remove the guts and entrails. Scoop out the fish’s kidney by the spine if it has one. Rinse your fish under cold water and clean the abdominal cavity.

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Without ripping your cut, carefully spread the two sides of the fish open 2–6 inches (5.1–15.2 cm) at the vent. Reach near the head of the fish and pinch the organs where they connect to the head between your thumb and index finger. Gently pull them out at the root. Reach towards the tail of the fish and slowly pull out the guts and entrails.  Inspect the body cavity for any remaining organs and remove them by hand. Discard the organs in an appropriate trash bin. At a cleaning station, drop them in the grinder to get rid of them. Some fish have a small kidney on the inside of their spine near their midsection. Look along the interior side of the spine for a small bean-shaped organ. If your fish has a kidney, scoop it out with a spoon. In a large sink or cleaning area, hold your fish vent-side up. Turn on a steady stream of cold water and spread the stomach open. Let the water run through your fish’s abdominal cavity while you use your hands or a spoon to rub the interior walls of your fish’s body. This will remove any remaining residue from the organs and clean the flesh. Wash your fish for at least 1 minute to ensure that every part of the fish’s abdominal cavity gets rinsed.


Spread up to 1 cup (240 mL) of sliced almonds on a microwave-safe plate. Repeat in 1-minute intervals until the nuts are golden-brown and fragrant. Allow the nuts to cool, then use or store them for 1-2 weeks.

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Arrange them in a single layer with minimal overlap. Do not grease the plate. Place the plate into the microwave. Aim to remove the almonds from the microwave just before they start to brown and become fragrant. This should take 3-5 minutes, depending on your microwave's power.  All microwaves cook differently, so keep a close eye on your nuts as they cook. If you have an older model, it may take longer to toast the almonds. Make sure to stir the almonds at each 1-minute interval to make sure they toast evenly. As long as they are stored in an airtight container, the toasted almonds will be good for up to 2 weeks. They can be kept in the fridge or at room temperature. If you want the nuts to keep for longer, store them in the freezer. Frozen almond slices can last for up to 3 months.


Spread your cat’s food on a flat plate or pan. Try a puzzle feeder. Squish wet food down at the bottom of your cat’s food bowl. Put a golf ball in the middle of your cat’s food bowl. Use a food bowl with a built in lump in the middle. Buy an automatic feeder.

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To ensure your cat takes her time when she eats, pour her dry food on a flat surface, like a plate or a baking pan. This will force her to eat only a few pieces of dry food at a time and take smaller bites of her food. You can make or buy a puzzle feeder for your cat, which has the added bonus of providing mental stimulation. Your cat will need to work to get her food from the puzzle. This will prevent her from binge eating as the food will be dispensed in small amounts. You can purchase a puzzle feeder or make one by gluing cardboard tubes together in a grid and putting a few kibbles in each tube. One such feeder is a plastic ball with holes. You can put dry food inside the ball, and your cat can then play and try to eat the food as it falls through the holes. This will prevent her from binge eating and encourage her to use her hunting skills to get her meals. This will make your cat eat more slowly because she cannot simply scarf down her food. Instead, she has to practice lapping up her food slowly and swallowing before she can take another bite. An obstruction, like a golf ball or a ping pong ball, can force your cat to slow down when she eats as she will need to pause while eating to move the obstruction or eat around the obstruction. Make sure you use an object that your cat cannot swallow, like a golf ball or a ping pong ball. Many pet stores sell food bowls made for cats and dogs that have one big lump in the middle or several small lumps. These food bowls will help your cat get used to eating more slowly and to take smaller bites of food. An automatic feeder is set up so that as an owner you have control over how much your cat eats with the simple press of a button. Many feeders can be set on digital timers so you know exactly how much food your cat is getting at one time. There are also measurements on the feeder to help you determine how much food your cat will receive and to prevent over or under feeding your cat. You can set the feeder so your cat receives smaller portions of food throughout the...


Spread your left palm so your thumb and pinky make a right angle. Imagine that each finger represents an angle in the first quadrant. Find the cosine coordinate of an angle by counting the fingers to the left. Get the sine coordinate of an angle by counting the fingers to the right. Switch the charge on your coordinates to represent other quadrants. Fill in your unit circle using your hand trick.

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The first quadrant is the top, right side of the circle. It’s the part of the circle where both the x-coordinate and the y-coordinate are positive. As you move into other quadrants, the angle measurement will change. However, the coordinates for sine and cosine will be the same integer, though they may shift from positive to negative. That means you can use your left hand trick to find the coordinates in any quadrant! Here’s how to label your fingers:  Use your pinky to represent a 0 degree angle. The 0 degree angle falls on your x-axis. It’s the starting point of your circle, which is why it’s 0. Your ring finger represents a 30 degree angle. Let your middle finger represent a 45 degree angle. Your index finger represents a 60 degree angle. Make your thumb represent the 90 degree angle. Put down the finger you’re using to represent the angle you want to find the cosine for. Count the number of fingers to the left of the finger that represents your angle. Then, take the square root of this number and divide it by 2 to find your coordinates.  For example, if you were finding the coordinates for a 30 degree angle, you’d put down your ring finger. To the left of that finger, you have your thumb, index finger, and middle finger, which means 3 fingers. This means the cosine coordinate is 32{\displaystyle {\frac {\sqrt {3}}{2}}}. This is your final answer since you can't simplify the fraction any further. If you were getting the cosine for a 0 degree angle, you’d put down your pinkie and count 4 fingers to the left. Your equation is 42{\displaystyle {\frac {\sqrt {4}}{2}}}. Since the square root of 4 is 2, you’d solve 2/2=1. This is your cosine. Put your finger down again, then count the number of fingers to the right. Take the square root of this number, then divide it by 2.  In the example above, you’d see that for a 30 degree angle you only have one finger to the right, your pinky finger. That means your sine coordinate would be 12{\displaystyle {\frac {\sqrt {1}}{2}}}. Since the square root of 1 is 1, you can...


Spread your message to as many of your social media contacts as possible. Know what information you can share.

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An important element of sharing is also asking your contacts to forward on what you've shared. This is how the power of social media manifests its strength and it is important to encourage others to be agents of change with you. For example, you may ask them to "RT" or retweet your messages on Twitter. The ripple effect of sharing, where if everyone has ten contacts, one person will affect ten, ten hundred, hundred thousand, and thousand ten thousand, is the social media guarantee that when a cause or protest takes hold, and all those connected will hear the message and join in.  In return, always do the same for those sharing your message if they're also providing relevant and important information; share their information too. Join with like-minded people and civil society organizations, and share their updates as well as your own. There are many things you can share when the cause or protest takes off but it will depend on what the issue is and whether you're targeting people who are supporting via social media or people who are actively pursuing political change on-the-ground. Some ideas of what you might wish to share include:  Background information as to what the cause is, what you believe needs changing and why Information that people can verify if they ask questions or are asked questions What is going on in your area in terms of government, corporate, institutional, or military action (including photos and video, if you can) Tips on how people can protect themselves against riot control agents, arrest, or against search and seizure, etc.  Emergency numbers for use in case protesters are arrested; bail options and ways people online might be able to help raise bail if relevant Blueprints of where to go and what supplies to take; whether it's a peaceful demonstration or a riotous protest, keeping people in the know is a way of helping them stay safe and informed Messages of support and solidarity to boost protesters' morale Tips for how to bypass government censorship or read between the lines of...