The Sun.
London, England, 1853-10-11 00:00:00

THE- NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

The following dispatches from Sir E. Belcher,
detailing the proceedings of the Arctic expedition
under his command, have been forwarded to us for
publication : - -

COMMANDER PULLEN'S DISPATCHES.

"Her Majesty's ship North Star,
Beechey Island, Aug. 24.

"1. Sir,—Commander Inglefield having yesterday
informed me that it is his intention to leave as soon as

the dispatches can possibly be got ready, I hasten to
close my proceedings in a condensed form up to this
day, forwarding to their lordships a copy of the same,
togethei with all dispatches received, and every docu-
ment likely to advance the service in which we are en-
gaged.

" 2. I forwarded, on the 12th inst., by Lieut. Bellot,
the French officer of the Phoenix, who bad volunteered
to conduct a party with dispatches on to your ship, 11111
accounts of my proceedings since leaving you, but, un-
happily, and which it is my melancholy 'fliity to inform
you, in the execution of which, by a sudden and unfore-
seen disruption of the ice in Wellington Channel, he has
lost his life ; the four men who accompanied him re-
turned to the ship, two on the 20th, and the remaining
two on the 21st, worn out with fatigue and exhaustion.
Their depositions were immediately taken, a copy of
which I enclose, only remarking that, up to this time,
and during their trying work, they have done their duty
well, and speak of Lieut. Bellot, although of a different
nation, as an officer that they would -gladly follow as
their leader. All here must feel his loss most acutely ;
he was well known to us when
.in the Prince Albert,
and I consider it a most fortunait thinehis volunteering
to lead the party, for the only officer I had was away
with Captain Inglefield, myself and Mr. Shellibear only
having returned the previous night. I gave him no
orders, merely a letter of remarks for his guidance (see
enclosure), considering his experience sufficient under
any circumstances. I therefore feel his loss most pain-
fully, for be was a good and worthy young man, a credit
to his profession, and, although a foreigner, has shown
such zeal and energy in the cause we are engaged in
that I should feel myself honoured in being 'associated
with him in any way.
"3. On the 21st instant, at 10 minutes after mid-
night, the ice in the bay began to drive out at a rapid
rate, taking us with it ; the inshore place, however,
happily received a check, by which we held on, and have
since maintained our position off Northumberland Sound
The Phoenix and transport were observed setting out of
the bay and off from Cape Riley, where they had been
discharging provisions. The wind at the time was light
from the eastward. At 2 15 a.m., of that morning, both
vessels got so far to the westward, and outside Beechy
Island, that we lost sight of them from our deck. At
3 30 the steamer alone was seen again coming to the
eastward, under steam, but was soon checked by a large
floe-piece. I therefore concluded she had left the trans-
port in a safe position, perhaps in Union-bay which was
clear. At noon she signalised Transport is lost,' and
we could see from our masthead that the steamer herself
was completely surrounded with heavy ice, and their
saws at work, as if endeavouring to cut a dock. In the
evening the ice eased off, when she reached Cape Riley,
took up a position, and commenced discharging. The
next morning, the ice still opening, enabling her to reach
the fast ice in this bay. (Wind northerly at the time.)
"4. I have discharged all my crew who wished to
leave, also those unfit for Arctic service, together with
Mr. M'Cormick, surgeon, and Alston, mate, who were
desirous of returning to England.

"5. An officer and two Men were sent on the return
of the first two men to relieve the others, and also exa-
mine the state of the ice in Wellington Channel, and to
see if was practicable by boat, or otherwise, to commu-
nicate with you. Look-outs also from the top of the
island have been kept, and such is their report, that not
only myself, but Captain Inglefield, consider it impru-
dent to detach any more parties to endeavour to com-
municate.

"6. I have acquainted Commander Inglefield with all
your orders, wishes, and intentions, taking from him
every available article of provision, &c., for travelling
he could spare, and necessary for the expedition under
your command.
"7. From the long continuance of E. and S.E. winds
packing the ice up so much to the westward and on
these shores, that I fear the Intrepid will be very late,
if able to, reach at all, I cannot venture an opinion on
the season at present, merely noting that it is a late one,
and very different from last year. I confidently expect,
and am prepared for, being driven out of this the first
strong N. W. wind. However, I hope to be able to re-
turn again, even if so, prior to your arrival ; and, con-
sidering all these circumstances, a ship being here from
England, the lateness of the season, &c., your opinion
respecting this as a winter quarter coinciding with my
own from actual experience, I shall, if you are not here
by the Ist of September, if possible, remove to Gascoine
Inlet.

"8. I hereby inclose a copy of a notice set adrift on
the Ist of August, and, in conclusion, regret to say that,
having only so lately returned from travelling, and time
being so short, I am unable at present to forward a
separate report, as requested by you, relating to the
stranding and recovery of the ship.
"9. Three of the men of the late Lieutenant Bellot's
party have also exchanged into the Phcenix, so that we
have now almost a new ship's company. I cannot won-
der at so many leaving, for the severe and heavy work
that has fallen to them from the position in which the
ship was unfortunately placed, and the actual necessity
of being obliged to keep them so continually at it, in-
duces me to think that, if I may so say it, they are
cowed, and dread the thoughts of another winter. Had

it not been for the good example shown by the executive
officers, I hardly think we should have kept them up to
the work. I cannot refrain from bringing to your
favourable notice Mr. Elliott, the clerk in charge, whose
duties, from every document connected with the expe-
dition, passing through this ship, and having to be
copied, have not only been heavy, but so continuous
that he has been most unremittingly employed.—l have
the honour to be, sir, your obedient servant,
" W. J. S. PULLEN, Commander.
"To Captain Sir E. Belcher, C. 8., Her Majesty's ship
Assistance, commanding Arctic expedition.
" Document (copy) set adrift this day enclosed. Re-
port from Wellington Channel, just received (noon) from
the summit of Beechy Island, is favourable to the speedy
arrival of Sir E. Belcher with his ships.
" W. J. S. P."

`Her Majesty's ship North Star, Aug. 12, 1853.
"Dear Sir,—You have so gallantly volunteered to
lead the party I propose sending on to Captain Sir E.
Belcher, I gladly avail myself of the offer, and, as time
is short and of consequence, I do not enter fully into
detail, merely giving you a few remarks and a light
equipment. You are already acquainted with my views
as to the probable spot in which you will find the Assist-
ance, and Point Hogarth being a principal point of ren-
dezvous, make for it as speedily as possible, keeping as
much as you can the eastern shores on board ; a s I know
it is Sir Edward's intention to travel this way if he can-
not get on with the ship, it is, therefore, uncertain when
he will leave.
"There is nothing within a reasonable distance of the
shore to prevent a light ledge getting on ; keep a sharp
look-out, and I hardly think he can pass you. You
have one of Halkett's large boats ; I have, therefore, no
fear for your success, for the ice is still heavy in el-
lington Channel, and I hardly think it will break out
this month ; at all events, should you see any signs to
suppose such likely to happen, make for the shore, and
use your own discretion as to advance or retreat. The
boat will track well in shore. Captain Inglefield, it is
possible, may cross you, but it can be only when well to
the northward. However, should such be the case, I ad-
vise you going on together, more especially should he
have his large boat.
" Provisions are en cache at Point Bowden and Point
Rescue, but I trust you will reach the Assistance before
you are out, and she will be approaching you. Pray show
this to both Sir Edward and Captain Inglefield.
" Wishing you God speed and every success,
" I remain, yours faithfully,

"`Y. J. S. PULLEN.►f

EXTRACT FROM SIR E. BELCHER'S ORDERS.
" It is probable that the Assistance will be at or near
Cape Beecher during the month of August, therefore any
dispatches which may arrive are to be forwarded to meet
the ship by the east side of the Wellington Channel, call-
ing at Point Hogarth, which will be a principal rendez-
vous ; at all events, as the distance on the present posi-
tion where the ship may be icebound is not more than four
days' easy march, the officer should be instructed and
provisioned to move on and to communicate with me.,
Indeed, this duty must be imperative, as the final deter-
mination of my movements must depend on the co-ope-
ration of the external division, should it be found neces-
sary to abandon the vessel next season.
"I left the ships well to the eastward of Dundas Isle,
and the ice breaking away fast. Therefore I think you
will meet them well advanced towards us.

„, ~... ____
c 1 WT. J. S. PULLEN.”

" Set afloat from her Majesty's ship North Star, lying
in Erebus and Terror Bay, Beechey Island, on the Ist of
August, 1853. The ice only opened out sufficiently this
day. The north Star was driven on shore by ice and a
heavy south-east gale last September, and only got off
again on the 30th of June, by cutting, blasting, and
clearing a space in the ice to heave her into. No intel-
ligence yet of Sir E. Belcher in the Wellington Channel.
The Resolute and her tender, the Intrepid, are at Dealy
Isle, Melville Island. A party arrived here from the
filrmer on the 30th of May last, with the intelligence of
the Investigator being in Mercy Bay, Baring Island, 167
miles from the Resolute's present winter quarters.
Baring Island is newly discovered land, a continuation
of Bank's Land. The Investigator has been there since
September, 1851. If not able to get through into Bar-
t row's Straits this season she is to be abandoned, and all

hands come on to the Resolute. A party is now away
from this ship on another visit to Cape Beecher for intel-
ligence. Any person picking this up, it is requested it
may be forwarded to the Secretary to the Admiralty,
London, with the date when and where found. All well.
"W. J. S. PULLEN, Commander.

"Another cask was set adrift with this ; and last
September one with two bottles, each containing a
notice."

STATEMENT OF W. HARVEY, BOATSWAIN'S
MATE, HER MAJESTY'S SHIP NORTH STAR.
"Left the ship on Friday night, the 12th August,
1853, and encamped about three miles from Cape Innis.
" Second Journey.—Encamped about three miles this
side Cape Bowden, on broken ice.
_ _

" Third Journey.—After leaving Cape Bowden on
Sunday night we passed a crack about four feet wide,
running across the channel ; we were then about three
miles off shore. After crossing this crack kept on up
channel.

" On being asked as to the state of the ice, replied no
doubts were entertained as to their safety; and M.
Bellot expressed a wish to get up to a cape, which he
said was Grinnell, cheering on the men, saying he wished
to get inshore to encamp, assisting with his track-belt
himself. On arriving at the open water off Cape Grin-
nell (?) M. Bellot tried twice to land in the india-rubber
boat, but in consequence of a strong breeze from S.E.
could not succeed. William Harvey, boatswain's mate,
and William Madden, A. 8., then both got into the boat
and reached the shore, taking a line with them for a
hauling line each way. By this means three loads were
landed from the sledge ; and the men on the ice were
hauling the boat off a fourth time, when Madden who
was up to his middle in water, with the hauling line in
his hand, hailed M. Bellot to say the ice was on the
move, driving up and off shore. M. Bellot told him to
let go the line, which he did. Those remaining on the
ice then ran the boat up to windward on the sledge, but
the ice being so fast in motion before they could remit—
the wished-for point, it had drifted considerably off the
shore. I now went on the high land to watch, and saw
them drifting up the channel, and off the land. I
watched in this position for six hours, but lost sight of
them after two hours. When I last saw them the men
were standing by the sledge, and M. Bellot on the top
of a hummock. They appeared to be on good solid ice,
wind at the time from S.E., blowing hard and snowing.
After waiting for six hours, commenced our return (all
open water in the channel at this time), walked round
Griffin Bay with a little provisions, and reached Cape
Bowden, where we remained to take some rest. We had
not been there long when Madden called me, and said
two men were coming. I jumped up immediately, and
hailed them, asking where M. Bellot was ; they replied
that he was gone. On coming up to us Mook said M.
Bellot was drowned. I asked him if he was sure he
was ; he said, He was almost sure, because he saw his
stick in the water, and could not see him.' After this
we made the best of our way on board, leaving them
there.

" William Madden, A. 8., corroborated the above.
" Did you think the ice was dangerous ?—Yes, I
certainly did, sir.
Why, for fear of breaking through, or breaking off
the land ?—Both, sir.

'' Did you mention your fears to any one ?—No, sir.'
"He also states that they must have been drifted
back and got on shore near the same place where the ac-
cident happened."

STATEMENT OF WILLIAM JONES, A. 8., WHO

WAS ON THE ICE WITH LIEUT:BELLOT.

"We got the provisions on shore on Wednesday the
17th. After we had done that, there remained on the
ice David Hook, 'A.B., Lieut. Bellot, and myself, having
with us the sledge, Mackintosh awning, and little boat.
Commenced trying to draw the boat and sledge to the
southward, but found the ice driving too fast ; left the
sledge and took the boat only, but the wind was so
strong at the time that it blew the boat over and over.
We then took the boat with us under shelter of a piece
of ice, and M. Bellot and ourselves commenced cutting
an ice-house with our knives for shelter. M. Bellot sat
for half-an-hour in conversation with us talking on the
danger of our position. I told him I was not afraid, and
that the American expedition were driven up and down
this channel by the ice. He replied, know they were;
and when the Lord protects us not a hair of our heads
shall be touched.' I then asked M. Bellot what time it
was. He said, About a quarter-past 8 a.m.' (Thursday,
the 18th) ; and then lashed up his books and said he
would go and see how the ice was driving. He had
only been gone about four minutes when I went round
the same hummock under which we were sheltered, to
look for him, but could not see him, and on returning to
our shelter saw his stick on the opposite side of a crack,
about five fathoms wide, and the ice all breaking up. I
then called out Mr. Bellot I' but no answer (at this
time blowing very heavy). After this I again searched
round, but could see nothing of him. I believe that
when he got from the shelter the wind blew him into
the crack, and his south-wester being tied down could
not rise. Finding there was no hope of again seeing
Lieutenant Bellot, I said to Hook, I'm not afraid ; I
know the Lord will always sustain us.' We commenced
travelling to try to get to Cape de Haven or Port
Phillips ; and when we got within two miles of Cape de
Haven, could not get on shore, and returned for this
side, endeavouring to get to the southward, as the ice
was driving to the northward. We were that night and
the following day in coming across, and came into the
land on the eastern shore, a long way to the northward
of the place where we were driven off. We got into
the land at what Lieutentant Bellot told us was Point
fiogarth (?).
" How did you get on shore ?—' In drifting up the
Straits towards the Polar Sea saw an iceburg lying close
to the shore, and found it on the ground. Succeeded in
getting on it, and remained for six hours. I said to
David Hook, "Don't be afraid, we must make a boat
of a piece of ice." Accordingly we got on to a piece
passing, and I had a paddle belonging to the india-rub-
ber boat.' On being asked what became of the india-
rubber boat, replied, It was left where Lieut. Bellott
was lost.' By this piece of drift ice we managed to reach
the shore, and then proceeded to where the accident hap-
pened. Reached it on Friday. Could not find our ship-
mates, or any provisions. Went on for Cape Bowden,
and reached it on Friday night. Found Harvey and
Madden there. They told us they were going on to the
ship with the mail-bag. We rested that night in a mise-
rable state, and in the morning got some bread and pem-
mican out of the cache, and after we had refreshed our-
selves proceeded to the ship.
" What sort of travelling was it ?--Very indifferent
with respect to water on the floe.'
" (States that they were saying it would be better
travelling in the middle of the channel ; and Lieutenant
Bellot, hearing this, said, It was Captain Pullen's
orders to keep close to the starboard shore (generally
keeping within two miles.)'
‘" Had any of you any fears on your way up ?—No,
not any of us.
‘" Do you think M. Bellot was afraid ?—No, Sir ;
he was a good officer.

"DAVID HOOK, A.B. CORROBORATES THE STATEMENT OF

JOHNSON.

g, ' What sort of travelling had you on your way up ?
—Very bad ; so much deep water on the ice.
" ' Did you feel alarmed on your way up ?—No, not
in the least afraid ; I was very glad I was going.
" 'Do you think you could have found a better
route ?—No, sir.

" 'Do you think there is any hope of Lieutenant
Bellot being alive ?—No, sir ; I am sure he cannot be,
for when we missed him we could see the shore distant
then about four miles.'

"W. Johnson, A. 8., further states, Lieutenant Bel-
lot made a remark to him a short time before he was
lost, saying, nothing made him more happy to think
that he was not on shore, for knowing his duty as an
officer, he would see the last danger, adding that he
would rather die here than be on shore to be saved.

" Commander Pullen's remarks,—l think I may posi-
tively say, that I can place every confidence in these
men's statements, particularly Johnson's, who, am happy
to say, not only does his duty well, but is a moral and
good man. The distances which I have placed queries
against I consider they are mistaken in, which cannot
be wondered at, from their anxiety, fatigue, and working
for their lives ; for the distance between Point Hogarth
and Cape Bowden is too great for any man to travel in
so short a space of time. Their going across the channel
to De Haven Ido not doubt, for that place they knew
well, having been there before, and close to it they
knew there was my cache of provisions.
"W. J. S. PULLEN, Commander.

"Her Majesty's ship North Star, Erebus and Terror
Bay, Beechey Island, Northumberland Sound,
Aug. 24, 1853, lat. 74 41 50 N.; lon. 91 54 15 W.
" Two casks were sent from this on the first opening
of the ice in Barrow's Strait on the Ist of August, since
which time, with the continuance of east and south-east
winds, the ice has been closely packed up outside, driv-
ing with wind and tide. On the 23d Wellington Channel
was clear, and the ice opening out from the effect of
north and north-west winds.

Whoever "W.finds this
paper
apSe
r. Pi
sun x,
requestedC om mt
oafndorewr.
a r
it to the Secretary of the Admiralty, London, with a
note of the time and place at which it was found.
" dir Quiconque trouvera ce papier est prio d'y
marquer le tems et lieu ou it l'aura trouvd, et de le faire
parvener au plutot au Sdcretaire de l'Amiraute Britan-
niqne h Londres.
Quienquiera hallari este papel, est pedido de
enviarlo al Secretario del Almirantazgo, h Londres, con
una nota del tiempo y del lugar en los quales se hallo el
dioho papel.
" Enhver som finder dette papiir, anmodes at
indsende samme ufortovet til Regjermgen i Kiobenhavn
eller i Stockholm, eller til Seeretairen of det Brittisk
Admiralitet i London, bemmrkning angaaende tiden
naar, og stedet hvor papiret er fundet.
I " Wb Een ieder die dit papier mogt widen, wordt
hiermede verzogt, om het zelve, ten spoedigste, te willen
zenden, an den Seer Minister van de Marine der Neder-
landen in 'S Gravenhage, of wel aan den Secretaris der
BritAcke Aohniraliteit, to London, en daar by to voepn

eena nota, inhoudende de tyd de plaats alwaar dit papier
is gevonden geworden.' "

MOVEMENTS OF THE SQUADRON SEARCH-
ING FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN AND
OTHERS.

" Her Majesty's ship Assistance, on return to
Beechy Island, westward of laillie Harbour,
and about 10 miles east of Cape Beecher,
July 26, 1853.

" Sir,—The very unexpected arrival of Commander
Pullen in his boat off Dundas Island, just as I had re-
covered my dispatches (deposited for him at Cape
Beecher in May last), places me in the position of ad-
dressing to their lordships a very hurried dispatch.
" First, because a mile gained in this dreadful Strait
is a consideration risking wintering here. Next, Com-
mander Pullen has to return by the west of Dundas and
Hamilton's Islands, and I cannot strain his crew by
carrying them much out of their way.
"After my dispatch of April last I proceeded to the
N.B. as far as the connexion with Jones' Strait in 90
deg., where I found the sea open, and all progress ob-
structed on the 20th of May. Polar sea as far as the
eye could range, from 1,500 feet elevation, 'rough
sailing ice.'

"This elevation in lat. 76 31, and about 90 W. ; but
the whole survey, I trust, will be (on 14 inch scale to 1
mile) ready for transmission before the Ist of Septem-
ber, at which date I purpose sending one of the vessels
home.
"Being cut off by sea, I now pursued an opening
from Cape Separation (nearly 20 miles of Prince Alfred
Bay), and reached Wellington Channel.
I " next, having noticed loom of land from the high
land of Britannia Cliff, started from Princess Royal
Island and reached the westernmost in 78 10 N., calling
the group Victoria Archipelago, and the easternmost,
mystrielltuarnbsentot
t 1
forming the channel to Jones' Strait, North Kent, in
honour of his Royal Highness the late Duke.
" Reports of open water,' the reception of the miss-
rimperative. I reached the ship without casualty on
22d of June, after an absence of 52 days, bringing my
r thceaiunsteesr
interests
rendered e d
those
miss-
ing
shipdispatches,
for
for the list.
men back in good working condition, and not subjects

" Commander Richards performed his work nobly, so
did Lieutenant Osborne, his companion.
" In the first place, by a curious preconception, he
deposited his dispatches for Captain Kellett on the 30th
of April at a point in 76 32, 105 4 W., my point agreed
on being 77 and 105. After having advanced 120 miles
he met Mr. Hamilton seeking these dispatches. He forth-
with put him en route to obtain the dispatches, to over-
take Lieutenant Osborne, and by these means place me
in possession (by the return of the Reliance sledge) of the
important, and, to their lordships, doubtless pleasing
intelligence of the safety of Investigator and crew,
at Banks' Land (as per documents directed to be for-
warded by Commander Pullen) having nearly accom-
plished the N.W. by N.E. passage.
" 10. Commander Richards finding that Commander
McClintock had poached upon his ground, instantly
came to the determination of visiting the Resolute, and
obtaining all the requisite particulars relative to the
Investigator.
" 11. By this course he laid down the shores of the
eastern side of the Hecla and Griper Gulf, and on his
return came up Bryam Martin Channel, proving its con-
nection with our Polar basin.

" 12. 'Operations for cutting out were complete, when
having dispatched a cutter, by calculation to render as-
sistance, she fortunately met Commander Richards at
the critical moment, and after an absence of 94 days I
had the pleasure of taking him by the hand at the mouth
of our canal, on the 12th of July.
" 13. That night, both vessels being afloat and ready,
everything was embarked, and, on the 14th of July, 11
months from leaving Beechy Island, the vessels again,
free from accident of any kind, were again in motion on
their proper element. 48 hours found us half way to
Cape Beecher, two more days to the land floe to Cape
Acland, near Sir R. Inglis Bay, and to-day 10 miles
beyond Cape Beecher, with still 10 miles of open water
in advance.

" Dr. Osborne rejoined on the 15th, after an absence
of 97 days, having worked for the position said to be
attained by Messrs. Goodsir and Marshall on the south
shore, but without meeting with their cairns or marks ;
even until John Barron Hill bore north (true).
"I have directed the North Star to take home, at the
earliest safe moment, the officers and crew of the Inves-
tigator, should they arrive, which, I trust, Captain
Kellett will direct, as I do not conceive, looking to their
lordships' instructions, that any further expense should
be incurred by the detention of that vessel and crew,
merely for the purpose of awaiting the movement of the
ice for 20 seasons. I earnestly hope, however, that she
may fortunately be released this season, and I have that
full confidence in Captain Kellett that such a desirable
determination will not be lost sight of in connection
with the return of his own vessel this season. The cir-
cumstance of the progress of Commander M'Clure, and
the probability of Captain Collinson's following up his
track, must certainly affect my instructions, and I con-
fidently look for despatches to guide me in the altered
state of affairs on my return to Beechey Island. I have
said sufficient of my leading officers to make their lord-
ships aware of their ability and zeal. At the end of
this service I hope to be able to report of the general
conduct and abilities of all the others.

" Fully trusting that their lordships will feel satisfied,
not only that all has been done, but that we are ready
and willing to do more,—l have the honour to be, your
most obedient servant,

" EDWARD BELCHER, Captain,
"Commanding Arctic Squadron

SIR E. BELCHER'S PROCEEDINGS.

" Her Majesty's ship Assistance, Winter Quarters,
Northumberland Sound, Sept. 22, 1852, lat. 'is
52 N., long. 97 W.

" Sir,—Being at this moment about to examine ttohe
coast (by sledge) easterly to Cape Beecher and Hamilton
Island, I take this precaution, in the event of any party
from the North Star visiting our cairns, to afford the
latest information of our proceedings.
On the 14th of August, as my despatch left, Co rn-
modore Pullen would inform you, I quitted Beechey
Island, leaving there Captain Kellett with his
docked
c
instruc-
tions, and who would see the North Star
up safely
Wellington
before quitting. Steaming on, we
passed
Channel without observing Baring Bay, or any of the
deep indentations of the new chart, nor the Mount
Franklin and De Haven. On the morning of the 16th
we noticed a very remarkable pile on a hill, apparently
the work of man, and I immediately moved on in the
Pioneer, examined it, and obtained my first well-fixed
position in these regions. The pile was found to be
merely the remains of a dike, which, being harder than
the surrounding matter, had remained until it acquired
a height of 20 feet—about 14 in the meridian, and 6 feet
E. and W. The position of our cairn (about 100 yards
south of it) was in lat. 76 12 52 N., long. 92 48 42 W.,
evidently the rise from the point where one of the
searching parties observed, in 76 13, distant about
two miles west from us. But the bays, formed north
and south, free from ice, do not exist in any manner
worthy of more than slight indentations. The ice, or
snow, as the southern land is very low, must have de-
ceived the previous visitors. I think I may safely say,
that not the most distant hope of any communication by
sea exists in this direction with Jones's Sound. Although,
from the fogs and vapours which were particularly
noticed from the crow's-nest on board, and by myself
from the deck, exhibiting at times the appearance of
smoke from fires, I am inclined to suspect extensive
lake or arms of the sea, &c., running parallel to the
northern land, and possibly connecting by some very
narrow neck, but westerly much, as it would otherwise
materially influence the tides in this region. I now
speak determinedly in calling things by their proper
names—at least, if any tides are acknowledged in the
English Channel—regular rise and fall, ebb and flood.
Leaving this position, and having already made my
mind up not to interfere with any land which could
have been seen and named by Captain Penny's people,
I pushed on to the westward, reaching Cape Beecher
about midnight, where a deposit of 42 days' provisions
for 10 men was well secured, and notico of our move-
ments left. Passing westerly, we reached, about 4 p.m. the
extreme land. Here I erected a very conspicuous cairn,and
from the summit (about 1,000 ft. above the sea) obtained
a view of the distant land, easterly and southerly,
to S. W., where it ceased at what I shall continuee
of
to
consider as Cape Lady Franklin, reserving theio,
lm
Sir John for the base of my hill. But hence the
view
from Cape Beecher was entirely cut off by aVnet, dvime
ing point not less than 12 miles. The coiaes
nished much in length, will, how
next to me
Captain Penny's names, giving to the .
ts of others his
Cracroft and Poin • t Sophia, and the points however, eommodate
different names.
veritably newly
" The land on which I stood being frm as ' Mount
o
discovered, I took possession, of it in d
mberue
Northuland of North
Percy,' and the territory,
Britain,' naming the expanse of
at the same time
islet-
covered sea beneath me `Northumberland Sound.'
The floe ice having closed in here on the outlying
islands, compelled
me to seek for security for the vessel,
which the sound happily afforded. But, as it continued
to press in, no time was to be lost in selecting a spot
where she might securely winter. This, fortunately,
offered about three miles westerly, where the vessels are
now well frozen in.
On the ISth I made an excursion to one of the
highest peaks of the outlying north-western island, from
which I obtained angles to Cape Lady Franklin, as well
as to the southern and westernmost lands, where it
seemed to trend away S.S.W. ; true the next very dis-
tant land bore N.N.E., about 30 to 35 miles, being
nearly the computed distance which we were from Cape
Lady Franklin. I especially mark these computed dis-
tances to show that under the most favourable circum-
stances in this climate, and with first-rate instruments,
I could barely, at such distances, be sure of the objects
presented to my view ; and even then I asked my assis-
, taut to satisfy himself that it really was land which I
took.

"As far, therefore, as my observations from this point,
and those of Commander Richards, from a much higher
mountain, about five miles easterly of me, on the main,
3XO concerned, there is no visible loom of land between

ape Lady Franklin and
-N.E.; or, by actual obia
From the free motion
direction here parallel to
S.S.E.), I am satisfied that
Sea, composed, in all pro:P.
of islets and sand-banks. .... 114 '--.'
~/ ,''7
Time was now too precious to lose.: in waitintaraj
oPir-water for the ship ; indeed, I judged correctly in
estimating ' the season' closed, and immediately deter-
mined on boat and sledge work. It was first intended
to take two boats, but the former Arctic men thought
that appearances indicated firm ice or floes. For my
own part I determined to secure my great object of set-,
Cling the position of all we had seen, and of being pro-
perly prepared for further operations. The light ice-
boat, built after a model lent to me by Capt. Hamilton,
and named after him, was attached to my sledge. Com-
mander Richards had the second sledge, and Lieutenant
Osborne the third, provisioned for 21 days, and with a
precautionary depot, sent overland to a bay likely to
afford shelter. The party started on the 23d of August.
It was soon found that the pools and cracks between the
floes could not be managed by one boat, and she little
better than pasteboard as to thickness ; a whale-boat was
therefore added. It is immaterial now to mention pax-
ticulars, but on the 25th we landed on a low point,
where the coast suddenly turns to the eastward, and
discovered the remains of several well-built Esquimaux
houses, not simply circles of small stones, but two lines
of well-laid wall in excavated ground, filled in between
by about two feet of fine gravel, well paved, and withal
presenting the appearance of great care—more, indeed,
than I am willing to attribute to the rude inhabitants or
migratory Esquimuax,. Bones of deer, walrus, seals,
&c., numerous. Coal found.
"The addition of the whale-boat rendered the move-
ments of the other party so slow, that I was compelled
to move on singly, leaving Commander Richards to com-
plete the coast line search from his advanced station as
long as his provisions would last (one sledge having
swamped and spoiled the greater part).
" On the evening of the 27th of August, the anniver-
sary of the action at Algiers, I took possession of the first
large island seen from the former station, naming it, in
compliment to the rgallant commander-in-chiet ' Ex-
mouth Island.' The summit I named Milne Peak—our
second in command. To the eastward of me lay a long
table island, to which commander Richards would repair,
and connect it with our survey. From the summit of this
island, 580 feet above the sea, and in lat. 77 15 N., I
had anticipated the satisfaction of commanding a most
extensive range. I was miserably disappointed ; and,
after watching two successive days, for hours, through
snow storms, for merely some glimpse of the land I had
now to seek, I was barely rewarded by ascertaining that
an open sea, of about 17 miles, would enable me to reach
it, if the wind permitted ; for the boat when sledge laden
with tent, bedding, provisions, &c., was not very safe,
even on the Thames above bridge. Fortune favoured us,
weather
our
rda
tdbheyesrtai
cindoanot
tifoi sailsnnu
edl e (tent-bottom) eie. ntxhtt- blaiogftthet otr
afternoon, after
I paddles,dnasftaeat times,
six wehours' reached
affordingto
il.
The ice then moving on to the land, completely entrap-
ped us, but we were safe on terra firma. Thick snowy
us occasionally glimpses of Exmouth and Table Islands.
I took possession of this new edition to her Majesty's
territories under the title of ' North Cornwall,' in com-
pliment to his royal highness the heir apparent. Wait-
ing to secure this position, which was determined to be
in lat. 77 33 30 N., long, about 97 W., and having as-
cended the highest point of land (within three miles
N.E.) and satisfied myself that I commanded the
north-west extreme for a radius of five miles at least,
and that no land within the range of Exmouth
Island (seventeen miles distant) existed westerly of
me, I returned to the beach, and, having hauled the
boat overland, to clear the ice which had entrapped us,
launched into the open water, and pulled along the south
western line of the island about 17 miles, where we
landed, and encamped for the night.

" This position proved to be the southern angle of
North Cornwall, situated in 77 28 50 N. The weather
still continued thick, with occasional snowfalls, and
hiding most of the objects which I was so anxious to
obtain, indeed barely sufficient of Exmouth and Table
Islands to secure my position.
"But in the eastern horizon, where the sun at times
shone brightly, I was enabled from a very elevated po-
sition to satisfy myself that no land was visible in the
eastern horizon for 30 miles ; and the eastern low ex-
tremity of this land, North Cornwall, distant about 10
miles E.N.E.

" Throughout this very interesting search not a par-
ticle of drift wood has been noticed since quitting Vil-
lage Point, and not a trace of human beings. Animal
life seems to fail after quitting Exmouth Island. It is
possible that the snow may have covered many objects,
but we noticed them even when heavier snow had fallen
on Table Island.

" If our unfortunate countrymen have 'taken the floe
and drifted with it' their case is hopeless. If we may
judge from the aspect of the floes, where they had come
into collision, or where they piled themselves in layers
over 40 feet on the north-western extremities of the
islands, the feeling was disheartening. We noticed no-
thing equal to it in Melville Bay. Our only resource
now is the close search of the coast line west and south-
westerly, and north and easterly, for any traces of ves-
sels or crews.

" The tides in the parallel of 77 30 are regularly east
and west, the flood coming from the east, and that tide
to the north appearing to prevail at a depth below the
ordinary thickness of the floe, as we frequently noticed
detached heavy masses, drawing some eight or ten feet,
pressing rapidly and forcibly against the weather floe
edge, and a stiff breeze. The boat was on one occasion
so forced to windward, and stove.

" Finding little chance of better weather, young ice
forming, and our position being very precarious in such
a frail boat against a glassy ice, even now on the sur-
face, we took advantage of the lull, and fortunately
effected our escape, under great difficulty, to Table
Island, the day following to Exmouth Island, and for-
ward, rejoining Commander Richards and party before
reaching Village Point.
" I cannot take leave of the little boat without ex-
pressing, in common with all her crew, cur admiration
of her most perfect adaptation for the service contem-
plated. She had, it is true, sundry severe injuries, but
under Providence we escaped and returned safely. She
has yet, I trust, much to earn before she is laid up with
her honours due.'
" From our examination of this northern sea, I now
feel convinced that the so-termed Smith and Jones's
Sounds are connected immediately with this northern
sea. If Franklin passed easterly through Lancaster
Sound to try the opening of Jones or Smith's outlets, we
may yet fall upon his traces, as my own spring move-
ments will carry me in that direction. Commander
Pullen or Mr. M 'Corinick may have already, in part,
settled this important question ; they were fully im-
pressed by me with the importance of that course of
search.
" Our parties returned to the ship on the Bth of Sep-
tember, having been absent but 16 days. It was satis-
factory, at all events, to find that the opinion 1 had
formed of the season had been fully borne out, the
vessels being securely frozen in from the period we
quitted.

" So rapidly, indeed, did the ice appear to be uniting
in one common floe, that immediate preparations were
made for sending out autumnal parties with the depots
for the southern spring search. The 13th of September
was, indeed, fixed for starting, but gaps were noticed
from our hill (one of the highest in this vicinity), which
entirely stopped our proceedings.
" Eventually, on the 22d, I determined on endeavour-
ing to search closely by the coast line between this and
Cape Beecher, as our rapid movement might have caused
some little object to pass unnoticed—not probable.
" This letter was intended to be deposited at the depot
there for Commander Pullen. Circumstances, now to
be detailed, peevented our getting more than one-third
of the distance--our return we had to be grateful for.
On the morning of the 22d the same sledges and leading
officers started on this service, unfortunately, with a
boat—having reaches_' and pitched our tents for the third
night on an island about 12 miles to the southward of
Mount Percy, or 18 from the ship, the ice also betraying
symptoms of great weakness. Bad weather set in, broke
up the ice, and cut up off from communication with the
mainland for snore than a week, reducing us to half al-
lowance, and materially depressing the spirits of our men.
Food we had in a walrus, which we killed ; also plenty
of fuel But no one Lnew how long this imprisonment
was to last, and the anxiety too ofte.s expressed for very
low temperatures was uncommon in these cold regions.
At length our wishes were in some measure realised ;
the comminuted floes froze once more into ice that bore,
and we escaped to the main, skirting its edge until we
gained a safe landing at night, after sundry unpleasant
espes.
'Further
expeditions this season were eta off, not
one;y3 by the severity of the cold, but by the sea maintain
ing a temperature which prevented heavy ice from form-
ing. 4 I now--having retained this letter—proceed to add
my observations on our late cruise.
Piseneriyntitleldttiosnamheelysu,bjthecet is one
which requires but little comment,
a masterly evinced oh fey
my wish to give him every
creditH
eh a discoveriess;
f
a nmdu
vc g forere
uws hi au tt
ehl
lee
ehta
bs
edyounned.
the usual powers of
men not educated for surveying
operations. Here, however I cease.
" It is probable that he saw beyond what he had any
l
right to see, but our longitudes, &c., elvindce, not
in the right direction
any mathematical right he has, iwillinogulgylgive him all
his possible radius of vision from any point which we
can see, and from which, although never visited by him,
we might be seen.
" I have, therefore, throwing overboard the true
bearing, as well as the possibility of his seeing our points
of the termination of the Queen's Channel, retained the
names of Sir John and Lady Franklin as our turning
points (notwithstanding an island intervenes, cutting off
Cape Beecher at about 12 miles to the south). The
names he has given may be scattered over the interme-
diate points.
"On my return the ships were housed in, stores
landed, and every preparation made for winter. As it
had been intimated to me that magnetic observations on
a complete scale during the winter would be important,
an observatory was constructed on shore, and the decli-
nation magnetometer set up. lam happy to say that
volunteers from both vessels are engaged on this deli-
cate but tedious duty, and I trust that our records may
be able to tell their own tale.
" As my next dispatches will be sent by the spring
travelling parties to meet Captain Kellett to the S.W.,
and Commander Pullen to the S.E., I will wait until the
period for starting arrives, when I hope to be able to
state our prospects and intentions more fully.—l have
the honour to be, sir, your most obedient servant,
" EDWARD BELCHER,
" Captain CenimandiDg Arctio Expedition."