Clean the boat thoroughly. Remove hardware from the boat. Use a solvent to remove the waxy coating from the boat. Make any necessary repairs to the boat surface. Sand the boat thoroughly.

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You need to get everything off of the surface, from dirt and sand to marine life and seaweed. In general, it is easiest to clean the surface of the boat as it comes out of the water. Use a high-pressure hose, a scrapper, and rags to make the boat spotless. You want to take off as much as possible, down to any aluminum window siding. This could cause a crease between the hardware and the paint, which will allow water to get into the cracks and ruin the paint. Anything you cannot remove you should cover in painter's tape to keep clean and protected. If you can feel the greasy, waxy finish on your boat you will need to remove it before painting. Using rough sponges and boat solvents, like Awl-Prep, scrub away the waxy finish.  Generally, running your finger along the surface, top or bottom, will tell you if there is still a coating-- it feels like a candle or a freshly waxed car. If you are in any doubt about the coating, go over the boat again -- paint will not stick to this waxy surface, so it all needs to go. Fill in any nicks, cracks, or corrosion before you start painting to prevent holes or imperfections in the final paint job. Make sure you fill in any holes with marine-grade epoxy, found near the marine paint in hardware and boat stores. Using 80-grit sandpaper and a random-orbit or finishing sander, sand the entire surface of the boat. This gives the paint a surface to "grip" to and promotes an even coat of paint. When in doubt, sand away all of the old paint. There are several important considerations to take when sanding:  If the old coat of paint is flaky or damaged you will need to strip it and sand it away entirely. If the old paint is a different type than the one you plan to apply (non-vinyl vs vinyl paint), then remove it entirely. Never use a belt sander on your boat  Warning: wear a respirator and eye protection when sanding, as paint chips are toxic.


Clean the broccoli and cut it into bite-size pieces. Cover the bowl tightly to trap in the steam.

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Rinse the broccoli under running water and check the crowns for any hidden insects. Dry the head of broccoli with paper towels, then use a sharp kitchen knife to cut the florets into bite size pieces. Trim the stalks into 0.125 in (3.2 mm) thick discs, then cut the discs in half if they’re bigger than bite size.  Even if you don’t plan to eat the stalks, cut them up so you can place them in the bottom of the bowl. This will keep the tender florets from boiling in the water in the bottom of the bowl. An average head of broccoli is roughly 1 lb (450 g) in weight. If your microwave-safe bowl has a lid, secure it on snugly so that most of the steam cannot escape. If you do not have a lid for your dish, use microwave-safe plastic wrap instead. Alternatively, if you prefer not to use plastic wrap, place a microwave-safe plate over the top of the bowl. Make sure it makes a snug seal over the rim of the bowl.


Clean the cage liner every day. Wash food and water dishes daily. Deep clean the cage once a week.

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Regular cage cleaning is an important part of keeping your cockatoo happy and healthy. Remove the liner from the bottom of the cage every day and dispose of any bird droppings or food. Replace with a clean liner. Food and water dishes can easily become soiled. It is important that you keep them as clean as possible. Remove the food and water dishes from your cockatoo’s cage daily. Wash them in hot, soapy water, dry them, and then return them to the cage. Each week, you will need to deep clean your cockatoo’s cage. In addition to replacing the liners and washing the food and water dishes, you will need to clean the cage itself with hot, soapy water. You should also clean any toys or perches in the cage, as well as vacuum or sweep the floor around the cage. Make sure you remove any broken toys or pieces of the cage during the cleaning.


Clean the cookware. Rinse thoroughly and dry.

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It doesn't have to be 100 percent bare metal––scrape it off with a metal implement and then scrub repeatedly with small amounts of baking soda and soap until it stops making the soda black.


Clean the cut. Apply pressure to stop the bleeding. Dress the wound. Watch for infection.

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Wash it well with soap and water for at least 5 to 10 minutes. Any type of soap and clean water is generally fine. Studies have shown that there is no significant difference if you use antiseptic solutions like hydrogen peroxide or antimicrobial soap for a generally clean cut.  The key is to use copious amounts of irrigation. If there is dirt, glass, or another object in the cut that does not wash out easily, or if the wound is from a dirty or rusty object or animal bite, you should call your doctor. After the cut is clean, press a clean cloth or bandage to the area for at least 15 minutes. You can also help slow the bleeding by holding the cut above the level of your heart.  To prevent the clotting blood from coming off when you remove the pressure dressing, you can use a nonstick cloth like Telfa gauze. If the cut continues to bleed after this, call your doctor. Apply a thin layer of antibiotic ointment and cover it with a bandage or gauze. Keep the wound dry and clean by changing the bandage one or two times daily until it heals. Try to give the wound a couple hours of time in the open air after the first two or three days, as this helps speed healing. If you develop signs of infection, call your doctor. These include warmth or redness around the wound, pus draining from the wound, increased pain at the site, or fever.


Clean the decal and the surrounding area. Rinse and dry the area. Start lightly picking at the weaker points of the decal.

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Fill a small bucket with warm water and add a couple squirts of liquid dish detergent or laundry soap. Dunk a sponge in the bucket and rub the area well to ensure that no dirt or grime interfere with the decal’s ability to separate. Pour some fresh, clean water over the area to remove any suds. With a clean microfiber cloth, thoroughly rub the decal and the area around it dry until there are no more traces of soap or water. You can also just let it air dry for several minutes if you’re willing to wait a while longer. Take a good look at the sticker and try to figure out where its weaker spots are. If, for instance, one of the corners of the decal is already lifting up a little on its own, start pulling away at that corner.


Clean the drive post with a small wire brush. Install the replacement wiper arm. Align the blade with the mark you made on the windshield. Place the replacement wiper arm on the post. Seat the wiper arm point of attachment fully on the post. Secure the wiper arm to the base. Test your wipers.

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Remove any rust and debris from threaded posts with a wire brush.  Apply a drop or two of oil (or other light lubricant) on post threads prior to reinstalling wiper arm. arm. This will be slightly different depending on how your wipers attach to the drive post. This ensures that the wiper arm will rest in the appropriate place and travel the correct path when turned on. Once you have the arm aligned with your mark, place the other end of the arm on the post. Again, take care to keep the blade on the mark. This can be done by pushing down forcefully or by gently tapping it into place with a rubber mallet. This step will be slightly different depending on the type of wiper arm you have.  Bolt-on wiper arms are secured by twisting the nut back onto the drive post in a clockwise direction and replacing the cover. Clip-on wiper arms are secured by seating the base fully on the drive post and squeezing or tapping the lip or flange against the base. Spring-loaded wiper arms are secured by removing the pin and allowing the wiper blade to rest on the windshield. You want to be confident that they will work when you need them. Always test new parts before getting out on the open road.


Clean the dust jacket.

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Many books now come with dust jackets. These paper coverings are generally glossy or matte in finish. While they’re attractive, they often get dusty and may also tear. Use your soft cloth to gently brush any dust or dirt off the jacket.


Clean the filter every two weeks. Use a granular filter cleaner for your hot tub, like Power Soak or Eco Soak, to clean your filter every 3-4 months. Clean your hot tub cover once a month. Condition your vinyl hot tub cover once a month during the summer and 3-4 times throughout the year. Clean the mildew inside the vinyl covering if you have mildew problems. Be careful handling your cover. Protect your spa cover from the elements. Use a patch on your cover if it rips.

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To unclog and clean your spa filter, take the cartridge out of the filter. Using a hose, run water over each pleat in the cartridge and clean any dirt and foreign matter out of the filter. Make sure to let the cleaned filter air dry completely before putting it back in your filter.  Replace the spa filter when it has become damaged or has stopped working. You’ll know this is the case when the filter quickly become dirty again after you have cleaned it. If you are cleaning your filter cartridge in a dishwasher, be sure to turn off the built-in water heater. Water over 140 °F (60 °C) can damage the filter. Also use the cleanser on your filter every time you replace the water in your tub.  Replace the dirty filter with a new, clean filter while your dirty filter is being cleaned. Clean out the filter with a hose, soak it the solution overnight, or following the instructions on the cleanser, and then let it dry it completely before putting it back into your filter. The least expensive filter cleaner is TSP - TriSodium Phosphate. This is the main ingredient in many dishwasher detergents. You can use one cup TSP with five gallons of water to make a cleaning solution for your filter. The first step to maintaining a clean spa is keeping the cover in good working order because it does the majority of the work to keep your spa clean. Before you apply your vinyl protector, you should clean your hot tub cover. If you have an acrylic cover, you do not have to condition the cover, but you should clean it once a month. You can use a gentle purpose cleaner and a rag or soft sponge on the hot tub cover to clean it.  Do not use abrasives, dish soaps or any detergents to clean the cover, because they can damage the topcoat of the vinyl causing it to deteriorate faster  Choose a warm or sunny day to wash your cover so it gets lots of sun while it air dries. Conditioning your cover will prolong its life. Conditioning the cover protects it against UV rays that break the chemical bonds and cause the cover to harden and crack....


Clean the flag before storing it to keep it in good condition. Fold the flag properly Store the flag in a dark place with low humidity.

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Avoid washing the flag in a washing machine, as it might damage the flag if it’s fragile. Use a low-pressure vacuum cleaner to remove any dirt or dust from the flag’s surface. when storing it. Folded properly, the flag should look like a small triangle with only the blue field of white stars visible. Light can cause the colors on the flag to fade, and humidity might cause mold to form on the flag.


Clean the floor regularly with a damp dust mop. Use a vacuum to suck up dirt, dust, and hair. Use a cloth wipe for touch-ups. Avoid using improper cleaning materials.

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Pergo floors will attract dust, so you’ll want to make sure you wipe it clean regularly with a dust mop to remove the most obvious particles. A regular wipe with a dry mop or static cloth should get most of the dust.  Before wiping down the floor, wet your dust mop slightly. A bucket of water nearby should be enough to keep the mop moist. You don’t want to soak your mop, just get it damp. If it is too wet, wring it out before putting on the floor.  If you are cleaning in sections, you can also use a spray to mist the floor before mopping. Mix 1 cup (240 mL) of white vinegar with 1 gallon (3.8 L) of warm water. Pour the mixture into a spray bottle, spray the floor, then quickly wipe with your mop. There should not be any moisture left after a minute of drying. Clean dirt or other obvious impurities with a vacuum cleaner. Put your vacuum on a setting for hard floors, or use an attachment if you are particularly concerned about scratching the surface. For small sections of the floor in need of a quick cleaning, a cloth wipe should pick up the dirt or dust. It is better to keep the cloth dry, but you can moisten it slightly for a little more adhesion. Just make sure there is no moisture left over after you are done wiping. Like other forms of laminate flooring, there are common cleaning products you should not use because they will damage the floor. Make sure you avoid using this cleaners.  Never use cleaners with soap or detergent and avoid using wax or polish. These products can leave a residue that makes the floor dull and filmy. Do not use a steam cleaner or similar device. The excess moisture will leave streaks in the floor.


Clean the furniture with soap and water to remove surface dirt. Sand Apply sealer to the furniture if it is porous. Wipe the furniture with a towel so it is completely dry. Use painter’s tape to create a design on the furniture for the gold leaf.

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Start by wiping the furniture down with a cloth that has been dampened with soap and water. Rub the furniture lightly with the cloth so there is no dirt or dust on the surface. If you are gold leafing furniture that is metal or wood that is smooth and has a thin layer of paint on it, a wipe down is all that is needed to prepare it for the gold leaf. wood furniture if it has bumps or cracks to smooth it out. If you are using a wood furniture item that has bumps, cracks or scratches, you will need to smooth these out by sanding them with medium sandpaper that has a #120 or #150 grit. Lightly rub the sandpaper over the bumps or cracks to smooth them out so the wood is even. This will make applying the gold leaf easier.  You can also sand wood furniture that has thick layers of paint or uneven paint to make it smooth and even. Use a tack cloth to remove any debris or sanded bits that appear on the furniture once you are done sanding it. If the furniture is unfinished, you may want to seal it with paint sealer to ensure the gold leaf adheres to it. Look for paint sealer at your local hardware store or online. You may need to paint the furniture first before you seal it to ensure the wood is no longer porous. Make sure the furniture is dry to the touch, as this will ensure the gilding adhesive sticks properly to it. If the furniture is very wet, you may need to wipe it down with a dry cloth and let it dry overnight. You may block out vertical or horizontal lines on the furniture with painter’s tape to create a sleek, simple design. Or you may try creating circles or shapes with the painter’s tape so the gold leaf appears as a geometric design on the furniture. Make sure the painter’s tape is secure on the furniture and easy to follow, as this will make applying the gold leaf easier.


Clean the glass thoroughly with a microfiber cloth. Wear protective attire. Prepare the workspace.

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It’s crucial that the area where you plan to cut is thoroughly cleaned before you begin. Even tiny dust particles can interrupt the cut and lead to uncontrolled breakage. Wipe the glass down using a quality glass cleaner or rubbing alcohol. Use a microfiber cloth – the tiny fibers can clean even microscopic dirt particles.  Avoid using cotton or nylon cloths on the glass, since these can leave behind large fibers and dust. Use a clean, dry microfiber cloth to go over the surface once more before you begin. Make surface must be completely dry. During the cutting process, tiny glass shards will be flying through the air at very high speeds. These could potentially get in your eyes or cut your skin. Safety goggles, heavy-duty work gloves and a long-sleeved shirt will protect you. Make sure they are of a high quality. Do not rub your face or eyes while you’re working with glass.  Avoid wearing open-toed shoes and sandals during this project. Never handle freshly cut glass unless you’re wearing thick gloves. The edges will be extremely sharp. You will need to cut thick glass on a hard, flat surface that is completely free of debris. The work surface needs to be sturdy and, if possible, covered in felt or some other type of soft material. When you start cutting the glass, a great deal of tension will be created – the soft surface will allow the glass to withstand it.  If you don’t have a felted tabletop, cover the work surface with a piece of cardboard. Duct tape it firmly in place. Keep a small broom and trash can nearby. Cutting will generate glass chips, which can interrupt the accuracy of your cut and damage your tools. You will need to stop periodically during the process to brush them away.


Clean the grips with water, hand soap, and a bristle brush. Repeat the process at least once per month. Sand the grips when they start to wear out. Replace the grips if there is too many cracked, shiny, or worn areas.

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Rinse the grips with water first, then apply a little hand soap. Gently scrub the grips with a bristle brush, then rinse them clean again.  Be sure to dry the grips immediately afterwards with a towel. Never leave steel-shafted clubs in water, even if you need to soak the grip. This can cause rust to accumulate in the nooks and crannies. Keep in mind that you may have to clean the grips more often than that depending on how hot it is, how much you sweat, and how often you use the clubs. If the grips start to look shiny or feel greasy and leave behind black marks on your hands, it is time to clean them. Establish a cleaning routine for your grips. For example, you could clean them on the first day of each month. This will make it easier to remember. Lightly buff the grips lengthwise, from top to bottom, with coarse or medium-grit sandpaper. Rinse the residue off with water, then pat them dry with a towel. This should help restore their texture and may remove some surface dirt as well. Sanding the grips should take care of shiny or cracked spots, but sometimes they get too old and worn. If sanding doesn't fix these problem areas, you should get new grips.


Clean the gutters. Inspect the gutters for missed debris. Remove small bits of remaining debris and check downspout flow.

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Hold your gutter vacuum at roughly the base of the extension attachment. Switch on your vacuum. Pass the downward-facing end of the hook slowly over the gutter to remove leaves, twigs, and other debris. If your gutters are especially clogged, you may need to empty your vacuum while cleaning. Overly full vacuums may have decreased suction and leave behind gutter buildup. Although most of the buildup will likely be gone after vacuuming, stubborn blockages may remain. Lean a suitable ladder against your home and climb it to visually inspect the gutters. Dismount the ladder, then target remaining clogs with your gutter vacuum. Some obstructions may still remain even after being targeted with your gutter vacuum. Use a tree trimmer, pole, or a sturdy stick to poke at and loosen these obstructions. Suck up loosened material with your vacuum. Tie a garden hose to a pole or long stick. Turn on the hose and lift it up to the gutter. Rinse the entire gutter with water to remove any small debris remaining. Poor water flow at the downspout may indicate a blockage in the spout. Clogs can be removed from downspouts with a plumbing snake. Use the snake in the same fashion you would to remove a clogged drain.


Clean the handle and stem of your umbrella with a clean, damp cloth. Dab some superglue onto both the stem and the inside of the handle. Press and hold the separate pieces together for 20-60 seconds. Wind some small-gauge wire around the stem for additional support.

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Wet a washcloth or lint-free rag with warm water and use it to wipe down both the metal stem and the inside of the handle where the stem inserts. A quick cleaning is necessary to ensure that the glue you'll be using will stick properly.  You can also clean your umbrella with rubbing alcohol if you encounter any particularly heavy grime or rust.  A good wipedown will also help get rid of any dust or dirt that's built up on older umbrellas over the years. Angle the nozzle of the bottle to better spread the glue around the inner surface of the handle. Super glue is designed to provide a super-grippy hold, so you won't need to use a lot. Apply steady pressure to make sure your umbrella dries straight. Once that time is up, the connection should be strong enough to help the umbrella hold its shape.  Super glue dries fast, but it takes a little time to cure completely. Hold off on using your umbrella for about an hour after putting it back together. This method may not be effective enough to repair heavy umbrellas made from materials like steel and wood that have a lot of heft. In this case, you may have no choice but to replace the umbrella. If you think your umbrella could use a little extra reinforcement after gluing, wrap a length of 20/2-gauge wire in an 'X' pattern on either side of the connection site. It may not be pretty, but it will help prevent the handle and stem from coming separated again.  If possible, tuck the loose end of the wire underneath the wrapped section to keep it from coming unwound. If you really want to make sure the wire stays put, dab a bead of super glue into the seams. It will take a lot more than a rainstorm to pry it loose!


Clean the handle. Soak the flosser tip. Replace the tip every three to six months.

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Press the button to eject the flosser tip. Fill a container with white vinegar. Place the flosser handle in the container. Allow it to soak for five to seven minutes. Rinse off the handle with warm water. You’ll soak the tip separately from the handle. Press the eject button to remove the tip. Fill a container with white vinegar or hydrogen peroxide. Soak the tip in the container for five to seven minutes. Rinse the tip off with warm water. Over time, the tip will get clogged with mineral deposits. This will interfere with its effectiveness. You can order replacement tips directly from Waterpik. Regularly replacing the tip will help to keep your Waterpik operating effectively.


Clean the hookah. Pour cold water into the vase. Add ice (optional). Insert the hookah shaft into the glass base. Connect the hoses. Check the air flow. Position the metal tray on top of the hookah shaft.

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Wash the hookah with water and a soft brush before using it for the first time, and whenever it gets dirty. Disconnect all parts first, and wash every one except the hoses; assume these are not water-safe unless labeled otherwise. Wipe it dry with a towel and leave it to air dry before you continue.  Cleaning after every session is ideal, but definitely clean whenever you see residue on the vase, or when the smoke doesn't taste right. A long, thin brush helps you reach inside long parts. You might find good brushes at stores that sell hookahs. This is the large glass container at the base of the hookah. Fill it enough to cover 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the metal stem, or slightly more. Leaving space for air is important to dilute the smoke and make it easy to draw on the hose. If you have a mini hookah, you may only be able to cover ½ inch (1.25cm) of the stem to leave room for air and avoid soaking the hoses.  The stem is the metal tip at the bottom of the central hookah shaft. Slot the shaft on top of the vase to see how far down the stem goes. The water doesn't filter out nicotine and other chemicals nearly as much as most smokers believe. Adding more water won't make the hookah safer. Although hookah smoke, properly drawn, is not harsh at all, a nice cool temperature will make it even more pleasurable. You may need to pour out some of the water to adjust it to the correct level, as described above. Lower the shaft into the base, so the stem enters the water. There should be a silicone or rubber piece that fits around the top of the base to make it airtight. If the fit isn't airtight, the smoke will be thin and difficult to pull. If the rubber piece won't fit, wet it with a little water or a drop of dish soap. The hoses slot into holes on the side of the shaft. Just like the base, these holes should be airtight fits. Some hookahs seal the hole if there is no hose attached. On other models, you'll need to attach all the hoses even if you're smoking alone. Double check your water levels before connecting. If the...


Clean the kitchen Get up earlier than your mother. Serve the meal with coffee or juice. Eat with your mother. Clean up after the meal.

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the night before. Wipe down the dining table, kitchen counters, and cooking area. Set the table nicely with placemats, plates, silverware, and cups.  For easy access while cooking, make a list of all the ingredients you need and place them near the front of the fridge and pantry. For an extra special touch, put a vase of fresh flowers on the table as a centerpiece. If possible, get up 30 minutes to an hour before your mother so you can have breakfast ready. If you don’t know when your mother will wake up, make sure any kitchen prep is done so you can cook her meal quickly once she rises. Along with the main course, prepare some coffee or juice for your mother to drink with her meal. To make the day extra special, purchase her favorite sparkling juice or fancy coffee. For coffee, pour it into her favorite mug or a mug you purchased as a gift. If at all possible, sit down and share the meal with your mom. In the end, the dish itself won’t matter. The eggs could be burnt, the pancakes could be hard, and the french toast could be soggy. What matters is the love you showed your mother and the time and effort you put into making her day special. Mother’s Day should be a complete day off for mom, so make sure to put away her dishes and clean up the kitchen once you’re done. Even if she tries to help, make sure she sits down and lets you handle it.


Clean the lentils. Fill up a large pot of water almost all the way. Clean 4-5 pieces of garlic and put them into the pot. Add 4 bay leaves into the pot. Heat the water and other ingredients over high heat. Pour the lentils into the pot. Boil the water. Check the lentils periodically for hardness. After cooking for 20 minutes, add the vinegar, olive oil, and salt to the pot. Turn off the stove and serve the soup.

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Pour one pound of lentils out of the bag onto a clean, flat, white surface and pick out any little rocks that might be mixed in.  You can add a bit more or less, depending on how much garlic you like in your food. Cooking your soup with bay leaves will give it a distinctive flavor.  Leave the pot slightly uncovered, by using a stirring ladle to prop up the cover. After the water reaches a boil, turn it down to medium heat and cook the lentils for 35-45 minutes, depending on how long it takes for them to soften. When they are soft, but not yet coming apart, they are ready. Use a fork or spoon to check on them, stirring occasionally. Add 1/3 cup of vinegar, 1/2 cup of olive oil, and a teaspoon or two of salt to the pot. Stir all of these into the soup and allow to boil for the remainder of the time. Once you have determined that your lentils are ready, turn off the stove, and allow the soup to cool in its pot for a while. This tasty soup can be enjoyed on its own, or served with some bread or sprinkled with Feta cheese. If you want to mix up this recipe, next time, then try making one of these varieties:   Lentil soup with lemon and dill. Just add 3 tablespoons (44.4 ml) of freshly squeezed lemon juice and 1/2 cup of chopped fresh dill to the soup and stir well.  Lentil soup with smoked paprika. Just add one teaspoon of smoked paprika for an extra kick.  Lentil soup with sausage or bacon. Add 1/4 pound of chopped bacon, pancetta, or sausage and cook it in the pot until it's just a bit crisp. Then, add the other ingredients. You can even drain the extra fat or use it instead of olive oil.


Clean the mirror thoroughly with a dampened microfiber cloth. Sketch your design onto the mirror with a water-soluble pencil. Choose areas of your sketch that won’t be painted. Apply a thin coat of white gesso to all areas you plan to paint.

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Mirror glass must be completely clean before you begin, otherwise the paint may not adhere to the surface well. Start by dampening a microfiber cloth with water and wiping the surface to remove any dust. Use a separate microfiber cloth to thoroughly dry the surface.  If your mirror is quite dirty, use a mild soap solution to wipe it down. Follow up with plain water, and then dry the surface with the cloth. To get rid of fingerprints and greasy residue, dip the cloth in a small amount of rubbing alcohol and wipe down the surface. You don’t have to create a highly detailed sketch. Instead, use a white water-soluble pencil to outline the main design elements onto the mirror’s surface. This sketch helps you with placement and acts as a guide when you start painting.  Purchase water-soluble pencils at any art supply store. It’s important to use a water-soluble pencil so you can easily remove any remaining lines once you finish your painting. You don’t have to use white, specifically, white shows up best on a mirrored surface. One of the coolest things about painting on mirrors is that the areas you leave unpainted are just as important as the painted ones. The unpainted areas will remain reflective, acting as an ever-changing back drop to your painted piece.  For example, if you are painting koi onto a mirror, don’t paint the entire water backdrop blue. Leave a few unpainted areas in the water, which will create interesting effects once the painting is finished. If you are painting a portrait, sketch in the form of the person, but leave the backdrop unpainted. Once the painting is complete, the background behind the portrait will be reflective and ever-changing. Gesso will give your acrylic paint something to stick to on your mirror. Use a small paint brush to  fill in all areas you plan to paint with one coat of white gesso. Do not apply gesso on the areas of the mirror you plan to leave reflective – only put it where your design will be painted. Paint right over your penciled lines; the gesso goes on opaque, but...


Clean the mushrooms you are going to dry. Cut the mushrooms. Place the mushrooms on a baking sheet. Preheat the oven to 150 degrees Fahrenheit (65 Celsius). Take the mushrooms out of the oven after an hour. Place the mushrooms back in the oven. Continue to check the mushrooms until they are fully dry. Allow the mushrooms to cool. Store the dried mushrooms in air-tight canisters.

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If possible, use a brush or dry paper towel to wipe any dirt off of the mushrooms. You want to avoid getting the mushrooms wet while cleaning them because the water could cause other competing fungi or mold to grow on the mushroom while they are drying or after they have been stored. This extra fungi or mold could, in turn, make you ill if you eat it. If there are renegade spots of dirt that won’t allow themselves to be brushed away, you can use a damp cloth or paper towel to scrub them off. Just make sure to wipe that same spot with a dry cloth or paper towel to absorb any moisture left behind.    The thicker the mushrooms, the longer it takes for them to dry out. To speed up the drying process, cut the mushrooms into slices approximately 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) thick. They will still have enough flavor packed into the slices that they will be an excellent addition to any dish, but they will dry in a much shorter amount of time than whole mushrooms. Make sure that the mushrooms lay flat and side by side. None of the mushrooms should overlap, as this could cause them to fuse together while drying. Lay them out in one layer. Do not oil the sheets, as the mushrooms will absorb the oil, changing their flavor and causing them to take longer to dry.    Once the oven has reached the designated temperature, place the baking sheet with the mushrooms into the oven. Leave the mushrooms in for one hour. When you take them out, flip them over so that they dry evenly. At this time, blot any moisture that way have risen on their surfaces during the drying process. Use a paper towel or dry cloth to remove any of the moisture. Bake the mushrooms for one more hour or until they are completely dried. When you pull the mushrooms out, check to make sure they do not have any remaining moisture on their surface. If they do, turn them over and dab away any moisture with a paper towel, then return them to the oven.    Repeat the baking and removing moisture process until the mushrooms are totally dry. A properly dehydrated mushroom should...


Clean the new glass. Insert the new piece of glass. Put the frame back together.

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Before you install the glass into the frame, you want to make sure both sides are clean. Spray window or eyeglass cleaner on the piece of glass and wipe with a paper towel. Make sure neither side has any streaks. If you don’t have glass cleaner, vinegar and warm water will work, too. Don’t use a cloth, which will leave small fibers. Since you will have to handle the glass, which could smudge it, you might want to wear gloves of some kind. It will help you avoid getting cut by the edges or smudging the glass as you clean it. If you have measured and chosen the new piece carefully, it should fit just right into the frame. If the piece is just slightly too big, you can use sandpaper to gently sand down the edges just enough to make the piece fit. Depending on the frame, it may be designed so the glass fits tightly. You may have to carefully angle or jiggle the glass to get it into place. If you do need to sand the piece of glass, wear gloves and be sure to sand over a table or counter that can be easily wiped up. Use a wet paper towel to wipe up the glass dust. Put the picture back into the frame. If the frame has any type of cardboard insert, place this in next. Put the back in place and secure it with the clips, if the frame has them.


Clean the nozzle’s opening with warm water. Wipe the nozzle’s opening with paint thinner. Prevent future clogs.

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Before you go to extreme lengths to unclog your spray paint nozzle, try removing the built up paint with warm water. Dampen a fresh rag with clean, warm water. Wipe the nozzle’s opening with the damp rag. Test the spray paint on a piece of scrap material.  While you may scrape out the loosened paint with a needle or toothpick, please note that this is not universally recommended. Inserting a sharp object in the nozzle may damage the spray system.  You may remove the nozzle or leave it attached to the bottle. If the warm water didn’t wash away the paint, you can wipe the opening of the nozzle with paint thinner. Dip a clean rag into the paint thinner. Wipe the nozzle with the rag. Test the spray paint on a piece of extra material.  Before you handle the paint thinner, put on a pair of protective gloves. You may remove the nozzle before cleaning it with paint thinner. After using spray paint, always clear the nozzle of excess paint before you store it. To clear the nozzle:  Turn the bottle upside down. Press down on the nozzle until a clear mist comes out.


Clean the pen if you are refilling the ink for the second time. Take the pen apart. Flush out the nib. Soak the nib in an ammonia mixture overnight. Allow the nib to air dry.

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Fountain pens need to be cleaned periodically to ensure that they will work optimally. When you replace the cartridge every second time, it’s time to clean your pen. The same goes for refilling the ink bottle; if you’ve refilled the bottle twice, it’s time to clean the pen. A fountain pen has several different parts that will need to be disassembled in order to clean the pen thoroughly. Unscrew the pen grip from the barrel.  Take care with the ink cartridge if your pen has one. The ink cartridge is for one-time use and is punctured to release ink into the nib. Since the ink cartridge is punctured, it will leak ink if you turn it upside down. Keep it upright. You might want to use a pen cup or other holder to temporarily store the cartridge while you clean your pen.  If your pen has a converter, remove the converter from the pen assembly. A converter is a reusable reservoir for ink. It can be refilled with bottled fountain pen ink. The nib is the part of the pen that you write with. Ink runs from the ink cartridge or converter through the nib onto paper. Run cool water through the nib. You can either use your faucet (running it lightly) or a syringe that will inject a small amount of water through the nib.  Run the water through the nib until the water runs clear. Use cool water only. Do not use hot water to clean a fountain pen. This temperature can damage the inner workings of the pen. Instead, make sure you have clean, cool water. If your pen has a lot of dried ink that won’t break up with water, you can use an ammonia mixture to loosen the ink. Add one teaspoon of household ammonia to a cup of water. Ammonia will help break up dried ink and any other dirt that may have gotten into the nib. Put the nib in the mixture. Soak it overnight.  You can also use vinegar instead of ammonia. Use one teaspoon of vinegar with one cup of water. Do not use ammonia on Wahl Eversharp pens from the 1920s and 1930s. Likewise, don’t use ammonia to clean a pen with aluminum parts.  These pens will be damaged by the ammonia. Do...


Clean the piercing with saline solution twice daily. Wash your hands Soak a clean gauze pad in saline solution. Hold the gauze pad to the piercing for 5 minutes. Pat the area dry with a clean paper towel.

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Cleaning the piercing more than twice a day can cause irritation. Use a store-bought saline solution or the cleanser your piercer provided. Alternatively, make your own saline solution by mixing 1/8 teaspoon of non-iodized salt with 1 cup (240 mL) of warm water. Don’t clean the piercing with rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide, as these can delay the healing process. before touching your piercing. Wash up with hot water and soap for at least 20 seconds before you clean the piercing. After washing your hands, dry them with a disposable paper towel. Only touch the area around the piercing when you clean it. Use clean, lint-free medical gauze to apply saline to your piercing. Squirt bottled saline onto the gauze pad to saturate it, or dip the pad into a cup of a homemade solution. Don’t use cotton balls or cotton wool; the fibers could get caught in the piercing. Keep the gauze in place to allow the saline to work its way into the piercing. Don’t move the piercing as you clean it. If there’s any crusted buildup around the piercing, allow the saline to soften it, then gently wipe it away when you’ve finished soaking. White or pale yellow buildup is normal. Don’t pick at it; just soften with the saline, then wipe it away. Dry the area with a disposable paper towel instead of a cloth. Leaving it wet could promote bacterial growth. A cloth can harbor bacteria and snag on the piercing, so go with a paper towel.


Clean the plastic. Run a fingernail over the scratch to check its depth. Apply toothpaste to a damp cloth. Wipe the cloth in a circular motion over the scratch. Clean and dry the area.

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Take a clean, damp cloth and dip it into some warm, soapy water. Gently rub it in a circular motion all around the scratch. This will remove any dirt and grease, making it easier to get rid of the scratch. Dry the area with a clean, dry cloth when you’re done. Shallow scratches can often be buffed out. Run your fingernail across the scratch. If it “catches” in the groove, then it is too deep to be buffed out. Deep scratches can only be removed by other methods. A mild abrasive, like toothpaste, helps wipe the scratch away. Use a paste variety, not a gel one. You won’t need to put much on the cloth. Just use enough that you can smear it all over the scratch. Instead of toothpaste, you could also try:  Furniture polish. Commercial plastic polish. Baking soda. Take a couple spoonfuls and mix in enough drops of water to form a smooth paste. Go over the whole scratch, from one end to the other. This buffing action is what can rub the scratch out of the plastic. Keep buffing until the scratch disappears. When you’re done, wipe the area with a fresh damp cloth to remove the paste and residue. Then, take a clean cloth and wipe everything down to dry it.


Clean the playdough. Wash Kool-Aid stains from your child’s skin. Remove Kool-Aid stains from clothing.

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If your child gets playdough on a hard surface, simply wipe the dough away with a damp paper towel. If needed, spray the area with a household cleaner before wiping the dough away. If the dough gets on your carpet, allow the dough to completely dry. Next, vacuum the affected area until all of the crumbs disappear. Playdough and Kool-Aid are difficult to remove from untreated wooden surfaces. If possible, cover the surface with newspapers or a plastic tarp. Kool-Aid powder is notoriously hard to remove, especially from fingertips. First, wash their hands with warm, soapy water. Next, gently rub tarter-control whitening toothpaste over the affected area. Rinse the toothpaste off with water.  This method is also useful for lip stains. Skip the soap and simply rub the affected area with the toothpaste. If the stain is hard to remove, wait a few hours before trying again. You can irritate your child’s skin if you wash it too much. First, spray the stain with ice cold water. Next, cover the stain with a thin layer of borax. Using an old toothbrush, gently work the borax into the fabric. Blot the area with a clean cloth. Repeat the process until the stain has disappeared. Wash the clothing in cold water and air dry the clothing.  Borax is a hazardous chemical and should be handled with care. Wear gloves when you use it and keep it out of the reach of children. To avoid this problem altogether, wear old clothing when cooking or playing with Kool-Aid.


Clean the pumpkin. Cut up the CDs into jagged pieces of different sizes and shapes. Glue the CD pieces to the pumpkin. Use the silver liquid glitter to make a ring around the base of the pumpkin stem. Place the pumpkin on display.

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Remove any dirt or marks from the surface and allow it to dry before gluing. Wear eye protection and gloves when doing this, to avoid being cut by any potential shards. Alternatively, if you have the time and patience, cut them more evenly to look like the real pieces of a disco ball but be aware that doing this will be time-consuming and potentially frustrating.    Apply them all over the pumpkin, leaving small even gaps between the pieces but don't worry too much about making the pieces appear as if they fit together (unless you're doing the very finicky version). If anywhere looks naked on the pumpkin, add a few squirts of liquid glitter to infill but this is optional.    The CD pumpkin disco ball looks best when light is reflected off it, so place near other lit pumpkins or in the glare of some light, such as a lamp, room light or other light sources.


Clean the rear wheels. Remove the bottom cover. Remove the motor unit. Clean the motor with compressed air. Reassemble your Roomba.

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You do not need to remove the rear two wheels in order to clean them. Instead, push the left wheel down and use the crevice tool to vacuum around it. Repeat this on the other side. Using your Phillips screwdriver, remove the four small screws that hold the black bottom cover in place. These screws may be a bit difficult to remove. Then slide off the bottom cover and set it aside. Locate the four tiny screws that hold the rectangular motor unit in place, and carefully remove them. Pull the rectangular unit out of the Roomba (on many models this is blue). With the motor compartment removed, run your vacuum crevice tool over the inside of your Roomba. These screws are very small and delicate. Be careful not to strip the tops of them as you remove them, and set them in a safe place. Using a can of compressed air, carefully work to remove any dust or debris from the motor unit. Pay attention to any crevices and openings. If you do not have compressed air, you can go over the motor with your vacuum crevice tool. However, be very careful not to disturb any wires. Place the motor compartment back inside the Roomba and secure it with the four tiny screws. Then replace the bottom cover and secure it with its four screws. Pop the front wheel back in place. Next, return the bearings to the rubber roller and brush, and return them to the proper compartment (in that order),and close the flap. Then, replace the side-sweeper and secure it with a single screw. Finally, reinsert the collection tray.


Clean the rice Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan. Sauté the garlic and ginger. Add the rice and stock. Season with fish sauce and pepper. Simmer for 60 minutes. Serve hot.

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. Rinse both the glutinous (sticky) rice and long-grained rice in cool, clean water. Drain the water when done.  Pour the rice into a large glass bowl and add roughly three times as much water to the bowl. Use your hands to move the rice around the bowl while it is still submerged under the water. Pour the contents of the bowl through a fine-mesh colander. Discard the water and save the rice. Pour the cooking oil into a medium saucepan with tall sides and a heavy bottom. Set the saucepan on the stove over medium heat. Allow the oil to heat up for 30 to 60 seconds before proceeding. Add the minced garlic and sliced ginger to the hot oil. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 2 minutes.  The two ingredients should become lightly toasted and notably fragrant during this time. Watch the garlic and ginger closely to prevent them from burning. Place the rinsed rice in the saucepan and pour the stock on top. Stir well to combine.  Scrape the bottom and sides of the pot as you stir its contents. Doing so will minimize the risk of rice sticking to the pan. Most lugaw recipes use homemade stock, but a high-quality commercial broth can offer just as much flavor. Some cooks even prefer to use plain water instead of stock or broth, but doing so will create a much blander taste. If you want to season the lugaw, you should add any desired fish sauce (Patis) and black pepper now.  This step is only optional. You do not need to add either seasoning to the dish. If you aren't sure how much to use, start by adding 1/4 tsp (1.25 ml) pepper and 1/2 tsp (2.5 ml) fish paste. You can add more throughout the process as desired to suit your tastes. Bring the lugaw to a boil, then reduce the heat to low. Cover and cook for 30 to 60 minutes, or until the grains of rice become notably puffy.  The overall texture of the dish should be very thick when finished. Stir the contents of the saucepan frequently during the cooking process. Doing so causes the rice to release more starch, thereby creating a thicker lugaw. If the contents of the...


Clean the ring thoroughly. Use a coffee stir stick to apply silicone sealant inside the ring. Smooth the silicone with the coffee stir stick. Let the silicone cure.

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Soak the ring in a solution of hot water and dishwashing soap. Use a soft toothbrush to brush the metal and any stones set on the ring.  Dry the ring thoroughly before moving on. Avoid using cleaners with bleach, acetone or chlorine, as these can damage a ring’s metal band. Make sure to use clear silicone, like food grade or aquarium grade silicone. You’ll want the bottom part of the ring to have the thickest application. Unless the ring is very loose on your finger, you should use a small amount of silicone. As the silicone will be directly against your skin, you’ll want to try to smooth it out as much as possible. Run the stick along the inside of the ring until the silicone smooths out. You can use a wet paper towel to clean any silicone that gets on the outside of the ring. Depending on the type of silicone you use, this can take anywhere from 24 to 48 hours. Resist the temptation to wear your ring during this time, as it will take longer for the silicone to cure and might dislodge it entirely. If you need to remove the silicone, you simply need to scratch at it with your fingernail.


Clean the scratched area. Rinse the scratched area. Fill in the scratch. Let the wax settle and dry. Buff the scratch.

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Use a soft rag and a small amount of hardwood floor cleaner to clean the scratched area of the floor.  This will remove any small dirt and dust particles, and ensure that you are working with a clean surface. Wipe down the scratched area with a damp rag moistened with water. This will remove the cleanser, further sanitizing the workspace. Allow the damped area to totally dry before moving on. Rub a wax stick over the scratched area to fill in the scratch. If needed, use a plastic tipped putty knife to force the wax down into the scratch. Wood wax can be clear, but they also come in common wood shades like honey, and different shades of brown. Allow the wood wax to dry and harden for at least 10 minutes. Wood wax sticks can be found at home department store, paint stores, or local hardware stores. Leave the wax alone for a day or two before you buff it or add any finishes or sealer to the area. Use a clean, soft cloth to rub back and forth over the scratched area, and buff the wax. Buffing the wax will smooth the scratched area, remove excess wax, and restore shine to the floor.


Clean the seat and its hardware regularly. Tighten nuts with rubber bushings. Add seat stabilizers to loose seats. Replace worn out parts.

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Dirtiness and buildup can contribute to the corrosion and degradation of your toilet seat and its hardware. For this reason, you should clean it regularly with a suitable general purpose bathroom cleaner. Check cleaners before using them on toilet porcelain or the seat itself. In many cases, abrasive cleaners should not be used on toilet seats. Check the labels of cleaners to verify their suitability. Rubber bushings can be bought at your local hardware store or home center. Slide the circular, rubber bushings up the threading side of the bolt with the tapered side of the bushing facing up at the toilet. Then tighten the nut with the tightening tool that came with the bushings.  Many hardware stores will sell this product under a name like "Toilet Seat Tightening/Fastening Kit." Alternatively, you can apply clear silicone to the areas where the seat attaches to the bowl. This will prevent the seat from sliding around. Seat stabilizers can also be purchased at your local hardware store. Fasten these to seats that wiggle back and forth. The stabilizers should touch the inner rim of the toilet bowl. When the stabilizers are in position, fasten them permanently in place with the screws that came with the stabilizers. Over time, usage can wear out parts or weaken them. Thinness, brittleness, and visible discoloration are good indications that plastic needs to be replaced. Cracked plastic should also be replaced immediately. Inspect other parts, like the hinges, the fasteners on the bottom of the seat, and the nut on the threaded end of the bolt. Replacing these before they degrade could save you a lot of trouble.


Clean the soda can with soap and hot water and let it dry.

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Pour out any remaining liquid, and then use a bottle cleaner to scrub the inside of the can with soap and hot water. Place the can with the opening facing down to dry for at least 2-3 hours before starting to make your cookie cutters. If you don’t have a bottle cleaner, you can roll up a paper towel to clean the inside of the can. However, be careful around the opening, since the edges can be sharp.


Clean the tile with degreaser and tile cleaner. Sand your tile with 1800-grit paper until it's no longer smooth. Wipe off the dust with a damp rag. Apply an oil-based high adhesion primer to home surfaces. Wait at least 24 hours for the primer to dry.

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If your tile is brand new, you can just wipe off the surface. Older tile, especially flooring or bathroom tile, will need to be cleaned thoroughly. Start by using a degreaser, then wash the tile with tile cleaner or soap and water. It’s very important that your tile is perfectly clean, so don’t skip this step!  Use bleach or hydrogen peroxide to remove any mold. Vinegar works well for removing soap scum and shower residue. You won’t need to sand unglazed tile, but any ceramic that has already been glazed will need to be sanded to provide a rough surface for the paint to adhere to. Use 1800-grit sandpaper to smooth the tile and remove uneven gloss. Sanding creates a lot of dust, and it will affect the look of your paint. Make sure all of the dust from sanding is gone by wiping the entire surface with a damp cloth. You can also vacuum away any accumulated dust. Oil primers are efficient at preventing stains and holding on to ceramic and/or oil-based paint, but you won’t need to use them for decorative art tiles that won’t be walked on or used. If you’re planning to paint in a high-traffic area, like the shower or the hallway floor, use two coats. Check the primer's label for a precise drying time. If you're working in an area with a lot of moisture, like the bathroom, you may want to wait 48 hours.


Clean the wood with a HEPA vacuum or lambswool duster. Scrub the wood with a dry chemical sponge. Clean with a wood cleaner if the wood has been affected by oily smoke. Scrub with steel wool in the direction of the grain. Use a diluted solution of degreaser and water. Polish the wood if you used a degreaser.

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These will pick up much of the dry soot that you’ll want to get rid of before starting to clean deeper into the wood. HEPA stands for high efficiency particle arrestance. HEPA vacuums will be marked as such on their packaging or in their owner’s manual. Soot and smoke can leave behind dangerous particles in the air, and HEPA vacuums will pick up more particles than regular vacuum cleaners. Wipe the sponge across the soot in straight lines until the surface of the sponge turns black. Turn it over and use another side until all sides are black, then carefully shave off the surface of the sponge using a knife to expose a new, clean layer to clean with. This will ensure that you don’t scrub the soot back into the wood.  Scrub gently. Pressing too hard could embed the soot particles into the wood grain. Make sure to use a dry sponge, which will pick up loose soot without rubbing it into the wood, rather than a sponge meant to be used with water. Run your finger over the surface of the soot. If it smears, the wood has been affected by oily smoke. Closely follow the directions on your wood cleaner and use it to clean the surface of the wood with a cotton rag. You can also use Murphy Oil Soap. 0000 grade steel wool will remove tougher residue. Scrub gently in the same direction of the wood grain in order to preserve the finish of the wood. Determine the direction of the wood grain by looking closely at the small lines in the wood. The direction that they point will be the direction of the grain. If oily soot remains on the wood, dilute a small amount of degreaser in a large bowl or bucket of water and spread it over the surface of the wood. Rinse well with a wet cloth and dry gently with a soft towel. Rub a bit of polish onto an old cloth or paper towel and rub it gently into the wood.


Clean them at least every two weeks. Use tire dressing. Give them ample space in storage.

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To keep your whitewall tires clean and avoid having to give them a heavy duty cleaning, take the time to wash them at least every two weeks. Use water, whitewall tire cleaner and a rag or sponge. If you do this cleaning frequently enough (e.g. every week), a gentle soap should be effective enough to use. If there is persistent dirt or discoloration, which is less likely if tires are regularly cleaned, use a stronger whitewall tire cleaner and scrub pad. After cleaning whitewall tires, use a water-based dressing to give your tires shine and protect them from harmful UV rays. Purchase the dressing and a foam applicator for it in the automotive department of most department stores, or online. Apply the foam to the applicator and wipe it onto your tires evenly until the desired effect is reached. When storing your whitewall tires, give them ample space so that they don't have to lean against each other. This may cause the black rubber of the tires to rub against the white rubber, smudging them. If you do have to lean them against each other, separate the tires with plastic sheeting or store them in individual bags.


Clean trash and other garbage out of your car. Wipe the interior surfaces to remove stains that may produce odors. Remove and clean the floor mats or rugs. Vacuum the car Shampoo the inside of the car if vacuuming didn't remove the smell. Sprinkle baking soda over odorous stains to remove the smell.

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Start with the basics by clearing everything out of the car and removing all trash. There may be an old piece of food or other garbage stinking up your car. Check under the seats and remove all rotting food, trash, and junk items. Check back pockets and remove all trash items. Be careful if you have children as there may be sticky candies, or unidentified blobs of food stuck within the pocket. Don't forget to clean the back or trunk of the car as well. Use a soft cleaning cloth and an all-purpose cleaning spray to wipe down every plastic, wood, glass, and metallic surface inside the car. Look for any spills or stains that could be causing the odor. For example, a child may have spilled pudding on the seat.  For leather seats, use an appropriate leather cleaner. Alternatively, you can ask for a suitable interior car cleaner at your automotive store. If your upholstery is not leather, remove stains by vacuuming or shampooing the surfaces. In most cars, the floor mats (where the driver's and passengers' feet rest) can be removed. Pull these out, and use a few rags and hot, soapy water to clean them. Stains may have accumulated over time, which may be producing the foul smell in your car. Use clean water when you're cleaning off the floor mats. Wipe off all excess water from the mats so no water pools up in the car once you put the mats back in. to clear out any grime worked into the carpet. Vacuum the carpet and the seats to remove excess dirt. Besides dirt, food crumbs or leftover bits of trash may have been worked into the carpet. Vacuuming these out should improve the smell of your car. Run the vacuum nozzle over all seat and floor surfaces. If you're sure that the car's carpet is the problem, you could sprinkle carpet deodorizer over the carpet. Leave it to sit for the time recommended on the package instructions (usually about 5-10 minutes) before vacuuming it up. If vacuuming failed to remove the smell, you'll need to take a more aggressive approach towards cleaning the carpet. Purchase a car shampoo from...


Clean up accidents completely. Fasten your litter box to the cage if your ferret digs a lot. Put water, food, and toys in areas where your ferret is going to the bathroom. Do not scold a ferret.

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Even after your ferret is using its box regularly, it may have an occasional accident outside the box. If an area smells, a ferret is more likely to eliminate there again. To prevent this, clean up accidents completely after they happen.  Treat the stain as quickly as possible. You need to thoroughly deodorize the area or the ferret will be drawn back to this spot and will think it is an appropriate place to eliminate. To prevent reoccurrence, spray something like lemon or apple bitters near the spot. Ferrets dislike these smells and will be discouraged from going in these spots again. Ferrets may dig in their litter box. This can cause the box to slide around the cage, making the ferret more likely to eliminate outside of the cage. If your ferret is pushing their litter box around, drill holes in the litter box and attach it to the side of the cage using wire. Make sure the sharp ends of the wire are outside of the cage so your ferret does not injure itself. If your ferret keeps eliminating outside the cage, start putting its toys and food in these areas. Ferrets are less likely to eliminate near where they eat, sleep, and play. Having food, toys, and bedding in the places where your ferret has accidents will discouraged future accidents. Ferrets, like most animals, do not respond to scolding. If you scold a ferret for going outside its litter box, it's likely to simply get agitated and stressed. This will not encourage litter box training and will only serve to upset your animal.


Clean up around the house. Wear clothes that fit you. Get organized. Install stable railings in your staircases and use them. Install non-slip mats in commonly slippery areas. Make sure your home is well lit.

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Creating an environment with less clutter will help you avoid tripping, bumping into things, or cutting yourself. As with many things in life, creating an environment in which it is easier to reach your goal (to be less clumsy), will make it much easier to achieve success.  Leave your shoes at the door, so they aren't in your way later. Donate, recycle, or throw away old things that you no longer want or need. This will help reduce clutter. This way when you're walking your clothes won't get caught on anything. The length of your pants should fit you perfectly. This way you can't trip over your pants.  Make sure your shoelaces are not too long. This will help prevent you from stepping on them and tripping. Your pants should not be long enough to get caught under your shoes. Proper length pants will give you one less thing on which to trip. Organizing things in your home can help prevent accidents. When you know where everything is, you are less likely to accidentally knock something over or be caught be surprise by something (for example, a knife on the counter that could cut you).  Put things back after you use them. Make sure to zip-tie, or otherwise bind, stray cords so that they do not become tripping hazards. If you already have railings installed in your house, make sure that they can actually support your weight and are securely attached to the wall.  Use the railings when you walk down the stairs. Walk deliberately and use the safety equipment you have. Railings aren't just for trying to catch yourself when you fall, they can help prevent the fall in the first place. Bathrooms, kitchens, and other places that might have slippery floors like tiles can be hazardous. Non-slip maps can help provide you with a safer surface on which to stand and work, such as in the shower or in front of the sink. Non-slip mats are often made of rubber. They are available in many department stores and specialty stores that deal in bathrooms, kitchens, etc. It is much easier to be clumsy when operating in a dimly lit area....


Clean up dog food or bones around your dog's kennel immediately.  several times a week. Clean up any trash or waste in your home or yard. Bring your dog inside during the hottest times of the day.

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Do not leave dog food or bones out, as flies are attracted to open food sources. Set specific meal times for your dog to prevent their living space from becoming infested with flies. veral times a week. If your dog is often bothered by flies in your home, you may have an infestation. Regularly vacuuming your carpet will help you pick up any fly eggs on the ground that may be unseen by the naked eye. After vacuuming your home, empty the vacuum cleaner outside to prevent reinfestation. Because flies thrive in dirty conditions, keeping your dog's living areas well-maintained is important for preventing fly bites. Throw away any garbage, dog waste, or old food as you see it to avoid unpleasant smells, which can attract flies quickly. Flies are most active during the summer months, especially during the day. The hotter the temperature, the more likely your dog is to be infested with flies. Keep your dog indoors during the late morning and afternoon to prevent fly bites.


Clean up fats with talcum powder.

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Fats from things like barbecues and candles can stain stone tile. Talcum powder can be used to remove the stains. Pour a fair amount of talcum powder on the stain and leave it for several days. Repeat the process again if the stain does not lift.


Clean up small spills with a medicine dropper. Contact experts for large spills. Keep pets and people away from mercury spills. Do not attempt to clean up liquid mercury using conventional means. Cut away pieces of carpet that came in contact with mercury.

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If you spill a small amount of mercury (the amount that you might find in an average mercury thermometer), alert others in the house that they should avoid the area until you’ve cleaned it up.  Don a pair of disposable gloves and use a medicine dropper to suck up the liquid mercury.  Place the droplets in a sealed container (for instance, an old medicine bottle).  Place the medicine dropper you used and the container with the liquid mercury in a sealed plastic bag. Contact your waste disposal service to find out how to dispose of the liquid mercury. If you’ve spilled an amount of mercury in excess of what would be found in an average thermometer, leave your home immediately.  Contact your local health department for information about air testing and cleanup. If liquid mercury escapes its appliance, gauge, or other device, keep others away from the spill.  This will reduce their contact with the mercury and prevent it from spreading throughout the house. Vacuuming can vaporize liquid mercury.  This will likely lead to you or someone else in the house inhaling the mercury, increasing your exposure.  Additionally, don’t try to use a sponge or brush when cleaning up liquid mercury. Vacuuming or using a sponge on liquid mercury will only contaminate your sponge or vacuum. If you’ve located liquid mercury in your home’s carpet, cut away the area containing the mercury (including the carpet pad beneath).  Fold the carpet and pad carefully to avoid spilling the liquid mercury beads, then place it in a garbage bag.


Clean up spills immediately to prevent permanent stains. Put down protective rugs and mats. Protect the floor from furniture damage. Avoid walking across the floor in high heeled shoes. Keep nails and claws trimmed on pets.

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When liquid of any kind is allowed to pool on your floor, damage can occur. Try to get to spills as soon as they happen. Use a dampened cloth for sticky spills, but dry the spot immediately afterwards with a microfiber pad.  Never use ammonia or regular household cleaning products to clean up a spill. These will damage the floor’s surface. Try Windex instead. Avoid using water and vinegar to clean with, as well. Mats can drastically reduce the amount of dirt and debris that gets on your floor. Position them inside and outside your home’s exterior doors. Encourage visitors and family members to wipe their feet on them. Place additional mats in other high-traffic areas, such as in front of the kitchen sink and down frequently used hallways. A floor mat should also be placed in any area where water might be splashed, like by the kitchen sink.  Be sure to use floor mats that are made specifically for hardwood floors. Other types of mats, such as rubber-backed and non-ventilated mats, can trap moisture and debris underneath, causing surface damage to the floor. Shake the mats out regularly to prevent debris build-up. The legs of furniture can leave behind significant scuffs and scratches on your floor’s surface. Place stick-on felt protectors under the legs of your furniture and keep them on at all times. These felt protectors get dirty quickly, so replace them often. If you don't, the debris embedded in the felt may scratch your floor.  Never drag a piece of furniture across a hardwood floor. You can also try using thin, cup-shaped plastic protectors to cover the legs of furniture. A strict no-shoes policy isn’t necessary to protect your hardwood floor, but high heeled shoes in particular can leave behind dents, scratches and scuffs. Try to avoid wearing them when you have to walk on the floors. Consider keeping a pair of slippers or socks near the entryway so you can easily remove your heels at the door. Unfortunately, your pet’s claws can easily scratch the surface of your floor. Trim their claws on a regular...


Clean up spills right away. Treat small stains regularly. Keep the area ventilated. Apply grout sealer. Dye it a different color. Know when to replace your grout.

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Letting cranberry juice or orange juice sit on grout for a few hours is a sure way to get a new stain. As soon as something is spilled on your floor, wipe it up with a wet rag, removing every last trace.  If a stain is left behind, pour a bit of hydrogen peroxide over it. Let it sit for a minute before wiping it away with a clean cloth. Dry spills can also stain grout if they are left to be ground into the floor. Sweep up coffee grounds, clumps of dirt, and other solids soon after they are dropped. To avoid having to do a deep cleaning too often, treat small stains as they come. Use the same cleaning solution you would use for a deep cleaning, but employ a spray bottle to treat the small area you want to clean. You could also try an alternative small stain-cleaning methods:  Use a baking soda paste. Mix baking soda with a little water to make a paste, and then rub it into the stained section of grout. Let it sit for a few minutes, then use an old toothbrush to scrub it away. Use white toothpaste. Squirt some toothpaste directly onto the grout in question, then rub it in using your finger. After a few minutes, use an old toothbrush to scrub the area. Wipe it up with a clean wet rag. Use a pencil eraser. For the smallest stains, a pencil eraser does a surprisingly good job. Choose an eraser that is white, rather than stained a different color, or you may end dyeing your grout the color of the eraser. Mold and mildew often affect grout in bathrooms, which tend to stay wet and steamy for hours at a time. Use an exhaust fan after taking a shower or bath, and wipe up wet tile to keep your grout from getting moldy. Once a year, applying a commercial grout sealer can help prevent spills from quickly seeping into the pores in the grout, and it helps with bathroom mold and mildew. Choose a grout sealer from your hardware store and apply it according to the manufacturer's instructions. Sometimes keeping grout white just isn't practical. If you dye your hair, have kids who like to use paints in the kitchen, or just don't...


Clean up the room and lay down a soft cotton sheet. Turn down the lights, and consider using aromatherapy candles. Put on some calming music. Make sure your hands are warm before you touch her feet. Grab some lotion or body oil to ramp up the sensuality.

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Let’s face it—a messy room that’s full of junk just isn’t sensual. Take the time to declutter the room where you intend to give the massage, and take the extra step of laying down a clean cotton sheet for her to relax on during the massage.  Soft cotton sheets will feel good on her skin, and they make cleaning up any spilled lotion or body oil much easier. Dimming the lights creates a more soothing and sensual atmosphere. Adding candles, especially ones that use her favorite scents, can turn the sensuality up another notch.  Make sure there’s enough light to see what you’re doing! Try, for instance, vanilla, cinnamon, rose, or lavender scented candles. Set them up around the room to create mood lighting. While you might think that romantic music is the way to go here, instead go with soothing instrumental music or even nature sounds. You want to help her become as calm and relaxed as possible. There’s a chance that this might help her to drift off to sleep, but rely on your massage skills to keep her awake and interested in you! She definitely won’t find the feel of cold hands on her feet seductive! Take 10-15 seconds to rub your hands together vigorously or blow on them to warm them up before starting the massage. Even better, wrap your hands in a warm towel for 1-2 minutes before starting the massage. Lotions and body oils reduce friction and enhance the sensation of the massage. Choose a lotion or oil intended for massages, and consider scented options. Squeeze a few drops into your hands and rub them together.  Consider warming the oil or lotion beforehand by holding the bottle in your hands for 2 or 3 minutes. Alternatively, buy a plug-in lotion warmer from a beauty supply store. Don’t use the microwave to heat up lotion or oil—you’ll end up with hot spots that can burn!


Clean up your area. Tighten all of the fasteners once you are satisfied with the alignment of the tracks. Check the alignment of the door and that it is secured properly one final time.

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Remember to remove any temporary nails, such as the ones you drove into the jamb at an angle across the first panel. Also make sure all obstacles, particularly ladders, are out of the way so you don't hit them when you try the door for the first time. Tighten the screws starting at the bottom of the door and working your way up. As you go, check the operation of the door by making sure it moves freely in the track. The door should move easily up and down the track once the screws are all tightened. Make sure the tracks are aligned and make adjustments to the position of the track as necessary. Be sure to check that all of the rollers are sitting well in the tracks and that they are moving freely.  Also check that the door will stay in the up position without holding it up.  If you have a problem with this, you may need to adjust the slope of your horizontal track or the garage door spring.


Clean up your diet. Scope out a trail. Get gear. Join a club. Sign up for a race.

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Technically, to run, you could eat whatever the heck you like. However, it's gonna be a lot easier to run and feel good during and after if you're loading up on healthy stuff beforehand. A good way to think about it would be to eat like a caveman -- going as au natural as possible. If it's processed, do your best to avoid it. Fruits and veggies should make up a large portion of your diet, with some lean meat, low-fat dairy, and whole grains thrown in. If you want to see changes in your body, this step is a must-do. Getting started running is a lot about not getting discouraged too soon. If you think it's too difficult or not enjoyable enough, you won't stick with it. If you're hitting the gym, find a gym that's convenient to get to and that has nice equipment. If you're running outside, consider terrain, scenery, and level. Are you running on dirt, gravel, or blacktop? Is it pretty enough to keep you relaxed and in the zone? Is there plenty of flat terrain, or is it uphill or downhill? All you really need to run is a good pair of shoes. If the budget doesn't allow for the fancy, technical gear, don't sweat it. You don't need any. Women should have a decent sports bra, but that's about it. CoolMax or Dri-Fit are two brands of synthetic fabrics that keep the moisture (read: sweat) off your skin if you're interested, but you can run just as well as long as you're comfortable. Odds are your area has a running, triathlon, or marathon club you can join. Being surrounding by like-minded people will only fill you with more gusto -- and it'll keep you on track when you're feeling less than motivated. Need a buddy to run a race with? Problem solved. Don't know where to find one? Try your local running shoe shop. It's probably a smaller network of serious runners than you realize! Soon you'll be on a first name basis. Now that you're a runner, might as well do some good with your new hobby! There are millions of 5 and 10ks out there to support good causes. With two minutes of research, you're bound to find one in your area!


Clean with a dry brush. Mix warm water with laundry detergent. Remove the insoles and laces. Wet a sponge. Wet a sponge with clean water to remove soap. Allow to air dry.

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Before you wash your shoes, you should remove any large chunks of dirt and grime. Use an old toothbrush or dry scrub brush. Rub the dry brush over any problem spots to remove excess dirt and grime. Fill up your sink with water that is warm, but not hot. Then mix in a small amount of laundry detergent. Laces and insoles need to be cleaned separately. Remove them from the shoe and place them to the side. Alternatively, you can use a soft towel or a soft bush. Be sure that the sponge has absorbed sufficient soap and water before squeezing out excess moisture. Use the solution to scrub out problematic stains.  An old toothbrush can be handy for scrubbing around the tongue and in other hard-to-reach spots. Try not to wet parts of the shoe made of leather or foam. You could research specific cleaning instructions for your shoe through the manufacturer. If in doubt, avoid getting moisture on any surface that is already clean. After you have removed stains, dunk a second sponge or cloth in warm water without soap. Rub the shoe to remove all excess soap. Do not place shoes in the drier. Leave them out in room temperature. Allow them to dry naturally.


Clean your French drain regularly. Inspect your French drain yearly. Rent pipe inspection equipment. Get a professional inspection.

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Regular cleaning of your French drain is necessary to prevent a buildup of dirt and debris that could cause a clog. Every week or so, use a garden rake to clear the surface of the drain to remove any debris that could obstruct water flow. In the event of a storm, nearby construction, or another occurrence that may result in excess debris, clear the area as soon as possible to prevent backup. If your drain has louvers, be sure to remove the cover and clean the inside of the drain and each louver slot. While French drains can operate for years without issues, they should be inspected once a year to ensure that there are no blockages present. Choose a time of year when your schedule will accommodate this task and when the weather facilitates it (e.g. during the summer, when you are on vacation and there is no snow or excessive rain). Schedule the inspection before beginning any other projects in the surrounding area (e.g. planting a garden or building a deck) in case you have to conduct repairs. If you have a heavy rain, inspect your drain system to make sure it is still draining fast or if it has built-up. Call several hardware stores or equipment rental locations to compare rental prices for pipe inspection equipment. These small, cable-mounted video cameras coil into the drain and transmit recorded images to a video monitor, revealing obstructions, collapsed pipes, or other issues. Models range in features, quality, and availability, so costs may vary significantly depending on your location and needs. A less expensive model should be adequate for identifying a simple clog or damage. If your own inspection of your French drain is fruitless, or if you want to be certain about the condition of your drain, call a professional drain specialist. Experts can check your drains quickly and effectively, and tell you definitively if there are any problems that could cause leakage, flooding, or damage. Drain specialists can also handle cleaning or repairs if they are revealed to be necessary.


Clean your ball. Store your ball. Use it for basketball.

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After a hard day of basketball, be sure you give your ball a proper wipe down. Cleaning it periodically will prevent grime and dirt from settling into the ball. Use a damp cloth and allow it to dry. This depends on how often you like to play basketball. If you play often, keep your ball well inflated and store indoors at room temperature. If you don’t play too often, keep your ball slightly deflated. This will increase the longevity of the ball. Never leave a ball outside and avoid direct sunlight for too long of a period. A good way to ruin your basketball is by kicking it around like a soccer ball. It is a common misconception that any inflatable ball will work for anything. The construction and design of a basketball is very different from other balls. It was designed for the court, so bring it to the court not to the field.


Clean your battery contacts once a year. Test your lights and replace any bulbs that have blown out. Check and replace fuses Replace your spark plugs Use an OBD-II scanner

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The connection for your battery can sometimes get corroded or covered in grime, making it harder for the electrical current to flow through the car’s system. Use the correct sized wrench or socket and ratchet to loosen the bolt holding the negative (-) cable on the battery, then slide the cable off. Then do the same with the positive (+) cable. Add 1 tablespoon (13.8 g) of baking soda to 1 cup (240 ml) of water, then dip a steel toothbrush in the mixture.  Use the brush and mixture to clean all corrosion and grime off of the battery posts and the metal connections on the cables. Wipe the battery posts clean with a damp rag, then connect the positive cable to the battery again. Reconnect the negative cable last. Ask a friend to stand in front of your car while you turn on your headlight low beams and then high beams. Then test the left and right turn signals. Next, ask your friend to move to the back of the car while you test your brake lights and each turn signal once again.  You can access blown out headlight bulbs from behind the headlight housing inside the engine bay. Tail lights are usually accessed through the inside of the trunk. Unplug the wiring pigtail going into your headlight or taillight, then twist the bulb housing counterclockwise and pull it backward to remove it. Replace the bulb and reinsert it. If you can’t figure out how to replace a bulb that’s gone out, refer to the vehicle’s owner’s manual or an application-specific repair manual for more guidance. as they blow out. If some lights go out in the interior of your car, chances are good that it’s a blown fuse. Locate the 2 fuse boxes in your car. One is usually near your left knee when sitting in the driver’s seat and the other is often found inside the engine bay. Use the diagram on the fuse box lids to find the right fuse for the lights that went out, then remove that fuse and replace it with one rated for the same electrical amperage.  The number of amps a fuse can withstand is written on the fuse itself. Make sure the new fuse has the...


Clean your board after each use. Dry your board correctly. Re-season the board regularly.

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Wooden cutting boards should never be set aside to clean later. This can allow food and germs to soak into the board. Always clean a wooden cutting board right after use. Always hand wash cutting boards. They should never be washed in a dishwasher.  Use a damp cloth and mild dish detergent to wipe down the board. When you're done, use another damp cloth to wipe off the detergent. Some people find dish detergents are harsh on wood. If you're worried about using chemical cleaners, clean your board by sprinkling salt over the board. Then, use a lemon to rub the board clean. When you're done, rinse and dry the board. Do not place a cutting board in a dish rack on its side to dry. Lay it on a flat surface instead. If a cutting board dries on its side, it will bend in one direction. Every few weeks, drip some water onto the board. If the water remains on the surface, the board does not need to be re-seasoned. If the water soaks in, you should add another layer of mineral oil to the board and let it soak in overnight.


Clean your bonding surfaces. Cut and attach vertical strips of carpet tape. Cut and attach horizontal strips of carpet tape. Cut and attach central strips of carpet tape. Place and bond the metal into position.

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Make sure both bonding surfaces are clean by cleaning with a household window cleaner. Clean thoroughly, to avoid poor adhesion. Cut strips of carpet tape about ½” shorter than the vertical height of the metal panel. On the bonding face of the metal, press the strip of tape in place about ¼” in from the edge with the ends of the strip about ¼” from the top and bottom of the metal panel. Cut two strips at a length nearly equal to the space between the two strips you just placed. Press them into place along the top and bottom edges of the metal. Cut and place two strips about 2 or 3 inches (5.1 or 7.6 cm) long somewhere in the center portion of the metal.  Peel the protective film off all the strips you just mounted. Be careful not to get them dirty or they may not stick properly. Carefully place one edge into position along the reference lines you drew when measuring for the metal.  Once the metal is in the proper position, you may bond the entire metal panel to the door. Once the two surfaces are bonded, it is difficult to peel the metal away without damaging it. If you need to remove the metal, heat the metal with a hair dryer to soften the adhesive. Wear gloves when removing sheet metal panels.


Clean your books and storage regularly. Adjust conditions as seasons change. Handle your books carefully.

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At least once per month, go over your books and shelves with a light dusting, using a dry microfiber cloth. Once every 3-6 months, repeat the cleaning instructions identified above, once again checking for insect or mold activity. Evaluate the storage space you have chosen during each new season to make sure peak conditions are kept. In summer, make sure the room is suitably cool, and in winter, make sure the room is heated properly. If humidity is a problem in some seasons, consider placing a dehumidifier near your bookcase. Although you may collect your books purely for show, many collectors revel in touching, smelling, and sharing their books. When you handle your books, do so with care: use gloves, and avoid pulling on the book’s spine or pages. Instead, insert your fingers on either side of the book in question, and gently remove it from its place by exerting pressure on the front and back cover. Turn pages slowly and carefully.


Clean your brows. Hold a pencil at the side of your nose.

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Use water and a facial cleanser to clear make up, dirt, and debris away from your brows. Make sure your brows are thoroughly dry before you begin. The pencil should be in line with the corner of your eye and the center of your nostril. Make sure to hold the pencil in a straight position. Observe where the tip of the pencil lands on your brow. This is where your eyebrow should start.  If you have wide set eyes, you will want to make this gap slightly narrower. If you have close set eyes, you will want to make the gap between the brows wider.  Your eyebrow size may need to be adjusted, depending on your unique facial features. A good rule of thumb is that the gap between your eyebrows should be about the length of your eye.


Clean your chicken coop regularly. Contact your local agricultural program to discuss worming. Limit treats to 5 percent of your chickens' daily diet.

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The ground can quickly become full of bacteria and parasites, which creates a breeding ground for worms. Never let droppings accumulate and always keep your coop clean and free from waste. Place a droppings board underneath roosts at night to catch droppings. Ask to speak with a poultry agent and inquire about the risk of worms in your area. Agents can recommend the best timeline and approach to a worming program. Prepare to provide as much information as possible, including worm egg count, the type of worm(s) infecting your chickens, your location, and the dietary habits of your chickens. Too many treats can throw off your chickens' diet. Their nutritional profile often varies enough that an excessive amount can lead to health problems. You should also never add treats to a commercial ration, as this can also disrupt nutritional balance. Never throw treats onto the ground to avoid contamination.


Clean your cup every time you take it out. Wash the menstrual cup with warm water and mild, unscented soap. Use unscented feminine cleansing cloths as an alternative. Wipe both sides clean with toilet paper as a last resort. Dry your menstrual cup with a clean towel before reinsertion.

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Silicone resists bacteria, but you still need to keep your cup clean. A dirty menstrual cup can cause serious issues like toxic shock syndrome (TSS), so don’t put yourself at risk. Rinse the cup under running water, then apply the unscented soap. Thoroughly rinse the cup again until all of the soap is gone.  It’s important to only use unscented soap, as fragrances can irritate your skin or cause a yeast infection.  Many menstrual cup brands sell a wash formulated specifically for cleansing your menstrual cup between uses. You might opt for this special wash instead of soap. When you’re on the go, it’s helpful to carry a bottle of water to use for washing your menstrual cup. If you’re in a situation where you can’t discreetly wash and reinsert your menstrual cup, feminine wipes are an option. Purchase a pack of unscented cloths and carry it in your bag. If you have a bottle of water with you, rinse your cup with water after you use the wipes. For example, you might not be able to wash your cup in the sink of a public restroom before reinserting it. If this is the case, you could use wipes. If you’re unable to wash the cup, wipe down both sides and put it back in. Wash it as soon as you’re able to do so.  Only do this in a pinch, such as when you’re in a public bathroom. If the bathroom has clean paper towels, you might use a paper towel instead of toilet paper. You can use toilet paper or a paper towel to dry your cup. Wipe both the inside and the outside of your menstrual cup to remove any excess water. Once it’s dry, you can reinsert your cup using the instructions provided with your cup.


Clean your dishwasher once a month. Leave the door slightly ajar between cycles. Empty the dishwasher and run a cleaning cycle.

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Don’t just clean your dishwasher when mold starts to appear; the appearance of mold in your dishwasher isn’t just gross, it can be unhealthy. Regular cleaning will keep mold from building up and causing health problems Moisture can stay stuck in the dishwasher between washes, creating a humid environment. Between that and the food within, your appliance becomes the ideal breeding ground for mold. Leaving the door open a crack will allow air pass through the dishwasher, preventing the growth of mold. Even if there are no dishes, make sure to add detergent to the dishwasher. If your dishwasher has a “sanitize” option, make sure to activate it. This will increase the temperature of the water, giving your appliance a better clean.  You can use a chlorine-based detergent to clean the dishwasher more thoroughly. Make sure you leave the door open slightly after the cleaning cycle is complete.


Clean your ears out with hydrogen peroxide. Apply ear drying drops to your ears. Blow your ear with a hairdryer. Dry your outer ears with a towel after swimming and showering. Avoid using cotton swabs or tissues in your ears.

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Fill half of an ear dropper with hydrogen peroxide. Turn your head so that the affected ear is on top. Drop the hydrogen peroxide into the ear. Once the crackling noise stops (usually within 5 minutes), tilt your head so that your affected ear faces down. Tug on the earlobe to help the ear drain. You can buy these over-the-counter at pharmacies and grocery stores. The solution will usually come with an ear dropper, but they are typically available for purchase at pharmacies if not. Alternatively, you can make your own drying drops with equal parts white vinegar and isopropyl alcohol. Turn the hairdryer onto its lowest heat and fan setting. Set the blow-dryer about 6 inches (15 cm) from your ear. Let the cool air blow into your ear.  The air can help dry up some of the fluid that is caught in the ear. Don’t put the towel inside of your ear. Just wipe off the water on the outside to prevent more fluid from building up in your ears. These can irritate and scratch your ears, increasing your chances of getting an infection. Instead, if you can’t dislodge the water on your own, see a doctor for help.


Clean your enoki mushrooms. Put the dried kelp in a large pan and add 5 cups (1,200 ml) of water. Add the miso paste, sriracha, garlic, oil, maple syrup, and salt. Simmer the mushrooms and 2 cups (470 mL) of cabbage for 10 minutes. Ladle the soup into bowls and top with the chopped green onions.

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Pick out any stems that are slimy or discolored. Rinse them under cold water and pat them dry with a paper towel. Then, cut off the hard or “woody” stems at the bottom. This part of the stem will be darker brown in color than the rest of the cream/white mushroom.  Don’t rinse the mushrooms until you are ready to cook them. When you store enoki mushrooms in the fridge, keep them away from water or other liquids as they will get slimy. Put on the lid of the pan and turn the heat to medium. After 5 minutes, turn the heat to low. Keep heat low (beneath a boil) for 1 hour to soften the kelp for your soup. After the hour has passed, remove the kelp and discard it. Try to not brush off the white powder on the kelp as this is what adds flavor. You’ll need 1⁄4  c (59 mL) of brown miso paste, 1⁄2 US tbsp (7.4 mL) of sriracha hot sauce, 1 chopped clove of garlic, 1 US tbsp (15 mL) of coconut oil, and 1 US tbsp (15 mL) of maple syrup. Stir for 4-5 minutes to dissolve all the ingredients.  If you don’t have maple syrup, you can substitute 1⁄2 US tbsp (7.4 mL) of brown sugar. Sriracha can be substituted with 1⁄2 US tbsp (7.4 mL) of gochujang (Korean red paste). Sriracha generally has a little bit more heat than gochujang, but the gochujang has a deeper and more savory flavor to it. You can use 1 US tbsp (15 mL) of sesame oil instead of coconut oil. Sesame oil has a more distinct smell and flavor and generally gives a more “toasted” flavor, whereas the coconut oil often isn’t discernible in a dish. Add the vegetables and increase the heat to medium-high to get a simmer. This step softens the mushrooms and cabbage while giving all the flavors a chance to incorporate into each other. Cooking the mushrooms and cabbage for too long will eventually cause them to get rubbery, so don’t leave the pot on the stove for too long! Be careful not to splash yourself when you transfer the hot liquid. Add as much or as little green onion as you prefer. Turn off the burner unless you want to keep the soup heated for a while. If you do want...