The Sun.
London, England, 1836-10-04 00:00:00

FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER.

(From the Court Magazine.)

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON FASHIONS AND DRESS.--Some
autumnal mantles have already appeared, and seem likely to
become fashionable. Some of cashmere, lined with white satin ;
others of black taffetas, lined with coloured satin ; but as nei-
ther are wadded, they are sufficiently light to be comfortable,
withent being oppressive. Those of the first- kind hare drab
grounds, with rich cherry-coloured detached patterns. The
round of the mantle and the deep pelerine are edged with
cherry-coloured velvet. The collar, which descends in the
lappet style, is also of velvet, and the pelerine open and looped
on the shoulder displays a large sleeve. Mantles of black
taffetas are lined with rose, blue, or cherry-coloured satin, a
broad band of which trims the fronts ;, it diminishes in breadth
as it reaches the top, where it is rounded off in the shawl style.
Wide sleeves looped at the bend of the arm ; a double pelerine
of the fichu form, which, as well as the mantle is trimmed with
broad black lace. We must observe that the skirt is suffi-
ciently short to display a little of that of the robe.
Muslin robes are giving place very fast to silk ones at our
fashionable watering-places, but we cannot say that the latter
as yet afford any novelty in the make. They arc of quiet
colours : we have observed some new shades of brown, gray,
and green.
Summer hats and bonnets have entirely disappeared ; they
are replaced by the autumnal ones we described last month,
and by those of satin, with the crowns trimmed with feathers,
and the interior of the brims decorated in a novel style with
riband. We see also a good many bonnets of fine Italian
straws : those of the hat shape hare quite disappeared. The
brims of these bonnets are larger than those of silk ones ;
they are trimmed as the hats were with velvet and flowers ;
but, generally speaking, the contrast which the hats often af-
forded of very light summer flowers with full coloured velvet
is not seen, corn flowers and others of rich hues being the only
ones adopted.
Some half-dress materials have already appeared both in
mousselines de laine and in a mixture of silk and cashmere
wool. The latter are in arabasques on a white ground, and,
in our opinion, rather showy than elegant. We have noticed
among the former some with a dead-white ground, and a
square formed by a coloured stripe as narrow as a thread ; it
is either red, green, blue, or marshmallows. The centre of

the square is figured. Some others of a white ground and
very small bouquets of wall flowers, appeared to us pretty,
and very appropriate to the season. Some of these dresses,
made with crossed draperies, and sleeves a la Gabrielle, have
the draperies and also the bands and knots of the sleeves of
velvet. is certainly well calculated for materials of this
kind; hue what shall we say to its being adopted for the
lightest muslin robes? We announced some time ago its in-
troduction as trimmings for them : the mode increases every
day in favour, for as yet muslin and organdie are the only ma-
terials adopted in evening dress, and probably will be the only
ones till the winter has fairly set in. We must observe, that
where velvet is employed in the trimming of a dress, it always
makes part of the ornaments of the coiffure. It has also, in a
great degree, replaced neck-chains. The prettiest ornament
of that kind is a very narrow velvet riband, either black,
violet, or pouceau, which, encircling the throat, forms a knot
of four coques in front, in the centre of which is placed an
ornamental agreffe, a pin, or any other fancy bijou. If the
fair wearer wishes to add a cross or a Jeannette, she attaches
a second velvet under the knot, and it falls as low as the centre
of the bosom.

Pins are at present a very favourite article of jewellery.
We have lately seen several equally novel in the design and
the form. Mosaics and cameos are most in request ; there is
indeed quite a rage for the former. Coloured jcms come next,
mounted so capriciously, that they may be worn even in the
most simple style of dress, without having an air of pretension.
Thus we see little branches of fruit or dowers, the effect of
which is exceedingly pretty—a bunch of grapes formed of
small rubies, with gold foliage, a tuft of forget-me-nots in
turqoises, and daisies in gold and pearls. Fashionable colours
are cherry red, emerald, and Pomona green, ecru straw, and
several shades of lavender, rose, and blue.

( From the London and Paris Ladies' Magazine of Fashion.)
MORNING WEAR.—The peignoirs of muslin are replaced by
white, or very light coloured merinos, bordered with a wide
coloured velvet, the ceinture to match of velvet, or sometimes
of a thick silk cord, with large tassels ; the cap worn with these
dresses is of spotted tulle de sole, of the bouillon form, orna-
mented with a simple bow of black velvet.
WALKING DRESS.—Robe of white jaconot, and spencer of
violet velvet ; the body plain, and the sleeves of a moderate
width at the top, but tight at the wrist, and buttoned ; ruche
of tulle round the throat. Bonnet of blue satin, very close
at the ears.

CARRIAGE DnEss.—Robe of grin lsvantine ; the corsage is
up to the throat, and tight, with folds laid on from the shoulder
to the centre ; the sleeves are of four bouffants. Bonnet of
paille satin, ornamented with China- asters and tulle ♦eil. Col
broche of tulle, confined by a cameo brooch.
EVENING DRESS-Robe of pink you de soie, with a small
black running pattern all over, the corsage is quite plain, finished
by a band of velvet at the top; the sleeves are of a single
bouffant, formed by it deep wristband ; epaulets and cuffs, of
black lace, beaded with velvet. Two flounces of black lace
on the skirt, with headings, and ceinture of black velvet, with
long ends.

gLEETES. —The grand question stiil is upon the new form
of the sleeves. The most simple arc large, confined above
the elbow by a band or riband ; a very deep plain piece flattens
the sleeve on the shoulder.

MANTELRTS.—The Maintenon mantelets will be worn ; they
consist of a kind of long pelerine, having a large collar, fall-
ing square on the shoulders.
CLOAKS.—The form of cloaks is rather undecided. With
the return of flounces, short cloaks will necessarily be. worn ;
they will be of velvet, satin broche, without sleeves, with a
double collar, trimmed with fringe or lace, and without cein-
ture. The long ones, on the contrary, will have sleeves,
without pelerines, and will be confined at the waist. The
short cloaks will be principally confined to carriage wear.
Postscript.—Our latest accounts from Paris announce the
appearance of winter materials, of which worsted and silk as-
sume their priority. The colours named are grin, black, gi-
rofle, and different shades of ecru. Velvet supersedes every-
thing; all the redingotes for autumn have biais of it, and
flounces, even of the lightest materials, are edged with velvet.
The bandeau and plain hair are to be abandoned this winter,
and short frised curls resumed.
(From the iVorld of Fashion.)
MORNING CAPS.--The prettiest, in our opinion, are those
of tulle bouillonne, with long loose lappets of the same mate-
rial ; they suit admirably with a Jeannette suspended at the
throat by a narrow black velvet. ,There is something of rustic
coquetry in this costume, particularly if the cap is trimmed on
each side with a knot of rose-coloured velvet, or satin riband.
HALF-DRESS CAPS.—The most elegant are of denteille de
soie, fitting close to the head, except on the crown, where
they rise rather high ; the front consists of a double row of
that light and elegant lace, arranged in the crescent form on
one side, put low on the other, and almost meeting under the
chin. A light sprig of flowers adorns the front, and velvet
bands arranged with much taste decorate the caul.
a HATS AND BoNNETs.—Satin begins to be in request for
both. Hats are more becomingly made : they remain of the
same size, but the curtain at the back is replaced by a portion
of the brim turned up, which shows the neck to more advan-
tage ; a roll of riband placed under the brim mingles with the
curls of the hair; the crown is adorned with feathers.

(From the Lady's Magazine and Museum.)
TOILETTE D'AUTOMNE.—Dress of sole chinee (clouded silk ) ;
the corsage is made to fasten at the back, with a little fulness
at the lower part, the front is drape, not in the style of the
Sevigne corsage, but with four deep plaits or folds coming from
the shoulder to the centre of the waist in front, where they
meet ; these folds are made in the corsage, and not put on,
and are lined with stiff muslin to prevent their sitting too flat.
Sleeves tight to the arm all the way down, with a seam on the
outside like that of a man's coat. In order to carry off the ex-
cessive plainness of the sleeve, three flounces are put on at
top ; they are rather deeper on the outside of the arm than on
the inside, and are cut the cross way of the material ; they are
edged with a narrow lisere or piping ; the sleeves are finished
at the twig with a piping, and have neither wristband nor
cuff. The bottom of the dress is ornamented with t,vo flounces
cut on the cross way, and with a lisere at the edge. Hat of
poux de soie, ornamented with satin riband and black lace.
The front of the hat is very large, but does not sit very close
to the face; it is evasee at top, and forms a round; the hat
comes down low at the sides of the face, where it is rounded
off. The crown is quite en capotte, the silk being in a single
piece and brought into form by folds ; the bows, which arc very
full, and intermixed with black lace, are placed quite at the
left side ; they are finished with three long ends of riband.
Underneath the front of the hat is a puffing of riband, finished
at the temples by small bows, and a narrow fall of black lace
goes immediately across the brow, a bow of ribands with long
ends is placed over the bavolet or curtain at back ; the riband
that ties the hat under the chin is different, from that in the
bows, it is called the ruban dentelle, and has a lace pattern
on it. Hair in smooth bands ; cambric collar trimmed with
work ; white gloves ; black shoes of drap de soic.
DINS,ER DRESS.—Dress of black poux de soie; the cor-
sage made low en cceeur ; it sits perfectly tight to the bust,
and is without drapery. The skirt of the dress is ornamented
with a tolerably deep flounce, cut out at the edges in dents de
loup (mitres) ; it is put 'on with a heading of black velvet
riband, and the dents are edged with the same. Scarf man-
telet of black satin with a pattern of flowers, in embossed
velvet, clown the sides ; the mantelet is trimmed all round
with a deep black silk fringe. The hair is divided at the sides,
which takes it entirely off the brow ; the front hair brought in
smooth bands to a level with the eyebrow, it is then braided
and turned back behind the car ; the back hair is in three high
toques or bows, one formed of a braid ; they are placed round
the bosom of the dress. The cambric frill of the chemisette
appears ; black velvet riband round the neck with a gold hent
and cross. Hat of white satin, the front large and evasee ; it
is trimmed with ponceau ribands, and has a bouquet placed on
the left side to match. White kid gloves.

We understand that it is in contemplation to bold a
county meeting in Northumberland, on or about the 10th of
October, for the purpose of considering the propriety of adopt-
ing the eastern line of railway betwixt Newcastle and Edin-
burgh. The general opinion now seems to be that applica-
tion must be made in the next session of Parliament for an
Act authorising the Railway betwixt Newcastle and Berwick,
and up from this town to Kelso_Berwick Advertiser.

muRDER.—Con the 22d inst., an inquest was held
before Thomas Thomas, Esq., Coroner, at Ty Newidd, in the
parish of Cadoxton-junta-Neath, in this county, on the body
of a new-born female child. After an investigation which
lasted the whole day, the jury returned a verdict of Wilful
Murder against the mother of the child, named Gwenllian
Curtics, of Pwllfaron, in the same parish, who has dis-
appeared.... Cambrian.