The Sun.
London, England, 1827-05-10 00:00:00

PORTUGUESE WATERMEN.

LISBON, MAY 2.—Last week I made short
excursion up the country, for the purpose both
of seeing the British troops and the inhabitants,
and though I met with disappointments, and had
a variety of inconveniences, the journey altogether
afforded many gratifications. It did not, to be
sure, tend to raise my idea of the industry or
activity of the people ; but it placed their moral
character in a much more favourable light than I
had been led to view it. Our party consisted
of four persons, Portuguese, Italian, Irish, and
Scotch. We hired a boat with four men, for a
moidore (a guinea), to take us from Lisbon to
Santarem, an ancient city, about 50 miles north
east of Lisbon, on the banks of the Tagus. The
boatmen here are reckoned the most worthless
class of the community ; but the same may be
said of the watermen of every country, and,
as far as I have had an opportunity of judg-
ing, I would place those of England at the head
of the class. No such instances of violence
and extortion are to be met with here as at
Gravesend and other places on the banks of the
Thames. You must make your bargain to be
sure, else a fiery dispute may be expected—
though I have met with instances in which they
appeared quite satisfied with what was given.
There is such a flow of spirits too about them,
and such vivacity and good humour, that one
willingly excuses their hasty, ardent temper in a
quarrel, and would willingly give them two shil-
lings, for one that he gives to sullen, sulky
watermen of other countries, who hardly say a
word in half an hour. Like most persons of
their description, they are much given to swear-
ing, but their oaths are not half so coarse as
those either of France or England. When scold-
ing one another, the worst epithet they use is
filho de puta, which may be translated " son of
a harlot." This is their favourite oath, and
they use it so often, and apply it at times so
ridiculously, that it is impossible but to join
in the laugh. The man at ,the helm says,
apparently with great gratitude, gram a
Deos (thanks to God), when the boat, in
tacking, obeys the helm, and the next moment
will call the wind a flit° de puta, for not car-
rying her forward. There is a great familiarity
between the master and those under his autho-
rity ; and they argue with one another at times
with so much warmth and freedom of expression,
that one could not say which was master. A
delightful noise to be sure they make, and such
shrugs of the shoulder—such gesticulation—and
such grimaces, that none but Neapolitans could
surpass them. Talking is their great delight.
On one occasion, in which I made a voyage in a
falua,. the man at the helm spoke for an hour
without intermission ; and when another boat
runs foul of them, or even crosses their course,
they all set up such a yelping, and grumbling,
and growling, and continue it so long, and when
none in the other boat can hear a word that is
said, that I can compare it to nothing but
the noise of a pack of hounds in a kennel
when disturbed at midnight. Well, we left Lisbon
a little after daylight, on a fine warm sunshine
morning ; the sky was clear, there was not the
least vestage of a cloud. The hills at twelve
miles distance were seen so distinctly, that a na-
tive of Britain would suppose them quite at hand.
The wind and tide were in our favour, and every
thing conspired to excite that sort of feeling,
which Johnson luxuriated in so much when
driving along at full speed in a coach, and which '1
he considered for the moment the sztnzmum
bonum, The Tagus above Lisbon is from .a
mile and a half to three miles in breadth, and
quite as muddy as the Thames at London.
The tide flows about forty miles above the
city. It abounds with a variety of fish, none
of which, as far as I have hid an opportu-
nity of judging, have much to recommend
them ; but they afford a cheap food for the
nation, and give employment to a great num-
ber of fishermen. The largest and most com-
mon is about the size and shape of a small
salmon, and resembles it somewhat in taste.
On the right bank of the river, up to Alliandra,
.a small town about 16 miles from Lisbon, and
close to the lines of the Torres Vedras, there is
a pretty high ridge of mountains chiefly covered
with olive trees and vines, with a few villages
scattered along the plain, which produce wheat,
oranges and grapes, On the other side is an
extensive plain, with a high ridge of mountains,
terminated by a little romantic looking bill, on
which the' town of Palmella is built, and which
overhangs St. Uhe's. At Alliandra, the lines
of Torres
.Vedras are distinctly seen in most
places, and in others quite entire. They run along
the edge of a range of hills, and consist of a ditch
and mound of turf, with irregular projections at
certain distances. A narrow valley, or rather
glen, which lies below them, formed the line of de-
marcation, between the British and French troops.
Alliandra, which was in possession of the French,
is but a few hundred feet from the extremity of

the lines. Above this place there are extensive
plains on each bank, with a few straggling pop-
lars and willows close to the river, and, in the
interior, long extensive tracts of wheat or grass
land, with flocks of young horses, oxen, sheep,
goats, and swine, feeding. The oxen are gene-
rally of a dark brown, are uncommonly well
Shaped and in good condition, and are altogether
the finest animals in the country. The pigs are
all black, aro middle-sized, and apparently of an
excellent breed. The sheep, too, are black, but
neither they nor the horses thrive in this warm
climate. The river abounds with numerous
islands and sand-banks. When within about
ten miles of our destination, and the rain was
falling in torrents, the boatmen began to repent
of their bargain, and invented a number of ex-
cuses for making the best of our way back to
the nearest town ; but, by a little persuasion: and
no little squabbling, they were induced to pro-
ceed, and we arrived at our destination at five.

IMPERIAL PARLIAMENT.

HOUSE OF LORDS, MAY 9.

Their Lordship met at four o'clock, and for a consider-
able time were engaged in ballotting for the Peers who
were to hear appeals.

GAME LAWS.'

Lord WHARNCLIFFE gave notice that he would, on
Friday next, move that the Report of the Game Laws
Bill he taken into consideration. Their Lordships were
directed to be summoned for that day.

Mr. JOHNSON presented papers from the office of
Chief Secretary for Ireland.
Mr. CLARK presented the Annual Accounts of the
Revenues and Charges of the East India Company, pur-
suant to an order of their Lordships.