Drain and rinse the seeds. Return the seeds to the jar. Rinse and drain the seeds every 6 to 8 hours for up to 4 days. Move the sprouts to indirect sunlight after 3 to 4 days. Continue rinsing every 6 to 8 hours for another 1 to 2 days.

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Once the seeds have been soaking for about 8 hours, remove the cheesecloth and transfer the seeds to a fine-mesh colander. Turn on the water and rinse the seeds for about a minute to remove any dirt or plant matter.  If you're using a sprouting cap with a built-in screen, simply drain the water by slowly turning the jar upside down. Pour in some fresh water, swirl the water and seeds around in the jar, and then pour out the water again. After you drain the water, place the jar upside down at a 45-degree angle for 30 minutes so that all of the water in the jar drains out. Use a clean spoon to transfer the rinsed seeds back to the sprouting jar. Replace the cheesecloth and secure it in place with the elastic. Place the seeds back in the same warm, dark location that you used for soaking them. Over the next 3 to 4 days, the seeds will germinate and begin to sprout. It's important to continue rinsing and draining them frequently during this process. Regular rinsing will prevent the growth of mold and bacteria that could cause food poisoning. As the sprouts grow, they will develop root hairs, which look fuzzy and are sometimes mistaken for mold. Root hairs help the sprouts absorb water, and they are completely normal. After rinsing, you won't even see them. When the sprouts are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) long and have grown yellow leaves, move them to a bright location to encourage chlorophyll growth. This will turn the leaves from yellow to green, and increase the amount of nutrients in the sprouts. A room temperature location, such as a kitchen counter, is an ideal place for this greening process. Don't put the sprouts in direct sunlight, otherwise they will burn. The sprouts are still susceptible to mold at this point, so you have to keep rinsing every 6 to 8 hours as the sprouts green. Once the leaves on the sprouts turn dark green in a day or 2, the sprouts are ready to eat.


Drain any standing water. Trim your weeds. Clear away debris. Turn off outside lighting. Keep pet food inside the house. Kill the insects on your property. Set up fencing.

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Frogs are attracted to moisture, so removing sources of water from your yard will cause most frogs to lose interest and find another place to lay their eggs and shelter at night. You can rent a pump to get rid of most water sources.  Birdbaths, swampy areas, bowls of water, and artificial ponds are just a few examples of water sources that attract frogs.     Removing sources of stagnant water will also drive away mosquitoes and other insects that frogs feed on, making the area even less appealing. If the water source in your yard is something you want to keep, like a natural pond, try adding a filter or running fountain to your pond. This will cause the water to circulate, thereby eliminating most mosquitoes and other insects. The frogs will still be attracted to the water, but with a decrease in food supply, many may still end up moving on. Tall grass, shrubs, or other bushy plants make the perfect hiding place for frogs. Clearing these elements away forces the frogs to be exposed, which is a condition they generally try to avoid. Having tall plants around a water source is especially troublesome. If you want to maintain tall or bushy plants somewhere in your yard, position them as far away from any water source as possible. Like tall grass, clutter in your yard serves as an excellent hiding place for frogs. Removing it will chase many frogs away. Remove empty pots, old lumber, piles of wood chips, or any other structure that may create a damp, dark place for frogs to hide. Light attracts insects, and insects attract frogs. Turning off your outdoor lights at night will reduce both insect and frog populations.  Shut off garden lights and porch lights. Close the drapes and curtains in your house to reduce the amount of light filtering out from inside. While somewhat uncommon, frogs do occasionally steal dog food or cat food. Feed your pets inside or keep the dish inside when the dog or cat is not eating. Since flies, mosquitoes, and other insects are the primary food source for frogs, killing the bugs will...


Drain half of the water from the pool. Shut off the pump and refill the pool with fresh water. Use a kit to test the water’s chemical levels. Avoid adding chlorine if the cyanuric acid level is above 70 ppm. Fill a floating container with chlorine tablets and place it in the water.

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Change the pump’s settings to reverse so the water pumps out. If you don’t have a pre-installed pump, rent or purchase a vacuum pump from a pool supply store. Put the inlet hose in the water, then put the outlet hose near a container or drain. This takes out a lot of salt and makes the chemical levels a little easier to balance later. You can also try opening the pool’s drain if it has one or taking apart the pool until you can turn over the liner. Hook up a garden hose to a nearby water spout and use it to replace the water. Continue filling the pool until the water level is about ⅓ of the way up the skimmer, which is the rectangular opening near the pipes. Depending on the size of your pool, this can take a few hours. Testing strips are the most common option sold by pool supply stores. Scoop some water out of the pool with a cup, then hold the strip in the sample for about 15 seconds. The strip will change colors to indicate the levels of several chemicals within the water.  Compare the strip’s colors to the chart included with the test kit. Liquid test kits are also available. You squeeze a droplet of dye into the sample, which changes color depending on the chemical it detects. Digital water testers are also available. For these, you dip the end of the device into the sample. Activate the device to get the test results. A normal cyanuric acid reading is between 20 and 30 ppm. If yours is around 70 ppm or higher, wait 2 or 3 days before testing the pool again.  Most chlorine tablets include cyanuric acid, so adding them now could end up damaging the pool by making the water too acidic. Acid eats away at the pipes and pool liner. The pH and other chemicals should still be at safe levels. If you are concerned about them, keep everyone out of the pool until you finish converting it. Purchase chlorine tablets from a pool supply store along with a plastic floating container. Once the pool’s acid level is around 30 ppm or lower, add the tablets to the container according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Push...


Drain the coolant from the radiator. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the engine. Remove the thermostat after disconnecting the thermostat housing from the engine. Submerge the thermostat in a pot of water so it doesn’t touch the bottom. Heat the water until it reaches about 195–220 °F (91–104 °C). Take the thermostat out of the pot to see if it’s opened.

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Crawl underneath the front of your vehicle so you’re below the radiator. Look for the drain plug (the white or black plastic wingnut) near the bottom corner or side of the radiator tank. Place a bucket underneath the drain plug so the coolant doesn’t spill when you drain the radiator. Unscrew the drain plug and let the coolant flow into the bucket until your radiator is empty. Screw the drain plug back onto the tank when you’re finished.  Vehicle coolant can be toxic, so keep it away from children or pets. Don’t drain the coolant unless your vehicle and engine are completely cool or else it could be extremely hot and cause burns. If your radiator doesn’t have a drain plug, use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp around the lower radiator hose before pulling it out of place. Then, drain the coolant from the lower hose into the bucket. The thick black hose runs from the side of your radiator and attaches to the top or side of your engine block with a tube clamp. Use a screwdriver to loosen the nut on the tube clamp and then pull the hose off of the engine. Set the end of the hose aside for now so you can access the thermostat housing on your engine. Place a shop cloth or rag in the end of the hose to prevent dirt or debris from getting inside it. The thermostat housing is the blocky metal piece connected to your engine block that the hose was attached to. Use a socket wrench to loosen the bolts holding the housing in place, and set them aside so you don’t lose them. Pull the housing off of the engine to expose the thermostat, which looks like a small metal cylinder with a spring and 2 metal rings around it. Grab the end of the thermostat and pull it out.  If it’s difficult to grab the thermostat by hand, use a pair of needle-nose pliers or a screwdriver to pry it out. The bolts for your thermostat housing may be different lengths. Make note of where each bolt went inside the housing so you can reattach it correctly later. Use a pot that’s deep enough to completely submerge the thermostat in water. Fill the pot...


Drain the curds. Cut the curds and let them rest. Flip and restack periodically for 2 hours. Slice the curd. Toss the curds with salt. Enjoy the finished curds.

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Scoop out the curds using a slotted ladle and place them into a colander. Set the colander over the pot and allow the whey to drain.  To make gathering the curds easier, use your hands or the back of the ladle to press the curds into the bottom of the pot. After they form a solid mass, scoop out the mass and place it in the colander. The colander should rest above the whey and not inside of it. Place a thermometer into the curd, then cover the pot and allow it to rest for 10 to 15 minutes at 98 degrees Fahrenheit (37 degrees Celsius). When ready, the curds should mat and clump together into a solid mass. Remove the curds from the colander and cut the slab in half. Stack the two halves together, cover, and let them sit for 10 to 15 minutes.  You may wish to return the cut, stacked slabs to the colander to keep them warm. Otherwise, place a bag of warm water measuring 98 degrees Fahrenheit (37 degrees Celsius) on top of the stack slabs to keep them adequately warm. Flip the stacked curd slabs over every 10 to 15 minutes over a 2-hour period of time. Check the texture of the curd after the first 90 minutes. When the curd is ready, it should tear apart like cooked chicken breast. Place the curd onto a cutting board and cut it into 2-inch (5-cm) pieces.  Note that the slabs should be flattened to about 1 inch (2.5 cm) by this stage. Cut the curds into 1-inch (2.5-cm) strips, then cut the strips crosswise into 2-inch (5-cm) long pieces. Sprinkle the curds with the salt, then toss gently with your hands or a spoon until all of the salt is dissolved.  Cover the salted curds and allow them to sit for 5 to 10 minutes. During this time, the curds should absorb the salt. More whey may drain away during this step, too. It might be a good idea to let the salted curds sit in your colander for that reason. Once the curds absorb all of the salt, they should be ready to enjoy. The fresh curds will create a satisfying "squeak" against your teeth when you bite into them.  To store the curds, place them in a resealable plastic...


Drain the pineapple, but reserve the juice. Place the cubed pork in your slow cooker, along with the green bell pepper and sliced onion. In a bowl, combine the brown sugar, cornstarch, pineapple juice (add water to make 3/4 cup if necessary), vinegar, water, soy sauce, and salt. Prepare rice or another side to join with your pork.

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The pineapple juice is an integral part of the sweet, tanginess of the dish. But don't throw out the pineapple! Refrigerate the chunks until you need to pull them back out. Which will be shortly! Other veggies are welcome, but know that potatoes and carrots take a bit longer to cook through than most other veggies. Mix it together until smooth and pour over the contents in your crockpot. Cover and cook on the low setting for 8 hours. Add the pineapple chunks about 45 minutes before the end of the cooking time. Stir and get ready to serve! The sweet and sour pork will be great by itself, but it's even better with white or brown rice, egg noodles or quinoa. It just takes 15 minutes or so with some boiled water and you're set!


Drain water away from your house. Clean and fix gutters. Install plastic sheets in crawl spaces.

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Water can also get into your house from outside, and preventing this will protect your house from excess moisture inside. Along with fixing leaks in the roof and elsewhere in the house, you can also get rid of water by making sure that water is drawn away from your house.  One way to do this is by installing extra gutters if necessary to direct rainwater away from your home. If you have trouble with groundwater coming in, consider installing vapor barriers in the basement and a sump pump system that will collect water. Gutters are an integral part of the system that keeps water away from your house, so it’s important to keep them clean and well maintained. Clean the gutters every fall and spring to remove dirt, debris, leaves, and other matter. Address leaks in your gutters as soon as you notice them. If you can't repair the leak, replace the section of damaged gutter. A crawl space that has a dirt floor is susceptible to mold, because moisture coming up from the ground can make the area wet all the time. To prevent this, dry out the area with fans, and then cover the dirt with a sheet of plastic. Covering the dirt won’t necessarily prevent moisture from coming up, but it will stop mold from growing in the crawl space itself.


Dramatic Play:

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This is a center that should change at least monthly and should be based on the monthly or weekly theme.  For instance, it can be a puppet theater while learning about fairy tales, an airport with luggage and passports for Around the World, or a post office to learn  addresses. This may include costumes, makeup and props. Try to limit makeup, if you have any, as there is no need to instill this lesson so young.


Drape fabric around your shoulders. Measure around your chest and shoulders. Cut your elastic pieces. Cut out your fabric.

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Next, you will need to determine how wide and how long to cut the shoulder piece. Drape the fabric around your shoulders and mark it to indicate the width and length of the piece. This piece will need to be wide enough to easily wrap around your shoulders and long enough to extend down from the center of your chest to about the middle of your abdomen.  If you want the piece to be slightly ruffled, then it will need to be about 1 and ½ times the width of your shoulders. For example, if your shoulder measurement is 30” (76.2 cm) then your shoulder piece will need to be about 45” (114.3 cm) wide. You can also increase the ruffling by doubling or even tripling your measurement if desired. Make sure that the shoulder piece will be long enough to cover your chest without extending down too far. Add a 2” (5 cm) seam allowance to the width and length as well. Next, you will need to measure around the center of your chest to determine the length of your elastic. Wrap the measuring tape so that it goes under your armpits and around your chest. Record this measurement. Then, wrap the measuring tape around your shoulders just above the line around your armpits and record this measurement as well. Add 2” (5 cm) to each measurement to provide seam allowance. Use the measurements you took to cut out your two pieces of elastic. One piece will go around your chest and the other will go around your shoulders. Make sure to add a 1” (2.5 cm) seam allowance to each piece. Use the markings on your dress and shoulder fabric pieces to cut them out. Remember to include the 2” (5 cm) seam allowances for both pieces. The shoulder piece should look like a long wide strip of fabric.


Drape the ascot around your neck and inside your collar. Pull one end about six inches lower than the other. Cross the long end over and in front of the short end. Tuck the long end up and under the short end at the base of the neck. Pull the long end all the way through and straighten it out. Reposition the ascot so that the long end is directly on top of the short end. Clean up the fold. Tuck both ends of the ascot into your waistcoat.

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Make sure the ascot is on the inside of your collar directly touching your skin. The two open ends should be resting on your chest.  Some ascots come with a pre-sewn loop on one side. If you are using an ascot with a loop, simply thread the long end of the ascot through the loop and skip to Step 4.     If you are wearing a button-up shirt, you will need to unbutton at least the top button.     If you want a tighter, more secure knot, wrap the long end around the short end a second time. Be sure not to make the folds too tight.  The ascot should be positioned straight in the center of your chest just like a normal tie.  The two ends should now be about the same length.     If you are using an ascot with a pre-sewn loop, your ascot will only have one tail down your chest.    Use your fingers to straighten and smooth the fold that you created at the base of your neck. Add a safety pin or decorative pin to the middle of the knot in the ascot if you want the knot to be extra secure.    If you are not wearing a waistcoat, you should tuck the ascot into whatever V-shaped neck of clothing you are wearing on your torso, such as a blazer. The focus of an ascot is the bib that forms around the neck, so just make sure that this part is exposed.


Drape the ribbon horizontally across the top of the box. Pull the rest of the ribbon under the box and back to the front. Cross the ribbons across the front of the box. Wrap the ribbon around the back of the box and back to the front. Measure the ribbon against the first piece and cut it. Wrap the ribbon under the twisted part. Tie the ribbon into a bow. Adjust the bow, then trim off the excess ribbon.

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Leave about 4 to 8 inches (10.16 to 20.32 centimeters) hanging off the side for the tail of the bow. Do not cut the ribbon yet. It is better to leave more ribbon hanging off the side than too little. You can always cut it shorter later. Do not flip the box over, or you may lose your place. Instead, lift the box up and bring the rest of the ribbon behind it. Set the box back down once the ribbon comes out the other side. Bring the ribbon towards the middle of the box, then bring the shorter end to meet it. Twist the ribbons around each other so that they are oriented vertically. If your ribbon has a right and wrong side, you may have to twist it twice so that you don't see the wrong side of the ribbon. Lift the box up again. Pull the longer part of the ribbon behind the box and out the other side. Set the box down again. Place your thumb against the twisted part to keep it secure as you wrap the ribbon around the back. Bring your ribbon back towards the middle of the box. Measure it against the end of the ribbon from the beginning and cut it. Pull the ribbon across the front of the twisted part at an angle. Bring it under the twisted part, and back out the way you started. Pull on both ends of the ribbon to tighten the knot. Fold both end of the ribbon into loops. Cross the left loop over the right one to make a smaller loop in the middle. Pull the left loop through that smaller loop, then pull to tighten. Take a moment to adjust the loops and the tails. If you used a wired ribbon, you can fluff the loops up as well. For a fancier touch, cut the ends of the tails into angles or Vs.


Drape the tie around your neck. Tighten the knot.

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With your collar up and your shirt fully buttoned, place the tie around your shoulders. Hang the wider end of the tie on your right side, with the narrow end about 12 inches (30 cm) higher on the left. Hold the narrow end and slide the front knot up to tighten the tie. Make sure your tie is straight and the length is appropriate, ideally ending at the top of your belt buckle.  Squeeze the sides of the knot gently to create a dimple just below it.


Draw Look through old pictures. Google your family tree. Listen to music Finish any home projects you haven't done yet. Find stacks of paper. Catch up on schoolwork. Start planning what you're going to do when you're better! Write out your dreams.

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. Even if you're not good at drawing, it can be fun to mess around. They may bring back good, old memories when you're laying in bed sick. Find long lost ancestors. . Don't put it too loud, though; it's not good for you, especially when you're sick. Learn every word to your favorite song. Google the lyrics and sing it a few times. Now would be a good time to sort your trading cards or track down your missing slipper. However, you are sick so don't overexert yourself. Make paper airplanes or other origami figures. It may not be wonderful, but you'll be happy when you get to school and find you aren't behind.  Draw or write out your dream house. Add little details like carpet patterns, or colors. Draw or write out the theme or plot of your favorite book or movie. You could draw a picture from your favorite scene in Harry Potter, or write out what you would do in the character's situation. List ideal features in your dream pet or boyfriend/girlfriend/husband/wife. Describe your dream outfit or job. Make a collage with all of your dream pictures and/or lists and paragraphs, to make up your dream life.


Draw a 13 cm (5.1 in) long arrow on a piece of cardboard and cut it out. Trace the circumference of a can and cut around the circle. Poke a pencil-sized hole in the middle of your cardboard circle. Write the 4 primary and 4 intermediate directions on your circle. Push the eraser end of an unsharpened pencil through the circle. Roll a small piece of clay into a ball, then push it onto the eraser. Add sand or gravel to your can to keep it in place. Put the clay ball on the sand or gravel, then lower the circle onto the can. Tape a pen cap to your arrow and slide the cap over the pencil's eraser. Bring your wind vane outside to find the direction of the wind.

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Do your best to make the arrow as even as possible, but don’t worry about making it perfect. Make 1 side of the arrow a triangle point and the other side a square. Draw the square bigger than the triangle. Then, use your scissors to cut the arrow out. Use colorful or painted cardboard if you want your wind vane to look nice. Put a coffee or soup can down on top of your cardboard, then use a pencil to trace around the rim. Next, cut outside the line of the circle so that the cardboard piece is larger than the rim of the can. Any medium, large, or extra large can will work for this project. However, a coffee or soup can will be easiest to use because they're big enough and are open at the top. Use your scissors to carefully poke a pencil-sized hole in the middle of your cardboard circle. It’s okay if the hole is a little smaller than the pencil, as it will widen when you push the pencil through it. Be careful as you do this because it's easy to slip and cut yourself. It's best to ask an adult to help you make the hole. Start with North (N) at the top of the circle. Moving clockwise, write East (E) on the right side of the circle, South (S) at the bottom of the circle, and West (W) on the left of the circle. Then, go back and write Northeast (NE) exactly halfway between North and East, Southeast (SE) halfway between East and South, Southwest (SW) halfway between South and West, and Northwest (NW) halfway between North and West. To make things easier, abbreviate the directions by using their initials. Insert the end of the eraser through the hole in the cardboard, then push the pencil down through the hole. Go slowly so that the hole in the cardboard doesn’t widen too much. Use your hands to mold the clay into a ball. Next, press the eraser into the clay ball. Mold the clay around the eraser so it stays in place. The clay will act like a weight that holds the pencil upright while you’re using your wind vane. Add enough sand or gravel to fill up about half of the can. This will make the can sturdy so it stays in...


Draw a Chance card if you land on a Chance space. Move your token to the space indicated if you draw a "Go To" or "Take a Ride" card. Place one of your Ticket Booths on an Amusement if you draw a Free Ticket Booth card.

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If you land on Chance, draw the top card from the Chance pile and follow its instructions. Then, place the Chance card face up on the discard pile. Once all the Chance cards have been played, turn the discard pile over and start again. (You may want to shuffle the cards first.) Follow the instructions for the space you land on as if you had landed on it from a roll of the die. If you land on or pass Go, collect $2 from the Bank. Keep your token on its present space, and follow the instructions for placing Ticket Booths. The instructions for placing Ticket Booths include:  If either of the Amusements of the color indicated on the card is unoccupied, put your Ticket Booth on that Amusement. If both are unoccupied, choose the Amusement you want to place your Ticket Booth on. If both Amusements are occupied by Ticket Booths of different colors, replace the Ticket Booth on the Amusement of your choice with your own. Return the displaced Ticket Booth to its owner. If both Amusements are occupied by Ticket Booths of the same color, they cannot be replaced. Discard the Chance card and draw another, following its instructions.


Draw a basic cloud shape on thick cardboard. Cut the cloud shape out of the cardboard. Trace around the cloud template on thick white card stock. Cut out each white cloud shape carefully. Add a thin stripe of hot glue down the center of one cloud. Place a length of fishing line directly into the glue. Fold another cloud shape right down the center. Place the folded edge into the hot glue. Hang the cloud by the string. Make multiple clouds. Glue the strings around the inside edge of an embroidery hoop (optional).

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Use a pencil or marker to draw a simple cloud shape onto thick cardboard. This will serve as your template. Draw the cloud the same size you want the finished product to be. If you need a little guidance for sketching the cloud, run a Google image search using the search term "cloud shape." Tons of options will come up for you to choose from! Use sharp scissors or an X-ACTO knife to cut along the lines you drew. Cut your cloud template out completely. Discard the excess cardboard. Pick a heavy stock so your 3D clouds are fairly durable. Trace around the cloud template on two sheets of the heavy white stock. Use a pencil and sketch lightly so you won't leave any dark marks on your white paper. Use scissors or an X-ACTO knife to cut out the cloud shapes. Cut just inside the drawn line so that your shapes won't have any visible pencil marks around the edges. Lightly erase any pencil marks that accidentally make it onto the final shapes. Be careful not to bend the edges of the paper as you do so! Heat up your hot glue gun. Place one cloud shape on the table in front of you. Then, draw a thin line of hot glue directly down the center of one of the cloud shapes. Cut a piece of fishing line at the length you want to hang your 3D cloud. It can be as long or as short as you like. Anywhere from 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) would work great. Place the line vertically, directly into the line of glue.  There should be no fishing line dangling under the cloud; it should only extend from the top. You will use this to hang the cloud. Make sure you're using fishing line, which is transparent. That way, when you hang the cloud, it will look like it's floating in the air. Avoid fishing wire. Set the glued cloud aside for a moment. Take another white cloud shape and fold it in half horizontally. The crease should appear in the same place as the glue stripe on the first cloud -- right down the middle. Once folded, line up the creased edge of the second cloud with the stripe of glue on your first cloud. Press the edge into the...


Draw a bold line to connect the outer shapes of Spiderman's body. Add small curves on the chest and upper legs to represent muscles. Draw the knuckles of each clenched fist. Sketch a Spiderman logo in the center of his chest. Outline the red parts of Spiderman's outfit. Draw webbing on the chest, boots, and forearms. Erase unnecessary guidelines and color in Spiderman if you like. Finished.

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Take a darker graphite pencil and use it to draw from the neckline, across the shoulder, and down the outer edges of the arm. Then, draw the outline of the torso and down the outside of the legs. Draw over your feet outlines and up along the inner legs. Make this bold line smooth as you connect the outline shapes. To highlight Spiderman's muscular build, draw a horizontal line near the bottom of the chest oval. Make the line curve down in the middle on each side of the chest. Then, draw a short straight line near each inner thigh. Angle them towards the knee so they look like bulging muscles. If you'd like to draw more muscles, sketch a few short horizontal lines that curve up toward Spiderman's abdomen. To draw Spiderman's right hand, draw the outline of his thumb so it's close to his torso. Then, draw just a few knuckles since all of them aren't visible from your perspective. To draw his left hand, make his thumb close to the torso and draw 2 or 3 knuckles along the clenched hand. Make the logo as detailed or simplistic as you like. Start by making a small diamond in the middle of the chest. Then, draw a slightly smaller diamond above the first diamond so the bottom overlaps. Shade in the diamonds and draw 4 short lines that extend up from the center of the 2 diamonds. Make 4 short lines that point down from the center of the diamonds. If your Spiderman drawing is small, keep the logo tiny and don't worry about drawing all of the details. Draw a horizontal line on each calf to create the boots, which will be red, and make a horizontal line that curves up on each forearm to indicate gloves, which will also be red. Draw a horizontal line below each shoulder towards the chest. Make each line curve down to the waist. Each of these lines creates a narrow segment that runs down the torso. Then, draw a horizontal line along the waist to separate the torso from the lower half of the outfit. Make the long segments on the side of the torso as wide or narrow as you like. Draw vertical lines through each of the...


Draw a box in the top left corner of your paper, which should lay horizontally. Leave 1 inch of space to the right of the box, and then drawn an identical box in the middle of the page (3 inches square). Measure another inch to the right of the middle box, and complete the top row by drawing a third box of identical dimensions (3 inches square). Draw arrows to the right in the 1 inch spaces between the boxes, aiming from left to right. Number the left box “1,” the middle box “2,” and the far right box “3. Move to the bottom of the page and repeat drawing three 3” x 3” boxes along the bottom of the page with 1-inch gaps in between them. Draw arrows to the left between the boxes, going from right to left. Number the right box “4,” the middle box “5,” and the left box “6. Draw an arrow vertically downward from box 3 to box 4. Fill the boxes with information pertaining to a sequence of events or timeline.

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Use a ruler to help you draw straight lines, and make each box about 3 inches square. This leaves room to write inside the box. Use your ruler to help you measure the correct side lengths of the box. There should now be a row along the top of your paper taken up with three 3” x 3” boxes with 1 inch of space between each. You should have an arrow pointing from the left box to the middle box and then from the middle box to the right box. ” Keep the numbers small, as you will write other information in these boxes. Write the numbers in one of the corners of the boxes, such as the top left corner. You can put an additional small box around the numbers to separate them from the text that will be written in them. You should now have almost identical rows of three boxes along the top and bottom of the page, with approximately 2 inches of space between the top and bottom rows. Therefore, you should draw an arrow to the left from the right box to the middle box and then from the middle box to the left box. ” Remember to keep the numbers small so that you leave room to write in the boxes.  Again, you can draw small boxes around the numbers to separate them from the text that will be written inside them. Write the numbers in the same corner that you chose for the top row so that the chart is consistent. The top row should read “1” to “3” from left to right, and the bottom row should read “4” to “6” from right to left. As someone is reading the flow chart, this tells them that their eyes should jump straight down the right side of the page and not diagonally across it. Flow charts are extremely useful for examining a sequence of events and seeing how one thing leads to another.  Plot events in a story, such as the events leading up to the climax How to do something, in the order of “First, you do this...” and “Next, you do that...” Significant events in a war or historical moment, like the major events of the American Revolution that led to its conclusion


Draw a box that is 3 inches square on your paper, which should be laid horizontally. Shift to the right of the box about ½ inch and then down about 2 inches. Measure ½ inch to the left of the first box and then down about 2 inches. Draw a curved arrow to the right from the top box to the right box. Fill the boxes with information about a cycle.

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Set the box about 1-2 inches down from the top of the paper, and place it in the middle of the paper's width (i.e. there should be 4 inches on either side of the box). Use a ruler to help you draw straight, even lines. Use your ruler to measure these distances.  Draw another box of the same dimensions (i.e. 3 inches square) in this new location. This box should sit just to the right and down a bit from the first box, as if it is a step leading up to the first box. Again, draw a third box with 3 square inch dimensions using your ruler. This box should also be just offset from the left side of the first box, also like a step leading up to the first box. Together, the three boxes should resemble a pyramid shape. Then, draw a curved arrow to the left from the right box across to the left one. Finally, draw a curved arrow to the right from the left box back to the top box. The three boxes should now be connected in a “circle” by the three curved arrows between them. All arrows of the circle should point in a clockwise direction. This graphic organizer shows how a process occurs and then repeats over and over, as that is what a cycle does. You can add more boxes to the “circle” if you need them, but the boxes will have to be drawn in smaller dimensions.  Water cycle Human body cycles (e.g. circadian rhythm) Animal migrations Solar system cycles


Draw a card and move to the closest corresponding color. Take shortcuts when possible. Lose a turn if you land on a licorice space. Continue until you reach the end. Make the game easier for younger players. Add complexity for older players.

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At the start of your turn, draw a card and check to see what is on it. Each card will either have one color square, two color squares, or a picture. Each of these cards allows you to do something different on your turn.  One color square: Move your pawn to the first color space on the board that matches the color square on the card you have drawn. Two color squares: Move your pawn to the second color space on the board that matches the color square on the card you have drawn. Picture: Move your pawn forward OR backward to the picture square that matches the picture card you have drawn. There are two shortcuts on the board that will allow you to move ahead faster if you land on one of these special spaces. The two shortcuts are located on Rainbow Trail and Gumdrop Pass.  The shortcut space on Rainbow Trail is orange and the one on Gumdrop Pass is yellow. If you land on one of these spaces, follow the shortcut path upwards to the space above it. You must land on the exact space to use a shortcut. You may not use a shortcut if you are just passing by it. There are three licorice spaces on the board. If you land on one of these spaces, then you lose a turn. Keep in mind that you do not lose a turn if you are just passing by a licorice space. You must land on the exact space to lose a turn. The first player who reaches the multi-colored rainbow space at the end of the board has made it to the candy castle. The player who makes it to the candy castle first wins the game! If you are playing with very young children, then you can use a rule variation that allows players to discard any cards that would send them backwards on the board. If a child draws a card that would send his or her gingerbread pawn backwards instead of forwards, then that child may simply discard the card and draw a new one. If you are playing with older children or adults, then you can use a rule variation that allows players to draw two card per turn and choose which one to use. This variation adds an element of strategy to the game play....


Draw a circle and two perpendicular diameter lines. Make a slightly larger circle centered on the same point as the original. Make an arc across the center of the circle. Repeat for the opposite side. Draw two lines that pass through the corners of the eye. Draw two arcs from the remaining points of intersection between the inner circle and its diameter lines. Using a straightedge draw lines through the corners of the new eye. Connect the corners of the "square" just completed to the intersection of the central cross and the inner circle. Erase the circle, lines, and arcs, leaving the octagon alone.

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Compasses are simple tools used to draw perfect circles. The diameter of the circle of the circle you draw will be the longest diagonal of the octagon - in other words, the distance from one point on the octagon to the point directly across from it. So, a larger circle will produce a larger octagon, and vice versa. Use a compass to draw your circle, and, after doing so, draw two lines that stretch across the diameter of the circle and meet in the center at perpendicular angles. Keeping the point of the compass on the same point, draw a circle with a slightly larger radius setting. For instance, if you originally set the radius to 2 inches (5.08 cm), you might add half an inch (1.27 cm) and draw another circle. For the rest of this process, keep your compass set to this new, slightly larger setting. Place the point of the compass on one of the intersections between the inner circle and its diameter. Use the compass to draw an arc near the center of the circle. You don't need to draw an entire circle - just an arc that stretches from one side of the circle to the other. Place the point of the compass on the intersection between the inner circle and its diameter line opposite the point you just used and draw another arc across the center of the circle. You should be left with an "eye" shape in the middle of the circle. Use a ruler or a straightedge to make these lines. The lines must be long enough to intersect the circle in two points and should be perpendicular to the diameter line they pass through. Next, repeat the previous steps for the other diameter line that forms the central cross. In other words, place the point of the compass at the intersection points between this line and the circle and draw arcs stretching across the center of the circle as before. When this is done, you should have two intersecting "eye" shapes. As before, you'll now want to draw two straight lines through the corners of your new eye shape. The lines should be long enough to intersect the circle and should be perpendicular to the...


Draw a circle on the paper by tracing the protractor. Figure out how many angles/sides you want. Calculate the central angle between lines from the center to adjacent vertices. Use a protractor to draw dots on the circle, at every one of these angle measurements. Join each dot with a straight line. Erase the lines and circle.

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Since a protractor is semi-circle, you need to start with it against one line, marking the middle and each end with dots. Then trace the protractor's edge to make a semi-circle, before turning it around (matching the center and edge dots on the other side) and re-tracing it again.  The total degrees contained in a circle is 360, so you just need to divide 360 by the number of sides which is the same as the number of vertices. This value will be the measurement of the angle between any lines drawn from the center of the circle to each corner of the polygon. For example, if you're drawing a hexagon, this value will be 60 degrees. In other words, you'll want to pick a point to start, and then work your way around the circle, drawing a dot at each successive degree measurement. For example, if you're trying to draw a hexagon, you'll pick a point to draw you first dot; then you'll draw your next dot 60 degrees over from that point, and so on, until you've drawn all six points. You'll want to use a ruler for this, and make sure your lines don't overlap. It's a good idea to draw the lines lightly so that you can erase any mistakes or overlaps. And you've done it! If you want to be sure that your polygon is definitely regular, double-check that all your line segments are the same length as each other.


Draw a circle on your sketch paper. Use a ruler to draw a cross in the middle of the circle. Design the shape of the cartoon character's head.

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It will be helpful to draw a perfect circle using a compass, if one is available to you.  Set the width of your compass to a small or medium-sized circle. Place the point of your compass on the sketch paper, and gently place the pencil tip of the compass down on the paper. Pivot the pencil tip around the stationary point of the compass to draw your circle. It may be helpful to lightly hold onto both “legs” of the compass, as the angle can sometimes widen with the pressure of pivoting and drawing. This will help maintain the size of your circle. The cross splits the circle into four quadrants, which will help you position the eyes for the cartoon. Draw the lines as close to the middle from top-to-bottom and side-to-side as you can. This will help ensure that your eyes are placed evenly and at an equal distance from each other. Around the baseline of the circle, draw the shape of your character's head.  The shape of the character's head will inspire you in the type of eyes you give your character. It will also help you determine whether your character is male or female or maybe even an animal or monster! Drawing the shape of the head will include the chin/jawline, ears, and hairline.


Draw a circle with a curved jaw for your dragon's head. Make 2 more circles of the same size below and to the right of the head. Sketch a curved tube to connect the head with the other circles. Put a curved tube ending in a point coming off of the far right circle for the tail. Add legs to the bottoms of the curves on the body. Draw long hair around the dragon's head and legs. Give your dragon facial features. Erase the circles and other guidelines you drew to clean up your drawing. Add curved lines for scales down the length of your dragon's body. Finished.

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Place a circle near the top left side of your paper, making sure it's not too large or else the rest of the dragon won't fit on the page. Connect a small curved trapezoid shape to the left side of the circle to create a rough outline for dragon's snout. Use a compass or trace around a circular object if you want to draw the circle perfectly. Position the first circle below the head so there's a small gap between them. This first circle will be where you place the front pair of legs. Place the second circle to the right of the circle you just drew so it's the same distance away as the head's diameter. Make sure the center of the right circle lines up with the top of the first circle you drew this step.  You don't have to draw perfect circles for the body, but you can use a compass or circular object if you want. Place the second circle further away from the first one if you want your dragon to have a long body. Start a line at the top of the head and make an S-shaped curve down toward the top of the first circle. Continue curving the line until it intersects with the top edge of the second circle. Repeat the process starting at the bottom of the head and making your curved line to the left side of the first circle. Keep extending the line until you reach the bottom of the second circle. Chinese dragons have bodies similar to snakes, so look at pictures of how a snake curves its body for references. Start from the top of the far right circle and make another S-shaped curve going toward the right side of the page so it's the same length as the head to the first circle. Then make a second line from the bottom of the circle and follow the same shape as your first line. Taper the end of the tail until it comes to a point at the end. Your dragon will now look like a long snake. You can make the tail as long as you want. Draw a straight tube coming out from the center of the circle at the front of the dragon's body that's as long as the circle's diameter and about one-quarter as thick. Extend the tube down past the...


Draw a circle with a light color of paint. Spread more paint to outline the curved shape of the petals. Color in the outer curves with a darker shade of paint. Paint over the outer part of the remaining petals with darker paint. Apply white paint to the outer edge of each petal. Draw a swirl in the center of the rose. Let the paint dry for 30 minutes when you're done painting. Wash the rose with the original color shade if desired.

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Load a flat, mid-sized paintbrush with paint in a light shade of your main color. Apply the paint to paper, creating a basic circle. It doesn't have to be even and may, in fact, look like a lumpy cloud. For example, use a very light pink if you wish to make a pink rose. The light shade will provide a base, but you will end up painting over most of it with darker shades. Dip the flat brush back in the light shade of paint, then use it to finish your basic outline. In particular, try to outline where you plan on placing the petals. For instance, make shorter, pronounced U-shaped curves along one side of the circle's upper edge. Progress into longer, shallower lumps along the opposite lower edge. Another way to do this is by pencil. If you're good at sketching, forgo the paint circle and draw the petals. Then, follow up with a light coat of paint to give them definition. Use either the medium flat brush or switch to a smaller pointed brush. Load about half of the brush with a darker shade of the rose's primary color, then use it to fill in some of the outline. The best place to add the darker shade is along the inner edges of the petals. This creates the appearance of shadows on the petals.  Apply the darker paint in curves along the petal lumps in your outline. Try placing tighter curves along the rose's upper edge and looser curves along the lower edge. Try placing each curve of dark paint at a slightly different level so their tails do not connect. You will be able to see the basic outline of each petal forming from the contrasting shades. Paint the inner part the same way you did the outer part using the same brush as before. Apply the darker shade of paint in rough U-shaped curves to delineate each petal. Gradually fill in the unpainted space between the petals.  As a general rule, fill ⅔ of the rose with short curves similar to the uppermost ones. Fill in the remaining ⅓ with longer curves like the lower ones. Note that the curves need to gradually become tighter as you get nearer to the center of the...


Draw a circle. Sketch a chord between two points. Draw a second chord. Make another line between A and C. Join B and D. Find the center.

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Use a compass, or trace any circular object. The size of the circle does not matter. If you're finding the center of an existing circle, then you don't need to draw a new circle. A geometry compass is a tool specifically designed to draw and measure circles. Buy one in a school or office supply store! A chord is a straight line segment that links any two points along the edge of a curve. Name the chord AB. Consider using a pencil to sketch your lines. This way, you can erase the marks once you've found the center. Draw with a light touch so that it'll be easier to erase. This line should be parallel and equal in length to the first chord that you drew. Name this new chord CD. This third chord (AC) should stretch through the center of the circle – but you will need to draw one more line to find the exact center point. Draw one final chord (BD) across the circle between Point B and Point D. This new line should cross over the third chord (AC) that you drew. If you have drawn straight and accurate lines, then the center of the circle lies at the intersection of the crossed lines AC and BD. Mark the center point with a pen or pencil. If you only want the center point marked, then erase the four chords that you drew.


Draw a coordinate grid with an x- and y-axis. Plot the given coordinates Find vertical and horizontal side lengths by counting the units. Use the distance formula Add the length of each side together to find the polygon’s perimeter.

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A coordinate grid is a graph with an x- and y-axis that you can plot coordinates on. To draw a coordinate grid, get a piece of graph paper or draw your own grid lines on a blank piece of paper using a ruler. Then, draw a horizontal line through the middle for the x-axis and a vertical line down the center for the y-axis. Finally, number the points on each axis, starting with “0” where the x- and y-axis intersect. When you number your grid, the numbers above and to the right of the 0 will be positive, while the numbers below and to the left of the 0 will be negative. on the graph. You should have been given coordinates for each vertex, or angular point, of the polygon you’re trying to find the perimeter of. Each coordinate should look something like “(1,2)." Use the numbers you marked on the coordinate grid to plot each of the coordinates. When you’re finished, connect the points with straight lines to see the shape of the polygon you’re working with. You’ll need to know the length of each side of the polygon to determine its perimeter. For vertical or horizontal sides, simply count how many units there are between the points on each end. Then, write down the number next to that side so you can refer to it later. For example, if you’re trying to find the length of a horizontal side, start at one end and count the number of boxes between that point and the other end. If you counted 6, that would mean the length of that side is 6 units. to find the length of diagonal sides. Unfortunately, you can’t count the units on a grid to find the length of diagonal sides like you can with vertical or horizontal sides. Instead, you’ll need to use the distance formula, which is d=(x2−x1)2+(y2−y1)2{\displaystyle d={\sqrt {(x_{2}-x_{1})^{2}+(y_{2}-y_{1})^{2}}}}. Just plug in the values of the x and y coordinates for the 2 points at the ends of the side you’re trying to find the distance of and solve to find the length.  For example, if you’re trying to find the distance (length) between 2 points with the coordinates (4,7) and...


Draw a crosshatch grid and an X. Write two letters of the alphabet in each space. Put a dot in each space to indicate the right letter. Rewrite your code in a list. Practice writing in it.

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The crosshatch should look like a number sign ("#") or tic-tac-toe board; it will have two horizontal lines crossed by two vertical lines. There should not be any lines on the outside of the crosshatch. The crosshatch grid will have nine spaces while the X grid will have four. Both the crosshatch and the X should be large enough to fit two letters in each space. Fill each box and corner of the grids with two letters from the alphabet. The lines immediately surrounding these letters will form the shape of the symbol for each letter.  Each symbol from the crosshatch grid should be shaped like a closed, two-sided or three-sided rectangle. Each symbol from the X grid should be shaped like a “V”, “<”, “>”, or “^”.  For example, if the letter "A" is in the top left hand corner of the crosshatch, it will be represented by the “_|” shape. If the letter "U" is in the left corner of the X, it will be represented by a “>” shape. The dots are called “pigs,” giving the code its name. The pig indicates which letter in the grid is the letter that corresponds to the written symbol. No dot means the left letter, while a dot means the right one. In a grid where A and B are in the top left hand corner, _| is an A whereas _.| is a B. Once you have assigned letters to boxes and dots, it may help to rewrite your code in a list where you clearly assign each letter to its respective shape. This will be your key. Hold on to this. Share it only with those you are entrusting with your code. Once you have written your code into a new list, destroy the original key with the grids. If someone discovers your key, they can decipher your writing! The best way to memorize your code is to start writing in it. Try writing a letter to your friend or copy a passage out of a newspaper or book. Replace each letter in your sentence with its corresponding symbol.  You may need to reference your key at the beginning. As you continue, you will find that you will start memorizing your code. A good passage to start with is “The quick brown fox jumps over...


Draw a cube. Draw two overlapping triangles on either side of the cube. Connect the sides of each triangle in order to form your roof. Add a large rectangle for the door, and a couple of squares or rectangles for windows. Outline the image and erase overlapping lines. Color it in and you’re done!

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Its lines will serve as the walls of the house. These should be approximately even, but don't worry if they're not quite perfect. Don’t make them taller than the walls, though, or your finished product will look somewhat unrealistic. If you don’t see a house starting to emerge in your drawing, refer to the image here and make it look more like that. Remember, we’re drawing in perspective--so for the door and window(s), add in smaller squares and rectangles inside the initial shapes for better detail. There shouldn’t be too many, but whatever remains should be easy to get rid of. Your house can follow whatever color scheme you'd like; if you're in need of inspiration, step outside for a few minutes and look at houses in your neighborhood.


Draw a dagger on a piece of thick paper or cardstock. Cut out the dagger. Trace the design. Cut out the dagger. Glue the daggers together. Trim the dagger. Press the dagger. Add details. Paint the dagger.

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Use a ruler and pictures of daggers to help you. Make it one continuous piece, and don't make it too thin, as the cut-out pieces will be difficult to line up. Use scissors or a craft knife to cut out the dagger you created. Use the dagger as a template, tracing it onto other sheets of paper. You'll need at least ten sheets, though you may want more for a sturdier design.  To make this process simpler, you can simply print out the same design of a dagger over and over. You can use whatever kind of paper you want for this project, though medium weight is probably best. You can even make a dagger out of book pages. Cut out each dagger with scissors or a craft knife. Align each dagger, and use paper glue to glue them together. Make sure to smooth out each layer so you don't get wrinkles. Add as many layers as you want until you get your desired thickness and sturdiness. Trim up any edges that are sticking out from the dagger. Place the dagger between two parchment paper sheets, and put it under something heavy. Leave it to dry overnight. For instance, you could add layers to the crossguard to make it more pronounced or shapes to the handle to make jewels. Paint the dagger so it looks real. You can add scroll work to the handles and paint the jewels in various colors.


Draw a diagram after reading the problem. Make some observations about your diagram. Work the proof backwards. Make a 2-column grid labeled with statements and reasons. Determine which theorems apply to your proof. Make sure your steps flow in a logical fashion. Write down the conclusion as the last line.

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Sometimes the problem will be provided without an image and you will have to diagram it yourself to visualize the proof. Once you have a rough sketch that matches the givens in a problem, you might need to re-draw the diagram so that you can read everything clearly and the angles are approximately correct.  Make sure to label everything very clearly based on the information provided. The clearer your diagram, the easier it will be to think through the proof. Label right angles and equal lengths. If lines are parallel to each other, mark that down as well. If the problem does not explicitly state two lines are equal, can you prove that they are? Make sure you can prove all of your assumptions.  Write down the relationships between various lines and angles that you can conclude based on your diagram and assumptions. Write down the givens in the problem. In any geometric proof, there is some information that is given by the problem. Writing them down first can help you think through the process needed for the proof. When you are proving something in geometry, you are given some statements about the shapes and angles, then asked to prove why these statements are true. Sometimes the easiest way to do this is to start with the end of the problem.  How does the problem come to that conclusion? Are there a few obvious steps that must be proved to make this work? In order to make a solid proof, you have to make a statement and then give the geometric reason that proves the truth of that statement. Underneath the statement column, you will write a statement such as angle ABC = angle DEF. Under the reason, you will write the proof for this. If it is given, simply write given, otherwise, write the theorem that proves it. There are many individual theorems in geometry that can be used for your proof. There are many properties of triangles, intersecting and parallel lines, and circles that are the basis for these theorems. Determine what geometric shapes you are working with and find the ones that apply to your proof....


Draw a head at the top of your paper. Make a vertical line that’s 6 ½ times taller than the head down the middle of the paper. Sketch an hourglass shape with 2 circles in it for the torso. Draw the arms so they extend from the top corners of the torso. Extend legs down from the bottom of the hourglass shape. Erase your guide lines so you have the basic shape of the body. Sketch features and hair onto your figure’s head. Add clothing to the figure.

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Place a circle near the top center of the page so there’s enough room to add hair later on. Put the point of the chin slightly outside the bottom edge of the circle since the jaw will come lower down. Sketch in curved jaw lines from either side of the circle toward the mark you just made to make a pointed chin for your anime girl.  Work lightly in pencil so you can erase and make changes if you need to. If you have trouble drawing a circle, use a compass to help you draw one. Don’t add any facial features yet since you may need to make adjustments to the size of the head later on. Measure the height of the head from the top of the circle to the point of the chin. Start your line at the top of your character’s head and draw it straight down so it’s 6 ½ taller than the head. Space horizontal marks down the vertical line so they’re the same distance apart as the head height to use as guides.  Measure your proportions each time or else your anime character won’t look natural. The guide line will also help keep your drawing symmetrical. Draw the top line of the hourglass shape slightly below the chin to form the shoulders. Draw curved lines going toward the center line, and flare out the bottom of the hourglass shape so it’s slightly wider than the shoulders for the hips. Draw 2 circles with a compass in the top half of the hourglass shape for your character’s breasts.  When you’re finished, the head and torso together will be about 3 heads tall. Your anime girl’s shoulders should be about 1 ½ times wider than the head. Draw small circles on the top corners of the hourglass shape if you want to visualize the shoulder joints better. Draw tubes extending down from the shoulder joints on the top of the torso. Once you reach the point where the body is it’s narrowest, put circles inside the tubes you’re drawing for the arms to mark the elbows. Continue extending the tubes down to the bottom of the hourglass and sketch small circles for the wrists. Draw mitten shapes for the hands attached to the ends of the arms.  The...


Draw a hexagon. Add another hexagon. Connect the lines. The final line art. Color your prism.

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This will be your hexagon's top base. The second hexagon will be your prism's lower base. They should mirror one another. Connect each corner of the top hexagon to the bottom hexagon. Knowing this technique will help you make 3D prisms of any figure. For added effects, make the lines on the back a bit lighter. They should look like they're hidden from view.


Draw a horizontal line 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) from the top of the castle for the roof. Make a door arch that is about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) the height of the keep. Sketch windows along the castle by drawing small arches. Finish the door with some horizontal lines and other decorations. Sketch pennants coming from the top of each tower for optional detail.

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Measure down from the walls, towers, and keep. Make a separate line across each part. These lines will add more depth and detail to your castle.. These lines make the roof of the castle look more distinct. They also help outline the upper walkways, which you can add more detail to later. Draw it in the center of the keep. Make sure its edges are an equal distance from the towers to the left and right. Sketch an upside-down U-shape to create a basic door.  Change the height of the door depending on your design. You could make it big, about 3⁄4 in (1.9 cm) the height of the keep, and it will still look good. A big door might make your castle look even harder to break into! If you’re drawing a castle from the side, the door may not be visible at all. Keep in mind the angle you have chosen for your drawing. People need some way to look out of the castle, so add a couple of windows along the front. Try drawing a pair of windows above the door, keeping them about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) from the top. Place a single window in the center of each tower section and then 3 more on the outer walls.  To draw simple windows, make them the same shape as the door. Draw a small, horizontal line, then draw an upside-down U-shape over it. The window positioning, size, and shape can vary a lot. It’s your design, so draw them how you want them! The simplest way to make the door stand out is with a series of lines consistently spaced out across its width. Try measuring about 1⁄8 in (0.32 cm) from the edge of the door. Then, draw a straight line from top to bottom. Keep doing this until you have run out of room.  To ensure these lines are spaced out more evenly, measure the width of the door first. Take the measurement across the bottom or middle part of the door where it is widest. For additional decoration, you could draw a pair of thin wooden bars running across the door’s width. Try placing them 1⁄3 in (0.85 cm) of the way from the top and bottom edges. You could also draw an arch around the door to make it look like it has a wood...


Draw a horizontal oval that's as long as you want the basket to be. Make a thick crescent shape extending from the bottom of the oval. Create a small ring at the bottom of the basket to make a base. Draw a parallel oval around the rim to give the basket dimension. Sketch 2 arcs that stretch across the basket to make a handle. Add hashed lines to give your basket a woven appearance.

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Use a pencil and lightly sketch the oval so you can go back and erase lines as needed. This oval will be the top rim of the basket so make it wide enough for the fruit to fit inside. Keep in mind that you won't see all of the oval once you fill your basket with fruit. To sketch the basket, draw a large curve from 1 end of the oval down and back up to the other end. The bottom line of the oval will make your basket shape look like a thick crescent. To make a shallow bowl instead of a deep basket, draw a narrow crescent below the oval. Although most baskets don't have bases, you can draw a narrow ring at the bottom to give your basket something to balance on. To give your basket edge a woven look, make the ring for the base extend along the length of the basket. Sketch your surrounding oval so it's slightly larger than the first oval you drew. Make the larger oval slightly narrower on the side of the basket that will be farther away from you.  The distance between the 2 ovals will depend on the size of your drawing. For example, your ovals might only be about 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) apart. Draw 1 curved line from the middle of the oval up and down to the opposite side of the oval. Then, make another curve that's parallel. Make the distance between them as wide as you'd like the handle to be. If you don't want your basket to have a handle, you can skip this step. You can make your basket weaving as simple or complex as you like. Start by drawing lines that curve from the top left down to the bottom right of the basket. Keep making the lines about 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) apart, for instance. Then, repeat this but make the curves go from the top right down to the bottom left.  If you don't want to make the basket look woven, use a pencil and blending stump to shade the bottom and 1 side of the basket. Refer to a real basket or photograph of a fruit basket in order to get ideas for the basket weave or style.


Draw a horizontal oval with a square beneath it. Add a thin rectangle under Squidward's neck. Draw two arms. Draw a rectangle for the legs. Sketch the face. Draw two semicircles at the sides of the square. Ink the drawing. Color in your drawing.

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This will serve as Squidward's head, although it should look more like a mushroom at this point. Followed this with a larger rectangle and a semicircle below that, for his torso. Each consists of one square and two rectangles with two triangles at each end. Squidward's arms in this picture are resting squarely on his hips, so try to imitate that position as effectively as possible Divide it into three (since the fourth leg is hidden behind him). Create pairs of triangles at the end of each leg for the feet. Draw an oval for each eye and between those draw an egg shape for the nose. Add two small ovals inside the eyes for irises. Draw a line across for the mouth. The eyes depend on what kind of expression you want, so be creative! Try to make a modular line, which passes from a thin to a thick line and vice versa. Also erase any remaining sketch lines. Use light greenish-grey for the majority of his body and a sort of mustard color for his shirt. Finish up with his light yellow eyes and bluish suction cups, and there you go! Squidward Tentacles!


Draw a hot, soapy bath. Exfoliate with a gritty sugar scrub. Douse yourself in baby oil for an overall tone reduction. Apply a strong toner to your face, neck, hands and feet before bedtime. Use self-tanner remover. Assess your skin color when you wake up in the morning.

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Choose a time when you are free to soak for at least 1 hour. The more recently you put on your self-tanner, the better; it's a bit harder to take off when it's set. Consider this an excuse for an hour of me time! This part is totally optional. Soaking for longer can loosen your self-tanner's jaws, but exfoliates and toners work by themselves, too. If you don't have one, you can make one yourself! The sugar beads lift up your top layer of skin, greatly reducing that unfortunate color you've acquired. And it leaves your skin silky smooth!  Use an exfoliating mitt to expedite the process and double your efficacy. A pumice stone is generally to hard on your skin, so it's best to stick to the mitt or your loofah. Then apply a gradual self-tanner, if you'd like. You know, one of the kinds that is purposefully slow-going. It can help even out what's left of your original experience. The longer you can keep it on the better, but aim for at least 10 minutes. 30 if you can tolerate the boredom of just standing there! This is a good method if you're just too dark or too orange, as it will reduce the difference between your natural tone and your tanned tone overall. These will be your biggest priorities, since they can't be easily covered with clothing. They are also resilient areas that are not prone to irritation when a toner is used. If you have a toner with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), use it. These acids tend to be very effective at correcting skin discoloration. Yep, there's definitely such a thing and they generally cost around $15. They come in the forms of pads or creams and are pretty self-explanatory. They'll be effective, but not necessarily any more so than the stuff you already have in your bathroom/kitchen. Only shell out the bills if for some reason you feel compelled to. You should notice significant improvement, but if you still see some discoloration or streaks, continue with regular baths, baking soda scrubs and lemon juice and toner applications. No self-tanner is that...


Draw a large bean shape to make the outline for the brain.

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Use a pencil to sketch a kidney bean shape on your paper. You can make the outline for the brain any size you like. To make the kidney bean shape, draw a circle that has an indent at the bottom. If you prefer, you could draw an oval instead, but make the middle noticeably wider than the ends.


Draw a large rectangle on your paper. Determine how to split your rectangle into five same-sized rows. Measure from the top of the rectangle down to the correct distance that you found in Step 2. Place the end of your ruler on this new line, and measure down the distance from Step 2 again. Measure the distance from Step 2 from the bottom of your second row and make a third small horizontal mark. Put the end of your ruler on the line along the bottom of your third row and measure the distance from Step 2 one last time. Measure 1 inch from the left side of the rectangle and make a small vertical mark with your pencil. Write categories for summarizing in the 1-inch vertical column on the left side of the summary chart. Fill in the rows next to each category with the information from the story or passage that answers that question.

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Your paper can be vertical or horizontal, depending on your preference.  You can draw your rectangle just inside the edges of the paper, so that it is almost the same size as the paper. This will allow you to have nice, large boxes in which to write summary information from a story, book, textbook, or other reading passage. Use a ruler to help you make the rectangle so that the edges are straight. Take the height of your large rectangle and divide it by five to get an approximate measurement for the height of each row. For example, if your paper is vertical, then 11” divided by 5 equals 2.2” (or approximately 2 ¼”) for the height of your rows. If your paper is horizontal, then 8.5” divided by 5 equals 1.7” (or approximately 1 2/3”) for the height of each row. Make a small horizontal mark with your pencil at that measurement. Then, you need to turn your ruler horizontally, so that it is parallel with the top of the large rectangle, and draw a line across the width of your rectangle. It should be perpendicular to the sides of the rectangle. Then, repeat the process of marking a small horizontal line at the correct distance and tracing a horizontal line across the width of your large rectangle. You now have two of the five rows that you need for your summary chart. Trace a line along your ruler horizontally so that you have a third row across the width of your rectangle. Make your horizontal mark at that distance, and draw your line across the width.  This last line separates row 4 and row 5. You should now have five same-sized rows across the width of your rectangle. Do your best to measure each row to the correct size with your ruler. Then, use your ruler to draw a line vertically from the top of the rectangle to the bottom at that 1-inch mark. You can use this summary chart to summarize a reading passage, story, book, or nonfiction passage. Here is a basic way to summarize most stories or articles, so you would write each of these in one of the five boxes along the narrow vertical column on the left:  Who?...


Draw a long line on a piece of paper. Make hash marks on your line. On the left, start writing numbers above the hashmarks. Stop numbering at 20.

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This will be the base of your number line. You can draw this in pen or marker, if you want to use your number line over and over again. This will make it look like a train track. You can also make these in pen so you can use the number line for more than one problem. Start with zero above the first hashmark on the left.  At each hashmark, write the next number up. For example, above the hash mark next to zero, write 1. You can write these in pen as well, so you can re-use the number line over and over again. Remember, doing math problems with numbers over 20 will make this method too hard. Now your number line should read from 0 to 20, going from left to right.


Draw a median of your triangle. Measure the length of the median. Divide the length of the median into thirds. Mark a point on the median ⅓ from the midpoint.

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Remember, the median is a line drawn from the midpoint of a side to the opposite vertex. You can use any median in the triangle. Make sure the measurement is exact. For example, you might have a median that is 3.6 cm long. To do this, divide the length by three. Again, make an exact calculation. If you round, you will not find the center of gravity. For example, if your median is 3.6 cm long, you would divide 3.6 by 3:3.6cm/3=1.2cm{\displaystyle 3.6cm/3=1.2cm}, so ⅓ of the median is 1.2 cm. This point is the triangle's centroid, which will always divide a median into a 2:1 ratio; that is, the centroid is ⅓ the median's distance from the midpoint, and ⅔ the median's distance from the vertex. For example, on a median that is 3.6 cm long, the centroid will be 1.2 cm up from the midpoint.


Draw a narrow rectangle as long as you want the car to be. Make a trapezoid or half-circle on top of the rectangle. Sketch 2 circles on the bottom of the large rectangle to make the wheels. Smooth the corners of the car and erase the line through the wheels. Draw a small rectangle in front of each wheel to create the bumpers. Make a small circular headlight and square tail light. Draw a rectangle or dome to make the window. Fill in as many details as you like. Finished.

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Use a pencil so you can go back and erase lines as needed. Sketch lightly so you can add details as you go. Keep in mind that this large rectangle will make up the bulk of your cartoon car, so draw the rectangle as long and as wide as you want the car to be. Draw your car in pencil regardless of whether you color it or not, since you'll need to erase some lines as you work. Then, you can go back and color in the car with colored pencils, crayons, or markers if you like. If you'd like the cartoon car to appear somewhat realistic, make a trapezoid on top of the rectangle so it's centered.  To draw an exaggerated-looking car, make a dome or half-circle on top of the large rectangle instead. You can center the dome or place it to one end of the car. To draw a trapezoid, sketch a smaller rectangle on top of the large rectangle and erase the 2 short sides. Then, draw the short sides so they slope down at an angle to meet the top of the large rectangle. To determine how much space to leave between the wheels, imagine 2 circles that are the same size as the wheels placed in between the wheels for your car.  The bottom line of the rectangle should run straight through the center of the wheels for your cartoon car. If it helps, draw 4 circles that are touching across the bottom line of the rectangle. Then, erase the middle 2 circles. Use an eraser to remove the line that's running through the wheels. Then, take your pencil and sketch around the body of the car, making it rounded instead of boxy. If you prefer an angular cartoon car, you can skip this. If you sketch rounded curves along the edges of the car's body, use your eraser to clean up the corners. Make the rectangle extend about halfway from the wheel to the front or back of the car so it sticks out from the body a little bit. This will make it look like the bumper. Repeat this for the other wheel. Don't draw a rectangle between the 2 wheels since this is where the car doors would be. Draw a circle or oval on the front of the car's body. If you have an angular...


Draw a palm tree for a tropical scene. Add a beach umbrella to make it look like people were there. Sketch a boat in the water to add some fun detail. Go over your pencil lines with pen and erase the pencil. Color your picture with colored pencils, crayons, pastels, or markers. Finished.

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Use 2 long, vertical, slightly curved lines to draw the trunk of the palm tree. Draw the leaves like big feathers: make a curved line, and then a bunch of short lines coming off of it, all pointing downward.  You can add as many palm trees as you want. Of course, if your beach is somewhere that doesn’t have palm trees, you don’t have to draw them. Draw a little wiggly line under the palm tree to make it clear it’s standing on sand, not just floating. It might be tricky to actually draw people, but you can make the beach look full of life by adding in a beach umbrella. Use a slightly diagonal line to draw the pole coming out of the sand. Draw a curved line facing down for the umbrella, and a bunch of little connected curves for the bottom of the umbrella. You can add a beach towel underneath the towel by drawing a diamond. This will look like a tilted towel. Draw the hull of the boat by drawing a half circle, and then erasing the part that would be underneath the water. Then draw a straight line for the mast, and a triangle for the sail. If you want your boat to be really far away, you can draw it really tiny on the horizon. Take a pen or a marker and go over the lines that you want to keep in your drawing. You probably made a lot of extra wiggly lines when you were sketching with a pencil, and you don’t need to keep those in. Once you go over the pencil lines with pen, you can erase all the pencil lines. Make sure the ink has dried before you erase the pencil or your eraser will smudge the ink. You can use yellow or brown for the sand, brown for the palm tree trunks, and green for leaves. If your scene is in the day, color the sky a light blue and the ocean a slightly darker blue-green. If your scene is at sunrise or sunset, color the sky with stripes of color, and make those colors reflect a bit off the water too.  Your ocean will look more realistic if you color it with multiple colors, like blue, green, and purple, instead of all one color. You can color in your beach umbrella and beach towel bright colors...


Draw a picture. Replace the words in a song. Use mnemonic devices. Create associations.

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If you have a visual memory, a simple picture can really enhance your vocabulary list or flashcards. Try drawing something that will remind you of the word's meaning. For example, you could draw a picture of a happy face next to the word "elated." Try to incorporate the picture into the word somehow. For example, you could draw devil horns on the word "malevolent" to remind you that it means "evil." If you're having a hard time remembering the meaning of a word that has a much easier synonym, it may help to train your brain to associate the two. Think of song lyrics that contain the synonym and repeat them to yourself over and over using your new vocabulary word in place of its synonym. If you do this enough, you should have a very easy time remembering that the two words mean the same thing. For example, if you need to remember that the word "jubilant" means "happy," try changing the words to "If You're Happy and You Know It" to "if you're jubilant and you know it, clap your hands." A mnemonic device is simply a word or sentence that helps you remember something. When you use a mnemonic device for a vocabulary word, you should try to use the sounds in the word to remind yourself of its definition.  For example, if you need to remember the meaning of the word "perilous," you might decide that it sounds something like "pear is lost." Use this sentence to create a short back story that you'll remember. If you can't think of a mnemonic device yourself, search for a mnemonic dictionary online. It'll give you several suggestions for how to remember the meaning of your word. Another great trick to help you quickly remember your vocabulary words is to associate each word with an object or person. As long as there is some kind of reason for the association, even if it's silly, this will help you quickly recall the meaning of each word.  For example, you might assign a different vocabulary word to each item of furniture in your living room based on its appearance. You can also do this with people by assigning a word...


Draw a rectangle for the car’s body with a pencil. Draw the car's canopy directly on top of the body rectangle. Pencil in circles and half circles for the wheels, hubcaps, and wheel wells. Add the headlights and bumper at the front of the car. Create 2 side windows within the outline of the car's canopy. Draw a small mirror at the lower corner of the window nearest the car’s front. Sketch in the rectangular car doors and door handles. Darken over your pencil lines to finalize your sketch.

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Press lightly so that you can erase parts of the rectangle easily later on. The rectangle should be about 4 times as wide as it is high.  If you want the car to be a little less boxy, make the top horizontal line a little shorter than the bottom horizontal line, and angle the vertical lines slightly inward. In other words, draw a trapezoid instead of a rectangle! This easy sketch makes a side view (2-dimensional view) of a boxy-looking car. Make the canopy a trapezoid (that is, a rectangle with angled sides and a top line that's shorter than the bottom line). Draw it about half the width of the rectangle for the body, but make it about the same height. The angled lines on the trapezoid represent the front and rear windshields. You can make the sides angle inward equally, or give the side that represents the front windshield a slightly sharper angle. Start by drawing 2 circles to represent the wheels. Situate the circles so that the bottom line of the car body rectangle cuts them in half horizontally. Space them out so that they’re beneath the front and rear windshields—that is, the angled vertical lines of the trapezoid.  Each circle should be roughly one-sixth the width of the car body rectangle. Then, draw half circles over the top halves of both wheel circles—these represent the wheel wells. After that, draw slightly smaller circles inside both wheel circles to represent the hubcaps. For the front bumper, draw a square with rounded sides that overlaps the bottom left (or right) corner of the car body rectangle. Give the headlight an oval or conical shape if you want, a bit like an ice cream cone turned sideways! Locate the headlight just below the top left (or right) corner of the car body rectangle.  You can also add a rear bumper to the opposite side of the car if you wish. To give your cartoon car a face, make the front headlight much bigger and add an circle for an eyeball and a line for an eyelid inside it. Also, make the front bumper bigger and give it an upward turn to look like a smile! Draw a...


Draw a rectangle that is slightly wider on top. Add a banana-like shape on top of your first rectangle, this is a guide in drawing the hair later. Draw the eyes, draw a small circle and a bigger one adjacent to it. Draw curved lines that form into pointed angles for the hair. Draw Ferb's shirt. Add a few details to the shoes using small strokes. Erase unnecessary lines and refine desired lines from your outline. Color your drawing.

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Draw another rectangle below the first one, make the edges into curved instead of angled. Draw the hands and feet, you can use two curved lines for the hands and sausage shapes for the fingers. The feet can be drawn using an oblong. 3The shaded part would look like a crescent moon. Draw a half square for the nose, one-third of the bigger eye is covered by the nose. On the opposite side of the nose, draw the ears using an inverted C shape with a number 3 inside it. Draw an angle for the mouth.  For the collar, you can draw two inverted triangles that overlap each other. Add a small circle at the center for Ferb's button. Sketch a rectangle for the sleeves. Draw the top of Ferb's pants, and the belt using four squares. On the knee area, draw two rectangles. Just above the sole of the shoes draw a horizontal line and at the center of the shoe, you can add a vertical curved line. For the socks, just add a small line above the shoe.


Draw another  shape that would look like a curved rectangle below the first one, make the edges into curved instead of angled. Draw the hands and feet, for the arms you can use two straight lines and for fingers, add sausage shapes. Draw another set of parallel lines for the legs. The feet can be drawn using an oblong. Add a smaller circle shade half of the space with black for the pupils. The shaded part would look like a crescent moon. Draw a half square for the nose, one-third of the bigger eye is covered by the nose. On the opposite side of the nose, draw the ears using an inverted C shape with a number 3 inside it. Draw an angle for the mouth.  For the collar, you can draw two inverted triangles that overlap each other. Add a small circle at the center for Ferb's button. Sketch a rectangle for the sleeves. Draw the top of Ferb's pants, and the belt using four squares. On the knee area, draw two rectangles. Just above the sole of the shoes draw two vertical lines and at the center of the shoe, you can add a horizontal curved line. For the socks, just add a small line above the shoe.


Draw a small circle near the center of the page for your butterfly’s head. Sketch 2 smaller circles overlapping with the top of the head for the eyes. Add a smaller circle inside each eye to show the light reflecting off of them. Color in the eyes black, except for the small circles. Draw 2 curved lines coming off the top of the head with a swirl at each end for the antennae. Sketch a tall, narrow “U” shape coming down off the head for the body. Draw a big “B” shape off the right side of the body for the first wing. Sketch a backward “B” shape off the left side of the body for the second wing. Add 2 circles to each wing to give your butterfly’s wings a design. Draw 3 short lines coming off each side of the body for the legs. Color in your butterfly.

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Don’t make it too big since you want to have room for the body and wings. About the size of a nickel or quarter will work. Make each circle about half the size of the head. Draw one eye on the top left half of the head and the other eye on the top right half. Make these circles about ¼ the size of the eyes. Draw the circle in the left eye near the top left of the eye, and draw the circle in the right eye near the top right of the eye. When you’re finished, your butterfly will have two big bug eyes that look like they're reflecting light. Make the line on the left side of the head curve out to the left, and make the line on the right side of the head curve out to the right. Draw each line about 1 ½ times as long as the head is tall. You can make the antennae symmetrical, or you can have one antenna curve down more than the other! Make the “U” shape about half the width of the head, and center it underneath the head. Draw the “U” shape so it’s about the same height as the head, or slightly taller. Start the “B” shape at the top of the body on the right side, and end on the bottom of the body on the right side. Make the “B” shape about 3 times the width of the head. Draw this wing just like you drew the first one, except mirrored. Try to make each wing about the same size. Don’t worry if the wings aren’t completely identical. Draw a circle in the upper half of each wing and then the lower half of each wing. Make the circles about the same size as the head, with the circles in the lower halves of the wings slightly smaller. On each side, draw a line coming off near the top, middle, and bottom of the body. Angle the top legs slightly up, and angle the bottom legs slightly down. Make each line about the same length as the width of the eyes. You can use any colors you’d like. Choose bright colors, like purple, pink, blue, and green if you want your cartoon butterfly to really pop. Color the body and head in using the same color. Then, choose a different color for the wings. Use a third color to fill in the circles...


Draw a square with curved edges, then add a crossed line inside the square. For the arms, add two sausage shapes, one on each arm. Add details to the face. Draw the hair using small strokes that form into angles. Draw the details of the arms and hands. Use the same strokes used in the hands when drawing the legs, to make them also look furry. Erase unnecessary lines. Color your drawing.

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Draw another square, make the top part wider than the bottom and replace the edges with curves lines instead of angled. For the legs, use curved strokes and add a C shape for the feet. Draw two small circles for the eyes. Draw a smaller circle inside the big ones and shade a part of the small circle with black. The shaded part would look like a crescent moon. Add the nose. Use two small circles for the nostrils and add a curved line on each side. Draw the mouth using a horizontal line with a triangle on each side for the fangs. Add the ears on each side of the head using C shapes.  Use small strokes that shape into angles as you draw the arms to make them look furry. When drawing the fingers, you can use small sausage shapes and a small circular shape on each tip for the fingernails. Add a few horizontal and slanted strokes on the chest of the monster. For the toes, use shorter U shaped curves and then add the toenails using small circular shapes.


Draw a stick figure from the head to the torso. Draw his suit. Sketch the face. Erase unnecessary lines. Color your drawing.

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Take note of the bat-inspired bowtie. Use a circle for the eyes, two short slanted lines for the nostrils and a long curved horizontal line with vertical lines lined across for the mouth. Add lines under the eyes to give him the wrinkly effect.


Draw a stick figure of Jack. Add volume to the stick figure. Draw his suit. Draw the face. Erase unnecessary lines. Color your drawing.

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Take note that Jack is very thin and has pointy fingers. He has a bat-inspired bowtie and the bottom of his coat has five pointy tips at the back. He has eye sockets since he is already a skeleton. Draw an angle pointing upwards for the nose. Use vertical lines lined across a horizontal line for the mouth.


Draw a stick-figure outline of your character’s body. Outline the general shapes of your character’s body. Connect and refine the general shapes you drew. Erase the stick-figure outline and shapes you drew. Add your anime character’s clothes.

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Use straight lines for the arms, torso, and legs. Make the arms and torso similar in length, and make the legs about 1/3 longer. Then, draw triangles or ovals for the hands and feet. Make the hands about 1/5 the length of the arm, and make the feet about 1/6 the length of the legs.  To get the proportions right, make your stick-figure outline about 7 times as tall as your character’s head. Have the arm lines start about 1/5 of the way down the line you draw for the torso. Have the stick-figure outline of your character capture whatever pose you want them to be in. For example, if you want your character to be sitting, draw their legs so they're bent. Or, if you want your character to be waving, draw one of their arms so it's bent. Drawing over the stick-figure outline you made, sketch a rough outline of your character’s torso, arms, hips, and legs. Don’t worry about making the outline precise yet. At this point, you just want to represent the different parts of the body with basic shapes.  Draw ovals for the upper and lower arms and legs, and then draw a circle at each joint for the knees and elbows. Proportionally, make your character’s upper and lower arms the same length and size. Make their upper legs thicker than their lower legs. For the torso, draw a quadrilateral (a 4-sided shape) that’s wider at the top and narrower at the bottom. Eventually, the wide corners at the top will become your character’s shoulders. To outline the hips, draw an oval over the point where the torso and upper legs meet. Anime characters tend to be tall and thin, but you can experiment with different heights and body shapes! Trace around the outer edges of your character’s body so you have one seamless outline. At this point, start refining the different parts of the body so they look more realistic, like your character’s hands, shoulders, hips, and neck. When you’re finished, you’ll have a full, detailed outline of your character’s body around the more abstract outlines you drew before.  To connect and refine the legs, draw...