The Sun.
London, England, 1859-04-12 00:00:00

LITERATURE.

The Handbook, of Dining ; or, How to Dine•
Theoretically, Philosophically, and Historically
considered. By L. F. Simpson, M,R.S.L. Long
man and Co.

Man has long been, distinguished as " a cooking
animal," and there appears to be little chance of his
especial characteristic being lost, if we may judge
by the important letters lately published in the
Times, written by suffering and sapient being?,
who bemoan the misery of eternal " dim soup,
boiled turbot, chickens and ham, roasted haunches,
common-place blancmanges, and vulgar plum-pud-
dings. We confess that we have always held the
" stomach" in great respect, and considered its de-
mands as being paramount, especially with the
" superior set." Breeches pockets are buttoned up
in the face of charity—electioneering interest dog-
gedly withheld, and stern reserve kept sullenly in
the ascendant, until steaming viands and flowing
beakers have exerted their magic influence
over tonguesofhum ananafeelhienagrts,guasnhdinsgelty
free.tlfroszeirn
rills _
loins, wild ducks, truffles, port, and diamond-
studded champagne have wonderful effect ill
quickening benevoence, inspiring patriotism, 'and•
bofut,,mgauscthronasornwyep know of this
constitute such a wede
ified scarcelyari d
nsemhniagagrioitesilynseiiannsggu ibtthree cimttto: as it evidently does. Men seem
to think more of their dinners than women of their
dress; and it may be a question whether to disap-
point a country gentleman of his grouse and claret,
or a city alderman of his turtle and punch,
would.
not insure a worse state of temper than the crush-
ing of a young lady's best bonnet, or the non-
fitting of a ball-dress. A "spread," a " Wren," a
" supper," a " wincing," or any recherche meal of
luxurious temptation has ever been found to carry
great weight with " men," inclusive of Dr. Johnson,
who revelled in an unknown quantity of lobster-
sauce poured over his rich plum-pudding ; and the
great Napoleon, who fumed and stormed because he
could not be served with his favourite dish, com-
posed of the loins of certain singing birds: The
book before us is chiefly based on the " Physiolog:ie
du Gout," of that " particular star" in the cuisine
galaxy—Brillat Savarin—and contains very little
of fresh interest or information, with the exception
of the declaration that it is a " great disaster" for
bodies to be thin, and accordingly we meet with t.ll°
following rules to be observed by the unhapPY
feminines who are not beautifully round in form
,c Eat a quantity of fresh bread—the same day's baking
—and do not throw away the crumb.
" Before eight a.m., when in bed, take a basin of soup
(potage au pain or aux pates), not too much, or, if you Pre"
far it, a cup of good chocolate.
" Breakfast at eleven. Fresh eggs, boiled or paaellea"
petispates, cutlets, or anything else; but eggs are essento."'
A cup of coffee will not hurt.
" After breakfast, take a little exercise. Go shopping?
or call on a friend, sit and chat, and walk home again. Like,
"At dinner, eat as much soup, meat, and fish as you
but do not omit to eat the rice with the fowl, macar°'
sweet pastry, creams, &c.
"At dessert, savoy biscuits, babas' and other farinaceell°
preparations which contain eggs and sugar.
" This diet may seem limited, but it is capable of great
variation, and comprises the whole animal kingdom. a
" Drink beer by preference; otherwise Bordeaux, or sy,lll-
from the south of France.
" Avoid acids ; except salad, which gladdens the heart'
Eat sugar with your fruit, if it admits of it. Do not take
baths too cold; breathe the fresh air of the country as °ill
as you can ; eat plenty of grapes when in season ; do 11°
fatigue yourself by dancing at a ball.
" Go to bed at eleven o'clock ; on extra nights bo in bed
by one.
If this system is boldly and exactly adhered to, 012,
failings of nature will soon be supplied ; health and bean'',
will be the result.
" We fatten sheep, calves, oxen, poultry, carp, cra4,513,,1
oysters, whence I deduct the general maxim :—‘Bire-"ii
thing that' eats can be fattened, provided the food is No"
and suitably chosen.' "
Othrlis the
eoowk
hoonl et
the
ee
worthca nn
of cannot complimenthispu cproduction.,
otn.hO arru
ht hc_roder
of
is little of original matter in it to enlighten, au...
Much that is trifling and silly; but perhaps it wr,,
concoctedeiely t
on
~ sell."nthe principle of Peter Pindar's razo
—in,

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