Cite an entire book. Cite a poem in an anthology. Tailor the guidelines for your book. Include extra information for electronic sources. Format your works cited.

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If you are citing a book-length poem, use citation guidelines provided for print books. Make sure your punctuation and capitalization match the example: Author's last name, Author's first name (Year of publication). Title of work: Subtitle. Location: Publisher. Many times, shorter poems are found within larger collections or anthologies. If this is the case for your poem, use the APA's citation guidelines for articles and chapters within an edited book. Follow this example, making sure to include "In" before the editor's name and "pp." before the page numbers: Author's last name, Author's first name (Year of publication). Title of poem. In Editor's first and last name (Eds.), Title of book (pp. page #). Location: Publisher. All sources are slightly different, so you might have to make slight variations to each of your citations to accommodate them. If you are not sure how to handle a specific piece of information, ask your teacher for advice.  In general, if your source does not provide a specific piece of information, it is okay to omit it from the citation. Note that when citing multiple pages you should notate it with "pp." instead of "p." If you need to cite a poem that you found online, cite it as you would a print source, including all of the information that the website's publisher makes available. In addition you should include information that will help your reader find your digital source.  For a website, include the words "Retrieved from" followed by the full web address at the end of your citation. For an e-book, include the e-book format in square brackets directly after the title of the book (for example, [Kindle DX version]). Then include the words "Available from" followed by the website from which you retrieved the e-book at the end of your citation. Once you have compiled all of the information you need for your citations, you need to make sure that your works cited page is formatted and organized correctly. Remember that the rules for capitalization are different than those that you must...


Cite while you write. Gather information. Organize the list. Format the page.

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APA requires citations inside parentheses in the text of an essay, compiling them in an alphabetical References list at the end of a document. While you're writing an essay, it's important to cite information so that you avoid plagiarism (a form of cheating).  Place a parenthetical citation at the end of every sentence (or group of sentences if you're using the same source for multiple consecutive sentences) containing information you didn't know before doing research. An in-text citation using APA will simply have the author last name (or title if no author) followed by the year it was published. No comma between name and year. For example: (Richards 2005) Richards is the author last name, and 2005 is the year. If you have an author name (or title if no author) but no page number, simply use author last name (or title). This is common when citing websites. APA document formatting is very important. APA papers are divided up into 4 sections: the title page, the abstract, the main body, and the references page. The citations of a research paper using APA appear in the References section, the last portion of an APA document. Write down copyright information as you go for every piece of research you glean from. Write it down for every source you look at with a note to jog your memory--you'll be surprised how many ideas you start to paraphrase, unable to remember where you got that idea. To form APA reference page citations, you will need such information as author name(s), date published, website URL, date you accessed the website, title of work, and so on. The list of references should be alphabetized and set to hanging indent, just like MLA style format.  For example, the format for an APA reference of a scholarly journal article is as follows: Author last name, First initial. (Year published). Article or chapter title. Journal or book title, Issue number, page number range.  The format for an APA book reference looks like: Last name, First name. (Year.) Title of Book: Capital letter also for subtitle....


Cite while you write. Gather information. Use Notes and Bibliography if instructed. Use Author Date if instructed.

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CMOS or Chicago utilizes two different of reference styles: Notes and Bibliography, and Author Date. Your in-text citation depends on which style of citation you’re using.  For Notes and Bibliography, you will use a superscript at the instance of each quote in the text with a corresponding footnote at the end of the page. All footnotes are compiled into endnotes at the end of the work, on the bibliography page.  For Author Date, you will use parenthetical in-text citations that include author last name and year published, using no punctuation between name and year. The full version of each parenthetical citation is listed alphabetically on the references page. For example: (Simon 2011) Simon is the author last name, and 2011 is the year. You will need a citation directly after every sentence (or group of sentences if you're using the same source for multiple consecutive sentences) containing information you didn't think of yourself. These include: paraphrases, facts, statistics, quotes, and examples. As you do research for your essay, take note of all bibliographic information that you see. This means title, author, publication, year, volume and issue number, location of publication, website, even the date you access the material if it’s online.  If using a book, write down all pertinent information found on the copyright page, including the name of the publisher and the city and year of publication. For other sources, look for this information near the title of the piece you’re looking at. Publication date is often at the bottom of webpages. The Notes and Bibliography (NB) method is preferred by scholars in the humanities (literature, history, arts). NB is conducive to recording a wide range of sources in detail, which the Author Date system doesn't allow for.  Title your references page “Bibliography” centered at the top of the page. Leave 2 blank lines between this title and the first entry, and one blank line between entries. Notes and Bibliography style uses footnotes for page endings and endnotes for...


Cite within a footnote or endnote beginning the movie title. Write "streaming" if you watched it online. List the corresponding bibliographical entry similarly.

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Italicize the movie title and follow it with a comma, a space, the phrase "directed by [director's name]," and then open a parenthesis. Within the parenthesis, write the film's release year followed by a semicolon, the name of the city of its studio or distributor. Follow this with a colon and the name of the studio/distributor. Follow this with a comma and the video release year, and close with a period.  Close the parenthesis, add a comma, and write "DVD" "VHS" or "Film" if it has not been released. If the film has not been released to DVD or video, omit the video release year. You might write "1. Fake Movie, directed by Linda Bonito (2002; Los Angeles, CA: Paramount, 2004), VHS." Instead of finishing your citation with "DVD" "VHS" or "Film, write "Streaming." Write this as a standalone sentence. You do not have to list the source website. Begin with the italicized movie title as a standalone sentence. Follow this with the sentence "Directed by [director's name]." Follow this with the date of the film's release, and a period. Next, write the studio location, a colon, the studio name, a comma, and the video release date. Follow this with the medium, and a period. For example, write "Fake Movie. Directed by Linda Bonito. 2002. Los Angeles, CA: Paramount, 2004. VHS."


Cite your source whenever you make a quote or reference. Write the author’s last name and page number in parentheses. List both last names if the book has 2 authors. Add a short title if you’ve cited multiple sources by 1 author. Include both in-text citations and works cited entries.

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Note the source in parentheses right after a direct quotation, paraphrased text, or reference to another author’s ideas. This quick citation gives the reader enough information to find the source's full entry on your works cited page. Place the parenthetical citation immediately after the quote or reference, but before the sentence’s period. Include the author’s name and page number like this: (Smith 41).  Alternatively, you can mention the author’s name in your text, then just write the page number in parentheses. For example: “Smith argues that the painting is the artist’s most successful abstract work (52).” If you’ve cited sources by multiple authors with the same last name, include their first initials in your in-text citations, like this: (A. Smith 24). Use a hyphen if you’re citing a page range: (Smith 25-26). Write “and” in between the last names, then specify the page number: (Doe and Smith 98). You can also mention the authors in your text, then just write the page number in parentheses. For a book with 3 or more authors, write the first author’s last name, include a comma, and add “et al.” The in-text citation would look like this: (Smith, et al. 61). To specify the exact work you’re citing, write the author’s last name, a comma, the first few words of the source’s title, and the page number. If, for instance, your works cited page includes multiple books by Fyodor Dostoevsky, an in-text citation would be: (Dostoevsky, The Brothers Karamazov, 232). If you’ve cited multiple works by the same author and don’t include titles in your in-text citations, your reader won’t know which source you’re referencing. Since parenthetical citations and works cited entries work together, you need to include both when you cite your sources. While an in-text citation is usually just a quick mention of an author and page number, a works cited entry lists a source's author, title, publisher, and date of publication. The in-text citation gives your reader enough information to look up the source’s full entry on your...


Claim your personal property. Apportion out the household goods. Separate the furniture and decor. Assign the vehicles. Consider the sentimental items. Keep a running inventory.

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Start with the easy pieces such as clothing and personal accessories. There should be no argument about these items. If you disagree at this juncture, you may need the help of a lawyer or mediator to continue. This category can be divided evenly, as in each side takes a certain number of place settings of china, or traded off. For example, one party may want the small appliances in the kitchen and the other wants sporting equipment. The key is to be reasonable and weigh the monetary value of the items versus the stress of a disagreement. The marital residence may include a mixture of separate and jointly acquired pieces. Even if both parties used an item, equity says that heirlooms should revert to the original owner as separate property. However, as long as it is fair and reasonable, you and your spouse can divide the furniture as works best for you. Children's furniture should stay with the spouse who has primary residential custody. Depending on how they were purchased and titled, vehicles may be either marital or separate property. Let equity and fairness dictate your decision. For example, if you have two cars, even if they are both titled jointly, know that the court will award one to each party. Usually, each party will keep the vehicle they drive most often. Each should expect to keep any loan debt associated with the vehicle and assume the payments. These should be divided fairly and evenly. Each party is entitled to a share of family photos, mementos, souvenirs, and collectibles. Make copies of photos and documents for each party as needed. As you and your spouse decide on division of your personal property, you should keep a neatly written or typed list and each party initial it as you go. This can help deter arguments later. This inventory can be attached to the settlement agreement if necessary. It is also proof to the court that the property division was mutual and handled fairly.


Clamp the cleaned area. Prepare the needle. Pierce from the bottom up. Insert the belly button ring. Clean your hands and the piercing.

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Now you are ready to begin! Take the piercing clamp and use it to clamp the skin of the navel and pull it out from the body slightly.  The entrance point you marked with the body ink should be centered in the bottom half of the clamp, while the exit point should be centered on the top half. Make sure to hold the clamp with your weaker hand, as you want the stronger, steadier one holding the needle. Take the sterilized, 14-gauge piercing needle. This needle has a hollow center, which will allow you to easily insert the belly button ring once you have pushed the needle through. Align the sharp end of the needle with the mark on the underside of the clamp. Take a deep breath, then with one fluid movement push the needle through the skin, making sure that the needle exits through the mark at the top of the clamp.  Never pierce from the top down. You need to be able to see where your needle is going and you can't do this if you're piercing downwards. The best way to pierce is while standing up, as this will give you the most mobility and allow you to see what you're doing. However, if you're concerned about fainting, pierce while lying down (not sitting!). Don't be concerned if the piercing bleeds a little -- this is totally normal. Just wipe away the blood with a clean q-tip dipped in saline solution. Place the end of the jewelry without the ball into the hollow needle (it should be virtually flush or slightly smaller than the needle) and push the needle out with the jewelry. DO NOT pull the needle out. You want to keep the contact between the needle and your navel ring for a smooth transition. The needle will fall off the end of the jewelry as it exits the skin so be prepared to catch it.  Refrain from pulling the needle out to soon, before the jewelry is fully through! Take the loose ball and screw it tightly onto the top of the belly button ring. Tah-dah! Your belly button is pierced! As soon as you've finished, wash your hands with antibacterial hand soap. Then take a cotton ball soaked in a saline solution...


Clamp the new master cylinder to a workbench with a vise. Install the reservoir and fill it and the master cylinder with brake fluid. Push in the piston, cover the ports for the brake lines, then release the piston. Add more fluid, push the piston in again, then release it. Repeat the process until fluid leaks out of each port.

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Find a suitable workbench and secure the master cylinder to it. Put rags beneath the master cylinder to catch brake fluid and prevent it from damaging your work surface. If the master cylinder came with a new reservoir already attached, that’s great. If not, install either a new or old reservoir to it. Then, fill both the reservoir and the master cylinder with brake fluid. It’s crucial that the master cylinder stays filled with brake fluid during this process or you’ll have to start over. Depress the piston on the master cylinder, use the fingers on your other hand to cover all of the brake line ports, then let the piston go. Ensure your fingers are covering the ports completely or air will get sucked into them when you release the piston. Keep your fingers over the brake line ports and use your other hand to put more brake fluid in the master cylinder or reservoir if it’s low. Depress the piston again and allow a little fluid to come out of the brake line ports. Then, seal the ports and release the piston. Remember to keep your fingers firmly over the ports when you release the piston so air doesn’t get into the master cylinder. If necessary, keep adding fluid to the reservoir. Once brake fluid comes out of each port when you depress the piston, the master cylinder is ready for installation. Put the cap on the reservoir when you’re done.


Clamp the steel to your work surface if it’s lightweight. Mark the spot you want to drill with a pencil. Make a divot in the steel with a hammer and center punch.

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Use plastic clamps or metal C-clamps. Tighten the clamp or vice to your workbench so the metal is secure and will not move while you try to drill. If the clamp is loose, the metal could spin while you drill it and cause you harm.  If you’re working with a heavier piece of steel, you do not have to clamp it down. If you’re drilling through a painted surface, put stir sticks or shims between the clamp and your piece of steel so the clamps don’t dent or scratch the metal. Measure out where you want to place the hole in the steel. Take the diameter of the drill bit into consideration when you place your hole. Make a dot on the steel with a pencil to mark where the location of the hole’s center. Use a permanent marker if pencil doesn’t show up on the steel. Place the tip of the center punch on the mark you’ve drawn on the steel. Use a hammer to tap the punch slightly to make a small dent. This helps keep your drill in the right spot rather than it moving around while you try to make the hole. Use a nail if you don’t have a center punch.


Clap once. Pick up the cup. Move the cup to the right and set it down.

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Clap above the cup again. Make sure you are still about six inches above the cup. However, this time, just clap once. Grasp the bottom of the cup with your right hand. Pick the cup up to hover about two to three inches above the table. Try to make an audible sound when grasping the cup. Move the cup about three inches to the right. Set the cup down, making another audible noise. The cup should still be rim down.


Clarify expectations of the promise. Write it down. Be careful about reacting too soon. Look for reasons the promise was delayed.

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If you’ve been promised something from your boss, whether it’s raise or a promotion, it likely has strings attached. Get clarification on what they need from you (higher productivity, more work hours, attending more trainings) in order to get that promotion or raise. Clarify with your boss when they expect to be able to fulfill the promise. Keep in mind it is best to clarify expectations in-person at the time the promise is made. You can summarize your understanding of the promise and get them to do the same until your on the same page. Writing alerts the boss to fact that you expect the promise to be met. Make notes as you meet with your boss in-person and send them a summary of your meeting after you leave. You can send an e-mail saying thank you for the discussion, summarizing the promise, and confirming that your understanding of expectations is accurate. If the promise has not been delivered according to your expectations, be careful before you react. Make sure your reaction is justified by evaluating if you're being impatient. Take a look at your calendar to determine if a reasonable amount of time has passed from when your boss made the promise.  Look back over what you wrote down about the promise and ensure you've fulfilled every requirement your boss asked you to before confronting your boss. Don't avoid reacting and confronting forever! If you're the type of person who always lets things slide or hopes for the best, your boss could take advantage of you by never delivering the promise. If you know you've fulfilled your end of the promise, look for other reasons for the delay. There could be a valid reason outside your control, or even your boss' control, that has left the promise undelivered. Look through your company manual, observe day-to-day practices, or consult with Human Resources for information you might not have received since the promise was first made. Some questions you might ask include:  Has your company been restructured, downsized, or bought out? Has your boss become ill or taken a...


Clarify the essential degree criteria at your institution. Choose a major in a timely fashion. Manage your time Clear away any graduation obstacles from your transcript.

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Generally speaking, a 4-year bachelor’s degree requires 120 credits of coursework (following the semester system in the U.S.), or about 40 individual courses. Often, around 30-36 of these credits (10-12 courses) are requirements based on your chosen major.  There may also be a list of “core courses” that every student is required to take, and you’ll probably need to keep up a minimum grade point average (GPA)—a 2.0 or “C,” for example—to earn your degree.  Talk to your academic advisor to make sure you’re on track with your course selections. Ask them about any university rules that may impact graduation as well (such as adhering to the code of conduct). You don’t need to have already decided on a major when you start a bachelor’s program, and it’s OK to switch majors, especially early in the process. But, by around halfway through the program, it is usually required that you select a major.  You might, for instance, have to declare a major by the time you’ve completed 72 credits. Keep in mind that declaring a major helps set you up for your career, but doesn’t fully determine it. There are history majors that go to medical school, and chemistry majors that go to law school. But choosing a major related to your career goals is usually best. so you can keep up your grades. Finding and getting into a bachelor’s degree program is only the beginning. The real work involves finding the time and giving the effort needed to excel in your coursework. Remember that this is a pricey investment you’re making, and give it your best effort!  Allow yourself time for a social life and some personal time, but also create a weekly schedule for coursework and studying. If you’re struggling to keep up, talk to your professors or academic advisor for guidance. See if there are tutoring programs available. If necessary, move from a full-time to a part-time school schedule. At the last minute, you might find that long-forgotten things like an “I” (incomplete) grade in a course or some unpaid fines are blocking you from graduating....


Clarify your concerns. Decide if your concerns are fair. Do your research. Review the problem with your spouse or a friend.

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When dealing with a neighbour’s unsightly property, it is important to put things into perspective before having any conversations or making any decisions. Always keep in mind the importance of maintaining positive relationships with your neighbours, when it is within your control. While you can certainly address problems, you do not want to do anything that would unnecessarily create a hostile environment or further diminish the enjoyment of your property. Think about whether or not this is a recent problem that may be soon resolved or if this has been a long-standing issue. The situation may be the result of a health problem that your neighbour is experiencing and they may be unable to do anything about it at this time. This is particularly important when you have elderly neighbours with limited mobility. Not everyone has the same standards for cleanliness or the same design aesthetic. What may be unsightly to you may be perfectly acceptable to others. Carefully consider whether or not your concerns are truly warranted and weigh the risks and benefits of addressing the issue. You may decide that your neighbour’s property is good enough for you to let the situation go without pursing it any further in order to keep the peace. Get clarity on the actual issues and gain an understanding of ordinances and zoning codes so that you can speak intelligently about the problem. Perhaps your neighbour’s property is creating a safety hazard or a sanitation violation. A quick Google search will get you started  It may be worth your time to research affordable services that will help your neighbour with cleaning up their property. While you should not be expected to pay for the services, your due diligence in providing a useful resource may be well received. Sometimes talking through the situation with someone else will help you to decide whether or not you want to move forward with a course of action. It could be beneficial to have a calm conversation with a reasonable person to make sure that you are not overreacting....


Clarify your goals. Set up an exercise plan. Review proper form. Drink enough fluids and eat right for strength training.

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Wanting to build strength will require you to start or change a workout routine.  Clarifying exactly what you want to strengthen and why can help you design a more concrete and specific exercise plan.   If you're a beginner and haven't exercised before or are looking to do strength training for the first time, setting up goals will be helpful for you. Consider why you want to build strength.  Do you just want to get in better shape overall?  Do you want to have significant strength gains?  Are you looking to build more lean muscle mass?  Or are you just looking to tone and tighten up a bit? Once you've decided what you want, write out your goals. Try to be specific and realistic with your goals so you're more likely to see them through. Make sure you are setting a time frame in which to accomplish your goal, as well as a way to measure your progress and know when you've successfully completed it.  An example of a well-thought-out goal would be: "I want to build upper body strength over the next three months in order to tone my arms and gain some muscle mass. I want the circumference of my biceps to go down by 1/2 inch." Once you have your goals written out, you'll be able to write up a detailed exercise plan.  This will help you stay on track with your goals.  An exercise plan can be as detailed or as vague as you'd like it.  You may want to include what types of exercises you'll be doing, how often you'll exercise, what days of the week and where you plan on exercising. Free weights are a great way to begin. Start with a weight you can manage. This will help build all the stabilizing structures your body will need to progress eventually to heavier weight. There is some disagreement as to whether or not machines or free weights are best for beginners. Machines may make it easier for you to perform the movements, but on the other hand, the inflexibility of the machines means they are good for some body types, but not others. Try out both and figure out what is best for you. You may also want to consider...


Classification: Building elements: Advantages: Disadvantages:

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Masonry Noncombustible construction is ISO Class 4.  ISO Class 4 encompasses IBC Type Type IIA (protected). Masonry Noncombustible buildings are buildings with exterior walls of masonry material and with noncombustible or slow burning floors and roofs.  buildings with exterior walls of masonry — not less than four inches thick, or buildings with exterior walls of fire-resistive construction — with a rating of not less than one hour, and noncombustible or slow-burning floors and roofs — regardless of the type of insulation on the roof surface Uses floors and roof supported by superior exterior bearing members that provide for stability and are less likely to collapse during a fire Uses materials that don’t readily burn Uses unprotected steel for interior members of floors and roof, and steel loses strength and becomes less stable and more damageable at high temperatures  Uses slow-burning materials that do burn — adding fuel to a fire


Clean Freeze the mussels in a freezer-safe bag or container. Use the mussels within 3 months after freezing. Cook frozen mussels within 2 days after thawing them.

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and debeard the mussels before freezing them. Place the mussels in a bowl of cool water and scrub them with a wire brush to remove grit and barnacles, then use scissors to snip off the “beards” (tough fibers protruding from the shell).  As you are cleaning the mussels, check for any that appear to be dead or damaged and discard them. Cleaning and debearding your mussels will likely kill them, so don't do this until you are ready to put the mussels in the freezer. Select a heavy-duty freezer bag or other freezer-friendly container and place the mussels inside however you like. You don't need to worry about spreading them out or arranging them neatly. Squeeze as much air as you can out of the bag or container and put it in your freezer. Mark the date on your bag or container with a permanent marker so that you know how long the mussels have been frozen before you use them. If you maintain your frozen mussels at 0 °F (−18 °C), they should stay fresh and safe to eat for up to 3 months. After that, the quality and flavor of the mussels will begin to decline, but they should still be safe to eat if you store them properly and keep them at a constant temperature. Mussels that have been frozen for more than a few months may become mushy when cooked. Once you're ready to eat the mussels, you can thaw them in the refrigerator overnight. Another option is to place them in a bowl of cold water for about 1 hour. After thawing, you can safely keep the mussels in your refrigerator for up to 2 days before cooking and eating them. Don't refreeze your mussels after thawing them. This will significantly reduce their quality and may create a risk of bacterial contamination.


Clean Use proper bedding in your guinea pig’s cage. Keep your guinea pig’s cage well ventilated. Do not overcrowd your guinea pig’s cage. Do not house rabbits and guinea pigs together. Add vitamin C to your guinea pig’s diet.

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your guinea pig’s cage regularly. Once your guinea pig has been treated for a respiratory problem, you won’t want him to get another one. Keeping his cage clean is one of the best ways to prevent a future respiratory problem. Clean his cage twice a week.  To give your guinea pig’s cage a thorough cleaning, remove all cage accessories and discard the bedding. Wash the cage with hot, soapy water. Rinse the cage and let it dry completely. Each day, remove leftover food, feces, and dirty bedding. Proper bedding can also prevent respiratory infections in guinea pigs. Dust-free bedding will not irritate your guinea pig’s nose. Examples of dust-free beddings are CareFRESH® and fleece.   Do not use cedar or pine shavings. These shavings contain oils that can be very irritating to a guinea pig’s respiratory tract.  Replace the bedding whenever it becomes soiled or wet. Damp bedding can become moldy and increase your guinea pig's chances of getting sick. Adequate air circulation is important in preventing respiratory problems in guinea pigs. A wire cage would provide more ventilation than a solid glass cage. Make sure the cage is not in the direct path of a vent or draft — a constant draft of cool air could make your guinea pig sick. If you have multiple guinea pigs, they should be in a cage large enough to house all of them comfortably. If the cage is too small, your guinea pigs could develop respiratory infections from the stress of overcrowding. The stress would weaken their immune systems and make them susceptible to infection. If you have 2 guinea pigs, their cage should be at least 30 inches x 50 inches (76 cm x 127 cm). Rabbits can harbor Bordatella  in their bodies and pass it on to guinea pigs. In addition, a rabbit can bully a guinea pig, causing the guinea pig stress if it cannot find a safe place to get away. To prevent a respiratory infection, house your rabbits and guinea pigs in different cages. The stress from bullying could cause a respiratory problem by weakening your guinea pig’s immune system....


Clean Wet the surface of the marble with a spray bottle. Attach a 1000-grit sanding disc to a power sander. Turn on the sander and sand around and over the scratch. Keep spraying the marble with water as you sand. Rinse the marble with clean water.

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and dry the marble surface. Dip a soft cloth in a sudsy mixture of mild dish soap and water, then wring out the cloth to remove excess water. Wipe down the entire area where the scratch is located, ensuring there are no dust, dirt, crumbs, or anything else left on the marble. Then, use a second cloth dampened with just water to wipe away any soapy residue, and dry the marble with a third, dry cloth.  If there are any dirt or crumbs on the surface of the marble, you'll grind it in when you sand it, and you'll end up scratching the marble even worse. Even though you'll wet the marble before you sand it, drying it first will ensure there's no soap or dirt residue left behind to scratch the marble. Fill a clean spray bottle with plain water, and spray a light coating of water over the marble. By wetting the marble before you sand, you’ll give the dust something to stick to, so it will form a paste rather than flying into the air where you could inhale it.  The water will make the marble look darker, but it shouldn’t leave permanent marks unless you leave pools of water standing for a few hours. If you do opt to dry-sand the marble, wear protective eye wear and a dust mask with a respirator so you don't breathe in particles of stone dust. The sandpaper should fit easily onto the sander, but make sure the fit is secure. If the sandpaper is folded up on the edges, you could scratch the marble. You can buy sanding discs wherever home improvement supplies are sold.  It’s possible to do this job by hand if the scratch is very small and you don’t want to use a power tool. Just sand lightly in a circular motion, using 1000-grit sandpaper. If you don’t have a power sander, purchase a pad that fits into the hole on your drill, then attach the sandpaper to the pad. Deeper scratches might require starting with a coarser-grit sandpaper and working up to 1000-grit. However, if that’s the case, it’s usually a good idea to get a professional opinion, rather than risking damage to your marble surface. Place the surface of the...


Clean after every use. Clean with water and mild soap. Wipe the pump with a damp cloth. Sprinkle baking soda to reduce odor.

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It is ideal to clean your air mattress after every use. If that isn't possible, it is good to clean it once a month. At the very least, you should clean it once a season, depending on how often you use it. Clean the air mattress immediately if you see any mold or mildew build-up. Pour a few drops of mild soap into a bowl of water. Dampen a clean cloth with the water and soap. Gently scrub every area of the mattress with the cloth, paying special attention to stains. Allow the mattress to air dry. Use a mild detergent and damp cloth on the pump for the air mattress. Wipe it down and then allow it to air dry. Keep the pump away from dust by storing it in a box or container. Sprinkle baking soda onto the mattress. You should lightly cover the air mattress, but it is not necessary to use a lot of baking soda. Allow the baking soda to sit for a few minutes and then vacuum it up.


Clean and bandage skin wounds. Follow instructions carefully when using vaginal contraceptives. Bathe or shower daily while menstruating. Wash your hands well before and after inserting a tampon.

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If a cut, burn, or other skin wound gets infected, you could develop TSS. Clean the wound and carefully apply a clean bandage that covers the entire wound. Change the bandage at least once a day. Clean the wound gently every time you change the bandage. Inspect the wound for signs of infection, including swelling and redness. Call your doctor immediately if you develop a fever. Vaginal contraceptives, such as the vaginal sponge, can put you at risk of developing TSS. While you can insert a sponge up to 24 hours before you have sex, try to leave it in as short a time as possible to prevent bacteria growth that can lead to TSS.  Leave the sponge in place for at least 6 hours after sex, but then remove it as soon as possible after that. Never leave it in for more than 24 hours after sex. Throw away vaginal sponges after using them. They are not safe for reuse, even if cleaned. Hygiene is particularly important while you're menstruating, especially if you're using tampons. Even if you feel sluggish or have cramps, try to at least take a brief shower and clean your thighs and vulva. While your vagina is "self-cleaning," the outside of your vagina and your inner thighs are not. Clean gently with warm water and an unscented soap or bath wash each day. Dirty hands are the most common source of bacteria. Wash your hands thoroughly before and after inserting a tampon. Do not unwrap the tampon until after you've washed your hands.  Even after washing your hands, only touch as much of the tampon as is necessary to insert it. You should also wash your hands in between removing an old tampon and inserting a new one.


Clean and change the bedding in the litter box frequently. Get your rabbit neutered. Get your rabbit vaccinated. Do not bathe your rabbit.

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Rabbit droppings are very dry and round, so they aren't hard to clean up. Try to put a little bit of hay into the litter box, because rabbits like to eat while they use the bathroom.  This encourages them to keep going to the litter box. Don't wait too long to clean the cage. It will get disgusting, smelly, and is not good for your rabbit's health. Neutered rabbits make better pets as they are less territorial and less prone to aggression. Rabbits can be desexed from around 12 weeks of age. If you have more than one rabbit (of either sex), then this young age is strongly advised or you may have a rabbit population explosion on your hands. From 12 weeks of age rabbit's can be vaccinated against myxomatosis and viral hemorrhagic diarrhea. Both diseases are fatal to rabbits. One annual injection is all it takes to keep the rabbit protected. Also speak to your vet about a course of fenbendazole against a common rabbit parasite called Encephalitozoon Cuniculi. A high percentage of rabbits carry this parasite, which can cause neurological problems, kidney failure, or blindness in later life. A single course once a year is advisable to keep your pet safe. There is no need to give a rabbit a bath as they clean themselves frequently and the oil on their bodies is natural, not harmful. Water can get in their ears and their ears can get infected. Also, the stress of a bath can be very bad for your rabbit's health.  Rabbits are very clean animals and should never NEED a bath. If your rabbit gets a messy bottom, this is often the result of a problem.  Watery poop is fatal to rabbits. If your rabbit has watery poop, you must seek emergency medical treatment immediately. Clumpy poo on the bunny's bottom may be the sign of too rich a diet, or a rabbit who has become too chunky to properly clean itself. In this case, it is fine (and important) to give a bunny 'butt bath'. This should be done very gently with just a few inches of lukewarm water. Set the bunny's bottom (only!) in the water and use your hand to gently loosen and...


Clean and condition your hair regularly. Brush your hair to eliminate tangles. Avoid excessive heat. Style hair with products made from natural ingredients.

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Wash your hair thoroughly every time you bathe, or every other time, if you have especially dry or damaged hair. Shampoo first and rinse completely, then apply conditioner and allow it to sit for a few minutes. Work the lather into your scalp to wash away dirt and oil, and condition the shaft down to the tips. Use hair products that contain healthy vitamins, proteins and oils so that your hair will stay strong and healthy.  Washing your hair too much can also damage it. Your hair needs a light coating of natural oils, so consider only shampooing every other day (or even every two days for those with curly, frizzy hair) and use a little conditioner on the ends in the meantime.  Cleansing conditioners and natural shampoos that make use of essential oils can also get your hair clean without drying it out. Invest in a good soft-bristled brush or wide-toothed comb and use it often. Combing and brushing rids hair of pesky knots and tangles, which can cause damage if left untreated. If you want the kind of smooth, flowing, silky hair you see on your favorite celebrities, you should make frequent brushing a hair care priority.  Brush your hair before you shower to prevent it from being poofy once it dries. Choose a brush that works best for your hair type and the style you’re trying to achieve. Too much straightening, curling and blow drying robs your hair of its natural moisture and leads to breakage. Use these styling techniques sparingly, and make sure to protect your hair with heat-treatment products when you do. If you usually blow dry your hair, start using a medium or low heat setting instead of turning it on full blast. It will take longer, but you’ll have luxurious hair to show for it.  Use quick, smooth strokes when straightening, and low heat when curling, to minimize the damage that the heat does to your hair. Pulling your hair back too tight, wearing a hat all day or spending a lot of time in the sun can also be bad for your hair. Just like heat, the chemical agents in certain hair products can strip and...


Clean and dry the grain bins you plan on using. Apply an insecticide 5 days before storage to prevent infestation. Keep the temperature of the storage area below 70 °F (21 °C).

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Vacuum any old grains and dirt at the bottom and in the corners of the grain bin.  Use dish soap to wash the sides and bottom of the grain bin you’re using and dry it thoroughly.  Grain bins can range from large silo-like structures to drum barrels. Use food-grade drum liner bags if you don’t want to disinfect the grain bin. Large silos can be cleaned using a broom and a large vacuum on the floor. You can also hire a professional service to clean your silos for you. Use a natural insecticide so the barley isn’t contaminated with chemicals. Coat each wall of the grain bin with the insecticide to get the maximum coverage.  Use products like neem oil or an EcoSmart spray solution. You can make your own insecticide with chili powder, dish soap, or garlic. Inspect the barley every 2 or 3 weeks for infestation, especially if the weather is warm. Spray all of the interior and exterior walls of a silo-sized grain bin using a large sprayer. If temperatures are higher, there is more chance for mold and infestation to occur on your grains. Keep the bins in a warm, dry area with consistent temperatures to keep the barley in the best conditions.  Barley can last for a few years if it is stored properly. Keep an aeration fan running in a large silo to keep temperatures down.


Clean and dry your vegetables. Cut vegetables into uniform slices. Place vegetables evenly on the racks, without overlapping. Dehydrate garlic and onions separately.

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Vegetable dehydration is common with gardeners who like to preserve the excesses of their harvest for the winter months. Use a mandoline or a meat slicer to achieve this easily. It is important to have uniform slices so that they take the same amount of time to dry.  Many vegetables need to be pre-processed in order to avoid a change of color. Steam broccoli, eggplant and carrots for a short time. Blanche summer squash, cauliflower, potatoes, sweet potatoes or carrots until they are soft but still crisp. To blanche means to plunge something in boiling water for a few seconds or minutes, then put them on ice. This locks in enzymes and starches so it will contain the same enzymes and be nutritious when it is rehydrated. You do not need to pre-process zucchini. Spray lemon juice on carrots to keep the color. Dehydrate using temperatures between 54 and 63 degrees Celsius (130 and 145 degrees Fahrenheit). To create roasted flavors in your peppers, cut them in half, broil them until they start to blister, cool and then dehydrate them skin side down. Other vegetables will absorb the flavor if you dry them together.


Clean and moisturize your face. Use a primer. Pick a tinted concealer. Use a foundation. Don't use blush.

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Before you start with makeup, make sure to wash your face first with a gentle cleanser. In addition, use a moisturizer to help keep your skin hydrated. It's important to be gentle with your skin, as being rough can make your skin redder or cause rosacea flareups if you have that condition. Try blotting your skin after you wash it instead of rubbing it, for instance, and try to be gentle when washing your face. Primer acts as a go-between. It protects your skin from the make up, so if your cheeks are rosy from irritation, it can help lessen the effect. A green primer works best to help cover redness. Always test any product you plan to use on your face on another area of skin, such as the back of your neck, to see if it will irritate it. Try a concealer with a hint of yellow in it to help hide redness if it's only lightly red. If you need a bit more help or you skin is flaky, opt for a green-tinted moisturizer. If you have a condition such as rosacea, it's important to choose products that are oil-free.  When adding powdered concealer, a brush is best. It lets you add just as much as you need. Because bacteria can irritate conditions like rosacea, choose brushes that are antibacterial.  If you use a stick concealer, use it to make small dots where you need it. Gently rub it over the areas to create a even layer. The foundation helps even out your face and the concealer. Apply it over your whole face for an even skin tone.  Consider a foundation with mineral powder, as it is less likely to irritate your skin.  Start by adding a bit of powder to the lid. Use your brush to pick it up, moving it around until you've picked up all the powder. To apply it, use circular motions, gradually covering your whole face. If you already have redness, you don't need to create more rosiness. Use a base that will let the natural rosiness shine through on your cheeks without looking red or irritated.


Clean and shave the leg. Do not apply skin traction to damaged skin. Administer painkillers if prescribed. Explain the procedure.

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Use soap and water to clean the limb.  Make sure to clean the entire limb, not just the site of the injury. Shave the patient’s skin wherever traction straps will be applied. A single blade razor should be sufficient. Wipe away any leftover soap or shaving cream with a wet cloth and then pat dry with a clean towel. Make sure that the limb is totally dry. Ask the patient if they are allergic to adhesive if adhesive skin traction has been prescribed (this is quite uncommon). Avoid using skin traction on a patient that has cuts, scrapes, or surgical incisions where you would need to apply the wrap. Similarly, do not use skin traction on a patient experiencing ulcers or numbness. As skin traction can potentially be painful, a pain management strategy has likely been planned.  Ensure that any necessary pain medication is administered and documented. Tell the patient why skin traction has been prescribed, and how it will help them.  The procedure requires more explanation than some others, as the visual and tangible experiences associated with skin traction can be frightening. If administering skin traction to a child, explain the procedure to them as well. For instance, explain what each piece of the traction apparatus is by saying something like "This material is called traction strapping. It adheres to the skin and helps pull your bone into the correct position." or "We will run this traction cord through this pulley, and attach a small amount of weight that will help keep your leg in alignment."


Clean and slice the mushrooms. Check the weather. Find a good location for drying. Arrange the mushrooms for drying. Place the mushrooms in the site you selected for the drying area.

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As listed above, you should only clean mushrooms with a brush or a dry towel. Don’t use water, as water logging the mushrooms may cause outside mold or fungi to grow. Cut the mushrooms into slices 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) thick. Try this method for preserving mushrooms only on sunny days with very low humidity. If there is too much humidity in the air, it will take much longer for the mushrooms to dry and mold may begin to grow. Possibilities include sunny rooms, windowsills, or flat rooftops that have air circulation. Pick a spot where birds, animals, bugs, and moisture can't touch the mushrooms. There are two options for this. You can either lay the mushrooms on a drying rack, or you can string them up with cooking string.  On a drying rack: Lay the mushrooms flat in one layer. Make sure that none of them are overlapping as they might get stuck together while drying, or may warp into weird shapes. Cover the mushrooms and drying rack in a ‘net tent’ which you can get at most kitchen supply stores. The net tent will keep the bugs away. If you don’t have a net tent, you can simply use a piece of mesh fabric draped over and under the dry rack and mushrooms.     With cooking string: Lace the cooking string through the mushrooms. You can use a sterilized needle to do this. Simply run the needle through a flame to sterilize it. Then string the mushrooms along the string as if you were making a bead necklace.    If you are using the cooking string method, hang them somewhere dry and in the sun. Allow the mushrooms to dry in the sun for one or two days. Check their progress several times each day. Consider finishing the mushrooms in the oven if they aren't totally dry after approximately two days in the sun. Read Method One of this article to learn how to do this.


Clean away the surface contaminants. Pickle away the rust. Put the metal in flux. Immerse the steel in molten zinc. Take the galvanized steel out of the zinc bath slowly. Cool the galvanized steel. Inspect the galvanized steel.

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Before any other steps can be taken, the steel surface must be cleaned thoroughly. How this is done depends on what has to be cleaned away.  Dirt, grease, oil, or paint markings require the use of a mild acid, a hot alkali, or a biological cleaning agent. Asphalt, epoxy, vinyl, or the slag from welding need to be cleaned by sandblasting or with other abrasives. Pickling is done with hydrochloric acid or hot sulfuric acid; it removes both rust and mill scale. In some cases, abrasive cleaning may be enough to remove the rust, or it may be necessary to use both a pickling solution and abrasives. In some cases, larger abrasives such as buckshot are air-blasted onto the steel. In this case, “flux” is a solution of zinc ammonium chloride that removes any remaining rust and scale and protects the steel from rusting until it is actually galvanized. The bath of molten zinc should be at least 98 percent zinc and maintained at a temperature range of 815 to 850 degrees F (435 to 455 degrees C). While the steel is immersed in the zinc bath, its iron reacts with the zinc to form a series of alloy layers and an outer layer of pure zinc. Most of the excess zinc will drain off; what doesn’t drain off can be vibrated off or spun off in a centrifuge. Cooling the metal stops the galvanization reaction, which continues as long as the steel is the same temperature it was while immersed in the zinc bath. Cooling can be done in one of several ways:  Immerse the steel in a passivation solution such as potassium hydroxide.  Immerse the steel in water. Let the steel cool in the open air. Once the galvanized steel is cooled, check it to make sure the zinc coating looks good, sticks to the steel, and is thick enough. There are a number of tests that can be performed to ensure the galvanization was successful. Standards for hot-dip galvanizing and inspecting its results have been established by such organizations as the American Society for Testing and Materials (now called ASTM International), the International Standards Organization...


Clean bare aluminum with warm water and a degreasing agent. Put on safety goggles, work gloves, and a dust mask.

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Fill a tub or bucket with warm water, then add a few squirts of a degreasing cleaner. Dip a rag into the solution, then use it to wipe down the aluminum. Rinse the aluminum with plain water afterwards to remove any residue, then dry it off with a clean cloth Buy degreasers at home improvement stores. Dish soap is another great option. This is very important. The sanding process will send lots of tiny dust particles into the air. Metal sanding dust is definitely something that you don't want to breathe in. Not all dust masks are created equal. When purchasing your dust mask, make sure that it is rated for sanding dust.


Clean bristles gently. Avoid getting cushioned brushes wet for long. Do not soak wooden brushes.

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When cleaning the bristles of your brushes, go slowly and make gentle motions. Cleaning the bristles too aggressively could result in them bending or breaking during the cleaning process. Brushes that have cushioning below the handles should not be wet for long periods. Avoid soaking these brushes to disinfect them and stick to only giving them a mild rub down with a mild cleaner and water. Brushes with wooden handles or frames should never be soaked. Wood is very susceptible to water damage and soaking a wooden brush can easily ruin it. Stick to washing these brushes with a toothbrush and cleaner.


Clean components regularly. Grease the tenons well. Make adjustments to your reeds. Tend to the mechanisms.

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Use a damp cloth to clean the keys after every use. Dust under the keys with a small brush. Wash saliva off the reed with water or by using light sandpaper on it. Every week, wipe down your bassoon with a damp cloth, without wetting the pads. Dry your instrument with a swab cloth. If your bassoon has a wood finish, polish it every two months with furniture polish.  Polish silver keys monthly. You should have a professional repair person buff nickel keys annually. If your instruments' keys frequently tarnish despite regular cleaning, discuss it with the manufacturer of your bassoon. The climate you play in and the way you play your instrument may be contributing factors. For bassoons with a plastic finish, you can also use soap and water. If there are strings on your tenons, you can grease those as well. Cork wound tenons require a bit more maintenance than thread wrapped tenons. Never use cork grease on thread wound tenons.  For cork wound tenons, wipe off any old coating of grease. Then apply a thin layer of cork grease every two weeks. For thread wrapped tenons, warm a cake of canning wax in your hands until it softens. Then add a thin coat of wax onto the threads. Never use cork grease on thread wound tenons. Occasionally you will need to adjust your reed when it isn't sounding right. If the sound is flat, buzzy, or the reed responds too easily, the reed is too soft. If the sound is sharp, muffled, or the reed doesn't respond well, the reed is too hard.  Fix a soft reed by opening the first and second wires carefully with needle-nose pliers. Gently slide the reed through 600 grit sandpaper. Then use 240 grit sandpaper lightly on both sides of the front half. Fix a hard reed by slightly closing the first and second wires with needle nose pliers. Gently sand both sides of the reed with 600 grit sandpaper. Then use 240 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the back third of of the reed on both sides, while focusing on the reed's center. Every two weeks, apply heavy key oil to pivot screws, and light key oil to long...


Clean dirt from under your nails.

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Using the tip of the nail pick on a pair of clippers, clean underneath your fingernails to remove dirt and other built-up grime. Do this in the bathroom, under good lighting, so you'll be able to see your nails clearly.  In general, it's easier to clean the dirt from underneath your nails before you wash your hands instead of after. The drier the better. Avoid using a pencil to clean them out, as the lead may cause them to look dirtier.


Clean dirty sinks. Clean laundry. Maintain electrical components. Scrub fruit and vegetables. Remove old cheese from your cheese grater. Clean beauty products. Scrub baseboard. Detail your car. Polish metal.

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Whether it is the grout surrounding your kitchen sink or the metal stopper in your bathroom sink, toothbrushes are excellent for cleaning small, hard-to-reach areas such as grout lines, seals, and the crevices of sinks and faucets. When you clean grout and sealant, take care not to press down too hard; toothbrush bristles can be extremely coarse, so pressing down too hard risks removing sealant and grout. Aim for firm but gentle pressure. Toothbrushes are a great way to scrub stains and spots with a bit of spray cleaner or detergent. Simply spray or pour your cleaner onto the spot, and gently scrub in circular motions with your toothbrush.  It is particularly important that you make sure your toothbrush is clean before taking on this particular reuse, as depositing any debris onto a stain will make the stain worse. Before using, make sure no dirt or debris has accumulated. This upcycle is better for soft-bristled brushes, as hard bristles could snag or otherwise damage fabric. Your computer screen and keyboard need regular cleaning to function properly. With your computer turned off, run a dry toothbrush over and in between each of your computer keys, then gently tease the dirt and debris from the corners of your computer's screen. Do not press too hard, as toothbrush bristles are quite firm and could scratch your screen if you are not careful. Rather than going out and purchasing a dedicated vegetable brush, use your old toothbrush! It is small enough to get into the crevices of items like apples, while broad enough to make long strokes against larger vegetables such as potatoes. This use is best for fruits and vegetables with tough skin, such as apples, squash, and carrots. Softer-skinned fruits and vegetables might tear or bruise. Toothbrushes are the perfect size and shape to get into all of the nooks and crannies of your cheese grater. Keep an old toothbrush by your sink, and pull it out when your grater needs a helping hand. Using a toothbrush, you can remove debris from the vent of your hair dryer,...


Clean dust from fuzzy-leaved houseplants using an old toothbrush. Swish houseplants with small leaves in water to remove dust. Try using mayonnaise to help shine up the leaves of your plants.

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Houseplants with bristly leaves, such as African violets, can be dusted using a soft toothbrush.  Supporting the leaf with your free hand, clean it using gentle strokes of the toothbrush. Work from base to tip of each leaf. Clean the dust from the toothbrush occasionally.     In addition to a toothbrush, you can also use this technique with a soft-bristled paintbrush, a pipe cleaner, or even one of the plant's own fuzzy leaves.    Houseplants with many small leaves, such as nerve plants, would be intensely time-consuming to clean leaf-by-leaf. Instead, these plants can be swished around in lukewarm water to remove dust.  Begin by filling a bucket with lukewarm water. Adding a few drops of mild dish soap will help clean the plant's leaves.     Supporting both the pot and the soil with your hands, turn the houseplant upside down and submerge its leaves into the bucket of water. Swish it around gently, and then allow it to air dry.    This process takes lots of time, and does not work for plants such as African Violets because the leaves are fuzzy.  Dust the leaves off first as well as spraying it with dishwashing soap and lukewarm water. Put a bit of mayonnaise onto a wet cloth and wipe down each individual leaf. The oil in the mayo will create a shine on once dull-looking leaves! Lightly wipe off the mayo with a cloth afterwards.


Clean everything. Discard the outer cabbage leaves. Rinse the cabbage. Cut and core. Shred or slice the cabbage. Combine the cabbage and pickling salt. Press firmly. Add brine, if necessary. Weigh it all down. Let the cabbage ferment.

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Wash all the supplies you need for making sauerkraut in hot, soapy water. Dry thoroughly with a clean dish towel or clean paper towels.  Sauerkraut is made when cabbage undergoes fermentation. In order for the "good," beneficial bacteria to successfully start the fermentation process, potentially harmful bacteria should be as scarce as possible.  You should also make sure that your hands are thoroughly washed, as well. You can wash the canning jars at this point, but since it will still be several days or weeks before you can can the sauerkraut, it might be more beneficial for you to sanitize the jars the same day you intend to can. Peel away the outer leaves of the cabbage, which often look wilted and limp. You should also remove any leaves that appear to have been damaged by insects or other sources. Work with 5 lbs (2250 g) of cabbage at a time. Do not attempt to work with the whole batch at once, since doing so can make it difficult for the cabbage to ferment properly. Clean the cabbage by rinsing it under cool, running water. Let drain into a colander or over several layers of clean paper towels. Cut the cabbage heads into quarters. With the core pieces now exposed, cut them out, as well. To make the cabbage easier to work with, you might even wish to cut each head into eighths. Use a knife, box shredder, or food processor to create finely shredded strips of cabbage from each quarter.  Each ribbon should be about 1/16 inch (1.5875 mm) wide. If using a knife, slice across each quarter or eighth crosswise, naturally separating the leaves into ribbons. You could also use a food processor with a slicing attachment or a mandoline. Remove any especially large or tough pieces from the pile of shredded cabbage and discard. Stir in 3 Tbsp (45 ml) of salt per 5 lb (2250 g) of cabbage. Mix well to combine.  Place the shredded cabbage into a large stone crock, large glass bowl, or large food-grade plastic container. Do not use metal or any container that is not approved for use with food or drink. After mixing the...


Clean fresh wounds regularly. Keep wounds hydrated with petroleum jelly while they heal. Treat burn wounds Protect your scar from direct sunlight as it heals. Get any stitches removed when your doctor recommends it.

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If you get a wound, keeping the area clean can help prevent infections, irritation, and scarring. Wash the area daily with gentle soap and warm water to remove germs, dirt, and debris.  Avoid soaps that contain harsh perfumes and dyes. If you’re getting medical treatment for your wound, follow your doctor’s instructions for cleaning and dressing it. Wounds that develop scabs are more likely to leave scars. To prevent scabbing, always cover your clean wound with hydrating petroleum jelly, such as Vaseline. Cover the wound with a bandage to keep it clean and hydrated. Change the bandage, clean the wound, and reapply the petroleum jelly daily or any time the bandage gets wet or dirty. with aloe vera gel. Medical researchers have found that aloe helps promote the healing of burn wounds more effectively than petroleum jelly. To minimize scarring, apply 100% aloe gel to the wound daily until the burn heals.  If you have a third degree burn or a second degree burn that is larger than 3 inches (7.6 cm) across, seek medical care immediately. Don’t try to treat a severe burn on your own. You can also ask your doctor for a silver sulfadiazine prescription to help prevent infections for second- or third-degree burns. Even after your wound has healed, it’s important to keep protecting the area in order to minimize any potential scarring. If you have a fresh scar after the wound heals, put sunscreen on it or cover it with protective clothing (such as long sleeves) until it fades or disappears.  Use a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30. If you have a scar from surgery, your surgeon will probably recommend that you keep it protected from the sun for at least 1 year. If you have a wound that requires stitches, you can minimize potential scarring by having the stitches removed in the timeframe that your doctor recommends. Taking the stitches out too late or too early may result in more severe scarring.  Don’t attempt to remove the stitches on your own. Visit your doctor’s office and ask them to remove the stitches for you....


Clean gutters once in the spring and once in the fall. Get the leaves out. Flush the gutters.

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Maintaining an annual schedule of gutter cleanings will ensure that your system is functional when you'll need it most and you won't have to worry about emergency repairs in the middle of a big deluge. Remember to pencil in regular cleanings onto your calendar and the job won't need to take more than a few hours. The biggest problem affecting vinyl gutters is getting them cluttered and clumped with leaves during the autumn. Work your way around the house carefully on a ladder  and remove any clumps of leaves and twigs that have accumulated and might be keeping water from flowing properly.   Always work from a ladder and never from the roof. It may seem easier to climb up on the roof and avoid repositioning the ladder every couple of feet, but it's dangerous to be that near the edge, leaning over into the gutter. Take the safe out and work from the ground on a ladder with a spotter to help. Don't neglect the downspout. When you're finished with the gutters lining the roof, also remove large debris from the downspout as well. Using a hose, run some water through with a hose, using a gutter-cleaning attachment if you have one, to clear out any remaining debris you might have missed.  If you've been having clogging troubles, or suspect you might have leaks, have a partner flush the sections of the gutter while you walk around and look for drips, leaks, or places the water builds up and won't drain. Reconnect loose sections or fix them with roofing screws or other fasteners to keep the gutters working well.


Clean it periodically. Store it properly. Take it off when bathing.

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Gold jewelry wears and collect dirt easily so it should be cleaned regularly. If you wear the jewelry every day, clean it at least once every other month. You’ll need two bowls of warm water, dishwashing soap, a lint-free cloth, and a toothbrush.  Add a few drops of dishwashing soap to a large bowl filled with warm water. Gently place the jewelry in the water and let it soak for about 15 minutes. Pick up the jewelry and scrub it with the toothbrush. Pay special attention to the crevices where dirt can collect. Rinse the jewelry in the water bowl without the soap. Make sure you remove all soap residue. Gently blot the jewelry dry with a soft, lint-free cloth. Place the jewelry on the cloth and let it air dry for about 20 minutes. Gold jewelry easily collects dust, especially pieces with a lot of crevices. If you aren’t wearing the jewelry on a daily basis, keep it in a small jewelry box. Try to keep it separate from other jewelry pieces that might cause scratching on contact. Gold jewelry will collect soap residue and potentially wear from hot water in a shower so make sure to take it off before bathing. Place is in a soft cloth where it won’t be damaged.


Clean off any shell  material. Leave the pecans in a perforated container or a colander for 24 hours. Store the pecans in a sealed container.

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Use a pick, a toothpick, or even a narrow piece of pecan shell to scrape the woody shell material and lining from the fissures in the nut meat. Even a small amount of this material left in the nut can leave a bitter taste in the mouth of the person who consumes it. This will allow the nuts to dry out and season, giving them a better flavor when eaten. Place the seasoned pecans in a sealed container and store them in a cool, dry place. They will keep for up to a week on the kitchen counter, for several weeks in the refrigerator, and for up to a year in the freezer.


Clean only when necessary. Find a soft, clean cloth. Dampen a small area of the cloth. Hold the game disc by its rim. Wipe the disc surface from the center outward with the wet cloth. Repeat with the dry area. Wait two minutes before testing.

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Clean the disc if you notice dirt or dust on the non-labeled side, or if your console or computer can't run the disc. Frequent cleaning is unnecessary and increases the risk of scratching the disc. Always use a smooth-textured, lint-free material, such as cotton or microfiber cloth. Avoid rough materials such as facial tissues or paper towels. Use regular tap water to wet a small area of the cloth, then squeeze it out to remove excess water.  Never use household cleaning products, which can ruin the disc. Disc repair products may be sold as "scratch repair" or "CD/DVD repair" products. Do not place your fingers on the surface of the disc. Turn the game disc so the non-labeled, reflective side faces you. If the labeled side is clearly dirty, you can use this same method — but be extremely careful, as wiping the labeled side too vigorously can destroy the data on some game discs. Gently wipe the disc with the wet cloth, starting from the center hole and moving in a straight, short line to the rim. Repeat until the entire disc has been wiped. Never move the cloth in circles around the disc, as this can damage it. Wipe the same side of the disc a second time. This time, use the dry portion of the cloth to remove moisture. Take care to use the same straight strokes, from the center of the disc outward. Dry wiping is more likely to scratch the disc than wet, so be extra gentle during this step. Put the disc down with the reflective side face-up. Wait at least two minutes to allow the remaining moisture to evaporate. Once the disc is completely dry, put the disc into the disc drive of your game console or computer and check whether the problem is fixed. If there are still problems, try the other methods below. If your other games also won't run, clean your disc drive.


Clean or replace the spray arm. Change the float height. Replace a faulty water inlet valve. Tighten or replace a hose or clamp.

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Remove the lower rack from the dishwasher. Hold the base of the spray arm and unscrew it in a counter-clockwise manner. Remove the spray arm and clean it to remove blockages. If the spray arm is damaged, purchase a new one to replace it. Screw in the cleaned or new spray arm by hand-tightening it clockwise until you cannot tighten it any more. When the cleaning or repair is complete, replace the lower rack. The float is a saucer-shaped device on the bottom of the tub. Under the float, on the bottom of the dishwasher, is the float switch that controls the water level. Change the switch to the higher position to change the float height and lower the water level in the dishwasher. When a faulty or damaged water inlet valve is the cause of the leak, you can fix the leak by replacing the inlet valve. To remove the old valve, you'll remove the hoses, take out the screws, and remove the spring clamp. You can then replace it with a new water inlet valve. To replace a broken or torn hose, release the clamps holding the hose in place. Replace the old hose with a new one, and reattach the clamps. Or, if the problem is a loose clamp, simply tighten the clamp where the connection was leaking.


Clean out a sturdy water bottle. Cut the water bottle in half. Smooth out the edges. Cut the small end off of a balloon. Cut out a small piece of wood. Add hot glue and a string. Line up the wood on the balloon. Tie a knot in the thread. Attach stakes. Create the trigger. Create the tripwire. Pull out the knot through the mouth of the bottle. Set the bottle in the ground. Stretch out the string. Add flour to the trap. Wait for someone to trip the wire.

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A standard 20 or 24 ounce bottle is fine for this purpose. Mark the middle of the bottle. Use a hacksaw or scissors to cut the bottle in half. You'll use the top half of the bottle for this trap. Use sandpaper to smooth the edge of the bottle. Also, tape over the edges with duct tape. Stretch the rest of the balloon over the bottle opening. It doesn't have to go over all the edges. It just needs to stretch across the middle in a single band. Part of a Popsicle stick would work well for this project. It should be shorter than the balloon band is wide. Round the edges. Place hot glue on the piece of wood. Glue down a strong piece of string across the wood. The balloon should go across the width of the balloon band. Let the strings go down on either side. Pull the ends through the mouth of the bottle, going from the inside of the bottle to the outside. Tie a knot in the thread that rests partway down the inside of the bottle. Use three pieces of sharp wood that are longer than the half bottle. Glue or tape them them on to each side. They should stick out past the mouth but not out past the other end. You'll use these to stick the tripwire in the ground. Use a small piece of wood that barely reaches across the mouth of the bottle. Tie a long string to the end. Tie the other end of the string to the top of a small stake. A Popsicle stick will work for this part as well. Place the small stick under the knot. Angle the wood across the mouth of the bottle. Push the stakes in the ground, being careful not to pull the trigger. To truly prank your friends, you need to disguise the trap somehow. However, you can't hide the top of the bottle, as that will release your trap. Stretch the string out to the stake. Shove the stake in the ground. Tip flour or water into the balloon trap. When the wire is tripped, the balloon will throw the flour or water into the air, getting it all over your friend.


Clean out all the junk left behind by browsers. Search for and destroy spyware and/or viruses on your PC. Defrag your hard drive to keep your computer running smoothly. Uninstall programs you no longer use, and delete music you no longer listen to. Control what programs are allowed to run at startup. Use your computer's disk management systems.

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To do this, you can use the Disk Cleanup utility included on Windows, or you can download a freeware program such as CCleaner to do it for you. In Linux you can use Kleansweep or Bleachbit. Cookies and cache left behind by browsers can add up to gigabytes of wasted space, so it is imperative they're deleted. There is a myriad of tools available to do this. Avast is a good one to use. Windows XP and up includes a utility to do this, and Windows Vista and up will automatically defrag your hard drive once a week. You'll be surprised how much space you'll free up. This can greatly reduce your startup times.  In Windows 8 and 10, open the task manager, then select the Startup tab. On Windows XP, Vista, and 7, open command prompt, then type "msconfig". Once msconfig opens, then select the Startup tab. CCleaner also has a feature that allows you to do the same thing (Tools--->Startup) For Windows, select Performance and Maintenance and then choose "Rearrange items on your hard disk..." and "Free up space on your hard disk." For Mac, go to the Applications Folder, select Utilities Folder then launch Disk Utility.


Clean out the cage and litter box. Groom your rabbit. Bathe your rabbit only when necessary. Know when to take him to the vet.

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You should regularly clean out your rabbit's housing and its litter tray. It's important to provide a well-kept and clean environment for them to live in. You can empty out and replace soiled bedding every day and it won't take long. Give the cage a more thorough clean once a week.  Once a month, or every two weeks if needed, you should completely clean out the cage, scrubbing it throughout and letting it dry. Only put the rabbits back in once the cage is completely dry. It's good to regularly brush your rabbit with a soft brush to remove any excess hair. Moulting hair can build up in mats and cause sores to develop if you don't groom him sufficiently. Brushing will generally help to keep his coat in top condition. When you are brushing go from the back of the head down to the tail.  Be gentle and patient with your rabbit. Different rabbits will respond to being brushed in different ways.  You can also clip your rabbit's nails, but you should speak to your vet before attempting this. Bathing should only be done if your rabbit is very dirty and is unable to clean himself.  Use shampoo designed for washing rabbits. Make sure he has secure footing at the bottom of the bowl, and the water is warm. The biggest risk would be him taking fright, jumping out of the bowl or bath, and injuring himself.  You can also spot clean him by sprinkling a little baby cornstarch onto his fur and working it through with a fine flea comb.  Instead of dipping him in water, try dampening a cloth with warm water and moistening the fur, trying not to let the skin get wet. Dry him off with a hair dryer set to the lowest setting always being gentle and sensitive. It's recommended that you bring your rabbit to your local vets for a check-up at least once a year. In between these times you can help by observing your rabbit and watching out for any signs of ill health. If you think he might be ill make an appointment with the vet as soon as possible. Symptoms to look out for include:  Your rabbit stopping eating. Your rabbit not having a...


Clean out the refrigerator. Remove all food from the pantry. Guard against insects and rodents. Remove items that could freeze. Take all the trash out of your home before you leave.

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Don't keep anything that is likely to go bad during the time you are away.  Empty the freezer. Don't leave anything in it in case the electricity is off for an extended period of time; you won't necessarily be aware if this occurs, and the food will have thawed and refrozen, which is very dangerous. If you must keep frozen food, here is one method for determining if your freezer has warmed during the winter: freeze a container of water solid, then place a coin on the surface of the ice; if the coin has sunk into the ice when you return, then the freezer warmed, letting the ice melt and then refreeze. Wash the refrigerator and freezer thoroughly. Prop open their doors, the better to forestall mold and mildew (which like to grow in the dark) and their odors, which may transfer to the refrigerator’s plastic parts. To further thwart odors, place an open bag of activated charcoal on the inside of the open refrigerator. Dry foods that remain should be locked in tin- or aluminum-lined cupboards or cabinets, and seeds and grains should be stored in metal containers with tight lids. Wash kitchen trash containers and put away soap, sponges, candles and other possible sources of food for vermin. Place a botanical rodent repellent under the sink and on kitchen counters and use  rodent deterrents under the sink and in the garage, too. In areas subject to freezing, remove all bottled liquids, such as mineral water, soda, beer and paint, because their containers may burst when their contents freeze. Empty water from jars, vases and even decorative indoor mini-fountains.


Clean out your closet and purge clothes you don’t like. Shop for clothing and accessories that express your personal style. Create outfits that make you feel your best.

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Take everything out of your closet and try on all of your clothes. Look at yourself in the mirror to see if you like each item. Keep items that make you look and feel great and donate items you don’t like. Wearing clothes that make you feel amazing will help you have more confidence, which makes people see you as being more attractive. Look for items that fit your sense of style and fashion preferences. Additionally, choose clothing and accessories that relate to your hobbies and interests. This will help you express your personality through your style.  For instance, you might look for a leather jacket if you want to create an edgy or rocker look. Similarly, you might get band t-shirts if you love music or sports jerseys if you’re an athlete. You don’t need to spend a lot of money to have a great wardrobe. Look for sales and shop at thrift stores to find budget-friendly finds. When you do your back to school shopping, try on each item that you’re considering purchasing to make sure that it flatters you. Purchase items that show off your best features and make you feel amazing. Then, arrange your closet so that it’s easy to pull out outfits that you like. It’s better to have a couple of outfits that look great on you rather than a bunch of clothes that are just okay.


Clean out your pantry. Eat fresh foods. Stay away from wheat products. Do not eat other gluten-containing grains. Be aware some foods have to be verified. Look for other gluten-free products. Avoid processed foods.

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The first step for immediately removing gluten from your diet is to clean out your pantry. You need to get rid of everything that contains gluten. If you share a house with people who eat gluten, then label foods CLEARLY as "gluten" and "gluten-free." Most processed foods or foods that come in a package contain gluten. A good way to immediately get rid of gluten is to fill your plate with fresh foods. This includes vegetables, fruits, meat, and gluten-free grains, like rice and quinoa. These foods are a lot healthier anyway. These foods don't have gluten, so you are safe when you eat them. Gluten is most commonly found in foods containing wheat or wheat varieties. Gluten is also in oats, barley and rye. Wheat starch also contains gluten. The varieties of wheat that include gluten are:  Wheatberries Durum Emmer Semolina Spelt Farina Farro Graham KAMUT® khorasan wheat Einkorn wheat In addition to wheat, stay away from other grains. Rye, barley, and triticale are grains you should avoid. You should also not eat Brewer’s yeast or oats, unless the oats are labeled gluten-free.  Don’t eat breads, cereals, pastas, cakes, and other products made from grains, unless they are gluten-free. You should also avoid breaded meats, and foods that have been fried in the same oils gluten food has been cooked in. Eliminate crackers, pastries, baked goods, pancakes and waffles, breading mixes, sauces and gravies (which often use wheat-flours as thickeners), and flour tortillas. Know that soy sauce is not considered gluten-free unless it specifically labeled so. You should also avoid malt products because they also contain gluten. Try to avoid malted flours, malted beverages, malted milk, malt syrup or extract, and malt vinegar. There are some foods that may contain gluten and need to be verified. Before eating these foods, make sure to read the label carefully. Foods to be careful about include:  Candy Energy bars Imitation meats Salad dressings Seasonings Soup bases and broths Certain foods, like gravies, are often made with...


Clean out your room about 2 weeks prior to the sale. Ask your family to find things they no longer want.

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Start going through your clothes, drawers, closet, and under your bed. Gather everything you don't want anymore. When searching through your clothes, if you haven't worn something in 6 to 12 months, you can get rid of it, because you probably won't wear it again. Have your friends do the same thing. Have them put these things in a central box or place for you to sort later.  If they want money too, arrange a commission for your effort. You might even want to ask your neighbors for things they no longer want. Let them know it's for your yard sale. Give people a good reason for wanting to raise money, such as saving for your summer trip or wanting to buy a laptop for school, and they may be even more helpful in donating items.


Clean out your work area. Shut off the water. Drain excess water from the pipes.

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Remove everything from under the sink, including soaps, garbage cans, cleaners, and anything else you might be storing under there. When the area has been cleared, lay down an old towel to protect the shelf from water damage in case any of the pipes, hoses, fittings, or other components happen to leak. Clearing out the area will give you an easier area to work in, and protect items from water. This should always be the first thing you do before starting any plumbing work, and you won’t be able to replace the hoses unless the water is off. Turn the water shutoff valve to the right (clockwise) to turn off the water. To find the shutoff valve, simply follow the pipes attaching the faucets to the supply line. Near where they connect, there should be a shutoff valve for the hot and cold water. This will prevent water from leaking everywhere when you remove the hoses. To drain out the excess water, simply turn on the taps for the hot, cold, and pull-out faucets until the water runs dry.  This will get standing water out of the hoses and pipes and relieve pressure from the line.  If water still comes out of the faucet after turning off the valve, you’ll need to replace the shutoff valve before disconnecting the supply line(s). Test the temperature of the water to determine which valve isn’t working if you have 2 faucet handles. Be sure to turn off the main water supply before replacing the shutoff valve.


Clean the Moka pot

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using hot water and no detergent. Empty the Moka pot and let it cool down completely before you begin to clean it. Then disassemble the Moka pot and rinse out each part thoroughly using cool water. Dry each part with a tea towel. If you notice an excess of coffee build up, use a dry paper towel to remove this.


Clean the area of any dirt or debris. Select an enzymatic cleaning solution. Use your nose or a UV flashlight to find the urine.

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If there is residue stuck to the floor, such as old carpet adhesive, remove it with a scraper. Starting off with a clean floor means you won't create a muddy mess when you start adding the cleaning chemicals, nor will you drive any of the grime down into the porous surface of the concrete. Remove any furniture that might get in the way or could be harmed by the harsh chemicals you will be using and tape off any baseboard trim. Urine contains uric acid crystals, which are insoluble and bond tightly with the surface--in this case, the hard, porous concrete. Regular cleaning agents like soap and water won't bind to the uric acid, so no matter how many times you clean the area, those crystals stay put. An enzymatic cleaner will break down the uric acid and finally release it from the concrete.  Even if you think the smell is gone after using conventional cleaning products, it will only take a little bit of moisture (even just a humid day) to revive the smell of urine. The presence of water causes the uric acid to release a gas, which creates a strong, foul odor. Look for enzymatic cleaners made especially for the removal of pet urine (you can even get one specifically for dogs or cats). A UV or blacklight can sometimes reveal the site of an old stain, which can be helpful if you've already washed the floor several times and there's no visual sign of the urine. Turn off the lights in the room and hold the UV light one to three feet from the floor. The stain may show up as a yellow, blue, or green mark. Use a piece of chalk to mark the spot if you only plan to spot-treat the floor.  If the UV light doesn't work, you can also try smelling out the spot. Air the room out and then simply sniff the room until you've zeroed in on the area. Though you probably want to pay extra attention to these spots, possibly treating them more than once, it is recommended you treat the entire floor so you don't miss any spots that didn't show up under the UV light.  Treating the entire floor will also keep your floor from appearing...


Clean the area. Apply cold on the day of the injury. Switch to warm compresses. Take over the counter painkillers. Stay hydrated. Protect your lips with lip balm or chapstick. Keep the lip uncovered and pressure-free to avoid injuring it again. Eat a healthy diet.

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While your lip is swollen and sore, it is vulnerable to injury. Sponge it with water gently, several times a day or whenever it gets dirty. Do not pick at it or wipe it.  If the lip swelled after an injury, especially a fall, disinfect it with an antiseptic. If the lip is swollen due to a piercing, follow the advice from the person who did the procedure. Don't take the piercing in and out unnecessarily. Wash your hands before you handle it. Do not clean with rubbing alcohol, which can make it worse. Wrap ice in a towel, or use an ice pack from the freezer. Place it gently on your swollen lip. This will reduce swelling for a recent injury. After the first few hours, cold is not typically effective, except to relieve pain. If you don't have ice, freeze a spoon for 5-15 minutes and put that on your swollen lip. Alternatively, suck on a popsicle. After the initial swelling is done, warmth may encourage healing. Heat water until hot, but still cool enough to touch. Dip a towel in the water, then wring out the excess. Hold it to your lips for 10 minutes. Repeat once an hour, several times a day or until swelling reverses. Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) are medications that decrease pain and swelling. The most common over-the-counter variants are acetaminophen, ibuprofen, and naproxen. Drink plenty of water to keep your lips hydrated and avoid further cracking or swelling. These treatments moisturize your lips, preventing further cracking and drying.  There are many ways to make your own lip balm. Try combining 2 parts coconut oil, 2 parts olive oil, 2 parts grated beeswax, and a few drops of essential oil for scent. In a pinch, just dab your lips with coconut oil or aloe vera gel. Avoid balms that contain camphor, menthol, or phenol. Use petroleum jelly sparingly, as it may cause health issues in large quantities, and may not add much additional moisture. Pressure can cause more injury and a lot more pain. Try to keep the bruised area free and exposed to air. If chewing food hurts, healing will take...


Clean the battery terminals to remove corrosion. Buy the correct replacement battery. Secure the new battery to the bracket and grease the terminals. Reconnect the positive cable first. Reconnect the negative cable next. Close the hood and start your vehicle.

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Check the terminals for powdery buildup, which may be green, blue, gray, or white. Use an emery cloth or 100-grit sandpaper to carefully clean the corrosion off of the terminals until they’re shiny. Remember that battery acid is corrosive, so avoid getting it on your skin or clothes. Take a picture of or write down any information on the old battery, such as the size, dimensions, and part number. Head to an auto parts store and give the clerk this information as well as the year, make, model, and engine size of your vehicle. They will be able to find you the appropriate replacement.  Automotive batteries vary in size and electrical capacity so make sure you purchase one designed for your specific vehicle. If you live in the U.S., you may want to bring the old battery with you. Some auto parts stores will let you trade in the old battery so you don’t have to pay a “core fee” for the new one. If the auto parts store won’t take the old battery off your hands, take it to a service or recycling center for disposal. Do not throw it away because it contains corrosive material. Place the new battery in the battery tray and secure it to the bracket. Simply reverse the process you used to remove the battery from the bracket. Then, coat each of the terminals in a thin layer of lithium grease to prevent corrosion.  Make sure the battery is oriented the same way as the old one. Check that all the fasteners on the bracket are secure so the battery doesn’t vibrate or move around while you’re driving. Do not spray the lithium grease on any other parts of the engine block other than the positive and negative terminals. Undo the cable tie securing the positive cable to the engine bay, being careful not to touch the end of it to anything metal. Put the cable over the terminal and tighten it down with a wrench. Put the cover over the terminal, if the battery has one. Repeat the process to remove the cable tie and reattach the negative cable to the negative terminal. Tighten the clamp with a wrench and make sure neither the...


Clean the battery terminals. Pour in enough distilled water to reach the fill level on each battery cell. Place the charger as far from the battery as its cables will allow. Set the charger to deliver the correct voltage. Connect one charger clip to the positive post on the battery. Connect the second charger clip to ground. Plug the charger into an outlet. Leave the battery on the charger until the battery is fully charged.

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Use a mixture of baking soda and water to clean any corrosion off the terminals and neutralize any sulfuric acid that may have spilled on them. You can apply the mixture with an old toothbrush. Alternatively, you can clean off mild corrosion by using a wire brush. Auto parts stores even sell a special round wire brush that fits over the terminals. Do not touch your eyes, nose, or mouth right after cleaning the terminals. Wash your hands immediately. Do not touch any white gunk that may appear on the terminals, as this is congealed sulfuric acid. Pouring water into your battery cells disperses hydrogen gas from the cell. Do not use tap water as it will damage your battery over time.  Replace the cell caps after filling. Most U.S. batteries, they are equipped with flame arrestors. If your battery does not have flame-arresting caps, put a wet cloth across the top of the caps. If you have a battery that does not need filled with water (known as maintenance free batteries) or if your battery caps are sealed then you should ignore this step and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for charging your battery. This will reduce the possibility of damage to the unit from any airborne sulfuric acid vapor. Never place the charger directly above or below the battery. This is done by adjusting the voltage output selector, usually on the front of the charging unit. If the required voltage isn’t posted on the battery case itself, it should be in the vehicle owner’s manual. If your charger has an adjustable rate of charge you should start at the lowest rate. This step is the same whether the battery is removed from the vehicle for charging or not. There are two different cases for connecting the ground.  If the battery has not been removed from the vehicle, connect the battery charger’s grounding cable to a heavy-gauge metal part of the engine block or chassis. This prevents arcing at the battery terminal and will not run the risk of causing the battery to explode. Clipping the grounding cable directly to the negative...