Collect seeds in early February. Cut the seeds out of the pear. Soak the seeds in a bowl of water overnight. Fill a plastic bag with moist peat moss. Push the seeds 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) into the moss. Keep the bag in the crisper drawer of the fridge for up to 3 months. Remove the bag when outdoor temperatures are above 40 °F (4 °C). Soak the seeds in a bowl of warm water for 2 days.

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Fruit seeds germinate best in the late winter or early spring. By collecting the seeds you want to plant in February, you give yourself enough time to stratify them. Stratification aids in germination and will produce more seedlings. Store-bought pears will work fine. Using a paring knife, cut a pear in half. Cut the halves into quarters so you can easily access the seeds in the core. Dig out the seeds with a spoon or with your finger. You should find about 8 seeds inside.  Each pear is unique due to cross-pollination. If you want to plant more trees in the future that will bear the same fruit, you can store half of the seeds in a plastic bag in your fridge for 2 years. You can use pears straight from a pear tree too. Just make sure to harvest them for seeds in the summer when they are ripe. Pear seeds should also be available for purchase at your local nursery or garden shop. If any seeds float to the top, get rid of them. If they sink to the bottom, they are good to grow. In the morning, remove the seeds. Mix 10 parts water to one part bleach. Soak the seeds in the bleach mixture for 10 minutes before rinsing thoroughly. Peat moss retains water and moisture and can be purchased at any garden store. Fill a resealable plastic sandwich bag with the moss and mix in water. The moss should be damp, but not waterlogged. Moist potting soil will also work here, but may need to be watered more often than the moss. Bury at least 4 of the pear seeds in the moss before sealing the bag. The more seeds you place in the moss, the more chance you have at a successful germination. Store the bag in the refrigerator for 60-90 days. This gives the seeds time to chill and start the germination process. The peat moss should hold the moisture through this period, but you may have to check on it every 2 weeks. If the peat moss has dried, use a spray bottle to moisten it again. After 3 months pass, you can remove the seeds from the fridge. If there is no risk of frost or the temperature does not drop below 40 °F (4 °C), you can...


Collect smoothie necessaries. Insert your ingredients into the blender. Blend the mixture Preserve extra smoothie in the refrigerator. Finished.

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This version of the peanut butter smoothie is a little less healthy, but it makes a great treat or dessert and still has plenty of protein. Unplug the blender, if necessary, then add your ingredients to it. This will prevent you from accidentally starting the blender while adding things to it, which could send food flying. Once you're finished adding ingredients, snap the lid into place firmly and plug in the blender. Packing ingredients too tightly in your blender can sometimes prevent the blades from turning. Avoid over packing your blender. until it is smooth. While your blender may have other settings, the "Blend" setting will be sufficient for your smoothie. Press and hold the button for short intervals until the mixture is smooth and no chunks of ingredients remain. Pour the smoothie into a cup and enjoy. Any extra smoothie left over can be stored in an airtight container and refrigerated. Try to leave as little air in the container with your smoothie as possible. Air will cause nutrients in your smoothie to break down. If properly stored and refrigerated, your leftover smoothie should last from 12 hours to a day.


Collect some clear glass ornaments. Remove the tops and pour in a little floor wax. Grab a selection of different colored glitters. Replace the top. Decorate the outside.

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They can be any size you like, just make sure that they have easily removable tops. Gently remove the tops from the glass ornaments (you don't want to damage them) and pour a small amount of floor wax or floor finish into the glass ball.  This may sound strange, but this is what allows the glitter to stick to the inside of the ball. Just make sure the product you use is acrylic based and clear drying. Gently swirl the product around the inside of the ornament, making sure the entire inside surface is coated in floor wax. Once you're done, you can pour the floor wax back into the bottle. Waste not, want not! Pour a substantial amount of your chosen glitter into the glass ornament and swirl it around until the glitter completely covers the interior of the ornament. Shake any excess back into the container of glitter.  You can choose any colors you like --gold, silver, red, blue, green, purple -- whichever ones go with the color scheme for your tree. If you want to be really wild, you could even try mixing a few different colors for a real disco ball effect. Once the glitter has dried, you can replace the top of the ornament. Use a little to secure it in place if it feels in any way loose. If  you like, you can leave the glitter ball ornaments as they are. Alternatively, you can decorate the outsides using snowflake- or star-shaped scrapbook stickers and some diamante sequins.


Collect some large catering-sized cans. File the edges of the can to make them safe. Add drainage holes. Add some material to the bottom of the can to help it drain. Plant your cans.

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Large cans used by restaurants can make great planters. However, be sure to clean the can thoroughly to remove any traces of oil or food products. You can file the edges of the cans down, or you can pinch the metal at the edge of the can so that it becomes flat; use metal pliers to do this. You can also put silicon sealant along the sharp edges. Most plants do not like soggy roots, so it is important that your can planters have some drainage holes. To make them:  Use an electric drill, or a hammer and sharp nail. If you use a hammer and nail, turn the can upside down so that the sharp sides of the holes you make face inward. Consider painting your can. If you do not know how to do that, see the next section. In addition to making drainage holes, you should also lay some gravel at the bottom of the can before you put the soil in. The grave will help to improve the can’s drainage. Fill the can with soil and pick out plants to fill your can planter with. The plants you choose are up to you; just keep in mind that you should pick out a soil that the plants will do well in. If your plants like acidic soil, make sure that the soil you buy is acidic.


Collect the appropriate crabbing equipment. Get the right bait. Be aware of restrictions in your area. Pick the right place. Leave the pot out overnight. Remove the crabs from the pot.

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Crabbers who use a crab pot tend to have a dip net (or scrap net) for scooping errant crabs, thick crabbing gloves, a crab pot, a culling stick (to help remove the crabs from the net), and a container for storing the caught crabs.  The crab pot is a large square trap that is made out of wire (typically some sort of chicken wire). There are entrances (called "throats") where the crabs enter the trap to get the bait, which is constructed so they can't access it. The crabs then get trapped in the pot and you draw the pot back up to the surface with your new bounty. Depending on the area you're in you 'll have to figure whether you need a lightweight pot or a heavier one. For example: in the Puget Sound area, most areas support lightweight crab pots just fine, but a few areas, because of tidal currents and strong wave action, require heavier pots. If you're sport fishing, you typically don't want to use the commercial crab pots which are typically 75-150 lbs. (the pots sportsmen use tend to be 10 to 20 lbs. The culling stick helps to remove the crabs from the net or pot. You can make one yourself by cutting a 5 inch (12.7 cm) notch in a piece of wood. For the storage container, it is good to use a wooden bushel basket, but you can also use a cooler to store them. Mostly you just want to make sure that you keep the crabs alive until it is time to eat them and storing them in the appropriate container with ice. Leave the ice in the bag in the container and put the crabs on top of it. This will make them easier to handle when the time comes to cook them. There are tons of different kinds of bait that professional and sport crabbers use. You'll have to experiment to see what works best for you, but chicken necks are a popular one, because they are scrap meat and crabs do seem to love them.  You can use frozen fish, because it typically decomposes faster than fresh fish, which better attracts crabs. While crabs will eat basically any uncooked meat, you could also try some of the types commercial crabbers swear by: eel...


Collect the mushrooms before they develop a wavy edge. Twist the mushrooms off of their base. Spray the bag with water twice a day to get more flushes of mushrooms. Leave the stems on the mushrooms, if you'd like.

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The mushrooms should only take 1 to 2 weeks to fully grow, but they will develop a wavy edge around their cap when they are starting to go past their prime. They can still be eaten, but for best results, pick full-sized mushrooms just as they finish growing. Pin mushrooms are part of the first flush of growth and will become full size within 3 to 4 days. Avoid pulling the mushroom straight off since this could damage the mycelia underneath. A gentle twist and pull should be all it takes to remove the mushrooms. As an alternative, you can cut the base of the mushrooms with a pair of sanitized scissors. After 10 to 15 days, you may see another growth of mushrooms if you keep the bag moist and in a light place. They will tend to be just as large, if not larger, than the first mushrooms you collected. Mushrooms can return for multiple flushes every 2 or 3 weeks, but they will grow smaller each time. Unlike with other mushroom varieties, you can eat the stems of king oyster mushrooms. Leave them on for an easy, delicious meal.   Clean your mushrooms before adding them to any dish. King oyster mushrooms can be eaten raw or cooked.


Collect the necessary materials to begin. Sand the furniture. Wipe the furniture with a dry tack cloth. Mix the whitewash. Paint the whitewash on the furniture. Create a finish.

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You can easily get the materials needed to create a whitewash look for furniture from your local home improvement store.  White latex paint Sandpaper, sanding block, or orbital sander Water Water based polyurethane, if you want a sealant. A cloth A bucket or container Paintbrush Whitewash looks best on raw wood so you need to use sandpaper, a sanding block, or an orbital sander to sand down the furniture. This will remove any finish already on the furniture for the whitewash paint to create the look you’re wanting. You need to remove all of the sawdust from sanding before painting the whitewash on the furniture to ensure a smooth finish. Use a dry tack cloth to wipe down the furniture and remove any dust on it. Add one part paint to one part water in a bucket or container, and mix well. This will thin down the latex paint making it look more like traditional whitewash when you paint it on the furniture by letting the natural wood grain show through the paint. Use a paintbrush to paint the whitewash onto the furniture using long brush strokes that follow the wood grain. Apply thin coats for the best results.  Work in small sections because whitewash dries quickly. Allow the paint to dry completely, and then add more coats until you reach your desired look. If desired, after the paint dries. you can paint a water-based polyurethane on the furniture to create a sealant and a finish. This is optional, but may make the whitewash look last longer. Choose between a matte or satin finish.


Collect the resources necessary to make a dispenser. Craft wood planks. Open the crafting table. Craft a bundle of sticks. Craft a bow. Place the bow in the middle of the crafting grid. Add the cobblestone. Place the redstone in the bottom-center box.

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If you have none of the materials needed to create a dispenser, you'll need to gather the following objects:   One redstone ore - Mine one redstone block. Redstone occurs at a depth of 16 blocks down. You will need an iron pickaxe (or higher) to mine redstone ore.  Seven cobblestone blocks - Mine seven pieces of grey rock. You must use a pickaxe to do so, though you can use a wooden pickaxe.  Three pieces of string - Kill three spiders. It's best to do so during the daytime since spiders become more aggressive at night.  One block of wood - Chop one block of wood on any tree in the game. If you don't have a crafting table, chop an extra block. You'll also need a crafting table in order to create a dispenser. To do so, press E to open your inventory and click and drag one wood block into anywhere in the "Crafting" section. This will create four wooden planks, which you can click and drag into your inventory. To do so, right-click the table while facing it. If you don't have a crafting table, you can create one by pressing E and using four wood planks to create a crafting table. To do so, place one plank in the bottom-center square of the crafting table's interface, then place another wooden plank on top of it (in the center square). Doing this will create a bundle of four sticks which you can drag into your inventory. Making a bow requires three sticks and three pieces of string. You'll need to arrange them in the crafting table's three-by-three grid in the following way:   Sticks - One in the bottom row (middle column), one in the top row (middle column), and one in the middle row (left column).  String - One in each row of the right-hand column. Once your bow is complete, click the bow icon to the right of the crafting grid to place it in your inventory. To do so, click and drag it from your inventory in the center square. This is the first step in actually creating the dispenser. To do so, you'll place a block of cobblestone in each row of the left and right columns as well as one block in the top-center...


Collect the stalks with a sickle as soon as seeds start to develop. Leave the stalks in the field for 5 weeks. Dry the stalks in a cool, dry area until they have a moisture level of 15%. Use a decorator to separate the fibers.

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Cut the stalk as close to the ground as you can to get the most fibers. If you have a small crop, use a handheld sickle in a back and forth motion to slice the stalks. For larger crops, consider buying or renting a sickle-bar attachment for a tractor. Sickles are curved blades that can be purchased at gardening or farm care stores. Pile the stalks on top of one another so the outer shell can rot slightly. During this time, microbes and moisture will work to separate the bonds that hold the stems together. This process can take up to 5 weeks.  Letting the stalks rot is known as “retting.” Retting will not occur below 41 °F (5 °C) or above 104 °F (40 °C). Stand the stalks up on end and separate them so they can completely dry out. Use a moisture meter to figure out how much water the stems are still retaining. Once the stems are below 15% moisture, the fibers can be harvested. Moisture meters can be purchased online or from your local gardening stores. A decorticator is a machine with 2 rollers that break off the exterior pieces of the hemp stalk. After turning the machine on, feed 1-2 stalks of hemp at a time through the rollers. The fibers will come out on the other side of the machine where you can then collect them. Ask your local farm machinery store if they have dedicators you can purchase or rent.


Collect the tools of the trade. Charge your magic tools. Cleanse the area. Cast the circle Casting the spell. Close the ritual safely.

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To get started casting spells and practicing witchcraft, it's a good idea to get the basic tools. No, broomsticks and pointy hats are not necessary. Each witch will require different tools for performing particular spells, but the basics are more or less universal, though it should be stated that none of these items are required in order for you to be a witch.   Select a wand. Wands are often selected for their personal connection to the witch. It's a simple matter of finding and charging a stick, but it's also much more than that. Spend a lot of time wandering the woods to find a short stick that works for you, that you feel some connection with. You'll know it when you find it. Don't feel like you aren't a "real" witch, though, if you don't use a wand or any other tool that another witch uses. Your practice is yours alone and no one else can tell you what works for you. Mortar and pestles are important objects for spell casting. Used to mix herbs and other ingredients into a heady potion, a mortar and pestle are available at any housewares store, and in most kitchens. Herbs. Witch hazel, mugwort, sage, lavender, and many other herbs are commonly used in witchcraft. Scott Cunningham's Encyclopedia of Magical Herbs is an essential guide for the novice witch. You can learn about the powers and the uses of many different common herbs and how to use them. Mineral spirit and salt. Used in cleansing and keeping your spell castings safe, mineral spirits and salts are common barriers against the world of the spirits. You can help to protect yourself by charging your tools with all-natural mineral spirits and circling yourself in salt. Wands, crystals, and other implements involved in heavy psychic incantations need to be cleansed thoroughly before and after spell castings. A good witch is in tune with her tools and keeps them charged and free of negative psychic energy. Use the traditions and techniques of your practice to charge and cleanse your tools. Different traditions will offer different techniques for...


Collect vintage computers from auction websites. Review classified ad websites for vintage computers. Perform an Internet search for vintage computers.

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Websites such as eBay will feature vintage computers for sale by small businesses and individuals from around the world. Review the feedback ratings of sellers before purchasing their vintage computers. This may prevent you from having to deal with unreliable or dishonest sellers that will not honor the sale or allow product returns. Websites such as eBay Classifieds or Craigslist may feature vintage computers for sale by sellers in your local area. There are a variety of web stores, businesses, and organizations that sell vintage computers you can collect.  Enter keyword search terms such as "vintage computers for sale," then review the search results that appear to locate websites selling vintage computers. Review the terms and conditions on each website before finalizing your vintage computer purchase. Some websites may sell the computers "as is" and may not honor a return or refund if you are dissatisfied.


Collect wound and burn care. Gather medical essentials. Include tools. Take a variety of sprays and creams. Pack any miscellaneous items specific to your circumstances. Consider weather conditions.

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You need to be prepared for accidents while camping, and having supplies ready in the event of a wound or a burn is important. Get these items together for your kit:  Bandages, in assorted sizes and shapes. Make sure to include butterfly bandages, which will hold the edge of a deep cut together, and triangular bandages to create slings or hold dressings. Blister pads Gauze pads Elastic bandages for wrapping sprains Moleskin Q-tips Antiseptic wipes Antibiotic cream , e.g. PVP Iodine solution and / or ointment. Burn ointment Rubbing alcohol, to clean tools such as tweezers in the event they are needed for an injury Hydrogen Peroxide about 3 % as solution. Some plastic vials with sterile NaCl 0,9% solution may be very helpful to rinse dirt away from the eyes or for cleaning a dirty wound as 1st step care. While on the trail, anything you need for your personal medical care should be packed in a first aid kit.  Any prescription medications you or your fellow travelers use. Over-the-counter pain management medication, like aspirin and ibuprofen. Gastrointestinal meds, such as antacids and anti-diarrheal medication. Antihistamines in the event of allergic reactions, e.g. Hydrocortisone Cream as OTC. Topical antibiotic cream to treat small, shallow wounds. While camping, you will need a variety of tools to get through snares and wounds on the trail. In your fist aid kid, you should store:  Tweezers Scissors Magnifying glass Safety pins Duct tape Needle with thread, in the event repairs are needed Medical gloves, which are needed for handling unsanitary materials Waterproof matches and fire starter Water purification tablets, in the event you run out of water and need to use stream or lake water Small-edge razor blade Fingernail clippers Flashlight A variety of batteries Emergency blanket, which is an aluminum style reflective blanket to have on hand if temperatures drop dangerously low or if you get wet Depending on weather and other conditions, you may need some of the following creams and sprays on your trip:. ...


Collect your coating instruments. Prepare your drying station. Ready your water. Stir the solution thoroughly. Transfer your solution for dipping. Dip your paper into the alum solution. Allow your document to dry.

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To waterproof your paper, you will be making a solution that will alter the surface of its fibers to change its absorbency. This will make your paper not only waterproof, but also more durable. You'll need:  Alum 8 oz (found in the spice area of grocery stores or online) Castile soap 3¾ oz (grated) Water 4 pt Gum arabic 2 oz Natural glue 4 oz Flat tray (deep) or wide mouth bowl Tongs When you have treated your paper with your solution, it will need to hang to dry. Clipping your piece of paper to a string or clothesline will be suitable for it to dry. However, droplets of this solution could possibly do damage to flooring or fabrics that aren't intended to be waterproofed. Be sure any droplets  land in an appropriate receptacle, on a drop cloth, or onto newspaper. To mix your ingredients properly, you will need your water to be slightly heated. When your water is warmed, mix your ingredients into the water one at a time. You will need to stir your ingredients until your solution is an even blend of all its parts. Be sure not to overheat your water during this time; the water can get hot but should not boil. The stirring process may take several minutes. Be patient and mix all ingredients thoroughly. You should remove your solution from the heat and let it cool for a short time. While the solution is still warm, pour the mixture into a large flat tray with deep rims or a wide mouthed bowl. These will make dipping your paper into your solution easier. Use your tongs to hold the paper, and dip it into the mixture, coating it completely. Don't allow the paper to remain in the solution too long, just long enough to coat the paper front and back. Once coated, remove your paper and hang it from a string or line. You can also use a wire cooling rack covered in wax paper to dry your paper. The wax paper will prevent your counter from any negative reaction to the solution.


Collect your dried up Play-Doh in a bowl. Sprinkle the Play-Doh with water. Knead the ball. Use the Play-Doh immediately or store properly.

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Keep the same colors together to prevent the Play-Doh dyes from mixing and forming a brownish color. Play-Doh is mostly made of flour, water, and salt, so adding life back to the hardened dough can be as simple as adding back the water that’s evaporated. If your Play-Doh has been out for an extended period of time (more than a couple months) and has fully hardened, it may not be possible to revive it. Massage the wet ball in your hands, working the water into the dough. Continue sprinkling the ball with water and massaging it. Once the dough has absorbed a sufficient amount of water and has become moist and malleable again, knead it on a countertop for a few minutes, until it has returned to its original form. Sprinkle it with more water as you’re  kneading, if necessary. Try kneading one-half teaspoon of glycerine into the Play-Doh to help moisten it further. Play-Doh will dry out when it’s exposed to air, so store it in an air-tight container. Consider wrapping it in a re-sealable plastic bag first.


Collect your eggs regularly. Keep the nest clean. Choose the eggs you wish to incubate. Mark your eggs. Store the eggs. Turn the eggs daily.

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Even if you are going to let the hens incubate the eggs, you will want to collect them and choose the best ones to incubate. Collect eggs two to three times a day to make sure that the eggs don’t get dirty or don’t start developing.  If it starts getting hot out, collect eggs even more often than normal, up to five times a day. Use a soft basket to hold the eggs while you collect them. This will help keep them from getting damaged. A little straw in a hand basket makes for a perfect egg basket. Handle the eggs delicately to keep from upsetting the membrane and other internal parts. Clean your hands before gathering eggs. This will help prevent you passing on bacteria to the egg. Although you should always be keeping the coop and nest boxes clean, it is especially important when breeding. Mud and droppings can increase the amount of harmful bacteria that can infect the egg, which will hurt the egg’s chances. Make sure the hens always have clean bedding. Choosing the right eggs will significantly increase your chances of a successful hatch. You will want to avoid eggs that are noticeably larger or smaller. Large eggs have difficulty hatching, and small eggs often produce chicks that are too small to live.  Do not choose any eggs that have been cracked. Also avoid eggs with thin shells. Do not choose eggs that are noticeably misshapen. Only keep the clean eggs. Washing or wiping dirty eggs removes protective coating, making it more vulnerable to bacteria. If you are hatching a lot of eggs, or are breeding different types of chickens, you may find it useful to mark the eggs with dates or breeds to help you keep track of them all. You can use a pencil, marking pen, or a stamp. Eggs can be stored up to 7 days after they have been laid and before you start incubating. Eggs should be stored for at least 24 hours before you start incubation, otherwise they may not hatch as well.  Try to maintain a temperature of 55 °F (13 °C) and high humidity. Store the eggs with the pointy end down. While you are storing the eggs,...


Collect your equipment. Tie the line down. Draw the line up slowly. Put the crab in a cooler.

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Handling for crab is a lot easier than the other methods in this article and there are fewer things you need. Basically, all you need is a dip net, a line or string long enough to reach the bottom of the water, and bait.  You can handline from a boat or off a dock, so you'll need to consider that when you get your line. Sometimes you have to weight the end of your line so that it sinks to the bottom. For bait, chicken necks, eel, or fish work well. Just attach a piece to your line before you sink it. You'll want to tie the line down and wait a bit so that the crabs have a chance to find the bait and get attached. You'll feel when the crab has crabbed onto the bait. You don't want to spook the crab so that it lets go. The bigger the crab the more likely it will be to spook and drop off, so go carefully. When it gets near the surface, scoop it up in your net. Pay attention to whether there is a current or tide, make sure that you place the net so that if the crab lets go it'll end up in your net and not swept away. Make sure that you have ice in there so that the crab gets sluggish and easier to manage. Avoid picking them up with your bare hands. Kitchen tongs or specialized crab tongs work find here.


Collect your ingredients. Begin by stirring together the coconut oil and baking soda. Add a few drops of essential oil at a time. Add Stevia for sweetness, if desired. Store the toothpaste in a glass jar. Scoop a bit onto your brush.

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For this recipe, you will need equal parts coconut oil and baking soda depending on how much you want to make. For example, you can start with 6 tablespoons of coconut oil and 6 tablespoons of baking soda. Essential oil to taste. Stevia if you wish, to add a bit of sweetness.  Coconut oil is believed to be effective against fighting a big cause of tooth decay, Streptococcus mutans, which is a bacterium that lives on sugar and also clings to teeth creating cavities. Coconut oil is supposed to pull all the bacteria away from your teeth, similar to how mouthwash works. Stevia is a natural sweetener that comes from a plant of the same name. It has antibacterial properties that are believed to fight against tooth decay. Mix them together until the baking soda and oil are thoroughly incorporated. This means that you will have a mixture that is a moist glob of coconut oil and baking soda. For this task, it is probably best to use a whisk, but a fork can work as well. Stir well after each addition, and put a tiny amount on your tongue to taste it. If you want to make the toothpaste a bit more palatable, add a few drops of Stevia at a time and stir well. Then, repeat the process of tasting a small amount before adding more. It will take at least half an hour for the substance to dissolve completely, so make sure you don't add too much. Stevia is known to be sweeter than processed sugar, so be careful! You don't want your paste to be too sweet! Essential oils should be stored in glass containers, so this is especially important if you have chosen to include oil. Store the paste near your toothbrush, out of direct sunlight in a cool dry place. You can dip your brush right into the paste if you wish, or you can use a small spoon to heap it directly on the brush. Experiment with using different amounts. Start with a pea-sized drop, and add more if you don’t feel it is enough.


Collect your ingredients. Slice and scoop out the avocado. Add two tablespoons of olive oil. Add an optional ingredient to the mixture.

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You'll need an avocado and olive oil to form the base of your mask. When it comes to adding moisture back to your hair, the avocado works great on all hair types. It’s packed with vitamins– A, D, and E, to name a few– and contains fats and oils that nourish every strand of hair.  Olive oil is a powerful natural conditioner, and it will make your hair shiny and smooth.  If you don't have olive oil on hand, try coconut oil. You may also add honey, lemon juice, or banana to your mask. You can do this hair mask every week, so you can try different mixtures of ingredients to see which works best on your hair type. Luckily, there is no risk of damage with any of these natural ingredients. Using a knife, cut the avocado in half. Because of the pit in the middle, you’ll have to rotate the avocado to cut all the way around it. After you remove the pit, scoop out the inside. Because you’ll be mashing the avocado anyways, you don’t need to worry about removing the center in neat little slices. Put the avocado in a bowl and throw away the peel.   The easiest way to remove the pit is by wedging your knife into it, and then pulling it out of the avocado half. If you don’t feel comfortable stabbing the pit with your knife, you can scoop out the pit with your spoon. Don’t worry if there are brown spots inside the avocado. They wouldn't taste good, but they will be great for your hair. If you don’t have a tablespoon, you can certainly just eyeball this step. Using a spoon or fork, mash up the avocado as you mix the olive oil into it. Add enough oil so that you’ve created a consistency that will easily coat your hair. Continue mixing until there are no chunks of avocado, and the mixture is nice and smooth. Add a tablespoon of the honey or lemon juice, and mix. If you choose to add a banana, you may need to add a bit more olive oil in order to get an easily spreadable consistency. Whatever you choose to add, mix until everything is blended thoroughly. You can also skip the optional ingredient all together, if you only have an...


Collect your materials. Cut out the cardboard base. Roll out the clay. Cut a square out of the clay. Cut additional squares out of the clay. Bevel the edges and create ridges. Let the clay dry. Paint the pyramid. Allow your project to dry.

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Making a clay pyramid allows you to get creative by making realistic indents and grooves in the walls to resemble an ancient Egyptian pyramid. You'll need the following materials for this method:  A large ball of modeling clay (the kind that air dries) A piece of cardboard Rolling pin Knife Ruler Pencil Scissors Paint (sandy brown color) Paintbrush Use the ruler and pencil to draw a square on your piece of cardboard. An 8-inch by 8-inch (20.3 cm by 20.3 cm) base is a good size, or you could make a larger base if you have plenty of clay. Cut out the square when you're finished. Knead the clay into a ball, the place it on a clean, dry surface. Use the rolling pin to roll out the clay to a thickness of 1 inch (2.5 cm). Cut a 6-inch by 6-inch (15.2 cm by 15.2 cm) square out of the clay. Center it on top of the cardboard base. The next layer should be 5 inches by 5 inches (12.7 cm by 12.7 cm), followed by 4 inches by 4 inches (10.2 cm by 10.2 cm), 3 inches by 3 inches (7.6 cm by 7.6 cm), 2 inches by 2 inches (5.1 cm by 5.1 cm), and finally 1 inch by 1 inch (2.5 cm by 2.5 cm). Stack each layer in the center of the previous layer. Press your ruler against the sides of the squares to slant them slightly downward. You can also create ridges by using the knife to make markings that look like stone shapes in the sides of the pyramid. Leave it alone for several hours, or even overnight, to give the pyramid time to dry and harden. Refer to the instructions on the clay packaging if you’re unsure how long it takes to dry completely. Pour the paint into a dish and use the paintbrush to spread an even coating on the pyramid. Alternatively, cover the pyramid in a light coating of white school glue and sprinkle it with sand before the glue dries. Let your finished pyramid to dry overnight. Then, take it to school and show off your hard work.


Collect your materials. Cut the weft yarn. Create a natural shed. Insert the weft thread. Insert the shed stick. Weave the second row. Continue to weave. Insert new weft thread. Complete the process.

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After warping your loom, gather your weaving materials. When weaving on a simple frame loom, you will need a small wooden dowel or a chopstick, a fork or another item with strong tines, such as an Afro pick, a shed stick, an assortment of springy wool, scissors, and a ruler When weaving on a cardboard loom, you will need an assortment of springy wool, a tapestry needle, masking tape, and scissors. The weft consists of the threads that go through the warp from side to side. Select a ball of wool. Measure out a 4’ piece of yarn and cut it. The weft yarn must be long enough to make several passes through the warp. Insert the dowel into the warp threads—it should be parallel to the top cross-bar. Position the dowel just above the point where the warp threads cross in the middle of the loom. Pull the dowel to the bottom of the loom, creating tension in the warp threads. The gap created between the front and back warp threads is called a natural shed. When weaving on a cardboard loom, you do not need to insert a dowel or create a shed. Pull your weft thread through shed from right to left. Leave a 4” tail of yarn on the right. Allow the weft thread to fall down towards the dowel. When weaving on a cardboard loom, insert the warp thread with a needle. Thread the needle with the precut warp thread. Begin at the top right corner. Leave a 3” tail at the start of the first row. Weave under the first warp thread, over the second, under the third, over the fourth. Continue weaving the thread under and over the warp until you reach the end of the line. Each line will begin with an under and end with an over. Retrieve the shed stick. Weave the shed thick through the warp threads. Go under the bottom warp threads and over the top warp threads. Grab each end of the shed stick and turn it 90° to create a new shed.   When the shed stick is inserted into the the warp, the gap between the top and bottom warp threads is called a shed. When weaving on a cardboard loom, you do not have to insert a shed stick. Loosely pull the weft...


Collect your materials. Draw the boomerang shape on the cardboard. Cut the boomerang shape out. Play with your boomerang.

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Before beginning the project, gather all of the materials needed so you can easily complete the craft. You will need a few tools and supplies to make a cardboard boomerang.  Cardboard Pen or pencil Scissors Ruler It’s important to make sure your boomerang’s arms are the same size for it to fly correctly. Use a ruler to draw the lines creating the shape of the boomerang on the cardboard.  Use the ruler to draw an 10 inch line on your cardboard. Draw another 10 inch line perpendicular the the first line, making sure the center of the line matches up with the center of the first line. The two lines should make a cross or “x” shape. Draw 2 lines that are 2 inches away from the first line on either side of it. These lines should be running parallel to the first line. Repeat this with the second line that was drawn. You should have 3 lines running one direction and 3 lines running perpendicular to create a cross or “x” shape. Draw a small arc to connect the ends of each group of 3 lines. Cut along the outer edge of each boomerang arm to cut out the boomerang. Your boomerang should look like an “X” with curved ends to the arms. Have fun throwing your boomerang and seeing if it will return to you. Hold the boomerang with one of the arms in your hand, and throw it at an angle away from you. It might take some practice to figure out the best way to throw your boomerang.


Collect your materials. Measure the width of your lashes. Cut a rectangle of your fabric. Cut the "hair" of your false lashes. Curl your false lashes. Decorate your false lashes according to your taste.

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You'll be able to make your false eyelashes more quickly and without interruption if you have the materials you need on hand. You can use a length of string to measure the width of your lashes. Simply run your thread from one corner of your eye to the other, looking in a mirror as you do so to ensure you are properly following your lash line. Trim excess string so that it is the exact width of your eyelash line. The width of your fabric will be the same as that of your measuring string, but the length of your fabric rectangle will determine the length of your false lashes. The longer you make your strip of fabric, the longer your lashes will be. You can always trim down the length of your false lashes when you are finished, so it is better to cut your fabric longer and trim it down later. Using your scissors, cut your fabric in very thin strips from one end to the other. You will need to leave about 1-2 millimeters of fabric uncut at the base of your false lashes. This is where you will apply your adhesive to attach your eyelashes to your eyelid. You can attempt to curl your lashes by holding the 1-2 millimeter strip you left uncut and applying your hot plate to the "hair" part of your false eyelashes. If you have trouble getting the desired curl, you may need to lay your false lashes to a round, heat-resistant surface and then apply your hot plate. This will cause your false lashes to curl along the rounded edge of whatever object you are using. You may need to apply product to your false lashes to help maintain this curl. Cloth eyelashes are great for a feathery, delicate look, so why not add a small, delicate feather in the corner of your false eyelashes? Glitter and sequins are also good options to give your lashes a unique touch.


Collect your materials. Measure your eye to determine your eyelash width. Draw a wide strip of eyelash adhesive on your plastic surface. Add your bristles. Spread a second layer of glue. Trim your excess glue and lash. Curl your false eyelashes. Decorate your lashes.

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You'll be able to make your false eyelashes more quickly and without interruption if you have the materials you need on hand. A previously used strip of lashes can work well as your width guide. If you don't have one you can hold a length of thread up to your eye. Look in the mirror and lay the thread across your natural lash line from corner to corner.  After moving the thread away from your eye, trim your thread to the length of your lash line so you can use it to create your seam. This will be the base of your lashes, or the "seam." If you have false lashes on hand, you can use these to determine the width of your seam, but if not, use the string that you've trimmed to the length of you lash line. You will need to wait about two minutes for the eyelash adhesive to dry until it is tacky. Cut a section off your brush at the base and spread its bristles until you have achieved your target fullness. Press these into your glue, and use a spatula or popsicle stick to apply firm pressure. Switch between using your finger and spatula, removing any glue residue from your spatula as it forms. As your bristles stick to the adhesive, you may notice that your false eyelashes aren't as thick as you intended. Add bristles to your seam until you've achieved your desired thickness. Once you have the lashes appropriately thick, carefully spread a thin layer of glue over the top of the bristles to seal your seam. Allow the glue to dry completely, which usually takes about five minutes. Once the eyelash adhesive is completely dry, carefully peel the strip of glue from your plastic surface. Carefully cut away excess glue to form a slim seam. Now you can shape the ends of the lashes in your favorite style. You can cover any visible glue with eyeshadow. It's best to use a color that matches the color of your false eyelashes. Using tweezers to protect your hand from the heat of your curling iron, press your lashes against the hotplate until you achieve the right amount of curl. Now you can use hairspray to help hold the shape and...


Collect your materials. Put your napkin on a level surface. Fold each corner to the center. Fold each corner to the center again. Place a glass on the center of the napkin. Reach underneath one corner. Repeat with each corner. Remove the glass.

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In order to make a rose fold, you will need a square napkin, a level surface to work on, and a glass with a round bottom. There are multiple variations of the rose fold that vary in complexity. This is a basic rose fold that can be used for decorative purposes. The rose fold also looks great with paper napkins to display with cocktails. Be sure to smooth out any visible wrinkles and orient the napkin as a square. Take each corner, one at a time, and fold it to the center of the square. Each corner will now become a smaller triangle with a point in the middle.  Repeat until all four corners are folded. Your napkin should now be oriented like a diamond. Turn the napkin over. Make sure the folds remain intact while you flip the napkin. Now, you will repeat the same folding process with each corner. As you fold each corner towards the center, you will see two small triangles appear. The glass needs to be large enough to cover each of the four tips. The glass will keep the corners in place as you move to the next steps of the process. Press down on the glass to hold it in place with your non-dominant hand. Pull the fold out gently until the tip is approximately 1/4 inch further out than the top corner..  By pulling the tips of the fold out, you’ll create the petal shapes of the rose. Made sure you are still holding onto the glass with your non-dominant hand so the rest of the corners stay secure. Repeat the process of pulling the tip out with each of the remaining corners.. Remember to maintain the pressure on the glass so the rest of the napkin doesn’t unfold. Once each corner has been pulled out to make the petal shape, you can remove the glass. Now that the rose fold is finished, you can place it on a dinner plate to display. You can use this fold to display smaller bowls or plates that are placed on top of the inner corners.


Collect your patinating necessities. Prepare to patinate the metal. Soak the metal in vinegar. Intensify oxidation with peroxide, if desired. Allow your metal to dry and consider a sealant.

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You can find most of these items and ingredients in your home. You'll need a suitable container to soak your metal in a patinating solution, like a plastic container or cheap bowl. After patinating, you can clean this container and reuse it as you see fit, but it must at least be deep enough to completely submerge the metal you'll be patinating. Including these things, you'll also need:  Clean rag (or paper towels; for drying) Container Hydrogen peroxide (3% solution; optional) Metal (to patinate) Plastic/rubber gloves (optional; recommended) Salt (any kind OK) White vinegar For the best results, always clean your metal and container before patinating. Even fingerprints or invisible residue can influence the outcome of your patination, so clean and dry your metal and container carefully and thoroughly.  In most cases, a few drops of dish soap and a scrub brush will be enough to clean light to moderately dirty pieces of metal and containers. Soak especially dirty metal pieces in degreaser. This will remove build up in difficult to reach nooks and crannies. If you're trying to patinate steel, cleaning it with Trisodium Phosphate can be very effective. Then rinse off the metal and allow it to air dry.  Wearing clean gloves while cleaning and handling the metal can protect your skin from harsh cleaning agents while preventing fingerprints from being re-transferred. Add vinegar to your clean, dry container so there is enough to completely submerge the metal. Then add an equal amount of salt to the vinegar, stir it thoroughly, and insert the metal so it can sit in the solution and create a vinegar-salt patina.  Allow metal to soak in vinegar-salt patinating solutions for no less than half an hour. This solution can produce many colors of patina depending on soak time, metal composition, temperature, and other factors. For more intense oxidation, first soak the metal in only vinegar. Following that, add hydrogen peroxide and salt to the vinegar as subsequently described. The addition of hydrogen peroxide and salt to...


Collect your supplies. Maintain your calm. Hold the bleeding nail at 90 degrees to the dry soap. Hold the foot still in this position for 3 - 4 minutes. Repeat.

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If you’re using a bar of soap, the soap is the only thing you’ll need. An ordinary bar of soap, when pressed into the claw, will form a plug that covers the quick, like putting a cork in a bottle. This plug generally dislodges itself several hours later and needs no further attention. Ideally you’ve prepared yourself for this situation and can calmly use the materials you have ready at hand to stop the bleeding.  A healthy dog won’t be at risk from blood loss from a bleeding quick, but the blood can be somewhat alarming, particularly if your dog seems distressed. Know that the dog is in no danger, but act quickly to minimize its discomfort. Remaining calm is important to both you and your dog. If you cut the dog’s quick, the dog will likely be distressed and will look to you for cues on how to react. If you show alarm or become frantic, your dog likely will, too. Gently restrain your dog to keep it still as you do this. Push firmly so that the nail is embedded into the soap to a depth of approximately 3 - 4 millimeters. This places gentle pressure on the blood vessels and stops them from bleeding.  Remove the toe from the soap after 3 - 4 minutes with a gentle twisting action. If your dog won’t hold still, push the claw firmly into the soap and then remove the soap with a slight twist of the wrist. If a plug doesn’t form, repeat the above process again, pressing the claw into the soap until you’re successful.  You’ll know a plug has successfully been formed when the soap is blocking the tip of the nail and no more blood is seeping through. If the bleeding won’t stop, contact your vet.


Collect your supplies. Wash your hands. Wash your penis. Apply lubricant. Insert the catheter. Make sure the external end is secure. Remove the catheter gently. Dispose of the catheter or clean it if it is reusable .

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Before beginning, make sure to collect all the supplies you need. This includes the catheter, a towelette or other cleaning wipe, lubricant, and a container for urine, if needed. Go ahead and open the catheter so it is ready to use. Make sure to touch only the end of the catheter that will be outside your body. After gathering all the supplies, wash your hands with soap and water. This ensures you don't contaminate anything or cause an infection. Wash the tip of your penis with a towelette, soap and water, or baby wipes. Don't use alcohol to clean off the tip of your penis. Alcohol can be very drying. Push back the foreskin of your penis before you wash if you are uncircumcised. Make sure to keep the foreskin back during the whole catheterization process. After cleaning, apply a small amount of the lubricant to the tip and the first two inches of the catheter. Some catheters may come pre-lubricated, so you may not have to apply lubricant to the catheter. Make sure the lubricant is water soluble. Hold your penis straight out from your body, stretching it so that it is at a 90 degree angle (right angle) to your body. Take a deep breath, and using your other hand, insert the catheter using firm, gentle pressure. Exhale as you insert it. Do not push hard on the catheter, and do not force it. Twist the catheter slightly one way and the other to “thread it” through the urethra. The male urethra is quite long; you will not push it too far, though it may look as if a very long part of the catheter has disappeared into you.  Don't worry, you won't be able to push it through your bladder.  Insertion isn't usually painful, but it can be quite uncomfortable. Breathing can help. If the catheter is not sliding in, try to relax, breathe deeply, and try again. Use a mirror placed so that you can see what you are doing, especially the first few times. Some men prefer to gently squeeze the end of the penis to open up the urethra just as they begin to insert the catheter Pulling the penis straight out straightens out the...


Collect your tomahawk making supplies. Determine your method of cutting. Prepare your work area, if necessary. Outline the shape of your head if cutting by plasma torch. Set up your cutting implements, if necessary. Cut your plate steel. Sharpen your tomahawk head. Fashion your handle. Attach the ax-head and handle. Grind or file away any remaining burrs. Add finishing touches.

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To make your own throwing tomahawk will require some some metalworking tools and raw material. Before you get started, you should gather:  ¼"  plate steel ¾" heavy gauge metal pipe Cutting goggles Fire extinguisher Hacksaw Heavy insulated gloves Plasma cutting torch/cutting laser (or other steel cutting tool) Pipe (for handle) Striker (for lighting torch) Welding Equipment File or grinding wheel To cut steel you will need an appropriate metal cutting torch or access to a mild steel cutting laser. If you do not feel comfortable operating a high temperature steel-cutting torch, you should ask your local hardware store about places you might take mild-steel for fabrication. You don't want any flammable materials around if you intend on using a plasma torch to cut your tomahawk head. Bare earth or concrete will reduce the possibilities of a spark from your torch causing a fire. Working on a steel table that's a comfortable height for you is recommended. Be wary if your table or anything else has a coating. These can sometimes be highly flammable, and the fumes can be toxic. Draw the desired shape of your tomahawk head on your steel plate. To do this, you can either use a soapstone or permanent marker. You will need to hook up the appropriate tanks and gauges, turn off the necessary regulators, put on your gloves, and light your torch with your striker. If you haven't performed this process in a while, you may want to revisit how to use a cutting torch, or instead of using a plasma torch, find a facility nearby that has a laser cutter you can use to fashion your tomahawk. Make sure your plate is affixed to your table with clamps and be mindful of these while using your torch. Do not use clamps that are unable to withstand a considerable degree of heat, as these may melt. Arrange your plate at your workstation so that in cutting you will not damage the surface on which your plate rests. Now that you've got the head of your tomahawk cut to size, you will need to sharpen it so that when you throw your 'hawk it sticks...


Collect your tools and supplies. Coat your painted wicker with wood staining. Touch up drips and allow the staining to dry. Encourage drying with your hair dryer.

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You may have many of these supplies already on hand, but anything you're missing can be found at your local hardware store or in the home improvement section of a general retailer. This technique works best with dark colors, like green, brown, and so on. You'll need:  Drop cloth Dust mask Hairdryer (that has a "cool" setting) Paintbrush Paper towel (or clean rags) Rubber gloves Safety glasses (or goggles) Sponge Stain (walnut colored) But before you do, check your wood staining's label instructions. Always wear gloves, a dust mask, and protective eye wear, like safety glasses or goggles when working with staining. You may also have to mix the staining before using it. Then, take your paint brush and liberally coat the entire surface of your wicker furniture.  Apply your staining in a similar fashion as you would normal liquid primer or paint. Start from the top of the furniture and work your way to its bottom. Use long, regular, overlapping strokes when applying your staining. This will help you prevent missed spots, and will promote a smooth application. Use your brush and paper towel or a clean rag to smooth out any drips, runs, or uneven spots in your staining. Pay close attention to cracks, crevices, and corners, as these are common trouble spots. The crevices formed by the weavings of the wicker can result in those nooks and crannies drying slower than others. Set your hairdryer to the "cool" setting, plug it in, and use it to blow air into crevices.  While blow drying, the force from the air may cause staining that is still wet to puddle unevenly on the furniture. Use your brush and a paper towel or clean rag to smooth these areas. When the nooks and crannies of your wicker furniture begin to look dry, switch off your hair dryer and allow the furniture to dry overnight.


Color a blank bottle with permanent markers for something quick and easy. Paint the bottle using acrylic paint or spray paint for something colorful. Decorate a blank or painted bottle with stickers for something simple. Wrap duct tape or colored/washi tape around the bottle for a durable pattern. Hot glue colorful buttons, gems, or rhinestones for a pop of color. Cover the bottle with yarn or twine. Punch holes along the rim, then weave colorful yarn through the holes. If your bottle is made from PET or PETE plastic, use an iron to give it a nice rim.

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If you don't want to use tissue paper, you can simply draw on your bottle with permanent markers. This will give you a translucent, stained glass effect. If you make a mistake, dip a q-tip in rubbing alcohol, and "erase" the mistake. Wipe the area dry, and continue drawing. To make the paint stick better, consider buffing the entire bottle using a fine grit sand paper. Paint the entire bottle a solid color first, wait for the paint to dry, then add details, such as flowers. If you don't have a lot of supplies on hand, you can always decorate the bottle with stickers. For example, you could paint a bottle dark blue or purple, wait for the paint to dry, then cover it with silver or gold star stickers. Unroll about 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) of tape, and press it down on the bottle, right against the bottom edge. Keeping the roll of tape close to the bottle, start winding the tape around the bottle. When you come back to where you started, overlap the tape by ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) and snip the tape off. Start your next row just above the first one; you can also overlap the rows a little. If the tape extends over the top of the bottle, fold it inwards, inside the bottle. You can cover the entire bottle, or just small portions of it, with buttons, gems, or rhinestones. Make sure that you focus most of your design on the bottom however; if you glue too many things towards the top, your pencil holder will fall over. For a more colorful pencil holder, paint it or cover it with tissue paper maché first. Draw a line of glue along the top rim, and press the string down onto it. Start wrapping the string around the bottle. adding a line of glue every few inches/centimeters. When you reach the bottom of the bottle, draw another line of glue, and press the end of the string into it. Use a hole punch to poke holes ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) apart along the rim. Thread some yarn through a yarn needle, and use the needle to weave the yarn in and out of the holes. This will give you a more colorful rim. You will need to do...


Color another piece of conductive glass with graphite. Put a spacer between pieces of glass. Add an electrolyte solution. Press the pieces of glass together.

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This peice of glass will act as a counter-electrode. You can use a regular graphite pencil. Just rub the tip of the pencil over the glass until it is fully covered with the graphite residue. You can cut a thin plastic spacer to put between the pieces of glass. The spacer should go on the clean side of the glass (opposite the tea or graphite side). Alternatively, you can put tape around the edges on the clean side of the glass to form a spacer. This keeps the glass ever so slightly separated. An iodine solution is an ideal electrolyte. You can get it over the counter at most pharmacies. Mix the solution in a 3:1 ratio with alcohol. Put one to two drops of the solution between the two pieces of glass. Before the solution has time to evaporate, press the two pieces of glass firmly together. Use alligator clips to hold them in place. Your cell is now capable of producing electrical currents when exposed to light. You can test this by placing the cell in sunlight and using a multimeter to check for current.


Color block. Wear maxi skirts. Wear jeans. Wear a long coat. Have fun with your shoes. Express your own style. Wear sunglasses. Wear jewelry. Finish it off with belts and handbags.

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One of the biggest fashion trends is to use large blocks of color in your outfit. The hijab can be the perfect block of color for any stylish outfit. Pair the bright hijab with simple patterns in your shirt, skirt, or dress. Alternately, wear a patterned hijab and pair it with a dress, shirt, or skirt in a bold block of color. Maxi skirts and dresses are a trendy look that pairs perfectly with a hijab. A maxi skirts and dresses are floor-length styles that can be paired with blouses, t-shirts, heels, flats, jackets, and sweaters. They are one of the most versatile pieces of clothing, perfect for dressing up and down. Jeans are a timeless fashion staple. Pair skinny jeans with a long, flowing top or sweater. Wear boyfriend jeans and flats or sneakers. Buy jeans with rips or in distressed patterns. Choose jeans in black, great, or lighter washes, or try colored denim for a funky, color blocked look. During the winter, pair your hijab with a fashionable long coat. Coats come in every color of the rainbow and an assortment of patterns. Choose one that matches your hijab for a sleek, elegant winter look. The easiest way to add a fashionable flare to any outfit is to wear the right shoes. Knee boots, ankle boots, high heel booties, pumps, gladiator sandals, sneakers, wedges - any of these fashionable shoe styles would go perfectly with a hijab. Do you love hip-hop? Punk? Hipster? Skater? Retro 90s? Tie-dye? Wearing a hijab does not mean you cannot express yourself. Create hip-hop style with a baseball cap, music tee, and baggy clothes. Go punk or skater with black fabrics, red and black plaids paired with white and black checkered prints, and chains on your hijab. Get a hipster or 90s retro style with a jean vest and high-waisted pants or skirts. The possibilities are endless for expressing your own fashion sense. When outside, choose a pair of fashionable shades to wear with your hijab. There are many styles of sunglasses to choose from: large and round, Rayban retro, or vintage cat-eye. Sunglasses can be bought...


Color coordinate suspenders with the rest of your clothing. Keep them under your jacket to stay classy in formal settings. Wear suspenders over a collared shirt for a semi-professional look. Adopt a punk twist with skinny suspenders. Wear leather for old-fashioned charm.

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Incorporate suspenders into your overall outfit to make them into a fashion statement. Match them with same-colored shoes, pants, or a jacket, depending on your preference. When wearing your suspenders for work or a special occasion, keep them neatly tucked away beneath a suit jacket or vest. Pair them with a button-down shirt, suit jacket, suit pants, and dress loafers. Suspenders used to be thought of as underwear inappropriate for public display. While that’s not commonly believed today, the rule still applies in formal settings. Wear the suspenders over a dressy shirt, leaving the suit jacket off. Striped or seersucker suspenders are most common, but other colors and prints can be used. This look can be worn in public without making you seem overdressed. Pair the suspenders with linen suit pants or khaki pants and black or brown dress loafers. Put on colored suspenders with skinny straps to adopt a 1960s London style. Wear them with jeans and sneakers. This look has a punk or hipster appeal and can be worn every day in public.  Rugged, durable pants like jeans or corduroy trousers are better for this look since it is inspired by the working class. A tucked-in, button-down shirt is still the classic way to go, but make it a little slack by leaving the top buttons undone, rolling up the sleeves, or wearing flannel print or other colors. Keep your shoes fairly durable. Opt for sneakers or boots over loafers. Leather suspenders look unique and rustic. They match up well with tweed trousers, a button-down shirt, and old-fashioned accessories like a driving cap, a bowtie, or a trench coat.  Dark jeans are another option for this look. Stick with leather loafers or leather dress boots to complete the look.


Color the whole plate brown. Draw a heart shape on the flat part of the plate. Cut the heart shape from the middle of the plate. Cut half circles from the heart shape for ears. Cut smaller half circles from a piece of tan or cream paper. Glue the ear pieces together and then glue to the face. Make an oval out of the tan paper. Draw a mouth and a nose on the oval. Attach the mouth and nose to the face. Attach a popsicle stick to the bottom. Finished.

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You will probably want the eating side of the plate to be the face, but it is up to you exactly how you want the mask to look. If you want to use more than one shade of brown you can add depth to the face.  You can use craft paint if you have some handy or you want to buy some. You can also use a brown marker. Crayon or colored pencil will work but will not give you a full color. If you paint it, let it dry as directed by the paint bottle. You'll probably need at least 20 minutes. Make a straight line from edge to edge on the plate. Start about one inch down the line and draw the left curve of the heart up to the edge of plate and extending down to one inch from the bottom of the center line. Repeat for the right side of the heart. It is not important for the bottom of the heart to be perfect, as it will be covered up. Just make sure the top has two nice curves. These will form the top of the opening for the eyes. It may work best to use a razor knife with the plate sitting on a cutting board or a piece of cardboard. Do not throw this piece away because you will be using it again soon. You can use scissors this time since you are not cutting out of the middle. You can cut perfect half-circles, or you can make them more oblong and ear-shaped.  Since monkeys often have large ears, it is okay to exaggerate the size of the ears a little bit. The size of the ears is up to you. It may be easiest to simply cut the rounded tops off of the heart and use these pieces as the ears of the mask. These half circles will be the inner part of the ear that is lighter than the rest. You can cut them in the exact same shape as the ear pieces you just cut, or you can shape them more like an inner ear with curves.  If you do not have tan or cream paper, you could cut the inner ear from the heart shape and color the unpainted part tan. You could also cut from white paper and color the shapes tan. Using a glue stick is best because it dries faster and makes less of a mess. Line the small half-circles up on the big half-circles and...


Color your hair every 3-4 weeks if you're mostly grey. Have your highlights redone at least 3-4 times a year. Wash your hair with a color-safe shampoo and conditioner once a week. Leave vitamin E oil in your hair overnight to replenish its moisture.

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Maintaining a color over gray hair can be quite an investment! A 3-4 week cycle will keep your color vibrant and refreshed. You can either dye your own hair or go to a salon. If you'd rather have a professional perfect the color for you, go to a salon. This can get pricey, so if you're on a budget, buy your own dye and color it yourself. If less than half of your hair is grey, you can usually stretch it to every 5 weeks. Since highlights blend in with the lightness of grey hair, they don't require as many regular touch-ups. However, if you want to keep them looking neat and refreshed, go to the salon when the roots have grown out. To maintain the color of your dyed hair, it's important to use specially formulated shampoo and conditioner with color-safe ingredients. Since grey hair can be drier and more brittle, you only need to wash it around once a week. Avoid color-safe formulas with purple or ashy tones, however, as these can emphasize the grey in your hair. Since grey hair is stiffer and drier than normal hair, you may need to use a vitamin E treatment to improve its health and shine. Whenever your hair is feeling particularly dry, work vitamin E oil through your hair, wrap it in a bandana, and leave it on for the night while you sleep. Wash it out with shampoo in the morning.  Do this once a week or whenever your hair is feeling particularly dry. You can find vitamin E oil online or at a local drugstore.


Color your hair. Eat a hair-healthy diet. Massage your scalp to improve circulation.

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Coloring your hair can actually make it look fuller and bigger. If you lighten it with bleach, the process roughs up the cuticle so it appears thicker. However, you don’t have to color all over for fuller-looking hair. Adding a few highlights can help make your hair appear more voluminous. While bleaching and dyeing can make your hair look thicker, be careful not to over-color it. That can dry your hair out and lead to damage. If your hair is fine or thinning, incorporating foods that promote hair growth into your diet can help give you bigger hair. Look for foods that are rich in biotin, zinc, iron, and protein to support healthy hair growth so your hair becomes fuller.  Tofu, kale, spinach, chard, and beans are high in biotin, zinc, and iron. Salmon, eggs, beans, bananas, cauliflower, peanuts, and lentils are also high in biotin. Lean red meat, chicken, seafood, eggs, nuts, beans, low-fat dairy, and whole grains are high in protein. Another way to encourage hair growth is to boost circulation to your scalp. Stimulate blood flow to your hair follicles by massaging it regularly. That helps promote healthy hair growth and makes your fine or thin hair appear plumper. For an effective scalp massage, spread a few drops of a lightweight hair oil, such as argan, macadamia nut, sweet almond, or coconut oil between your fingertips and rub it into your scalp in circular motions just before you plan to wash your hair.


Color your mask with markers, crayons and paint. Add glitter, jewels, feathers or any other decoration you have available. Set your mask aside so it can dry completely.

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Now that you have the shape of your mask, design its base color. You can use any medium that you wish to make your design, but paint, markers and crayons work best. You can make it a solid color or add designs such as stripes, stars, polka dots or even scars. Chalk and pastels can rub off and get into your eyes, while markers with heavy scents or fumes can irritate your eyes and nose. Once you’ve finished your base layer of color, put your additions onto your paper mask. Use white craft glue to attach them to your mask because it is water based and less likely to aggravate your skin or eyes. Craft glue is also flexible when dry, so your mask will still be able to form around your face. Be careful that your chosen decorations are not too heavy or too numerous. Too many additions will weigh down the paper and make it difficult for the mask to maintain its form. Too much added weight will also make it difficult for the mask to stay in place over your face. Before doing anything else with your mask, let it dry completely. If possible, leave it overnight. If you continue before letting the glue or paint dry, you will likely ruin your mask before you ever get to wear it.


Comb all of your hair to the very top of your head and twist it tightly. Cut off however much hair you want. Let go. Twist your hair in the opposite direction. Cut off any straggly hairs. Let go and comb out.

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This cut will give you a more angled haircut, and it is ideal if you want an inverted bob. Keep in mind that this method will not remove much length from your hair, but cutting a lot of hair can result in heavy layering as well as significant weight removal from your hair, which may not make it ideal for fine or thin hair. Holding your hair firmly up above your head, cut into it with scissors. You can determine where the shortest layer will fall by pinching a piece of hair from the front hairline where you want the shortest layer to fall. Pull it back to where you will twist. This can act as a guide for where to cut. Let your hair fall back down and run a comb through it. Pulling your hair up once more, twist it in the opposite direction. Holding your twisted hair up over your head again, move across the ends of it, snipping away any hairs that stick out. Let go of your hair and comb it out, styling it as you wish.


Comb out any tangles using your fingers or a wide-toothed comb. Hold the hairdryer about 12 inches (30 cm) away from your hair to rough dry.

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Start at the ends of your hair, and work your way up to the roots. Never run a comb down from the roots to the ends if your hair is tangled. Make sure to do this while your hair is still wet, not after it dries. Avoid using hairbrushes on wet hair, especially if you have curly hair. This can lead to frizz. Rough drying is when you blow dry your hair without using a hairbrush. The only time when you can bring the hairdryer closer is when you are styling your hair. Holding the hairdryer too close to your hair can result in heat damage, and damaged hair is often frizzy.


Comb the cat once a day. Ready your cat. Find the right tools. Start with the brush and work your way down. Start with the cat on its stomach with the cat's back end facing you. Turn the cat onto its back and hold it down. Try line brushing. Try brushing against the grain.

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Long-haired cats need more maintenance than short-haired cats. They need to be brushed daily to prevent mats. You may need to brush the cat in short bursts throughout the day, picking times when the cat seems content, to get the cat all the way brushed. You may get away with brushing every few days if your cat isn't prone to mats. Your cat should be somewhere solid. A table or the floor is fine, but an elevated surface works better. You can also use a couch or the bed. Also, be sure your cat is calm. You can help the process along by petting the cat and speaking calmly to it. Scratch the cat in the good places it likes to make sure it's content before you begin. For a long-haired cat, the best tools are a wire brush, undercoat combs, and a flea comb. You can also use wide-tooth combs, if that's all you have, which can help especially when your cat is losing hair due to seasonal shedding. Undercoat combs have both long and short teeth. They are best for loosening hair in the undercoat. You'll need to start with a less fine undercoat comb and move to a finer one before using a flea comb. If the cat's fur is particularly bad, you'll need to start with the brush or wide-tooth comb first to get the major tangles out of the way first. Once you've worked through that, you can move down to an undercoat comb. Next, you can move to a finer undercoat comb, and then to the flea comb.  You want to start with wider-toothed combs and brushes first because you won't be able to get a fine flea comb through the coat the first time. If your cat's fur isn't too tangled, you may be able to start with a less fine undercoat comb. Use the finer combs on the cat's head and legs. You probably won't have to hold the cat down in this position. Groom the back of the cat thoroughly, starting at the head and working down to the tail. After you've groomed the cat's back, turn it over so that it is laying on its back with its belly exposed. Lay it slightly on one side, with one front leg closer to the table and one more in the air.  Make a...


Comb the thin-set onto the floor. Set each tile down and wiggle it a bit. Use a tile cutter to make smaller tile pieces. Inspect each section of tile before moving on. Work the grout into the joints.

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Dip your trowel into the bucket of thin-set and spread it out across the floor. Move your trowel in the same direction, to reduce the possibility of air pockets. If there were low spots in the floor that you marked earlier, you may need to apply extra thin-set to those areas. Hold the tile above its future spot and drop it down gently and slowly. Move it just a bit side-to-side to secure the tile to the floor. Tap the top of the tile with a wooden hammer as well. Place a level on top of the tile to verify that the tile is level. Continue until all the tiles are placed. Thin-set starts to dry immediately. If you need to peel up a tile and move it, you’ll need to do so almost immediately or risk having to chisel away hardened thin-set. The thin-set will be totally dry within 24-48 hours. You can either rent a cutter or buy a hand-held one from a home improvement store. You’ll likely need to cut tiles to complete the edges of your floor. Hold a full tile under the cutter and run the scoring wheel across the top. Next, push down on the cutter’s handle until the tile snaps along the scoring line. Other options for cutting tile include using a wet saw or glass cutting tool. After you finish four or more tiles, stand up and take a few steps back. Look down to see if the tiles appear in proper alignment. Place a level across the tiles to make sure it is even. Take this opportunity to clean away any thin-set from the tile’s surface with a damp sponge as well. When all of the tiles are placed, mix your grout in a bucket according to the package directions. Use a trowel and grout float to press the grout in between each tile. Wipe away any excess from the tile’s surface before it hardens by using your trowel and a sponge. When you are finished, let the grout dry for two days before walking on it. Don’t add too much water to your grout. It should be similar in texture to cake batter.


Comb your hair. Rub a few drops of almond oil into your palms. Run your fingers through your hair. Apply it to the tips as needed.

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Comb your dry hair until it's tangle-free. Start at the ends of your hair and work your way up to prevent painful snagging and breakage. Just a few drops, less than half a teaspoon of almond oil, should be enough to coat your hair. You don't want to go overboard, or your hair will end up looking oily for the rest of the day. Start at the ends of your hair and then slowly work up into the strands, stopping at least 5 inches (12.7cm) from the scalp. Coating the ends of your hair with almond oil will tame flyaways and frizz and give your hair a sleeker look. Don't apply it too close to your roots, or your hair will look oily. Using almond oil is a great way to protect your hair from dryness and split ends. Put a few drops onto your fingers and apply the oil to the very tips of your hair a few times a day, or however often you need, to keep your hair strong and beautiful.


Combat training is useful. Utilize everything at your disposal. Use the gun that suits you best. Run UAV Jammer or UAV. Don't use red dot sights. Sound is your friend. Find your play style.

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You'll improve your skill at the game while learning the maps. If you're new to CoD, then it's recommended to start from here. This is especially important about equipment. If you average 1.00 K/D, an extra kill per death through claymores will put you at 2.00. People might give you a hard time for it, but you'll have the advantage. Both of these kill streaks are underused, but can give you a massive advantage. It's recommended to use Jammer over UAV, because it will give you an advantage. Learning to use the iron sights can be a real pain, but it is most definitely worth it. Take an attachment like Dual Mag, Grip or Masterkey to really get the advantage. (Although using red dot can be useful if the weapon takes up quite a bit of screen space.) If you have a pair of gaming headphones, you'll realize what this means. You'll hear someone shooting at you and can react before they even hit you sometimes. Find out what you are good at. If you're quick on your feet it's recommended for a sub-machine gun class. If your more of a patient player, use an assault rifle or LMG. If you are good at camping, try to use bouncing bettys or claymores, and maybe a sniper rifle.


Combine 1 gallon (3.8 L) vinegar with 25 to 30 drops essential oil. Add 1/4 cup (60 ml) to your rinse cycle. Continue through a standard rinse cycle.

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Stir the essential oil directly into the container of white distilled vinegar for a minute or so to ensure that the two liquids combine well.  Note that the essential oil is not necessary. The vinegar is the component responsible for softening clothes. It strips away residue on your clothes that would otherwise make them stiff, and it has properties that can break down some of the minerals found in hard water supplies. If you do decide to use essential oils, you can use any scents you want. For a normal load, fill a fabric softener ball with 1/4 cup (60 ml) of the fabric softener solution or add the same amount directly to the washer just before the rinse cycle begins.  Do not add the fabric softener to the machine before its primary wash cycle. Pour the rest of the fabric softener into a storage container. Make sure that this fabric softener is labeled so that you do not accidentally use it for another purpose. Shake or stir well to before each use to make sure that the essential oil and vinegar have not separated as it sat. You do not need to do anything special from this point on. Let your rinse cycle finish up as it normally would.


Combine 1 part baking soda with 1 part oil. Rub the mixture into the area that has glue on it. Let the mixture sit on the jar for 30 minutes. Scrub off the glue with a scouring pad. Wash the plastic with soap and warm water.

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You can use any type of oil, like coconut or olive oil. Mix together equal parts of the oil and baking soda in a small bowl until they form a paste.  The baking soda will act as an exfoliant to scrub off the glue. Other oil options include canola, vegetable, or sunflower oil. How much you mix up depends on the size of the glue spot. For glue left by a label on 1 plastic jar, for example, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of baking soda and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of oil should work. Use your hands to apply the baking soda and oil, making sure to saturate all of the glue by rubbing in small circles. Add enough of the mixture so that the sticky spot is completely covered.  If you have sensitive skin, you may want to wear gloves to do this as baking soda can dry out your hands. You can also use a dry cloth instead of your hands to rub in the mixture. This allows the baking soda and oil to soften the glue so it won’t be as tough to remove. The longer you leave the mixture on, the more easily the glue will come off. Set a kitchen timer or use the clock app on your phone to keep track of the time. If you have a standard kitchen sponge, use the more abrasive side. You need something rougher to pull up the glue residue. Continue rubbing vigorously until all of the glue is removed.  For a little extra scrubbing power, you can use steel wool instead of a scouring pad. If the glue isn’t coming off, apply more baking soda and oil, then let it sit for another 30 minutes before trying to remove it again. This will get rid of any leftover tacky residue or oil. Wipe down the plastic with soap using a damp cloth, then rinse it until it’s no longer sticky or greasy.  Dish soap will work well because it’s designed to cut through grease. Dry off the plastic with a clean cloth or let it air dry once you’ve rinsed it thoroughly.


Combine 1 part level 10 peroxide with 1 part light ash blonde hair color. Separate your hair into 4 sections. Apply the mixture to 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) sections, starting at the ends. Read the box of dye to determine how long to wait. Wash out the color and dry your hair thoroughly.

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Similar to how you mixed the peroxide and bleach, you'll want to combine 1 part level 10 peroxide with 1 part of your chosen ash blonde color in a bowl. Mix them together with a whisk or spoon so that there are no lumps, creating a semi-thick consistency.  You can buy level 10 peroxide and ash blonde hair color at a big-box store, beauty supply store, or online. This can be done right after you've dried your hair from the bleach, or you can wait a couple of days to prevent damage to your hair. Part your hair down the middle from forehead to nape, then across from ear to ear. Use clips to secure 3 sections out of the way, and begin with the remaining section. Once you finish the first section, move on to the next. Use an applicator brush to apply the color to the ends of your hair first. Always apply the color to your roots last. Put your hair up in a plastic shower cap once you're finished.  It's essential to work with small sections so each strand of hair gets saturated. Remember to wear gloves to keep your hands dye-free, and keep a towel on your shoulders to protect your clothes whenever applying a mixture to your hair. For the most accurate information, read your box of hair dye to find out how long to leave the dye in your hair before rinsing it out. This should be clearly labeled on the instructions. Once you've waited the appropriate amount of time described on the box of hair color, you can take off the cap and rinse out your hair using cool or lukewarm water. Wash your hair to remove all of the excess dye, and dry your hair thoroughly afterwards.


Combine 1⁄2  c (120 mL) of black glitter glue with 1⁄2  c (120 mL) of water. Play with the slime, then store it in an airtight container.

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Empty a bottle of black glitter glue into a bowl. Fill the bottle with water, then pour the water into the bowl as well. Stir the two together with a spoon until the texture is consistent.  Most bottles of glue contain about 4 ounces (120 mL). If yours doesn't, measure the glue and water out with a measuring up. If you can't find black glitter glue, try purple glitter glue instead. Alternatively, mix 1⁄2  c (120 mL) of clear school glue with about 1/4 cup (25 g) of glitter and 2 to 3 drops of food coloring. Use school glitter glue, which comes in bigger bottles; don't use the tiny tubes of craft glitter glue. As you continue to knead, squish, and play with the slime, the different colors will swirl together, like a galaxy! Once you are done playing with the slime, put it into an airtight container, such as a plastic, zippered bag or a plastic container.  The slime should last at least 1 week, but it can last longer. Eventually, all the colors will blend together to create a single color. For example, black, blue, and purple will make dark purple.


Combine 2  fl oz (59 mL) of mezcal in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Add the lime juice and agave syrup to the shaker. Shake the mixture for 10-30 seconds. Strain the mixture into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lime wheel and serve with tacos and guacamole.

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The stainless steel cocktail shaker should be filled ½ to ¾ of the way full with ice. This will help cool all of the ingredients before you serve your drink. There is no need to shake the mezcal and ice together yet. Put 1  fl oz (30 mL) of lime juice and 1⁄2  fl oz (15 mL) of agave syrup into the shaker with the mezcal. The lime juice and agave are used to enhance the smokiness of the mezcal and add a little sweetness to an otherwise dry cocktail.  You can make agave syrup by dissolving light agave in an equal amount of hot or boiling water. If you don’t have a cocktail shaker, use a mason jar or a bottle with a screw-on lid. Place the cap of the shaker on tightly and shake the mixture vigorously. You want the ingredients to mix thoroughly and allow the ice to completely cool the liquids. Your cocktail is ready once a light frost has formed on the outside of the shaker. The cocktail shaker has a built-in strainer in the lid. Hold the edges of the top down, and flip the shaker upside down to strain the cocktail into a glass. Any cocktail glass will work for this dry margarita.  You can serve this cocktail straight up or on the rocks, whichever your prefer. This is a great drink to try if you are new to the world of mezcal. It allows you to experience its earthy and subtle tones in a familiar environment. The flavors of your mezcal margarita go great with beef, fish, or carne asada tacos. Try adding some guacamole to enhance the spice and lime flavorings in the mezcal. You should try seasonings that have black pepper, chile, or lime in it to compliment your cocktail.


Combine Kohl’s Cash with discounts. Return purchases if needed. Use your Kohl’s Cash before it expires.

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Kohl’s Cash isn't actually cash, but it isn't as restricted as many coupons are, either. This means that you can typically use it in combination with sales, coupons, and other discounts that are available. Reap the savings!  However, certain brands or items may be excluded for various reasons. Check with Kohl’s customer service if you ever have a question about what the final price of an item will be. Kohl’s Cash will be applied first to your order, before any other discounts. For instance, imagine you are shopping during a promotion to get 10% off your total purchase. If your initial total is $70 and you have $10 in Kohl’s Cash, your final total will be $54 ($70-$10 = $60; 10% x $60 = $6; $60-$6 = $54). You are allowed to return purchases made using Kohl’s Cash. You will be refunded the cost you paid for the returned item (that is, the store price minus any discounts you received), and given a new Kohl’s Cash certificate that must be used within 30 days.  You can also return purchases you made that earned Kohl’s Cash. However, your Kohl’s Cash balance will be reduced by a corresponding amount. If you return an item you purchased that earned Kohl’s Cash, and you have already used the Kohl’s Cash, then the refund you receive for the returned item will be reduced by the amount of Kohl’s Cash that you earned and used. For instance, imagine you bought a coffee maker for $65, and you earned $10 in Kohl's Cash. You use that Kohl's Cash on a future purchase of a $32 shirt to bring its cost down to $22. If you decide to return the coffee maker, you will only receive $55 (the original price minus the $10 in Kohl's Cash you already used on the shirt). Kohl’s Cash that you receive as a certificate or electronically will have a stated expiration date. If you don't use the rewards by that date, unfortunately the Kohl’s Cash will no longer be valid.


Combine a 1:1 ratio of white vinegar and water in a spray bottle. Spray the inside and outside of the fireplace with the vinegar solution. Let the mixture sit for 10 minutes. Scrub the bricks from the top down with a scrub brush. Clean your bricks with warm water and remove the drop cloths.

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Combine 1 cup (240 mL) of white vinegar with 1 cup (240 mL) of warm water in a spray bottle. Shake the bottle to make sure they are mixed well. Use a clean spray bottle that has not ever had any harsh chemicals in it. You can buy empty spray bottles at most home goods and hardware stores. Working from the top down, spray your vinegar solution all over the bricks. Pay special attention to areas that have a lot of soot, which could be right around the opening of the fireplace. Make sure you have a drop cloth down to catch any drips. If you have leftover vinegar solution, you can use it as a natural cleaner for bathrooms and countertops. Vinegar is mildly acidic, so it will work to break down the soot and grime stuck onto your bricks. Let the vinegar and water sit on your bricks, but do not let it dry. Don’t let it sit for longer than 10 minutes, or the acidity could start to damage your bricks. Dip your scrub brush in warm water and scrub your bricks. Pay special attention to the grooves in between bricks and any areas that have a lot of soot. Scrub at the bricks until the vinegar smell is no longer there. You can sprinkle baking soda over your bricks to remove the vinegar faster. However, this will cause a foaming reaction on your bricks and could create a mess. Use a soft sponge to quickly spread warm water over all your bricks. Take away any drop cloths or towels you used on the floor around your fireplace. Let your fireplace dry completely before you burn anything in it again.


Combine a hand signal with a verbal command. Walk toward the front door. Respond if your dog follows you. Repeat this until the dog doesn’t follow you. Repeat this until you can fully open the door without your dog moving. Praise your dog and give treats for good behavior. Practice "stay" outdoors.

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“Stay” is the most common command for getting a dog to stay still. However, it’s more powerful when combined with a hand signal. An easy hand signal to remember is putting out your hand as though you’re telling someone to stop.   Practice saying the command and doing the hand signal at the same time. Use a firm, clear tone of voice. Make your signal one clean motion. Act natural, as though you’re about to leave the house. Do anything you would normally do, such as grabbing your keys or hat. Don’t speak to or look at your dog as you go. Even if you’re not looking at him, you’ll likely hear him trailing behind you. As soon as you notice that he is following you, stop and turn to him. Use the same verbal command and hand signal to tell him to stay.  Resist the urge to pet your dog to comfort him at this point. This will encourage him to follow you more. Use the command and hand signal only once and then turn to go again. It may get tedious but continue to turn and repeat the command until your dog stays. You should be able to get all the way to the door without your dog moving from their “stay” position. Once your dog can reliably stay until you get to the door, practice opening the door. You should be able to open the door slowly and step through it without your dog moving.  Be careful when opening the door. Your dog may still get excited and try to run for it. When your dog can reliably stay, you should be able to open the door for several seconds without him running outside. Once you’ve gone out the door and your dog has successfully stayed put, come back inside and give him a treat. You should also pet him and praise him so that he knows how good he’s been.  Don’t give the treats and praise until you’re able to get all the way out the door without him following you. Keep treats hidden until you decide to give them, otherwise they can be a distraction. Now that your dog can reliably stay when you head for the door, you can practice outside. Begin in an enclosed area, such as a fenced yard or dog run. Use the...


Combine a primer and lotion.

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Squirt one nail-sized drop of your favorite primer and one nail-sized drop of your preferred face lotion onto the back of your hand. Use clean fingertips to tub the primer and lotion together so they're combined. Using a primer will help keep your makeup in place and the lotion will keep your skin hydrated for several hours. Look for a lotion that contains minerals which can nourish your face.


Combine a teaspoon of brown sugar and a few drops of water. Rinse your face. Apply the scrub to your face. Rinse away the sugar. Moisturize.

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You only need enough water to slightly moisten the sugar; don't add enough to dissolve it. The blackstrap molasses in the brown sugar helps to exfoliate your face and leave it gleaming and healthy.  Use brown sugar instead of white or powdered sugar for best effect. If you have acne, add a few drops of tea tree oil or lavender oil to the scrub. These have antiseptic properties that help get rid of acne. Make sure your makeup is removed and rinse your face with water, then pat it mostly dry. Keep it a little moist so the scrub will go on more easily. Scrub your face in gentle, wide, circular upstrokes to exfoliate the dead skin.  Keep gently scrubbing your face until the sugar has dissolved. If you wish, you can leave the scrub on your face for a few minutes to use it as a mask as well. Use warm water and make sure you rinse it out of the corners of your eyes and other hard-to-reach areas, so your face doesn't remain sticky. Pat your face dry with a towel. Apply moisturizer all over your face to help hydrate your skin, since using a scrub can be drying.