The Sun.
London, England, 1860-09-18 00:00:00

rHE SUN, LONDON, TUESDAY EVENING, SEPTEMBER 18, 1860.

carriages was in waiting at 10 o'clock, and we ob-
tained a seat in the carriage next to that in which
Garibaldi was. Throughout the journey to Naples,
in every village, at every station, the joy and en-
thusiasm of the people exceeded the powers of de-
scription. Women and girls presented flags, threw
flowers into -the carriages, struggled to kiss the
hand of the General. Mayors and syndics ejacu-
lated their gratulations ; priests and monks stood,
surrounded by their wretched flocks, on the hill
side, and shouted their ryas, and, holding the
crucifix in one hand and the sword in the other,
waved them in the air, and bawled out their bene-
dictions. As the train passed the King's guard at
Portici the soldiers threw their caps into the air,
and joined lustily in the Viva Garibaldi !
"We are in Naples. No pen can describe the
scene; the whole population thronged the station.
Bands, banners, bandieri, National Guards, car-
riages, ladies of rank and station attired in their
white dresses, trimmed with Garibaldian colours,
pink and white—thousands of male and female
lazzaroni—every human being in the city almost,
formed the procession to the Palazzo Angri, and
there he is installed, and shows himself at the win-
dows. The Y shouts of " Viva Garibaldi !" " Viva
Italia Una !" are deafening, and thousands crowd
the staircases and spacious saloons of this beautiful
palace. In the evening the whole city is illumi-
nated. Processions block up every street ; all men
are armed. Thousands of women carry a new
poniard in their girdles. What a scene of blood-
shed has for the present been averted! Who had
thus armed this entiusiastic and excitable people I
In Naples you can seldom probe to the truth. Some
tell you that the King had done so, and intended
to turn the mad rabble loose upon the citizens ;
others say that secret committees in the interest of
Garibaldi have for weeks been providing means of
resistance to the troops, and been most prodigal in
expenditure of money and promises. However it
may be, the hour may come when excesses may
sully a hitherto bloodless revolution. The tumult
is great, the agitation excessive, but I am inclined
to think that the thousands are enjoying the scene
as a carnival rather than exhibiting in their ebulli-
tions any strong political sentiment. The fact is
that the King has been unpopular with the lazza-
roni and the lowest orders of Naples, who number
more than half the population ; his war has been
against the intellect and free thought of his sub-
jects. The priesthood, the soldiery, and the
lowest orders have been his implements ; by
such means as these he has destroyed all
freedom of speech, of thought, of action, and
to the ot roXXoc' of Naples it is a matter
of indifference whether they render tribute
to the King or to Garibaldi. But the
enthusiasm is at ' blood-heat,' and for days
it will so continue. In the meantime the Pro-
visional Government is in course of construction.
Some of the late King's Ministers gave in their ad-
hesion without hesitation ; some require time for
thought. The ladies of the Court are suddenly taken
ill, and cannot follow the Queen to Gaeta!
'Decrees' are being placarded on the wars;
every café is thronged ; the press, now free, is
pouring forth its new journals ; the arms of
the King are painted out, or pasted over with
brown paper (more pi udent, if the purpose be
temporary), and the curtain closes for a moment
upon the great drama being enacted here. The
next scene will present new difficulties, and is
anxiously awaited by every Government in Europe.
" There's not a history but shows a thousand
crowned conspirators against the people, and the
crowned head of the besotted Bourbon is at length
overtaken by retributive justice."

TEE PRINCE'S VISIT TO CANADA.

(From tiro Special Correspondent of the Times.)
OTTAWA, CANADA WEST, SEPT. 3.
To continue my diary of the progress I must be-
gin with stating that his Royal Highness and suite
left Montreal on the morning of Friday the 31st,
at 8 o'clock. Notwithstanding the earliness of the
hour a good deal of public enthusiasm would doubt-
less have been manifested along his route to the
station, but it rained. It is taken quite as a matter
of course now that the rain is to attend at nearly
all the ceremonies incident to the arrival, depar-
ture, and entertainment of his Royal Highness.
Processions under umbrellas, and Court suits and
uniforms swathed in macintoshes, have been the
normal state of things throughout from the first
day of the landing at Newfoundland down to his
arrival in this wild picturesque, most modern, and
most muddy capital of Canada. So the demonstra-
tion of popular feeling was rather damped out on
the morning of the departure from Montreal; for,
with whatever drizzle the weather may content
itself while the Prince remains at a town, it makes
no mistake at all about the matter when it heralds
his arrival or accompanies his departure. On those
occasions it may always be depended on for such
violent intensity as " the oldest inhabitant" has,
according to the colonial papers, declared repeatedly
he never saw before. The route the Prince took to
Ottawa was a sort of compound progress by rail
and boat alternately, though a mere nothing for
variety to the journey which he commences at 8
a.m. to-day, when he will have to scamper through
a wild untravelleti country in a series of short stages
by carriage, rail, steamers, and canoes, emerging
at last upon Brockville, where he sleeps for the
night, to start at daybreak again to morrow morn-
ing through the Thousand Islands for Kingston.
His route from Montreal was admirably arranged
to afford him the best and most picturesque view of
the country through which he passed. After once
leaving Montreal, with its quaint, tall, silent streets,
and marine limestone houses, there is very little
to see before you come to St. Anne's, and over this
part of the journey he accordingly went by
special train. The outlying country round Mon-
treal is not at all impressive. The land has all been
cleared, and has, accordingly, a close, well-shaven
aspect, the dull green uniformity of which is only
broken at rare intervals by rough timber hedges or
log huts, both of which seem about equally well cal-
culated for purposes of shelter. Now and then a
larger farmhouse than the rest was announced by
the hoarse screaming of the whistle, to drive the
cows off the line, or else a station was passed which
might with propriety have been used as a cowhouse,
if by any process known to carpenters it could only
have been made moderately weather-tight. But
beyond such poor stimulants to curiosity there was
nothing worth seeing, or at all calculated to inter-
rupt the dreary monotony of railway travelling
whether in Canada or the States.
At St. Anne's the Royal party alighted to pro-
ceed on board the steamer for Carillon, and at this
point there was a prospect worthy of attention, even
for those who had seen Halifax and St. John's, the
Saguenay, and the St. Lawrence. The St. Anne's
river is one of the most picturesque (at least at this
point) of all the many noble tributaries of the great
Canadian Father of Waters. The stream is wide,
dark, and rapid, hedged in by steep, lofty, richly-
wooded banks, and forcing a swift and devious way
through little aits and islands, all clothed with
trees down to the water's edge. A railway bridge of
singular beauty spans the stream, where two steep
headlands confine it to its narrowest limits, and
from this point the finest prospect can be gained.
You look down far beneath you on the quick black
sheet of water, closed in by hills and cliffs, and
studded over all its surface with beautiful little
islands, while higher up as on a slope is the summit
of the stream, marked by a dim, rough, tumbling
line of foam, where the rapids of St. Anne's, which
Moore has so immortalised in his Canadian boat-
song, begin their rush and whirl. As compared
with the rapids of the St. Lawrence, the great
breakers of the Long Sault, or the mighty rush of
the cascades, those of St. Anne's, of course, are no-
thing. But there is something wild, yet quiet in its
rich scenery, something in the equal solemn flow of the
rapids, which befits the plaintive music in which
Moore has sung them, and which makes the whole
scene seem not strange, but a beautiful prospect,
with which you were long familiar and had long
been parted from. From this, the quietest little
gem of Canadian scenery, his Royal Highness
went by steamer to Carillon. Here we again took
the railway across a wild, woody country, where,
amid the great forests of pine, the leaves of the
maple, already assuming their scarlet livery, tell
of the Indian summer being near at hand, and of
the woods arraying themselves in all the gorgeous
colours of Amercan scenery in the Fall. It is very
early in the season yet to sec among the forests
here that rich confusion of bright colours of every
hue with which the almost Arctic winter of
Canada heralds its formidable approach. But the
late cold rains have hastened matters in the last
few weeks, and the deep green of the forests of
these regions is fast breaking into groups of reds
and yellows, and the flaunting fire weeds, wild
geraniums, and wood lilies are nearly all withe Ted
and gone.
After a run of 14 miles by rail the party again
embarked on board the Phcenix and steamed away
to Ottawa. The whole day had been a sort of ex-
aggeration of April weather, with wind, hot sun,
and showers of heavy rain. But as the steamer

neared the new and very upstart village now called
the capital of Canada of course the sky became
black and overcast, and the rain came down with
the usual drenching vehemence familiar to Royal
landings in this tour.
Just as this set in, the procession of lumber men
in their canoes, paddling down the Ottawa to meet
the steamer, came in sight. A more striking or
more characteristic procession in honour of the
Prince has not been seen since he landed in Ame-
rica. At first it seemed like a dim crowd of red
colour on the water, but as it drew nearer and
nearer the quick regular chants of the Canadian
boatmen could be heard, and the long sharp out-
lines of the canoes, with their quaint ornamented
prows, just turning up above the surface of the
water, over which they came gliding like arrows,
without noise or ripple, were seen. All these little
skiffs were of light birch bark, beautifully painted,
and each carried from six to 15 men, in the scarlet
tunics which on State occasions is the lumberer's
grandest uniform. Their song had nothing in it of
the long melodious air which in England is popu-
larly supposed to be peculiar t 9 these Canadian
voyageurs. The half-caste Canadians only sing in
their canoes when beating the long, light, thin,
rickety cradles in which they journey for thousands
of miles up against a stream, or coming full speed
down it through rocks and over rapids which would
make a man giddy to look at. Their song, there •
fore, is only meant to accompany the quick beat of
their paddies—a strange rhyme, which the man in
the bow gives out, and to which the rest of the
crew respond with one or two short words of hoarse
chorus, as trey strike their paddles straight down
over the sides into the current. But all music
sounds well on the water, and the quick, rough
strains of this song came modulated by the distance
into perfect melody, and the effect of the whole—

he mass of scarlet canoes dancing lightly down the
river, the bold, picturesque headlands on which
Ottawa is intended to be built, the grand heavy
falls of the river in the background boiling up into
a cloud of smoky spray, as if the river was on fire,
all made together one of the strangest, wildest, and
most beautiful scenes that the Prince has yet seen.
Lumberers care little for rain, or frost, or snow,
or, indeed, any other form in which nature may show
her inclemency, so the downpour of Friday night
made no matter of difference to them as they paddled
down to the Prince's steamer, shouting and waving
their paddles with half-frantic gestures. They
seemed delighted, not only at the honour of being
chosen to receive the Prince's steamer, but at the
opportunity it gave them of showing their strength
and skill as they whirled round their canoes in
the water, and, breaking out again into their
wild, quick song, kept pace with the Phcenix
with as much ease as if she had been a sand-
barge. It would be difficult in any country to
have seen a finer, more athletic, and, I may
add, a browner body of young men than these
same 1,200 lemberers. Their boats seemed to shoot
along without an effort, and, among some 120, colli-
sion seemed inevitable, but just as one heavy canoe,
impelled by 14 powerfel brawny fellows, seemed on
the point of running down another, a quick turn of
the long paddle in the stern altered its course in an
instant, and, without stopping their hurried song,
they all kept gliding on together, so light, so quick,
so easy in their movements, that it more resembled
flying in its gentle rapidity than any other motion
I have yet seen. Why do none of our London row-
ing clubs try a canoe on the Thames, the water of
which above bridge is better suited to such light
craft than many rivers here, where they are much
used ? To see a man carry down a canoe weighing
some 501 b. to the water's edge, launch it, let half-a-
dozen people into it, and then force it over the water
at the rate of 10 knots an hour would be "a caution"
to some of our outrigger amateurs. In large canoes,
capable of containing 25, or even 00, men, the
Indians thinks nothing of venturing on Lake Huron
in a gale, though the sea there is sometimes as dan-
gerous in its way as in the North Atlantic.
The Lumberers, who in this city welcomed the
Prince in their procrssion of canoes, are a race of
men peculiar to Canada, and who make this intended
capital (as being about one of the wildest spots in
the country) their head-quarters. As their name
implies, they are the working men for carrying on
the great timber trade in which nearly three-fourths
of all Canada and the provinces are engaged. In
the depth of the winter their work in the backwoods
begins. They then start. forth to fell the huge white
and red pines, which are drawn out of the snow by
oxen and piled near the frozen rivers till the return
of spring gives them an opportunity of floating
them down in immense rafts and masses, which fill
all the surface of the streams, in May, for miles
and miles. Of course, in these expeditions, which
last for months and months together, the men
lead a hardy, backwoods sort of life, which so
nearly approaches that of the Indian that, ex-
cept in the drunkenness and physical infirmity of
the latter, there is but little difference as to the
mode of life between the two. Their adventures
up in the mountains with bears and wolves, or,
worse still, in struggling with hunger and with cold,
would fill whole volumes ; but in spite of its labour
the life has a charm of recklessness about it
which seems to be perfectly fascinating, and which
leads the spirited young labourers of Canada to
join it, ads, with us, all the scrapegraces and dare-
devils of a poor family are sure to go into the navy.
By hurling the pine logs over cliffs and dragging
them down ravines the lumberers before the thaw
sets in manage to collect along the banks of the
various tributaries of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence
some millions of cubic feet of timber, and when the
ice-bound streams are free once more their more
arduous and dangerous labour commences. Loosely
joined together in huge, rough, uncouth rafts, the
logs are set adrift, and, with a few poles and mis-
shapen oars to guide them, the lumberer goes in
charge down currents and rapids of deep rivers,
swollen and flowing fiercely with the waters from
the melting snow. It is all very well as long as
these rafts hold together, but hurried and tumbled
over rapids they often break up, and woe betide the
unhappy luuibcrers who are on them when the
great logs come rolling in fierce confusion one over
the other, and go smashing down the rapids from
rock to rock till they are all cast adrift in splinters.
When such accidents occur, as they do frequently,
it sometimes happens that the logs get so wedged
and bound together on the brow of some stony rapid
that they remain immoveable, and all the miles of
rafts which are following behind are stopped at
once. It then becomes necessary to cut the ob-
structing logs away with axes. Only the bravest,
coolest, and most experienced of the lumberers can
attempt this most dangerous of ail their tasks, for
when once the logs which bar the passage are half
cut through the might of the press behind breaks
them like straws, and some 10,000 trunks of trees
conic plunging down with a rush and confusion
that but too often renders all the coolness and
activity of the lumbermen who are trying to escape
the avalanche of no avail. In such wild expedi-
tions and dangerous feats these lumherers pass
their early lives, gaining sufficient, if they are pru-
dent or saving, after a few years' labour, to com-
mence trading on their own account from Ottawa
—the great centre of the lumber trade of Canada.
Of the manner in which the timber reaches
Ottawa, and how it is then run down the celebrated
timber shoots along the fells, I shall have more to say
by-and-by, when I to the exploits of his Royal
Highness in this new capital. As a conclusion to
the outline of the lumbermen's history, it is only
necessary to say that very few are English. Three-
fourths are French Canadians, or what are styled
as such, though having a certain proportion of half-
caste Indians among them, whose flat features,
coarse hair, and white skins, at once betray their
hybrid origin. It is singular that the half-caste
Indian girls are often remarkable for their beauty,
while with the men the mixture of the white blood
seems only to result in additional and more
inveterate ugliness.
The Prince landed at Ottowa a little before dusk.
There was a Royal salute and there would have
been a procession but for the rain, which, as has
been told, was heavy enough to have almost cleaned
the streets of this so-called city, than which I can-
not possibly imagine harder work for water, no
matter how profusely applied. His Royal Highness
and suite were lodged at the Victoria Hotel, which
and the Roman Catholic Cathedral at present form
the only two buildings worthy of the name in
Ottawa. All other and less distinguished visitors
shifted as well as they could, which was ill
enough. Most of the hotels at Ottawa have a strong
reformatory element running through them all,
which manifests itself by rules to have doors
bolted and lights out by 11 p.m., which requires
everyone to be up by half-past seven o'clock or
go without his breakfast, and which otherwise
suggests almost the rigours of a prison discipline
with all the discomforts of a bad hotel. Matters
in these respects were not much mended by the
arrival of an immense train from Montreal, laden
solely with colonial dignitaries and others of suffi-
cient influence and station to be expected to follow
the Prince, and all of whom were disembarked in
the mud and fell easy victims to swamps and
morasses in their search after cabs and lodgings.
There was a general debacle among the luggage
that night, and only those who, quite irrespective
of ownership, were wise enough to take whatever
trunks came first to hand got anything at all.
People are sanguine enough to believe that at
some remote period (probably when Ottawa is
built) the trunks which have been lost in this tour
will turn up somewhere. I have tried this kind of
to face
..
consolation on several of my own friends, who
ha,;-e been thus bereaved by the railways and left
a three months' tour with only an odd
pair of gloves "d a
As a rule, howevt:, such sympathy having be-
pockethandkerchief.
come rather common of late', has lost the very little

charm it did possess in the earlier stages of this
progress. Only two days since I was informed
that a gentleman with a sumptuous wardrobe, pre-
pared for following the Prince throughout, re-
ceived a notice that his trunks had gone per last
mail to England. lam bound to add that this in-
timation was accompanied with a courteous assur-
ance that they should be returned at the first op-
portunity. The fact is that the American system
of checking luggage through to destinations—ad-
mirable in ordinary travelling—does not answer
for unusual emergencies. Only a certain number of
brass checks are allowed for each pipe, and when
these run out your luggage gets checked wildly all
over the States of Canada, and at last doesn't get
checked at all, when, of coirse, it is left behind or
taken on, or something or other done with it in the
long interval which elapses before you see it again
—if ever you do so at all. By the merest accident I
discovered, when coming up from Quebec, that one
of my trunks was " checked" through to Chicago
and another for Portland, both intended for Mon-
treal.

The morning of Saturday, the Ist of September,
was really bright and beautiful, a fact which is
worth recording, considering that the day was
fixed for ceremonial and rejoicing in honour of the
Prince. With colonial promptitude the people got
up in what Brummel would call the middle of the
night, and at 8 a.m. the one or two good thorough-
fares of Ottawa were as thronged as they could
well be, considering that the "capital" only boasts
some 12,000 inhabitants--very little if at all more
than now belongs to Sydenham or Norwood.
Ottawa, the capital of Canada, is such a mon-
strous absurdity, that, like all who ever penetrated
to its wilds, I can never treat its metropolitan fu-
ture as anything more than a bad practical joke, in
which no one ever saw any meaning, but which,
now that the Prince has laid the foundation stone
of " intended" Parliament buildings, is considered
as having gone rather too far, and is slowly but
surely awakening a deep feeling of indignation
throughout all Canada. The site which has been
chosen for the capital is one of the most picturesque
I ever saw for any city in my life, save that on
which Constantinople kas been founded • but a
merely pieturesq-ue situation is no'reason for build-
ing a capital when all other requisites are deficient,
or if so, the Chaudiere Falls or those of Montmo-
renci would certainly have been preferable to this.
Ottawa must always be the centre of the lumber
trade ; with a few thousand pounds' outlay it may
be made an impregnable fortress ; but a great city,
much less a capital, it never can become. The geo-
graphical features of the country are against it.
Surrounded by wide shallow rapids, over which the
great bluffs of cliff and headlands lean in beautiful
disarray, it will require more than another Victoria-
bridge ever to give means of communication be-
tween one side of the river and the other. The
river itself for commercial purposes is entirely use-
less. It is too shallow for any but such steamers as
ply between Mortlake and Richmond, while all
means of access to the stream above the city are
cut off by the steep Falls of the Ottawa, which pour
over the cliffs of limestone just above the timber-
shoots. If Ottawa were a fortified town like Quebec;
if it were not close on the frontier of the United
States; if it were only inhabited by English settlers,
or were now, or ever had in future times the chance
of becoming a great city, there possibly might have
been some reason for the extreme step of changing
the seat of Government from Montreal to this place.
But in all and every of these points of view, either
commercially, strategically, or legislatively, the
choice of Ottawa has been a grand mistake; and if
persevered in it will, at no distant date, give rise to
great troubles in Canada. Throughout the whole
province there is a deep-rooted and fast-increasing
dissatisfaction with the choice. The expression of
this each day grows stronger and more strong. As
well might the Queen by her own act select Vent-
nor as the seat of the Government of England. The
change from the city of Montreal to the village of
Ottawa, be it remembered, was the act of the
Home Government, and forced upon the Canadians
in spite of their remonstrance and entreaty Ever
since that it has borne bitter fruits, which are
ripening now day by day. After this Royal visit,
after the personal experience of the Duke of New-
castle, the Home Government may with a good
grace recant their former error, and for the last
time transfer the Government from Ottawa to the
only real capital of Canada—Montreal. The Cana-
dians, 1 am sure, expect this act of grace, and,
whether well given or ill given, will surely have
it somehow at last. The great natural highway of
Canada, the St. Lawrence, has been departed from,
and an out-of-the-way backwoods town has been
selected for the capital of what must in future be a
great and thriving country. In the present state
of feeling among all classes of the Canadians—
, English, French, or Irish—two years cannot elapse
before the capital will be transferred to Montreal,
either by the Government or the people. The
appearance of Ottawa, as it now is, is very like
the harbour of Sebastopol ; and if one can imagine
the heights of that stronghold clad down to the
wafer's edge with thick pine-trees, and a huge
cascade pouring over a high reef of rocks at the
head of the harbour, then you see Ottawa. Thus
much for this intended city.
On Saturday, the Ist of September, the Prince
proceeded to lay the corner stone of the Parliament
buildings, which, if their plan is carried out accord-
ing to the present design, will prove the finest
Gothic building in all America. They err, per-
haps, like all thc earlier Gothic structures, on the
side of heaviness; but, this fault excepted, they
will be grand, regal, and ancient-looking enough to
satify even Mr. Scott himself.
The ceremony of laying a foundation stone is, of
course, like opening a bridge (which has been tra-
versed for months), or inaugurating waterworks, or
any other meagre and unsatisfactory State ceremo-
nial which Royalty is occasionally compelled to en-
dure in deference to public feeling. At that of
Saturday the splendid silver trowel was, of course,an
object of interest second only to the Prince himself,
and people who couldn't see the trowel concentrated
their attention on the stone—a great block of white
marble, with an inscription to the effect that " This
stone of the buildings intended to receive the Par-
liament of Canada was laid," &c. The delightful
ambiguity about the word "intended" was a source
of unalloyed satisfaction to nearly all present. The
scaffolding over the stone was in the form of a hand-
some Gothic arch. The seats were ranged in
tiers around it. The legislative members had the
front places, whereat they grumbled exceed-
ingly, and decried the arrangements in every tense
and mood. There was a dais near the stone, with
three seats and a full-length portrait of the Queen in
the centre of the enclosure, and which, in order that
the spectators might judge of the artist's work from
a disinterested point of view, was placed on its head.
When these facts are noted down, and it is further
stated that the day was hot and clear, all that re-
quires to be said about the preparations for laying
the foundation stone of the " intended" Parliament
buildings has been told. One feature, however, con-
nected with the fete, which, thongh not prepared,
was especially prominent, deserves some mention,
and that is the mud. Mud is the only thing which
has, as yet, been completed and brought to perfec-
tion in the city of Ottawa, and there, indeed, it lies
about the streets in quagmires which saurians might
revel in.
The Prince came out on the dais at 11 o'clock, and
in five minutes after the stone was declared by him
to be " well and truly laid," and the ceremony was
over. Before this the portrait of her Majesty had
been restored to the position originally intended by
the painter, and was placed at the back of the
Prince's chair. This, as the ceremony concluded,
was slipped aside; disclosing a private way out, and
while those in the outskirts of the crowd were won-
dering when the stone was to be laid the Prince was
quietly walking back to his hotel. So everybody
gradually made a move towards the dais, and half
Ottawa waited and took turns to sit down in the
chair of State, in which the Prince had never sat
at all.

After the Parliament buildings came a levee,
which was soon over, when the Prince drove round
the town. The few conveyances that were in
Ottawa then let at once at 50 dols. an hour, and at
this rather heavy figure were taken up eagerly,
so that before the Prince had gone 100 yards he
was followed by a long train of vehicles of every
kind, all splashing through the mud in wild con-
fusion. The little town was soon traversed almost
from end to end, and almost every street elicited
new expressions of approbation at the singular
architectural beauty and grace of its triumphal
arches. Whatever else it may want, Ottawa is not
deficient in genuine good taste, for both in form and
decoration, though not in number, its arches are far
finer than those of any town the Prince has yet vi-
sited. They were indeed so good, and so purely
Gothic, as to excite a very general suspicion that
some one or other connected with the " intended"
Parliamentary buildings had designed them. After
this drive there was a dejeuner in rather a more
costly style than usual, from which his Royal High-
ness retired early, for lie had yet to visit the Falls of
the Ottawa, the Lumber-arch, and the timber--
shoots. This he did at 5 o'clock in the afternoon,-
all Ottawa and as many inhabitants as could be
spared from the surrounding wilderness being on
the road to cheer him, and follow him in all he did
and to all he saw.
He drove from the Victoria Hotel to the suspen-
sion bridge over the Falls of the Ottawa, where the
whole mass of the river comes tumbling down a
series of huge cliffs of a laminated kind of lime-
stone, much like the Natural Steps at Montmorenci,
with a cataract coming over them. These falls are
wonderfully picturesque, more so for then decayed
masses of rock than for their rush of water. They
somehow look as if they were out of repair and fall-

ing to decay—as if a river had been turned over the
ruins of some gigantic building, and left to fret and
fume itself away amid its shattered walls, great,
porticoes, and ruined columns. Such a ruined aspect 1
as nature here puti on is seen at no other cataract in
America ; and beneath the mass of dark brown water
the eye can trace out such a regularity of disarray,
such chambers, such nooks, such passages and pillars
as scarcely seem the freak of nature, but more re-
semble the stately vestiges of the old rock-hewn
temples of Egypt. At one corner of the falls, re-
moved from the turbulent mass of foam and mist
in the centre, is a stream called the " Lost River,"
where a part of the Ottawa drops over the columns
of rocks and disappears in a deep unfathomable
hole at the base. The Prince and his suite stayed
for a lorg time inspecting these ruins of cataracts,
and then returned under the Lumber-arch.
This arch, one of the finest and most characteristic
of the country the Prince has ever seen or is likely
to see here again, was erected by the lumber-men.
It was a broad and lofty structure, in form like the
Marble-arch of Hyde-park, but built entirely of
planks of raw deal laid transversely one over the
other, without a nail or fastening of any kind from
first to last. Light as it seemed, there were nearly
200,000 lineal feet of plank used in its construction.
The Prince, as, indeed, every one who saw it, was
astonished, for its effect, though not easy to describe
was really wonderful to look at. It was the arch
of all the arches the Prince has had erected to his
honour; and it is almost a pity that a monument so
strong, so beautiful, and so characteristic of the
country, should ever be removed.
From this arch the Prince went down the banks
of the stream to the head of one of the longest tim-
ber shoots, where a raft had been prepared for him
to run down these artificial but most rapid of all
rapids in this part of America. A few words will
suffice to explain what a timber shoot is. When
the great mass of lumber is brought down to the
Falls of the Ottawa, a special contrivance is of
course necessary to get it past them, as the result
of letting it over the falls themselves woull be
simply to destroy the logi. For this purpose,
then, a certain portion of the river is dammed off,
and turned into a broad wide channel of timber,
which is taken at a sharp incline along the banks
of the river, and down which, of course, the waters
of the Ottawa rush at terrific speed. The head of
this shoot is placed some 300 yards above the falls,
and terminates, after a run of about three-quarters
of a mile, in the still waters of the river below their
base. As, however, a raft on such a steep incline,
and hurried along by such a mass of water, would
attain a speed which would destroy itself and all
upon it, the fall of the shoot is broken at intervals
by straight runs, along which it glides at compara-
tively reduced speed, till it again drops over, and
commences another headlong rush. Some of these
runs also terminate with a perpendicular drop of
some four or five feet, over which the raft goes
smash, and wallows in the boiling water beneath,
till the current again gets the mastery, and forces
it on faster and more furiously than before. More
than 20,000,000 cubic feet of timber come down
the shoots of the Ottawa in this manner each year.
The rafts are generally made of from 15 to 20
trees, with two transverse ones to secure them at
each end, and a kind of raised bridge for the
lumberers to stand on, who without such aid would
be washed off it, as the mass drops from shoot to
shoot down these Rapids and disappears some few
feet under water with each plunge. The same
risk attends these shoots as attends the rafts on
natural Rapids, and if not carefully secured the
mass of timber may break up, when all on it would
have but a poor chance of escape; or else the raft
may get "stubbed"—that is twist and jam itself
so as to come to a dead stop, when the men are
hurled headlong off it, as if thrown from an express
train. With well-made rafts and careful raftsmen,
however, these accidents are unknown, and for all
practical purposes running a timber-shoot on a raft
is safe enough, or with only just enough of danger
to give zest to the feat.
Of course every possible precaution was taken to
insure strength and careful guides for the raft on
which the Prince was to rush down the shoot.
Only the immediate members of the suite and a few
gentlemen, in all about 20, were allowed to be on it.
When these were fairly settled down, the Prince sit-
ting on a raised plank, between the Duke of New-
castle and the Governor-General, the rope which
held the mass of timber against the current was
cut, and instantly the raft began to move. At first
it went with a slow, stately motion, but gradually
as it entered the narrower parts of the shoot, where
the incline began, the speed quickened, and every
one held fast as the first jump and steep descent
drew nearer. Before you could well say it was com-
ing the mass slid over the edge with an uneasy
kind of gliding leap, and went rushing down faster
and faster till there was another jump, and then a
straight run which plunged the beams under water,
wetting some of the suite to the knees. Quicker
and quicker the banks flew by, all thronged with
people cheering and waving handkerchiefs, and
faster and faster the raft plunged down groaning
and creaking, now half hidden by the boiling water,
into which it dashed at the end of each shoot, glid-
ing rapidly along the logs of the strait runs with
jerks and thumps as if it was being forced over rocks
till it came to another jump and another steep
incline, taking each one faster than the others
in one grand headlong sort:of flying whirl which
gave a notion of irresistible force, and made
each passenger, as it were, a component part of raft
and Rapids both. To go down the Rapids of the
St. Lawrence is nothing, but to go down the Rapids
of a timber shoot, to keep pace with the flying
waters, and see them hissing and rushing 'up over
the raft beneath your feet, is the most exhilarating
adventure in all the repertoire of American travel.
It is something which partakes of flying and swim-
ming ; the immense speed of the whole mass—the
rush of the water, the succession of shoots stretching
out before you like sloping steps of stairs, the de-
light of flying over these with the easy skim of a
bird—the rough long straights in which the raft
seems to dive and founder, letting the water up
beneath and over it behind till it is again urged
forward, and then comes another incline of water
which you whirl madly down as if you were in a
swing. To steady yourself on the narrow plank
amidships, and hold on with might and main as
the timber snaps and works like a bundle of reeds,
getting a momentary rest with each quick incline,
and again thumping over the straights with sharp,
uneasy struggles, is to experience such a heap of
new sensations as neither balloons nor diving bells
afford, such a whirl as only three-quarters of a mile
down the great timber shoots of the Ottawa can
ever give. All on the raft with the Prince, to whom
(excepting the Governor-General) the sensation was
as novel as it seemed beautiful and terrible, were
delighted, and the only regret which his Royal
Highness expressed when the raft at last did con-
descend to stop in the centre of the river, below
the Falls, was that the shoot was not at least a mile
longer.

From off this raft his Royal Highness went in a
canoe to witness canoe races, which were exciting
and closely contested, and in which everybody, if
they did not win, at least said and thought they
did, which is much the same. Six Indians of the
Allejonquins tribe, however, distanced the best
crews and canoes of the lumbermen beyond all
chance of doubt.

These sports were still at the highest when his
Royal Highness left, as the sun set over the pic-
turesque headland of Ottawa in such a flood of
purple grandeur as seemed to impress into admi-
ration of the scene even the rough natures of the
lumbermen. On that night there was a banquet at
the Victoria-house, and the village of Ottawa was
illuminated with candles. There was also an at-
tempt at a torchlight procession, the only very bad
one the Prince has met with.

Yesterday being Sunday of course nothing was
done, and to-day (that is to say, in an hour hence)
the Prince leaves for the furthermost wilds of the
Ottawa river, and takes a route to Kingston about
as direct as a man would take who should start
from London-bridge to reach Islington via Peckham
and Battersea. This route, however, will best show
the features of the country, and as the Hon. John
Rose is in charge of all relating to his tour, it may
be considered dA certain that there will be much
worth seeing, and that his Royal Highness will be
as well provided for at Brockville as Mr. Rose has
provided for him throughout all Canada.

[AtorzfrrisxmENT.] Pills and medicine invariably ag-
gravate and perpetuate diseases; their annoyance, dis-
appointment, and expense may be avoided by persons
in indifferent health sending only their address to E.
77, Regent-street, W., London, and they
will gratis and free by post the "INVALIDS' Owx
GS.OII3DaEr receive,r'y'Esq.,
or
Natural Restorer, without medicine or ex-
pense, of perfect digestion, strong nerves, sound lungs, and
refreshing sleep, to the most enfeebled, insuring the removal
of indigestion (dyspepsia), constipation, liver complaints,
nausea, epilepsy, paralysis, debility, nervousness, palpitation,
cough, asthma, consumption, dropsy, flatulency, diarrhoea,
dysentery, biliousness, fevers, sore throats, catarrhs, colds
noises in the ears, rheumatism, gout, impurities, eruptions,
hysteria, neuralgia, irritability, sleeplessness, acidity, palps,
tation, heartburn, headache, despondency, cramps, spasmi-
sinking, fits. ronchitis.—"Unquestionably the safest Guide,
to health."

[ADVERTISEMENT.]-1Iolloway's:Pills and Ointment.—
Art surpasses Science.—ln the cure of all diseases expe-
rience is the grand hand-maiden of nature; to watch the
proper moment and to give the appropriate medicine is the
chief art in subduing all ailments. As Holloway's medi-
cines remove all obstructions to perfect action, as the
watchmaker clears the works of an ill-going timepiece,
they must necessarily restore regularity and order. Such
being their benign action they can never be used at the
wrong time, nor improperly, if attention be
to the
instructions which accompany every package of Pills and
Ointment. The weakest,as
well as the strongest, may
advantageously use them, their action being so cooling'
)1041itig) Purifying, and restorative,