The Sun.
London, England, 1860-11-14 00:00:00

good flannel clothing, and on every bed was a clean
pair of sheets and a famous blanket. Each vessel
was supplied with a complete file of the London
papers and a good selection of books. The men
seemed most grateful for this, and nearly every one
not too ill to read had in his hand a paper, arrived
by the mail of the previous day. The newspapers
will be continued as long as the army remains in
China. " You had your work to do the other day,"
said Ito a wounded 67th man. " Yes, Sir, and we
did it." " What will they think of it in England ?
Will the Queen know what a fight it was ?" asked a
44th man with five gingal balls in him. I ventured
to assure him that her Majesty would be the first to
appreciate the valour displayed at the storming of
the fort. They were all anxious on this subject,
for the Chinese war has excited so little interest at
home that the soldiers fear they may not obtain
that best salve for all wounds—the sympathy and
admiration of their countrymen. Never did men
deserve it more. Here, at 15,000 miles from home,
were upwards of 150 44ths and 67ths wounded in
the attack, and nearly all belonging to two com-
panies of each regiment. There was no grumbling,
no vain complaints. Every man was resigned to
his fate, and an artilleryman whose leg had been
amputated cheerily hoped to obtain a situation
among the soldier commissionaires of London.
Various games had been sent from the War-office—
chess, backgammon, draughts, solitaire, &c.—of
which the last was the favourite. As to stores and
medical comforts, these ships contain a supply of
everything that by the most remote possibility can
be needed, It made one's mouth water to see the
portable soups, the potted meats, the preserved
vegetables, and the other good things ranged in the
store-rooms tier over tier. Boxes of sago, tapioca,
and other necessaries of that kind would have fitted
out a large grocer's shop, while the cellar was filled
with campagne, claret, port, and sherry, not forget-
ting bitter beer, In short, there was nothing
whatever that could be required for the care and
sustenance of the sick, the wounded, and the con-
valescent which was not provided. Exception
,has been taken to the expense incurred on board
these vessels; but I put it to every man in Eng-
laud—by whom, after all, the bill is paid—whe-
ther he regrets one farthing that has been properly
spent with a view to the comfort of the sick and
wounded ? Even in the economical point of view,
the British soldier in China is a costly article, and
a few thousands more or less are well expended
in restoring and preserving his health. But I need
not labour the subject. The Crimea taught that
prevention is not only better, but cheaper than cure,
and we have profited by the lesson, The sick and
wounded are tended with the same care and solici-
tude as in the best London hospitals, and the ar-
rangements made by Dr. Muir and his staff leave
little or nothing to be desired.
On returning from the hospitals to Tang-kow I
found Major Anson, Major Sarel, Captain Farqu-
harson, and Lieutenant Johnson, R.N., about to
-start for Tien-tsin with the head-quarters horses
and cbolies, some baggage animals and carts, and
the Commander-in-Chief's escort of 20 Sikhs. They
were going up the south bank—pioneers of the road
for the first division, which followed next day. I
joined the party, and we left camp about 5 p.m
After considerable delay at the bridge from the
French artillery waggons returning to Sinho, we
reached the south bank, Passing through an
orchard we gained, soon after dusk, a large plain
covered with the inevitable salt-hills, and there we
encamped for the night. At cockcrow next morn-
ing our party was in the saddle. After riding across
the plain for a couple of miles we reached a village,
in front of which a deep trench 12 feet wide was cut
across the road, with a ditch on one side and a
swamp on the other. It was impossible to get the
carts across, so we parleyed with the villagers.
Within five minutes, 60 or 70 men were shovelling
in earth, and in half an hour the road was repaired.
Nothing could exceed the alacrity and goodwill with
which they worked, and they were delighted with
the dollar which rewarded their pains. We were
now on the great south road from Taku to Tien-tsin
and Pekin—probably the first Europeans who had
ever travelled on it. For upwards of six miles we
passed through gardens, the produce of which
supplied the garrison of the forts and the town
of Taku. They were admirably cultivated.
Little waterwheels furnished an easy means of
irrigation, and the vegetables might have put
a Battersea market garden to shame. Large
Swede turnips, excellent French beans, crisp
radishes, lettuces, yams, and many other vege-
tables grew in great profusion. The fruit was mag-
nificent. Trellised vines, whence the ripe luscious
fruit hung in mellow clusters, reminded us of Italy.
Peaches, water melons, apples—very like Newtown
11 pippins—and pears of every description, were abun-
dan t. For six miles " drooped the heavy-blossomed
bower, hung the heavy-fruited tree." The road was
a wide mud track. No pains whatever had been
taken to make it, and not a single stone did we see
during our journey. Had the weather been wet it
I would have been utterly impracticable, but the hot
sun which has shone over us since landing had baked
the mud quite hard, and we rode on without much
difficulty. The road was encumbered with people
returning, to Taku. They had fled when the forts
were attacked, and, now reassured, were returning
to their homes. The women rode in a wheelbarrow
fashioned after the model of an outside jaunting-
car. These barrows are on a well-devised model,
the whole of the load being thrown on the wheel,
which is of the height of the barrow, and exactly
in its centre. They consequently carry two or three
times the quantity of ordinary barrows, where
nearly half the load is carried by the man. One
fellow gaily trundled along four of the fair sex,
evidently much surprised at meeting the barbarians,
but showing no signs of fear. I had my first good
view of Chinese beauti;s. Flat noses, linear eves,
high cheek bones, and broad upper faces are not
suggestive of Venus or Psyche, nevertheless there is
I an expression of sweetness about a Chinawoman's
face which redeems it from positive ugliness. Her
jet black hair is combed into a turret at the top of
the head,and there plastered with grease and poma-
tum—much after the fashion of the English dame
during the days of the Regent. She is small in sta-
ture, with remarkably pretty hands, and her feet
find favour in the eyes of her lord. Each barrow
was followed by Coolies, laden with everything, from
fans to tables and chairs. We pass a wounded Tartar,
carried up in a basket to Tientsin. Poor fellow! his
face is frightfully smashed, and he will have a hard
struggle for life. After working our way through
this stream of people for upwards of six miles, we
reached a town called Ko-tai. Here we were met
by the Mandarins, who prostrated themselves and
implored protection. They were soon reassured,
and informed that we should merely pass through
the town en route to Tien-tsin. Water melons and
cakes were brought for our refection, and after a
few minutes' chin-chining we proceeded on our
journey. Cheque oiseau troure son nid beau; so I
suppose the Chinaman appreciates the vile
stenches and filth amid which he lives. For a mile
and a half did the road wind through the streets of
Ko-ku, no street exceeding eight feet in width.
The open sewers were choked to repletion with
offal of every description; what they were unable
to contain lay scattered about the streets. CArse
black pigs wallowed in the mire; and dogs innume-
ruble basked in the sun.

The houses of mod and straw bore a strong
family likeness to those of Sinho and Tang-kow,
and the peculiar faint, sickly smell, so well known
tetoarlyl taroravoepllers in China, greeted our nostrils from
we passed. The men are taller than
those
se of Southern China, but equally flat, flabby,
and unmuscular: Fully one-half had cutaneous
disease, engendered by their filthy habits, and ring-
worm was extremely prevalent. A blazing hot sun
brought the various agrements of Ko-ku into full
relief, as we forced our way
horses,tlirough th
all the coolies, mules, asses,
train. A native servant drives th
stores too sharp round a corner ; ovfx
iat' en with
its side, and over goes the wild Tartar pony goeswhi(cTi
does duty as wheeler. Mack and well a day the
beer flows out—we had but half a dozen. bottles
acna
rdteciat town
ni
ourtwith
and exposes our dreadful loss. One cart is puked
high with boxes innumerable, but the ropes are
stoat, and the packers have been handy, so the
boxes are not scattered over the road. We discuss
the best mode of proceeding, when 50 Chinamen

rush to the front, and in half a minute have hoisted
the cart on its wheels and the pony on its legs.
At length we got clear of the town—which runs
along the banks of the river—and found ourselves
on a large plain. One side was covered with coarse
paddy, the other mere swamp. Four miles' march
across thisbrought us to another town, Kiang-kia-
chwang, near which we determined to halt for the
night. A large acacia at the entrance of the village
shaded a strip of green by the side of some water,
and there we pitched our tent. The whole
population turned out to see us. They were soon
assured that we meant them no harm, and became
inconveniently inquisitive. They peered into our
eyes, wished to know our ages, and our " honour-
able names," and were delighted at the materials of
our garments. A tweed shooting coat of mine ex-
cited special admiration. It was handled and
fingered by all who could get near it. The watch
and the compass they understood at once, but -a
copy of the Times which I spread open for their
inspection caused a wondering shout of " Aah yah !"
Having bestowed sufficient attention on us, " the
great Kings," they turned to the Sikhs, " the black
Princes," as they are christened. They marvelled
at their horses, stood by their side, and measured
their height, inspected the saddles and trappings,
touched the bridles, and kept at a respectful dis-
tance from the scimitars The Sikhs were in their
glory. They unsheathed their sabres and ran their
fingers along the keen edges, explained the theory
of their double-barrelled pistols in unmistakeable
pantomime, and showed how their lances had pierced
the Tartar cavalry.
At sunset I was tubbing in a secluded spot, but
the eyes of the Chinamen had followed me thither,
and turning round in the middle of my bath I saw
a score of them gazing at the operation in speechless
wonder. The expression of their faces was absurdly
droll as they witnessed for the first time an opera-
tion so superfluous. Meanwhile the chiets of the
town had procured all sorts of supplies—hay and
Indian corn for the horses ; sodden cakes, fruit, and
poultry for the men. With great difficulty could
we persuade our friends to relieve us oftheir com-
pany at nightfall, but at last they departed, pro-
mising to return with fresh supplies in the morning.
As good as their word, they appeared at dawn,
" Awake, arise, great kings, and eat, food and drink
are provided." Their charge was moderate enough
but two dollars and a half. The forage was cut with
a rude scythe, precisely the pattern of the patent
mowing machine. A bamboo cradle caught the
grass, and the mower got down his crop with ex-
traordinary rapidity.
Leaving the town, we came on an extensive plain
covered as far as the eye could reach with millet
12 to 14 feet high. For six or seven miles we rode
through this gigantic corn, now nearly ripe for the
harvest. The millet answers a vast variety of pur-
poses. Its head is ground into flour, and very good
flour it makes, or distilled into shamshoo, the vilest
and most deleterious of drinks, The leaves when
green are eaten by the cattle, when dry they make
excellent fodder. The stalk serves for fuel, for
thatching, for partition walls, for fences; for mixing
with mud for the walls of houses and for the em-
bankments of the canals. It was the only grain
we saw on the road. We were told that directly
the millet is cut at the end of this month wheat is
sown, which is reaped at the latter end of June,
The wheat when cut is replaced by the millet. A
sharp turn brought us to another town, again on the
river's bank, called Sinchwang. Beyond this was
a large entrenched camp resting on the river, and
stretching right across the road for some miles. It
was quite deserted, long grass grew within its
walls, and it had evidently been some time unoc-
cupied. Passing through the camp our road lay
by the side of the market-gardens which stretch
far beyond Tien-tsin. Three miles before reaching
that place two large forts command the roads which
pass through them, as well as the river. They are
built, one on the south, the other on the north
bank, and are immensely strong. In the cavalier
of the southern fort are embrasures for seven guns.
The guns have been taken away and buried, but a
few have already been dug up. They are brass
Chinese guns of great calibre and beautiful work-
manship. We now see the English camp on our
left, and the town of Tien-tsin before us. We have
ridden 31 miles from Sinho, which, being seven
miles from the forts, makes 'the distance thence to
Tien-tsin exactly 38 miles. The whole country
over which we rode was plain, without hillock or
elevation of any kind. It is just above the level of
the river, and seems an excellent nursery for fever
and ague. Passing through a suburb we reach
the south gate, and filid ourselves in the walled
city. Through this we proceed for three quarters
of a mile, find a gate which leads into another
suburb, and then, riding a good mile down "the
Street of Everlasting Prosperity," we reach our
destination, after being nine hours and a half
in the saddle. I regret to say that our ride nearly
proved fatal to one of our party—Lieut. Johnson.
The sun had been frightfully hot during the whole
day. On the evening of our arrival Lieut. Johnson
felt unwell, and went on board the Granada to sleep.
Next day he was unconscious, with a remittent
fever of the most virulent kind. After struggling
for three days between life and death he turned
the corner, and I am happy to say is now quite out
of danger, and in a fair way of recovery. The sun
has been fatal in not a few cases. Licuts. l'alliser,
of the Royals, and Breedon, of the Buffs, have
fallen victims to its pernicious influence, and even
one of Prohyn's handy Sikhs was struck down and
• died next day. Still the climate is by no means
unhealthy, although it is necessary to avoid expo-
sure during the hottest part of the day. \lre have
not had one drop of rain for three weeks. The
thermometer has risen to 98 in the shade at noon,
and yesterday we were treated to an Indian hot
wind, but the nights are cool, and even colt'.
Tien-tsin, on the south bank of the Peiho, 38
miles from the Taku Forts, and 68 from Pekin, is
the largest port on the coast north of Shanghai not
hitherto open to foreign trade. It is the terminus
of the Grand Canal, which skirts the town and
enters the Peiho outside the walls. By this canal
all the produce and taxes for the use of the capital
have been brought for centuries. Since it was
broken up by the irruption of the Yellow River
the produce and taxes have equally reached Tien-
tsin, borne by junks across the sea and then up the
Mho. All the salt for the use of the capital is
stored here. An imperial monopoly, the dreary
salt flat on which we landed, constitutes one of the
most valuable appenages of the Crown. There,
and all along the coast, may be seen innumerable
salt hills. When the salt is evaporated it is
brought to Tien-tsin, and piled in stacks covered
with matting, as large as the largest haystacks in
England. Acres of them may be seen on the north
bank of the river just below the town. A consider-
able trade is carried on in grain and rice. The a'
is thronged with junks, and the crowd •' ..ver
streets are fall of life and moti-
bustling
of Tien-tsin renders it
-on. The position
portent cities in China
of din most im-
-
said to be near. y half a million of
d„
keyl of the capital.
Its population is
souls. It is caertainly upwards of 300,000. Though
the-G.;;if of Pecheli be shallow, the Peiho
difficult
q. navigation, and the bar at its mouth inconve-
niently large, yet ships of considerable burden can
ascend the river. he Peninsular and Oriental
steamer Granada, which brought up Lord Elgin and
Sir Hope Grant, and draws 11 feet water, is
anchored off the town at the mouth of the Grand
Canal. The steamer Carthage, drawing 12 feet,
with commissariat stores on board, is moored just
below, and her Majesty's despatch gunboat Rey-
nard, of the same draught, just above her.
The Granada and the Carthage ascended the river
in one day, under the skilful pilotage of Captain
Roderick Dew, R.N., and neither grounded more
than once. Nov that the port will be opened to
commerce the Dents will have more than one
" Yang-tse," the Jardincs more than one " Fiery
Cross," plying between Shanghai and the Peiho.
The walled city is of considerable extent ; dirty
and filthy as every other Chinese town. Outside the
wall is the north suburb, greater in extent than the
city itself'. It is built along the Grand Canal, and
the river, running at right angles to it. Here are
all the principal shops and warehouses. The streets,
though unpaved, are clean, and the houses fitted up
with something like comfort. The mansion occupied
by Lord Elgin, Baron Gros, and Sir Hope Grant
l built without
t windows.plan
It
to cue of the principal corn merchants.
tis of enormous size, and actually has glass inmany
of
all
il 1 Ca h
suiten se
of
rot soeosmi
rooms
is ix
orL Lilac
des
here, a courtyard h t ere, but the rooms arc airy,