The Sun.
London, England, 1853-10-21 00:00:00

LONDON, FRIDAY EVENING, OCTOBER 21, 1853.

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THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.
The following is, the first portion of Captain
McClure's despatches. We shall complete the pub-
lication in two successive impre4ons :
Her Majesty's Discovery Ship Investigator, off
Point Warren, Polar Sea, Aug. 24,850, in
lat. 69•43 N., long. 131.57. W.
Sin,—l have the honour to report to you, for the in-
formation of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty,
that we arrived off the Mackenzie on the 21st inst. The
letters that I forwarded by her Majesty's ship Herald,
from whom I parted company on the 30th ult., off Cape
Lisburne, will have put you in possession of my pro-
ceedings up to that date.
After parting with the Herald I stood to the N.N.W.
with a fresh breeze from the N.E., with the intention of
making the ice, which was accomplished on the morning
of the 2d of August, in lat. 72.1 N., long. 166.12 W., and
at 11 a.m. stood into the loose ice for the purpose of ex-
amining the pack ; the wind, however, failing before we
got far in, I was induced to run out to avoid being beset,
having ascertained that the pack was very close and
heavy, extending from N.N.E. to W.N.W., and, seeing
no hope .of getting through, worked along its edge in
soundings from 24 to 26 fathoms (mud), the hundreds of
walruses that were lying upon the ice, thickly huddled
together like sheep in a fold, were most astonishing.
We continued working along the ice, occasionallygetting
drifted in, until the sth, when the weather, which had
been previously thick and misty, cleared a little, and, no
ice being in sight, I shaped a course for Wainvrright's
Inlet, with the intention of getting between the pack
and shore ; in running exchanged numbers with her
Majesty's ship Plover, and at 11.$ a.m. observed a
low bench, [apparently shingle, distant about two
miles. The weather again having become thick, we
we went entirely by our soundings, which varied
from 14 to 73 fathoms, in which latter we rounded
Point Barrow at 11.30 p.m., without, however,
observing the land, and steered to the eastward,
direct for Bank's Land, finding that the ice was
sufficiently loose and practicable for sailing through.
These hopes were soon, however, dissipated ; for on the
forenoon of the 6th it suddenly cleared, when I found
that we had been running directly into the pack, which
was very heavy and impenetrable, extending from
S.E. to S.W. (by the north), in lat. 71 35 N., and long.
155 12 W., and the sea through which we had come
looking nearly as white as the ice ahead, except that
lanes of water were observable. We instantly hauled
to the wind, and commenced working out. During the
night the breeze freshed considerably, bringing showers
of rain with thick weather, while being compelled to
carry a press of canvas through very heavy and close sailing
ice rendered the navigation extremely critical. The vessel
occasionally struck with some violence. This continued
till the afternoon of the 7th, when clear water was reported
from the crow's-nest. The wind almost immediately fail-
ing, the boats were all manned, and towing commenced
amid songs and cheers, which continued with unabated
good humour for six hours, when their laborious work
was brought to a successful termination ; being in per-
fectly clear water in Smith's Bay, a light air springing
up, we worked to the eastward. At 2 a.m. of the Bth,
being off Point Drew, sent Mr. Court (second master)
on shore to erect a cairn, and bury a notice of our
having passed. Upon landing they were met by three
natives, who at first were very timid, but, upon ex-
changing signs of friendship, which consisted of raising
the arms three times over the head, they approached
the boat, and after the pleasant salutation of rubbing
noses, became very communicative ; when, by the as-
sistance of our valuable interpreter, Mr. Miertsching—
the selection of this gentleman for this important office
does infinite credit to the discernment of those who
sent him—we found the tribe consisted -of ten tents
(this being the only approach to their numbers he
could obtain), that they had only arrived three days pre-
viously, and that they hold communication with a party
inland, who trade with the Russian Fur Company. The
evening before they had observed us, but could not ima-
gine what large trees they were moving about (our masts),
and all the tribe had assembled on the beach to look at
them, when they agreed that it was something very
extraordinary, and left the throe-men who met the boat
to watch. They also gave the pleasing intelligence that
we should find open water along the coast from about
three to five miles' distance during the summer ; that
the heavy ice very seldom came in or never left the land
further than at present ; that they did not know if there
were any islands further north, as they found it impos-
sible to go in their kyacks, when in pursuit of seals,
further than one day's journey to the main ice, and then
the lanes of water allowed of their proceeding three-
quarters of a day further, which brought them to very
large and high ice, with not space enough in any part
of it to allow their kyacks to enter ; the probable dis-
tance Mr. Miertsching therefore estimates, from his
knowledge of the Esquimaux habits, to be about 40 miles
off shore, and from what I have seen of the pack, I am
inclined to think this is perfectly correct, for a more un-
broken mass I never witnessed ; they also mentioned
seeing the boats with white men going eastward last
year (which I suppose was Lieutenant Pullen), but had
not seen any other white persons or anything like this
vessel before ; they had, therefore, no name of sufficient

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grandeur to give the great " omiac," so they called her
the " fast moving island." Several of them came off to
the vessel, but had little to barter, as all their hunters
were away, but immediately we had been observed they

were sent for, and would soon arrive: Then said they,
"You will be gone, and how disappointed they will be."
They appear a simple, kind people, very poor, very
filthy, and, to us, looked exceedingly wretched. The
time of our return was repeatedly inquired for by
them. They would have a quantity of skins ; they
were anxious for us to wait a little, that they might
send off a supply of reindeer ; but, the boat return-
ing, and the wind fair, I made them a few presents,
and gave them a letter to be forwarded to the Rus-
sian Fur Company, and made sail to the eastward ; the
wind being light as we ran close along-shore, in from
four to six fathoms, we had a great many visitors ;
many of them had been their whole lives between the
Coppermine and Point Barrow. These could give no
information of the missing expedition. lam certain that
had any of them reached these shores we must have
heard of it. The coast is inhabited throughout, and the
natives are, to all appearance, a kind and merry race,
and when we gave them presents, through the medium
of the interpreter, we told them , that we were looking
for our lost brothers, and if they saw any white men in
distress they were to be very kind, to which they as-
sented, by saying they would, and give them plenty of
"deer's flesh." While running along the land, which is
exceedingly low, observed upon Point Pitt two conical
mounds ; thinking they might have some communica-
tion buried beneath, ran in to examine them. While
in stays the vessel took the ground, but was hove
off almost immediately without any damage, the bot-
tom being soft clay. The boat sent to examine the
mounds reported them old Esquimaux cachds, where
they deposit their venison. They, left a bottle con-
taining a notice of our passing. Upon rounding Cape
Halkett on the morning of the 9th found the ice was
set close to the shore, which rendered it a passage of
much anxiety, great labour, and imminent risk, as the
wind wan strong, from E.S.E., with thick fog, and the

ice closing around us fast, so that we had barely space
to work in,itacking frequently in five, and never beyond
ten minutes, standing upon one tack into three-and-a-
half fathoms, and upon the other to four-and-a-half and

six fathoms ; this operation was continued the greater
part of the middle and all the morning watch. At
9 a.m. the weather cleared a little, and open water
was observed in Smith's Bay; our soundings gradually

increased ; the reaches became longer as we rounded the

Cape, and all apprehenaion of being forced on shore was

over. Aug. 10.—In crossing Harrison's Bay found the

influence of the Colville to extend• twelve or fourteen

miles, the surface of the water being of a dirty mud
colour, and scarcely salt. The weather, thick and
foggy, prevented any land being seen. The soundings

were very regular on one tack ; the ice allowed of our
standing off to eight fathoms, and on the other, the
land to three-and-a-half fathoms, black mud. Aug. 11.
—ln the morning the weather cleared a little, and dis-
covered to us Jones's Island. An erect piece of wood
on the shore attracted the attention of the officer of the

watch ; a boat was sent to examine it, when it appeared

to be a piece of drift wood, which had been squeezed up
by the ice. The shore was strewed with it, and one
spar was as large as our mainmast, and 45 feet in length.
We erected a cairn and left a notice. In the forenoon
about 30 natives came off in two baidars, for whom
we obtained some fish and ducks, in exchange for a little
tobacco. They had been about two months on the
coast, and trade with the Russian Fur Company. Their
surprise, of course, was very great, particularly at the
size of our handkerchiefs (the sails) ; the whaleboats
1, attracted their attention, and they asked if trees grew in

r PRICE SD.

ing much open water upon the eastern shore from the Mac-
kenzie towards Cape Bathurst, had no difficulty in work-
ing along it; in soundings from four to eight fathoms which
latter was the extent that the ice permitted us off shore.
Fhwt 000errdetea :co :of
At noon a slight clear discovered to us a cluster of
islands, which a very indifferent observation (lat. 69 34 N.,
long, 135 9 W.) points out as those of Pslly. Aug. 23.
—A. fine clear day, the temperature rising to 40 degrees
at noon. Made the northern extremes of Richard Island
l y 133 clear4B Wo f . ,
ice,tl e
which
from the masthead, and by a good observation established
toouwra.dossittihone,
slhato.re69bsei4ngN.p,
perfectly
agrees with the account given by Sir John Richardson
that the natives observes no ice for two moons, but these
never quit the land any distance, for were they to ex-
tend their excursions ten miles further north than our
position, they would find the pack solid and impenetrable.
This, however; gives ample space for navigation, the
soundings being so exceedingly regular that, during the
most foggy weather, we can stand in shore with the
most perfect confidence to 31 fathoms. A whale was seen
beingcounted.
ii
Idtts He reachingdo.
poen,
Aug.l theays third24.their.... sinceLordships
24.—Observed
e ry
erdo
butu
thisn rounding i
an
ng
d year Point
natives
through
of Bar-
row,r although upon the day we were off that point seven
Point Warren. I hastily close this communication in the
I imagine these people communicate
with the Mackenzie. I have written to • the company's
officer at the abovernentioned post, to request his exer-
tions in sending it forward,.

our country sufficiently large to make them. The head
man possessed a gun with " Barnett, 1840 " upon the
lock ; this he obtained from the Russians. As a fair spe-
cimen ofthe observation of these people and their aptitude
for trade, the following may be taken :—Seeing that we
cut the tobacco into pieces to give in exchange for their fish
(salmon trout), they began to do so the same with the fish
This, however, we would not admit, so they were
obliged to come to our terms. During the afternoon,
while standing along a low flat island, we observed a
flag (a pair of seal-skin inexpressibles) upon a lofty pole,
and a number of natives around it ; we stood for them,
but when the boats were pulling in they appeared to re-
gret their temerity ; for down came the seal-skin and
away they ran ; shortly gaining courage, they returned,
and, as, we approached, ranged themselves in line upon
the beach, and commenced extending their arms above
their heads (typical of friendship), which being an-
swered from the boats, perfectly assured them of our
amicable intentions. Upon landing they evinced a
most manly confidence, rubbing noses, and embracing
most vigorously ; these were very cleanly, so that the
operation was not so unpleasant as it otherwise might
have been. Through the interpreter, Mr. Miertsching,
we learnt that these people had never before seen a Eu-
ropean, nor had they the smallest article of European
manufacture about them (Lieut. Pullen's boats they
observed last year, but they were some distance, on, and
consequently had no communication). They live during
the summer months upon these desolate islands, and in
the winter retire a short distance on the mainland to
their warmer residences. Their women and tents were
upon another island. They were a fine active set of
young men, average height about five feet six inches.
These barter their skins, &c., with a tribe further
west, who, in their turn, do the same with others,
until they reach the Russian post upon the Colville. To
them I entrusted a dispatch for their Lordship; which
they promised most faithfully should be forwarded to the
Colville. I made them a few presents, also a boat's en-
sign, in commemoration of the first man-of-war whose
flag has ever floated in these sterile regions. The magnifi-
cence of the gift they could not for some time comprehend,
and were loath to touch it, but at length the interpreter
made' them understand it was sent them by a great '
Her Majesty s Discovery Ship Investigator, off
chief, and in return they were to be very kind to all Cape Bathurst, Polar Sea ; lat. 70.23 N.,
white men they met, and show it to them ; all this they long. 127.57 W., Aug. 30, 1850.
promised ; the chief then seized it in his arms and ran Set;,—Having closed my dispatch of the 24th with an
across the island to his canoe, followed by the remainder intimation that it would be left near Point Warren with
of his tribe, and no doubt hurried with the joyful tidings the natives observed from the ship, in accordance with
to the women. We find a westerly set which prevents. that intention I proceeded to the shore. Why it was
our making but slight progress, the wind hanging so not so left I shall, in continuation of my narrative, re-
much to the eastward, late. From the contiguity of this tribe to the Mackenzie,
On the morning of the 12th four baiders came along- I was naturally led to imagine that their trade was with
side, ,containing the whole encampment of the tribe we the Hudson's Bay Company. Great, therefore, was my
met last night, and also some that we had seen two days surprise upon approaching the beach to find, instead of
previously, from which it appeared they are migratory ; being greeted with the usual friendly signs, that two
they brought off a supply of fish and a quantity of veni- savages, with gesticulations the most menacing, having
son, but the latter was in such a high state of putrefitc- bended bows with arrows on their strings, and one
tion we could not touch it ;we allowed most of the men with a large knife, which he brandished most signifi-
to come on board, and, although well aware of their cantly, waved us off. Taking no heed of these hostile
knavish propensities, and, consequently, a sharp look-out demonstrations, we pulled in ; they retreated, yelling
was kept upon them, they most adroitly managed to slip furiously ; upon our reaching the full of the beach, we
both handles of our winch and a small ice-anchor into made the same signs of friendship which we had used
theii balder, when the fair sex became the recipients, with the Esquimaux further west, but without any
It was by the greatest accident that the theft was effect until joined by the interpreter, who was in full
discovered by the end of one handle protruding from native costume; this gave them confidence, and, upon
beneath the ample proportions of the lady—who, when his explaining our friendly intentions, they approached,
taxed, immediately returned the articles, and informed but when within about 30 yards, remarking seine mus-
upon her husband. For this immorality the whole boat kets which the boat's crew had, their fury revived ; to
was exempted from receiving any present. Working to pacify them they were laid upon the ground, where they
the eastward observed a few deer upon one of the low became the object of a cautious examination ; still un-
islands, but was prevented sending any boat, as a south- satisfied, they beckoned to take them to the boat ;
east current was setting us in to shoal water very fast, seeing that nothing short of this would allow of any
so that all the boats were required to tow until eight communication, I sent them away, when they ap-
p.m., when a light air ran us to the westward into six preached and permitted us to examine their bows and
fathoms ; the loose ice was in rapid motion, and the arrows.
larger floe pieces, as they passed, appeared to create a Mr. Miertsching informed me that we had been observ-
current which frequently turned the vessel completely ed at 5 o:dpck in the morning.; the whole tribe had imme-
round against helm and sails, the power of a two- diately taken to their baidars, with their most valuable
knot breeze being insufficient to counteract it. On skins, and left the settlement, with the exception of the
the morning of the 13th we were enveloped in a chief and his son, who remained to defend their property
dense fog, among exceedingly heavy and close sailing as it would have been undignified to retire when
ice, through which we attempted to work, but found danger was apprehended. A sick son and his mother,
that endeavouring to avoid one piece we ran upon seeing our friendly disposition, soon joined us. Dr.
another, striking occasionally with great force, which Armstrong examined the poor lad's foot ; it was in a
determined me to make secure to a floe until it cleared. frightful state of mortification. The chief stated that
In this we fortunately succeeded, getting one that was they were at war with the neighbouring tribes, and had
grounded in seven fathoms. It was a heavy piece, but occasional skirmishes with the Indians ; that they had
not so much so as many that were about us. I took its no communication with any person belonging to the
height above the water in seven places, which gave an Great River (Mackenzie), nor had they seen any white
average of 11 feet 11 inches ; a pack chiefly composed of people before ; but when the sea freezes (the latter end
such would be too powerful a foe for any ship long to of next month), the whole tribe proceed west and trade
contend against. At 8 a.m. of the 14th, it having cleared with the Esquimaux whom we had met near Jones's
a little, slipped from the floe, and commenced working Island. The interpreter told him that he had found a
to the eastward among masses of ice. At 10.30 a.m. brother in the chief of one of those tribes, whose name
observed a shoal just in time to avoid it ; it was coin- was Attauwas ; the old chief clapped his hands and said
pletely hidden from view off deck, not being as high as he knew him well ; that he was the great chief he traded
the ice, having a quantity of driftwood upon it, which with, and their reasons for going such a distance, in pre-
is in great abundance along the whole coast. At 3.30 ference to the Mackenzie, was that the white men had
p.m. our course was impeded by another of these given the Indians very bad water, which killed many,
'low islands, which had the ice resting upon its and made others foolish (drunk), and that they would
northern extreme, while the southern point was flanked not have any such water ; from this it evidently appears
by a shoal, which connected it with the island that the company lose annually many valuable skins,
seen in the morning. We were thus perfectly which find their way to the Colville, instead of the
hemmed in. The boats were sent to sound, when Mackenzie.
Mr. Court represented a passage practicable in 3 Observing an old flat brass button suspended from the
fathoms. In running through we unfortunately hit ear of the chief, he said it was taken from a white man
upon a spot with only 2?,,- fathoms, which had escaped who had been killed by one of his tribe, who went away
observation ; we had consequently to lighten the vessel in his kyack when the vessel was seen ; the white man
considerably before she got on; which, however, was belonged to a party which had landed at Point Warren,
accomplished without any damage (the bottom being and there built a house; nobody knew how they came,
sand) by 11 p.m., having been on shore five hours. I as they had no boat, but that they went inland ; the
regret to add that 11 casks of salt meat, which were man killed had strayed from the party, and that he and
Placed in the first whaleboat, were lost by her upsetting, his son buried him upon a bill at a little distance. The
being compelled to place the provisions in the whalers, only answer we could obtain as to the probable time
the cutters having the bower anchors in them. This was when this transaction took place was, "that it might be
a serious loss ; indeed, an irreparable calamity. As soon last year, or when I was a child." To examine the
as we were off it was my wish to return by the way we grave I was very anxious, but was prevented by the
came in, but we found that the ice had set upon the state of the weather, becoming foggy with fresh breeze,
shoal we had first observed, and cut off our retreat, which compelled our immediate return to the ship ;
under which circumstances I was obliged to anchor so, making them a few presents, we parted on
and wait a change of wind. Upon the 16th the very amicable terms. This intelligence appeared
wind came slightly from the westward, which set the of so important a nature, with respect to the white men
ice in motion off the north point of the island. At on the point, that I determined to remain until it became
9 a.m. weighed and towed to the edge of the sufficiently clear to land and examine the house, which
ice, which presented a barrier of about 500 yards in
ernipgehdti tpossibly
hi se odneLtlaiinn detained mee nBdicati hours,on butof ttiol eh
have slept;
width between us and the open water we wished to get x
into. We commenced warping at 2 p.m., and so heavy with a doubt would have been a subject of
perpetual
was the ice that it was not until 8 p.m. that we could regret. At 2 a.m., on the following morning, the 25th,
get through ; it fell calm, so made fast to the ice for the we reached the point, the weather being tolerably clear.
night. Next morning, the 17th, a very thick fog, with The interpreter, Dr. Armstrong, and myself, went on
light north-east wind, and at 4 p.m. commenced kedg- shore in eager expectation of discovering some clue that
ing to the eastward, but at 7 a.m. gave it up ; the wind would lead to a knowledge of the parties ; but in this we
freshened and unable to see for fog. At 2 p.m. it were miserably disappointed ; two huts, indeed, were
cleared ; we slipped from the ice and plied to the north- there to excite hopes, but upon approachiug them we
earth amid heavy streams and large floe pieces, vessel found the woodwork to be perfectly rotten and of a very
striking violently, but unavoidably, against them. old date, without any description of mark to yield time
August 18.—To-day, from the masthead, observed slightest information. The general appearance of the
the first lane of open water in the pack, extending country about thepoint was low and marshy, covered with
east and west several miles, but very narrow. In grass, moss, and flowers, the breeding-place of the eider
the evening a fresh breeze from the so uth-west, and duck, and every species of wild fowl ; we also remarked
almost simultaneously a slight pitching motion was the footmarks of the fox and reindeer; so fertile a land-
observed, which is considered an infallible symptom scape I could not anticipate upon the shores of the Polar
of open water being near. It was so foggy that no- Seas. The interpreter, from his knowledge of the cus-
thing could be seen ; but, notwithstanding, I shaped toms of the Esquimaux, is of opinion that the story of
a course north-north-west for Banks's Land, thinking the white man is traditionary—probably sonic of the
that we had rounded the pack, having coasted it between early discoverers had been engaged in some affray with
400 and 500 miles ; we continued the greatest part of ancestors of the present chief and one of them had been
the night to run without much obstruction, but upon the killed. The present generations inherit the honour, and
following morning, the 19th, our Progress was checked so identify themselves with their forefathers, speakieg
by finding that we had run into a deep bight which of the transaction in the first person as if they themselves
compelled us to work back again to the south-east. were the actors ; which is very likely, from theor vaguewen
Aug. 20.—Before getting clear of this pack, into which definition of the time—" it might be last
we had penetrated a considerable distance, being decoyed I was a child ;" so the history of the whit
year two
gd hat
t have
the missedpeint,
by a few lanes of open water, we were compelled to run continue a mystery. We also heard that
y clear-
-70 miles south, which placed us in lat. 69 50 N, long. boats came from the westward
136 50 W. It is seldom that observations can be ob- Warren and then returned.
which presented
tained, this being only the sixth set since the sth of the boats these could be, unless tlielyacwaneldirneohtat hn dymlsmea seeadaltorn'i afatwLe il what
Pointus htt
ai
el t-1
month, the fog and mist being more continuous than I nant Pullen, who, in thick. weather,
die.
ever remember to have met elsewhere. Aug. 21.—We the Mackenzie, and,
short
m hut net a native.
have succeeded in getting again into clear water. At 1 discovered his error.
inTl Iseays
nighdialtdssnnooowbtt,aseimoleiceiiicaansiyon
IT year.
p.m. made the Pelly Islands, off the mouth of time Mac- Aug. 26.
kenzie ;the coast is, however, so exclusively shoal that I ing,
We saw a few old tents
find it impotsible to reach the main land, which I was very the same lodw
•
so that theTilni Ease
i,nxcwivfciatothiui load,
of bes
we
odfi
es
Ncavenariticleaerl.l,lwl
lulls
a
Light northerly 'winds and thick fog. It
anxious to accomplish, but, at the distance of 40 miles tance inlaalnes
only in
us close to the
vessel, one very large,
from it was obliged to tack in 31 fathoms ; we passed the line Two whales
onl
to send a boat alongside, that she
of its tide most distinctly marked about 10 miles fur- altmog
timer north, the water being the colour of the Thames at Aug.
intentionaigshtmeyxanmine it thorough]er
137. as the water to the east-
Fromie its us standing within two
Woolwich, slightly brackish, and its tempesradteurreeesso.
degrees, the sea, four hours previously, beikng
.12 g
feel con- ward of Cape Browndl)
take her on board in the evening ;
what I have observed of the
milest o f
undert Im et coast, a
es
it
r,
Aug 28. Li caunmetance of thick weather, Lcould
vinced that any attempt to reach Mt
and the
odiltshergou'egnht
•
it would only terminate in failure,
edge Ino venture to do so, •
loss of valuable time, but by
making a good advance ! sing her. fearful of being detained by mis-
and the shore have confidence in working between its t
alit w:nds from N.E., with a mild, cloudy
this season ; it is, therefore:,
in y intention to pursue the
deviate from my origi- da y. At
latter method, and, in so d
ogas mentioned in my Cape Dalhousie S.W. 12 miles, several
of pushing into the ice, masses
eel purpose of drift COi some of the ieces ver heav
dslups, dated the 19th of Jul I P
letter to their lor y. Aug. 22. which However is not any obstruction to our progress,
—Fog during the whole of the night very dense, but, haye ea th '
0 space of open water is ample for sailing, We have

In conclusion, it gives me much pleasure to state that
the whole of the crew are in excellent healtkand spirits.
The season appears exceedingly favourable,~ the tem-
perature being mild and the water perfectly free from ice
along the shore as far as we can see. It was my inten-
tion to touch at Cape Bathurst, with the chance of being
able to forward this despatch, which will now not be
necessary, but shall make the most of the remainder of
the season by getting to the northward in pursuance of
their Lordships' directions.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your most obedient, humble servant,
ROBERT INI`CLURE, Commander.