The Sun.
London, England, 1853-10-22 00:00:00

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CIRCULAR NOTES.—TheROYA.L BRITISH
BANK issues far Deposits and Balances PROM tz,SORY
31OTE8
b , and CIRCULAR BILLS or LETTERS of CREDIT, and
4, Sor ORDERS, payable to the Bearers on demand, o: at any
thZta Y Important town at home or abroad; and which, for Mer-
in an
.„. and Travellers, possess some peculiar matures of econornyl
-uetY, and utility.
HUGH INNES CAMERON, General Manager.
_ Royal British Bank, Tokenhonse-Yard•

LAURENT'S CASINO, ARGYLL Rooms,
(Lessee, Cuss. C. LATJUNT, Onslow-house, Fulham-road).
Cud above Rooms are now OPEN FOR THE SEASON,
,will continue open every evening, with LAURENT'S
b....z.8RA.T8D BAND. Admission, Is. Doors open at half-past 8 ;
"'lcing to commence at 9 o'clock, and terminate at half-past 11.

ROYAL POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTION.
PATRON—H.R.H. PRINCE ALBERT.
TIrAST WEEK of the SECOND PART of an HISTORICAL LEC
on "THE THAMES," from its Source to its Estuary, by
NEB'ROE BUCKLAND, Esq., assisted by Miss Blanche Younge, with
SONGS and NEW DISSOLVING SCENERY, on Tuesdays and
431 at four o'clock, and every Evening except Saturday at 1,, ine.
LECTIAZS.—By J. H. Pepper, Esq. : On PHOTOGRAPHY, with
Illustrations, Mornings and Evenings.
By Dr. Bachhoffuer : On ELECTRO-GILDING and
SILVERING.
?The LANCASHIRE SEWING MACHINE and BATE'S ICI
, -
',,VED FIRE ESCAPE exhibited in Use and explained Daily.
,m,??..ela Mornings and Evenings. Admission, is.; Schools, and
7"well under Ten years of age Half-price.

ATKINSON and COMPANY, CABINET
MANUFACTURERS, UPHOLSTERERS, and CARPET
iT,,,4ltt HOUSEMEN. 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, and 75, Westminster-
-mge-road, Lambeth, London.

TIC.INSON aid COMPANY, DRAPERS,
-uarktles, Family
A., SILK MERCERS, LACEMEN, &c., 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74,
I.'` 5 Westminster-bridge-road, Lambeth, London.—Shawls, Furs,
Mourning, &c.

0 LOVERS of FISH.-100 REAL VAR-
-1.011 MOUTH for GFISH.-100ackage . The abov
oplwatded to all parts onBLOATERS receipt of penpny postageincluded stamps, or Poste
-
.45 order (preferred), for the amount.—Address, THOMAS
TIS, Jun., Fish Curer, Great Yarmouth.

EAST INDIA CADETS receiving APPOINT-
MENTS, on to Messrs. C, will fur-
-1-w,
„ t'd with ESTlMATESapplication, giving the entire costRISTIAN of an outfit,be with
L.antities required for the routs, via Egypt or the Cape.—Christian
p,.., 4 Rathbone, Manufacturing Outfitters, 11, Wigmore-street.
dr7lies waited upon with samples within one hundred miles of L0u-
...:4,11 required.

GEORGE REEVES, 3,4, and 5, POPE'S
(tea HEAD ALLEY, 19, CORNIIILL, LONDON,
fete opposite the South Entrance to the Royal Exchange), being
tipibinined to supply the Public with the very best WINES and
lovo! ITS, at the lowest remunerating prices, begs to submit the to%
"u% list for their consideration :

WINES.
43')0(1 Draught Ports and Sherries ....... ..... 245. per dozen.
Perior ditto (second to none) ..... • • 325. per dozen.
flue
fine Old Crusted Port, 4 years in Bottle .... 425. per dozen.
flue Old Sherry, Pale or Brown ..... ........ • • 425. per dozen.
SPIRITS.
pi Of the finest Quality, 9s. 6d., 10s. Bd., and 12s. per gallon.
ale Old Jamaica Rums, 10s. 8c„ 125., and 16s. per gallon.
karilivet and Campbelton Whiskies, imported direct, 5 years old,
;.4, voer roof, 20s. per gallon.
u••having purchased. previous to the rise, 50 Hogsheads of
to`'IPS Pale and Brown Brandies, 4 and 5 years old, feels disposed
itl
v4aftl h
er teirs at the Original Prices, taking no advantage of the 3s.
Finest
in the markets.
(~„,"t Pale Champagne Branly .......... •• 28s. per gallon.
coloured ditto .............. 265. per gallon.
rlato
_Mrs charged Is. per dozen, and bottles 2s. per dozen.
otti:!•SIITTANCES in all cases to be made in advance, by Post
Order, or by Cheque payable In London.

SIR WILLIAMBITRNETT'S DISINFECTING
FLUID.—The best Concentrated " CHLORIDE OF INC."—
lik, tair'..". Reduction of Price.—The merits of this Fluid, invented by
" • Burnett, L.D..D. . F.R.S., &c., &c., for the Disinfection of Sick
Clothing, Linen, &c.; the prevention of Contagion; the
tion of Animal Matter from Pntresc,ence the purification o,
k:gewater, Cesspools, Drains, Water Closets. &c , are now so well
-"prn to the public as to render comment unnecessary.
Irr,1(1 at the Office, 18, Cannon-street, City, London, and by Che-
-14';., Shipping Agents, and others throughout the United Kingdom,
hi._llVerlal Quart Bottles at 2s. 6d.; in Pints at s. 3d. ; Half-
.at 9d.; and in bulk at 6s. per Gallon.
CAUTION.—BEWARE
h, OF IMITATIONS.—The•onIy genuine
irizlfecting Fluid is sealed over the cork with the inscription, " Sir
r0~• Enrnett's Disinfecting Fluid," and accompanied with nume-
". Testimonials of the highest order, and instructions for Its use.

THE NEW STAMP ACT.
THE new Act for Penny Receipt Stamps is
intended to facilitate the purposes of business, and to circulate
make
the people a legal guarantee for every purchase. This will
'"ake no alteration to the purchasers of goods at E. MOSES and
F,,s
N'S• for they have always been willing to refund the money for
every article bought at their Establishment, or its Branches, should
..
`za3 goods not be entirely approved ; but it is another proof of the
P Pularity of E. MOSES and SON'S business, which provides the best
'
ardeies at the lowest possible prices, and every description of Attire
blade by them is stamped with superior quality and unparalleled
Style. Thus have they secured the world's confidence by the most
equitable course of trade.
E. Moses and Sox's arrangements for the Winter Season are tnag-
lefleent In every sense of the expression, comprising novelties in
lityles and Materials which cannot be found elsewhere, the Quality,
Cheapness and universal application of the Goods being without any
Zedent, and all classes may furnish themselves with the best artl-
oTtqf Dress, Hats, Caps, Hosiery, Fars, Boots, and Shoes, &c., &c ,
e.eapest and most satisfactory conditions.
go4:chants, Captairs, Shippers, and Emigrants may select such
Cujo,,'as are prepared for the season when they will arrive in the
ti.le„l'ics; this adapts them for immediate sale, and the very low
true carged E. MOSES snd Sore render their Goods the most
abhie investbyment which can be made,
der
of Outfits for Ladi-1 and Gentlemen, with ship-sailing
crilhation, may be had on application, or post-paid.
DiiblinTlON.—.o. MOSES end SON regret having to guard the
theelais,.? against imposition, havlnT lemaed that the untradesman-like
;"00d of Being connec'ed m:th their Establishment," or " It's
tlrpj,,alne concern," has been resorted to in many instances, and for
11'08 reasons, they beg to state that they have
—0 CONNEXION WITH ANY OTIIZS 110013-1 IN Oft OUT OF LONDON,
except their own Establishments, as follows :-
144115 e d°o City Estabrshment, 154, 155, 156, and 157, Minones, 83,
~,'-u.and 86, .Aldgate, opposite the Chu-ch, all communicating.
"4'ildon West-end Branch, 506, 507, 508, New Oxford-street, 1, 2
t 'tut 3, Hart-street, all commun.cating.
4:aclford (Yorkshire) Bralch, 19 and 20, Bridge-street.
efileld Branch. 36, Fargate.
Merchant
Branch, Melbourne, Australia.
7erchant Tailoa. Clothiers, Hatters, Hosiers, Furriers, Boot and
Makers and General Ontltters for Ladles and Gentlemen.
e,41-PORTAIIT.—ShouId any at We not give satisfaction, it will be
1,4,10ged if desired, or, if preferred. the money will be returned
~,,, out hesitation. All goods are marked in plain figures, the lo west
""ec, from which no abatement can be made.
f3jbe Establishments are closed from su set Friday to sunset on
11'daYs when business is resumed till 12 o'clock.
A
eve Book, " The Epitome of Comfort and Economy," contain-
lists of prices, our system of self-measurement, Etc., &c.,
--47
be had on application, or post-free.
%I'. handsome Almanac fbr the year ending 1853 can be had gratis
lei Pon parle Francais. Qui si parla Italian°.
Ater srricht man Deutsch.
Aqua se habia Esnanel
D
0„
w„..-*'` SPECIAL NOTICE.—The Establishments will be CLOSED
eriday and Tuesday, Oct. 24th and 25th, re-opening, as usual,
Wednesday morning, at 7 o'clock.

MEDICAL ADVICE ON THE SECRET INFIRMITIES Or
YOUTH AND MATURITY.
2311, SAMUEL LAIIDRT, 37, BEDFORD-SQUARE, LONDON,
De
tor of Medicine, and Matriculated Member of the University of
Edinburgh, Honorary Member of the London Hospital Medical
AitS'elety, Licentiate of Apothecaries' Hall, London, &c., &c.
AY be consulted, personally, or by letter, on
~ the various disorders of the nervous and generative system,
auilS from juvenile irregularities and excesses, which have pro-
r more misery in yomh, degradation in manhood, and prema-
e_„e decay at all stages of life, than perhaps any other class of dis-
V,3 known to modern pathologists. Long and practical experience
~, the treatment of these diseases has proved that there are in exist.
`":: secret causes of self-acquired miseries and disappointed hopes in
the,sence, traceable to certain pernicious habits, to which Nervous
afrn'lltY, various forms of Insanity, Unhappy and Unfruitful Atarri-
tZi, Impotency, Local and Constitutional Weakness, and their
(iL,ess modifications owe their almost entire origin.
D,,,,!fs absolutely necessary that all men should know that there are
in-"telPles of personal management which cannot be violated without
te„ rrif,_ IS: grievous penalties, and when wisdom and regret succeed
may be
of inconsiderate self-indulgence, how these penalties
"7 be mitigated, how the sting of their bitterness may be removed,
,;_tu how the evil and its conQequerc es may be avoided, and above all,
`i!at there is scarcely any degree of r'iysical infirmity or functional
Ipigement to which the timely aid of science cannot apply a cure
In OCTOR LAIIERT has for a long series of years been engaged
ail extensive practice in the treatment of these 'delicate corn-
of the y, and is the only legally qualified Physician who, regardless
e taunts and envy of the hypocritical and mock-modest, has hid
theennfidence, through the medium of the public press, to direct
lies,n tion to these enormous evils, from which no grade of society Is
In selecting this department of practice, he has been amply
ti.:arded by the great success that has attended his efforts in the
„trAircient of these cases, which are too generally confided to the
tthe„of unqualified and ignorant empirics, who, their virtues
of assumed foreign names and titles, andpretended virtues
h...T air patent nostrums, have inflicted serious injury on those who
r..ax_..,ctibueen induced to place faith in their pretensions.
im't home for consultation daily from Eleven till Two, and from
Eight. All letters must contain the fee of 11., and advice and
'''lefiles can be forwarded to any initials or address.
hot_,l3 desirable that patients wishing to consult Dr. LA'MEILT
`l4 first obtain a copy of his work on
SELF,PRESERVATION.
4;l;l:tined:lean' Treatise on the Philosophy of Marriage and Nervous and
Generative tocutub,,ll.luatrabad.l3.7l2l47 aelourad. angra-ringo, and. a..-
detail the various disorders resulting from secret habits and
ed'ee"es- The perusal of this treatise will assist in the correct
escription of their cases, and may be had, price 2s 6d, in English,
14:11„fhen, gPanish, Dutch, Italian, or German, of Messrs. ie
Saari,
and Co, 23, Paternoster-row; Hannay, 63, Oxford-street=
l, 39, Cornhill ; Stolle, Titchborne-street, Haymarket ; or free
• 'tier forty-two stamps, to any address from the Author's rebi-
REDITOILD.74IIIARE, LOI.DOe.

(311 THE SECRET CAUSES OF SELF-ACQUIRED MISERIES
AND DISAPPOINTED HOPES.
THE SILENT FRIEND.
In Six Languages—Fiftieth Edition.
i, CONTAINING THE REMEDY FOR PREVENTION OF DISEASE.
111 u ME
by One Hundred Anatomical Coloured Engravings and
Cases.
Ilev, Edition, enlarged to 200 pages, price 2s. 6d., by post, from the
TILE SILENT FRIEND,
inmps
asta Medical Work on
the exhaustion and physical decay of the system, produced by
xcessive indulgence, the consequences of infection, or the abuse of
'l‘,ereiary, with directions for the use of the preventive lotion, fol.
bY observations on
by Marriage, and the disqualifications which
I,l"ent it. Illustrated 100 Coloured Engravings. By R. and L.
and CO.. Consulting Surgeons, 19, Berners-street, Oxford-
-'reet, London. Published by Sherwood and Co. 23, Paternoster-
-IZ)vr, and sold by Hannay, 63, and Sanger, 150, Oxford-street ; Gor-
Vn, 14G, Leadenhall-street ; 95, Farringdo,-street ; W. Sutton, 10,
°„'w Church-yard ; Butler. 4, Cheapside ; 11 Johnson, 68, Cornhill.
I. treats of the anatomy and physiology of the reproductive
'5411,1, and is illustrated by 28 Coloured Engravings.
duri Alcr 11. treats of the consequences resulting from excessive in-
rneitnrO,' and their lamentable effects on the system, producing
in and,hodlly weakness, nervous excitement, and generative
eN)acity. Illustrated by 10 Explanator3 Engravings.
theP4arimartreats of the diseases resulting from infection, either in
Prim' or secondary form, and contains explicit directions for
rr
,4. . treatment This section is illustrated by 62 Coloured Engrav-
N
sitni'„A,RT IV. contains a Remedy for the Prevention of Disease by a
,6 application, by which the danger of infection is obviated.
AIT V. is devoted to the consideration of marriage and its duties.
suejeat causes of unproductive union are also considered, and the whole
critically and philosophically inquired into.
In
Pet
2 CORDIAL BALM OF SYRIACUM is exclusively employed
ealng nervous and sexual debility,lmPotence,
`ay"lta__Y, for&c., Ils and 33e.
lellottle. The Concentrated Detersive Essence, an anti-syphilitic
purifying the bd in cases a infection, secondary
botrt°,lB, eruptions, and theta use of mercury, lls. and 335. per
per
}:„_ PerrY's Purifying Specific Pills, 2s. 9d., 4s. 6d., and Ils.
a certain remedy for gonorrhcea. gleet, stricture, and
inflammation
titheo the bladder. Consultation fee, if by letter,
?k• minute detail case is required age, habits, and posi-
llueil4nsociety. Si. Packets, with advice, to be had at the Establish-
are only by which the fee, 11., is saved. Messrs. Perry, Surgeons,
d 0..,"!
"11 t 9 no. attendance, daily, at 19, Berners-street, Oxford-street, Lon-
"orn
OEleven tin TWQ, and Five to Eight; on Sunday from

G R AVESEND STAR
PACKETS.
No other Packets call at the Grays, Greenhithe, and nulled Piers.
The Packets call at the Piers as underlined (weather permitting)

TCI74ICeI
Pier.

7%
ottoA
1934
11%
I%
*2

FROM TERRACE PIER, GRAVESEND.

WEEK DAYS.

d
m
0

Time.

SUNDAYS.

Direct Trains from the Boats marked
Omnibuses from Fenchurch-street Station to all parts of London
every quarter of an hour.

BRUNSWICK WHARF, BLACKWALL, on the iuTival of the fo
lowing Trains from the Fenehurch-street Station.

SUNDAYS.
WREN. DAYS.
. -- 1--------7----T----"--j—' '".
..4 4 .... 11 •
~Q
~.. Z
Fen- 9` t., 5 i,' Fell- ti 8 73 :t- .
.5
;church 9 .E. 5 0 V 8 church o—. 'e 0„ .. ..•
Street. 4> 9 26 ~ .6, Street. Z 4 ~a 0 s
°-i 8 0
g
__ ---
10% _
1214 —, 11 _——. --
2!4
54 5 I

passages marked • are

n direct.
Fore Cabin. Saloon.
To or from Gravesend and London •• •• 10d. .. Is. 2d.
„ Gravesend and Blackwell or Woolwish Bd. •• Os. 10d.
Between Gravesend and Intermediate Piers.. 6d. .. Os. Bd.
BOAT TICKETS.—TweIve Months, si. Os. ; Six Months, 31. Os. ;
Three Months, 21. Os. • to be had of the Collectors on board the
'
Packets; or of Mr. Monk, Terrace Fier, Ormsencl.
Oct. 19th, 18b3. •

TBE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

We continue to-day our publication of Captain
M'Clure's despatches:--
Her Majesty's Discovery Ship Investigator,
off Cape Bathurst, Polar Sea, Aug. 30,
1850, in lat. 70.28 N., long. 128 33. W.

Sir,—ln accordance with the intention expressed at
the conclusion of my last letter, I proceeded in the first
whaleboat, accompanied by Dr. Armstrong and Mr.
•Miertsching, followed by Lieutenant Cresswell and a
party of officers in a cutter, bringing a reriety of pre-
sents. We were met upon landing by two women, who
greeted ns very cordially, and, through the medium of
the interpreter, acquainted me that the remainder of the
tribe were at Cape Bathurst, catching whales, which was
at no great distance, and they would be our guides.
Gladly availing ourselves of this apparently fortunate in-
cident, the boats were directed to pull along shore, while
we, ascending the cliff, reached, a fine level plain, extend-
ing several miles north and south, rich with verdure and
abounding in moss. We preferred walking, hoping to meet
some reindeer, for which the pasture was excellent, but
mile after mile was walked without any appearance of
the fishing party. Arriving, after the expiration of three
,hours, in a small bay, we were, however, gratified at
being told this was the spot where two boats, the year
before last, had pitched their tents for the night (Sir J.
Richardson), and we had to go a very little further.
On reaching the next' bay, we found there two tents,
which our guides said belonged to them, but the Cape
or any appearance of the tribe could not be seen. We
declined going any further, as, in consequence of the
wind falling light, the vessel was by this time hull down.
We were then kindly invited to become partakers of their
tents, and go on the next morning, which hospitable offer
was not accepted ; but, *bartering several articles in ex-
change for salmon, and making them a few presents, we
returned on board, when, at 10.30 p.m., it becoming dark
and foggy, and getting into 31 fathoms, we anchored for
the night.
August 31st, at daylight, found that we were, between
the mainland Bailey's Islands, about a mile from the
latter, the weather still foggy, with a moderate N.W.
breeze, but determined, if possible, to discover the fish-
ing party, at 7. 30 a.m. I left.the ship, with Mr. Miert-
sching and Dr. Armstrong in the cutter, and after coast-
ing about 10 miles, discovered upon the extremity of Cape
BathArst, a large encampment, consisting of 30 tents and
9 winter houses, numbering a little over 300 people.
Upon landing upon a very low isthmus, which connects
within a few yards the islands and mainland, we remarked
a commotion at the village, and a number of men rushed
down the cliffs, launched their kyacks, and crossed to
meat us ; hauling these light and elegant skiffs on the
beach, they advanced with knives drawn and bows
bent, evidently prepared for hostilities. Finding by
our gestures that our intentions were amicab'.e, their
bows were returned to their sealskin cases, but the knives
they still retained. The interpreter told them that
our visit was friendly, and that they should:put away
their; knives. "Yes," said they, "when you do your
guns." To be allowed to carry the musket appeared a
great favour, for which they presented you with their
knife, as a token of friendship. We remained upwards
of an hour ; during the greater part of the time, Mr.
Miertsching was in earnest conversation with the chief—
a fine, intelligent, middle-aged man—upon the neces-
sity 'of his forwarding our despatches to the Mackenzie,
which he promised most faithfully to perform, for which
he was to receive a musket and ammunition, and, upon
his elivering the packet, a further reward equal in value
to atsilver fox-skin. He, however said that their tribe do
not trade with the Mackenzie, but with another further
south, who in their turn traffic with the Indians who
are tn the service of the Hudson's-bay Company ; so,
as t ey have to pass through three tribes of the heathen
before they come into the hands of civilised men,
I think it extremely probable that they may never
reach their destination. Mr. Miertsching, from his
knowledge of the Esquimaux character, thinks other-
wise, and imagines that the chief will himself carry
them. The perfect ease with which this gentleman un-
derstands and converses with these interesting people
surprises them very much ; they were most anxious for
hiry to remain, promising to be very kind. The chief
presented his daughter, a very pretty girl of about 15,
who should be his wife ; tents and all appurtenances
were to be added. While these negotiations were
going forward, upwards of 100 persons .had descended
from the village ; with such a concourse I did- not think'
it prudent to open the bag containing the presents,
well knowing their cupidity is easily excited by the
di4)lay of such valuables, when they are not to be
rcsliOd on. We consequently returned to the boat.
Widen the chief was instructed in the use of his
gun, he shewed himself an apt pupil, and when the
ammunition was given into his hands expressed himself
very much gratified at the gift, and walked towards the
village with his chief men. A line was then made on
the beach, which the recipients of gifts were not to pass
(and this they perfectly understood), and the interpreter
then commenced the distribution. For a little time
order was maintained, but the fair sex becoming clamor-
ous and closing round, the line was broken, and to pre-
vent being driven into the water, we were compelled to
retreat to the boat, which was lying aground about 20
yaids from the beach. By this manoeuvre, we escaped
from all that had not on water-tight boots, but still
about 40 surrounded the cutter ; and, although all the
crew were stationed round her to prevent their getting
on board, so eager and persevering were the women
that several were lifted in, endeavouring to seize
everything within their reach ; one of them in the most
dexterous manner slipped the compass out of its box
into the breast of her jacket, and with difficulty it was
recovered. It was only by great firmness and stoppage
of the supplies that we reduced them. to order, or to
quit the boat. The presents being at length distributed,
and every one in good humour, we wished them fare-
well, and commenced launching the boat, in which
operation they most vigorously assisted, and 17, in their
fairy kyacks,' escorted us to the ship, arriving about a
quarter of an hour before we did—except one, who hav-
ing got some little distance off the shore, encountered
a fresh breeze and rough sea. We shortened sail and
took boat and all in. The poor fellow being drenched,
we offered him a little brandy, which he drank at a
mouthful, not being aware of its strength. He suffered
- the sensation to subside without evincing (except by his
eyes watering) any symptom of vexation, and then asked
for water. Many came on board the ship, but one only
ventured below, who was exceedingly surprised to find
that we had not tents, but houses (cabins), and said he
should have many wonderful things to relate when he
went home. This tribe is a fine intelligent race—cleanly,
handsome, and well-grown ; and I deeply regret that so
little has been hitherto attempted in civilising them. I
sincerely hope that the day is not far distant when this
interesting people may be redeemed from their deplor-
able state of heathen darkness.

At 540 p,m. we weighed, with a moderate breeze
from the S.W., and reached to the S.E. for the purpose
Of clearing Bailley's Islands. At 9 tacked and stood
to the N.W., the wind becoming light and variable.
During the night we made but little progress ; and at 8
a.m. on the morning of September I observed Cape
Bathurst, N.E. by E. 6 miles. In the course of the
forenoon many kyacks came off. The natives, now as-
sured of our friendly intentions, came on board without
the slightest reluctance, and, through the medium of the
interpreter, acquainted us thit during the night they
had been preparing a feast, roasting whale and venison,
and had salmon, blubber, and other delicacies, besides
Plenty of skins, ready at the tents, and hoped we would
come on shore, which, indeed, I should very much
have enjoyed had the vessel been in a less precarious
position ; but under the present circumstances it was
impossible, which it appeared that those on shore un- !
derstbod, for in the afternoon a great many of both'
sexes joined us ; and, all being clamorous to get on
board, we were obliged to take their kyacks on deck.
Seeing their boats were in safety, they made themselves
perfectly at home, examining every article of furni-
ture most minutely. The pictures and looking-glasses
in the officers' cabins were objects of much admiration.
Many were dancing with our men, and so mutually happy
were all parties, that it was, near 6 o'clock before I
could not get them to leave the ship ; indeed, had not
the interpreter told them thlit we were going towards
the pack, and would not again come near their tents,
I very much question if we should have got them
away without compulsion. We understood from them
that the main pack is permanent, never leaving the
shore above 12 or 14 miles. They designate it as the
" land of white bear," as it abounds with those animals,
pack in the forenoon, they entreated
which
they
towards
not to be left there, as they were fearful of the
bear now that so, many of their women were with them.
I One mother mentioned that she had her little child car-
appeared rather to dread, as, when we stood
e

ried away by one of them a short time previous, while
playing on the shore a little, distance from her. The
poor creature shed tears in relating the catastrophe.
At parting several presents were bestowed upon
them, which had the effect of eliciting promises
of friendship for us or any of our white brethren
who might come on their coast. These people had
no article of European manufacture, except a few
iron pots, which certainly they gave a very formidable
price for—no less than five of the best silver fox•skins
for each. The tribe leave the Cape about the 20th of
September, when the ice is sufficiently strong to, bear
their sledges, for the purpose of bartering with the
bordering tribe; they then go to their winter houses
some distance inland, with the exception of a few fami-
lies who live the entire year upon this bleak and inhos-
pitable shore. Sept. 2d.—Fine day, with light northerly
wind, ran along the pack edge, the ice being heavy and im-
penetrable, not a drop of water to be seen from the mast-
head among it ; the water between it and. the shore is
practicable, although encumbered with much loose ice.
Experienced a strong current from the south-east, which
set us to the westward of 'Bailley's Island. Upon the
morning of the 3d the wind gradually vered to the south-
ward, bringing with it a very dense fog, and, being at the
time surrounded with heavy floe pieces and close sailing
ice, through which it was necessary to pursue our course,'
so that every advantage might be taken of the favourable
breeze, the vessel occasionally came into violent collision.
At noon it cleared a little,. •when- Trail Point' bore
S.S.W. about seven miles.; • •sounded in. 65 . fathoms
(mud). The nights having a' few • hours' darkness, blue
lights and rockets are fired for the purpose of attracting
the attention of any parties that might be returning
Ifrom Wollaston to Victoria. Lands .bound. to the Mac-
kenzie. September 4.—Light variable winds, with
warm weather, the temperature rising to 41 dr& ; the
water along shore free from ice ; about four miles to
the westward of the Herten, sounded in 83 fathoms,
and shortly after passed over a narrow shoal having but
13 fathoms ; a few pieces of heavy ice were grounded
upon it ; the land appears to average from 80 to 100 feet
in height, composed of blue cla,y, intermingled with sand.
Many whales have been about the ship—at one time
eight, and from one to four the greater part of the day.
A bear, the first that has been seen, was likewise re-
marked upon some loose ice in-shore, but time would not
allow of its being pursued. September s.—The weather,
which had been squally, accompanied by a thick fog,
during the early part of the day, cleared towards noon,
when a large volume of smoke was observed about 12
miles S.W., and five to the eastward of the Horton, in
the same spot that it had attracted our attention yester-
day. As divers opinions were in circulation respecting
its probable cause, and the ice-mate having positively re-
ported that from the, crow's nest he could distinguish'
several persons moving about, dressed in white shirts,
and observed some white tents in a hollow of the cliff, I
certainly had every reason to imagine they were a party
of Europeans in distress, convinced that no travellers
would remain for so long a period as we had remarked
the smoke in one spot for their pleasure ; therefore, to
satisfy myself, equally as otheis, I determined to send a
boat on shore, as it was now calm. The first whaleboat,
under Lieutenant Cresswell, with Dr. Armstrong and
Mr. Miertsching, was dispatched to Examine into the
cause, who on their return reported the smoke to emanate
from 15 small mounds, of volcanic appearance, occupy-
ing a space of about 50 yards, the place strongly im-
pregnated with sulphur, the lower mounds being about
30 feet above -the sea level, the highest about 50 feet.
The land in its vicinity was blue clay, much intersected
with ravines and deep watercourses, Varying in elevation
from 300 to 500 feet ; the mark of a reindeer was traced
to a small pond of water immediately above the mounds ;
a notice of our having landed was left, which would
not long remain, as the cliff is evidently rapidly
crumbling away. Thus the mystery of the white
shirts and tents was most satisfactorily explained.
A breeze shortly springing up from the westward,
we made sail to the N.E. ; during the night it
freshened considerably, with rain and thick weather.
This, combined with four hours' darkness, compelled me
to shorten sail, although loath to lose the full benefit of
the fair wind ; but we struck heavily against large blue
floe pieces that were barely above the water, that the
greatest vigilance and attention were insufficient to
avoid them, so no alternative remained to prevent dis-
aster. A great many seals and whales were seen in
Franklin-bay ; no less than 15 of the latter were play-
ing around us at one time, but very small, or, according
to Greenland fishing phraseology, " having only three-
foot bone," so Mr. Newton, the ice-mate, informs me.
At 4 a.m., upon the morning of, the 6th, we were off the
small islands near Cape Parry, bearing N.E. by N. ten
miles, with a fine westerly breeze, and loose sailing ice,
interspersed with many heavy floe pieces ; the main
pack was about three miles to the N.W., apparently
one solid mass. At 11.30 U.m. high land was observed
,pn the port bow, bearing N.E. by N„.. distant about 50
miles. On approaching it the main pack appeared to
be resting upon the western shore, which side it was
my intention to have coasted had it been possible ; the
eastern one being, however, comparatively clear as far
as could be ascertained front the masthead, decided me
to follow the water, supposing it an island round which
a passage would be found into the Pol.ar Sea. We con-
tinued working to windward the whole of the night, and
by 9.30 a.m. of the 7th were off the South Cape, a fine
bold headland, the cliffs rising perpendicularly upwards
of a thousand feet, which was named "Lord Nelson's
Head," in memory of the hero, whose early career was
connected with Arctic adventure. We shortly after-
wards hove to, and, with the first whaleboat and cutter,
landed and took posession, in the name of her most gra-
cious Majesty, calling it "Baring's Island," in honour of
the First Lord of the Admiralty. A pole was erected,
with a large painted ball upon it, near a cask which was
left, containing a notification and other particulars
of our having been there. The sights obtained by
artificial horizon place the signal staff in latitude
71°.6' N., longitude 123° 0' W. ; and the fall of the
tide was ascertained to be six inches during one hour
and a half. We observed numerous recent traces of
reindeer, hare, and wild fowl ; moss and divers species
of wild flowers were also in great abundance ; many
specimens of them equally, as of other subjects of in-
terest to the naturalist, were selected with much care
by Dr. Armstrong. From an elevation obtained of
abqut 500 feet we had a fine view towards the interior,
which was well clothed with moss, giving a verdant ap-
pearance to the ranges of hills that rose gradually to
between 2,000 and 3,00 feet, intersected with ravines,
which must convey a copious supply of water to a large
lake situated in the centre of a wide plain, about 15
miles distant ; the sight to seaward was favourable in
the extreme ; open water, with a very small quantity
of ice, for the distance of full 40 miles towards the east,
insured good progress in that direction. Returning on
board at 1 p.m.„, we made sail to the eastward, having
a beating wind. Continued working along shore, is
soundings varying from nine to 76 fathoms, dark mud
mixed with yellow clay, until close to the land, when it
changed to fine white sand. The weather becoming
foggy, our lead was the only guide until 10 a.m. of the
9th ; it then cleared for a short time, when land was
observed to the eastward, about 15 miles distant, ex-
tending to the northward as far as the eye could reach.
The mountains in the interior are lofty and snow-covered,
while the low ground is quite free. Several very re-
markable peaks were discernible, apparrently of volcanic
origin. The discovery was named Prince Albert's Land,
in honour of Her Majesty's Consort, in lat. 72 1 N.,
long. 119 25 W. Continuing our course slowly to the
N.E., in consequence of thick fog, snow, aid baffling
winds, at 8 a.m. of the 10th we were near two rocky
islets, named after her Royal Highness the Princess
Royal, the largest being about 600 feet in height, and a
mile and-a-half in length, the southern and eastern sides
being precipitous ; the other was about a quarter of a mile
long and a hundred feet high, gradually sloping to the
water's edge, representing very much the appearance of
an inverted whale-boat. The wind becoming fair, and
weather clearing, all the studding sails were set, with
the hope of reaching Barrow Straits, from which
we were now distant about 70 miles. The water was
tolerably clear in that direction, although much ice was
lying against the western land, and from a shoal extend-
ing towards it from the largest of the Princess Royal
Islands, upon which we obtained 13 fathoms water,
much loose ice was also in motion, and, while endea-
vouring to run between two floes, at the rate of four
knots, they closed so rapidly, one upon either beam,
that our way was instantly stopped, and the vessels
lifted censiderably ; in this position we were retained a
quarter of an hour, when the pressure eased and we pro-
ceeded. Our advance was of short duration, as at 2
p.m. the wind suddenly shifted to the north-east and
began to freshen ; the water, which a few hours pre-
vious bad excited sanguine hopes of a good run, became
soon so thickly studded with floes that by 4 p.m. there
was scarcely sufficient to keep the ship free ; this by
much exertion was, however, effected, until 2 a.m. of
the 11th, when we were beset ; at 5 a.m. the ice again
opened, which admitted of our getting a few miles to
the north-east, until 11.30 a.m., when our course was
impeded by a very dense pack. At 7 p.m., the wind
shifting t o the north-west, set the whole body of the ice
upon the eastern shore, which shoaled our water from
80 to 50 fathoms in one hour ; a clear space of two miles
was, however, the result of this movement, in which we
continued working the whole night, and upon the morn-
ing of the 12th we perceived we had lost some miles, as
the pack was in motion to the southward • also the fur-
ther mortification of seeing the whole of the western
shore perfectly exempt from ice, while the space of water
we occupied was becoming rapidly more limited by very
large and heavy floes, through which we were unable
to force, and at 11 a.m. were again beset. A fresh
gale, with snow, which continued until the morning
of the 13th, pressed the ice so heavily upon the vessel
that the rudder was unhung to prevent its being dam-
aged ; during the night the temperature fell to 10°, and
the land became completely snow-covered ; on the 15th,
however, it rose to 30°, with the wind from the S.W.,
which set the ice in motion, compelling us to shift
our berth, to avoid collision with an immense floe.
At 2.30 a,m. commenced warping, which tedious

and laborious duty confirmed with but ,slight inters
mission until half-past 12, 'when we passed into clear
water. A run of five miles to the N.E. brought us to
another icy field too dense to penetrate, extending from
shore to shore, which here is about 12 miles asunder.
The weather towards sunset becoming thick with snow,
we ran into six fathoms, and secured to a piece of
grounded ice under the western land, with the intention
of remaining during the night, as they were then long,
and dark ; therefore, navigating close, ice is quite im-
practicable ; the wind, which had been fresh from the
S.W. during the day, about 7 p.m. fell light, when the
ice in the N.E., no longer restrained, spread itself
abroad with such rapidity, that at a little after eight it
was observed approaching, its white line, clearly defined,
running like an unbroken wave along the dark smooth
water. To turn the hands up, make sail, and cast off
the warps, was but the work of a few minutes ; yet with
such violence was it impelled, that we had scarcely time
to tow clear of the piece we had been fastened to before
it encircled the vessel, sweeping her away to the S.W.
into five fathoms. I expected to have been driven on the
beach ; fortunately, from-some unseen cause, its course
was changed to the S.E., which took us into 20 fathoms,
thus fluctuating between hopes and fears until 11.45
p.m., when its progress was mysteriously arrested, and,
gradually opening out, allowed of our running into clear'
water. As the navigable season was now drawing to a
close, which the fall in the temperature, as well as the
formation of pancake ice upon the surface of the water
whenever the wind became light, unmistakeably pointed
out, it became a subject of anxious consideration What
course to adopt in regard to the safety of the vessel, whe-
ther, 'by running to the southward, in which direction
the water was still open, endeavour to obtain a harbour
in one of the, bays indenting the south-eastern side of
Baring's Land, the nearest probably being sixty miles
distant, and then only the chance of finding, a safe an-
chorage . which, if our search proved a failure, would
place the vessel in a worse situation than at present, ex-
posing her to a wide sea range, subject to heavy 'pressure
from the enormous massive floes with which the Polar
Sea is encumbered, but from which we are here protected
by the Princess Royal Islands, or continue our ad-
vance to the north-east as long as the season permitted,
and then submit to the only alternative, that of hazard-
ing a winter in the pack. I decided upon the; latter,
for these reasons,—that to relinquish the 'ground ob-
tained'through so much difficulty, labour, and anxiety,
for the only remote chance of finding safe winter quar-
ters, would be injudicious, thoroughly impressed as I
am with the absolute importance of retaining every mile
to insure any favourable results while navigating these
seas, the loss of which might frustrate the operations of
a whole season. Above all, being in the vicinity of
Bank's Land, and in the direction which Sir J. Frank--
lin would, in all probability, have endeavoured to pene-
trate, could he have reached Cape Walker. I therefore
considered that our position was most eligible for carry-
ing into full, effect the instructions of my Lords Com-
missioners of the Admiralty, when the season becomes
favourable for dispatching parties upon this important
and interesting search. These, Sir, were the considera-
tions which influenced me in this " choice of difficulties,"
and they will, I trust, appear of sufficient validity to
meet with the concurrence of their lordships, hazardous
as was the experiment. At 6 a.m. of the 17th,
the wind, which had been light from the N.W.,
gradually died away, when we were almost immediately
beset. There were several heavy floes in the vicinity ;
one, fully six miles in length, passed at the rate of two
knots, crushing everything impeding its progress, and
grazed our starboard bow. Fortunately there was but
young ice upon the opposite side, which yielded to the
pressure ; had it otherwise occurred the vessel must in-
evitably have been cut asunder. In the afternoon we
secured to a moderate-sized piece, drawing 8 fathoms,
which appeared to offer a fair refuge, and from which we
never afterwards parted ; it conveyed us to our furthest
N.E. position, lat. 73.7 N. long. 117.10 W., back
round the Princess Royal Islands. Passed the largest
within 500 yards to lat. 72 42 N., long. 118.42 W., re-
turning along the coast of Prince Albert's Land, and
finally freezing in-at lat. 72.50 N., long. 117.55 W.,
upon the 30th Sept., during which circumnavigation we
received many severe nips, and were frequently driven
close to the shore, from which our deep friend kept
us off. To avoid separation, we had secured with two
steam cables (one chain) two 6 and two 5 inch hawsers.
As our exposed position rendered every precaution ne-
cessary, we got upon deckll2 months' provisions, with
tents, warm clothing, &c., and issued to each person a
pair of carpet boots and blanket bag, so that, in the
event of ony emergency making it imperative to quit
the vessel, we might not be destitute. On the Bth of
October our perplexities terminated with a nip that
lifted the vessel a foot, and heeled her 4 degrees to port,
in consequence of a large tongue getting beneath her,
in which position we quietly remained. As, however,
there was a probability of being thrown upon the ice, it
was requisite that a smooth surface should be made to
receive the vessel, which was accomplished with much
facility, by blasting the hummocks along the edge of
the floe for about 150 yards, and 20 in breadth. This
done, and every indication of the pack being now tho-
roughly cemented with a temperature of 7 minus, we
completed housing over, and other arrangements for
our winter-quarters. As the weather upon the 10th
was calm and fine, and the ice quiet, at 8.30 a.m. left the
ship, accompanied by Lieutenant Cresswell, Dr. Arm-
strong, and Mr. Miertsching, with a party of seamen,
carrying a pole, &c., to plant upon the shores of Prince
Albert's Land, to which we proceeded to take posses-
sion in the name of Her Most Gracious Majesty. This
accomplished, we walked to the highest hill observable
at the distance of five miles, to an elevation of 1,500
feet, which gave an extended view in every direction.
The country was very hilly, with deep ravines and large
lakes. This appears the general character of the land
on both shores. The course of the water towards the
N.E. we were anxious to trace, hoping to see an open-
ing into Barrow's Strait. In this we were dis-
appointed, from the many low points intervening,
rendering it impossible to ascertain the land from
the sea, both being frozen. On our return we had the
mortification to find that the land and sea ice had
separated about 100 yards along the whole line of coast.
We walked by its margin for some miles, hoping to
meet with a loose piece of ice to ferry us across ; but
night closing rapidly subjected us to so many falls,
owing to the inequalities of our road not being distin-
guishable, that we were compelled to halt, and com-
mence firing to attract attention, but our distance from
the ship was too far to render our signals of any utility.
At 8.30 p.m. Mr. Court, with one of the many parties
that were searching the ice in all directions, fortunately
saw our flashing, and made for it ; but, unsuspecting
our dilemma was created by open water, he had no boat;
immediately returning, he met with a party which had
two of Halkett's. These were soon launched ; only
getting them through the pancake ice, which was by this
time an inch thick, was attended with great difficulty.
The sea ice also rapidly settinc, to the northward, the
boats after each transit had to be carried south before
being launched, so as to insure their reaching the only
spot from which the party to be relieved could embark.
This operation commenced at 10.30 p,m., and by mid-
night we were all over, and reached the ship at 2.30 a.m.,
all parties meeting with heavy falls, but receiving no
accident of consequence. I cannot refrain from noticing
the excellence of Halkett's boats, or speak in too high
terms of the ingenuity of their inventor. These admir-
able little articles were inflated on board, and with the
greatest facility carried upon a man's shoulders over ice
which, from its excessive roughness, no other boat could
by any possibility have been got across without being
smashed. By their means a large party were relieved,
who were without tents, clothing, fuel, provisions, or in
any way provided to withstand the severities of a polar
night, with the thermometer 8 degrees minus. The
consequences to them might have been very serious ;
as it was, however, the annexation of Prince Albert's
Land to the British Crown was considered to have ter-
minated so favourably, that I directed an extra supper
and allowance of grog to be issued to my energetic crew
as a reward for their eight hours' vigorous exertions.
Being dissatisfied with the view obtained from Prince
Albert's Land respecting the waters we were now in as
to their connection with Barrow's Straits, which would
settle the question of a north-west passage, I determined
to proceed in that direction with a travelling party, al-
though rather late in the season, as soon as I felt that the
vessel might be safely quitted, which I judged would oc-
cur after the ensuing spring tides, if at that period there
was no commotion among the ice. Accordingly, upon the
21st, everything being favourable, I started with Mr.
Court, second master, and the following men :—Robert
Calder, captain of the forecastle ; Robert Tiffeny, cap-
tain of the maintop ; Michael Flynn, quartermaster ;
George Brown, A.B. ; Peter Thomson, captain of the
foretop ; and James Saunders, private, Royal Marines.
The ice, for two miles from the ship, was so rough that
Lientenant Haswell and the whole of the ship's com-
pany were occupied in carrying the sledge and different
articles of lading. At 8 a.m. the sledge was finally
packed, when, with the fatigue party in charge of Mr.
Wynniatt (mate), accompanied by Dr. Armstrong, as an
amateur, we set off to the north-east at noon ; the fa-
tigue party, having taken us eight miles, were directed
to return. Soon after they quitted us we got among
very difficult ice. The sledge was broken, but, quickly
fishing it, we proceeded. Unfortunately, scarcely an
hour had elapsed, when in crossing a floe, the inequali-
ties of which were imperceptible, it came down with such
a crash that it broke into pieces. This was unlucky,
but, pitching our tent, Mr. Court and Peter Thomson
(captain of the foretop) started for the ship, where they
arrived at 7.30 p.m., and rejoined the next day at 2 p.m.,
with a fresh and larger sledge, and a fatigue party, with
Mr. Wynniatt, to carry the damaged one back. (This
party, upon my return, I found did not get on board
until the following day, being stopped by a heavy snow
drift, but, having a tent and provisions, did not suffer.)
As soon as the new comers were refreshed, the sledge
.
was packed, and by 3 p.m. we were again off, co.ilit3inli
ing our course, without any further disaster,
gratification
j
p.m. of the 26th, when we had the extreme t
ionf lat. 114 39 W. (cbrono
ented
pitching733louNr„telnotngupon the shores of Banorregotr‘oVrt's), Strait,
.
very
Upon the
i1n1461e4 Woha.rltus,narw),henreearslyironEdthv.,:ea,
ee
.ar.sryrephraess
correctly marked the loom of ti
about 600 feet in height,
a 'small bill
myself ascendedfollowing morning, before sunset, Mr. Court and
50 miles. The extreme
so that we could
command an extensive view of 40 or
point
of Prince Albert's Land

bore long. 78 E, true, about 35 miles, the furthest land
N.N.E., 3 miles. The Melville Island shore 'oeuld not
be discovered, but in that direction the ice appeared to
be very heavy, and the floes exceedingly large. While
we were making these observations the crew were busily
engaged erecting a cairn above the water (which had
been named Prince of Wales Strait, in honour-of his
Royal Highness), in which a copper cylinder was de-
posited. The spot is so conspicuous that any person
passing along the shore must remark it. All being
completed by 10 a.m. of the 27th, we turned for the
ship, arriving upon the morning of the 31st, having in
nine days made in a direct line 156 miles by observa-
tions, with a temperature of between + 7 and---15 de-
grees. Upon the afternoon of the 30th the weather,
which had been overcast, suddenly brightened, showing
the Princess Royal Islands, distant about 12 miles. At
3 p.m. I left the sledge, with the intention of getting
early on board, to have everything in readiness for the
comfort of the party, anticipating their arrival at 9 p.m.
Unfortunately, the weather became again foggy about
5 p.m., followed soon by darkness ; consequently my
way was speedily lost, compelling me to wander about
the floe during the night. with a temperature of from
5 to 15 degrees minus, when at seven the next morning
I had the mortification to find that I had passed the
vessel 4 miles, which I reached by 8.30 a.m., and im-
mediately dispatched a party to assist Mr. Court, who.
Has-
well that on the 29th was at 5 miles distance, having. most judiciously en-
camped about 7
miles lien:L. the when the fog be-
came too dense to travel.
I paq, " consisting of Messrs. was agreeably surpriied.t6.learii " from Lieut.
Sains-
bury,Has-
Paine,
_Mierisching, and Newton, while sporting
upon Prince Albert's Land, had encountered a herd of
a.
musk cattle, 2 bulls- a cow, a heifer, and. calf, and most
adroitly shot the whole, which yielded 1,2961 b. of excel-
lentexpe nutritiouseted
maybe m er ae
regarded
a •EiiipplY thus 'opportune and un-
d
as a most favourable termina-
tion to our season's operations, in which we have been
nearly enabled to carry out verbatim their Lordships'
instructions, in reaching the ice by the Ist of Augnst,
and establishing a position near-Baziks's Land, which
service has been performed "under circumstances over
which we could exercise but little, control, our only
credit consisting in seizing the advantages that an In-
visible Power scattered along our road through fields
of ice, where all human exertion would' have been as
uavailing as the feebleness of a child to advance us one
yard.
The winter--that dreary period of the voyage which
I had looked forward to with much' apprehension,
passed mildly away, there being very little snow or
wind, without our- sanitary state being in the slightest
degree impaired, fost.which happiness I assign these
reasons—viz.,

1. The unflagging spirits and cheerfulness of the men.
2. The excellence of every species of provisions.
3. The free ventilation of the lower deck.
4. The extreme attention of Dr. Armstrong (upon our
monthly inspections) to the state of the crew.
So that the month of March found us in a most
healthy and efficient condition. Accordingly, upon the
3d we commenced our preliminary duties by taking a
30 foot whale-boat to the larger Princess Royal Islands,
where it is my intention to leave three months' provi-
sions for all hands, that, at the breakino• up of the' ice,
should the vessel unfortunately get crushed, we may have
a certainty to fall back upon, which will enable us to reach
the Plover without hazard of starvation—this duty being
completed, as well as the transporting of another whale-
boat, besides one of Halkett's, to the eastern shore,
distant five miles, for the facility of allowing the tra-
velling parties going along that coast to reach the islands,
should the ice break up and carry the vessel away dur-
ing their absence. All arrangements being now made
for the start of the searching parties, and the weather
becoming very favourable for travelling, upon the 18th
of April three were dispatched under Lieut. Haswell,
S.E. shore ; Lieut. Cresswell, N.W. shore ; and Mr.
Wynniatt (mate), N.B. shore, with six weeks' provisions
each.

At 1 a.m. May 6, Mr. Wynniatt (mate) having broken
his chronometer at the distance of 120 miles from the ship
returned, but, all being in good condition, they were
completed to 30 dayil' provisions, and at six p.m. were
again en route. At the same time, two hunting parties
with tents, &c., left the ship—one for each side of the
Strait, as some deer had been seen, besides several
ptarmigan and four hares shot. This early indication of
fresh provisions is a subject of deep congratulation, in-
dependent of the very healthy and exciting occupation
for the crew, who are all eager for the sport.
May 20.—Lieutenant Cresswell returned in conse-
quence of the severe frost bites of two of his men, hav-
ing reached lat. 74 16 N., long. 117 40 W., being
absent 31 days ; during the greater part of the time he
was subject to strong N.W. winds, sweeping from the
Polar Sea, through Barrow's Strait, which meeting him
in the face rendered it exceedingly difficult to walk
against, the thermometer being frequently 15° below
zero ; he, however, traced the coast line, which, for
about 70 miles along Banks's Land, was very precipi-
tious, averaging from 1,000 to 1,400 feet, from which it
gradually slipped to a point trending to S.W., appa-
rently the extreme of the land in that direction, as it
abruptly turned to southwards. An elevation of a
thousand feet, aided by an exceedingly clear atmo-
sphere, left no doubt in his mind that the Polar Sea was
before him, and that Banks's Land is a part of Baring's
Island. He was anxious to make a further advance,
and encamp during two days, with the hopes that the
invalids would recover, but, finding them getting worse,
he very properly deemed it advisable to return with all
haste to the ship. Before reaching her, however, both
had to be borne upon the sledge, which threw the work
upon four men • when, getting into heavy snow, the
officer had to fall in at the drag ropes ; nevertheless,
the working people arrived in most excellent health
and spirits. On the 21st a large bear was killed.
Upon examination of the stomach an extraordinary
medley was discovered, consisting of raisins, tobacco,
pork, and adhesive plaister, so that I came to
the conclusion that the Enterprise must be near,
the animal not having been seen before near our
dirt heap, nor were there any traces of him about
the ship. I therefore determined to send a party to the
S.W., the only direction we had no travellers, to satisfy
myself upon the subject. Accordingly at 6 p.m. on the
22d Lieut. Cresswell, and his party, completed with two
fresh hands, were again dispatched with provisions until
June 10. Upon the 24th the above mystery was satis-
factorily solved. Some men in pursuit of a bear about
half-a-mile from the ship picked up a preserved meat tin
with articles in it identical with those found in the sto-
mach of the bear killed on the 21st ; the foot prints of
the animal were likewise abundant on the snow. This
evidence was perfectly conclusive as to the locality
where brain had obtained bis dainties. This being the
anniversary of the birthday of her Most Gracious Ma-
jesty, a Royal salute was fired, and the colours displayed
in celebration of the event. _ _

...
29th.—Lieut. Haswell and party returned all in the
most perfect health, having traced the coast towards
Wollaston Land, to lat. 70 38 N., long. 115 W., from
which point, the day being remarkably clear, he observed
the outline of land to the distance of full 40 miles trend-
ing to the S.W. but having advanced 25 days he con-
sidered it prudent to proceed no further. Two large
inlets and a deep bay were examined, besides an archi-
pelago of small islands along the northernmost shore of
the southernmost inlet, which is high, bold, and strati-
fied, each inlet trending to the E.N.E. from 80 to 90
miles. The whole coast was strewn with driftwood, and
many vestiges of Esquimaux encampments were met
with, but of a very old date. Upon returning he was
most surprised to find a party, consisting of 18 natives,
encamped upon the ice a few miles from the N.W. point
of the northernmost inlet in quest of seals, butthey
were very friendly and well-disposed, but not under-
standing each other, no information could be ob-
tained. They exchanged a few presentsand
upon that day week he arrived on board, having r-
mained out his forty-two days, thereby fulfilling his
instructions to the letter. In; eonseence
to
fthtehsee
above, I immediately decided upon
people,. for the purpose of obt proceeding
obtaining information
that might determine the uveisettieorniareLaainn4to the Prince
Albert's, Wollaston, and Victoria as to their
forming part of the Ame"ican continent, or whether
each was an island ; therefore, taking Mr. Miertsching
(our invaluable interpreter) and 12 days' provisions, at
6 p.m.. we started, and early on June 3d fell in with
them, about 10 miles to the northward of the point
where they were first met with. They conversed freely
with the interpreter, giving every information we re-
quired, relative to. the trending of the coast as far as
they knew, which was some distance along Victoria
Land ; 'this they did by tracing upon a large sheet of
paper which I brought for that purpose, continuing a
sketch which Mr. Miertsching had made from the ship
to their tents, which they immediately comprehended,
and, as they were very particular in placing the island
of "Sutton" and " Liston," with three smaller ones not
mentioned in the chart, off Wollaston Land, I an:' fully
persuaded of its correctness, and only regrettediic
1 h they could not go further (a tracing of w
land
accom-
paniesoppe-
this narrative). They describe a largef,that
site Wollaston, called "Nunavakb
course is America, to which the
they only trade with the Esquimaux a bn .:fa. ,c t
unorr
e
saadr a ul
never
..., been,_is as
p er perfectlysopreearis,
had they the slightest article of European t them
about them ; the use and sight
bseainmg e o.
copper—their
i Throne we
copper
ps
new, all their implements
and arrows barbed with the
observing any
of
remarkably fine (but, not
me by one our men
tents, the specimen was given .
inquiring where it was procured, but
~unfortunately, we lost
some time after quitting them)
the opportunity of
I am inclined to think that it comes from the south-east
tribes, in their bartering transactions, as
v
Itheerefeewf
thatand
simple ornaments which they es
metal, and obtained thence. These are a kind, siin pl
and purely pastoral tribe, devoid of the knavish propene,-
sities which so strongly
intensechara those upon the
Mackenzie and Colville, where nte.
savage, 1 souse with civilized
man has demoralized the
the presents brought for them theutmoljstp observed ; although, the
opnropdrieieptl)a-ymi,nags
doubtless, all were anxious to par-
ticipate in these treasures, there was not that eagerness
to seize which rendered our interchange with the other
Esquimaux so troublesome ; so far was it from these to
do so,
to that it Was with difficulty we could persuade
lent, the
them accept them without our receiving an equiva-
•
ticlo was y inquArgiven them,
ing of the interpreter, after each ar-
-1 what we wanted for it, A. piece

of scarlet cloth which I tied girl's neck re•
mained there until we were going away, when she ran
up to Mr. Miertsching to ask what she was to give in
exchange, and when assured it was a gift from the chief,
she gracefully acknowledged it with a smile. No wea-
pons were remarked among them except for the chase;
their whole demanour bespoke peace. They live near
their present locality the whole year, not going any fur-
ther to the northward, nor do they believe that there are
any others in that direction; but to the S.E., along
Victoria and Wollaston Land, the coast is thickly
populated. It appears very extraordinary that they do
not even possess traditionary legends of their ances-
tors hiving been north, where the numerous traces
which lwe 'met with upon both sides of the Straits, as
well as on large Princess Royal Island, show that
at one period the whole of this coast must have been
densely populated. Their language, Mr. Miertsching
observes is identical with that spoken on the Labrador
Coast, rAt half-past 9we left this interesting people on
our return to' the ship, which we reached at 7 p.m. of
the sth, exceedingly gratified by the result of our plea-
sant; excursion, our only misfortune being Cornelius
Hullott, my coxswain, having both feet badly frost-
nipped. At 5 a.m. of the 7th Mr. Wynniatt (mate)
returned with his party, having been 50 days under the
tent. From his exploration of a portion of the S.E. shores
of Barrow's Strait as far as lat. 72.6 N., long. 107.42 W.
(D.R.), whence the land was observed for about
-15 miles trending to the N.E., after rounding
Point Peel, lat. 73.21 N., long. 112.30 W., the north-
west, point of Prince Albert's Land, he reports it to be
-in all respects, as to formation, the same as in this vici-
nity for the distance of about 40 miles, when, upon
crossing a deep inlet, the land assumed a north-west
aspect, and became high, precipitous, and barren. No
drift-wood of any description was met with, but the ice
lay against its base in heavy and unbroken masses.
Further to the eastward a lesser one was circumamba-
lated, having in it several small islands, with its southern
shore formed of stratified cliff, having an elevation of
about 800 feet. Upon the 10th, at 7.45 a.m., Lieutenant
Cresswell and party, having completed their l9 days,
returned from their search towards the S.W. to lat. 71
10 N., long. 123 4 W., making in the aggregate 50
under the tent, during which, he had coasted three sides
of Baring's Island, from the north shore of which be
looked upon the Polar Sea, and upon the south walked
24 miles on it, both presenting the same smooth surface,
which I consider to be attributable- to the long preva-
lence of north-easterly winds at the termination of the
navigatile season setting the heavy ice, which we en-
countered and saw resting upon the western side of the
island, over to the American and Asiatic shores, which
may cause the great difficulty in rounding-Point Barrow
lite in the season. Unfortunately, the weather became
overcast, which limited his view to the northward,' only
allowing him to' observe that the coast was high awl
bold. Upon this excursion he met with four partitions
of the ice, varying in breadth from 10 to 20 feet, appa-
rently running across the strait ; but, being provided
with one of Halkett's valuable little boats, this obstacle,
which would otherwise have caused a detour of many
miles, was easily overcome. It is impossible to recom-
mend these boats too highly upon a service of this de-
scription, where every article of weightsis objectionable.
Their whole fitting is but 251 b., When not required
they form a platform on the sledge to stow the baggage,
and when in use they are carried inflated upon the top.
Thus, on two occasions, they have been of essential
service] without the smallest inconvenience. Lieutenant
Cresswell erected a cairn, and deposited a cylinder
within it, upon a lo* beach near Cape Lambton ; he also
remarked the vestiges Of Esquimaux encampments upon
almost every part of the coast upon which lie pitched
his tent for the night, many of them thickly strewn with
the heads of musk oxen, which denotes no paucity of
those animals upon these lands ; indeed, at the present
time both shores of the strait are covered with wild-
fowl of every description, musk oxen, deer, hares, ptar-
migan, and golden plover. This is certainly the most
fertile part of the Polar regions, and must be the breed-
ingplace of those aniinals, which find rich pasturage
amiang its alluvial plains and valleys, unmolested by the
Esquimaux, the traces of whose remains; being over-
grown with moss, and rotten, have reference to a long
time anterior. This party, with much spirit and zeal,
performed their return journey of upwards of 160 miles
in nine days and a-half, under eircumstances reflecting
much C'fredit upon them, the lateness of the season being
unfavourable to so rapid an advance. All being now
on board and in excellent health, with the exception of
three of the travellers suffering from frost-nips, our sea-
son's travelling operations may be considered to have
terminated fortunately, and, from the close examination
which has been made over a vast extent of coast, the
direct distance of which, 'by observation, embraces 800
miles, to which a third may be added for the devious
windings of the coast-line, without observing the slight.
est vestiges of any spar or other indication of civilised
man having reached these shores, I am fully confident
that the missing expedition under Sir John Franklin
has never penetrated towards the Polar Sea in this di-
rection, as some portion of the immense mass of stores,
spars, or fitments with which those ships were provided
must have been picked up, when driftwood of very in-
considerable dimensions did not escape observation. (A
chart, showing the extent of discovery and course of
each searching party, accompanies this letter.)
I am also of opinion that Prince Albert's Land is part
of the continent of Arnerica, and that Point Peel is its
north-west extremity, and that the land thence is con-
tinuous to Cape Walker ; the peculiar formation of its
shores, from the very deep inlets which run into the in-
, terior, give the appearance of straits which in reality do
not exist, as was apparently the case between Victoria
and Wollaston Lands, and which is very probably the
same between Cape Walker and North Somerset. My
opinion is strengthened by the Esquimaux upon this
coast speaking the same language as those of Hudson's
Straits, . which Mr. Miertsching, the interpreter, thor-
oughly understands, and conversed fluently with them,
while with those of the Colville and Cape Bathurst lie
found it sometimes difficult to do so. Consequently, I
think it very probable that the forefathers of these have
crossed from Hudson's Straits, and kept the coast line of
Victoria and Wollaston Land, and have thus retained
the purity of their language, which those upon the north
coast of America have lost by constant intercourse with
the Indians. I certainly should have considered it my
duty to endeavour to decide this point by detaching a
boat through the Dolphin and Union Straits' but I feel
assured that that service was accomplished by Dr. Rae
last year, as he evidently was not in this direction.
During the absence of the searching parties the re-
fitting of the ship was carried on, under the direction of
Messrs. Sainsbury (mate) and Court (second master), so
that upon their return little remained but to get the
boats from the eastern shore, and the tents and appur-
tenances, which the shooting parties had upon each side
of the strait, on board, the weather being unfavourable,
and the state of the ice becoming too precarious to allow
of any persons being so far distant from the ship. This
being effected, as also the repairing and painting of a
boat which is to be left with the provisions at the large
Princess Royal Island, completed upon the 13th
we had
the satisfaction of having every one on board,
with the
vessel thoroughly refitted, caulked, painted, and watered,
and in every respect as efficient for the service we have
to perform as the day that we quitted Plymouth, with a
trifling sick-list, principally from the effects of frost-nips
and foot-soreness from the travelling. We now
await
with no little anxiety the disruption of these mighty masses of ice by which we are encircled, and the conse-
quences depending upon that event, which cannot be
contemplated without deep apprehension.