The Sun.
London, England, 1854-10-08 00:00:00

LONDON, SUN DAY EVENING, OCTOBER 8, 1854.

THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION.

The following. despatches have been received at the
Admiralty : •

PROCEEDINGS OF CAPTAIN INGLEFIELD, OF HER
MAJESTY'S STEAM-VESSEL PIEENIX.

(Letter from Captain Inglefield, reporting his proceed.

ings and arrival at Cork.)
" Her Majesty's steam-ship Phenix,
at Cork, Sept. 28.

" Sir,—My letter of the sth of July, forwarded by the
Diligence from Disco, and of the 12th of July, sent home
by a Danish vessel, will have fully informed their lordships
of my proceedings up to that date. I have now, therefore,
to report what measures I have taken for the further ful-
filment of the instructions under which I sailed.
"On the 12th of July, the wind having moderated, we
got under way from Four Island Point, with the Talbot in
tow, and, passing some heavy bergs, steered away to the
northward. The following morning, having a fair wind,
I cast off the Talbot and proceeded to Poven under sail
and steam for the purpose of obtaining dogs ; and having
purchased five, joined the Talbot of; Upernavik at 6.30
p.m. Here I landed to communicate with the Governor
concerning an Esquimaux driver and a fhrther supply of
dogs, but ere I could return to the ship a strong breeze
from the south Ward had sprung up, and I found it neces-
sary to seek an anchorage for the Phoenix, ordering the
Talbot to keep under weigh for the night. In the morning,
the breeze still continuing, and observing the tender crip-
pled, I went out to her, and learnt that she had fallen foul
of an iceberg, and carried away a quarter-boat, anchor
stock, starboard cathead, and maintop-gallantmast ; an-
choring her, however, astern of the Phoenix; her damages
were shortly repaired.
" Strong southerly winds detained us at this anchorage
till the 21st inst., during which time I made a complete
survey of the harbour and islands in the neighbourhood, a
tracing of which I enclose.
" I learnt from the Governor of Upernavik that 11
whalers which had been seen to go north passed south a
few days back, having failed in making a passage through
Melville Bay.
" On the 21st inst., the wind having drawn round to
the eastward, I determined on making the attempt to get
through Melville Bay. Accordingly, we reached Cape
Shakleton on the morning of the 22d, and, passing a small
island covered with ducks, I landed with Captain Jeniins
and Mr. Elliott, and in three hours we killed 77 and ob-
tained a boatload of eggs. At noon the boats of both ships
were despatched to the Loom Rookery, and by three o'clock
they had returned, and 558 looms were added to our stock
of fresh provisions. Of this supply, 300 birds and 60 dozen
of eggs were set aside for the use of the Arctic squadron.
Before the evening the Duck Islands were sighted, and at
9.30 p.m., though surroundered with loose ice, we suc-
ceeded in getting near enough for the ice-master and
myself to land upon the largest of the group, and from
the top of it no water was to be seen to the north-
ward or westward. Mr. Manson observed that, during
47 voyages to this country he had always found, at a
much earlier date, 40 miles of water off these islands,
and never before seen so much ice at this point. He
stated that he believed it would be impossible to make the
passage of Melville Bay this season, and advised my
relinquishing the attempt, and at once proceeding up the
west coast. During the time we were on shore the ice
had closed so rapidly round the vessels that it was with
some difficulty we regained the ship, having to drag the
punt in which we landed over several floe pieces, which
wore coining up with the southerly breeze, and which
threatened to beset our vessels. We now pushed to the
southward, and on the 25th we entered the Waigattel. In
the afternoon we passed a dangerous rock about the
middle of the Straits, abreast of Noursoak, six feet above
water, and which•was not marked in the' charts, nor had
it been previously observed. I sounded round it, and
fixed its position as nearly as the imperfect outline of the
coast would admit.. _ .

" A strong southerly wind springing up, and being un-
able to steam against it, we bore up to seek shelter in a
bight that we observed a little to the northward of Nom-
soak, and finding good anchorage came to under the lee of
a point marked in Rink's chart at Makkau's Elven. The
whole of the 26th we were detained here with strong south-
erly winds ; but on 27th, at noon, the weather mode-
rating, we weighed, but owing to the difficulty in casting
with the Talbot in tow among ice, with a very long swell,
that vessel struck the bottom twice ere we succeeded in
getting out of the bay.
" On the 29th, at 3.30 a.m., we anchored in four fathoms
off the coal mine I discovered ou the Bth July, and imme-
diately commenced digging out. By 8 a.m. of the following
morning we had shipped about 70 tons, when a swell setting
in, with fresh breeze from the south ward, we were forced
to weigh, and the wind continuing to freshen, we bore up
for the anchorage I had remarked from the top of Atane-
kerdluk. Ere we succeeded in gaining this point the wind
had freshened to a gale, and on rounding the little peninsula
which formed the harbour, it blew so strong that we were
unable to steam to windward at full power with Talbot in
tow, and tho wind taking the ship on her starboard bow
drove her towards a bluff point, which formed the northern
shore of the little bay. The tender was cast off, and both
anchors of each ship were let go, but with 60 fathoms of
chain they failed to reach the bottom, and nothing but a
small iceberg, which providentially lay against the shore,
saved both vessels from being stranded. We, however,
fell broadside on to the berg, and a hawser was passed
round all, while we steamed ahead to keep tho ships on the
weather side of it. Towards the evening, the wind mo-
derating, we succeeded in getting the Phcenix into a good
berth, where she lay securely for the night, and the
following morning towed the Talbot out of her dangerous
position.
" We now proceeded to the southward, and at 5.30 a.m.
on the let of August, being abreast of Lively, I landed to
deposit a letter with the Governor, forwarding to you a
statement of our proceedings up to that date. At seven
o'clock we proceeded to the westward under sail and steam,
and on the 3d, 1 p.m., sighted Cape Broughton, and five
whalers. Communicating with the Jane, of Bo'ness, and
delivering their mails, Captain Walker informed me that
a barrier of ice was fixed against the west shore, and
that he doubted our being able to get near the land. On
parting company we, however, stood towards the coast to
assure ourselves that no passage existed, and the ice-
master and myself being satisfied of its impracticability, I
determined upon at once taking the pack in the latitude of
71 or 72, and endeavouring to force a passage through.
We therefore shaped a course again for Lively, which we
reached a little after midnight on the 6th, and imme-
diately commenced coaling. By 9 a.m. of the following
day we had filled the bunkers, and taken a deck-lose,
completing 270 tons. At 9.30 we steamed out with the
Talbot in tow, and on the 9th took the pack, abreast of
Upernavik.
"For 10 days we plished on through heavy ice, blasting,
boring, charging the nips, and making but slow advance—
the bay ice forming strong every night, much retarding our
progress ; and on the 17th we were closely beset at the
edge of a large floe some miles in extent ; luckily, a strong
gale from the westward broke up the edges of this floe,
and, on the weather moderating, slacked the ice sufficiently
to admit of our pushing through, and on the 19th we were
fortunate enough to get into the west water. Deeming it
beneficial for the service upon which I was empioyed' and
acting under the discretionary orders with which their
lordships have been pleased to supply me, I determined
upon examining the depot near Wollaston slands deposited
by the North Star in 1850 ; for that purpose I made the
south shore of Lancaster Sound, and on the 21st, about
8.30 p.m., we passed near to Cape Hay to observe the coals
deposited there in 1819 by Captain Parker, of the True-
love, for Lady Franklin. Observing that the staff and
two casks. containing letters and provisions wore missing, I
landed and found that no trace remained of these bat a
portion of the head of one of them, and some broken pre-
served meat tins. The coals, too, had been either carried
away by the Esquimaux, or the ice, there being only 21
bags. A little after ten, we rounded Cape Castlereagh,
and shortly found the remains of the North Star's depot.
Anchoring in five fathoms, we lashed the Talbot alongside,
and on landing I found that this spot had also been visited
by the Esquimaux, and not only plundered of all that was
useful to them as savages, but that degree of reckless wan-
tonness was exhibited (in the destruction of every. article
that remained), so peculiar to the habits of the uncivilised
tribes of man. Of the 608 casks and cases that were landed
by Mr. Saunders, only 114 remained, and each had been
stove to examine their contents, which consisted of flour,
peas, Scotch barley, oatmeal, and tobacco. Finding the
flour only partially destroyed in each cask, I determined
on embarking all that still remained, and the whole was
shipped off to the Phcenix, with 10 tons of patent fuel, and
which latter I did not hesitate to embark, as Sir Edward
Belcher had sent a vessel two years before to examine this
depot, and directed her commander to take the whole of
the coal from the neighbouring point.
"Each cask of flour I found contained a certain portion
of undamaged contents, and I trust their lordships will ap-
prove the measures I have taken to secure the remaining
service,portion oafn
dt hti
os valuable depot
obtainthe for
more
the
ina puosre oft
a n th
information
f
oMajesty'srmati
o n
for the guidance of those who might otherwise be misled
ex
etthienzwciadceillye,cairtcisTulaavytedßcaoiarrndrlencolertd;
depot
tseotf fporrotyhisaisonane
exifor 100 men for 12 months.
" In six hours from the time we anchored the ships were
again under way, and, standing across the sound, we reached
Cape Warrender in the evening of the same day, where I
landed for the purpose of examining the cairn I erected
here last year. Returning on board, I found a strong wes-
terly breeze with ebb tide, which prevented our making much
headway, and accordingly we returned to seek an anchor-
age for the night in Dundas Harbour. Unfortunately when
picking up a berth, we struck soundings in 15 fathoms and
immediately after three, when both ships grounded on a
mud. bank, and the tide falling, every exertion to get the
Phenix afloat pi oved ucelusz, though the. Talbot war ~horti~
warped oil into deep water, where, both her bower anchor,.
being let go, the chain of the small one passed into the Pine-
nix's quarter hawse-hole and a heavy drain brought upon it
At three the following morning the strong breeze broke the
ice away from the head of the bay, and, driving out, took the
rjacenix het outroard bz_o4loo Rd 10 Ilex over on her

beam ends, forcing her still further on shore, and tearing off
the whole of the false keel. The Talbot, though pushed
again upon the bank, escaped any damage from,the ice, be-
ing sheltered by this vessel, which was to the windward of
her. The day flood proving only a half-tide, we remained
immovably fixed until the evening, by which time all the
boats of both vessels had been ladn with heavy stores to
lighten this vessel, and I am happy to say that about 11
p.m. both ships floated off into deep water with no other
damage than I have stated.

The followiLg morning, the wind having moderately
we steamed out with the Talbot in tow, and having ob-
tained dogs from the Esquimatix (encamped near this spot)
stood towards Beechey Island, which wo reached (with a
slight detention of a few hours at Rigby Bay) by 1 p.m. of
the ?Gth.

"The North Star was observed through the fog, standing
off and on, and shortly an officer boarding us, acquainted
me that the wholo of the officers and crews of the Investi-
gator, Resolute, Intrepid, Assistance, and Pioneer were on
board that ship, the first three having been abandoned by
Sir Edward Belcher's order, in May last, and Sir Edward
himself with. his own party having just deserted the As-
sistance and the Pioneer about 50 miles from Beechey
Island .

"Having delivered to Sir Edward Belcher the de-
spatches, &c., with which I was charged, I have followed
his instructions for my further guidance, and therefore
have only to state, as having;especial reference to the vessel
under my command, that a slight accident to the screw
shaft occurred on the Ist of September, owing to the key
of the coupling block working slack. In a few hours the
shaft was re-secured, and no inconvenience has been ex-
perienced from a very slight deflection in the line of axes.
—I am, Sir, your most obedient-humble servant,
"E. A. INGLEFIELD, Cap!ain Commanding
Arctic Relief Expedition.
"To the Secretary of the Admiralty."

Letter from Sir Edward Belcher, detailing his visit to
Jones's, Sound, and further proceedings to the 10th of
September, 1853, when the Assistance was frozen in,
near Cape Osborn, in the Wellington Channel :
" Her Majesty's ship Assistance, August 8,
Wellington Channel.

"Sir,—The hurried and unexpected visit of Commander
Pullen afforded me little time to enter into an account of
the proceedings of this season as fully as I could wish. But
I will now endeavour to complete what may yet be required,
in order that the extent of our research may be properly
estimated. _

--"SinceCommander Pullen quitted we have been nearly
locked up in the pack, having at this date gained but 10
miles (since the 26th of July), but this has afforded me
time to put my work on paper, and I am now enabled to
forward a fair tracing of the north-eastern discoveries.
"On the 2d of May the N.E. division, as explained in
my former letter of that final date, left the ship, and with-
out difficulty reached our old discoveries of last season in
five days.
"Our first object seen from the depot, placed here on the
27th of April, was an island nearly in connection with the
land, about nine miles E.S.E.
"Towards this we pushed, but found the ice treacherous,
swamping the sledge, and placing me for a few moments in
an uncomfortable bath. By this we lost nearly 96 lbs. of
bread, one of the most important items of our provision.
"On the Bth we landed, and took possession of the
island, giving it the name, as the first of our discoveries
this season, Princess Royal.
" Our course still ran to the E.S.E., as I fondly hoped
for the entrance of Jones's Strait. The next important
and commanding station I landed at and took possession
of as Mount Parker, in compliment to Rear-Admiral Hyde
Parker.
" The outer coastline hero runs off so unevenly in the
sea that, until the thaws commence, one scarcely knows
when he stands over land or water, and they rise so gra-
dual that we found ourselves from 50 or 60 feet, in thick
weather, above the sea level, before we discovered our
error. Fortunately it lay in our direct route, and the
result was simply a down-hill run.
" On the 14th wo reached a most remarkable cape at the
entrance of a considerable inlet, which I ,fully expected
was to load into Jones's Strait, all the geographical fea-
tures, the course, everything seemed to promise it. But
the summit exhibited to us a south and western direction,
and without sufficient indueetnent to diverge for the chance
of an eastern lead.
" As the commissariat sledge Enterprise had now reached
her limit, the Londesborough and Dauntless were com-
pleted to 40 days each, and Mr. Allard returned to the
ship to meet us again with further supplies, on the Ist of
July at Princess Royal Island, preparatory to further exa-
mination at North Cornwall.
"This position received the temporary name of Cape
Separation. I intend Cape Disraeli for it.
The sight which I obtained from this cape, elevated
680 feet above the sea, led me to hope for better success
duo east. On that course we proceeded three days on a
smooth floe (making 36 miles), when we reached on the
18th the entrance of a splendid channel. Fog for some
time worried us with indistinct glimpses of the approaches,
but as it now cleared off and the sun enlivened the scene,
we were regaled with such a magnificent view of successive
beetling woodlands on either side of the channel, and ex-
tending for about 20 miles, that it really became a puzzling
matter to find names for them. Of one thing I felt convinced,
viz., that we were now really in Jones's Channel, and that by
nothing but bad taste in nature could we be deceived. The
latitude, the direction, the limit in longitude to which we
could see, only required an extension of 60 miles to lead
to the cairn erected by Captain Austin's party. Who
would dream of failure on the 18th of May ? The rough-
ness of the frozen pack now compelled us to take to the
land, and we advanced easily five or six miles, when a fur-
ther stop to our progress was opposed in the shape of an
abrupt glacier, half a gale of wind, and the mortifying dis-
covery that its base was washed by the sea, and the off-
lying pack rotten and tumbling asunder.
" Not easily daunted, it was determined to try an over-
land route, and avoid this unfortunate hole, as we then
thought it.
" Provisions, &e., were strapped on, and we soon started
to view what we had to contend with before deciding on
our ultimate mode of action.
"The hills continued increasing in height as we ad-
vanced until they reached 1,500 feet. Wo then descended
and took up another position at nearly the same height as
the last bluff, when we encamped for the night.
" All our hopes were crushed ; between us and the dis-
tant bluff the open sea prevailed on the 20th of May ! The
horizon was streaked with open sailing ice,' and all com-
munication cut off for sledges. The bluff, distant 16 miles,
was clearly the turning point into Jones's Channel; no
laud was visible beyond it.
" To the north of us lay the new laud of Kent (named
after his late Royal Highness the Duke,) and far to the
westward a new chain, hereafter to be examined.
" Fortunately, our weather was beautifully clear, and
we not only saw all the distant objects, but obtained the
requisite observations for planting them in their proper
places.
" The rotten ice off Cape Derby now recurring to us,
the nature of that also off Cape Disraeli made me anxious
to recover our boat (left in depot), in case 'we should per-
chance be cut off from retreat ; we therefore retraced our
steps, and reached Cape Disraeli on the 26th. As we were
now on the terra firma of our quarters, I determined on
making a last effort for some clue to a lead towards Jones's
Sound by this channel.
" Our progress was tantalising, and attended with deep
interest and excitement. In the first place, I discovered,
on the brow of a mountain about 800 feet above the sea,
what appeared to be a recent and a very workmanlike
structure of a dome (or rather a double cone, or icehouse),
built of very heavy and tabular slabs, which no single per-
son could carry. It consisted of about 40 courses, eight
feet in diameter, and eight feet in depth, when cleared, but
only five in height from the base of the upper cone, as we
opened it.
"Most carefully was every stone removed, every atom
of moss or earth scrutinised, the stones at the bottom also
taken up, but without a trace of any record, or of having
been used by any
snow, but did not in any respect bear the appearance of
human being. It was filled by drift
of having been built more than a season. This was named
Mount Discovery.'
" Our anxiety certainly was not abated. As we moved
southerly, with every appearance of a cu/ de sac, the chan-
nels opened suddenly in a fresh direction, until at last,
having reached the bottom of a lake or bay, we found that
any further progress must be confined to frozen streams or
ravines, which connected with a series of great lakes
leading into another sea.
" Leaving our crew, pretty well fatigued, to pitch the
tent and prepare the customary pemmican meal,
I ascended
the mountain above us, and discovered that we really were
not far from our old position last year on Cape Hogarth,
and had Cape Maj
about 20 miles. endie and Hamilton Island to the west,
" My surprise, however, was checked suddenly by two
structures rather in European forum, and apparently graves ;
each was similarly constructed, and like the dome, of large
selected slabs, having at each end three separate stones,
laid as we should place head and feet stones. So thoroughly
satisfied was I that there was no delusion, that I desisted
from disturbing a stone until it should be formally done
by the party assembled.
" The evening following (for where the sun is so oppres-
sive to the eye by day, we travel by night) we ascended the
hill and removed the stones. Not a trace of human be-
ings !

"If this had been a cache and the carcase removed, I
cannot understand why the stones should have been so
carefully and systematically replaced. Eventually, on
digging to the hard quarry, front which the cache had been
clearly formed, by art, we discovered a quantity of minute
black dust, which, on examination by a powerful lens, I
found to be the chrysalis shells of minute flies which pos-
sibly had been generated by the remains of meal left here
at a former date.

" At various places we had found apparent marks, and 1,
had fancied that some of the explorers from the North Star
had sought Jones's Strait by this channel, but invariably
every such mark had been placed where it could not serve
the purpose of a geographical pile. One in particular,
found by Mr. Grove, on Pitch Mount, which he kept un-
touched until I examined it, was so methodically con-
structed of five stones, that on the disturbance of any one
the others would tumble, and yet if Esquimaux were con-
cerned in its original structure, how many years had it
stood? My own opinion is strongly in favour of a late
visit or within the last ten years.
" Quitting this position (halt of our party having already
erected marks in advance, and assured us of very easy
travel) we proceeded the next day to examine the outer
headland, commanding a full view of Wellington Chan-
nel. We reached our position before 10.30, and had a
good view of the objects within the Strait as far as Cape
Majendie on the west, Dundas and Hamilton Islamd
southerly, and Cape Hogs.rth easterly--,including the Bay
of Prince Alfred, which we were compelled to diminish
very largely. From our position it certainly appeared
deep, but vihen the angles were laid down on paper the
delusion vanished.

" From this position I discerned our cairn of last sea-
son, as well as the very remarkable ono placed b y nature
immediately behind it. It appears very strange that the
persons who searched that coast so narrowly, and who, I
am inormed, scouted the idea of further examination by
Mr. Nl`Cortnick, of the North Star, should have missed a
lauduia.rk, which caused sue to cast oil the etepaher and ge
in with her to examine it. Further, that Mr. M'Cormick,
who states that he visited Point Hogarth, saw neither it
nor our beacon ! It almost makes one doubt that the
search nude by ourselves MAT not have tef some mark

unexamined, although in my own particular route I fear
that I too offt3n led the way to `disappointment cairns.'
" We now commenced our return, ascending the moun-
tain, where Mr. Grove, as before stated, found an insigni-
ficant pile, truly, but still important, as formed by art.
Our ascent of this bill was for the purpose of insuring the
connection of our work with Cape Hogarth, and as it was
much stained by black water, and gave out, as they moved
the stones, a very strong odour of naphtha, I named it
Pitch Matint.' The Acme proved to be swinestone, which,
when broken or roughly handled, gives out this unpleasant
odour.
We reached Cape Disraeli on the 3d, and Princess
R )yal Island on the 6th, whore we were welcomed by Dr.
Lyall and Mr. Allard, and received the missing des-
patches' which Lieutenant Cheyne found on his second at-
tempt, accompanied by Dr. Lyall. They turned out, how-
ever, to be merely the official communications of Com-
mander Pullen.
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" flaying recovered our iceboat, and having satisfied
myself from the hill stations that the floe was still firm to
the N.N.E., preparation was made for examining the
group seen from the hills above Jones's Strait.
" We could now dispense with our sledge, which was
sent back by the Dauntless and the Enterprise, charged
with the duty of forming fresh back depots from the su-
perfluous provisions, now no longer required. The Lady
Franklin, Dr. Lyall's sledge, was retained to accompany
and aid us, in case of accident or failure, in being able to
drag the boat laden with provisions.
" Taking leave of our late comrades, we again brokeinto
the floe on a new and yet interesting excursion.
" It occurred to me that, under any circumstances,
either as regarded Sir J. Franklin, Capt. Collinson, or Com-
mander M'Clure, that if any of them entered the Polar Sea
here on the range of these northern islands, with compa-
ratively open water for perhaps 100 miles, they might drift
to and fro for years, or uatil they experienced one of those
northern nips which would form a mount above them in a
very few seconds. The more of the action I have seen of
the ice, the partially open water, and the deceitful leads
into 'the pools,' the more satisfied I am that the man who
once ventures ' off the land' to seek a passage is, in all pro-
bability, sacrificed. He may desert his vessel, and, by
hard travel, succeed in gaining some place of rendezvous,
under the present dispositions effected by Captain Kellett
as well as myself, but there is no calculating as yet that
our exertions, before the cruise be complete, may not be
directed to a similar object.
" 'Under any circumstances, however, every portion of
the country, the prominent headlands, or rising mounds of
the marshy grounds, is so completely marked by our cairns,
that whoever may reach them will readily understand,
even if the date alone should remain, in what direction, if
he has called at two, ho ought to proceed. But full in-
structions will probably be found untouched by animals.
" Our journey was much heavier than I anticipated,
and, without the aid of the second sledge crew, our advance
would have boon impossible ; on the second day, however,
we reached the smooth floe, and on the fourth, shortly
after midnight, or four and a half days, had landed on a
new portion of her Majesty's territories.
"To this island, the southernmost of a most extensive
archipelago, leading to the N.E., or possibly to the Pole, I
gave the name of Buckingham Island, and the group Tbo
Victoria Archipelago.' To separate, survey, or make any
further examination at present, with a view to name them,
was quite out of the question. The heavy, even solid state
of the floe surrounding, or where ' nipped,' the almost
berg-like lumps which protruded, afforded a fair inference
that the sea is seldom seriously disturbed in these lati-
tudes.

" Ou the other hand, if we take into consideration the
exaviae of whales and other animals, found at every eleva-
tion, even to the summits of hills above 800 feet, the extra-
traordinary wear and abrasion of the outlines, which no-
thing we have experienced confd effect ; it almost loads
one to imagine that nature at one time, and fatally, per-
haps, for those we seek, has piled up layer over layer,
effecting what otherwise nothing but a recent deluge could
account for.
" The visit to this island leads to remarks of this na-
ture particularly.
" On ascending the high ground the sun had not yet
affected the frozen crust, or denuded it completely of snow.
Anxious to save every moment of the fine season, I deter-
mined on waiting up there for the latitude and other ob-
servations, the party sending two hands in succession to
relieve each other. The remainder went to their bays to
sleep.
" Before noon the temperature became oppressive, not-
withstanding the thermometer in the shade was at 35 deg.
The black earth soon became sticky, and before 2 p.m. the
island might be declared in a semi-fluid state !
" This is only one out of many cases of the sort which at
certain moments render the passage across the ravines dif-
ficult, if not dangerous.
" Having completed our work here, and by a different
course over the floe obtained a better road, and convenient
stations for fixing some of these islands, we reached Prin-
cess Royal Island on the 16th of June; weather sharp and
snowing, and objects mostly obscured. For the first time
this day we noticed three musk oxen, on the side of an
inland range ; five deer were subsequently seen, but no
single human being could subsist himself by the aid of his
gun throughout one whole range, and, as to a party of five
or seven men, it is impossible.
"By extraordinary good fortune, bears might fall in
the way of the traveller; but having killed and eaten his
proportion, I much doubt if his strength would ensile
him to drag the remains until another piece of similar good
fortune befel him. The assertion, therefore, of any teem-
ing or abundance of animal life in this north-eastern dis-
trict is utterly untenable.
"The remainder of our journey being merely the return
over known ground by our previous discovery last season,
requires no comment beyond this : that the opening and
open water now interposing between us and North Corn-
wall and rendering it unsafe for sledge as well as boat, all
hopes of further examination this season were at an end.
On my return I met with Lieut. Cheyno, who was the
bearer of intelligence forwarded by Commander Richards,
of the safety of the crew of her Majesty's ship Investiga-
tor, and that the vessel was icebound in a port of Banks's
Land, to which Commander M'Clure had given the name
of Baring Island.
" Commander Richards upon meeting with the officer
sent by Capt. Kellett, by arrangement, to seek for my de-
spatches at the appointed rendezvous, learned that Com-
mander M'Clintock was on the same route as himself in
the Queen's Channel. As there was little use expending
further labour and provisions where one had already gone,
he very wisely determined on passing overland to the Re-
solute and obtaining full particulars, as well to complete
on his return the search of the Byam Martin Channel com-
munication with the Polar Sea, which it was intended
that the officer sent for despatches should complete. Ho,
however, came overland, and by the Liddon Gulf.
" On my return to the ship on the 22d of June, I found
the ice occasionally in motion, but the reports of open
water without anything like risk to the vessel quite out of
the question.
" Every exertion was immediately made to get the stores
embarked, the ship ready for sea, and the canal for our
exit in readiness when an opportunity might offer for mov-
ing easterly.
" Oa the 6th of July, considering that Commander Rich-
ards might not be quite in a condition to handle a heavy
whaleboat in addition to one of the light iceboats, I de-
spatched the master to seek him. Fortunately he reached
just at the instant his aid was opportune, and our canal
being complete to the open water on the 12th of July, I
had the satisfaction of receiving and shaking by the hand,
at its mouth, my worthy second, Commander Richards,
charged with the duplicate despatches, which i have already
directed Commander Pullen to forward, should any unfore-
seen difficulty prevent the ship or myself from reaching
Beachey Island this season or before the Ist of September,
before which date I shall endeavour, if unable to pass fur-
ther in the ship, to despatch a light boat or two with the
invalids and nay final reports.
" On the 14th of July, as by my previous letter the As-
sistance left her winter quarters, leaving behind en cache,
under a beacon constructed on Mount Beaufort, the rations
as per inclosed report.
" Lieutenant Osborn rejoined about midnight among the
ice which first blocked us. tWo then moved forward,
reaching the entrance of Sir Robert Inglis Bay on the 17th,
and on the 26th another opening enabled us to pass about
five miles to the eastward of Cape Beechey. .
" I had sent a boat to examine that cairn for further
accounts (as intimated) from Commander Pullen, and ' to
bring away my despatches if no one had yet taken them.
About noon we perceived as we passed the low point that
both packages (in kegs) were dug up, and nearly at the
same time discovered a boat pulling up from Dunbar
Island for the ship.
" Shortly after I had the pleasure of congratulating Com-
mander Pullen on his arrival to seek these despatches.
He was the bearer of much additional interesting matter
relative to the investigator, a few of whose officers and
mon had safely reached the North Star.
"Fully aware of the anxiety, next to the fate of the
Erebus and Terror, respecting the Investigator and the
North Star, having two medical officers as well as ample
accommodation for the crew of the Investigator, I directed
Commander Pullen, on the arrival of the commander and
crew, whom I trust Captain Kellett will forward without
awaiting the chances of his own extrication, to proceed at
once to Lugland (waiting until the Ist of September for
invalids, Ste., and further despatches), and report his
arrival to their lordships' secretary.
", I have felt so confident of getting to Beechoy Island,
either in the ship or in one of the boats to superintend the
movement, that I had almost detained Commander Pullen
for this easier mode of travel. But after the springs on
the 19th or 20th, I shall give up all hope of catching him
with the ship. Still, however, I trust that I may be so
much nearer that I may communicate and send four men
whose lives would be jeopardised by another winter.
oßsiatiiloien
Ha-
miltonfr
e
inagndp
q u‘e‘ luyr,
Islands where they should be as well as Cape
hastendetention
eodv emr
ethis
pgl raoc tie nDd ,nsnhdiaf ts
13eechey and Cape Majendie. But as far as geography or
navigation is concerned, I am not inclined to suspect that
any human beings will, from choice, attempt to revisit a
portion of the earth's surface so utterly barren and void of
interest in animal, vegetable, or mineral productions.
The picture which Captain Kellett may draw of Melville
Island would be a paradise to this. Thus far I had written
on the 17th August, when a lane opening to the northward
I immediately took advantage of it and secured a fair
berth to what I thought would insure a fair lead' should
the spring tides of the 18th set the ice in motion.
" Our position was now becoming critical. I had only
one safe alternative known to me, and that was the shel-
ter of Sir Robert Inglis Bay. Failing in that, I must,
if the ice did not yield this season, winter in the peak,
and make my mind up to the buffeting which betel the
American vessels, or reach the inshore floe and hold on all
we had gained.
"Our present prospect—the season last year, at this
date, left little hope of release to many minds here—l
thought differently, and had made up my mind not to give
up hopes of escape until after the first week of October,
perhaps later.
" The selection of my berth was fortunate. Before mid-
night. the wind having chopped to the eastward, and bare-
ineter rapidly, a gale was expected. The mercury
fell to 29.37, lower than we have before experienced it,
and blew a strong gale.
our water
rapidly shoaling from 37 to 11 fathoms, and
as the snow-
;, storms intexceitted diecovered to To the dm neighbour-
_
" The entire ice was in rapid motion westerly,

Z

/ ` /

[PRICE SD.

hood of the northern heights near Cape Majendie, into the
bight of which the great floe was wheeling us with unplea-
sant rapidity.
" Our only chance was that the ice might carry us
through the Channel between Cape Beechey and Dundas
Island, or that it might be arrested before reaching it.
"Providentially, the latter suddenly' occurred, the ship
being then in eight fathoms, within half a mile of
a low spit, which had long interested me as promising a
refuge,if water enough could be found behind it or up to it.
"'The great danger now threatening us was, that the
impetus of arresting the ice to leeward would bring upon
us the weather floe, entailing inevitable destruction to
both vessels, although our preparations for preserving the
crow were probabiy complete. Another providential relief
aguin occurred. The weather ice was arrested by a low
point to windward ; the ship became stationary. Weather
improved, permitting a. boat to sound up to the low point
alludbd to, where 11 fcthouas were found. Sail made on
the vessels, and in a few minutes both vessels were within
100 yards of the low point, .and secured to the land ice in
11 fathoms.

" To this magnificent and .secure harbour I have given
the name of Fort Refuge. Hor.e, if necessary, we could
safely and satisfactorily winter, more securely even than
in Northumberland Sound.
"Our escape from ourposition of the 16th and 17th now
appeared even as wonderful as our lake delivery. Had the
vessels remained there, with the charnel between Dandas
and Baillie Hamilton Islands open, our fate would pro-
bably have been sealed ;at least that of the vessels. All
open water in that direction had beea sealed up, and by a
force which was irresistible.
"Our detention here, althotigh attended bYgreat al :ty,
was one to whieh, we could cheerfully submit, even if qis
com-
pelled to Winter. Bat my excwrsions along the coast about
10 miles easterly revealed to me about 15 miles open water
up to Point Hogarth, and southerly from thence as far as
the eye could reach. The water, however, in shore, where
`leads' offered, did not admit of our passing.
"Hope had, I believe, deserted most of our crew, and
they had made up their minds fully to winter here.
" Thus far had we dissipated the month of August. I
felt as the bay ice now began to present a very formidable
barrier to our escape, that, with certain open patches which
I had noticed, unless I made up my mind to winter so dis-
tant from Beechey Island, that a great effort must be made
to take the outer ice at once. I instantly decided on active
measures, cut and blasted it out four hours, and shortly
after noon, on the 31st of August, after very laborious
work, the Pioneer was towing this ship slowly through the
lanes which occasionally offered close along the land. We
effected about three miles before 10 p.m., and hung on for
change of current or tide. It ran 15 hours to the west-
ward, changing at 3 a.m. on the Ist of September, when I
ordered the ship to be made fast to the beet (tug floes), and
to be drifted with it until the ice again eased.
" About 8 a.m. on the Ist, the Pioneer again took us in
tow ; by noon I saw enough to satisfy me that I should be
free for all canvas, and shortly After noon both vessels were
again nearly untrammelled on their proper element under
all sail. Our prospects were indeed so flattering, with a
speed of seven knots, having cast off the Pioneer, that we
were calculating on the moment of arrival at Beechy
Island, just in time to save the North Star from departure
with our despatches.
" At eight our hopes were cut short by the ice closing on
CApe Osborn, and at 9.30 we were secured in 17 fathoms,
about three miles off shore ; but before the Pioneer could
reach our comfortable position, nearly a mile of ice filled
in between us, depriving us of the advantage of her power
should the water suddenly offer us escape,
" This brings me to remark that the utmost power should
in this service be available if required. The diminished
power is at command, and the requisite consumption of
fuel readily adapted. But I feel satisfied that on several
occasions this ship would have made much more satisfac-
tory progress on the double consumption of fuel, and even-
tually have saved considerably. Indeed, it is the opinion,
I believe, of all that the increased power would probably,
at a saving of 20 tons, have placed both vessels at this mo-
ment securely at Beechey Island.
"Our movements, until the Pioneer can effect a junc-
tion, must be reduced to the tardy operation of warping
as leads offer.

" On the 4th I despatched one watch to aid the Pioneer,
and with the other warped a considerable distance towards
Cape Osborn, until I reached a line of very heavy masses
of grounded glacier ice (probably detached from Cape
Osborn), in seven fathoms, and within which I had at first
intended to seek security.
" Whilst we were engaged in warping along them, ele-
vated about 25 feet above water, the ice quartermaster,
from the crow's neat, reported something like a coal bag
made fast by a line to one of the iu-shore blocks of ree,
and a uniform cap near it.' Our better glasses on deck
soon detected the black mass to be ono of Halkett's Indian-
rubber boats, and Mr. Grove, mate, was immediately de-
spatched with the dingy, which was hauled over a narrow
neck, to investigate the matter.•
"The object proved to be one of Halkett's boats, the bil-
bows of which lying on the ice was mistaken for a cap. A
tin case containing a chart, a tin pot, part of a tin cylinder
of Fortnum and Mason's glaze, lint, adhesive plaster, a box
of salve, a hank of new log line, evidences of a human being
having sojourned there, and by the book of time azimuths,
between the leaves of which were found two prayers, one in
print, the other in the baud-writing of Commander Pullen,
the chart also being his Arctic Admiralty chart, no doubt
remained as to whom the case referred. But further,
no clue has been obtained along the coast line, or up to
Cape Osborn, subsequently examined by Mr. Grove. The
opinion to be formed I must leave to be decided by the
officer who will be despatched with this to Beechoy-Island,
so soon as the weather permits of such a measure with se-
curity.
" The ship is now fast to heavy ice grounded in six
fathoms, within 100 yards bf the shore—safe I cannot`• say;
indeed no vessel can bca safe bound to make her escape at
all hazards this or any ensuing year, from the difficulties
which must be encountered in a length of coast line of
nearly 400 miles.
" At present, and so long as the ice holds together, both
vessels are safe, and if an easterly gale should succeed that
which has lately pressed us in from the west, it is probable
that a much nearer advance may be effected towards
Beechey Island. But, as we advance hence, dangers rather
increase than diminish, and our only remedy, if it should
offer, must be to seek an off• shore berth in 'the pack, and
trust to its drift down Wellington Channel, for the tides
have not for some time past been sufficiently active to
afford any hope from their influence.
" On the other band, should winter seal ua here, I feel
well satisfied, provided no further disruption of the ice
occurs, that we are again almost providentially cared for
by the advantages which we possess. Oar preservation,
freedom from sickness, accident, or other depressing cause
—our general suocess up to this moment—are matters
deeply impressed upon the minds of all. We cannot but
feel, even if disaster should now eventually befal our ves-
sels, that we have much to feel grateful for, and that
should the elements or the will of God place our vessels on
the land at any moment, that the means of security for our
lives at present, in this position, is within our reach.
" If Commander Pullen, or any of his parties, should
have moved northerly, in the hope of falling in with me,
and have passed unnoticed during our rapid progress down
here, I have deposited 10 days' provision (in security, two
iron-bound casks) for eight men for their relief on the shore
abreast of us.

" The tracings of our discoveries and other documents
will be forwarded by the conveyance to Boechey
where, I trust, Captain Kellett will have reached before
this. If the North Star should have quitted with the
officers and crew of the Investigator, and no vessel left,
which I cannot well understand—the intent of my orders
being that he was not to quit unless relieved by the
Intrepid—then the despatches, Sac., will be deposited in
the house constructed there, and we must trust to relief
next summer from England should we still remain
sealed here.

" If I should be reduced to the necessity of wintering
here, I shall remove all documents and valuable stores to
Beechey Island in the spring, establishing at secure inter-
vals convenient posts for deserting the ship, should orders
from their lordships or necessity render such a deplorable
termination of the voyage imperative. As such a step can
only be anticipated as a final measure, it must of necessity
be deplored until all hope is at an end, and the next sea-
son leaves me no alternative. But, before that period ar-
rives, I feel satisfied that such information will have
reached their lordships as will prevent such a decided step
emanating from me. It is true that verbal communications
left me without doubt as to the intentions of their lord-
ships, but I have no decided `orders.'
" On the other hand, should accident have befallen Com-
mander Pullen, I have enclosed duplicates, or rather tri-
plicates, of the despatches entrusted to him, and, of course,
the North Star will still be found at Beechey Island. Bnt
I sincerely trust that no misfortune has occurred. The offi-
cer entrusted with this despatch (Lieutenant Osborn, for I
cannot spare any officer from this ship), has been instructed
to complete any information upon the above most exciting
subject, and any further matter that may interest their
lordships and the country under the circumstances. Should
the Resolute fail in reaching the depot, or, what I still
more fear, should Captain Kellett have yielded to the wish
of Commander 11`Clure in staying by his ship for another
season, against every prospect of release (and, if anything
could have been effected, the last season alone could war-
rant hope of success), then I fear that a most distressing
difficulty will be added. The severity of last winter, the
extraordinary thickness of the ice which we have encoun-
tered, this (in many instances 12 to 18 feet in thickness)
loads me to imagine that the escape from Barrow's Strait
will be very.diffiult. But upon all these matters the final
report of Lieutenant Osborn will convey decisive grounds
for action should opportunity still remain for communi-
cating with England by the arrival of the Intrepid.
" I have delayed the departure of Lieutenant Osborn, in
order that he may be the bearer of the entire proceedings
up to the latest moment which may be important—the
tracings the eof ofsearch.
" It is needless almost for me to add, that the primary
object of our expedition has proved unsuccessful.
But I
trust that the safety of the Investigator's crew, ail_ lt-1.
sin-
cerely hope that the measures adopted by Captain Kellett,
if Captain Collinson did advance, and that also of
the En-
terprise—may furnish proof that our mission has not been
in vain.
" I must apologise for thehurried state in which
documents must appear ; but I have simply the
oex allcusmy
excuse
to
offer that I have laboured heavily to effect even the little
that does appear, and that I cannot well load the sledge-
boat, the Hamilton, with the weight of valuable documents
which are on board, and cannot be copied in time.
" Trusting that their lordships will feel satisfied that we
and feeling well satisfied that
havo as yet done our duty,
I havo those around me who will not be wanting when
'
further need demands their exertions —I have the honour
to be, sir, your most obedient servant,
" EDWARD BELCHER, Captain
"Commanding Arctic Squadron.
"3 miles N.E. of Cape Osborn, 500 yards
from shore, 6 fathoms, Sept. 10, 18532,

The suspension was announced yesterday afternoon of
Messrs. Allen and Anderson, the largest house in Lon-
don in the American grain and provision trade. They
were closely connected with Messrs. James M'Henry
and Co., of Liverpool, whose bills were returned on
Wednesday, and the event was therefore not unex-
pected. They were of old standing, and have enjoyed
high credit, so that their liabilities are likely to prove
very heavy. The amount has not yet been been stated,
but an opinion seems to prevail that it may be between
3QO,QQOi. and 400,0001.

~~

.'~~

NAVAL AND MILITARTINTELLIGENCE.

The Royal Albert is taking in her supply of coals from
the Columbine floating coal depot.
The Ganges, 84 guns, built at Bombay in 1821, of
2,285 tons, after the frame of the Canopus, was put out
of No. 2 dry dock at Sheerness yesterday. She is nearly
ready for the pendant - her fittings are to be completed
in the fitting basin, and she will be commissioned imme-
diately she is reported ready., She has undergone a
thorough repair.
The present orders for the Hannibal are, that she is to
leave Sheerness on Sunday.
The Miranda, 16, screw corvette, Captain Lyoas, was
undocked at Portsmouth last evening.
The Gladiator, 6, paddle frigate, Captain Broke,
hauled out of the steam basin at Portsmouth yesterday,
after a refit. She will leave for the Black Sea on the
10th.
The Gomelza transport left Spithead, for Corfu, last
evening.
Orders have been received at Devonport to fit the brig
Wizard with all despatch.
Job and task work is to be discontinued in Devonport
yard.
The bark Monsoon, C:tptain Turnbull, which sailed
from London on Tuesday with a large mail fcr New
Zealand, put into Plymouth Sound on Thursday after-
noon, and left for her destination yesterday evening.
Two entire floors of the exensive victualling stores at
Sheerness are being fitted up to receive the crews of
ships that are to winter in the fitting-basin. Commo-
dious berths are being fitted for the wardroom and the
gunroom officers, and the comforts of the sailors are not
forgotten.

APPOINTMENTS.
Lieutenants—Thomas P. Phillips (1854), from the
Nankin, 50, at Chatham, to the Excellent, gunnery stip
at Portsmouth ; William G. England (1854), to the
Nankin, vice Phillips.
Clerk's Assistant—Daniel It. Hamilton, to the Win-
chester, 50, flag-ship, on the East India station.

THE -SCREW PROPRLIMPu..
The Russell, 72 guns, built at Deptford in 1822, 1,7 h
tons, on the Surveyor of the Navy's design, was taken
into the fitting basin at Sheerness yesterday. • She is to
be docked, and converted into a screw line-of-battle
ship, to carry heavy metal on both her decks; her poop
is to be cut down, and her false keel to be taken off, in
order to ease her draught of water. She is ordered to
have her machinery in, and to be in every respect ready
for sea by the 3d of March next.
The Hawke, 72 guns, built at Woolwich in 1820, of
1,754 tons, on reduced lines of Christian VII., is or-
dered to be sent up from Sheerness to Chatham yard for
a similar purpose in every respect. She is also to be
ready for sea by the 3d of March next.

/.