The Liverpool Standard, and General Advertiser.
Liverpool, Merseyside, England, 1854-10-10 00:00:00

PARIS FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER

FROM THE COURT JOURNAL.)

Tra month of October is a month of great imp". _
the register of the fashionable year. It generally witnesses,
the discarding of the light and elegant fancies-of swum-
for the adoption of the more rich and solid ma'.
winter costume. The quantity of new stuffs inventeu _
Autumn wear is more than usually large. The old fashion
of ribbed stuffs has been adopted with ,
amounting to exaggeration. That charming
which our grandmothers loved so well for the ease which
it lent to the peculiar mouvement de pipe they appreciatect
so highly, is now being made both for promenade ancl
evening wear. The manufacturers have had the good,
sense to maintain its old-fashioned name, and still call it
reps. This stuff has been made in every col—
-
and e'cossais it has a most beautiful effect, .11.
the material annulling the hardness of the lines.
of this stuff of the new colour, vert Silistrie, striped with
groseille, was the one chosen by the Empress, from a
great number presented to her notice. Popeline Pasha&
is also an entirely new material. It is also ribbed,. but the
ribs are thrown up at wider intervals. This material is
generally made of two or more colours, sometimes the
ground is shot and the ribs striped of the two colours com-
posing the ground, and recurring alternately. It is very
becoming, and being very expensive, cannot soon fall into
the domains du vulgaire. It will be seen by the soft
thick texture of these new tissues that the reign of flounces,
which have maintained so obstinate, so exclusive a do-
minion for the last five years, is drawing to a close. As
yet we have found nothing betterto replace them than the
weaving of a distinct pattern at the bottom of the dress.
But this fashion, instead of increasing the fulness of the
skirt, considerably diminishes its width, and has no doubt
originated the necessity for the tremendous, and now vul-
garly exaggerated under petticoats of crinoline, which are-
beginning to cause the figures of our fair Parisians to svrell
out to dimensions bordering on caricature. We shall long
regret the abolition of flounces, and, although-the Empress
herself has been the first to dispense with them, we still.
hope they may find favour a little while longer. The
sliding step by which her Imperial Majesty accustoms us,
as it were, by degrees to the absence of flounces, is a very
pretty and graceful fashion, said to be of her own inven-
tion. Flat bands or tucks of the same material as the
dress, diminishing in width towards the waist, cover the
skirt entirely. These tucks are edged with lace, and form.
a yery light and pleasing ornament. The dress iu which
her Majesty drove recently from the Tuileries to St. Cloud
was of silk, with broad stripes of grey and white. The
jupe was covered with these bands a l' Andalouse, of al-
ternate grey and white. The white bands edged with
black lace, and the grey with white. The corsage wr'
made a revers, edged with black, and white lace car-
over the shoulder down the seams of the back on tc
basques behind. The sleeves were made open fron
shoulder, the opening edged with black and white
correspond, and the puffings seen through the of
were of alternate black and white net, This dress eau:,
an immense sensation, as it was the first of the kind yet
seen, and considered the harbinger of a complete revolutio-
in the style of dress.

rials of

an eag

material:

A. dress-

Another fashion which has been adopted by the Erni._
and which, while admirably adapted to Her Majesty's
beautiful and slender figure, can never become general, r
account of its tendency to increase the size of the bus+
waist, is that of ornamenting the corsage with r
which is laid flat over the bosom, descending t,
end of the basque, which is edged likewise wan a revere
of the same. The sleeves are made open at the outside,
with a double flat guipure from the shoulder, terminate&
by a broad cuff ala mousquetaire. Sometimes the guipure
is laid upon silk of a different colour to that of the dress:.
The one composed of the pompadour mixture, the: dyes*
being of sky blue, and the revers of guipure lined with
rose colour, which Her Majesty wore on her visit to the
Opera, was pronounced a chef d'wuvre by the most fasti-
dious and refined connoisseurs. The immense success of
the costume worn by Mdlle. Luther in the Fauconnier,
has given rise to an almost new style of basquine which
falls low over the hips, and is edged with flat bows with..
long ends. This fashion is exceedingly becoming, but great
care must be taken neither to exaggerate nor diminish the
width of the ribbon. If too broad it increases the bulk o£
the figure ; if too narrow it has both a poor and taudry
effect. "No. 7" is the proper width; of the stoutest
quality, and the bows should be made en coquille.. The
waist of.this basquine is much longer than hitherto worm.
It is cut entirely in one piece, and must be adjusted with
the greatest .nicety. It meets in front to within about
three inches from the throat to the waist, and seems to be
merely confined by ribbons crossing each other,, ant
finished by the same bows cis coquille as those upon the
basques, with ends increasing in length as they approach
the waist. The Duchess de Dino appeared in one of these
basquines, at the morning concert, given at Meudon by
Prince Jerome. It was of striped Pekin, of the thickest-
quality, rose vif and white, and worn over a double skirt
of white muslin, open on each side, and confined by bow-
of the same ribbon as that upon the basquine. The he:,
dress worn with this novel costume was considered
boldest innovation of all—being neither bonnet nr
but a capuchon a la Graffigny of Brussels lace, lam .
and easy as a Spanish mantilla over the back of the head,
and descending beneath the chin, where it crosses over,
and is attached to the bust by large flat bows of the same
ribbon as that upon the dress. The raven hair of the
beautiful duchess was laid in double bandeaux beneath
this becoming coiffure, and on either side of the temples
two toques of ribbon served to icarter the lace from the
countenance—thus rendering it doubly becoming, by
throwing its transparent shade over the cheeks and
forehead.

) the very

Autumn bonnets have appeared, composed entirely of
black lace, upon which are laid wreaths of green, or nzarrors
leaves of velvet, exquisitely shaped and laid thickly on&
upon another—each leaf is edged with a black lace, made
expressly for the purpose. These bonnets are but little
ornamented, as the material of which they are made is in
itself rich, and bienfourui. Some have been seen with
small bunch of bouts d'aile feathers on either side, of
with a mere increase in the quantity of leaves,
garniture approaches the ears. In either case these new
bonnets are destined to have the vogue, being exceedingly
original and becoming. In caps but little novelty has
appeared. The bonnet papillon, being the one adopted
by the Empress, has of course obtained the preference. It
is set over the plaits of hair behind, and extends its wings
over two round bunches of violets or myosostis, or narrow
ribbon, which, mingled with narrow lace, hang on each
side almost away from the head, with the lightest and
most elegant effect possible.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.—The dessous de chapeau
worn beneath every bonnet is no longer a matter of choice
—necessity compels that it should be composed of white
and black net, the black edging being next the face. The
flowers adorning these dessous are generally either coque-
licot or marguerites of divers bright colours. Fruit is
much worn, as is generally the case at this time of the:
year—and the fashion is even carried to exaggeration, in
the case of grapes and cherries, which are sometimes stuck
in large bunches on each side of fancy straw bonnets,
detracting from the lightness usually their characteristic,
and which the vast quantities of black lace used in the
garniture fails to restore. Lingerie is decidedly under-
going a revolution, whether of reform or not, time alone
will prove. Borderie Anglaise has been manufactured
in colours instead of white. Even collars and sleeves are
worked in mine points pattern, with red and violet-
coloured cotton. One canezou to wear with a barege
porcelaine was worked in every colour. Much has been
said of the new system of attache, which is entirely to
preclude the necessity of buttons or agraffes in any article
of dress whatever. The article has been kept a secret
until the return of the Empress, in order that it might
appear first under the patronage of that august lady. It
is said to be highly ornamental and classical. In a trous-
seau lately completed, the handkerchiefs for the bride were
all marked in Gothic cyphers, as large as a half-crown
piece, forming a decided contrast to the small, indeed
minute letters of the name, which have adorned therm
until now. Coral ornaments are much worn, and even
dress boots of grey or stone-coloured silk are ornamented
with coral buttons. Parures of lapis lazuli, so graduated
in shade as to suit every complexion, and which are to
throw every other description of ornament into the shade
for the next winter. A set of buttons made for the Princess
Mathilde in this material, consisted in the graduation of
colour presented by the buttons, beginning at the throat
of the very lightest shade of blue, and terminating at the
waist by the deepest tone of bright purple. Ornaments
for drawing-room are now chiefly made of fer oxide- of a
very original and beautiful style. The enamel of every
colour which can be produced, shining as it were by refrac-
tion amid the dark grey colour of the iron, is considered a.
chef d'ceurre of taste and invention. Potichomanie has
completely set aside the beautiful works of every other
description for which our Parisian ladies are so celebrated.
The mania has extended itself from the drawing-room to
the antechamber, and nothing is beheld but vases and
potiches of the most " costly description" of Japan, Chinese
or Sevres ware, sometimes made out of a sheet of gilt
devices and a common jelly glass !

SIIIPWRECKS AND Loss os LIFE IN 1853.—The wrecks
on the coasts and in the seas of the United Kingdom in
1853 were 832, which may be thus classed :—Totally
wrecked, 369; totally lost in collision, 52; damaged se-
riously, and had to discharge, 386; damaged seriously in
collision, 25. The number of casualties in each month
were :—January, 106; February, 91; March, 52; April,
78 ; May, 41; June, 26 ; July, 45 ; August, 23 ; September,
70 ; October, 96 ; November, 71; December, 123:
832. Of these, 253 occurred on the east coast of Great
Britain ; 76 on the south coast, and 130 on the west coast;
81 wrecks took place on the coast of Ireland ; 6 were cast
on shore at Scilly ; 11 at the Channel Islands ; 3 at Ork
ney and Shetland ; and 12 at the Isle of Man; the remain-
ing 260 wrecks occurred in the surrounding seas. The
whole loss of lives during the year, as far as has been as-
certained, amounts to 989.—Lifeboat Journal.
TIIE RUSSIAN TERRITORY IN AMERICA.—It has been
stated, in a somewhat prominent manner, that the French
and
thedE Americanlish g
cabinetovernments on thehavesupposeddemandednegotiations
explanations
from
to purchase the territory of Sitka from the Russia

govern..

ment. Russia may think it wise to complicate her iel;
tions with Sweden by harsh treatment of the innocen'

Laplanders on the shores of the North Sea; but France
and England are not likely to create au American question
out of proposals to purchase for the republic an orna.
mental Arctic boundary. We have the best reason to
believe that the rumour is altogether unfounded

—Globe.

THE COKE TRADE is making conside;ableT;ogref—sit;
the northern colliery district, and a class of coal which
formerly was of very little value is now become au impor-‘
taut article of commerce. From returns which have beett
recently published, it appears that in 1833 the whole of
the coke exported from this country only amounted to
4,008 tons ; 3,275 of this quantity being manufactured on
the banks of the Tyne, 73 tons at Sunderland, none at
Hartlepool or Stockton. Last year the'quantity exported
from the Tyne was 94,741 tons ; Sunderland, 21,490 tons