The Sun.
London, England, 1814-06-04 00:00:00

jOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS,

(No. XIII.).
I tope your appetite and digestion are good
In my last I treated you with the whole fashions
and appurtenances of the Cafes and Breakfast-
arrd am now about to take you 'dung
*re Restaarateztr'-i; or Miner Mer-
tViltittri:* If my pen eintibt (plustieC lia tdtiv-
- • •
ing scentlierefifesen'W, I sliaCat least, he able
to gi,e you'a brief:ab.Strac-t and chionicie of the
dishes and wine;,

BEAT.IYILL I ER'S (anciently of the 17td)ado.7:averne
Pal:aisitoyal, but 'timer Of the Rue de
Richelieu), bring one: of the best, if riot the ye' y
beSt liotisi I have yet visited in Paris, shall sery,e
• :to give you an'idea of a leading Tavern hi the
....,./Vienclr•CaPital, at this busy and crowded period;
1111- a room of the sha'pe,of the letter I'4; there are
• _about twenty tables. set out ; to every two or
~tbree of which a particular waiter is allotted. At.
.each end of the
,room,•Within a kind of bar,
Covered With,frnits, &c. are seated females, who.
may -be called die presiding Divinities of :the
place. They are generally well-dressed, fine Ivo-
- men, otgenteel manners, conversable and A.Ltree-
: able. As the waiters take.thevarious dishes to
the
;tables, they give notice at the bar, and the
items' being entered 'on slips of paper properly
numbered, the bills are produced, at'the cud of

the entertainment, with the utrimAt promptitude,
and, aonsideriu, the circumstances, with an ac-

- curacy truly astonishing.
. I have said, '' considering the circumstances ;''
for perhaps you will be surprised to Lear, that
the' number of persons who dine daily at present
in the yoo:41 1 have just mentioned.amounts to no
fewer than froM fiVe to sever hundred 1! Taking
the dinners on an average at .abrout, ten francs a
head, the daily receipts are, therefore, .near three
hundred pounds, or the immense sam of one hun-
dred and ten thousand pounds Within the year
Not aware of the multitudes assembled,
.nor of
the exact nature of the Restaurateur's avocations,
I'was at once struck "with woider, .and amused
(I may use'the stronger, phrase, delighted) with
the scencitere I/resented. . There were,: perhaps,
a hundred Gentlemen seated at table, each pm--
. .
tning- with manly vigour the Object to.the accom7
plish.menttf which he had devoted himself. The
variety of the viands .could only be equalled by
the variety of the consnmers,7the. latter inde-
•
scramble. The meld; the promiscuous inter-min-,
filing of all iranks and nationi; the diversitTof,
langutige; Manners, dresses, looks. of the assem-
bly, are not readily to be imagined ; and the
effect produced is such, that it must be seen to be
. .
adequately nuderstood. Here sat a party of Prus-
sian Officers ; there AUstrians ; at a third table,
Russians 5- at a fourth, British ; at a filth; French ;
at a sixth, a medley of all nation:3, whom chance
had placed in friendly neighbourhood together :
an occasional Lady or two, in the midst of this
masculine congregation, imparted .a new feature,
and gave a livelier, interest to the busy meeting.
•
Nor were the
,grades of the company less mime-
.. • •
• rents than the countries which gave them birth.
'The Erllslr Nobleman was; perhaps;elhowed by
,the. nter: Shopkeeper; the Allied ColOnel was
probablyyvis7a-yis with a French. National Guard;
and the Traveller,,humble as myself, sat down,
Without • ceremony or form, to the same board
with. the renowned Marshal BLUCHER, and with
4,ther Coinmanders and, distinguished Heroes be-
longing tc• the armies of the Combined Powers.
-This lucky opportunity has been frequently af-
'forded me, 'said enabled me to make observations
On men and things, with which I shall trespass
upon yor-kr patience hereafter; but at present. I
shall adhet to my dinner-party.
The general confusion of a crowded eating-
room was apperently augmented by the very great
dissimilarity in t, Inc, gesture, and speech, which
prevailed in ei•erN ' corner of the room. The
Frenchman, all gest. ;dilation and 'grimace, snuf,
Led out his sentences, ,gehrugged, grinned, and de-
voured his portions in • rapid succession—The
heavier German seemed al 'most twisting his jaws
out of shape, at one tittle in discussing a dish,
and' at another in discussL-Ig a subject. The
strong aspirations and tremem lous concatenations
of syllables••in his language farmed a curious
contrast with the slip-shod, na: i4l sounds of the
former. The tone and character •of the Cossack's
language well agrees with the w ild, end rough,
and warlike habits and appearanc e of the man.
The Russian style and mode of spc eeh is also ex-
tremely characteristic : harsh, pace' it, and mixed,
of barbaric and rich, rime and . Rowing tones.
Between whiles the soft and ntclli a:nous intona-
tions of Italy were heard Mid the roar around—
wide-mouthed Dutch clashed v.ith the simperings
of foreigners affecting tosite;ll; fin e Freud'; and
t`te.rugged. or sibilant notes of I Loglish jrrrtgled
with accents of nualberless and dialects,

tW iiolsy ana htltnertius than whitorn
ed the workmen it Babel.

Various as their tongues, were the habit's', end
dt'ess, :tund physic gnomies. p.ro iind,. the brilliant
uniforms of troops, of everydescriptiod and coun-
try, from the glittering cuirassier to the furry
hussar—from, the starred, and crossed, and Me-
dalled general, in the plainly-clothed civilian,
were only equalled by the difference of counte-
nance which belonged to the owners of these-ac,‘
coutretnents The 'bronzed features of the old
soldier were contrasted with the languid looks of.
innlors, whose effeminacy, after all their 'battles,
would not disgrace Bond-street ; the mitstaChed
dragoon, " bearded like a pard,',' bed'for his foil
the youthful stripling, whose chin could not yet
boast one pile of hair ; the almost Indian fate of
the Don Cossacks she-wed" well by the pale visage.,
of the studioUs maw; the high lineaMents of one
country, and the flat traits of another,the ru-
bicundity-of the German, and the sallowness of the
rotundity of the
.northern people,. and -,
the sharpness:of features belonging to tig:
all together formed' a spectacle as diversified and
interesting, as either the observant or the idle
traveller could desire. •

To meet. this "host of dissimilar men, with a
consequent multitude of dissimilar tastes, even a
French Bill of Fare, with all its proviSimis; was
not 'more than sufficient. All Homer's great he-
roes are great eaters ; and it I were to judge by
this rule, the generality of the persons I have seen
at the Restaurateurs, must be the greatest heroes
in the corps' to which they belong.: 'As they had
done ample justice to the French armies, so did
they do ample justice to the French cookery: The
French themselves seem to be quite as prodigious
in the eating-room .asin..the field ; so that there
was, in both easeS,•.a most glorious competition
and rivalry between them 'and the invaders.

I have the Bill of Fare now betore me, and

make the following abstract of it, to feed your

curiosity :---

Oysters (with a dozeirdt two of which dinner is'very corn.
monly commenced) of sevCial kind's, and (min 1 franc to 1/ fr,

per dozen.

Soups, 15 sorts, from 1 f►anc -10 sous to 12 sous the basin.
Hors-d'ceuvres, such as artichokes dressed, sausages, eggs,

&c. &c. &c. alma. 20 or 30 varioai artieres.
Beef, boiled; .roasted, (Bifteek, i.e. Beefsteak) and dressed
in 10 ,different ways, and from 10 sous to 2 fr. 10 sous per
.portion,--a decent plateful.
_Pastry, including fish,.game and meat pies, &c. 15 entrees,
at frontier sous to 2 fr. 10 Sons.
Fowls, Pigeons, Turkeys, Partridges,-Ducks, &e. dressed.
in.44_ways, and at from 1 fr. 10 sous to 4 francs. Ex. gr.
a quarter of a pullet,: 1 fr. )0 sous; a-pigebn, '2
fr. 10 sousi.
the quarter of s capon, with rice, 3 fr.; a partridge, G fr.
Veal (which is the best butcher's meat in Paris) dressed in
25 modes, and at prices' which may be guessed from the fol-

lowing- examples : •
Cutleq with bread-crumbs and sauce. I. fr. 5 sous.

Fricaudeau (a fair dish)
Brifist of Veal with Chiccory 2 10
Mutton, 19.varietics ; :two chops- 18 sous; with sauces 1 fr.

and, so on in proportion.
Fish (which by the by it is not easy to. get a French cool; or
waiter to give you first at dinner, it being here the invariable
custom to cat it near the conclusion), in, 31. modes, and from
a franc and a half to 2 francs. The principal stsrts at present
brOlight to table consist of tnackarelr rahnon, rny, ttirbot.;
eels, trout, soles; &c.

Entretnets (vegetables as separate dishes, and cooked up in
'every way), about 4 hundred varictid, the loAvest priced
portion I fr. the highest 3 fr.
Desert, consisting of all kinds of preserves, fruits in season,
cheese, &c. &c.

As an example of the variety and price of the
wines, I copy the whole of the Bill, which holds
forth temptations to drink :

RED WINES.

Vin de Bourgogne, (ord.) Ifr.l3s,
Vin de Beaune....
Yin de Ponunard
Vin de Vollcnay.

• 2

3 10

Vin de Nuits
Vin de Chamberlin
Via de la Itotuane-Conti g
Vin de Latache.
Vin deV6ne.;..
Vin du Clos Saint Ge0rge5........
Viii de Bordeaux Lafite a
Via de Clarette..... g.-
Vin 4e Cliateau-Latour•
Via de CliAteau-Marget,
Vid de Saint•Ztuilion
Via de Bordeaux S4gur
Via de Porto.

4 10

a

S -

1 ...

WHITE WINES.

Vin de Chablis- - 7 --.77. . ... ' '2fr. 53.
Vin de Mursaut
~,4 -7.,
•
Vin de Grace V me.•
Vitt dc Soterne... . • 5.
Vin de Mont-Rachet - • 8
Vin de Ch. mous., (Ist qual.) 6
Vin de Ai - - , 5 —....
Vin de Champ. nun mous...:-...• 3
Tisane de Champagne 4 10
. ,
Vitt de Champagne rose ' .5 10
Vitt de Sillery, (Ist qual.) 8 •
Vin du Rhin 8
Pierre Francaise 0 10
PorterAnglitis 2
Les Vins apps de Glace 10s. de plus fr
Best Lafitte of 1802 8 ---
Clot Rougeot, 1788 . 10
Excellent Ilerntitt,e Red mut White 8
/

There are also liqueurs of all sorts, and among
the rest rum, which is 12 sons the little glass.
I hope I have given you enough of eating and
drinking':

VIATOIt.

N. B. The franc is nominally 101; but, owing to the ex-
cLiancej it is more thou Is. to au Eoglistimaa.

:.R

Anal Franc, 1 7)tib Prlv.-1:11)tIta., 3 Guth!lf

burgh, 1. Dublin, 2 NVaierforti.

U.txci's at tht.!Etchetitier)

and, :icintli .tie:i .liou.M.:l';.

wATFAt AT LOMB)` Hamar. TO-Mokttow.
Morniuz, 4i minutes after J. I Evening, 6 minutes after ' 4

THE SUN.

soLEnt QUIS DICEBE FALstiM MIDEAT ?

LONDON,
SATURDAY, JUNE 4, IRI4.

.We have French Papers to the 2d. They are of
little interest. The meeting of the Legislative
-Body, as stated in the Gazette de France, has been
postponed to. this day• (4th Stine). The Monitenr
promises the Treaty in its publication of the 2d ;
so that we shall be enabled to lay it before our
Readers on Monday,: They are,. Bower i•, already
most accuratelyarquainted, not, only with the sub•
-
_stance, but with the details.

Premising, that this Treaty simply.. that. be—
tween Great Britain and FlatICC, awl (,)uglit to- he

considered in no otbcr view as affecting drrauf.::e-
ments • between us and other Countries', :We shall

merely add the following—

•Avignon, Chambery, and a small portion of
territory on the side.of thc Netherlands, are to'he
.iiddcd to Franee as she stood in 1769. - 'Of all our
'colonial conquests from France, we retain only
C. Lucie, Tobago;Mauritius, and-its depeuden-
'cies. In future treaties with Holland, &c. Malta,
which voluntarily placed itself under the protec-
.
don of the British Crown ; Trinidad, Which,:re
conquered from- tT-;pin; and Ceylon aliii he Cape
of Good Hope, tvhich wc:toolt fl'oin.the•Dittch;
will be definitively annexed to the British do-