The Sun.
London, England, 1827-03-26 00:00:00

CLARK'S SCHOOL ATLASES.

Both Ancient and Modern, which, for Clearness, Accu-
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On the 31st Inst. will he published,
THE FIRST NUMBER of the QUAR-
TERLY JOURNAL of SCIENCE, LITERA-
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By W. T. BRANDE,ESQ. F. R. S., Prof. Chem.

It. I. &c.

Printed for Henry C,olburn, New Burlington-street.
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This Work will in future be conducted upon a more
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No man ever longed more for his dinner than we
for tho pleasure of carving F. good Cookery book,
and Mr. Colburn has at length sent us one so
full of choice things, that at every other page
we are tempted to cut and come again. People
may talk as they like about politics, and church, and
an-
state, and " no Popery," and supporting the Co
stitution, and so forth; but we take the liberty to
say, that no constitution could stand a day without
the support of cookery. Indeed, so paramount is
this learned art, that gentlemen of the long robe
,cannot take up their degrees without eating their way
to the bar of justice, for it is wisely considered, that
a hungry lawyer has no stomach for a dry brief.. With.
out the art of cooking, we should be all savages
the march of intellect is entirely indebted to good
cooking, and the invention of steam was first known
by the boiling of a pot of potatoes, which felt so
elated with the mighty secret, that they actually
burst their jackets in laying the discovery before the
cook. And thus knowledge will boil on till every
man becomes his own cook. It may well be said
that a good coek is the salt of good company, for
he's always in season.
A great statesman fond of immortality, once said,
" give me the songs of a nation, and let who wil
make the laws," but he forgot that every bird likes
its own song best, whereas, had he made a cookery
book, lie would be sure to please every taste. But
statesmen are sad cooks after all—their dishes area
too saucy to be relished, and too ambiguous to suit
the palate of their guests, for they are so apt to
make flesh of the one And fish of the other, that
neither is satisfied. No doubt they go upon the gene-
ral principle that what's good for the goose is good for
the gander; but this mistake would never have hap;
pened did they consult other people's taste before their
own. Now, a good cook would make the best
Prime Minister in the world, provided he had not a
Fiench taste, for in all matters of state he would be
quite at hopte, and make all his acts as familiar to
the people as household words. He would possess
this prime advantage over his predecessors, that his
speeches would never go to pot, but be devoured
with a good appetite; and as all good sayings mole
of the kitchen, he could always keep up the blaze
of his own reputation, because his sayings and doings
would be sure to set the table in a roar. Indeed
our kitchen maxims are the most substantial of any,
provided there be not too much economy in their
composition; but every boy knows that the proof
of the pudding is in the eating; and he never
quarrels with the cook, because he's sure to get pep-
pered for his pains., Indeed, no man of sense likes
to offend his cook, for fear of getting a warm reception,
and to attempt to teach one his duty, would be jump
big out of the frying-pan into the fire—and the kitchens
would be in a pretty stew while the coppers were
hot ! We almost hear the piquant rebuff of the
offended artist (for cooks are the most saucy of any)
1 boiling out in " Blow my kites, but I'll cook him for
their and no prophecy was ever better fulfilled, for
the cook would accomplish it, if he burst his
own fingers in roasting his master, who would have
no cause to boast of potluck in his culinary visita-
tion. In former times good cooks were so scarce as
to give rise to the adage, that " heaven sends us
meat, but the devil sends us cooks," but then
cookery books were not in fashion. Like misers
every man kept his knowledge to himself, and
thus deprived many a worthy man of the plea-
sure of a good dinner. That was the age of
monopoly, happily illustrative of the dog in the
manger; but this is the day spring of free trade,
when cook-shops are as plentiful as potatoes, and
cookery books as numerous as petitions upon the
Catholic Question. The art of cooking is as old as
the hills; but the dishes of other days have become
too stale for us. Eve ceoked her own potatoes
in such a way, that poor Adam, like Dennis
Brulgruddery, could not relish them for want of salt
herrings. But Eve was an indifferent cook, although
she had birds of paradise to blow the fire. Her
apple pies were the most celebrated of all her at-
tempts at cooking, and this gift she bequeathed to
her daughters which accounts for ladies making
the best fruit pies. It is said somewhere in this
cookery-book, but we forget the page, that Adam
was very uncomfortable in his domestic concerns,
and once when he wanted Eve to cook his dinner,
she not being then in the mood, because the fire
uhsaeda a husb
gone out,
p
, toldhreirmugstotcioro:
and insisted upon her it himself as he found
fault with his breakfast. Upon this refusal, he
compliance, but the lady was in the pet, and tanta-
lised him with repeating" Cook you I—Cook you !"
—till P. bird who overheard the altercation, for want
of better amusement, took up the wards, and sung
cookoo ! cookoo! which so enraged Adam, that lie
punished the bird by changing its name, and or
fond husbands and disobedient spouses.
But we have said enough in praise of
cookery, and its worthy professors—in France
dared it to sing eeokoo for ever
gentlemen cook, but in England the ladies follow
of the
that useful vocation, and as in duty bound we give
as a warning to
our
flummery
moment
dt
oa :van
toge-
ther.
fair countrywomen the preference. Indeed our
pertthrienzgceol-f
Dkninonweirngis ctihtiezeransOsart
hence in this respect, that those Aldermen who marry
event' in a man's life,
date from dinner time.
a second time invariably select their own cooks--
And feeling the force of a housekeePies eyes,
Make love to the Queen of tbe Kitchen !
and things
In England n
importance is ever trans*
and then good winected till after dinner.
—The Lord Mayor always dines before he
astonishes the citizens with a speech worth hearing,
A worthy meads f ours, who enjoys a good
dinner as well as gg& one, holds it
-- as great
a sin to be merry before Inner as to be sober after
it. A man who invites one to a bad dinner, ought
to be barbecued alive7Fie 0 is no mercy for him
Guildhall.
.. Dr. Paris ;
out ofi 3 a sad cook
in his way` people people to take no more
than they cal eat' .55 it spoils their appetite ! So
much for his treatise on diet, which the public have
almost devoured__ Without. the Doctor's prescription.
The merits of
.this book are very easily digested,
except the estimates to live b find
v • most people
the difficulty not i • • '
n squaring the estimates to the
and greatest
I
i but
wean., the means to the estimates; and with
this remark the
dismiss the art of cookery for the
benefit of absentees, who will find their travelling
expences atthe before
end of the book, and probably
the end of th • •
ell. journey.
eimspoortanfulltof
their
superior

upgsatefu 1 office; the
makes up for
LETTERS FROM COCKNEY LANDS.
is, in nine
Wirii.th statue of the
London, 1827, pp.
tenth
cases
outCriticism,ca
case,
oe,f
ten,
however,
sno observed,
,wheaarsechb,ansleiknkieewoet,hUsn
the deficiencies of the rest, the task of the critic
"Arabian Nights" not
of welcome and unqualified
being throughout, a task
For ourselves, we happen just now
approbation. ,.
e recucament. A little book,
to be in this fortunat p
entitled, " Letter from Cockney Lands," and Bona_
dressed by their author to a gentleman whom he
poetically calls " Ned," was yesterday put into
our bands, and on threading its contents, we find
that it ie the one deserving out of ten un-
deserving cases, the " inter mille millcssimus." Of
course, therefore, our task of analysis is delightfnl---.
“ quite refreshing"—in short, and we hasten with
all the enthusiasm of a good heart, to communicate
a small portion of our extreme felicity to the public.
The Letters (two in number) are supposed to be
written, the first from London ; the second from
Brighton, and in both instances to describe local p'
culiarities. These, it must be confessed, are hit
with inimitable spirit; and at the same t.
with all the agreeable confusion of Johnson's
tionarv—that most complicated of love-tales.

Brighton,' Saint Petersburgh. This, however, in
far from being a blemish, it is x t)ositive beauty, fc r
Aristotle has expressly declared that the. great end
of writing Is to afford food for enquiry, and we
defy any one to read these letters, and not enquire at
the very second page what the writer is about ; what
is" his meaning, what plate be is describing, and
where he has received his education. But, perhaps,
he is vague and confused, solely to avert the conse-
quences of his sarcasm : perhaps he thinkseunning
dog--ti.at were it• by. any misfortune to go abroad
that it was London—poor harmless inoffensive
Loridon—that he was so bitterly vilipending, the
whole population would at once rise and macada-
mize him, like Saint Stephen, to death. Now, we
'assure him, that he need be under so such
serious apprehension; neither London nor Brighton
(as far las we can learn) are likely to maltreat him,
for this especial reason, that the very fact of his
existence will most probably continue a secret, ex-
cept to the shelves of his bookseller. It is not our
intention to follow this exceeding genius, page by
page, through his duodecimo; we rather prefer, like
industrious bees, to hop from flower to flower, and
collect the scattered sweets of his volume for the
gratification of our readers, by which rambling pro-
cess we not only do our author more justice, but
ourselves more honour as critics; for be it known, that
in his very first letter he has attacked us and our
vocation, observing, with no less elegance than
poetry, that
A gibe or joke obscene on any,
The press attack, to turn a penny.—p. 22.
We do not think we have seen the words marked
Ti Italics is " Milton's Paradise Lost ;" indeed we
are clearly of opinion that they are original. But
to return : as our limits are unfortunately restricted,
,ve shall not here detail at full length the peculiar
beauties of our author's intellect, but rather prefer
giving, as we observed above, sundry choice speci-
mens—" Elegant Extracts"—of his astonishing and
versatile abilities; and
Ist. His reasons for publishing:—
'Tis for the pleasures that attend
• - A finish'd labour, to unbend
One's fingers, stretch and view the rows
Oar pen has raised."—P. 1.
We have heard of some authors who have pub-
lished for the sake of profit; others for mere amuse-
inent; others, more praise-worthy still, for fame;
never vet dicl we hear of a gentleman who wrote
. zi, book. for the sakt, of unbending his fingers. The
idea is eminently happy. • •
Our next «d) specimen is one of graeeful rythm.
Mize arts 'here show their lovely faces,
. , its (Lond,n's) public-houses. " Th' Horns"
YAP!, know I hated—where the morn's
I...%ass'd among calls, the ev'ning spent
hlong sets.—p. 9.
- Of classical verbal abridgements.
P'rhaps these thoughts upon
Our country taps and so, won't do
For what we dub club-houses.—Pooh I !—(Exquisite. )
The house is fit for any ; this
Keeps castes together, like La Trappe's
And other single men schools, p'rhaps !--p. 10.
4. Of colloquial elegance. •

And there to meet you,
Your female relatives, who treat vou
music, when you're out of sorts.—p. 11.
5., Oi shrewd observation (speaking of the Opera.)
But, in fact,
'TI as said at first--to hear it
You mn,t Zee present.-_p. 12.—(Indeed !)
• 6. Of correct and ingenious metaphor
:
" A wedded one of beauty rz.re,
Aye, ' beauteous as a thousand pearl','
' Tis Sancho', Simile, how it curls
About one's heart."--p. 16.
We here call imperatively on our readers to ad-
mirethe bold, original; and figurative beauty contained
jrt.the idea of a simile curling round one's heart, it is
as good as the gentleman who put his hands in his
breeches' pockets like a crocodile. But we must
not. digress from our subject, so to, resume, our
seventh specimen is one
Of dignified and hixuriant diction :-
1 %t up a Paper, seek the ton,
Give out-my *caudal and
'Twoulfl he the wi,3er, that is richer,
And tho' 'twouldturn to a crach'd pitcher,
!try, character will well enough
Contain this thick slab pudding stuff.
We gorge on 'yclept luxury,
While streams of health and joy go dry.--i-P. 25.
a Of pathetic, meditation :
What is the world,
When from-yoUr siihere you have been hurled,
- • To skull: in threadbare, be the scoff
Of every one who'sbater 49,
9. Of candid simplicity
1 fear this beats your comprehension, •
I think myself, with some sttentikn,
mi:7llt know what I mean, but really,
How to treat them I don't see clearly—P. 57.
10. Of attic wit :

---- I will
Just notice him the fourth, Its it
Rsicle the coachman, but would that
With us, retailing out the news
From noseent Coachee.—P. 67.
11.—Of a broad hint
A third, I trod
Upon his eye to make him speak,
He knew less of the road than Greek.—P. 67.
12. Of awful sarcasm—
A stuffing swilling author 'll think
But to champaigne to turn his ink,*
His grossness is in every Hoe,
A hiccup or a yawn."—p. 92.
Really, Juvenal has nothing equal to this in seve-
rity ; Pope in point, nor Johnson in dignity. It
stands by itself m stern unapproachable originality.
Ohr 13th specimen ; (equally meritorious) is one
of elegant parallel.

You're seen
How this is alter'd now, no more
Of mind in books, than in a score

Of mutton chops..---p. 95.

. _
14: 0-fgraininatical beauty—
The youth who scat.ci, has foliow'd yet one comrade's bier,
While sterner eyes can scarce refrain,
Recalls the tales on watch, and drops a tear,
For he, the Soldier's friend.--p. 100.
This last specimen, much as we admire its beauty,
is: yet, we are concerned to state, a manifest plagia-
rism from an equally affecting composition which
Mr. Liston sings in the character of Lord Doodle:
en voici,—; _

There I met this charming she
Frying sausages for he.
In conclusion, we have now, we think, established
the position with which we set out; viz. that these
Letters from Cockney Lands, are singularly and
beautifully meritorious. Their eloquence, we should
add, is fully equal to that. of Lord Grizzle in Tom
Thuinb ; their vivacity, to a charity sermon ; and
their attic humour, to one of Mr. Joseph Hume's
financial orations. The author, to be sure, is not
exactly a Milton, but neither are we an Aristotle ;
let it suffice then to observe, that he is a young gem-
tleruan of exceeding genius, and as he publishes for
the mere purpose of unbending his fingers, we are
bound to respect the modesty that, with such ex-
alted ability, prescribes for itself no higher object of
attainment.