Set up the pitch. Bowl the ball. Hit the ball and run. Finish the game.

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One batsman stands at each end of the pitch, behind the popping crease but ahead of the bowling crease. The bowler also stands at one end of the crease, starting behind the bowling crease, and bowls to the other end. The batsman to whom the bowler bowls is the striker; the batsman at the same end as the bowler is the non-striker.  The wicket-keeper crouches behind the striker's wicket and the bowling crease. Their job is to catch the ball should the striker miss or decline to hit the bowl. When the wicket-keeper successfully catches a ball, the striker is normally declared out. The other 9 members of the fielding team can stand in any configuration at any time, as long as they stay outside the pitch. The bowler starts behind the bowling crease, and bowls the ball before reaching the popping crease by moving forward and throwing the ball. A cricket bowl is always performed over-the-shoulder, with a completely straight arm. The ball is allowed to bounce on the pitch once before reaching the striker, though it doesn't have to.  If the bowler steps past the popping crease during the bowl, the play is called as “no ball” by the umpires. The batsmen can run as though they hit the ball, but can't be out except by a few specific methods. Different bowlers have different movement styles, and may rush forward for a fast bowl, or step forward a couple of times and twist for a trickier bowl. The fastest bowls can fly at up to 90 mph (140 km/h), which given the short length of the pitch, requires a very fast response from the striker. The bowl must reach the striker at or below the waist. If it's higher, or it sails out past the sides of the pitch, it is called a “wide” ball, or a “no ball,” especially in cases where the ball isn't far from the striker but is too high to hit. Using the flat side of the cricket bat, the striker can attempt to hit the ball. There are many different types of strike, each with a different advantage over the others. Once the striker has hit the ball, they and the non-striker can choose to run...


Set up the problem. Know the cubes of single digit numbers. Find the first digit of your solution. Set up to find the next digit. Find the beginning of the next divisor. Find the next number in your cube root solution. Determine the rest of the divisor. Multiply and subtract. Decide whether to proceed for more accuracy. Find the divisor for the next round. Multiply the divisor by your solution number. Write down your final answer.

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Solving the cube root of a number is going to look like solving a long division problem, with a few special differences. The first step is to set up the problem in the proper format.  Write down the number whose cube root you want to find. Write the digits in groups of three, using the decimal point as your starting place. For this example, you will find the cube root of 10. Write this as 10. 000 000. The extra 0s are to allow precision in the solution. Draw a cube root radical sign over the number. This serves the same purpose as the long division bar line. The only difference is the shape of the symbol. Place a decimal point above the bar line, directly above the decimal point in the original number. You will use these in the computations. These cubes are as follows:  13=1∗1∗1=1{\displaystyle 1^{3}=1*1*1=1} 23=2∗2∗2=8{\displaystyle 2^{3}=2*2*2=8} 33=3∗3∗3=27{\displaystyle 3^{3}=3*3*3=27} 43=4∗4∗4=64{\displaystyle 4^{3}=4*4*4=64} 53=5∗5∗5=125{\displaystyle 5^{3}=5*5*5=125} 63=6∗6∗6=216{\displaystyle 6^{3}=6*6*6=216} 73=7∗7∗7=343{\displaystyle 7^{3}=7*7*7=343} 83=8∗8∗8=512{\displaystyle 8^{3}=8*8*8=512} 93=9∗9∗9=729{\displaystyle 9^{3}=9*9*9=729} 103=10∗10∗10=1000{\displaystyle 10^{3}=10*10*10=1000} Select a number that, when cubed, gives the largest possible result less than the first set of three numbers.  In this example, the first set of three numbers is 10. Find the largest perfect cube that is less than 10. That number is 8, and its cube root is 2. Write the number 2 above the radical bar line, over the number 10. Write the value of 23{\displaystyle 2^{3}}, which is 8, underneath the number 10, draw a line and subtract, just as you would in long division. The result is a 2. After the subtraction, you have the first digit of your solution. You need to decide if this one digit is a precise enough result. In most cases, it will not be. You can check by cubing the single digit and decide if that is close enough to the result you wanted. Here, because 23{\displaystyle 2^{3}} is only 8, not very close to 10,...


Set up the problem. Turn the whole number into a fraction. Multiply the numerators. Multiply the denominators. Simplify the fraction.

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When a problem asks you what a fraction of a whole number is, the problem is one of multiplication, and you need to multiply the fraction and the whole number. Look for the keyword of. When you see of in a word problem, you need to multiply. For example, if the problem asks, “What is 56{\displaystyle {\frac {5}{6}}} of 294{\displaystyle 294}," you need to set up 56×294{\displaystyle {\frac {5}{6}}\times 294}. To do this, give it a denominator of 1. Remember, the denominator is the number underneath the fraction bar. For example, you would change 294{\displaystyle 294} to 2941{\displaystyle {\frac {294}{1}}}. So the new problem becomes 56×2941{\displaystyle {\frac {5}{6}}\times {\frac {294}{1}}}. Remember that the numerators are the numbers above the fraction bars. For example, 5×294=1,470{\displaystyle 5\times 294=1,470}. Place this number under the product of the numerators. For example, 6×1=6{\displaystyle 6\times 1=6}, so 56×2941=1,4706{\displaystyle {\frac {5}{6}}\times {\frac {294}{1}}={\frac {1,470}{6}}}. To do this, divide the numerator by the denominator. This will give you your final answer as a whole number or in decimal form. If the result is not a whole number and you need the answer written in the form of a fraction, you should reduce the fraction by dividing the numerator and denominator by their greatest common factor. For complete instructions on how to reduce a fraction, read Reduce Fractions. For example, 1,470÷6=245{\displaystyle 1,470\div 6=245}, so 56{\displaystyle {\frac {5}{6}}} of 294=245{\displaystyle 294=245}.


Set up the quadratic equation in the proper form. Recognize the standard format of the quadratic. Recall the form of a perfect square quadratic function. Make sure the coefficient on x2{\displaystyle x^{2}} is 1. Find one-half of the middle coefficient and square it. Add AND subtract the needed third term, at the same time. Factor the perfect square quadratic. Define the domain and range of the function. Switch the x and y values. Rewrite the inverted equation in terms of y. Determine the domain and range of the inverse function. Check that your inverse function works.

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In order to begin finding the inverse, you must begin with the equation in the format f(x)=ax2+bx+c{\displaystyle f(x)=ax^{2}+bx+c}. If necessary, you may need to combine similar terms to get the equation into this format. With the equation written this way, you can begin to tell some information about it. The first thing to notice is the value of the coefficient a. If a>0, then the equation defines a parabola whose ends point upward. If a<0, the equation defines a parabola whose ends point downward. Notice that a≠0. If it did, then this would be a linear function and not quadratic. Before you can find the inverse function, you will need to rewrite your equation into the standard format. The standard format for any quadratic function is f(x)=a(x−h)2+k{\displaystyle f(x)=a(x-h)^{2}+k}. The numerical terms a, h and k will be developed as you transform the equation through a process known as completing the square. Notice that this standard format consists of a perfect square term, (x−h)2{\displaystyle (x-h)^{2}}, which is then adjusted by the other two elements a and k. To get to this perfect square form, you will need to create certain conditions in your quadratic equation. Remember that a quadratic function that is a perfect square originates with two binomials of (x+b)(x+b){\displaystyle (x+b)(x+b)}, or (x+b)2{\displaystyle (x+b)^{2}}. When you perform this multiplication, you get a result of x2+2bx+b2{\displaystyle x^{2}+2bx+b^{2}}. Thus, the first term of the quadratic is the first term of the binomial, squared, and the last term of the quadratic is the square of the second term of the binomial. The middle term is comprised of 2 times the product of the two terms, in this case 2∗x∗b{\displaystyle 2*x*b}. To complete the square, you will be working in reverse. You will start with x2{\displaystyle x^{2}} and some second x-term. From the coefficient of that term, which you can define as “2b,” you will need to find b2{\displaystyle b^{2}}. This will require a combination of dividing by two and then squaring...


Set up the quote. Introduce the source of the quote. Provide the quote.

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Before presenting the quote that you will be analyzing, provide a sentence or two that sets up its tone and importance. Give some indication of how the quote should be received by attributing a positive or negative value to it. If possible, show how the quote was received when it it was first spoken or written.  For instance, set up a negative quote by saying something like, "Critics of the group were vocal about their dismay." Situate a quote within a theme or phenomenon by saying something like, "The anti-vaccine movement has swept across the country in recent years." Frame the quote within the context of who said it, when, and where. Provide the name of the individual who said it, and a bit of background about who they were and why they said it. Be sure to note when the quote was made and through what medium (e.g., in a book or speech). For instance: "In his 1975 publication, 'Discipline and Punish: The Birth of the Prison', Michel Foucault had this to say about power, knowledge, and sexuality : [...]" As a general rule, you should always present a quote in the same way as it was originally presented. Reproduce the spelling, internal punctuation, and capitalization of written quotes exactly, even if these elements are grammatically incorrect. If you are quoting a lecture, speech, or interview, make sure to get an accurate transcript to use from a library or reputable online archive.


Set up the sleeping bags. When it gets late, just talk to your friends. Go to sleep.

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You don't have to go to sleep just yet, but it's great to be comfy. Also let your friends change into their PJ's (if someone forgot PJ's, have extras ready). You can keep watching the movie if you want. Ask about their crushes and things (if you didn't already in Truth or Dare). Just remember, if they ask you about a secret, you don't have to tell them if it's that personal. Or, change the subject. Luckily, there's many of them. Talk about sports, vacations, school, boys, etc. As much as you want to, it's not healthy to stay up the whole night. You should probably go to sleep at midnight or one o'clock, because if you wake up at nine, you'll get a great amount of sleep. If someone falls asleep early, don't wake them up! If you wake up early, don't wake your parents unless absolutely necessary. Let them rest.


Set up the treadmill. Familiarize your dog with the treadmill. Get your dog to walk on the treadmill while it's turned off.

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Before you can begin training your dog, you'll need to set the treadmill up in the proper fashion. The treadmill should be positioned so it is not facing the wall and your dog will not be facing the wall when walking on it. You don't want your dog to think she's going to walk into the wall if she uses the treadmill. Your dog will not get on the treadmill right away. As it's a new piece of machinery, she will need time and patience to familiarize herself with the device.  Always introduce your dog to a new treadmill with the machine turned off first. If a dog encounters a treadmill while it's on and making noise, she can easily become frightened.  Allow your dog to sniff the treadmill and familiarize herself with the machine for a few days. Let her get used to the new object in her home.  Try to turn the treadmill into a positive object. Feed your dog meals and treats around the treadmill. Place her water bowl and toys near it. Once your dog is familiar enough with the treadmill that she remains calm in its presence, try to urge her to walk on it while it's turned off.  You can use treats to lure your dog onto the treadmill. While using the treats to get her to walk on the treadmill, use a verbal command like "Get on" to reinforce this behavior.  Praise your dog the second she steps on the treadmill and give her a treat.  Practice getting your dog on the treadmill a few times a day. Once she gets on the treadmill in response to the command "Get on" the majority of the time, you can move on to letting her walk on the treadmill.


Set up your aquarium and filtration system. Introduce a small number of hardy fish to the tank. Feed fish sparingly. Perform frequent water changes. Use test kits to monitor toxin levels. Add additional fish gradually once toxin levels are near-zero.

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To start, you'll want your aquarium completely assembled and filled with everything you want in it, besides the fish. See our articles on setting up freshwater and marine aquariums for more information. Below is a brief checklist of things you'll want to do before getting started — this may not match all aquariums perfectly:  Assemble the aquarium Add substrate Add water Add air stones, air pumps, etc. Add plants, rocks, etc. Add filtration system (and/or protein skimmer) Add heater Your goal in this cycling process is to populate the tank with fish that produce waste but can survive the initial high levels of toxins long enough for the beneficial waste-processing bacteria to grow. Thus, you'll want to pick a variety that is known for being a good cycling fish and start with a small number. Later, once the bacteria have grown, you can slowly add more fish of different types. Below are just a few good choices for cycling fish:  White Clouds Zebra Danios Cherry or Tiger Barbs Pseudotrophius Zebra Banded Gouramis X-ray Tetras Pupfish Most minnows Most guppies When cycling an aquarium with your fish, it's very important not to overfeed them. Though different fish may have different dietary needs, a good rule of thumb is to give food once every other day. Only offer a moderate-sized meal — you don't want any extra food left over when the fish are done eating. This is done for two reasons:  Fish who eat more produce more waste, which can cause the levels of toxins in the tank to rise before the bacteria have a chance to colonize the aquarium. Leftover food will eventually rot, producing toxins on its own. While you're waiting for your tank to cycle, every few days, replace about 10-25% of the tank's water. As with the reduced feeding schedule described above, this is another way of ensuring that toxin levels don't get too high before the bacteria has a chance to grow. If you have a saltwater tank, don't forget to add a suitable amount of marine salt every time you change the water to keep the tank at a proper...


Set up your beakers and solutions. Start heating your solutions. Set up your power supply.

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In addition to the actual plating solution, your kit will come with an activating solution. These solutions do not go into the same beaker. Instead, set them up next to one another, so you can easily move the item to be plated from the activating solution to the distilled water to the plating solution when the time comes without the risk of introducing contaminants. The solutions will not need constant heat, but they will need to be at a certain temperature when you actually plate the item, so start heating them early in the process. The exact temperatures to which you heat your solutions will depend upon the specifics of the kit you purchased, such as the karat count. Follow the directions closely. Whether you have your own or your kit came with one, set up your current source to the guidelines specified in your specific kit.  Purchasing a start-up kit designed for gold plating is optimal.  However, If your kit did not come with a source for the electrical current, do not worry because you can still set up your own. The process requires a DC power source, so you may need to purchase a rectifier in order to change an AC power source (such as a home outlet) to DC. The easiest solution is to purchase a variable power supply. For small home projects such as gold plating a coin or a pen, you can purchase an inexpensive variable power supply, which makes setting up your power source as easy as plugging it in, clipping your kit's plating brush to the positive output, and setting the voltage dial to your kit's specifications. For most kits, the current is going to be somewhere around three volts, though some may go as high as twelve volts.


Set up your blender and plug it in. Garnish with a swirl of chocolate syrup or chips. Serve your coffee shake immediately.

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Take your blender out of storage, make sure it’s off, and plug it in. Double check that you have the lid and that it fits tightly. Add final touches like whipped cream, chocolate syrup, or shaved pieces of chocolate. Try topping the shake with whipped cream, then dust it with cocoa or drizzle chocolate or caramel over it. Start sipping or serve your shake before it has a chance to melt. Drink it straight from the glass or with a large straw. A spoon might come in handy, especially if you’ve garnished it with chocolate shavings or whipped cream.


Set up your computer monitor at eye level. Use an ergonomic chair with proper lumbar support. Do not replace your chair with an exercise or gym ball. Sit with both feet on the ground and your knees at or above hip level. Stretch, walk, or stand every half hour. Drive sitting with your back firmly against the seat for proper support. Sleep on a firm mattress with pillows.

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Position the computer screen directly in front of the user so the body and neck do not have to twist to view. Ensure the screen rests at eye level so you do not have to tilt your head up or down to see the screen properly.  Keep your head level while using the computer to keep your spine straight. Avoid tucking your chin into your chest. If you have a desk job that requires you to sit for many hours a day, a chair with proper back support is a must. The lower back has an inward curve that straight-backed chairs do not account for. Sitting for extended amounts of time in a straight-backed chair can lead to back pain and muscle fatigue.  Purchase a chair with a curved back or one that has an adjustable lumbar support. You can make a DIY lumbar support by using a rolled up towel or pillow and placing at the base of your spine. Lumbar support add-ons can also be purchased for a marginal price if you don't want to buy a whole new chair. Though it has been in fashion to swap out your office chair to balance on an exercise ball while sitting at your desk, there is no added benefit in doing so. It will not give you a mini ab work out, nor will it help improve your posture. When sitting for a long time, you might be tempted to cross your legs or slouch. The best way to keep good posture at your desk is to keep both feet planted on the ground. Use a footrest, if necessary.  Keep your back straight against the chair. Keep your shoulders relaxed, but not rounded down or pulled backward. It's easy to get bogged down in work, but your posture will thank you by frequently moving a little bit. Set a timer on your desk and when it goes off stand up and stretch out. Walk to the break room to get some water, or go say hi to a work mate.  You don't have to go on an extended walk, just take a lap around the office. Avoid reclining the seat too far. Use a lumbar support at the curve of your back. Make sure your knees are at the same level or higher than your hips. Move the seat close enough to the steering wheel to allow your...


Set up your desk. Get a chair that supports you properly. Install bookshelves and other storage containers.

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When you choose your desk, focus on your posture. Your back should be straight or slightly reclined and your shoulders should be relaxed. Find a desk that lets you sit with your thighs and forearms at right angles to the floor. Your head should be level and you should look slightly down at your monitor or reading material. Consider a stand-sit desk if you like the freedom to both stand and sit while you work. Find a chair that is about 17-19 inches or about 43-48 centimeters deep with good lower back support. You might consider a chair with height-adjustable lumbar support. Position your chair so that your feet are on the floor or get a footrest to keep your knees parallel to the floor.  Your chair should let you line up your wrists with your forearms. Make sure you can comfortably shift your position in your chair throughout your workday to help with circulation. To keep all of your supplies, references, and work materials in your home office, you will need bookshelves and other storage. Start by grouping the same types of work materials together. Next find the shelves and other types of storage that will fit the materials you need for your work.  You can use bookshelves or you can hang shelving. Use your space wisely by hanging filing and storage systems on your walls or the backs of doors. Create a filing system that makes sense so you can retrieve papers easily.


Set up your expression. Find the factored form using one of the methods below. Check your work!

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The standard format for the quadratic equation is:ax2 + bx + c = 0 Start by ordering the terms in your equation from highest to lowest power, just like this standard format. For example, take: 6 + 6x2 + 13x = 0 We will re-order this expression so it's easier to work with by simply moving the terms around:6x2 + 13x + 6 = 0 Factoring the polynomial will result in two smaller expressions which can be multiplied to produce the original polynomial:6x2 + 13x + 6 = (2x + 3)(3x + 2) In this example, (2x +3) and (3x + 2) are factors of the original expression, 6x2 + 13x + 6. Multiply the factors you identified. Then combine like terms and you're done. Start with:(2x + 3)(3x + 2) Let's test it, multiplying the terms using FOIL (first - outer - inner - last), obtaining:6x2 + 4x + 9x + 6 From here, we can add 4x and 9x together since they're like terms. We know our factors are correct because we get the equation we started with:6x2 + 13x + 6


Set up your mandoline. Insert the julienne blade. Wet the runway. Insert the potato into the hand guard.

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Food cut with a mandoline will fall beneath this kitchen tool, so thoroughly clean the surface below it before shredding potatoes. If your mandoline has foldable legs, extend these and then place it on a cutting board or countertop. Sturdiness is also very important when using a mandoline. A wobbly mandoline will make kitchen accidents more likely. Each model will have its own procedure for swapping in a new blade. This process, if done incorrectly, can be dangerous. Follow your mandoline’s directions carefully when inserting the julienne blade.  The blades on some mandolines will be directly accessible from the underside, while others may have a hinged part that opens to access the blade. Blades are generally grasped by their base, and then pulled out of or pushed into a slot found underneath the mandoline. Some mandolines may have only one blade. To adjust the cut of these, you’ll usually change a plastic attachment on top of the mandoline (sometimes called a runway attachment). The strings leading down to the blade are referred to as the “runway.” These strings can get gummed up by the stickiness of the starch in potatoes. To make sure the potatoes slide easily down the runway, sprinkle a few drops of water along this part of the mandoline. Halve the potato(es) with a knife. Put the uncut end of a potato into the hand guard. Place the flat, cut end of the potato at the top of the runway and slide it down the mandoline to shred the potato. Repeat this motion until you’ve finished shredding all your potatoes. The blades of mandolines are very sharp. They can easily cut off the tips of fingers or shave skin from knuckles. Unless you’re a professional, always use a hand guard when using a mandoline.


Set up your polycarbonate on saw horses or a work station. Mark the line that you’re going to cut with a marker. Attach a saw blade designed for cutting plastic to the saw. Put on your protective eyewear, earmuffs, and gloves. Line your saw’s base plate up with the straight edge. Pull the trigger on your saw to start cutting. Slide the saw all the way through the end of the cut.

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Place your plastic on your work station or saw horses. There will be some plastic dust from the cutting, so set your station up in a well-ventilated area, preferably outside. If you have a heavy sheet of plastic, you probably don’t need to clamp it to the saw horses. Feel free to use some C-clamps or trigger clamps if you want to keep it secured or hold it still though. You can move at a slight angle when cutting with a circular saw, but straight cuts are easier to achieve. Use a ruler or yardstick as a straight edge to mark your cutting line with a grease marker, permanent marker, or dry erase marker.  If you want to cut multiple lines, mark all of them before cutting your first line. If you plan on cutting curved shapes or angles, your best bet is to use a jigsaw. If your polycarbonate is thicker than 1 in (2.5 cm), you probably can’t score and snap it. Use a circular saw for these thicker plastics. Unscrew the nut in the center of your circular saw and set it aside. Put on a pair of thick gloves and carefully lift your current blade off of the bolt in the center and set it aside. Slide a new blade over the center that is designed for cutting plastic. Re-screw the center bolt to tighten it in place.  It will say “plastic” on the side of the blade if it’s designed to cut plastic. If you can, use a blade with 3-5 teeth for every 1 in (2.5 cm) on the saw. Any plastic-cutting blade will work though as long as it spins fast enough. It can be dangerous to cut polycarbonate with a circular saw if you don’t take the proper precautions. Wear protective goggles to protect your eyes from any shards of plastic. Throw on a pair of thick gloves and put on some noise-cancelling, protective earmuffs if you have sensitive hearing. The base plate of your saw is the flat, metal plate with the guide line on it. Line the guide line on the front of your circular saw with the line you plan on cutting. Then, slide your straight edge against the edge of the base plate. Hold the saw’s handle with your dominant hand and then move...


Set up your router. Plug a computer into one of the router's LAN ports. Open a web browser on your computer. Type in the router's IP address. Log in with the administrator account. Open the Wireless section of the router settings. Change the name of your network in the SSID field. Select WPA2-Personal as the Authentication or Security option. Create a strong password. Ensure the wireless network is enabled. Click the Save or Apply button. Wait while your router restarts. Connect to the wireless network on your wireless devices.

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When you're setting up a wireless router, you'll need to keep a few things in mind:  For easy troubleshooting, the router should usually be placed close to your modem. It should be located centrally to allow for maximum wireless coverage. You'll need to connect a computer to the router via Ethernet during the setup process. You'll be using your computer's web browser to configure the router's wireless network. You can use any web browser. You can typically find this printed on the bottom of the router, or in your router's documentation. If you can't find it, there are a couple things you can try:  Windows - Right-click the Network button in the System Tray → click Open Network and Sharing Center → click the Ethernet link → click Details → find the Default Gateway entry for your router's IP address. Mac - Click the Apple menu and select System Preferences → click Network → click your Ethernet connection → find the Router entry for your router's IP address. You'll be prompted for the login information for your router. The default login information varies depending on your router model, but the username is often "admin" and the password is often "admin," "password," or blank. You can look up your router model at https://portforward.com/router-password/ to find the default login information. The exact location and wording of this section varies from router to router. This may also be called "Network name." This is the name that appears in the list of available wireless networks. This is the most secure option currently available on most routers. Avoid WPA and WEP except when explicitly required by older, incompatible devices. This password will be required in order to connect to the network. The field may be labeled "Pre-Shared Key." Depending on the router, you may have to check a box or click a button at the top of the Wireless menu to enable the wireless network. This will save the changes to your router. It may take a minute for the router and network to come back online. Once the network is back up, it will...


Set up your sewing machine. Pin your fabric together so that the wrong sides are facing each other. Sew the fabric together using a 1/4 inch seam allowance, removing pins as you go. Trim the outside edge of the seam so you are left with 1/8 inch seam allowance. Iron your first seam.

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Consider the stitch size setting and thread tension you will need for sewing your particular fabric. If you are unsure, consult the directions for your sewing machine and adjust settings accordingly.  Also prepare your sewing machine by threading it with a thread that matches the color and strength of the material you are going to sew. This is also a good time to plug in your iron, so that it's already heated up when you need it. Putting the wrong sides together is the opposite of what is normally done when sewing a basic seam, so don't worry if it feels counterintuitive. A French seam requires you to stitch each seam twice, folding over your first line of stitches in order to make your finished seam face the right direction.   Be sure to pin all the way down the seam you are sewing. This will help to make sure your fabric doesn't slip out of line. It's a good idea to put pins in so they are perpendicular to your seam line, this way they won't stick you as you move the fabric along in the sewing machine and they will be easy to grab as you move your fabric in the sewing machine. To keep your seam allowance the same width as you sew your seam, keep an eye on the seam allowance guide that should be printed on the thread plate of your machine. Another option is to use a 1/4 inch presser foot, that way you can just make sure the outer edge of your fabric always lines up with the edge of the presser foot.  The seam allowance is the amount of fabric that is between the edge of the fabric and the seam.  Patterns usually give a specific amount of seam allowance to use, so that your finished project doesn't turn out too bit or too small.   Remember that the french seam will basically require about double the allowance you use on this first seam, so make sure when you are cutting out your pieces of fabric that you have figured that into your measurements. Feel free to increase the seam allowance on this first seam to 3/8 inch, if you are more comfortable sewing that width, but keep in mind that you will need to...


Set up your sewing or embroidery machine. Decide where to place the monogram. Place your machine's embroidery hoop onto your fabric. Set your hoop in place and start your machine. Detach the hoop from the machine and take your fabric out.

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Plug in your machine and place it somewhere that will allow you to enough space to move your project around freely. Program your machine so that it will produce the size and shape monogram you want.  In order to create a monogram with a sewing machine, it will need to be one that has an embroidery function. Many modern sewing machines have integrated advanced electronics that allow you to embroider preset designs, most of which include monogram motifs. Follow your machines instructions on how to choose which design you will use and how big it will be. Don't forget to thread your sewing machine with the color thread that you would like to use. The color should go nicely with the color of the fabric you are monogramming. Mark the center point of where your monogram will go with tailor's chalk or any fabric marking tool. It is best to make a vertical line and a horizontal line coming out of the center point of where your design will go.  This will allow you to line up your embroidery hoop in the correct position. Remember that you will need enough room around your design so that your machine's embroidery hoop will fit around it, with your design in the center. If you are worried about space, measure your hoop or place it on the fabric when deciding where your design will go. In many cases, the position of the design will be determined by where the hoop will fit. Make sure the center lines you drew on your fabric are lined up with the center marks on your machine's embroidery hoop. This will make sure that the machine embroiders your monogram in the right spot. You will need to place a piece of stabilizer under your fabric inside the hoop. The piece should be a bit larger than the hoop, so that it covers the whole underside of your fabric. Stabilizer supports your fabric while being sew by your machine, making it sturdy enough to withstand machine embroidery. Don't worry, once your monogram in sewn the stabilizer can easily be cut, washed, or torn away (depending on the type of stabilizer you use)! Your machine's...


Set up your steamer basket in a pot. Add the butternut squash and turn on the heat to medium-high. Reduce the heat and steam the squash for 10 to 12 minutes. Remove the steamed squash and serve it.

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Place a medium pot on the stove and put a standard steamer basket into it. Pour enough water to come about 1-inch (2.5 cm) up the sides of the pan. Arrange 1 pound (453 g) of cubed butternut squash in the steamer basket. Put a tight fitting lid on the pot and turn the heat on to medium-high. Bring the water in the pot to a boil. Turn the heat down to medium so the water bubbles steadily. Steam the squash until it's tender and heated throughout. This should take about 10 to 12 minutes. Turn off the heat and carefully lift the steamer basket up and out of the pot. You'll probably want to wear oven mitts when you handle the basket. Pour out the liquid in the bottom of the pot and season the steamed squash according to your tastes. Serve the squash while it's still hot. Refrigerate any leftover steamed squash in an airtight container in the refrigerator for three to five days.


Set up your timeline or goals. Outline your piece. Provide conflict, climax, and resolution in a creative piece. Give an analytical piece an introduction, evidence, analysis, and conclusion. Write your first draft. Edit Rewrite until you're ready to get an outside opinion.

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Your boss, teacher, or publisher may impose a deadline on you, or you may have to set one yourself. Use your deadline to set goals regarding what will be done by when. Budget time to write, revise, edit, get opinions, and incorporate feedback.  If you have an open deadline, you may aim for a goal like writing 5 pages a day or 5,000 words a day. If you have a specific deadline, like for a school essay, you may need to be more specific. For example, you may give yourself 3 weeks to research, a week to write, and a week to edit. Crafting a simple outline helps you stay on track and make sure you hit all your most important points. Your outline can be a skeleton of your most basic points, or you can fill it in with more facts and information.  Your outline should flow in the rough order that you want your piece. You can reorganize and rearrange as you write, but the point of the outline is to help your points flow together. Some writers prefer to work without an outline, and that’s totally fine. You should budget more time for revision and rewrites, though, since you don’t have a rough flow set before you start. Creative writing can vary greatly, but the underlying story usually has a set-up, a conflict, a climax, and a resolution in that order. Give shape to your story by first introducing your protagonist and their world. Then, bring in a person, thing, or event that shakes up that world. Have that shakeup reach an intense or exciting peak (climax), before bringing everything to a close with a well-thought-out resolution.  Resolutions don't have to mean a happy ending if that's not your style. Your resolution should simply bring all the strands of your plot together so that they make sense. This form works for many types of creative writing, not just fiction. Popular history books often follow this format, for example. Exactly how you organize an analytical piece depends on what your assignment and the standards for your field. At a minimum, though, analytical pieces generally introduce their topic and argument...


Set up your work area and safety gear. Spray the chrome bumper with self-etching primer. Spray the bumper with regular automotive primer. Sand the primer without touching the chrome surface. Wipe away any dust or residue from the primer.

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Paint fumes and aerosol sprays aren't very healthy to breathe in, so make sure you're working in a ventilated area. You can set up a ventilated spray booth and wear a respirator, or use a local exhaust ventilation system. Wearing gloves and eye protection are important safety precautions as well. The self-etching primer is what will allow the regular primer to grab hold of the metal. Cover the entire bumper with the self-etching primer, spraying 2-3 even coats. Allow each coat to dry completely before continuing. When spraying in between layers, self-etching primer should only take a couple of minutes to dry. Allow the last coat to sit for 3-4 hours before starting to sand. The regular primer will help to bond the paint to the chrome, strengthen the metal, and prevent rusting, so don’t just use the self-etching primer and not the regular one as well. Cover the entire surface evenly using 2-3 coats, and wait for each coat to dry before applying the next one. Depending on which type of primer you're using and what kind of paint you'll be using on top, the regular primer's drying time will vary. Check the instructions on the primer to see how long to let it sit. Once your bumper’s primer is completely dry, you can start sanding. The purpose of this sanding is to smooth out the surface of the primer while not getting to the chrome layer, so only use a very fine sandpaper (400- to 600-grit) for this step. If you do happen to sand through the primer and reach the chrome surface, re-apply the primer, let it dry, and sand again. Use a cloth to wipe off any dust particles left over from sanding. You don’t want any dirt left on your bumper, as this will affect how the paint sticks to the surface. To avoid accidentally removing the primer, be gentle when wiping. You can use water, lacquer thinner, or a wax and grease remover to wipe away the dust.


Set up your work station. Emboss your card with the embossing machine. Remove the embossed paper or cardstock.

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You will need an embossing machine, an embossing folder, and a piece of cardstock or watercolor paper with measurements of 4 ¼” x 5 ½” so that it fits the embossing folder. Place the embossing folder at the entrance of the embossing machine and crank it through the machine. The roller applies pressure to the paper or cardstock, which creates raised areas onto the paper from the embossing folder.  Get your cardstock situated. Place your card face side down over the stencil. Check to make sure you have both the stencil and the card aligned as you desire. For a deep impression of the stencil, pass the embossing folder through the machine two to three times. Take the embossing folder from the machine and lift it open to reveal the completed embossed paper. If you are using cardstock, consider adding more character by sanding the cardstock with sandpaper to reveal the cardstock’s lighter core. This can add a new design element to its appearance.


Set up your workspace before you begin. Use a sander to lightly roughen the surfaces. Apply a liquid deglosser as a quick alternative to sanding. Wipe away all of the sanding dust with a tack cloth. Clean all of the surfaces with trisodium phosphate (TSP) detergent.

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Place newspaper, a tarpaulin, or a drop cloth on the floor below your project. Ventilate the area by opening all windows, and turning on a fan if possible. If there are other objects close by that you cannot move out of the way, also cover these with a drop cloth to protect them Attach 150 grit sandpaper to the sander, and sand every area that you are planning to paint. Pay special attention to the edges and any detailing. Apply the deglosser with a paintbrush, and leave it to soak into the wood for 15 minutes. Then wipe it off with a cloth.  Make sure that you are working in a well-ventilated area. Liquid deglosser takes the shine off surfaces and makes them dull to prepare for painting. Clean away all loose wood, coating, and dust particles from your project. Check all of the joints and corners to make sure that you haven't missed a spot. If there is a big mess, you can always vacuum or sweep away the dust first before using a tack cloth. Dilute 4 ounces (110 g) of TSP powder into 2 gallons (7.6 L) of warm water. Use a sponge to wipe down all surfaces with the solution. Then use a clean rag to rinse all of the surfaces with fresh, clean water. Always wear gloves when using TSP to avoid irritating your skin.


Set you phone to install from unknown sources. Download Framaroot. Install Framaroot. Run Framaroot. Choose an exploit. Wait for the process to finish.

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The simplest way to root the Droid 2/X is to use the Framaroot One-Click Root program. In order to use this program, you will need to set your phone to be able to install programs from sources other than the Play Store. Press the Menu button on your phone while on the Home Screen. Select Settings and then click the Applications button. In the Applications menu, check the box next to “Unknown sources”. This will allow you to install programs not downloaded from the Play Store. Download the latest version of Framaroot directly to your phone. You can find the links in this XDA thread. The links are at the bottom of the first post. You can download the file to your computer and then copy it to your phone, or you can download it directly to your phone. Once the file has been downloaded or copied to your phone, open a File Explorer program. There are a variety of free file explorer programs available from the Play Store. Open the Framaroot APK file in the File Explorer to install it to your phone. Once Framaroot has been installed, click on the icon in your App Drawer to run the program. You will be presented with a drop down menu and a selection of exploits. Most users will want to install Superuser on their rooted phone, so make sure that it is selected in the dropdown menu. There will be a couple of exploit choices in Framaroot. Try each one to find one that works. Because systems are patched to fix exploits, what worked before may not work in the near future. There is no negative effect to trying an exploit that does not work. Try them all until you find one that works. You may have to try the exploit multiple times in order to get it to install. The one-click root process can be very quick. Your phone may reboot during the root. Verify that it worked by browsing for the Superuser app.


Set your blocks. Do your ritual. Get in your first position. Listen for the set command. Consider using a standing start.

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Find your assigned lane and use the length of your feet to gauge where to place the blocks. The tip of the unit should measure about a foot length from the starting line.The front pedal should be 2 to 2 1/4 foot lengths from the starting line. The back pedal should be 3 to 3 1/4 foot lengths from the line.  Your lead foot is your stronger foot. Go with whichever foot you'd use to kick a soccer ball. Since the standard track lap is 400m, a 200m dash is half a lap, so you'll be starting on a curve. Runners set themselves on diagonally staggered start lines to compensate for the differences in distance between the first and last lanes. For beginners, or if you’re just running a dash in gym class, it’s not necessary to use starting blocks. However, if you plan on running sprints competitively, you should get used to using them. Generally, the four commands are stand in your lanes, runners to your marks, set, and then the gun. Before hearing the signals to get set and go, you’ll be told to get in your lane. Now’s your chance to stretch, do your pre-race ritual, and get your mind set for a good race. Even the best get nervous just before the race, so now’s the time to get those jitters out.  Try bending over and touching your toes to stretch the back of your legs. Stretch your quads by lifting each leg backward from the knee while standing straight and reaching back to hold your foot. Shake out your arms and legs to get blood flowing. Breathe deeply, counting to four, holding for a four count, then exhaling as you count to four. You don't want to relax too much or make yourself sleepy, but should get your mind locked on the race itself as you fill your body with oxygen. Focus your vision by staring at the track, and get the crowd, other racers, and any other distractions out of your field of vision. Concentrate only on the race, and imagine how you'll burst from your starting blocks, speed down the track, and make a great time. When you’re told to get to your mark, get in your blocks, clear your mind, and prepare...


Set your freezer to just below freezing, around 30°F or -1°C. Fill an ice tray or mold with water and place it in the freezer.

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This should be the warmest setting on your freezer. If you don't want your whole freezer that warm, set it as low as you are willing and place ice tray on the top shelf. Leave it to freeze for 24 hours. The slow freeze should force out any gasses and impurities, leaving you with perfectly clear ice cubes.


Set your goals. Formulate a plan. Train regularly. Incorporate drills. Enjoy the benefits of cross training. Stretch your muscles. Learn about kinesiology. Study the movements of professionals. Build self-confidence. Be a good team member- show up on time and be prepared. Listen to and respect your coaches.

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Before you begin practicing to get better at the sport or sports of your choice, think about your goals. This can help you focus your training and give you something for which to work.  Your goals don't need to be anything lofty and they shouldn't be unattainable, which could make you quit. For example, if you are currently running a 10-minute mile, you could set a goal of getting down to 8 minute miles in six months. It can be easy to formulate a plan for training once you have a concrete goal. It's easy to stick to any goals you have to get better at a sport if you formulate a reasonable plan. Your plan should include everything from training sessions times to specific drills or goals you have for each session. Remember to keep it reasonable, though. Gradual improvement will keep you motivated and not fatigue you to the point that you quit.  You can formulate plans with the help of sports magazines, coaches, trainers, or even friends. There are plans to help people attain their goals available in the media and on the web. Consider sticking with sources such as fitness sites or the sites of fitness magazines. Make sure to schedule at least one full day of complete and two if you need it. For example, if you want to get better at breaststroke in swimming, you might formulate a plan that includes swimming four days a week and incorporates drills that will specifically develop the leg and arm muscles you use for this stroke. You cannot get better at sports if you do not train on a regular basis. Aim to train anywhere from 3-6 times per week, depending on your overall goals.  You don't have to train for hours on end to get better at a sport. Even twenty minutes of target exercise can improve your skills as long as you do this regularly. Most people can improve with at least 150 minutes of moderate activity per week or 75 minutes of vigorous activity.  If you are generally more active, you can do more than the recommended amount of exercise per day. In addition, if you are training for endurance events such as a...


Set your limit ahead of time. Leave debit and credit cards at home. Gamble with friends. Schedule an activity for after the gambling.

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Before you leave home, decide how much money you’re comfortable losing. It can be $100 or $1000, but be sure you won’t need this amount for any upcoming expenses. While you may not lose all of it, it’s possible that you will, so prepare yourself for that outcome. Withdraw all of the money you plan to spend in cash. Take your debit and credit cards out of your wallet and either leave them at home or in your car. You’ll be less tempted to exceed the limit you set for yourself if you don’t have an easy way to keep spending money. If you make gambling a social activity, you’re more likely to stop when you reach your limit. Tell your friends to cut you off when you run out of cash. Having someone to talk to while you play will also slow you down, which helps you hold on to some of your money. If you have plans scheduled for a couple hours after you start gambling, you’ll have a natural stopping point. Buy tickets to a show on the Strip if you’re in Vegas, make plans to go shopping, or leave the casino to have a nice dinner with friends.


Set your material firmly in the lathe spindle. Bore an initial hole with a center drill bit. Drill a pilot hole. Ream the hole. Retract the reamer while the lathe is still running.

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Since the lathe will spin your material instead of the drill bits, you want to make sure that the point you want to bore is at the center of the axis. As with a drill press, you still want to begin by using a center drill bit to begin your bore with more precision. If your lathe doesn’t have a coolant delivery system, ensure that you apply lathe coolant for every bore for cleaner finished products and to extend the life of your tools. Using a reamer on a lathe is still intended only to enlarge an existing hole, so you’ll need to first use a slightly smaller drill bit to create the hole. Similar to reaming with by other methods, you want to use a drill bit approximately 1/64” smaller than the reamer you’ll need to use. Once more, ensure that you’re applying plenty of cutting oil as you bore the hole. Once you have drilled the pilot hole and cleared any filings, you’re ready to ream the hole. Insert the reamer into the chuck of the tailstock (the portion that you move forward toward the lathe spindle), power on the lathe, and ream the hole. For high precision jobs, you can use a floating reamer holder here like you can for reaming in a drill press to correct for any minor misalignment. To ensure the smoothest ream possible, retract the tailstock while the lathe is still running by steadily pulling it straight out. Do not ever reverse direction of the spindle like you would to back out a drill bit.


Set your ohmmeter to the appropriate scale, if possible. Read the number on your ohmmeter to find the circuit’s resistance.

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Turn the dial in the center of your ohmmeter to change the scale of the reading, from tens, to hundreds, to thousands, and so on. For best results, turn your meter to the lowest scale that is higher than the resistance of what you’re measuring.  For example, if you expect the circuit you’re measuring to have a resistance of 1100 ohms, then your ohmmeter should be set to X100. This means, a reading of “11” on your ohmmeter would be equal to 1100 ohms. Note that you can only do this if you have an idea of what the resistance of what you’re measuring ought to be. This number, multiplied by the scale that your meter is set to, is equal to the circuit’s resistance in ohms. The lower the resistance, the easier it is for current to flow through the circuit. For example, if a circuit has 0 ohms, current would be able to flow through the circuit completely unimpeded.


Set your oven to 200°F. Brush the pork with liquid smoke. Roast the pork belly for 2-2.5 hours. Slice and cook as desired. Store the bacon. Finished.

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Though many believe using a smoker yields the best results, you can also use your oven at home as an alternative to a smoker. Start by setting your oven to 200°F. As the oven preheats, gently brush the entirety of both sides of the pork belly with liquid smoke. You want to place it with the fat side up on a rack over a roasting pan, and then roast the pork belly for 2-2.5 hours.  You can find liquid smoke online or even some varieties at your local grocery store. As with a smoker, check the pork belly with a meat thermometer to ensure that it reaches an internal temperature of 150°F. Some people choose to remove the rind created by the curing process. However, it’s completely optional. From there, you can slice and prepare the bacon to suit your favorite recipes. Wrap any of the bacon that you don’t use immediately in plastic. You can refrigerate the bacon for up to a week, or you can also freeze it for up to two months if you plan on saving it.


Set your page size. Set your font. Format your script elements.

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Screenplays are written on 8 ½” x 11” paper, typically 3-hole punched. Top and bottom margins are set between .5” and 1”. The left margin is set to 1.2”-1.6” and the right margin is set between .5” and 1”. Screenplays are written in Courier 12 point font. This is mainly because of timing. One script page in Courier 12 is roughly one minute of screen time. There are several different parts of the script that require specific formatting so that they conform to industry standards:   Scene Heading: This is also called a “slug line.” It sets the stage for the reader by describing the location. The scene heading is written in all caps. First, denote whether it is an interior or exterior scene by writing “INT.” or “EXT.” Then, follow that with the location, then the time of day. Never end a page with a scene heading, push it down to the next page.  Action: This is the descriptive text of the screenplay. Write in the present tense and an active voice. Keep the paragraphs short to hold the reader’s attention. A good paragraph size is 3-5 lines.  Character Name: Before dialogue starts, the character speaking is typed out in all caps and indented 3.5” from the left margin. The name can either be the character’s actual name, a description if the character is not named in the movie, or by occupation. If the character is speaking off screen, then “(O.S.)” is written next to the character name. If the character is narrating, “(V.O.)” for voice-over is written next to the name.  Dialogue: When a character is speaking, the dialogue is indented 2.5” from the left margin, and between 2-2.5” from the right. The dialogue goes directly beneath the character’s name.


Set your panel on a strong working table. Mark the cutting line with a sharpie. Drill 5⁄16 inch (0.79 cm) holes at the beginning and end of your cut line. Place a fine-toothed jigsaw into the first hole and pull it toward you. Use a mill file to clean the cuts.

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Secure your fiberglass to a sturdy, bolted down working table when making cuts. If you are sawing through the middle of a panel, lay your fiberglass down across two working tables. Use a dark colored marker or sharpie to draw a precise line over the area you intend to cut. Because curved lines are more difficult to follow than straight ones, make sure it is clear, bold, and easy to see. This will give your saw an area to enter and exit easily. Use a power drill to create clean holes in your fiberglass panel. For cuts you find particularly long, make holes along the line to increase your precision and give you specific areas to take a break. Slowly and steadily pull the saw along the cutting line, turning it as necessary. Do not force it: let the blade do all the work while you simply direct and keep it steady. Jigsaws are messy machines, so you may need to file down the new opening to remove flaws created by imprecise turns or accidental cuts. Using a fine-toothed mill file, push down on the edge of the cut fiberglass. Do not pull up on the file as doing so could damage the material's surface. You do not need to file much, just remove the outermost flaws.


Set your phone down with the camera facing upwards. Store your item in safe places in your bag or pocket. Invest in an iPhone case. Store your phone in clean areas.

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Each time you set your phone down, keep the camera lens facing upward. This will prevent the lens from coming into contact with contaminants from surfaces like counters and tables. When you store your phone in your pocket or bag, make sure you keep it away from hazardous objects. Ideally, your phone should be stored alone in your pocket or in its own compartment in your purse or bag. Keep it away from abrasive items, like keys, that could scratch the camera lens. An iPhone case can help protect both your iPhone's screen and camera lens from damage. The Otterbox is the strongest protective case, but the EyePatch case has a movable cover for the camera lens. If you use your camera frequently, the EyePatch may be worth the investment to protect your lens. The one downside to cases is that they can be a little pricey. You can see if you can find one secondhand on sites like eBay or Craigslist. When you set your phone down in your home, keep it in clean areas. Store your phone on clean surfaces to avoid contaminants that could dirty the camera lens. For instance, avoid setting your phone down in the bathroom or on a dirty kitchen counter.


Set your slow cooker to high heat. Allow the rice to cook for 2½-3 hours.

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The old saying that rice should be cooked low and slow is true. Since slow cookers already make use of low temperatures to heat food gradually, however, the highest heat setting will still be considerably cooler than a conventional rice cooker.  Make sure your slow cooker is properly hooked up and positioned, and that there are no objects nearby that could cause it to come unplugged accidentally. You can also cook your rice on a lower heat setting if you’re going to be out of the house all day. Keep in mind, though, that this will likely add 3-4 hours to your overall cook time. While your rice is cooking all you have to do is—nothing! Just put it in, turn it on, and walk away. It’s really that easy!  If it makes you feel better, you can come back periodically and take a look at your rice to see how it’s doing. Just avoid leaving the lid off of the slow cooker for too long, as this will allow precious moisture to escape. Don’t forget to set a timer so you’ll know when your rice is ready to come out of the slow cooker.


Set your spreader. Apply the product to your lawn. Overlap your passes to improve your coverage. Sweep or rake any excess product off of sidewalks and driveways.

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Weed and feed is best applied with either a rotary or a drop-type spreader. The exact settings you will need depend upon the brand of your product and the make of your spreader. Consult the packaging directions on your weed product to determine the correct settings for your spreader. If you do not already own a spreader, you can buy one at a home and garden store or online for under $30 USD. Once you have the product loaded and your spreader set, you can begin applying the product on your lawn. Get the best coverage by walking linear passes along the length of your lawn while disbursing the product from your spreader. Walking in straight lines ensures the most even coverage. To help ensure that all your lawn receives an even amount of the product, overlap your passes slightly. Walk on the edge of your last pass. You should be able to see the product on the lawn to help guide you. This helps prevent any untreated spots. Use a broom or a rake to push excess product from any sidewalks, driveways, or roads back into your yard. This keeps unused product from washing away in storm drains.


Set your starting position. Stand up and bring the bar up with you. Lower the bar.

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"Setting" here means creating tension in your body while you're in the starting position so you use your muscles when you pull the bar up. It's a bit like clenching your body; you don't want to be like a wet noodle at all because then you might pull a muscle or hurt a joint.  Always make sure your back is completely flat and straight. If there is any kind of bend in your back, you need to do some flexibility work before deadlifting. If you have someone record you in starting position, you'll be able to see whether your back is straight or not. Some people hold their head in line with their back, others look straight ahead, and some people look up at the ceiling. Raise your hips and shoulders at the same rate while maintaining a flat back. Keep your abs tight during the whole lift.  Begin the movement by pushing through your heels and straightening your knees. The bar should drag along your shins on the way up--that's why a lot of people who deadlift wear pants or knee-high socks, and if they don't, they often have bruises or scrapes to show for it. Come to a standing position with upright posture and your shoulders pulled back (don't let your shoulders cave forward, think of always pinching your shoulders back together and sticking your chest up and out). Don't bend backwards at all, just stand up straight. Engage (squeeze) your hamstrings and glutes to pull the bar up. Keeping your back straight, return the bar to the starting position in a controlled manner. Push your butt out as if you are going to sit down in a chair. Do not arch your back or curl your tailbone under. Release the weight after it is on the ground.


Set your story aside for at least a day before revising it. Read your story aloud to listen for areas that need improvement. Get feedback from other writers or people who read often. Eliminate anything that doesn’t reveal character details or advance the plot.

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It’s difficult to revise your story right away because you won’t be able to notice your errors and plot holes yet. Leave it alone for a day or longer so that you can look at it with fresh eyes.  Printing out your story may help you see it from a different perspective, so you might try that when you go back to revise it. Setting your work aside for a little while is a good move, but don't set it aside for so long that you lose interest in it. When you read your story aloud, you get a different perspective on it. This will help you identify passages that don’t flow well or sentences that sound choppy. Read your story to yourself and make notes where you need to revise it. You can also read your story to other people and ask them for advice. When you’re ready, show your story to a fellow writer, instructor, classmate, or friend. If you can, take it to a writing critique or workshop. Ask your readers to provide their honest feedback so you can improve your story.  The people closest to you, like your parents or best friend, may not provide the best feedback because they care about your feelings too much. However, you may be able to find a writing critique group on Meetup.com or at your local library. For feedback to be helpful, you have to be receptive to it. If you think you've written the most perfect story in the world, then you won't actually hear a word anyone says. Make sure you're giving your story to the right readers. If you're writing science fiction but have handed your story to your writer friend who enjoys literary fiction, you may not get the best feedback. This may mean cutting passages that you think are well-written. However, your reader is only interested in details that are important for the story. As you revise your work, make sure every sentence you save shows something about your character or pushes the plot forward. Cut any sentence that doesn’t. For instance, let’s say there’s a passage where Esther sees a girl in the hospital who reminds her of her sister. While this detail might seem...


Set your tuner to “A. Play the A note. Play an F#. Move on to other notes. Play scales.

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” If you have a designated rehearsal space, or don’t mind lugging an extra piece of equipment around, purchase a standalone digital tuner. Otherwise, download a tuning app to your smartphone. Once you are ready to test your sax, select concert note A to begin tuning. If your tuner or app doesn’t have any presets for specific notes, tune it to to a frequency of 440 hertz (Hz) for concert A.  If possible, purchase or download a tuner specifically for saxophones. Most others are meant for the piano or guitar. Because those instruments are in a different key than saxophones, a standard tuner may read your sax’s notes incorrectly. For example, an A note played on an alto or baritone sax may read as a C on your tuner, while the same note played on a tenor or soprano may read as a G.  Tuning apps for saxophones include Cleartune (iPad) and Easy Saxophone (Android). Watch the needle on the tuner. Aim to make it stay exactly in the middle of the display for as long as you sustain the note. If the needle indicates that your note is either too flat or sharp by falling to the left or right, adjust your mouthpiece accordingly, roughly one millimeter at a time, and try again. Repeat as needed.  If your note is too sharp, pull your mouthpiece out along the neck cork. If your note is too flat, push your mouthpiece farther in along the neck cork. Once your A note is in tune, test your F# (F sharp). These two notes are the easiest to tune on the saxophone. Start off with this easy pair before moving on to ones that may need more coaxing. Use the same technique of adjusting your mouthpiece to correct sharpness and flatness.  A tuner meant for piano or guitar may read your F# as an A if you are playing an alto or baritone, while an F# on a tenor or saxophone may read as an E. F# = 370 hertz (Hz). Once you have a handle on A and F#, continue the process with other notes. Alter your embouchure (the way you apply your mouth to the mouthpiece) to play notes sharper or flatter. Add more pressure to make a note flatter. Loosen your...


Set your work aside for a while before revising/editing. Read your draft out loud. Make sure everything is resolved by the end. Ask a trusted friend or colleague to read through your manuscript. Find areas that need expansion and/or clarification. Cut anything that's not necessary.

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Whenever you need to edit or revise any piece of writing, it's best to let it sit in a drawer or on your desktop for a short while first. Jumping right into the editing and/or revision stage can make it much more difficult to polish your piece of writing into a masterpiece, in part because you're still very attached to the work you've done and the details are still very clear in your head (meaning you're not approaching it like a reader would).  Give yourself anywhere from a few days to a few weeks after finishing the project before you attempt to revise/edit your work. If you try to edit/revise right away, you'll be less likely to notice issues within the writing (typos/errors, as well as things that aren't clear or don't make sense), and you'll have a harder time cutting things that aren't necessary. Keep in mind that revising and editing your work is an essential part of the writing process. Do not skip over this step or spend less time on it than the other steps. Your brain is hardwired to connect patterns without even thinking about whether anything is missing. It's why you're able to read short notes upside down, for example, without having to turn the page right-side up. The same is true of typos and missing words in a sentence: you are so familiar with the concept you're writing about (and subsequently reading about) that you might not even notice that you left out some vital part.  Read your draft slowly out loud to yourself. Take your time and circle, highlight, or otherwise mark anything that is incorrect or incomplete. Don't make revisions as you read, though, or you could lose your place many times. As you read, make sure you're only reading what you've written on the page, word for word. In addition to typos and incomplete thoughts, look for any sentences that trip you up or confuse you as you read aloud. These sentences should also be marked for revision. Once you've gotten through the whole thing (or a good chunk of it, like an entire chapter), go through and make the necessary changes....


Set yourself up to feel good. Remember they’re just like you. Smile and make eye contact. Give yourself a pep talk.

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Sometimes, it helps to get your confidence up before approaching your crush at all. Do whatever you need to do to make yourself feel good– wear a new t-shirt, spend a little extra time doing your hair, or pump yourself up with your favorite song. Embrace those days when you just feel great about yourself, and strike up a conversation then. If you feel good, you’ll exude that confidence.  Wearing a lucky shirt, standing up straight, and visualizing a great conversation in your head are all additional ways to give yourself that boost of confidence you need. If doesn’t matter what you do to feel good, just do it! No matter how cute, smart, funny, or cool your crush seems, they are a person just like you. They feel awkward sometimes, they want to be liked, and they want to make friends just like you do. Try not to put them on a pedestal, because it will only make talking to them even more intimidating. For all you know, they’ve been admiring you from afar this whole time. You owe it to both of you to try. No matter how anxious or shy you may feel on the inside, it’s important to look like you’re calm, cool, and collected. Flash them a big smile and try to look at them when you speak. Show them that you’re sure of yourself, and they will automatically be impressed.  When you speak to your crush, make sure that you're facing them, speak loud enough to be understood, and use a friendly tone. You can also lean towards them to better hear what they're saying. If you look terrified, they’ll most likely feel a bit awkward. Camouflage your nervousness and summon up all of your confidence. You are a smart, capable, and charming person. Think of your best qualities, and all the wonderful things you have to offer the people around you. Love and appreciate your strengths, and that's all that matters. Your crush will either see that and be grateful to speak with you, or they will be silly and it's their loss. Go forth and conquer! Also, try to calm yourself down right before you talk to your crush. Whether you listen to some...


Set-up your classroom Create a lesson plan Establish a daily routine. Maintain good relationships with your coworkers.

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. A preschool classroom needs to be engaging, organized, fun, and safe. Divide the classroom into centers, and organize the children by groups. This way the children can rotate between centers. You can paste pictures, letters, and numbers on the walls. Also, post signs denoting the name of each center.  Some examples of classroom centers are writing, math, science, arts and crafts, reading, building, and free playing centers. Try to avoid putting active centers, like arts and crafts, next to more quiet centers, like reading centers.  Also, label the groups by colors so that the children can easily remember which group they belong to. . Keep your lesson plans simple and structured. They should cater to the age group you are teaching. Effective preschool lesson plans are ones that involve the children in various, fun activities. For example, familiarize the children with the ABC’s by asking them to act out the animal the letter starts with. If it is the letter C, ask children to act or imitate a cat. Each state has their own guidelines and requirements for creating a preschool curriculum. You can find these guidelines in your state's Department of Education website. However, the basic requirements are that you create a curriculum that provides age-appropriate enrichment, development, and proficiency. Routines help children feel safe and comfortable. They will know what to expect every day, which provides a sense of comfort. A routine will also help you to be organized and stay on task. Therefore, establish a morning routine, as well as an afternoon routine. The time you spend on one activity might change from one day to the next, but the order of the activities and what you do during the activity should stay the same.  For example, the morning could consist of circle time and story time, while the afternoon consists of lunch, nap time, and centers. Each day can have a different routine, but try to keep it minimal. For example, three different routines for the whole week. Maintain good relationships with your...


Setting the elements in your array. Use the standard library static method: Run the program.

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For a two-dimensional array, you will have both rows and columns that need to be printed out. Enter for ( i = 0; i < rows; i++) for the rows and for ( j = 0; j < columns; j++) for the columns. System.out.print(aryNumbers[i][j] + " " ); followed by System.out.println( "" ); to print arrays within arrays and multidimensional arrays as a line. Different compilers have different ways to accomplish this task. You may be able to go to "File" and then "Run." You may also have the option to simply click the "Run" icon in your toolbar. Your elements will be printed out in a line or column in the lower window of Java.


Settle on a draw weight that matches your upper body strength. Take your draw length into account. Consider how you’ll be using the bow. Choose a weight that’s comfortable.

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The draw weight of the bow should be determined by your level of upper body strength. If the draw feels too heavy, or it becomes difficult to continue drawing the bow after multiple shots, the tension may be too high. An excessively heavy draw weight can wear you out and throw off your shot.  Light draw weights are more manageable, but sacrifice force and velocity when propelling the arrow.  A heavier draw weight doesn’t always equal a better shot. The force and trajectory can depend just as much on the type of arrow you’re using. Draw length refers to the distance it takes to pull the bowstring all the way back. The longer the draw length, the more tension that is placed on the bow and the heavier the weight of the bowstring. Make sure your bow is properly calibrated to suit your body type and measurements. If need be, take the bow to a specialist to have it modified.  The draw length of the bow should correspond directly to your arm span. Altering the bow’s draw length is more complicated, and may have to be done by a professional. Are you taking your bow hunting, using it for a sport competition or just practicing recreationally? Hunters may favor a heavier pull to ensure that their arrows have penetrating power. Competition archers, on the other hand, should aim to use a weight that lets them shoot over and over again without causing fatigue.  Competition archers shoot more frequently and might get tired using a heavier draw weight. Bows with different specifications and mechanical advantages are made for different kinds of sportsmen. Above all, the draw weight you decide on should feel natural in your hands. Don’t let your ego tempt you into using too heavy a bow or specifications that don’t fit your individual style. Adjust your bow until it is balanced enough to draw, hold and release without difficulty. Always go with what feels best. It may take a little time to figure out, but in the end your bow will be better calibrated to your unique proportions, and you’ll be more accurate as a result.


Sew a straight line at the top of the markings all the way down.

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Follow the pins, taking them out as you go.  Cut off the excess fabric and fold the cuff back up. As you fold it back up, make sure the raw edges of the seam are opened--if they're closed, they'll get bulky and bumpy. Pin the cuff to the pant leg. Adjust your sewing machine so the needle leans to the left and use the zipper foot instead. You want to get as close as possible to the seam. Hold open the inner seam and sew all the way around the pant leg as close as possible to the original seam. Try them on after this step -- you may find that they're too long or too short and you can go back to adjust. If there's too much fabric on the end, zigzag stitch and cut off the excess or use a serger. Iron the leg of your jeans. Use a high heat setting and flip the pants so that the inside excess fabric is pointing upwards (toward the crotch). Go over this area several times.


Sew across the corners to make the ears. Gather around the neck. Decorate your bear. Hug your new teddy bear!

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Sew a rounded edge across the corners to connect the two layers and make the edges stick out like ears. To make them stick out a bit close your fingers at the base of the ears and pull them lightly before and after stitching. You can also do a gather stitch at the base of the ears to help them to stick out more. To knit a gather stitch you would knit a decrease across the length of the ear with a smaller needle size than you have been using. Do a gather stitch around the neck where you placed the marker for the neck. Again, you would knit a decrease at this location to bring the neck in and differentiate the head and body. Embroider the ears and face of use buttons for the eyes. You can also tie a ribbon around the neck of the teddy bear. You should also remove the markers you used earlier. Enjoy your stuffed teddy bear or give it to a friend.


Sew the 2 4-yard (3.7-m) strips together for the bottom tier. Fold, pin, and sew a 1-inch (2.5-cm) ribbon over the bottom hem, if desired. Sew the ends of the bottom tier to make a ring. Sew the ends of the middle tier together to make another ring. Hem the narrow edges of the final fabric strip.

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Take 2 of the 4-yard (3.7-m) strips. Sew the narrow ends together using a 1/2-inch (1.3-cm) seam allowance and a straight stitch. Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch for a nicer touch.  When you are done, you'll have a strip that is about 8 yards (7.3 m) long. Match the thread color to the fabric as closely as possible. Backstitch when you start and finish sewing to keep the thread from unraveling. Cut an 8-yard (7.3-m) length of 1-inch (2.5-cm) wide satin ribbon. Fold the ribbon over the bottom edge of your fabric strip and secure it with pins. Sew the ribbon to the strip as close to the edge as possible. Use a thread color that matches the ribbon and a straight stitch. You'll have a 1/2-inch (1.3-cm) ribbon hem when you are done.  Remember to remove the pins and to backstitch. For a nicer look, use a ribbon color that matches the fabric. This step is not absolutely necessary, but it will give your petticoat a nicer finish and prevent it from the hem feeling scratchy against your legs. Fold the 8-yard (7.3-m) strip in half. Make sure that the right sides are facing in and the seams are facing out. Sew across the narrow ends using a 1/2-inch (1.3-cm) seam allowance and a straight stitch. Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch. Take the 4-yard (3.7-m) strip and bring the narrow ends together to form a ring. Sew across them with a straight stitch and a 1/2-inch (1.3-cm) seam allowance. Go over the raw edge using a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch. This is just like you sewed the bottom tier except that you are not hemming the bottom edge. Fold both of the narrow ends down by 1/4-inch (0.64-cm), then sew them down using a straight stitch. This will give the opening of your petticoat more structure. Alternatively, hem the narrow edges with 1-inch (2.5-cm) wide ribbon, just like you did for the hem of the bottom tier.


Sew the binding to the bag approximately 1” below the top of the bag. Fold the binding over the top of the bag and pin inside the bag, securing it to the lining. Fold the handle fabric in half lengthwise and secure the ends with pins. Cut the Pellon to 8” x 18. Finished.

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The binding should be sewn not only onto the bag but also the lining. Hand stitch the binding into place. Sew the fabric handle and then pin one end inside the bag, just below the binding fabric.     Wrap the other end around so that it joins the original end inside the bag and pin it in order to secure it to the binding.     Sew the fabric handle in place. Add any jewels or adornments you’d like to include to personalize the bag.    ”  The Pellon will line the inside of the bag, provide sturdiness and an area to hold a plastic bag.  Roll Pellon into a circle and sew the edges so it creates a cylinder shape.  Consider using a sewing machine for a quick stitch or you can hand sew.     Slide Pellon into the bag and sew it into the lower area of the bag.  A few stitches will help secure the Pellon in place. Allow some room between the binding and the Pellon so that a plastic bag can be dropped into the bag and fit securely around the Pellon inside the bag.


Sew the shoulder seams closed. Leave the sides of your garment’s body piece open. Identify the center of your sleeve. Match up the edges of the armhole opening and sleeve. Pin the sleeve to the armhole opening. Sew along the edges. Repeat the identifying the center point, matching, pinning, and sewing steps for the other sleeve. Turn the garment inside out and line up the edges. Pin the edges of the sides of the body piece and the bottom of the sleeves. Sew along the bottom edges of the sleeve and along the sides of the shirt body.

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The shoulder seams on your body piece need to be closed before you can sew a sleeve into place. Line up the correct sides of your body pieces so that the shoulder seams are even with each other. Then, pin the edges to secure them and sew along each of the pinned areas. Use your sewing machine to sew a straight stitch about 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) from the raw edges of the fabric. Do not sew past the shoulder areas. Avoid sewing along the neckline or along the armhole openings. Otherwise, your garment will not function properly. These are the areas that run down the sides of your abdomen on the body piece. Leaving the sides open is necessary for the flat sewing method, so do not sew these areas yet. Before pinning and sewing your sleeve to the body piece, it is helpful to identify the central point of the shoulder. This will help to ensure an even fit between your sleeve and shoulder point. Fold your sleeve in half lengthwise and use a piece of chalk to mark the center point (the folded area) of the sleeve at the shoulder. Open up your body piece so that the 2 pieces are spread out and the correct sides of the fabric pieces are facing up. Then, take 1 of your sleeves and turn it so that the correct side of the fabric is facing down towards the body piece. Line up the edges of the shoulder part of your sleeve with the shoulder of your body piece. Pin along the edges of the sleeve’s shoulder area and armhole opening to secure them together. Make sure that the correct side of the sleeve’s fabric is facing the correct side of the body piece’s fabric. To ensure that the sleeve will be evenly distributed on the armhole opening, start pinning from the center of the shoulder. Identify the central point of your shoulder piece and pin this point to the shoulder seam on your body piece. Then, pin the rest of the sleeve to the armhole opening one side at a time. After you have pinned the sleeve in place, take your pieces to the sewing machine and use your sewing machine to sew a straight stitch along the raw edges of the...


Sex your tetras. Place adult tetras into the tank. Adjust conditions if your neon tetras are not breeding. Remove the adult tetras from the tank. Wait for the baby tetras to hatch.

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It is not absolutely necessary to sex your tetras before you begin breeding because you can put several into the tank together and breeding should occur.  However, if you want to sex your tetras, male and female tetras have some distinct differences that can help you tell them apart.  Female tetras tend to be wider and fatter than male tetras. Some breeders also claim that male tetras have a straight stripe and females have a crooked stripe. Evening is the best time to introduce your adult tetras into the tank, so plan to put your adult tetras into the tank after the sun has set. Keep in mind that the tetras that you use for breeding will have to be at least 12 weeks old or breeding may not be possible. Allow the fish to stay in the tank for a day or two. Tetras should spawn after being kept in the tank for about one to two days. If breeding is not happening, then check the pH and temperature of the water, soften the water a bit more, and adjust the lighting as needed. It may take some time and experimenting to get the conditions just right for your neon tetras to breed. Changing the water softness seems to trigger spawning because it mimics rainfall. Try adding a large amount of soft water to the tank if your neon tetras are not spawning after a few days. Fish eggs are small and hard to see because of their translucent color, but you may be able to see them in the gravel or on plants in your breeding tank. As soon as you notice eggs in the tank, make sure that you remove the adult tetras from the tank or they may eat the eggs. There may be between 60 and 130 eggs, but not all of them will hatch. After the eggs are lain, they will take about 24 hours to hatch. You can expect about 40 to 50 baby tetras to hatch from the eggs. The baby tetras will look like small splinters of glass swimming around the tank.


Shake all of the ingredients except the ice. Add ice and shake a second time. Strain the drink into a glass. Garnish.

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Shake 1.5 oz. (45 ml.) of whiskey, 0.75 oz. (22 ml.) of lemon juice, 0.5 oz. (15 ml.) of simple syrup, one splash of orange liqueur, and one egg white together in a cocktail shaker. Shake thoroughly, until the egg white has broken up into froth; the cocktail will be very unpleasant if it still contains globs of egg white. When properly shaken, the egg white will make the cocktail much smoother on the mouth, and soften the lemon flavor a little.  Shaking the ingredients together without the ice first may help emulsify the egg white, distributing it evenly throughout the drink. You can skip this step and just shake everything once, but shake extra vigorously to make up for it. There is a tiny risk of salmonella infection from raw egg white. If you are concerned about this, or if you are serving the drink to an elderly or immune-compromised person, use "pasteurized shell" eggs. Now, place a handful of ice into the cocktail shaker and shake the ingredients again for another ten seconds. The ice will help cool the ingredients. Pour into a rocks glass or a short-stemmed sour glass. The small mouths on these glasses help maintain the distinctive foamy head from the egg white. Optionally, add ice to the glass first. Since this version contains orange liqueur, an orange twist is a thematic garnish. Enjoy the drink immediately.


Shake hands with everyone you meet. Make small talk with people you don't know. Have interesting things prepared to talk about. Try new things. Make new friends Smile! Stick to silly humor rather than deadpan or sarcastic humor.

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Anytime you meet someone new (or even when you greet someone you have met before), it is a positive and bubbly gesture to shake hands. Make you sure are giving a nice firm and confident handshake. Be sure to make eye contact while you do so!  Practice your handshake at home with friends to be sure you use the right amount of pressure and maintain steady eye contact. Repeating the person's name as you shake his or her hand is also a good strategy to seem bubbly. For example, when you meet someone new, say their name back to them once or twice before you introduce yourself, such as by saying, "Hi Brian. I'm Shirley. It's nice to meet you Brian!" Chat up your waiter or barista. Say hello to people on the street! Compliment people on the train. Converse with people in the coffee shop or in your class. Remember that you are an important player in the world. Interact with others as much as possible, and let your bright personality shine.  When you feel at a loss for things to say, think of a compliment. Tell someone you like their sweater, then as a follow up, ask them where they bought it. Tell someone they have a nice voice. Being bubbly means you can talk to anyone and always have something to talk about. Find ways to talk to the people around you. Whether this means people at school, at work, or just people you run into out in the world, try to have a few interesting pieces of small talk ready to go.  Practice a few funny stories from your life. Listen to podcasts (such as This American Life) to hear interesting conversation points. Ask questions! Let the other people do the talking for you. If you find yourself at a party, try to talk to every person there for at least a little bit. To cultivate a bubbly and charismatic personality, you must come off as passionate and interesting. One way to accomplish both of these things is to regularly try something new! When you seek out new experiences you stoke your passion for life, and at the same time, you generate lots of interesting things to talk about.  Learn a...


Shake hands with the interviewer and exchange pleasantries. Send a thank-you letter to your interviewer and/or liaison. Follow up with the interviewer at the appropriate time.

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Try to invest some feeling into the handshake and pleasantries, even if you think you bombed the interview. The interviewer should give you a time frame for when to expect to get a callback, if applicable.  Hold your head high and keep your cool. Your emotions are probably teetering at the highest of highs or the lowest of lows, but try to stay measured. Project a cool confidence — not cockiness — and walk out of the interview with your head held high. If the interviewer does not tell you when they will contact you if you're a good fit for the position, it's appropriate to ask, "When can I expect to hear back from you about the position?" This will prove important later on. Now is a good time to thank the person you interviewed with, even if it's just a formality. You can say something like:   "Dear [interviewer's name], Thank you for the opportunity to discuss my qualifications with you. I remain very impressed by [interviewer's company], and invite you to contact me if you have any further questions. I look forward to hearing from you about this position."  If you missed any important points in your interview you wanted to stress, you may include one or two in the thank-you letter. Keep the points brief, and tie them into a discussion point that you or the interviewer made during the interview. If you received any help in getting the interview, follow up with appropriate parts of your network. Inform them that you received an interview, are grateful they helped you in your career search, and would be eager to help them in the future. You should have received some information about when you could expect to hear back from the employer. The standard time is about two weeks, but it can depend. If you've waited past the designated callback date — or the callback date wasn't set and it's been two weeks — follow up with the interviewer in a short email. You can say something like:   "Dear [interviewer's name], I interviewed at your company [at such and such date], and am still interested in the position if it...


Shake it out. Remove the object with tweezers. Apply oils to kill insects. Prevent future incidents.

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Your first recourse should be to tilt your head downward and use gravity to help get the object out. Tilt your head to the side so that the ear with the blockage is facing the ground. Sometimes, this will be enough to let the object drop out.  To alter the shape of the ear canal, pull on the pinna, the outermost part of the ear (not the lobe, but the circle that begins at the top of the ear and stretches down to the lobe). Wiggling this can dislodge the object, after which, gravity will do the rest.  Do not strike or hit the side of the head. You can gently shake it, but striking the head could cause further damage. You should only use this method if part of the object is sticking out and you can easily remove it with a pair of tweezers. Do not reach into the ear canal with tweezers. It is not a good idea to try this with anything stuck in a child's ears. See your pediatrician or doctor instead.  Clean the tweezers before hand with warm water and antibacterial soap. Foreign objects can sometimes cause perforated eardrums or bleeding and tearing inside the ear canal. This makes your ear extra susceptible to infection. Grasp the object with the tweezers and pull. Be gentle and go slowly in order to prevent the object from breaking before removal.  Do not use this method to remove the object if it is so deep that you cannot see the tip of  the tweezers while trying to remove it. Also, do not try this if the person in question will not be still. In such instances, it is preferable that you go to the doctor. If there is an insect in your ear, it can cause a great deal of discomfort by flying around and buzzing. There's also a risk of getting stung. Killing the insect can make removal easier.  Never try to remove an insect with your fingers as it may sting. Tilt your head to the side so the affected ear is pointing upwards towards the ceiling or sky. For an adult, pull the earlobe backward and upward. For a child, pull it backward and downward.  Mineral oil, olive oil, or baby oil works best. Mineral oil is...


Shake off any dirt on your shoes. Remove stubborn dirt clumps on the soles with a dry, clean toothbrush. Wipe down your shoes with laundry detergent and warm water. Rinse the cloth in warm water and wipe the detergent off your shoes. Let your shoes air dry overnight.

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Do it outside so dirt doesn’t get all over your floor. Hit the soles of your shoes together a few times to help dislodge caked-on dirt and grime. Take the toothbrush and gently brush it back and forth over any dirt spots. Don’t use the toothbrush on the upper fabric portion of your shoes or you could damage them. Rinse off the toothbrush when you’re finished and store it in a plastic bag so you have it for the next time you clean your shoes. Add 1 drop of detergent to a bowl of warm water and dip a cloth in the mixture. Clean the soles and the upper sections of your shoes using the cloth. Rub the cloth back and forth over any dirt spots until they fade away. Use a clear laundry detergent if your shoes are white. Go over the soles and upper sections of your shoes so there’s no detergent left on them. You should wipe off all of the suds on your shoes. It's important you get all the detergent off so it doesn't dry on your shoes and damage them. Set your shoes somewhere inside so they dry out at room temperature. Don’t use a heater to speed up the process or you could damage your shoes.