Purchase a keypad repair kit that can be used to fix the remote. Wash the rubber buttons off with soap and water. Rinse the buttons and plastic case off under running water. Set the buttons in a spot with good air circulation to dry. Wipe the circuit board with rubbing alcohol. Apply conductive paint to the keypad contacts. Let the remote dry for up to 72 hours. Put the remote back together and test it.

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A keypad repair kit comes with several brushes and a bottle of conductive paint. Plan on getting one that includes a cleaning fluid as well, such as rubbing alcohol or acetone, so you have everything you need for the repair. Getting a repair kit is well worth the price, especially if you’re trying to fix an expensive remote or one that is no longer manufactured. A typical repair kit costs between $20 and $30, although you may find smaller kits for less.  Repair kits are available online and at some electronics stores. These repair kits work for other devices, including garage door openers, calculators, and even keyboards. Remotes either have individual buttons or a sheet of plastic with all the buttons attached. Remove the individual buttons or the entire sheet and take it to your sink. Fill a bowl with warm water, then mix in at least 1 US tbsp (15 mL) of a liquid dish detergent. Soak the buttons and scrub them clean with a soft brush. Use one of the brushes in your kit or get an old toothbrush. Rub away any noticeable debris, but spend extra time scrubbing any buttons that stick when you press them. Get some warm water running in your sink. Move all of the buttons there. The parts of the plastic case, as long as they don’t contain any electronic components, are also safe to wash this way. Make sure you get all of the soap and remaining debris before allowing the components to dry. Test the buttons. If they stick or feel sticky, then spend more time scrubbing them. Look closely for any debris that could cause them to stop functioning. Spread out a towel on your countertop, for instance, and put the buttons and case parts there. Keep them in a relatively secure place out of direct sunlight. Decrease the drying time by keeping them out in the open.  Make sure the remote control components are out of the way so they don’t end up getting knocked over and lost. The parts have to be completely dry before going back into the remote or else the moisture could damage the circuitry. The best solution to use on the...


Purchase a large plastic tub to serve as a litter box. Get litter for the box. Buy a liter scoop and a “step-on” trashcan. Put the box in a place that is easily accessed, but private. Make sure each cat and dog has its own box.

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All you really need is something to hold the litter, though there are more expensive versions that offer a self-cleaning function or grass on top (with waste collecting in a lower pan).  The box should be big enough for your dog to turn around in. The sides should be low enough that your dog can enter by himself, but high enough to stop your dog from peeing out of the box if he lifts his leg. If you buy a box with a hood, consider cutting the top off to make the box easier for your dog to use and for you to clean. Dog litter works best because it has larger pellets that are more absorbent. Dog litter ranges from simple clay to those with activated charcoal to control odor. For your own odor control, simply sprinkle baking soda on the bottom of the box each time before you fill it. You need to remove your dog’s waste every time he eliminates in the box, if possible. Having a scoop and trashcan nearby will make this much easier. You want the box near the places your dog spends most of his time, but also out of the way enough that you’re not watching him.  Don’t place the box near your dog’s food and water, as dogs will not eliminate where they eat. Be aware that dogs have a tendency to dig in their box, especially at first. Place it so that any litter thrown out during digging will not cause too much of a mess. Your cat needs to feel ownership of his box, or he will start peeing outside the box to mark his territory. And if you have two dogs, it’s best to get each of them their own box to avoid similar issues with territoriality.


Purchase a light-colored, long-sleeved coverall. Attach elastic to the neck hole and wrists. Put on your suit.

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This option is more expensive than making a suit out of a shirt and pants, but some find it easier to have a one-piece suit. make sure the coverall you purchase is white or light in color.  Dark colors can aggravate bees since these colors remind them of their predators, like bears and skunks. Make sure the coverall fits loosely in order to keep the material from directly contacting the skin. This helps to avoid stingers that might pierce the fabric. Measure elastic to fit the neck hole and wrists, then cut the elastic to the correct measurements. Sew the elastic pieces around neck opening and wrist openings.  This is important to prevent bees from gaining access to the inside of the coverall. Don't make the elastic too tight, but it should be tight enough to offer protection from bees. When putting on the beekeeper's suit, put the hat on first, then the coveralls. Make sure the mesh of the hat is securely tucked in at the neck of the coveralls. Add gloves, socks and boots to the ensemble.


Purchase a live trap. Check regularly on the trap. Release the armadillo.

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An animal trap is a hands-free way to humanely catch an armadillo and get it out of your hair for good. Purchase a large one-door animal trap from a store like Home Depot or Walmart.  Make sure that the trap you purchase is a live trap, also known as a catch-and-release trap. These traps are non-lethal and won't harm the armadillo. Try to get a trap with measurements around 12” x 10” x 30”. Check on the trap several times a day after setting it. You don't want to trap the armadillo only to forget about it, causing the animal distress. If after a few days the armadillo is still loose, consider moving the trap to another location that the armadillo favors. If you have tried repositioning the trap and the armadillo still doesn't go in, call animal control. After you have captured the armadillo, try to release it as soon as possible. Put on protective gloves to protect your hands from the armadillo's claws. Place the cage on floor of your car or in the bed of your truck. Drive at least five miles away from your home to a wooded area, preferably one around water, and open the cage to release the armadillo. Stand behind or to one side of the cage as you release the armadillo. There's no reason for it to attack you, but you should still try to not stand directly in front of its path.


Purchase a manual oil press for making small batches. Buy an automatic oil press if you want to make larger batches. Select nuts or seeds with a high oil content. Clean your nuts or seeds and shell them if necessary. Sun-dry your nuts or seeds for 24 hours after cleaning them. Warm up your oil press. Add your nuts or seeds to the press as directed in the instructions. Press the nuts or seeds according to your press’s directions. Let the oil settle for 24 hours. Put the oil into an airtight container and store it in a cool, dark area.

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If you’re just interested in making small amounts (e.g., around 2 cups (0.47 L) or less) of oil now and then, a manual oil press or oil expeller is a good option. These presses are hand-cranked and heated with a small kerosene or alcohol lamp. They typically come with a clamp that can be attached to your work surface (such as a table or counter).  You can purchase oil presses online or from many home or kitchen supply stores. Manual oil presses tend to cost between $75 and $130 USD. You will need a separate container, such as a small glass jar, for catching the oil. Although these devices are often called “cold presses,” almost all forms of nuts and seeds require at least a small amount of heat (under 120 °F (49 °C)) to get them to release their oils. If you’re producing larger quantities of oil or want something easier and more efficient than a hand-cranked press, an electric oil press is your best bet. Search online for “electric oil press” or “automatic oil press.”  Electric oil presses for home use are available from many online retailers and brick-and-mortar stores that sell kitchen appliances. These presses are costlier than old-fashioned manual presses, usually selling for around $200 to $500 USD. Check the instructions for your oil press to find out what oil content is required to make oil with that specific press. Most presses can extract oil from nuts or seeds with an oil content of at least 25%.  Good nuts and seeds for making oil include:  Sunflower seeds (be sure to use an oilseed variety). Pumpkin seeds (again, select oilseed pumpkins, which have shell-less seeds). Sesame seeds. Hazelnuts. Peanuts. Flaxseed. Safflower seeds. Pecans. Almonds. Walnuts. Rinse your seeds in water, taking care to remove any hard particles such as small stones, twigs, and dried-on dirt. These kinds of contaminants can get into the oil and even damage the press. For nuts and seeds with hard shells, such as walnuts and hazelnuts, it may be necessary to remove the shell before pressing the seeds. Check the instructions...


Purchase a medical spoon. Make a hole in the end of the handle. Practice at home.

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A medical spoon is a cheap plastic device that you can buy at your local pharmacy. It has a broad open spoon-shaped end that is connected to a tube. You can use this as an STP device by peeing into the spoon end and directing the stream out of the end of the tube. You can convert a medical spoon into an STP device very easily. The tube end of the spoon is closed up, so to use it as an STP device you need make a hole in the end for the pee to come out of. There are a few ways you can do this. If you have a drill, you can drill a hole in the end of the tube. This will give you good control and allow you to direct the stream with some accuracy.  Alternatively you can slice off the end of the tube. If you do this, you can use a lighter to warm the plastic and make it easier to cut.  After slicing off the end of the tube, you can use the lighter to ensure that there are no sharp edges. After you have made your STP device, you should be sure that you spend some time at home practicing with it. It can be a strange experience at first, and leaks and mess can happen if you are uncertain. Practice using it in the bath, shower, or toilet at home before you try using it in a men’s room.


Purchase a memory stick. Format your PSP memory stick using the following steps. Find out what firmware you have installed.

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PSP games come on small discs called UMD (Universal Media Disc), the games you will download are images of this discs called ISOs so you will need a Memory  Stick (MS) to store this games. The memory Stick supported by the PSP is the PRO-DUO, but you can also use Micro SD cards with PRO-DUO adaptors. The PSP recognizes up to 32GB of memory. Make sure you get a large stick you can have more games at the same time. Find and remove the lid on the left side of your PSP and insert the MS facing up. Press the PSP "Home" button at the bottom-left of your PSP (it has a the PlayStation logo). Use the cursor buttons to go to "Settings" and then go to the "System Settings" menu. Select the "Format Memory Stick" option. Confirm your action by choosing "Yes" in the menu that appears. Your PSP device will then format the memory stick (it should only take a few seconds). The firmware is the operating system that your PSP uses to store files and execute functions. In order to play downloaded games (ISOs) you will need to "hack" your PSP, this process is explained below but first you need to know which firmware you have:  Click "Home." Browse to and select "Settings." Open the "System Settings" menu. Select the "System Information" option. The firmware version will be displayed on your screen.


Purchase a micro USB-to-HDMI converter. Plug the small end of the converter into your Android. Plug your HDMI cable into your converter. Plug the HDMI cable into your TV. Turn on your TV. Change your TV's input to the relevant HDMI port. Wait for your Android screen to display.

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Your phone's charging port--also known as a micro USB outlet--cannot support the same cable that interfaces with your TV by default, so you'll need to purchase a converter. You can do so by typing "micro USB to HDMI" into a search engine and selecting a pertinent option (e.g., something from Amazon).  Make sure your device is compatible with your chosen cable before purchasing. You can do this by typing your device's name and the cable's name into a search engine and reviewing the results. If you don't already have an HDMI cable, purchase one now. HDMI cables go for around $10 online. This should fit into the charging port at the bottom of your phone. Your HDMI cable will fit in the opposite end of the converter. The roughly trapezoid-shaped HDMI port(s) should be on the back of your TV. HDMI ports usually have the word "HDMI" printed next to them.  Take note of which input is listed below the HDMI port (e.g., Video 3). Your converter may come with a USB power cable. If your TV doesn't have a readily-available USB port near the HDMI port, you can plug the USB power cable into your Android charger unit.  How you do this will depend on your TV model, but you can usually do so by pressing the "Input" button on the top or side of your TV. If your HDMI port is "Video 3", for example, you'll need to change the TV's displayed input to "Video 3". If you don't see your Android's screen mirrored on your TV after a few seconds, you may have to restart your device.


Purchase a mild shampoo. Comb out tangles with a wide tooth comb gently. Fill up a sink basin with water. Mix a capful of shampoo formulated for synthetic hair into the water. Immerse your wig or hair extensions in the water. Swish the hair around in the water by moving it from side to side. Rinse the hair with cool water.

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The shampoo should be a shampoo specifically formulated for synthetic hair. A shampoo for synthetic wigs works fine on synthetic extensions as well. However, if you cannot find a shampoo for synthetic hair, then a mild shampoo works fine too.  Not all shampoos are labeled mild or strong, so look for a shampoo without “sulfates,”  which is a strong cleansing agent. Shampoos without sulfates are much gentler on the hair, and they’re usually labeled as “sulfate-free” on the front of the bottle.  You should be able to buy shampoos for synthetic wigs and extensions at a beauty supply store or wig store. (Try only to use conditioner if you can.) That said, you should only wash synthetic hair if it is smelly or visibly dirty. Washing will not add shine or strengthen the hair, and you should not wash it too often. A wide tooth comb won’t snag the hair like a comb with smaller teeth does. Work from the ends of the hair to the roots as you gently comb the tangles out. In other words, work from the bottom up.  To make the combing process easier, wet the hair by spritzing it with a spray bottle filled with water or detangling spray. Then, comb the hair. If the hair has a really tight curl pattern, use your fingers to comb the hair. Your fingers are much gentler, won’t snag the hair and won’t disrupt the curl pattern like a comb does. If you are wearing a wig or clip-in extensions, you might find it easier to take them off and then comb them. Purchase a wig block at a beauty supply store, and set the wig on the block with T-pins. This will help you comb the hair. The water should be cool to  lukewarm -- not hot.  Make sure that the water is not too hot or it might affect the smoothness or texture of the hair. Fill up the sink to a level high enough to immerse all of the hair in the water. If you are washing a lot of hair, then mix two capfuls of shampoo into the water. Use your best judgment to decide if you need one or two capfuls. You don’t want to use too much shampoo because you don’t want the cleanser to strip the...


Purchase a milk glass collectors manual. Look at milk glass manufacturer catalogs and websites. Get the item appraised by a professional.

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Manuals like The Milk Glass Book, Yesterday's Milk Glass, and Collectors Encyclopedia of Milk have hundreds of examples and photographs that you can look through to improve your milk glass identification skills. Get the manual and compare photos of authentic milk glass with the items that you own. You can purchase these books online. You can find authentic examples of milk glass items online or in specific catalogs. If you think you may have an expensive milk glass piece, compare it to an authentic photograph of the item. If it looks the same, there’s a good chance that it’s the same item. If you’re unsure if you have milk glass or if your piece is valuable, you should take it to an appraiser to get it professionally evaluated. Search online for antique appraisers near you.  A professional appraisal can cost anywhere from $100-$400. You can use websites like What’s It Worth to You, Value My Stuff, and  WorthPoint as a more affordable alternative to an in-person professional appraisal. These sites cost anywhere from $20-$40 for an appraisal.  Appraisers will sometimes be able to award the item with a certificate of authenticity and can sometimes give you the background or history of your item.


Purchase a millipede insecticide. Apply the insecticide along the perimeter of your house. Treat the soil around outdoor hiding places. Spread diatomaceous earth or boric acid in the soil around your yard. Hire a professional if you're still struggling to get rid of millipedes.

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Go to a local gardening center, hardware store, or online to buy a chemical spray or powder. Look for a product that contains bendiocarb, carbaryl, cyfluthrin, or propoxur. Always read the manufacturer's instructions and warnings before using the product. Spray or scatter the pesticides along the perimeter of your house according to the package instructions. When the millipedes cross over the insecticide, the chemicals will get onto their feet and gradually kill them. Remember to wear gloves to prevent the insecticide from irritating your skin. Check the package to determine how often to reapply the insecticide.  If you used powder and live in a wet climate, you'll need to reapply it more frequently than if you used a liquid insecticide. If you know where the millipedes gather outside, you can mix an outdoor insecticide into the soil or debris there. For example, spread the insecticide into mulched flower beds. The chemicals will eventually get inside the millipedes and poison them. For a more natural way to treat the soil, mix a few handfuls of dry wood ash into the soil around your home. The wood ash will dry out the rest of the soil so millipedes won't want to lay their eggs. Purchase either of these powders from garden centers and sprinkle it into the soil where the millipedes are congregating. Both products will make microscopic cuts that dehydrate and kill the millipedes. The boric acid also acts as a stomach poison that will kill the millipedes. You can use either of these products in your home, such as in the cracks or damp spots, but you shouldn't use them if you have kids or pets. If you've removed the millipedes from your house, treated your yard, and still have a millipede problem, call a pest control professional. Although this will cost money, it's a good idea if you're also experiencing another pest outbreak, such as centipedes. To find a pest control professional, ask your neighbors for recommendations, read reviews online, and check local listings.


Purchase a mounting bracket that fits your make and model. Clean the mounting site on your bumper with alcohol wipes. Test the fit without removing the protective film. Remove the protective film and press the bracket to the bumper. Screw the license plate onto the bracket.

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Look online or visit your local automotive store for a no-drill mounting bracket that fits your car’s make and model. Many no-drill brackets use a strong adhesive and fit a variety of makes and models. Some brackets fit only a specific model and include special hardware to clamp the bracket onto the grill or bumper. Check your product manual for specific installation instructions. An adhesive-mounted bracket requires a clean installation site. Locate the center of your bumper where you’ll mount the bracket, clean it with alcohol wipes, then let it air dry or dry it with a clean microfiber cloth. Some brackets attach to the front face of the bumper, while others stick to indentations or gaps unique to specific models. Check your installation instructions for details about the mounting location. The adhesive is protected by a film, which you should leave in place while you test the fit. Place the bracket onto the mounting site to make sure it fits and matches your model. If it doesn’t line up with your car’s bumper, you might have accidentally bought the wrong kind of bracket. See if you can exchange it for the correct bracket. After you’ve double checked your bracket’s fit, peel back the protective film to expose the adhesive. Press the bracket firmly onto the bumper’s front face, underside, or other mounting site specified in your product’s instructions. Try to be precise when you mount the bracket, since you'll only get one shot. Once the bracket is in place, you can align its holes with the holes in your license plate. If your product includes a license plate frame, place it over the license plate and align its holes with those in the bracket and plate. Drive the screws clockwise through the holes to complete installation.


Purchase a new Keurig filter package. Soak the filter in water for 5 to 10 minutes. Rinse the filter. Rinse the lower filter holder. Replace the filter in the filter-housing unit. Turn the replacement dial ahead 2 months. Set the Keurig to remind you about the next filter change. Insert the water filter unit into the Keurig reservoir.

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Keurig water filters are not sold individually, so you'll need to buy a set. They're commonly sold in groups of 6 or 12. You can find Keurig filters sold in the same stores that sell Keurig machines. Check any business or department stores that sell housewares, including Bed Bath and Beyond, Sears, Target, and larger grocery stores.  If you'd rather shop online, Keurig filters are sold through major retailers like Amazon and Walmart. Also check the websites of business that stock housewares. Filter sets are relatively inexpensive. Depending on the number of individual filters in a package, the cost can range between $5 and $10. Before you install the new filter in your Keurig and make the first cup of coffee, the filter needs to soak and absorb water. Fill a cup or bowl partway with water, and drop the filter in. Make sure that the filter is completely submerged while it's soaking. The filter will float initially, but will have absorbed water and sunk to the bottom of the cup or bowl after 10 minutes. For best results, rinse the filter off with tap water after it has finished soaking. Keep the tap water on a medium flow, and rinse the filter for a full 60 seconds. The lower filter holder will have a thin mesh layer on its bottom side. Rinse this off with tap water to remove any dirt or impurities that may have built up during normal use. Give the sides of the lower filter holder a quick rinse too. Slide the new filter into the filter holder, with its rounded top-side facing up. Set the lower filter holder in place below it. The mesh bottom of the lower filter holder should cover up the flat bottom of the fabric filter. Snap the 2 sides of the filter holder in place around the filter. The replacement dial is located on top of the handle of the filter replacement unit. It's about the size of your thumb, and will list numbers 1–12 (each of which stands for the corresponding month). Twist the dial clockwise until the indicator points to the month 2 ahead of the current month.  So, if it's currently October (month...


Purchase a new flush valve seal. Connect the new flapper to the flush valve. Adjust the chain length. Test out the new flapper.

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Bring the old flapper with you when shopping for a new one. That way, you’ll be able to compare different styles to find one with the appropriate specifications. Make sure the new flapper is the right size to cover your toilet’s flush valve and uses the same points of connection.  Toilet flappers come in different sizes, designs, and materials. Your best bet for a home bathroom is a standard rubber flapper, which offers a little bit of flex to provide a secure seal.  If you have any questions regarding toilet flappers or their function, don’t hesitate to ask one of the home improvement specialists on staff for assistance. Slide the holes on either side of the rubber seal over the pegs on the valve, then clip the lift chain to the lower end of the toilet handle lever. Lower the flapper to confirm that it sits squarely over the flush valve and provides total coverage.  Double check that each of the connection sites is secure so the flapper doesn’t accidentally come loose after a few flushes. Use a fine-grit sandpaper to clean the valve seal so your new flapper is watertight. There should be enough tension in the chain connecting the flapper to the toilet handle lever to open the valve easily when the toilet is flushed, but not so much that it pulls or weakens the seal. Give the handle a push and see how the action feels. You may need to change the position of the chain a few times to get a perfect flush.  A good rule of thumb is that the ring on the end of the lift chain should be touching or hovering just above the bottom of the tank. Keep in mind that more force will be required to depress the handle when the tank is full. Right now, you’re just feeling for a comfortable range of motion. Don’t let the chain have enough slack where it would be pulled under the flapper when you flush the toilet. Turn the water shutoff valve counterclockwise to restore the water and refill the tank. Wait a few moments for the water level to rise well above the flush valve, then press the handle. The toilet should flush...


Purchase a new light switch that meets your requirements at a local home repair or hardware store. Test the switch. Check the wires inside the wall box and identify each wire. Attach the copper (grounding) wire to the green screw terminal on the opposite side of the switch. Double-check that the switch is properly oriented.

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Tell the store employee what kind of switch you want and how many you’ll need, and they can help you determine the best purchase. Single-pole switches are the simplest and most common. A single-pole switch has just two positions—“on” and “off.” Flip the light switch on and off several times to be sure the power is off. Use a marker or colored tape to uniquely label each wire so you can tell them apart.  The box will contain one or two cables (or sets of wires). If the box contains two cables, it means the switch is in the middle of the circuit. You’ll see a total of six wires: two black (hot) wires, two green or bare copper (grounding) wires, and two (neutral) wires, which may be black, white, red, or any other color than green. Mark the wire connected to the brass screw terminal or to the hole on the same side as the brass terminal as the “hot” wire. Mark the wire connected to the silver screw terminal or to the hole on the same side as the silver terminal as the “neutral” wire. Finally, mark the green or copper wire connected to the green screw terminal (on the other side of the switch from the brass and silver terminals) as the “grounding” wire.   If the box contains only a single cable (or single set of three wires), it means the switch is at the end of the circuit. You will see a black (hot) wire, a green or bare copper (grounding) wire, and a third (neutral) wire, which may be black, white, red, or any color other than green. Mark the wire connected to the brass screw terminal or to the hole on the same side as the brass terminal as the “hot” wire. Mark the wire connected to the silver screw terminal or to the hole on the same side as the silver terminal as the “neutral” wire. Finally, mark the green or copper wire connected to the green screw terminal (on the other side of the switch from the brass and silver terminals) as the “grounding” wire. Use needle-nose pliers to wrap a little more than half of the bare wire clockwise around the screw. Tighten the screw clockwise to secure the wire. You should...


Purchase a new power supply of the same type as the old one. Unpack the new power supply and make sure it physically fits correctly. Using proper ESD procedures, connect the devices in your PC to the new power supply. Verify that no cables or unused connectors are stuck in the CPU fan or touching other moving parts. Replace and fasten down the case cover. Replace all external connections to the back of the computer (power cord, mouse, keyboard, monitor, network cable, speakers, etc).

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Most power supplies used in modern computers are of the "ATX" variety, but if you aren't sure, take the old unit to the store with you to compare. The simplest rule of thumb is that the new unit should be exactly the same width as the old one. It's fine if the new unit is a bit longer, as long as it will still fit into your case. Do not hesitate to ask the salesperson or technician for help in identifying the correct unit to purchase. If the new unit has a large bottom mounted fan, the bottom rear bottom flange on some cases might get in the way. Add it to the case in the same place the old unit was, and use the mounting screws to fasten it down. The connections should be the same as they were before. It can require a bit of force to insert power connectors correctly, but if if you have to strain a great deal to push them in, you may be trying to connect them backward. It is very difficult to connect most Molex connectors improperly, but if you are determined (and strong) enough, it can be done. If you have to force too hard, try turning the connector around. If the CPU fan is stopped by a loose connector (or any other obstruction), the processor can be destroyed very quickly. You may wish to restrain unused cables to prevent them from getting tangled up in fans.  Power up the system and enjoy your new power supply. If your system doesn't start up correctly here, your failing power supply could have taken out the motherboard.


Purchase a package of gelatin sheets. Place the sheets into large, flat dish. Pour enough cold water to cover the sheets. Wait until the gelatin sheets "bloom. Prepare 2 cups (450 milliliters) of warm water while you wait. Lift the sheets out of the water and remove any excess moisture. Add the gelatin sheets to the hot water and stir until the dissolve. Pour the gelatin into a mold. Leave the gelatin in the refrigerator until it sets.

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You will need about 4 sheets of gelatin. This is equal to 1 tablespoon of powdered gelatin. You may also find these labeled as "leaf gelatin" or "gelatine." Something like a casserole dish or a baking pan will work great. May sure that the sheets are separated, and sitting right next to each other. You will be pouring water over them. If you don't separate them, they will stick together and not dissolve properly. You will need about 1 cup (225 milliliters) of water. Don't worry about making the measurement exact; you will be pouring this water away later. " They will expand slightly and become wrinkly. This will take about five to six minutes. Avoid leaving the sheets in the water for too long, or they will break down. Bring the water to a simmer in a pot. Have this water ready and close by. You will be adding the gelatin sheets to it once they bloom. You can do this by gently squeezing the sheets in your fist. Be careful not to break them. A spoon would work best for this, as the sheets may get caught in a fork or whisk. You can also pour it into some cups or small bowls instead. If you are using a mold, you can lightly grease the inside with some flavorless oil. This will make it easier to take the gelatin out o the mold. It will take about 4 hours for it to become firm.


Purchase a paint or tint specifically designed for use in resin. Mix the resin if you haven’t already. Pour a small amount of resin into a 1 fluid ounce (30 mL) mixing cup. Add your colorant so that it makes up 2%-6% of the mixture’s weight. Stir for about 1 minute, making sure there are no bubbles in the mixture. Adjust the amount of colorant you use to achieve your desired look. Repeat this process for the rest of your epoxy resin.

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While there are plenty of paints, inks, and tints available on the market, most are not specifically intended to be used to color resin. For best results, purchase a paint or tint designed to bond with resin and bring out particularly saturated colors.  A tint is an artificial dye used to change an object’s color. Examples of tints that are specifically meant to be used with resin include ResinTint and SO-Strong. You can buy resin tints online or at nearly any crafting store. You’ll need to mix your epoxy resin with a hardening agent before adding your colorant to it. Follow the instructions on your resin container to determine what is the proper ratio of resin to hardener you should use.  Be sure to wear eye protection (e.g., goggles) and rubber gloves to protect your eyes and skin during this procedure. If you’ve already mixed your resin and would like to color your leftover resin, you can skip this step. Before adding your colorant to all of your resin, you’ll want to test it with a small amount of resin to make sure it produces a color that you like. Use a mixing container that includes volume measurements on the side for easier measuring. For example, a small measuring cup used for dispensing cough syrup would work very well for testing resin colorants. Slowly add the paint, ink, or resin tint to the mixing container, using a toothpick or other small stick to stir the mixture as you go. You can roughly estimate how much to add to make up 2%-6% of the mixture’s weight, or use a digital scale to precisely weigh your colorant and mixture.  Avoid going over the 6% weight limit, as adding this much colorant might disrupt the delicate chemical process that takes place in resin and that is necessary for it to be properly used. There is no harm in adding so little colorant that it amounts to less than 2% of the mixture’s weight. However, this may not be enough colorant to produce a different color in your resin. If you’re not sure how much colorant to add, err on the side of adding less than you think you might...


Purchase a pair of high-quality hair scissors with short blades. Ensure that your hair is clean, dry, and straight. Section off hair to be made into bangs. Separate your bangs from the rest of your hair. Separate your bangs into three sections. Lightly pull your hair straight down before cutting. Cut into your bangs with small, upward motions. Cut straight across. Style the rest of your hair as you wish.

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The longer the blades, the less control you have, so aim for something on the shorter end. If the actual cutting part of the scissors is around 2.5 inches (roughly 6.5cm), that should work well.  Some stylists even recommend using cuticle scissors, but you will likely have more luck achieving this particular style of fringe (i.e. the blunt style) with a pair of scissors that are specifically designed for cutting hair. If you do use cuticle scissors, ensure that they are not curved, as this will likely make it more difficult for you to cut where you want to cut. Make sure it has no product in it. If it is naturally wavy, use a straightening iron on your bangs before you begin to cut them. If you already have bangs and are just looking to reshape them into Taylor Swift’s blunt look, ignore this step. Depending on the shape of your head and face, if you pull your bangs into a ponytail that drops down over your face, the part around your bangs (where you can see your scalp) will resemble a rounded triangle, with the wide base of the triangle being where your hairline meets your forehead.  Exactly how long (i.e. how far back on your head) and wide (i.e. how far it spans across your forehead) that triangle is depends on your facial shape. Look in a mirror and experiment with different lengths and widths until you find the section of hair that best works for you. Be very careful not to go too wide. If you’re unsure, start narrow and move outward. A good rule of thumb is to stick to the hairline on top of your head, and leave the hairline along the sides of your face alone.  Once you find a shape that you're happy with, tie it with an elastic to make a ponytail that hangs down the middle of your face. Pull down on the ponytail very gently (if you pull down hard, your hair will come out shorter than desired), and cut it so that your hair, when out of the ponytail, lands between your eyes and eyebrows (aim for somewhere in the middle). Ultimately you’ll want your bangs to be just at eyebrow level, but you don't want to...


Purchase a pair of mitten clips. Fasten each clip on each side of the hem of your jeans. Slip on your boot.

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If you aren’t familiar with these, they are basically little straps that are used to hold mittens onto coat sleeves so that the wearer doesn’t drop and lose them. You can sometimes find mitten clips at places like Target and Walmart, but you might have an easier time finding them online. You can purchase packs for cheap on websites like Amazon, or find homemade ones on craft websites like Etsy. The actual strap will be running under your foot. Adjust the clips to ensure they are comfortable and aren’t rubbing anything. If you are wearing jeans with a bit of flare or extra denim at the end, you can clip any extra denim into the clip to hold it securely.  Make sure your clips aren’t rubbing against your ankle bones. That will get uncomfortable very quickly. The band should be close to the middle of your foot. After your jeans are securely clipped and the band is looped under your foot à la stirrup pants, it’s time to put your boots on. These mitten clips will make this task much easier! You won’t have to worry about trying to maneuver your boots over your jeans without them bunching up, or awkwardly jamming your hand into your boots to smooth out your jeans. After you’ve put your boots on, make sure to walk around a bit at home before venturing out of the house. You’ll want to make sure the clips are comfortable and positioned correctly!


Purchase a phosphate fertilizer. Add the phosphate fertilizer to the soil. Add compost to the soil.

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Using a fertilizer will encourage your wisteria to blossom. You can find phosphate fertilizer from an online retailer, or you can find it in a local or a big box store. You could also try using bone meal (in spring) and/or rock phosphate (in fall). You should only do this in the early spring, such as April. When you have the fertilizer in your possession, read the instructions on the package and heed any warnings.  If you have plenty of time to fertilize, use a natural fertilizer and apply it to the surface of the soil. This method takes a longer time to release nutrients into the soil. If you are short on time to fertilize, use a water soluble fertilizer. This is a fluid solution that is dissolved in water and is sprayed onto the soil and the plants. Many times, when struggling to get a wisteria to bloom, too much nitrogen is the culprit. Adding phosphorus to the soil will balance the nitrogen already present in the soil and will encourage the wisteria to blossom. Each spring, you should add compost to the soil around the wisteria. Apply a two-inch covering of mulch on top of the compost. This will retain moisture and deter weeds from growing around the plant.  Wisteria grows best in fertile, moist, well-drained soil.  You can make your own compost or purchase compost from a gardening store. You can also make your own mulch.


Purchase a pillbox. Review your medication storage instructions. Place your daily pills in the pillbox. Refill the pillbox.

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Pillboxes can be a great organizational tool that will allow you to keep detailed track of which pills you need to take and when.  These pillboxes have multiple compartments which will hold your medications and make it clear when you need to take them and can make it obvious when you've missed any.   Many pillboxes will have room for at least a week's worth of medications. Some pillboxes will have multiple compartments for different times during a single day. Not all medications will be able to be stored in a pillbox.  These medications will have special storage instructions that you must follow in order to ensure that the medication is kept from expiring or otherwise degrading.  Medications that require refrigeration should not be kept in a pill box. Some medications cannot be exposed to light and may need to be kept in their original container. Once you have selected a pillbox that is best suited for your medical needs you can begin to place your medications in that pillbox's compartments.  Take your daily dosage of each medication that you take and place it in the appropriately marked container in your pillbox.  This will help keep your medications organized and allow you to keep track of which medications you've taken.  For example, a medication that is taken on Monday and Tuesday should be placed within the compartments that are label for Monday and Tuesday (Sometimes "Mon" or "Tues" or "M" or "T"). If your pillbox has containers for times of day, place those medications with specific usage times in those containers. Some pillboxes will allow you to make custom labels for the containers.  List the name of the medications you place in the container and the times of day you are to take them on your label. As you work through your pillbox, taking medications as scheduled, the pillbox will become empty as the week goes on.  This will allow you to see if you have missed any scheduled medications throughout the week or month.  However, when the pillbox is emptied, you will need to fill it back up with your...


Purchase a pillow insert. Insert the pillow through the overlap.

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You can get any size you want, but something around 16 or 18 inches (41 or 46 cm) would work the best for most home décor purposes. When measuring the pillow, be sure to measure across the front, from seam-to-seam. This method works the best for plain pillow inserts, like that you'd toss onto a couch. It is not suitable for box-type cushions that have a height dimension as well. Place the pillow on top of the cover. Pull the left overlapping edge over the left side of the pillow, and the right overlapping edge over the right side. Smooth the edges down in the back of the pillow so that they overlap nicely.


Purchase a plumber’s snake. Put on rubber gloves and goggles. Take the cover off of your shower drain.

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A drain or plumber’s snake, also known as an auger or a drain claw, is a long, coiled metal spiral that has a graspable handle on one end. Drain snakes can either be manual (in which case you’ll crank the handle yourself) or electric (which you can attach to a power drill). Both manual and electric plumber’s snakes should be readily available at your local hardware store or home-supply store. A snake will probably cost around $25 USD. Before you start snaking your shower drain, put on a pair of gloves (the kind you’d use when washing dishes or cleaning your bathroom). Pulling out months-old mats of soggy hair can be a gross task, and you also don’t want to risk cutting your fingers on the shower drain or snake. Wearing safety goggles isn’t mandatory when snaking a shower drain. However, it’s a smart idea, especially if you’ve recently tried to un-clog the drain with a chemical drain cleaner. Most shower drain openings are protected by a round, metal grate-like cover which prevents you from accidentally stepping into the drain. Your drain cover may simply fit by friction into its housing, in which case you can pry it out. Otherwise, if it’s screwed into place, use a screwdriver to remove the cover. If your shower doesn’t have a drain cover, you can skip this step.


Purchase a portable UV water purifier. Filter the water. Turn on the UV purifier. Submerge the purifier and stir.

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Portable UV water purifiers can be found online or at your local outdoor store. There are a few different models to choose from depending on what you are looking for. Things to consider are the amount of water you need to sterilize and the weight of the device.  You may be able to find a small UV pen that sterilizes water, such as the steriPen. If you are using the portable UV water purifier as your main sterilization while backpacking, make sure you have a secondary system (purification tablets or drops) in case the UV purifier fails or runs out of battery power. Before using a portable UV water purifier, you must ensure that your water is clear and free of particulate matter. This can easily be done by pouring the water through a piece of cloth such as a bandana. This will collect the dirt and result in clear water.  This step does no sterilization other than removing dirt from the water. It still must be sterilized with the UV light. In an emergency, you can double the treatment time to sterilize cloudy water. Turning on the purifier will depend on the specific model that you own, but it will likely be a button or switch. Different buttons will designate the amount of water you are purifying. There will be settings specific to half of a liter and one liter. It is not recommended to purify more than one liter of water at a time. Once the purifier is on, you can place it in the water bottle. Submerge the lamp of the purifier in the water and stir it around. The agitation of the water is important to ensure complete inactivation of any microorganisms present. If you do not see light coming from the lamp, the purifier has not been properly activated or is not working.  Always carry a backup water purification system in case one fails. Keep the purifier submerged until the light goes off. The purifier has a timer based on the amount of water you are purifying and will shut off automatically.


Purchase a pot that fits the tree's roots if replanting in a container. Pick a sunny spot to rehome the yucca either inside or outdoors. Dig a hole 2 times as deep and wide as the roots if replanting outside. Fill 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of your pot or hole with gravel and soil. Place the tree inside its new home and fill its pot or hole with soil. Water the plant lightly for about 10 seconds with a hose or watering can.

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Consider the size of the yucca plant as you look for a pot. You want to make sure the plant is stable and will not tip over.  Purchase a container at a home and garden store. Your pot should easily fit the roots of your plant and have some extra room for it to grow. Choose a location where the plant will get direct sunlight for most of the day. Yuccas grow best under full sunlight. Choose a spot for your potted plants, like near a window. You can also plan a spot for your outdoor yucca plant, like as a focal point in your lawn.  Yucca plants can live in all seasons and many climate zones. They are native to warm, dry areas, but many species adapt well to urban environments and cold climates. Yucca leaves are sharp. Keep the yucca plant away from sidewalks and high traffic areas so they don't cut anyone. If you have children or pets, pick a location away from their play area. If the yucca tree does not receive enough sunlight, the leaves will start to stretch and look wilted. To replant the yucca, grab a shovel and dig a hole in your lawn. The size of your hole will vary depending on the size of the tree. Make sure it is deep enough to fit your tree’s roots. Yucca plants can get damaged by over-watering, so it is important to keep your soil well-drained by using gravel. Pour gravel into your container or hole first, then sprinkle in a few inches of potting soil.  Purchase gravel and potting soil at a home supply or garden store. Make sure you use well-draining potting soil. Consider using cacti and palm soil blends, though they are not required. You can use sand as an alternative to help maintain soil drainage. Press down on the soil to get rid of any air pockets. Make sure the plant is straight and centered in its new pot. Watering the plants will help the roots take to their new soil. Yucca plants do not need much water, so lightly cover the base of the plant for a few seconds.  Water your plants again in about 10 days to 2 weeks. Touch the soil on top to determine when it needs to be watered. If the top 1–2...


Purchase a pot that has enough depth and width for your seeds. Choose a container made of concrete, wood, or glazed ceramic. Purchase potting soil if you don't want to mix your own. Create your own potting mix if you have the time. Test the pH of your soil. Loosen your soil prior to planting your spinach seeds.

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Growing spinach in a pot requires a depth of between 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm). In terms of width, it should be at least 14 inches (36 cm) in diameter. A pot with a diameter of 14 inches (36 cm) will hold 3 to 4 spinach plants. These materials allow for optimal food growth. Avoid porous materials like terracotta and unfired clay, as they can leach water-soluble chemicals through their surface. Never use pots that might be contaminated with lead or asbestos. For example, old containers are sometimes coated with lead-based paint. Prior to the 1970s, paints had high lead concentrations. This is often an easier option, but you won't have control over the ingredients. Use quality potting mix that is high in organic matter. The ideal texture is crumbly and loamy. Avoid soil that clogs drainage—well-draining soil is crucial for optimizing the growth of spinach in containers. If you're preparing your own potting mix, use 1/3 drainage material (grit, perlite, composted bark), 1/3 water-holding material (coir, peat, vermiculite), and 1/3 rotted down organic matter (manure, compost, worm castings).  Sprinkle 1⁄2 cup (120 ml) some organic sources of nitrogen such as soy meal or alfalfa meal into the center of the pot and claw it into the bottom of the soil. Top it with 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10.2 cm) of potting mix.  You can also add animal-based amendments like worm castings, fish meal, feather meal, or composted manure. Add 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 cup (59 to 118 ml) bat guano to the potting soil to provide it with high-quality nutrients. If you have a lot of pots to fill, it's usually less expensive to mix your own potting soil instead of buying a commercial potting soil. Spinach thrives in slightly alkaline soil with a pH between 6.5 and 7.5. If the acidity drops below 6.0, the spinach plant's leaves and stems may turn yellow. Add limestone to the soil to manually adjust pH levels.  If your soil is low in magnesium, add dolomitic limestone to raise pH. If your soil is high in magnesium, add calcitic limestone to raise pH.  You...


Purchase a quality leather conditioner. Squeeze the leather conditioner onto a clean cloth. Spread the conditioner over the surface of the leather. Condition your leather goods regularly.

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The oils in the conditioner will lubricate the porous leather, allowing it to flex and bend with your body with greater ease. And, unlike homespun oil treatments, they won’t compromise the durability of the material or leave behind a greasy patina.  If you’re willing to spend a little more money, you can also spring for a complete leather maintenance package. These kits often include other products that are useful for extending the lifespan of your leather goods, such as neatsfoot oil, leather milk, and protective beeswax for waterproofing. Avoid using natural alternatives like olive or coconut oil. While these can help relax leather in the short term, they have a tendency to absorb deep into the material. Over time, they can lead to permanent discoloration or more serious cracking and deterioration. Fold the cloth over the tip of your finger so that only one small corner is exposed. Use this corner to soak up a small amount of conditioner. That way, you can ensure that you’re getting just the right amount.  When it comes to leather products, less is more. You just want to treat the surface of the leather, not give it a bath.  Don’t apply the product directly to the leather. Not only is this a recipe for a giant mess, it also makes it harder to distribute the conditioner consistently. Rub the conditioner in smooth, wide strokes or circles, working your way slowly over a broader area. Aim for a single thin coating. The leather should have a faint sheen to it, but not appear wet or oversaturated.  Leather conditioners are safe enough to use on every part of the item’s exterior, but you could also focus your attention where it’s needed most, such as the elbows of a jacket or the toe or ankle area of a boot. There’s no need to rub on multiple coats. Any additional conditioner you apply will just accumulate on the surface. Repeat the process at least once every few months to keep your clothing and accessories in top shape. With each application, the stubborn material will grow more and more supple.  If you live...


Purchase a re-glazing kit. Use some lemon or baby oil to make your sink shine. Try using car wax to polish your sink and prevent scratches. Consider getting the porcelain re-glazed by a professional.

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Porcelain re-glazing is easily done at home, and is a great way to get the shine back in your sink with minimal effort. To use it, get the sink as clean as you can. Then rinse it and apply the glazing agent with a clean rag, lightly coating the entire sink. Follow the instructions provided with the glaze before using the sink again. Porcelain polish is sometimes sold as tile polishing and made for porcelain tiles. Simply apply a few drops of oil to a clean rag and use it coat the sink. This will prevent stains from sticking to it as easily and make the sink smell great at all times. You won't need much. Simply apply a little bit on a clean sponge and use it to coat the bowl of the sink. It will keep it clean and smelling great. Porcelain sinks are made by bonding porcelain to a cast-iron fixture, and they are incredibly durable when finished. As such, it is often worth the money to get a severely scratched or stained sink resurfaced, as this will protect it for many more years to come.


Purchase a recorder. Assemble the recorder. Learn how to hold the recorder.

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If you are a complete beginner, you can start by purchasing an inexpensive plastic recorder. Plastic recorders are usually used for teaching school children, as they require very little effort to maintain.  Once you have mastered the basics and you are still interested in playing, you can consider upgrading to a more expensive, wooden version. Wooden recorders tend to have a more pleasant tone than their plastic counterparts, but are considerably more difficult to care for. Both wooden and plastic recorders can be found at good musical instrument stores, or online. Recorders usually come in three parts, the top part which has the mouthpiece, the middle part with finger holes and the bottom part which has a bell shape. Gently twist the pieces together.  The bottom piece should be turned so the hole is slightly to the right when viewed as you would play it. Some recorders, typically those used in schools, are only one piece. Pick up the recorder and place the mouthpiece on your lips. Gently hold it between your lips and balance it with your fingers. Remember to put your left hand at the top.  The back side with one hole should face you. The front side should face away from you. Do not bite the mouthpiece or allow it to touch your teeth.


Purchase a refrigerator thermometer to test the temperature. Place the thermometer on the refrigerator’s middle shelf. Read the temperature on the thermometer after at least 5 hours. Adjust the temperature setting using the controls inside your refrigerator. Take the temperature reading again after at least 5 hours.

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Most refrigerators don’t have built-in thermometers, so get the next best thing. Pop it in whenever you need to check the temperature. Look for the stainless steel thermometers that are less likely to break than glass ones. Many of them hook onto the shelves in your refrigerator, making them very easy to set up.  You can get a refrigerator thermometer online or at most hardware stores. They are relatively inexpensive and the cost is well worth what you save by keeping your food fresher for longer. Most refrigerator thermometers also work in the freezer as well. Try to center the thermometer in the refrigerator as much as possible. The most basic thermometers stand up on their own, but you can also use the built-in clip to hang them on the front of the shelf. If you're using a stick-shaped thermometer, keep it in a glass filled with water. Keep in mind that refrigerators aren’t a consistent temperature all over. There are always some warm spots and some cold spots, so use the center shelf to get the most accurate reading possible. The temperature will give you an idea of what adjustments need to be made to keep your refrigerator running at top form. The ideal temperature is from 35 to 38 °F (2 to 3 °C). Anything 40 °F (4 °C) or below is considered safe. If you’re wondering why your lettuce is a frozen, soggy mess, your refrigerator is probably too cold. However, turning up the temperature too far could mean you encounter that dreaded odor of rancid milk. A good thermometer allows you to have more control over your refrigerator’s temperature. You might expect that all refrigerators are the same. While they all do the same thing, you never know what kind of temperature control dial you’re getting until you look inside. Locate the dial inside the refrigerator, then adjust it according to what type you have. Always make small, gradual adjustments rather than big changes that could throw the internal temperature out of whack. Check the owner’s manual if you’re not sure where the temperature dial is. It is often...


Purchase a respected book for studying the language. Use online sources to help you grasp the basics. Learn the Arabic alphabet. Learn some basic words. Make vocabulary flashcards. Learn the basic sentence structure. Understand how to ask questions. Learn some common phrases.

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Arabic is very different than English, so it is important to have some kind of grammar book to assist you in your language education, especially if you are a beginner learner of the language. Here are a few books to consider to help you learn the foundational elements of Arabic grammar:   Teaching and Learning Arabic as a Foreign Language: A Guide for Teachers by Karin C. Ryding. This book was published by Georgetown University Press in 2013.   The Arabic Alphabet: How to Read and Write It by Nicholas Awde and Putros Samano.   Easy Arabic Grammar by Jane Wightwick and Mahmoud Gaafar. It was published by McGraw Hill in 2004.   Arabic Verbs and Essentials of Grammar by Jane Wightwick and Mahmoud Gaafar. This text was published by McGraw Hill in 2007. There are many online tools available to help language learners get the information they need. While there are many heralded programs that can cost and arm and a leg (like Rosetta Stone), there are also quite a few online tutorials that offer guidance at no cost. Here are a few of the most reputable free online Arabic language learning sources:  Salaam Arabic, hosted by Pangaea Learning, offers free online tutorials in learning Arabic. The lessons are broken down by category: Numbers, Days, Greetings, Religion, Subject Pronouns, etc. There are even some grammar sections for beginner and intermediate learners.  Arabic Speak 7 provides online grammar training in Arabic at no cost. Their program includes extensive lists of verbs, pronouns, and other useful words/phrases with clear English instructions.  Madinah Arabic offers free online Arabic instruction with a focus on numbers, vocabulary, and situational Arabic. They also feature a discussion forum where you can ask questions of the more advanced members of the community when you need additional help understanding something. Arabic letters and text and read horizontally from right to left (the opposite of English and other European languages). Some sounds/letters that exist in the English alphabet can't be found in...


Purchase a salt mix made for reefs. Fill a bucket with 4 US gal (15 L) of distilled water. Pour in the amount of salt mix as specified in the instructions and stir. Test the water with a hydrometer until the specific gravity is 1.025. Submerge a pump and heater to circulate and heat the water. Let the water circulate and heat overnight. Test the specific gravity again the next day.

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Synthetic saltwater mixes simulate the mix of chemicals that occur naturally in the ocean. You can purchase a large container of salt mix online or from stores that specialize in marine life. Don’t use table salt. Table salt only contains sodium rather than the necessary mix of chemicals. Use distilled water since tap water could contain silicates that create algae and dirty your tank. Make sure the bucket is not filled to the top since adding salt will raise the water level. If you do not have marine life yet, you can mix the water directly in the tank. After you add fish or coral, you need to mix saltwater in a separate container. Each salt mix will have a different ratio of cups per gallon. A good baseline is ½ cup (150 g) per 1 US gal (3.8 L) of water. Follow the instructions carefully if they are different. As you add the mix, stir it with a wooden spoon to help it dissolve faster. Purchase a hydrometer online or from a store specializing in saltwater aquariums. Dip the hydrometer in the water until it fills up. Tap it on a level surface and let it rest for 10 seconds. Look where the arrow is pointing to determine the specific gravity.  If the specific gravity reads lower than 1.025, add ½ cup (150 g) of the salt mix and test the water again. If it reads higher, add 1⁄4 US gal (0.95 L) of distilled water. Specific gravity measures the density of the water compared to pure water. It is an indirect measurement of salinity that hydrometers read. Position the pump so it creates turbulence and movement on the surface of the water. This helps the water aerate. Then drop the heater in the water, making sure the thermostat is set to the same temperature as your aquarium, which should be 70–80 °F (21–27 °C). Keep the pump and heater running throughout the night for at least 6 hours. This gives enough time for the salt mix to completely dissolve and reach the correct temperature. Cover the bucket with a lid so contaminants don't fall into the water. Use the hydrometer to see if the specific gravity has changed....


Purchase a scrapbook to use. Find a notebook with a saying about friends on it. Decorate a plain cover.

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You can simply buy a scrapbook at many craft stores. Most craft stores have a scrapbook section that sells large, decorative scrapbooks that contain colorful pages. Some scrapbooks are made for a particular purpose. A best friends scrapbook may be sold with pages for things like vacations, birthdays, and so on. This can come in handy if you're not the crafty type, as a lot of work is done for you. If you prefer to do your own thing creatively, using a large notebook instead gives you a lot more freedom in terms of how you want to decorate and set up the pages. Many notebooks have quotes on the cover about friendship. Find a notebook with a quote about friends or friendship that describes your relationship with your friend. If you love decorating, go for a plain cover and decorate it yourself. Adding a few photos and craft supplies to a plain cover can result in a truly custom-made scrapbook.  Write in calligraphy. You can either teach yourself to write in calligraphy via online tutorials or print out calligraphy letters online. You can write something like "BFFs" or you and your friend's name in calligraphy. Add embellishments like bows, glitter, and decorative tape in your friend's favorite colors. Glue a picture of the two of you on the cover. You can use decorative tape or cardboard paper to create a cute frame for the photo.


Purchase a serrated knife sharpening tool. Locate the side of your knife with a beveled edge. Place the sharpening rod in one of the serrated scallops ("gullets"). Move the rod to match the gullet's diameter. Sharpen the first gullet. Check for a burr. Continue sharpening each groove on the blade. File away all the burrs. Sharpen any straight-edged portion of the blade.

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Serrated knives need different sharpeners than straight-edged blades. Most serrated knife sharpeners are rod-shaped, usually with a taper to accommodate different sized serrations. Serrated knives generally do not look the same from both sides. On one side, the face of the blade will continue at the same angle until the blade's edge. On the other, the face of the blade will angle down slightly just before the serrated edge; this is called the bevel. Only apply a sharpening tool to the beveled edge. Choosing an angle is easier for serrated blades, because you can use the angle of the bevel as a guide. This is typically between 13 and 17 degrees compared to the edge of the blade, which is shallower than you may be used to sharpening knives.  If the knife also has a straight edge portion, the bevels are usually ground to the same angle — about 20 to 25 degrees.  If you want a better guide, draw on the gullets with permanent marker. You'll know you're hitting them at the right angle if the marker is removed. If your sharpening rod is tapered, locate the rod in the gullet at the point where the rod's diameter is the same size as the gullet's, or slightly smaller. Run the sharpening rod along the first groove in several short strokes. Push in one direction away from the edge of the blade, toward the spine. Rotate the rod as you push it for a more even grind. Push only to the point of the rod with the same diameter as the gullet, to avoid enlarging the gullet. Run your fingers along the backside of the groove to check for a "burr," or metal shavings. As soon as you can feel a burr, you have sharpened the groove sufficiently. This often only takes a few strokes. Try running your fingernail along the back edge. If you feel it catch, there's a burr. If the knife's serrations are different sizes, adjust the position of the tapered sharpening rod so that the rod just fills the groove. The burrs are the metal shavings that you filed off when sharpening the blade. To remove them, rub the back of the knife against a sheet...


Purchase a set of Coach Cleaner and Moisturizer. Apply a small amount of the cleaner using a clean, soft cloth. Wipe off any existing residue. Apply the Coach Leather Moisturizer to restore luster and shine to the newly cleaned leather.

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You can get it from your local Coach store or from Coach's website. This will work for the following collections:  Soho Buck Leather Soho Vintage Leather Legacy Buck Leather Hamptons Buck Leather Polished Calf Leather English Bridle Leather Rub the cleaner into the leather using gentle, circular motions. Allow the purse to dry for at least 30 minutes. Rub the moisturizer onto the leather using a clean, dry cloth. Wipe off the residue and buff the leather with a clean cloth.


Purchase a set of touch-up markers. Color in the scratch with the marker. Buff the color in with a soft cloth.

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Small scratches in laminate furniture can be easily minimized by using specially designed touch-up markers. These markers are often packaged along with laminate furniture, but you can also find them at hardware stores and office supply stores that sell laminate office furniture. They are often sold in sets, but you should try to match the marker's color to your wood tone if you can purchase the markers individually. Use the touch-up marker in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Usually this will involve simply rubbing the marker's tip along the scratch a few times to fill it in. After some of the marker's ink has been deposited into the scratch, rub the area gently with a soft, clean cloth. This will help blend the color into the surrounding wood and will remove any excess ink.


Purchase a silicon button mold and a resin kit. Prepare your work surface. Mix your resin according to the package. Pour the resin into the mold. Wait for the resin to cure. Pop the resin button out of the mold.

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You can find them online and in well-stocked craft stores. Resin typically needs a catalyst to set. Some resin kits include this catalyst; the bottles are usually labeled "Part A" and "Part B." If you bought the resin just by itself, check the label to see if it needs a catalyst. If it does you will need to purchase it separately.  You can find basic, clear resin in an arts and crafts store. Read up on the type of resin you are buying. Some types of resin turn opaque after they cure. Others turn a different color. Resin sets quickly, so have everything laid out and ready to go. Choose an area with adequate ventilation. Next, cover your work surface with newspaper or a cheap tablecloth. Put on a pair of gloves. Set out you stir sticks, button mold, and any additives. This includes things like resin dyes, glitter, and confetti. High-humidity levels can sometimes affect curing times or cause resin to cure improperly. Plan on making your buttons on a dry day. Most resins come in two parts, and need to be mixed in a 1:1 ratio. Some resins are different however, so be sure that you read the mixing instructions carefully. If you don't use the correct amounts, the resin may not cure properly. Typically, however, you will need to pour Part A and Part B into separate mixing cups, then pour Part A into Part B, then stir it together with a stick  If you wish to dye the resin, do so during this step. Follow the instructions on the dye package, as each brand may be different. If you plan on making a lot of buttons, consider mixing only small amounts of resin at a time. Resin sets quickly, and it may harden before you finish filling all of the molds. Hold the cup close to the mold, and pour the resin in slowly. This will help prevent splatters and air bubbles. Do not overfill the mold. If you do, you will end up covering the button holes.  If there are any air bubbles, gently blow on the resin.  Consider adding some glitter or confetti into the resin after you pour it into the mold. If you need to, use a toothpick to stir...


Purchase a silver polish. Consider using common household products for less rare or less valuable pieces. Try a silver dip.

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When tarnish develops on silver, a simple salt and aluminum bath may not suffice to remove it. Specially formulated silver jewelry polishes are your safest option for polishing silver jewelry, especially if you are dealing with an antique or a piece that has intricate designs etched into it.  Even special polishes can remove a layer of silver, so get a professional cleaning if you're dealing with a delicate piece. Instead of buying silver polish from the drugstore, consider getting it from a jewelry store or a store with a high-quality jewelry department. They will usually work to remove tough tarnish, but may cause damage such as pock marks or scratches. Try them at your own risk.  Try toothpaste. Select a plain white toothpaste without the special whitening options. Take a soft, dampened cloth or a damp sponge and put some toothpaste on it. Gently rub over the silver jewelry in straight, back-and-forth motions. Be very gentle, and if you notice scratching at any point, stop and rinse the toothpaste off. As the cloth or sponge becomes dark with tarnish, add more toothpaste to a clean part of the dampened cloth/sponge and continue gently polishing. Rinse thoroughly with warm water and dry with a soft towel. Baking soda may remove stubborn tarnish, but don't use it unless you don't mind the risk of damaging the silver. Make a paste of baking soda and warm water, gently rub it into the surface of the jewelry, and rinse when the tarnish is removed. Commercial silver "dips" can dissolve stains without rubbing the silver jewelry, although they may take off a layer of silver. For this reason, they should only be used as a last resort. Contrary to what the word "dip" implies, professionals rarely actually soak silver in these products, at least not for long. Dips are generally harsh, potentially dangerous chemicals, so follow the directions carefully and consult a professional when in doubt.


Purchase a singing bowl. Hold the singing bowl and grasp the mallet. Rub the mallet clockwise.

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You can purchase a metal or crystal singing bowl online. You can also visit your local apothecary; they might have singing bowls for purchase. A singing bowl sings when you run a felt-tipped mallet around the bowl’s edges. The vibrations produced by the bowl can slow down your breathing, heart rate, and brain waves. This can produce a deep sense of calm and well-being. In the palm of your hand, hold the singing bowl. Then, grasp the mallet at mid-length with your palm facing downward, i.e., with all your fingertips facing downward and touching the wood. Gently tap the side of the singing bowl with the mallet. This is called warming up the bell. Hold smaller singing bowls, i.e., seven inches and under, on your fingertips. Using a full arm movement, like stirring a big pot, rub the mallet clockwise along the outside edge of the bowl’s rim. Use even pressure as you rub the mallet on the outside edge of the bowl’s rim. Make sure the mallet is positioned vertically, i.e., straight up and down.  It is not a wrist movement, but a full arm movement. Remember to apply pressure. The friction of the mallet against the singing bowl’s outer rim is what produces the vibration and the sound. Try not to go too fast. Let the sound build up slowly as the bowl picks up the vibrations.


Purchase a small bottle of brake cleaner. Take a heavy-duty paper towel and fold it into a small square. Go over the stain with the brake cleaner. Repaint the area if necessary.

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This can be bought at any auto accessory store or superstore like Walmart in the automotive section. Brake cleaner is designed to absorb and erode oil, dirt, rust and stray paint, so if you need a higher-powered solution to your egg stain problem, it will likely do the trick.  Caution: Brake cleaner is a toxic, corrosive and potentially flammable solution. Exercise care when using brake cleaner fluid at home. If applied improperly or left on too long, it could cause considerable damage to your car's paint. Create a compact, thick pad to use to apply the brake cleaner. Spray some cleaner onto the paper towel in an area slightly larger than a half-dollar. You can apply more later if you need to. Paper towels are optimal when working with brake fluid as they can be disposed of. Avoid using a towel that you might reuse as the brake fluid is toxic and mildly corrosive. Make your motions smooth but firm. Wipe away as much of the stain as you can, reapplying more brake cleaner as needed. The impact and hardening of the egg stain may have chipped the paint, or the brake cleaner might have taken some paint off. Buy a small bottle of finishing paint from your dealership in the right color and touch up the areas where the paint is faded. If you want your paint to look best, the mechanics at your car's dealership can touch up your car professionally for a small fee.


Purchase a snow globe kit online or from a craft store. Construct the snow globe.

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There are many different kits available, some which allow you to simply slot in a photograph, some which require you to sculpt your own clay figurines, and others which provide you with a water globe, base and other materials for making a professional-looking snow globe. Once you have your kit, follow the instructions on the packaging to put it together. Some will require you to paint the parts and glue the figurines to the base. Once the scene is set, you will usually need to glue the glass (or plastic) dome to the base and then fill the dome with water (and snow or glitter) from a hole in the base. You will then use the stopper provided to seal the snow globe.


Purchase a specialty cleanser.

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Hardware stores and some grocery stores will carry cleaners specifically designed for a glass top stove. Some products are available as a pourable liquid, while others come in a spray bottle. Choose whichever type of product you prefer.


Purchase a suede protective spray. Ensure the boot is clean. Seal the suede. Avoid wearing the boots in wet weather. Maintain the nap.

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Experts recommend a water and stain protector formulated specifically for suede. Water can be damaging to suede and eventually change the color and texture, but a protective spray will prevent this from happening. This can be purchased online through Amazon or from a big box store like Target or WalMart. Before using the spray, ensure that the boot is clean. An optimal time to do this is right after purchasing or receiving the boots, before even wearing them once. This way, you will be prepared for the elements and do not have to worry about cleaning them beforehand. Hold the spray bottle about six to eight inches away from the surface of the boot. It should come out of the bottle as a mist. Spray the boot all over with the protective spray, ensuring that you cover the entire surface of the boot. You only need to lightly spray the boot; too much could affect the boot’s texture or color. The protective spray should prevent the boots from becoming ruined by water or snow. However, on days when it is especially rainy, it is best to avoid wearing the boots altogether. If they do get wet, let them dry naturally, away from any sources of heat. When they are dry, brush them well with a suede brush. Purchase a special suede brush to use to brush out the nap, otherwise known as the surface of the suede. This will buff out any minor scuffs and help the shoes retain their soft, pleasant texture. Suede brushes are relatively inexpensive so it may be in your best interest to purchase one in order to keep your shoes looking their best.  Suede brushes are available at stores like Target or department stores like Macy’s. Before brushing the shoes, stuff them with crumpled newspapers. This will help the shoe retain its shape. Gently brush the nap in the direction of the fibers. You can tell which direction the fibers are going in if you run your fingers or hands along the surface and see which way the fibers lay the flattest. Once this is established, brush in that direction.


Purchase a thick plywood. Cut the plywood in half. Arrange eight pieces of wood to form a frame under your tabletop. Nail your frame together. Nail the frame to the plywood. Attach a four foot long piano hinge to the center. Mount folding legs to the bottom of the table.

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A thick piece of plywood will add stability to your table. Buy a 4x8 foot (1.2x2.4 meter) piece of plywood, which will become the surface of your table. When looking for plywood, look for variations that are a 1/2 an inch (12.7 millimeters) or 3/4 of an inch (19.05 millimeters) thick. Measure four feet from the end of either side of the table, lengthwise, and make a mark with a pencil in the center. Use a straight edge to draw a line width-wise on the plywood. The line in the center of your plywood will be where the table folds. Use a circular saw, miter saw, or table saw to cut your plywood in half. Set your two tabletops on the ground with the top of the table facing down. Arrange planks of wood around the outer edges of your plywood to create the frame. Because each piece of your table top measures 4x4 feet (1.2x1.2 meters), the frame under your plywood must also be 4x4 feet. Create two frames for each side of your tabletop. Make sure that the plywood and the planks of wood run flush on all four sides. Once your frame is the right size, you can set your plywood to the side.  If your wooden planks are too long, then you may need to cut them down with a saw. The frame will look like a shallow wooden box on top of your plywood. You can purchase the framing lumber at most hardware stores. For this project, a 2" x 6" (38 x 140 mm) piece of lumber could work for framing material. Once the frame is set up, nail the pieces together so that it forms two frames that are 4x4 feet (1.2x1.2) meters big. Put two nails in each corner of your frame, attaching the two pieces of wood together to form an L. Once all sides of your frame have been nailed together, you should have a square made out of your lumber. Position the plywood over your frame and make sure that the edges run flush. Once it's in the correct position, put nails or screws into the surface of your plywood, attaching the frame to the plywood. You may need to put multiple nails along the surface of the plywood to safely secure the top of the table to the...


Purchase a titration test kit. Take a water sample from your pool at elbow depth. Add 2 drops of the sodium thiosulfate. Put in 5 drops of the alkalinity indicator and swirl the tube. Add the sulfuric acid reagent 1 drop at a time until the liquid turns red. Multiply the number of drops by 10.

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Titration test kits are a thorough measurement system for testing the alkalinity in your pool. They can be purchased in pool specialty stores or online. You can also use alkalinity test strips, though they do not have an accurate reading system. Dip the tube provided in the kit into the water. Pulling water from this depth ensures that the water has not been altered by anything in the air or by sunlight. You only need 25 millilitres (0.85  fl oz) to complete the test. Remove any excess water from the tube. Squeeze the tube gently so you don't use too many drops. An incorrect amount of sodium thiosulfate will alter the results. Make sure the mixture is swirled around so the water and chemical are mixed thoroughly. You'll notice the water change colors from clear to green. Keep swirling the tube until the color is consistent throughout the tube. After each drop, mix the water. Count the number of drops you add to the water. Once the solution turns red, stop adding sulfuric acid. Wear gloves as you handle the sulfuric acid in case you spill. This will give you the parts per million (ppm) of alkalinity in your pool water. A pool should be between 80-100 ppm. Anything lower could affect the pH of the pool while anything higher could cause scaling to develop. If your alkalinity is higher than 100 ppm, do not add baking soda to the water. Instead, add muriatic acid or sodium bisulfate.


Purchase a toner for your hair. Apply the toner Leave the toner on for the time recommended on the bottle. Rinse the toner out, then follow up with a hydrating mask. Let your hair air dry and avoid heat styling it for 3 to 4 weeks. Keep your hair moisturized with weekly deep conditioning masks. Trim your hair every 5 to 6 weeks to remove split ends.

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You may be able to use a purple or blue toning shampoo to remove any orange or yellow tones from your hair, but if you want platinum-blonde hair, then you need to mix the toner with 20 or 30 volume developer. Each brand of toner will be a little different, so read the instructions on the bottle to find out how to use it and mix it. to your hair with a clean tinting brush. You don’t need to section off your hair for this; just create horizontal or vertical parts using the handle of a tinting brush, then brush the toner on starting from the roots. If you are using a toning shampoo, you'll have to get your hair wet, then apply it just like you would normal shampoo. In most cases, this will be around 10 to 20 minutes. The toner will start to change color from white to purple. Do not be alarmed; this is perfectly normal.  If you are using a toning shampoo, then you'll probably only need to leave it on for about 5 to 10 minutes. Toner can stain, so it would be a good idea to cover your hair with a plastic shower cap. Bleaching is a damaging process on its own, but when combined with African American hair, it is even more damaging. A hydrating mask will help repair some of that damage by hydrating and nourishing your hair.  Avoid anything that contains sulfates. They won't affect the color of your hair, but they can make your hair feel more dry. You can use a natural mask too; it does not have to be store-bought. This is important. Bleaching and heat styling are damaging enough to hair already on their own, but if you combine them, you'll be damaging your tresses even more!  When you do heat style your hair, make sure that it is completely dry first. Apply a heat protectant and use a lower heat setting. Blow drying counts as heat styling. Consider letting your hair air dry part-way first, then style it with the hairdryer. Remember to use a heat protectant! You are probably already in the habit of moisturizing your hair, but you need to be especially diligent about it after you bleach it. A protein-free moisturizing...


Purchase a tube bender. Follow the instructions. Select the appropriate-size die for the tubing you need to bend. Place the tubing into the bender. Measure the correct angle. Bend the tube to your desired angle. Practice with scrap tubing.

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Your local hardware store will have a variety of tube benders available at different price points. The major differences may include the amount of hydraulic force the bender can apply to the tube as well as the size and durability of the accompanying die set.  The dies are curved pieces you attach to the bender and into which you place the tubing to form the bend. The different dies will correspond to different diameters of tubing. Additionally, you can find die sets for either round or square tubing. Ensure that you buy a tube bender and not a pipe bender. Tube and pipe are not synonymous, and the scaling is even different, so the dies in a pipe bending set will not properly fit tube. This usually leads to flattening, buckling, or kinks in tube bent with a pipe bender. As always, specific machinery may have specific steps due to design or other requirements. Thoroughly consult the directions that come with your equipment. For instance, if you need to bend 1” tubing, then you would select the 1” die. Using the correct die is very important. If the tubing doesn’t fit snugly into the die, then you can end up with a flattened or kinked finished product. Once you attach the die, you will feed the tube into the bender so that the spot where you want to bend is in the center of the die. You will then tighten down the bender, which will have a pneumatic jack, enough to keep the tubing in place. You cannot set the bender to a specific degree angle for you and let it do the rest, so this means measuring the exact angle to which you need your tube bent. The easiest solution is to use a digital angle gauge, which you can attach to the level tube before you begin bending. As you incrementally bend the tube, the angle gauge will track the measurement of the angle. As you increase the force in the bender, the tube will bend to sharper angles. Once your angle gauge has measured the angle you want, you can release the pressure on the tube and remove it from the machine. Since using too much force can still lead to kinks in a...


Purchase a wax stick. Run the wax stick along the gouge. Remove the excess wax from the scratch.

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Wax sticks can be purchased at hardware stores, where they are sold for use in patching deep scratches and gouges in wood furniture. They are often available in multiple shades, so you should try to match the wax stick to the wood's existing finish. Applying firm pressure, run the wax stick lengthwise along the deep scratch. As you do this, the scratch should fill in with wax. You may need to make several passes for very deep or awkwardly shaped gouges. When the cut is completely filled with wax, drag a putty knife (or the edge of a credit card) across the surface of the wood to remove any wax that is sitting above the surface. Allow the wax to dry and then buff it with a soft cloth.


Purchase a waxing kit from the store. Wash your back with soap and water. Prepare the wax according to the product’s instructions. Coat a small area of the back with the wax. Press a waxing strip into the wax. Jerk the hair out quickly. Repeat the process of applying and removing the wax and strips. Wash with an antibacterial soap when you're done.

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You can find these at most department and cosmetic supply stores.  There will probably be many different varieties of available. All other things being equal, hot waxing kits work tend to work best for the back because they can cover a larger area.   Note: Waxing will leave your back red and sensitive, so start this method at least 24 hours before you want to show it off. This is usually easiest in the shower. This is an important step — the wax has a much easier time grabbing your hair if it is free of sweat and oil. After showering, be sure to dry your back thoroughly. For most hot waxes, you'll need to heat the wax up (usually in the microwave). The temperature of the wax should be warm, but not painfully hot. Different products will have slightly different sets of instructions. Use the included waxing stick (or a clean spatula) to spread the wax in the direction of hair growth. Work in small patches of no more than a few inches around at once. While the wax is still hot, firmly press the paper or fabric strips into the wax. Let the strip sit for for a few moments to allow it to stick. Pull the strip in the against the direction of hair growth. This is the opposite of the direction you applied the wax. Use a quick, fluid motion. Don't go slowly — this will hurt. To reduce pain, do not pull straight up or up at an angle. Keep the strip close to the body as you pull in a direction parallel to the skin and pull as quickly as possible. Continue until all of the hair on the back has been removed. This will take many applications. Don't be afraid to take breaks if the pain becomes too much. Future waxings tend to hurt less than the first. If the pain is ever unbearable, stop — burning or injuring yourself isn't worth worrying about uneven back hair. After you finish your waxing, your back is likely to be a little red and irritated. In this state, it's more vulnerable to infections than normal. To reduce this risk, wash it with soap. An easy way to do this is to simply take a shower.


Purchase a wood putty that matches the finish of your wood. Place painter's tape around the nail hole to protect the surrounding wood.

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Wood putty comes in a variety of shades to match different types of wood and finishes. Purchase a putty that matches your wood as closely as possible. To make this easy, take a picture of the wood to refer to when you are making your purchase. You can make your own wood putty by using sawdust from the wood and white wood glue. Poke a nail-sized hole in a piece of painter's tape using a screwdriver, utility knife, or another tool. Line up the tape over the nail hole. Gently press down on the tape to adhere it to the wood. Use more than one piece of tape if needed.


Purchase a wristband. Make your own wristband. Locate the pressure point on your arm. Correctly position the wristband.

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Anti-nausea wristbands are designed to apply pressure to the correct pressure point on your wrist. They usually have a knob or flat button positioned over the acupressure point. Several styles are available and are made from knitted fabric, plastic, or woven nylon. Choose a band based on your own preferences, budget, and sense of style. If you don't want to spend money on a band, you can put together one using a wristwatch or sweatband and a small stone or button. Simply place the stone or button underneath the band and secure. With your opposite hand, place 3 fingers below the crease of your wrist. Place your thumb right below them and center it in between the two large tendons. This is the pressure point. Specifically, you're looking for the P6, or inner gate, pressure point which relieves nausea. The same point on the opposite side of your arm is known as the P5, or outer gate. Make sure the knob, button, bead, or stone is directly covering the pressure point. Then, secure the band so you feel medium to firm pressure on that spot. The wristband should not slide or wiggle around your wrist, but be set firmly in place.  Make sure the wristband is not too tight. You should not feel pain; if you do, loosen the band. You might feel relief as soon as you put it on, but after your body grows accustomed to the pressure, you'll need to press down on the acupressure point for extra relief.


Purchase a zipper that is the correct size and style for your project. Pre-wash the zipper to prevent shrinkage.

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Zippers come in a wide variety of colors, styles, and sizes. Pick the one that works best for your project. If you can't find a zipper that is the perfect length, purchase a zipper that is slightly longer than the seam opening you want to put it in. This will give you some leeway in positioning the zipper and will help you avoid hitting the end stop of the zipper with your sewing needle, which would break it. This is only necessary if your zipper is made of natural materials. Simply follow package recommendations, as most zippers are made from man-made materials but some are made from natural fibers such as cotton.