Gather steel wool Put your back into it! Use an electric sander for larger pieces of tinware.

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, sandpaper, a wire brush, or a crumpled ball of tinfoil. These easy-to-find items can brush away small rust stains with ease. There's no reason to attempt more involved methods for lighter areas of rust when you can rub them away with common household items. Vigorously scrub your tinware with one of these items using a back and forth motion. You need to put a decent amount of pressure on the tin to effectively clear away the rust. A grinder outfitted with a grinding wheel, stripping or flap disc can easily remove larger areas of rust. There are important factors to consider before using an electric sander.  Sanders, flap discs and fiber discs work best on long, flat patches of rust. In contrast, wire wheels are suggested for corners and curved areas. Make sure the grinder is constantly moving so it doesn't puncture or wear away the tin.  Consider using a mouse detail sander for smaller areas. Always begin with the coarsest grain and carefully move to smaller grains as the rust wears away. If there is significant scratching left on the tinware try using a fine grain sandpaper to smooth out any of the remaining marks.


Gather supplies. Drink plenty of fluids. Take the vitamins as directed. Exercise every day. Eat healthy food. Pay attention to your body.

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You'll need a full range of vitamins and healthy drinks to protect from hyperhydration. This method takes at least a week, but it's healthier than overloading your system with water, which can flush out important vitamins, nutrients, and electrolytes. To do a healthy flush, you'll need to constantly replace what is being flushed out. Stock up on the following:  Multi-vitamins Sports drinks Fresh fruits and veggies Tea (green detox tea Other diuretics (cranberry or apple juice, coffee, etc.) Drink 20 to 40 ounces of sports drink per day to restore your electrolytes and keep you hydrated. Drink roughly 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water to flush your body of toxins. Drink the tea and other diuretics throughout the day as well. Do not drink more than 2 gallons (7.6 L) total of fluids per day. Replenish your body by taking a multivitamin either once or twice a day, as directed on the packaging. Build up as much of a sweat as possible, since sweating is a way to detox your body.  The kidneys and the bladder can only filter so much in such a time. Sweating helps the body excrete waste through your pores, as well as your bladder. Your body will need all the nutrients it can get. Eat plenty of fruits, vegetables, legumes, and lean proteins the week before your drug test. If you feel sick, you could be taking in too much water in too short a time. Your health is more important than passing the drug test, so don't overdo it.


Gather supplies. Dry the husks. Remove the silk. Wet the husks. Prepare the head. Make the head. Make arms. Tie off the waist.

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To make this rustic American-style doll, you'll need corn husks with the silk still on them. Around a dozen corn husks (one or two ears of corn at most) should be enough to make one doll. You'll also need a large bowl of water, scissors to cut the husks, and pins and twine to bind them into shape. Corn husk dolls are made with dried husks. Use a food drier, or set the husks out in the sun for a few days until they become dry and are no longer green. Sun drying the husks is the preferred method because it's more traditional (and corn husk dolls are steeped in both American Indian and colonial tradition), but as long as they're well-dried, the result will be more or less the same. Before the next step, pull the dried silk off of the husks and set it aside. You'll be using it soon, but it needs to stay dry while you soak the husks to keep it from getting soggy. Lay all the silk in generally the same direction rather than heaping or tangling it. When you're ready to make your doll, soak the dried husks in a bowl of water for about 10 minutes. Though it sounds counterintuitive, this won't actually rehydrate the husks you so carefully dried; rather, it will make them temporarily more flexible, so that you can bend them into shape without breaking them. Once the husks have soaked, blot them dry with paper towels and set them aside. If the husks are significantly different in size from one another, now is a good time to tear or clip the largest ones so that they're all roughly the same size. This will help prevent a lopsided doll. Take a corn husk and lay it in front of you with the pointed end out, then lay a bunch of corn silk along its length. Next, lay two husks on top of the first husk and silk, also with their points away from you, and add more silk. Repeat everything one more time (for a total of six husks and hour sections of silk), and then tie the whole stack together about 1 ½ inches from the flat ends of the husks. Use scissors to round the flat ends of the husks. Pick up the husk and silk bundle and hold...


Gather supplies. Empty the bong and rinse and fill it with warm water. Disassemble your bong. Add coarse salt and rubbing alcohol to your bong. Plug the holes and shake it up. Rinse and repeat.

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Before cleaning your bong, you'll need to round up some supplies, including: a sink or basin; coarse salt, rice, or baking soda; rubbing alcohol, vinegar, or another cleaner; clean water; and latex gloves. While wearing your latex gloves, empty out your bong as well as you can. Pour out old bong water and remove any spent herb. Then give it a good rinse with warm water to remove any remaining solid particles. Finally, fill the bong part way with some of the warm water you're using. Take it apart so that the individual pieces can be cleaned. Remove all movable parts, including the pipe and mouthpiece. As you take your bong apart, check for any damage such as chips or cracks. You'll need to replace any damaged pieces before using your bong again. Next, you'll need to add an abrasive and a cleaner into the base of the bong so that they can work together to clean the inside. Coarse salt and isopropyl alcohol typically work best for this, but you can also use vinegar and rice or baking soda. Alternatively, you can use something like Formula 420, in which case skip the salt. Pour it in and proceed as normal. Use your hands, fingers, and thumbs to plug or block the open holes of the bong so that your abrasive and cleaner don't cause a big mess. Shake it for about five minutes to get the best possible result. Empty the cleaning solution into a sink and rinse it out completely with clean water. Repeat the cleaning process as many times as you need to, but once is usually enough.


Gather supplies. Scour for bamboo. Choose a quality bamboo.

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To make a bamboo flute, you’ll need a drill, a rotary tool such as a Dremel, and attachments for it. You’ll also need a general purpose hand-held sander, masking tape, a saw, a ruler or measuring tape, and a box cutter or sharp knife. You should be able to find all of these items from the hardware store. Of course, you’ll need some bamboo as well, and you don’t always have to buy it. Even if it is not a plant that is native to your area, sometimes you can find it growing on the side of the road because these plants tend to take root and flourish almost anywhere. However, if you are unable to find bamboo out in nature, head to your local hardware store and buy from there. Also, look in your local yellow pages. Carpet stores sometimes have bamboo flooring that comes in bamboo rods that you could use. When you’re selecting bamboo, make sure that the diameter is  between 3/4 inches and 7/8 inches. However, thin-walled bamboo about 1/8 inch-thick or so produces the best sound. Also, look for a good piece of seasoned bamboo that isn’t cracked. It shouldn’t be really flexible or have any visible cracks, rips, splinters or holes. Make sure that the bamboo has at least one node -- a notch where it is solid inside instead of hollow like the other parts of the bamboo. It’s usually marked by circular ridges that look like joints on the bamboo. One node at the end of the flute will become what is known as the  “cork.” The node should be smooth and without holes on the inside or the outside so that the flute has proper tone.


Gather supplies. Throw out unwanted items. Pack a suitcase of essentials. Pack fragile items. Pack small items. Roll up rugs and posters.

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Before you start packing, make sure you have all the supplies you need. Depending on the amount of things in your room, buy at least 10 boxes ranging from large to small. Also get a roll of bubble wrap, masking tape, a black marker, and a trash bag or two.  Also consider getting one or two wardrobe boxes for packing your nicer clothes. If you are transporting posters, buy cylindrical poster containers to protect them from damage. Keep tools like screwdrivers and cleaning supplies handy as well. Make sure you are wearing comfortable clothes that you can move around in, as well as sneakers or other flat bottomed, closed-toed shoes. Even though it may seem more efficient, don’t buy only large boxes. Large boxes can get extremely heavy when packed, which will make carrying them a pain. You don’t want pack things that you’ll eventually just throw out when unpacking. Before you start packing, look around your room for any trash, papers or debris that you don’t need. Then, go through your possessions, especially your clothes, and see if there are any items that you no longer use. You can throw these items out or donate them if they are things like clothing or useable electronics. Before packing everything away, separate out the items you may need during the move. This may include a few outfits and toiletries like deodorant that you may keep in your bedroom. Also pack any electronics that you’ll need during the days of your move. Pack all your essentials in a backpack or small suitcase that is easy to carry around. It’s a good idea to get fragile items wrapped up and packed away before you tackle the rest of your room. Take any fragile items like lamps or glass ornaments and wrap them liberally in bubble-wrap. Tape the bubble-wrap so that the item stays secure inside. Pack a small box, or several small boxes, with fragile items.  Make sure that each box of fragile items is full so that the items don’t slide around. If there’s a lot of space left in the box, stuff it with tissue paper or bubble-wrap. After you are...


Gather the cleaning materials and prepare the toilet or bidet. Add bleach to the toilet or bidet and scrub. Flush the toilet or bidet and clean the brush.

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To clean your toilet or bidet, you will need bleach, a measuring cup, and a toilet brush. Using the measuring cup, pour out 1/4 cup of bleach. Before cleaning, flush the toilet or bidet.  If your toilet or bidet has rust stains, do not use bleach. Bleach will set the rust stains, not remove them. To remove rust, apply 1/2 cup (64 g) of baking soda to the spot and spray it with white vinegar. Let it sit for 30 minutes before flushing. Before using bleach on your bidet, check with the manufacturer to determine if it safe to use this cleaning product. Many bidets are made out of materials that may be damaged by bleach. After lifting up the lid and seat, carefully pour the 1/4 cup of bleach into the toilet bowl or bidet. Immediately wipe up any bleach that splashes onto the rim or floor with a clean rag. Scrub the interior of the toilet or bidet with the toilet brush.  Scrub under the entire rim of the toilet or bidet. Gradually spiral the brush down towards the waterline, scrubbing as you go. Once you reach the chute, insert the brush into and out of the chute several times.  Bleach can cause damage or irritation to your eyes, skin, and or lungs. Take precautions to protect yourself from the corrosive substance—wear gloves, protective eyewear, and work in a well ventilated area. Immediately wash any areas of your body that come into contact with bleach. After scrubbing the toilet or bidet, place the toilet brush under the rim. Flush the toilet or bidet and allow the fresh water to rinse the toilet brush. Gently tap the brush on the side of the toilet and return it to its holder.


Gather the clothes. Machine wash your clothes. Take the clothes to the dry cleaners.

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If you have lice, you will need to wash your clothes to help you make sure you and your house are rid of them. Before you do this you need to determine which clothes you need to wash. Gather together all the clothes that you wore or used over the past two days before you noticed and treated the lice.  You should include everything, including things such as scarves and hats. When you do this you should also gather all the towels, bedding and cloth toys that you have used in the two days. Once you have gathered together all the clothes, you need to wash them at a high temperature in your machine. You should set the temperature to at least 130°F (54°C). Machine washing clothes at this temperature will kill the lice.  If for some reason you cannot use a washing machine, you can try submerging the clothes in hot water, at least 140°F (60°C).  After washing your clothes, dry them in a dryer set to a high heat. If you have clothes that cannot be machine washed you will need to try some alternative methods for killing the lice. You can take these items to the dry cleaners and have them washed there. This is a way to clean the clothes without damaging them, while still killing the lice.  This method could be used for woollen clothes that you don't want to shrink in a hot wash, or silk clothes that are too delicate for the washing machine. You should inform the person working at the dry cleaners about the lice so they can take extra care. You may be able to use a home dry cleaning kit if this involves you putting the clothes in the dryer on a high heat for at least fifteen minutes. As long as the clothes are exposed to a temperature of 130 degrees Fahrenheit for at least 5 to 6 minutes, the lice should be killed.


Gather the dough. Roll each third into even Baguettes. Make a plait with the bread. Proof until doubled in size.

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Split in half to make 2 loaves or make 1 large loaf. From this stage, cut each portion into 3 pieces. It's best to use a scale and calculator for best accuracy to ensure each portion is equal. You may also divide it into 4 for an even more attractive plait, but it's better with the big 1kg loaf to be made into a 4-plait. Gather the three together and pinch at one end, if desired you may tuck this seam underneath the finished plait. This is just like plaiting hair, otherwise you may look at the three portions as a simple pattern, folding one strand over another: ABC, BAC, BCA, CBA, CAB and so on until you run out of dough. You may mist with water and dip in seeds if you wish, or use an egg wash for an attractive finish. Ideally on a floured cloth or the baking tray. Bake 30-35 minutes for the smaller 500g loaves. You may also plait small rolls for an attractive finish, or even more attractive is to fold the plait in on itself to make a loop. Flatten the roll slightly and allow to proof.


Gather the eggs in the spring. Collect the eggs in the morning. Provide nest boxes. Know which geese to collect from. Clean the eggs. Fumigate the eggs. Store the eggs briefly.

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In the Northern Hemisphere, most geese breeds begin laying their eggs in March or April. Chinese breeds begin in winter, though, around January or February. Note that these months will change if you life in the Southern Hemisphere. Most breeds lay eggs in August or September, with Chinese breeds laying eggs in June and July. Geese generally lay their eggs in the morning, so you should collect them late in the morning.  You should also collect eggs at least four times throughout the day to catch any that arrive at unusual times. Do not give your geese access to swimming facilities until later in the morning, after you have collected the first batch of eggs. Otherwise, the eggs could break. Line each box with soft nesting material, like shavings or straw.  The use of nest boxes can prevent more egg breaks. Provide one 20 inch (50 cm) nest box for every three geese in your flock. If you want to speed up the production of your eggs, you can also shine artificial light on the nest boxes throughout the day and evening. As a general rule, fertility is 15 percent higher and hatchability is 20 percent higher when eggs are collected from a mature female geese, rather than a geese who is only a year old and in her first season of laying.  Of course, your odds will also improve when you select eggs from healthy, well-fed geese. Geese that are allowed to swim generally tend to be cleaner, which keeps the eggs cleaner, as well. Dirty eggs should be lightly cleaned with a brush, a piece of sandpaper, or a piece of steel wool. Avoid using water to clean the eggs.  If you must use moisture, wipe the eggs down lightly with a clean, damp cloth. The temperature of the water should be about 104 degrees Fahrenheit (40 degrees Celsius), since it must remain warmer than the temperature of the egg. Warm water causes the egg to "sweat" dirt out of its pores. Never soak the egg in water since bacteria is likely to grow if you do. Dry the eggs thoroughly before storing them. Fumigation disinfects the eggs. You can technically skip this...


Gather the ends of the fabric and pin them together. Sew the arms together on each side, over the edges of the arm material. Pin the sides of the robe together in the same fashion. Fold the fleece approximately 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) on each side of the center slit. Sew a 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) hem into the edge of each center slit. Sew together a robe waist band from your scrap pieces of fleece. Turn your robe inside out and try it on. Cut 2 piece of scrap fleece that are 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) long and 2 inches (5 cm) wide. Put the finishing touches on your robe as desired. Finished.

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Since fleece doesn't fray, you can gather it right at the edge for a 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) seam allowance. Remember that this will be on the inside of your robe. Sew down each side on your sewing machine. Pin it into place. If you want to have a robe/blanket, sometimes referred to as a "snuggie," you can leave the back open so that you can wear the robe backwards when you are sitting in a chair or lying on a couch. Cut a piece that is approximately 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide. If 1 piece of side fabric is not long enough, sew 2 pieces together. Test the fleece band around your waist to see if you can wrap it around you and tie it comfortably. Mark a place on the back of each side of your waist with a pin. When you take the robe off you can measure to make sure the pins are at the same height on your robe. Hand sew these loops onto the places where you have attached the pins. This will help to hold your waist band in place when it is not tied. You may want to fold in the edges of the arm holes, neck hole and bottom and sew a hem. You can also do a blanket stitch around all the open sides of the robe in a contrasting thread.


Gather the information that identifies each source. Put the author and title of the source first. Indicate if the source is located in a “container. List other contributors, if applicable. Provide the edition, version, volume, and number information, if present. Identify the publisher and date. List location information. Indicate whether the source has a second container. Format your works cited page.

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The most recent set of MLA guidelines relies on a set of principles that will allow you to cite any type of source, rather than a set of separate rules for different media (book, website, film, interview, podcast, etc.). You will list the details, with a period between each. Include any information you can find on the work’s:  Author(s) Title Version Number Publisher Publication date Location (where you found the source) List the author (if known) starting with the last name. Follow with the full title of the source. If there is no author, just begin with the title. For instance: Francis, John. Planetwalker.  Generally, the titles of things like songs, poems, and articles are given in quotation marks. Books, films, television series and other large works are italicized. If a work has multiple authors, list them in the same order they are given in the source. Put only the first author in last name, first name order. ” Some sources are contained within other other works. This applies to both traditional and new media, so for simplicity the MLA now refers to the works sources are nested in as “containers.” If your source has a container, list it after the title. Examples of containers include:  An article in a journal title (follow the article title in quotation marks with the journal title in italics: Jacobus, Francis. "Early American Pottery Designs." American Historical Review.) A website hosting an article (follow the article title in quotation marks with the brief web address in italics: Miller, Frank. "Gotham City at Night." CNN.com.) A poem in a poetry collection (list the title of the collection in italics after the title of the poem in quotation marks: Yeats, William Butler. "Sailing to Byzantium." Twentieth Century Poetry.) A television series (list the television series in italics after the episode title in quotation marks: "Hush." Buffy the Vampire Slayer.) Some works may have contributors other than the primary author. For instance, a book may have a translator, editor or illustrator. If this...


Gather the information you need to calculate the loan’s amortization. Set up a spreadsheet. Calculate the interest portion of the monthly payment for month one. Compute the principal portion of the payment for month one. Use the new principal amount at the end of month one to calculate amortization for month two. Determine the principal repayment for month two.

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You’ll need the principal amount and the interest rate. To calculate amortization, you also need the term of the loan and the payment amount each period. In this case, you will calculate monthly amortization.  The principal amount is the current loan balance outstanding ($100,000). Your interest rate (6%) is the annual rate on the loan. To calculate amortization, you will convert the annual interest rate into a monthly rate. The term of the loan is 360 months (30 years). Since amortization is a monthly calculation in this example, the term is stated in months, not years. Your monthly payment is $599.55. The dollar amount of the payment stays constant. However, the portion of the payment that is principal or interest will change. You will mostly be paying off the interest when you start making payments, and then your payments will start to go to the balance. This calculation has a few moving parts and would best be accomplished in a spreadsheet where you've pre-loaded all your relevant info into column headings like: Principal, Interest Payment, Principal Payment, and Ending Principal.  The total number of rows below those headings would be 360 to account for each monthly payment. A spreadsheet makes the calculations significantly quicker because if done correctly you only have to enter a given equation once (or twice, as when you are using the previous month's calculation to fuel all subsequent calculations). Once entered correctly, simply drag your equation(s) down through the remaining cells to compute amortization over the life of the loan. Even better is to set aside a separate set of columns and input your main loan variables (e.g. monthly payment, interest rate) as this will allow you to quickly visualize how changes will affect each other over the life of the loan. You can also try an online amortization calculator. This calculation requires several steps. You need to convert the interest rate to a monthly amount. The monthly rate is used to compute interest for the month.   Loans that amortize, such...


Gather the ingredients and items needed before starting. Measure the flavoring. Pour the sugar and glucose into the saucepan. Add the measured coloring to the syrup. Remove the cover. Remove the syrup from the heat. Using a soup spoon or a dessert spoon, drop small, round shapes of syrup onto the parchment covered tray. Allow to cool and harden.

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Have everything in place. Depending on whether you're using 3 or 4 flavorings, measure thirds or quarters in a measuring jug. Add 150ml/1/4 pint of water. Gently heat and stir well to ensure that the sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil, then cover and boil for another 3 minutes. Boil until the temperature reaches 130ºC/265ºF, the hard ball stage. Separate quickly into three or four batches. Pour in the chosen flavoring for each batch. Carefully add a lollipop stick to each round, covering with a little more syrup if needed. Carefully remove them from the parchment paper. Wrap in clear cellophane or stick into a lollipop holder and they're ready to be shared around or given away as a gift.


Gather the ingredients and supplies. Mix the drink. Prep the glasses and serve the drinks. Finished.

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Kids and adults will love this non-alcoholic fishbowl drink! You will need:  3 tablespoons Water 3 tablespoons Sugar 1 teaspoon Coconut Extract 3 drops Blue Food Coloring 2 12 ounce cans Lemon-Lime Soda Ice 1 6 ounce box of Nerds® candy 9 to 12 Swedish Fish candies 3 Straws 1 pitcher 1 microwave safe bowl 3 glasses Pour the water and sugar into a microwave safe bowl. Heat in the microwave for 1 minute. Take the bowl out and stir the mixture until the sugar is completely dissolved. Pour the mixture into a pitcher. Pour in the coconut extract and soda. Add 3 drops of blue food coloring to the pitcher and stir. Divide the Nerds® candy between the 3glasses. The Nerds® candy should cover the bottom of each glass. Add ice to each cup. Position 3 to 4 Swedish Fish candies between the ice and the glass. Pour the mixture over the ice and add a straw. Serve the delicious non-alcoholic beverage to your guests!


Gather the ingredients and supplies. Mix the liquids. Prep the fishbowls. Pour the drinks. Add the finishing touches and serve.

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This summertime drink requires several liquors, a few candies, fresh fruit, and a few fishbowls! You will need:  10 ounces Vodka 10 ounces Coconut Rum 6 ounces Blue Curacao Liqueur 12 ounces Sweet-and-Sour Mix 20 ounces Pineapple Juice 32 ounces Lemon-Lime Soda Blue food coloring 1 6 ounce box of Nerds® candy 12 to 18 Swedish Fish candies 1 Fresh Lemon 1 Fresh Lime 1 Fresh Orange Ice 3 small Fishbowls 9 Drinking Straws Find a large pitcher or container. Pour the Vodka, Coconut Rum, Blue Curacao Liqueur, Sweet-and-Sour Mix, Pineapple Juice, and Lemon-Lime soda into the pitcher or container. Stir with a spoon. Cover the pitcher or container tightly and keep it in the fridge until you’re ready to serve the drink. Thoroughly wash and dry the 3 fishbowls. Divide the Nerds® candy evenly between the 3 fishbowls. The Nerds® should cover the bottom of the fishbowl. Fill the fishbowl with ice. Wedge 4 to 6 Swedish fish candies between the ice and the glass—the ice will hold the fish in place. Grab the pitcher or container out the of the fridge. Uncover and add the blue food coloring to the mix. Add a few drops at a time and stir until the liquid becomes the perfect shade of ocean blue. Pour or ladle the mixture into the 3 fish bowls. Try to divide the mixture between the 3 fishbowls as evenly as possible. Wash the lemon, lime, and orange before thinly slicing the fruit. Add 2 to 3 slices of each fruit to the top of each fishbowl. Top each drink off with Lemon-Lime soda. Put 3 straws into each fishbowl and serve the drinks to your guests.


Gather the ingredients for making spicy Spanish rice. Heat 1/3 cup of vegetable oil in a pan. Place 1 lb. ground beef in the pan. Add 1 medium chopped onion, 1 chopped green pepper, and 1 minced garlic clove to the beef and oil and stir the ingredients together. Cook the beef. Drain the oil. Stir in the rest of the ingredients – except the tomato paste. Bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to low. Cover the pan and let it simmer for 20 minutes or until the rice is tender. Stir in 2 tbsp. of tomato paste. Remove from heat. Serve.

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Here are the ingredients that you'll need:  1 lb. ground beef 1 medium chopped onion 1 chopped green pepper 1 minced garlic clove 1 can (14-½ ounces) stewed tomatoes 1-½ cups water 1 cup uncooked long grain rice 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. chili powder ½ tsp. dried thyme ¼  tsp. dried basil ¼  tsp. pepper 2 tbsp. tomato paste French bread Wait until the oil is bubbling a bit to proceed.   Continue to cook the beef and veggies until the beef is no longer pink. Hold the pan over the sink and carefully pour the excess oil out of the pan. If you don't get rid of the oil, the Spanish rice will be too rich. Stir in 1 can (14-½ ounces) of stewed tomatoes, 1-½ cups of water, 1 cup of uncooked long grain rice, 1 tsp. of salt, 1 tsp. of chili powder, ½ tsp. of dried thyme, ¼  tsp. of dried basil, and ¼  tsp. of pepper into the beef mixture. Keep stirring the ingredients to combine the flavors.    Cook the Spanish rice until the paste is heated. Let it sit for 1–2 minutes to absorb the flavors and any remaining water. Serve this tasty dish as a main course with a side of French bread. This recipe makes 4-6 servings.


Gather the ingredients for making spicy Spanish rice. Turn on your grill to high. Place the vegetables on the grill. Char the vegetables, turning them frequently. Dice the peppers once they've cooled. Combine the peppers and corn together. Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Place 1 diced yellow onion, one peeled and diced chayote squash, and ½ diced yellow bell pepper in the onion. Sauté the ingredients until they start to caramelize. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste. Stir in and sauté 6 minced garlic cloves and 2 cups of basmati rice for 3–4 minutes. Add 5 cups chicken stock to the ingredients. Cook the ingredients for 10 minutes. Stir in the rest of the ingredients. Cook these ingredients until the rice is tender. Turn off the heat. Garnish. Serve.

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Here are the ingredients that you'll need:  1 diced red bell pepper 1 diced poblano pepper 1 diced jalapeño pepper 1 diced serrano pepper 1 shucked ear corn 1 tbsp. canola oil 1 diced yellow onion ½ diced yellow bell pepper 1 peeled and diced chayote squash 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. cracked black pepper ½ tsp. cayenne pepper 6 minced cloves garlic 2 cups basmati rice 5 cups chicken stock ¼  cup chopped Spanish olives ½ cup canned black beans ½ cup diced tomatoes 1/3 cup chopped cilantro  Brush the vegetables with olive oil first to keep them from burning. Then, arrange 1 red bell pepper, 1 poblano pepper, 1 jalapeño pepper, 1 serrano pepper, and 1 shucked ear of corn on the grill. Continue to do this until the corn starts to brown a bit and the peppers have blistered. As the smaller peppers finish cooking first, place them in a small paper bag and close it. Wait a few minutes for the peppers to sweat and to cool off, and then dice them into thin square pieces. Place them in a small bowl and stir them. Set this bowl aside for later.  Make sure to remove the innards of the bell pepper and squash before you dice them.      Stir in the prepared corn and peppers, ¼  cup of chopped Spanish olives, ½ cup of drained canned black beans, and ½ cup of diced tomatoes diced tomatoes to the ingredients. Keep stirring the ingredients until the flavors are blended. This should take about 6–8 minutes.  Add 1/3 cup of cilantro to the Spanish rice and stir it in. Serve this tasty spicy dish as a main course.


Gather the ingredients for the red sauce. Gather the ingredients for the white sauce. Boil water and add the pasta noodles of your choice. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet. Remove the vegetables from heat and puree them. Melt the butter in large saucepan. Allow the sauce to thicken and add the cheeses. Put the drained pasta in a large serving bowl. Finished.

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You will make the red sauce first. Go ahead and grab the ingredients for both sauces, but keep the red sauce ingredients separated from the white. The overall prep time for the entire meal is approximately 30-40 minutes. Serves 2.  1 chopped red pepper; 1/8 of a sliced red onion; 1 small chopped tomato; Clove of garlic; Italian spices of your choice (recommended are basil, rosemary, and oregano); Pinch of salt & pepper; You will make the white sauce immediately after you complete the red sauce.  1 tablespoon butter; 1 tablespoon flour; 1 ½ cups of milk or heavy cream; 1/2 cup of parmesan; 1 ½ cups of pasta of your choice (recommended are rotini, fusilli or a stuffed pasta. Cook the pasta according to the directions on the package (different brands vary). Carefully drain the pasta noodles and set them aside. While the noodles are boiling, begin working on the red sauce. Sauté the chopped red pepper, sliced red onion, chopped tomato and minced garlic in the skillet over medium heat. As you sauté, add the Italian spices you like best (recommended are basil, rosemary, and oregano), along with a pinch of both salt and pepper. Sauté for approximately 1 minute or so. Transfer the vegetables from the skillet into a blender. Put the top on tightly and puree until the sauce is smooth. If the consistency of the sauce is thicker than you’d like, add a little olive oil while you’re blending. Once pureed, set it aside. Add 1 tablespoon of butter to the saucepan and melt it over low-medium heat. Once it’s melted, add 1 tablespoon of flour and use a whisk to mix the two together. When the mixture begins to bubble, begin slowly adding the cream to the saucepan.  Add a little cream, stir, allow it to start bubbling again and then add a little more cream. Stir and repeat this process until all of the cream has been added to the saucepan. Stir frequently.Continue slowly stirring the sauce in the pan until the consistency thickens a little. At that point, add ½ cup of parmesan cheese to the skillet. Mix well and continue stirring...


Gather the ingredients.

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Acne tends to pop up during stressful times of life. This face mask soothes inflamed skin and includes essential oil to calm your mind, too. Take a trip to the grocery store for the following ingredients:  Lemon juice, which has astringent properties and tones your face. Buy a fresh lemon and squeeze the juice; pre-squeezed juice may have preservatives that are hard on your sensitive facial skin. Honey, which softens the skin and eases inflammation. Egg white, which brightens and tones skin. Lavender or rosemary essential oil.


Gather the ingredients. Blend all ingredients together, using a blender or food processor. Once thoroughly blended, pour into a glass.

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In addition to one or two of your ripe bananas, you'll need:  1 big handful of chopped spinach or kale 1 cup of plain yogurt 1 big spoonful of peanut butter 1 diced green apple 3/4 cup dairy, soy, or almond milk Cinnamon and honey, to taste If needed, stop the blender at 20 second intervals to scrape the sides and mix ingredients with a rubber spatula. If you'd like, garnish with a handful of your favorite granola, berries, or a dollop of whipped cream.


Gather the ingredients. Boil oregano and garlic. Combine with honey. Steep overnight.

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To make a natural cough syrup, you need garlic, oregano, and honey. You need ½ cup of honey, 2 cloves of garlic, and 2 sprigs of fresh oregano. You can measure out about one teaspoon to one tablespoon of oregano instead.  Garlic, honey, and oregano are antimicrobials that help naturally fight colds and coughs. You can also add ½ cup of onion and one lemon if you want. Boil the garlic cloves and the oregano with about ½ cup of water. Boil for about five minutes. Let the boiling mixture cool for a few minutes, then pour into a cup with the honey. Mix together. Now, it is ready to drink. An alternate way to make this cough syrup is to let it set overnight. In a jar, put the oregano at the bottom, then the garlic, then lemon and onion. Pour the honey and water over the ingredients, making sure the water covers all the ingredients completely. Put the lid on the jar so it is airtight, and let it steep overnight. Strain the liquid the next morning and only drink the liquid.  Store in your refrigerator for a week. This makes an even stronger cough syrup because the garlic and onion (if you add onion) are stronger and have more medicinal properties if they aren’t cooked.


Gather the ingredients. Cream the butter. Blend dry ingredients. Combine the ingredients. Beat until the mixture is spreading consistency. Add 1 Tbsp (15 ml) vanilla. Add powdered sugar. Use the finished frosting.

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You'll need:  1 cup of superfine sugar 6 tablespoons of butter or margarine (softened) 1/2 cup of cocoa powder 1 cup of powdered sugar 1/3 cup of milk (whole or 2%—not skim) 1 tablespoon vanilla extract. In a large bowl, whip room-temperature butter at medium speed with an electric mixer, or with a whisk, until it is fluffy.  Beating the butter with an electric mixer will be quicker than beating it by hand with a whisk. Either way, using room temperature butter will make it easier to whip to the right consistency while minimizing the risk of lumps. Similarly, use butter over margarine when possible. When opting for margarine, use softened stick margarine over soft spreadable margarine, since both butter and stick margarine will hold their form better, resulting in a thicker frosting. In a small bowl, sift and whisk to combine the cocoa powder and granulated sugar.  Sifting the ingredients should help break up and eliminated lumps that may negatively impact the consistency of your frosting. Superfine sugar is actually preferable since granulated sugar can give the frosting a grainy taste, but granulated sugar can be used if you are unable to find superfine sugar. You can also substitute additional powdered sugar, but only use 1 cup (250 ml) during this step, and be aware that it will make the frosting much sweeter. Add the cocoa/sugar mixture to the creamed butter alternately with the milk. Do not add too much milk, or the mixture will become too thin. Add the milk about 1 to 2 Tbsp (15 to 30 ml) at a time, mixing well after each addition, and stop once the mixture seems thoroughly moist. If it's too thick, add more milk, 1 tsp (5 ml) at a time. If it's too thin, add more cocoa/sugar mixture, 1 tsp (5 ml) at a time.  Additional cocoa/sugar mixture should be prepared in a ratio of 2 parts granulated sugar to 1 part cocoa powder. The mixture should be spreadable, but still somewhat thin at this point. Once the frosting has reached the right consistency, add the vanilla extract. Blend well to combine. Whisk in...


Gather the ingredients. Fill the molds. Leave overnight.

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This version includes dried herbs and flowers directly in the bath bombs for a pretty, natural appearance. After you have sprayed the mixture, it starts to harden, so you need to be quick. Pick up little handfuls of the bath bomb mixture and compress it down into large dome molds or silicone ice cube tray holes. Layer the mixture on top of the last layer. Push down hard to get the best results. The next day, they should be dry. When they are, you can push out your bath bombs and use them! Use within several months.


Gather the ingredients. Stir the butter into the polenta. Spread the polenta into an oiled baking dish. Place the dish in the oven. Remove the dish from the oven.

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The amount will serve about 3 to 4 people. Break it up with a wooden spoon and mix until it is completely melted and combined. Stir in the thyme, and season to taste with salt and pepper. The size of the dish will determine how thin or thick your fried polenta slices will be. For thinner pieces, use a large dish, and for thicker pieces, use a small one. Bake for 20 minutes, or until the polenta is completely set. It will not turn brown or golden. Allow it to cool for a few minutes, then cut it into slices to serve.  Try using cookie cutters to cut the polenta into interesting shapes.     Serve with marinara sauce for a delicious Italian treat.


Gather the lotion ingredients. Store the lotion.

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You'll need 1 cup (80 g) of aloe vera gel, 1/2 cup (115 g) of grated beeswax, 1/2 cup (112 g) of oil (sweet almond, grapeseed or jojoba), 1 teaspoon of vitamin E oil, and 15 drops of an essential oil of your choice. You'll also need a jar with a sealable lid to store the aloe lotion. It should hold about 2 cups (16 ounces) of lotion. You can find most of these natural ingredients at a health store or natural goods supplier. Once the lotion has reached lotion consistency, use a clean spatula to spoon it into your clean jar. Screw on the lid and refrigerate the lotion so it will last longer. The lotion will last for around a month if you keep it in the refrigerator. If you think you'll use up the mixture sooner than that, you can keep the lotion out at room temperature. To store the lotion at room temperature, keep it tightly sealed and try to use it within a few weeks.


Gather the materials for your can-tenna. Create a hole in the bottom of the can. Mount your antenna for a USB-dongle receiver. Prepare your USB-based can-tenna. Mount your can-tenna. Position your antenna properly.

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To create a can-tenna, you need a beer can (or a Pringles can), a pair of scissors and duct tape. You can use this type of antenna for traditional routers as well as for USB-dongle-style Wi-Fi receivers. For traditional routers, create a hole in the bottom of the can. Make this hole as close to the center of the can as possible. The closer it is to the center, the better will be its chances of enhancing Wi-Fi signal strength. For this, you need a USB male-female cable. You can purchase this at any dollar store. Here is how you can prepare your USB-based antenna:  Cut a rectangular hole in the bottom of the can. This will hold the receiver in place, helping it to sit snugly inside the can. Attach a piece of the duct tape to the back of your receiver. Place another piece of the tape in such a way that it covers the bottom of your can. Carefully tape the can-tenna to the receiver. Make sure that your can-tenna is securely taped up. Allow enough space for the wire to sit neatly in front. You can use flexible clamps to offer more support to your antenna and hold it in place. The can-tenna is capable of increasing your Wi-Fi range, provided that you do the following:  Make sure that your antenna directly faces the area that you will be accessing the internet from. Keep changing your antenna’s angle and note the signal strength on your receiver in each position. Use the position which indicates the highest signal strength.


Gather the materials needed for the consecration. Set up for the ritual. Stand and light the incense or smudge. Light the candle and hold the crystal. Use the crystal to disperse the negative energies. Say a prayer of thanks to end the ritual.

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You need to consecrate your wood to cleanse it of any old energies before carving your wand. You will need a few items set up to perform this ritual.  A white candle A sage or cedar smudge or sagewood incense A large feather A clear quartz crystal A lighter or matches A small altar to hold the wood To perform the ritual, you will start facing North. Place the altar with the wood on it to your left, and the tools to perform the ritual on your right. Standing facing north, begin the ritual by lighting the incense and saying a prayer for energy and assistance. Place the candle in front of you and light it while saying a prayer to acknowledge the divine presence around you. Hold the crystal in both of your hands and imagine the white light of divine knowledge flowing through the top of your head and through your arms into the crystal. Place a thought in the crystal about cleansing the wood of any negative energies, and then place the crystal back down to the right. Hold the crystal above the wood and envision it absorbing the negative energies being released from the wood. Envision the energy moving through the crystal an out into the universe to be dissipated. Then place the crystal on top of the wood and ask that its positive energy be placed into the wood. Close your eyes and thank the divine for helping you clear the negative energy from your wood. Blow out the candle and then clean up the tools used for the ritual.


Gather the materials needed to build an “on-the-ground” tumbling composter. Drill two holes into the lid and bottom of your container using a 7/8” drill bit. Create aeration holes all over your container. Drill two holes straight through each end of your two metal or aluminum pipes using a 1/4" metal drill bit. Drill two additional holes into each pipe, and then thread your rod through those holes. Secure the pipe and rod structure to your container. Fill your tumbling composter with composting ingredients and secure the lid. Test the security of your lid by rolling your new tumbling composter across the ground.

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An inexpensive and less complicated way to build your own tumbling composter is by creating an “on the ground” tumbling composter, which is simply a container outfitted to hold compost that you “turn” by simply rolling the container across the ground.  Purchase or obtain a large cylindrical container with a lid that fits tight.  A garbage can works best, and is likely the easiest to find.  Select either a plastic or metal garbage can that will hold at least 30 gallons; large containers used for composting hold 55 gallons.  Wash the garbage can or container thoroughly if it has been used.  Additional materials you’ll need include:  Two 48" lengths of 1/2" metal/aluminum pipe One 36" length of 1/4" steel threaded rod (zinc plated) Four 2" long 1/4" bolts Eight 1/4" nuts A 1/4" metal drill bit A 7/8" drill bit Drill Hacksaw Measuring tape Ear and eye protection 2 elastic bungee cords that are the same length as the can's diameter (optional) The holes you’ll drill into the lid need to be 4” from the outer edge of the lid and directly across from each other, or specifically 180 degrees apart.  The holes at the bottom of the container need to be 2” from the edge.  You’ll need to place the holes at the bottom in a sunken part of the container’s base because you’ll be sticking metal or aluminum pipes through these holes and you want your tumbling composter to be able to stand upright once assembled. Drill several holes, about 15-20, into the top and bottom and along the sides of the container using your drill and a 1/4” drill bit.  Space the holes evenly.  The holes will allow oxygen to flow freely throughout your tumbling composter. Make sure to place them as close to the end of pipes as possible.  Doing so will enable your tumbling composter to stand up properly. Once the pipes and connected rod are placed inside the container, the rod will need to rest in the middle of the container.  Therefore, your two additional holes must measure at half the height of your container.  Measure the height of your container and...


Gather the materials needed. Cool the mixture.

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You will need cornstarch, water, a pot, tempera paint, and a sealable container to make your paint thicker. Have these materials ready when you begin this project. When the mixture is smooth and thick, remove it from the heat and allow it to cool. Stir the mixture after it has completely cooled.


Gather the materials you’ll need. Remove 1 inch (2.5 cm) of coating from the ends of each wire. Cut 2 inches (5.1 cm) off the top of a 3 −7⁄8 inches (5.4 cm) styrofoam cone. Paint the lighthouse in a manner that you desire. Glue the cone on a piece of 12 by 12 inches (30 by 30 cm) cardboard. Cut two slits in the plastic lid. Feed the wires through the holes in the lid. Glue the socket to the lid using the circle you marked earlier. Connect the wires to the socket. Glue the lid to the top of the cone. Connect the battery to the ends of the wire. Place a lid over your light.

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To build the lighthouse, you’ll need some materials you probably already have, including various acrylic paints and paintbrushes, tacky craft glue, a pencil, scissors, 6 brass paper fasteners, a knife, a ruler, old newspapers, a plastic lid from a small margarine container that measures 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) in diameter, and a D battery.  You’ll also need to go to the craft store for some materials, including:  A 9 x 3-7/8 in (22.9 x 9.8 cm) styrofoam cone A thick piece of cardboard measuring 12 by 12 inches (30 by 30 cm) Two 16-inch (40.6 cm) pieces of #18 insulated wire A small socket with a lightbulb Using wire strippers, grip the wire at the point where you want to strip the coating away, then pull the wire strippers toward the end you’re stripping.  If you don’t have wire strippers, use a sharp knife to cut slowly into the wire 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the end.  Cut all the way around the wire without cutting through it, then pull the coating off the end. Lie the cone on its side, then use a sharp knife to cut straight through it.  If you’re worried about making a straight cut, use a pencil to lightly draw the line along which you’ll cut the cone. You can paint the lighthouse a solid color, or give it stripes.  There is no right or wrong way to paint your model lighthouse, so paint it as you like.  Acrylic craft paint is the best type of paint to use on styrofoam. Styrofoam is absorbent, so paint on a few thick layers to ensure the paint is visible. Before you start painting, protect your work surface by placing a few old newspapers on it. The cardboard should be thick enough that it does not bend when you wave it up and down. Place the lid face-down on your work surface. Position the socket in the center of the lid and trace a circle around it with your pencil.  Set the socket aside and slice two small slits through the lid with your knife or the tip of one arm of your scissors. Push one piece of wire through the lid from below, then feed the other piece of wire through the other hole.  If you’re having...


Gather the materials. Gather the tools. Sand the wooden pieces. Assemble the frame. Secure the wooden frame in place. Sand the dowels. Form the shed stick.

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Building a simple frame loom requires a variety of wooden materials. You will need:  2 pieces of wood ¾” x 1 ½” x 11” 2 pieces of wood ¾” x 1 ½”  x 16" 8 pieces of dowel 5/16" x 1 ½” 1 piece of wood ¼”  x 2" x 12" (This piece of wood can not bend.) To construct the simple frame loom, you will need to locate a few tools:  Sandpaper Wood glue Electric drill with 5/16” bit Clamp Small mallet or hammer Before constructing the loom, sand off all of the rough edges of the wooden pieces. Run the sandpaper briskly over the edges. Periodically run your hand over the edge to assess the progress. When properly sanded, the edge should feel smooth. Clamp one of the 16” pieces of wood to your workbench. Place the other 16” piece of wood parallel to the clamped piece of wood. Retrieve the two 11” pieces of wood. Lie one 11” piece of wood across the top corners of the the two 16” pieces of wood to form right angles. Lie the other 11” piece of wood across bottom corners of the 16” pieces of wood to form right angles. The edges should be flush. Beginning in the top right corner, drill two holes through both pieces of wood. The holes should be placed diagonally at a 45° angle. Apply glue to the sides of two pieces of dowel. Insert the dowel pieces into the drilled holes with the small mallet or hammer until the dowel is flush with the wooden surface. Wipe away any excess glue. Repeat on the other three corners. When the glue has dried, run a piece of sandpaper over the dowels. Sand down the dowels until they are flush with the wooden surface. Remove any excess dried glue from the wooden frame too. Since the shed stick runs through the weave, it is essential that it does not have any rough edges. A rough edge could cause the thread to snap! Grab the 12” piece of wood and a piece of sandpaper. Round of the ends of the wood as well a the side edges.


Gather the materials. Select the right tree. Cut down the tree. Peel off the bark. Inspect the wood. Cut the wood. Bend the limbs. Create the notches. String the bow. Try out your new bow.

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You can use alternate tools in place of the suggested tools to create a wood bow, but just be sure you are using proper safety precautions. Here is a list of suggestion tools:  Hand axe Machete Draw knife Wood rasp Carpenters pencil Tape measure Straight edge Bow string A hunting bow can be built from just about any tree, but there are certain qualities to look for. Find a tree that is about 4" in diameter, smooth, and straight. Look for the straightest six foot section, and cut it down with a handsaw or chainsaw.  Let the wood, or stave, mature for about six months in a dry place so the wood can dry out. The easiest way to remove bark is to use a draw knife. A draw knife is a woodworking hand tool that works nicely for skinning bark and roughing off corners. Use caution when working with a draw knife, and consider wearing gloves to protect your hands. Look for the cleanest and straightest side of wood that will fit the proper measurements for the bow which should be 68" long. Try to find sturdy areas that do not show any signs of rot or weakness. Wood can be smoothed out, but there isn't anything you can do about wood that has started to break down. Once you find a good area, use a thick carpenter's pencil to mark where you will cut. Use a hatchet and machete to cut the ends. You want to make the limbs about 1/2" thick near the ends, and leave the 4-6" handle section in the middle about 2" thick. To help shape the limbs to the appropriate thickness, use a wood rasp which has small teeth and is meant to shape and smooth out wood. After you have finished shaping the bow, place the bow limbs on the floor and give gentle pressure in the middle with your foot. You want to make sure the limb bends uniformly. Be careful when applying pressure, and go slow. You want to test the flexibility of the bow, but not break it. Check to see if the bow can bend into a semi circle. If the wood refuses to bend with ease, scrape away more wood to weaken the limb. At both ends of the bow limb, you need to cut notches that are...


Gather the materials. Sit in a comfortable position. Secure the stretch of your foot. Take caution during the night.

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To stretch your foot, you will need a few items. You will need a long shoelace or ribbon. You also will need a tube sock you have modified. The tube sock needs a shoe lace or ribbon loop sewn into the toe of the sock and to the top of the sock. You can easily do this with needle and thread. To begin stretching your foot, sit down in a comfortable position. You may want to place your ankle on your opposite knee. Put the sock on your affected foot. Make sure you keep your toes flexed during this so you get the best stretch. However, don't stretch it so far that it feels painful. Gently pull your toes up toward your head. Keep your toes stretched so you feel the extension in your foot. Thread the shoelace or piece of ribbon you have through each loop on the tube sock. You should feel a gentle stretch and shouldn't feel any pain.  Tie the shoelace or ribbon so that your foot remains in the stretched position, your toes pointing toward your face. You should also feel some stretch in your calf. Be careful that you don't overstretch the tendon. Be careful when you get out of bed during the night for any reason. Also use caution when you wake in the morning. Before you get out of bed, untie or loosen the shoelace or ribbon. Re-tie it when you get back into bed. Stretching your foot at night helps to loosen or lengthen the shortened plantar fascia.


Gather the necessaries. Cut your cardboard in the shape of a tomahawk. Glue your pieces together. Apply some papier-mâché. Paint your toy tomahawk. Add finishing touches.

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To make your own tomahawk, or to make this as a craft with your kids, you should gather the supplies you'll need before you begin. For this project you will need:  Feathers and beads (optional) Glue Paint (gray and brown suggested) Pencil (optional) Scissors Scrap paper (brown preferred) Cardboard Twine (optional) You should cut two pieces that are the full outline of a traditional tomahawk, including the ax-head and handle. You might want to consider adding support to the handle to make it more sturdy. You can do this easily by cutting 2 additional separate pieces of the tomahawk handle, which you will use later for support. To give a 3D appearance to the ax-head of your tomahawk, you can add a couple of pieces of cardboard cut only in the shape of the ax-head. You might want these to be slightly smaller than the full size ax-head. This will give contour and make it even more realistic. Your ax-head/handle combined pieces should be glued together first, with your supporting handle-only pieces glued on the outside. The same goes for your ax-head; the slightly smaller ax-head-only pieces should be glued on the outside of the ax-head on the ax-head/handle combined pieces. You should allow your glued together pieces enough time to fully dry before you move on from this stage in the tomahawk making process. To make the adhesive for your papier-mâché, you can dilute some normal all-purpose glue (sometimes called PVA glue) in a small amount of water. Use a paintbrush to apply your glue-water solution to your scrap paper and the surface of your cardboard tomahawk.  For scrap paper, you might use thin brown paper, like the kind used for paper lunch bags or grocery bags. Cover the cardboard of your 'hawk so that it has a uniform appearance. To give a stone-like effect to your ax-head, you might want to crinkle the paper that you paste to it. To make the handle of your 'hawk appear wooden, you should try to glue your papier-mâché to the handle as smoothly as possible. If you are going for the classic appearance, you'll...


Gather the necessary information. Fill out the application. Choose a loan option. Ask questions. Get approved.

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There are a number of documents lenders may require you to provide when applying for a loan.  It's important that you gather these documents ahead of time to ensure your loan request is processed quickly.  Some common requirements are:  Verification of your identity such as a passport, driver's license or state issued ID. Proof of your address such as utility bills or a copy of your lease. Proof of your income such as W-2s, pay stubs or bank statements. Once you have chosen the bank or banks you want to request a loan from, you'll need to fill out their loan application.  Most banks allow you to fill these documents out online, but you may want to visit the bank to fill them out in person in the presence of a loan specialist.  This can reduce the amount of time you need to wait for a decision, as you can answer questions directly and even adjust your request based on information provided by the loan specialist.  You may also be able to call the bank to apply for a loan over the phone by speaking to a loan specialist. Be prepared to offer information from the documents you gathered, including social security number, income, and your home address. When applying for your loan, you will need to indicate the kind of loan you hope to receive.  If you intend to offer collateral, discuss that with the loan official and if they have different options that include incentives or repayment options, make sure you choose the right one for you.  Researching loan options offered by the bank beforehand will help ensure you are prepared to choose the right loan option for you, Some loans may have prepayment penalties established to limit the number of people that repay their loans early to avoid paying the total amount of interest.  Ensure you know all of the details of each option offered by your bank before committing to one. If you aren't sure about something the lender goes over while applying for your loan, stop them and ask.  Committing to a loan is a serious responsibility and you want to make sure you understand...


Gather the necessary information. Report the violation to the SSA.

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If you believe that someone is using a fake social security card or number to work or obtain benefits, you can report that individual to the Office of the Inspector General of the Social Security Administration. Before you make such a report, however, it is necessary to gather certain information so that the SSA can make the most of your report.  You will want to compile a list of the suspect's name, address, telephone numbers, dates of birth, and the social security number they are using. The more information you can provide, the better. It will also be helpful to detail the circumstances of the fraud, including a basic description of what took place along with when and where the violation occurred. The SSA provides an online form you can use to submit a report of a person using a fake social security card or number. You can also reach the SSA by phone, mail, or fax. All of this information is available on the portion of the SSA's website dedicated to reporting fraud.  You have the option of remaining anonymous when reporting a social security violation. Your identity will only be released to relevant officials on a need-to-know basis. However, the SSA warns that remaining anonymous may hamper its ability to conduct a thorough investigation. You will not be updated on the status of your report unless the SSA has need to question you directly.


Gather the necessary items.

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You will need sea salt, one lemon and an old toothbrush. You’ll want to have a few clean, soft towels on hand, along with some rubbing alcohol and a handful of cotton balls. You’ll use these items at the end to sterilize your blade.


Gather the necessary materials. Combine all of the ingredients and stir together. Heat on medium-low. Pour the mixture onto foil or parchment paper. Allow the plastic to dry for at least two days.

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To make this type of bioplastic, you will need cornstarch, distilled water, glycerol, white vinegar, a stove, a saucepan, a silicone spatula, and food coloring (if desired). These items should be readily available at the grocery store or online. Glycerol is also called glycerine, so try searching for that if you’re having trouble finding glycerol. The following amounts of each ingredient are needed to make the bioplastic:  10ml distilled water 0.5-1.5g glycerol 1.5g cornstarch 1ml of white vinegar 1-2 drops food coloring Adult supervision is recommended. Add all of the ingredients to the saucepan and stir to combine with the spatula. Stir until you get rid of most of the lumps in the mixture. At this stage, the mixture will be a milky white color and quite watery. If you add the wrong amounts of ingredients, just dispose of the mixture and start again. Place the saucepan on the stove and set the heat to medium-low. Stir continuously as the mixture heats. Bring it to a gentle boil. As the mixture heats, it will become more translucent and begin to thicken.  Remove the mixture from the heat when it becomes clear and thick. Total heating time will be around 10-15 minutes. Lumps may begin to form if the mixture gets overheated. Add one-two drops of food coloring at this stage, if you would like to color the plastic. Spread the heated mixture onto a piece of foil or parchment paper to let it cool. If you would like to mold the plastic into a shape, it must be done while it is still warm. See the last method for details on molding the plastic. Remove any bubbles that you see by poking them with a toothpick. It will take time for the plastic to dry and harden. As it cools, it will begin to dry out. Depending on the thickness of the plastic, it can take longer for it to dry. If you make one small thick piece it will take longer to dry than a thinner larger piece.  Leave the plastic in a cool, dry place for this process. Check the plastic after two days to see if it has fully hardened.


Gather the necessary materials. Cut the square plywood in half diagonally. Construct the first side support. Make the second side support with the same process. Attach the 12 in (30 cm) pieces of wood between the supports. Drill 1 inch (2.5 cm) holes into the top of the support arms. Screw the baseboard to the trebuchet.

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To build the base, you will need the following tools: hammer, electric drill, 1 inch (2.5 cm) drill bit, 10 nails, 12 wood screws, and a saw. Remember, power tools are dangerous; always use caution and have adult supervision when necessary. The supplies for the actual base include:  2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) wood pieces, 36 inches (91 cm) long 2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm)  wood pieces, 12 inches (30 cm) long 2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) wood pieces, 23 inches (58 cm) long  1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm)plywood that is between 20–24 inches (51–61 cm) square 1 piece of flat wood (can be plywood) that is 10–12 inches (25–30 cm) wide and 36 inches (91 cm)long to serve as baseboard 1 inch (2.5 cm) diameter dowel rod, 15 inches (38 cm) long 2 eye hooks The plywood needs to be cut into triangles. These triangles will serve as supports to stabilize the trebuchet when it is in use. Using a jigsaw or table saw (whichever is available) cut the square from corner to corner through the center. If you don’t have a table saw or jigsaw, many home improvement stores will cut wood for you before you take it home. Measure 13 inches (33 cm) from the left end of one of the 36 in (91 cm) long pieces of wood and make a mark. Place the center of the 23 in (58 cm) long piece of wood perpendicular to the 36 in (91 cm) long piece of wood at the mark that you made.  Lay one of the triangle-shaped pieces on top of these supports so that the base of the triangle is aligned horizontally with the bottom of the 36 in (91 cm) piece of wood. Attach 1 screw to each corner and 2-3 screws along each side of the triangle. Use the same process detailed above, but make it in a mirror image. This will ensure that when you build the base, both supports will face the same direction and the wooden triangles will face out. When both sides are constructed, line them up and make sure they are identical mirror images of each other. Stand the side supports up, making sure the triangle wood pieces face out. Place a 12 in (30 cm) long piece of wood between...


Gather the necessary materials. Drill a hole 10 inches (25 cm) down from the top of the 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) piece of wood. Attach eye hooks to the front of swing arm. Put the nail into the middle of the front end of the swing arm. Attach a counterweight to the back end of the swing arm. Attach the sling pouch to the arm.

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A trebuchet works with a counterweight system. In addition to the materials listed, you will need something heavy to serve as a counterweight. You can use some hand weights, a brick, or a small bucket that you can fill as needed to vary the weight. To build the launching arm of the trebuchet, you will need the following supplies:  Hammer 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) piece of wood, 40 inches (100 cm) long 5 feet (1.5 m) of string 10 in × 6 in (25 cm × 15 cm) piece of cloth to make a pouch 2 eye hooks 1 long thin nail with the head removed This hole needs to be large enough for the dowel rod to fit through and rotate without friction. Measure 10 inches (25 cm) from the top of the 40 in (100 cm) long piece of wood and make a mark. Make the hole at this 10 in (25 cm) mark slightly larger than the diameter of the dowel rod (1 inch (2.5 cm)).  Test the rotation by putting the rod through the 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) piece of wood. If the 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) piece of wood rotates without resistance, the hole is large enough. The end closest to the hold is the back end of the swing arm. One eye hook will serve as the attachment point for the string and pouch while the other eye hook will be part of the trigger. Screw the first eye hook into the very end of the swing arm, on the bottom. Screw the second eye hook into the bottom of the swing arm about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the end. Hammer the first eye hook into the end until just the loop of the hook is sticking out. Make sure that the head of the nail has been completely removed. When the trebuchet launches, the string on the nail needs to be able to fly off the nail and it won’t be able to do that if it gets caught on the head. The head can be removed with a Dremel tool.  Hammer the nail into the flat end of the swing arm, approximately in the middle. Bend it slightly forward so that the string will stay on until the trebuchet is launched. The angle of the bend will need to be optimized using trial and error launches. The easiest counterweight to...


Gather the necessary materials. Fill the cup 1/4 of the way up with purified water.

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For this method, you will need salt, purified water, a small clean glass or plastic cup, a large bowl, and ice. If you have a thermometer it would also be useful, but not necessary.   Make sure your glass is very clean; any impurities can cause the water to crystallize into ice before supercooling occurs. Impurities can also lower the freezing point of water.  The bowl must be large enough to contain the glass and enough ice to submerge the glass. The amount of water added doesn’t have to be exact. Add enough that you will be able to measure the temperature, but not so much that you won’t be able to surround the cup with ice above the water line. Place the cup in the center of the bowl.


Gather the necessary materials. Measure and cut out squares from the cardboard. Make one side of the squares black. Tape the edges of four squares together. Form the secret compartment. Put the box together. Decorate the outside of the box. Prepare the box for your trick. Perform the trick.

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To make a disappearing handkerchief box, you’ll need to gather several household items:  Thin cardboard or posterboard Tape Scissors Handkerchief Paint, wrapping paper, and other decorative items Glue Black construction paper or black paint Use a ruler and pencil to mark out your squares, and cut them out using a pair of sharp, sturdy scissors. You can make your magic box any size that you want, but you’ll need six squares of the same size no matter what their size. For a manageable small box, measure 4”-6” squares. You can do this by gluing the cardboard squares onto the black construction paper or by painting one side with black paint. For one square, glue black paper to or paint both sides.  Paper may be preferable, as it is the same color and texture throughout. You also don't have to worry about smearing the paint. If you glue your squares to construction paper, allow the glue to dry. Then cut them out and trim the excess paper from the edges. Place four squares on your work surface with the black side down. Tape their edges together, then bring the last two sides together to form a box. Place a strip of tape on the outside of that edge too. Don’t use the double-sided square for this step. Place the remaining single-sided cardboard square on your work surface with the black side face up. Place one edge of the double-sided square about ⅓ of the way from one edge of the square. Secure with tape on that side to form a hinge. Slide the four-sided box you made in Step 4 over the secret compartment piece. The double-sided square should create a flap inside the box and should be able to move freely back and forth. Secure at the bottom with tape. If the flap isn’t able to move, trim the edges just a little bit. Don’t trim too much, or you’ll ruin the illusion. Use paint, wrapping paper, and/or stickers to decorate the outside of the box. Make it as colorful as you can; the vivid colors and patterns will help distract your audience as you perform the trick. Push the flap forward to open the secret compartment,...


Gather the necessary materials. Pour the acidic solution into a bowl. Write on the paper. Let the ink dry fully. Apply heat to the paper. Reveal the writing with salt.

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To make an invisible ink pen, you will need Q-tips or a paintbrush, an acidic solution, a shallow dish or bowl, white paper, and a source of heat. The Q-tips or paintbrush will be used to do the actual writing. Choose the item that works the best for you.  Any of the following can serve as the acidic solution for the invisible ink: milk, vinegar, or lemon juice. The heat source can be a candle, a hair dryer, an iron, or even a lamp. All of these items should easily be found around the home or purchased at the grocery store. If you are using a lemon, squeeze the lemon until the juice comes out into the bowl. If you are using milk or vinegar, pour about half of a cup into the bowl. The exact amount isn’t important. You will only need enough to write your message.  Dispose of the liquid down the drain when you are finished. Do not use the liquid for anything else once you have used it for invisible ink. A Q-tip is a very easy device to use as a pen. Dip it in the solution until it is damp. Write your secret message, dipping the Q-tip into the ink every few letters. This ensures that you have used enough ink for the message to show up later. It may be difficult to keep track of what you are writing because the writing will be invisible as well. If you write at a well-lit table you will be better able to see what you are writing while the ink is still wet. Before revealing your hidden message, you need to let the ink dry completely. It shouldn’t take more than 30 minutes for the ink to finish drying. Set the first paper aside and write more messages while you wait for the first one to dry. Once you have obtained a heating device, apply it to the paper where something has been written with the invisible ink. As the paper heats up, the areas that have invisible ink on them will begin to turn brown. When the message starts to appear, remove the heat source from the paper. If the message is unclear, keep the heat on for a few more seconds until it comes clear.  Be extremely cautious not to light the paper on fire if...


Gather the necessary resources. Open your inventory. Craft a crafting table. Place your crafting table on the ground. Open your crafting table. Craft a book. Craft an enchanting table. Place the enchanting table on the ground. Open the enchanting table. Place the book in the table. Select an enchantment. Select your book.

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To create an enchanted book, you will need the materials for the following items:   Crafting table - Four wooden crates, which come from one wood block.  Book - Three pieces of paper, which come from three pieces of sugar cane, and one piece of leather.  Enchanting table - Two diamonds, four blocks of obsidian, and a book. You should see your crafting items here. In Minecraft PE, you'll tap the ... icon to open your inventory. To do this, you'll use the four wood crates, which come from placing one block of wood in the crafting grid.  On the PC version of Minecraft, you'll click and drag each of your four wooden blocks into the two-by-two crafting grid at the top of your inventory. On Minecraft PE, you'll tap the tab above your inventory tab on the left side of the screen and then tap the crafting table icon, which resembles a box with lines on it. On console, you'll press the "Crafting" button (X or circle), then select a wooden crate. You'll need to select it from the hotbar at the bottom of the screen to do so. If your hotbar is full, you must first open your inventory and replace an item in the hotbar with your crafting table. It will open to a three-by-three grid, along with the contents of your inventory (PE and PC versions only). To do so, you'll place three pieces of sugar cane across the middle row of the crafting grid, select the resulting paper, and then place the three pieces of paper in an L-shape in the top-left corner of the crafting grid. Your leather should go in the top-middle box, thus filling in the "L" shape.  In Minecraft PE, just tap the book icon on the left side of the screen, then click the 1 x [book] button on the right side. On the console version of Minecraft, select the book icon from the paper section of the "Decorations" tab. The enchanting table requires a book in the top-middle box of the crafting grid, a diamond in both the middle-left and middle-right boxes, and obsidian in the center box as well as the entire bottom row. You should see the enchanting table icon appear on...


Gather the necessary supplies and ingredients. Keep an eye on it. Pour the sugaring paste into a storage container or a glass mason jar while it’s still liquid.

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You can use any kind of sugar. The guar gum is optional. It just helps the paste to last longer. You don’t need to squeeze your own lemon or lime juice either. Pre-packaged juice works just as well. Once it starts to heat up, the temperature rises quickly so watch it carefully. Take the pan off the burner when the thermometer reaches 240 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature may vary slightly depending on your climate. This temperature is based on a dry, mild climate. However, you don’t want it to be so hot that it cracks or melts it. Allow it to cool to room temperature for a few hours. Don’t try to use it hot.


Gather the necessary waxing supplies. Wax your upper lip Wax your eyebrows

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When waxing the skin on your face, it's very important to use a wax kit that's specifically designed for removing facial hair.  This is because the skin on your face is extra sensitive and can easily become irritated if the wrong type of wax is used. Men should use a facial wax designed for coarser hair, as their facial hair is thicker and more difficult to remove than women's. . Waxing your upper lip is a relatively easy process, similar to other types of waxing. It is one of the most common areas for women (and men) to wax at home.  If you like, you can use wax strips that will remove upper lip hair without the need for hot wax -- these are relatively cheap, but not as effective as they don't grab onto the hair as well. Just follow the directions on the packaging to use. If you're opting to use regular wax, use a cream rather than a honey wax, as these are less sticky and easier to control than honey waxes. Wash your upper lip area (and remove any traces of make-up) and dry thoroughly. Apply the warm wax onto one half of your upper lip, tracing carefully along the lip line. Pressing your tongue against your upper lip can help to extend the skin and make the job easier. Make sure to apply the wax in the direction of the hair growth. Place the cloth strip over the wax, stroking it on in the direction of the hair growth. Wait ten seconds for the wax to cool slightly, then stick your upper lip between your teeth to pull the skin taut (this is important). Grasp the edge of the strip and quickly pull off the wax strip. Remember to pull your hand across rather than straight up. Press your hand against the waxed area for a few seconds to help with the pain. Repeat the process on the other side of your lip, then use a tweezers to clean up any stray hairs. . Waxing your own eyebrows at home is a little trick and usually not recommended for beginners -- this is due to the fact that you are working with hot in the sensitive eye area. In addition, the results are potentially disastrous if you take off half an eyebrow!...


Gather the needed reagents. Mix acids to form aqua regia. Dissolve the sample. Filter the sample. Remove nitric acid. Precipitate the gold. Collect and weigh the gold.

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You will need hydrochloric and nitric acids. You will also need a filter to filter out contaminants. Finally you are going to need an oxidizing reagent. Wear goggles and gloves when working with this method. Aqua regia is Latin for “royal water.” This solution is used to remove gold from a scrap of metal or an ore. To make it, mix three parts hydrochloric acid and one part nitric acid.  For example, 400 mL of aqua regia will contain 300 mL of hydrochloric acid and 100 mL of nitric acid. Use gloves, goggles, and caution when making and using aqua regia. It is highly corrosive and toxic. Aqua regia cannot be stored well. A new batch must be made for each use. Submerge the metal sample in aqua regia. Stir and swirl to dissolve the sample. Non-metal minerals and silver in form of silver chloride may not dissolve. These minerals will form a sludge. Pour the sludge solution through a filter. The sludge will remain on one side of the filter and the aqua regia solution containing the metals will pass through to the other side. The solution is usually greenish in color and will contain many dissolved metals such as gold, and copper. The nitric acid must be removed before the gold can be taken out of solution. You can do this by boiling the solution. Do not breath in the fumes. Do this outside or under a fume hood. The gold must be forced out of solution. To do this, you must use a reducing agent. Oxalic acid is commonly used for this. After precipitating, the gold will a solid that sinks to the bottom of the solution. Strain the gold from the aqua regia solution and dry it. Weigh the gold on a scale. The weight of the gold can be compared to the weight of the original sample to determine the ratio of gold to other metals and minerals.


Gather the spent coffee grounds and coffee filter. Place the coffee grounds onto your compost pile. Adjust the level of carbon-rich material in your compost pile.

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If you have an existing compost pile, worm bin, or municipal compost service, adding your spent coffee grounds is easy.  Begin by gathering up the spent grounds as well as the paper filter if you use one. Paper coffee filters are also compostable. You may want to keep a kitchen compost bucket handy for holding your coffee grounds until you take them to your compost pile. This will keep you from having to make trips to the compost pile each time you brew coffee. Coffee grounds and filters are fully organic and can be placed directly onto a compost pile or buried in a worm bin. Coffee grounds are rich in nitrogen, which makes them a "green" composting material. Green materials must be balanced with carbon-rich or "brown" materials. If you begin adding a lot of coffee grounds to your compost pile, make sure to add more paper, dried leaves, or other carbon-rich materials to adjust the nutrient balance.


Gather the supplies needed. Fill the pantyhose or socks. Tie off the pantyhose or socks. Play with your flour bomb.

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You will need a few supplies to create a flour bomb out of panty hose or socks. Make sure you have all of the supplies with you before you begin. You may already have all of the supplies in your home!  Pantyhose or long socks. Flour A spoon If you are using pantyhose, you need to cut one leg of the pantyhose off where it connects at the top before beginning. Open up the pantyhose or socks wide and use the spoon to fill it with spoonfuls of flour. Keep filling until the pantyhose or socks have enough flour to completely fill the toe part. You should have about ½ to 1 cup in the sock or pantyhose. Tie a knot in the pantyhose or sock close to where the flour is. The knot should be a couple of inches above where the flour is. This should create a tied off pocket of flour with a long handle of pantyhose or sock to hold onto. Hold the long end of the flour bomb and throw the bomb up in the air. Watch the flour splat out of the pantyhose or sock as it hits the ground. You can also play flour bomb wars by getting friends together and making several flour bombs to use to gently hit each other with. The flour will leave a fun white spot where it hit you!


Gather the supplies. Clean your hands. Wash the genital area. Insert the catheter. Be prepared for the urine release. Remove the catheter and clean up. Clean a reusable catheter.

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Before you start, you need to make sure you have all your supplies together. You need your catheter, open and ready to be used, a cleaning wipe, lubricant, and a container for the urine, if needed. After opening the catheter, make sure to only touch the end of the catheter that will be outside your body. Wash your hands with soap and water, and then dry them thoroughly. Washing your hands helps to prevent contamination and reduce the risk of infection. Place one leg on the toilet and twist just a bit to one side. Using one hand, spread the labia and locate the urethral opening. Using your other hand, wash the entire genital area three times, going from front to back to avoid introducing bacteria from feces into the genital area. Rinse well and dry with a cotton towel.  Use a fresh towelette or baby wipe every time you wipe. Alternatively, you can use cotton balls with mild soap and water. You can use a mirror to help you see what you're doing. Apply a small amount of the lubricant to the tip and the first 2 inches of the catheter. Take a deep breath, and with one hand separating the labia, use the other hand to insert the catheter gently into the urethra using firm, gentle pressure. Don't push hard, and don't force it. As you insert it, exhale slowly. Twist the catheter slightly one way and the other to help it through the urethra.  Insertion can be quite uncomfortable, so breathing can help make it more comfortable. If the catheter is not sliding in, don't worry. Try to relax, breathe deeply, and try again. If the catheter comes pre-lubricated, you don't have to apply more lubricant. The tubing cannot be pushed through the bladder, so don't worry about that. Once the catheter enters the bladder, the release of urine will be immediate. Have the external end of the catheter in the toilet or have a drainage bag ready. If you use the the drainage bag, keep it as low as possible so gravity can do its part. Remove the catheter with a gentle and even pull. Dispose of all the used supplies. Wash and dry the entire...


Gather the supplies. Combine the ingredients. Let the solution sit. Swirl the mixture before use.

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For this bubble mixture, you will need three ingredients: distilled water, liquid dish soap, and glycerin. Glycerin is a natural moisturizer. When added to a bubble solution, it prevents the bubbles from drying out. This makes the film harder to pop. You can purchase glycerin from your local pharmacy. Measure and pour 1 cup distilled water into a clean container. Stir in 2 tablespoons liquid dish soap. Finally, mix in 1 tablespoon Glycerin to the soap-water mixture. Bubble solution gets better with time. Before using, allow the solution to sit in a sealed container for at least one hour. For optimal use, let the solution rest for 24 hours. When you’re ready to use the bubble solution, gently swirl the mixture. You can use your hand or a spoon. Do not shake the mixture—this will disrupt the suds.


Gather the supplies. Measure out the powders. Heat the mixture. Transfer to a casing. Allow the mixture to harden. Layer the caps. Prepare the black powder. Wrap the tape.

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This filling can also be used as a standard smoke bomb by attaching a fuse. You’ll need a digital scale, KNO3 (potassium nitrate), powdered sugar, gloves, popsicle sticks or other stirring sticks, and a durable beaker.  You’ll also need something to mold the liquified powders like a cardboard tube from a roll of paper towels. KNO3 can be found at larger hardware stores. If you’re having trouble you could also look at hobbyist shops or online.  The best gloves for this type of project would be rubber gloves. Wear protective eyewear and cover up your skin. These precautions are most important when you heat up the chemicals. Wear thick rubber gloves as well. You’ll also need the following supplies for the casing: paper toy caps, an exacto knife, tape, and black powder. Paper caps are the ammo used for toy cap guns. Black powder or gunpowder can be found at most sporting stores that sell guns. If you’re having trouble, look online. Use 70 grams (2.5 oz) of KNO3 and 30 grams of sugar. After weighing the powders dump them into the beaker and mix well. Use a hotplate on medium low heat. Wear your gloves and stir frequently to avoid the compound from burning. Continue heating and stirring until the mixture liquefies and turns a tan brown color. Beware of burning! If you are not careful the mixture could burn and go up in smoke. Transfer the liquefied mixture into the casing of your choice. Use something small so you can use the smoke bombs on the fly. The best type of case is something you can easily remove once the mixture has set, like a quarter of a cardboard toilet roll. You could also use a film cartridge, like the type you send into a photo center. Give the mixture a few hours to settle. If you are feeling extra cautious, place the container into the fridge or freezer. This mix should take a little over an hour to cool in your freezer. Place a small piece of tape on the edge of the cap and attach it to the top of the KNO3 blob. Then wrap the outside of the hardened mixture with the caps. Seal the caps together...


Gather the tools and materials needed to make the kite’s string and tail. Make the kite’s brindle. Attach the flying string to the brindle above the point where the dowels cross. Use the ribbon to create the kite’s tail. Fly your kite.

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Having all of your materials in one place before you begin will save you time as you are finishing up this project.  Pen String Ribbon Tape A kite’s brindle is a string that extends the length of the frame and has the flying string attached to it.  Use a pen to poke a small hole in the top and bottom tips that you have reinforced with tape. Cut a 2 foot piece of string Tie the string in a knot around the top hole. Tie the other end to the bottom hole. Hold the kite up by the brindle. Find the point along the brindle where the kite hangs parallel to the ground; this is the spot where you want to attach the flying string. Tie the end of the string in a knot around the brindle. You will hold the rest of the string when you are flying the kite. Attach the ribbon by tying it to the hole at the bottom tip, or by taping it to the bottom.  Your tail should be about 6-20 feet long depending on the weight of your kite. Cut small pieces of ribbon to tie bows around the tail. Experiment with different lengths of tails for maximum stability. Take your kite out on a windy day to watch it fly! Bring tape with you to help fix any damages that might occur while flying or landing.


Gather the tools you will need to build your stage. Purchase quality lumber. Cut the 2x4s to the proper length with a circular saw. Cut additional sections of wood to build more platforms.

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Take out the tools that you will use in the construction of your stage. If you don’t own any of the tools you need, ask friends to borrow tools, or you can rent tools from many home improvement stores.  Drill Circular Saw Pliers Socket ratchet wrench Screwdriver Measuring Tape Pencil To construct your stage you will need to buy wood that will provide the structure of your stage. Look for lumber that is straight and free from knots. Pressure treated lumber is best if your stage will be resting on concrete or placed outside. For each individual platform you will need:  6 – 8 foot 2x4’s 1 – 8’x4’ sheet of 3/4 inch plywood 12 – 3.5 inch hex bolts 24 washers 12 nuts 26 - 1 ½” wood screws 24 - 3” wood screws You will need to cut several different lengths of 2x4s to form the supports of your stage platform. To avoid mistakes and wasted wood, remember this rule of carpentry: measure twice, cut once.  From two 8’ pieces of 2x4, cut 3 lengths of wood to 3’9” (45 inches). You will have 4’3” of wood left from one 2x4, cut it into two 2’ pieces. (Discard the remaining 3”.) Use a new 8’ 2x4 to cut four 2’ lengths of wood. From the fourth 2x4 cut six 1’ pieces at a 45º angle on each side. Cut the angles on either end toward each other. The long side of the board will measure 12” while the short side accounting for the angles will be approximately 5 ½”. The angled boards will be used to brace the legs. The other two 2x4s will be used to make the frame. Don't cut these. If you need to build a stage that is bigger than 4’x8’ you will need to create multiple platforms. Cut all of your wood at once to save time in construction.


Gather the top edge of the top tier to your waist measurement. Cut a piece of twill tape 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10.2 cm) longer than your waist size. Hem the ends of the twill tape by 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm). Fold and pin the twill tape over the top edge of your petticoat. Sew the twill tape down. Add some hooks and eyes.

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Use the same process as you did for the bottom and middle tiers. Sew 2 rows of stitching, then gather them until the top edges matches your waist measurement. Cut the excess thread off, knot it, then trim it close to the fabric. Choose a 1 to 2-inch (2.5 to 5.1-cm) wide twill tape that matches the color of your petticoat. Cut it 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10.2 cm) longer than your waist measurement. You need this extra length so that you will have room for the overlap and hook closures. For a nicer finish, use satin ribbon instead. Fold the narrow ends of your twill tape by 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm). Press them with an iron, then sew them down using a straight stitch. Make sure that the left end of the twill tape aligns with the left edge of the petticoat. The right edge of the twill needs to extend past the right edge of the petticoat. Start at the left end of the twill tape and finish on the right. You are sewing past the edge of the petticoat because you want to sew the rest of the twill tape waistband down.  Sew as close to the edge of the twill tape as possible. Remember to backstitch and to take out the pins. Add a hook to the underside of the left end of the waistband. Add eyes to the top of the right side of the waistband. The first eye should align with the right edge of the petticoat. If you have enough room, you can add more hooks along the excess, overhanging waistband.  Keep the additional eyes 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. You only need 1 hook, just like on a bra. Sew the hooks and eyes on by hand through the loops at the ends. Alternatively, you can use snaps instead.


Gather the top layer. Leave the rest of your hair down. Finish with some colorful clips or a headband.

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Pull the top layer back and away from your face as if you were making a ponytail. Secure it with a hair tie. You can curl or straighten the rest of your hair, or just let it stay in its natural state.


Gather two large, heavy objects. Place the warped record between the objects. Prepare to wait for a few days.

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These objects need to be wide enough to cover the entirety of the record. They need to be heavy enough to put pressure on the record without warping it further. Two large books are best for this purpose. Put the first object on a flat surface, such as a table. Put the record atop the object, followed by your second heavy object. Make sure the objects cover as much of the record as possible; if any part sticks out, they may be warped. Before you place the record between the two objects, ensure it is clean. The last thing you want is a grain of sand grinding a scratch into your record. This is perhaps the longest method you’ll use. You’re relying on constant, gradual pressure to un-warp your record, and this will take some time. Prepare to wait for days, maybe even weeks for the record to un-warp.