The Sun.
London, England, 1853-10-24 00:00:00

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r PRICE s]).

i although not daylight, open water was ascertained
to be at hand, from the dark appearance of the
horizon to seaward, the vessel was cast off, and
standing in that direction, found we had not
been deceived; the wind during the forenoon coming
from the westward, enabled our running close
along the shore, on which still rested a line of thin
ice, rendering the entrance of what appeared three good
'harbours inaccessible; the land was much less rugged, hav-
ing small hills gradually sloping to the beach, and large
valleys well calculated for the pasture land of animals,
but no particle of driftwood could be observed, which
article has not been seen excepting the small chips near
the ligneous hills since rounding Point " Kellett," or
the western shore. At 5.30 p.m. our course was nearly
obstructed from the ice resting upon a point about two
miles distant ; the studding sails were taken in, but
almost immediately reset, as it gradually opened, allow-
ing just sufficient space for our passage by tipping up
the lower booms ; the shore shortly treading more to
the southward increased our water, but snow and thick
weather with night coming on rendered the land not
200 yards distant barely discernible. Most anxious,
however, at the close of the season to embrace every
opportunity of getting to some place of security- our
course was continued with easy oanvas, when, under
other circumstances, we should have most assuredly
secured for the night, and at 7.30 p.m., with the lead
going, went front 15 fathoms upon a mud bank, having
only six feet under the bow, and at the distance 10 feet
from the stern, only 18 inches, while the stern was in
five fathoms, the stream anchor and cable were laid
out, which service was well performed by Messrs.
Wynniatt, Sainsbury, and Court, it requiring four boats
in consequence of the freshening N.w gale and pieces.
of loose ice with snow, which, caking as it reached the
water, formed so thick a coating over its surface, and
offering such resistance, that it was scarcely possible to
pull through, which, with clearing the forehold and
warrant-officer's storerooms, and bringing all the weight
abaft the mizenmast at 10 p.m., we were enabled to heave
off, and brought up with both bowers in six fathoms
and a half. The remainder of the night was occupied
in restowing the holds, weighing the stream anchor,
&c., so that at daylight of the 24th we were in perfect
readiness to move. On a view of our position we found
that we were on the N.W. side of a large bay, whose
eastern limit bore N.E. eight miles, which we sub-
sequently found formed the western point of " Bank's"
Land, and running to the S.S.W. about seven
which was rapidly filling up with ice flowing in before
a fresh gale from the Polar Sea. Still wishing to see if
any possibility remained of getting down Barrow's
Strait, we weighed, and stood as far as the ice would
allow to the N.E., when, observing from the crow's-nest
no water in that direction, I determined to make this
our winter quarters, and, having remarked upon the
south side of the bank on which we had grounded a well
protected. bay, Mr. Court was dispatched to sound it ;
and, shortly making the signal that there was sufficient
water, we bore up, and at 7.45 a.m. we anchored in four
an 1 a half fathoms, and that night were firmly frozen
in, in what has since proved a most safe and excellent
harlpur, which, in grateful remembrance of the many
perils that we had during the passage of that terrible
Polar sea escaped in reaching, we have named the
"Bay of Mercy," thus finally terminating this short
season's operations, being actually only five entire days
under weigh. Preparations were now made for hous-
ing in, and everything was completed, except hauling
over the cloth, by October 1, which was not done, that
the daylight should be enjoyed as long as possible, and
a saving in lights effected. On that day, as a precau-
tionary measure, the crew were placed upon two-thirds
allowance of all species of provisions. Upon the 4th
Mr. Court was sent with a travelling party to con-
nect our position with that visited by Lieutenant
Cresswell in May last, from which we were only dis-
tant 18 miles. On the 7th he returned, which service
completed the search round the entire coast line of this
island; he reported open water a few miles from the
shore, which, gradually extending, reached the cliffs of
Bank's Land. Upon the 6th, as with two men he was
examining a few miles to the south-eastward of his tent,
that detached the heavy grounded land ice from their '
base, drifting the whole party off shore to the N.W.,
fortunately being unencumbered with the sledge, they
succeeded, .with difficulty and by much agility, jump-
ing from piece to piece in regaining the shore, and that
evening no ice could be remarked in the Strait, the whole
being set into the Polar sea. On the 10th Mr. Sainsbury
(mate), with a travelling party, went to examine an inlet,
which appeared to run some distance to the S.W. from
the south side of the bay, but, upon the following day
returned, finding it extended only twelve miles, the
water shoaling, until it finally terminated in a large
marsh, which, from the numerous traces of animals and
wild foul, may be considered as a favourite resort during
the summer. As there appeared much game in the
vicinity, and the weather continuing mild, shooting
parties, under Lieutenant Cresswell, Messrs. Wynniatt,
Court, and Piers, and the Marines, under Sergeant
Woon, were established in different directions between
the 9th and 23d, so that, with what was killed from the
ship, our supply of fresh provisions on the commence-
ment of the winter, consisted of nine deer, 53 hares, and
44 ptarmigan, all in fine condition, the former having i
been from two to three inches fat.

,-- •
which entering behind e left shoulder,
through the heart and tat the right flank, 'dropping
him dead at hie fe ; they are fine animals, whose
gross weight are ,3301b5., and yield, after deducting
offal and hunter's perquisites, 6501h5. of excellent beef,
%which providential supply is most opportune, as our rein-
/deer were expended last week. Two Esquimaux huts
upon a small islet in the centre of the bay, and the site
of an encampment on a peaked hill on the western shore
of the mainland, are the only indications we have met
with of that extraordinary and hardy people having, at
some period long past, inhabited tins coast ; we have'
now discovered traces of them upon all sides of this
island ; but where are they gone, for certainly there is
not one upon it at present, or why they shbuld have
quitted an island so abounding throughout the entire
year with game, except, as the Eequimaux interpreter
observes, there may be a great paucity of seals, without
which luscious food they cannot exist, and this may be
the reason, as we have seen very few.
During the month of July, the little thaw, which a
temperature falling to 31 degrees every night, and rising
only to 39 and 42 degrees during the day could effect,
has not been much, but the water draining from the
laid rotted the ice round the entire bay, and detached it
from 100 to 300 yards from the shore, so that it has
power to move, and only requires open water in the
offing to allow of its going out, which joyful event we
entertained hopes of realising, as upon the 10th August,
some lanes of water were observed to seaward, and along
the cliffs of Bank's Land there was a clesr space of six
miles in width, extending along them as far as the eye
could reach from the north-west hills at an elevation of
1,000 feet ; and on the 12th, the wind which had been
for Rome time from the northward veered to the south,
which had the effect of separating the sea ice from that
of the bay entirely across the entrance; but, shortly shift-
ing to the north, it closed again, and never after moved.
On the 20th, the temperature fell to 27 degrees, when
the entire bay was completely frozen over, and on the
27th to 19 deg., so that the whole aspect was cheerless
ice being 2e inches thick,
in the extreme, the young
so that the whole bay may be safely -perambulated -
indeed, the summer was fairly gone, for the upland;
are all snow covered, the wild fowl all departed, and
the flowers, which gave cheerful variety to this bleak
land, are all withered. The very season may be con-
sidered as one long sunless-day, as since the latter part
of May that luminary has been scarcely visible, or his
influence felt, upon those icy masses which block "Bar-
row's Strait entirely across ; nor do I imagine that the
Polar Sea has broken up this season, as not a drop of
water has been seen in that direction. During July,
and the early part of August, the crew were daily *em-
ployed gathering sorrel,
o which there was a great quan-
tity upon the hills in this vicinity, and eaten as a salad,
with vinegar or boiled, when it resembled spinach, was
found a most desirable anti-scor'outie, and a great benefit
to all, being exceedingly relished ; but that hardy and
miserable herbage could not withstand this rigorous
summer beyond the 15th of the month. For several days
the ice had been perfectly stationary, and no water
visible in any direction, that along the cliffs of Bank's
land being frozen, so that I felt assured that the winter
had fairly set in, and all hopes of any release this year
totally annihilated, the young ice being five inches thick.
having previously determined what course I should
adopt, under circumstances thus unfavourable, upon the
Bth of September I announced my intentions to the crew
of sending half of them to England next April, with all
the officers not in charge of stores, via Baffin's Pay.
(taking the boat from Cape Spencer) and the Mac-
kenzie, detaining the remainder with the hope of extri-
cating the vessel during the summer of 1853, or, failing
that, to proceed with sledges in 1854, by Port Leopold,
our provisions admitting of no other arrangement ;
although we had already been 12 months upon two-
thirds allowance, it was necessary to make preparations
for meeting 18 months more—a very severe depriva-
tion and constitutional test—hut one which the ser-
vice we are employed upon calls for ; the vessel being
as sound as the day she entered the ice, it wouldthere-
fore be discreditable to desert the ship in 1853, when
a favourable season would run her through the Straits, and
admit of reaching England in safety, where the success-
ful achievement of the long sought for and almost
hopeless discovery of the North-West Passage would be
received with a satisfaction that will amply compensate
for the sacrifice made, and hardships endured in its most
trying and tedious accomplishment. This statement
was well received, and in its execution will, I hope, be
carried out without difficulty,. On the 17th, the wind
shifted to the S.S.E., and blew hard, which a few days
earlier rni,flit have been attended with favourable results,
but now it had no effect, the ice being eight inches thick,
was too firm to be moved, the sails were consequently
unbent, and preparations commenced for housing in.
September 24. This is the anniversary of our arrival ;
the contrast is very remarkable; we entered the bay
with temperature at 33 secs. and not a particle of ice in
it ; to-day, the thermometer stands at 2 degs. with ice
which had never moved, and every indication of a severe
winter. Upon the 25th of October, closed the hatch-
ways and housed the vessel over, it becoming damp and
cold between decks, the vapour funnels, of which there
are five, giving a sufficient ventilation, those over the
hatchways being never closed, carry off all impurities,
so we enjoy a clear wholesome atmosphere below. This
has very much contributed to the excellent preservation
of our healths, and the 26th being the second anniver-
sary of our discovery of the passage, and the last that
we should all be together, the occasion was celebrated
by a small additional allowance of provisions and an
extra glass of grog, which had the effect of putting all
in high spirits, so that the evening was passed most
jovially in singing and dancing. On November 8 com-
pleted the banking up and other outside work, finally
terminating our winter arrangements upon the 18th, by
covering the upper deck with 18 inches of snow. The
deer for the last few days have been coming from the
southward to their winter quarters among these ravines
and sand hills-90 have been met with at one time and
40 at another, but so very wild that few have been
shot. Our two seasons' experience show that these
animals do not migrate to the south as is generally
supposed, but bear the extreme rigour of the climate
and exist upon the scanty herbage, chiefly the dwarf
willow, from off which they break the snow with
their feet, which tapping can be heard at a considerable
distance when the weather is calm, and frequently leads
to their discovery. The hares and ptarmigan have also
descended from the high ground to the sea ridges, so
that a supply of game has been kept up during the
winter, which has enabled a fresh meal to be issued
twice weekly, and the usual Christmas festivities to pass
off with the greatest cheerfulness ; as it was to be our
last, the crew were determined to make it memorable,
and their exertions were completely successful--each
mess was gaily illuminated and decorated with original
paintings by our lower-deck artists, exhibiting the ship
in her perilous positions during the transit of the Polar
Sea and divers other subjects ; but the grand feature of
the day were the enormous plum puddings, some weigh-
ing 2611 A., haunches of venison, hares roasted, and soup
made of the same, with ptarmigan and sea pies. Such
dainties, in such profusion, I should imagine never before
graced a ship's lower deck, Any stranger to have wit-
nessed this scene could but faintly imagine that he saw
a crew which had passed upwards of two years in these
dreary regions, and thrown entirely upon their own re-
sources, enjoying such excellent health, so joyful, so
happy, indeed such a mirthful assemblage under any
circumstances would be most gratifying to any officer ;
hut, in this lonely situation, I could not but feel deeply
impressed, as I contemplated the gay and plenteous
sight, which the ninny great mercies which a kind and
beneficent Providence had extended towards us.

March I.—The most dreary and dark time is now
passed, and severe and trying it has been. The cold of
the last two months was excessive, January showing a
mean of 44 deg.—being 17 deg. below the corresponding
period last year ; and one day the temperature fell to
65 deg., and for 24 hours actuay averaged 62 deg.
I should have doubted the correctness of the thermome-
ter (as np former experience shows so low a register), had
it not been well tested the two preceding winters, when
it only fell to 52 deg. ; but, independent of the glass, the
feelings gave unmistakeable evidence of the extreme
keenness of the weather, as for one entire week the tem-
perature never rose above 40 deg., the wind being about
S.S.W., from which quarter during both winters we
have invariably felt the greatest cold. I, therefore,
imagine that in the interior the land must bo very lofty,
as when the wind veers to the north, which is directly
off the Polar Sea, the glass rises, showing the highest
temperature when it is easterly. These low temperatures
have caused much moisture between decks, and from
ebut, now happily t 0 allow a
pfioorvftefiudbpneoignn counter-gttohecasseeus
not being able
act the effect of this damp atmosphere, it has been mate-
rially felt by the crew. The sick list at one period con-
sequently
increasedsame
eet oseufnr
gidnereoetnpe
,essyn r
r—;
scurvy
of the crew to-day, as to their general state and
scurvy, and thaends
condi-
• •as favourable as I could, under all
tam, is
re-
duced tto
circumstances
have anticipated. During the last month
we have been
employed gravelling a distance of 800 yards
sea ice, with the hope of weakening it, towards the
our being able to move when the
arrives. Upon the third told the season for navigation
proceed to England next m men off that were to
Baffin's-bay ;they month via Mackenzie
and
appeared extremely
the arrangement, as I expl • well satisfied with
explained
to send home all who had to them my object was
severity of the climate suffered the most from the
• , and to which another year might
prove exceedingly t
effective men in rying,
as well as to retain the most
winter. On
the 15th
the event of being detained another
lowance of e the travellers went upon full al-
provisions, which I havo little doubt will,
' y•
before the are rEqu'.red to start, get them good in condi-
tion. 21st.—The weather has been beautiful during the
last week , • the temperature, which until the 16th,ti con-
nued almost daily to fall to-56
degs., on the 17th
~the
rose to —27 degs
following
day to —l4 degs., and
on the 19th to
plus 3 degs., which sudden and delightful
change, after the excessive cold of the last three months
is most . grateful. The invalids are rapidly improving,
the majority taking a daily airing from two to three
hours. The thermometer at noon to day exposed to
the sun rose to plus 40 degs., so that the extreme
severity of the winter is over ; in fact, to tlio
present time, April 5, the temperature daily mounts ill
the shade above zero, which, according to past expe-
rience is exceedingly mild, and may be considered indi-
cative o an early break up of the ice. God grant such
may be the case. On the 15th it is my intention to
start the parties destined to make their way to England,
and from our good sanitary condition, I have but little
doubt all will safely arrive. A fatigue party, under
the command of Mr. Court, second master, will accom-
pany Lieutenant Haswell for a few days, while John
Calder, captain of the forecastle, a trustworthy and
zealous petty officer,
will proceed with Lieutenant Cress-
well as far as the Princess Royal Islands, and from the
depot there return with as many cases of potatoes and
as much chocolate as can be brought on the sledge,
which extra supply will give an ample allowance of
those excellent articles in the event of being detained
here during the ensuing winter, To this period we bay

piTied