The Sun.
London, England, 1859-09-22 00:00:00

JAPAN.

The following is the bulk of Mr. L. Oliphant's
interesting paper on Japan, from which we printed
an extract yesterday :
With the exception of the accounts which have
from time to time been published by members of
the Dutch Factory at Decimbo, we know little more
of Japan than we did in the days of Queen Elizabeth,
when the old chronicler thus commences his descrip-
tion of the empire :—" Japonia may be said to be, as
it were, a body of many and sundry ilandes, of
all sorts of bignesse ; which Iles, as they are sepa-
rated in situation from the rest of the whole
worlde, so are they in like manner inhabited of
people most different from all others, both for
manners and custums." Even in those early days,
Jesuit missionaries had penetrated the country in
many directions, but their narratives consist oftener
of an account of their missionary labours than of the
field in which they were undertaken. They are
more careful to describe the miracles they per-
formed than the wonders of nature, and dilate rather
upon the number of converts made in a province
than upon its mineral or agricultural resources.
As books of reference to the geographer, they
are not, therefore, so valuable as those of
Kampfer, Liebold, Thumberg, and others, whose
opportunities were not so extensive, but whose
powers of observation are directed into a dif-
ferent channel. The empire of Japan is stated,
according to native authority to consist of up-
wards of three thousand islands. The great
majority of these, however, are uninhabited rocks:
The principal island is known to the natives as Dai
Nipon. The latter word Nipon is, doubtless, the
origin of the term Japan, now applied to the whole
group. The Chinese have called Nipon, " Jipun, the
Empire proceeding from the sun." Marco Polo
calls it Jypanger, but all these words have
clearly a common origin. Yesso, Kinsin, and
Sikok complete the group of larger islands, and
which contain a territorial superficies roughly esti-
mated at 160,000 square miles. To these must be added
the Japanese settlements in the neighbouring
island of Tarakai, where the boundary which divides
them from Russia, and marks the limit of that
spreading empire in this direction, remains yet un-
decided.

The general geographical features of Japan are
too well known to require any description at pre-
sent. Every Dutch author has given a list of the
eight tracts into which the empire is primarily
divided, of their subdivision into sixty-eight pro-
vinces, and of the re-division of these again into a
certain number of districts. They have, moreover,
furnished us with a general geographical- descrip-
tion of the physical character of some of these pro-
vinces, as derived from personal observation, on the
occasion of the Dutch mission to Yedo, which takes
place periodically throughout a long series of years.
These accounts have been translated into English,
and published by various compilers, who have for
the most part continued their series with repro-
ducing the same information. The three ports of the
empire visited by the mission, and which fell more
immediately under our observation, were Nagasaki,
situated in the Island of Kinsin ; Smieda, a port
opened by Commodore Perry on the promontory of
Idsa ; and Year', the capital city of the empire.
Of these Nagasaki is the one with which we have
been for the longest period familiar. In former
times it was a fishing village situated in the princi-
pality of Omura; it is now an imperial demesne, and
the most flourishing port in the empire. It owes its
origin to the establishment, at this advantageous
point, of a Portuguese settlement in the year 1569,
and its prosperity to the enlightened, policy pursued
by the Christian Prince of Omurs, in whose terri-
tory it was situated; while its transference to the
Crown was the result of political intrigues on
the part of the Portuguese settlers, in consequence
of which the celebrated Tageo Sama included it
among the lands appertaining to the Crown. Situated
almost at the westernmost extremity of the empire,
at the head of a deep land-locked harbour, and in
convenient proximity to some of the wealthiest and
most productive principalities in the empire, Na-
gasaki possesses great local advantages, and will
doubtless continue an important commercial empo-
rium even when the trade of the empire at large is
more fully developed, and has found an outlot through
other ports. The town is pleasantly situated on a
belt of level ground, which intervenes between the
water and the swelling hills, forming an amphi-
theatre of great scenic beauty ; their slopes terraced
with rice-fields ; their valleys heavily timbered, and
watered by gushing mountain streams; their pro-
jecting points crowned with temples or frowning
with batteries; everywhere cottages buried in fo-
liage reveal their existence by curling wreaths of
blue smoke ; in the creeks and inlets picturesque
boats lie moored ; sacred groves, approached by
rock-cut steps, or pleasure gardens tastefully laid
out, enchant the eye. The whole aspect of nature
is such as cannot fail to produce a most favourable
impression upon the mind of the stranger visiting
Japan for the first time.
The city itself contains a population of about
50,000, and consists of about 80 or 90 streets, run-
ning at right angles to each other—broad enough to
admit of the passage of wheeled vehicles, were any
to be seen in them—and kept scrupulously clean.
A canal intersects the city, spanned by 35 bridges,
of which 15 are handsomely constructed of stone.
The Dutch factory is placed upon a small fan-shaped
island about 200 yards in length, and conuccted
with the mainland by a bridge. Until recently, the
members of the factory were confined exclusively
to this limited area, and kept under a strict and
rigid surveillance. The old regime is now, however;
rapidly passing ; and the history of their imprison-
ment, of the indignities to which they were exposed,
and the insults they suffered, has already become a
matter of tradition.

Kinsin, or " the Island of Nine," in which Naga-
saki is situated, is so called because it is divided
into nine provinces. It contains an area of about
16,000 miles, being in extent nearly equal to Sar-
dinia. The provinces of which it is composed are—
Plzen, Tsikuzen, Tsikugo, Buzen, Bungo, Figo,
Oosom, Fingo, and Satsuma. I have enumerated
those by name not so much for the purpose ofin-
formation as to convey some idea of the words and
'n?,mes in the Japanese language. All these pro-
vinces are divided among many princes, who are
vassals or the empire. The supremacy, however,
in each is generally vested in a single family,
whose hereditary position among the aristocracy of
the country confers upon it a recognised ascend-
ancy.

The Kinsin, the most important of these princi-
palities, are Fizen and Satsuma. The .largest city
in the island, Saga, is the capital of Fizen and resi-
dence of its prince. Attached to this province there
are no fewer than 1,016 islands. One of these,
Firando, is interesting to us, from the fact that, in
the year 1613, an English factory was established
there, which,however, after a brief existence, failed,
in consequence of a combination of adverse circum-
stances to which it is not necessary here to allude,
more especially as we have no reason to anticipate
they will again arise to nip in theibud the commerce
that is rapidly growing in those regions. Sima-
barra is another part of this province possessing
historical interest. Its siege forms a celebrated but
melancholy episode in the history of Christianity
in Japan. 35,000 Roman Catholic Christians, who
had taken refuge within its waters, were bombarded
by the Dutch at the behest of the Japanese Govern-
ment, and utterly extermined.
In former days Nagasaki was comprised within
the limits of Fizen, and even now the defence of that
city, in time of war, devolves upon its prince. The
revenue of this high dignitary is stated to amount
to abount £360,000 a year. His territory is one of
the most productive in the empire, which will
account for this enormous revenue. Besides rice,
and various descriptions of grain, it pro-
duces tea, tobacco, and cotton, besides fruit of
. divers sorts. Among the most important of its
products, however, should be mentioned the veget-
able... tallow, one cargo of which has already reached
this country, and been disposed of at a large profit.
4131cmg its ineral productions are iron, sulphur,
einttbar, and marble. There is a coal mine at
Wukumoto which_ sonv of the Dutch mission have
descended.
judiciously
desceibe the mine as being well
and
ynawt.norrked, and the coal as being bitu-
minous in its
ac, stand made into coke for use.
Old Kampfer tells by way of illustrating
the volcanic nature of the country, of a coal mine
in this province which, thle•ouhn
as ,the carelessness of
the miners, took flre, and
enno.burningever
since. The nearest coal /nine is
exttneniosrie then. 7
miles from Nagasaki. Another very
distvaentoneAis
situated in Tsekugen, about 100 miles
very excellent description of porcelain clay is also
found here, and the European demand for eggshell
china, which is sold in great
,quantities at Nagasaki,
is chiefly supplied by the subjects of the Princes of
Lizen and Satsuma. The former ruler is, so far as we
could learn from our Dutch informant at Nagasaki,
a man of tolerably advanced views, and favourably
disposed towards foreigners. He has already
adopted many of our wisest inventions, but has not
succeeded in thoroughly divesting himself of old
prejudices. This was illustrated a short time
prior to our visit, by his refusal to allow the Dutch
to enter his territory to put up a. steam engine which
he himself had ordered out from Europe, to pump
water out of one of his coal mines. But the
Prince who has distinguished himself most notably
by his progressive views is his Highness of
Satsuma. Unfortunately, since our return to this
country, we have received intelligence of the death
of this most enlightened nobleman. A man of the
highest rank, of enormous wealth; of great politi-
cal influence, the Prince of Satsuma was ever ready .
to advance the interests a foreigners,
and to intro-
duce • into his oNfn state their
arts and inventions.
I was informed by a Dutch gentleman who had

• 1

visited him that he had established an electric test,
graph between his castle and Kagosina, the chief
city of his province, a distance of about three miles.
He has also extensive glass factories, and cannon
foundries, in which 800 workmen are employed.
Some idea may be formed of the scale upon which
his establishment was conducted, from the fact
that he possessed nine houses in Yedo, and always
travelled to that city with an escort of several
thousand men. He was nearly connected with the
royal family, his daughter being married to the
late Tycoon, or Temporal Emperor, whose demise
took place about the period of our arrival at Yedo.
A former prince of Satsuma was the conqueror
of the Lewehew Islands. The province of Satsuma
contains great quantities of sulphur, which may
form an important item in our trade with Japan.
At its southern extremity is situated the island of
Loogasina, or Sulphur Island, which is said to burn
incessantly. We did not pass within sight of it,
however. The mines on the island yield the Prince
of Satsuma an annual revenue of 200 chests of silver.
The whole of the island of Kinsin is eminently
volcanic, notwithstanding its general fertility and
varied products. Parts of it are wild and barren ;
the aspect of its shores and formation, and general
character of its mountains would betray its origin,
even did not incessant volcanic action exist to put
the matter beyond a doubt. There are no less than
five volcanoes active in this island alone ; they are
—Mitake, in the province of Satsuma; Kirisima
Yamma, in Fingo ; Asoyamma, in Figo ; Wunzler,
in Fizer ; and Tsurminyanma, in Mingo.
The most celebrated of these are the Kirisma
Yamma, and Wunzler, or the " High Mountains of
Warm Springs." I find, on referring to the Chi-
nese Repository, that in 1793 the summit of the
mountain sunk entirely down ; torrents of boiling
water issued from all parts of the deep cavity which
was thus formed, and the vapour arose like thick
smoke. In one of its eruptions it is recorded to
have destroyed the ill-fated city of Simabara, when
53,000 persons are said to have perished. Thera
are also many hot and sulphurous springs, which
are used as baths, and accounted to have great me-
dical qualities. To some of these curious supersti-
tions are attached. They are considered depart-
ments for punishment in the infernal regions. To
one which is covered at the top with a cream-like
froth, are consigned pastrycooks and confectioners
who practised adulteration while in life ; while de-
ceitful brewers pass a miserable existence in a
spring as thick and muddy as the beer and rakee
they. sold their customers. The Island of Kin-
sin is well watered; a hardy and industrious
population inhabit its fertile valleys; its lofty moun-
tain ranges contain scenes of great grandeur and
sublimity, while its shores, indented with deep and
secure harbours, and feathered with wood, owe
much of their picturesque beauty to the numerous
islands which stud those inland waters.

It is separated from the Island of Nipon by the
na•Tow Straits of VaNder Capellen or Simonerki,
which connects the Straits of the Corea with the
Purvonadei Sea. It was originally tho intention of
Lord Elgin to have explored on his return voyage
this most remarkable sheet of water, never yet
traversed by foreign keel, and which must afford a
most interesting field for surveys of a scientific
character, as also for general observation. Unfortu-
nately, however, our time did not admit of his put-
ting this design into execution. The S. sea is thickly
covered with islands, and was reported to us by the
Japanese as navigable for ships of large draught.
The large and important island of Sikok intervenes
between it and The North Pacific Ocean, with which
this sea is
,connected by the Straits of Bango on the
west, and the narrow channel of Kind on the east.
Sikok is, as its name implies, divided into four pro-
vinces. As, however, we did not even sight its shores,
we had no opportunity of obtaining any informa-
tion about it. It is about 150 miles long, with an
average breadth of 70 miles, and is computed to
contain about 20,000..square.miles.

- With the Suwoncla-Sea, however, we are more
closely interested, for upon its margin is the Port
of Hiogo, opened by the late treaty to the commerce

of the vest:

This port is situated in the Bay of Othosaka, oppo-
site to the celebrated city of that name, from which
it is 10 or 12 miles distant. The Japanese Govern-
ment have expended vast sums in their engi-
neering efforts to improve its once dangerous an-
chorage. A breakwater, which was erected at a
prodigious expense, and which cost the lives of
numbers of workmen, has proved sufficient for the
object for which it was designed. There is a tra-
dition that a superstition existed in connexion with
this dyke, to the effect that it would never be
finished, unless an individual could be found suffi-
ciently patriotic to allow himself to be buried in it.
A Japanese Curtius was not long in forthcoming, to
whom a debt of gratitude will be due in all time to
come, from every British ship that rides securely at
anchor behind the breakwater.

Hiogo has now become the port of Ohosaken and
Miaco, and will, in all probability, be the principal
port of European trade in the empire. The city is de-
scribed as equal in size to Nagasaki. When Kamp-
fer visited it lie found 300 junks at anchor in its
b2.y.

The Dutch describe Oshoka as a more attractive
resort even than Yedo. While this latter city maybe
regarded as the London of Japan, Ohosaka seems to
be its Paris. Here are the most celebrated theatres,
the most sumptuous tea houses, the most extensive
pleasure-gardens. It is the abode of luxury and
wealth, the favourite resort of fashionable Japanese
who come here to spend their time in gaiety and
pleasure. Ohosaka is one of the five Imperial cities,
and contains a vast population. It is situate on the
left bank of the Jedogawa, a stream which rises in
the Lake of 0 y, situate a day and a half's journey
in the interior. It is navigable for boats of large
tonnage as far as Aiiaco, and is spanned by nume-
rous handsome bridges.
The port of Hiago and city of Osaca will not be
opened to Europeans until the Ist of Jan. 1863.
The foreign residents will then be allowed to ex-
plore the country in any direction, for a distance of
25 miles, except towards Miaco, or, as it is more
properly called, Kioto. They will not be allowed
to approach nearer than 25 miles to this far-famed
city.

As the Dutch have constantly been in the habit
of passing through Kioto, it is probable that be-
fore very long this restriction will be removed, and
Europeans will be permitted to visit what is, with-
out question, the most interesting spot in the em-
pire. If Yedo is the London, and Ohosaka the
Paris, Kioto is certainly the Rome of Japan. It is
hero that the spiritual- Emperor resides, and that
enormous ecclesiastical court by which he is sur-
rounded, and which is called the Dairie, is perma-
nently fixed. It is here that the celebrated tomb
of the Great Sayco Senea, the most famous of Japa-
nese temporal Emperors, is situated ; and here are
to be seen the most magnificent and imposing tem-
ples of which the empire can boast. The popula-
tion of Kioto is said to be half a million, and it has
had the reputation of being the principal manufac-
turing town in the empire. It is situated as nearly
as possible in the centre of Dai Nipon, the largest
and most important island in the Japanese group,
and which now demands a brief descriptive notice.
According to Kampfer, its length measured along
the middle of the island exceeds nine hundred
miles, and its average width may be estimated at
more than 100 miles—its surface may, therefore,
cover an area of about 100,000 square miles. It is
traversed in the whole length by a chain almost of
a uniform elevation, and in many places crowned
with peaks covered with perpetual snow. The chain
divides the streams which flow to the south and
east, and which fall into the Pacific Ocean, from
those which pursue a northerly course to the sea
of Japan. Very many of them are volcanic—among
the most important of these is the calebrated Fusya-
nuner, the highest mountain in Japan. Its eleva-
tion is estimated at about 11,000 feet above the sea
level ; it has been quiescent for upwards of a cen-
tury ; its summit was sheathed with snow when we
saw it at midsummer. The volcano of Pries, si-
tuated on an island under which we passed, was in
action. Nipon is divided into upwards of 50 se-
parate provinces, and contains the capital city of
We Empire, Yedo. The first point in it at which
we touched was the port of Simoda, situated on the
promontory of Idsu, and opened to foreign trade by
Commodore Perry in 1852.
As this port is under the new treaty to be closed
to foreigners, it is scarcely necessary to allude to it.
At no time favourably situated for trade, and under
all circumstances a dangerous harbour, anchorage
was totally destroyed by an earthquake, which took
place in December, 1854. Placed at the extreme
end of a mountainous promontory, to pass from
which into the interior of the island it is necessary
to cross a mountain range of 6,000 feet high, and
inhabited by a poor population of fishermen, Si-
moda can never offer attraction to the merchant, or
give us cause to regret that it is no longer avail- I
able for commercial purposes. The promontory of
'din forms the eastern shore of the Bay of Yed.
The distance from Simoda to that city is about 80
At Uraga the opposite shores approach to
are thus fEorimweadte
within ten polies of eachother, and testra. its which
afford scenery of much picturesque
beauty.
new port of Kanagawa,
eon miles from Yedo, and situated
in a curvature
f
10.6 within half a mile of
the western shore, lies the
affordinc, secure anchor-
and
an excellent road, practicable. for
the fand Connected
cateheleYdedroehbicyles,
containingcon
siderable
population a
population already, Karla,
oawa possesses many
advantages as a focus of trade. As, however, we
did not land here, I will not venture to describe it
further, the more especially as it has now been open
to Europeans for upwards of two months, and we
shall doubtless ere long have a full account of it
from some of the pioneers of commere;al enterprise
who have already gone to establish themselves