The Sun.
London, England, 1869-12-07 00:00:00

THE SUEZ CANAL.

(FROM TAE SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT OF TEE CENTRAL
PRESS.)
ALEXANDRIA, Nov. 27.

My last letter was written at Ismailia, and gave a brief
account of the Canal Fleet and of the fates which were
then given. No one who had the good fortune to witness
the splendid illuminations at that place can deny that
there has been ona bright spot in his existence for which
he may ever be thankful. The occasion was worthy
of all the efforts which were made for its celebration.
The appearance of a fleet of fifty sail in the middle of
the desert, and before a town which had been expressly
built for its reception, demanded all the enthusiasm which
the circumstances awakened. Never were the energy of
the West and the magnificence of the East combined in a
more effectual manner. The guests of the Viceroy
will long remember the two days' entertainment on the
shores of Lake Timsah.
Arrangements had been made for the departure of the
fleet on the 18th inst., and precisely at noon the yacht of
the Empress was seen to be moving. It was no easy
matter to get fifty ships into a line for entering the Canal,
and unfortunately the harbour-master had not acted with
that decision which the occasion required. On our captain
applying for instructions as to the order of departure, he
was told that no attempt would be made to regulate the
leaving, and that each ship must do the best she could,
The result was that after the four royal ships had gone in!
a scramble for places ensued, which lasted throughout
the remainder of the day. The contest ceased at nightfall,
when it was proved that, notwithstanding several collisions,
thirty-five ships had succeeded in getting into the canal.
The others waited until daylight before renewing the
attempt. A good deal of delay took place in the passage
of the canal from Lake Timsah to the Bitter Lakes, as
several ships got aground repeatedly, but these detentions,
although amounting to several hours in the aggregate, were
seldom of long duration in each instance, as there is no
tenacity about the material which forms the banks of the
Canal, and the ships are easily got off. It is this circum-
stance which ensures the safety of the passage. If the
Canal had been excavated through clay or rock, the case
would be very different, and the contact with the banks,
which appears to be occasionally unavoidable, would be
much more serious. As it is, there is no probability that
any 'very prolonged blockage of the passage will occur.
- - - - J.- t:2

subjected to such a test as the crowding into it of a whole
fleet of vessels, closely pursuing one another, and leaving
no room for proper steerage. The conditions for the per-
manent working of the traffic required that each ship shall
take a pilot. But on this occasion no pilots were pro-
vided, neither does there appear to be any necessity for
them, as the water is carefully buoyed throughout the
Canal, and at night lamps are placed on the buoys.
Three hours' steaming after leaving Lake Timsah brings
us to the Bitter Lakes, which now form a large inland sea,
where, four months ago, there was nothing but the arid
waste of the desert. The deceptive mirage which often
led the traveller to suppose that he saw the spot covered
with water, has now become a reality. For weeks
the flood has been pouring in both frcm the Red
Sea and the Mediterranean, until the largest ships can new
disport thimselves upon this inland sea. It was a relief
to be allowed to put on full steamoncemore, and to plowTh
the waters without fear of coming in contact with a sand
bank. We had no sooner entered upcn the lake than
we commenced a race with our predecessors, which enabled
us to pass two of them and to enter the next stage of the
'Canal in a better position than the one which we had pre-
viously. occupied.
Throughout the journey we had taken repeated soundings
to ascertain the depth of the water, and in no instance did
we find less than seventeen feet, while in nearly all cases
the depth was from twenty-five to thirty feet. It will not,
however, be difficult to deepen the water at any part.
That portion of the canal nearest the Red Sea—the few
miles through the Plain of Suez—is said to be cut through
rock,, but the stone is very soft, and it can be deepened
without serious difficulty.

The traveller on approaching Suez by way of the Canal
obtains an excellent view of the hills by which
it is surrounded, and which on this occasion pre-
sented a very picturesque appearance as they were
brilliantly illuminated by the setting sun. Suez
did its best to welcome us, but as it had been
arranged that the chief demonstrations should take place
at Port Said and Ismailia, the illuminations and decora-
tions at Suez were not very striking ; but the satisfaction
which was felt and expressed at the successful accomplish-
ment of the undertaking was, as you may imagine,
most cordial and unanimous. Most of tho visitors
left immediately by rail for Cairo, in order
to be in time for the grand ball which was
given there on the evening of the 21st. This ball
was more select, and, in some respects, more satisfac-
tory, than those which had preceded it. And here we
received further substantial evidence of the wonderful
efforts of the Khedive to provide for the entertainment of
his guests. He came to the conclusion that a Parisian
theatre was essential to the happiness of his visitors, and
he determined that one should be erected which would do
credit to any European capital. It was vain to urge the
impossibility of getting up such a building in such a place
without more time for preparation. He declared
that a theatre must be ready by November, and
ready it was, not as a temporary structure, but
as a substantial building of suitable dimensions,
embellished with decorations and conveniences adapted to
both European and Egyptian ideas. An Italian architect,
Signor Avoscani, of Alessandria, was entrusted with the
undertaking. The ground which he had to cover was
345 feet long by 200 feet wide. He has constructed a
theatre with a pit of 160 feet in length, above which are
four tiers of boxes. The stage extends over 40 feet, and is
provided with every kind of modern arrangement for
scenic effect. On the first floor there are seventy salons,
on the second floor nine, some of which are of very large
dimensions, and form magnificent suites of rooms. The
comfort of the artistes has been provided for by the
erection of sixty.two dressing-rooms. To improve the
acoustic effect of the building, an excavation thirty feet
deep has been made under the pit; the height above the
floor of the pit is 86 feet. The outside of the theatre
presents an imposing appearance, and the interior decora-
tions aro in excellent taste. The cost of the whole has
been 5,000,000 f., or nearly £200,000. The work was com-
menced on the Ist of May; on the 10th the foundation-
e-one was laid, and by the 3rd of September the contract
for the erection was completed. On November 1 the fur-
nishing and decorations were finished, and the theatre was
opened. European artistes were engaged to amuse the
Viceroy's guests during their few days' sojourn at Cairo,
and free admission to the theatre was one of the many

This is only one of several buildings which have recently
b-...en cr. c! ed by the Khedive in the same hurried and ex-
travagant manner. In addition to the theatre at Cairo, a
large cirque has been built at the same place, with a
n-agnificent range of stabling and other conveniences
watch make the block of buildings look like a little town.
I have already mentioned the palace at Ismailia, but
palaces and chalets for the Khedive have been springing
up in various places, and it would be as difficult to over-
rate their cost as it is impossible to estimate the cost of
the magnificent entertainment which the Viceroy has
given to so large a number of European guests. But if
we snake the most liberal calculation as to the
cost of a dozen palaces and theatres, and a very
extravagant estimate of the expenditure which has
been incurred in bringing 3,000 guests from Europe,
taking them back again, and providing them while in Egypt
with every kind of luxury—including unlimited supplies of
champagne, carriages, admission to theatres, and well-
provisioned steamers, freo of cost, for special excursions
up the Nile—yet the cost of the whole will come very far
within the amount that would have been expended on a
very little war, which would have left no trace except that
of ill-feeling behind it. Had the Khedive been pugnacious
instead of peaceful, and if he wanted a few millions for
military expenditure, there would have been no thought,
cf imposing a veto upon his borrowing powers ; but, having
incurred an outlay of a novel character, which is at least
an improvement upon the ordinary purposes for which
national debts are incurred, grave conferences must be
held to determine whether the Khedive must be allowed
to borrow any more. Turkey remonstrates against its
vassal showing any signs of vitality, and England listens
to the remonstrance, and considers whether she ought not
to support Turkey in her deterrent policy, and insist upon
it that the resources of Egypt shall not be developed. At
the moment that Mr. Elliot and other diplomatic
dignitaries are considering the political aspects at Cairo,
M. Derider and other large capitalists are visiting Egypt in
orderto look at the matterfrom a commercial point of view
and we may safely leave it to these long-headed men to say
whether they will lend their money to the Khedive. If
we interfere at all it should be to say to Turkey, "hands
off !" if you do nothing yourself, by all means let those
move on who wish to do so."

The interests of trade and civilisation require the
development of Egypt. Here is a country capable of un-
limited production, where the earth yields her treasures
npon the simplest conditions. It is only necessary to
supply water to her arid plains, and they smile under the
burden, not of annual, but of four-monthly crops,which are
certain to reward the labours of the husbandman without
any interference through the variations of climate which
prevail elsewhere. Scarcely any country in the world can
command such a variety of productions, or upon such an
unlimited scale. Nearly all kinds of corn and fruits can
be produced, and the finest cotton can be grown in un-
limited quantities to give activity once more to the
many
silent mills of Lancashire. In addition to
these advantages, Egypt has an industrious pastoral
population willing to labour on the soil, and
glad to pay a heavy sum per acre to the Government
if it will undertake to irrigate the lands. The Khedive
and his Ministers have a wonderful appreciation of Euro-
pean civilisation, and are desirous of introducing to Egypt
the productions of the West. Here, therefore, are all the
elements of profitable communication. In a commercial
sense there can be no doubt of the advantages to be gained
by unrestricted intercourse with Egypt, and in a political
view, it seems difficult to divine the wisdom of leaving to
France the occupation of such a valuable commercial field
and such a strong stragetical position. If England conti-
nues to uphold Turkey against the Khedive, Egypt will
become wholly and irrevocably French, for which nothing
in our alliance with Turkey is likely to compensate
us. It is true that our politicians hold the
opposite argument, and contend that we can
control Egypt only through Turkey, and that for
this purpose the sovereignty of Turkey must be upheld.
A despotism too weak and too wicked to stand alone is
maintained by England for a purpose which would be
infinitely better gained by an honest and practical policy,
giving to Egypt its duo, and shewing England to be the
friend of truth and justice.
Of the notabilities present at the opening of the Canal,
Sir Samuel Baker was conspicuous. His expedition to the
regions about the Albert Nyanza has been delayed by the
occupation of the steamboats intended for him in taking
the guests of the Viceroy up the Nile ; and another diffi-
culty has now arisen which is more amusing than serious.
It was understood that Sir Samuel Baker was to be created
a Pacha by the Khedive, for which the concurrenoe of the
Sultan was required; but rumour with her many tongues
delared that the Sultan would not confirm the appoint-
ment. Thereupon the Prince of Wales, in his desire to
I forward the interests of all parties, communicated to the
a po

expected dignitf —The Sultan- immediately cipressed his
reallness to meet the wishes •of the Prince of Wales,
vld a telegram reached Egypt, announcing that
Ilaker was to be made a Psalm. In the meantime
the Khedive had taken no steps in the matter, and he was
fttrious when he learned that others had been interfering
with his prerogative. In vain the Prince of Wales ex-
plained that he understood that in applying to the Sultan
ho was acting in accordanca with the wishes of the
Khedive. At present the ruler of Egypt is not to be pacified,
and now declares that Baker shall not have the dignity,
conferred upon him. His temper is not likely to be im-;
proved by the lectures which he has received from Mr.
Elliot, who spares neither advice nor dictation. But
more serious differences than these exist between the
..tultan and the Khedive, of which you will learn by tcle-
;raph sooner than this letter can reach you.
• This letter would be incomplete without some notice of
gnat engineer, whose name will be ever 7connected
with the work which has now been so conspicuously
:nau,gurated. No one who is brought into contact with M.
de Lesseps can fail to be struck with the manliness and
modesty of his character. The easy grace with which he
performs all duties and attends to the minutest details,
lommands universal confidence. Before the arrival of the
crawl procession at the canopy where the opening cere-
mony was to Le performed at Port Said, M. de Lesseps
was seelL arranging the chairs and noting the
rositiou to whi,th he was to conduct the vari-
oas royal personages who were to be present.
When all had been arranged to his satisfaction, "Now,"
said he, "we have an hour to wait; let us sit down in the
hade until they come." "Well, Lesseps," exclaimed a
friend, "you ought to be tired." "Why ?" replied he, "it
is not harder work placing chairs than making the canal."

Can you believe," said another, " that the opening day is
really come." "This day," said Lesseps, "has been
present with me for the last ten years, and
it comes now like an old friend. I • never
doubted that it would come." Presently the
procession came up and was received by the bronze.
faced engineer with the grace of a courtier; and throughout
the opening ceremony no one was more calm than M. de
Lesseps. Helene de Briger, a charming young lady 21
years of age, was so fascinated with the great engineer
that her desire to become Madame de Lesseps became
known, and within a week after the opening
of the Canal, she was married to him at Ismailia.
The bridegroom is 66 years of age, and most of his children
are older than his wife ; but M. de Lesseps is young in
ivory respect excepting in years.

FOREIGN NOTES.