Snip away the flower buds. Prune your dogwood to encourage flowering in early summer.

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Cut off the buds at the tip of each branch to redirect energy to buds on the side of the branch. By removing a singe bud, you encourage the development of multiple buds, leading to a fuller setting of flowers. These buds can either be snipped off with shears or pinched off by hand. June is generally considered the best month for this type of pruning, but any time in the early summer will work. You should not snip buds off during the dormant season since doing so will cut the flowers off before they have the chance to open, rather than simply redirecting the energy. Do not wait too late into the summer, though, because doing so will not allow the buds to build up enough energy for new shoots and buds for the next year.


Snip fresh dill leaves as needed during the growing season. Cut the seed heads 2-3 weeks after they bloom to gather the seeds. Keep fresh leaves in the refrigerator for up to a week. Store dried dill leaves or seeds in an airtight container.

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Dill leaves should be harvested no later than 90 days after planting to get the best flavor, but you can use them as soon as they appear. Anytime you want a little dill in a recipe, just use garden shears to snip the leaves off of the plant, as close to the stem as possible. Dill that is grown indoors is usually ready to harvest after about 8 weeks. If you want to harvest the seeds from your dill, allow the plant to flower, then wait for a few weeks to give the seed heads time to develop. After you cut the seed heads, place the cuttings in paper or plastic bags and allow them to dry for a few weeks. The seeds will fall off when they’re ready to use. Dried dill seeds are often used in making pickles as well as to flavor soups and stews. To preserve the flavor of freshly-cut dill leaves, fold them in a damp paper towel, then place the paper towel into a plastic bag. For best results, place the bag in a vegetable crisper in your refrigerator. You can also place the fresh leaves in a resealable container in the freezer, where they’ll stay good for up to a year. Dried herbs, including the seeds, will stay good almost indefinitely, although their flavor will begin to fade over time. Good options for storing dried dill include resealable plastic bags or containers or jars with tight-fitting lids.


Snip half of the previous year’s growth in the winter. Cut branches that cross over the main stem. Cut back branches that are low to the ground. Prune old and dead branches. Cut diseased branches. Cut the branches down to 5 leaves in the summer. Repeat the process each year to maximize fruit yield.

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Start pruning your mature bushes sometime in the winter, when the plant is dormant and does not have any leaves or fruit. Find the main branches of the plant and locate the closest bud from the tip of each branch. Place the shears above the bud and close them to cut away the new growth. Cutting last year’s growth in half will result in stronger growth this year. Branches that cross over the main stem can reduce the airflow through the center of the plant, which can promote disease or rot. Cut these branches down over a bud with a sterilized pair of gardening shears. Crossing branches can also rub against the main stem, which can damage and weaken the plant. Branches that hang low to the ground are susceptible to excess moisture and are vulnerable to fungal diseases. Isolate low-hanging branches on your plant and cut them back, all the way to the main stem. This will also encourage the vertical and lateral growth of your plant. After 5 years, a branch will typically stop creating new fruit and will look gnarled with fewer buds on it. Cut back branches that are over 5 years old or that no longer yield new fruit.  After 3 years, gooseberry plants begin to produce fewer gooseberries. Clearing away old branches will make room for new growth. Branches may develop spots or flaking bark, known as cankers, which may be a sign of disease. To prevent the disease from spreading to the rest of your plant, cut back any branch that shows sign of disease down to the main stem of the plant. Canker is a fungal infection that kills the bark of gooseberry plants. Cut the branches down so that there are only 5 leaves on each of the leading branches in the first week of July. Typically, this is around ⅓ of the entire length of each branch. Even though it seems like you are pruning your gooseberry bush too much, it will actually encourage the growth of new fruit during the next season. Continue to prune your gooseberry during the winter and summer each year to prevent overgrowth and promote fruit growth.


Snip infected lower leaves to reduce spreading mildew. Provide good air circulation for your plants. Provide enough sunlight for your plants. Groom overcrowded plants. Avoid overhead watering.

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If you catch powdery mildew early on, you can prevent it from spreading by removing the infected leaves with a pair of shears or scissors. Don’t compost the leaves, as the mildew can spread through the compost and back onto other plants. Dispose of infected leaves in your trash so the mildew doesn’t spread. Powdery mildew thrives in humid weather. Try to plant your garden in a roomy bed that gets exposed to breezes. If possible, blow a fan on your plants on very hot, humid days. Move potted plants into open, outdoor areas in the summer if they are getting mildew inside. The fresh air will help reduce the recurrence of fungi infections. Too much shade will make your plant leaves not dry out enough after rain and waterings. The right amount of sun also makes plants stronger and less susceptible to infection. Plant each plant according to its individual sunlight requirements. If you live in an area that is frequently rainy or cloudy, choose plants that thrive in these conditions for your garden. Because plants need good air circulation, overcrowded plants are particularly susceptible to powdery mildew. Cut back extra growth on plants that block sunlight from other plants in your garden, and pull plants and leaves that are weak or dying every 2 weeks. If healthy plants seem to be competing for resources, transfer them to bigger pots or garden beds to allow them the air and sunlight they need. Allowing moisture to remain on leaves can contribute to powdery mildew. Water your plants close to the base, allowing the water to soak into the soil once before giving it a little more. Don’t water your outdoor plants on rainy days to avoid overwatering them.


Snip off a section of rhizome and relocate it. Pluck off and relocate plantlets that grow from the leaves. Leave it to propagate naturally, if desired.

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If you like the height of your Java fern’s leaves, but the plant itself is getting too wide for its spot, you can simply divide the plant and turn a single Java fern into a pair! All you need is a small, sharp pair of scissors.  Cut through the rhizome with the scissors, pull the sections apart, and attach one or both pieces to driftwood or stones. It’s OK if you have to pull off or cut away some of the roots in order to separate part of the rhizome from the wood or stone. They will grow back. In addition to growing from the rhizome, the Java fern has another neat trick for propagation. The black bumps you see on some of the leaves will eventually become new rhizomes with their own roots. Once these “plantlets” have their own roots growing from the new rhizomes, you can pluck, pinch, or cut them off and attach them to a new piece of wood or stone. If you prefer to let nature take its course, just leave the “plantlets” alone. Some of them will fall off and attach to another object in the tank. Some will fall off and grow while floating freely. And some won’t fall off but will keep growing while tethered, either by floating or by attaching to something else in the tank.


Snuggle with your partner to help bonding. Kiss or make out Give your partner a massage Surprise them with what they find under your clothes. Partake in some partner-focused foreplay.

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Snuggling is a great romantic activity and it doesn't take a lot of skill, preparation, or extra effort. It's also a great way to transition into just about any bedroom activity, from foreplay to a serious talk. Go slow on this step. Snuggle for a long time, at least 20 minutes, before moving on to other activities. Use the time instead to talk and caress their body gently, stroking their hair and running your finger along their collar-bone.  When you're snuggling is also a great time to talk about your relationship and your future, which can be really romantic for partners that have been together almost a year or more. Really, you can talk about anything you want to talk about. However, talking about needing to go to the grocery store on Saturday isn't very romantic. Just keep that in mind. Don’t schedule romance in bed or just outright say that you want to go have sex. Being romantic means being subtle, so you’ll need to either wait until you’re in bed as normal or find another way to get them in bed and set the tone for romance. Try flirting and then taking their hand and leading them to the bed. . If you think you've got kissing mastered and there's no room for improvement, think again. Everyone can always stand to get better with their technique and execution can be everything. Don't discount kissing and making out: both can be very romantic. Break the mold in terms of the kisses you're giving your partner right now in favor of something new and exciting. Get creative with your kisses. Kiss every freckle and mole. Put on lipstick and “draw” a heart with kisses. There are lots of ways to making kissing more romantic, sexy, and memorable. . Giving your partner a massage is a goldie but oldie when it comes to being romantic. Massages are very relaxing and a great way to lead in to other romantic activities. You don't even need to be very strong. A light touch in just the right places will still feel just as good. Try putting a bottle of massage oil (or baby oil, if that's easier to find) in a bowl of warm...


So you smoke a pack a day. Get someone to help you. Make a coin jar. Resist the temptation. Make a list. Keep working your way up.

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Take away one cigarette from that pack each day and throw it away. So one day you smoke 20, and the next 19, and so on. Once you get down to half the amount of smoking, or whatever it is, than you had before, you're ready for the next step. Alright, so keep doing half those cigarettes as you had before, or that one glass of wine a day as opposed to two. And get a family member or close friend to make sure you don't cheat and do more. Because after all, you're only cheating yourself. But you may still need some help. Get them to encourage you! Many people do this for cursing. Every time you smoke one more than you should (or cheat) you have to put a quarter or a dollar in the coin jar. When it fills up (which it shouldn't) donate the money to charity and start again. No one likes to lose money, right? So it'll break that habit. Just one cigarette wouldn't hurt, right? Wrong. You know you want it, but you shouldn't  have it. No, it's not right to cheat at any time. Be strict with yourself. Just stop buying it,and make sure that person is still helping you. Make a list of all the reasons why you shouldn't do or eat that addiction, and post it by your bedside, or in your wallet, or just somewhere you'd see it daily. That'll remind you. Or down, as the case may be. Smoke (or curse or drink or Tweet or whatever) less and less each day. Set yourself a goal every week. If you can't reach it, put more money in that jar. Have friends and family encourage you. Look at that list. You can do it!


Soak 2 4 by 8 ft (1.2 by 2.4 m) sheets of plywood in water to soften them. Lay sheets of plywood in 2 L-shapes. Tie one end of a piece of string to a pencil and anchor the other end. Draw a wide curve on both sets of plywood. Cut the plywood along the curve you drew. Stabilize the plywood sides with lumber. Nail in crossbraces along the curve. Lay the wet plywood on top of the crossbraces and nail it down. Finish with a piece of PVC at the top of the curve to act as the ledge.

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If you try to bend dry plywood into a curve for the Warped Wall, it will crack. Place the plywood in a pool or use spare pieces of wood to prop up the edges of a tarp. Hold the plywood in the water by placing a cinder block in the middle, and leave it there while you build the rest of the frame. These will eventually be the sides of your Warped Wall. The amount of plywood you will need will depend on the size you want your Warped Wall to be. On the show, the Warped Wall is 14 to 16 feet (4.3 to 4.9 m) high, but you can adjust the height to your preferences.  For most walls, 3 pieces of plywood will be enough. Laying the plywood in an L-shape will allow you to create a curve along the side of your wall. By tying the free end of the string to a fixed location, it will act as a compass, creating a circle as you travel around the center point. This will help you create the curve for your Warped Wall. The string should be long enough so that the pencil can sweep across the plywood in a gentle curve. If you don't have anything to tie the string to, have someone stand in one place and hold the string. After you draw the curve on the first set of plywood, arrange the second set so the string is anchored exactly the same distance away, and draw the same curve again. Use a saw to carefully cut both sets of plywood. Once this is done, you have the sides for your Warped Wall. Use 4 by 4 in (10 by 10 cm) or another heavy type of lumber to create a frame on your plywood. This will reinforce the plywood and will give the final structure more stability. Make sure you leave enough space between the frame and the edge of the sides for your plywood curve. Insert wooden boards cut the width of your wall all along the curve to attach the 2 sides of the wall together. Space these crossbraces out evenly along the length of the curve. About 8–10 inches (20–25 cm) should be sufficient. You can also add extra plywood to what will eventually be the top and bottom of your wall at this time.  The length of the crossbraces should be cut...


Soak a cotton ball in rubbing alcohol. Hold the cotton ball with tweezers and light it on fire. Hold the flaming cotton ball inside the cup with tweezers.

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Grab a sterile cotton ball with long medical tweezers. Dip the cotton ball into a dish of rubbing alcohol, allowing the alcohol to soak all the way through it.  Other flammable materials can be used instead of cotton. Common options include paper and dried herbs. Blot the cotton ball on some paper towel to get rid of extra rubbing alcohol. It should be wet but not dripping. Hold the cotton ball with the long tweezers. Using a lighter or candle, carefully light the cotton on fire. Make sure you do this away from the dish of rubbing alcohol, to avoid setting the dish on fire.  Make sure that the bottle of rubbing alcohol has been closed before you light the cotton. An open bottle is a highly dangerous fire hazard.  Keep other flammable materials away from your working area to further reduce the risk of unintended fires or burns. If the flame grows out of control, completely cover it in a non-flammable container to cut off oxygen and kill the fire. Take the cotton ball out of the cup after about 3 seconds, or when the glass feels warm. The flame will suck the oxygen out of the cup and allow it to suction to the patient’s skin. The glass should still be cool enough to hold in your bare hands.  Don’t let the cup get too hot, or it’ll burn you or your patient. If you are using multiple cups, continue holding the cotton with medical tweezers throughout the entire treatment. Do not let go of it until all cups have been applied. If you are only using one cup, you can release the cotton into the glass and allow it to burn out. Empty the glass before applying it to the skin.  Working with a flame is dangerous! Have a bowl of water at the ready to extinguish fire, and make sure you’re working over a flame-resistant surface, not the wooden table!


Soak and oil the bamboo skewers. Cut and skewer the potatoes. Cut the potatoes around the skewer. Gently stretch the potatoes. Set the skewered potatoes onto a deep baking dish. Prepare the seasoning. Brush the seasoned butter onto the potatoes. Bake the potato spirals for 30 to 40 minutes. Allow the potatoes to cool slightly before serving them.

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Soak four bamboo skewers in water for 40 to 60 minutes. This will keep them from burning in the oven. Once they are soaked, take them out, pat them dry, and rub some cooking oil onto them. This will make it easier to form the potato spirals. Cut one of the narrow ends off of a potato. Place it cut-side-down onto the cutting board. Push a skewer down through the other narrow end. Slide the potato onto the center of the skewer when you are done. Repeat this step for the other skewers and potatoes. Set the skewered potato down in front of you, oriented horizontally. Cut straight down into the right end of the potato; make sure that the tip of the knife is angled to the left. Start turning the skewer towards you as you cut the potato in a spiral. Wrap your hand around the right end of the potato. Gently pull your hand across the potato towards the other end. You may have to do this a few times until you get the trademark corkscrew shape. The dish needs to be narrow enough so that you can set the skewers over the edges. It also needs to be deep enough so that the potatoes don't touch the bottom. If you don't have such a baking dish, you can try setting the potatoes down onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper instead. Melt the butter in the microwave or in a little saucepan over the stove. Pour it into a small mixing bowl, then stir in the garlic, Italian season, salt, and pepper. You can do this with a fork or mini whisk. You can do this with a basting brush or a pastry brush. If you don't have either of those, you can carefully pour the butter over the potatoes instead. Be sure to rotate the potatoes so that they get evenly coated. After about 15 to 20 minutes, rotate the potatoes by turning the skewers. This will allow them to cook evenly on both sides. They are ready when they are cooked through and have crispy edges. After about 5 minutes, they are ready to eat. You can serve them as they are, or you can garnish them with a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese.


Soak dried out nontoxic markers in water to make liquid watercolor.

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Collect a handful of dried out markers that are a similar color. Read the label to make sure that they are nontoxic, then put them into a glass jar. Fill the jar with 1/2 cup (120 mL) of water, then leave it alone for 1 week. After 1 week, pull the markers out and use the paint. The water will evaporate, making the color darker. If the color is too dark, add more water.


Soak paper towels in paint thinner. Lay the paper towels over the Plasti Dip. Wait for the Plasti Dip to soak through the paper towel. Place the towels on a different section of Plasti Dip. Use a drywall scraper to remove the Plasti Dip. Wipe the remaining Plasti Dip with a thinner-soaked paper towel. Repeat treating the Plasti Dip with paint thinner. Wash the car with soap and water.

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Bring the vehicle into a well-ventilated area, such as a driveway, and put on a pair of gloves to protect your hands. Pour some paint thinner into a container. Get 2 or 3 paper towels completely damp. The trick is to get the paper towels as flat as possible. Treating the top side of the car is easy, but the ends require some work. Hold the towels in place as much as possible by clipping them to the frame with plastic clips. Watch the paper towels for any signs of change. Look for spots the same color as the Plasti Dip to form on the paper towel after a few minutes. When this happens, the Plasti Dip is soft enough to be removed. Carefully lift the paper towels off of the car. To speed up the removal process, lay the towels on other spots still covered in Plasti Dip. If the towels won’t stick, dampen them in more paint thinner. Go back to the spot you soaked with paint thinner earlier. Hold the drywall scraper flat against the car’s surface. Slide the scraper under the Plasti Dip to remove it. Wipe the gooey mess off the scraper with a clean paper towel or trash bag. Soak an extra paper towel in paint thinner. Use it to scrub the first area that had the paper towels over it. Scrubbing will remove any small Plasti Dip fragments and also help soften any large pieces left over. Continue soaking paper towels, scraping, and scrubbing to remove all the Plasti Dip. You may have to treat the same area a few times to completely clean away all the Plasti Dip. It’s tedious work, but it is a safe way to remove the Plasti Dip from a delicate area like the car’s body. The paint thinner should only affect the Plasti Dip, but to be sure, wash the car as soon as possible. Again, use a car-safe soap and rinse it off when you’re finished. Your car should be back to its original condition.


Soak the bandage in water. Use oils or soaps to weaken and lubricate the adhesive. Lubricate extra-sticky bandages even more. Dissolve the adhesive with alcohol.

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You've probably had the misfortune of coming across someone's used bandage floating in the gutter of a public swimming pool, and therefore are aware that exposure to water weakens a bandage's adhesion to skin.  No, don't go to your public pool.  Soak in the bathtub for a bit, and then try removing the bandage.  A leisurely shower may work as well. You can also just apply a wet compress (such as a clean rag soaked in warm water) to the bandage and wait for it to soak through. People swear by different products -- olive oil, petroleum jelly, baby shampoo, or baby oil, to name a few -- but the process is similar regardless.  Try different variations and see what works best for you and your family.  Use a cotton ball, cotton swab, or just your finger to massage the product into the adhesive areas of the bandage.  Work it in and allow it to saturate those areas of the bandage. Peel a corner of the bandage up to see if the adhesion has been weakened.  If not, keep working in the oil or soap. If so, peel away the rest of the bandage in a quick motion.  Use your other hand to gently press the surrounding skin down, if necessary. One tip for kids is adding food coloring to baby oil so that you can “paint” the mixture onto the bandage with cotton swabs.  Make it a fun experience instead of a worrisome one. Instead of yanking off a stubbornly-stuck bandage quickly, weaken the adhesive as mentioned in the last step, peel up a corner, then apply moisturizing lotion to the contact point between skin and bandage as you continue to slowly pull it away. You can also use the lubricating technique with rubbing alcohol.  The adhesive should slowly but surely dissolve, and any adhesive remaining on the skin can be rubbed away with the saturated cotton ball / swab. There are also adhesive removal products marketed for bandage removal.  Check medical or surgical supply stores if not available at your drugstore.


Soak the beans in salted water. Rinse and drain the beans. Heat the olive oil. Sauté the onion until soft. Add the taco seasoning mix and garlic powder. Add the tomato paste, vegetable broth, beans, and remaining water. Boil the chili beans. Let simmer up to 2 hours. Serve.

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Dissolve the salt in 4 cups (1 L) of water. Add the dry beans to the salted water and let soak for a minimum of 8 hours.  Soaking the beans softens them and removes many of the gas-inducing compounds they contain. Sort through the beans to remove any broken or irregular beans, stones, and debris from the mix before soaking them. The beans can soak for a maximum of 24 hours. Drain the beans and transfer them to a colander. Rinse them under clean, running water, then let drain again. Discard the soaking liquid after you drain the beans. Heat the oil in a large skillet with deep sides over medium-high heat. Wait a minute or two for the oil to heat, but do not let it reach its smoking point. Add the chopped onion to the hot oil and cook, stirring continuously, until it begins to softened. The onion can turn clear or golden, but do not let it brown or burn. Sprinkle the seasonings over the onion and stir well to coat. Let cook for another 1 minute, stirring frequently to prevent burning. Add the tomato paste and stir to combine it with the seasoned onions before stirring in the vegetable broth. Add the remaining water and pre-soaked beans after that. If the mixture seems lumpy after you stir in the vegetable broth, whisk it to remove the lumps before adding the water and beans. Let the beans reach a steady boil at medium-high heat before reducing the heat to medium-low. Stir frequently to prevent burning. Cook the beans until they become tender.  This may take as little as 1 hour and 30 minutes. Leave the skillet uncovered as the beans simmer. Stir the beans occasionally as they cook. Remove the finished chili beans from the heat and serve warm. These beans can be used as a base for simple chili, or they could serve as a side dish for Mexican food, burgers, or hot dogs.


Soak the beans overnight. Give beans a quick boil before cooking. Cook your beans thoroughly. Skim off the foam if you prefer.

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Soaking the beans helps remove the harmful plant lectin, hemagglutinin. Cover them in clean water with an inch or two extra at the top. Place a lid over them. Leave them to soak overnight. Discard the water before cooking. After the beans have been soaking, it's a good idea to boil them to remove any remaining hemagglutinin. Bring the beans to a boil, and let them boil for 10 minutes before cooking as you normally would. The best way to avoid food poisoning from beans is to ensure they are cooked thoroughly. Each type of bean takes a different amount of time to cook, so read the back of the package, or find a chart on the web for the style of cooking you plan to use. You can choose to boil them, cook them in a pressure cooker, or use a slow-cooker. Beans should be soft and tender when they're done.  Several beans need only a relatively short cooking time: red lentils (cook 20-30 minutes, pressure cook 5-7 minutes), black (turtle) beans (boil for 45-60 minutes, pressure cook 15-20 minutes), fava or broad beans (cook for 45-60 minutes, don't pressure cook), and great northern (cook 45- 60 minutes, pressure cook 4-5 minutes). Some need a bit longer: chickpeas (cook 1.5 to 2.5 hours, pressure cook 15-20 minutes), kidney beans (cook 1 to 1.5 hours, pressure cook for 10 minutes), lima beans (cook 60-90 minutes, don't use pressure cooker), and pinto beans (cook 1.5 hours, pressure cook 10 minutes). Beans produce foam at the top of the pot when you boil them. This foam is harmless, however, and it will be reabsorbed by the broth. However, you can skim it off if you'd like.


Soak the beans. Drain the soaked beans. Move the beans to the pressure cooker. Cook the beans. Turn off the heat and allow pressure to reduce. Remove the lid. Use or store the beans.

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Pour the dry beans into a large bowl and pick through them to remove any shriveled or unappealing beans. Cover the beans with two to three inches (5 to 7 cm) of water and leave them on the counter to soak overnight.  Soaking the beans overnight (roughly 10 to 14 hours) reduces the cooking time required, helps them cook more evenly and makes them easier to digest by removing most of the sugar called oligosaccharide, which causes flatulence.   If you’re in a rush you can speed up the soaking time by covering the beans in water, heating them to a boil for two minutes, then turn off the heat and allow them to sit undisturbed for an hour.  Lentils, peas, and black-eyed peas do not need to be soaked before cooking. Pour the beans into a colander to remove the soaking water. Rinse them under cold running water. Add eight cups (1.9 L) of water for one pound (453.5 g) of beans. At this point you can add aromatics if you wish, such as half of an onion, garlic cloves, chopped carrots and/or bay leaves. Secure the cover to the pressure cooker according to the instruction manual and turn the stove top burner up to high. When the pressure cooker reaches high pressure, reduce the heat to medium and start the cooking time. Cook for the recommended time for the beans you are using. Allow the pot to cool down and reduce the pressure naturally. Follow the instruction manual to know when it is safe to remove the lid. Unlock and carefully remove the lid, tilting it away from you and allowing condensation to drip back into the pot. Use a slotted spoon to remove the aromatics. You can now add your cooked beans to any recipe. If you wish to store them, measure out 1 1/2 cups (354.8 ml) of beans into a two cup storage container and the cooking liquid to cover, allowing 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) of headspace. Seal and store in the refrigerator for one week or in the freezer for up to one year. Label the containers with the date and contents.


Soak the beans. Drain the water. Place the beans in a pressure cooker. Cook until tender. Serve.

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Place the adzuki beans in a medium to large saucepan or bowl and fill the container with enough water to cover the beans. Let the beans soak overnight at room temperature.  Strictly speaking, it is not essential to soak adzuki beans. You can cook them in a pressure cooker without pre-soaking them, but pre-soaking will reduce the cooking time and can also help strip away any water-soluble components responsible for digestive upset.  If you want the beans to keep their color, shape, and aroma, do not soak them before cooking them. Pour the beans and water through a colander to drain them. Rinse the beans under running water several times. Rinsing the beans after draining them will remove more of the water-soluble fibers still clinging to the outer skin of the beans. Transfer the drained beans to a pressure cooker and add 2 cups (500 ml) of cool water. Cover the pressure cooker and set it to cook on high pressure. If you soaked the beans, this should only take 5 to 9 minutes. If you did not soak the beans, this can take 15 to 20 minutes.  Drain any excess water when done by pouring the contents of the pressure cooker through a colander again. Note that there should not be much water left after the beans finish cooking, though. When ready, the beans should be tender enough to pierce with a fork. Serve the adzuki beans alone while still hot or add them to your favorite bean dish recipe.  If serving the beans warm, you can serve them with tortilla shells, cornbread, or rice. You can also add them to casseroles, bakes, chili, and stew. If you decide to let them cool, you can enjoy the beans mixed into a green mixed salad. If you have leftovers, you can store the cooked adzuki beans in an airtight container for five days in the refrigerator or six months in the freezer.


Soak the bitter melon in salted water for several minutes. Heat the oil in a pan. Saute the garlic and onion until the onion is soft. Mix in the ground beef and cook until it’s browned. Stir in the soy sauce, salt, and pepper. Drain the bitter melon. Add the bitter melon and cook for several more minutes. Transfer the mixture to a dish and serve with steamed rice.

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Place 2 medium pieces of bitter melon that’s been cleaned and sliced into a large bowl. Pour 2 to 3 cups (480 to 720 ml) of water over it to cover it, along with 1 teaspoon (6 g) of salt. Let the melon soak for about 5 to 10 minutes. Place a medium-size skillet on the stove over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of canola oil to the pan, and let it heat for 3 to 5 minutes. When the oil is warmed, add 2 cloves of minced garlic and 1 medium chopped onion to the skillet. Allow the mixture to cook until the onions become translucent and softened, which should take about 3 minutes. When you’ve finished sauteing the onion and garlic, add 1 pound (454 g)  of ground beef to the skillet. Allow the meat to cook until it’s browned and cooked through, which should take about 5 minutes. If you prefer, you can substitute pork belly for the ground beef. Once the ground beef is browned, add 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of soy sauce and some salt and pepper to taste to the skillet. Mix well to ensure that the ingredients are fully combined. Pour the water out of the bowl with the melon. Use paper towel or a clean kitchen towel to gently pat the melon dry. Mix the drained melon into the skillet. Saute the mixture for about 5 more minutes to soften the melon. When the melon is soft, pour the mixture into a serving bowl. Pair it with the rice and serve while it’s still warm.


Soak the casings for 10 minutes to 1 hour depending on the type. Slide a casing onto the horn and tie a knot at the loose end. Stuff the nduja into the casing Use a sterilized needle to prick the casings.

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If you're using synthetic casings, submerge them in cold water for 10 minutes before you begin filling them. If you're using salted natural casings, rinse and soak them in room temperature water for 15 minutes to 1 hour. For natural casings, you'll also need to blow air into the casings which will help when you slide them onto the horn. Once you've soaked the casings, remove them from the water and slide 1 onto the horn attached to your grinder. Use twine to tie a very tight knot 1 in (2.5 cm) from the loose end of the casing. . Use 1 hand to hold the casing and the other hand to feed the nduja through the grinder. Keep filling the casing so the nduja is evenly distributed and the casing moves away from the grinder. Tie off the other end of the casing and fill the remaining 3 casings. It's useful to have someone hold the casing as you add the nduja and move it through the grinder. Hold a needle over an open flame for a few seconds to sterilize it or use a sterilized sausage pricker. Poke tiny holes over the entire surface of each casing. Pricking the casings will release any trapped air and help the nduja dry out.


Soak the cracked wheat. Fry the cumin. Add the ginger, onion, and chili. Add the turmeric, tomatoes, and the remaining vegetables. Toast the wheat. Cook the dalia in the water. Let the pressure cooker rest.

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Measure the cracked wheat into a small bowl and cover it with water. Set the wheat aside to soak for about 30 minutes. After soaking, transfer the cracked wheat to a fine-mesh sieve and rinse it with fresh water. Set the wheat aside to continue draining. Soaking the wheat will help to soften it, and reduce the cooking time. Transfer the ghee to a pressure cooker and heat it over medium heat. When the ghee is liquid and hot, add the cumin seeds. Cook the cumin in the ghee for one to two minutes, until it’s fragrant and crackling.  Other aromatics you can toast with the cumin include chili powder, mustard, and curry leaves.  Ghee is clarified butter. You can use regular butter or your favorite cooking oil in place of the ghee. Continue cooking the mixture over medium heat until the onions are slightly soft and the ginger is fragrant. Stir regularly to prevent the ingredients from sticking to the bottom of the pan. For a less spicy dish, omit the chili, or replace it with a milder pepper. Add the turmeric and tomatoes first, and cook them together with the aromatics for a minute. Then add the carrot, potato, and peas and cook the dish for an additional minute. You can add any vegetables you like to this dish, including chopped cauliflower, peppers, beans, and broccoli. Add the drained cracked wheat to the pressure cooker. Stir constantly and sauté the wheat with the aromatics and vegetables for three to four minutes, until it’s warm and fragrant. Toasting the wheat will help to bring out more of its aroma, and infuse it with flavors from the other ingredients. Add the salt and water to the pressure cooker and stir the mixture. Secure the pressure cooker lid. Bring the pot to pressure over medium heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook the dalia until soft, about 12 minutes, or 7 to 9 whistles on the pressure cooker. If you don’t have a pressure cooker, you can use a regular saucepan and cook the dalia on the stove. Cook the dalia for about 25 minutes, covered, until the water is absorbed and the wheat is...


Soak the dirty hem in a bathtub. Clean the bodice. Clean the separate layers. Spot clean the outer layer. Try a stronger stain remover. Rinse your dress. Dry your gown. Hang your dress after it's dry.

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Keep the body of the dress out of the water while following this step. Make sure the bathtub is clean and use warm, sudsy water to soak your hem for a couple of hours.  Working your way around the dress, use a toothbrush and the liquid detergent to "massage" the hemline clean. Be careful not to scrub too vigorously on lace or trims, and clean the underside of the hem and dress lining, as well. Rinse the hem thoroughly when you are finished cleaning it. Turn the dress bodice inside out, and spray the lining of the bodice area (the part that fits on your upper body) with a dish soap and water solution. Use the toothbrush and the detergent to clean perspiration stains that may appear in the underarm area. If your dress has many layers of lining in the skirt, be sure to look over all of them and clean all the stains you find with a spot-cleaner. This is where inspecting every area of the dress comes in handy. Spray any stains on the outside of your dress with your spray solution using the toothbrush if necessary. Be very gentle and carefully blot the fabric. Be particularly careful of laces and trims. If soap and water do not remove the stains, mix up a solution of a stain remover, such as OxyClean®, and water. Place the stained area in the solution to soak until the stain disappears. Do not use chlorine bleach, such as Clorox, as it leaves a film that is very difficult to remove. When you are satisfied with the cleaning of your dress, fill the bathtub with warm water and place the whole dress carefully in the tub. Swish the dress around in the water as soaps from the cleaning process are rinsed out. Let the water drain and then fill the tub again and repeat the process. Follow this procedure several times until the water is very clear without any soap bubbles. It is critical to get all soap and cleaning solutions rinsed out of the dress to avoid potential damage from chemicals. The dress should be "line" dried, but not by hanging it on a hanger because the weight of the wet dress could damage it. Line dry it...


Soak the grates in a vinegar solution. Remove and rinse the grates. Scrub off any remaining gunk, if necessary. Rinse and dry the grates.

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Mix one cup (237 g) of vinegar and two cups (474 g) of baking soda. Pour the solution into a garbage bag or container large enough to fit the grates. Place the grates in the solution and allow them to soak overnight. Place a cover on the container. If you use a garbage bag, fasten it with a rubber band. Untie the rubber band or remove the cover from the container. Lift the grates out of the solution. Then, rinse them down with a garden hose. Most of the stuck-on food should fall off. Use a nylon brush for porcelain-coated grates. Move in gentle diagonal strokes. Cast iron or stainless steel grates can handle stainless steel bristles. Move in a gentle vertical direction. Hose the grates down one last time. Pat the surface dry with a microfiber towel. Then, replace the grill.


Soak the item in a lukewarm water solution. Check to see if the stain has been removed.

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Start by soaking the item in lukewarm water mixed with dishwashing detergent and vinegar. In a quart of water, add a tablespoon of water and a 1/2 teaspoon of dishwashing detergent. Mix together, and add the piece of clothing.  Let the clothing soak in the solution for about 15 minutes. Rinse the clothing out at the end. If the stain remains, repeat the steps again before you dry the fabric. Drying the fabric with the stain could set the stain permanently, so you want to make sure the stain is gone before you dry it. Once the stain is gone, dry the clothing normally.  One way to check the stain is to smell it. If it still smells like beer, wash it again. Also, look for discoloration. If the fabric is still discolored, you need to wash it again.


Soak the knot. Bite the knot. Walk around a bit.

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If you’re working on untying a tight knot in a rope, cord, or other fiber-based material, soaking it in water can help the process along.  Just fill your sink or a small pot with water and let the knot sit in it for 10 minutes or so.  After the time has elapsed, try to untie it.  If it remains tight, place it back in the water for another 10 minutes, then check again. For knots in a medium-gauge cord or rope, bite the knot between your teeth.  Work your jaw from side to side a bit.  The pressure from your clenched teeth should loosen the knot enough that you can untie it with ease.  You might even be able to feel it expanding between your teeth. If the tight knot you’re interested in untying is in your shoelaces, go for a walk or run.  The combination of forward motion and stomping on the ground will naturally loosen the shoelace knot over time.  The amount of time you will need to spend walking or running before your tight knot is loosened sufficiently varies depending on the severity of the knot.  Very tight knots will take longer to loosen than knots that are merely tight. Start by walking about for 10 minutes or so, then testing the knot in your shoelace.  If it is still tight, walk a bit more.


Soak the medical cannabis buds in the solvent. Stir the mixture. Strain the solvent-medical cannabis mixture into another container. Soak, mix, and strain the mixture a second time.

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Pour the medical marijuana buds into a medium sized glass or ceramic mixing bowl. Pour the high proof alcohol over the medical marijuana. Continue to pour the solvent until it rests 1 inch above the surface of the medical cannabis. Retrieve your wooden spoon. Mix and mash the solvent and medical cannabis together for 2 to 3 minutes. The constant stirring motion will aid the solvent in absorbing the THC from the medical marijuana. Retrieve your straining device and second container. Place your straining device within your second container. Carefully pour the mixture through the strainer and let the dark green liquid fill the container.  If you are use a bag or cloth, squeeze the contents of the cloth to get out all of the liquid. The liquid is a mixture of the alcohol and the extracted resin from the medical cannabis. The first wash will remove approximately 70% to 80% of the resin from the medical cannabis. This second wash will remove the rest of the THC.  Empty the contents of your strainer into the medium sized mixing bowl. Pour the solvent over the cannabis so that it is fully submerged. Use the wooden spoon to mix and mash the alcohol-medical cannabis mixture for 2 to 3 minutes. Place your strainer over the second container, which already contains the dark green liquid from the first wash. Slowly pour the contents of the mixing bowl in your strainer. Allow all of the dark green liquid to run into the container. It is not  necessary to do a third wash.


Soak the mug in bleach water. Use a magic eraser sponge. Use powdered cleaners. Use professional espresso machine cleaner.

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In a large bowl, pour in 1 gallon of warm water and 1 tablespoon bleach. Soak the mug for as long as it takes for the stains to disappear, anywhere between an hour to overnight.   Alternatively, you can use a scrubbing sponge to scrub the mug until clean. This is the strength of bleach water used to sanitize dishes. If your stains don't come out, you can increase the strength of the bleach water but be sure that you wash the mug off very, very well afterwords. To use, rub a slightly damp magic eraser on the dry cup. Use a circular motion and a moderate amount of pressure.  Rinse the mug thoroughly after cleaning. You do not want to ingest the magic eraser cleaner. Products such as Bon Ami and Barkeeper's Friend can be very effective for cleaning ceramic dish ware. These products are usually combined with a small amount of water and rubbed across the surface with a cloth or sponge.   Be careful with these products, however, as they can be too abrasive and cause scratches. To avoid this, test the product on the underside of the mug before using it on the the rest of the item. You can also use a high quality stain remover, such as Oxi-Clean. Add the cleaner to a mug of hot water and let it soak until the stains disappear. Once they are gone, rinse the mug thoroughly. This may be more of an investment than most people want to make but if you are really determined to get a white mug clean, buy commercial cleaner. The espresso machine cleaner is specially formulated to get at coffee stains in particular.   Like all commercial cleaners, it is important to wash this cleaner off completely before using your mug again.


Soak the nail in warm water. Use Epsom salt. Soak with hydrogen peroxide. Try tea tree oil.

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Soak your finger in warm water for about 15 to 20 minutes. Soaking helps relieve pain in the finger and helps with swelling. You can do this three or four times a day.  Dry the fingernail thoroughly after soaking it. You should keep your ingrown fingernail dry unless you are soaking it. After soaking your finger, you should then place any ointment or oil on the fingernail. You should also replace any cotton or bandages after soaking the finger. Another option to help an ingrown fingernail is to soak your hand in Epsom salt. Fill a bowl with warm water and add a couple of tablespoons of Epsom salt per quart of water. Let your hand soak for 15 to 20 minutes.  Epsom salts help relieve pain and inflammation.  If you want to apply a bandage to the ingrown fingernail, dry the finger completely after soaking. Then apply a bandage. Hydrogen peroxide is used to prevent infection. You can soak your ingrown fingernail in a solution of warm water and hydrogen peroxide. Add half a cup of peroxide to the warm water.  You can soak your finger for 15 to 20 minutes. You may also place the peroxide onto a cotton ball or piece of gauze and apply it directly the the ingrown fingernail. Tea tree oil has antifungal and antibacterial properties, which can help with an ingrown fingernail. When  you soak your nail, add two or three drops of tea tree oil to the warm water. Mix a drop or two of tea tree oil with a tablespoon of olive oil and rub it on the nail to prevent infection.  The tea tree oil can also help keep the nail a bit softer. You can put a drop of tea tree oil diluted in a tablespoon of olive oil on the nail daily. You can use tea tree oil as an alternative to antibiotic ointment since you probably won’t need both.  After the tea tree oil soaks in, put a dab of Vicks VapoRub or Mentholatum on the sore area. The menthol and camphor will work to reduce the pain and help soften the nail. Keep the menthol or camphor on for 12 to 24 hours using a bandage or a small piece of gauze. If you are using cotton to lift your nail,...


Soak the nozzle overnight in paint thinner. Remove the softened paint. Apply an aerosol lubricant to the clogged nozzle.

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Remove the clogged nozzle from the spray paint can. Place the nozzle in a small dish of paint thinner. Allow it to soak over night.  The paint thinner should remove or loosen the clog. When you handle paint thinner, wear protective gloves. Put on a pair of protective gloves and remove the nozzle from the paint thinner. Rinse the nozzle under water to clear out the softened paint. After rinsing the nozzle, you may carefully insert a needle into the nozzle to remove the paint. Please note, using a needle may distort or widen the nozzle’s tube. Remove the nozzle from the can of aerosol lubricant and replace it with the clogged spray paint nozzle. Press down on the nozzle to force the aerosol lubricant through it. Repeat until the clog is cleared. If the nozzle is still clogged, remove it from the aerosol lubricant. Apply the lubricant directly to the nozzle’s interior and exterior opening. Return the nozzle to the can and try to force the lubricant through it. Repeat as needed.


Soak the plants. Untangle the roots. Dig holes and plant the hostas.

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Sometimes hostas come from nurseries in bags with bare roots. It’s especially important to soak the roots if that’s the case with your hostas, because it will help prepare the plants for transplanting.   Choose a bucket or bowl that’s slightly smaller than the crown of the hosta. Fill the bucket with cold water. Rest one hosta crown on the rim of the bucket so the roots are soaking in the water below. Repeat for each hosta. Soak the plants for at least an hour before transplanting. If you're not transplanting the hostas immediately, leave them soaking to keep the roots moist. Right before planting, remove the hostas from the buckets and use your hands to gently untangle the roots. Use your fingers to carefully comb the roots so there aren't any tangles, and ensure all the roots are facing the direction they're growing in.  Hostas, especially potted ones, are susceptible to tangled roots. The plants can strangle themselves if you try to plant them in the ground with their roots tangled. For each hosta, dig a hole in your prepared garden bed that’s about 2.5 feet (76 cm) wide and 1 foot (30 cm) deep. Place one hosta in each hole, making sure the roots don’t become bent or tangled. Fill the hole loosely with soil, but do not pack the soil around the roots. Make sure only the roots of the plant are buried, and that the entire crown is above the ground.  Water each plant thoroughly immediately after planting. Leave enough space between the hostas to accommodate for their mature width. This will depend on the variety of hosta you have. If you're not sure, leave about 3 feet (76 cm) of space between the hostas.


Soak the pot overnight. Use masonry drill bits. Place a piece of tape over the surface. Start small. Drill slowly. Increase the size gradually. Clean up.

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Place the clay pot in a large bucket and cover it with water. Allow the unglazed clay to soak in the water for at least one hour, leaving it there overnight for best results.  Thoroughly saturated terra cotta clay is easier to drill through. Water acts as both a lubricant and a cooling agent, which makes it easier for the drill bit to work its way through without causing damage to the clay or overheating. When you are ready to drill through the clay pot, remove it from the water and allow any excess puddles of water to drip off the surface you'll be drilling through. Carbide masonry drill bits should drill through unglazed, natural clay pots without much difficulty or damage.  The drill bit size and number of drill bits you'll need will vary based on the size of the hole you want to create. If you want to create a simple drainage hole, you'll probably want at least one 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) masonry drill bit. To minimize the risk of cracking the pot, it's best if you use multiple drill bits when creating holes larger than 1/4 inch (6.35 mm). Start with a 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) drill bit and gradually work your way up in size until you reach the final desired hole diameter. Place at least one strip of painter's tape or masking tape directly over the spot you plan to drill through.  The tape can help prevent the drill bit from slipping as you work through the surface of the pot. It is not always necessary with soft, unglazed clay, but it can still help. Multiple layers of tape will work even better than a single layer. This provides even greater traction and may help ensure that the tape will stick on the pot, even in spite of the moisture. If you're working with multiple drill bit sizes, start with the 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) bit.  If you only plan to use a single size, attach that drill bit to the drill now.  Use a cordless drill with variable speed for the greatest amount of control. Bring the drill bit to the center of the spot you wish to drill through and turn on the drill. Work the drill through that spot at a...


Soak the rice for 20-30 minutes in warm water. . Add a large pinch of salt. Add a tablespoon of vegetable oil. Add the washed rice and let it simmer for 10-15 minutes. Once cooked, let the rice sit for 5 or so minutes. Finished!

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You will find that starch comes out of the rice and turns the water milky. This means the rice is opening up and separating, which will give your rice a fuller texture. If you'd like, rinse the rice with cold running water prior to soaking to make sure the grains aren't clumping together. oil 1 3/4 cup of water. The amount of water should be double the amount of rice if the rice is not soaked. If the rice is soaked (which is best), you can leave off a couple of tablespoons. That's why this recipe is 1 3/4 cup of water and not 2! Once it comes to a boil, it's time for the rice – you don't want all the water to disappear! Do the next couple of steps as the water is coming to a boil, not while it's fully boiling. This is optional, but most people believe that even just a dash of salt can greatly change the taste of the rice, and for the better. However, if you're watching your salt intake, feel free to skip this step. Add any other seasonings if you'd like, too! Maybe some cumin, cardamom, garlic, chile, or turmeric? Experimenting with seasonings means each time you make rice, you'll be experiencing a completely different dish. A splash of oil will give your basmati rice that sheen you see in restaurants. It won't change the flavor too much, unless you use a flavored oil. Vegetable oil is the most common, but you can use whatever type you like. Olive oil is a common substitute if vegetable oil isn't in your cupboard. Once the rice is in, reduce the heat to low. Stir only once, maybe twice while cooking. Opening up the pot may result in the rice hardening and losing its flavor. A large part of making rice is trusting it'll all work out. Make sure the heat is on low, not medium-low. If the stove is on any higher than that, you risk the rice burning. Turning it on higher will not reduce the amount of time needed; it will just fry your rice and boil out the flavor. Take the rice off the heat and let it sit, covered. This allows the grains to soften and steam. Any additional liquid will be soaked up, too. After this...


Soak the rice. Bring 8 cups of water to a boil. Add the rice. Stir the added ingredients. Check the consistency of the rice. Turn off the heat. Prepare the saffron milk. Prepare the sealing dough.

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Rinse the rice with cool water to remove some of the outermost starch, and then allow it to continue soaking in the water. Let the rice soak between 30 minutes to 1 hour. For biryani, you want to use basmati rice to give the fullest flavor to the dish. This is the water you are going to cook the rice in. The water must be boiling before you add the rice. Along with the rice, add some other ingredients to give the rice a full flavor, and prevent the rice from sticking:  5 green cardamoms 2 black cardamoms 3 cloves 2 pieces of cinnamon 1 bay leaf 1 piece of mace 1 tsp of ghee 1/2 tsp of salt Stir the ingredients to make sure they are all mixed in, and then cover the rice boil it for 8-10 minutes or until the rice is cooked half to three quarters of the way. Once the rice is cooked half to three quarters, you can take out the whole ingredients you added earlier (cloves, cardamoms, etc.) Since the rice should only be cooked half to a quarter of the way when you take it off the stove, the grains should be soft on the outside but still hard in the middle.  This is because the rest of the rice gets cooked on dum (when you layer the chicken and rice, seal it with dough around the edges to lock in the steam, and put it on a very low flame). You can tell how cooked the rice is by taking a grain and pressing it with your fingers. The rice should break apart into pieces, but still have a hard texture to it. If it is soft and mushes in your fingers, you have cooked it too much. Turn off the heat once you rice is cooked half to three quarters of the way, and let it sit. The hot water will cook the rice a little bit more, without cooking it too much. Add 1/4 tsp saffron to 2 tbsp of warm milk and let it soak for approximately 15 minutes. This saffron mixture will go on top of the rice when you are preparing to cook the final part of the biryani and it will give a nice flavoring. Place 2 cups of chapati flour in a bowl and add approximately 3/4 cup of lukewarm water. Stir until the mixture forms a soft dough.  If the dough...


Soak the seeds in 1 cup (240 ml) of warm water overnight. Wrap the seeds in a damp cloth. Wait 3 to 4 days for the seeds to sprout. Add the sprouts to salad or eat them alone.

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Then, drain the excess water out of the bowl in the morning. You can use a strainer to remove the excess water. You can use any type of cloth, but a muslin cloth is ideal to use. Use warm water to dampen the cloth before folding the cloth around the seeds. Place the cloth in a location where it won’t be bothered. Check on the seeds the day after you wrap them in the cloth. Typically, it will take a few days for the seeds to sprout. After 3 days, you can remove the seeds if you see that they’ve sprouted. You can rinse the seeds under water, but otherwise, they are ready to eat. Store the sprouts in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. If you’re eating the sprouts to aid weight loss, it’s best to eat them first thing into the morning on an empty stomach. It’s also an option to add them to a salad if you don’t want to eat them alone. Simply toss the sprouted seeds into a salad and thoroughly mix them in with the other ingredients.


Soak the seeds in soapy water. Rinse and move the seeds to another bowl of water. Dry the seeds. Start your seeds indoors.

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Fill a large cup or bowl with warm (not hot) water. Add a splash of dish soap, and stir the mixture to help it to dissolve. Place all of your parsley seeds into the mixture and allow them to soak for one hour. The heat of the water and the dish soap will help to break down the notoriously tough outer casing of the parsley seeds, helping them to grow faster than they would without soaking. Using a small strainer, pour the soapy water out and run the seeds under lukewarm water. This should remove any traces of the soap, and prepare them for the next step. Fill a bowl with very warm water (near 105 degrees Fahrenheit) and place the seeds in the water. Leave these to soak overnight to continue the germination process. After 24 hours soaking in the water, remove the seeds with a strainer and lay them out on a piece of wax paper to dry. When they have been fully dried, they are ready to be planted. If you want to speed up your planting time even further, you can plant your parsley ahead of time in small containers and move them to their final destination after sprouting. 6-12 weeks prior to the last frost before Spring, plant your parsley seeds into small containers and water them daily. This should give them enough time to begin sprouting, increasing their time to full bloom when planted outdoors or in a larger pot.


Soak the seeds. Wet one paper towel and put it on a plate. Put the seeds 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) apart on the towel. Wet other paper towel and place it over the seeds. Store the seeds at 70 to 85 °F (21 to 29 °C). Keep the paper towels moist. Wait for the seeds to germinate.

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To make germination easier, consider soaking the seeds in tap water for 12 hours in a bowl. Viable seeds will sink to the bottom of the bowl and non-viable seeds will float. After 12 hours, place the viable seeds on a towel. Paper towels are thick enough to retain the moisture needed to help the seeds germinate. Place one paper towel under running water until it is wet to the touch, but not dripping wet. Use a ceramic dish or plate, as it will be strong enough to hold the towels and the seeds. The paper towel should cover the dish or plate. Place the blunt end of the seeds, the end that does not have a point, on the towel, spacing them apart so their roots do not get tangled. If you do not have enough space on one plate for all your seeds, soak two more paper towels and put the remainder on a new plate covered in a wet paper towel. Make sure the wet towel makes contact with the seeds. The cannabis seeds need to sit at a warm, consistent temperature to germinate. Store the seeds out of direct sunlight in a warm area, such as the top of your refrigerator. You can try using a heat lamp near the seeds to keep them warm. Do not warm the seeds up too much, as you do not want your heat source to dry out the paper towels. Spray the top towel with a spray bottle of water to keep them moist. Check the paper towels several times a day to ensure they do not dry out. If the seeds become too dry, they could die and never germinate. Viable cannabis seeds will usually open with 48 hours. You should see the roots start to appear within a few days, depending on the seed type. Once the tap roots are 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 inch (0.64 to 1.27 cm) long, the seeds are ready to be planted.  Be very careful with the seeds as they open. Avoid prodding, pulling, or touching the seeds, as you do not want to damage the roots. Any seeds that have not opened and grown roots within a few days should be discarded, as they are not viable.


Soak the sponge with water and put it in a microwave-safe bowl. Let the sponge cool in the microwave for 10-15 minutes.

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Run the sponge under tap water for 30 seconds, letting it become completely saturated. Don’t squeeze or wring the sponge, since you want to keep as much water in it as possible. Place the wet sponge in a glass, plastic, or ceramic bowl that's safe to go in the microwave. If you don't have a microwave-safe bowl, you can place the sponge on a paper towel to catch any water that comes out of the sponge in the microwave. Open the microwave door and let the sponge sit for at least 10 minutes before you try to pick it up or remove it from the bowl. Then, squeeze out any excess water from the sponge. Remember, the sponge will be extremely hot once you remove it from the microwave. Don’t try to pick it up or remove it from the bowl until it has cooled down.


Soak the towels in the machine. Add vinegar and detergent. Put the towels into the dryer immediately.

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Stop the machine after everything is well mixed. Then, allow the towels to soak in the vinegar solution for about one hour. After the hour is up, turn the machine back on and allow the cycle to complete. Next, you will need to run the wash cycle again, but this time add another cup of vinegar and your usual laundry detergent. Use the same amount that you would usually use for a load and allow the cycle to run through as usual, except with an extra spin cycle. You can either select “extra spin cycle” if your machine has this feature or restart the spin cycle after the first one finishes. As soon as the second spin cycle finishes, put the towels into the dryer. Turn your dryer on the highest setting and run it until the towels are completely dry. Then, run the towels through the dryer for a second time.


Soak the utazi leaves for 10 minutes. Rinse and cut the habanero pepper. Pound or grind the utazi leaves, pepper, and ground crayfish. Stir the utazi paste into the soup pot with the fish. Add the yam paste, stock cube, and ogiri.

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If you'd like to include them, place 2 tablespoons (29.6 ml) (3.5 g) of utazi leaves into a bowl with enough water to cover them. Soak the leaves for 10 minutes so they soften a little. If you have trouble finding utazi leaves or don't like their slightly bitter taste, you can leave them out. Trim off the stem from 1 habanero pepper and slice it in half. Rinse away the seeds and finely chop the pepper. You can leave out the habanero pepper or substitute a jalapeno pepper if you don't want the soup to be very spicy. Drain the utazi leaves through a fine mesh strainer and transfer the leaves to a mortar or food processor. Add the finely chopped habanero pepper and 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) (8 g) of ground crayfish. Use the pestle to pound the mixture until it's a thick paste or use the food processor to blend it. Set the mixture aside. If you're using the food processor, add a few tablespoons of water to keep the mixture from sticking. Remove the lid from the soup pot and add the utazi paste to the liquid in the pot. Stir gently so the paste dissolves but doesn't break up the fish. Stir the yam paste into the pot 1 spoonful at a time. Add 1 stock cube and 1 teaspoon (9.5 g) ogiri or fermented locust bean seasoning (iru). Stir the seasonings into the soup so they dissolve.


Soak the wood chips. Preheat the smoker between 225 and 250 degrees Fahrenheit (105 and 120 degrees Celsius). Smoke the pork for 2 hours. Baste and continue cooking. Baste hourly. Wrap the pork in foil. Smoke the pork butt until it cooks through. Let it stand. Serve the pork.

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Place several handfuls of apple and hickory wood chips in a dish and cover them with water. Allow the chips to soak for at least 30 minutes.  Damp wood chips produce more smoke and less fire. Using wood chips also gives the smoke more flavor, and the type of wood chip used will alter that flavor further. After the wood chips have finished soaking, remove them from water but do not attempt to wring out any of the excess moisture. Spread the drenched and drained wood chips over the lit charcoal.  The exact procedure you'll need to follow when setting up the smoker will vary on the exact model, so check the instruction manual to determine the proper steps. While you're waiting for the smoker to heat up, insert a meat thermometer into the pork. While standard meat thermometers will work, the easiest to use will be a digital thermometer with an internal probe and remote display. Place the pork on the smoker and close the lid. Allow it to smoke, undisturbed, for approximately 2 hours.  Place the pork butt on the pit with the bone-side facing down. The upper layer of fat should eventually render and drip downward, keeping the meat moist as it does. Until you start basting the meat, you should avoid opening the smoker. Opening the door will case the temperature inside the smoker to drop, which can dramatically increase the overall cooking time. After the first 2 hours, baste the pork with some of the reserved marinade. Return it to the smoker and continue cooking it for another hour.  Regular basting is important. Without it, the outside of the pork butt may dry out before the inside finishes cooking. Basting also makes the meat more tender and flavorful. To avoid contaminating the mixture with bacteria from undercooked pork, transfer it to a sterile spray bottle and spray it over the surface of the pork rather than brushing it on.  If you forgot to set aside some of the marinade for basting or if you run out of it during the smoking process, quickly whisk together a new half batch using 1 cup (250 ml) apple cider...


Soak the wood chips. Separate the coals. Light a fire. Prick each potato with a fork. Season with butter, salt, and pepper. Add wood chips to the coals. Place the potatoes on the grill grate. Smoke the potatoes until soft. Serve warm.

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Cover 2 cups (500 ml) of untreated wood chips with water. Keep the chips submerged for 30 minutes.  Mesquite chips work well with potatoes, but alder wood chips are another good choice. This step is only necessary if you are using dry wood chips. Pre-soaked chips do not need to be soaked a second time. Create two even piles of charcoal on either side of the grill. Separate the two piles by placing a foil drip pan in the center of the grill. You will likely need to remove the grill grate while filling the grill with coal. After putting everything in place, return the grate to its proper position. Use a lighter to start both piles of charcoal on fire. Allow the charcoal to burn down until it is covered by white ash.  You may need to sprinkle the coals with lighter fluid before setting them on fire. It can take 10 to 20 minutes for the coals to burn down significantly enough. Prepare the potatoes as you wait. Use a metal fork to pierce the skin of each potato 8 to 12 times. Space the piercings evenly around the entire potato.  You should do this step while the fire is burning down. Piercing the skin of each potato allows steam to escape from inside the potatoes during the cooking process. Brush the skin of each potato with enough melted butter to completely coat the surface. Generously season with salt and pepper, if desired. The salt and pepper amounts can be altered to suit your own tastes. Once the potatoes are ready and the coals have burned enough for ash to form, evenly spread your soaked wood chips over the surface of your charcoal piles.  You'll need to spread about 1 cup (250 ml) of wood chips over each separate pile. You do not need to spread any wood chips over the drip tray. Position the potatoes over the center of the grill grate. Keep each potato over the drip tray and not over either pile of coals. The potatoes must also be arranged in a single layer with at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of space separating them. Both precautions will allow for more even cooking. Cover the grill and smoke the potatoes...


Soak the wood handle in boiling water. Prepare to attach your ax-head and handle. Test your fit. Apply your epoxy. Affix your ax-head to your handle. Wrap your sinew around the head of your tomahawk. Tie off your sinew. Wait for your epoxy to dry. Add finishing touches.

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Take the slotted end of your handle and put it in boiling water to soften the wood. This will make it easier to attach the head of your tomahawk. Test the softness of your wooden handle with your pliers. If the wood bends with relative ease, you should be able to mold it around your ax-head. Take your length of sinew and cut a length about 10" to 12" using your scissors. Using your pliers, carefully bend the slotted end of your handle outward to make room for your ax-head. Be sure your wood does not crack when doing this. You should keep boiling water at the ready. Heat will go out of your wooden handle at a fairly quick rate. To maintain the flexibility of your wood, you will need to keep it hot. If the notch in your stone isn't deep enough or the slot in your handle is insufficient, you simply won't be able to fit your stone on your handle. Once the wood is soft, check to see if the head fits and make adjustments if you find it necessary. Your stone ax-head should fit firmly into its slot and should require some amount of pressure before it pushes into place. This will help to hold your ax-head in place and make your tomahawk sturdier. Place some epoxy in the slot of your handle. You'll want to keep a rag close by soaked in a solvent, like alcohol, so that any excess or errant epoxy can be cleaned before it discolors your tomahawk. Now you should be able to slide the notch of your stone into the slot of your handle. This might take some effort on your part.  Be firm, but don't exert so much pressure that you crack the handle.  Once the stone is in place, bend the ends of your slotted wood back inward to snugly hold your stone ax-head in place. Wipe any epoxy on the visible parts of your stone or handle with your solvent soaked rag. In a figure-eight pattern, wind your sinew very firmly around either side of your tomahawk handle and the top and bottom of your ax-head. Your sinew should cross in an X shape on the flat sides of your stone. You may also want to apply a little bit of epoxy to your sinew to...


Soak up a urine puddle with a thick wad of dry paper towels. Scoop up fecal matter with paper towels or cardboard. Wipe down the area with an enzymatic cleaner labelled for pet messes. Use a vinegar solution if you don’t have an enzymatic cleaner. Remove lingering odors with baking soda.

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Do your best to wipe up an accident as soon as you spot it. If you can get to a puddle while it’s still wet, absorb as much liquid as possible with paper towels. When your first wad of paper towels gets saturated, swap it out with fresh ones. If a puddle on a bare floor has already dried, skip ahead and wipe down the area with a cleaner. If you’re dealing with feces, scoop it up carefully to avoid spreading it, especially if it’s on the mushy side. Remove solid pieces with paper towels, 2 pieces of cardboard, or a sturdy plastic bag. If there’s any wet residue left behind, wipe it up with paper towels. It’s a good idea to wear a pair of disposable gloves when you’re cleaning up your pup’s accidents, especially if you’re picking up fecal matter. Once you’ve absorbed a urine puddle or removed feces, spray the soiled area with the cleaner. Let it sit for 2 or 3 minutes if the mess was fresh, or for about 10 minutes if some time passed before you could attack it. Then wipe the area thoroughly with paper towels until it’s dry.  An enzymatic cleaner breaks down the substances in pet messes that cause odors and stains. Since dogs like to go in the same spot repeatedly, eliminating all traces of the mess will help lower the chances of future accidents in the same area. Find an enzymatic cleaner anywhere household cleaning products are sold. Read your product’s instructions, and use it as directed. If you have hardwood floors, go with a product that’s labeled safe for wood. If you don’t have a product labeled for pet messes handy, several household products make good substitutes. Mix 1 part white vinegar with 1 part water, and add a heavy splash of lemon juice to cut the vinegar smell. Transfer the vinegar solution to a clean spray bottle, or apply it using a sponge or paper towels.  Let the vinegar solution sit, then wipe it up with a dry cloth or paper towels. Diluted vinegar should be safe for most floors. If you’re concerned, double the solution’s water content and test it on an inconspicuous area, such as under a...


Soak up any excess oil with a paper towel. Fold a paper towel so that it is at least two sheets thick and wider than the stain. Place the paper on top of the paper towel. Fold a second paper towel and place it over the stain. Put a heavy book on top of the second paper towel. Remove the book after a few days. Place enough baking soda onto the paper so that it completely covers the stain and leave overnight. Remove the baking soda and check the stain.

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As with water-based stains, do this as quickly as possible. Oil stains generally don't set in the same way that water-based stains do, but they can still spread quickly. Wash your hands before moving to the next step to make sure they are free of oil. Place the towel on a clean, hard surface. Make sure to pick a surface that won't be damaged by the oil just in case it soaks through the paper. The best places for this are the kitchen counter, a glass table, or a metal workbench. Avoid wood furniture. Make sure that the stain is over the paper towel. It is best to center the stain so that there is roughly an inch of paper towel also covering the clean part of the page on all sides. The extra space is there in case the stain spreads a little over time. As with the first paper towel, make sure it is at least two sheets thick. Again, make sure the paper towel is around one inch wider than the stain on all sides. This is especially important to avoid getting oil on the object in the next step. The best books to use are hardcover textbooks and dictionaries. Any flat, heavy object may be used instead of a book. If the stain was inside of a book, close the book with the paper towels inside and place a second book on top. The stain may be completely removed at this point. If the stain is still visible, try replacing the paper towels and put the book back on the paper for another night. If any oil still remains, proceed to the next step. The baking soda should be in a relatively tall pile. If you can still see the paper through the baking soda, add more! Other non-staining absorbent powders will also work for this step. Repeat Steps 7-8 with fresh baking soda until the stain is completely gone. If after a few tries the stain is still visible, you may need to take your paper to a professional restorer. However, keep in mind their services will most likely be expensive.


Soak up any spilled liquid. Wipe down the surface. Use a jelly compound.

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If you have an accident and spill something on your mechanical keyboard, the first step is to do damage control and clean up the mess. Soak up any of the excess material with paper towels or a regular bath towel. Then let your keyboard air dry completely before trying anything else. This usually takes about 2-3 days. Use a damp paper towel to wipe down the surface of the mechanical keyboard. You should be able to scrub off any sticky residue or grime that is stuck on the surface. This will help minimize the amount of dirt that gets down into the keys that could potentially cause a problem later. You can also use a disposable cleaning wipe to get this job done. A jelly compound is a material that is often used for cleaning keyboards because it conforms to the small spaces and attracts dirt and debris stuck down in your keyboard. Take off all the keycaps and then dab the sticky compound on your mechanical keyboard.  You can also try using the jelly material with the keys still on. But you’ll get a more efficient clean if you remove the keycaps. Be careful not to use a compound that is too sticky, as this could result in residue being transferred to your keyboard that negates the whole point of cleaning it in the first place. You should be able to purchase sticky compound at any office supply store.


Soak up any wet ink as soon as you can with dry paper towels. Spot-test the cleaning solution on an inconspicuous part of the fabric. Wet a cotton ball or clean cloth with your chosen cleaning solution. Blot the stain with the solution until it's gone. Wash away the cleaning solution with soap and water. Dry the area by dabbing it with a clean towel or let it air dry.

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If you get to the stain immediately after it happens, the first thing to do is quickly soap up as much ink as you can. Use dry paper towels or clean white rags and blot the spill until the stain no longer looks wet.  If you are able to turn the fabric over, blot up excess ink that leaked through the reverse side as well. Keep blotting up the ink until no more comes off on the towel when you gently press on the stain. Choose an inside hem on an item of clothing or a hidden corner of carpet or upholstery and apply a little of the cleaning solution. Let it sit for a few minutes and make sure it doesn't fade the color or cause pigments in the fabric to bleed. If it does bleed or fade, choose a different cleaning solution and repeat the spot test. Don't apply the cleaning solution directly to the fabric, as that may cause it to spread and make the problem worse. Instead, apply the solution to the cotton ball or cloth first. You want it to be wet enough that the cleaning solution is soaked in, but not dripping wet. Apply repeated gentle pressure on the stain, moving from the outside of the stain to the inside. Rotate the cloth or cotton ball as you dab to ensure you are using a clean part of it. Replace the cotton balls or cloth with new ones when they become saturated with ink to avoid spreading the stain farther. Repeat the process until no more ink comes out of the fabric and the stain disappears.  If you are cleaning clothing or linens that you can easily move around, place a clean towel or paper bag underneath the fabric as you blot the ink so it can help to soak up any pigment that is soaking through the fabric.  Never rub an ink stain—always blot—otherwise you will spread the stain around and make it worse. If your fabric is clothing or linens and can be washed in the washing machine, launder as you normally would. If you are cleaning a carpet or upholstery, dab away the cleaning solution with a damp, slightly soapy cloth. Only use one or two drops of soap on the cloth so that you don't leave behind a soapy...


Soak up excess liquid. Cover the stain with talcum powder. Brush the powder away. Repeat as necessary.

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If you spill any oil on your nylon bag – including salad dressing or car oil – you'll want to remove as much of it as possible immediately. Using a towel or napkin, dab at the oil to remove as much as you can. The more oil that is allowed to sit on the fabric of your bag, the harder the stain will be to remove. Cover the area with talcum powder after you've removed the excess liquid. Let the powder sit on the stain for a minute or two. Once you've let the powder sit, gently brush it away with a toothbrush. The talcum powder should absorb the oil, leaving the nylon of your bag stain-free. Depending on how much oil soaked into your bag, you might have to repeat these steps. Keep in mind that you might not be able to remove all of the oil from your nylon.


Soak up the excess liquid. Stuff your jeans with absorbent material. Pour salt over the stain.

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In the moments after a spill, grab a sponge, paper towels, or a cloth towel that you don’t mind staining. Use this to blot the affected area, working from the outside in. Be careful just to blot the wine, though, since rubbing it can spread the wine over a wider area, as well as deeper into your jeans’ denim. If you’re able to take your jeans off, do so. Grab some fresh towels or something similar. Stuff them into your jeans’ legs and/or waist, underneath the stain. Create a barrier that will stop the wine from seeping through the front of your jeans to its back, or vice versa. Blotting the wine with towels will get rid of excess liquid, but expect some of the wine to have already penetrated the fabric. To deal with that, cover the stain with salt. Use that to draw as much moisture back out of the denim before it has a chance to dry.


Soak wood chips in water for 30 minutes. Heat your smoker to 200 °F (93 °C). Transfer the wood chips to the chip tray. Place your sausages inside your smoker. Leave the damper vent open one-quarter of the way. Let the sausages cook in the smoker for 2 hours.

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Purchase whatever kind of wood chips you want to use for smoking your meat. Fill the chip tray in your smoker so it’s even with the top before pouring the wood chips into a container with water. Let the water absorb into the chips so they don’t burn as quickly in your smoker.  Wood chips for smoking can be purchased at any store that sells barbecuing equipment. Experiment with different types of wood to try new smoked flavors on your sausage. If you have an electric smoker, set the temperature using the controls on the machine. For a charcoal smoker, start your coals in a chimney and let them heat for 15 minutes before you pour the charcoal into the bottom of your smoker. Use the built-in thermometer or a laser thermometer to check the temperature. Keep your smoker closed while it’s warming up so the heat doesn’t escape. Drain the excess water from the wood chips and pour the chips back into the chip tray. Slide the chip tray into the slot at the bottom of your smoker. If your smoker doesn’t have a chip tray, place the wood chips directly onto the hot charcoals to produce smoke. Since the wood chips are waterlogged, they won’t catch fire. Instead, they’ll char and produce more smoke as they heat up. Set the sausages on a rack 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart from one another so the smoky flavor distributes evenly. Slide the rack into the smoker and quickly close the door. Don’t open the door again until the sausages are finished or else heat will escape your smoker and prolong your cook time.  You can smoke store-bought or homemade sausages. Try smoking precooked sausages to add even more of a smoky flavor. Locate the small metal dial near the top of your smoker. Turn the dial to open the damper so some of the smoke and heat can escape. Don’t open it more than 25% or else you’ll lose most of your smoke. Opening the damper vents also provides fresh air to the flames inside of a charcoal smoker so they stay lit. After about 2 hours, check your sausages to see if they’ve changed in color. Use a meat thermometer to make...


Soak your clothes in a diluted peroxide solution. Wash your clothes in the washing machine. Hang the clothes to dry outside on a line.

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Fill a large bucket with one part hydrogen peroxide and six parts water. Remove your clothes, being careful not to spread the oil onto your skin or eyes. Place the clothes in the peroxide solution and let them soak for at least an hour. For delicate clothes, soak them in a mixture of one part vinegar and four parts water. After soaking for an hour, remove your clothes from the peroxide solution and wring them out in the sink. Transfer the clothes to the washing machine. Fill the detergent compartment as usual with your favorite detergent, and add ½ cup (110 g) of baking soda to the drum with the clothes. Wash the clothes on your regular cycle. When the cycle has finished and your clothes are clean, remove them from the washing machine. Take the clothes outside and hang them to dry in the sun. The sun’s rays will not only dry the clothes, but will also help to eliminate any leftover skunk odors. In winter or when it’s not possible to dry your clothes outside, dry the clothes in a dryer. Don’t put the clothes in the dryer until you're sure the smell is gone, otherwise you may set the smell and make it even harder to remove.


Soak your clothing in vinegar. Wash your clothing with vinegar. Rinse out the vinegar.

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There are many different types of vinegars. To remove the smell of sulfur, you're going to want plain white vinegar. White vinegar is a commonly used home remedy for cleaning and getting rid of strong odors. It is generally inexpensive and available at any grocery or convenience store. Add 1-2 cups of vinegar to plain water in a bucket or tub. Add your sulfur smelling clothing to the vinegar mixture and soak your clothes for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Never let your clothing soak in vinegar for more than a few hours. Adding a 1/2 cup of white vinegar to your detergent when you wash your clothes will help get rid of any odors that tend to stick to the clothes. This includes the strong smell of sulfur.  Wash your clothing in the water temperature indicated on the tag. This will stop your clothes from fading or shrinking. If your tag indicates that the clothing is dry-clean only, take it to a cleaner instead of washing it yourself. Vinegar also works well as a fabric softener. To remove the vinegar smell completely, wash your clothing again using regular detergent. Vinegar has a strong smell of its own, especially if you've soaked your clothing in it. It might be necessary to wash the clothing again to get the vinegar smell out.  Hang your clothing indoors or outdoors to dry. Repeat the process if it still smells of sulfur when it's dry. Do not dry your clothing in the dryer until you're sure the sulfur smell is gone.


Soak your feet in lemon juice. Make your own cracked-heel cream. Oil your feet before bed. Create your own overnight foot mask. Try paraffin wax to moisturize your feet.

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The acid in lemon juice can be very helpful with softening and removing calluses.  Soak your feet in lemon juice for about 10 minutes before scrubbing your feet with a pumice stone or foot file. While foot razors or shavers can be purchased at drug stores and pharmacies, they are not a good idea to use.  They can easily cut your feet, and these cuts can easily become infected. Your heels tend to be one of the places that build up a lot of calluses.  You can help keep your heels, and the rest of your feet, soft and moisturized by making your own cracked-heel cream at home.  All you need to do is put a spoonful of olive oil in a small bottle and add a few drops of lemon or lavender essential oil.  Shake the bottle until the liquid turns thick and milky and then apply it to your feet, specifically your heels. You can make this cream and store it for future use as long as you remember to shake the bottle before you use it. The best time to moisturizer your feet is right before bed.  And you can moisturize your feet with more than just store-bought moisturizer — you can also use vegetable oil.  Simply apply a layer of vegetable oil to your feet before bed and then put on a pair of thick socks.  Leave the socks on all night while you sleep and then wipe off any excess oil in the morning. Vegetable oil (and other oils) can stain fabrics, including your socks and sheets.  The best socks to use in this situation are wool socks, as the wool absorbs the oil and doesn’t stain.  If you can’t use wool socks (or if they’re too hot) use a pair of old socks instead. Your face, hands and hair can benefit from masks — so can your feet!  It’s easy to make your own at home using 1 tablespoon of Vaseline (or another similar product) and the juice from 1 lemon.  Mix the Vaseline and lemon juice together in a bowl and apply the mixture to your clean feet before bed.  Wear a pair of socks on your feet all night and wipe off the excess Vaseline with a towel in the morning. Dedicate a pair of old socks to this process so you don’t have...


Soak your feet in warm water and scrub. Prepare a lemon juice soak. Make an Epsom salt foot bath. Harness the power of vinegar.

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One of the most basic solutions is to soak feet for long enough to soften the dead skin and scrub it off with a pumice stone or foot brush. Fill a foot bath or small tub with enough water to cover the tops of your feet and soak for 20 minutes. Gently scrub the dead skin off of your feet. This is best done gently because you don’t want to expose too much raw skin or your feet will hurt. Scrub a little off at a time and repeat over the course of a few days. In a small plastic tub, pour enough lemon juice to cover the bottoms of your feet. If you don’t have enough lemon juice for this, it is okay to dilute with an equal amount of warm water. Soak for ten minutes then rinse and pat dry.  Undiluted lemon juice will give your feet a stronger treatment than if you dilute it with water. Make sure you don’t have any cuts or open sores on your feet as the acid in lemon juice will cause extreme burning in those areas. Fill a foot bath, or small plastic container, half-full with warm to slightly hot water. Add a half cup (118.3 ml) of Epsom salt to the water. Soak feet for 10 minutes. Gently rub with a pumice stone to remove dead skin that the soak has loosened. The works best if you repeat it every two to three days to avoid feet becoming dry again. It may take a few days of soaks to notice a big difference in the skin on your feet. The acidic nature of both white vinegar and apple cider vinegar make them great for removing dead skin. In a foot bath, or small plastic tub, mix equal parts vinegar and mild hot water. For the best results, soak feet for around 45 minutes and gently rub with a pumice afterward. Another way to use this solution is to soak your feet in the vinegar and water mixture for about five minutes and then soak in pure apple cider vinegar for 15 minutes. This makes for a stronger soak than diluted vinegar.


Soak your feet. Exfoliate. Moisturize. See your doctor.

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Although spending a long time in a chlorinated pool or hot bath is not good for the skin, soaking your feet for 15 minutes prior to moisturizing or exfoliating is helpful. Once your feet have healed and are no longer dry and rough, you won't have to soak them for treatment.  Long soaks in a hot bath deplete the natural oils in the skin and the heat reduces the moisture in skin's outer layer, all of which contribute to dry skin, so limit the time you soak. Do not soak your feet more than three times per week or you’ll contribute to the drying skin instead of treating it. You can make different soaking mixtures, including:  A mixture of baking soda, water and a splash of vinegar in a bucket of warm water.  Mild soap (scented if you wish) with a bucket of warm water. Half a cup of epsom salts in a tub of warm water.  A quarter cup of white vinegar in a bucket of warm water. A quarter cup of lemon juice that will dissolve dead and dry skin. Mechanical exfoliation means removing the dead top layer of skin in order to treat the underlying layers. You can use a pumice stone, stiff brush, or loofah after softening the top layers of skin through soaking.  A pumice stone is found at a pharmacy or in the pharmacy department of a large store. You don’t need a specific type of stiff brush. Even a brush from the household cleaning department works as long as you don’t use it for anything else. It's a good idea to soak your feet in warm water or take a warm shower for 10–15 minutes before exfoliating. Once you have removed the outer layer of dead cells it’s time to add moisture back to the skin. Moisturize immediately after a shower or soaking using a non-alcohol based product to trap the moisture that is on the skin and keep the skin moist. Some moisturizers work to seal in the moisture on your skin and others work by penetrating the skin to the dermal layer.  Thick creams like Eucerin and Cetaphil work to trap the moisture in the skin. Other products with lanolin work in the same way. Olive oil has the same effect on the...


Soak your foot in warm water. Apply some antibiotic cream. Take over-the-counter (OTC) medication. Place a cotton ball or dental floss under your ingrown toenail.

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Ingrown toenails should be treated at home as soon as they are recognized (before infection sets in), in order to prevent complications and the need for medical treatment. One of the easiest methods is to soak the affected foot in warm water for between 15–20 minutes, three to four times daily. Soaking can reduce swelling and relieve tenderness.  Consider adding some Epsom salt to your foot bath. It can help disinfect your ingrown toe and help soothe the pain and inflammation. If your ingrown toe is still inflamed after the foot bath, apply an ice cube to it for about five minutes. The ice will numb the pain and combat the inflammation. Apply antibiotic cream, lotion or ointment to your ingrown toe at least a couple of times per day, particularly just before you go to bed in the evening. After the cream has absorbed into the soft tissue surrounding the toenail, apply a bandage. Make sure to change the bandage each time you apply the antibiotic ointment. If your ingrown toenail is particularly inflamed and/or painful, then consider taking some OTC medication for a few days. Anti-inflammatories such as ibuprofen (Motrin, Advil) or naproxen (Aleve) are likely best if you notice lots of swelling. Painkillers (also called analgesics) are likely better for pain without much swelling. The most common OTC painkiller is acetaminophen (Tylenol, Paracetamol).  Anti-inflammatories and analgesics should always be considered short-term strategies for pain control. Taking too many of them at a time or taking them for too long increases your risk of stomach, kidney and liver problems or even organ failure if taken in large quantities.  If you have chronic kidney disease, heart failure, high blood pressure or stroke, or if you are taking anticoagulants, do not take ibuprofen or other nonsteroidal anti-inflammatories. You can also try rubbing a cream/lotion/ointment that contains a natural pain reliever into your sore toe. Menthol, camphor, arnica and capsaicin are all helpful for relieving tenderness. After soaking your...


Soak your jewelry in the soapy water for 20-25 minutes.

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This is the easy part! Just gently place your pieces in the water, set a timer, and walk away. If your jewelry has pearls or onyx stones, don’t soak it. Rather, wrap the metal parts in a soft cloth that has been soaked in warm, soapy water.