The Liverpool Standard, and General Advertiser.
Liverpool, Merseyside, England, 1854-10-10 00:00:00

LIVERPOOL TOWN COUNCIL

Tms monthly meeting of the Town Council was held on
Wednesday, J. Buck Lloyd, Esq., mayor, presiding.
FINANCE COMMITTEE: PROPOSED INCREASE OF SA-
LARIES: —The proceedings embraced recommendations to
increase the salary of D. M. Brown, clerk to the magis-
trates”crerks, from £75 to £lOO per annum ; to sell the
reversion of premises in Oakes-street to the committee of
the Ragged Schools in connexion with St. Silas's Church,
for £5O; to purchase freehold premises, situate in Dale-
street and Crosshall-street, from Mr. Woodward, for the
sum of £B5O. The proceedings of the Markets' Committee,
comprising recommendations to increase the salary of Mr.
Luya, from £250 to £275 per annum ; of Mr. Stonehouse
from £lBO to £2OO per annum, the consideration of which
was postponed at the last monthly council, pursuant to the
standing orders. The proceedings also contained a recom-
mendation for a gas-meter inspector, in accordance with an
application of gas-consumers, if the Corporation had power
to make such an appointment, provided the gas company
would pay his salary.—On the motion of Mr. Hornby,
seconded by Mr. Henderson, the recommendations and
proceedings were confirmed.
IMPROVING BA.TII-STREET: TOWN DUES.-11Ir.Hornby,
in moving the adoption of the general proceedings of the
Finance Committee, called attention to the proposed widen-
ing of Sefton-street to sixty feet, to take down the Goree
warehouses, and continue Strand-street as far as Bath-
street, at a width of sixty feet, and to widen Bath-street,
where necessary, to sixty feet. The Finance Committee
had, he said, appointed a sub-committee to confer with the
sub dock-committee ; and he now suggested that it was
desirable to take preliminary steps to go before parliament
in the next Session, if the committee afterwards decided
to proceed with the improvements wholly or in part. At
the request of Mr. Charles Turner, the Town-clerk read
the following proposition, as that which had been agreed
to be recommended by the committee :—" That the council,
in accordance with the course which has from time to time
been adopted by the Corporation of widening and improv-
ing divers streets in the borough, for the purpose of afford-
ing facilities to the trade of the port, by providing conve-
nient approaches to and in the neighbourhood of the docks,
recognizes the principle embodied in the report of the sub-
committee of the Dock Committee on dock extension, so
far as respects the improvements proposed in that report
to be effected by the Corporation by widening the line of
strand communication from north to south, to the east-
ward of the dock property, and that it be an instruction to
the Finance Committee to confer with the Dock Committee
as to the best mode of obtaining the necessary parliamen-
tary powers for effecting such improvements, and to take
such preliminary steps as may be necessary for complying
with the standing orders of parliament, reporting to the
council as to the cost, and all other details involved."
Some discussion ensued, in which Mr. Chas. Turner, Mr.
Bramley-Moore, M.P., Mr. Hornby, Mr. Alder' nan Ben-
nett, and Mr. Mann, took part.. Mr. Alderman S. Holme
moved, as an amendment, That the Finance Committee
have power to take initiative measures, so far as scheduling
the property, and serving the parliamentary notices are
concerned, for the 'purpose of widening the public thorough-
fares from the north to the south end of the town ; and
that the Finance Committee lay before this council, at the
earliest period, an estimate of the cost of such improve-
ments." Mr. Thomson seconded the amendment. A. fur-
ther discussion took place, after which the amendment was
put to the vote and lost by a majority of 36 to 13. The
voting was as follows :—For : Messrs. Thomson, Bigham,
Moss, W. Nicholson; Godfrey, M`Nicoll, R. Gladstone,
Johnson, J. Nicholson, Beckwith, Henderson ; and Alder-
men Langsdale and . Holme. Against : Messrs. Aked,
Anderson, Mellor, Woodruff, Bradley, McGuffie, Holden,
Littledale, Tyrer, C. Turner, Hornby, Avison Banner,
Fernihough, J. Holme, J. Gladstone, jun., Jeffreys, A.
Shand, Fleming, Earle, Picton, Houghton, Hodson, Clint,
Robertson, Royden, Gregson ' • and Aldermen Bennett,
Preston, Bold, Dover, Parker, J. H. Turner, Bent, Toni-
min, and the Mayor.
OPENING or ST. GEORGE'S HALL.—In relation to the
expense incurred at the opening of St. George's Hall, Mr.
Bigham said he understood that the special committee for
opening St. George's Hall met on Friday last, and passed
a resolution to the effect that their proceedings should be
withheld from the council, in consequence of their being
unable to produce a satisfactory financial statement. In
the management of that fund, and in carrying out their
instructions, he understood a considerable loss had been
sustained, amounting, he believed, to about £4OO, the sum
expended being a little over £4,000, while the sum received
had amounted only to about £3,600. The difference be-
tween these sums must have been paid by some one; and
he would ask, in the first place, whether the officials would
be permitted to expend such sums without special autho-
rity ? Mr. Hornby replied in the negative. Mr. Bigham
took it for granted that the committee had not paid the
difference out of their own pockets. He had heard from
the sub-treasurer --

. The Mayor, interrupting Mr. Bigham, explained that
what that gentleman had referred to as occurring on Fri-
day formed no portion of the financial arrangements of the
committee, nor had it reference to their proceedings in any
way.

kr. Bigham—Does it not involve the payment of money
by our treasurer ? The Mayor—No. Mr. Bigham—l asked
our treasurer distinctly whether he had paid any money,
and he said " £4000." The Mayor—Not from the Corpo-
ration fund. Mr. Bigham—Was not that officer appointed
by the Corporation ? The Mayor—l can only say that
nothing of that kind occurred in the proceedings of any
committee of this council. In reply to some further re-
marks by Mr. Bigham, the Town-clerk stated that the
money had not come out of the borough fund, but out of
a fund which had no connexion with the borough fund,
viz., out of a fund at the bank. Mr. Bigham—Does it
stand in the name of the corporation, or the gentlemen of
the committee ? The Town-clerk—The gentlemen of the
committee. Mr. Bigham—And if they have overdrawn it,
is it on their individual responsibility ? The Town-clerk—
Yes. Mr. Bigham—Then they cannot reclaim anything ?
The Town-clerk—Not a shilling ! Mr. Bigham—Oh !
(Laughter.) The subject was allowed to drop.
The proceedings of the Watch Committee were con-
firmed, on the proposition of Mr. Gregson, and of the
Dock Committee, on the proposition of Mr. C. Turner.
USES OP ST. GEORGE HALL.—Mr. Picton, in pursuance
of notice which he had previously given, moved :—" That
it be referred to the Law Courts Committee to consider
and report to the council on the best mode of rendering
St. George's Hall permanently available for the use and
comfort of the inhabitants generally, with instructions
that in any scheme to be proposed, the recreation and im-
provement of the working classes shall form a prominent
and essential part." In coarse of his remarks, Mr. Pic-
ton suggested that St. George's Hall should be thrown
open to the public ; that when the organ was finished,
one of the most accomplished organists they could find
should be appointed; and that there should be cheap con-
certs once a week, as in Birmingham, at a charge of say
3d. each, which he had no doubt would not only prove
self-supporting, but somewhat remunerative. The reso-
lution moved by Mr. Picton was seconded by Mr. Alder-
man J. H. Turner, and adopted.
MARKETS COMMITTEE.—The proceedings of the Mar-
kets' Committee comprised recommendations to increase
the salary of Mr. Luya from £250 to £275 per annum,
and the salary of' Mr. Stonehouse from £lBO to £2OO per
annum, the consideration of which was postponed at the
last monthly council, pursuant to the standing orders.
Mr. Woodruff moved, seriatim, that the augmentations of
salaries referred to be allowed, which, after remarks by
several members of the council, were confirmed.

LIB Enucanow CO3IMITT/311.—The proceedings of the
Education Committee comprised a recommendation to in-
crease the salary of William Owens, teacher in the Corpo-
ration South School, from £lB 4s. to £3O per annum.
The proceedings were confirmed.
HEALTH COMMITTEE.—The recommendations were to
increase the salaries of the following officers :—namely,
Thomas White, clerk in treasurer's department, from
£2lO to £240 per annum ; Thomas J. Hughes, ditto, from
£BO to £9O per annum ; James M`Fadzen ditto, from £7O
to £BO per annum : Thomas J. Nicholson, ditto, from
£54 12s. to £7O per annum ; James Rogers, ditto, from
£32 to £6O per annum; Benjamin Owens, ditto, from £32
to £6O per annum ; James Lothean Ascroft, clerk in
borough engineer's department, from £l2O to £l5O per
annum ; James Lea, surveyor of drainage, from £BO to
£lOO per annum ; George Powell, surveyor for Toxteth-
park district, from £lOO to £llO per annum ; James
Wilson, clerk in the engineer's department, from £1 ls.
per week to £7O per annum, the consideration of which
was postponed at the last monthly council, pursuant to
the standing orders, The whole of the increases were
confirmed without discussion.

In discussing this committee's proceedings an inquiry
into the charges made by Mr. Bradley gave rise to a scene
of acrimonious debate, such as rarely occurs to animate
the proceedings of a public body ; which, like most such
scenes, ended in nothing beyond an expressio'n of vindic-
ative personal feeling.
The proceedings of the Baths' Committee, comprising a
recommendation to increase the salary of W. D. Penny-
cook, clerk of the works, from £lO4 per annum to £l5O
per annum, were passed, the increase of salary being ad-
journed in compliance with standing orders.
The appointment, pursuant to " The Militia Law
Ar

nendm-eiat Act, 1864," of two members of the council
meet the two justices, appointed by the justices of the
county of Lancaster, at their Annual General Session,
held on the 14th ult., to jointly determine and award the
respective proportions in which the county and borough
shall contribute to the expenditure incurred, or to be in-
curred, under the above-mentioned act, was then proceeded
with. On the motion of Mrs Tyrer, the chairman and
deputy chairman of the Finance Committee were ap-
pointed.
The proceedings of the Gardens' Committee, the Water
Committee, the Library and Museum Committee, (which
included a recommendation to remove the south lending
library to a house in Harvey-street,) and the Hackney
Carriage and Licensing Committee, were confirmed with-
out discussion.

PROPOSED NEW STREET.—Among the Mayor's com-
munications was a memorial from Mr. Richard Brooke,
F.S.A„ author of Liverpool Fifty Years Ago, recom-
mending the formation of another street in lieu of the
proposed widening of Church-street, Bold-street, and
Berry-street, with respect to which latter proposition
there were, he said, great difficulties in a financial point of
view, and which, if carried out, would still he an unsatis-
factory thoroughfare. The memorial respectfully sug-
gested, that instead of altering Church-street, Bold-street,
or Berry-street, the evil arising from their narrowness,
and the circuitous route through them, would be far more
effectually removed, and at a much lighter expense, by
opening on a grand scale an entirely new street, of the
same width as Lord-street, and to extend, with shops in a
line, from the point of junction at Lord-street with Para-
dise-street, (leavine, Seel-street on the eastward side,) and
terminating at the point of junction of Great George-
street ; and that, from the description of the yards, cooper-
ages, buildings, and other property near School-lane,
College-lane, and Hanover-street, Gradwell-street, \\rol-
-1
stenholm-square, and Parr-street, which the new street
would intersect or pass near, it may be presumed that the
expense of making it would be moderate, and far less than
by adopting a scheme of widening Church-street, Bold-
street, and Berry-street. If, from circumstances, it should
be inconvenient to make the netv street straight, it might
be formed with a curve; and the examples of the High-
street, Oxford, and Regent-street,London, andseveral of the
boulevards in Paris, prove that there is not any difficulty
in building very handsome streets, with curves. If, from
economical motives, it should be considered advisable not
to carry the new street as far as the end of Great George-
street, it migl4 be so arranged as to open into Duke-street,

opposite the end of Cornwa

good one, and reflected great cred

et, or eve:

36-: Brook

was refeired to the Improvement CoMmittee.
SEWERS IN THE DOCKS.—The following motion, of
which notice had been given by Mr. Thompson, was re-
ferred to the Health Committee : " That it be an instruc-
tion to the Health Committee to confer with the Dock
Committee, with the view of obtaining permission to con-
tinue the public sewers which now empty into the dock
basins, across such basins into the River Mersey, by means
of large iron pipes."
OPENING OF ST. GEORGE'S HALL—DEFICIENT RE.
CEIPT S.—ln accordance with a notice which he had given,
Mr. Councillor Thomson moved, " That, as the professed
object of opening St. George's Hall with a musical festival
was the benefit of the public hospitals, and as the public
paid for their admission into the hall, whilst the members
of the council obtained free admission, each member of
the council be requested to pay for all free admissions he
used on the three days." After some remarks condemna-
tory of the mode in which the proceedings had been con-
ducted the motion was withdrawn. On the suggestion
of Mr. Anderson, it was agreed, as was understood, that
the members of council should resume their privilege of
granting orders to view) the hall.—Mr. Bigham moved
" That the clerks to the magistrates be requested to make
a return, showing the amount of fines levied for breaches
of dock regulations, particularizing under the various bye-
laws, amounts collected, and how appropriated, week by
week, for the past six months ; also for theumounts levied
for the corresponding period last year." The proposal
was agreed to without discussion, as was also the follow-
ing by Mr. Anderson. " That the resolution-passed by
the council on the 13th ult., referring to the Gaol and
House of Correction Committee the letter of the Rev.
Thomas Carter, requesting the council to carry the pio-
visions of the Juvenile Reformatories Act into immediate
effect, be rescinded, and that the same letter be referred
to a special committee of the council to report thereon,"
and the following gentlemen were 'appointed the com-
mittee :—The Mayor, and those gentlemen of the council
who are magistrates, with Mr. Woodruff, Mr. Tobin, and
Mr. Bigham.
This concluded the business, and the council rose at
four o'clock, having sat five hours:,

SPORTING INTELLIGENCE.

BETTING AT MANCHESTER-FRIDAY

If the Cesarewitch and Cambridgeshire Stakes have not
this year not been productive of any great amount of in-
terest and speculation, the question as to whether Sebas-
topol was taken in September or not has served as a
good substitufe ; and each day, upon the subscribers mus-
tering at the Postoffice Hotel, the questions " Is there
anything fresh from the Crimea ?" " Has anything ema-
nated trom the War-office in confirmation of Sebastopol
being taken ?" and other similar interrogations in the
same strain were put; and little knots were formed in
different parts of the room for the purpose of discussing
the topic. As for bets upon horse racing, they were few
and far between. On Wednesday, so strongly had the
opinion set in in favour of Sebastopol having been taken,
that nearly any odds were offered, and those who had laid
against it began to reconcile themselves to their supposed
loss, while others began to count their gains. In the
evening, however, doubts as to the accuracy of the report
began to exist, and frequent offers were made to take 10
to 1 that Sebastopol was not taken in September ; and

was not taken in September. To-day, several wagers were
laid that it was not taken at the present time ; and even
money was also laid that not a " shot" from the land side
was made at Sebastopol during the last month. Towards
the close of the room, we heard one gentleman who has
figured most conspicuously in laying against Sebastopol
being taken, offer to bet an even poney that it would not
be taken until after the Cesarewitch Stakes had been run
for, namely, on Tuesday next. However, although this
war question has been so engrossing a subject, a little
betting took place upon the Cesarewitch Stakes, Musco-
vite, who has had rather a " fishy" appearance in this
market since Tuesday, closed rather firmly at 8 to 1 ; and
9 to 1 was taken freely about D 0, who has many friends.
La Belle advanced to 100 to 6 (taken). Rattle seemed
" shaky ;" 10 to 1 was currently offered, and we think a
point or two more would have been laid. No one offered
to back either Calamus or Rodomeli. 100 to 6 was taken
yesterday about Rattle for the Cambridgeshire Stakes, but
there is very little doing ou that event today.

CESA.REWITCH STAKES.
8 to 1 agst Mr. Greville's Muscovite—taken.
Bto 1 „ Mr. T. Wray's D. 0.-9 to 1 taken freely
10 to 1 „ Mr. Dennett's Rattle—offered. '
100 to 6 „ Sir J. Boswell's La Belle—taken.
100 to 6 „ Mr. J. M. Stanley's Calamus— nominal.
25 to 1 „ Mr. Morris's Indian Warrior—taken.
25 to 1 „ Mr. Shelley's Koh-i-noor—takeu.
25 to 1 „ Lord Derby's Bracken—taken.
25 to 1 „ Mr. Murland's Ammonia.
25 to 1 „ Mr. Saxon's Barrel—taken.
25 to 1 „ Lord Clifden's Bodo Meli—taken.
30 to 1 „ Lord Clifden's Poodle—offered.
30 to 1 „ Mr. Barber's Cobnut—taken, aft. off.
40 to I „ Mr. Lister's Lincoln's Inn—taken.
50 to 1 „ Baron W. Mollendorf's Scherz—taken.
50 to 1 „ Lord W. I'owlett's Exact—taken.
50 to 1 „ Mr. J. Clark's Naomi—taken.

CAMBRIDGESHIRE STAKES.
14 to 1 agst Mr. Copperthwaite's The Early Bird—tk
20 to 1 „ Mr. J. ➢i. Stanley's Orinoco—taken.

Lord Exeter's horses in training will be brought to the
hammer on Thursday next, at Newmarket.
Mr. E. R. Clark has purchased Mr. Bancroft's two year
old colt General Picton, by Flatcatcher, for 100 soya.

It is reported to be the intention of the committee to
discontinue the Manchester Autumn Meeting.

-- -
Helena and The Deformed, both engaged in the Cam-
bridgeshire Stakes, were put up for sale at Tattersall's,
last week, and bought in by John Osborne. .
_ _ _ _

Mr. J. Arnold's racing stud will be sold without reserve
on Mondry next, the 16th instant; Mr. Knowles's brood
mares will be put up at the same time.
Mr. John Scott, of Malton, has purchased of Thomas
Dawson, Esq., of Driffield, his ch c Shamyl, by Cossack
out of Factory Girl; and of John Rickarby, Esq., of Brid-
lington, his b c Jocular, by Touchstone out of Ada Mary,
for large prices.

The following yearlings have lately arrived at Mr. J.
Scott's stables, Whitewall House, near Mahon, to be
trained for their engagements :—Lord Derby's b c Fazzo-
letto, by Orlando out of Canezou ; br c Coup de Main, by
lago out of Tour de Force ; and b f Imposture, by lago
out of the Duchess of Kent ; Mr. Bowes's br c Fly by
Night, by The Flying Dutchman out of The Flapper, and
Victoria (sister to West Australian) ; Mr. A. Nichol's ro c
Warlock. by Birdcatcher out of Elphine ; Mr. Murland's
br c Forbidden Fruit, by Birdcatcher or Gameboy out of
Touch me Not ; and Mr. Oldaker's b c by John Cosser ont
of The Jewess.

THE LATE DONCASTER ST. LEGEL.—A correspondence,
originating out of a series of charges preferred against Mr.
John Scott by the Hon. Admiral Rous, respecting the
running of Acrobat, in the St. Leger, has been published,
in which the hon. and gallant admiral retracts the impu-
tations made by him against the character of Mr. John
Scott. It is also stated by Mr. Scott (with the permission.
of Lord Derby) that Boiardo, in all his trials, at all dis-
tances, always proved himself a better horse than Acrobat,
and that he entertained the most confident opinion that
Boiardo would have won the St. Leger, but that accident
alone caused his defeat. Alfred Day, who rode Boiardo,
testifies that he went well to just below the distance, when
he felt him break down; and Mr. William Mayor, jun.,
veterinary surgeon, after examining Boiardo on the 23rd
September, at Milton, certifies that Boiardo was then
lame from recent inflammation and enlargement of the
suspensory ligament of the near fore leg, which consti-
tutes the defect termed " break down." The sporting
public, we suppose, will now rest satisfied that the last
Doncaster St. Leger was run on the " square."

CHESTER AITTIMIN MEETIWG.—On Tuesday and Wed-
nesday last, the last meeting of the year took place, and,
although the weather was fine, was rather thinly attended.
On Tuesday, the Shorts Handicap was won easily by Mr.
Clarkson's Amy, beating Horatio, Comfort, and five
oters ; the Mostyn Stakes were won by Lord Wilton's
Orson's, beating three others ; the Tradesmen's Welter
Cup was won by Captain Christie's Defiance, beating
Milkboy, Caliph, and five others, but the race is in dis-
pute ; the Chester Nursery Handicap was won by Mr. J.
H. Jones's The Maid of Cadiz, beating Evangeline and
eight others; the Innkeeper's Plate was won by Mr. F.
Clarke's Gruyere, beating four others. On Wednesday, a
Handicap for Two Year Olds was won by Mr. Bancroft's
General Picton, beating Shoreham and three others ; the
Wynnstay Handicap Plate was won by Mr. Worthington's
Lady Palmerston, beating five others ; the Chester Han-
dicap Stakes was won by Mr. G. Barton's Jetty Treffz,
beating Medal, St. Clair, and five others ; a Plate of GO
soya. was won by Mr. Harker's Young Hack, beating 13
others ; and a Selling Race was won by Mr. Robinson's
Louisa, beating five others.

RECEIPT STAMPS ON CHARITABLE DONATIONS.—An
application having been made to the solicitors of the
Board of Stamps and Taxes, to know whether donations
of £2 and upwards received for a " Sailors' Home"" charity
were required to be on a penny stamp, the reply was that,
being for a charity, it was not necessary.

TIIE NEW STAMP ACT.—(l7th and 18th Victoria, chap.
13) will come into operation to-morrow. The principal
alteration relates to bills of exchange and promissory notes.
Bills of exchange drawn out of the United Kingdom are to
be denoted by adhesive stamps, and the holder of a bill so
purporting to be drawn is not to negotiate it without affix-
ing an adhesive stamp. A penalty is to be levied on per-
sons taking or receiving such bills without adhesive
stamps. Receipt stamps may be lawfully used for the pur-
pose. With regard to bankers' draughts, by the present
law draughts drawn on bankers within 15 miles of the
place where drawn are exempted ; but the law by this act is
altered, so that a draught or order beyond 15 miles cannot
be remitted or sent unless duly stamped, or be received in
payment, or as a security, or otherwise circulated, under a
penalty of £5O. Adhesive stamps may be affixed to such
draughts. There is a clause repealing the exemption from
receipt stamp duty of letters acknowledging by post the
safe arrival of bills of exchange, promissory notes, or other
securities fog money. Receipts for money paid to the
crown are exempted from the stamp duty. Some altera-
tions are made with respect to stamps on conveyances of
property. In future pawnbrokers in Dublin are to pay a
duty of £7 10s. instead of £l5. All contracts to serve as
artificers, servants, &c., in the colonies are to be exempted
from duty, as also public maps and documents referred to
in deeds or writings. Leases for a period less than a year
are to be chargeable with duty on the rent reserved. In
order to encourage the purchase of stamps, persons by buy-
ing stamps to £5, not exceeding is. duty, are to be allowed
after the rate of 7 per cent. No charge is to be made by
sellers of stamps for papers on notes or stamps where the
rate of duty does not exceed ls. An allowance is to be
made up to the sth of April next for stamps rendered use-
less by this act. All instruments liable to stamp duty are
to be admitted in evidence in any criminal proceeding,
though not properly stamped. The new duties on inland
bills and notes commence at ld. other than on demand,
where the same does not exceed £5; not exceeding £lO,
the duty will be 2d. ; not exceeding £25, 3d. ; not exceed-
ing £5O, 6d. ; net exceeding £75, ; and notexceeding
£lOO, ls. ; and not exceeding £2OO, the duty is to be 2s.
These new duties will be payable OA bills or notes &Awn
after to-morrow,

PARIS FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER

(PROM

THE COURT JOURNAL

THE month of October is a month of great importance in
the register of the fashionable year. It generally witnesses
the discarding of the light and elegant fancies of summer;
for the adoption of the more rich and solid materials of
winter costume. The quantity of new stuffs invented for
Autumn wear is more than usually large. The old fast
of ribbed stuffs has been a

an eage

amounting to exaggeration. That charming nrateriat-
which our grandmothers loved so well for the ease which
it lent to the peculiar mouvement de jupe they appreciated
so highly, is now being made both for promenade and
evening wear. The manufacturers have had the goo/
sense to maintain its old-fashioned name, and still cap
reps. This stuff has been made in every colour • '
and ecossais it has a most beautiful effect, the R.
the material annulling the hardness of the lines. .
of this stuff of the new colour, vent Silistrie, stripeu
groseille, was the one chosen by the Empress, from a,
great number presented to her notice. Popeline Pashah
is also an entirely new material. It is also ribbed, but +'
ribs are thrown up at wider intervals. This mate
generally made of two or more colours, sometim
ground is shot and the ribs striped of the two colours cu_
posing the ground, and recurring alternately. It is very
becoming, and being very expensive, cannot soon fall into
.the domains du vulgaire. It will be seen by the soft
thick texture ofaltianhstestaie new
fin
veedysetnaisrsosub, esisstitnhadarattetvheisinigreetixgocilainsocfrofiesoe7a
cesdAse:
mwhinieiohnhfaorvethme
yet we have found nothing better to replace them than the
weaving of a distinct pattern at the bottom of the dress.
But this fashion, instead of increasing the fulness of the
skirt, considerably diminishes its width, and has no doubt
originated the necessity for the tremendous, and now vul—
garly exaggerated under petticoats' of crinoline, which are
beginning to' cause the figures of our fair Parisians to swell
out to dimensions bordering on caricature. We shall long-
regret the abolition of flounces, and, although the Empress
herself has been the first to dispense with them, we still
hope they may find favour a little while longer. T 1
sliding step by which her Imperial Majesty accustoms
as it *ere, by degrees to the absence of flounces, is a
pretty and graceful fashion, said to be of her own inven-
tion. Flat bands or tucks of the same material as
dress, diminishing- in width towards the waist, coy,
skirt entirely. These tucks are edged with lace, an 4'o,_
a very light and pleasing ornament. The dress in w.
her Majesty drove recently from the Tuileries to St. Ch. ct
was of silk, with broad stripes of- grey and white. Ti
jupe was covered with these bands a l' Andalouse, of al
ternate grey and white. The white bands edged with
black lace, and the grey with white. The corsage was
made a revers, edged with black, and white lace carried
over the shoulder down the seams of the back on to the
basques behind. The sleeves were made open from th,
shoulder, the opening edged with black and white lace '
correspond, and the puffings seen through the oper'
were of alternate black and white net, This dress cr
an immense sensation, as it was the first of the ki-
seen, and considered the harbinger of a complete rev
in the style of dress.

Another fashion which has been adopted by the.E:
and which, while admirably adapted to Her 31:
beautiful and slender figure, can never become gem
account of its tendency to increase the size of ti
waist, is that of ornamenting the eorsaae
which is laid flat over the bosom, des(
i I end of the Basque, which is edged ill

n check
mess of-
A drew

of the same. The sleeves are Li.-
with a double fiat guipure from the su,
by a broad cuff a la mousquetaire. Sometimes
is laid upon silk of a different colour to that of the t,
The one composed of the pompadour mixture, the dre-
being of sky blue, and the revers of guipure lined with
rose colour, which Her MAjesty wore on her visit to the
Opera, was pronounced a chef d'ceuvre by the most fasti-
dious and refined connoisseurs. The immense success of
the costume worn by Mdlle. Luther in the Fauconnier,
has given rise to an almost new style of basquine which
falls low over the hips, and is edged with flat bows with:
long ends. This fashion is exceedingly becoming, but grep'
care must be taken neither to exaggerate nor diminishi
width of the ribbon. If too broad it increases the l
the figure ; if too narrow it has both a poor
No. 7" is the proper width; of the
quality, and the bows should be made en coquille. _
waist of this basquine is much longer than hitherto worm—
It is cut entirely in one piece, and must be adjusted with
the greatest nicety. It meets in front to within r
tltree inches from the throat to the waist, and seen'
merely confined by ribbons crossing each off
finished by the same bows en coquille as those
barques, with ends increasing in length as they
the waist. The Duchess de Dino appeared i-
basquines, at the morning concert, given at Tieudoh
Prince Jerome. It was of striped Pekin, of the thickest
quality, rose vif and white, and worn over a double skirt
of white muslin, open on each side, and confined by t-
of the same ribbon as that upon the basquine -
dress worn with this novel costume was cons,
boldest innovation of all—being neither bonnet nor cap;
but a capuchon a la Graifigny of Brussels lace, laid full
and easy as a Spanish mantilla over the back of the head;
and descending beneath the chin, where it crosses over;
and is attached to the bust by large flat bows of the same
ribbon as that upon the dress. The raven hair of the
beautiful duchess was laid in double bandeaux beneath.
this becoming coiffure, and on, either side of the temples
two coque: of ribbon served to icarter the lace from the
countenance—thus rendering it doubly becoming, by
throwing its transparent shade over the cheeks and
forehead.

es the

at the ott

s to bet
•1 and

Ts
she head-

Autumn bonnets have appeared, composed entire
black lace, upon which are laid wreaths of green, or nu
leaves of velvet, exquisitely shaped and laid thicld

upon another—each leaf is edgea with a black lace

expressly for the purpose. These bonnets are but little
ornamented, as the material of which they are made is in.
itself rich, and bien fourui. Some have been seen with a.
small bunch of bouts d'aile feathers on either side, others=
_
witl

,
a mere increase in the quantity of leaves, as the.
garniture approaches the ears. In either case these new
bonnets are destined to have the vogue, being exceedingly
original and becoming. In caps but little novelty has
appeared. The bonnet papillon, being the one adopted
by the Empress, has of course obtained the preference. It
is set over the plaits of hair behind, and extends its wings
over two round bunches of violets or myosostis, or narrow
ribbon, which, mingled with narrow lace, hang on ea‘qt,
side almost away from the head, with the lightest and.
most elegant effect possible.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.—The dessous de chapeau
worn beneath every bonnet is no longer a matter of choice
—necessity compels that it should be composed of white
and black net, the black edging being next the face. The
flowers adorning these dessous are generally either coque-
licot or marguerites of divers bright colours. Fruit is
much worn, as is generally the case at this time of the
year—and the fashion is even carried to exaggeration, its
the case of grapes and cherries, which are sometimes stuck
in large bunches on each side of fancy straw bonnets,
detracting from the lightness usually their characteristic,.
and which the vast quantities of black lace used in the
garniture fails to restore. Lingerie is decidedly under-
going a revolution, whether of reform or not, time alone
will prove. Borderie Anglaise has been manufactured
in colours instead of white. Even collars and sleeves arer
worked in mille points pattern, with red and violet-
coloured cotton. One canezou to wear with a barege
porcelaine was worked in every colour. Much has been
said of the new system of attache, which is entirely to,
preclude the necessity of buttons or agraffes in any article
of dress whatever. The article has been kept a secret
until the return of the Empress, in order that it might
appear first under the patronage of that august lady. It
is said to be highly ornamental and classical. In a trous-
seau lately completed, the handkerchiefs for the bride were
all marked in Gothic cyphers, as large as a half-crown
piece, forming a decided contrast to the small, indeed
minute letters of the name, which have adorned thens
until now. Coral ornaments are much worn, and even
dress boots of grey or stone-coloured silk are ornamented.
with coral buttons. Parures of lapis lazuli, so graduated
in shade as to snit every complexion, and which are to
throw every other description of ornament into the shade
for the next winter. A set of buttons made for the Princess
Mathilde in this material, consisted in the graduation of
colour presented by the buttons, beginning at the throat
of the very lightest shade of blue, and terminating at the
waist by the deepest tone of bright purple. Ornaments
for drawing-room are now chiefly made of fer oxide or
very original and beautiful style. The enamel of every
colour which can be produced, shining as it were by refrac-
tion amid the dark grey colour of the iron, is considered a.
chef d'oeuvre of taste and invention. Potichomanie has
completely set aside the beautiful works of every other
description for which our Parisian ladies are so celebrated-
The mania has extended itself from the drawing-room to
the antechamber, and nothing is beheld but vases and
potiches of the most " costly description" of Japan, Chinese
or Sevres ware, sometimes made out of a sheet of gilt
devices and a common jelly glass !

SHIPWRECKS AND LOSS OP LIFE IN 1853.—The wrecks
on the coasts and in the seas of the United, Kingdom its
1853 were 832, which may be thus classed:—Totally
wrecked, 369; teditlly lost in collision 52.; damaged se-
riously, and had to xtischarge, 386; damaged seriously its
collision, 25. The number of casualties in each month
were :—January, 106; February, 91; March, 52;
78 ; May, 41; June, 26 ; July, 45 ; August, 23; September„
70 ; October, 96 ; November, 71; December, 123: total,
832. Of these, 253 occurred on the east coast of Great
Britain ; 76 on the south coast, and 130 on the west coast;
81 wrecks took place on the coast of Ireland; 6 were cast
on shore at Scilly; 11 at the Channel Islands ; 3 at Ork I
ney and Shetland ; and 12 at the Isle of Man • the remain-
ing 260 wrecks occurred in the surrounding seas. The
whole loss of lives during the year, as far as has been as-
certained, amounts to 989.—Lifeboat Journal.
THE RIISSIA.N TEREITOJIY lIP AMEEICA.—It has hems
stated, in a somewhat. prominent manner, that the French-
and English governments have demanded explanations
from the American cabinet on the supposed negotiations
to purchase the territory of Sitka from the Russian govern-
ment. Russia may think it wise to complicate her rela-
tions with Sweden by harsh treatment of the innocent
Laplanders on the shores of the North Sea; but Francs
and England are not likely to create an American question
out of proposals to purchase for the republic an orna-
mental Arctic boundary. We have the best reason to-
believe that the rumour is altogether unfounded.—Globe-

TIIE COKE TRADE is making considerable progress in
the northern colliery district, and a class of coal which
formerly was of very little value is now becoine an impor—
tant article of commerce. From returns whichlmvebeen.
lied, it appears that in 1833 the whole or
.he coke exported from this country only amou,nted to
4,008 tons; 3,275 of this quantity being manufactured on
the banks of the Tyne, 73 tons at Sunderland, none r
Hartlepool or Stockton. Last year the quantity expor'
sfrtoocmktttne Tynel663 74ailldtoHnsar;
Hartlepool, 33,960
21,490t0ns f
1833 to 43,376 in 1853. In the Tyne, from 4,3'
13vaston9st
shipment's coastwise have increased from 1.0,973
18,636; Stockton and Hartlepool, from nil to 6
from Stockton ; 5,746 from Hartlepool. Them. _
not take in the great trade in coke by inland carr •
from the Auckland Valley coalfield, which supplies the
principal railways in the kingdom with
tons of coke in the year by the Stockton amnadny th
Darltusangtomct
ItailwaY, and thence south 11 the north-e4stem rnilurap,

recently public

-1,143
urns do-