The Liverpool Standard, and General Advertiser.
Liverpool, Merseyside, England, 1854-07-04 00:00:00

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period, especia
e time been so si

kded flounces are much patronised tin
• by their novelty, to ham

style of fabric by a written deseription, we will suppose st
a robe of grey taffetas, with nine flounces extending
from the top of the skirt. The first, commencing at the
waist, of so pale a grey as to appeir more like a pefirl:grey;
shot with whit-

Jae, and so on i -each one progressively
creasing in depth of colour until the lower one is of a
dark iron-grey. This style of robe,.
which
has not inaptly
been compared to moonlight, and the arrangement of the
shades we have named, will enable our fair readers to
judge of the effect produced by other combinations of
colour. As, for instance, lilac shaded to violet, orfeuilles
de rose, graduated to cerise, which are both so becoming
for full-dress. When they are made with low bodies, the
berthe and short sleeves are trimmed with very narrow
frills, delicately shaded to correspond with the flounces on
the skirt. For the Basques and high bodies, to the trim-
ming
which are introducedb as qu e , and en
are added small bows of ribbon of the several shades
tthheeirroatea.tinThg
ee3n,.dasrefillplacnned
tween each be
sr- -

paces w. ..n separate one from the iither. ' Five o.
small bows are also ichelonne'es.in the depth of the sle
The form which is best suited_ to this style, is the page sleeve, because these small trinnnings echelonnies in t,
whole depth, impart a coquette elegance.
We must not omit, in our list-of-fashionable materials,
the taffetas with graduated plaid flounces. A. robe in
this article of a fawn colour, with three deep flounces ; on
them are worked checks of dark blue, pale blue, and
black, with an edging of fine mlaite lines forming a check
of rather large dimensions below, and gradually decreasing
upwards. The basques and.the bottoms of the sleeves are
trimmed in the same style. With a pearl-grey taffeta:,
the checks or plaids on the flounces are composed of
cerise, black and grey.
Barge is much in vogue, and forms a medium in the
hands of our principal artistes for a variety of elegant
robes, some with volants de-grad(s. A very light lilac
bari,ge, graduating to the darkest shade of violot, or a
robe in various shades of green. On the edge of each of
the five flounces which covered the skirt, was a narrow
ruche of taffetas ribbon of the same shade as the flounce
itself. This may be replaced by one of gaze satinee,::it has,
indeed, a more elegant appearance. The corsage was
gathered, and the gatherings diminished in the basque,
also gathered, which produced the effect of beinga con-
tinuation of those on the body. On the barque was a
ruche to match that on the flounces, and also, forming an
edging to the front of the body, which was open to the
waist and attached by this bow of ribbon, the long ends
of which resembled a waist-belt. The sleeves formed by
three large bouillanne-es,
separated from each other- by a
ruche of ribbon, which terminated on the outside of the
arm by a bow and floating ends.
A robe in Pekin, of a steel grey, trimmed with three
flounces a disposition, is an effective dress. Three:white
bands, alternate with three of steel grey, produce the
effect of so many ribbons. On the white is worked a
garland of roses interspersed with blue clematis ; and on
the edge of each flounce is a small fringe, grey and: white
mixed. The body with Basques, each of which istrim-
med round with a narrow white border, embroidered
similar to that on the flounces.
Embroidered muslin.s are much in vogue at the present
time.; and certainly, from the exquisite character of the
various designs chosen for this purpose, and the aerial
appearance of the dress when made up with its several
accompaniments, we can readily appreciate the correctness.
of this taste. Among the patterns selected, we may
notice the everlasting pea, the ear of barley, wheat, and
many others, which must remind the mammas of the day
of their former conquests, and which now serve to adorn
the figures of the rising generation.. These dresses are
generally made with two or three flounces, edged with a
wide hem, in which is inserted a lilac, pink, or straw-
coloured ribbon. At the head of each flounce is a bouil-
lonnie of muslin, through which the same coloured ribbon
is:also passed ; or a ruche of the same muslin festooned
on both sides, or edged with a narrow Valenciennes lace.
With the same style of ruche, we have also seen some
flounces with two narrow Valenciennes edgings on the
hem—one at the top and the other on the edge. The
edge of the corsage (which is open on the chest), the
sleeves, and the basquines, are trimmed with lace. and
ribbons to match those on the skirt.
Among the most distingues little manteaur for the
seaside, those in the Telma form, but very short, appear
to be the favourite. They are made of plain or mixture
ladies' cloths, lined with taffetas, and trimmed with
stripes of shaded plush, placed round the cloak, the neck,
and the openings for the arms.
A white cachemire shawl, trimmed with lace, pleased
us very much by the elegance of the tout ensemble. It
was square; round it a beautiful embroidered pattern, au
passe, in ruby watered silk; and on the edges a deep
black lace. Although at the first glance there was a
something remarkable in the appearance of this shawl, it
was decidedly conceived in good taste, and requires to be
worn by a lady equal to her position in society.
For very warm weather, and to be worn in the country,
light-texture shawls in grenadine, with figured border or
bayaare stripes, are very pretty.
There are sometimes peculiarities in fashion, which
succeed or fail in being established according to the manner
in which they are introduced. In this category we may
place two styles of bonnet, which owe their position as
much to the prestige of the few ladies who have displayed
them, as to the well-known taste of the house from which
they emanated. One, of paille d' Italie of the most per-
fect fineness, jthe crown of rather larger dimensions than
usual, had somewhat the appearance of Marie-Stuart
style; it was very much off the cheeks, slightly inclined
on the forehead, and trimmed on each side of the front
with a bow of orange ribbon, fringed with black, which,
although three-quarters of an inch deep on each side of
the ribbon, was four inches deep at the ends. It Wa6
composed of an exquisitely delicate and light plume, which
waved like a number of small feathers suspended at the
extremity of these ribbons. Inside the front was a ruche
of orange ribbons, with small black feather fringe ; it
extended round the curtain. There were also bouquets
of marigold, mixed with small bows of black lace ; which
latter, very much worn at the present time, are made of
lace manufactured expressly for this purpose, from 2 inches
to 2i. wide, and resembling handsome-pattern ribbons.
The other, also of straw and of the same shape, was trim-
med with black ears of corn, mixed with coques of cerise,
pale pink, or china-rose-coloured ribbon. These several
shades of roses, blended with the ears before mentioned,
formed an each side of the front two large tufts,-out of
wedhgeichofathfee'fvroeantrswaesscabopedundanwdithedag edr u
et ee co uf r lblaei
k.
laT !lee,
divided in the centre by another of china-rose; so that
one-half was on the inside, and the other on the outside.
Inside, were tufts of pink poppy of various shades, inter-
mixed with black ears and long foliage in black guipure.
The brides were composed of ribbon of different shades of
rose and cerise graduated, and edged with a narrow
black lace.
Fancy or woven straw is just now one of the most
favourite materials for summer bonnets. The square
crowns and plain fronts, which were. almost abandoned,
appear likely to resume their former position ; and,
although perhaps not so graceful in form, our elegante:
are adopting them. We have noticed some very pretty
ones in white taffetas, covered with crepe—a combination
which admirably suits the paille de riz. On the edge of
the front, a deep lace formed a fall, and on each side a
tuft of violets, which, made of crepe and of delicate fabric,
were blended with ears of rice, also of the same material.
The beard, formed by small feathers, produced a soft
effect. At the back of the crown, and above the curtain,
was a bow of ribbon with very short ends. The top of
the front was trimmed with violets and ears, to correspond
with the inside.
A 'charming straw bonnet, with velvet violets scattered
all over it, produced a pleasing effect. The trimming,
composed of a mass of violets strewed on the top of the
crown, was as simple as distinguie ; and a wreath of
violets hanging down on each side, and held up by very
small bows of black lace, completed this pretty style.