The Sun.
London, England, 1860-10-03 00:00:00

A VISIT 2'o THE TAI-P.INGS:

We have so little authenticated information con.
cerning the Chinese rebels, that the following nar-
rative by the Rev. Joseph Edkins will be read with
interest. Mr. Edkins is by far the most learned and
intelligent of our missionaries in China, but even he
cannot quite govern his desire to see a nascent
Christianity in the blasphemous pretensions put
forward by these rebels:—
"me approach of the Chinese insurgents to the neigh-
bourhood of the foreign settlement at Shanghai has revived
the interest formerly felt in their movements. For some

years they have beon declining., rather than advancing, in
power, but 1860 has proved to be the epoch of a remarkable
improvement in their prospects. Reduced to great straits
in Nankin early in this year, they made a strong attack on
the Imperialist forces at Tanyaug, a place which lies on

the Shanghai side of the ancient capital, and has been oc-
cupied with a large army by the Imperialist generals for a
considerable time past. Fortunately for the rebels, the
two commanders, Chans Kwoh Liang and Ho. chun, were
at variance. A victory was won. Ho-chun died, and his
colleague committed suicide in the approved Chinese
method, by swallowing gold. Such was the end of the matt
who, by turns common pirate, rebel, and Imperialist com-
mander, has for several years been the main stay of the
reigning dynasty in this part of the empire.
" After Chang-kwoh-'Tang's death his troops, to the
number of 20,000 or 30,000, deserted to the rebel cause, and
added their strength to the devastating torrent that now
swept down tho banks of the Grand Canal to overwhelm
the unhappy inhabitants of Chang-chow, Souchow, and
other cities.

" When the intelligence reached Shanghai that the semi-
Christian rebels were become our neighbours there great
curiosity was felt to learn from pers: nal intercourse what
are their present opinions and feelings hr regard to foreigners
and Christianity. It was also thought to be highly de-
sirable that special information should be given them
touching those points of doctrine and practice where they
differ from ourselves.
" A party of five, consisting principally of English mis-
sionaries, proceeded, at the end of June, to Soochow, and
obtained the information embodied in this brief narrative.
" At the outset much difficulty occurred from the fears of
the boatmen and their refractory conduct. At last, after
the promise of double pay, they consented to start, but they
never ceased throughout the journey to give trouble in a
way to which we have not been accustomed before. To
visit the rebels requires in the Chinese considerable nerve,
and we partly excused the troublesome behaviour of the
boatmen by the consideration that if they had been obe-
dient and quiet they would most likely have been too timid
for our purpose.

" We proceeded up the Shanghai river, first to the south
20 miles, and then to the west 20 more, till we passed the
pagodas of Sungkong, and made our way to Luchu, 50 miles
from Shanghai. Here we met several boats owned by Eng-
lish merchants, waiting for an opportunity to pass the rebel

territory into the silk district. The new silk is just ready
for the English market, and the arrival of the rebels at this
time at Kiahing and Nantsin, the two centres of the
Taisaam and Tsatleo silk respectively, is very inopportune.
"At a few miles past this place we noticed the people

looking eagerly at a procession in the distance, which we
found to be a body of rebels, horse and foot, on their way
from Kiahing to Bingbong. Their route lay on the west
bank of the Grand Canal. Leaving the villagers, who
feared to venture nearer, we landed and walked towards

them. The canal, 80 or 100 feet wide, now intervened,and
we had therefore to return to our boats and proceed in them
to the opposite side, where they had halted at a wayside
harbour. The chiefs in the rear of the cavalcade entered
our boats, as we invited them to do, and engaged cheer-
fully in conversation.

" One of these chiefs, Ho. was extremely frank and
obliging. He had left the Imperialist side in April and
joined the insurgents. Ho is a Cantonese, and has often
visited Hongkong and Shanghai. When questioned respect-
ing the religion of the party to which he belongs be excused
himself from entering into particulars by stating that being
a late adherent, and not having devoted his time to any-
thing but military operations, he could not do more than
repeat the elementary formula of the Tai-ping creed. He
also informed us that the head of the revolutionary move-
ment is, beyond doubt, still living. One of the other chiefs,
a native of K wangsi, saw him twice at the beginning of
this year, when he came out in public to worship the
Heavenly Father. He makes these appearances once or
twice a month.

" In answer to a question respecting a relative of Tien-
wang, who went early in 1858 to Nanking to join the re-
bellion, we were told that he is now second in command,
with the title of Kan-wang (Shield King). About five years
ago he spent several months in Shanghai, and wrote out a
commentary on the entire New Testament from the instruc-
tions of the late Dr. Medhurst. It was not then considered
safe to allow him to proceed to Nanking, but he subse-
quently arrived there in 18;8 by the interior route from
Canton. He was baptised by the Rev. Theodore Hamberg,
a German missionary, in 1853, who was supplied by him
with the information embodied in the pamphlet called
The Visions of Hung. sin-Ishuen. The curious and authentic
statements made in this book are our best lights on the early
history of the rebellion. They vindicate satisfactorily its
religious origin, and show that, while the founder has erred
in regarding himself as the subject of immediate Divine
revelations, he is a sincere believer in Christianity. The
advent of his relative after several years of instruction
under the Protestant missionaries may produce a painful
influence upon his mind in leading him back to correct
views of Scripture truth.
"The Tai .ping chiefs loft our boats and remounted their
horses, while we followed them by the Grand. Canal to Bing-
bong or Ping-wang. Great resistance was made at the
taking of this place, which happened eight days before our
visit. It now presents a painful spectacle. Those parts of
the town which it is inconvenient to defend have been burnt
or were still burning, when we were there, while the bodies
of those killed, to the number of 60 or 70, had floated down
the canal, and were met by us on our approach. The posi-
tion of this town is important, because the water-route from
Soochow by the Grand Canal to the great cities Hangcheu
and Hucheu separates here, proceeding southward by Kia
hing to the one, and westward by Nantsin to the other. It
was, therefore, stoutly defended by the Imperialists, and is
now strongly fortified by the Revolutionists. Several thou-
sand long-haired men' were holding it, and they had con-
structed very secure defences. Tho town is not walled, and
a complete circuit of earthworks, therefore, has been formed
on the land side, the ditch and the space in front of it being
made impassable by an infinity of small bamboo stakes in-
serted in the soft soil. The houses fronting the canals have
been pierced with loopholes, and every preparation has been
made for protection against assault. We saw only one or
two cannon, and noticed few muskets in the hands of the
defenders. The greater part of the rebels appear to have no
weapons but swords and pikes.
" We discovered the residence of our friend of the morn-

ing after some search, prosecuted through ruined streets and
crowds of Tai-ping soldiery flaunting in red and yellow
attire. The doors and shop shutters had all been removed

to help in fortification, and the common copper money of
the country was strewn along the pavements. The inhabi-
tants who would have cared for it had been scared away by
the terror of war, and the rebels, who many of them wear
gold and silver bracelets, and precious stones in their caps,
look with contempt on copper. Our friend Ho shared the
residence of Siau -Ban-fa, one of the two chiefs in command
at Bingbong. His former acquaintance with foreigners
and foreign affairs led him to understand us much more
readily than he could otherwise have done, and everything
passed off smoothly both with the higher chief Siau and
himself Siau; an old Tai-ping adherent, possessed consider-
able knowledge of his religious system, at least compared
with those around him. While remarks were mado on the
object of the death of Christ, several of the Kwang-si and
Hunan men, who have been for several years in the move-

ment, pressed round the table, listening with interest when
they learnt that the books of Tien-wang, their instructor

and leader, teach the same things that foreigners believe.
" Our sleep that night was to be amid the incessant beat
ing of the watchmen upon their gongs and bamboo clappers.

The moon shone with unbroken serenity on that scene of
destruction that surrounded us as we lay in our boats be-
tween the entrenched town on one side and the burning
houses on the other. Mounting a high bridge close by the
spectacle was striking. There was light enough from the
moon and the red glare of fire combined to make every
object distinct. A multitude of rebel banners, inscribed
with the name of this and that leader, waved from the
temple roofs and the tops of the principal houses, pointing
out the quarters of the various divisions of the garrison.
Some suspicious noises were heard in the burning suburb,
and a party of the garrison was then seen to pass across the
canal to reconnoitre, in case enemies were meditating mis-
chief under cover of the houses.

"The next sun saw us already on our way to Wukiang
and Souchow. A little girl of six stood weeping among
fallen bricks and rafters. The rebels knew nothing about
her, having seen her for the first time that morning, and
gave us ready permission to bring her away; but the child
was so angry and unwilling when we endeavoured to carry
the proposition into effect that we desisted. A foraging
party went out of the town at the same time ; 40 men com-
posed it, having with them a boat to pass creeks, a good
supply of hand-pikes, and one or two matchlocks. Their
errand was to the houses of the villagers to bring home
vegetables, they said, and also fowls, goats, and pigs,
wrested by furce from their owners without payment, but
this they did not say.
"Leaving our boats,we walked along the broad and grassy
towing-path, which is now much decayed. It consists of a
continuous embankment, with a wall of large granite stones
facing the water. It used to bear annually the heavy tramp
of the grain junk sailors, as they towed the Imperial grain
northwards to Pekin. Now it looks comparatively deserted
and retired, and has ceased to be the pride of the Govern-
ment and people. At a mile or two's distance from Bing •
bong we noticed the villagers at work in the fields, and glad
we were to know that the civil war does not prevent agri-
cultural labours beyond a short remove from thg rebel sta-
tions.
o At PAla-chill we entered a temple, Au its idols, to or

more in number, had been mutilated or destroyed except
one—the representation of the ' laughing Buddha,' made of
hard wood. The natives on the opposite side of the canal
appeared at their doors when they saw us, and informed us
that they had rot been disturbed. Nothing there but the
temple 11.1c1 been interfered with. We stopped to read a
proeh,mation on the wall, intended to calm the minds of the
people. It urged them to forsake wicked superstitions, and
return to the true religion. Soochow had now, it said,
been recovered, and all tho towns of the province must
render allegiance to the new dynasty. Ttibuto must be
brought, and if any opposition to the newly-established
order were encsuntered sure and speedy vengeance would
be taken.

" Here and beyond, as we progressed on our journey, the
fields were the scene of busy activity. It was the time for
planting out the young rice in rows in the irrigated fields.
The wheat had been gathered, and the ground was being
prepared by a layer of water artificially introduced for the
autumn crop of rice, and the ground has also to be previ-
ously ploughed and harrowed. So busy were the labourers
at these employments that many of themseerned to take no
note of boats passing with the unusual appendage of an
English flag at their stern.
" The canal here lips in a direction parallel with the
eastern shore of the Tai-hu Lake, the islands in which are
visible. A conspicuous pagoda marks the walled city,
Wukiang, at which place, after a few hours' tracking, the
boats arrived. The city gate is entered from a long bridge
of lb arches, constructed across a lake. After a long walk

we reached the residence of the officer in command, in the
heart of the city. We noticed many of the rebels to be new
adherents, pressed into the service reluctantly, or deserted
soldiers. There was a brilliant display of yellow banners
outside the quarters of the chief. In fact, he was on the
point of making some tour of inspection, and a large body
of men were ready to fall into procession as soon as he
should appear. Such an abundance of red and yellow as
we there saw gave us the impression that this chief was
fond of pomp, and tender of his dignity.
" We found him to be very cold and dignified, but polite.
Volunteering no information, he answered our ques-
tions, and assured us that we might see the Chung Wang
at Soochow without kneeling. He was an original adherent
of the Tai-ping movement, and said that the Chinese
and foreigners should be in harmony, seeing that they
worship the same Heavenly Father and Heavenly Brother
(Jesus) and professed the same religion. We left him
after a short interview, declining with thanks the provi-
sions which he offered to send us.

" Towards evening we passed the 53-arch bridge through
which lies the route to the Tai-hu lake, and soon arrived at
the extensive but deserted fortifications vainly provided a
few months ago for the defence of Soochow against the
rebels. Reaching the south-east corner of the city wall we
steered north for the gate known as the rung-men. The
moat here was half choked up with the ruins of fallen houses
and the unburied dead. It was a short but inexpressibly
painful interval of time which passed before we came to the
gate. These suburbs, once so flourishing and populous, were
smoking in vast heaps on each side of us. A crowd of their
once gay and active inhabitants were lying in the embrace
of death on the waters round us. How could we but sym-
pathise deeply with the countless victims, most of them
suicides seized with despair, of this terrible civil war f Se-
veral weeks before the insurgents arrived the mandarins of
Soochow had ordered the destruction of all houses between
the moat and the wall, and also the suburbs beyond. This
measure was held to be necessary for the effectual de-
fence of the city. It invoked the burning down of num-
berless houses and streets where extensive trade
was conducted, and preyed in the end to be of no
benefit to any but the rebel chiefs who conquered the city.
What was left undone the new occupants soon completed,

and no houses now remain without the city, except those

used as quarters for small parties of rebels placed on guard.
" After waiting some minutes we were admitted within
the gate. The walls are at this point perhaps 40 feet high.
All along the top of the battlements round the whole ex-
tent of the walls wooden frames have been placed, armed

with a multitude of small spikes. Besides this thero are

sharp splints of bamboo thickly planted in the ground be-

;wean the wall and the moat.

These precautions against

surprises are well known in China, where the military art
is well and minutely discussed in books, though in prac-
tice it is found to fail through want of courage and decision.
" The old Kwang-si porter, tall and stalwart, who opened
the gate to us, did not decide that it was right to do so till
after a very careful inspection of the envelope in which our
poseport was contained. We then found our way to the
nearest officer, and were by him furnished with a guide to
the palace of the Chung Wang. A walk of three miles
brought us there, wearied with the way, and saddened by
what we had seen. The busy hum of commerce, was re-
placed in the streets by the noise of gongs, the tramp of
horses, and all the appearance of an armed camp. Rough-
looking men decked out in incongruous finery trod the pave-

ment, iastead of the comfortable citizens formerly met here,
whose rich attire suited wolftheir condition of easy affluence.
Every convenient family house was made of the lodging-

place of some yellow-robed and turbaned chief.

Here

and there on a bridge the head of a deserter, suspended as a
warning, presented a grim spectacle. The original inhabi-
tants, of whom a few remained, looked hungry and
wretched. Little respect is paid to such persons by the

rebels; they are expected to carry burdens, in return fur
which they receive a scanty subsistence. This harshness
becomes insupportable to respectable icon accustomed to
an easy life, and such are constantly on the watch to make
their escape.
"An immense private house had been chosen for the
quarters of the Chung Wang ' Faithful King.' O.i

arriving hero we were politely received ; but our introduc-
tion to the chief was delayed by a visit soon afterwards

from the ' Flourishing King' Ying Wang. When he came
and left we heard the deafening sound of a salute of nine
fited with Chinese petards, accompanied by gongs and
music. He had come to Soochow only two days before, and
was till recently at the head of an army in Ngan-hwei pro-

wince. 'While we waited several chiefs high in position

caul° to converse with. us.

" One inquired if we knew anything respecting the for-
mer friend of Tien Wang at Canton, Rev. I. J. Roberts.
They had been directed on leaving Nankin to ask for his
welfare when they came into communication with the
western brethren.'

"They told us that they perform baptism by rubbing
water on the chest, and the rite is called entrance to the
holy;' also that there are now about 50 publications autho-
rized by the central Government at Nankin, including the
entire New Testament. A new brother is taught to repeat
a few sentences of praise to the Father, Son, and Holy
Spirit, and is then received.

"At about 8 p.m., after waiting perhaps an hour and a
half, we were conducted to the entrance-hall, and stood on
the rig'at for some minutes, at the end of the long train of
officers and servants, 40 or 50 in number, who at ood facing
each other in two rows. In the far interior was the chief
himself whom we had come to see. After a salute of six,
with the accompaniment of music and gong beating, we
were marshalled up the long and gorgeous vista through
which we had been stealing a few glances of curiosity.
While in the waiting-room we had stated our objection to
kneeling, and were permitted to appear with simply a bow
and uncovered. After bowing and standing before the
Chung-wang for a minute we were placed on his right,
opposite his principal Ministers.

"The hall of audience was carpeted with red. Large
lanterns of horn held between the two officers who stood on
each side added to the brilliance of the scene. They all
wore robes and caps of red and yellow silk. The only person
seated was the chief himself, who was habited in a rich
yellow satin robe embroidered with dragons. His hat was
of gold, and let fall on his shoulders four trefoil leaves,

froiU each of which hung a large pearl.
" The ' Faithful King' is a man of small, keen features;
is 37 years old, wears spectacles with large circular lenses,
and appears anxious to maintain a suitable dignity, while he
is evidently goodnaturod and benevolent in disposition.
llc
is the conqueror of Chang-kweh-liang at Tanyrng', and the
subjugator of Changchow, Soochow, and Kiahing. In ad-
dition to his military successes he bears the character of a
good man, opposing the excesses of the troops under his
command, and protecting the people from injury and in-
sult. It was to be expected that this man would behave in a
friendly manner to his English visitors.
"The conversation then commenced by his asking in good
Mandarin dialect, with a Kwangsi accent, whence we came
and for what object? Answer. `Faithful King ; may you
live a thousand years. We come from Shanghai and be_
moors long to the great English nation. We have heard that
your religion is Christian, like our own. We hip like
you, the Heavenly Father. We have therefore come to
make inquiry respecting this.'
It appears, then, that your honourable country also pro-
fesses, like us, to believe in Jesus, the Saviour of the
World.
We aro of the same religion and are brethren.
At present
BienF en
ung's empire is approaching its d
, we have one-
half of the mountains and rivers' for the celestial dynasty.
Having now only recently taken Soochow, we have not
erected a church, otherwise you might enter it with us and
join in worship.'

t,, The:most of mankind worship images of wood and clay.
The disciples of Jesus know that it is right only to worship
God.'

" ' It is this wicked idolatry that we found prevailing here
and in other cities. God kas sent his Son Jesus to save the
world from these their sins, and the younger brother of
Jesus is our chief.'
" `We•desire nothing so much as that idolatry may be
uprooted from among men. We know the Kan-wang. He
resided with us for several months at Shanghai. Afttr •
wards he proceeded to Hong- kong, where ho remained st.l'
under the protection of our missionary friends there, till he
decided to go on to Nankin. He is well acquainted with
our religion.'
" 'We are under great obligations to you,' said the
Chung Wang, for giving protection to the relative of our
chief, and thank you accordingly.
" We also know Lo-hiau-tsiuen, one, as we have heard,
of the earliest acquaintances of the chief of your dynasty
at Nankin. He has lately returned from the United States,
and resides now at Canton.'
" How old is he ?'
" ' About 45.'
" ' He must be muck less'
" We do not in our country ask the question of ou