Whisk together all of the ingredients in a saucepan over medium heat. Switch to a wooden spoon when the mixture starts to thicken, and continue stirring. Remove the dough from the saucepan. Knead in some food coloring, if desired. Finish kneading the playdough, and adjust it as necessary. Play with the playdough.

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Place a large saucepan on the stove, and add the water, flour, salt, cornstarch, vegetable oil, and powdered Alum. Turn the heat to medium, and begin stirring with a whisk. As the mixture heats up, it will start to thicken. Switch to a wooden spoon so that it doesn't get caught in our whisk. As you continue to stir it, the ingredients will begin to leave the sides of the saucepan and clump together to form a dough. When this happens, turn off the stove, and carefully remove the dough from the saucepan. Set it down onto a smooth working surface. You can make it all one color, or you can split the playdough up into smaller balls, and knead some food coloring into each one. Keep kneading until the food coloring is mixed evenly throughout the playdough. There should be no streaks or swirls; the color should be even.  If you are working with one big ball, start with just three drops of food coloring. If you are working with smaller balls, start with one drop. A little bit goes a long way! The more food coloring you add, the darker your playdough will become. If the playdough's texture is not quite right for you, you can still fix it. Knead in a little more cornstarch or flour if it is too wet or sticky. If it is too dry, knead in some water. Lastly, if the playdough is too light in color for you, add a few more drops of food coloring. You can make little figures with it, or roll it out and cut shapes out using cookie cutters. When you are done playing with it, put it into an airtight container so that it doesn't dry out.


Whisk together the flax seed and water. Pile the chickpea flour onto the counter. Combine the flour and flax seed mixture. Let rest for 20 to 30 minutes.

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Combine the flax seed and water in a small bowl and set aside for about 5 minutes. The mixture should thicken, turning into a gel consistency. Create a small indentation or well in the center top of the mound. This dough is a little more fragile than the basic dough, so it is recommended that you mix it by hand instead of using a stand mixer. Spoon the flax seed gel into the flour mound. Gently bring the walls of the flour well in, combining the flour with the flax seed gel evenly. Only mix the dough as long as necessary for it to come together. Wrap the dough in wax paper or plastic wrap and allow it to rest at room temperature.  This dough can stay out longer than 30 minutes, but the gel may begin to break down if you leave it out for more than a few hours. Do not refrigerate the dough.


Whisk together the original jerky marinade. Heat the sweet and spicy jerky marinade over medium heat. Mix together a teriyaki marinade. Combine a spicy venison marinade. Cut the venison into 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm)-thick slices. Marinate the meat in 1 of the marinades for at least 4 to 5 hours. Lift the venison strips out of the marinade and dry them.

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Measure all of your ingredients into a large bowl. Whisk them together until the sugar and spices dissolve in the cold water. Keep the marinade in the bowl or pour it into a sealable plastic bag. Place all of the marinade ingredients into a small saucepan. Stir and heat the marinade over medium heat until it starts to bubble gently. Turn off the burner and stir the marinade until the sugar dissolves. Let it cool to room temperature before you marinate the venison in it. Measure savory teriyaki into a large mixing bowl and add the Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, and liquid smoke. Stir in the remaining spices until the sugar and salt dissolve. If you'd like to marinate the venison in a sealable bag, pour the marinade into a sealable plastic bag that's large enough to hold the meat. For hot jerky, mince 2 habanero peppers and transfer them to a large bowl. Stir cayenne, red pepper flakes, and paprika into the remaining marinade ingredients until they're combined. To marinate the meat in a bag, transfer the marinade into a sealable plastic bag that's large enough to hold the meat. Take your piece of venison and set it on a cutting board. Use a sharp knife to carefully cut the meat into evenly sliced strips that are 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm)-thick. Remember to slice against the grain so the jerky is easier to chew. Place the trimmed venison into the bowl or sealable plastic bag with your marinade. Stir the venison so it's completely coated in the marinade. Cover and refrigerate the meat for at least 4 to 5 hours or overnight.  Avoid marinating the meat at room temperature because this will allow harmful bacteria to grow. The longer the meat marinates, the more flavorful the jerky will be. You can marinate it for up to 1 day. Remove the marinating venison from the refrigerator and lift each of the strips out of the marinade. Set them on a plate or cutting board and use a paper towel to pat them dry to remove the excess marinade. Turn the meat over and pat the other sides dry.


Whisk together the picante sauce, chili powder, and cumin. Combine with the sour cream. Store in the refrigerator until ready to use.

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Combine the ingredients in a bowl and rapidly whisk them together until evenly combined. Since this is such a simple salad dressing, you do not need to use a blender or food processor. In fact, the heat from the machine could melt the sour cream as you blend it, causing the dressing to turn soupy and gloppy. Stir the sour cream into the existing ingredients until it is thoroughly blended. You will know the sour cream has been blended in based on the color of the dressing. Once there are no longer any red or white streaks, the color is even, and solid, the ingredients have been blended sufficiently. You can use the dressing immediately, but if you made it ahead of time, place the poppy seed salad dressing in an airtight container and store it in the refrigerator until ready to serve. Store the dressing inside the refrigerator when not in use. It should stay fresh for a few days to a week.


Whisk together two cups mayonnaise and one cup buttermilk until smooth. Toss in your spices, adjusting to your personal taste. Whisk the entire mixture well. Refrigerate for 2-3 hours before serving for the best flavor.

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This is the creamy base of your dressing. If you don't feel like using mayonnaise, you can also use 2 cups plain, whole-fat yogurt instead, leading to a slightly healthier ranch dressing. For a "best of both worlds," use half sour cream and half plain yogurt.  Make sure you shake the buttermilk well before adding it. If you don't have any buttermilk, whole milk will work as well. You can add the juice from 1/2 a lemon to get the sour, buttermilk taste without the buttermilk. The blend of flavors and spices you add are up to you, but the basics are usually pretty standard across the board. You can't go wrong with:  3/4 Teaspoon each of salt, onion salt, and dried parsley 1/4 Teaspoon garlic salt 1/8 Teaspoon each of pepper, dill weed, and thyme Whip up the mixture to your desired consistency, making sure that the spices are well distributed throughout the dressing. You can also mix the whole dressing in a seal-able jar, then shake to evenly mix up the dressing. You can serve the ranch immediately if you want, but it will always be better if you give the flavors time to mix and blend. This dressing will last about a week in the fridge. It should be kept cold whenever it is not being eaten.


Whisk wet ingredients. Coat the bread. Soak the bread. Prepare for baking. Bake the toast.

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Take your eggs and break them into a large bowl. Add in eggnog, sugar, 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, and vanilla. Whisk together until well blended. Take the loaf of bread and, using a sharp knife, cut it into 1 inch (2.5 cm) cubes. Take the cubes and add them to the egg mixture. Toss the cubes in the mixture until they are completely coated. Grease a baking dish with butter or nonstick spray. Pour your ingredients in the dish. Make sure you add any extra mixture that did not coat the bread. Cover the dish with aluminum foil or plastic wrap. Place in the fridge overnight.  Soaking the bread for this long allows the cubes to fully soak in the mixture, which makes the bread soft and creamy instead of bready. If you don't want to leave the dish overnight, you need to let it soak for at least 8 hours. After you have let your dish soak, take it out of the fridge. Preheat your oven at 350 degrees. Mix the brown sugar and 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon in a bowl. Uncover the dish and sprinkle the mixture over the top of the dish. Bake the bread for 45 minutes uncovered. The egg mixture should be cooked and the bread should be golden brown. Serve in bowls and enjoy. This recipe makes 8 servings.


Widen your world with new experiences and new people. Identify your own little world versus the real world. Remember that no one is out to get you. Do a good deed. Make the world a bit better in small ways. Step outside your comfort zone.

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It's all too easy to get wrapped up in ourselves and forget that the rest of the world exists separate to us. By constantly making yours bigger and bigger, you'll have a clearer perspective on what really matters and just how good you have it. Talk to strangers. This is the easiest way to broaden your horizons, learn something, and benefit from others. You may be thinking, "That's a little creepy," but think about how much people love to be given attention. Talking to a stranger could be an exciting point in both of your days. Too often we're guilty of thinking globally. "I failed at this" gets turned into, "I'm a failure." Maybe in your world, yes, you failed at whatever you tried to do. But are you a failure? Heck no. Not even close. Nothing is all good or all bad. Nor are feelings facts. Thinking "I'm an abject failure" is guilty of both those things. There is no way you're all that bad (it's impossible) and that's a feeling that you're misconstruing. If you catch yourself thinking like that, stop. Get back on the train to the real world where you're just as good as everyone else (and you are). Thinking as such is paranoid. Most people are too busy thinking about themselves, how they come off, and the next time they'll be able to talk to worry about sabotaging you. This gives you the reins for your world. Now what are you going to do with them? The only thing that's possible is that you are out to get you. Are you your own worst critic? If so, know that it's totally common, but it's not the healthiest of habits. Try to develop self-compassion. Treat yourself like you would treat one of your friends. If someone asks for your help, do it. You may not be in the mood, you may even want to sulk a bit, but helping someone else will take your mind off your current woes -- and make you feel good about helping them. This is all about knowing you're a good person. Sometimes it's easy to forget. But when we take physical action, it becomes pretty hard to ignore. If you see an opportunity (all you have to do is keep...


Wiggle the card scanner to see if it moves or budges. Press down on the key pad to see if it feels sticky or spongy. Use Skimmer Scanner on your phone to test for skimmers. Stop using the ATM if it is difficult to enter your card.

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If the card reader moves or jiggles at all, there is probably a skimmer attached. ATMs are very sturdily constructed, and none of their parts should budge. Skimmers, however, are often attached with tape, glue, or other unstable methods. Press a few random keys. If it feels spongy, sticky, or rigid, there may be a fake pad attached. This app uses Bluetooth to see if the ATM is sending information out to another phone or computer. You can download the app for Android phones for free from the app store. Normal ATMs should easily and quickly accept your card. If the ATM is slow or if it is difficult to get your card in the reader, stop what you are doing. Report the ATM to the bank or business.


Win the game by forcing the opponent's king into "checkmate. Watch out for stalemate.

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" This occurs when you can capture the king on your next move no matter what your opponent does. By contrast, your opponent's king is merely "in check" if you could capture him on your next move but the opponent has a means of escaping. A player must immediately move his/her king out of check if it's possible to do so.   You never actually capture a king. Once it's apparent that a king cannot avoid being captured on the next move, checkmate is immediately declared, and the game is over. You must say "check" when you make a move that puts the opponent's king in immediate danger. You may not place your own king in check. Such a move must be immediately rescinded. A game can end in a tie (a "draw"). Stalemate occurs when neither king is in check and the next player to move has no legal move available. If you are in an advantageous position, you would want to avoid stalemate. (The opposite is true if you are in a weak position and would love to force a tie.) Stalemate typically may occur when there are only a few pieces left such as pawns blocked by other pawns, and kings that can't move without putting themselves in check.  Remember that you can never put yourself in check. Thus, if it's your turn to move and your only available move would put your king in check, the game is over, and a stalemate is declared.  In some tournaments this means you lose, although most players call this a draw. Stalemate does not occur if either king is currently in check.


Wind mechanical watches. Wipe off dirt and oil from your watch on a regular basis. Polish your watch Use a chain and fob regularly to keep your watch safe. Take broken watches to be repaired.

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All but the newest pocket watches will run between 24 and 28 hours per wind. High-grade and newer models can last between 36 and 48 hours. Regardless of what type of pocket watch you own, most springs are intended to be wound daily.  Try to wind your watch every morning or evening so it becomes part of your daily routine. You’ll be less likely to forget to wind your watch this way. Stem-wind watches are wound by twisting the ridged crown at the top of the stem, usually in a clockwise direction. As it winds, you should hear a clicking, “ratcheting” noise. Key-wind watches will have a small hole inside the inner lid of the watch case. In the hole will be a square metal winding arbor (similar to a peg). A key goes on the arbor to wind the watch. A soft, lint-free cloth, like one made from microfiber, is suitable for gently lifting skin oil and dirt off of metal surfaces. Buff the watch with the cloth to clean the metal. Do this every time you are done wearing it.  When the metal of your watch dulls or tarnishes, use a tiny bit of suitable metal cleaner while buffing with a soft, lint-free cloth. Remember to wipe down the inside faces of the watch and its case with your dry cloth. If your watch case has hinges, gunk tends to accumulate here. when necessary. Many watches tarnish or become scuffed around the edges, though many of these imperfections can be removed with polishing. Buy some metal polish and use a soft, lint free cloth to gently clean the watch according to the polish directions.  Polish is generally formulated for a specific kind of metal, so you’ll need to know what your watch is made of before polishing it. If you don’t know the material your watch is made of, take it to a jeweler or watch repair person to find out. While you're at it, ask what kind of polish you should use to clean your watch at home. If your watch has grooved etching or engraving on it, clean these with polish as well. Cotton swabs are useful for dealing with nooks and crannies. Always make sure the watch fob or chain is securely...


Wind the bobbin Place a spool of thread onto the spool pin. Wrap thread around the first thread guide. Insert the end of the thread under and over the second guide. Bring the thread through the threading canal and tension mechanism. Pull the thread up through the other side of the threading canal. Pull the thread down and through the thread guide above the needle. Thread the needle going from the front to the back of the machine.

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before you thread the top part of your machine. If you don’t have a pre-wound bobbin already, wind a bobbin now. Place a spool of thread onto the spool pin and move the bobbin winder pin to the far left. Insert the end of the thread through the hole in the rim of the bobbin and place the bobbin onto the winder pin. Push the bobbin pin back to the right. Then, apply gentle pressure to the pedal to begin winding the bobbin. Continue to apply pressure to the pedal until the bobbin is wound and thread is nearly even with the rim of the bobbin. The spool pin should be located on the top of your sewing machine. Place a full spool of thread onto the pin until it locks in place. You should hear or feel it click.  If your sewing machine has a horizontal spool pin, then you will also need to place a cap on top of the pin to hold the spool in place. It does not matter what direction the thread is going when you place it onto the spool pin. The first thread guide will be on the top of the machine above the needle apparatus. If you have the manual to your machine, look at the chart that indicates the function of each of the parts to locate this guide. Grasp the end of the thread on the spool and pull it across the top of the sewing machine to the first thread guide. Bring the thread through the slot under the thread guide. Wrap the end over the top of the thread guide and then wrap it around to the right side of the guide. As long as the thread is going through the guide and out on the right side, it should be fine. The second thread guide will be next to the first thread guide. Use your instruction manual to locate it if possible. Go into the guide from the right underside of it. Then, bring the end of the thread over the top of the guide. After you do this, grasp the thread on either side of the thread guide and move the thread to the end of the guide. Make sure the thread is completely through the guide. Next, pull the end of the thread and wrap it around the tension mechanism, which is directly at the bottom of the...


Wind the yarn around your DVD case. Tape off the yarn. Cut the yarn. Secure the yarn with tissue paper. Sew the yarn to the tissue paper. Remove the tissue paper. Repeat this process, but with less yarn. Glue the larger piece of hair to the doll’s head. Add a side part with the smaller strand. Style your doll hair.

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Take your spool of yarn and your DVD case. You want to wrap the yarn around the DVD case width-wise. There are two sides to a DVD case: a notched side, where the case opens, and a smooth side. Begin winding at the notched side, slightly left of the center. Wind the yarn towards the center of the DVD.  Wind the yarn fairly tight and make sure no yarn is overlapping.  You should also wind the yarn close together, so there are no gaps in yarn. Keep winding the yarn until you've moved 3 to 3.5 inches across the DVD. If there are any gaps in the yarn, push the yarn together to fill in these gaps. If you have difficulty keeping the yarn in place with your fingers alone, you can tape down the end of the yarn with a piece of scotch tape. Once your yarn is wound around the DVD, take two long pieces of scotch tape. Use this tape on the smooth side of the DVD. On the front and back of the DVD, just underneath the smooth side, tape down the yarn. The yarn on the smooth side should be securely taped to the DVD. Take a pair of scissors and slip them underneath the notched edge of the DVD. Cut through the yarn on this side of the DVD. Then, un-tape the yarn on the smooth side, keeping the tape securely attached to the yarn. You should begin to see something of a wig forming. The tape marks a barrier where the doll's part will be. There should be strands of loose yarn coming off either side this part. If you're struggling to cut the yarn, get a sharper pair of scissors. You should be using sewing scissors rather than normal craft scissors. You do not want your doll's hair to look uneven. Cut off a thin piece of tissue paper roughly 4 by 8 inches. Lay the tissue paper on a flat surface. Place the taped portion of the yarn between each strand of tape on the tissue paper. Fold the tissue paper over this portion of the yarn, sandwiching the yarn between the tissue paper. You should have a long line of strands of yarn with the tissue resting on the halfway point between the strands. As you can see, hair is forming. The tissue...


Wind your bobbin with the appropriate color. Choose your sewing machine’s settings. Place the fabric beneath the machine’s foot. Slowly feed your fabric through the machine. Run back over the final ½ inch (1.27 cm) of the fabric. Remove excess thread.

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Choose the color that best suits your seam, whether it is visible or not. Although the color may not seem important initially, if the fabric in question is even a tiny bit sheer, a dark or light thread will be immediately visible. Choose a color as close to the fabric or existing thread as possible. New and old sewing machines come with a wide array of settings, ranging from the length of a stitch to the type of stitch being used. Consult your machine’s manufacturer’s booklet or instruction manual to determine how to choose a setting, and which setting is the optimal setting for your fabric. Place the fabric in need of repair below the foot, beginning ¼-½ inch in front of the torn seam. If possible, line the existing thread up with the machine’s needle to keep the appearance of the seam uniform. Gently press down on the machine’s pedal, feeding your fabric through the machine carefully and slowly. Again, though you may think it is best to get the job done quickly, the needle could snag even a thick fabric if it is passed through too quickly. Take your time. Remove your pins as you go, making sure they do not pass beneath the machine’s needle. Although it could skip over the pin, you run the risk of breaking the needle when it hits the pin. Once you have reached the end of the tear, go back over your fabric to close the thread loop. Once you have done that, lift the foot, and remove the fabric from beneath the foot. ½ an inch (1.27 cm) is more than enough space. Going over any more of the fabric may result in accidentally ripping up your repaired stitches. Snip the thread from the bobbin and needle, and trim any excess fabric or thread from the newly-mended area. If there are frayed edged, be sure to trim those too, as leaving a frayed edge behind could result in additional fraying. Be sure to remove your fabric from the machine slowly; you must cut the thread from the bobbin and needle before trimming up any leftover thread.


Window shop online. Plan a dream vacation. Learn a magic trick. Check out some art. Make some art yourself.

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Got some time to kill, but no money? Go online shopping, but don't buy anything. You can buy almost anything online, and it can be fun to poke around and price-compare anything from clothes and shoes to land-plots and condominiums. Make a wish list of everything you want. Just don't max out your credit card. Use Google Maps to explore cities you're unfamiliar with and explore local landmarks on Wikipedia. Then hop over to Expedia and start pricing plane tickets, or check out AirBnB deals, or advertisements on CouchSurfer. Once you know where you want to go, you can start saving up to make your dream come true. Want to impress your friends next time you see them? Try learning a coin or card trick. There are a bunch of places online that break down the steps so that you can learn it at your own speed, including right here at wikiHow.  One of the most popular sites is GoodTricks, and you can also find lots of guides on YouTube. If you're looking for inspiration, check out art-specific websites like DeviantArt (alternative art), Behance (graphic design), Flickr (photography), and Juxtapoz (contemporary art blog). Feeling a little creative? There are a lot of different online drawing and painting services that range from goofy to professional. Having them online is convenient since you won't need to install anything yourself. Some popular options:  On the web: Sketchpad is a free option to draw all kinds of designs, while Sketchup is focused on 3D modeling. For download: Gimp is a free, full-featured photo and graphics editor comparable to Adobe Photoshop, and Krita is more geared toward drawing and painting.


Wipe away the remaining glue on the edges of the front of the phone. Apply double-sided tape to the top and bottom of the front panel. Wipe the LCD screen with a lens cleaner. Remove the protective cover from your replacement glass carefully. Put the touch buttons back in place. Connect the metal earpiece to the new glass. Apply the replacement glass onto your phone. Heat the panel again.

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Use some WD40 and microfiber cloth, but do not use WD40 excessively. The double-sided tape should come with the front panel replacement when you purchased it. Make sure it is spotless before applying the new glass. Inspect it in the light for inconsistencies or blemishes that you should wipe off before applying. Peel off the paper on the strips of sticker tape on the phone, and peel out the protective plastic on the surfaces of the replacement screen. Make sure to secure it properly.  Make sure everything is dust free before doing so. Apply pressure on the edges of the screen to make them adhere securely while lining up the buttons to the appropriate areas while applying the glass. You can use a small flathead screwdriver to secure the touch buttons (Back and Menu buttons) ribbons to the right position when laying the bottom of the panel down. Place firm pressure around the circumference of the phone only.


Wipe dirt and buildup off of the bearings. Pop the rubber guards off. Soak the bearings in bearing solvent. Shake the bearings around in the jar. Remove the bearings from the jar and dry them off. Spray or wipe the bearings with lubricant. Pop the rubber guards back on and put the bearings back in the wheels.

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Take a paper towel or old rag and dampen it with water. Wipe the bearing down, removing any visible debris from the bearing. If you didn’t notice any problem with the functioning of the bearings, a quick wipe might be sufficient cleaning. Use a small screwdriver, paper clip, or razor blade to pop the guards off. Slide the tool under the rubber guard and gently pry it off. Be careful not to slice the rubber guard or damage the rest of the bearing in the process.  It’s not absolutely necessary to remove the guard, but you can clean the bearing more thoroughly if you do. Some bearings have more than one guard that you must remove before exposing the bearing balls. Put the bearings into a glass jar, and fill it half-full with a bearing-specific solvent bought at your local skate shop. If you don’t have this, high-purity rubbing alcohol, carburetor cleaner, or lemon juice all work fairly well. Let the bearings sit for about 10 minutes, depending on how dirty they are. If your bearings are significantly rusty, it may be best to buy new ones rather than simply cleaning the ones you have. Cleaning and lubricating the bearings may be enough to get them functioning again. After the bearings soak in the fluid, swirl them around in the jar to further loosen any debris or buildup in the bearings. You may see lots of dirt that has already been removed, but a quick swirl helps finish off the cleaning. Swirl the jar for about one minute. Dump the cleaner out of the jar and lay the bearings out on a towel. One by one, wipe them with the towel and dry them as much as possible. Move the balls around in the track to dry all sides. You won’t get the bearings totally dry, but get them as dry as possible. For a more complete drying, use a hair dryer or fan to evaporate all of the moisture. Before you put the rubber guards back on, lubricate the bearing balls. Cleaning is important, but without proper lubrication, the bearings still won’t work quite right. Use a few drops of lubricant from the skate shop, some motor oil, or speed...


Wipe down all components using some cloth rags, but a lint-free wipe is not necessary. Apply solvent (preferably designed to be safe to continually contact your skin, like M-Pro 7) on all possibly dirty components. Let the solvent sit for a couple minutes. Scrub the whole gun with a brush (without metal bristles; use something like a toothbrush). Wipe the gun clean with lint-free cloth (you can buy pre-cut cloth, but a clean old cotton shirt or socks also work). Wipe down the whole gun (inside and out) with a solvent-soaked lint-free cloth again, and look again for any areas turning the cloth dark, and clean them. Use the pick to get off any thick chunks of carbon or powder buildup, or buildup in tight parts of the gun. Use a bore brush to break any buildup free from the barrel. Swab the barrel with a cloth soaked with solvent. Oil all the components requiring lubrication. After a thorough cleaning, the next step in maintaining your firearm is to properly lubricate it. After oiling your firearm, a light grease should be used on its sliding parts.

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Remove as much as you can of the thick, caked-on carbon buildup created by the friction of use and burning powder. Also wipe off any old oil and all unburnt powder buildup. Wipe the inside of the magazine well, the ejector, guide rails, and the area around the chamber. You will find certain areas turn the rags/patches black (clean these areas more). On this step, precision is not required; wipe it quickly. Most handgun manufacturers design components (even the polymer) to be safely used with any solvent, but be sure there aren't types of solvents the manufacturer warns against. A liberal amount of solvent is not necessary. Make sure any area with dirt, carbon buildup, or unburnt powder has solvent on it, soaking in. This works in the solvent and loosens up the buildup on the gun. Try to get into all the nooks and crannies. Get everywhere you put the solvent (should be pretty much everywhere) and wipe it until it wipes clean.  The most common area with carbon deposits is in the chamber. Buildup occurs in the corners of the pieces of metal. Run the full length of the barrel at least five times (more if you have shot a lot since the last cleaning). Be sure not to reverse direction with the brush in the barrel. Instead, push it all the way through, then all the way back (letting the bristles change direction outside of the barrel). Repeat with clean cloths (still soaked in solvent) until a cloth comes out clean. Then swab it with an oil-soaked cloth, this coat of oil will protect your barrel from oxidation (rusting). Often the manual for the gun will have specific areas needing oil, but a quick look at where the gun is wearing will give you a good indication of where to apply oil. Lubrication is as important, if not more so than cleaning. In order to keep your firearms from malfunctioning, proper lubrication is essential and proper oiling protects metal parts from corrosion. Lots of people use Rem Oil, but there are other more effective options out there. When deciding on what type of lubrication to use it is...


Wipe down all components using some paper towel (or cloth, but this is less important to be lint-free). Spray solvent (preferably designed to be safe to continually contact your skin, like M-Pro 7) on all possibly dirty components. Let the solvent sit for a couple minutes. Scrub the whole gun with a brush (no metal bristles — like a toothbrush). Wipe the gun clean with lint-free cloth (you can buy pre-cut cloth, but a clean old shirt or socks also work). Wipe down the whole gun (inside and out) with a solvent-soaked lint-free cloth again, and look again for any areas turning the cloth dark, and clean it. Use the pick to get off any thick chunks of carbon or powder buildup, or buildup in tight parts of the gun.

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Remove as much of the thick, caked-on carbon buildup created by the friction of use. Also wipe off any old oil and all unburnt powder buildup. Be sure to wipe the inside of the magazine well (if available), the ejector, and the area around the chamber. You will find certain areas turn the paper towel black (clean these areas more). On this step, precision is not required; wipe it quickly. Many rifle manufacturers design components (even polymer and the stock) to be safely used with any solvent, but be sure there aren't types of solvents the manufacturer warns against. A liberal amount of solvent is better than not enough. Make sure any area with dirt, carbon buildup, or unburnt powder has a healthy amount of solvent on it, soaking in. This works in the solvent and loosens up the buildup on the gun. Try to get into all the nooks and crannies.  On a bolt-action rifle, be sure to scrub all nooks and crannies of the bolt (when it is removed from the receiver). On a gas-operated rifle, special care may be required while cleaning the gas rod area, gas tubes, or gas inlet. Get everywhere you put the solvent (should be pretty much everywhere) and wipe it until it wipes clean.  The most common area with carbon deposits is in the chamber. Buildup occurs in the corners of the pieces of metal.


Wipe down the area. Apply cleaning products. Use a natural remedy. Repeat as necessary. Hire a professional.

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If you know where your cat sprayed, you can begin removing the odor by thoroughly cleaning the area. Your first step is to grab some paper towels. If it is a very large spot, you might want to use a cloth towel that you can either immediately wash or throw away.  Using paper or cloth towels, wipe up the urine. If the spray has already dried, pour a cup of cold water on the dried spot, then wipe that up with your towels. If the spot is on the carpet, pour some cold water on the spot. Blot that up with the towels before adding cleaning products. Blot the stain. Do not rub the stain into carpet, furniture, or other material, such as clothing. That will cause the stain to set, which you want to avoid. There are many products you can purchase that will help you get rid of cat spray odor. It is important to choose a product that does not contain ammonia, so read the ingredients before purchasing. The smell of ammonia can cause cats to repeatedly mark that spot.  Choose an enzymatic cleaner. Several different brands make these cleaning sprays. The enzymes effectively break down the compounds in cat urine that create lingering odors. If you are unsure whether a product is enzymatic, ask a store employee. Most pet stores now stock several brands of these cleaners. Follow the directions on the bottle. Spray the soiled area, allow to soak in, then blot with clean towels. If the sprayed area is on carpet or a rug, follow the same instructions. Then vacuum the area to help thoroughly remove the stain. If you don't want to use a chemical cleaner, you can make your own natural cleaning solution. Mix 100 ml of white vinegar with 200 ml of warm water. Place in a clean, empty spray bottle and shake well.  After you have wiped up the urine, spray your cleaning mixture on the soiled area. Blot dry with clean cloths or paper towels. You can also mix 5.5 oz of hydrogen peroxide with 1 tablespoon of baking soda. In a clean plastic container, such as a small bucket, add 1 squirt of liquid hand soap. Mix well with a wooden or plastic...


Wipe down the guitar's surface. Look for scratches or cracks. Use a polish for particularly dirty guitars. Clean the fingerboard and frets. Polish the hardware. Replace the guitar's strings. Tune the guitar

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Carefully wipe the finish of the guitar with a soft, damp cloth. You can use a special microfiber guitar cloth, available wherever guitars are sold, but an old cotton T-shirt works just fine.  Simply wiping down a guitar may not get all the surface dirt. Try to figure out whether you're dealing with something oil-based or water-based, as that could determine how you can best get it off. Use water-based cleansers for water-soluble dirt and grime. A few drops of dish detergent diluted in water may work. Dampen your cloth, and try not to get too much moisture on the guitar itself. Use cleansing oils and polishes to remove oil-based dirt. Don't scrub the guitar, as you could damage the finish. This is especially important with older guitars. If you notice the finish starting to flake off, take the guitar to a luthier (someone who builds and fixes guitars) to get it cleaned, rather than trying to do it yourself. Once you've cleaned the surface of the body of the guitar, examine the finish for scratches. Depending on the age of the guitar and how it was used, there also may be wear or cracks in the body.  Scratches and cracks don't necessarily affect the playability of a guitar, but may affect its value. If the guitar's body is cracked, or the finish is scratched or worn down, you may want to avoid using polishes to clean the surface any further. Take the guitar to a guitar repair shop and talk to a luthier – a professional who builds, restores, and repairs guitars. They will be able to help you choose the best method to clean the guitar. A non-abrasive cream or paste polish works well if a guitar has built-up grime of unknown origin, or if light cleaners don't seem to have any effect.These polishes also may even out small scratches in the guitar's finish. Avoid using polish if the guitar's finish has too many cracks or deep scratches. The polish may build up in the cracks and be difficult if not impossible to remove. Loosen or remove the strings (you'll probably want to replace them anyway) so you can clean the...


Wipe down the inside of the oven with vanilla extract. Heat a baking dish of vanilla extract and water in the oven. Bake citrus peels in the oven. Scrub the oven with baking soda and vinegar.

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Put a few drops of vanilla extract on a clean cloth. Then thoroughly rub down the inside walls of the oven. When you turn the oven on next, it will emit a pleasant vanilla smell. When using this method, it’s best to make sure the oven is clean beforehand. Fill a baking dish with water until it’s about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep. Then add 1 teaspoon (5 mL) of vanilla extract to the water. Place the dish in the oven and turn the oven on and set the temperature to 350 °F (177 °C). Leave the dish in the oven for about an hour. You can also do this with lemon juice and water, or fill the dish with only white vinegar. Turn the oven on and set the temperature to 350 °F (177 °C). Put a baking sheet of orange and/or lemon peels in the oven for 30 minutes. Your oven may need a good scrub with a natural, nontoxic solution. Fill a spray bottle with two cups (480 mL) of white vinegar. Sprinkle about a cup (240 mL) of baking soda into the bottom of the oven. Let it sit for as long as possible and then scrub the oven with steel wool and wipe everything out with a clean cloth. Finally, rinse out the oven with hot water. To deodorize more thoroughly, spray the baking soda with the white vinegar to create a paste, spread the paste on the side walls, and then spray more vinegar on the side walls.


Wipe down the outside of the cooler. Check the pads every few months. Keep the tank off when not in use. Add essential oils to the swamp cooler to eliminate odors.

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Every few weeks, you should clean the outside of the swamp cooler. Turn off the unit. Use a damp cloth to clean off the outside of the unit. Just use water. Don't use any harsh chemicals that may cause damage. Cooling pads may only need to be changed twice each year, once at the beginning of the season and once in the middle of the season. However, pads may wear out faster. If you swamp cooler smells bad, or if the local water quality is lower, you may need to replace the pads more often.  Check the pads every few months to look for cracks and overall poor condition. During the colder months, you probably will not use the swamp cooler. Make sure when the cooler is not in use that you shut down the entire system. Turn off the cooler and unplug it. Cut off the water supply and then drain all the water.  Store the swamp cooler in a cool, dry area in the original carton. Swamp coolers can have musty smells. Mixing 15 drops of a scented essential oil, like lemon, lavender, or peppermint, or a mixture of essential oils can help make the swamp cooler smell better. Mix the essential oils with vinegar and place it in a spray bottle. Spray the essential oil mixture into the swamp cooler after you have cleaned it.


Wipe down the upholstery. Apply a leather cleaning agent. Apply a leather conditioner.

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Combine equal parts water and vinegar in a bowl. Dip a microfiber cloth into the solution. Wring out the cloth to remove as much moisture as possible. Wipe down parts of the upholstery that need some minor cleaning. Use as little liquid as possible, as water can stain leather. For areas that are more soiled and require a more vigorous cleaning, apply a small amount of leather cleaning product to a towel or cloth and gently rub the soiled area. Wipe away any excess cleaner and allow the spots to dry. Alternatively, you can also make your own leather cleaner by combining equal parts lemon juice and cream of tartar. Work it into a paste, and apply small amounts of the paste to a clean cloth. Gently rub soiled areas with the paste. Wipe down any excess and allow the areas to dry. Conditioning products help keep leather soft and moist, and prevent it from cracking. Apply small amounts of conditioner with a cloth and wipe away any excess.


Wipe down your kitchen surfaces and food containers with vinegar. Line your home's entrances with household ant deterrents. Draw boundary lines with chalk around your house. Plant ant-repelling herbs around your house. Trim back any shrubs or plants around your house.

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Mix together 1 part white vinegar with 1 part water and dab it onto a paper towel or put in a spray bottle. Use this mixture to clean countertops, the inside of cupboards, and underneath appliances. You can also spray doorways, windowsills, or anywhere you have seen ants. Ants love sweet things but will stay away from anything bitter, pungent, or spicy. You can use most seasonings in your pantry to sprinkle a continuous trail across doorjambs and window sills. Some common ingredients you can use include:  Cayenne pepper Black pepper Lemon juice White vinegar Cinnamon Crushed red pepper flakes Garlic cloves cut in half Chalk and mineral-based powders will cause ants to stumble and get stuck in the fine powders. Follow the seams of your porch steps, window sills, or anywhere there is an opening to your house that meets the outdoors. Redraw your boundaries after a rainfall or if you start to see ants again. You can also seal off your house permanently by using a caulk gun to go over any cracks or any possible tiny entryways. The glue will fill fill any holes your eye may have missed. Create a natural boundary around your house with herbs and plants that naturally keep away pests. You could create a garden area around your doorways or walkways or set up a small windowsill planter. Mint, tansy, yarrow, garlic, and chrysanthemums are some options you can plant. For a fun, different plant, get a venus fly trap to put in a window in your kitchen. They eat ants and are a fun pet alternative for apartments and renters. Ants will hang out in bushes or shaded areas. If there are any shrubs that brush up against your house, take some hedge trimmers and chop off any branches that reach out towards your home. While poking around, you may also find the ants' nest that you can then get rid of as well.


Wipe fresh acrylic paint with a wet cloth. Moisten a fresh cloth with hot water and put some soap on it. Scrub the remaining paint gently with the soapy cloth. Wipe the area with a damp cloth to remove the soap residue. Use a dry cloth or towel to dry the area.

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Dampen a washcloth or rag slightly and try to wipe away as much of the paint as you can. Switch out the cloth as needed if it becomes too saturated. This may be ineffective on paint stains that have been dry for awhile. Soap and water are most effective on fresh paint stains. Use a basic glycerin soap, like dish soap, that will produce a good lather and get into the grain of the wood. You can use liquid or bar soap for this. Keep scrubbing and adding more soap until all the paint is gone. Rub the cloth in straight lines with the grain of the wood to try and get all the paint out of the grooves. Continue to wipe at the spot until the soap suds are gone. You may need to rinse the cloth once if the spot was really soapy. Wipe away as much excess water as possible. The wood will remain damp, and may take up to 48 hours to fully dry depending on the size of the spot.


Wipe from front to back after using the toilet. Take showers instead of baths, if possible. Change your undergarments and incontinence pads or briefs often. Ask your doctor about estrogen replacement therapy. Try probiotic vaginal suppositories. Urinate after sex if you’re sexually active.

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If you’re a woman, keeping residue from the anus away from the urethra is vital to UTI prevention. When cleaning yourself, wipe away from the urethra, or where urine comes out. Fold the paper or cloth to a clean section before wiping again. Baths can allow water to enter the vagina and urethra, which encourages germs to spread. If you’re physically able, take showers instead of baths. A shower seat and handheld shower head can make it easier to shower if you have mobility issues. Wear loose, breathable undergarments, and change them at least once daily or whenever they’re soiled. If you wear adult diapers or incontinence pads, change them whenever they’re soiled. Estrogen levels decrease after menopause, which leads to changes that make the vagina more hospitable for harmful bacteria. An estrogen cream might help, but you should ask your doctor if it’s the right solution for you. A typical regimen involves applying a topical cream nightly for 2 weeks, then twice weekly for 8 months. Vaginal suppositories of Lactobacillus crispatus can help repopulate the vagina with "good" bacteria that don't cause UTIs. This can discourage the growth of harmful germs. Probiotic supplements are available at pharmacies and online, but you should consult your doctor before trying one. A typical regimen involves taking a suppository once weekly. Young and elderly women alike should urinate after sexual contact. This helps flush bacteria from the urethra and reduces the risk of infection.  You should also drink more fluids before having sex. Drink 1 to 2 more glasses of water on days you plan on having sex to promote urination and flush your urinary tract. If you can, take a shower immediately after sex, as well.


Wipe leather furniture down regularly with a clean, dry cloth. Vacuum the furniture's crevices. Clean spills immediately with a dry cloth. Use cleaners designed for leather. Read the manufacturer's label or provided care instructions.

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Use a microfiber cloth. Incorporate wiping the furniture into your weekly household cleaning routine. Keeping dust from building up is the best preventative cleaning measure.  For more stubborn dust, dampen the cloth with distilled water. Make sure that the cloth is not soaking wet. Never let water soak into leather. Always be sure to use a soft cloth and never use an abrasive brush or scrubber as this can scratch and damage the leather. All furniture builds up some dirt and debris, so leather is no exception. Use your vacuum's hose attachment with a soft bristled brush. Gently run the brush across the entire surface. Vacuum in between and under all of the cushions. If you can remove the cushions, do so to make vacuuming more effective. If you can't remove them, get in the crevices as best you can. You might also use a narrow angled attachment to get deeper into the furniture. When anything is spilled onto the leather upholstery, blot it away as soon as possible. Use a dry cloth or sponge to absorb as much of the spilled liquid as possible, only resorting to a moistened cloth if necessary. Use as little water as possible to clean the spill, and wipe the area dry afterward.  Wiping at a spill will only spread it further, so be sure to blot it. Take the dry cloth and set it on top of the stain and leave it there for five seconds or so while it absorbs the spill. For non-water spills, you may need to use a tiny dab of gentle soap with warm water. If the stain is bad enough, it's best to consult a professional so you don't make it worse. The most important thing is to clean the spill up quickly so that it does not have time to soak into the leather. Detergents, solvents, all-purpose cleaning sprays, ammonia, bleach, and furniture polish can all be harmful to leather furniture. Do not apply these products in an attempt to clean the furniture or remove stains. Keep a leather-specific cleaner on hand for occasional cleaning and emergencies.  You may feel that buying a cleaner ahead of time is not a good use of your...


Wipe most decorative items and other objects with a microfiber cloth. Get dust out of electronics with compressed air and a vacuum. Sweep dust from crevices and small, fragile objects with a dry brush. Wash linens and soft toys. Vacuum any upholstered furniture in the room.

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Have a stack of dry microfiber cloths nearby, and dampen one or two of them. If you're dusting an item that's okay to get wet, like a ceramic vase, wipe it down with the damp microfiber cloth. When you're dusting things that can't get wet, like books, leather items, or other delicate objects, use one of the dry cloths, instead. Be sure to wipe down the leaves of all of your houseplants with a damp cloth. When dust builds up on your plants, it blocks the pores on the leaves, so they can't filter CO2 out of the air as effectively. Wipe down the outside of your electronics with a dry cloth, then use a brush attachment on your vacuum to suck up any dust that's gathered around vents or the power cord. Finally, use a can of compressed air to blow out any dust or other debris from small crevices, like between the keys on your computer keyboard.  Always unplug any device before you clean it. Wipe down electronic screens, including your television, with a dry microfiber cloth or a dryer sheet. The dryer sheet will help dispel static electricity that can make it hard to remove dust. If you have small figurines, decor with elaborate carvings or molding, or anything else that's difficult to wipe down, carefully go over them with a dry paintbrush. Use the corner of the brush to get the bristles into any crevices that would be hard to reach with just a cloth. If you used a paintbrush to clean your window screens, you can use that one here! Just use your hand to brush away any dust that might be left on the bristles. If it's possible, wash any bedding, curtains, plush toys, slipcovers, or other fabric items that are machine washable. These soft surfaces can hold onto a lot of dust, and putting them through the wash will remove a lot of that.  Vacuum your curtains with your brush attachment if you can't wash them. Tumble-dry the linens in your dryer or hang them to air dry. However, wait to replace them until you've finished dusting the rest of the room. Otherwise, they might collect more dust as you clean. If you have any...


Wipe off any remaining wet paint that may still be on the fabric. Rinse your garment using your washing machine.

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The detergent method will work best if it hasn't set in completely yet. It's also the easiest to pull off on the fly, as most people should have detergent on hand, whether you're at home or at work. If you don't have any detergent available, you can try using bar or liquid soap. It may not be as effective, but you definitely want to attempt to clean the fabric before the paint dries. Running your stained article of clothing through a wash cycle can often get rid of the stain completely. You've loosened the paint using the detergent, so your washing machine will work much more efficiently. Without pre-treating the garment, however, the washing machine might not be able to fully eliminate your stain. Certain washable or water-based paints may not require this step.  Don't wash your paint stained garment with another article of clothing, as the paint will bleed onto your other clothes. You don't want to damage your entire wardrobe just to save a single item. If the stain is still present after a wash cycle, place a bit of acetone on the front of the garment and blot with a clean sponge. Do not put acetone on fabrics that also contain acetate or triacetate, as it will melt these fabrics on contact.


Wipe off your sink and countertops to remove food debris. Spray a cleaning product onto all surfaces to sterilize them. Dry washed surfaces with a paper towel or cloth right away. Clean Use bleach or ammonia if you need a stronger way to clean drains.

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Remove all solid and liquid debris by washing your countertop on occasion. Mop up any spills as soon as you notice them. Sweep up food particles as well. Wipe these surfaces with a clean, wet sponge after using them. Keeping up with cleaning is very important when you have a gnat problem. Most treatments eliminate adult gnats, but then the young gnats find new food and water sources hidden in your kitchen. Use a nonabrasive cleaner that is safe for the surface you plan on treating. Try making your own cleaner by mixing about 1 teaspoon (4.9 mL) of white vinegar into 1 cup (240 mL) of water. This will take care of any lingering particles that could attract gnats. Consider sterilizing your kitchen after each use. Your sink and countertops can collect a lot of debris, especially after you prepare food. Remove the possibility of standing water right away. If you treat leftover liquid right away, the gnats won’t have a chance to lay new eggs there. Keep some clean towels handy whenever you’re cleaning and disinfecting your kitchen. Have them available in case of spills as well.  Be aware of new spills in your kitchen, whether it’s from food, leaks, or any plants you happen to have there. Regular cleaning will prevent gnats from coming back. Pay attention to areas around the sink. They may fill with water after you do the dishes. If you notice mold or mildew, clean and dry these areas more often. Fix leaks right away, such as by plugging or replacing parts. Leaks not only create the right conditions for gnats, but they can cause damage to your home. out your garbage disposal to remove stuck food. Run plenty of water through the garbage disposal to start cleaning it. Then, try pouring about 12 ice cubes down the drain, grinding them up with the disposal unit. Follow up with ½ of a cup (257 g) of rock salt and then a couple of citrus peels to finish sterilizing the drain. This will take care of any gnats living in the disposal unit. Another option is to pour 1 cup (240 mL) of white vinegar down the drain, followed by...


Wipe the area clean with a fresh rag.

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After the stain is gone, wipe away the remaining solution with a clean, wet rag. Then, dry the area with a clean cloth.


Wipe the area with a dry mop or duster. Use warm distilled water and mild dish soap. Work in a methodical way so you don’t miss any spots. Dry the granite thoroughly to avoid water spots.

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Before you begin cleaning your granite tile, it is important to remove surface dirt. Doing this will keep any bits of grit or grout from scratching your granite, which can trap bits of dirt deep in the stone and dull its finish. If your granite is just a little dirty, first try cleaning it with warm distilled water and some mild dish soap. Dilute a few drops of the soap in a bucket of water, wringing a soft cloth to remove excess water before each wipe of the granite tile. Standing water can stain granite if left too long.   Avoid soaps with lots of dyes and fragrances. Dyes can stain light colored granite. Microfiber cloths you can buy at the hardware store specifically designed for stone are best. Don’t ever use anything abrasive such as scrubbing sponges or steel wool to clean granite. Though the stone is durable, it is vulnerable to scratching. For example, you could clean all the tiles left to right in one row before moving to the next. If your granite tiles are on the floor, be sure not to clean yourself into a corner. Use circular motions to dry, as if buffing a car. If you don’t have a soft cloth, you can use an old T-shirt without screen prints.


Wipe the board down with a damp cloth to remove wax, salt, and sand. Let the board dry overnight. Cut away any rotten foam from inside of the crack. Sand the crack with rough grit sandpaper down to the fiberglass cloth.

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Before you can repair it, the board needs to be clean. Simply wipe it with a towel and freshwater to collect any sand or salt, and make sure all of the board wax is off of the surface, especially around the crack. Use a cotton swab to clean out the crack. Any particulate left inside or around the crack can get caught in the resin and cause the repair to be weaker. To prevent the repair resin from trapping water and causing mold to form, set the board out and let it dry completely. After at least 6 hours, check that the board is dry, and inspect the crack. Before you begin working, squeeze the crack to make sure no water leaks out. If the crack is still wet, or the board feels heavier in that area, allow it to dry for another 1-2 days before beginning your repairs. If your board has been cracked for a while, or a lot of water got into the crack, you might have some rotten foam inside of your board. Look for brown or black foam that is soft to the touch. Use a sharp knife to slice through the foam in straight lines, and throw away any rotten foam that you remove. If you're having trouble seeing the foam, shine a light into the crack. Normally, you will be able to see the color of the foam inside the board. Rub a rough sandpaper over the crack in the board, sanding an area slightly larger than the crack. Once the fiberglass cloth under the outer coating of the board becomes visible, stop sanding. Sanding a larger area is important because you want to blend the resin in with the surface of the board. If you don't do this, you run the risk of only repairing part of the crack.


Wipe the brass with a soft, damp cloth. Buff gently with a dry cloth. Assess the brass.

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Run a soft rag under lukewarm water. Wring out the excess, then wipe the brass with the damp cloth using small circular motions.  Lacquer is a protective coating, and for lacquered pieces, most mild to moderate dullness can be buffed out with physical means rather than chemical ones. In fact, if you use a household cleaner or other type of polish, you risk ruining the lacquer coating. Use a soft cotton or terrycloth rag for best results. If the lacquered brass still appears somewhat dull, take a dry cloth and buff the surface for several minutes, working across the entire surface in small, circular motions.  For this part of the process, you could consider using either cotton cloth or jewellers' cloth. Jewellers' cloth has an outer layer of soft flannelet and an inner layer of flannel with bits of hematite embedded into it. This hematite acts as a fine abrasive. Note that if you do use jewellers' cloth, you should buff with the abrasive side first and follow up by buffing with the non-abrasive side to remove and residue left behind by the hematite. At this point, the brass should appear fairly polished. If it still looks tarnished and dull, however, you may need to strip the lacquer completely and clean the brass more thoroughly.


Wipe the case with a clean cloth. Put a drop of leather cleaner on the cloth. Wipe the leather. Wipe off excess cleaner.

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This will remove the dirt and graphite that has built up inside of it. It’s better to remove it now so that the grime doesn’t get pushed further into the material. Leather cleaner can be bought in stores. Leather easily absorbs chemicals, so it helps to get one of these cleaners since they won’t cause internal damage to the case. Avoid vinegar and olive oils, as these leave stains and crack the leather. Essential lemon oil or natural baby soap with no color additives are better options. Using the cloth with the cleaner, wipe in a circular motion. Spread the cleaner over the entirety of the leather. The circular motion allows you to work in the cleaner and ensure that it covers the whole surface. If it looks like you’ve left too much, pick it up with a clean cloth. This helps the leather last longer since it doesn’t absorb more cleaner than it needs. Afterwards, it should look ready for use again.


Wipe the exterior surfaces with an old rag dipped in soapy water. Rinse any soap away with a gentle spray from a hose. Use glass or stainless cleaner to polish any stainless steel surfaces.

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Clean all surfaces of the grill thoroughly to minimize the chances of corrosion due to food bits clinging to the metal.  Pay close attention to the areas around the knobs to remove any drips that may have accumulated. Wipe the side panels or burners with the soapy water as well. Keep spots from forming due to soap bubbles by thoroughly rinsing the outside of your grill after cleaning. If your grill has a stainless steel lid or cabinets, spray a glass cleaner on the surface and wipe with a paper towel to keep the surfaces looking shiny.


Wipe the surface with vinegar.

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Dampen a clean cloth with distilled white or cleaning vinegar.  Wipe the cloth around the smooth surface you wish to clean several times. This technique works well when removing permanent marker from smooth stovetops.


Wipe up accidents as soon as possible. Clean the floor with an enzymatic cleaner. Apply hydrogen peroxide to spots that are still discolored. Refinish a small area of the floor, if necessary. Refinish

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If you see an accident happen or come across a mess, don't wait to wipe it up. Cleaning it off the floor will reduce the chances that it has soaked into the wood floor. How long it takes for an accident to stain wood floors depends on a variety of factors, including the type of wood floors you have, the sealant they are coated in, and how long ago the floors were sealed. Use a cleaner that is specifically made to clean up pet messes. While other cleaners will remove the pet mess, enzymatic cleaners remove the smell of the urine and feces, which will help minimize the chance of the pet using the same spot repeatedly. When a cat or dog uses a particular spot to go to the bathroom once they can be more drawn to that spot again because the smells left behind signal that it is where they should be going. Hydrogen peroxide can neutralize the urine and lighten the wood where the stain darkened it. Pour enough hydrogen peroxide directly on the stain to saturate it well and create a small puddle on the stained area. Allow the hydrogen peroxide to sit for at least 24 hours, then blot the area dry using a clean cloth. If you cannot get the stain out of the floor by cleaning it, you may need to do some refinishing. Sand the area lightly using fine grain sandpaper. Remove the top layer of varnish or stain from the floor. Then re-stain the wood floor using an appropriate varnish or stain. It can be difficult to match the color and finish of your floor unless you know the exact products that were used initially. the whole floor if there are numerous, embedded stains. If you have several areas that have been discolored because of pet accidents, it may be best to refinish the whole floor. This will allow you to get rid of all of the stains and to put the same stain and finish on the whole floor, making it look brand new. Refinishing an entire area of wood flooring can be a time-intensive process. It requires sanding and resealing the entire surface, so all items need to be removed from the floor and you will need several days...


Wipe up any spills immediately. Avoid vinegar and ammonia. Never use a steam cleaner on your engineered hardwood floor. Never use an abrasive cleaning brush. Wipe up any liquid residue immediately.

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Accidents happen, but if you’ve spilled water—or any other type of liquid—on your engineered hardwood floor, it should be cleaned up immediately. If you allow a liquid spill to sit on hardwood for any length of time, it could soak in and damage the hardwood or the veneer. This could also cause a permanent stain. When you’re cleaning up spills, blot gently at the spills to wipe them up. Do not scrub at the spills, or use forceful pressure to clean the area. If you do, you’ll risk warping the hardwood veneer or pressing liquid down into the wood and causing damage. While these abrasive liquids will clean certain surfaces, they will likely damage your engineered hardwood floor. Ammonia and vinegar could erode or mar the veneer surface on top of the upper layer of hardwood. While a steam cleaner can be a useful tool for cleaning a carpet floor, it should never be used on engineered hardwood. The steam can damage the wood surface by forcing water into the veneer and the top layer of hardwood. A steam cleaner can potentially cause more damage to the hardwood than other forms of cleaning that use excess water (such as an overly wet mop). Since a steam cleaner will force moisture down into the wood, it may damage lower layers of plywood or fiberboard. Tough, abrasive cleaning products—such as steel wool or a wire-bristle cleaning brush—should never be used on a hardwood floor. These products will almost certainly scratch or otherwise damage the veneer on top of the hardwood. Although engineered hardwood floors are more resistant to liquids than traditional hardwood floors, you should still never leave water or any liquid cleaner standing on your floor. Dry the floor with a towel if excess liquid cleaner remains after you’ve finished cleaning the floor. Similarly, if you use a mop that is dripping wet, you’ll risk damaging the top layer of hardwood. If the wood absorbs a substantial amount of water, it may warp or distort. Dry up all water after you’ve mopped the floor.


Wipe up the mess with the diaper first. Continue wiping. Prevent diaper rash. Put on the new diaper. Get rid of the dirty diaper. Check the baby. Wash up.

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Once the baby is lying on their back on the changing table, open the diaper so that it lies flat on the table. If the front part of the diaper is clean, use that section to wipe up as much mess off of the baby as you can. Then quickly fold the diaper in half so the baby's butt is on top of the clean outside section of the diaper.  If the entire inside of the baby's diaper is dirty, do not try to use it to wipe the baby. Instead, fold the diaper in half right away and move on to the next step. If the diaper is dirty on the outside, consider putting a clean diaper or an open baby wipe under the baby while you clean them. This will help contain the mess while you're working to get them clean. Once you've gotten as much mess out of the way as you can with the diaper, it's time to keep wiping with some baby wipes or damp cloths.  If necessary, gently roll your baby onto one side, then the other, to thoroughly clean their skin. If you have a baby girl, be sure to always wipe her from front to back in order to help prevent vaginal and urinary tract infections. Male babies can also get penile infections, so clean the penis as thoroughly as you would clean a dirty finger. Do not pull back the baby’s foreskin if he is uncircumcised. Avoid using any wipes that contain alcohol or fragrances, as these can cause skin irritation.  For a more thorough clean, always rinse your baby's bottom with some warm water. You can do this at the sink or tub, or by moistening a towel.  If the baby has feces on their legs and/or back, it's best to give them a quick bath before putting them into a clean diaper. In order to prevent your baby from getting a painful rash, it's a good idea to make sure his skin is completely dry before you put a new diaper on. You can also apply petroleum jelly or ointment to his skin in order to prevent irritation. To dry your baby's skin, you can use a towel or dry cloth, give them some time to air dry, or even use a hair dryer on a cool setting. Once the old diaper is off and your baby is wiped down, put on...


Wipe your cat’s paws with a damp cloth to keep them clean. Trim the hair around your cat’s paws if it is long-haired. Take your cat to a veterinarian if its paws are irritated by the litter.

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If you notice that litter is clumping on your cat’s paws, it’s important to remove it to keep your cat healthy. Hold your cat's paw in your hand and use a soft, clean cloth and warm water to wipe the litter away from the top of the paw and on the paw pad. Make sure to also clean in between your cat’s toes.  This also prevents your cat from ingesting the litter when it grooms. Cleaning your cat’s paws also provides a good opportunity to check for any irritated skin, cuts, or scrapes. Carefully trim the fur around your cat’s paws and ankles. Use a pair of small pet grooming scissors or take your cat to a professional groomer.  Long-haired cats can be particularly prone to getting litter stuck in their paws due to their long fur.  Some long-haired cats are irritated by the fur that grows between their toes, which means that trimming it can solve more than one problem. You can tell that your cat is irritated by the fur if it licks between its toes obsessively. An ongoing problem with litter clumping in your cat’s paws can cause its skin to be irritated. If you notice that your cat is walking differently or if the skin looks tender, take it to a veterinarian for treatment and advice.


Wipe your hard drive of all personal information. Remove the hard drive from the computer entirely. Drill holes through the hard drive. Dispose of the hard drive appropriately.

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Remove all of your personal information by reformatting your hard drive, transferring your files to an external hard drive or USB drive and then deleting them, or having your hard drive overwritten.  Transferring and deleting your files is the easiest way to wipe your hard drive, and requires no outside help. It is not the most secure method of removal. Reformatting your hard drive can be done by going into your computer’s settings and selecting a “wipe” or “format” option for your hard drive. Using File Shredder is the DIY way to overwrite and format a disk. Make sure to do it on a different computer, as it will also delete system files, basically like if you just got a new drive. Overwriting your hard drive is typically done by a computer professional for a fee. If your computer has a lot of personal or financial information, this may be the safest option. Once you’ve finished removing your information to the best of your ability, remove the bottom panel of your computer to expose the computer’s inner workings. Take your hard drive out, including the metal case typically surrounding the disc and circuit boards.  Most computers are held together with small screws. Remove these screws, and separate the bottom panel from your computer. To locate your hard drive, look for what appears to be a small, circular disk, much like a CD. Although the drive has been wiped, you want to be sure nothing remains and is able to be accessed. Using a drill bit of any size, drill a hole through the hard drive in at least one area. For added security, you can drill multiple holes in your hard drive, depending on how large the drive itself is. Place all of the components of your hard drive into a box and dispose of them according to your city codes. If you are not sure what your city codes are, you can contact a local electronics store and ask how to properly dispose of everything.


Wipe your hard drive. Remove your computer battery. Remove all of the keyboard keys. Unscrew the bottom of the computer from the rest of the body. Dismantle the circuit boards. Remove your hard drive. Set aside working parts for recycling/reuse.

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This is particularly important when you are selling or donating computers or computer parts. Wipe your hard drive yourself or take it to a professional, as you do not want a stranger to stumble across your private, personal information.  Most computer repair stores also have the ability to wipe hard drives. You can also contact your computer’s manufacturer for more information on how to wipe your hard drive effectively, or a technician who can do it for you. If you are hoping to recycle your whole computer rather than individual pieces, you can stop at this step and move on to donating your intact computer. Most recycling programs must recycle or dispose of batteries separately, so removing and disposing of your computer’s battery is both responsible and convenient for the company you are donating to. Keyboard keys can be used to replace broken keyboards, or they can be reused to create crafts. Whichever your preference is, removing them from the board will give you the option of selling, donating, or repurposing the keys. To properly take your computer apart, you will need to remove the bottom piece from your computer, as this is where all of the computer’s innards are stored. Screwing the bottom from the rest of the computer will give you access to everything, including the hard drive. Computers are filled with circuit boards. Some have a single, large board, while others will have numerous small boards. If your computer is in good working condition, these boards can be set aside and sold or donated to fix broken computers. Although you’ve already gone through the step of wiping your hard drive, you can further ensure your information’s security by removing the drive altogether. You can remove the hard drive and keep it for your personal records or you can destroy it. All working parts can be gathered together and set aside to be recycled. You could also reuse them yourself, or gift them to someone who works with computers.  Check your local recycling center for needs and requirements. If you do decide to...


Wipe your vagina from front to back whenever you use the restroom. Wash the outer parts of your vagina Wash your vaginal area after sexual intercourse. Avoid using douches, scented vaginal wipes, and deodorants. Change your pad or tampon every 4 to 6 hours during your period.

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Since your vagina is located near your anus, it’s important to wipe front to back after urinating or defecating. Fold a 12 in (30 cm) piece of toilet paper several times to create a small rolled up piece. Press the toilet paper between your labia near where your urethra ends. Wipe back towards your anus and over it, if needed, and then discard the toilet paper. Repeat as needed until your vagina and anus are clean.  Use soft, white, unscented toilet paper that does not contain dyes or other irritating chemicals. Even after urination, wiping from front to back will help to keep bacteria and fecal matter away from your vagina. with mild soap and warm water only. Avoid washing out the inside of your vagina. Wet the outside with warm (not hot) running water. Then, apply a small amount of mild soap to your vagina to cleanse it. Rinse away the soap completely, and then use your fingers to spread the vaginal lips apart. Let warm water flow over your vagina to cleanse between your labia and over your clitoris. After you’re finished washing, dry off with a clean, dry towel.  Don’t use any soaps with perfumes or dyes in them. Stick with a mild, unscented soap or a feminine wash. Don’t scrub your vagina. You can use a clean washcloth to wash the outside of it, but be gentle. Never reuse the same towel again after using it to dry off your vagina. Bodily fluids and residue from condoms and other intimate products can cause infection, irritation, and odors. Take a shower after having sex and wash your vagina as you normally would. Apply mild soap and rinse it with warm water. Then, allow the warm water to run over your vagina as you hold the labia apart with your fingers. Dry off with a clean dry towel. Your vagina is self-cleaning because of the fluids it secretes, so there’s no need to clean the inside of it or use scented products on it. These products can upset the delicate balance of bacteria in your vagina and cause irritation. If you’ve noticed an unusual smell that bothers you, see your gynecologist to find out if...


Wish them luck. Note the date of move.

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Any time you talk to a villager by pressing “A,” there is a small chance that villager will tell you they're thinking of moving. When you are faced with that news and you are okay with that, choose the option that essentially wishes them luck with their move. The text will always be different; it is the second option on the list (the first option attempts to convince him to stay). That villager will then tell you when he or she plans to move out. This is a relevant date to remember when initiating the trade process, so you may want to write it down.  Once your villager has started packing up, which you will be able to see when you visit his or her house as they will be surrounded by boxes, he or she will be ready for trade. You can skip ahead to the day before the day they move so you don't have to wait.


Withhold food if your dog is vomiting or has diarrhea. Make sure your dog has access to water. Introduce a bland diet for 1-2 days. Limit your dog’s exercise and play time. Monitor your dog’s stool and urine output. Monitor your dog’s symptoms closely. Don’t hesitate to call your vet.

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For puppies and dogs older than 6 months who have previously been healthy, you can withhold all food for up to 24 hours if the primary symptoms are vomiting or diarrhea. This also includes treats and rawhides. Never withhold water from a sick dog, unless he vomits it up. If this happens, contact your veterinarian for advice. After you withhold food for 24 hours, and your dog is behaving more normally, you can gradually introduce a bland diet for 1-2 days. A bland diet for a dog includes one part easily digested protein and 2 parts an easily digested starch.  Typical protein sources include cottage cheese or chicken (no skin or fat) or boiled hamburger. A good starch is plain cooked white rice.  Feed your dog one cup daily (split into 4 servings 6 hours apart) per 10 pounds of weight. Make sure your dog gets plenty of rest by restricting how much exercise and play time he gets. Take him out on a leash to relieve himself, but don’t let him play while he feels poorly. This is especially important if he is limping. Pay attention to how much your dog is defecating and urinating while he is ill. If you normally let him outside by himself, use a leash while he’s ill so that you can watch how much he urinates or defecates. Do not punish your dog if it has an accident inside the house—stool, urine or vomiting. They cannot help it if they are sick and may hide from you if they are punished. Make sure you keep a very close eye on your dog, in case the symptoms get worse. Do not leave your dog on his own. Do not leave him alone for the day or weekend. If you must leave the house (for example, you need to go to work), have someone check on your dog every 2 hours. If you can’t arrange this, call your veterinary clinic to see if they do monitoring in the clinic. Symptoms can worsen quickly, or new or more serious symptoms can occur rapidly. If you’re unsure about your dog’s symptoms, or if he seems to be getting worse, call your vet for advice.


Witness the changes from an outsider’s point-of-view. Photograph the journey. Explore new fashions. Do self-compassion meditation to battle negative thinking. Start a yoga practice. Perform  self-massage. Be intimate with your partner in ways that feel comfortable to you. Talk to your baby regularly throughout the day.

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If you ever find yourself sulking about your body's changes during pregnancy or engaging in negative self-talk, take a step back and marvel at the process. Look at yourself how your partner, mother, or best friend might view you: as radiant and beautiful.  You might also try to channel the feeling you used to get when you saw pregnant women— you were probably psyched about the idea that they were growing a tiny human. If it helps, watch a documentary on pregnancy in humans and animals, noticing how the mother's body adjusts to accommodate the infant. Getting this detached view of the process can help you learn to celebrate it and not resent it. Seeing how your body changes over time can help you view pregnancy in a new light, so start documenting with pictures. Modeling for photos can help you see your body in a new light. Take monthly photos of your bump to show how your baby is growing. You might also get all glammed-up for a professional photo shoot alone or with your partner. Embrace your changing body by going out and picking up a few pieces of maternity clothing that help you feel more beautiful and confident. Don't assume the clothes will be boring--there have been amazing trends in maternity clothing that help expectant mothers feel more fashionable.  Be sure not to splurge too much on maternity clothes, since your body will steadily change throughout your pregnancy. Look for simple lines and expandable fabric. Lie down comfortably and place one hand on your heart as a reminder to be kind to yourself. Take a few  deep breaths. Starting at your head, work your way through your entire body, bringing awareness to the different sensations or thoughts that arise. When critical thoughts pop up, return your focus to the hand on your heart and radiate loving-kindness to yourself. This compassionate body scan is a great meditation exercise to help you develop more positive thoughts about your body during pregnancy. Yoga allows you to develop a connection between your mind and body, which may help you to think...


Work as an unskilled laborer if you do not want to attend school. Receive a high school diploma or GED if you want to pursue a degree or certificate. Attend a trade school if you want to focus on a specific skill. Apply for an apprenticeship to develop specialized skills on the job. Obtain certifications if it’s required for the job you want to do. Receive a bachelor’s degree if you want to manage or run a company.

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Entry level construction jobs provide individuals with the opportunity to gain practical on the job experience and training. On construction sites, unskilled laborers are often responsible for cleaning and completing simple manual labor. These jobs, which are often titled “general labor” or “construction labor,” may not be your dream construction job, but they often lead to more skilled positions. Keep in mind that to apply for these positions, you often do not need a high school diploma or GED. To obtain a skilled construction job or pursue an advanced education in your trade, you need to complete high school or receive a GED. While completing these degrees, make an effort to take relevant courses. These include classes in Mathematics, Physics, and English. If your school offers courses in shop, welding, or specific trades, consider taking these as well. Trade schools provide students with the technical knowledge and practical experience to flourish within the construction industry. Students may enroll in trade school courses while still in high school. If your high school does not offer courses related to the trades, apply for them at a local community college or online. Trade school programs often take 1 to 2 years to complete, but some may take longer. Some jobs you may be able to find with a trade school degree include:  Architect Construction site manager Carpenter Plumber Electrician General laborer Sheet metal worker HVAC technician After completing your high school diploma or GED, you can apply to apprenticeship programs through a local union training center. As an apprentice, you will increase your knowledge of the construction industry and develop specialized skills. During each year of this five year program, you will need to log 2,000 hours on various job sites and 144 hours in the classroom. Your pay will gradually increase throughout the apprenticeship. Check for apprenticeship programs in your area on this website: https://nabtu.org/apprenticeship-and-training/ Certification programs provide...


Work closely with your advisor to balance your course load. Understand how much time you’ll need to spend studying. Read your syllabus carefully. Sit in the front of the classroom. Take advantage of your professors' office hours.

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If you are planning to take 12 course credits, make sure they aren’t all engineering courses. Give your brain a break from math by adding a humanities course to the mix. Your advisor can help you to balance your schedule between engineering and non-engineering courses. Most professors expect that for every engineering course credit you take, you will spend 2-4 hours studying. So, if you have two engineering courses in a standard semester, that’s six credits. That means you will need to spend an average of 18 hours studying outside of class per week. Make sure you have the time before you commit to the courses! Find out up front what the expectations will be. Make a note of important items, such as:  The policy on tardiness and absences. If a professor will fail you after three tardies or unexcused absences, you’ll want to pay close attention to be present and on time. Assignment due dates. Is there homework due weekly? Daily? Make sure you understand how the coursework is structured. Tests and test dates. If you aren’t a good test-taker, and the course grade is solely based on three test scores, this might not be the right class for you. This will eliminate the urge to fall asleep or get distracted. You will also be able to see and hear better, and it'll be easier to ask questions. Your professors will also be more motivated to see you succeed if you appear to be making an effort. You can usually find these at the top of your syllabus. Don’t be afraid to connect with your professors and ask them questions! They want to help you learn. And sometimes they can give you extra clues on what to expect to see on the test.


Work exercise into your lifestyle. Make your exercises last. Invest in sports or hobbies that burn calories. Try yoga or Pilates.

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It shouldn't be a chore! Little changes make a big difference, and will keep the weight from coming back. Starting a healthy exercise plan now will last long into your adult years. Walk, jog or cycle to school instead of driving. Run with your dog. Do crunches during commercial breaks on TV. Cycle with friends and family.  Plan your week. Set three days where you do intense exercise like running or a spin class at the gym. The other three days, do low-intensity exercise like a long walk. The other day is your day off. Don't spend your days sitting on the couch watching TV. Try exercising! Fast weight loss will only be achieved with diet and exercise. One exercise session should last at least 30 minutes to an hour. You should burn around 400 calories in a high-intensity workout session. If you aren't sweating while doing a high-intensity workout, you're not working hard enough. You're working hard enough if you're sweating profusely, out of breath, and thirsty.   Stretch! Be sure to stretch before and after you exercise.  Stretching also helps your growing muscles not to bunch up so you might look like a weightlifter. If you did stretch right, it would have an effect of a ballerina. It's hard to lose weight when you're injured. However, stretching and yoga might help. Do some weight training. Muscles burn calories by just being there. The more muscles you have, the faster you'll lose weight. Sports are great because they tap into our competitive energy, getting us to dig deeper than we normally might have. Don't worry about what people say, or whether you're "skilled" enough to join a team; just find a group of girls doing something that you're interested in, and ask if you can join. Here are some activities that are big-time calorie busters:   Spinning/elliptical trainer: Spinning or using the elliptical burns the most calories for the average U.S. woman, who weighs 163 pounds. The average female burns 841 calories per hour spinning or doing the elliptical.  Downhill skiing: Downhill skiing is another great...


Work for a hospital. Start your own practice. Be part of an orthopedic group. Function as part of a multi-specialty group.

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Currently only about eight percent of orthopedic surgeons are employed solely by hospitals, although that number is predicted to increase over the next few years. Hospital employment is good for surgeons who want predictable hours and freedom from the stress of managing their own practices. However, working for a hospital means your schedule and activities are dictated. About 20 percent of orthopedic surgeons today run their own practices, which is a lot more than the eight percent who work in hospitals. Private solo practices are good for surgeons who want to make a name for themselves, want freedom to dictate their own schedules, and who don't mind paperwork. Having a solo practice means you need to also have head for business, since a solo practice essentially means running a small business. The vast majority--42 percent--of orthopedic surgeons work in private practice, which means they either work as part of an orthopedic group or part of a multi-specialty group. As part of an orthopedic group, you share the business management with other surgeons and can find others to cover shifts. The downside of joining a group of surgeons in the same specialty is that it reduces potential for making a strong name for yourself. Some orthopedic surgeons join practices that offer other specialties in orthopedics, such as spine, sports medicine, and hip surgeons. Multi-specialty offices tend to pay surgeons at a higher rate than other locations. For example, orthopedic spine surgeons in multi-specialty groups got paid over $622,000 in 2009, while those in single-specialty practices made around $605,000.


Work for an airline. Find someone who works for an airline. Fly standby.

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Flight crews and most other airline employees receive free flight benefits. The perks range depending on the airline. Some airlines give two free flight tickets for their employees each year, and other airlines give discounted tickets that can be as much as a 90% reduction off the full ticket price.  Southwest airline allows employees, spouses, eligible dependent children, and parents to fly on Southwest planes for free. American Airlines allow all of their employees to travel for free in coach class. Some airlines will offer their employees flight vouchers for family and friends. In recent years, airlines have tightened their policies on these types of vouchers, but they are still out there.   Southwest Airlines has a guest pass program that gives unregistered friends and family members of employees a chance to fly for free. American Airlines has a program that allows employees to register family members who can then fly for free. Some airline companies give their employees buddy passes to hand out to family and friends. However, the passes are only good as standby tickets. This means that you can only fly if there is an empty seat on the plane.  Delta offers buddy passes to their employees.  When using a buddy pass, you are seen as a representative of the airline. You are required to have a relaxed dress code, and maintain professional behavior.  Be prepared for the flight you want to take to be full. You may have to wait for several flights before you find one that has room for you. It is best not to check any luggage when flying standby because you don't know which flight out you will take. Fly during slower times to increase your chances of making it on the plane.


Work from the bottom up and inside out. Cut away any deadwood or jutting branches. Thin the tree of excess branches. Direct any new areas of growth at the bud. Replant the maple

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Begin pruning at the very bottom of the maple near the center, then make your way to the outside of the tree. Slowly work from the bottom to the top, starting from the center and outwards each time. Inspect your tree for dead or unhealthy branches, as well as branches that jut out and ruin your plant's shape. Clip away these branches with pruning shears or loppers, depending on the branch size.  Choose pruning shears for smaller branches and loppers for larger ones. Deadwood branches are leafless in warm seasons and, throughout the year, grey with a brittle texture. Your tree's branches will grow best if they have space to grow. To reduce the tree's bulk, use your shears or loppers to remove any overlapping branches. Thin the tree as evenly as possible to give it a balanced look. Overlapping branches can rub against each other, which chips their bark and leaves them prone to diseases or pests. Tree buds often become dominant branches later on. If you notice any buds, press them between your fingers and point them in the direction you want them to grow. You can also rub away any buds with your fingernails if they are in an awkward area or may contribute to overgrowth later on. Maple leaf buds are small and red, and they jut out from the tree branches. if it gets too big. If the Japanese maple gets too large for its area, do not cut down the top or excessively prune the sides. Instead, hire a landscaper to transplant your tree somewhere it will have room to grow. Do not transplant trees with a trunk diameter larger than 2 inches (5.1 cm) by yourself. Unless your maple tree is young, you will need to hire a landscaper.


Work hard. Listen to the teacher. Stop procrastinating Set aside time to study. Responsibly complete your work.

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Getting good grades in school is not a walk in the park. A+ Grades cannot be summoned with a flick of the wrist and poof!, there is a grade you can be proud of. Make sure you understand that. This doesn't mean talking while listening...no, they don't go together. Listening ultimately lets information or directions to come right in, so you don't have to get up and ask the teacher what he/she said and make them annoyed. Remember the rule: "Silence is Golden, Duct Tape is Silver" . This gets you nowhere, and just makes you feel overwhelmed or hopeless. It's not worth it! When a test is coming, actually study for it. Yeah, maybe you thought you remembered everything, except when you're on the test and notice you forgot Einstein's theory of Relativity or who the second king of Kush was. Studying can almost always stop this from happening. Pick a night you're free and devote it to finding a good way of studying, taking notes, etc. Studying with friends can help tremendously, as long as you can work and accomplish tasks efficiently without getting side-tracked. Probably the most obvious rule. Get your brain going and get that work done! What do you think the teacher's going to grade? So sit down, and start completing that homework!