The Sun.
London, England, 1866-07-04 00:00:00

Fashions foi July.

(From Le Folief)
We are happy to announce a decided reactionary move-
ment towards simplicity of attire. There can be no ques-
tion that luxury in dress has of late been indulged in to an
alarming excess. It is, therefore, gratifying to observe that
the leaders of fashion now show a decided inclination to
allow tho judiciously elegant to replace the merely expen-
sive. We no longer see toilettes covered and sparkling
with gold and silver, these theatrical ornaments having
given place to ribbons, flowers, laces, dm.
Summer is undoubtedly a time of rest for the purse and
of work for the fancy. Expensive fabrics and trimmings
are not required ; a few simple material; elegantly made,
so as to permit the possessor to appear often in what the
Parisians call me toilette fraiche being all that is necessary,
except for very dressy occasions, such asfetes or marriages.
Tho materials most in vogue at the present moment are
linos, mohair, alpaca, and a great variety of fancy material;
such as Sultane, which is a mixture of silk and wool.
Foulards are, of course, immensely in request. There is,
perhaps, no fabric so much worn. It is made in endless
varieties of quality and style, so as to suit the taste and
means of every one. Moire antiques, poult de sole, thick
taffetas, and such heavy material; only suitable for
colder weather, all have to give place to the foul-
ard. Gaze de Chambdry, mousseline de soie; and
other very thin and expensive materials, are reserved for
in-door or evening wear. White toilettes are made in all
fabric; and have one great advantage : by changing the
colour of the ornament; or the style of their disposition,
one can always give them a new appearance with very little
expense or trouble. The skirts of all dresses—let the ma-
terials be what they may—are cut on the bias. In case of
their being muslins, or equally thin fabrics, the back breadth
is not gored. The slope of the side breadth is, of course,
put to the back, as it would be under any circumstances.
In-door dresses and toilettes de visite have very long trains,
and are sloped round the bottom of the skirt, and exces-
sively plain at tpe hips. Bodies also are not so very short-
waisted as they were a little time since ; in fact, the efforts
made by a misguided few to introduce an eccentric style of
dress have failed, and the short waists and the long trailing
dresses clinging round the feet are confined to those who
do not hesitate to make any sacrifice of taste and appear-
ance, in order to attract attention or look different from
others.
A few weeks ago ladies who could afford to wear. n.in.:e:r.
ten flounced muslin petticoats discontinued tho.nirtchreinoli
of course, this made but very slight difference
plain on the hips.
circum-
ference either at the bottom or top of the skirt, as all these
a weight of skirts
petticoats were so gored as to be o
at the present moment,
The weather is now so warm that so-guriet°at
would be unbearable; thereekfoproe
,tticoat and two thin ones,
under thin dresses, one thirno,
herebovngdoratl:sircaykaskwihrtistet.Worrpe
are worn over a small crino
coats, the ono next the
. cage in
forms of crirnoline worn—one round and rather
are two
ithdresses when looped up ; the other
a train, for indoor dress or when
short, for out-of-door
and w
rather larger,
the skirt is allowed to rest on the ground, The
petticoats
now are BO much shown that they are generally more orna-
mented than the dresses. For morning toilettes they are
generally made either of the same material as the dress
and palotot, or of cachemire the colour of the ornaments on
the dress. For more dressy occasions tho petticoats are
made of white or coloured silk. The white petticoats worn
under thin dresses are most elegant little gauffored
flounces edged with lace; perpendicular tucks, alternating
with embroidered insertion or Cluny ; medallions of em-
broidery or guipure, over coloured ribbons; in short, every
day introduces some new and elegant manner of trimming
them. When the dress is looped over a petticoat for out-
of-door wear tho petticoat should not touch the ground,
but be merely a short distance from it. In some cases the
under skirt is made full length, with a train, but then it is
intended for a double skirt, and not merely a petticoat. For
morning wear the paletots are almost always of the same

• •

material as the dress. They are sometimes made loose and
short, with or without a hood, but always with sleeves.
With this form a white body is worn with the skirt. When
there is a body to the skirt, to obviate the necessity
of wearing an extra covering out of doors, a peplum basque
is made separate from the body, and, being sewn on to a
narrow ribbon, is fastened round the body under the waist-
band. The small black cachemire loose paletots, spotted
with beads, are not now so elegant or so fashionable as the
small circulars of the same material, ornamented with
beads, or edged either with a bead fringe or a lace flounce.
Muslin and other thin dresses are generally accompanied
by mantles of the same; these can be made either circular
cloaks, only reaching just below the waist, or small paletots
quite loose or demi:Adjuste, according to the taste of the
wearer. When made in those thin materials the waistband
should never be worn outside. For fetes or toilettes de
visite black lace
.casaques, nearly tight fitting, are more
elegantly worn than the black lace shawl that has been so
long in favour. Black silk mantles are not much worn ;
they are intended more for spring or autumn wear.
There is not much alteration iu the form of bonnets, the
" Galette," "Lamballe," and " Fanchonette" being most in
favour. The latter is a very small "Panchen," merely reach-
ing to the chignon, not covering it, and slightly bent in front.
The "Lamballe" is perfectly round, but slightly boat down
at each side to the shape of the head, and generally has a
" Marie Stuart" front. The " Galette" is also perfectly
round, but quite flat, and in any form taking the form of
the head.

There is a very slight difference in the form of hats; they
are worn iu almost all shapes and styles. Flowers seem
to be preferred to feathers for trimming them, especially if
they are intended for seaside wear. For morning hats
flowers would, of course, be too dressy. On these are worn
small wings or straight feathers.
White bodies are, of course, more in request than ever,
and are made in a variety of materials—cambric, foulard,
alpaca, Llama, and unbleached linen. For evening wear
thinner materials, such as Indian muslin, plain or embroi-
dered. When made in these thin fabrics they aro generally
arranged with Cluny or Valenciennes insertion over coloured
ribbon or velvet. We have seen some very pretty white
muslin bodies with perpendicular bouillonnes, separated by ,
a row of very narrow coloured velvet. With white bodies
a corslet like the skirt is generally worn. These are made
in a variety of forms, but undoubtedly the most elegant
and recherche is the corslet " Medici" and point& peplum
all cut in one. This should be made in the colour of the
trimmings or patterns on the dress. The white body must,
of course, have the same coloured trimmings.

Coal, Iron, and Oil.

In reviewing a work on the above subject, the
New York Times says :
This is a work of peculiar and original interest, and of
great practical utility. It is made up chiefly of new in-
formation, facts, and figures, which can only be acquired
by long experience and close observation, and which
adds largely to the knowledge we possess of our
mines and mineral resources. It is writtten in a
plain and popular manner, with no pretensions
to literary merit and no flourishing scientific phrase
or technical ambiguity. It is concise, pointed, and
brief. Words are used to present facts. Yet the book
cannot fail to be interesting to the general reader, while it
seems a necessity to those directly interested in the sub-
jects discussed, or all who seek information in regard to
our mineral kingdom—our vast and magnificent resources
in coal, iron, and oil. To those it is really a " text-book
and guide." A full and complete table of contents is given
as well as a copious general index. The statistical informa-
tion, which is very full and up to the present year, is grouped
in anappendix, under appropriate heads, and ina systematic
m inner, so as not to interrupt the leading descriptions in
the body of the work ; but where these tables and figures
may be necessary to illustrate the text they aro given in
connection. The whole work is divided into seven parts
and thirty chapters,• exclusive of the appendix. The first
part is devoted to geology, giving a precise description of
tho earth's crust, the character and formation of the Ap-
palachian ranges, and the groat North American Basin, the
origin and formation of coal, and its place among the
rocks. The second part describes the general distribution
of coal in all the explored parts of the world ; the early
history and development of mineral coal in Europe and
America, and a brief description of the coal fields and coal
mines of Great Britain. Part third gives a lengthy and
elaborate description of the coal fields and coal mines
of the anthracite regions of Pennsylvania—their seams,
basins, faults, measures ; in a word, an exhaustiie descrip-
tion of our vast and famous beds of anathracite. Part
fourth describes our bituminous coal fields, inclusive of the
western, southern, and north-eastern fields —namely, the
Great Alleghany coal field and its eastern and north-east-
ern basins, the great Central coal field, the Great Western
coal field, the Northern or Michigan, the Arcadian or
the coal of the British Provinces, the Southern or
the coal of 'Virginia and North Carolina, and the
coals of the Pacific slopes. Part fifth contains an
elaborate and practical account of the various
modes and systems of mining coal; the economy of mining
and ventilation ; scientific and practical mining; improve-
ments iu mining matters, and th© development of mines,
and mine surveyibg and engineering. Part sixth gives
the general distribution of the ores of iron in the United
States, dividing the Asoic from the Palmozoic formation;
and exhibiting briefly the various theories of the formation
of the ores of iron. The Magnetics, Hematites, Carbo-
nitos, &c., &c. ; a chapter on the practical development of
our resources, and a concise description of the elabo-
ration of iron and steel, including the late improve-
ments in the manufacture of iron, and the pneumatic or

Bessemer process of manufacturing steel—an interesting
subject at present, and one that will be forced upon our at-
tention. Part seventh contains the geology, distribution, and
peculiarities of petroleum or rock oil, which, however, is so
intimately connected with coal, that its consideration often
occurs in connection with the descriptions in the early
pages of the book. This account of petroleum appears to
clear up much of the mystery and confusion which exists
in relation to the existence, formation, and origin of rock
oil or petroleum, and will well repay a close and attentive pe-
rusal. Part eighth is the appendix, which contains the sta-
tistics of iron, coal, and petroleum, and a description of the
anthracite mines, which are also illustrated by a large and
elegant geological map, showing tho relative formations,
basins, mines, and regions. The geology of the United
States and the formation of the groat South American
basin, is clearly set forth and illustrated. In this, as in
most of the subjects discussed, there is much originality
and much that will be new and interesting generally to the
reading public. We may say that it is the most valuable
and practical work that has appeared on the subject of coal
since the publication of Taylor's statistics, and we would
advise all who wish such information to read for them-
selves.

TESTIMONIAL TO MR. HENRY RUMSEY FORSTER.
—lt has been known, for some little time past, that
Mr. Forster contemplated retiring from the London manager-.
ship of Messrs. Allsopp and Sons, the eminent ale brewers
of Burton-on-Trent. Mr. Forster has held this important
appointment for no less a term than ten years, and his
withdrawal from it will be a subject of regret to the very
extensive connections of the firm with whom he had busi-
ness transactions, as well as to a very large circle of private
friends. Mr. Forster's career as a journalist has made him
widely known, and, therefore, a change so important as
that we have indicated will be a matter of interest far
beyond the limits of the trade with which he has boon so
long and so honourably identified. With regard to the trade,
however, our readers will be pleased to learn that Mr.
Forster has not retired from it, but merely transferred his
services to the eminent sherry shippers, Messrs. Duff
Gordon, and Co. Mr. Forster will take with him to his
new sphere of labour the best wishes of a host of sincere
friends. His urbanity of manner, enthusiasm in business,
geniality of disposition, wonderful tact, untiring energy,
and varied accomplishments, have enabled him to consoli-
date and extend Messrs. Allsopp's business, to which he
has devoted his best years, and no doubt he will meet with
the same success in his now position. Mr. Forster'B
" transfer" has been thought a proper occasion for the pre-
sentation of some suitable testimonial to mark the respect
and esteem in which he is hold. Such an intention, we
are sure, needs only to be announced to meet with a prompt
and gratifying result.—Licensed Victuallers' Guardian.
[ADVERTISEUENT.] —Da Barry's delicious and health-
naming Revalenta Arabtea Food, which
times the nourishment of the best meat, saves fifty times its
contains three
lungs, healthy
and everperfect digestion, strong
cost in other remedies, restores
liver, refreshing sleep, tuna-
nerve's, sound
removing
speedily to the most disordered or en-
feebled,habitual constipation,
func-
tional regularity,
throats, catarrhs,
nervousness, diarrhoea,biliousness,
nme :87
levers,hoids, liver
ore
and effectually indigestion (dys-
pepata)
complaints, flatulency,
, colds, influenza, noises in the head and
ears, rheumatism, gout, impurities, eruptions, hysteria, neu-
ralgia,
Y.lelshenetptlessness, acidity, palpitation, heart-
burn, headache,
coughs,dropsy, cramps,
ath spasms, nausea,
and sickness, sinking fity;
a In s a t
at,hbercohnchitis, inci-
pient consumption. scrofula, ,ti. ht esss ofm
the pit of the stomach, between the shoulders,e&stC.P
Certi-
ficateu No. 29,110. We find it the safest remedy. Andrew
re, M.D., F.R.S. ; Dr Harvey; Wurzer ; Dr Shorland;
Dr CampbelL We quote a few out of the 62,0 0 cures :
No. 57,314. Tittenson • I cannot express my gratitude for
the benefit I have deriv. d from Du Barry's food. My ap-
petite is perfectly restored, the pains in my leg, ba.k, and
chest are quite gone, and I am fast gaining strength and
flesh. Mrs A. Owen.—Cure 100. 51,812. Miss Virginia.
Zegucrs, cured of consumption, titer her medial advisers
abandoned all hopes of recovery. - Cure No. 49,532. 01 fifty
years' indescribable agony Ire rn dyspepsia, nervousness,
asthma, cough, constipation, flatulency, spasmg, sieknesi at
the stomach, a .d vomiting. Mania Joly, Wortham, Idag, near
Dies, Norfolk. -Cure No. 47,121. 31158 Elizabeth Jacobs, of
Nast ng Vicarage. Waltham Cross, Ilerts, of extreme nervous.
ness, indlgesti,,n, gatherings, low spirits, and rrrvong fancies
ltegent-street, London ;
ele9t, 1)1
Strandp
In tins, lib, 2s 9d ; 21b, 4s GI ; 51b, it, ; 12W, 22s ; 24Th,
10s. --Barry Du Barry and Co., No. 77,
8, King William-street ; likewise
h-dseatmr; -court-roadsgte96,
also Phillips, tea dealers,
Harvey, Notting-hill; Close
sattreaett,
WGriathoecinh;nro63,hl-ssot,reanetd;l2o49B;:COThxfoecaothprendi
54, Upper Baker-street;
Upper-street,
Brothers, 65, High-street ; and Stubbs, Queen's-terrace, St.
John's-wood, London; and all respectable grocers and che.
Islington, N.;
mists.—Bevel of spurious imitations.

HIGH WATER AT LONDON BRIDGE.

THIS DAY.-11®rning, Gh. Om.—Afternoon, Ch. 22m.
To-Alottitow.-Morning, Gh. 45m.—Afternoon, 7h. 15m.