The Sun.
London, England, 1860-09-15 00:00:00

THE SUN, LONDON, SATURDAY EVENING, SEPTEMBER 15, 1860.''.

SOUTH WALES IN AUTUMN
110ARD and LODGING.—A LADY or TWO
SISTERS; wishing. for a comfortable Home in a
neautiful and romantic part of South Wales, may be accom-
modated on Very favourable terms.
For further particulars apply to Mrs. DURANT, 85, New-
gate-street, City, London.

fIEORGE HOTEL, PORTSMOUTH.-
kA DIGRY DENT • solicits the attention of Commercial
Gentlemen to this Hotel, which has been newly furnished
throughout, assuring them that they will receive his best
attention, and find all their requirements specially attended

PIANOFORTES.- CRAMER, BEALE, and
CO., have a great variety, SECOND-HAND, at the
Close of the London Season.—Cramer, Beale, and Co., 201,
Regent-street.

SICILY, NAPLES, SYRIA, &c.
GREAT GLOBE, Leicester-square.
NEW DIORAMAS of the CAMPAIGNS in ITALY.—The
War in ( hina—The Tour of the Rhine—A Tour through
British India, Japan, ft.—Special Lectures on Syria, Ancient
and Modern, Sicily and Naples—Popular and Physical Geo-
graphy, &c.
Model of the Earth. Open from Ten a.m, till Ten p.m.
Admission to the whole building, One Shilligg.

y. KAHN'S MUSEUM, opposite the Hay-
market, OPEN DAILY frotp 12 to 5, and from 7 to 10.
POPULAit LECTURES at 3 and 8. Admission, Is.
Dr. KAHN'S "TREATISE on the PHILOSOPHY of
MARRIAGE" sent post free for thirteen stamps from the
Author.—Address 17, Harley-street, Cavendish-square, W.

ARGYLL ROOMS, Windmill-street, Piccadilly
RE-OPENED for the WINTER SEASON for PRO-
MENADE CONCERTS, with the following. powerful cast,
consisting of selections from Il Trovatore, Martha, Lurline,
Huguenots, L'Etoile du Nord, &c. Dancing at Ten o'clock.
The °rig:lust Band, established ten years. Conducted by M.
LAMOTTE. Admission, is.

THE NATIONAL ASSEMBLY ROOMS,
HIGH HOLBORN.—The above popular and splen-
didly-appointed-BALL ROOM, with its various elegant re-
freshment rooms; is NOW OPEN for the Season. The re-
cent elaborate decorations and improvements have rendered
this the most fashionable and popular rendezvous of the
metropolis. Mr. W. M. Packer's celebrated Band performs
nightly selections from favourite operas and the latest and
most fashionable waltzes, &c. Doors open at eight o'clock.
Admission, is.

GARIBALDI'S PROGRESS THROUGH

CAL ABBLA.

(From the Special Correspondent of the Times.)

COSENZA, AUG. 31.

The task of a newspaper correspondent privileged to tra-
vel with Garibaldi's Staff is far less easy than people at
home can conceive. The trumpet's call rouses us at 3
o'clock in the morning from what seldom happens to be
better bed than the bare ground. We are to start at 4, by
moon and starlight, but seldom really manage to be off be-
fore 5, et the peep of day. Garibaldi's officers must be their
own grooms, for the soldiers appointed to each of them as
ordinanze, or servants; are not yet mounted, and seldom, if
ever, keep up with their masters.. All the work of dressing,
feeding, watering, saddling, and bridling their horses falls
upon themselves, with actually no exception, save only in
the case of the General himself, to whose horse's wants two
of his favourite colonels, Trecchi and Paygi—the former a
noble and wealthy gentleman, and aide-de-camp to King
Victor Emmanuel—are proud to minister. The horses are
stabled here and there in distant cowhouses ; forage must
often be fetched from a great way off; the horses must not
unfrequently be watered at the stream down the valley a
mile off. Then the shoes and the saddlery must be looked
to ; rough blacksmiths and awkward cobblers summoned
from anywhere they can be found, and set to tasks for which
they are miserably unfit. At last the General mounts and
is off, and then all this preparatory work is cut short, and
every one scampers away after him as he best can, well
aware that the leader waits for no man. We ride for three
or four hours in the morning, come to a halt at 10 or 11
o'clock at some village, or in a wood, where we have to look
a long time for a basket of dry bread and hard cheese or
sausage for ourselves, and frequently nothing but stubble
hay, or a few leaves of the ripening Indian corn, for our
steeds. Again, we set out in the afternoon at 3 or 4 o'clock
and travel on jaded and exhausted till dusk or dark, when
our new night quarters are beset with new hardships
and difficulties, putting us all to our wits' ends. The,
heat and dust are tremendous, for the summer has
been unusually fierce, as the people inform us,
even for semi-tropical Calabria, and there has not
been a drop of rain for the last three months.
Occasionally, by way of variety, we come to lordly quar-
ters, some Palazzo dell'lntendenza, or some nobleman's
mansion in the principal towns, and there, travel-stained
and dusty, we sit down to champagne suppers or cold colla-
tions, supplied with the rarest luxuries. Our horses or our-
selves carry all we possess; hardly a man indulges in a
change of linen ; most of us wear no linen whatever, the
red flannel shirt enamoring all purposes of outward and in-
ward raiment; and my gloves, the only gloves worn in all
Garibaldi's suite, have cost me a deal of ridicule. Nothing
is scarcer than water in most places. Few are very fasti-
dious about their ablutions, and a bath is a treat reserved
for the gods alone. Our very scanty supply of the first
necessaries of life, brandy-flasks, tobacco pouches, elates of
soap—everything has a perverse knack of losing itself, and
we have the gift of dispensing with all we have not got, of
forgetting the advantages of the good things we have lost,
and bearing all with a Diogenes-like self-denial ; cool tem-
per, and admirable humour. Not so our patient, sober,
but unreasonable horses, who think a ride of 25 to 30 miles
a day, with torrid heat, choking dust, bad grooming, and
worse than short commons, rather too bad for them ; and,
although they jog on and say nothing, still they look done
up and disconsolate, and are ready to drop with fatigue
from the moment we mount them in the morning to the
time we rid them of our burden in the evening. My poor
young gray Calabrian stumbles wofully, and I, to save his
knees and my own neck, have to lead him by the rein down
the long weary descents. Garibaldi himself has his choice
of two or three first-rate chargers, and he seldom rides in
the afternoon when he has been in the saddle in the morn-
ing, or betakes himself to his carriage in the morning when
he anticipates a ride in the evening. But the rest of us
have only one poor brute apiece—the rider too much for his
steed,-and the latter almost too great a source of trouble and
care for the former. Yet we all bear up cheerfully ; you
hear no complaints; our worst evils are capital themes for
endless jokes. You should see our dark, baked faces, closely
shorn heads, and long, dusty beards. On we must march ;
we are in full chase of the Neapolitans, and we must ride
them down, though the race be between the hare and the
tortoise.

We left Itogliano at four o'clock this afternoon, and
came to this place after four hours' journey. From [tog-
liano I sent you my last letter, bearing this day's date. At
Cosenza we found, besides the town, the whole manhood of
Calabria Citra up and in arms to welcome us. All the ave-
nues to the town, and all its brilliantly lighted streets and
squares were encumbered with armed bands, moving about
in all directions. By this time Garibaldi, whose whole host
is toiling slow;ly after us, has no other forces than those the
country supplies, and if we can trust the mien and bearing
of these tall, sturdy, grizzly mountaineers, he needs no other.
They are only armed with sporting guns, truly, and many
of them cnly with pikes, javelins, or implements of hus •
bandry, hay forks, scythes, axes, and every variety of un-
couth murderous tools ; but they, or most of them, exhibit
untamed strength and fierce courage. You would say that
every man has left his home and every man is fit to bear
moms. Truly it is the Hazione, the whole nation up and do-
ing—a nation which the Bourbon exhausted all his strength
to crush and annihilate, but which always gave him greater
uneasiness than all the rest of his kingdom put together,
and which now, on the first removal of the iron pressure,
rises all untamed, never, as one would fain hope, to submit
to the yoke again. Brave Calabrians I And you should see
the gentleness, the tenderness, I should say, not to speak of
the wild joy, of the mad enthusiasm with which they wel-
come their liberator. Their manners are very primitive,
their mode of living somewhat worse than patriarchal. Not
only do they beset the Dictator himself with a tumult of
greeting which threatens to choke him, but they hug and
squeeze and kiss us, any of us, any part of us, of our horses,
of our clothes, and trappings they can lay hold of, unmind-
ful of manful dignity, heedless of our comfort; a savage
love which neither entreaty nor rebuff can keep of. Then
they would cut themselves into pieces to serve us ; they
jostle each other to be of service to us ; but it is all much
hurry, little speed ; :they know not which way to turn to
make themselves useful ; they only imperfectly under-
stand our wants, and are at a loss in what
manner to supply our demands. The arrival of our
Staff, the marching in of our first column, creates a world
of bustle and confusion wherever we go. One man

seize. my horse's rein, hands it over to another, and
this again to a thitd, till the poor starving animal is lost
sight of ; then we are led to the right for a stable, and back
again to the left, and up and down all about the place, till
I begin to think that there is no stable in it, or none at
least that has not more inmates than it has accommodation
for. By degrees, however, everything finds its level—all
that the town affords is placed at our disposal, and we are
made as comfortable as circumstances allow. Then comes
the question of night quarters; the good townsfolk snatch
us from each other's hands ; the man who has got me as a
prize takes me perhaps hall-a-mile from head-quarters and
half-a-mile from my horse's stable; he spreads me a couch,
to which I prefer his dining table or the bare ground ; offers
me a cup of wine to drink, and one of water to wash with;
he closes the window I wish to keep open, assuring me I
shall catch my death of a fever if I breathe the night dew ;
and as I disregard his well-meant warning, and insist on
having free air, he waits till I am fast asleep, and creeps in
stealthily and fastens his odious shutters, as I soon find
out by the choking of the foul air of his dingy apartment.
The supper in the evening, however, is always plentiful,
and the coffee in the morning never-failing, for the poor
man and his good %luau sit up all night for my sake to

see that I lack nothing. The viands are savoury and heat-
ing, the coffee thick and, why sliould I not say it, nasty;
but it is "What I have that do I give thee," and I am only
too glad it is no worse.

To ride all day, to write the better part of the night, and
be up again at 3 o'clock in the morning, is not the hardest
part of your correspondent's difficulties. A letter is written
with such clearness of mind as strong coffee and a bitter
cigar can produce ; but, when my own task is done, what
about that of the postman ? All regular intercourse in
front of us is cut off by the enemy ; all communication be-
hind us is interrupted by the pressing demands of the
troops for every four-footed beast or mode of conveyance.
So long as we were near the Strait of the sea, any boat
bound to Sicily could convoy a letter to Messina, where it
could take its chance of the steamers plying between that
port or Palermo and Genoa or Marseilles ; but now we
must compound with the land mails, and every post-
office is closed, and it seems to be no man's business to
trouble himself either with his own or with any otherman's
correspondence. Garibaldi himself seems to keep up no in-
tercourse with the. outer world, and ho is, perhaps, most
wise so to do; his secretary, at least, never could lend me
either help or advice; and my letters are dropped here and
there like. Sibylline leaves, to take their chance of any
friendly breeze that may waft them to their destination;
Henceforward I do not expect to have an opportunity of
sending a letter till we reach Naples—an event for which
Garibaldi is said to have appointed the Bth of September.
I shall therefore jot down a few notes in the shape of a
journal, and have them ready for the first sure mail to
England.

COSENZA, SBPT. 1.

Garibaldi leaves this place at his usual morning hour,
with the intention of driving to Castrovillari, 50 miles off.
All his staff and suite expected to niake athalt of at least
three days, and perhaps even a whole week; in this town,
and hoped to be able to rest and refit themselves. The order
to march on created as much consternation as surprise, for
none of our horses were fit for ono mile's further journey.
The General himself, with a few of his staff, drove away in
carriages at 5 o'clock. After ransacking the whole town in
vain till 10 o'clock for a conveyance of any kind, Major Cal-
desi, myself, and an aide .de-camp of General Sirtori, the
chief commander of the staff, bearer of important des-
patches, pressed the Archbishop's coach and horses, and are
off instantly.

TARSIA, SAME DAY, 1 O'CLOCK P.M.

Garibaldi halts at Tarsia ; he orders his staff, under Col.
Paygi, to march by easy journeys at the head of his columns
and will himself proceed in the direction of Naples with a
few of his aides-de-camp, in carriages. His plans begin
now to be clear to me. Dr. Bertani, lately raised to the
rank of a general, has just landed with 4,000 men freshly
arrived from North Italy, at Paola, the seaport nearest to
Cosenza. Bertani himself met the General last evening at
Cosenza. Garibaldi—who, although he may gratify a useful
friend's vanity by bestowing on a doctor the empty title of
a general, is too wise to trust him with the command even
of a company—sent this morning General Turr from Co-
senza to Paola to take command of the newly arrived
troops, bidding Bertani accompany himself in his carriage.
Turr is to re-embark Bertani's forces and convey them by
sea to Sapri, in the principality of Salerno, as we hear
that the whole of Calabria and Basilicata are now in full
insurrection, and the Royal troops are concentrating their
forces near Salerno. It is most likely that all our divisions
will equally move forward en enehelon by sea, and that
few, if any, will be left to follow the main road by land.

the highway, and the means by which the various corpo-
rations allowed them first a carlino (about 5d.) a head;

then three grana are now exhausted, and the, poor
deserters' application for even such paltry dole is met with
a flat refusal. Garibaldi has his own army to feed ; and
the very dispersion of these-miserable fugitives over so long
a line of march would render the distribution of relief an
impossibility.
,His secretary bestows a piastre on every
man who comes near to the General's carriage ; but that is
but a drop of water in a vast conflagration. No doubt a vast
number of these men must perish, yet the am' able long-
suffering features of their Italian nature come forth in all
this agony ; for although none of them are ashamed to beg,
the thought that violence might wrest from their fellow-
beings that charity which their solicitation cannot elicit,
never seems to strike any of this long train of desolate
vagrants. Would a disbanded host of Northmen, say of
Englishmen, thus tamely lay down and die ? Would they
not rather lay a strong hand on anything coming within
reach, and struggle tooth and nail for dear life ? Thus far
I have heard of no excess, or even minor offence laid to the
charge of these poor sufferers, nor of any instance of harsh-
ness evinced towards them by the inhabitants of the country
they go through. They must needs perish, and the people
cannot, to any great extent, help it. From the summit of
Merano we came to Rotonda, a place where Garibaldi was ex-
pected to halt for his noon rest; we drove on to Castelluccio,
vfliere wo fell in with a very different set -of fugitives ;
suddenly wo found ourselves surrounded by a multitude
of armed royal troops, whose horse and cannon encum-
bered the whole of the narrow streets of the town. This
was the brigade of General Cardarelli, who had capitulated
at Cosenza with the revolted people and had obtained per-
mission from the insurgents to retire mith all the honours
of war, retreating upon Salerno. In the terms of this capi •
tulation every day's march was set down, and by the time
we found them, had they kept to their fcuille de route, they
ought already to have reached their destination. Castel-
luccio is a small town er village with narrow streets, which
could with difficulty muster up at the utmost 300 national
guards, unable to cope with about 1,500 Neapolitans, well
armed and appointed, and whose appearance bespoke no
forced marches or any other wearing hardships. Wo shud-
dered as we thought that in an hour, if he followed close,
Garibaldi, with a suite of no more than eight men, would
have to go through the place, stop there for a change of
horses, and find himself at the mercy of men who only a
few days before were in aprms against him. Our appre-
hensions were increased, as several officers accosted us,
and, in their own name, and in the name of their general,

inquired of us when Garibaldi might be expected. Soros
of the townspeople also assured us that Cardarelli was
a Royalist of the darkest die, and that two Sicilian officers
in his suite had been secretly loading their pistols at their
holsters. An attempt against the life or liberty of Gari-
baldi might at this time, if successful, turn the tide of Ita-
lian events, and the perpetrator of the dark deed we hinted
at would be sure of a rich reward either at Naples or
Vienna, if not at Paris itself. In our great uneasiness we
sent, one after another, two messengers to inform General
Cosenz of the state of things at Castelluccio, and of our
worst apprehensions. We whispered some words of cau-
tion and courage to the national guards in the town, and
proceeding to Lauria we sent them a reinforcement of 300
armed men from that town. W e waited at Laurie till
10 o'clock at night, and heard with satisfaction that Gari-
baldi had stopped at Rotonda. It seems that Gari-
baldi, warned by our messengers, and put on his guard
by other persons, had come to the resolution of pro-
longing his stay at Rotonda ; and had sent Trecchi and
another officer to Cardarelli, asking for what reasons he had
chosen to violate his capitulation, and to tarry for more than
three days on the road. He at the same time directed the
Neapolitan general to march at once on to Lauria and La-
gonegro. Cardarelli accounted for his delay by stating that
he had been short of provisions, and that his men had been
overpowered by the heat and fatigue of their march. He
further evinced his desire to bring his brigade, which he
described as a compact and well organised corps, into Gari-
baldi's service, as he and his officers were patriots at heart,
and willing to fight for the national cause. He concluded
by offering to comply with Garibaldi's orders as to his im-
mediate departure, and signed himself "King Victor Em-
manuel and Garibaldi's devoted subject."
Reassured by these tidings, and by the arrival of Carda-
relli's column at Laurie, we left this latter place and pro-
ceeded to Lagonegro.
LAGONEGRO (s.tAtE DATE), 9 o'CLocK Mon v.
Trecshi and his companions have come on to this place.
Garibaldi left Rotondo., but is coming on by mountain paths
to avoid Cardarelli's Neapolitans on the road. The Carda-
relli Brigade is all drawn up in arms here on the square,
Infantry, Lancers,"Carabineers, and Artillery. General
Turr, who landed last evening with 2,500 men at Sapri,
will be here in a few hours. It seems that Garibaldi does
not altogether trust Cardarelli and his troops, but is wil-
ling to let_ them march on in front of his own forces, to see
how they will behave before the enemy.
AULETTA, PRINCIPALITY OF PALERMO,
SEPT. 4.

We travelled post yesterday from Lagonogro to Sala and
this place, pr atly amused by the stir created by Colonel
Peard's long board and Calabrian hat, which caused him to
bo mistaken for Garibaldi. Tho reception ho meets with
every where is perfectly overwhelming. It is to no purpose
that we try to undeceive the frantic people. They profess
that they will respect the General's incog., but that they
cannot be deceived as to his likeness, having seen so
many thousands of his portraits ; thus the Colonel
must submit and accept the divine hon6urs intended for
another. Meanwhile, the report of Garibaldi's arrival at
the avant posts will not fail to add to the enthusiasm of
the people already hastening in arms from all the neigh-
bouring country, and to strike dismay and confusion among
the Royal troops. The latter, we are told, are fallen back
from Eboli:and Pagliarone, and are described as huddling
up at Salerno, greatly dispirited, and a prey to dissension
and insubordination. Bosco and Pianolli are said to be in
command there.

We found here at our advanced posts Luigi Fabrizi, of
Modena, a well-informed-officer, who has been labouring to
make the best of the naturally strong position these moun-
tain gorges afford. The valley of Diano, sufficiently wide
and level in its upper course, 'contracts itself at Pella and
Auletta, and its narrow, winding gorges are protected by
several towns perched up at prodigious heights, command-
ing all the accesses to its deep and narrow basin. All Fa-
briei's excellent work is not unlikely to turn out unavailing,
as the war will be carried off to distant quarters, down to
the walls of Salerno, if not to Naples itself. For the rest,
Auletta being the key to the Calabrias and Basilitica, and
the point at which the road from Naples branches off to
Potenza and Cosonza, is a position of the greatest import-
ance.

NAPLES, SEPT. 7.

When Garibaldi prophesied, upon first landing at Reggio,
that he would, on the Bth of this month, be in Naplos to at-
tend the famous solemnity of Pie di Grotta, men shook their
wiso heads, for mere material difficulties, the length of the
march, the heat of the season, and other circumstances,
seemed to render such a saying a mere idle boast ; yet here
we are—we, Garibaldi's suite, who precede him one day
before the festive dateby him assigned, and here, in all pro-
bability, ho will himself be is the course of the afternoon
or evening, ready to perform the King's part in the half-
religious, half military ceremony for which to .morrow is
set apart.

We occupied Salerno yesterday at 4 o'clock in the morn-
ing,—Col. Peard and myself, as Garibaldi's forerunners, as
you will have learnt from a letter addressed to you from that
place. As we had done at Eboli, we took possession of the
telegraph, and by conveying to the Court of Naples speedy
information of Garibaldi's movements, and by turns ac-
quainting the General with the enemy's position, we hast-
ened a catastrophe which had long been inevitable.
Having, by the presence of Garibaldi's double, sufficiently
electrified Salerno, and hearing that a large force of 12,000
Royal troops were assembled at Nocera, eight miles from
Salerno, we resolved upon a short excursion to La Cava, a
midway spot between Salerno and Nocera, from which the
Neapolitan vanguard of two battalions had just been with-
drawn. We drove there in the carriage of the Marquis
Atenolfi, a patriotic nobleman, and one of the magnates of
the place, and Colonel Peard's appearance produced its
wonted effect. Not only were we guilty of no imposition,
but we end,,avoured, to the best of our abilities, to cure the
self-blinded people of their delusion. Their joy at the sight
of the supposed Liberator was frantic. They listened to no
explanation or remonstrance ; even when falling in with
our denials and the colonel's disclaimers, they assured us
they appreciated our reasons for preserving the incognito,
and promised to " keep our secret." In the meanwhile they
produced every variety of Garibaldi's likeness, compared
them with the supposed original, and pronounced the iden-
tity to be undeniable.
And, truly, upon the error being satisfactorily estab,lished,
there was great happiness at La Cava. If the people s
feel-
ings might be judged by their noise, no doubt Garibaldi's
benefits would have been bestowed on a grateful people.
There is only one word to describe the joy evinced by the
masses at La Cava—no less than at Salerno and at all other
places between Reggio and Naples—and that is madness, a
madness evinced by men of all ranks, exhibited without re-
straint by men of every ago end condition. Those who
thought that the Neapolitans had sunk too deep to under-
stand and appreciate the blessings of freedom will not, at
least, deny that they had been made sufficiently mature by
long martyrdom to value the importance of their release
from servitude. The past is at an end for them ; the future
can have nothing in store to compare with it. Redemption
from slavery is for them no idle metaphorical expression.
At every step, in every group you speak with.men from
whose limbs the fetters were removed by the actual arrival
of Garibaldi, or by the terror his approach inspired.
You would almost say every third man you meet has
been a galley-slave ; every one has his own woful
tale to toll haYe endured tic tortwee of roorio,