The Sun.
London, England, 1857-01-06 00:00:00

the long table about seven o'clock next morning,
we encountered the most hostile expression
and looks on the faces of those three unhappy
gentlemen, who surveyed us with great severity of
countenance while we essayed to wash (all three)
in a small mug with a pint of water in the bottom
of it. After some time they got tired of this, and
took to smoking and spitting on the floor instead,
all but a militiaoffieer, who came over and minutely,
inspected our clothes, brushes, soap-dish, and tra-
velling bags. Of course the first thing after break-
fast that one would wish to see in visiting Tula was
the Government manufactory. There is, it appearF,
some controversy respecting the quality of the arms
made at Tula. So far as my poor opinion goes, it
is decidedly inferior to that of the arms of any
other country with which lam acquainted. The
heavy cavalry sabres are the only decent specimen
of Russian manufactures I ever saw, and they are
principally made in Siberia. If any one wishes to
see what a Russian musket is like, he has only to
visit any of our public exhibitions and to judge for
himself. He will find the stocks ill-made, old-
fashioned, the woodwork very badly executed, the
locks indifferent, and as for the barrel, which may
be the best part of the piece, ho will find that it
will bend very readily from a smart blow (that is,
if the proprietors can allow him to make the expe-
rimentuna in corpore), and that, however good the
iron may be, it possesses nothing of the durability
of our hardened barrels, which are yet soft enough
for the proper resistance of the charge. After the
Alma our men destroyed thousands of stands of
arms by taking up the Russian firelock by the
muzzle and striking the stock against the ground.
Generally the wood at once broke, the lock flew
out, and the barrel curved round as though it were
lead. The stocks were found to be of a white wood
varnished black, and to be very small at the shoul-
der plate, so that the recoil must be rather sharp
at the shoulder.

(From Special Correspondent of the Times. )
At half-past 11 o'clock at night Tula seemed the
last place in the world to suggest comparisons of
either Sheffield or Birmingham. It was as silent
and as lifeless as a village on the steppe, and almost
as dark. As our carriage rumbled, creaked, and
jolted through the long, broad, straight streets, the
faint and infrequent lamps by the kerbstones only
revealed the white walls of the long lines of two-
storied stucco houses, some mouldering and splatchy
with decaying window-frames and ricketty doors,
others rejoicing in the hollow glories of a new coat
of plaster, and displaying new rampant lions and
griffins and eagles in plaster on their portals, which
the action of a few winters will reduce into the most
unintelligible, terse, and fragmentary chaos. Not
a soul was visible except the usual watchmen rous-
ing out of his box as the tarantasse came near, and
shouldering his halberd and uttering strange chal-
lenges, with a poor affectation of vigilance as we
passed. No glare in the sky, reflected from active
centre of life and heat below, spoke of skill and
industry still working, watchful and energetic ; no
long tongues of flame from slender-necked chim-
neys licked the heavens into a fiery glow ; no dull,
heavy thud or ponderous anvil pulse warned us
that the heart of labour was beating strong, full,
and honest in that wide expanse of human habita-
tions ; in fact, anything so unlike Sheffield as
as Tula could not be imagined. We had a long
gingling drive through any number of versts of
muddy streets, and then a sudden halt at a huge
and prison-looking building, at which our courier
dismounted from his cold perch, and from
which emerged a hairy-hooded mujik waiter, the
staple of whose conversation was the eternal "Niet,
niet" (No !no !). Indeed if it be true that
the first notion of a Frenchman on gaining
possession, temporary or in permanence, of the
smallest patch of terra firma, is to stick up a board
with " C'est defendu de," something or other upon
it, there is a sort of moral link between him and
the Ruski, whose ruling principle is contained in
the word "Niet" (pronounced Kneeate) which
serves him everywhereforthe obstruction olliberty,
progress, travelling, civilisation, and comfort.
Here it succeeded for a short time. We were told
there was a "Holshoi Gortinnitza" further on,
and we resumed our track through the mud pro-
found till the tarantasse arrived at a narrow lane
—the first we had seen for some months—which
absolutely refused to receive the work of the Mos-
cow Long-acre within its aperture. The driver per-
sisted for some time in his efforts to force a taran-
tasse some six feet wide into a space only five feet
wide, but suddenly it seemed to strike him as a
difficult thing to do so early in the morning, and
he pulled his horses up short at the opposite side of
the street. The result of a desperate consultation
in German was that we should drive back to the inn
we had left, for coachee did not know where the
big hotel (or the Holshoi Gortinnitza) was situated.
and we could see no one to ask. Indeed we just
recollected that one piece of advice given to us by
a Russian was never to ask any questions if we
wanted to see anything or do anything, for we
should be sure to be stopped or refused,but that if
one acted in Russia as if he had the right on his
side, every one would suppose he had, and no man
would presume to stop him. Through deep pools
of mud and lifeless streets we worked our way, and
pulled up once more at the entrance to the hotel,
from the first-floor windows of which there was a
feeble gleam of lights. As we walked up the stone
staircase, greasy and covered with mud, there was The Captain (M'Kinnon) of this vessel has pub.
a feeble attempt to arrest us by some man who lished the following account of the loss of his ship
lived in a hole at the basement, but we paid no at- on the American coast :
tention to him, and succeeded in groping our way "We sailed from Liverpool on Thursday, Nov.
into the eating saloon, from which the light pro- 13, with a stiff breeze from the north-east. We ex-
ceeded, guided thereto by a, clink of glasses, and a Perieaced rery heavy weather the entire passage.
strong odour of tobacco. It was a long room, fur- Had not more than two or three good observations.
nished with a table in the centre, 2 or 3 small side On the 19th inst., in long. 72 20, lat. 39 20, dead
tables, and two straight-backed stiff leather sofas. reckoning, we were hailed by the bark Eagle, of
The table was covered with a cloth foul from the Boston. She inquired where we were bound. We
s
stains and exuvias of many meals ; the floor was spoke them, and they said they were from Nazaite
New York, being out of everything. I found we
strewed with papiros (cigarette) ends, and was so (France), 90 days out, and were trying to make
dirty that it was impossible to ascertain whether it
was wood or stone. At the sides of the table were were 20 miles to the eastward and 20 miles to the
seated some half-dozen persons—two of them offi- northward of his reckoning. After passing the bark
cers, eating their supper, smoking lustily, and at it occurred to me that I had done wrong. I hove
the end of the room a small family party were en- my mizentopsail back, and asked him if I could be
gaged at tea, the prominent member of which, a of any assistance. He answered that he wanted
baby in full cry, maintained its position with un- water; he also stated that they had lost their boat.
flagging spirit—as we found out afterwards—till I told him I had boats, and I immediately got a
an early hour in the morning. The first care of boat ready and went with provisions to the bark.
the long-booted waiter was to tell us we could not There was a high wind from the north-east at the
sleep there ; his second was to signify that we time. On returning to my vessel I altered my reek-
could get nothing to eat. However, with that oning so that it compared with that of the bark.
courtesy whiich is, I am bound to say, unfailing My first mate asked me if I was not steering too
among educated Russians, one of the officers came high. I told him I thought not, and it proved that
- I was right afterwards. From this time until within
to our help, and, addressing us in French to ascer
15 minutes of the time we struck we had been run-
his words, and ourselves to get a supper, which tarn our wants, soon caused the Tchevelek to eat
nine north-west by north. On Friday night, the
was hot and welcome—even although it consisted 19th inst., we were sailing on in this course when I
noticed several vessels' lights. The weather was
of cabbage soup and tough pig. In the midst of
it our courier came in to inform us that the taran- thick and blowing hard. I thought we were about
130 miles from land. Soon afterwards we noticed a
Ws° had various strains which would require
l caulking, and divers inj cries demanding immediate light, which proved to be the lighthouse at Barne-
repair. Soon after midnight the company was re- gat. It came upon us all at once, and we thought
nforced by the arrival of a party who had just it a vessel's light. The mate and myself thought
arrived in post carts from Kharhoff, and who t might be a pilotboat. We were without a pilot,
seemed jaded and dirty, and soon proved that they and I let her lull two points, steering north-
were hungry. One of them, an elderly man, after west-by-north. I then sent a man aloft, and he
a long scrutiny, addressed us in English, and began stated that it looked like laud ahead. I cried out,
filled ou the other tack. Then I found that I
au interrogatory conversation in a style not un- ' Hard on the wheel.' The ship came about and
common in lt assia an,d,
To
AreN y00.,u, g,o,iTngo
South ?" " Yes." was right in the breakers. I told the mate not to
say anything, but to keep quiet, and I thought she
, , ‘N` Ao
.h”, a?, dAba,rethyeonu,
sco"wY?e"s," would go off. The mate then called all hands, and
returningK harkff'
you are going to Odessa ?" and so on till it was we braced the after yards, so as to fall off shore
our tur to ask questions, and we found out gradually. I steered the head yards as long as I
that he was an Englishman long settled in could without making sternway, so as not to pay off
tthoenm?:
Russia ; so long, indeed, that he had forgot- too fast. I kept up my after sails and set the
tea his country, but without acquiring any spanker. I thought then she would go off, but as
love for that which be had adopted, although soon as she filled away she fell broadside on. She
he had a great notion of her power and of struck very easy on her larboord side, but after-
her future destiny. Still he had been so twitted wards we experienCed some hard knocks. Her stern
by his Muscovite friends about the failure of our was then gradually driven shorewards to the posi-
assaults on the Redan that he was very anxious to tion in which she now lies. It was about 20 minutes
know the cause of our want of success, for, said before 12 o'clock on Friday night when she struck.
he, " though I know the *Russian is brave, and As soon as it was known great excitement among
will fight till he is shot or bayonetted, I think an the passengers took place. The mate, however,
Englishman with fair play, and, above all, with , kept them quiet. I kept all the aftersail on the ship
such good arms as he has, will always be more than to see if the tido would not make and let her haul
a match for him." Again, there was a little out- ofl; but it was then about high water, and the
burst of nationality when ho asked " Why did you attempt failed. We then clewed up the sails, but
make peace so soon ? Another year, and Russia could not get the men to go aloft to furl them.
would have been driven to the last extremity, for The crew and passengers felt very much alarmed,
she would have had no clothing nor arms for her and it was very difficult to keep them quiet. In
soldiers ; her trained men were being fast used up, this condition we remained until Saturday morn-
and the pressure for men and beasts of burden was ing. The passengers behaved very well, but the
beginning- to be insupportable just as you made crew were very noisy. They refused to do anything.
peace." He told us he had been twice in the Saturday morning we cleared away the boat, and
Crimea during the war ; at one time just after the in endeavouring to get down the starboard quarter
battle of Balaklava, and he was " shocked,* when boat we stove her. We had five boats on board. I
he saw English dragoon helmets hawked as trophies sent men to bale her out, but they could not keep
about the towns of Southern Russia, and heard the her free. We then took the larboard quarter boat
enemy's account of our charge. These dragoon and coiled some line into her, in order to get a line
helmets must have belonged to the heavy cavalry- to the beach. The second mate (Cline) got into her
men who were dismounted by the fire of the Res- and attempted to get her ashore. We had a line
sian artillery early in the morning, and who throw fast to her from the deck, but the undertow was
them away as the cavalry retired out of range. He running very strong and prevented his landing.
described the approaches to the Crimea as pre- We then hauled him back again. He afterwards
seating scenes beyond conception or description, started again, and succeeded in getting ashore. He
and, judging from our subsequent experience, ho had in the boat 14 persons, five or six of whom
had good reason for what he said. Our friend was were passengers. After lie got on shore he found
apparently a cavalry contractor, or something of he could not return, and then, with the assistance
the sort, for he was very " horsey" in his talk, of the wreckers, who had come down at daybreak,
and described the condition of the poor quadrupeds he hauled the line ashore. Finding that the boat
iu moving terms. " The nobles and serfs were could not come off again, the first mate, Stowell,
alike distressed and miserable ; the prices of food took the other larboard boat ashore, and succeeded
were rising every day, and as for the hosses, it was in landing with 16 of the passengers and crew. The
really dreadful." The roads had become like the first mate then made several attempts to return,
bottoms of half-drained canals, and the whole coun- but found it was impossible. By this time those
try was cut up for miles by the passage of carts and remaining on the ship were very much alarmed. I
beasts of burden in search of firm ground, and better next cleared away the starboard boat forward, and
tracks to and from the Crimea. According to him took 18 in her and went ashore. These were all
the Perekop route was the most frequented, as the thst could be landed on Saturday. There were
country near Tchongar became so deep after a few quite a number of women in each of these boats.
months' traffic, or a few days of bad weather, After the last boat landed it became very rough,
that it was impossible to use it. Onry couriers, and the hawser, which was run ashore, parted. I
Government messengers, and light carts traversed then told the wreckers on the beach that if they
it till the country dried up, or was hardened by the would furnish me with men I would go off to the
frost or the sun. It was his opinion that there was ship. They said it was impossible, and I was
a considerable difference made in the treatment of somewhat of their opinion. But I felt it would
the French and English prisoners in favour of the give some encouragement to the frightened passen-
former, and that it was in consequence of orders gers. I would at that time have as lief die as live.
from head quarters, and done with a purpose, and I finally got a picked crew of my men and the
this assertion was corroborated by reports which 1 wreckers, and started. I succeeded very well till
heard afterwards at Odessa. All this, and much I got to the outer breakers, and then I had to go
more, was doled out to us in broken words, and back. By this time it began to grow dark, and we
with many glances at his companions and at the hauled the boats up for the night. When the se-
rest of the people in the room, and the poor man cond mate landed the wreckers told him that there
would have been horribly frightened had he known Was a life car four miles off, and a party went after
he was talking to your special correspondent, but . it. The car came while I was on the beach. The
he had no cause to fear, for I could give him a undertow was so strong that we could do no more
most satisfactory certificate of attachment to the that night. We then went about four miles to the
Russian Government, although he did not like 1 stationhouse and procured a lifeboat, and brought
their habits of procrastination in the matter of ' it down on a waggon so as to have it ready in the
roubles or the smallness of their pay in public '
, morning. We remained at the stationhouse all
departments. I might have learnt much more ' night. On Sunday morning the first mate tried to
from him, but that the horses of his vehicle were at i get off to the ship. On the first attempt the boat
the door, and he had to continue his journey to capsized and he was very near breaking_ his leg.
Moscow. The rest of the company retired to bed, On the second attempt he succeeded. Then the
with the exception of the baby and its immediate ! wreckers and myself went off in the surfboat and
fancily circle, and we were left to shake down on the ! succeeded in running a line to the ship. We then
rigid sofas with hard and slippery leather covers, ' got the life car in readiness and commenced send-
which were much more severe than the floor, but ' ing the passengers ashore. We got all the passen-
the latter was impossible on account of thedirt, , gers and part of the baggage off that day. The
and so, with bones sore all over from bumping in day before I got provisions from the vessel for those
the tarantasse for two days over a rough causeway, ; ashore. On Saturday night, while shore,
on the
we stretched ourselves on our coats, propped our , crew had planned a mutiny, vsbic i Ithey
endea-
heads on writing desks or boots, and were soon voured to carry out on Sunday while we were
sound asleep—so sound indeed that, as we heard lauding the passengers. Most of
my crew were
next day, three Russian office*, who arrived about men I picked up in Liverpool,
and rather 'hard
& in the morning, complained to the waiter that they cases.' They were altogether a lawless set during
could not eat their breakfast, we snored so loud ! the whole voyage. On Sunday some of them at-
This may account for the fact that, as we rubbed tempted to plunder the passengers, but were pre-
our eyes, and looked out from our sofas on vented. They then undertook to pick a quarrel

The Russian bayonets are better than the fire-
locks, though they are rather to :> soft, and will
bend with a good thrust against a hard substance.
And yet they are proud of their supposed prowess
with the bayonet, and say—" We know our arms
are not equal to yours, but we depend on our
bayonets." It certainly was Suvaroff's favourite
weapon (his name in Russian is spelt "Cybapoba I"),
and he taught his regiments to use it himself. Any
of our officers who were at Alma or Inkerman can
recollect how easily the Russian firelocks were
broken and how bad many of them were. Their
rifles, made by J. P. Malherbe, of Liege, were ex-
cellent, but the muskets, which bore the Tula mark,
and had been originally flint, but were changed
to detonators, were far inferior to the French,
English, Turkish, or German percussion musket.
The Government has no doubt learnt this, and it
is intended at once to reorganise the manufactories
at Tula, and, as I heard, to place an American at
the head of the:. In that, at all events, the
Russians will have imitated our example. Calonel
Colt left Moscow a few days before we did to in-
spect the Tula works, with the view, ,I believe, of
introducing his machinery for pistol-making, but
Ido not know with what result. However, a re-
volver exactly on his principle was shown to us,
the price of which was somewhat less than 41., and
the manager of the magazine said that they had
made several thousands of them during the war
for the use of the army.