The Sun.
London, England, 1853-10-24 00:00:00

which entering id the left shoo , past 447
through the ' . out at the right fl k, droppireg
him dead at 4,, feet ; they are fine animals, whore()
gross weight ge 1,3301b5., and yield, after deducting
offal and hunter's perquisite; 6501b5. of excellent bee,
which providential supply is most opportune, as our rein -
deer were expended last week. Two Esquimaux huts i
upon a small islet in the centre of the bay, and the site
of an encampment on a peaked hill on the western shore
of the mainland, are the only indications we have met
with of that extraordinary and hardy people having, at
some period long past, inhabited this coast ; we have
_.........e.ea5e. now discovered traces of them upon all sides of this
island ; but where are they gone, for certainly there is
althouh not daylight, open water was ascertained
not. one upon it at present, or why they should have
to begat hand, from the dark appearance of the
quitted an island so abounding throughout the entire
horizon to seaward, the vessel was cast off, and
ear with game, except, as the Esquimaux interpreter
0h
standing in that direction, found we had not •
Yserves, there may be a great paucity of seals, without
from
been deceived ; the wind
enaduring the forenoon
running coming
which luscious food they cannot exist, and this may be
the westward, bled our
along the shore, on which still rested a lisle of thin the reason, as we have seen very few.
ice, rendering the entrance of what appeared three good During the month of July, the little thaw, which a
harbours inaccessible; the land was much less rugged, hav-
temperature falling to 31 degrees every night, and rising
ing small hills gradually sloping to the beach, and large only to 39 and 42 degrees during the day could effect,
valleys well calculated for the pasture land of animals, has not been much, but the water draining from the
I'llo rotted the ice round the entire bay, and detached it
but no particle of driftwood could be observed, which
article has not been seen excepting the small chips near from 100 to 300 yards from the shore, so that it has.
the ligneous hills since rounding Point " Kellett," or power to move, and only requires open water in the
the western shore. At 5.30 p.m. our course was nearly offing to allow of its going out, which joyful event we
obstructed from the ice resting upon a point about two entertained hopes of realising. as upon the 10th August,
miles distant ; the studding sails were taken in,
some lanes of water were observed to seaward, and along
almost immediately reset, as it gradually opened, al but
allow- the cliffs of Bank's Land there was a clear space of six
ing just sufficient space for our passage by tipping up miles in width, extending along them as far as the eye
the lower booms ; the shore shortly treading more to could reach from the north-west hills at an elevation of
the southward increased our water, but snow and thick 1,000 feet ; and on thel2th, the wind which had beer.%
for some time froni the northward veered to the south,
weather with night coming on rendered the land not
200 yards distant barely discernible. Most anxious, which had the effect of separating the sea ice front that
however, at the close of the season to embrace every of the bay entirely across the entrance; but, shortly shift-
opportunity of getting to some place of security our ing to the north, it closed again, and never after moved.
course was continued with easy canvas, when, under On the 20th, the temperature fell to 27 degrees, when
other circumstances we should have most assuredly the entire bay was completely frozen over, and on the
secured for the nht ,
and at 7.30 m
27th to 19 deg., so that the whole aspect was cheerless
going, went from
ig
15 ,
fathoms upon a p.mu., with the lead d
bank, having in the extreme, the young ice being 2 inches thick,
only six feet under the bow, indeed, the summer was and at the distance 10 feet so that the whole bay may be safely perambulated ;
from the stern, only 18 inches, while the stern was in fairly gone, for the uplands
five fathoms, the stream anchor and cable were laid are all snow covered, the wild fowl all departed, and
out, which service was well performed by Messrs. the flowers, which gave cheerful variety to this bleak
w in
nse
yeoquence of the freshening N.W.
gale and pieces
pnniatt, Sainsbury, and Court, it requiring four boats land, are all -withered. The very season may be con-
sidered as one long sunless-day, as since the latter part
of loose icewith snow, a
coating over its surface, and which, caking "
as it reached the of May that luminary has been
scarcely visible, or his
water, formed so thick influence felt, upon those icy masses which block 00 Bar-
offering such resistance, that it was scarcely possible to row's Strait entirely across ; nor do I imagine that the
pull through, which, with clearing the forehold and Polar Sea has broken up this season, as not a drop of
warrant-officer's storerooms, and bringing all the weight water has been seen in that direction. During Jllly,
abaft the mizenaste at 10 p.p.m.,y
we were enabled to heave and the early part of August, the crew were dail em-
off, and brought up with both bowers in six fathoms ployed gathering sorrel, of which there was a great quan-
and a half. The remainder of the night was occupied tity upon the hills in this vicinity, and eaten as a sales-,
in restowing the holds, weighing the stream anchor, with vinegar or boiled, when it resembled spieace was&c., so that at daylight of the 24th we were in perfect found a most desirable anti-scorbutic, audit great benefit
readiness to move. On a view of our position we found to all, being stetisjetiftrigesiiihsel • but that hardy and
that we were on the N.W. side of a large bay, whose miserable herbage coula nerisiiihstand this rigorous
eastern limit bore N.E. eight miles, which we sub- summer beyond the 15th of the month. For several days
sequently found formed the western point of " Bank's" the ice had been perfectly stationary, and no water
Land, and running to the S.S.W. about seven visible in any direction, that along the cliffs of Bank's
which was rapidly filling up with ice flowing in before land being frozen, so that I felt assured that the winter
a fresh gale from the Polar Sea. Still wishing to see if had fairly set in, and all hopes of any release this year
any possibility remained of getting down Barrow's totallya annihilated, the young ice being five inches thick.
aBnthop , under circumstances thus unfavourable, upon the
Strait, we weighed, and stood as far as the ice would Having previously determined what course I should
sending
September I announced my intentions to the crew
allow to the N.E., when, observing from the crow's-nest
of half of them to England next April, with all
no water in that direction, I determined to make this
the officers not in charge of stores, via Baffin's Bay
our winter quarters, and, having remarked upon the
(taking the boat from Cape Spencer) and the Mae-
south side of the bank on which we had grounded a well
protested bay, Mr. Court was dispatched to sound it ;
kenzie, detaining the remainder with the hope of extri-
cating the vessel during the summer of 1853, or, failing
and, shortly making the signal that there was sufficient
water, we bore up, and at 7.45 a.m. we anchored in four
and a half fathoms, and that night were firmly frozen that, to proceed with sledges in 1854, by Port Leopold,
in, in what has since proved a most safe and excellent our provisions admitting of no other arrangement ;
harbour, which, in grateful remembrance of the many although we had already been 12 months upon two-
thirds allowance, it was necessary to make preparations
perils that we had during the passage of that terrible
Polar sea escaped in reaching, we have named the
for meeting 18 months more—a very severe deprive-
" Bay of Mercy," thus finally terminating this short
tion and constitutional test—but one which the ser-
season's operations, being actually only five entire days vice we are employed upon calls for ; the vessel being
as sound as the day she entered the ice, it would there-
under weigh. Preparations were now made for hous-
ing in, and everything was completed, except hauling fore be discreditable to desert the ship in 1853, when
over the cloth, by October 1, which was not done, that a favourable season would run her through the Straits, and
the daylight should be enjoyed as long as possible, and admit of reaching England in safety, where the success-
a saving in lights effected. On that day, as a precau-
ful achievement of the long sought for and almost
tionary measure, the crew were placed upon two-thirds hopeless discovery of the North-West Passage would be
allowance of all species of provisions. Upon the 4th received with a satisfaction that will amply compensate
Mr. Court was sent with a travelling party to con- for the sacrifice made, and hardships endured in its most
nect our position with that visited by Lieutenant trying aid tedious accomplishment. This statement
Cresswell in May last, from which we were only dis- was well received, and in its execution will, I hope, be
tent 18 miles. On the 7th he returned, which service carried out without difficulty,. On the 17th, the wind
completed the search round the entire coast line of this shifted to the S.S.E., and blew hard, which a few days
island ; he reported open water a few miles from the earlier might have been attended with favo urable results,
but now it had no effect, the ice being eight inches thick,
shore, which, gradually extending, reached the cliffs of
Bank's Land. Upon the 6th, as with two men he was was too firm to be moved, the sails were consequently
examining a few miles to the south-eastward of his tent, unbent, and preparations commenced for housing in.
that detached the heavy grounded land ice from their September 24. This is the anniversary of our arrival ;
base, drifting the whole party off shore to the N.W., the contrast is very remarkable ; we entered the bay
fortunately being unencumbered with the sledge, they with temperature at 33 secs. and not a particle of ice in
succeeded, with difficulty and by much agility, jump- it ; to-day, the thermometer stands at 2 degs. with ice
ing from piece to piece in regaining the shore, and that which had never moved, and every indication of a severe
evening no ice could be remarked in the Strait, the whole winter. Upon the 25th of October, closed the hatch-
being set into the Polar sea. On the 10th Mr. Sainsbury ways and housed the vessel over, it becoming damp and
(mate), with a travelling party, went to examine an inlet, cold between decks, the vapour funnels, of which there
which appeared to run some distance to the S.W. from are five, giving a sufficient ventilation, those over the
the south side of the bay, but, upon the following day hatchways being never closed, carry off all impurities,
returned, finding it extended only twelve miles, the so we enjoy a clear wholesome atmosphere below. This,
water shoaling, until it finally terminated in a large has very much contributed to the excellent preservation
marsh, which, from the numerous traces of animals and of our healths, and the 26th being the second anniver-
wild foul, may be considered as a favourite resort during sary of our discovery of the passage, and the last that
we should all be together, the occasion was celebrated
the summer. As there appeared much game in the
by a small additional allowance of provisions and an
vicinity, and the weather continuing mild, shooting
parties, under Lieutenant Cresswell, Messrs. Wynniatt, extra glass of grog, which had the effect of putting all
in high spirits, so that the evening was passed most
Court, and Piers, and the Marines, under Sergeant
Woon, were established in different directions between jovially in singing and dancing. On November S corn-
s
th Ileted the banking up and other outside work, finally
e 9th and 23d, so that, with what was killed from the
Iship, our supply of fresh provisions on the commence- terminating cur winter arrangements upon the 18th, by
ment of the winter, consisted of nine deer, 53 hares, and covering the upper deck with 18 inches of snow. The
44 ptarmigan, all in fine condition, the former having deer for the last few days hove been coming from the
been from two to three inches tat. southward to their winter quarters among these ravines
The weather during the winter has been much more and sand hills-90 have been suet with at one time and
boisterous, but in each month several degrees more mild 40 at another, but so very wild that few have been
titan was experienced in the Prince of -Wales Strait, shot. Our two seasons' experience show that these
nearly a degree and a half further south, last year, animals do not migrate to the south is is generally
which, in conjunction with the animals remaining in supposed, but bear the extreme rigour of the climate
numbers in this locality the entire winter, must, I sup- and exist upon the scanty herbage, chiefly the dwarf
pose, be taken as a proof of its mildness, although laying willow, from off which they break the snow with
exposed to the north-west winds, direct from the Polar their feet, which tapping can be heard at a considerable
Sea, which, upon our first being frozen in, led to the distance when the weather is calm, and frequently leads
anticipation of having to encounter a severe season, to their disc every. The hares and ptarmigan have also
In consequence of our favoured position, the crew were descended from the high ground to the sea ridges, so
enabled to ramble over the hills almost daily in quest that a supply of game has been kept up during the
of game, and their exertions happily supplied a treh winter, which has enabled a fresh meal to be issued
meal of venison three times a fortnight, with the excep-
twice weekly, and the usual Christmas festivities to pass
tion of about three weeks in January, when it was too
off with the greatest cheerfulness ; as it was to be our
l
dark for shooting. The small game, such as ptarmigan last, the crew were determined to make it memorable,
and hares, being scarce, were allowed to be retained and their exertions were completely successful—each
by the sportsmen as private property. This healthy mess was gaily illuminated and decorated with original
and exhilarating exercise kept us all well and in ex-
paintings by our lower-deck artists, exhibiting the ship
in her perilous positions during the transit of the Polar
romf
voeunsipsehpauresdirnegass,tesdo,maenwd esioguhp-
cellent spirits during another tedious winter, so that
Sea and divreertshoeteneer subjectsl z
; but
puddings,
grand feature of
on the Ist of April we had upwards of I,ooolb. of
venison hanging at the yard-arms. All wearing so the
odyhswe
fair an aspect, and being desirous of visiting Winter ing l'sl • haunches
• h •
made of the same, with ptarmigan and sea • pies. Such
Harbour, Melville Island, with the hope of meeting an , , ,
suchprofusion,lshould •
in dainties, in
the thre with whom arrangements might be made
a ship's lower deck. Any
stranger to have wit-
itthe event of any accident occurring which would render graced this could but f •
the 11th nessed scene
that he saw
necessary to quit the ship, I proceeded on
a crew which had passed
with a Mr. Court (second master) and a sledge partyfor
dreary regions, and thrown upwards of two years in these
that port, but in consequence of thick weather homing , . . wn entirely upon their own re-
sources, enjoying such excellent •
on a few hours after leaving the vessel, and continuinghealth, so joyful, so
unintermittingly for several days, we did not reach
t reach until happy, indeed such a mirthful
circumstances would assemblage under any
the 28th. Upon the 15th we observed a very lofty cape
but, in this lonely be most gratifying to any officer ;
bearing N.E. by E. 30 miles, which I have called Queen situation, I could not but feel deeply
Victoria in honour of her most gracious Majesty (the impressed,
as I contemplated the gay and plenteous
same which had been remarked last autumn from the sight, which the many great mercies which a kind and
high land near the ship), the land to the north-east beneficent Providence had extended towards us.
forms the bottom of Syddon Gulf, while that upon its March I.—The most dreary and dark time is now
western side stretched to the N.W. in one unbroken passed, and severe and trying it has been. The cold of
mountain line as far as the eye could reach. At Winter the last two months was excessive, January showing a
Harbour we obtained a set of sights for the purpose of mean of 44 deg.—going
17 deg, below the corresponding
testing our chronometers, which were ascertained to be period last year ; and one day. the temperature fell to
going exceedingly well ; and having deposited a notice 65 deg., and for 24 hours actually averaged 62 deg.
of
of our visit under the same cairn that Lieutenant I should have of the th r o .
doubted the correctness e m me-
M'Clintock left one last year, upon a large fragment f o ter (as no former experience shows so low a register), had
sandstone, bearing this inscription, viz., " His Britannic it not beenwell testedpreceding winters, when
Majesty's ships Hecla and Griper, Commanders Parry
it
onlyfell
52thetsvo independentef
the
glass, the
feelings to deg. ;but,
and Lyddon, wintered in the adjacent harbour during evidence of the extreme
the gave unmistakeable
the winter of 1819-20, A. Gisher, sculpsit," at 6 .entire week the tern-
commenced commenced our return, travelling upon fiat ice nearlyp keenness
perature o f rite weather,ee
above a:
o fordeg., one
the wind being about
the entire way, accomplishing in 10 days what occupied 'w,
from
mer
whichro
quarter during both winters we
18 upon the outward trip, and reached the ship upon the have invariably felt the greatest cold. I, therefore,
9th of May, when I had the gratification of receivin a
the imagine that in the interior the land must be very lofty,
most satisfactory reports concerning our sanitar cogndi-when the wind veers to the north, which is directly
tion, and likewise that the supply of venison coyntinued off
ff
the
Polar Sea, the glass rises, showing the highest
abundant, having 20 head of deer on board. In conse- temperature when' it is easterly. These low temperatures
quence, the ration of venison was increased to 11Ib- have caused much moisture between decks, and from
thrice a week, as the crew were hard at work, clearing not being able to allow a sufficiency of firing to counter-
the holds, collecting and bringing off ballast ; the latter act the effect of this damp atmosphere, it has been mate-
a very laborious occupation, from the lax ace th riall felt bthe crew. The sick list at one period con-
had to search over in picking u a suffici ge
ofstone to Ytl increased to nineteen five being cases of
p ehcy . sequen y
same ,of dropsy ; but, now happily re-
complete 100 tons, which was not accomplished until the scurvy, and the upon the scurvy
and the surgeon's report
25th, after which we commenced • . . .
watering, obtaining it duced to ten,
to their general state and condi-
from a lake about a mile from the ship, by boring of the crew to-day,
bleaass I could, under all circumstances
through 7 feet 10 inches of ice, and cutting a reservoir tion, is as favoura
d During the last month we have been
to receive it : this forming a species of Artesian well, have anticip
at
a distance of 800 yards towards the
which gave a bountiful supply, enabling the water- employed g
ithrathe hope of weakening it, in the event of
ing to be completed by the 13th of June, previous sea ice, w
to move when the season for nevi • gate:in
to the commencement of the thaw, which was a our being able
Upon the third told the men off that were to
great advantage to the crew, as it kept them dry- arrives._
ped to En land next month via Mackenzie and
footed. About this time flocks of wild fowl, consisting Pr" • the a neared extreme]
-name s-bay , yP. , y well satisfied with
of swans, geese, and all descriptions of ducks, began to es
arrangement, as I explained to them my
object was
arrive, but finding no water, merely took a flight round
the
send home all who had suffered the most from the
the north-west extreme of the land and returned to the
steeverity of the climate, and to which another year might
southward, from which it would appear that the season I
rove exceedingly trying, as well
• h snow Pr ,
is late ; indeed, the land is as much covered with
of i effective men in the event of be'
as in the depth of winter, nor was it until the 25ethreau ,
! winter. On the 15th the ing detained another
travellers went upon full al-
the month that any alteration took place, when
es
of
lowance of provisions, which I
.have little doubt will,
streams commenced trickling dos n the sunny slels
On before they are te
the ice qu red to start, get them good in condi-
the ravines, and little ponds formed upon
With one tion. 21st.—The weather has been beautiful during the
the 30th s"w
of the most we
severe northerly gales had an entire day
I ever of heavy
witnessed at so last week ; the temperature, which until the 16th, cons
:
the Ist of tinued almost d
advanced a period of the season ;and P,?
its
tnickness four rose to —27 d
~, ally to fall to-56 degs., on the 17th
degs., the following day to —l4 degs., and
July found that the ice had increased
seveni feet two inches, On the 19th
to plus 3 degs., which sudden and delightful
inches during the last month, being
both
at Port Leopold , change, after tile excessive cold of the last three months
a most unusual circumstance, as
found a very con- •s
and in the Prince of Wales Strait
we
of June the tern- is most . grateful. The invalids are rapidly improving,
siderable decrease ; during thew
monthshowing an average of ae majority taking a daily airing from two to three
perature likewise was veryofo
the crew at their monthly hours. The thermometer at noon to day exposed to
31 deg. The appearance the sun rose to plus 40 degs., so that the extreme
unfavourable report
inspection elicited a
morehitherto received ; evide from the , severity of the winter is over ; in fact, to the
surgeon than I have
of l
andp- present time, April 5, the temperature daily mounte in
the Yenerel. t
of debility among. Is '1 y them, l6 the shade above zero, which, acsording toy sat expo-
toms
decided scorbutic tendency, plainly having a
in ballasting i the effect , rience is exceedingly mild, and may be considered indi-
of the late heavy labour _ and watering ; but ' cative o an early break up of the ice. God grant such
as all our work is now on board, their gradual t i to
re urn to i may be the case. On the 15th it is my intention .
perfect health may be anticipated
without encumbering start the parties destined to make their way to England,
the sick list. On the Bth of July, Sergeant condition, I have but little
Woon, of and from our good sanitary
the marines,
while in pursuit of under
a wounded deer, unex- doubt all will safely arrive. A fatigue party,
pectedly met a couple of musk bullswhich t second master, will accom-
i he succeeded ' the command of Mr. Court second
in killing, evincing the most days, while John
soldierlike coolness and pan Lieutenant Haswell for a few
intrepidity during the e • trustworthy and
entire transaction ; having ex- Calder, captain of the forecastle, a trustw
pegged his ammunitiond with Lieutenant Cress-
as one of the wounded and in- zealous etty officer, will proceed
and from the
furiated monsters rushed Royal Islands,
towards •
him, he fired his worm well as far as the Princess y
es of potatoes and
when at a few yards, but s,
on the sledge,
continued his advance chocolate as can be brought
evident]
had reached
y, however, weak from as much
give an ample allowance of
loss of blood, till he had reached within six feet, when which extra supply. will.
the event of being detained
putting his head
to the round previous to his final rush, those excellent articles in
• ter• To this period we hay
the Sergeant, as his last fired his iron here d • the ensuing win .
resource, ramrod, during

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