Fill a large cooking pot with water. Cut up some fruit. Add herbs to the pot. Let the pot simmer. Brew a cilantro mint mix. Make a parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme mix. Make simmering cinnamon buns mix. Boil cinnamon and cloves.

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Place the pot on the stove. Turn on the stove on a medium to low setting. Let the water simmer. The fruit should be cut into quarter inch (6.35 millimeter) slices. You could use lemons, oranges, apples or other fruit of your choice. Use one piece of each fruit. Put the fruit into the pot. There is no specific amount of fruit to add to the mix. Add fruit until you get the smell you want to achieve. Once you have the pot simmering with a few fruit of your choice, go ahead and add some herbs. For instance, you could add some rosemary, cinnamon sticks, cardamom, basil or mint. Add a pinch or two of each of your favorite herbs. There is no specific amount of herbs to add for this recipe. The house will fill up with the fragrant smells of the fruit and herbs in the pot. You can use the same pot the next day but you will need to add more water.  The pot should be changed after three days. Keep an eye on the pot so you don’t burn it. Put a few drops of mint extract into a pot of simmering water. Add some dried cilantro. Once you get a desired intensity of aroma, stop adding cilantro. It will add a wonderful smell to your home. There is no specific amount of cilantro or mint for this recipe. Continue adding the ingredients until you get the desired intensity of aroma. Put a large pot on the stove and bring the water to a simmer. Add some parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme. Once you get the desired intensity of aroma, you can stop adding the herbs. Enjoy the fragrance. There is no specific amount of herbs to add. Keep adding herbs until you get the aroma you want. Bring a pot of water to a simmer. Add cinnamon sticks, vanilla extract, almond extract and nutmeg. Once you get the aroma you want, stop adding the herbs. Let the mix fill your house with the smell of fall. If you like, you can also add a bit of apple cider to the simmering water. Add a few sticks of cinnamon and some cloves to a simmering pot. The scent will freshen the air in your kitchen and throughout the entire house.


Fill a large pot with 2 cups (450 milliliters) of water and bring it to a boil. Set the seasoned rice aside for one hour. Prepare the mango. Scoop the rice onto four plates. Arrange the mango slices.

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Put the cover back on the rice pot, and place the pot some place where it won't be disturbed. This will give the rice enough time to soak up the flavors from the coconut milk mixture. Start by peeling the mango. If your mango is ripe enough, you should be able to nick the skin with your knife, then pull the skin off. Once you have the mango peeled, cut it in half and remove the seed. Cut the mango into thin slices. Repeat this step for the other two mangoes. You can create more servings than just four, but the portions will be smaller. You can set them down right next to the rice, or on top of the rice. If you are placing the slices on top of the rice, to overlap them to create a fan-like shape.


Fill a large pot with 4 quarts (3.8 liters) of water. Place the pot on the stove and bring it to a boil over high heat. Add 1 pound (450 grams) of pasta and 1 tablespoon of salt. Cook the pasta until it is al dente. Drain the pasta when it is done cooking. Run the pasta under cold water, then set it aside.

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You will make enough pasta to feed 4 to 6 people. If this is too much for you, you can cut the recipe in half. You can also store any leftovers in the fridge. Cheesy pasta will last about a week. If you want to add extras to your cheesy pasta, like ham or peas, you might want to start heating those up now. Any extras should already be cooked by the time you add them in at the end. You can save some time by starting to prepare your cheesy sauce. If you cook the sauce and the pasta together at the same time, your meal will be ready sooner. You can use any type you want, but textured shaped (such as corkscrews) will hold the sauce better. You might want to add in 1 to 2 teaspoons of some sort of cooking oil. This will help keep the pasta from sticking. Most packages will tell you how long this will take. It can be as little as 8 minutes, to as long as 12. Take the pot off the stove, and carry it over the sink. Pour the water and pasta through a colander or strainer. Once you have drained the pasta, keep it in the strainer, and run it under cold water for a few seconds. This will stop the pasta from cooking and turning mushy. Give the strainer a jiggle to get rid of any excess water, then set the pasta aside.


Fill a large pot with hot water. Submerge the empty, uncorked bottle in the hot water for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the bottle from the hot water and dry it off. Peel off the damp label using the edge of a utility knife. Allow the label to air-dry overnight.

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Boil enough water to fill a stockpot about 2/3 of the way up. Make sure you use enough water to completely cover the entire wine label once you set the bottle into the pot. You can use hot water from the tap instead, but it might not be as effective as just-boiled water. Stand up the bottle in the pot full of hot water. If necessary, add a little more water so that the top of the label is covered by the water. Leave it to soak for about 10 to 15 minutes or so. If desired, you can purchase a chlorinated soap from a wine store that’s designed to help to dissolve the adhesive. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions so you use the product correctly. Put on a pair of rubber kitchen gloves to provide some grip and protect your hands from the hot water. Use caution as you lift out the wine bottle as it will be hot. Dry off the outside of the bottle with a towel. Once the bottle is dry, slide the blade of a utility knife underneath one of the corners of the label. Once it starts to come loose, carefully peel up the rest of the label. Work slowly to avoid tearing the label.  The hot water soak will have softened up the adhesive, so you should be able to preserve the label in one piece. Be careful not to rub or scratch the damp paper as it will easily get damaged. Set the damp label on a piece of parchment paper face-down, if you want the adhesive to dry. Or, set it glue-side down onto a sheet of regular paper if you’d rather mount the label or preserve it in a journal. The moist glue will adhere to the paper. Leave the paper to air-dry overnight. If the label curls up while it dries, you can press it flat within the pages of a heavy book once it’s totally dry.


Fill a large stockpot half-full with cold water. Salt and season the water if you wish to flavor the crab legs. Turn the heat up high until the water begins to boil. Submerge the crab legs in the water. Reduce the heat to medium and wait for the water to boil again. Boil the crab legs for 5 to 7 minutes until they are heated through.

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The amount of water you need will depend on the stockpot you’re using. A basic stockpot takes about 24 cups (5,700 mL) of water, but adjust the amount as needed. This will be enough to cook about 4 lb (1.8 kg) of king crab legs. Make sure the crab legs are completely submerged in the water or else they may not cook evenly. If your stock pot is too small, cook the crab legs in batches or use multiple pots. For example, start with 1 tablespoon (17.06 g) of salt and stir it into the pot of water. Then, mix in 2 tablespoons (34.12 g) of store-bought seafood seasoning. You could mix in herbs like parsley and dill, put garlic and lemons in the pot, or customize the flavor however you wish. The salt is useful for seasoning the crab legs and getting them to cook at a more uniform rate. Even if you don’t plan on adding anything else, the salt is worth adding. Set your stove to a high setting and wait. Watch for the water to bubble at a consistent rate. It will take a little bit of time, so don’t rush to turn down the heat. The water has to be boiling before you put the crab legs into the pot. If it isn’t boiling, you will have a much harder time determining when the crab legs are done cooking. Drop the crab legs into the water, taking care to avoid splashes from the hot water. Use tongs to push the crab legs down and tuck them into the water as much as possible. Try to keep them completely covered by the water before letting them cook.  Any parts that are out of the water won’t get cooked. If you want the legs to cook at the same rate, keep them submerged. If you can’t fit all of the legs into the pot, save some of them to cook later. Adding the crab legs reduces the water temperature, so it won’t be bubbling anymore. Wait a couple of minutes until it begins to bubble rapidly again. Once it reaches that point, it will quickly cook the crab legs at an even rate. Plan on simmering the crab legs until they’re done. Check the water for tiny, consistent bubbles and wisps of steam. Start the timer once the water reaches...


Fill a lidded container with 12 oz (355 mL) of drinking water. Add 1 tbsp (14.3 g) of chia seeds to the container and replace the lid. Shake the container, then let it sit for 10 minutes. Add lime juice and agave nectar to the container. Shake the container, then drink the contents.

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The container needs a lid as you will be shaking the drink to mix the chia seeds and water. A glass Mason or Ball jar works well for this, but you could also use a water bottle or Tupperware, then transfer the drink to a cup or glass. You could use coconut water instead of plain water, if desired. The chia seeds will absorb the water and swell significantly. You can increase or decrease the amount of chia seeds you add based on your personal preferences. Ensure the lid is tightly sealed so the container doesn’t leak. Shake the container thoroughly to distribute the chia seeds. Allow the chia seeds to soak for 10 minutes to absorb the water. Remove the lid from the container. Roll one lime on the countertop with your palm to break the sections inside it. Cut the lime in half and squeeze each half over the jar. Then add ¼ tsp (1 mL) of  agave nectar, honey, or another sweetener, if desired. Be sure to replace the lid before shaking the container. The chia seeds will have a gel-like consistency, which may take some getting used to.


Fill a measuring cup with 2-cups (473.176 ml) of water. Spoon peanut butter into the measuring cup. Subtract 2 cups (473.176 ml) from the water measurement.

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Peanut butter is hard to measure in a traditional liquid measuring cup because it's sticky and tends to ball up. If you fill up a container with water first, you can measure the amount of peanut butter without having to level it out. Fill up a measuring cup made for liquids with 2-cups (473.1 ml) of water. If you don’t want the peanut butter to stick to the spoon or spatula that you’re using, spray it down with non-stick cooking spray, butter, or oil beforehand. Otherwise, just add peanut butter to the water in the measuring cup. The peanut butter will cause the water to rise in your measuring cup. Once the water rises to the 3-cups (709.7 ml) mark, you’ll have 1-cup (236.58 mg) of peanut butter. Continue to scoop the peanut butter into the measuring cup until you have the amount you need.


Fill a microwave-safe pie plate with a single layer of walnuts. Cook the nuts in 1 minute intervals until done. Stir the walnuts in between intervals.

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Any microwave-safe plate will work, but a pie plate is especially useful since it has raised sides. Keep the nuts to a single layer for even toasting and make sure that the "x" marking made in the shell is not covered by other nuts or facing the bottom of the dish. The walnuts should be cooked on full power, and it will usually take several intervals before they finish toasting. The shells will not deepen in color like they do when toasted in the oven or on the stove, but they will become fragrant and the shell should begin to peel slightly at the cut part of the "x." Stirring the nuts allows them to toast evenly. Keep as many “x” marks showing even after you stir the nuts, but if the marks become covered, the nuts should still toast without much problem.


Fill a muffin tin or several squeeze bottles with cornstarch. Add a few drops of food coloring into each well or bottle. Fill each well or bottle the rest of the way with water. Mix the cornstarch and water until you get an even consistency. Adjust the mixture, if necessary. Use the paint.

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Fill each well or bottle halfway with cornstarch. If you see any clumps, break them up with a fork or by shaking the bottle.  A muffin tin will act like a paint palette. You will need a paintbrush to use the paint. It is great for painting pictures. A squeeze bottle will allow you to squirt the paint out onto the sidewalk. It is great if you want to create random designs. The more food coloring you use, the brighter or darker your chalk will be. You can fill each well or bottle with the same color. You can also fill each well or bottle with a different color. To make scented liquid sidewalk chalk: mix 1 envelope of a powdered fruit drink with 1 cup (240 milliliters) of water. You will be adding this mixture to the cornstarch in the next step. Skip the food coloring, as the fruit juice will be enough to give the chalk some color. If you are making the scented version, pour your drink mixture into each well or bottle.  Try to use equal parts water and cornstarch. For a thicker paint, use one part water to one-and-a-half parts cornstarch. If you are making the liquid sidewalk chalk in a muffin tin, use a fork. If you are making the liquid sidewalk chalk in a squeeze bottle, close the bottle tightly and shake it. Make sure that there are no clumps. The color should be even once you are done mixing. A thicker paint will be easier to paint with, but a thinner paint will be easier to squirt out of a squeeze bottle. If the paint is too thin, add more cornstarch. If the paint is too thick, add more water. Be sure to mix your paint well once you add the extra cornstarch or water. Dip a paintbrush into the muffin tin wells, and paint pictures on your sidewalk. If you are using a squeeze bottle, hold it horizontally over the sidewalk and give it a quick squeeze.


Fill a plastic soda or water bottle with water. Put the vitamin on your tongue. Seal your lips around the bottle opening. Take a sip.

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The best bottles for this method are the ones with small openings at the top, where you can create a seal with your mouth.  Disposable water bottles work great. 20 ounce soda bottles are also a good option. Place it about 2/3 of the way back. This method works best with large tablets, but it’s okay to do it with a capsule too. Try to close your mouth around the bottle in such a way that air couldn’t get through. Tilt the bottle backwards, and don’t let your mouth lose contact with the bottle. You’ll need to suck on the bottle like a large straw in order to get a sip large enough to swallow the vitamin. Be careful not to let air get into the bottle.


Fill a pot with water and a cinnamon stick. Bring the pot to a slow boil. Allow the tea to steep for 15 minutes. Strain the tea into a mug and serve.

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Pour 1 ½ cups of water into a medium saucepan. Add 1 cinnamon stick,  and cover the pot with a lid before placing it on the stovetop.  You can use a glass tea kettle instead of a saucepan if you prefer. If you want a stronger tea, break the cinnamon stick into several pieces. The cinnamon flavor comes out of the stick when it’s slow boiled, so set the stove’s burner to medium low. Allow it to come to a boil, which should take approximately 15 to 25 minutes. Don’t be alarmed if the water’s only a pale yellow color even when it comes to a full boil. It takes some time for the tea to darken. Once the water and cinnamon mixture has come to a complete boil, remove it from the burner. The tea must cool slightly for the rest of the cinnamon to be released from the stick, so let the tea steep for approximately 15 minutes off the heat. As the tea steeps, it will start to darken, turning a golden red color. After you’ve allowed the tea to steep for a while, pour it through a very fine strainer into a mug. The strainer will remove any bits of the cinnamon stick that might have broken off during brewing. Serve or drink the tea right away. During the steeping and straining process, the tea will cool. If it’s not as hot as you’d like it when it’s finished, pour the strained tea back into the pot and reheat it.


Fill a pot with well-draining soil. Place the onion cutting in the soil and fill the pot with soil. Water the onion cutting immediately after planting it. Spray nitrogen fertilizer into the soil after watering it.

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Purchase a well-draining soil mix and a large pot with holes in the bottom from a plant nursery. Fill the pot with the soil to about halfway full—you will fill it the rest of the way when you plant the onion cutting.  You can also plant your onion bottom outside if your garden has well-draining soil. You can test to see if soil is well-draining by digging a 12 in (30 cm) hole in the soil and filling it with water. If the water drains in 5-15 minutes, the soil is well-draining. When the onion cutting grows white roots from the bottom, position it in the center of the soil. Fill the rest of the pot with soil over the onion until 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) from the top of the pot.  Depending on your preference, you can keep the onion cutting indoors or outdoors in sunny weather. If you plant the whole cut bottom as one piece, you may get more than one new onion but they will likely be crowded together and small.  The number of plants a single onion can grow will vary from 1-6, the onion pictured above can be divided into two.  To get multiple full size new onions from a single onion bottom, use a sharp knife to divide the onion bottom, leaving a portion of the roots on each section, as well as the leaves if it has started sprouting. Watering the onion cutting helps it adapt to its new environment and grow roots faster. Give your onion enough water that the soil is damp to the touch, but not soaking wet. Onions thrive in soil with a high nitrogen content. Spray nitrogen fertilizer directly into the soil and mix it with your hands to give your onion the nutrients it needs to grow.  You can buy nitrogen fertilizer from most garden stores or nurseries. Check the label to determine how much fertilizer to spray into the soil.


Fill a pot with well-draining soil. Place the pot in an area with partial shade. Plant a jasmine seed or seedling in the pot. Water the jasmine immediately after planting it.

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Jasmine needs soil with plenty of drainage to grow. Fill the pot with a well-draining potting mix or add loam-based compost to the soil to improve its drainage.  Make sure the flower pot you choose has drainage holes to avoid overwatering the plant.  To test the soil's drainage, dig a hole about 12 inches (30 cm) deep and fill it with water. If the soil drains in 5-15 minutes, it is well-draining. Jasmine prefers warm temperatures (at least 60 °F (16 °C)) and several hours of shade to grow. Choose a spot for your jasmine pot that receives sunlight but with around 2-3 hours of shade a day. If placing the pot indoors, choose a plant near a south-facing window so it can receive direct sunlight. Cover the seed with a light layer of soil. If you're planting a seedling, make sure the crown of the plant is level with the soil. Cover the roots completely.  If you're planting a seedling, loosen the roots with your hands to help it adapt to its new environment faster.  You can buy jasmine seeds or seedlings from most garden centers or nurseries. Using a watering can or hose, water your plant until water runs out the drainage holes. When you're finished watering, the soil should be damp but not waterlogged.  Watering the flower immediately will moisten the soil and help your plant acclimate to the pot. For best results, use a spray bottle or watering can to moisten the freshly-planted jasmine.


Fill a saucepan with equal amounts of water and sugar and stir. Remove the mixture from heat and let it cool. Store the simple syrup in the fridge.

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Remember that the sugar will dissolve, so you will end up with a little bit less than you think. If you started with 1 cup (225 grams) of sugar and 1 cup (240 milliliters) of water, you will end up with 1½ cup (360 milliliters) of simple syrup. If you need more/less simple syrup than that, adjust the ratios accordingly. If you are making the simple syrup for a recipe, you can use it as soon as it cools down. If not, read on to learn how to store it. You can now use it to sweeten iced teas, coffees, lemonades, and cocktails. It will last about 4 weeks.


Fill a separate plastic container that’s larger than the bottle with water.

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Any kind of plastic container will work, like a bucket or a plastic bin. You can even use another plastic bottle. Just cut the neck of the bottle off with scissors so the bottle is open at the top. Leave 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) at the top of the container so the water doesn’t overflow.


Fill a shallow pan with enough water to cover your wool. Soak your wool in warm water, then squeeze the excess water out. Add a few drops of liquid food coloring into the water. Swirl the drops together until you get the look you want. Set the felt into the pan and press down on it. Take the felt out of the pan and blot off the excess water. Allow the felt to air dry.

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Choose a large baking pan, such as a jelly roll pan or rimmed baking sheet. Pour just enough water into it to  cover your wool. Unlike the other method, you can reuse your pan for cooking because the food coloring is edible.  For example, if your wool is 1⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) thick, make the water 1⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) deep. Be aware that this method is not colorfast. The color will come out if the wool gets wet. This method is best for craft projects that won't get wet, like figurines. Your wool can be the same size as the pan or smaller. How much you end up using depends on the size of your pan. You should be able to spread the wool out in the pan without crumpling it. For best results, use white wool. Off-white, ivory, or pale gray may also work. You can use just 1 color, or you can use 2 colors. If you choose 2 colors, make sure that they go together. They will mix to some extent. How many drops you add is up to you, but try to coat most of the surface.  The more dye you use, the deeper the color will be. For example, blue and yellow work well together, because they make green. Purple and yellow don't work well because they make brown. How much you swirl the drops together is up to you. You can swirl the drops together completely to create a solid color, or you can swirl them together lightly to create a marbled or tie-dye effect. You can swirl the drops together with a spoon, a toothpick, or even your finger! If you use your finger, it might be a good idea to wear a plastic glove. Make sure that you press down firmly enough so that the water soaks through the felt. Do not move the felt around, especially if you only slightly swirled the drops together. Set the felt down on a towel, then gently dab the excess water off with a clean towel. Be aware that the food coloring may stain the towels, so it's best not to use any that you care about.  If you don't have any towels that can get stained, use paper towels instead. You don't need to soak the felt for a specific period of time--as long as the felt is soaked...


Fill a sink or bowl with hot water and soap. Scrub out the graphite. Add some vinegar. Rinse off the case. Dry the case.

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Metal cases are hardier than plastic and fabrics, so you are free to use hot water on them and any dish soap or detergent. Collect the water then add a small amount of the cleaner to make it soapy. Many companies offer metal cleaners, too. You may wish to check a local shop for one of them. Because metal cases are stronger, you can use most kitchen brushes or sponges. Using the brush or sponge, push the soap and water up into the corners and scrub any marks.  Avoid harsh cleaners such as steel wool, Brillo pads, and abrasive substances. These leave scratches that make future cleaning more difficult. You may still wish to use a gentler cleaning material such as a soft cloth for the sake of reducing wear and being better able to get into the corners. Metal exposed to air oxidizes, which causes unpleasant colors at the bottom of your pencil case. Add two tablespoons of vinegar to a quart of water in a pot on the stove. Boil this mixture, then soak the pencil case in for 15 minutes. Repeat as needed. Put it back under warm or hot water in order to remove all the soap or vinegar. This removes any possible erosion from those chemicals and prepares the case for drying. Grab a cloth or a paper towel. Wipe away all the water. At this point, the pencil case should look ready to use again. If stains persist, you may wish to clean with vinegar if you haven’t tried or only did it once.


Fill a sink or tub with cool water. Pour 1⁄4 cup (59 ml) of hair conditioner in the tub for cotton and rayon. Add 1 to 2 tablespoons (15 to 30 ml) of vinegar to the water for wool. Soak the shirt for 15 minutes. Drain the tub to fill it with fresh water. Place the shirt between 2 towels to squeeze out excess water. Pull on the various edges of the shirt. Lay the shirt on a fresh towel to air dry.

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There should be enough water in your container to completely submerge the shirt you hope to stretch. Make sure the water is room temperature or cooler. You don't want hot water, as this could further shrink the fabric. Any hair conditioner will work! Once you've poured it in, give the water a good stir to mix it in.  You can also use baby shampoo in place of the conditioner. Both materials will relax the fibers in your shirt and make them easier to manipulate.  Hair conditioner should also work well for other synthetic materials, like nylon. Vinegar is a natural fabric softener, so it provides a little extra protection against damage for wool items. Before you mix in the conditioner, add the vinegar as well. This will allow you to mix both ingredients into the water at the same time. Lay the shirt flat on the water and push it down to completely submerge it. Try to keep it as flat as possible when you push it down so the materials in the water can evenly affect the fibers. You shouldn't need to remove the shirt while you drain the container. Once you've got fresh water, squeeze the shirt to rinse out the conditioner (or baby shampoo) and/or vinegar. Then soak the fabric for another 5 minutes. Continue draining, rinsing, and soaking until all traces of the softeners are gone. Lay the shirt flat on the bottom towel, then place another towel on top. Roll the bundle up so that the excess water is transferred from your shirt to the 2 towels. Unroll the bundle and move the shirt to a new, dry towel. Place your hands on opposite sides of the shirt and pull the same amount on both sides. Stretch the hemline down about 2 inches (5.1 cm), and then do the same to the collar and shoulders of the shirt. Since your third towel is probably wet now also, move the shirt to a fourth one. Allow it to air dry completely before testing to see how well your stretching worked. You may need to wait overnight for the shirt to dry out completely.


Fill a sink with clean, cold water to wash a synthetic or knit hat. Fill a sink with lukewarm water to wash a cashmere or wool hat. Mix a few drops of mild detergent into the water. Drop the hat into the water and swirl it around for 2-5 minutes. Rinse your beanie with clean, cool water. Ball up the hat and press it against a hard surface to remove water. Roll the hat in a dry towel to press out more water. Dry the hat completely by laying it flat in a well-ventilated space.

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You can also use a plastic bucket or tub instead of a sink. Make sure the water is deep enough that you can fully submerge your beanie.  Check your beanie’s care label before to determine what material it’s made from. If the label has been cut off and you can’t determine the material, hand-wash it using cold water to be safe. Warm water can shrink certain materials.  Synthetic materials include polyester, acrylic, and nylon. Make sure that the water is just warm to the touch—wool fabric shrinks at high temperatures. If you have a thermometer on hand, experts recommend a temperature of 85 °F (29 °C). Instead of a sink, you can also use a plastic bucket, bowl, or tub. Make sure there’s enough water in your container to cover your beanie. Don’t add too much soap—a good rule of thumb is to add about 1 teaspoon (4.9 mL) of detergent per 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water. Using your hand, mix the water and soap together to make sure it’s evenly dispersed.  Woolite is a great option for wool or knit beanies. Try baby shampoo if you’re washing a cashmere beanie. You can also gently squeeze the hat several times in a row so it absorbs and then releases water. Avoid stretching the beanie or rubbing it against itself, which can result in a misshapen hat or pilling.  Typically, 98% of dirt comes out after 5 minutes of hand-washing. If your beanie is stained, carefully massage soapy water into the affected area to lift the stain. You can also leave it soaking for a longer period of time to help loosen the stains. You can drain the soapy water out of the sink and refill with clean water, or dump out your tub and add new water. Press the soapy hat against the bottom or side of the tub to absorb water, then squeeze it gently to release the water. Repeat this until the soap residue is gone.  If you have 2 basins, you can fill them both at the start of the process and simply transfer the beanie from one to the other. If you are washing a beanie made of a particularly delicate material, such as cashmere, do not rinse it under running...


Fill a sink with cold water and mix in a mild laundry detergent. Place the bear into the soapy water and agitate. Scrub the bear gently with the soapy water using your hands. Remove the bear from the dirty water and rinse. Lay the bear on a clean towel, dabbing it with another towel to get rid of excess moisture. Let the bear air dry.

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Be sure to add the detergent while the water is still running.  The cold water will help preserve your bear’s color. You can also use warm, but never hot, water. Do not use any harsh detergents, as they can damage the bear’s fur. Baby detergents work well. Simply swish the bear around in the soap and water mixture until it is completely covered. Take care around the stitches so they don’t come loose. Hand-washing is the gentlest method for cleaning the bear. Washing too roughly may cause the stuffing to come out of the stitching. Use cold running water to rinse the suds off of your bear. Follow by brushing your bear with a soft brush. Brushing the bear’s fur right after washing will help prevent any clumping or matting. You may need to turn it over periodically to allow both sides to dry.  It is usually best to let a stuffed animal dry on its own outside, as long as it’s a warm and sunny day.  Not allowing your bear to dry properly can result in mold or rotting. Make sure the bear is completely dry before boxing it up or letting a child play with it.


Fill a sink with cool water and bleach-free detergent. Soak the sweater inside-out for 5-10 minutes. Blot the sweater with a towel to remove excess water. Manipulate the fabric with your hands to shrink areas of the sweater. Let your sweater air dry on a flat surface.

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This can work for a stretched out wool sweater. Add 1 tablespoon (15 mL) of mild, bleach-free detergent to the water. You can also use detergents made for washing wool. Mix the detergent in the water with your hand. Check on it every 3 minutes and agitate it in the water. You can also dampen the fabric by spritzing it with water. Don’t twist or bunch the sweater when you swirl, as this will damage its material. To blot it, press the towel against the sweater to squeeze the extra water out. You can also push your sweater against the wall of the sink to squeeze excess water out. Alternatively, roll the sweater up in the towel like a burrito to remove more water. Just be sure to avoid wringing it out, as this can ruin the fabric. Grip the sweater with your hands to gently squish together parts of the fabric that you want to shrink. Place your hands firmly on the sweater, and use your fingers to push the material inward. Do this with the whole garment if needed, or just in some areas such as the bust or waist.  Put a towel down to soak up excess water from the sweater. Place the sweater on a flat surface while you reshape it. Ideally, you should leave it on the surface where you reshaped it, so you don’t disturb the work you did. You can put it on your bed, a table, a counter, or any flat surface where it won’t be disturbed. So, keep it away from pets, if you have any. Keep your sweater out of direct heat and sunlight to prevent too much shrinkage.


Fill a sink with lukewarm water. Stretch the clothing out by hand to reshape it. Pin the clothing in place with books and other heavy objects. Wash and dry the clothing again if it is needed.

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If your sink isn’t available, use a bucket or even a bathtub instead. Add at least 1⁄4 US gal (950 mL) of lukewarm water, enough to submerge the garment. Make sure the water is at room temperature or a little warmer than that so it effectively relaxes the fibers in the fabric.  Cold water won’t help you stretch out clothing. On the other hand, hot water shrinks and damages clothing, so avoid using it here. Note that knitted clothes, including cotton, wool, and cashmere garments, respond to this tactic better than other types of fabric. Fabrics with tight weaves, such as silk, rayon, or polyester, will be more difficult to reshape. Unroll the towel, then move the garment to a second dry towel spread out over a flat surface. Use your hands to tug on the edges of the damp clothing. Be gentle to avoid damaging the fabric’s fibers. It may not be exactly the same as it was before it shrunk, but try to get the clothing as close as possible to its original shape.  For a more accurate way to gauge the size and shape your garment needs to be, create a cutout. Find a similarly-sized garment and use it to trace an outline on parchment paper. Then, place the garment over the outline while you’re stretching it. If you’re having a hard time stretching the clothing, use the steam setting on an iron. The steam softens stiff fabric. Keep the garment on the towel. Work on parts of the garment one at a time so you’re able to pin them in place as you reshape them. If you don’t have heavy books, try using paperweights, coffee mugs, or anything else you have available. Eventually, your garment will be covered in these weights so the fabric can’t move at all.  If you do not have any heavy objects nearby, hold the garment in place with clothespins. You can leave the clothing this way until it dries. If your garment is in bad shape, consider checking back every 30 minutes and stretching it out again. If you need the clothing to dry faster, hang it up to air dry. Drape it over a curtain rod, put it on a clothes hanger, or put it in...


Fill a sink with warm water and add some mild detergent. Mix the detergent into the water. Let the bras sit in the soapy water for 10 to 15 minutes.

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Unless you are washing a great number of hand-wash items, you will only need between 1 teaspoon and 1 tablespoon of detergent. If you do not have a sink, you can use a bucket instead. Be sure that you are using an alcohol-free detergent intended for hand washing garments. If you do not have any mild detergents at home, you can easily make one of your own:  Combine 1 cup (240 milliliters) of hot water, 1 teaspoon of baby shampoo, and 1 to 2 drops essential oil (such as lavender or chamomile). Fill a sink or bucket with lukewarm water, then add your homemade detergent. Dilute some liquid castile soap with water, and add it to a sink or bucket filled with warm water. Do this by swishing your hand around in the water. Keep doing this until you get some bubbles and foam. Do not get concerned if there is not a lot of foam; too many suds will not only not clean better, but wastes detergent, and makes rinsing a longer process. This allows the detergent to dissolve any oils or dirt. For particularly dirty bras, leave them in the water for one hour.


Fill a small bowl with hydrogen peroxide. Dip the corner of a cloth or sponge in the bowl. Dab the stain from the outside in. Rinse with cold water and repeat until the stain is gone.

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Hydrogen peroxide is a common household antiseptic, but it’s also very effective as a stain remover. If you have white or very light-colored underwear that have a bloodstain, pour about 1⁄2 cup (120 mL) of hydrogen peroxide into a small bowl. That way, you’ll be able to use as much as you need, but you won’t have to worry about getting blood on or in the peroxide container.  Hydrogen peroxide will bleach your fabric, so do not use it on dark or brightly-colored underwear.  This is most effective on fresh stains, but may be effective on set-in stains as well. Take a washcloth, sponge, or even a stack of paper towels, and dip the corner in the hydrogen peroxide bowl. By doing this, the peroxide will be concentrated in one area on the cloth, so you will be able to apply it to the stain more precisely. Make sure the cloth or sponge you use is something that’s okay to get stained, since it may absorb some of the blood. Press the saturated end of the cloth directly onto the blood stain. Blot the stain with the cloth, working from the outside edges in toward the center. Add more hydrogen peroxide to the cloth as you need it—you want to soak the stain completely. You can even add more to the bowl if you need to. Move to a clean section of the cloth whenever the blood transfers to the section you’re using. After you’ve blotted away most of the stain, rinse your underwear out thoroughly under cold running water, then examine the fabric. If there are any areas that are still stained, continue blotting them until all of the blood is gone.   If the stain was older and set-in, there may be some light staining that doesn’t come up. In that case, try an enzymatic cleaner to try to remove the last of the blood. Once the stain is gone, air-dry your underwear or place them in the dryer.


Fill a small bowl with water and mild soap. Dip a sponge into the soap solution. Blot the stain. Rinse the leather. Dry the area with a cloth.

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Mix together room temperature water with a few drops of mild soap or dish detergent. Stir the solution until suds are formed. Use a clean washcloth or sponge and dip it into the soap solution. Squeeze the sponge so that it is damp, but not dripping wet. Gently blot the stain with the soapy sponge or cloth. Do not rub the stain because this can actually push the stain further into the leather or spread the stain to a larger surface area. Then, wet a new cloth with water and dab the stain to remove any excess soap that may be left on the leather. Use a dry washcloth or towel to blot the cleaned area until the surface is dry.


Fill a small plastic tub with cold water. Mix in a mild cleanser. Spot test your hat. Soak the entire hat. Rinse the hat. Remove excess water. Allow the hat to air dry.

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Warm or hot water can cause colors to run and may even cause the hat to shrink depending on the material. You only need enough space to keep the hats submerged. If you only want to wash one or two hats, you can even use a large plastic bowl instead of a tub.  This method works best for hand-knitted hats or delicate baseball caps that you're afraid will come undone or stretch out in a washing machine.  If you knitted the hat yourself, check the yarn label for washing instructions. Stir about a teaspoon of detergent or soap into the water until it is completely dissolved. The type of cleanser you use will be determined by the material your hat is made of and what kind of grime you're trying to remove.  If your knit hat is woolen, you should select a soap that is specially formulated for wool fabric. This will reduce the chance of pilling, discoloration, and other types of damage. If this type of cleaner is unavailable, a mild detergent without bleach or other additives may work. Never use chlorine bleach or enzyme treatments on woolens. If you're using this method on a hat for the first time, you should soak a small patch before immersing the whole garment. Hold the patch underwater for about two minutes.  Check for bleeding colors while the hat is still wet. You may notice dye coming off in the water. If you don't, try dabbing the hat on a light surface or object. When dabbing the patch, make sure to do so with something that is either easy to bleach or that you don't mind discoloring. Pick a part of the hat that is not easily visible to others when you wear it. That way, if the discoloration is noticeable, it won't affect the hat's overall look. If you don't notice any bleeding colors or general discoloration, you can move onto the next step. If your test patch does not show any signs of damage after two minutes, go ahead and submerge the entire hat. For a light, ordinary cleaning, you only need to soak the hat for roughly 30 minutes. If there is mud caked onto the hat or if the dirt is more stubborn, you may...


Fill a small pot with potting soil. Leave the ficus somewhere bright.

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Find a small, 4-inch (10-cm) pot and fill it halfway with a high-quality, well-draining, and soil-based potting mix. Avoid peat-based potting mixes, as these won't provide the plant with enough stability. High-peat mixes also become compacted over time, and this can cause problems for the root system. Place the transplanted ficus in a bright and warm location, but keep it out of direct sunlight, especially until it's more established. There should be some new growth at the top of the plant before it's exposed to direct sunlight.


Fill a small tub with warm water. Submerge your feet in the water. Wash your feet. Dry your feet. Discard the water. Trim your toenails.

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Adjust the temperature to your zone of comfort, making sure to check the temperature with your hand or wrist and not your feet, as your feet can have less sensation. Be sure to keep the temperature warm, but not hot. Add mild dish soap or body wash into the water. Swirl the water until you see a layer of bubbles appear on the top.  Use a tub that is large enough to accommodate your feet with a little extra room. You can also use a bar of soap as an alternative to liquid soap. If you have diabetes or another similar health condition, make sure you check the temperature of the water using your wrist and not any part of your lower extremities. In order to properly clean your feet you must soak them in the soapy water. Sit down in a chair and gently place your feet into the tub until they reach the bottom and/or are completely underneath the water.  If you have built-up dirt on your feet, let them soak for at least 5 minutes. Wipe up any water that splashes out of the tub to prevent injury from slips. Washing your feet daily prevents foot odor and infection. Using a towel, loofah, or sponge to scrub the dirt away will leave your feet sparkly clean. If you have built-up dirt, you will need to scrub a little harder and use more soap.  Soak your towel, loofah, or sponge in the water and wring it out so it’s moist, but not soaked. Gently scrub each foot, focusing your attention on the arch of your foot, in between toes, and under toenails. Rinse the towel between cleaning each foot. If using a bar a soap, lather it up and apply soap all around both feet. If you notice the water is very dirty, discard it and get fresh water to rinse off the soap. Excess moisture on your feet and between your toes can promote growth of bacteria and fungi.  To prevent infection, it is important to keep your feet as dry as possible. Drying after washing will also prevent the build-up of new dirt on your feet.  Pat your feet dry with a clean towel instead of rubbing, especially if you have a medical condition such as diabetes.  Be sure to...


Fill a spray bottle halfway with conditioner. Add water. Add sea salt for a beach spray (optional). Detangle.

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This can be rinse-out or leave-in conditioner, as long as it suits your hair type. A sturdy, reusable spray bottle is more cost-effective in the long run. Fill ¼ of the bottle with water. Put the top back on the bottle and shake it gently. . If you have damaged or very dry hair, you may want to skip this step and use plain conditioner. This is not necessary for detangling, but can easily be added to the spray. Shake in a little sea salt and you'll have a texturizing spray that gives beachy, wavy hair. Skip this step if your hair is severely tangled. Spray your hair and detangle with a brush or comb. Work from the ends upward. When finished, you can leave it in or rinse out the excess spray. Rinsing is recommended if your hair tends to get greasy easily.


Fill a spray bottle with lukewarm water. Lay the jeans out on the floor. Pull on the jeans as you spray them. Let the jeans air dry.

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Make sure the spray bottle is clean and free of leftover chemicals from previous uses. Fill it up with only lukewarm water. If you don’t have a spray bottle around, you can pour small amounts of water onto your jeans as you work on stretching them out. Make sure the jeans are completely flat on the floor. Smooth the fabric out with your hands. Separate the legs of the jeans so you can easily work on one section at a time. Spray the water on every part that needs to be stretched out. Once it is fairly damp, use your hands to pull and stretch that portion of the jeans. Repeat this until you have stretched out every part of the jeans that need to be stretched out. You can leave the jeans laying out flat if you don’t want to move them. Or, you can hang them up to dry. Try on your jeans once they have dried to make sure they have been stretched out enough. If not, repeat the process or try another method.


Fill a spray bottle with warm water, then spray water onto a clean, soft polishing cloth. Dampen the cloth, then wring out as much water as possible.

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Homemade cleaner for pearl jewelry is easiest to make, since it only has 1 ingredient. This is because pearls are extremely delicate and the strands holding them together are difficult to dry. Never clean a pearl jewelry item with anything more than a damp cloth.


Fill a spray bottle with water. Add the coconut oil and almond oil. Mix in some hair conditioner. Shake the bottle to blend all of the ingredients. Apply the spray to your hair before using heat.

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Pour 1 cup (237 ml) of distilled water into a spray bottle. Make sure the bottle is large enough that there is approximately 2-inches (5-cm) of space at the top of the bottle. You can use a plastic or glass spray bottle for the hair protectant spray. With the water in the bottle, mix in 1 tablespoon (13 g) of melted coconut oil and 4 drops of almond oil. It usually helps to use a medicine dropper to add the oils to the bottle. You can substitute argan or grapeseed oil for the almond oil if you prefer. When the water and oils are mixed in the bottle, squeeze a quarter-sized amount of your favorite conditioner into the palm of your hand. Carefully transfer it into the bottle with the other ingredients. You can use whatever conditioner that you like, but be sure that it contains silicones. They are the ingredients that help coat your hair to protect it. Once all of the ingredients are in the spray bottle, mix them together by shaking the bottle well. The spray may separate when you’re storing it, so remember to shake it before each use. Don’t be concerned if the mixture has some lather or suds after you shake it together. That’s entirely normal. The spray will settle into a milky liquid once it has time to sit. When you’re ready to use the spray, hold the bottle approximately 6-inches (15-cm) from your head and mist it over your hair evenly. Work the spray through your hair with your fingers, and heat style as usual.


Fill a spray bottle with water. Spray the entire surface of the leather. Wipe off the excess water. Follow up with a quality leather conditioner.

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An infusion of moisture is a great way to put new leather through its paces. Run a cool stream straight from the tap, or, better yet, pour in a bottle of purified drinking water. Make sure you screw the top on tight to avoid any unfortunate mishaps.  If possible, use distilled water. There will be less chance of the unsightly spotting and mineral buildup that often comes with hard water. Assuming you can’t get your hands on a spray bottle, you can also wipe down the leather with a damp cloth. This method won't be very useful on waterproofed leather, which will just cause the water to roll right off. Mist the item from top to bottom until the water just begins to bead up. As it sits, the moisture will seep into the leather, breaking down the stiff grain ever-so-slightly. During this time, you can slip into the item (if it’s something wearable) and move around a bit to stretch it out and help it conform to your body  Alternatively, consider stepping outside for a few moments during a light drizzle. Just be careful not to stay out so long that the leather becomes sopping wet.  Too much water is not good for leather, but a little bit can have a gentle weathering effect without causing any serious damage. Take a clean microfiber towel and give the leather a thorough pat down. Once this is done, leave the item in a cool, dry place and let it finish air drying naturally. The remaining moisture will escape via evaporation.  It’s important not to leave behind any standing water. Oversaturation can eventually produce cracking and fading and cause leather to take on a dull, coarse appearance. Don’t forget to dry off all metal components to keep them from rusting. A protective coat will restore vital moisture to the leather and keep it from becoming dry and brittle. This step will be especially important after subjecting tanned fabrics to other substances like water that can create wear.


Fill a squirt bottle with half water and half vinegar.

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The best vinegar to use is plain white distilled vinegar, which is inexpensive and effective.  A higher concentration of vinegar may be even more effective, so adjust the vinegar to water ratio based on the severity of the water spots.


Fill a steamer pot halfway with water and bring it to a boil. Place 1 cup (135 g) of edamame in your steamer rack. Put the steamer rack in the pot and cover it for 5 minutes. Plunge the bean pods into ice water to stop the cooking process.

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Pour 4 cups (950 ml) of water into the bottom section of the steamer pot. Turn the heat on your stove onto high and let the water come to a boil. Once the water is boiling, reduce the heat down to medium. Steamer pots are available at your local kitchen goods store. You can use edamame that’s either fresh or frozen. The steamer rack is a small bowl that sits inside the steamer pot. Rinse the edamame under cold water to quickly clean them. Shake the excess water out of the rack. Rest the lip of the steamer rack on the edge of the pot. Immediately cover the pot to keep the steam inside. Let the edamame cook for at least 5 minutes or until the bean pods are tender. If the bean pods are not fully cooked after 5 minutes, keep them in the steamer pot for an additional 2 minutes before checking them again. Hold the steamer rack with oven mitts and dip the entire rack into a bowl filled with ice water. Take the rack out of the bowl immediately so the beans don’t get too cold. Sprinkle salt on the bean pods to flavor them. Edamame can be served hot or cold.


Fill a stockpot with water and aromatics. Bring the stock to a boil. Add the octopus. Cover and cook until tender. Remove the octopus and serve.

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Add enough water to a large stockpot to fill it at least 2/3 high. Add your herbs and vegetables to the stockpot, as well.  If you have ready made vegetable stock, you could use that instead of using the water and aromatic ingredients. The vegetables and herbs in this recipe primarily exist for the sake of flavoring the octopus. This recipe calls for onion, carrot, leek, bay leaves, parsley, thyme, and peppercorn, but you could change the vegetables and herbs to nearly any other set of aromatics you have available. Heat the stockpot over high heat until a rolling boil develops. Let boil for 5 minutes or so. By letting the herbs and vegetables boil in the water before you add the octopus, you help draw the flavor of these aromatics into the water, creating the beginnings of a vegetable stock. Add all the tentacles and body pieces to the boiling water. The water will slow after you add the octopus, so let it come to a rapid boil again before pressing forward. This recipe works best when the octopus has already been cut into separate tentacles and head pieces. Do not, however, cut the octopus further into smaller chunks. The octopus can still cook if cut smaller, but it is not recommended for aesthetic reasons. This could take anywhere from 20 to 45 minutes.  Test the meat with a fork after 5 minutes. It will not be ready yet, but doing so will give you an idea of how it feels when it is still too tough. Pierce the meat again after 15 minutes and note the difference in tenderness. When ready, the meat of the octopus should practically be falling off the fork as you lift it out of the broth. Boiled octopus is generally cut into slices and served with rice or in salad, but you can also enjoy it on its own. You can strain and reserve the water, if desired, for use as seafood stock.


Fill a tub with lukewarm water and 1 teaspoon (4.9 mL) of mild dish soap. Take the cymbals off their stands and soak them for one to two minutes. Scrub the cymbal with a heavy nylon brush if it’s really dirty. Take the cymbals out and wipe them dry.

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You can use a plastic tub or a bathtub, depending on how big your cymbals are. Mix the mild dish soap into the water until the 2 are combined. Unscrew the cymbals and set the small pieces aside. Slide your cymbal gently into the tub until it’s fully submerged, then let it soak. The soapy water will help loosen the built-up grime and oils. Repeat this process, one cymbal at a time, to avoid scratching. For cymbals with extra buildup, you may need a little more elbow grease! While the cymbal is still soaking in the soapy water, use a heavy nylon scrub brush to scrub at the grooves. Remove the bulk of the grime with the brush, then rinse it off.  Always scrub in the direction of the grooves. Don’t use a metallic or wire brush, which can damage the surface of the cymbal. Lay out a soft towel on the floor, then place the cymbal on it. Use a soft, clean cloth to wipe away the water until the cymbals are completely dry.


Fill a tub with water and sheepskin detergent. Immerse your rug in the water and swish it around gently. Drain the dirty water from the tub and refill it with clean water. Move the rug around in the clean water for a final rinse.

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Fill your bathtub or a large plastic tub with cool water. Pour in sheepskin detergent, reading the directions for the exact amount that’s recommended. Avoid using a regular detergent, as this could damage your rug. If you’re still not sure how much detergent to use, measure out about a capful using the lid on the detergent bottle. Get as much dirt out as possible, moving the rug around in the water gently to dislodge it. You can also gently scrub any spots you see using a soft clean rag. Continue swishing the rug around in the water for roughly five minutes. Be gentle during this process so you don’t cause unnecessary matting. Unplug the drain and let the dirty water drain out, holding the sheepskin rug out of the drain’s way. Once all the dirty water is gone, plug the drain and refill the tub again with cool, clean water. Add more sheepskin detergent to the water if you think the rug is still dirty, though it’s best to add a smaller amount than you did the first time to make rinsing out the soap easier. Swish the rug around in the water again, removing any final remnants of dirt and detergent. Use your hands to gently rub the rug, helping to remove soap and dirt. If you notice that the water is getting dirty again, drain and refill the bath. Do this as many times as is necessary until the water stays pretty clean.


Fill her belly. Have a regular and quiet bedtime routine. Allow her to put herself to sleep. Use a pacifier.

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The sleep and wake patterns of babies and newborns are governed by hunger, feeding, and digestion. Therefore, the fuller your baby is when she goes to sleep at night, the longer her food will take to digest, and the longer she’ll sleep. In the couple hours leading up to bedtime, start cluster feeding your baby by feeding her every hour, and then once again right before bed. Around 12 weeks, babies can begin to develop a regular circadian rhythm that’s dictated by the cycle of night and day. This means early on in life, your baby can start getting used to a bedtime routine that will signal sleep is coming soon.  You can start with a bedtime routine around three months, and aim for between 7 p.m. and 8:30 p.m.  Soothing bedtime activities include a bath, cuddles, reading, and quiet music or singing. To help teach your baby how to soothe herself to sleep at bedtime and during the night, put her down in her crib or bed when she's drowsy but still awake. Lay her down on her back, and make sure the area is free of pillows, blankets, toys, and other objects. You can start allowing your baby to put herself to sleep around six to eight weeks of age. A pacifier could help your baby settle quicker and fall asleep faster, and there's also evidence suggesting that pacifiers can reduce the risk of SIDS (sudden infant death syndrome). You may have to stop using the pacifier, however, if the baby wakes and can't get back to sleep when she drops it.


Fill hydration equipment. Get yourself dressed. Double check that your gear bag, gun case, and load bearing gear are in your trunk. Print out directions to the field. Develop your tactics. Plan along with your teammates. Make sure to wear some sort of camouflage!

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Make sure that you have your goggles and/or face protection.  If you know the geographic layout of your battlefield, find ways you can use it. Meet at a friend's house before the battle to run through your plans and make modifications. Hunting camo works very well if your are fighting in a forest or in the woods, however airsoft is a Military Simulation sport, so wear some sort of military camouflage. If possible get a mask or vest. They really help to lessen the pain of an airsoft pellet.


Fill in any nail holes or imperfections in the wood with wood filler. Sand the patched areas with 220-grit sandpaper until smooth. Wipe down the trim with a tack cloth to remove the sawdust completely.

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You will want to use a tinted filler the same color of the stain you will use. Scrape excess filler off the wood with a putty knife. Allow to dry thoroughly according to the package instructions. If necessary, sand the rest of the wood, as well, using 100 to 120 grit for rough areas and a fine 220 grit to make the wood smooth. Alternatively, you can use a clean cloth and denatured alcohol.


Fill in each horizontal row with the numbers 1-4, without repeating any of them. Fill each vertical column with every number, without repeating. Find and note the "cages," thick, irregular boxes within the Kenken, to get clues to a solution. Know that the number and syllable at the top of each cage must be the "goal," or answer, of the written numbers put inside. Know that subtraction and division boxes can be in any order. Know that the same rules apply no matter how big the puzzle gets.

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This is where Kenken gets its similarity to Sudoku. If you have a four square by four square grid, every single horizontal row must have a 1, 2, 3, and a 4 in it. The numbers, of course, can be in any order. This is true for each row. If your grid is a six by six, you would have the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6, without any repeating. If it is a 9x9, then 1-9, etc. A completed Kenken needs to have every single number in every single row and column, only once. Note, however, that this doesn't just mean you fill in every single box with your numbers and win -- each puzzle still requires a specific order -- as dictated by "cages." Inside of the Kenken, there are big, thick lines marking of several boxes at once, with a mathematical equation (ex. "3+," "1-," "2"). These are called cages, and they provide the puzzle and the solution. Make a note of them, making sure you understand what boxes they cover.  Cages can be straight, composed of either a single block or many at once, or L-shaped. Just follow the big, thick lines. Before beginning, make sure you can tell the edges of the each cage to prevent mistakes. Every box will be in a cage of some sort. If you have four numbers in a cage labeled "8+," then the four numbers in that cage must add up to eight, like 1 | 2 | 2 | 3 (note that this would be an L-shaped cage, otherwise you'd have two 2s in the same line!). So a cage with two boxes labeled "3-" would have to have two numbers that, when subtracted, equal 3, like 4 and 1. Every cage will have a goal -- and this is how you solve Ken Ken.  Kenken only contains addition (+), subtraction (-), multiplication (×), and division (÷).  Cages with only one box and no mathematical symbol ("4") mean you just place the number in the box on its own. If the box just says "4," just put a 4 in the box. If you have a box that asks for "2÷," you can answer it with either "4 | 2" or  "2 | 4." You just need the two correct numbers in the equation -- the order doesn't matter. These rules all still apply no matter if you're playing...


Fill in the screw holes. Clean the stairs Leave overnight.

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Once all of the laminate flooring is in place, you will need to fill in the exposed screw holes in the stair nosing with putty. Prepare the putty according to the instructions, making sure to mix it well. Use a plastic putty knife to smoothly and carefully fill in the screw holes. Once you've filled in every hole on the nosing strip, remove the plastic tape covering the nosing.  Continue to work your way down the stairs filling in the holes and removing the tape on each piece of nosing. After 20-30 minutes, use a damp cloth to even out the putty covering each screw, before it is fully dry. You may use water or acetone for this. . It is very important to clean the stairs immediately to remove any fallen bits of putty, as putty can be almost impossible to remove once it sets. You should also sweep away any sawdust and peel off any remaining tape from the stair nosing. Once the stairs are clean, you can take a step back and admire your handiwork! You should avoid using the stairs (as far as possible) for 12-24 hours after you finish the flooring. This will give the glue adequate time to set and allow the new flooring to settle.


Fill out a CG-10 application form. Receive your statement of eligibility. Pass any and all required Florida Teacher Certification Tests (FTCT). Teach at a public or nonpublic school in Florida.

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The form can be obtained online, by mail, or picked up in person from a Florida school district office. Pay the application fee by credit card, personal or cashier's check or money order.  Email or call Florida's Department of Education to request a paper copy of the CG-10 application form if you have neither a U.S. Social Security number nor a U.S. state/territory mailing address.  Once you fill out the application, you must also pay the processing fee for each subject you choose to teach. Send a personal check, cashier's check or money order for payment. Initial certificates as well as additional subjects are each $75. Wait for the Department to determine your eligibility and issue your Official Statement of Status of Eligibility. The statement should show you are eligible for a Professional Certificate in your chosen subject.  This statement will let you know if any other information is needed by the Department to receive your credentials. Any additional requirements outlined in the Statement must be completed before your temporary certification expires. The tests you need to take will be on your Official Statement of Status of Eligibility.  You need a valid U.S. Social Security number for the Bureau of Educator Certification to accept your test scores. Without this, the Bureau of Education will not be able to attach your scores to the rest of your application. The Social Security number should be the same on your educator certification file. If you do not have a valid U.S. Social Security Number, contact the Bureau of Educator Certification to find out what identifying documents may be acceptable to accept your scores. A public school can mean a charter school sponsored by its own school district. A nonpublic school can include Virtual Schools that are Internet-based, statewide public schools.  Discuss any immigration or visa matters you have with prospective employers. Your employer must send the appropriate documentation for your immigration status to the Bureau of Educator Certification. The school you...


Fill out a Summons. Have the dissolution forms reviewed. Make additional copies. File the papers. Serve your spouse. File proof of service.

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The first step in getting a divorce is telling the court that you would like to dissolve your marriage. The specifics of this will depend on your state and county, so contact your local court to obtain the correct papers.  There may be additional forms such as a marriage petition, property declaration, or other declarations pertaining to your relationship. Make sure you have found all the forms necessary for filing in your state. Fill out the papers on a computer or using blue or black ink as clearly as possible. If you find the forms difficult to navigate you may want to consider hiring someone to assist you. If you and your spouse are separating amicably, agree which one of you will start the process as court proceedings usually have a plaintiff and defendant (or petitioner and respondent). It does not matter much, but the plaintiff may have slightly more to do. Some states do also allow Joint Petitioning, in the simplest cases. If you have no children and little shared property, check if there is a marriage dissolution packet available at your local court. There are many states that offer free legal advice at family courts so take advantage if it is available to you. You can also consider hiring legal counsel to make sure the process goes smoothly. Some attorneys can be hired just to help with certain tasks, and in some cases paralegals can be hired to complete forms, so it does not have to be as expensive as you might think. Keep a copy of the summons for yourself. You will also need a copy for your spouse. The original is to be filed with the court. You will turn in the original as well as the copies to the county clerk. Your papers will be reviewed and, presuming everything is in order, stamped as "filed."  The court will retain the original summons and any other papers as the official beginning of divorce proceedings. They will return the copies for both parties to you with the "filed" stamp. This stamp means your divorce is officially underway. Whether you and your significant other have been in...


Fill out a social security card application. Visit your local social security office. Consider getting in touch with law enforcement.

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Using your new name, fill out an application for a new social security card, found here: http://www.socialsecurity.gov/online/ss-5.pdf  You'll need to provide evidence of age with your form. This can include a copy of your birth certificate, adoption papers, or other religious documentation. You'll need to provide evidence of your identity. Use your new driver's license, passport, or non-driver identity card. If you haven't gotten these documents changed yet, you can provide evidence of your recent name change as proof of your identity, including the court-order from your hearing. Bring the completed form and the necessary proof of your identity and age and prepare to make your case to an officer. The social security office will offer you a new number if you satisfy one or more of the following criteria:  You've been the victim of domestic abuse, harassment, or your life has been endangered in some other way. Sequential digits in the SSN of different members of the same family is causing confusion. More than one person has been assigned the same number. You have a religious or cultural objection to the sequence or digits. You've been the victim of identity theft and the use of the number continues to endanger you. If you're the victim of abuse and want to change your name to evade your abuser, tell your local law enforcement agency that your life will be in danger unless you are given a new identity. Law enforcement agencies can provide you with the documented evidence you need to take to the Social Security Administration to change your SSN.


Fill out an eviction notice, naming all the tenants and other occupants. Serve the Notice. Wait for the tenant to respond. Do not attempt to forcibly evict the tenant on your own.

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Use the proper forms for your state and jurisdiction when handling a tenant eviction; never use generalized forms or forms that you created, since they might not have the exact information you need to legally evict a tenant in your state. In most cases, your state will provide a template for one of the following types of eviction notices:   Pay Rent or Quit Notice: This is used when rent has not been paid. The tenant is given a set number of days by which to pay rent or move out. Failure to do either results in eviction.      Cure or Quit Notice: This is used if the tenant violates the terms of the lease in a different way, like by inviting a person not on the lease to move in or having a pet without permission. The tenant must correct ("cure") the situation or be formally evicted.      Unconditional Quit Notice: This is used when the tenant faces eviction for extreme violations like destroying property, other violent crimes, or not paying rent for months, even if he or she pays the rent or attempts to correct the situation. Use this type of notice when you want the tenant out no matter what.      30 to 60-day Notice to Vacate: This type of notice is used when you need to end a month-to-month lease, even if the the tenant did nothing wrong.    Tape it to the front door and send it in the mail. This is the most common procedure to follow, but it could be different in your state, so make sure to double check. In order to make sure there's no question whether the tenant received the notice, tape a copy to the front door of the house or apartment and send another copy through the certified mail.  Although you may be tempted to rely upon an informal text, email or even oral notice to the tenant, you must supplement that with "proper written notice", as required by your state laws, if you plan to follow through with an actual eviction by court order. It's very important to follow the correct procedure for notifying the tenant of the impending eviction. If you have to go to court later, you don't want the tenant to...


Fill out and submit the application. Wait for your registration certificate. Check the accuracy of the registration certificate.

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Although the application format itself will vary from one dog registry to another, the required information is generally the same. For example, you will need to provide your contact information and specific information about your dog (breed, name, sex, date of birth).  Other registration requirements may include information about your dog’s breeder,  photos of your dog,  and a three-generation pedigree certificate.  Requesting the three-generation pedigree certificate will probably require additional payment.  To register your dog through the AKC, you will need to obtain the registration application from the breeder from whom you purchased your dog.  If you are registering your service dog, you will likely need to provide valid proof of your disability.  If payment is required, be aware that your payment may be nonrefundable.  Some dog registries will have applications that you can fill out and submit online. For others, you may have to download the application from their website and fill it out by hand. The length of time between submitting your application and receiving your dog’s official registration certificate will vary between dog registries. For example, the registration process usually takes about three weeks for the AKC. Consider contacting the registry if its website does not provide information on when you can expect to receive the registration certification following submission of the application. It is important to carefully read through the information on your dog’s registration certificate. Contact the registry if you notice any errors or inaccuracies on the certificate.


Fill out any required paperwork. Pay any required fees. Sign your lease. Do a walk-through with the landlord and note any problems. Set up your utilities Get your keys. Clean the apartment, if necessary. File a change of address form with the post office.

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Before you can move in to a new apartment, you will have to fill out a few forms. You will likely need to submit to a credit check or background check before you can be approved for a lease, and your new landlord might also ask you to supply a list of references. Be prepared to provide supporting documents, such as:  Proof of employment or income, such as recent pay stubs or W2 forms. If you are about to start a new job, you may need a letter from your new employer. Your photo ID. Personal references (e.g., from professors or employers).  Information about your co-signer, if you have one. This may be necessary if you have poor credit, no credit history, or don’t meet the minimum income requirement for the apartment. Many apartments require a fee for your application and credit check. These fees can range from $15-20 sometimes coming up to $100 or more in the U.S. If you won’t be moving into your apartment right away, your landlord may also ask you to pay a deposit so they can hold your apartment while you’re getting ready to move in.  If you are approved, you may need to pay additional fees, such as a security deposit or pet deposit. Check the laws in your area to make sure the landlord or management company is not charging you illegal fees. For example, in Boston, it is illegal for landlords to charge application fees, credit check fees, finder’s fees, or a fee for holding an apartment. Once you’re approved for an apartment, you’ll be given a lease or rental agreement. Before signing, review your lease to make sure you understand the terms. Read the fine print carefully, and bring up any concerns you have with the landlord or property manager. If you have the means to do so, it's also worth considering having an attorney take a look at the lease. They can help you renegotiate/understand it. Doing a walk-through can help you spot any issues that need to be resolved right away. It is also helpful to have a record of any problems that were present before you moved in. That way, you’ll be able to prove to your...


Fill out the paperwork. Pay the fee. Wait for your card. Always carry the original letter of recommendation with the seal and doctor signature. Visit a dispensary.

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Once you've received authorization from a doctor, most states will require you to fill out a form and enroll in a registry of approved patients.  It's possible the approving doctor will have the necessary paperwork. Otherwise, it should be available online. Depending where you live, you may be able to scan the paperwork and the physician's documentation to submit via the internet, as is the case in the state of New Jersey. In other places, you may need to submit the documentation in person, as is the case in San Diego County. Ask the doctor or find your state's requirements online. Most (but not all) states also require you to pay a fee to receive your license. How and when you pay your fee will vary by state, but there should be instructions available with your registration paperwork. State fees range from $10 to $200. Even if your paperwork is approved, don't try to purchase medical marijuana until you've received your card. In most states, it will take a few days to review your paperwork, and then your card will come in the mail. In California, some clinics that do medical marijuana screenings can issue you a card on-site. Most dispensaries and law enforcement will ask for the original document and in some places the card is not valid unless there is a seal and doctors signature. Once your card has arrived, you can visit a licensed dispensary and purchase marijuana.  In most dispensaries you must show your current state ID card along with your recommendation. In many states, such as Arizona this is the only way to obtain medical marijuana legally. If you buy it from another source, you may still be in violation of state laws.


Fill rodent burrows in your yard to stop yellow jackets from nesting there. Seal holes that lead into your home with caulk to keep wasps out. Hang up a fake wasp nest to warn away yellow jackets.

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Unlike other flying insects, yellow jackets will sometimes nest underground. To prevent his, scan your yard for any holes in the ground dug by rodents or pets. Fill the burrows in with soil and pack them firmly to ensure that they are properly sealed off. Underground yellow jacket nests can be dangerous as simple tasks like using your lawnmower could trigger an attack. Inspect the outside of your home for any signs of wear and tear, as wasps and other insects can use small openings to gain access and build a nest inside. Use a caulking gun to fill gaps, holes, or cracks around the perimeter. Position the gun at a 45-degree angle and squeeze the trigger to distribute a thick stream of caulking into the spots you are filling.  Acrylic caulking is suitable for holes smaller than 0.25 inches (0.64 cm), while holes larger than 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) should be filled with polyurethane caulking.  Infestations of yellow jackets into your home will most likely require the expertise of a professional exterminator. Wasps are territorial and will not make a nest within a few hundred feet of where one is already situated. Purchase a fake nest online or in a local hardware store. Hang the nest in a visible spot near your home to keep yellow jackets and other wasps at bay. Purchase a fake nest that is weatherproof and durable.


Fill the Christmas cracker with your choice of goodies. Add a traditional paper crown. Add Christmas greetings, facts, and jokes. Add some small gifts. Add an element of surprise with confetti or glitter. Tuck in a few coins or paper bills. Keep your gifts together by packaging them.

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Tie it shut with a matching piece of ribbon or string. You do not have to fill your Christmas cracker with everything listed in this section. Instead, use the ideas for inspiration. Choose items that suit your budget, party theme and guest needs. One of the most popular items is the paper crown. It is great for both adults and children. Make your own out of gold poster paper or from butcher paper. Here's how you do it:  Measure your head and add 2 inch (5.1 cm). Cut a 2.5 inch (6.4 cm) strip of paper according to that measurement. Cut a zigzag pattern into one of the long edges. Overlap the two narrow ends by 1 inch (2.5 cm) and secure them with a piece of double sided tape. Roll up the crown into a tube, then tie it up with a piece of string. This allows the crown to fit inside your cracker. You can find lots of Christmas themed facts and jokes online or make up your own. Write or print your greetings, facts, and jokes on little slips of paper. Step it up with decorations of Christmas themed stickers, stamps, or simple illustrations. Washi tape around the borders can make a nice touch. Here are some examples of messages you can include:  A fortune  A riddle A blessing or a spiritual message A recipe You can find lots of small items that can fit inside a Christmas cracker in the goodie bag section of a party store. The dollar section of an arts and crafts store also have some suitable items. Many stores have a stocking stuffer section during the holiday season. Browse through these sections and pick out items to stuff your crackers. Here are ideas to get you started:  Candies or chocolates Costume jewelry, such as "pearl" necklaces and clip-on earrings Mini manicure kits and mini bottles of nail polish Mini stationery items: notepads, pens, novelty erasers, etc. Plastic figurines, toy cars, etc. Small toys: spinning top, dice, hopping frog, etc. Vouchers or gift cards for music, cafes, restaurants, etc. Keep in mind that this can get messy. Only do this if you don't mind cleaning up afterwards. To avoid...


Fill the bag less than half full of tank water, then add the fish. Add pure oxygen to the bag, if possible. Secure the top of the bag tightly with rubber bands.

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Basically, you want to fill the bag with just enough water to sustain the fish for their journey, and leave as much room for oxygenated air in the bag as possible. Once you’ve filled the bag one-third to one-half full of tank water, scoop up the fish in an aquarium fish net and add it to the bag.  Get bigger bags if filling them halfway doesn’t provide enough water to cover the fish and allow them some amount of free movement. To scoop fish more easily, corral them into a corner of the tank with the scoop, then bring the scoop up from beneath them. Use steady movements instead of jerking motions that might frighten the fish. Experienced fish shippers know just how many fish they can fit into a single bag to maximize their efforts. Until you gain that amount of experience, however, it’s much wiser to place only one fish in a bag. You can, however, pack multiple bags into the box. If you have access to a canister of condensed oxygen, use it to inflate the bag after you’ve added the water and the fish. This will provide the water—and, in turn, the fish—with substantially more oxygen over the span of their journey.  Otherwise, use a hand pump to fill the bag with room air. This should still be sufficient to sustain the fish for 2-3 days in most cases. Don’t inflate the bag by exhaling into it like it’s a balloon. You’ll fill it with carbon dioxide and the fish won’t survive the journey. Fold the flap over on the top of the bag, then keep wrapping and twisting a rubber band over the folded flap as many times as you can. Add a second or third rubber band for added security. While one high-quality bag should do the job, you can add some insurance by double, triple, or even quadruple-bagging the fish. Secure the tops of these extra bags after you’ve sealed the primary bag.


Fill the baptistry with warm water ahead of time. Make sure the person wears appropriate clothing. Tell the person to keep calm and avoid struggling. Walk into the water.

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You’ll need to fill the baptistry early enough that it has time to fill, which could take 20-30 minutes. At the same time, don’t fill it so early that the water gets cold, unless the baptistry is equipped with a heater. Ignore this part if you are not using a baptistry. Baptisms can be performed in any standing body of water such as the ocean, a pool, or a river. Before you perform the baptism, check over the person’s clothes. Make sure white clothing is thick enough that it won’t become see through. If they are wearing anything loose, make sure it won’t float up and accidentally reveal something. Shorts are better to wear than pants, so they don’t retain as much water. Dark, tight-fitting clothing is often the best. Some churches have robes specifically designated for baptisms. Since the feeling of falling backwards may cause the person to tense up or fight against you, warn them of this possibility ahead of time. Tell them to relax as much as possible and remember that you will be supporting them. This is a good time to tell them about how you’ll lower them and then raise them back up. Tell them that you’ll need them to work with you as you raise them up out of the water. Get into the water first, and have the person who is being baptized follow you. Most of the time, you will stand facing the audience and the person being baptized will face sideways. Position yourself so your chest is next to their shoulder.  In some situations, the person being baptized may face the audience. You should still stand at their side, so you can properly support them.


Fill the bathtub with lukewarm water around 70 °F (21 °C). Soak your pet in the bath so that all of its fur is wet. Apply the soap to your pet’s fur until it’s completely lathered. Wait 5 minutes, then rinse all of the soap off of your pet’s fur. Empty the bathtub and dry off your pet with a towel when you’re done. Repeat this process if you still see fleas on your pet.

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This temperature will be warm enough to keep your pet comfortable without shocking it. Fill the bathtub so that the water only comes up to around your pet’s stomach.  For example, if the bottom of your pet’s belly is about 1 foot (0.30 m) off the ground, then you should fill the tub with about 1 foot (0.30 m) of water. If you’re washing a smaller animal, such as a ferret, fill a large bucket with lukewarm water instead of a bathtub. Avoid getting any water in your pet’s eyes or ears, since it may irritate them. Make sure all of the fur is completely soaked through before proceeding. This is especially important for pets with thick fur, since it will take more water for them to get completely soaked. The amount of soap you use will depend on how large your pet is, as well as how badly it’s infested with fleas. Start with a small quantity of dish soap (e.g., around 2 to 3 teaspoons (9.9 to 14.8 mL)) and add additional dish soap as needed. Start applying the soap at the neck and work your way down towards the tail.  Avoid getting any of the soap in your pet’s eyes or ears. Be gentle while scrubbing, but make sure you scrub deeply enough to get to the skin where the fleas will hide. If the pet cries, you're scrubbing too roughly. If your pet’s coat is particularly thick, try using a pet brush to get the soap deep down into its fur. Allow about 5 minutes for the dish soap to completely kill the fleas before you begin rinsing. Use a cup of water or a handheld shower head to wash the soap off. Start from the top of your pet’s body and work your way down towards the tail.  For best results, use a flea comb to brush your pet’s fur as you rinse off the soap to make sure you’re removing as many fleas as possible. You may need to spray a lot of water in a single area in order to completely rinse off all of the dish soap. Be very cautious when washing around the eyes. If contact with the eyes occurs, rinse them with cool water and dry them with a towel. Once you stop seeing live fleas in your pet’s fur, drain the water...


Fill the bathtub with lukewarm water. Put on the jeans to begin stretching them out. Remove the jeans and hang them up to dry.

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Fill it at least ⅓ of the way full, enough to cover your legs. Make sure the water is comfortable enough to sit in. Hot and cold water not only feel uncomfortable but can also damage the jeans.  If you don’t have a bathtub available for use, you can still stretch out your jeans. Fill up a sink or bucket with warm water instead. If you only need to stretch out a few areas, consider spraying those spots with warm water and then tugging them into shape. After slipping on the jeans, zipper and button them if you are able to. If you’re not able to fit into the jeans at all, you will need to wash them by hand. Close the zipper and fasten any buttons before attempting to stretch the fabric. Try to get the jeans into their original shape as much as possible. It’s easier if you’re able to squeeze into the jeans, but sometimes that isn’t possible. Don’t put them on if they are too tight. Place your wet jeans on a clothesline or a drying rack. Keep them out of direct heat and sunlight but try to find a spot with good air circulation. That will help the fabric dry out. While it dries, gravity will also pull the jeans down to stretch them out further. Don’t put the jeans back in the dryer! Heat causes your clothing to shrink. Direct sunlight can also fade a good pair of jeans.


Fill the bladder with hot water. Pinch the bite valve. Create a soap and water solution. Remove the hose. Rinse the parts with warm water.

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Place one cleaning tablet into the bladder. Close the cap. Lay the bladder on its back and let the tablet dissolve for five minutes. Once the tablet has dissolved, shake the bladder for 30 to 40 seconds in order to diffuse the cleaning solution.  You can purchase hydraulic cleaning tablets online. Alternatively, you can use denture tablets instead of the hydraulic cleaning tablets. Pinching the bite valve will allow the cleaning solution to flow into the tube and mouthpiece. Once the solution is in the tube and mouthpiece, let it set for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, poor the solution out. Mix 3/4 teaspoon (3.7 ml) of a mild soap with ¾ cup (177 ml) of water per liter volume. Pour the soapy solution into the bladder. Pinch the bite valve again to allow the soapy solution to travel into the tube and mouthpiece. Shake the bladder for 30 seconds and then pour out the solution. Use a pipe cleaner-like scrub brush to scrub the inside of the hose. Then use a bigger scrub brush or sponge to clean the inside of the bladder. Scrub both the tube and bladder until any and all residue is gone. Rinse until all the soap is completely removed; you may need to rinse it two to three times. Then take the disassembled parts to a well-ventilated area, like an outside patio or the bathroom, to air dry. You may need to insert a wand-like object into the bladder’s entrance to keep it propped open so it can dry thoroughly.


Fill the bong with the roughly one cup of rubbing alcohol. Add 2-3 tablespoons of large-grain salt. Seal up the openings to the bong with your hands. Shake the bong to "scrub" it with the salt. Soak the bong in the alcohol or cleaning products if you have difficult or hard to scrub stains. Give the bong a nice shine with some water and lemon juice.

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This is for a roughly 112{\displaystyle 1{\frac {1}{2}}}ft bong, so adjust accordingly if yours is bigger or smaller. Like with the smaller pieces, 91% isopropyl is the best option, but you can use professional cleaning products like Simple Green as well. If you have separate percolators or sections, add an extra 1/3 cup or so to each percolator. If you're eyeballing your measurements, simply add as much alcohol, and in all the same places, as you would add water if you were smoking. You can use fine-grained table salt, but course salt will work better every time. Again add it to every section of the bong, percolators and all, where you added alcohol. Don't worry if you can't get the salt everywhere just yet -- it will be easier when you start shaking. Use your palms and fingers to seal off the openings to the bong, holding it tightly as well. You can hold down old towels as well to prevent water from seeping out. However, you must have a firm grasp of the bong as well. You'll need to shake it vigorously to clean it, so you must be able to hold on without dropping it. The alcohol will loosen the resin and make it easier to remove. The salt will act as a sponge, wiping away the rest of the resin where you can't reach it. For a deep clean, you may have to rotate and turn the bong in order to get the salt to hard to reach areas. If you haven't cleaned your bong after months of use, you may need to let it soak. This is often where cleaning solutions like Solution 420 come in handy, as they are meant to mix with water and left for longer periods of time. Soak the bong overnight and, when done, re-clean it with salt and isopropyl alcohol. Use a cotton swab or pipe cleaner to remove any last little stains. To get rid of any water marks, soak the piece for 10-15 minutes warm water and 1/2 a lemon's worth of juice, or 1/2 a cup of white vinegar. When done, make sure you dry the piece thoroughly.


Fill the bottle halfway up with a warm water and soap solution. Rinse and dry the bottle. Use a bottle brush. Scrub the ridges.

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The easiest way to clean your stainless steel water bottle is to fill it halfway with water and squirt a few drops of liquid dish soap into it.  Replace the bottle’s cap.  Shake the bottle vigorously for several seconds.  Unscrew the bottle, then empty its contents. Successively fill and empty the bottle several times with warm water.  Turn it upside down and place it in your dishrack to dry. If the mouth of your stainless steel water bottle is too narrow for you to reach the bottom and inside of the bottle using a traditional sponge, you can use a bottle brush to clean it.  A bottle brush is an elongated cleaning device to help you clean the deep recesses of your stainless steel water bottle.  These are especially useful if you’ve filled your stainless steel water bottle with something other than water. Some stainless steel water bottles come with a bottle brush.  If yours did not, though, you can obtain one online or at your local outdoor goods store. If your stainless steel water bottle has a screw-on top, it is important to clean the threading that winds around the mouth of the bottle.  To do this, just dampen a sponge with soapy water and grip the inside and outside of the bottle’s mouth with the sponge.  Rub the sponge along the mouth of the bottle several times to get it clean.


Fill the bottle ½ to ¾ of the way with concrete. Tap the bottle against your work surface. Push a smaller bottle down into the concrete. Add more concrete, if necessary. Smooth out the concrete, if desired.

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Pour the concrete in slowly so as to minimize air bubbles. Don't worry if the concrete doesn't fill your large bottle all the way. The next couple of steps will fix that. This will remove any air bubbles and make the surface of your vase smoother in the end. Keep in mind that the finished product may still have some air bubbles. This is perfectly normal and part of the beauty of concrete. Do not push it all the way to the bottom of the vase, however. As you push the bottle into the cement, the cement will raise and fill the rest of the big bottle. If the concrete overflows, simply brush it away. Try not to get any concrete into the smaller bottle. If the concrete level isn't high enough, use a spoon to scoop more concrete into the large bottle. Keep doing this until the bottle is filled. Once again, avoid getting any concrete into the small bottle. Wet your finger, then use it to smooth down the concrete between the two bottles. You can also leave it as it is for a more jagged, rustic touch.